YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY TRAVELS EUROPE AND THE EAST, EMBRACINGf OBSERVATIONS MADE DURING A TOUR THROUGH GREAT BRITAIN, IKELAND, FRANCE, BELGIUM, HOLtAND, PRUSSIA, SAXONY, BOHEMIA, AUSTRIA, BAVARIA, SWITZERLAND, LOM BARDY, TUSCANY, THE PAPAL STATES, THE NEAPOLITAN DOMINIONS, MALTA, THE ISLANDS OF THE ARCHIPELAGO, GREECE, EGYPT, ASIA MINOR, TURKEY, MOLDAVIA, WALLACHIA, AND HUNGARY, IN THE YEARS 1834, '35, '36, '37, '38, '39, '40, and '41. VALENTINE MOTT, M.D., PRESIDENT OF THE MEDICAL FACULTY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF NEW-YOHK, AND PROFESSOR OF SURGERY, &.C., dominion. Nor do the titled classes generally, I think, consume so large a portion of the fruits of human labour as in some other countries. Neither is their time passed in the usual voluptuous idleness of courts, but devoted to intellectual improveraent and practical attention to the wants of the people, with whose welfare they seem di rectly to sympathize. , It ought in justice to be stated also in honour of our Anglo-'Saxon kindred, that there is more rigid cultiva- FRANKFORT ON THE MEIN. 83 tion of the higher order, and more useful branches of mental pursuits to be met with in the courts of northern Europe, than elsewhere upon the Continent. There is one habit common to the countries of nor thern Europe, which, however loathsome and annoying to some, and however severely reprobated by others, is, it may be said, almost universal. I mean the use of to bacco ; which, though apparently everywhere most freely indulged in by all classes, and even by both sexes, was not, as it appeared to me, attended with those injurious results which the denunciations it has received in our own country would have led me to anticipate. If this " good creature" and " precious weed," as it was caUed when first brought into vogue by Sir Walter Raleigh, were so extremely deleterious as some would have us believe, it appears to me inconceivable how we should find the most vigorous constitutions and well- developed forms among those very people where it is so profusely employed, chiefly in the form of smoking. My impression with regard to the humid climate and locality of HoUand, and it accords with observation there, is, that its use is more or less prophylactic or pre ventive of the endemial fevers of low and marshy coun tries. The moderate use of this weed, we are inclined to think, may, under many circumstances, be not only harmless, if not also preventive and remedial. In France its consumption is certainly on the in crease, and in England we should judge that it is get ting more and more into vogue. It is not our intention to dUate upon this disputed question ; but our experi ence leads us to the conclusion that much more censure has been cast upon our American Virginia plant than it merits. In one very fatal and distressing form of disease, to wit. Laryngeal Phthisis, and Bronchitis among pub- 84 FRANKFORT ON THE MEIN. Uc speakers, the fact is very clearly established, that the moderate habit of smoking, by the drain it accomplishes and its anodyne qualities, has been eminently useful, at least as a preventive of that peculiar raalady so frequent in the northern part of the United States, especially among the clergy. SWITZERLAND. 86 SWITZERLAND. After leaving Germany I passed up the Rhine and visited Strasbourg, the birthplace of the immortal Cu- vier, that giant in every branch of science that touches upon animal organization, modern or antediluvian. From this en route we entered Switzerland by Schaff- hausen; and thence passing entirely through this won derfuUy romantic and unique country, visiting nearly all its interesting towns, lakes, mountains, and other objects of importance, we finally reached Geneva. Without entering into any particular notice of this city, so famous in history, I must be permitted, as a profes sional man, to caution all my countrymen who are threatened or affected with the least pulmonary disease, or predisposition to it, to avoid a residence even of a few weeks here, or in any part of Switzerland. This I do from observation during two visits to this capital. The remarkable and sudden changes of temperature to which persons are constantly exposed, during summer more particularly, by the cold winds from Mont Blanc and other mountains in the vicinity, covered with gla ciers and eternal snows, subject them to perpetual dan ger of an aggravation of their symptoms. The humid ity, also, which arises from the extensive surface of Lake Leman and its outlet, the commencement of the Rhone, make the city of Geneva more particularly, however fashionable and attractive a resort it may be for trav ellers, a most objectionable residence for pulmonary invalids. The melancholy instances of such persons which. 86 SWITZERLAND. have come under my observation, have fiilly demonstra ted this fact to my satisfaction ; and this was farther con firmed by my visits to the hospital, and my conversations with one of the most inteUigent physicians of that city. Dr. Lombard. In early autumn, in my last visit, I was forcibly struck with the large proportion of pulmonary affections which he showed me under his care in the hospital ; and in expressing my surprise, he remarked , that they always constituted also a large share of his practice among the inhabitants. I think I may venture to say that I have never met in any hospital establish ment with anything like so large a proportion of affec tions of the lungs. I am happy of having this opportunity of acknowl edging my thanks to Dr. Lombard for his polite atten tions to me, and of expressing the high esteem which I entertain for his professional abilities. He is one of the most ardent admirers of the stethescope, and one of the most skilful in the use of it that I have met with out of Paris. So confident is he of the truth of its revelations, that he assured me that he could mark, from day to day, icith a pen upon the chest, the increase or diminution of the inflammation within. We avail ourselves of the following graphic tableau of our journey through a most interesting portion of Switzerland, cop'ied from a MS. journal kept by Mrs. Mott, who accompanied me in this part of my tour : " One of the most memorable spots we visited in Switzerland was Goldau, which, thirty years ago, was overwhelmed by the faU of a mountain, and which bu ried no less than five villages, including old Goldau, and 467 persons. This awful catastrophe is stUl remem bered by some who were eyewitnesses to the heart rending scene. As we wandered over this moimtain- SWITZERLAND. 87 tumulus of the dead, imagination pictured the spot, which now spoke only of blasted hopes and desolation, wUd as even it was on the very eve of that fatal day : a rich vaUey, inhabited by youth and age, each indul ging in the hopes and pleasures pecuhar to their years ; looking forward to the morrow with anxious care or joy, httle dreaming that an awful fate was hanging over their devoted heads, or that the mountain, which had so long yielded to their comfort and support, would in a few .short hours spread death and destruction over all who dwelt beneath its shadow. The infant slept in its mother's arms as sweetly that night as it had ever done before ; the jocund laugh went round ; the merry song of the shepherd rang through the parting mountain with the same joyous sound ; sorrow — for there is sorrow everywhere — hung with the same deadly weight upon the mourner's heart, as though it were to feed through a sad aud protracted hfe upon its prey, while the afflict ed, to whom the grim messenger alone could have spo ken words of comfort, still bent the head in pious resig nation, waiting their release, but not daring even to hope for. it. The weary traveUer, too, slept as peacefully through that night, as if the morning sun would only rise to show forth to him Nature's beauties with still greater lustre, when he would wander as fearless o'er the mountain side and through the pleasant valley, as we who now stood gazing on the fearful wreck, little dreaming that night would be their last The scene was awful. Rocks of an immense size — huge hillocks or mounds of earth — lay beneath our feet, wrapped in one common winding-sheet ; the mountain earth their sepulchre. " On the morning of the thirtieth anniversary [Sept 22] of this awfiil event we commenced the ascent of 88 SWITZERLAND. the Rigi, The mist-Uke clouds hung over the Lake of Zoug and the surrounding country, so as completely to obscure the sight of everything twenty yards beyond us, producing the effect of a wide, extended sea, as it broke away and gradually settled in the vaUey below. The ascent of the Rigi is by a broken and precipitous route, made of large logs and stones, laid so as to form stairs. Up these stairs, on the very brink of yawning chasms, were we obliged to ride, holding firmly to the mane. While the guide led our horses in this manner, we were enabled slowly and with difficulty to ascend. We pass ed many crosses, which mark the different stations, and serve as resting-places for the weary pilgrim or the ad venturous traveller, each little shrine being provided with benches for the purpose. Arriving at the Hospice de Notre Dame de la Neige, some of our party refreshed themselves with a cup of goat's milk and home-made bread. Another hour brought us to the summit of the Rigi. Imagine yourself standing on a precipice of many thousand feet, the clouds below you, and the clear ex panse of heaven above. Watch those clouds slowly dispersing, and presenting to your view a landscape wide and extended, bounded only by mountains clad in eternal snow, towering in cold sublimity on the far-dis tant horizon ; below, in sUvery beauty at the foot of the mountain, lay the Lake of Zoug and the lakes of the four cantons. Autumn had already gemmed the woods with its richest hues. The little pleasure-boats of Lu cerne, like birds upon the water, calmly pursued their various course. ViUages with their ghttering spires; the peasant's cot ; the princely tower : all lent their aid to beautify this wUd, romantic scene. "On turning the last angle of the circuitous path, which at this junction bordered the edge of the loftiest SWITZERLAND. 89 precipice, we met a train of nuns and friars, pilgrims from the convent of Zoug, twenty miles distant, either for the performance of some vow or for recreation. The men were of uncommon stature, remarkably noble and erect in form. The nuns were exceedingly deUcate in appearance, and one in particular very beautiful, mo ving with an air of dignity and elegance which excited our admiration and astonishment, and gave to imagi nation a bold license to conjure up some tale of deep romance, where, as is usual, early, disappointed, blighted hopes — a lover dead or false — had driven from the world of fashion and elegance the lovely, the enchanting fe male then before us. But there were no marks of mel ancholy in her fine, expressive face ; no pallid cheek or sunken eye to uphold us in our fantasies. All was the brightness of youth untouched by the mildew of sorrow. A radiant smile lit up her inteUigent countenance, and with sweet modesty and grace she answered the few questions politeness permitted us to address to her. The dress she wore, though coarse, was particularly becom ing. It consisted of a hood made up of black cloth bound with white ; a large coarse wrapper of brown cloth tied round the waist with a hempen rope, from which hung a rosary and crucifix ; her neck was cover ed with a plaited kerchief, which also went round the head underneath the hood. She looked like an offering meet for heaven. " The dress ofthe friars was similar in appearance and texture, except that their heads were bare, and on their feet they wore sandals. They were venerable-looking men, with beards long and gray, fine, nay, handsome features, and possessing the manners of courtiers rather than monks. They proceeded to the house, took break fast, and, after visiting the observatory, departed, each M 90 SWITZERLAND. with his mountain staff in hand. A graceful inclination of the head, a kind adieu from each of the apparently happy sisterhood, and a blessing from the reverend friars, separated us from beings who, though unknown, were yet interesting from circumstances and situation. " We amused ourselves by wandering from one in teresting point to another, watching the varied appear ances of the clouds, as in fantastic forms they hovered round the tops of the distant mountains, and in purchas ing little articles of wooden-ware, which are carved with considerable taste by a poor man and his son, who during the summer months thus reap their harvest, and thereby pr«ovide for the necessities of a long and dreary winter. The day equalled our most sanguine hopes, and held forth the prospect of a most glorious sunset. Though late in the season, the house was crowded by travellers of various nations, feelings, and pursuits. The pedestrian in his loose blouse, fanciful cap, and mount ain crook ; the youthful bride, the smiling belle and no less courteous beau, together with the staid and quiet matron, and vigorous old age, all sought the point from which might be seen to best advantage the bright and glorious departure of day's radiant orb. The effect was beautiful, truly enchanting, at an elevation of many thou sand feet above the level of the sea, perched, as it were, in mid air. Insensibly the mind became withdrawn from the contemplation of aU earthly things, and ab sorbed in thoughts and feelings exalted and sublime as the lofty dome of heaven itself, which at that moment seemed entirely illumined with the last crimson rays of the setting sun, whose golden disc slowly departed to bless with his. ardent beams another portion of our won drous globe. Long before he disappeared the lakes at the foot of this precipitous mountain, and aU the villages SWITZERLAND. 91 on their borders, with the peaceful hUls and forests which surrounded them, lay buried in the silence and gloom of night Enraptured, we watched the gradual decline of day's holy hght; beheld it tinge with golden red the lofty peak of snow-capped Grindenwald, rest a moraent on the cold, pure, snowy bosom of the Jong Frou, then lighting the tearful mist of Pilate, something like an angel's pitying glance when it fights on scenes of human wo it cannot relieve — trembling and cheerless — fading in sorrow as it lingers yet more pure. The mantle of night, with all her bright and studded gems of sparkling lustre, covered the broad expanse of heaven, affording but a faint and dubious light. To remain any longer near the brink of a precipice so awful would have tried a heart more brave and fearless than our own. Cautiously we retired, and felt much pleasure to find our selves surrounded by beings like ourselves, dependant on the power and greatness of Him who shall but touch the mountains and they shall smoke, and say. Be thou re moved into the sea, and lo ! it is done. After an anxious look at the fleecy clouds which began to flit across the summit of the surrounding mountain, and a fervent hope expressed that the morning would be alike propitious, the party dispersed, and sought repose in the frail and tottering tenement which crowned the summit of this lofty eminence. " We slept, but not soundly ; for, in truth, we had be come nervously sensitive, and felt as if we were on the branch of some high tree, or on the brink of a roaring torrent; and weU might we imagine ourselves strangely and unnaturally placed ; for a thick white fog had cov ered all of earth, and nothing but the sky was visible save the moving sea of mist. " Towards morning the wind rose and whistled round 92 SWITZERLAND. the soUtary house in most melancholy meanings. We watched the movements of the fleeting clouds. Finally the bugle sounded, and in an instant the household were in motion. The clerk of the mountain had arrived at the just conclusion that the wind, which now blew with considerable violence, would before sunrise disperse the clouds, and thereby afford the lovers of nature an oppoi'- tunity of witnessing from this elevated spot the return of that beautiful and joy-inspiring orb they had seen de part but the evening before in such unrivalled splendour. •' A hasty toilet prepared us for a sortie into an at mosphere bleak and chilly as November. We ascended the tottering steps of the observatory, there patiently to await the day god's coming. At one minute before six the first glimpse of the glorious orb of day was caught above the mighty Alps. Two minutes past that hour his whole disc was entirely visible, like a globe of fire in the midst of sparkling crystals of calcareous spar ; some grayish, some capped with snow, others shining and transparent glaciers, thrown together in tumultuous confusion. The scene was worthy of a painter's pencil and a poet's pen." Feeling a great interest to witness for myself the loathsome and disgusting deformity of the Thyroid Gland, so endemic to Switzerland, and familiarly known under the name of Goitre, and its frequent and humil iating attendant, Idiocy, there denominated Chretinisin, I traversed the Valais country for the express purpose of personal examination of this deplorable complication of disease, involving the physical as weU as the mental functions. Throughout this extended Valais region of Switzer land, scarcely an individual is to be seen, male or female, who is not more or less affected with this calamitous SWITZERLAND. 93 deformity ; much more frequent, as it appeared to me, in the female than in the male sex. To such a fright ful magnitude does this growth sometimes attain, that it actually disqualifies the unfortunate sufferer from pre serving an erect position. In one instance, indeed, at Martigny, the size of the tumour was of such colossal dimensions that the poor woman was obUged to crawl along the floor upon her hands and feet, dragging the gigantic dewlap and pendulous mass after her ! The deterioration of the inteUectual faculties is by no means a constant attendant, and does not depend upon the magnitude of the tumour. The idiocy which is occasionally observed, and which obtains in such persons the name of Chretinism, appears to me, from my observations, to be frequently a connate affection, while at other times it is superadded to the goitrous enlargement In those cases in which chretinism is associated with the affection of the neck, the individ ual is reduced to the most abject state of animal exist ence imaginable ; a mere vegetative being, scarcely pos sessing the common instincts that prompt to locomotion. I was told, for example, that sometimes, when the poor creature was a few steps from his own door, he had not capacity enou^ to find his way back. This may truly be said to be almost a molluscous existence. At the capital of the Valais country. Scion, I found raore of these pitiable objects than in any other place ; and I ascertained there, that, when children and adults were found to be approaching chretinism, it was a common practice to remove them to a high or mount ainous situation, as the most conducive to their amend ment or restoration. And I was credibly informed that this remedial measure was sometimes attended with beneficial and even curative results. A fact which 94 SWITZERLAND. Struck me as the raore valuable, as it is opposed to the received opinions of those who have not visited this region and investigated the subject for themselves. My own opinion is, that the malady is not, as has generally been supposed, imputable necessarily to ele vated mountain situations, but to the cold and sepulchral dampness of low valley regions, apart from everything connected with the ordinarily assigned causes, snoiv, or the drinking of snow-water. To me it appears no more remarkable that low valley situations, excluded from the sun, and disconnected alto gether from mountain elevations, should produce goitrous and chretin affections, than that dogs and other animals should have engendered in them the most confirmed Rickets, and softening of the bones, by being confined in dark situations for weeks, excluded from the Ught and influence of the solar rays, though they may be at the same time well-fed and nourished. A fact which I have been an eyewitness to in a series of careful experiments made at Paris by my friend Dr. Jules Guerin. These facts in relation to goitre have seemed to me to be of a most interesting character, and deserving of the closest attention and investigation of pathologists. The admirable CoMsm has said, " Giv'e me the rivers, plains, mountains, and climate of a country, and I will tell you the character of its inhabitants." Would it not have been a problem of difficult solution to this philos opher to explain how topographic and climactic pecu harities, which in Switzerland may be supposed to have had their influence in moulding the character of a people famed throughout history for their high moral and inteUectual endowments, and their indomitable val our and love of liberty, should have also given birth to SWITZERLAND. 95 a race of mortals, reduced to the most lamentable con dition of animal existence and mental imbecility. From the Valais country of Switzerland I determined to cross the mighty Simplon, and to commence my route in Italy by the plains of Lombardy. This sublime mountain pass, worthy of the wonder ful conceptions of Napoleon, is an object of interest to aU traveUers. No one can form an idea of its fearful grandeur, scaling, as it does, the Alpine summits, up to the region of perpetual snows, and often obscured in its highest part with clouds and driving snow-storms, even during the midst of summer heats below. It was left for the gigantic mind of Napoleon, his genius soaring literally to the clouds, to project and accomplish this stupendous work, which must be seen to be reahzed. It is easily to be comprehended that an inteUect only like that of the French emperor, associated with that daring courage and, unconquerable perseverance that could conduct an army across the Great St. Bernard in the depths of winter, must be of the high order fitted to execute the magnificent work which he afterward achieved in the construction of the Simplon. This consummated for him the dreams of his irre pressible ambition, opened to him the gates of MUan, and led to the conquest of Lombardy and the glorious victories of Marengo and of Lodi. 96 LOMBARDY. LOMBARDY. The beautiful plains of Lombardy, covered with vine yards and teeming with luxurious cultivation, offered me a delicious treat, in contrast with the dangerous gorges and cold Alpine ranges through which I had passed only the day before. The comfortable town of Domo d'Ossola and the expanse of Lago Maggiore, with its enchanting islands, are the first to greet the footsteps of the wearied travel ler on descending from the lofty Alps into the Sardinian territory. Reposing here for a day or two to refresh ourselves, and to enjoy the beauties of the romantic isl ands of Isola Bella and Isola Madre, we resumed our journey, and proceeded to the splendid city oi Milan, the capital of the present Lombardo- Venetian States. The city of Milan is situated on the extensive plains of Lombardy, about forty miles from the Alps, and hav ing in the distant view to the east the range of the Ap ennines. It is a more regularly laid out and uniformly and beautifuHy built capital, and reminded me more of the modern cities of Great Britain and our own country, than any other in Italy. On entering this superb city by the Simplon Gate, we were struck also with the magnificence %nd symmetrical simplicity of this stnicture ; and among the objects on it that must arrest the attention of the traveller, are the finely-executed bas-reliefs of numerous battle pieces with which it is decorated. Upon closer inspection of them our surprise was not a little excited by discovering that they were intended to represent the minor and incon- LOMBARDY. 97 siderable victories of the Austrians, the present occu pants of this fertile region, rather than the truly glorious triumphs of the Great Captain who projected and com pleted the mighty road over the Alps, which this gate way at its termination was designed to commemorate. Among the pubhc edifices, one of the most attractive and beautiful throughout Italy, though smaller than many other temples of religious worship which we vis ited, was the celebrated Duomo, which is built entirely of white marble, in the Gothic style of architecture, pre senting a purity and chasteness from its snow-white colour and exquisite workmanship, that seemed in ad mirable harmony with the purposes to which it is con secrated. On the roof it is ornamented with a great variety of busts, among which we were pleased to see one of su perb chiselling representing the Emperor Napoleon, un der whose orders this noble edifice was completed. The cicerone took great pride in pointing this out to us ; for all the Itahans look upon Napoleon, not as a conqueror, but as their own blood countryman, as he was ; as their protector and benefactor, the patron of the fine arts, and the reviver of their former imperial glories under the Cae sars and the Medici. In the interior of this magnificent structure is the tomb of their favourite saint and patron. Carlo Boromeo, whose body, in an exsiccated and well-preserved state, is open to inspection, being enclosed in a glass coffin of the most elaborate construction imaginable, ornamented with the richest devices and imagery. Within the coffin are seen various pious offerings in the shape of amulets, chaplets, and jewelry of the most precious and costly description, altogether constituting this sepulchral monument a bi jou indeed, that has, we beheve, no parallel. N 98 LOMBARDY. In a professional point of view, I found the civil hos pital one of extreme interest, of ample construction, and under excellent regulations, containing many hundred patients. Among the objects of disease which most at tracted my attention, was that pecuUar affection of the skin and lower extremities prevalent in this part of Italy, and denominated the Pellagra. In this extended and beautiful plain of Venetian Lom bardy, imbosomed within the Alps and Apennines, and teeming with vegetation, it might naturally be expected, from the great humidity and abundance of malaria, that diseases of the extreme parts of the body, and of the cu taneous and lymphatic systems, would be produced. This malady seems to me to consist of a languidness in the functions of the skin and debility of the lymphatic vessels, showing itself in hypertrophic enlargements of the integuments and of the adipose and ceUular tissues ; and, from the observations I made, the general atony and exhaustion of the vascular systera was strikingly manifested by the remarkable feebleness of the action of the heart and arteries, and the consequent diminution of energy in the cerebral functions ; the latter seeming to be the effect of the progressive march of the disease throughout the system, the constitution not being origi nally affected, but consecutively so, by the extension of the primary disease. It occurs, too, in the class of labouring persons, who are raore exposed to the raalarious influence of the cli mate, and who are predisposed, indeed, to all diseases of debility by the privations they suffer from defective nour ishment and confined and unwholesome habitations. In the observations which I afterward made in Greece, and in Egypt, and in other parts of the East, and which I shaU shortly speak of, I was impressed with the great LOMBARDY. 99 simUarity, in some respects, between this peculiar Ital ian malady of Pellagra and the Lepra and Elephantiasis. The extreme penury of the system in the poorer classes of the Italians of Lombardy, is not unhke what we met with among the peasantry of Greece and the modern Arabs of Egypt and its deserts ; for, although the climates and topographical peculiarities of these several countries are very dissimilar, there are causes operative in each which must produce simUar effects. And from what we noticed ourselves in journeying in these differ ent regions, we are convinced of the truth of the anal ogy in question. In Lombardy, we may also remark that a vast pro portion of the prevaUing type of diseases are oi paludal origin. Hence the frequency of Intermittents and Re mittents, and of Hepatic and Splenic congestions in all their comphcations, which is in farther corroboration of the malarious influence which we have ventured to sug gest as one ofthe primary causes of Pellagrous affections. In my visits to the hospital of Milan, my attention was pleasingly arrested by several monumental tablets which I noticed in the portico ; and which, upon examination, X found to be bas-reliefs and inscriptions in honour of distinguished members of the medical profession de ceased, who had formerly been attached to this valued charity : a just tribute of public gratitude to their worth, and a homage to their services in the cause of humanity, which I nowhere else noticed in my travels to have been paid to our profession. In the vicinity, and not far distant fi-om MUan, is the renowned city of Pavia, distinguished as the birth place and residence of the immortal Scarpa, who may truly be said to have been the John Hunter of Italy. But Scarpa is no more. The sun of surgical science in 100 LOMBARDY. Italy has gone down with' him, and the twUight only re mains. But his fame is not only spread over the country of his birth and the theatre of his labours, but has extend ed throughout the civihzed world. His rauseuni, hke that of his great predecessor in British surgery, will ever stand as a precious and enduring monument of his inde fatigable industry and of his surgical skill, as evinced in the variety and beauty of his morbid preparations. His reputation is as much cherished by his own countrymen as that of Hunter's was and Sir Astley Cooper's is by the people of Great Britain. His imperial folio works on Aneurisms, Hernias, and other leading subjects in surgery, are no less admired for their magnificent embellishments than valued as standard productions in the science. In continuing our route through this interesting coun try, we must stop a few moments at the ancient city of Padua, renowned in former times as the greatest med ical school of its day in Southern Europe, after the de cline of the famous University of Salernum in Cala bria. What Padua was, Leyden was ; but before Ley den rose to astonish the world, Padua was already in the ascendant, and was the resort of students and pro fessional men from all parts of Europe, who came here to complete their education under the most distinguished professors of their time. It is now in the shade, and scarcely a vestige is to be discovered of its former med ical greatness. It has an hospital and a smaU medical school, to remind us only of what may be met with in almost any large interior town of our own country. It is another of the melancholy instances so frequent ly met with in Europe, of the constant decline of hu man institutions and human prosperity, showing that the light of science and of civilization, iu the immense LOMBARDY. 101 progress which is making in liberal principles, has no permanent foothold in, but is gradually fading from, the mighty empires of the Old World, to be revived under more benign auspices, and to shine with augmented lus tre in this Western hemisphere. What must have once been the renown and glory of this University of Padua, to have attracted to its halls the immortal Harvey of England, who imbibed here, perhaps, some of those luminous views of Fabricius relative to the valves in the veins, which so beautifully prepared the way for the consummation and perfection of his own brilliant discovery of the circulation of the blood? 102 TUSCANY. TUSCANY. Our attention will next be directed to Pisa in Tus cany, once containing a population of over 100,000 in habitants, and now mournful to behold, as lonely and deserted almost as if a pestilence was raging within its waUs. Not 20,000 inhabitants are now to be found perambulating its desolate streets, while many of its most beautiful mansions and palaces on either bank of the classic and romantic Arno are entirely abandoned. The day was when pulmonary invahds from all parts of Europe, and even from our own country, looked to a winter residence in Pisa as their only last hope and asylum. Of all portions of Tuscany that I visited, this city certainly presents superior recommendations in its locality ; but it has been found, from sad experience, that Pisa, hke Nice and Montpelier in later times, possesses no specific balm in its climate. Bright and mild as the skies are during the day, the sudden and chilly blasts of the Tramontane winds from the Apennines admonish the valetudinarian that this is not the El Dorado that he had so long sighed for. Pisa is located about twenty miles from the sea and from the port of Leghorn, and certainly has advantages for affections of the chest over the latter city, as weU as over the ducal capital, Florence, which is also on the Arno, but sixty miles above Pisa. But the crowded condition of the cemetery for for eigners in Pisa, asd especially that of Leghorn, though the latter in its sepulchral ornaments be another Pere la Chaise in beauty, were sad and telltale memorials that TUSCANY. 103 the charms of climate and all the attractions of this classic land are powerless in averting the deadly arrow from the unfortunate victim of confirmed pulmonary dis ease. Here now, as in aU former time, both youth and age alike succumb to its despotic sway. As Virgil, at his own Mantua, not many miles distant, said in refer ence to another subject, " Hfflsit lateri lethalis arundo f or, in the language of the immortal Darwin, " Here, fell Consumption ! thy unerring dart Wets its wide wings in youth's reluctant heart." Pisa, to the professional traveller, has, besides its cele brated leaning tower, so often cited in scientific works in iUustrating the laws of gravitation, a very small med ical school, but a respectable and well-ordered hos pital. I was waited upon at the hotel where I stopped by Signer Regnoli, one of the raost distinguished pro fessors of surgery in Italy, and was conducted by him on a visit to the hospital. Here he apparently took par ticular pride to show me many interesting surgical cases and morbid specimens which he had preserved as com memorative of his skUl. He dwelt with most earnest ness on several operations which he had performed for Osteo-Sarcoma on the maxillary bones, ranked in later times as among the most important and capital. At my last interview with him at my residence, he put into my hand several pamphlets containing accounts of what he had done in modern surgery. Delicacy to a distin guished confrere, and the respect which I have always endeavoured to have for the feelings of others, especially when receiving attentions from them, prevented me, at this moment of the conversation, from interrupting the current of good feeling which he manifested towards me," and the satisfaction he appeared to take in narra- 104 TUSCANY. ting his successful practice. He spoke of his operations on the lower jaw with just pride, as being thejirst and only ones of the kind ever attempted in Italy. At the conclusion of his remarks I felt it due to my self and to historic truth, respectfully to inform the pro fessor that / had myself been the first in any country to perform those operations. He observed that he was not aware of it, and had only received the accounts of them as reported in Dupuytren's cases. He remarked that, when a pupil in Paris, Dupuytren laid claim to origi nality in these operations. I then felt it an imperious obligation upon me to inform him that mine, at New- York, were published at least a year or more anterior to Dupuytren's, and that when Dupuytren heard of them, he said he intended to give a clinique on the subject, and wished to have a translation of my cases, which was accordingly made for him at his own request, and placed in his hands. He gave a clinique on the subject before his class in the Hotel Dieu, a few days after, with my cases in his hand, but never breathed my name, nor that the operation had ever been performed by any one. Shortly after this he did perform the operation on the lower jaw, and then claimed it as the first that ever had been performed, and as original with himself; and, to give currency to this misstatement and gross act of in justice to myself, caused the time at which his opera tion was done to be ante-dated. I avow these facts fearlessly before the world. My witness, a surgeon of great eminence, -who made the translation of my cases for Dupuytren, and put it in his hands, lives in Paris. This fact he has stated to me over and over again. My operation, therefore, on the lower jaw, for osteo sarcoma, T claim for my country, my city, and myself. T U S C -A N T. 105 AU this I have asserted repeatedly at Paris, and there is no respectable geiitleman in the profession there who does not wiUingly accord to me whatever merit priority in projecting and successfully accomplishing this new operation can give. And I finally here solemnly declare that, previous to my operation, I never read nor heard that any exsection whatever of the lower jaw had ever been performed for osteosarcoma ; nor do I believe that the operation had ever before been attempted by any one. If I have had the good fortune to strike out in this, as in some other parts of operative surgery, a new track by which human life has been preserved and prolonged, common justice entitles me to the credit of it. But I will not in this place dUate upon what would seem so much to concern myself personally, but shall leave it to be disposed of at a proper time, and on a more suitable occasion. In the Campo Santo, a burial-ground at Pisa reserv ed more especially for the interment of the most distin guished individuals, I noticed an elegant tomb and tablet to the memory of the celebrated Professor Vacca of that city. In examining this beautiful and well-merited me mento of this eminent surgeon, it recalled to my min(J some traits that more particularly marked his profes sional character. He was the author and able support er of that true and philosophical doctrine, as I believe it to be, and have always taught, that the proximate cause of inflammation is a dilatation of the vessels inflamed and a diminution of their action, accompanied with an increased action of the vessels surrounding the inflamed part. A doctrine which, however paradoxical it may appear at first, is the only one sustained by induction, and capable of explaining aU the phenomena. Besides the able arguments used in support of it by the Italian O 106 TUSCANY. professor, we have ordinarily subjoined in our Ulustra- tions of this interesting subject, the condition of other hollow muscles of the body when over-distended, which uniformly, under that state, have their action impaired. If we view the arterial tubes as hollow muscles, as they unquestionably are, the analogy must be striking and ap posite, and the argument deduced therefrom incapable of refutation. From Pisa we passed on to Florence, the capital of Tuscany. Next to the Lombardo-Venetian states, Tus cany is, it seems to me, the most productive in fertility, and the most prosperous in its social and political con dition of any kingdom of Italy. In the zealous culti vation of the fine arts, and their hberal encouragement, as evinced in the vast coUections of the Florentine gal leries and museums, those who for ages past have ad ministered the government of this ducal territory, have made their capital the mistress of Italy, rivalling Rome herself. Florence contain^ also by far the most distinguished medical school in Italy. The professors of anatomy and surgery received me with great kindness, and con ducted me through the anatomical museum and hospit al, exhibiting to me many things that were highly inter esting. The museum, though respectable, and the professors distinguished throughout Tuscany, is limited in extent, and falls short in interest and number of specimens to my own private collection. But the activity and ardour which the professors exhibit give a sure pledge that this school is destined to play no mean role in the south of Europe. It surprised me, however, very much, that a classic city like Florence, abounding in public institutions and TUSCANY. 107 in wax models of natural structures unsurpassed by any in the world, should so lately only have given attention to the direct cultivation of human anatomy and the for mation of a coUection of preparations immediately il lustrative of, and tributary to, the teaching of this sci ence, and its kindred branches of pathology and surgery. As an evidence that the cultivation of exact anatomy, and dissection for the purposes of our profession has been greatly neglected, we may mention one fact among others, which we now perfectly weU recoUect, in the Great National Gallery of Wax Preparations. This was the misplacement of the inguinal artery upon the inside of the vein as it passed under the crural arch ; a blunder exhibiting such unpardonable ignorance in the relative position of these two great trunks, that it is not redeemed by the general beauty of the specimens. This fact alone would demonstrate that, in aU the display met with here of models of the human form in every vari ety, more attention has been paid to the external con tour and symmetry, and to the harmonious arrangement of the muscular proportions after some beau ideal oi the imagination, than to a faithful and just dehneation of exact organization as it exists in nature. This might have been anticipated, perhaps, from the impassioned enthusiasm for the fine arts, which has for ages rendered so celebrated the Florentine school of sculpture and painting. For anatomy has only been studied in the exterior and superficial proportions of the human form, because^ it is these only which are subser vient to the cultivation of those arts. In the museum of their medical school nothing was exhibited to me that indicated that they had kept pace with the march of surgery, or achieved any of the great modern opera tions, excepting one single morbid preparation of a cica- 108 TUSCANY. trix, denoting a successful result of the Ccesarean oper ation. This was shown with much pride and satisfac tion. What were not my feelings, too, of pride and exultation, when I reflected that, in my own country, this truly formidable operation had twice been perform ed by our fellow-eountryman, Dr. Gibson, of Philadel phia, upon the same mother, with the triumphant result of saving her life as well as that of the child, each time thus forcibly taken from its parent The most novel and piquant treat of all others to me in the beautiful capital of Florence, was my several visits to Signor Sigato, a scientific gentleman to whom I was introduced by my excellent friend and fellow- countryman, James Thompson, of New- York, who has been residing with his family many years in Florence. Signor Sigato possessed a wonderful art, unique, and unknown to all the world besides. Incredible, if not marvellous, as it may seem, he had discovered a chemical process by which he could actually petrify, in a very short time, every animal substance, preserving permanently, and with minute accuracy, its form and in ternal texture, and in a state of such stony hardness that it could be satved into slabs and elegantly polished ! He had in this way formed a museum of various ani mals, such a.s frogs, fishes, toads, snakes, and a great vari ety of parts of the human body in a natural and diseased state. In my presence he threw the human liver, lungs, heart, and other parts thus petrified, about the floor with perfect impunity, and without the least injury being done to them. Still more curious, he had, with Italian taste, cut thera into small polished squares, and arranged them in complete tables of mosaic work ! so that it gave him as much delight as it did me astonishment, to find that I could with my finger designate to hira, on this precious TUSCANY. 109 centre-table for a surgeon's drawing-room, the appropri ate name and character of each individual object thus spread out before me in a pathological chart of real speci mens. Thus a. pulmonary tubercle or ulcer here, a hyda tid of the liver there, a cicatrix in the brain in another compartment, and a calculus in the kidney or ossification of the heart's auricles and valves in a fourth. This extraordinary man must have inherited the magic shield of Perseus, that, with the snaky tresses of the Gor gon Medusa's head, enabled him to convert everything he touched into stone. It struck rae iraraediately that, for all anatomical and surgical purposes, and all objects of natural history, this was an art of inappreciable value, and the most desira ble ever discovered ; and with that view I conversed with him relative to a visit to our country, believing it would be of national importance if we could have the benefit of his services. I even entered into some pre hminaries of a negotiation with the design of obtaining him for my own purposes, but I found him sadly involved in debt, and that his demands were too exorbitant to be complied with. I, however, made him liberal offers, and did not entirely despair that he would have acceded to them, when, to my regret, about three weeks after leav ing Florence, I was informed by letter that he was sud denly attacked with a violent inflammation of the lungs, which proved fatal ; and, what is as much to be de plored, that his unprecedented discovery perished with him. He never would divulge the least part of his mai'- vellous process ; but, when pressed by me on the sub ject, hinted that he had acquired it in his various jour neys in remote Eastern countries ; and it is fondly to be hoped that some one may ere long appear who, in pur suing this inquiry, wiU be enabled to recover the art 110 TUSCANY. among those people from whom he intiraated that he had obtained it It is worthy of observation how, in the extraordinary process we have described, art accompUshes in so brief a time what nature requires so long a period to effect, and then never with anything comparable to the per fection, we may say almost identity, with which this mode preserves an exact facsimile of the original; in truth, the original itself. In all the natural petrifying processes; only the external configuration and character generally, and not even the colour is retained, and rarely the texture,, except in the case of ligneous substances, where- both the fibres and colours are tolerably well sustained. But in this surprising and almost magic art, not only, as we have said, the precise exterior outhne is faith fully and exactly represented, but also the most minute and delicate interior arrangement of structure admirably perpetuated; as, for example, the entire viscera of the chest and abdomen, with aU their varied and beautiful convolutions, were clearly exhibited, retaining even the colours of the bloodvessels, in preparations of frogs, birds, and other animals, besides the human body. Before leaving Florence, we must be permitted to say one word upon the almost threadbare theme of its more remarkable gems in sculpture. However much we may admire the perfect and exquisite proportions of the cel ebrated Venus de Medici, perhaps the chef doeuvre itself of Praxiteles, and all the world miist admire it, or their taste, or even their reason wiU be impeached, we ven ture, professionally, to have another taste, which is de cidedly in favour of the Venus of Canova in the Pitti Palace of the grand-duke. In the former, everything there is of it is good, but it TUSCANY. Ill is too diminutive ; while Canova's is better because there is more of it Both being exquisite in perfection, a precedence would naturally be given to that of Canova, in contemplating them as models of that female form, truly divine, that is destined to preserve and perpetuate unbroken and unde- generate, in volume, strength, and beauty, the golden links of creation. 112 ROME. ROME. On my way to the " Eternal City," I tarried a short time in the old and cheerless town of Siena, on one of the summits of the Apennines. The only interest I felt in this dreary and sequestered place was in the tomb of the celebrated Mascagni. A traveller would think, in viewing this town, that every resident ought to be an enthusiast in some pursuit or another, to reconcile him to so gloomy an abode. So probably it was with Mas cagni, whose name is consecrated in the esteem of every anatoraist for his matchless discoveries and delineations in that wonderful system of our organization denomi nated the Absorbent. No man before or since his time has ever been so successful in his injections and demon strations of fhis minute part of our structure. His mag nificent work continues, even at this day, to be appealed to as our highest authority. Though no one can ques tion that all he has delineated was necessary to com plete this intricate part of our fabric, yet some, who have been unable to extend their researches as far, have even ventured to doubt that Mascagni himself could have alone achieved the monument he has left, of an untiring industry and keenness of investigation that has never been surpassed. No object at Siena was exhibited with so much pride and pleasure as the beautiful and full-sized statue of Hygeia, placed over his remains, and pointing signif icantly, and with mournful expression, to the tablet in bas-relief of a portion of the absorbent system exquis itely chiseUed in marble. ROME. 113 Traversing the last ranges of the Apennines, we at last saw in the distant horizon the towers and domes of the " Eternal City." In common with aU travellers, we venture to express our disappointment at the first ghmpse that is obtained of Rome. The first prominent object that strikes the eye is the far-famed and holy edifice of St Peter's, which, from the high expectations that have been conceived of it in every one's mind, ap pears comparatively diminutive. And this disappoint ment continues on a nearer approach to it, and even on entering its vestibule for the first time. But, on a closer examination of its vast interior, its pictorial decorations and majestic architectural proportions, its costly orna ments and rich and elaborate workmanship, which have been the theme of so many pens, this superb and colos sal structure, at every subsequent visit, impresses itself with greater and greater force upon our minds, exciting our wonder and admiration. After a visit to this first great object of interest, we next directed our attention to the ruins of ancient Rome ; and here, also, our first impressions feU far short of the conceptions that we had formed of them. Linked though they had been with every thought almost of our early recollections and studies, the glowing colours in which they had been invested in our imagination were dispelled when we saw the reality. Of all that is now left to verify the identity of proud, imperial Rome, the only object by which we could re alize, by tangible and ocular evidence, the existence of that mighty people, and that we were treading upon the hallowed ground, "Where conquering eagles gilded every dome ; Where Virgil sang ; where Ciceronian fire Burst on the heads of guilty senators ; 114 ROME. And murdered Caesar, bleeding with his wounds, Fell at the foot of Pompey's statue," were the ruins of the incomparable CoUseum. In clambering over the reraains of this vast structure we could readily picture to ourselves the grand concep tions of Vespasian, under whom it was comraenced, and the Herculean labour with which it was completed by the thirty thousand prisoners whom his son and suc cessor, Titus, brought from Judea after his conquest of Jerusalem. What gratifying emotions must naturally arise in the mind of the Christian, in contrasting this pagan pile with the modern edifice of St Peter's ! The one saw the followers of Christ brought in chains to Rome, to swell the triumphs of the imperial conqueror, and to labour as slaves in the construction of a work designed to pamper the pride of their master. The other records the advent of that auspicious era in the tide of human events, when the descendants theraselves of those Christian slaves, still humbly bearing the stand ard of the cross, and spreading abroad the glad tidings of salvation, in their turn dictated laws to the world from this capital of the Roman Empire, as masters and freemen. She whose military sceptre had so long held undis puted dominion over the nations of the earth, the horae of that thrice-honoured Csesarean Titus who had sack ed the city of Jerusalem and laid waste the Holy Land, now became, under his successors, the fountain-head and mother of Christendom. Even in the very arena of the Coliseum, where once was exhibited to admiring thousands those brutal specta cles of gladiatorial combats, where not only wild beasts, but human beings, were wantonly immolated at the shrine ROME. 115 of pagan barbarity, a smaU Christian chapel has been most appropriately reared, to sound the trumpet of peace and good-wiU, and to proclaim the everlasting song of salvation to the human race. I viewed it one night by moonlight The soft rays feU through the broken arches and noble windows of the ancient ruin, shedding their benign influence all around. While I stood by the side of the Christian temple, de lighted with the silvery scene, and reflecting within ray- self how beautifully typical this soft radiance was of the peaceful conquest that Christianity had gained over the dark and revolting ages of idolatry, a priest ap proached me, and, kneeling at the porch of the chapel, bent in sUent prayer before the altar of the living God. The Column of Trajan, near the Coliseum, however much we may justly appreciate the advanced state of architecture among the ancient Romans, is far inferior in design and execution, as well as in dimensions and height, to that raised by Napoleon on the Place Ven dome at Paris, out of the cannon captured at Austerlitz. The triumphal Arch of Titus, and the larger one near it of Septimius Severus, are beautiful, and of marble of the finest texture. They also are almost insignificant when compared with the colossal Arc de Triomphe at the Barriere de I'Etoile at Paris. It is not unworthy of notice to remark, as I have while standing near the Arch of Titus, the hereditary execration treasured against this emperor in the breasts of the Israelites, who always studiously avoid passing beneath the arch. They thus visit for centuries their revenge upon the memory of the man who had slaugh tered so many of their countrymen, and conducted them in servile bondage to Rome. Yet what must have been the maddening intoxication 116 ROME. for military glory ; what the blindness of those warUke Romans, to every other attribute of the huraan head and heart but the passion of ambition and conquest, when to this emperor alone, whose hands were so imbrued with the blood of Israel, was accorded by aU the Roman his torians the enviable title of " deliciae huraani generis," or the delight of the human race. Though it is universally conceded that, apart from his character as an energetic and uncompromising military commander, his private life was adorned with all the social virtues of humanity. While viewing the" Campania di Roma, or marshy plains of the Tiber, as we stood on the Coliseum, the variety and extent of the ruined aqueducts that traverse this region in every direction, are perhaps as well cal culated as any other feature to impress the mind of the antiquarian with the former grandeur of this people. Among them, we believe, there is but one at this time in successful operation, furnishing from the adjacent hiUs an ample supply of pure, delicious water, for ornamental fountains as well as for useful purposes. In reflecting upon these proud trophies of the arts in those remote (iays, our associations brought to mind the stupendous modern structure which is now in rapid- progress of completion by our own city. This of ours, as I should judge from those I have seen abroad, will far exceed in magnificence and extent any work of the kind ever projected by man. If, as I beheve, the crystal stream of the Croton shall as much promote the health of our citizens as the pure water of the hUls of Albano did that of the ancient Romans in the various uses of drinking, of irrigating the gardens, cleansing the sewers, and in supplying the celebrated and magnificent baths and other luxuries for which it was employed, it wiU be a blessing indeed. ROME. 117 The introduction of an abundant supply of purest water wiU estabhsh, I have no doubt, an era in the salu brity of our city, and elicit in after times the thanks of a grateful posterity for the enterprise and munificence of the present genejation. Modern Rome, and its numerous palaces and church es, its gaUeries and its museums, its splendid and match less Vatican, and, above all, its classic ruins, have been so much the theme of every tourist, that it would be trite in me to attempt to describe what has been so often and so ably done by others. My intention only is, in this narrative, to relate at times, in the various places I visit, the impressions pro duced upon my own mind by the most leading and prominent objects in works of art The principal bur den of my story I design to be on all those subjects of a professional and scientific nature, those general views on the moral and physical condition of society, upon which I may suppose that I can impart some informa tion or suggestions that may prove of service to the welfare and happiness of my fellow-beings. Ample provision is made in this great metropolis of the Papal dominions, as in all other Cathohc cities, for the comfort and rehef of the afflicted, in the estab lishment of hospitals and other numerous charities. The General Civil Hospital is commodious and weU arranged for the accommodation of the sick, but less numerously supphed with patients than any other hos pital I visited in Italy. The apartments particularly allotted to fever patients equal in all respects those on the most approved plan in Great Britain. I visited one morning, with the professor of clinical medicine, his wards particularly set apart for patients for public instruction. He caUed my attention to a re- 118 ROME. cent case of Colica Pictonum. I confess I was amused with a specimen he gave me of Roman practice. Though the patient evidently had incipient symptoms of the acute form of the disease, the professor neverthe less strangely recommended to his pupils that the sick man should be left to himself until a more full develop ment of the malady should be made manifest, before anything should be done to interpose relief or to arrest the progress of the symptoms. He retired, however, into the theatre, and gave a very interesting clinique upon the nature and character of the disease. Though it was in the Italian tongue, the analogy of that language to the Latin, and my knowledge of the French, which is of the same parentage, enabled me to comprehend it so well that I listened to it with great pleasure. The rules, however, that he laid down for the treatment, would have been of much more felicitous application had he administered them to the patient, who unquestionably was the individual most deeply ira plicated, and who would have been gratefully obliged to the professor had he carried them into immediate exe cution. The theoretical examination of the subject was un doubtedly interesting to his hearers, but the practical exhibition of the cure would have been still more in structive, and certainly more humane and beneficial to the sufferer. This, indeed, was making a scientific dis play at too much cost of individual distress. The medical school of Rome is small but respectable; but neither in anatomy nor surgery could I collect any thing novel or important, which certainly produced no little surprise in my mind, when I considered the mag nitude, and resources, and the antiquity of this capital I observed an antiquated usage among the pupils of R 0 M E. 119 medicine, who all appeared to be of the most inferior class of youths, and in keeping with the low state of medical science, not only in the Eternal City itself, but in other parts of Italy. This was the practice which they had, for want of comfortable arrangements in the hos pital, of each student, in his rounds through the wards, carrying a smaU earthen jar of live coals, held by both hands before him, to keep himself warm at the price of inhaling a deleterious gas ; aU of which appeared to me to be a great hinderance to investigations at the bedside of the sick, which, however, we regret to add, seemed to be a matter rather of secondary importance. On the Campania di Roma, in the environs of this city, and already raentioned, we saw a great number of splen did vUlas or country-seats, some of which we visited. Upon inquiry, we were informed that many of them were totally uninhabitable in the summer and autumnal part of the year, owing to the prevalence there of the frightful endemial disease, or bilious malignant remittent, which rapidly runs into typhus, and proves fatal to a large pro portion of the inhabitants of this district. This-malady, which has prevailed from the remotest period, to judge by the graphic account given of its fearful mortality by the celebrated Italian physician, icwcm, its earliest historian, appears to have become greatly mitigated in violence, or to have been made raore manageable to medical treat ment since the period at which he wrote. Its type can be clearly traced to marsh or paludal exhalations from the extensive, broad margin of low, wet meadows, which border either side of the Tiber, and which extend to the commencement of the Pontine Marshes, along the greater part of the route of the fa mous ancient Roman road called the Via Appia. This superb structure, we must stop to remark, led to 120 ROME. the port of Brundusium, no less than one hundred and twenty-Jive miles from Rome, and was completed by the consul Appius Claudius Censor about the 500th year of the buUding of Rome. The perfect adjustment and smoothness of its solid cubes of a stone of great hard ness, brought from distant quarries, and which scarcely seems worn after the immense travel that has taken place upon it on a double carriage track for 2000 years, is calculated to impress us with astonishment at the elaborate skill that the Romans at that early day pos sessed in everythiiig relating to masonry and architec ture. These were, in their hands, subjects upon which modern professors in those departraents of the useful arts, particularly in their new application to wooden pavements, which need so much improvement in their mode of construction, might well take a lesson. To return to the disease prevalent along this ancient via, the Pontine Marshes, and the Campania, it bears a striking analogy to the severe forms of Bilious Autum nal Remittent, constantly met with on the river bot toms, bayous, savannas, everglades, lake-shores, and, in deed, in all marshy and swampy situations in our own country ; with this difference, that the class of persons who are the subjects of it on the Campania, and who are chiefly peasants, are, by their poverty and uncom fortable condition of life, and from being both badly fed and clothed, more Uable to have it terminate with thera in typhoid and malignant symptoms than the subjects of it in our country, where no such class of indigence and abject want, in truth, exists. The Roman noblesse are obUged to abandon these princely villas on the Campania during the sickly sea son, and, as with us, flee to the cities, as the most salu brious places of shelter. The same rule ought to be ROME. 121 observed always in our own country, as it is, in fact, in most of the Southern States, where it is proverbially known that the planters never think of leaving the cities on the coast untU the black frost or ice has destroyed the germe of the deleterious miasms in their country re treats, or sand hUls in the pine forests that abound aU along the broad aUuvial margin of our Southern coast With the exception of the occasional prevalence of yellow fever, the cities of our Atlantic seaboard are al ways more healthy in autumn than the adjacent coun try, districts ofthe inland. A fact that cannot be too strongly urged upon our countrymen, as one which I have had ample opportuni ties to confirm both at home and abroad. A mystery which has ever enshrouded the laws of these endemial marsh fevers is, that even in the locali ties where it prevails, though the situations may appa rently be perfectly similar, the disease will be peculiarly malignant and rife in one vUla, while another, almost contiguous, wiU entirely escape ; and that viUas also lo cated on hills or elevated situations upon these plains, do not thereby enjoy any immunity ; all of which pe culiarities constitute a problem in this type of fever which has never yet been solved. Such is the terror of the Romans at this malaria of the Campania, and its malignancy, that they are no more wiUing to visit the regions where it prevails, than an American from the interior of the country would con sent to expose his person to a city infected with yelloui fever. I was even cautioned against passing through these unhealthy districts with more earnestness than I afterward was against entering the plague regions of the East Although there are no cordons sanitaires of quar antine regulations, intercepting the communication with a 122 ROME. the Campania, the dreaded apprehension of visiting this quarter by the Romans was far greater than I after ward found the Arabs evinced towards cities infected with the plague. The absence of any quarantine pre cautions in reference to the malarious disease, indicates, as is the fact, that the Romans do not believe it con tagious, however fatal it may be to those exposed to the immediate action of the local causes. Whereas the adoption of the sanitary police in reference to the plague among the Arabs, proves their fuU conviction, however erroneous, of the contagious character of that disease, and of its power of reproduction through huraan effluvia from one person to another. Though the Campania was always celebrated for its fertility, we are borne out in our belief of its insalubrity from the earhest periods of Roraan history, by what occurred during the short reign of less than three years of the Emperor Titus. Not only was this tract con vulsed by earthquakes during the dreadful eruption of Vesuvius, but also desolated by famine and a frightful mortality, so that the inhabitants fled to Rome for safety — more prudent then than many of them now. The mortality, we have no doubt, was of the same nature, and from the same malarious causes in operation to-day. Upon what grounds Phny should have deemed it so salubrious as to exclaim " Felix iUa .Campania," &c., we cannot divine. We proceeded now upon our route to Naples. On leaving the Pontine Marshes, which are a continuation of the Campania di Roma, and, though covered with stagnant lagunes, not more unhealthy than the plains of Campania, we entered the ancient town of Terracina, which, though it existed in the days of Horace, does not appear, from its diminutive size and the brigand ROME. 123 physiognomy of its inhabitants, to have merited the en comiums bestowed upon it as a naval depot and fortified position of great strength. The Emperor Galba was born near this town. It was upon the afternoon of this day that we were as tonished with the sight of Vesuvius in full eruption. On reaching Mola di Gaeta we did httle else but stare at the distant wonder ; and looking from the windows of the hotel across the sea, we saw the fire spouting far up in the air, and reflected on the water, forming a wake hke the rays of the moon. If ever a Roman viUage became pre-eminently degen erated in the character of its population, it is Terra cina ; for I never beheld an asserablage of beings who, in forra, feature, and costume, more completely realized my idea of bandits and cutthroats than did the inhabi tants of this place. We do not at all wonder that it was chosen as the scene of Fra Diavolo. On arriving at Aquapendens, I could but reflect that this was once the theatre of action for that celebrated anatomist, dignified for his eminence and achievements in anatomy and surgery in ancient times with the gran diloquent epithet of Fabricius ab Aquapendente. It would puzzle a modern, in looking around this forlorn and in significant hamlet, to imagine by what opportunities Fa bricius could have ever attained, from anything connect ed with this spot, his rank and •distinction as a profes sional man. The day before reaching Naples I lodged in a man sion built on the spot which is said to have been the country-seat or villa of Cicero. There is a tomb there, or a monument, which they point to as having once contained the ashes of the immortal orator. It is in a beautiful location, on a high ground upon the shores of the Mediterranean. 124 ROME. On reaching Naples, on the foUowing evening, we found crowds looking anxiously at the burning mount ain, from which a wide river of lava descended in a line towards the city. Another stream threatened the little village of Resina ; and though very anxious to watch the progress of the sublime spectacle, weariness obliged me to retire to rest, and I went to bed with re ports like cannon ringing in my ears. We avail ourselves with great pleasure of the manu script journal of one of our party, and to whose memo randums we have been much indebted throughout our travels, for the foUowing graphic account of the visit to Vesuvius during this memorable eruption. "About 6 P.M. of the foUowing day we started for Vesuvius. A ride of six miles brought us to Resina, where we took horses and commenced the ascent. We had a guide, and there were five of us in company, with a blazing volcano in our faces. " Our horses, though spirited enough, went very re luctantly ; and as we neared the lava they would turn and run down the mountain, at the imminent risk of our necks. Whips and spurs again brought them back The scene was now the most animating and exciting imaginable. I defy the most vivid imagination to de pict what was now presented around and above us. The night was dark as Erebus, so that the immense sheet of spouting fire was brought into bold rehef against the sky, while the torchlights around us (those who carried them being invisible) were not the least anima ted part of the scene. " We heard the shouts of raen whora we could not see. A river of lava was rolling towards us at the rate of two and a half miles an hour — so we were told — as also that it could not touch us under any circumstances ; ROME. 125 neither of which statements could or did we believe. The thundering noise above us increased, so that our horses vvould no longer carry us ; and such of us as were not already thrown off here dismounted, and stood on ground which burned our feet, though armed with thick boots for the occasion. The earth grumbled and so shook beneath us that one of my companions, in stepping from one rock to another, feU three feet wide of the mark. The cry now was that the lava was cross ing the road beneath us. We knew there were other means of getting down without going by the road, and were not to be frightened, though most of our party here left us. We who remained now started for the Hermitage, jumping from rock to rock, or, rather, cin der. All upon which we trod had been thrown from the crater in the present eruption, though at this mo ment the wind carried everything to the opposite side, towards Torre del Greco. Slow progress did we make ; and on a sudden ascent of 100 feet or so, we were not a little frightened to find our farther advance cut off by another stream of lava, I should think about twenty yards wide. Here was a daraper: nothing but red, glowing lava before us. We had no other alternative than to retrace our steps, with ashes now blowing in our eyes, from a slight change of wind, and with the farther indications also of cinders, some of which were as large as chain-shot After much consultation, we doubtingly placed our feet on the partly cooled stones which had been washed down with the river of lava over which we had to cross. We succeeded to admi ration ; and, with boots burned up and canes reduced to cinders, with the perspiration dripping from every pore, we found ourselves on terra firma, and again surrounded by the more enterprising EngUsh, French, and Italians here congregated. 126 ROME. " We were now about one and a half miles from the crater of the volcano, two from Resina, and half a mUe from the base of the cone. Secure in the companion ship of those around us, we stood here till late in the night, watching the ever-varied form of the raass of fire thrown up frora the mouth of the crater, presenting the most terrific spectacle I ever beheld. " Sometimes the noise was nearly deafening ; then it would die away to a hissing sound. When the stones were sent up the most, there was a sound like a black smith's beUows — to compare a mountain to a molehill. We now again mounted our horses and descended to Resina, racing it nearly the whole way. We arranged the dollars and cents with the guide, again took the car riage, and reached Naples at dawn. "After a few hours' rest, sharing to the full in the uni versal excitement, we again set out for the burning mountain ; took horses at Resina, and our guide, the well-known Salvator, as on the previous day. One of the more enterprising of our party was persuaded to mount a dashing-looking quadruped, on the assurance of his owner that he would beat all the rest. As soon as the boy let go the bridle, the animal commenced a series of manoeuvres, such as it would be difficult for any other than an Italian horse to imitate. He tipped up simultaneously fore and aft ; he kicked up and came down upon his knees; plunged and jumped sideways like a goat. At length the girth broke as weU as the bridle ; and just as the rider, though an expert eques trian, had lost aU power over him, he concluded to stop. Half a dozen ragged rascals now juraped forward, and, putting ropes over his head, held him till his rider dis mounted. After putting all things straight, they had the impudence to urge my firiend to get on again, assu- ROME. 127 ring him that it was only a playful way the creature had. Anybody else, we think, would have been thrown at the risk of their necks. A capital substitute, however, was now found in a fine animal which the dueen-dowager of England had ridden a few weeks before in her as cent to the mountain, and with which addition we now- got under way. We overheard the rascally lazaroni marvelling much that the gentleman did not get his neck broken, as the horse was a notoriously vicious animal, which even they theraselves never ventured to ride. The owner, however, had the modest assurance to de mand money for his services. " We passed over the lava which had crossed the road the night before, and which was now hard on the sur face, and in that shape of indurated, partially metallic matter called obsidian. Not without ranch urging did our horses do this, treading quickly on the stiU heated mass as if they were walking on coals of fire. Ten minutes brought us to the other side of this petrified river, and a farther ride of a mile brought us to the Her mitage, which we were unable to reach the night before, and which we found occupied by three or four monks. Here we took a sedan for one of the party, who was injured in the race we took down the mountain the evening previous. A ride of a raile over a road now covered with cinders brought us to the spot where horses can go no farther— ^being at the foot of the cone of the crater — where we disraounted. Ten or a dozen ragged fellows had accompanied us thus far, and now urged us to take their sticks, ropes, &c. ; declining all which, one of the party and myself, with no other in formation than to keep near the lava, commenced the steep ascent. " The volcano was yet in violent commotion, not 128 ROME. emitting lava, but everything else in enormous quanti ties. It was up two steps and down one for half the ascent, when we gladly gave our overcoats to the boys, and accepted all the assistance they could give us. We stopped every fifty yards or so to rest and admire the noble view of the city, bay, and islands. Summoning all our strength for a last effort, we reached the top of the cone, as thoroughly tired as I ever remember to have been. But we were amply repaid for our fatigue by the glorious scene before us. We were now stand ing on the ridge of the crater formed in the eruption which, over 1800 years ago, buried Herculaneum and Pompeii. For a hundred yards before us was a level plain, covered with rocks and cinders thrown out in the present eruption, while beyond, at the distance of 120 yards from where we stood, was the volcano itself, emit ting fire, and smoke, and stones, in masses wholly in conceivable even to the beholder at Naples. The smoke was so dense and black that it appeared as if we could cut it The bursting of the stones and the forked light ning through the mass of smoke, visible even under the broad glare of a noonday sun, strongly reminded me of one of our raost terrific thunder-storms. The spouting masses of vermilion-coloured fire was to be likened to nothing that we had ever beheld. The showers of small stones and immense rocks were not the least frightful part of the glowing picture before us. " One by one the party now came straggling up the mountain and stood beside us. Three of us of the more enterprising, with the guide, determined to cross to the new crater ; and off we started on this raost rash and headlong undertaking, the guide following cautiously far behind. We now stood upon the very innermost verge of the new crater, formed during the preceding week, ROME. 129 and, looking into the horrid abyss, saw the fire roll down the sides to the red, agitated sea of lava beneath. A fall of a stone or cinder would remove the earth from a spot, and then the fire would show itself beneath, and, in some instances, boil over and roll down the sides within. The lava has not in this, nor ever in previous eruptions, overfb^ved the tops of the mountain ; but, after boiling and throwing out earth and rocks for several days, and the various forms of ashes caUed tufa, the sides of the volcano within are in some places worn to a mere shell, when the hot, molten liquid finally bursts through and runs out like a river, graduaUy enlarging the aperture, until it forms a deep cut to the summit or lips ofthe cone. " The wind blew strongly to our backs, and kept the ashes and cinders from falling on us. These were thrown towards Torre del Greco. The stones, too, for some time, were projected in the same direction. Get ting now more and more confident, one or two others of the party, who, with the guide, had all lagged behind, gradually arrayed themselves beside us. As the smoke for a moment cleared away and revealed the wonders below, one of our companions was so affected that I thought he would faint He soon recovered himself on shutting his eyes, and made a hasty retreat, not once stopping or looking back till he had achieved the long descent of the mountain. Meantime we were placed in a trying situation. An opening from the other side of the crater suddenly commenced sending up a cloud of stones and rocks, which came directly towards the spot on which we were standing. Some of these missUes were propeUed to the height of 2000 feet in the air, and I thought there would be time to avoid them by a hasty retreat. This intention the terrified guide stopped by his violent gestures (we could not hear his voice) ; and, R 130 ROME. following his example, we stood still amid the faUing shower, and, with eyes in the air, dodged the rocks and stones successively as they fell. It was useless to run, for more fell behind than before us. None of us were injured, though there were pieces of rock as large as a hat which feU within a few feet of us. Now that there was an opportunity, from a slight intermission, we scarce ly breathed, in our rapid retreat, till we found ourselves beyond danger. " A half hour spent on the outer crater, which we had now reached, gave one of our party and myself courage again to approach the volcano, though this time we had none to accompany us, and the guide caUed those around to testify that he would not answer for or hold himself culpable in the rash act we were about to undertake. Again we stood where none had stood before us in the present eruption. Long did we watch the clouds of smoke and fire ; the former filled with forked lightning, and issuing in such masses as to obscure the bay and city, forming one dense, black line of clouds as fctr as the eye could reach. The sun had a sickly glare, and was for the most part now wholly invisible. There was not now that sound of thunder, whicli had become familiar to us, but a hissing noise almost as deafening as the former, resembling that made by the wind when violently forced through a narrow aperture. These explosions had the old accompaniraents of cinders, ashes, rocks, and lava, though, providentially, they did not happen to fall on our side " We again retraced our steps to the outer crater, and, stopping a raoment to rest on an immense rock, which had no appearance of heat, were badly burned be fore we could rise from our new position. This rest- ROME. 131 ing-place, which we had incautiously chosen, could not have been thrown out more than two hours. '• Thoroughly tired, I threw myself on the ashes. Those who had not been frightened down the mount ain did the same, and called for the et ceteras we had brought along for dinner. The boys cooked eggs in the ashes near us. Bread, butter, wine, and grapes formed the tout ensemble of a capital repast. We were just congratulating ourselves that our appetites were satiated, inasmuch as there was nothing more to eat, when we were brought to a sudden stop by a show er of stones sent towards us, and covering the place where we had previously stood a few minutes before, on the inner crater, with one solid mass of rocks. One of these stones fell within four feet of where we were just finishing our dinner. It was as large as a hat, and half buried itself in the sand. This bomb from the re gions of Pluto was rather too rauch, and we descended the cone of the raountain a little quicker than it was ever done before, and, raounting our horses, we soon found ourselves in Resina, where the carriage awaited us ; seating ourselves in which, we reached our hotel in Naples as they were lighting the lamps." 132 NAPLES. NAPLES. Naples is located on the declivity of an extensive hill, and reaches from its summit to the margin of the bay. On entering the gate near the most elevated part of the old city, the coup d'osil, as is proverbially known, is grand and beautiful, comprising a complete view of the town, which stretches around in a semicircular man ner like a vast amphitheatre. Besides the view of the city, you have the superb and widely-extended bay be fore you, and the islands of Capri and Ischia at its en trance. On the left, at a little distance from the dense part of the city, are seen the two eminences of Vesu vius ; one long since extinct, leaving only the shell of a crater; the other a truncated cone, now, since the terrific eruption we have just described, again calm and tranquil, and emitting only a thin, spiral column of smoke, scarcely visible from the deep brilliancy bf the blue sky beyond. This city is by far the largest and most populous in Italy, containing over 400,000 inhabitants. The older and upper parts are compact and densely populated, with extremely narrow streets to exclude the sun, as is the usage in all Southern Europe ; an admirable arrange ment to obtain a cool and pleasant shade, but one which, by crowding the masses of the inhabitants into too close proximity, is calculated to aggravate the malignancy and multiply the extension of a contagious or infectious dis ease when introduced. A fact that must be familiar to those who recall the ravages of yellow fever some years back in the cities on the Mediterranean coast of Spain, NAPLES. 133 Cadiz, Gibraltar, Malaga, Barcelona, &c. And the same may be said of that pestUence in its more fatal progress in the more densely-populated quarters of our own cities on the Atlantic coast* There is one wide and principal street extending through the old part of the city, and terminating at the palace in the direc tion of the bay. The new part of Naples is truly superb, and merits all the encomiums that have been lavished upon it. In front of it, directly on the bay, is a beautiful public promenade, tastefully ornamented with trees and shrub bery. This is called the Chieija ; and the houses and comfortable accommodations here are such as to cause it to be selected as the place of residence by aU strangers and travellers who visit this city. This new portion of Naples, forming on the bay an other segment, as it were, of a circle, is peculiarly weU adapted for invalids, on account of its being sheltered from the cold northers by the abrupt ascent of the hUl above. In this beautiful climate of Naples, with its balmy air, but not with skies more serene than our own, and never with the rich tints of our autumnal leaf, all nature seems to smile, and the very " Air breathes wooingly," to court the languid invalid to its delicious repose. It is unquestionably, of aU parts of Italy I have visited, the one I should prefer as a residence for invalids from the North affected with pulmonary complaints. Even in the earhest times it was as celebrated as now for its bright skies and balmy air, whither the rich from Rome resorted to enjoy luxurious indolence and the ele- * See works of Blane, Fellowes, Pym, Gilpin, Bally, Pariset, Audouard, Town- send, Hosack, &c., on Yellow Fever. 134 NAPLES. gant gayeties and refinement which its polished inhabi tants, who are of Greek origin, maintained for centu ries. The Consul Claudius and the Eraperor Nero were among those who made this city and its environs their favourite residence. Independent of its well-known equableness and mild ness of climate, and the beauty of the surrounding coun try, it possesses peculiar attractions in its public estab lishments, and especially in its Museo-Borbonico of an tiques from Pompeii, Herculaneum, and other ancient places in the neighbourhood. In the saloons of this wonderful collection, furnishing exhaustless resources of gratification to the inquiring mind, a literary man might most agreeably beguile away his time without danger of ennui, and in the acquisition of curious information. Incredible as it may appear, it is not to be denied that the proportion of affections of the chest are quite as common here among the inhabitants, and the mortal ity as great, as in the city of New- York. This may seem strange language ; but it must be recoUected, that although the climate of Naples, taken throughout the season, merits aU the eulogiums that have been bestowed upon it for its mild and moderate ranges of tempe'rature and clear weather, contrasted with our own Protean and boisterous latitudes, yet to the enervated inhabitants, and especially to the poor, half-naked peasants and laz aroni, herding by hundreds as they lay along the bay basking in the sun, ever happy, ever singing, even in their rags, the changes of temperature from the chiUing blasts of the tramontane winds and the damp sirocco or southwest from the Mediterranean, are exceedingly per nicious. Though the vicissitudes are not by any means as excessive as ours, still on the native they produce effects fully as disastrous in disturbing the equilibrium NAPLES. 135 of the circulating fluids, and causing sudden revulsions and defluxions upon the chest and respiratory passages. And I think one reason why traveUers and invalids from colder countries are not so frequently subject to the influence of these changes as the natives, is, that their constitutions are more or less inured to severe atmo spheric changes, and that they keep their apartments more comfortable, and take the precaution to guard themselves better with suitable clothing. Besides pulmonary affections, and occasionally an outbreak of typhus in the more confined habitations of the poor, there are few or no diseases prevalent at any time in this city, which may certainly be pronoun ced, therefore, eminently salubrious. There is, however, enough of the materiel of disease to have given occasion for the erection of a large hos pital, under exceUent regulations, and for a respectable medical school connected with it Among the physicians attached to the latter is Profes sor Quadri, one of the most distinguished surgeons in Ita ly, \\is forte being particularly in the ophthalmic branches. In this metropolis of nearly half a million of inhabitants, and necessarUy, therefore, subject frequently to casualties for surgical practice, we could find no trace whatever of the great and capital operations of modern times ever having reached this part of Italy. The field of surgery, it is true, for want of extensive commerce, is somewhat limited here, excepting for what may dehcately be called punctured wounds ; I mean those ofthe stiletto, the weap on of the ItaUan's revenge, though certainly incompar ably less bloody than our faraous Bowie-knife, or the CuchUla and machetta ofthe Spaniards. These wounds, it may be observed, happen most frequently during the feuds among the common people ; and, though seldom 136 NAPLES. fatal, are frequently, in this warm climate, foUowed by tetanus and sometimes by death. In traveUing through this renowned country, whose history is so interwoven with that of all others that bor der the Mediterranean, and with the greatest portion of Europe, extended and almost universal as was once the mUitary sceptre of Rome over the nations of the earth, I confess that I looked in vain for those evidences of advancement in raedical science, which I might well have cherished the hope to meet in the land which gave birth to Morgagni and to Scarpa, to Mascagni and Toramasini. Though but few years have elapsed since the death of the famous surgeon Scarpa, and that Tora masini still sustains the reputation which his country acquired in later centuries in the healing art, but little or no progress has been made in the adoption of those discoveries and processes of operation and treatment which are now in common use in most parts of Europe and America. The Campo Santo, or Public Cemetery for the Poor, in Naples, is situated between the city and Vesuvius, on a considerable elevation, and seemed to me, in its gen eral construction, particularly worthy of imitation for our country, as well as for every other. It is a large enclo sure, surrounded by a massive wall at least twelve to fifteen feet high ; and the most siraple and chaste order is observable in its interior arrangements. Nothing was seen but long rows of flat stone slabs, with the single inscription on each that denoted the day of the year to which it was appropriated. Thus there are 365 vaults, of large dimensions and of great depth, and one is opened for each day of the year. The great advantage to public health of this mode is that each vault, with all the bodies deposited in it, is at the close of the day se- NAPLES. 137 cured and cemented for the whole subsequent year. On the day that I visited the Campo, eleven had already been deposited in the vault for that day, and, upon my looking into it, I found aU those bodies in a perfect state of nudity, and of both sexes and all ages. With the aid of a small douceur, I succeeded in having the vault of the previous day unsealed for me, where the same appearance of the bodies was presented, there be ing fifteen in number, which was the amount of inter ments for that day. I confess that even to me, habitu ated from early life to the sight of dead bodies, and to scenes of agony and suffering in the living subject, the irreverence shown even to the poor and friendless dead, by divesting them of all covering, and throwing thera peUraell into a confused heap, was revolting in the great est degree to my feelings, however much I raight approve of the general plan of the construction of the cemetery. I was yet more shocked when, upon looking down into the vault which had been opened for rae, I saw beneath the bodies and all around countless quantities of bones, the harvest of Death's conquests in years gone by, and the more rapidly, no doubt, disencumbered of their flesh by the quantities of quicklime thrown in, and by the thousands of crawling reptiles, which, to add horror to the spectacle, were seen busily engaged in their dread ful vocation in every direction. I did not omit, of course, to visit those two great ob jects which no other part of the world possesses but Naples, and which are its greatest attraction to all trav ellers. I mean Herculaneum and Pompeii, those two ancient cities of the Roman era, which, after being overwhelmed by Vesuvius during the .short but meraor- able reign of Titus, and hermetically sealed up, as it were, for 1900 years, as precious mementoes or raedal- S 138 NAPLES. lions, that were to convey to us the only facsimile of real hfe, as it existed in that remote period, have been within our own age discovered and exhumed for the inspection of mankind. But for these, all the records and monuments preserved of the past had failed entirely to furnish to the moderns, even when enhghtened by the researches of the most profound antiquarians and scholars, anything like a true interpretation of the ac tual social condition of man under the Roman empire. Here we have it, however, complete in every detail, and bursting upon us in a flood of light that has not only supplied chasms in our knowledge to which we possess ed no clew, but afforded the most satisfactory explana tions that could be desired to passages in the Roman historians, dramatists, and poets, as well as to the frag ments of sculpture and architecture elsewhere found, that otherwise would have been forever unintelligible. How charmingly has the enchanting pen of Bulwer availed itself of this magic key, to unlock the history of the past to the rich resources of his fancy. It has ena bled him to clothe and give life to these sacred relics, and to infuse into them, though themselves but mute chron iclers, such fires of eloquence, and such prolific incident and pleasing verisimihtude, that he has brought us, as it were, into a fireside and familiar converse with that he roic people, whose domestic history had tUl now been a sealed book, that had wrought intense and absorbing interest for ages upon the unsatisfied curiosity. And with what classical taste and exquisite art have the more remarkable treasures and choicest relics of painting and mosaic, both in Pompeii and Herculaneum, been faith fully and most beautifully delineated, and thus perpetu ated and multiphed for the gratification of the world, in the matchless work by Sir William Gell. NAPLES. 139 .We went first to Herculanteum, that being nearest to the city of Naples, and, in fact, in its immediate envi rons. The town of Portici stands upon the indurated black mass of lava, which constitutes, so to speak, the sar cophagus of Herculaneum. The lava in which this city was entombed soon after the beginning of the Christian era, is of a hard, rocky texture, whicli makes it exceed ingly difficult for the labourers, though they have been at work for many years, to make much progress in their excavations. It is believed by some that Herculaneum was not so suddenly overwhelmed as Porapeii, and not by lava, properly so called, but by a species of liquid mud, formed by the congealed ashes in the higher re gions of the atmosphere, thrown down in successive de- posites, and afterward firmly consolidated. For, if the first substratum, at least, had been red-hot lava, the paintings discovered would not have been in such per fect preservation ; though it appears that a large portion of the rolls of papyri, as the manuscripts found have been called, were so charred as to resist nearly aU at tempts, even those of Sir Humphrey Davy, to decipher them. Herculaneum is believed to have been a Greek city, and extremely ancient It is noticed as a curious coincidence, that the depth of the superincumbent lava is exactly 79 feet, being the number of the year of Christ on which the fatal eruption occurred which bu ried this city beneath it, during the reign of Titus. More remarkable and appaUing events were concentra ted in the short space of two years and three months that comprised the reign of this celebrated emperor, than occurred during any one century of the Roman empire. While yet a youth he razed Jerusalem to the ground, and for this act was honoured with the title of Csesar, and permitted to ride in the chariot by the side of his 140 . NAPLES. father, tbe Emperor Vespasian, in a triumphal procession through, the streets of Rome. His general, Agricola, discovered that Great Britain was an island, and com pleted the conquest of that people. The terrible erup tion, too, occurred of Mount Vesuvius, that overwhelm ed Herculaneum and Pompeii, and convulsed aU Cam pania with earthquakes ; succeeded by a universal drought, famine, and pestilence, in which 10,000 per sons died daily at Rome. A fire, also, broke out at Rome, which destroyed the Pantheon, the Capitolium, and the Octavian Library ; but nothing daunted by this, he soon after completed, by aid of the 30,000 captives he caused to be brought from Jerusalem, the magnificent amphitheatre, now called the Coliseum, begun by his father. Thus reigned and died, in the midst of short and tragic, but brilliant and thrilling events, the Emper or Titus. You descend into Herculaneum by torchlight through a dark, spiral passage which has been excavated in the town of Portici, and alight upon the remains of a street in the ancient city. The building which has been most successfully disinterred is an immense theatre, from which have been taken those two beautiful equestrian statues which grace the entrance of the museum at Naples. While rambling about through that subterranean city, we heard the noise of the carriages above, passing through the streets of Portici, like the roaring of distant thunder. It is not probable that any great discoveries wiU be made here, as the removal of the lava is attended almost with as much difficulty as if it were a mass of solid metal ; as it contains, in truth, a large quantity of fus^ metallic matter, which gives it great tenacity as well as hardness. NAPLES. 141 Passing along to the other side of Vesuvius, we arri ved at the wonderful ruins of Pompeii, situated on a smaU plain, which extends from the foot of the mount ain to the margin of the bay. Of all the melancholy spectacles I ever beheld, nothing in solemnity can be more impressive than this unburied city of the past, presented to us almost perfect and entire in all its parts, and in form and substance as palpable and real as on that fatal day when it was suddenly entorabed beneath the clouds of ashes and cinders that were eraitted from the crater of the mountain at whose base it had so long reposed in tranquil security. There have been but 60 skeletons discovered, and the conjecture, therefore, would appear to be that the in habitants had nearly all fled from the city on the very first agitation ofthe crater. The destruction of Pompeii was not so sudden but that most of the inhabitants had time to escape, and to carry with them most of their valuables ; which accounts for the fact that very little of intrinsic value has yet been discovered. Sorae* however, Uke the sentinel on the ramparts of a besieged fortress, born and brought up as they were in the immediate proximity of the volcano, must doubtless have become in a measure insensible or indifferent to danger, which may account for the fact, that when this place was excavated some of the skeletons in the houses and streets were observed to be in a position that indi cated that they were destroyed in the very midst of their accustomed occupations and pleasures. In one palace, however, a female was found in a gal lery in the evident act of escaping with her infant in her arms. She was supposed to have been a person of rank, as a rich bracelet was found upon her. From what we saw we should presume that the death of all the inhab- 142 NAPLES. itants that remained must have been almost instantane ous, and, therefore, without much suffering ; as the ashes and sand are so exceedingly fine that even the wine-jars and other small vessels were uniformly found filled with these volcanic materials. They appear to have penetra ted into the minutest recesses and fissures; and thus must have in the same manner, no doubt, entered the respiratory organs, and caused immediate suffocation, leaving no time for the slightest agony. The opinion that the population were at the theatre at the raoment of the awful visitation is not credited by the learned and acute Professor Anthon. The houses, much to the surprise even of antiquarians, who had heretofore thought themselves most informed on the subject, are of one story only, and exceedingly diminutive, scarcely larger, in fact, than a modern log- cabin in our own country, though built of stone. I rec ollect only one instance of a house in which I ascend ed by a stairway to something like an apology for a second story. The houses of the more wealthy classes are, it is true, of larger dimensions, and have i greater number of rooms, but still are cramped and confined, and generally of only one story. We believe we may except one building only, which is the supposed man sion of Diomede, and is coraposed of three small sto ries. The apartments are always diminutive, but the walls often most richly ornamented in mosaic and paint ings, and the floors in the larger houses frequently of en tire mosaic of the most beautiful workmanship. The bathing arrangements are of the most luxurious kind, and constructed of marble of the finest texture and whiteness. There are numbers of buildings in marble, which, from the character ofthe statuary found in them, were evident ly places of worship, or where the priests made their sac- NAPLES. 143 rifices and performed their mummeries. Both theatres and amphitheatres are found in these extensive ruins, which cover a large space of ground ; and stiU but a small portion of the city, it is beheved, is yet exposed. The government is constantly occupied in removing the ashes, which generally appear to be in a stratum of less than 20 feet depth ; enough, however, to have crushed in, in every instance, the flat, terraced roofs of aU the houses. The excavation is effected with great facihty, as the volcanic matter is aU of a loose, light texture. Such is the value attached to all that relates to Porapeii by the gov ernment, that the king has instituted a system ofthe most rigid regulations in respect to the workmen. Those who are employed in the digging, and even the cicero- nes who conduct the visiters, are sworn not to permit even the smallest fragment of marble or mosaic to be carried away, under the heaviest penalties. I offered as a bribe to one of the persons employed a small sum for a single human bone as a souvenir of the spot ; but was unable to procure even this trifling memento of some one of the skeletons, which, doubtless, when cloth ed with mortality, may have defended the eagles of their country, and shared in the glories ofthe Roman empire ; for there were no exempts among the conscripts, centu rions, and cohorts of those days ; and that Roman citi zen would almost scorn to live who was not permitted to bear the helmet and the falchion-blade in the main tenance of the extended military power which this war like people had obtained at the era of the destruction of Pompeii. The soil around is extremely fertile, producing on the very margin of the excavations the most luscious grapes and wine. The streets are small and generally irregu lar, but paved with large flat stqnes of various shapes. 144 NAPLES. without any particular order in the arrangement, differ ing in this respect from all the modern cities of Italy ; yet in this very particular reserabling the celebrated Appian Way, at least in those parts of this road that are now visible. In the largest streets, all of which are paved with lava and have narrow side-walks, I observed the raarks of chariot wheels, the grooves being in some instances from four to five inches deep, and generally not raore than two feet apart, showing that their vehicles, as, in truth, we already knew by many pictorial and bas- relief representations, and by one of these identical go- carts of iron, found in Pompeii and preserved in the mu seum, must have been very small and narrow, and prob ably destined to carry only one individual. I was in a number of small houses along the streets, which were evidently wine-shops, as I judged from the large marble counters, as in our modern bar-rooms, having deep marks upon thera, that raust have been made by drinking- vessels, or intentionally so grooved for the re ception of such vessels. One of the things which interested me particularly, M'as the remains of what appeared to be the office or shop of a professional medical man. Among the arti cles found were forceps of different descriptions, and various other surgical instruments, all rudely constructed of iron. In some of them we saw the originals of cer tain instruments which have been claimed by moderns as their own invention. We could particularly notice the straight catheter, and others nearly so. This awk ward form of instrument, we could readily believe, might belong to these ancient people ; but how a modern sur geon could so far forget the light of anatomical struc ture as to retrograde in his practice 1900 years, and employ straight instruments in crooked passages, is what we have always been surprised at. NAPLES. 145 The culinary utensils found in Pompeii are of an ex traordinary finish, and some of them evince a luxurious taste in gastronomical arrangements which would ap pear to be more refined than that of the most recherche restaurateur at Paris. In the place of the rude imple ments that we consign to the kitchen, the inborn classic taste of this people entered even into this department, and every object used was constructed after models that had beauty of form as well as utUity to recommend thera. One contrivance, we must confess, appeared to us par ticularly worthy of adoption in our cold climate. It was a plateau of metal, destined to contain hot water, and so arranged as to hold apparently the entire dinner service, and preserve the whole in a heated temperature. Hot water tin baths for each dish and tin covers are, in fact, now in general use by the moderns, particularly in our own numerous elegant hotels in this country. In passing onward into Calabria from Porapeii^ we stopped for the night at Salernum, on the lovely bay of that name. Our interest was very much excited in this place by the recollection that it was here where, many centuries since, was begun what afterward became the most renowned medical .pchool of Europe ; but, melan choly to relate, not a single vestige or relic whatever remains, by which to identify or recall the former glo ries of this small village and of its celebrated university. From thence we journeyed on to visit the curious ruins at Psestum, which, though presenting columns and other remains of ancient temples in tolerable perfection, have perhaps proved a more knotty and puzzling question for solution to the inquiries of antiquarians than any other single architectural structure throughout all Italy. The style of architecture of these ruins is so different from anything Roman, and so nearly resembling the Grecian, T 146 NAPLES. that the best opinion inclines to the belief that Paestum was an ancient Greek colony. They are situated on low, marshy ground ; and, to judge by the demolished wall of the ancient city, it could scarcely have con tained over 1000 inhabitants, which itself would not seem to have warranted the construction of such costly temples. From the appearance of the present inhabitants around and about the ruins, I should judge this region to be exceedingly unhealthy. There was scarcely to be seen an individual, old or young, who did not bear evidences of having suffered from malarious influence. In many, the pale, bloated, or jaundiced features, and the dropsical effusions, denoted chronic, and, no doubt, while continuing in that locality, incurable indurations of the liver, and hypertrophy of the spleen. Such was the general morbid look of all the inhabitants of this marshy region, that I felt very unwilling to tarry longer there than was barely sufficient to inspect the ruins; and the inhabitants themselves, however much they might profit by the sojourn of strangers, were sufficiently magnanimous to advise us of the danger of remaining. Though this region is unquestionably marshy, it is not of that pestilential aspect of some of our sunken swamps ; yet it appeared to have the power of emitting some form of paludal exhalation of a most pernicious character. For I never saw in the same number of small, scattered population, in any locality, such univer sal indications of a virulent endemic atmosphere. And I have been in no place in all my travels, not excepting Egypt, where I have visited those sick of plague, that I felt such a keen desire to escape from danger as here. This anxiety was not a little increased by the intima tions thrown out, and which were corroborated by our NAPLES. 147 courier, that the moral atm'osphere hereabout was not less contaminated than the physical, as it appeared that hordes of bandits infested this region. An English gen tleman and his wife, on their travels, had been murder ed a short time before. The particulars of this incident were related to us, and are of thrilling interest. As the chief of the bandit leveUed his piece at the gentleman in his carriage, his wife threw her arms around her hus band, and the ball, after passing through her hand and his body, then penetrated her abdomen, and was lodged there. He died iraraediately, and she shortly after, in a hamlet that was pointed out to us. From this place we returned again to Naples. We now set out on another excursion, passing through the Grotto of Posilipo, a subterranean tunnel, the only egress from Naples in this direction. It is 2500 feet long, dark and cold. Emerging from this, the road pass es the island of Nisida, on which is the lazaretto. The next village was Pozzuoli or Puteoli, where Paul dis embarked, as did the embassy sent frora Carthage at the end of the second Punic war. WhUe our guide was procuring torches, &c., for future use, we visited the ruins of the temple of Jupiter Serapis, which, had I not seen so much in this way, I should have thought a wonderful structure. The ground has evidently sunk, as half the building is under water. Three iraraense columns alone are standing. We next passed a raount ain formed by volcanic agency in thirty-six hours ; then the Lucrine Lake ; then the Lake of Avernus, the Tar tarus of Virgil, over which birds could not fly from the noxious gas which covered it This was the fabled de scent to hell, and to which Virgil alludes in the well- known line, " Facilis descensus averni." 148 NAPLES. Pluto, Proserpine, and a host of other worthies were brought vividly to my recollection as so intimately asso ciated with the spot We now entered with torches the Grotto of the Curasean Sibyl, which was the de scent to Acheron, Styx, and, what was remarkable in the Roman mythology, the common track also to Ely sium. We soon came to water; and a black-looking feUow, half naked, stooped for me to mount his shoul ders, I carrying the torch. The fellow waded and wa ded, each step carrying me deeper into the water and cave. All things have an end, and so had this descent to Tartarus ; but a far less vivid imagination than mine might have fancied, from the ordeal I was passing through, that nothing short of Acheron or Purgatory would or could be the termination. Fortunately, the man concluded to stop in the Penetralia, where once sat the Cumaean Sibyl herself, who, as an oracle, was scarcely less celebrated than her prototypes of Delphi or Dodona. Those who wished to dive into futurity came from all quarters to consult this mystic shrine ; in cognizance of which, as another member of our party now joined me, we invoked a response, but, alas ! in vain, to our questions in reference to the perilous jour ney in the East upon which we were about to embark. Our torches burned dira as we reached the upper world ; and a sorry figure did we present, blackened by the smoke and sooty walls of the region below. The Grotta del Cane, famiharly known by the illus tration which it has so long afforded, in works of sci ence, of the fatal effects of the fixed air found in it, proved by confining dogs in this recess, and which gives it its name, is a small cavern or fissure in the calcareous strata in this region, within a few steps of the Lake of Avernus. NAPLES. 149 I was greatly disappointed in the grotto. It is little else than a smaU crevice in a rock, closed by a rough door ; and the lake nothing more than a shaUow pond, neither having about them the attributes of immortality. On reaching the cavern, accompanied by the keeper and his two little dogs, who appeared perfectly conscious of the disagreeable experiment they were about to be sub jected to, and fractious to a degree of rabidness, the door was opened, presenting in its blackened and sooty ceil ing and walls, and its small dimensions, the very coun terpart of one of our meanest country smokehouses. Below the level of the door may have been 12 or 15 inches, into which one of the animals, after a fierce re sistance, was forced by the guide. In a few seconds he gave evidences of asphyxia, and convulsions immediately after supervened, when he was removed and placed a short distance without the cavern upon the grass, where, in a few minutes, the convulsions ceased, and he became perfectly restored. The other dog was next placed in the cavern with his head raised a little above the level of the door-siU. No effect whatever was perceptible on his breathing. In this situation he was left a few minutes without the slightest inconvenience. His head was now depressed, and all the phenomena ensued as in the other animal, strikingly illustrating the specific gravity and ponderous character of the kind of gas, the carbonic acid gas or fixed air, found in such places, and that it always occupies the lowest situation. There is some thing, however, in the fanciful name of Grotta del Cane, or Dog's Grotto; for there is no old weU nor brew er's vat in any country that would not equally answer for these experiments, which, no doubt, could be prose cuted upon a StiU more comprehensive scale in some of the gigantic and yet unexplored subterranean caverns in 150 NAPLES. our Western States. I next entered the grotto myself, and with some little difficulty, as I was obliged to remain in a stooping posture, and found it scarcely wide enough to hold one person. While in this situation I tested the elevation of the carbonic acid gas with a lighted candle, and found the stratum was entirely confined to the depth of a few inches from the floor ; the candle burn ing very weU above that level, but being immediately extinguished when immersed below it I had no opportunity of testing whether the surface of the Lake of Avernus was covered with a stratum of some noxious gas, as it doubtless must have been in the time of Virgil, if his remark be true, that it proved fatal to birds that attempted to fly across it. A short ride now brought us to the ruined house and baths of Nero, through a narrow, winding passage, into which latter some of our party were indiscreet enough to enter, as it proved frora their hastening back almost suffocated, dripping from every pore, and their hands bUstered from the hot vapours and exhalations which are constantly issuing from the boiling springs within this volcanic recess, heated by subterranean fires, and which, established by Nero, have been used as valuable medici nal thermce ever since. We waited long for our friends graduaUy to cool, and then followed the carriage on foot to Baise. This an cient fashionable watering-place of the Roman noblesse presents a melancholy and desolate picture of a magnifi cent city in ruins ; not overlaid with lava or volcanic ashes, but submerged under the bright, transparent waters ofthe coral-bed of the Mediterranean, extending with the ancient mole as far out into the sea as the eye could reach. Here are the temples of Venus, Mercury, and Diana in ruins ; and not far distant is the Piscinae of Hortensius, NAPLES. 151 built to contain and purify water; an immense structure; and opposite is the Cape of Misenum, where the Roman fleet were anchored when the fatal eruption of Vesuvius took place, which, by means of the earthquake it produ ced, buried in a watery grqve the town of Baise, and by its shower of cinders and obsidian at the same moraent overwhelmed Pompeii and Herculaneum near the crater. The Solfatara near by is the best specimen that can be found of a " used-up" or worn-out volcano. Volcan ic matters of all kinds abound in and around it, and among them large quantities of native sulphur, as the name imports. From a view of this extinct crater and its neighbourhood, it is remarkable that its combustible materials should not have been ignited and consumed by external and accidental causes. Before leaving Italy, which we visited three times in the course of our absence abroad, it may naturally be expected of me to speak of it professionally, in more general terms, as a place of residence for invahds. We feel ourselves constrained to say that, in so far as regards its climate, as we have already casually men tioned in treating of different localities, its generally mild temperature, by promoting continued activity in the vessels of the skin, becomes thereby indirectly the predisposing source of mischief, from the frequent inter ruption or suppression the cutaneous functions are ex posed to from sudden atmospheric changes. The air is rather dry than humid, and the evil arises more partic ularly from the sudden reductions of temperature con stricting the pores of the surface, which are more or less open all the year round. Whereas in our chmate, though for a short season the heats are often excessive, and the transpiration, therefore, more profuse, and the depression of the thermometer, even in summer, often 152 NAPLES. carried to a far lower range, yet the sympathetic action of the cutaneous upon the other functions of the body is, in the aggregate, less with us than in Italy ; because during the far greater portion of the year in our climate, the circulation upon the ski^^ is comparatively dormant and suspended ; being thus wisely ordered, like the cov ered seeds of plants of cold latitudes, to accumulate heat in the interior of the body, and prevent its expenditure by evaporation from the surface. The sudden changes of temperature in Italy, though limited in extent, are, therefore, exceedingly pernicious, and they are caused by the cold blasts from the Alps and the Apennines alternating with the warmer, humid winds from the Mediterranean and the African coast In the beautiful and much-frequented localities of Nice and Genoa we have particularly noticed these changes. Their position is on the coast, imbosomed within and at the base of the steep declivities of the maritirae Alps, where these last and lower ranges touch the coast, and lave their foundations in the green waters of the Medi terranean. Facing the south gives them, also, by the reflected and confined rays of heat within their rocky bed, elevations of temperature more considerable than some other places in Italy. But they are constantly ex posed, at the same tirae, to the sharp, wintry blasts that come from the snow-covered ranges of mountains of greater altitude, that are always visible in their imme diate neighbourhood to the north, as they successively rise one above the other like an immense amphitheatre. We do not mean it to be understood, however, that we discourage a resort to Italy for the promotion of health. It possesses everywhere, in its classical beauties and ruins, charms which few other countries can boast of. Every few mUes opens some new and different ob- NAPLES. 153 ject of interest, some ancient memorial, or architectural or sculptural relic, of those hallowed ages when the Ro mans were masters of the world. And nothing certain ly can be more salutary, or even remedial, to the debil itated and wearied mind and exhausted body of the val etudinarian, than these constant and renewed sources of refreshing and agreeable excitement, operating through their moral influence upon the nervous system. On beauteous Italy, divine in the midst of her sad but glorious monumental ruins, and the yet more mournful ruins of her moral and political grandeur, the heart lin gers with sickening emotions. We sympathize with all her sorrow, and gaze upon her ancient temples and her triumphal arches as a part of our own heredita ments, because her history is closely interwoven with modern times. She is the last born and only surviving child of the mysterious past; the link that binds and unites our destiny and our race to the entire chain of human events, back to the ages that are lost in the im penetrable night of time. But it is a great error to suppose that Italy, with aU its fascinations, is suited to the pulmonary invalid. The constant anxiety he feels to visit and examine the an tiquities of a country that are exhaustless in variety and attractive beauty, and the intense excitement they occa sion when seen, as weU as the exposure and fatigue necessarily incurred in visiting them, are, from my own personal knowledge, often injurious to the health of such patients. It must, upon the slightest reflection, occur to the mind of every medical man, that hoemorrhages from the lungs wiU frequently be brought on in such patients under the circumstances we have described; a fact which we have positively known in that country, and which has aggravated the malady and expedited the fatal U 154 NAPLES. issue. Even where there is only a strong predisposi tion to an affection of the lungs, and no incipient dis ease, the symptoms may thereby become more speedily matured, and positive and fatal mischief be induced. But more especially where actual disorganization exists, the exciting causes before mentioned wiU be attended with pernicious consequences. If a pulmonary invalid from a colder country will travel in Italy without incurring exposure to the excite ments we have enumerated, he wiU find its mUd chmate admirably suited to the mitigation of his raalady ; far more so, as we have already explained, than to the na tive Italian afflicted with these complaints. In the great class of nervous affections, where much de bility exists, but unaccompanied with organic mischief, and especially when unconnected with, pulmonary dis ease, the peculiar attractions that are found in Italy are signally remedial and bracing, and invigorating in their influence upon the general health, as we have already remarked, by addressing theraselves to the moral and inteUectual faculties. Such an invaUd may reside for any length of time in any of the delightfnl cities of Italy, with great profit to his health. But far otherwise with the pulmonary man ; he, in our opinion, ought to pursue a very different course. His rule should be a constant change of place, and very little attention, much less close application, to the diversified novelties that present them selves in his travels. The exercise to his body in this chmate is far more important to him, than having his mind engaged in fatiguing excitements. Too much care cannot possibly be paid to this advice. As an illustration of the value of change of place for the pulmonary invalid, we may mention that the inhab itants of Lower Egypt, when threatened with disease of NAPLES. 155 the lungs, resort to Upper Egypt, Nubia, and Abyssinia for a change of chmate, and we know with decided ben efit The inhabitants of Nubia and Abyssinia, on the other hand, when labouring under the same affections, come down to the lower or alluvial country with equal advantage. There has been much of romance in the pictures that have been drawn of the climate and advantages of Italy. Whatever may be the malady of the patient, he must be prepared to meet with inconveniences which will con stantly remind him of what he has lost by leaving home. Except in the capital cities, but few houses wiU be found with any accommodations that merit the name of what we Anglo-Americans understand by the significant word comfort. Most of them, he will ascertain to his sorrow, are not provided even with the necessaries of life. He must, too, often expect to encounter, after a long day's travel, meager arrangements for fire to coun teract the chiU of the evening, and a cold stone floor instead of a cheering carpet to tread upon before he can reach his not less comfortless bed. I must here be permitted to protest against what I deem a reprehensible, if not cruel and wicked practice that some professional men faU into, of recommending or sanctioning, and sometimes even themselves urging the poor sufferer from pulmonary disease, after aU the resources of our art have faUed, to abandon his home, his family, and his friends, with the vain hope of recov ering his health in a foreign land. The moraent the disease appears to be confirmed, we have beUeved it to be our sacred duty to advise every patient to make him self as comfortable as possible in his own country, and within the immediate circle of his own family or rela tives, that he may partake, to the fuUest extent and up to 156 NAPLES. the last sad moments of his life, of all the rational and soothing enjoyments of their sympathies, and all the lux uries of home, rather than die in a land of strangers. We are aware that nothing is raore coramon than a fallacious and flattering hope, which a pulmonary pa tient is prone to indulge in, and that the future is always painted in his imagination with the warm and glowing tints and rainbow hues of a bright and glorious dawn, even when the night-pall of death is drawing its curtains around, and the unconscious victim has reached even the dark confines of the grave. And however painful to the medical attendant to do or say that which shall chill or dampen the sanguine and delightful anticipations of recovery in his patient, he has but one course to pursue, which is, to do his duty. MALTA. 157 MALTA. We next, in the order of progression of what is now, since the general introduction of steam upon the Med iterranean, becoming an everyday fashionable tour, em barked in a French steam-ship of war for Malta, so famed for its Knights ofSt John in the times of the cru saders. We passed by the Island of Stromboli at night, and saw the light of its volcano in active operation, re flected to a great distance upon the sea. We continued our course through the straits between Calabria and Sicily, passing by the classic rocks of Scylla and Cha- rybdis, which ancient poetry made so formidable to the inexperienced mariner, but which present to the eye no eddying currents or whirlpools at all comparable in fierceness, or impetuosity of movement, to our own un rivalled and domestic Hellgate, as it was graphically christened by our Dutch burgomasters of the olden time, who were never in the habit of caUing things by their wrong names. We shaU probably have our poets, too, in some future time, who will do justice to this extraor dinary natural curiosity, and make much better capital out of it than Virgil and others did of ScyUa and Cha- rybdis. For certain it is that the Pot, and Hog's Back, and Gridiron, are infinitely more dangerous ledges of sunken rocks, and exhibit a far more terrific spectacle at low tide, than anything we saw on the coast of Sici ly or Italy ; though they raay not yet have had a Vesu vius, a Stromboli, or an iEtna, to give interest to the surrounding scenery, otherwise as charmingly pictu resque, perhaps, as any spot in the world. Coasting by Sicily, we saw Syracuse and iEtna in 158 MALTA. the distance, and shortly after raade the Island of Malta. An incident here occurred which might have proved of fatal consequence to us all. By sorae unlucky accident, when arrived within five miles of the island, we found our coal nearly, gone ; and, to add to our misfortune, one of the boilers sprang aleak or burst, inundating the fire-room and after-cabin, and causing no small degree of consternation. It was somewhat ludicrous, in the midst of this actual danger, to observe its influence upon different temperaments. Our httle captain swore lustily, and commenced firing signals of distress. The French crew stood around with their hands in their pockets, ta king it very coolly, except every now and then damning the boUer because it was English, and swearing that if it had been French they could have run over the island "rough shod," with or without coal. Our motley group of passengers were most of them prodigiously alarmed ; and while some fortified their nerves with Dutch cour age in liberal potations of brandy and water, one of our countrymen, who had been familiar, probably, with some of the really terrific and murderous explosions frequent upon our American waters, and looked upon our present dUemma as a raere bagateUe, seized the leisure moment as a fitting occasion to book up his journal, untU the shipping of a heavy sea diluted his ink and knocked his pen from his hand. A steamer now happily came out to our relief, and we were soon aU safely under way for the port This island is little more than a rock in the ocean, and does not, therefore^ exhibit any remarkable appear ances of fertility. We entered by an extremely narrow pass, flanked on either side by high rocky chffs, and im mediately, as if by enchantment, a superb land-locked bay expanded before us," presenting on one side the town MALTA. 159 of Valetta, and, on the other, country vUlas and a large quarantine establishment, which, upon examination, we would pronounce by far the most capacious and best located and conducted of any we saw in the Mediter ranean. In this harbour we found ourselves safely moored in the midst of the heavy line-of-battle-ships or " wooden walls" of Old England ; Malta being a naval rendezvous of inconceivable importance to the British government; and its value infinitely enhanced by the .perfect secu rity and ample room and depth which its port offers, being sufficient to hold a vast fleet, and so sheltered as to afford complete protection from the dangers of the sea and from every wind. Though less capacious than many of the admirable harbours on the French coast, it is much better protected, and, taken altogether, is the finest harbour which we saw in the Mediterranean. In viewing the facUities which the French, and English, and Spanish possess for their naval armaments in these seas, we could not help but feel an ardent wish that our own cherished and gallant navy might also here find a safe abiding-place, and proudly see their own star-span gled banner floating on some elevated rock that they could call their own. The town of Valetta is situated upon a rocky prom ontory, and, though in sight of Sicily, presents in the character of its architecture the first evidences of an Oriental city. The population is made up of the great est imaginable medley of all nations, being a sort of half-way-house to the East From its being so great a resort of naval officers and of traveUers, it furnishes the best of society. To reach the town you ascend a cliff by a variety of curious steps cut in the rock, which are fatiguing and tedious. The population is very numer- 160 MALTA. ous, and in its aspect peculiarly picturesque, from the diversity of costumes and complexions of the different nations who reside here. By far the raost interesting object in this ancient and peculiar town, is the venerated Cathedral of St John, where more ofthe distinguished commanders and officers ofthe army ofthe Cross repose than in any other spot in the world. The crusader felt, that if he could return from the holy wars, and lay his bones in this sacred tem ple, his last and raost devout wish would be gratified. This church is of great architectural beauty, and its spa cious interior is almost an entire sepulchre ; the walls and the floors being everywhere studded and crowded with tablets, busts, banners, hatchments, effigies, and in scriptions, dedicated to the honoured heroes who per ished battling in Palestine in the cause of their Master. The admirers of those chivalrous times might linger for days within this holy edifice, in examining these memo rials of the Knights of St John and their companions. They awaken in the mind the most stirring and rap turous feelings, and bring back reminiscences of those thrilling events, that roused into active and daring en ergy higher moral impulses, and raore ardent and impas sioned rehgious devotion, than have ever agitated the world before or since. Whatever ulterior designs may be thought to have influenced some of their leaders, the history of the crusaders presents no feature, in our opin ion, to impugn the raotives, or to question the enthusi- asra of that holy zeal, which spread with electric fire through every rank and condition of Christendom, from the undaunted Coeur de Lion down to the most humble subaltern. The unspeakable sufferings they endured, to recover the tomb of Christ from the possession of the Saracen, and the readiness and willingness with which. MALTA. 161 in order to effect this haUowed object, even the wealth iest and most noble abandoned the luxuries of home and all the endearments of wife, children, and kindred, to shed their blood on Syria's sands, in the holy service of the Lord, are incontestable proofs of the sincerity and purity of their intentions. What soul-absorbing devo tion breathes in every line of their prayers and vows! Thus said the crusader, when, parting with everything he possessed on earth, castle, lands, wife, and children, he set out upon his journey for Palestine : " My body to its Lord's relief Must go, but thou retain'st my heart ; To Syria now I wend my way. Where Paynim swords no terror move." Again : And thus : ' Lord, I surrender all to thee. No goods have I, nor castles fair." " My heart to her I hold so dear. My soul to God in Paradise." Maka, as a residence for the pulmonary invaUd, has, from its insular position and remoteness from mountain elevations, superior advantages over any part of the Mediterranean coast which we visited. The mild and equable temperature and delicious softness of the ch mate the whole year round, with the exceUent accom modations, delightful society, and facUities for exercise m the open air, ought to make it a place of desirable resort for the class of patients whom we have designa ted. The range of the thermometer is seldom over 80° of Fahrenheit, or below 60o. Among the delightful rides on this island, that from Valetta to the celebrated bay where the great apostle Paul is stated to have been shipwrecked, while on one of his sacred journeys to spread the Gospel light and the glad tidings of salvation, must be particularly cheering and refreshing to the Christian invalid. 162 GREECE. GREECE. From Malta I took shipping, in the French steam ship of war Leonidas, for the Archipelago. From dis tress of weather we were obliged to put into the Island of Milo. From thence we passed on to Syra. Syra is, like scores of the other islands in the Archi pelago, a barren and forbidding rock, almost destitute of the least cultivation, having on the harbour side two smaU, curious Greek towns, the old and the new ; the former on the shore, the latter on the side of the mount ain, and reaching near to the top.' The houses are small, white stone edifices, built without order or regu larity, or any reference to streets for carriages, most of them being only intended for the passing of mules and human pedestrians. Those islands which are inhabited, and have clusters of houses, are cheering as you ap proach them from the dreary monotony of the watery waste. Syra is now made of some importance by the French and Austrian steamers, which meet here from various points of the Mediterranean and the Adriatic. On our arrival at Syra, we found there would not be any conveyance to Athens for seven days, as the regular boat had left the evening before. Our voyage from Mal ta was retarded by most tempestuous weather, and we had been compelled to put into the Island of Milo for shelter from the storm. A Greek prince who came on with us from Malta being as anxious as ourselves to get on to Athens, undertook to procure for that purpose a suitable conveyance for us aU. He accordingly went on shore at Syra vvith that intent, and what did he get ? GREECE. 163 An open boat, which, however, he assured me was per fectly safe, and a usual conveyance. When I arrived by the side of her from our steamer, I positively refused to go ; but his confidence and the wiUingness of my companions made me yield, though contrary to my better judgment The wind, however, being fair, all seemed to hope for a speedy trip. In we all got with our baggage, and in a few moments were under fuU sail out of the harbour of Syra. The boat was literally crammed, what with my companions and my servant Henry, the prince and his servant, three young Itahans with their two servants, also on their way to visit Greece. Together with those we have enumera ted, there were also thirteen Greek passengers, including four women. Such confusion, such utter want of com fort, I never saw or experienced, and did not expect to find at my time of hfe. Boxes, trunks, portmanteaus, and the entire effects of one or two whole Greek fami lies on board, were rolling and tumbling about in every direction, so that there was no room to sit down, and scarcely any to stand. In this condition we started at two P.M., and in this landed at the Piraeus, the port of Athens, the next after noon about five, having passed the night in the most uncomfortable manner, without anything to sleep upon but the heaps of luggage, and with the starry canopy for our roof; the weather fortunately proving favourable untU half an hour before we landed, when it commenced pouring in torrents. The boat proved to be a good sailer and safe. But the filthy and wretched condition of the Greeks on board, and our close proximity to them, created an atmosphere that not even the fragrant gales of "Araby the blest" would have rendered en durable. 1*64 GREECE. In passing from the iEgean Sea to the narrow strait that leads to the capacious harbour of the Piraeus, we have the memorable battle scene near Salamis on the left, and the tomb of Themistocles on the right After encountering for some time in our open caique a heavy rain, which drenched ourselves and baggage, we stepped ashore at the quay of the ancient Piraeus, once itself a great city and the principal seaport of Athens, and abounding in temples, porticoes, arsenals, &c., now a small village, showing only some slight evidences of a revival of trade, which consists principally of fruit, wine, and olives from the islands of the Levant. At the Piraeus we succeeded in getting a crazy old English vehicle of the omnibus species, into which we stowed baggage and all, including, besides myself, three others of my own countrymen and my faithful German servant Henry ; which latter was such a perfect polyglot, speaking eight or nine languages, that he never was fairly brought up, as the saUors say, with a round turn, till he landed in the country of Epaminondas and De mosthenes. Here he encountered the modern Greek, which he pronounced the most ferocious language he had ever heard, and infinitely more formidable and jaw- breaking than his own Teutonic tongue, or even the Russian, with which he was perfectly famiUar. I was very much amused afterward, from time to time, in the interior of Greece, with his altercations with the agoates, or men who conduct the baggage-horses. Understand ing only now and then a straggling woi-d which they had caught of Italian, he was . in a state of great vexa tion and apprehension for his life, as he well might be from their savage and vindictive features. Repeatedly in ol\r journeyings about he would ride up to me in great agitation, and declare that they were going to as- GREECE. 165 sassinate him. I confess that I myself often felt uneasy, but less fr*m them than from the parties whom we met in the lonely mountain passes, and who appeared to be straggling and loitering about for no other purpose than depredation. Premising this episodial tribute to our worthy equery, we proceed in our narrative. We started in our omni bus, which, by-the-by, was not dissimUar to a Long Isl and stage of the olden time, and passing over a beauti ful macadamized road, constructed by the Bavarian sol diers on the former ancient via which led from the Piraeus, we arrived, after a distance of about three miles, to the city of Athens, and were conducted to the. Hotel de France. This is a hotel, indeed, but only an apology for one, the accommodations being wretched. As we were now fairly within the domain of the most consecrated classic land, in every sense, that ever exist ed, and as we were favoured with the opportunity to make a more particular examination of its celebrated monuments than those of any other we visited, we shall be excused for dweUing upon them in some detail. Not deeming that a theme so delightful can ever tire, how ever often revived, and not doubting that my own countrymen wiU perhaps be the more gratified with the cursory remarks and reflections I may have to make upon what fell under my own eye, since very few, if any Americans, perhaps, have ever travelled as extensively in Greece as myself, and none certainly under more favourable auspices to see and learn aU that there is to be known. Though not pretending to any very nice or exact an tiquarian knowledge, I can scarcely in justice travel through such a country without discoursing of that hal lowed Greece, where every foot of ground almost, and 166 GREECE. every pointed crag, deep ravine, dell, grotto, grove, and gushing brook, it may be said, has been enfbalmed in fable or heroic verse, and uttered by every tongue and engraved on every raemory for the last 2000 years. First, then, of that ancient port of Piraeus, and after ward of the walls which connect the port with Athens. Athens had three harbours closely adjoining each other: the principal or Pirceus; the next to the east, caUed Munychia ; and, lastly, and the smallest and the farthest east, the Phalerus. The Piraeus was, in fact, a great city, with its superb marble basins, piers, and quays, one of which the gallant naval captain and general, Themistocles, the conqueror of the Persian fleet at Salamis, appropriately selected for an excavation for his tomb. Around the circuit of the harbour were magnificent armories and arsenals, which, with the walls to Athens, were aU destroyed by Lysander, on the reduction of Attica, at the termination ofthe Pelo- ponnesian war. Within the harbour could be moored 300 triremes, and the city boasted of its gorgeous temples, por ticoes, theatres, statues, &c. The two walls to Athens were each about 40 stadia long and 40 cubits high, built externally with immense blocks of stone without cement, but the unhewn stqnes of the interior clamped with lead and iron, and wide enough on the top to afford a double carriage track. They were flanked by square or semi circular towers for defence. When Athens became overpopulated these towers were inhabited. One of the walls was erected by Pericles, the other by Themistocles. To the recently-pubhshed and learned work on an cient Athens, by my exceUent friend Mr. Pittakys, a Greek savant and native of that city, of whom I shall speak more particularly hereafter, we are indebted for a vast amount of new, and curious, and most valuable in- GREECE. 167 formation, which has been brought to Ught by the ex cavations and examinations which he has caused to be made, as conservator of the museum of the king. The narrow entrance of the Piraeus, according to the researches of this able writer, stiU exhibits the pUasters to which was attached the chain by which the port was shut. There also stood the colossal marble hon, stolen in 1687 by the Venetians, and carried, to their city. Hence the present name of this port, viz.. Port Draco, or the Port of the Lion. Mr. P. has found also the pedestal with its inscription, denoting that upon this stood the statue oi Heros-Centhaurus, the Centaur, which gave the name of Centhaurus to one ofthe three basins or indentations of the harbour of the Piraeus. He has also at another basin of the Piraeus, called Aphrodisium, identified, by means of the diggings that have been made, fragments of huge columns, which induce him to believe that they belonged to the immense temple erected there by Themistocles to Venus Aperche, so caUed in honour of the pigeon that lighted on the rigging of his ship during the battle of Salamis. A multitude of inscriptions on blocks of marble have also been found there, indicating the site of the great ancient arsenal, and enumerating the rudders, and other rigging and armament taken out in different expeditions. On the promontory of the pen insula of the Piraeus facing the sea, he has found the remains of the altar that formed part of the tomb of Themistocles, and beneath it two excavations in the rock, on a level with the sea, in one of which was dis covered a sarcophagus, supposed to have contained the bones of that great general. There was also a spacious market at the Piraeus, and a theatre whose diameter was 260 feet At the Piraeus stood also famous bronze statues to Jupiter and Minerva, to the former of whom^ 168 GREECE. as the protector of strangers, these latter on landing made votive offerings of garlands and small statues, re- caUing in those traits of the Athenians, analogies, as has been frequently observed, between this people and the present 'Parisians. Near the Centaur basin are found remains of the ancient cemetery. The Piraeus furnish ed the Piraene marble of which all the foundations of the public buildings in Athens were built The next great port east of and adjoining the Piraeus was Muny chia (in Greek Mounuchia), presenting in its name a singular analogy, if not identity, to the capital of Bava ria (Munich), the son of whose king possesses now the throne of Athens. Here are found the remains of a temple to Diana, and the tomb of Thrasson. The next and last great port east was Phalerus. Here was a cele brated temple to Ceres, to which the young girls, at the feasts in her honour, repaired with branches of ripe grapes in their hands. Some inscriptions that Mr. Pittakys has found there, also indicate that little dolphins were sac rificed to this goddess. The Phalerus was nearest to Athens, being but twenty stadia, i. e., two and a half miles. Here were statues to " unknown gods'' alluded to in the Acts of the Apostles. The great number of niches in the rocks for statues, indicate, according to Mr. P., a numerous population at this seaport The ancient fortress here is in excellent preservation. Phalerus gave birth to Aristides and Demetrius, and is stUl celebrated for its marsh, its cabbages, and its fish caUed Aphuai. The ancient walls that connected Athens with the Pi raeus are still in part existing. As they were construct ed with haste, much of the fiUing in was supphed by fragments of the tombs and teraples destroyed by the Persians. The distance between the walls varied from 560 to 700 feet There were two great roads between them.' GREECE. 169 After reposing for the night at our hotel at Athens, we sallied forth in the morning, and enjoyed the fine view of the far-famed Acropohs, and that almost per fect relic the temple of Theseus, which stands in the space between the two great walls. We first paid our respects to Mr. Perdicaris, the American consul, a most exceUent and hospitable man, whose philanthropic labours in behalf of his country men, and eloquent and learned lectures on the subject of Greece during a residence of some years in the Uni ted States, while they everywhere procured for him at tached and admiring friends, served to endear him to our institutions, and to make him a thorough American in his principles and feelings. So much so, in fact, that he became half identified almost in blood with us by the choice which he made, previous to accepting his appoint ment of consul, of one of our most interesting Amer ican ladies as his partner for life. A charming and highly-intellectual woman she is, and worthy to reside with her gifted husband on this classic ground, under the shade of the matchless Parthenon. Yet stUl, though dwelling in a spot so hallowed, I could see that her mind and her affections oft reverted back to that young land that was the home of her infancy and her fathers. StiU her heart clung to, and still her thoughts dreamed of, the green hiUs and pleasant vaUeys of her childhood. I now ferreted out — for literally it is ferreting out, or threading through a perplexed labyrinth, in the shock ingly narrow, encumbered, and lampless streets of mod ern Athens — my old and esteemed friend, the Rev. John H. Hill, formerly of our city, and now for some years principal Episcopal missionary at this place. He whom I had formerly weU known, and with whom I had been eaily and intimately associated in the Young Men's As- Y 170 GREECE. sistant Bible Society of New- York, was not, I think, less dehghted to see me than I was to see him. Before my interview with him, I found that he had heard of my arrival, and had been at the hotel in search of me. I immediately ascertained, as I had anticipated, that my valued friend, with his amiable and universally beloved wife, knew everybody, and that everybody knew and respected them. It was easy to understand this, for, strange as it may seem, these two countrymen of ours are the two oldest, and the primitive residents, or first settlers of any note whatever, in the modern city which has risen within a few years upon the site of ancient and renowned Athens. The history of our own coun trymen has, indeed, ever been the history of an enter prising and daring race of adventurous men, constantly occupied in colonization. Well grounded in the ele mentary principles of education, and deeply imbued with an absorbing attachment to civU and religious lib erty, they forsook the father-land of England to plant the standard of human rights on the bleak shores of the American Continent And the same glorious spirit which actuated their forefathers stiU seems uppermost in their thoughts. Not only are they zealously engaged in spreading the light of the Gospel and of civil freedom in the remotest seas, and among the savage tribes of the Far West, and ofthe distant islands in the Pacific Ocean, and accomplishing the still more difficult task of enlight ening the minds of the Africans by estabhshing colonies, and scattering the seeds of civihzation'upon their coast, but, as it would seem, aim at the yet sublimer triumph of regenerating ancient Greece, and the noblest people that have adorned the annals of Europe. When this resolute couple from New-England ground, first began at Athens some fifteen years since, they lived GREECE. 171 in the only old habitable ruin in the place, and not an- oth'er house was there ; the miserable and impoverished Greeks occupying wretched sheds amid the masses and fragments of ancient buildings which had accumulated during successive bombardments by the Turks. From my own observation, not only in Athens, but in extensive journeys in the interior, I am convinced that Mr. and Mrs. Hill are the greatest benefactors hving to modern Greece. They are doing more for the revival of this ancient people, than all that King Otho himself and his whole court, sustained by foreign diplomacy, have done or ever wiU do. They have begun at the beginning. They have laid the axe at the root, and they have commenced their great and good work, first by teaching the Greek children ; and, if knowledge is power, this people surely wUl gain strength, and the country wiU improve in proportion. Besides teaching the Greek children the rudiments of education, they are permitted to inculcate religious principles, which they do with unremitting zeal. They also have in their house a number of highly-interesting girls and young women, who are made companions in their family, and brought up with that kindness yet sys tematic order which is really beautiful to behold, and deserving of imitation everywhere. In the evening they assemble together in a family circle, and while one reads over portions of the Testament in Greek, the rest are occupied with their needlework, and in the daytime as sist in the schools established by Mr. and Mrs. Hill. We cannot say much for the personal beauty of these young daughters of Greece. In truth, were it not for the exceedingly picturesque and classical costume of both sexes, their large dark eyes, and long braided hair of black, and, above all, their winning and courteous 172 GREECE. manner, fiiU of graceful gestures and expressions of warm-heartedness, to us in a strange land most gratify ing, though to a dispassionate eye it might seem theat rical, we should call the Greek women generally a homely race. But there was one exception among these interesting scholars, a lovely Hydriote girl of about fifteen, whom we took a great fancy to, as she also, as it seemed, did to us. In one of our visits she presented to one of our party some pretty beadwork ; and the manner in which she ran across the room to deliver her cadeau, with her hand on her heart and her voice trembhng and diffident, while the long gold tassel hung down tastily from her red cap, and her rich, full Alba nian costume shone more charming than ever, has left an impression upon our memory that never wiU be ef faced. This recaUs a delightful ride we took one beautiful afternoon to Plato's Grove and around Mars Hill, with Mrs. and Mr. Perdicaris, Mr. Hill, and a sister of Mrs. Hill, and two of the scholars of Mr. Hill, one of which latter was the little favourite Hydriote. We were all mounted on horseback. Mrs. Perdicaris, our lovely countrywom an, was most beautifully attired in Greek costume, and was taken for the queen, and we of the royal party who were escorting her. Under this delusion, which we did not dispel, we were received everywhere with the great est distinction as our horses paced along amid the an cient ruins. Every one stopped and uncovered as we passed, and even the old archbishop raised his cap, which he does to no one but the king and queen. The httle girls, too, on the roadside, presented us with numberless rich bouquets of roses, pinks, and magnolias, tUl we were nearly confused with their courtesies. The Greek dress of the ladies of our party never looked to more advan- G R E E C E. 173 tage than it did a cheval, and I must make an attempt to describe it A red cloth cap, embroidered in gold, with a long tassel ; a light Turkish veU, not tied, but thrown over the head; large, loose pantaloons, partly covered by a very short, embroidered petticoat; a jacket fitting closely to the bust, with open sleeves, showing lacework beneath, over which was a sort of coat with out sleeves, fitting prettily to the shoulders. To these add the red sash, the Turkish slipper, and the long braided hair, and the tout ensemble completed one of the prettiest figures I ever saw. Such was our Hydri ote girl, to whom might be transferred all the panegyric stanzas of Lord Byron's charming verses to the Maid of Athens. In this deUghtful ride, we felt almost as though we were inspired under the crowd of glorious recollections, that pressed upon the memory, as we gazed around us, upon every haUowed temple, column, rock, and mount ain, that spoke to us in mute and sublirae eloquence of the past And we could not help repeating, as we rode along, those raagnificent lines of the noble poet, which vividly imbodied our excited feelings. If Lord Byron had hved for Greece alone, the world would owe him an everlasting debt of gratitude, for re-embalming the fame of this heaven-born land, and that of aU her illus trious men, in his undying poetry. " Slow sinks, more lovely ere his race be run. Along Korea's hillj the setting sun ; Not, as in northern chmes, obscurely bright. But one unclouded blaze of living light ! O'er the hush'd deep the yellow beam he throws. Gilds the green wave, that trembles as it glows. On old jEgina's rock and Idra's isle The god of gladness sheds his parting smile ; O'er his own regions lingering, loves to shine, Though there his altars are no more divine ; 174 GREECE. Descending fast, the mountain shadows kiss Thy glorious gulf, unconquer'd Salamis ! Their azure arches, through the long expanse More deeply purpled, meet his mellowing glance, And tenderest tints, along their summits driven, Mark his gay course, and own the hues of heaven ; Till, darkly shaded from the land and deep, Behind his Delphian cliff he sinks to sleep." Corsair. To return to the school of young ladies in Mr. Hill's family. These young women are destined to become principals of schools in various parts of Greece, from the islands to the Continent, from Crete to Missilonghi, and from Negropont to Thermopylae. Already sorae of them have made their debut with great success in the interior towns of this forlorn and benighted country. For vivid and captivating as are our ideas of Greece, and the mastery which it once exercised over the world in arms, in literature, and the fine arts, and in perfect keep ing with those associations as are the treasures of learn ing and of taste they have left, and many of the pre cious ruins that still exist ; yet, melancholy to relate, no land, perhaps, is covered with deeper clouds of moral and intellectual darkness, than this once classic and al most deified country. And we could not, in viewing the efforts made to re deem unhappy Greece by our esteemed friend, feel other than an inward pride that our own infant Republic was fulfilling the high destiny of returning back a part of that hght which she herself, in common with all other portions of the earth, had received from this alma mater of science and literature, and, in truth, of all the bless ings of European civilization. When I visited the schools of ray excellent friends, I felt a dehght which language can but poorly express. In viewing some hundreds of the poor Greek children, GREECE. 175 and even adults, neatly clad in Greek and other dresses, and under the raost perfect discipline, receiving their education upon the Lancasterian and most modern and approved methods of instruction ; and imbibing, at the same time, at the kind hands of their instructors, the mild precepts of the Gospel, and the purest axioms of nioral truth ; this benign picture presented itself to my mind as the perfume and beauty of the wUd flower, transplanted from our own American forests, to impart its sweetness and freshness to the sunburnt clime of this oppressed land, and still to shield and uphold, with its green and clasping tendrils, the snow-white and tottering column, and the jutting frieze and cornice of her time- honoured temples. After the proper courtesies to our worthy countryman, Mr. HiU, and his amiable and truly valuable helpmate, and also after paying our respects to our diplomatic rep resentative, Mr. Perdicaris, and his lady, we proceeded to examine in detail the remarkable monuments in and about the neighbourhood, which for 2000 years have been the wonder of admiring generations. • It is not our intention to dilate with learned minute ness on all these architectural and sculptural relics, which have exhausted the ingenuity, the erudition, and the descriptive powers of so many profound and ripe scholars and historians for ages past Nevertheless, it might seem affectation if we did not relate, at least, the general impressions which some of the more remarkable of these surprising works of art produced on our mind, though they might not have awakened in us that poetic fire and patriotic enthusiasm, those thrilling thoughts and associations, with which they would naturally be come invested in the eye of a skilful and accomplished antiquarian intimately conversant with ancient Greek lore. 176 GREECE. The first object we visited was the temple of The seus, which is situated on the declivity of a rocky hiU just before entering the city. It is in greater preserva tion than any other ruin to be met with in Greece. From its being composed of the same soft, perishable, and pure white marble as most of the raonuments at Athens, we are induced to attribute its remarkable pres ervation and present unmutUated condition to the sacred veneration in which it has ever been held. The form is the same as that of the Parthenon. The piUars are massive, but not lofty ; audi was dis appointed to find that the diraensions of the whole edi fice were diminutive in comparison with the expanded conceptions which I, like others, had formed of it in my imagination. So, in fact, it is with aU those sanguine anticipations which we picture to ourselves of the re markable objects that we shall see abroad. We foUow them up from place to place, like the bewildering ignis fatuus, which as constantly eludes our grasp, and leaves us to be disappointed with the flat reality, which generally faUs far short ofthe exaggerated measure of our expect ations. I can safely say this of every grand structure I saw abroad, with one solitary exception, which were the Pyramids of Egypt The temple of Theseus was erected by Cimon, the son of Mikiades, in honour of Theseus. The beautiful story of Theseus, son of ^Egeus, king of Athens, and how he effected the destruction of the Minotaur in Crete, to whose cave he was conducted by means of the mysterious thread that the enamoured Ariadne, daugh ter of Minos, king of Crete, provided hira with, is fa miliar to raost readers. The sails of his fleet, on leav ing Athens, were black ; but, forgetting to make the pre concerted signal of hoisting white ones should he prove GREECE. 177 victorious over the Minotaur, his father, in despair, leap ed from the rock where he was upon the lookout, and the sea whose green waters bathe the shores of Attica was ever after caUed, after this tragic incident, the Mge- anSea. The Minotaur was the monster, half buU, half man, who fed on the youths and maidens brought from Athens as the pledge of their servitude to Crete. JEge- us is supposed by some to have been another name for Neptune. The following beautiful and touching lines on this theme, and which have never before appered in print, are from the pen of a young American girl of this state,* aged 16, and evince a sweetness and pa thos that show with what genuine and deep inspira tion aU that relates to enchanting Greece, is drunk in and pondered upon even by the youthful minds of our country, who *re so far remote from her, and know her story only through the pages of her poets and historians : " Night gather'd o'er the land and sea. The pale moon rose on high. And twinkling stars kept silently Their vigils in the sky. Sweetly amid her waters blue The shores of fair Greece slept. While on the evening breezes blew The wail of one that wept. He lingers yet far, far from me. The mourner wildly said ; Tell me, ye waves, as on ye flee. If he indeed is dead. • ¦ • • Ye heavenly orbs, ye smile as sweet As when he gazed on you ; Oh ! do you still that cold form greet. That I no more may view. Ye perfumed gales from Araby, Say, where is his lone grave 1 Is it beneath the dark blue sea — Beneath some Peri's cave 1 * MissM. T., of Albany. z 178 GREECE. , I'd longer toil on time's dark way. But, sounding o'er the sea, Me^inks I hear a sweet voice sayj Naught here can comfort thee. He ended ; bidding earth farewell. He plunged beneath the wave, The sparkling waters lightly fell Upon his father's grave. They cannot raise the marble stone. To tell where now he sleeps ; For there the mermaid roams alone — Alone she o'er him weeps. Nor can they plant o'er him the yew. Nor early flowers bring Upon his coral grave to strew. In honour of their king. But give the silvery waves that flow O'er his watery bed. To prove their deep and lasting wo. The name of him that's dead." The tradition is, that the shade of Theseus, 800 years after his death, appeared at the battle of Marathon. Cimon, who was son of Miltiades, the hero who won that battle, searched for his bones, and found them at Sciros, together with his helmet and sword, and had them transported in great pomp to Athens, and buried them where the temple is. From their reverence for him, this temple became an' asylum, and hence also, perhaps, its preservation. It was built 436 B.C., by the famous architect Micon, and 30 years before the Parthe non. AU the columns incline a little towards the tem ple, to give it greater solidity in the event of earthqualies. In 1769 a Turk tore up the pavement, which was of Pentehcan marble, to make hme of it ! Of all that there is left of the ancient glories of Athens, the temple of Theseus is the most perfect. This, how ever, and the Parthenon and Erectheum, and all else that remains of the exquisite taste of the Greeks, can- GREECE. 179 not, in the nature of things, endure for raany centuries raore. We have lived to see partially consummated in dur times the most momentous event that has occurred in this classic land for near 2000 years. It is the par tial regeneration and commencing civilization of this oppressed and unfortunate people, who, during that long epoch, with the proudest monuments of human genius constantly before their eyes, to remind them of their degradation, have, from the inscrutable designs of Prov idence, been visited, as it were, with a moral and polit ical death, and left to wander through a long and gloomy night of deplorable barbarism. Since the day th.at St. Paul preached on the Areopagus at Athens, it has been for that people one continued and unbroken endurance of the tyrant's despotic chains, until the hght of Chris tianity again burst over the pagan temples in Greece, and now gives promise that she shall be redeemed, and disenthralled, and restored to her pristine rank. We have a sacred guarantee in the extension of the bles sings of the press, and of useful sciences, and the practical knowledge of human rights, that Greece in future time can never again retrograde. The corrup tions of Christianity that grew up with its introduction into Rome, led to its union with the military power qf that empire, and caused, under a false zeal, more devas tation of the magnificent architectural monuments, both of Egypt and of Greece, and all other countries subject to the sway of the imperial eagles, than was ever caused by the Persians before, or by the barbarian Saracens and Goths afterward. But we have the assurance in the march of intellectual power which characterizes our age, that Christianity will now be the preserver rather than the destroyer of those monuments, that so beautifully il lustrate the early and high inteUectual culture ofthe most 180 GREECE. refined arts of civilization, though they record, at the same time, the moral debasement of the heart in idola trous superstition. Nevertheless, time itself, unaided by the ravages of human hands, raust sooner or later level with the dust, all that stUl exists of the precious memorials that Greece has left in architectural or sculptural magnificence. It is gratifying to know that, among the auspicious results of the regeneration of Greece, her own sons, feeling happy and secure under a mild and enhghtened government, which protects and diffuse? the blessings of education and liberty, now begin to turn their atten tion to the history of their own country, and to the illus tration of her remains. Araong these we may enumer ate with particular pride Mr. Pittakys, already alluded to, and our consul Mr. Perdicaris, both native Greeks. The work of Mr. Pittakys is so rauch the more val uable as it is written by one who has studied the raon uments of Greece with Greek eyes and Greek feelings, and may therefore be deemed the most authentic and valuable that has ever been published on that subject. We have therefore thought it not irrelevant, as this work has not, to our knowledge, been yet translated, as we trust it soon wiU be, to avaU ourselves freely of its pages, that we raay spread before the world as rauch of its valuable matter as our limits will permit We trust the estimable and erudite author will have it in his power to give to the public, as he has announced, a full and complete account of all the ruins of Greece, as weU as those of Athens. We here abridge from his pages his account of the temple of Theseus, as one of the most valuable morceaus that can be furnished, to afford an exact conception of Grecian art and Grecian history in ancient times. GREECE. 181 In the Ceramique interior, as Mr. P. calls that part ot Athens named after the hero Ceramus, son of Bacchus, the temple of Theseus, says this writer, exists, and, per haps, will exist eternally. When Theseus lived, the Athenians consecrated many monuments to him ; but after his death, with the exception of four, they appro priated them to the worship of Hercules. The present temple is 73 feet 11 inches in length, and 26 in breadth. It is surrounded with a peristyle composed of six col umns on the facades, and 13 on the sides. It is divided into pronaos, naos, and opisthodome. The pronaos and the naos occupy the whole length of the temple. The opisthodome is formed by a smaU prolongation of the wall of the naos as far as the antes. On the same hne were two columns, between which anciently there was a railing of bronze. The width of the lateral peristyle is six feet ; the distance from one column to the other five feet f ur inches and a half, except the columns of the angles, which are not removed from one another but four feet nine inches and a half, a condition observed in the Doric order, to make the triglyphs coincide with the angles, and to render aU the metopes equal. Inte riorly the length of the naos is 40 feet two inches, and its breadth 20 feet seven inches and a half. The thick ness of tbe waU is two feet and a half; the diameter of the columns of the peristyle three feet four inches ; their height 19 feet The height of the temple, to count from the stylobates, is 33 feet and a half. The stones which support the columns have two inches in thickness and four feet and a half of length. The foundations of the temple in some places have three ranges of piers, and towards the northwest angle we count even five and six. These foundations are all entire of Piraeic stones. 182 GREECE. In spite of the changes of season and the barbarity of past ages, this temple has been preserved entire, the roof only being modern. The Christians, in 667, in order to make an altar, destroyed the two colum'ns which conducted to the pronaos. They replaced thera by a wall of stone and a tarabour of raasonry, which are now being removed. They made the entrance of the temple to the west by enlarging the sraall door which separates the naos from the opisthodome. In the temple is found a circular block of marble. Its four parallel inscriptions seem to indicate that it served as a pedestal to some statue. They (the Chris tians) hollowed it out, and made of it a vessel for the baptismal font. Traces of the division of the temple into two parts, the naos and pronaos, are stiU to be seen ; also the holes in the eastern part where were four statues. Under neath are ten metopes, ornamented with bas-reliefs rep resenting the ten labours of Hercules. Commencing by the south, we have, 1. The Lion of Nemea ; 2. The suc cour of lolaus with the hydra of Lerna; 3. Theslaughter of the bitch of Cerynia ; 4. The struggle with the buU of Crete ; 5. The subjugation of one of the horses of Dio mede, king of Thrace; 6. The killing of Cerberus. The 7th is nearly effaced, and perhaps represented Hercules with Cycnus. The Sth is probably Hercules with Hip- polyte. In the 9th Hercules is struggling with Anteus, to whom Ceres, his mother, gives new strength. The 10th discovers him gathering the apples of Hesperides. It is probable that the two other labours were added by the Greeks, after the epoch when the temple was built The four metopes on the south side represent, 1. The seus struggling with the Minotaur ; 2. Bearing off the GREECE. 183 bull from Marathon to Athens; 3. Struggling with Pityo- camptes; 4. Precipitating Procrustes. On the north side we have, in the same order, 1. Theseus with Co- rynete ; 2. Cercyon ; 3. Cyron ; 4. The boar of Mara thon. All the other metopes were simple, and orna mented with paintings. In entering into the peristyle, we see on the frieze of the pronaos a range of thirty figures in bas-relief. Three divinities are discovered on each side, seated on the rock of Mount Olympus. They separate the other figures into three groups. These last are in the atti tude of combat They have only a buckler (or shield) and stones for arms. The attack comes from the south, where victory seems to incline. On this side are found the statue of Jupiter, seated, and those of Juno and Minerva. 1. The first figure is a combatant armed with a shield. 2. The second another (perhaps Mars), who bears a casque and destroys his enemy. 3. A giant advancing towards Mars. 4. A combatant armed with a shield. 5, 6, 7. The three divinities of whom mention has just been made. 8. A combatant armed with a shield. 9. A combatant mounting a rock. 10, 11. A combatant kiUing his enemy. 12. A giant naked. 13. A combatant armed with a shield. 14. A combatant who bears the chlamyde or cloak, and in front of him a large rock. 15. A combatant who bears on his shoulders a large rock, in the act of throwing it against his enemy. 16, 17. A combatant who kUls his enemy. 18. A giant surrounded with serpents; perhaps Ty- phon. 184 GREECE. 19. A combatant armed with a shield. 20. A combatant with the chlamyde. ; 21, 22, 23. The three other divinities seated on a rock ; perhaps Neptune, Vulcan, and Venus. 24. A combatant armed with a shield. 25, 26. A combatant who pushes his enemy. 27. A corabatant with the chlarayde. 28. A combatant who endeavours to lift a rock. 29. A giant coming to battle. 30. Another giant coming to battle. On the frieze of the opisthodome are twenty figures, representing the combat of the Centaurs with the Lap- ithae. In three places we see Theseus victorious, while fortune is indecisive between the others. The eighth figure represents Caeneus between two Centaurs, who seek to crush him with a large stone because they have learned that he is impenetrable to their darts. Caeneus appears as if driven into the earth under the weight of the rock and of that of the two Centaurs. The bas-reliefs which exist still are almost all without heads. They announce, in spite of the change which time and image-breakers have made, the hand of a skiU ful master, and are an incontestable proof that this edi fice is truly the temple of Theseus. They are propor tionably larger than those of the Parthenon, which, however, are more beautiful and more picturesque. AU the sculptures of this temple have preserved some vestiges of the colour with which they were painted. The dominant colours were gilded bronze united to blue, and, in the drapery, red and green. We see, also, on the architrave of the peristyle, and on the interior cornice, raeanders in painting. They are especially very visible on the interior cornice of the architrave to the southwest of the opisthodome. GREECE. 185 The custom of painting the plafonds of temples was derived from Egypt On the south of the temple two of the columns have been broken to their base, as well as the wall of the naos. In fact, in 1660 the Turks commenced to de stroy this temple, in order to make a mosque of it. The Greeks procured from Constantinople an order inter dicting thera. Two colurans near the last were shat tered by the earthquake at Athens in 1807. In 1821, the lightning split frora above to below the coluran of the northwest angle. The traditions relative to the temple of Theseus are not entirely effaced among the people. They come stiU on the third day of Easter to dance in the temple the dance anciently called Labyrinth, which the young Athenians performed the eighth day of the month of Pyanepsion, and in which Theseus himself had partici pated on his#eturn from Crete. The Athenians ac corded to the temple of Theseus the virtue of curing diseases. To-day, as soon as a horse is sick, his master promenades him two or three times around the temple, and believes that he wUl thus gain strength. The cer emony of the dance, mentioned by Mr. Pittakys, I had the pleasure of witnessing while at Athens. We have been thus minute, and chosen this relic as the one which is most perfect in all its parts, and which wiU, therefore, answer as an excellent sample of the im mense labour and unwearied exercise of the imagina tion and taste, that the pohshed and intellectual Greeks bestowed on their public edifices. The accurate detail of Mr. Pittakys will also serve to show the dilapidation which time and the elements, and the sacrilegious touch of brute human hands, more exterminating than Jove's A A 186 GREECE. own thunderbolts, or the tremblings of the earth, are ma king on all these sacred ruins. A part only of the ancient roof of the temple re mains. They have, however, covered it over sufficient ly to protect the parts within. In order that the stucco might better adhere, the interior walls of this temple are not polished. Upon them Mr. Pittakys has discovered faint traces of the pencil of Micon, aU that remains of that famous artist This edifice is now used, by order of King Otho, for a museum of the antiquities dug up among the ruins ofthe Acropolis, and other public places in and about Athens. The coUection here deposited is already quite extensive and beautiful in its statuary, bas- reliefs, cameos, mosaics, and other interesting objects of antiquity, and is arranged with great classic taste by the learned Mr. Pittakys, as the conservator, who speaks both the English and French languages with great flu ency and accuracy. Among other responsible trusts committed to this accomplished native antiquarian, is that of removing aU the rubbish that encumbers the Acropolis, and restoring to the ancient temples those parts and proportions which were destroyed during the siege by the Venetians, or battered down in later years by the Turks. While engaged in this, he has found that he is opening a rich mine of buried treasures, which may prove as important in elucidating the ancient his tory of Greece, as Pompeii ha^s been in introducing us to an intimate acquaintance with the manners and cus toms of the ancient Romans. But for the mercantile cupidity of the boastful Vene tians, who professed so much refinement and taste, we should, probably, to this day have had preserved to us, in all its pristine beauty, the magnificent Parthenon, as constructed by that illustrious king, Pericles. A bomb GREECE. 187 frora their cannon, in the siege of 1656, feU into the propylaea, or portico, at the entrance of the Acropohs, where the Turks had placed a magazine of gunpowder, and did immense injury to both these superb edifices. The wars of the Persians in the remote ages before the time of Pericles, and their defeat by Themistocles, had razed to the ground nearly aU the then temples and buildings of the Acropolis, which were afterward recon structed anew by the munificent Pericles. But the apa thetic and indolent Turks, during their long possession of Greece for ages past, do not appear to have had any particular animosity to the monumental remains of this- country, and by their very indifference to thera were in some measure the raeans of their being as weU preserved as they have been. But for the ambitious Venetians, and latterly the murderous war carried on by the late Sultan against his rebellious Greek subjects, the world would not have had to deplore the present dilapidated condition of most of the Grecian monuments. Mr. Pittakys, with his accustomed courtesy to stran gers, had the kindness to accompany us to the hUls and rocks adjacent to the Acropolis, and pointed out to us numerous inscriptions upon the latter in old Greek char acters, corroborative, as he affirmed, of well-known events in the history of this wonderful people. The inteUectual Athenians, as their own Orpheus did, made their very rocks eloquent with the music of their glorious achievements. Literally, with Shakspeare, they saw " sermons in stones and books in running brooks," that he who runs might read, and have constantly be fore him the inspiring theme of national deeds. The Greeks wisely said that the sight of these inscriptions, as well as the multitudes of statues, temples, &c., fed the mind as food did the body. 188 GREECE. Mr. P. afterward took us up into the famed Acropolis, or the pinnacle-city, as the name imports, of ancient Athens, being on the summit of a sharp and abrupt cone of rock, the highest in that vicinity, and inaccessible from the perpendicularity of its precipices upon every side, excepting that which looks towards the hill called the Pnyx, upon which latter it was that the great De mosthenes in vain thundered forth his eloquence to arouse his then enervated and corrupt countrymen to resist the Macedonian tyrant Such is the interest King Otho takes in the ruins of the Acropolis, that it is closed to strangers without a special perrait, and is always guarded by a part of his troops. We ascended to it by a long flight of stone steps to a gate, which is guarded by a sentinel, on entering which we suddenly found ourselves at the Propylaea, the only entrance to the famed Acropolis, and which is itself a precious work of Grecian sculpture. It is composed of a vestibule of six superb and massive columns on the western facade, with a larger space between the two central columns to admit the saCred chariot. The pas sage is adorned with three Ionic columns on either side, and conducts to a wall pierced by five gates or porches, which lead to a vestibule corresponding to the exterior entrance. The last mentioned, or eastern vestibule, opens upon the plateau of the Acropohs. The Propy laea was built 437 B.C., by the architect Mnessicles, who employed one thousand workmen in its construction. It is .about 70 feet in length on its western facade, and about half tha't space in breadth. Mr. Pittakys is of opinion that the first outer layer of black Eleusinian marble of the wings of the western vestibule of the Pro pylaea, had inserted into it plates of brass, to give it the brilliancy of shining gold in the rays of the sun. GREECE. 189 Salient points are observable on the outside of the blocks of marble of which the Propylaea is buUt. Mr. Pittakys believes these were for machinery used in the construction, and that they prove that this edifice never was entirely finished. The Propylaea, says Mr. Pittakys, is of white marble, and the most perfect structure of the kind. Its con struction occupied five years. The cost was over 20,000 talents. It does not extend as far to the south as to the north, a space being left, probably for the temple of Victory (apteray The western fapade is 77 feet, and the centre ornamented with six columns 28 feet high, and each composed of eight blocks. The space between the two middle columns is 13 feet wide, to admit ofthe sacred voiture, while the space between the others is only half that width. Mr. Pittakys has found on the upper part of one of the broken columns of the Propylaea, which he caused to be disencumbered of the rubbish in which it was buried, marks of letters in red colour, which he supposes to have designated the names of the workmen, or, more probably, told the pieces, and the place they were to occupy, as is the practice to-day. The sUl of the five doorways, or passages through the longitudinal partition wall, and which doors conduct from the western to the eastern portico into the fortress, are paved with black Eleusinian marble, in order, Mr. P. thinks, that it raight seera less soiled by the crowds that passed through these openings. From a careful examination of various fragments, Mr. P. believes the cornice and other parts of the Propylaea to have been painted of a reddish ochre. On the trig lyphs is seen green and blue paint. After passing through the Propylaea a mournful scene of ruins presented itself, consisting of broken columns, 190 GREECE. shafts, capitals, cornices, arches, and every form and variety of fragments of ancient edifices, strewed in con fused heaps in every direction, covering an oval area on this summit of rock of about 952 feet by 427. On every side a part of the ancient waU remains, deplorably shat tered, however, like the pillars and other parts within, by the effects of the bombardraents already spoken of, the impressions ofthe cannon balls being everywhere visible. The profound antiquarian, Mr. Pittakys, who is our most authentic guide and interpreter, gives entire credit to the assertion of Plato, that the Acropolis was once continuous with the Pnyx and Areopagus, but sundered from them by an earthquake, of which traces are still visible. The wandering tribe of Pelasgi are supposed to have been the first who inhabited the Acropolis, and built a part of its walls. StiU earlier, in the remotest time, mythology consecrates this spot as that vyhere Neptune, with A stroke of his trident, made the water 4o'^tA forth from the rock, and where Minerva, second ing the benign intentions of the favourite god of the Athenians, caused the olive to grow. The height of the walls is about 60 feet The south wall was completed by Cimon, the son of Miltiades, and the north by Themistocles. Even before the time of the Persians and that -of Pericles, who restored and "beautified the summit with the Propylaea, Parthenon, &c., there existed in it a crowd of wondrous produc tions of Grecian skUl in architecture, among which was the famous temple of Minerva, which was burned at the Persian invasion. Coeval with the Parthenon, also ded icated to Minerva, were erected by Pericles and his suc cessors a crowd of magnificent works : temples adorn ed with statues and paintings, bas-reliefs, and emblazon ments, and armour of every description ; and here, also. G R E^ C E. 191 was deposited the greater part of the treasured gold of Athens, and all its precious utensils, gold and silver vases, &c., used in the ceremonies, feats, and triumphs. The monomania of the Athenians for statuary may be conceived when it is considered that to Demetrius of Phalerus alone, the last of their famous orators, and whom they first idolized, but afterward, with their char acteristic fickleness, condemned to death, they erected no less than 360 statues, all of which but one they de stroyed when he incurred their displeasure. While standing on the steps of the interior porchway of the Propylaea, we had on our right hand the remains of a small but most exquisitely-proportioned structure, called the temple of Victory Aptera (without wings), upon entering which we commanded an extensive view over the Pnyx HiU, and other eminences and monu ments below the Acropolis. Beyond these we saw the harbour of the Piraeus and the ^Egean Sea, and the famous island of iEgina. The temple of Victory was dedicated to the memory of ^Ege- us, and is pecuharly weU situated, by its being visible so far out at sea, for its supposed object, as it ?is believed to have been built also to commemorate the naval vic tories of the Greeks. It was on this spot where the anxious ^Egeus stood and watched with intense interest for the return of his son Theseus from his expedition to Crete to destroy the Minotaur. The statue of Victory in this temple was raade with out wings (aptera), because the news of the victory of Theseus did not precede his arrival, as had been pre concerted. This little temple was only 15 feet long by eight broad, and had four columns on the east, and four on the west, each 11 feet high. Besides the portions of the frieze now in the British Museum, and which 192 GREECE. are ornamented with small figures in bas-relief, other similar fragments of it have recently been discovered. They contain sculptured bas-reliefs of men in armour, in a bold style, and represent, according to Mr. Pittakys, the battle of Marathon and the reception of Theseus. The Propylaea not only admitted foot passengers, but, as is evident frora irregularities in the rock, horses and wheeled vehicles must have also passed under it After going through the Propylaea we came to an open space, in traversing which it was also manifest, from the roughnesses in the rock under our feet, that it had been purposely made so, to give a firmer foothold to the horses that entered here with the chariots during the Panathenea, and other processions and fetes that were held in this place. We arrived in a few minutes at the most elevated part of this rocky plateau, where, on the right, stands the immortal Parthenon; whUe on the left, and some what lower, is seen the lesser but not less exquisitely finished temple dedicated to Erectheus or Neptune. The Parthenon is built on the highest suramit of the rock, and on the very edge of the steep precipice which faces the city of Athens below. Although this superb but sim ple structure has been so often appealed to and copied as the beau ideal and most perfect model existing of archi tectural proportions, as thus to become almost a thread bare subject, still we cannot but add our humble testimo nial to the universal approbation that has been bestowed upon it It is noble and massive. The columns are six feet in diameter and 13 high, without the capitals, which are three feet thick. They are not monoliths, but compo sed each of twelve pieces, which are connected together by the interposition of a small block of hard wood, which sinks a few inches respectively into the centre of GREECE. 193 the area of each section of the column. These wooden blocks, thus shut out from the atmosphere, have been pre served in an astonishing manner, exhibiting no other change than that of being more dry and brittle than in the natural state, though they have been in that position over 2200 years. Mr. Pittakys, as a particular favour, pre sented me with a specimen of this wood, taken from one of the broken piUars of the Parthenon, informing me, at the same time, that it was highly valued, and that so little of it was found that it was with reluctance ,he could part with any of the few pieces in his possession. The blocks of stone of the walls are also ingeniously clamped together by iron and lead. We rambled about through aU parts of this wonderful edifice, and were surprised to find on one side of it, upon the most eleva ted part of the Acropolis, a smaU Turkish mosque, ap parently erected there by the late masters of Greece as a memento of Ottoman supreraacy. The Parthenon was so called from being dedicated to Minerva Parthenos (the virgin). It is built of the purest Pentelican marble. Ictinos was the architect ; Calhcrates and Carpion constructed the columns and waUs, and Phidias directed the sculptures. The beasts of burden employed in carrying up the materials were afterward deemed sacred, and fed on pastures out of the public treasure, and never more permitted to work. This temple is of the Doric order. To the architrave of the eastern facjade were sus pended the golden shields taken by the Greeks from the Medes at the battle of Marathon, which, with other pre cious objects, were piUaged by the tyrant Lacharis. In the construction of the walls of the cella, or body of the Parthenon, two long blocks of marble were placed on a broad one, and united together perpendicularly and hor- Bb 194 GREECE. izontally with iron and lead. To this ingenious ar- rangeraent for strength, Mr. Pittakys ascribes the extra ordinary preservation of this edifice. A table of marble, which had been placed by the Christians in the western door, contains inscriptions, which Mr. P. believes to be an enumeration of the cost ly treasures which were deposited in the opisthodome, or smaUer western division of the cella. Mr. P. remarks that the head of the figure of The seus repulsing a Centaur, seen on the twenty-sixth met ope of the south side, and as traced by Carry, bears a striking resemblance to a statue of Theseus recently found at Athens upon an aqueduct The metopes on the west fapade represent the battle of Marathon. The seventh, or centre one, is a group of warriors prostrate on the earth, with others on the top of them. Mr. P. thinks this group and its position was intended to reproduce that decisive moment in the battle when the slaughter of the enemy was greatest, and in the middle of the plain, where, in fact, is now seen the sepulchral tumulus of earth, in which the brave Greeks who heroically died on this spot were probably interred. The raagnificent statues, and the bas-reliefs of gods, kings, heroes, processions, and battles, which once adorned and covered the facades and sides of this wondrous work of art, are all mutilated or effaced, save those that were pUlaged by Lord Elgin and others, and that are now in the British and other museuras. Mr. Pittakys, in concurring with Lord Byron in the expres sion of unmingled disgust and execration at the robbery by Lord Elgin, hopes that renovated and independent Greece may now reclaim of the English the chef d'oeu- vres of her ancestors, and restore them to the temple where the immortal Phidias had placed them. GREECE. 195 The conduct of Lord Elgin can never be justified, though it is probable that the very act which has ob tained for him, and wUl continue to attach to his name an infamous notoriety, wiU have been the means of pre serving to the world some of the most exquisite mor ceaus of the Grecian chisel, when the Parthenon, from which they were taken, shall have mouldered into dust Lord Byron, in the midst of his indignant enthusiasra, exclaims : " Where was thine sgis, Pallas ! that appall'd Stem Alaric and Havoc on their way 1 Where Peleus' son, whom hell in vain enthrall'd, His shade from Hades upon that dread day Bursting to light in terrible array ! What, could not Pluto spare the chief once more, To scare a second robber from his prey ! Idly he wander'd on the Stygian shore. Nor now preserved the walls he loved to shield before." Harold. On the western side of the temple were 18 statues, representing beautifully the contest between Minerva and Neptune, which of these two deities should give the name to Athens. All but one of them were piUaged by Lord Elgin. Nothing can be conceived more poet ically sublime than the fiction which this tableau of sculpture portrayed to the proud and inteUectual Athe nians. Conscious, apparently, of their daring enterprise in maritime exploits, and their devotion to the highest subjects of mental culture, they did not know which of the tutelary divinities who presided over the traits which constituted and imbodied the prominent points of the national character of this great people, ou^t to have the ascendency ; if either, in fact, should be preferred over the other. Neptune and Minerva, therefore, as every temple, statue, and bas-relief multiplied in their honour tells, enjoyed, it may be said, a joint tutelary em pire over the Athenians. To judge by the relative 196 GREECE. magnitude and finish, however, of the two superb tem ples, StiU happily preserved on the Acropolis, to those two most beloved deities of Athenian worship, and also by the temple to Minerva destroyed before the time of Pericles ; the more intellectual of the two deities (Mi nerva), as would seem just, bore off the honour of pre cedence, if not supremacy, as the divinity of reason, and of genius and raind : a compliment which the Atheni ans, of aU the other people in the world, had a right to appropriate to themselves, without incurring the censure of self-glorification. The statues representing the birth of Minerva, which were on the eastern front, were de stroyed by the explosion. The tyrant Lacharis stole also the statue of gold in the temple of Victory. Nearly opposite the Parthenon, and on the other side of the margin of the rock, stands the no less beautiful, as some conceive, though smaller structure, caUed the temple of Erectheus, or the Erectheum. It was dedi cated to Erectheus, one of the early Attic kings, and who was, according to the learned Professor Anthon, undoubtedly synonymous with Neptune, deservedly a tutelary god of the Acropolis and of the Athenians, the most enterprising people of the day in commercial ad venture and naval prowess. This edifice is generally more richly carved, and, therefore, much less chaste, than the Parthenon. It is not merely to agree with others that we admire the Par thenon the raost, but because it combines simplicity and magnificence, two of the qualities most to be desired in works of art of this description. It may be said to be in architecture what Canova's Venus is in sculpture — the perfection of proportions. In our ramblings through these consecrated relics, we observed cannon-balls, shattered bomb-sheUs, bullets. GREECE. 197 and chains, and human bones in incredible abundance, being the melancholy and humiliating acquisitions or contributions of modern times, which have been super added to and mingled with the ruins of ancient raasonry. It was in wandering among the ruins of Athens, doubt less, in the midst of the strata of crania and other bones that floor the Acropolis, that Byron imagined those raag nificent lines on the human scull itself, as offering a more speaking and impressive monument than " storied urn or animated bust." " Lopk on its broken arch, its ruin'd wall. Its chambers desolate, and portals foul ; Yes, this was once Ambition's airy hall, The dome of Thought, the palace of the souL Behold through each lack-lustre, eyeless hole The gay recess of Wisdom and of Wit, And Passion's host that never brook'd control ; Can all saint, sage, or sophist ever writ. People this lonely bower, this tenement refit r' Here we had an opportunity to gratify our professional curiosity, by making a collection of a series of Greek aud Turkish sculls, the different conformations of which . . . * were strikingly characteristic ; that of the Turk being more spherical, from the early habit of bearing the tur ban, whereas the Greek is of full volume, and bold and expressive outline, comprising in its ensemble those full and salient prominences that denote the highest traits of intellect These scuUs I caused to be carefully box ed up, and am happy to say that, after a voyage of three years through the mazes of the Archipelago, they have arrived safely, and now form a valuable part of ray ex tensive collection of sculls frora various regions of the earth. Such is the quantity of human sculls and other bones that have accumulated within the Acropolis, that they form, with the masses of architectural debris, not the 198 GREECE. least irapediraent to the progress of the excavations. Where these ruins now strew the Acropolis, and be tween the Propylaea and Parthenon, stood that magnifi cent colossal statue of Minerva, in bronze, raade by Phidias. Micon engraved on her buckler the combats ofthe Lapithae and Centaurs, and, by an exquisite poetic taste peculiar to the Athenians, the statue was so placed that the crest of her helmet and the point of her lance could just be discerned above the fortress from the sea, on doubling the promontory of Sunium ; a welcome and glorious object to the gallant raariner returning horae from conquest or prosperous adventure. This superb statue existed so late as 410 years after the conquest of Athens by Alaric the Goth. A short distance from the Acropolis is the Pnyx, an other rocky elevation, near the summit of which the hill is hewn into a semicircular waU ; and in the middle of this is arranged a sort of rostrum, cut out of the solid rock, where Solon, and other great lawgivers and ora- j;ors, addressed the assembled multitudes. There is an appearance of stone seats near the rostrum, which lead to the belief that the tribunals and some other public proceedings were held here in the open air. WhUe standing on the rostrum, you have, a little on the right, a beautiful view of the Acropolis, with the Erectheum and the Parthenon, and directly in front the celebrated rock called the Areopagus, or, in modern times. Mars' Hill. The high criminal court of Athens, called the Areopagitce, and composed entirely of those ex-archons whose lives were held to be without a blemish, sat here from immemorial time ; and the name of Mars' HiU is derived from the tradition that this demigod was the first great culprit who was arraigned and tried here, for, as may easily be anticipated, the crime of genteel murder. GREECE. 199 This is the spot, too, on which St Paul stood when he addressed the Athenians. I took great interest in vis.iting it, and afterward in reading over, as I had often done before without reahzing the fuU force of the mean ing, those emphatic and sublime verses, where the apos tle, in chap. xvii. of Acts, whUe standing, no doubt, on the most pointed eminence of the Areopagus, looking upward to the pagan temples on the Acropolis, and to many, others about him, and also upon the thousand statues to gods and heroes which are supposed to have studded the entire acclivity of the hUl leading from the temple of Theseus to the Pnyx, exclaims, " Ye men of Athens, I perceive that in all things ye are too superstitious. For as I passed by, and beheld your devotions, I found an altar with this inscription, TO THE UNKNOWN GOD. Whom therefore ye ignorantiy worship, him declare I unto you. God that raade the world and all things therein, seeing that he is Lord of heaven and earth, dwelleth not in temples made with hands ; neither is worshipped with men's hands, as though he needed anything, seeing he giveth to all life, and breath, and aU things." — [Verses 22-25.] St. Paul was himself arraigned before the judges of the Areopagus as the setter forth of new gods. Our friend Mr. Pittakys, in his late valuable work, so often already cited, and entitied " L'Ancienne Athe- nes" (published at Athens, 1835), and containing a vast number of inscriptions from the monuments and frag ments there that have never before been published, be Ueves that the site of the temple to Mars was a little below the hiU of the Areopagus. The bronze doors of this teraple were transported by Constantine to Constan tinople ; as had also the bronze statues of Harmodius and Aristogiton, sculptured by Antenor and erected 200 GREECE. near this locality, been many ages before carried off by Xerxes to Persia. The two statues by which they were replaced were the work of Critias. The first two, how ever, were also recovered and sent back by Antiochus. Near those statues, on the road from the city to the for tress, once stood the two statues in gold, one to Anti- gonus, the other to his son Demetrius, mounted on a chariot From an inscription Mr. Pittakys has found on a large pedestal, he believes it to have borne the statue of Jupiter-king, that stood on the gateway of that name. Through the aid of a multitude of inscriptions discovered by Mr. Pittakys in his indefatigable re searches, he has been enabled to fix with great proba bility the sites of a great number of the magnificent statues of the gods, kings, warriors, orators, and poets, in bronze, gold, marble, &c. ; also the depository of the vases of gold and silver used in the processions ; also the sites' of temples, altars, porticoes, gates, &c., that must have once crowded in magnificent profusion the proud capital of the polished and intellectual Athe nians. One of the most striking objects upon the distant plain, on the opposite side from that of the Acropolis, is the remains of what has been erroneously called the temple of Jupiter. It is a cluster of lofty columns of great magnitude, and which must have been part of a raagnificent structure. On the tops of two or three of the columns of this edifice we saw what had the ap pearance of a wooden box, which, it seems, some eccen tric hermit, enamoured, perhaps, of the olden time, had placed there for his nest or retreat from the world be low ; to which airy habitation, however, he must have found the access extremely difficult The columns, according to Mr. Pittakys, are seven in GREECE. 201 number, of the Corinthian order, and the shafts are mon oliths, and the capitals also of a single piece. The holes in the capitals indicate, it is beheved, that on each were placed the statues, in bronze, of Adrian sent by the colonies. The diameter of the columns is four feet five inches ; the distance from one column to the other is ten feet; and that from the coluran to the wall two feet They forraed part of the front of a large square edifice, which some have thought to have been a temple to Ju piter. Mr. Pittakys doubts this, and says the mode of construction indicates that the columns did not belong to a temple, but to a portico. The capitals in a temple are never so large, and the columns are almost always channelled, and are never so near the wall as these are. He supposes also, frora its style, that it was built by the Romans, as the marble is that of Hymettus, which was preferred by this people. In fact, from the following inscription, found on a fragment which made part of this structure, the learned Pittakys concludes that the structure is the remains of the Great Portico of the Roman Emperor Adrian : ATTOKPATOPAAAPIANONOATMniONTONKTISTHNTHS STOAS AAPIA [NIAAI] The last four letters are suppUed by Mr. Pittakys. The place is at present called i^mKaXelov, the School. To the east of these columns exists the wall which formed the eastern front of this great square structure. Six pilasters are stiU to be seen there. These ruins show the extent to which Rome embellished conquer ed Athens. Adrian, among other superb structures, built this portico of 120 columns, the material of which, ac cording to Pausanias, was of Phrygian marble, within Cc 202 GREECE. which were halls decorated with paintings, and statues, and plafonds of gold and alabaster ; the whole appro priated to a library. Mr. Pittakys believes he has iden tified the foundations and twelve of the colurans (some years since disinterred) of this magnificent structure. The columns, however, are of Hymettus marble, which Mr. P. supposes to have been once painted to resemble Phrygian. To the east of this Portico of Adrian (er roneously called the temple of Jupiter) was the Gyra- nasium of this eraperor. It was ornamented with 100 columns of Libyan marble. Here Mr. Pittakys has found and given a multitude of most curious inscriptions, which speak of those who carried off the victory in the games of the Gymnasium. The feats celebrated here in honour of Adrian were called Adriania. To the south of Adrian's Portico (i. e., the misnamed temple of Jupiter) there is a large gateway, formed by four columns of the Doric order. The diameter of the columns is not less than six feet four inches. On the front of this edifice is still seen the red colour with which it was painted. Mr. Pittakys says travellers have taken this edifice for the gateway or porch of the mar ket, as on entering it there is found a pilaster, upon which is engraved a decree of the Emperor Adrian, con cerning confiscated lands of a certain Hipparchus, which decree has been mistaken for a tariff or rate of prices. But Mr. P., from an inscription he has found, has as certained it to be the temple of Minerva Archegetis, elevated by the Athenians out of the gifts they received frora Caius Julius Ccesar, The environs of this teraple, and of the portico of Adrian above raentioned, as far as the Toicer of the Winds, anciently bore the narae of KoXuvbg 'Ayupdlog, To the east of this temple was that of Ceres, and here GREECE. 203 Still exist the marble vases which the Romans used as measures for wheat and legumes, and which are still used by the people to this day. They are three in num ber ; one of which contains the half, and the other the fourth, of one quantity, represented by the largest. In the enceinte of the site of the temple of Ceres Mr. P. has found, and given us frora the fragraent of a large vase, a long catalogue of the priests who officiated in this edifice. In advancing to the east of the teraple of Minerva (above), is seen, says Mr. Pittakys, the celebrated Octa gon Tower of the Winds, erected by the Athenian astronomer Andronicus Cyrrhestes, B.C. 159. No men tion is raade of it by Pausanias. On each facade are represented the winds, with their different erablems. The direction of each figure answers to the wind which it represents with a precision which the French astronomer Delarabre has verified and described to be of astonishing exactitude. The name of each wind is written in large characters on the wings of the figure. On the north we see Boreas, under the form of an old man with two wings, and his feet in buskins, and in the act of covering a part of his face with his mantle. On the northwest is the wind HKsipov, so called be cause it came from the direction ofthe rocks which were called SKEipuviat. llirpai. He is figured with a beard, man tle, and buskins, and holds in his hands a vase of water, to show that he brings rain. The third figure is Zephyrus, or the west wind, a youth with wings, and the chest and feet uncovered. He seems to be reposing upon his wings, and bears aU sorts of flowers in his mantle. The fourth, the southwest, is called Ati/-, because it blows frora Libya. It is represented with exquisite 204 GREECE. taste, like all the rest, under its "peculiar fignire, which is here a young man holding in his hand an instrument of rausic. The fifth is the south, raore aged than the last, and holding a lyre. The sixth is the southeast, and naraed Eurus, from its force, and beautifully represented under the form of a man flying with great rapidity. ' The seventh is the east, or A.TTr]Xiu)TT)g, because it comes from the quarter of the rising sun. It is a young man bearing in the folds of his mantle all kinds of fruit. The eighth is the northeast, or KaiKiag, from the River Kaukus, in Asia. An old man, with olives in a basket, and which he seems desirous to scatter. Lower are traced the solar dials, according to the changes of the day and seasons, and also most exactly and scientifically arranged. On the roof was a small pyramid of marble, bearing the bronze Triton, who held in the right hand a wand, with which he significantly pointed out the direction of the wind, turning, like a weathercock, to whatever quar ter it blew frora. The stones of the roof, says our learned author, are to the nuraber of 24, and end above in a circular stone. Perhaps they embleraaticaUy represent, says he, the 24 hours of the day. On the south and in the interior of this surprising and most ingenious monument, is seen the cistern into which was conducted, by an aqueduct, the water of the fountain of Clepsydra. A part of this aqueduct still exists, and was built, as appears frora an inscription found by Mr. P., by Demetrius Maro. The aqueduct is perfectly distinguishable. The water arrived in a first cistern, and passed frora thence by a canal in its GREECE. 205 middle." A statue of Triton, elevated on this last cis tern, turned by the raovenient of the water. This statue indicated with a wand the hours inscribed on the tablets around and outside of the temple. Could anything in the boasted human ingenuity of modern machinery and mechanism be compared with the poetry, and yet profound science, of this admirable relic, discoursing, under the most captivating and fanci ful imagery of fable, with the exact precision of dry mathematical problems ; portraying and faithfully meas uring, by one beautiful and harmonious piece of mechan ism, the speedy-footed hours and the revolving seasons, as they fiercely rushed or glided mord calmly by on the wings of the ever- varying wind 1 Each faqade is ten feet wide, and its whole circum ference eighty. The architecture of this edifice leads to the belief that it was constructed at the epoch when Scipio Nasica caused to be built a clock at Rome, i. e., B.C. 159. So that this proud people owed to that Latium, that felt honoured in her indebtedness to her polished Gre cian subjects, this raost elaborately-wrought and won derful specimen of Roman genius, science, and taste. Mr. Hill's first residence at Athens was in a ruined temple. He lived in this until the houses began to be rebuilt after their destruction by the Turks, and now occupies a spacious modern edifice, one of the most convenient in the city. His school buildings are in an other part of the city, and are of ample dimensions, and constructed on the most raodern approved plans. During the reign of the Ptolemies, Greece, which had borrowed her raythology and architecture from Egypt, and so charmingly embeUished and beautified both, now, in her subjugate condition to the successors of the Ma- 206 GREECE. cedonian conqueror, saw erected among the chaste and exquisite temples which sh^ had so religiously preserved from the time of Pericles, others for the rude worship of the gods of the NUe. In the city of Athens an edi fice of this kind was erected to the god Serapis. It was destroyed by an earthquake ; but some ruins of it still existed in the year 1700. Mr. Pittakys has recently found, near the supposed locality of this temple, the fol lowing remarkable inscription : 2APAniAi KAieEoisAirrnTiois. Statues to the different Ptolemies were also erected in front of the Odeon. The small monument which has been erroneously caUed the Lantern of Diogenes, &c., and which is a chef d'oeuvre of architecture, is clearly proved by Mr. Pittakys to have been erected in honour of Bacchus by Lysicrates, after a victory the latter had gained in the theatre. Praxiteles laboured in its construction. Among other errors of travellers, Mr. Pittakys shows that they have erroneously translated the inscriptions on the so-called triuraphal arch of Adrian, which he proves to have been erected by the Athenians to distinguish the ancient city of Theseus frora that of Adrian. The foundations only reraain of that vast colossal and wonderful teraple erected to Jupiter, begun by Pisistra tus 530 years B.C., and not corapleted until 670 years after his death, by the munificent restorer and decorator of Athens, the Roman Eraperor Adrian. It was sur rounded by 124 columns, each six feet in diameter and 60 feet high. The circumference of the platform is 2300 feet. The temple, among other gorgeous objects, contained a statue of Jupiter, made of ivory and gold. Mr. Pittakys has found no less than 70 of the pedestals GREECE. 207 which supported the superb statues of this teraple. The inscriptions upon thera wUl be given in his intended work on the Topography of Attica. The Stadium for chariot-races is another ruin in fine preservation. It is near the Ilyssus, and was founded by Lycurgus the orator, 350 years B.C. The length of its arena is 780 feet, and breadth 137 feet at one ex tremity, and 176 at the other. About 500 years after its first construction, it was beautifully rebuilt in white raar- ble by Herodes Atticus, who -had been crowned with a prize gained here. A turaulus near by is supposed by Mr. Pittakys to be his grave. There are fifteen rows of seats on each side the Stadiura, capable of accoramo- dating 35,000 persons — the number present when the Emperor Adrian presided over the games. He also pre sented 1000 wild beasts to be chased here. The scattered, broken fragments of ancient relics in Athens possess extraordinary interest in themselves, as most of them, though sadly shattered, present portions of blocks of marble, pedestals, sepulchral columns and altars, and mutilated statues, more or less covered with inscriptions, all of which derive their historic value from elucidating the history of the splendid structures into which they once entered, but which have long since disappeared. Having thus cursorily glanced at the ruins of this memorable city, we next, through the poUteness of our consul, Mr. Perdicaris, were presented to King Otho and his Queen. We accompanied Mr. P., at the hour ap pointed, to the royal palace, a plain, private gentieman's residence, in the suburbs of the city. In a few minutes after our arrival we were introduced into the presence of his Grecian Majesty, and were presented to him and his young and beautifiil queen by our American repre- 208 GREECE. sentative, whom we had accompanied, as already stated. No other formality was exacted at this court but the dress of a private gentleman, which, I am most happy to say, accorded perfectly with my own ideas of true nobility and republican simpUcity„ which, by-the-by are much nearer neighbours than many imagine. Every American, indeed, who has mingled much in the pageantry and erapty parade of foreign courts, and especially participated in the tedious raummery of those of Oriental countries, must return to his native land with a new rehsh for the enjoyment of those plain and sim ple habits in which we are educated, and which, we trust, will be forever cherished among us as our house hold gods. King Otho, a tall and well-formed Bavarian youth, of light hair and mustaches, and the face and complex ion of the German cast, received us with great urbanity. He was dressed in a military costume of his native country ; though I had seen hira on a forraer occasion, in the midst of his people, in a splendid Grecian dress, which also well became his fine person; He frequently walks out unattended and without any of his guards ; adopting, in this respect, the domestic habits and famil iarity of many of the German princes. He conversed with us in the French language, which he spoke but indifferently well, and which, owing to a slight stararaer, rendered his reraarks almost unintelligible. There was nobody present but the queen, who is exceedingly beau tiful and affable, and spoke the French with great fluency. They made many inquiries about the state of our country, and alluded in terms of praise to what the Americans had done for the poor Greeks. The queen was dressed as a European lady, which furnished a GREECE. 209 topic of conversation to several of the party, who had seen her in some of the Greek festivities the evening previous, when she was attired in the rich Albanian cos tume of the country. Forgetting, in our repubhcan sim pUcity, the usual royal etiquette of courts, we not only answered, hat put questions, and accordingly commenced by remarking that we scarcely recognised her in her present dress. Commenting upon which, she said that it was with reluctance that she had appeared in the cos tume and under the circumstances under which we had first seen her ; but that she had done so to gratify the wishes of her people. Her majesty, in complexion and feature, has all the characteristics of a fair-haired Ger man beauty, and would be considered beautiful in any walk of life. Her admiration for Greece, as she said, had ever been enthusiastic, and that from her very girl hood she had always thought or surmised that her des tiny would be identified with that people ; adding, thd.t it was with an exulting feeling, disconnected from her position, that she first set foot on that glorious soil; thereby realizing all her earliest and fondest anticipa tions. The impassioned and German sincerity with which she dwelt on these topics was often a subject of remark in our future travellings. After a very agreeable interview of about half an hour, and when we were about to make our obeisance and retire, I asked the king if he would accept of two pieces of American coin. One was of gold and the other of silver, both of the last emissions. He gracious ly consented, and I placed them in his hand as a me mento of our country, and took my leave. A few days after cards of invitation were issued from the palace for a grand baU. We were invited among the number, " au nom du roi," and on the evening indi- Dd 210 GREECE. cated in the note we repaired to King Otho's raansion, where we found the rooms plainly lighted and fur nished, without any sort of regal pomp, and a collec tion of about 150 persons present, the greatest portion of whom were the diplomatic corps and their suites, together with the cabinet ministers and the chief mili tary officers attached to the court. All the military officers were in German costumes. As most of those present spoke French, the conversational part of the en tertainment passed off the more agreeably. There were probably 50 ladies, chiefly of the Grecian, Russian, and English nobility, and the greater part of thera attired in the Frank costume, but very few had rauch pretension to beauty. Shortly after our arrival, the music commenced from a fine Bavarian band ; and, after playing an air or two, the king, accompanied by the queen, entered the apart ments (consisting of only two large rooms), and all rose up to receive them. Immediately, after a few salutations, their majesties opened the ball in person. The queen was richly dressed in the Frank or European costume, and loaded with diamonds. At the conclusion of the first quadrilles, all restraint seemed to be removed from the company present ; and the evening passed away, and eve rything was as easy and sociable as at a private party or soiree in our own country. No etiquette as to dress was demanded. We went in the plain black costume of a private citizen. Not even the diplomatic personages, I believe, were dressed differently from myself, with the exception of our consul, who was in fuU court dress, from a reverence for his adopted country, America. Our party of four were the only foreigners present, and the baU was an uncommon event In perfect keeping with the plain style of this entertainment, it may be remark- GREECE. 211 ed that the refreshments were of the most frugal kind, and placed on side-tables in one of the apartments, where the company served themselves at their pleasure. What interested me raost particularly was the grati fication, through the politeness of Mr. Perdicaris, of being introduced by him to the raost distinguished he roes of the revolution ; men in that country who occupy as high a rank, and are held in as high esteem in the hearts of their Greek countrymen, as our patriot fathers of America are with us. Among them was the noble Petrombi, who defended . the modern Sparta as bravely as Leonidas did of old, and whose tall, imposing, and muscular form and classic features, admirably set off as they were by the drapery of his Greek costume and red cap, realized completely the exalted idea that one would forra of a Spartan hero. When he found I was an American, his war-worn fea tures brightened up and his eyes sparkled with joy. This was the eloquent language in which he expressed his gratification, as he knew no other common tongue in which we could converse. Here, also, I was presented to the famous Colocotroni, also a venerable personage, of Herculean stature and great dignity and ease of manner, that might well be supposed to have been legitimately inherited from proud ancestral hneage of the best days of Greece. His his tory is too familiarly known to require any eulogistic notice of mine in this place. Here, again, I met my esteemed friend Pittakys. Among others, I was presented to the celebrated Mauro Michaelis, another Ulustrious Greek. And what de lighted me not a little was to have the honour of an in troduction to no less a person than Constantine, the brother of the chivalrous and lamented Marco Bozzaris, 212 GREECE. and also to the son of that sainted herf# himself. . The brother of Marco Bozzaris was of the same tall figure and fine mould as the illustrious Greeks we have al ready mentioned ; and looked, and walked, and acted, in his superb raUitary Greek costurae, as became one so nearly related to the raost idolized of the modern war riors that this land has produced. WhUe conversing with this great man, the aidde- carap of the king intiraated to one of my friends that the queen expressed a desire to honour me with her hand for the next dance or waltz ; which mark of royal favour on the part of her majesty I was compelled re luctantly to decline, from having long since become rather rusty in these juvenile exercises. To make amends, however, for my deficiencies, some of my com panions did double duty. Among our lovely countrywomen, Mrs. Perdicaris shown conspicuous. The ensemble of the ball was imposing, from the variety and brilliancy of costume, rather than the beauty or tournure of the ladies. The latter deficiencies, with some prominent exceptions, were raarked and striking. Araid those exceptions, the queen and the ladies of honour were unrivalled ; and rarely have I seen such perfect beauty as was presented in the form and features of one of the latter. I had seen and been much struck with her appearance on our present ation a few days before ; but as she kept rather in the background, and such of us as spoke French were fully occupied with royalty, we learned nothing of her rank or name. What was my surprise when, on an introduc tion, I found her to be the daughter of Marco Bozzaris. Her limited knowledge of French prevented any length ened conversation, but afforded me ample time to scan her less intellectual qualities. Her features were beau- GREECE. 213 tifully classic, and bear, as I was informed, a striking resemblance to those of her iUustrious father ; a heritage of which, with his imraortal name, she may well be proud. His manly attributes of courage, of dogged res olution and perseverance even under defeat, seem, with his sword, to have descended to his son, who is a no ble-looking young officer, and, to judge from appear ance, a worthy successor of his sire ; while the gentler qualities of his head and heart, which so endeared hira in the doraestic circle, have, with his personal beauty, legitimately fallen to his daughter. These are their only inheritance, for Bozzaris died poor. One of my com panions, fascinated, like myself, with her peculiar beauty and demi-Grecian costurae, succeeded in drawing her, towards the latter part of the evening, into conversa tion in Italian, in which language she seemed more au fait. She spoke of her father, and her eyes sparkled as she did so. She said she knew we were country men of Halleck, who had written some stanzas in mem ory of her father ; that she was learning English (though very slowly, as she had no teacher), that she might read thera, as she heard they were very beautiful in the original. She made many inquiries of America, of which country she knew nothing, except as associated with Halleck and the mission of Mr. and Mrs. HUl, of whom (in common with every inteUigent person in Greece with whom we conversed) she spoke in terms of great eulogy. It would perhaps be gratifying to our distinguished countryman, Mr. HaUeck, to know that this charming girl declared, with aU the commendable frankness and na'ivete imaginable, that she had an ardent desire to go to Araerica expressly to see him. She spoke of several American gentiemen who had visited her mother at 214 GREECE. Missilonghi,* at a time when they were coraparatively destitute, and dwelt with much satisfaction upon that visit ; for, though unable to converse much with them, she was made happy in the knowledge that her father's name was known and reverenced so far beyond the confines of Greece. She was asked to dance, and seemed almost offended that every one did not know that a true Greek girl never dances except with her own sex. When she threw off the fez, she said, she would throw modesty aside, and learn to waltz ; but not till then. A distinc tion was insisted on between waltzing and dancing, but she would recognise none. The rausic for the ever lasting raazourka now stopped, and a grand raarch suc ceeded, as the finale to the evening. In this, to my astonishment, she took the hand of my companion and foUowed in the wake of the queen. Some of our party called on her on the following day, which served only to confirm the evening's im pressions. I could not but reflect at the tirae, what a delight it would have been to our own poet Halleck to have wit nessed the brother and the orphan children of that godlike man, whose virtues and exploits he himself has embalmed in our meraories in those remarkable lines, which have rendered both the hero and the poet doubly immortal : " Bozzaris ! with the storied brave Greece nurtured in her glory's time. Rest thee ; there is no prouder grave Even in her own proud clime. She wore no funeral weeds for thee. Nor bade the dark hearse wave its plume. Like torn branch from Death's leafless tree. In sorrow's pomp and pageantry, The heartless luxury of the tomb. * Probably Mr. Stephens and party ; as Mr. S., we find, in his tour in the East, speaks of a visit at Missilonghi to the widow of Bozzaris. GREECE. 215 But she remembers thee as one Long loved, and for a season gone. For thee her poet's lyre is wreath'd. Her marble wrought, her music breathed ; For thee she rings the birthday bells ; Of thee her babes' first lisping tells ; For thine her evening prayer is said, A palace couch and cottage bed. Her soldier, closing with the foe. Gives for thy sake a deadlier blow ; His plighted maiden, when she fears For him, the joy of her young years. Thinks of thy fate and checks her tears : And she, the mother of thy boys. Though in her eye and faded cheek Is read the grief she will not speak. The memory of her buried joys. And even she who gave thee birth. Will, by their pilgrim-circled hearth. Talk of thy doom without a sigh ; For thou art Freedom's now, and Fame's, One of the few, the immortal names. That were not born to die." [Extract from poem of Bozzaris by Halleck.] King Otho and his queen are among the few rare in stances where royalty has not marred the quiet com forts of domestic life. They live in a very retired and plain way, appear much attached to each other, and by their discreet and economical conduct are evidently ac quiring great popularity among their subjects. It may be considered fortunate for Greece that the European powers have selected a raonarch for this country, as it is exceedingly questionable if their aspiring chieftains could ever agree araong themselves who should hold this dignity. As an evidence of the unostentatious man ner in which Otho and his consort live, we remember, on one occasion, in returning with the king's physician. Dr. Raisor, from a visit to one of his patients, he ask ed me if I would pass through the garden of the palace, when I noticed a lady, en deshabille, leaning out of one of the windows. On asking him who it was, he told me 216 GREECE. it was the queen, and, when looking again, I immedi ately recognised her. We, of course, observed the eti quette due to royalty, and passed along without appear ing to see her. On this occasion she was listening to the rausic, and observing the soldiers raounting guard. A new royal palace, of Pentelican raarble, but of plain structure, was being erected on a coraraanding situation in the environs of the city while I was there, but the work was stopped for want of means. Among the modern edifices of Athens, and which do great credit to the superintending care of the govern ment, is the miUtary and civil hospital, a large and com modious edifice of marble, built after the best European modes of construction. I was waited upon by the chief surgeon, who conducted me through every part of it, and politely explained to me the economy and regula tions of the establishment The building is capable of containing about 300 patients, and had at the time about half that number. There was nothing of inter est in the surgical department, but in the medical I saw a number of protracted cases of the endemial remittent and intermittent fevers peculiar to the environs of Ath ens, more or less complicated with the usual organic affections, and especially hypertrophy, or enlargement of the spleen, and hydropic effusions. The surgeon in formed me that arsenic, in these cases, was found one of the most efficacious of the remedial means. In the basement of the hospital he directed my attention to the stone floor, which he had ordered to be washed off for my inspection. I found it to be one vast piece of an cient mosaic, which he said probably had been the site of the principal theatre in former times. It was of ex quisite beauty and workmanship, and surpassed any thing of the kind I saw in Athens. Littie did those GREECE. 217 who executed this elaborate composition, imagine that it would ever grace the basement floor of an institution, devoted to purposes so rauch raore useful than the build ing which it is once supposed to have ornamented. We confess that it appeared to us in a locality not altogether appropriate, though the sacredness with which such charities are regarded, under every conflict and revolu tion, even by barbarians, may probably prove that this selection was the best means that could have been de vised for its preservation. There is a very small school of medicine connected with this establishment, consisting of about a dozen stu dents. The professors are all Germans, aifd lecture to the pupUs in the modern Greek language. "They appear to be intelligent and remarkably weU educated men, and converse fluently in French, and some of them even in the English language. This high tone of cultivation did not surprise us, from our personal knowledge of the elevated condition of aU sciences in Germany, as we have already described in our tour through that exten sive country. Among the most distinguished of the physicians and surgeons at Athens, and to whom we here render our acknowledgments for his politeness and attention during our several visits there (as we made it our headquarters in our various excursions through Greece), is Dr. Raisor, the chief physician to King Otho. During my frequent interviews with him and several of the other professors, I learned the pecuhar character of the enderaial fever, which prevails more especially in Athens and its immediate environs. I found it to be a remittent form of disease, generally ac companied with a remarkable cerebral congestion, which constitutes one of its characteristic and leading features, and much more so than usually attends this type in E E 218 GREECE. Other countries ; thus rendering it uncommonly fatal to the unacclimated stranger frora raore northern latitudes. Dr. R. informed me that during sorae seasons it swept off almost entire regiments of the Bavarian soldiers. Even to strangers who visit this capital only for a short tirae, it frequently proves fatal, during the early and con gestive stage of the disease. During one of my visits at Athens, Dr. Raisor waited upon me at the hotel to invite me to visit with hira in the palace an autopsy of one of the favourite German chamberraaids of the queen, who had died of this dis ease. Unfortunately, the morning that he called I was out, and I thereby lost the opportunity of witnessing this interesting examination. He afterward informed rae that they found what they had anticipated — a conges tive state of the brain and its investing membranes, with more or less effusion. From the observations I made upon myself and oth ers in this country, I ara satisfied that this cerebral tendency in fevers exists to a great extent, and that the greatest caution is necessary in the use of all stiraula- ting and exciting drinks and food ; and that nothing is more imperatively demanded than that travellers should studiously abstain frora their usual indulgences. There appears to rae, indeed, something peculiarly exciting in the air of that country ; for I remarked in myself that I could endure a greater degree of fatigue than usual, of mind and body, without a feeling of exhaustion, or with out the necessity even of the ordinary amount of Ught wine and generous food which I was accustomed to take. And I was also told that the caution was given to strangers to be particularly abstemious, and that those who disregarded this advice frequently fell victims to the congestive form of fever mentioned. My friend GREECE. 219 Mr. HUl told me that, in his pastoral duties, he had oc casion every season to bury Europeans who had neg lected to foUow the prudent course recommended to them, but who had persisted in hving at Athens in the same generous manner they had been accustomed to at home. It would be a subject of curious inquiry, whether the remarkably exciting purity of the atmosphere of this country, may not have had its influence in developing the high mental and moral endowments, as well as in moulding the exquisitely fine physical forms of the an cient Greeks. As it is an admitted truth, from the raul- tiplied models we have of the perfected outline of the lineaments and organization of that people in former times, that they were a variety ofthe huraan species of a far higher cast than has perhaps ever existed else where, and a race of men from whom we might have anticipated such enduring, palpable, and incontestable evidences as they have left to us, of their intellectual su periority, both in their literary and architectural monu ments. It is to be hoped, that under the auspices of the en lightened body of scientific men who now reside in Greece, and through the liberal encouragement and pro tection they receive from their king, that some interest ing investigations may be undertaken on the subject of climactic influences, and that a close comparison may be instituted between the character of the diseases which existed in ancient times and those of the present day. The early and celebrated Greek writers on medicine, it is confidently believed, have left faithful and exact portraitures of the fevers and other diseases to which they were eyewitnesses, so far as we are able to judge by comparing thera with the monographs of the same 220 GREECE. diseases in our times. It is therefore to be presumed that such of their delineations whose verisimilitude we have not yet recognised, or which we may have thought exaggerated or erroneous, may have also had an actual existence, and that the present opportunities of pursuing scientific researches in that country with security, may enable the moderns to corroborate and identify all the descriptions of the ancient writers. I was not only made delightfully sensible of the ex hilarating effect upon my own feelings of the elastic buoyancy of the atmosphere of this country, but also was struck with its remarkable translucency ; or, in other words, the surprising distance to which objects could be seen ; not magnified, as they would be in a tumid state of the air, by what is called looming, from the greater refraction of the rays of light, but their out lines so clearly and distinctly defined, that they appeared very near, when, in reality, they were very remote. I never, in any country, was so completely deceived in this respect as I was in Greece ; and in travelling in various directions, I often remarked to my companions, and they were also forcibly impressed with the fact that mountains and other conspicuous objects seemed to us frequently close at hand, when, in truth, to our sorrow, wending our way over bad roads and under a burning sun, we found them raany mUes off: an optical illusion which I never saw in any other country. Can it be possible, from the extremely mountainous character of Greece, and from most of the elevations being entirely bald, and destitute of wood and foliage, producing only scattered tufts of the wUd thyme, and from the fact that the geological formations of rock are almost invariably calcareous, that the consequent dryness of the atmo sphere may have something to do with the curious phe nomenon we have mentioned 1 GREECE. 221 Such is the remarkable barrenness and sterility of one range of mountains in the Morea, that they are very aptly and significantly called by the classical epithet of Arachne, or the Spider Web, to which, in truth, when viewed, as we saw them, waving and undulating in their irregular and confused outlines, they bore a striking re semblance. Having spoken to Dr. Raisor of the Lepra of that country, and expressing a great desire to examine the character of it, he very kindly gave rae his views on the subject, and invited me to witness the disease for my self in some of his patients. In company with hira and ray worthy travelling companion. Dr. Jackson, of this city, we repaired to the residence of a family in which a young man was affected with the disease. I examined him with great care and minuteness, heard the history of his symptoms, and saw the disease for myself, as it now affected his throat I ascertained that the affection commenced in its primary stage in the same parts as those attacked by the Syphilitic virus, and that the ul cerative appearances in each bore a striking resem blance, both in that stage and in the constitutional or secondary forra, which latter truth I rayself can attest to from the case under my inspection. The primary ulcerations, as well as those in the throat, were harder, and with edges more callous, elevated, and irregular, than is usually seen in common cases of Lues ; but they were such as I have seen occasionally in the Lues of our own country. The same character of ulceration was visible in the throat of this patient ; and immedi ately upon looking into it I reraarked to Dr. R. that this was certainly a forra of Lues, to which opinion Dr. J. gave also his full concurrence. It passes through the same stages as ordinary Lues, from the throat to the 222 GREECE. skin, and, lastly, to the bones. I am therefore of the opinion, from what I saw, that the Lepra of the Greeks is a more forraidable, and apparently a raore chronic disease than modern Syphilis, but legitimately descended from the same parentage. If the Leprosy of the patri archs of old was the sarae disease as the Lepra of Greece, and which latter I afterward found, to ray satis faction, to be the same as the Lepra of Egypt, it is my opinion that the ancient leprosy is the great progenitor of them aU, and that chmate, habits of life, constitution, and difference of race, make all the modifications which it has assumed in different countries and ages. I come to this conclusion without any feeling or wish to remove the odium which is unkindly thrown upon our country, of having given birth to so loathsorae a raalady. These convictions are the result of careful observation and mature reflection during my journeyings in Europe and the East We have no doubt in our minds, that when the ancient Lepra and modern Lues shall be more closely studied and accurately compared, their identity wiU be made more and more manifest ; and if the Lep rosy of the Scriptures be the same as the present Lep rosy of the East, the question is narrowed down to small limits, and the inference is legitimate and unavoid able. It raay be cited in- evidence of their analogy, that Eastern nations hold a leprous person in the greatest detestation and abhorrence, insorauch that they are raade outcasts of society. They are placed in habitations by themselves alone, and forbidden to have intercourse with their neighbours ; as is illustrated in some of the Eastern cities, where leprous houses are pointed out, undergoing as rigid a quarantine as if the disease were the true Plague. And soraetiraes leprous subjects are driven out side the gates and turned into the fields and raountains. GREECE. 223 as though they were beasts. One instance of this I saw afterward on the plains of Argos in Greece ; the poor victim being a man, who was wandering alone in the fields, and obhged to seek shelter in the clefts of the rock. In one of my visits to Dr. Raiser's house a man pre sented himself, accompanied by a priest Upon asking the doctor what it meant, he informed me that the man came to state to hira that his wife laboured under the Lepra in its incipient stage, and that he only desired the doctor's assent to the character of the disease, in the presence of the clergyman, to obtain a divorce. The doctor assured me that his opinion was sufficient to ef fect this ; and that the civil and ecclesiastical law of Greece authorized a divorce under such circumstances. Does not this fact, in relation to the common prejudice in the community, seem to countenance and confirm the opinion which we have ventured to advance 1 For there is no other disease of modern times but Lues which iraplies a similar moral reproach on the charac ter of married persons, or that would seera to justify such a procedure. Another feature in the character of this disease by which its identity with Lues is stiU farther estabUshed, is in the sirailarity of the remedies for both, which are mercurial and arsenical. This I ascertained afterward to be the practice in Egypt as weU as in Greece. The physicians in each informed me that in the early stage of Lepra, the mercurial treatment was successful, and that in the confirmed or secondary stages, where debility and irritabiUty existed, either from the continuance of the disease, or too much mercurial practice, the tonic treatraent by arsenic was the most efficacious ; aU of which is in general accordance with the experience of 224 GREECE. practitioners in the treatment of Lues in our own country. As an evidence of the advance of surgery in Greece, we may mention that the great modern operations upon the arteries are thought of in that regenerated country. We were invited by Dr. Raisor to give our opinion ou a Greek patient of his in whom he proposed to tie the external iliac artery. It was a malignant tumour of the character of fungus haematodes, and situated in the upper part of the thigh. Upon examining the case, I found his general health so rauch impaired by it, and the disease already so far advanced, having reached as high as the crural arch, that I advised him by no raeans to resort to the expedient of tying the artery, even as a paUiative resource. He readily acquiesced in this de cision, and said he should not perform the operation. In addition to the presumed influence of cliraate in promoting health and in developing among the ancient Greeks a more perfect form to the human figure, there is no doubt that their Olympic sports and gymnastic ex ercises, which were an indispensable part of the educa tion of their youth, contributed largely to the same results. We visited, in the environs of Athens, the beautiful spot on .the site of the ancient military school of the Lyceum, selected afterward by Aristotle for his pupils in peripatetic philosophy, and for athletic exercises and games of strength. This Lyceum was one of the first gymnasiums of Athens, and was so called from the hero Lycus. It was consecrated to Apollo, and hence he was called ApoUo Lycias. Here the Athenian youth inscribed their names as defenders of their country, and practised in mihtary exercises. It was ornaraented with trees and fountains, and also possessed a botanic garden. GREECE. 225 Near this spot is the site of the classic streara of Ilyssus, of which though we read in the ancient writers as one of the notable rivers in the vicinity of Athens, that was the chief supply of its water, is now not even a running brook, much less a creek in size ; only a little stagnant pool being here and there visible upon its pebbly bed, and not one of its nine outlets, rather pompously de nominated Enneacrounos, had a drop of water running through it. Nor, as we were told, are they ever much replenished, even during the rainy season, though then aided by the Heridan and other strearalets frora the arid suramits of Hyraettus. The Ilyssus was consecrated to different divinities, and particularly to the Muses, to whora the Athenians erected an altar on its banks. Plato speaks of a Piata- nus tree in the parks that adorned this streara, as one of prodigious height It is believed that the bosques on this river were a favourite promenade of the Athenians. The waters of the Ilyssus were sacred, being used in some of the smaUer ceremonies of the Eleusinian mys teries. The remains of the foundations of the great theatre to Bacchus are traceable in the rock on the south of the fortress ; thus placed that it raight have a warmer exposure. It could hold 30,000 spectators, and near it was the temple of Bacchus, within which was the statue of ivory and gold to that god, the work of the famous artist Alcamenes. Here, also, was a grand por tico, to which the spectators at the theatre retired for shelter when it rained. The reraains of this portico still exist. It' connected the theatre of Bacchus with the Odeon, erected by Herodes Atticus, a rich Athe nian, in honour of his wife RegUla, of one of the first farailies of Rome, and who died suddenly of apoplexy. This Odeon was a theatrical edifice about 260 feet in F F 226 GREECE. diameter, and could contain 10,000 spectators. Three tiers of its arcades, in a ruinous state, still exist. The place for the scene was of an oblong shape. We cannot help again recurring to our exceUent friend Pittakys, whose conversations, in addition to his invaluable work, were and are our constant text-book in nearly all that we have to say of the monumental treasures of Athens. As was truly remarked of the im mortal Cuvier, that frora his intimate and profound fa miliarity with the structure of animal organization, he could, frora a solitary fragment of bone, at once pro nounce its original position, and the animal to which it belonged, verifying the old adage, " ex pede Herculem," so would it appear that the profound knowledge which the learned Pittakys possesses of the history of Athenian monuments, has enabled him, in his examination of the iraraense number of inscriptions, either of the 800 he has discovered himself or those never yet satisfactorily explained, on fragments of rock, blocks of marble, col umns, altars, pedestals, &c., to detect at once the iden tical edifice of which they once formed a component part. In relation to the famed Mountain of Hymettus, we can of our own experience aver, that there is nothing fabulous in the reputed delicious flavour and unparal leled sweetness of its celebrated honey. The bees make it - entirely of the wild thyme which abounds in these mountains, and the plant must afford a rauch greater amount of saccharine matter than one would imagine. It certainly possesses a more aromatic perfume than any species that we have met with elsewhere. The very air around is fragrant with its delicious odour, and it is strongly perceptible in the honey, which is superior in GREECE. 227 quaUty to any that I have ever tasted, and richly raerits the laudatory encoraiums of the ancient poets. Having mentioned the little river Ilyssus, we can do no more than pay a visit to the big river Cephissus, which is on the opposite side of the plain of Athens. It is a small running stream, of about four feet wide and one in depth. Besides being one of the wonderful riv ers of this classic country, it is particularly interesting to a traveUer, as passing along through the vale on which is situated the faraed Academia, or Grove of Plato. By ron's constantly-recurring lines on almost every object of interest in Greece, here vividly presented themselves to us. " The Groves of Olive, scatter'd dark and wide. Where meek Cephissus sheds his scanty tide ; The cypress saddening by the sacred masque ; The gleaming turret of the gay kiosk ; * And dun and sombre mid the holy calm. Near Theseus' fane yon solitary palm ; All tinged with varied hues, arrest the eye. And dull, were his that pass'd them heedless by." This palm, by-the-way, is no small feature in the land scape. As for the cypress and the kiosk, both emble- raatic of Turkish sway, they were destroyed since Byron wrote, in the rage to obliterate all traces of their an cient masters. The Grove of Olives is yet there, con sisting mostly of huge trees, some of which had an ap pearance of antiquity, from their extraordinary size and their rugged and gnarled trunks and branches, which might well carry us back to those days when the im mortal philosopher here meditated and soliloquiized, and discoursed in such subhme language to his pupils. The same enormous and ancient olives are not only to be seen here, but also through the extensive plain reaching from this spot towards the Piraeus ; and as a traveUer, I feel confident that I shall not be amenable to 228 GREECE. the charge of credulity, if I assert that it is my opinion that many of them are the veritable and identical trees under whose shade Plato raay have reposed. From my comparison of them with others in Italy and France, and their weU-known longevity, I could not but feel im pressed with this truth, and that these trees were totally different from anything of the kind I had yet met with. I could not help making this remark to my companions the raoraent we started from the Piraeus on our way to Athens. In our rambles about Athens, I must not omit to men tion the gratification it afforded me to see inscribed over the archway of a door the word *IAAAEA*OS, which led into a vacant lot of some extent The word called to mind most agreeably our own beautiful Araer- ican city of brotherly love, and on inquiry I found that this enclosure belonged to one of our own countrymen, the missionary Dr. King ; and it gives me great pleasure to avail myself of this opportunity to express my thanks to him for his kindness and urbanity to me on all oc casions during my residence at Athens. His high in tellectual endowments and remarkable modesty entitle him to a very elevated rank among our raissionaries abroad. These qualities raust eventually ensure him a fiill measure of that success which in our opinion he so eminently deserves. Araong the advantages he possesses over others, is not only his thorough acquaintance with the modern Greek tongue, in which he fluently preaches, but also with the Arabic language, in which he converses with ease, and in which he wrote for us several kind letters of introduction to the East ; among others, one to the governor of Jerusalera, and another to that ec- GREECE. 229 centric lady, Hester Stanhope. Having married a na tive Greek lady frora Smyrna, and one of the most beau tiful and interesting women we saw in Greece, his op portunities of becoming familiar with the Greek language and people have been thereby greatly, facilitated. Having now, under the very favourable auspices of the marked attentions and kindness with which I was treated at Athens, had an opportunity of having all the most remarkable objects of this wonderful re^on clearly and intelhgibly explained to me, in a more satisfactory manner than faUs to the lot of most travellers, I raade preparations to visit the battle-ground of Marathon. Our cavalcade was composed of my three companions, ray servant, and myself, each mounted on one of the dimin utive horses of this country, accompanied by a Greek guide, also mounted, and who, with my servant, took charge of our blankets, with a smaU stock of provisions. After a journey of several hours, passing over Penteli- cus and other ranges of raountains, through a dreary and romantic region, where scarcely any verdure was seen but the wild thyme and brushwood, and not, as we reraember, a single habitation of a human being, we de scried from a lofty elevation the extensive and memora ble plain of Marathon, imbosomed on all sides by mount ains, except where the plain reaches down to the sea. We descended to it by the same zigzag raountain path by which we had traveUed from Athens, there being no carriage roads in scarcely any part of Greece. Our road, indeed, raay be said to have been through the beds of mountain torrents, with the earth washed awa'y, leaving the sharp rocks exposed. We proceeded to a small village on the plain at the foot of the raountain, comprising not perhaps over one hundred inhabitants, occupying miserable tenements. In 230 GREECE. one of the best of these habitations we took up our quar ters. It was the residence of the Demarch or principal civil officer, equivalent to mayor, who, as is the usage in this country towards strangers and traveUers, opened his house for our accoraraodation. We were shown up a few crazy steps- into the best apartment of our host, which resembled very much the upper loft of a barn, having neither a chair, table, nor bed. After being re galed with an humble supper, which we had brought with us, and which our servants served up to us on a box, we sitting on the floor to partake of it, and enjoying this picnic with rauch relish after our fatigue, each prepared his own nest for the night. Our bedding apparatus consisted of a blanket apiece, excepting one of my com panions, who, being rather indifferently provided, had to share the blanket of his neighbour. These were spread on the floor, which was of coarse mortar, and more refreshing by its coolness than grateful for its downy qualities. On this hard couch we reposed for the night, and did not even dream of Marathon, nor of its glorious conqueror Miltiades. But we were sensibly cognizant of something much more annoying to us than were to the brave Greeks the Persian hosts who bit the dust on that day. These were a cetain class of visiters whose chief perambulations take place under cover of night, being animals whose species the huraan race are but too familiarly acquainted with, and who in this country, apparently depopulated though it be, have nev ertheless managed to acquire a size, whether owing to the exciting qtialities ofthe atmosphere or not, we cannot say, but certainly in proportions truly gigantic, and commen surate with the reputed colossal stature of the ancient Greeks themselves. The Greeks, however, we imagine, never could have reached their aUeged developments GREECE. 231 if they had been much exposed to this source of de pletion. In the course of this pugnacious night I was awoke by one of my companions, who, like Richard starting frora his dreamy couch on the field of Bosworth, ex claimed with horror, " Have the Persians landed V I found him erect upon his bed, waging the most vigorous war with the enemy. I coolly asked him what he ima gined to be the source of his difficulties. This ques- tiQn appeared only to exasperate him the more, and he abandoned himself to a most ferocious paroxysm of scratching, and replied most piteously that he " calcula ted" on being devoured alive before morning ; and that, inasmuch as he was imbued by the sacredness of the place with that heroic courage which would rather fall thankee frora danger, we would probably have the hon our of adding a Yankee skeleton to the thousands of inglorious Medes that had once strewed the plains of Marathon. In the morning his appearance was truly deplorable ; for he seemed to have been, for what rea son we cannot say, the chief object of assault Wound ed and bleeding, we aU arose, as may be imagined, at an early hour, having literally gone through the battle be fore we visited the battle-ground. After having refreshed ourselves with an apology for a breakfast, and raaking his honour the raayor, in the apartraent below, a liberal gratuity for the gratuitous services he had already rendered us with the eneray in advance, we mounted our steeds and commenced our journey on the plains, glad to j^ee from such scenes as we had passed through, even to those " dangers that we knew not of." The plain is many miles in extent, and one of the most beautiful that could be selected for the manoeuvring of a great army and the action of cavalry. 232 GREECE. The Persians, even though they may have been only 200,0.00 strong, and with raore than half that number of horse of the best Arab -blood, must, though they were so overwhelmingly numerous, have laboured under great disadvantages in landing on the beach, as they were the invading array. It was then, probably, that they were so severely cut up by the comparatively sraall band of only 10,000 heroic Greeks under Miltiades, who, no doubt, gave thera a hot reception. One could almost imagine, from the extreme fertil\J:y of this plain, covered with fields of luxuriant wheat, that the blood of the Persians stUI contributed to enrich its soil. The first object of interest that we visited was the extensive mound in the midst of the plain, where the Persian dead, it is conjectured, with great proba bility, together with their Ethiopian and other allies from all parts of Africa and Asia, were buried. I rode to the top, which has an elevation of about twenty feet, and, dismounting from my horse, searched about for some relics of bone, or armour, or warlike impleraent, ever so trivial ; but not a vestige was to be seen, not even one of those curious arrow-heads, supposed to have belonged to the Ethiopian or negro subsidies, and which, it is said, have been sometimes met with here. Upon dig ging, I found a piece of ancient pottery, or earthenware, peradventure a part of a cooking utensU, which had served camp duty, and furnished, perhaps, food to some proud Persian, who had come here to perish in a stran ger land. I contented myself with this and a flower as a souvenir of this memorable spot, not being enabled to procure what I most desired, even the smallest fragment of human bone. Tbe learned Dr. Clarke, of Oxford, is wrong. in saying, in his hasty tour, that any architectural fragments, as columns, or otherwise, are found on or G R E E C E. 233 about this tumulus. He unquestionably had reference to the mausoleum on the beach. As this battle-ground is in a raost sequestered part of Greece, and has scarcely been disturbed by the visits of human beings since the time it swarmed with the Per sian invaders, the tumulus which contained the dead has never probably been thoroughly exarained. Though 1 have no doubt, frora the dry, sandy nature of the soil, and the dryness of the atraosphere also, that raany bf the bones have been raore or less preserved, and could, with dihgent search, be procured ; which, with other rel ics of a mUitary character, might furnish materials that would contribute much, in the matter of costume and anatomy, to elucidate the recorded events in that bloody slaughter. The number of the enemy killed, by mod ern commentators has been reduced to the very sraall affair of some 6000 only, aU told, of Persian dead left on the field — the main array escaping to their boats — while only sorae hundreds of the Greeks fell in the battle. Our guide next conducted us some distance below, to the margin of the sea-beach, to view the spot where the Greeks were no doubt interred. Here we found a great number of beautiful marble columns, prostrate and broken, and part buried in the sand, in all directions, and which probably were the now ruined remains themselves of a mausoleum which had been erected to protect and point out the remains of the brave Greeks, and to com memorate the matchless victory they had won. It struck me as curious that the Greeks should erect the monu ment to their dead so near the edge ofthe sea; but an ex planation seemed to present itself in my mind, that it was intended thereby to express that the valour of their troops had pursued the enemy even into the sea itself; Gg 234 GREECE. while the tumulus of the Persians would show that they were made to succumb even after they had arrived to some distance within the Grecian territory. In fact, among the battie-pieces painted within the portico of the Pbecile at Athens, yet extant in the fourth century, that of Marathon represented the brave Athenians and their allies the Plataeans, &c., driving" and slaughtering the barbarians down to the edge of the beach and in the water, as they were making off in their boats for the fleet, which is seen close to the shore prepared to receive them. The hero Marathon, who gave his name to this spot, was also seen in this tableau. The protecting de ities, Theseus, Minerva, and Hercules, are also present At the head of the Athenians was seen the brave Mil tiades, and also the poet iEschylus, leading on some co horts. " Even the dogs bark at me," the Persians raight have exclaimed with Richard III. in our times, a dog being introduced into the painting barking at the barba rians : an ingenious device of the painter to express the contempt of the proud Athenians. It was under the Portico PoecUe that the thirty tyrants massacred 1400 Athenians ; and there also Zeno, the founder of the Stoics, fixed his school. — [Pittakys, loc. cit, p. 60, et sequ.] The locality of the Greek mausoleum might also have had some reference to the fact that the invasion of the enemy was by the sea ; and perhaps, also, the Greeks, as was usual with this maritirae people, were desirous of expressing thereby their renewed sense of gratitude to their favourite deity Neptune, who presided over this element We searched about in vain upon this plain for some plant, or bush, or tree, that could furnish a cane ; but met only with a stunted olive-tree near the Greek mau- GREECE. 235 soleum, from which one of my companions succeeded in obtaining a crooked fragment of a limb, that he never theless wiU no doubt ever attach great value to as a me mento of Marathon : " The battle-field, where Persia's victim horde First bow'd beneath the brant of Hellas' sword, As on the morn, to distant glory dear. When Marathon became a magic word. Which utter'd, to the hearer's eye appear The camp, the host, the fight, the conqueror's career — The flying Mede, his shaftless, broken bow. The fiery Greek, his red pursuing spear ; Mountains above, earth's, ocean's plain below. Death in the front, destruction in the rear ! Such was the scene ; what now remaineth here 'i What sacred trophy marks the hallow'd ground. Recording Freedom's smile and Asia's tear 1 The rifled urn, the violated mound. The dust thy courser's hoof, rude stranger, spurns around." Harold. As we had now gratified our curiosity with a visit to the raost celebrated ancient battle-ground in Greece, we took up our line of march by another route over the mountains, which, however, did not present any material difference in aspect from that by which we had come, excepting for a Greek monastery at the foot of one of the raountains, where we rested a while and obtained some refreshment of bread and honey, kindly presented to us by the raonks, and thence, after plucking sorae roses in the garden of the church, returned again to Athens. We now organized a raore extended caravan for a general tour through the interior of Greece. Our party consisted of ray corapanions to Marathon, with the ad dition of my friends Mr. and Mrs. Hill, together with an English gentieman, and- my own faithful servant, and several agoates, which latter, as we have before remark ed, are Greeks, and employed to conduct the baggage- 236 G R E E C B. horses, as well as to take charge of those upon which the traveUers are mounted. Our first visit was to Lessina, a small town on the coast, still bearing nearly the sarae narae as its predeces sor Eleusis, famous for its high antiquity and its myste ries of Ceres, celebrated in honbur of the goddess of husbandry, a city once so powerful that it contended with Athens for the sovereignty of Attica. On turning round a bold, projecting cliff on the edge ofthe bay, just before reaching the village, our attention was strongly drawn to the deep ruts in the rock, which were evi dently those of narrow carriages as used by the ancient Greeks. It is supposed to be the Via Sacra, where the holy cart of Ceres passed during the celebration of the mysteries. But how, with all their famed skill in chari oteering, even those who had won the prizes at the Olympic races could have safely navigated around, this dangerous pass, was a wonder to us aU, and might well be ranked among the Eleusinian mysteries. They were, however, gueatly skilled in the use and management of wheeled vehicles, and carriage riding was so coraraon in this place that even the woraen, during the celebration of the mysteries, were prohibited by royal edict from indulging in this luxury ; or, if they did, they paid dearly for it, at the rate of 6000 drachmas a drive^ The Eleusinian Mysteries, instituted in honour of Ceres and her grief at the loss of her daughter Proser pine, became the most celebrated in Greece, and finally the national religion and freemasonry blended. Thus there were degrees through which the candidates had to pass ; first, in the lesser mysteries at the town of Agrae, and then the higher at Eleusis; and aU who went through the processes of purification by bathing, and af terward initiation into the secrets of the imposing cere- GREECE. 237 monies of illumination, thunder, &c., performed by the priests at the great temple at Eleusis, were deemed cer tain of entering Elysium ; and he who dared to reveal the sacred rites was punished with death by the law of the state. What chiefly led to Ae condemnation and death of Socrates was his negltet of the Eleusinian mysteries. The Athenians were the most devout, and celebrated thera at Eleusis every five years. Hercules himself had to undergo the preliminary purification at Agrae before he could become a citizen of Athens and be initiated at Eleusis. The fete at Eleusis occupied nine days of rural ceremonies and processions. There is a charming view at this place of the bay and island of Salamis opposite, where was fought the great est naval fight of the Greeks, in resisting the attempted invasion of their country by Xerxes at this place. There is no raonument of importance remaining at Eleusis. AU that we saw of its former consequence were sorae broken fragraents of columns ; its magnificent tem ple to Ceres, built under Pericles by Ictinus, the archi tect of the Parthenon, having, with its mystic cell, which was as large as a theatre, been destroyed by Alaric the Goth. Dr. Clarke, the traveller, carried off the colossal statue of Ceres, which, in its- rautUated condition, now adorns the vestibule of the University Library at Cam bridge. The first evening after leaving Eleusis we had a taste of Marathon, having put up for the night in a stable, in company with our cavalry, they occupying the manger apartment and we the other ; the only difference in our accommodations being that they lay on terra firma and we on boards, brought in for the purpose by our ser vants, who had picked them up somewhere about the entrance. Near the stable was a small encampment of 238 GREECE. Bavarian soldiers, who, upon hearing that travellers had arrived in the kahn, as these stable-hotels are denomi nated, carae to pay us a visit of cereraony. On conversing with ray Gerraan servant, one of the party, who was the sifrgeon of the regiment, being in formed of my narae, wsked hira if I was the Dr. Mott from America. On being answered in the affirmative, he iraraediately entered our straw palace, and was ex ceedingly coraplaisant and polite to rae, and held an interesting conversation through my servant as inter preter, informing rae that he was farailiar, through the Gerraan works, with my name, and with raany things that I had done in surgery. He expressed his perfect astonishment to see me here, and earnestly entreated me to accept of his tent for the night, which I had great difficulty in declining, not wishing to dispossess him nor to desert my friends. I cannot but confess that it Was no little gratification to me to find myself recognised in this sequestered part of Greece. We continued through a rugged, mountainous coun try, generally as bare, of trees as of inhabitants, until we came to Mount Cithaeron, after crossing which we de scended to the celebrated plain of Plataea. A few ham lets only, and some .portions of ancient wall, are all that are to be seen of this spot, so renowned for the splen did and unprecedented victory here obtained by the com bined armies of Greece, under the Spartan general Pau sanias, over 300,000 Persians and Asiatics, commanded by their general Mardonius. The repubUc of Plataea se ceded from their jealous neighbour Thebes, and adhered to Athens, which circumstance incurred the vengeance of the Spartans also, during the Peloponnesian war. The Spartans, after meeting with a heroic resistance, stormed the town, put every inhabitant to the sword, GREECE. 239 and razed the buUdings to the ground. Early in its history Plataea had participated largely in the glories of Marathon, having contributed a thousand troops to the Greek force. There is the .site of another ancient town in the same place much in the same state as the former. This is the ancient Leuctra, celebrated for the briUiant victory of Epaminondas, the Theban general, gained .over Cle- ombrotus, king of Sparta, 371 B.C., in which the Spar tan king and 4000 of his troops were slain, and only 300 Thebans. This battie terrainated the long reign of the Spartans over Greece. The cavalry of the The bans were raanaged with great efficiency. Sorae torabs, a conical fortress, and iraraense blocks of raarble are aU that remain of the ruins of this once celebrated town. We rambled over the sites of these ancient cities and their battle-grounds, but could find no vestige of the terrible carnage that took place, though it is alleged that 250,0€0 Asiatics were kiUed in the battle of Plataea. In iUustration of what we suggested at Marathon, of the importance of a more minute examination of these mem orable places, that the barbaric conquerors of this land, from their contempt of its ancient glories and heroes, have for so many ages left intact and undisturbed, both the brave dead and the monumental ruins in which they lie sepulchred — we may mention that on the road from Plataea to Thebes there was recently dug up a colossal statue in granite, supposed to be that of Philip of Mace don, large portions of which we saw, and a fragment of which we procured as an historic specimen. After having left the plain of Plataea, we proceeded through a tract of country of the same level formation, and arrived the next night at the celebrated city of Thebes, now a cluster of low huts, occupied by poor, 240 GREECE. distressed-looking Greeks, some of them smaU shopkeep ers, who traffic and peddle in the produce of the surround ing country. In the market-places in the interior towns we frequently noticed the butter from goat's milk. It is contained in the skin of a goat, sewed up so as to re semble the living animal, with its head and feet attached. From this the butter is dug out for sale. We could not possibly realize to ourselves that this truly wretched and melancholy picture was the site of the once proud cap ital of the valorous Thebans. In rambling about the dirty lanes and passes, and encountering the stiU more squalid and poverty-stricken inhabitants, we could not but reflect what Greece was and now is — how fallen from her proud estate ! But we had before already seen enough of this country to have brought home to us with painful conviction the truth, that if ever there was a peo ple, who from the topmost pinnacle of human greatness had been swept almost from the face of the earth, leav ing no traces of their " whereabout" but the superb ruins, whose exquisite chiselling and proportions, pure as their own whiteness, are the raelancholy and chaste raemorials of a refined cultivation, that people was the tyihappy Greeks. But may we not hope, that the day is not distant when the dawn of a new greatness shaU break upon the horizon, and this truly afflicted land shall rise renovated from the midst of her moulder ing and beautiful ruins 1 It was a favourite allegory of the Greek poets of those halcyon days, that as the imago, or perfect butterfly, in aU its brilliant glories, bursts from the chrysalis invest ments in which it had been slumbering, so does the soul at death sever itself from its mortal searments and cum brous prison-house of clay, to bathe in the sunbeams of eternal bliss. And may we not hope that such may be GREECE. 241 the destiny of tiiis persecuted people 1 For when we contemplate, as at Athens, the magnificent grandeur of her monuments, which have stiU survived the shock of the ruthless invader and the corroding waste of time, the tear, in every one who feels for her as he should, un consciously starts at the tiiought of what she once has been, and tiie abject degradation to which she is now reduced. " Quis fando temperot a lachrymis." " Clime of the unforgotten brave, Whose land, from plain to mountain cave. Was freedom's homo or glory's grave ! Shrine of the n\ighty ! can it be That this is all remains of thee !" " Cold is the heart, fair Greece ! that looks on thee, Nor feels as lovers o'er tho dust lliey loved ; Dull is the eye that will not weep to see Thy walls defaced, thy mouldering shrines removed." {See Giaour and Harold.) There was not a ruin of any description in or about tiie site, of modern Thebes. A little distant from it we visited a small Christian church, iu which was a large stone sarcophagus, held in great veneration, said and believed by tiie Thebans to have contained the mortal remains of the apostle St. Luke, though this asseveration, we apprehend, is to be taken cufii grano salis. Our party for the night A\as received into one of tJie best mansions of the city, which consisted only of au empty room or two, witii not a bed, chair, or table to be found. But it had a wooden floor, which was tiie only lu-xury it did possess. The commanding Bavarian officer of this post being informed bv my exceUent friend Mr. HiU who our party were, came to me in person, and, through my servant, urged that I would accept of his own mattress, which I politely declined, as it was rob- Hh 242 GREECE. bing him of the only one he had, and was certainly more important to the comfort of a public militarj^ officer, ex posed to the privations and hard duty they aU have to perforra in this country, than it was to rae, a civihan, rambling for my pleasure, and preferring, as I made it a point to do on aU occasions, to take common fare with my companions. But, to my surprise, before bedtime his servant came in with the mattress on his back, which I then felt myself bound to accept ; not a little admon ished, too, by our fate at Marathon, which constantly at nightfall recurred to our recollection. On this I reposed, wrapped in my blanket, by the side of my companions. The next morning my kind military friend sent us the acceptable present of a beautiful lamb, which we caused to be slaughtered, and handed to our servants to be packed upon our baggage-horses as a gastronomic treat, or corps de reserve, in the event of our ruder prov ender faUing short No one can scarcely appreciate, but those placed under similar circurastances with our selves, how opportune and grateful such acts of substan tial courtesy are. Before leaving Thebes in the course of the following day, at the earnest request of the coraraanding officer, who related to us the dangerous region we were about to pass through, we accepted from him a military guard. He told us of a horrid murder which had been commit ted on the route we were to take, upon a traveller the day before our arrival at Thebes. That, after hav ing murdered and robbed him, the assassins skinned his face to prevent recognition : a surgical operation which we by no means coveted to have performed upon our selves, and a piece of intelligence that was not a little calculated to take off the keen edge of our desire to make any farther explorations into Greece. GREECE. 243 It is a curious fact that the raodern Greeks should perhaps have derived this refinement of cruelty from a practice in sorae of their ancient sacrifices of preserving the skin of the human victim. Thus, in the course of initiation into the higher degrees and purifications of the Eleusinian mysteries, it was the usage to stand on what was caUed Jupiter's skin, which was the skin of a hu man victim that had been sacrificed to this god. Our learned friend Mr. Pittakys, in his profound work on the antiquities of the Athenians, maintains, as we think with truth, that the raodern Greeks are in all respects the lineal and legitimate descendants of that great peo ple, from whom they have, in most respects, so much degenerated. To confirm the truth of the story, we were regaled, in the course of our first day's journey from this place, with the spectacle of the three assassins of the unfortu nate traveUer. They were confined in irons, and on their way with a guard to Thebes, having been captu red the day before. We stopped a few minutes to take a look at these poor, wretched creatures, who were in the most forlorn condition imaginable, being nearly na ked, with the exception of a few tattered rags upon them, as if they had been driven to the atrocious crime by a state of utter destitution, if not starvation, and our hearts again sickened at the sight, and at the thought that such misery should exist in this country as to force human beings like ourselves to a life of frightful desperation and depravity. Amid the dreary sohtudes of the barren mountain ranges that everywhere traverse this country, and the scenes of havoc, and ruin, and misery we every where encountered, we were often refreshed, as at pres ent, with the extreme fertiUty and remarkable beauty of raany extended plains and valleys, that contrasted pleas- 244 GREECE. ingly with the general aspect of sterility ; and in no country have I ever seen any region raore luxuriant and picturesque in its verdure and strearas, though generally unshaded by trees, than the Theban vaUey and plain where we were now travelling. And Eleusis, though the appropriate horae of Ceres and her floral train, must have rauch changed from what it may once have been, to have raerited, as richly as this Theban region does, the appellation of Rarius Campius. We met in this delightful valley occasional groups of itinerants of a pastoral character, who reminded us strongly of the gipsies of England, though, in reality,- a far more honest race, showing that, though the worst of bandits do exist in Greece, crime is not always the accorapaniment of poverty. These people are not, like the Enghsh gipsies, devoted to a life of theft and beg gary on the roadside, but resemble them only in their Bedouin habits, camping out in the fields, but wander ing from place to place solely for the purpose of being hired in husbandry by such farraers as need their ser vices ; in this respect not differing materially from the habits of some of our enterprising eastern neighbours. They travel with a great number of horses, which were certainly of a superior breed to any I saw in the coun try, and which enables thera to engage raore advan tageously in the labours in which they are employed. They were decently clad, and looked like the modern Greeks ; and, if I were to judge frora the general ar rangement of their encampraents, they were superior in every respect, and seemed to have more comforts about them than the European gipsies. They are supposed to be a race of foreign extraction, and consider them selves, like the Ishmaelites or Bedouins, not amenable GREECE. 245 to law, but, for the tirae being, to be raasters of any spot where they choose teraporarily to pitch their tents. Protected by our Bavarian escort, we coursed along the valley, and arrived at the foot of the famous Mount Helicon, and that night reached the city of Livadea (the ancient Lebadea), now the capital of Bceotia. This town is the most considerable, and contains the most comfortable dwellings of any we met with in the inte rior of Greece, counting some thousands of inhabitants, with some appearances of modern European articles of merchandise, and more activity and look of business even than Athens itself We were, however, here again inducted into a kahn, the only public accommodations for travellers in the interior of this country. Its arrange ments were of a much more elevated character than our lodgings near Eleusis, as we occupied the attic loft over the horses, and found here a fireplace, where our ser vants prepared us a comfortable dish of tea a I'Ameri- caine, which we took sitting on the floor d la Turque, as there was no furniture, and our beds were, as usual, our blankets stretched upon the hard plank. But I had no sooner made my sleeping arrangements for the night, than I received a visit from a highly-respectable Greek of the town, evidently one of the gentry of the place, accompanied by Mr. HUl, M'ho had known him in Athens. At the pressing solicitations of both, and the particular desire of my companions that I should be more comfortably lodged than themselves, though hav ing no other claim of preference than that of seniority, I reluctantly assented to accorapany the hospitable Greek to his residence. There I found, in truth, more real comfort, as we understand the word, than I had seen since leaving Athens. We soon sat down to a truly sumptuous supper, consisting entirely of mutton. 246 GREECE. dish after dish of which was brought on, each differently prepared, and running through the entire gamut of the animal, not excluding in the catalogue even the intes tines ; the skin and wool only excepted. I partook of each plate with an excellent relish, which acquired a keener zest from the Greek wine with which the repast ' was accompanied, notwithstanding the latter had, as all the wines of Greece have, a strong terebinthinate fla vour, from the universal practice of impregnating this liquor with branches of fir or knots of pine, in order, probably, to give it an aperient quality. This flavour, however, under any other circumstances than to the strong appetite of a traveUer, would have probably been repugnant to our taste ; but in the classic land of Greece anything must be palatable. After supper they disposed of me for the night upon a comfortable couch, where, however, from having by this time got soraewhat accustoraed to harder usage, ray slumbers were less refreshing than usual. The next morning we arose betimes, and, accompanied by our host, proceeded to visit the most interesting objects about the town. The first was the precipice of Mount Heli con. We had not time to visit on Mount Helicon the grove of the Muses upon its summit, nor the fountain of Aganippe and its source Hippocrene, whence the wa ter issued when kicked by the winged horse Pegasus. The mountain rises close to the town, and almost over hangs it In its steepest part, near the base, is excava ted, we should judge by artificial means, a large grotto or cavern, which is the famous cave, of Trophonius. The cave is called Trophonius from Jupiter Trophonius (reputed son of Jupiter), a deified personage, who built the temple of ApoUo at Delphi, being supposed, after his death, to deliver his oracles here ; and it was to this GREECE. 247 place the Boeotians resorted for reUef in times of great drought, when they were conducted by the priests into an inner passage, descending from the cavern, and thence, after going tiirough certain ceremonies, ihey were brought out ; and such as had submitted to this process were said never to si/iiie again, which has been tiie theme of many an idle story in ancient writers. Trophonius is generally supposed to have been an ' art ful dodger," and his worshippers, as iu similar eases, are said to have made use of these grottoes to dupe the people, and fleece them of tiieir money in tiie shape of costly presents. Cra'siis, who consulted this oracle, must have been a fat prize ; but Mardonius, the Persian general, who also appealed to it, must have come away with a much longer visat;e than most visiters, as the in formation he procured, and, probably, dearly paid for, did uot a\ ert the dreadful carnage which befell his East ern hordes on the plains of Plataja. Epaminondas also visited it before the battle of Leuctia, and, by an artifice, procured a favourable prediction. Paulas ^Emilius also repaired to it to return thanks after his victory over Per seus. On each side of the grotto or cave we observed niches, which arc supposed to have contained statues dedicated to Esculapius and Hygeia, and smaller ones for tiie votive offerings which it is believed were brought hitiier to propitiate those deities. The two fountains which issued from out of the rock were supposed to pos sess sanatory properties for the relief of the sick, by whom they were frequented. There is sometiiing peculiarly fitted in the nature of the high and fearful preeipices of Hehcon to e.xcite sol emn impressions, which must have been weU calculated to enforce the mummery and practices of priestcraft, and 248 GREECE. which probably were quite as efficacious by their moral influence on the superstitious belief of those days, as any physical qualities that the water possessed. The two fountains mentioned issue frora opposite sides of the cave, and, though not fifty yards apart, are of raarked difference of teraperature, the one cold, the other warra. They blend their waters into one reser voir or basin. They are the celebrated springs of Mem ory and Forgetfulness, in each of which we bathed and drank. After supplying the basin, they form together a rapid stream, which is believed to be the ancient Hir- sina. This passes through the town, and in its course turns several smaU miUs, and then erapties itself into a smaU lake a few railes distant. Many young women were washing at the streara, and, though nearly " in nudis naturalibus," seemed quite unabashed at our presence. WhUe standing at the cave of Trophonius we heard a rumbling noise, which is thought to be a subterranean stream passing under Mount Helicon, and the probable source of the fountains. It was, no doubt, in the hands of the officiating priests, a very important element in operating upon the credulity of such as visited this place for the purposes of health or oracular revelations. Helicon is the second highest mountain in Greece, next to the faraed Parnassus, which stood now in bolder relief before us, having been constantly in our view, with its snow-covered summit, from the time we crossed Mount Cithaeron. We, indeed, travel in no part of Greece where we do not find ourselves in the raidst of ranges of mountains, whose bald and dismal aspect, how ever, is as constantly and agreeably relieved by green and refreshing valleys. A short distance from Lebadaea we saw on the plain the ruins of the famous Chaeronea, no less renowned as GREECE. 249 the birthplace of the admirable Plutarch than as the bat tle-ground where the Athenians were defeated by the Boeotians, 447 B.C., and which led to their final subju gation to the yoke of PhiUp of Macedon, 338 B.C. Here, also, 86 .B.C., there was a fierce and bloody con flict between the Romans under Sylla, and the Persian king Mithradates the Great. Our servants having roasted our lamb whole, we now again resumed our journey along the vale of Thebes, and reached, a little before night, the town of Daulis, which is situated on a steep declivity of Mount Parnas sus, near the plain. At a distance it reminded us of the appearance of swallows' nests on the side of a naked bank, the part of the mountain where it is situated being entirely destitute of trees. When inforraed that we should probably rest there for the night, the prospect of being perched upon such a high erainence seeraed truly terrific. We found, however, on arriving, that it was much less precipitous than we had imagined it to be at a distance ; our wearied limbs, that so much needed re pose, appealing in eloquent arguments, that sensibly di minished the force of our exaggerated apprehensions; and as sinks to sleep, spite of even " The rude, imperious surge. The seaboy on the high and giddy mast," so we, having drank of the waters of oblivion, and being thoroughly " fagged out," forgot Hehcon and its groves, Apollo and the Muses, and double-headed Parnassus and its Castahan fount of inspiration, and were soon dis posed to abandon ourselves to peaceful slurabers. Our reception at Daulis, however, which we had reached before sunset, merits a passing remark. It was highly gratifying, and, in fact, marked with distinguished honours, showing how wrong it was to aUow our preju- Ii 250 GREECE. dices to be influenced by appearances, as the forbidding aspect of this httle village was such as would have pre cluded the most remote thought that there was any good in store for us here ; reminding us of the sound advice of Sterne, that even on Araby's desert a traveller may turn his philosophy and accommodating spirit to advan tageous results, and verifying the still more forcible lines of the imraortal bard of Avon, that, go where we raay in this world, there are *' Tongues in trees, sermons in stones. Books in running brooks, and good in everything." Classical fable, also, could have come to our rehef to mitigate the repulsive aspect of this humble little town, perched on the mountain height; for here it was that is said to have been enacted the mournful tragedy that befeU the beautiful Philomela, daughter of Pandion, king of Athens. Tereus, king of Thrace, who had married her sister Procne, became enamoured of Philomela, and conducting her, with permission of Pandion, to Thrace, went off from the direct track on pretence of taking her to see her sister, and attempted to violate her on their arrival at Daulis. Procne revenged the outrage upon her sister by killing her son Itys by Tereus, and serving his flesh to the latter for food. Philomela was afterward changed to a swallow, Procne to a nightingale, and Te reus to a hoopoo. And, sure enough, as if beautifully to realize to us the impressive and subhme moral of this fable, we heard here, for the first time in Greece, the sweet and plaintive notes of the nightingale, singing her farewell vespers in the evening twilight, as we were wending our way up to the viUage. Already, before we alighted from our horses, we found ourselves, to our surprise, surrounded by the Demarch of the town and his councU, by whom we were made cap- GREECE. 251 tives ; for, having learned by some one from Lebadaea that we were en route to this place, a public council was immediately held to devise means for our reception and accommodation. They had just been in session in the open air, as was ever the ancient usage in Greece in pubhc assemblies, and were about adjourning when we arrived. A warm altercation ensued who should have the privilege of entertaining us. The Demarch or mayor finally prevailed by the force of his baton, and took possession of the prisoners. We counselled to gether for a few minutes, and deemed it due to the high est dignitary whom we had yet made any acquaintance with on Parnassus, to accept of the shield of his pro tection, in the absence of Bacchus, the legitimate divin ity of this region, who probably had gone on a visit to Apollo and the Muses on Helicon. The absence ofthe God of Grapes was a serious inconvenience, which was soon after made feelingly manifest to us, as it appeared that he had carried off aU the wine of the mountain with him, not even a drop being left in the vaults of the De- march. Not only the wine-vaults, however, but the larders also, apparentiy, had been ravaged and robbed by this carousing roue to regale his favourite dames ; for the demarch and his council had nothing whatever with which to satisfy our hunger or thirst, but an ap pearance of cordial welcome ; a meager repast in lieu of something more substantial required by the wearied traveller. Fortunately, we had provided against every accident, and fell back upon the reserved rights of our own stores, of which the principal was the roast lamb of our Theban friend, the Bavarian officer. If rosy-cheeked beauty and woman's sweet smiles could have allayed the cravings of hunger, the more substantial provender which we had in our own panniers 252 GREECE. would have been quite superfluous ; for not only by the dignitaries of Daulis were we most honourably received, but all the fairer portion of the creation, and, in truth, the whole population, of every age and both sexes, had turned out to greet us, at our entrance into this town, with a kind and courteous welcome. They all seemed dressed for the occasion; the men in the red fez cap with a large tassel, embroidered vest and sash, and loose Greek fonstinella or petticoat to the knees, and the mar ried women with their head and face (save one pretty Greek eye) enveloped in a shawl. But the most agree able and curious of the group were the young girls, who, as is the usage here, wore a head-dress ornamented with coins, which is their dowry ; some having but three or four pieces, others more richly loaded down with them. Their long hair was braided and tied with ribands, which hung down to the feet A lover of the female form could have found here plenty of exquisite Greek models for his contemplation in the open air ; for, be sides the head-dress, they were almost literally naked, from the bust to the lower barefooted extremities. Here a great number of sick of all ages, some of them with frightful diseases, had been mustered together to await my arrival, and were brought to me that I might give them advice, which I endeavoured to do to the best of my ability, though time and circumstances, unfortunately, did not allow me the opportunity of oper ating upon some surgical cases of a grave character, which I would have gladly wished to reUeve. We must do the mayor justice by stating that we were accomraodated with nights' lodgings upon his floor, which, however, was preferable to a hayloft or the open air. It took us some time, however, as may reasonably be supposed, to recover from what we considered an act GREECE. 253 of great discourtesy on the part of Bacchus to shuffle off the honours of our reception upon the demarch; and we should have preferred that tho jolly protector of this vast mountain had deferred his flirtation upon Helicon to another occasion. The next day was lovely and brilliant, beyond even tiie usual ti'ansparency of Grecian skies. Glorious Par nassus was gracefully disclosing his snow-capped, tow ering summits, from the clouds of white mist in which he had been veUed during the night, and of which he \\as now disrobing himself, to greet the golden beams of tiie morning sun. We moved cautiously along the narrow, fearful ledge, scarcely thinking of our danger iu tho contemplation of the beauties before us. As ac cessories to tiie subUme scenery, wo saw, as we looked across a deep and dark ravine, which the morning ravs had not yet penetrated, tiie venerable monastery of St Luke, which, with tiie same characteristic taste as that which overlooks the field of Maratiion, was most ro- nianticallv situated on a projecting ledge of rocks. The monks seem to havo always had an eye to tiie pictu resque in selecting the site of their religious edifices, as ^\e constantly remarked everywhere in Greece. Thev contrast strikingly with the total want of taste exempli fied in the location of the modern Greek towns. In tiie situations chosen for the monasteries could we alone recognise that there was a class of Greeks through whom tiie inborn classic perception of beauty, which was the dominant trait of the inteUect of this ancient people, had been perpetuated by legitimate hereditaiy descent. It was the wish of some of the party to have pushed on to this monastery tiie night previous, as we should have there been certain of finding comforts for tiie " in ner mau," well knowing tiiat these temporal considera- 254 GREECE. tions are not overlooked by the spiritual proprietors; but, seeing the great preparations which had been made for our reception at Daulis, we had concluded to remain there. We continued our ascent up the raountain by narrow zigzag horse-paths, often precipitous and dangerous, and corapelling us to disraount and have our horses led, until at last we reached a considerable table-land, or plateau, a little distance below the line of perpetual snow. Upon this plateau is situated the famous Cas- TALiAN spring. It is directly at the foot ofthe snow of the highest sumrait of Parnassus. Before we reached the spring we came to a considerable streara of running water, on a pebbly bottom, and, following this up, we soon arrived at its source, the superb Castalian Fount ain. The moment we saw it we could not wonder that the ancients had been enraptured with its beauty. It is of a semicircular shape, of several feet in diameter, and boils out from the rock, not in bubbles, but in large, ex panded globular volumes of the purest limpid water, ex ceeding in size and in furious activity anything of the kind I ever beheld. One could almost imagine that the spring itself was convulsed with poetic phrensy. Who, then, that drank of it could fail to imbibe sorae of its in spiration 1 We ourselves having beheld this wonder, the theme of so much eulogy, could readily conceive how the refined taste of the Greek poets should have con curred with unanimous consent in giving to its fount ain a pre-eminence over all others known ; and that if there was any drink short of the nectar of the gods that could clarify the intellect and enrich it with "Thoughts that breathe and words that burn," it must be this bubbling crystal fluid distiUed from the GREECE. 255 dewdrops of eternal snows. We should apprehend that ApoUo and the Muses must have frequently forsaken their ambrosial groves on Helicon to visit the god of Parnas sus, were it only for the pleasure of gazing upon and tasting of this dehcious fountain, dedicated to their spe cial uses. We, in common with all mortals, felt the ne cessity of partaking of this classic beverage ; not with any expectation, however, that it would rouse into ex istence dormant poetical emotions, or even endow us with the prophetic insight into futurity, one of its sup posed virtues. We accordingly dismounted, and each stooped down and drank, and bathed our hands in it at its source. Though it was early in the month of May, the forget-me-nots, even at this high elevation, were in full bloom around the spring, some of which we gather ed and preserved as beautiful and delicate mementoes of this revered place. It may be considered to have been a most unpoetical act of mine to have not only had my attention drawn to, but also to have actually gathered, and even gone through the grosser process of eating, some handfuls of the luxuriant water-cresses that grow in rank profusion in the bed of the stream as it issues from Castalia, and which were the largest speci mens of the plant I have ever seen. Perhaps, however, we ought not too much to lower the character of this humble cruciform, as its pungent qualities may have not a little contributed to give a spicy flavour to the poetry- inspiring virtues of the fountain itself. Lord Byron's denunciation of its unfitness to be tasted of by a lady to the contrary notwithstanding. * Before our departure I selected from the bottom of the fountain a beautiful rounded and water-worn peb ble as a more enduring souvenir of this classic spot 256 GREECE. We saw nothing either of the old fig-tree or clustering vines of ivy which some travellers speak of. We mounted again, and proceeded to the foot of the other or lower summit of Parnassus. Here we alighted again, leaving our horses in charge of our servants, and with a guide commenced our ascent in search of the CoRYCEAN Cave. And here it was that our fair com panion and countrywoman, Mrs. Hill, and who had du ring the whole route from Athens shown herself one of the best horsemen and travellers of the party, evinced a spirit and intrepidity worthy of the land of her birth. She, in the true character of her sex, nothing daunted, was one of the foremost in the van in clambering the steep rocks and forcing her way through the almost im penetrable thickets, holding on to the stunted firs and brushwood to aid her in her difficult progi'ess. With such a leader, who would flinch ? But I regret to con fess that, from the peculiar nature of my late indisposi tion, I was compelled to be the first to falter, deeming it most prudent, if not imperatively my duty, to stop half way up the mountain. The rest succeeded in gain ing the summit, and were much gratified with the pros pect when they reached there, and also with the e^m- ination of the cave ; the entrance to which, however, was so small that it was extremely difficult to find. Mrs. Hill was so fortunate as to discover and enter it The rest foUowed, except one, who unfortunately lost his way and missed the object of his visit They de scribed the cave as one of spacious dimensions, much incrusted in its' roof with the drapery of stalactites, in dicating the calcareous character ofthe mountain, which is the prevalent formation in Greece, and the source of its beautiful raarble. Within the recesses of this cavern, the first charaber of which is 330 feet long by 200 wide, GREECE. 257 the inhabitants of Delphi, on the other side of the mountain, are said to have secreted themselves on the approach of the Persians; and here, also, the Corycean nymphs, sacred to this mountain, together with their protege and pet, the ugly Pan, at their head, with the drunken Silenus, worthy tutor of Bacchus, held their merry revels, and, though in the train of the ethereal Muses, indulged, no doubt, in potations somewhat stron ger, we presume, from concurrent testimony, than the Castalian dews. From this we journeyed on through a wild mountain path, and, after descending some 6000 feet through pre cipitous and fearful passes, arrived at nightfall at the site of the renowned Delphi, at the foot of the other side of the sumrait which we have just described, and look ing towards the Gulf of Lepanto or Corinth. Our reception, though not so dignified as at Daulis, on the other side of Parnassus, was infinitely raore en thusiastic. Cerberus, to all appearance, had unkennelled his entire pack in the service of ApoUo, and our ears ring to this day with the discordant rausic of the yelhng raultitude of the canine species who announced our ar rival to the natives, which latter were not slow in an swering the call and making their appearance. We never saw a more savage-looking race of animals than the shaggy wolf-dogs, who had just returned from their flocks on the raountains, and annoyed, no doubt, by our interruption of their first siesta, had corae out to express their dissatisfaction in the canine symphonies with which they regaled our entre into the viUage. This once princely city, on a part of the site of which is the modern vUlage of Castri, presents the same mourn ful spectacle of so many other renowned ancient places in this unhappy land. It consists only of a few miser- Kk 258 GREECE. able huts, along a very steep declivity of Parnassus, at the foot of the Hyampeia, a vast precipice, whence crirainals were hurled in former days. A frightful ob ject in truth it is ; and on its topmost edge we observed, as was pointed out to us by the townspeople, that it ac tually had a smooth, worn appearance, as though it had done its dreadful office terrifically. At the foot of the perpendicular precipice we have described, is a mean-looking, shallow cavern or grotto in the rock, which is supposed to have been the resi dence of the Pythian goddess, or oracle of Delphi. Yet here the iraraortal Byron, credulous only in what related to those divine poetic creations with which his own soul was irabued, and therein credulous to the wildest degree of extravagance, thought, or pretended to think, that the story of the Delphic oracle was sufficiently vera cious to authorize hira to carve in this place his own initials upon the rock, to endorse the truth and sanctity of the spot. Besides the mean tenements of the vUlage, there is a smaU teraple of Christian worship adjacent, and on the other side of the town a raonastery, which in size is the raost considerable structure of the kind that we had seen. This, with the exception of the Stadium, was aU there was of what once was Delphi. Who could have believed that this desolate, crownest-like cluster of huts on a shelving ledge of Parnassus, could, in the possible mutability of human events, have been that proud Mec ca of the Greeks, that once was adorned with the mag nificent temple to ApoUo ? That here the mightiest po tentates of the earth went in pilgrimages to visit and to do horaage to, or to obtain favours frora, the shrine of the far-famed Pythian oracle ? What stretch of ima gination could realize the fact, that within the sacred GREECE. 259 temple there was accumulated enormous and incredible masses of wealth, the product of votive offerings to pro pitiate favourable responses from the mysterious being, the Pythian goddess, who on her tripod was supposed to hold in her hand the destinies of the world 1 Can it be possible, I exclaimed, on entering the cavern of the rock, the residence of Pythia herself, that I should find it profaned to the debased condition of a night abode for a cow and three or four goats 1 And yet such was the humiliating fact. As I stood on the same earth where the proud conqueror Alexander kneeled in humble devotion, and where Gyges and Midas in the fabulous ages, and where afterward the rich Croesus, came to lay down their hoarded millions of gold, was my poetic enthusiasm wounded at the thought of the sacrilege I beheld. Indignant were my feelings at this moment, to find myself compelled, with the aid of the cane my friend the Demarch had presented to me, to devote it to the purifying and retributive duty of expel ling the vile quadrupeds frora this holy recess. Yet not so vile, perhaps, as would at first seem, when we reflect that the grave and reverend council of Amphic- tyons, who represented the cities of Greece, and guarded the Pythia and her mummeries, never proceeded to their solemn deliberations, in other words, to the division of the spoils, we suppose, until they had sacrificed an ox to the goddess, and, peradventure, our poor cow may have been a lineal descendant of some of these animals. To which add, that the humble goat himself becomes enhanced in reputation when it is recoUected that this immortal and miraculous cavern itself, leading, as is sup posed, directly to the centre of the earth, is declared to have been first discovered to raortals by a goatherd, who 260 GREECE. observed his flock snuffing up the inspired air from one of the crevices in the cavern. I confess, however, that the scene before me did away with all the poesy of Greece and the charms of Pythian incantations. The mystic speU was suddenly broken, and I forgot for a moraent Apollo, the temple, Pythia, the tripod, Alexander, Midas, and Croesus, and aU other notables, and found it indispensably necessary to take heed to my steps ; as, whatever those gentry may have once thought of the place, I deemed myself at present in a very mauvaise and ticklish position. Badinage aside, it certainly requires infinitely more credulity than we can command to believe a hundredth of what is written of the wonders, and miracles, and riches of Delphi. We are therefore compelled to say, judging frora the position, topography, and character of the place, and the surrounding and almost inaccessible mountain precipices, that most, if not all, of what has been written and reiterated of the superhuman grandeur of Delphi, is sheer and positive fabrication and fable. And we have no doubt that the Greek magi of those days artfully, wisely, and purposely selected this most dangerous and difficult recess in the steep side of Mount Parnassus, as a spot peculiarly fitted to conceal their oracular mummeries and hoarded plunder, and to cloak the representations that they gave out to the world of its supernatural character, and its unparajleled wealth and magnificence ; being very sure that there were very few persons who would take the pains or run the risk of clambering up there to refute their declarations. And we furthermore very much doubt, whether any of those who were dupes enough to go and deposite their jewels and ingots there, ever had the candour to acknowledge and confess their shame at the shocking disappointment GREECE. 26] they must have met with, both in the duplicity of the oracular interpretations and in the heavy exactions that they cost The rule of the world was probably then as it is now, that when a seeker of wonders and curiosities has been made a fool of, he quietly and wisely keeps it to himself, in order that others may get it in the same measure ; for it is an old adage, that misery loves cora- pany, and that one fool makes many. We are aware that this is reducing Delphi to a very low estate, for humble persons like ourselves to venture to overshadow those glories and dira those bearas that have for ages shone around the fabulous immortality of this place with such resplendent lustre. But we must speak our minds with sincerity. Possibly, we may ex aggerate, and may not have seen things with the sarae Castalian lucidness of vision, that they were viewed by the eyes of other travellers. Sorae allowance, too, ought, perhaps, to be made for our feelings at the tirae, having been so egregiously disappointed and neglected by the MuSes of Helicon, Pan, Silenus, and their companion Bacchus of Parnassus, as the dry reception we met with at the house of the Demarch of Daulis too plainly proved. But who, to return to the subject of Delphi, can in his senses believe, that either the Phocians robbed it at one stroke of ten millions of dollars ; that Nero, with tyrant grasp, carried off, in one assault upon the temple, no less than 500 bronze or brass statues to Rome ; or, to go back into the misty ages of its earliest origin, that the god ApoUo, however rauch he may have admired and respected the majestic Parnassus, could have gone to the laborious task, which must certainly have required the aid of his friend Hercules, to drag the crocodile monster serpent Python out of the mud of the distant 262 GREECE. NUe, up to this high point of rocks in Greece, to have the pleasure of slaying him at the cave of Delphi ? We visited the supposed site of the temple of Apollo, but " not a rack remains behind." Into whatever archi tectural forms, and mouldings, and cornices, the excited fancies of enthusiastic traveUers may have shaped the rude and broken fragments of rock about Delphi, we, for our parts, could see not a vestige of the reality of this temple, nor do we in candour believe it ever existed. The raonks at the monastery, pointed out one column araong several, all of which, probably, were of modern origin, but which we were assured was a veritable and genuine fragment of the teraple of Apollo. On this, as having two ofthe sons of Esculapius, myself included, in our party, we, with much becoming solemnity, inscribed our names, in juxtaposition to those of Byron, Hobhouse, and others, in honour of the great god ApoUo, the father ofthe God of Medicine, and himself the protector and founder of the healing art. It was here that Byron wrote those lines : " Oh thou, Parnassus ! whom I now survey. Not in the phrensy of a dreamer's eye. Not in the fabled landscape of a lay, But soaring, snow-clad, through thy native sky, In the wild pomp of native majesty. Oft have I dream'd of thee, whose glorious name Who knows not, knows not man's divinest lore ; And now I view thee, 'tis, alas, with shame, That I in feeblest accents must adore. When I recount thy worshippers of yore, I tremble, and can only bend the knee. Nor raise my voice, nor vainly dare to soar ; But gaze beneath thy cloudy canopy, • In silent joy to think at last I look on thee ! Though here no more Apollo haunts his grot, And though the Muses' seat ait now Iheii grave, Some gentle spirit still pervades the spot. Sighs in the gale, keeps silence in the cave. And glides with glassy foot o'er yon melodious wave." HaroU. GREECE. 263 A little to the east of the Pythian cavern is the vast and profound fissure in the rock, or antrum, as it is called, the dark vapour from which the priestess in haled before she delivered her oracles. This leads up to the precipice called Hyampeia, which we have already described. We entered the fissure ahd ascended to the foot of the precipice. On the right, at the entrance, is a small rivulet issuing from the huge, masssive rock. It is as clear, limpid, and cool almost as the Castalian fountain, which is believed to be its parent source. It falls into a small reservoir, considered to have been the bath of the Pythian goddess, and looks quite antiquated enough for that purpose. Here, also, we drank and bathed, lest we might be considered hardened skeptics. From the spot where the bath is, we passed along a natural mural precipice, and there saw something, at last, which, though far from being tangible from where we were walking, furnished, at least, a solid substratum to hang an actual historic fact upon. It was a series of h les excavated, hke embrasures, into the side ofthe solid rock, some hundreds of feet above our heads. And it was in these apparently perfectly inaccessible recesses that the women and children of the modern Greeks, hunted down by their Turkish tyrants, sought shelter, and from thence hurled down rocks upon the heads of their persecutors, as these latter unconsciously marched along the narrow path beneath, which was the only route they could take, in that direction, to the city of Delphi. Here hundreds of the Turks were slaughtered by the exasperated and heroic wives of the Greeks, em ulating the best days of their ancestors. On the side ofthe mountain, a littie above the viUage of Castri, we visited the so-called Stadium, which, like that of Athens, is just one eighth of a mile long. The 264 GREECE. semicircular seats, in the same form as of all the amphi theatres in Greece, are still well defined and visible. Here were celebrated the famous Pythian games, next to the Olympic the raost celebrated in Greece. This is the only genuine ruin which has been, thus far, exca vated in the neighbourhood of Delphi. The greater part of it is believed to be yet unburied from the wash ings of Parnassus during the accumulations of ages. Before bidding adieu to Delphi, something raust be said, as usual, of our sleeping arrangeraents with his honour the Deraarch of this city of ApoUo. Consider ing that some of us feU professionally under the protec tion of that deity and his son Esculapius, we raerited, perhaps, the best entertainraent the city could afford. We were not surprised, therefore, that we were receiv ed with open arras and a hearty welcorae, not only by the chief magistrate, but also by his very hospitable family. We had inquired for and called on the De- march when we first arrived, and he had, with great kindness, guided us to the various interesting objects over which his jurisdiction extended; and now, at his pressing invitation, we took up our lodgings for the night at his mansion. Like others of his cloth and quality, he had merely a hayloft or roosting-place in the garret of his one-storied palace, whither we were inducted. The Demarch himself was the pink of polite ness ; but, like the other officers of his rank by whom we had been entertained, his impoverished raeans, and the raeager emoluments, if any at all, that his office yield ed him, debarred him from the power to accommodate us comfortably, however good his inclination might have been to furnish us with food and drink, as well as the shelter of his humble roof. Our servants, accordingly, went actively to work, among his subjects in the town, GREECE. 265 to find something in the shape of eatables. A morsel was found here and there, which, when coUected to gether, served, by the good management and culinary skill of my ever-faithful German domestic Henry, to supply us with a frugal meal for supper, to which our own tea and groceries were a very important appendage. Having appeased, to a limited extent, the furious de mands of our mountain hunger, we were shown into a small roora adjoining our eating apartraent, which had nothing but a bare floor for our accoraraodation. Here we each spread our blankets, as usual, and reposed for the night, sleeping soundly until about daylight. I was awakened at peep of dawn, too untimely an hour for a wearied traveller on the hard and unclassic couch upon which we rested, by the arising and raustering of a hen and her chickens, who, it appears, had shared one corner of the apartment with us, without our having before been conscious of the honour of their company. If noise and cackling were any source of joy to them, it was far otherwise with us, for they continued to dis turb our slumbers, until we were obliged, in self-defence, to curtaU our fair proportions of sleep, and make up our minds to rise betimes for the fatigues of another day. The god Morpheus for us certainly had no niche or temple on this mountain. As dayhght advanced we examined our position, and found that we were in close proximity, if not in actual contact, with his honour the raayor and his illustrious family ; an apology for a partition, in the shape of a few boards with wide intervening spaces, being the only barrier between us. I ascertained that our noisy bed- feUows had not produced the slightest impression on the worthy Demarch, who slept and snored through the whole serenade of the feathered songsters, without be- Ll 266 GREECE. ing in the remotest degree inconvenienced by their mu sic. Nor did the lady-mayoress exhibit the least disqui etude. I was not a little amused, on raising my head from my board pillow, to perceive, through the liberal crevices ofthe wooden partition, that the nightly accom modation of our host and his family was not much raore enviable than our own, they having for their bed ding nothing raore than a tattered reranant of old car peting. I frankly confess that ray syrapathies for them soraewhat alleviated my own discomforts. It may be fashionable even at Delphi to undress for bed, but we saw no change in this respect among the faraily of our host, who, man, woman, and child, rose, hke ourselves, ready dressed for the day, having, apparently, not re moved from their persons the least portion of the gar ments in which they had received us the day before. After .making our host a liberal gratuity for thepleasure of roosting with his poultry and family circle, he wished to impress upon our minds that he had given great sat isfaction to former travellers, and, in corroboration of his integrity as well as hospitality, he presented before us the album or register of his hotel ; and among the few names it contained, he directed our attention to what he pronounced to be a high encomiastic notice given of him by Prince Puckler Muskau, who, it seems, had tar ried a day or two in this Sans Souci of the Pythian oracle. The character of the Demarch, as delineated by the prince, happened to be in German, and, as he supposed, set forth in glowing colours his pecuhar qual ifications for keeping a public house. This precious testimonial of the prince appeared, in the estimation of his honour, to be the sumraura bonum of his aspirations. Upon requesting my German servant to officiate as in terpreter, it proved to be a solemn caution to aU travel- GREECE. 267 lers to beware of his honour's company, as he, the prince, had found him to be not only a irogue, but a great thief! We could hardly restrain ourselves from bursting into laughter at hearing this unexpected trans lation, and, without then undeceiving his honour of the nature of its contents, subscribed our names to his book, giving no expression of our own opinion, however much appearances may have indicated, and our own experi ence confirmed, that the prince had not traduced him. One of our party afterward, however, we learned, could not resist his benevolent inclination to do what he deemed an act of strict justice to the kind expressions of courtesy on the part of the Demarch, by disclosing to him the damning truth, and literally translating to him, and then expunging with black lines, the offensive condemnation of the prince ; whereupon the Demarch looked amazingly confounded, and began to explain the cause by relating that he had prevented Puckler from laying violent hands on sorae of the statuary of the place. With this we finished our acquaintance with the De raarch, and took leave of Parnassus. Looking back on the Demarch's house, and in vivid recoUection of our night's lodging, we agreed hereafter to christen the res idence of the mayoralty " The Hen and Chickens." After our experience here at Delphi, even I, invalid as I was, could not, with aU my enthusiasm, concur with Lord Byron, that "He whom sadness sootheth may abide. And scarce regret the region of his birth. When wandering slow by Delphi's sacred side, Or gazing o'er the plains where Greek and Persian died." Descending from the mountain in a direction towards the Gulf of Lepanto, which lay stretched out below and far beyond us, we passed through an undulating coun- 268 GREECE. try of no particular interest, but in some places exhibit ing appearances of considerable fertility. We met very few habitations in this part of our route, and one smaU village only, which is called Crissa. Shortiy before reaching it we were made fully sensible of our approach by an appearance of great merriraent, and the loud and confused noise of druras and kettles, as if Terpsichore and Euterpe, with their joyous train, had corae down frora the mountains. We did not at first know but what we might have suddenly come at last, when he least expected it, upon our absent and truant friend Bac chus, whose majesty, we must confess, we had a strong desire of having a peep at before taking a final farewell of his mountain possessions. We do not know if, after all, we are not taking an un warrantable liberty with this desperate blase of the celes tial family circle, who, notwithstanding his dissipated habits, was so intent upon his favourite passion, that he planted the vine, it may be said, frora one end of the earth to the other ; and thus, by his practical skiU in husbandry, and his general affable manners in the Olyra- pic saloons, was a prodigious favourite everywhere ; so rauch so that it is difficult to identify his locality with any spot The Thebans clairaed him as born there, and he certainly passed a very large portion of tirae about Parnassus and Helicon in convivial soupers with his protege Pan, together with his preceptor (or wine-taster, probably) Silenus, and the Muses and Cory cean nyraphs. And therefore it is that we judged it reasonable and right that he should have been some where upon Parnassus on our arrival there ; for we do not believe that his taste was sufficiently refined to draw him often away to the company of the Muses on Hel icon. GREECE. 269 The scene before us had, in truth, a strong resemblance to a Bacchanalian revel or Charivari, as is seen in our city, of a Newyear's eve, in the boisterous processions of riotous boys in the streets. Men, women, and chil dren were hard at work on every species of utensil that could emit sound. We rode up to the fence to ascertain what it meant, when a great number, of all sizes and both sexes, rushed to the side of the road, with the priest in their midst, gayly participating with them in the joyous festivity. Upon inquiry, we ascertained that in the small building adjacent was an affianced bride, and we also observed a crowd about the door of the house. As we drew up to the motley group of mu sicians, they struck up a most unmelodious concert of discordant sounds, of what measure or tenour we could not divine, but it doubtless must have been suited to the ears of the rude performers, who have most lamentably degenerated since the time of that ancient musician Orpheus, whose " golden shell" and harp, and their mel low and enrapturing notes, charmed even raore than the silver-toned trurapet soprano of his mother, the Muse CaUiope. They seeraed delighted at our approach, and, through our friend Mr. Hill's familiarity with the mod ern Greek, we learned that an invitation was given us to visit the betrothed. We all aUghted and proceeded to her chamber, which we found to be a garret room. The raoraent we entered, a lovely Greek girl of eigh teen, certainly the most beautiful girl I saw in Greece, rose up and met us with great sweetness of manner at the door. Unfortunately for my taste and curiosity, she was attired partly in Greek and partiy in modern European costume, instead of what once was, but now no longer is, the national dress of her country. Her reception of us was truly raost kind and affec- 270 GREECE. tionale. She took my hand and kissed it, and then begged me to be seated. After we had reposed a littie while, and partook of sugar-plums, which were handed round, she engaged our attention raost agreeably by showing us the extent and variety of her trousseau or wedding presents, all of which were useful and substan tial articles, hanging upon cords in every direction about the chamber. The little apartment, in fact, had raore the aspect of a haberdasher's shop than of a bridal chamber ; and, rauch to her credit, almost every article was the work of her own hands. This was really the most comfortable apartment, in the variety and display of wearing apparel, that we had yet met with in Greece, though it was on the slope of Parnassus. Such was the look of genuine domestic felicity in this humble attic, that I could have readily given the preference to this reahty over all the groves, grottoes, and fountains of ideal happiness with the Muses of Helicon. Upon rising to take our leave, I felt as though ray gallantry deraanded me to reciprocate the salutation with which I had been greeted, which I accordingly did in the raost becoming and respectful manner possible. She was of an excellent faraily, and one of the raost respectable of the village. Her eyes were blue and large ; her tresses long and of jet black ; her features gently hghted up with a soft expression and pleasing smUe; and her complexion fair, and without the sallow tint which generally prevails. If the Pythian goddess was anything comparable to this young lady, I can well cora- prehend why Alexander, and even the fierce King Nero, as well as other notables, and physicians too, should have made pilgrimages to the tripod, and propitiated her smUes with extensive cadeaus. One of the yoimger gentlemen of our party, Mr. W., GREECE. 271 was fortunate enough to have presented to him by her fair hand a lovely rose, whose faded petals, though re calling the memory of one whose heart was another's, he no doubt still treasures as a dearer relic than all the gold the sanctuary of the Delphic temple once held in its vaults. After this delightful tete-d-tete, " the greenest spot" in our reminiscences of Parnassus, we made a hasty visit to the school, where the boys rose and sang; what they perhaps deemed a compliraent to us, the chorus of " God save the King," but which, to our Yankee ears, we con fess, seemed particularly grating, by the nasal twang, too familiar to us, which the Greeks, once the most po etical, but now, strange to say, the raost unrausical peo ple of the earth, give to all their vocal chants. We now proceeded onward, and arrived at the Port of Scala di Salona, on the Gulf of Lepanto or Corinth, which we reached a little before sunset. Refreshing ourselves here with a passable dinner of excellent fish, we erabarked in a caique, leaving our horses in charge of the agoates, to be conducted back to Athens ; or, rather, we should say, to be ridden back, as we presume these grooras, though inured to the hard ship of being constantly on foot by the side of the bag gage-horses, and thus travelling many miles a day for many days in succession, would now at least, as their cavalry were disburdened of our luggage and persons, avail themselves of the luxury of a ride. We pro ceeded up the Gulf of Lepanto, and, after passing a very uncomfortable night on board our open craft, we arri ved, about the raiddle of the following day, at Kalama- chi, a cluster of fishing- huts upon the Isthmus of Corinth, at the upper exti-emity of the gulf This isthmus ac quired great renown, in former times, by the celebration, 272 GREECE. every five years, of the games here instituted in honour of Palaemon or Melicerta, and subsequently of Neptune. Here, again, we obtained horses; and crossed the Isth mus of Corinth, about six raUes wide, to the ^gean Sea or Saronic Gulf, previous to reaching which we observed, on the iEgean side, the reraarkably wide bed of the ancient excavation for a canal across the isth- raus, as contemplated in the remotest time, but not fairly commenced until by the Roman Emperor Nero in per son, with the spade in hand, and which he is said to have done to remove a superstition in the minds of the people, that it would be offensive to the gods or attend ed with UI omens to disturb the earth for such a pur-- pose. The tradition was, that such attempts had been followed by the issuing of blood and groans from the ground. The canal, for those days, was certainly an enter prise of vast magnitude ; and Nero, however cruel in his disposition, and reckless of the interests of his peo ple in the general features of his reign, showed in this instance, at least, some regard for the benefit of this then province of the Roman Empire ; and he was, no doubt, the first royal personage who ever took the spade in hand in a work of such public utUity. It was intended, unquestionably, for a ship comraunlcation between the Mgesin Sea and the Gulf of Lepanto ; for already, for a long period before this, the Corinthians had erected extensive raachinery on this isthraus, of the nature of railways, and called by them the Diolchos, by which their vessels were, it is said, dragged over the isthmus, from sea to sea. None of these vessels, however, in those times, were probably over from 50 to 100 tons, and aU of them mere gaUeys, or triremes, as they were caUed, rowed by oars, like the caiques of the present day. GREECE. 273 This iraportant isthmus, uniting the Peloponnesus or Morea to the continent of Greece, thus, in the re motest period of history, gave occasion and was the stimulus to the ingenuity of the Greeks for the inven tion of those mechanic means which have formed so characteristic a feature of the superiority of raodern times in the scientific application of the laws of hydrau lics to the construction of canals and of inclined planes to that of railroads. These early efforts of the Greeks may be considered among the first great enterprises of engineering upon a large scale ; and which, though so far as the outlines or substratum of the plan is concern ed, were correct, failed in every experiment that was raade, from the time of Deraetrius to that of Nero, frora the imperfect knowledge then possessed of the princi ples of mechanics, and especially from their then total ignorance of that raagic power which, in our times, has been obtained over inert matter through the almost ora- nipotent agency of steam. So rude were the then no tions of hydrauhcs, that the chief cause of abandoning the atterapts at constructing a canal is imputed to the belief that a serious obstacle existed in the supposed difference of elevation in the height of the water on the two sides of the isthmus. After viewing the bed of the canal, we visited a lit tle fishing town, called Schoenus, on the .^gean shore, and close to the more inconsiderable place called Ken- chre, both once the renowned ports of Corinth on the Saronic Gulf, and the latter celebrated in scriptural times as the village where St. Paul landed and erabarked in his different visits between Ephesus and Corinth. Pausa nias asserts that Cenchrce was once the raost iraportant harbour of Corinth, and that the whole distance of Mm 274 GREECE. nine miles, between this port and the capital, was lined with temples and sepulchres. It is related that the apostle here had his head shaved, and made a vow. The Epistie of Paul to the Corinth ians is in a tone of such severe reprehension, compared with those. to the Romans and Athenians, that it clear ly indicates his correct conception of the gross licen tiousness and infamous crimes for which the Corinth ians were then not less notorious than they have been since. " Corinthian vices" was then a by-word to des ignate the moral debasement to which this people had descended. In the adjoining little vUlage, though on the Sabbath- day, I purchased a bunch of fish, and gave them to my servant to carry with us to Corinth to assist in our raeal for dinner, supposing we might meet with short allowance there, as we had in so many other renowned capitals of Greece. We now mounted our horses, and, after riding some hours through a champaign country, in which we passed the ruins of the hospital erected here by the philanthropic American physician. Dr. Howe, out of funds raised in our country, and which edi fice was destroyed during the Greek war, we carae that evening to the city of Corinth. Our disappointment here was not less than in other ancient and renowned cities of Greece. Nothing remains of the pristine glo ries of this great emporium, whose origin and grandeur are so remote that they are lost in the darkness of tirae, and which claimed metropolitan seniority over that of Athens and every other town of Greece, and which, in commerce, in colonization, and in extreme opulence, and in the arts, was called the key and bulwark of Pelopon nesus, " the prow and stern of Greece," long before the siege of Troy and the time of Homer. Nothing of her GREECE. 275 ancient splendours, nor nothing of that proud supremacy which, she held, now are seen ; since that mournful day when her gorgeous temples and erabattled walls were razed to the ground by the Roman Consul Mummius, and made a heap of desolate ruins ; and when the Ro man soldiers were seen amusing themselves with play ing at dice and draughts in the streets on some of the chef d'oeuvres of the superb paintings of this city that they had desecrated for tables. Such was the luxury of civilization to which this capital, by its early, and, for those days, immense com mercial enterprises, had reached, that it was deemed the metropolis of the Mediterranean. It was in her first period of grandeur that Corinth is supposed to have been the first city that built war-galleys and triremes, and was the first that engaged in a sea-fight It was then, also, that she founded Syracuse and other colo nies. It was during the second period of splendour which she acquired, when recolonized by Julius Caesar in the time of the Romans, after her destruction by that people, that the Apostle Paul resided and preached here for more than a year and a half. In sculpture, and especially in painting, her artists had, at the time of the Roman conquest, acquired such celebrity, that the palaces and public places in Rorae were suppUed by the plunder which the Roraan general made of these superb works on sacking the city. And in the casting of brass, and all the forms of ornaments, statues, vases, &c., into which it was worked; Corinth acquired such a monopoly of reputation, that Corinthian brass was a coraraon proverb frora its superior qualities, and the Romans set such high value on it that, when they took the city, they robbed the very sepulchres of their vases and other funereal ornaments constructed of 276 GREECE. this alloy, the exact composition of which is not known. That which was of a light golden colour, resembling the raore raodern latten-brass, was deemed the raost valuable. Not a vestige of this great city is to be found, except ing a group of ten or twelve broken columns, which identify the spot ; and, jvhat surprised me not a little, was that these columns, instead of being of the Corinth ian, were of the Doric order of architecture. I antici pated great gratification in visiting this once renowned city, of which it was said that " it was not for every one to go to Corinth !" and I certainly did expect, upon go ing there myself, as one of the few exceptions to the remark, to find some relic, at least, by which to recog nise that rich and beautiful style of architecture, which has taken its name from its having emanated from the chisel of Corinthian artists. Modern Corinth is but a sorry representative of its ancestral parent It consists of a few miserable, filthy tenements, destitute of every corafort and accommoda tion. It may now be said to be distinguished for its poverty and insignificance. There is not a feature about it that can give the le^st interest in itself over the raost common and insignificant viUage of our country. As to commerce now, not scarcely a fisherman's shal lop, much less a quay or a pier, is to be found. This wretched-looking village stands a few railes frora the Gulf of Lepanto, and, from the low, marshy nature of the surrounding country, and the squalid-look ing appearance of the inhabitants, I can readily under stand the reputed insalubrity of this region. Though we put up for the night at one of the best hotels in the place, it was but the second edition of the Hotel de Delphi, or " Hen and Chickens," of our Par- GREECE. 277 nassian friend the Deraarch. Though not on Parnas sus, we had a rauch higher bed-loft to claraber up to from the stable-yard, where, as before, we bade good night to our cavalry, and submitted to our fate. As this was our entre into the Morea or Peloponnesus, we per haps had a right to expect better treatraent, but, as here tofore in this classic land, we were received into nothing but a bare roora, without a vestige of furniture or bed — a bedchamber without a bed or anything essential to it — a " lucus a non lucendo." I ought, however, to mention, in justice to the Pelo ponnesus, that I had the honour of a wooden platforra, about two feet high, upon which I spread ray blanket, and was thus distinguished by the height of ray hard couch only, above the lowly bed or plank floor on which ray companions reposed in the same apartment. We must not omit to say that, before retiring, we raade a most comfortable supper out of our bunch of fish ; and had it not been for this precaution, we should have had prison fare indeed, as the host had not a soU tary article of food or drink in his stable-hotel. But Henry, ray faithful Gerraan, was a capital cook on all occasions, and struck up a light in the kitchen, and soon had our fish piping hot for us, without which, our board beds would have been much harder than they proved to our wearied limbs. It cannot be said of any of the taverns of Greece, that you get your " bed and board," either one or the other, unless it be meant that your board is your bed, and your bed is your board. After a hard night's lodging, though sound slumber, we proceeded the next morning on foot to visit the inter esting points in the neighbourhood, among which let us commence by stating the famous conical mountain call ed the Acrocorinthus, or Acropolis of Corinth, which 278 GREECE. Philip deemed so important that he caUed it the fetters of Greece. It seems to be an iraraense soUd rock, be ing about 2000 feet high, crested on the top with a vast irapregnable castie, and on every side precipitous and inaccessible, excepting on that by which foot passengers ascend, and by which also wheeled carriages and even artillery can reach to the sumrait The castle can gar rison many thousand soldiers, and now contains a small viUage within it One very remarkable feature at the top is the excavation into the solid rock of about thirty spacious weUs or cisterns, for holding water in time of siege. It was at one of the natural springs of this mountain, and which was pointed out to me within the garrison, that Pegasus, while drinking, was taken by BeUerophon. On the peak of this lofty mountain was once the famous temple of Venus, where this goddess was worshipped in so voluptuous, if not equivocal, a manner, imputable, perhaps, to the great influx of sea faring persons, that one thousand female slaves were eraployed in the performance of the rites dedicated to her service. So towering is this mountain, which is decidedly one of the finest objects in Greece, or upon its seacoast, that we can distinctly see the Acropolis of Athens from its summit, as I well recollect, and which, after the troubles and fatigue, not to say dangers, we had passed in the interval from leaving that capital, made it look to us almost like another home that we had left, and now longed to return to ; being about 44 miles distant only frora Corinth, showing how circuitous must have been our route through the mountains of the interior. The panoramic view from the top of Acrocorinthus is mag nificent beyond all others we had had in this interest ing country, not excepting Parnassus, which we now GREECE. 279 afar beheld, as well as Helicon and Cithaeron. This periscope embraced also a beautiful view of the Isthmus of Corinth ; an extensive one of the Gulf of Lepanto ; the locale of Nero's canal ; and in fine weather, as it now was, the Acropohs of Athens and its noble Parthe non, with the islands of Salamis and iEgina nearer by in the interspace. The beautiful reflections of the accomphshed scholar and divine poet Byron, whose soul, in its too short so journ on earth, lived as it expired in his beloved Greece, constantly recurred to us at Corinth, as at every step of our travels in this land : " Many a vanish'd year and age. And tempest's breath, and battle's rage. Have swept o'er Corinth ; yet she stands, A fortress form'd to Freedom's hands ; The whirlwind's wrath, the earthquake's shock, Have left untouch'd her hoary rock ; The keystone of a land which still. Though fall'n, looks proudly on that hill ; The landmark to the double tide, That purpling rolls on either side. As if their waters chafed to meet. Yet pause and crouch beneath her feet. But could the blood before her shed. Since first Timoleon's brother bled. Or bafiled Persia's despot fled, Arise from out the earth, which drank The stream of slaughter as it sank. That sanguine ocean would o'erflow Her isthmus idly spread below ; Or could the bones of all the slain Who perish'd there, be piled again. That rival pyramid would rise. More mountain-like, through those clear skies. Than yon tower-capp'd Acropolis, Which seems the very clouds to kiss." Siege of Corinth. After enjoying for some tirae this superb spectacle of mountain, sea, and coast, we descended, and resumed our route into the Morea, wending our course over, as 280 GREECE. usual, arid but now lower mountains, and through lonely passes and stUl loneher vaUeys, where not a soul scarce ly, or huraan habitation, or cultivated field, were to be seen in this once alleged densely-populated and highly- flourishing country. We arrived at the little town of Cleone at nightfaU. On our rarables through it, before retiring for the night, we heard music, and entered the house, where we were received with great distinction. The concert iraraedi ately ceased and a ridiculous game was substituted for our amusement Eight or ten grown persons sat on the floor, holding each other by t]^e hands, and having a candle placed in tke centre of the ring. A paper hung down from the cap of each, reaching to the mouth, and these were set fire to as their names were called, and no one was permitted to put the fire out until he had repeated a number of verses. The physician of the town appeared to be " considerably" oblivious. The par son of the place sat cross-legged, smoking, and looking on with evident satisfaction. They teased us so much to drink their bad wine that we took our departure. In the course of this route we passed a lonely raount ain defile, where a most sanguinary and frightful car nage ensued between the Turks and Greeks in their late war. Such was the terrific slaughter of the Turks, that the Greek general is farailiarly known by the appel lation of the Turk-Eater. We believe about 3000 of the Moslems were left dead in this narrow defile and on the adjacent mountain. Learning that this place had been the scene of such a dreadful encounter, I looked, as I rode along, for some relic of the spot ; and, with a feeling of professional selfishness, sought to procure, if possible, some contributions to the Turkish department of ray museum of osteology. As may be supposed, I GREECE. 281 was not long in finding some of the materials of this charnel-house, and picked up, araong other objects, a thigh bone, which, whether Greek or Turk, I know not, as there is no very marked difference in this part of their anatomy. From this point we passed on, and finally arrived at the ancient town of Mycenae, so faraous in the history of Peloponnesus, and once the imperial residence of Agamemnon, when he presided over the empire of Greece, and was her acknowledged chief Those por tions of his history which have been sung by the ira raortal Horaer are too familiar to be particularized. Mycenae anciently constituted, with Tiryns and Argos, the three principal cities of ArgoUs ; but jealousies and bloody intestine wars sprang up, which ended in the total destruction both of Mycenae and Tiryns by the Argives, about 468 B.C. We found not a solitary being now occupying what was once one of the proudest capitals of the Pelopon nesus ; but there were magnificent ruins stiU standing there in all their beauty, and which produced a more solemn impression by their loneliness and the mute elo quence with which they pointed to the historic or fabu lous events of bygone days. In this group of ruins we remarked particularly the Gate of the Lions, or, as it ought more properly to be called, the Gate of the Panthers ; for the rampant ani mals of stone that stand on the immense slab which forms the top of the gate, now almost buried in the rub bish, are much more simUar to our panther than to the king -of the forest We are inclined to beUeve, from our examination of these colossal panthers, and their fine dark polish of a brown colour, that they are of Egyptian basalt, and, in Nn 282 GREECE. fact, the received opinion is, that they were brought from Egypt, having been made there, probably, "to order," as the early commercial relations of Peloponnesus with Egypt were very intimate. Sir WiUiam Gell deeras the Gate of the Lions the earliest authejjticated specimen of sculpture in Europe. This is high authority. As the site of these ruins is elevated, it is beUeved by some that this gate conducted to what was once the Acropo lis of Mycenae. It is a miracle, alraost, that neither barbarian, nor trav eller, nor virtuosi — which latter are often raore destruc tive than barbarians — should have in any wise defaced or mutilated these rare curiosities. One would have ima gined that they would have been long since borne off bodily, as the seacoast and the port of Romania di Nap- oli are but a few miles distant We crept under the gateway on our hands and knees as well as the rubbish would permit, being desirous of foUowing through the sarae passage where, peradventure, so oft had walked or rode in triumph in ages past the famed Agamemnon, the victorious conqueror of Troy. This brought us to the remains of his palace, which are now crurabling walls of masonry, still of considerable altitude and width, and constructed of massive blocks of stone without ceraent, supposed to be of the Cyclopean or primitive order of architecture. A little distant from this, and nearer to the plain of Argos, which stretches down towards the sea, is the celebrated Tomb, supposed to be that of Agameranon. A difference of opinion, however, exists, as some have suggested that it was the public treasury. I am much more inclined to the opinion of Dr. Clarke, that it is the actual tomb of the Grecian hero. It is of a conical shape, covered now with rank grass. GREECE. 283 and is about fifty feet high and fifty broad at the base, and is constructed of stones of huge dimensions. The flat stone over the door, which supports the superincum bent waU, is the most extraordinary, and, in our opin ion, the largest single dressed stone that ever entered into any building, ancient or raodern, not excepting the Coliseum, or even the Pyramids. It measures twenty- seven feet in length by seventeen in width, and is about four and a half feet thick, and is estimated to weigh one hundred and thirty-three tons ! ! certainly the most enor mous thing of the kind I ever saw, and, considering its position and historic accessories, a curiosity of itself al most worth a visit to Greece. The flat stone over the Gate of the Lions is also of prodigious size, though in ferior to this. We have no doubt that the magnitude and weight of these blocks have in both instances con tributed to the preservation of the raonuments of which they forra a part, though we did not deem it sacrilege to procure a very small specimen from each. The question naturally arises. By what machinery could these enormous masses have been brought hither and placed in their respective positions ? But the same question comes home to us in raultiplied force in relation to the Pyraraids ; and we have in thera, and in these, and in other structures, demonstrative evidence that, however deficient ancient populations were in the knowledge of powerful mechanic agents, they raust nevertheless have employed such in addition to their chief resource, which was an accumulation of living human force, as we see in the immense nurabers of labourers that were put upon aU their public works and edifices. The Corinthians had in the remotest times raade unexarapled progress in all the arts, ornaraental and useful, and especially in naval construction, where such great mechanic power 284 GREECE. is required ; and hence their bold and masterly project, by means of the Diolkos, of a railway across the isth mus. Hence, too, the genius in raechanic arts which the Syracusans, a colony of Corinth, inherited from their glorious parent ; and hence the use of the pulley and lever, and warlike raachines, by Archimedes, and the colossal reflecting mirrors by which he set fire to the Roman fleet and saved his country. Frora such facts it is easy to infer that the Mycenians were not back ward in the application of mechanic forces ; as it may be considered that the whole of the Peloponnesus was the cradle of maritime enterprise and arts. We descended by steps, and passed under the enor mous stone which is over the door of the tomb of Aga memnon, the greater part of this sepulchral structure being subterranean. Nothing of any interest was found in the interior. It was a vast, empty, conical, and clois ter-like vault, dark and mournful, as its office probably was intended to be, when it was erected with so much care and cost, to enclose the mortal remains of that king of men, as his laureate calls him. I observed on the floor, which is now no other than the bare earth, evi dences in different places of fires and fagots, left prob- alily by inquisitive travellers, who had lighted up the interior for the purpose of more particularly examining it There is no light admitted but from an irregular aperture at the apex. We continued now our route to the modern city of Romania di Napoli, anciently the smaU town of Naup- ha. On our way we alighted for a few raoments to view on the side of the road, upon the plain of Argos, a waU of considerable height, supposed to have belonged to the Acropolis of Tiryns, decidedly the finest and most perfect Cyclopean remains we had seen in Greece. GREECE. 285 From thence we passed on, and arrived by dark at Napoli di Romania. Finding the gates shut, we had some difficulty and delay in getting admission, and only after having sent in to the commandant of the place a notification of who we were, when we were instantly permitted to enter. Here, to our joy, much as we had luxuriated on an cient ruins, we found ourselves at last in a truly modern European city ; everything comfortable, neat, and busy, with symptoms again of food, and drink, and other ac^ commodations. And h6re, for the first time in ten long, tedious days, almost a ten years' Trojan war, to us as irksome as that was to Agameranon, we were enabled to divest ourselves of clothes, and repose on the luxury of a real bed. We put up at a comfortable hotel, kept, we think, by an Italian, and, of course, ordered such a supper and such wines as would have put the honest Demarch of Delphi, and even his brother, " rosy-faced" Bacchus, to the blush. After a most delightful repast, in which we talked over our perils and hardships, we bade good night to each other, with the full assurance that we should indeed have a good night, and thus re paired to our well-furnished bedrooms, which had both beds and chairs, and no hen-roosts, nor mangers, nor hay lofts, and there, like Christian mortals, enjoyed the live long night in as quiet, domestic, and delicious a sleep as though we had been at our own homes in New- York. It is very remarkable that this city, which Otho first fixed upon as his residence, has not continued to be the capital of Greece, though it virtually is so in its modern European character, its comraercial relations and indus trial habits. But it is to be presumed that the classic taste of the young monarch predominated over other considerations in inducing him to select Athens as the 286 GREECE. seat of government for all Greece, looking forward to the hope of reviving the ancient glories of that truly renowned capital. The loss of the court has been a severe blow to Nap oli. In 1834 it contained 30,000, but now has only 6000 inhabitants. The costumes at NapoU were richer and more picturesque than any we had seen ; indeed, they had quite a theatrical physiognomy. This comes of the pageantry and display always found in cities of active commercial habits. The Greeks everywhere, however, are a gaUant-looking race, and walk with a proud and dignified air. The flowing fonstenella be comes them weU. Sorae of the raen of Napoh that caUed upon us were among the noblest and most elegant- looking Greeks we had seen. The son of Marco Boz zaris did us the honour of a visit He is a superb-look ing youth of 22, of manly beauty and form, and with black curling hair hanging gracefully down his back. He converses fluently in French. On taking leave he bowed most gracefully, putting his hand on his heart, in the expressive manner in usage araong the Greeks. After receiving the visits of our friends, we devotfed the reraainder of the day to visiting different parts of the town. There is an iramense hill, rising up on the side opposite to the bay, commanding a most extensive view of the sea, an infinity of islands, the .^Egean plains, and an undulating country beyond, and having on its sumrait a strong fortress well garrisoned with Bavarian soldiers. The only thing I recoUect of any interest at Napoli was the church where the first president, Count Capo d'Istria, was shot by two Greeks, and the place at the door was pointed out to us where the ball penetrated after having passed through his body. The two assas- GREECE. 287 sins had supplicated the count to pardon a brother who was imprisoned, but, finding their entreaties vain, recur red to this harsh measure. His own servant in revenge shot one of the assassins. The other was taken and hung. From the best information we could glean, Capo d'Istria did not appear to be weU fitted in his habits or education to be at the head of the Grecian RepubUc, which was the first experimental form of organization which the allied powers attempted. The Venetians, when they possessed this town, deem ed it the Gibraltar of the Archipelago. It has a spa cious and securely-sheltered harbour, well calculated as a rendezvous for vessels of war. We could not omit the opportunity of paying a short visit to the famed city of Argos, holding, among aU the other capitals of Greece, whose eventful histories to gether form so gorgeous a pageant in the annals of the world, this distinctive and pre-eminent rank, that histo rians generally concede to it the honour of being the most ancient of all. Though we here for the first time saw wheeled vehi cles passing to and from Napoli, we had been so accus tomed to our cavalry train that we should have felt quite awkward out of our saddles, and therefore did not avaU ourselves of this luxury of locomotion, as it was quite too modern and civihzed for such Bedouins as we had been. We. proceeded upon our nags across the beautiful and extensive plain of Argos, which commences at NapoU. This plain is in the highest state of cultivation, covered with fields of grain, exceeding in richness anything of the kind we had seen in Greece, and denoting a highly- advanced state of agriculture, and a knowledge of the use of the modern plough and other improved imple- 288 GREECE. ments of husbandry. We passed several smaU streams of water which come down from the mountains, and in the rainy season, no doubt, as in aU the south of Eu rope, are swollen into torrents, which admirably serve the purposes of complete irrigation. Argos goes back in its origin to near 2000 years be fore Christ It held for a long time the first rank in the early coraraerce of Greece, and was greatly enriched by its intercourse with Egypt, Phoenicia, and Assyria. About 1000 years before Christ, in the tirae of Perseus, it was subject to Mycenae, whose raonarch Horaer caUs " the king of many islands and aU Argos." In Strabo's time it was stiU the first city of Peloponnesus. Argos, even in its day of primitive glory, had a high reputation in the cultivation of all the elegant arts ; an other proof, with what is afforded also by the history of aU the great capitals of Greece, that a nation pre-emi nently maritirae, and daring in naval adventures, and commercial enterprises and colonization, as Greece was, and our own beloved country to-day is, is always fore most in spreading and receiving the lights of civihza tion, and in diffusing the improvements of science and the blessings of free and liberal institutions. For though the first impulses of commercial adventure may be prompted by the keen desire to acquire opulence, it is the strongest stimulus that can be applied to the invent ive and creative powers of the intellect, and is the key that unlocks to mankind not only the varied produc tions of the earth, but, by constant intercomraunication of one nation with another, rapidly distributes and equalizes th^ sura of huraan knowledge, and thus pow erfully accelerates the march of civilization, of freedom, and of all the useful and refined arts. In lovely Greece, in the midst of her superstitions, and polytheism, and GREECE. 289 mythological worship, the fire of true genius, and an ex quisite and almost superhuman perception of the graces of beauty and proportion are imbodied in all her works of art, while the irapulses of a lofty spirit of freedom and intimate knowledge and conviction of the rights and duties of man, shine out in bright and enduring colours in all the productions of her philosophers, poets, and historians. Argos was first in commerce, and therefore first in science and in the arts, of all the capitals of Greece. She early attained, like Corinth afterward, and from the same causes, pre-eminent rank in every departraent of human knowledge. In music she excelled, for here it was the encantador Orpheus embarked in the Argonaut ic expedition. Ageladas, the master of the sculptor Phidias, and the painter Polycletus, the then Guido in design, lived and flourished here. Herself the destroyer of Mycenae, Argos, in turn, after centuries of bloody conflicts with her powerful and warlike neighbours the Spartans, succumbed finally, on the plains of Mantinea, to that wonderful people. We felt particularly gratified in recurring back to some of the more authentic histories of this most an cient city, to know that we had now come to the spot where probably the first ship, or, rather, sea row-galley, was ever buUt, the memorable Argo of the Argonautic expedition, 79 years before the siege of Troy ; and where the first surgeon that ever existed, our immortal father Esculapius, and his two sons, or surgeon's mates, Ma- chaon and PodaUrius, received navcd appointments as the raedico-chirurgical staff (the two professions being united as they now are with us) in Jason's faraous ves sel, in search of the golden fleece at Colchis, on the Black Sea. We could not but ask ourselves the ques- Oo 290 GREECE. tion, what kind of surgical instruraents, and what sort of a medicine-chest, these primitive aboriginal members of the faculty could have laid in. If those instruments described by us as found in Herculaneura and Pompeii, in the 79th year of Christ, in comparatively modern times, were awkward and clumsy, what must have been the form of the scalpel and catheter of Father Escula pius? In case any of the crew had been severely wounded, we apprehend the result of the consultation must have been to cast the patient overboard. The modern town is quite respectable in size, and the houses are of European construction, like those of Nap oli. The most considerable mansion in modern Argos is several stories high, and was built and is now occupied by a distinguished Scotch gentleman. General Gordon, who was, at the time of our visit, comraander-in-chief, we believe, of the Greek array, and is also the author of a history of modern Greece. The raost interesting object is the Acropolis, a conical-shaped hiU of great altitude, rising immediately in the rear of the town. We as cended to the top on horseback, which we effected with great difficulty, owing to the steepness of the acclivity. Here we found all that remains of the ruins of the an cient city, which is little else than a confused heap of waUs. We had, however, in compensation for our fa tigue, a charming view of the superb plain below, Nap oli, Mycenae, Tiryns, and the wide bay and its beautifiil islets, and, though last, not least, the famous Lake Lerna, As we were now in the immediate vicinity of the Lernian Pool, so celebrated in mythological fiction as the haunt of the monster Hydra, which Hercules here overpowered, we raay mention that this also became of great professional interest to us, from the well-authenti cated tradition, that the very efficient mode by which GREECE. 291 Hercules accomplished his work was through a surgical operation of great severity, to wit, the searing or cauter izing with a hot iron, or burned brands, as sorae have it, the decapitated sturaps of this many-headed monster, being probably the first time in which the actual cau tery was ever used in a surgical operation. We felt ourselves peculiarly happy in being on this antiquated spot, where, probably, Hercules received his early pro fessional lesson from some hints communicated by his contemporary and collaborateur, Esculapius, previous to the latter's nautical appointraent zs fleet surgeon to Com- raodore Jason. It is also probable, frora the rude surgical instruraents then employed, that Hercules must have amputated each head at a single blow, in which case the actual cautery or hot iron was indispensably necessary, as ligatures to secure wounded arteries had not yet come into general use ; and, from the haemorrhage which undoubtedly en sued from the carotids, the animal must have otherwise soon expired, as some, indeed, contend that he did, from the division of these great trunks, whether he raay have had 20 or 200 heads, as the case may be. We will not permit ourselves to have the surgical illu sion of this mythological narrative dispelled by acceding to the more homespun and medical explanation which has been given of this fable, that the Lake of Lerna was the actual hydra or monster, and its numerous sources the heads, which Hercules, or sorae other rich and en lightened planter, endeavoured to stop, to prevent the disastrous effects of the inundation of the plain of Ar gos, whose fertiUty, we recoUect, even as far back as the origin of the city, was so celebrated that the breed of horses nurtured upon its pasturage acquired an almost historic reputation. 292 GREECE. . Stagnant as the Lernean waters would seem to be, and rendered doubly loathsorae by the corrupt and pu trid carcass of the monster hydra, yet is it affirmed that it was in this lake that the forty-nine daughters of Da- naus, who, with their father, had fled thither from Libya, were purified by Mercury and Minerva for the crime of cutting off the heads of their first cousins, the fifty sons of their father's brother .^gyptus, who had come ex pressly from Egypt to woo them. This fable, also, is beautifully allegorized by its application to the thirsty upland of Argolis seeking nuptials with the irrigating streamlets in the well-watered plain. We can, however, readily imagine that a yet more formidable hydra did exist on this Lernean marsh, from the noxious exhalations that every spring and autumn raust necessarily be eraitted from its shallow and stag nant waters. That this malaria must indeed have been more destructive to the inhabitants than would have been the fabled monster, had he even made daily and nightly peregrinations, as he is stated to have done, over the fertile plains, to the terror and disraay of the inhab itants. This, in truth, frora our exaraination of this re gion, and frora what we ascertained of the unhealthi- ness that often exists here, we can conceive, was the true source of mischief, and raore terrific and desolating than either the Lernean hydra or that other eneray that Hercules subjugated in this vicinity, the Neraean lion. Adjacent to the Acropolis, we raay reraark that there are to be found among the ancient ruins many well-de fined stone seats of a vast amphitheatre, built, as is com mon with all places of amusement of this kind in Greece, in the open air, and on the acclivity of a hiU. Returning to NapoU, we set out for Epidaurus, and on our way thither we visited the Plain of Nemea, for G R E E C &. 293 the purpose of examining the ruins of the temple of the Nemean Jupiter. This place is a lonely and sequester ed spot, surrounded by barren raountains, and altogether it appeared to us the most dreary and desolate place we had visited. Not a huraan creature was to be seen or heard in any direction ; which, with the solitude of the majestic ruins of the temple, and the gloomy silence that reigned around, gave the ensemble a sepulchral and deathlike aspect which can never be erased from our recollections. Yet was this spot once the city of Nemea, and Lycurgus its king; and once, as we saw in the mighty and prostrate heaps of ruins before us, the site of one of the noblest temples to Jupiter, and the theatre of those famous Nemean games that attracted the world frora all parts of Greece, and which, in the jostle and tumult of contending chariot and foot races, and wrest ling matches and other robust athletic sports, must have made the very welkin, and the vaUey and raountains, ring with the shouts of joy and victory. The herba ceous and favourite culinary plant, parsley, acquires re nown frora the Neraean garaes. These games were funereal in their origin ; and as chaplets of parsley were strewed on the tombs of the dead, so were the crowns of the victors made of this herb. In looking around, we could hardly imagine whence Hercules could have obtained his mighty club for the destruction of the Nemean lion, which was one of his most daring achievements ; for neither on mountain nor plain was there a tree to be seen, but only a few smaU bushes. AU that we could discern of the temple of Ju piter were two or three huge but imperfect columns of the Doric order standing in position, and several others broken into large fragments and strewed upon the ground. 294 GREECE. The most beautiful aUegory in explanation of the twelve labours of Hercules, is that which makes this god everywhere symbolical with the sun, and traces in the consteUations that eternize his prowess, the twelve re spective signs of the zodiac, through which the great luminary passed in his then supposed revolution around the earth. From this place we journeyed on to the great object of our visit to the Morea, the renowned valley of Escu lapius, embracing within its precincts the ancient city of Epidaurus (now Epidaura), the birthplace of the fa ther of medicine. This was the Ultima Thule of our travelliiig aspirations in the Morea, the Mecca of our pilgrimage in Greece. On our way to Epidaurus we passed the house of Miaulis, one of the bravest generals of modern Greece in her deadly conflict with her Turkish oppressors. We arrived in this celebrated vaUey in the latter part of the afternoon, after a somewhat fatiguing journey from Napoli. It is by no means extensive, but a deep and picturesque ravine, as it were, between the mount ains. Our feelings on arriving at this consecrated ground were pecuhar and delightful, and such as cannot be well appreciated by any but a medical raan. We eagerly sought out what may be supposed to have been the ruins of the teraple of the god of the healing art, dedi cated to that deity, and built, it is believed, over the spot in this valley upon which he is related to have been born. We found in several places confused heaps of ruins, which, however, were not sufficiently defined to say positively to what character of edifice they belong ed, or whether they were a part of the temple or of the ancient city of Epidaurus. Desirous of rendering proper horaage to our great tute- GREECE. 295 lary divinity, we exarained carefully every group of ruins, in order that we raight be sure of doing justice to the great object of our visit, and, after inspecting them all with the hope that we might discover some fragment of the shrine upon which the votive offerings were placed, or one of those tablets upon which, it is said, the cures of the great physician were inscribed, and which might enable us to identify the actual locale of the teraple and its altar, we gave up the search in de spair ; and concluded to select the great amphitheatre as the most suitable spot for the performance of the cere monial we conteraplated, and accordingly prepared the necessary material for commencing operations. This immense theatre, incredible as it may seem, would accommodate within its enclosure, I should ima gine, at least 30,000 persons. It is on the steep side, as usual, of one of the hills, and seemed to us, from its im posing grandeur and remarkable preservation, to be an appropriate place for our intended oblation to the god Esculapius. Let us stop for a moment to say a few words of this wonderful ruin. With the exception of that of Tramet- zus in Greece, and the Coliseum at Rorae, and that of Nisraes in France, it is not only the largest, but the most perfectly preserved edifice of the kind existing any where ; and it would seem, frora the extraordinary width of the seats, being twice that of any other we had visit ed, that it was adrairably adapted, if not specially de signed, for the comfort of invalids, who probably resort ed thither not only for the agreeable recreation of wit nessing theatrical amusements and feats of gladiatorship, but also for medical treatment and advice under the re nowned father of medicine in person. The poor as weU as the rich, the lowly and the proud, the titied 296 GREECE. prince and the coraraoner of the land, irresistibly attract ed by his fame and his great deeds, especially as the surgeon both of Jason and Agamemnon, flocked hither from all parts ofthe Continent, and even from Asia Mi nor, and Egypt, and Rome, and the distant islands, to avail themselves of the consummate skill of the great master, who here, no doubt, within these noble walls, often personally officiated in his sacred rites and mys teries, and established, and held, and immortahzed by his triumphant success, before tens of thousands of en raptured spectators, the first great clinique and concours of our healing art The consciousness that I might possibly be standing on the very spot once consecrated by the presence of the great father of medicine, and where he delivered his oracles to adoring multitudes, and that I too, perhaps, who might say, without egotism, that I had done the medical " state some service," was probably the only American surgeon who had ever visited this hallowed place, and that my voice, as once the commanding tones and inspired discourse of ray great predecessor were, was now heard in its echoes through the sarae mount ain ravine, produced together thrilling emotions of de light and trains of vivid thoughts, that language could but poorly portray. It must be admitted, from historic evidence fiimished by Horaer and others of the siege of Troy, that even anterior to that remote period, both Esculapius and his two sons had unquestionably greatly distinguished them selves by remarkable cures in medicine or surgery, espe cially in the latter, to have attained a reputation so brill iant and extended as was that of these three famous Greeks. What they did probably within this beautiful valley, or within the enclosure of this magnificent am- GREECE. 297 phitheatre, and in various other places, was no doubt as great for those days as have been for our times the ex ploits of professional raen araong the raoderns. > As a traveller and hurable representative of my pro fession frora a new world, a terra incognita to him who has rendered this spot so illustrious and enduring in re nown, I felt it my duty to make a propitiatory sacrifice to his revered memory and name, and to his wide-spread reputation as the ruling deity of- our invaluable art. Having directed ray servant, before leaving Napoli, to provide for rae one of the tutelary erableras of Escula pius, the barnyard cock, of glossy black pluraage, I now asserabled my companions in the arena of the theatre to listen to a Grecian clinique by an American surgeon, and to witness the performance of a surgical operation which, I may venture to say, never before had been performed in this ancient land, even by Esculapius himself, or ei ther of his gifted sons. The victim designated for this honourable sacrifice having been transported from Napoli on one of the baggage-horses, I requested my servant to introduce hira into the arena. After a suitable exordium, setting forth the nature and gravity of the case, the so lemnity and sacredness of the place, and the difficulty and importance of the operation about to be perforraed, I commenced, scalpi^ in hand, previously and properly denuding the neck of the feathers, to lay bare the com mon carotid artery of one side, the patient being firmly held upon one of the seats of the theatre, now again, after the lapse of 3000 years, to be devoted to anatorai cal and surgical uses. With the able assistance of ray ex cellent friend and companion. Dr. Jackson, of New- York, after having laid bare the important vessel, and with proper caution separated it from the deep jugular vein and parvagum, I introduced carefiiUy underneath it, by Pp 298 GREECE. means of a curved eyed probe, a silk ligature, and then tied the artery. After waiting a few raoraents, and find ing that the aniraal, so far frora experiencing any incon venience frora this modern and dangerous operation, submitted to it with a grace and heroic resolution befit ting the distinguished honour conferred upon hira, we concluded, upon consultation, to tie the carotid of the other side, which was also done in a sirailar raanner. I remarked to the pupils present at this Greco-chirurgical clinique, that this was the twentieth time I had tied this important vessel, having perforraed it nineteen tiraes on the living huraan subject in my native country. It is a coincidence not improper, perhaps, to mention, that shortly before leaving my own country the last time, I tied the carotid with success on a young man who, about a year before, had had the same artery tied on the other side, making perhaps the second remarkable instance of a human being recovering after both these great arteries had been successfully secured. Though we found our feathered patient also had ap parently sustained no serious injury, we deemed it suita ble to the occasion to raake a farther and raore soleran sacrifice by dividing the spinal raarrow of the intrepid chanticleer, and thereby terrainating his raartyrdom, and giving a briUiant finale to our cerei|ionies by offering up his whole life to the god of physic. The body was then transferred to one of the baggage-horses, and car ried with us to Athens, where we arrived two days after. And, to complete the funereal rites, we there devoted his remains to the cause of gastronomy by having them served up to us in an excellent supper under the walls of the Parthenon ; flattering ourselves at the same time with the consoling idea, that among the gorgeous array of canonized deities, heroes, kings, generals, orators, and GREECE. 299 poets whose statues once adomed every summit and quar ter of this proud city, she who was the tutelary goddess of Athens, Minerva, the protectress of science, and espe cially that forra of this deity called Minerva-Hygeia, so naraed after a daughter of Esculapins, was looking down frora the Acropolis with srailing approbation at this convivial result of our labours in honour of her renown ed father. The last finishing-stroke was to secure from the wreck of the roasted victira an os hyoides, coraraonly called the merry thought, for ray rauseura in America. A few words more of Epidaurus and its wonderful monuments. Epidaurus was the raother-city of ^gina and Cos, and sent ten ships to Salarais, and eight hun dred heavy-armed soldiers to Plataea. During the Pelo ponnesian war this province or kingdom was the ally of Sparta. Such was the veneration in which the Tem ple of Esculapius was held, that the Romans, in the year 461 of their city, during a dreadful pestilence, sent a. deputation to Epidaurus to procure the sacred serpent, the symbol of the god of medicine ; and which, it is re lated, was kept alive, concealed from all huraan eyes, within the sanctuary, , and fed with the greatest care on milk and cakes. The request was refused. A vast araount of wealth accrued from the votive offerings de posited in the shrine, which was, in great part, plundered by the Roman general Sylla, to carry on the war against Mithridates. The divine honours paid to Esculapius were founded on his reraarkable 'cures, and the reputa tion which he had acquired of having in some instances even raised the dead to Ufe. Pluto, jealous that his do minions might thereby be defrauded, complained to Ju piter, who struck the great physician dead with a thun derbolt, in revenge for which Apollo killed the Cyclops who forged the bolt. Temples were then erected to him 300 GREECE. in various places. He is generally represented in an cient sculptures and paintings with a staff, and coUed around it a serpent, for what reason is not known, un less it had reference to the serpent Python of the NUe, destroyed by Apollo, the father of Esculapius. 'The raven, as well as the cock, is also seen at his feet, the former having been changed by Apollo from white to black, in consequence of having rendered himself odious as the croaking tale-bearer that cast some imputations on Coronis, the mother of the god of medicine. The animal, therefore, that we had selected for our sacrifice was pecuharly appropriate for the purpose, and the more so from its jet-black colour, which commerao- rated that of the degraded raven, that had wounded the honour of his house. The statue of Esculapius is also generally accompanied with those dwarf figures, or pig mies, or, as they are termed, vase gotJfe, which are rep resented enveloped in garments, imaging forth, perhaps, a class of evil or good genii, who, as has been the cur rent notion in all succeeding ages, and even in our own times, were supposed to have a mysterious influence in the production or cure of diseases. The descendants of Esculapius forraed a caste caUed Asclepiades, who becarae a sort of itinerant doctors that were supposed to inherit his mysteries. He is deemed, also, to have been in mythological astronomy the eighth planet, and the same as the Egyptian Serapis, who also was the god of the healing art, and had a temple at Canopus, where important cures were performed, and an exact register kept of them; more than can be said of some of the less marveUous results of hospitals in our own tiraes. Esculapius also shared some of the attributes of Mor pheus, and patients were in the habit of resorting to his GREECE. 301 temple to sleep therein, during which the god revealed to them the cure in their dreams. The amphitheatre, we have no doubt, owed its con struction to the god of the healing art. This reraark able structure is nearly preserved entire, with very iew broken places in it It is of iraraense height and cora- pass, and we reraarked, in various parts of the interior, sraall trees and thrifty bushes, the progeny, perhaps, of balsamic and healing plants, whose seeds were sown by the hand of the god. They were shooting up in aU directions from the crevices and fissures in and about the stone seats, giving a wild and beautiful aspect to this romantic spot, and throwing over the whole of this splendid monument a cool,taod fragrant, and refreshing shade. We remarked in this magnificent amphitheatre, that the ranges of stone seats or steps were of nearly double the width of any other that we had visited or read of, affording thereby a more agreeable and comfortable rest ing or lounging place for the spectators ; a rational ex planation for which was readily brought to our excited imagination, in the supposition that this more agreeable arrangement was purposely designed for the better ac coraraodation of the raultitudes of cripples and invalids who flocked hither to listen to and consult the living oracles of the raedicine god. To coraplete ray recoUections of this sequestered and sacred place, I cut three walking-sticks, which I now preserve as choice raeraentoes of my Grecian Mecca. As evening was advancing, we were obliged to shorten our clinique, having a considerable distance to ride be fore we reached the seacoast and our place of destina tion for that night We now bade a last fareweU to this lovely vaUey and its enchanting objects, and mount- 302 GREECE. ing our horses, slowly wended our way over mountains, and rapid torrents, and through deep ravines, by fearful, and lonely, and often precipitous and dangerous passes, without a habitation or sign of living being to cheer us on our path. Frequently we rode through thickets and bosques higher than our heads, until at last we arrived in sight of the coast, after sunset, and a raost fatiguing journey. And now, for the first tirae in all our journeyings in the interior of this country, we were overtaken by a del uging rain, which poured down in torrents for hours, and drenched us to the skin. Near the seacoast we observed some small habitations, probably of fishermen, and by the time we arrived »at the khan on the beach our condition was truly pitiable ; but, after getting into the house, we found the host, though poor, exceedingly kind and obliging. Here, by means of a fire, we soon dried ourselves, and, after an humble repast, embarked before midnight, the wind being favourable, in a caique which we chartered to transport us to the Piraeus. We set sail under favourable auspices, but very short ly after leaving the coast the land-breeze died away, and we found ourselves in a complete calm. We now made our sleeping arrangements for the night Most of the party took to the deck, such as it was, and laid down in the open air, wrapped in their blankets. For myself, I deemed it more prudent to crawl under the deck, and made my bed upon the sand ballast lying there. The weather being mild, I enjoyed, notwith standing ray pebbly couch, a very refreshing sleep, ren dered by the pleasant and pure zephyrs of the often and justly lauded ^Egean Sea, more agreeable than any I had had on land, except at Napoli. As the morning dawned we c^me in sight of the GREECE. 303 famous island of ^gina, and, with a gentie breeze springing up, we passed in fuU view of the truly superb ruins, situated upon one of the heights of the island, and familiarly known to all who traverse these seas, as one of the raost ancient and celebrated temples in Greece, and which was erected to Jupiter, under the name of the teraple of Jupiter PanheUenius. A greater nuraber of raassive and iraposing colurans are extant in this ruin than in any other we had seen or visited. Some, in truth, pronounce it the most interesting and picturesque ruin in Greece. It is of the Doric style of architecture, built by a colony of that raost powerful tribe in Greece, the Dorians, who early settled here. iEgina derives its narae frora a lady so called, who, after having been kidnapped from the horae of her fa ther iEsopus by that notorious old libertine Jupiter, un der the disguise of his favourite eagle, was brought to this island. The island, though now fertUe, is said to have been anciently so steril that it continued for a long tirae uninhabited, until Jupiter, in consideration, probably, of the solicitations of ^Egina, converted the swarras of ants into men. They then devoted them selves, of necessity, to commercial pursuits, and are even said to have been the first dealers in hard currency, or specie circulation, having been the primitive coiners of a gold medium of exchange, and also the first inventors of a regular measure. They advanced so rapidly in mercantUe rank and power, that they for a long tirae disputed supreraacy with their neighbours of Athens ; and when Darius the Persian demanded submission from the Greeks, the people of ./Egina are said to have ac quiesced in his authority out of spite to the Athenians, and to obtain security for their commerce on the coast of Asia Minor. For this they were punished by the 304 GREECE. Spartans, and came into harness again with the Greek confederacy at the invasion by Xerxes, and exhibited such prodigies of valour at Salamis, that, by universal admission, they bore off the palm frora all, even from Athens. But Pericles subsequently avenged the Athe nians of this huraiUation, and of their ancient hate and jealousy, by overpowering the brave islanders with his fleet of seventy sail, which resulted in their total submis sion to that imperial potentate. In the course of the afternoon we found ourselves again safely entering the celebrated port of Piraeus, which now seemed, after our perilous wanderings, alraost like another horae, especially to those cherished friends, Mr. and Mrs. HiU, who had been our constant companions. On landing, we quickly set out for our long-desired and much-beloved Athens. Though I have frequently spoken of the degraded and abject poverty of the modern Greeks, yet our visit, with all its iUs and privations, was made a most deUght ful one, and will ever be fruitful of the most agreeable recollections. Few of our countrymen have made so extensive a journey into the interior as we have, and without any serious accident ; for which, in the then disturbed state of the country, we cannot be too thankful and happy. On our return to Athens we found our friends very anxious about us, as two murders had just been commit ted near to the city. Even one of our missionaries, who had been on a journey to the Peloponnesus, returned before us, in con sequence of the country being infested with robbers. There is but one hope, in my opinion, for the regen eration of this once classic and brave people, and that is in disseminating the blessings of education. The axe is GREECE. 305 certainly laid at the root ofthe evU, a%we have already said, in the meritorious and indefatigable exertions of our most worthy and excellent missionaries. Too much praise cannot be bestowed upon them and their God like labours. They have directed their attention to the rising generation in establishing schools for the chU dren, and their success is already beyond every expec tation. Should the country remain sufficiently tranquil for ten years to come, the light of education and Chris tian knowledge wUl be let in upon them, and wiU dis pel the gloom of midnight darkness which everywhere shrouds and overhangs this fairy land of the hero and the poet. These schools are to be the nursing fathers and the nursing mothers, the heralds of the future prom ise of the Greeks. They will be the true benefactors of their race. The present adult Greeks are sunk too low in all the vices of Oriental indolence ever to be re suscitated. It is not in their moral, mental, or physical organization ever to be reformed or regenerated. In this opinion I have not been precipitate or hasty. It has not been drawn from a survey of the far-famed Athenian or Attican ; but I have had an opportunity of seeing the Theban in his mountain and his capital, the Lebadean in his capital and on his beautiful plain, the Delphian about his rugged cliffs, and the inhabitant of the raighty snow-topped Parnassus. I have viewed the whole line, frora the long stretch of Mount Helicon to near the highest surarait of Parnassus, frora Acro-Corinth to the plains of Argos in the Morea, and but one strong feature reigns through the whole. But what raust have been the character and condition of these people, when pilgrimages were made by thou sands from other lands to worship at their shrines and their temples; when poets, and heroes, and emperors 306 GREECE. came to enter th« caves and fissures in their rocks and mountains, to consult and interrogate their mystic ora cles in these hidden recesses, and to learn from them their future destiny. Poor deluded victims of fable, of folly, and of superstition ! Inexplicable and humiUating raust the fact ever seera to as, that a people whose genius had reached so ex- trerae an elevation of intellectual culture in architecture, sculpture, poetry, oratory, in railitary and commercial glory, and all the ennobling and refined arts of life, could have had their reason and their faith so completely ab sorbed and seduced, as it was, by the dreamy aUegories and coraphcated raachinery of a fanciful systera of polytheisra. Yet to this unphilosophical, but beautiful mythology, which pervaded every thought of their life, do we owe not only a vast portion of their admirable literature, but those magnificent monuments which ev erywhere enrich and embeUish their land, and which all the world adore, while they mourn over the bewildering infatuation and impassioned idolatry which those monu raental remains imbody, and express under forms so cap tivating. Forever must we still exclaim with Byron ; " Where'er we tread, 'tis haunted, holy ground ; No earth of thine is lost in vulgar mould. But one vast realm of wonder spreads around. And all the Muse's tales seem truly told. Till the sense aches with gazing to behold The scenes our earliest dreams have dwelt upon. Each hill and dale, each deepening glen and wold. Defies the power which crush'd thy temples gone : Age shakes Athena's tower, but spares gray Marathon. Yet to the remnants of thy splendour past Shall pilgrims, pensive, but unwearied, throng ; Long shall the voyager, with the Ionian blast. Hail the bright clime of battle and of song ; Long shall thine annals and immortal tongue Fill with thy fame the youth of many a shore, Boast of the aged, lesson of the young, Which sages venerate and bards adore. As PaUas and the Muse unveil their awful lore.'' • EGYPT. 307 EGYPT. After reposing for a few days at Athens, and enjoy ing the society of our much-esteeraed friends there, we made the necessary arrangements to take passage for the Archipelago in one of the French steam-ships-of-war for conveying the mad, and which was to touch at the Piraeus in a few days. She arrived at the appointed time ; and now, bidding an affectionate fareweU to our much-endeared Athenian friends, Mr. and Mrs. Perdi caris, Mr. and Mrs. HiU, Mr. and Mrs. King, Mr. Pitta kys, Dr. Raisor, &c., embarked in her for the island of Syra. We found the comraander, as in all this line of mail steamers, gentlemanly and agreeable, a skilful mari ner, and in every way well fitted for his important du ties. The accoramodations were excellent, and we were always treated raore as friends and companions, or invi ted guests, than as strangers or raere passengers frora whora any compensation was to be expected. We are happy in having this public opportunity of returning our warmest acknowledgments for the polite treatment we have received from the able officers in command of these French vessels throughout all the East; as we have had numerous opportunities, during our excursions in the Mediterranean, of testing their capacities and partici pating in their courtesies. We would on all occasions recommend to our countrymen and travellers, to give the preference, in their journeyings in these seas, to this mode of conveyance. After a pleasant trip to the island of Syra, anciently Syros, the great point of rendezvous for steam-vessels, 308 - EGYPT. we were immediately transferred, whUe in the beautiful bay of the island, and without landing, to the steam-ship ready to proceed on her route to Egypt We observed, from the yeUow flag that was flying from her mast, that she was in quarantine, and had therefore come from a region infected with the plague ; and it may easily be conceived what our feelings were in passing to a vessel of this description, knowing, as we did, that the moraent we touched her, we should be con sidered among the number of the infected, and be rigidly interdicted from all communication with the shore, and with every boat or person belonging to the island. This unpleasant transhipment created stiU more disagreeable sensations, when we reflected that we were departing still farther from home, and from our families and friends ; and plunging into new scenes and into greater dangers, perhaps those of pestilence and death, the contingencies of which we could not anticipate without some degree of apprehension. But as we had made up our minds to the expedition, with a fuU knowledge beforehand of the dangers to which we should be exposed, we resolved to persevere at least with a good grace in the undertaking we had projected. Directly after arriving on board, ray attention was di verted frora these glooray thoughts by the arrival along side of an open rowboat frora the island, with the Amer ican missionary, Dr. Robinson, and a part of his family. He haUed the ship, and requested my professional advice for one of his children ; for, though I had only been but a few hours in the port, and not at all on shore, he had, it seems, heard of me, and was resolved, at the risk of ray infected position, to avail himself of ray professional services. I descended down the side of the ship to the water's edge, and there held coramunion with ray little EGYPT. 309 patient in the boat, which was kept at a respectful dis tance. Although this was somewhat of an Oriental mode of practice, with the exception that I could see the patient, though not touch the pulse, 1 adapted myself to the novel circumstances under which I was placed, and, with the intelligent account rendered to me of the disease of the child by its father and mother, I was ena bled to make up a satisfactory opinion, and recommend a suitable prescription. We shortly after weighed anchor, and proceeded on our way to Alexandria, in Egypt. We passed a variety of islands in our route, among them Pares and Anti- paros, generally high and rocky, and apparently steril. It was at Pares that Miltiades, after the glorious victory he obtained at Marathon, was shorn of his laurels by his unsuccessful attempt to reduce the island to submission. Paros was famous for its quarry of marble of a homoge neous, close texture, that hardened on exposure to air, and was therefore preferred by Praxiteles and others for sculpture. Of this is the Medicean Venus, the Belvidere Apollo, Antinous, &c. The Pentelican was more con venient to Athens, and whiter, but, from its being coarser grained, was subject to exfoliations and decay. The most remarkable and important event connected with Paros was the discovery and disinterment of the marbles called the Parian Chronicle, which contain a chronolo gy of Grecian history for over 1200 years, counting frora the tirae of Cecrops, 1450 B.C. Antiparos, the smaUest of the two, was faraous for its deep grotto, supposed to have subraarine communication with other islands. The last island in our route, before leaving the Archipelago, was the celebrated Crete, now called Candia. This is by far the most considerable in size, and had an ap- 310 . EGYPT. pearance of much greater cultivation and fertility than any of the islands we had yet seen. Crete has played an important role in the history of the Mediterranean. It was here that Theseus, the gal lant son of iEgeus, king of Athens, slew the monster Minotaur, that fed on Athenian children. It was here that Minos early reigned, and instituted his great code of liberty and equality, and which subjected the youth, like the Spartans, to frugality, temperance, and severe hardships ; to the study of arms, the rudiments of educa tion, and music. By these laws, however, which wise ly differed from the agrarian code of Lacedaemon, and permitted every citizen to accumulate what he could by his industry, Crete rose to great commercial power and wealth. In the Trojan war Idomeneus, king of Crete, furnished no less than eighty ships, a number nearly equal to the entire fleet of Agamemnon. But, like all other parts of the world, Crete, from its day of splendour and power, when it could boast, it is said, of one hundred cities, degenerated into the grossest depravity, for which Paul so severely reproaches thera, and which led finally to their subjugation to the Romans under MeteUus, who was on that account caUed MeteUus Creticus. A tower ing peak, caUed Mount Ida, is in Crete. The island is about 270 mUes by 50, and produces, besides a variety of fruits, oil, silk, &c., chalk in such great abundance that this substance, in the Materia Medica, is denomina ted Creta. My esteemed friend and distinguished countryman. General Cass, has written a learned and very elaborate account of this island. , After a voyage of between four and five days, during which nothing special occurred to mar the pleasure of our very agreeable society on board, we at length de- EGYPT. 311 scried the coast of Egypt, which appeared in the dis tance, what it in reahty is, a low, extended, cheerless waste of sand, recognisable from- the blue waters only by its white glare, without a solitary tree, or shrub, or verdant spot to be seen. The first objects that relieved this deathlike monot ony and attracted our notice, were Pmnpey's Pillar and Cleopatra's Needl^ ; famous and most enduring monu ments of Egyptian antiquity, and not less interesting as most serviceable guides or landmarks, during the day at least, to the mariner traversing this coast. As we neared the land, we very soon distinguished a number of large ships-of-war just leaving the harbour oi Alexandria, and making a most imposing appearance as they successively loosened saU and got under way. We remarked, after they had reached a certain distance in the offing, that each fired a salute and hove to, which, we were informed by our commodore, was the general custom for Egyptian ships-of-war, denoting that they had safely passed over the bar at the mouth of the port These vessels, which were large and beautiful frigates, nearly of as fine models as our own, and built, we be lieve, at Alexandria by American naval architects, com prised a part of the Viceroy Mohammed All's fleet. We soon now began to discover the form of the coast and the entrance of the harbour, which contained the remainder of the fleet at anchor. The town was so low as to be almost obscured behind the shipping. On entering the bay or harbour, which is quite spa cious, we discerned on our left a range of fine edifices, which are the palaces and appurtenajices of the viceroy. It was a rapturous sight, as we passed up, to behold once more, and to greet with proud exultation our own be loved " star-spangled banner" waving majestically in the 312 EGYPT. Egyptian breeze, in the land of the Ptolemies and the Pharaohs. What raade it more delightful was, that, amid the flags of all other nations, and of every variety of colour and device, frora the crescent to the cross, it was the only representative of our country ; and what StiU yet enhanced our pleasure, was to find that it strearaed from tlfe masthead of a brig from our own dear New- York. We soon carae to anchor, and imme diately landed in a small boat upon the sandy shore, for thei:B was neither wharf nor pier. Each of our party now mounted a donkey, which are always found ready there foi' such services, and proceeded to a comfortable French hotel, within the better part of the city, at a short distance from where we landed. Our baggage was brought upon the back of a camel. After reposing a few hours, which we greatly needed from the excessive heat, we sat down to a substantial good dinner, prepared in the French style. Towards evening we rambled about the city, and now, for the first time, felt the exhausting effects of Egyptian heat ; for during our repose at the hotel, the wind had changed from coming off the sea, to the land-breeze, or kamseen, from the desert; and of all the hot, dry, suffocating, enervating, and oppressive winds we ever fe.lt, this sur passes. " Well," said I to my companions, on emerging from the door of the hotel, " if this is a sample of what we are to have, how is it possible for us to exist in it V We aU remarked, as with one sentiment, " It is as hot as an oven." It truly seemed to us utterly incompatible with existence. Though it was no later than the month of May, the extreme elevation of temperature had reach ed from 950 to 1000 of Fahrenheit What, then, we said to ourselves, ought we to look for in an Egyptian midsummer \ The natives and foreigners, who appear- EGYPT. 313 ed to be perfectly conversant with the cliraate, had mostly deserted the streets, and sought shelter in their houses. We limited our walk to a search for the resi dence of our consul, Mr. Gliddon, whose house we short ly reached. Our object was to counsel with him on the steps we were to take in our contemplated journey into the interior, as, from the very warm reception we had just met with and were now experiencing, we deemed it a grave subject of consideration what course we ought to adopt for facing future evils. He received us with great kindness and courtesy, and furnished us with every information and assistance necessary for fit ting us out. I was forcibly struck, upon entering his apartments, with the marveUous difference of tempera ture between them and the external air. Here, for the first time in my life, was I made raost fully sensible of the value and importance of closing all the openings of a house, and thns shutting out the air and light, and with it the heat. In remarking to Mr. Gliddon the comparatively cool and comfortable temperature of his rooms, he replied, that the method he adopted to ac complish it was me only way by which they could live in Egypt There was a difference, certainly, of at least from eight to ten degrees between the air inside and out, which we found to be the case also at our hotel, and by which we were enabled to obtain a refreshing night's repose. The raodern city of Alexandria stands upon the site and ruins of the faraous ancient capital. We occupied the next day with an Arab guide in visiting every object of interest in and about the city, and also the ancient ruins. Our exploring cavalcade in search of antiquities presented to ourselves rather a grotesque and ludicrous aspect, but to the eyes of the. natives, it would seem, we R R 314 EGYPT. had a very distingue and stylish appearance. Our cice rone was Mustapha, the janizary of our consul, whp was rather an important personage, and preceded us with a drawn sword. Our party, four in number, were raount- ed on small donkeys about the size of calves, each fol lowed by a small negro running on foot. Being desi rous of tarrying as short tirae as possible in the fierce so lar heat, we spurred our cavalry up to the top of their speed, and made them travel through the narrow, dirty lanes, at a pace they probably had never been accus tomed to. This, with our broad chip hats and umbreUas, and the laughter which the whole scene excited among us, created astonishment with the rabble, and was a source of peculiar chagrin to Mustapha, who fretted himself very much, and solemnly protested that the levity of our conduct would compromise his character, and our unmerciful treatment of the donkeys put thera hors (horse) de combat. He went so far in his rage as to tell us that his raaster was mistaken in our cloth, or he would not have confided us to the keeping of so dignified a personage as he, the said Mustapha, deemed himself to be. The cantering of a j^kass was consid ered by him an act of sacrilege, and, as an evidence of his own ideas of decency and humane feeling, he furi ously ran over a poor little naked Arab boy, aud then cursed him for daring to murmur. To show the crude notions that are current among gentlemen of the exalted rank of Mustapha, he told us that, but for the viceroy's conscript law, Alexandria would be what she was, he said, in the days of Cleopatra, the greatest city in the world. The modern buildings of Alexandria are of stone, and of several stories high, and appear to be of an approved construction, and among them the most considerable EGYPT. 315 were long ranges of modern-built warehouses, which we found, upon inquiry, were built and owned by Moham med Aii, as magazines for wheat, cotton, tobacco, rice, and other products of this fertile country. The streets in this portion are not as narrow as in many parts of Italy. A nuraber of the ships-of-war in the pacha's fleet are from 90 to 120 gun vessels, all manned by Egyptians. The present city of Alexandria contains about 30,000 inhabitants, consisting of the ancient Copts, Arabians, Nubians, Ethiopians, and Caucasians, besides some Ital ians and French. Here is, indeed, the greatest variety of features that can be imagined, collected by the cen tral position of Alexandria from all the four quarters of the earth. It was a tableau vivant to me particularly interesting, as it afforded so excellent an opportunity for studying the different varieties of the human race, and their traits of character, as illustrated by the peculiarities of complexion, physiognomy, and organization. From the most absolute, unequivocal, and deep black skin of the Nubian, that could possibly be conceived, to the fair Caucasian, with all the intermediate shades, the scene presented a mixture and diversity of the human race that no country in the world, probably, but modern Egypt can furnish. The site of ancient Alexandria is a dreary waste of sandhills, stones, and fragraents of bricks and household utensUs, to remind the traveller that here was once the abode of human beings; that in a circumference of 15 miles was a city containing from 3 to 400,000 of the human race. Where are they gone ? Where is the once famous Alexandrian Library, the then wonder of the world ? not even a wreck of it is left behind. On th.is waste of sand, nothing stands but the huge obehsk 316 EGYPT. of Egyptian granite, called Cleopatra's Needle, of one entire piece, larger than the sandstone Obelisk of Luxor, in the Place Louis Cluinze at Paris; and the beautiful colossal PiUar of Pompey, of the same stone. This last is a round pillar of exquisite workmanship, and also of one entire piece. These are the only mementoes in this sandy waste to caU to one's mind what the city was in the days of the Pharaohs, the Ptolemies, and Cle opatra. The ruins are in the immediate environs of the raod ern city, and are a raass of rubbish, partly submerged in the sand of the desert They look like the confused masses of brick and mortar after one of our ravaging fires. In raany places, however, the cellars of the an cient buUdings were apparent, and could be penetrated without difficulty. These remains of the old capital are several acres in extent, and, taken in connexion with what must have disappeared, show that a vast population, as all historic authority agrees, must have for ages existed in this once favourite capital of the great Macedonian conqueror, Alexander ; and which he hon oured with his name and adorned with his munificent patronage, and with that wondrous library, which con tained all the science, learning, and literature then ex tant. Excavations are from time to time being made, and various antiques, such as coins and other articles, are found in abundance. The only objects worthy of particular notice, of a monuraental kind, are the Needle and PiUar, already mentioned. These are vast monoliths of the Sienite of Egypt, hard, compact, and of gray colour, being of the pecuhar variety of that primitive formation of rock found at Si ena, in the raountain ranges of Upper Egypt. They are every way worthy of the grandeur of the ancient archi- EGYPT. 317 tecture of this country, and did not disappoint us, as some things in Greece did, by their size falling short of our expectations. They are both of great height Pompey's Pillar stands about half a raile from the city, on a sandy elevation, and makes a most conspicuous and magnificent appearance. My own impression is, that it is probably one of a series of columns that once adorned some vast edifice. It is smooth, perfectly cylindrical, and highly polished, with a regular pediment and beau tiful capital. There is not a vestige of inscription upon it, and it is in every respect as perfect and unmutUated as though finished but yesterday, though it has stood there, in all probability, over 3000 years. How this and the needle have been so miraculously preserved through all the desolating wars and visitations of hordes of Greeks, Romans, Persians, Saracens, and Turks, in their successive conquests, is to us an enigma perfectly inex plicable. Cleopatra's Needle i^ nearer the modern city, and, though thus named, is doubtless far more ancient than the PiUar, and of more pure Egyptian architecture, being, as is familiarly kno.wn, an obelisk covered with hiero glyphics, most beautifully executed, and in exceUent preservation. That both the pillar and the needle, though they derive their present names frora some ima ginary and poetic association in later times with the loves of Pompey and Cleopatra, were built for ages be fore the time of those individuals, by monarchs who Uttle dreamed that their character would be thus profaned, is proved by the fact that the hieroglyphics on one side of the needle, or obelisk, are exclusively devoted to a nar ration of the deeds of the famous Egyptian conqueror, that other Napoleon or Alexander, Sesostris, whose his tory covers, indeed, the fa9ade of almost every temple, 318 EGYPT. obelisk, or column now extant in that country. He was the first of the nineteenth dynasty, and existed at least 1400 years before Christ Within a few feet of this obelisk is a second, which is prostrate, and partly buried in the sand. Our cicerone Mustapha assured us that the prostrate obelisk eraitted sounds of rausic, in the sarae manner as, it is said, the colossal statue of Memnon at Thebes, in Upper Egypt, does when struck with the rays of the morning sun. Since this fabulous story was put in circulation, some 3000 years ago, and when, it is possible, as is conjectured, the priests kept a raan inside of Memnon, like the boy in Maelzel's automaton, to make the rausic and astonish the multitude, this prop erty of spontaneous self-supplying harmony has been found a very convenient bait to whet the marvel-loving appetite of tourists, and has accordingly been transferred to sundry other ancient ruins of Egypt How much of credence is to be attached to it we leave others to say. The needle, like the piUar, is a complete and entire work, and in not the slightest raanner defaced. I broke off a fragment of each with some difficulty, as a memento, not only of the monuments, but as speci mens of the geological character of the rock frora which these immense shafts were taken and dressed by the chisel, and, by some machinery or process now un known to us, transported several hundred raUes down the Nile to the seashore. The only other objects worthy of particular raention are the extensive Catacorabs, or sepulchral caverns wrought in the solid rock, on the raargin of the sea, and the beautiful Baths of Cleopatra, near by, which are cut out of t.he sarae rock, and which are actually wash ed and fiUed by the sea. We entered the Catacorabs by a very narrow pass- . EGYPT. 319 age opening towards the sea, and by the aid of torches passed from one large chamber to another, the ceilings of which were ten to fifteen feet high. Though the rock which was quarried out of these strata was no doubt used for building, the original intention ©f these excavations was, it is equally certain, to appropriate them for the interment of the dead. We saw in them a number of niches, which, from their shape, were evi dently for the reception of bodies, and in various places we found human bones scattered about The baths were so clean and inviting, as the waves rudely dashed into them, that ray corapanions were tempted to cool themselves from the excessive heat with this refreshing luxury. * Ancient Alexandria is supposed in its circuit of fifteen miles to have once contained not only 300,000 free citizens, but as many slaves. It was built by Alexander as the seat of his empire, and the emporium of cora raerce with the Indies, which it continued to be to the time ofthe discovery ofthe Cape of Good Hope. Alexander the Great, after a brief reign of twelve years, in which he conquered Greece, Asia Minor, Egypt, Persia, and India, died at the early age of 32, at Baby lon, and was buried in a golden coffin, by his distin guished general and half-brother Ptolemy, at the town of Alexandria, and worshipped with divine honours. The sarcophagus that enclosed the coffin was recovered in 1802 by Dr. Clarke, and perfectly identified. It is now in the British Museum. Ptolemy had, previous to the death of Alexander, been assigned to the governor ship of Egypt, and afterward became the first of the Egyptian kings of that race. Save those two solitary and exquisitely-elaborated shafts which femain on this spot, and project their beau- 320 EGYPT. tiful forms so gracefully upon the horizon, standing amid the crumbUng and misshapen masses of ruins at their base, and eloquently speaking, as they point to the heavens, of the gorgeous splendours of this once renowned capital, and of J:he generations that have successively lived and flourished here and gone to other worlds, there is nothing that can in the faintest degree imbody to the imagination any conception of what this great emporium was in other days. There is no doubt, by what is recorded in the hie roglyphics on the obehsk, that Alexandria was a mighty city for ages before the tirae of Alexander, who enlarged and adorned it, and gave it his name. But who could be lieve that here, also, after him, reigned for several hun dred years that long arfd illustrious, yet (like all other monarchical dynasties of the world) blood-stained hne of the Ptolemies, who were so famed for their cultivation and protection of letters and the arts ? Such was the renown of the Ptolemies, that statues were erected to thera at Athens in front of that celebrated structure the Odeon, built by Pericles in honour of the victory at Salamis over Xerxes, and the roof of which was forraed of the masts, and spars, and spoils of the Persian fleet. The Odeon was burned by SyUa, and rebuilt by King Ario- barzanes. Here, too, at Alexandria, that divine and ac complished, but depraved queen, Cleopatra, ruled in imperial magnificence, and shared the throne in inces tuous marriage, as was then the usage, with her two brothers ; till, repudiated by one, and the murderess of the other, her wretched life was terminated by her own hands, in frantic despair at the supposed death of her infatuated pararaour, the Roman general and triumvir, Marcus Antonius. The Mareotic Lake hes just out of the town, in the rear of Porapey's Pillar, and is now used for the manu- EGYPT. 321 facture of salt It was once drained, but the exhala tions that arose frora the raarsh and stagnant water that reraained, were found to be exceedingly noxious, in con sequence of which the water was again readmitted. We can very easily understand why the old city of Alexan dria, and even the modern one, should have become un healthy, from the action of the rays of the sun upon an extensive surface of wet sand and mud, left after the draining of this lake ; and that even the plague in this country should follow the intemperate and sultry heats, operating upon such a prolific laboratory of deleterious miasras, rendered raore active and injurious by their ad mixture with the infected air of the filthy and over crowded cabins and shanties of the poor Arabs in va rious parts of the city and suburbs. The air of Alexandria and its environs, from its dry ness and heat, may nevertheless be conducive to the relief of pulmonary invalids, and the raore so frora the occasional mixture with it of paludal exhalations, as it is familiarly known in all countries that consumptions never or rarely occur in marshy and fenny districts. This fact has been weU established in raodern times in Europe, where the climate is equable, but it does not hold in our country, where marsh exhalations, or the malaria of our river and lake bottoms, are no guarantee against the pernicious influence which our sudden and extrerae alternations of temperature produce upon the lungs. Celsus, in recomraending Alexandria to his Roman countrymen as a place for pulmonary invalids, raay have had reference to the condition of the climate which we have stated. He says particularly that there is scarcely a day there that the sky is not bright and serene, from the tranquil state of the air. We have no doubt, how- Ss 322 EGYPT. ever, that the excessive heats that prevail most of the year would be too exhausting for most pulmonary patients. Near Alexandria is the Bay of Aboukir, which re called to us the famous naval battie of the NUe by Lord Nelson, one of the most brilhant victories in the annals of the British empire. It was, perhaps, the most san guinary, except that of Trafalgar, and for the few hours that it lasted, reddened the sea with its dreadful car nage. The French and English blood spUled on this occasion exceeded, perhaps, in amount all that ever was shed in the boasted ancient naval conflicts in these seas for the last 3000 years, frora the time of the Trojan war under Agaraemnon to the present day. But what avails these triumphs of modern times, and what advantages have been gained to the sum of hu man happiness by such wanton havoc of the human race I What feelings of sadness and humiliation must naturally come over the mind of the traveller when, standing on this dreary and now silent waste of sand, he reflects on that horrid and wilful slaughter by con tending hosts, calling themselves Christian beings, and whose mutilated bodies here once crimsoned the inno cent wave with their gore. Alas for poor human na ture ! where are the actors now 1 Having made our arrangements and laid in our stock of provision, we now erabarked on board an open canal boat, and, bidding adieu to Alexandria for the present, proceeded on the Mahmoudiah Canal, so called, built a few years since by Mohammed AU, and connecting, by an excavation of fifty miles through the desert, the sea coast at Alexandria with the River Nile. It is a respectable work, which does much credit to the enterprise of the viceroy, and through this channel EGYPT. 323 passes nearly the entire coraraerce of Egypt. We met a great number of boats coraing down, and laden with produce of every kind, particularly wheat and cotton. As usual in other countries, we were drawn by horses on the banks, and at a very good rate of speed. We had set out in the raorning, and arrived a little before evening at the little town called Atph, on the Nile. The river is here of good width. We now left our canal-boat, and embarked on board of one of the com mon sailboats of the Nile, which we had chartered to convey us to Cairo. These craft are an open sort of scow, flat, and rather narrow, and ordinarily with two masts and two large lateen sails, and some of them pro vided with an apology for a cabin, into which the pas sengers raay creep during the night They are without beds, blankets, chairs, or any accoramodations whatever, and are manned by Arabs, and by natives of every part of Egypt and even Nubia ; the latter being as black as the Ethiopian, but with better formed features, and cer tainly, we should judge, of superior inteUectual capaci ties to the coraraon African frora Guinea that we occa sionally see in our country. In these boats every passenger must provide his own comforts in the way of bedding and food ; and for the matter of sleep, he is abundantly well taken care of du ring the night by armies of vermin, of a far more ven omous description than anything we should imagine that Moses called into being, or that we had yet encoun tered in our travels, not excepting the battie-ground of Marathon. Of this we had a very fair sample the first night of our voyage up the Nile. The setting of the sun seemed to be the signal for them to commence their nightly revels, and they accordingly came out in legions and cohorts from their crevices and hiding-places during 324 EGYPT. the day, and committed most painful depredations on our American blood, interfering materially with our slumbers. They are, to a certain extent, hydrophobic, but the element of water is not fatal to them ; for, notwithstanding the sinking of boats, or even of men, they seem to have life-preservers, and to possess the means of surviving aU disasters " by flood or field," that they may carry on their implacable war upon the human species. It is a common practice, before chartering the boats, to submerge thera as well as the crew, with the vain hope, that, when both parties rise again, they shaU be emancipated and disembarrassed of these unpleasant companions. But this is not the case ; for they chng with a pertinacity as incomprehensible as it is painful to the traveller ; the captain and crews being apparently, in every sense of the word, perfectly bug-proof against every annoyance of this kind. Native blood, probably, fi'om tiie miserable penury and impoverished diet of the inhabitants, enjoys a degree of immunity from these in sect invasions, while a fresh supply of the rich and wholesome American juice would seem to be a delicious treat Fond as the Egyptians, in their worship, were of dogs, cats, lizards, snakes, alligators, toads, and bee tles, we imagine that the class of coleopterous insects we have been speaking of were religiously excluded from their category of household gods, or the people of the olden tirae raust have had skins tougher than the hide of their own favourite idol the hippopotamus. Happy for Moses and his companions, miraculously, through God's providence, spared from these marauders, that would have so sorely afflicted his people in their bondage, and drained the cup of bitterness to its dregs. The NUe boats are ordinarily manned by a reis or captain, with from ten to fifteen oarsmen, who alternate- EGYPT. 325 ly row, or tow the boat by a line on shore, or attend to the sails when the wind wiU permit Notwithstanding their awkward buUd, and clumsy rigging, and flattish bottoms, they are the fleetest boats, and saU the nearest to the wind of any we have ever seen, not excepting our famous pUot-boats. This must be owing to the pe culiar form of the lateen sail. The river presents on both sides fertile alluvial banks, which, when the water is low, as it was at the present time, appear in raany places of considerable height At intervals we carae to small villages, which were nothing more than clusters of wretched mud cabins, surrounded often, however, by luxuriant fields of grain, tobacco, and maize, which latter was of a growth so much larger and taUer than the stinted apology for our Indian corn we had seen in Europe, that it gave the scenery in this part of Egypt, to us, a homehke and cheering aspect The river being low at this season (May), sandbars were visible in great abundance, and often, during the day, a number of our men were obliged to leap over board, which they did as nimbly and as readily as their own crocodiles, to push the boat off as often as she grounded, which happened raany tiraes during the day and night. We frequentiy landed, during the day, at sorae of the principal villages, in search of provision, which, in sorae of the raore considerable towns, we found at the raark.et- places. We were occasionally enabled to procure tol erable rautton and fowls at raoderate prices, the former under such circurastances as were not calculated to have made it very acceptable except to our keen appe tites. There was, in fact, no such place as a regular market. The sheep are most slovenly and disgustingly slaughtered on the ground in the open sun, and the pur- 326 EGYPT. chasers had to contend with numerous and greedy com petitors in the shape of swarms of flies, which seemed ready to devour the carcass entire before it could get to the hands of the cook. We found abundance of excel lent cucumbers, tomatoes, and watermelons, which proved an acceptable and refreshing addition to our meals. Oc casionally we met with fresh-baked bread, quite palata ble, and in the form of thin pancakes ; also apricots and tobacco. Some of the hucksterwomen had an apology for a market-house, in awnings made of palm-leaves to shelter them from the burning sun. The prices of arti cles were very cheap : chickens, four piastres (20 sous) apiece, apricots three piastres, &c. Frequently, when the above articles could not be had, we resorted to the expedient of supplying our larder by depredating on the flocks of pigeons. These are of the domestic vari ety, and multiply in such prodigious numbers that they sometimes almost darken the air, like our wild species in the Western States. They fly about in tens of thou sands along the shore, and are made common property of by travellers. When landing at the mud villages or elsewhere, we were carried ashore on the shoulders of some of our Arab crew, who accompanied us to keep off their poor naked countrymen, who otherwise, but for the hearty kicks they received, would have teased us to death with their iraportunities for buksheech, as they call money. They swarm worse than flies, and seera to be literally a nation of beggars ; yet do they appear happy in their raisery. Every mud hut almost turned out half a dozen or more brats, who frisked about like gnats in the sun. From their bronze and tawny skin, they raight readily be taken for groups of young pa pooses, and their parents for genuine American squaws EGYPT. 327 and Indians ; but they are infinitely more nimble and industrious than our lazy, lounging aborigines. Under seventeen the children are left to run literally stark naked. After that period both sexes wear a girth, and some of the females a short blue petticoat, which is biit a sad apology for a covering. We saw many of the boys minus a finger from the right hand, purposely cut off by their parents, as we were informed, to prevent their being pressed into the pacha's service ; aU of which one of the little fellows made exceedingly inteUigible to us by the vivid gestures and pantomirae for which the Arabs are renowned. The loss of one eye, also, is not uncommon, and, though generally imputable to the destructive ophthalmia of this country, is sometimes, we were told, the result of design, to procure the same exemption which is ob tained by mutilation of the hand. The finger-nails of the women, with the Eastern, or, rather, Asiatic notions of beauty, are died a reddish yel low with henna, which, with jet-black hair and eyes, and teeth of exquisite whiteness, give them a singular appearance. We saw on our route but one pretty Arab girl. She was about fifteen, and carrying a jar of water on her head, which was partly covered by a veil, dis closing, however, a large black eye and dimpled cheek. Except for the veU, she was perfectly naked. The features of some of the men possess great sym- raetry and delicacy, and are strikingly handsome. Their eyes are deep black and pecuharly piercing. Their forms are generally slender, and the muscles, owing to their constant use, and so much walking and hard la bour, are developed in harmonious proportions. They are seldom encurabered by adipose matter. Their heads are shaved close, and but few of them have beards. 328 EGYPT. Their ribs are very prominent, the stomach much de pressed, and the skin of a copper 'colour, but rough and cracked by the torrid sun. The pigeon-cotes are smaU conical houses, shaped Uke sugar-loaves, and, frora their height being greater than the mud-cabin edifices of their owners, are fre quently the first objects seen among the beautiful waving foliage of the palm-trees. One of the odd things we remarked on the NUe in various places are the buffaloes, which occupy the place of our tamed cattle, and are often observed coming down in herds to the river to drink, and to enjoy the cooling luxury of bathing in the stream, in which they some times remain for hours with their bodies totally iraraer- sed, and the tip end of their noses only above the water. We also saw these animals employed at work on the banks, turning curious and awkward machines, to raise the water, to the height, in many places, of some ten to twenty feet, for the purpose of irrigating the fields. At other tiraes, we observed the water raised by raeans of a bucket attached to the raiddle of a rope, swung by- a man at each end. In various places, also, along the shore, we saw long trains of loaded camels, with their naked drivers, and women in a state, if possible, of still greater nudity, fill ing jars of water near the margin of the river. Besides multitudes of pigepns, we saw pelicans, gulls, hawks, numerous flocks of cranes, and other water-fowl that naturally frequent in such abundance, as they have done from time immemorial, a river so prolific as the Nile is in furnishing from its mud exhaustless sources of food to these descriptions of the feathered race. The water of the NUe at this season, though low, was running in a rapid current, and of a yellow colour, re- EGYPT. 329 sembling that of the Seine and the Tiber, frora the sand which it brings down. When first taken from the stream it is unfit for use, from its'foreign admixtures ; but, when left to settle for half an hour, becomes trans parent, and, from the earthen vessels used being porous, and admitting of transudation, and therefore evapora tion, it is rapidly cooled to a temperature that seems almost icy, thereby forming a delicious drink. This is one of the really ingenious and most useful applications of chemistry come down to us frora the earliest periods of Egyptian history. The river is very winding, but the appearance of the country raonotonous, and such as we have described it The Nile, the boast and pride of ancient and modern Egypt is not one third the size of our raajestic Hud son ; but justly was it denominated, from its fertilizing properties, the queen of rivers, and even deified by the ancients, who resided on its borders and frequented its waters. One very singular feature of it is, that, for a course of one thousand miles, it receives no tributary stream. The frightfully dry and burned-up state of the whole alluvial and sandy tract on its borders, indicates the salutary and benign influence of the inundation of these regions by the rising and swelling of its waters. To aU appearance, this dreary and monotonous waste, would, without it, be inhospitable to man and animals, and the whole of the vegetable creation would languish and die. The most interesting associations of sacred history connected with this river and the. adjacent coun try, give an abiding interest to its otherwise desolate aud mournful wastes. The little clusters of human hab itations are built of mud, about the height of a man, flat upon the top, of various shapes, with only one aperture for the entrance and exit of the wretched inhabitants. Tt 330 EGYPT. Some hundreds of these abodes of human beings are often clustered together, presenting not even the neat ness or raasonry of the dwellings of ants or wasps. From time to time, as you journey along, the eye is re lieved and the heart gladdened by the sight of a few of the noble and majestic palms and mulberries, which al ways announce that there, such as it is, is the residence of man. Nothing denotes that the country or man is marching forward. There is no appearance of intellectual or raoral elevation. A few of the bare necessaries of life, in their coarsest condition, are to be obtained among them. The most abundant article to be found is to bacco, which they use with the greatest prodigality. Indeed, the raen who are left frora the pacha's services, appear to me to consume nine tenths of their time in luxuriating in the smoke of this vegetable narcotic. I could not observe among the woraen, who are rauch more nuraerous than the men, any other employment than bringers of water frora the river in large red earth en vessels, always on their heads, and very many of thera, frora twelve to fourteen years of age, carry, besides the water-jar, a naked infant in the arms, or, what is far more common, curiously astride of one of the shoul ders. The universal dress of the women, old and young, when they have any clothing at all, is one entire piece of blue cotton, very loose, with sleeves, and with which they also cover their heads, and all the face except one eye. Not a shoe or a stocking is to be seen among them. They are generally thin and tall, and have all the beautiful symmetry which Nature has given them. Though in colour they generally resemble the Indians of America, the Bedouins are a littie lighter. . We speak now of the common Arabs along the Nile EGYPT. 331 and in the cities. A fat man is a rara avis in Egypt, so neatly knit together are their fine, muscnlar, and weU- turned sinewy lirabs. But fat women, when they are fat, especially those of the better class, and who have borne many chUdren, and also those of the harems, are literally hills of flesh. For some distance before reaching Cairo, we saw, far off on our right, the wondrous Pyramids, whose pointed summits were the only marked objects that broke the unvarying and undulating outline on the wide waste of sandy desert These magnificent and mysterious structures, which far exceed in magnitude all other ancient monuments known, and whose origin and object have totally con founded the researches of every writer who has noticed them, from the time of Herodotus to the present day ; constantly intercepted the blue outline of the horizon with their gray and pointed sumraits during all the re raainder of the route to Cairo. After a voyage of about four days, in which nothing of great moment occurred, we approached Cairo and its port on the river, caUed Boulak, about a mile and a half distant from and continuous with the capital. There were a number of craft of the description of our own vessel lying tied to the shore. Cairo, seen from the river, is far from imposing, excepting for the turrets and spires of a great number of mosques. Its locality is on the edge of the Syrian desert, and a few mUes south of the city are seen the low ranges of the Mokattam Mountains. After we reached the shore we despatched our Arab servant in search of a house for our accom modation in the city, as he was familiar with the place. He returned in less than an hour with the information that he had succeeded in his mission. We now landed, 332 EGYPT. and our baggage being placed upon a camel, we mount ed donkeys and proceeded to our new residence, which we found to be, not one of the ancient and roomy tem ples, but an empty shell of a small brick edifice, con taining several diminutive apartraents. This mansion, however incommodious in our eyes, and discordant with our enlarged American notions of comfort, was deemed a great affair in Cairo, and, besides, was situated on one of the principal streets in that curious capital, the width of which, though one of the main avenues, was no more than just about sufficient for a donkey to clev erly turn round in. So much for the Broadway of Cairo ; for it richly deserves that appellation, compared with sorae of the streets, that are absolutely not raore than three or four feet in width, barely sufficient for one or two persons to go abreast, and many of them not wide enough for that, but obliging us to go in Indian file. A carael can scarcely squeeze through sorae of the pas sages, and in others he would find it as impracticable as to go through the eye of a needle. In the upper stories of the houses the opposite verandahs of the windows are in actual contact, giving great facility for neigh bours, provided they are on friendly terms, to visit each other from house to house without the trouble of going into the street We had first observed the Oriental mode of construct ing cities at Valetta in Malta. The evident purpose has been, unquestionably, to preserve the streets, or, ra ther, lanes, cool from the excessive heats, which, as we have before observed, it effectually accomplishes, but at the risk of giving greater mortality to pestUential dis eases when introduced into so impure and confined an atmosphere. Probably, also, one of the motives of this kind of architecture was the greater facilities and shel- EGYPT. 333 ter it gives for the escape of persons during civil cora- motions and assassinations, so sudden and frequent, more especially in raodern Egypt since it fell under the dominion of the Arabs. We should really imagine, at our very first entrance into Cairo, and we found no reason to change our opin ion during our sojourn there of a fortnight, that the city was built upon the labyrinthine principle of a puzzle, in imitation of some very ancient structures in Egypt and Greece ; for it appeared to us next to impossible to discover any certain landmarks by which to thread one's way through its minute ramifications. It would certainly occupy a year's residence to become suffi ciently famiUar with this place, for any one to find his way from home or back again, after plunging into its mazy pathways; yet, notwithstanding all this, Cairo is. a beautiful and pure specimen of a truly Oriental city. AU that we found in our house were two or three settees, as apologies for ottomans, together with one table or " tripod," such as it was, for we believe it had but three legs — and a. few crazy chairs. Add a nonde script, intended as the ghost of a bedstead, and we have the sura and substance, all told, of our materiel for com mencing housekeeping in the metropolitan city of Mo- hammed Aii. We confess it did not present many in ducements to us to become subjects of the viceroy, or to forswear our religion on the Koran. As our residence may furnish some idea of the man sions of genteel life in Cairo, we must describe it It was two stories high, built of a kind of white mortar ; the door green, with an iron knocker and wooden bolt The verandahs of the windows projected nearly to those on the opposite side of the street There were twelve rooms, with the ceUings very high and the beams expo- 334 EGYPT. sed. Ottoraans were placed in the recesses of the win dows which were without glass, but instead thereof lattice-work, affording free ingress to the innumerable small birds which abound here. There was an area in the second story, surrounded by the rooms, wholly open to the heavens, and fiirnishing a very pleasant lounge of an afternoon for smoking. This area in the Turkish houses is the sanctum sanctorum, and is always built for and appropriated to the harem, as the ladies that inhabit it can see into the street without being seen. The position of the rooms and staircase would be diffi- culfto describe. Two thirds of the best houses in Cairo are built in this fashion. Our servant, upon examining the condition of our culinary department, found that also to be a tabula rasa, or, to speak more properly in reference to its alchemy, a " caput mortuum" or " residuum," not being able to boast of a sohtary utensil of any description whatever. Our first attention was naturally directed to this apart ment, and, in order to comraence gastronoraic opera tions, which our feelings repeatedly admonished us to do, we were obhged to have recourse again to the diplo matic ingenuity of our factotum, my faithful German servant Henry, who sallied forth with his new Arab associates in search of the ways and means. The first, great movement was to transport from our boat our portable furnace, two of which we had purchased for the .river voyage at Alexandria, and one of which, hap pily for us, reraained entire, as the other was hors de combat by an accident en route. This being arranged, the Arab guides conducted Henry, who was our chef de cuisine here in the land of the Pharaohs, as he had been in that of Agaraemnon, to the market-place and groceries, where he obtained a EGYPT. 335 comfortable and palatable supply of meats, eggs, and fruits, which, the reader need not be assured, we eager ly devoured at our repast By the aid of my travelling bed, I also passed a very comfortable night. This bed is a contrivance I would recommend to all who visit Eastern countries. I was fortunate enough to meet with one at Athens whicli had lately made the tour of the East, and was of a su perior construction, and of English manufacture. Its hollow brass supports and connexions, with a sacking bottom and a moscheto bar, occupy altogether a small package, which could be conveniently carried under the arra. With this, and the bed linen that I always had with rae in my portmanteau, and my Grecian 'pillow, presented to me by a fair lady of Athens, I never ceased to have the means of obtaining a comfortable night's slumber, shielded from the reptiles and creeping things of the ground, and the armies of moschetoes that some times annoyed us from the air. The next day, renovated by a good night's sleep, we were escorted by our faithful Arab servant, Asaph, who was soraewhat farailiar with Cairo, and whom we had had the good fortune, through the kindness of our con sul, Mr. Ghddon, to engage at Alexandria, to the bureau of the acting vice-consul of the United States, Dr. Wain, who received us with great kindness, and immediately procured for us a cicerone, to conduct us to all the in teresting objects in the city. He was an intelligent Arab, like most of this race, and spoke French and Ital ian fluently. AU being mounted on donkeys, servants and masters, we proceeded, rank and file, through the winding and circuitous lanes, taking a general survey of the whole city. It occupies an area of no less than seven miles in circumference, which, il may well be con- 336 EGYPT. ceived frora its compactness, though the houses are not often over two stories, must contain an imraense popu lation. The best accounts give the number at about 250,000. I do not remember a single street that was paved, the foundation being the sandy earth, which is comminuted into the finest and most impalpable powder or dust. This, though constantly shaded from the sun, is always in a dry state, owing to the absence of rain at this sea son and the extreme heat ; and it is thrown up in clouds from the incredibly dense masses of population who are always thronging the streets. In fact, it is astonishing, even though aUowance be made for the narrowness of the streets, what extraordinary numbers of persons are perpetually moving to and fro, most of them on foot and many on camels and donkeys, and in some places abso lutely blocking up the passages ; so that each Arab ser vant on foot that accompanied our donkeys, found it difficult to clear away the poor wretches that encum bered our path. At our first setting out from " our hotel," a long hne of huge camels, tied one behind the other, whoUy block ed up the narrow street and forced us against the houses. After that we again stopped to make room for a pro cession of raen, with drums and donkeys, all in honour of a little black fellow perched on the top of a camel, and who either had been or was about to be circum cised. Next we passed two or three men with large skins of water of the Nile, which is very dirty, but the best they have to drink. Here we saw a house built of cane, with a shed in front, and under it a dozen or more Turks and Arabs sitting cross-legged, and smo king and drinking coffee and sherbet. Several men, with a crowd around them, were performing curious tricks. E G Y P Tfe 337 swallowing swords, &c. A veUed woman begged for buksheech ; her pretty eyes and sUk dress told another story. Next were a dozen or more boys and girli§, as na ked as Avhen first born, playing in the dust ; dirty as they were, their faces were pretty and their eyes beautiful. Their bodies, however, appeared to be deformed, from their protuberance, as with raost of the poor children, and owing, probably, to the vegetable crudities of in- nutritious food they live upon. Of several hundred women we saw, at least seven eighths of them carried a child upon their shoulders, and about the sarae proportion were veiled, that is, no part of the face was visible except the eyes, which is the only feature exposed. The edge of the lids within is painted with a black pigment called kohln. The arched brow is clearly and beautifully defined with the sarae dark pigment, as if painted with a pencil. , The eyelashes are long and black, and the eyes of a jet-black brilliancy. Indeed, this feature appeared to us, from the highest to the lowest classes, of an exquisite and raost captivating and sparkling beauty. Most of the women we saw were barefooted, and covered with a loose, black kind of toga. The married women wore blue, and the unmarried white veils. Our servant Asaph was much shocked at some of them doing us the courtesy to lift their veils, and said if his wife had done so to a Frank he would have whipped her on the spot These people think it more indecent for the women to expose their face than any other part of their person, as we often saw verified. " Why don't you scold them, Asaph, for their nakedness?" said we to our fastidious valet " Wherefore I scold them," he repUed ; " I no see their face." One of our party, before we left, adopted the Turkish Ui; 338 EGYPT. costume, by which he was enabled to pass his time much more agreeably, and hold familiar chit-chat with the groups in the street. It is the crowds of miserable, naked Arabs, not the Turks, or the ancient Coptic races of Egypt, that give to the living panorama passing before us in the streets of Cairo, such a squalid and disgusting-looking appear ance. They are debased to the lowest degree, destitute of all courage, and steal, rob, and lie, wherever they dare. When the women unveil, the charm of the eye is dispelled generally by an ugly, large mouth, which teeth of snowy whiteness cannot redeem. The costume, of the better, classes approaches the dress of the Turks, with the exception that the red fez cap is worn by the Arabs instead of a turban, which is rarely seen except among the older subjects of the sul tan. A vast proportion of the inhabitants appear to be reduced to the lowest state of indigence and misery, and are almost destitute of every article of clothing. We saw a great number of negroes, comprising all varieties, from the jet Nubian and Abyssinian to tbe flat-featured Ethiopian. There are but few fine buildings at Cairo. The tops of the houses are terraced, and in one part a cane-work roof is thrown over thera. This is the smokery, and a very pleasant place. In some of the better buildings we saw an old bearded Turk taking his siesta, and two of the ladies of his harem fanning him. As we passed the spacious palace of Ibjrahim Pacha, and the long line of white buildings connected with it, and which is the harem, we saw white veils and fancy sUk dresses flutter ing by the latticed windows, as the inmates wfere con stantly eying us from within with childish curiosity. They are ^aid to be generally ugly. EGYPT. . 339 We do not recoUect to have seen a single wheeled vehicle of any description, excepting one day a crazy one-muled machine, resembling one of our oldfashioned country chairs, which attracted more notice than its occupant who conducted it, and who proved to be a legitimate grandson of Mohammed Aii, the viceroy. It passed our door, as we, it appears by this, must have re sided in the court end of the town ; and when the young prince saw us emerge from our "palace," dressed in Eu ropean costume and about to mount our donkey cavalry, he bowed and smiled most graciously, and we, of course, most complaisantly returned the salutation. His royal highness was a young man, but quite corpulent and short in stature, and in appearance struck us as having evi dently a greater quantum of adipose than cerebral matter. Of aU the places we have ever visited, Cairo will be pre-eminent in our recollections, for the "compound of most villanous smells" which there perpetually sa lutes the olfactories, and the like of which was certainly never elaborated from any mortal place. To attempt to describe it would be vain and hopeless. It must be truly a plague to everybody ; and, in our opinion, if we had remained it would have terminated in a true plague with us. The odour is so pecuUar that it never wiU be erased from my raemory. It is undoubt edly produced by human effluvium, pent up and concen trated to its maximura intensity in this excessively dense population, and deriving its peculiar aroma from the great variety of human beings of different nations, races, ages, complexions, and habits, here congregated together frora surrounding provinces, and in nameless conditions of wretchedness and destitution. When we take into consideration this state of things, arising from the deplorably crowded and filthy condi- 340 EGYPT. tion of the poor of Cairo, it is easy for any one who has been an eyewitness to the circumstances, to perceive that a peculiar and specific cause exists in great abun dance for engendering, ab initio, a peculiar and specific disease ; and that disease, we think, might, a priori, from such data, be readily anticipated to be the Egyptian Plague ; the impure and poisonous air inhaled being, in our opinion, calculated, by its action on the brain and nervous system and absorbents, to develop in such subjects precisely that assemblage of syraptoras which are known to characterize that terrific typhoid pes tilence. The singular efficacy that the intermixture of human effluvia has in producing some particular morbid com bination capable of generating disease, is iUustrated fa miharly in what is noted by Sir Gilbert Blane of trans port-ships and vessels-of-war in perfect health meeting at sea and exchanging crews, and thereby immediately causing fevers to break out by this unusual alteration in the condition of the parties. A fortiori, then, must the highly-concentrated and widely-diffused virulent compound, derived from the breathing together in a -confined compass of so many varieties of human beings of depraved and impoverished constitutions as are found collected at Cairo, the mart or point of union for the caravans between Arabia and Persia, and aU Africa, render the atraosphere stiU raore poisonous, and more readily excite a typhoid and ma hgnant disease in such as come into the city from with out, and especially from a distance, and who have not been imraured in and accustomed to its pernicious qualir ties. The only part of Cairo which looks at all roomy and elegant, and reminds one of a European city, is the EGYPT. 341 Great Square, which on one side of it has stone buildings of modern construction and considerable grandeur, w^th a mosque or two, and their slender minarets, to set off the beauty of the place. Around it reside raost of the public functionaries and foreign diploraatists. Into a basin within this square the water, during the inundations of the Nile, is, by means of a connecting canal, conducted with great pomp and ceremony ; all the inhabitants participating in the festivity, and return ing their grateful thanks in cries of Allah ! Allah ! for this inestimable blessing from Heaven, which arrives opportunely in the month of August, when everything is arid and parched, and the streets and houses, and ev ery apartment are fiUed with dust Egypt, in truth, without its great and peculiar river, would be a vast uninhabitable desert. Unlike aU other rivers, it annually brings down, not only its vast volume of water, accumulated from the mountain torrents at its sources, to refresh the thousands on its banks, but also comes charged with the fertilizing material which gives such reraarkable luxuriance to the whole country. Thus have the inhabitants in their possession a self- fertUizing agent, which supersedes alraost the tillage of the husbandman, and which has made this kingdom, from time iraraeraorial, the rich granary of the Mediter ranean ; always furnishing, be the changes of the seasons what they may, a great surplus of agricultural products for export, beyond what is required for horae consurap- tion. When the great square is filled with water, it is covered with sraaU boats, which engage in aquatic sports for the amusement of the inhabitants. It may not be irrelevant to remark, that the saw on this square the house which Napoleon occupied as his 342 EGYPT. headquarters, also the palace of the pacha, and the spgt where General Kleber was assassinated. The torabs of the Caliphs and those of the Marae- lukes are a mile or raore from the city, on the way to the desert. They are among the raost interesting ob jects in the vicinity of Cajro, and consist of a series of lofty square edifices, with domes and minarets, and, from their lonely and sequestered position on the sand, seera pecuharly fitted as places of sepulture. The material is Umestone. Some of them are supported by marble columns, finely carved, which give an imposing aspect to these magnificent structures. They are in the light and graceful style of Saracenic architecture, and in a high state of preservation. The interior of each edifice is truly superb, contain ing rows of tastily-sculptured tombs, raised above the paveraent, with Arabic inscriptions on the tablets or headstones. Each building seems to be the mausoleura of a particular faraily, as we observed tombs of chUdren and adults as they were successively interred. That belonging to the present ruler, Mohammed AU, is by far the most magnificent ; and araong the torabs in this, not the least costly is the one appropriated to his son-in- law, AU Bey, whora he caused to be murdered. Space enough seems to be left significantly for others of his family whom he may wish to dispose of prematurely, and for his great self, when the Great Disposer shall see fit to call hira hence to render up a very large account of his doings. The Saracens appear to have been not less prodigal, and certainly, in conformity to their fondness for display, more ostentatious and orna mental in their arrangements for the dead than the an cient Egyptians. Even the very pavements of these edifices are in every part covered with the richest Per- EGYPT. 343 sian carpeting, particularly that belonging to the vice roy, giving an air of domestic comfort and even volup tuousness to the interior, which we certainly found no where in Egypt among the dwellings of the living. The mosques in Cairo are numerous and interesting, as in other Mohammedan cities. Some of them have a very ruined and ancient appearance, and are ornament ed with long corridors of granite columns, plundered, probably, from the religious temples of another and more ancient idolatry in the Egyptian cities of Hehopolis and Memphis. The most considerable mosques which we recollect are those of Azhar and Sultan Hassan. The latter seems to be far the most ancient, is adorned with Gothic sculpture, and situated near the gate of the Cas tle Hill. One of my companions, who had purchased and rig ged himself out in a full Turkish dress, was enabled, in this disguise, to smuggle himself into the mosques, which no Frank is permitted to enter. He described the inte rior of these edifices as most gorgeous, and reminding him of the chapel of St John at Malta. Pieces of gold, and silver, and ivory, and precious stones were worked in great profusion around several tombs. One contain ed a long extract from the Koran in letters of gold, work ed upon a ground of pearl that could be illuminated. These extravagant decorations, as well as the costly and voluptuous character of all Oriental luxuries, where they can be afforded, show that the proud Saracen, whatever the world raay think of his barbarism, consid ers his race, as the Chinese do theirs, and our Anglo- Saxon do ours, at the topmost pinnacle of huraan rank. Go where we raay, we find that others have as much national and individual pride and vanity as we have, and 344 EGYPT. that, however debased the intellect, these traits of the human heart never suffer any diminution. The Castle is situated upon a projecting and elevated point of rocks, forming a part of the range of the Mount ains of Mokattam, to the east of the city. This fortress may be deemed, in fact, a patt ofthe city, which it over looks and completely commands. Beyond the castle, and on a stiU more elevated part of the mountain, Mo- hamraed Aii has erected a considerable fort, where sev eral hundred men can be garrisoned. The ascent to the castle is by a flight of winding" stone steps, cut out of the rock, not so steep but that one may reach the surarait on his donkey without dismounting. The entrance into it is by a massive gateway. Within we find many build ings, some in ruin, and others in good preservation; araong them a neat palace, appropriated as the residence of the pacha himself The interior has the general ap pearance of ranges of barracks for the accoraraodation of soldiers. In the square is a sraall fountain, which produces a cool and refreshing vapour. ¦ Here we saw a nuraber of noble lions, confined with heavy chains about their necks. The view frora this elevation is coraraanding and beautiful. The Nile is seen winding its way frora the mountains to a long distance towards the Delta. The town of Old Cairo or Egyptian Babylon, and the Island of Rhoda lie below, along the river, and beyond, far in the west, are seen the great Pyramids, and also those of Sakkhara, To the left of these the sandy waste once the site of the famous city of Memphis, and still farther on the western horizon, the interminable Libyan Desert Within the castle is one of the wonders ofthe world, as we should denominate it. This is Joseph's Well, so called, excavated into the solid calcareous rock, to the EGYPT. 345 depth of 270 feet, that is, to the level of the surface of the NUe. The Herculean labour required for this work may be conceived by its dimensions as well as its depth. On approaching and looking into the yawning abyss, the sight is truly frightful to behold. The dark water can barely be discerned at its imraense depth below, and the diaraeter of the terrific and dismal-looking chasm is no less than 15 to 20 feet. And what is still more remarkable, the water on tasting we found to be so saline as to be quite brackish. It is constantly being drawn up by buckets raised by a wheel at the top, turned by a buffalo. A winding, spiral, descend ing stairway, six or eight feet in width, is cut into the rock outside ofthe shaft ofthe well, into which it looks by several openings like embrasures ; and on reaching to the depth of 150 feet, we find the staircase enlarged to a horizontal, circular space, where, lo ! indeed, and be hold ! we found another buffalo and his driver quietly turning another wheel, in the sarae raanner as the ma chinery on the top. The stairway is easy of ascent and descent, both to man and beast, and perfectly fi'ee from danger. A narrow stairway, unprotected and within the shaft, leads frora the lower buffalo station to the surface of the water, but was deemed by us too exposed and dangerous to venture upon its descent Whoever it was that excavated this enormous cylin drical shaft in the rock, with so much architectural pre cision and skill in engineering, deserves, in our estima tion, a wreath of fame as lasting as that of the builder of the Simplon or the constructor of the Pyramids. The water raised is conducted by pipes to various parts of the enclosure of the Castie, to irrigate patches of sod, and in a siege would be the only supply for the Xx 346 EGYPT. garrison. The brackishness of its taste raay be impu ted to saline matters associated with the rock. We were shown a large hall in one of the buildings of the fortress, in which it is said that the present vice roy convened his Mamelukes some years since, and, while regaling them with a repast, treacherously, by a strata gem and signal previously arranged, caused them all to be massacred by a body of soldiers concealed for that pur pose, some within the hall, and others within the walls of the fortress. Only one Maraeluke escaped, and the place where he dashed over the wall with his " Arab steed" was pointed out to us. Frora the height of the wall within the garrison and that of the precipice with out, we should deem the story perfectly incredible. Some distance below the Castle, and nearly opposite the Island oi Rhoda, is a considerable village on the raar gin of the river, which is supposed to be the site of Old Cairo, or what was called the Egyptian Babylon ; believed to have been built by the followers of the Persian con queror, Carabyses. Many of the buildings are used as houses of recreation and arauseraent by the wealthier classes of Cairo, who repair thither at the time ofthe rise of the Nile, and, no doubt, take as much pleasure in this their watering-place, as our people do in summer sea son in their resort to the seaside at Rockaway or Na- hant There are several mosques at this place, adorned, as usual, with minarets. There is also a small synagogue of the Jews, and the Roman Catholics have here a small hospital, occupied by the fathers of the Holy Land. We visited also a church here with spacious apartments, having an hospital and convent attached. This ecclesi astical establishment belongs to the Copts, who, as the ancient written or Coptic language of the country still EGYPT. 347 in use testifies, are believed to be the legitimate descend ants of the primitive Egyptians. The sect is now a modification of the Christian church, to which most of the Egyptians became con verted when that religion, through the power of the Roman empire, was spread over all the countries sub ject to its domination. We were received with great kindness by the holy fathers, who in their dress and ap pearance reminded us of the Christian priests in Greece. Among other places within the enclosure which they conducted us to, was the celebrated cave or grotto of Saint Sergius, in which it is stated that the Holy Fam ily, with the infant Jesus, reposed when they retired into Egypt. It is preserved with great care and sanctity. The exact spot where the Virgin and infant lay is particularly pointed out, and approached with great ven eration by this religious sect; and it is said that the fathers of the Holy Land are annually in the habit of paying a certain sura for the privilege of saying raass in this sacred place. It is beheved that the Roman Em press Helen, in her rehgious visits to Egypt, had this sanctuary beautifully adorned by masonry for its better preservation. It is now arranged in the forra of a sraaU chapel, with three corapartments, divided by two rows of colurans, and is entered from the church by a descent of eight or ten steps. In one of the divisions, though the .whole belongs to the Copts, aU Christians, without distinction, are permitted to worship, be their denomination what it may. At the end of the middle apartment is the cave or grotto, covered in the form of a smaU arcade with smooth stones or tiles. In another of the compartments is a baptismal font, in which the ceremony of immersing the child is still performed. 348 EGYPT. In the ride from the Castle to Old Cairo is a common, with sand-hills on either side, and a few smaU, indiffer ent buildings of modern , construction, with confused heaps of ancient ruins strewed about in every direction, evidently indicating the site of a forraer great city. The banks on the road appeared to be entirely composed, in fact, of fragments of ancient pottery and mortar, more than of sand, the crurabling remains, probably, of thou sands of years.- From Old Cairo we took boat and passed over to the Isle of Rhoda, which lies lengthwise in the middle of the Nile. On our way we looked out in every direction for the supposed spot where Moses is said to have been found in the bulrushes, but nothing that bore the least resemblance to a reed or canebrake was to be seen any where in this neighbourhood. The Island of Rhoda is a modern Egyptian curiosity. Its proprietor is Ibrahim Pacha, who, in pursuance with his taste for modern improvements in Christian coun tries, has had the whole island, which is some acres in extent, converted into an English garden of the most tasteful description imaginable ; looking, in truth, like enchantment, or an artificial oasis in the midst of the wild and desert scenery on the western side of the Nile. It is laid out with parterres of flowers, avenues of orna mental trees, shrubbery, and vines, gravelled walks, sha ven lawns, fishponds, and fountains, in a style commen surate in beanty and elaborate taste with any private or public garden we ever visited in France, or even in Eng land. Here we saw all the tropical trees and plants in beautiful perfection, beds of roses more fragrant than those of northern climes, and all the gorgeous and aro matic flowers pecuhar to hot latitudes, shaded by the fig, date, pomegranate, orange, apricot, banana, &c. In EGYPT. 349 the raidst of this picturesque scenery Ibrahira has erect ed a summer palace, with aU the appurtenances usual in Eastern countries. Here he frequently resides. The whole is under the direction of a thorqngb Eng lish gardener. It has been the fashion of Ibrahim and his father to avail themselves extensively of the advan ced state of civUization in England and France ; so rauch so in regard to France, that this power, through the free admission of their learned men of various pro fessions, had acquired such ascendency as to incur the jealousy of other nations. The viceroy, however, has by this time found that his liberal encouragement of foreigners has tended more to their benefit than his own ; for England and France have requited his hospitality by coolly cutting up his kingdom and amputating Syria from his possessions, to gratify their own constructive notions of the balance of power, and without so much as deigning to consult his convenience or wishes. We were permitted by the gardener to visit every part of the grounds, and afterward conducted by him to a tent, where we were kindly regaled with some of the best Sherry I tasted in Egypt, and a variety of fruits, cake, &c. We observed around the island numerous rude raachines worked by buffaloes, and designed for raising water frora the river to irrigate the grounds, a provision absolutely essential, as everything of the na ture of vegetation would otherwise be soon burned up by the excessive concentration of solar heat, not only by the direct rays of the sun, but through the increased pow er it acquires by reflection on the immense surface of the sands of the desert. We now made preparations for a caravan to visit the grand object which leads raost travellers to Egypt, the mighty Pyramids ; justly so denorainated as the wonder 350 EGYPT. of the world, and one of the greatest works of huraan art. After riding for sorae hours, we arrived at nightfall at the foot of the famous Pyramid of Cheops, the raost gigantic ctf those of Ghizeh, as the locaUty is caUed, and situated about ten railes west of the NUe. The three that raake up this group stand on the margin of the vast Libyan Desert, entirely surrounded by an ocean of sand. The route from Cairo is through a perfectly flat coun try, which is composed of a black alluvial soil, inter spersed with patches of sand, and having generally very little cultivation. On the right of the raaster Pyramid, at a distance of not more than half a mile, we discover ed a cluster of mud cabins, frora which issued, as we approached thera, a dozen to fifteen Bedouin Arabs. They carae down upon us with such fierceness and fleetness of foot, for which this rauscular people are so proverbial, that we could easily have iraagined that it was their intention to raake us captives; and had we not been inforraed by our Arab guide that it was always their usage, when the prospect of gain presented itself, to offer their services as aids to conduct travellers to the top of the Pyraraids, their savage appearance, with a loose mantle only flung over their shoulders, and their impetuous manner, would, at this lonely hour of twilight, have naturally awakened very serious apprehensions for our personal safety. Having dismounted frora our cavalry, the first busi ness was to search for a place of repose during the night In the extensive calcareous rocky formation on which the Cheops Pyramid stands, our Arab guide found a suitable tomb excavated on the east side, in which we accordingly took shelter. After striking a light, our at tendants arranged our provisions, and we partook of a catacomb supper, concluding which, we made our ar- EGYPT. 351 rangements for rising in the morning bj^ daylight. We then wrapped ourselves in our blankets and retired to bed. My companions selected for their couch several projections of rock, which probably had served as the resting-place of many a mumray in ages past By right of seniority, I was honoured with a wicker couch, con structed of palra branches, the only article of furniture in our sepulchral quarters. In various parts of the rocky foundation on this side, we observed numerous other ex cavations of a similar nature, each from ten to fifteen feet in length, and from six to eight in breadth and height. They all, no doubt, had served the purposes of tombs. We passed the night with our new Bedouin friends lying around the door ; but about their fidelity and trustworthiness we frankly own we had many qualms and misgivings, which rendered our sleep not a httle disturbed. We were summoned by our guides at early day dawn, and prepared for the ascent of the raighty structure, to witness the noble sight of the rising of the sun from the most elevated point of all the works of human art on earth. My companions, each provided with two Be douins, one on each side, commenced the arduous task, selecting for the route of their ascent, as is the usage, one of the angles of this quadrilateral structure. They reached the summit in from twenty minutes to half an hour, after a laborious effort, clambering up, as they were obliged to, upon the projecting blocks of stone, which furnished, however, a tolerable foothold. The Bedouins, as is proverbially known, possess a firmness of tissue, and activity of rauscular strength un surpassed by any race of people. This raay be iraputed to their wandering habits, constantly exercising the mo tive powers, and also to their frugal mode of life and 352 EGYPT. the drying nature of the atraosphere, giving a greater tension to the fibre ; hence their astonishing feats of strength and the fine syraraetry of their proportions. They clambered up the Pyramids with the nimbleness that the Chamois goat mounts the dizzy heights of the Alps. The manner in which they so essentially serve the traveller on the present occasion is thus : The lay ers or strata of the pyramid being nearly breast high, one Arab below receives the foot of the traveller, first on his knee, then on his shoulder, while the Arab on the ledge above seizes hira by the hand, and thus an ascent is effected. My comrades were fortunate enough to arrive at the highest point of elevation before sun rise, and had the long-wished-for gratification to see the glorious orb of day emerge, as it were, from the sand of the desert It had the fiery and blood-red appear ance, and distinct and well-defined outline of this lumi nary when rising through a misty atraosphere. My companions found the sumrait a flat surface of about thirty feet square. Here, in coraraon with all travellers, they inscribed their naraes, as perhaps Herodotus, Plato, Pythagoras, and Alexander, and even Sesostris, near 4000 years ago, had done before thera ; for they too, in their day, had come to visit and to gaze on this mighty pUe. Among the names actually found inscribed, there were several as early as the tenth century, and in every intervening period up to the present time. In modern days, not the least memorable are those of Napoleon, Baron Larrey, ChampoUion, &c. Chateaubriand's was not there. He visited Cairo, but not the Pyramids ! ! What an oraission for one imbued with the subUrae poesy and religious feehng of that iniraitable writer I His pyraraid is truly his own farae ; and such, in truth, appears to have been his own view of the matter ; for, EGYPT. 353 as an apology for not visiting this memorable spot, he requested a friend to inscribe his name there, " For I like," says he, " to fulfil all the little duties of a pious traveller." And here, also, on the topmost summit of mighty Cheops, one of my fellow-travellers, ray excellent friend Mr. Waring, had the kindness to cut deep into the stone ray initials, araong the thousands they found all around them. For my own part, I deemed it raost prudent, frora the raalady of the heart under which I had recently laboured, to forego the great delight it would have given me to have accompanied ray com panions to the surarait of this wondrous monument of man's power and pride. Yet, notwithstanding, was I enabled to look round to the far horizon where Libya and Arabia lie silent, and, while sitting on the desert siand, watched with intense interest the first glimraer- ings of the harbinger of day. There, with ray servant by my side, all nature lonely, vast, and mute around rae, with my watch in hand, I marked the second when the first beams of the rising sun glanced over the wide and dreary waste and gilded the gray sumrait of Cheops, reraaining until the entire broad disc had risen above the verge of the horizon ; the tirae occupied 'being four minutes and a half I reflected that perhaps on this spot, enraptured with the subliraity of the same scene which I was enjoying, may have stood, in the remotest era of Egyptian history, a Sesostris, a Pharaoh, a Ptolemy, a Moses, and a Jo seph, and, for aught we know, the Saviour ofthe world himself Here, I reflected to myself, had these majestic struc tures of huraan hands reraained, for thousands and thou sands of years, as the raighty sepulchral monument which Yy 354 EGYPT. told of the countless generations that had been swept down the tide of time into eternal forgetfulness, leaving but this solitary landmark, this vast funereal pile, which has alone survived aU other contemporary productions wrought by man, to commemorate at once the enduring power and divinity of his intellect, and the perishable nature of that mortality, which, in one long Une of mournful procession, generations after generations, from the days of the flood, had passed on, and was, and is, ever still passing on, to the darkness of the grave. Where are Persepolis, and Babylon, and where " Palmyra's palaces forlorn !" Where are Thebes and her hundred gates, and Mem phis, that first of cities, whose origin is even lost in the remoteness of time ! Their ruins are crumbled with the dust, and a thousand mighty cities, that have since sprung up, have also gone to the same tomb. But the Pyramids alone remain, the noblest, the greatest, the most enduring of human works, " the gloomy mansions of mystery and of wonder." After thus soliloquizing, I made the entire circuit, on foot, of the Cheops and his brother Cephrenes. In examining raore particularly the nature of the rock of which Cheops is composed, I found the base to consist of layers of massive blocks as high as my breast, of the geological formation known as tertiary limestone. It is easily worked, and is fiUed with myriads of minute shells ceraented together, and many of them in their natural form and condition, and so perfect as to be easily rec ognised. ,In mounting up a short distance, I found the blocks in the superincumbent layers to diminish gradu aUy in size, and the grain or texture of the stone to be raore compact and consolidated; and, from a portion EGYPT. 355 which ray friends brought rae frora the top, and which I have preserved with speciraens from other parts of this Pyramid, I remarked that the suramit layer, though of the same stone, was of a stUl finer texture, much , whiter, and totally free from all marine reraains, and ad mitting almost of a marbje polish. These vast raasses are aU connected together by a durable ceraent, harder than the stone itself, or anything of the kind of modern invention. The Cheops is a square of 746 feet, and in height it is 461, being, as is well known, the highest point yet attained in any human structure. It is believed to be 24 feet higher than the vast edifice of St. Peter's at Rorae, and 117 feet above the highest point of St Paul's at London. It raay be observed, however, that the Ca thedral of Strasbourg is now supposed to be next in height to the Cheops. In speaking of this vast pile of masonry, we have often stated that we believed the base of it to be equal in area to Lincoln's Inn Fields in Lon don, and that of the Place Vendorae at Paris. In viewing these raonuments, as they stretch along in a line on the margin of the desert, beginning with Che ops below in the north, and extending as far as the eye can reach in the south, to Sakkhara and Memphis, the idea frequently carae to ray raind that they are all that have survived the wreck of tirae, out of perhaps hun dreds of others now no longer existing, and that once belonged to and adorned, with the present structures, one vast graveyard — an ancient Pere la Chaise. This idea to us was strengthened by the fact, that, whatever questions raay arise as to the uses of those that are lar gest, there can scarcely be any doubt of the objects of those sraaUer pyraraids and tumuh which are scattered in wide proftision . in all directions, and which certainly 356 EGYPT. contained mummies of human beings. The catacombs we entered in these regions were filled with them ; aU of which seems to show that the Pyramids as well as the Catacombs were intended for receptacles as weU as memorials of the dead. It is remarkable that the door of entrance in Cheops, and the long gallery of 100 feet in length which we de scended, at an angle of about 30 degrees, frora this aper ture, are but three feet and a half square; so narrow, indeed, that we had to stoop to pass through them. What kept up our araazement, was to find the passage way lined throughout with broad blocks of sohd red granite of the finest polish. As far as we recollect, all the passage-ways and rooms into which they opened were lined in the sarae manner. At the end of the passage we entered, we came to a place of steep ascent, of eight or ten feet high, up which we were drawn by the Arabs. We then continued to ascend at about the sarae angle at which we had de scended on entering, and, after proceeding a distance of 100 feet, carae to a large charaber, which is 37 feet three inches by 17 feet two inches wide, and 20 feet high. It is lined throughout with highly-polished red granite, each stone reaching frora the floor to the ceiling, and both the latter coraposed of similar slabs. The nine massive slabs that forra the ceihng are raonoliths, each nearly 18 feet long, and the mystery is how they got there. In the middle of this spacious drawing-room, towards the west end, stands a sarcophagus of the same highly-polished red granite. The length is over seven feet, depth and breadth each over three feet One of the younger and more ardent raerabers of our party pen etrated some hundred feet farther into the intricate pas sages, and, from what he related, I did not regret that I EGYPT. 357 had not accompanied him. After reaching the termi nation of his rather hazardous exploration, he turned round in the dark cavern, and asked his two Arab guides what more was to be seen. They coolly replied, as they remained standing in the door, with torches in their hands, in a daring attitude, "Nothing more !" and then comraenced iraportuning for "Buksheech" or money. Not a raoraent was to be lost, and ray spirited friend, seeing his danger if he flinched, and being provided with a good cane, which he had on other occasions found most potent logic in the Bedouin vocabulary, began beating them most unmercifully, when they soon re turned to their duty, and conducted him safely out The sarcophagus was so large that it could not have been introduced through any of the apertures, but must have been placed there during the construction of the Pyramid. Though no hieroglyphics are found upon it, nor none have yet been discovered anywhere in or upon the Pyramids, I have no doubt, from the size and shape of the sarcophagus we saw, and its reserablance to those in which human mummies have been found, that it was intended for the same use, probably for the coffin of the reigning raonarch, as the sraaller Pyraraids were per haps destined for the reception of the next dignitaries in rank, and the Catacombs for that ofthe more common order of people. The Cheops contains 85 miUions of cubic feet, and there is full space enough, without weakening its struc ture, for 3700 chambers of equal roomy dimensions with the sarcophagus chamber described. Future explora tions may discover great numbers of these, in which event it must be concluded that it was a receptacle not for one king only, but for several dynasties. 358 EGYPT. In defiance of the alleged passion of the Egyptians for the idolatrous worship of animals, we must, until farther proof is given, discard the too common opinion that such vast structures as the Cheops were designed only to contain the mummy of an ibis or a monkey. In reviewing the immense constructions which the Egyptians everywhere consecrated to their dead; the costly sums expended in embalraing the body ; the care with which it was preserved for sepulture in rocky torabs, that it raight not be washed aWay by the inunda tions of the Nile ; the funereal rites and ceremonies that constituted the leading feature of all their religion, as im bodied and preserved to us in their thousand sacred tem ples, and in countless hieroglyphic and hieratic inscrip tions and pictorial embellishments on them, and on obe lisks, columns, statues, vases, sycamore and stone coffins, papyruses, and tablets, and on the interior of the cata combs ; it would seera that this remarkable people always had uppermost in their thoughts the image of death. That they lived only as it were to honour the dead, to keep before them, as they did in the rauraray placed in one corner of the roora at their feasts, this one domi nant thought, as the mournful rebuke to huraan vanity and passions, which taught the sublirae lesson that, with the grave and its sable cereraents and glooray sepulchres, there should not be associated the repulsive dread and horror with which we of modern tiraes are too apt to view thera, but that we should give a soleran grandeur to all that connects itself with this final terraination o our sufferings on earth, and read therein a guide lor our conduct in this existence, and the sacred and precious pledge of the boon of eternal happiness here after. The solemn pomp and pageantry with which the EGYPT. 359 Egyptians invested every circumstance connected with the transition of the soul from its living tenement to a state of eternal existence, is intimately interwoven with and imbodied in their beautiful mythology, which, it has been truly said, the Greeks surreptitiously borrowed, but greatly embellished. The sarae elevated conceptions which entered into their suraptuous sepulchres to the dead, are more fully evolved and more intelligibly ex plained in their mythological allegories, of which none could be more philosophical, beautiful, and consonant even with our Christian notions of to-day, than that which, on their tablets and papyruses found in their tombs and coffins, represents the soul of the virtuous raan in another world, under the image of a reaper in a wheat-field, gathering with his sickle the harvest of his good actions on earth. All the syrabols, too, of their mythology, portray sublirae generaUz ations of thought on the subjects of eternity, tirae, truth, creation, and im mortality. It is a mistaken notion that the religion of the Egyptians is to be sought for in what has been call ed their superstitious idolatry for quadrupeds, birds, rep tiles, insects, &c. This never debased their pure ideas on the subject of the imraortality of the human soul. The worship of animals, as it has been miscalled, was, in our opinion, nothing more than their heraldry and emblazonry, such as ever exists among the rudest as well as most polished people. Comraunities, cities, dis tricts, and kingdoras, as well as individuals, had then, as now, their shields, their crests, their banners, hatchets, and escutcheons, to which they were religiously attach ed, and under which they fought as their household gods and hereditary honours. What if the Egyptians, to re verse the order of tirae, were to stigmatize as the theol ogy of Great Britain, the more than religious pertinacity 360 EGYPT. with which she protects, with royal compulsory edicts and patents, the peculiar symbols and shields, often more ludicrous than carved or sculptured beetles and toads, the highest titied honours that a monarch can bestow upon his subjects ] And do not such symbols, also, in our own days, ever adorn the coffins and effigies of such as possess them 1 If they were evidences of a depraved taste under Sesostris or Psammeticus, so are they under a Greek, or Roman, or Persian king; under a Charle magne, a Coeur de Lion, or a Victoria. In the multitude of speculations which for 2000 years have occupied the minds of those who would clearly survey the purpose and intent of those vast and ponder ous piles, the Pyramids, ingenuity has been put to the rack, and the subject attenuated into almost poetical fancies. Science, too, in her pride iraagined that these mighty structures were reared solely for the purpose of exhibiting multiples of the cube, or that, from their nice adjustment to the cardinal points of the compass, and the supposed inchnation of sorae of the passages towards the Polar Star, that their object was pui"ely astronomi cal. As Sir Humphrey Davy's chemistry was called into requisition to dissolve the cementing raaterial which glued together the incinerated rolls of papyrus frora Her culaneura, so was Sir John Herschel's profound knowl edge of the constellations appealed to, to deterraine the bearing of the pyramidal passages upon astronomical uses, and which he ascertained to be totally incompati ble with the calculated orbits of the heavenly bodies. It is evident, from the absence of all hieroglyphic in scriptions in and upon these raonuments, that their period of construction goes back far beyond that most ancient species of writing, and, therefore, doubtiess. beyond all known historic records. The received notions, that the E G Y P T. 361 two principal Pyramids were built by King Cheops and his brother Cephrenes, must be deemed without any just authority to support it. Nor can we concede to the ingenious suggestion of Professor Anthon, that they were built by the Israelites during the hundred years of their more severe captivity in Egypt. The meaning of the name, according to De Sacy, is a sacred place, or edifice, set apart from common use. The rock of which they are composed was not, as is the coraraon opinion, brought from the distant mountains of the Upper Nile, but quarried frora the calcareous stratifications on the spot Having now devoted as rauch tirae as we could spare to an examination of these justly-entitled wonders of the earth, we proceeded to inspect, at a short distance frora the Cheops, that not less extraordinary production of colossal sculptural art, the Sphinx. It raay be considered as an enorraous bust, far sur passing in magnitude all ideas that were ever conceived of gigantic proportions of the human forra. Though it is apparently buried deep in the sand up to the middle of the chest, the height from that point to the top of the head is, we should judge, not less than thirty feet. It is believed to be cut out of one entire block of stone, and is of the same calcareous nature as the Pyramids. The face is rather oval than round, and the features well forraed, without any expression of severity, but, on the contrary, mild and benignant Though the physiognoray has been caUed Nubian, we discovered nothing in it that re sembled what we understand, and everywhere saw, as that of the African negro. It was uncovered for a short tirae of its sand by the great exertions of Captain Cavig- lia, and the body connected with the huraan bust found to be,' as was anticipated from the frequent bas-reliefs Zz 362 EGYPT. and paintings of this fabled aniraal, that of a lion couchant, whose dimensions may be estimated from the length of one of the paws, which was fifty feet, and the distance from the breast to the taU 125 feet ! On the paws, and also upon the granite altar, and upon the remains of a smaU teraple, both of which were found iinraediately in front of the stone platform on which the sphinx rested, were seen beautiful hieroglyphics, and also sorae Greek inscriptions laudatory of the eraperors Claudius and Nero. The Greeks and Romans visited the ancient wonders of Egypt with the same keen curiosity that modern trav ellers visit their ruins to-day. As we carve our names and write our verses upon the Coliseura or the Parthe non, so did they upon the Sphinx and the Pyraraids, and so probably will the generations hereafter record theirs upon the Arc de Triomphe and Column of the Place Vendome at Paris, and on the yet- to-be projected structures which our own young country will, no doubt, in due course of time, transmit to the millions yet un born of a remote posterity. What the particular design of this reraarkable pro duction was, is as inscrutable as the raystery which yet enshrouds the individual history of almost every one of the thousand raonuraents that are scattered over Egypt They still require a clearer solution of the yet untrans lated, though clearly legible, hieroglyphics that raost of thera are covered with, but which have never yet been satisfactorily deciphered, spite of the luminous gleams of light thrown upon their meaning by the astounding discovery of the supposed alphabet of those symbols by Dr. Young and the illustrious ChampoUion. . One ingenious opinion of the object of the Sphinx is, that it is a hybrid representation of a female and the EGYPT. 363 body of a Uon, and was intended as a religious monu ment, dedicated to the passage of the sun in the zodiac, from the consteUation Leo to that of Virgo, and when the Nile inundates its banks. All, however, that was uncovered at the time of our visit was the head, neck, and shoulders, which we should certainly judge, looking at it anatomically, was intended, so far at least, as a part of the trunk of a man. Having got through with this examination, we re turned to our tomb to take sorae refreshraent, and, not wishing to pass another night here under the guardian ship of our Bedouin friends, we mounted our cavalry, and proceeded over the undulating sandy waves or ridges of the desert for some miles, to a small cluster or settle ment among palm-trees, and called Sak-Khara, The whole of this distance on our right was strewed with smaller pyraraids and turauli in great abundance, con- firraing the idea we have already expressed, that this part of Egypt, as far as the eye could reach on the raar gin of the great Libyan Desert, was literally the kingdom of the dead and one vast burial-ground. On our way thither, of all the hot and oppressive rides I ever took, this one, short as it was, surpassed. Though I had an umbrella, it seemed to be but a poor protection to the darting, burning rays, and we expected to be lit erally roasted alive before we reached our place of des tination. The reflection frora the sand was so intense that it was almost absolutely blinding. Such was the pain and suffering I experienced, that I took frora ray pocket a pair of double green spectacles, provided for the purpose. The relief it afforded was so iraraediate and astonishing, that I felt the raost irresistible propen sity to sleep; and such was the overpowering influence of this somnolency, that I several times caught myself 364 EGYPT. napping and falling from my horse ; insomuch that I was obliged to take my specs off, in order to preserve my riding position by tbe renewal of the pain and suf fering ; such was the hazardous experiment of this me chanical anodyne. Who can wonder, then, especially when to these cir cumstances of extreme heat is superadded, as often hap pens, clouds of fine sand raised by the winds, that Egypt should be the prey to epidemic Opthalmias of the most destructive kind. We were not, therefore, surprised to find that, wher ever we journeyed in this country, inflammation of the eyes, and all its terrible woes, were the prevailing class of maladies among all orders of the people. By the tirae that we arrived at Sakkhara we were so overcorae and exhausted by the heat, that we gladly sought shelter under the shade of the ¦palm-trees, where we laid ourselves upon the sand for sorae time to repose. Being now a little recruited, we proceeded to the Cat acomb of the Birds, by the side of the village, in the midst of a sand-bank. We arrived at a small aperture, which was nearly closed by the sand, insomuch that our Arabs were obliged to remove this irapediraent with their hands before an entrance could be effected. We now coramenced the exploration by crawling in upon our hands and knees, preceded by our two Arab guides. The passage is not raore than three feet in di ameter — and gradually descended for some distance, until it conducted us to a large chamber or species of well, into which we were let down by our attendants. Here, in every direction, on shelves, were regularly arranged, as bottles in a wine vault, countless numbers of earthen jars, each covered with a lid, and closely cemented with mortar. EGYPT. 365 Our position, however, much excited as was our curi osity, forced itself upon our notice as one that could by no raeans be considered desirable. It was, in truth, a dark and most pokerish-lookiag place, and one in which it was very easy to imagine that we raight, by some sudden act of treachery, have been buried alive ; and if not placed upon the shelves as specimens for future anti quarians, been consigned less ceremoniously to the com panionship of incalculable quantities of broken jars and rubbish at the bottom of the dismal-looking receptacle into which we had been brought. The jars upon the shelves, upon exaraining them, were observed to be in an entire state of preservation, as if deposited yesterday. They lie horizontally too, like wine-bottles, tier upon tier, with the covers turned to the outside ; and it would seem, from the fact of re moving two or three, that there were similar ones behind, arranged in the same manner. The Arabs state that, even when hundreds are thus successively taken out, the same appearance of other rows behind is seen ; by which it would appear that these now-subterranean passages must be almost interniinable, and that the chambers are fiUed with thousands of these jars. Pas sages are seen going off in different directions, which doubtless* lead to other chambers filled in the same raanner. Hundreds and thousands of fragments of bro ken jars are scattered about the desert for some distance around the entrance of this catacomb. With the help of our Arabs, we brought out from the catacorab a number of thera entire. I sat myself down upon the sand, and broke open several for closer inspection, readily antici pating what they contained. Notwithstanding the ut most care which I took in breaking them, the mummied bird within, which in every instance was the famed Ibis, 366 EGYPT. carefully wrapped in its grave-clothes, crurabled, with its investitures, alraost iraraediately, when exposed to the air, into an irapalpable powder. Those which ap peared of a firraer texture, it was also found, crurabled in the same manner with almost the shghtest touch. Two or three were, apparently, so sohd, that I congratulated myself that I had secured the bones of the legs in a beautiful state for my rauseura ; but upon atterapting to envelop thera, with the raost deUcate manipulation that I was capable of in order to transport them, they also, before the process was finished, dissolved into hundreds of pieces, and ray hopes of success entirely vanished. I have, however, the satisfaction to say, that I have in ray possession one of the jars frora this catacorab, vvhich is in an entire state, and unopened. Though I could scarcely be said to have had an opportunity to ascertain precisely the zoological character of the tenants of these earthen coffins, I should judge by the beak and legs that they did not differ materially from the heron of our own country. The size of the jar which I have is about fourteen inches in height, and about six to eight in di ameter. The top is broadest, and from thence it tapers gradually to the bottom, being, in fact, an inverted cone. This was about the diraensions of all that we saw. The raaterial is of coarse red earthenware. The^birds have a faint mumray odour, but their linen swatning has no biturainous appearance, though we have no doubt that the feathered animal upon whora such careful sepulchral honours were conferred, had gone through the regular process of embalming. The ceraent of the Ud to the jar, or the luting, in aU the speciraens we saw, was of lime mortar, and not the mud of the Nile, as has been erroneously stated by some. In addition to what has already been observed on the EGYPT. 367 subject of living and posthuraous honours paid by the Egyptians to raany inferior aniraals, there is nq^doubt that this reverence was enhanced by the actual utility of several species of them. Thus the ichneumon de stroyed the eggs of the crocodUe ; and Josephus relates of Moses, that, in leading his array into Ethiopia, he raade use of the ibis to devour the swarms of serpents that infested his passage. Even in Thessaly, in Greece, kiUing one of these birds is said to have been punish able as homicide ; and, to anticipate our narrative, we saw, in the interior of Asia Minor, that the stork is do mesticated with great care, doubtless for sorae useful purpose, Frora iraraeraorial tirae, the usefulness of the dog, and cat, and of certain species of birds, has always been held in great regard, as iraportant in our domestic econoray; and raodern researches in ornithology and entomology have furnished sounci arguments in favour of giving protection by law to nuraerous famihes of the feathered tribe, hitherto deemed annoyances, but now found to be of inappreciable value, by selecting for their food certain descriptions of insects that prey upon the grain-fields and fruit-orchards of the husbandman. Frederic the Great, as we saw at Potsdam, appro priated a special burial-ground beneath his palace win dows for his favourite dogs. Even the great bard of the North, Sir Walter Scott, had a monument erected at Abbotsford to his faithful dog; and Byron travelled with his menagerie. Then why should not the Egyptians, whose absorbing and dominant thought ever appeared to be to bestow almost imperial honours upon the dead, have indulged this ru ling passion in regard to their inferior animals, many of whora, as history inforras us, rendered thera such sub stantial service ; which was probably, also, another most 368 EGYPT. plausible motive for the homage shown to them, by adopting them, as we have supposed, for their general or local heraldic insignia. As to the much-talked-of idea that this great people beUeved that the huraan soul actually resided in or passed through the bodies of va rious aniraals, by a process termed metempsychosis, or transmigration, and that they therefore actually wor shipped such animals as deities, the supposition, how ever accordant with the religion of some Eastern na tions, in our opinion has no authentic proof to sustain it, and is at war with the grand and imposing concep tions which reign throughout the beautiful philosophy of their whole system of mythology. On the other side of the sand-hill, which has covered up the catacomb of birds, and the rocky ridge in which it is excavated, are found extensive Catacombs for huraan beings. The one w^ entered was sufficiently capacious to admit "of our standing erect in it; and the passage, which was an arched excavation, a tunnel in the solid rock, slightly descending, continued of the same diraen sions as far as we went Our Arabs, who had preceded us, soon retumed back with rauraraies in their arras, which they brought out for our inspection. We made a hasty post-mortem exaraination of these anatomies on the spot, and each selected, with the commendable spirit of an antiquarian, some favourite portion of the subject to preserve as a relic. One took for his share of the spoils a gracefully-turned arm, another a delicate hand, not less elegantly proportioned. After thus aUowing my companions an opportunity to indulge their taste, which I had a right to do as the Prosector in this Egyptian clinique, of which they were junior raerabers, I content ed myself with an exquisitely-formed leg and foot, which I deemed to belong, most unquestionably, to a lady of EGYPT. 369 rank, a brunette belle of 4000 years ago, that might pos sibly have gallopaded in the royal saloons of Sesostris or Pharaoh, or, peradventure, in those of Moses himself We now took a view of this extended, sand-cover ed, rocky ridge, as it stretched away far to the south around Memphis, and which we observed to be stUl studded in every direction along the margin of the vast desert with its hundred pyraraids. Though not a vestige remains, if it be not the gigantic Sphinx, of the mighty city of Memphis, which was supposed to have been lo cated in this part of the desert, a passing remark is due to the memory of this wonderful capital of Egypt, and by many believed to have been the raost ancient city of the world, and the largest that ever existed. It covered a great many mUes in extent along the west bank of the Nile, and is supposed to have been built by Menes, the first mortal king of Egypt, who succeeded to the reign of the gods 2000 years B.C. He was contemporary with Yao, the first emperor of China. Herodotus saw Memphis in its grandeur about 400 B.C., and says it Was built on the ancient bed of the Nile, the river hav ing been turned off for that purpose to the east by its founder, who erected an immense embankment or dam to protect the city from inundation. This city surpass ed Thebes in extent, and Was the principal capital. It was adorned with raagnificent temples, of which the most celebrated were those to Vulcan and Venus ; also colossal statues and sphinxes, which latter Strabo saw (as we had seen, the only one now remaining), also even then partially buried in sand at the time of his visit, and when this vast city, sacked by Cambyses and other conquerors, and reduced to a mass of ruins, had nearly disappeared from the earth. The temple of Vul can stood near the present site of Sakkhara, and in A A a 370 EGYPT. front of its porch were colossal statues 45 feet high/ made each out of a block of red granite. Even in the twelfth century one of these still existed ; and so late as that period, such was the extent of the ruins, that to travel over them required half a day's journey in every direction. This strongly leads to the inference that the entire chain of near 100 pyramids which we beheld was once a part of ancient Memphis, more probably the imraense ceraetery in which its mUlions of dead, who once hved, and rejoiced, and worshipped here, are now inurned. What sublime conceptions such reflections bring to our thoughts of the matchless power and splen dour of ancient Egypt ! We now cast a farewell glance over the ever-memo rable region of pyramids and catacombs that are spread along the desert south in lonely and sUent grandeur, but eloquent of the wondrous deeds of the mighty people who once existed here. We bade adieu forever, per haps, to those solemn monuments, which have survived so many human generations, and which wiU, in like manner, go far, far down in the stream of time beyond the liraited space where we and all our conteraporaries shall soon arrest our footsteps. We thought of the ini tials which we had here left on the surarait of Cheops, mingled with those of Napoleon, and, peradventure, Alexander, and Carabyses, and a host of other immortal names : humiliating comraentaries on the vanity and mu- tabihty of all earthly things, and of the childlike solici tude with which the greatest conquerors of the earth, alike with the most obscure individuals, had here eager ly sought, as it were, to carve in advance, upon this great mausoleum of the human race, their own post obit in scriptions : unwittingly forgetting that, while so doing, they were acknowledging that, with aU their boasted EGYPT. 371 power and pomp, the tree of death was irrevocably planted within thera, and that their lives, and their rich es, and their thrones and crowns, must perish all before a mightier Lord of Hosts, ajid be forever forgotten. Sorae farther reflections suggested themselves before taking leave of these remarkable objects. That the Egyptians revered their dead, or naturally, as might be supposed, with a deep-thinking people like themselves, framed upon that great and mysterious event which forms the dark and impenetrable bourne between life and eternity, the whole superstructure of their religion, is evident frora the fact, that the bodies of the poor as well as the rich were alike preserved frora decay by every method of erabalraent with aroraatic gums, rainer- al tar and asphalt, natron or soda, that their alchemy supplied them with. The rich and exalted were satu rated with solutions of costly myrrh and frankincense, and the Coraraon people salted down with the cheaper ingredients of soda and nitre ; and thus, while; in addi tion to these laborious processes, higher and raore en during honours were lavished upon the meraories of the deceased by costly coffins of the indestructible syca more, and safcophagi, and structures excavated out of solid rock, from the mighty pyramid to the humble cat acorab ; these arrangeraents aU happily contributed, and were no doubt so intended, in the necessary exposure of the body during the inundations, to the prevention of any of those deleterious exhalations frora aniraal de composition which might predispose to the production of fatal diseases. The same reasoning, so far as salu brity is concerned, will apply to the dead of all animals ; and Dr. Pariset even has contended, with much force of argument, that the plague never appeared in Egypt untU 372 EGYPT. the practice of embalraing fell into disuse, and the at mosphere thereby becarae impure. After returning to Cairo and recruiting, we set out upon our donkeys to visit the last lion (not sphinx) to be seen in the neighbourhood of this capital. This was the" ancient city of HeliopoUs, so often mentioned in Grecian history, and by the Egyptians caUed On or Aun, which was situated upon the edge of the Syrian desert, a few railes to the northeast of Cairo. This ride was particularly agreeable, after our trackless path over the hot and dreary wastes of Libya, upon the other or western side of the river, as we now passed several cultivated fields, and were often shaded on the road by the branching palra, the fig, and other trees. Frora the aspect of this region, which is even now fertile and producing good crops, we could ratioUaUy explain why, in such an ocean of sterility as most of Egypt is, this was so celebrated for its abundance of good things as to be denorhinated the land of milk and honey, or the Go shen of scriptural tiraes. Hehopolis was one of the most renowned of capitals, and was in such high repute for its learned institutions . many centuries before the Christian era, that Moses chose it for his favourite residence. The iraraortal Plato, too, carae from Greece and studied here for three years ; and Herodotus and other distinguished foreigners, following his example, also travelled to this remote city, and here completed their education. Its people were deemed the wisest and most ingenious of Egypt Many believe it coeval with Memphis in its antiquity; for Strabo, when he visited it near 1900 years ago, only saw it in ruins. Who could realize to himself, that, in the quiet green fields near which now stands the httle vUlage of Matarieh, not a vestige is to be found of the EGYPT'. 373 former grandeur that once covered this spot, but one sol itary and magnificent Obelisk, which, more marvellous StiU, no mortal hand, in aU that long lapse of time, has had the hardihood to desecrate. It is all that is left ; but its taU, pointed, and noble form ; its massive, solid texture of red granite, covered throughout with hiero glyphics, and the whole in most exquisite preservation, as if just escaped from the skilful chisel of the artist, is, though alone, and the only relic that reraains, worthy to be the chronicler of the glories that once adorned the capital to which it belonged. This obelisk is perhaps the most beautiful in all Egypt ; far more so. We thought, than that which has been called Cleopatra's Needle, at Alexandria. It is about 70 feet high, of one entire shaft of stone, and eight feet square at the base, the lower part of which yearly feels the inundating wave of the Nile, as appears by the mark left upon it about five feet above the ground. The constant action of the water on the surface of its base, though it has been thus repeated, perhaps, for five or six thousand years, has not made the slightest im pression upon the ever-during granite, if we except the discoloration of the mark itself, showing what power the primitive rock of Egypt has had in resisting the de cay of time. The monumental reraains, in truth, all over Egypt, most plainly show, that, however other parts of the globe, and sorae countries on the immediate bor ders of the Mediterranean, may have been convulsed and changed by earthquakes, or floods, or the encroachment of the sea, Egypt must have enjoyed a long and silent reign of thousands of years of undisturbed and uninter rupted quietude and exemption from elemental influ ences from the very earliest period of her existence. Not an obehsk or column would appear to have been 374 EGYPT. thrown down, or even canted from its base, by any ter restrial commotion during this prolonged space of time. But what raighty and destructive moral, political, and social revolutions and earthquakes, what devastating and scourging wars and pestilences, have passed over this devoted land, the melancholy obelisk and the Pyramid, standing in its lonely grandeur, but 'too well and too loudly proclaim ! In the successive and desolating invasions of Egypt, first by the Shepherd Kings, then by that cruel monster Cambyses, and afterward by Greece and Rome, em bracing a space of more than 1500 years, the world have to be thankful that those conquerors, often as they razed noble cities to the earth in the fiery and tem pestuous track of their depredations, had not yet discov ered the terrific agent of gunpowder, which would seem to be alraost the only power that could have demolished into atoms the irapenetrable structure of the obelisks and Pyraraids. Thus have they survived ; and, fortunately, with the invention of this potent instrument of death, has sprung up necessarily a better and more huraane feeling araong the nations of the earth, and a new ex tension of the lease on tirae been obtained for the secu rity of these sacred works of huraan art Near the viUage of Matarieh we visited the celebra ted tree under which, it is said, Joseph and the Virgin, with the infant Saviour, reposed on their flight into Egypt. It is what is now called Pharaoh's fig-tree, and not the sycamore of our country. It is in a small en closure, and near it runs the stream, the water of which came so opportunely to assuage the thirst of the Holy Faraily in their perUous pilgriraage. This sacred spot appears to have been visited for raany centuries by aU Christian pUgrims ; and many of the devotees, anxious EGYPT. 375 to leave a memorial of their piety, have inscribed their initials, to the number of several hundreds of naraes, upon various parts of the trunk and branches of the massive and aged tree. We, in common with a few of our countrymen who may have wandered thus far, with our accustomed practice, carved there also our naraes ; and, by raeans of one of our travelling iraplements, I reraoved a knotty portion of the rough bark, which I afterward had carved, on my return to France, into a small pyramid, as the raost suitable shape in which to preserve this precious reUc. Whatever raay be the pre tensions of this tree to the character it has obtained, it is very certain that it has for ages acquired a great de gree of sanctity, and been scrupulously respected both by Turk and Christian. Having thus corapleted the tour around Cairo, we lastly directed our attention to its professional charac ter and diseases. With the very polite and kind atten tion of Dr. Pruner, the physician-in-chief of the central hospital of Cairo, and high in the confidence of Mo- haramed Aii, I had every facility furnished me of be coming acquainted with the peculiarity of Egyptian diseases, and of examining the medical school and the hospitals of the metropolis. Amid the political and raoral degradation of the Egyp tians, we were delighted to witness the attempts at the forraation of a medical school, and the estabhshment of well-educated medical men among them. The counte nance and protection given by the Pacha of Egypt, Mo- hararaed All, to Europeans to reside in the country, is everywhere apparent French, Germans, Italians, and English are to be met with, fiUing important and responsi ble stations in the army, navy, medical school, and about the court and person of this celebrated Eastern despot 376 EGYPT. Whether this be for selfish or humane objects, is a ques tion which must naturally arise in the mind of every observer who travels in that country ; and there are few, we think, who will not ascribe it to the former. But a ' great general good to the Egyptians must nevertheless flow from this almost only wise policy of their cruel and hard master. Frora a fear, too, no doubt, that a sufficient induce ment could not be held out for foreigners of raerit to take up their residence in this benighted country, the pacha has from tirae to time been in the habit of send ing to the medical schools of Europe, and particularly of France, a number of young Arabs, to be educated at the expense of the government In this way a ready communication is had with the foreign practitioners and the native eleves of the country, who assemble in the hospitals and medical schools, until the forraer have ac quired a sufficient knowledge of the Arabic language to impart instruction in the native tongue. In this way we have witnessed the lessons of the professor conveyed to the pupU by a young Egyptian physician who had been educated in Paris, French being the language used for this purpose. The Arabic, as I was informed by the professors, is extremely difficult to be acquired ; and those only who had resided in the country for eight or ten years were able to read it, and, above all, to speak and understand it sufficiently well to hold intercourse with the natives, and impart instruction directly to the pupils. The medical school of Egypt, which for some years: has been located at Abou-Zabel, is now removed to jB*- hekie, in the immediate vicinity of Cairo, the former being too remote from the capital to enable the profes sors, from their necessary duties in private practice, to do fuU justice to the institution. The school makes EGYPT. 377 part of a large and weU-arranged mUitary hospital, beau tifully and pleasantly situated on the eastern bank of the Nile, in the suburbs of Cairo. This hospital con tained 1300 patients when we visited it. The iraraedi ate connexion of the raedical school with this large hos pital, together making one great edifice, is, in my opin ion, an admirable arrangement for the benefit of the pupils, and weU deserving of imitation in other and more enlightened countries. The lecture-rooms of the pro fessors are all exceedingly well arranged, and the am phitheatre for anatomy is particularly well constructed, with an abundance of light from a cupola on the top. A large and well-arranged pharmacy, with specimens of every kind of doraestic and foreign drug, while it abun dantly supplies medicines to the wants of the hospital, serves as a raeans of instructing the students. A large laboratory is connected with it, in which the new chem icals, such as alkaloids and others, are prepared, to an swer the demands of the physicians, and, at the same time, extend information to the pupils, by making them acquainted with chemical pharmacy. The nuraber of pupils attending the lectures at the time of our visit was 260. They are not only attend ants upon the lectures ofthe professors, but residents in the hospital, in order to observe the treatment of the patients, and to becorae familiar with the almost endless forms and features of disease. They are aU educated at the pubhc expense, have their quarters in the hospital, where they eat and sleep, and are obedient to a regular mihtary and raedical dis cipline, and rank as sous aides in the surgical staff of the array. Here they are compeUed to remain from three to four years, in the constant pursuit of their studies, and in the regular observance of disease, at all times obedi- Bbb 378 EGYPT. ent to the caU of their superiors, and ready to adminis ter to the wants ofthe patients. The beautiful order and methodical arrangements, as weU as neatness, in every part of this establishment surprised and delighted rae. It unites the activity of the French with the cleanliness and good system of the Gerraan hospitals, and therefore raay be said to have the exceUence of both. The anatoraical rauseura is very respectable, and will serve as the nucleus of a good collection. It consists mostly of bones, casts, and wax raodels, with the excel lent tributary aids of parts, and the whole subject, of the ingenious invention of Dr. Azoux. From the expense of alcohol, and the great waste, owing to the excessive heat and dryness of the climate of Egypt, few or no specimens of morbid parts can be preserved as wet preparations. They are compelled to resort to draw ings and wax models to perpetuate their similitude. The apparatus for the iUustration of the physical sci ences is neat, and sufficiently araple. The Civil Hospital is situated in the city of Cairo, and is located in a spacious building, but recently one of the palaces of Mohararaed All. It is placed very favourably for good air, near the principal square of this very curious and truly Oriental city. It is an adraira- ble transfer of the noble and superfluous domain of a single individual to humane and charitable purposes, to the wants, and necessities, and the afflictions of the poor and the diseased. As the medical officers informed me, it had only been established about one year, and was but a beginning of an asylum and a home for the suffer ing and the sick. It contained between two and three hundred patients, besides apartments especially appropriated for a lying-in EGYPT. 379 establishment. Although there is a male and female department in the sarae building, we found the peculiar Eastern vigUance and harera-like care that the feraales shaU not even be seen by the male patients. On no pretence whatever is any male admitted into the female part of the hospital unless he be a professional raan, and then he raust accorapany a medical officer of the estab lishraent, who alone has authority to introduce hira. Connected with this Maternite is a school for the ed ucation of young women, to fit them properly to be ac coucheuses or sages femmes. It has a well-organized class of young feraales, from the age of fifteen to twenty, under the care of a French professor, aided by a young Arab, whose acquaintance with the French language enabled the pupils to comprehend readily the lessons of the principal The class consisted, on the day of our visit, of sixteen. They were dressed as Europeans, were very neat and respectable in their appearance, and exhibited various tints and shades of colour, frora the tawny Arab to the jet-black Nubian and Abyssinian. They were all asserabled in the class, at their lessons, when we entered, and were receiving instruction frora the professor. Their note-books were in Arabic and French. I was requested to test the practical knowl edge of one of thera on the manikin. One, the raost convenient, and as black as ebony, was requested to come forward. Different questions in French were put through the young Egyptian, and on the machines the pupU proved by her manipulations with the foetus that she not only coraprehended perfectly the question, but that she understood well the subject When their knowledge is thought sufficient, they are permitted to exercise the art upon the patients of the institution. In this way, after a residence of some time 380 EGYPT. in the hospital, subjected to regular disciphne and in- straction, they become very competent practitioners of this branch of the profession. They informed me that aU of them were educated at the expense of the Pacha ; that his object was to place thera in the hareras, and thereby dispense with raale obstetricians ; and that Mo hararaed All, frora tirae to tirae, was in the habit of pur chasing young feraales at the slave-market at Cairo, and placing them in the maternite for instruction. In this way he kept up a constant supply for the wants of the different harems of his family and favourites. This estabhshment is undoubtedly founded upon the liberal and huraane plans of the French, who annually educate and send forth a large nuraber of well-instructed and corapetent young women, not only in every direc tion through their own provinces, but into other coun tries. It is to be hoped that in Egypt a raore enlarged and raoral view will be taken of this systera, and, ere long, that its salutary and benign influence will be ex tended far beyond the gardens and walls of the hareras, and that the alraost countless poor may receive sorae- thing in return for what they labour so hard to support. Every facility seeraed to be afforded in this obstetric school, in preparations, apparatus, and instruraents, as weU as the living subject, to raake the pupils corapetent and useful practitioners. In Egypt we found the Lepra to assurae the sarae fea tures, and to be treated in the same way by the Euro pean practitioners as it was in Greece. Syphilis, in aU its forms, is also very prevalent in both these countries, but is a much more mild disease, and yields more readily to remedies than in Europe or America. The dry and arid chmate of Egypt, whUe it seems to render these diseases more mild, and particularly EGYPT. 381 syphilis, produces in the Arabs a variety of obstinate cutaneous affections. We saw raany cases of the dif ferent forras of Porrigo, but it readily yielded to cleanli ness and the application of an ointraent composed of equal parts of lard or common cerate, tar, and powdered charcoal. Want of cleanhness alone cannot be said to cause this affection, as the Arabs generally are worship pers of the Prophet, and have their heads shaved, and observe the ordinances of their religion with much more exactness, punctuality, and fidelity than the Christians. Before they turn their faces towards Mecca, and offer prayers, which are most iraposing and solemn, they in variably wash their faces, hands, and feet ; and this they do three and five times in the twenty-four hours. The other parts of their bodies receive very little attention, and, consequently, are in a more filthy condition. The Egyptians are a very temperate people frora ne cessity : there is no wine or ardent spirits peculiar to the country. To this, raore than to cliraate alone, we would ascribe the greater readiness with which their diseases yield to treatment Frora the state of nature in which they live, there is very little predisposition to inflararaa- tion ; and hence the readiness with which they recover from wounds, and the reraarkable success of surgical Op erations. The salutary and desirable process of union by the first intention, or adhesion, is much more coramon and complete than in any part of Europe, or even in Ameri ca. This has been ascribed by some to the heat and dryness of the cliraate alone ; but we would give a part ofthe credit to the sound and«natural constitutions ofthe Arabs. In the raore civilized and refined countries of Europe and Araerica, there is frequently either too rauch inflamraation, or too high a degree of irritabUity, to have 382 EGYPT. this object accomphshed. Both these states of the sys tem are well known by every surgeon to interfere with, and, indeed, frequently to frustrate, this process entirely. Even the wound made in the operation of Uthotomy, which is performed in the lateral way, except that the prostate and neck of the bladder are cut directly down ward towards the rectum, as recoraraended and prac tised by Vacca, frequently heals by the first intention, as I was informed by my excellent friend, Dr. Pruner. My experience in New-York warrants rae in saying, that the adhesive inflararaation is, cceteris paribus, raore favourable for union by the first intention during our hot seasons than in the cold weather of winter. This I have noticed in an abundance of instances, and have been in the habit of ascribing it to the lesser degree of inflammation that follows operations and injuries in the summer raonths. Aneurisras are almost unknown in Egypt. Dr. P. in formed rae that, during a nuraber of years of extensive private and hospital practice, he had had only one case requiring an operation. It was a ligature upon the bra chial artery. I presented hira with a set of the Ameri can instruments for conveying the ligature beneath the artery, and showed hira the manner of using them ; with which beautiful, simple, and ingenious inventions he assured me he would make an application of the lig ature in the first case which came under his care. Since visiting a number of Oriental cities, it is no longer surprising to rae, that they should, from time to time, be scourged with typhoid forms of disease, and particularly the appalling and terrific forms of it denom inated the Peste or Plague. As long as their cities re main, and their habits continue, it must be, from time to time, the companion of the Mussulman. The features EGYPT. 383 and appearance of this disease, like the Asiatic cholera, are frightful indeed, frora the overwhelming operation of the contagion, infection, or poison that produces it, upon the nervous system. It certainly resembles the action which sorae of the more deadly vegetable and animal poisons have upon animal life. From the mild vegetable miasra that produces interraittent and re mittent fevers, there is a variety of causes, vegetable and aniraal, differing in intensity and violence, until we arrive at the raost concentrated of aU, which is the ma- teries morbi of plague itself. Frora the facts which I collected at Cairo, Alexandria, Srayrna, and Constantinople, in each of which places the disease existed, and in the first of which I saw a nuraber of cases, ray belief is, that it is not contagious, but infectious and atraospheric. Dr. Bulard, the distin guished and intrepid French physician, whom I met in the East, and with whom I returned to Europe, has been several years imraersed in the plague, visiting those cities in which it prevailed, for the purpose of investi gating its nature, and the causes that produce and in fluence it As we perforraed our quarantine together at Orsova, I had an opportunity of collecting raany curi ous facts in relation to t8e disease, and, at the same tirae, becoraing acquainted with raany of his views and opinions. He does not beUeve the disease coramunicable from one person to another in the pure air of the country ; they raust be, as he says, in a pestiferous atraosphere. In three instances in which the clothes frora the dead body were worn by tbree individuals, two took the dis ease, but the experiraent was made in an impure atmo sphere. He thinks it would not be coramunicated in this way in a pure air. It cannot be transraitted by 384 EGYPT. ino(ailation with the blood from patients labouring un der the disease. He informed me that he had made more than one hundred trials with the blood, at different stages of the coraplaint. He even doubted that inocu lation with the matter from a charbon or inguinal bubo would produce the disease out of a pestiferous focus. Dr. Pruner informed me that he never knew an in stance of plague to follow an autopsy among the pu pils of the hospital, and that they niade post mortem ex aminations of plague subjects as freely as those who died frora other diseases. Dr. , of Alexandria, stated to us, that he sent the clothes and mattress of a person who died of plague to London, and that a quantity of the discharge from the charbons and buboes was min gled with them, and cotton was imbued with it pur posely. It arrived safe, was taken home, but no disease was coraraunicated by it His confidence in the non- contagiousness of plague was so great, that he was in duced to make this bold and unjustifiable experiment In the astonishing number of autopsies which Dr. Bulard made in Egypt, Asia Minor, and Constantinople, amounting to upward of six hundred, he found the mor bid appearances very varied. The brain, the stomach, intestines, liver, and spleen, were the organs generally either congested or inflamed. ' One of these organs was sure to be found in the above-mentioned state if the patient survived the initiatory stage, or coUapse of the whole systera which ' ushered in the disease. Many perish in this stage. Those who survive it require a very guarded and cautious depletory treatraent, from a fear of the secondary coUapse, which too frequently also is fatal. As far as I could ascertain, there is no settled- method of treatment among the practitioners of the East. AU EGYPT. 385 are very cautious in depletory means, and particularly venesection ; yet leeching and cupping may be and are resorted to. Another will say that quinine in large quantities, from the comraenceraent of the attack, is the only chance the patient has, in from five to ten grain doses, several times a day, and continued through the stage of excitement From the great discrepancy which I found to exist in the treatment of the peste, and from what I saw for my self, it should, in my opinion, be treated upon the same principles as an aggravated forra of raalignant typhus ; always bearing in raind the necessity of watching very closely for the unexpected collapses, which suddenly and fataUy steal upon us. We visited also at Cairo the Lunatic Hospital. The inmates are in a truly deplorable condition, being liter ally naked, and confined like felons, with heavy chains around their necks, as if it were a crime of the most atrocious character to be chastised thus by God's prov idence with the greatest affliction that human nature can suffer under. The light of civilization, and the blessings of the huraane and philosophical treatraent of these wretched beings, as universally adopted, and with surprising success, in all Europe, has not yet reached benighted Egypt, however great the progress made by the viceroy in the modernization of other raedical chari ties to the improvements of the age. In our last visit with Dr. Pruner to the miUtary hos pital on the bank of the river, we were amusingly escort ed by the doctor on a beautiful donkey, preceded by a janizary in red Egyptian dress, with a long Turkish sword by his side, and running the whole distance on foot ahead of us, we following on, in Indian file, through the mazy, winding lanes of the city and suburbs. The Ccc ,3,86 EGYPT. doctor was in his usual fuU Egyptian dress, with a long sword girded upon him, the ordinary costume of a phy sician of rank. This spectacle would certainly have made some of my friends smile, considering the sombre gravity and sable habiliments in which our profession move in most other parts of the world. The doctor did not go through the wards with a drawn sword ; but this appendage to his dress was very politely and formally taken off frora him by his servant on our entering the antechamber of the hospital, and as politely readjusted to him when we were about to leave. At the hospital I was presented to one of the professors, a French gen tleman who had resided many years in Cairo, and a raan of high consideration in his profession. He also was in the full Egyptian dress of a gentleraan, which we consider rich and beautiful, and weU adapted to the cli mate. We may, without doing full justice to it, briefly say that it is composed of a red fez cap, a short round- jacket and vest neatly embroidered, short pants in full folds to below the knee, where they are drawn close, and the lower limb adorned with beautifully-embroider ed, long, tight gaiters, all of the same material, terraina ting with a red raorocco shoe, and, to coraplete the whole, as we have said, a long Turkish sword. At the request of this gentleman, who, by-the-by, was mounted on a magnificent gray Arab charger, we accom panied him to his house ; his janizary, also with sword, preceding hira on foot. Among other interesting sub jects of conversation with this physician, he informed me that he was writing a paper to prove the existence of a certain species of epizootic worm which infests the human body in hot countries. To illustrate the correct ness of his views, he produced a large folio volume of Avicenna, in the original Arabic, from which he read to EGYPT. 387 me the paragraph in that ancient and estimable author in confirmation of his views. Though I was not enabled in Egypt to obtain, what I greatly desired, an original copy both of Avicenna and our other great Arab apostle in medicine, Rhazes, yet was I honoured in a most distinguished raanner, by the presentation from my much-valued friend. Dr. Pruner, of a manuscript copy of the Aphorisms of Hippocrates, in royal octavo size, of exquisite penmanship, almost like copperplate, and in admirable preservation. A note appended to it, in Dr. Pruner's own handwri ting, calls it " The Aphorisms of Hippocrates, comraent- ed upon by an Arabic physician, Abderrahraan, the son of Aii, the son of Abi Saadek. The manuscript is judged, by the famous sheikh Mohammed Aiad e Than- tiiaoui, to be from three to four hundred years old." I must acknowledge my thanks to Dr. Pruner for another valuable work he presented me, as a specimen of the ad vanced state of the precious art of printing in Egypt It is a thick quarto, neatly bound in boards, of excellent, clear, and clean type and paper, being a translation into Arabic of a Treatise of Hygiene, from the French, for the use of the scholars in the medical school formerly established at Abou Zabel. It is from the press at Bou lak, the little town which we have already mentioned as the landing-place on the NUe, near Cairo. We have a few words more to say on the distressing affection well known as the Ophthalmia of Egypt. The extensive ravages produced by this malady are, in my opinion, owing to neglect of early and proper treatment It is purely an inflararaation of the external merabranes of the eye and eyelids, and it is very correctly, from the very copious discharge of pus that accompanies it, de norainated Purulent Ophthalmia, A great majority of 388 EGYPT. those affected with it do, in fact, receive no treatment whatever ; but, frora the observations I made among our Arab attendants, I found it readily yielded, in the be ginning, to active and prompt means, based upon the common principles of the treatment of ophthalmia in our country. If these remedial measures are omitted, the inflararaation is very coraraonly destructive of the eye by suppuration. Nothing is more usual in Egypt than to see Arabs with the loss of one eye. We can readily understand that, when this disease once comraences in an army or encampment, it will be speedily propaga ted by means of the myriads of the common fly that abound in all parts of Egypt These insects cluster in great numbers about a sore eye, and, from the quantity of discharge that is continually flowing, their feet be come, in ray opinion, the vehicles of the propagation of the contagious virus. Every one who has been in Egypt, and has witnessed the loathsorae sight of hun dreds of flies swarming about the faces of sore-eyed children, and wallowing in rivulets of pus, must be con vinced that they are the organs or agents by which the disease is transmitted from one person to another, and thus becomes epidemic. I do not know that I ever saw a poor Arab woman with her child astride her shoulders, but that the latter had one or both eyes streaming with the pus of this ophthalraia, and its little hands actively at work in brushing off the offensive and obtrusive visiters. In travelling on the Nile, I made for myself a gauze veil as a protector, having serious ap prehensions, from coming in constant contact with oph thalmic cases, that I might myself become a subject of this disgusting malady. The sore eyes, the sore legs, and cutaneous eruptions that afflict the poor Arabs, are frightful to behold ; and the nidus which this extensive EGYPT. 389 surface of disease presents for the sustenance of the in sects we have mentioned, seems only to whet the appe tite ofthe latter with a keenness which is alraost raven ous, for they dart from a diseased to a healthy subject ^vith the fierceness of a hornet I regret that I was deprived of the pleasure of seeing Clot Bey, a French physician, who is the surgeon-in- chief of the army of Egypt, and the personal friend of the viceroy. He was the first physician who introduced modern European practice in Egypt, and coramenced his career as a poor hospital-boy at Marseilles, furnish ing another instance, so common in France, of the fa cility with which, through the means of cheap education, genius can surmount the impediments of poverty. He was absent in Syria with the army under Ibrahim Pacha. I was inforraed by Dr. Pruner that Clot Bey had had two or three occasions of tying the larger arte ries for aneurisras, such as the femoral, and, I believe, the external iliac. Man continues to be sold by bis fellow-man, as has been the practice frora iraraeraorial tirae in this coun try. The Sacred Writings inforra us that certain por tions of the huraan race were, in the earliest recorded ages, raade slaves of by others. This traffic at Cairo I saw under most abhorrent circurastances, which were the more disgusting, as the swarthy race that are masters of Egypt are themselves, in part, the descendants of negro slaves. Hundreds of the negro tribes, of a jet-black col our, and of all ages and both sexes, are constantly being brought from one to two thousand miles in the interior of Africa, where they have been stolen, but most of them, disgraceful to say, sold by their inhuman parents for a string of beads or a shawl, to be transported to this great mart, where they are produced on the place appropria- 390 EGYPT. ted for that purpose, and shut up in pens until a conve nient tirae for the sale. I was treated with great kindness, not only by Dr. Walne, our vice-consul, and by Mr. Waghorn, the agent of the English overland steara-route to India, but by many of the distinguished official functionaries. In our morning visits we were regaled with a profusion of re freshments, such as coffee, pipes, sweetmeats, fruits, and watermelons, which were handed round to us by some dozen or more nimble servants ; but at dinner the Turk ish cuisine far exceeds even the French in endless va riety of courses. One day, dining with the bey, after the usual prelude of coffee and pipes, water was poured upon our hands frora a silver pitcher into a silver basin. Embroidered napkins were then offered to us ; after which, a large silver waiter was brought in and placed upon a stool, to which we sat down cross-legged, and commen ced with the first course, which was pigeons and chick ens, served on hard cakes without knife or fork. Fol lowing the example of our host, we made the best use we could of our fingers, and tore the meats to pieces in the same manner that he did. To these succeeded an im mense variety of other dishes, aniong which was a plen tiful abundance of confectionary ; the different courses consuming a space of two hours. To return to the slave-mart. Not only were negroes here sold by their mulatto Arab masters, but we saw also Circassian and Georgian girls, of exquisite beauty and whiteness of skin — the beau ideal of a race that is deem ed the most perfect of human beings, of the same species as ourselves — brought here, like cattle, to be knocked down to the highest bidder. The black Nubian girls, with nothing more than a brown cloth or grass band wrapped around the loins, were playing with their beads. EG Y P T. 391 One, a littie girl of fourteen, interested us much. She had a quick, bright eye, and pleasing countenance, and was amusing a group with lively stories. But her own story was one of a mournful character. When we came near her, she sprang up and importuned us to buy her, promising that she would do all to please us ; and, ex pressing her predilection for us, put out her tongue to convince us that she was in perfect health. The price was sixty doUars. Her story was, that she was torn frora her brothers, and sisters, and parents while she was mUking goats, and placed on a camel and carried away ; in relating which, she burst into tears. The Cir cassian girls were better clad. One was of great beauty, of snow-white skin, light hair, and blue eyes, and attired in a pretty silk dress, ornamented with ear-rings and other jewelry, and altogether rechercMe in her appear ance ; yet was she a poor slave, and never more would see her own romantic mountains on the Euxine. When we approached her, she laughed and appeared happy, as they are taught to do ; but I could see that the laugh was forced and hysterical. It was a thriUing and heart rending spectacle. She said her parents had sold her. The price for her was 12,000 piastres ! The appear ance of these lovely girls, so like our own matchless countrywomen, contrasted deeply with the monkey fa ces, shining black skin, and tallow-greased woolly hair of the negroes. After due deliberation, we made up our minds to go into Palestine by the route of Damietta, and so across the lower part of the Syrian desert This we were in duced to do by the advice of our friends, who made careful inquiry of the Sheiks as to the disposition of the Bedouins towards traveUers in the direct route from Cairo to Jerusalem. We were informed that there was 392 EGYPT, too much danger for us to undertake the route, as the Bedouins had of late become very much exasperated, which put the lives of traveUers in great jeopardy. We had partly arranged a caravan for this expedition, but deemed it raost prudent to abandon it, and therefore erabarked from Cairo, and descended the Damietta branch of the Nile to that city, upon the lower part of the Delta. This was a voyage of about four days, being somewhat speedier than our upward trip, as we now had the current with us. One of our companions found a good deal of sport going down, and at the different towns where we stop ped, by means of his fowling-piece. He carried such havoc among the sacred birds, the cranes, hawks, gulls, &c., that it would have made the ancient Egyptians weep, could they have burst their mummy cereraents and come out of their catacombs. Our deck was liter ally strewed with the dead of these feathered tribes ; and when Asaph was carrying them on his back through the villages, his feelings were very much mortified to hear the taunts of the Arabs for killing such raiserable, uneat able trash, as these once-adored aniraals are deeraed by the present degenerate races in possession of Egypt. We have found this wretched and oppressed people — for th,ey are all slaves to the viceroy — everywhere kind to us. In the viUages they would insist on our sitting down by the side of them to eat cucumbers and smoke pipes, which they would bring to us ; yet they have nothing they can caU their own. Ask them to whom that fine field of rice or tobacco, or that tolerable-look ing house or boat belonged, and the answer always was, " To Abbas Pacha." It would seem that he own ed not only the whole of Egypt, but the bodies and souls of the people. They live in mud huts, 200 or 300 EGYPT. 393 of which are clustered together, and this hive of miser able beings is dignified with the name of town. About two thirds of them appear to live almost exclusively on cucumbers at this season of the year. It is rare to see an able-bodied man, as these are all pressed into the army or for the public works. The women do the chief labour in the river towns. Sometimes we saw girls, almost entirely naked, astride of buffaloes and camels, and occasionally, in this man ner, crossing the river, and obliging us to steer our boat out of their way. While they were making this peril ous transit, we could see nothing but the head of the rider and the nose of the animal The most gallant young gentleman of our party had quite a flirtation with some of the girls, and told one of the naked ones (through Asaph), rather ironically, that he feared she would get her stockings wet, when she replied that he was an impudent Frank. He bantered another, who was veUed, about her ugliness, when she told him her eyes were prettier than his, and, out of spite, waded off to the boat and raised her veil when her teazer was forced to raake her a present The'towns in this route are more numerous and con siderable, and of a better appearance, and the scenery far more interesting, than by the branch of the river by which we had ascended. The soU is much better, and under higher cultivation ; *still, however, an unvarying alluvial plain throughout its whole extent, without a mountain or even a hill to be seen, nor any of those an cient and remarkable relics of art which we had gazed on with so much pleasure in other parts of Egypt. As our boat landed at Damietta, a gentleman in a Frank (i. e., our own) dress immediately carae on board, he having, as we approached the city, descried our, Ddd 394 EGYPT. Araerican flag ; for, under aU circurastances, both on the water and on the land, wherever we could, we sought protection under our own glorious banner, and in what ever clirae or land it was in our power so to do, kept it waving over our heads both by night and by day. The gentleman who came on board was an Itahan, and spoke also French fluently. He introduced him self as an attache to the American Consulate of Dami etta, and voluntarily offered us his services. Our first inquiry was for a hotel. Though, frora the wretched appearance of the place, we did not flatter ourselves certainly with the prospect of any luxuries here, we did hope for soraething a little better than our poor boat- accoinraodations. He quickly took us in charge, to con duct us to apartments belonging to the consulate, but did not raise our expectations by any encomiums upon them in advance, the reason of which silence was clear ly explained to us when we arrived there, for we found thera presenting a most woful appearance indeed. They were rooms truly, but they strongly reminded us of our garret accommodations at Marathon. The hen and chicken apartment, at the house of our friend the Mayor of Delphi, was a comfortable saloon corapared vsrith our lodgings at Daraietta. They consisted of two or three sraall apartraents, in the raost filthy condition imagina ble, without a solitary article of any furniture whatever ; and these were the only apartments in the place that could possibly be obtained ; and the dwelling-houses, if they may be caUed such, were the most deplorable we had seen in any modern town. Before atterapting to install ourselves into our new horae, we deeraed it ira portant to send a deputation or comraittee to the con sul hiraself, who was an Arab, and lived adjacent to the city, in a rookery on the sand. Being of that comrait- EGYPT. 395 tee, I proceeded on my mission, accompanied by our faithful Arab servant Asaph as our interpreter ; and, af ter a considerable walk through the sand, with a blazing sun over our heads, we reached the mansion of our country's representative. From the hesitation which was manifested in admitting us within the precincts, and the barricaded condition in which the rookery had been placed, I had scarcely any doubt in my own mind that this wdiS the female part ofthe American consulate, otherwise called, in Eastern countries, the harem of a private gentleman. After considerable delay, we learn ed that his highness was not at horae ; but our irapres- sion was that he was not visible. We left our cards, and, as ray own was in the Arabic character, designa ting my profession and country, he could readily under stand who we were. On returning to our boat to make arrangeraents for moving our travelling equipage on shore, the consul shortly after made his appearance, and seeraed every way disposed to do his utmost to raake us comfortable. To our great regret, however, we found that it was not in his power, consul as he was, to extend to us any hope of better quarters than had been offered us by his Chan- celier. The first thing raost imperatively deraanded was something in the way of satisfying the cravings of hun ger, as our provisions on board were very scanty, having been obliged to rely, frora day to day, upon what we could pick up along the river at the little towns, and also by depredating with our fowling-pieces on the flocks of pigeons, neither of which resources had furnished us with any great abundance. While sorae of our Arabs were engaged in reraoving our traveUing furniture and luggage on shore, another was sent with our faithful Henry to the market-place for something to eat. After 396 EGYPT. dihgent search some materiel was collected, and we re paired to our quarters, and there enjoyed a frugal repast with a keen appetite. Our hunger being now to a certain degree aUayed, we took into prospective consideration our accommo dations for the night, and unpacked and arranged our sleeping apparatus. My travelling bed with its moscheto- bar served rae most providentially on this occasion, and was literally a royal luxury, as it raised rae in every sense above the condition of my companions, who were compeUed to stretch theraselves upon the floor by my side, wrapped in their blankets. In this Arabian saloon we reposed for two nights, which will be ever memora ble in my calendar; for of all the congregated armies of moschetoes, of colossal stature, that ever serenaded and wounded poor raortals, these with which we were entertained on the two nights at Daraietta surpassed. Perfectly protected as I was, I could have passed the night raost corafortably ; but ray corapanions were tor mented to such a degree that I thought they would have gone raad, and my deep sympathy with their sufferings kept me awake. One was driven from his inhospitable bed, and sought shelter in the open air, and got upon the roof of the hotel, where, from the greater coolness, he was enabled to envelop himself corapletely in his blanket, and thus, with this coat of mail, was protected from the farther fierce attacks of the enemy. The next morning I found my professional services in great re quisition, and was sumraoned to exaraine the wounded whose cases for cutaneous injuries, produfced by mos cheto bites, exceeded anything of the kind I had ever before seen. They were disfigured throughout the sur faces exposed beyond all description. The town of Damietta, once the emporium of the EGYPT. 397 eastern part of the Delta, is situated on the eastern side of the Nile, about ten miles from its mouth. The spe cies of clothing known as Dimity was once manufac tured here, to such great extent, and of such excellent quality, as to derive its name from the town. In an cient times it was famous for the cultivation of the pa pyrus-plant, a three-cornered reed, whose fibrous mem branes were glued together, and formed the paper (a word derived from that plant), upon rolls of which the Egyptians recorded their hieroglyphic and other wri tings, found in such numerous quantities in the coffins and catacombs, and extending often to 50 yards or more in length, as may be seen in the museums of the princi pal capitals of Europe. The more ancient Daraietta, situated about five railes frora the present town, was, sorae centuries since, deera ed of such importance as the key of Egypt, that the leaders of the sixth crusade besieged it for seventeen months before it feU to their arms, when it was found a perfect charnel-house, the population having been redu ced, by famine, pestilence, and war, from 70,000 to 3000 persons. We found nothing of any interest, ancient or raodern, at this now inconsiderable and raiserable-looking place. Our intention was to go frora Daraietta, across the lower part of the desert, to El Arish, and from thence to Gaza and Jerusalem ; but our consul informed us that we should have fourteen days quarantine at El, Arish, four at Gaza, and four without the walls of Jerusalem. And we also ascertained frora him that the governor of Jerusalera had, in consequence ofthe breaking out of the plague in that city, interdicted aU coraraunication, pro hibiting those within the city frora going out, and those outside from coraing in, which was to last for a month. 398 EGYPT. AU these difficulties and dangers staring us in the face, we resolved, by a vote of the majority, against, however, our raost earnest desires and pious intentions, to turn our backs upon Jerusalera. We had no idea of under going this iraprisonment on the sands of Syria, with the greater additional probabilities that, while we were being purified ourselves for the better security of the Arabs, we might, from the filthy condition of their quarantine establishments, engender the disease in our own persons. Jerusalera, which had been one of the principal ob jects of my travels to the East, the place of all others I had most desired to see, was now to be abandoned for ever. That holy city, which was once the perfection of beauty, the joy of the whole earth, I was not destined to visit. It can well be imagined what my disappoint- raent must have been when obUged to turn ray back on the promised land. It was, however, no doubt all right ; and, believing it to be so, I was resigned. That holy land raust therefore, in all probability, be to me forever a terra incognita. We next arranged to return to Alexandria by the way of Rosetta ; but here, too, we found ourselves in a dilemma. The cholera was prevailing at Rosetta, and if we entered it on our way to Alexandria, we should, under the prevaihng views of contagion in the East, be here also subjected to the necessity of undergoing quar antine. Consequently, we made up our minds to take the river route back to Alexandria. On this back track by the delta of the Nile frora Da raietta to Alexandria, one of our young corapanions had quite a series of rather perilous adventures. Supposing the head wind would detain our boat some time, he pro ceeded on a gunning expedition along shore, accompa nied by Asaph. On arriving at one of the rand villages. EGYPT. 399 his feelings were so outraged by an Arab unraercifnlly beating his wife, that he could hold in no longer, and comraenced kicking him for his brutality, and, finding this fail, he drew back, and cocked and levelled his gun at hira, when the dastardly husband desisted in fear and trepidation. At this, a number of fierce-looking Arabs, espousing the cause of the brute, rushed upon our com panion, and threatened to despatch him on the spot Preserving, however, his coolness and presence of mind, he gave them to understand that he would fire upon them if they advanced, whereupon they ran away with their accustomed cowardice. What were his sensa tions now, on returning to the bank of the river, to see no vestige of our boat, and to learn that it had passed down some time before. He now gave hiraself up for lost ; but, fortunately, another boat coming along at this moraent, he was permitted to go on board, and, ap proaching the stern, where the owner, a fine old Turk, was sitting under an awning, our companion made him self very much at horae, and squatted hiraself down alongside of hira. Carrying out this air of faraUiarity and rank, he took up one of the old Turk's costly pipes, and, handing it to Asaph to light, coramenced smoking with a degree of nonchalance, or, rather, cool impudence, which quite disarraed the old fellow, and made him burst out into a loud laugh ; and such, was his gratifica tion, that the choicest refreshments were now brought up frora below, consisting of coffee, waterraelons, cakes, sherbet, sweetmeats, &c. It was the host's turn now to try the mettle of his guest, which latter was astounded, not to say somewhat frightened, to see the Turk sud denly snatch up the gun and level it in his face. After holding it so for some tirae, he put it down, and then again coraraenced laughing. In a shgrt time after, our 400 EGYPT.. companion and his kind friend overtook our boat, and both came on board, bringing their pipes along. We found the old gentleman very agreeable, and quite ready to join with us in a glass of brandy and water. He very politely insisted on our calling upon hira at his residence at the town sorae distance farther below, and he now took leave, and, having the fastest boat, soon got out of sight. The next day we stopped as he de sired, and found horses and servants waiting to carry us to his palace, where we were most hospitably entertain ed with a sumptuous dinner sufficient for forty guests, consisting of lamb, chickens, fruits and vegetables, con fectionary, pipes, &c., served up iu the Turkish style. We found ourselves, in fact, in the house of the bey or governor of all this part of the Delta, and shall long re member with pleasure these distinguished civilities from a gentleman of the highest rank in his native land, to wards utter strangers, who had no claim upon hira, but were deeply indebted to him for rescuing our friend frora imrainent perU. On my return to Alexandria, having suffered consider able indisposition while descending the branch of the Nile to that city, I felt no wish to make a long sojourn, as both the Plague and Cholera were prevailing. After making the usual calls of courtesy upon our consul, and visiting, by appointraent at the palace, the viceroy Mohararaed Aii, we fortunately found a con veyance to the Levant. From Alexandria we embarked on board of one of the French steam-ships-of-war and returned to the Isl and of Syra. On our arrival here, being still under the quarantine flag, we could not land without being sent to the lazaretto, and therefore were* immediately trans- EGYPT. 401 ferred to another steam-ship, and thence proceeded to Smyrna. - The saU from Syra to Smyrna is very beautiful We passed a great nuraber of the islands of the Archipelago, and were raost of the time in sight of land. We saw the Island of Samos, so celebrated for its fertility and its dehcious wine of classic fame, and in later years for the terrific slaughter of its inhabitants by their ruthless oppressors and invaders the Turks. E E E 402 ASIA minor. ASIA MINOR. The approach to the coast of Asia Minor is bold and imposing. We landed at Smyrna after a voyage of two days, and put up at a very comfortable hotel. The city is situated on the declivity of a hill, with a spacious and beautiful bay in front, furnishing a capital harbour, and therefore a favourite rendezvous, as is familiarly known, for ships of war of all nations. The wharves are well constructed and convenient for all the purposes of com merce. Here, also, are some warehouses, and a consid erable appearance of the bustle of commerce. There is nothing grand or striking in the aspect of the city. It is divided into two quarters, one occupied by the Turks and the other by the Franks, which latter are of all Christian denominations, but consisting chiefly of Greeks and Armenians. These two portions of the city, though both under the sarae pachalic, appear to be very distinct We raust not omit to return our sincere thanks for the kindness with which we were received upon our arrival and afterward by our countrymen who are settled here as missionaries. They came down to welcome us to Asia Minor, and pressed us earnestly to stay at their houses, which, however, we declined, deeming that it would be intruding too rauch upon these ranch-esteemed friends, whose means in their pious vocation must be hm ited, to biUet ourselves upon their generous hospitality. The most interesting objects that we found were the Turkish cemeteries in the environs of the city. The tall, graceful, and melancholy cypress are here planted ASIA MINOR. 403 among the white raarble torabs in thick groves, resem bling, at a distance, an evergreen forest of extreme and imposing beauty, again vividly recaUing the graphic poetry of Byron : " Within the place of thousand tombs That shine beneath ; while dark around The sad but living cypress glooms, And withers not, though branch and leaf Are stamp'd with an eternal grief." One point of interest to which our attention was di rected by one of our American raissionaries, who kindly accompanied us to the spot, was the place believed to have been the site of one of the seven churches of Asia. It is a sraaU enclosure of about an acre, unoccupied, and adjoining to a large Turkish cemetery, and contains a smaU ruin, which is thought to have been the altar of the Christian edifice. We were told that such was the prejudice of the Turks against this supposed Christian enclosure, that it was a current belief among them that, if their bodies were interred there, they would not rest m peace, but rise again, and take refuge in their own consecrated graveyard. On the raountain elevation in the rear of the city, which coraraands a raost extended view of the harbour, sea, and distant islands, there are some remains of an cient ruins ; one of which is stated to have been a tera ple dedicated to Esculapius, frora the foundation of which we professionally supplied ourselves, as in duty bound, with a specimen. Having been furnished with a letter of introduction from the Turkish ambassador at Paris to his friend the Governor of Smyrna, we were pohtely conducted by our vice-consul accompanied by his janizary as interpreter, to the Castie. Here we were courteously received by his exceUency, who treated us with pipes and coffee. He 404 ASIA MINOR. kindlv offered his services, and made inquiries touch ing our own countrv, and was particularly desirous to know whether we permitted polygamy, expressing great astonishment that we should deem one wife a fair aUow ance for each individual This subject seemed to in terest him much more than anything relating to the commercial importance or pohtical condition of the American people. The missionaries told us tliat they had established Christian schools, but had to abandon tiiera ; for such was the Mohammedan antipathy to any innovation of this kind, that even the Armenians themseh es, tiiough professing Christianity, joined with the deluded Turks in suppressing them. I attended Christian Protestant service in the chapel of one of the foreign consuls, and was delighted to hear a sermon from my countryman Mr. Riggs, tiie mission ary from Argos, in Greece. His text was from the Gospel of St John, and the discourse, though in modern Greek and extemporaneous, was delivered with remark able fluency and eloquence, tiie congregation consisting of some fifty of tiie Greek residents of Smyrna. While at Smyrna we went to see worship in the church of the Armenians, who claim to be the legitimate descendants of the primitive Christians. These people have their own quarter, and are numerous and wealthy, of fine persons and great dignity of deportment, and wear a costume of their own, of which the huge cap is most striking. The women are extremely beautiful and fair, coming as they do from a region not far from the famed Circassia, the cradle, as it is deemed, of fe male loveliness. We never, in fact, saw so much fe male beauty in any city of the East as is found here in every class of its mixed population. The services of ASIA MINOR. 405 the Church were a curious mSlange. The men and women were separated by a partition of bars, and the former were aU kneeling and praying, and bumping their foreheads many tinies, in the manner of the Turks, from whom this practice appears to have been borrowed. The ceremonies performed by the priests were similar to those of the Cathohc Church. The chanting was perforraed by boys. After the service the men retired, and the women, aU veiled in white shrouds, were ad mitted, and, passing in succession, kissed the priest's hand, and then put on their shoes and passed into the gardens belonging to the church. Here is a large pic ture of heaven and heU, and containing some 500 fig ures, the grotesque and even ludicrous attitudes of some of which seemed but littie calculated for the solemnity of the place. The Jews also have their quarter ; and upon this un fortunate and persecuted chosen sect of God, every other denomination, Turk, and Armenian, and Greek, unite in heaping revolting oppression and unmanly contume ly. Yet they heroically and patiently submit to every wrong and insult, and contrive, by dint of hard industry, to obtain a comfortable liveUhood. The dress of the Jewesses struck me as peculiarly beautiful and classical A cincture of gold links was around the waist, and bandelets to the forehead, and bracelets to the wrists, all of the same metal The men, in personal appearance, are far handsomer than the women. The Greek quarter did not impress us with much re spect for this branch of their race. The Smyrniote Greek women, however, who greatly exceed in numbers the other sex, are of extreme beauty compared with their kindred in Greece ; but their forms are bad, from their extraordinary obesity. I never saw such a coUection 406 ASIA MINOR, of enormous and misshapen fat females before. They wear a pretty cap, covered with gold lace, around which the hair is braided. Their dress is slovenly and ira- modest, soraething in the Egyptian style, and they aU chatter French as fluently as raagpies. One of their greatest deformities is their huge feet ; but their features, and especiaUy the eyes, are exquisitely beautiful. The Ottomans dress in their superb costume, which is the richest and most elegant we -saw in Srayrna or else where. The woraen are of surpassing beauty. In the slave-raarket we saw about fifty, chiefly negroes from Nubia. Smyrna is deeraed the Paris of the Levant, and con tains 60,000 Turks, 40,000 Greeks, 10,000 Armenians, 10,000 Jews, and 5000 Franks. The plague in 1814 destroyed 40,000 persons. Smyrna is the capital of Asia Minor, and, next to Constantinople, the largest and most Oriental city in the Turkish empire. It is very beautifully situated on one side of a large bay, gradually rising on the side of a mountain. The town looks very weU at a distance, as it is approached from the sea, frora the great number of mosques, with their white, towering minarets; but when you enter it, everything has a Turkish character. The streets are generally very narrow, merely alleys, but usu ally roughly paved. In most of them, the windows of the first story are made to bow out in the Turkish and Egyptian fashion, so that the occupants can easily shake hands, and step from one house to the other. We now embarked in an Austrian steamer at Smyr na, and took our departure for Troy. We arrived in the DardaneUes the day after our departure, and landed at Abydos, in Asia Minor. Here, through the polite ness of the American consul (an Italian), to whom we ASIA MINOR. 407 presented ourselves, we arranged a caravan for the in terior. The party consisted of our guide, who was a Turkish Jew that spoke Italian, an armed Greek, my faithful servant Henry, and my companions and myself, aU mounted on Turkish horses, with Turkish saddles. After a fatiguing day's ride, we arrived about twelve o'clock at night at the Uttle viUage of Buonar-bachi, where, by the influence of our firman, we were imme diately admitted into the walled enclosure of the pacha's residence. "He received us with great kindness and civility, and treated us most hospitably. Turk and pacha as he was, we had had the teraerity to rouse hira up, at the late hour of our arrival, frora his peaceful slumbers, and when the whole viUage, indeed, was as still as death. One would have imagined that, but for the firman, we might rather have looked for the bow string than for the very cordial reception which we did meet with. He took me by the hand as the senior of the caravan, and conducted me up a crazy flight of steps, to what appeared like the upper loft of a stable, and in sisted that I should sit down upon the carpet rug upon whicli he had been reposing. This I dechned at first, from complaisance to his highness ; but the raore I re sisted, the more he importuned, and I at last yielded. I was no sooner seated than his servant arrived with a pipe, and in a very few minutes afterward I was regaled with a cup of coffee. The same attentions immediately followed to my companions. His highness made many inquiries of us about the Viceroy of Egypt, his troops, ships, seamen, &c. He was prodigal of his encomiums on the superiority of the Turkish ships, and said most of them were built by our distinguished countryman, Mr. Rhodes, the naval archi tect of the sultan. He spoke in the most exalted terms 408 ASIA MINOR. of Mr. Rhodes, who, we learned, possessed such vast in fluence over the sultan, and was so great a favourite, that his majesty offered Mr. R. a pachalic, which, however, was raodestly declined. After we had sraoked our pipes for a short time, we were served, upon the floor, with a tray by the side of us, containing the blackest and the sourest composition, in the form of bread, that I ever tasted or beheld, accompa nied hypotcheese oi a kindred quaUty, that had the lactic acid developed in the greatest abundanc'e. A stone pitcher of water constituted the third article of repast Of these materials we partook as liberally as their delicate nature would permit, not having tasted food since the morning, and being considerably jaded by a tedious ride in the hot sun. We requested our guide to ascertain, in as pohte a manner as possible, if soraething better could not be had. The reply was, that it was all that the larder of the pacha could furnish. We apprehended that it would require sorae tirae for the digestion, even of travellers such as we were, to dispose of such crude raaterials. After finishing our supper, we were aU ar ranged for the night in an adjoining roora, on a grass mat upon the floor, which the pacha had himself caused to be prepared, and where we passed the night without taking off our clothes. Although this was hard Turkish fare, we shall ever feel particularly grateful to his highness, as it was the best in his power to give, and was given with great good will. Our sleeping chamber was close under the roof of the pacha's mansion, through the openings in which we could count the stars, while we were being agreeably serenaded during the night with the tramp, and flapping, and. lugubrious cooing over our heads of scores of that common, domesticated, and apparently sacred bird in ASIA MINOR. 409 Asia Minor, the stork, a species of crane, generally of gray plumage and of tall and graceful form. The next raorning before sunrise we arose, and, after being served with a second edition of our supper, I de sired Henry to ask if some mUk could not be procured, which in a short time was brought to us, and with this delicious addition, though goat's milk, we were enabled to make a raore generous repast ; after which we mount ed again, and proceeded through an undulating and fer tUe grain country, abounding in excellent fields of wheat, to the supposed site of ancient Troy. We found our selves in an extensive forest of huge oaks, on an eleva ted spot coraraanding a view of the Mediterranean, and nearly opposite the Island of Tenedos, with a distant view of Thrace on the Continent of Greece. Here we disraounted, and in rambling about the woods we dis covered here and there large fragments of pillars of beautiful raarble, and in one place the most colossal SINGLE COLUMN WC had cvcr beheld in all our travels. It appeared to us to be quite equal in diraensions to Pompey's Pillar or the obelisk at HeliopoUs. It was broken into two parts, being a raonoliih of a plain, smooth, and polished surface, and apparently of the simple Doric order. If it be all that is left of immortal Troy, it is a magnificent relic, in its mournful and im- bowered solitude. It raust have inspired even the ruth less Goth with its beauty, to have been perraitted thus for 4000 years to reraain intact and undefaced. Though prostrate to the earth, it is touchingly erableraatical of the fallen but raighty city, whose raournful history may, in truth, be as briefly and sublimely expressed in this superb shaft of raarble as it was in those two emphatic words of the Mantuan bard, " Fuit lUum." In this forest we raet a straggling Turk, whom we F F F 410 ASIA MINOR. laid under contribution to convey us to any ruins that there raight be in the neighbourhood. He conducted us to an iraraense ruin in the midst of the forest, being the foundation, apparently, of an edifice of enormous mag nitude. We entered through a large archway into what seemed to be the ceUar, and which was divided into several compartments, aU sustained by massive arches, upon which must have reposed some stupendous superstructure. In perusing the late interesting work of our countryman, Mr. Stephens, we have been re minded of these ruins by his descriptions of the splen did structures which he saw at Palenque and other places in Central America, and which he found alraost covered with impenetrable forests of huge timber. If there be any paraUel to be drawn from this simiUtude, our Araerican ruins, which are represented to be in a state of preservation about equal to those of the Acropo lis at Athens, must have a claim to a much higher anti quity than many imagine, at least 3000 to 4000 years. In all directions around the forest where there was any habitation, we saw columns and portions of former ancient edifices strewed about the huts, entering into the garden fences, and serving various purposes. That there was once, and in a remote period of time, far beyond the raemory of man or the evidence of re corded history, a vast city on this location, there can be no doubt ; and, frora the site of it, and the best tradi tions that remain, we believe that this neighbourhood accords fully with the position described by Homer as the residence and capital of the iraraortal Priara. It is true that we are told that a new Iliuin, many years after the first great capital had crurabled into ruins, was built at some short distance from the latter. It is possible that such raay have been the fact, and that a teraple ASIA MINOR. 411 was erected there, and that the treasures of the ancient city were removed to it ; for so haUowed, even in the time of Xerxes, was the renowned story of Troy, that it was then on every tongue as the most delightful theme of the glories of bygone days. He, in his expedition to Greece, made, as is averred, a pilgrimage to Novum Ili um, that he raight treasure it in his raemory, as Plato, Herodotus, Strabo, and others had worshipped at the foot of the Pyramids. So also, like Xerxes, did the matchless Alexander, on landing in Asia Minor, repair with holy zeal to the shrine of this Troy, and there knelt before the sacred armour of the great Achilles, that he might breathe in sorae holy inspiration to spur him on to valorous deeds of arms. And, last of these iUustrious conquerors, Julius Caesar himself, boasting of extraction from the consecrated hne of Trojan kings, came expressly from Rorae to add his narae to those who had made a journey to Troy personally to record there the horaage of their admiration. We descended from this forest to a beautiful plain, which we believe to have been that of ancient Troy. It extended from the forest to the range of mountains, of whicli Mount Ida is the most prominent and merao- rable. At the extreraity of this plain, towards the raountain, on the opposite side to the forest, we carae to the River Scamander, which is rather less in size than the Ce phissus at Athens, and a number of the sources or springs of which we counted near Buonar-bachi, with the greater satisfaction, as we knew they had been fully and completely identified with those described by Homer as existing but a short distance from the walls of Troy. We saw a number of the springs, but could not make tiiera reach to forty, as some travellers have done. 412 ASIA MINOR. We returned back that night to Buonar-bachi. In our ride we had a fair and distinct view of the mound on the plain and near the seashore, and which tradition states to be the tomb of AchiUes, with a smaller mound near it, which is beUeved to be that of Ajax. The Greeks are stated to have buried their dead on the plains, and the Trojans theirs in the neighbouring mountains. We therefore may be said to have reposed for two nights in the memorable^ region between the torabs of Hector and Priara, and those of Ajax and Achilles. We returned by a different route frora Buonar-bachi to Abydos. On our way, at dusk of evening, we were suddenly surprised by the sight of eight or ten huge Turt|, whom I pointed to our party, lying in the grass, and some of thera across the pathway that our horses were going. We naturally, at first sight supposed them to be waiting in ambush to attack us. We all drew up together, expecting every moraent to receive a discharge of rausketry. This was the raost fearful and trying po sition into which we had yet been placed in Asia Minor. I was in advance of the party, and, on discovering the group of Turks, I stopped short, and quietly awaited the coraing up of ray corarades, to whom, on joining me, I suggested that the raost prudent plan would be to pursue our course silently, without a word being said, and to diverge a little frora our route. This proved, we have reason to believe, a most fortunate manoeuvre ; for the supposed hostile party appeared to be all wrapped in sleep, without any one of them having been posted on the look-out Even the sentinel, if they had placed one, must have been faithless to his duty ; for we all passed on without molestation. For a long tirae we continued to cast a suspicious look behind us ; and when at a rea- ASIAMINOR. 413 sonable distance, we hastened our speed, believing that on this occasion, as on many others, discretion, as it proved to be, was the better part of valour. Proceeding steadily onward, we finally arrived again at Abydos. We had been under the necessity of leaving our mounted guard some distance behind, his horse hav ing broken down. He therefore, instead of being ena bled to precede us into the town as our protector, was now, to his extreme mortification, compelled to remain in the rear, more chagrined, probably, at the apprehen sion that this detention would jeopardize his pay than his life. Abydos is a pretty little Turkish town, on the mar gin of a well-sheltered bay at the entrance of the Hel lespont, and has been made far more famous by the de licious poetry of Lord Byron than by any of that cora raercial iraportance which it is said to have reached in ancient tiraes. Here it was, in the fabulous ages, that the enamoured young Leander, of this town, swam the Hellespont to his loved one, the beautiful Hero, at the village of Sestos, on the opposite shore of Grecian Thrace. She on one fatal night, true to her love, had not forgot to light her torch on the accustomed tower, where she awaited his coming ; but the impassioned youth, borne off to the sea by the force of the current, perished in the waves. Thus is the story beautifully imagined by Byron : " The winds are high on Hello's wave. As on that night of stormy water. When love who sent, forgot to save The young, the beautiful, the brave. The lonely hope of Sestos' daughter. Oh ! when alone along the sky Her turret-torch was blazing high. Though rising gale and breaking foam. And shrieking seabirds warn'd him home ; 414 ASIA MINOR. And clouds aloft, and tides below, With signs and sounds forbade to go ; He could not see, he would not hear. Or sound or sign foreboding fear : His eye but saw that light of love. The only star it hail'd above ; His ear but rang with Hero's song, ' Ye waves, divide not lovers long !' " Here, too, Byron, inspired by this heroic example, also swam the HeUespont, which he accomplished with ad mirable skUl We now embarked in a French steam-ship-of-war bound for Constantinople. Leaving Abydos, we shortly passed through the HeUespont, about a mile in width, being the narrowest part of the Dardanelles. It is lined on each side with numerous forts and extensive batteries for a long distance above and below, giving it a most formidable and warlike appearance, such as we have never seen in any other situation, and fully reahzing all that we had heard or iraagined of its raatchless strength. This, with the picturesque scenery of the shores, and the notable incidents of history and of fable that are associated with this neighbourhood from the remotest times, give to this passage a peculiar enchantment It was in this meraorable strait that the fair Helle, who bequeathed it her name, was drowned whUe being borne across it with her brother on the back of the fabled ram of the golden fleece, to escape frora their unfeehng raoth- er in Thessaly. It was to recover this ram in Colchis, whither the brother had fled, that Jason and his com rades embarked in the Argonautic, or first great raari- time expedition. It was at the entrance of the HeUes pont that landed the asserabled hosts of Agameranon, who were engaged in the long ten years' siege of Troy ; and it was here that Xerxes and his Persian myrmidons passed over into Greece by a btidge (we presume a ASIA MINOR. 415 bridge of boats), covering the sea and shores of the ad joining coasts with his hundreds of thousands of men ;. and it was here also that the gallant young conqueror Alexander came, in his turn, with a raere handful of troops, to avenge the stain which the Persian invaders had inflicted upon Greece, and, following up his march in a succession of splendid victories at the Granicus and at Arbela, pursued the Asiatic hordes even to the mouths of the Indus and Ganges. The night after leaving Abydos, we found an Aus trian steamer on shore above the HeUespont, and, after two or three hours' ineffectual efforts to get her off, were obliged to abandon her and pursue our voyage. 416 CONSTANTINOPLE. CONSTANTINOPLE. Leaving the DardaneUes, we passed the Uttie Sea of Marmora, or Propontis, as it was called by the ancients, and the next afternoon arrived in sight of the wonderful Constantinople, and came to anchor in the Golden Horn. As we had come from a plague region, we hoisted the yellow flag at the mast ; directly after which a boat with a Turkish officer carae alongside, and informed us that we would be obliged to perform quarantine. Being very anxious to know what disposition was to be made of us, we eagerly inquired whether it was to be perforraed in a large frigate which lay near us, and was the quarantine hulk, or whether it was to be done on shore at the lazaretto. We raade raany anxious in quiries of the captain and officers on board of our steam er, what was to be our fate, but could learn nothing. In a short time, however, we were ordered on board of the hulk, to go through our sanatory probation, totally un conscious of what that process was to be. On arriving at ojir place of destination, we crept through a port-hole, closely watched by Turks in authority; and iraraediately on reaching the gun-deck, a dark and griray door, from whence a column of smoke was issuing, was pointed out to us, and we were ordered to enter. The apart ment was as dark as a dungeon, and we could not see each other's faces. Presentiy, as our eyes became ac commodated to our new residence, we dimly discerned CONSTANTINOPLE. 417 a large brazier, frora which columns of smoke were is suing. The furaes, however, had an aroraatic and deli cious odour, and, as we afterward were informed, were produced by the burning of the sacred wood of Mecca. In this holy smoke-hole we remained less than five minutes, when a door opened on the opposite side, and an officer beckoned to us to corae out, deeming l;hat we were sufficiently purified to be admitted into the impe rial city of his sublime highness the sultan. We ac cordingly left the hulk, on the opposite side to that by which we had entered, and by a small boat were con veyed to the capital of the Ottoman empire. This farcical process of disinfection furnished, no doubt, numberless fat sinecures in its train, but precious little protection against the spread of contagion, even supposing for a moraent, what we have by no means had . sufficient evidence to believe, that this disease is one of a contagious nature " per se ;" and what rendered this " sraoky mumraery perfectly ridiculous and absurd was, that, in a few minutes after we had arrived at the wharf, I found my servant and all our baggage on its way di rectly from the infected steamer to the shore, without having undergone any of these wise measures pf pre caution that we had been subjected to for the exclusion of pestilential diseases. We took lodgings in a private ItaUan family in a pleasant part of the Frank quarter of Constantinople, caUed Pera. A more imposing and beautiful appearance cannot be presented to the notice of any one, than is exhibited to the traveUer on approaching Constantinople from the Sea of Marmora. The almost innumerable white mosques and minarets that rise in bold and majestic re- Ggg 418 CONSTANTINOPLE. Uef amid the houses, and the thick forests of dark-green cypress that denote the burial-grounds scattered through the very heart of the city, together with its elevated and beautiful position, and its background of mountain scenery, give it a rank very justly distinguished among all the cities of the East Constantinople is a rauch less Oriental city than Cairo, but it is in external appearance and situation infinitely raore iraposing and attractive. Of all the pla ces I have yet seen, this capital presents by nature and art everything that is impressive, grand, and beautiful. It must only, however, be viewed in its approach from the Sea of Marmora or the Bosphorus to be seen to this advantage. Were a traveller to rest satisfied with this alone, he could never cease to award to it the palm of the queen of cities. The bold mountain scenery which surrounds it on the Turkish as well as the Asiatic side, and the wide expanse of water which spreads itself around, present a nobility and picturesque. effect which raay be said to be unrivalled. As we first approached it from the Sea of Marmora, I counted forty-five minarets, towering, white, raajestic, and lofty, towards the heav ens, indicating that there were there teraples of worship. Presently, on a raore near approach, the extensive cir cular doraes gradually arose to our view, and other pub Uc buildings by degrees were brought in sight, making the tout-enserable a fairy scene indeed. At length we arrived opposite SeragUo Point, which juts out into the Bosphorus, and raay be said in sorae respects to resera- ble our Battery. Here is situated the seraglio and ha rem of the sultans for many centuries past, but not now occupied by the present potentate. Some of these build ings are pretty good exteriorly. They consist of many CONSTANTINOPLE. 419 palaces, ancient and modern, and a very extensive range of rooms hke prisons for the harem. There is a wall yet remaining, three miles in extent, which denotes the lirait of the ancient city of Byzantium, so caUed when occupied by the Romans under Constantine. Passing around this point, a new scene opens itself Frora Seraglio Point, a noble arm of the Bosphorus, called the Golden Horn, puts up to the extent of per haps three railes. On each side, for two of these miles, the whole of Constantinople raay be said to stand. Across the Bosphorus again, on the Asiatic side, and opposite to Seraglio Point, is Scutari, a large town con taining many thousand inhabitants, with several palaces; and one occupied by the present sultan as a sumraer residence, with the constant appendage to all of thera, a harem. The view frora Seraglio Point up the Bos phorus is like a fairy scene on each side as far as the eye can reach. It is thickly studded with white villas of every style of architecture, Turkish, Venetian, Chi nese, &c. ; and araong thera frequently is seen a palace, once tbe residence of sorae of the old and forraer sul tans. The present sultan -has a winter palace on the Turkish side, as he always resides on the Asiatic side in suramer and tbe Turkish in winter. The arm of the Bosphorus, or Golden Horn, on each side of whicb I have mentioned that the greater part of what is caUed Constantinople is situated, is a noble and magnificent stretch of water. The width and the depth of it make it one ofthe finest seaports, probably, in the world. This branch of water, called by the Turks the Golden Horn, is no doubt so denominated from the facility with which it raay bring an abundance to their favourite city. It winds up beautifuUy and romanticaUy araong the mount- 420 CONSTANTINOPLE. ains^ and is finally lost in a fresh-water rivulet, where the sultan has a kiosk or suraraer-house, with waterfalls and grounds laid out with exquisite taste. Each side of the Golden Horn is what is by strangers called Constanti nople ; but the Turks only call the side comraencing at Seraglio Point, Stamboul or Constantinople. The other side is called Galata and Pera, which is the Frank quar ter. There is a bold ascent from the water on both sides ; and on that of Pera it is very steep, and the elevation alraost mountainous. There is no choice of eitber side for narrow streets, rough pavements, and want of lamps, of which last not even a solitary one is to be seen at night ; thereby causing great inconvenience and diffi culties, especially to travellers accustoraed to the well- lighted cities ofEurope and America. The streets of Pera are so narrow that a vehicle of any sort is almost totally out of the question here, as in most of the Oriental cities. A few horses now ai^d then are to be seen carrying loads, but men are for the most part the beasts of burden. As for atterapting to ride on donkeys or horses here, as we did in raany parts of the East, no one dare venture, frora the steepness of the ascents. The fatigue, therefore, in getting about, and climbing up and down, can scarcely be imagined. How a lady is to be transported from one part to another I scarcely know. Indeed, it is very rare to see one in the streets, either in Stamboul, or even in the Frank quar ter. Those Turkish feraales who are seen in the streets are wretched and misshapen hills of flesh, with their faces covered, constituting the most disgusting raoving raasses that could curaber the earth. If all female mat ter was presented to rae in such huge and unsymmetri- cal forms, and yet aU covered up, I am sure my admi- CONSTANTINOPLE. 421 ration of lovely woman would be very much abated. And, more than aU, what would be said to see one of these mountains, with equatorial and polar diameters nearly the same, astride a little donkey, the coraraon way the woraen ride here and at Cairo. It can scarcely be iraagined, after being faraiUar with such pictures, how deUghtful and refreshing it would have been to have seen once more the female face and form divine. But, alas ! this was not our happy lot Stamboul is strictly the Turkish quarter. Not a Frank, as far as I could learn, lives araong thera. This is equally as irregular as Pera, and the streets generally as narrow. Only two or three of them, with great dif ficulty and danger to those who venture to ride as weU as those who walk, admit a wheeled carriage. If any wheeled vehicle is seen, it is of a most outlandish and grotesque form, without springs, painted fantastically with yeUow, red, and black colours, and is drawn by two oxen, which are also fantastically caparisoned with bells and ribands. Within the vehicle are generally seen four, but more comraonly five,- of the before-mentioned female beauties, sitting flat on the bottom (for there are nev^er any seats), the coraraon coraplement of one ordi nary Turk's household. These creatures are coraraonly clad in white, head, chin, ears, and all. Now and then the muffler of the face exposed barely the nose and eyes. The latter organs they move about with great unconcern, as we saw when they were exposed, or when they could be discerned through their veils. Their features are generally very large, vulgar, and unmeaning, of a pale, chalky, and cadaverous hue, and very generally exhibiting an ex pression of melancholy. To complete the picture, ew 422 CONSTANTINOPLE. voiture, there is generally one female of Nubian black ness, which colour is admirably set forth by the white ; and a blacker skin than this ebony accompaniment generally possesses, I venture to assert, never sweltered under an equatorial sun or radiated heat amid the burn ing sands of Nubia. The common method in Stamboul of getting about is to foot it, except that we are now and then interrupted by a pacha with two or three tails, as the case raay be, on a splendid Arabian horse, with four or six runners on foot to carry his pipes and Koran, and be ready to raake coffee for hira as soon as he stops. The crowd of per sons in this quarter is beyond conception during the morning and towards evening, at which time only the bazars are open, as it is a coraraon practice in the East for aU the shops to be closed during two or three hours in the raiddle of the day, when the Turks retire to their divans to enjoy their coffee and pipes. Staraboul is a place of bazars mostly, and they are almost numberless. They are mean, dirty little boxes or alcoves, in which the article exposed is not only sold, but made. Very little can be found in these far-famed and very celebra ted places, except slippers and pipes, to gratify a Euro pean or Araerican taste. Most of the bazar-keepers are Turks, Armenians, Greeks, and Jews, and with strangers they are sharpers indeed. And the valet de place every one is obliged to have, in order to speak the language, is no less intelligent and clever, so that be tween the two parties a third position is far from being an enviable one. I searched not a little in the bazars for something choice and beautiful to purchase, but rarely succeeded. It raay not be irrelevant to state that, however simi lar, apparently, the Turkish narae of Staraboul is to CONSTANTINOPLE. 423 Constantinople, its origin is correctly, we believe, im puted to the Greek phrase E? rav nokiv, or " To the city," as used by the peasantry when going to the capital, and asked what was their destination. The early settlement of this place, ages before it became the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire, was made, as we are told, by a colony of Dorians from Greece, and antiquarians af firm that to this day, reraains of the Doric dialect are detected in the language of the Turkish peasantry in that neighbourhood. On the Stamboul side are situated most of the raag nificent structures caUed mosques and mausolea. They are truly in size grand, and sorae of them are in their architecture beautiful. The mosques are very numerous, and more iraposing frora size than neat and chaste in their proportions. Some have two, others four, and one six minarets, which are very elevated and gracefully proportioned structures, perfectly white, standing raajestic around the more humble and less conspicuous dome. It is these minarets which give to this city such a picturesque and attractive appearance when viewed from a distance. At a great elevation on each of the minarets is a small balcony, around which a man walks four tiraes in twen ty-four hours ; at sunrise, noon, sunset, and midnight, he cries out, in a sort of mournful chant, the muezzin, which is an incitation to prayers. It is made in four directions over the Turkish capital. By the Turks it is called Eyan, and it runs thus : " Almighty God ! I attest that there is no God but God, and Mohammed is his Prophet ! Corae, ye faithful, to prayer ! Corae ye to the teraple of salvation ! There is no God but God ! Prayer is preferable to sleep !" I have heard and seen this called several times. It is solemn, imposing, and 424 CONSTANTINOPLE. subhme. It is raade at the same hour on every day of the week, from aU these temples, in aU directions of this vast capital and tbe surrounding suburbs. At midnight it is especially solemn, and thus feU on the ear of the sensitive Byron : " Haik, from the mosque the nightly solemn sound, The muezzin's call doth shake the minaret : ' There is no God but God ! to prayer ; lo ! God is great !' " Among the many mosques which ornament this great city, three are the raost remarkable : St. Sophia, Achmet the Second, and that of Sultan Mohammed, The first is the raost sacred and holy in the estiraation of the Mussulraen, and is guarded with religious and pious care to prevent it from being defiled by any Christian. Such is the abhorrence they feel towards the Franks, that it is at the hazard of life for any one to enter it without proper authority from the sultan. To view the interior of this, and the seraglio and harem, is a favour alraost exclusively granted to ambassadors, and now and then to comraodores and admirals. None of the American missionaries, who had Uved many years in Constantino ple, had ever seen the inside of these great objects of curiosity and interest. The Seraglio is a very extensive range of palaces, with all tbe decorations and fine trappings of a long line of sultans, up to the late potentate, who aban doned it from a feeling of insecurity, all his predeces sors having been poisoned in this place, or in some way disposed of From the many bloody deeds also committed, and bloody decrees issued by the latfe monarch from this palace, it was by no means a favourite residence of his. He was said not to sleep there once in % year ; for, since he ordered that all the janizaries should be killed, CONSTANTINOPLE. 425 amounting to nearly 60,000, his repose probably had been somewhat disturbed. The raassacre was so gen eral that but one of these functionaries escaped. This took place about eleven years since, and it is said that the whole sea and shores of the Bosphorus were so of fensive, from the floating bodies of the dead, that a pes tUence was apprehended. I was told, upon good au thority, that the Turks, for more than a year after this terrible carnage, would not eat any fish taken in these seas, from a fear that they would be unhealthy. The late sultan preferred wisely to reside in his palaces on the Bosphorus, surrounded by Christians, Armenians, and Greeks, having raore confidence in them than Mussulraen. Having been personally acquaint^ with the sultan's prirae rainister, Reschid Pacha, while he was ambassa dor at Paris, I waited upon him, by appointment, at his palace on the Bosphorus, accompanied by Mr. Brown, the head dragoman of the American charge, as inter preter. He received me most graciously; and as he conversed perfectly well in French, I had no difficulty in a free intercourse with him. After partaking of pipes and coffee, he politely asked if he could do anything for me. I told him that I should be gratified to visit the most interesting objects worthy to be seen at Constan tinople, among which I naraed the seragho and harems, and the celebrated raosque of St. Sophia, which, as they are never visited except by special firraan from the sul tan, I felt the more curious to see. He said that -he would apply to his sublirae highness the sultan in my behalf, and send me a firman the next day, which he ac cordingly did, through the American charge, with the usual ceremony of being enclosed in a red silk bag. It is weU enough to remark that a firman from the sul- Hhh 426 CONSTANTINOPLE. tan is a formal document, on parchment, written in the Turkish language. As an evidence of the rare and special favour granted me, I raay raention that Mr. Brown, nephew and drago man of Coraraodore Porter, our charge, informed me that no American had ever before visited the palaces and hareras at the Seraglio. They told me at Con stantinople that I was the most favoured private citizen that had ever come to that capital and that I have been the raeans of enabling thera to see what they never had hoped of having the pleasure of beholding. Having full perraission to take as raany as I pleased, I caused to be invited all ray countrymen and others whora I knew, that they raight embrace this fortunate opportunity. Among the numbeji was our distinguished and raeritori- ous countryman, my excellent friend Mr. Rhodes, and his faraily, and Mr. Goodell, one of our missionaries, who had resided eighteen or nineteen years in this capital Escorted by all the guides and attendants that usually accompany ambassadors, we visited first the ancient palaces and harems at the Seraglio. In these palaces there is a great deal of massive rich ness and Oriental taste, totally different from the more modern on the Bosphorus, which are quite European. ' The old reception-chamber of the forraer sultans is the most gorgeous and princely room of any that I have ever seen. The pillars of the canopy over tbe divan upon which they sat to receive the foreign ambassadors, are thickly studded with the largest precious stones of every possible variety that can be iraagined. It is im possible to estimate or conceive the cost and value of these jewels alone. Connected, of course, with this great establishment, is a very extensive harem, through all which I passed. It makes a part of every palace es- CONSTANTINOPLE. 427 tablishment at the present time, and consists of a large number of good-sized bedrooms, arranged along galler ies or haUs, with such fine gratings to tiie windows that no one can possibly see the occupants from without, and these latter with difficulty see out themselves. Con nected with a suite of these apartments is a magnificent saloon, in which they assemble for the sultan's inspec tion, and to amuse theraselves with plays and in dan cing. The beautiful arrangeraent of baths makes also an important part in these establishments. The whole of this series of buildings is now deserted, and it is only lately that any one has been perraitted to see it The only attendants about it are those wretched-looking hu man beings who are always considered safe about the harems. St. Sophia is the most ancient of the mosques, and it is the largest. It is a peculiarly interesting temple. It is araong the oldest in this region of the East that was dedicated to Christian worship. It was built by Justin ian, and devoted to the purposes of a Christian tejnple in the days of Constantine. Frora this fact, it becomes an object of particular interest to every Christian trav eller. The exterior .decorations of minarets, of which there are four very elevated, and also the internal ar rangeraents, are, of course, at present entirely Turkish. As in all raosques, there is interiorly an imraense dome, supported on the sides, nay, all around, by raarble pil lars, with large galleries sustained by the same. Sorae of the piUars are of cylindrical forra, each of one shaft of raarble, porphyry, or verd antique, said to have been taken from the teraple of Diana at Ephesus. When you first enter, the naked appearance and ab sence of decoration or beauty of architecture, produce the impression of that of an immense barn or vacant hall. 428 CONSTANTINOPLE. There is a sort of pulpit in one part, from which the Koran is read from time to time, and coraraented upon. The floors are aU covered throughout with matting made of the palm-leaf, and kept remarkably clean. Not a Turk presumes to enter here or into other mosques, except barefooted or in clean slippers, and after having previously washed his hands and face. At aU hours of the day you will see hundreds of Turks at worship on the matting, with their faces invariably turned towards Mecca. I have watched the foUowei-s of Mohararaed in different parts of Turkey and in Egypt, and they ap pear to rae to be infinitely raore faithful and sincere to their forra of worship than the Christians generally. The true worshippers of the Prophet, for pure fervour of devotion, deserve to be iraitated by aU Christians. It is impossible for any one who has not witnessed it to con ceive an idea of the dignity and Solemnity of their form and manner of prayer. The only vestige which remains in the huge temple of St. Sophia, to tell of its once Christian character, is a colossal painting on opposite sides of the ceUing of the dorae, representing the cherubira and the seraphira. Extraordinary, indeed, it is, that in this the most holy of the Mohammedan temples, this remnant of Christian apostacy should not long since have been effaced. Who knows but that ere long this relic of the early Chris tians raay be pointed to again by the followers of the true God and his Christ ? The entire ceiling of the dome of St Sophia is said to be of mosaic, but, frora its height, it cannot be seen. That it is of raosaic, is es tablished by the disgraceful fact, that the mercenary Turks, for a suitable reward, clamber up to the ceiling and despoU it of fragments to gratify the avidity of vir tuosi who wish to possess specimens of this remarkable CONSTANTINOPLE. 429 production of ancient art. If it were not that so much difficulty attended getting admission to this edifice, it would soon cease to be an object of admiration and at traction. Many of the other mosques, nearly as large, and of the same style, would be equally as interesting. The mausolea, of which there are many in this part of Stamboul and near the walls of the seraglio, are in teresting objects to visit They are neat buildings, mostly in the neighbourhood of the larger raosques, and in thera lie entorabed various sultans and their famUies, from the earliest times of this erapire. They consist of a large roora, covered also with matting, in which are raised neat sepulchral structures of various sizes, to de note the different ages of the deceased. The sultan of each respectively, his lawful wives, generally four and five, and all his chUdren, are deposited here.- The mau soleum not only includes his lawful children, but those by his slaves also ; so that the whole number is very considerable. In several I counted four and five wives, in orye forty-four children, and, I think, in another forty- seven. In closets around this sepulchral charaber are to be seen the costuraes and jewels of the now inhumed oc cupant, and they are very costly and gorgeous. AU the illegitimate children of the former sultans, and also ofthe late one, were strangled or kiUed directly after their birth. The late great potentate, Mahmoud, is said to have had five, and sorae say seven lawful wives, and frora four to five hundred iemale slaves. He is also said to have had forty-eight children. He was about fifty- three years old. The next object that strikes a stranger's attention is their cemeteries or burial-grounds, all shaded with groves of cypress. They are very numerous and of immense 430 CONSTANTINOPLE. size, and are raade conspicuous places, not from the beauty of their sepulchral raonuraents, but frora being located in the raost thickly-populated portions of the city, and planted with countless numbers of that most graceful and evergreen tree the cypress, that tells in every direction, " Here lie the dead !" Many of the Turks have their own private burying-ground closely adjacent to their houses, and, be they where they may, the funereal cypress is the invariable emblem. Monu mental stones, also, are the inseparable accorapaniment to a grave, and they are generally of marble, but ,are very uniforraly rude, misshapen, and devoid of symme try or taste. The Turks inter their dead in a very crowded and confused manner, only about two feet be low the surface, and none but the best of them have the body enclosed in a wooden case. Their graveyards, on this account, become raost loathsorae and offensive, and proved so even to ray tutored olfactories. In tiraes of the pest they are disgusting to the greatest degree, as I experienced myself about the cemeteries in Smyrna, where the plague was prevailing during my visit One thing I saw myself which was horribly revolting. It was that the bodies are devoured by dogs, raultitudes of which animals are peculiar to all Turkish cities, and I have seen thera prowling about these soleran enclo sures, with every evidence to warrant the assertion I have made. Though those cemeteries in and about Constantino ple are numerous and very large, yet by far the most extensive and beautiful are near Scutari, on the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus. The Turks generally have a great aversion to be buried in Constantinople, from a belief that sorae day or other it wUl again be in the possession of Christians. CONSTANTINOPLE. 431 Many of them, therefore, are carried over into Asia, where they consider themselves more secure from any pollution with the Franks. Where there are neither names to streets nor numbers to houses, it must be very difficult to form an estimate of the number of inhabitants. The computation, as near as it can be come at from uncertain data, is, that the whole number at Constantinople, including the ad jacent vUlages on the Asiatic side, amounts to between four and five hundred thousand. Excepting Stamboul, v\here the population is dense and very compact, all the other parts of Constantinople are spread over a larger surface tiian in European cities, and the houses are generally mean and small, with, how ever, the more general distribution of open grounds and trees ; the burial-grounds constituting so many parks or groves, which, but for the loathsome causes stated, would contribute greatiy to the salubrity of the city. The latter appearance is everywhere to be observed in the towns and cities, on the coasts as weU as in the inte rior, both of Turkey and Asia Minor, and is a striking characteristic of tiie East It is this dispersion of green fohage among tiie towering minarets, as we have before observed, that makes all Turkish cities and towns so attractive and beautiful when viewed from a distance, and causes the disappointment to be so very great when we enter and find them so repulsive. Another part of tiie population ought by no means to be omitted in the general estimate, and that is the dogs. They form an entire repubhc, and a most numerous and independent one. They own no master, and no one seems to owti them. From the droves of them in the streets, it is beheved that there may be from ten to twenty thousand of them ; and I think this number is not exag- 432 CONSTANTINOPLE. gerated. They lie about in all directions, and appear to be perfectly harmless, scarcely raoving out of the way, and are the only scavengers. The Turks have no hogs, as the eating of such food is forbidden by the Koran. Yet a Turk never owns a dog or has one in his house ! They furnish frequently some amusement in the streets, by setting up a terrible barking when they see a number of persons in Christian or Frank dresses ; and ours would no doubt vociferate in the same way at the novel and grotesque costuraes of the Mohararaedans. They never kill a dog, having some superstition on this subject connected with their religion ; but cats are rauch caress ed by thera, and frequently seen in their houses. As soon, however, as the pest appears araong the people, cats are a general object of raassacre, not from a feeling of any particular vengeance, but because it is a general belief in the East that cats retain the contagion of plague, and spread it in a neighbourhood ; and it is a fact that many of them die of it. An interesting object at Constantinople is a sect of Mohararaedans called Dervishes. There are two varie ties of this description of Mussulraen : tbe dancing or turning, and the grunting or groaning. The former are by far the most curious and respectable, and have a beautiful place of worship at Pera. The latter are at Scutari, on the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus. They are both followers of the Prophet, but have seceded from the established Mohammedan faith, and are objects of hatred and persecution by the orthodox Mussulraen. They have a chief or leader among them, whom they appear to hold in the highest respect, and even venera tion. The sect increases from converts from without, matrimony not being permitted among them. In some parts of their worship there appears to be great fervour CONSTANTINOPLE. 433 and earnest devotion, but at their strange gesticulations and characteristic features, the raind of every one must turn with pity and disgust There is nothing in our country that can compare with thera but the pecuUar and unnatural people caUed Shakers. Which has the priority of rank, or precedence in time or years, I cannot positively say ; but ray belief is that the Dervishes are the most ancient It is certainly a curious and interest ing coincidence, that in the two great divisions of Chris- tianisni and Mohammedanism there should be in each a sect whose physical habits so remarkably resemble each other, without, it may fairly be supposed, either having the slightest knowledge of the other. Each labouring, for all that we know, spiritually, as they certainly do physically, for a glorious and happy imraortahty, the one through the laws and rigid regula tions of their renowned prophet and head, Mohararaed, the other through the raerits and sufferings of Jesus, the Redeeraer of the Christian world. The good and faithful of each will, I have no doubt, be in raercy saved. The one wiU be judged by the Law and the other by the Gospel. It cannot be otherwise, when we know that nine tenths of the huraan race have never heard or even Usped the name of Christ, and when we believe in the abundance of mercy that perpetually flows from and surrounds the seat of Jehovah. Fatalism is a striking feature in the character of the Mussulraen generally. They say, "Whatever is, is right," and under this belief they repose in the most un wavering security and confidence. The greatest tem poral evils they use no raeans to ward off or avert, but content theraselves by saying that it is frora God, and therefore that it is in vain to escape frora thera, and that it is their duty to submit with patience and resignation. In 434 CONSTANTINOPLE. It is on this account that the plague ravages and depop ulates their cities, because they consider it a visitation from God. This faith leads them to seek for no means to cure or methods to arrest it when it happens to ap pear araong thera. If they would allow of raedicaraents to be fairly and properly tried, suitable raeans of clean liness and ventUation to be introduced, as are generally sought for and used araong Christians, I do not believe it would long continue so appalling and frightful a scourge to the Eastern world. To the professors of the healing art, therefore, these countries hold out very few induceraents. Few of tiie Turks ever think of seeking for relief under any eraer- gency of suffering whatever. The physician or surgeon who resides araong thera must build his hopes upon the Frank population. As far as I could learn, there never was an instance of a Mussulman submitting to an amputation or any other surgical operation ; for, though every prospect of saving life could thereby be fairly presented, he prefers to adhere strictly to his faith, and to die. It appears to be widely different from that peculiar kind of brutal stu pidity and indifference which is frequently seen in the negro of our country. It seems to be a quietness and serenity of mind, which is accompanied with resolute and unchanging hope, and frora which state and condi tion nothing can divert or disturb. With our habits of thinking and education, we would unhesitatingly apply the epithet of ignorance and obstinacy to what they scrupulously and firmly believe to be a religious duty. Perhaps the Turks raay be said to have legitimately inherited this aversion to surgical aid from what is rela ted of their great prophet, Mohararaed hiraself It is authentically stated of him that he had a tumour or wen CONSTANTINOPLE. 435 on his back, which he cunningly avaUed himself of as the seal of his prophecies, to impress them with greater force upon the creduUty of his followers. The place of worship for the dancing or turning Der vishes is a handsome plain building, without cupola or minarets. It is a large square house, with a circular area, with galleries above and below. The centre of the area is covered with matting, and is provided with a number of sheep and goat skins to kneel upon. In front of the area is seated the high-priest on a piece of carpet or skin, and on entering they make a most profound and graceful bow. This they invariably do, whether he be there or not, turning their faces to his seat or to the Turkish inscriptions above it They then take their seats in the circumference of this circle, on the floor, in the manner pecuhar to the Turks, and bend forward and bow their heads to the floor. In this regular order they remain in perfect silence until the chief arrives, when they all, by a bow again to the floor, signify their obei sance ; but they do not rise up. The ceremony now commences, and consists in chanting, to all appearance, prayers for half an hour, when they aU rise on their feet, preceded by the priest, and walk three tiraes around in very soleran procession, bowing twice to the high seat, which is also on the floor, where they pass. This being through, the principal takes his seat, and they deliber ately put off their graceful togas, lay thera aside, and begin to turn until the whole area is filled with thera. To see thera turning or whirling with their long pet ticoats and arras extended, spinning around and " raaking cheeses," as children say, and, though crowded together, never jostiing or interfering with each other, is won derful. Then a very peculiar and soft rausic was heard, as though at a great distance, and sweet and harmonious, 436 ' CONSTANTINOPLE. like that of the instruraent called the harmonica. It was a stream of melody much less shrill than the bag pipe, and raore melodious. This dancing, or, more properly, waltzing, continued at least for half an hour, without a moraent of inter mission, and untU they seeraed exhausted. They were barefooted, and with their long under dress, which is like a very long and fuU petticoat, that filled out as they turned to a monstrous size, they exhibited an unique and very grotesque appearance. Their arms, at the same time, were stretched out, and raised up at a right angle to the body. They had three spells of walk ing and three of turning, each turning being preceded by a raarch around the roora. Their togas are graceful and beautiful, of striped brown, and blue, and red silk, with a brown beaver hat, consisting only of a crown. The second kind of these very strange huraan beings, or the groaning or howling dervishes, who reside in Asia, appear to be a lower order of raen, and their re ligious cereraonies are more revolting and offensive. Their place of worship is also every way inferior in neatness to that of the others, but suitable to the con dition and character of the occupants, and tbe savage like nature of their performances. In their dress there is nothing but the hat that resembles the other species. They want the elegant and flowing toga of uniform shape and variegated colours which is worn by the dancers. As they enter the place of worship, as they aU do, barefoot or with clean slippers, leaving their shoes at the door, all raake a low bow to the principal or chief, or to his seat if he shaU not have arrived. Seated on the floor, with their feet under thera, in tiie Eastern cust-ora, they appear to be engaged for some time in chanting prayers, and manifesting their reverence for CONSTANTINOPLE. 437 the head of the church, who is present and seated on the floor on a sheepskin. This being ended, they rise up, take off their outer garments, arrange themselves around the circumference of the roora, generally bare footed, and with their toes approxiraated so that one great toe rests upon the other. The chief then com mences howling in a moderately low tone, which they immediately follow and imitate. By degrees it aug ments, until it reaches almost a frightful pitch, and is accorapanied with a great inclination of the body for ward and backward, and a corresponding raovenient of the arms. The noise which they make is not only a howling, but it degenerates into a regular hog-like grunt ing of the most sonorous and audible sort The ara- bition of each appears to be to excel his neighbour in these inharmonious and incongruous sounds and gestic ulations, making it very evident to spectators, that the more superlatively disgusting is the conduct of the wor shipper, the more eminently faithful is he considered. This curious exercise is continued perhaps for half an hour at a time, untU, indeed, it would seera as if their very lungs would be ejected. The chief participates in the whole of the exercises, being sometimes on his feet, and then on his sheepskin, in different parts of the room, to urge and incite thera to perseverance. It raay be said with great truth, indeed, that, physi cally speaking, they are earnest labourers in their vine yard. Besides this, they are in the habit of inflicting wounds in their bodies by different instruments, with a view to make a raerit of the suffering and torture they are able to endure. They have two days of worship in the week, one on Tuesday, the other on Friday. The latter, being the Sabbath of the Mussulraen generally, is the best day for witnessing these performances. 438 CONSTANTINOPLE. From the tirae of Mohammed, one of the favourite amuseraents of the sultans of the Ottoman erapire has been archery, and the late potentate kept up the prac tice of a long line of his predecessors. He devoted two or three hours of two days of each week to this recre ation. With a nuraber of his court, he proceeded from his suramer palace by water to a certain spot, then rode on horseback to the high ground back of Staraboul, which has been used for this purpose for raany centu ries. This he did without any regal porap or parade. Indeed, it was known by his subjects that he wished now to pass incognito araong them ; and to such a great degree did they conform to this wish, that no notice was taken of hira by labourers and others as he passed by. Wishing to see hira in a state of ease and relax ation, and in sorae respects divested of the trappings and pageantry of royalty, we repaired to the place on the day and hour set apart for these arausements. No one was visible on the extensive hills but his court and at tendants, and a numerous guard stationed at a great dis tance frora his person, in order to prevent the near ap proach of his subjects, and no doubt, too, for his greater personal security. We advanced to the guard, and were iraraediately stopped, and informed that no one was permitted to pass that way, or come at all within the guarded limits. Almost as soon as we were stopped the sultan espied us, and, finding that we were Amer icans, ordered one of his attendants to come to us im mediately, and invite us into the enclosure. For this distinguished mark of courtesy from his sublime high ness, we were indebted to our much-esteeraed country- raan Mr. Rhodes, who was of our party. We passed, therefore, the guard at once, and were adraitted into his presence. He eyed us very closely, but we, of CONSTANTINOPLE. 439 course, frora dehcacy, did not approach too near hira, such being the etiquette of an Eastern court For an hour, perhaps, he sat as a European in a chair, sraoking his pipe in the shade of some marble steps, used as a convenience for mounting his horse. During this time his court and attendants were exercising their skiU with the bow. At length they ceased, and the sultan rode a splendid Arabian horse to the spot, threw off his cloak and cap, and commenced the exercise hiraself Such an archer I never saw ; such skill and strength as he displayed I probably shaU never witness again. The trial was how far an arrow could be thrown with the wind ; therefore it was one of pure strength only. It was truly astonishing to see how much he exceeded the others, though aU were practised and skilled in the art His arrows outstripped all the others considerably, and the last whicli he shot was at least fifty yards in ad vance of any that had been thrown by his friends. He shot only six arrows, and as he drew the last bow we went to see the spot which he had reached. A white handkerchief was wrapped around it where it stuck in the ground, to indicate to hira the distance it had gone. When we arrived to the arrow, a nuraber of his attendants had coUected about it, and I expressed a wish to have it to take with me to Araerica. As usual, to see the master-arrow, the sultan soon came np on his charger, when AH Bey, a distinguished Turk who is constantly about the person of his highness, told him of my desire to preserve it, upon which the sultan directly ordered him to present it to me. This arrow is now in my possession, and is a raost beautiful and perfect specimen. The late sultan was a man of about ray own size and age, with a black beard, and mustaches about two inches 440 CONSTANTINOPLE. long, and was habited in European style, with blue frock- coat and pants, with the exception of the red cap upon his head and a fan in his hand. " He wore over his dress a rather short olive cloth cloak, which set very gracefully upon hira. As he passed we pulled off our hats and waved them valiantly, to which he returned a gracious smile. He was an intelligent and very fine-looking raan. In various directions upon these extensive hills are erected marble piUars, to commemorate the achieve ments in archery of himself and predecessors. From what we have been told. Sultan Mahmoud exceUed thera all in the distance to which he could throw the arrow. He appeared to be a favourite with the people, and was on the throne a period of near thirty years, longer, I beUeve, than any of his predecessors. His ap pearance was uncoramonly coraraanding, and his coun tenance indicated character and intelligence. On every Friday (their Sabbath) he used to go in state to a raosque ; and generally, on the Asiatic side, in suraraer, he repaired to a sraaUer one, not very distant frora his suramer palace. For this purpose he passed some distance either up or down the Bosphorus by water, and on landing, rode on horseback to the place of worship. Such a pageant, such a truly Oriental and fairy scene, can scarcely be imagined. The magnifi cence and massive richness of the state barges far ex ceeded, in reality, all the gaudy and florid descriptions that language can possibly convey. Three immense barges made up the group. That in which the sultan went much exceeded the others in dimensions, and was a little in advance of the two that accompanied him, one on each side. They were all rowed by a large num ber of expert oarsmen, and were canopied over with rich silk and gilded drapery. Within were sumptuous otto- CONSTANTINOPLE. 441 mans, sofas, and cushions, loaded with golden orna ments, glittering Uke a raagic scene of enchantraent in the sun and on the waves. " The barge he sat in, like a burnish'd throne Burn'd on the water : the poop was beaten gold ; Purple the sails, and so perfumed that The winds were lovesick with them : the oars were silver ; Which to the tune of flutes kept stroke, and made The water which they beat to follow faster." Three or four of his favourites accorapanied him. The other barges contained the rest of his court As he landed upon the wharf a band struck up a peal of excellent martial rausic, and between a long Une of sol diers he raounted a noble Arabian 'horse most richly caparisoned. A number of his ministers rode by his side and behind him, and thus they proceeded to the mosque. A group of military officers in full dress were also at the landing-place ; and directly, as he raounted his horse, they all bowed their heads alraost to the ground as he passed. There was no shouting, no noise — but the rausic. The Turks never remove their caps as a mark of respect ; but if any Franks were about or near, it was expected of them to take off their hats. From the time he left the palace until he entered the raosque, there was a thundering roar of cannon frora aU the ships-of- war, and also from a great number of pieces placed on the heights around. It is a most noisy, blazing, and smoking time indeed, but the spectacle altogether is one of the raost iraposing and grand that can be imagined. When he returned from the mosque to the palace, it was by some private way, unobserved. In aU this multitude not a female was to be seen ! Poor woman ! What a disgusting and degraded state she is in, in this land of Mohammedanism ; and so long as this continues, so long will man continue ignorant and K K K 442 CONSTANTINOPLE. debased. It is humiliating and painful to the greatest degree to contemplate the degraded light in which they are looked upon, but more so to witness it They^ are never seen in places of worship ; nor, at the houses of the best Turks, do women ever make a part of the so ciety of the raost intiraate friends of their lords and masters on any occasion whatever. Never have I seen an instance of one of their women riding with their husbands. The woraen are in public invariably alone.. If it is discovered that any improper intercourse has taken place between a Turkish woman and a Frank, it is certain death to her, and either death or the most igno minious punishment to the man. The woman, without judge or jury, is sewn up in a bag, by order of the hus band, and thrown into the Bosphorus. If the Christian religion had no brighter star to rec- oraraend it to the adoption and practice of aU the na tions ofthe earth, than that of giving to lovely woraan her proper, just, and noble elevation in society, this alone would entitle it to universal sanction and adoption. Every raan in every country, who raisuses and abuses this best of gifts and most precious of treasures, ought to, and will meet, at an early or a later day, with justice retributive and raerited. Devoutly thankful I am, that the lot of our countrywomen has not been cast in this benighted land. The Arraenians and the Greeks, who profess a modification of the Christian religion, ought assuredly to hold up to general detestation such unrighteous and unnatural treatment of woman ; but, frora what I have heard at Constantinople, they are not entirely exempt from the influence of bad examples. The religious tenets of the Arraenians permit them CONSTANTINOPLE. 443 to have only one wife, and they admit thera into their teraples of worship in a gaUery, as the Jews do ; but the galleries of the former are closely grated, so that you cannot distinguish a feature of their faces. After the men have got through with their religious exercises, some of the feraales come down into the church below, and manifest their coramunion and fellowship by kissing a book in the hands of the officiating priests, and then kneel before the altar. They are all covered with the disgusting habihraents of the Turkish woraen. The laws, moral and ecclesiastical, which bind the sexes in these churches, I very much fear, are too lax and inse cure, and particularly so among the Greeks. Scutari is a fashionable resort in the summer after noon for the richer class of Turks, where they are seen lounging in their carriages and eating ice-cream. We have before spoken of the ordinary description of wheel ed vehicle or clumsy-painted cart in which the women are seen riding. The better description of this machine, in which the rich ride, is seldom seen except at Scutari, and differs from the coraraon kind only in being more fantastically ornamented with red silk, gilded and carved work, and other trappings, and sometimes also with pre cious stones. This is also drawn by a couple of oxen. THE BOSPHORUS, BLACK SEA, AND DANUBE. We took our leave of the Ottoraan capital on the 20th of July, and proceeded in an Austrian stearaer through the Bosphorus to the Black Sea, which latter we crossed to one of the raouths of the Danube, and thence continued up that noble river, one of the longest and largest in Europe, stopping at Galatz, in Moldavia, on the European side, where we were not perraitted to land, and frora thence pursued our course, touching at many towns on the Turkish side, with which we had free intercourse, and, after a voyage of twelve days and nights, we finally reached our place of destination, Or sova, on the extreme limit of Hungary. The whole Bosphorus, from Constantinople to the Black Sea, is one of the most beautiful routes we ever passed. On each side there is a succession of mount ain, and green vaUey, and villas, presenting bold, richly- variegated, and picturesque scenery. The progress up the Bosphorus is slow, in consequence of the very strong and rapid current which coraes down frora the Black Sea. On reaching the Black Sea we were struck with the dark colour of its water, and think it very appropriately named, when corapared with the appearance of other seas that we have voyaged in. It is certainly of a rauch blacker hue even than the broad Atlantic, and contrasted still more forcibly with the light-green waters of the Mediterranean. THE BOSPHORUS, ETC. 445 Our voyage across this expanse was pleasant, with the exception of one day of blowy weather, when we had a short and rough motion of the waves, and when raost of us, and even those who had thought theraselves tolerable sailors, were unpleasantly disturbed. Three or four days, however, put a period to our in conveniences frora this source, and brought us to the mouth of the Danube, which, from the well-known ex trerae length of that river, we found rauch narrower than we had anticipated, which is explained by the fact that the Danube, Uke the Nile, has a Delta, or several raouths. The generaUy low and raarshy character of the banks of the Danube, through the several hundred railes that we ascended it from its outlet, presented a very unin teresting appearance, and denoted the unhealthiness of the whole of this extensiveregion, ofthe truth of which we afterward had fuU confirmation in the sickness of sorae of our party, who were severely handled with re mittent and intermittent fevers. On our left we saw the extensive range of the high Balkan Mountains, where the Russian armies, a ie'w years since, raet and defeated the hordes of the sultan, and drove thera beyond Adrianople. The Turkish, or left side of the Danube, in ascend ing through its whole extent to Orsova, is far raore in teresting, and in a higher state of cultivation, and pos sesses a rauch greater nuraber of beautiful towns and viUages than the Moldavian and Wallachian. The nu merous minarets and mosques on the Turkish banks strikingly contrast with the raore humble and unob trusive Christian temples on the opposite side of the river. Contrary to our expectations, the Turkish territory 446 THE BOSPHORUS, ETC. seemed evidently to present, in its advanced state of agriculture and general appearance of comfort, a much higher degree of civilization and social improvement than had been attained by their Christian neighbours. Through the entire extent of Moldavia and WaUa- chia, the bank of the river is guarded every mile or two by a mUitary post, to prevent the landing of traveUers and the introduction of merchandise, and thereby to ex clude the propagation of the plague, the inhabitants of those regions fully believing in its contagious character. Many of these miUtary posts are surrounded by ex tensive raorasses, which have the appearance of cane- brakes or rushes on our American rivers ; and, to judge from the look of the soldiery and the inhabitants on both sides the Danube, and their pale and cadaverous complexion, we have no doubt that they suffer, most of the time, from the effects of malaria, which must exist in great abundance throughout the entire route to Or sova. Yet, notwithstanding the general marshy char acter of its shores, this river has a strong current, which is a great irapediraent in ascending the stream. Our steamer, owing to the comraenceraent of the rapids some miles below Orsova, could not go up to the landing-place, and we were towed up along the Turk ish side in a kind of scow, frora which we occasionally landed for exercise, but always at the point of the bay onet, being constantly under the escort of a raUitary guard, to prevent our running ayvay or the plague running out of us ; but their kind protection was the raost dis agreeable plague we had to contend with. Overjoyed as we were on again putting foot on Christian ground, we could not help at tiraes exhibiting raore or less hilarity, and now and then laughing out right at the mummery of this rigid surveillance upon our THE BOSPHORUS, ETC. 447 persons and effects. As often as we did so, however, the ludicrous character of the scene was heightened by the pompous solemnity with which we were restrained by our guards often actually charging bayonet upon us to keep us in file, and at the same time taking care to preserve themselves at the other end of the musket at due pestilential distance. From Orsova, as soon as we landed, we were dehber ately marched off to prison in military style, where we were to remain ten days, to go through the ordeal of pu rification from the pest. It amused us much to observe with what care we were prevented from coming near the very oxen that drew our baggage to the quarantine establishraent The raoment we approached thera the guards were on the alert, and interposed their sticks and guns. In the language of this country, we were not fit to raingle even with the beasts, being considered our selves as pestiferous. The general idea in the East is, that the pest is received, carried, and spread raost read ily by dogs, cats, and all sirailarly-clothed animals, in which category, it would seera, are included the poor oxen. The quarantine establishraent is about half a mUe frora the little town of Orsova, and is a large range of buildings, surrounded by high walls and guarded by sol diers. Orsova is in Hungary, about a mile from the frontier of WaUachia, and is directly opposite the king dom of Servia, which is the last of the provinces which are tributary to the sultan. Servia is so far independent as to have a prince of her own, who is under the sur- veiUance of Russia. She professes a form of the Chris tian religion simUar to the Greek Church, but strangely pays a tribute to the Ottoman Porte. On arriving within the enclosure of the lazaretto, the 448 THE BOSPHORUS, ETC. doctor presented hiraself, but kept us at a respectful distance with his cane, considering us, no doubt, as dara- aged goods. He only touched our passports with the end of his stick when they were held up for him to read. This formahty being ended, we were shown into our prison apartraents ; ior prison it was in truth. We were locked up in one roora, with a raan to guard and attend to us, and were not allowed to take a step out of the enclosure without hira. The windows, moreover, were grated with iron bars ; and the window of the room in which I was had additionally a wire network outside the bars, to prevent the occupant frora taking improper lib erties with several provoking bunches of delicious-look ing grapes that dangled down and nearly touched the grating. It was something new in my history to be put under lock and key. At regular hours we were locked in like convicted criminals, and had only the liberty of our rooras and a small court in front of thera. The morning after our arrival, we stood at the gate of our apartments, and put our noses between the bars to snuff up some of the pure and free Hungarian air outside ; but it was a squeezing experiment, though a very common and natural one, for all poor prisoners situated as we were. At first we were all ordered to occupy one smaU roora, being told that there were no others vacant While viewing this apartraent, and debating upon the inconveniences of such close confinement, itself alraost sufficient to generate a plague rather than to disinfect us of impurity, my German servant Henry, observing our dissatisfaction, went of his own accord in search of the doctor ; and, having made hira acquainted with my name, the doctor emphatically asked him if I was Dr. THE BOSPHORUS, ETC. 449 Mott from New- York; and, being inforraed that such was the fact, he expressed his utter astonishraent that I should have got into such a box, and remarking that he was perfectly farailiar with my professional character, returned iraraediately with my servant to introduce him self As he now approached my prison-ceU, he pulled off his hat most graciously, and I the sarae with raine, not wishing to be outdone in courtesy, even in a prison, as it is always ray rule to perrait no person to excel rae in politeness. He told rae he was rejoiced to find in rae a brother chip, and one with whose narae he had been familiar for years through the Gerraan medical works. He very politely requested me to foUow him, saying that he would give rae the very best apartraents in the estab lishraent He iraraediately conducted us to a different part of the buUding, where I was furnished with a room to myself, one for ray corapanions, also a kitchen, and a large roora for the unpacking and airing of our bag gage, and the accoraraodation of our considerate Henry, but for whose thoughtful attentions and knowledge of German we should have had nothing but the hard fare of common criminals. During our whole confinement afterward the doctor visited us daily to inquire after our health, and to know if we were well taken care of which we in truth were; our accommodations now, both in respect to food and lodging, being in every point of view comfortable. Attentions under such circumstances can never be forgotten. A friend in need is a friend indeed, as the homely but excellent proverb has it ; and I must take this occasion to express my deep thanks for the very handsome and kind manner in which the physician of L L L 450 THE BOSPHORUS, ETC. the lazaretto at Orsova welcomed the wearied strangers from the East, and mitigated, and almost made them for get, their prison confinement Having corapleted our quarantine of ten days, we took leave of our exceUent friend the doctor, who cor dially shook us by the hand and wished us a most happy voyage, expressing a hope that we should meet again. Having one day now to spare before we were to set out for Vienna, we took wagons from our hotel, and proceeded through a most charraing ride of picturesque mountain scenery, and, at the distance of ten railes, reached the town of Mahadia, one of the raost fash ionable watering-places in Hungary. Here we met a great deal of the best society of Hungary and other parts of Europe. The waters are thermal and chalyb eate, and the arrangements for the baths delightful. I never visited a raore beautiful place of the kind than this. The accoraraodations of hotels and private houses were of the very best description ; the fare, to us par ticularly, after our perils and sufferings, most luxurious ; and the lovely and rora antic drives, and shady prorae- nades, and gravelled walks, all that the raost fastidious taste could possibly desire. It was, in truth, coraing off our severe journey, a Paradise to us, and we passed the day raost deliciously, forgetting all our past troubles, and revelling in the raidst of rausic, beauty, and en chantraent of every sort. In the evening we returned reluctantly to Orsova, and prepared for our departure early the next raorning. We started accordingly, in an open wagon, and pass ed over the mountainous region of upward of 20 miles in extent, and through which the Danube penetrates by a gorge not dissimilar to our Highlands of the Hudson, THE BOSPHORUS, ETC. 451 being the only raountain spur through the whole extent of this father of European rivers. Through this pas sage, caUed the Iron Gate, the entire river is corapressed into whirling rapids, raaking it impracticable and unsafe for steamboats either up or down. Occasionally the inhabitants venture down in flat-bot tomed boats, much to their peril, as frequent fatal acci dents have happened; and it was here recently, and since our visit, that some of my countrymen, attempting to pass in this manner, on their return from a tour to the East, raet with a premature and watery grave ; a mourn ful termination to overtake thera, just as they were com pleting, no doubt, their long journey, and about to em brace their kindred and their friends. After a most deUghtful ride over a very costly and beautiful road through the raountains, a part of which is close to the raargin of the river, we reached the Danube again above the rapids, and there took stearaboat, and, after visiting Pest, the capital of Hungary, and also Pres- burg, we arrived at Vienna in a v^oyage of about ten davs. Recruiting here a few days, and revisiting all the more interesting objects of the Austrian capital, we re turned, in a rapid journey of ten days, to Paris. Thus, at length, was our long and somewhat perilous tour of six months in the East brought to a close, and I was again once more restored to the society of ray fam ily at their residence in the French capital, and which, as my head-quarters during six years' absence in Europe, had become to rae, in every sense, a second home. The feeling of joy and thankfulness that this happy issue produced cannot weU be conceived. Contented and grateful I am, that Providence has permitted me to traverse so wide a range of countries, and brought me 452 THE BOSPHORUS, ETC. unharmed through so many perils ; that, exposed as I have been to the baneful influence of various climates, and even also to the dreaded pestilence of the East, I have been, through His raercy, preserved frora them all. For this favour, and for all the blessings I have con stantly had sprec).d before me, at home and through life, may I never cease to feel grateful. THE end. New-York, 1842. BOOKS PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, FOR SALE BY THE PRINCIPAL BOOKSELLERS THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES AI^D THE CANADAS. ALISON'S HISTORY OF EU ROPE.— History cf Europe from the Commenceiaent of the French Revolution in 1789 to the Pres ent Time. By Archibald. Alison, F.R.S.E. In 4 volumes Svo. [In press.] MOSHEIM'S ECCLESIASTICAL HISTORY.— Mosheim's Institutes of Ecclesiastical History, Ancient and Modem. 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