YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Bequest of SINCLAIR LEWIS Yale 1907 GOV. JOHN BURKE HISTORY OF THE RED RIVER VALLEY PAST AND PRESENT Including an Account of the Counties, Cities, Towns and Villages of the Valley from the Time of Their First Settlement and Formation BY VARIOUS WRITERS IN TWO VOLUMES VOLUME II ILLUSTRATED HERALD PRINTING COMPANY GRAND FORKS C. F. COOPER & COMPANY v CHICAGO 1909 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Ames, Francis W 690 Arnold, H. F 646 Austinson, A. T 838 Bogstad, Prof. R 816 Bruce, Andrew A 974 Burke, Gov. John Frontispiece Buttz, Maj. C. W 784 Cashel, J. L 680 Cavanagh, Dr. J. E 984 Clifford, George B 992 Concordia College 812 Davy, W. H 830 Deacon, William S 958 DeReemer, J. B 1002 Grand Forks, Looking North 616 Gray, A. H 700 Gronna, Asle J 670 Hallock, Charles 938 Hassell, L. K 624 Hedenberg, R. R 848 Konzen, Peter H 944 LaMoure, Hon. Judson 664 Larimore, Newel G 638 Mackall, B. F 806 Mahon, John 654 McDonald, Donald 1060 Merritt, W. H 1068 Nash, William C 868 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Nelson, Edward 924 Nelson, E. A 930 Nisbet, Thomas 602 Norman, M 630 Northwestern Hospital, Moorhead 820 Nyvoll, Rev. J. A 824 Peirce, Joseph D 1082 Perley, George C 1024 Pugh, Thomas H 1040 Richardson, L. B 1090 Rounsevell, Dr. A. P 1094 Sandager, AndreAv 730 Sehroeder, Henry 792 Scott, J. W 592 Sharp, Hon. James H 800 Shirley, H. L 910 Spriggs, William 610 Strandness, S 1116 Sundberg, Hon. B. E 884 Tandberg, Nels 1120 Terrett, J. H 1012 Thompson, Peter 826 Titus, S. S 584 Tofhagen, Amund C 672 Wheeler, Edwin J 1144 Wilder, Frank 1150 Winterer, Herman 704 Wisner, V. S 1050 GRAND FORKS COUNTY 581 The First Settlement. We have now arrived at the period when settlers began to occupy the west side of Red river with the intention of establish ing permanent settlements. With the spreading of the incoming population over the North Dakota side of the valley, this work is not specially concerned, excepting in so far as this immigration was confined to the limits of Grand Forks county with its present boundaries. That subject will presently be given considerable attention, since county histories, at least in the western states, are mainly concerned with settlements, phases of life and the progress in different decades of their material development. As viewed from the historic standpoint, Grand Forks county, relative to its progress for the last thirty years, may be said to present the following points as characteristic of this compara tively brief period : Here was made the second settlement, so far as the occupation of a townsite is concerned, of white families in the state ; the first was made at Pembina by a part of the Selkirk colony about 1813. During the first seven or eight years of the period referred to, the settlement of the county progressed in a slow and fitful manner, not much advancement being made within that time to any particular distance west of Red river excepting up the course of Goose river. In the meantime, conditions were such that the agricultural development of the county was being held in abeyance. During most of this interval the history of the county is chiefly bound up in that of the settlement at Grand Forks. When, finally, its interior portion began to be occupied by the incoming settlers, it was along the timbered streams and not upon the open prairie that these earlier locations were made. Then, from one to two years later, a movement west from Grand Forks began by which the prairie lands were rapidly taken, this westward advancement of population being through the central part of the county, but with considerable deflection in some locali ties north and south of the course of the main movement. In 1880, the year that the railroad development of the county began, immigration into it commenced in earnest, the floodtide reaching had been quite generally overran and the most of its vacant lands high- water mark in 1882, so that by the year following the county 582 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY filed upon. Toward the end its settlement progressed with accel erated rapidity. Within about ten years after the initial settlement had been made, the railroad development of the county was begun and was completed to its present mileage in a little more than seven years. Within this second interval the existent towns and vil lages of the county, built upon these lines, had their beginning and have been gradually building up since that time. The city of Grand Forks, especially, has made phenomenal progress since becoming a railroad center. Since 1882, yet more particularly within the last dozen years, the farms, generally, have been un dergoing improvement, increasing in respect to what is really substantial valuation, and the aggregate wealth of the county has also increased until it is now rated as one of the wealthy ones of the state. Though considerable was brought in, the most of this wealth has been created here. Since the county was overrun by settlers, or what is more to the point, since the last decennial census, its gain in population has resulted more from what is called natural increase, and from the building up of the towns and peopling of the same by later comers than from any further occupation of land or division of farms into smaller holdings. Since 1883, speculation has sub sided, society crystallized, education advanced and existing con ditions along all lines have had time to become long and firmly established. Before speaking of the creation and organization of the county, it will be in order at this point to take a glance at the conditions existent here about the time that the first settlement was made within its present boundaries. We have only to go back about thirty years. In the case of counties originally well for ested, and which contained swamps and small marshes capable of being drained, the changes that have been wrought in their phys ical aspect within thirty or forty years after settlement have often been of a very marked character, but with counties like Grand Forks, the changes, though considerable, are more of a superficial nature, the result of town and other building, railroad construc tion, cultivation of land, planting of artificial groves and hedge rows on the farms and shade trees in the towns. GRAND FORKS COUNTY 583 Aspects and Conditions in 1870. There being no great amount of timber land in the county in comparison with its area, the greater portion of it lay in 1870 as wild prairie land exists in its primitive state. The natural prairie grass was short, only attaining a height suitable for use as hay in moist or wet places where there had been some gathering of the waters when the snow melted. Of wet, sedgy places, occupying shallow depressions of the prairie, there were then a far greater number of them than there are now. Interspersed with the. prairie grass there grew quite a variety of botanical plants, many of them of the flowering kind. The buffalo had but recently dis appeared and had not been gone long enough for their walloAvs to have become grassed over or their trails obliterated, but the elk, antelope, coyote, fox, etc., still remained as denizens of the country. The gopher was not abundant, for the coyote and fox thinned their number. Thus these prairie lands lay vacant, awaiting the coming of the settler and the touch of the plow. There were then no claimants to the limited tracts of timber that border the interior streams of the county. The timber was more or less clogged in places, with the floatwood and flotage of these watercourses, the fallen and dead timber, vines and under brush, and occasionally there were to be found a few fire-scarred and blackened trunks of trees still standing Avhere they had grown. There were then to be seen in places along the streams the worn trails of the buffalo, where they had wended their way down the slopes to drink or to cross from the prairie on one side to that on the other. Where the banks were steep the herds made use of the coulees that occasionally occur in such places, in their movements in and out of the stream valleys. Followed upward, the trails were soon lost on the prairies, and upon any of the slopes they were deepened somewhat by winds and rains at the time that the buffaloes used them, and not wholly so by the treading of the animals themselves. In the spring and fall, wild fowl of all kinds that were birds of passage to this region, paused for awhile in and around the ponds and marshy places of the valley plain and higher back country, in large numbers, and with little probability of being 584 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY disturbed by man, though it should be said that Indians and half- breeds occasionally visited the county during their hunting expe ditions, but at that time there were but few even of these. In the same year also, there were a couple of cabins of white men at the forks of the river, the only habitations in the present county, and a well worn cart route passed the same point, the timbered banks of the stream each summer being made resonant with the noise of trains of the creaking Red river carts of famous memory, mingled with the oaths and shouts of the drivers. There was plying on the river in those days a single steamboat — the International — owned by and operated in the interest of the Hudson Bay Company. During the spring, when there was a good stage of water, the boat sometimes went up stream as far as Fort Abercrombie in running between Fort Garry and any of the up-river points, and later in the season only as far as George town. In the fall, when the water ran low in the Goose rapids, she only ran up as far as Frog Point. The boat Avas then making as many as three trips each season and the cart brigades but one. The Old Cart Trails. There were three cart routes or "half breed trails," as the early settlers called them, that crossed through different parts of the present county. The river route has already been referred to. It was one of the cart routes from Pembina and Fort Garry to St. Paul and later to St. Cloud after that place became a railroad point. It followed the general trend of the river, of course, cut ting off the bends. It was already old when Griggs and Vaughn first saw it in the fall of 1870, and it probably dated from the early 'forties if it was first struck out by the independent traders of Rolette's time. At all events, it was no recently marked way when Major Woods and Captain Pope followed its court in 1849, and the mail appears to have been carried over it ten years later than that date. In 1870 it was a well worn trail. "Hundreds of carts in summer and dog-sleds in winter traveled over it, ' ' writes Vaughn, and at the close of the preceding part of this work an other old timer has mentioned what impressed himself concerning it during the same year. Next in age was the old Georgetown trail that passed through GRAND FORKS COUNTY 585 the western part of the county. This had been abandoned for several years when first observed by the settlers who had located in that section, and it was then already grass-grown. It followed the loAver slope of the uplands through this county, at least to a considerable extent, if not wholly so, and on account of avoiding such wet or sedgy places as existed toward the western side of the Elk valley, then occurring more frequently than now. This trail led from Fort Garry to Fort Abercrombie, thence to St. Paul by one of the Minnesota routes that have been mentioned. A branch trail, or cross-cut, from Georgetown ran northwest through parts of Cass and Traill counties, intersecting the inland trail, and together these formed a continuous route between the George town and St. Joseph posts, thence to Fort Garry. Hence it came to be called by the early settlers of Traill county, who found it still plainly marked upon the surface, the "old Georgetown trail." Charles H. Lee, of Walhalla, the compiler of the "Long Ago" sketches, writes to the author : ' ' This trail, I think, was opened up about 1859. Mr. J. F. Mager, now a resident here, came in over that trail that year with his father, and he states that it was not a trail at that time in the proper sense of the word, as it was hardly discernible and, at points, would have been lost entirely but for the knowledge of their Indian guide." The reason why this route was opened so far west of Red river was probably due to the fact that in spring and early summer the route near the river, in some places, became well nigh im passable. On that account a more dry route upon higher land was desirable. In 1870, men with teams, materials and supplies were sent from Fort Abercrombie to re-establish Fort Pembina. Some were sent down the river by flatboat, but one party, which included about twenty-five carpenters, were obliged to proceed by the back country route. At first they traveled by way of the trail along the river, but this being found impassable for the many loaded teams accompanying the party, a detour was made and the more Avestern route was struck at Maple river. The third one of these cart routes that crossed the area of country now comprised in Grand Forks county appears to have been a cross-cut between the river and inland trails and which formed a route from the Hudson Bay post of Goose river (now 586 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY Caledonia) to St. Joseph and Fort Garry. This trail led in a northwestern direction and passing the "lone tree," it crossed Turtle river at the Newell C. Morgan place, thence bearing west- by-north it recrossed the stream near the line between Elm Grove and Hegton township, and intersected the other trail some dis tance north of Elm grove. The "lone tree" is a large cottonAVOod in Section 21, Blooming toAvnship, and is now surrounded by smaller ones of the same kind. In the old days it stood as a land mark to travelers coming down the trail and going to Turtle river and the section around Gilby. Now the halfbreed trails were unlike those worn upon the prairies by the settlers in using the common farm wagon. They consisted of three separate and closely parallel paths, each about sixteen inches in width, the outer ones being worn by the thick rimmed, heavy wheels of the cart, and the center one by the treading of the animals drawing them, both ponies and oxen being used and harnessed single between the phills of each cart. Thus peculiar roadways were worn upon the prairie surface by the passage of the cart trains that annually traversed these routes and the worn trails remained visible for many years after they had ceased to be used. The Creation of Counties. The territory of Dakota, which, as originally formed, extended from the state of Minnesota, as at present bounded, westward to the Rocky mountain divide, was created by act of congress shortly before the opening of the Civil War, the bill having been signed by President Buchanan on March 2, 1861, which Avas tAvo days prior to his being succeeded by President Lincoln. The bill had passed the senate February 26, and the house March 1. The newly inaugurated president appointed William Jaynes, of Illi nois, governor of the territory. He arrived at Yankton on May 27, 1861. The first territorial legislature, consisting of thirteen members of the house and nine of the council, convened at Yankton March 17. 1862, and held its session until May 15, folloAving. This body created four counties in what is now North Dakota, and which GRAND FORKS COUNTY 587 bordered on Red river. These were named from north to south as follows: Kittson, Chippeway,* Stevens and Sheyenne. Not a single county in either North or South Dakota now bears any one of these four names. There were no white inhabitants in any of these counties when they were created, excepting a few at Pembina and St. Joseph (now Walhalla) and the officers, soldiers and employees at Fort Abercrombie. They Avere never organized, and although they found a place on maps and in some of the school geographies of the next few years, nothing appears to have been done toAvard permanently maintaining them either under their prescribed boundaries or names. In 1867 a large county was erected out of the present eastern portion of North Dakota. It was named Pembina county, and the territorial governor appointed Charles Cavalier, Joseph Ro lette and Charles Grant county commissioners, who met and organised the county, August 12, 1867. The following county officers were appointed : John E. Harrison, register of deeds ; William H. Moorhead, sheriff; James McFetridge, judge of pro bate ; and John Dease, superintendent of public instruction. Pem bina was made the county seat. The tenth session of the territorial legislature convened at Yankton December 2, 1872, and continued its session until Janu ary 10, 1873. Among other acts this assembly passed a bill creat ing a number of counties in that portion of the territory now included in the eastern part of North Dakota. These Avere Pem bina (of less area than that of 1867), Grank Forks, Cass, Rich land, Cavalier, Foster, Ransom, LaMoure, Renville and Stutsman, with boundaries more or less different from their present ones. This act was signed by the governor January 4, 1873. Probably Judson LaMoure, who was elected the previous fall to the house, and Enos Stutsman to the council, both from Pem bina, were more instrumental in fathering the creation of these counties than any other members of that assembly, and the latter named gentleman arranged for the naming of them while stop- * Chippeway county took in all of Traill and Steele excepting tlieir south ern tier of townships, and all but the southern and western tier of townships in Griggs, likewise all of Nelson excepting its western range of townships, and Grand Forks county in its entirety. 588 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY ping at the house of Morgan T. Rich, the first settler of Richland county, on his way to Yankton.* Organization of Grand Forks County. In the act creating these counties commissioners were ap pointed to organize them. George B. Winship, John W. Stewart and Ole Thompson were named as the board of county commis sioners to organize Grand Forks county. No attempt to accom plish this end was made until July, 1873, when Messrs. Winship and Stewart met at the tavern or stage station kept by the latter gentleman at Grand Forks. As Mr. Thompson had refused to qualify as a commissioner, the other two designated 0. S. Free man as a third commissioner in place of that gentleman. After four days' session the work of completing this first organization of the county was accomplished and with the following result: Register of deeds and county clerk, J. J. Mulligan ; judge of pro bate, Thomas Walsh; county attorney and superintendent of schools, 0. S. Freeman. The other officers cannot now be so posi tively named, no record of their proceedings having been pre served, but probably Alexander Griggs was appointed treasurer and Nicholas Huffman sheriff. Alexander Griggs, M. L. McCor- mack and 0. S. Freeman were appointed a commission to locate the county seat, and they, of course, selected Grand Forks. t Thus the county was fully organized according to law in 1873. But owing to the apathy of the county officers and what perhaps was a more potent cause, the sparse settlement of the county at that time, the organization was suffered to lapse, which made necessary its re-organization the following year. Mr. Winship has stated that he does not believe that there were then seventy- five white men in the whole county. In the fall of 1874, the county was re-organized by the terri torial governor, John A. Burbank, who appointed a new board of county commissioners, to wit, David P. Reeves, Alexander Griggs and George A. Wheeler. Messrs. Wheeler and Reeves met at the residence of the latter commissioner (Griggs being absent) and completed the organization of the county March 2, 1875. The * The Eecord Magazine, September, 1896. t From data furnished by Geo. B. Winship. GRAND FORKS COUNTY 589 first officers of the county were : Jaines Elton, register of deeds ; Nicholas Huffman, sheriff; Thomas Walsh, treasurer and judge of probate ; George A. Wheeler, superintendent of schools ; Thomas Walsh and D. P. Reeves, justices of the peace. Thomas Campbell and James Mulligan were appointed constables and 0. S. Freeman, district attorney, but failed to qualify. The appoint ment of a coroner was deferred. Thus by the spring of 1875 Grand Forks county finally entered upon the period of its civil history as a distinct and organized division of Dakota territory. As first created, the county covered a very large area of the Red River valley, with a considerable extension into the higher country that lies to the west of the proper limits of the valley. It comprised .all of the present county, together with parts of Traill, Steele, Nelson and Walsh counties. As to the time when the confluence of Red and Red Lake rivers was first called Grand Forks, we find no mention; but while the locality was likely designated as "the forks" by the voyageurs of the fur companies, we suspect that the prefixed word did not long ante-date the settlement of the place, if at all. But it was applied to the settlement made there and afterward was also adopted as the name of the county. Traill county, formed from parts of Grand Forks and Cass, was organized February 23, 1875. The commissioners met at Goose River (now Caledonia) and proceeded to organize the county. Steele county was of later origin; it was formed from parts of Traill and Griggs and was organized June 14, 1883. In the year 1880, Grand Forks county was still one of the largest, if not the largest county in the territory of Dakota. It still in cluded the southern half of Walsh county, and its western border extended to the vicinity of Lakota. In 1881 two tiers of town ships were separated from its northern border and added to Walsh county which was created that year by being formed from parts of Grand Forks and Pembina counties. The county was organ ized August 30 of the same year. In 1883, townships in three ranges were also taken from its western part and given to the newly created county of Nelson, which was organized May 15 of that year. This reduced the area of Grand Forks county to its present dimensions. 590 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY Legislative and Judicial Districts. During the earlier years of Dakota territory, when the popu lation to be represented was sparse, the legislative and judicial districts were apportioned on a large scale. As the population increased and the counties were reduced in area by the creation of others, the districts became more circumscribed, but like the counties, they increased in number. In the case of the legislative districts, this resulted in a gradual increase of the members of the territorial council and house of representatives, but the dis trict judges hardly increased in like proportion. At every session of the legislature changes were made either with the legislative or judicial districts, or both, effecting their boundaries, designated numbers, etc., as new ones were created. We are only interested in those in which this county was concerned and can only indicate the general trend of matters. At first the eastern part of the territory constituted one legis lative district, the Fourth, called the Big Sioux and Red River district. The members of the first legislature were elected Sep tember 16, 1861, and Hugh Donaldson was a member of the house from Pembina that session. In the second session, which con- A7ened December 1, 1862, and held to January 9, 1863, James McFetridge was a member of the council and James Y. Buckman and Hugh Donaldson Avere members of the house. At this ses sion the Red River district was created. For one or two sessions thereafter this district was not represented in the legislature. Enos Stutsman came to the territory from Des Moines, Iowa, as private secretary to Governor Jaynes. After representing the Yankton district for several sessions during which period he was three times chosen president of the council, he took up his resi dence at Pembina and Avas sent to the house in the legislature of 1867-8, and was chosen speaker of the house. It was this legis lature that created the big county of Pembina. In 1877 the counties of Grand Forks and Pembina constituted the Eighth council district which was entitled to one member of the council. In 1879 the counties of Traill, Grand Forks and Pembina formed the Tenth district and Avas entitled to one mem ber of the council and two members of the house. In 1881 Grand GRAND FORKS COUNTY 591 Forks, Traill and Walsh were made to constitute the Twelfth district, the member of the council to be elected from Grand Forks county. In 1885 Grand Forks county Avas designated as the Nineteenth legislative district. Under statehood Grand Forks county is divided into three districts, the Fifth, Sixth and Seventh, and each is entitled to one senator and two representatives. For the townships and city wards that comprise each of these districts the reader is referred to the state constitution or to the Revised Codes of 1895. The territorial judges were appointed by the president of the United States, but the legislature created the judicial districts and made the frequent changes of subdivisions, boundaries, etc., that became necessary. The judges were also associate justices of the supreme court of the territory. It was then divided only into three districts. The counties comprising these districts were often grouped together in subdivisions and the terms of court held at some one designated place for each subdivision of a dis trict. In other cases single counties constituted a subdivision, if sufficiently populous. A North Dakota judicial district was created by the territorial legislature of 1870-1 and Pembina was designated as the place where the court was to sit. The first session was held there in June, 1871, Judge George W. French presiding. George I. Foster was clerk; L. H. Lichfield, United States marshal; Judson La Moure, deputy, and Warren Cowles, United States attorney. This was the first court held in North Dakota. Judge Peter C. Shannon succeeded French and held two terms of court at Pembina in 1872. Judge A. H. Barnes Avas appointed associate justice by President Grant in 1873 and held office imtil succeeded by Judge Hudson. In 1877 the counties of Cass, Stutsman, Richland, Ransom, LaMoure, Traill, Grand Forks, Pembina, Barnes, Foster, Ramsey, Cavalier, Gingras (now Wells), French (now Benson and Peirce), and Rolette constituted a large subdivision of the Third judicial district, the whole district then comprising nearly all of the area of North Dakota. The court for this subdivision was to be held at Fargo twice each year. In 1879 the district was made to com prise six subdivisions with as many designated county seats at 592 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY which terms of the district court Avere to be held. The county of Grand Forks singly Avas made one of these subdiAisions. It was while Judge Barnes was in office that the first term of district court was held at Grand Forks. In 1881 Judge S. A. Hudson became the incumbent of the Third judicial district, and held the office four years. He was succeeded by Judge William B. McConnell, appointed by Presi dent CleAeland, May 8, 1885. The Third district was still quite extensiA-e. In 1888 there Avere six districts; the northeastern counties, including Grand Forks, were now formed into a new district called the Fourth, Charles F. Templeton being appointed judge. Under state government the counties of Pembina, Cavalier, Walsh, Nelson and Grand Forks were designated as the First judicial district. In 1895 the three northern counties of the five just named Avere formed into a separate district, called the SeA7enth, Grand Forks and Nelson counties remaining as the First judicial district. Judge Templeton Avas elected to fill the office of district judge when the present state gOA7ernment was organized, was re-elected in 1892, and he Avas succeeded by Judge Charles J. Fisk, who entered upon the duties of his office January 4. 1897. United States Land Office. The *first United States land office in Dakota territory was opened at Vermillion in 1862. The first one established in North Dakota Avas opened at Pembina, December 19, 1S70. with George F. Potter, register, and B. F. Brooks, receiver. Its location being at the northeast corner of the territory and not conveniently situated, it Avas removed to Fargo and opened there August 1, 1874. Six years later a new land district was created in the northeastern part of what is now North Dakota, and the United States land office at Grand Forks was accordingly opened April 20, 1880, B. C. Tiffany being its first register and W. J. Anderson, receiver. Sections 16 and 36 of each surveyor s township are reserved as school lands. In this county these lands amount to 51,520 acres. In 1893 the legislature made provision for the sale or rental of the school lands of the state for benefit of the school fund. GRAND FORKS COUNTY 593 Population. When the United States census for 1860 was taken, there were no white inhabitants in the area now comprised in Grand Forks county. In 1871 there Avere about fifty at the settlement made that year at Grand Forks. The population in 1875 was some thing over 2,000. The census of 1880 gave Grand Porks county a population of 6,248 inhabitants, but probably about 1,000 of these were located in the southern half of Walsh county, then a part of this county. There was a territorial census taken in 1885 ; this gave the county with present boundaries, 20,454 inhabitants. The census of 1890 showed that the population was then 18,321. This indicates a considerable decrease since 1885, probably chiefly due to re-emigration. The present population is reckoned at 26,494. The Timber Settlements. Early in the pioneer period of this county, the Avay of the immigrant was doAvn Red river, at first from McCauleyville by steamer, stage or flatboat, and a little later from Moorhead and Fargo by the same means of conveyance. After 1877, many came in by way of Crookston and Fishers Landing, or by railroad to the latter point, thence by stage, steamer or other means of con veyance, to Grand Forks. Many others teamed through from distant points. In those days Grand Forks was the common gateway into the county. As has already been remarked, speculators covered some of the timber along Red river with script. Much of the timber between Grand Porks and the mouth of Turtle river was taken in that way. Fortunately for the county these non-resident per sons did not attempt to extend their operations up the courses of the smaller streams, hence it is upon these tributaries of Red river, probably without exception, that we find the location of the pioneer settlers of the inland townships of Traill, Grand Forks and Walsh counties. The timber settlers found the greater portion of the prairie land in the county vacant and as open to the mere taking by any 594 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY one class of men as by another, yet, being the first comers into the country back from Red river, and having a pretty free choice of location, they preferred making their homes on the streams and amidst the trees that cover their sloping banks and stretches of bottom land. They squatted or filed upon quarter-sections on which there was some show of timber, though their claims often included a considerable acreage of the adjoining prairie land. Claims wholly of prairie land were really more valuable in the long run and in after years many of these men realized that they had made a mistake in their choice of a location ; others, perhaps, remained satisfied. All through the western country the pioneer settlers have usually preferred land comprising both prairie and timber; hence, in a region where the amount of timber was limited, the claims containing any would naturally be the first occupied. In the case of the Red River valley, many of the pioneer class Avere emigrants from the wooded sections of Wisconsin, Iowa and Minnesota, con sequently they preferred the shelter that is secured in the timber from the cold winds, and lumber not then being readily obtaina ble, the log cabins they erected cost but little ; again, they wished to be sure of having plenty of fuel close at hand during the pros pectively cold winters of this northern latitude, and still another reason that influenced some of them was that, having heard that the water of the prairie districts was apt to be alkaline, they pre ferred to establish their homes near the running streams. At this early period there was an abundance of fallen timber, well seasoned, in every wooded tract, which made good fuel and was useful for other purposes. In the western part of the county these timber settlements were made in adArance of the govern ment survey, and by the close of the year 1880, every quarter- section within its present limits on Avhich there Avas any show of timber had its resident claimant occupying a small log cabin, whether such townships had then been subdivided or not. Thus these earlier settlers of the interior parts of this county followed up the Goose, Turtle and Forest rivers, building their log cabins in the shelter of the groves along these streams in preference to locating upon the open prairie. GRAND FORKS COUNTY 595 The Government Survey. Before speaking specially of any of the interior settlements of the county it will be well to say something concerning the govern ment survey of its toAvnships. The survey of the public lands in the North Dakota side of the valley was begun in 1867. In that year a few townships were laid out and subdivided in the present county of Pembina and range lines for others were run in the valley. BetAveen 1870 and 1876 the surveying of the North Da kota side of the valley became more general. This work was an extension of the surveys of Minnesota into this part of Dakota territory, though this does not imply that those in the Minnesota side of the valley had been fully completed. In merely running township lines it was customary in those days for surveyors to take contracts in blocks of townships which they called "checks." A check comprised twenty-eight town ships, or a series contained in seven ranges and four towns having correction parallels for their north and south boundaries. The township lines as then run were duly marked each half mile by stakes enclosed in pyramidical mounds about two and a half feet high and three or four feet square at the base. Similar mounds of earth and turf were placed at the corners of sections and quarter-sections when the townships were subdivided, the stakes being marked so as to indicate the town, range and quarter-sec tions. Usually it was not the custom to lay out and subdivide any series of townships in one and the same year, since this work generally involved separate contracts, nevertheless it was some times done. But several years — one to four — were apt to elapse between the laying out of the townships and their subdivision. In 1870 and '71 a number of townships were laid out in this county by Moses K. Armstrong, comprising those near the river. Those in the central and western parts of the county were laid out later, G. N. Propper having cpntracts in 1873. By the fall of 1876 it is likely that all of the townships in the county as now bounded, had been laid out. Judson LaMoure and William Ward had contracts for the subdivision of six townships in 1873, and these included the section around Grand Forks. About the same time other surveyors subdivided the townships to the north of 596 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY Grand Forks. Smweyors were at work subdividing the central toAvnships in 1876. The last two ranges of townships in the county (55 and 56), comprising most of the Elk valley and the part of the hill country within its limits, were subdivided during the summer and fall of 1880. Major G. G. Beardsley had the contract which also included Strabane township in range 54. Major Beardsley 's expedition was made up of three parties and it left Fargo in June. Two of these parties worked outside the limits of this county, one, if not both, in the Sheyenne country. The party that came to this county was in charge of James E. Dyke, a young man who ran the subdivision lines. This party consisted of ten men, well pro vided with camp supplies, three tents, two ox-teams, a saddle horse, pony and cart. The teams were used for transportation in moving camp from one township to another ; the saddle horse was for a messenger and the pony and cart was in daily use deliA-ering the mound stakes. It took from five days to a week to subdiA'ide a toAvnship. Dyke's party Avorked from south to north in the ranges mentioned, surveying these townships in alternate order. The survey o"f this county as now bounded was thus completed, having been in progress at different intervals, through a period of ten years. In the fall the contractors turned their plats over to the dis trict land office; thence they were forwarded to the interior de partment at Washington for record and approval, and when returned to the land office, which would likely not occur for sev eral months, the land was at once thrown open to settlement, and squatters and prospective settlers were then enabled to make their filings on such claims as they had already selected.* The Northwood Settlement. Early in the seventies the pioneers of Traill county, coming up from northern Iowa, from Minnesota and Wisconsin, began to push their settlements up the course of Goose river. Between 1873 and 1875 these settlements were being made in Avhat was * In part from information derived from D. M. Holmes and Major Geo. G. Beardsley. The writer saw some of the surveying that was done here in 1880, and conversed with Dyke as to the methods used in subdividing townships. GRAND FORKS COUNTY 597 then a part of Grand Forks county as originally bounded. Before Traill county was created, these settlements on Goose river had been extended up the stream and into this county as at present bounded. The timber settlers, coming in from the south, took to the line of the streams in the order of their occurrence from south to north, thus it happens that we find that Northwood township contained settlers several years in advance of any of the interior townships of this county that are bisected either by Turtle or Forest rivers. Those Avho made these upper settlements on the Goose were Scandinavians, some of whom had emigrated to the territory from northern Iowa, or from around Northwood in that state. The first of these settlers to locate in Northwood township were John and Lars Lindstrom. John came to Dakota in May, 1870, and located on Red river, four miles below the mouth of the Sheyenne. The Lindstrom brothers made their settlement on Goose river November 13, 1873. At that time the settlers on the river had taken the timbered quarter-sections up the stream as far as the vicinity of Mayville. Between that point and Newberg there were only a few settlers scattered along the river, and none had settled above the last named point when the Lindstroms came and made their selections of land. John Lindstrom states that Avhen he came to Northwood township his nearest neighbor was located sixteen miles distant down the stream. But this isolation did not continue very long. Nels Korsmo, Ole Tragethon, Halvor Solem and Anton Ostmo were settlers who came into the township in 1874. Paul C. John son and Andrew Nelson arrived in 1875. Andrew Sjerva, Peder Thingelstad, Hans Thingelstad, Guldbran Tandberg and Lars Thoresen were settlers of 1876. All of those here mentioned Avere the pioneers of Northwood township. The township lines in this part of the county had been run by the year 1876 ; the township Avas subdivided in 1877 and the land was open to receive filings by the spring of 1878 ; consequently the timber settlers of North- wood were squatters, and this class of settlers are necessarily pioneers. Others came in later and took Avhatever timbered claims may have been left, if any, or who began occupying the 598 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY adjacent prairie lands. On still mornings the smoke from the log cabins curling upward above the trees indicated that the line of Goose river was now occupied. The number of the timber settlers of the county were few in comparison with those who, a little later, overran the prairie lands. The first of the numerous prairie settlers of Northwood township are said to have been T. 0. Midbo and sons who came in 1878. T. E. Tuffte was a settler of 1879. Knute Paulson and Erick Overson came about that time. Peter N. and Gunder Korsmo came with their father in 1874, but not being of age they did not acquire land at that time. The nearest supplying point for these settlements was Cale donia on Red river, near the mouth of the Goose. The settlers had began raising a little wheat in 1875 and '76, and loads of it were teamed to Fargo during the same years, after being threshed by horse-power machines, but in the fall of 1877 and afterAvard, the grain was teamed to Grand Forks across a wide stretch of unoccupied prairie. About the year 1876, a steam flour mill Avas built at Caledonia, to which the Goose river settlers resorted for flour and feed. About 1875 a mail route was established between Caledonia and Newberg, the latter being a point in Steele county eight miles south of Northwood. Here, in the pioneer days, the settlers along the headstream of the Goose received their mail. About 1880 a mail route was established between Pembina and Valley City, the Northwood settlement being made one of the local offices ; but owing to lack of roads or some other cause it Avas soon discontinued. The mail-carrier used a span of mules which he sold to John Lindstrom on throwing up his vocation. Northwood township was organized in 1879. The original organization seems to have included the townships of Northwood, Washington, Avon and Pleasant VieAv.* Turtle River Township. In the northeastern part of the county there is a heavy body of timber between the Red and Turtle rivers, and around the mouth of the latter stream, the Avhole varying from a half mile * From data furnished by John Lindstrom, Paul C. Johnson and G. Korsmo. GRAND FORKS COUNTY 599 to one and a half miles in breadth. This forest extends along the Marais for some distance into Walsh county. Several land entries were made in this section of Grand Forks county, now called Turtle River township, when the land office was at Pembina, by Thomas Campbell, William Cochrane and Angus McDonald, then residing at Grand Forks. James M. Stoughton, an early settler of Turtle River toAvnship, who came to Grand Forks from Ontario in January, 1876, informs us that most of the timber between Grand Forks and Turtle river, and for quite a distance north, was mainly taken by the specu lators. There is very little timber on the west side of Turtle river, only a f eAv groves here and there, but they reach nearly to Manvel. The open prairie land in that part of the county began to be occupied in 1877, other settlers also coming in the next year. In the fall of 1878 a steam flour and saw mill was built near the south line of the township by August Christiani and a village was also platted there in July, 1879, Avhich was called Bellevue. This place contained, besides the mill, two stores, two hotels, a blacksmith's shop, a postoffice and a few dwellings. The mill having been burned down within a few years after it had been built, and the railroad line from Grand Forks to Neehe having left the place to one side, it never amounted to much of anything afterward. No place in the county has ever attained to anything more than a country hamlet if located off the line of a railroad, since these have been built. The Upper Turtle River Settlements. As a constantly flowing stream, Turtle river does not head beyond Agnes township, although several tributary coulees extend back into the hill country for several miles. The course of the stream is at first southeast to Arvilla township where it attains its most southerly bend, thence its course is northeast to Meki- nock, again east adjacent to the township line betAveen Blooming and Lakeville, and finally it takes a northerly course down the valley plain, through Perry and Turtle River townships, to its confluence with Red river near the northeastern corner of the county. Between Agnes and Mekinock townships the stream is 600 HISTORY" OF RED RIVER VALLEY contained within something of a valley cut across the central land belt of the county ; in Hegton and the north part of Arvilla townships this depression varies from a quarter to a half mile in breadth and has a depth of from forty to ninety feet beloAv the common prairie level. This valley is partially timbered. The stream bisects Mekinock township diagonally. The first settlers of this tovraship came to its valley in the spring of 1877. They were Halvor Halvorson and tAvo sons, Avho located near the present village of Mekinock. The next to come were the Rasmus- sons and Ole Graff. In the summer of the same year, Robert Blakely arrived and located in Section 21, near the middle of the •toAvnship. The Sandbaek family also came during the summer of 1877. Fred Trepanier and CraAA'ford Blakely came in 1878. Among the settlers of 1879 were Thomas T. SteA'ens, Captain Bat- tersby and Dr. HoAvard Lancaster, all of Avhom located in the southwest quarter of the township. Charles Cooper, Ebenezer Smith, John Smith and B. F. Warren were settlers AA'ho came to the township in 1880. Robert Blakely was pretty well known during his residence in the township, since he kept the postoffice of the community for several years. He teamed through from Stearns county, Minn. ; from Caledonia he followed the old halfbreed trail down the coun try to where it then crossed the Turtle, a little below his place, for the crossing four miles above seems to have been later, and to have been made by white men. During the earlier part of his residence in the county, he burned lime by collecting limestone boAvlders. Later he was engaged in the same occupation on Salt coulee, south of Ojata, from Avhich place he once took a load of lime to Grand Forks, and having lost off the bur from one of the wagon wheels, he Avalked beside that particular Avheel so as to push it back on the axle Avhenever it showed any signs of working off. This was characteristic of Blakely. Ultimately, considering that the county was getting too croAvded to suit his notions in regard to population, he emigrated to the Rocky mountains. T. T. Stevens teamed through from St. Paul. In those times the "Barnesville flats" in Minnesota Avas a notable locality for GRAND FORKS COUNTY 601 the miring of teams during the spring by reason of the occasional cutting of the wheels through the thin prairie sod and into a sticky, whitish clay subsoil which resembled putty. Mr. Stevens states that between Barnesville and Moorhead he had to unload his wagon eighteen times in one day. He reached Grand Forks about the middle of April, 1879, and while on his journey out to Blakely 's place his team was mired seven times during the first six miles in crossing the Red River flats. In June, 1878, a party of seven men from Stearns and Kandi yohi counties, in Minneosta, arrived at Grand Forks. They made the journey with ox-teams, and brought along with them their supplies and about fifty head of young stock. Learning on their arrival that the Turtle river valley was not occupied above what is uoav Mekinock township, and that it contained timber and a pure running stream, they decided to locate in that part of the county. Having chosen their respective claims, and erected log cabins, they began the usual round of western pioneer life. The land being in market in the central part of the county that year, they filed on their claims together at Grand Forks. At this time the United States land office was at Fargo, but filings could be made at Grand Forks through authorized attorneys acting for the Fargo office. Some of this party had families who came when they did or soon afterward. These settlers were Henry A. Mor gan, his brother, Newell C. Morgan, Crawford Blakely, Edwin Collins, Oscar E. Clark, Dennis Kelley and Albert Murray. All of these men, with the exception of Blakely, who settled in Mekinock, located in the north part of Arvilla toAvnship and were the original settlers of that township. Others who formed part of the Turtle river contingent came later and at different intervals. George Hughes and August Schiebe came in the fall of 1878, E. 0. Steelman in the spring of 1879, and John C. Morgan, father of H. A. and N. C. Morgan, in 1880. In March of the latter year, Frank Becker came and located near the "point of timber," about three-quarters of a mile east of the Hersey mansion. Edwin Collins* was the original settler at the Hersey place, and built * Collins removed to Nebraska about the year 1889, and in the fall of 1891 he was accidentally killed in the railroad yards at Omaha while employed there as a switchman 602 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY his log cabin at the foot of the hill or at what is now called the Hersey grove. Hegton is one of the Turtle river townships and is situated next north of Arvilla in Range 54. The township is twice bisected by the stream with a major and a minor crossing of the same. The first crossing of the township by the river is through its, southwestern part, while the minor crossing of the same is made by a diagonal bisection of school section 36 after the stream leaves Arvilla township. A small stream called the south branch of Turtle river flows for one and a half miles through the soutlnvest part of the township to its confluence with the main stream in Section 32. The settlements on both streams in Hegton township were mostly made during the year 1879. George D. Leavitt came up from Mitchell county, Iowa, in the fall of 1878 and made his selec tion of land along the south branch. The next spring he settled at Roach's grove, which was formerly called Leavitt 's grove. Joe Carter, who was an Englishman by birth, came with Leavitt and located farther down the stream. Austin Fisch, a German, who was a hotel keeper from Grand Forks, took a claim near Leavitt 's and built his log cabin down on the bottom land of the stream. John Tholin, a Norwegian, and Edward Wheeler, an American, settled near the confluence of the south branch with the main stream. Above Tholin 's place along the main stream were located August Aslagsen, August Molean, Ludvic Berggren and Axel An derson, the latter having bought the right of a previous settler named Nelson. About the first of June, 1879, Thomas Christianson, H. E. Hanson and three others arrived from Swift county, Minnesota, the first two locating on the Turtle in the western part of the township, while the others passed on to Bachelor's grove. Arne Anderson and Gilbert Johnson came in the spring of 1880. There is some extension of the timber along Turtle river into the northeastern part of Elm Grove township. A few Norwegian settlers came in 1880 and made their locations here, this being the last of the timber on the stream that had until that year re mained unoccupied. These settlers, who were the first to locate jh£/?7^a4 ~A^L*^&/~ GRAND FORKS COUNTY .603 in Elm Grove township, were Tollif Christianson, Christian Huset, Mattis Gulickson, Ole Melland and Isaac Christianson. The cabin of Melland having burned down, he took a prairie claim the next year in another part of the toAvnship, Isaac Christianson occu pying his former claim on the river.* Bachelors Grove. Bachelors grove is a large wedge-shaped body of timber on the headstream of Turtle river, comprising about 300 acres. It borders the stream for one and a half miles with an average width of a quarter of a mile, and is mainly contained in Agnes township, but it has a considerable extension up a coulee of the hills and into Oakwood township. The east half of the grove, in the Elk valley, is dense woods, chiefly of elm and basswood, with much burr oak along its upper half. The stream here is frozen up in winter and is so inconsequential that in the summer and fall it is either dry or reduced merely to a trickling watercourse. The residences of the present occupants of the land are situ ated in and around this body of timber, together with the school- house and church of the community. The schoolhouse is located in the southeast quarter of Section 30, and the church, which is Scandinavian Lutheran, in the southwest quarter of Section 29, Agnes township, and north of the grove. The townline road be tween Agnes and OakAvood cuts a swath through the midst of the grove about sixty rods in length. During the period under consideration, a large body of fine timber like Bachelors grove would not have been apt to have remained long unoccupied. Indeed, it appears that squatters located there over a month before that part of the timber along Turtle river in Arvilla township was taken, and perhaps over a year before the portion of it in Hegton township was filed upon. To the west of Hegton, Arvilla and Avon townships the land was not opened to settlement until May, 1881, consequently anyone locating upon either timber or prairie claims in that part of the county prior to that date were of the squatter class of settlers. * For settlers in Mekinock township, data furnished by T. T. Stevens ; for Arvilla, Hegton, and Elm Grove the data was given during different years by H. A. Morgan, H. E. Hanson, Thos. Christianson and others. 604 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY The earlier settlers of Bachelors grove were chiefly Scandina vians, and they came at intervals from Iowa, Wisconsin and Min nesota. First of all, there came in the month of April, 1878, Gulick and Thomas Thomson, Peter L. Peterson, James Christian- son, and with them a young man from Wisconsm who returned there in about three months. At first this body of timber was called Thomson's grove, from the Thomson brothers, but in the fall of 1879, when W. N. Roach opened the mail route between Grand Forks and Fort Totten, James H. Mathews, who accom panied him, spoke of it as "the bachelor's grove," for the reason that at that time only one man had his family with him, and this designation of the locality passed into current use. In the spring of 1879, Gulick Thomson sold his squatter's right to James Chris tianson and removed to Forest river. Christianson later disposed of his acquired right to William Postall. The latter in turn dis posed of it to John Crawford and John Warnock in the fall of 1879. Christian Bang also became a settler at the grove that year. Others came during the same year or that following. Of these, Albert Wright, Cornelius Olson, Hans Olson and Ever Olson occu pied that part of the grove that extends into Oakwood township. In 1880 there came to the grove or to its vicinity, H. S. Han son, William McLaren, Iver Gunderson, John Anderson, Bert Gates, Edward Beardsley, John Pierson, M. S. Wallace and George G. Beardsley, the latter a contractor for government sur veys and originally from Ohio. These later settlers were squat ters, but not all of them timber men, for here we refer to this locality as a community. Those who came to the grove in 1878 passed three years here as squatters before they could make their filings on their claims. The nearest market toAvn for all of the grove settlers during the first two or three years was Grand Forks, which is about forty miles distant. A trip to town and back, if made with oxen, was then a three days' journey. Settlers of Other Groves. Elm grove, which gave the township in which it is located its name, is a small body of timber containing about five acres sit uated in the north part of Section 19. In 1880 a squatter had built a log shack in the grove, but before the township was open- GRAND FORKS COUNTY 605 ed to settlement, his right was purchased by T. 0. Edwards, who subsequently acquired considerable land in its vicinity. The first occupants of Niagara toAvnship were a few Scandina vians avIio settled in a couple of isolated timber tracts bordering coulees in the eastern part of the township. About two miles south of Bachelors grove is Little Elm grove, a tract of about ten acres, located in the east half of Section 12. Peter Hanson located at this grove in 1879 and was probably the first settler of the township. Andrew Hanson came here in 1880. Up the coulee west of Elm grove there is a limited amount of timber, this locality being called Whiskey creek, though there is but little water in the coulee, except at the melting away of a winter's accumulation of snow. The coulee forks about a mile above Elm grove, both branches being crossed by the main line of the Great Northern railroad, the larger fill being 52 feet high at the center. Along this coulee there settled in 1880, Knute Hilstadt, Ole Hanson, Ole Ringstad and Sever Peterson. Three other settlers, S. Ness, Ole Moen and Arne Earness came there in 1881. The Forest River Settlements. Forest river is mainly confined to Walsh county but its upper reaches intersect the north part of Strabane and Inkster town ships in this county. It is only with that portion of the stream in these townships that this narrative is specially concerned, for along its banks we may confidently look for the location of the first settlers of the northwestern part of the county. It should be observed, however, that Forest river was known to the trap pers, voyageurs, explorers and others, and even on our modern maps, as the Big Salt, the change in the name occurring in 1878. In that year the few setters in what is now Forest River town ship of Walsh county, provided for mail delivery at a postoffice located in that township and along the stream, by which their mail was brought to them from a postoffice in Turtle River township, distant about 18 miles, and at their own expense. It should be understood that these country offices, even to present times, are the residences of their respective postmasters, and in settlement days the offices were apt to have been log cabins. 606 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY Jesse B. Warren was postmaster for these settlers. The name chosen for this office was "Forest River," which was soon applied both to the township and the stream. This township formerly included Johnstown in this county, Walsh county not then having been created. George T. Inkster was of Scotch parentage, born on Red River at some distance below Winnipeg. His mother was a native of the country, having some Indian blood, but was nearly white. Prior to 1878 Inkster resided for awhile on Red Lake river near the present village of Mallory. Late in the fall of that year he removed to Forest river and settled in the township now bearing his name, locating in Section 12 of the same. He was the first settler of Inkster township and may be regarded as the father of it. His nearest neighbors, for that year at least, appear to have been located several miles down the stream. About 1882 he re moved to McHenry county. The next settler Avas David Lemery Avho came in the spring of 1879 and took a squatter's claim ad joining Inkster 's on the west. Other settlers came during the spring of 1880 ; these were William and Neil Mathie, Luther Dodge, James S. Collins, A. Mclntyre and Clark Corey. Strabane township is next east of Inkster, and one of those Avhich border on the Walsh county line. The first settlers of this township were James McDonald, John McDonald and W. H. McDonald. James came first and was the first actual settler of the township, having made his squatter's location in April, 1879, and was soon followed by the other two of the McDonald brothers. Other early settlers were Gillison Wager, Leonard Wager, Wil liam Pitts, Henry Congram, William Hobbs, N. L. Elwain and Jonathan Wager, Avho come in 1879. Nearly all of these men were from Ontario; Pitts and his family emigrated from Wisconsin and Elwain came from New York state. There Avas a postoffice established at William Mathie 's place in Inkster township in the spring of 1880, the mail being brought once a week from Walshville. The Strabane settlers also es tablished one in the fall of the same year, which was called Reno, John McDonald being the postmaster. The mail was brought to this office from the one in Inkster township. The Reno office was GRAND FORKS COUNTY 607 maintained until 1884, or to the time that the railroad came through that part of the county and Inkster village was started, when it Avas discontinued.* Remarks on the Timber Settlers. The life of the log cabin settlers of Traill, Grand Forks, Walsh and other counties of eastern North Dakota differed considerably from that of the present occupants of the soil who dwell in roomy framed houses and who are never out of reach of the sound of the whistle of the locomotive. Although this interval was com paratively short, comprising only a few years in each section that was thus represented, the significance of the phase of life presented by the timber settlements lies in the fact that it was the real pioneer period of the eastern portion of this state, ex clusive of the northern boundary. While the period lasted, it furnished much the same round of life as has been usual in the west before the railroads came and ushered in a distinct phase of civilization, closely corresponding, in fact, with the earlier, but longer continued log cabin days of the older western states. In the Red River tier of counties this period approximately com prised the decade of the seventies but was far from beginning and ending in each section contemporaneously, as has already been instanced in the case of this county. Usually the pioneer settlers of the middle western states have been a restless and thriftless class, though there are many notable exceptions; here, the most of them never retained their lands but few years longer than the log cabin period itself lasted. There, is a class of them who have ever preferred the rough and isolated life of the frontier to the requirements and vexatious complica tions of populous communities, disliking the prospect of being merged with the agricultural population that later overruns the country. There were many such located for awhile along the timbered tributaries of Red River. As times changed, they one by one either lost their claims through mortgages or disposed of them to new comers and again faced toward the setting sun. Again, there were others of the original timber settlers who Mainly from data furnished by John McDonald, of Strabane township. 608 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY drifted to the new and growing towns and changed their occu pation. The present framed houses and barns that have replaced the original log cabins and stables of logs, poles and straw, respectively, have generally been erected by later comers, though this has not, of course, invariably been the case. The Old Wagon Trails. The three halfbreed, or cart trails that passed through the county have been duly mentioned, but our purpose here will be to speak of those that were struck out by the settlers using the common farm wagon, in connection with the timber settlements, and which were used during the continuance of that interval. The old trails of the county, whether made by cart trains or farm wagons, were the predecessors of the present section-line roads. In regard to the county roads, four successive stages of develop ment may be noted. First of all there came into use the old cart trails of the long ago; second in order were the trails made and used by the timber settlers and mail carriers; then there next came into use the numerous trails of the prairie settlers, and finally, the present roads Avere established which generally corre spond with the section lines. The trails of the whites were at first such as would result from the occasional passage in the same track of the common farm wagon. After they became rutted by the cutting of the sod by the narrow Avheel tires and treading of the animals used for draught, a strip of grass about 2% feet in width- remained between the ruts, and increased travel gradually wore even this away. At this stage of development these routes ceased to be trails and became beaten roads. There was a trail leading from the northern outskirts of Grand Forks that bore west-by-north across the valley plain to Robert Blakeley's place in Mekinock, thence followed the prairie near the timber along the south side of the Turtle river valley and it terminated at what is now called Roach's grove. This early roadway into the central part of the county was struck out in the summer of 1878 by the Turtle river settlers. The reason of their not taking a more direct course to Grank Forks was owing to sloughy land in Chester township and danger of miring their teams, while by keeping near the Turtle river valley a more GRAND FORKS COUNTY 609 suitable and dry route was found. Two years later the direct route through Ojata was taken. There was another trail of those days that led from Grand Forks across the south half of the county in a general southwest ern direction to the Newberg and Northwood settlements. By the year 1880 this early traveled way across the county had be come a well beaten road, though much of the country through which it passed Avas then unoccupied. There was also a wagon trail of the later 'seventies, merely rutted rather than worn, that passed through the western part of the county near the hills. It followed the western side of the Elk valley, farther inward than the old halfbreed trail. To the Avest of Larimore its course lay about a mile inward from the base of these uplands but it approached much nearer to them farther north, and likely followed the halfbreed trail in places through the northAvestern quarter of the county. It was an early line of transient travel betAveen the settlements on the branches of the Goose and those on Forest and Park rivers, and Avas mostly util ized by persons Avho traveled in canvas coA'ered Avagons called "prairie schooners," such as emigrants and other roving classes commonly use. In those days the teams were generally oxen for horses Avere then by no means plenty even in proportion to the eomparatiA7ely scant population of the country. These, with the Fort Totten trail and Red River stage road formed the principal of the early traveled routes through the county. As the prairie settlements developed, numerous tran sient wagon trails of a local character were used for awhile, or until the breaking up of the land for cultivation gradually forced the most of them from the lands they crossed to the section lines. As might be supposed, any kind of trail disregarded the section lines even where, for aAvhile, as in the case of the prairie settler's trails, they were used in surveyed parts of the county. The Fort Totten Trail. The military post at the Indian reservation on the south side of Devils lake was established in 1867-8. The teaming of ma terials and supplies to build Fort Totten was from St. Cloud by 610 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY way of Fort Abercrombie. When the Northern Pacific railroad had been built west of Red River, and Jamestown was started, the quartermaster's supplies and the goods furnished the Indians by government were teamed from that place to the post until the fall of 1879, after which the goods were delivered for awhile at Grand Forks, and later at Ojata and Larimore. The mail for the post came by way of Jamestown. As the railroad advanced west from Grand Forks, the distance that the supplies destined for Fort Totten and the reservation had to be transported by teams, was shortened. From Grand Forks out to Blakeley's the route corresponded with the Turtle River trail. After crossing the stream by a ford at this place, the route passed west to Hanson's in the western part of Hegton township .where it again crossed the stream by a shallow ford; thence bearing across Elm Grove township and passing just to the north of Elm grove, it next crossed over the uplands through the south part of Niagara township and then passing between Smith's lakes in the northwestern part of Mo raine toAvnship, it struck westward to Stump and Devils lakes across what is now Nelson county. Something of a survey for a wagon route between Port Totten and Grand Porks was made by the military authorities about the year 1877, but the route was not actually utilized until October, 1879, when the first of the caravans or wagon trains that came to Grand Porks set out for that place. During that fall, W. N. Roach, in later years United States senator for this state, Avas residing in Grand Forks, having arrived there in September of that year. Viets & McKelvey, of Grand Forks, had a contract at that time to deliver certain supplies to the fort, and this cir cumstance, together Avith the starting of the railroad from Fishers Landing to Grand Porks, appears to have led to the establish ment of a mail route between Grand Porks and Fort Totten. An organization called the Overland Mail & Transportation Company, with headquarters at Washington, were then the original con tractors with the government for a large number of mail routes in the west, and after some contest over the sub-contract, it was awarded to Mr. Roach. He therefore proceeded to open a mail GRAND FORKS COUNTY 611 and stage route through this county to the lake. The mail was to be carried both Avays once a week.* Mr. Roach started out on his first trip early in October, 1879, and Avas accompanied by Jaines Ii. Mathews. At Smith's lakes, near the west line of the county, they met the first wagon train that came east from Port Totten and after passing them they saAV no AA'hite men until the fort was reached. In crossing what is now Nelson county, they kept their course by using a pocket compass, taking route somewhat north of that which the In dian caravan had just traveled. f Quite early in his mail and stage business, Mr. Roach took steps to have three intermediate postoffices established on the route. These were located at Blakeley's in Mekinock, at Hanson's in Hegton and one at Stump lake. In respect to the Hegton office, Mr. Roach had a conference with the settlers at Bachelors grove and some of those on the upper course of the Turtle; at his suggestion a petition to the Postmaster General at Washington was drawn up and signed by them, requesting that a postoffice be established in their neigh borhood and that Hans E. Hanson be appointed postmaster. In like manner Robert Blakeley became postmaster of the office in Mekinock township. Mr. Roach did not always go with the mail stage himself, but occasionally employed others to make the weekly trips. During the first winter the carriers sometimes had to rely on the dog- sledge to get the mail through. A man named Smith kept the mail station at Stump lake and a feAv other settlers were located there, among whom was the old frontiersman, Francis de Molin. In December, 1879, Warren Smith, a son of the station keeper, was carrying the mail and he had with him as passengers a half breed and a white man. They had three dogs in the train, but lost the beaten track in a storm. They killed one dog for food and one froze to death. They lay in a snowbank for about two days but finally managed to reach Molin 's place, and staggering from exhaustion one or more of them fell at his door. Here they were kindly cared for until they could go on to Fort Totten. * In part from statements of Hon. W. N. Boach. t Of J. H. Mathews. 612 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY At Grand Forks the men were not heard from for some time and were supposed to have perished until a letter arrived from the fort that had been sent around by Avay of Jamestown and Fargo, stating that the men were safe and that the route was impassably blockaded with snow. The Fort Totten trail was also traveled by the Indian car avans that went to Grand Forks for goA7ernment supplies. The government had furnished the Indians with good Avagons and oxen. Sometimes as many as fifty teams, each with an Indian driver, composed these supply trains. They traveled mostly in warm weather, camping in canvas covered tepees at suitable points on the route, and on these trips they were accompanied by an agent who used a horse and buggy. Smaller parties of the reserA-ation Indians occasionally passed back and forth over this route in making visits to the Red Lake ChippeAvays in Minne sota. A few of the old Red River carts and ponies were then still to be seen with these bands. Mr. Roach drove a good team of roadsters with a light two seated wagon. Only an ordinary mail-bag Avas required. As the trail developed a few local ones Avere made to branch off from it leading to Forest river and Bachelors grove. At the time that the main trail began to be forced upon the section lines in consequence of the occupation and breaking of the land, that portion of it between Grand Forks and the hill country had de- A'eloped into a well beaten road. With the westward adArance of the railroad, the mail was discontinued in 1882 and the Fort Totten trail, as a distinctiA7e line of travel betAveen Grand Forks and Stump and DeA7ils lakes, ceased to exist. The old Red River trail, mail and stage route, though barely more than mentioned in the sketches, stands first in importance in relation to its historical bearings on the central part of the A7alley ; the old Fort Totten trail, though brief in duration, stands next in order of all these old traveled Avavs. CHAPTER XXVII. GRAND FORKS CITY. When the first white men came to the northwest the Red and Lake rivers were highways used by the Indians, and the "Forks," where they joined, was regarded as an important location. For generations the site of the present city of Grand Porks was a fur trading point, and a general rendezvous for both whites and Indians. The old fur trading post disappeared, however, and for many years there had been no sign of a human habitation there. In 1868 Nicholas Hoffman and August Loon, who had secured the contract for carrying the mail between Pembina and Fort Abercrombie, built a log house for a stage station on the west bank of the Red river, near the present home of Judge Corliss. The following year Sanford C. Cady, another mail car rier, built another log house near the site of the present munici pal power plant. Mr. Cady induced the postoffice department to establish a postoffice at Grand Porks, with himself as post master, and he received his commission on June 15, 1870. This was the official beginning of the city of Grand Porks. In the winter of 1869-70 James J. Hill, who was taking an active interest in northwestern transportation, made a trip to Fort Garry by dog sledge, and as a result of his observations he determined to develop the river traffic. Some freighting was already being done on the river, but there were no steamers in use on it. Mr. Hill interested with him Captain Alex Griggs, then operating a steamboat on the Minnesota and upper Mississippi, and the firm of Hill, Griggs & Company was formed. Captain Griggs had lumber sawed at Frazee, Minnesota, and floated it to McCauleyville, just across from Abercrombie, where J. S. McCau- ley had established a small sawmill, and here the first Red river 613 614 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY steamer was built. It made several trips from McCauleyviUe to Winnipeg in the summer of 1870, and in the fall of that year it was caught at Grand Forks by the freezing of the river. The freight from the barges was unloaded and sheltered by lumber which was being carried north, and a man was left in charge for the winter. Captain Griggs, before returning to St. Paul, decided that there was promise of the growth of a good town at Grand Forks, and he proceeded to "squat" on a quarter section, starting the construction of a log house in token of good faith. The land was not yet surveyed. Howard Vaughn, his clerk and assistant, took possession of another quarter section in the northern part of the present city, and this was held for him by George Aker, who had joined the party. Mr. Aker later acquired Vaughn's rights, and filed on the claim in his own name. He has lived continuously on the land since that time, though the farm has long since been divided into building lots. In 1871 a small sawmill was built and a store was started. In 1872 Commodore N. W. Kittson, of the Hudson's Bay Com pany, established a boat yard at Grand Forks and built a number of boats, and in the following year, his company established at the new town its headquarters for the upper Red River valley and built there a large store and hotel. The hotel building has been moved several times, but is still standing, and now forms the southern section of the Arlington Park hotel. Grand Forks county was organized in 1874. In 1875 the first newspaper, the "Plaindealer, " was established by George H. Walsh. It was discontinued in 1908. In 1875 the plat of the original townsite of Grand Forks was filed by Captain Griggs. The plat included ninety acres of the Griggs homestead. In 1877 the first flour mill in the valley, a fifty-barrel plant, was built by Frank Viets. The building stood on South Third street near the power plant, and was operated until about 1904 or 1905, when it burned. In 1878 a village organization Avas created Avith George H. Walsh president, R. W. Cutts clerk, W. H. Brown, John McRae, William Budge and Frank Viets trustees. In 1879 the second neAvspaper, the "Herald," was established by George B. Winship. GRAND FORKS CITY 615 In 1880 the Great Northern reached Grand Forks from the east. In 1881 the city was incorporated Avith W. H. Brown as its first mayor. In 1909 the population of Grand Forks is between 12,000 and 13,000. The city owns its own waterAvorks plant, with filter, pumping station and about 20 miles of mains; its street lighting plant, with 120 arc lamps and a modern incandescent system about to be installed in the business section ; a sewer system with some eighteen miles of mains and laterals. The business section and most of the residence section were paved in 1896 and the years immediately following. Cedar block was the material used. In 1908 the city began to repave with a permanent pavement with a heavy concrete base and a wearing surface of creosoted Avood blocks. In 1908 the first rails were laid on a street railway system which is to cover the entire city. The state fair is held at Grand Forks in odd numbered years, and in the even num bered years there is held an independent fair which is very suc cessful. The city fire department has a regular paid force of twelve men and a large and well trained volunteer force, seven horses, two modern buildings and abundant and excellent ap paratus. The city has about twenty acres of parks, and negotia tions are under way for the acquisition of nearly 200 acres of additional park property. There are seven public school build ings, accommodating 2,500 pupils and sixty instructors. The State University, Avith its nine colleges and seventy instructors is treated under a separate head. There are about twenty-five churches, representing all of the principal denominations. Two theatres, well built and modern, have each accommodations for about 1,000 people, and there are several smaller places of en tertainment. The city has fine Y. M. C. A., public library and postoffice buildings. A conservatory of music and several private instructors provide musical instruction, and the May music festi val has become the musical event of the northwest. The city has one of the finest bands in the northwest. There are many jobbing houses, numerous factories of moderate size, and several unusually fine retail establishments. 616 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY Post Office History. The first postmaster was Sanford E. Cady, who was appointed in 1870. He was succeeded by 0. S. Freeman in 1872, and he by Alex. Griggs in 1875. Captain Griggs served until 1879, when Don. McDonald was appointed, he serving until 1888, when he Avas succeeded by D. P. McLaurin, who was succeeded by J. P. Bray in 1892. Mr. Bray only served a little over one year, when he was succeeded by Willis A. Joy, and he in turn by William Budge, and Mr. Budge by the present incumbent, Mrs. Minnie L. Budge. The first post office was in the building known as the Hoffman place on Northwestern Ave., now occupied by Dan Blue of the police force as a residence. John Stewart kept the stage station at that place, and acted as the deputy for Sanford Cady the first postmaster. After the establishment of the Griggs, Walsh & Co. store the post office was removed to that place. It has been located at various places since then, the Hudson Bay Company store formerly located Avhere the Union National bank now stands, Lyons & Doheny store was the location during Captain Griggs' term. It was removed from there by Postmaster Mc Donald in 1879 to a building that then occupied the site of the Barnes & Nuss store and from there the next year to the Gotzian Block. In 1883 it was moved to the room now occupied by G. K. Monroe on Kittson Ave. The Odd Fellows Block furnished quarters for the few years preceding the removal to the present Federal Building. Grand Forks City Schools. The school system of the city of Grand Forks had its begin ning in 1875, when Rev. William Curie, pastor of the Methodist church, took charge of the education of a little group of children in a small one-story building erected for that purpose. Five years later a two-story building was built on the site now occupied by the court house. This building, it was supposed, would answer for many years, but the young city had outgrown it within two years, and in 1882 the building was moved across the street to a GRAND FORKS IN 1878, LOOKING NORTH GRAND FORKS CITY 617 little triangle of ground, where it has since been used as a hotel. This triangle is now the site of two of the relics of the early his tory of the city, the old school building, and the old Hundon's Bay hotel. The two are used jointly as a hotel. In 1882 the first section of the present Central school building was erected at a cost of $25,000. It contained eight rooms, and was at that time the best school building in North Dakota. A few years later the rapid growth of the southern part of the city made school accommodations necessary there, and the first section of the Belmont building was built. This was followed by the Wilder school in the north, named in honor of W. L. Wilder, for sixteen years a member of the board, and for many years its president. The Winship school in the western part of the city was built in 1903, and was named in honor of George B. WTinship, and in 1906 the Washington school, two blo.cks north of the Central, was erected. All of the school buildings of the city today are accommodated on these five sites, but each of the older buildings has been added to until its capacity is increased many fold. In addition to new grade rooms there has been built at the Central site a handsome high school building which is one of the best appointed in the state. A site has also been purchased for a building in the extreme southern part of the city which will probably be built in 1910. The cash value of Grand Forks school property has recently been appraised by an official board at over $350,000, of which $250,000 is in buildings. In 1879 there were 14 pupils and one teacher in the little Grand Forks school. Today 2,500 children receive their instruc tion in the public schools of the city, aside from those who are educated at the University, Grand Forks College, St. Bernard's A.cademy, the business colleges and other private institutions. The present superintendent, J. Nelson Kelly, has had charge of the schools for several years, and he is regarded as one of the strongest men in educational work in the northwest. Under his direction are employed sixty-four instructors. An effort has been made, successfully, it is believed, to keep pace with advanced educational thought, and at the same time to avoid those fads and frills which waste both time and energy. Pupils removing from Grand Forks are able to take up the work of their own grades 618 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY" in the schools of any city on the continent, a fact which indicated the thoroughness of the instruction Avhich they have been given. Grand Forks Churches. The Methodist church is the pioneer in religious work in Grand Forks, the first services having been conducted by Rev. John Webb, a pastor of that church, in 1873. He organized a church and Sunday school, and started the movement for a church building. The site for the structure was donated by Captain Alex Griggs, OAvner of the townsite, and the business men contributed liberally. This Avas years before prohibition in the northwest was thought of, and the saloon keepers of the young town Avere as liberal as any others in their contributions to church erection funds. The Methodist building was completed in 1876, under the pastorate of Rev. J. B. Sharkey. The present modern building Avas erected in the early '90s. Presbyterian church. The first services under the auspices of the Presbyterian church were conducted in 1878 by Rev. F. W. Iddings, who Avas sent to Grand Forks by the Board of Home Missions of his church. In 1879 a permanent organization Avas formed, and the first Presbyterian building was built. This has been enlarged from time to time, and during the year 1910 it Avill be replaced by a $60,000 edifice, funds for Avhich haA'e already been raised. The Catholic church made its entry into Grand Forks in 1877, vdien Father Hubert gathered his first little congregation to gether. A chapel was built in 1881, and in 1883 there was built a fine brick church, at that time the largest in North Dakota. This Avas Avrecked by a tornado in 1887, was rebuilt and improved immediately, and was burned to the ground in 1907. In the fol lowing year there was built a fine $80,000 building, Avhich is noAV the home of the congregation. St. Paul's parish of the Episcopal church was organized in 1879, with Rev. W. P. Law in charge. Temporary quarters Avere used until 1881, when a small but pretty gothic building Avas built, and this has been enlarged several times. The Baptists organized their Grand Forks society in 18S1 and GRAND FORKS CITY 619 built a small chapel the folloAving year. In 1890 a fine brick church was built, and ten years later this was doubled in capacity by the addition of a modern Sunday school building. Zion Lutheran church was organized in 1880, and in 1883 a small building was built. This was enlarged several times, and in 1908 the old building was moved, and in its place was built a handsome structure costing about $50,000. The German Evangelical society was organized in 1889. For several years services were held in temporary quarters, but in 1897 the building which had been occupied by the Congregational church was purchased and this has since been the home of the German organization. Christian Scientists. In 1890 the Christian Scientists organ ized a society at Grand Forks, holding services for several years in temporary quarters. In 1902 a fine brick church building was erected, and the Scientists now have one of the most tasteful buildings in the city. Children of Israel. In 1888 the congregation of the Children of Israel organized a Grand Forks society, and in 1893 the pres ent synagogue was built. Rabbi Papermaister, organizer of the congregation, is still in charge, and he ministers to about 100 families, his people being chiefly of Russian birth or descent. Trinity Lutheran church was organized in 1883, and a neat building was built in 1884. The Norwegian Lutheran Synod church, organized in 1890, erected its present building in 1903. Other church organizations are the Church of God, organized in 1894, Augsburg Swedish Lutheran, in 1896, Scandinavian Methodist in 1884, Scandinavian Baptist, in 1896, German Luth eran, and African Methodist. The Congregationalists organized late in the '80s and built a church building. Later the services were discontinued, and the building was sold, as has been stated, to the German Evangelical society. In 1907 a new organization was perfected, and services were resumed, but no building has yet been erected. The Y. M. C. A. is an important element in the religious and 620 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY social life of Grand Forks. The local society was established in 1892, with M. B. Van Vranken as general secretary. So evident was the usefulness of the society, even with the limited accommo dations which it had in rented quarters, that a movement was started to provide a suitable building. A site was bought and paid for with funds subscribed by the young men of the city, and in 1904 a handsome new building, costing, with its equip ment, over $50,000, every dollar of which had been subscribed by Grand Porks people, was thrown open. In this building the society has all the facilities of work possessed by the societies of the larger cities. In the basement are the baths, swimming pool, bowling alley and boys' workshops. On the main floor are the offices, several class rooms, reading rooms, and gymnasium. On the second floor are the parlors, more class rooms, etc., and the third floor is arranged in suites and single rooms for rent to young men. The people of Grand Forks have taken considerable pride, and evidently with good reason, in the statement made by officers of the general association that when this building was built this was the only case in the history of the Y. M. C. A. in which so fine a home had been built for the society in a city comparable in size to Grand Forks without a burden of indebted ness to start with, or without calling on outsiders for contribu tions. Deaconess Hospital. One of the grandest institutions in the northwest is the Grand Forks Deaconess Hospital, and the noble work it is doing in the cause of suffering humanity is certainly worthy of the highest commendation. Such an enterprise is entitled to the hearty sup port of the good people of the wide territory for which its service is available. The Deaconess Hospital is the successor to St. Luke's hospital. It occupies a commodious and substantial brick build ing, designed expressly for hospital Avork, and costing with im provements more than $25,000. The hospital is very conveniently arranged and is equipped with everything in the way of appli ances that experience and science show is desirable in a perfectly appointed hospital. No contagious diseases are received, and GRAND FORKS CITY 621 fever patients are entirely separated from other portions of the hospital. Patients are treated either in the very completely equipped wards or in private rooms, as is desired. The Grand Forks Deaconess Hospital is a corporation inde pendent of any other organization. The members of the corpora tion, as well as the sisters having charge of the hospital, are professed Christians and members of the Evangelical Lutheran church. Patients of any nationality and, creed are received and im partially treated at the hospital; they are allowed to choose any doctor they prefer. Any physician of good standing is welcome to the accommo dations of the hospital for his patients. Ministers of all denominations are cordially invited to visit the patients belonging to their denominations and attend to their spiritual welfare. The corporation has no capital stock and is not organized with a view of profit. It is maintained by voluntary contributions, fees paid by patients and by testamentary devise which it is allowed to receive. There is also a charity fund which is used in the case of patients too poor to provide for their own expense. Grand Forks Manufacturers. None of the cities in the prairie northwest are manufacturing cities. Grand Forks, in common with the others, is a commercial rather than an industrial center. Nevertheless it has manufactur ing enterprises of considerable importance, and these are growing in both size and number. In volume of business handled the Red River Valley Brick Company is the most important in the city, and one of the most important in the state. Brick has been manufactured at this point almost from the time of the early settlers, as there is an abundance of good brick clay which is easy to reach, and in the early days wood for burning was abundant all along the river. Then came the installation of power plants and modern methods, and several large yards were estab lished under separate management. The first step in the direction of consolidation was in the organization of an association which 622 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY^ bought at a stated price all the brick manufactured by the local yards and sold them to customers. This association was made up of the owners of the four yards then in operation and it had nothing to do with the management of the yards. Then came the organization of the present corporation, which owns the four yards and handles the entire business of production and distri bution. This company in 1908 manufactured over 60 per cent of all the brick used in the state of North Dakota. It makes a large line of drain tile, and has installed machinery for the manu facture of hollow brick. It now obtains its fuel supply from the northern Minnesota forests, and there it owns its OAvn timber lands, maintains its own camps and cuts its own timber. While the brick business is the largest in bulk carried on in Grand Porks, it is surpassed by that done by the Grand Forks Lumber Company in East Grand Forks, which, for industrial purposes, is a part of the same city. Owing to the facility with which logs could be floated down the river, and to the fact that it was located in the heart of a vast lumber consuming territory, Grand Forks, though distant from pine timber, has always been an important lumbering point. T. B. Walker, of Minneapolis, built on the Red River a mill which, for those days, was a large one, and operated it for several years. The mill eventually burned. A little later R. H. McCoy and associates organized the Grand Forks Lumber Company and built a modern mill on the Red Lake river. This was burned and the present structure was built to replace it. The company saws 40,000,000 feet of lumber a year, and employs a big force of men. The Grand Forks Foundry manufactures wind stackers and other special lines, and does structural work Avhich is used in buildings all over the state. The Grand Forks Broom Factory turns out a product which is carried by the merchants all over the territory. The Congress Candy Factory has employed 50 hands and turned out a corresponding quantity of goods from a plant located in a modern building. The building burned in the early winter of 1908, and a new one of about twice its size and capacity is being built. The Golden Grain Biscuit Company is another institution that GRAND FORKS CITY 623 suffered by fire. It has employed 50 hands or more, but a fire put a stop to its operations for a time. The building was repaired and enlarged, and is again in operation with a full force. The Diamond mill has for years turned out 500 barrels per day of a brand of flour that has become famous. The Grand Forks Herald employs about fifty persons in its manufacturing department and turns out a big line of blanks, books and other goods of this class. In the same line is the Grand Porks Times, more recently established, and also doing a good business, and George A. Wheeler & Company turn out considerable printed work as well. Building blocks, tile and other articles made of cement are turned out in large quantities by half a dozen firms. The Turner Sash and Door Factory supplies mill work for the city and a large tributary territory. The sheet metal industry is another which gives employment to a large number of well paid workmen. Hotels and Early Boarding Houses. It is altogether certain that the first house for the accommoda tion of the traveling public stood where Judge Corliss ' house now stands. It was erected in 1872 by John Stewart, and was one of the stations on the Fargo, Pembina line of stage coaches. During this same year, but a little later, S. B. Andrews ran a hotel at 211 South Third street where the Advance Thresher Company's building noAV stands. A boarding house kept by John Fadden, who came to the place in the summer of 1872, stood near where the creamery now is on Third avenue. In 1874, the Hotel Arlington was built on grounds now covered by the two drug stores on the southwest corner of Demers avenue and Third street. It was then known as the Northwestern Hotel, and was built in the spring of 1874. The Park House stood where the jail now stands, and was built in the winter of 1874 and 1875, by William A. Rear, who also moved it to its present location in 1882. The Selkirk House was built about the year 1880. The Hotel Dacota stands on grounds once occupied by a hotel 624 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY built by a syndicate, and run by John Dow. It burned down and the present large structure was built in 1898. It is 125x125 and has two hundred rooms, and is one of the largest and best equipped hotels in the state. It is owned by Jerry D. Bacon. The Ingalls. The second hotel in Grand Forks was built by Captain Hugh Maloney in 1878, and called the Mansard House. It stands on the corner of Demers avenue and Fourth street and was rented to Colonel Ingalls in 1883, who changed the name to that of his own. Although he was in charge of the house but a few years, the name has been permitted to stand as it is. The property and its business has been in the possession of Mrs. Mary Maloney since the death of her husband some ten years ago. Charles Maloney, son of Captain Hugh and Mary (Smith) Maloney, was born in this house, June 19, 1875, was the first white male child born in Grand Forks. The Ingalls, now one of the historic land marks of Grand Forks, has been thoroughly refitted for the better accommodation of its patrons. It is a large three store building, having besides offices and other rooms forty-five well furnished sleeping apart ments, and which with gas, bath, hot and cold water, and with its central location for business purposes, makes it a desirable place for a public house. Captain Hugh Maloney was a seaman at the time of his en gagement with Miss Mary Smith, now Mrs. Maloney. He was in charge of a boat on the lake plying between Milwaukee and Chicago. Mrs. Maloney is of German descent. She was reared near the border line between France and Germany, but early in life was brought to this country by her parents, who located near Milwaukee, Wisconsin. She was married to Captain Maloney July 12, 1867, at Hancock, Michigan, and they came to Grand Porks in 1874, although he had been here steamboating on the Red River since 1872. He died June 16, 1897. One son and two daughters were born to this union. Frederick Hotel — Formerly the Antlers. This hotel has done its part in giving the city a reputation for the traveling public in the commercial line. GRAND FORKS CITY 625 The building is a fiA7e-story structure 50x100 feet, having large halls, commodious dining rooms, and a good basement addition, etc. It is run strictly on the European plan. It was erected by John S. Bartholomew in 1899, and first occupied by McGowan Brothers. They were followed by Prescott & Freeman, then J. J. Freeman, and he by Mr. Thomas E. Burke. Mr. J. J. Free man of Prescott & Freeman, met with a fatal accident in the hotel elevator. His inquest, by Judge McLoughlan, acting as coroner, was held August 21st, 1905. Mr. Freeman's widow sold to Mr. Burke, the former proprietor of the Columbia Hotel at Langdon. In 1907 Frederick Bartholomew, son of the builder, took charge and changed the name of the hotel to The Frederick, and he is now in charge. The Arlington-Park Hotel. This hotel comprises that of the Park House and the Arlington Hotel which were joined into one in 1900 and called the Arlington-Park Hotel, situated on Fifth street and Bruce avenue. The Arlington was built on the corner of Third street and Demers avenue in 1876. In 1883 it was moved to the corner of Third street and International avenue and a third story added. In 1900 it was moved to the head of Bruce avenue and Fifth street and connected with the Park Hotel run by A. Knudson, and stands on block number (1) of Traill's Addition, occupying the whole block. The Park Hotel was the first school house in Grand Forks. It was moved from the southeast corner of the present court house grounds in 1882 to the present site. The Arlington-Park Hotel is doing a thriving business, its seventy-five bedrooms being kept in almost constant use. The house is steam heated and has all modern improvements. Mr. A. Knudson, the proprietor, came to Grand Forks in 1882 from Faribault, Minn. He ran the Arlington when it was on Third street, and moved in 1900 to where they both now stand. In June, 1906, he purchased the property. Hotel Northern was built by Martin L. Gordon in 1889 and run under his management for two years under the name of "Hotel Gordon." 626 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY In 1892 the house passed into the hands of Trepanier & Got- sian and was leased to Colonel C. B. Ingalls, who refurnished the house complete and named it the Hotel Northern. Under the popular management of Colonel Ingalls the house Avon Avide and favorable reputation as a strictly first class hotel. The present owner and proprietor, Herbert N. Wells, pur chased the furniture of the Ingalls estate in October, 1893, and bought the real estate in 1901. The Hotel Northern is a brick building, three stories and basement. Has gas and electric lights, steam heat and baths, is conveniently situated for business and just across the street from the proposed site of the Union depot. Mr. Wells is a native of Faribault, Minn., came to Crookston in August, 1881, removing to Grand Forks in 1884, has been in the hotel business for more than twenty-five years. Rasmussen, Bemis & Company. This company has the only wholesale dry goods notion house this side of Minneapolis. The business Avas originated by Mr. M. Rasmussen, Avho started a general retail store at Inkster in 1884. He carried on there until 1905 when his removal to Grand Forks occurred, in order to establish a wholesale trade and where commodious quarters were found at 122-124 North Third street of that city. They are now located on two floors, each 50x120 feet, but prospects are bright for the building of a large store of their oAvn to meet their de mands of the near future. The incorporation of the company took place in 1906, M. Ras mussen, President ; V. E. Bemis, Vice President ; J. C. Rasmussen, Secretary and Treasurer. Mr. M. Rasmussen is a native of Denmark. He came to North Dakota in 1883, and took up his residence in Inkster, where he and his wife, Mrs. Mary Ann (Barry) Rasmussen, are knoAvn as ardent supporters of the Congregational church, and Avhere Mr. Rasmussen was treasurer and otherwise officially connected with that society. He is a 32nd degree Mason and a member of the Mystic Shrine of El Zagal Temple, Pargo, N. D. Merchants Transfer Company. This business was established by W. T. Sheppard about the year 1894. He Avas one of the GRAND FORKS CITY 627 original settlers of the place and is now in the storage business on Sixth street. Originally, the business supported but eight horses, a couple of hacks and one or two drays, but now that number has been about doubled. Mr. Sheppard sold to Barton and Parsons in 1902 and in 1905 the dissolution of that partnership took place and Mr. Fred Par sons ran the business until 1907, when the Thompson Brothers, consisting of Joseph G., William and Walter Thompson, took the management. Mr. Joseph Thompson has been in the transfer business for many years. His father, W. H. Thompson, came to the state as early as 1880 and was engaged for a time on the drainage of Park river. The business now supports four drays, a baggage wagon, two hacks and fourteen horses. Notes on Chief of Police of Grand Forks. J. W. Lowe, present Chief of Police of Grand Forks, was formerly a saloon keeper in East Grand Forks. In the year 1900 he became patrol man and in 1904 was appointed chief. He is supported by nine policemen and Grand Forks is, probably, one of the best governed cities under police protection in the northwest. The above statement is based on the fact that the system of police protection in Grand Forks has always been under the superintendence of men who, knowing how to apprehend crimi nals before they had time to commit wrong, have saved the city from their evil ways and misdoings. During Mr. Lowe's career but 226 arrests were made in 1903 ; 282 in 1904 ; 285 in 1905 ; 263 in 1906 and to March, 1907, but 254. The small number of arrests has been due largely to the efficiency of a judge who knew how to award criminals with long terms of imprisonment when found guilty, and to a system of police espionage which prevented crime by apprehending the criminal before he committed lawlessness. The Red River Valley Marble Works, Grand Forks, N. D. This business was started by Andrew Nelson in 1889. He was 628 HISTORY OF RED RIVER VALLEY succeeded by John Andrew Nelson in 1892, and in 1898 Rime Jeffrey, the present owner, became a partner, and in 1903, the sole owner. Mr. Jeffrey came from Huron county, Canada, to this place when fourteen years of age and first Avorked at railroading. Afterwards he became a farmer and began buying and selling lands. Mr. Jeffrey deals in Italian, St. Cloud granite and different stones from Vermont and the east. His trade is mostly local but he has put up monuments as far east as Minneapolis and as far west as Seattle. The Fire Department. August H. Runge, Chief of the Grand Forks Fire Department, took office in May, 1904. He was in the United States Navy during the latter part of the Civil War and came to Grand Forks from Minneapolis where he had an experi ence in the fire department of that city from May, 1883, till he became chief here. Mr. Runge was appointed by Mayor Duis and succeeded Charles Munsey, who had been in the department several years. At the present time the department has one combination chemical and hose wagon, an extra wagon, and every equipment belong ing to their new building necessary for quick and effective serv ice. The new building was erected in 1895. The system has thirty fire alarm boxes, a hydrant at every block, besides fifty-five six-inch hydrants and eighty-two four- inch, making a total of 137 hydrants in all. Water Works. Under the present system for supplying the city of Grand Porks water for daily use it is obtained as free from impurities and as good as can be found anywhere. The plant was built in 1885. Prank W. Whitbeck was super intendent at that time. He was succeeded by Hue Ryan and fol lowing him came John Budge, then John Lunseth, the present superintendent. With the exception of a term of six years under W. A. Satter- field, A. J. Roddy has been Chief of Engineers. He came to Grand Forks in 1879 as engineer on one of the Red River boats. He took office under Mayor Holmes by appointment in 1887. Mr. GRAND FORKS CITY 629 Lunseth, the superintendent, took office in May, 1904. He came to Grand Forks June 27, 1887. He was in the employ of the Grand Forks Electric Company for fourteen years. The capacity of the water works is 7,500,000 gallons daily, but only about 700,000 gallons of water, at most, are used. The filter will hold 1,000,000 gallons. The water is obtained from the Red Lake river. It is tested by chemists of tne State University every month, and results of the test are published in the "Herald." County Auditors — Grand Forks County, North Dakota. James Elton was appointed Register of Deeds and County Auditor when the county was organized. D. M. Holmes Avas elected to that office in the fall of 1875. He resigned in February, 1876, and W. G. Woodruff was appointed to fill the vacancy. D. M. Holmes was again elected in the fall of 1876 and was succeeded by Thomas Walsh in 1878. The office of county auditor, proper, was first filled by the appointment of John P. Bray, who took office in 1881, and was elected to