.'¦' \^> /*! 22t . 76 84 N.E. 7 84 90 N.E. JJ 23t . 74 84 N.E. 8 84 90 N.E. ?; 24 . 78 82 S.W. 9 76 88 N.E. )j 25 . 84 86 S.W. 10 74 82 N.E. » 26 . 84 92 s.w. 11 76 82 N.E. J) 27 . 84 90 s.w. 12 74 84 N.E. 'J 28 . 84 88 s.w. 13 82 84 N.E. ?? 29 . 80 88 s.w. 14 . 72 82 N.E. » 30 . 80 86 s.w. tHigh winds. 15 , 72 82 N.E. THE GOVERNOR OF NAGASAKI. 21 one of the side-posts. The gate, once shut, can only be opened after the permission of the Ottona has been obtained, as this town counsellor is an swerable for any riot or disturbance, theft or crime, that may be committed mthin his ward, and not only the Ottona, but aU his famUy also are responsible. Passing then through sundry gates of this kind, at some of which I fancied my Yakonins * and interpreter were chaUenged, we arrived before a handsome flight of stairs, at the base of which were two magnificent camphor trees. It is the custom when officers of a certain rank risit the Governor, or when Daimios risit amongst themselves, to throw open the great or centre door, but this honour was not paid, untU lately, 'to foreigners. I beUeve it was an American or Eussian officer who first kicked through this Une of demarcation, and the Consuls have ever since insisted on the great gates being opened to them. This iniportant piece of etiquette haring been attended to, the Consul, vrith his interpreter, enters the low but clean abode of His Excellency. At the vestibule, a few subalterns, lazily and with undisguised indifference, salute thefr entry, and usher them to the ante-chamber, where the Go- * Yakonin, generaUy an officer with two swords ; but known to the foreigners as, or supposed by them to be, a govemment officer of the police, or custom-house. A yakonin is understood, in fact, to represent a paid officer of the Japanese govemment. c 3 22 INTERVIEWS WITH vernor himself ought to meet them. The Vice- Governor approaches and shakes hands, and pre sents the great man himself.* After a few bows and fewer words, the Governor requests the Consul to enter the audience-room, weU screened off, except towards the garden, where there is a little pond with water-lilies and another species of NymphEea. All round the room is suspended from several screens, an awning of white grass- cloth, with the trefoU upon it f ; and over this we often caught glimpses of eyes which certainly were not those of men, and heard rustUngs which were not those caused by warriors or swords. Women are curious even in Japan ! Tea, pipes, and cake are then served ; afterwards a quantity of dishes ; but whenever we went on business, we contented ourselves with a cigar, and went tq work at once. The object of my first visit was to complain that having written seven letters I had received only very unsatisfactory verbal replies. I tried to explain that every official letter required an official reply. This was promised ; and this pro mise was kept ; for the next day a long letter * The govemor of Nagasaki, Okabe Soelogano Kami, was a small man, but a clever and intelligent govemor ; popular, I under stood, with his countrymen. Kami means noble, not princely. t Before the Government-house there is generally spread a grasa- tree or linen-cloth, which means to say, " No admittance except on business : " the "moon " or crest has much the appearance of our clover leaf, and is the " moon " of govemment. THE GOVERNOR OF NAGASAKI. 23; (that is, long from its envelope, which was at least tlifrteen inches in length) came open and without address, to the Consulate. Of course it was returned as it was sent ; but within a few days, seven separate answers, to the seven official letters, duly signed and sealed, were sent in. My second visit was to exchange 500 dollars for the " Sampson," on her return from Yedo. This was a grave business : there was not an itzabou in the Treasury, paper-money in quantities to any ainount : would twenty sUver itzabou do ? As a favour he would give fifty. The Vice-Go- vemor hinted, that, in the course of a few days, perhaps 100 might be raked up out of the empty vaults of the "Goyoso."* Obdurate man, I frisisted on having this change. Before I could obtain it, however, I had to argue it three hours, and then it was proposed to send the whole amount to the Consulate in copper pieces, caUed " Tempo's," about one penny each. 1 asked for a few sUver corns, and before 3 P. M. on the * " Goyoso " is the Japanese name for Custom-house or Town- haU : where aU the foreigners do their business ; and here only can the foreigner see officials. This has also since July 1st, 1859, become the Treasury. t " Tempo," a handsome copper coin, -with a square hole in the centre for a string to pass through ; when I arrived at Nagasaki I obtained fifty-two tempos for one Mexican doUar. When I left Japan in October, 1860, the treasury at Hakodate gave us still fifty-one. c 4 24 JAPANESE OFFICIAL POLITENESS. same day, I received my fuU exchange of five hundred dollars in silver. I suppose some mfracle had occurred in the Treasury, or His Excellency had in the mean time become pleasant. The Japanese never lose their temper. Before hand they generaUy know the object of a Consul's visit, and have made up their minds as to the result. Their only plan of warfare is to tfre us out, and refuse as long as they can ; and when that wUl no longer succeed, they yield with as good a grace as possible, expressing their regret, perhaps, that they had not weU understood the meaning of the demand before. The Govemor and his immediate staff are al ways excessively poUte, but they rarely laugh. To aid inteUect (not that it is much requfred), they have a knack of perpetuaUy turning the head upside dovra, or turning it on one side, and seeming to be thinking deeply. But this is only a " ruse : " they are far too sharp to be taken in — too clever to be duped. They know the Treaty word for word, and have it at their fingers' and tongues' end, both in Japanese, EngUsh, and Dutch. After an interview, the Governor conducts the Consul to. the ante-chamber, the Vice-Governor to the vestibule, and the other officers make a bow, when each party retires. One account of these visits wiU describe aU. DUTCH SETTLEMENT. 25 The other visits were fac-similes of the two I have mentioned, although the subjects treated upon were very different. I was very much surprised to find out, however, that what I supposed to have been a confidential talk, was within a few minutes of my departure made known almost ver batim to the Dutch and American Consuls ; in fact, that a secret conference with the Governor was instantly betrayed. It might have been natural for the Japanese to take counsel together with their older acquaintances, the Dutch ; but although our Treaties were the same, or by the favoured-nation clause might at the Consul's wish become so, yet our interests at Nagasaki were at first pecuUarly different. England was entering on the scene, Holland had been fixed there for centuries, and had long out standing claims to satisfy. Desima was almost a part of Holland, and the Dutch had valuable property upon it — houses, stores, &c. Of course at Kanagowa and Hako date both nations would begin the race on an equality. The Japanese officials then, imme diately, sought the Dutch settlement to announce the matter of our conferences and to ask advice. The interests of the United States apd Great Britain were the same, but it was somewhat ridi culous to hear my coUeagues, whenever I went in the fulness of confidence to teU them the result 26 JAPANESE LACQUER WARE. of a debate, announce to me thefr perfect cog nisance of the whole already. I suppose the Japanese wished to know the feeUngs of each Consul on any subjects of alter cation ; whether they were all unanimous on the point, or whether there was a difference of opinion. The Japanese are exceUent diplomatists, and have evidently studied Machiavel ; for, as in the case of the money for the " Sampson," they can and do most unceremoniously and unblushingly declare a fact which is not the reaUty, stick to it manfully through thick and thin, in the hopes of carrying it through ; and attack, retreat, recapitu late and yield mth the most becoming and natural grace in the world. After aU thefr persuasion and eloquence has faded to substantiate a good honest " equivoque," (which in thefr opinion is the ne plus ultra of inteUectual superiority,) and they find the plain truth is a more sure and successful weapon of defence, they give in, laugh, sip their tea, smoke a pipe, and are ready again. The exports from Nagasaki are considerable, and will probably before long be enormous ; for many of the articles are quite essential to our Chinese neighbours, and others are greedUy desfred in Europe. The lacquer ware, made at Nagasaki, is of the very commonest description, showy and of bright colours, but wiU not last, and the lacquer it- ITS DIFFERENT QUALITIES. 27 self wears off very soon. StiU some rare old pieces are now and then to be met with. A French lady wiU rarely wear false lace, or imita tion " guipure," as she would be in a perpetual fear of detection, and would be almost ashamed of being seen with it ; in fact, I beUeve she would rather go without any than wear what was not real. So with the lacquer ware of Japan ; the common people use the commonest kind, the mer chants and middle classes content themselves with an inferior quaUty, but a Governor, Daimio, or any gentleman, has none but the very best, and would be ashamed of using any but good, sound, simple, but handsome ware. It requfres some time and habit to distinguish between good and bad lace. At first aU appears aUke, and the inexperienced would have great difficulty in making a selection ; but practice makes perfect ; so also with the lacquer ware of Japan. On our arrival we bought any thing, and thought it lovely, but when the first appetite for novelty was satiated, then we began to make compa risons : then the Governor, or some officer would make a present, which had no gaudy colours, but was soUd, richly embossed, and l)ore the most minute criticism and examination ; in fact, it was perfectly finished. By degrees, the eye becomes accustomed to old laque, and we smUe at the ignorance of the new 28 VALUE OP LACQUER WARE. arrival, who is generaUy tempted by the brilUant colours, as we were before him. Old laque is, Uke good lace, inimitable ; but an experienced con noisseur can at a glance pronounce upon its merits and reaUty. It is very difficult now to meet with a good old specimen; the market is stocked fuU of modern work, made expressly for Europe. Now and then, however, a Daimio, very hard up, or a courtesan in temporary embarrassment, sends secretly from Yedo a choice piece for sale, and it is astonishing to find the enormous price it has reaUsed. Twenty, forty, sixty sovereigns or more are given for an old box not a foot square ; but the sale is tacitly interdicted ; indeed it is almost as disgraceful for a Japanese to part with old lacquer ware, as it is for an English gentleman to dispose of his family plate. The laque is vegetable : it is the sap or juice of a very handsome tree, Ehus vernix, which I trust to see before long in the Eoyal Gardens of Kew, if it be not there already. But the manner of preparing it, and the mode of applying it to the perfection of those exquisite old specimens is, and is Ukely to remain, a secret for a long time.* The bark of this tree, on being cut, yields a white mUk, which becomes black on exposure to the * As one of the ingredients in its preparation, the oil of the " Bignonia tomentosa " is employed. JAPANESE PORCELAIN. 29 afr : the leaves, petals, and nearly every part of the tree yield also the same liquid. I have known many hungry and persevering inquirers after the truth, but they have not suc ceeded in discovering it ; which is to be regretted, as we might, in Europe, make improvement even on what appears matchless. The Japanese wiU not paxt with the secret — indeed, Uke the free masons', I fancy it is lost in the dim ages of my thology. K secret there is or was, it is lost to us and themselves, for the modern laque is such a wretched imitation of the ancient, that it is very difficult to admit that the same composition could have produced the two quahties. Ordinary laque has the consistency of treacle, and much the same colour; the first coating is thin and yeUowish, the second of a brownish tinge, and the last (as I have seen it employed on my own furniture) a bright mahogany. Though Eubens is charm ing, he does not equal Correggio, nor can Dela roche for a moment be compared to Eaphael ; equaUy great is the difference between new and ancient lacquer ware : though both are beautiful, one is exquisite. The porcelain made at Nagasaki is solid and at the same time elegant. It is a government mono poly*, I beUeve. To procure a service for twelve * I may be wrong in saying that porcelain is a govemment monopoly ; it is a monopoly nevertheless to the best of my be- 30 JAPANESE CLEVER IMITATORS. persons, the permission of the authorities is or was required, and then, an ordinarUy handsome one would cost at least 10^. The Japanese can imitate any thing : an EngUsh cup and saucer with handle, a soup-tureen, a vase, or a candlestick; but they are rather ex orbitant in thefr prices. In the shops, however, one meets with large round dishes *, bowls, cups, vases, Uttle teapots, inkstands, salt-ceUars, hand some square dishes and plates, and saki bottles f, lief; but the great Daimio of Kiiism, the Prince of Fizen or Fidzen, is the proprietor ; it is in his territories that aU the fine specimens we purchase at Nagasaki are manufactured ; and I also believe that the very best china and porcelain in all Japan is made in his principaUty. * I saw one large dish, or " grand plat rond " at the house of the Dutch Commissioner. I think I do not exaggerate when I say it was more than a yard in diameter. f In these days of photographs, talhofypes, and " cartes de visites " one sees one's portrait everywhere, either on the -window of the engraver or stationer, or on the table of a friend; but, as in Japan, we have no photographers, I may safely say that the portrait of my -wife was the first portrait of an European lady that ever figured on the outside of a Japanese saki bottle. Such, however, is the case : the wretch, who followed her about evei-jrwhere on the day we first landed, was, as I afterwards dis covered, an artist of celebrity. He devoted his energies and talent to produce a miracle, and much to his credit he succeeded, for the portrait is hideous, and as much like the original as a butterfly to a salamander. But I suppose he was the editor of the Nagasaki " Charivari," and made his fortune by the caricature, which, I ani assured, figured not only ih saki bottles, but in many other equaUy fragile specimens of art. How the Prince and Princess of Fizen must have laughed ! The word " Charivari " reminds me, that in Japan, the ladies, although they all seem dressed alike, take EGG-SHELL PORCELAIN. 31 of all variety and colouring, which are reasonable and weU worth purchasing. But what pleases the foreigner most, and what he immediately purchases, are those apparently fragUe and sweetly pretty Uttle egg-sheU porcelain cups, with saucers and covers, so thin and trans parent that he is afraid to touch them. Still, not withstanding their deUcate form, they are very strong and wiU stand almost as hard a blow as our common chinaware. There are some curious drawings on most of them ; but here, as in thefr picture-books, it behoves the purchaser to be very particular in his selection. A set of these, for a tea or breakfast serrice, cost in our time from 30s. to 11. Old china, Uke old laque, is rare at Nagasaki ; the lover of an tiques should delay his purchases until he visits Yedo, or Kanagowa, where he may sometimes meet with unique and rare specimens. There are few other curiosities to be found at Nagasaki.* The ivory earrings, bronzes, and other in their " Joumal des Modes " or " Magasin des DemoiseUes," and receive by it the last fashions from Yedo ; and they -wiU talk about these futilities -with as much zeal and interest as any of our English and French ladies. * I omitted to mention those exquisitely worked basket cups : the thin porcelain is bound by a fine net- work of cane or young bamboo, so neatly woven that the -meshes are imperceptible. There are some grosser specimens of this workmanship, but the weU-finished platting is inimitable. The origm of this beautiful texture was, no doubt, a protection to the fingers of tea-drinkers : 32 SILK, — RICE. — COAL-BEDS. " biblos," * aU come from Osaka and the interior, so that, when the Port of Hjogo shaU be opened in 1863, a rich store of valuable and eccentric novelties may be expected. But lacquer ware and porcelain form a very in significant part of the productions of Kiusiii. Eich and common silks, tea, camphor, isinglass, soy, vegetable-oU, Japan wax, copper, &c. find thefr way to the European marts dfrect. Coral, dried fish, sea-weed, bees-wax, Awaba and Erico (b^che de mer and sea-slugs) mushrooms, ginseng, gaU-nuts and vermiceUi are some of the articles which go to China, and they generaUy produce very profitable returns. The rice of Japan is perhaps the most nutritious in the world, and, though forbidden to be exported (as is also wheat) under the seventh regulation annexed to our Treaty, yet a considerable quantity of both has been bought, when the Treasury thought it convenient or feasible to seU. The coal-beds of Japan are yet in their infancy and unexplored, but they are supposed to be rich and extensive ; and when the shortsighted jealousy of the Japanese government shaU wear away, wht^n they wUl aUow British enterprise and pluck to and many are so well done, that they appear to have been painted on the cup. * Biblo, a French word, comprehending in its meaning any thing, and aU things which have no use, but still are curiosities or ornaments, and bought as such. HARBOUR OF NAGASAKI. 83 be free- to go beyond the ten " ri " stipulated upon by treaty, or when some more enUghtened Daimio may take it into his head (a case not improbable) to conclude a distinct and separate convention Arith one of the powerful nations of the West, then this necessary principle of locomotion vriU be de veloped, exhumed, and perhaps sold at the pit's mouth for the same price it is now bought in the black fields of England. Engineers have hitherto vainly endeavoured to obtain permission to examine the beds : no shaft has yet been sunk. All the coal which has hitherto been bought and sold has been purely superficial, yet many of the experiments already made have proved to be satisfactory, though others have not fuUy answered our expectations. The harbour of Nagasaki is weU fortified, and if as weU defended as armed, it would be able to give a very warm reception to any fleet or squadron which should dare to pass by Papen berg.* It is so long since I left Nagasaki, and so many changes may have taken place smce I left it, that what I do venture to say is under reserve, for what was conjecture then may now be clearly known. Moreover I have no maps or * Papenberg is the island so famous or rather notorious as the spot where so many Christians, Portuguese and Japanese, were so barbarously murdered, D 34 HARBOUR OF NAGASAKI. books of reference with me, so I trust to memory alone. From Papenberg the riew of the Nagasaki inlets is exquisite. Earely exceeding a mUe in breadth anywhere, innumerable Uttle capes and promontories shoot out on the sea, covered to the very lowest edge with the most luxuriant foUage and verdure ; whUe above, before, on aU sides and even behind (when the ship is once withm Point Daiba) mountains and hUls, clothed to the very summit, seem to have rescued a lovely lake from the stormy ocean. At the end of the harbour the masts of vessels may be distinguished ; as we approach, the huUs, then the town, at the " embouchure " as it were of a broad vaUey. On either side are two smaUer but picturesque Uttle bays, one of which, to the east is, or is to be, fiUed up and become the Euro pean settlement. But to reach the anchorage a ship has had to pass close to Nasowmasama, Point Daiba, and the Uttle capes and promontories I have afready men tioned. On aU these points and headlands are batteries with many guns, good heavy pieces of artUlery. And thefr number is stated to be close upon three hundred ! a khad of DardaneUes to Estamboul. From the centre of each deep vfrgin forest masked batteries would vomit forth their thunder, and whde the narrow channel would FIRST FEATURES OF NAGASAKI. 35 occupy the attention of part of the invading force, these innumerable hornets would keep the remainder in actirity. The channel is deep ; steamers therefore and Lancasters might laugh at the demonstration ; but the channel is narrow also, and I should prefer many other places in the world to the deck of a saUing ship whdst beating its way up to the an chorage. I beUeve (though the popidar opinion is against me) that the Japanese are brave, and that they would man those guns ; that they would load and fire them with precision ; and if we expect to see thefr officers run away Uke Chinese mandarins, we should be very much dis appointed. For besides their cannon they have other arms — muskets, swords, and revolvers, and better than aU these, union and " le feu sacre." But let us hope that our " Treaty of Peace, Friendship, and Commerce " wiU not require such a solution. The Japanese Government, and the Prince of Fizen, are both very jealous of foreigners visit ing the islands at the entrance of Nagasaki harbour. Captain Page, U.S. corvette " Germantown," very kindly lent me his " gig" and crew of seven men for a day's sheUing. Accordingly 1 puUed out with my wife, my chdd, and maid-servant, to the D 2 36 HOSTILE DEMONSTRATION. island of " Tsimbo," and landed upon it, leaving the sailors to amuse themselves as they Uked. I had not advanced far, before I perceived a crowd of persons, soldiers, men, women and children, rush mg down from the wooded hiUs above us, as if with intention of cutting us off from the crew, but they were disappointed. For it appears the men in the gig had afready risited this island, and had not been particularly pleased with thefr recep tion. They had, therefore, kept a watch upon us, and had observed the movements of the Ja panese, and arrived just at the right moment with thefr arms. I was unarmed, and had been busily engaged up to my knees in salt water and sea-weed, but we thought it prudent to re treat, which we quietly did, to the mainland of Kiusiu. We found few shells and fewer stUl worth pre serving, but several plants of great beauty. In deed, I should say the flora of Nagasaki was highly interesting ; but 1 had no time for botany, and even had I been more at Uberty it was far too sultry and oppressive. We found the tea-tree everywhere. The cameUia, azaUa, bryonia, ricia, salvia, rhododendron, rosmarinus, bignonia, oxaUs, orchis, hibiscus, euphorbia, mimosa, convolvulus, myrtle, verbena, cineraria, lobeUa, potentiUa, saxi frage, are amongst the few ofwhich I coUected spe cimens ; but I do not love snakes, and every even- GIANT NETTLE-TREE. 37 ing I went ont so many of them were about, that I was in everlasting fear of a cold damp garter at taching itself to my ankle. So I determined to give up botany until I reached Yedo. In AustraUa I nearly feU a rictim to my love of flowers and trees, being almost stung to death by a too familiar approach to the giant nettle-tree. At Nagasaki also I got into a scrape vrith the " Ehus succedaneum," or vegetable wax-tree leaves, which bUstored my ignorance and face in the most un becoming manner: science is only to be pur chased by study and experience. I spoke about the conduct of these islanders, and was told in reply that the Prince of Fizen had fortified it, and did not like strangers wander ing about it ; and when I asserted that it was ¦vrithin the ten "ri" from Nagasaki, it was ad mitted, and a Idnd of apology was made, by as suring me that it was only out of curiosity that the Japanese had come down to see' us. We finished our day's sheUing under the guns of Cape Kibateh, with a soUtary crow for sen tinel. I do not remember meeting with a single ¦wUd animal in Nagasaki. Of rats there were plenty ; of snakes, centipedes, and Uzards any amount ; and of butterflies a brUUant display ; but then there are flowers ; and, as every flower there has its insect, a naturalist might find enough to D 3 38 THE "HIGHFLYER. gratify him, were he only a botanist and ento mologist. But the steam is blovring off — I look out of my verandah — and I see Her Majesty's ship " Highflyer." She has arrived to take me and mine to Yedo and Hakodate. EXCURSION INTO THB INTERIOR. 39 CHAPTEE ni FIRST EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR. British Consulate, Hakodate, Jidy 16, 1860. Mt DEAR Sir, As 1 think a few lines giring you some ac count of my two excursions may not only please you, for you know aU my companions, but in terest others also, especially Sir W. Hooker, I burn a little " vegetable oil," and notwithstanding the music of some dozens of pariah dogs, and a concert given by Dowager Lady Eat to aU her connections and friends, and that on a thin wooden ceiUng over my head, 1 wiU teU you aU I re member. On the 14th of June I left Hakodate for my first inland excursion. Since October 15th, 1 had been a prisoner in consequence of snow, business, or other not too agreeable occupations ; but the weather was fine, my port so triste, no ship, and my wife and child were wanting a change of air. I fortunately found M. Mermet, a French abbe o4 40 START POR THE INTERIOR. and gentleman, to accompany me, and Mrs. Hodg son prevaUed upon the wife of our Eussian doctor, Mr. Albrecht, to join us. Thus, vrith my maid, I had a party of two gen tlemen and four womankind, including a chdd. 1 had all my Japanese servants vrith a red belt, bearing Her Majesty's arms, around them ; and trusting tb that symbol of peace, I went unarmed, my only weapon being my court sword, which of course I had a right to carry, although of no use for attack or defence, I was not quite sure of the result or the success of my expectation with so many petticoats in train ; but Church and State have always sup ported Great Britain, and so they wiU, please God, in Japan. Thanks to the commissariat, I had an unUmited supply of horses; and as I thought they were doing thefr duty quite as efficiently, when carry ing two ladies, a maid-servant, and a Uttle chUd, as cropping grass at Her Majesty's expense and doing nothing else, I took them. Had Her Majesty seen her subjects, and how kindly they were received by thefr new friends, slie would not have scolded me, if even one horse had come back sore-footed, which, happUy, did not occur. To see us start in my temple yard with the two glorious flags of Great Britain and France BOTANICAL GARDEN. 41 floating together Uke two brothers, or brother and sister, there were several hundred Japanese, but there was no intrusion ; curiosity and respect only. Mrs. Hodgson, Mrs. Albrecht, M. I'Abb^ Mer met de Cachon were on horseback ; Eva, my child, and Sarah, our maid, were in norimons, and altogether we formed a party of forty persons. Of course, I took with me provisions, beds (i. e. blankets), and all the necessaries 1 could think of ; for having been in AustraUa and Abyssinia, I am rather conceited as to my powers of making up a party ; and so we started. The horses were not accustomed to lady amazons ; they refused to bear their precious weights, and it requfred aUthe care of the "bettos" (grooms) to lead them ; but we got to Kamida by 10 A.M., four nules, and thence we started off, after seeing our party all together ; and ready it was a proud sight to see such a specimen of chivafry. Our first halt was at about fourteen mUes, at the botanical gardens, where the Emperor's doctor, with several other medical officers, showed us aU honour ; " we quaffed our tea and were as merry as could be." All the plants that medical science could bring together were here to be found ; students were studying ; many acres were devoted to the pro- 42 KAMIDA. pagation of vegetable and medicuial knowledge, and much kindness was manifested, and an earnest .desire to give us thefr riews, and to receive ours in* return. It was not Kew Gardens, but it was a deUghtful incipient nursery, wherein nearly aU countries found some representatives. We then proceeded about six miles more, and thanks to the Governor of Hakodate, who knew of my intended journey, I was honoured with a pathway of sand whereon to walk from my horse to the hotel, as is the custom for high officers, so that their feet may not be soUed by the mud or other stuff. We had five rooms, one looking on a good garden, very pretty. Our great pastime was the exchange of a doUar into cash (5320 pieces of iron money) ; and these we threw amongst the folk, who scrambled eagerly for them, much to our deUght. Of course the ladies and chUd were the chief objects of curiosity. The Mayor came to offer us his house ; but we were afready established and thanked him ; but this showed kindness on the part of the autho rities. The next morning at seven we started again, and mounted a hill, almost a mountain, for it must have been nearly 1200 feet high, still going north. The FOREST TREES AND FLOWERS. 43 scenery was exquisite, and after the snow and prison of Hakodate made one feel alive again. Chestnut, oak, pine, beech, sUver bfrch, elm, cherry, prune, dwarf oak, elder, sycamore of several varieties, catalpa ? magnoUa, platanus, these were some of the natural beauties that nature offered us after our escape from our long imprisonment ; and was it not a bouquet ? The under-ground was strewn with dwarf roses (scented), honeysuckles, orchis, convaUarias, as in Lincolnshire, major, minor et minimus ! of many varieties and in vast quantities, potentdlas, vines, and many kinds of clematis. In fact, I was so unexpectedly bewUdered by aU I saw, that I ready must return soon to have a more cool idea of this beautifid scenery. I had scarce reached the summit of the hUl when " I looked me do^vn where a hundred realms appear, — lakes, forests, plains extending wide." The panorama was reaUy grand. In the distance, about twenty-five mUes off, was the volcano, the end of our journey ; below us an enormous lake which had once been perhaps the crater of a vol cano also ; around us not the Alps or Pyrenees, but deUcious green-clad mountains ; and there cer tainly was enough to ravish the eye and warm the heart. This was a long day : we had to descend the 44 MOUNTAIN SCENERY. mountain to the lake, and then take an easterly course for nearly twenty-five mUes through vfrgin forests, plains, some morasses to give excitement to enchantment, and a most singular mass of pyramidical monticules, eridently the result of volcanic action, untd we arrived at the lake, where, through the goodness of the Emperor's doctor, we were again kindly received and welcomed. Our hut was very tiny, consisting of two rooms, one about eight feet square, over the lake and running stream ; this was for the ladies, chUd, and maid. The other room, somewhat longer, was drawing- room, dining-room, and bed-room for the gentle men. But, with the exception of the vUlage at the Botanical Gardens and the smaU town where we slept, we had seen no trace of civiUsation ; a few charcoal-burners only were met with, and I could not help thinking it was time to open to Christians this unsealed volume of love. Not a human being on the road, and yet so near two large cities as Matsumai and Hakodate ! In the night-time we were desired to fire guns (which my Japanese servants carried for the pur pose) to frighten away the bears. Two of our horses broke their tethers, but perhaps it was from the carelessness of the grooms, and not the presence of bears, for we had enormous wood fires burning to keep off these carnivorous ani- VOLCANO, 45 mals, who had, two nights before, demoUshed the horse of a Japanese officer, Saturday, the 16th, was "a great day intfrely," as Paddy would say. We started at eight o'clock to mount the volcano. No European had ever been up it, and even Japanese fear it, as demons, Manfreds, and MephistophUes are alone supposed to inhabit it. Ladies, vrith thefr delicate feet, were to be the first to ascend this object of Japanese terror. There was no lava, no scoria, but a sulphuric rock, easily pulverised, and Uable to detrition, painful to walk upon ; but the ladies gallantly held on, and said they would " do it," and they did do it ; although I must confess that, perhaps from helping them, or want of exercise, I was nearly beat ; but they did it, and weU were we aU re warded. I calculate the height at 1760 feet : the crater is about 1000 yards across, about 250 deep. There were five considerable sulphurous geysers burning, and some thfrty cUminutive attempts at combustion, around an amphitheatre ready not unlike the CoUseum at Eome, and one old peak sitting sUently and grandly above aU, thinking, perhaps, what aU his chUdren were doing below to overturn him, which they seem inclined to do, for sulphur has as violent and strong passions, I fancy, as humanity. 46 VOLCANO. Here we drank a bottle of claret and water to " absent friends," and returned rather tfred to the lake. They took us rather more than five hours. Please remember we were the first to ascend this volcano, and had our own route to discover, For the future, people may say it is quite easy, but they wUl have had the road opened to them by ladies. One gentleman, who has since fol lowed in our steps, but who has long been in classic Italy, declared it to be nothing, yet was obUged to adopt Horace's adrice to traveUers, " altius ac nos Praecinctis unum," for he went up in the very Ughtest dress possible, and then vrith some difficulty reached the top. The sulphur is far from pure, though the mines are being worked, not by volunteers, but by con victs, who do not, poor feUows, Uve long. I can not describe the debris, but I remember that Vesuvius is black, and this is white, and very painfriUy so to the eyes and ladies' complexions. Our next day was Sunday, a day of rest ; but we could not resist taking the only boat there, and making an excursion on the lake. I reaUy beUeve that European ladies have planted thefr feet where never yet even the native scions of Yezo have been, and have bathed in waters which legends people with monsters. The lake is studded with innumerable islands, EXCURSION ON THE LAKE. 47 and if a couch covered with moss, ferns of aU beauty, orchis, lUies of the vaUey, clematis, honey suckle, an umbrageous " parapluie " of chestnut trees, and the others I have afready mentioned vriU tempt you to take a cigar with the tempt ing houris of Hakodate, you might leave even your diplomatic labours for a moment, and visit us, and then you shaU see them, and I feel sure you wiU be deUghted. Every island was "baptised," "Victoria," "Eugenie," "Marie;" and although I have seen many cUmes and countries, I never saw anything to surpass the virgin mag nificence of tliis lake and its islands. Byron ought to have seen them before he wrote his " Island." Again rumours of " bears," but none to be seen. On Monday we started homewards, but not quite by the same way. We, however, reached the town where we had slept, on the 14th, late at night ; and there I thought our journey was over for this time ; but I was traveUing with ladies, and, as you know, they are masters on such oc casions. So the iiext morning, M. Mermet haring gone in advance, to my horror and astonishment, being ahnost beat, they proposed a risit to the " lead- mines," a day's excursion of' itself almost. I was duU of comprehension for some time, but it would not do : so we searched for a buUet, not knowing 48 LEAD-MINES. — YEZO. the word for lead, but found only some shot. We thus explained, in exceUent Japanese, our vrishes to our servants, and off we went to the " lead- mines," which we reached by a most deUghtful route. What I also can assure you is, that the Japanese officials received us most kindly, and showed us everything to be seen ; and were, as everywhere on our journey, most attentive and poUte. You have seen the " lead-mines," and wiU be glad to hear they are working them, and making a road to further the " exploitation : " and so I must conclude ; leaving my second journey, more interesting perhaps stdl, if this has any interest, for a second letter. We aU arrived safe, weU, and pleased after a six days' journey unarmed, with women and a chdd, no officers or servants but my own ; and were everywhere treated not with respect only but cordiaUty. Yezo is a nutsheU, rich in the interior, I be Ueve, but not known even to the Japanese out side. AU round the coast are innumerable fishing viUages, but I do not beUeve there is in the island a city, town, or vUlage of importance five mUes from the coast. My second party was amongst the "Ainos," with I'Abbe Mermet, and Mr. Cowan. To Rutherford Alcock, Esq., Jedo. SECOND EXCURSION. 49 SECOND EXCURSION. British Consulate, Hakodate, July 24, 1860. My DEAR Sir, I finished my last voyage on the 19th ultimo. On Wednesday the 27th I started again, on a second cruise, haring stdl Her Majesty's horses at my disposal. There was no chance of a ship. We had been, in vain, waiting for one for the horses ; and so, leaving orders for an express to follow me, should a ship arrive, I left with Mr. Cowan and M. lAbbe Mermet. Up to the lake described in my last letter, the route was the same. From that spot we went northerly some few miles, but the scenery we passed through was, if possible, more deUcious than that of the lake. Certainly, this time we had not the society of ladies, and we were stUl un armed. I had beforehand told the Governor that I was intending this cruise, and he made no ob jection to it. Beyond the lake for several mUes, no terraced avenue, no ducal or royal park, could equal the scenery. A lake below, mountains from 600 feet E 50 FOREST TREES AND PLANTS. to 1400 above us ; within our reach, the graceful and pendulous branches of weeping-birch, ash, platanus, vine, beech, &c., each striving to kiU the parent tree, bowed down before us, as if to give us a welcome ; and then, the sturdy old oak was there, and the horse-chestnut was in bloom, not as at Hampton Court perhaps, but stUl it reminded us of home and of our gracious Queen's mother's residence, and I could not help thinking so, and of that iUustrious lady. The umbrage, if I may so caU it, seemed to welcome our arrival ; it actuaUy made apparent reverence to us, or, at least, we might imagine it : for ready, to see aU Nature bowuig down, as we did, over the pathway of unknown and unheard- of risitors, was a welcome of Nature to Chris tianity, — so I, poeticaUy, thought it to be. The underground was of dwarf oak, ferns, roses, myrtaccEe, and many leguminosas, which I cannot here describe. Then the orchis, of all plants the dearest, several "mimosse," calytris (on the sand), " Dodongeas," " Hakeas," and a creeper almost like the sensitive plant (M. sensitiva). Our first halt was at a viUage, "quod versu dicere non est," about twenty mUes from Hako date in a straight Une, We were most kindly received everywhere, and here we entered the first " Aino " vUlage. As I said in my last letter, the interior of Yezo AINO VILLAGE. 61 is an unknown country even to the natives, oc cupied by its pristine owners, the bears and deer only ; for I observed no roads or footpaths branch ing off either to the right or left, and we had as frequently to go on the sea beach as on the cliffs or downs above us. At the entrance to the first " Aino " viUage, heads of bears formed, if not a noble, a suitable " barriere ; but there was no " octroi " to pay. For ages, the sfres, grandsfr-es, and progenitors had staked these proofs of thefr valour before their huts. You wUl excuse me, if my Japanese servant dared to take one tooth for you, but I left some thing in its place that I dare say they Uked just as weU. Would that I could draw or paint ! but, un fortunately, I do not possess that talent, or I should have had many an interesting sketch to show ; for on our arrival with some eighteen horses, the astonished vUlagers stood aghast, and thought we were sprites or demons from the vasty deep, and thefr affrighted countenances were worthy of painting. Along the pathway, for it was only a narrow path, where one or two horses could go abreast, these despised of Japanese cringed, men, women, and children (to my horror and disgust) before us. They squatted down ; and as we passed put E 2 52 THB AINOS. thefr hands to the ground, and then, with due reverence raised them to thefr heads, in token of deep respect and submission. Many an itzabou the chUdren got in the queen's and emperor's name from aU of us. The " Ainos " are, I understand, the despised aborigines of Japan ! Thefr number does not to-day exceed 80,000 ; but, if one were to take the head of a Socrates, or other leamed Greek, into one's hands, and give him a long black beard, with long black hafr, not scrupulously neat or very clean, and then clothe him in nature's garb, sim pUcity, you would have some idea of an " Aino " man. They are strong and muscular ; but they are despised as Jews are by the Axabs ; yet, in my own poor opinion, they are as fine a race as most demi-savages. The women have a proftision of black flowing hair, combed " long, long ago ; " thefr appearance is not the most cleanly, but they seemed so humble that we pitied them. Barring this long hafr, with its untidiness, they (the ladies) have a tattoed upper and under Up, beautifuUy blue : it might please the poet, not the man. Long hafr un combed for ages, and blue tattoed Ups, are not the most inriting or most pleasing, — so I thought at least. These poor people do not speak Japanese ; even my servants of Hakodate could not converse with A VOLCANO. S3 them ; but I wish I could speak their language, and then no doubt I should find brave hearts beat ing beneath brawny chests. They Uve entfrely on fish and herbs. At every few mdes you may meet an " Aino " settlement, — ¦ boats, nets, and all the concomitants of a fishing viUage. Many are employed by Matsumai and Hakodate merchants to obtain fish for oil, and they gain one whole penny a day ! but to these simple folk that is enough, perhaps. On the 28th we proceeded onwards, meeting the same race of people, but no Japanese, except officials. I calculate we went about thfrty mUes due north from Hakodate. A fine beach at low water, and a bri(Ue-path- way above at high water, were the only roads ; and I fancy they are the only roads in Yezo, broad enough only to let a norunon or sedan-chafr pass easUy along. There were no shells on the beach, but before us, some forty mUes, was another volcano, which I estimate at 6000 feet high. This appeared to be in action, and was, from its whitish colour, pro bably sulphuric. The flowers about us were dwarf roses, which almost crimsoned the earth, tigridias, crmums, and several myrtaceae, also the elegant Parnassia, and many, to us, new plants. E 3 54 HOSPITALITY OF THB NATIVES. The rocks we met with were few ; but there was quartz (rarely) and black sand, then yellow ochre and ferruginous earth, some specimens of granite, but not scoria or lava, which much astonished me. Every one on the way showed us great civility and attention. The best houses offered us, the chief officers came to see us (perhaps from duty as weU as curiosity), and we were never molested by any one. Wherever we stopped, "tea," "tea," and "swee1> frieats," were immediately placed before us ; and you may feel assured that our party acknowledged thefr kind offerings by some smaU present. I have inadequately described our trip. On the 28th we retraced our steps. On the 29th, at the top of the lake, or rather the mountains which surrounded it, I received " in a large cigar-box," a Uttle note from my "vrife, saying that Captaui Colrile, H. M. S. " CamiUa," had arrived. I there fore left my company as abruptly as I leave you, wishing for " good news from home," which I knew your kind care had not forgotten to for ward me. My impression is stdl that the interior of Yezo is uninhabited except by bears and animals ; and that the natives are ready icthyologists, vege tarians, and dwellers on the sea-shore. I would add, before closing this letter, one THIRD EXCURSION. 55 remark, which is tius, that, although it may not be in your day or mine, the forests of Yezo contain aU the woods necessary for the fleets of any coun try; and, please God, thefr undeveloped riches wdl, imknown even to the natives themselves, become most valuable exports by and by, to the advancement of our reUgion and commerce and to our mutual happiness and benefit, — things most ardently to be desired. For then our treaty wdl be a treaty of friendship, — ay, of real friendship and amity. * To Eutherford;Alcock, Esq., Jedo.'; THIRD EXCURSION. British Consulate, Hakodate, August 13, 1800. My dear Sir, As I hope that my two letters describing my voyages of the 16th and 24th ult. may, more or less, have interested you, I vriU now give you a short account of my thfrd voyage. Before aU, you must remember that I am un armed, except the guns which my Japanese carry to shoot or frighten bears, and go back to Hako date, if so cUrected or requested by the governors, to whom I announce my departure generaUy the day before. E 4 56 YENANAI. On Friday the 27th, after office-hours, I left the Consulate with my constable and six Japanese servants. Instead of going roimd the bay, which would have taken us a whole day, I took my boat, and, after two hours' puUing, we arrived at Yenanai about sunset. Yenanai is on oiu" charts, but I differ much vrith Mr. Eichards and others ; I consider the Bay of Hakodate at least six mdes across, nay, I am pretty sure it is. Yet many wiU prefei-, perhaps, Mr. Eichards' and the American surveys to my conjecture. There are, moreover, cuiTents in the harbour ; if the Avind sets in strongly from the south-west, the entry is difficidt even for junks and open boats. I had sent our horses round to Yenanai the same evening ; but the wind blew, and the rain feU in such avalanches that it was only at 11 a.m. on the morrow that I dared to put my nose out of my wood and paper-hut. 1 thought even ram (with a waterproof coat) was preferable to six feet square, with paper windows, where at each moment kind but curious hosts were "en surveiUance," and, to the horror of aU my party, I said, " En avant ! marchons ! " This voyage confirms my account of others, — Japan is a nut-sheU. The sea-coast at divers inter vals is inhabited ; at every point, bay, or promon tory, a vdlage is to be seen. In the interior (where I hope soon to go), I fancy stiU that there are no BEAUTIFUL SCENERY, 57 roads, for I saw none branching off, Japan is, in fact, a nation of " pecheurs," The Japanese live on vegetables, rice, and fish, — and even to see a cow mdked, it wounds their pride, and I fear their hopes of heaven. We slrirted the coast, every now and then moimting a Uttle hiUock, and so varjdng at inter vals the route. The land is rich, but cultivated only in patches, few and far between, — ^potatoes, beans, peas, a Uttle rice and rye or wheat ; but at every house was a pretty Uttle garden, consisting of some eight or ten trees or plants, aU taken great care of, but aU " contrefaits " by age and art. The distant hdls, clothed to their very summits, and, I shoidd think, about 700 feet high on an average (although some peaks might