t-.

YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORU).

A VOYAGE

ROUND THE WORLD;

INCLUDING

AN EMBASSY TO MUSCAT AND SIAM,

1835, 1839, and 1837.

BY
W. S.^W. RUSCHENBERGER, M. D.
SDRGEON, D. S. NAVY ; HON. MEMBER OF THE PHILADELPHIA MEDICAL
SOCIETY ; MEMBER OF THE ACADEMY OF NATURAL
SCIENCES OF PHILADELPHIA, &.C.
AUTHOR OP " THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC."

'' J'ai dit le bien et le mal avec le meme franchise. — Rodssead.
" Believe me, I speak as my understanding instructs me ; and as mine honesty puts it to
utterance." The Winter's Tale.

PHILADELPHIA:
CAREY, LEA & BLANCHARD.
1838.

Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by Caeet, Lea
& BiAKCHAED, in the Clerk's Office of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

GEIGGS & CO., PEIHTEES.

TO

SAMUEL GEORGE MORTON, M. D.
COHBESPOSDIirG SECBETAEY OF THE ACADEMY
OF NATrnAI SCIENCES.
&C. &C.
Dear Sir, I beg you will receive the dedication of this volume,
as a tribute of the esteem and respect of a friend, who, while
he feels satisfied that he has spared no labor to make it worthy
of being introduced to the world, under the sanction of your
name, wishes it were more fitting your acceptance.
Very sincerely, your friend,
and ob't. servant,
W. S. W. RuSCHENBERGER,
Philadelphia, February, 1838.

Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by Caeet, Lea
, BiANCHAED, in the Clerk's Office of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

BEIGGS & CO., PnlNTEES.

TO

SAMUEL GEORGE MORTON, M. D.
COREESPONDING SECHETAET of the ACADEMY
OF NATrnAI. SCIENCES.
&C. &C.
Dear Sir, I beg you will receive the dedication of this volume,
as a tribute of the esteem and respect of a friend, who, while
he feels satisfied that he has spared no labor to make it worthy
of being introduced to the world, under the sanction of your
name, wishes it were more fitting your acceptance.
Very sincerely, your friend,
and ob't. servant,
W. S. Vi''. Ruschenberger.
Philadelphia, February, 1838.

INTRODUCTION.

ADVERTISEMENT.

The following pages, besides the journal of an Embassy from
the Government of the -United States to the courts of Muscat,
Siam, and Cochin-China, in the years 1835, 1836, and 1837, em
brace sketches in Zanzibar, Arabia, Hindoostan, Ceylon, Java,
Siam, Cochin-China, China, the Bonin Islands, the Sandwich Isl
ands, the Californias, Mexico, &c.
The voyage round the world was performed on board of the
U. S. Ship Peacock, commanded by C. K. Stribling, Esq., accom
panied by the U. S. Schooner Enterprise, Lieutenant Command
ing A. S. Campbell ; both vessels being under the command of
Commodore Edmund P. Kennedy. i
Since this volume was put to press, a posthumous work, drawn
up from the journals and letters of Mr. Roberts, written during
the years 1832-3-4, has been published, in which may be found
a history of the first negotiations with the courts of Cochin-Chi
na, Siam, and Muscat. Both works refer occasionally to the
same subjects, but they are distinct, and in no way similar.
Though the volume by Mr. Roberts possesses great interest, it
will be found that the present one, in relation to the embassy is
much more complete, and it is hoped the reader will find it not
' less amusing.
Philadelphia, February, 1838.

VOYAGE ROUI\» THE TV O R L D.

INTRODUCTION.

Voyages of circumnavigation have been so frequent of late, this
being the fourth within seven years by American vessels of war,
that neither noveltynororiginality of matter or manner can be looked
for in this work, though few ships have pursued the varied and
extensive track of the Peacock. I, therefore, only promise the
reader news of the several remote countries visited in relation to
their manners, political state, commerce and religion, upon which
topics the best sources of information have been carefully con
sulted. Let me caution the reader against expecting much in the way of
light description and graceful anecdotej "Novamos a bodas sino
a rodear el mundo," said Sancho, when he bade Mari Fernandez to
prepare every thing for setting out in search of adventures. I will
say with simple Sancho, " We are not bound on a party of pleasure,
but around the world," and though we may not expect in these days
to encounter giants and dragons, we may happen upon many pleasant
adventures. Therefore, Reader, be gentle and generous, and bear in
mind Sancho's remark; and when you encounter a dry statistical
chapter, think it is one of the hardships of voyaging with us, and
sustain yourself to the toil of reading it through, cheered with a hope
of something pleasant thereafter, and the reflection, it will be for
your goodj and I will venture to assert, you will rise from the
perusal improved in your knowledge, and, what is more important
to me, without a disposition to blame the author for the little he has
contributed to your amusement. That the volume contains no plea
sant stories to divert, nor "strange tales of strange endurance" to
move, is not his fault; for had events transpired during the cruise,

10 INTRODUCTION.
fitting for such chronicle, he would have been delighted to record
them. The volume may be charged with over-minuteness; but " There
is nothing," says Dr. Johnson, " too little for so little a creature as
man. It is by studying little things, we attain the great art of
having as little misery and as much happiness as possible." Critics
may find other points in the work to condemn; but we trust, some
among our readers will derive amusement, if not instruction, from the
following pages, written generally on the spot described, to bring
into view of the home-staying, what, probably, they would have ob
served for themselves, had they been with the writer.
The success of the work must depend upon the public; the author
has endeavoured to deserve it. He has written for no theory, nor
sect, nor party; but has aimed at truth, and hop^s in hitting his
mark, he has inflicted no wound on the pride or feelings of any of
his readers. As far as the nature of his task admitted, he has avoided
egotism — " The time, place, persons, and all circumstances apologize
for me; and why may I hot be idle with others? Speak my mind
freely? If you deny me this liberty, upon these presumptions I
will take it."
In presenting to the public a history of the embassy to Muscat
and Siam, it may be proper to state, what were the opportunities en
joyed by the author for obtaining the necessary information,
Mr. Roberts frequently expressed a wish that I would write the
history of our cruise, and in order to enable me better to perform the
undertaking, gave me free access to all documents in relation to
the embassy, and on every occasion expressed his views and opinions
on the several subjects which fell under our notice. Besides, he took
great pains to assist me in procuring statistical information, which,
owing to his ofiicial station, he was often able to obtain, when to
others, perhaps, it might have been denied. To him I feel indebted,
and with his many friends regret his loss to the country.
In the early part of his life, Edmund Roberts, of Portsmouth,
N. H., had visited several of the countries which lie to the eastward
of the Cape of Good Hope, and from information then and subse
quently obtained, he inferred that those sections of the world of
fered a wide field to American enterprise and profit. But he was
convinced, that voyages from the United States around the Cape of
Good Hope, must continue to be limited to a few countries, and uncer
tain in their results, until treaties of amity and commerce should be
formed between the government of the United States and several

INTRODUCTION. 1 1
powers of southern and Eastern Asia; in order to open trade with
some, and with others to settle definitely the manner in which our
merchantmen should be received, and the charges to which they
should be subject. In this latter respect, the practice in many
countries is very irregular, depending more upon the notion or whim
of the minister at the time, than upon any established law.
Mr. Roberts communicated his views in detail to his friend, the
Honourable Levi Woodbury, at that time Secretary of the Navy,
who laid the subject before the President. It was determined after
proper deliberation, that Mr. Roberts should visit the East, in ca
pacity, of "Special Agent of the government," and obtain all the
information he could, and negotiate treaties of amity and commerce
with such Asiatic potentates, as he might find favourably disposed.
Early in the year 1832, Mr. Roberts sailed from the United States
on board of the U. S. ship Peacock, then commanded by Captain
David Geisinger, and visited Brazil, Buenos Ayres, Java, Manila,
Canton, Singapore, Siam, Muscat, the Red Sea^ &c. In May,
1834, he returned, bearing with him two treaties which he had ne
gotiated, one with His Highness the Sultan of Muscat, and the other
with His Magnificent Majesty, the King of Siam. These treaties
were ratified by the President and Senate of the United States, in
June, 1834-, and Mr. Roberts was appointed to exchange the ratifica
tions. The Peacock was again put in commission to carry him on
his distant embassy, the history of which will be found in the follow
ing pages. " Le aconsejo en esto lo que debe de liacer corao dis-
creto si no lealo, y vera el gusto que lecibe, de su leyenda.''
Philadelphia, January, 1838.

12

THE U. S. SHIP PEACOCK

CHAPTER I.

VOYAGE TO RIO DE JANEIRO.
June, 1835.
When I bade farewell to my messmates in February, 1834, 1 little
thought to be named in March, 1835, a member of another mess —
" bounden brothers every man " — to roam the ocean, scarcely know
ing whither. Yet in one short year, the pains and privations of a long
absence had dwindled into mere shadows of memory, and prepara
tions were made for another cruise, not, however, without feeling
how deeply parting sinks into the heart. " First partings form a
lesson hard to learn;" and it is doubtful whether any one can teach
himself to say farewell to home, to friends, to country, without
emotion — " There is a sort of unexpressed concern,
A kind of shock, that sets one's heart ajar,"
which we cannot quite overcome, be the trial ever so frequent. At
sunrise on the twenty-third of April, I was roused by the order,
" All hands up anchor," delivered in the growling, imperative tones
of the boatswain. The ship was speedily under sail. The city of
New York, and its busy scenes receded fast from our view the
Narrows were passed; the bar was cleared, and at meridian the pilot
bore away the cape letters. At sunset the land had faded away in
the distance. Our hopes were all before us; and the past and the
present were only remembered to contrast with the future.
"A Dlos anaada playa; a Dios hogares,"
The United States ship Peacock, being not more than of six hun
dred tuns burden, is the smallest of her class. She has a light spar
deck which frees the guns from the encumbrance of rigging, and,
in port at least, affords the officers a sheltered walk in very°hot or

LOVE OF THE SEA  SEA SICKNESS. 13
rainy weather, besides a more ample space for the hammocks of the
men. In other respects the ship has no commendable quality. She
is an indifferent sailer, very wet, and, both for officers and crew, the
accommodations are very limited.* She is armed with twenty thirty-
two pound carronades and two long twelve pounders.
The ship being fitted in the winter, when cordage is inflexible as
bar-iron, the rigging stretched very much on putting to sea, though
every care had been taken in the outfit, and the seams opened in
several places, so that whenever the ship laboured, she was uncom
fortably wet. A few days after sailing, we encountered fresh gales,
then the gun deck presented a scene of despair, and doubtless there
were many regrets in mental reservation. The neophytes were
swinging to and fro in their cots or hammocks, in obedience to the
motions of the ship, wishing themselves safely on shore, free from the
distressingly nauseating effects of the sea. How few would per
severe in the choice of the profession, could they but escape in the
midst of the first fit of sea-sickness. Yet, when once over, how
strong are the ties which bind them to the ocean! Indeed, the love~
of a sea life is an acquired taste, and, like all acquired tastes, it is
apt to be enslaving. On one occasion I passed a night, at a French
boarding-house, with a naval officer who had spent seventeen years
actually at sea. He was very ill, but feeling himself somewhat
more comfortable than he had been, towards morning, he remarked,
" After all, doctor, there is no place for a man when sick like being
on board ship." Such was not the opinion of those " young gentle
men " who were now for the first time embarked upon the broad blue-
bosom of the Atlantic.
Sea-sickness is a penalty — a sort of initiation fee paid by every one
who ventures upon the broad domain of Neptune. Many plans
have been tried to alleviate the distress, beneath the influence of-
which the stoutest spirit quails, but no one of the many has been'
generally successful. In some individuals, nature speedily accom
modates herself to the new circumstances in which she is placed; in
others, whole voyages are not long enough to habituate them to the
motion of the ship; the disease continues, with more or less inten
sity, according to the roughness or smoothness of the sea. A simple,
and generally successful treatment, consists in keeping the head
cooled by the application of ice or iced water, and swallowing
nothing but the blandest articles of diet, as arrow root, barley or
* For a Hst of tlie officers and crew, see Appendix.

14 VOYAGE TO RlO DE JANEIRO.
rice water, &c. By this plan, the sense of fwlness and constriction of
the head, which characterize the invasion of tbe malady, will be
relieved, and the patient will become comparatively comfortable.
Ladies who cross the Atlantic in packet ships, where all the appli
ances of comfort procurable at sea are usually found, may find this
hint not thrown out in vain.
From the day of sailing, nothing of importance occurred out of the
usual routine of ship's duty. The passage was remarkable for a
great deal of rain, and we experienced very few days of really very
pleasant weather. On the 28th of May, being close to the equator,
we had a beautiful annular eclipse of the sun, between the hours
of eleven and twelve o'clock A. M. Although the thermoraoter did
not sink, the air wa& sensibly cooler, and the whole atmosphere
much darkened, yet no stars were seen. -
On the 10th of June, at sunrise we saw the coast of Brazil, stretch
ing between Cape Frio and the harbour of Rio de Janeiro, the hills, or
rather mountains, rising in broken outline in the gray of the morning.
The light land wind was quickly succeeded by a gentle sea breeze.
About three o'clock P. M. we descried a large sail under the land
to the westward of the Sugar Loaf, which proved to be the United
States ship Natchez, bearing the broad pendant of Commodore Ren-
shaw. At a distance of five miles we exchanged signals; and, on
hauling down our broad blue pendant and substituting a red one,
as is the custom when a junior meets a senior commodore, we fired
a salute of thirteen guns, which was promptly returned.
The breeze continued light, and fell almost calm as the sun sank
lower, so that we moved along at a rate not exceeding two miles an
hour. The sunset was a magnificent one, even for this tropical
region. The soft tints of the sky changed from the lightest orange
to a golden hue; from that to rosy, and then deepened to a blazing
red, which last faded away into the soft gray of twilight, leaving
the clouds no longer reflected upon by the sun, in their own som
bre colours. The effect of these hues on the imagination was height
ened by the bold and broken outline of the mountains, cast in strong
relief, by a flood of light poured upwards from behind them as the
sun sank. The moon was at her full, and as she rose, poured her
silvery rays over the smooth surface of the waters; and the modest
stars of the Southern Cross beamed forth in the calm purity of that
religion of which this beautiful constellation is an emblem. The
two ships of war, now slowly approaching each other, and with three
or four sniall vessels, were standing in for the harbour. On board

ARRIVAL AT RIO

ni, JANEIRO. 15

of our own vessel, all hands were at their stations for bringing ship
to anchor; and all were perfectly hushed, as if by a spell imparted
by the quiet glories of the scene around.
At half past five, the ships had approached so near that a boat
boarded us from the Natchez, and informed us, that having been ad
vised of our sailing from New York by a vessel which had arrived,
though she had sailed four days after us, the Natchez had been crui
sing off the harbor in expectation of our arrival. At eight o'clock
we encountered the land wind, and were obliged to anchor outside of
the harbor, where we lay very comfortably all night. The next
morning we got under way, and about ten o'clock reached our an
chorage opposite to the city. As we passed up the bay, every one
was charmed with the beauties of the scenery; indeed, several offi
cers recently from the Mediterranean, declared this bay to be in
comparably more magnificent than that of Naples. In fact, nothing
can be more romantic and diversified than the scenery around Rio
de Janeiro; turn where you may, the eye rests upon a spot to con
template and admire. But the sight is npt the only sense which is
delighted at Rio: there is a balmy sort of influence in the atmo
sphere which soon saps all industrious intentions, and induces a pro
crastinating disposition which is difficult to overcome. Every one
seems rather disposed to indulge in the quiet animal enjoyments of
eating, drinking, smoking, lounging and sleeping, leaving to slaves
all kinds of manual labor, and hence the embonpoint amongst wo
men and obesity amongst men of the Creole and Portuguese resi
dents.

SKETCHES

THE DOMINIONS OF THE SULTAN

OF

MUSCAT.

DOUBLE THE CATF. OF GOOD IIOPK. 19

CHAPTER II.

VOYAGE AROUND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO ZANZIBAR.
Seplember, 1835.
By the third of July the ship had been refitted, and to reciprocate
civilities which had been extended to us, the officers of the ward
room, on the sixth, gave an entertainment on board. As is usual on
such occasions the decks were dressed with bunting, flags, flowers
and lights, supported and reflected by bright bayonets, cutlasses
and pikes, disposed in the form of chandeliers. Music was ob
tained on shore, and suited well both feet and ears. About eight
o'clock P. M. the company assembled, danced, walked, talked, ate,
and congeed at three in the morn. People of several nations and
sorts were present, civil and military, in black and in embroidered
coats. The beauty of many of the ladies might be praised; but there
was one, a Brazilian, scarcely sixteen, and already married, whose
charms vvere declared beyond eulogy, by those who had 'seen balls
and revels in their time.'
The night passed away gaily, and many flattering compliments to
our taste were paid by our guests. They assured us, that it was the
most briUiant affair that had taken place afloat in the harbor of Rio;
several invitations were extended to the officers by Brazilians, an
unusual circumstance, and we were informed one or two entertain
ments were to be given on its account.
On the 12thof July M^e put to sea, accompanied by the U. S. Schoon
er Enterprise, Lieutenant-Commandant, Archibald S. Ciimpbell, but
soon found her to be so indifferent a sailer, that it was determined by
the Commodore to appoint a rendezvous and part company. In
obedience to a signal she came close alongside, and the orders, tied
in a piece of canvass and loaded with lead, were thrown on board.
That night we parted
Crossing the Southern Atlantic, attended by a common succession
of fair and foul weather, we doubled the Cape of Good Hope and

20

PORTUGUESE MEN-OF-WAR

entered the Mozambique channel, the scene of the first exploits of
Vasco de Gama in the East; but we saw nothing of the " FlymS
Dutchman;" seeing, however, off the cape a huge animal whose en
ormous back, covered with sea-weed and barnacles rose several feet
above the water, and had it remained quiet, every one would have
marked it as a rocky islet of the ocean, but it sank in a few mo
ments after it was discovered. What contributed much to the idea
of its insular nature was the light green colour of the water, although
we were too far at sea for soundings.
The south-west monsoon was drawing to a close, and in our pas-
sao-e through the Mozambique channel, we encountered currents
and calms; the former in our favor, the latter, of course, against us.
One of those calm nights was exquisitely beautiful; the sky was
cloudless and so brilliantly starry, that its deep blue color was dis
tinct. At the same time the surface of the ocean was tranquil, and
like a polished steel mirror reflected the whole heavens, and our
ship, seemingly suspended between the two, floated among the
stars — " These friendly lamps
For ever streaming o'er the azure deep,
To point our paUi and light us to our home."
One day, while becalmed, the shaded thermometer standing at
78° F. and great piles of motionless clouds, whose roUed-up edges,
silvered by the beams of a mid-day sun, were reflected from the
ocean, we observed numerous little animals of the zoophyte tribes
drifting slowly past us. Amongst them were " Portuguese men-of-
war," (Holulhuria physalis Lin.) and disks of from a half inch to
tvi'o inches in diameter, belonging to the family of Medusae (Medusa
porpita Lin.) Sailors are fond of observing animals of all kinds, and
no sooner was their attention directed to those in our vicinity, than
they began to fish for them with buckets, or tin pots attached by
rope-yarns, or with tin pots sei/.ed to poles.
The first disk caught vi'as compared to the passion flower. These
animals are perfectly round, flat, very thin and beautifully radiated.
Their color is of a yellowish white, and the edge is fringed with
delicate blue threads from one to three inches lona-, according: to the
size of the disk. These threads or tentaculas are, no doubt, the mem
bers with w4iich the animal is provided for seizing its food. The
possession of one begot a desire for more, and the dinggy — a small

JANTillXA. 21
skiff — was lowered, and, accompanied by Lieutenant II  , I
put off from the ship. We caught many " passion flowers," and
several Portuguese men-of-war. The last is a transparent bladder
of air, of irregular form, two or three inches long, somewhat corru
gated on the top, and armed below by numerous short lentaculse and
cue or two slender threads, several feet in length, set with diminu
tive blue masses, giving them the appearance of strings of fine beads.
This appears to form the instrument of attack. The animal possesses
the power of stinging, as our oarsman found; for his finger, after
being touched by one, swelled and the pain darted to his shoulder.
He compared the pain to that of a wound inflicted by a bee; it be
came so annoying, that we were obliged to set him on board ship,
where he was speedily relieved by the application of aqua ammonia.
The ocean was filled vvith small animals darting in all directions;
some flashing in the sun like rubies, and others, like hairs of glass.
We observed floating on the surface, small white masses, about three
inches long and one thick, resembling, at a short distance, froth or air
bubbles. We found, on examination, they were attached to very
delicate, violet-colored shells, belonging to Lamark's genus Jan-
thina. Over the vesicular buoy of this animal, the Portuguese
man-of-war manages to cast his thread, and, like a spider en
tangling his prey in his web, separates the shell from its buoy, and
feeds upon his spoil. Yv'hen taken, the Janthina emits about a tea-
spoonful of a deep purple fluid, in order, perhaps, like the cuttle
fish, to darken the water around, and thus elude the pursuit of his
enemies. " Here, sir," said Jack, handing me a shell, " Here sir, is
one that a Portengal has been afoul of—he is spitting blood."*
Among other forms of animal life was one resembling a shield, an
inch or two long, of a deep bluish color, and having a thin sail,
transparent as glass, shaped like a Gothic arch, set diagonally and
permanently across it. A slight shelly structure forms its basis; and
from the under surface hang numbers of thread-like tentaculae.
Pieces of wood pierced by worms (Teredo Navalis) were also picked
While fishing for these various objects, remarking the millions of
Httle animals floating, or darting about, only a few inches beneath the
surface of the sea, we observed that in the course of five minutes,
* I afterwards met with the Janthina, on tlie coast of Malabar, in the China sea,
in the gulf of Siam and at the Sandwich Islands. Those seen at the last place
were very much larg-er than any met with before.

22 EFFECT OF CALMS.
the water became transparent, and nothing v/as to be seen, except
here and there a stray man-of-war. Without any perceptible cause
they had all disappeared; the Janthina had gathered in his float, and
sunk into the depths of the sea, thence to arise again by inflating
his vesicular buoy, through mpans which are yet secret to man. I
am under the impression, the animal has the power of reproducing
it, when by any accidentit may be lost. A fish called the porcupine
fish, from the skin being covered with numerous spines, belonging
the family of gymnodontes (Cuv.) has an apparatus by which it is ca
pable of distending itself with air until it swells almost to a globular
form; when inflated, it turns upon its back and floats upon the surface,
and were it not for the spines which are erected by inflation, would thus
fall an easy prey to its pursuers. We caught several of the tribe. Two
hours before sunset not a Hving thing could be seen in the water; the
calm continued —
" The broad blue ocean and the deep blue sky.
Looking' with langour into each other's face."
On this occasion, Commodore Kennedy stated, he had been once,
for ten days, in so complete a calm, that the animalculse died, and
the ocean exhaled from its bosom, on all sides, a most insufferable
stench. Instances of this kind illustrate the utility and necessity of
winds and the agitation of the seas: absolute calms, continued for
any considerable period, in the winds or waves, would prove equally
¦ fatal to all manner of animal life. The respiration of all animals,
i whether this function be carried on by lungs, or gills or other organs,
is essential to their being. Those living on land breathe the atm.o-
sphere, and rob it, at each inspiration, of a portion of oxygen, which
principle is necessary to existence; those inhabiting the deep derive
the same principle from the waters, though by different means; and
in both cases, the air, or water, thus deprived of its vital principle,
must be replaced by fresh supplies, or in a very short time all the
oxygen in their vicinity is exhausted, and the animals, whether of sea
or land, must perish. But such catastrophes are guarded against,
and we find no phenomenon of nature v.ithout its purpose; the soft
zephyr, and gently undulating sea, as well as the hurricane and
Burging billow, equally in keeping with the great scheme of the uni
verse, serve to prevent stagnation and consequently the death of all
nature. One afternoon becalmed in the Mozambique channel, in sight of the
African coast, several sharks were seen in the neighbourhood of the

SllAUK-FlSUlNl-;.

ship; and to gratify the antipathy which Jack takes every opportu
nity to indulge against them, a large hook, armed with two or three
pounds of salt pork, and attached to a small rope, was thrown over
the stern. Presently a large fish of the tribe approached, moving
gracefully only a few feet below the surface of the transparent
ocean, darting now in one direction and now in another, resting for
a moment to survey the space around him before changing his course.
He gradually drew near, attended by the pilot fish, sailing as usual,
a few feet beneath him and following all his motions. At last the
bait attracted his attention, and, urging himself forward by a single
eftbrt, he supinated his body, opened wide his jaws and closed them.
with a devouring, but fatal avidity upon the hook. Till this moment
the officers and men had silently watched their prey, but now the
fisherman jerked the line, and a half dozen exclaimed, " You've got
him! you've got him!" In spite of violent struggles to escape, the
fish was drawn close under the stern and his head raised above the
water. Officers and men hung over the bulwarks, exultation beam
ing in their countenances, to catch a sight of the animal, which rested
quietly glaring his great eyes upon his enemies. The next step, in
order to get him on board, was to pass a bowline or noose round his
body, which required dexterity; for whenever the rope touched the
shark, he struggled so violently as to endanger breaking the hook.
At last he was secured and was quickly seen floundering, and lashing
his powerful tail upon deck. In an instant a dozen knives were
gleaming around him; and he had been dragged scarcely to the main
mast, before the tail was severed from his body by successive blows
of an axe. His abdomen was ripped up, and his heart cut out, laid
palpitating for some time upon the fluke of an anchor. Still he
floundered, and so powerful were his muscular exertions that several
" strong men could not control them. His huge jaws, armed with five
rows of sharp teeth, were removed, his brain exposed and head cut
off; and in five minutes, parts of his body still quick with life, were
frying at the galley under the knife and fork of the cooks, while the
fins and tail, like so many trophies were hung up to dry.
This fish was about ten feet long, and his jaws were capacious
enough to bite off a man's leg; but it was a small one, if we may
credit Blumenbach,* who states that the white shark, " weighs some
times as much as 10,000lbs, and even whole horses have been found
in its stomach." ¦• Elements of Natural History, London, 1825.

24 SHARK-FISHERIES  FEW FISH AT SEA.
On every shark which I have seen caught, there is attached, gene
rally under a fin, a remarkable fish, called a sucker or sucking-fish.
It adheres to sharks or other bodies by a flat oval disk, having a soft
skinny margin, and traversed by from twenty to thirty plates or
scales, which may be elevated or depressed at the pleasure of the
animal, and by which it exhausts the air and water beneath, and
sticks with a firmness or power equal to the pressure of the water or
air above. Hence, it was said , that it had the power of stopping a ship
under full sail. This disk or sucker is situated on the back of the
head, and gives to the fish the appearance of being reversed. Indeed,
it swims with the back downwards. It is without scales and is of a
dark lead color. Its size varies from a few inches to a foot or more
in length.
There are shark fisheries on the eastern coast of Africa and in
several parts of the Indian Ocean, for the sake of the fins, which are
esteemed by the Chinese and some other people, as a delicate article
of food. The flesh of the shark is dry and of an acid taste; indeed,
I know of no deep-sea fish that is very good eating. The delight
which sailors take in torturing and giving pain to the shark is sur
prising; and I have heard old officers say, they have never had a
fair view of the fish, because it was always mutilated by the sailors
the instant after being got on deck.
As remarkable as the fact may appear at first sight, there is no
class of people who eat so few fish as sailors. And the reason is,
they seldom obtain them. With the exception of flying-fish and dol
phin, and perhaps a very few others, fish are not found on the high seas
at great distances from land. They abound most along coasts, in
straits, and bays, and are seldom caught in water more than forty or
fifty fathoms in depth. To a certain extent this is true even of whales.
Indeed, it is questionable whether fish inhabiting the profound
depths of th« ocean, if theje be any such, ever approach the surface,
for their organization must be in relation to the great pressure
under which they necessarily live, and they would probably ex
perience a similar inconvenience to that felt by persons who ascend
very high mountains. Fish do not resort to the high seas, because
they there meet with nothing, or at best very little upon which to
subsist; the ocean being perfectly transparent and almost entirely
free from vegetable substances and anlmalculse of appreciable size;
whenever these appear, we may be certain that land is not at a very
great distance. On the contrary, it is in comparatively shallow
water they are found, in company with the endless tribes of moluscous

FISH DlE'I'  COMORO ISLANDS. 25
animals; and they are in greatest plenty within the tropics, where
the climate appears to be most favourable to their production.
This being true, we might suppose that sailors, on coming to port
would consume as much fish as those inhabiting the coasts; but,
having been confined for many days to hard salted meats and hard
bread, they find fruits and fresh beef much more to their taste than
any fish, however savory they may be to the palate of the landsman
or mere coaster.
Upon this subject, I suspect there is an erroneous opinion, pretty
widely spread on shore, if we may judge from the following re
markable sentences. " The immediate action of fish," says an
author of a local work on ' Boulogne sur Mer,^ which has been
partly translated for ' Leigh Hunt's London Journal,' and copied in
the first number of 'Waldie's Port Folio,' for August, 1835; —
" The immediate action of fish on the animal economy is not direct,
like that manifestly produced by any aliment in which ozmazome
predominates; neither are the fluids and solids renewed, as by
gelatine or fibrine; but in a manner much more calm. To this
property may, in a great measure, he referred the constitution of our
seamen; it is also to the mild and tranquil digestion of this food,
that we may attribute the uniformity of their actions and habits.''
W^ith equal propriety might the peculiar characteristics of the Irish
be referred to eating potatoes; but Paddy will blunder, feed him as
you will.
" Some authors have written that fish produce obstinate cutaneous
affections, ulcers, adynamic fevers and scurvy. We think that
there has not been sufficient distinction made here between the salt
and smoked fish, and fresh. Sharp seasonings may affect the skin
and the vital fluids; we have often observed these effects; but
scorbutic diseases and cutaneous affections, in general, are extremely
rare among our (French) seamen; whence we conclude that fish is a
wholesome food, proper in all cases not requiring a stimulating diet."
We passed out at the northern end of the Mozambique channel,
without having seen any part of the island of Madagascar, between
which and the eastern coast of Africa, the channel is situated. There
we had a hasty glance at the Comoro Islands, and met with fresher
breezes, which soon wafted us to Zanzibar. The Comoro Islands
are four in number. The largest of the group is about ninety miles
in circumference; its surface is broken into gently swelling hills and
smiling valleys. It contains about thirty thousand inhabitants,
originally from the African continent: they speak Arabic and pro-
4

26 ISLAND OF ZANZIBAR.
fess the Mohammedan religion. They live chiefly on vegetables and
milk, and are averse to labor. From their idleness they have ac
quired a haughty deportment, which is characterized among the
higher classes, by allowing the nails to grow long, which they occa
sionally stain of a reddish yellow by way of ornament.
Previously to possessing Cape Town, and the establishment at St.
Helena, English ships were in the habit of touching at these islands
for refreshments, on their voyages to and from India. Here they
met a kind reception, plenty of excellent fruit, water and provisions,
and a salubrious climate. At first, these articles were paid for in
cowries {Cyprea moneta) glass beads and other trifles; but after
wards, for their beeves, goats and fowls, the islanders demanded
money.* At meridian, on the first of September, contrary to our anticipa
tions, we found ourselves a few miles to the eastward, and in the lati
tude of the southern extremity of Zanzibar. We had been carried
to the northward by a current, fifty miles in about fifteen hours; so
that, in order to reach the port, which is on the western side, we
were obliged to double the north end of the island. Falling to lee
ward, during the south-west monsoon is not unusual; the same acci
dent befell the Enterprise a few days afterwards.
Zanzibar is an island situated about twenty-three miles from the
¦ African coast. It is forty-five miles long, with an average breadth of
ten or twelve. As we coasted it along, we observed the eastern side
to be skirted by coral, about a half mile from the shore, and though
the sea rolled and broke over the reef thus formed, in a sheet of
sparkling white foam for miles, within it was a strip of tranquil
water. The island is low, gently undulated, beautifully verdant,
crowned by trees of various kinds, and fringed with groves 6f cocoa-
nuts. After gazing on the blue skies and blue seas for fifty days,
such a sight carries with it an exhilarating and delightful influence,
which one must experience to understand.
Late in the afternoon, we anchored about a mile from Tumbat, a
small uninhabited island at the north-western end of Zanzibar. The
next morning, at half past eight o'clock, we left our anchorage and
spent the whole day beating along the island towards the town. We
had a fine breeze, and the waters were as smooth as those of a river;
but the haze of the atmosphere was too great to allow us a sight of
* Historia Politica de Ios Establecimientos Ultramarines de las Naclones Eu-
ropeas. Tom. II. Madrid, 1785.

OWEn's OHARTS^riLOT ANCHORAGE. 27
the African shore. The thermometer ranged from 75° F. to 80° F.
and about noon there were several smart showers. We passed
several coral reefs, and our keel scraped over two, neither of which is
marked in the recent survey of Captain Owen, R. N. In relation to
some particulars of the southern passage, I have heard the accuracy
of his charts questioned; but in general, they are correct, and better
than any heretofore published.
About four P. M. we were boarded by an Arab pilot in a crazy
canoe, paddled by a negro slave, entirely naked, except a string
about the waist. The Arab was rather more decently attired, wear
ing, in addition to the waistband, a large turban. He climbed the
sliip's side very agilely, and touching his breast with a finger, ex
claimed, "Me pilot," and delivered from a corner of his turban a
paper box, which, though labelled "Lucifer Matches," contained
several testimonials from English and American ship masters, stating
that "Hassan ben Sied was a safe pilot both in and out of the port."
Without pausing to replace his turban he stalked aft, and squatted
upon the tafferel, in the attitude of a frog, where he remained chew
ing tobacco, and by gestures directing the course of the ship. From
him we understood the Sultan was in Muscat, and the only foreign
vessel in port was an English schooner.
When Mr. Roberts took leave of the Sultan, in 1833, he expected
to be at Zanzibar on the return of the ship to these seas; but a
much longer time having elapsed than had been anticipated, the royal
visit was over, and his Highness had gone to Muscat in the strength
of the Monsoon, leaving us no choice but to follow him.
At sunset we anchored off the Sultan's palace at Metony, or Mtony,
three miles from the town of Zanzibar. From our anchorage we
saw two Arabian frigates and the masts of several vessels, called
" daus." A boat boarded us in the evening from one of the frigates
to make the usual inquiries; the rowers, ten in number, both ap
proaching the ship and going away, kept chorus to a song chanted by
the steersman.

28 CAPTAIN HASSAN — HIS COSTUME.

CHAPTER III.
SKETCHES IN ZANZIBAR.
September, 1835.
Early on the morning after our arrival, Captain Hassan bin Ibra
him, of the Arab Navy, visited the ship and was soon followed by a
boat load of fruit, fowls, and three great fat caponized goats, one of
which weighed 130 lbs. which were presented in the name of " His
Highness." Captain Hassan, besides acting the part of superintend
ent of the young Prince Seid Carlid, is considered as the agent for
foreign commerce, which office was given him by the Sultan in 1832,
and since that period he has transacted most of the American busi
ness at Zanzibar. In the afternoon he came again; indeed, during
our stay he visited us daily once or twice, caring for all our wants
and bestowing on us every mark of hospitable attention.
Captain Hassan is a native of Muscat and is perhaps forty five
years of age. He was educated at Bombay and Calcutta, where be
studied mathematics, the art of navigation and English, which he
speaks like a gentleman and with but little accent. He has since made
several voyages to Canton, Mauritius, the Persian gulf and the coast
of Africa. The expression of his countenance is mild, thoughtful
and benevolent; his manners are easy, and, like his costume, emi
nently graceful. His conversation is characterized by promptness
and intelligence.
His turban, which he told us is like those worn by all in the ser
vice of "His Highness," was of cotton of a fine blue check, bor
dered and fringed with red. It consists of several twisted turns
round the head, and the ends were left hanging, of unequal lengths,
behind one shoulder. His upper garment was of a light sort of
cloth, without collar or cape, perfectly plain, with wide, straight
slashed sleeves; on each side of the breast, instead of buttons, hung
long silk loops, by which to secure it over the chest. The color of

DVE FOR THE HAIR. 29
the " juma," as this coat is termed, usually worn by Captain Hassan,
was dark green. It falls a little below the knees; and beneath it is
worn a wrapper of pink silk, the sleeves of which are slashed and
turned up with yellow satin; and when the arm was raised the white
linen might be perceived. The wrapper was sometimes of white
cotton, and sometimes of fancy colored silk; but of whatever ma
terial, it was always secured about the waist by a girdle of cloth of
silver, twisted round the body, in the folds of which he carried a
handkerchief and steel snuff box of Russian manufacture. Over
this girdle is worn the sword belt, and the " khunger " or " jambea " a
highly ornamented sort of dagger. From halfway below the knee, his
legs were bare and his feet were protected only by sandals, which are
thick soles of undyed leather, fashioned after the general outline of
the foot, and secured by a broad strap over the instep, and another
narrow one, passing from its middle, betwixt the great toe and the
one next to it, to be secured to the sole. These straps are orna
mented with various colored knots and stitching; and the toe nails,
as well as those of the fingers are stained with " hena" (henna) of
a reddish yellow color. Such sandals are adapted to the faith of
the wearers, for they may shuffle them on and off without inconve
nience, whenever devotion calls them to the mosque. Indeed,
sandals and Islamism agree well together; the inconvenience of
putting on and off christian shoes and boots would be sufficient to
make even a Mussulman forego his prayers. Sandals force upon the
wearers a shuffling, sliding-forward sort of gait, which is far from
graceful. Such is the costume of an Arab gentleman in the present
day, and it was probably very much the same in the earliest times of
which we have any record.
The complexion of the Arab is somewhere between that of a Nortli
American Indian and the mulatto. The beard and mustache of the
individual just inentioned were long, silky, black, and carefully
trimmed. One day, speaking of the practice of dying the hair yel
low, common among the inhabitants of Socotia, Captain Hassan told
us that he himself was in the habit of dying his own beard black
every two weeks, with an infusion of indigo leaves. They are care
fully dried, finely powdered, and kept from the air in well stopped
bottles. When used, a small quantity is infused in boiling water,
and applied after becoming cold, and the hair kept from drying; at
the end of two or three hours, being washed off with pure water, the
hair or beard is found to be of a fine black color. The experiment

30

NEGRO ORNAMENTS.

was tried on board by several individuals with some of the powders
furnished by Captain Hassan, but without success.
Soon after breakfast I went on shore at Metony, the watering
place, accompanied by Lieutenant G  , and found every thing new
and interesting. The tropical vegetation, the wide- spread ing mango
trees, and lofty cocoanut groves, gently moved by the breeze, and
animated by numerous birds singing and hovering round their nests,
perched among the branches, afforded delight to us who had been so
long confined in our sea-girt home. Our men, in white frocks and
trousers, were rolling red casks to and from the watering place, and
offered a strange contrast to the negroes, armed with light spears six
feet long and bearing burdens upon their heads; their only garment
being a piece of white or checked cotton cloth, tied above the hips
and descending in folds nearly to the knee. The negresses wear over
their pendulous breasts, a similar cloth wrapped round the body,
which reaches from the armpit to the ankle. We met several who
had young infants suspended on their backs. The ornaments worn
by these females are various; some have the rim of the ear pierced
by a half dozen holes, into which are inserted buttons of wood, small
sticks, or silver studs; some have the lobe or pendulous part of the
ear slit and distended with a piece of round wood, an inch or more
in diameter; some have large silver rings through the middle of the
ear; some wear rose-formed silver buttons the size of a dime through
the ala of the nose, just where it joins the upper lip, which at first
sight may be mistaken for an ulcer; others wear thick silver rings
upon the wrists and thumbs, and others, large bangles upon the an
kles. In some cases all these ornaments are combined; and when
not of silver, they are made of tin or some similar metal. They all
appeared to be very cheerful; and they are certainly a most intelli
gent-looking race of negroes. After we had been wandering through
the cocoanut groves a short time, a negro brought us cocoanuts, trimmed
of the outside husk, and one end opened, and, signifying that we
should drink, cried " gaima, gaima — good, good." — Each nut afforded
a pint of slightly whitish fluid, which every one acknowledo-es who
drinks cocoanut milk fresh from the tree, to be ofa pleasant flavor.
We met two Arabs whose costume, to us, possessed a very pictu
resque appearance, particularly when viewed in connexion witb the
scenery around us. One was a smooth-faced youth, straight as an
arrow, in a skull cap, a girdle and a pair of pure white breeches
made very full, and looped up on the hips, exposing well proportioned
limbs, which promised strength and agility. In other respects he was

ARAB COSTUME  ARMS. 31
entirely naked. His companion, whose long black beard, mustaches,
and square shoulders showed him to be a full-grown man, walked a
short distance ahead. The costume of this individual consisted of
white breeches, large white turban, a frock buttoned straight upon
the chest to the throat, girded above the loins, and hanging half way
to the knee, and looped up on one side. He carried a Chinese
umbrella, folded, in his hand. The sandals of both were similar to
those already described. They saluted us as they passed by, grace
fully raising the hand to the head; they were of the better order, and
as they disappeared in the shady grove, recalled to mind Mad. Ce
leste in the character of the " Wild Arab."
While standing under some lofty cocoanut trees with our guns,
two Arabs came up; both dressed in white. One was a fine-looking man
with a sparse beard and mustaches, wearing a large turban and a
loose gown, buttoned to the throat. A long curved sabre, in a lea
thern scabbard, hung close under the left arm by a strap over die same
shoulder, which was retained in its position by another buckled round
the chest. A leathern belt over the girdle sustained in front a broad
'khunger' with a hilt of rhinoceros horn; two gourd-shaped powder
pouches of leather, one containing coarse powder for loading, and
the other fine for priming; a small box, containing flint, steel and cot
ton spunk; two small reed chargers, and a chunam box. He carried,
in his right hand, a long-barrelled matchlock, whose invention is
dated many a day ago. His companion was similarly attired, but
wore, instead of a turban, a greasy skull cap. His arms were a
'khunger,' along, straight, two-handed sword; and a round shield
of rhinoceros hide, a foot and a half in diameter, which hung at his
back, from the left shoulder.
Both parties were equally curious in the examination of the arms
of each other. Their sabres were fine blades, with edges keen as ra
zors; the matchlock, though it had seen its best days, was to me en
tirely new. The barrel was very long, and the inlaying of gold and
silver ornament was still visible; it was secured to a shattered stock
by numerous brass bands; the touch hole was large, and beneath it
was a large uncovered pan to hold the priming. A curved piece of
iron, two inches long, sHt at the end, played in a mortise, cut diago
nally through the stalk; this contrivance which is under the control
of a trigger near the breech, serves to guide the match to the priming;
the match, about the size of a whip-cord, is wrapped in numerous
turns round the stalk.
We compared our powder, and the fineness of ours surprised them.

32 THE MATCHLOCK.
We showed them the accuracy of our double-barrelled fowling pieces,
and proposed by signs that the Arab should charge the matchlock
with our ammunition, to which he readily assented. He first tore off
a strip of a rag which hung from the strap of his gun, passed it through
an eye in one end of the ramrod and wiped out the barrel. He next
stopped the touch-hole with a piece of paper and introduced the load.
He then struck fire and inflamed the match, which he introduced be
neath a sort of batton on the breech, where it remained until the pa
per was withdrawn from the touchhole and the priming put into the
pan, which he moistened vvith his tongue, to prevent the powder from
falling out. The match was now placed in the iron slit mentioned
above, and the piece was in a state for immediate use. Let any one
compare the matchlock with a modern percussion gun, and the pro
cess of loading, and he must be struck with the progress of improve
ment, and comprehend how comparatively inefficient fire-arms must
have been, when first brought into use.
The Arab stepped forward, and deliberately aiming at a little bird,
perched on the top of a high cocoanut, pulled trigger and brought it
to the ground; but the pleasure he would have derived from this dis
play of skill was dashed by an accident which in his eye seemed to
be without remedy. On taking down the matchlock, he looked at it
in sorrow, for the instrument was incapable of resisting the force of
Dupont's best sporting powder; the bushing was entirely destroyed,
and the pan was blown off from the barrel. Both Arabs searched the
grass for the lost pan but without success. The marksman conveyed
to us, by signs, an idea of the great loss he had sustained and showed
us his gun was now useless. We told him, as well as gestures could
convey our meaning, that we would carry it on board, and in two
days bring it to him again, completely repaired. When he compre
hended us, his countenance lighted up with joy, and, seizing our
hands, kissed them in token of gratitude. He resigned to us the
matchlock, which, at the end of two days, Lieutenant G  re
turned very much improved. Our armorer had bushed it, made a
new pan, and polished the brass bands; and the Arab was so much
pleased, he kissed the hand of Lieutenant G  again and again;
indeed, his "shooting-iron" as a sador termed it, was in a better
condition than before the accident.
The Sultan's palace at this place, Metoney, is composed of two
square buildings, the walls of which are of coral rock, and pierced
by square windows. They are two stories high, have flat roofs and
stand very close together; in fact, they are united by a sort of round

THE PALAOE  W.ATERtNG  HUMAN BONES. 53
balcony or tower, which rests upon wooden pillars and is crowned by
a peaked roof, the eaves of which are only a few feet above its floor.
It is resorted to in hot weather to enjoy the breeze, and at appointed
times, as some part of it faces towards Mecca, for the purpose of
prayer. In front, is planted a flag staff, where floats the blood red
flag of the Sultan from sunrise until sunset. In the rear of the
building are several offices and a small cemetery. A few lowly ho
vels, thatched with leaves and tenanted by slaves, are the only dwel
lings in sight. The whole are shaded by mango and cocoanut trees,
presenting a most agreeable scene.
The palace is now occupied by the young prince, Seid Carlid,
who is governor of the island, though no more than sixteen years old.
On the fourth of September, he received Commodore Kennedy, Cap
tain Stribling and Mr. Roberts, who speak in terms of praise of his
courteous manners and princely bearing.
Watering is a slow and difficult task at present, but in future the
difficulties will be removed, in a great measure, by the construction
of an aqueduct, near the palace, and which is now nearly finished.
When the tide is out, which rises nine feet, the stream is too shallow
to float a cutter, and this is the time when the casks should be filled
to secure the water fresh; therefore, it is necessary to wait the ebbing
and flowing of the tide, to get in and out with a boat, or roll the casks
over the sand. The men are exposed to the heat of the sun, and are
apt to be seduced into eating too freely of cocoanuts and fruits, and
to drink an intoxicating liquor obtained by fermenting the sap of the
cocoanut tree, which is almost always followed by cholera or fever.*
One day, on shore, we met a half dozen negroes, moving gaily along
the beach to the sound ofa rude sort of drum, composed of a hollow
cylender of wopd, about a foot in diameter and fifteen inches long,
having a dried serpent's skin stretched over one end of it. The open
end was held against the breast, while the other was beaten with the
palms. After he had played, and danced in a rude and lascivious
manner, we gave the musician some bright pins, which were to him ob
jects of great curiosity.
Wandering near the beach, to the northward of Metony, we found
numbers of human bones, and even entire skeletons, exposed upon
the surface of the ground. We were told, they belonged to persons
who 'did not pray' when alive. On the eastern side of the island,
there is a spot where the dead bodies of slaves are carried and cast
upon the sea shore, to become the prey of beasts and carrion birds,
• Owen's Voyages.

HARBOU-rCUSTaM HOUSE  SLAVES,

CHAPTER IV.
SKETCHES IN ZANZIBAR.
Septemher, 1835^
The harbor of Zanzibar, or, as it was anciently called, Zenjibar,
and Zanguebar, is formed by four small islands, consisting of a coral
basis, covered by a thin soil, which supports a growth of shrubbery.
These islands are much undermined and sea-worn; and the channels
between them are intricate, from numerous beds of coral and sand,
which are inhabited by several species of molusca. Among those
most sought after are the harp shell, which is found in the fine sand,
generally enveloped in folds of the animal by which it is formed. It
is this circumstance which preserves the beautiful polish of the shell,
preventing other inhabitants of the deep from fixing their equally
curious, but less sightly structures upon it. The same is the case
with most of those shells, which are admired for the highness of their
polish and the brilliance of their colors.
About ten o'clock one morning, we landed on the beach in front
of the custom house, where a number of Arabs and negroes, from
motives of curiosity, had assembled to meet us. The immundicities
of the vicinity declared most palpably the filthy habits of the people.
The custom house is a low shed, or rude lock-up place, for the
storing of goods; and connected with it, is a wooden cage in which
slaves are confined, from the time of their arrival from the coast of
Africa until they are sold. A sale of the poor wretches takes place
every day at sunset, in the public square, where they are knocked
off to the highest bidder. The cage is about twenty feet square, and
at one time during our short visit, there were no less than one hun
dred and fifty slaves, men, women and children locked up in it. The
number imported yeariy, is estimated at from six to seven thousand.
There is an import duty levied upon them, of from a half dollar to
four dollars a head, depending upon the port in Africa from which
they are brought. Some individuals on the island own as many as
two thousand, valued at from three to ten.dollars each. They work

nANYANS. 35
for their masters five days in the week; the other two arc devoted
to the cultivation ofa portion of ground, allotted to them for their
own maintenance. They cultivate chiefly cassada, a fusiform root
known in Peru as yuca, which, with fish, forms their entire food.
Under the shed of the custom house were several fine-looking
men, tall and straight, and of a lighter complexion and smoother
skin than the Arabs. Their costume is highly picturesque. The
head is shaved back to the crown, and the hair is permitted to
grow long behind, but the tress is folded on top of the head and con
cealed beneath a red or white turban, made high, somewhat in the
shape of a bishop's mitre; it is laid in fine transverse plaits, instead
of being twisted like that of the Arab, and in the centre of the lower
edge is a small knot, the form of which distinguishes the sect to which
the wearer may belong. The dress consists of a white robe, which
sets close about the neck like a collarless shirt, and is gathered about
the hips in such wise, by the help of a girdle, as to leave the lower part
of the thigh and leg bare. Behind the limb, it is folded from opposite
sides, so as to form an acute angle, the point being uppermost. The
sleeves are straight and large. The feet are protected by sharp-toed
slippers, the points of which turn up over the top of the foot. Such is the
attire of the Banyans, a race of people who are, among Mussulmans,
what the Jews are among Christians, a thriving, money-making class.
They are despised by the Arabs, and are obliged to submit to insult
and indignity, without being able to retort, or avenge themselves,
even if their religion permitted, which inhibits them, the shedding of
blood; their diet consisting of milk, ghee or butter, and vegetables.
Captain Hassan informed me, he had never heard ofa murder com
mitted by any of them, though he had known of frquent instances of
their being slain by the Arabs.
The features of the Banyan are regular, and the expression of the
countenance is placid and benevolent; their figures are straight and
well-proportioned. They are the principal store keepers on the
island; there is estimated to be about three hundred and fifty of
them at Zanzibar. They occupy small shops, or holes, raised a foot
or two above the street, in which they may be seen, sitting on the
floor with their knees drawn up, noting their accounts. Their knees
serve them for a desk whereon to rest their paper; and a pointed
reed and a thick black fluid, for pen and p«ip»r. They leave their
famiHes in India, and are absent from them for four or five years to
gether, at the expiration of which they return for a year or more.
When Vasco de Gama and his followers first doubled the Cape of

36

BANYA.NS.

Good Hope, the greater part of the commercial wealth of India was
in the hands of the Banyans. They were celebrated for their frank
ness. A very short time sufficed them to transact the most import-"
ant business. They usually dealt in bazaars; the vender told the
price of his goods in a subdued voice and in few words; the pur
chaser replied by taking his hand, and by a certain manner of
doubling and extending the fingers, explained what abatement he
wished in the price. The bargain was often concluded without
speaking a word; and, to ratify it, the hand was again taken in token
of its inviolability. If any difficulty occurred, which was rare, they
preserved a decorum and politeness towards each other, which one
would not readily imagine. Their sons were present at all contracts,
and they were taught, from their earliest years, this peaceful mode of
conducting business; scarcely had reason dawned upon them, before
they were initiated into the mysteries of commerce, so that in some
cases, they were capable of succeeding their fathers, at the early age
often years.
The Banyans held some Abyssinian slaves, whom they treated with
singular humanity; they educated them as their own children or re
lations; instructed them in business; advanced them funds; and not
only allowed them to enjoy the gains, but also permitted them to dis
pose thereof to their descendants.
Their expenses were not in a ratio to their wealth; compelled, by
the principles of their religion, lo abstain from viands and strong
liquors, they lived on vegetables and fruit solely. They never de
parted from their economy, except when they established their sons;
on which occasions, large sums were spent in feasting, music, dancing
and fireworks; and they boasted of the expensiveness of their wed
dings. The Banyan women had the same simple customs. All
their glory was to please their husbands; they were taught, from their
earliest years, to admire conjugal respect and love, and with them,
this was a sacred point in religion. Their reserve and austerity
towards strangers, with whom they never entered into conversation,
was in accordance with such principles; and they heard in astonish
ment of the familiarity that existed between the sexes in Europe.*
Such were the Banyans three centuries gone by, and we have
reason to think, they have not been entirely chano-ed.
Near the custom house, we met Captain Hassan, who conducted
us to his house, and, on the way, pointed out a large building, now
•EstablecimientosUItramarinos. Tom. III. Madrid 1786.

CAPTAIN Hassan's house. 37
erecting by the Sultan as a palace for himself. The walls are of
coral rock, cemented by lime, oblained by burning the same sub
stance. We passed an old fort, built by the Portuguese, and several
guns of different calibre, but all so time worn as to be useless.
The entrance to Captain Hassan's dweUing was through a door
whicbopened from the street into a small, dirty yard in which were se
veral jackasses, two or three dogs and half a dozen lounging slaves. A
dark, rough stone stair-way conducted us to an open court in the
second storji, which was forty feet long by twenty wide. The flour
was of hard plaster or "chunam." Atone end of the court were
some neglected flowers, growing in pots; two small rooms, occupied
bv servants opened on one side, and on the other was a paved cor
ridor, furnished with ^Vindsor chairs and a table, above which
hung a " punka," or large fan of cotton cloth, stretched over an ob
long frame of wood. Besides these articles, there was a bureau at one
end with a clock upon it, whose features at once declared its place of
origin to be New England. A cage full of small doves, and a glass
lamp shade were suspended from the ceiling, and the wall was orna
mented by several English prints of rural subjects. Tvvo small
apartments for all purposes, opened upon the corridor, from which,
after we were seated, brandy, water, wine and glasses were brought
out and placed upon the table. We were invited to drink, and were
offered cigars by a Mr. Ross who has lately established himself at
the Captain's as physician to the young prince.
After chatting a half hour, we took leave, and wandered through
the narrow, dirty, streets, which wind across each other much after
the fashion of the threads in a tangled skein. We soon found our
selves subjects of curious observation, and presently we were fol
lowed by a half dozen Arabs, who manifested a kindly disposition
to gratify our curiosity, in respect to the things around us. Meham-
met Hammis, a boy of fourteen, of very dark complexion, though de
scended of Arab parents, and a young man named Abdallah, at
tached themselves td our suite. Both of our new friends spoke Eno-
lish very well; the former had been instructed by his father, a man
of pretty extensive business, but now absent, and the latter had been
on board of one of the vessels, under the command of Captain Owen
when surveying the coast. Abdallah was marked by the small pox,
and the expression of his countenance was that of active cunning,
while young Haminis's possessed a look of open shrewdness. Both
wore checked turbans and white gowns; and Abdallah carried a
long two-eged sword under the left arm.

OS STREETS — ARMORERS.
Though the number of persons we met was not great, they filled
the narrow lanes through which we were passing. Negroes armed
with spears, Arabs bearing swords, dirks and round shields of rhi
noceros* hide, and unarmed Banyans, under high, red turbans, met
us at every step, passing in one direction or another. Many Arabs
of the lower class, except a girdle and a cloth hanging from the hips,
were naked; but few were without arms. I have never before seen
a finer display of straight figures and athletic limbs, nor more cheer
ful countenances, than those presented in the streets of Zanzibar.
The color of the Arabs here, is almost as deep as that of the ne
groes, but these are not so jetty as those from the western coast of
Africa. Upon several of the doors were pasted, slips of paper upon which
were written in Arabic, sentences from the Koran. The people
were all actively employed. Before some of the houses, on raised
terraces or porches of mud, men were weaving cloth for turbans by
hand; others were making, of gum copal, colored red, various orna
ments worn in the ears, and beads for the " tesbia," or Islamic ro
sary, which consists of ninety nine black and three red beads, and
except the cross is like the rosary used in the Romish church. At
one door sat a woman, cross-legged, stringing beads for sale; she
was remarkable for the large white metal bangles on the ankles,
large bracelets, and a succession of small silver rings in the rim of
the ear, as well as for the under eylids being stained black. At the
corners of the streets were armourers at work, whose appearance
carried the mind back to the early ages. There were generally two
men together. Both squatted upon a terrace of mud, a half dozen
feet square, shaded by a rude shed of cocoanut leaves. A hole in
the centre served as a furnace, to which a continuous blast of air
was directed by very primitive means. Two goat-skin bags, having
at one end, an opening or slit, like a purse-clasp, each lip of which
encloses a rod, while the other communicates with the fire by a tube,
form the bellows. The blower, squatting near, holds a bag in either
hand by its mouth, alternately filling and blowing them out. As he
draws back one arm, he relaxes the grasp of his hand, permittino-
the mouth of the bag to open and fill with air; next, he closes and
presses it towards the fire by straightening the arm; while, at the
same time, the other one is drawn back, the grasp relaxed as at first,
*Mi'. Bakewell, in the third American edition of his g-eology, p. 306, would
lead us to believe that the rhinoceros belongs to the extinct species of animals.

CHILDREN  WELLS— OEMETKRIES — OIL-MILL. ,59
and so on, by turns, in rather quick succession. The smiths were
chiefly occupied in making arrow and spear heads.
Among the strange things which attracted our notice, were the
young children, carried in the arms or on the backs of their nurses.
Their faces were marked with bteck lines; two over the forehead
and one over the nose, which were crossed vertically by three others,
and in the squares, thus formed, were black spots, giving them the
appearance of young Harlequins. With few exceptions, every one
we saw was the subject of umbilical hernia.
Wells are numerous through the town; they are all square, and
few of them are more than fifteen feet deep. They have no barrier
around them, and their walls are not carried above the surface of the
ground; their vicinity is disgustingly filthy, and the water itself is
thick as that in a puddle, which may be attributed to the want of
rain for the past seven months. Children were seen slowly filling
earthen jars, by the aid of cocoanut shells, having holes in their sides
and cords attached, and bearing them away upon their heads.
Places of interment are frequent, and are not enclosed. The
tombs are simply low walls, four or five feet long, fancifully ter
minated above, plastered with lime, and without inscriptions. Some
of them are ornamented with pieces of porcelain thrust in to the plaster.
Mehammet informed us that the bodies of Moslems are buried with
out coffins, but those of ' Christians were put into boxes.'
Our new friends conducted us to a mill for the manufacture of oil.
The mill or press consists ofa wooden mortar, with a conical cavity,
about four feet deep, and not less than three feet in diameter at the
top, which was encircled by a broad flat rim. Around the walls of
this mortar, and closely pressing them, rolled a pestle, six inches in
diameter; one end was secured at the bottom of the mortar, and the
other to a heavy beam of wood, to one end of which a camel was
harnessed, on the other was suspended a weight. There were two
of these mills under the same shed, and four camels. In one they
were pressing the oil from the cocoanut; and in the other, from a
small flat seed, called ' sesira.' The sesim oil is used for lamps, but is
very inferior to that of the pulp of the cocoanut, which burns with a clear
bright flame, when the atmospheric temperature is above 70° F. but
below that degree, it becomes solid. It is an article of export to
England; and is the only oil used in a great part of the East. The
camels, when at work, are blindfolded, to prevent them from at
tempting to thrust their heads into the mill, which they are apt to d®
for the sake of the oil-cakes, which are given to them freely.

40 COMPARISON OF ARMS  HAMIRA.
From the oil press, Abdallah carried us to his dwelling, and,
spreading mats upon a raised terrace of earth in his hovel, invited us
to be seated. While he was absent in search of harp shells, which are
caught and sold, in great numbers, by the natives to foreigners,
several Arabs collected about us, and there was a mutuul examina
tion of sword blades. Those worn by us bore no comparison as re
spects excellence of temper to those of the Arabs, and they were not
backward in pointing out the difference. Holding the sword verti
cally in the hand, they suddenly flexed the wrist, and in this way
caused the blades to vibrate from hilt to point for several seconds;
but when ours were subjected to the same experiment, they remained
almost motionless, Hke bars of lead: — indeed, they are more for
show than use; for every officer, in case of necessity, supplies himself
from the ship's armament, with weapons that will bear service. Our
whole dress was closely examined by these people, but nothing ex
cited so much wonder in them, as our gloves, which they were
anxious to purchase.
We next visited an Arab merchant, named Hamira, who speaks
English intelligibly, and transacts a good deal of English and Ame
rican business. We entered a small yard, on one side of which was
a shed, filled with piles of teak wood, and ascended a flight of rough
stone steps to the second story; and, passing through a door-way,
closed by a curtain of green baize, found ourselves in an open court
about twenty-five feet square. The left side of the court was occu
pied by two apartments, used as kitchen and servants' room; and that
in front of the entrance, by other rooms, tenanted by the family.
That in which we were received, was about ten feet broad, and per
haps, twenty-five or thirty long; but its whole extent was not visible,
because one end was screened by a curtain hanging from the ceilino-.
The walls were hung with sabres, daggers, shawls, turbans, &c., and
the furniture, placed without any regard to order, consisted of three
large chests, a table, Chinese chairs and a writing desk. This room
communicated with an inner apartment, which we soon discovered
was sacred to the females; for curiosity, not less probably in the
Arabian than in ladies of other countries, induced them to peep at us
from behind the door, which was ajar.
We found Hamira with his two sons and several friends squatted
round their noon-day meal, which was spread upon the floor. On the
outer threshold reposed the. sandals of Hamira's guests; for in place
of showing respect, by uncovering the head, as is the custom amono-
Christians, the Arabians do it by baring the feet. Those before us

THE KHUNGER  POLYGAMY  FOLDING OF LETTERS. 41
were attired in skull caps, loose white gowns, and girdles in which
they wore a 'jambea ' or ' khunger.' This formidable weapon, with
out which an Arab is seldom seen, is about two and a half inches
broad at the hilt, which is of Rhinoceros or buffalo horn, ornamented
with silver or gold, and gradually tapers to a point. The blade is
two-edged, and at a point beyond the middle forms an angle of about
one hundred and twenty degrees. The sheath, generally made of
scarlet, and sometimes of dark-colored cloth, is ornamented, like
the hilt, with silver or gold. The ' khunger' is worn in front of the
waist, sustained by a strap, which is often richly embroidered.
As we entered, Hamira rose and welcomed us to his house, and,
placing chairs for us, immediately ordered cocoanuts to be brought.
He and his friends at once opened one or two for each of our party,
and vve found them very refreshing after our stroll in the sun. The
dinner was cleared away by the servants, and Hamira talked with us
tipon various subjects. Speaking of his countrymen, he said, at the
same time, shaking his head, "Ah! Arab man plenty bad, plenty bad;
him cheat you all times, he can."
" The law allows every Arab four wives, pray, Hamira, how many
have you?" asked one of our party.
" Me no got wife now — she die. Now me got one concubine. That
very bad, have more than one woman; one wife or one concubine.
Suppose you have more, they always fight; suppose Hve in same house,
they fight; suppose live in different house, they fight, and the man
can no be happy. The woman very bad for that." Captain Hassan,
on the occasion of our speaking upon this subject, expressed the same
opinion, and said very few Arabs had more wives than one.
Hamira opened one of his chests, and exhibited sundry boxes of
old watches and trinkets; Cashmere shawls, and a small tin kettle,
filled with vials and papers of medicine. He showed us also a copy
of the Bible and New Testament, in quarto, in Arabic, which, he told
us, he had read, saying, " Him very good book, but me like Koran
better." Afterwards he offered us quantities of luscious mangoes, and some
oranges: the latter, however, were sour. While eating the fruit, (our
only dinner that day,) Hamira received a letter, which, on account of
its fbrm, attracted our attention. It was folded up across the whole
sheet, so as to be about an inch wide, and then doubled in the mid
dle, the two ends being bound together by a riband of paper, and
sealed with paste. When we sailed for Muscat, the letters sent by
us were folded in the same manner, or rolled up as hard as possible,
6

42 SCHOOL  KORAN  COURT OF JUSTICE.
and the edge pasted, the latter form is in use, almost exclusively,
among the Banyans.
On descending to the yard, we entered a small room at one end of
it, in which a half dozen children were seated on the floor, a la
Turque, reciting lessons, at the top of their voices, in a most unplea
santly nasal and monotonous manner, to an old white-bearded peda
gogue, who sat upon the ground hugging his knees. Each pupil was
supplied with a board, eight inches broad, and a foot and a half long,
on which they were learning to write by the aid of a pointed stick,
The only books to be seen were two large copies of the Koran, bound
in red velvet, and supported on stands two feet high, so that when
they read it, the sacred volume is higher than the girdle, seated as
they were. The children were committing verses of it to memory,
and after the recitation was over, the book was carefully wrapped in
a cloth and carried up stairs. The pedagogue would not allow us to
touch it. The Koran is held in the greatest reverence and esteem
among all Mohammedans. " They dare not so much as touch it with
out being fir§t washed or legally purified; vi^hich, lest they should do
by inadvertence, they write these words on the cover or label, ' Let
none touch it, but they who are clean.' They read it with great care
and respect, never holding it below their girdles. They swear by it,
consult it in their weighty occasions, carry it with them to war, write
sentences of it on their banners, adorn it with gold and precious
stones, and knowingly suffer it not to be in the possession of any of a
different persuasion."*
After reaching the street, we stood talking v/ith Hamira for seve
ral minutes, and he appeared to be somev/hat impatient of our delay.
Chairs were presently brought out, and he said, " Suppose you sit down
one little, while me go pray — me come back very quick." He was
equal to his word; his absence did not exceed five minutes.
Towards sunset we walked to the place of embarkation. Near the
old castle a number of persons were collected, waiting for the open
ing of the court of Justice: its sessions are held, every afternoon after
prayer time, at the castle gate, in the open air. It is composed of the
governor and three judges, they are very patriarchal-looking gentle
men with long white beards, dirty white gowns and great sabres un
der their arms; and, to judge from appearances, one would conclude,
they had lived from the time of Moses, without washing their vest-
jnents or trimming their beards. Two of them were seated upon
? Sale's Koran, Philadelphia, 1833.

CORAL FORMATION. 43
some boards, beneath a shed, amidst a group of people who seemed
to be interested in their remarks. Under the same shed was a beau
tiful leopard, in a cage, which had been caught only a few days. Such
is the simplicity of the court! In the street were several groups of
Banyans unarmed, naked negroes, leaning on their spears, and fierce-
looking Arabs, resting on their matchlocks, with the left leg crossed
behind the right one — all waiting, with seeming indifference, like men
of leisure, the arrival of the governor. Prince Seid Carlid. But we
could remain no longer, and at sunset returned on board, satisfied that
the town of Zanzibar and its inhabitants, possess as few attractions
for a Christian stranger as any place and people in the wide world.

CHAPTER V.
SKETCHES IN ZANZIBAR.
September, 1835.
Like many islands in the Indian ocean, as well as the Pacific,
Zanzibar owes its origin to the labors ofa marine animal of diminu
tive size. When we reflect upon the minuteness of the animals
which form coral, and compare with their tiny bulk, the stupendous
results of their labors and the hardness of the substance which they
produce by a secreting process, we are struck with wonder; and,
vainly inquire, — Whence do these animals derive the material for
the production of such vast beds of calcareous matter, that they can
build up, for hundreds of fathoms in the depths of the ocean, islands
capable of sustaining thousands of human inhabitants? So vast are
the quantities of calcareous substance produced by the moluscous
tribes, that learned men have supposed all the lime found in the
earth is derived from their organization and its functions, which seem
to be almost inscrutable. The extent of coral formation, without
reference to the immense quantities of shells, formed by other nio-
iusca, would be sufficient for such a theory? but it is not our purpose

44 POSITION OF ZANZIBAR  PRODUCTS.
to discuss so interesting a question, and we therefore refer our read
ers, for information on this subject, to the writings of geologists.
The labors of the coral insect present us a variety of formations;
some of them solid as rock, which is used at Zanzibar, as well as in
ether parts of the world, for architectural purposes; some are found
resembling trees and plants, and others grow up in the form of fans,
irregularly reticulated, and elastic in structure. Their colors are as
various as their forms; but the white, which is also solid, or nearly
so, most abounds, and is the sort usually found as the basis of coral
islands. The formation of coral islands is interesting. Scarcely does the
structure of this ant of the sea, outtop/he surface of the ocean, pro
bably from some volcanic mass upheaved from the bottom, before it
becomes covered with soil, which is more or less valuable, according
to circumstances. Vegetable remains and seeds are first cast by the
waves upon the growing island, which, in time, decay and form
earth; in this the seeds take root, and the plants, in their season,
perish, and their destruction adds to the soil. Thus, every year pro
duces new accessions, until, as in the present instance, a rich loam,
lying deeply on the coral basis, sustains flowers, shrubs, and forest
trees, and we behold the island clothed in a luxuriant and beautiful
vegetation. According to Captain Owen's chart, the island of Zanzibar ex
tends between five degrees, forty-three minutes, and six degrees,
twenty-eight minutes of south latitude. The latitude of the town,
also called Zanzibar by foreigners, but often designated by the inha
bitants under the names Hamuz, or Moafilfe, or Baur, (which names,
however, pertain rather to sections than to the whole town,) is six
degrees, ten minutes south, antl the longitude thirty-nine degrees
and ten minutes east from Greenwich.
Among the vegetable productions of Zanzibar, besides several sorts
of hard wood, suited for building and cabinet work, we may men
tion the cocoanut, mango, jacca, copal, Colombo, tobacco, cloves,
nutmeg, cassada, banana, &c. &c.
The cocoanut, which belongs to the extensive family of palms,
grows in every region within the tropic belt of the globe, and is al
ways a prominent feature in tropical scenery. Its trunk, which is
supported by numerous small fibrous roots, rises gracefully, with a
slight inclination, from forty to sixty feet in height; it is cylindrical,
of middling size, and marked, from the root upwards, with unequal
circles or rings, and is crowned by a graceful head of large leaves.

COCOANUT TREE — COPAL. 45
The wood is light and spongy, and therefore cannot be advantage-
ouslv employed in the construction of ships or solid edifices, though
it is used in building; huls; vessels made of it are fragile and of Httle
duration; but its fruit, at different seasons, its branches, and its leaves
are applied to many useful purposes. The sheath, covering the low
est or first leaf, is used for a sieve; the leaves are used in thatching,
for making umbrellas, fans, sails, and even nets, and the very young
ones may be substituted for paper. The fruit, or cocoanut, has a
filamentous baik, or covering, two or three inches thick, known in
commerce as coir, or kyar, is manufactured into coarse fabrics, and
cordage; and it also serves for caulking, and is exclusively used for
this purpose throughout the east. The nut contained within this
bark is about the size of a small melon, and the shell is converted
into cups and other utensils; the pulp, lining the shell, is a whole
some aliment, and yields an excellent oil, used both in cooking and
for burning, and, lately, means have been discovered in England of
manufacturing it into candles; the oil-cake becomes the food of ani
mals, and, in times of scarcity, of the poor. The centre of this great
nut is filled with a clear, somewhat sweet, and cooling fluid, which
is equally refreshing to the laborer and traveller. When the nut
becomes old, or attains its full maturity, the fluid disappears, and the
hollow is filled by a sort of almond, which is the germinating organ;
sometimes a calculous concretion is found in its centre, to which pe
culiar virtues have been attributed. But these are not all the uses
of the cocoanut. By cutting off the stems of the bud, before the
flowers blow, a white liquor exudes from the cut exhemity, whicb
is usually received in a vessel tied there for the purpose; it is called
" toddy," and is a very common and much esteemed beverage.
By fermentation it is converted into vinegar, which, by distillation,
yields a fiery spirit; and, fermented with lime, affords a sort of
sugar.* The copal is described as a large tree. It yields a gum, used in
the manufacture of varnish; it is found about the roots, whence it is
dug up in large quantities, and is often obtained from places where
the tree had grown many years before. The gum is exported to the
United Stales, there manufactured into varnish, and in that form
brought round the cape of Good Hope and sold in India.
Among the animals on the island are goats, sheep, Guinea fowls,
and domestic fowls, which are very cheap (about a half dollar per
• Establecimientos Ultrafflarinos, Tom, 1, Madrid, 1784.

46

ANIMALS  CLIMATE — POPULATION.

dozen;) leopards, lizards, scorpions, several kinds of serpents, among
which is a large species of coluber, vulgarly designated a boa con
strictor, which is, I believe, peculiar to America; but the most im
portant is the zebu {bos indicus) which is held sacred by the Ban
yans and other Hindoos; it resembles the ox, but differs from it in
being of inferior size, in having small, short horns, and in having a
fleshy hump over the shoulders, which is appreciated as a delicious
morsel. There are also many birds of beautiful plumage; and the
groves, and shores abound in varieties of the moluscous tribes.
The climate is warm, and very insalubrious for Europeans, Ame
ricans and even unacclimated Arabians. The island is generally un
dulated, and is crossed by three principal ridges or hills, the highest
of which may be five hundred feet above the sea. In the bottoms of
the valleys thus formed, are found, particularly at the close of the
rainy seasons, marshy plains and .swamps, attributable to drainage
from the hills. In the neighborhood of these low, damp grounds,
dysenteries, diarrhoeas, intermittent, and fevers of a malignant cha
racter prevail, particularly at the change of the monsoons; that is,
from March till May, and from October till December. Those
periods are also the rainy seasons. Almost all those of our crew
who wei-e employed in watering the ship, were attacked with chole
rine, after getting to sea, and one who slept on shore suffered
severely from fever. In this respect, Zanzibar is little better than
the whole east coast of Africa, if we may credit the accounts of
Voyagers from the earliest to the present time.*
At present the population of Zanzibar is estimated at 150,000
souls, of which from ten to twelve thousand reside in the town.
This population is made up of Sowft-lies, or, as they pronounce it most
gutturally, Zuaichlies, Arabs, East Indians, free negroes and slaves,
the last being about two-thirds of the whole. The free negroes are
estimated at 17,000. When the island was wrested from the hands-
of the Portuguese, they gained their freedom by flight; but, for a
certain time were forced to lend personal service to the Sultan, from
which they are at present exempt in consideration of a yearly tax of
two dollars a head. The Sowalies are of au African tribe, and do
not speak Arabic well; indeed. Captain Hassan assured me, he could
with difficulty understand them, and on important occasions, wherein
any of them were concerned, he always employed an interpreter.
On his return from Calicut, on his first voyage around the cape of
* Owen's Voyages along the east coast of Africa, as well as the voyages-
of the early Portuguese and English navigators.

COMMERCE  AMERICAN COTTON r.OGDS. 47
Good Hope, Vasco. de Gama visited Zanzibar, in February, 1449.
At that time it was inhabited by Arabs, or Moors, who are repre
sented as of" no great force, but carry on a good trade with Mom-
bassa for Guzerat calicoes," and " with Sofala for gold." At pre
sent, the commerce is very considerable, and, as Zanzibar will
become the great commercial depot of the eastern coast of Africa, is
destined to increase. The American trade is chiefly from Salem,
Mass. They obtain here gum copal, ivory, and hides, for which
they give American cottons and specie. The American cotton manu
factures have taken precedence of the English, not only at this place
and in many parts of the East, but on the Pacific coast of America.
It is in vain the British endeavour to imitate our fabric by stamping
their Own with American marks, and by other means assimilating itf
for the people say, the strength and wear of the American goods are
so superior, that, lest they be deceived, they will no longer evcR
purchase from Englishmen. Speaking of the competidon with Bri
tish commerce in India, Lieutenant Burnes, in his interesting " Tra
vels into Bokhara," says: " The most formidable rivals are the Amer
ricans, who have only lately entered on this trade. At present, they
land most of their cargoes on the east coast of Africa, from which
they find their way to Muscat and Persia. Hitherto, they have only
sent white goods, and with them they have spread an opinion, which
was repeated fo me by the Armenian merchants of Isfahan, that their
cloths are superior to the British, because the cotton is produced in
their own country and not injured from pressing. It is said to wear
and wash well; and, if this cloth were introduced more extensively,
the merchants assure me that it would have a good sale: very little
of it has been hitherto imported."
The foreign vessels which visited Zanzibar from the 16th of
September, 1832, until the 26th of May, 1834, amounted in all tp
forty-one sail; viz.

Nation.

Number of vessels.

Tonnage.

American,

-

32

-

5497

English,

-

7

-

- 1403

French,

-

1

-

340

Spanish,

-

1

-

319

Total 41 7559
Of the American vessels, four were whale ships; twenty were
from Salem, three from Boston, three from New York, and two are
set down from Majungo (Madagascar) and Cape Delgado.

48 DAUS.
The number of native vessels visiting the island is very conside
rable. They are called ' dads,' (Anglice dows) and do not differ in
the present day, from those described by the early Portuguese voy
agers. They vary in size from five, to three or even four hundred
tons burden. They are extremely sharp at the bow; the deck being
at least one third longer tban the keel. The planks, in the smaller
sizes, are sewed together with coir rope; the seams are caulked with
cocoanut husks and the bottom is paid over with a composition, con
sisting of lime and oil or tallow, called chunam, which possessing the
property of hardening under water, protects the wood from the at
tacks of marine worms. They have a single mast, stepped a little
ahead of the centre and raking forward, upon which is set a square
sail of very coarse material. They have an open poop on the stern;
the rudder is very large, and often secured by ropes only. These ves
sels are met with all over the Indian Ocean, and I am inclined to be
lieve that very Httle improvement has been made in their construc
tion from the period when the Roman and Venetian merchants sup
plied Italy with the spices and gums of the East by the way of the
Red Sea. At that period these daiis carried the products of all Asia,
the silks of Persia, and India, the gems of Ceylon, and the spices of
the Archipelago, up the Red Sea to the port of Berenice, the remains
of which still exist. "Berenice, a town which connects the history
of ancient Egypt with that of the Macedonian and Roman power in
Africa, and at the same time indicates one of the channels throuffh
which commerce was carried on between the remoter parts of Asia
and the nations of Europe. According to Pliny, it was through Be
renice that the principal trade of the Romans with India was con
ducted, by means of caravans, which reached the Nile at Coptos,
not far from the point at which the present shorter road by Cosseir
meets the river. By this medium it is said that a sum not less than
^400,000 was annually remitted by them to their correspondents
in the East, in payment of merchandise, which ultimately sold for a
hundred times as much."*
" It is well known that Berenice was built by Ptolemy Philadel-
phus, a Httle after the establishment of Myos Hormus. Situated in
a lower part of the gulf, it facilitated navigation by enabling mari
ners to take advantage of the regular winds. The inland route be
tween Captos and Berenice, was opened with an army by the same
? " View of Ancient and Modern Egypt," by the Rev. Michael Russel, L. L. D.
Gibson's Decline and FaU of the Roman Empire.

uiuE TO i\Yi;i'. 49
prince, who established stations along it for the protection of travel
lers. This relation which is given by Strabo, agrees with the Adu-
litic preserved in Cosmas, which records the Ethiopian conquests of
Ptolemy Euergetes, who seems to have adopted the commercial plans
of his father, and to have endeavoured to extend them. TheRomansy
when they conquered Egypt, immediately perceived the importance
of these arrangements; Berenice became the centre of their Eastern
trade, and Myos Hormus sunk to a subordinate station."
A party of twelve officers landed early one morning at Metony,
where, according to previous arrangement, we found Captain Hassan,
with three horses and an ample number of donkeys. In a few mi
nutes we mounted, and set off, each of us followed by a young slave,
whose business was to (log the beast whenever occasion required, the
captain of the castle, a tall Abyssinian eunuch, who had been pro
moted by the Sultan for faithful service, dressed in a loose suit of
bright red cloth, acted in the capacity of steward, and guide to the
party. Our seats proved to be rather less than intolerable, and we
mutually laughed at each other's expense. For the first half mile,
our road lay along the beach, and then through cocoanut groves, two
or three miles, sometimes ascending hills and again descending into
little vales. On every hand were highly cultivated spots, and here
and there peeped forth a hut, shaded by the mango, loaded with its
delicious fruit. Our march was quite picturesque, led as it now was
by the Abyssinian, whose long jetty legs were drawn up and closely
embraced his donkey, which he urged on to be at Tayef in time to
receive us, his red mantle streaming behind and flapping in the breeze,
at every spring of the animal. The path was only wide enough for
two to ride abreast; but from an ungovernable propensity of our nags,
we trotted on single file, a runner following each one, beating the
beasts along with good-will. The negroes were all naked, with the
exception of the waist-cloth, and most of them had their heads smooth
ly shaved; they could be only compared to so many monkeys.
A broad road, leading through long vistas of dark green clove trees,
very carefully cultivated, showed that we were now on the grounds
of Tayef, formerly Izimbane, an extensive plantation belonging to
the Sultan of Muscat. We rode on, highly delighted with the view,
and reached the house just in time to escape a shower of rain, and
there found the Abyssinian captain ready to receive us. We alighted
at the outer gate, and crossing a large yard, entered the mansion by
a flight of wooden steps. It is a one story building, about fifty feet
square, having, in front, a pyramidal roofed observatory or veranda,
7

50 CI.OVE PLANTATION.
beneath which, there is a kind of porch. The front door opens upon
a small court, from whicb, on the opposite side, we entered a cheer
less room, extending the whole length of the house, and Hghted by
several large windows. Cut glass chandeliers hung from the raf
tered ceiling; and on shelves, in flat recesses about eight Inches deep,
arched at the top, there was a display of glass, and French China or
naments. At one end of the apartment, were two or three large pine
boxes, upon which lay the mirrors they had contained, partially hid
by cotton cloths. Near the centre was an oblong mahogany table,
supported by an antiquated claw foot; the rest of the furniture con
sisted of Chinese arm-chairs. One half of the floor was laid with
squares of marble, and the other was covered with chunam.
Cocoanuts were opened and offered to us in profusion, and the
stalk of the young cocoanut, divested of its outside, was given us to
eat; its taste resembles that of raw chestnuts.
Being a Httle refreshed after our donkey-jolting, we sallied forth
to view the plantation. The house stands in the centre of a yard
about one hundred and twenty feet square; its walls are of coral,
about seven feet high, and enclose several out-buildings for slaves,
and, near the mansion, a small garden, in which were flourishing, to
gether, the rose-bush and nutmeg tree. As far as the eye could reach
over a beautifully undulated land, there was nothing to be seen but
clove trees of diflerent ages, varying in height from five to twenty
feet. The form of the tree is conical, and the branches grow at nearly
right angles with the trunk, and they begin to shoot a few inches
above the ground. The plantation contains nearly four thousand
trees, and each tree yields, on an average, six pounds of cloves a
year. They are carefully picked by hand, and then dried in the
shade; we saw numbers of slaves standing on ladders, gathering the
fruit, while others were at work clearing the ground of dead leaves.
The whole is in the finest order, presenting a picture of industry, and
admirable neatness and beauty.
It is pretty generally known that the Dutch, for nearly three cen
turies, have been deriving great commercial advantages by their ex
clusive possession of those islands in the Indian Archipelago which
produce the nutmeg and clove trees. In order to appropriate these
spices to themselves, they either destroyed or enslaved those people
who possessed them. They uprooted numberless trees, and even
burned the fruit which they had already prepared, lest, by bringing
a large quantity into the market, the price might be reduced, though
it was in their own handL Such barbarian avarice excited the iii-

HISTORY OF THE CLOVE TRKF.  VALUE OF CLOVES. 51
dignation of many, who longed to foil and afterwards laugh at their
policy. ]
M. Poivre, who had visited many parts of Asia, in the charac
ter of naturalist and philosopher, availing himself of the official sta
tion he held as Governor of Mauritius, or Isle of France, sent to the
least frequented of the Moluccas in search of those precious plants.
Those whom he had commissioned \^¦cre successful in the enterprise,
and, on the 27th of June, 1770, returned to the Isle of France, with
four hundred and fifty nutmeg and seventy clove tree stalks, ten
thousand nutmegs in blossom, or ready to blossom, and a box in
vvhich clove seeds were planted, many of which were above the earth.
Two years afterw-ards, he obtained even a larger supply.
Some of the plants were sent to the Sechelles, to Bourbon and to
Cayenne, but a greater number were retained in the Isle of France.
All those distributed to private individuals perished; and in spite of
the care of skilful botanists, a most unremitting attention and con
siderable expense, only fifty-eight nutmeg and thirty-eight clove
trees were saved. In 1775, two of the latter bore blossoms, which
became fruit in the following year, but it was small, dry, and light.
Little hope of final success was entertained, and it was thought, at
the time, the Dutch had been unnecessarily alarmed.* However, it
appears that the enterprise and industry of the cultivators were re
warded in the end, and they had the pleasure of seeing these spice
trees flourish in their new location.
They vvere introduced info Zanzibar, from Mauritius, in 1818,
and are found to thrive so well that almost every body on the island
is now clearing away the cocoanut to make way for them. The clove
bears in five years from the seed; of course time enough has not yet
elapsed for the value and quantity of Zanzibar cloves to be generally
known; and it may be said, the clove trade is still in the hands of
the Dutch. It has been a monopoly ever since they obtained su
premacy in the Moluccas; in their possessions, the cultivation of the
tree is restricted to the single island of Amboyna.
Cloves are now 55 per cent, dearer than when first brought round
the cape of Good Hope, and are sold to the consumer at an advance
of 1258 per cent, on the first cost of production. The price for Mo
lucca cloves, in the eastern market, is from 28 to $30 per picul of
133lbs,; for those from Mauritius, 20 to $24 per picul. f
A smart shower compelled us to return to the house, rather too
* Establecimientos Ultramarinos, Tom. III. Madrid, 1786.
f Chinese Repository, vol. H. Canton, 1834.

52 THE DEJEUNE  rHRENOLOOV.
soon for the arrangements of our host. Ou entering the saloon, we
found our Abyssinian upon one knee, with a large salver before him,
on the floor, upon which was an entire, baked goat, buried in a
quantity of cold fowls, piled up around it.
They had been brought from town for the occasion. The worthy
captain of the castle was tearing the goat in pieces, with his huge
black hands, and, piling it on plates, which were conveyed to the
table by several assisting slaves. In a few minutes, the arrangements
were complete, and the table was literally heaped up with cold
meats, sweetmeats and millet cakes. We took our seals, and, though
the feast differed in many minor points, the absence of salt being one,
from what we are accustomed, we made an excellent meal, our
appetites being whetted by the early morning ride. We were served
by a host of slaves, and Captain Hassan did the honors of the house
in a most gentlemanly and graceful manner. Our drink consisted of
sirup and water, here called sherbet, and cocoanut water exclu
sively. The dejeune ended about half past twelve o'clock; from that time
till four P. M., we spent in walking, smoking, and talking. Amon"-
other subjects, phrenology was mentioned, and after describing the
science in general terms. Captain Hassan submitted his head to ex
amination, by way of illustration. A few minutes afterwards I found
him in the court with his turban off, feeling his own head; on per
ceiving me he appeared to be somewhat confused, and said, "It is
yery strange— you have lold me truly, but I can discover nothing by
which you have found out these things."
At half past four o'clock p. m., we were again mounted, and at
tended as we had been in the morning. After a ride of six miles,
we reached Metony, at sunset, all of us delighted with our excur
sion. We took leave of Captain Hassan on the beach; and I am
sure we shall long remember the kindness and attention so liberally
extended to us, while at Zanzibar by that gentleman. Nor shall we
soon forget the Abyssinian, who, on bidding us farewell, begged the
captain to say that he would be happy to serve us whenever it might
be in his power.
At Zanzibar the ship was supplied with fresh provisions and every
thing in the greatest abundance, for which Captain Hassan would
receive no remuneration, saying that it was all done by the orders of
His Highness, the Sultan of Muscat.
Postscript. After a passage of sixty-three days, the Enterprise
arrived on the 14th of September, and sailed agailTon the 2Qih.

SAIL FROM ZANZIBAR  PIRATES  PEMBA. 53
During her stay, she met with the same attention and hospitality
which had been extended to the Peacock, and her officers speak of
Captain Hassan in the highest terms of praise.

CHAPTER VI.
VOYAGE FROM ZANZIBAR TO MUSCAT.
October, 1835.
On the morning of the eighth of September, we bade farewell lo
Zanzibar; but the wind was so unfavorable that we anchored, to
wards sunset, close to Tuinbat. We landed, but found only a closely
growing vegetation, and no other inhabitants than pirates — a race of
crabs, so named by sailors, from the circumstance that they dwell in
the shells of other animals, which they expel, and then usurp their
place. Near the remains of a fishing hut, there were great numbers
of them, moving about briskly, and dragging after them their stolen
homes wherever they went. The island is of a coral formation,
thinly covered with soil, which is sufficient, however, to sustain a
growth, even to the water's edge.
Early the following day, we weighed anchor, and, standing to the
northward, soon passed the fertile island of Pemba, on the west
side. Its extent is less than that of Zanzibar, but it is represented
to be far more rich in its agricultural productions. Before sunset,
the land had faded away in distance, and we were saUing gaily on
the bosom of the Indian Ocean.
When we had crossed the equator into the northern hemisphere,
almost every night, the sea presented to us a beautiful spectacle.
Every ripple, every spray dashed from the bows, and every breaking
wave seemed to be on fire. The light thus thrown out from the
waters, was pale, like that from phosphorus in slow combustion; oc
casionally, it illumined our sails, but was not sufficient, at any time,
to read by. This appearance is owing to diminutive masses of ani-

54 PHOSPHORESCENCE OF THE SEA  SHIP ASHORE.
mated matter, resembling jelly; they are transparent as glass, and
when touched, emit light like the fire-fly. The agitation caused
among them by the motion of the sea, the passage of a ship, or fish,
provokes this emission of light. Sometimes our wake was compara
ble to a stream of fire; fish might be followed in their quick motions
through their element, which were traceable by flashes of darting
Hght,°and the wave dashed into spray by our advancing prow fell
down in a dazzHng shower, like diamond sparks.
The night of the twentieth was very pleasant. The sea during
the day was remarkably green, and though we sounded at sunset, we
found no bottom at a hundred fathoms. In the evening a land bird
flew on board, and about ten o'clock, P. M., two small birds, together
with some sea-weed, were caught; but in spite of these indications,
we did not suspect ourselves to be near land; and, placing full confi-
,dence in our meridian observations, which placed us sixty miles
from the shore, we swept along towards our destined port, steering
north half east, with the wind to the southward and westward, with
studding sails set 'low and aloft.' Our sense of security well
nigh proved fatal to us all.
About twenty minutes past two o'clock, on the morning of the
twenty-first, all hands, except the watch on deck, were roused from
sleep by a horrid noise, caused by the ship's bottom grinding and
tearing and leaping on a bed of coral rocks! When she struck, the
ship was sailing at the rate of seven and a half miles the hour, and
her progression was not suddenly and fully arrested, but she ran on
for some minutes after the helm had been ' put up' — the wind was
on the larboard quarter, and consequently off shore. When I
reached the deck, it was starlight, the breeze was fresh, and neither
land nor breakers could be any where seen; by shifting the helm,
the wind had been brought on the starboard side, and the sails no
longer opposed to it, by their surface, were fitfully flapping and
slashing as the wind swept past them. The ship rolled with an un
certain, wavering motion, grinding and tearing the coral as her sides
alternately came against it. The uncertainty of our situation, threat
ened as we were with destruction, the crashing of coral, the dark-
pess of the night, the wallop, wallop, of the sails; the fast succeeding
orders of the officer of the watch, and the piping of the boatswain
and his mates, produced an impression not easily described nor for
gotten. There was an appearance of confusion, but every thing
went on with as much regard to rule as if the catastrophe had been
anticipated. Every one asked, 'Where are we?' but no one knew;

SHIP ASHORE  EIFECT OF HABIT  RA F 1' MADE. 5j
nor was it easy to explain at this time, by what means we had got on
shore. The chronometers, hitherto confided in, were now suspected;
and some called in question the accuracy of the charts. This was
in the first moment of excitement, when we might have supposed
there would have been some manifestations of fear, but there were
none. Just at this moment, we bad a fine example of the effects of
habit. When every body was hurrying on deck, a young gentleman
who had been for a long time a valetudinarian was seen completely
dressed, coining up amongst the last, wilh a cloak hanging over his
arm. On being asked what he was about to do with it, the ther
mometer standing at 80° F., he replied, "Going ashore in the boat,
I shall catch cold from the night air."
As the ship no longer moved forward, but lay floundering from
side to side, all sail was taken in, and an officer was sent to ascertain
in what direction was the deepest water. In the meantime the boats
were hoisted out, and an anchor placed in one of them; and, on the
return of the officer who had been sent to sound, it was carried
about three hundred yards to the southward, where there was suffi
cient depth to float us, and there let go, with the view of heaving off
the ship. As the most speedy way of lightening her, about five
thousand gallons of water were pumped overboard, but it was in
vain. The first gleam of day discovered a low sandy desert, about thiee
miles to the eastward of us, trending north and south, the extreme
points in sight bearing east half south, and west half north. The
water was in spots, of a bright green, from its shallowness, but dark
where it was deeper. The work of lightening the ship was con
tinued. A raft was constructed of spare spars, and loaded with pro
visions, and several tons of shot were thrown overboard. When the
tide began to fail, to prevent the ship from rolling entirely over, a
large spar was placed with one end resting on the bottom and the'
other secured to the side, so as to give effectual support, or shore
her up.
About fen o'clock, A. M., a large canoe, the stern and bows rising
high, propelled by a thin square sail, and manned by four men, ap
proached the ship. We sent an unarmed boat towards her, and "an
indifferent interpreter, a distressed Pole, named Michael, who, ac
cording to his own account, having travelled over land from Poland
to Bombay, spoke passable Arabic, Italian and Dutch, but neither
French nor English. When near enough, he hailed the Arab, who
manifested strong repugnance to communication. W^hile our boat

56 ISLAND OF MAZEIRA  SHIP VISITED BY BEDOOIKS.
pulled rapidly towards him, he carried the tack of his sail forward
and hauled the sheet close aft; then his wild companions stood up,
and we could see their broadswords flashing in the sun as they flou
rished them over their heads, in a manner not to be misunderstood;
our boat, therefore, returned, without opening any amicable inter
course, and the canoe anchored close to the shore.
. Later in the day, an officer was sent towards the beach, to ascer
tain the state of the tide. Immediately on perceiving our boat near
the shore, an Arab sprang from the canoe and ran along the sand.
brandishing his sword, intimating that he woifld offer opposition to
the landing.
At meridian, we found our latitude to be 20° 20' north, and the
lono-itude 58° 52' east. We were now all of opinion that the ship
was on the island of Mazeira, which, according to the charts, lies
about ten miles from the coast of Happy Arabia; it is thirty-five miles
long, and ten or twelve broad; it trends south-west and north-east.
About one o'clock, P. M., four large canoes were seen, approaching
from the northward. They joined company with the one above men
tioned, and then all anchored close to the ship, now very much ca
reened from the falling of the tide. Three of the canoes were large,
with two masts, and might be termed diius. In this fieet, besides
several negro rowers, we counted twenty-nine fighting men, each one
wearing a ' khunger' in his girdle, and there were spears, and broad
swords and matchlocks enough in sight to fill their hands. A spear
or two was stuck up in the after part of each canoe, where there was
a sort of poop, affording a place of shelter from the sun.
After anchoring, several persons left the canoes in which they had
come, and assembled on board another, which was paddled near to
the ship. A tall old man, with a white beard, stood up, and, throw
ing up his naked arms, and nodding his head, hailed us; from his ges
ture, we gathered that he demanded to know whether we would cut his
throat, if he should come on board, and he certainly manifested that
he placed very little confidence in us. After a few minutes' consul
tation, they came alongside, and two of them climbed on deck.
From the lawless and vagrant character of the Bedouin Arabs, of
this part of the coast, as well as from the behaviour of the canoes, we
suspected that they designed an attack, with the object of plunder;
and so soon as they began to anchor, the crew armed themselves with
pikes and cutlasses, and lay concealed, for the most part, behind the
bulwarks. Some few, however, might have been seen grinding their
pikes and cutlasses, and, as they mechanically ran their fingers over

A UEDOUlN WAUIlIOll. 57
the edge to ascertain its keenness, casting their eyes ever and anon
upon the canoes.
When the two Arabs entered at the gangway, the decks were filled
with armed men, whose eyes naturally followed the strangers as they
moved aft, bowing and shaking hands with every individual they met,
but in a manner that illy concealed their own trepidation, arising from
the scene into which they had been so suddenly and so unexpectedly
introduced, nor were the glances of our men calculated to allay any
fears they may have entertained. On reaching the after part of the
quarter deck, where the Commodore and Captain awaited them, they
squatted themselves upon an arm chest, and the old man talked away
at a rapid rate, apparently unconcerned whether understood or not.
Their costume consisted of a large turban, a waist-cloth, hanging
nearly to the knees, and a girdle, in vvhich was stuck the 'khunger.'
The elder of the two vvas very talkative, and had rather a cunning
expression efface, while the younger was more taciturn. His figure
was slight, but every one expressed, in strong terms, admiration for
his beauty. A thick fell of curling black hair, which reached to the
shoulders; keen, dark liazle eyes, regular features, smooth dark skin,
white teeth, and above all the intelligence of his countenance, im
parted to tlie beauty of his face a feminine character, but the jetty
mustache and curling black beard, stamped him as a young warrior.
They partook of sea biscuit and sugar, but owing to the incapacity of
our interpreter, Michael, we obtained from them very little satisfac
tory information. According to his version, they stated that Mazei
ra was ruled by a Sultan, who would forward a letter for us to Mus
cat, if we should send on shore and request him to do so: Or, they
themselves would convey a letter for a thousand dollars. They in
quired how much money wa had on board, and said forty more daus
were coming.
In a few minutes, they left us. The young warrior removed the
khunger from his girdle, and secured it by the folds of his turban to
one side of his head, and then lowering himself by a rope down the
ship's side, dropped into the sea and swam gracefully to his ca
noe, followed by his companion. Soon afterwards, tbey all weighed
anchor and stood away to the southward.
Towards sunset, when die tide had risen, efforts were again made
to heave off the ship, but without even affording us a hope of success.
Our situation was every hour becoming very critical. We were satis
fied, that the Bedouins had not paid us their final visit, but were inclined

58 PROSPECTS OF SHIPWRECK  CUTTER SENT TO MUSCAT.
to believe they would soon appear in greater numbers, to attack the
ship, and though vve vvere more than a match for them, at this mo
ment, when the ship was on an even keel and the crew not very much
fatigued, in the course of a very few days the case would be different.
The sea was so smooth, we did not apprehend that the ship would
soon go in pieces, nor did we think there was any danger of a gale at
this season; but our supply of water was inadequate to our necessi
ties for more than a few days, and incessant labor must soon exhaust
the forces of the crew. We might be under the necessity of land
ing, as our boats were not sufficiently numerous to carry us all to
Muscat, and in that case, we had Httle to anticipate from the hospi
tality of the Bedouins, for
" The good old rule sufficeth them;
They shall take who have the power;
They shall keep who can."
The prospect of getting fhe ship afloat was distant, and as the
surest means of obtaining relief, the second cutter was equipped,
with a crew of six picked men, and despatched early the next morn
ing, to Muscat, under the command of Passed Midshipman, William
Rogers Taylor. Thinking that his services would be more valuable
in Muscat, with the Sultan, than they could be on board, Mr. Ro
berts volunteered, and accompanied Mr. Taylor, bearing with him the
treaty. This expedition was by no means without peril; for, although
little was feared from sailing the ocean in an open boat, at this sea
son, there was much to be dieaded from the Arab pirates, who have
made this section of the coast their home, from time immemorial.
But the danger which awaited those who remained on board, and
those who embarked for Muscat was probably equal; and, making it
purely a question of safety whether to go or stay, would have re
quired, at that time, considerable deliberation.
On Tuesday morning, the 22d, soon after the departure of the
second cutter, the work of lightening was continued, and we saw,
with feelings of regret, one half of our guns cast into the sea. The
upper spars and sails were sent down from aloft, and on renewing our
efforts to heave, at the top of the tide, we discovered, with pleasure,
that the ship moved. This infused new life into all hands. The
men broke forth in a song and chorus, to which they kept time as
they marched round the capstan, or hauled the hawser in by hand.

SKIRMISH WITII THE BEDOUINS. 59
" Heave, and she must go," sang one, as a leader, in a high key,
and all the men answered, in chorus,
" Ho! cheerly."
" Heave, and she will go,"
"Ho! cheerly."
When she moved more easily, those at the capstan sang, to the
tune of " The Highland Laddie,"
" I wish I were in New York town.
Bonny Laddie, Highland Laddie," &c.
At two o'clock, p. M., w( anchored in three and a half fathoms
water, yet the distance was so great to where it would be safe to
make sail, we were by no means sure of getting off, for incessant la
bor was wearing out the crew, and it was with difficulty the anchors
were made to hold.
About nine o'clock in the morning, two of the canoes which had
visited us the day before, anchored close to the ship, and the Bedouins
on board of them sat, shaded by their mantles, silently watching our
motions. They held up to us a piece of plank; whether it belonged
to our own or some other unfortunate vessel we did not know. At
the end of an hour they left us, and anchored close to our raft, where
they were joined by a third canoe. When we anchored, the raft was
half a mile directly astern; and in a little while we discovered them
robbing it of Hght spars, and they probably would have taken off
other things, had they not been alarmed by the discharge of several
muskets. In an instant the launch was manned by volunteers, and
shoved off, under the command of Lieutenant Godon, who was ac
companied by Mr. Jacob Caldwell, Second Master, and Passed Mid
shipman B. S. B. Darlington. The canoes hauled close upon a wind,
and stood to the southward and westward, while the launch pulled
rapidly in a direction to head them off. It was some time before the
canoes came within range of our guns; and when they did, our own
boat was somewhat in the way; nevertheless, a gun was fired, and a
shot dropped very near to them, but without any other effect than to
induce them to take on board the spars which they had in tow. Owing
to the wind being adverse, the launch did not get nearer than within
long musket shot; but from this distance she fired several volleys.
In all, four guns vvere fired from the ship, but fell short of their ob
ject; and we saw the savages triumphantly bearing off their prize,
without our being able to prevent it.
In the afternoon, a kcdge anchor was carried out, but, the wind

60 ATTEMPT TO CUT OFF THE BOATS.
being fresh, we had the misfortune to break, or part the hawser, and
were obliged to let go both anchors. This accident caused us to
drift into more shallow water; and it was dispiriting, because it ren
dered a great part of the day's toil to be repeated. In the night,
when the tide, which flowed and ebbed about six feet, fell, the ship
struck very heavily, and we found her leaking at the rate of a foot
an hour. Although her whole frame trembled under these shocks,
the seamen were so completely wearied, and overcome by sleep,
"chief nourisher of life's course," that it was with great difficulty
they could be roused, when it became necessary to " shore up " the
ship. Nor were the slumbers of the officers less profound. Though
they were fully aware of the peril which surrounded us, the mind
was but little occupied by apprehension; on the contrary, three offi
cers spent an hour that evening in the ward room, discussing the
probabilities of the next presidential election, and other subjects not
less foreign to our situation. Even when our chances were men
tioned, the topic frequently became ridiculous, by some one picturing
a messmate, in the capacity of a slave to a Bedouin chief, driving
his camels over the desert, or carrying water, or performing menial
services, in which case the figurante was always represented as
giving constant offence by his awkwardness. And, indeed, there
would have been more truth than poetry in these improvaticinations,
had we been cast on shore, for slavery, until redeemed, was the
lightest evil we should have met with.
The next morning, (the twenty-third,) while busied in getting the
kedge, which bad been lost the evening before, five large canoes
made their appearance from the southward, and manoevoured in such
a manner, as to leave no doubt, that they intended to cut off the
boats employed; and the officer, commanding them, at the instance
of the men, sent to the ship for arms. However, three shot, well
directed from the ship, caused the canoes to haul their wind, and we
saw them pass behind the low land, which proved to be a small
island of sand. Had the Arabs succeeded in their bold attempt, we
should have been deprived, in a great degree, of the means of saving
the ship, and, in the event of her going into pieces, of saving our
own lives.
Having laid out a kedge well to windward, the shore being to
leeward, and hoisted up the topsail yards, with the sails furied upon
them, we hove up both anchors; finding one of them broken and use
less, it was thrown away. We commenced hauling in the hawser,
ivhich was watched with intense anxiety; for had it broken, nur

SHIP AFLOAT  CAUSE OF GFTTINO ASHORE. 61
hopes would have been almost at an end. Fortunately it held. The
ship was now well oft" the shore, but the depth of water was only
three and a quarter fathoms. The topsails were let fall, and spread
with great celerity; at the same instant the " back rope" of the
kedee was cut, and we were once more, under the influence of our
canvass. At six o'clock we had beat off shore ten or twelve miles,
and anchored in six fathoms water, with the island of Mazeira in
sight, clearly showing us, that we were between it and the main.
During the night, we dragged our anchors, but brought up again on
giving more cable. Early on the twenty-fourth, we got underway,
and beat out of the gulf of Mazeira. At sunset, the southern ex
tremity of the island was astern, and a last cast of the lead gave us
thirty fathoms, in an open sea, after having been grinding the coral
for fifty-six hours!
It is due both to officers and men — and it illustrates the great ad
vantage of discipline — to state, that from the time of getting on shore
until getting off, there was not the slightest irregularity in the me
thod of carrying on the duties of the ship, although, in a time of so
much excitement, the reverse might have been expected. The orders
were given in the usual manner, and obeyed with cheerful alacrity
by the men, although nearly worn down by continued and severe
toil. To this circumstance, and to the active and well directed
efforts of the crew, we are alone indebted for our escape from total
shipwreck. The island of Mazeira, is a pile of dark, arid rocks, rising, per
haps, five or six hundred feet above the level of the sea, without a
single spot of verdure upon it. The sand lay in drifted wreaths in
the gorges, imparting to it a most desolate and inhospitable appear
ance. The following letter will explain the cause of our misfortune, and
may serve to protect others, when cruising in this region.
"I certify that during the period I have navigated the Arabian
coast, and been employed in the trigonometrical survey of the same,
now executing by order of the Bombay government, that I have
ever found it necessary to be careful to take nocturnal as well as
diurnal observations, as frequent, as possible, owing to the rapidity
and fickleness of the currents, which, in some parts, I have found
running at the rate of three and four knots an hour, and I have
known the Palinurus set between forty and fifty miles dead in shore,
in a dead «alm, during the night.

G2 THE SULTANE  ARRIVAL AT MUSCAT.
"It is owing to such currents, thati conceive the United Slates ship of
war Peacock run aground, as have manyBritish ships in previous years,
on and near the same spot; when at the changes of the monsoons, and
sometimes at the full and change, you have such thick weather, as to
prevent the necessary observations being taken with accuracy and
the navigator standing on with confidence as to his position, and with
no land in sight, finds himself to his sorrow, often wrong, owing to
a deceitful and imperceptible current, which has set him with rapi
dity upon it. The position of Mazeira Island, is laid down by
Owen many miles too much to the westward.
Given under ray hand this 10th day of November, 1835.
S. B. Haines.
Commander of the
Honourable East India Company's )
' surveying brig Palinurus. )
To sailing master, John Weems, U. S. Navy."
After doubling Cape Ras al Had, we encountered calms. On the
morning of the 28th, we met the " Sultane," a small Arab sloop of
war, bound to our relief, with Mr. Taylor and the boat's crew on
board. Captain Hammet bin Soliman of the Sultane, with a pilot
who spoke English, and two servants, came on board of the Peacock,
bringing with them presents of dates, fruit, zebus and goats.
It was nearly calm all day, and we did not enter the cove of Mus
cat until the afternoon of the twenty-ninth. Early that day we had
the pleasure of receiving Mr. Roberts on board, accompanied by
Captain Seid bin Calfaun, with whom he put off from shore so soon
as the Peacock hove in sight. Just before reaching the anchorage,
we were welcomed into port, by salutes from all the forts and ships
of war in the harbor, vvhich were properly acknowledged on our
part. When the second cutter left the ship, on the morning of the
twenty-second, in order to avoid meeting with piratical daus, she
stood seaward, and to the surprise of every one on board, after a
few hours, descried the island of Mazeira. They altered their course,
and stood out of the gulf of Mazeira, by the southern end of the
island. They were chased that day upwards of five hours by a pi
ratical dau, and only escaped by the coming on of night. As the sun
sank, the wind and sea rose so high that the boat was two or three
times in imminent danger of being filled witb water. During the

cruise of the cui-rER — kindness of the sultan. 63
day, the sun was intensely hot, and, blistered the skin wherever it
was exposed; and at night, the dews were very heavy. Combined
with these annoyances, were the narrow limits of the boat, which
prevented them almost from changing their position, or lying down
tc. sleep, and the provisions which they carried, got wet with salt
water. On the night of the twenty-fifth, they anchored in a small bay, a
Httle to the southward of Muscat, that they might not pass their port,
and the next morning, after a harassing voyage, of one hundred and
one hours, or four days and five hours, reached their destination,
hungry, and almost exhausted by fatigue and watching. It is worthy
of remark, that only one of the party suffered any illness in conse
quence of this exposure; Mr. Taylor experienced a slight indispo
sition of two or three days, of a nervous character.
Immediately after their arrival, Mr. Roberts repaired to the house
of Captain Seid bin Calfaun, the Sultan's interpreter and translator
of English, and forthwith despatched him to inform the Sultan of the
perilous situation of the Peacock, and request him to send to her as
sistance a vessel with a supply of water, &c. As soon as the sad tale
was heard, " His Highness " ordered Captain Hammet to have the
Sultane, at that moment, unrigged, or, as the nautical phrase is,
"stripped to a girtline," equipped, and supplied plentifully witb
water and provisions, and to sail the next day for Mazeira. An or
der was despatched to the governor of Zoar, a large town near Ras
al Had, and about one hundred miles to the southward of Muscat,
to proceed himself, with four daus and three hundred men, for the
protection of the crew and property of the Peacock, until the Sultane
should arrive; and, to prevent any mistake, the governor of Zoar
was furnished with an American flag, which he was to display on
approaching the ship, and with a letter from Mr. Roberts to the
Commodore, explaining the object of this little squadron. An armed
dau was ordered to be prepared, with a further supply of provisions
and water, to sail in two days; and couriers, with armed escorts,
were sent to the governor of Mazeira, and to the principal Bedouin
chiefs on the main, declaring that " His Highness " would hold them
responsible with their heads for the loss of a single life belonging to
the Peacock's crew, or for any property that should be stolen by any
individual of their several tribes. A troop of three hundred and flfty
Bedouin cavalry, on duty without the walls of the city, were ordered
to proceed to the coast, to protect any of our crew who might be

64 THE sultan's munificent treatment OE MR. ROHERTS.
forced to land, and to escort them to Muscat. Within an hour and
a half the couriers had departed; in less than that time, the Bedouins
bestrode their Arab steeds and were on the road; and the sloop of
war, furnished with every necessary, sailed the next afternoon,
having on board the cutter's crew and Mr. Taylor, to whom "His
Highness " had given her in temporary command.
On the same afternoon, Mr. Roberts had an audience with the
Sultan. " His Highness " received him in the divan, which fronts
the harbor, in a most cordial and friendly manner, and evinced much
sympathy in our misfortune and sufferings. Every sort of aid which
could be devised was proffered and insisted on; not only by "His
Highness," but also by his two sons; by the Ouali, or governor of
Muscat, and by the whole divan, or council, which was present; to
the members of which Mr. Roberts had been personally known on
bis former visit. The Sultan then pointed out, from his chair, a
sloop of war, which, he said, in case of the total loss of the Peacock,
should carry her officers and crew to the United States; and, in or
der that the business of the embassy might not be delayed, another
sloop of war, or frigate, was offered, to carry the envoy wherever it
were necessary, and, after the conclusion of his mission, to convey
him to the United States. A house, with every necessary appliance,
was ordered to be prepared for the accommodation of Mr. Roberts;
or the cabin of a frigate in the harbor, as he might prefer it, in con
sequence of the very oppressive heat of the city, both of which were
respectfully declined, untU the fate of the Peacock should be ascer
tained. On the 28th, " His Highness " visited Mr. Roberts, at the house
of Captain Calfaun, which was considered by the Arabs the highest
honor the Sultan could confer on any individual. As another mark
of " His Highness' " favor, the table of Mr. Roberts was supplied
from the palace, with the best the city afforded.
Though not in chronological order, I will state, at this time, ano
ther instance of the munificent kindness of this Arab prince. When
the guns were thrown overboard, a buoy was attached to eacb, with
a view to recovering them; but when we anchored in six fathoms
water, the guns were at least ten miles from us; and our boats were
not sufficient to weigh them very readily, particulariy in the face of
a swarm of pirates, from whom we could expect little forbearance,
and therefore they were abandoned. The Sultan, however, had de
cided that we should not lose them. He had them weighed, and sent

THE SULTAH'S LETTER. t)5
them to us at Bombay, where they were received, with the following
letter, brought by a captain in the navy, after we had obtained others,
from the stores of the Honorable East India Company.
Muscat, November Qth, 1835.
From Syed Syeed bin Sultan,
To Commodore E. P. Kennedy.
Sir,
My much esteemed friend, — I hope the Almighty God will pre
serve you, and keep you in good health and prosperity.
I send you this letter to inquire after your health, prosperity, and
so forth.
The vessel which we sent to the spot where the United States ship
Peacock grounded, has returned this day, and brought eleven guns
and ten broken spars. The anchors and chain cables, as soon as we
can get them, we shall send to you.
We have shipped on board of the grab called the Lord Castle-
reigh, eleven guns, to be delivered to you; the freight has been paid
here by me; please to receive them. We deem it unnecessary to
send the spars, as they are of no use.
Written by me. His Gracious Highness' most loyal subject,
Seid bin Calfaun.
By order of His Highness, Syed Syeed bin Sultan.

The following letter from Commodore Kennedy was written to
His Highness, in reply, to express our grateful sense of his kindness.

To his Highness, Syed Syeed bin Sultan,
Sultan of Muscat.
May it please your Highness; — I have the honor to acknowledge
the receipt, by the Bagelah, of the eleven lost guns of the Peacock,
owing to the untiring and indefatigable exertions of your Highness.
I shall not fail to make known to my government, the heavy debt
of gratitude previously incurred to your Highness, for the truly
friendly and prompt measures which were adopted, when it was
made known by Mr. Roberts that the Peacock was stranded, and in
great distress, near the island of Mazeira.
9

66 COMMODORE KENNEDY'S LETTER TO THE SULTAN.
My country can never forget the numerous acts of kindness re
ceived at your Highness' hands, and which were marked by a prompt
ness which deserves the just admiration of the vrorld.
Your Highness will please accept the homage, respect, and grati
tude which every officer and man on board the Peacock personally
feels for your Highness' never-ending exertions in rendering so many
prompt, and more than friendly, acts, for our benefit; and no one
can more sensibly feel it than the undersigned, who has the honor to
subscribe himself, with the highest considerations of esteem, respect,
and gratitude. Your Highness' most obedient,
and humble servant,
Edmund P. Kennedy,
Commanding the naval forces of
the U. S. on the East India
and Asiatic station.
U. S. Flag Ship Peacock, Bombay Harbor, Dec. \st, 1835.
P. S. Your Highness' letter, by the Bagelah, which brought the
guns, has been received; in which your Highness signifies your inten
tion of recovering, if possible, the chain cables left by the Peacock
at Mazeira. I entreat your Highness, that if, by your Highness'
continued generous exertions, they should be found, you will not
take the trouble to send them to Bombay, as I will have sailed hence
before they can arrive; but I beg that your Highness will cause them
to be put to use in any manner in which they may be serviceable,
until they shall be called for. Respectfully,
E. P. K.

appearance of MUSCAT  CLIMATE. 67

CHAPTER vn.
SKETCHES IN THE DOMINIONS OF THE SULTAN OF MUSCAT.
October, 1835.
As we drew near to Muscat, sailing close to the high rocky shore,
the first indication of the place which presented itself to view, was
a strong castle with towers, perched on one of the heights. We en
tered the cove, which is small and shut in by rocks of granite, from
one to three hundred feet high, running in ridges, composed of nume
rous conical peaks, the whole resembling those diagrams, which, in
books of geography, serve to represent the comparative elevations of
the different mountains of the earth. These peaks are every where
crowned with small castles, or watch towers, which not only com
mand the harbor, but the city itself, which is almost hidden from the
anchorage, in a sort of rocky nook, the Sultan's palace, a plain three
story mansion, and the custom house being the only buildings visible
from the shipping. The dark side of the rugged granite is unrelieved
by a single spot of green, all is barren, and offers a thousand op
posing surfaces and points, which, by reflecting the sun's rays, make
this one of the hottest places in the world. In the months of January
and February, the thermometer ranges at about 50° F., but in July
and August, it fluctuates between 90° and 115°. When we com
plained of the heat, (91° F.) they told us, they considered it cool wea
ther; and, indeed, most of the Arab gentlemen wore upper garments
of broad cloth.
In June, 1821, when the cholera carried off 10,000 of the Sultan's
subjects, the heat was almost insupportable, and the wind was like
a flame of fire. At midnight, the thermometer stood at 104°. " On
the forecastle of the Kent, the heat was so intense, that the tube of
a thermometer, graduated only to 122°, was completely filled by the
expansion of the mercury," and we may therefore, conclude, as Ma-

68 COVE OF MUSCAT.
jor Downing certainly would have done, that had the thermometer
been longer, it would have been hotter.*
The harbor is formed by a small island, consisting of a huge mass
of granite two hundred feet high, situated so near the main as to only
allow the passage of small vessels. The Peacock was anchored in
front of the opening thus formed, for the sake of the sea breeze, which
usually sets through it into the cove.
In the harbor were several Arabian ships of war, and numerous
merchant daus, which are actively engaged in trade between this port,
and various parts of the Persian gulf and the Indian ocean. The first
view is wildly picturesque; the numerous forts remind us of the suc
cess which crowned the Portuguese arms in the East, under Albu
querque and his immediate successors, and the numerous canoes ply
ing between the shipping and the shore, tell us that Muscat is still
a place of active commerce. Canoes were seen, propelled by two
Arabs, one in the bow and the other at the stern, with a dozen pas
sengers packed in the bottom, one in front of another, and all facing
the same way, their turbaned heads and shoulders appearing between
the gunwale and a long narrow awning. Towards evening, the fish
ermen were often seen returning from their day's toil to the cove;
while one man steered the canoe, another stood erect in the bow, hold
ing his outstretched turban between his feet and hands, thus convert
ing it into a bellying sail, and the light bark fied briskly before the
wind. When the moon rose, the scene wore a romantic aspect. The
sentinels, at the watch towers and at the castle turrets, cried the
"all's well" to each other, every half hour; and, occasionally, the
voices of boatmen broke the silence of night, singing in cadence to
tlie dip of the oar.
We had scarcely anchored before our decks were crowded with
visiters; some came through motives of curiosity; others for the sake
of profit, by supplying our necessities; but many came only to con
gratulate us on our narrow escape from shipwreck, assuring us at the
same time that of a great number of vessels which had been stranded
at Mazeira, the Peacock was the only one they had known to get
off. At four o'clock, P. M,, the day after our arrival, all those officers
whose duty permitted them to leave the ship, accompanied Commo
dore Kennedy and Mr. Roberts, to visit the Sultan. We landed at
the.embouchement of a short canal which empties into the cove, a few
* Asiatic Journal, for 1823.

AUDIENCE WITH THE SULTAN. 69
hundred yards to the right of the palace, at the foot of a lofty rock,
crowned by a fort. The landing place was thronged with Arabs, to
see the novel sight of twenty American officers, in full health, and
high spirits, contrasting strangely with their own tawny, meager looks.
We walked to the house of Captain Calfaun, and thence proceeding
through the narrow crowded streets, entered the palace from the ba
zaar. We passed through a small open court, and were received by
a well-dressed guard of about twenty Sepoys, who presented arms as
the Commodore passed them. The Ouidi, or governor of Muscat,
who was at this point, now conducted us out to the veranda, or di
van, where we were met by the Sultan, and his eldest and third sons.
As Captain Calfaun named us in order, he shook each one by the
hand, and motioned us to a seat. We remained standing, in two
lines, on opposite sides of the divan, until His Highness reached his
chair, at the upper end of the apartment. Captain Calfaun stood on
the Sultan's left, during the whole interview. The princes, and other
Arabians present, left their sandals at the threshold, and walked to
their respective places barefoot.
The divan, which, overlooking the sea, has the advantage of being
airy, is about fifteen feet wide, and thirty long. It was furnished
wilh fine Persian rugs and Chinese chairs. Here His Highness usu
ally administers justice, and receives foreign and state visiters.
The Sultan vvore a high turban of cotton, finely checked, blue and
white, and a black cloth mantle, with large straight sleeves, bound
round the neck with a slender silk cord, of red and white, which ter
minated in tassels. Beneath the mantle were a white tunic and gir
dle. In his hand he carried a large sabre, in a black scabbard, mount
ed in gold; and the only ornament was a large ruby, set in silver,
which he wore on the Httle finger of the left hand. His feet and less
were bare, havina; left his sandals at the threshold. This costume set
off his fine figure and manly countenance. Compared with the Arabs
generally, his head, and indeed his whole person, are remarkably
large. He has a large mouth, filled with fine teeth; he wears his
white mustache clipped close, which runs in a line to join his whis
kers, which are gray, but bis beard is perfectly black. He is about
fifty years of age, and his manners are polished and graceful.
He congratulated us on our escape from shipwreck, and asked how
much the ship leaked, and inquired for several officers who were
in the Peacock on her first visit. He offered to supply us with guns
and cables from his own ships, to replace those we had lost. Speak
ing of the Bedouin Arabs, he remarked, that they were a lawless and

70 THE sultan's STUD  POSITION OF MUSCAT.
warlike people, without possessions, the richest of them owning per
haps a date tree or two, who wandered over the country bearing
their tents with them. They are naturally robbers, and are very
expert in the use of arms. A Bedouin, with no other weapon than a
sword, wUl bury himself up to the armpits in the ground, and, under
these very disadvantageous circumstances, keep off as many men,
armed with spears, as may choose to attack him in front.
He inquired about the state of parties in France, and observed
that the French would never have a king equal to Napoleon.
He told-us that his third son was to be married on the following
Friday, and said that Arab boys generally married between the age
of tvifelve and fifteen years, and he thought it best they should marry
young._ Coffee was served, in small China cups, which held less than a
wine-glassfull; it was thick, very strong and fragrant, and sweetened
with sugar candy. The servants were dressed in white, with tur
bans like that of the Sultan, except they were not so high, and in
their girdles, which were of cloth of gold, they wore khungers
with richly ornamented hilts. After coffee, sherbet was handed in
finely cut glass goblets.
The audience lasted about fifteen minutes. On taking leave. His
Highness said he would be happy to render any assistance to the
ship, to any individual on board, and, indeed, to any individual be
longing to the United States.
Before returning on board, we visited the Sultan's stud. We saw
twenty-nine horses, worth from one to two thousand dollars each;
they were tethered on a short strip of beach, between high rocks, and
overlooked by a castle in which the treasures of His Highness are
said to be kept. Only two of these animals were remarkable for
beauty; the rest were not worthy of particular notice. The great
attention paid by the Arabs to the breed and genealogy of their
borses, is too well known to require remark.
The city of Muscat is situated in 23° 45' north latitude, and 58°
41' east longitude. It Hes embosomed amongst rocks, and is se
cured on all sides by substantial walls, but without ditches. Its
population is not less than twenty thousand, including Arabs, Ban
yans, and a few Persian merchants, but there is neither a European
or Christian resident in the place. It is now the capital of the pro
vince of Aman or Oman, which name Moore has rendered familiar
to most English ears; but I doubt whether a visit to this place would
mt have stifled the inspiration of the poet and deprived the world of

THB BAZAAR  BARBERS. 71
the splendid tale of Laila Rookh. Rostak was formerly the capital,
and is now spoken of by the Arabs in terms of high praise.
In the year 1508 the Portuguese, under the celebrated Albu
querque, made themselves masters of Muscat, and retained posses
sion of it until 1650, when they were forcibly ejected by the Arabs.
While in the possession of the Portuguese, they built most of the nu
merous forts and watch towers, which we now see, to secure them
selves against the frequent attacks made by neighboring princes to
dislodge them. Two buildings were pointed out to us which had
been Portuguese churches: one of them was used as a storehouse, and
the other was for many years the residence of the governor.
The city is irregularly laid out, and, with two or three striking
exceptions, the houses are but mean edifices. They all have flat
roofs. The streets are narrow, and are, at all times, thronged with
people, who are seldom seen without a khunger in the girdle, or a
two-edged sword, suspended from the left shoulder, and a round
shield, of rhinoceros hide at the back. But arms seem to be worn as
much for ornament as use, and we must not infer from this fashion
that bloody brawls are common. The bazaar, which includes the
greater part of the town, consists of narrow filthy lanes, having stalls
of earth raised above the common foot-way, filled witb a great
variety of wares. Mats are stretched over the streets or lanes from
the tops of the houses, to shelter the merchants and their goods from
sun or rain. At the stalls are displayed baskets of grain, parched
corn, pepper, senna leaves, cloves, and dried rose buds; coarse cot
ton, glass beads, glass bracelets, bangles and sticks or pencils of
antimony, used for shading ladies' eyelids; to say nothing of great
piles of ' holwah,' and other sweetmeats, all of which variety is some
times found in the shop of one merchant. Here sit the Banyans
amidst their wares, distinguished by their high red turbans, sleek
skins and demure countenances, selling to the lordly Arab of the
desert, who deports himself towards them like a monarch towards
his slaves. At this time, great numbers of Bedouins were in town,
sauntering about with matchlocks over their shoulders, their flashing
dark eyes arrested by every thing that appeared worthy of atten
tion. These Bedouins, in spite of their dark skins, and darker cha
racters, are the handsomest race of men I have ever seen.
Just at the entrance of the bazaar is a low shed, occupied by bar
bers. It is curious to witness them shaving, without lather of any
kind, the heads submitted to their tonsure; or, with tweezers, dex
terously plucking out the straggling hairs which mar the outline of
the beard or mustache.

72 sailor's ACCOUNT OF MUSCAT — LADIEs' COSTUME.
Blind beggars are numerous in the streets, and, in spite of the re
commendation in the Koran to give alms, and the declaration which
Mohammed is said to have made, " that whoever pays not his legal
contribution of alms duly, shall have a serpent twisted about his
neck at the resurrection,"* they receive but little, and are left in a
most pitiable condition. They sit on the ground, with a hand ex
tended, while the other is pressed across the breast, beseeching cha
rity, in most lugubrious tones. I asked a sailor, who belonged to
the boat which was sent from Mazeira to Muscat, what sort of a
place the city was. " I hardly know, sir," he replied; " it is all
what they call a bazaar, and a dirty hole it is; and the people seem
to be dying like rotten sheep."
" What seems to be the matter?"
"I don't know; but they are sitting about in the dirt, and groan
ing as if they were in great pain."
"What did you think was the cause pf their groaning?"
" I don't know; but they looked as if they were starving to death."
And I thought, when I encountered the beggars. Jack's description
was very well borne out by the facts.
Females are occasionally seen in the streets, but always carefully
concealed in fiowing robes, and their faces, in obedience to the pre
cepts of the Koran, are hid by veils, or rather dominos, which are
often secured behind the head by a silver chain. Their costume
consists of a sort of silk gauze, generally yellow, made in the form
ofa loose robe, worn over pantalettes, which set close at the ankles,
which are ornamented, as among Jewish females of old, with ban
gles of silver, or metal resembling it. The feet are cased in stock
ings and slippers of some gay color, or they are bare, with a number
of rings on the toes. The breast is protected by a spencer or jacket,
with short sleeves, which are tastefully bespangled and tinselled.
The silk robe is worn over the head, after the fashion of the man
tilla in Spain.
Ladies visit a good deal amongst themselves, but no males, except
certain relatives,t are admitted into their society. " Women," said
an Arab gentleman to me one evening; " Women spend their whole
time in perfuming, dressing, and decorating themselves. They are
* Sale's Koran.
¦j- The Koran commands women not to show their charms to any persons, ex
cept "to their husbands, or their fathers, or their husband's fathers, or their
sons, or their husband's sons, or their brothers, or their brother's sons, or their
women, or tlieir captives, which theu- right hands shall possess, or unto such

CHARACTER OF ARABIAN LADIES  MAllRIAGE. 73
fond of dress, and are generally very expensive creatures. A gen
tleman's wife must have at least four Cashmere shawls, a green, a
blue, a red, and a white; then she must have a ruby or a diamond ring
for every toe, as well as for every finger, and few wives have not
from two to seven thousand dollars' worth of jewelry to wear on par
ticular occasions. Then they are so jealous, there is no living. Our
law allows us four wives, and as many concubines as one pleases;
and it is necessary to have some as servants to your wife. For that
reason, every gentleman has three or four Circassian or Abyssinian
slaves, who soon become as jealous as the wife herself, if they do not
enjoy a reasonable share of their master's attention, which they
usually seek with great assiduity, because if they have issue, they are
free, for no man is willing that his offspring should be considered
slaves, which they must be, if the mother remain in a state of bond
age. Indeed, in my own house, they sometimes get into such quar
rels, that I am obliged to absent myself for days from the whole of
them." "When a man marries," continued the gentleman, "he does not
see his destined bride until after the marriage ceremony has been
performed; but, to gain some knowledge of the lady, he depends
upon the report of some old woman, generally a servant in his family,
whom he sends to make her observations. In this way, he gets a
pretty good description of the lady's personal charms, and he must
trust to luck for the rest. If satisfied with the report, he then makes
proposals, through a priest, who asks the lady whether she is willing
to take such an individual for a husband, and on gaining her consent,
the father is informed of it, but he, as well as all her male relations,
are careful to absent themselves at the time of the wedding."
Though so carefully secluded, intrigue and faithleFsness amongst
Women is very rare, because the disgrace attached to the crime, ex
tends not only to her immediate family, but also to the whole tribe
to which she may belong. Another check is that the husband can
put away his vvife, at any moment, by saying simply, I " divorce you;"
-=-' and terrible are these words in the ears of a woman; ' — after
which they are no longer man and vvife; he gives her the property
men as attend them, and have no need of women,, or unto children, who distin
guish not the nakedness of women.'' " Uncles not being here particularly men
tioned, it is a doubt whether they may be permitted to see their nieces. Some
think they are included under the appellation of brothers; but others are of
opinion they are not comprised in this exception; and give this reason for it, viz:
lest they should describe the persons of their niecesto their sons,"-^ Sale's Koran,-
10

74 CAFFES  WELLS.
she may claim as her own, and sends her back to her father's house.
After that, he cannot again see her face, unless the marriage cere
mony be again performed. In this way, a man may separate from
his wife three times, but cannot marry her a fourth time, until after
she has been the wife of another. " Ye may divorce your wives
twice; and then either retain them with humanity, or dismiss them
with kindness." " But if the husband divorce her a third time, she
shall not be lawful for him again, until she marry another husband."*
Beyond the city gates, there is a very considerable population,
living in huts, constructed of reeds and mats. Here, too, we found
two or three cages of rude character. They may be compared to
cages; the walls are made of stout reeds, or split bamboo, lashed to
gether crosswise, and the roofs are thatched with palm leaves. The
furniture and fixtures consist of wooden forms for the guests to
lounge upon, while they smoke a sort of pipe, called a hubble-bubble,
in which the smoke is drawn through water, and a stone counter,
behind which the host is always seen in attendance, either making or
dispensing coffee which is served very hot, in small bowls, without
eream or sugar.
In this suburb there are a few scanty gardens, whose existence
depends upon irrigation from wells, which is effected with very con
siderable labor. A derick, or shears, composed of three pieces of
timber, is erected over the well; at the top is a pulley or block, and
to one end of the rope, leading through it, is attached a leathern bag,
and the other is secured to a yoke on the neck of an ox. To enable
the animal to apply his force more effectually, an inclined plain is
cut from the top of the well, descending sufficiently deep into the
earth to ensure that the descent of the ox will raise the leathern bag
to the top of the well; on reaching that point, it is so contrived that
the bag empties itself into a sort of reservoir, whence it is distributed
* Sale's Koran,
" The Mahommetan who has thrice sworn to divorce his wife, religion pun
ishes by hot allowing him to take her again till she has shared the bed of anotlier
man. The faulty person, who is thus unpleasantly circumstanced, endeavours to
elude the law. He chooses a friend on whose discretion he can reckon; shuts
him up with his wife in presence of witnesses, and tremblingly awaits the result.
The trial is a dangerous one. If, when he quits the room, the obliging friend
declares that he divorces her, the first husband has a right to resume her; but
if, having forgotten friendship in the arms of love, he should say that he ac
knowledges her as his wife, he takes her away with him, and the marriage is
Y^lid." — Savary in Sale's Koran,

MOUTRAH  FISH  HOLWAH. 75
by conduits. A slave attends to drive the animal up hill again, to
the top of the well, and the bag descends and is filled; this toil is
continued all day lung.
The wells about Muscat were originally dug at the expense of in
dividuals, and by them bequeathed to the public. The Sultan sup
plies an ox and a slave for each, and those who use the water pay a
tax in grain. Water supplied to ships is carried from the well to
the boats in skins, which are there emptied into the casks.

CHAPTER VIII.

SKETCHES IN THE DOMINIONS OF THE SULTAN OF MUSCAT.
Oduher, 1835.
Not far from Muscat, to the northward and westward, there are
several towns built on the shore, in sight of each other. They are
called Calboo, Douha, Ryam, Small Moutrah, Moutrah, Arbach, and
Showtyfe. One day, during our stay at this port, we visited Mou
trah, which is the largest. It contains 18,000 inhabitants, and, in
appearance, is quite as large as Muscat, from which it is distant two
miles. It is situated on a deep bay, and is built on a sandy plain, and
has no more vegetation in its vicinity than Muscat itself.
Our guide, Mehamet, led us directly to the bazaar, which, as in
Muscat, occupies the principal thoroughfares, where we saw several
Banyans weighing a diminutive dried fish, about two inches long, and
packing them in bales for exportation. This species of fish literally
fills the waters of Oman. They sometiines appeared in dense strata
about the ship, so thick as to completely hide the cable from view,
which was distinctly seen when they were not present. In one place
they were making ' holwah,' in great copper pans, in which the ma
terials were stirred with sticks, as they boiled, by naked Arabs, who
were sweating profusely over their toil. ' Holwah ' is a very favorite
sweetmeat, constituted of sugar, almonds and butter or ghee, pro-

76 APOTHECARY  BANYAN WOMAN  BELOCHES.
perly mingled; but we found it far from agreeable. The articles ex
posed in the bazaar for sale, were similar to those seen in Muscat;
beads, bracelets, cottons, sticks of antimony, (the sulphuret) rose
buds, sandals, senna leaves, &c. At several stalls, the only store
room was a large chest, set fast in masonry. Here we saw se
veral Beloches, burnishing sword blades, which they held fast upon
the ground with their feet, while they rubbed them with burnishers.
Parched corn, used as a sort of frosting for sweetmeats, was pre
paring, by toasting it with sand, in a copper pan over the fire, and
then separating them with a sieve. Here sat, amongst his drugs, a
long, skinny-fingered apothecary, "Famine in his cheeks:
Need and oppression staring in his eyes:
Contempt and beggary hanging on his back"TT:-
here he squatted, with herbs and simples spread on the ground, weigh
ing out the quantities of a written prescription, upon which, from
time to time, he cast his eyes as he slowly proceeded. Not far from
him, was an old Arab, leaning on a staff; his beard swept upon his
breast, and naturally was silvery gray, but was now dyed a bright
yellow; nor was it as unsightly ag one would suppose. Negro wo
men ape the customs of their lighter colored mistresses, and screen
their sooty countenances behind black dominos, Httle suspecting their
peculiar laugh, all hearty as it is, is enough to betray their complex
ion. The only Banyan woman I saw, was dressed in a mantle of yellow
silk, pantalettes of white and blue stripe, gathered full at the ankle,
over which was a pink frock, extending from the neck below the knee,
and without cincture. A gold chain, or rather collar of broad links,
encircled the neck; and, besides several gold chains over the neck,
and ear-rings, she wore, through one side of the nose, a gold ring, not
less than two and a half inches in diameter: it had a broad plate on
one side of it, and, to keep it out of the way of the mouth, it was
looped up by a thread, which passed over the forehead.
Followed by a crowd, we walked through the bazaar, and entered
a town, which is walled in within the precincts of Moutrah, and in
habited by a tribe from Sinde, who profess the Mohammedan faith,
but Hve entirely separate from the Arabs. They are named Beloches,
and in the estimation of the other followers of the Islamic religion,
stand next to the Banyans, who are amongst the most degraded peo
ple in the East, The meanest Arab would not give his daughter in

RELOOHE TOWN  WEAVING  BELOOHE HUT. 77
marriage to a Beloche, no matter how worthy: such an act would be
sufficient to eject him from his tribe, and send him forth an outcast
upon the world. The Beloches are industrious, and have some skill
in the humbler branches of the mechanical arts. Their number, in
Moutrah, is estimated at 2000. They are without a chief, and are
subject, equally with the Arab inhabit-.ints, to the Outtli of Moutrah.
Theonlygateof the Beloche town opens upon the beach, and shuts,
in an arid plain of about half a mile square, which is bounded in
the rear by bleak and barren rocks. The huts are constructed of
palm leaves, and are arranged without regard to order. None of
them is more than ten feet high; some have round, and some have
conical roofs, and all are enclosed in small yards, the fences of which
are also of palm leaves. In one corner of the town, stands a small
white mosque, with two small turrets in front; and near it is a grave
yard, filled with white tombs and the humbler graves of the poor,
marked by fragments of coral, sprinkled over them.
The sun was pouring his meridian rays upon the white earth; no
one was abroad, save two or three boys, who were drawing water for
a half dozen camels, which, they told us, belonged to the Sultan; the
profound stillness was only broken by the occasional sound of the wea
ver's shuttle, not ysrj actively plied.
The loom is of very rude fabric, and the warp, instead of being iij
a frame or upon a roller, was stretched along the ground, and secured
by the weight of two or three stones. The weaver, with only a band
of cotton about his loins, sat in a hole hollowed in the ground, deep
enough to bring him in a position convenient to the loom. His hut
had a flat roof, with two walls, one behind him, and the other on his
side, between him and the sun. This contrivance for weaving re-
jniijded us of the descriptions of the looms used by the ancient Jews.
Mehamet led us into a Beloche hut, to procure for us a drink of
water, We found the interior very clean and lined with mats. At
one end of the apartment was a mat, stretched on a square frame,
elevated above the ground so as tp fulfil tbe office of a sofa. An el
derly woman, who sat upon the floor, in a silk frock and mantle,
smoking a hubble-bubble, very courteously ipotioned us to the seat, and
quickly brought us a China bowl of cool water. In a moment after,
a young woman entered, leaving her wooden sandals on the threshold;
they were kept on the feet by a small peg or button, that stood perpen
dicularly between the great toe and the one next to it. She wore a do
mino, a black mantle over the head, a pink silk frock, with long loose
sleeves, over striped pantalettes, and her feet were stained with hena,

78 LA'rt'ATIAS — HAUL BIN HAMMET.
She Wore several gold ornaments on the neck; five silver bracelets on
each arm; two silver rings on each thumb, and one on each fore and
little finger. In a few minutes she removed her domino, which was
black, bordered with tinsel, and discovered a ring through her nose,
with a long pendant reposing on the nether lip. Had it not been for
this savage ornament, and the dark stain of antimony on the lower
eyelid, which gave her countenance a sleepy expression, her face
might have been thought comely, in spite of its dark complexion.
In the same town of Moutrah, there is still another small town en
closed, which is inhabited by a tribe called Lawatias, who do not
admit even the Arabs to pass their gate; " because," said Captain
Calfaun, " their wives and daughters go unmasked." They are es
timated to be a thousand in number.
Amongst the numerous Arabs who daily visited the ship, was
Halil bin Hammet, son of the late governor of Zanzibar. Halil is
about fourteen years of age, and is looked on as a youth of very wild
and eccentric habits. He was usually accompanied by two hand
some Bedouin soldiers, whom he appeared to have attached to him
self, either by kind treatment or generosity. Halil generally dressed
in white, with a girdle of cloth of gold, beneath vvhich was a leathern
belt, filled with beautifully chased silver chargers, each having a
stopper secured by a chain of the same metal. lie wore a turban
that showed him to belong to the tribe of ^the Sultan, and his khun
ger was richly ornamented with gold. In these chargers he had
some very coarse gunpowder; but getting a sight of some of excel
lent quality, he importuned every officer for " barouta " — gun
powder, and when he obtained any, he emptied a charger into a paper
to receive that which v/as presented to him. He ran from one part
of the ship to another, examining every thing, but was much more
interested by viewing various kinds of arms, than any thing else.
He visited us daily, and managed at each visit to get three or four
of his chargers filled with gunpowder, his first attempt to obtain it,
was by demanding, and when a small quantity was offered, he re
fused it with great indignation. Finding, however, this plan unsuc
cessful, he assumed an humble manner, and petitioned for "barouta,"
in most courteous and winning tones. To all appearance, he freely
parted with his khunger, but asked for it when about going away;
yet he sold his turban off his head, to a gentleman on board, and sup
plied its place on the spot with his girdle.
Amongst various articles brought on board for sale, were khun
gers, and swords, some of which were of Persian manufacture, but

BANQUET AT THE PALACE OF THE SULTAN. 79
most of them were made in England for this market. The attar of
roses, and of jasmine flowers, were brought off in considerable quan
tities, but neither of them is manufa:ctured in Arabia; they are brought
from Constantinople, both by way of the Red Sea, and over land to
Persia, and down the Euphrates, and thus find their way to all parts
of India, being articles much used by the wealthy every vvhere in
the East.
The officers were invited to dine with the Sultan, on the second of
October. At four o'clock P. M. the Ouali, with Captain Calfaun,
came on board, in three boats, each manned by from eight to twelve
Lascars— sailors, from the coast of Malabar — and carried Commodore
Kennedy, Captain Stribling, Mr. Roberts, and a large number of the
officers, on shore, and conducted them to the palace. We entered a
part of the building, still unfinished, and passing through a small
court, in the centre of which was a lime tree^every green leaf is re
markable in this sun-scorched capital — ascended flights of wooden
stairs, which terminated in an open court, on the third floor. Here
we were met by the Sultan and his two sons, arrayed as we had first
seen them; and each of them shaking us individually by the hand,
we entered an unfurnished hall or anteroom, which opened upon the
court. Numerous servants, dressed in white, wearing richly mounted
khungers, in their girdles of cloth of gold, were on either hand,
standing respectfully, without their sandals. They saluted us with
the graceful Arab salam, as we passed into the dining hall.
This apartment is plain in its appearance. The walls have several
flat recesses a foot deep, crossed by shelves, on which were placed a
variety of cut glass, and French porcelain. At the upper end of
the room, hung prints of the naval engagements between the U. S,
Ship Constitution, and H. B. M. Ship Guerriere, and between
the U. S. Ship United States, and H. B. M. Ship Macedonian.
Several mirrors, aud prints were suspended upon the side walls.
The floor was covered with Persian rugs. The dinner was already
spread before us, upon three tables, which were not uniform, either in
height or dimensions, and therefore joined badly; shawls of camel's
hair served as table cloths, and the whole decoration was befitting a
ball supper.
So soon as we had assembled near the table. His Highness
stated, that on such occasions as the present, it was not his custom
to sit at table, but to retire and leave his guests to unrestrained en
joyment; nevertheless, if it were our desire, he would conform to
our fashion. Mr. Roberts replied, that it was not our wish to break

80 DESCRIPTION OF ARAB FEAST.
through any of the usages of our Arab friends, and though His
Highness were absent, we should not forget him. The Sultan then
salamed and withdrew. We took our seats, and the Oua.li and Cap
tain Calfaun joined the servants in waiting, apparently emulous to ex
ceed them in poHte attention, and the duties of their place.
The dinner was served on white porcelain, and the knives and
forks were from our own messes on board, the Arabs seldom re
quiring any other instruments than their fingers, wherewith to de
spatch their food. The repast spread before us, which was cold, and
sufficient in quantity for two hundred Englishmen, who are the great
eaters in this world, (see. Captain Basil Hall's account of the enor
mous breakfast eaten by himself at the City Hotel, New York,) con
sisted of two sheep, stuffed with dates, prunes, and cajoo nuts, and
roasted whole; fowls, dressed and cooked in a similar manner; joints
of roast meat; several kinds of sweetmeats; rice, dressed with sugar
and turmeric, resembling curry in appearance; lozenge-shape cakes,
an inch thick, made of milk and rice, some white, some yellow;
sweet cakes or bread, an inch thick, and of the size of a plate; man
goes, from Barhein; grapes; custard apples, (annona squamosa,) &c.
Different sorts of sherbet, lemonade, and new milk, were the only
fluids upon the table. All these good things were so crowded and
mingled together, that it required considerable tact to safely extri
cate a selected dish from amongst its many neighbors. It was truly
a temperance feast, and most things were Very much to our taste and
satisfaction. " Steward and squire, with heedful haste,
Marshall'd the rank of every guest;
Pages, with ready blade were there.
The mighty meal to carve and share."
At the close of the banquet, coffee was served in China cups, sup
ported in stands of cut glass, each stand holding three cups. After
this. Captain CalfaUn and a slave took the handkerchief of each
guest, and poured upon it a plentiful supply of attar of roses. They
were followed by a slave, bearing a golden arrosoir, in the shape of
a Florence flask, having a long neck and perforated extremity, like
that of a watering pot, with which he dashed a quantity of rose wa
ter where the attar had been poured. This done, the Sultan entered,
and remarked that we had partaken so sparingly of the feast that he
thought it would be well to send the remains of it on board ship.
We took leave of His Highness and the two princes, at the

DOMINIONS OF THE SULTAN OF MUSCAT. 81
head of the stairs, and were accompanied to the boats by the governor
and Captain Calfaun.
On Monday, the 5th of October, His Highness, accompanied
by one of his sons and Captain Calfaun, visited the ship. He was
received with a salute of twenty-one guns, and manned yards; and
on his taking leave, which he did at the end ofa half hour, the same
ceremony was repeated. On landing, he requested Lieutenant C.
C. Turner, who commanded the boat which carried the Sultan on
.shore, to wait a few minutes, that he might send him a present from
the palace. Mr. Turner expressed his acknowledgments for the
Sultan's proffered kindness, and at the same time explained to him
that the constitutional law of our country forbade all its officers to
receive presents from any sovereign or prince.

CHAPTER IX.
SKETCHES IN THE DOMINIONS OF THE SULTAN OF MUSCAT.
October, 1835.
The dominions of the Sultan of Muscat are not very clearly de
fined, though they are of very considerable extent. On the coast of
Africa, he claims all the coast, and circumjacent islands, from Cape
Delgado, situated in ten degrees of south latitude, to Cape Guar-
dafui, in eleven degrees and fifty minutes north. In this range
we find the ports of Monghow, or Mongalow, Lyndy, Mombassa,
Quiloa, Melinda, Lamo, Patta, Brava, Mokdesha, or Magadosh, (the
Magadoxa of the Portuguese,) and the islands of Mafeea, or Mowfea,
Zanzibar, Pemba, Socotra, &c. At a very early period, a tribe of
Arabs, called Aramozzadi, meaning subjects of Zayde, migrated from
the neighborhood of Barhein, in the Persian gulf, and soon afterwards
built Mokdesha and Brava, of which settlements the former was the
metropolis. Tbe first Arab settlers separated, and a part of them
mixing with the Caffres, became Bedouins. Those who remained at
Makdesha were the first who enjoyed the profits of the gold mines of
11

82 PEARLS OF BARHEIN.
Sofala, which they accidentally discovered. Thence they spread
themselves to the southward, and obtained possession of Quiloa,
Mombassa, Melinda, and, besides the islands above named, those of
Comoro and others. Quiloa became their chief plantation; whence
they established other settlements, particularly on the island of
Madagascar. Such is the account of the settlement of the east coast of Africa,
given in a collection of early voyages, chiefly extracted from " Pur-
chas' Pilgrims" and Hackluyt's collection. The first navigators
who doubled the cape of Good Hope found that the inhabitants spoke
Arabic, and professed the religion of Mohammed; this will account
for the practice of circumcision, and other Moslem customs, of seve
ral tribes in Caffraria and Southern Africa, described by the Rev.
S. Kay in his very interesting "Travels and Researches in Caf
fraria." In southern and eastern Arabia, he claims, along the coast, from
cape Aden to cape Ras el Had; thence northward as far as Busso-
rah, in latitude 29° 30' north, all the coast and islands of the Persian
gulf, including the pearl fishery and islands of Barhein, as far as
Sinde, on the eastern side. All this extent of territory is not gar
risoned by his troops, but is considered as tributary to him. Besides,
he rents sulphur mines in Persia, and several estates in Gambroon.
The commercial value of these possessions, and the revenue de
rived from them, we have no means of ascertaining. The pearl
fishery of Barhein was once estimated to be worth, annually, more
than three millions of pounds sterling; but, at present, does not, pro
bably; yield one tenth of that sum. The fishing season lasts from
April until October, and extends over a space of twelve or fifteen
miles. Arabs are the only people engaged in it.
The pearls of Barhein are not so white as those of Ceylon, or of
Japan; but they are larger than those of the former, and of a more
regular form than those of the latter place. Their color inclines to
yellow, but they possess an advantage over others, in maintaining
their lustre; while the white ones, particularly in hot climates, in the
course of time, lose their brilliance. The shell, known as nacre, or
mother of pearl, is applied to many purposes, in all parts of Asia.
The pearis of irregular form and size pass to Constantinople and
Turkey; the large ones are worn as ornaments in the hair, and the
small ones are employed in embroidery. The perfect ones are sent
to Sural, and all parts of Hindoostan. There is little fear of much
diminution in their consumption or pricjj, in the east. They are the

COMMERCE OF MUSCAT. 83
passion of the women, and a superstition increases the sale of this
product of the sea. There is not an individual of them who does not
deem it a matter of religious importance to pierce one pearl, at least,
on the occasion of his nuptials. Let the meaning of this mysterious
custom be what it may, amongst a people whose policy and morals
are enveloped in allegories, and amongst whom religion itself is but
an allegory, this emblem of virgin purity is advantageous to com
merce. Those pearls which have not been recently bored, are used
in decoration; but they will not answer in the bridal ceremony, at
which there is required at least one fresh pearl.*
The exports from Muscat are, wheat, dates, horses, raisins, salted
and dried fish. Mocha coffee, and a great variety of drugs. The pro
ductions of eastern Africa, the Red Sea, the south-east coast of Ara
bia, and the countries bordering on, and apcessible from the Persian
gulf, are generally found in the market. The articles imported in
exchange are rice, cotton aud woollen goods, iron, lead, sugar, and
some spices. Being, from its situation, the key to the Persian Gulf,
vessels from all its shores resort here; from this circumstance, it
may become a place of deposit and sale of merchandise destined for
tbe markets of Bussorah and Persia. Trade is carried on between
Muscat and the Red Sea, the east coast of Africa, the Persian gulf,
Mauritius or Isle of France, many parts of continental and insular
India, and China; but to what extent, I have no means of ascertain
ing, though it is very considerable. There is here an insurance
company, all the members of which are Banyans; and, "notwith
standing," said an Arab merchant to me, "that the Koran requires
the Moslem to trust in God alone, for success in all transactions, the
merchants of Muscat usually insure their ships and cargoes, before
committing them to the perils of the great deep."
The exports from the east coast of Africa, are gum copal, ivory,
tortoise shell, rhinoceros hides and horns, bees' wax, cocoanut oil,
ox hides, rice, millet, ghee, Colombo root, aloes, gum Arabic, and a
variety of other drugs. It is his possessions in Africa, which give
value to the treaty just concluded between the government of the
United States and the Sultan. Those countries have become an
entrepot for American cottons, which find their way thence up the
Red Sea and Persian gulf, and thus to the markets of Persia, where
they are preferred over the English fabrics.! American merchant
* Establecimientos Ultramarinos, Tom. H. Madrid, 1785.
t Burnes' Travels in Bokhara.

84 THE sultan's TITLE  HIS HISTORY.
vessels are seldom seen in the port of Muscat, one only having an
chored there in the last seven years.
The monarch of Muscat is commonly, but erroneously, spoken of
under the title of Imam, which is a name given to Islamic priests,
and when applied to a prime or chief, signifies a sovereign Pontiff.
Soon after the accession of the Sultan, the people were desirous of
creating him Im&m, an officer whose duties include the direction and
management of religious, as well as temporal affairs; but he w&s too
wise to accede to the wishes of his subjects, because it would have
obliged him, according to the usage of the country, to lead a Hfe of
piety and poverty, without the power of openly enjoying his wealth.
This I was told by Captain Calfaun, one evening at his house, vvhen
I met a son of the Sultan's uncle. " That man," said Captain C  ,
" may wander in any part of Arabia, unarmed and without danger;
he has only to declare himself the son of the last Ima.m, and his per
son is sacred." This individual is the only one of the Sultan's
tribe who has the right of wearing his turban approaching in height
to that of His Highness; the material of which the turban is made
distinguishes the tribe, but none, except those ofa royal lineage, may
wear it above a prescribed height.
Syed Syeed bin Sultan, the sovereign of Muscat, is one among the
most distinguished princes in Asia. During a long minority, the ad
ministration of the government was confided to an Imkm, an uncle
of the young monarch, who was unwilling to resign, when his ward
became of age, and, in order to remove him out of his way, con
ducted him to a fortress near Rostak. There the young Sultan was
informed by his friends, that the regent intended to cause his death;
and, to frustrate this ambitious design, he one evening requested to
see his uncle. No sooner was he in his presence than Syed Syeed
stabbed him with his khunger. The regent, wounded as he was,
scaled the wall, and, mounting a swift horse, fled. The friends of
the young prince told him, bis work was but half done, and if his
uncle escaped alive, his throne would be insecure. He at once
mounted and followed his relative, whom he found stretched beneath
a tree, unable to proceed from loss of blood. He there pinned him
to the ground with his spear, and hastening to a neighboring strong
hold, knocked loudly at the gate, and called for assistance, stating
that his uncle was dying not far oft". Of course the regent was found
dead. The Sultan returned to his friends, and the next day hastened
to Muscat, and reached there before the news of the regent's death.
He immediately summoned the captains of the fortresses, and

CHARACTER OF THE SULTAN  ARAB NAVY. 85
when they were all present, he required that they should deliver up
their respective commands, to such persons as he should name,
under pain of immediate death in case of refusal. He appointed suc
cessors from his own tribe, and, has since observed the same policy
in filling all offices in his government. In this manner, he obtained
possession of the throne, in 1807, but held it as a tributary to Sa-
houd Abdallah, the chief of the Wahabites, until 1816, who vvas
that year subdued and conducted to Constantinople by the famed
Ibrahim Pasha, and there publicly executed.*
The Sultan is a brave warrior, as well as a pious Moslem, having
lately made the pilgrimage to Mecca. Several years ago, when the
government of British India was engaged in suppressing Arab pirates,
(the Joassames) who infested the Persian gulf, he acted in alliance
with the English.t He is the Haroun al Raschid of his time, and is
as munificent as he is brave. Not long since, he sent a line-of-battle
ship, called the Liverpool, to Bombay, as a present to the Honorable
East India company; which, being declined, he sent to England,
with his compliments, to William IV. The present was accepted,
and a suitable gift sent in return; and in compliment to the Sultan,
the ship was named the Imam.
The Arabian Navy, under a blood red flag, at present, consists of
seventy-five vessels, (built on the coast of Malabar,) carrying from
four to fifty-six guns each. His principal officers were educated at
Bombay or Calcutta, and his ships are in effective discipline.
The Sultan has two wives; the last one he wedded is a daughter of
the Shah of Persia, and besides these, he has not less than twenty
concubines, from Circassia, Georgia, and Abyssinia. He has seven
sons; but the birth of a female child not being an event to rejoice for
amongst the Arabs, passes without notice: the number of his daugh
ters is therefore unknown.
A large portion of the Sultan's time is occupied at the divan, above
mentioned, in hearing petitions, and administering justice in crimi
nal cases. All litigation involving property is decided by four judges.
There are no lawyers in the place, and the parties only advise and
counsel with their friends. Theft is not common, but instances of
personal quarrel are frequent, and are often decided on the spot, by
an appeal to the khunger or sword. Murder is a capital offence, un
less the relatives of the deceased are willing to commute the sentence
* The History of the Ottoman Empire by Edward Upham, Esq. ^I. R. S. A.
Philadelphia, 1833.
¦j- Crichton's History of Arabia, in Harper's Family Librai-y,

86 CHARACTER OF ARABIANS  PRAYER.
for money; in which case, they usually accept of one thousand dol
lars. Duelling is unknown, and Captain Calfaun expressed his asto
nishment that such a silly custom should prevail amongst sensible or
rational people. " If a man insult you, kill him on the spot; but do
do not give hira the opportunity to kill, as well as insult you."
The Arabs are of small stature, and have small heads. They are
proud, hospitable, and taciturn; nor are they " moved with concord
of sweet sounds," and, therefore, according to the immortal Shak-
spear, " Are fit for treasons, stratagems and spoils."
Conversation, properiy so called, is not common amongst them; which
maybe considered as an evidence of want of civilization. They are said
to be cheats, and not trustworthy, by those who have dealt with them.
It is not fair, however, to stamp the national character from what one
sees or hears in the commercial cities of any country. Men, in all
countries, morally lose by the constant practice of trading, particu
larly when it is in a small way, and are apt to make good bargains
whenever they can; and, I suspect, it will be found, that the passions
of man are the same all the world over, and generally swayed by his
interests. A most inflexible observance of the precepts of their religion, is a
principal feature in the character of these people; for nothing will
prevent them from praying at the appointed hour. The officer who
came on board of the ship, before we arrived, never omitted prayer
at noon, and at four o'clock in the afternoon. He never hesitated to
signify it was his hour, and, spreading out his turban on the quarter
deck, turned his face towards Mecca, and went through his genuflex
ions and prayers with the same formality that he would have observed
in a holy temple of the Prophet. One day, he had occasion to take
medicine, but did not swallow it, till he had muttered a prayer, which,
in his mind at least, increased the beneficial qualities of the potion,
and then, with a look of pious resignation, drained the dregs.
That the important duty of praying " might not be neglected, Mo
hammed obliged his followers to pray five times every twenty-four
hours, at certain stated times; viz. 1. In the morning, before sunrise:
2. When noon is passed, and the sun begins to decline from the me
ridian: 3. In the afternoon, before sunset: 4. In the evening, after
sunset, and before the day be shut in: 5. After the day is shut in, and
before the first watch of the night. For this institution, he pretended
to have received the divine command, from the throne of God him-

EDUCATION  COINS. 87
self, when he took his night journey to heaven: and the observing of
the stated times of prayer is frequently insisted on in the Koran,
though they be not particularly prescribed therein." It is requisite,
while they pray, that they turn their faces towards Mecca, and for
this reason, that quarter is marked in the mosques by a niche, or by
the situation of the doors opening into the galleries of the steeples.
Those who are scrupulously pious, prepare themselves for prayer,
either in a mosque or any place that is clean, and utter a certain num
ber of praises or ejaculations, (which are counted on a string of beads)
with certain postures of worship. " The Mohammedans never address
themselves to God in sumptuous apparel, though they are obliged to
be decently clothed; but lay aside their costly habits and pompous
ornaments, if they wear any, when they approach the divine pre
sence, lest they should seem proud and arrogant. They do not ad
mit their women to pray with them in public; that sex being obliged
to perform their devotions at home, or if they visit the mosques, it
must be at a time when the men are not there: for the Moslems are
of opinion that their presence inspires a different kind of devotion from
that which is requisite in a place dedicated to the worship of God."*
Education is not much attended to in the Sultan's dominions; chil
dren generally are only taught to read and write and recite passages
from the Koran. The wealthy send their sons to Bombay, Calcutta,
and occasionally to Persia, for instruction. Physicians study their
profession in the latter country, but are not considered by the Arabs
themselves trustworthy as surgeons. In this section of the East the
Persian language is what French is in Europe, a court language,
which all the educated speak. Some of those who have been edu
cated in British India pay considerable attention to English. I saw
in the house of one gentleman the novels of Scott and Cooper. As
yet, the engine of knowledge and civilization, the press, has not been
introduced into Muscat; and it is to be regretted, because under the
government of so rational a monarch as Syed Syeed bin Sultan, it would
be a perennial fountain of blessings and benefits to his subjects.
The coins used at Muscat are the " Shaka" of copper, valued at
from 72 to 80 for a dollar. The small copper " gazee " is valued at
20 for one "Mahoraedee," which is of silver, and valued at eleven
for the dollar. But Spanish, Persian, and most of the coins of the east,
are in free circulation.
On the morning of the tenth, we waited upon His Highness to take
¦'' Sale's Koran; Preliminary Discourse.

88 AUDIENCE OF LEAVE.
our final leave. We found him sitting in his divan, dictating to his
secretary, who was seated on the floor with writing materials beside
him, using his knee for a desk. During the interview, which was
short, the Sultan, while the interpreter was speaking, turned to the
secretary and spoke to him as if he were continuing the dictation.
"As you are about to leave us. Commodore," said His Highness,
" I beg you will reflect whether there may be any thing farther that
I can do for you; if there is, you have only to name it." He farther
asked what should be done with the guns in the event of raising
them. He next inquired, from what date the treaty should take ef
fect, and Mr. Roberts begged His Highness to name the day, but he
left it entirely to the decision of Mr. Roberts, who, after some hesi
tation, expressed his opinion that it should take eflect from the day
of its ratification by the President and Senate of the United States, .
namely, the SOth of June, 1834, more than a year past. The Sultan
remarked, that it would then be necessary to refund a part of the du
ties wbich had been paid at Zanzibar since that time; nevertheless,
as such was the opinion of Mr. Roberts, it should be in force from
that date; and added, that it made no difference to him, because the
customs at Zanzibar were farmed for $1 10,000 a year to Banyans, who
were aware, when making their bargain, that the treaty would take
place, though they did not know at what time, and, therefore, had
paid less, expecting the early ratification by the United States. This
concession, which puts some hundreds of dollars into the pockets of
our New England merchants, by whom the trade is chiefly carried
on, filled the measure of the Sultan's liberality; for I believe it is not
customary to consider the provisions of treaties binding, until after
the exchange of their ratification by the governments between which
they are negotiated.
Coffee and. sherbet were served, as on former occasions; and we
took leave, deeply impressed with a sense of gratitude for the kind
exertions made by His Highness in our behalf, when in imminent peril,
not only of shipwreck, but, also, of slavery, and even cruel death,
had the ship been entirely lost. We shall ever entertain a lively
recollection of his generous, benevolent, and noble conduct towards
us upon this, as well as on all occasions; and we most sincerely hope
that the government of the United States will take into consideration
the debt of gratitude we owe, and make a handsome and appropriate
acknowledgment to "His Gracious Highness," at an early period.
Both Mr. Roberts and the Commodore embraced this last oppor
tunity of repeating our thanks to His Highness, for his many atten-

LETTERS FROM MR. UOUERlS. 89
tions and acts of kindness, and we parted, filled with admiration of
the many noble virtues which adorn the sovereign of Muscat.
The Governor of Muscat, Syed bin Calfaun bin Ahamed, was pre
sent, and left the palace with us. We returned to the house of Cap
tain Calfaun, where Mr. Roberts wrote, at the request of the Sultan,
the following letters; —

" To Masters and Supercargoes of American vessels at Zanzibar,
or other ports within the dominions of His Highness, the Sultan
of Muscat. Muscat, IQth October, 1835.
"Gentlemen;
The commercial treaty negotiated by me, on the part of the United
States, with His Highness Syed Syeed bin Sultan, the Sultan of
Muscat, having been ratified and exchanged between the contracting
parties, it is understood and agreed between His Highness and the
United States, that the said treaty went into effect on the SOth day
of June, 1834, being the day on which it was ratified by the Presi
dent and Senate of the United States. All vessels, therefore, whicb
have paid any higher rate of duties than is set forth in the said treaty,
or any charges subsequent to the said SOth day of June aforesaid, are
entitled to be refunded by the collectors of the customs of the vari
ous ports of His Highness for such overcharge.
Your obedient servant,
Edmund Roberts,
Special Agent from the Government
of the United States to the
Sultan of Muscat."

" To Captain Hassan bin Ibrahim.
Zanzibar. Muscat, October 10th, 1835,
Sir;
I have the pleasure to inform you that the treaty contracted be
tween His Highness, the Sultan of Muscat, and the government of
the United States, went into full operation on the SOth day of June,
1834, being the day on which it was ratified on the part of the Presi
dent and Senate of the United States. All vessels or merchandise,
therefore, whicb have paid, subsequently lo that period, any higher
12

90 letters from mr. Roberts.
rate of duties, or charges, than is set forth in the said treaty, a copy
of which is placed in your hands by the Sultan, wdl be refunded by
tbe collectors of the customs for any such overcharge. I have writ
ten, at the request of the Sultan, a letter similar to this, addressed
to American Masters and Supercargoes, which will be forwarded to
Zanzibar by the first conveyance.
Captain Hassan will please accept the good wishes of the under
signed for his health, happiness, and prosperity. Edmund Roberts."

" To American Masters and Supercargoes. Bluscat, October 10, 1835.
Gentlemen,
His Highness, Syed Syeed bin Sultan, of Muscat, wishing to pre
vent any collision between the government of the United States and
His Highness, has requested me to make known to all Masters and
Supercargoes, belonging to vessels of the United States, that the
port of Mombas, in East Africa, being in a state of rebellion, is
blockaded by His Highness' ships of war, and will so continue until
it is again reduced to submission; and, therefore, no vessels will be
permitted to enter said port, during the continuance of such block
ade. I have the honor to be,
very respectfully,
your obedient servant,
Edmund Roberts,
Special Agent of the United States to the
Sultan of Muscat.

After concluding these letters, we were informed that the Ouali
awaited to receive us. His house is a large one. We were led
through a hall, where a crowd of servants salamed as we passed,
and vvere ushered into a large room, on the second floor, with a lofty
ceiling, and lighted by circular windows, glazed with panes of va
rious colors. The fioor was covered with fine Persian rugs, and the
flat recesses, which we found in all the houses of Muscat, were orna
mented with glass and French porcelain. In the centre of the room
stood a table, covered with a camel's hair shawl, and loaded with
dishes of cucumbers, grapes, almonds, quinces from Gambroon, hol
wah, confections of several kinds, and large tumblers of sherbert.

TAKE leave  TREATY. 91
After partaking of this entertainment, coffee was served, in enamelled
cups, of Persian manufiicture, borne on stands of cut glass. Our
handkerchiefs were then sprinkled with orange flower water, from an
arrosoir of silver, and held over censers in which frankincense was
burning. The governor now conducted us to the house of his brother, where,
pretty nearly the same ceremonies were observed. The rooms, how
ever, were more gaudy, being furnished with rich rugs, and small otto
mans, each one covered by silk or satin of a different color. The
silver, arrosoir, the censers, and even the enamelled cups of Persia,
resembled those vve had seen at the governor's, so much, that it would
have been difficult to distinguish one from the other. We took leave,
and were accompanied to the boat by the goA'ernor and Captain Cal
faun. There we shook hands; good wishes were mutually and hearti
ly bestowed, and we parted.
It is a universal custom, amongst the nations of Asia, to make gifts
to each other on all occasions of friendly intercourse; and, in nego
tiating treaties, the nature and value of the presents is always a
point of grave consideration between the contracting agents. In
conformity with this usage, a variety of articles was presented to
the Sultan by the United States, amongst which were a sword and
altagan, with gold scabbards, and mountings, Tanner's map of the
United States, an American flag, a set of American coins, several
rifles, a number of cut glass lamps, a quantity of American nankin,
known as Forsyth's nankin. &c. &c.
A TREATY OF AMITY AND COMMERCE
Between the United States of America, and His Majesty
Syed Syeed bin Sultan of Muscat and his Dependencies.
Art. I. There shall be a perpetual peace between the United States
of America and Syed Syeed bin Sultan and his dependencies.
Art. II. The citizens of the United States shall have free liberty
to enter the ports of his majesty, Syed Syeed bin Sultan, with their
cargoes, of whatever kind the said cargoes .nay consist, and they shall
have liberty to sell the same to any of the subjects of the Sultan, or
others who may wish to buy the same, or to barter the same for any
produce or manufactures of the kingdom, or other articles that may
be found there. No price shall be fixed by the Sultan or his officers,
on the articles to be sold by the merchants of the United States, or
the merchandise they may wish to buy, but the trade shall be free on

92 . treaty with
both sides, to sell, or buy, or exchange on the terms and for the
prices the owners may think fit; and whenever the said citizens of
the United States may think fit to depart, they shall be at liberty so
to do; and if any officer of the Sultan shall contravene this article,
he shaU be severely punished. Itis understood and agreed, how
ever, that the articles of muskets, powder, and ball can only be sold
to the government, in the island of Zanzibar; but in all other ports
of the Sultan, the said munitions of war may be freely sold without
any restrictions whatever to the highest bidder.
Art. hi. Vessels of the United States, entering any port within
the Sultan's dominions, shall pay no more than five per cent, duties
on the cargo landed, and this shall be in full consideration of all im
port and export duties, tonnage, license to trade, pilotage, anchorage,
or any other charge whatever. Nor shall any charge whatever be
paid on that part of the cargo which may remain on board unsold and
re-exported. Nor shall any charge whatever be made on any vessel
of the United States, which may enter any of the ports of his Majes
ty, for the purpose of refitting, or for refreshments, or to inquire the
state of the market.
Art. IV. The American citizen shall pay no other duties on export
or import, tonnage, license to trade, or other charge whatever, than
the nation most favored shall pay.
Art. V. If any vessel of the United States shall suffer shipwreck
on any part of the Sultan's dominions, the persons escaping from the
wreck shall be taken care of, and hospitably entertained at the ex
pense of the Sultan, until they shall find an opportunity to be returned
to their country, (for the Sultan can never receive any remuneration
whatever for rendering succor to the distressed;) and the property
saved from such wreck shall be carefully preserved and delivered to
the owner, or the Consul of the United States, or to any authorized
agent. Art. VI. The citizens of the United States, resorting to the ports
of the Sidtan, for the purpose of trade, shall have leave to land and
reside in the said ports without paying any tax or imposition whatever
for such liberty, other than the general duties on import, which the
most favored nation shall pay.
Art. VII. If any citizens of the United States, or their property,
shall be taken by pirates, and brought within the dominions of the
Sultan, the persons shall be set at liberty, and the property restored
to the owner, if he is present, or to the American Consul, or to any
other authorized agept.

THE SULTAN OF MUSCAT. 93
" Art. viii. Vessels belonging to the subjects of the Sultan which
may resort to any port in the United States, shall pay no other or
higher rate of duties, or other charges than the nation the most fa
vored shall pay.
"Art. IX. The President of the United States may appoint con
suls to reside in the ports of the Sultan, where the principal com
merce shall be carried on, which consuls shall be the exclusive judges
of all disputes or suits, wherein American citizens shall be engaged
with each other. They shall have the power to receive the property
of any American citizen dying within the kingdom, and to send the
same to his heirs, first paying all his debts, due to the subjects of the
Sultan. The said consuls shall not be arrested, nor shall their pro
perty be seized, nor shall any of their household be arrested, but
their persons and property shall be inviolate. Should any consul,
however, commit any offence against the laws of the kingdom, com
plaint shall be made to the President, who will immediately displace
him. " Concluded, signed and sealed, at the Royal Palace in the City of
Muscat, in the Kingdom of Aman, the twenty-first day of Septem
ber, in the year one thousand, eight hundred and thirty-three of the
christian era, and the fifty-seventh year of the Independence of the
United States of America, corresponding with the sixth day of the
moon, called "Jamada Alawel," in the year of Al Hajra, (Hegira)
one thousand, two hundred and forty-nine,"
The ratification of the above treaty, on the part of the United
States, bears date, June SOth, 1834. The following certificate is ap
pended to the copy of the treaty, in the possession of the State De
partment, " This is to certify, that on the thirtieth day of September, Anno
Domini, one thousand, eight hundred and thirty-five, corresponding
to the sixth day of the moon, called "Jamada Althani," in the year of
Al Hajra, one thousand, two hundred and fifty-one, Edmund Ro
berts, a special agent of the United States of America, delivered
and exchanged a ratified copy of a treaty, signed at Muscat, in the
kingdom of Aman, on the twenty-first day of September, one thou
sand eight hundred and thirty-three of the christian era, correspond-'
ing to the sixth day of the moon, called Jamada Alawel, in the year
of Al Hajra, one thousand, two hundred and forty-nine.
"In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, at
Muscat aforesaid, on the sixth day of the moon, called "Jamada Al
thani," in the year Al Hajra, one thousand, two hundred and fifty-

94 treaty.
one, corresponding to the thirtieth day of September, one thousand
eight hundred and thirty-five of the christian era.
Syed Syeed bin Sultan.
The above treaty is written upon parchment in the Arabic and
English languages; its provisions are binding from the date of its ra
tification by the government of the United States.

SKETCHES IN HINDOOSTAN.

voYAdi: ro HOMiiAv. 07

CHAPTER X.
SKETCHES IN HINDOOSTAN.
Odober, 1835.
Just as the sun set, on the tenth of October, we fired a farewell
salute, and, with a gentle land breeze, bade farewell to the barren
rocks of Oman, anxious to be far away from its 'green waters,' be
neath a less ardent sky. Our passage was marked by light airs, calms,
and sultry weather. On several occasions, while crossing the Ara
bian sea, we remarked the phosphorescence of its waters at night; and
when about two hundred miles to the southward of the classic Indus,
we were visited by several beautiful land birds. In the sultry calm,
which generally prevailed about mid-day, we saw a number of yellow
water snakes, marked by bright black bands, floating lazily upon the
mirror-like bosom of the sea. And, on two or three nights, we saw
Halley's comet, which had been so long anticipated by astronomers.
On the evening of the twenty-second, we descried the lighthouse of
Bombay, and, after firing in vain for a pilot, dropped anchor in sight
of a large fleet of fishing-boats. Early the following morning, we
were again underway; a pUot boarded us, and about midday the ship
was fast to the moorings assigned to her. We had the pleasure to
find the Enterprise had been waiting our arrival several days; and
the officers of the two vessels allowed but little time to elapse before
they met.
" Of all places in the noble range of countries so happily called the
Eastern World," says Captain Basil Hall, in his amusing ' Frag
ments of Voyages and Travels,' " from the pitch of the cape (of Good
Hope) to the islands of Japan, from Bengal to Batavia, nearly every
hole and corner I have visited in the course of my peregrinations,-
there are few which can compare with Bombay. If, indeed, I were
consulted by any one who wished, as expeditiously and economically
as possible, to see all that was essentially characteristic of the orien
ts

98 harbor of BOMBAY.
tal worid, I would say, without hesitation, ' Take a run to Bombay;
remain there a week or two: and having also visited the scenes in the
immediate neighborhood, Elephant.-), Carli, and Poonah,you will have
examined good specimens of most things that are curious or interest
ing in the East.' "
The harbor of Bombay is formed by a number of islands, situated
in the vicinity of the main, which shut in a beautiful sheet of water,
of several miles in extent. The land is generally not very high, and
the island of Bombay itself, though studded with some few hills, is low
and marshy. There is a sufficient depth for the largest ships, and a
tide that rises and falls seventeen feet.
From the anchorage, there is nothing striking, either in the ap
pearance of Bombay, or of the harbor, except its extent; and after
reading the paragraph quoted above, one feels a very considerable
degree of disappointment, to see nothing but an extensive fortress,
of no great height, built of hewn stone and darkened by time; no
thing appearing above it, except one needle-like spire of a presby-
terian church. With what degree of allowance we are to receive
the impression conveyed by the said paragraph, in relation to the
scenes on shore, is a matter we may not at present decide: yet, we
certainly did not anticipate much from the picture after a glimpse of
its setting. Perhaps the warm colors in which travellers so com
monly draw pictures of places they visit, too readily fire the imagina
tion, warmed by the anticipation of seeing new countries, and betray
the judgment into too exalted notions; thus bringing disappointment
upon the visiter and discredit upon the traveller, whose description
he may have read, widiout, however, the traveller being really to
blame. I have sometimes ventured to think, in these book-writing
times, that books of travel are often ' got up ' as a pleasant recreation
for the home-staying, rather than with a view to afford them a substi
tute for travel, by presenting accurate portraits of places visited. The
writers seem to be satisfied that tlie world had rather be amused
than instructed, and to care little whether their works serve or not,
as guides to those who may follow in their track; but I do not
accuse them of obedience to the trite command, " Never spoil a story
for the sake of the truth."
About five o'clock in the afternoon, when the sun's rays were not
so intense as at midday, we pulled for shore, and made our way to
the • new bunder.' Near the shore, rode a crowd of small craft at
anchor; in their construction, resembling the diius of east Africa
and Arabia. Their beaks and stems are high, their masts rake for-

VISIT THE SHORE — PALANql'INS. 99
ward, and every one had a square box, or a platform slung over the side
amidships, on which might be seen a half-naked Hindoo, performing
ablution or other per.sonal service. A most common sight on board
these craft about this hour, was that of a knot of half naked sailors,
intently engaged in a minute and mutual inspection of heads; but
they never would be taken on this account for phrenologists. ^ These
vessels were from Goa and other places on the liindoostanee coast.
The numerous boats, plying to and fro, their hulls shaped like a half
melon, carried latine sails, which appeared to us very large, until
we observed, they make up in spread what they want in density or
closeness of texture.
Scarcely had our feet touched the inclined plain or slip of stone,
terminating the long mole, called the ' new bunder,' before a half
dozen palanquins were offered to our acceptance, the bearers impor
tuning us, much after the fashion of porters and hackney-coachmen
on the arrival of a steamer at the wharves of New York or Philadel
phia. A palanquin is an oblong box, seven feet long, two and a half
wide and four high, having sliding doors or blinds on either side, by
which the passenger is admitted, and which may be left open or
closed at his pleasure. The interior is lined with calico and trimmed
with silk curtains; a thin mattress or cushion covers the floor, on
which he reclines: at the head there is a pillow, and at the foot a
shelf for the accommodation of hat, &c., and a round pillow to place
beneath the hams. A thick pole, about flve feet long, secured by
ironstaunchions, projects from each end: by means of these the car
riage is borne on the shoulders of four bearers of brawny frames,
who, with the exception of a turban and kummerband, or cloth tied
about the loins, go naked; they travel as fast as a horse ordinarily
trots; the motion is tremulous and wearying, until one becomes ac
customed to it.
The eyening being pleasant, we preferred walking; besides, I felt,
I must confess, a repugnance to be carried about on the shoulders of
men; a prejudice I did not entirely get rid of while at Bombay. As
we pursued our walk along the bunder, we saw numerous equipages,
and noticed a small house for the accommodation of custom-house
officers on the look out for contraband. It was a novel sight to see
kummerbanded Hindoos, turbanded Banyans, and lofty capped Par-
sees in white, sitting iii English-built buggies, driving active horses,
having a Hindoo, in a white costume, running alongside with a hand
on the shaft, or just ahead, ever and anon crying out, " paish," to
warn foot passengers out of the way. Buggies, phaetons, stanhopes

100 HINDOO NEW YEAR.
and palanquins, were passing in and out of the castle as we entered
it. The castle or fortress has a double ditch or fosse, and two walls;
the entrance, therefore, is over two drawbridges, and through two
gates, at both of which are English sentinels, who are particular in
giving the appropriate military salutes to passing officers.
The night was held as a festival, in celebration of the Hindoo new
year. About seven o'clock, we strolled through several streets to
the bazaar, which we found crowded witb people from all parts of
the East. The whole place was brilliant with lamps of cocoanut oil,
generally constituted of a tumbler half full of water with the oil
floating thereon, suspended in a glass globe. Nothing can be more
amusing to a stranger than this scene. The illumination was bril
liant and the crowd great. Here were stalls filled with tobacco and
arecanuts, which the shopmen were cutting with shears, into small
pieces; next, a tippling shop where arrack was sold, conspicuous in
the bright lamp-light, by the red color of the barrels; and then per
haps a stall filled with confections. In the crowd were numerous
children, borne on the arms of their attendants, decorated with tinsel
and silk skull caps of various colors; and, from the dark pencilling
of the eyelids with antimony or soot, looking grotesquely enough.
Presently we halted in a crowd, gazing at a huge mask in a China
man's shop, that was so contrived as to open and shut the eyes and
mouth in continuous succession. AU seemed to be a dumb show;
no one spoke above his breath; there was no hum of human voices,
such as v/ould arise from such a moving mass of heterogeneous human
beings in any part of the christian world.
We strolled about for an hour, elbowing our way, first to one side
and then to the other, at each moment beholding something novel.
Fatigued at last by our wanderings, we turned our ways to the new
bunder and embarked.
The next day I employed, as '' dubash," a Parsee of polite exte
rior, and accompanied him to examine several houses which were to
rent, with the view of establishing on shore as many as could not
be otherwise accommodated, while the ship should be in dry dock
undergoing repair. I had scarcely landed, before I was in a palan
quin, accompanied by a Hindoo, who bore a Chinese umbrella, with
which to protect me from the sun wherever I might go. This func
tionary, who is termed a " Mussol," I found, on many occasions, to
be a very useful attache. My Parsee dubash carried his own para
sol, and walked near the palanquin, pointing out every thing we
passed. After looking at several establishments, I found one in

LIVING AT BOMBAY  DOCKS. 101
" Rampart Row " that suited us. The dubash was left to make the
necessary arrangements, and the following day, at five o'clock P. M.
according to promise, we found our house furnished, supplied with
servants, and dinner on the table.
One cannot conceive easily the mode of Hving in Bombay. The du
bash was the right hand man — thsfac totum, who supplied every thing
we desired. Our Httle establishment required a butler or steward,
whosebusiness was to take care of the pantry and table: he was a Parsee,
and for his religion's sake, would not meddle with fire, nor drink out
of any thing belonging to us; and his own cup, which was of a sort
of brass, he did not touch with his lips, but when he drank, held
back his head, and poured into his wide open mouth a stream of
water. The cook was a half caste Portuguese, and, though there
was a cistern of fine water at hand, he required a man, who was of
the Parboo caste, to draw it for hira, besides a Hindoo, to perform
the duties of a scullion, and keep the glass lamps in order. Fuel
was supplied by women; and two came every day to sweep the
street before the door, and to remove all immundicities from the prcr
mises. Besides these menials, each one of us had his mussol and pa
lanquin bearers, as occasion required.
The ship was docked, and we found the injury so extensive, that
it was necessary to put on a new false keel, and caulk and copper
the bottom, for which every facility was kindly offered by the offi
cers of the Honorable East India Company. The dock yard is es,-
tensive, and contains all the necessary appliances for repairing ships,
There are two fine docks, each one capacious enough to contain three
vessels at the same time; but, owing to the bar at their entrance, not
capable of receiving the largest size ships of war, without the labo
rious and tedious process of buoying them over the bar, by the aid
of camels and casks. Bombay has many claims to celebrity for her
ship-building and naval arsenal. The buUders and mechanics are
generally Parsees, who are said to be assiduous and skilful; but
owing to their peculiar manner of working, do not accomplish in the
same space of time so-much as Europeans usually do. The feet are
as much employed as the hands; and the carpenter sits upon the
ground, holding the plank or wood, upon which he was at work, be
tween his feet, while the hands manoeuvre the plane or saw, as occa
sion may suggest.
Having taken proper precautions against musquitoes, the torment
ing little bores of humanity in the East, we slept soundly in our new
lodgings, and the next day set about seeking information relative tq

/

102 PERIODICAL PRESS.
the place of our sojourn; but, never in the whole course of our wan
derings, in different parts of the world, have we found it more diffi
cult to obtain local knowledge. Those persons who, we presumed,
possessed information, of the kind we sought, either had it not, or
were not free to communicate it; and many of those to whom we
were so bold as to address questions, either looked puzzled, or gave
indefinite and evasive answers. Yet we were happy in being very
kindly and very hospitably entertained, but do not think it becoming
to individualize, by making public acknowledgments for private
courtesies. The periodical press of Bombay affords little matter of general in
terest. The Bombay directory, which is irregularly published, con
tains an almanac and the official registers, and some of the laws re
lating to the Company. "The Oriental Christian Spectator," published
monthly, at the " American Mission Press," is interesting to the
friends of the missionary cause, in all parts of the world. The
" Bombay Government Gazette " appears weekly, on a sheet of fools
cap size; its columns are filled with notices and proclamations, in
the English, Hindoortanee and Mahratta languages. The "Bombay
Gazette" and the Bombay Courier," are bi-weekly, and twice as
large as the last. Then, there is the " Price Current," and a weekly
paper, entitled " Bombay Hurkaru and Vurtuman," edited by a Par-
see, in the Hindoostanee language.
The " Bombay Gazette " for October 24, 1835, contains the fol
lowing polite notice of our arrival, which may be interesting to Ame
ricans, as it is in a slight degree indicative of the notions entertained
of them by Englishmen generally, though not universally.
" The arrival of the American ship of war in this port, reminds us
of some rumors which were afloat last season, regarding the object
of American ships of war in the Indian seas, and particularly, of
their making Muscat their chief destination. The burden of those
rumors was, that the Americans were wishful to establish a factory
at Muscat, and had applied to the Imaum for a license for that pur
pose. It was even said, that their application was in so far success
ful, until a remonstrance on the subject had been forwarded to the
Imaura by the Admiral. Whether Jonathan's views are to be di
rected to the same purpose on this present occasion, we have no means
of ascertaining; although, from his known perseverance, we should
not be surprised to flnd the affirmative to be the fact."
The preceding pages of this work show, pretty clearly, what
weight the Admiral's remonstrance had with the Sultan of Muscat,

THE admiral's REMONSTRANCE. 103
and will explain to the editor of the " Bombay Gazette " ' the object
of American ships of war in the Indian seas,' should the volume, by
any chance, fall in his way. At an interview of some British officers
with " His Highness of Muscat," — it may have been on the occasion
of presenting the above named remonstrance, — they spoke to him dis
paragingly of the United States, and said they formed an insignifi
cant nation, in the eyes of Europe. " How can that be?" replied
the Sultan: " I see in my ports ten of their ships for one of yours, and
I have read, they flowed you in two wars." " ' j
I am not surprised that the editor of the " Bombay Gazette "
should so far mistake the policy of the government of the United
States as to imagine that we are desirous of establishing factories
abroad. I have seen this notion alluded to, and expressed, by seve
ral English writers, whom we would have supposed better informed
in the matter. As an instance of the prevalence of this notion, I may
be excused for adding the following sentence, quoted by Stephen
Kay, in his interesting " Travels and Researches in Caffraria," be
fore quoted, from the " South African Quarterly Journal " for 1830.
"Should this bay (Delagoa) fall into the possession either of the
Americans, the French, or the Russians, it would be most ruinous,
not only to the Cape colony, but to our East India possessions and
commerce, either in peace or war; and in war, as being one of the
finest ports in the world, whence inimical enterprises might issue at
pleasure." We can assure all those gentlemen, they have nothing to apprehend
from us, on the score of foreign factories and colonies, at least for
the present: being entirely opposed, both in principle and practice,
to the system of monopolies, our motto will be, for centuries to comej
" Free Trade, and Sailors' Rights."

104" the BOMBAY PRESIDENCY.

CHAPTER XI.
SKETCHES IN HINDOOSTAN.

November, 1835.

The small island of Bombay, situated on the Malabar coast, in
latitude 18° 56' north, and longitude 72° 57' east, being about ten
miles in length, and three in breadth, gives its name to the whole
presidency of Bombay. It is separated from the island of Salsette,
on the north, by a narrow strait, half a mile wide, called the river
Mahim, which is crossed by a causeway, or viaduct, which connects
the two islands. Bombay castle, which stands on the southern end
of the island, is eight or ten miles distant from the main land. The
island is generally low and level, and is traversed by fine Macadam
ized roads. The soil is fertile during a great part of the year, but,
being frequently flooded in the rainy season, the climate is unhealthy;
the most prevailing diseases are intermittent and typhoid fevers, and
dysentery. For a long time after it was first visited by Europeans
it was regarded with horror; few persons had courage to reside where
the cHmate was so fatal, that it was a proverbial saying, " The Hfe
of man was equal in duration to that of two monsoons." When first
taken possession of, the fields were overgrown with bamboos and
palms, and were manured by decayed fish; and marshes and pools
infected the atmosphere with their exhalations. These destructive
miasms would have driven the English away, had it not been that
the island has the best harbor in all Hindoostan; the only one, ex
cept that of Goa, capable of admitting ships of the line; they secured
to themselves this important matter, and, by opening and draining
the country, succeeded in depriving the cHmate, in a very great de
gree, if not entirely, of its insalubrious qualities. Now, instead of

island of BOMBAY  GUINEA WORM — T0Wi*j
marshes and pools, the island presente the aspect of an extensiveTrid*
well cultivated garden.
There are few springs on the island. Fresh water is supplied from
large cisterns, or tanks, which are filled by the rains; but it is not
considered wholesome, nor does it preserve well at sea; therefore,
vessels carrying passengers usually call at Ceylon, in their way to
Europe, for this iinportant article. A singular disease is said to arise
frora the use of Bombay water; an insect, or worm, is conveyed from
it into the system, which, after a time, makes its appearance upon
the surface of the body, in a vesicle, frequently as large as half a
hen's egg. When this vesicle is opened, the extremity of a white
thread-like worm is perceived, surrounded by a gelatinous fluid. To
remove the disease, the end of the animal is seized, and gradually
wound on a dossil of cotton wool, a few turns being taken daily until
the whole is extracted. It is necessary to proceed thus cautiously;
for, if the animal be broken, it retires to make its appearance at some
other point, when the same steps are to be taken. The animal occa
sionally attains several feet in length, and it causes severe pain to the
patient; a servant on board suffered many weeks from one, which first
made its appearance in the calf of the leg.
The walls of Bombay are about three miles in circumference. The
streets are Macadamized, and cross at irregular angles. The houses
are lofty, many being five or six stories high; and they are built, ge
nerally, in the Portuguese style. The town contains one indiffer
ently kept inn, several churches, two circulating libraries, a company
library, which is a branch of the Asiatic library, and a reading room.
The public buildings are the Town Hall and Mint; the former has a
pretty portico, which is disfigured by a great flight of steps; it stands
on one side of an open square, in the centre of which there is a monu
ment and cenotaph, in comraemoration of Lord Cornwallis, which
receives votive offerings, in the form of garlands and flowers, such
as are given to the deities of the Hindoo system of worship. The
theatre has been recently disposed of, and converted to other pur
poses. The population of the island has been variously estimated; but in
the most recent report we find it set down at 230,000 souls, who oc
cupy 20,786 dwellings, grouped into the several towns designated,
Bombay castle. Dungaree, Mahim, Byculah, and Colabah. But the
following census of 1828, given in the " Asiatic Journal " for March,
1829, will give, probably, a better idea of the varieties of the human
race, living on the island of Bombay.
14

106

POPULATION  COMMERCE*

c
ENSUS
OF the.Island of Bombay.
English
938 Portuguese
8,020'
Parsees
10,738 Jews
1,270
Armenians
39 Moors
25,920
Hindoos
82,592 Mabai's
3,005
Chinese
48 Military
10,000
Floating population, 20,195.
To this is added an Anglo-Asiatic population of pure European de--
scent, estimated at 5,000, including English and Portuguese: there
are no less than nineteen different languages spoken upon this piece
of land, which contains little more than eighteen square miles.
Bombay is the centre of the trade of western India, and is an entre
pot for the countries bordering the Red Sea, the east coast of Africa,
Arabia, the Persian gulf, a large part of the Indian Archipelago and
China. European and American vessels therefore find cargoes here
from the greater part of India, which consist of drugs, spices of va
rious kinds, Batavia and Goa arrack. Cashmere shawls cornelians,
agates, cotton wool, &c., for which the English "Company ships"
and " free-traders '' exchange cotton and other European manufac
tures. The amount of cotton imported into Great Britain from all
India, in 1823, was 180, 233,795 pounds' weight. The export from
Bombay, frora the first of January to the 23rd of October, 1835, was
66,871 candies of 784 lbs. each; equal to 52,426,664 pounds. Of
this 41,100 candies went to Great Britain; 24,565 to China, and 1,206
to France. Perhaps it will not be exceeding the truth to estimate the
export of cotton wool, at 75,000 candies a year.
The chief trade with China is in sandal wood, cotton wool and
sharks' fins, for which teas and Chinese manufactures are returned.
Many fine ships employed in this trade, are owned by Parsees and
native merchants. The extent of the English trade is very great, but
I have no definite data in relation to it.
The trade between Bombay and the United States does not ex
ceed, at present, six or eight vessels a year. They carry out a few
articles of provisions, tobacco, &c., their masters or supercargoes be
ing furnished with letters of credit, which authorize them to draw
bills on London for the amount of funds they may require. They
purchase drugs, elephants' teeth, dried fruits, &c., which find their
way hither in native vessels from the various countries before men
tioned. Large quantities of copal are carried to the United States,
where it is manufactured and again returned in the form of copal var
nish and sold at a large advance.
GOVERN.MENT. 107
The rate of exchange in November, 1835, for bills on London at
six months sight, was two shillings for each rupee, or ten rupees to
the pound sterling, dollars at that time being worth two and a quar
ter rupees each.
Accounts are kept by merchants in rupees, quarters and raes; but
the government keeps its accounts in rupees, annas and pice. The
coins now in circulation, issued from the mint at Bombay, are the
whole, half, and a quarter rupee of silver, and the half and quarter
anna and pice of copper. The relative value of these coins is, as
follows:

5 Raes (an imaginary coin)

—

5 Pice

> make <

16 Annas or 80 pice

100 Reas

400 Reas or 4 quarters
.^
Ii
PiceAnna
Rupee
1 Quarter Rupee
1 Rupee
There is no gold coinage in circulation.
There is a post-office, and a mail carried over the greater part of
India; and recently mails have been sent to Europe in a steamer, up
the Red Sea to Suez, and thence by way of the Mediterranean.
Should this be continued, which is doubtful, it will be the means of
drawing India much nearer to Europe; the average passage from Eng
land to Bombay, by the way of the cape of Good Hope, is 121 days,
but by the new route it may be reduced to forty-five.
" The government of Bombay and its dependencies is by law vested
in a governor and three counsellors, who are, in respect to the native
powers, to levying war, making peace, collecting and applying reve
nues, levying and employing forces, or other matters of civil or military
government, under the control of the governmentgeneral of Bengal ; and
are, in all cases whatever, to obey their orders, unless the court of direc
tors shall have sent any orders repugnant thereto, not known to the go
vernment general, of which, in that case, they are to give the govern
ment general immediate advice. The court of directory appoint the
governor and members of the council, and likewise the commander-
in-chief of the forces: tbe latter is not, ex officio, to be of the coun
cil, but is not disqualified from being so, if the court of directors
shall think fit to appoint him; and, when a member of the council, he
takes precedence of the other counsellors. The civil members are to
be appointed from the list of civil servants, who have resided twelve
years in the service of India. The method of conducting business
at the council board is as follows: — matters propounded by the Pre
sident are first proceeded upon: he may adjourn the discussion of
108 histohicaL sketch of BOMBAY.
questions put by other members of council, but not more than twice.
All orders are expressed as made by the governor in council. The
governor has power to act contrary to the opinions of the other mem
bers of the council, taking upon himself the whole responsibility. On
such extraordinary occasions, the governor and counsellors are to
communicate to each other their opinions and reasons by minutes in
writing, and to meet a second time; if both retain their first opi
nions, the minutes are entered on the consultations, and the orders
of the governor are to be valid, and put in execution."*
The island of Bombay was formerly under the Mogul dominion,
but ceded to the Portuguese in 1530, by whom a fort was erected on
the south-east extremity of the island, its fine harbor indicating it as
a. desirable place for establishing a factory. In 1661, the island was
ceded by Portugal to Great Britain as a portion of the Infanta
Catherine's fortune on her marriage with Charles II. The mor
tality of the king's troops was so great, and there being no advan
tage derived by the crown from the possession of Bombay, the ex
penditure being greater than the receipts. His Majesty, in 1668,
transferred the Island to the Honorable East India Company, in free
and common soccage as the manor of East Greenwich, for which the
East India Company became bound to pay the annual rent of i£10,
in gold, on the SOth September each year. In 1681, Bombay was a
dependency of Sural; but in 1683, it was erected into a Presidency,
and in 1686, became the head station of the company, on the west
ern side of India. Until the beginning of the eighteenth century,
the settlement of Bombay languished, in consequence of the ravages
of the plague and other causes, which induced the Mogul's admiral
to invest it, in 1668, by whom it was very closely pressed, Mahim,
Mazagon and Sion being captured, and the governor and garrison
besieged in the fort. Submission being made to Aurengzebe, he
withdrew his forces from the settlement. In 1776, the island of
Salsette, 18 miles long and 14 broad, was obtained by cession from
the celebrated intriguer Ragoba, or Rogonath Rao, on condition
of restoring him to the supreme power as Peishwa or head of the
Mahratta confederacy.
On the downfal of the Mysore dynasty in the south of India, it
was deemed necessary by the Marquis of Wellesley, to crush the
domineering power of the Mahrattas under Dowlut Rao Sindiah,
Holkar and the Rajah of Berar; and, in the war which followed, the
battle of Assaye, 23d Septepiber, 1803, maybe said to have given
*,Mi)burn's Orieatal Cflmmerce. London, 1825.

extent of the BOMBAY PRESIDENCY. 109
supremacy to the British influence in the west of India. On the ter
mination of hostilities in December, 1803, with Sindiah, the valuable
districts of Broach (1600 square miles) in the province of Guzerat,
having the gulf of Cambay on the west, was ceded to the Bombay
Presidency; as was also the strong fortress of Ahmednuggur, in the
province of Aurungabad, which had been previously captured by
General Wellesley, in August, 1803, with some other places of
minor importance. In 1816, Mandavie, the chief sea port of Cutch,
latitude 22° 50' north, longitude 69° 33' east, together with Angar,
were ceded by the governing power to the East India company, and
placed under the sway of the Bombay Presidency.
The ambitious and treacherous designs of the Peishwa in 1817,
against the British, by whom he had been elevated to power and
supported in his dominions so long, was the means of extending yet
more the territories under the Bombay Presidency, The war waged
by the Marquis of Hastings, against the Mahrattas and Pindarics, set
tled the fate of western India, and in 1818, the northern and south
ern Concan, 12,270 square miles; Kandeish, 12,430 square miles;
Poonah, 20,870 square miles; Dharwar, 9,950 square miles, and
various territories, &c., in Guzerat, became the dominions of the
British in India; the whole of the Bombay Presidency now forming
an area of 64,938 square miles, and a population of upwards of
seven millions of souls.
The northern and southern Concan, forming the more southern
sea-coast territories of the Bombay Presidency, extend along shore
from Dumaun to Malabar, about 220 miles by 35 miles inland, em
bracing an erea of 12,270 square miles, and presenting a congeries
of steep rocky mountains, rising iu some places to the height of from
2000 to 4000 feet, as abrupt as a wall, while most part of the
table land, to the eastward, is of difficult, if not of impracticable
access for wheeled carriages. The Ghant in general gradually de-
cHnes towards the sea, possessing in some places fertile rice tracts,
irrigated by numerous mountain streams. The coast is indented
with small bays and shallow harbors or coves, with rocks, ravines and
chasms; the island of Bombay containing 18i square miles, including
Colabah and Old Woman's Island, being liltie more than a cluster,
or double bank of once detached whinstone rocks, through which the
sea and Goper river flowed, but of which, the retreating ocean, from
the western side of India, has now permitted the consolidation into an
islet, by means of two sand -belts at the northern and southern ex
tremity of each ledge of rocks, and these natural causeways, now
changing into rock, are rendered more secure by the construction of

110 BOMBAY PRESIDENCY.
artificial dams, by which, at spring tides, the ingress of the sea is
prevented. There are no rivers of magnitude on the Concan coast.
When ceded to the British, in 1818, almost every hiH had a fortifica
tion, and every rock of an inaccessible nature a fortress, all of which
are now rapidly crumbling into decay.
The districts of Sural, 1850 square miles; of Broach, 1600; of Ah-
medabad, 4600; ofKaira, 1380 square miles, all in the province of
Guzerat, cover an extensive portion of wild sea-coast, as well as hilly,
jungly and mountai;ious country, with many fertUe tracts, cultivated
and waste, watered by several noble rivers, such as the Nerbudda,
Taptee, Mahy, Mehindry and Sabernutty; but not available for
commerce Hke the Ganges. The Bombay government possesses
a political control in the rich mineral provinces of Cutch, a district
abounding in coal and iron, and evidently indebted for its origin to
a volcanic eruption at some distant period.
The north-west quarter of the ancient district of India, termed the
Deccan, is under the administration of Bombay, and affords in its
general features, a complete resemblance to the European kingdom
of Hungary, and like the latter, though of exceeding fertility in
some places, yet in many parts, owing to the mountainous and rocky
nature of the country, it is exceedingly barren.
The collectorates of Poonah and Ahmednugger, embrace an area
of 20,870 square miles, of an irregular country; elevated 2000 feet
above the level of the sea, intersected by many rivers and streams,
flowing through the most lovely valleys that the sun ever shone on,
overtopped by hills 1000 feet high, of the trap formation, with the
scarped summits pecuHar to that species of mountain, and crowned
by natural fortresses of a highly picturesque aspect.
Candeish, another British district in the Deccan, of 12,430 square
miles in extent, is an extensive, fertile and well-watered place; in
terspersed with low barren hills, at the base of which run numerous,
ever purling, limpid rivulets, flowing from the table land into the
Taptee: a large extent of country is still under jungle. The only
remaining territories of the Bombay Presidency are the collectorates
of Dharwar, Sattarah and the southern Jagheers containing 9,950
square miles, situated in the south-west quarter of the Deccan.
The western districts in the vicinity of the Ghauts are extremely
rugged; the eastern tracts are less Alpine, affording more level
country where the rocks, which in some places stud the surface, are
buried in a rich black mould. The Ghauts along this district are
not so much broken into masses, but present to the view continuous
lines of mountainous forests; and along the course of the principal

STIPENDIARY PRINCES OF BRITISH INDIA. Ill
rivers, Keishtla, Toombuddra, Beema, and Gutpurba, the country is
exceedingly rich and picturesque.
It will be seen from the foregoing, that a large portion of the Bri
tish dominions in the east is made up of the possessions of princes^
who, either themselves or their descendants, now enjoy stipends paid
to thein out of the public revenues. These princes first became con^
nected with the English by subsidiary alliances and ceded territo
ries, in return for military protection — others lost their dominions by
the chances of war, while some territorities were taken under control
from the absolute incapacity of the rulers, or their tyranny, which,
in mercy to the unhappy sufferers, the English, (kind souls,) could no
longer permit to exist. The princes of the first and last classes are
formally installed on the Musnud, allowed to exercise sovereignty
over the tenants on their household lands — they are exempted from
the jurisdiction of the British courts of law, have their own civil and
military functionaries, with all the insignia of state, and a British
Envoy usually resident at their court, whose duties chiefly relate to
their pecuniary affairs, or the ceremonies of sovereignty. The fol
lowing is an abstract, in round numbers, of their stipends.

When granted.

Titles of Princes.

stipend in Rupees.'

1803

Emperor of Delhi and Family,

15,00,000

1801

Soubahdar of the Carnatic,

11,65,400

Families of former Soubahdars,

9,00,000

1798

Rajah of Tanjore,

11,83,500

1770

Soubahdar of Bengal,

16,00,000

Families of former — ditto.

9,00,000

1793

Rajah of Benares,

1,43,000

1799

Family of Hyder Ally and Tippoo,

6,39,549

Rajahs of Malabar,

2,50,000

1818

Bajee Row,

8,00,000

1818

Chimnajee Appah,

2,00,000

Vinaeck Row,
7,50,000
Zoolfikur All,
4,00,000
Himmut Bahudoor's descendants.
60,000
Benaeck Row and Seeta Baee
2,50,000
Gevind Row of Calpee,
1,00,000
Nawab of Masulipatam, Total Rupees,
2i rupees per dollar.
50,000
1,08,91,449
Or, at the rate of:
^4,840,644
* One hundred thousand make a lac, and the table is pointed in accordance
with this mode of reckoning.
112

BRITISH INDIA.

Neariy one half of the East Indian territory is held by govern
ments in subsidiary alliances with the British government, the gene
ral terms of the treaties with whom, are, on the side of the English,
protection against external enemies, and on the other, a submitting
in all political relations with foreign states, to the arbitration and
final adjudication of the British government; a specific force is fur
nished by the East India Company, and a territory equivalent to the
maintenance of the troops ceded by the former. The subsidizing
state is also bound to keep on foot a specific contingent force to act
in subordinate co-operation with the subsidiary. The protecting
power is not to interfere with the internal arrangements of the pro
tected states, but, in cases of exigency, it reserves the right, in gene
ral, to assume the whole of the resources of the protected state. The
subsidiary force is liable to be called out to protect the legal succes
sion to power, but not to be employed between the head of the go
vernment and its zemindars, or chiefs.
The following is given as a list of the Princes, the military protec
tion of whose territories is undertaken by the British government.
Princes. Their Capitals. Territory in Sq. Miles.
King of Oude Lucknow 25,300
Soubahdar of the Deccan Hydrabad 108,800
H. H. the Quikwar Baroda 36,000
Sindia and others Gualior 42,400
Holkar and others Indore 17,600
Rajah of Nagpore Nagpore 62,270
Ras of Cutch Bhooj 6,100
Rajah of Mysore Mysore 29,750
Rajah of Travancore Travancore -f
Rajah of Cochin Cochin 5
Total population, 15,000,000,

9,400

Two of the foregoing (Oude and Mysore) can scarcely be styled
stipendiary, the former being almost entirely dependent on -the Bri
tish government, and the latter recently ordered under the direct
management of the Madras Presidency, owing to long misgovern-
ment. The charges include revenue collection, political, judicial and
police, maintenance of provincial battalions, customs, mint, &c. The
balance remaining after these deducHons, go to the purpose for which
the territories were granted,— namely, the military protection of the
government which assigned them.
Besides the foregoing governmeuts, tliere are several minor prin-

FEUDATORY CHIEFS. 113
cipalities with whom engagements or treaties have been entered into,
agreeably to the peculiar circumstances of each, but with general sti
pulations applicable to all; namely, that the protected state maintain
no correspondence of a political tendency with foreign powers with
out the privity or consent of the India government, to whom the ad
justment of its political differences is to be referred: they are per
fectly independent in their internal rule, but acknowledge the supre
macy of the India Government, when the interests of both powers
are concerned: the troops of the protected state act in the field in su
bordinate co-operation to the British forces, the latter being empowered
to avail themselves of natural or other advantages, in the allied coun
try, against an enemy when necessary. No asylum for criminals or
defaulters is to be afforded, but every facility given to effect their ap
prehension in the state. Europeans not to be employed without British
permission. According to the resources of the protected state, a tribute
is required, or a military contingent to be kept in readiness, or service
to be rendered according to the means of the protected power. The
states thus protected, but without subsidiary aUiances, are, 1. Slccim
and the Sikh and Hill states; 2. The Rajpoot states; 3. Jaut and other
states on the right bank of the Jumna; 4. Boondelah states; 5. States
in Malwa; 6. States in Guzerat; 7. States on the Malabar coast;
and 8. The Burmese frontier.
States not under the British protection, are Scindia, the Rajah
Dholapore, Barree, and Rajah Kera, (formerly Ranee of Gohud) Run-
geet Sing of Lahore, the Ameers of Scind, and the Rajah of Ne-
paul. The British Feudatory Chiefs, so far differ from the former class,
that while the protected chiefs had treaties concluded with them as
independent powers, the feudatory have had their allegiance trans
ferred to Great Britain by their feudal superiors, or by the event of
war. In most cases the lands which they held as a life tenure, have
been converted by the India government into a perpetuity, and the
chiefs are permitted a supreme control on their own lands. Amono*
the number of these chiefs, may be mentioned the Putwardhun family,
of which there are nine chiefs— the Soubahdar of Jansi, chief of Ja-
loun and Calpee, family of Angria (the Mahratta pirate,) numerous
tributaries in Kattywar and in Guzerat, tlie Rajahs of Shorapoor and
Gudwal, the Seedee of Jinjeera and other Abyssinian chiefs. Inde
pendent of these states the East India company's government have
treaties with other surrounding nations; viz. with Persia the Compa
ny are in alliance, and have a resident at the court of the sovereign.

114

POPULATION OF THE BOMBAY PRESIDENCY.

With Cochin China, Siam, Caubul, Nepaul, and Ava, the intercourse
of the company is principally of a commercial nature, but they have
residents stationed at Nepaul and Ava; with the Sultan of Muscat,
and with other chiefs on the western shores of the Persian gulf, the
Company have treaties for commercial purposes, and with a view to
the suppression of the slave trade, and of piracy in the gulf. In or
der to secure the fulfilment of these treaties, the Company have esta
blished political agents on the shores of the Persian and Arabian
gulfs. Before closing the subject, it may be desirable to mention an inde
pendent chief of great talent, wealth and power, with whom the Bri
tish government is on terms of friendly alliance; I allude to Runjeet,
or Ranajit Sing, whose country includes not only what is called the
Punjaub, and the whole of the lovely and important valley of Cash
mere, but also considerable tracts of territory beyond the Indus, from
Tatta in the south, to Thibet on the north, and from Caubul on the
west to beyond the Sutlej on the east. This formidable potentate pos
sesses an army of six thousand regular cavalry, forty-three thousand
three hundred irregular horse, twenty-three thousand infantry, orga
nized and commanded by Frenchmen, several excellent brigades of
horse, (fifty-eight guns,) and foot (one hundred and forty-two,) artd-
lery; nine mortars; 305 swivel guns on camels; 108 guns in different
forts; an immense arsenal at Amritsir, and a vast treasury (his annual
revenue in rupees 18,000,000) at Govind Garrow.*
Census of the Bombay presidency, from a table of statistics of the
Deccan by Lieutenant Colonel Sykes, and other documents laid
before Parliament.

Colleclorates.

Square Miles.

No. of Villages.

Houses.

Populatiou.

Bombay,

18

20,786

230,000

rPoonah,

8,281

1,897

114,887

558,313

jj Ahmednuggur,

9,919

2,465

136,273

666,376

g , Khandeish,
^ "^ Darwar,

12,527

2,738

120,822

478,457

9,122

2,491

187,222

838,575

Q S. Jaglieerdars,

2,9786,169 6,7705,5001,449

917

778,183 736,284 656,857387,264454,431

1,7032 240

Surat, &c.
655
108,150
Broach,
1,357
400
55,549
239,527
Ahmedabad,
4,072
728
175,926
528,073
Kaira,
1,827
579
127,201
484,735
Total population of the Bombay Presidency,
? The New Bombay Directory, for 1836.
7,037,075
BRITISH INDIA. 1J5
In the Deccan, which includes an area of 48,987 square miles, and
a population of 3,285,985, the average number of mouths to the square
mile is 67.08, and the proportion of males to females about 100 to 86;
the Mussulmans form only from 6 to 8 per cent, of the whole popula
tion, the Mahrattas from 60 to 70 per cent., the Brahmins from 5 to
10 per cent., the Rajpoots from 3 to 6 per cent, and out-castes, &c.,
from 9 to 10 per cent.*
The government of the Bombay Presidency, and of British India
in general, it is asserted, is administered with benevolent mildness
and equal justice; and the native subjects enjoy greater security in
their property and citizen rights and privileges than they did previ
ous to the conquest. In the present day, there are few who have
reason to complain of the severity of the government, whatever may
be their treatment by private British residents. Various evidence
may be gathered from the " Asiatic Journal " that the English adven
turers in India, who have embarked upon their own resources, are
not all members of the moral and respectable classes which distin
guish their mother land. They are complained of as rapacious, cruel,
and insubordinate, particularly in those sections of country wherein
indigo is cultivated. Indeed, were we to look at those districts alone,
we might question whether the condition of the mass of population
has been improved by the change of rulers; the yoke of Britain bears
almost as heavily as that of their former princes. It must be borne
in mind that the natives, however capable they may be, are not eli
gible to any very important oflice under the government. In fact,
the best educated and the most influential amongst them are merely
used as convenient instruments to collect revenue for the British;
particularly in those provinces which are tributary to the govern
ment. We might ask whether it would not be sound policy, as well as
justice, to make the natives feel it their interest to support the go
vernment, and teach them, that upon its stability must depend their
hopes and fortunes. " I cannot comprehend how giving men those
interests in the state, without which no state can have anyreal value
in their eyes, can increase their wish, any more than their power, to
destroy it. I have heard of common sailors making off with the ship
and cargo, but never of the proprietor joining in such an act. I
never heard even of an Irish gentleman robbing himself and running
away."t * The New Bombay Directory, for 1836. -j- Curran.

116 BBITISH INDIA.
The facts connected with the rise and progress of the British do
minion in the east must fill with admiration those who will contem
plate them. From a charter of exclusive trade, first given in the
year 1600, to a few " merchant traders," which was renewed from
time to time, has risen an empire of almost indefinite extent, and in
which, with great reason, the English glory not a little. Of the
wrongs and insults heaped upon the Asiatics, by the British, in their
many conquests; of the cunning policy they pursued, and of the
many instances of treachery practised by them, it is not our purpose
to speak. The ends may justify the means; or, we will be satisfied
by being told that necessity was, on all occasions, the reason for cul
pable acts, though an elegant writer assures us, ihut necessity is urged
as the excuse and apology of tyrants for their vilest deeds. Let them
boast, with the Marquis of Hastings, that " The influence and autho
rity of the British nation extend from Ceylon to the mountains which
border upon China, and from the confines of Ava to those of Persia,
over ninety millions of subjects."* In the new world we envy them
not their power nor possessions in the east. On the contrary, we
wish them success in teaching the creed of political liberty to the ori
ental world, equal to that which crowned their efforts in the west.
And may few centuries roll away, ere knowledge and Christianity
elevate the debased Asiatics to the exalted level of their British
rulers, and enable them to enjoy rational liberty, without subsidizing
foreign troops to protect them from themselves If The dominion of
the British in India may be contemplated in the light of a political
mission, sent with the benevolent purpose of disseminating true
knowledge, and of teaching how men may enjoy most freedom at the
least cost of feeling and treasure. To this it will come in the end.
And then may England be as proud of this child as she now ought
to be of the United States, the most precocious of her offspring. Let
a free and well conducted press pour forth its fertilizing streams of
knowledge upon the fallow mind of the vast multitude, and they will
acquire that love of free agency which God has planted in the human
heart, and soon rally round a flag that promises to lead them to inde
pendence of the foreign yoke whieh now represses their best ener
gies. The time may come, however distant it may appear, when
both insular and continental India will be free and independent;
but that time cannot arrive until the mysterious and superstitious
• Crawfiird's Embassy to Siam and Cochin China.
t Vide, Sir John Malcolm's Political History of India,

ST. Thomas' oiiuKCH. II7
rites of the Boudhist, or Hindoo and Mohammedan creeds shall have
faded away before the lights of Christianity and true knowledge.
Christian missionaries are sowing now the seed which will produce a
harvest of worldly freedom, if not " crowns of glory and mansions in
the sky."
There are several circumstances which are tending to the amelio
ration of India. Education is as freely and as extensively imparted
to the people as possible; but the country is drained, or rather
draining of money constantly, by those who accumulate wealth here
to spend in England, which will lead the Company to give up their
charter, and it will be found that the dominion of India will not be
worth the cost of preserving. It is beyond our means to estimate
the amount of money annually sent from India to England, to pay the
numerous pensions and the allotments of those in active service, for
the support of their families at home. The country must feel effects
similar to those experienced under the absentee system in Ireland;
and it can be no pleasing reflection to philanthropic England to think
that the country containing 100,000,000 of inhabitants is poorer this
day, than -^faeH it was before she swayed its destinies.

CHAPTER XII.

SKETCHES IN HINDOOSTAN.

November, 1835.
On the first day of November, being Sunday, we visited St. Tho
mas's church. It contains within its walls some pretty monuments,
erected to the memories of individuals who have ended their days in
India. Lines of punkas, or great fans, suspended frora the ceiling,
were moving to and fro to cool the worshipful and worshipping con
gregation, who sat in ornamented and cushioned pews; entirely for
getting, we thought, that commandment, which inculcates keeping
holy the Sabbath-day. Hindoos were on the outside of the temple.

118 rides about BOMBAY.
pulling cords, which, passing througb the walls, are attached to the
punkas, and thus out of sight, managed to keep up a circulation of air.
This is certainly a luxury at prayer; but does it square with keep
ing holy the Sabbath day, in which " thou shalt do no manner of
work; thou, nor thy son, nor thy daughter, thy man-servant nor thy
maid-servant, thy cattle nor the stranger that is within thy gates."
How can vve expect Hindoos, or others, to abandon the creeds of their
fathers, to embrace that of Christianity, while they see nominal
Christians, performing merely the ceremonies of the religion which
they urge upon them, and at the same time, even in the very temple,
disregarding one of its chief precepts. These poor Hindoos cannot
be so low in intellect, as to be uninfluenced by example.
To use a technical phrase, there is " quite a revival " in religious
matters at Bombay: religion, morality, and temperance are the order
of the day; and if their precepts be observed, we should hope there
from a happy result.
After the sermon, which was so wretchedly delivered that we
would not undergo a similar infliction, the parson published the banns
between a spinster and a bachelor. Beyond these, I observed nothing
essentially different frora what we are accustomed to see in churches
of similar denomination in our own country. The salary of the mi
nister is 14,400 rupees, or $6,400 per annum, which, if the situation
were open to competition, should secure, with equal nicety, better ta
lent than has fallen to the lot of the present incumbent. This is
one of many of the improprieties of the onerous church system
of England, which is carried out and kept up, throughout her im
mense dominions, without much regard to expediency.
The rides about Bombay are pleasant, and offer to the stranger an
endless variety of subjects for remark. One afternoon we rode out
to Nonparel, to see the country residence of a well known Parsee
merchant. We passed out of Church gate, upon an open common
or esplanade of a mile or more in extent. To the right, were nume
rous tents, belonging to the officers of the native regiments, and to
the left, bungalows or permanent tents, surrounded by small gardens,
tenanted by officers and their families. At the hour of five o'clock
P. M. every day, the road is crowded with equipages of all kinds,
hurrying to the country, or simply for a drive before dinner, the usual
hour for which is seven o'clock.
The first vehicle we passed was a buggy, in which sat two Parsees,
and at their feet a Hindoo driver, who ever and anon cried " paish "
to some pedestrian, or water-carrier, loaded with two bright copper

equipages  COSTUME OF FEMALES. 119
vessels of water, suspended within a foot of the ground by cords
from the ends of a bamboo, which was balanced over the shoulder.
Then the poor fellow, entirely naked, except the langoty, (a string
tied about the hips to support a delantal, in front;) bent forward and
with an effort, hurried out of the way to one side of the path. The
collarless white muslin frock, reaching to the knee, over short white
pantaloons; the long sharp-toed slipper; the high, purple or choco
late-colored cap, figured with white flowers, the lofty bearing and
mustached upper Hp which characterize the Parsee; the skull cap,
white frock, the Hght white drawers, and dark skin which mark the
Hindoo driver, contrast curiously in the stranger's eye, with the
English harness and vehicle in whicb they ride.
Next came a barouche, containing four English ladies, driven by
Hindoos, and behind stood two Hindoo footmen in red frocks. This
dashing equipage was followed by a crazy old gig crowded by three
sleek Banyans in red turbans. Then we met a cart, drawn by water-
buffaloes, bearing a hogshead which poured water into a trough be
hind, pierced with holes, frora which it issued in numerous threads,
to lay the dust, which otherwise would make riding any thing but
agreeable. Numerous Hindoo females, in a sort of spencer, closely fitted over
the breast, with tight sleeves, reaching half way to the elbow, and a
calico cloth of dark color, wrapped twice round the body, falling in
full drapery about the limbs, and the end passed backwards under
one arm, then over the shoulders so as to cover the head, were seen
picking up buffalo dung, which is dried and used for fuel. The
females, who are the hewers of wood and drawers of water in India,
are seen along the road, engaged in the most laborious employments.
Some are bearing great jars of water on the head; some, baskets of
fish; some are sweeping the road, and others more distant from the
town, are reaping grass. Notwithstanding their menial occupations,
like the Jewish damsels of old, they display a fondness for flowing
robes and tinkling ornaments; almost all wearing bangles of white
metal upon their ankles, glass rings upon their arms, ear-rings and
nose jewels.* They are occasionally seen, however, with the dress
* There are many things seen every day in the East to remind us of the de
scriptions, and of the allusions to ancient manners and customs, to be found in
the sacred wi'itings. Isaiah tells us. Chapter III., that "Because the daughters
of Zion are haughty, and walk with stretched-forth necks and wanton eyes,
walking and mincing as they go, and making a tinkling with their feet," the
Lord will smite them. " In that day the Lord will take away the bravery of

120 DUNGAREE.
or robe tucked lightly between the limbs, the legs bare above the
knee, and the bosom scarcely hidden, offering no very attractive
sight to the recently arrived European of either sex.
When we had nearly crosed the esplanade, we came up to a tank
or great well, surrounded by men and women; some were pounding
clothes with stones to make them clean; some were scouring their
copper water vessels, and others filling them. Some were moving
away and others arriving; and as often as I passed the spot, whether
in the morning or at the close of the day, the same scene was pre
sented. We entered the town of Dungaree, which being inhabited by
Asiatics, is par excellence usually called the " native town." The
streets were alive with people of every caste, male and female, old
and young. Here we met two-wheeled vehicles, called hackeries,
cro'wded with natives, or rather Asiatics, drawn by buffaloes, whose
horns were ornaraented with red paint. One of these hackeries, con
sisted of a platform of straw, above the wheels and extended beyond
them, upon which sat the passengers a la Turque; another, was a kind
of cart with a small triangular body, shut in by curtains, and generally
occupied by females. Besides the laboring women already mentioned,
we occasionally met females of a better order, attired in bright co
lored silk robes, but barefoot, and loaded with " tinkling ornaments "
on the ankles and rings on the toes.
The houses are ancient in appearance, and disfigured by small
wooden verandas, and pieces of wood, painted red and blue, jutting
from the walls. The roofs are of red tiles. The order of architec
ture is a non descript, partaking something of the Portuguese. The
larger dwellings are three or more stories high, and have some claims
to style. But altogether the scene at Dungaree is too complicated in
its dramatis personse for successful description. The strange costume
of the females, and their unbecoming employments; the absence of
costume in the males; the variety of equipages; the runners trotting
ahead of the horses, like pioneers to clear the way; the incessant
cries of " paish;" the hackeries and the watering carts; buffaloes
laden v/ith skins of water, following its venders; Bramhiin priests in
their tinkling ornaments about their feet, and their cauls, and their round tires
like the moon; the chains, and the bracelets, and the mufflersi the bonnets, and
the ornaments of the legs, and the head-bands, and the tablets, and the ear-rings;
the rings, and nose-jewels; the changeable suits of apparel, and the mantles, and
the wimples, and the crisping pins; the glasses, and the fine linen, and the hoods,
and the veils."

SCENES IN DUNGAREE  NONPAREL. 121
yellow robes; naked devotees smeared over with clay or dust; occa
sional droves of long horned, lazily moving buffaloes; all these, min
gle in streams, setting in opposite directions through the almost
endless street of Dungaree, and put description at defiance. There
is no grandeur, nothing that recalls to mind those pictures of eastern
magnificence which are so apt to seize upon the imagination and
dwell in the memory. On the contrary, the scene is of poverty and
wretchedness, brought into strong relief by the occasional appearance
of the equipage of some dashing English nabob and his flaunting
liveries. Whatever may be the elegance and condition of society
among the English conquerors in the east, there can be little doubt,
that the mass of the people are poor and miserably wretched, if they
possess one single spark of that feeling, which we are accustomed to
consider as a common attribute of humanity. Where the officers of
the government, whether civil or military, in spite of their extrava
gant salaries, manage to get plunged into debt, a man must suffer for
the comraon comforts of life who receives at most the paltry pittance
of two or three rupees, less than a dollar and a half a raonth, which
is true in the case of the common laborers. Yet they do exist on a
little curried rice and fish. Clothing they have little, nor do they
seem to desire more. In most instances their dwellings are sorry
hovels, scarcely adequate to shelter pigs, at least in the rainy season.
Can energy of character be looked for amongst a people so badly fed
and so poorly lodged? The Sepoys employed by the Honorable
Company, receive seven rupees (three dollars and ten cents) a month,
out of which they are obliged to supply themselves with uniforms.
Continuing our ride, we passed a long row of coppersmiths' shops,
and about five miles from Bombay, the church of Bycullah, the resi
dence of a greater part of the American missionaries. Two miles
farther brought us to the house of our Parsee friend, situated near
Nonparel, a dwelling, or palace of the governor of Bombay. Our
friend's retreat consists of two buildings. One is about one hundred
feet long by forty broad, and is one story high. It forms a long sa
loon, with a tesselated marble floor, having a range of dormitories on
one side. In the centre is a divan, and around the walls are nume
rous sofas, mirrors, and lamps. The other building is two stories
high, almost as large, and stands at right angles with the first; so that
a broad veranda is continuous along the back of the first and in front
of the last. From its ceiling are suspended many lamps, for which
articles every body in Bombay seems to have great admiration. The
second story is handsomely furnished with pier-tables, mirrors, sofas,
16

122 HINDOO TEMPLE  DEVOTEE.
and a fine carpet. To this establishment are attached a garden, sta
bles, coach houses, &c., in keeping with the whole. In the neighbor
hood are several other mansions, greater in extent and much more
magnificent in every respect.
In one of our rides we stopped at the entrance of a Hindoo tem
ple, in the middle of the town of Dungaree, into which crowds of
natives were entering, being a holiday, in consequence of an eclipse
of the sun. We passed through a small gate, and found ourselves
in an area, enclosing a square tank, each side of which was about a
hundred yards long. On one side was a broad pavement, and on its
margin next the water were two white square pillars, twenty-five or
thirty feet high; on the left was a row of low huts, containing idols,
into which we were not allowed to enter. One of these idols was a
three-headed black bust, which a Hindoo told me was "God Al
mighty," and another next to it, was " God Almighty number two."
In front of the first was an image of the Niindee, represented lying
down. I gave the man a piece of silver, which he immediately be-
¦stowed into the hands of an officiating priest for the latter.
The air was filled with pigeons flying to and fro, alighting occa
sionally on the temples; but they were evidently alarmed at the din
caused by a concourse of men and women, plunging and splashing
in the tank, for the purpose of ablution, believing that an eclipse ren
ders them unclean, and during its continuance they observe a rigid
fast. Many resort to the sea, which they think is equally efficacious
in removing the impurities to which they deem themselves subject.
At the end of the pavement, opposite to that at which we entered,
was a sort of hut, covered with branches and thatch, beneath which
sat a Bramhun devotee. Excepting a very small allowance of lango-
tee, he was entirely naked. His hair, beard and face were matted
and smeared with mud, and his body and limbs covered with dust.
He appeared to be sixty years of age, and looked more the demon
than the saint. His left arm was shrivelled and bent at the elbow,
and on the outspread palm, which was turned upwards, rested an
earthen pot, in which was growing a small plant. Around it were
placed sticks; a wooden spoon to receive alms was secured across it,
and a string of brass bells ornamented the bottom. The whole was
attached to the hand by a cotton bandage. The devotee was sprightly.
He has a pair of cunning dark eyes, and his face is free from that sul
lenness of expression, which, in general, distinguishes religious en
thusiasts. He reports that he has held the flower-pot, in the position
aboye described, for twenty-five years; nor has he in that time, cut

THE HINDOOS' DESIRABLE ST.\TE. 123
either his hair, his beard, or his nails. By the practice of such aus
terities he hopes to attain absorption into nature, the perfection of
Hindoo beatitude, while he secures in this, world the respect and ho
mage of all who approach his temple. The finger nails were very
long and twisted like rams' horns. I attempteil to measure that of
the thumb, but he would not allow me to touch it, but permitted a
Bramhun to do so for me. It was ten inches and three-quarters in
length. I bestowed a piece of silver in the alms' spoon, for which he
returned thanks, or perhaps invoked Shivii's blessing.
To attain a state of perfect apathy of the feelings and of the pas
sions is the great aim of the Hindoo devotee. A gentleraan told me,
that one of these wretches, who was entirely naked in the street, was
pointed out to hira by a native triumphantly, as the most pious man
in India; because, forsooth, he was so destitute of shame, that cover
ing for his body was rejected; the earth was his bed, the sky his ca
nopy, and the food he consumed was bestowed in charity — " But,"
inquired my informer," suppose the charitable were to refuse to feed
him, what would he then do?"
" That is supposing an impossibility, for no man would so far risk
offending the gods as to refuse his mite to a Bramhun so truly pious."
A few yards farther on, was another devotee, smeared with mud,
but of not more than thirty years of age. He was standing near a
fire, resting one foot on a stone, and blowing a great conch-shell
trumpet. His swelled cheeks, and red, starting eyes; his posture,
the fire and the crowd standing near, dappled with the light of the
flame, for it was now past sunset, and they were lighting up the tem
ples; the almost deafening roar around us, added to a horrible stench,
rendered the whole scene more Hke what one would imagine pande
monium to be, than a temple of worship. Every moment seemed to
increase the crowd and the noise, and we quitted the orgies in feel
ings of deep disgust.

124 tEVEE  MISSIONARIES.

CHAPTER XIII.
SKETCHES IN HINDOOSTAN.

November, 1835.

On the 17th of November, we attended the levee of the Governor,
Sir Robert Grant, held at the town hall, where we saw a number of
the officers of the army and navy. At two P. M. the native offi
cers were received separately, this part of the presentation being
what is termed a " durbar." The ceremony was an agreeable sight,
from the variety of handsome uniforms present on the occasion.
On the t-wentieth we attended, by invitation, an examination of the
native female schools, under the superintendence of the American
mission, and under the immediate care of Miss Farrar. We arrived
about ten o'clock A. M. Many English ladies, and several officers
of the civil service bad already assembled. Notwithstanding an
eclipse of the sun, which, it was feared, might cause parents to retain
their children at home, not less than a hundred and fifty little girls
of from six to twelve years of age, and of different castes, were pre
sent. The native teachers, who are of all castes, were in their best
attire. One of them, a Banyan, wore a red turban composed of a
bandage or fillet two inches wide; the turns of which, after covering
the top of the head, were laid one over the other sixty times, like a
riband, so as to form a rim three inches wide, which set diagonally on
tbeTiead. A yellow silk robe, hung full from the hips, like a petti
coat about the legs, and a red Cashmere shawl, worth perhaps one
hundred dollars, was folded square over the shoulders. A pair of
very broad-toed red slippers completed this truly picturesque cos
tume of the pedagogue, who bore no resemblance to the severe,
black-coated gentry of the tribe who were wont, in old times, to in
fuse at once, terror and learning by the use of the birch.
Besides Europeans, several Hindoos, and one old Mohammedan,
but none of the parents of the children, were present. The Asiatics

AN EXAMINATION OF A MISSIONARY SCHOOL. 125
manifested very little interest in the examination; what their opinions
were on the subject, I did not ascertain.
The children were strikingly different, in appearance, from any
I have before seen collected on similar occasions. Their complex
ions were from the Hght yellow brunette of the Parsee, approach
ing to white, to the almost black of the Hindoo castes. Their heads
were remarkably small, and many were nearly naked; while others
were gaily dressed and decorated with bracelets, bangles, ear-rings,
nose-jewels, finger-rings and toe-rings of gold or silver. Many
wore bright colored silks, richly embroidered; but one Httle girl of
eight years old, who was very small for that age, drew our attention
on account of her costume. It consisted of a blue satin spencer,
almost hidden in gold needlework, and a silk petticoat, between the
top of which and the bottora of the spencer, were disclosed two inches
of naked skin. Rings of gold encircled her wrists and ankles, as
well as every finger and toe, to say nothing of those which were
pendent from her ears and nose. In addition, a silk mantle or scarf
was flung negligently over the shoulders.
The little girls commenced the exercises by singing a hymn in
tlie Hindoostanee language; after which they read in classes, and
readily replied to the questions put to them. Some read short de
scriptions of animals, represented on cards. Their needle-work was
exhibited and praised by the ladies present. The examination ter
minated very satisfactorily, and I was fully impressed, that the plan
of educating native females must succeed, and, in the course of time,
be attended with very beneficial results throughout India.
The great obstacles against which the missionaries have to contend,
are the prejudices of caste. These are incredibly strong. Those of
different castes will not, on any account, eat with each other, and
the exercise of humanity and benevolence is confined to the dis
tressed of their own respective sect exclusively: their charity begins
at home, and generally ends where it began. The following anec
dote, extracted from the " Bombay Gazette " for February 25th, 1835,
is sufficiently illustrative of this inhuman prejitdice.
"On Thursday last the remains of a Brahmin woman were dis
covered at Mahim by the offensive smell coming from a house by the
side of the public road. On examination, it was found to be a wo
man, from forty to fifty years of age, who had Hved at Mahim for
several years, and was known by the people of the place to have
been for a long time in indigent circumstances. The neglectedstate
the house was found in, and every thing about it, showed the greatest

126 MISSIONARIES.
wretchedness and privation. The deceased being a Bhutnee Brah
min, and subsisting on charity, her not being seen for several days,
did not attract any attention, and when discovered the features were
scarcely recognisable.
" It was said, she was an out-cast from her own tribe, on account
of her having, after the death of her husband, married a Mussulman,
and to this was attributed her state of destitution."
I have long entertained the opinion, that the little success attend
ing the missionary labors iu general, is owing to the demonstration
of too much religious zeal on their part, without any attempt to show
the worldly advantages attending on a full belief in christian doc
trines. Greater success might be anticipated, if the minds of the mis
believers were first prepared by instruction in general knowledge, be
fore attempting to convince them of the religious errors in which they
live. We are not aware of more than three or four distinguished in
stances of conversion to Christianity, effected by missionaries, where
the individuals have been through the remainder of their lives intrinsi
cally pious. Next to the. love of his native home, there is nothing a
savage or heathen entertains so strongly in his bosom as his religion,
no matter what may be its tenets. It seems plausible to suppose,
that a man must be first capable of appreciating positive facts before
he can comprehend abstract truth; therefore, his prejudices may be
most readily removed by such knowledge as will lead the mind to a
contemplation of things beyond the immediate vicinity of his home;
things which may be turned to account in this world of ours. I am
happy to find, that Major General Sir John Malcolm has expressed a
similar opinion. " It appears, however, to be generally admitted by
the most able as well as pious of their members, that no rational hope
can be entertained of success in propagating Christianity until a
foundation has been first laid by a more general diffusion of knowledge.
This conviction has been acted on for the last twelve years."*
The present plan of instructing native female children, and for the
execution of which Miss Farrar is entitled to high praise, is judicious.
It is to tbe influence of woman that most systems of religion owe
their propagation; France is indebted to Clotilda- the wife of Clovis for
the establishment of Christianity in her dominion. Though woman
be lauded for her sweetness, her docility, her capability of accommo
dating herself to all circumstances and assuming every tone, we must
not always expect to find her all complaisance, all submission, and in
* The Political History of India. London, 1826.

MISSIONARIES. 127
all obedient; on the contrary, it is a part of her nature to resist con
trol, to dispute empire with an obstinacy proportioned to her means,
and sometimes against all reason — Ce qu'une femme veut, Dieu le
veut — therefore, let the women once enlist fairly in the cause, which
is their own, for Christianity is the only religion which places them
upon an equality with men, and the creeds of Bramhii will fall be
fore the advancing of the cross.
In a very few years, by education, females must be raised from the
abject condition of being the hewers of wood and drawers of water
to a level with, if not superior to their lords and masters. Children
will receive instruction from their mothers, and grow up free in a
measure at least, from the besetting and blighting prejudices wbich
now prevail; and in a second generation the sarae will be true, even
to a greater extent. Already the feeling against caste has received
a shock, and the Httle girls associate together, without much repug
nance, and their parents, for the sake of what they leam from their
worthy instructers, suffer them to attend the schools.
Our missionaries bear, and I believe most deservedly, a very high
character, amongst the English at Bombay, who declare them tobe far
more active and successful than their own countrymen. And I can
but regret, that the authors of the " History of British India," as well
as Bishop Heber, should have passed them by unnoticed, when speak
ing on the subject. The extensive printing establishment, where the
manual labor and composition of types are performed by natives, at pre
sent under the management of Mr. Webster, speaks volumes for them.
It is the source of great numbers of school books and tracts, as well
as translations of the sacred scriptures, into several languages of the
East. However strongly opposed many may be to foreign missions, and
blame the zeal with which they pursue their labors, I think it cannot
be denied by the unprejudiced, that the missionaries have sacrificed
much of worldly comfort, if not aggrandizement, to devote their lives,
distant from their homes, to the benevolent purpose of setting misbe
lievers in the true road to worldly happiness at least. It must be evi
dent to the dullest comprehension, that most of them have capacities
and energies which would procure for them more of this world's
wealth, amidst their friends, in the most blessed country on the face
of the globe, than they attain by taking up the staff and scrip of a
missionary. They are content, with an humble subsistence, to pass
through existence, exposed to the influence of insalubrious climates,
4.0 the wear and tear of mind and body, incident to their profession,
and but too often to the wodd's contumely and misrepresentation.

128 PEDLARS AND THEIR WAKES.

CHAPTER XIV.
SKETCHES IN HINDOOSTAN.
November, 1835.
Every day we were visited by borahs or pedlars, offering various
articles for sale; amongst which were quantities of cast off military
clothes and worn English books, generally from the libraries of offi
cers who had returned to England, or whose necessities exceeded their
means. This not unfrequently happens, in spite of very large salaries,
from the very extravagant modes of life which young men fall into
on their arrival in India. We have known ofa commendatory letter,
in the possession of a man, declaring him to have been the head ser
vant of a gentleman, who signed himself an Ensign in one of the na
tive regiments.
Jewellers brought their wares, cornelian and agate necklaces from
Cambay, diamonds from Golconda, and other trinkets. But what we
most admired were ladies' work boxes, card cases, &c., beautiful in
their workmanship, particularly when we see the few tools employed
in their manufacture. The exterior of these little fabrics is covered
with mo^ic, composed of minute pieces of ivory, ebony, white me
tal like sUver, and a compositipnofglueanddustofafine wood, while
the interior is lined with odorous sandal wood.
Trafficking with these pedlars was the source of much diversion to
our little mess; for invariably, after the most solemn protestations, that
they were losing by the bargain, they received often less than half
of the price first demanded. On these occasions, our Dubash was pre
sent, as he said to " protect master," but in fact with an eye to his
own interests; for he always insisted that all claims should be can
celled by drafts upon himself. And when they were presented, he
took the liberty of deducting from one to ten per cent., according to
circumstances, for prompt payment. This is a perquisite of the Du-

FEMALE BEGGARS. 129
bash, who, fiom the mode of making purchases of borahs, exi'rcises
amongst them a considerable patronage, and influence, often equally
advantageous to both parlies.
Among other daily visiters were numbers of female beggars. One
young woman vvith fine eyes and white teeth, bearing an infant
astride her hip, and leading a child four years old by the hand, was
wont to come every two or three days; and when alms were bestowed,
she first touched her forehead with her hand and then the ground, at
the same time the elder child bent forward its little head to the earth
and embraced my feet, exhibiting a most touching and graceful sense
of gratitude for our small pittance. My right hand man, Cowasjee,
told me not to give to any beggar, because he or &he would direct all
the beggars in town to the house, and we should have no peace.
Generosity is certainly becoming in a beggar; and what can be more
generous than pointing out to others the source whence we have de
rived succor? No one can be happier than your true professional
beggar, if he possess the splendid imagination which has been set
down as an attribute of the cloth.
"Les gueux, les gueux,
Sont les gens heureux;
Us s'aiment entre eux.
Vivent Ies gueux !
Des gueux chantons la louange.
Que de gueux hommes de bien I
II faut qu' enfin I'esprit venge
L'lionnete liomrae qui n' a rien. "
One morning a tall, slender Hindoo, with an intelligent face, loi
tered before the door as if he wished to see or ask for something. He
had on a kummerband, much worn, and a cotton skull cap, from be
neath which hung a profusion of black curls. Hi? scanty costume
showed, at a glance, that he differed from all of his caste I had before
seen. They are deficient in muscle, and their lower limbs are re
markably small, almost without calf; but the individual before me pre
sented that clean developement of the muscular system which would
arrest the attention ofa student of anatomy, or a statuary. Though
small, every muscle and sinew were in strong relief. Quickly per
ceiving that he had attracted notice, he sprang forward with a smile,
bowing almost to the ground, and extending the right hand, in which
he held an earthen jar, and at the same time, touched his forehead
with his left. He was accompanied by a man, carrying a bag, and a
17

130 JONGLEUR FROM MADRAS.
boy with a rude drum slung over his shoulder. When the master
spirit made his bow, the man squatted upon the ground, and the boy
began beating his instrument.
" Heh! heh! heh!" grunted the Hindoo in quick expirations, as he
glanced his sparkling eye over the ground, and cut a caper which set
strings of bells on his ankles to jingling. Up into the air flew the
earthen jar, which was received on the back of the right hand, where
it was kept dancing for a moment, and then on the extended arm
while the other was a-kimbo. Into the air it flew again, and was
caught between the shoulder blades, and there seized and laid upon
the ground.
" What is all this, Cowasjee?"
" Master, please sze jongleur frora Madras?"
" Certainly — let us see all the wonders of India."
"Heh! heh! heh!" ejaculated the jongleur, dancing with two
broad-bladed swords resembling an apothecary's spatulas, which he
tossed in the air, catching them in the hand opposite to that from
which they had been thrown, at the same time dancing to the rapid
beating of the drum. A third sword was handed to him, and the
three were kept in motion, the bells on his ankles jingling in time to
the music.
A stout bamboo, ten feet long, having a block or foot piece, secured
four feet from one end, was handed by his companion. By this time
a number had assembled to witness the performance. The jongleur
very politely requested more room, and the assemblage retired to a
sufficient distance. He ran about ten yards and sprang upon the
bamboo pole, placing his feet upon the block, and, holding the end
close to his breast, stood erect; balanced nicely on this single stilt
six feet frora the ground, he managed to jump round with perfect
facility. At the conclusion of this, as he did at that of each feat, he made
his bow and then knelt upon the ground. He now rested the point
of a sword upon his forehead, and while nicely balancing it, he put
fifteen or twenty small beads into his mouth, then folding his arms
behind his back, strung them on a horse-hair, aided only by his Hps
and tongue. While this certainly difficult performance was acting,
his companion rang two bells and sang some Hindoostanee or Mah
ratta verses, the intonation of which brought to mind the Llaravis of
Peru. After this, he performed several feats of balancing various
small articles on his nose, lips, and chin; then he tossed a stone ball,
six inches in diameter, thirty feet into the air, and caught it between

SEUPENT OlMRMERS. 131
his shoulders, where it struck with a force npparently sufficient to.
knock him down. He then caused it, by the action of his muscles,
to roll over the shoulders and up and down the arm, in a manner to
give it the appearance of animation. He next swallowed a sword, and
while it was in his throat, folded his arms over his chest and danced
for several minutes. He concluded the exhibition by slipping be
tween and beneath the eyelids, a button lo which was suspended a
small bag, containing the stone ball, weighing at least six pounds.
This he raised from the ground, and for a moment swung it from
side to side, like a pendulum, but it seemed to give him pain. For
all this entertainment he received a half rupee, and a few pice from
the bystanders, and went his ways apparently well satisfied with his
gains. One morning two Hindoos spread a rug before the door, and drew
from baskets which they carried, two cobras di capello, or hooded
snakes, five feet long; two dark colored snakes of the same size, and
a coluber, here called, incorrectly however, boa constrictor, twelve
feet long, all alive. The coluber appeared languid, and only inte
rested us on account of his size: but the cobras, which, from their
venomous character, attracted most attention, erected their heads and
spread their hoods, while the other two began to run off, but v\'ere
quickly brought back. The cobras struck several times at their keep
ers, who were careful to avoid their bite, though, after irritating them
in various ways, they seized them by the tail and placed them on the
ground beneath the rug. One of the jongleurs sat himself, cross-
legged near it; the black snakes now began to wind themselves round
his arms and over his shoulders, and gazed steadfastly in his face,
while his companion squatted at a distance, where the coluber had
coiled himself in th^ sun, and was apparently asleep. The chief
snake-charmer, after caressing the snakes which were crawling so
harmlessly over his naked body, put them on the ground, and, roll
ing his eyes upwards, as if internally communing with himself, mut
tered a few words. He then very cautiously raised up the rug and
shook it, but both cobras had disappeared. He gazed about with a
look of inquisitive stupidity, and hastened to a basket, and removed
the cover, and, to our surprise, both the missing snakes reared up
their heads. In the same fashion he charmed them away from the
basket. His tricks were performed admirably, and well worth the
pice bestowed upon him by the spectators.
On two or three occasions we were amused by most ludicrous ex
hibitions of monkeys, that danced, and fought together with sticks,
at the bidding of the showman.

132 RELIGIOUS SIGNS  CREED OF THE PARSEES.
For two or three weeks we were daily entertained, just after
breakfast, by one or another of these jongleurs, who performed
while we enjoyed our morning cigar; for we did not take the spiced
hookah, or hubble-bubble, so much esteemed by many Anglo-Asia
tics. These showmen abound in Bombay, and, indeed, in all the
chief cities of British India, and are well worth seeing once, parti
cularly if the stranger have no social calls, as, unfortunately, was our
case, to fill up his time more agreeably. While at Bombay we saw
nothing of its English society, which, we were informed, is suffi
ciently large and refined to make a little scandal charming amongst
the ladies.
I observed that the Hindoos wore a littie spot of paint, or mud,
the size of a dime, on the forehead — that some had lines, some stains
of clay on the face, and, noticing the same occasionally on my mus
sol, but not every day, I asked hira what it meant.
" All Hindoo man, master, put that on his head; then master know
him been to church; not to master's church, but to Hindoo-man
church." Upon further inquiry, I learned it is a custom among this people
to rob the idol before which they worship of a little paint, or clay,
and make therewith this religious sign upon the forehead, the form
of which varies according to the caste. Most of the Banyans draw
a line from the root of the nose directly upwards over the forehead,
or transversely above the eyebrows. Those denominated Gentoos
and Parboos* make round spots, just above the root of the nose, each
one adhering constantly to the same form.
Munchirjee, our dubash, like all of his race, was very intelligent,
active, and fond of talking. When questioned on the subject of his
religion, he said, " Your Honor knows, that the Parsees have no longer
a home or a country; they are strangers in the land. We believe in
one God, and that Zoroaster was his prophet — he is our Christ. We
worship fire, water, the sun and moon, because they are the most
prominent works of God, and we look upon them as his attributes,
and believe that the worship of them will be acceptable. We may
kindle fire, but must not extinguish it. We are enjoined not to
touch with our lips the vessel we drink from, and always to wash
after eating. For this there is no reason, except that such is our
law. Strictly, we ought not to eat meat, but we only refrain from
• The words Hindoo, Gentoo, Parboo, all originally signified black, and were
applied first by tlie Persians to the several nations of India.

PARSEE BIDLE  PARSEE CEMETERY. 133
pork and beef. At seven years of age we are invested with the
• custie,' or string of goats' hair, which encircles the body twice, and
we never put it on or off without prayer. We believe in future re
wards and punishments, and that the latter are proportioned to the
magnitude of our sins in this world."
One day he brought me an illuminated Persian manuscript, full of
plates, exhibiting the various kinds of punishment which awaited
those who committed certain offences. Dragons, serpents, scorpions,
and tigers are represented attacking the victims in the Parsee hell,
urged on by demons; while paradise is pictured, in the same work,
full of palaces and gardens, and its inhabitants arrayed in the most
gorgeous apparel. One plate represents tiie burying-ground and the
funeral of a great man. The body is borne in an open palanquin,
and deposited on a stone grating, which covers the grave, vvhere it
remains exposed to the weather, and birds of the air, until the bones
drop through into the pit below. The burying-ground is laid out in
three concentric circles, within an outer wall. In the exterior circle
males are deposited, in the next, females, and children in the third.
There is a deep pit, or well, in the centre, wherein the bones are de
posited after all the flesh has decayed away. The sacred fire, which
is never permitted to expire, is kept at the entrance of the ground,
and all persons, except Parsees, are excluded from its holy precincts,
as well as from their temples of worship. Many Parsees have pri
vate places of interment and private temples.
Munchirjee thought all religions nearly the sarae, and that men fol
lowed the faith in which they are educated, declaring that a Parsee
had never been known to become a Christian. He admired the Eng
lish custom of educating females, because it made them good com
panions, worth talking to, and capable of rendering a man's house a
pleasant home.
Parsee females are rarely seen abroad. The men are fond of dis-
•sipationand mirth, and, when they possess the means, of making fre
quent entertainments, spending the night in feasting and drinking,
and viewing the performance of dancing giris, provided for the occa
sion. They are acknowledged to be the most intelligent race in In
dia, and are ranked next to the English. Their complexion is light
yellow, their beards are sparse, and they generally wear a light mus
tache: their heads and stature are larger than those of any of the
other races seen at Bombay, where one meets the Arab, and the Jew,
whose costume is in the Turkish fashion.
Of their fondness for style, we had an opportunity of satisfying

134 PARSEE MERCHANTS  FEMALE COSTUME.
ourselves by visiting tbe mansion of a wealthy merchant of the tribe.
We found it extensive, five stories high, and magnificently furnished
from the manufactories of England, France and Asia, in all a volup
tuous fancy might suggest. The terraplan is occupied in counting-
rooms, and the second and third floors, in drawing-rooms, parlors,
boudoirs, and dormitories. A kind reception awaited us, and we
were pleased with the attentions extended by the daughters of our
host, one of seven and the other of ten years old. The eldest wore
a blue satin spencer, closely fitting her shape, with tight sleeves,
reaching to the elbow, where the edges were embroidered and fringed
with gold bells. A mantle of yellow satin was wrapped round the
body, hanging in rich drapery about the person and limbs, while one
end was flung gracefully over the head after the fashion of the Spanish
mantilla, but not in a manner to conceal the numerous pearl ear
rings, I think five in each ear, and a pearl of price pending from her
nose. She stood, listening to our conversation, with her arms folded,
resting on one foot, while the other was advanced a Httie beyond her
robe, to display a large emerald ring on the toe next to the great one;
her soft dark eyes, rendered more pensive by pencilling the lower
lids with antimony, were directed towards us. The costume of her
sister was of a similar character, but she was yet too young to mani
fest so much pride of dress or desire of approbation. Both were at
tended by their affianced husbands, two intelligent boys, one of eleven
and the other of fourteen years of age. The elder couple were to
be married in the course of the year.
We made frequent visits to the counting-house, or office of Messrs.
Jehangeer and Monockjee Nowrojee, Parsee merchants, who transact
all American business at Bombay. They always greeted us kindly,
and rendered all the services we required at their hands. Their
office is a low building, situated a little back from the highway on
one side of the "Green." In front are always seen a number of
palanquins and their naked bearers, lounging upon the ground in the
shade, awaiting their masters. In a small front yard, planted with
trees, we saw a nuraber of boxes with the seams or joints pitched,
into which they were packing a variety of drugs. Clerks and coolies
were seen busy in taking account of, and weighing them, while a num
ber of women were seated on the ground, under a shed, sorting gum
Arabic, myrrh, assafoetida, nut galls, gum copal, &c., by picking out
the larger pieces, or sifting the smaller fragments from the dust. On
the left is a wooden platform, raised a foot or two from the ground,
upon which were seated a half dozen clerks a la Turque, using their

CASHMERE SHAWLS. 135
knees as a desk, vvith small chests of coin before Uiem. This is the
bank of the house, where money is paid, changed or received. Seve
ral Parsee and Banyan merchants, and as many dubashes, bearing
umbrellas under their arms, were loitering about the door, ready to
do the bidding of their masters. Monockjee, the younger partner,
dressed in a white muslin frock, the high cap of his tribe, full pan
taloons of scarlet silk over fine white socks, and long pointed shoes,
sat in a well cushioned chair, beneath a small punka, kept waving
over his head, conversing with two or three American or European
supercargoes, who were reclining on sofas around him. Such was
the scene I now allude to, and such it appeared every day.
At our request the shawl merchants and venders of Persian rugs
were sent for, and in a few minutes twenty coolies, bearing on their
heads great bundles, done'up in white muslin, passed into an ad
joining room, followed by half the number of Eastern merchants,
and a half dozen brokers, or appraisers. The bundles were speed
ily untied, and a thousand shawls frora Cashmere were revealed to
our inspection, each merchant drawing forth and exhibiting his goods,
lauding their beauties and qualities in the Hindoostanee, no mat
ter whether understood or not. The scene is an exciting one, for
they all talk at once. One throws a splendid shawl over his shoul
ders, and struts to the Hght to show it off, at the sarae time look
ing backwards, and calling attention to its points; while another,
holding a shawl upon his outstretched hands, leans forward over his
pack, looking you in the face, beseeching you to feel how soft its
texture, to examine the border and the beauty of its colors. One is
bewildered with such ajdisplay, and I can imagine that a young lady
might be crazed at the sight. Here were long shawls, square shawls,
large and small, of pure white, green, blue, yellow, orange, red and
black; some having four colors so nicely quartered, that, by care in
folding, they might be made to show for as many different shawls.
All were briUiant in color and beautifully embroidered.
The prices of the shawls vary from one hundred, to six thousand
rupees, and of the scarfs, three yards long by a quarter wide, from
six to twenty rupees, according to quality. The merchants always
demand two or three times these prices, but to adjust all differences
on this subject, it is referred to a broker or appraiser, whose opinion
is received as final. When the matter is about being decided, the
merchant and broker take each other by the hand, beneath the shawl
under consideration, and for a few moments look each other in the
face, the former with an inquiring gaze, the latter with an air of in-

136

CASHMERE SHAWLS.

difference. In this manner intelligence is mutually conveyed in si
lence. Sometimes the broker ends the communication by tossing the
shawl to the merchant with a gesture of contemptuous derision; or,
by literally forcing it into your hands, announcing the price to be
paid, while the merchant, as if unwilling to part with it on such
terms, still retains his hold upon it, but almost always yielding to the
appraiser's decision in the course of a few moments. In our case,
Monockjee, whose word seemed to be law, very kindly told us to se
lect whatever suited our fancies, and he would " settle the price."
Cashmere shawls are manufactured in the valley of Cashmere alone,
whence they are sent to Surat, Bengal, or to other parts of India, and
find their way through these channels all over the world. The ma
nufacture gives employment to 50,000 men, and activity to 16,000
looms. The wool of which they are made is not produced in the
country, but is brought from Thibet, where it is an article of exten
sive traffic, regulated with great jealousy; it is originally of a dark
gray color, and is bleached in Cashmere. The yarn of this wool is
stained with such colors as may be deemed best suited for sale, and
after being woven the piece is once washed. The borders, which usu
ally display a variety of figures and colors, are attached to the shawls
after fabrication, but in so nice a manner, that the junction is not dis
cernible. The shawls usually consist of three sizes, two of which,
the long and small square, which are in common use in India, are the
sorts usually sent to England; the other, long and very narrow, with
a large mixture of black color in them, are worn as a girdle by many
of the Asiatics. They are generally sold in pairs, and the price
varies according to the quality, and is considerably enhanced by the
introduction of flower work. For the English market, those with co
lored grounds and handsome rich borders and flowers are most es
teemed; the plain white shawls being closely imitated in England, are
seldom in demand. According to Mr. Starchey, not more than
80,000 shawls are made, on an average, at Cashmere, in one year.*
Frora the first of January, to the seventeenth of October, 1835, the
number exported frora Borabay, was 3,419.
It may not be out of place to add here a word or two in relation to
the history of the Parsees, before taking a final leave of them.
In the seventh century, the Mohammedans dethroned the last king
of Persia, of the dynasty of the Sassanldes. Many of his vassals, dis
contented with their conquerors, took refuge in Khuzistan, whence,
* Milburn's Oriental Commerce.

HISTORICAL SKETCH, AND CHARACTER OF THE PARSEES. 137
at the end of a hundred years, they went to Ormuz, and soon after
wards sailed for India, and arrived safely at Dlu. Dissatisfied with
this asylum, they again committed themselves to the waves, and were
borne to the smiling shores of Guzerat, the peninsula formed between
the Indus and Malabar, or, rather, between the gulfs of Cutch and
Cambay. The Prince commanding there, would not consent to re
ceive the wanderers, except on condition that they would reveal tiie
mysteries of their faith, give up their arms and speak the language
of the country; that their women should appear unveiled in public,
and their weddings should take place at night-fall, in conformity to
the usage of the place. As these terms of capitulation required no
thing which was in opposition to the religion they professed, the refu
gees at once accepted them.
Laborious habits, contracted and perpetuated through necessity,
made them prosperous. Sufficiently wise to avoid interference in the
affairs of the gove-.-nment and in war, they enjoyed profound peace
in the midst of many revolutions. This circumspection, connected
with their well being, served to increase their number. They always
formed, under the name of Parsees, a separate people, establishing it
as a rule for themselves never to raeddle with the Indians, and to
maintain those religious principles for the sake of which they had
been obliged to leave their country. These principles are those of
the celebrated Zoroaster, though now somewhat modified by time, ig
norance and avarice.
The Guzeratees imbibed, from their example, a portion of their in
dustry and activity. Fields of grain, of sugar and of indigo, spread
over the face of the country; and silk and cotton fabrics were made
in the greatest perfection.
The Parsees enjoyed great respectability of character. They were
well made, robust and indefatigable; they were capable of all kinds
of labor, but excelled in agriculture, and in marine architecture. Such
was their mildness and rectitude, that there is no instance of their be
ing cited before a judge for any act of violence, or breach of con
tract. Serenity of mind was pictured in their countenance, and their
cheerful disposition displayed itself in conversation. They were fond
of poetry. They had no temples, but morning and evening, they as
sembled on the high-ways, or near some fountain, where they wor
shipped the rising and setting sun. Instead of burying their dead,
as vvas the custom with the Indians, they were exposed upon high
towers to become the food of birds of prey. They were generous to
wards all classes of men, without regaril to their religious opinions;
18

138 CAVES OF ELEPHANTA.
and they often displayed their charity and benevolence by purchasing
slaves, and, after instructing them in some useful art, giving them
their liberty. Their number, their union and their wealth, made tiiem
at times suspected by the government, but suspicion could not long
exist against a people so peaceful and moderate in all their conduct.*
From Guzerat they have been carried, by their spirit of commer
cial enterprise, to all parts of India; and wherever found, are remark
able for the traits of character which distinguished them in the land
that gave them an asylum from the persecution of the followers of
Mohammet.

CHAPTER XV.
SKETCHES IN HINDOOSTAN.
November, 1835.
If I were permitted to offer a word of friendly advice to my
reader, I would say, ' should your fortunes ever lead you to this part
of India, never leave it without visiting the islands of Elephanta and
Salsette. You will be paid for your pains by tbe sight of what may
be looked upon as remains of a by-gone world, beheld in the statuary,
contained in the monolithic excavations found upon the above named
islands.' The island, called by the natives Gtiripora, and Elephanta by the
Portuguese, (the first Europeans who visited it,) from the great sculp
tured elephant near fhe place of landing, lies about six miles east
north-east from Bombay castle. It is one mile square; its surface is
mountainous and has a long valley crossing its centre.
One morning, at half past six o'clock, our party, under the
guidance of Captain Roberts, embarked in two bunder boats, for the
far famed island of Elephanta. The bunder boat is a large launch,
with snug stern sheets, roofed over and shut in with blinds, and
* Establecimientos Ulti'amarinos, Tom. III. Madrid, 1786.

CAVES OF ELEPHANTA. 139
furnished vvith comfortable lounges. Our boat was manned by nine
Mussulmans, in white turbans, blue frocks, and striped pantaloons.
The oars were straight poles with pieces of round plank at their ex
tremities. After a pleasant sail of an hour, we landed and walked
up the valley which was partly covered with rice fields. About half
way across the island, on the left, there are two minor caves, now
half choked up with earth and rubbish. One presents a mass of
rock, projecting frora the hill-side, with an open space between it
and the level ground, about six feet high and fifty or more long.
On making our way to it, through the thick growing shrubbery
which conceals it from the by-passer who follows the beaten track,
we were satisfied that this projecting rock had been supported by
columns, forming a portico, from which a door opened into a large
square room. On each side of the door way is the statue ofa ' dor-
pal ' or warder, and over it are sculptured a number of minor Hin
doo deities, all more or less mutilated. At cither end of the portico
is a small chamber or excavation.
After walking nearly a mile we found ourselves in front of the
celebrated monolithic temple, but were disappointed as well as sur
prised to find, that instead of descent, there is a gentle ascent to its
entrance. The side ofa hill, about one hundred feet high, has been
cut through its dark rocky structure, into a perpendicular wall or
face of sufficient width, leaving on either hand a spur of rock, or
jamb, now covered with green sward and clambering plants, forming
a kind of area in front of the cave. Between these spurs, is the
opening, fifty-five feet from east to west, and about seventeen feet
high. The entablature of naked rock, originally supported by two
pilasters and tvvo columns, of which one only is standing, rises many
feet perpendicularly; and its summit, which is also the verge of the
hill, is crowned by grass and shrubbery, and several vines hang
down over its face, to the opening. Before the cave lie several
broken pillars, and rubbish, frora behind which, to our right, eddied
upwards a column of smoke, proceeding from the temporary kitchen
of our servants, who had been despatched hither the evening pre
vious, with the implements and essentials of breakfast.
We stood for some minutes in admiration of the view before us.
The rows of pillars, dimly seen in the interior of the cave, leads one
to fancy he is viewing an extensive hall or saloon. The first im
pression is of wonder, accompanied by a sort of mental effort to con
ceive the labor and time, an excavation so vast, into the solid rock,
must have cost; and on farther examination, one is struck with the

140 CAVES OF ELEPHANTA.
proportion preserved in its relative parts, and with the modern form
of the door frames.
The terraplan of the temple is neariy in the form of a cross. ^ The
floor has been cut in medallion figures; the roof, or ceiling, which is
flat, varying in different places, from fifteen to seventeen and a half
feet in height, had been once white, but is now covered with dust.
The distance from the front entrance to the opposite wall is one hun
dred and thirty and a half feet; and from the east to the west en
trance, both now closed by a modern wall, is one hundred and thirty-
three feet. The roof was supported by sixteen pilasters and twenty-
six pillars, planted in rows, but not equidistant, of which fifteen are
still standing, the rest having been thrown down and mutilated. The
bases, or lower third of the pillars, are square; the corners are sur
mounted by small figures of Garrish and Hartik, gods of the Hindoo
mythology. All the pillars are written over, more or less, by Eng
lish visiters, who have left their names to record their presence.
The back wall, which is parallel with the front, is divided into
three square compartments, the centre one of which is a deep chapel,
or square niche, almost filled by a colossal bust. The figure has
three heads, one facing front and the others to opposite sides, toge
ther with the neck and shoulders, leaving one to imagine that the
lower part of the statue is buried beneath the floor of the temple.
The right hand and part of the arm are seen, as if pushed up through
the earth, grasping a cobra di capello, which, with spread hood, ap
pears to be gazing in the face which looks eastward. The height of
the bust is seventeen feet ten inches, and is the best piece of statu
ary in the cave; its elaborate workmanship and fine proportions have
been eulogized by all visiters, while they have found fault with the
other figures, which are wanting in anatomical correctness. Such is
the celebrated trimurll, or triformis, which the Portuguese spared,
under the idea that it was a representation of the holy trinity, when,
in their zeal to destroy the idols and worship of heretics, they muti
lated the temple, by firing great guns into it.
In the lintel of the door-frame of this chapel are two mortices, in
which the pintals of a great door might have turned. On each side
of the door-way is the statue of a warder of gigantic size.
The compartments, or rather panels, on the right and left, con
tain groups of figures, representing Shivii and Parvilti, the chief god
and goddess of Hindoo worship, for an account of which the reader
is referred to " Ward's View of the Hindoos," which should be read
before visiting any of the temples of this iieople. In front of the

CAVES OF ELEPHANTA. 141
chapel and panels there is a vestibule, and at eitiier extremity of it
a small square chamber, the doors of which face each olher. They
contained nothing but rubbish; they were the only parts of the cave
which we, who are not enthusiastically antiquarian in our tastes, re
quired lights to examine. Beyond these rooms, both to the right and
left, still keeping along the back wall, are panels filled with the
figures of gods.
Near tiie middle of the western side of the cave there is a room
twenty feet square; each of its four walls is pierced by a door-way,
approachable from the main teraple by three steps, and guarded by
warders. In the centre of this apartraent is a stone, about seven feet
square, of the same rock as the temple, pierced by another stone, of
much finer and smoother structure, about fifteen inches square at the
base, and three feet high. This is the "Hngu," one of the forms of
Shivii, which is symbolic of the procreative attribute, seen through
out nature, and is adored as the power emanating from Brumhii
alone, the creator of all things. Stones of different texture are used
in the "lingii," to be, in a measure, typical of the two sexes. On
the top of the vertical stone, which is rounded at the summit, we
found fresh flowers, and a few grains of rice, the recent offering of
some poor Hindoo.
The phallus of the Greeks and the lingii are strikingly alike,
and perhaps they may have a similar, if not the same origin, both
being simulacra membri virilis, the mention of which, among the
ancients, never conveyed any impure thought or lascivious reflection,
though Mr. Ward asserts that such is not the case among the Hin
doos. On both the eastern and western sides of the principal cave are
open courts, formed by closing up the ancient entrances by modern
walls, as above stated. Both of these courts lead to smaller caves,
now partially filled with water, in one of which is another lino-ii
and a group of gods, sculptured in bas-relief; but it is not my pur
pose to attempt to give any thing more than a general idea of this
truly astonishing work.
Of the degree of genius and art displayed in this temple, and the
figures around it, very different opinions have been expressed; some
are disposed to rate them very high, and speak in rapturous terms of
the execution and design of several of the compartments. " To me
it appears," says Mr. Erskine, with whom I fully concur, "that
whUe the whole conception and plan of the temple are extremely
grand and magnificent, and while the outline and disposition of the

142

VISIT TO SALSETTE.

several figures indicate great talent and ingenuity, the execution and
finishing of the figures, in general, (though some of them prove the
sculptor to have great merit,) fall below the general idea, and are
often very defective. The figures have somewhat of rudeness and
want of finish; the proportions are sometimes lost, the attitudes
forced, and every thing indicates the infancy of the art, though a
vigorous infancy."
After a hasty survey of the temple, we were summoned to break
fast. The table was spread just within the cave, near the eastern
side, where a vacant niche served us for a side board — the same, we
were told, used by the pic-nic party which Captain Hall has cele
brated. By twelve o'clock our examination, but not our curiosity, was
over, and I stretched myself upon a sofa: however, unlike Captain
Hall, my imagination was not sufficiently warmed, or my slumbers
were too deep, to have the honor of a visitation of the trimurti or
any of Shivu's tribe.
After dining gayly and sumptuously in the temple, on a " chow
der," prepared under the superintendence of one of the party, after
the fashion of New England, on occasions of the kind, we bade adieu
to this curious ruin of Hindoo antiquity, to prevent the farther muti
lation of which, a propensity peculiar to the English and their de
scendants, the government has stationed a sergeant, who dwells hard
by, as curator of the once holy precincts.
On the raorning of the 24th I had the pleasure of joining Major
William Miller (of the artillery) at Parel, with Commodore Ken
nedy, Captain Stribling, and Mr. Roberts. At six o'clock, A. M.,
we set out in carriages for Salsette, to visit the monolithic caves of
Kenery. On this occasion we were the guests of Major Miller,
whose urbanity and unremitted attention throughout the excursion
will long be, with us aH, a subject of pleasing recollection. The day
was pleasant, and our road led through several villages and over a
viaduct thrown between the two islands, ofl'ering many pretty land
scapes to the view. At eight o'clock, A. M., we reached Vehar, or
Clare-abad — Claretown — so named in honor of Lord Clare, where
we had an accession to our party, which now numbered eight gen
tlemen, besides not less than thirty servants, variously employed.
They had been sent forward the evening before, and a part of them
had already set off for the caves, bearing on their heads tables, chairs,
and all the materials for breakfast.
We soon followed, either on horseback or in palanquins, over an

OAVES OF KENKUY. 143
irregular bridle path, winding through thickets or jungle, sometimes
descending vales, and again rising gentle slopes. Vegetation was
rife every where. Palins, and the wide-spreading banyan, were
often passed; and we saw several palms which appeared to be grow
ing out of the top of the latter kind of tree. The distance from
Clare-abad to the caves, in a direct line, is three and three quarter
miles, but the winding of the road increases it to at least five; tiie
whole distance from Borabay is about twenty miles; quite far enough
to ride for an appetite to breakfast.
We alighted at the foot of a large tree, in a deep ravine. There
was no appearance of the caves, for vegetation was so luxuriant that
even the path to them was concealed. The ascent is steep, and over
a kind of shingle, composed of fragments of loose stones, resembling
the bed of a mountain torrent. When we had mounted, perhaps a
hundred feet, we emerged suddenly in front of the caves. The first
sight of the two boldly sculptured columns, supporting a plain, solid
entablature, over which there is hollowed out an oblong square, is
strikingly picturesque, being hidden from view, during the ascent,
by overshadowing shrubs and trees. Within these are two ante
rooms, each about thirty-five feet broad by twelve deep, and beyond
them an unfinished apartment, perhaps twenty-six feet in depth.
The front screen is pierced by three doors, with as many windows
above them, and the wall which separates the second ante-room from
the inner chamber has three doors in it, and over the central one, a
large open arch, rising nearly to the roof. Beneath it are small holes,
resembling those intended to receive joists. In this cave all is plain,
without figure or ornament.
From this an irregular excavation is continued to the principal
temple. It contains two " dhagopes," solid masses of stone, in the
form of a cupola, which are other forms of the lingii, as well as nu
merous figures of Boudha, and minor deities, sculptured in relief
upon the walls; for a minute and accurate account of which, as well
as of those in the other caves, the reader is referred to a paper on
the subject, by Mr. Henry Salt, published in the first volume of the
" Transactions of the Literary Society of Bombay." In the same vo
lume may be seen the result of an examination of Elephanta, by
William Erskine, Esq.*
Immediately adjoining the irregular excavation stands the great
* In making up this general account of the caves, both papers referred to in
the text have been freely used, particularly for the measurements.

144 CAVES OF KENERY.
cave, which, from its resemblance to a Gothic building, or from a tra
dition that it was converted to that use by the Portuguese, is com
monly called the " church." There is in front of it a small tank,
hewn out of the living rock. An ascent of a half dozen steps leads
to a portal, which was once either arched over or higher than at pre
sent, as the broken figures on each side sufficiently show. This
opens upon an area, unequally square, which form they were com
pelled to adopt on account of the shelving of the rock; for, in other
parts, the architects have consulted regularity in the general plan.
On each side of the area stands a lofty column; one of which is con
nected to the rock. The capital of that on the right sustains three
lions couchans, and the pedestal is ornamented with carvings, in re
lief, while that on the left is surmounted by dwarfish figures. The
whole space of the farther end of the area is occupied by the front
facing of the cave, which is divided by plain columns, into three
square portals below, and five windows above. They open into a
vestibule, at either end of which stands, in a recess, the arch of whicb
is made to appear, as if supported by fluted columns, a statue of
Boudha, twenty-three feet high, carved from the living rock. These
gigantic bodies stand in such bold relief as almost to lead one to be
lieve they were placed there. In spite of being out of proportion,
their air, size, and general arrangement; the laziness of the attitude,
the simplicity of their drapery, the suitableness of their situation, and
the plainness of the style in which they are executed, contrasted
with a want of taste in the ornaments around, contribute to give
them an effect of grandeur and expression, not always attainable even
by the best sculptors. The screen is covered with a variety and a
great number of rudely executed figures. In this vestibule there
are two inscriptions, which, we were informed, have been satisfacto
rily made out. Three door-ways lead from the vestibule into the
principal cave, which, in its greatest extent, is eighty-three feet long
by thirty broad, and is circular at the farther end. A close colonnade,
consisting of thirty-four pillars, runs round the whole, at six feet
from the wall. From the top of the columns springs a circular arch,
roughly cut, which opens into the vestibule, and forms the roof of
the centre compartment or nave. The roof of the aisles, formed be
tween the wall and colonnade, is flat, and of the height of the pillars,
which is fifteen feet. At the farther extremity of the nave is a solid
dhagope, forty-nine feet in circumference. The regularity and effect
of the temple are marred by the unfinished state of the columns, one
half of them being plain shafts. The figures on the tops of those

THE Cnv OF CANORIN. 1-15
finished consist chiefly of lions and elephants, but tiiey are small, and
by no means well executed.
Long before we had finished our examination, which broke in
upon the repose of hundreds of bats, suspended in clusters frora the
vaulted roof, and set thera flitting about over head with a roaring
noise, breakfast was smoking on the table, set in the vestibule.
Our morning ride gave a zest to the good things before us; such as
the worshippers of Boudha never dreamed would profane the pre
cincts of his holy temple.
Having leisurely despatched our meal, we turned our steps to the
eastward, and followed a path which ascends from the church into a
deep ravine, nearly a mile in extent, on both sides of which are nu
merous caves; some consisting of two or three plain chambers,
which communicate one with the other; and some of very consider
able extent filled with figures of gods. There is one, called, I be
lieve, the Durbar cave, seventy feet long by thirty wide, which has
a veranda in front. It contains eleven chambers or dormitories,
which communicate with the principal hall; on the whole, bearing a
close resemblance to a caravanserai, or a Spanish inn. So numerous
are these caves, that the place bas obtained the name of the " City
ofCanorin." In fact, the whole hill seems to have been a temple
for religious worship; its sides are cut into steps, now time and
weather worn, leading to various excavations, a description of which
would be equal in tedious detail to that of the houses individually of
a large town. In the bottom or bed of the ravine, there are several
tanks of clear water; indeed, small tanks of water are very common
throughout this monolithic city, and in some of them we saw fish.
On tlfe eastern side of the hill, there is a terrace commanding a fine
view of the surrounding country. The soil upon the hill is very thin,
and only sufficient to sustain scattering blades of rank grass and a
few cactus plants.
About four o'clock P. M., when the sun's rays had become less
intense. Commodore Kennedy and Mr. Roberts entered their palan
quins, preceded by the attendants on foot, bearing tables, chairs, and
baskets of fragments and utensils of our household, and we bade
farewell — vale, vale longum vale — to the temples of Kenery and the
city ofCanorin. We reached Clare-abad at sunset, and soon were
seated round the social board. The wines were cooled with ice
from the United States, lately brought here for the first time. The
usual mode of cooling wine in India, is to sew a flannel covering over
the decanter or bottle, and wet it with a solution of nitre.
19

146 CAVES OF JOGHEYSEER  AMBOLEB  BANDORA.
In pursuance of arrangements made in the evening, at daylight the
next day, we mounted and struck across the country to Ambolee, (a
scattering village consisting ofa Portuguese church and a few huts,) to
visit the caves of Jogheyseer. After a pleasant ride of four miles,
we alighted at a house prepared for our reception; where we found,
that the Commodore and Mr. Roberts had already arrived. And
what seemed almost incredible, the servants were also tliere with
their loads of furniture, and were busily preparing breakfast, in the
same easy manner as if they had been long domiciliated on the spot.
The caves of Jogheyseer are about two miles in a north-easterly
direction from the village, and we found it a pleasant morning walk
from the place of our bivouack. Over their western entrance, almost
concealed by shrubs, is a natural arch, formed by the branches of a
banyan tree, which stretching across the path, have taken root on the
opposite side, giving it a very picturesque appearance. A descent
of seven steps leads to an ante-chamber, divided by two pillars
and three pilasters on each side, into three compartments. The
figures on the walls have nearly disappeared under the crumbling
hand of time; but still enough remains to show, that the frame and
cornice of the door, opening into the principal cave, were once fin-
nished in a variety of sculpture neatly executed. The great cave is
one hundred and twenty feet square. Eighteen feet inv/ards are
twenty pillars, forming an inner square; within which, there is a
chamber twenty feet square, containing a lingii. On the eastern
side there is a small cave, separated by an unfinished court, open to
the sky; and on the south side runs a veranda, supported by ten large
columns. These temples were wet and very damp, and the sculp
ture, which has been well executed, is falling fast to decay. From
the number of bats that have possessed themselves of these caves,
we may infer they are not now very frequently visited.
After breakfast we again set forward for Bandora, distant eight
miles, and our Mussol ran ahead of the horse, and continued to do
so nearly all the way to Bombay, resting only while crossing the
ferry between the islands, and an hour at Parel. He must have run
at least eighteen miles, barefoot and under a burning sun. The
country between Ambolee and Bandora is level, and generally
planted with rice. At intervals are erected crosses, time-worn in
appearance, the work of the first Portuguese settlers, to guard them
against the heresies of the land.
Bandora is a quiet, pretty village, full of gardens and cocoanut
trees, situated neariy opposite to Mahim, from which it is divided by

THE MONOLITHIC OAVES OF INDIA. 147
the strait flowing between the islands of Salsette and Bombay. Our
carriages were ferried over in a short time, and we soon rode
through Mahim, a pretty hamlet almost entirely shaded by groves of
cocoanuts. A drive of three miles brought us to Parel; and we
reached Bombay for dinner, delighted with the excursion and with
what we had seen.
After an examination of the several caves and temples of Ele
phanta, Kenery, and Jogheyseer, several questions uf a speculative
nature present themselves to the mind. Who and what were the
people who excavated them? How far had they advanced in the arts
of civilization? Are there no traces of a similar style of architecture
in other ruins on the face of the globe? Were the laborers slaves or
freemen? Was not the rock in a soft state when the caves were sculp
tured? Many of the figures have so much the appearance of having been
moulded of clay, that we are led to infer that the rock was not
so hard and unyielding as at present. Frequent but unsuccessful
attempts have been made by visiters, to carry away mementos of
Hindoo antiquity, as is proved by the nuraber of mutilated figures
every where seen in these temples. Our systematic and patient la
bor with chisel and hammer was rewarded with only a few imperfect
fragments. It seems probable that the rock was soft when it
emerged from the waters. " In a manuscript account of Malabar,
ascribed to the Bishop of Virapli, the seat of a celebrated Roman
Catholic seminary, the writer observes, that, by the accounts of the
learned natives of that coast, it is little more than 2300 years since
the sea came up to the foot of the Jukem or Gaut mountains; and
this he thinks extremely probable, from the nature of the soil, and
the quantity of sand, oyster-shells and other fragments, met with on
making excavations. It is not unreasonable to believe that the
whole coast was elevated by subterranean agency; for, so recently
as 1805, the bed of part of the sea and of the Indus was permanently
changed by an earthquake, near Cutch, on the coast of Bombay."*
Where are they now, who did so much in honor of their gods? —
who toiled as if they thought —
" 'What speaks of Heaven should by no means be brittle.
But strong and lasting, till no tongue can tell
Their names who reared it."
And now 'no tongue can tell ' who carved the living rock into
emples for the worship of high Heaven.
* Bakewell's Geology. New Haven, 1833.

148 THE MONOLITHIC CAVES OF INDIA
It seems, that originally the Hindoos acknowledged but one great
first cause — the architect divine. Observing men, perhaps priests,
remarked at an early period, the three great leading features in the
phases of nature to be creation, duration or preservation, and decay,
which they individuated and personified, under the names of Bramhii,
Vishnoo, and Shivii. As in other countries, poets seized upon these
leading ideas, and begot from thera minor attributes; which, to make
more tangible to the unthinking, as well as to please the allegorical
taste of the times, were also personified, until the number of gods
extended almost to infinity;— stated by Mr. Ward to be 330,000,000.
For the lives and deeds of this host of deities, we are indebted to the
extravagant imaginations and wild fancies of their historians, who
were believed, at least by the profamim valgus, because they told
what was incredible — " Rien est si fortement cru comme ce qui est
incroyable." In the early period of its prevalence, the Hindoo system was pro
bably pure and elevated in its character; but as men became vicious
they grew vulgar, and sunk the rites and ceremonies of the faith to a
level wilh their own minds; until the present time, when we see
their idols, composed of wood, and sheltered in hovels, instead of
brass and stone, placed in temples, hewn from the living rock; and
in a style that betokened a coraparatively advanced state of civiliza
tion as well as great populousness. But there is nothing in these
temples, fo tell us in what age or in what dynasty they were com
pleted. "One fact," says Mr. Erskine, in his account of the cave-
temple of Elephanta, already referred to; " One fact is worthy of notice,
that a greater number of magnificent cave temples present themselves
in a small space on this coast, than are to be met with in any other part
of India. The caves of Elephanta, those of Kenery, Ambolee, and
some others on the island of Salsette, the fine cave of Carli, on the
road by the Bor Ghaut to Poonah, the still more extensive and mag
nificent ranges at Ellora, not to mention some smaller cave-temples
in the Concan, and near the Adjanta pass, are all on Mahratta ground,
and seem to show the existence of some great and powerful dynasty,
which must have reigned many years to coraplete works of such la
bor and extent."
" It has long been an object of inquiry among scholars, to discover
the channel through which civilization, science, and an acquaintance
with the Hberal arts, first reached the valley which is watered by the
Nde. Without analyzing the numerous hypotheses, which have been
successively formed and abandoned, or repeating the various conjee-

COMPARED WITH THOSE OF EGYPT. 149
tures which have, age after age, amused the ingenuity of the learned,
we shall state at once, as the most probable of the opinions that have
been entertained on this subject, that the stream of knowledge accom
panied the progress of commerce, along the banks of those great ri
vers which fall into the Persian gulf, and thence along the coast of
Arabia, to the shores of the Red Sea. There is the best reason to be
lieve, that these passes or natural defiles, which connect the sea just
named with the river of Egypt, witnessed the eariiest emigration of co
lonists from Asia; who, in the pursuits of commerce, or in search of
more fertile lands, or of mountains enriched with gold, found their
way into Nubia and Abyssinia. Mean time, it is probable, a similar
current set eastward across the mouths of the Indus, carrying arts
and institutions of a corresponding character into the countries which
stretch from that river to the great peninsula of Hindoostan.
" The most obvious confirmation of the opinion now stated, may
be drawn from the striking resemblance which is known to subsist
between the usages, the superstitions, the arts and the mythology of
the ancient inhabitants of western India, and those of the first set
tlers on the upper Nile. The temples of Nubia, for example, exhibit
the same features, whether as to the style of architecture, or tiie form
of worship, which must have been practised by them, with the simi
lar buildings which have been recently examined in the neighborhood
of Bombay. In both cases, they consist of vast excavations hewn
out of the solid body of a hill or mountain, and are decorated with
huge figures, which indicate the same powers of nature, or serve as
emblems to denote the same qualities in the ruling spirits of the uni
verse. " As a farther proof of this hypothesis, we are informed that the
Sepoys who joined the British array in Egypt, under Lord Hutchin
son, imagined that they found their own temples in the ruins of Den-
dera, and were greatly exasperated at the natives for their neglect of
the ancient deities, whose images are still preserved. So strongly,
indeed, were they themselves impressed with this identity, that they
proceeded to perform their devotions with all the ceremonies prac
tised in their own land. There is a resemblance, too, in the minor in
struments of their superstition, — the lotus, the lingam, and the ser
pent — which can hardly be regarded as accidental; but it is, no doubt,
in the immense extent, the gigantic plan, the vast conception which
appear in all their sacred buildings that we most readily discover the
influence of the same lofty genius, and the endeavor to accomplish
the same mighty object. The excavated temple at Guerfeh Hassan,

150 MONOLITHIC CAVES OF INDIA AND EGYPT.
for instance, reminds every traveller of the cave of Elephanta. The
resemblance, indeed, is singularly striking; as are, in fact, all the lead
ing principles in Egyptian architecture to that of the Hindoos. They
differ only, it has been observed, in those details of the decorative
parts, which trifling points of difference in their religious creeds seem
to have suggested to each; but many even of the rites and emblems
are precisely the same, especially those of the temples dedicated to
Iswara, the Indian Bacchus. In truth, in most respects they are so
much alike, that the same workmen might almost be supposed to
have superintended the execution of them in both countries. In In
dia, and in Egypt, the hardest granite mountains have been cut down
in the most striking, if not the most beautiful, fronts of temples
adorned with sculpture. In both countries, large masses of rock have
been excavated into hollow chambers, whose sides are decorated with
columns and statues of men and animals, carved out of the same
stone; and in each, are found solid blocks of many hundred tons
weight, separated from the adjoining mountain, and lifted up into the
air. By whom and by what means these wonderful efforts have been
accomplished, is a mystery sunk too deep in the abyss of time ever
to be revealed. To Greece, neither country is indebted for any part
of its architecture, while she has evidently taken many hints from
them. Except at Alexandria and Antinoe, no edifice strictly Gre
cian, appears in Egypt. But we need only compare tiie monolithic
temples of Nubia with those of Mahabulipoor, the excavations of
Guerfeh Hassan with those of Elephanta, and the grottos of Hadjur
Sllsili, as described by Pococke, with the caverns of Ellora, to be
convinced that these sacred monuments of ancient days derived their
origin from the same source."*
* Russel's View of Ancient and Modern Egypt.

SKETCHES IN CEYLON.

THE COAST OF HINDOOSTAN. 153

CHAPTER XVI.

VOYAGE ALONG THE COAST OF HINDOOSTAN, AND SKETCHES IN
CEYLON.

December, 1835.
At sunrise on the fourth of December, accompanied by the Enter
prise, we got under way and bade farewell to the British capital of
western India, leaving few behind to regret our departure, or from
whom we separated with emotion. A large number of the officers
and men were suffering from fever, brought on by exposure, during
their night watches, to the land winds, which came to us loaded witb
miasmata, exhaled frora the marshy lands over which they blew.
Scarcely an individual on board escaped attack, and for three months
the sick list numbered nearly one-fourth of the crew; and though se
vere in its symptoms, it yielded in every case to the treatment adopted ;
which, together with all that belongs to the medical history of the
cruise, the author hopes to lay before the profession at some future
day. For the benefit of the regular land and sea breezes we kept close
to the land, fanning gently along on our way. The coast of the Con
can presented diversified and various landscapes of an undulated coun
try near the beach, with a back ground formed by the ranges of the
Ghaut mountains rising, blue in the distance, towards the clouds. At
long intervals white dwellings were indistinctly perceived, peeping
from beneath green groves of cocoanuts, and, near the shore, the white
sail of the fisherman's canoe was seen shining brightly in the sun.
On the sixth we passed the site of Goa, and of Calicut on the ele
venth, places that have attracted no little attention, from having been
20

154 APPROACH COLOMBO.
the first among the conquests of the Portugu'ese iti the east. The
breeze was so light, and the sea so smooth, that canoes came along
side, laden with vegetables, fruits, live birds in cages, baskets made
of rattan and various Httie articles, which were offered for sale at
moderate prices, by dark colored natives, dressed in very small kum-
merbands, and broad-rimmed, low-crowned hats of cocoanut leaves.
Among the birds were several of a species called "miners," remark
able for having a comb and gills of bright yellow, finely contrasted
with tiie shining black of their plumage: they partake somewhat of
the character of the parrot, inasmuch as, it is said, they may be rea
dily taught to repeat words. Their natural note is comparable to the
voice of a young pig.
In the afternoon we passed Cochin, which was a considerable place
when the Portuguese first made themselves masters of it, but was
afterwards despoiled by the Dutch, and is now of little note. From
this place the port-register was sent on board, and we were requested
to record the name of the ship, and any news we might bring. Ves
sels bound to the southward and eastward from Bombay, are obliged
to keep close in to the shore for the sake of the wind; and the plan
of boarding them en passant must frequently give news at places not
often visited by vessels directly from the westward of the cape of
Good Hope. A register was sent on board from Alipee, a town a
little to the southward. Canoes boarded us from Cochin, with ve
getables, fruit, parrots, monkeys, &c., their masters being, like our for
mer visiters, dark Indians, with the difference of their wearing white
turbans instead of hats.
As we approached cape Comorin the breeze grew strong, and we
passed the southern extremity of the Indian peninsula at a much
more rapid rate than we sped along the coasts of Concan, Canara
and Malabar, which presented us with a variety of landscape views
which I may not stop to describe. On the night of the 14th, we had
a refreshing shower, the first since leaving Zanzibar, and about ten
o'clock the light-house of Colombo, distant twenty miles, was de
scried frora the fore top -sail yard, but we were not regaled by the
spicy odors from "India's utmost isle," which, certain travellers
tell us, announce the vicinity of Ceylon long before it may be dis
cerned, even by the best telescope from the mast-head of the loftiest
ship. The following morning came with clear sunshine and a gentle
breeze. The shores of Ceylon were seen to be low, and clothed in
verdure to the water's edge; but, a few miles back, ranges of moun-

Adam's peak. 155
tains rose among the clouds; and one solitary cone, towering nearly
seven thousand feet above the level of the sea, stood an excellent
land mark for ships approaching the roads. It is known as Adam's
Peak, and is sixty miles to the eastward of Colombo. Tradition has
brought down to our times several legends in relation to this lofty
peak, upon the top of which there is an excavation or impression in
the rock, resembling the track of a human fiiot of colossal dimen
sions. The Boudhists say, it is the last foot-.print their god left on
the island when he stepped across the waters into the kingdom of
Siam; hence it has become a holy place — a spot for worship and
pilgrimage, and to which great numbers yearly resort from different
parts of the island as well as from the peninsula of India. The
difficulty of the ascent is so great, that very few Europeans, unani-
mated as they are, by the holy fervor that swells the pilgrim's breast,
have ever attempted it; and the priests have manifested great repug
nance to those few who have achieved the task, remaining on the
summit during the night, saying such an act would bring some terri
ble misfortune upon Ceylon. The Mussulmans, however, insist that
the foot-print is of our primogenitor Adam when he passed to the
continent over the gulf of Manaar, striding from island to island of
a group now known as Adam's bridge. According to their sacred
writings, the paradise where Adam and Eve were created was in the
seventh heaven; and when they forfeited, through the machinations
of Satan, their claims to a continuance of their blissful condition,
they were expelled from heaven by the command " Get ye down,
the one of you an enemy to the other, and there shall be a dwelling-
place for you on earth." When thus ejected from paradise, Adam fell
upon the island of Ceylon or Serendib, and Eve near Joddah, the
port of Mecca, on the Red Sea, and their separation lasted two hun
dred years. At the end of that time, the angel Gabriel conducted
Adam, after his repentance, to a mountain near Mecca, wberehe found
and knew his wife, and afterwards retired with her to Ceylon, and
continued to propagate the species.*
As we drew near to the spot, which the above tradition should make
memorable, we discovered the fort and town of Colombo, almost
hidden by groves of cocoanuts and shade trees: the most visible ob
jects were the light-house and flag-staff, which, being white, are in
admirable contrast with the all -pervading green foliage. Here and
there the corner of some white bungalow or more humble dwelling,
* Sale's Koran.

156 pilot  DHONIES.
peered from beneath the trees, and the weather-worn towers of a
mosque and a Dutch church, rose high, and stood out sharp against
the mountain back ground; but these were scarcely perceivable, be
fore we reached the anchorage, which is in an open roadstead, ex
posed to fresh gales during the prevalence of the south-west mon
soon. A pilot boarded us about ten o'clock, and in an hour afterwards
both vessels anchored about a mile from the shore — the first Ameri
can men-of-war that have entered the port— and the Peacock saluted
the place with twenty-one guns, which were quickly responded to
from the fort.
When within four or five miles of the land, our attention was drawn
to a number of canoes of a pecuHar construction, which glided over
the water at a rate far exceeding that of any vessel I had before seen.
They are called " dhonies," and at a short distance, so trifling is their
breadth, they might be compared, without fear of contradiction, to a
plank set edgewise upon the water, urged forward by an oblong sail.
The dhony used by fishermen, is from fifteen to twenty feet long, a foot
or two wide at the bottom, but much narrower at the top. The basis of
the vessel, is a log of light wood, hollowed out after the fashion of the
more ordinary canoes, and, like them, sharp at both ends. Thin planks,
a foot or eighteen inches wide, are set edgewise upon the log, along
the margin of its excavation and bent round, forming a sort of bul
wark, and very much increasing the depth of the boat; but such is
its extreme narrowness, that the slightest preponderance of weight on
one side or the other, would turn it over, if left without some contri
vance to prevent such an accident. Therefore, to make the dhony
available for marine navigation, a solid log of the same wood, pointed
at both ends, but of less diameter, and of little more than .half the
length of that which forms the hulk, is placed parallel to it, at about
ten feet distant, and connected to it by arching poles, composed of
several pieces of bamboo lashed together, and secured at right angles
at either end of the canoe and log; thus forming an out-rigger, which
enables the dhony to carry, in perfect safety, a spread of sail which,
otherwise, would be out of all proportion. The sail is oblong, very
thin, and is set from the mast by a sprit and controlled by a sheet.
Those dhonies which approached us carried two men, one sitting in
the bow and the other in the stern. Both were of very dark color and
entirely naked, with the exception ofa narrow riband of cotton cloth
passed round the loins and between the legs, very much after the fa
shion of what surgeons call a T bandage. And instead of sitting al-

LANDING OF COLOMBO. 157
together in the canoe, one leg was swinging carelessly over tiie side; —
indeed, both limbs could with difficulty be placed side by side within
the bulwarks. In one dhony there was an additional passenger; a boy
of about fourteen, who was squatting on the out-rigger, casting water
upon the thin sail with half of a cocoanut shell, to increase its capacity
for holding the wind. When struck by a squall of sufficient force to
threaten an upset, one of the dhony-men rushes out upon the out
rigger, and by his weight preserves the equipoise of the vessel.
Such is the dhony of the fishermen who seek their prey with hook
and line, while their fleet barks are under sail; at least in this man
ner they catch a delicious fish soraetiraes styled the 'Ceylon Sal
mon,' frora a resemblance in size and flavor to the one from which it
gains the cognomen. But there are other vessels called dhonies of
much larger dimensions; some of thirty or forty tons burden, con
structed of planks stitched together, which navigate all around the
island, and venture to the coasts of Malabar and Coromandel. Both
the bow and stern are sharp, and rise high out of the water, and they
have conical or tent-formed deck, made of rattan or similar materials
and secured to the gunwale to cover the cargo. Their out-riggers,
however, do not preserve the sarae ratio of size as in the canoe. I
have seen some of these small dhonies with three masts, bearing tri
angular sails of a most graceful cut, tapering aloft to thin points,
gliding by the cocoanut groves with a fleetness, buoyancy and ease,
befitting the chariots of sea-nymphs and peris, rather than the marine
vehicles of the naked persons of dark-skinned Cingalese or grasping
Moormen. The smoke of the salutes was still seen rolling in clouds before the
gentle breeze when we left the ship for the town. There were two
English vessels in the roads: the usual nuraber at one time does not
exceed four or five; and during the south-west monsoon the harbor
is entirely deserted. On a small point, which forms a haven, only
capable of sheltering vessels of not more than a hundred tons, stands
the custom-house, a neat edifice, not very large, with a pretty corri
dor running round the lower story, surmounted by a sort of piazza
and balustrade, from which there is a good view of the roads. Dou
bling close round this point, which is rocky and perhaps twenty feet
high, the boat floated on a smooth surface, and we came in sight of a
narrow wooden jetty projecting some yards frora the shore for the
convenience of landing. On the left side of this lake-like little har
bor was a number of the large dhonies above described, securely

158 costume of the ceylonese.
moored by four or fiye wooden anchors, in shape of our metal ones,
but owing their weight to a number of stones lashed to the shank and
flukes— an extra one hung from the bows of each vessel, and the ca
bles led over the stern. On the right was a grove of trees {Hibiscus
populneus) of beautiful foliage, thickly sprinkled with large yellow
flowers, which at a short distance might be mistaken for fruit. In
front of us, amongst the Hibiscus trees were piles of timber, and we
now and then caught tiie glimpse of a naked Indian, poised on the
elevated end of a log, which he was slitting into planks. On the
jetty was a number of Ceylonese hoisting out the lading ofa boat by
a derrick. We observed all these things en passant just before we
stepped from the gig.
The islanders were encostumed differently from any individuals I
had hitherto seen in the east; some had on vests, left unbuttoned, ex
posing their naked bodies and arms, and all wore a cloth of inde
scribable pattern, in gay colors, wrapped about the waist, and hang
ing below the knees like a petticoat; but the most peculiar feature in
the dress of the men was their long hair turned up in a feminine
knot, and secured to the back of the head with a tortoise shell comb.
At the door of the Master Attendant's office, which stands on the
left side of the way, not far from the arched entrance of the fort, we
were met by a Ceylonese, or rather Cingalese, whose long hair was
secured in a knot on the back of his head by a large comb. He wore
a dark green cloth coat, armed with a profusion of large jet buttons,
and long button-holes, which may have been cut after the Portu
guese fashion of three centuries ago, for it had little or no collar at
all, and the breast had a gentie swell that ended at the knee in a
very latitudinous tail. His white vest was secured from the throat,
half way down his person, with jet buttons; and, to descend to farther
minutise, a pair of loose pantaloons of dark color, not long enough to
conceal his bare ankles, and a pair of sharp-toed slippers, completed
the costume of a very polite individual, in spite of his dark skin, and,
to us, strange habiliments.
Captain James Steuart, the Master Attendant, who visited the ship
at the earliest moment after our arrival, conducted us to pay our re
spects to Sir Robert Wilmot Horton, the Governor and Captain-
General of Ceylon. We walked through the arch-way and turned
to the left, into a street, a hundred yards long, principally occupied
by storethouses and guard-rooms of soldiers on duty. The healthful
looks of H. B. M. troops, met at every few yards throughout the

159
fort, were the very best evidence of the salubrity of Colombo, when
it is recollected that most of them have been exposed to the influ
ence of its climate for seven years.
Passing a thick wall, we came upon a green esplanade, the mar
gins of which, on two sides, are planted with shade trees. Near this
parade ground stands a pile, built in the Dutch style, called the
" King's House," which is the residence of the governor. Part of
the edifice was being repaired. Not long since, the whole tile roof of
the raain building slid off, and exposed the palin-leaf thatching. Un
der a lofty portico an English sentinel was pacing back and forth,
and within the tiireshold a porter, in a most theatrical garb, met us,
and announced our names. In a few minutes His Excellency re
ceived us, in a most hospitably courteous manner, in a long hall that
opened upon a fine corridor, or, as it is termed in the east, veranda,
that looks upon a garden at the back of the house, which is almost
hidden on all sides by trees of beautiful foliage.
After the interview, which impressed us very favourably of the
governor, I visited the Colombo library, which contains about ten
thousand volumes, ranged in a long airy hall, furnished with chairs,
sofas, and tables, upon which may be seen the best daily journals
and the leading periodicals of England and India. It is freely open
to strangers, and the librarian is ever ready to wait upon the vi
siters. Captain Steuart had procured for me an invitation to witness a
battle between a mangouste and a cobra di capello, among the
most poisonous serpents of India, at the house and under the di
rection of Dr. J. Kinnis, Staff Assistant Surgeon and Superinten
dent of Vaccination in the Colombo district. At the appointed
hour I was kindly welcomed by the doctor, and was introduced to
several ladies and officers of H. B. M. Army. Dr. Kinnis is a lo
ver of natural history, and devotes a part of his leisure to its study;
and to facilitate this end, keeps a number of living animals in his
house, which, with a collection of drawings relating to the science,
were exhibited in turn. My attention was first directed to two co
bras of small size, not more than a foot long, placed separately on
plates, with glasses turned over them, and two others of the maxi
mum size were together in a wooden case with a glass door. These
were destined to contribute to the sports of the day. In the back
part of the house we saw two mangoustes, one half grown, the other
an adult, kept in separate cages; several monkeys, of different spe
cies; two civet cats; several parrots, and other species of birds, and

160 BATTLE between mangoutes and cobras.
a pair of pretty gold fishes, all alive, and apparently acquainted with
their master.
Every thing being ready, the young mangouste, not much larger
than a kitten, the adult not exceeding an ordinary weazel in size,
was brought from his cage, caressed by the doctor, who, raising one
of the glasses, seized the snake by the back of the neck, between his
finger and thumb, and then liberated it upon the floor. The snake
did not appear to be quick in its movements, but stood, with ele
vated bead and outspread hood, directing a sluggish stare, first to one
side and then another. The little mangouste was now taken by Dr.
Kinnis and soothed after the manner that is commonly used to en
courage dogs to a contest, and then placed on the floor, four or five
feet from the serpent. The animal fixed his small eyes steadily upon
his enemy for a moment, and cautiously approached a few steps, when
the snake, now on the alert, quickly struck his head at him, and the
mangouste as quickly retreated about as far as he had advanced. In
an instant the gaze of the two combatants was fixed on each other;
and in the next, the mangouste moved forward a few steps, and then
rushed like lightning upon the cobra, and, seizing his head in his
mouth, shook his prey violently, with a fierce growl, as the cat does
the unfortunate mouse tbat falls in her clutches, and then ran about
the room, first to one corner and then to the other, dragging the
snake with him, and at every pause renewing his shaking and exult
ing growl, much to the amusement of the gentlemen and fright of the
ladies, who sprang upon the chairs to get out of the triumphant man-
gouste's way.
The second part of the entertainment promised more interest, from
the greater size of the animals to be engaged. The large man
gouste was taken from his cage, but by some means escaped, and
immediately attacking the small one, attempted to rob him of his
prize. Dr. Kinnis seized the larger animal by the tail, and in his
endeavour to shake loose the hold he had fastened on the other, acci-
dently struck his head so hardly against the tile floor that he was
stunned and for several moments appeared to be lifeless. In a short
time, however, by dint of soothing treatment, he recovered suffi
cientiy to eat, and to beget a hope that he had regained his spirits
enough to fight, but in this we were disappointed, for when one of
the large cobras was brought forth, the mangouste could not be pre
vailed upon to face him for an instant.
The mangouste ( Viverra mungos, Lin.) of India is closely related
to the mangouste of Egypt, so celebrated amongst the ancients un-

VENOM OF IHE COBRA. 161
der the name of Inchneumon (Viverra Inchneumon, Lin.) but is
smaller; both have a pointed tail and a gray or brown fur; in the
Viverra mungos, more of an ashy, and in the otiier more of a fawn
color.* The large cobra was about five feet long and not less than two
inches in diameter. The peculiarity is the lateral spreading out of
the neck, behind the head when excited, presenting a mark whicb
has been compared to a pair of spectacles. It is extremely venom
ous, and, it is said, may be taught a variety of tricks; hence it is ge
nerally selected for exhibitions by the snake charmers of India.
When brought out upon the floor, the animal did not raise its head
nor spread its hood, until irritated; it then raised up and moved
slowly. As the snake cannot spring forward more than the distance
that the head can be elevated frora the ground — half the length —
it can be no difficult matter to get out of its way, if perceived in
time. Finding the mangouste would not fight. Dr. Kinnis pressed the
serpent to the ground with a cane, and, seizing it behind the head
between the finger and thumb, he pressed back a fold of the gum
with a needle, and exhibited to us the fangs, which were very small
and very sharp. The venom, which is of a dark greenish color, is
secreted by a gland under the eye, and is poured through a minute
canal in the tooth into any wound it may make. It appears that the
secretion of the poison only goes forward when the animal is in a
state of irritation, and then the gland is very active and the quantity
poured forth is considerable; but the secretive power is limited to
time, for at the end of a few minutes the fluid, at first so deadly, be
comes comparatively harmless. To hold the animal requires con
siderable force, and a friend seized the body of the snake with both
bands to prevent his forcing himself out of tbe grasp of the doctor,
who by some such accident was bitten, a few days before by the same
cobra, in the fleshy part of the hand; but the wound was imme
diately excised, and healed without any bad consequences.
The cobra was restored to the companionship of its fellow, whicb
he had bitten a day or two before, when both were angry; the
wounded animal was languid and listiess, probably from tiie effects
of the poison. A half grown chicken was put in with them. It
stood upon the folds of the sick cobra while the other struck it two
or three blows, and then sunk down, taking no farther notice of the
• Cuvier's Animal Kingdom,
21

162 COLUBER  MUSEUM — HAMPARTS.
bird, which gazed in silent consternation at its assailant. At the end
of five minutes it was liberated, and seemed to be perfectly well.
The party now adjourned to the museum, which has been recently
established under the direction of Dr. Kinnis, where we had a far
ther evidence of his predilection for snakes, in a very large coluber,
kept in a wooden box without any fastening whatever; but the Doc
tor assured us it was perfectly harmless, and roused it with a stick.
He presented it a half grown fowl, which the reptile surrounded with
its folds, gradually drawing them tight, until the bird gave cries of
distress. As some time would elapse before the coluber would
begin to swallow it, vve were shown two chltahs or hunting tigers of
India — two beautiful animals — and a cassowary from New South
Wales, which one of the chitahshad killed that morning. We then
walked through the museum, which contains small collections of
mammalia, birds, minerals, shells, &c., and a number of anatomical
preparations of different kinds. The examination occupied proba
bly a half hour, and, on our return, we found the coluber just begin
ning to swallow the chicken entire and head-foremost, slowly forcing
it down his throat by pressing the body into his mouth by his own
folds, and ten minutes elapsed before it entirely disappeared; a meal
of this kind, given once a month, is ample for sustaining the reptile's
life. It was late in the afternoon when we took leave of the party, and
directed our walk to the ramparts of the fort, which was built by the
Dutch, and according to Cordiner, is a mile and a quarter in circum
ference, has seven bastions, connected by curtains and is defended
by three hundred pieces of cannon.* Two-thirds of it are encom
passed by the sea and the remaining third by a lake of fresh water.
Narrow necks of land or causeways connect it with the main on
either hand. It has six gates, and was taken from the Dutch on the
15th of February, 1796.
The ramparts are covered with a beautiful green sward, and the
side towards the road, leading to Point de Galle, presents several
very picturesque views of the lake, and of slave island in its centre, so
called from having been the abode of slaves under the Dutch dynasty.
An hour before sunset the whole world of Colo.nbo is in parade; the
esplanade is covered with manoeuvring troops, and the Galle road
is crowded with carriages and equipages of various descriptions, and
• A description of Cej'lon by the Eev. James Cordiner, A. M., Late Chaplain
to the Garrison at Colombo. 2 vols, quarto. London, 1807.

ISLAND OF CEYLON. 163
ladies and gentlemen on horseback, with a pretty sprinkling of pedes
trians. The cocoanut forests or groves beyond the esplanade, gentiy
moved by the dying sea-breeze, the rich green of a tropical vegetation,
snug retreats beneath the shade, lighted by the last rays of the sun,
fast sinking upon the expanded ocean, presented a scene as enchant
ing to my senses as any of the kind I have hitherto witnessed.

CHAPTER XVII.
SKETCHES IN CEYLON.
December, 1835.
The island of Ceylon — the Taprobane of the Greeks and Romans,
and by some old writers mentioned under the name of Selan, Sing-
hala, Serendib and Lanka — lies between the parallels of five degrees
and fifty-six minutes, and nine degrees fifty minutes north latitude;
and between the meridians of eighty and eighty-two degrees of longi
tude east from Greenwich. Its extreme length is two hundred and
seventy, and its extreme breadth one hundred and forty-five miles.
Its configuration has been compared to that of a pear, and its aver
age breadth is about one hundred miles, with a superficies measuring
24,448, square miles. It is mentioned in the writings of Pliny, Di
onysius and Ovid. On the south and east, its shores are washed by
the great Indian ocean, and on the west, it is separated from the coast
of Coromandel by the gulf of Manaar; the northern point stretches
into the bay of Bengal and the southern extremity extends nearly
two degrees south of cape Comorin. The nearest passage to the
Indian peninsula,, is by the small islandsof Manaar and Ramisseram;
commonly called Rama's or Adam's bridge, before alluded to, and
measures thirty railes. On Ramisseram there are still several Boud
hist temples of great antiquity.
The surface of Ceylon is mountainous in the centre, broken into
valleys and plains, while the margin is low, and in some places marshy.

164 POPULATION OF OEYLOV.
It is naturally well watered by fine rivers and mountain streams, and,
in the palmy days of the once splendid capital of Anooraadhapoora,
possessed aruticial tanks and canals, made by the ancient monarchs
of Kandy. The soil is clothed in a luxuriant growth of an extensive
variety oftropical plants, often woven together in impenetrable jungles,
the secure retreat of wild beasts and serpents, and its mountains
present us wilh a variety of gems and minerals; but hitherto, and
even at present, the want of practicable roads, deprives the inhabi
tants of a great part of their natural wealth. This evil must soon
disappear before the ppiiit which is abroad for internal improvement,
and for ameliorating the condition of the pupulatioti. Though in
ternal communication be difiicult, the island has ports through which
intercour.se may be held with the whole world; indeed, befiire its
discovery by the Portuguese, Ceylon was the commercial enlrepot,
in the trade carried on between the countries of the far east and
those upon the Persian gulf and Red Sea. On the north-eastern coast
is Trincomalee, on tiie southern, Point de Galle, both fine havens,
and on the western, Colombo, which is but a roadstead; the two
latter are of the most commercial importance, while the former affords
a place of rendezvous or head quarters for the vessels of the British
squadrons serving in India.
When the Portuguese first visited Ceylon, they found it inhabited
by two tribes or nations differing widely from each other. Those
living on the north part of the island were called Bedas, and, like
the Scotch Highlanders, were associated in warlike tribes undei- a
patriarchal government. The Singhalese who resided on the soul hern
extremity of the island, compared with the Bedas, were civilized,
wearing clothes and being divided into castes as in India. They
were Boudhists, but the Bedas had no religion. They were also
warlike, and often prevailed over Europeans in consequence of their
superior knowledge of the mountainous country.*
The population of the island consists of Singhalese, Moors, Malays,
Portuguese, Dutch, English and a few American missionaries esta
blished at Jaffna. The following table, published in the " Ceylon
Almanac," for 1835, is a census taken in 1833, derived from the re
ports of the government agents.
• Establecimientos Ultramarinos.

Kcliirn olthc Population, and of the J?IarriascH, lliriliN, nnd l>cathH in Coylon,
lor 18»:i.

i:

Id

iiK!
¦2;^
DiNnin T.
Id
S.
Wlhthiim,
4,4,V.!
Soil riihifv,
f,, ().,'-!
Kahi i.u:v,
4,H9.i
NoKTIIKIlN,
6,0.'..:
CKNTlUr^
3,0l(.
Tcli.l,
2't.4'IH
" VVii
1 1(«.
Plum II|,»(1KK.* 1
'A7.
i B
1
1
1,7.14 1,70 1
! 14,402
2ii,iy(i
Wl .'>!'.)
i:r-;,riHO
1'J1,'1H7
M\. •J.W\
¦J.VJ.T.'i
'.r-',.'.77
MW 'Ua
ion,.;r-.'
1()H,'J7J
(i5 .'i.'>
(¦..|.,.'.77
.'.(i,:i.v!
l,:;7H '.!,')¦.'(,
,'i(i.'),'.H)(i
.',I'),HH4
:j9 I
0
1 J, I (¦)(
.|.|.u
i:;,:!(;fi
3r.H 335 0
11,44!) 511
12.f).13
Tin
Al,
«f!,
J
^
g
1 1
KM
>,'lf),.5';7
'ji:i,'j.;H
i:i:;,,'in
r.!'.!,:Mi
ii'.it.
¦1'.;
'j(i,(i';!i
'2'.!,7H.;
(i(iO
10
rjo.'.iDi
I'Jo.k;;!
(i.-,7
¦to
G,'i,OHJ
.'1(1,0 IB
4,4H8
4'-!
58'.!,C,.',0
.'¦.l.'>,443
8,ns
46
riUIMIlNH l'l>11't.UV M) IN
s,
5n
i(;.'i,'ioH
7,780
70, ¦H'.'
K,.|.!).',
0 7;!:;
1, '.!.',(,
.')0,.!0M
.',,:;:i'.i
'M.CiOH
'J,0H7
.!.'.,0I7
!.'.4,4..'.0
io,.'.;i81 0,744.'.',(¦) 10
'..'0,ll'.>(l 'j,:io()
47,10'..^
• ¦
" —
-.
n
t
^
10,'.!7H
;),.';i2
9,1. '56
7,170 l,07(i
5,978
2,HH4 .'lOI
948
i,:i'j'j:),«io
G,298
Nd ictiini kept. 1
.!l,6:VI
H,8'.)0
¦2'2,3Ho|
I'opuliilioii (ifCrylon, l.l'Jti.HOH.
N. II. HniiK- (.r ll.c Hii.iillrr disUicU Imvc. iu.l l.rcn rel.n'[ic<l.
. Tli..rc, nm, I li.ilinvr, very fiiw Ni.uri.i.K iu ()"yl"il I H'" 1"""""" ""'"'"'' '" ""' ""'"" "^ "'" ''¦""' '•""» OOmploXlOn, Which In qullo Ul durk aa llml 01
many inltuM ulNisKruoH.
166 MOKTALITY IN OEYLON.
The above fable exhibits a very decided preponderance in the
number of male over the female population, amounting to 194,423,
attributable to the practice of female infanticide, whicb has been
abandoned only within a short time. The average number of inha
bitants to the square mile is forty-six, and the average mortality to
the whole population appears to be less than two per cent., from
which fact an estimate of the salubrity of the cHmate may be formed.
The accidental deaths appear to be large, if we may judge from the
following statement, found in the "Ceylon Almanac" for 1835.
" From the reports sent into the Colonial Secretary from the several
magistrates, it appears that there have been two hundred and twenty-
two inquests (Coroner's) held during the last year, (1834,) and the
following verdicts have been returned: —
By falls from trees, . ... - 49
Falling into wells, ... - 25
Accidentally drowned, . - 41
Fall of houses, ..---- 2
By a gun bursting, - - - - 1
Accidentally shot, .... - 3
By other casualties, ..... 5
From bites of serpents, - - . - 20
Killed by elephants, ... - 13 "
" by wild hogs, - . . 4
Suicide by hanging, (English?)- ... 18
" by drowning, .... 6
From the violence of others, ... 13
DrLinkenness, ...--- 8
Natural sickness, - - . 14
Total, - - 222

Of the population, a very small proportion is christianized, the
majority being Boudhists, Hindoos, and Mohammedans; yet there
can be no doubt that the efforts of the several religious missions in
Ceylon have met with more success than in any other part of India;
and what may be flattering lo our national pride at least, though they
have been passed over in silence by the compilers of the " Historical
and Descripliveaccount of British India," published in the "Family
Library," the American missionaries are acknowledged on all hands
to be more exemplary and more useful, and more-eminently success
ful than any other religious people in India. The omission referred

MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENTS. 167
to in the above work has been corrected in a note by the editor of the
American edition. Nor is any mention whatever made of the Wes
leyan Mission, in a work pretending to give an account of the pre
sent condition of India; perhaps the compilers, (all distinguished
men,) like the English residents there, do not consider Ceylon to be
apart of India, notwithstanding that Bishop Heber visited it, in 1825,
as a part of his diocess. But let us not complain of the compilers'
want of care in this point, for it is in perfect keeping with the inde
finite and obscure manner in which they have handled every subject
they pretend to treat.
The American mission establishments at Jalfna, (Ceylon) com
menced in 1816, and the mission occupies seven stations in the dis
trict, viz: Tillipally, Batticotta, Oodooville, Ponditeripo, Manepy,
Chavagacherry and Varany. The missionary Seminary or High School
at Batticotta, contains seven native teachers, ten students in christian
theology, eighty-four students in English and the elements of science,
twenty students pursuing the same branches in Tamul only, besides
eight day scholars, making a total of one hundred and twenty-nine.
In the female central school at Oodooville, under tiie superinten
dence of Mrs. Spaulding, there are fifty-one girls, who are fed, clothed
and instructed at the expense of the mission.
In connexion with the mission, there are one hundred and twenty-
three native free schools, distributed in eighteen parishes, instructing
4,241 boys and 821 giris, making together, 5,062. The printing esta
blishment of the mission, at Manepy, has two presses employed.
The Wesleyan mission was established in 1814, and has at present
the following schools at its different stations, viz:

Stations.

Schools.

Boys.

Girls

Colombo and Negombo

8

505

47

Kurnegalle

16

540

.J 16

Caltura

17

834

69

Galle

11

580

63

Matura

12

501

144

Morawa Korle

3

80

12

Totals 67 3040 451
The total number of teachers, male and female, is 95; besides which,
the district employs 14 or 15 salaried catechists, who assist in the su
perintendence of the schools, and conduct public worship on sabbath

168 MISSIONARY ESTABLISHMENTS.
The mission has had a printing establishment in Colombo since its
commencement, which at present employs one press, chiefly printing
for the Colombo Auxiliary Bible Society, and the Colombo Auxiliary
Religious Tract Society.
The Roman Catholic mission in Ceylon, was established by the ve
nerable Father, Jose Vas, of the congregation of the oratory of St.
Philip Neri, in 1687, and in 1833, had sixty-three private schools,
distributed in the different provinces under its direction.
Such is the statistical condition of three missions, unnoticed by the
learned compilers above referred to, and now let us see how the Eng
lish mission will compare with them: then the reader may decide whe
ther the American mission is unworthy of notice, particularly when it
is remembered that the result of its labors, is to be of no little poli
tical advantage to the British interests in the East.
The Ceylon mission of the Church Missionary Society was esta
blished in 1818. It occupies four stations, viz.; Cotta, Kandy, Nel-
lore and Baddagamma.
At Nelloreand at Baddagamma, there are seminaries in which boys
are boarded and educated gratuitously; and at Cotta there is a Chris
tian institution where a select number of promising youths are clothed
and boarded, and receive a superior education, sufficient to qualify
them for assistant missionaries, or as may be considered otherwise
eligible. Its schools are 52, containing 1325 boys, 229 girls, 65 youths and
adults — total 1619. There are 83 native teachers and assistants.
At Cotta there are printing and book-binding establishments.
The Baptist mission was instituted in the year 1812, by the Rev.
J. Chater. It has three chapels in Colombo, situated in the fort, the
Pettah and the Grand Pass, where the gospel is preached in the Eng
lish, Portuguese, and Singhalese languages. Besides these places
erected for religious worship, service is performed in several of the
school rooms in Colombo, and in many around Colombo and Hang-
welle. In and around Colombo there are 14 day-schools, containing 500
children — of whom nearly a third part is females. These chddren
are instructed in the fundamental principles of Christianity, as the
great object kept in view is their spiritual benefit. Two Sunday
schools are attached to the mission — in the Chapel, in the Pettah and
at the Grand Pass.* ¦* Ceylon Almanac.

CLIMATE  DISEASES  VEGETABLE PRODUCTS.

169

Besides the above means of education, tiiere were, in 1833, 703
private, 17 government, and 5 regimental schools, which, since that
time, have been probably increased in number. The whole number
of schools were then as follows:

Private,

703

American mission.

125

Wesleyan mission.
Church mission, -
67
52
>
Protestant,
983
Baptist mission.
Government,
Regimental,* Catholic (private,)
1417 5J
63
Total,
63
1Q45
All these institutions must exercise a powerful effect upon the
prosperity of Ceylon, by diffusing general and christian knowledge,
and thus ameliorating the condition of the people; and throwing aside
all philanthropic considerations, (which are considered Utopian by~a
number of people,) must advantageously influence the political ad
vancement of fhe island and improve its state of society.
The climate of Ceylon differs from most others in this region, in
possessing, though so near the equator, an equable temperature, a re
gular succession of land and sea breezes, and frequent rains at irre
gular intervals. While the belt of coast, about sixty miles broad,
enjoys all the characteristics ofa tropical climate, the usual daily va
riation of temperature being from 76° to 86° F., the interior affords
cooler regions, to which the invalid may retire to recruit his health,
where he may find frosty mornings, and even ice, to invigorate the
system, so liable to become relaxed after any considerable residence
in the equatorial regions.
The most common diseases are dysentery, diarrhoea, consumption,
elephantiasis, intermittent and miasmatic fevers; small pox is not
an infrequent disease, notwithstanding the extensive vaccine es
tablishment. The products of vegetation in Ceylon are numerous and valuable.
The fruits are the mango, the pumplemose, pummalo, or shaddock,
the orange, the pine-apple (a wild species said to be poisonous) ba
nanas, &c.; but neither European fruits nor vegetables flourish on the
* The regimental schools are exclusively, I believe, for the instruction of sol
diers' children. 22
170

HICE  COFFEE— PEPPER  CINNAMON.

coast. At a new settiement called Newura Ellia and at Kandy, po
tatoes of very good quality have been produced for several years.
Rice, the chief article of native diet, is grown, but not in sufficient
quantity for the consumption of the island; the average annual im
portation, from 1819 to 1828, inclusive, was 1,251,680 pariahs (the
parrah of rice being from 42 to 46 lbs.,) equal to 870,784 bushels;
one-third more than the annual importation under the Dutch admin
istration.* Yet, that the island can be made capable of producing
suificient grairr for the consumption of its inhabitants, is an opinion
I have seen advanced in several communications made to the "Co
lombo Journal " and " Ceylon Gazette. " Strange to say, rice pays an
import duty of two pence per parrah, and all other grain five pence.
Coffee is grown, and has been lately exported in considerable
quantities. To encourage the cultivation of pepper, the government
advertised, on the 17th November, 1827, that the export and import
ware-house keeper at Colombo, and the collector of Galle, would
receive any pepper of Ceylon growth that might be offered at nine
shillings the parrah, which produced the following result.
PURCHASE OF PEPPER BY THE GOVERNMENT.

Tear.

ParraLs.

Value. 1

£

s

18271828 1829 1830
1831

46
185
5495 6955

20 82
24723029

1417 15
15

12,681

5606

1

Cinnamon is the most profitable of the vegetable productions of
Ceylon, and yields a considerable revenue to the government, being
for 1831, not less than 106,434, pounds steriing. Since 1832, how
ever, several very important changes in the law relating to it have
been made. Previous to that period, it was a monopoly in the hands
of tbe East India Company, and its cultivation was saddled with
many onerous restrictions. At present it is freely cultivated, and
may be exported to any port in the world, on paying a duty of three
shillings thepound. The value of thecinnamon exported in 1834 was
J32,741Ai, an amountvery much less than forseveral previous years.

* A brief Appeal to the Government of Great Britain in behalf of the Inhabitants
of Ceylon. 12mo. p. 25. Colombo, 1835.

PUODUOTIONS  MINERALS  ANIMALS. 171
Cotton, sugar, tobacco, opium, indigo and silk are also produced
in small quantities, and encouragement is only wanting to extend
their cultivation. Besides these, there is the cocoanut tree, produ
cing a plentiful supply of oil, and the material for coir rope; the ebony,
the calamander, the satin wood, all used in the manufacture of the
finest kinds of household furniture; the Sappan tree, affording a rich
dye; the areca nut and cajoo trees; the bread fruit and jack trees,
and many others that I may not mention.
The most profitable mineral production is plumbago, which is ex
ported in considerable quantities. There is iron ore in plenty, some
quicksilver, sulphur, and a great variety of precious stones, among
which may be enumerated, red, green, blue, white and honey tour
malins; yellowish and greenish topaz; rubies of every shade; gar
nets, cinnamon stones, robals and hyacinths, the two last some
times passed for rubies; blue, green, and white or water and star
sapphire; cat's eye, agate, jaspar, sardonyx; white, yellow, brown
and black crystal, and that beautiful variety of feldspar called moon
stone. Among the animals elephants stand first. They are very nume
rous, and have become so destructive to the rice plantations, that a
reward of three shillings is paid by the government for every tail — the
head being too large for a trophy — that is brought. One of the
chief sports in the island is elephant shooting, which is not without
danger, and one gentleman was mentioned to us who has killed more
than four hundred; but the hunts, as described by Cordiner, have been
for many years abandoned. The tusks are sold for ivory, and their
huge grinders are manufactured into knife-handles, snuff-boxes, &c.
Tame elephants are employed for various purposes, for draught in
carts, for ploughing and for piling timber.
The water buffalo, similar to that seen at Bombay, and on the
island of Sumatra; several varieties of deer, among which are the
spotted deer, the elk and a species not larger than a rabbit, called
the moose-deer: chitahs or hunting tigers, wild cats, jackals, white-
faced bears, monkeys of various species; the mangouste, a natural
enemy of serpents, and which is said to protect itself by eating of the
orphiorhiza mungos, of tha Strychnos colubrinu, and of the oji/jfo-
xylon serpentinum, plants which have the reputation of being anti
dotes to the poison of venomous snakes; a musk-rat, or perfuming
shrew, not much larger than the domestic mouse, and hogs, are all
natives of the island. Horses, sheep and goats are imported, as well
as turkeys, geese and fowls.

172 SALT TAX.
I Among the birds, may be mentioned the jungle fowl, (said to pos
sess the flavor of the pheasant,) snipe, green pigeons, fly-catchers,
sea-larks, wood-peckers, swallows, sparrows, tailor, honey and paddy
birds. Of the lizard tribe, there is almost every variety. The number of
deaths from the bite of reptiles, as reported, shows that they are nu
merous: at their head stands the cobra di capello, and next, perhaps,
the coluber, or, as travellers call it, boa.
The insects are numerous, and some of them are very beautiful.
The most remarkable is the leaf- fly, which assumes the color of the
leaf upon which it rests; and in a prepared state may be imposed
upon one as a dry leaf. There is an extensive variety of beautiful
beetles, and a host of white, red and black ants, which are most an
noying and destructive.*
Besides all these riches, the waters abound in excellent fish, among
which the Scir fish, or Ceylon salmon, stands pre-eminent. But fishing
is oppressed by a tithe tax, which is farmed out to speculators and by
them collected in kind. The revenue from this source in 1833,
amounted to £6,479 14s. 7id. Still there is another clog upon the
labor of the fisherman, in the enormous tax of from eight hundred to
one thousand per cent, on salt, of which large quantities are made
on the island. In 1833 this tax yielded no less, than;S29,044 IZs.S^d.
It is farmed in the same way as that on fish; and a writer attempts to
justify it on the principle, that salt being an article of universal
consumption, the tax falls equally on all classes of inhabitants;
which would be a true deduction, perhaps, if the premises were cor
rect; for, though salt be an article of universal consumption, and all
consume an equal quantity, the tax falls heaviest upon the poor for
this very reason. If the rich man consumed salt in a quantity pro
portionate to his means, the tax then might be said to bear equally
on all; but this equality appears to be like that in a capitation tax,
where the amount is not so much objected to, were it not for the
difficulty some of the poor find, of obtaining the means to pay it.
Perhaps the best argument in favor of the salt tax, is, that the people
have always been accustomed to it, and therefore do not feel the
burden. It seems to operate as a complete bar to trading in salted
fish for the interior, which, were salt at eight hundred or a thousand
per cent, cheaper, would become of importance, at least to one of the
classes of industrious poor. Salt is worth about a cent a pound, and
the wages ofa laborer are twelve and a half cents a day.
* Cordiner's Description.

COMMERCE  GOVERNMENT. 173
The commerce of Ceylon is not very extensive, having to contend
with the common difficulties of colonies, as well as those peculiar to
itself;— want of roads in particular. The exports to Europe consist
chiefly of cinnamon, pepper, coffee, cocoanut-oil, plumbago, cordage,
arrack, cardammums, elephant-tusks, deer-horns, tortoise-shell,
(chiefly from the Maldive islands) ebony, satin-wood, &c., and the
returns are all kinds of European manufactures. To the British co
lonies are exported arrack, coffee, areca-nuts, copperahs, cocoanuts,
hookah-shells, coir, nipera lath, bichos do mar, shark-fins, fish-oil, &c.;
and, in return, rice, paddy, wheat, cloth, silk, sugar, spices, drugs, &c.,
are imported. There is also an internal trade carried on between
the several districts or provinces, both by land and water.*
The following table shows the number of merchant vessels which
anchored in the several ports of Ceylon in the year 1834. The
greater part of those that arrived at Colombo were from the west
ward of the cape of Good Hope; all those at the other ports arrived
from places lying east of it.
Nation. Ships. Btigg. Porta.

English, French,

34 4

5^0 V

Colombo.

American,

1

0)

English,
Portuguese,English, Id.

11 0 -
2 8

1
2 0

Galle. Trincomalee. Point Pedro.t

Id.

5

2

Tondemai'.^:

Id.

5

1

Hambantott.

Total, 70 16
The government of Ceylon is managed, under a colonial charter
from the British crown, by a governor, who is also commander-in-
chief and vice admiral, aided by executive and legislative councils,
the latter being constituted of Englishmen and natives. The judi
ciary consists of a supreme and inferior courts; vice admiralty and
district courts, &c. The government is sustained, in a measure, by
* Ceylon Gazetteer, by Simon Casie Chitty, Modliar. Ceylon. Cotta Church
Mission Press, 1835.
f From this port, during the same year, there was exported to Mauritius and to
India 115,689 parrahs of salt.
t In 1834^ the export of salt from this port was 258,015 parrahs.

174

STATEMENT OF THE

the presence of II. B. M. 58th, 61st, 78th and 97th regiments of
foot, and H. B. M. Ceylon Rifle regiment. At present, however,
there is very little to be apprehended, the affairs of the island being
in a tranquil and prosperous state.
The revenue of the colony is in a more flourishing condition than
that of any other of His Majesty's colonies: the sources whence it is
derived will be seen by reference to the following table; and one
cannot help congratulating himself, as an American, that the people of
the United States are free from many of the onerous exactions on
labor which we there see set forth. Indeed, it may be asserted,
without fear of contradiction, that we are as free, as happy, as pros
perous, if not very much more so, than any people on the face of the
globe.

AN EXACT STATEMENT OF THE REVENUE OF
CEYLON FOR THE YEAR 1833.
£ s. d.

II^1

Cinnamon, cinnamon and clove oils — sale of in England
and Ceylon,* 
Sea customs — duty on exports and imports, port clear
ances, &c. .... ...
Pearl fishery (at Condatchy,) (monopoly,) ...
rPaddy farms, 
'g -2 J Fine grain farms, . . . - .
?3 !M I ^^¦'''^n farms, ....
^ LDuty on timber.f . . . -
"Ferry tolls, .......
Bridge tolls, - .....
Canal tolls, .......
Cart tolls, 
Lock tolls, .......
^Honorary tax,-]- -.'....
g ("Arrack and toddyl: farms, ....
§ J Duty on arrack stills, .....
.§ j Gaming and cock-fighting farms, ...
*-5 l_W eights and measures — stamping and sale of, .
Auction duty, - ...
Salt farms, (a tithe,) - .....
Fish farms. Ditto, 
Tobacco tithes. Ditto, .......
Commutation tax,f .....
Blank stamps — sale of, - . ....
Judicial stamps — sale of, and fees on Judicial process of
Supreme Court, .... . .
Carried forward, ....

165,270

.

64,419

12

25,043

10

32,396

18

2,993

16

1,103

10

129

15

2,249

7

2,684

8

79

6

68

1

7

10

133

8

31,268

4

1,644

7

344.

10

65

2

182

4

29,044

12

6,479

14

174

12

1,799

17

3,121

0

10,172

5
16

380,876

4
7 6J
11 6^9i5in
2
0| 9i 6
14
9
Sin
34 9i
04

24

* These articles are received by the government at fixed rates in payment of
taxes. •j- Since abolished.
^ Liquors obtained from the cocoanut tree.

REVENUE OF CEYLON.

175

Brought forw.ird, ...
Post office, 
Chank fishery,' (a monopoly,) 
Pearl oysters — saleof at Trincomalee, . . . -
Total fixed revenue, . - - •
Premium on sale of bills, &c.
Interest on luTears of rents, &c. 
Portion of interest paid to government by the Loan Board,
Black pepper — sale of in England and Ceylon,

Cocoanut oil.

do.

do.

do.

Peradenia coffee.

do.

do.

do. -

Kekuna oil.

do.

do.

do. -

Colombo Journal,

do.

do.

do.

Lands and houses — rents and sale of.
Tithes redeemed, ........
Pearl-sand sifting — rent of, - - . . -
Arrack, gardening, and bazaai- farms, rented at the pearl
fisheiy at Candatchy, .....
Vedderatte tiibute — sale of, {since abolished,)
Masters attendant — hire of boats, &c. . . . -
Commissariat and colonial stores, provisions, &c. — sale of,
and stoppages for issues to troops.
Government cattle — sale of, . - ...
Gunpowder — sale of, -.-..- -
Rice and p.iddy — sale of, and loans recovered by collect
ors, .. .......
Hospital surplus, . - ....
Effects of the deceased men of the pioneer — elephant and
bullock establishments — pay of deserted men, &c.
Difference of pay of the late superintendent of the cinna
mon department refunded, ..-.-.
Sorting and embalming cinnamon — receipts for.
Sundry incidental receipts of tlie treasury, . . .
Fines and forfeitures, - - . .
Total incidental receipts, -
Receipts in aid of revenue,
SuaoiAiiT.
Arrears of revenue of former years, . - .
Fixed, - ....
Incidental, ... . .
Receipts in aid of revenue, - .

The total expenditure for the same period was £331,764, leaving a surplus
revenue of £105,791.
* Chank shells are made into bracelets and bangles, wluch are worn by fe
males in almost all parts of India.

380,876

16

1,823

8

13

10

2

5

382,716

0

4,144

9

757

14

i74:

4

7,130

17

7,893

13

67

7

20

9

683

2

817

7

52

9

16

19

35

5

67

7

6

17

23,107

7

44

9

155

487

12

100

2

24

9

26

13

74

8

1,37

17

991

17

47,318

5

2,258

16

5,263

4

382,716

0

47,318

5

2,258

16

437,556

6

176 SINGHALESE HISTORY.
Of the history of Ceylon previous to the discovery by the Portu
guese in 1505, very little was known, until G. Tumour, Esq. of the
Ceylon civil service, obtained a knowledge of the Pall language and
translated a manuscript, written on the leaves of the talipot tree,
entitled Maha Wanse. Mr. Tumour* obtained a transcript bf the
work in 1827, and communicated to the editor of the Ceylon Alma
nac, an " Epitome of the History of Ceylon," containing a brief no
tice of one hundred and sixty-five Singhalese sovereigns, beginning
with Wejaya, who ascended the throne B. C. 543, and ending with
Sree Wickrema Raajasingha, who succeeded to the sovereignty in
1798. He was the last king of Kandy. In 1815, the seventeenth
year of his reign, he was deposed by the English and imprisoned at
Vellore, (Madras country) where he died in 1832, leaving a son born
during his captivity. Since 1815, the whole island has been under
the dominion of the British government.
The Rev. D. Poor, American missionary at Jaffna, has also com
municated to the Ceylon Almanac, a translation of an extract from
the Ramayanam, accounting for the origin of the island of Ceylon.
It is short and not uninteresting, and is therefore transcribed for the
benefit of the reader.
" ' Listen, 0 ye mighty ones ! ' said the divine architect to the
three giants who consulted him as to the most suitable place for
building a royal city — ' Listen. In former times the thousand-headed
hydra, and the gods of winds had a fierce contention between them
selves, as to which of them was the greater. Each of them obstinately
insisted that he himself was superior to the other, in strength and
greatness, in honor and glory. At length they resolved to settle the
controversy by putting their pretentions to the test, in presence of
all the gods.
" At the time appointed for the contest, the thousand-headed hydra
ascended the golden mountain Marw, which has one thousand and
eight lofty summits, and is nearly one and a half million of miles in
height; he spread out his thousand heads, firmly clasping the nume
rous summits of the mountain so that no part of it was at that time
visible. " Having thus taken his position, he defied his antagonist to dis
lodge him. The god of winds, being wrought to the highest fury,
¦* This gentleman is about publishing the result of his labors and indlgations
in the Pall and Singhalese languages.

SINGHALESE HISTORY. 177
instantiy rushed forth, and with a concentialion of those mighty en
ergies by which he is wont, at the time of a universal deluge, to dis
solve rocks into their five elements, and to scatter them to the winds,
he raged and roared furiously, beat his foe; but the hydra remained
unmoved. The god of winds perceiving that he was defeated and
being unable to endure the disgrace that must ensue, became con
tracted in his form and sneaked away, and concealed himself, to
gether with his wonted energies, in a cavity of a mountain. In con
sequence of this concealment, the inhabitants of the upper and lower
regions, both gods and men, being deprived of wind, panted, fainted
and swooned; they were parched, melted and burned, like waxen
dolls before a furnace. At this time of general consternation and
distress, the gods, demigods and sages, in one vast procession, pro
ceeded to the foot of the mountain, prostrated themselves before the
thousand-headed hydra, and thus addressed him: 'Aft thou not in
deed the protector of the universe? Is there any one to be compared
with thee in wisdom, in power and glory? Have compassion on all
beings, and save them from their present agony.'
" The hydra being thus honored and thereby rendered propitious,
raised one of his heads a Httle, that he might leisurely survey the
prostrate multitude before him. At that time, the god of winds,
who, burning with revenge, lay watching his opportunity, said within
himself-— 'Now, is my chance. When quicker than lightning, he
darted from his concealment, and with redoubled fury poured forth
such tornadoes, as to wrench three summits from the mountain's top,
and hurled them through the regions of space in the southern or In
dian Ocean, The summits thus hurled into the ocean, raised their
stately heads far above its surface. ' Upon the very heights of those
summits,' exclaimed the three giants, ' build for us the royal city,
which we before demanded.' According to this order, a royal city
was built, to which was given the name of Lanka or Ceylon."
The Portuguese discovered the island and got footing in it in 1505.
In 1658, the Dutch got possession, and the States General held it
till 1796, when it fell into the hands of the English. From that date,
until 1802, it was under the control of the East India Company,
when it became a colony of the Royal Government, and has so re
mained ever since.
Previous to the insurrection and war in 1815, the British posses
sions, in Ceylon, formed a belt round the island, varying in breadth
from six to sixty miles; and the interior provinces which were cut
23

178 EXPOU.TS OF OEYLON.
off from all communication with the sea, belonged to the Kandyan
monarch, whose capital was in the centre of his dominions. Of his
fate mention has been already made.
The following return of exports, which is authentic, will convey
a more definite idea of the commerce of the island than any thing
we have hitherto stated.

179

Exports of the Island of Ceytoii^
From 1831 to 1834;
compiled from the returns op the several collectors of tue customs.

TOTAL VAICE Of AUTICIES EipOBTED

IN EACH TEAH.*
AUTlCLieS OF EXPORT.
1831.
1832.
1833.
1834.
C Great Britain,
£
£
£
£
206
40
187
153
Arrack to
} India,
18,587
10,058
12,237
7,681
( Foreign States,
4
2
A rpcaniifsi
\ India,
9,005
11,173
11,274
8,405
ii. 1 CLiCtllU X-o
> Foreign States,
59
73
.50
121
Arrow-root
3 Great Britain,
( India,
5 1
151 1
Aroipo
India,
15
24
25
Ammunition
India,
24
Anchors
India,
3
Asses
India,
C Great Britain,
35
13
115
Bees'-wax
1 India,
I U. S. of America,
88
7
19 7
19
[ Foreign States,
18
1
( Great Britain,
5,187
2,684
407
825
Black pepper
< India,
32
9
1,464
t Foreign States,
2
3
Black lead
S Great Britain,
\ India,
534
281
126 1
1,205
Baskets, bags,
&c.
C India,
< Great Britain,
149 2
371
82 3
49
f Foreign States,
32
65
4
2
Betel leaves and
flowers
1 ^
\ India,
5
2
4
Bicho do mar and
S India,
} Foreign States,
10,036
1,2.53
1,033
1,229
shark fins
90
Brass and copper
i India,
< Great Britain,
7
5
6
6
wares ,
( Foreign States,
1
2
• The fractional parts in these Tables have been omitted.
180

EXPORTS OF THB ISLAND OF CEYLON,

TOTAL VALUE OF AUTICLES EXPORTED

IS EACH TEAR.
ARTICLES OF EXPORT.
1831.
1832.
1833.
1834.
Boats and canoes to
India,
£
£
£
£
13
Bricks and tiles
India,
4
2
Beer
India,
360
420
396
Biscuits
India,
Bark for tanning j
leather <
India,
2
5
3
16
Brimstone
Great Britain,
India,
80
100
Blocks
India,
Buckets
India, Foreign States,
1
Books
Great Britain,
India,
65
Bandies
Great Britain,
30
India,
4
130
60
{
Great Britain,
5
13
14
7
Cocoanuts <
India,
2,654
3,172
5,594
4,231
<
Foreign States,
6
10
22
3
'Great Britain,
14,267
50,347
23,.585
31,748
Coffee
India,
5,398
4,005
2,165
5,133
Foreign States,
8
94
1,755
^U.S. of America,
2,479
260
(
Great Britain,
7,066
6,047
4,525
4,886
Cocoanut oil <
India,
152
819
1,347
219
(
Foreign States,
90
15
62
' Great Britain,
30,000
30,975
8,255
31,436
Cinnnamon
India,U.S. of America,
1
225
4
13
1,305
_ Foreign States,
9
2,817
Confectionary, '
&c. ;
Great Britain,
India,
84
4
15
19
Foreign States,
Copperahs
India,Foreign States,
725
912
1,043
1,920
'Great Britain,
73
533
397
147
Cinnamon and
U.S. of America,
6
6
clove oils
Foreign States,
.India,
190
'India,
2,824
3,237
3,294
4,653
Coir (loose)
Foreign States,
60
17
442
125
ropes, &c.
U. S. of America,
124
1,329
.Great Britain,
1,068
347
3,446
409
Calamander <
wood }
Great Britain,
7
11
India,
6
26
Chunam
India,
7
7
5
12
FROM 1831 TO 1834.

181

TOTAL VALUE OF AUTICLES EXPOllTED |

llf EACH TEAR.
ARTICLES
OF EXPORT.
1831.
1832.
1833
1834.
Camels to India,
£
£
£
£
22
C Great Britain,
334
250
214
551
Cardemoms
^ India,
( Foreign States,
f Great Britain,
\^ India,
( Foreign States,
34
3
Curry stuffs
257
87
155
173
30
2
18
C Great Britain,
1
Candles
< U S. of America,
5
( India,
117
212
52
Copper
India,
5
24
102
Chanks, or
S India,
479
736
430
1,344
chanks' rings
( Foreign States,
21
414
54
Cutlery
India,
3
Chuja, or dyeing
S India,
( Great Britain,
833
671
400
714
roofs
Carsingoes
India,
2
3
1
C India,
3
12
12
15
Cotton
< Great Britain,
( Foreign States,
1
Cocoanut shells
India,
Foreign States,
282
123
23
54
( India,
789
275
892
7
Cotton clothes
< Foreign States,
( Great Britain,
6
Cordage (Eu
rope)
> India,
Copper coin
India,
60
135
China wares
Great Britain,
Foreign States,
Casks, (fee. (emp-
India, Foreign States,
21
29
1
ty)
C Great Britain,
179
Caxpoe
¦< India,
( Foreign States,
47
Chessmen
5 Great Britain,
( India,
30 1
Canvass
India,
Cotton thread
5 Foreign States,
( India,
7
12
5
Carts
India,
Cloth (woollen)
India,
Cinnamon water
Foreign States,
1
Colored paper
India,
Corks
Foreign States,
182

EXPORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CEYLON,

TOTAL VALUE OF AUTICLES EXPOllTED

IN £ACH TEAB.
ARTICLES
OF EXPORT.
1831.
1832.
1833.
1834.
Curiosities 1
£
£
£
£
5 Great Britain,
° } India,
31 6
1.50 32
15 3
18
Cadjans
India,
Dammes, &c.
5 India,
l Foreign States,
195 4
161 4
116 1
192 1
Deer horns
Great Britain,
C Great Britain,
27
55
151
68
Ebony wood
} India,
( Foreign States,
545
442
77
607 133
Empty bottles
India,
4
Elephants
India,
303
13
60
Earthen wares
S India,
( Foreign States,
1
C Great Britain,
321
652
195
40
Furnitures
^ India,
( Foreign States,
175
279 2
60
131
Fruits and vege
S Great Britain,
( India,
tables
74
1.53
101
157
Firewood
India,
2
19
14
13
Fowling pieces
^ India,
( Foreign States,
Grinding stones
5 India,
( Foreign States,
6
2
7 2
1
Gems
India,
Gorkas
5 India,
} Foreign States,
4
15
5
3
Ghee
1 India,
( Foreign States,
236
111
137
150
41
32
6
21
Ginger
Great Britain,
3
Grease, &c.
1
India, Foreign States,
6
1
7
Grains
:
India, Foreign States,
147
1,117 2
Gunny bags
India, Foreign States,
37
44
28
Girkins
India,
Garden seeds
India,
Gum copal, &c.
3 U. S. of America
( Great Britain,
;
16
Gamboge
U. S. of America
)
1
Glass wares
India,
IC
( Great Britain,
28(
) 1,58'
1 m
> 696
Horns
< India,
( Foreign States,
2-
r r
r 35
! 738
i
Haberdashery
Great Britain,
FROM 1831 TO 1834.

183

rOTAL VALUE OF ARTICLES EXPOllTED

IS EACH
TEAIl.
ARTICLES
OF EXPORT.
1831.
1832.
1833.
1834.
Haberdashery
<) India,
'¦" I Foreign States,
£
£
£
£
1
20
Hides of deer
Great Britain,
Honey, &c.
5 India,
( Foreign States,
13
31
19
21 11
f India,
354
541
187
82
Hides and skins
i Foreign States,
76
( Great Britain,
224
1
Hats and bon
nets
> India,
Hog's lard
Foreign States,
Horses
India,
60
145
78
¦ Great Britain,
73
36
30
7
Ivory
India,
142
57
18
36
1 Foreign States,
{U.S. of America,
2
1
Iron wares
5 India,
} Foreign States,
II pe seeds
Foreign States,
Images
India,
20
Iron
India,
300
Iron chains
Foreign States,
< Great Britain,
Jewelry
< India,
( Foreign States,
155
250
2
30
Jars (empty)
India,
i India,
1,179
1,641
1,001
1,414
Jaggery
< Foreign States,
( Great Britain,
177100
7
22
Junk
5 India,
I Great Britain,
1
20 15
Live stock
India,
C Great Britain,
28
3
35
52
Looking glasses
} India,
^ Foreign States,
f India,
115
5
Medicines
} Great Britain,
( U. S. of America
i Great Britain,
1
Mats, &c.
} Foreign States,
( India,
JMillinery
5 India,
I Foreign States,
Marmel water
S India,
( Foreign States,
20
3
4
3
184

EXPORTS OF THE ISLAND OF CEYLON,

ARTICLES OF EXPORT.

Malabar slip- .
pers
Marble stones
Materials Musical instru
ments
NankeenNets Oils

Oil manstore
OakumsPearls Pearl oysters
Planks, &c.
PerfumeryPalmeira raft
ers, &c.
Precious stones,
&c.
Palmeira leaves,
&c.
Ponats Plants Palmeira nuts,
&c.
Paints Pickles, &c.
Palanquins Parrah measures
Pitch Rattan
Rosin Rice Shells

Seeds

TOTAL VALUE OF ARTICLES EXPORTED
IK EACH XEAIl.

l India, India, India,
i India,India,India,
r Great Britain,
i India,
L Foreign States,
r India,
< Great Britain,
C Foreign States,
India,
5 India, Foreign States,
India, Great Britain,
India,
5 India, Foreign States,
i Great Britain,
India,
> India,India,India,
] India,India, Foreign States,
India,India, India, Great Britain,
S India, Foreign States,
Great Britain,
r Great Britain,
< India,
C. Foreign States,
r India,
< Foreign States,
C Great Britain,

1831.

1832.

2
35

57 1

4,231 94 10 2

1833.

3
166 7 1
1,000

5,343 69
100 20 9

126 3

2

1

24

44

472

30

49

33

378

316

7

9

4

1834.

51 17

4,626 20 5 5
15

58 3
78

59 8
753 4

28

29 35

4,417 125

10

33 7543
2,602 737 10

FROM 1831 TO 1834.

185

rOTAl VALUE OF ARTICLES EXPORTED

IN EACH TEAR.
ARTICLES OF EXPORT.
1831.
1832.
1833.
1834.
Staves to
Great Britain,
£
£
£
' £
C Great Britain,
7
6
4,164
Satin wood
< India,
304
291
386
485
( Foreign States,
97
37
Staves, &c.
India,
7
Silver wares
Great Britain,
150
Sea-moss
India,
( India,
1
85
Salted provisions
< Foreign States,
( Great Britain,
Salted fish, &c.
5 India,
\ Foreign States,
44
104
144
8
Spears
India,
Sappan wood,
&c.
C Great Britain,
< India,
178
126
57 44
265 91
( Foreign States,
243
Saddle wood
India,
Salt
India,
1
1,121
4,991
Sugar candy
India,
Stationery
India,
Soft sugar
India,
Soap
< India,
( Foreign States,
C Great Britain,
/
6
4
Spirit and liquors
< India,
( Foreign States,
C U. S. of America,
61
75
Spices
< India,
( Foreign States,
3
Silk
India,
¦»l
Sulphur
India,
Saltpetre
India,
Sponge
India,
1
Sunday tools
India,
Saddlery
India,
C Great Britain,
4
2
Timbers
^ India,
1,971
2,245
706
1,115
( Foreign States,
146
30
' 64
33
Tallow
Great Britain,
29
166
Tinsels
India,
C Great Britain,
3
1
Tallipoota
< India,
( Foreign States,
4
1
Tobacco
5 Foreign States,
I Great Britain,
2
1
24
186

EXPORTS OF THE ISLAND OF OEYLON, &C.

TOTAL VALUE OF ARTICLES EXPORTED

IN EACH TEAR.
ARTICLES
OF EXPORT.
1831.
1832.
1833.
1834.
Tobacco 1
0 India,
£
£
. £
£
5,242
1,741
1,986
5,032
Tanks (iron)
India,
238
Tamareen stones
India,
3
5
1
3
Tortoise shells
India,
21
27
39
44
Toys
India,
Tiles, &c.
India,
Tea
5 Great Britain,
} India,
Tamareen
Great Britain,
Twine
India,
1
Turmeric
Great Britain,
Tar
India,
Vinegar
S Great Britain,
I India,
34
45
1
29
25
Velvet
Foreign States,
Winnows
5 Foreign States,
\ India,
f Great Britain,
1
24
10
36
7
19
Wines
< India,
( Foreign States,
1,073
Wearing appa
rel
> India,
Wooden parahs
India,
Wires
India,
Wire cloth
India,
White ware
Great Britain,
11
Wagons Total
India,
28
121,148
156,008
100,470
145,833
PEARL SHELLS. 187

CHAPTER XVIII.

PEARLS A.ND PEARL-FISHING OF CEYLON.
December, 1835.
A VERT extensive variety of beautiful shells is found in the waters
of Ceylon, but those most esteemed are found at Trincomalee, and
may be met with for sale at Colombo, put up in satin-wood cases of
different sizes, fitted with trays, setting one on top of the other. But
the most prized of all the sub-marine productions, by princes, by
orientals, and particularly by ladies, from the most ancient times, is
the pearl, found in a shell, which, according to Lamark, is named
Meleagrina Margaritifera, and inhabits the Persian Gulf, the shores
of Ceylon, the gulf of Mexico, the bay of Panama, and the gulf of
California. According to the nomenclature of conchology, it is a
bi-valve, or is composed of two halves, and has at the posterior base
a byssus, or beard, for the accommodation of which there is a notch
between the two shells. By this byssus and a glutinous matter which
it secretes, the animal attaches itself to rocks, stones, dead shells,
&c., and it is also, perhaps, an adjuvant to its motions. The size of the
pearl oyster varies in the different localities of its abodej but those of
the same place do not differ much in this respect from each other:
those of California, Panama, and Barhein in the Persian gulf, are large
when compared with those taken from the pearl banks of Ceylon,
which measure at the hinge, whjch is linear, from two to two and a
half inches, and rectangularly to this base, from two and a half to
three inches. These shells are thin and diaphanous; internally na-
cred or pearlaceous, and externally rough, bearing the marks of the
habitations of other animals, as sponges and some species of vermes,
that penetrate the outside covering, or epidermis, and therein con
struct their dwellings. Those of the Persian gulf are thicker and of

188

PEARL OYSTERS.

twice the above dimensions: they are smoother externally, covered
with a greenish epidermis, and marked by dark-colored rays of from
a quarter to half an inch in breadth. Again j those found at Panama
and those of California, particularly the latter, are very large, and the
nacre is thick, forming what is termed ' Mother of Pearl.' A very
considerable profit is derived from carrying these shells from Califor
nia to China, where they are manufactu red into a variety of ornamen
tal and fancy articles.
Pearl oysters, the natives of Ceylon think, descend from the clouds
in showers of rain, and, according to Argensola, in a History of the
Moluccas, " At a certain season, are wont to open their mouths, first
opening the shell, and receive the subtle and substantial dew from
which they conceive pearls, the color depending on the quality of the
dew: if they receive it pure, they beget white pearls, bat if turbid,
gray and other turbid colors. Sarmiento complained, they were thrice
hid by nature; in the depth of the sea, in the shell, and within the
animal inhabiting it."* — After escaping from the egg, or embryo
state, pearl oysters are seen in immense clusters, floating about
the sea; at this time they are so very small, that a casual observer
would pass the floating masses, believing them to be some kind
of fish spawn, but never suppose them to be oysters. In this state,
the sport of wind and current, they are driven round the coasts of
Ceylon, until increased size causes them to sink to the bottom.
They then attach themselves to rocks, generally of coral, or to
any heavy substance, by means of the beard, similar to that of the
common muscle, with which nature has furnished them, or they ad
here to each other in clusters. On removing a wooden buoy, that had
been attached to an anchor, about sis weeks, in the port of Colombo,
it was brought on shore, covered with pearl oysters, nearly as large
as a shilling. The finest pearl in the possession of the Maricair of
Killicarre is said to have been obtained from a bank off Chilawj but
it appears that oysters very seldom arrive at perfection on any banks
except on those off Arippo. The coral banks off the coasts of this
island, lie from one to six or eight miles from the shore, generally ex
posed to the strength of the monsoons and currents; those near Arip
po appear to be the least exposed. t
* Viage al Estrecho de Ma^llanes Por el Capitan Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa.
En Ios Anos de 1579, y, 1580. Madrid, 1768.
t Remarks on the Faarl Fisheries by a correspondent of the Colombo Jouma],
Nov. 10, 1832.

LOCALITIES OF PF.ARL OYSTERS. 189
Near Muscat, I have found pearl oysters from the size of a dime
to twice that of those of Arippo, adhering bv their beards in crevices
of rocks, left bare by the tide; and the very small ones, to the under
side of masses of rock, lying in water two or three feet deep, many
of which I turned over. Thev were mingled with other shells and
sponges, and some were even hidden by them; and one could not avoid
the impression that the young oysters had selected such retreats, to
be secure from the attacks of larger and more active animals. But
their number was insignificant, when compared with the thousands
fished up from what are termed pearl banks.
"The last three fisheries on the Arippo banks, have been in from
five and a half to seven fathoms water, protected on the west and
south-west by a ridge of sand and coral, extending from the north
point of an island called Caredivan. Coming from seaward over this
ridge, in two and three quarter or three fatlioms water, you rapidly
deepen to seven fathoms in the immediate neighborhood of the oyster
beds: besides this peculiar protection from the violence of the south
west monsoon, the coral banks to the northward of the pearl banks
are in many parts nearly level with the surface of the sea, and may
form an essential protection to the oysters from the currents of the
north-east monsoon.
"Thus secure in deep water, lie the quiescent oysters, adhering to
their coral homes until age has enfeebled the fibres of their beards,
and then, most of them breaking from their hold, are found in per
fection on a sandy bottora near the coral beds. Two-thirds of the
oysters taken up last fishery were from a sandy bottom.
"One of the most intelligent pearl divers I have met, fixes the age
of the oyster at sis and a half years when it breaks from the rock : he
does not think it can forsake the rock at its own pleasure; but when
separated it has the power of moving on a sandy bottom, generally
with the hnige directly in advance. "When I first soundi on the
ridge which runs from Caredivan island, I was struck with its impor
tance as a guide to the particular spots of oysters, and was surprised
I had never heard of its existence. I caused inquiry to be made, and
after some time was informed, that the natives of that part of the
country, have a wild notion of a powerful queen having resided at
Kodremalle, and that the dead from the city were placed on an island
in the sea, which has disappeared; nevertheless, I am inclined to be
lieve the ridge to be rising coral and sand.
" Before the fibres of the beard break and the oysters separate,
they are in immense heaps and clusters. A diver describing how

190 AGE OF PEARL OYSTERS.
thick they were on the bank, placed his hand to his chin; a more in
telligent man estimated the depth of the beds of oysters seldom to
exceed eighteen inches, and explained that large rocks at the bottom,
when covered with oysters, may be mistaken for heaps of oysters
themselves. "Pearl oysters are said to arrive at perfection in seven years:
after attaining this age they soon die. I heard of an attempt being
made to remove pearl oysters, as comraon oysters are removed in
Europe, to richer and more secure ground, but without success. I
once attempted to convey some alive from Arippo to Colombo by sea,
having the water frequently changed, but on the second day they
were all dead.
"Persons who may have beeii in the babit of considering a pearl
oyster a treasure, will be astonished to learn that a bushel of them
may be purchased at Arippo during a fishery for a less sum, than a
bushel of oysters can be bought for at Feversham or Colchester.
" The best pearls are generally /ound in the most fleshy part of
the oyster, near the hinge of the shell, but pearls are found in all
parts of the fish and also adhering to the shells. I have known sixty-
seven pearls of various sizes taken from one oyster. It is by no
means certain that every oyster contains pearls; they are seldom
found in those oysters that would be selected as the finest for eating:
this favors the opinion that pearls are produced by disease in the fish,
and, therefore, pearl oysters are seldom eaten, being considered un
wholesome. If a pearl be cut into two pieces, it will be seen that it
is formed of separate coats or layers, similar to those of an onion;
and it is no doubt formed of decomposed particles of shell."
In this opinion, that pearls are ' formed of decomposed particles of
shell,' the correspondent of the Colombo Journal is mistaken; but, to
understand the subject clearly, it will be necessary to say a word or
two on the growth and organization of shells generally.
It must be kept in view that shells are the hard coverings or domi-
cils ofa kind of animals whose organization, though sufficiently per
fect for all the purposes to which they are destined, is comparatively
of a low grade. These animals are possessed of an apparatus, of
muscles for motioti, another for digestion and nutrition, and of
organs for circulating a fluid, which, from certain purposes to which
it is applied, may be termed blood. Some have, in addition to these
rudiments of animal life, besides the sense of touch, that of seeing,
of hearing, of smelling and of taste; but in the most elementary con-

FORMATION OF PEARLS. 191
stitutipn alluded to, there is the basis for organs, endowed with the
function termed secretion, which is absolutely necessary for the
maintenance atid continuation of animal existence.
By the term secretion is meant the active process of an organ or
gland in producing its peculiar fluid, which is also termed its secre
tion; and this secretion is always the same from the same gland
when in a normal condition: for example, the liver secretes bile, the
lachrymal gland, tears, and the salivary gland, saliva; but the func
tion of one gland is never assumed by another.
Most shell-wearing animals are produced from eggs which contain
the minute animal in its shell, then very delicate and scarcely large
enough for the accommodation of the new being. As his size in
creases, nature sets to work and enlarges it by the process of secre
tion and deposition of shelly matter, a function performed by the
skin, making the domicil larger and thicker as he grows older, until
the animal reaches adult age, when the function is carried on less
actively, unless stimulated by adventitious circumstances. The
shelly matter, when first eliminated from the gland, o^ secreting
surface, in the pearlaceous shells, is generally of a bluish white color
and of rather more consistence than milk; but in a short time the
fluid part, gradually disappearing, leaves a solid and delicate coating,
closely adhering, and so nicely joinedi that it is not at once per
ceived where the junction has taken place between the old and new
shelly matter. It is probable, that after adult age, this function is
called into action at fixed periods, which may be at the season of pro
creation: in the common oyster, it occurs in the United States, pro
bably twice a year, in the spring and autumn, when the animal is
said to be in its milk. Owing to an untimely suspension of the
secreting process in certain cases, we meet with irregularities in the
forms of shells of some species. Now, by the very same function
which constructs the shell and increases its size, as the necessity of
the animal inhabiting it requires, both the rough exterior and beauti
fully nacred interior of the pearl shell, as well as of many others,
are produced; the dimensions and thickness of the shell depending
altogether upon the size and activity of the secreting organs. In the
higher grades of animal life, when a bone is fractured or some of the
soft parts are injured, nature immediately makes an effort, and fre
quently succeeds in repairing the damage; and the same holds true
in the low grade of anlmalization, wherein shell -covered animals are
classed; for when a shell is accidentally injured, either by fracture
or perforation, its inhabitant at once sets about secreting the mate-

192 COMPOSITION AND FORMATION OF PEARLS.
rial for its repair. , I have in my possession several very large limpets
from Acapulco, which have been attacked on the outside by a species
of boring shell, like the date-fish of the Mediterranean, and neariy
perforated — indeed, would have been so entirely, had not the animal
in the limpet met the inroad of his enemy, by a barrier of shelly
matter, deposited on the interior surface of his domicil.'
This shelly matter is composed of an animal and mineral sub
stance; and according to the predominance of one or the other, will
be the toughness or friability of the shell. The species, which in
general contain the most animal matter are those, apparently, whose
structure is fibrous and pearlaceous or nacred. According to M.
Hatchett, they consist of the subcarbonate of lime and coagulated al
bumen. The nacre of the pearl itself is composed of 66 parts of
the former and 34 of the latter in the hundred.*
With these facts before us, it is much more plausible to suppose,
that instead of being the result of decomposition or decay, pearls are
formed by a secretive process, or. composition; but, that it is a
disease which urges the animal to a superabundant secretion seems
to be very generally admitted: and we are told by Blainville, that
M. de Bournon thinks every pearl contains some extraneous sub
stance in its interior: if this be true, the difficiilty of accounting for
the origin of the pearl ceases. We know that when foreign sub
stances are by chance lodged in the human body and not removed,
they are in many instances soon encased in a covering of a membra
nous texture to relieve the circumjacent parts from the irritation and
inflammation that might otherwise follow: in this way musket and
pistol balls remain in the body for years without producing much in
convenience; and in this way, too^ a foreign substance forms the
nucleus of vescical calculus.. Now, if this be a law, common to all
forms of animal life, we may very readily conceive that a particle of
sand, finding its way from the bank into the oyster, might iirge the
animal to free itself from the irritation thus induced, to envelop the
sandy particle with nacreous secretion; thus forming a pearl, the
configuration of which would depend upon the form of the nucleus
and the muscular action to which it might be subject.
It has been observed for a long time, that the nacreous matter,
which forms pearls, is entirely analagous to that which lines the in
ternal face of many univalves, and of a certain number of bivalves;
* Manuel De Malaoologie et de Conchyliologie, Par H. M. Ducrotay de
Blainville. Paris, 1835.

PEARL-BANKS. 193
also, it has been seen that they may be produced by a kind of extra
vasation of this matter which assumes a form more or less regular,
and it has even been supposed that the animal might be forced to
produce them, by piercing the shell from the outside; for then, in
order lo bush or stop the hole, it would be under the necessity of ac
cumulating the nacreous matter at that point. This was indeed
demonstrated by Linneus upon the Unios — a genus of fresh water
bivalve — of the rivers of Sweden, so that, in a manner, he created a
kind of artificial pearlery (perliere;) but, besides this sort of pearls,
rarely large and regular, and all of which bear the mark of the pe
dicle of attachment of a greater or less size, it appears that they are
produced in the animal itself, and probably in the substance of its
skin or pallium, and that from this source are obtained the largest
and most beautiful pearls of India. For this reason, both Lamark
and Blainville are of opinion, that the pearl is the result of disease;
but, I cannot conceive of a failure of design so great in the works of
the • Architect Divine,' as that of creating a class of animals in a
state of disease; for it appears that very few pearl oysters are found,
which do not contain some extraordinary nacreous formation. And
we may infer, from the experiments of the great Swedish naturalist,
that external irritation is sufficient to excite pearlaceous secretion in
abnormal quantity, or, in other words, a disease which results in the
formation of pearls.
The pearl-banks of Ceylon, which have been celebrated for many
a year, are in the gulf of Manaar, between its north-western coast,
and that of the Indian Peninsula, and not far from Arippo. The
fishery is a government monopoly, and, being managed on very just
and politic principles, is the only unobjectionable one of which I have
any knowledge. The banks are fished on account of the government;
the oysters are sold in lots of one thousand, on the spot, to the high
est bidder. As there can be no certainty of the quantity or quality
of pearls a heap of oysters may contain, the pearl fishery must attract
many to speculate, from the gamester-like interest thus thrown
around it.
In the month of November, between the close of the south-west
and commencement of the north-east monsoon, when calms prevail,
the banks are examined by the collector of Manaar, who is also the
supervisor, attended by the inspector and an interpreter.
" The vessels employed on these examinations," says the corre
spondent of the ' Colombo Journal,' " are a government guard vessel,
2,5

194 PEARL FISHING.
two sailing boats from the Master Attendant's department at
Colombo, and about eight native fishing boats from Manaar and
Jaffna. On these occasions the boats are furnished with one diving
stone and two divers. Five or six native headmen, called Adapa-
naars, also attend and go in the boats, to see that the divers perform
their duty, and take notes of the reports given from time to time by
the divers for the information of the supervisor.
" Samples of oysters are taken up and forwarded to Colombo with
a report on the state of the banks by the supervisor. On these sam
ples depends the decision of government as to a fishery the following
March. " So many years had passed since the fishery of 1814, without one
of any consequence having taken place, that it gave rise to various
conjectures as to the cause of failure. Some were of opinion that
violent winds and currents buried the oysters in sand, or drove them
entirely away; some supposed the Adapanaars and divers employed
at examinations gave false reports, and the banks were plundered
by boats from the opposite coast. It was also said that former fishe
ries had been so extensive, as to have injured the oyster beds. The
natives attributed it to various descriptions offish, and also to a fail
ure of seasonable rain, which they deem absolutely necessary to bring
the oyster to perfection.
" To prevent plunder, a Government vessel has been kept stationed
on the banks during the season of the year that boats can visit them.
To ensure correct reports, diving-bells have been used to enable Eu
ropeans to go down at examinations.
"Without venturing to contradict a pretty general opinion, that
the failure of pearl fisheries for so many years has been owing to the
effect of strong winds and currents, I am by no means ready to ad
mit this as the cause. Too much confidence in the knowledge of the
Adapanaars may have led to error, and consequent failure; they are
not like the experienced fishermen of Europe: indeed, they are not
fishermen; being unable to manage their own boats.
" Energy like that of our own seamen is no where to be found within
the tropics, and cannot be expected of the Adapanaars, but I cer
tainly did expect to find them excelling the common fishermen of the
country. They appear to read the compass, and are in possession of
fixed courses steered by their ancestors, from Arippo to the various
pearl -banks. They are useful as a medium of communication between
the divers and the ofiicers of the fishery. Little, indeed, appears to

PEARL FISHING. 195
have been the improvement of the fishermen, or of their means of
fishery, since the days when the pearls of Cleopatra's ear-rings were
landed at Condatchy.
"The pearl-banks off Arippo and Condatchy, lie at a considerable
distance from the coast, which is very low and presents hardly any
objects which might serve as land-marks, the banks are extensive, the
masses or beds of oysters being of various ages according to the sea
sons they may have settled. Very many of these masses or beds are
by no means so extensive as has been imagined, and nothing is more
easy, than to mistake one bed for another, particularly by the Ada
panaars, who are guided chiefly by the course they steer from the Do
ric at Arippo; and that which they call the N. E. chivel to-day may
be called S. E., to-morrow.
" I have heard that samples of oysters have frequently been taken
up by order, from banks inspected the previous year, and found no
wise improved, and sometimes the samples have been younger. This,
I venture to say, shows that although there has been no difficulty in
finding plenty of oysters on the banks, there has been great difficulty
in finding the same spot a second time, and proves that the greatest
care and skill are necessary to mark the particular spots, beds, or
masses on the bank from whence the samples are taken; and this is
not to be expected by mere compass bearings and soundings, or even
by astronomical observations, but requires a union of talent and pro
fessional tact with alacrity in the pursuit. These necessary qualifi
cations will ensure considerable success in the fishing, and a conse
quent increase of the revenue derived from this source."
When the examination thus made results favorably, an advertise
ment, running as follows, is issued: —
PEARL FISHERY.
"Notice is hereby given, that a Peari Fishery will take place at
Arippo in the island of Ceylon, on or about the 1st of March, 1836,
and that the banks to be fished are as follows: —
"The north part of the Chivelpaar, estimated at 100 boats for 3
days. "The south part of the Chivelpaar, estimated at 100 boats for 4
days. " The Modorogammo, estimated at 100 boats for 10 days.
" It is, therefore, recommended to such boat owners and divers as
may wish to be employed at the said fishery, that they should be at
Arippo on or before the SOth of February next.

196 VALUE OF THE PEARL FISHERY.
•The number of boats to be employed, will be one hundred for
seventeen days.
"The fishery will be conducted on account of the government, and
the ovsters put up to sale, in such lots as may be deemed expedient
" The arrangements of the Fishery will be the same as have been
usual on similar occasions.
'¦ The payments to be made in ready money in Ceylon currency,
or in the coins and at the rate specified in the government advertise
ment of the 14th December, 1S53.
"Bdls on the agents of this government at ten days' sight will in
like manner be taken, on letters of credit being produced to warrant
the drawing of bills on the said agents.
''For the convenience of purchasers, the treasurer at Colombo and
the government agents have been instructed to receive deposites in
money from such persons as mav lie desirous of becoming purchasers,
and the receipts of the treasurer and agents will be taken in payment
of any sums due on account of the Fishery.
" There is reason to expect, that the Fishing may continue for a
farther time beyond that specified above.
By order of tlie Right Hon. the Governor.
P. Anstruther,
Colonitd Secretary.
Colonial Secretary's Office.
Colombo, Deceinber -ith, 1S35.
Here follows a long tabular statement of the condition of the banks
and value of the oysters taken up. From the first named bank 5,296
oysters were taken up, and the pearls obtained on an average from
each thousand, are estimated to be worth 28 rupees or about 12J dol
lars. From the second bank 5,507 oysters were taken up, and the
average produce of a thousand, estimated at 18 rupees; from the third
bank, 4,928 oysters gave the average value of pearls to 1000, at about
five dollai^s. Musters of the pearls are shown at tlie office of the co
lonial secretary.
Under similar arrangements, the Fishery of 18S3, yielded a reve
nue of ^-25,04311 , frora tliree-fourths of the oysters landed: one-
fourth, according to custom being the property of the divers. Each
bank is calculated to be available for twenty days in seven years; and
the annual net revenue from the pearl fishery is estimated ^614,000.
At the Fishing in 1833, twelve hundred and fifty divers were em
ployed, of which number 1100 were from the coast of India, and only
150 from Cevlon.

PEARL FISHING. 197
Notwithstanding the moral of diat pretty story, entitled " The
Tale of Cinnamon and Pearls," by the talented Miss Harriet Marti-
neau, and in spite of the oblique arguments, based on false data, con
tained therein, it is very evident, that without the present, or some
similar system in regard to it, the pearl fishery would soon become
profitless; the beds and banks would be destroyed and the oyster it
self disappear from the waters of Ceylon; and, therefore, to remove
this monopoly, would be to kill the goose that lays the golden egg.
" The boats used at pearl fisheries, measure from 8 to 15 tons with
out decks, head and stern nearly alike, the stern having a slight curve,
the sternpost being generally straight, both have considerable rake,
but the stern has most. A boat that will measure 40 feet over all, will
not exceed 28 feet in length at the bottom, but keel they have none(!)
The bottom is round, and the breadth of the boat increases to the top
of the gunwales. They are rigged with one rude long mast, and carry
one lug-sail made of light cloth, loosely sewed to a tight coir rope,
so that it blows out very much. As a sailor would say, it is roped
tight, bags, and stands badly on a wind.
"These rude fittings subject thein to frequent accidents: they are
then assisted by the boats of the Master Attendant's department, and
towed to the shore.
"W^ith a favorable wind, they sail very well; but cannot hold to
the wind, or beat against it. They leave the shore with the land wind
about midnight, to proceed to the bank, a distance varying from nine
to twelve miles; they are led by the Adapanaar's boats, in the direc
tion of the Government guard vessels, (at anchor close to the fishing-
ground) with lights hoisted on board to guide the boats to the place.
" If they reach the bank before daylight, they anchor close to the Go
vernment vessel, until the Inspector hoists the signal, at half-past six,
for diving to commence. When the weather is settled favorably, the
land winds begin to die away as the sun gets up; by 9 or 10 it gets
quite calm, and by noon (when the gun is fired from the Government
vessel for all diving to cease,) a pleasant sea-breeze has sprung up to
run the boats to land.
" When the regular land and sea-breezes are interrupted, which fre
quently occurs, they have to use their paddles, long sticks, with an
oval piece of board lashed on the end, for the purpose of oars. Some
times the fishery is stopped, until the return of a favorable weather
with land and sea-breezes.
" The crew of a boat consists of a tindal, or master, ten divers, and
thirteen other men, who manage the boat and attend the divers when

198 PEARL DIVERS.
fishing. Each boat has five diving stones, (the 10 divers relieving
each other) five divers are constantly at work during the hours of
fishing. "The weight of diving stones varies from 15 to 25 lbs. according
to the size of the diver; some stout men find it necessary to have from
4 to 8 lbs. of stone in a waist-belt, to enable them to keep at the bot
tom of the sea, to till their net with oysters. The form of a diving
stone resembles a pine; it is suspended by a double cord.
" The net is of coir-rope yarns, 18 inches deep, fastened to a hoop
18 inches wide, fairiy slung to a single cord. On preparing to com
mence fishing, the diver divests himself of all his clothes, except a
sniall piece of cloth; after offering up his devotion, he plunges into
the sea and swims to his diving stone, which his attendants have flung
over the side of the boat; he places his right foot or toes between the
double-cord on the diving stone, the bight of the double-cord being
passed over a stick projecting from the side of the boat; by grasping
all parts of the rope, he is enabled to support himself and the stone,
and raise or lower the latter for his own convenience while he remains
at the surface: he then puts his left foot on the hoop of the net and
presses it against the diving stone, retaining the cord in his hand.
The attendants take care that the cords are clear for running out of
the boat.
" The diver being thus prepared, he raises his body as much as he
is able; drawing a full breath, he presses his nostrils between his
thumb and finger, slips his hold of the bight of the diving stones,
doubles the cord from over the projecting stick, and descends as ra
pidly as the stone will sink him.
" On reaching the bottom, he abandons the stone (which is hauled
up by the attendants ready to take him down again) clings to the
ground and commences to fill his net. To accomplish this, he will
sometimes creep over a space of 8 or 10 fathoms, and remain under
water a minute; when he wishes to ascend, he checks the cord of the
net which is instantly felt by the attendants, who commence pulling
up as fast as they are able; the diver remains with the net until it is
so far clear of the bottom as to be in no danger of upsetting, and then
commences to haul himself up by the cord, (hand over hand) which
his attendants are likewise pulling, when by these measures his body
has acquired an impetus upwards, he forsakes the cord, places his
hands to his thighs, rapidly ascends to the surface, swims to his diving
stone, and by the time the contents of his net have been emptied into
the boat, he is ready to go down again. One diver will take up in a

SHARK-CHARMERS. 199
day from one thousand to four thousand oysters. They seldom ex
ceed a minute under water, the more common time is from 53 to 57
seconds, but when requested to remain as long as possible, I have
timed them from 84 to 87 seconds. They are warned of the time to
ascend by a singing noise in the ears, and finally by a sensation simi
lar to hiccup.
"Many divers will not venture down, until the shark-charmer is
on the bank and has secured the mouths of the sharks. Some are
provided with a written charm from the Priest, which they wrap up
in oil cloth perfectly secure from the water, and dive with it on their
person. Others, being Roman catholics, appear satisfied with an as
surance from their Priest that they have his prayers for their protec
tion; but I am informed they are all happy to secure the interest of
the shark-charmer.
"This worthy man is paid by Government, and is also allowed a
perquisite of 10 oysters from every boat daily, during the fishery.
" During my first visit to the pearl-banks, the shark-charmer in
formed me, that he had obtained the charm frora his father, that the
only real power of securing the mouths of the sharks was possessed
by his family, and that it would be exceedingly dangerous to trust to
any other person; he also gave me to understand that if he were to
explain the charm to me, it would lose its virtue in my possession. I
requested him to charm a shark to appear alongside the vessel, he
said he could do it, but it would not be right, his business being to
send them away. At several subsequent visits, I renewed ray request
without effect.
" During the few days we were employed marking off the ground
to be fished last March, a shark was seen and reported to me. I in
stantly sent for the shark-charmer, and desired him to account for
permitting a shark to appear at a time when any alarm might be dan
gerous to the success of the fishery. He replied, I had frequently
requested him to summon a shark to appear, and he had therefore al
lowed this one to please me.
" When on board a South-sea-man, I remember seeing a man bit
ten by a shark; the crew were employed cutting the blubber frora a
dead whale alongside, and on these occasions it is necessary for a man
to get upon the whale in order to hook on the bliibber to be hoisted
into the ship. The man has a belt of canvass round his waist fas
tened to a cord, and is attended to by a man on deck. At these times
innumerable birds and hungry fish assemble round the vessel. The
unfortunate man had one foot pressed into the flesh of the whale, and

200 EXTRICATION OF PEARLS.
the other stretched in the sea, when the second-mate observed a shark
in the act of seizing the man's leg; with great presence of mind and
admirable precision, he darted his spade (the instrument he was using
to cut the blubber) at the neck of the shark and nearly severed the
head from the body, at the same instant that the animal had seized
the man's leg. The teeth of one jaw made a serious wound, but the
teeth of the other jaw only left a number of small holes in the skin,
and in six weeks the man was able to resume his duty. It is only
when pressed by hunger that sharks are so bold; they are naturally
timid and would rarely venture near a body of divers; the noise made
by the boatmen when at work is the great protection."
During the fishing season, the shores of Arippo are enlivened by
crowds of people from all parts of the country; divers, boat owners,
speculators, and the curious, all assemble to behold,
"Pale glistening pearls, and rainbow colored shells,"
while the lapidary attends with his wooden stand and bow, to drill
the pearls and fit them to be strung, so soon as they are got out of
the oyster, which, according to all accounts, is a tedious and rather
disgusting operation. The oysters are put into pens, and there left
until the animal matter be softened by putrefaction, when it is sub
jected to frequent washings, and the pearls shine forth, emblems of
purity in the loathsome mass. Some are of a bluish, some of a yel
lowish, and some of a whitish lustre; each class finds a ready mar
ket among its admirers; in the East, the bluish and yellowish vari
eties are most prized, but in the eyes of the christian fair, the pure
white shines brightest.
The pearl diver, though obnoxious to many casualties and to se
vere toil, is said to be longer lived, on an average, than coolies and
other laborers; yet both Mrs. Hemans and Miss Martineau, in com
miserating their hard lot, seem to be impressed with the belief that
they number fewer days than any olher people of similar rank. That
they receive a high compensation cannot be doubted, if we take as a
criterion, the result of the Fishing of 1833, when each diver received
£3, 15s. 4d. for eight days' labor; and it must be borne in mind,
that able-bodied men do not receive in Ceylon more than sixpence
per day: " A wild and weary life is thine,
A wasting task and lone,
Though treasure grots for thee may shine.
To all besides unknown!

TOWN OF COLUMBO. 201
"A weary life! but a swift decay
Soon shall set thcg free,
Thou'rt passing fast from thy toils away.
Thou wrestler with the sea!
" In thy dim eye, on thy hollow cheek.
Well are the death-signs read —
Go! for the pearl in its cavern seek
Ere hope and power be fled!
" And bright in beauty's coronal
That glistening shell shall be;
A star to all the festive hall —
But who will think on thee?
"None! — as it gleams from the queen-like head.
Not one 'midst throngs will say,
A life hath been like a rain drop shed.
For tliat pale quivering ray."*

CHAPTER XIX.
SKETCHES IN CEYLON.
December, 1835.
CoLUMBo is placed on the western coast of Ceylon, in six degrees
and fifty-seven minutes of north latitude, and in eighty degrees of
longitude east from Greenwich. It is divided into two parts; one
within the fort and the other outside of it, which is called the Pettah,
The town within the fort is laid out regularly; the streets are broad.
Macadamized and planted with the hibiscus, which affords a pleasant
shade; the houses are generally one story high, built in the Dutch
style, with a porch or corridor in front, besides a paling, which en
closes a small plot of grass or flowers. The Pettah is much of the
* Works of Mrs. Hemans.
26

202 inhabitants — oonicoply.
same character, except that it is but little shaded, and the dwellings
are of a more humble appearance. The fort is chiefly inhabited by
Europeans; the Pettah, by natives and castes, originally from India
and the neighbouring islands. In 1832, the population was 31,519,
consisting of Europeans, Burghers, Malabars, Singhalese and Moors,
besides a few Malays, Chinese, Parsees, Caffres, and Patanys. And
we may remark of the Asiatics, what cannot be universally said of
christian nations, that wherever they go, or settle, they preserve
unchanged their customs and costumes, as well as their peculiarities
of physiognomy, from generation to generation. The reason of this
appears to be, that their customs are more or less connected with
their religious forms, to which they are in general bigoted adherents;
and their costumes are typical of caste, the preservation and main
tenance of which is, in their opinion, an imperative duty, admitting
of no compromise; and, therefore, the castes never intermarry with
each other. And hence it is, that most eastern towns of note pre
sent such various and interesting groups to the passing stranger.
Besides the costumes already mentioned, we meet in the streets
the degenerate Portuguese of moderate means, dressed in the fashion
of his early ancestors, seated in a small carriage having three low
wheels; two behind, and one in the centre of the fore-part of the
vehicle, rigged like the fore-wheel of a velocipede, by which it is
guided in any direction at the will of the passenger, while a naked
slave imparts motion, pushing behind with all his force.
Next, attention may be drawn to an India-skinned individual,
called a "Conicoply," who, instead of appearing bareheaded after
the fashion of his countrymen, the hair turned up with a tortoise-
shell comb a la Greque, wears a blue velvet cap without vizor,
having a sort of horn projecting forward from each side. A collar
less surcoat of bluish cotton, with pantaloons of the same, and sharp-
toed slippers, make up the costume; but he has an ornament in each
ear, consisting of a half dozen circles or rings, three or four inches
in diameter, of fine gold wire, closely resembling a coil, depending
to the shoulder. He has an inquiring hiok, and carries a book or a
small packet of nicely folded white papers under the arm: one
might detect in him, without question on the subject, the collector of
bills, the dun by profession. Almost every public office, as well as
mercantile house, has its conicoply to keep a look out for the detail
of its fiscal affairs.
While you stop to gaze, when for the first time you meet in the
street an elephant harnessed to a cart, lazily swinging his great

itinerant JEWELLERS. 203
trunk from side to side, or flapping away the flies with his monstrous
ears, as he trots along, under the guidance ofa naked Indian perched
over his fore shoulders, you will find yourself surrounded, after the
passing of the show, by a dozen Moors in cotton shirts or naked,
except the kummerband, offering for sale jewelry of all sorts, gems
set and not set; some genuine, and others fair sophistications in
glass. The first salutation, in short, sharp, clipped yet respectful tones,
is, "Master, want buy water sapphire? — blue sapphire me got — very
fine." He is interrupted by a second, " Mooney stone, master, no
buy? — fine mooney stone me got." — A third breaks in, "Master,
starry stone, no buy? — me got cat's eye." While these are exhibit
ing their wares and flashing them in the sun-shine before your eyes,
another pulls you by the sleeve from behind, and with a look and
gesture intended to enhance the importance of the communication
about to be made, says; " Sare, me got ruby, aqua marine, cinnamon
stone;" — but he is cut short by another crying, " Topaz — carmago-
rin, (from the Scottish, cairngorum:) no want buy, my master?" The
instant, however, you manifest the slightest inclination to purchase
by taking a stone in hand to examine, all except him to whom it may
belong, stand back and silently await the result. You now ask the
price and the jeweller answers, " Me no say, master; me poor Moor
man — master, see good stone — master, know good stone, have good
price — what master give?"
Not feeling confidence perhaps in your knowledge of the article,
you insist upon his naming a price. After some hesitation and be
stowing a good deal of superabundant praise on the stone, displaying
it at the same time in the most advantageous manner, the vender of
" Gems from the mountain and pearls of the ocean,"
whispers, "Fifty dollar, very cheap." Then, unless you be what
they term a 'griffin' or greenhorn, you will be careful what offer
you make, for " you must do as chapmen do, dispraise the thing you
mean to buy," or you will probably pay dear for the whistle. Were
you to offer one-fourth of the price named, you would very often
pay ten dollars for a jewel not worth one, the vender putting it into
your hand, with an air of one sacrificing his wares, saying, " Take,
master, take." Therefore, gentle reader, should you ever visit
Colombo, let me say to thee; £.punta Vmd. But if the first stone
do not please you, the same individual draws forth frora the folds of
his kummerband another of more brilliant aspect, and puts it into

204 lapidaries.
your hand, with an air which says, " There's a gem for you" — and so
on till he has displayed his whole stock. Then the others importune
you to look at the contents of their kummerband folds; and there is
no getting rid of them, except by offering a very trifling sum for a
valuable gem; then away they go in disgust, but it is only to meet you
again in an hour, at another turn of the street.
Every day, while at Colombo, several of the tribe came on board
in dhonies to sell jewelry and collections of shells, mostly from
Trincomalee, very nicely arranged in baskets woven of palm leaves.
Some brought uncut stones; others, knife-handles and snuff-boxes,
made of elephant's teeth, (not tusks) which were to us novel and
very pretty, from the wavy alternation of the osseous strata, which
are white and of a deep king's yellow; others, again, offered gold
chains, resembling in their fabric those made at Panama; and rose
chains, made of very pure gold, in small square chased links, after
the fashion of those of Manila; but it was necessary to be always on
the alert, or they would palm upon you gold ornaments — " pure
gold, all same, same make copper pans." Indeed, some on board
made wonderful bargains, and discovered when it was too late, that
their jewels were of some base metal nicely gilded.
Among the most admired gems, were the moonstone, a fine species
of feldspar; the cat's-eye, which is greenish gray, traversed by an
opalescent streak of light, said to depend upon minute fibres of
asbestos contained its composition; when this ray is perfect, the stone
brings a great price. Cordiner states, that they have been sold in
England even as high as ^6150 each. But the most singular is the
star-stone, a variety of sapphire ofa grayish blue color, which, when
subjected to a strong light, presents a star composed of six delicate
white rays, turn it whatever way you may. Amethyst of every
variety of hue vvas offered for sale.
In a ride through the Pettah, we stopped one day to witness the
labors of the jewellers, or rather lapidaries. They sit under a ve
randa or shed, in front of the house, squatted on their heels behind
a rude lathe, raised a few inches from the ground. On the end of its
axle there is a round plate of iron or steel, about eight inches in
diameter, placed vertically; which is made to revolve backwards and
forwards by a drill-bow about four feet long, made of bamboo, and
worked by the right hand, while the left applies the stone to be cut,
held tightly between the finger and thumb against the wheel. A sort
of emery, or finely powdered sapphire of coarse quality, moistened
with water, is the only intermediate substance used in cutting the

CEYLON DIAMONDS  SPICY nREEZES. 205
stone. One of the'lapidaries, who seemed to be indifferently honest,
told me, that what are called " Ceylon diamonds," are made of a
species of tourmalin which is boiled for some time in cocoanut oil,
before being cut, to make it perfectly transparent. A gentleman of
the ship saw one of these jewellers manufacturing water-sapphire
from the fragments ofa decanter, and a glass fruit bowl.
Among those things which the stranger anticipates most, on going
to Colombo, is the pleasure of visiting what are termed the cinnamon
gardens. The very name makes one think of Ceylon's "spicy
breezes'' — of flowers — of beautiful walks and of balmy airs redolent
of fragrant odors; but it is all a pious imposition palmed upon us by
an idle race of people, called poets. "Spicy breezes!" Such
breezes never swept the olfactories of any man, any where, unless
they were wafted from some grocer's shop or cook's pantry. It is a
commonplace remark, by all new-comers to hot countries, " that
though the flowers be brilliant in color, they are almost destitute of
smell." The heat seems to be so great, that the essential oil, upon
which the odor depends, is dissipated so rapidly, that it cannot accu
mulate in sufficient quantity to impart its peculiar fragrance to the
flower; and the same is true of tropical fruits generally. I have met
with nothing under the sun's track, either in the east or west, com
parable in this respect to our own forests, at the season when the
magnolia " may be scented afar off;" and why travellers have lent
their aid and sanction to poets in upholding and spreading the idea
of Ceylon's, or any other land's " Spicy breezes," I am at a loss to
imagine. While turning over some gazettes at the Colombo Library, on the
day of our arrival, I was addressed very politely by an elderly gen
tleman, who discovering me to be a stranger, introduced himself,
and at the same time invited me with as many of my messmates as
would accompany me, to breakfast with him the next day at Baga
telle, the name of his garden, and, lest I should forget the direction,
requested the librarian to write the address for me, saying, "How
ever, any body can tell you where the former Commissary General
lives; it is about four miles from town." Circumstances prevented
us from taking advantage of the invitation for that day, but we did not
fail to visit several times what is considered to be the best cinnamon
garden, under private cultivation, in the neighborhood; and I am sure
we shall long remember the cordial welcome, the unaffected hospi
tality and kind attentions extended to us on these occasions, by Mr.
L  , and the ladies of his amiable and numerous family.

206 RIDE TO BAGATELLE.
About ten o'clock, one morning, we mustered a party of six or
eight, and hired a " bandy," sometimes termed a palanquin carriage,
a long-bodied vehicle set on low wheels, capable of accommodating
four passengers. The driver — a more appropriate name would be,
leader — holds the head of the horse by a single rein a foot or two
long, and trots along beside him the whole way. This personage is
usually attired in a cotton jacket and kummerband, or only in a
kummerband; he keeps his body straight, holds his shoulders back,
and does not swing his arms; and it is a subject of admiration, the
speed and ease at which he travels six or eight miles, apparently at
the end of the journey not more fatigued than his horse. These
drivers excel the same class of people one sees at Bombay.
Our party being accommodated in a bandy and a part of Mr. L  '^
carriage, drove out of the fort at the Galle gate, crossed the esplanade
and race ground, a distance of about a mile, and then found the road
running through forests or groves of cocoanuts, beneath the shade of
which were seen the white huts of the Ceylonese, as well as the
bungalows and gardens of the English residents, who were named
to me by Mr. L  , as we passed along. The road is level,
Macadamized, and, during the greater part of the day, completely
shaded; it lies about a half mile from the sea, a glimpse of which is
now and then caught through the alleys of tall trunked trees. The
natives were seen variously employed. Some were bearing water in
jars, suspended from the ends of a bamboo resting across the shoul
ders, and others were dispensing arrack from their little shops; but
every where the women were the most industrious and engaged in
the most laborious employments. They wear a short, loose spencer
or gown, which falls just low enough to hide the breasts, while the
lower part of the person is clothed in numerous folds of colored
cotton, quite neatly arranged. Children, up to the age of eight or
ten years, go entirely naked, and are very numerous; indeed, my
companion, who has twenty-four children by his present wife, ex
pressed his opinion that the climate is remarkably favorable to pro
creation, both in the animal and vegetable kingdoms. Now and then
we met a Boudhist priest, distinguished by his closely shorn head
and eyebrows, and yellow robe cast about his person in such a man
ner, that the right arm and shoulder are left bare. A large banyan
tree forms a sylvan arch over the road, some of its descending
branches having taken root forty yards from the parent trunk, on the
opposite side of the way. In short, the whole ride was so novel, so
picturesque and possessing at the same time, a miniature-like neat-

CINNAMON  CINNAMON AND CLOVE OILS. 207
ness and regularity, that one cannot but be pleased: one of our party
declared, that he had never seen any thing so Eden-like, and that he
felt himself nearer paradise than he had ever done before.
We alighted at the mansion of Mr. L  , and, after paying our
respects to the ladies, were led through the cinnamon grounds; but
there was no odor, no " spicy breezes," nor could we perceive any
thing like a cinnamon smell, not even when the very bark, still at
tached to the stick, however, was put under our noses. At the sea
son of cutting, I was told by Mr. L  thi5 odor was any thing but
agreeable, bearing more of the hircine offensiveness than of the spicy
aroma, upon which poets love to dwell. The leaves, however, which
are from five to eight inches long, by about three broad, and of a
dark shining green, when mature, emit a strong smell of cloves, if
broken or rubbed in the hands. The cinnamon (the spice) is the true
bark, outside of which there is a tasteless, cellular cuticle, which the
cinnamon pealer scrapes off with his knife before he removes the
spicy bark. Were it not for this cuticle, the essential oil might be
evaporated by the heat of the climate, and leave but an inodorous,
tasteless substance, instead of the aromatic, which is so highly
prized. " Garden, sir!" replied a midshipman, when asked how he liked
the cinnamon garden^" garden, sir! — it is nothing but a wilderness
of green bushes and shrubs;" and such, in fact, it is. The cinna
mon, when not interfered with, grows into a tree, twenty feet high,
and eight or ten inches in diameter at the base of the trunk; but,
when cultivated for the sake of its bark, it is not allowed to exceed
eight or ten feet, with a diameter from one to two inches. The
stalks, which shoot up in a cluster of eight or ten together, are cut
once in about three years close to the ground. On Mr. L  's
plantation the earth is accumulated around the roots, and, to retain
the water, cocoanut husks are placed about them, which, in time,
form an excellent compost. It is cultivated by suckers generally,
and sometimes from the seed, in which case, the young plants are
kept in a nursery for a year or two, and then transplanted. Besides
cinnamon and cinnamon oil, the plant yields, from its dark green
leaves, a clove oil, which affords a very considerable profit.
While the Dutch held the government of the island, only a fixed
quantity of cinnamon was allowed to be grown, the policy being to
get as large a money return for as small a quantity as possible; and
it is stated, tliat when the crop was greater than the demand, at the
established price, the surplus was burned. Private individuals were

208 SlNGHAlESE COINS A-\D BOOKS.
inhibited its cultivation; nor were they permitted to cut a branch of
the plant, even if it grew wild upon their estates, under the barbar
ous penalty of losing a hand. After the English got possession of
Ceylon, the East India Company obtained a monopoly of the culti
vation and sale, which was held until 1830: its growth and exporta
tion have since been free, upon paying a duty of three shillings per
pound on all qualities, equal to about six hundred per cent, on the
cost of gathering, which is estimated at sixpence. During the exist
ence of the monopoly, all the cinnamon was collected by the agents
of the Company, sorted, packed, aud sent to England, whence it
found its way to the different countries of the christian world. This
course and policy brought an inferior article into mai-ket, under the
name of cassia, which, from its cheapness, has, to a very great ex
tent, superseded the fine cinnamon.
The cinnamon oil is obtained frora the fragments of bark which are
made in pealing, sorting, and packing. The estate also produces a
great number of cocoanut trees. Their sap is collected and sold un
der the name of toddy, which, by distillation, yields aiTack, the spi
rits chiefly used in India, and the fruit is manufactured into oil, and
sold in England. Besides tliese sources of profit, the plantation af
fords a number of sappan trees.
Mr. L  has a considerable dash of the antiquarian in his tastes,
and, during a residence of thirty years in different parts of Ceylon,
has picked up much curious information relative to the inhabitants:
he told me that, in digging, he had found several coins of Augustus
Csesar. He showed us several Kandvan coins, and a book, written
in Singhalese, upon leaves of the talipot tree. The leaves were about
two inches wide, and sixteen long, and were laid uniformly together,
between two heavy brass covers; but, instead of being secured by
one edge, like our books, a cord was run through the leaves, about
two inches from either end, and in the centre; so that they mav be
said to be ratlier strung than bound together. The writing is done
by an iron point, or stylus, which is something held in a slit made in
the fore finger, and rubbed over with a composition, which, being at
once wiped off, leaves the scratched letters black, contrasting well
with the cream white of the leaf. Soma of these works are centuries
old, and still appear fresh and unimpaired.
Not the least interesting sight at Colombo is a very large elephant,
employed every day in conveying great trees to the landing-place,
where he piles them carefully, by aid of his tusks and ti-unk, thus
performing, in a day, the work of twenty men. The strength and

WORKING-ELEPHANT  SOCIETY AT COLOMBO. 209
sagacity of the animal are wonderful, every body knows; yet one
cannot avoid expressing admiration when he sees him look from his
small intelligent eye at a log, twenty or thirty feet long, and a foot
or more in diameter, and then, taking it up in the middle, so that it
will be accurately balanced across his tusks, carry it wherever di
rected. His driver is on excellent terms with him, and makes him
perform a variety of tricks, such as holding out a foot by which to
mount, &c.
Judging from what we saw, the English society, consisting chiefly
of the families of the civil and military officers of the government, is
very pleasant, but not very extensive — at least, not sufficiently so to
be split into circles. The usual routine of life seems to be lunch or
tiffin about two o'clock, P. M., a ride or walk at five, and dinner at
seven or eight. We dined daily at one house, or at another, but saw
nothing essentially different from our own customs on like occasions.
The dwellings usually stand some distance from the road, and, when
guests are expected, the alleys leading from the high-way are usually
lighted up by torches, formed of inflamed cocoanuts fixed on short
staves, producing a pretty effect, seen through the thick foliage which
every where prevails. This I first saw at the Governor's, and again
at the mess-house of the Ceylon Rifle Regiment, where we spent a
most social and agreeable night.
It has been very correctly remarked, that Englishmen are less su
perlative in their language and less enthusiastic in their manners than
we Americans commonly are; they most resemble the phlegmatic
Dutch, we the volatile French. Most of those gentlemen I had the
pleasure of meeting were of liberal opinions; but I was once or twice
amused at certain hues of Bullism, which peeped forth when the con
versation turned on subjects wherein some little rivalry between the
two nations is supposed to exist.
On the night of the twenty-first we attended a ball at the King's
House, given on the birth-day of Miss Horton, daughter of the go
vernor. For the pleasure of the evening we are particularly indebted
to Lady Horton; the previous day had been appointed for sailing,
and was postponed at her request. All were gay and agreeable, and
the night passed happily away. A specimen of eastern luxury was
seen in the ball-room, where constantly moving punkas, depending
from the ceiling, fanned the dancers as they movetl in the quadrille,
or twirled in the waltz.
Of the kind hospitality extended to us, on all hands, at Colombo,
I might speak in the highest terras; particularly, were I to draw a
27

210 DEPARTURE :FR0M CEYLON.
general comparison between it and Bombay, in this respect; but I
think silence on the subject is more becoming, and, perhaps, more
agreeable to those whom I might name, should these pages ever meet
their eye. I know it is common with travellers of the present day
to name, in their journals, all those who have obliged them with a
dinner; but, I cannot be convinced that private individuals are grati
fied by a public acknowledgment for the common courtesies of soci
ety, nor do I think it a legal tender for social civilities.
On the 24th of December, after sunset, we got under way, bidding
an unwilling farewell to Ceylon, which, whether considered in re
spect to its natural sources of wealth, its climate, or flourishing con
dition, is the brightest spot in the colonial possessions of the British

" We return — we return — we return no more! —
So breathe sad voices our spirits o'er.
Murmuring up from the depth of the heart.
When lovely things with their light depart.
And the inborn sound hath a prophet's tone.
And we feel that a joy is for ever gone."

SKETCHES IN JAVA.

VOYAGE TO .IA\ A. 213

CHAPTER XX.

VOYAGE FROM CEYLON, AND SKETCHES IN JAVA.
January, 1836.
The day after sailing from Colombo was nearly calm, and we
found ourselves not far from Point de Galle. Two dhonies came
alongside to sell various articles of jewelry — snuff-boxes and knife-
handles, of elephants' teeth, and ladies' work-boxes, manufactured
of calamander, and other woods of the country. Our visiters re
mained several hours, to our amusement and, perhaps, their profit;
they observed the mode of traffic common throughout India, which
is, to ask most unreasonable prices, and receive as much as they can
obtain. One of them demanded five-and-twenty dollars for a box,
and, at last, sold it for five; and another sold a desk for a dollar and
a half, for which he had been asking ten. Their jewels were false;
yet, when a trifling sum was offered for a yellow ring, gemmed with
a glass emerald, the owner declared, " Master make foolish — ^good
emerald, good pagoda gold;" but in the end was anxious to obtain
the price he had at first most contemptuously refused. Towards
sunset, having disposed of nearly all of their wares, the aquatic ped
lars left us, and the governor of Galle sent a boat alongside to in
quire the news.
We stood away to the eastward, and the next day felt the favor
ing winds blowing freshly from the bay of Bengal; they brought us
rain in plenty, which was deemed to be any thing but advantageous
to the health of the persons on board. We were bound to Acheen,
and several ports on the north-west coast of Sumatra; but the bad
weather, in connexion with the sickly state of the ship, and other im
portant considerations, induced the commander-in-chief to shape a
course directly for Java. We steered more to the southward, and,
on the 6th of January, 1836, again entered the southern hemisphere.

214 STRAITS OF SUNDA — MAIL-BOAT.
having crossed the equator for the third time since sailing from New
York. .
Having heard no news from home, for eight months, we now looked
forward to the straits of Sunda, with the pleasing anticipation of re
ceiving letters from the United States. On Sunday evening, the tenth
of January, we descried the island of Sumatra enveloped in dark
masses of clouds, and at eleven o'clock, P. M., we passed the island
of Crokatoa, at the western entrance of the strait. The night was
dark, and it rained occasionally with an accompaniment of terrific
thunder and lightning, but the day dawned in all the tranquillity of
smiling summer. The skies were serene and the air balmy and elas
tic. The island of Sumatra, clad in tropic green to the water's edge,
rose high on the north, a few fleecy clouds still lingering around its
summits; "Java's palmy isle," stretched away, on the south, smiling
under a luxuriant vegetation, and the point and town of Angier were
visible from the ship. Many eyes were directed towards that point,
over the smooth face of the waters, to catch the cheering sight of the
mail-boat, which boards all vessels passing through the straits, to de
liver and receive letters; and owing to the liberality of the Dutch Go
vernment, (a solitary instance I believe,) this accommodation is free of
expense. First, two canoes were descried, but only brought fruit and
sea-turtle, and it was eight o'clock before the anxiously awaited boat
reached the ship's side, and the postman stood on deck. He was a
short, thick-set Malay, with close cut, shining black hair, and a maud
lin eye, dressed in a dirty blue jacket, ornamented with tarnished
bell-buttons, and a pair of striped cotton breeches reaching to the knee,
but without any other garment whatever. A leathern bag with lock and
key, sustained upon the left hip by a broad belt over the right shoul
der, was his badge, and the object of our interest. It was soon opened
to our examination, and after the strictest scrutiny, was found to con
tain a register of the ships visited, a few worn letters, directed in dif
ferent languages to various parts of the world, and a few others re
cently deposited for vessels expected, but not one for the Peacock
or Enterprise. Here was disappointment and blighted smiles. The
youngster who has been absent nine months from his home, for the
first time in his life, aud all the while confidently anticipating the
pleasure of reading letters from his dearest friends, when he shall ar
rive at an appointed place, must be in a very philosophical frame of
mind, if he do not look blank and feel his throat to rub away a sort
of choky sensation, that sudden disappointment is apt to create.
Those who have experienced any thing of the vicissitudes of a na-

TnK MAXGISTIN  ARRIVE AT BATAVIA. 215
val life, should know the feeling well, and can understand the an
noyance of such an event. But even iu this instance we did not de
spair; we looked forward to Ba'.avia, not doubting a moment, tliat we
should there find letters, and before night the Angier mail-bag was
almost foreotten. a " The web in the leaves the spider weaves
Is like the charm Hope hang^s o'er men;
Though often she sees it broke by the breeze.
She s^.ins the bright tissue again."
Among the frmts offered for sale by the Javans in the canoes along
side, was one which is said to be without a rival in the world. It was
presented to us on ropes, like onions in tlie Philadelphia market, and
being new to him, the steward asked how they were to be cooked.
This famed fruit is almost perfectly round, of from one and a half to
three inches in diameter, with a smooth, hard cuticle of a reddish
black color, and altosether its external appearance may be compared
to that of a ripe walnut. Inside of the hard cuticle, there is a spongy
bark, a quarter of an inch thick, of a pretty lake red, sjmrsely strewed
with minute yellovr points; which bright color, a native poet has com
pared to the lips of beauty. The shell thus formed encloses a white
pulp, divided into from five to seven parts of unequal size, like the
natural divisions of an orange. The larger parts, or divisions, usu
ally lialf the number of the whole, contain each, a large bean-shaped
seed, but the others dissolve away in the mouth with a most luscious
sab-acid taste, resembling somewhat that of tlie granadilla of Peru.
When informed that the ropies before us were of the celebrated Man-
gustin, some set their teeth in it, as they would have done had it t»een
an apple, and turned away in disgust; bnt a little instniction quickly
tamed all to it again, and all agreed that, though a most exquisitely
delicious fmil, it was not equal to what they had fancied the man-
giistin to be, and some ventured to say, that those who declared it to
be without a rival, had never enjoyed that strawberry-and-cream-fla-
Tored lasciousness, which is peculiar to the Peruvian Chirimoya, as
it grows in the valleys of Piura and lea.
Thewind was ahead, and the night was sultry, with rain, lightning
and thunder. The next day was spent in beating against the wind,
among numerous islands, until six o'clock, P. M. , when weanchored
in Batavia Roads, too late, however, to communicate with the shore.

216 BATAVIA ROADS  LANDING.
but the following morning ended all our long cherished anticipations:
— there were no letters for us.
At this season of the year, the view from the anchorage has little
that is attractive. The shore is low and wooded, sweeping round in
an extensive half circle, and sea-ward there are numerous small isl
ands, which, in a degree, shelter the roadstead from a heavy swell,
that, daring the N. W. monsoon, under different circumstances, would
roll in upon the beach. There is neither tower nor fane to be seen;
the octagon church alluded to by a recent voyager, having been taken
down a quarter of a century ago, by the Governor Van Der Capellen,
because Horseburg in his "East India Directory," names it as one of
the land-marks by which to enter the harbor, and therefore, the Go
vernor General very shrewdly concluded that the English could not
find their way to Batavia, if it were removed. A few red tile roofs
and a low look-out house, on the end of the booms or canal, are the
only indications, besides the fleet of shipping in the roads, of the vi
cinity of the capital of the Dutch empire in the East. The moun
tains of Java were constantly hid under masses of black clouds, and,
during our sojourn, we only once or twice got a glimpse of them.
I seized an early opportunity to visit the shore, and among my
first remarks, was, that the boats of the vessels in port were manned
by Malays, to protect their own men from the baleful effects of the
climate; exposure to the sun and the miasms arising from the neigh
boring low-lands, having been found uniformly injurious, and often
fatal, to new-comers at Batavia. We approached the shore under
easy sail, listening to the frequently volunteered observations, of
the Malay cockswain, who told us, the English were much better
liked than the Dutch, because the latter, " made Malay -man pay plenty
money;" but, he continued smiling exultingly, " Dutchman drink
water, he die — Dutchman in sun, he die — when Malayu no kill him,
he die — plenty Dutchman die in Padang." And after we had taken
a closer view of the policy pursued in Java, we did not so much
wonder at the bitterness of these observations.
The mode of landing at Batavia is not common. The water
in the roads is so shallow that ships lie about three miles from
the shore; but in order to shorten the distance, in accordance
with the legitimate system of Dutch logic, so clearly elucidated by
Knickerbocker in his " History of New York," there are two booms,
formed of wooden piles, extended seaward, for a mile, in a straight
line from the shore, having a canal between them, at the entrance of

VOYAGE ALONG THE CANAL. 2ir
which, the sea breaks over a sand bar, with such violence, at times,
during the north-west monsoon, that boats are frequently upset and
the passengers are subjected to a narrow risk of becoming food for
sharks and alligators, even if they escape drowning. Recently, how
ever, the course of the river Jacatra has been changed, and the last
named animals find it more profitable to lounge in the purlieus of the
new embouchement, leaving the canal an undisputed cruising ground
to the sharks. This bar is often a serious inconvenience, because
when one goes on shore, he is not certain when he can again return
on board; merchant vessels have been three weeks without being
able to get a " simpa" or lighter, out of the canal. When I found
myself bounding lightly over the curling breaker, and speedily
gliding up the canal before the wind, boats could enter, but could
not, when loaded, go out, because they had both wind and sea to con
tend against, and such had been the case for three days. Here and
there, along the booms, was to be seen a Chinese man or woman,
angling; and farther up the canal there was a party of wretched con
victs piling stone, destitute of all covering, except what their chains
and fetters afforded. The booms at last terminated in the substan
tial brick walls of the canal, along which were lying several Dutch
cutters, armed with brass guns and swivels, bearing all the appear
ance of being snug for winter quarters. Beyond them was a rano-e
of closely packed " simpas," a sort of burden boat of rude construc
tion, waiting a favorable moment to pass the bar: they have a great
eye painted on either bow after the fashion of the Chinese, and their
capacities marked in Kyons, the numbers running from five to
fifteen.* Another sort of boat used on the canal, is called a
" Myang," somewhat resembling the Venitian gondola. They all
carry wide-spread square sails of matting, set on light spars of
bamboo; but, to judge from their display of tatters, they are of a very
fragile texture.
After sailing a mile, we neared the left or eastern bank of the
canal, where there is a military post and a fort. A Malay soldier
armed with a bayonet, in a sky-blue uniform, but barefoot, carried
arras as we passetl. Two or three Dutch soldiers were lounging on
the green, with pipes in their mouths, looking contented in a marsh
under a half veiled sun. At this point, horses are furnished by the
government to all men-of-war boats; a rope was attached to our
'A Kyon is equal to 3000 caties, of a pound and a quarter each, or, 3,7S0
pounds.

218 ESTRiXCE TO THE CITY.
bows, and a little horee, ridden by a half-naked Malay, towed or
rather tracked us another mile to the landing. As we drew near
this point we observed more people, and when in sight of the custom
house, which fronts the canal, we saw a number of carriages standing
abont, as well as some arriving and others going av.ay. An inienor
officer or porter of the customs was standing on the canal bank, to
detect and prevent contraband. He wa; a barefooted Malay, dressed
in a blue frock vrith yellow trimming;, and a handkerchief neatly
tied about his head, and he wore on his breast a brass plate, bearing
the title of his employment. We landed without question, and
walked towar.Is the town on a fine shady road, leading over a
morass or low ground.
We were frequently passed by equipages which rather excited
smiles than admiration. A full sized phaeton, drawn by very small
horses, or rather poi:ie;, driven by a Malay, rolled in a frock of scar
let cotton, full of white sprigs and flower;: a basin-shaped basket,
painted red, glazed and ornamented by gay stripe; of gilt, turned
over his head and secured under the chin, answering the purpose of
a hat, such, no doubt, as the valorous knight of La Mancha would
have preferred to the helmet of iMambrino, completed the costume
of the Javan Jehu, whose long whip was kept in constant use. Such
was the general character of the passing vehicles: and where Dutch
men were passengers, a cloud of smoke from their cigars or chiroots,
followed in the train. Indeed, every body smokes chiroots, both when
abroad and in the house, where large brass ewers are commonlv seen
and used as spitooc;: the presence of ladle; in either case forming
no check upon the practice: on the contrary, it is not uncommon
for the footman to carry a lighted match of cocoanut husk behind the
carriage, in which his master and mistress are seated, for the conve
nience of smoking tobacco.
A pretty avenue, an eigh'.h of a mile long, leads to the grreat gate
wbich opens into the city: it is a white arch, surmounted by two
large urns, having bronzed figures of Mercurv and Minerva, stand
ing on either side, and, seen through the dark foliage, forms a pretty
entrance. A large public building fronts the gate, and misleads the
stranger to suppose he is entering a beautiful citv: but he i; speedily
undeceived by a walk through the wretched streets of old Batavia,
flanked by old house;, with liigh tiled roofs in the Dutch style. Tet
many of the buildings are lars;e and airy — those are generally occu
pied as counting-house; — but verv many are miserable hovels, tenant
ed by native; and Chinese; the whole having a cheerless, and even

OLD BATAVI.\  JAVAN COSTUJIE  MALWS. ;19
squalid appearance. The streets are Macadamized, and cross each
other nearly at right angles, the principal ones ha\in;j canals runnln<r
through the centre, « ith carriage ways on either side. There is also
a paved trottoir, but not in die be-t repair. The canals were full of
muddv water, and alive witii boats, loaded wi;h merchandise, even
at this season of the year, when business is dull. Aior;g their mar
gins are si.eds or roofs of tile, supported on posts, beneath which the
carriajes of the merchants are protected from rain or sun: for no one
here ever walks, even the shortest distance; or, if he do bv chance.
he is always careful tj be sheltered from the rays of tiie sun.
At everv step of the way one meets coolies, bearing over tlieir
shoulders, suspended from either end of a bamboo, large ba-kets,
containins fruit, fi-h, or poultrv: nothing is mere pkasant to the
eye, than one of these naked Javans, thus loaded witli the "rambu-
tan," or hairy fruit, which is of the bright color of strawberries,
nearly a; large as an egg. and covered with solt tliick spines or hair=,
whence it derives it; name. It is very plenty and cheap, and a fa
vourite with the natives, but I found nothing in it to praise. In the
same manner is carried about an establishment, called a '•' warong,"
perhaps more properly, restaurant ambulant; in one of the baskets is
a small furnace over wi.ich is boiling a pot of coffee, and in the other
is seen ready cooked rice, fisii, &:c. At anyone of these waron^rs,
a native makes an excellent meal of bread, lis':, rice, curry and a
cup of coffee, at an expense not exceeding two cents.
The costume of the Javans of the lower ciasses, consists of a
handkerchief, neatly tied about the hcid, a pair of tight drawers,
reaching to the knee, and a '¦ ;ar(;.nr.''or sasii, of ori Jit colored calico,
worn overtheslionlder. or around the hips. faliir;j about the limb; like
a petticoat. Tiie -Sarong is not unlike the Scotch Higiilander's plaid,
being a piec< ofa parti-colored cloth, six or eight feet long, and three or
four wide, sewed together at the end;: forming, a; some writers de
scribe it. a sack without a bottom. When exposed to rain, the bas
ket-hat already described is put on: but, in clear weati.er, is carried
in the hand. Many wear a kris, a kind of sword, witii a serpen
tine-form blade, in a straight wooden scabbard, though the fashion
of wearing arms is not universal.
The Malay i; of a dark olive color, rather small in stature, high
cheeks, pointed chin, and low forehead, with black eyes and hair;
the last, usually worn in long locks, reposing on his siioulders, when
not folded beneath his head-dress. The Javan Ls of lighter com
plexion, and is most admired, as the island poets sing, when of an

220 MODE OF LIVING.
orange or yellow color. The Chinese is of a sickly hue, and when
at work, appears without other covering than his full drawers, or
pantaloons; his head is shaved to the crown, and his hair plaited in
a long tail, hanging nearly to the ground. Children of both sexes,
and all complexions, go entirely naked, until six or eight years old.
The women seen in the streets, are very plain, and wear their gowns,
or petticoats, drawn tightly overthe breasts. Let the imagination act
upon the materials here given, adding a few males and females, young
and old, bathing together, in the muddy waters of the canals, and
the mind may catch a glimpse of the scenes presented in the streets
of old Batavia.
Soon after reaching the counting-house of Mr. F  , we entered
a phaeton, and were driven to his house, in the new city, or out of
town, for I am at loss to say whether it is town or country. The
dwellings of the merchants are in this new town, some of them six
or eight miles from old Batavia, where they live as luxuriously as
circumstances will allow. They retire from the desk about four
o'clock P. M., take a half hour's drive, and get home to dress, and
dine about seven, seldom quitting the table earlier than ten or eleven
ni'clock. Notwithstantling the insalubrious character of the climate,
I am very sure, a similar course of indulgence at table could not be
better endured in any other region for the same length of time. Some
individuals have been living in this manner, for ten and even twenty
years, enjoying most excellent health. When you speak of the subject,
you are told, in an uncertain tone — "Yes, it is necessary to be cau
tious, and take care of yourself!" But you will find your adviser,
perhaps, delighting in mulagatawny, curry, saddles of mutton, &c.,
with an accompaniment of light red wine; assuring you, that Sherry
¦and Madeira are too heating for the climate; yet, these are compen
sated for in copious draughts of Hodgson's pale ale, during dinner,
to cool the throat set on fire by highly condiraented dishes, and after
the wine has gone two or three rounds, a liquor coaster, well supplied
with gin and brandy, the first being most in vogue, and coolers of
water talce its place; which, aided by the cigar, or chiroot, bind the
guests to the social board, sometimes till a late hour. A cup of cof
fee is swallowed by every one the moment his eyes are open in the
morning; and in the dry monsoon, it is usual to ride before breakfast,
the hour of which is eight o'clock. The merchants then 'goto
town,' and, about twelve or one o'clock, take a lunch at the counting-
house; and so follow on the routine of life.
In a few minutes we had passed the boundary of the old city, re-

CITY or BATAVIA. 22]
marking, en passant, one street almost entirely occupied by Chinese,
industriously plying some mechanic art. There is one section of the
town called the China camp, distinguished from the rest by its more
squaled, filthy appearance, and being peopled altogether by Chinese
and their descendants, where may be seen quaintly painted paper
lanterns hanging at the doors, naked children flourishing in the mud,
and hair-plaiting and all the weighty offices of the toilet goino- for
ward in the open air. We crossed a canal, or river, and rode swiftly
over a fine level road, struck at every step of our progress by the
beauty and luxuriance of vegetation; every where the eye encoun
tered dwellings, wearing a mingled aspect of cottage and of palace;
the neat walks, the flowers, the clean white exterior, seen through
rich green foliage, and the air of retired comfort of the first, and the
columns of the broad veranda, the carriage-way sweeping up through
an avenue to the door, the height and extent of the building and out-
offices, in keeping with the latter. Some few houses, of an inferior
order, open directly upon the street; but, in general, they stand re
tired from the high-way. You see the broad canal, and its stream
of muddy water; canoes, laden with grass, tracked along bv men on
the banks; women and children bathing, and performing other offices
for themselves; numerous pedestrians beneath the shade of the long
line of trees on the canal; Malays and Javans in sarongs, carrying
fruit or fish; the Chinaman, with braided hair, drawn so tightly back,
as if to keep his eyes open, in tidy white frock, over blue pantaloons,
moves along, carelessly twirling a little tom-tom, to call attention
to the pack of goods following him on the shoulders of a Javan, or
Malay, which he is hawking about; now and then an Arab, turbanded
with a shawl from the vale of Cashmere, in flowing juma of blue
cloth, over a white vesture, with head erect, proudly steps his san
dalled feet upon the path, followed by a slave, bearing his umbrella,
his whole physiognomy crying,
" Odi profanum vulgns et arceo."
At this hour, numerous and stylish equipages are flying in every di
rection; in short, all you see speaks of the East, and, finding the
same succession of mansions, rich vegetation, and peopling, to ex
tend four or five railes, we readily believe those who tell us that Ba
tavia of the present day rivals Calcutta, of which we hear so much.
But this is all on one side of the canal; the other presents a road
resembling a newly ploughed field, over which the profanum valgus

222 WATERLOO SQUARE  HALL OF SCIENCE.
drive their (ruck-wheeled carts, drawn by water buffaloes, without
risking an encounter with the flaunting liveries of some Dutch nawab.
Falling at once into the routine, we drove through several streets
of the new city, which appears to be increasing in all directions, and
came upon a large square, one side of which is taken up by a pile of
buildings, occupied by the public offiees of the colonial government,
and the other by the cantonments of the officers, the soldiers' bar
racks being in the rear. In its centre stands a column, surmounted
by a lion, which was erected in commemoration of the field of Wa
terloo, and hence the name, Waterloo Place, or Square. Close to
the column, on the green sward, is a music stand, for the accommo
dation of a fine military band that plays on Sunday and Thursday
afternoons, when the Square is the resort of all the fashionable world
of Batavia. Here we occasionally saw numerous equipages bearing
fair ladies to listen to the music, the while their lords lolled back to
regale thera with the smoke of their chiroots; buggies, phaetons, and
barouches and four, at intervals swept through the square, and gay
equestrians caracolled along, for a few minutes, and then, with the
crowd of pedestrian sans cidottes, assembled again at the music
stand, as the band began some fine composition of the best masters.
To judge from these assemblages, Batavia boasts very few beauties
among her fair. In a half hour, the band, and the guard, in green
frock coats and long yellow shoulder-belts, marched off, and the
crowd of vehicles wheeled away in different directions, the coachmen
cracking their whips in full chorus.
Our road led us round the "King's Plain," an extensive level
field, surrounded by pretty shade-trees. As it was still early, we
passed the Het Bataviaash Genootschap, or Hall of Science,
where there is a collection of specimens of natural Iiistory, at pre
sent, I was assured, not worth visiting. Under the same roof is the
Harmonie, a large hall, resorted to in the evening to play billiards,
to talk, and, occasionally, to attend an auction-sale. In its vicinity
are the only two hotels in the place, both miserably kept, and by no
means the most eligible places of sojourn for chaste gentlemen.
Of the Dutch society I saw nothing, but I was assured that it is
pretty extensive and very good. Of the foreign society I saw much,
and most of us will long remember the kind attentions extended to
us while we remained.
The city of Batavia covers a large space, but the houses are far
apart, and their grounds extensive; and one is surprised at the com-

POPULATION OK BATAVIA. 223
paratively small number of its inhabitants. The population in 1824,
exclusive of the military force, consisting of fifteen thousand men,
seven thousand of whom are European^, was only fifty-three thou
sand, eight hundred and sixty -one, viz: —
Europeans and their descendants, - - - 3,025
Natives, - -  23,108
Chinese,  14,708
Arabs, .... - - 601
Slaves, ^originally from B.'di, Sumatra, and Maccasar,) 12,419

Total, - - 53,851'
In 1812, the number of inhabitants is thus stated, viz: —

Natives.

Europeans.

ipulation of Batavia,

47,083

371

" " Environs of do.

- 218,777

1,928

Total, - - 265,860 2,299t

A census is taken yearly, but I applied for that of 1835 in vain.
A friend asked it from a relation, who is a Resident; but he replied,
that his oath of office did not permit him to impart any information
from the archives without an order from the Governor General.
*M'Cullocli's Commercial Dictionary, Lond. 1835.
•j- The History of Java, by Thomas Stamford Baffles, 2 vols, quarto, London,
1817.

224 BATAVIA IN THE RAINY SEASON.

CHAPTER XXI.
SKETCHES IN JAVA.
February, 1836.
Many regrets were expressed by our friends on shore, at different
times, that our visit to Java was in the rainy monsoon, as we should
leave it with very unfavorable, and at the same time, unjust impressions,
and estimate its beauties too low. "Indeed," they said, " to see any
thing of the country, or to have an idea of what Java really is, you
should visit Buitenzorg." In truth, there is not much to say in be
half of a city, literally flooded by the rains, as Batavia was during
our sojourn. In most of the streets of the old town, the water was
a foot deep, and in some of them it rose to the hubs of the carriage
wheels. Houses and stores were afloat, yet the Chinese were seen
in their shops, plying their vocations as tailors, tinkers, and shoema
kers, half leg deep, while their naked children enjoyed fine sport,
sailing tiny boats about the room or before the door, as careless of
the circumstance as if it had been a thing of course. In front of
some houses were canoes, used to traverse the flooded streets. After
seeing this, who will be surprised at the very extraordinary sickness
and mortality of Batavia, exposed as the inhabitants must be to the
morbiferous miasms, generated by a burning sun on the oozy streets,
after the rainy season has passed away?
From the year 1730, till the month of August, 1752, a period of
twenty-two years and eight months, the burials, according to the offi
cial documents printed in the appendix of Raffles' History of Java,
was 1,119,375, about 4115 per month. Since that time, however,
things have improved, and a Dutch physician of eminence assured
me that the present mortality is very little greater than that of any
country of Europe.
The number of Europeans who died at Batavia, from January 1st,
1831, untU December 31st, 1835, was 2,460, or an annual average

JlORTALlTY  CLIMATE. 225
of 492. Of these, 166 were transient (or foreigners) or an average
of 33j; so that a number greater tiian the whole European population
(2,299 in the year 1812,) died in the period of five years!
Among other improvements at Batavia, there is a public hospital
for the reception of foreigners and others, said to be superior to any
establishment of the kind in India, and not inferior to many in the
world, but I regret that circumstances prevented me from visiting it.
To carry off the torrents, which, in the rainy season, pour down
upon the coast from the high land of the interior, numerous canals
are necessary, and a great many were opened; but it was supposed,
they were more than sufficient in number, and were prejudicial to the
salubrity of the climate: after intellect was on its march and had
learned to fly in many christian countries, it began an accelerated
crawl among the Batavia Dutch; and in their eagerness to improve,
they filled up many of the canals, without leaving enough to drain the
country and keep the city free. Business was thereby almost brought
to a stand, much property destroyed, and a popular commotion was
dreaded on these accounts. The canals will be again opened, in all
probability; for canals there must be wherever there are Dutchmen:
they are as necessary to their existence as pipes and Scheidam. Is
it not remarkable, tliat the Dutch, like the English, Spaniards and
Portuguese, should have settled their colonies in countries whose na
tural features are similar to their own.'
The weather at Batavia is, with little exception, nearly the same
every year; the months of January, February, and March, are gene
rally wet, the rainy season beginning about the middle of December,
and continuing, with more or less violence, until the end of March,
the wind commonly prevailing from west or north-west. During
April and May, the winds are variable, the weather unsettled, with
frequent lightning and thunder. In the month of June the dry sea
son begins, and frequently lasts till November, with eastward or
south-eastwardly winds. In 1835, not a single drop of rain fell
during nearly five months, from the beginning of May, until the end
of October. But generally during this season, there is a shower from
time to time, till the month of November, when the wealher begins
to change, and towards the end of December, the rainy season sets in
again in full force.
The average range of the thermometer for the last five years, was,
at six o'clock, A. M. 74° F.; at meridian, 88°; at six o'clock, P. M.
76°. The highest range was 96°, and the lowest 72°.
So often were vve urged to visit Buitenzorg, that we made up a
29

226 OLD BATAVIA AT NIGHT.
party and determined to set out the first fair day; but rain it would,
and we were disappointed day after day, and I returned on board in
despair. Late one afternoon, I was notified, that on the following
morning at daylight, rain or shine, the party would set off; I there
fore made my preparations and hastened to the shore. The evening
was the clearest that had occurred for many days, and augured well
for the morrow.
When I landed the sun had already set; nota leaf stirred; there was
only here and there a small cloud tobe seen in the sky, and presently
the stars appeared one by one, until the firmament was bespangled.
I walked along the quiet streets; here and there twinkled a candle
in the domicil of a Chinese, and before some of the miserable habi
tations, sat the inhabitants conversing in low tones, their words flow
ing as slowly and gently as the eddying wreaths of smoke from their
own chiroots. The general gravity of the scene, was indeed occa
sionally broken, by the mirthful laugh of a child, throwing its naked
form playfully inlo the arms of its father. As I walked on, the still
ness became greater, and there was a dreariness on the time-worn fea
tures of all around, seen beneath the soft light of the stars, not in the
least lessened by the occasional and melancholy cry of the ge-ko. I
felt glad to reach Tjauley's door; and, passing by two or three coops
of poultry into the office of our Chinese serviteur, roused him from
his desk, where he sat, almost buried in accounts, surrounded by
piles of fruit and bunches of green plantains. Tjauley raised his
spectacles, looked at me, got up from his seat, and, quietly trimming
the solitary lamp that glimmered its rays over the large apartment,
said, " You be come late shore — no, sir?" with a smile which betrayed
what Time had been doing in his mouth.
" Yes; will you get me a carriage?"
" You pay first?" replied the old man. The money was put into
his haml. He turned away and said something in Chinese, rather
above his ordinary tone, and the next moment his son and aid passed
into the street. I waited some minutes, and in the mean time Tjau
ley began to smoke a cigar. I grew impatient and moved towards
the door. " Sit down, sir, — him come in a little." I obeyed, and at
tempted to converse, but the old man was not talkative. At the end
of a half hour the carriage stopped at the door, and the town clock
struck seven faster than I could count; — the only active spirit in the
town is Time, and he strikes fast and hard.
I was not long in taking my seat; crack, crack went the whip, and
we rattled through the street, every where silent till we reached the

posting in JAVA.

China camp, where tilings were more alive. The music of the game-
Ian and the voices of dancing girls broke upon the ear. The scene
grew animated as we advanced. The restaurans ambvlans were
in motion, lighted by lamps, and here and there a way-farer was
regaling himself with a supper from the baskets of a warong, halted
for the sake of his custom. So soon as we had cleared the camp,
the view had something fairy-like in its character. The trees
along the canal were partially lighted from lamps, flickering in ca
noes and boats, swimming silently on the current. Now and then
there was a gleam cast upon the water afar off, by flambeaus seen
passing rapidly through the trees, and the mansions every where were
illuminated by many lamps of clear cocoanut oil, burning steadily in
shades of transparent glass, suspended from the ceiling of the veran
das, and in the apartments which were usually open wide for the be
nefit of every breeze. Carriages passed ever and anon at a rapid
rate, lighted by torches, made of bundles of the long stems of palm
leaves, bound together like fascines, having one end in a bright flame;
one is borne by each of the two footmen in red frocks behind each
carriage, producing a fine eflect; — this is truly eastern magnificence.
I alighted in due time at Fancy Farra. The next day I was on
foot at dawn, and seating myself in a buggy with our friend and
cicerone for the journey, drove to our Consul's, where we found the
rest of our party awaiting us. An antiquated coach that had been
standing in the yard for several days, was already geared to four
small ponies; the coachman was on the box; we speedily assumed
our places, and off we went with a cracking of whip that any Jehu
would have been delighted to hear. Besides the party of four sitting
in the coach, the major's servant sat at my feet with a little bag of
copper doits, to pay the driver and two runners, or postillions at
each post house, according to custom. At starting, the two postil
lions, who were clad simply in a handkerchief tied about the head
and a pair of tight drawers, each armed with a common cart-whip,
ran one on either side of the horses and belabored them with blows
and abuse, until the animals were at full speed; then they mounted
behind, where they continued cracking their whips in a sort of chime
with that of the driver, who, with vigorous arm, cracked right and
left. Without witnessing the fact, one would scarcely believe, that the
little ponies could hurry such a load after them at the speed we tra
velled. They kept at full run to the first post, a distance of eight

228 ROAD to BUITENZORG.
pauls.* The posts are conveniently arranged. A high shed covers
the road, and the carriage is driven under it, where the horses are
very quickly changed, as well as the runners, the same driver keep
ing the box all the way through. The posts are about five pauls
apart, and, notwithstanding the heavy rains, the roads are in excel
lent condition. But a strong contrast exists between the post roads,
exclusively travelled by tiie vehicles of the gentry and by pedes
trians, and the roads running side by side, changing frora right to
left, appropriated to the buffalo carts of the natives. The Dutch
force the natives to construct fine roads all over the island, and then
compel them to toil over v/ays that are comparable to ploughed fields.
How can people prosper whose policy it is to keep up such painful
distinctions? Where is the encouragement to force the soil to pro
duce its fruits, when, from the difficulty of getting them to market,
the profits are inadequate to the labor and loss of time? But we
shall see more of the stubborn, blind, brutal tyranny of the Batavia
Dutch before we conclude.
Thus far our route lay over a level country, beautified by fine man
sions, similarly situated to those already noticed, but growing 'few
and far between,' as our distance frora the city increased. The
morning was pleasant, and at that early hour, many Malays and
Javans were seen trudging towards the city with loads of fruit, vege
tables and poultry, all suspended from the ends of a bamboo, nicely
balanced over the shoulder. Chickens and capons are tied by the
legs, but geese, turkeys and peacocks are placed in separate mats of
green cocoanut leaves, which snugly envelop the body and wings,
giving them a comfortable support. Canoes loaded with fresh-cut grass
floated on the canal towards the city.
The horses were already in harness when we reached the post,
and little more was required than to hitch the traces, which were of
coir rope; those of the leaders were long, and instead of being at
tached to the pole or tongue of the carriage, were secured to the
same swingle-tree with the others.
All being ready, the chiming of whips with a chorus of Malay vo
ciferation commenced, and the restiff little horses began dancing
and prancing, first to right and then to the left, until, to escape the
shower of blows poured from either side to which they inclined, they
fairly rushed forward at the top of their speed, and the runners
leaped up behind to continue the music of their whips. In a few
' A paul is 1600 yards.

BELLE VUE. 229
minutes we were passing fields of indigo and rice; and we saw here
and there some few pepper vines climbing over forest trees. As far
as eye could reach, vegetation was beautifully green, but the view of
the mountains, now hid by heavy clouds, was wanting to coraplete
the scenery.
The country now became more elevated, and a range of low hills
was pointed out as the heights of Cornells, memorable for the hard
fought battle which ended in placing Java in the hands of the British;
and every philanthropist, as well as every Englishman, must regret
that a conquest dearly won in the field, should have been cheaply
given up in the cabinet. The road from this point has a gradual
ascent to Buitenzorg, which is elevated eight hundred or a thousand
feet above the sea, and as we approached it, every field was under
cultivation; a canal or river was almost constantly in sight; and the
road was bordered by green hedges.
The last post is situated at the top of a hill, at the foot of which
runs a river, brawling towards the sea, over which is thrown a
wooden bridge, and a long hill rises on the opposite side. After the
usual flogging and vociferation, the restiff little ponies ran down the
first mentioned hill and across the bridge at full speed, our servant
casting a florin, for toll, to a boy, who, with outstretched hand,
bawled something in Malay; but we continued on amidst cracking
and lashing of whips, and the shouts of the runners, urging the
spirited little nags up hill, for they were apprehensive that the
beasts would not, going at a moderate pace, be equal to the task. In a
few minutes we came in sight of the palace gate, which seemingly
terminates the road; but at that point it turns short to the right, and
along it we sped to the hotel, called ' Belle Vue,' where we arrived
in three hours and twenty minutes, a distance of thirty-nine pauls, — ,
rather more than thirty -five railes — from Batavia. We encountered
one heavy shower on the way, and a second was about commencino-.
In the garden of the hotel is an elevated summer-house, reared
on the verge of a hill, where we hastened to behold one of the finest
landscape views in Java. It presents a deep valley below, luxuriant
in green of various shades; a fine road descending into it from the
left; in front, a mountain eight thousand feet high, the summit of
which was now hid under heavy clouds, pouring out a fast approach
ing shower, and to the right, a canal with a rushing stream of yellow
water, wherein several females were bathing. The road to the left,
was animated by Malays and Chinese, in their peculiar costumes,
passing to and fro, the former bending under loads of fruit, &e..

230 the garden — upas.
while the latter, full of calculation, moved steadily along under um
brellas. When we had taken a glance of this view, we returned to the
hotel, and, after despatching an excellent breakfast, we rode to the
Garden, an extensive and prettily cultivated ground about the pa
lace, which was shaken down by an earthquake, on the tenth of Oc
tober, 1834, and is now rebuilding. As the morning was rainy, our
visit was hasty, and our examinations were often cut short by show
ers. We first visited an enclosure appropriated to the cultivation
of the cochineal plant {Cactus coccinelifer) which was introduced from
Mexico, and promises well. The cactus plants were ranged in rows,
some of which were sheltered by roofs of palm leaves. On some
of them were many of the purple insects, enclosed in a delicate
white web, resembling frost or mould.
We were fortunate in meeting Mons. H. Diard, the government
naturalist, just as he was setting off for Batavia. He recognised the
Major, and, alighting from his lumbering old coach and four, came
without his hat to greet him. He led us into an old, ruinous man
sion, bearing many signs of the earthquake, and which seemed now
deserted to Time, and the white ants, that were busily making their
covered ways over several parts of the floor. Mons. D  showed us
a collection of birds, among which was a pretty green pigeon, and
then led us to the back veranda, overlooking a deep valley, the
sides of which were terraced and planted with rice, and a serpen
tine river, whose current was now swollen by the rains, rushed
through its whole length. This he assured us is the most beau
tiful landscape on the island of Java. He assured me, that the cele
brated Upas plant, (Antiaris toxicacia, )grows only in the eastern part
of the island, and that he was expecting hourly to receive specimens
of it. An account of the Bohun Upas, or poison wood of Java,
upas being the generic term in the language for poison, and applied
to all plants possessing venomous qualities, may be found in Raffle's
History of Java.
After taking leave of the naturalist, I was told, that a Malay ser
vant observing Mons. D  to be curious in examining insects,
plants, birds, &c., caught a swallow, and after very nicely securing
a cock's feather to its tail, set it again at liberty. The swallow con
tinued its flights about the house, twittering away as gaily as ever,
and at length attracted the attention of the wortiiy naturalist. He
endeavoured to catch it, but his very eagerness in this case balked
him. He offered rewards to any one who would place the strange

CULTIVATION OF THE TEA PLANT. 231
bird in his hands, but no one would or could succeed, until in his
anxiety, he cried, " A hundred dollars to any one who will bring me
that swallow." Just as he was stepping into his coach, to depart for
a distant part of the island, the tricky Malay brought forward the
bird, but declined the reward, and Mons. D  drove off with the
prize, and was not long in discovering the deception that had been
practised on him.
On our return, we passed a large herd of spotted deer, and visit
ed the enclosure allotted to the tea-plant; then drove through a long
street called the China camp, intending to return through the native
village of Buitenzorg; but the horses, in spite of the hearty blows
and curses of the driver and runners, would not proceed, so we
were obliged to return to the hotel. It rained during the rest of the
day, and we were thereby confined to the house.
Mr. Jacobson, the government tea-taster, and planter, had arrived
at thehotel at the same time with ourselves, and I obtained from him the
following interesting particulars relative to " China's fragrant herb."
The plant was introduced into Java from Japan, in 1826; and in
1828, under the care of my informant, yielded specimens of black
tea, but of an inferior quality. In 1830, plants were brought from
China, and in 1833, their mode of manufacturing tea, was ascertained
at the expense of two or three visits to China, and the exercise ofa
good deal of cunning observation; for direct questions were always
answered in a manner to mislead and deceive the inquirer.
Although all the varieties and qualities of tea may be prepared
from the same plant, there are two cultivated; one yielding the green
and the other the black teas. The shrub bears a pretty white fra
grant blossom, and affords three or four pluckings of leaves in the
course of the year; but the nature of the soil, and the situation in
which they grow, produce an inexplicable effect upon the quality of
the teas made from them. The leaves, when of a proper age, are
plucked one by one by gatherers, who receive no other pay than in
the remission of certain land rents; and they are then placed in large
shallow pans of tin, over a charcoal fire, where they are constantly
turned with the hand, the sort and quality of the tea, depending
upon the length of time of manipulation. The best qualities of
green tea are longest over the fire, and therefore, are afforded at a
high price, while the black teas, manufactured at less expense of time
and fuel, are cheapest.
In March, 1835, 4,294 pounds of the several varieties of tea, put
up in the Chinese style, were shipped for Holland, where the tea-

232 MISSIONARIES— DUTCH POLICY.
tasters and judges declared them to be equal to any from the Celes
tial Empire; but they were not told how many thousand piculs of cof
fee these pounds of tea cost, nor how many poor Javans had been
despoiled of their rice crops to gratify the experimenting spirit of
Van Den Bosch.
We found our sleeping rooms pleasant. The beds were supplied
with an additional hard bolster or pillow, whereon to rest the lower
limbs, which has obtained the somewhat equivocal name of " Dutch
wife." On the following morning several missionaries arrived from
Batavia; Mr. Medhurst of the British mission, Messrs. Hanson and
Lockwood of the American mission in China, and Mr. Arms of the
American mission at Singapore, with two others residing at Batavia.*'
They had come to Buitenzorg to prefer a petition, asking countenance
of the government, to aid them in their great purpose of diffusing
christian and general knowledge among the people. Though the go
vernor treated them politely, and very diplomatically invited them
to dine, he turned them off with a very indefinite or no answer at all.
To their shame be it spoken, the Dutch do not think it consonant
with the system of policy adopted in Batavia to encourage the diffu
sion of knowledge, or the conversion of misbelievers to the belief of
christian doctrine. They dread, and no doubt with reason, that such
a change might be followed by their expulsion from the island, or at
least by a loss of their dear monopolies; but the time will come and
dear will be the reckoning day thereof. With Christianity and the
worldly information which accompanies it wherever it finds its way,
the Javans and Malays would be too strong for their oppressors; and
in a short time, they would be hurled in blood from the high places
they now hold in the island. And even without these advantages, the
people are against them, and ripe for revolt. All they want is a lead
er, which they might find either in Dipo Negoro, the hero of the war
of 1825, were he to escape from his prison in the Moluccas, or in
Lallabassa, now shut up in Bencoolen. The Dutch army, consisting
of about two thousand Germans, as many Dutch and three thousand
Belgians, besides native troops, is discontented. TheGermans dis
like the treatment they receive, the Dutch are miserably paid, and
the Belgians complain that their good conduct is oveHooked, and then
they have to contend with stubborn Dutch prejudices against them,
which have grown out of the late war in Belgium. This army is dis-
* The American Missionaries very kindly performed the church service, and
preached on board of the Peacock on the Sundays of her sojourn in the Roads.

A JAVAN PRINCE  GAMELAN. 233
tributed in small bodies over Java and Sumatra and might be cut up
in detail. But tiie Dutch think themselves secure. They have always
been opposed to strangers obtaining any knowledge of the island; there
fore no one is permitted even to visit Buitenzorg without first obtain
ing a passport, for which a small fee is exacted. Then the passport
states on its face it is good thus far, and no farther. So soon as tra
vellers arrive at the hotel and their names are recorded, the register
with their passports are at once sent to the palace. In our case they
were unnecessary, because the governor had accorded to us free post
horses. The Major procured for us an invitation from a Javan Prince,
Wiera Watta, who is Adipatti or native Resident of the district of
Buitenzorg, to visit him and hear the "gamelan," or band of Javan
music. At twelve o'clock, we descended into the valley below Belle
Vue, wherein is built the native village; a sort of vicinage of bam
boo houses, each one being so completely hidden in grottos of trees,
that at a short distance it rather resembles a luxuriant forest than a
town. The house of Wiera Watta is larger than any other in the
neighborhood, and is enclosed by a neat fence of split bamboo. We
were escorted across the open enclosure by umbrella bearers, to pro
tect us frora the shower, then falling, and at the entrance of an open
court, Wiera Watta himself received us very politely, and led us to
seats through a covered passage between the two wings of his dwel
ling. At the opposite end of the passage to that where we were, sat
two or three servants on the floor, with their knees drawn up to the
chin; and the gamelan was arrayed under shelter of a roof, near the
entrance of the court we had just crossed. The musicians were
playing when we passed them.
There are several kinds of gamelan used by the Javans. That be
fore us was the Gamelan Salindro, which consists of several instru
ments, resembling the harmonicon or ancient stocatta, termed "gam-
bang." The "gambang gansa" is a harmonicon having eighteen
wooden keys, arranged in a sort of trough or boat, which yield very
pleasant tones when struck with the proper sticks. The "gam-
bang kayu" has nineteen metal keys; there were three other simdar
instruments of smaller size, each having from five to seven metal
keys; they are named saron, demong, and selantam. A bed of ten
small gongs called a bonang; a large gong placed horizontally, two
large ones suspended from a wooden frame, and a long narrow drum
formed the bass, while the lead was given by the rehab, a sort of two-
stringed violin. This instrument is held very much after the man-
30

234 MUSIC  KRISES.
ner of the violoncello, and as the player was seated on the ground,
his left hand was elevated to press the strings while the right exer
cised the bow. The music was pleasing, and rather soothing in its
tones. The musicians were all seated a la Turque, and were gene
rally patriarchal in their appearance; the leader particularly so, when
he turned his withered face towards heaven and accompanied the
notes of the rehab in a high and pathetic tone.
The gamelan is preserved as an heir-loom in the family ofa Javan
prince, passed down from generation to generation: the one before us,
had long been the amusement of Wiera Watta's ancestors; and in
his father's time, there were dancing girls, also a part of it, who per
formed for the entertainment of the guests.
The gongs of Java are celebrated for their tone, and in many parts
of the East are prized before those of China.
Wiera Watta is of small stature, and wears the semblance of se
venty years. His face is a benevolent one, but from the loss of teeth,
the cheeks have fallen in, and the chin projects. He wore a handker
chief on his head; a dark cloth jacket, the collar and cufts of which
were covered with broad gold lace; a white vest; a neckcloth, or cra
vat, after the fashion of fifty years ago, and a sarong hanging about
the lower limbs. We were seated at a small table, on which were
placed a variety of confections and fruits — mangustins, durians, du-
kus, and three sorts of ranibutan. Coffee was first served, and after
the fruit, a glass of wine, of which, however, the prince did not par
take. When the repast was over, the Adipatti brought forward several
krises of exquisite workmanship. The hilts were of hard wood,
and the scabbards, the making of which is a separate trade, of
wrought gold set with diamonds and precious stones. The blades
were redolent of musk, of dark color, and damasked so as to resem
ble the grain of wood, by the admixture of a metal found on the
islands of Blllton and Celebes. The kris blade is often envenomed
with a poison prepared from the Upas and other plants; I was
assured, while in Batavia, there is no plant on the island which is not
eaten by some one of the lower classes of animals. The price of a kris
blade, newly manufactu red, varies from half a rupee (20 cents) to fifty
dollars; and if its descent can be traced for three or four generations,
is frequentiy prized at ten times that sum. But of all the articles of
Javan workmanship, I most admired a set of chessmen, one half of
virgin gold, the other of pure silver, wrought most beautifully in
filligree.

ISLAND OF JAVA. 235
In an hour we took leave of Wiera Watta and returned to the
hotel, where we were detained all the afternoon by heavy rain. The
next morning between six and seven o'clock, v/e set off for Batavia,
much gratified by our visit, and invigorated by fhe bracing and
elastic air of the hills. Our return journey was as rapid as our
coming, and characterised by the same sort of vociferation and whip
accompaniments.

CHAPTER XXII.

SKETCHES IN JAVA.

February, 1836.
The island of Java — called by the natives T&na, (the land) Jawa
orMisa (the island) — extends between the meridians of 105° 11', and
114° 33' of longitude east of Greenwich; and between the parallels
of 5° 52' and 8° 46' of south latitude. It is separated by the straits
of Sunda, a few miles in breadth, from the island of Sumatra, which
stretches away to the northward and westward for more than a thou
sand miles. It is of a rectangular form, and has numerous small
islands on its northern coast. Its extreme length from east to west
is 666 miles, and its breadth varies from 135 to 56 miles; its superfi
cies is estimated at 50,000 square miles. It is mountainous, volcanic
and well-watered. " The whole country, as seen from mountains of
considerable elevation, appears a rich, diversified and well watered
garden, animated with villages, interspersed with the most luxuriant
fields and covered with the freshest verdure."
The population is estimated at 6,000,000, or more than one hun
dred to the square mile.
The established religion is that of Mohammed, the earliest notice
of which in Javan annals is A. D. 1250. This religion was estab
lished in 1475, previous to which period the Hindoo faith was alone
acknowledged. In 1511. the Portuguese found a Hindoo king at

336 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF JAVA.
Bantam; but, with inconsiderable exceptions, the whole island was
converted during the sixteenth century by the priests of Islamism,
under the protection of the then declining power of the caliphs. A
few at Bantam still adhere to the worship of the lingu; and nume
rous temples and pieces of Hindoo sculpture, generally in ruin, are
to be met with in almost every part of the island.
Soon after doubling the cape of Good Hope, Alfonso de Albu
querque visited Sumatra, in 1510, and the following year he sent An
tonio de Abrew to Java and the Moluccas. The Portuguese were
followed by the Dutch, and in 1595, Hautman sailed direct for Ban
tam with a fleet, and obtained permission to build a factory there,
which was the first settlement formed by the Dutch in the East In
dies. Following the example of the Dutch, the English East India
Company, immediately after its incorporation by Queen Elizabeth in
1600, sent out Captain Lancaster with four vessels. He sailed first
to Acheen, and thence to Bantam, where he established a factory,
the first British possession in India.
The first Dutch Governor-General, Bolt, arrived at Bantam, in
1610, and, finding the situation of his countrymen in that province
not favorable to the establishment of a permanent settlement, removed
to Jakatra. On the 4th of March, 1621, the name of Batavia was
conferred upon the new establishment, which, from that period, be
came the capital of the Dutch East Indian empire.
In 1683, the English withdrew from Bantam.
In 1811, Holland becoming a province of France, the French flag
was hoisted at Batavia; and on the 11th of September, of the same
year, the British government was declared supreme on Java, by a
proclamation signed by the Earl of Minto, then Governor-General
of Bengal. On the 17th of the same month, a capitulation was en
tered into, which placed all the dependencies in the hands of Great
Britain. On the 13th of August, 1814, a bargain was made by Vis
count Castlereagh, on the part of his Britannic majesty, restoring
to the Dutch the whole of their former possessions in the eastern isl
ands; and on the 19th of August, 1816, the flag of the Netherlands
again floated at Batavia.
For this restoration the English in India never cease to regret, and
deprecate the policy which led to it, whenever the subject is men
tioned; but in those days, kingdoms and provinces changed hands
with as littie ceremony as estates under the hammer of the auc
tioneer. The administration of the colonial government is confided to the

GOVERNMENT OF JAVA. 237
Governor-General, or Lieutenant-governor, with their secretaries and
deputies, and four counsellors appointed by the king. But the Gover
nor-General, it may be said, is absolute; for when the council does not
agree to his propositions, he is at liberty to assume the responsibility
and put them in execution. The officers of the administration rarely
meet together for the transaction of public business, being required
only to send their written votes, sometiines accompanied by argu
ments, from their several homes, when the Governor thinks proper
to submit any measure to their consideration.
The detail is managed by officers termed Residents, one being at
the head of each of the departments, called residencies, into which
the island is divided.
While in the hands of the English, many changes and improve
ments were made in the ancient system of government; and when
they restored the island, in 1816, it was in a comparatively flourish
ing condition; but owing to various circumstances, as increased com
petition in Indian commerce after the general peace, and the condi
tion in which the continued wars had left agricultural pursuits, Hol
land received little advantage from possessing Java up to 1824, when
the warlike attempts of the Javans, headed by Dipo Negoro, to expel
tiie Dutch, formed a weighty obstacle to profitable commercial en
terprise:* nor was tranquillity restored until 1830, when the Gover
nor-General tampered with the prosperity of the island by making a
series of unsuccessful and expensive agricultural experiments.
Van den Bosch, the Governor-General, fancied that tea could be
cultivated with great profit; and in 1831, established a plantation at
Bandong, where he spared no expense which was likely in his opinion
to ensure success, but the shrubs perished one after the other. Ano
ther plantation was begun at Krawang, the crop from which, for
1833, was to be, by his estimate, 75,000 lbs.; but it only produced
2,000 lbs., and he abandoned farther trials on an extensive scale. To
make room for the tea plants in this plantation, he cut down more
than 2,000,000 coffee trees, which reduced the coffee crop at least
5000 piculs.
About the sarae time he made an attempt to grow silk, but was
equally unfortunate.
Indigo also attracted his attention. Its cultivation was tried and
abandoned by Governor Dandels; and afterwards re-established by
• Memoires sur la guere de I'ile de Java de 1825, a 1830, par le Major F. V. A.
De Stuers— Folio h Leyde, 1833.

238 AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENTS.
Petel, continued by du Bus and followed up by Van den Bosch.
He was sanguine in his expectations, and to make room for the indigo
plants, cut down 5,000,000 coffee trees in 1830, estimating his crop
at 1,000,000 lbs. of indigo, but only realized 46,000 lbs, which cost
the government 196 cents per. lb. In 1832, 133,3801 pounds of
indigo were delivered to the government stores, which cost from ten
to eleven florins, per. lb. — and the following year 203,000 pounds
were afforded at a somewhat less expense.
In 1830 he attempted to force the cultivation of sugar, but what
was made at that period cost the government twelve florins the picul
when it was selling for ten in Europe. And it was not till 1832,
when the price of coffee rose, that attention was given to restore the
plantations which had been destroyed for the sake of indigo, tea, and
sugar. The effects of these experiments will be seen in the follow
ing statement of the coffee crops for several years.
In 1830 the coffee crop was 62,174 piculs.
1831 " " " 39,005 "
1832 " " " 53,293 "
1833 " " " 64,788 "
The agricultural experiments of the Governor General cost, in 1833,
not less than $75,000, and in the following year, $65,500.*
The government now rents lands for the cultivation of sugar cane
on apparently advantageous terms. The land and seed for the first
year are furnished, and an advance is made of thirty or forty thou
sand florins in form of a loan without interest, which the tenant pays
in sugar at a stipulated price, the quantity to be delivered annually
being fixed with reference to the quality of the soil and extent of
the plantation leased.f
The revenue for the year 1834, is stated at 15,411,986 florins.
Batavia is the centre of an extensive commerce carried On with
nearly all parts of India, China, Japan, Europe and the United
States. The staple articles of export to the last two, are coffee and
sugar; but they are so monopolized by the government, that the trade,
it is to be feared, will be soon exclusively carried on in Dutch
bottoms. * Kort Overzift der Financiale Resultaten Van het Stelsel van Kultures onder
den Gouverneur-General Van den Bosch, 1835.
t Blik op Het Bestuur Van Nederlandscli — Indie Onder den Gouverneur-Ge
neral J. Van den Bosch, 1835, pp. 204.

COMMERCE  COFFEE  SUGAR. 239
Coffee was introduced from Arabia into Java, about the beginning
of the eighteenth century, and seems at once to have attracted the
attention and care of the colonists. The soil and climate are admi
rably adapted to its cultivation and almost an indefinite quantity
might be produced; perhaps enough to supply the present demand
of the whole world. ^

Export

OF

c

OFFEE

FROM Java in 1835.

Character of Vessel.

Number of Piculs.

Dutch,

363,080
American,
56,435
French,
17,177
English,
1,145
Swedish,
-
535
Hybro,
-
403
Total number of piculs, 438,775
The quantity of coffee exported from Padang, (Sumatra) has
greatiy increased in the last five years. In 1835, it amounted to
90,000 piculs.t
Export
of Sugar from Java
IN
1835.
Character of Vessel,
Number of Piculs^
Dutch,
-
265,784
American,
-
75,068
French,
.
2,145
English,
.
25,175
Swedish,
.
-
-3,691
Hybro,
-
-
400
Total number of piculs, 372,263
But it must not be supposed that all the coffee and sugar exported
from Java in American vessels, find their way to the LTnited States:
many ships carry their cargoes from Batavia to Europe, where they
are exchanged for merchandise suited to our market.
An idea of the extent of American trade maybe formed from the
following table, which exhibits the number of vessels with their ag
gregate tonnage, that have visited Java for ten years.
• Dissertatio Historico-politica de commercio et interns administrationis forma
possessionura Batavarum in India Orientali. 1833— pp. 138— a neat brochure
replete with statistical notes.
t A picul is equal to 133i pounds avoirdupois.
240 AMERICAN TRADE.
Years. No. of Vessels. No. of Tons.
1825 - - - 38  12,962
1826 - - 22 - - - - 7,700
1827 .... 19 . - 6,250
1828 ... 14 . - 2,086
1829 ... 12 - 4,356
1830 . . . 13 . . - - 4,050
1831 - . 22 - - - 7,516
1832 - 35 - - - 12,338
1833 - . . 67 - - - 23,220,
1834 - . 42 - - - - 16,551
The value of the trade, in a commercial point of view, may be esti
mated at one million of dollars a year. It is set down that each ves
sel is provided with the means, either merchandise or bills, of raising
$60,000 to invest in Java; and, taking theyear 1834, on this estimate
the value of our commerce would be $1,520,000. But we must take
into consideration that a number of these vessels also visit China and
Manila, and return again to Batavia: this happens when, arriving out
of season, the coffee and sugar crops are not ready for delivery, and
the time, which otherwise might be lost, is filled up, carrying rice to
Canton, either from Java or the Philippines. But, nationally consi
dered, the estimate must be greater. If we reckon six seamen to the
hundred tons, we shall have nearly a thousand people employed, ex
posed to all the vicissitudes of climate, of profession, and of piracy,
together with the value of the ships, which may be another million,
in addition to that of their cargoes. The number of lives and amount
of property are sufficiently great, one might suppose, to call for the
constant vigilance and protection of the government; but, until within
late years, the commerce has been carried on without interruption,
and this is the chief reason why a naval force has not been kept in
India, the government being satisfied by despatching a vessel of war
occasionally from the Pacific station, to pass this way on her return
to the United States. Since the conclusion of the commercial trea
ties with the Sultan of Muscat, and His Magnificent Majesty of
Siam, it is presuraable our commercial interests will increase; and,
including our pepper trade, that with China and the Philippines, we
may at present estimate American property annually at risk beyond
the cape of Good Hope, to be worth ten millions of dollars. Pira
cies on the coast of Sumatra, and throughout the China seas, are of al
most daily occurrence, and the escape of American vessels is to be set
down to remarkable good fortune, rather than the absence of danger.

EXCHANGE-BANK OF BATAVIA. 241
It is presumable that the government will see the necessity and advan
tage of keeping a small naval force in those parts of the world for the
future: how far the policy of keeping more force than just enough to
act as a check to piracy, would affect our interests is matter for the
consideration of those who are possessed of a more intimate know
ledge of the Asiatics, insular and continental, than I pretend to.
For the purchase of produce at Batavia, funds are obtained by the
importation of merchandise and specie, and by the sale of bills on
London. In February, 1836, bills on London at six months' sight,
sold at the rate of twelve guilders per pound sterling; Spanish dol
lars being worth at the same time two and a quarter guilders each, or
225 guilders for 100 dollars. Spanish dollars have been, at times, at
an advance of 33 per cent.
Accounts are kept in guilders and cents, one hundred to the guil
der. All the coins in circulation are imported from Holland; but
there is a bank at Batavia which issues paper. This bank was esta
blished in 1828, with a capital of 2,000,000 of guilders, and is under
the direction of a president, a secretary and three commercial direc
tors, the first two being appointed by the king. It issues two kinds
of paper; notes of from twenty-five to one thousand guilders, paya
ble in silver; and notes of a smaller denomination, payable in cop
per, which are denominated copper-paper. Before the issue of these
notes, there existed a sort of treasury draft, which was converted
into specie at broker shops, called " Vervisselings Kantoor."
The chief article of export to China is rice, which is sent there in
large quantities. The edible birds' nest is an important article of the
Java trade. It is of a cream white color, semi-translucent, and in shape
and size like a quarter of an orange. It is muco-albuminous, and,
in soup, possesses little or no taste; at least to the European palate.
The quantity and value of birds' nests, sent to China, are exhibited
in the following table.

Year.

Piculs;

lbs.

Value in Florins.

Dollars. Cts.

1829.

260 or

34,666|

435,622 or

193,609.77

1830.

261 «

34,800

448,419 "

194,893.73

1831.

255 "

34,000

334,760 "

149,226.66

1832.

244 «

32,533i

408,355 "

181,451.11

1833.

333 "

44,400

559,492 "

249,107.55

1834-

204 "

27,200

350,032 "

155,569.77

By this table, they are worth at the rate of about four dollars and
thirty-eight cents per lb.; much less than in former years.

242 ESCULENT birds' NESTS.
" The quantity of edible birds' nests alone, annually exported from
Java to China on vessels of this description, is estimated at not less
than two hundred piculs, of which by far the largest proportion is
the produce of the Javan rocks and hills. It is well known, that
these are the nests of a species of swallow (Hirundo esculenta) com
mon in the Malayan islands, and in great demand for the China
table. Their value as a luxury, in that empire, has been estimated
on importation to be weight for weight equal with silver. The
price which those nests of the best quality have of late years brought
in the Canton and Amoi market, has been forty Spanish dollars per
Mti, of rather raore than a pound and a quarter English. They are
usually classed into first, second, and third sorts, differing in price
from forty to fifteen Spanish dollars, and even to ten and less for
the most ordinary. The price in the Batavian market rises as the
period for the departure of the junks approaches; but as the princi
pal produce of Java is still a monopoly in the hands of government,
it is difficult to fix the price at which they might be sold under
other circumstances. Generally speaking, however, they sell through
out the Eastern islands considerably lower than they are calculated
to do in China, which may be accounted for by the perishable na
ture of the commodity, and the great care necessary to preserve
thera from the damp, as well as from breakage. On this account
they are seldom bought by European traders. Birds'-nests con
signed by the Javan government to the Canton factory in 1813, sold
to the amount of about fifty piculs, at an average rate of about
twenty dollars per Mti: but this was at a period when the Chinese
markets were unusually low.
" The quantity of birds' nests obtained frora the rocks called
Karang Bolang, on the southern coast of Java, and within the pro
vinces of the native princes, is estimated, one year with another, at
a hundred piculs, and is calculated to afford an annual revenue to
the government of two hundred thousand Spanish dollars. The
quantity gathered, besides, by individuals, on rocks and hills be
longing to them, either in private property or held by farra from the
government, in other parts of the island, may amount to Mij piculs;
making the extent of this export not less than one hundred and fifty
piculs, besides the amount of the collections from the other islands
of the Archipelago.
" In the Malayan islands, in general, but little care is taken of the
rocks and caverns which produce this dainty, and the nests pro
cured are neither so numerous nor so good as they otherwise would

ESCULENT birds' NESTS. 243
be. On Java, where perhaps the birds are fewer, and the nests in
general less fine than those to be met with in some of the more East
ern islands, both the quantity and quality have been considerably
improved by European management. To effect this improvement,
the caverns which the birds are found to frequent, are cleansed by
smoking and the burning of sulphur, and the destruction of all the
old nests. The cavern is then carefully secured from the approach
of man, the birds are left undisturbed to form their nests, and the
gathering takes place as soon as it is calculated that the young are
fledged. If they are allowed to remain until the eggs are again laid
in them, they lose their pure color and transparency, are no longer
of what are termed the first sort. They are sometimes collected so
recently after their formation, that time has not been given for the
birds to lay or hatch her eggs in thera, and these nests are con
sidered as the most superior; but as the practice, if carried to any
extent, would prevent the number of the birds from increasing, it is
seldom resorted to, where the caverns are in the possession of those
who have a permanent interest in their produce. Much of their excel
lence and peculiar properties, however, depend on the situation of the
place in which they are formed. It has often been ascertained, for
instance, that the same bird forms a nest of somewhat different
quality, according as it constructs it in the deep recesses of an un
ventilated and damp cavern, or attaches it to a place where the at
mosphere is dry and the air circulates freely. The nature of the
different substances also to which they are fixed, seems to have some
influence on their properties. The best are procured in the deepest
caverns (the favorite retreat of the birds,) where a nitrous dampness
continually prevails, and where being formed against the sides of the
cavern, they imbibe a nitrous taste, without which they are little
esteemed by the Chinese. The principal object of the proprietor of
a birds' nest rock, is to preserve sufficient numbers of the swallows,
by not gathering the nests too often, or abstracting those of the finer
kinds in too great numbers, lest the birds should quit their habita
tions, and emigrate to a more secure and inaccessible retreat. It is
not unusual for a European, when he takes a rock under his super
intendence, after ridding it of the old nests and fumigating the
caverns, to allow the birds to remain undisturbed, two, or three, or
even more years, in order that they may multiply for his future ad
vantage. When a birds'-nest rock is once brought into proper
order, it will bear two gatherings in the year: this is the case with

244 birds of paradise — staple products.
the rocks under the care of the officers of the government at Karang
Bolang. " In the vicinity of the rocks are usually found a number of per
sons accustomed from their infancy to descend into these caverns, in
order to gather the nests; an office of the greatest risk and danger,
the best nests being sometimes many hundred feet within the damp
and slippery opening of the rock. The gatherers are sometimes
obliged to lower themselves by ropes (as at Karang Bolang) over im
mense chasms, in which the surf of a turbulent sea dashes with the
greatest violence, threatening instant destruction in the event of a
false step or an insecure hold. The people employed by government
for this purpose, were formerly slaves, in the domestic service of the
minister or resident at the native court. To them the distribution
of a few dollars, and the preparation of a buffalo feast after each
gathering, was thought sufficient pay, and the sum thus expended
constituted all the disbursements attending the gathering and pack
ing, which is conducted by the same persons. This last operation
is, however, carefully superintended by the resident, as the slightest
neglect would essentially deteriorate the value of the commodity."*
Birds of Paradise of several varieties are exported from Batavia;
the annual number being about 1 500, valued at 10,000 florins. They
are brought thither in small trading craft from New Guinea, or Par
pua and the Arae Islands, the only places where they have been
hitherto found.
Within a few years tobacco has been successfully cultivated from
seed brought from Cuba, the cigars made frora it are of a very agree
able flavor, and will probably becorae a staple article in the market.
The following table exhibits the export of the staple articles which
enter into the trade between Java and Europe and the United States.
Articles,
Coffee, Sugar,
Rice, Indigo, Tin,Peppei', -
Hides,

1833.
360,166 piculs.
210,947 "
849,000 "
217,480 lbs.

1834.
455,000 piculs.
375,000 "
700,000 "
it
39,000 "
7,000 "
54,000 no.

1835.
438,775 piculs.
372,263 "

. ..... "

"=

ii

. , "

Tin is obtained at Banka in very large quantities, where the mines
fire worked exclusively by Chinese under the direction of the Dutchi
* Raffles' History of .Tava, vol. 1.

DUTCH TRADE WITH JAPAN. 245
The great increase in the production of pepper in Sumatra has
caused its cultivation in Java to be very much neglected. Pepper
grows in the islands of Java, Sumatra and Ceylon, and on the coast
of Malabar. It is propagated by carefully selected shoots, and
flourishes in a hot sun, a strong soil, and requires to be cleared of the
plants which grow about its roots, particularly during the first three
years. The vine does not yield fruit until the end of the third year;
in the first three years of fructification, some plants afford six or
seven pounds of pepper; after that the quantity decreases until the
twelfth year, when the vine becomes steril. The Americans at
present carry on the pepper trade on the coast of Sumatra, probably
to a greater extent than any other nation.
Commerce with Japan has been carried on by the Dutch from Ba
tavia for many years to the exclusion of all other Christian nations,
but they possess this lucrative trade at the expense of every thing
like independence and manly feeling. They have a factory at Nan-
gasaki for the transaction of business, limited to one or two ships a
year, which sail from Batavia about the first of July and return in the
beginning of January. On arriving at Nangasaki, the arms and am
munition, and the crew are lodged on shore; and while there, it is
necessary to conceal, with the most scrupulous care, all signs of
Christianity, nor can the individuals of the crew have any other than
Dutch names, at the risk of the vessel being excluded from the port.
To guard against ships of other nations entering Nangasaki under
Dutch colors, the annual ship, on leaving Japan is supplied with a
signal flag, carefully sealed up, which is displayed by the vessel
making the succeeding yearly voyage, on approaching the port.
The Japanese are represented as being very curious in their in
quiries, on the arrival of the yearly ship, in relation to the news of
Europe, and delight in being told of the rise and fall of empires,
of great battles, and of the marriages and deaths of kings and princes.
We are told that they never manifest gratitude, except for informa
tion of this nature. How far and how correctly the Dutch satisfy
them in this respect, as well as most things in relation to the trade,
is kept secret, as far as possible.
The chief of the factory is obliged to visit the capital every fourth
year, at the expense of $9557, and to send there every year that he
does not go himself, an interpreter of the establishment, at the cost
of $4424; making an average annual charge against the trade of
$3849. The following statement exhibits the cargo of the Japan bound

246

DUTCH TRADE

ship or ships; for when only one vessel is despatched the same amount
and kind of property is sent.

Articles.

QrUantity.

Value in Florins

'Sandal wood.

400 piculs.

7,000

s

Sappan wood.

1500 "

8,000

I'l

Cocoanut oil.

200 "

3,500

Ivory,

<<

10,000

Pepper,

75 "

1,000

1^

Rattans,

620 "

3,000

aS-g

Cloves, Sugar,

100 "
7,000 "

6,000
100,000

.Tin,
400 «
14,000
'Lead,
50 piculs.
900
American soap.
200 boxes.
500
Earthenware,
5,000
Ammunition,
1,000
ll
Gold and Silver manufactures.
1,500
Glass ware.
4,500
^1
Woollens,
65,000
s"!'
Cotton manufactures,
75,000
Medicine,
500
¦f:!
Provisions,
2,500
R^l
Saffron,
500
Stationery,
100
Paints,
150
Wines,
300
^Quicksilver,
1,000
Opium, arrack, iron-ware, books. Sac. in small quantities, the whole
cargo being estimated at 312,000 florins.
The return cargo, received in exchange for the above goods, on an
average of six years, is stated as follows:
Articles.
Quantities.
Value in Florins.
Camphor,
550 tubs of 100 lb. each.
44,000
Copper,
9,000 piculs.
630,000
Porcelain,
3,500
Clothing,
4,000
Crapes,
3,000
Laquered ware,
16,000
Linen goods.
12,000
Baskets,
3,000
Sakie and Soya,
8,000
Silks,
3,000
Furniture,
800
WITH JAPAN. 247
Wax, medicine, gold, curiosities, toys, &c. the whole invoice be
ing estimated at 730,000 florins.
Statement of the gross Amount of Exports and Imports, to
AND from Japan for nine Years.
Years. Florins. Florins.
1825. To Japan, 373,853 From Japan, 875,405
1826. " 23,366 « 161,615
1827. « 409,270 « 663,405
1828. « 313,313 « 1,067,231
1829. « 407,145 « 692,979
1830. « 340,254 " 1,079,500
1831. " 261,536 " 704,950
1832. " 207,880 " 569,130
1833. " 264,838 " 510,039

The average amount of imports into Batavia from Japan for the
above period, exceeds that of the exports for the same time by a lit
tle more than four hundred thousand guilders or florins, per annum.
To this may be added the duty received by the Dutch government
on the copper and camphor, when again exported, say 50,000 florins;
and the six per cent, import duty on the private adventures of super
cargoes, say 50,000 florins, making the whole excess 500,000 flo
rins. Some years the copper is coined, and perhaps, after deducting
the mint charges, pays much better than it would, were it given to the
trade. The above statements are taken from the books of the customs,
where the exports are set down at their highest value, and the im
ports at the invoice price.
This sketch will convey an idea of the importance of the commerce
with Japan to the Dutch government; after deducting 200,000 florins
for the expenses of agents, freight, &c. there is a net profit of 300,000
florins a year. The trade is conducted in a most expensive manner,
and, with a strict regard to economy, might be made more profita
ble.* • For the tables relating to the commerce of Java, the author has to express
his acknowledgments to O. M. Roberts, Esq. American Consul at Batavia, and to
Mr. F. V. B. Morris.

248

TRADE WITH JAPAN.

When we see a nation or a company of men consenting to be
treated as menials, to hide their religious opinions, and subject them
selves to the capricious and fantastical laws of a people they deem
every way inferior to themselves, for the sake of gaining a hundred
and thirty or forty thousand dollars a year, we must cease to regard
them with that respect which is the right of every high-minded and
honorable society; or feel ourselves ready to sink into competition,
and, making equal or greater sacrifices, strive to obtain a share of
the dear-bought profits. Whatever might be the advantages to the
United States of a commerce with Japan or any other nation, let us
hope that it will be established, only on the basis of reciprocity;
"asking for nothing, which is not clearly right, nor submitting to
any thing that is manifestly wrong." On any other footing, it were
better to leave the pecuniary advantages to those slaves and base
panders, whose moral condition may be so pliant as to allow them to
succumb to any terms for money.

SKETCHES IN SIAM

32

departure from JAVA. 251

CHAPTER XXIII.
VOYAGE TO, AND SKETCHES IN SIAM.
March, 1836.
The uninterrupted rains and a heavy sea, breaking almost constant
ly over a sand bar at the mouth of the canal, detained us many days
longer than we designed to have remained in the roads of Batavia.
On several occasions the surf was so great, that even the light boats
of the ship were not able to embark; and the lighters, loaded as they
were very deeply with stores, were very much less trust-worthy.
However, on the 16th of February we were ready for sea, and about
five o'clock P. M. got under way; but the wind failing, we again an
chored off the island of Onrust, the site of the naval arsenal of Batavia.
The veil of clouds that had so constantly hidden the highland of
Java, was drawn for a few minutes at sunset, and afforded us a
view of the bold mountain scenes of the interior. It is picturesque,
and would afford a fit subject for the pencil.
Though we had every reason to be gratified by the attentions we
had received, we bade farewell to Batavia without regret, owing
probably to that influence which circumstances are wont to exercise
over our feelings. The kindness we every where met with on shore
was not sufficient to counteract the depressing effects of sultry
weather and almost constant rain, coupled with the difficulty of get
ting to and from the ship, under such circumstances. Under another
state of things we might have viewed Batavia as a city of palaces, a
paradise on earth, and considered the day of departure as a day of
grief. The following morning we again made sail and stood towards the
entrance of the straits of Banka, between the island of that name
and Sumatra. Owing to the head winds and currents our progress
was slow, and the crew was subjected to hard labor, from the neces
sary frequency of anchoring and getting under way. The strait is

252 BANKA — SUMATRA — PIRATES.
tortuous in its course, from three to seven miles wide, and about a
hundred miles long: its shores are low, and thickly wooded to the
water's edge, rendering it next to impossible to land.
" Just before sailing from Batavia, that terrible scourge of armies
and of ships, dysentery, made its appearance on board, and before
we cleared this strait, we buried two of the crew, William Lewis
and Charles Fisher, the first deaths among us up to this period of
the cruise.
Tbe island of Bankais fertile, and some of its valleys are well cul
tivated, yielding fruits and rice; but it is chiefly esteemed for the
great quantities of tin produced, the ore of which is supposed to con
stitute a great part of the island. The chief town, Mintow, is the
head quarters of the Dutch, by whom it was wrested, many years
ago, from the Sultan of Palambang.
Sumatra is an extensive island, and besides a variety of spices,
produces pepper and coffee in very considerable quantities. On this
island the Dutch possess three important places; Palambang, Pa
dang and Bencoolen; the latter two are on the west coast.* Our
pepper-traders, however, generally resort to the native ports to the
northward, Pulo-Raia, Telogulopang, Muckie, South Talapow, Tru-
mond and Qualla-Battoo. The inhabitants are Malays, treache
rous and warlike, and for many years their piratical prahtis and
boats have been the terror of merchant vessels, not only in the
straits of Banka and Malacca, but on the western coast of Sumatra
and throughout the China Sea. Lately their depredations, owing to
the activity of English and Dutch government cruisers, have been less
frequent, but they are still sufficiently numerous to require the pre
sence of a strong force to keep them in check. f The chastisement
inflicted on the Malays at Qualla-Battoo, by Commodore Downes, in
the United States Frigate Potomac, in 1832, was a serviceable lesson,
which might teach them that murder and theft cannot be committed
upon our citizens in any part of the world, so distant that the strong
arm of our power cannot reach. J It is to be hoped that the occa
sional appearance of American vessels of war will deter them, for
the future, from any act requiring punishment at our hands; though
it would not be politic to trust, altogether, that their memory of the
* For a description of these islands, see Marsden's Histoiy of Sumatra.
j; White's Yoyage to the China Sea. Boston, 1823. The Chinese Reposi
tory is replete with instances of the piratical depredations of the Malays.
i Voyage of the United States Frigate Potomac, by J. N. Reynolds.

CLIMATE  ISLAND OF BORNEO. 253
past will be a guarantee for their good conduct in the future: to
ensure it, they must be kept in awe. At present, they are in arms
against the Dutch; and, from the small force opposed to the rebels,
it would not be a matter of surprise if the Netherland tyrants were
expelled from the island. The Dutch say, that these rebellions
against their authority have been excited, in almost every instance,
by the machinations of the English.
Leaving the north opening of the strait of Banka, we stretched
eastward till we saw the west coast of Borneo, and then beat to the
nortiiward, some days making only ten or fifteen miles. The ther
mometer ranged at about 82° F.; but we had here most palpable evi
dence, that the thermometer is no criterion of our perception of tem
perature. The ofiicers, in most instances, resorted to their cloth
clothing; and at night, the seamen put on their pea-jackets. The air
was chilly, even when the sun was shining clear. I have remarked
again and again in different parts of the world, that, under the same
thermometric range in the temperate and torrid zones, there is a dif
ference in our sense of heat, of at least ten degrees. When the ther
mometer is at 85° F. within the tropics, at sea particularly, the sen
sation of heat is probably not greater than where it stands at 75° F.
beyond the torrid belt. The hottest weather I have experienced in
tropical climates, was at Muscat, when the thermometer ranged from
89° to 92°, yet, I think, I have suffered more from heat at Philadel
phia, when it ranged frora 79° to 83° F. Besides the constitution of
the atmospheric fluid, its temperature and state of moisture, there is
something more to be understood, probably its electrical condition,
before we can explain what is termed climate; but we may not pause
here to discuss the question.
The island of Borneo, after New Holland the largest in the world;
it is to christian nations almost a terra incognita; the interior is
unknown toallbutthesavage tribes that inhabit it. Some of the mari
time parts are well known to the Dutch, who have establishments on the
west coast, at Sambas and Pontiana: but in this, as well as in many
other parts of the East, much of the information which they have col
lected, remains locked up in the archives of their government, and
scarcely a ray of light, that it is in their power to conceal, is allowed
to issue forth for the benefit of other Europeans, or of the poor de
graded natives. Several English adventurers have made short jour
neys on land, or sailed up rivers; and a few individuals have resided
several months or years on the coasts, to whom we are indebted for
what information we possess.

254 WEST ISLAND  DAYAKS OF BORNEO.
The population is estimated at 3,500,000, and is made up of Ma
lays, Chinese, Bugis, Javans, Dayaks, and a few Europeans. With
the exception of the Dayaks, (the aboriginal inhabitants, said to be
entirely destitute of religion,) who occupy the interior, all the, other
tribes named, inhabit the coasts. The Malays practise their pirati
cal propensities; the Chinese and Bugis engage in comraerce; the
Javans are peaceful cultivators of the soil, while the savage Dayaks
murder for pastime, and glory in cutting off human heads; he who
has most of these bloody trophies, standing highest in the eyes of wife
or paramour.
The products are camphor, pepper, sago, opium, wax, rattans; birds'
nests, tortoise and pearl shells; gold, gold-dust, antimony and dia
monds, which are exported to China and Singapore, by the East In
dians, and to Europe, by the Dutch, The coast is famous for pirates,
and the interior for Dayaks and ourang outangs; some of which, it
is said, measure seven feet high. I suspect this to be a mistake, for
I saw one from this island, at Batavia, whose stature did not exceed
three and a half feet, and I believe the largest hitherto in European
collections does not exceed four.
Numerous small islands are strewed along the west coast, which
render the navigation somewhat intricate, and afford convenient hiding
places for the Malay pirates: we visited one of these called West Isl
and, and found three good streams of water.
"The occupations of the Dayaks are various. More of them are
engaged in agricultural employments, chiefly in the cultivation of
rice, than is generally supposed by those who know nothing of them,
except v/hat they have learned from geography and brief newspaper
notices. Probably, more are employed in this, than any other occu
pation. And those who are employed, are generally inclined to be
peaceful. In the Memoir of Sir S. Raffles, we find the following
character given of them. ' The Dayaks are not only industrious in
their habits, but particularly devoted to agriculture; and so manage
able, that a handful of Malays have, in many instances, reduced many
thousands to the condition of peaceful cultivators of the ground. In
deed nothing seems wanting to effect this on a great scale, but a strong
government, which can afford protection to property, and safety to
individuals; and in the case of the Dayaks, 1 regard it as an advan
tage, that they have not hitherto adopted the religion of Islam, and
would consequently be more ready, from the first, to regard us as
their friends and protectors.'
" Many of them are engaged in other useful avocations, such as col-

HUNTING HUMAN HEADS BY THE DAYAKS. 255
lecting camphor, birds' nests, rattans, beeswax, and other products
of the forests, and also in mining for diamonds, searching for gold
dust, and the manufacture of such articles as they use for clothing or
ornament of their persons, or implements of husbandry, mining or
war. But the occupation for which they are most notorious, is that
of ' head-hunting.' Respecting the fact that the men must procure
at least one head before they can marry, and that they preserve the
heads and skulls of persons they have slain, as trophies and orna
ments, there can be no reasonable doubt. It is asserted, so far as we
can learn, by everyone who has had any proper opportunity to know
the truth respecting it. Mr. Dalton gives us the fullest account that
we have seen of the manner in which they proceed to procure heads,
and I will therefore transcribe the substance of it. Selji, the chief
with whom he lived, had with him, on a head-hunting expedition, for
ty large canoes from eighty to one hundred feet in length. They are
made of a kind of beech, which grows to an amazing height. They
carry from forty to eighty men, and, as all use paddles, they move
with almost incredible swiftness. In proceeding towards a distant
village, the canoes are never seen on the river during the day. They
commence their journey about half an hour after dark, and pull si
lently along near the bank of the river. One boat keeps directly be
hind another, and the handles of the paddles are covered with the
soft bark ofa tree, so that no noise is made. About half an hour be
fore daylight, they pull the boat up upon the banks, and conceal them
selves among the trees and jungle. Here they sleep and feed upon
monkeys, snakes, wild hogs, and whatever animals they can obtain;
and if animals cannot be procured, they live upon the young sprouts
of certain trees, and wild fruit. 'Should the rajah want flesh, and
it cannot be procured with the sumpit (native arrow,) one of his fol
lowers is killed.'
" Whilst part of them are hunting and cooking, others ascend the
highest trees to examine the country and observe if any village or hut
be near, which they know by the smoke. When the boats have
arrived within about a mile from a village, they prepare themselves
for the attack. About one-third of the party are sent forward to go
through the jungle and take their stations near the village in the night.
They place men in every path leading from the village, to intercept
any of the people who may attempt to escape. The rest of the party
come forward with their boats in such time as to arrive near the village
about an hour before daylight. They then put on their fighting dresses
and creep slowly forward, leaving, however, a few men in each boat.

256 HEAD-HUNTING IN BORNEO.
and about a dozen with the women who remain in the jungle. About
twenty minutes before day, they set fire to the village by throwing
fire balls upon the atap roofs. The war cry is raised, and the work
of murder commences. The male inhabitants are speared or cut
down with the sword, as they descend the ladders frora their dwellings
to escape the flames. The women and children are generally seized
by those who went forward to occupy the paths leading from the vil
lage. Should any of the villagers reach their boats, the plundering
party have their boats so stationed as to make an escape impossible.
This is an important object with them, as a single fugitive mightgive
information to other villages and prevent their future success. After
the women and children are collected, the old women are killed and
the heads of the men cut off, and preserved carefully, they being the
great objects of the expedition. 'From the last excursion,' says
Mr. D  , in 1828, ' Selji's people brought with them seven hun
dred heads.' The value and dignity of a warrior are estimated by
the number of heatls he has procured.
" No Dayak can marry the daughter of a warrior without having
previously taken a head or two. If a young man proposing to marry
has not so many as are required by the father of the bride, he mus-,
ters a few friends, takes a swift boat and leaves that part of the
country, and will not return till the number is complete, which is
frequently not till three or four months have elapsed. Some of the
Dayaks are cannibals, though they are not, like the Battaks of Suma
tra, generally so. They bury the arms of their warriors with their
bodies, and also some articles of food. They lay them in a grave
without a coffin, and set up some fresh heads over it. This descrip
tion of the great peculiarity of the Dayaks applies more particularly
to that part of them who are not civilized enough to become culti
vators of the soil, and are raised some degrees above what Mr. Dal
ton calls the wild Dayaks. The passion for heads, or rather the
custom of taking them, is, however, very general. When it is not
followed on the large scale described above, heads are procured gene
rally by way-laying some poor fishermen, who are beheaded without
resistance. It is difficult to imagine how so peculiar and barbarous
a custom could have originated, unless it were from love of military
glory.

"In personal appearance the Dayaks are much superior to the
Malays. They are generally taller and better formed. They also

GULF OF SIAM  FLOATING ISLANDS. 257
possess more strength and activity. In respect to these qualities,
they seem to compare well with the Indian tribes of North America,
whom they also resemble in some of their moral characteristics.
Their character has been viewed by Europeans generally through the
deceptive medium of a single trait, or rather a single custom. They
have heard that the Dayaks are in the habit of cutting off heads, and
that both men and women exult in the deed, and perhaps drink the
blood that flows from them; and they conclude that they must be the
most savage of all savages, in all their habits and in their whole charac
ter. Butin thusjudging, they do these poor brethren of our one great
family much injustice. It is indeed true that they have this custom,
and that perhaps nearly all the men have been guilty of murder; but
they ought not to be regarded like most murderers in other countries.
They seek for heads, as we would seek wealth or office; and they
constitute their wealth and honor. The Dayak head-hunter cherishes
no enmity towards the persons he kills, eitiier private or national.
They are probably less worthy of censure, and in the day of final
retribution will probably be less severely punished, than many an
individual in more enlightened countries who does a wrong merely
because it is customary to do it."*
After getting to the northward of the Natunas islands, the wind
hauled to the northward and eastward, and we stretched into the
gulf of Siam. The sea was smooth and the breeze gentie, and though
the range of the thermometer was but little altered, our sensation of
heat was much augmented.
In our passage up the gulf we fell in with several small floating
islandsof more than twenty feet in extent, covered with palm branches
and drifting about on tiie current. Numerous fish were playing
about their margins, and aquatic birds were circling round, and occa
sionally alighting on them. The gulf is the resort of a great num
ber of sea snakes of several varieties; no one of those we took ex
ceeded two feet in length. Some were brown and others mottled
with yellow. Several were caught in bags of bunting, fitted on small
hoops. By this means we took a number of specimens of Janthina,
upon which we found several young shells and diminutive cuttle fish,
not more than four lines long.
Early on the 25th of March, we found ourselves within a few hours'
sail of the mouth of the river Meinam; and in order to save time, the
Enterprise was despatched with the following communication.
• The Chinese HeposiUiry. vol. iv. 1835 — 6.
33

258 LETTER TO THE CHAO p'hAYA PRAH KLANG.
" To His Excellency tbe Chao P'haya Prah Klang. one of the first
ministers of state to His Magnificent Majesty the King of Siam:
"Edmund Roberts, Special Envoy from the United States of Ame
rica, has the honor to inform your Excellency, that he has arrived off
the bar of the Meinam, in the United States Ship Peacock, command
ed by Captain Stribling, accompanied by the United States Schooner
Enterprise, Captain Campbell, the squadron being under the com
mand of Commodore Kennedy.
" The Envoy begs leave to state, that he has brought back the trea
ty, which he had the honor to conclude between His Majesty of Siam
and the United States of America, on the 20th day of March, in the
year 1833, and which was ratified on the part of his government, on
the SOth day of June, 1834, and which is now returned for the pur
pose of exchanging it for its counterpart in the possession of Siam,
on its being duly ratified by His Majesty, and the royal seal of the
kingdom affixed to the articles of the treaty, as well as to the neces
sary certificate of ratification.
" The Envoy has also the honor to inform your Excellency that he
has brought with him the articles. His Majesty of Siam, and your
Excellency requested should be sent, by the United States Govern
ment, with the exception of the stone statues, which could not be ob
tained, and also the trees and plants and seeds, which were destroyed
on the passage, the Peacock having been unfortunately wrecked about
six months since on the coast of Arabia; but the deficiency in the sta
tues has been repaired by purchasing an extra number of the most ele
gant and expensive lamps, together with some other articles.
"Your Excellency is therefore requested to send a suitable vessel
to receive the presents before alluded to, with an order directed to
me for their delivery. Your Excellency is further requested to fur
nish the Envoy with convenient and proper vessels, capable of pro
tecting from the inclemencies of the weather, himself, and officers,
and servants, who may accorapany him, to the number of twenty-five
persons, with ds little delay as possible, as the Envoy has to visit
many kingdoms, and has a great many thousands of miles of ocean
to traverse; to accomplish which, will necessarily occupy at least
twelve months.
"The undersigned has the honor to remain, with the highest consi
deration of esteem and respect, your Excellency's friend, &c. &c.
Edmund Roberts.
"Dated on board the United States Ship of war Peacock, in the
gulf of Siam, the 24th day of March, 1836."

SI-CIIAXG ISLANDS  WHITE SQUIRRELS. C59
The expression, your humble servant, &c. commonly used with us,
should always be carefully avoided in addressing communications to
Asiatics, because they construe it literally, and, in their opinion, it
places the writer in an inferior and inconsiderable position in regard to
themselves. Soon after the Enterprise separated from us, we anchored off the
largest of a group of small islands called Si-chang or Dutch islands,
situated about twenty miles from the mouth of the Meinam river, and
eight from the west coast of Cambodia. The island is not five miles
in extent; it is high, rocky, and covered with a thin soil and stunted
vegetation. In the afternoon, several parties of officers landed and walked in
different directions, to ascertain whether water could be obtained for
the ship; but, though it is said to be plenty in the rainy monsoon, we
found it to exist in very small quantities at this season. Several white
squirrels, a common blue pigeon, and an animal having the general
characteristics of a bat, but very much larger, were shot. The fly
ing-fox, as it is called (a species of pteropus) is very frequent through
out India. The head resembles that of a dog; the body is about eight
inches long, and the spread wings measure nearly four feet. The
irides are of an opaque yellow. They are often met with in the day,
suspended from leafless trees, hanging one from the other, in strings
and clusters. They make sjreat depredations on fruit trees and gar
dens, but are considered to be harmless in other respects.
In my excursion, I came upon a small religious temple, erected
near the shore, probably by fishermen, to propitiate their patron god.
It consisted of a wooden hut, raised on posts two feet above the
ground, bavins three sides closed, and the fourth open to the sea.
This apartment was about four feet by six, and the height of the
thatched roof, perhaps ten. On the back wall were stuck pieces of
red paper, marked with black Siamese letters; in each corner leaned
a wooden sword and the beak of a saw-fish. In the middle of the
floor, standing on a fold of tinsel paper, was a green porcelain bowl,
full of earth, planted with dead straws. On either side were some
pieces of coral, upon which reposed small boards inscribed with Sia
mese characters, and the figures of an elephant and a horse, such as
we usually see among German toys.
After nightfall we were visited by a Talapoin, or priest, who
seemed to be the head-man among the very few people on the island.
He entered the cabin in a half bent posture, in token of respect, but
very soon assumed an erect position. A robe of dirty yellow cloth

260 TALAFOIN  INHABITANTS OF SI-CHANG.
hung from his shoulders to the knees; his head and eyebrows were
closely shaven, and his arms and legs were bare. He seated himself,
and drew from his girdle a small tin box, from which he filled his
mouth with arecanut, betel leaf and chunam; and, thus fortified, he
talked, chewed and gesticulated; but his speech, though it might have
been very fine for aught we knew, was to us a rigmarole. In return
for it, we offered him bread, tobacco, snuff and gin; the last he car
ried to his people; but instead of putting the snuff in his nose, he
wrapped it in a piece of paper, and made us understand, if the quan
tity were increased, the present would be more acceptable. He ap
peared unwilling to touch a tumbler with his lips, and in place of it,
drank out of the top of his own tobacco-box. He carried with him
a sheet of slate paper, twenty feet long, by fifteen inches broad, fold
ed alternately right and left, so that its dimensions were about two
inches thick, four broad and fifteen long. After making him compre
hend, by the aid of a short vocabulary, arranged by Mr. Roberts on
his former visit, who We were, and writing with his pencil of talc
upon his book, the name of the ship, and whither we were bound, he
took leave, seemingly well satisfied with what he had done.
Early the following morning, we went in pursuit of white squirrels;
under the protection of the religious prejudices of the inhabitants
against taking away animal life, there is nothing to interrupt their in
crease, and wefound them in considerable numbers. Two or three men
of Mongol physiognomy attached themselves to our train, and were ever
ready to point out the game. With the exception of a sarong about
the hips, they were naked, and viewed our clothes and fowling-pieces
with apparent wonder and astonishment; and were not content until
they had felt of every article of our dress, even to our shoes. They
all chewed arecanut and its concomitants; their teeth were conse
quentiy black, and their mouths were any thing but agreeable to look
upon. It is probably owing to this disgusting habit, that the areca-
chewing nations of the East, have never acquired the custom of kiss
ing! On our return to the boat, we found the inhabitants of the village
eating breakfast, consisting of boiled rice and fish, of which they very
politely invited us to join, but our prejudices against filthy appear
ances compelled us to decline. They were squatted round a large
dish, from which they supplied their bowls, and then shovelled the
mouth full of rice with chop sticks. The village consists of a half
dozen huts of bamboo and boards, raised on posts a foot or two from
the ground. They were cheerless, and far from clean. The women.

SIAM ROADS. 261
in general, wore only a sarong: some few added a piece of black
crape folded diagonally over the chest, so as to partiallv conceal the
bosom, and young girls wandered about in nature's suit, as unsophis
ticated and shameless as Eve before her fall.
At three o'clock, P. M. the ship was sot under way, bnt very soon
ran upon a rock in the mid-channel, where she remained two hours,
until the rising of the tide carried her oft' witiiout damage. On sound
ing round, it was found tiiat the rock was not more than one hundred
feet in extent, beyond which tiiere was four and five fathoms water.
A few hours brought us to the Roads of Siam, where we anchored
alwut eisht o'clock, P. M. and exchanged signals with the Enter-
prise. The next day we looked for land, but without a spy-glass, could
see none. The anchorage for ships, drawing more than twelve feet
water, is ten miles from the mouth of the Meinam, which is deep
enough as far as the city; but there is a bar eight miles from its en
trance which interrupts large vessels, and may be a serious obstacle
to foreign trade.
We were obliged to wait, patientiv as we might, a reply to Mr.
Roberts' communication, to the authorities given above, before we
could proceed to Bankok. When it was carried from the Enter
prise to Paknam, two miles up the river, the old governor was un
willing to forward it to the P'hra Klang, until there had been a deal
of talk and interpretation.

262 PRINCE MOMFANOI.

CHAPTER XXIV.
SKETCHES IN SIAM.
Apnl, 1836.
On the 2Bth of March, the ship was visited by Prince Momfanoi,
heir apparent to the throne of Siam. The bMlhe came in_ was jiot
distinguishable from those of the common people; it had a semicylin-
dricalroof of wattled bamboo over the stern, under which he reposed,
sheltered from the sun, but suffering from the want of ventUation,
though both ends of the oven were open. Unaccustomed to go afloat,
he was threatened with sea sickness after being a short time on board,
and therefore, departed early for the shore.
/ The Prince was dressed in a jacket of pink damasked crape, closely
fitting the body, and reaching from the hips to the throat; a sarong of
dark silk, knotted in front, the ends hanging down nearly to the ground,
and over it was tied a light sash, upon which two jewelled rings of
large size were strung. This costume left the head, arms and legs
bare./ He has an active, determined look. His stature is not more
than five feet five inches; his limbs are stout and well proportioned.
His complexion is olive, almost as dark as that of the majority of ne
groes met with in the northern and middle sections of the United
States. His hair is coarse and black, and, excepting a tuft trimmed
and standing up like bristles on the top of the head, is cut very close.
The general character of his features is that of the Mongol race.
The form of the eye is paraboloid, the upper lid extending in a thin
fold over the lower one at the side of the nose, which is rather flat;
the lips are full, the chin retreating, and with the exception ofa few
hairs on the upper lip, he has no beard. The superior lateral parts
of the forehead are a little flattened, while the upper and middle part

VISIT TO PAKNAM. 263
is prominent; the supra-orbital region is full, and the eyes set well
apart. Such is the personal description, which I have so minutely
given, of the most promising individual among the Siamese
While on board, he displayed considerable knowledge and was
very inquisitive about nautical affairs. He made favourable mention
of the American missionaries, by whom he was taught English, which
he speaks very intelligibly. He was quite at home on board, and
when his attention was attracted to any particular part of the ship,
he stood with his arms a-kimbo and feet wide apart, with a swaggering
air, more characteristic of an old time admiral than a distinguished
prince of a royal court.
His several attendants, with the exception of the sarong, were naked ;
and one nam.ed Sap, was distinguished by his master often pointing
out to him what appeared worthy of notice. He bore a small gilt
salver with a goblet-shaped foot, on which were a gold watch, still in
the leathern pouch of the maker, a chunam box; a number of very
acute cone-shaped cigars of Siamese cut tobacco rolled in dry plan
tain leaf; a lighted raatch of cocoanut rope in a tube like a Peru
vian mechero, with rolls of cire leaf, &c. Anpther carried an ena
melled tea-pot and a small porcelain tea-cup. ^ Whenever the Prince
passed any of them in his walks about the decks, they at once squat
ted down; and whenever he took any thing from the salver, the bearer
dropped upon his knees. -
On the SOth of March, I determined to go to Bankok in spite of
all formalities, and with a friend set off". We got the bearings of the
mouth of the Meinam, and following the compass course, bounded
merrily over the sea till we entered the river. On the bar there are a
number of stakes driven into the bottom, and their ends above the
surface mark the channel or fishing grounds, or something else; the
stakes were covered with muscles, having clear, apple-green colored
shells. The land is low and thickly wooded to the water's edge.
On the muddy margin, exposed by the receding tide, we saw a number
of white herons and a crocodile, at least ten feet long.
When fairly within the river, a pretty view presents itself. On
the left, all is thickly green, on the right, is the village of Paknam
with its white fortress, and in the centre is a circular fort with nu
merous embrasures, over the top of which is seen the tapering spire
of a pagoda — a solid mass of masonry without interior apartraent.
At this point the river is about a mile wide.
We had determined, should we not be hailed, to proceed up the
river without stopping; and with his view, steered midway between

264 PAKNAM  governor's HOUSE.
the fort in the river and that at Paknam. We were not literally
hailed, but were gesticulated at, by an individual near the fort on the
main, with so much earnestness that it prevailed over our resolution,
and we landed. A path through thickly growing shrubs, ten yards
long, brought us to a substantial store-house with a veranda, beneath
which several naked Siamese were stretched on the ground, chew
ing betel, and watching a smouldering fire which had served to pre
pare their suppers, the evidence of which might be gathered frora
several earthen pans in the vicinity. Here we were met by one who
appeared to be a leader. He nodded his head, pointed towards the
village, which was not visible, and, leading the way, we followed. A
few yards brought us to a canal over which we passed on a bank of
stones, the vilest and roughest bridge I have any where seen. For
tunately we soon trod on a narrow trottoir, paved with large bricks,
leading between rows of bamboo huts, shaded by trees: some of them
were shops having projecting windows, in which were displayed fruit,
eggs, &c. We had scarcely got thus far before we were saluted by a
host of lank curs that barked more in fear than threatening. A few
yards brought us to the bazaar. The venders were all women. They
were seated among their wares on bamboo platforms about two
feet from the ground, shaded by the projecting roofs of the huts be
fore which the stalls were built. They wore only a dark blue cotton
cloth, so disposed about the limbs and hips as to resemble a pair of
drawers, and some wore, in addition, a piece of black crape over the
shoulders. Their hair was cut close, except a bristling tuft on top
of the head, and all were chewing areca nut, and betel or cire leaf.
Here, for the first time in the East, we saw cowries circulating as
money; but their value is so extremely small, (about 15,000 to the
dollar,) that bushels of them were seen in many of the stalls, yet
there are articles to be purchased for a single one, as arecanut, betel
leaf, &c. So minute a division of money must be very advantageous
to the poor, in a country where produce is plenty and labor very
low. We soon reached the dwelling of his Excellency the Governor.
His mansion, we found on following our guide through a door-way
into a considerable enclosure, stood on posts about seven feet from
the ground; the walls were of bamboo, pierced with irregular-shaped
octangular holes; windows they were not, having neither sash nor
shutter. The thatched roof projected at the eaves about five feet,
and was supported all round by stout posts, thus forming a sort of
veranda. The entrance was by a ladder of five or six steps, which

RECEPTION BY THE GOVEVNOU. 265
landed in a vestibule or open court, the left side being bounded by
the family apartments, and the right by a hall, thirty by fifteen feet,
the floor of which was elevated two feet above that of the court. The
ceiling of the hall was flat, dark-colored, twenty feet high, and next
to the court, where there was neither partition nor wall, supported by
tvvo wooden pillars. This apartment was furnished with chairs and
bamboo settees, of Chinese manufacture. In one corner stood a cu
riously carved temple of the Penates, resembling an old-fashioned
bed-stead, a use to which, as we afterwards discovered, it was occa
sionally put. Lamps hung from the ceiling, and many Chinese mirrors
with silvered frames were suspended close to the cornice; and in the
centre vi'as a chandelier, which consisted of a tarnished brass hoop
wrought in an odd style, having several tumblers of oil and water in
brass rings, suspended by chains from its margin, and a goblet sus
tained after the same fashion in the middle.
When we came into the presence. His Excellency was only girdled
with a scanty silk sarong, reclining on the hall floor, his back re
posing on a leathern pillow of prismatic shape, which touched the base
of one of the pillars above mentioned. He rested on the right elbow,
and with the hand of the same side, supported along wooden pipe, from
which he inhaled the fumes of opium. The right leg was extended,
parallel with the terminating edge of the floor, while the left one was
drawn up to enable him to scratch the toes with his unoccupied
hand. The floor of the vestibule was crowded by slaves or people of in
ferior rank — hence their inferior place — resting on their knees and
elbows, the body retreating a little, chewing betel as quietiy as cows
do the cud, and looking up into his Excellency's face, as they
listened to his conversation, the intonation of which in our ears was
maudlin and unpleasant.
All this was revealed to us at a glance. As we entered. His Ex
cellency rose, and taking- us by the hand with a hearty grasp, fairly
raised us upon the floor, where he had been just reclining, and motionetl
us to a seat. Cigars and tea, in very small cups without sugar, were
immediately served; and in a few moments afterwards an interpreter
arrived, whose office we might not have suspected, had he not con
trived to make us understand that such was his vocation. He
assumed the attitude of other inferiors present, and before speaking,
made a salam in the Siamese fashion, by opposing the palms and
carrying the hands to the forehead, and again letting them fall. His
name was Ramon, a Portuguese christian, whose skin was nearly as
34

266 THE CAPTAIN OF THE PORT AND HIS EXCELLENCY.
dark as that of the governor; his costume differed in nothing from
that of the Siamese who were present.
We informed His Excellency, we were on our way to Bankok, to
procure water and provisions for the ship, which we had in vain
endeavoured to obtain at Paknam. He replied, that we could not
go — that his authority did not extend so far as to enable him to give
us permission; and if we had gone up, his head would have been for
feited — that he would send for the water and provisions.
Such was the substance of our conversation. We next visited
Piadade, the Captain_of the port, who is also a Portuguese born in
Siam. We found him in a mean bomboo hut, chewing arecanut.
He told us, he had just arrived from the city with a letter for Mr.
Roberts. He affected much surprise when informed that we pro
posed to go to Bankok.
" Very sorry — but no can go!"
"Who will prevent us?"
" Nobody prevent you^suppose you go, I tell you certain, you
break friendship — you get me flog, and that poor old governor get
his head cut off. "
He offered to accompany us back to the governor's, and there dis
cuss the matter farther. On our return, a large brass salver, with a
goblet-shaped foot, was brought, loaded with boiled duck-eggs, fish,
sugar-cane and plantains. This was placed on a chair, and on an
other beside it, a brass basin of water with a small cup of the same
metal, fioating on its surface. Some of his visiters, from the Enter
prise, had presented His Excellency with a bottle of gin, which was
also produced on the occasion. We were invited to eat, but did not
taste any thing except a plantain.
We now urged the necessity of proceeding to the city, but were
answered as before. The Captain of the port sat upon the floor,
wearing the sarong and a piece of black crape over the shoulders.
He repeated what would be the consequences to the governor and
himself, if we persisted in going to Bankok. He was evidently anx
ious, and proposed to despatch a letter to Mr. R. Hunter, who, he
said, would send us whatever we might require. He urged, that the
king was now well disposed towards us, and our going to the city at
this time, would "break friendship." We remarked, that it was
any thing but friendly to keep us so long from the city, without
water or stock; for want of which, we must be in a short time suffer
ing. He replied, that different nations had different customs — " In
the presence of your king, that you call President, you stand up and

PADDY MILL. 267
pull off your hat; in the presence of the king of Siam, you sit down
and pull off your shoes, I am your friend. Mr. Roberts can tell
you. Your laws are different from those of Siam, all the same as
between heaven and — " looking significantly, and at the same time
pointing downwards. I thought the comparison was just, and I sus
pect might be extended to the inhabitants of the two places, without
any great departure from justice!
Finding that we still persisted in going to the city, he proposed
that the governor should write to the P'hra Klang for permission for
us to proceed. To this we at last acceded, telling him at the same
time, that we did so solely in consideration of the governor's head
and both of their skins. Both were evidently much relieved. Our
baggage was brought up from the boat and my companion wrote to
Mr. Hunter.
In the mean time, I looked around the premises. Twenty yards
from the house were several huts, occupied by some of the governor's
slaves. Several women were walking about, and one was " hulling
paddy" in a mill, similar to those used four thousand years ago. It
consisted of two circular stones, two feet in diameter, resting one
on the other; a bamboo basket was wrought around the upper one so
as to form the hopper. A peg was firmly set into the face of the
upper stone, half-way between its periphery and centre, having tied
to it by one end, a stick three feet long, extended horizontally and
attached by the other to another stick pending from the roof of the
shed under which the mill was placed. This forms a crank by
which the upper stone is made to revolve on the other, set firmly on
the ground. The motion throws the rice through the centre of the
stone, and causes it to escape between the edges of the two.
Beneath the governor's mansion were several canoes, one not less
than forty feet long, dug out of a single tree. Among the riches
of Siam, its quantities of fine timber cannot be reckoned the least.
Soon as it was dark all the lamps were lighted. His Excellency
still occupied his place, smoking pipe or cigars and chewing areca
nut, which was reduced to powder in an iron tube, because, having
lost all his teeth, he is unable to masticate it in any other form. His
mouth is very large, and when he gapes, which he does very fre
quently, one almost fancies that he is about to lose his head. He
passes his time in sipping tea, chewing and spitting in a porcelain
spittoon, kept constantly beside him. He inquired our respective
ages, and wondered that we were so young; telling us, at the same
time, he was sixty-four years old.

268 FEMALE COSTUME  SIAMESE TWINS.
Several of his female grand children came in, the eldest twelve
years of age; and in feminine existence, years are longer in the tor
rid than in the temperate zone. They were all in mother Eve's cos
tume after she ate the apple, except that their fig-leaf was of gold,
wrought in filligree, and sustained by a rich chain of the same metal,
worn about the hips. The eldest asked for a cigar, which she smoked
like one who is a veteran in the vice.. I afterwards saw much young
er children smoking, and I have good authority for stating that in
fants not yet weaned smoke tobacco.
We sat on the floor smoking and sipping tea for an hour or two with
Piadad^, whom we found to be a mild good-hearted old man. The
famous Siamese Twins were a theme of conversation. They have
been probably of as much service as any pair of patriots in their coun
try, first, by generally calling the attention of the christian world to
wards it, secondly, by affording Mr. Bulwer a subject for his pen,
and last, by causing some of the Siamese interested in them, to hear
of countries of the existence of which they were ignorant before the
brothers set out on their travels. " Where are the twins?" was asked
of every one who visited the shore. Piadade shook his head: " Their
poor mother cry plenty about those boys. They say, they make
plenty money — no send never any to their poor motiier." In fact,
they have in Siam the character of being dissipated and unfilial. Ne
vertheless, they still attract attention.
"  Our Twins were saved to flow

Thro' Time's far stream in rhyme and glory,
And inch by inch together grow,
[The heroes of an English story."
Strictly speaking, they are not Siamese, though born in Siam: their
parents, as I was told, are Chinese.
Straw mats were spread in the middle of the floor, and upon them
two mattresses, much patched with velvet. In the mean time the
governor had dictated a despatch which was written on a slate book
(formerly described) by a secretary squatting on the floor of the ves
tibule. This state affair concluded. His Excellency retired, and we
stretched ourselves out in the middle of the room, and half a dozen
slaves of the governor's household occupied the settees. We soon
found that sleep was out of the question. The lamps were all burn
ing; the servants were talking, and ever and anon walking across the
floor, which, being of slips of bamboo, sprang to their steps like a

UNCOMFORTABLE LODGINGS. 269
spring board, communicating no very pleasant motion to our beds.
The novelty of our circumstances, suspicious of the cleanliness of our
couches, the doubtful honesty of our room-mates were sufficient in
themselves to keep us awake; but added to these annoyances were
noises of various kinds. The numerous lank curs, we had seen steal
ing about in the afternoon, found a bone of contention, and sought to
settle their quarrel under the house. The angry growls of the vic
tors and the yelping of those put to flight had scarcely died away,
before a party of melancholy ge-kos assembled on the roof and set up
a lugubrious song in a stacatto movement. Then some poetic youth
of Paknam serenaded us for an hour, by the light of the stars, with
a screeching hautboy, occasionally relieved by the wooings and mew-
ings of a half dozen crack-voiced feline Romeos and Juliets, imme
diately beneath our beds. We bore it for a long time, but at last
were forced to laugh outright and get up in self-defence. We sat
down near a window, and, at the same time, enjoyed the pleasant air
and a cigar. It was long past midnight, yet two or three women were
seen at different times, stealing across the enclosure with torches in
their hands, and one came out of his Excellency's room and retired
with noiseless step. Fairly wearied, we tried " once more to win her
into morning;" but we scarcely attained to dreamy forgetfulness be
fore a great ge-ko pursued several lizards in full run over the floor.
The attempt was vain. Rather than risk passing such another night,
at four o'clock, A. M., 1 took leave of my companion, and returned
with the officer of the boat on board ship, convinced that Paknam is
the vilest, the dirtiest, the most inhospitable and detestable spot I
have ever set foot in.
That afternoon permission was received, and my companion as
cended to the city in a canoe; and the day after his arrival, the king,
according to the usage of the Siamese, sent him a present of eight ti-
ca,ls to defray the expense of his table.
I reached the ship about one o'clock, P. M., after a tedious beat
under a burning sun, and the next day, Piadade, who set off before
us, came alongside with some articles which had been sent for, seve
ral days previously.
Yet on farther reflection, I think I did the governor injustice; for
he treated us as he treated himself, and imagined when he gave us
tea, cigars, food, and a bed, that it was our own fault if we were not
comfortable and contented. But I doubt whether he was philosopher
enough to discover that a total want of accordance of habit and sym
pathy of feeling rendered his simple efforts to please unavailing.

276

SIAMESE ETiqUETTE.

CHAPTER XXV.
SKETCHES IN SIAM.
.April, 1836.
We waited for the boats to carry the mission to the city, until the
5th of April, not in the most patient mood; for we were almost re
duced to salt dinners, and had a near prospect of a short allowance
of water, under sultry skies. Seeing an American brig, which we
had passed in the strait of Banka, arrive four or five days after us,
(having spent two weeks at Singapore in the mean time,) and obtain
permission to proceed at once to the city, was not calculated to sooth
our impatience, nor change the unfavourable opinion we had already
formed of Siamese etiquette. Piadade insisted that it would ill assort
with our dignity, and the friendship existing between the two na
tions, for us, whom he styled "king's men in king's ship," to go to
Bankok in a hurry, before measures had been taken to receive us
properly. The longer the delay the more should we feel compli
mented, because, we might be sure, the time was consumed in pre
paring for our reception. However unanswerable and honey -like
this argument might be to full fed, ambitious christians, most of us
were ready to sell out his right to Siamese consideration for a roasted
capon or a speedy departure for Bankok.
In these waiting days we had no other diversion than to watch the
mouth of the Meinam, and speculate on the destination of all boats
which appeared from that quarter. Occasionally a clumsy Chinese
junk was seen to come out or enter the river, with all the deliberate
speed their mould and the elements would permit.
At last the junk, or boat of ceremony, bearing a present of fruit
and some hundreds of gallons of water, hove in sight. This vessel
had three masts, and ten staves with red banners waving over the
stern. The bows and stern were square, and there were two brass

JUNK OF CEREMONY  DECLENSION OF THE PORTUGUESE. 271
pieces mounted at each, from which, before getting alongside, a sa
lute of thirteen guns was fired in honor of the envoy. In the middle
of the vessel was a platform, raised several inches above the deck,
furnished with chairs, and protected from the sun by a canvass awn
ing. The rigging was of cordage, made entirely of rattan, and as
pliant as any rope I have seen. The shrouds had no rattlings. From
not wearing shoes habitually, the Arabs, the Hindoos, Singhalese, Ma
lays, Siamese, and other Asiatics, have the great toe separated far
ther from that next to it than seems natural to us boot-and-shoe-
wearing people. The great toe serves them in prehension almost as
well as the thumb; and, for this reason, their sailors are able to
mount aloft with as much rapidity and ease without as ours do with
rattiings. I first observed this at Muscat, in one of the Sultan's
ships of war.
The approach of this piece of nautical architecture was showy.
Her crew, consisting of two-and-thirty soldiers and as many sailors,
the latter blazing in scarlet uniforms and the former in green. The
sailors looked more like mutes at a theatre than sons of river or
ocean. Their jackets, which had bell-muzzle sleeves reaching to
the elbow, were turned up with white, and buttoned from the hips
to the throat, and their breeches were embroidered at the knee.
Their caps of green cloth were fashioned like helmets, and trimmed
with gilt stripes; a band of red cloth, the top edge cut in points, sur
rounded the head. The legs and feet were bare. The officers in
comraand of tiiis gaudy crew were not less oddly equipped. We
were impressed with the notion that old Albuquerque and his fol
lowers had risen from their graves, and were now stalking upon
earth as they were wont to do some three hundred years ago, and we
could not help remarking that there had been a great change of co
lor, and seemingly, if not really, a wonderful declension in courage.
These worthy gentlemen could boast a Portuguese ancestry, and
claim nativity in Siam. As other descendants of the Portuguese in
every part of India, while their bones have changed little in form, the
color of the skin has become so like that of the natives of the coun
tries in which they are found, that they are not readily distinguished.
Their stature is much diminished, but these changes are not altoge
ther attributable to climate. It is remarkable that these Lusitan-
Asiatics are so degraded, they are employed almost entirely as me
nials, or in very subordinate situations. We would not have ex
pected, a priori, that the descendants of the conquerors would have

272 PORTUGUESE OFFICERS  SET OFF FOR BANKOK.
so fallen; their blood has lost its richness, and they only preserve the
bony configuration and religion of their fathers.
The chief of the three officers, toothless and sixty, appeared over
the gangway, ' the observed of all observers,' under a green three-
cornered cocked hat, a black satin coat, charge with gold embroidery
and white pearl buttons, full pantaloons of red striped silk, sustained
by a sash round the waist, but without shirt, vest,, or shoes. The se
cond wore a round hat of white felt, a light blue velvet coat, embroi
dered in gold, red silk pantaloons, shoes, stockings, and shirt. The
third was in similar attire, except that he had a white satin vest, and,
though he could show no shirt, his neck was buried in a black stock
of large dimensions. On reaching the quarter-deck, they bowed awk
wardly, and spoke almost unintelligibly in a language intended to
be Portuguese. Where did they get all this costume? It was sug
gested they bought it from the Bowery theatre after they had ceased
to represent the spectacle of the " Last Days of Pompeii."
These people were full of curiosity, and begged what they could.
One of the soldiers addressed me in very intelligible Latin — " Inquis
Latinum, Domine?" I learned from him that the whole corps on
board the king's junk were christians, and had been educated by the
Portuguese missionaries. He said all of them might have spoken
Latin, had they been studious — their ignorance, as is generally the
case, was their own fault, and I suspect it is not their only one. All
the hundred jaws were employed masticating arecanut, betel, and to
bacco. The sun had set when we all embarked, or rather transhipped our
selves and baggage to the junk of ceremony. Her sails were hoisted
slowly, and we were, at last, creeping towards the shore. The sa
lute fired by the junk was now returned by the ship, and we went
off full of spirits and agreeable excitement. We numbered twenty
officers, several servants, and the band, and found ourselves packed
pretty closely together. We had scarcely got off from the ship when
our officers of Albuquerque memory doffed their finery and appeared
in white jackets. The night was dark. A paper lantern was sus
pended among us, and two or three torches dappled the company
with their flickering light, imparting to the picture something of the
imaginary, or romantic. The wind being against us, it was nine
o'clock when we got near Paknam, and then we encountered the
ebb tide. The junk was brought to anchor, and though it rained,
the officer in command opposed our landing, insisting that it would

FEAST AT PAKNAM. 273
be contrary to etiquette, and would, besides, endanger him to expe
rience the application of the bamboo. Nevertheless, the commodore
set his objections at defiance, and, taking two of us in his gig, pulled
on shore. We had scarcely crossed the rough bank of stones, lighted
by several torches, before the rain fell in torrents, and we sought
shelter until it abated.
We found his Excellency prepared to receive us. A loose robe
enveloped his whole person, bearing no slight resemblance to the
costume represented in biblical pictures, and his apartment was fur
bished and dusted into a more respectable appearance than it had
worn on our last visit. He received us cordially, and regretted that
the whole party was not with us. In about a half hour the others
arrived, in company with Mr. Roberts. In the mean time the go
vernor had changed his dress to a heavy purple silk sarong, and a
Hirty orange-colored cashmere shawl; and his badges of office were
placed on a table, consisting of a small salver, cups for holding are
canut, tobacco, &c., a small box containing a paste for cleansing the
mouth, a sort of quiver for cigars, a bowl -shaped spittoon, all of fine
gold, and a silver tea-kettle, beautifully enamelled, together with a
gold-hilted sword, in a red velvet scabbard. He gave Mr. Roberts
a hearty welcome, and then sat himself in the old-fashioned temple
before mentioned, and began smoking his long pipe; mean while a
long table was spread for supper, or, as they said, for a feast. It
proved to be mean in the extreme. The cloth was of coarse muslin,
the plates were of different sorts and sizes, and the glass of the com
monest kind. The knives, forks, and spoons were all of iron, and
few in number for our party. The materials of the feast were boiled
chickens, rice, duck-eggs, and roasted pork, all cold. On sitting
down to eat of this sumptuous fare, (of which Siamese etiquette re
quires all distinguished strangers to partake, before visiting the capi
tal,) we found the table almost as high as the chin, and it required a
keen appetite to sustain our wish to comply with the custom. Some
were compelled to cut their meat with spoons, and others with their
pocket knives. We had scarcely taken our places, before the hall
was crowded with naked Siamese, to gratify their curiosity with a
sight of us. We compared our situation to that of beasts in a mena
gerie, and one suggested that " His Excellency ought to charge raore
when the animals were fed."
Immediately after the feast was cleared away, the governor de
manded a list of the presents intended for his Magnificent Majesty,
but it was refused. The names of all the officers in the party were

274 VOYAGE UP THE MEINAM.
then recorded on a slate-book by a secretary, to be forwarded to the
city by an avant courrier.
The Commodore and Mr. Roberts, by way of distinction, were
lodged in the temples of the Penates, and the rest of us sought ac
commodation on the settees and on the floor, as we best could. The
night passed more quietly than on my former visit, though the sere
nade of dogs, cats, and ge-kos was not wanting.
We arose at early dawn the following day, and, as there were nei
ther towels nor napkins provided, the morning ablutions were finished
by a general application to the table cloth. A breakfast, composed
chiefly of the remains of the last night's feast, was quickly de
spatched, and we marched to the place of embarkation. I observed,
when passing through the bazaar, that the sailors and soldiers of the
boats of ceremony unhesitatingly helped themselves to fruit and ci
gars, without offering remuneration or meeting with resistance. On
reaching the river bank, we found a native band playing, and a
crowd of people assembled to see us embark. Three long, narrow
canoes, each pulling forty oars, and decorated with red banners, tufts
of white hair, and peacocks' feathers, conveyed us to the junk of
ceremony, which we thought to be very much raore cbrafortable than
even the governor's residence itself. After we were on board, the
canoes were arranged ahead, in a line abreast, and, as it was per
fectly calm, began-towing us up the river. The oarsmen, all in red
uniforms, stand behind their oars, and perform by pushing, and keep
stroke, stamping the right foot in time and in unison with a leader
who stood in the bows, striking together two pieces of hard wood.
The rowers were all slaves; they occasionally encouraged each other
by a sort of chant, or song. Thus led, the procession moved up the
river, the banks of which are low and green, cheered from time to
time with the efforts of our own band. Presentiy, the breeze rufiled
the glassy surface of the stream, and, with fluttering pennons and
gay costume, the whole formed a picturesque view every way wor
thy a pencil.
Along the whole course of the Meinam, on both sides, at short in
tervals, are built, on posts, the huts of fishermen, almost concealed
in the luxuriant shrubbery. Near them, were suspended in the
branches, paper cages and quaint figures, to keep off ghosts and evil
spirits. Toy wind-mills were rattling away in the gentle breeze,
placed on a tall bamboo before every door. We saw very few birds.
The course of the Meinam, literally the Mother of Waters, is very
serpentine; it has an average depth of four or five fathoms, and is free

ARRIVAL AT BANKOK. 275
from shoals. Its breadth is not half a mile. The tide, which rises
and falls, pediaps seven feet, is not regular, ebbing and flooding but
once in the twenty-four hours.
Towards midday, our Albuquerque friends found their European
finery too oppressive, and, as a sort of commentary on the title of
" boat of ceremony," stripped to the skin before our eyes, and sub
stituted for all their gaudy attire a simple sarong. Half way up the
river, we passed Paklat or ' Cidade Nova,' where there is a large for
tress, on both sides of the river, which being brilliantiy white, con
trasts finely with the green shrubbery. Here boats came oft" loaded
with fruits, as a present, for which our band paid in one of its best
airs. About nine o'clock, P. M., we fancied we were at our journey's
end. The day had been tedious and sultry, and vve were glad to
escape from our narrow accommodations. But we discovered to our
great annoyance, that the anchor had been let go through the timidi
ty and stupidity of our commander-in-chief. He urged that it was
dark, the tide against us, many junks in the river, and we had better
remain on board all night than run any risks; besides, if an accident
should occur. His Magnificent Majesty would first apply the bamboo
and then cut off his head. Finding ourselves only a mile from the
anchorage, we scolded and threatened and delivered some pretty
round Portuguese anathemata, which moved the worthy's compassion,
who felt somewhat relieved of his responsibility by the arrival of Pia
dade, and got the anchor up again. The distance was soon passed,
and after sundry Siamese, Portuguese, and English objurgations, we
were transported bag and baggage to the shore. / We were received
on a slip by another Albuquerque kind of cavalier,, in an embroi
dered cocked hat and coat, (who afterwards proved to be a General,)
and his son, a child often years old, in red, trimmed with gold lace.
Numerous torches were blazing along the street, which led to the
quarters, provided for us, at the cost of the king, and where we were
pleased to enter. The dwelling of the mission, was a pretty exten
sive store-house or go-down of two shallow stories. The second one,
which we occupied, was divided into four rooms, and opened upon a
broad veranda, accessible from a narrow enclosure in front, by a rude
ladder or wooden steps.
Piadade had kindly anticipated our wants, and supper was ready
to bring upon the table. Bedsteads and beds, furnished with a half
dozen different sized and shaped pillows, were provided in ample
numbers. They were all new, and sheltered by musquito curtains,

276 MISSION-HOUSE AT BANKOK.
for which there was luckily no necessity, and some of them were or
namented by deep borders of satin, embroidered in flos silk. One of
the bed rooms served as a dining hall, and the veranda as a drawing
room. Being shut in on all sides, it was almost insufferably hot, the
thermometer ranging at about 92° F., and it was without ventilation.
Yet it was the best that could be provided at the time. We were
convinced of the good intentions of our host, though not precisely
satisfied with their execution; the first were good, the last we attri
buted to ignorance.
Midnight closed our toils, and we sought to forget in repose all the
petty grievances that had tended not a littie to ruffle our equanimity.
Our beds were comfortable, and our sleep undisturbed. '
One circumstance would have been sufficient to destroy repose in
people of delicate nerves. The walls were populous at night with
varieties of lizards, and serpents were not infrequently seen " draw
ing their slow length behind," among the tiles and rafters, composing
the roof of our abode. Snakes of hideous size and color, were almost
always to be seen, in the heat of the day, winking their lustrous eyes
on the sunny side of the trees in the vicinity. Among them was a
small species of asp, supposed to be the sarae as that used by Cleo
patra for self-destruction.

CITY OF BANKOK.

CHAPTER XXVI.

SKETCHES IN SIAM.

.april, 1836.
The sun had set some time before we had attained even the out
skirts of the capital, and the night was so dark that we could form no
idea either of its appearance or extent. As we advanced along the
last two miles of our voyage, nothing presented itself to our view,
except the dark forms of vessels at anchor, and a few scattering lights
along shore, and we had become so weary and selfish, that our whole
attention was taken up with escaping from the boat of ceremony.
But we were certain that the^^api tal of the Magnificent King of
Siam, did not- impress us, when seen at night, with an idea of its
grandeur/ The next day we awoke, strangers in a strange place; certainly
the strangest I have ever visited, and sallied forth at an early hour
to gratify our curiosity, in relation to a country of which we had
heard much. We found the whole entirely new to us. We saw
nothing which is in common with Christian lands. Like Venice, the
city seemed to have risen from the waters/ Half the population is
afloat. In Bankok every thing is peculiar, and though every mo
ment was employed, I feel sure, we saw a very small part of the
city, in the time we remained.
Bankok is built upon the river Meinam, at a point where it is
about half a mile wide, and perhaps twenty miles in a direct line
from the sea. It extends about two miles and a half up and down
the river, and from a mile to a mile and a half on each side of
it. Bankok proper is on the right or western bank, while that on
the left, frora the palace being there, is named Sia-Yut'hia, but to
the eye it is all one town. It is irregular in its plan and every
where intersected by canals. The streets are narrow and dirty.
/The pavedwalk in the middle is scarcely wide enough for two per- i
sons to walk abreast, the reason for which, according to the Siam- !
ese, is that there are no two of the same rank in the kingdom, j
and etiquette does not permit individuals of different degrees to walk!

278 SAMPAK3.

side by side!/Many of the houses are extensive, but the great 'mass
of them are miserable bamboo huts, without any appearance of com
fort. /Trees are every where numerous, and the frequent ' Wats '
or Boudhist temples, their gilt and glazed tile roofs and spires,
sparkling in the sun, give to the city a picturesque appearance, and an
air of wealth and magnificence.
Each side of the river is lined with houses, every one a shop,
built on rafts of bamboo, moored or staked to the banks. The
fronts are open like verandas, wherein various goods are exposed for
sale. A row of Chinese junks, from two to six hundred tons each,
extend for more than two miles, at anchor in the middle of the
stream, where they often remain for months, retailing their cargoes;
and though streets, canals, and river are crowded with people and
boats, there is neither the bustle nor buz of the multitude, which
would be found in an equally dense population in any christian
city. From daylight until dark the river presents an animated
scene. The gondolas of this eastern Venice, called sampans, are of
every variety of size, frora the mere nut shell, to that moved by a
half dozen paddles; and, there are those of large dimensions, per
manently occupied by whole families, along the banks of the canals.
The better sort of sampan is a light canoe, moved by a half dozen
or more short paddles, with a covered cabin in the centre, upon the
floor of which the passenger reclines, and by drawing the curtains
may be entirely concealed. There are those so small, that we are
astonished that they are capable of floating under the weight of a
man, and others again, which are propelled, like the Venitian gon
dola, by a single oar, managed in a row-lock, three feet high. The
sampan of this description is usually skulled by a woman standing
on the stern, without any other garment than a pair of drawers,
with the occasional addition of a piece of black crape cast over the
shoulders. The body is gently bent forward over the oar, and, to
obtain a sure basis, one foot is placed in advance of the other, while
the arms, in easy motion, impart speed to the vessel. The attitude
and moveraent of these figures are erainently graceful, as they are
seen threading their way through the mazes of junks and sampans of
all sizes, which are all day gliding along, from point to point, in
every direction, and always occupying a very small space. The
sampans are admirably adapted to the navigation of the canals and
river, as we soon discovered, when one of our long-oared boats
moved among them. They were often upset by us; but the Siamese
always took the mishap in gentleness of spirit, and very quietly
swam either to the shore, or to regain the sampan. Living so con-

AMPHIBIOUS CHILD  POPULATION. 279
stantiy on the water, they may be said to be a swimming people,
though I am told they have great dread of the sea. They are seen
bathing at all times of the day, either swimming, or squatted on the
veranda, in front of the houses, dipping water out of the river with a
basin and pouring it over themselves. Not long ago, Bankok pre
sented the singular phenomenon of an amphibious infant, that forsook
tiie mother's breast, and betook itself to the water on all occasions.
Luck-loi-nam, literally the child of the waters, swam when she
was but one year old, and in 1832, when she had attained three
years of age, was frequently seen swimming in the river. Her mo
tions were not like those of other swimmers; she floated without any
apparent exertion, turning round and round. When not in the
water, she was cross and discontented, and when taken out cried and
strove to return; if indulged, she tumbled and rolled about, seem
ingly with unalloyed pleasure. Luck-loi-nam, though well formed,
could neither walk nor speak, but uttered a gurgling, choking sound
in the throat. Her vision was imperfect, and up to the time men
tioned, she had never eaten any thing but her mother's milk. She
usually applied to the breast, on being taken out of the river by her
own consent. The mother of the child of the waters was a fine-look
ing woman, and had given birth to four children; two males and two
females. The two brothers are dead, and the sister, eight or nine
years of age, was always seen swimming in company, to protect the
child of the waters against accidents, and give her direction that she
might not get too near the boats, or the banks of the river. She has
not been lately seen, and is supposed to be dead.
The population of Bankok, according to the government census
of 1828, amounted to 401,300, and is made up, as follows;
Chinese, - -. - . . 310,000
Descendants of Chinese, - - 50,000
Cochin Chinese, - - - 1,000
Cambodians, - - - 2,500
Siamese, - - - - 8,000
Peguans,  5,000
Laos people, (old residents,) 9,000
Do (new residents,) - 7,000
Burmans or Bramas, ... 2,000
Tavoy people, . - - . 3,000
Malays,  3,000
Christians,  800
Total, 401,300

280 CHINESE RESIDENTS  COMMERCE.
A tax of iibout three dollars is levied upon every China-man on
entering the country, and is afterwards exacted triennially, which
secures to him the privilege of following any trade or craft, accord
ing to his pleasure, and also exempts him from the half yearly servi
tude, required by the king from every other oriental stranger resi
dent in Siam.* In 1836, the Chinese population had increased to
four hundred thousand, so that we may safely state, that the city of
Bankok contains a half a million of inhabitants.
The Chinese residents, are chiefly from Teo-Chew, a subdivision
of the Canton province; but numbers from Hainan, Canton and Se-
ang-Hae, annually visit the place, and, from the manner of conduct
ing their commercial voyages, remara there frora February, until May
or June. The number of junks in the river, during that season, is
from thirty to seventy, each carrying from twenty, to one hundred
and thirty men.
Most of the mechanics, agriculturists and tradesmen of Bankok, are
China-men. They are cheerful and industrious, but, for want of
other modes of diverting their leisure hours, they are addicted to gam
bling and libertinism. The tax on Chinese and other gambling houses
in the capital, brings a considerable revenue to the government.
The commerce of Siam with other countries than China is very
limited, though her internal resources for foreign trade appear to be
every way ample. Within a few years it has increased with Singa
pore, which serves as an entrepot between it and Europe, as well as
the United States, to a considerable extent. In 1826, a treaty was
concluded between the English and His Magnificent Majesty, and a
ratified treaty with our government has just been exchanged. The
advantages of this treaty, though not immediately apparent, may be
in future very great. At one time, no less than 2,200 tons of Ame
rican shipping were employed in the Siamese trade; but owing to the
numerous and irregular exactions made in form of duties, presents,
&c., to the delays incident to the slow mode of conducting business,
being obliged almost always f o make up the cargo by small purchases
from different individuals, and to the rapid advance in the price of
sugar when in demand, it dwindled away to nothing, and the com
mercial world in the United states, almost lost sight of Siam. The
Sachera, Captain Coffin, who introduced the Siamese Twins to the
world, and the Maria Theresa, Captain O. Taylor, (now at Bankok,)
are the only American vessels which have entered the Meinam, since
? Toumlin's Nine Months' Residence in Siam, in 1828-9.

COMMERCE IN UANKOK. 2gl
1828, a period of eight years; and probably the last named vessel
would not have ventured, had the commander been ignorant of the vi
sit of the Peacock and its object. As will be seen in the sequel, the
chief obstacles in the way of a profitable trade with Siam, irregular
and exorbitant charges, have been removed by the provisions of the
treaty, and under its protection, the commerce may revive in a short
time, and then the merchants of Bankok may perceive their inte
rests in facilitating the business of those who come to buy or sell.
Siam is too distant for us to send there, only, to purchase her pro
ducts, the most of which may be now obtained at Singapore for a
small advance, and sugar, the staple article, can be obtained much
nearer home; but she requires our manufactures to supply her nume
rous though wretched population, and on the system of exchange only,
can we hope any solid advantage from commerce, with so remote a
country. Nations, as well as individuals, are often deeply affected by the in
fluence of example, though they may be too proud to acknowledge it,
and are brought to the admission of principles and of the actions result
ing from them, which, without this influence, they would have long
resisted. It is true, the prejudices of the Asiatics generally, against
all Christians, are so peculiar and so strong, that example may not
have so extended an effect with them, as among people of other na
tions; nevertheless, it cannot fail to exercise a powerful influence.
The intercourse between Siam and Cochin China, has been, until the
present war, very frequent; it is also common between these two coun
tries and China, and occasional even with Japan. Should the Sia
mese derive a profitable trade under the provisions of the treaty, it
will be perceived by their neighbors, and, among commercial nations
whose acquisitive faculties are large and active, to perceive a source
of emolument, is but a step short of desiring it for themselves.
The conclusion to be drawn, if these premises be correct, is, that
this treaty will be the remote means of opening a wide field to Ame
rican enterprise, and of new markets for our growing manufactures,
and the increasing products of our extensive soil.
The chief merchants of Siam are the king, his ministers, the Chi
nese, and old women. They require, from Europe and the United
States, arms and ammunition; perhaps a few military ornaments,
coarse cutlery, glass ware, white cotton goods, which should not be
less than two cubits in width; cotton twist, frora No. 20 to SO; Si
amese dresses, three yards long by forty inches broad, in star pat
terns, on red, green, and blue grounds, which colors should be bright;
36

282 REVENUE OF SIAM.
long ells, red and green; furniture chintz; ladies' cloth, red, yellow,
green, light purple, and light blue; steel, in small bars, the size of
nail iron, which, for this market, should be put up in tubs, one hun
dred of which are enough at a time, instead of cases. American cot
tons are now sought for, though afforded at a higher price, because
they have proved themselves to be much more durable. There is an
opening for the introduction of American cottons, through Bankok,
to the countries lying north of Siara.*
For the above articles they offer, in exchange, sugars, tin, ivory,
sappan wood, (Ccesalpina sappan,) rose wood, rattans, a variety of
drugs, iron of a superior quality, &c. Sugar, the staple article, is at
an average price of eight tic&ls per picul of ISS^lbs., may be put on
board for about five dollars per hundred : whether it will yield profit
at this price, after paying freight, home duties, interest, insurance, &c.,
I am not merchant enough to decide.
Though the duties stipulated for in the treaty may appear high, at
first sight, $4,275 on a vessel measuring 25 feet beam, they will be
found not to exceed ten or twelve per cent, on a valuable cargo.
An estimate of the Siamese revenue and resources of trade may
be formed from the following tables, made for one year.
Table exhibiting the Internal Revenue, &c., of Siam, for
ONE Year, in Bats or Ticals.
Bats, or Ticals.
'Bankok, 104,900
Sia-Yut'hia, 16,000
Bang-xang, 8,000
Suri-buri, 4,000
Krungtap'han, 4,000
fBankok, 39,000
j Sia-Yut'hia, 12,000
Bazaars. S o • u • ^ „
I Sun-bun, 1,600
LBang-xang, 1,600
Duty on floating houses, 36,000
" on Chinese gambling-houses, 64,000
" on Siamese " 58,000

Tavern
Licenses.

Carried over, 349,100
• For this commercial information I am indebted to Mr. R. Hunter, a commis
sion merchant of several yeai-s' residence at Bankok, who kindly placed his ma
nuscript diaiy in my hands, with permission to extract whatever I might think
interesting.

REVENUE of SIAM.

283

Bats, 01' Ticals.
349,100 32,000 24,000
12,000 4,800 8,000

Brought forward.
Revenue from provinces under first minister,
" " " second minister,
" " " third minister,
" judiclaiy courts of Kromamuang,
" " " of tribunal,
" gold province of Bangtap'lian, 180 ticAls' weight
of gold, equal to 1,880
" gold province of Pipri, 60 ticSls' weight of gold,
equal to 960
" tribute paid by Malays for working gold mines,
216 ticSls' weight of gold,* 3,456
Total, 436,196
Table of Commercial Revenue.

Articles.

auantities.

Ticals.

On Paddy,

1,696,423 koyans

862,358

Gardens,

545,880

Trees,

17,800

Teak wood.

127,000 trees.

56,000

Sappan wood, (3 qualities,)

200,000 piculs.

84,000

Cocoanut oil.

600,000 "

56,000

Sugars, (5 qualides,)

96,000 "

40,000

Jacra,

150,000 jars.

8,000

Salt,

8,000 koyans.

32,000

Pepper,

38,000 piculs.

23,000

Cardammums,

550 "

5,400

Bastard do..

4,000 "

16,000

Stick lac,

8,000 "

9,500

Tin,

1,200 "

18,200

Iron,

20,000 "

54,000

Ivory,

300 "

2,500

Gamboge, (3 qualities,)

200 "

1,200

Rhinoceros' horns.

1,600

Deers' do.

26,000 pairs,

3,600

Cows' do.

200 piculs,-

Buffaloes' do.
200 "
Deers' sinews.
200 "
800
Rhinoceros' hides,
200 "
Tigers' bones.
50 to 60 "
Buffaloes' hides, in number
500
Cows' do. do.
100,000
1,600
Carried over, 1,839,438
* Gold is estimated at sixteen times the value of silver.
284

TAXES.

Articles.

auantities.

Ticals.

Brought forward.
1,839,438
Gum Benjamin,
100 piculs.
400
Birds' nests, (3 qualities,) 10 to 12
32,000
Dried fish, (3 kinds,)
79,000
;i ^
18,000
Dried shrimps.
1,000
Balachao,
1,500
4,600
Azelu de pao.
15,000
8,000
Breu,
10,000
6,000
Rosewood,
200,000
1,600
Damar,
200,000 bundles.
5,600
Rattans,
200,000
ec
5,600
Casca de pau.
200,000
n
1,600
Wooden posts, (3 kinds,) 203,500 i
n nuraber.
8,000
Bamboos,
600,000,000
it
8,000
OUas, or Chak leaves, 95,000,000,000
(C
8,000
Firewood,
Total,
14,000
1,960,838
These tables are derived from the Portuguese residents; and, though
not complete, nor perfectly accurate, proximative estimates may be
formed from them.
The annual tax on cultivated paddy, or rice fields, is levied at the
rate of three fu-angs per square rai, of 130 feet square. Being the
custom of the country, to plant the cane once every three years, su
gar plantations pay one tical for the first, and for the two following
years, two sa-lungs per square rai. The reason assigned for the dif
ference is, that the first year's growth is most valuable. A tax of
one sa-lung per picul, is also levied on the sugar before it is brought
to market.
The taxes are separately farmed by the government. The customs
on wood, ollas or chak leaves, ilsed for thatching, are one-fifth in quan
tity. Gardens are taxed per square rai, varying somewhat in pro
portion to their productions. Orchards pay according to their nura
ber of trees and the value of their fruits; on cocoanut and betel trees,
&c. the tax is one fu-ang for twenty trees; on mango and other valua
ble trees, it is from one fu-ang to half a tical per tree.
The taxes on taverns, or more strictiy speaking, tippling shops, and
on gambling establishments, are farmed to licensed individuals^ with
out whose permission, no one can sell spirituous liquors or open a
gambling house without incurring a heavy penalty. Individuals are
gambling — LOTTERY  CURRENCY  COWRIES. 285
not permitted to play in private, not even beneath their own roof
tree, but, to gratify this passion, must repair to some one of the many
licensed establishments, except at certain periods, when the law is
suspended. A general permission to gamble, is granted three times
a year; three days at the commencement of the Chinese new year;
three days at the commencement of the Siamese new year, and three
days at another season. During these periods, all classes may be
seen, assiduously waiting upon dame fortune's smiles or frowns, read
in the turning of cards or throwing of the dice. In these privileged
times, wealth often changes hands; beggars become rich, and the af-
fiuent are sunk to penury. In these times too, taste for play, under
the influence of an almost universal example, becomes irresistible, and
when the law again becomes operative, those who have been unlucky,
resort to licensed tables to repair their shattered fortunes, and those
who have been fortunate, to increase their gains. The honorable and
productive avocations of society, are forsaken or much neglected;
wealth is squandered; intemperance and frequent quarrels ensue, and,
often under the weight of overwhelming despair, the gambler, as in
other countries, ends his not yet mature existence by some suicidal
act, plunging him at once into an eternity, which, from its uncertain
nature should be to him appalling.
A species of lottery has been introduced by the Chinese, which has
attracted much attention, and is much in accordance with the tastes
of the people. An indefinite number of tickets are sold, upon which
is written the name of some one of thirty-six titled cards, which the
purchaser may designate. Once a week one card is turned up, and
those whose ticket bears the title, win and receive thirty for one, the
purchaser being at liberty to pay any sum he pleases for the ticket.
The circulating medium of Siam, consists of silver and cowries
exclusively; gold is occasionally coined, or rather stamped, but is
held entirely as a curiosity, and cannot be considered as a part of the
money system. The cowry shell {Cyprea moneta,) circulates in many
countries of Asia, but in former times to a much greater extent than
at present. They were carried to various parts of the East in great
quantities, from the Maldive islands, where they were fished twice,
monthly; three days before and three after the new moon. Women
alone were employed in the fishery. They waded into the sea, waist
deep, and dug thera from the sand; tbey were then made up into
packages, each containing 12,000 shells, and thus shipped off to Cey
lon, the Ganges, Siam, &c.; but in the Maldive islands, they were
not current money. ^

286 MEASURES AND WEIGHTS.
The silver pieces, in the form of short bars, doubled on themselves
and impressed with a small stamp, closely resemble buck-shot and
bullets. They are ticals or bats, sa-lungs and fu-angs; all the rest
of money divisions named in the following table, except the cowries,
whose value is fluctuating, are iraaginary. The tical or bat is the
money-unit, and, according to the Calcutta assay, weighs 236 grains,
and is valued at two shillings and sixpence sterling, or about sixty-
one cents.
In April, 1836, dollars were at the rate of 150 ticEils for the hun
dred dollars.
Siamese Money Table.
200 Cowries, equal to 1 P'hai-niing.

2 P'hai-nungs,
^ Song-p'hais,
2 Fu-angs,
4 Sa-lungs,
4 TicSls,
20 Tumlungs,
100 Caties,

1 Song-p'hai.
1 Fu-ang.
1 Sa-lung.
1 Tic&l, or bat.
1 Tiimlung.
1 Catie.
1 Picul, or 133§lb3.

The above are also used as measures of weight, whether apothe
cary, troy, or avoirdupois.
Siamese Long Measure.
12 Fingers' breadth, 1 Span.
2 Spans, 1 Cubit, = 19J English inches.
4 Cubits, 1 Fathom, = 6^ English feet.
20 Fathoms, 1 Sen, == 130 feet.
400 Sens, 1 yote, = 3 leagues, 271 yards, 8J feet.
The only land or square measure is the rai, of 130 English feet.
Siamese Dry Measure.
20 K: nan, 1 Tang, or bucket.
50 Tangs, 1 Ban.
2 Bans, 1 Kian, or Koyan.
One k: n^n is equal to about 1-J- English pints. Liquids are also
measured by this table. Oil, however, is soraetiraes sold by weight.
The measure of time is not less singular than any other. The
time-keeper, like that of the Hindoos, consists of a cup, with an aper
ture in the bottom, floating in a vessel of water, which sinks at the
terraination of each watch.

divisions or time. 287
Siamese Time Measure.
10 Ak-san, ] Pran.
6 Prans, 1 put.
15 Puts, 1 BAt, or y'j^ of an hour.
10 B^t, 1 Turn, or hour of the night,
3 Turn, 1 Yam.
4 Yam, 1 K'hun, or night.
12 Mong, (hour of the day,) 1 Wan, or day.
7 Wan, 1 Kwap-a: tit, or week.
29 and 30 Wan, 1 Duan, or month.
12 Duan, 1 pi, or year.
12 Pi, 1 Cycle.
The day commences at sunrise. The forenoon is divided into six
watches, and the afternoon, until sunset, into the same number.
From sunset until midnight includes two watches, and from midnight
till morning the same number. In Siamese, the day watches are
called Mong, and those of the night, Tum,
The division of time into weeks of seven days Was probably de
rived from the Portuguese. They are named, in Siamese, as fol
lows: — Wan-a. thit, (literally day of the sun,) Sunday.
Wan-chan, (moon-day,) Monday.
Wang-ang-khan, Tuesday.
Wan-put, Wednesday.
Wan-pra-hat, Thursday.
Wan-suk, Friday.
Wan-sou, Saturday.
The Siamese reckon 29 and 30 days to the months, alternately,
which, with the exception of the first two, are numbered. This gives
their year 354 days; but they complete the measure by adding an in
tercalary raonth every third year, and omit reckoning three or four
days, as the case may be, before the commencement of each new
year. The mouth is divided into the bright and dark halves, corre
sponding to the increase and wane of the moon. '
The Siamese year is divided into three seasons; the hot season,
from the full moon in February to the full moon in June; the rainy
season, from the full moon of June to the full moon of October, the
remaining time being the cool season. The new year commences
after the close of the fifth month, which, in 1836, falls on the 15th of
April. The great division of time is into two cycles, the greater of sixty,
and the lesser of twelve years. The last is said to be employed for

288 extent of the Siamese empire.
astrological purposes, in casting nativities, &c The names of the
years are, nevertheless, inserted in all important papers; they are
named after different animals, as follows: —
1st. Chuat, or year of the Rat. 7th. M: Mia, or year of the Horse.

2nd. Ch-lu,

Cow.

8th. M: Me,

Goat.

3d. Kh&n,

Tiger.

9th. Wak, (1836) '

Monkey

4th. Th6,

Rabbit.

10th. R: ka.

Cock.

5th. M: rong,

Dragon.
11th. Cha, '
Dog.
6th. M: Seng,
Serpent.
12th. Kun, '
Hog.
In dates of letters, &c., the Siamese mention, first, the day of the
week, then the evening or morning of the day of the month, the in
crease or wane of the moon, and the name and number of the year.
In all important documents, the year of the Siamese era is also in
serted. The present year, (1836,) in their phraseology, is the 1197th
from the commenceraent of the magnificent kingdom of Thai.*
The Siamese have two eras, a sacred and a popular one; the for
mer, used by the Talapoins in all matters relating to religion, dates
from the death of Guatama; the latter was introduced in commemo
ration of the introduction of the worship of Guatama into Siam, which
happened in the 1181st year of the sacred epoch, corresponding with
the A. D. 638, so that the God of Siam has been dead 2379 years.t
Of the precise extent of the Siamese empire we have no certain in
formation; and, from the frequent acquisition of territory, by con
quest, it is not easy to ascertain what are its precise boundaries.
Crawfurd places its extreme western limit, including some desert
islands in the bay of Bengal, in the meridian of 97° 50' east of Green
wich, and the eastern limit in about the 105th. The northern bounda
ry is under the twenty-third, and the southern under the fifth degree
of north latitude, that is, on the west, or Malay side of the gulf. Mr.
Crawfurd commits a glaring error in placing the southern boundary
on the Cambodian side, " in about the same parallel " as that on the
side of the Malay peninsula. The island of Pulo Oby, at the southern
extremity of Cambodia, is situated in 8° 25' north; so that, even if
the Siamese possessions include that island, there is a difference of
three and a half degrees of latitude — a space of open sea, claimed in
vain for Siam. The area of the whole country is estimated at 190,000
geographical miles, including, besides Siam proper, Laos on the north,
a part of Cambodia, and a large portion of the Malay peninsula.
* For the above tables of weight and measure I am indebted to the kindness
of Missionary Charles Robinson.
t Joimial of an Embassy from the Governor-General of India to the Courts of
Siam and Cochin China, by John Crawfurd, &c. &c., quarto. London, 1828.
king's titles  GOVERNMENT. 289
Except in the vicinity of Bankok, the country is mountainous and
well watered. The soil is fertile, abounding in fruits, dye woods,
medicinal gums and timber. The teak, so useful in ship building,
grows in great abundance and of an excellent quality. The total
population of the empire, according to Mr. Crawfurd, is 2,790,500.
^ The government is a despotism of the most absolute kind. The
king is the god, the law of the land, and his name is known only to
feWjAhat it may not be taken in vain, yke is mentioned by several
epithets which are considered peculiarly soft and flattering; as " the
sacred Lord of Heads"—" the sacred Lord of Lives"—" the Owner
of All"— "Lord of the White Elephants"— " Most exalted Lord,
infallible and infinitely powerful.'/ Even the members of his body
are designated in adulatory terms; his feet, hands, nose, ears and
eyes are never mentioned without the prefix of Lord, or sacred Lord.
Every thing belonging to or attached to his majesty's person is also
styled golden. To visit him, is to come to l)is magnificent majesty's
golden feet — to speak in his golden ear, &o.'
The country is divided into districts; each one is governed by a
minister, appointed by the king, aided by a governor and other sub
ordinate officers; and the more distant provinces are under viceroys
or rajahs. There appears to be no written law; at least, there is
none observed, the will or whim of the officer being often decisive.
All the people, with the exception of the Chinese, European and
American residents, are virtually slaves, or in a state of slavery.
The officers at the head of sub-divisions of districts require them to
labor on public works, one month out of every three or four, accord
ing to official pleasure, in building temples, junks, roads or any thing
else; which requisition is termed, " a call to public business." If a
superior officer be engaged in any work, he calls upon one under him
to furnish a number of men, greater or less according to circum
stances, to labor one month; when this term has expired, he calls on
another, for an equal quota, and so continues till the job be accom
plished. The laborers support themselves and their families, and
receive no compensation for their public services, except the glorious
privilege of living in Siam or Thai, literally the " Free Country."
We may almost say with Paudeen' O'Rafferty, " They work for no
thing and live upon less," content to be slaves as long they entertain
the name of being free.
A number of people of various countries, are held in perpetual
bondage, including those who are taken in war, and those who are
so unfortunate as to be in debt, because they have no hope of libera-
37

290 religion and priests.
tion unless some friend step forward and satisfy the claim against
them. Debtors are allowed no compensation for their services, but,
on the contrary, are charged for food, clothing, medical attendance,
&c., so that the original d6bt is constantly increasing.
Except in case of debt, the Chinese are exempted from laboring
on public works, by paying the triennial tax of four and a half
ticMs, before mentioned. Some say this tax is collected yearly.
The religion of Siam is that of Boudha. The belief is, that after
death the soul transmigrates through animals of the inferior classes,
in gradation according to the good or evil the individual has done in
this world, until it arrives, throiigh meritorious deeds, to the condi
tion of supreme beatitude, which is the state of nonentity. Every
animal is animated by some human soul, and hence the general re
spect for life. Though the Siamese will not kill an animal, they will
generally eat of its flesh, because the sin lies only in driving the soul
from its temporary abode;
The talapoins or priests, supposed to number at least one hundred
thousand, are maintained by daily contributions of rice, &c., from the
people, and annual presents from the king, consisting of money and
yellow cloth for their robes. At funerals they often receive valuable
presents. • They assemble daily in the wats or temples, and repeat
prayers which they do not understand — not an unfrequent occurrence
in other countries — because they are in the Bali language, which they
do not generally comprehend. Not more thain ten in the whole king
dom, it is said, are capable of reading, understandingly, the sacred
books, which are all in this language. They relieve the people from
all devotional exercises and holy acts, except that of daily bestowing
upon themselves boiled rice and other little offerings. For three
months of his life, every Siamese is obliged to be a talapoin, and they
generally assume the yellow robe at twenty years of age. They may
doff this beggar's life when it suits them after the term has expired;
but if they take up the robe a second time, it must be for life. The
usual number in the capital is about twenty thousand, varying witli
the price of rice, and provisions; prosperous agriculture, abundant
crops, making the fruits of the soil cheap, detracts from the worship
of the great Boudha, distinguished by being sixty-eight feet long, and
having all his fingers and toes of the same length.
The talapoins are of different grades or classes, and are presided
over by one, whom, from the nature of his office, we may in common
parlance term the Pope. He has other priests below him, answering
to the cardinals, archbishops, bishops and other dignitaries of the

PRINCES OF SIAM. 291
church of Rome. The whole system, including the monastic and
beggarly lives of the churchmen, bears a strong resemblance to the
Roman catholic institution.
The wats or temples are numerous, costly and many of them su
perbly magnificent. They occupy the best situations in the kingdom.
They are the residences of the priests, and the places of education for
all male Siamese.
The people seldom visit the wats, nor do they ever perform any act
of worship. They as well as the priests are ever ready to acknow
ledge that Boudha died long, long since; but they believe there will
be another incarnation of the deity, and that all his fingers and toes
will be of the same length. They are anxiously expecting such a
person; and for this reason, perhaps, may feel more curiosity to see
the foot than the face of the stranger. These being the marks by •
which his incarnation is to be known, it is said, that Boudha, before
his death, caused some pattern statues of himself to be made, that
he might be the more readily recognised on his second coming. For
this reason, all images of him in Siam are made after this fashion.

CHAPTER XXVII.

SKETCHES IN SIAM.

Apnl, 1836.
The morning after our arrival, we visited His Highness the prince
Momfanoi, literally, " Prince of Heaven, Junior." He is also called
Chawfanoi, the ultimate syllable signifying the younger. He is half
brother to the king, and in truth, rightful heir to the throne, which,
on'the late king's death, his present Magnificent Majesty usurped,
and afterwards proposed to create Chawfaya, the elder brother of the
prince and legitimate successor, second king; but he scorned the
proposal, and, declaring that he would never bend to, nor.do homage
to the usurper, assumed the yellow robe of the Talapoins for life; by

292 SUCCESSION TO THE THRONE— VISIT TO MOMFANOI.
this means he is enabled to ,keep his word, because they are ex
cused from all the Ravish ceremonies of Siamese etiquette^'and ifi
the presence of the Idgher grades, the king himself appears upon his
elbows and kneeSj/^On the refusal of Chawfaya, an uncle of the
reigning monarch was appointed second king; but since his death,
which occurred about three years since, no successor has been
named to this office, and it is asserted that His Majesty will not
make another second kiqg, because he is entitled, according to Siam
ese custom, to one-third of the revenue of the empire.
Chawfaya leads a very holy life, measured by the Siamese cri
terion of sanctity, and enjoys a rank equal to that of a bishop. His
assumption of the yellow robe a second time, makes Momfanoi the
legitimate heir; but his ascent to the throne is not absolutely certain.
The king has the power of naming his successor from among his
lawful heirs. /The reigning monarch, though he possesses more
than three hundred wives/has no children living, legitimate
enough to wear the crown; and, since the death of his lawful son.
Prince Momfanoi has "crept into favor," and rumor states, he is
about being affianced to His Magnificent Majesty's favorite daughter,
notwithstanding that he has already nine.wives. If this report prove
true, there is no doubt but he will succeed to the throne; es mejor
caer en gracia que ser gracioao.
Being very popular and full of enterprise and military spirit, the
prince has been regarded with a jealous eye, or at least with surveil
lance. This state of things makes him very cautious and fearful of
thwarting any of His Magnificent Majesty's views. Therefore, he
seldom goes abroad by day, but goes about, as he says good humor-
edly, " like a thief at night." He makes frequent visits to the
palace after sunset, the time selected by the king to receive his seve
ral ministers to hear their reports, after the cares of the day are
done. We found his Highness on board of his barque, where he gave us
a hearty welcome. The size of this vessel is about two hundred tons,
and is somewhat in the European style; but, having been at first in
tended to be a junk, and then changing the plan after the work was
well advanced, she draws more water forward than aft. He is now
fitting her out with the aid of three English sailors in his employ
ment, and so far, everything is neat and well finished.
Instead of the costume described, when the prince visited the
Peacock, he wore nothing but a heavy silk sarong or waist cloth.
He ushered us into his cabin, where he offered tea and cigars. His

THE ROYAL ADELAIDE  THE PALACE. 293
numerous attendants, all apparently on the familiar footing of com
panions, were resting on their elbows and knees around him, chew
ing arecanut, which His Highness does not use. He had two beau
tiful parrots from Borneo, of which he seemed to be very fond. We
accompanied him over the vessel, and found every thing going for
ward actively. The workmen were generally seated on the deck,
and, therefore, were not under the necessity of desisting from their
labors, as would have been the case had they been standing. The
prince himself took the gouge from the hands of a mechanic, and,
squatting down, began to apply it with skill, to a piece of wood
which was turned by a man pulling a cord, passed about it like
the string of a drill-bow, the ends of Ihe wood revolving on points
like those in the frame of a turning lathe. While observing these
things, we heard a shout or huzza from a hundred voices on the river,
raised in a long canoe-like boat, pulling a hundred oars. The rowers
were standing behind the oars, loudly marking time with the right
foot, while one stood in the bows, striking together two pieces of
bamboo, as a guide to their simultaneous efforts. The boat and crew
belonged to the prince, who exercises them daily in this manner,
which explained the salutation we had just heard. He has several
thousand men he thus trains, or to the use of small arms daily. He
delights in military affairs, but for their sake does not omit any op
portunity for acquiring general knowledge. On one occasion he bor
rowed our drummer to teach his own our rolls, calls, &c., and on
another was very particular in having explained to him the object of
having lightning rods in ships. The day afterwards we found his
armorer hard at work, making one for this vessel. He has called
the barque, the " Royal Adelaide;'' and with his own hand, has
painted the name in English characters, on a rack for small arms, at
the after-hatch. His taste for painting is displayed in several places;
a large chest in the cabin is marked on the front with his own
name, T. Momfanoi, and he showed us several of his drawings.
The vessel was lying about ten yards frora the shore, in front of
his palace, which has the external appearance of a fort. The walls
are snowy white and surmounted by embrasures for guns.
We accompanied the prince on shore, and as we walked to the
palace gate, every native we met fell on his face till Momfanoi had
passed. Within the walls we found, every where, evidence of the
master's tastes. A number of people, male and female, were at
work, some twisting or ' laying-up ' rope, and others at various occu
pations. Several of both sexes had chains on the arms and legs.

294 palace yard — khon paa.
and their naked backs bore recent marks of the bamboo. It was the
first time I had seen women in chains, and I felt a sudden recoil of
mind at the sight, of mingled disgust and pity, and perhaps, a desire
that they should be at once free; but on reflection, I suppose it was
correct, for they are not of the same comparative feebleness of body
as in christian lands.
Before entering his dwelling, Momfanoi led us to see hi*pets :4 large
baboon, a half dozen beautiful deer, a pair of large black bears from
Borneo, with a white stripe over the fore part of each shoulder; they
were tame and playful; and a large cassowary from New Holland, so
tame as to eat from One's hand, was running about at liberty. He
now called our attention to a variety of parrots and krokotoas, in the
corridor or veranda, surrounding the house; and then led us to his
stables to see his fin^stud of horses; and thence, to look at several
storks, jungle fowls in cages, and a half dozen asses and monkeys.
He had ordered three or four alligators to be brought from beneath
the stable in the mean time, and their jaws to be secured, that we
might examine them without risk.
In another part of the court or area, were field pieces, and guns of
various kinds and calibers, ships' spars, &c., neatly arranged beneath
a shed. He had numerous questions to ask about every thing he ex
hibited, and was never satisfied till he felt sure that he clearly un
derstood the answers given to him.
He now led us into the house, saying, " Gentlemen, you are wel
come — I am glad to see you." The interior is lofty, though but one
story, and is divided into three apartments by two screens, which do
not reach* the ceiling. The centre apartment was furnished in the
Anglo- Asiatic styleVand as neatly as any house I have seen in India.
On a table, near a sofa, at one end of this drawing-room, were/io-
lins, flutes, and a flageolet/^upon which instruments His Highness
performs. The adjoining apartment was filled as a study, furnished
with a small collection of English books, a fine barometer, &c. A
small room communicating with it, is arranged as a private museum,
in which there are many fine specimens of natural history; quadru
peds, birds, reptiles, &c., all preserved and set up by himself.
Araong the strange aniraals belonging to Siam, there is one described
under the name of Khon Paa, which belongs to the known genus of
natural history. This animal has been seen by the prince and hun
dreds of others, yet we must confess, we are inclined to doubt the
accuracy of description. The Khon Paa resembles man; it is five
feet high, walks erect, has no knee joints, and runs faster than a

ELEPH.VVr-SWORD^LAOS ORGAN. 295
horse. Should he accidentally fall, he is forced to crawl to a tree or
something else, bv which he again raises himself on his feet. His
skin is as transparent as a China horn lantern: his entrails are dis
tinctly seen through it, and his abdomen shines like a looking-glass —
credit qui vult, non ego. Under the superstitious notion, that the pre
sence of the animal in Bankok was unlucky, his owners were bam-
booed, and all their property was confiscated by the king for bring
ing him there. This treatment caused so much terror, that no one
has since ventured to bring a specimen of the beast from his native
lurking places.
When we returned from the museum fo the drawing-room, the
prince ordered wine. Port and Madeira, which were excellent, and
cigars of Siamese manufacture.
So gracefuUy did he do the honors of his house, in spite of his being
nearly naked, no one'would hesitate to pronounce that Nature had
stamped him — gentleman. He gave his attentions equally to all his
guests, asked questions on almost every subject, and, when the an
swers were not perfectly clear, always repeated his inquiries, and on
two or three disputed points, referred to books in the library to sup
port his opinions.
He showed ns the sword, used by the Siamese when they fight on
elephants, which one might mistake for a spear. The handle was four
feet long, of fine heavy wood, and perfectly straight, having a screw
joint in the middle to make it more portable. The blade was one-
edged, two feet long and gently curved; the guard was a disc set
with gems, and the scabbard was enamelled. Such an instrument,
in a bold determined hand, might be used with the effects of a scythe.
A musical instrument, invented in Laos, the country to the north
of Siam proper, was next exhibited. It consists of fourteen bamboos
a half inch in diameter, and from eight to twelve feet long, placed in
two parallel rows, containing seven each. The barrels or tubes are
of graduated lengths, like those of an oi^n, and from the resemblance
to that instrument, this might be termed the Laos organ. About two
feet from the square end, the tubes pass through a short cylinder of
wood, at right angles, and about three inches above it, each tube is
pierced by a small hole, to which a finger is applied when playing.
The player holds the instrument between the palms, and blows into
the open end of the cylinder.
We requested that some of his people would play for us. " Wow,"
exclaimed the prince in his usual manner of expressing surprise.

296 MUSIC  DINNER — ANTs' EGGS  EASTERN LUXURY.
" Wow— I will play for you myself,/ and, at once, calling an old man
who was resting a la Siamese, took the instrument between his palms.
The old man crawled close up to the Prince's feet, and sitting a la
Turque, looked up into his face, while his Highness played a showy
interlude. The minstrel shut his eyes, and turning his withered
countenance heavenward, began singing a melancholy air to his mas
ter's accompaniment. We were surprised at the power of the in
strument, and much pleased with the performance.
He had no sooner ended his song, than the old man began to move
back to his former station, but a word detained him at his master's
feet. " Now," said the prince, " I will give you another kind of
tune," and at once struck up an air which might have been mistaken
for Scotch, had we not been assured that it was Siamese. The min
strel gathered confidence from the music, and sang with much spirit
and better effect than at first.
When we took leave, he detained some of us to dine; and in the
mean time entertained the company by showing them several Siamese
curiosities, and conversing on all subjects. About three o'clock P. M.
the table was spread in the Anglo-Asiatic style, — a mixture of Eng
lish comfort and Eastern show; — the dinner was remarkable for the
variety and exquisite flavor of the curries. Among them, was one
consisting of^nts' eggs, a costly and ratich esteemed luxury of Siam-^
They are not larger than grains of sand, and, to a palate unaccustomed
to them, not particularly savory — they are almost tasteless. /Besides
being curried, they are brought to fable, rolled in green leaves, min
gled with shreds or very fine slices of fat por)^ Here was seen an
ever-to-be-remembered luxury of the East^ Two slaves stood waving
fans behind the Prince's chair, and many other attendants were
crouched upon elbows and knees around the roonW^to whom he occa
sionally translated such parts of the conversation as he thought would
interest them. As he thus sat, conversing cheerfully, circulating his
choice^ines,/accurately cooled, and entertaining his guests, a slave
was beneath the table, busily occupied the while, scratching His
Highness' naked shins.
On another occasion we visited the Prince at night, on board of
the Royal Adelaide, which at present seems to be his hobby. We
were no sooner on the deck, than he exclaimed, " Wow — I am glad
to see you; walk into the cabin." There wefound him with several
of his attendants. He showed us an American newspaper, which
contained a list of the officers of the Peacock, and the announcement

PHRENOLOY  CHARACTER OF MOJIFANOI. 297
of the tiien projected voyage to Siam. He had had the newspaper
six months, but never had communicated the news to the king. He
laughed heartily when he related the anecdote.
Among other subjects that of phrenology was mentioned, and I
proposed to illustrate its principles by the examination of some of
the heads of his attendants. This was agreed to, although there is
a strong prejudice existing against putting the hand on the head of
a Siamese. In relation to tiiis point, there is an anecdote told of
the P'hra Klang. When the British Envoy from the government of
India was here in 1822, he resided in the second story ofa house;
to avoid the ill luck and disgrace of having any body for a moment
actually over his head, the worthy P'hra Klang, a man of some three
or four hundred pounds substance, was in the habit of entering the
Ambassador's apartments through a window, by a ladder placed
against the outside of the budding.
As the Siamese almost invariably burn the dead, it is almost im
possible to procure a skull for phrenological comparison. I there
fore determined to obtain the measure of some of them, and to do
so, excited their curiosity, to lull the prejudice above mentioned. I
was lucky in guessing the predominant traits of those who submitted
to examination. One of thera was a brother to the second P'hra
Klang, and, according to the Prince, a gentieman of pure blood.
When the character given by me was interpreted to him, he seemed
for a moment stupid with amazement; then seizing my hand, said,
" You have told me so much that I conceived impossible for you to
know, there is one thing more, I entreat you to tell me. How long
have I got to live?" At this the prince and all of us laughed. He
looked as grave as though he expected to hear me name the day of
his death.
Momfanoi said he would submit his own head to examination at
some other time in private; but no other opportunity occurred.
The character of the Prince Momfanoi might be deduced from
what has been already said. He is docile, active, determined, and
considering he is of a race that has taken scarcely a step to emerge
from ignorance and barbarism, he is liberal-minded and in a great
degree free from the many prejudices, comraon to his countrymen.
His manners are easy, but are rather of the kind which charac
terize naval officers, than the carpet knights of royal courts. Pos
sessing eminent qualities and perceptive powers, fitting hira for a
high and useful station, it must be a subject of regret to all philan-
38

298 WHITE APE.
thropists, if he be not nominated successor to the^ throne of " the
free." The English language he acquired from the American mis
sionaries, and, delighting to diffuse the knowledge he acquires, he has
already taught one of his slaves, a lad of sixteen or seventeen, to
speak it intelligibly. Whenever he hears any thing novel, he im
mediately communicates it to his attendants, who always listen atten
tively to whatever he says. This disposition to communicate infor
mation is so great, as to impart a peurile cast to his whole character,
which is increased by the promptitude with which he appears ready to
undertake or to execute any plan that squares with his fancy. On one
occasion he was asked whether it were possible to procure a white
monkey. "I don't know that — it is a rare animal — I have a white
ape." At this moment he was interrupted, and the conversation took
another turn. At the expiration of a few minutes, though it was
night and we were on board the Royal Adelaide, the white ape was
brought in. By candle light it appeared quite white and woolly like
a sheep, but in daylight the color is yellowish. The face, the palms
and soles are black, and the eyes are of a very dark chestnut color,
or what might be termed, without impropriety, black. It is of the
sort designated as the long armed ape; the arm from'the shoulder to the
end of the middle finger, of this specimen, measured nineteen inches,
and the whole height, when erect, was twenty -three inches.
The animal was for some time alive on board of the Peacock; it was
grave ahd disposed to sleep a great deal; the stufied specimen is now
in the collection at the academy of Natural Sciences of Philadel
phia. In the event of Momfanoi ascending the throne, great changes will
no doubt be effected in Siam. Improvements in every branch of use
ful industry may be anticipated; education will becorae more general,
liberal ideas will be diffused; our missionaries will derive more bene
ficial results from their labors; Christianity will be established, and,
last though not least to some of the community, our commercial treaty
will be worth a great deal to our country. In these things, the Prince
will, in all probability, be the leader, and the people will follow —
quails rex talis grex —
"For princes are the glass, the school, the book
Where subjects eyes do leam, do read, do look."
We do not imagine that all these will be accomplished, but only be-

PHYSICAL CHARACTER OF THE SIAMESE. 299
lieve that an impulse will be given by his example, which, in the
course of time, must lead to the result we predict.
The Siamese belong to that variety of the human species which
writers on the subject denominate the Mongol. Their average height,
according to the measure of Mr. Crawfurd, is five feet two inches,
which I suspect to be near the truth, from the few to whom I have
applied the rule. The lower limbs are stout and well formed; the
body is long, and hence the figure is not graceful. The shoulders
are broad, and the muscles of the chest are well developed. The
neck is short and the head is in fair proportion. The hands are large,
and the complexion of a dark olive, but not jetty. Among females
of the higher classes, who pass their time mostly within the harem of
their lords, the skin is of a very much lighter hue; in some instances
it might be described as a very dark brunette. The forehead is nar
row at the superior part, the face, between the cheek bones broad,
and the chin is, again, narrow, so that the whole contour is rather lo
zenge-shaped than oval. The eyes are remarkable for the upper lid
being extended below the under one, at the corner next to the nose,
but it is not elongated like that organ in the Chinese or Tartar races.
The eyes are dark, or black, and the white is dirty, or of a yellow
ish tint. The nostrils are broad, but the nose is not flattened, like
that of the African. The mouth is not well formed, the lips project
ing slightly; and it is always disfigured, according to our notions of
beauty, by the universal and disgusting habit of chewing arecanut.
The hair is jet black, renitent, and coarse, almost bristly, and is
worn in a tuft on top of the head, about four inches in diameter, the
rest being shaved, or clipped very close. A few scattering hairs,
which scarcely merit the name of beard, grow upon the chin and up
per lip, and these they customarily pluck out.
The occipital portion of the head is nearly vertical, and, compared
with the anterior and sincipital divisions, very small; and I remarked,
what I have not seen in any other than in some ancient Peruvian
skulls from Pachacamac, that the lateral halves of the head are not
symmetrical. In the region of firmness, the skull is very prominent;
this is remarkably true of the talapoins.
The following measurements, with callipers, of four purely Siamese
heads, may convey a more definite idea than any description I can
give.

SOO

MEASUREMENT OV SIAMESE HEADS — SHUTTLECOCK.

Inches

Between openings of external ears, . - . -
parietal protuberances, . . . -
root of nose and occiput, or antero-posterior diam.
the temporal fosss, . . . . -
the external angles of the eyes,
the cheek bones, - - - -
the angles of the jaws, . . . -
From the incisors to root of nose, ....
the chin to root of nose, - - - -
root of nose to the crineal line, ...
the ear to the sagittal suture, - . . -
Facial angle, . .....

5^

Si

Si

Si

6

6

6

Si

7

n

7i

ei

5

4#

^

5

4J

4i

H

4*

5i

5^

Si

Si

Si

^

5

4jJ

2#

3

n

2J

4*

5

H

4J

3i

2|

3

2

5|

Si

5i

5^

59°

67"

67"

59'^

Though active, the Siamese are not a warlike people. The only
athletic exercises I have seen them practice, in my short sojourn,
were rowing, and playing shuttle-cock with the feet.
A half dozen were standing in a circle of about thirty feet in di
ameter, equidistant from each other. The shuttlecock, or bird, was
a piece of leather, with numerous feathers stuck round it, which was
kept flying from side to side, struck only by the sole or knee. I have
never seen a more graceful exercise, nor one requiring more activity
and suppleness of limb.
The Siamese, like all Asiatics of low latitudes, are disposed to in
dolence, arid to the indulgence of the animal propensities, where
these do not contravene their religious notions, to which, however,
they are not scrupulously wedded. They possess an inordinate self-
esteem which places them above all nations, except the Chinese, whom
they acknowledge to be superior, and to whom they pay occasional
tribute, and the Burmahs, whom they rank as their equals. All their
superfluous wealth they devote to the building of temples, to obtain
what they esteem the prospective benefit of their souls. They are
mean, rapacious, and cruel, and never .betray any of that high toned
generosity of feeling which wins our admiration or demands our re
spect. In proof of their cruelty, we have only to adduce their prac
tice of enslaving those taken in war, without regard either to age or
sex; and their wantonly barbarous treatment of the unfortunate king
of Laos, and his family, who were brought to Bankok in a cage, ex
hibited like criminals, and exposed to the rudeness of an ignorant
and savage populace.* They are suspicious, vaccilating, and pro
crastinating, and destitute of those principles of honor which give
stability to society in the christian world; the law which consigns the

? Gutzlaff's Voyages. Toumlin's Residence in Siam. Abeel's residence in
China and the neighboring countries.

MORAL CHARACTER OF THE SIAMESE. 301
person of the debtor to slavery and stripes, at the will of the creditor,
has its origin in these traits of character. Cringing and servile to
their superiors, in the extreme, they are arrogant, haughty, and ty
rannical in regard to those who are below them in rank. Though
humble, to the dust, to their great men, in our presence, and with
whom our intercourse was on terms of perfect equality, when no Si
amese of distinction vvas present, they conducted themselves towards
us with a hauteur bordering on insolence. They never manifested
the slightest sign of respect, but crowded upon us at all times, when
not kept off by reproof, or by forcible means; and, had we not been
looked on somewhat in the light of the king's guests, I question whe
ther our treatment, generally, would have been bearable, unless the
hope of gaining something from us had purchased a more seemly en
tertainment. They v/ere constantly begging for whatever they saw,
with most shameless effrontery, not iii the least abashed by the most
contemptuous refusal.
Their virtues and their vices are venal; the services of the judge
and the assassin are equally purchasable at a very moderate price,
but will always be sold to the highest bidder of the contending par
ties, and they deem themselves fortunate, if by any chance they ob
tain fees from both sides.
The only commendable quality of the Siamese character, so far as
I could learn, is their filial respect, which is kept up through life
with all the punctilious exactness which characterizes it in infancy.
/The son never stands in the presence of either parent, nor assumes
a seat on a level with his father. Even his Magnificent Majesty
himself, once a month, humiliates himself and appears before his
mother on his knees and elbows. The queen dowager and the chief
of the Talapoins are the only two individuals in Siam who have no
superiors./ Like all ignorant and uneducated people, they are superstitious.
Without referring to a belief in ghosts, witchcraft, lucky and unlucky
days, this trait is amusingly observed in their mode of detecting a
thief. A gentleman who has been long a resident at Bankok, re
lated to me the following anecdote.
An individual lost from his apartment two bars of gold. Immedi
ately on missing them, all those persons suspected of the theft were
called together, and a conjurer summoned to declare who was the
guilty individual. He came provided with several square bars, of a
metallic appearance, six or seven inches long, and thick as the little
finger, which, on examination, proved to be of a species of clay. He

S02 SIAMESE MODE OF DETECTING A THIEF.
charged each one with the theft, and asked them individually
whether they knew any thing of the gold, and was answered in the
negative. I^e then lighted a small wax candle, and stuck upon each
side of it a tical, obtained from the man who had lost the gold, and,
muttering an invocation or spell, took a piece of clay, and three
times very ceremoniously raised it above his head. Then measuring
it very carefully by the little finger, he broke it into pieces an
inch and a half long, and gave to each suspected person three of
them, which they were directed to chew as fast as possible, and
prove their innocence by spitting, when the mastication was com
plete. All set to work chewing, and soon all were trying to spit;
and as upon the success of the effort depends the innocence or guilt
of the accused, in the opinion of the Siamese, the scene may be rea
dily imagined. In this case there were ten attempting to spit, and
at last, after much labor, all succeeded, except a girl of fifteen, who
was finally pronounced guilty; and the conjurer with the candle and
tic&ls walked off in triumph.
The test by clay is so much in favor, that, upon it alone, persons
are often heavily ironed, and daily flogged, until they confess, or the
stolen property be returned. In the present instance, the poor girl
received only a promise of such treatment, and probably owes her
escape altogether to the proverbial faithlessness of the Siamese to
their words.

SIAMESE BADGES OF NOBILITY. 303

CHAPTER XXVIII.

SKETCHES IN SIAM.

April, 1836.
On returning from our visit to Momfanoi, we found Mr. Roberts
preparing to visit a distinguished officer of the government, entitled,
Phya-Ratsa-pa-vade. Desirous of conforming as much as possible to
the customs of the East, on all occasions while in Siam, we were
careful to appear with as much pomp and circumstance as our means
would admit, and made all public visits in full dress, preceded by
our band. We marched along the narrow streets, to a military air,
followed by a crowd, but observed none to crouch before us, as they
are wont to do in the presence of the tea-kettled nobdity of the
magnificent kingdom of Thai.
A few minutes brought us to the dwelling of the " big officer," as
the worthy captain of the port was pleased to call him. It is a large
one story building, enclosed in a spacious yard; and the centre of
the front opens upon a broad veranda, exposing a hall of eighty by
forty feet, whose lofty ceiling is supported by numerous wooden
columns. The floor is elevated about four feet above the ground,
and was covered with mats. The hall was furnished with chairs,
tables and Chinese mirrors, and many lamps hung from the ceiling.
Close to the middle of the back wall reclined the great man on a
dais, clothed in a silk sarong. Before him, on the dais, were his
patents of nobility and badges of office, consisting of a tea-kettle,
chunam box, spittoons and drinking cup, all of pure gold. To his
left, crouched on the ground, were a fan bearer and a sword bearer,
and on either hand were his numerous slaves and inferior officers.
Instead of looking at the dress of a Siamese to estimate his rank,
it is necessary to cast the eye upon the slave following him, who bears
upon a tray the badge which designates his master's rank. Tea-ket-

304 VISIT TO THE PHYA-RATSA-PA-VADE.
ties of gold and silver, plain or ornamented, are patents of the high
est grades of nobility, and are presented by the king as commissions
of office.
A row of chairs stood beneath the veranda, facing the Phya-Rat
sa-pa-vade, for our accommodation, to which we were showed by Pi
adade, who acted as interpreter. He bent down upon his elbows and
knees, and crawled in the most abject manner to half way between
us and our host, and there remained during the interview.
At the foot of each one of the pillars of the front row, were spit
toons and quivers of cigars, placed on low stools. The doors leading
to inner apartments were concealed by silk screens. A crowd of
naked rabble was in the yard,, and another beyond the wall gazing
upon us to gratify their idle curiosity.
The scene was opened by the son of the General, who received us
on our landing at Bankok. Dressed in his gaudy uniform and cocked
hat, he crawled along at our feet, on his knees and one hand, as well
as he might, offering cigars with the other, to each of us as he passed :
And then returned in the same manner with a lighted candle and pa
per matches to light them by.
A few common place questions were asked and answered through
Piadade, who made a salam at the beginning and end of every sen
tence. After a few minutes, the Ratsa-pa-vade asked whether our
quarters and situation were agreeable, and hoped we would waive all
ceremony and make ourselves quite at ease. Tables loaded with
fruits and sweetmeats of various kinds were now wheeled up before
us, and, during the interview, tea, without sugar or milk, was served
several times.
At the request of the Ratsa-pa-vade, our band played several airs,
which, he was pleased to say, was the best music he had ever heard.
At the end of a half hour, we took leave by shaking hands, and re
turned in the order we came. Very soon after reaching the house,
several slaves arrived laden with fruit, presented by the officer we
had just visited. It is an invariable custom in Siam, to send presents
immediately, by way of showing that the visit has been acceptable.
Early the following morning, Ramon, whom the reader may recol
lect as one of our interpreters at Paknam, requested me, in the name
of Phya-pi-pat-kosa, familiarly known among foreigners as the se
cond P'hra Klang or second minister, to visit him professionally. I
appointed ten o'clock, and a little before that hour, Ramon appeared
and announced, he was ready. Accompanied by a friend, I took my
place in the Phya-pi-pat-kosa's sampan or gondola, rowed by seven

A SIAMESE HAREM. 305
men, and, crossing the busy river, we entered a canal and pursued
its course for nearly a mile, threading our way amidst boats of every
description. Moored along the banks were many large sampans, with
semicylindrical roofs, occupied as their permanent residence by large
faroUies. Some were salt shops, and others were stored with earthen
ware. The people were nearly naked, and though wanting the dig
nity, they apparently possessed the ease desired by the poet. Some
were whiling away time, in pursuing game, industriously sought, in the
bristly hair of each others' crowns. Many were swiraraing in the
water. Fishermen with baskets slung upon their backs to hold what
ever they might catch, were wading about waist deep, net in hand.
The scene was attractive for its novelty, and we wondered how so
many people could exist in so small a space; they were wretchedly
filthy in appearance, and so disgusting that we felt no regret at
leaving. The sampan stopped at the foot of a rude stair, by which we mount
ed on t|ie bank, and entered a large yard through an ornamented gate
way./ Within stood the dwelling of the second minister. It is exten
sive, and, like most of the houses in Bankok, one story high. The
front presents an open hall with painted walls and carved joists, gaudy
as the unsubstantial show of theatrical scenery. In this hall we were
requested to remain; Ramon disappeared behind a screen, and did not
return before we had leisurely examined the apartment. It had three
sides, the front being open, and supported by pillars of teak wood,
and protected from the weather by a great mat, swinging like a shut
ter from the eaves. The only furniture it contained was the dais or
low table, upon which the great men of Siam recline when they re
ceive their guests. Several slaves were lazily dusting and sweeping
the mats upon the floor. /
Presently Ramon beckoned us from the side of the screen, and we
passed through an inner court, upon which opened an apartment si
milar to the one we had left, except it was neither so neat, nor so
much ornamented. Here the Phya-pi-pat-kosa, a short stout man,
with a round good-humored face, clothed in a sarong of crimson silk,
reclined upon a dais, in the midst of his family. Twenty of his wives
were seated round a la Turque, with perhaps as many children. A
female, resting on her knees, about two yards from the dais was fan
ning the minister. Thus we were introduced unexpectedly into a
Siamese harem. The ladies were the fairest among their conntry-
women, I had the fortune to see; 'and I may add, they were graceful
in their manners. They were all dressed alike, in silk drawers ga-
39

306

A SIAMESE HAREM.

thered full about the waist and ankles, and had a narrow scarf of
black Canton crape thrown carelessly over the shoulders, which very
partially and fitfully concealed the bosom. Their bare arms were
folded across the chest, showing long taper fingers, which appeared
longer on account of the long-trained nails. They sat silent, and had
their eyes cast down.
The children were running about entirely naked, except one little
girl of six or seven years old, who wore a golden fig leaf, supported
by a heavy chain around the hips. This child was more grave than
the rest, and stoody durmg the interview, with one finger in her littie
mouth, gazing at us strangers in wonder.
The Phya-pi-pat-kosa, stood erect on the dais, and shaking us
cordially by the hand, requested us to be seated on its edge along
with him. Ramon lay extended on his knees and elbows, salaming
accoi'ding to custom. The son of our host, a young man of twenty-
two, was kneeling in the court, which was lower than the apartment,
supporting his arms and chest against the floor of the hall.
Tea was immediately brought, and the minister stated, he wished
me to see his niece, whom he had caused to be brought in from the
country for this purpose. She was spoken to, and my attention was
called to a female of fair proportions, whose arm and hand a statuary
might consider as a model, who, in a squat position, managed to move
along the matted floor. Her features were regular, and countenance
attractive, but a glance showed me that her situation scarcely admitted
relief at my hands. She was totally blind, and had been so for nine
years. I presumed her age to be twenty, but her uncle assured me
it was twenty-seven. I asked him if she were married, whereupon
he laughed heartily, saying, " Who would marry a woman without
eyes?'' which caused a general titter among all the ladies. I ex
plained to the patient, that an operation might be successful in re
storing sight, but it was doubtful; and, at any rate, my short stay
would prevent me from making any attempt: I, therefore, recommended
her to take the advice, of Dr. Bradley, a resident American mission
ary at Bankok, who is daily employed in acts of benevolent useful
ness in behalf of the Siamese. There was a sigh of disappointment,
but not a word escaped the patient.
The minister next brought forward a child of two years old, la
boring under curvature of the spine, and inquired whether the de
formity could be relieved. As in the first case, I referred him to
Dr. Bradley. He appeared to be very fond of his children, to judge
from the manner in which he caressed them.

VISIT TO THE PHYA-SI-PI-PAT. 307
Ramon, having witnessed some of my phrenological examinations,
related what he had seen, to the Phya-pi-pat-kosa, whose curiosity was
awakened, and he requested me to state the character of his son. In
this instance, the father declared my remarks vvere correct; and
when I expressed an opinion that the young man was fond of female
society, the ladies shouted in approbation.
The interview lasted nearly two hours, during which tea, fruit,
sweetmeats and cigars were served/ I remarked, that it was con
sidered indecorous and impolite to smoke tobacco in the presence of
ladies. " With us," replied the gay minister, "on the contrary, it
is the sign of friendship, for your enemy will never allow you to
smoke in his face.'^' We now took leave of the " big officer," who
shook us most socially by the haqd, and invited us to repeat our
visit. /The ladies of the better ranks are not actually excluded from sight, '
but strangers are very rarely permitted to see them. They are
much more comely and of a lighter complexion than those common
ly met with abroad.
We returned by the same route we had come, Ramon all the way
lauding the minister for his goodness, wealth and wisdom.
In the afternoon we made a visit to the Phya-si-pi-pat, who is
acting for his brother, the P'hra Klang, or minister of foreign af
fairs, now absent at Chantibun.
Just at sunset, we landed from our several boats near the house
of the first minister, where the band had been stationed to receive
us. Along the narrow street as far as the house, there was a crowd
of Siamese squatting and gazing upon us in wonder, as we marched
on preceded by the music./ We found the court yard quite as
crowded as the street. From it we were conducted into a lofty and
extensive hall, two sides of which were a series of doors, opening
upon surrounding verandas. On the right was a partition, or screen,
covered with Chinese paintings, and Siamese arms; and to the left
was a table, handsomely spread in the European Style with fruits,
sweetmeats and wines. Along the wall, in front of us, were three
dais covered with Persian rugs, and there was a carpet on the
floor. The pillars supporting the roof resembled polished marble,
but were of wood covered with chunam/ The Phya-si-pi-pat re
clined on the first dais. He was a fat mah, of about fifty, in a sarong
of silk. A square pillow of crimson silk, embroidered in gold, sup
ported his right side; and the right arm was extended straight over
the edge of the dais, while the left hand grasped the sole of the right

308 VISIT TO THE PHYA-SI-PI-PAT.
foot, which was turned upwards. The left leg was sufficiently ben
to allow the sole to rest upon t;he rug. In front of him, on the dais
were a large bowl of water with a cup floating in it, a spittoon, an
arecanut and a chunam box, all of gold, and all surmounted by coni
cal covers of crimson paper, figured with gold, together with a gold
enamelled tea-kettle, China tea-pot, and gold quivers for cigars, the
distinguishing badges and patents of his nobility. A sword-bearer
knelt upon his left, bearing a two-handed sword, cased in a crimson
velvet scabbard, the hilt of which was set with brilliants; and be
side him crouched a fan bearer, exercising the functions of his office.
On the next dais was the Phya-pi-pat-kosa, and next to him,
another officer of less rank, both attired, and surrounded by the in
signia of their respective ranks, agreeing, however, in character with
those of the Phya-si-pi-pat.
The hall was illuminated by lamps suspended from the walls and
ceiling, reflected by numberless small mirrors. Our band was still
playing, a crowd of naked spectators stood outside, and about the
floor crouched the numerous menials and inferior officers of the
ministers. When we had entered a few steps, the Phya-si-pi-pat
stood up on the dais, and shook us individually by the hand, and
motioned us to seats at the table. As we sat down the music ceased,
and the minister resumed his eastern position. A few observations,
such as are common on such occasions, were made by Mr. Roberts
and the Phya-si-pi-pat.
Ih a few minutes /tea and coffee Vvere served, and then wine.
Mr. Roberts propoSijd, "The health of the king of Siam and his
ministers," which was drunk standing, and followed by three cheers,
no doubt much to the astonishment of the worthy natives present.
Immediately afterwards he gave, "The President of the United
States," which was drunk with two cheers; which was universally
disapproved of by the officers, because it looked like yielding a de
gree of rank, and had the toast been distinctly heard, I doubt whe
ther it would not have received a third cheer. After the wine, co
coanuts with the tops off, containing parched nuts, which add much to
the flavor of the milk, and obviate the unpleasant effect which this
beverage occasionally has upon the health, were served.
In a short time the company was scattered through the hall in
groups, viewing whatever struck them worthy of adrairation, or con
versing with the officers on there several dais. My friend, the Phya-
pi-pat-kosa, recognised me by many smiles, and sent me a cup of
tea from his own tea-kettle. He asked many questions relative to

BORROWING A THIRTY-TWO POUNDER. 309
health, &c., and complained of pains in his knees, which were hard.
The knees and elbows of the Siamese, from constant kneelin", and
crouching in the presence of superiors, are hardened like the soles of
those persons who go habitually barefoot. This I found to be very
common among these people of all grades. When we took leave, he
shook my hand in both his; and then, in spite of my teeth, pushed his
thumb and finger into my mouth, and there deposited a bolus of
spices of most agreeable flavor.
The Phya-si-pi-pat was curious in examining the officers' swords,
and by way of contrast exhibited his sword of state; but he appeared
much disturbed when one of the officers drew the blade half out of
the scabbard, it being contrary to Siamese etiquette, to have naked
weapons in the presence of nobles or great men.
When the Prince Momfanoi was on board, he was very particular
in the examination of our great guns. In the course of the evening,
the Phya-si-pi-pat requested that one of them might be sent up to
Bankok to look at, as they wished to mount some of their own after
the sarae manner. The weight of a thirty-two pounder was, in their
opinion, not the slightest objection to granting the request; and
though a model was promised, which was afterwards sent, they did
not seem to think us obliging.
As a mark of attention, and to testify their gratification upon the
occasion of our visit, the minister proposed to entertain us with a
dramatic exhibition, and requested to know whether we would like
a long or a short play; one of an hour, or one of twp, three or four
hours; and we pronounced in favor of the long one./
At the end of two hours we took leave; and, issuing out of the
house, we found an open way, from the door to the street, through a
crowd of squatting Siamese, lighted by torches of sweet-smelling
agila wood. Similar torches were held, a few feet apart, all the
way to the boats, showing a novel scene, by their dappling light.
/a large present of fruit followed us home./

3l0

AMERICAN MISSIONARIES.

CHAPTER XXXI.
SKETCHES IN SIAM.
ApKl, 1836.
Among the most agreeable hours spent at Bankok, were those
passed in the society of the American missionaries.
Whatever may be our opinions relative to the soundness of the
policy under which they act, we cannot fail to accord to them, admi
ration for their devotedness to the high cause which excites and
cheers them in their philanthropic labors. We see them among a
race of beings, whose degraded state of knowledge and morals, and
whose wretchedness and poverty call hourly for their sympathy and
charitable exertions; while the strong passion, which swells every
brej.st, remains controlled in their bosoms — I mean the affection
which binds every individual to his own home and hearth-stone — de
prived of friends, of congenial society, of many comforts and all the
luxuries of life; we behold them, still cheerfully toiling in a cause,
the success of which appears to be almost hopeless — at least, the
most sanguine now living, cannot expect to see it. While they con
tend against all these chilling circumstances, they are surveyed
and, watched b/ the eyes of individuals whose interests are op
posed to the diffusion of knowledge, and the advancement of virtue
and religion. And those persons, often their own countrymen, are
found in the ranks of the ignorant political rulers, encouraging them
to persist in their ignorance, and even to curtail the few privileges
the missionaries may have already gained. I am not aware that this
is the case in Siam, but in other parts of the world this is generally
true. They misconstrue their motives, and most maliciously distort
and misrepresent their acts and words. Those persons certainly
have not calmly investigated the subject, or they cannot be aware
that they are standing in their own light. They will not believe that
the march of the christian religion will always be followed closely
by intelligence and increase of commerce.

AMERICAN MISSIONARIES. 31]
However my opinions may be swayed by phdanthropic views, with
out discussing the question of its intrinsic necessity on the score of
religion, I would encourage the christianization of all Asia, Polyne
sia, and indeed of all the world, because I think it is sound policy.
By such a change, commerce must be benefitted. Our merchants,
upon a candid investigation of tiie subject, will probably find their
interest in doing all they can in behalf of those pious individuals,
who sacrifice the honors of this world, in earning a glorious crown in
the next, by attempting to put misbelievers in the path to sound mo
rals, true religion and rational liberty.
To what extent our trade in the East would be augmented by the
conversion to Christianity of Siam, Cochin-China, China and Japan,
it is impossible to conjecture. When the half naked millions of
Asia shall attain Christianity, and with it, all the new wants which
the necessary change in their social condition will produce, the soil
of our country, as rich and vast as it is, will be scarcely adequate to
supply them. A new and extensive mart must be opened for our
manufactures of all kinds, and even the literary will find an increased
demand for their labors. Hundreds of ships will spread their sails
to the eastward of the cape of Good Hope, destined for the shores of
Asia and the isles scattered in the southern ocean, and commerce
will pour her wealth, gathered in the old world, into the lap of the
new. Dr. Bradley assisted by his wife, dispenses medical advice and me
dicines daily, to at least one hundred afflicted Siamese. I spent se
veral hours at their dispensary, and left with feelings of admiration
and respect for individuals, who appeared, more in the light of minis
tering angels of beneficence, than in that of human beings. When
I contrasted their present situation with what it must have been in
the United States;' and viewed their active and incessant labors in
behalf of objects more calculated to excite disgust than call forth ac
tive pity; the risk of health and life they were daily incurring, I could
not help suspecting them of acting under the influence of an enthusias
tic zeal, tending rather to retard than advance their cause. Their ef
forts are too strong, and must defeat themselves: a more leisurely and
cautious manner, for the first few years at least, ought to be pursued.
Of the truth of this opinion they are inclined to be convinced, but
say, " How can we thrust away from us the afflicted who hourly pe
tition our relieving charity?" They are aware that thpir own unac-
climated constitutions are incapable of long enduring so much fatigue:
they know from experience, that over zeal has been a rock upon which

312
many bright prospects of the cause have been wrecked: they know
that steady perseverance is likely to achieve more in this, as in every
thing else, than interrupted efforts, however strong; yet they pursue
the impolitic course, unable to repress the ardent desire of doing good,
notwithstanding that "doing good, every day," is contrary to the laws
of the land.
I accompanied Dr. and Mrs. Bradley from their humble dwelling,
where they have all the little comforts which circumstances allow, to
the dispensary, a small floating house on the river. The voyage was
made in a sampan of the commonest kind, without shelter from a
blazing sun.
We found nearly a hundred individuals crowded under the little
veranda, and many, still in their boats, awaiting the doctor's arrival.
Among the nuraber was a considerable proportion of talapoins in their
yellow robes, and I thought all manifested pleasure at our coming.
The males on the veranda were separated, but a stranger would
be unable to distinguish the sexes by their features, and, being aware
of this, the doctor, very kindly said, "These are the females, and
those the males." The front of the dispensary is divided into two
apartments, one occupied by Mrs. Bradley, who dispenses prescrip
tions to the women, and, where the treatment of a case is continuous,
manages the detail, thus leaving Dr. Bradley more time to bestow on
new, or more urgent cases. In every instance, the prescription is
written on a slip of paper, upon the reverse of which is a text from
Scripture, in Siamese, and the patients have acquired the notion, that
this is an important part of the treatment. Whether this plan of
disseminating the Scriptures be a feasible one I question; seeming
very much like exhibiting chippings from the sculptor's chisel as a
sample of a fine piece of statuary, or a brick ae a specimen of archi
tectural structure. Besides, it may lead to the impression that these
texts are spells essential to the cure of disease.
I spent several hours here, and saw many specimens of disease,
which I had never before seen: A variety of the affections of the skin
which are scarcely known in our country. The diseases of the eye
are very numerous, which may possibly arise from constant exposure
in the low sampans, to the reflected glare of the sun from the surface
of the river. Ulcers of various kinds abound.
I took leave of this scene, and left my best wishes for the philan
thropic individuals who are instruments of almost incalculable cha
rity. On Sunday, the Rev. Charles Robinson delivers a sermon at the

MISSIONARIES IN BANKOK. 313
dispensary, in Siamese, which is attended by from one hundred to a
hundred and twenty.
On one occasion, I passed neariy a day at the residence of the Rev.
Messrs. C. Robinson, and W. Dean, and feel indebted to them for
their kindness and attention in showing me many things of interest,
as well as for giving me much information. Mrs. Robinson will long
be reraerabered by us with pleasure.
Mr. Dean devotes every afternoon to prescribing for from forty to
fifty Chinese patients, many of whom are sailors from the junks
trading here, and on Sundays he preaches to a small congregation, in
Chinese. He has charge of the Chinese church, consistino' of five
members, three of whom he baptized. Besides the afternoon patients,
he dispenses medicines to about a hundred individuals during the
week. Professing but a limited knowledge of the healino- art, his
most difficult cases are referred to Dr. Bradley.
An idea of the extensive field of his labors among the Chinese in
Bankok may be derived from the following facts. The Chinese popu
lation of the city, in 1836, was 400,000; and from thirty to eighty
junks, with crews numbering from twenty to one hundred and thirty
each, annually visit the port, and remain from February till May or
June, arriving in one monsoon and returning in the other. They are
chiefly from the island of Hainan, Canton, and Leang-Hae; but
their crews, as vpell as a raajority of the Chinese residents of the city,
speak the dialect Teo-chew, their native place, a subdivision of the
Canton province.
Those who have labored here araong the Chinese, as missionaries,
are Gutzlaff, Tomlin, Abeel, Johnson, and Dean; the latter arrived
in July, 1835, and is the only one now at Bankok.
Two or three schools have been begun here for Chinese children,
and one is now in operation; but there is much difficulty in originating
and sustaining thera, for the reason that the children of the China
men here have Siamese, Burman, Laos, and other country women for
mothers, whose prejudices are even stronger than those of the Chi
nese themselves.
The missionaries whose labors are exercised in behalf of the Si
amese are the Rev. T. R. Jones, the Rev. Charles Robinson, and Dr.
D. B. Bradley. Mr. Jones has prepared some tracts in Siamese, and
has commenced the translation of the sacred scriptures. He is, at
present, at Singapore, on account of the health of his family, but is
expected to return soon.
The residence of the missionaries was moved, soon after their ar-
40

314 MISSIONARIES INTBANKOK.
rival, to its present place, by the Siamese authorities, because, as it
was asserted, they were too near the residence of His Magnificent
Majesty, who once a year passed that way. Besides, the missiona
ries were doing good every day, and thereby obtaining too much
merit, which was contrary to law. His Magnificent Majesty, himself,
not being allowed to "do good " for more than ten days success
ively. The missionaries are not certain of permission to remain, for the
Siamese are suspicious, and confine them strictiy to the city. They
applied for leave to visit the ancient capital of Yut'hia, a hundred
miles up the river, but were denied. Dr. Bradley visited Chantibun,
and, on his return, made a chart, or plan of the river; while copying
it, his teacher constantly expressed apprehension of being detected
in the act, and thereby incur punishment. They have never had an
audience with the king, and the request of Mr. Roberts in their be
half was denied.
Araong other matters of interest showed to us by the missionaries
were several Siamese books. They consist of a long sheet, folded,
alternately, right and left, and some of them are ornamented with
paintings, very much after the fashion of illuminated manuscripts,
but far inferior in the style of execution. , The reader sits on the
ground, a la Turque, and unfolds the book before him.
Of the Roman Catholic missionaries I learned nothing.
Soon after sunrise, one morning, we entered our sampan with Ra
mon, and set off for the Bazaar. In our way along the river we met
a number of Talapoins, in small canoes, some of them containing two
or three, collecting alms. It strongly reminded me of the beggars I
have seen about the kitchen entrances of large hotels, receiving the
broken meats of the previous day. The priests of the great Guata
ma are a filthy race; often the robes upon their backs were not yel
low, as they should be, and we may truly say, ni perro, ni gato del
mismo color could possibly be found.
At this hour the scene on the river is not so busy as later in the
day. The Siamese find it raore agreeable, on account of the heat of
the'cliraate, to pass the night, or a great part of it, in visiting and
transacting business. The king usually holds his cabinet councUs
between sunset and midnight.
We turned into a canal, thronged with boats, among which our
gondoliers threaded their way with a skill that at once surprised and
pleased us. It is impossible to convey an idea of this singular scene.
We landed in front ofa wat, whose enamelled roof and gilded spire

THE B*AZAAR BV DAY. 315
were glittering in the morning sun. The architecture is peculiar;
particularly the roof, which, in form may be compared to three sad
dles, placed one on top of the other, diminishing, in size, from the
lowest one to the top. The effect is raore pleasing than one would
imagine, and, from the costliness of the structure, we inight infer that
religious feeling is very strong in the bosoms of the Siamese.
W^ passed over one of the high narrow bridges, resembling more
what we might expect to find in the wilds of the western world, than
a bridge in a metropolis numbering a population of half a million. It
consisted of a rough plank, only wide enough for one person to walk
upon, supported on lofty posts driven into each side of the stream.
In our excursions along the canals, we often passed under'similar
bridges, many of them fifteen or twenty feet above our heads.
After crossing the bridge, we found ourselves before a row of huts,
occupied by Chinese blacksmiths, who were seated beside their an
vils, at work; not, however, wielding the huge sledge, with brawny
arm, after the fashion of our own vulcans. Throughout the East, the
mechanics are seen seated' at their various labors. The carpenter,
the tailor, the blacksmith, and the votary of St. Crispin alike ply
their tools, seated on the ground. The feet of the carpenter are as
often employed, as a vice, in holding the wood he is working, as his
hands the plane.
Just at this spot there was a crowd of fishing boats, their bows
wedging into the shore, and a noisy assemblage of men and women
receiving into their baskets quantities of fine fish, all alive. The
scene was enlivened by loud exclamation and vituperation, aided by
the squalling of children and the barking of lank curs, that testified
their displeasure by snarling and growling wherever we appeared.
Why is it that fishermen and fishwomen, all over the world, are so
given to vociferation?
The walk we were in, along a canal, terminated in a street about
twenty feet wide, crossing at right angles, forming the bazaar, which
is at least a mile in length. It is paved with large square bricks,
which were now covered with slimy ooze. On either side were shops,
or stalls, five or six of one kind in a row, alternating with as many
more of a different description. Here were five or six tailor shops,
and next, as many stalls hung with fat pork; opposite were confec
tioners, and next them poulterers, the latter passing the time, seated
on the ground, picking the pin feathers from dead fowls, with twee
zers, making them look very clean, and much better than the plan
of singeing followed by our cooks. Next were vegetables and fruits;

316 THE BAZAAR BY *NIGHT.
and then, perhaps, shops filled with dried ducks, prepared for the u^
of Chinese seamen. The street was alive with people. Fishermen
with their kicking fish, and water-carriers with jars of water, slung
from the ends of a bamboo over the shoulders. The purchasers, with
their purchases and bags of cowries, all moving in heterogeneous
streams, mingling and changing every moment, as they advanced in
opposite directions. The hum of the multitude rose on the st^ll air,
and the curs barking at us, broke the monotony wherever we went.
Then there was the disgust of naked bodies, shining in greasy per
spiration, to detract from any thing like romance, with which the
imagination might have clothed the scene.
At intervals of two or three hundred yards, the thoroughfare was
partly interrupted by a sort of stage, eight or ten feet high, erected
in the middle of it, for the exhibition of dramatic spectacles.
Having seen the Bazaar by day, we also paid it a visit at night.
It was then much less crowded. Around the stages were knots of
individuals, enjoying puppet shows and a sort of diorama, exhibited
by Chinese. Then, too, the gambling-houses were open. In front
of them were spread tables, around which people were assembled,
venturing their cowries, fu-angs, and ticals, on the throw of the
dice, or turning of the cards, by the light of numerous copper lamps,
fed with cocoanut oil.
It is probable that similar scenes are witnessed in the towns of the
Celestial Empire; for we may suppose, from the great proportion of
Chinese in the city, that they have imposed their own manners and
customs upon the people, and something of their own style upon the
character of the architecture of Bankok.
On Sunday morning the Phya-si-pi-pat informed us, by an officer,
that, if it would be agreeable to us, we might, that evening, witness,
at his house, a Siamese play. At once adopting the maxim, a Borne
comme a Rome, the invitation was accepted.
About seven o'clock, P. M., we proceeded, as on the former occa
sion, and, following our band, marched from the landing, through a
crowd of naked, squatting natives, lighted by great torches, and en
tered a court-yard, filled with people in similar primitive costume.
We were conducted to a large apartment, the floor of which was
broken into three broad steps, and open upon a court, the front being
supported by highly polished chunamed pillars. On each of the
several broad steps of the flObr was a row of sofas and chairs, and,
on our right, when facing the court, reclined upon his dais the Phya-
.si-pi-pat, surrounded by all the pomp and circumstance of his high

SIAMESE THEATRICALS. 317
office. The ddis was placed near a small door, which opened into an
apartment tapestried with crimson silk. The silk curtain which
closed the door, and those which shut a small window, with gilded
trellis, by its side, were drawn back; and, though there was no lamp
within, we perceived, by the reflection of numerous lights suspended
in the hall, several females and children, dressed in silks and flash
ing in jewels, peeping upon the scene. One step below his father
reclined the son of the Phya-si-pi-pat.
The court below was covered with fine white matting, and except
a clear space in front, presented a mass of half naked human beings
on their hands and knees. On either side, at short distances apart,
arose lambent flames, which at first sight seemed to proceed from
entire barrels of oil; but on closer examination proved to be metal
pans, set upon cylinders of bamboo. On the left were about twenty
musicians, who began tlieir performance the moment we entered the
court. Their instruments were gongs, hautboys, and pieces of wood
about a foot long, which were struck together in time with the other
instruments, producing altogether a great deal raore sound than me
lody. The minister received us cordially, and, on taking our seats upon
the upper step on a level with hira, servants crawling on their hands
and knees, placed gold quivers of cigars and lighted tapers at our
feet. The representation ofa pantomimic drama, entitled the 'Angels '
now commenced. The plot seemed to be allegorical and illustrative
of sorae portion of Boudhist religious history.; The actors were
accompanied in their performance by the band, and a recitative in a
squeaking female voice and an occasional chorus, altogether enough
' to split the ears of the groundlings.'
The first scene presented two individuals in close red jackets, which
fitted the shape to the hips, where they were joined to short full skirts.
They wore masks, and conical caps terminating in a spire two feet
high, and all ornamented with a profusion of tinsel and paint. Be
sides, they had long metallic-looking nails; in short, they were repre
senting mongrel monkeys. Their first act on entering upon the stage,
from a door to the right, was to prostrate themselves before the Phya-
si-pi-pat and touch the ground with their heads. Then they enacted a
series of anticsin the slow time of the minuetjOccasionally throwing side
somersets rapidly, and again knocking heads. At last they sat down,
one on each side of the court, and were succeeded by twelve others,
much more gaudily dressed, but in a similar fashion. One half repre
sented ladies, and the other knights; and, if the drama has aily influ-

Jlo SIAMESE THEATRICALS.
ence upon taste in Siam, long finger nails are considered a mark of great
elegance among the beauties of the capital; for the actresses had theirs
elongated and turned backwards, by metal appendages, at least three
inches in length.
These knights and ladies ranged themselves in two lines, confront
ing each other, as in a contra-dance, and, in time to the slow music, as
sumed various attitudes, some of which were very graceful. They now
promenaded in circle, and then changed places, the knights touching
the ladies' hands, with due regard to their long nails, constantiy mani
festing by gesticulation, their all-consuming love, which, however, the
ladies were slow to accept. At the end of an hour, they took seats a
la Z'wrjMe on opposite sides of the stage, to give place to a gallant knight,
who, from the energy of his gesture, enacted the part of a challenger.
After he had raved his time upon the stage, the ladies and knights again
minueted for an hour, and again gave place. A lady now entered fol
lowed by a knight in a black mask, whose pursuit she was flying.
Whenever he approached, she screamed and very gracefully eluded his
grasp. They disappeared. The minuet of twelve was again per
formed, and, upon assuming their seats, a lighter female figure than any
which had yet appeared, and more gaudily attired, entered bearing be
tween her fingers a sparkling ball. She was the angel of light. The
black mask soon pursued her, but the sparkling ball had talismanic
powers, and he quailed before its flashing light, whenever he approached
too near. After essaying in vain against the powers of the talisman, the
black knight was encountered by the challenger. Both were armed
with short swords. After strutting and motioning defiance at each
other for half an hour, while the recitative became more squeaking, vo
ciferating and discordant than ever, and just as we thought their cou
rage had oozed away, they crossed their blades. They made terri
ble passes at each other, but both were too cunning at fence to be soon
overpowered. The challenger fell, and the black knight placed his
foot upon the breast of his foe; but he struggled again to his feet, and
overthrew the black mask, leaving the spectators to infer that virtue
finally triumphs over vice.
/The native musicians now brought their instruments in front of
us and perforraed several airs, which were repaid by as many from
our band. Their instruments are similar to those of the Javan game
lan which has been already described.
Half an hour after the commencement of the play the Phya-si-pi-
pat retired, offering us an apology, the necessity of visiting his Magni-

DELIVERY OF THE TREATY. 319
ficent Majesty. He had no sooner disappeared from amidst his golden
badges of nobility and office, than his son filled the place.
The only refreshraent offered besides cigars, during the entertain
ment, was water, served in basins of pure gold, and drunk frora cups
of the same metal.
We were heartily weary of the three hours' play, long before it
was concluded, and at the proper time gladly took leave, and re
turned as we had come, lighted by torches.
On descending into the court, Piadade inquired how I liked the
actresses. I thought they acted well, and sorae of us were not a
little surprised to be assured they were all males.
/Most of the wealthy Siamese nobles entertain a company and
a theatre in their own .houses, for their private amusement, similar to
that just described. /

CHAPTER XXX.

SKETCHES IN SIAM.

April, 1836.
The following morning, the officers were formed into a procession
headed by Mr. Roberts, two of them bearing a box, containing the
American copy of the treaty, and marched. to the river, distant about
a hundred yards, preceded by our band. At the place of embarka-
tio^/a canoe eighty feet long, rowed by thirty-four oars, both ends
curving upwards, awaited to receive it. A bright crimson silk ca
nopy, embroidered in gold, overhung the centre of the canoe, with
which all the ornaments of the vessel were in keeping. The rowers
wore the red livery of the king./
On reaching the margin of the river, Mr. Roberts took the treaty
in his hand, and, after holding it up above his head in token of re
spect, delivered it to a Siamese officer, the secretary of the P'hra
Klang. He also held it above his head, and then, shaded by a/royal

320 MAD ELEPHANT  SIA-YUt'hIA  HALL OF JUSTICE.
chat, a large white silk umbrella^ borne by a slave, passed it into the
boat, where it was received upoh an ornamented stand, and after co
vering it with a cone of gilt paper, it was placed beneath the canopy.
At this moment our band ceased, and that of the Siamese began to
play. The canoe shoved off, and we turned our steps homeward
to the merry tune of yanlfee doodle.
Immediately after the conclusion of this curious ceremony of de
livering the treaty, I set off, in company with several officers, for
Sia-Yut'hiaj/tiie residence of the king, situated on an island/about
two miles from our mission house, ancj/on the opposite side of-the ri-
yer.j' As we moved along, we saw several toys floating on the stream,
wfhich, as we were told, were offerings to the spirits of departed
friends. On landing outside of the wall, enclosing the palace and town, we
were'conducted to see a huge white elephant. He was dirty and
wild, and, from being yet untamed, is called the mad elephant. Each
of his legs was secured to a post driven into the ground, and he was
attended by three or four slaves. The irides were white.
We passed a gate, which was carefully closed after us, and we
found ourselves in a broad street of mean houses, in Sia-Yut'hia, the
capital city of the magnificent kingdom of Thai. We followed our
conductor, Ramon, and passed a second wall enclosing a number of
buildings, by no means nea!t in appearance. The principal one, si
tuated in the centre of an open area, is called the Hall of Justice,
and resembles an old store-house. The hall of justice is a roof of
tiles supported on stout columns of wood without walls. Horizontal
shutters of coarse matting, are so contrived that they may be made to
exclude the rays of the sun, as they are cast either on one side or the
other. The floor is raised about two feet above the ground, and was
covered with mats, and along its edge were ranged several brass ba
sins of water, with a drinking cup of the same metal floating in each.
In the enclosure in which the hall stands, there are a number of
mounted guns of heavy caliber, each one protected by a kind of
weather house.
The day was oppressively hot, and we found the hall of justice an
agreeable shelter from the sun. Here we met our friend Piadade,
and about a dozen Siamese. They examined us long and attentively;
and some of them were so curious that they actually laid their hands
on the uniforms of some of the officers.
Soon after our arrival, a considerable crowd of Siamese gathered
around the hall, and presently His Highness, Prince Momfanoi, ap-

PROCESSION OF ELEPHANTS  WHITE ELEPHANTS. 321
peared seated a la Turque, on a palanquin, consisting simply of a
platform between two poles, shaded by a silk awning supported by
four staves. As he approached, the crowd fell upon their elbows and
knees. He waved his hand and nodded familiarly to us as he passed,
but received tiie salaras of the prostrate hundreds without notice.
He was followed by his faithful Sap, bearing the golden tea-kettle,
and chunam-box, and a sword-beai-er. Although he continued on to
another enclosure, all that part of the crowd within the range of
the Prince's eye remained prostrate. I followed His Highness, and
found him seated on a rude dais in company with one or two nobles,
under a ruined roof of bamboo, and the wide-spreading branches of
a large tree, which afibrded them ample shade. He received us gaily,
sa)-ing, " This is a better place to sit than the king himself has got,
because we have a fresh cool breeze." He was in fine spirits, and
invited us to sit and take tea with him, and then a cigar.
Very soon a discordant screech of hautboys, announced the ap
proaching procession, which was kindly got up for the gratification of
those officers who were required to return on board ship, before the
presentation took place. The Prince laughed heartily, crying, " Go
see, go see!" which we readily obeyed, prompted as we were by our
curiosity. A band of a dozen, in red and green uniforms, their cheeks swelled
in musical effort, marched onward, closely followed by seven ele
phants. First, came a huge black, fourteen feet high, then a large
white, followed by another much smaller, and four spotted elephants
of ordinary size. Beside each one walked a keeper, and several
slaves bearing silver salvers, loaded witii pealed sugar cane and lus
cious bananas. The driver sat on the neck of each, in front of the
houdah, or saddle-cloth, which was gold. Broad hoops of gold em
braced each lusty leg, and jewelled rings glittered on the tusks of the
white elephants; and from the ears of all of them, were suspended
tails of beautifully white hair.
The pageant wheeled round and halted on one side of the hall of
justice. The slaves sat down their salvers before their respective
elephants, and we were- invited to admire and feed the animal^ the
possession of whieh, in the opinion of the Siamese, gives their king
pre-eminence above every other monarch in the East.
The small elephant is the beauty of her race. She has a soft
white skin, a beautiful chestnut-colored eye, and a most complaisant
manner of disposing of sugar-cane and bananas from the hand of the
41

322 SPOTTED ELEPHANTS  WAT-p'hrA-SI-RATANAT.
stranger. The other white elephant is a very much larger animal;
but the skin is of a yellowish hue. Both are supposed to be ani
mated by the transmigrated souls of Siamese monarchs.
The spotted elephants are all large. With the exception of the
ears and shoulders, which are speckled rather than spotted, their
color is dark and uniform. The forehead of each animal is painted
black, the outline of which is white, and traces the form of a head-
cloth. The careful keeping and strict attention bestowed upon these ele
phants, show how highly they are prized. The minute examination
and admiration of our party gave visible satisfaction to the keepers,
as well as to the crouching multitude around. When we turned
away, the procession was again formed, and marched off in the direc
tion it had come.
At the request of Piadade, we now followed him about a hundred
yards, and, passing through a gate, found ourselves in the Wat-P'hra-
si-ratanat, or great temple of the king. We were bewildered and
dazzled by the splendor of gilt obelisks and temples sparkling in the
sun. We stood under a broad corridor, surrounding the whole area,
the sides of which are certainly not less than one hundred yards long.
The pavement was chunamed, and shone like polished marble. The
walls were painted in numerous quaint figures, in bright colors, re
presenting events in the history of Guatama and the magnificent
kingdom of Thai. How much did these walls express, had we been
able to comprehend their language!
We were hurried to a great temple in the area. The walls were
cunningly inlaid with gems, and the roof and cornices were richly
gilt and enamelled. We ascended a half dozen steps upon the floor
of a magnificent portico. The door of ebony inlaid with ivory, stood
open; but a splendid screen hid the interior of the sanctuary. We
entered, and were not less dazzled with the view before us, than we
had been by that of the outside walls. The ceiling was lofty
and curiously carved. A large cut glass chandalier hung from its
centre, and many Chinese paintings and lamps were suspended
around the walls. A subdued light disclosed the great altar of
Boudha, not far from the middle of the temple. Its whole structure
is of a pyramidal form, and is about thirty feet high. Two or three
wax-tapers were burning at its base, and there was a rug spread be
fore them on the floor. A large lotus plant, at least five feet high,
of virgin gold, stood upon the left. Numerotis small figures of the
god surrounded the richly carved altar, which was surmounted by a

-SAORED LIBRARY. 323
figure of Boudha, two feet high, said to be cut out of a single eme-
ral(^ This idol has two brilliants, flashing light through the temple, in
place of eyes, which cost in Brazil $20,000. The value of the whole
god is inestimable. I doubted its genuineness, but Momfanoi assured
me he was positive that it was an emerald, and not a beryl^^s I sug
gested. We hastened from this temple to a second, smaller in size, desig
nated, I believe, as the queen's wa,t. In our walk to it, we passed
many small figures, scattered through the paved area, among beds of
flowers and lotus plants, representing elephants, horses, &c. The
wa.t is white, and of a very chaste architecture. Within are three
figures of Boudha, the past, present, and future, in white marble; one
seated behind and higher than the other. They were surrounded by
diamonds and gems of all kinds, suspended in festoons, in bunches,
and a variety of forms.
Between the two wats is the library of sacred books, called, in the
Bali language, Promodop. It is remarkable that in most religions,
the priests have shut up the spirit and letter of their faith in some
strange or forgotten tongue, and thereby adding to its mysteries,
which are always caught at by the vulgar. The exterior form of the
library resembles the numerous ' prachadis' or obelisks within the
area of the temple. An ascent of, two or three flights of stairs con
ducted us into a room about eighteen feet square. In the centre
stood a prachadi of ebony, inlaid with ivory and mother of pearl, of
the exact form of the exterior edifice containing it, and occupying
about one-third of the area of the room, the rest of which was covered
with a mat of fine silver, wrought of thin bars ab.out a quarter of an
inch wide. In tins beautiful casket repose the learned dogmas of
the false faith of millions. , .
From this we strolled, almost bewildered, amona'beds of flowers/
and prachadis, fifty in nuraber, each ornamented by carving, figures
of Boudha, and gilding. Aladin's lamp never called up any thing
comparable to the Wat-P'hra-si-ratanat, in gorgeous ornament, or
display of wealth in gold, in gems and in art. The greatest travel
lers among us declared its beauties exceeded any thing they had be
fore seen in any part of the world. The first glance was enough to
enchant one of his senses. I wandered through the labyrinth, which
is no doubt regular though cunningly planned, as one in a dream.
The merry brain of a poetic beggar in a state of intoxication might
possibly ima'gine something resembling it in character; but infinite
credulity, aided by the most vivid imagination, would scarcely believe

324 SIAMESE PRINCE AND PRINCESS,
#
m the existence of such a place, were it describf
no definite idea of the place an hour after I left it.

There is no one thing in it grand or imposing. It bears no im
press ofa master genius; yet, there is nothing mean, or inelegant, or
untasteful. There are paintings by the best masters of the Chinese
school sjtthere are beds of flowers; pools in stone basins, upon which
floats the sacred lotus; gems of all kinds, and of great price; gold in
abundance; carving and inlaid work of ebony, and ivory, and tor
toise shell; marble; — the impression of a chaos of elegancies rests upon
my mind.
To have an idea of this temple it must be seen, but to comprehend
its details one should live in it a month. It must be borne in mind,
the Siamese are under the belief that their happiness in the next
world will be in proportion to the honors they do their god in this,
and that this temple is the labor of successive monarchs, bigoted and
zealous in their faith, who expended all their talents, and all the na
tion's gold in its construction. y
In our last 'walk round the corridor we met a /oung prince of
about fourteen. A rich sarong girded his loins, smd th^rest of his
body was almost hidden under jewels; anklets and bracelets of gems
surrounded his limbs, and chains of gold, curiously wrought, hung
round his neck in profusion. A princess of fewer years accompa
nied him. She wore a chased fig leaf of gold, and stood, like mother
Eve, all naked, but not alone/ The complexions of these two indi
viduals were much lighter than those of the numerous male and fe
male servants in their train. They were the fairies of the scene.
They stopped to gratify their curiosity by gazing at us, and we imi
tated them, and returned the compliment. We here received a
message from His Magnificent Majesty, expressing his good will to
us^and all Americans, and a wish that we would examine and look
at every thing freely, and without constraint.
We took leave of the temple, fully impressed that it is well worth
seeing, but not worth a voyage from Europe or the United States to
see; and, after a few minutes' conversation with the Prince, who had
been all the while sitting in the shade with his noble friends, re
turned to our place of sojourn. Our descriptions were cautiously re
ceived by those who did not accompany us, but they afterwards de
clared them to be far short of the truth. For the sake of our veracity,
I hope the reader will bear this in mind.
Commodore Kennedy was taken seriously indispoied, and we
learned, with regret, that the dreadful diseas^, Asiatic cholera, had

RETURN TO PAKNAM  THE GOVERNOR. 325
appeared on board ship, and that a seaman, Daniel K. Thomas, had
fallen the first victim. Under these circumstances, I bade farewell
to Bankok, and, early in the day of the 12th of April, set off with the
Commodore, in his gig, under a glaring sun, and without a breeze.
At four o'clock, P. M., we landed at Paknam, after a sultry pull
of seven hours. The governor was sulky, and seemed to think he
had already seen enough of us. I charged him with insolence, and
delivered him a letter from the acting P'hra Klang, enjoining him,
at the peril of his shoulders and head, to treat us with all the atten
tion and hospitality in his power. He at once apologized for the re
ception he had given us, on the plea of indisposition, and ordered
supper, which was mean in the extreme, consisting of rice, fried fish,
and boiled duck eggs, all cold.
The Commodore retired to his mat, overcome by the fatigues of
his journey and indisposition, and I, after insisting that a better sup
per should be furnished, sought repose on a bamboo settee, while His
Excellency sat doggedly smoking his long pipe. He is subject to
frequent corporeal castigation for his petty delinquencies, and re
ceives the paltry salary of eighty ticals ($53 33i cents) per annum;
so that he literally gets " as many kicks as half pence," though de
serving many more of the former.
Before sunset, a party of officers, that had left the city before us,
arrived. The servants now bustled about, and set a table, under the
superintendence of an interpreter, who professed to be well skilled
"in custom of Europe gentleman." He was an active, officious,
half caste Portuguese, in a dirty sarong, and a beggar withal. After
the table was spread, he reviewed it very carefully, and, to give the
whole a proper polish, as well as to enhance his own qualifications
in our eyes, commenced wiping out the tumblers with his naked fin
gers, which had been last applied to scratching his own sweaty skin.
He was reprimanded for this proceeding, showed much contrition
for his error, and retrieved himself, gathered from the floor pieces of
waste paper, which had enveloped tobacco or cigars, and began anew
to clean the soiled glasses. In spite of disgust, we could not but
laugh at his notion of " custom of Europe gentleman."
We had fallen very much in the estimation of the people of Pak
nam, and even the servants were disposed to be disrespectful. A
young slave, on being directed to bring fire to light a cigar, flung the
inatch across the floor at my feet.
With these people a positive, and almost imperative manner is the
most successful. If intercourse be attempted, on an equal footing,
they become arrogant, and, consequently, insolent.

326 CHOLERA ON BOARD SHIP — ^THE KING OF LAGOR.
At daylight, next day, we left Paknam, and reached the ship at
ten o'clock, A. M., and, the same day, another party of officers set
out for the city.
Though a second individual had died of cholera, (William Wag
goner, marine,) it was very satisfactory to find the epidemic had
abated. Soon as it had made its appearance on board, the ship was
got under way, and kept close hauled upon a wind, and, her sides
being alternately offered to the breeze, was thus kept thoroughly
ventilated. Though all the cases on the list wore the type of cho
lera, cold shrivelled surface, with blue nails, no new case occurred,
nor did any one terminate fatally after the ship was under way. The
disease prevailed at Chantibun, epidemically, about a hundred miles
from the anchorage, and sporadically at Bankok. No cases occurred
on board of the Enterprise.

CHAPTER XXXI.
SKETCHES IN SIAM.
April, 1836.
On the 12th of April, Mr. Roberts had an interview with the ra
jah or king of Lagor, who had been appointed by His Magnificent
Majesty, to settle the important matter of affixing the regal seals to
the Siamese copy of the treaty exchanging, as well as to the certificate
of ratification.
The rajah is the monarch or rather viceroy of Lagor, a tributary
state to Siam, situated on the Malay Peninsula. The object of his
present visit to Bankok, was to assist at a funeral ceremony, which
took place eight days before our arrival. Six months ago the only
legitimate son of the king died; and, according to the Siamese cus
tom — and "old custom," with thera is as binding as law — the body
was embalmed, and recently committed to the funeral pile.* So im-
* The process of •embalming is fully described in Finlayson's " Mission to
Siam and Hu£." London, 1826.

ENTERTAINMENT ON BOARD OF THE KING's JUNK. 327
portant was this ceremony, that all the tributary princes and go
vernors of the empire were summoned on this occasion by his Magni
ficent Majesty.
On landing, Mr. Roberts was met by the king of Lagor, seated on
a palanquin, consisting ofa cushioned seat, borne on two poles, with
his bare legs hanging down on each side. He was followed by many
attendants, one of them bearing a large silk umbrella over his head.
So soon as the interpreter came up, the king offered an apology for
not inviting Mr. Roberts to his house, at the same time requesting
his company on board of his junk. His house was merely a bamboo
shed, and preferring to spend his time in his own country, he will not
build himself a palace, as he has been urged to do, because, so long
as he has none, he ever has a ready excuse for making brief visits.
He is short and fleshy, and possesses an agreeable countenance and
polite manners. He is sixty-one years of age, a talented minister
and the oldest courtier in Siam.
The sword of Mr. Taylor attracted his attention, and he requested
permission to examine it, and for the purpose put on his spectacles,^
He regretted that no business could be transacted that day, and
hoped, Mr. Roberts would not be angry for causing him so much un
necessary trouble.
While on board of the junk, tea was served in earthen pots, and
drunk from porcelain cups without saucers. A tea pot and cup
were placed before each person present, on a salver of pure gold,
set with precious stones./ Water basins and cups, chunam box and
spittooqs of fine gold, were borne on salvers of the same metal.
Fruit and confectionary were presented on salvers six feet in cir
cumference, with pedestals two feet high, of richly embossed silver.
Silver spoons and forks were on the several dishes from which
they were expected to help themselves, without using a separate
plate. The king was very polite, and often helped his guests with
his o'wn hands./
At eight o'clock the following morning, Mr. Roberts, accompanied
by Mr. Taylor, again waited on the Rajah on board his junk. They
were received by the Rajah's eldest son, a young man of twenty-two,
who entertained them with tea, eggs, &c., in the sarae style as on
the preceding day. The Rajah soon made his appearance, and stated
that the royal seal of Siam could be affixed only to the certificate of
ratification. Mr. Roberts replied, that the king in the preamble, had
promised to affix his seal to the articles of the treaty, and he would
therefore unquestionably do so; and that it was indispensably neces-

328 SIAMESE CURIOSITY — ETIQUETTE.
sary to the certificate; for the treaty could not be considered as rati
fied without it. After some discussion, the Rajah unwillingly
yielded the point, and declared it should be completed in accordance
with Mr. R — 's wishes.
One of the secretaries requested a list of the officers who had
visited the Wa,t-P'hra-si-ratanat a day or two previous, that it might
be entered on the archives of the government.
The curiosity excited by the officers among the Siamese was al
most unrestrainable. We were frequently felt of from head to foot,
and to-day the Rajah had his hands in Mr. Taylor's pockets, while, at
the same time, his son had rolled up his pantaloons to feel of his
boot-leg. /The Rajah, his son and two grand-children, wore, round
their waists, besides the sarong, cream-coloured crape shawls of
beautiful texture. The Siamese, like the Chinese, wear the finger
nails very long, and the ladies have them sometimes tipped with
silver./ About eleven o'clock, Momfanoi, accompanied by another prince
and a medical practitioner, on their way to visit his priestly brother,
who was unwell, appeared on board. The Rajah left his seat, and
knelt upon the deck during the visit, and Momfanoi assumed the va
cated place. The prince was pleased to say, on this occasion, that
the swords, the genuineness of which had been doubted at first, as he
remarked, only by " small officers," however, had been tested by the
king's assayer, and were pronounced to be good gold. This doubt had
arisen from an appearance of verdigris at a point in the brazing, and
from their light color. The Siamese use no alloy in their manufactured
gold, which is very fine and ofa very deep color, almost orange. / The
prince who accompanied Momfanoi, though on terras of intimacy and
in the boat sitting on the same seat with him, so soon as he got on
board the junk, made his obeisance in form, and took a seat a little
above the Rajah. I The costume of both was simple, but costly. The
under garment vras of purple silk with a highly embroidered edge,
over which was an exquisite scarf. When they took leave, the Ra
jah resumed his seat.
At one o'clock, P. M., ^dinner consisting of soups, curries, cut
lets, ducks, chickens and pork, with fruit and sweatmeats, was
served un in gold and silver. There were twenty-six dishes for
three persons, and no fewer than fifty -four gold vessels were used in
the entertainment/ There was no ostentation or seeming attempt at
display; all appeared to be a matter of every day occurrence. The
hospitable old Rajah forced upon the plates of his guests, litchis, from

MEASUREMENT OF THE MARIA THERESA. 329
China and ' Romania,' a fruit resembling a date. He sat quietly the
while chewing his betel, but occasionally got upon the table, that he
might the raore readily assist and point out to his guests those arti
cles he hiraself liked most. While arranging the dishes, the ser
vants did not hesitate to mount the table and walk about upon the
cloth. Before dinner was over, Momfanoi again visited the junk,
when the same ceremonies as on his first visit were enacted; and
after his departure the Rajah again took his seat.
At the end of nine hours the certificate of ratification, in Siaraese,
Chinese, Portuguese and English, was ready to be appended to the
treaty. The sarae labor would have been perforraed in the United
States, or Europe, in one-third of the time.
On the same evening Mr. Roberts waited on the acting P'hra Klang,
to discuss a difficulty which had arisen, under the third article of the
treaty, relative to the measurement of the brig Maria Theresa. Mr.
Roberts stated that the officers of the government had measured from
outside to outside of the vessel, instead of the deck. The P'hra Klang
insisted that such was the manner of measuring both Siamese and Chi
nese junks, thej,decks of which extend between the timbers. Mr.
Roberts remarked, that the treaty had reference only to Araerican
built vessels. The P'hra Klang replied, it was, "an old custom, and
therefore could not be altered." Mr. Roberts observed, then he
should recommend the captain to protest at home against the viola
tion of the treaty, which would be referred' to the government at
Washington, and result in an unpleasant controversy between the two
countries. But as nothing could be decided without reference to the
king, Mr. Roberts took leave and visited him on another occasion.
The minister appeared to be inflexible. Mr. Roberts then stated,
that unless American vessels were measured in conformity to the third
article of the treaty, it would become his duty, to make it known forth
with to the government of the United States, and added, that the Cap
tain of the Maria Theresa would certainly protest against such de
parture from the treaty. During the day the brig had been measured,
but Mr. Roberts had not been informed of it until after this discussion.
The captain and supercargo were now sent for, and stated, the ves
sel had been measured, by taking half her length, and at that point,
to ascertain her breadth of beam. The deck was there measured
across from one water-way seam to the other, entirely oDjiitting the
water-ways, and taking in only a part of the gunwale, which mode
was so favorable as to lessen the duties in the amount 170 tica.ls.
The P'hra Klang asked whether they were satisfied with the mode
42 ^

330 AUDIENCE WITH THE KING OF SIAM.
of measurement. They replied, " Entirely so." " Then," said the
P'hra Klang, "I am glad all. difficulties have been surmounted; this
shall be the precedent for measuring all American vessels in fu
ture." The sixteenth of April had been appointed, four or five days pre
viously, for admitting the American Embassy to an audience with
the king. The day was oppressively hot, the thermometer in an airy
apartment, standing at 98° F. It was calm, and not a breath ruffled
the tranquil bosom of the river. It was like a stream of molten gold,
stirred only by numerous gondolas, skimming with feathery light
ness over its bright surface. Many had been called forth to view the
passing procession, and many crowded the verandas of the floating
houses, though no " Morning Herald," or " Evening Post," circulates
the news through this vast population; they seemed to be aware of
the event from instinct.
At nine o'clock, accompanied by twenty-two officers from the
squadron, in full dress, and the master and supercargo of the Maria
Theresa, Mr. Roberts embarked in three gondolas, each rowed by
thirty oars. Though permission had been granted for the gentlemen
of the Maria Theresa, the request of Mr. Roberts in behalf of the
American missionaries was refused, on the ground that it was not
according to Siamese custom.
The boats proceeded at a rapid rate, our band making the still air
resound with " Hail Columbia," and we all wondered at the crowds
of spectators who awaited our landing. Orderlies armed with rat
tans and bamboos, which were not spared on the naked backs of the
Siamese, were constantly active in making way for the procession.
On entering the first gate, they found a number of fleet ponies,
caparisoned in the eastern style, and each attended by two grooms.
The scene was as novel to the animals as to the American officers;
and they testified their impatience by kicking their mettlesome heels
merrily among the crowd. Here the procession was joined by several
Arabs, Persians and Jews, in the rich costumes of their respective
countries. After some little delay, arising from selecting horses,
the company was mounted, the short stirrups bringing the knees
almost to the chin, and made way through the multitude to the second
gate, where the ofiicers left their swords, it being contrary to eti
quette to appear armed in the presence of Siamese royalty.
They were/received in the Hall of Justiceray the Phya-pi-pat-kosa,
who was, as -usual, full of life and convefsation. Water, betel and
cigars were offered. While waiting for the king to signify his readi-

AUDIENCE CHAMBER. 331
ness to receive them, they found time to discover a large green snake
coiling itself araong the tiles of the Hall, over their heads. Lizards
and ge-kos were numerous. The Siamese expressed their astonish
ment that such trifles should attract attention; habit makes men in
different to the most loathsome objects.
At the second gate,' files of soldiers encumbered with uniforms of
red and green, and arms, which they could scarcely manage, amount
ing to several thousands, lined the various avenues^ The bayonets
were fixed with the scabbards upon thera. The artillery were arraed
with sheathed broad-swords, and stood with the hand upon the hilt,
ready to draw. /Pikeraen and clubraeiyalso appeared in the military
array. Whoever has seen at any large theatre, a grand army, badly
drilled, may imagine the Siamese troops, and conceive what genuine
" food for powder," they would make before a handful of disciplined
troops. At this gate the band was compelled to await the return of the em
bassy. , I
At the Hall of Justice, the/elephants were paraded^s on a former
occasion. The crowd was' great, but whenever they encroached
beyond bounds, they were at once severely repulsed by the rattan.
At the end of a half hour, the procession again moved forward
through two other gates. The number of troops was here much aug
mented, and near the palace, was a body armed with shields and
swords. On each side of the path, along which the procession ad
vanced, were ranged three hundred musicians in double files, screech
ing out on hautboys and beating on tom-toms, producing a most per-
cuslve monotony. Here the walks became broader. The eye now
and then caught a glimpse of a rich building, or spire glittering, in
the sun, through the foliage of the trees and shrubbery planted in the
enclosures. The exterior of the audience hall is not very remarkable. It has
three entrances on each side, the doorways are ornamented with
carving and Boudhist divinities-, and within stood screens, painted in
quaint devices, which conceal the interior.
The extent of the audience chamber is thirty-five by seventy feet.
The middle of the floor, about one-half of the whole width, is raised
eio-hteen inches above the rest, leaving a sort of lobby on each side,
equal to one-fourth of the breadth of the whole room, and extending
its entire length. A row of six pillars, three feet square, stood on
each edge of the middle floor. ^ The walls, ceiling, and pillars, were
hung with red gilt paper, and the floors were carpeted. Chandeliers

332 HIS MAGNIFICENT MAJESTY AND HIS MAGNIFICENT COURT.
and lamps of various patterns were suspended from the ceiling, and
numerous Chinese paintings and mirrors adorned the walls. From a
central point, the floor gently rises in an inclined plain up to the
throne, at the farthest end of the apartment. The throne itself is
about six feet high, and large enough for one man to sit upon cross-
legged; it is of gold, or richly gilt, and ornamented with diamonds
and other precious stones. Behind it is a piece of ornamental archi
tecture resembling an altar. A royal chat, an umbrella having five
tops, one above the other, and diminishing in size, shades the mo
narch's seat; and on each side, extending to the pillars, were six other
chats or chattahs, arranged so as to form an arc, which separates the
king and court.
Mr. Roberts and his companions entered the middle door of the
front of the hall, and, passing round the screen, found themselves in
the presence of his Magnificent Majesty, and the royal court of the
magnificent kingdom of Thai. /His Majesty, a plump fat man of
about fifty, sat like the god Bouoah, cross-legged upon his throne, en
veloped in a rich mantle of gold tissue, chewing betel, and squirting
saliva into a golden urn. /Numerous attendants prepared his betel,
and withlarge fans circulated the air about his Majestic Obesity, as
he sat in the pomp and circumstance of state.
Except a long space, eight feet wide, in front of the throne^ the
whole floor was covered by nobles, courtiers and magnates/of the
land, in silk and gold costurae, the fashion of which, was a long tight
jacket with short skirts, soraewhat resembling the cut of an ancient
coat of mail. There were several Arabs and Persians present, in
rich Cashmere shawl turbans, contrasting their splendid statures with
the squat forms of the Siamese; and their expressive countenances,
strongly marked by the jetty whisker jand antimony-shaded eye, out
shone them in intelligence. PerhapsAhree hundred individuals (/om-
posed this goodly company; every, <nie crouching upon his knees and
elbows, and the head bent upon the ground./ The hall admitted only
a subdued light. Jewels appeared to advantage, and the diamonds
and carbuncles on the king's person glittered and flashed all around
like miniature lightning.
It was particularly remarked by several officers, that, notwithstand
ing the stipulation that our officers should not appear, in the pre
sence, armed, being contrary to court etiquette, many of the Siamese
wore swords.
Such was the spectacle, hall and ijourt presented when the Ame
rican embassy passed the screen. There they removed their hats.

FORM OF CONVERSING WITH HIS MAGNIFICENT MAJESTY. 333
and, as they advanced to the open alley above mentioned, made three
bows according to previous agreement. At the lowest end of this
alley, at a great distance from the throne, they sat down upon the
carpet, carefully turning their feet behind, that His Magnificent Ma
jesty might not be shocked by the sight of those lowly, booted mem
bers; for they did not consent, like the Anglo-Bengal mission under
Mr. Burney, t^4eave their shoea, outside and appear barefoot, at
the risk of finding, as he did, that they had been stolen.
Previous to his audience with the king in 1833, when negotiating
the treaty which was now being concluded, Mr. Roberts positively
refused to take off his shoes to enter the presence, except on the con
dition, that he should keep on his hat. After a great deal of discus
sion, the condition was agreed to, and he was the first foreigner who,
with his shoes on, saw his Majesty of Siam.
After being seated in this novel, and therefore somewhat uncom
fortable position, they made three Siaraese salams, and the whole
court knocked their heads three times on the ground; and His Mag
nificent Majesty expressed his satisfaction by squirting saliva into
the golden spittoon, and renewing his quid of betel and arecanut.
In front of the mission were displayed a part of the presents
brought by Mr. Roberts, the whole being too bulky for such a pageant.
Immediately after the salams were performed, a low, murmuring
sound arose from behind the throne, which, the interpreter stated,
proceeded from the king's secretary, reading the list of presents
from the government of the United States to His Magnificent Ma
jesty. This over, the king addressed to Mr. Roberts several questions,
which were filtered through three interpreters or secretaries. One
crouched near the throne, and repeated, in a loW tone. His Majesty's
words to another, more than half way down the hall, who repeated
them in a still lower tone to Piadade, the interpreter, who, being
crouched near Mr. Roberts, whispered the sentence in his ear. The
replies were made through the same medium in the same manner.
When the king finishes his question, the secretary makes three
salaras and mentions the king's titles before he repeats to the second,
and he goes through the same ceremony to the third. The answer
begins with three salams from the interpreter, who repeats a string
of tides, " P'hra, Putie, Chucka, Ka, Rap, Si, Klau, Si, Kla, Mom,
Ka P'rah Putie Chow," Mr. Roberts, " Ka P'hra Rkchk, Tan, Krap,
Thun, Hie, Sap, Thi, Fa, La, Qng, Thule, P'hra, Bat;" then follows
the answer and three salams. As this form is invariable, it may be

334 CLOSING THE AUDIENCE.
readily conceived how slow and fatiguing intercourse with His Ma
jesty must be. Nor is one certain that his expressions or words are
faithfully conveyed to the " golden ear." Mr. Robert Hunter told
me, that some years ago, he had an audience with the king, who in
quired whether he was not then making a great deal of money, in
his business. Mr. Hunter replied, that at first he had done very
well, but for the past year he had lost a great deal. The interpre
ter conveyed the answer thus; " Mr. Hunter made money very fast,
the first years, but the last, he has not made so much." When Mr.
Hunter explained the difference he had made in the answer, the in
terpreter replied, that he dared not tell His Magnificent Majesty
any thing so unpleasant as to say, "Mr. Hunter had actually lost
money!" A similar incident occurred in the present audience. The king
stated that the Americans were on a footing with the English, which
Mr. Roberts denied; saying, that such was not the spirit of the treaty.
The secretary nearest the king translated the reply; that Mr. Roberts
admitted it, and was very much obliged fo His Majesty. Mr. Hun
ter, who was present, informed Mr. Roberts of the misinterpretation.
He repeated what he had first said, which was then correctly ren
dered. During the interview, the king inquired after the health of the
President, after that, of " all the great men of the United States,"
that of the crews of the Peacock and Enterprise; when they left
America; where they had been; what had been Mr. Roberts' stafe
of health in the three years he had been absent from Siam, &c.
/At the expiration of three quarters of an hour, a sharp metallic
sound was heard, and the audience was closed by drawing a curtain
of silk and gold across the hall, in front of the throne, hiding His
Majesty from view. The embassy then made three salams, and the
whole court bent their heads three times to the floor/
During the audience water and betel were served.' As the cham
ber was open, swallows flew in and out, and occasionally alighted on
the chandeliers.
The gentiemen were now conducted to see His Majesty's stud,
several elephants, and, last, the WHt, which has been already de
scribed.

DELIVERY OF THE SIAMESE TREATY. 335

CHAPTER XXXII.
SKETCHES IN SIAM.
April, 1836.
The eighteenth of April had been appointed for the delivery of
the copy of the treaty, ratified on the part of Siam. The barge of cere
mony in which we had come from the ship was ready to return.
Owing to a superstitious notion of the Siamese, that it would bring
misfortune upon any house, into which it should enter, after being
delivered into our hands, the treaty was to be received on board the
vessel, and not landed again, on any account, as such an het would be
the cause of distress in many minds.
About one o'clock P. M., Mr. Roberts was informed that the golden
barges of the king were in sight. Accompanied by the officers in full
dress and the band, he repaired to the vessel of ceremony, where he
found the Phya-pi-pat-kosa had already arrived. There were three
long barges, richly gilt, decorated with pennons, and each rowed by
one hundred oars. The curtains were of cloth of gold with scarlet
ground. That which bore the treaty led the van. The treaty was
in a box, covered with coarse yellow silk interwoven with gold. This
was placed on a silver dish, which rested on a salver with a high foot
of the same metal. Over it hung a scarlet canopy, itself shaded by
a royal chat. /The scarlet uniforms of the men, and the measured
stroke of thei/ hundred oars; the flaunting banners, the music of their
pipes and drums, and the glitter of gold and silver in the sun, formed
a pretty pageant, and indicated with what scrupulous ceremony every
thing is conducted at the Magnificent Court of Siany
As the casket was raised, the Siaraese band playefl plaintively and
soft. The Phya-pi-pat-kosa conveyed it to Mr. Roberts, at the sarae
time making a salam, to the royal seal, attached to the treaty. Mr.
Roberts received it, and, in respect to the king, raised it as high as

336 _ THE embassy LEAVES BANKOK.
his head, at the same time our band struck up " Hail Columbia."
He then placed it upon a stand which had been provided, and depo
sited it in the cabin of the junk of cereraony.
Speedy preparations were now made for leaving Bankok. Mr.
Roberts, in his private capacity, signed a memorial to the Chao Phya
P'hra Klang from the missionaries, praying that sufficient ground
might be allotted to them, whereon to erect a church and suitable
dwellings, with perraission to appropriate a part as a place of sepul
ture, the sarae having been granted to the Portuguese Roraan Catho
lics, Mussulraans, Chinese, and others.
Before leaving the house wherein the embassy was lodged, the
Phya-Ratsa-pa-vade paid a farewell visit, attended by a numerous
retinue. He expressed a strong feeling in behalf of Americans, and
requested Mr. Roberts to furnish American ship-masters coming to
Siam with letters to hira, that he raight, to the best of his abilities,
facilitate their business. He assured Mr. Roberts, that he was en
tirely disinterested, and would receive no compensation for any ser
vice he might render. To manifest his regard for Mr. Roberts, he
presented him with several toys for his children, but Mr. Roberts
would receive no present /or himself from any individual of the
court. In the evening Mr. Roberts paid a final visit to the Phya-si-pi-pat,
and met there the Phya-pi-pat-kosa. /He was entertained by a band
of amateur musicians, playing singl/and in concert, on instruments
resembling guitars, hautboys, &c. It was stated, that the Siamese
use more than a hundred different musical instruments. /
At midnight, the embassy being concluded, the junk of ceremony
¦weighed anchor, and was towed by three galleys, assisted by the ebb
tide. At noon, the next day, they anchored at Paknam; and at mid
night again got under way, and reached the ship about noon, on the
twentieth of April.*
Of the history of Siam, we have been able to collect very little in
formation. It appears to have early attracted the attention of com
mercial adventurers from Europe, and, as early as 1610, an English
factory was established at Bankok, by Captain Middleton, which sub
sisted for some years; but it appears to have been withdrawn subse
quent to 1623, when the King of Siam, and the English at Jacatra
* For a history of the events which transpired at Bankok, after my departure
from that city on the 1 2th of April, I am indebted to Mr. Roberts, and to Mr. Wm.
Rogers Taylor, of the Navy, who kindly placed theu' journals in my hands.

HISTORY OF SIAM. 337
were in correspondence. In 1662, the king expressed a desire that
the English should settle a factory in his dominions, though the Dutch
had at that time a large commercial intercourse with Siam, lading
their forty ships yearly. In 1 664, they quarrelled with the king, and
the next year, threw obstructions in the way of the English trade in
those seas, which was the chief object, that provoked their jealousy
and resentment. The settling of a factory was, under these cir
cumstances, deferred, although, it is stated, about this time the na
tion was in high favor with the King of Siam, who gave them a re
commendation to the Emperor of Japan, whose sister he had mar
ried. The subject was resumed in 1671, and the directors of the
English company approved the proposal of establishing a fiictory at
Bankok, if practicable. In 1674, the king renewed his overtures for
an English factory in his dominions, which was accordingly esta
blished in 1676, with the view of eventually opening a trade with
Japan. At the commencement of this intercourse great expectations
were formed of the tin trade of Siam, which was then almost exclu
sively in the hands of the Dutch; and it was thought that the Siam
trade generally would prove raore beneficial than even that of Japan.
That country was also considered capable of affording a market for-
a great quantity of broad-cloth; and the English agent at Bantam,
wrote to the King of Siam, recommending to hira the encouragement
of a broad-cloth trade, as necessary to the maintenance of an Eng
lish factory in his dominions. In 1679, it was discovered that Siam
itself consumed but littie broad-cloth; the sale of that comraodity de
pending on China and Japan; it was therefore decided the next year,
to recall the factory frora Bankok. But in 1683, and 1684, it was
resolved to re-establish it, the station being favorable to the prosecu
tion of a Japan trade, in which great hopes were indulged. Accord
ingly, Sir John Child, in 1685, addressed a letter to the Prime Mi
nister of Siam, explaining the difference between the Company's ser
vants and private traders, concerning which some misunderstandings
had arisen. Another letter was afterwards addressed to the king.
It was observed, that this prince was favorably disposed towards fo
reigners, and that Siam was a place of considerable comraerce; and
therefore, the Company's former losses were to be attributed to mis
management, and the malignity of the prime minister, Constantino
Faulcon. In 1687, an insurrection of the Macassars took place at Bankok,
by which the country was thrown into confusion, and the prime mi
nister narrowly escaped. The Macassarese were all destroyed. The
43

338 HISTORY OF SIAM.
Company's losses ai-ising out of the troubles, as appears from a letter
from the President of Fort St. George to the King of Siam, dated in
1687, amounted to £65,000, for which satisfaction was demanded,
or war would be declared. The next year there was a massacre at
Bankok. The Company were also advised that six French men-of-
war, with 1,400 soldiers had arrived to assist the king, and that Con-
¦stantine Faulcon had been made a Count of France.
In 1705, the Governor of Fort St. George addressed a letter to
the King of Siam, desiring a renewal of former friendship, which had
been interrupted by the ambitious minister. In 1712, the P'hra
Klang invited them to make a settlement, offering the same facilities
as had been granted to the Dutch. At this time, however, Siam ap
pears to have been in a state of internal disorder, and to have con
tinued so for many years afterwards.*
In 1822, the Anglo-Bengal government despatched a mission to,
Bankok, under Mr. Crawfurd, accounts of which were published by
him, and by Mr. Finlayson, both of whieh have already been referred
to. Mr. Crawfurd formed a treaty of amity and commerce, which is
probably advantageous to English trade. In 1833, the government
of the United States sent an agent to the capital of Siam, who suc
ceeded in negotiating a treaty, which was ratified by both govern
ments, and exchanged in April, 1836.
As early as 1672, the Siamese evinced a very friendly disposition
towards the French, and particularly towards Louis XIV., which is
attributed to the labors of some French missionaries who visited Ban
kok about that time.
At this period, a Greek, or, some say, an Italian adventurer of
restless and ambitious spirit, named Constantino Faulcon, had so
crept into the sovereign's favor as to be appointed P'hra Klang. For
getting hiraself in his prosperity, the minister aspired to wear the
crown, and circumstances seemed to countenance a hope of his suc
cess. Opportunity brings out the scoundrel: many a villain has pro
bably died with a, reputation for virtue, simply because he has never
been lured to vice by circumstances, offering an easy accomplish
ment of his wishes for wealth and aggrandizement. The Prince w^
weak, valetudinary, and without posterity, and his minister ruled
him, as well as hie people, despotically. He formed a project for
succeeding to the crown, and, it appears, he afterwards treated of
dethroning his beoefactor. For the execution of his plan, he fancied
* Asiatic Journal for 1822,

HISTORY OF SIAM. 339
he could make use of the French, and, in 1684, sent ambassadors to
France, offering to the monarch the alliance of his master, and to
the French merchants the ports of Siam.
The haughty genius of Louis XIV. drew advantages from this em
bassy. His flatterers persuaded him that his glory was so universal
that it attracted to hira the homage of the East. He despatched a
squadron, with Jesuits and merchants, and a treaty was concluded
between the two kings, the French ambassadors acting under the in
struction of Father Tachard. The company anticipated great ad
vantages from their establishment; and their hopes were not without
foundation. In the sixteenth century, numbers of ships visited the roads of
Siam, from eastern Asia, when agriculture, mining, and manufactur
ing flourished. Soon afterwards, despotism grew to its full height,
and, consequently, the affairs of the kingdom fell into confusion and
languor. In this condition of decay, the French found the country
on their arrival; it was very poor, without arts, and subject to a des
pot. The littie costly merchandise used in the court, and in the
houses of the opulent, was from Japan; the Siamese had taken the
manufactures of that country into exclusive favor, and maintained a
high respect for the Japanese.
It was difficult to change their opinions in this- respect, however ne
cessary it was to do so to effect the sale of French goods. If any thing
were likely to bring about such a change, it was preaching tbe chris
tian doctrines, which the missionaries had done with some success;
but the Jesuits were too much attached to Faulcon, and abused their
favor at court; they became odious, and the odium fell upon the reli
gion itself. The people, and particularly the Talapoins, were shocked
that they should erect churches before there were converts enough
to require them.
The French had conceded to them the fort at the mouth of the
Meinam, and possessed many advantages, which, had they been pro
perly managed, might have led to many others. It was an opening
to the trade of Ava, Pegu, and Laos, but the company's factors and
dipcers, their troops and the Jesuits did not perceive it. Finally,
they became so closely connected with Faulcon, and, lending him
their aid, that, when the minister fell, just as he was to perpe
trate his designs, they were dragged to ruin, and the fortresses of
Bankok garrisoned by the French, were wrested from them by this
indolent and cowardly people.*
•EstablecimientosUItramarinos. Madrid, 1786.

340 treaty between the united states and
TREATY OF AMITY AND COMMERCE
Between His Majesty, the Magnificent King of Siam, and
the United States of America.
His Majesty, the Sovereign and Magnificent King in the city of
Sia-Yut'hia, has appointed the Chao Phaya P'hra-klang, one of the
first ministers of the state, to treat with Edmund Roberts, Minister
of the United States of America, who has been sent by the govern
ment thereof, on its behalf, to form a treaty of sincere friendship and
entire good faith between the two nations. For this purpose the Si
amese and the qjtizens of the United States of America shall, with
sincerity, hold commercial intercourse in the ports of their respective
nations as long as Heaven and Earth shall endure.
This treaty is concluded on Wednesday, the last of the fourth
month of the year 1194, called Pi-marong chatava-sok, (or the year
of the dragon,) corresponding to the twentieth day of March, in the
year of our Lord, 1833. One original is written in Siamese, the
other in English; but, as the Siamese are ignorant of English, and the
Americans of Siamese, a Portuguese and a Chinese translation are
annexed, to serve as testimony to the contents of the treaty. The
writing is of the same tenor and date in all the languages aforesaid:
it is signed, on the one part, with the name of the Chao Phaya P'hra-
klang, and sealed with the seal of the lotus flower of glass; on the
other part it is signed with the name of Edmund Roberts, and sealed
with a seal containing an eagle and stars.
One copy will be kept in Slam, and another will be taken, by lEA-
mund Roberts, to the United States. If the government of the
United States shall ratify the said treaty, and attach the seal of the
government, then Siam will also ratify it on its part, and attach the
seal of its government.
Article I. There shall be a perpetual peace between the United
States of America and the Magnificent King of Siam.
Art. II. The citizens of the United States shall have free liberty
to enter all the ports of the kingdom of Siam, with their cargoes, |f
whatever kind the said cargoes may consist; and, they shall have lib
erty to sell the same to any of the subjects of the king, or others, who
may wish to purchase the same, or barter the sarae for any produce or
manufactures of the kingdom, or other articles that may be found there.
No prices shall be fixed by the officers of the king on the articles to be
sold by the merchants of the United States, or the merchandise they

the magnificent king of siam. 341
may wish to buy: but the trade shall be free on both sides to sell, buy or
exchange, on the terms and for the prices the owners may think fit.
Whenever the said citizens of the United States, shall be ready to de
part, they shall be at liberty so to do, and the proper officers shall furnish
them with passports, provided always, there be no legal impediment
to the contrary. Nothing contained in this article shall be under
stood as granting permission to import and sell munitions of war to
any person excepting the king, who, if he does not require, will not
be bound to purchase them; neither is permission granted to import
opium, which is contraband; or to export rice, which cannot be em
barked as an article of commerce. These only are prohibited.
Art. III. Vessels of the United States entering any port within
His Majesty's dominions, and selling or purchasing cargoes of mer
chandise, shall pay, in lieu of import and export duties, tonnage, license
to trade, or any other charge whatever, a measurement duty, as fol
lows: — The measurement shall be made from side to side, in the mid
dle of the vessel's length, and if a single decked vessel on such sin
gle deck; if otherwise, on the lower deck. On every vessel selling
merchandise, the sum of one thousand seven hundred tica,ls or bats
shall be paid for every Siamese fathom in breadth so measured; the
said fathom being computed to contain seventy-eight English or
American inches, corresponding to ninety-six Siamese inches: but if
the said vessel should come without merchandise, and purchase a
cargo with specie only, she shall then pay the sum of fifteen hundred
ticals or bats, for each and every fathom before described. Farther-
more, neither the aforesaid measurement duty nor any other charge
whatever shall be paid by any vessel of the United States that enters
a Siamese port for the purpose of refitting, or for refreshments, or to
inquire the state of the markets.
Art. IV. If hereafter the duties payable by foreign vessels be
diminished in favor of any other nation, the same diminution shall be
made in favor of the vessels of the United States.
Art. V. If any vessel of the United States shall suffer shipwreck
on any part of the Magnificent King's dominions, the persons
Reaping from the wreck shall be taken care of, and hospitably en
tertained, at the expense of the king, until they shall find an oppor
tunity to be returned to their country, and the property saved frora
such wreck shall be carefully preserved and restored to its owners:
— and the United States will repay all expenses incurred by his ma
jesty on account of such wreck.
Art. VI. If any citizen of the United States coming to Siam for

342 treaty between the united states and
the purpose of trade shall contract debts to any individual of Siam,
or if any individual of Siam shall contract debts to any citizen of
the United States, the debtor shall be obliged to bring forward and
sell all his goods fo pay his debts therewith. When the product of
such bona fide sale shall not suffice, he shall be no longer liable for
the remainder; nor shall the creditor be able to retain him as a slave,
imprison, flog or otherwise punish him, to compel the payment of
any balance; but shall leave him at perfect liberty.
Art. VII. Merchants of the United States coming to trade in the
kingdom of Siam, and wishing to rent houses therein, shall rent the
king's factories and pay the customary rent of the country. If the
said merchants bring their goods on shore, the king's officers shall
take account thereof, but shall not levy any duty thereupon.
Art. viii. If any citizens of the United States, or their vessels
or other property shall be taken by pirates and brought within the
dominions of the Magnificent King, the persons shall be set at liberty
and the property restored to its owners.
Art. IX. Merchants of the United States trading in the kingdom
of Siam, shall respect and follow the laws and custoras of the coun
try in all points.
Art. X. If hereafter any foreign nation, other than the Portuguese,
shall request and obtain His Majesty's consent to the appointraent of
consuls to reside in Siam, the United States shall be at liberty to ap
point consuls to reside in Siara, equally with such other foreign
nation. CERTIFICATE OF RATIFICATION.
" This is to certify, that Edmund Roberts, a Special Envoy of the
United States of America, delivered and exchanged a ratified treaty
on the day stnd date hereafter mentioned, and which was signed and
sealed in the royal city of Sia-Yut'hia, being the capital of the king
dom of Siam, on the twentieth day of March, one thousand eight
hundred and, thirty-three, corresponding to the fourth month of the
year of the Dragon. «
" In witness whereof. We, the Magnificent King of Siam, do ratify
and confirm the said Treaty, by affixing hereunto our Royal Seal, as
well as the seals of all the great ministers of State, at the city of Sia-
Yut'hia on the fourteenth day of the fifth month of the year, called
the Monkey, being the Sakarat or year Eleven hundred, and ninety-
eight, and which corresponds to the fourteenth day of the month of

the magnificent king of siam. 343
April, being the year of Christ, one thousand and eight hundred and
thirty-six." Here follow the seven seals of the empire. They are blurred im
pressions, in red ink, about two and a half inches in diameter, bear
ing curious devices.
1st. The royal seal of Siam, or P'rah, I, Era Pot, presents an ele
phant with three heads, having on each side two royal chats, and
bearing on his back something resembling a castle; perhaps it is the
gateway of a wat.
2d. The device, which is almost illegible, is an animal compounded
ofa dragon, lion, &c. This seal is called P'rah Ra-chase, and is
used by the Chao Phaya Bodin Desha, or Khroma-ha-thai, formerly
called, Phya Chakri. He has the general superintendence of the
northern provinces, adjoining Pegu, and of the principalities of Laos
and Cambodia.
3d. The device, a griffin. This is the seal of Chao-Phya-Maha-
sena, or Khroma Kalahom. He is of equal rank with the last, and
holds the office of Commander-in-chief of all the land and sea-forces,
with the general superintendence of the south-western provinces, even
to that of the last tributary Malay Rajah.
4th. Is called, Trah Boa Kean. Its device is a Boudha in the
usual position, holding in one hand a blown lotus flower, and in the
other its leaf. This is the seal of the Chao Phya P'rah Klang, or
Khroma-tha, the minister of comraerce and foreign affairs. He su
perintends the south-eastern provinces adjoining Cochin-China.
^. 5th. Is naraed Trah Prah None Tak An, and the device is an
angel astride on the shoulders of a man ot demon. It is the seal of
the Chao Phya Therema Terat, or Khroma Wang, governor of the
royal palace.
6th. Called Trah P'hra Peroon, the device of which is an angel
riding on a serpent, holding a flaming sword. This is the seal of the
Chao Phya Phollatape, or Krohma-na, who is minister of agriculture
and produce.
7th. Is the Trah, (seal) P'rah Yame Kesing, bearing for device, an
angel riding a lion and bearing a lance. It is the seal of the Chao
Phya Somarat, or Yomarat; or Khroma Merang, the minister of
criminal justice.
The presents made by the government of the United States, con
sisted of lamps. Nankins, carpeting, male and female costumes of
the United States. Two very large and elegant mirrors, an Ameri-

344

treaty with siam.

can flag.-shawls, a set of United States' coins, and two splendid
swords in gold scabbards.
The Envoy distributed presents among several of the Siamese offi
cers, consisting of pistols, fowling-pieces, money, &c.
The exception of rice as an article of export, made in the second
article of the above treaty, robs it of a great part of its value, be
cause rice is an important article in the trade with China. Vessels
loaded with it are exempted from paying, what is known as " cum-
shaw duties," amounting, in many cases, to three thousand dollars;
and for this reason, they often put into the rice ports of Java, or
into Manila, on their outward voyage frora the United States to
Canton, to load with this article. Therefore, it is desirable to add
to the places beyond the Cape of Good Hope whereat rice may be
obtained, for the advantage of our Chinese commerce.

SKETCHES IN COCHIN-CHINA.

44

DEPARTURE FROM SIAM. 347

CHAPTER XXXHI.
SKETCHES IN COCHIN-CHINA.
May, 1836.
On the twentieth of April, Mr. Roberts and the officers, all of them
unwell and some of them seriously ill, returned on board. The Prince
Momfanoi attempted to visit us, but was so much affected by sea
sickness after clearing the mouth of the Meinam, that he put back.
In testimony of his regard, he sent to several of the officers little curi
osities, as books of the talipot leaf, &c., which they reciprocated in
such books as they thought might be useful and entertaining to him.
Araong thera were, Hinton's Views of the United States, Herschell's
Astronoray, Duponceau's Constitution of the United States, Cobbet's
Advice, and several works on gunnery and military tactics, &c., far
exceeding in value the presents of Momfanoi.
At sunset we were under way, and I believe no one in the squadron
felt the least regret upon taking a final leave of Siam. In all proba
bility not one of us will ever visit it again, and we hope it may be
long ere any of our ships of war will be found in the waters of the
gulf. The officers and crews now felt severely the effects of eastern
tropical climates; all, with few exceptions, had been seriously ill
once, some of them twice; the past two months had been spent in
contending against wind and currents; the ship was almost an hos
pital; four men had died since leaving Batavia, the provisions were
of inferior quality, and were fast lessening in quantity; a general
languor possessed our bodies, and even the stoutest hearts were at
times dejected. We looked for relief in clearing the gulf, and hoped
to find fresh and favoring breezes in the China Sea, which would
soon waft us to some invigorating climate.
The passage down the gulf of Siam was retarded by calms and

348 white animals of siam — pulo oby.
very light winds. The air was moist and sultry, and the " sun ap
peared as if shining through, a wet blanket." The number of sick
was augmented, and in almost all the cases, as in cholera, the skin
was.cold and clammy — the Genius of the disease still hovering over
us — evincing a strong predisposition to internal congestions. Nor
did this state of things change iraraediately after reaching the China
Sea. For several days, while in the gulf, we were visited by many pretty
fly-catchers, which hopped about with perfect confidence, picking up
flies on deck; they often received food from the hand, and some
times, when we were sitting quiet, would alight upon our persons.
They flew in and out of the cabin during the day, and took shelter
there at night.
In the gulf we saw several white dolphins. Siam presents us with a
great number of animals, which differ in a remarkable manner from the
same species in other parts of the world. The white elephant, the
white squirrel, the white ape, the white monkey, white as snow, white
lizards, white dolphin, &c. Mr. Finlayson is of opinion that they
are white for the same reason, which is not known, that produces the va
riety in the human species, known as albino. But after a pretty careful
examination of several of the above animals, I am disposed to differ
from that gentleman. The iris of the white elephant is not white in
all specimens; nor was it white in any specimen of the white squirrel
which fell under my observation.
On the second of May, we were near the island of Pulo Oby, situ
ated in latitude 8° 25' north, not far from the coast of Cambodia,
which is low and beautifully green. The island is high and clothed
in a luxuriant vegetation from its summit to the water's edge; but
frora want of level land, adapted to cultivation, is incapable of sup
porting any considerable population, and has only two or three in
habitants. It is often visited by vessels for water, which is of good
quality and easily procured.
This day we had the melancholy duty of committing to the deep
the remains of Henry Mount, (marine,) who died from the effects of
repeated attacks of dysentery and diarrhcEa.
The next morning the Peacock anchored on the northern side of
the island, and procured about a thousand gallons of water. The
watering party brought off a pigeon of a yellowish white color, the
wings tipped with black, several squirrels and crows.
On the fourth we got under way, and pursued our voyage along
shore, the sea being smooth and the wind fair, but the currents were

pulo CONDORE  COAST OF COClllN-CHINA. 349
found to be strong and rapid. The temperature became more tolera
ble, but there was no diminution of the sick list.
On the sixth we passed Pulo Condore, whereon the English had
an establishment last century; but the colony was cruelly massacred
by the Malays, since which they have not attempted to make there
another settlement. On the seventh, all the bread in the ship was
found to be in a condition of decay, and, after a careful survey, it
was condemned and thrown overboard, leaving us destitute of every
article of diet, except hard salted meat and rice. It would be diffi
cult to present, to those who did not witness it, an adequate idea of
the distressing state of things existing on board of the ship. One-
fourth of the crew were confined, by sickness, to their hammocks,
and those who were not under medical treatment, enfeebled by pre
vious disease, were scarcely able to move about the decks; and, had
we been so unfortunate as to encounter a gale, I doubt whether the
physical force on board was sufficient to take care of the ship. It is
the experience of contrasts like these which endears us to our home,
and enhances its pleasures, showing the miserable chances which
ever hang round a sailor's existence. But it is a gift mercifully be
stowed upon all those who follow the seas, to forget anxiety and dan
ger the moment they are past, and feel themselves exempt for the
future. The whole coast of Cochin-China is beautiful and grand. The
shore is indented by frequent bays; and the mountains, which rise
several thousand feet in height, are broken into innumerable valleys
and ravines. Numerous small craft were seen plying up and down
the coast, but none came to us. There is only wanting a history of
daring deeds connected with this scenery to cast over it the interest
and poetic charm which renders a sight of the Sierra Nevada and the
blue hills of Granada so delightful. Its beauties are almost lost upon
those who, like us, are ignorant of the prominent events in the his
tory of this distant realm, which may, perhaps, be sufficiently im
portant to make these shores classic ground.
At sunset, on the thirteenth, Turon Point was in sight. Many
fishing boats were seen under the high land. The breeze was very
lio-ht, the S. W. monsoon having not yet fairly set in, and we did not
gain the anchorage until next day.
At noon we anchored in Turon bay. An irregular, mountainous
country encloses an oval sheet of water, probably five miles by two,
in which there is good anchorage, where vessels may lie entirely

350 TURON BAY.
land-locked. The green hills and mountains in the back ground,
crowned with fleecy clouds, and a thread of white sand beach bound
ing the margin, with no habitation in sight, give a wild and pic
turesque character to the scenery. Close in shore was a dismantled
junk, and a few canoes, with long outriggers, were skimming over
the bay before a gentle breeze. A spy-glass discovered to us the
signs of a village, a short distance from the mouth of a rivulet, which
emptied into the bay.
We had scarcely anchored before a canoe came alongside, but
again departed without giving or receiving information, because the
people on board only spoke Cochin-Chinese. About five o'clock in
the evening we were visited by three canoes, larger and better look
ing than any we had yet seen. They were decorated with pennons,
which marked them as the property of the state. The principal one
carried the three visiting officers in the bow, attended by a guard of
eight soldiers, in long red jackets, with blue facings, bare legs, and
black turbans, under glazed basket helmets. The officers were im
mediately conducted to the cabin, where they seated themselves on
chairs; but very soon slipped off their shoes and drew their heels un
der thera, while their attendants squatted on the deck. The princi
pal man among them was remarkable for a very long, sparsely grow
ing beard, which he was at great pains to stroke, or draw through his
fingers, to keep it properly disposed, whenever disturbed by the
breeze. The three were dressed alike, in a blue silk frock, buttoned
far over on the left breast with filigree buttons, silk pantaloons and
black crape turbans, bare legs, and wooden-soled shoes. The cos
tumes of the attendants were of similar fashion, but of less costly
materials, and they were barefoot. Each officer was accompanied by
a sword-bearer, and each attendant carried two crimped silk reti
cules, in form of a shell, connected by a long cord, passing over the
neck and shoulders. To the cord were attached a metallic tooth-pick
and spoon for the ear. The reticules contained arecanut, tobacco,
and cigars, which were constantly supplied to the great men.
By means of a limited vocabulary, made by Mr. Roberts, in Janu
ary, 1833, when at Vunglam, in the province of Fuyen, we were ena
bled to make them comprehend the object of the ship's visit to Tu
ron. The scene of this interview was curious, both to behold and
hear. The language of the Cochin-Chinese was uttered in a soft
singing tone, varying like the recitative part of an Italian opera.
Their manners were gentle, and at once placed thera in our estima-

VISIT THE SHORE. 351
tion far above the Siamese. They chewed arecanut or smoked ci
gars, made of cut tobacco, rolled in dry corn husks, while they dis
coursed, very little to our edification.
Mr. Roberts confided to them a letter, prepared in French and
English, addressed to the Prime Minister at Hue, the capital, where,
it was presumed, the French language was understood, froija the num
ber of Frenchmen formerly employed in the government; as well as
from the French missionaries residing in the country. This letter
announced our arrival and the object of our visit, requesting that de
spatch might be used, on account of the unhealthy state of the vessel,
as well as on account of Mr. Roberts' serious indisposition. The offi
cers received the communication, and we understood them that an
answer might be expected in three days.
While in the cabin, some of the inferior officers, supposing, as a
matter of course, that we were here for the purposes of trade, mea
sured the tonnage of the ship. At the end of an hour, all took leave,
by shaking hands, offering the palm upwards.
Early the next morning, in spite of a slight shower, I accompanied
Lieutenant Turner on shore. We entered a quiet stream about two
hundred yards wide, and did not proceed up it a much greater dis
tance, before we were hailed from the shore, and gathered from the
significant gestures of an individual whom we recognised as one of
the party of the day before, that we must land. Several junks and
small boats were secured to the shore by hawsers. The river runs
through a level plain. At this point there were two or three sheds,
beneath which as many boats were hauled up and under repair, but
no one was as yet at work: Near one of these we landed, and were
received by three or four persons, and among them the officer of yes
terday. While one hand was employed with a fan, held to shade his
eyes from the rising sun, he pointed to the village with the other, at
the same time pronouncing the word " mandarin." We now com
prehended, we were to see the man of consequence, and after pass
ing the sheds, followed our conductor over a green meadow of little
extent. Five minutes' walk brought us to the edge of the town. On
our left was a fort, on our right a few huts, and in front of us what
we presumed might be the town hall. The news of our arrival had
gone abroad, and there was a considerable turn out of naked boys and
girls who followed after us; and on our way, we saw some mothers
who peeped forth from their huts, holding a "toddling wee thing"
by the hand, while an infant was suspended on the back. They aban
doned their occupations, and gazed at us with no littie wonder, while

352 COCHIN-CHINESE MANDARIN.
our appearance, to the children, seemed to be rather a source of alarm.
A glance showed them to be, in our estimation, deficient in comeli
ness and cleanliness; nay, they were nasty, itchy looking people, lit
tle ones and all.
A rude paling separated the town hall from the common road. It
stood back about thirty yards, and consisted of an extensive roof ot
tiles, supported by a back and two lateral walls, the front being open
to a sort of veranda, made by prolonging the roof and supporting the
eaves on stout wooden posts. The floor was raised about three feet
above the ground. Its area was about thirty by seventy feet. In the
middle of the veranda stood a rough table of the height of the floor,
and joined to it; and a chair and^ bamboo settie were placed on each
side of it. Opposite to the table, the floor was covered by a rattan
mat, six feet square, on which sat « la Turque, the Mandarin, who
slipped ofl" his shoes and assumed the place, the moraent he perceived
our approach. A broad pavement led from the gateway to the table,
so that we advanced directiy in front of the officer, and, by his ges
ticulated invitation, seated ourselves in the chairs.
The mandarin was a good-humored looking personage, with a fat
flabby face, his cheeks hanging down like those of a well fed pig; his
eyes were lack-lustre, and deeply sunk in their sockets, and when he
laughed they almost disappeared. His short fat form was clothed
in a blue silk frock, and white silk pantaloons, made very broad at
the bottom, and his merry countenance ^as shaded by a full black
crape turban.
It was plainly to be seen that our visit was somewhat too early, for
there was a considerable bustle among his h^lf dozen attendants, who,
on receiving some orders in very imperative tones, ran off in different
directions. Presently a half dozen soldiers in red jackets, dirty breech
es, bare legs, and glazed helmets, arraed with spears, hurried in, one
after the other, and were marshalled into file. In the course of a very
few minutes,the number increased to forty men, of whom eighteen were
armed with spears, twelve feet long, fourteen with French muskets,
and the rest with long two-handed swords. The last had each a rat
tan fixed on the scabbard of their swords, and each wore a large piatch
of green cloth on the breast. The sleeves of the soldiers' jackets,
from the elbow to the hand, were either white, blue, or green, which
probably distinguished the corapanies to which they belonged. At
last they were disposed in double files, the spearraen in the rear, from
the gate to the veranda, on each side of the pavement.
The soldier who arrived last, received a reprimand, and laid down

MARKET WOMEN. 353
on the pavement, upon his face, but the old mandarin vociferated,
and he hastened to the rear of one of the files, and assumed the same
position. One of the swordsmen then struck him, with the end of
his rattan, at least two dozen blows over the back; but his clothes
were so loose that the infliction was at little cost of pain. After the
chastisement, he assumed his place in the ranks. There was evi
dently a strong desire on the part of the mandarin, that his guard
should appear to advantage, and that he himself should be looked on
by us, as the man of authority.
Tea was iraraediately placed upon the table, in coarse China pots,
with cups of delft ware, spoons of the same material, and common
brown sugar in a saucer.
Being destitute of an interpreter, we were obliged to communi
cate our wants, by drawing a bullock, a fowl, an egg, &c., which were
comprehended, and assented to by the old mandarin, who, nodding
and laughing, with his mouth full of arecanut, which he took from
a blue silk reticule beside him, gave the necessary orders. WhUe we
were carrying on this negotiation, some of the boat's crew had wan
dered towards the fort, but were immediately brought back.
In a few minutes a number of women gathered in front of the gate,
with baskets of fruit, eggs, fish, dried and fresh, hens, ducks, &c., which
they oflered at exorbitant prices: we went among them and found
they were generally willing to accept one-half, and frequently one-
fourth of their original demands. We had only Spanish dollars, but we
soon got them changed in Cochin-Chinese cash, a brittle coin of tu-
tenague, the size of a cent, with a square hole in tiie centre, by which
they were strung on rattans, two or three feet in length. This mo
ney, worth about a dollar a thousand, was not counted, but measured
by the eye, and so much of a string offered as the price of the article
bargained for. Among other venders, were restaurans ambulans,
with fish, broiled on wooden skewers, and jars of fish pickle which
were strongly urged upon our attention. There was a good deal of
talking and excitement among the people while our trafficking cour
tinned, which, at the end of an hour, was cut short by the mandarin
driving off all the hawksters, and signifying to us, that for this time
we had purchased enough. We accordingly took leave with what
we had, and returned on boaird.
Araong these people diseases of the skin are very common; we
scarcely met an individual who was not affected by some disorder of
the kind. It is probably owing to their filthy habits, both in diet and
dress. They wear silk next to their skins, which is seldom changed
45

354

COCHIN-CHINESE MANDARINS.

until it be worn out; and they prefer stale, or partially incubated eggs
to fresh ones.
The faces of the Cochin-Chinese are flat, and their complexion
much lighter than that of the Siamese. The back part of the head
is more developed, and in accordance with this configuration, we
find them much more active. Their average stature is probably less,
and'does not exceed five feet two inches.
On the seventeenth, the Cochin-Chinese officers, who visited us on
the day of our arrival, came on board in a long canoe, pulling forty
oars. They were seated in the bows, the place of honor with these
people, under the shade of an umbrella, and on this occasion were
accompanied by an individual, who, besides Cochin-Chinese, spoke
Malay. We had on board a Dutch passenger from Batavia, who spoke
French and Malay, and thus armed, we held a much more satisfac
tory intercourse than we had done hitherto.
They were received in the cabin, where they disposed of themselves
as they did on their first visit. They inquired the respective rank of
the officers prfesent, but were unwilling to believe that Mr. Roberts
was the envoy, because he did not, like the cominodore and captain,
wear epaulettes. To this subject they frequently recurred, and did
not appear to be satisfied in the end. This should be a hint to fu
ture diplomats to Cochin-China, to adorn themselves with some glit
tering badge of distinction. They stated, that the emperor was not
at the capital, and we should be obliged to wait, still five days, be
fore an answer could be returned to Mr. Roberts' communication.
They voluntarily offered permission to the officers to amuse them
selves on shore, provided they would not go in parties exceeding ten
in number; but under the pretext that the emperor might be displeased,
they afterwards revoked it.
Mr. Roberts mentioned his visit to Vunglam, in 1833, remarking,
he had been informed that the emperor had bastinadoed several of
the high mandarins there, in consequence of the vexatious delays they
had caused him at that time, by not immediately forwarding his de
spatches. To this they very coolly replied, they had forwarded Mr.
Roberts' letter the evening it was received, and now had nothing
more to. do in the matter.
At the moraent the presents for the emperor were mentioned,
some samples of sugar and rice were accidentally laid on the table;
and, supposing that the presents consisted of those articles, they ex
claimed that the emperor had enough of these; and it was some time
before they were made to comprehend differently.

COCHIN-OHINESE ETIQUETTE. 355
They inquired how long we had been coming from the United
States, at what places we had touched, &c. They stated, that no
one would be allowed to furnish us with beef, &c., before an answer
should be received from Hue.
The chief mandarin, as he sat upon his chair with his bare feet
drawn up under him, occasionally held his fan between his toes,
while his hands were employed, either in stroking his beard, or wiping
his face with a red rag instead of a pocket handkerchief. Every sub
ject named, was recurred to again and again under different forms,
as if they were determined to sift the matter to the bottom. During
the interview, they drank wine, chewed arecanut and smoked cigars;
but preferred their own to some Havanas which they accepted and
afterwards distributed among their boat's crew. Some Chinese
tracts were given them, which they appeared to read with interest,
after the manner of players in an opera, but did not take them away.
They were quite content, and we were heartily glad, when, after an
interview of three hours, they took leave.
The Cochin-Chinese are a polite people, and punctilious observers
of etiquette. At Vunglam, the chief mandarin questioned the pro
priety of one of his rank and numerous titles, holding intercourse
with Mr. Roberts, who came frora a country where he understood
there were no titles and all men were equal. Mr. Roberts, per
ceiving that unless this objection were removed, all negotiation would
be at an end, replied that the mandarin had been in some measure
misinformed. lie told him, if his Chinese secretary would take a
piece of paper, he would enumerate his own titles and convince him
of his error. Tbe secretary selected a half sheet of paper, but Mr.
Roberts requested him to take a whole one, as that even would be
scarcely large enough. The American officers present were of course
at a loss to imagine how Mr. R. would extricate himself frora this seem
ing difficulty. But not so Mr. Roberts. He dictated as follows:
Edmund Roberts, Esquire, Special Envoy frora the President of the
United States to the Emperor of Cochin-China, Citizen of the United
States, Citizen of Maine, Citizen of New Hampshire, and con
tinued enumerating himself citizen of each of the twenty-four states;
for being citzen of all, he was so of them severally. Before the sheet
was half full, the mandarin exclaimed, it was unnecessary to go farther,
as his titles already exceeded his own. Had he not been satisfied,
Mr. Roberts intended to enumerate as many of the cities, towns and
villages as he could remember, not doubting the success of this rdae
diplomatique.

356

SHIP VISITED BY MANDARINS.

On the 20th we had another visit from the mandarins, and a pre
sent of fruit. They now told us that eleven days more must elapse,
before an answer to our letter could be received.
On the 21st, the ^Enterprise arrived in a very sickly condition,
which made it more necessary to seek some port where refreshments
could be obtained. She had pursued the off-shore passage and had
encountered very light winds and calms, which delayed her ar
rival. In the evening we had another visit, to inform us that there was
no one at the capital to read the letter sent by Mr. Roberts, (which
we were inclined to doubt,) and the emperor had sent a high officer
to Turon to ascertain the object of our visit. This officer had al
ready arrived, and would be very glad to receive Mr. Roberts on
shore, which invitation was positively declined on his part, because
etiquette required that the emperor's officer should first wait upon
him. The next morning at eight o'clock, the mandarins again came on
board; but Mr. Roberts was so much indisposed that he would not
receive them, and they went away, evidently much displeased, not
being permitted even to go below the deck, to gratify their curiosity.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

SKETCHES IN COCHIN-CHINA.

May, 1836.
1'he general sickness of the crews of both vessels, as well as the
dangerous state of Mr. Robert's health, made it imperative to seek
some place promising more speedy relief than was likely to be found
among the Cochin-Chinese. But, before sailing, it was desirable to
ascertain, if possible, what might be the disposition of the govern
ment in respect to negotiating a treaty of friendship and commerce;
so that, in case it were favorable, we might return properly condi
tioned and provided with interpreters, and, if not, save the time

PROSPECTS OF A TREATY WITH OOOHIN-OHINA. 357
which it might require to return. It will be seen in the sequel that
very little hope could be reasonably entertained of negotiating with
a people who manifested distrust and suspicion on the most triflino-
points of intercourse; who, however ready they be to take unfair ad
vantage, they seem unwilling to reciprocate any thing to secure their
own interest. Whether a treaty between the United States and
Cochin-China, at this time, is particularly desirable, I have heard
questioned by several intelligent and experienced merchants, who
urged that the Cochin-Chinese are treacherous, and never would ob
serve the provisions of any treaty; that they are too distant to enable
us to bring their manufactures or produce into our markets with
profit; that the existence of a treaty would not place it more in Our
power to obtain redress frora them, for any improper treatment of our
citizens, than at present; that the commercial experiments already
made have proved their trade to be scarcely worth seeking; and that
the only advantage of a treaty, and that, at best, problematical,
would be in considering it a step towards China itself; but I leave
the discussion of the subject to diplomatists, politicians, and place
men, who may discover here a means of at once advancing their own
interests and their country's glory.
The English have made several unsuccessful attempts to effect a
treaty with Cochin-China, and attribute their failure to the misrepre
sentations of the French and Portuguese, in regard to the British
character. But there are other obstacles found in the low estimation
at which merchants are held by the Cochin-Chinese, and the fre
quent civil and foreign wars by which the government has been dis
tracted for ages. At present they are contending with the Siamese
for the territory of Cambodia, which, it seems, they have long been
desirous of annexing to their own.
On the twenty-second, having received instructions from Mr. Ro
berts, I went on shore, accompanied by Messrs. William R. Taylor
and Jacobs, the Dutch passenger before mentioned, to comraunicate
with the raessenger frora Hue, sent by the Emperor of Cochin-China,
or, as they delight to style it, Anam.
We landed at half past one o'clock, P. M., and, following a tor
tuous path among wretched huts, tenanted by women and children
with dirty clothes and itchy skins, halted at the town hall before de
scribed. At one end of the hall were several clerks writing, without
other desk than the floor itself, and a half dozen individuals were
lounging under the veranda with two of the officers who had visited
the ship.

358 DIPLOMA-rlC INTERCOURSE.
We had scarcely taken our seats at the table before one of the two
officers demanded to know the cause of the treatment they had re
ceived when on board in the morning. I replied, that when the em
peror's messenger, styled the Lakak, should arrive and ask the ques
tion, it would be answered.
In a few minutes, an individual, as well dressed as any of those
we had seen, arrived, under a large sunshade of Chinese fashion,
with numerous tassels depending from the inside, which was borne
by an attendant. He at once proposed to accompany us on board,
to seek an interview with Mr. Roberts; but, feeling assured that our
object would not be advanced by acceding to this proposal, I stated,
it would be useless for hira to take so much trouble, because I could
inform the Lakak of all he might desire to know; nevertheless, I
should be very happy to escort the Lakak, himself, on board, where
Mr. Roberts would be very glad to receive him. He replied: " This
morning Mr. Roberts was sick, and refused to see those who went
on board, and perhaps the sarae might occur again?" To this I re
joined, " If the Emperor's messenger will go on board, Mr. Roberts
will certainly see him."
Tea was now served in the same rude style as on the occasion of
our first visit.
The officer who last arrived inquired who of us three was highest
in rank, and was told that I was. He then asked why Mr. Roberts
did not receive hira in the morning when on board, and was replied
to, that Mr. Roberts was very unwell, and though he would be
pleased to see the Lakak himself, he could not be troubled, at this
time, by any one of inferior rank. This officer now remarked that
the Lakak would come, in a few minutes, to speak with me himself,
and again asked what was my rank. Owing to the inefficiency of
the interpreters, he was given to understand that it was next to that
of captain, and Mr. Jacobs gratuitously added, that, in the absence
of Mr. Roberts, it was my duty to transact business for hira. He
again recurred to the subject of his reception on board, and was again
told that, whenever the Lakak should ask it, the matter would be
explained. After a short conversation among themselves, it was again pro
posed that the officer should accompany us on board, and he was in
formed this had already been refused; and farther, if the Lakak would
not see us, it was useless to remain longer; remarking, at the same
time, the vessels would sail in the evening, but Mr. Roberts would
regret not seeing, or hearing directly from the Lakak, before his de-

DIPLOMATIC INTERCOURSE. 359
parture. We were a second time assured that the Lakak would
meet us in a few minutes.
At this time a messenger was despatched, probably to inform the
emperor's envoy of all that had transpired. During the pause thereby
occasioned, we had leisure to observe that most of the persons present,
of any distinction, wore over white silk under vestments, a frock or
shirt of thin black crape, like that called Italian. Their turbans
were of black Canton crape, the folds of which all crossed one above
the other, about the centre of the forehead.
We were now asked, why one of the companions of the Lakak, who
was on board in the morning, had been prevented from going below,
which question I declined answering for the present. They then put
several questions relative to our respective names and rank, which we
wrote down for them.
At the expiration of about twenty minutes after the departure of
the messenger, a palanquin, consisting of a net hammock, lined with
rugs, slung to a single pole and shaded by an oval roof, arrived bear
ing a personage of perhaps forty years of age. The palanquin was
preceded by a single banner, and followed by fifty men, one half of
them armed with long spears, and the rest with muskets. Their uni
forms were of scarlet cloth, faced with yellow and blue. The fashion
of their jackets was long waisted; the nether garment was a nonde
script sort of swaddling cloth or breeches, reaching to the knee.
The muskets were French, and some of their locks were bandaged
with blue cloth, to shield them frora damp, and many were without
flints. When they had reached the front of the house, within the
enclosure, they divided into double files on each side of the walk,
leading from the gate, and confronted each other, the spearmen in
the rear. Whde this evolution was performing, the palanquin halted
and an attendant placed a pair of ornamented slippers, with wooden
soles, on the feet of the passenger. He at once alighted, and, grace
fully saluting us with a nod and wave of the hand, immediately
seated himself cross-legged upon the margin of the floor, next to the
table. The fashion of his costume was like that of his countrymen,
but of a much more costly material. It consisted of a white sUk
jacket buttoned to the throat, and fitting the arms and person tightly,
and loose pantaloons, also of white silk, reaching half way down the
calf. Over these was worn the robe or shirt of sky blue silk lace,
with a vine pattern woven in it, so neatly that it might be mistaken at
a short distance, for embroidery. His turban, of very fine black
crape, was accurately folded; his face and head were small, and his

360

DIPLOMATIC INTERCOURSE.

complexion light yellow; his beard and mustache, if a few long,
sparsely growing hairs merit the name, were gray, and his finger nails
were remarkable for length, and being clean. In short, the air and
dress of this individual proclairaed him to be a Cochin-Chinese gen
tleman of haut ton, and of acknowledged rank.
All were silent for a few moraents, when I inquired whether he
were the Lakak. He answered that he was not, but was equally em
powered to hear any coraraunication I might have to make; adding,
that the Lakak himself would arrive in a few minutes. He stated,
that not being able to understand, or get interpreted the letter, which
Mr. Roberts had forwarded to Hue, they had been despatched from
the court to ascertain its import, as well as the object of our visit,
and concluded by asking if I were empowered to represent Mr.
Roberts on this occasion. I replied in the affirmative, at the same
time remarking, we were under the impression, that there were per_-
sons in the capital who understood the French language, and for that
reason a translation accompanied the original letter. He declared
there was no one who spoke or read that language in the country;
and demanded for what purpose I was making lead pencil notes,
whether I intended to leave them behind or take them with me. I
answered, they were designed for Mr. Roberts, that he might be
correctly informed of all that transpired on this occasion.
At this moraent the palanquin of the Lakak was seen approaching,
at a short trot rather than march, which would have better comported
with his dignity. Two yellow banners, suspended from cross pieces
at the end of long staves, down which they hung, first appeared,
followed by fifty soldiers in advance of the palanquin, which was like
that above described, except that it was more gaudy. It was followed
by an attendant, bearing a chunam box of Japanese laquered ware,
another with the wooden soled slippers of the Lakak, and fifty sol
diers. In their arms and appointraents, these troops were in all re
spects like those who were already before us. The want of rausic
detracted very much from the military effect which they were cal
culated to produce. They formed continuous files, beyond the fence
of the enclosure, with those within it, and extended almost to the
river upon which the hall fronts, distant between two and three hun
dred yards.
The Lakak, observing the same ceremony as his companion,
alighted and assumed a seat on the left, and in front of me. He was
not more than thirty years of age, his beard was black, and his coun
tenance was much more intelligent than that of his companion. The

DIPLOMATIC INTERCOURSE. 361
stature of neither of them exceeded five feet. His costume was only
diflerent from that of the other, in being secured by cornelian but
tons. So soon as he was seated, he filled his mouth with arecanut,
taken from a blue silk reticule embroidered with silver, which was
presented by an attendant.
Several individuals, who might be of the rank of sergeant or cor
poral, gathered under the veranda, bearing long two-handed swords
in wooden scabbards, the hilts of which they held uppermost. When
any one crossed the open alley between the confronting files of
troops, he half inclined his body, very much after the servile man
ner of the Siamese.
The Lakak remained some minutes silent; and, thinking he might
be waiting for me to begin, I expressed a hope that he had experienced
no inconvenience from his rapid journey from the capital. He
made no reply, but immediately asked why Mr. Roberts would not
see those who had been on board in the morning, and the sarae ex
planation was offered as before. I stated, that I was deputed to
comraunicate with him, and inform him that Mr. Roberts was charged
by the President of the United States, with a letter and presents for
the emperor, and invested with full powers to negotiate a commer
cial treaty, or to ascertain upon what footing American vessels would be
admitted to trade in the ports of Anam or Cochin-China; Mr. Roberts
sincerely regretted that his own health, as well as that of the crews
of the vessels, required his speedy departure; and he particularly
regretted it, because, three years before he was at Vunglam, for the
sarae purpose, and, after being delayed there a month, was under the
necessity of returning to the United States without receiving a satis
factory answer.* But he hoped to return at some future time pro
vided with interpreters.
The Lakak inquired whether I had the letter for the emperor, and
was told that the letter could only be delivered by Mr. Roberts in
person. He then asked, to whom Mr. Roberts had given his letter
when at Vunglam. I replied, the letter was written in Chinese, and
had been delivered to a mandarin, who refused to forward it without
giving it, in translation, an import different from that which it was
intended to convey; but we had since learned, the emperor had
punished the mandarin for his conduct. He now inquired who
• For a detailed account of the visit to Vunglam, the reader is referred to a
posthumous work, recently published, entitled, " An Embassy to the Eastern
Courts of Cochin-China, Siam and Muscat," in the years 1832-3-4, by Edmund
Roberts. 46

362

DIPLOMATIC INTERCOURSE.

translated the letter into Chinese, and whether the individual was not
on board. Being told that he was not, he exclaimed, " How is it
possible to negotiate without interpreters?" I urged that we had
anticipated assistance from the French, whom we understood resided
at Hue; but being, as it seemed, misinformed on this head, we should
be obliged to depart a second time, which Mr. Roberts sincerely re
gretted. I asked whether they were disposed to enter into a commercial
treaty- with us, remarking that Araerican vessels did not visit Anam
for'the purpose of trade, because they did not know how they might
be received, nor what the charges and duties might be upon their
cargoes; but, it was expected, if a treaty were made, a commerce
which must be advantageous to both countries, would soon follow, as
they, would bring various kinds of merchandise and dollars to offer
in exchange for the products of Cochin-China. He stated, in answer,
that both the French and Dutch had been here, about the same sea
son the year before, and had made a similar proposition; but he was
ignorant what answer had been given them by the emperor, adding,
that he was not authorized to say whether the emperor was dis
posed to negotiate or not; nor was he able to say whether American
vessels would be admitted to trade; but if they should be, all kinds
of merchandise might be bought.
I stated, that a ship-of-war would visit them at some future period.
Again the letter addressed to the emperor was demanded, and being
refused, the Lakak said, if we had nothing farther to say, he v/ould
ask leave to retire.
I repeated our regret that the sickness on board of the vessels and
want of interpreters required our departure; and was about to take
leave, when the Lakak said, we might settle the matter at once. I told
him this was out of the question, because the interpreters, who were
our medium of communication, did not understand the language suf
ficiently well to treat on a subject of so much moment. He never
theless repeated, we two might settle the matter now. I then in
quired whether the Lakak were vested with powers to negotiate a
treaty; and what was his rank. I was informed in reply, that he was
the Lakak; resided in the palace with the emperor, and was superior
in rank to all those persons whom Mr. Roberts had seen at Vunglam.
He again repeated, we might settie it well enough, at least ver
bally, and requested that the letter for the emperor might be con
fided to him. I replied, I would communicate his request to Mr.
Roberts.

DIPLOMATIC INTERCOURSE. 363
" Cannot Mr. Roberts come here?"
" It is impossible; etiquette requires that the Lakak should make
the first visit to Mr. Roberts." He urged, if Mr. Roberts would
come on shore they might talk the matter over. 1 answered, that I
would report what he had said, and requested to take leave; for I
felt convinced, we were spending time to little purpose.
I was fatigued by the slow pace of our intercourse, being obliged
first to make my communications to Mr. Jacobs, in French, who
translated thera into Malay; but, as the Cochin-Chinese interpreter
spoke a different dialect from himself, and mingled vjith his Malay
many Cochin-Chinese words, there was great diificulty in possessing
him of my precise meaning. When he came to translate the obser
vations of the Lakak to Mr. Jacobs, a similar difficulty occurred, so
that much time was lost through the inefficiency of the interpreters.
Besides, both, in their zeal to be serviceable, were often found an
swering questions from their own knowledge, without considering
the propriety or expediency of such conduct.
Although those under the veranda appeared to be much interested
in the interview, the soldiers outside seemed to be as weary as my
self. They had all gradually squatted down, and were looking hea
venwards, grasping their muskets and spears, above their heads, for
support. The Lakak asked whether I would not return again the next day
to talk the matter over again; I replied, I would communicate what
he said to Mr. Roberts, but thought it probable we should sail in the
evening. He then remarked, that in from three to five days, an an
swer might be received from the emperor himself, and offered to pro
cure medicines for the sick, if we required thera, for which I ex
pressed our thanks. He said the officers would be permitted in fu
ture to roam where they pleased, for the purpose of recreation; but
requested, they would not shoot aniraals, as difficulties might arise
therefrom. As a farther inducement for the ship to remain, and which
was evidently an object with him, he stated that the water we had
on board was poisonous, or very bad from running over the roots of
certain plants, and recommended that of the river as excellent. This
was a barefaced falsehood, for the Cochin-Chinese themselves used
the same water, and carried it on board of their vessels. Pointing
towards the mountain, he exclaimed, with considerable aniraation,
" pas bon," and then to the river, " bon," I immediately asked in
French whether he spoke the language. He shook his head, blushed
to the eyes, and said, " non, non," in a bad accent, but still suffi-

364 WEATHER AT TURON  POULTRY.
cientiy French to convince me, that, though he might not be able to
speak the language fluently, he was quite able to read it.
During the interview, the mandarin who came under the sunshade,
often had a word to interpose, but all the others, except the compa
nion of the Lakak, were silent. They beguiled the time as they lis
tened, by rolling up cigars in paper or corn husk after the manner of
the Peruvian Spaniards, but they sadly lacked the grace which is pe
culiar only to fingers nourished by the rich blood of Spain and her
colonies. The Lakak himself indulged ih a pipe, made of speckled
bamboo, the bowl of which would hold a pint, and was connected to
a long slender stem. All the while he smoked, which he only did
for a few rapid whiffs at a time, an attendant held a taper of oiled
paper at the extremity of the stem within the bowl.
We shook hands, and I took leave impressed with the belief, that
though a treaty might be effected, it would be at the expense of much
time and patience, to overcome their vacillating and suspicious con
duct. The desire to delay the ship probably had its origin in the
expected profits arising from the sale of stock, &c. to us, for when
we issued forth from the enclosure, we were met by a crowd of mar
ket women, soliciting us to purchase their truck and poultry.
We reached the ship near six o'clock, P. M., and preparations
were made to get at once under way.
While we were at Turon, the weather was cool, and to us, so re
cently frora the sultry gulf of Siam, often chilly, though the thermo
meter ranged from 80° to 83° F. The average height of the barome
ter was 29.80 inches. The clouds generally floated low, and we had
one or two showers, accompanied by thunder and lightning almost
every day. The close jungle and trees of the hills give shelter to a
variety of monkeys, sorae of thera of singular appearance, as well
as many birds and reptiles. Fine fish were daily brought alongside,
and sold to us at moderate prices.
Our movements were always closely watched, and when any hunt
ing party strayed far from the shore, they were met by soldiers, who
intimated that they were going beyond the prescribed limits.
The poultry was of very excellent quality, and after the first day
procurable in almost any quantity.
" The whole of the Cochin-Chinese dominions, since Tun-quin has
yielded to the arras of the late usurper, fills the space between the
12th degree of north latitude and the tropic of Cancer; but their
breadth do not araount to two degrees of longitude. They are bound
ed to the westward by a long chain of mountains, which border on

OOCHIN-OHINESE TERRITORY.

365

the other side, on the kingdoms of Laos, Siam, and Cambodia. The
sea washes Cochin-China, and Tun-quin to the east; the former has
Tsiompa to the southward, and the latter the Cochin-Chinese pro
vince of Yunnan to the northward of it. The whole comprehends
about 95,000 square miles.*

Staunton's China.

SKETCHES IN CHINA.

VOYAGE TO MACAO. 369

CHAPTER XXXV.
SKETCHES IN CHINA.
June, 1836.
On the evening of the twenty-second of May, both vessels put to
sea, every one on board elated with hope; the numerous sick, of reach
ing a place where they might recover, and all of finding letters from
home at Macao. The monsoon blew pleasantly and the sea was tran
quil. On the twenty-fourth we were passing Hainan, which has been
long in the possession of the Chinese. Numerous fishing craft were
seen in every direction, giving a sure indication of an extensive po
pulation on the land. In many places, the fishing grounds were
marked by stout stakes driven into the bottom, leaving one end above
the surface of the sea.
At sunset we had a last view of Hainan, which is very high. Heavy
dark clouds were gathered over it, forming an immense vault, into
which rose numerous mountain peaks, and a fleecy scud floated like
a drawn curtain along the top of the arch. The rays of the setting
sun illuminated the whole scene, tinting the clouds with a thousand
colors, all as bright as our hopes. The Enterprise followed close un
der our stern, every sail swelling with the soft breeze of evening, and
" Home, sweet home!" rose from our band on deck, as both vessels
glided over the smooth, undulating sea, with a fair wind, at the rate
of six miles an hour.
The twenty -fifth was a delightful day, yet our sick were augmented
in number, and the cases wore an unpromising aspect. The twenty-
sixth was cool, rainy and unpleasant. About midday, in the midst
of a heavy shower, we received on board a Chinese pilot, an active
47

370 CHINESE PILOT  THE SICK MOVED ON SHORE.
man, with a keen eye to profit. He was sheltered from the storm
by a broad hat, and a cape of palm leaves, like a roof of thatch,
which gave hira, as well as his corapanions, who were protected after
the same fashion, a very novel appearance. Their little cock of a boat
had just left a pilot on board of an American ship a-head of us, bound
to Macao from Batavia. The boat was brought skilfully alongside,
and held on till sure of employment, when she was cast off; and drop
ping astern, quickly set sail by the wind, and stood away for the En
terprise. So soon as he was on deck, the pilot produced, frora a fold of his
blue Nankin shirt, several certificates of capability, and honesty, and
then deraanded forty dollars to guide the ship to the anchorage, but
consented to receive thirty, though, as we afterwards learned, his
customary fee was only ten; thus adding another example to the
many, that the character a man bears in his pocket is not always a
guarantee of his integrity. On concluding the bargain, he insisted
on shaking hands with the captain, to ratify its conditions, or, as he
expressed it, "so can secure." The neJft moment he assumed the
direction, and, in barbarous English, aided by gesture, began to issue
his orders. At half past three o'clock, P. M., we anchored, about
two miles from the town of Macao.
Green islands, rising high out of the sea, were seen in every di
rection. To the left, between two islands, was a harbor, called the
Typa, full of vessels, both of European and Chinese construction,
and around were raany ships riding at anchor. The town of Ma
cao was stretched along the shore of a deep cove, sheltered by
high land in the rear. A church, dedicated to our Lady, much time-
worn, stands on a high rock, to the left, like a small garrison in an
enemy's country; and on another eminence, or rather headland, are
seen a fortress and wall, marking the limits of the Portuguese pos
sessions. The day after our arrival, through the kind assistance of Mr. Wil
liam S. Wetmore, we obtained a large house, in an airy situation,
which was quickly converted into an hospital for the accommodation
of the sick of both vessels. The 28th of May proved to be clear, and
all of those officers and men whose situation was considered danger
ous were moved on shore, and made as comfortable as kind attention
and ample means would permit.
In the memory of the toils and anxieties necessarily attending on
the circumstances in which we were placed at that time, is mingled

KINDNESS OF THE ENGLISH  DEATH OF LIEUT. CAMPBELL. 371
a grateful recollection of the active sympathies of the British resi
dents, who were ever ready to assist us, and whose untiring hospi
tality leaves us a debt which we never can, but shall always wish to
pay. To Sir George Best Robinson, Bart., H. B. M. Chief Superin
tendent of British trade in China, to T. R. Colledge, Esq., Surgeon,
the Rev. G. H. Vachell, Chaplain of the establishment, we are par
ticularly obliged.*
On the Sundays, while we remained, divine service was performed.
at the hospital, by the Rev. Peter Parker, M. D., American mission
ary, and the Rev. Charles Gutzlaff, lately a missionary, but, at pre
sent, second interpreter to the British commercial establishment —
(with a pretty salary of £800 a year.)
But human effort is not equal to contend against the immutable
laws which govern our organization, nor to restore it in every in
stance from a deranged to a normal condition. It has been decreed,
from the beginning, that man must die, and, at the same time, that
he shall seek to avoid Death, yet, double as we may, he hunts us
down at last. We may give a tear to a departed friend, but let us
not murmur against the Divine hand which gathers him frora us to a
brighter world. Our sympathies are raore required by the living, who
mourn the loss of son, husband, father, or brother.
On the 3d of June, Lieutenant Archibald S. Campbell, command
ing the U. S. schooner Enterprise, fell a victim to disease, contracted
at Bankok, which he bore with a fortitude becoming an officer. He
was an amiable and worthy gentleman, and, as such, lamented by us
all. In token of respect, a monument v/as erected over his remains,
which were deposited in the British burial ground, with the sacred
and military honors befitting the rank of the deceased. The stone
bears, on opposite sides, the following inscriptions: —
"THE REMAINS OP
ARCHIBALD S. CAMPBELL, Esq.,
WHO DIED AT MACAO, IN COMMAND OF THE U. S. SCHOONER
ENTERPRISE, JUNE 3, 1836."
* This very expensive establishment, for the superintendence of British trade
in China, has been abolished since we left Macao.

372 DEATH OF MR. ROBERTS.

'ERECTED TO THE MEMORY

LIEUTENANT- COMMANDANT ARCHIBALD S. CAMPBELL,
BY THE OFriCEKS
OF THE
U. S. SHIP PEACOCK AND U. S. SCHOONER ENTERPRISE,
1836."
A few days more, and another fellow voyager was gathered to his
fathers. Edmund Roberts, Esq., Special Agent of the United States,
died at the residence of Mr. William S. Wetmore, at Macao, on the
12th day of June.
A long exposure in the climates of the East, actively engaged in
the service of his country, proved too much for his age and constitu
tion. He had been long out of health, and, at Bankok, was attacked
with the prevailing disease, which he at first neglected, through his
desire to lose no time in discharging the duties which had brought
him to Siam.
Mr. Roberts had the honor of negotiating and concluding the trea
ties which have been given in a former part of this volume; and in
this, proved himself useful to his country, without reaping a full
reward. Making a good commercial treaty, is not among the least difficult
negotiations in diplomatic transactions, and few men combine all
the qualifications for such a task. " Besides a general knowledge of
the trade and reciprocal interests of the contracting parties, he
ought to be acquainted with their several kinds of industry and skill;
to discover their wants, to calculate their resources, and to weigh
with nicety the state of their finances, and the proportionate interest
of their money: nay, farther, he should be able to ascertain the com
parative population and strength of each country, together with the
price and quality both of first materials, and also of the labor be
stowed upon thera: for this purpose he should inquire into the ope
rations of every class of merchants and manufacturers concerned in
the trade; should consult their expectations on each of its several
branches; and collect their hopes and fears on the effect of each

MONUMENT ERECTED TO MR. ROBERTS. 373
commercial revolution, on the competition of rival nations. A good
treaty of commerce, independent of the art of negotiation, is pro
nounced by one who well knew the extent and difficulty of the sub
ject, to be a " master piece of skill."*
In honor of his meraory a stone was placed over his remains,
bearing on the opposite faces, the following inscriptions.
"THE REMAINS
OF
EDMUND ROBERTS, ESQ.,
SPECIAL DIPLOMATIC AGENT TO SEVERAL ASIATIC COURTS,
WHO DIED AT MACAO, JUNE, 12tH, 1836.
He devised and executed, to their end, under Instructions from his
Government, Treaties of Jlmity and Commerce, between
the United States and the Courts of
Muscat and Siam."
"ERECTED
TO THE MEMORY

3B>mmti JElotJ^rts, Esq.,

PORTSMOUTH, NEW HAMPSHIRE, BV THE AMERICAN
MERCHANTS, RESIDENT IN CHINA."
The simple inscriptions of these monuments, tell us, that both
gentlemen died, far from their families and homes, but not un-
mourned, nor without the sympathies and respect of those around
them. Their loss cast a shade of melancholy over us all, and produced
several changes in the squadron. But owing to a happy circum
stance in the constitution of the human mind, of speedily becoming
* Historical and Political Remarks on the Tariff of the French Treaty, by Mr.
Eden, afterwards Lord Auckland, quoted in M'CuUoch's " Confimercial Dic
tionary." London, 1835.

374 CHINESE EDICT IN RELATION
reconciled to whatever is inevitable, the depression had worn away
when the vessels again put to sea, with the sick reduced in number,
and those who were npt yet well, very much benefited by the short
stay at Macao. We had been subject, too long, to the influence of
the tropics in the narrow confines of a ship, and had suffered too
severely from a succession of epidemics, to recover entirely in the
short period of three weeks.
During our sojourn in China, we were constantly under the care
ful surveillance of the Chinese. Whenever a boat landed from the
ship, a petty mandarin was at hand to take note of all who came or
went. And the hospital was carefully watched, and we were often
asked when we were to depart The lively interest excited among
the Chinese by our' presence, attributable rather to their suspicious
fears than benevolent sympathies, may be gathered from the follow
ing document, addressed to the American Consul.
i' To Mr. Snow:
" We beg to inform you we have received a communication from the
Hoppo, with orders to make known to you its contents, which are
that the cruisers, Sze-kin-lun and Kum-mar be ordered to depart
frora their anchorage and return to their own country, the moment
their sick sailors have recovered their health, as they will not be per
mitted to loiter where they are, which raight give rise to business.
" For these reasons we make this known; and with compliments
remain, — HOWQUA, SuNSHING,
MowquA, MlNGqUA,
PWANKEQUA, FoOTAI,
GowqUA, AssowquA,
KlNGQ.UA,
Taou-Kwang, 16th year, 4th Moon, and 20th day, (June 3d, 1836.)
" Wan Hoppo, &c., &c., to the Hong merchants. — A despatch has
been received' from the Wei-Yuen of Macao, stating that he had
been informed by the pilots, Chang-Too-Fang and Yang-Yuh-Tae,
that on the 13th day of the 4th moon, 16th jear of Taou-Kwang, the
American cruisers, Kum-mar and Sze-kin-lun, anchored in the
offing near the Nine Islands, and on inquiring of the captains of the
two vessels, the reason for so doing, they were informed, that they
were frora their own country on a voyage to other ports, but that
contrary winds had forced them to anchor where they then were,
and that they had no special object in view. In addition to this, they

c.

- 60 Sailors,

.D.

15 CO

10 Great guns,

CO

."

50 Muskets,

50 Two-edged swords.

1

500 Catties powder.

^

Ui

- 500 Cannon balls.

1)N
CO

TO THE PEACOCK AND ENTERPRISE. 375
took a correct account of the force of these vessels, which is sub
mitted, and is thus: — ¦190 Sailors,
22 Great guns,
100 Muskets,
100 Two-edged swoi-ds,
800 Catties powder,
, 800 Cannon balls.
" Strict orders were given to the pilots to keep up a guard over
these ships, and control them well, and haste was made to coramu-
nicate this information.
" Another despatch was soon received, stating, in addition to what
had been communicated, relative to the two American cruisers,
Kum-raar and Sze-kin-lun, having anchored near the Nine Islands,
the pilots had farther made known, in a communication of the 14th
day, that three boats from the cruisers, containing fifty -two men,
had on that day pulled into the landing at Praya Grande, and on
examination they discovered, that of these men, thirty -seven belonged
to the cruiser Sze-kin-lun, and fifteen to the cruiser Kum-mar;
moreover, that these men had all becorae sick on board their ships,
being removed on shore to Macao, to dwell in houses, and receive
medical treatment and advice, and it was intended to take them
again on board, when they had recovered.
" The sailors had the appearance of being sick, and none were
strong or robust. " We again enjoined watchfulness, and to make
known every circurastance."
" While in the act of deliberating upon these news, I received a
coraraunication from the Governor, stating that on the 15th day of
the 4th moon of the 16th year of Taou-Kwang, he had received a de
spatch from the Admiral, which made known: — That Sen-keen-ching
the Hee of Hang-Shan had received an express from Yu-ching-ting,
acting Pa-Tseang, which states, on the 13th day of the present moon,
two foreign vessels were seen to come in from sea, and anchor near
the Nine Islands, and that the pdot above named, immediately re
ported that they were Araerican cruisers; that the largest was naraed
Sze-kin-lun, and carried a crew of one hundred and ninety raen,
that the force was twenty -two great guns, one hundred muskets, one
hundred sharp-edged swords, eight hundred catties powder, and eight
hundred cannon balls. That the smallest was naraed Kum-mar, —
her crew consisted of sixty men, her force was ten great guns, fifty

\
376 CHINESE EDICT.
muskets, fifty two-edged swords, five hundred catties powder, and
five hundred cannon balls; and on inquiring the reasons of their an-
anchoring where they were, the captains replied, that they were from
their own country, bound to other parts; but that contrary winds had
forced them to their anchorage, and that they had no special object in
view. By farther investigation, it was discovered that Sze-kin-lun,
the largest vessel, had three masts, that she was about fourteen changs
long, and three changs broad. On either side she had bulwarks pierced
for twelve guns, but eleven only were raounted. The small ship was
about seven changs long, and two changs broad : on either side she had
bulwarks also, pierced for five guns, and these were all mounted.
Both ships were quiet at anchor.
"These statements are similar, but the dispositions of foreigners are
unfathomable, and it became necessary to order out many war-
junks to keep a strict watch, as well as to send an officer to order
them at once to leave the port, and not to loiter about, and report
their different movements. Now these two American cruisers, ar
riving at so early a period, and anchoring where they are, is duly
made known.
" This coming before me (the Admiral) I find on examination that
these foreign cruisers, have heretofore arrived about the 6th moon,
either as convoy to, or to protect vessels trading with the port;
but these two cruisers, thus strangely coming in, and anchoring
merely frora contrary winds, leads me to doubt their intentions.
Orders were consequentiy issued to the various war-junks of the
right and left, and centre divisions, to keep up a strict guard. I
have also ordered instant preparation of the forts and garrison for
defence, and also returned an answer to Sen-king-ting, requiring
him to keep a constant look-out; On no account to allow boats to
comraunicate with the vessels, for the purposes of buying or selling;
likewise to insist upon their setting sail, as consequences might arise
from their loitering about.
" Uniting with this intelligence,' the report made by the Hee of
Hang-Shan, I have replied to all in ordering an active guard to be
enforced, all the naval forces of the three divisions to be in readiness,
and the forts on the great Tiger -Island, Wang-tong, Sha-keo and
Ta-kes, and other defences of the river, to be put in a state of de
fence, — to inquire again into the reasons which led these cruisers
here, whether their statement is correct, whether they really came
from America, or if they have been driven here from other pro
vinces; at the same time upon no account to allow thera to remain, to

CHINESE EDICT. 877
discover also to what other places they are going, and if they have a
design to enter the port, let the truth be discovered, and every thing
in readiness to act, as circumstances may require. They must not
be allowed to enter the port, or the consequences may be severe;
and should they design to go towards the coast, intelligence must
precede them, that preparation may be made to keep them off.
" These various statements coming before me, the Hoppo, I find,
that as these vessels are not trading vessels, it is inconvenient for
them to remain where they are, as disturbances raight arise, yet, as
many of their sailors are sick, and have been removed to houses at
Macao for medical advice, in addition to giving orders to the Wey-
yuen and pilots at Macao, to watch them strictiy, and when they
have recovered, to insist upon their being carried back to their ships,
that they may return to their own country. I also issue this to the Hong
merchants, that they may immediately make known to the superin
tendent of affairs of that country, that so soon as the sick men have
recovered, it is necessary that they be taken back to their ships, un
furl their saUs and return home; they will not be permitted to delay
and loiter about, and the day of their departure must be made known.
Hasten, hasten ! A Special Edict.
"Taou-Kwang, 16th year, 4th moon, 20th day. June 3d, 1836."
The Peacock, after landing the sick, sailed for the anchorage of
Kum-sing-moon, opposite to Lintin, for the purpose of taking in
Water and provisions; the Enterprise remained at Macao a few days
longer.

CHAPTER XXXvl.

SKETCHES IN CHINA.

June, 1836.
In the appearance of Macao from the roads, there is something to
temind one of Rio de Janeiro, without thfere being any thing, which
48

378

MACAO.

is particularly semblable. After having been so long from any
Christian settlement, we looked upon it with pleasure, probably
arising frora the hope of relief which it promised for the sick; and
this feeling was rendered more gratifying, by the hospitalities and
attentions extended to us on all hands. I landed on the afternoon
of our arrival, and was agreeably surprised to find the place superior
to its appearance from the ship. It is clean, and there is an air of
snugness and quiet, attributable to the almost entire absence of com
merce, which gives an appearance of the unmolested retirement of
those, who fly here at certain seasons, from the drudgery of business
and the confinement of the close factories at Canton.
The houses are built on a curve, following the sweep of the shore,
with a broad terrace in front; they are two stories high, in the Por
tuguese ?tyle, with large windows for ventilation, shaded by Veni
tian shutters. Penetrating the town frora the playa, we find the
streets crossing each other irregularly, now rising abruptly and again
descending, and roughly paved with broken pebbles.
Macao was founded early in the sixteenth century, on a peninsula
of an island, called Heanshang, a short distance from the southern
shore of China.
This site was originally granted by the Chinese emperor, in con
sequence of important services rendered by the Portuguese at that
period. A celebrated Chinese pirate named Tchang-si-lao had be
come so powerful, as to get possession and hold this island, whence
he distrained the commerce of China, and blockaded the port of
Canton. In their difficulties the mandarins sought and obtained aid
of the Portuguese, who were theu trading at Sanshan, a town about
fifty miles south-west of Macao, giving the gold of Africa, the spices
of the Moluccas, and the ivory and gems of Ceylon, in exchange for
the silks and teas of the celestial empire. They quickly gained a
coraplete victory over the pirate, who, it is said, committed suicide
in consequence, and the emperor, in token of his gratitude, presented
the peninsula to the Portuguese, which afterwards became of great
advantage in the trade, which they established with Japan, Cochin-
China and Siam.* But the prosperity of Macao, following the for
tunes of the mother country, has fallen, and is now of little impor
tance to the Portuguese.
A wall, built in 1573, separates the Portuguese possessions from
* Establecimientos Ultramarinos. Chinese Repository, vol. iii..

POPULATION. 379
the Chinese, leaving thera a space of one mile by three, but their
jurisdiction is not even here exclusive. There is a Portuguese go
vernor, and a garrison of about two hundred raen, kept in good dis
cipline; but the Chinese have also their mandarins, who exercise all
the various functions of office. The only privilege the Portuguese
possess, is that of governing themselves; while the Chinese papu
lation of the town is entirely under the control of the mandarins.
The Portuguese pay regularly an annual ground-rent of .500 taels
for the temporary use and profit of Macao.
The population of Macao is estimated at twenty-five thousand,
of which twenty thousand are Chinese.

Portuguese Population of MaCao, in 1835.
Free white Females.
From birth to 7 years old, 355
7 to 15 " 345
" 15 " 30 " 643
" 30 " 60 " 600
" 60 and upwards. 139

2082

Free white Males.
From birth to 7 years old, 277
" 7 to 15 " 322
" 15 " 30 " 417
« 30 " 60 " 381
" 60 and upwards. 41

Slaves.
Males, 448
Females. 836

1438

1284

Total Portuguese pop. {fSes,^!:} "804
Marriages, in 1835 48
Baptisms, " " 142
Deaths, " " 127

380 MORALS  CLIMATE  AVIARY.
The annual mortality, then, is 2.64 per cent., or about one in 38,
which is less than that of most of the cities of Europe; in Paris,
Strasburg and Barcelona, it is one in 32; in Rome 1 in 25, in Am
sterdam, 1 in 24 and in Vienna, 1 in 22J, while in London, it is 1
in 40,*
A large portion of the baptisms are of illigitimate children. The
proportion of males to females is very unequal, and the mass of the
population is wretchedly poor, which may account for the absence
of chastity, said to prevail. We were told that mothers unhesita
tingly sell their daughters into concubinage, at very low prices, and
often degrade them by forcing them to marry Chinese.
In this view of the population, neither the troops, nor the inmates
of convents, friars and nuns, are included. In 1822, the popula
tion was 4315, showing an increase of 489 in 13 years.
Macao is exposed, during the summer months, to severe hurricanes,
called typhoons, which occur almost every year, and occasionally
leave fearful marks of their violence: windows are sometimes blown
in, roofs carried away,'and tiie very white- wash and plastering are
occasionally swept off from the outside of the walls, leaving the
town in a wretchedly piebald condition. While we remained, there
occurred several storms accompanied by rain, lightning and thunder,
and in one, two persons were killed in the streets. But with all this,
it is remarkably healthy, and provisions of all kinds are abundant
and cheap. It is a favprite resort for invalids from all parts of India,
who generally find a short residence here of great advantage. Ves
sels from Batavia usually arrive in a sickly condition, and depart
again with their crews very much improved in health, for which they
have been heretofore indebted as much to the kind and skilful atten
tions of Dr. T. R. Colledge, as to the salutary influence of tbe
climate. There are several public buildings and churches in Macao, but I
did not find leisure to examine them.
Among the most interesting spots here is the aviary of Mr. Beal,
an English .merchant, ^yho has been long a resident, It contains a
variety of birds, among which is a bird of paradise; but we were dis
appointed to find it was not in feather at this season. It has a keen
eye, and is bold and rapid in its motions. It is kept separate, in a
large wire cage, into \yhich a s.ervant was tossing insects; the bird
never allowed them to fall to the bottom of his habitation, ,a!ways
• HawJ;in<i' Medical Slatistics.

CAVE OF CAMOENS. 381
catching them very skilfully in his strong beak. One regrets that so
much beauty and fierceness should be united, as there is in this and
many other instances in nature. A splendidly feathered krokatoa,
of very large size, swung in a hoop, beneath the shade of a tree in
front of the aviary; and a gibbon and a monkey were chained hard by.
A great variety of flowers, in pots, and shrubs and trees formed
the garden, where there is a miniature representation of time-worn,
craggy rocks, a species of work for which the Chinese are celebrated.
It stood on one side of a littie pool of gold fish and silver fish, with
double tails, which were seen shooting through the tiny caves and
fissures at its base. The aviary, or great bird cage, encloses two
trees, more than twenty feet high, and has, within it, sundry smaller
apartments; and, in one corner, is another specimen of rock-work,
with a pool at its base, for the use of individuals of the duck tribe.
Within this wire prison a variety of small singing birds carroled as
blitiiely as if their songs were the songs of liberty; gold and silver
pheasants strutted about vauntingly in the pride of beauty, unmind
ful of their durance; the crown pigeon, as large as a peacock, with a
high crest of feathers spread out like a fan, sat high upon a limb, to
attract attention; ducks of various kinds chatted amicably in the pool;
partridges and quails, at our approach, skulked away beneath the
bushes, and the startled moose deer of Java, fled over the ornamental
rock work, the diminutive size of the aniraal being in perfect keeping
with the tiny crags and ravines, among which it sought to hide. All
Iiere lived harmoniously together; but the squalling, quarrelsome dis
position of the parrots excluded them from fellowship with the rest.
They were kept far enough apart to prevent them from blows; but, ne
vertheless, like a set of termagants, they contended at a distance, no
doubt mutually bestowing very harsh epithets, if we might judge frora
their tones. Pretty polly is, like certain maidens, only amiable when
solitary, or enjoying the undivided attention of those around her.
The cave of Camoens, the celebrated author of the Lusiad, is situ
ated in the rear of the town, in a garden, where the gravel walks,
shaded by trees, follow the sloping hills in such a manner as to
seemingly multiply the extent of the grounds. The spot called the
cave, which term conveys a very erroneous notion of it, is on a height.
It consists of two perpendicular rocks, standing on the brow ofa hill,
about two feet apart, and each ten feet high. A heavy rock rests
transversely on the top of them, like the lintel of a ponderous door
frame. The cave is two feet wide, by five long, and open at both

382 BRITISH BURYING-GROUND.
sides. Here, it is asserted, ^he poet communed with nature, and
poured forth the inspirations of his muse —
" Here repair
Many familiar with his well sung woes, '
The pilgrims of his genius."
Upon the transverse rock is erected a light summer house, accessi
ble by an ascent from the garden. It commands the view of an ex
tensive prospect and beautiful scenery, including, on one side, the
inner harbor and the Chinese burial-ground, which is comparable to
a common, full of misshapen rocks; on the other, the outer harbor;
and between the two, the town of Macao, below, affording a bird's-
eye view of its several streets and buildings.
The British burial-ground is in the neighborhood, and is kept in
neat order by the Superintendents' chaplain, who, regarding it much
in the light ofa cabinet of curiosities, never willingly permits a spe
cimen to be deposited without being properly labelled, and marked
by cubes of Portland stone, or marble, for the amusement of those
who delight to wander among the tombs, not always with a view,
however, to brighten their morals from the rottenness of the grave.
We may gather some notion how raany worldly hopes and aspira
tions have been concluded here, from the pompous show of grief for
the departed, recorded, in marble, by the living, because more tena
cious than the natural memory of ordinary men.
To glance back from the last resting place, to the living world; —
The Portuguese in Macao have preserved their national fondness for
music and society. The piano and guitar are heard from the houses
in almost every street at night, and on one occasion, I met a mas-
quing party, bound upon a serenade. It consisted of a dozen indi
viduals, grotesquely dressed, the females, as I was told, being repre
sented by young members of the other sex, marching in procession
accompanied by music, and the occasional discharge of fire works,
and followed by a crowd of admiring rabble. Another evidence of
fondness of amusement, I saw in a company of amateurs who enacted
plays and parts of operas, with much credit to themselves.
The females, seen on their way, to and from church, have strongly
the appearance of being grand-mammas, and, to judge alone from
their costume, so far is it in the rear of fashion, that one might ima
gine no innovation had been made in a hundred years. They wear
loose figured calico gowns and mantos or scarfs over their heads.

SOCIETY  SCENES IN THE STREETS. 383
and are usually followed by a slave bearing an umbrella, and a rug
whereupon to kneel before the shrine at which they worship.
Like most Spanish and Portuguese towns, this has a place of com
raon and general resort, in the " praya," facing the bay. In the
evening ladies are seen here, in sedan chairs, taking the sea air, and
gentlemen promenading for the sake of exercise. Wheel carriages
are unknown, and the space for riding on horseback is very limited.
There is a very agreeable European society shut up in Macao,
almost from the world. The ladies are left here, often for months
together, while their lords are toiling for cash in the factories and
close atmosphere of Canton. This is usually the case in the season
of trade, from June till March or April.
On landing at Macao for the first time, from a christian country,
one is struck with the sight of many novelties. Chinese servants in
white cotton leggings, secured at the knee with a blue silk garter;
wooden soled shoes, full white breeches, white frock falling below
the hips and buttoned over on the left breast; more remarkable,
however, for the shaven front and long tail of hair almost sweeping
the ground, and the imperturbable quiet and self-possession written
on the countenance, are seen, here and -there sauntering before a
gentleman's door. Now and then you pass a pair of brawny limbed
coolies, staggering under the weight of a box or bale suspended from
a bamboo between them, clothed in blue shirts, short trowsers and
straw or glazed flats, tied under the chin to shelter them, either from
sun or rain. Again, you may encounter an individual sauntering
along, now and then casting a glance at the houses, and startling
you with a whur, made by separating, with the thumb, the legs of a
pair of coarse tweezers, and causing them to vibrate violently as he
swings his hand. This is the barber, announcing his presence, and
readiness to perform the depilatory operation a la Chinoise, for any
who may need this service.
Before leaving Macao I visited a Chinese school, taught by the
(lately) missionary, the Rev. Mr. Gutzlaff and his wife. There
were seventeen pupils reciting their lessons in turn, conveying to
my unaccustomed ear, a sound resembling that of a siraraering tea
kettle. I was interested in a chUd, totally blind, that was telling
the alphabet to Mrs. G., who seems to be devoted to her pupils. It
may be proper to state, that though Mr. Gutzlaff, strictly speaking,
is no longer a missionary, he devotes all his leisure to laboring ac
tively in the cause.
He introduced to jne three Japanese youths who had been wrecked

384

on the Pacific eoast of .America, and afterwards found their way to
China, on their route to Japan. From them he had gained a collo
quial facility in their language, which he hopes some day to turn to
account in visiting that strange country.*

CHAPTER XXXVII.
SKETCHES IN CHINA.
June, 1836.
On the fifth of June, I determined to accompany a gentleman in
a " fast-boat," to Kum-sing-moon, where the Peacock was lying at
anchor, to join there a party going to Canton. At the place of em
barkation, we were interrupted by a surly young mandarin, who, ac
cording to usage, deraanded a dollar of each of us previous to going
afloat; a tax levied on all foreigners who have not their own, or ae
the Cljinese express it, ' Europe boat,' to carry them off. The man
darin treated us with an air of contemptuous condescension, and ex
amined our dollars very carefully, first rejecting one and then ano
ther, because he found some point or figure more worn than pleased
his fancy. At last we cut short his examination, by leaving him the
sum in hand, putting the rest into our pockets.
While we were thus engaged, the tindal or commander of the ' fast-
boat,' engaged by our comprador, Hardfacey, had called for a sam
pan, a short, flat boat with a bamboo cover. Sampans here are navi
gated exclusively by woraen, and are used as passage boats from the
shore to ghips in the roads. Their shape is not unlike the half of a
water-melon. Each one is usually managed by three Tartar wo
men, who are short, stout, ugly viragos, and live in their boat, which
they keep remarkably clean; the wood being daily scoured with sand,
* A mission ship has lately sailed from Macao for Japan, with these persons
on board.

FAST-BOAT. 385
wears the cleanly appearance of a well kept milk-pail. An oar, made of
two pieces, one end lapping the other in the centre, resting at tills point
upon the round head of an iron pin in the stern, extends into the water:
one end, is constantly beneath its surface, while the other is connect
ed by a long rattan to the bottom of the boat. The chief of the wo
men stands on one side of the oar, and pushes it backwards and for
wards, or rather frora side to side; which, frora the mode of the con
trivance, causes the oar-blade to turn so as to offer itself diagonally
to the water, and produce the effects of a skull. A second oar is
pulled by a woman, sitting on a low stool nearthe bow. Their cos
tume consists of a pair of broad pantaloons, of a black stuff which
turns water, worn under a long blue Nankin frock or jacket, fitting
closely round the neck, and a handkerchief, folded diagonally, is
worn over the head and tied under the chin. The passengers are ac
commodated with stools in the centre of the boat.
The call for a sampan brought a half dozen to the beach, from their
place of anchorage, a short distance off; all, eager for employment,
plying their skill to reach the shore first, and at the same time calling
out, " my boat, good boat; me know you, sir." Some of these water
nymphs had very white teeth, which they displayed, wreathed in
smiles, in order to obtain our custom. One was at last selected, and
we were soon alongside of the 'fast boat,' our women shouting tri
umph over their competitors, who retorted most lustily, until we were
beyond ear-shot; but, fortunately for us, perhaps, in a language we
did not comprehend.
One raight imagine that the fast-boat obtained its name frora its
qualities of swiftness. This one was a rude vessel of ten or eleven
tons, with a single mast of bamboo, on which a coarse mat sail was
hoisted. The interior was comfortless in the last degree, offering no
other accommodation than some rush mats spread in the hold, to which
we were invited to descend. No sooner was she under way, and her
side offered to a stiff breeze, than she began to careen fearfully, and
dance merrily over the waves. A small box of large pebbles stood
in the stern, by way of moveable ballast, or arms and ammunition to
fight their way, in event of being opposed.
On reaching the roads, we were rejoiced to find the Enterprise
just about to sail for Kum-singrmoon, and got quickly on board with
out regretting the exchange of quarters. In a few minutes she was
put before the wind, and, passing several vessels in the track, an
chored close to the Peacock, about four o'clock, P. M.
Kum- sing-moon is the anchorage of vessels trading to Canton,
49

386 CONSUMPTION OF OPIUM IN CHINA.
during the S. W. monsoon, the season of typhoons, and is considered
more safe than that at Lintin, which is at no great distance. Either at
one or at theother, one or two vessels remain throughout the year, used
as depots for the opium of India, whence it is smuggled into China, in
very large amounts, affording those who engage in the trade, ample
profits; and, if they be not too frequently unsuccessful in their smug
gling expeditions, large fortunes are speedily acquired. The use, or
rather, the intemperate abuse of opium among the Chinese is not less
baleful in its effects, than are those of alcoholic spirits among chris
tians. Strong edicts are frequently issued by the emperor against
its introduction, and occasionally boats are caught and the opium con
fiscated. The inferior officers of the customs, employed to prevent
this trade, find their interest in conniving at it, and now and then
only, assuming a virtue they have not, making a seizure to keep up
an appearance of vigilant honesty.
The India opium, from Patna, Benares, and Malwa, finds its way
frora the deposite ships to all parts of China. Its price varies, accord
ing to the quality, from $500 to $800 the chest, of lbs. 133^, the old
being considered most profitable. The quantity consumed, and its
estimated value for nine years, is stated in the following table, from
which we may conjecture the number of opium eaters in the celestial
empire.
Estimate of the Quantity and Value of India Opium, consumed
IN ChiIja for nine Years.
Chests. Value in Dollars.
Season. 1827-28, < 11,111, 10,425,075,
1828-29, ' 11,409, 12,533,105,
1829-30, 15,643, 12,057,157,
1830-31, 20,108, 12,904,263,
1831-32, 15,823, 11,501,584,
1832-33, 21,279, 15,352,429,
1833-34, 20,213i, 11,006,605,
1834-35, 21,653, 11,758,779,
1835-36, 26,200, 17,106,903.
About six o'clock, P. M. our party got on board ofa pilot boat schoo
ner, comfortably arranged for passengers, being one of several, which
form a packet line between Macao and Canton. One leaves each
place daily, according to the newspaper, but there is no regularity in
their departure. They are all manned by Hindoos or Bombaymen,
who conduct their vessels with skill and propriety.

the BOCA -TIGRIS  LORD NAPIER. 387
We got under way iu a heavy rain, and it speedily became dark,
leaving us to pass the time, in the cabin, either in conversation or
sleep. At seven o'clock the next morning we anchored; the tide was
against us, and it had fallen calm. We were in sight of the Boca-
Tigris, or Bogue, which the Chinese consider to be the mouth of
Pearl River, on the north bank of which is seated the commercial ca
pital of the celestial empire.
The Bogue is defended by two forts, built witiiout those precautions
which are indicative of military science and skill. It is the site of most
of the wars, waged between foreign navies and the Chinese; and its his
torical importance has been lately enhanced by the blundering ex
ploits of the late Lord Napier, who, in consequence of failing in his
objects, died of chagrin; and not by any atrocious cruelty of the Chi
nese, as has been, we are sorry to think, somewhat maliciously al
leged. A perusal of the English reports of this matter, leads us to
suppose, they are purposely couched in bombastic grandiloquence, in
imitation of Chinese edicts, to excite a strong feeling at home, and
induce the king and parliament, to batter the forts and houses about
the ears of the inhabitants, in revenge for not being permitted to
break with impunity the Chinese customs and laws. How far they
will succeed, time will discover.
His Excellency, Governor Loo, managed the affair as he would
have done a game of chess. Looking forward to his object, he dis
regarded the pawns and smaller pieces, which may represent the
' broadcloths, carablets, and watches,' as 'unworthy a serious thought,'
and pushed ray lord until he was checkraated. In vain raay Eng
land, in conformity with the petition of her merchants resident at
Canton, endeavor to wipe away the disgrace of the foil. Her force
cannot do any serious injury to China, as a nation, though she may
destroy millions of property and human lives; because, in China, hu
manity does not enter into the policy of her government, and, in all
probability, it would cost England more, in life and treasure, than
the trade she might afterwards obtain therefor would be worth; and
it will take cunning argument to induce the Emperor to wipe from
his records, that the British king had submissively sent him tribute.
Nor can she hope to gain much by negotiation. So much treachery
has marked the political intercourse of England with the East, from
the beginning, we ought not to be surprised, that those nations not al
ready in her grasp distrust every overture of amity proffered from
her. A very small proportion of the three hundred and sixty millions of

388

LORD NAPIER.

China care little whether England sends them broadcloths, camlets
and watches, or not; and they feel assured that England must have
tea, silk, and rhubarb. And, in spite of the millions of Chinese who
depend on commerce for subsistence, they think the nation can do
better without foreign intercourse than foreign nations can without
their trade. They have learned, too, that their trade is so important
to foreigners, they have heretofore invariably gained the ascendency
by interrupting it, always more successful in their contests by an ap
peal to the pocket than to arms; thus proving the assertion of a great
English writer, that "Nothing dejects a trader like the interruption
of his profits. A commercial people, however magnanimous, shrinks
at the thought of declining trade, and an unfavorable balance."* The
English merchants will probably find it their interest to submit to the
terms of the Chinese for the next half century, or sacrifice the trade.
It seems out Of the question to attempt to gain privileges here by
force. Heretofore they have been invariably foiled. To be success
fully exercised against the Chinese government, the force must be
grand, perhaps equal to one-fourth of the collected power of England,
and brought forth deliberately, without anticipating much from coup
de main warfare; and "a commercial people, however magnani
mous," can do without national glory, when there is no certainty of
obtaining it speedily, and, at the same time, with a favorable balance.
The knightly lance and the leger are never quartered in the same
heraldric field. Had they followed a more simple course, and re
mained satisfied, after the expiration of the Company's charter, with
sending to Canton the lowest grade of consul, without parade or os
tentation, the trade would not have been interrupted, the nation
would have been spared the mortification which Lord Napier's ex
pulsion must have occasioned, and the twenty-five thousand pOunds
a year, paid, in salaries, to those of the Superintendent establish
ment, might have been appropriated to some more useful purpose.
In corroboration of this opinion, we find that the American consul is
recognised by the authorities at Canton, and all goes on smoothly.
I am glad the Americans there had shrewdness enough to pursue
a course of policy in the late affair, which kept their interests dis
tinct from those of the English; for neither party would haye gained
by the union: besides, however close their connexions in social inter
course and individual friendship ought to be, commercial and national
interest must be a thing apart. No man should forget his nationality.
• Taxation no Tyranny.

CHINESE REPOSITORY. 389
To do SO, for an instant, is to be recreant to his country, and to prove
himself unworthy to retread her sod. Still, I would not have him
forget the maxim, "a Rome comme a Rome," but, when he cannot,
with propriety, conform to the laws and customs of the country he
visits, let him retire to another, or seek his native skies, without ex
pecting to change a nation's custoras and policy to suit his peculiar
views. " J'aime qu'un Russe soit Husse,
Et qu'un Anglais soit Anglais.
Si Ton est Prussien en Prusse,
En France soyons Franjais.
* * * * 1:
***** Mes amis, mes amis,
Soyons de notre pays,
Oui, soyons de notre pays."
The third volume of the " Chinese Repository " contains a circum
stantial account of Lord Napier's failure, and of his melancholy
death, with a number, if not all, the documents in relation to the
whole affair. His lordship was a worthy, amiable man; but, unfor
tunately, not of a disposition to meet the temporizing measures which
are the great weapons of the Chinese. We doubt, however, whether
the writer, or writers of those articles be free frora prejudice; for they
are evidently warmed with the subject, almost as much as if it had
been a personal affair of his or their own. They are thoroughly Eng
lish; indeed, the character of the Repository is so entirely British, that
we should never suspect the editor to be an American of the United
States. It is a work that would give reputation to any man, without
considering the benevolent and laudatory objects which it has in
view. Its pages contain more information, in relation to the East,
embodied in a pleasing form, than can be found in the range of many
large libraries. It deserves success, and I should be glad to see its
list of subscribers increase.
The continued calm did not accord with our impatience to reach
Canton. For several hours we had nothing better to do than occupy
ourselves looking at the Bogue and the forts. The scenery is moun
tainous and varied.
Several sampans approached, skulling and rowing. Their navi
gators were talking loudly, and, when not bickering among them
selves, they levelled their abuse at us, the tone of which was alone

390 PASSAGE UP PEARL RIVER.
comprehensible. The youngest of the crew was always in the bows;
and, when there were children on board, they held out their hands,
crying " Cumshaw — present."
About three o'clock in the afternoon, the tide being favorable, we
got under way with a very light breeze, and slowly passed the Bogue,
where the Chinese gunnery astonished the Imogen and Andromache.
By ten o'clock, we had reached the anchorage at Whampoa, forty le
or twelve railes frora Canton, where we were again obliged to anchor.
The flood tide, at two o'clock the next morning, brought with it a
light wind, and we again made sail. Daylight came gradually on,
and discovered, on our right, low meadow land, verdant with rice
plants, and fringed to the water's edge with shrubbery. In the back
ground, where not concealed by their vapory clouds floating between
us and their summits, the mountains rose in broken and undulating
outline against the sky. The stream was pressed by numerous sam
pans, and cargo or chop boats of large size, moving in different di
rections. As the sun rose, the scene grew more animated, and his
increasing beams seemed to infuse new life into those laboring at the
oar. Two chop boats of not less than a hundred tons, propelled by
three large skulls over the stern, each managed by one or two men,
were side by side, trying their speed. They glided swiftly along,
and the rowers were in high spirits, who, for the sake of coolness,
wore nothing but a pair of loose short drawers. One of them rushed
across the deck of his vessel, always tossing a leg in the air behind
him, as he gave a sudden and strong impulse to his oar in pushing it
from him, before applying his force in the opposite direction. The
race was pretty equal for some time, until a more than ordinarily
energetic push broke ray raan's oar: there was a boisterous laugh, and
the other boat glided a-head.
We were now in sight of two tall towers, divided into several sto-
,ries by corridors or roofs, turning up in points. They are white, but
in many places have patches of green vegetation upon them, impart
ing the appearance of considerable age. They are usually termed
pagodas by foreigners, though they are not resorted to as places of
worship, but appear to have been originally designed for watch tow
ers. " The one, called Hwa-ta, was built more than thirteen hundred
years ago; it has nine stories, is octagonal, and 170 feet in height.
The other called, Kwang-ta, was built in the time of the Tang dy
nasty, which closed, A. D. 906. It is broad at the base and slender
towards the top. Its height is 160 feet. Anciently it was surmount
ed by ' a golden cock, which turned every way with the wind;' but

approach to THE CITY OF CANTON. 391
that was broken down and carried off to the capital, and its place af
terwards supplied by a wooden one, which long since disappeared."*
We advanced slowly. Every step of our progress was marked by
increasing numbers of boats, plying in different directions. Large
junks, either riding at anchor or skulling with the tide, became raore
frequent. As we drew nearer to the city, vessels with oval or arched
decks, curiously carved, were anchored along the shores. These are
the permanent abodes of many people, and some of them are era-
ployed as salt stores. We had passed a fort, called Howqua's, and
were not far from another, named Dutch Folly. The flags flying in
front of the several factories were now in sight, but the tide was run
ning so strongly against us, we got into one of the many sampans that
had been some time hovering round us, soliciting our custom. We
moved along very comfortably, and soon entered a narrow passage,
between a line of junks, moored head and stern, close to the shore,
and another line at anchor at no great distance. This seemed a per
fect labyrinth of sampans, moving and turning in every direction,
and the confusion was not a little increased, in our minds, by the hura
of voices and rushing of the tide. Yet on we moved, turning now
to the right and now to the left, to avoid sampans passing within a
few inches of us, keeping me in constant apprehension that we should
come in contact and capsize; but the admirable skill of our river
nymphs saved us from all rencontres.
We saw on our way, in the galleries of the junks, or in light flat
boats beautifully fitted and ornamented, Chinese females gaily
dressed, seated in the cabins or apartments, which are tastefully ar-
rano-ed. Some of them we passed very closely and attracted their
attention. We observed that the hair was prettily disposed on the
back part of the head, being formed in an oval braid round a centre
knot, through which was a broad skewer of metal — gold, silver, or
brass — passes to secure the whole. It was nicely oiled, shining,
black, and comparable to a duck's back. The hair was combed back
wards frora the forehead, and, in some instances, a small flower was
so placed as to give a pleasing finish to the head-dress. It was very
perceptible, that they were indebted to the toilet for the roses of
their cheeks; and, in some, the centre of the lower lip was colored of
a bright pink. In spite of their exquisitely long finger nails and am
ple dresses, these demoiselles possess nothing to attract one from the
countries of the West.
After a pull of about two miles through an indescribable scene —
* Chinese Repository.

392

CITY OF CANTON.

Reader, imagine 84,000 boats, either at rest, or moving in all direc
tions, inhabited by men, women and children, the infants having
gourds tied to their backs to buoy them in event of falling overboard,
making up a floating population of not less than one hundred and
fifty thousand; imagine this, and you will then have a very faint idea
of Pearl River, where it passes Canton. We landed, in the midst
of a heavy shower, in front of the factories, and soon entered the
dwellings of our respective friends. The area before the factories,
was occupied, in part, by several huge umbrellas, used as tents to
shelter fruit, &c., offered for sale, under some of which were hud
dled together, some more than half naked China-men, and all drip
ping with rain, while others were hurrying in opposite directions in
search of shelter.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.
SKETCHES IN CHINA.
June, 1836.
Canton, or as it is written on the native maps, Kwang-tung Sang-
ching, that is, "the capital of the province of Kwang-tung," is built
on the northern bank of the Choo-keang or Pearl River, sixty miles
inland from the " great sea," and about eighty from Macao. The
foreign factories, already alluded to, are situated a short distance
frora the south-west corner of the city walls, in 23° 7' 11" north lati
tude, and in 113° 14' 30" east longitude from Greenwich.
The scenery in the neighbourhood of the city is rich and diversified,
but does not present any thing bold or grand. The country to the
north, and north-east, is hilly and mountainous. A wide prospect
opens in every other direction. The numerous rivers and canals
abound with fish, and are covered with an almost endless variety of
boats, which are continually passing to and from the neighboring
towns and villages. Southward from the city, as far as the eye can
seci the waters cover a considerable portion, perhaps one-third of the

CITY OF CANTON. 393
whole surface. Rice fields and gardens occupy the low lands, with
only here and there a few little hills and small groves of trees, rising
up to diversify the otherwise unbroken landscape. The city itself,
including the suburbs, is not of very great extent; and though very
populous, derives its chief importance from its extensive domestic
and foreign trader
The city of Canton is among the oldest in this part of the empire.
It is not easy, and perhaps not possible, to determine its original
site aaid name, or to ascertain at what period it was first built, though
the historians date its foundation about 2,000 years ago.
That part of the city which is within the walls, is built nearly in
the form of a square, and is divided by a wall, running east and
west, into what are termed the old and new city. The streets
aire numerous and very crooked, varying in breadth from two to six
teen feet; but are generally six or eight feet wide, and every where
flagged with large stones, chiefly granite. The entire circuit of the
walls, which are built of sand-stone and bricks, varying in height
from twenty-five to forty feet, and in thickness, frora twenty to
twenty-five, is estimated at about six miles. The walls are pierced by
sixteen small gates, which foreigners are never permitted to pass,
except in case of fire, when their aid is eagerly sought. The suburbs,
taken collectively, are scarcely less populous or less extensive, than
the city itself, and in their general features, are alike.
The foreign factories, or buildings occupied by foreign factors or
merchants, cover a plot of ground, extending about two hundred yards
from east to west, fronting on the river, and a hundred and thirty
yards north and south. They are either of granite or brick, two
stories high, and present a substantial front, which has a veranda,
supported by pillars, the spaces between which, are closed by Veni
tian shutters. They form, with the American and several foreign
flags in front of them, a striking contrast with the scene around.
They face upon an open area, equal to their length, and perhaps
fifty yards wide, which is crossed in front of the buildings, by a
broad pavement, which is stated to be the limits allotted to foreign
ers for taking exercise, though they may be seen pulling on the river
in their own boats, occasionally visiting Honan, and the Fa-tl gar
dens, besides perambulating the streets of the suburbs, and the grounds
about the walls of the city.
The factories are the property of the Hong merchants, a compa
ny of twelve Chinese, through whose medium all intercourse be
tween foreign residents and the Chinese government must take
50

394 HONGS  DOMESTIC LIFE.
place. The factories are thirteen in number, and are styled the
" Thirteen Factories:" besides, each has a name intended to be indi
cative of good fortune. The first, on the east, is the factory of " Jus
tice and Peace," but known to foreigners as the " Creek Factory."
The second, or Dutch, is the " Factory of collected Justice;" the
third, the British, or "Factory that ensures Tranquillity." This is
separated from the fourth, or " The great and affluent Factory," by
a narrow street; the fifth, is the " Old English Factory;" the sixth,
the " Swedish Factory;" the seventh, the " Imperial Factory;" the
eighth, the "Precious and prosperous Factory;" the ninth, the Ame
rican, or the " Factory of wide Fountains." China Street separates
this from the tenth, which is Occupied by a Hong merchant, Mingqua.
The eleventh, is the French; the twelfth the Spanish, and the thir
teenth, separated from the last by New China Street, is the Da
nish. Each of these factories, or, as they are comraonly spoken of in
Cant6n, Hongs, is divided into five or more houses, by narrow courts.
A broad arched way leads through the middle of each Hong, from
front to rear, by which the several houses or factories are accessi
ble. I have given thus much of the topography, for the better under^
standing of my readers, and beg to refer those who desire more local
information, to the second volume of the Chinese Repository, which
I have freely used.
On landing, I entered the '' Imperial Hong," and was met at the
entrance of the thoroughfare by a number of Chinese servants, in
clean white garments, wooden-soled shoes, and hair nicely braided,
and almost sweeping the ground. An old man, with a pencil in his
hand, quickly appeared from an office on the left, and gave sorae di
rections to those around who were accustomed to obey, and we were
led up stairs to receive the welcome of an old acquaintance. A ser
vant was appointed for each of us, and in a few minutes we were
comfortably disposed of for so long as we might remain in " the pro
vincial city of the flowery land," as the Chinese, in their grandilo
quence, delight to distinguish it.
Though "ladies, great guns, and other military weapons " are not
permitted to be brought to Canton by foreigners, they manage to ob
tain all the luxuries of the table, and a large share of domestic com
fort. The system of the establishment is similar to that of India, ex
cept that the steward, there called a dubash, is here a comprador,
and the host is entirely dependent upon hira for every thing con-

SOCIETY  TAILORS. 395
nected with the household. The comprador has a special license for
his vocation; he engages the servants, supplies the table, and controls
everythingconnected with housekeeping. Besides, he is a banker, and,
on the order of his employer, pays for all purchases, so that one may
live in Canton for years, and never have occasion to defile his fingers
witii cash. To us visiters this was very convenient; for, instead of car
rying a weight of money in our pockets, for the purchase of trifles,
we made a deposite with the worthy comprador, and drew occasional
drafts on him, vfhich, with the shopmen, were as current as cash.
The foreign society is limited; the number of residents, including
clerks, does not, probably, exceed one hundred and fifty. Social
visiting and dining are frequent, but we are not certain that the so
ciety is bound more closely by the bonds of viands and wine. The
"Union Club" is established for the purpose of bringing together,
more frequently, the foreigners, where they eftace any unpleasant
feelings which may be excited in the rivalry of business. The older
residents, generally, abstain from wine, on account of its unfavorable
effects upon the health; and, in lieu thereof, drink tea, which appears
on the table in such guise that the eye uninitiated may readdy mis
take it. Wine is brought in quantities to Canton, where the climate
operates very much to its improveraent. Besides other good things
of the table, we see here the famous China capon and delicious broad-
tad mutton, from the cape of Good Hope; and almost any tea-drink
ing old lady, by a visit to Canton, would be rendered miserable for
the rest of her life; the flavor and bouquet of the China herb loses so
much in crossing the broad seas.
Our first intercourse with the children of the " flowery land " was
held with a tailor and a shoemaker. They speedily answered, in
person, to our summons. The tailor came first. He was a small,
round-shouldered man, in white costume, bearing a bundle under his
arm, tied in a handkerchief. He bowed as he entered, or, rather,
quickly ducked his head, saying, " Chin, chin," — your most obe
dient. " Are you a. tailor?"
" Yes, sir; you have got make sorae pigeon with me? Me glad see
you — me make all true pigeon. What thing you suppose you want-
shey?" " Grass-cloth jackets and pongee pantaloons."
" Have got — have got — suppose you wantshey lookey muster;" at
the same time untying his bundle, and producing A, variety of pat
terns of grass-cloth and silk pongee; he displayed the first, saying,
" This grass-cloth good thing,— number one, first chop — wantshey?''

396

ANGLO-CHINESE LANGUAGE.

" How much for a dozen jackets?"
" One dozen piece jacket," looking thoughtfully for a moment,
and then adding," one dollar one make twelve dollar — can do?"
" How soon will they be finished?"
" When he wantshey?"
" Very soon."
" Suppose next day to-morrow?"
"Yes!"
" Can do — can do — me make measure," which he did in the usual
way, and took an old jacket as a guide by which to fashion the new
ones. This done, he went on; — " No wantshey pantaloon pongee, "^
at the sarae tirae displaying the article — "one good thing — number
one good thing, first chop' — can secure — me no speaky two tongue."
In this way he despatched business, taking each article separately,
and deciding all in relation to it before proceeding to inquire whe
ther other garments were wanting.
The above is a specimen of Anglo-Chinese, as it is spoken and un
derstood, not only by the Chinese shopmen and merchants, bu.t by
the foreign residents holding intercourse with them. This strange
mongrel is regularly taught in the Chinese elementary schools, as a
branch of education, and it would be difficult, perhaps, to exchange
ideas with them in any other.
The shoemaker next appeared, and began with the salutation,
"Chin chin," and was soon despatched. In both instances, these
men were prompt, and gave satisfaction in their respective contracts.
Indeed, such is the general character of this class of people; but all
hold it a point of honor to get as much in a bargain as possible,
but, when that is niade, the terms are rigidly adhered to in most in
stances. The imitativeness of the Chinese is proverbial, and it is stated,
that some years since, tailors would imitate an old garment even to
the patches and darns; but such instances are at present rare.
Something of the kind occurred to me. I directed an ivory-dealer to
have two seals cut, and told him in what manner I wished them
executed. When these were finished, I ordered a third, and with a
pencil, carelessly wrote the letters to be engraved thereon, directing
that it should be executed like the others.
" Very well — he wantshey all same, same.*"'
"Yes." When presented, it was a fac simile of my careless writing, and
when I explained the mistake, he defended himself, saying, that I
had ordered it to be " all the same, same."

CHINESE BARBERS. 397
After dinner, we adjourned to the veranda, from which we had a
bird's eye view in front. The shower had passed, and several
groups of Chinese were standing and chatting together. One group
held birds, in cages, which they bring out every day for the sake of
an airing. Another party were squatted in a circle, seemingly in
idle conversation, where they remained for a half hour, and then
went their respective ways.
Here and there was seen a Chinaman, in blue, seated on a pyra
midal red stool with several drawers below the top, and near to him,
a small bucket with a long staff fixed to one side of it. These are
barbers; a class of artists, which numbers in Canton no less than
7,300, and, as in other countries, it is asserted, their success in busi
ness depends upon their talent for talk and gossip. At this hour few
were employed; but in the early part of the day, they are all busy
shaving the heads and dressing the long cues of tlieir countrymen.
A Chinaman will defend this appendage till the last, its loss being a
disgrace which cannot be readily washed away. If he lose it when
absent from the empire, he never returns until it has acquired a le
gitimate length. I have watched the barbers at midday when the
sun was shining in full blaze, to see them follow the long shade of
the flag-staff in front of the factory, as the advance of the sun caused
the shadow to change its position, thus securing the advantages of an
airing. Towards sunset, the chest of drawers and bucket were se
cured to a shoulder stick, and they moved off shop and all.
Along the pavement, foreign clerks were promenading up and
down for the sake of exercise; while here and there, a pair of Par-
sees, the finest-looking people in the East, were sauntering to and
fro. The river was alive with boats, and one or two trim-built
wherries were seen gliding in the throng, pulled by English gentle
men, for the sake of health.
The morning after our arrival, we set out to see whatever was to
be seen of the " flowery land." We were met at the door by a
Chinaman, with a basket of ivory toys, who, with a smiling face, so
licited our patronage; but finding his articles did not please us, as a
last test of our taste, he inquired, " No wantshey big mandarin
sodger knife," at the same time exhibiting a short sword, in a scab
bard, ornamented and covered with tortoise-shell.
The barbers were busy all over the area, and people were hurry
ing in every direction in pursuit of trade. Some with umbrellas, and
others content to shelter the head from the sun, by holding up a
fan. Along the wall, near China Street, a number of old women.

398 CAT AND DOG MARKET  COOKERY  CHINA STREET.
miserably clad, their littie feet bandaged and protruded into notice,
sat busily sewing with a bag of rags beside them. The corner of the
street was covered with red placards, containing edicts in Chinese
characters, reminding one of the vicinity of a theatre at home. At
this spot, too, sat several people with coops and cages, which we
found, on examination, to contain cats and dogs, fatted for the table,
which were in their respective ways testifying their desire to be en
larged from prison. The purchasers were always particular to look
closely at puss'-eyes, the state of which is considered to be the cri
terion of the healthful condition of the animal. Eat cats and dogs!
Whether delicious or not, I am not prepared to say; but I know of
no good reason against eating thera. Education and habit have de
cided the matter for most of us. If we be disgusted with these as
articles of diet, I ara sure few of us will turn from the fatted capon,
the duck, the goose, or the turkey, the dressing of which the Chinese
cooks understand a« well as any people living. Indeed, if the state
of the art of cookery in a nation were to be received as a criterion of
its civilization, I should vote the Chinese the most civilized people
on earth. Birds'-nest soups and jellies, bichos do mar, sharks' -fins,
and sea-weed, are made palatable; fruits and vegetables of all sorts
are converted into sweetmeats of all kinds; among which ginger,
oranges and bamboo are not the least sapid.
Before entering China Street, several shopmen had put their re
spective cards into our hands, assuring us, in a confidential tone,
"You come my house, you find all true pigeon; rae no speakey two
tongue." China Street, the widest in the suburbs, is twelve feet
wide, well paved, and, perhaps, three hundred feet long. It is lined
on each side by narrow stores, two stories high, having verandas in
front, and all painted green and black. In these shops are chiefly
kept saraples of goods, where you may purchase a yard or a cargo at
nearly the same rate. They are very damp, at least at this season,
and the shelves upon which the silks, &c., are placed, are made in
gratings, and their front is usually closed by wooden shutters. Two
or three times a week charcoal fires are set beneath, and the heated
air permeates the goods, and corrects the dampness of the atmosphere.
Neat laquered signs hang at the doors, done in simple English, as
" Washing, Dealer in Silks," &c.
On entering one of these shops, you are welcomed with " Chin,
chin," and a door which separates the shop from a small vestibule in
front, is closed to shut out intruders, and prevent the gathering of a
curious crowd in the street. Besides, beggars are wont to take this

SHOPS  MEASURES  SWAN-PAN. 399
opportunity to enter, and it is against the custom to send thera away
empty-handed; nor can they be persuaded to move without some
trifle, but remain, stunning the ears by striking together two pieces
of bamboo, until bribed to depart.
A counter six feet long and one and a half wide, covered with
oil-cloth, stands a littie in front of the shelves. Before it is a table,
on each side of vvhich are seats for the purchasers, that they may ex
amine the goods at ease. Beneath the table is an altar of the Chi
nese penates, consisting of a sheet of red paper inscribed with Chi
nese characters, before which continually burns a red wax taper or a
small lamp.
Almost every thing is sold by weight, whether silk or poultry, vege
tables or silver, by the following table:
10 Cash, (le,) 1 Candareen, = 5.7984 grs. Troy.
10 Candareens, (fun,) 1 Mace, = 57.984 grs. Troy.
10 Mace, (tseen,) 1 Tael, = 579.084 grs. Troy.
10 Tael, (leang,) 1 Catty, =i= 1| lb. avoirdu.
100 Catties, - 1 Pecul, = 133| lbs. "
It is to be observed that the words Cash, Candareens, Mace, Tael,
Catty and Pecul, are not Chinese words, and are never used by the
Chinese among themselves; and why foreigners have employed them
instead of the ligitiraate terms, it is difficult to conjecture.* The
above, with slight modifications, are the standard weights, both of
money and of commerce. Though the shopmen tell the prices in
dollars, they keep their accounts deciraally according to the following
table. 10 Cash, - - - 1 Candareen,
10 Candareen, - - 1 Mace,
10 Mace, - - - 1 Tael, = gl,38.
On every counter is seen an instrument, called a " swan-pan," or
counting board, with which the Chinese perform calculations in num
bers with surprising facility. This abacus, or arithmetical board,
consists of an oblong frame of wood, about a foot long, having a bar
running lengthwise, about two-thirds its width from one side.
Through this bar, at right angles, are inserted a number of parallel
wires, having moveable balls on them, five on one side of the bar and
two on the other. The principle on which computation is made is
this; that any ball in the larger compartment, being placed against
* Chinese Repositoiy.

400 CillNA STREETS — CABINET MAKERS.
the bar and called unity, decreases or increases by tenths, hundredths,
&c.; and the corresponding balls in the smaller division, by fifths,
fiftieths, &c. If one in the smaller compartment is placed against
the middle bar, the opposite unit or integer, which may be any one
of the digits, is multiplied by five.*
This method is of Tartar origin, and was used in Russia until
Ferguson, a Scotch mathematician, introduced arithmetic. Arabic
numerals found their way into Europe in the ninth century, through
the Spaniards, who were the first to adopt them. The Russian em
pire received the Arabic method of counting a thousand years after
wards; and even to this day, the ancient method of counting is met
with among its people. Such is the fate of the arts; they slowly
find their way round the world.
W^hen several articles are purchased by an individual from one
shopman, he customarily makes the purchaser a present, which goes
under the name of " cumshaw," and is equivalent to the per centage
deducted in some cases with us for cash. The Chinese shopmen are
very adroit in putting up packages, and if they be opened by foreign
ers, it is rarely they can be again put into the same neat form.
The shops are nearly all alike, both in China and in New-China
Streets. We find in them dealers in ivory, in silk, silver and gold,
laquered ware; &c.; shops for birds and bird-cages, shells, fireworks
and insects, which are not worthy separate description.
Both China Streets are crowded during the early part of the day,
and we see here the stalls of the medical fraternity. They are
usually seated in the midst of little baskets of dry herbs, which they
are always compounding in a rude mortar, when not engaged with
the complainings of a patient. Their prescriptions seem to be as
much esteemed for quantity as quality, some of the doses resembling
more a mash for a horse than a potion for a man.
A narrow street, crosses, nearly at right angles the heads of China
streets, where the concourse is always very great. Here we see men
with flat baskets of fish hung at each end of a shoulder staff; sedan
chairs, which foreigners are not allowed to use; and some with um
brellas, all moving in opposite directions, and yet avoiding collision.
Like the other two, this street is filled by various small shops. At
one end of it we find the cabinet makers, collected together, busily
employed, fashioning ebony, rose and camphor woods, into desks,
chairs, trunks, &c., which have found their way all over the world.
* Establecimientos Ultramarinos. Tom. iv. Madrid, 1788.

TINKERS  TUTENAGUE. 401
Like the mechanics in other parts of the East, we find these making
almost as much use of their feet and toes as of their hands. Even a
small writing desk goes through a process in the manufacture which
raight be termed building, for their work-shops have nothing like a
bench or table for tools, or any contrivances for abridging labor.
The mechanics are usually seated flat upon the floor with their
task between their legs and the very few tools they use, scattered on
either side of them within reach.
There is another street, inhabited chiefly by tinkers, who produce
many household utensils, from a metallic compound, closely resem
bling silver, known in commerce as tutenague, or China spelter. It
is an alloy of iron, copper, and zinc; but in what proportions is a se
cret not yet discovered by Europeans. " It is harder than zinc, though
less so than iron, sonorous, compact, and has some malleability. The
fresh fracture is brilliant, but soon tarnishes. Till superseded by
spelter, from Silesia, it was exported in large quantities to India; but
on account of its high price, is now seldom or never shipped; spelter
being, on the contrary, imported to compete wilh it in China."
We must pass by many things which we might remark, but our
stay was too limited to enable us to see all which is accessible to fo
reigners; and we are happy in having so valuable a work to refer all
who may be interested to know more of Canton,, as the Chinese Re
pository.

51

402

CHINESE POLICY.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

SKETCHES IN CHINA.

June, 1836.
One afternoon we set off to cross the river to visit the Budhist
temples at Honan, but were unable to procure a boat, an edict having
been issued the day before inhibiting foreigners from visiting it, and
the boat-people from hiring their boats to them. So severe are the
inflictions of Chinese law generally, that no ordinary bribe will in
duce their infraction by Chinese citizens. Nothing can be more ef
fectual than their mode of operation. Several instances might be
adduced; but the following extract in relation to Lord Napier, is suf
ficiently illustrative of the style of these decrees or proclamations,
and its success proves how strictly it was observed.
" From the period of this proclamation, mercantile people of this
inner land are not permitted to buy or sell to the English nation, any
goods or things whatever, large or small; &nd all raanner of work
men, boatmen, &c., are also not allowed to receive hire or employ of
the said barbarians, (foreigners?) Should there be any clandestinely
having dealings or receiving hire, let the local officers immediately
examine and seize thera, to be punished according to the law against
holding clandestine intercourse with foreign nations. In this the said
barbarian eye Lord Napier, has cut himself off frora the celestial
empire. It is not all that we, the governor and lieutenant-governor,
have liked to do.
" The barbarian merchants of all other nations are still permitted
to trade as usual. They need have no suspicion or anxiety. Let all
with trembling awe obey. Oppose not. A special proclamation.
" Taoukwang, 14th year, Qth moon, 29th day." — (September 2nd,
1834.) " When the Chinese soldiers appeared about the foreign factories,
on the publication of this order, and all the native servants and por-

TEA-GARDEN  DWARFED TREES. 403
ters were withdrawn from the British factory. Lord Napier requested
a guard of marines from the ships of war at the Bogue, to come up
to the city. All natives were forbidden, on pain of death, to sell any
provisions to the British factory; and all foreigners to furnish sup
plies, on the penalty of suffering like restrictions themselves. At
the same time, the passage of foreign boats between Canton and
Whampoa was forbidden; allowing the departure of foreigners, but
the return of nd one whatever."*
Thus operated on, more by stern necessity than any apprehension
of the exercise of physical force against him. Lord Napier took his
departure, and the Chinese gained their point.
Unable to hire a conveyance, one of our party applied to a Hong
merchant for his boat, in which we hoped to evade the law; but he
not only loaned the boat, but accompanied us himself. He would not
consent, however, to visit Honan, but instead, carried us to see a tea
garden, which to me, was quite as interesting.
We soon entered a canal, along which the boat was poled. Houses
of bluish bricks, the color of which is owing to being baked without
the contact of fire, or to somepeculiarity of the clay, rose immediately
frora the water on each side. We passed numerous boats, and wher
ever there were children, they hailed us in tones of derision, crying
as long as they could be heard "fan-qui," — foreign devils. Along
the canal were several public tea-houses, apparentiy neat within,
where the Chinese resort to play, drink tea, and smoke opium. At
one of the miserable bamboo huts on the. canal bank, resembling a
sty, more than the habitation of human beings, we saw a woman pre
paring a large rat for cooking. After passing nearly a half mile
through contrasting scenes of opulence and misery, the boat stopped
at a stair, and we entered a garden, adorned with summer houses,
and several large fish ponds. The walks between the latter were
paved, and a balustrade of porcelain ran along on either side. Nu
merous dwarfed trees, planted in pots, were growing along the walks.
The practice of the art of dwarfing plants, appears to be confined to
the Japanese and Chinese.
" The general method of obtaining vegetable dwarfs is said to be
the following: a quantity of clay, or mould, is applied to the upper part
of a trunk of a tree, frora which a dwarf is intended to be taken, and
close to its division into branches. The mould is to be confined to
the spot by coarse hempen, or cotton cloth, and to be carefully kept
• Chinese Repository.

404

SMALL FEET.

moist by water. In consequence of this application, continued some
times above a twelvemonth, small tender fibres shoot down like roots
from the wood into the mould. The part of the trunk emitting those
new fibres, together with the branch arising immediately above it, is
then to be carefully separated from the rest of the tree, and planted in
new earth, in which the fibres become new roots, while the former
branch is now the stem of the vegetable thus transformed in some
measure. This operation does not destroy or alter the productive
faculty which those parts enjoyed before their separation from the pa
rent root. That, which, while a branch of the original tree, bore
flowers and fruit, continues to produce the same, though no longer
supported upon any stock. The terminal buds of such branches
of trees as are meant to become dwarfs, are torn off; which circumstance
prevented the farther elongation ofthose branches, and forces other buds
and branches from the sides. These branches are bent by wires to what
ever form the operator wishes; and when the appearance of age and
decay is meant to be given to a dwarf tree, it is repeatedly smeared
with treacle or molasses, which attracts multitudes of ants, who, in
pursuit of those sweet juices, attack the bark, and, by a gradual coro-
sion of it, produce the desired eft'ect. These different processes are
sometimes attempted to be kept secret by the gardeners, and they vary
designedly in the mode of carrying thera on: but the principle upon
which they are founded is sufficiently apparent from what is related
here; and the contrivance argues ingenuity and perseverance, rather
than the practice does true taste, which consists in assisting nature in
its most favorite works; not in counteracting its operations or distort
ing its productions."*
In our walk through tlie garden we saw much to admire. We
were led from it into an open field, and, following a path along a ditch,
met a number of women tottering along, owing to the deformity of
their feet, produced by bandaging. They were just returning from
the packing and sorting houses, where they had been employed.
Abont three hundred women are attached to each tea-establishment,
and receive for their respective labor about six cents a day, without
other emolument of any kind. Those we saw were miserably clad,
and their feet were bound with bandages, and in little shoes. If the
bandages be left off, the feet very soon spread; and by doing so they
would becorae more useful and trustworthy members, but this would
be at the cost of pride.
• Staunton's China,— vol. I. p. 212. Philad. 1799.

TEA., 405
We entered a building where tea is manufactured. The people
were just departing from their labors. On the second floor were
apartments, wherein the leaves are sifted and sorted by hand, and
then packed, after coming from an apartment below, where they un
dergo the process of manipulation, in cast iron pans, set diagonally in
blocks of masonry about breast high. These blocks are arranged in
rows, and each one has four pans with a furnace beneath them. The
method of manufacturing tea has been already mentioned in a former
part of this work.
We noticed here, among otiier things, a winnowing machine, in all
respects like those used in the United States; and were informed,
that it is employed in separating the several sorts of tea. The im
perial, being the heaviest, falls first; next, the young hyson, then the
gunpowder, and so on.
Green teas are very little used by the Chinese, though the "cup
that cheers but not inebriates," is universal throughout the whole of
the celestial empire, and is brought forward on all occasions and at
all times of the day. Public tea houses are found in every town, and
in every village in China. On remarking to a Hong merchant that
the Chinese only use black tea, and asking for what reason, he re
plied, in atone plainly showing in what estimation it is held, " What!
me drink that poison stuff?" Ladies at home may take the hint.
Tea was introduced into England, by the way of Holland, in 1666,
by Lords Arlington and Ossori, and through the influence of their
ladies, became fashionable in the society to which they belonged.
At that period a pound weight of tea sold in London at nearly seventy
pounds (Tournois,) though at Batavia it cost no more than three or
four. But this exorbitant price, which fell very slowly, did not im
pede the way of this beverage into favor. It appears, however, that
it did not come into general use before the beginning of the eighteenth
century, about 1715, at which period the green tea was first employed
in England. Before that time, Bohea only was used.* In the last
hundred years the use of China tea has rapidly advanced throughout
the world, to an extent which may be estimated from the following
tabular statements. • Establecimientos Ultramarinos — Tom. II.

406

TEA-PLANT.

Comparative View of the Exports of Tea from Canton to
THE United States, since July 1st, 1830.

DESCKIPTIOS.

1831.

1832.

1833.

1834.

1835.

1836.

Young Hyson, -

25,528

40,065

51,363

86,115

76,557

76,045

Hyson, ...

7,147

9,346

14,248

23,787

16,509

14,599

Hyson Skin and Twankay,

5,447

20,883

36,608

34,368

16,982

23,372

Gunpowder,

2,019

4,603

6,614

10,154

7,335

7,786

Imperial, ...

1,934

4,514

5,939

9,424

7,736

7,149

Souchong,

16,955

37,351

34,815

52,278

35,245

60,612

Powchong,

559

2,245

4,723

9,181

5,733

4,385

Pecco,

200

517

2,563

2,192

1,030

2,212

Bohea, -

3,592

12,182

13,665

1,445

779

871

Total, -

63,381

131,706

170,538

228,944

167,906

197,031

Gheeic, . - .

42,075

79,411

114,772

163,848

125,119

128,951

Black,

21,306

52,295

55,766

65,096

42,787

68,080

"The tea plant is a bushy, evergreen shrub, which, if permitted
to attain its greatest natural size, will grow to the height of about
twelve feet. In botany, it belongs, according to the artificial sys
tem, to the class and order of Monadelphia Polyandriaj according to
the natural order of Linnasus, it belongs to the Columnifera;; and,
according to that of Jussieu, to the Aurantiacese. It constitutes, by
itself, a distinct genus, of which there is but a_ single species; the
plants yielding the different kinds of black and green tea, being, in
reality, according to the Chinese, always, and now, according to the
adraission of European botanists, no more than permanent varieties,
the result of long culture, as is the case with many other plants use
ful to man. The leaves are alternate, on short, thick, channeled
foot stalks, of a longish elliptic form, with a blunt, notched point,
and serrated, except at the base. To a careful observer, these cha
racters wdl always serve to distinguish the tea leaf from that of all
other plants, except one of the Camellias, the Sesanqua; for the Ca
mellias are of the same natural family, and, indeed, in China, are
not unfrequently used as tea.
" The tea is, probably, an indigenous plant of China. This may
be concluded, not only frora its long culture in that country, but
from its being found there in a wdd state, and from the Chinese
names for it having been borrowed by almost all foreign nations.
These names are Cha and T'he. The first of these is the general
term throughout China; and the last belongs to the dialect of Fokien.
Most of the Asiatic nations have adopted the former, having received
their knowledge of the plant from inland communication; and most

tea-plant. 407
of the European nations, their acquaintance with it having been de
rived directly from Fokien by maritime communication, the latter.
The exceptions among Asiatics are the Malayan nations, and among
Europeans, the Portuguese. The plant has been cultivated in China
from time imraeraorial, and its use is as much buried in fable as that
of wheat or barley, or the vine, in European or western Asia. As a
branch of husbandry, in China, it is at least as important as the cul
ture of the vine in the southern countries of Europe. The latitudes
in which it thrives best are from 23° to 30° north, or from the sea on
the south to the great river Yangtse Kiang on the north. The north
ern limits of its culture, however, extend much beyond tiiat river;
and there are, in fact, few provinces or districts of southern and cen
tral China, in which the tea plant is not extensively cultivated, at
least for domestic use. The tea, like the vine, is cultivated on the
sides of hills, in preference to the plains. It is raised from the seed,
and yields its first crop in from two to three years. Where the best
teas are raised, the plant is carefully pruned, and prevented from
attaining a height exceeding two or three feet. The production of
good tea depends upon soil and locality, fully as much as that of good
wine; like it, too, the produce varies according to the care with which
the crop is collected and prepared for use. The quality of the crop
varies, also, with the nature of each season, like the vintage. From
the same plant are comraonly taken, in each season, four crops; a
circumstance which is another cause of variety in tea, as it appears
in the market. The younger the leaves when taken, the higher fla
vored the tea, and the scarcer, and, consequently, the dearer the ar
ticle. The earliest crop is taken in the beginning of spring, just
when the leaf-buds are opening; and the last crop in August, when
the leaves are coarse, abundant, and deficient in aroma and astrin-
gency. " The green and black teas present a parallel case to the white
and red grape, which yield wine of their respective colors. In both
cases they are only varieties of the same species. The growth of
teas of sufficiently high flavor to keep for a considerable time, and fit,
in consequence, for exportation to foreign countries, was, for a long
time, confined to two , provinces, or rather to a few districts of those
provinces; for, in China, provinces, in so far as extent and popula
tion are concerned, are extensive kingdoms. These provinces were
Fokien, which yielded black tea, and Kiangnan, which yielded green;
the southern boundary of the first being in about the 24th degree of
latitude, and that of the last in about the 30th. Of late years, and

408

TEA -plant.

in consequence of the great demand for teas in Europe and America,
the culture of the plant for exportation has been extended to three
additional provinces, namely. Canton, Kiansi, and Chekiang, all lying
between the 23d and 30th degrees of latitude. The provinces which
produce good tea for exportation may, in fact, be described as the
Bordeaux, the Burgundy, and the Midi of China. By far the best
teas are still brought from the two original provinces; and the worst
from the district of Woping, in Canton.
" In China, contrary to the universal usage of the other great des
potisms of Asia, the soil is private property; and, in consequence of
the nature of the law of inheritance, and of the tyranny which hin
ders the accumulation of property, the land is very minutely subdi
vided, and the proprietors are little better than peasants or cotters,
each, with the assistance of his family, cultivating his own farm.
This, of course, applies, equally to the tea districts as to the other
parts of the empire; and the tea is, consequently, cultivated only in
small patches, or gardens, not exceeding, in extent, the holding of an
ordinary market gardener among ourselves. The leaves are picked
by the cultivator's family, and conveyed at once to the market, where
they are purchased by a particular class of dealers, who dry them
under a shed, and, in this imperfect state of preparation, dispose of
them to a second and higher class of traders, who sort the teas ac
cording to their qualities, and, after completing the process of manu
facture, pack them in chests, dividing them into lots of from 100 to
600 chests, which are known in the Canton market under the name
of Chops, frora their bearing the signet, or mark (in Chinese, chap,)
of the merchant who makes them up.
" The tea arrives in Canton about the middle of October, and the
busiest period of the trade extends from that time to the end of De
cember. The comraodity is conveyed, for the raost part, by land
carriage and by porters, and, generally speaking, from 400 to 700
miles; and the owners accompany it. The traders in green tea
amount, in number, to not less than 400. The dealers in black tea
are less numerous, but more wealthy. Both are in the habit of re
ceiving advances, to some extent, from the Hong, or security mer
chants of Canton.
" In the market of Canton, the sorts of tea quoted for exportation do
not, generally, exceed fourteen or fifteen in number; about eight of
which are black and six green. They are as follows, with their re
spective ordinary prices.

I'EA-n.ANl.

Green,

Tauls per Pecul.

Twankay,

-

24 to 28.

Hyson Skin,

-

24 to 28.

Young Hyson, -

k ¦

44 to 54.

Hyson,

.

44 to 54.

Imperial,

.

50 to 60.

Gunpowder,

Black.

59 to 62.
Taels iier Peciil.

Bohea,

12 to 15.
Congo, -
-
24 to 28.
Campoi, -
-
24 to 28.
Souchong,
.
20 to 36.
Ankoi,
.
20 to 24.
Caper,
.
24 to 25.
Orange Peko, -
.
25 to 26.
Flowery Peko, -
.
50 to 60.
409
" In round numbers, one tael per pecul maybe considered as equi
valent to one half penny per pound, in estimating these prime costs.
The terras under which the different sorts of tea are here described,
are for the most part European corruptions, and some misapplications
of Chinese words; but as they are of long established use, and per
fectly well understood both by the European and Chinese merchant,
they describe the commodities intended with sufficient accuracy for
all practical purposes. The European nations, however, do not among
themselves uniformly agree in the use of these terms; thus, what the
English and Americans call Hyson Skin, is called by the Dutch and
Germans simply Schin; and what the first two call Young Hyson, is
called by the last Uxim. What the English call Imperial, is called
by the Dutch, Germans, and' French, Pearl tea, and by the Ameri-
ricans occasionally, Gomee. The Russians, moreover, import, by
their caravans, some teas altogether unknown by name or kind to
the other nations of Europe except through then[i.
" The highest quality of black tea is Peko, or more correctly. Flow
ery Peco. This consists of the early spring buds of the finest black
tea plants, intermixed, as is comraonly believed, with the flowers of
the fragrant olive, which is discoverable in the forra of small white par
ticles. This, as will be seen by reference to the price current, runs
up to the price of 60 taels per pecul, equal to 2s. 6d. per lb. The
very same plant, in its second and more abundant crop, may yield
52
410

TEA-PLANT.

Souchong, at 36 taels per pecul, or Is. 6d. per lb. Its third crop
may consist of Congo, Campoi, or low Souchong, bearing no higher
price than lOd. per lb.; and its fourth and last crop may consist of
Fokien Bohea, worth no more than 15 taels per pecul, or 75d. per
lb. The coarsest Boheas in the market, which are rated above at 12.
taels per pecul, or 6d. per lb., are, however, frequently found as low
as 5d. per lb.; and some very coarse teas, used by the Chinese them
selves, are cheaper than sloe leaves could be brought to market in
this country. The lowest Boheas of the Canton market consist of
the refuse or sweepings of superior black teas, or of the inferior tea
of Woping, in Canton. It may be remarked, by the way, respecting
this word Bohea, which is now applied by Europeans to the lowest
denomination of black tea, that it was, and still is, applied by the
Chinese to the finest description of it, that which grows on the moun
tain Vu-i-shan, in the province of Fokien, as noted for its produc
tion of fine teas as the estate of Clos-Vougeot for its Burgundy, or
that of the Chateau-Margot for its claret.
" Similar observations apply to the green teas; although the range
of qualities and prices here is not so great as in the black. The dif
ference between the highest and the lowest quality of green tea, is
not so much as in the proportion of two to one; while that between
the highest and lowest of the black, is as much as four to one. The
highest quality of green tea, is Gunpowder. This consists of the first
leaves of the vernal trop of the green tea plant. As it comes to us,
it is not mixed with the flowers of any foreign plant, as Peko is; but
such is the case with some of the finest green teas imported by the
Russians, called Chulan, Imperial, and Hyson, and Young Hyson,
compose the second and third crops. The light and inferior leaves
separated from Hyson by a winnowing machine, constitute Hyson
Skin. The fourth and last crop constitutes Twankay, Single, &c.
With respect to the last word, the same observation applies to it, as
to Bohea. Single, or more correctly Songlo, takes its title from a
mountain of that name in the province of Kiangnan, where the finest
green tea has been long produced.
" China, although the only country in which tea, fit to become an
article of commerce with foreign nations, is produced, is very far
from being the only one which yields it. It is extensively cultivated
for domestic use throughout the Japan islands, Corea, Tonquin, and
Cochin-China; that is, from about the latitude of 13° North, up to
40°. By far the best of these teas is that of Japan, which, however,
is not manufactured in such a way as to enable it to be kept for any

TEA-PLANT.

length of time. The Dutch occasionally bring small quanTiTtCs viFTt"
to Batavia. The tea of Tonquin and Cochin-China consists of a large
coarse leaf, which undergoes no other preparation than that of being
dried under a shed. It possesses, contrary to what raight be expected,
so little aroma or astringency that it is necessary to boil, instead of
infuse it, as is done with the Chinese tea. In the mountainous parts
of some of the northern portions of the Burman territory, where the
plant, judging by its native name, appears to be indigenous, tea is
cultivated for a use to which no other nation puts it. The leaf is pre
served in oil and eaten as a dainty, pretty much after the manner in
which European nations use olives.
"The tea plant will thrive under the equator; tiiat is, it will grow
vigorously, and produce flov/ers and fruit. It is found again blow
ing in the 40th degree of latitude, and it is a sufficiently hardy plant
in the green-houses of Europe up to the 50th degree of latitude. It
might have been expected from this, that like the coffee of Arabia, it
should long ago have been propagated in many regions of the new
world, as well as in the settlements of the European nations in Asia.
This, however, is very far from being the case; and after two centu
ries' acquaintance with the plant, the production of it for foreign con
sumption, is still confined to a few districts of its original country,
China. The fact seems to be, that, like growing the vine for good
wine, the growing of the tea plant for the production of good tea, is
a matter of considerable uncertainty and difficulty. Except a few
provinces of France, Germany, and the Peninsula, there are no coun
tries which produce wines good enough, generally speaking, for a fo
reign market. A peculiar soil and climate seem, in the first instance,
indispensable to the successful culture of the tea plant. These may,
no doubt, be found without difficulty; but there are other indispensa
ble requisites not so easily attainable — a skilful culture of the plant,
and a skilful preparation of the leaf; and above all, a low rate of la
bor, to meet the numerous manipulations which the plant requires,
especially in the gathering and manufacture. It is not likely that
the culture will succeed, on this last account, in any of our colonial
establishments, where, it may be observed, that neither the rearing
of silk worms nor the culture of the vine, both of which imply the
necessity of cheap labor, have yet been prosecuted with any decided
success. The culture of the tea plant has been tried in Brazil for
the last twenty years, but apparently without any profitable result.
It has been tried also on a larger scale in the island of Java, within
the last seven years; but there too, according to all accounts, with-

412

TEA-PLANT.

out much success, although carried on with the advantage of Chinese
from Fokien to superintend and conduct it. It is scarcely reasona
ble, indeed, to expect that a plant which thrives best between the 24th
and SOth degree of latitude, and in a country of primitive formation,
should succeed in a country between the 6th and 7th degrees of lati
tude, and of volcanic formation. It is true that the experiment is
made in the mountainous part of the country, at an elevation of be
tween two and three thousand feet above the level of the sea, and
where the heat is consequently not very great. This, however, is
not sufficient. In such a country, there is neither a summer nor a
winter like those of China. There may be the same average heat
throughout the year; but a delicate and capricious plant, like tea, in
so far at least as the quality of its produce is concerned, may require
a very different distribution of it, from what the climate of Java can
by possibility supply,
" The .experinient is about to be tried under more favorable circum
stances in Hindoostan; a country which affords many situations in
which the soils and climates approach nearly to those of the tea pro
vinces in China, and where the price of labor is as low as in China
itself. The inhabitant?, indeed, want the skill and enterprise of tiie
Cliinese, but these raay be furnished by European direction. The
governor-general has, in fact, deputed a gentleman of great spirit and
intelligen.ce to China, in order to bring to India tea plants and na
tiyes of the country accustomed to their culture, and Considerable
hopes may be entertained of the ultimate success of, the project.
There are countries nearer home, in which the culture of the tea
plant might be carried on to advantage; such as some of the warmer
parts of Spain, Portugal, and Greece., The habits of the tea plant
appear to bear some analogy tp those of tiie myrtle; and the experi
nient might be tried in those situations which the myrtle in its natu-
ra.1 state is found to affect.
" With regard to the consumption of tea in different countries, a
few observations will here be made. The whole of the natbns of
Asia, east of Siara and Cambodia, are wh?it may be termed habitual
and inimemorial consumers of tea. It js to them what beer is, or
more correptiy w^s, to the northern, and what wine is to the southern
nations of Europe. First, then, vyith respect to the Chinese them
selves, the tea-pot is in constant requisition, from morning till night,
with persons of both sexes, and all ages, and of all conditions. The
higher classes only use the good teas; and it is perfectly well known
that what is used by the lower is often of a very execrable quality.

TEA-PLANT. 413
and sometimes is not tea at all, but some coarse and rude substitute.
The Chinese use it always without milk, and sometimes without su
gar. The Chinese people, in round numbers, and by the most au
thentic and recent census, are 370 millions in number; and if they
consume only in the same proportion as the inhabitants of the United
Kingdom, or at the rate of 40,000,000 lbs. per annum, for a popula
tion of 25 millions, which, under a system of free trade, would pro
bably be the lowest consumption, their annual consumption will
amount to more than 246,000 tons; but, if they consume, and that is
more probable, twice as much as the average consumption of this
country, then the whole will approach to near half a million tons a
year. Let the value of the smallest of these amounts be taken as
equal on an average only to the price of the lowest black tea in the
Canton market, or 7id. per lb., and it will be found to amount to the
sum of eighteen millions and a half sterling. This is, no doubt, a
great quantity, and a great value; but still it will not appear extra
vagant, when it is considered that the same people consume a foreign
drug and luxury, opium, to the annual value of ^23,000,000. sterling.
" The next greatest consumers of tea are the Japanese, who use it
to nearly the same extent as the Chinese, and whose number has been
computed at 60 millions of people. The Coreans, the Tonquinese,
and Cochin-Chinese are also considerable consumers of tea. The
Japanese receive some of their finest teas from China; and the other
two nations, all that is good of theirs. Throughout Mongolia and
Siberia, among all classes of the people, tea is nearly as much an ar
ticle of necessity as in China itself. The tea made use of by these,
commonly called brick tea, is extremely coarse, and made up into
hard cakes in the form of a parallelopipedon, about eighteen inches
long, ten broad, and near an inch thick. This is boded in milk,
thickened with rye meal, and seasoned with salt. In short, the Tar
tars make a raeail of what the Chinese sip as a beverage. The whole
of this tea is brought from China, and although coarse, it consists of
the genuine plant.
" The Chinese colonists in the eastern Archipelago, in Tonquin,
Cochin-China, Cambodia, Siam, and the country of the Burmese, use
tea as excessively as the inhabitants of the mother country, and from
them its use has been borrowed by the native inhabitants of these
countries respectively, araong whora, however, it is confined to the
wealthy. Tea, is therefore, a considerable article of export to all
the countries in question; and it is conveyed to thein all by the
junks, except lo the Burmese dominions. These receive the com-

414

TEA-PLANT.

modity over land from the province of Yunan, packed in parcels of a
globular , form, about the size of an eighteen pound shot. This, as
may be seen by the works of the Jesuits, is the shape in which the
coarse tea of Yunan has always appeared. The natives of Hindoo
stan, Persia, Arabia, and Turkey, are not unacquainted with the use
of tea; but have recourse to it, for the most part, only for its sup
posed medicinal virtues. The Turks or Turcomans of Trans-Oxi-
ana and the neighboring countries, however, use it far more exten
sively, and, indeed, with tiie exception of the Chinese and their im
mediate neighbors, seem to be among the greatest consumers of tea.
It is remarkable that the tea used by these people is all green, and a
great deal of it of a very fine quality. As m.ay be seen in the nar
rative of Lieutenant Burnes, the article is brought to Trans-Oxiana
by the routes of Yarkand and Badakhshan. To these places it is
conveyed by Chinese caravans, and there purchased by the Moslem
merchants, who convey it to Bokharia. It is made use of always
without milk, and generally without sugar.
" After the Chinese and Japanese, the greatest consumers of tea
are the English, and these are followed by their descendants in
America, by the Dutch, and the Russians. These are the only na
tions of the European stock that are considerable consumers, the use
of coffee or chocolate predominating among the rest. The following
is an approximation to the quantities of tea consumed by the respec
tive countries of Europe and America, with the settlements and colo
nies of the former: — lbs.
Great Britain, - . 40,000,000
Russia, - - 6,500,000
Holland, - - - - 3,000,000
Germany, - - - 2,000,000
France, .... . 250,000
United States, - . . 10,000,000
British America and West Indies, - 1,500,000
British settlements in India, - - 1,000,000
British Australian Colonies, - - 250,000

64,500,000

" Besides the quantities here enumerated, there are exports to the
Cape of Good Hope, to the Spanish and Portuguese settlements in
India, and to South America, together with some to Denmark and
Sweden: so that, upon the whole, the total consumption of the Eu-

TEA-PLANT. 415
ropean and American nations, will probably not be overrated at
65,000,000 lbs. The value of this, in China, will not be less than
^64,000,000 steriing.
" Will China be able to supply any great quantity of tea, on the
increased demand which the European and Araerican nations are
certain in no long period of tirae to raake? There is no doubt but it
will. The consumption of tea among the European nations, com
menced about one hundred and eighty -five years ago; and in this time
it has risen from a nameless fraction, to near 30,000 tons a year.
Our descendants in America, who hardly existed when the tea plant
first became known to Europe, now consume upwards of 5,000 tons
of it. In the commenceraent of the eighteenth century, the con-
suraption of tea in England did not exceed 100,000 lbs. weight. In
the commenceraent of the nineteenth century, it was 20,000,000 lbs.;
and these 20,000,000 lbs. will probably be doubled in the first year of
the system of free trade. In all this time there appears to have been
very little variation in the price of tea in China, beyond the effect of
variety in the seasons. This assertion is of easy proof, and the
proof, as a matter of satisfaction and curiosity, may be given. The
following statement contains, in two columns, the prices of tea in
China in 1747 and 1827. The first of these is taken from a work,
published in London, in 1762, called '• A Voyage to the East Indies;"
and the second from the printed Canton price current of the 14th
December, 1827. Taels per Peoul.

Teas. 1747.

From To

1827.

From To

14 15
24 28
26 27

Bohea, - - - 13 15
Congou, ... - 25 30
Souchong, ... . 35 75
Hyson, ... . . 45 60 4^ 58
"In 1747, the quantity of tea consumed in the United Kingdom,
was short of 2,400,000 lbs. weight, and in 1827, very neariy 30,000-
000 lbs.;* yet this immense increase had in eighty years' time produced
no sensible effect on the price in China. The only remarkable discre
pancy regards the tea called Souchong; and this is very easily ac
counted for. The finer description of this class of tea has, in fact, of
late years, according to the official statements made by the East
* First Report of the Commissioners of Excise Inquiiy, 1833, p. 70 and 73.

416

TEA -PLANT.

India Company and their officers in China, disappeared altogether
from the market. " We are unable," say the supercargoes in a let
ter to the directors, " to account for the entire disappearance of
Souchong."* " Even the extraordinary demand which the opening of the trade
in this country has given rise to, has enhanced the price of tea in the
market of China, by no more than six or seven per cent.; and this
amount has only been produced by the exclusion frora England of
the supply which the overstocked markets of Europe and America
could easily have furnished. The capacity of China to furnish a
great supply of tea, is very strikingly illustrated by the facility with
which it has furnished that of green tea, an article not used by the
Chinese themselves at all, except rarely for mediciiial purposes;
which no foreign Asiatic nation, but one, consumes at all; and,
which, in fact, may be said to be grown for the exclusive use of the
nations of the European stock. Green tea did hot come into use
among European nations until many years after black had been in
pretty general use; and yet, at present, the quantity of this comrao
dity exported from China is not short of 15,000,000 lbs. weight, and at
its average value is greater than that of black tea; this cannot be esti
mated at less than a million and a quarter sterling. The enhanced
price of teas in China, produced by the opening of the English trade, it
may safely be predicted, will be of very short duration. Less tea
will be sent to the continent of Europe and to America, until the
stocks there are diminished, and, in the mean time, the Chinese will
be stimulated to plant more tea; and the new plantations will yield
their first crop, as already stated, in so short a period as from two to
three years. The culture, it has been before stated, has already been
extended from two to five provinces; and, if requisite, may be ex
tended to many new ones. The land in which tea is cultivated,
consists of hills or mountains of no remarkable fertility, and not
suited for the production of corn. Of these, notwithstanding the
highly cultivated state of the plains and valleys of China, there is
much unoccupied, and, in fact, in a state of nature. Indeed, it should
be remarked, that of the five provinces in which the culture of tea is
at present carried on, four are the most populous of the whole em
pire; while that in which the greatest part of it is conducted, Fokien,
receives much of its supply of food from abroad. The fear, then, of
China's being unable to furnish an increased supply of tea, is only
* First Report of the Select Committee of the House of Commons, 1830. Ap
pendix, p. 71.

TEA -PLA NT. 417
tin idle chimera, originating in the ignorance of fraudulent represen
tations of monopolists. But for argument's sake, let us suppose that
there was some physical obstacle to the production of tea being at all
increased, as there raay possibly be to the production of Tokay; and
at the worst we should have the old quantity of tea, at a price low
ered by the difference of all that is now got by the monopoly.
" The effects of tea upon the human frame, are those of a very
gentle stimulant, producing an exhilaration of spirits. It is to this
¦alone that it owes its general adoption. With the exception of coffee,
and even this is not so generally congenial, itis the only stimulant
which, taken in considerable quantity, is in no respect deleterious.
The diversity in the flavor of the different varieties is probably fully
•as great as in tiie different varieties of wine. The flavor, and the
-stimulant quality also, are most distinct in the green variety of the
plant, and it is this, consequentiy, which is most apt to disagi'ee with
some constitutions. Even to the use of this, however, custom soon
reconciles the human frame. In the relative quantities of the two
kinds consumed by different nations, accident, caprice, or fashion,
appear to have a very large share. The Chinese themselves, and
the oriental nations generally, hardly consume any thing but black
tea. The English consume in the proportion of but one part of
green to four of black. The Americans, on the contrary, consume
two parts of green to one of black. The English in Bengal, and in
the Australian settiements, scarcely consume any thing but green.
The English at Bombay and Madras, hardly use anything but black
tea. The English merchants and other residents settled at Canton,
follow the example of the Chinese, using black tea alone. In Hol
land, the proportion of black tea used, is much greater than Of
green; and in Russia, nearly the whole consumption consists of
black."* In tiie evening we were visited by our Chinese friend, who carrietl
us to the Garden, and were informed that he was a physiognomist.
At our request, he declared, after a close scrutiny of the counte
nance, what he thought to be the character of several persons pre
sent. He gazed at the individual under examination for sorae time,
and then began, " M« think you good man," and, after a second
look, continued, " but you be more better in ten year more." A se-
cond individual, he declared, would be "more better" in twenty
years, and a third one, who was 'one of your fat men who sleep o'
* Boston Evening Gazette.

418 PHUENOLOGY.
nights,' he pronounced to be a very good man, saying, " Me think
you very contenty inside — in fifty year more you be more better."
These examinations afforded us much amusement; but the physi
ognomist was much struck when I explained to him the general prin
ciples of phrenology, and illustrated thera by an examination of his
head, expressing my opinion of him from its result. He frankly ad
mitted all I said to be true, but seemed very much puzzled to com
prehend how I could speak.so minutely of his character.
He departed, perfectly delighted with phrenology, and gave us an
invitation to visit him the next day.
According to the appointment, he received us at his residence at
twelve o'clock. We first entered an open court, which led to the
inner apartments, or offices, on the ground floor, through one of which
we were conducted up stairs, into a room plainly furnished witii
bamboo sofas, chairs and mahogany tables. Large sheets, filled with
the sayings of Chinese sages, hung upon the walls, in tieu of pictures,
a fashion which is common throughout the empire.
Our host was a man of about thirty-five, of pleasant and gentle
manly manners, and possessed the reputation of being a literary man.
After some common-place observations, we v/ere offered Havana ci
gars; and, in a few minutes afterwards, a table, loaded with a variety
of delicious sweetmeats, was placed in the centre of the room. Tea,
of delightful flavor, followed, served in fine porcelain cups, without
milk or sugar, and in the bottom of each were several expanded tea
leaves. Instead of a saucer, the cup was sustained in a silver tray,
so fashioned as to .embrace the cup very much as the calyx embraces
the corolla of a flower; one leaf, or petal of the calyx being turned
down, answered as a handle to support the whole.
Remarking upon the excellence of this tea, our host told me that
it was not the best tea procurable in China; that the choicest teas
were all consumed at home; some of which sold, in the great cities
of Pekin and Nankin, at thirty dollars a catty, equal to one pound
and a third: that only the commonest sorts reach the Canton market;
that the connoisseurs in tea possessed an exquisite nicety of taste;
from his, account, equal to that of the gentleman who detected, in the
flavor of wine, the taste of iron and leather, derived from a key, with
a leathern tally, which had accidentally dropped into the tun.
After this entertainment, cigars were again served, and our host,
and several Chinese merchants who were of the party, recurred to
the subject of phrenology. From the accounts wliich our host had
given them of the subject, these gentlemen were curious to witness,

phrenology. 419
for themselves, what they had heard of at second hand, and our host
was anxious, perhaps for the sake of his veracity, that they should be
convinced his relations were true. The subject was again explained
to them, and, after examination, an opinion of the leading points of
individual character was expressed. Those who knew the indivi
dual under question decided, that the opinion was correct, and he
himself, acknowledged it to be true. In the same way, several were
examined with a like result. The interest in the subject increased,
and all present became, suddenly, converts to the doctrine; and at
once placed such implicit faith in phrenology, that they sent for
their clerks, here termed pursers, and requested me to express my
opinion of their respective characters, without reserve. One wished
to know whether a young man, who had just submitted his head to
examination, might be safely trusted, if sent into the country to col
lect money. Another asked, in relation to his clerk, " Can me trust
that man go Nankin for pigeon — buy silk — suppose he no stop talk
with gal, and no make he pigeon?" Another inquired if I could de
termine, positively, by examining a married lady's head, whether her
issue would be "one gal or one bull child." Being very anxious
for the latter, and having offered up many prayers to the goddess
Kuan-yin for a son', he was much disappointed to learn that the prac
tical application of phrenology did not extend quite so far.
Our visit lasted more than two hours, and I received many thanks,
and many apologies were offered for troubling me with so many ex
aminations. After this, I was daily visited by numbers of Chinese gentlemen,
always for the object of a phrenological examination. Before leaving
Canton several small presents of choice teas were sent us as a com
plimentary acknowledgment; but none, Isuspect, v/orth thirty dol
lars a catty.
On the day of our departure from "this inner land," our baggage
and purchases were collected at the entrance of the Hong, and the
custom-house mandarins were sent for to examine it. The shop
keepers usually pay the export duties, and give a draft on themselves,
called a chop, for the amount: this chop is given to the mandarin, who
afterwards collects it. The mandarins were content to see the trunks
open, without any scrutiny of their contents, saying that we were,
also, mandarins, meaning to express thereby that they were sensible
to a courtesy of fellow feeling. When they had departed, with their
hands full of "chops," we embarked every thing on board ofa packet-
boat for Macao.

420

CHAPTER XL.

SKETCHES IN CHINA.

June, 1836.
Like the people of every nation, the Chinese have their eulogists,
and their detractors, and few nations are more variously estimated
at a distance, than that of China.
The history of nations wliich have attained to refined civilization,
is properly the history of man. States and nations spring from each
other as in the case of individuals; with the difference, that in fami
lies, the place of those removed by death, nature supplies by the birth
of others in constant and regular succession. But in states, society
disturbs and breaks through this law by sorae fortuitous coinraotion;
and in this manner, ancient monarchies have overturned republics in
their infancy; an erratic and savage people, by their eruptions of vio
lence, have dismembered, broken and finally swallowed up, in their
course, multitudes of nations. China has as yet resisted this fata
lity. Her empire, whose boundaries on the north, are Russian Tar
tary, on the south, the Indian islands; Thibet on the west, and the
ocean on the east, occupies nearly the whole of the eastern extremity
of the Asiatic continent. To frequent wars, to their position, and
other causes, may be attributed the comparative short life and small
extent of European nations, which have destroyed and succeeded
each other in turn;, but the Chinesci shut up and protected on all
sides, either by oceans or deserts, have succeeded in establishing a
permanent state, which claims the astonishing antiquity of four thou
sand years. They never speak of their conquests, but of the wars
they have endured; more happy in civilizing their conquerors than
in destroying their enemies.
In a region so long civilized, deep and ancient traces of industry

AND THE CHINESE. 421
should be perceptible; and vve accordingly find, the plains have been
levelled, preservingonly an inclination sufficient for irrigation, which
is justly considered a grand resource and means of agriculture. Few
trees are met with, because they would absorb the juices of the soil
at the expense of the nutritious grains. Nor do we see here, parks
or extensive woods, destined to be the nursery and shelter of wild
beasts, for the sport of princes and patricians, to the detriment of
husbandmen. In China, the only requisites of a pleasant country retreat, are a con
venient location, an agreeably varied cultivation, a few trees, irregu
larly planted in imitation of nature, and a few mounds of porous stone,
which, at a moderate distance, may be mistaken for rocks or moun
tains. The slopes are terraced; and to detain the rain and spring wa
ters, there are reservoirs, formed with great skill : even the canals and
rivers, passing the bases of hills, are made to irrigate their summits
and declivities, by the application of nieans, which simplifying and
multiplying machinery, diminishes the labor of men, enabling two to
accomplish what a thousand might otherwise hesitate to undertake.
These heights ordinarily yield three crops a year. A sort of plant
yielding oil, is followed by the harvest of cotton, which is- succeeded
by that of potatoes: though not universal, this routine is almost in
variable. In most of the mountains, unsuited to tillage, we find forest trees,
convertible to the purposes of civic and naval architecture. In many
are found mines of iron, white copper, supposed to be a natural alloy of
iron and zinc, copper, and tin, which are wrought with considerable ac
tivity; silver mines also exist; gold mines have been abandoned, either
because enough of that precious metal for commercial purposes was
gathered in the mountain torrents, or because they were not suffi
cientiy productive to pay the expense of working them.
The sea once rolled over the sands, where now stand Nankin and
Che-kiang, the largest provinces of the empire. The Chinese re
pulsed, restrained and lorded it over the ocean, as the Egyptians do
mineered the Nile; they have joined to the continent lands, which
were separated by the waters: the reaction of their industry has been
successfully opposed to the action of the elements, producing results
which might appear supernatural, were they not continuous and sen
sible. In an equal degree, they have forced the capabilities of the
waters and the fertility of the soil. In the midst of rivers, which in
tercommunicate by canals, and traverse most of their cities, are seen
floating towns, formed by an affluence or assemblage of boats, full of

422 CHINA
people, who, devoted to fishing, are born, livie and die upon the wa
ters. The coasts are swarmed with thousands of vessels, their masts
appearing like moving forests. Anson wondered that fishermen, thus
established, were not diverted for a moment frona their labors, to ad
mire his ship, the largest, perhaps, that had, at that time, ever touched
in those places. This indifference only proves, they deemed their
occupation of fishing too important to be neglected for the gratifica
tion of unprofitable curiosity.
The mode of cultivating the earth is not the same throughout the
empire; but varies with the quality of soil and diversity of climate.
In the lower and southern provinces, the land requires a rice conti
nually submerged, which is coarse and affords two crops a year. In
the dry and elevated sections of the interior, the rice, which is of
less volume, taste and substance, yields but one harvest. In the
north, all the grains of Europe grow, and of very good quality. Frora
one extremity to the other, the empire abounds in vegetables, more
particularly in the south, where they form, with fish, the chief arti
cles of diet, but in other provinces the use of meat is common.
The practice of improving lands by manuring is universal; iadeed,
this great system by which nature is made to rise up out of her own
ruins, is better understood, and followed at a greater expenditure of
time and labor, in collecting the materials for compost, which the
Chinese draw from every source, than in any other country in the
world. The great origin and support of rural economy in China are found
in the industrious disposition of the people. They are probably the
most laborious people on earth, and their physical constitution seems
to require less repose. They labor every day in the year except the
first, appropriated for reciprocal visiting among families, and the
last, consecrated to the memory of their ancestors; the first is an obli
gation imposed by society, the last by domestic worship or religion.
They look upon religion, as the bond which unites and civilizes man;
and their religion consists in nothing but the practice of the social
virtues. Some view them as a wise and rational people who act
correctly without requiring the curb of law: their private worship is
the love of their fathers living or dead; their public worship is the
love of labor, and the labor most religiously honored is that of agri
culture. Agriculture is held in such high esteem in China, that those empe
rors are most revered, who, preferring the good of the state to that
of their own house, excluded their own sons frora succession, to place

AM) IHE LHlNESE. 423
.ypon the throne men taken from the plough. The memory of those
illustrious agriculturists is reverenced, w ho sowed the seed of the per
manence and felicity of the empire, by securing the fertility of the
soil, the inexhaustible source of harvests, and of the multiplication
of men. All the emperors of China are husbandmen by the law of
the laud. One of his public duties is to open the soil in the spring,
with a pomp and circumstance which attracts all the farmers in the
neighbourhood of the capital. Great is the concourse to wiiness the
honors which the Prince accords to the queen of arts. He is not, as
in the fables of the Greeks, a god who tends th-..' flocks of the king;
he is the father of his people, uho, taking the plough in his own hands,
points out to his children the true treasures of the state. Soon he
returns to sow the field he has worked; and the example of the
sovereign is followed in all the provinces, and at the same period, the
viceroys or governors, repeat similar ceremonies in the presence of
assembled multitudes. Europeans who have been present at these
ceremonies speak of them in terms of admiration. But we must not
suppose frora this, that the court of Pekin is seriously devoted to
the labors of the field: the arts of luxury are too far advanced, for
these demonstrations to be more than mere ceremonies. This homage
of the sovereign to public opinion, contributes towards its perpetua
tion; and the influence of opinion is the first and best protection of
government. This influence is sustained by bestowing honors upon those who
distinguish themselves in agricultural labors. Any one making a
useful discovery is brought to court, and on communicating it to the
Prince, is sent, at the expense of the government, through the different
provinces to teach his new method. Agriculture has been thus fos
tered frora time immemorial. Every agricultural region, enjoying a
long period of peace, must abound in inhabitants. China is very
populous, and enjoyed or was rather incumbered by her immense
population when conquered by the Tartars: many, therefore, infer
that the laws of the empire were very wise because they were adopted
by the conquerors; but the Tartar consent to the government of
China, does not prove the goodness of its laws. The law of nature
is, that large masses shall control the small, which law obtains as well
in morals as in physics. If we compare the number of the con
querors wilh that of the conquered, it will be seen, that for every
Tartar there were at least fifty Chinamen. One individual cannot
change the manners, customs and laws of fifty men; then how could
the Tartars do otherwise than adopt the laws of China, whether good
or bad, particularly as they had none to institute in their stead.

424 CHINA.
This conquest is worth comparing with that of the Spaniards in the
New World, where, in exception to the general rule, a handftil of
men imposed laws and customs, at the point of the sword, upon a
great number of nations, which were without both, or, those found
among them were badly constituted. The extraordinary revolution
of China, demonstrates the cowardice of the nation, and the indif
ference towards its princes is characteristic of a state of slavery.
The immensity of its population tends to annihilate the sentiment
of tenderness for offspring, which is common to man and brute, and
disposes parents, from selfish motives, to destroy their own children,
without the feelings of the public being outraged, almost making us
tloubt the existence of an innate perception of right and wrong.
May the slow advancement of the arts and sciences in China be
"attributed to the excessive population? Properly speaking, there is no
machinery nor estensive manufacturing establishments in the empire,
similar to those, which, in modern times, have sprung up all over
Europe. They know nothing of the economy of time. Most of the
manufactures, required to supply the commercial houses of Canton,
are made at Fu-shaw, a large town situated a few miles to ,the west-
•^vard of the city: still, the nuraber of hands and the araount of labor
performed is by no means inconsiderable. There are annually era-
ployed in weaving silk, about 17,000 individuals, men, women and
children, which number is increased when there is a pressing demand
for their labors. From the prevalence of a utilitarian principle,
¦always crying cui bono? their improvements have generally halted
* at a point, far short of perfection. It is an evidence of culpable in
difference — a state of mental repose, worthy the name of lethargy,
so contrary to the natural inclination of man, may be attributed to
the overgrown population; since their urgent necessities require that
all their powers should be directed to the acquisition of the common
sustenance of life, leaving them but little time either for reflection
or retirement. The population of the empire is reckoned at 360
millions, and it is supposed one hundred millions are capable of
bearing arms. Supposing China to be the most populous region of
the universe, does it not follow, as a natural consequence, that it is
the most corrupt? Experience teaches, that the vices of communi
ties are in proportion to the number of individuals composing them.
Can we suppose, that the custoras of the Chinese, throughout their
extensive empire, are more unchangeable than in great European
cities, where honor, a sentiment unknown in China, lends splendor
to virtue, and, to a great extent, tempers vice?
It does not appear that these people possess the refinement which

AND THE CHINESE. 425
has been claimed for them. Impunity of crime is rather the distin
guishing mark of a barbarous than of a civilized nation. Though
every circumstance suggests to them colonization, they do not com
prehend its policy, or they disdain resorting to a means so simple and
so safe, to drain the surplus population, preferring their everlasting
distress. What neither the providence nor prudence of the govern
ment will undertake, circumstances have compelled many to attempt.
Necessity has driven thousands from their homes in China, to seek a
livelihood in other countries. They are found at Batavia, where, for
a century past, thousands annually arrive, but, comparatively, few
return. In Banka, they are employed in the tin mines; at Sin
gapore, they are mechanics or traders; and in Borneo they are
numerous, and variously employed; in Bankok, they compose four-
fifths of the population: in short, they are scattered from Bom
bay, through India, both continental and insular, scarcely a town in
the vast extent being without thera. They are superior to all the
other people of the East, on account of their habitual industry, and
their labor is more profitable! The relative value of tiie labor of
Chinese, Malays, and Chouliahs, (natives of the Malabar and Coro
mandel coasts,) at Penang, or Prince of Wales' Island, is thus stated
by Mr. Crawfurd, in his "Embassy to Siam and Cochin-China:" a
Malay field laborer works but twenty-six days in the raonth, and re
ceives $2.50 wages; a Chouliah works twenty-eight days, and re
ceives $4.00; a Chinaman thirty days, and receives $6.00. Therefore,
the labor of a Chinese is worth fifty per cent, more than that of a
Chouliah; a Chouliah's seventy-five per cent, more than that of a
Malay, and the Chinese one hundred and twenty per cent, beyond
the latter.
A love of his native soil, a comraon feeling to all men, induces
raany of these Chinese adventurers, after acquiring a little property,
to return to their respective provinces, where they are, in general,
soon despoUed, under some miserable pretext, by the Chinese au
thorities. On emigrating, they join some one of the secret societies,
found every where, existing as branches of the great Triad society,
the object of which is to overthrow the Tartar government; and if
the branch to which they belong happen to be fewer in number than
others in the place' where they return, they become subject to false
accusations, which are sworn to by hundreds of that society, while
those of their own brotherhood are afraid to step forward in their be-
. half. They do not murder, but their victims are occasionally enticed
to the hill country, and there flogged to death.
54

426

CHINA

Nobility, in China, does not consist in ancestral and hereditary
honors, but in personal rewards; the simple title of noble does not
give distinction, which is here the meed of merit alone. Many ma
gistrates, and persons in dignified situations, are selected from fami
lies whose only occupation is the labors of the field. The merit of
a son ennobles the father, but this pre-eminence ends with him.
This law may be admired, though we know that hereditary nobility,
also, possesses advantages. Where is there an individual so base,
who does not feel the weight of a name, descended through a long
line of distinguishing ancestry, and feel emulous to preserve his ho
nors, and hand them down to his descendants unstained. But no
bility in China is not what it is in Europe. The mandarins, and peo
ple in high office, are almost universally selected from a certain class,
called the literary, so that the pursuit of letters is the high road to
official preferment. The literary institutions of China are the pillars
of the government. Her military forces are inadequate to hold to
gether the numerous and extensive provinces and territories that con
stitute the wide domain of the reigning dynasty. Both the army and
navy have become enervated and dissolute. " As police-men, in the
capacity of lictors, thief-takers, and executioners, they are not less
detested than feared by the comraon people. They are, in fact, for
all purposes of defence, little better than dead men; nay, were they
stricken frora the catalogue of the living, we can scarcely doubt that
the stability of the empire would remain unimpaired."*
High rank in the state is the greatest glory to which this people
aspire; and, because it brings them within reach of that dazzling
prize, learning is chiefly valuable in their eyes. Strict examina
tions, regulated by a fixed code of laws, have been instituted and de
signed, solely to elicit from the body of the coraraunity, ' the true ta
lent' of the people, with the ulterior intention of applying it to pur
poses of government. At these examinations, which are open to all
except menial servants, lictors, play-actors, and priests, it is deter
mined who shall rise to distinction, and shed glory back on their an
cestors, and forward, upon their posterity, and who shall live on in
obscurity, and die and be forgotten. The competitors at the Olym
pic games never entered the arena before the assembled thousands of
their countrymen v/ith deeper emotion than that which agitates the
bosoms of those who contest the palm at these literary combats. The
days on which they are held, and their results published in Canton,
are the proudest its inhabitants ever witness.
* Chinese Repository.

AND THE CHINESE. 427
" The highest literary examinations in the empire, are triennial,
and take place at Peking. Besides these stated, there are also occa
sional examinations which are granted by special favor of the empe
ror. Up to these contests the most distinguished scholars go from
all the provinces. This privilege is not gained without long, patient,
and successful endeavor; the examinations, at which it is deter
mined who shall enjoy it, occur also triennially, and are held in the
metropolis of each province. These examinations are of incompar
able interest to great multitudes of people in every department and
district of the empire. High honors, rich emoluments, and, in a
word, every thing that the young aspirant and his numerous kindred
most esteem, are at stake."*
Though many thousand candidates offer, only a limited number
can obtain the degree which entitles them to the highest trial in the
capital of the celestial empire. Many individuals spend their lives
in anxious study, and submit to frequent examinations, without ever
reaching the goal of their ambition. Hence it is, that the most re
spectable families destine one or more sons to become competitors
for literary distinction; but often leave the rest uneducated, and ig
norant even of reading and writing.
Whatever, from its nature, cannot be divided, as the sea, rivers
and canals, is common property; navigation, fishing and hunting are
free; the domain of the citizen is not subject to feudal laws. This
is a rational state of things; but in a densely populous country, people
cannot forego their crops, to convert their fields into parks or hunt
ing grounds, nor can the wealthy arrogate to themselves exclusive
privileges of wilds and waters: these laws, then, are rather the result
of necessity than prudence.
The eulogists of China declare, that the priests dare not assert
odious pretensions over men or property, nor have they ever at
tempted to do so. They are certainly very numerous, and enjoy,
even the mendicants themselves, large possessions, but without any
perceptible tax on citizens: they would hold the priest to be insane,
who should support hiraself, whatever he requires being due to the
sanctity of his character. This, however, others deny, and tell us,
the priests are raore intriguing, raore dissolute and more idle than
those of any other country, besides being the most importunate beg
gars in the world.
Toleration in China only extends to the religions ancientiy esta-
• Chinese Repository.

428 CHINA
blished in the empire; Christianity has been proscribed, and edicts
are fulminated against it from time to time. For this reason, ac
counts of the success of the missionaries in Canton are not published
in the "Chinese Repository," fearing that their converts might be
seized through such reports and banished to Tartary.
With the exception of the customs, collected in the sea-ports,
only two taxes are known in the empire; one, a personal tax, paid
by every individual according to his means, from the age of twenty
to that of seventy years, and the other upon produce, which is either
a tenth, twentieth or thirtieth, according to the qualities of the soil.
The manner of collecting these taxes is as paternal as the contribu
tions themselves. The only charge of the public on those of small
means, is to billet upon them the aged, the sick, and the poor, until
their tax be thus paid off.
The mandarins receive the tithes in kind, and the capitation tax
in money; the municipal officers deliver these to the treasury,
through the hands of the provincial treasurers. The destination of
these revenues precludes mal-practice in their collection. It is
known that one part is devoted to the maintenance of the magistrates
and military; the proceeds of the part sold is not issued from the
treasury, except in case of public necessity; and, finally, the remain
der is stored for tirae of need; so that what they loaned in times of
abundance is again paid back to the people. Yet in spite of these
precautions, and the encouragement given for the importation of rice,
severe distress often falls upon the poor. Death by starvation
amongst the indigent about Canton, is of alraost daily occurrence.
We occasionally see notices of donations to provide for the burial of
the poor, who have thus miserably perished, and for the support of
those, who, with life, have overcome the horrors of their condition;
but the pittance given is often beneath contempt.
The eulogists of the Chinese contend, that man must multiply prodi
giously, in a nation enjoying so raany advantages; a nation remai'ka-
ble for the fecundity of feraales; where libertinism is very rare;
where the extension of paternal rights and authority, necessarily in
spires a passion for a numerous offspring; where rights are equal;
where the mode of life is simple, and always conducted with a strict
view to economy; where bloody wars are not frequent; vvhere cus
tom inhibits celibacy; where the climate is healthy, and epidemics
almost unknown. As no country is more favored in these respects,
no country is more populous; and, indeed, it is too much so; for the
annals of the empire prove, tiiat a failure of the crops rarely occurs

A.VD THE CHINESE. 429
vfithout being followed by popular commotions. It is not necessarv,
they continue, to seek farther for the causes that restrain the march
of despctism. These frequent revolutions suppose a people suffi
ciently civilized to know what respect is due to propertv; that the
submission they concede to the laws are secondarv oblitrations, sub
ordinate to the unalienable rights ot nature, which have constituted
society only for the convenience of all its members: and the mo
ment they are in want of necessaries, the Chinese acknowledge a
power which does not support them, fur the obligation of preservino;
the people constitutes the rightful dutv of sovereigns.
The emperor is aware, that he reigns over a people who observe
the laws no farther than these contribute to their happiness: that if
he should act in a tyrannical spirit, he would run the risk of being
hurled from his throne. In this, there is no great difference between
the Chinese and Europeans, as is abundantly seen both in modern
and ancient history. The sovereign placed at the head of a people,
who observe and judge of his acts, does not erect himself into a be
ing to whom every thing is permitted; he does not break the sacred
contract under which he holds his sceptre: he is so well convinced,
that the people understand their rights, and possess the power of de
fending them, that, when they join in opposition to the mandarin go
verning a province, he at once displaces him, and delivers him over
to trial, without any previous investigation of his case; and even if
acquitted, he does not send him back, because it is considered a
crime to have incurred the displeasure of the people. This compla
cency, which, in other countries, is a constant source of intrigue and
discord, is found not to be inconvenient in China, because its inhabi
tants are naturally of a mUd disposition and lovers of justice. Since
necessity forces the prince to be just, it ought also to make him pru
dent and foreseeing.
It seems, that both the laws and customs of China join in esta
blishing it as a fundamental principle, that the Chinese nation is one
family, of which the emperor is the patriarch. He exercises his au
thority as a father, and not as a conqueror, nor as a legislator; and it
is impossible to imagine the high respect and love the Chinese bear
their sovereign, or, as they style him, their common, their universal
father. This popular homage is founded on that established bv do
mestic education. In China, both father and mother maintain an
absolute authority over their children, no matter what may be their
age, or how high the rank to which they may have attained. And
this is but just, because the parents are responsible for the acts of

430 CHINA
their children. If a son commit murder and escape, the father's
head may satisfy the demands of justice. Paternal authority and
filial love are the walls of the empire; they are the protection and
support of its customs; and the bond of union, as well between the
prince and his subjects as between themselves.
The Chinese government, in its march towards perfection, has
reached the point whence all other governments set out; a patriar
chal government is that of nature itself.
But, on closer examination, we find the emperor of China is a des
pot, weiaring the titleof father. The Chinese live under a double
despotism; parental tyranny, and the civil tyranny of the crown.
Whence we may infer, what is true, that they are the mildest, the
most insinuating, the most plausible, the most respectful, and, at the
same time, the most vile, the most cowardly and submissive of slaves.
What is the effect of paternal despotism, but to produce outward re
spect and latent feelings of resentment towards the parent? And
what is the effect of civil despotism upon the individuals of a na
tion? — Baseness and the extinction of every moral virtue. A patri
archal government, according to our notions, can only exist in a tribe
pursuing a pastoral life in a limited territory, and is chimerical when
applied to a population of three hundred and sixty millions of peo
ple, spread over a vast empire. Neither the emperor nor his man
darins, if they possess any knowledge of themselves or their own
acts, can believe in its existence. They must smile at the decep
tion, they practise upon their slaves.
Religion exercises no influence upon the government. The diffe
rences of sects and their disputes cause neither wars nor distur
bance. The literary mandarins, the body from which all civil offi
cers are appointed, presiding at the examinations above mentioned,
select those only to become members of their class, who are to their
taste; nor do they permit the priests to interfere in matters of go
vernment, nor to make their own dogmas the base of public morals.
Confucius, whose memory and doctrines are equally revered by all
classes and sects, and whose precepts were illustrated by his own ex
emplary practice, founded the national religion of China. His code
is the natural law in action. Confucius teaches, that reason is an
emanation from divinity; the supreme law is the concordance of na
ture and reason, and that these guides are coramunicated from hea
ven, or God. The Chinese have no epithet for God in their lan
guage, but speak of him as " Master of heaven." The emperor is
the pontiff and judge in religious matters. This unity of power might

AND THE CHINESE. 431
be dangerous, were it not kept in check, by national customs and
public opinion, which are ingrafted upon the minds of the people by
early education.
Before five yeare old, the Chinese do not pretend to instruct their
children. At that age tiiey are taught to write words, or rather hie
roglyphics, which are representatives of tangible things: after this,
they commit to raeraory sententious verses, and moral maxims of
the sages. At a more advanced age, they are taught the philosophy
of Confucius. Such is the comraon education. Those who are des
tined to become competitors for literary honors, and a place in the
class of literary mandarins, add other studies, the object of which is
to point out the proper conduct of man in various situations of life.
Another branch of education is the study of the code of cereraony
of etiquette, in the observance of which the Chinese are scrupulously
exact. They accord a species of worship to urbanity, which, to a cer
tain extent, conduces to the harraony of society; though it tends to
repress raental activity, much in the same manner that external wor
ship makes hypocrites while it assists true religion. There are tri
bunals for the punishment of infractions of the established laws of
courtesy, as well as for those of moral rectitude.
There are persons who are disposed to view and extol the Chinese
as a nation of sages, without pausing to consider their many crimes
and imperfections. They are a people who destroy their own tender
offspring; a nation wherein the most infamous crimes are coramon;
where the crimes arising from want, are neither punished nor pre
vented; where the merchant cozens his fellow-citizen and the stran
ger; where a knowledge of the language is the remotest boundary
of science; where a language and a literature, scarcely adequate to the
common purposes oflife, have remained for ages unimproved; where
the guardians of raorals are people without honor or probity; where
justice is venal to an extent unexampled on the face of the earth;
where the great legislator Confucius, so much revered, is unworthy
perusal, unless we excuse the poverty of his writings in considera
tion of the ignorance of the times in which he lived; where a chain
of beings, from the emperor to the lowest vassal, live by preying
one upon another; and where the sovereign permits no one to fatten,
except with the design of sucking his blood, when it may suit his
imperial appetite; and who, by despoiling those who have abused
power under him, has obtained the title of avenger of his people!
Those who have visited China unanimously agree, that the great-

432 CHINA
est caution is requisite to avoid being cheated; in fact, " As great a
cheat as a Chinaman," has become a proverb.
A European merchant„after receiving on board his vessel the goods
he had purchased, discovered that he had been deceived both in their
quality and price; but as he asked a small deduction on this account
he did not doubt, the Chinaman would readily come into his views.
The European began, " You have sold me merchandise of a very
inferior quality."
" That may be, but you must pay."
" You have treated me unjustly and abused my confidence."
" That may be true, but you must pay."
"Then you are a cheat and a scoundrel."
"That may be, but you must pay me, nevertheless."
" How do you wish me to speak of the Chinese in Europe, where
they are supposed to be virtuous? I wUl say you are a set of
cheats." "You can do that," coolly replied the Chinaman, "but you must
pay-" The European, after heaping abuse upon the fellow, and fretting
himself into a rage, without obtaining any thing farther than the
calm reply, " you must pay," was forced to count down the money.
On receiving it, the Chinaman said, " Instead of getting yourself into
a passion, would it no be more better, you no have speaky, and begin
where you have finish?"
Not long since, a gentleman met at Honan, opposite to Canton, an
unfortunate Chinaman, who had broken an arm. Compassion for
his situation induced him to carry the poor fellow to a physician across
the river to dress the fracture. The gentleraan fpr some time paid the
fellow's daily ferriage, but as the arm had improved, ceased to do so.
One day he asked the patient why he had neglected to visit the
physician. " Because," he replied, " you no have give money, pay
sam-pan. This one very fine thing for you, to have make well my
arm this fashion; but me no come doctor house no more, you no
pay." Such is the shameless effrontery and cool impudence of the Chi
nese, which seem to be also parts of their education.
Their notions of justice may be gathered from the following anec
dotes related to me by the parties concerned.
A lady at Macao put into the hands of a Chinese tailor, materials,
valued at forty dollars, to be made into a garment. At the appointed

AND THE CHINESE. 433
time, it was brought home, but to her mortification, the material had
been completely spoiled, and the habit was not fit to wear. It was
returned upon the workman's hands, and the husband of the lady
applied to the Portuguese authorities for redress; but was put off,
under one pretext or another, from time to time, till his patience was
exhausted. He now applied to a mandarin, and offered to give him
the material in the tailor's hands, provided he should succeed in
making him pay twenty dollars as damages, which were also to be
long to the officer of justice. The Chinese officer wiUingly under
took the case, and in a day or two, reported somewhat in the follow
ing manner: " Mehave squeezey that tailor-man that silk, and that
twenty dollar, me thinkey you one very good man, one man what
know justice, and law; me likey you; suppose you please, me give
you my son, for one servant, so he learn justice all sarae from you!"
On another occasion the sarae lady employed a tailor to make two
dresses. He brought home one of them and demanded pay for niaking
both. The lady told him she would do so when the other dress was
finished. " How can finish that other one piece dress — some man
steal him, now me no got the silk."
Of their mode of reasoning we may form some idea from an anec
dote in relation to the late Lord Napier, who was termed by them
an " eye," it would seem the only word they could find in their lan
guage equivalent to the term superintendent; and certainly it is suf
ficiently symbolic of the superintendent's official duties.*
The British merchants were anxious to inipress upon the Chinese
that Lord Napier was a man of exalted rank, and consequently could
not submit to the indignity of communicating with the government
through the medium of the Hong merchants. They told them, he
was a lord, a nobleman, which the Chinese, having no hereditary no
bility except in the family of the emperor, could not clearly com
prehend. They remarked, " He is a nobleman in your country; how
many men are there, of the saime rank?" and were told, "a great many,
perhaps a thousand."
" Are there any people of higher rank?"
* There is a remarkable disposition on the part of the English translators of
Chinese to be literal; and hence itis, we find "barbarian" for foreigner, "eye,"
for superintendent, &c. Would it not be better in these cases to forego the
ridiculous, and render the Chinese words by the English equivalents, as is prac
tised in translating other languages? What would be said of one who should
seriously set down ground apple, as the English of pomme de ierre?
55

434 CHINA AND THE CHINESE.
" Yes, Viscount."
" Well; how many Viscounts have got?"
" A great many."
" Well, any of higher rank than Viscounts?"
" Yes; Earis."
" Well; any more?"
" Yes; Marquises."
" Well; any more?"
" Yes; Dukes."
" Well; any higher than dukes?"
" None except the king and royal family."
" Well, then, now me know, this eye. Lord Napier, all the sarae
as one common mandarin!"
The charity of the Chinese, to judge from their charitable institu
tions at Canton, is not very active. There is a foundling hospital,
an alms-house, and an hospital for lepers, which are supported by du
ties levied on foreign ships. Within a few years, a dispensary, under
the successive care of European or American physicians, has been
opened. At present it is under the management of the Rev. Peter
Parker, M. D., who is indefatigable in his exertions, and, thus far,
his surgical operations, chiefly for diseases of the eye, have been very
successful. I paid a short visit to the establishment, when there were
from eighty to one hundred patients, receiving, in turn, professional
advice and medicine.
Patriotism, if such a sentiment exist, displays itself in making
roads, planting trees on the roads, and erecting lodges to shelter the
traveller. They esteem China and its inhabitants to be superior to
all the rest of the world, and treat all foreigners with contemptuous
condescension. Wedded to their own country entirely, the Chinese
neither derive frora, nor lend aid to other people. It is difficult to
form an accurate opinion of this nation; for strangers are not allowed
to enter it, nor are its own subjects allowed free egress and return.
But, we may doubt their pre-eminence until they bring us works in
philosophy superior to those of Locke, Descartes, or Spurzheim;
works on mathematics, equal to those of Newton, Leibnitz, and their
successors; works in general literature, worth perusal; or painting,
statuary, and architecture that may claim admiration. What is Con
fucius when placed beside Franklin, Bacon, or Montesquieu?*
• In compiling this chapter, Staunton's China, the Chinese Repository, and
La Historia de Ios Establecimientos Ultramarinos have been the chief sources of
information, and have been freely used.

SKETCHES

BONIN ISLANDS.

ISLAND OF KORMOSA. 437

CHAPTER XLI.

SKETCHES IN THE BONIN ISLANDS.
July, 1836.
At five o'clock, P. M., on the 23d of June, the Peacock got under
way, in company with the Enterprise, and both vessels stood sea
ward, among the Ladrones, a group of small islands in the vicinity
of this part of the coast of China. The name is derived frora the
Portuguese, and given by them from being a lurking place, from the
remotest period to the present time, for hordes of Chinese pirates.
In 1809-10, the pirates navigated 1800 vessels, large and small,
manned by 70,000 individuals;* a numerical force greater than that
of the British navy at the present day.
For the first few days the weather was a succession of squalls, rain,
calms, and hot sunshine, and the wind prevailed from the northward
and eastward. We came in sight of the island of Formosa, and had
determined'to pass through the Forraosa passage, and enter the Pa
cific Ocean by doubling the north end of the island; but, fortunately,
the wind proved more favorable, and we were enabled to follow the
Bashee passage, between the south end of Forraosa and a group of
sraall islands called the Bashee.
Formosa is mountainous, and sustains a numerous population, es
timated at between two and three millions. In 1683, after the con
quest of China by the Tartars, it fell into the hands of the Chinese:
previous to that tirae, however, the Dutch had established theraselves,
and were expelled (1624) by the Chinese conquerors. The western
side of the island, alone, is under the Chinese yoke, and seems not
to be held quietly; for, constant struggles are made by the aborigines
from the eastern side of the mountain chain which divides the island,
• Chinese Repository, vol. iii.

438

BONIN ISLES.

to free themselves. The island is considered as a department of the
province of Fuh-keen; it supplies China with sugar, rice, and cam
phor, in large quantities.
Formosa is adrairably situated for trade. It is within ninety
miles of China, and four hundred and fifty of Japan, and still less of
the Philippines. Should any European power desire an insular
position, with a view to commerce with China and Japan, a more de
sirable one cannot easily be found.
We scarcely entered the Pacific Ocean before we found a general
improvement in the sick, though the weather was not uniform, or
remarkably pleasant. On the evening of the 14th of July, we raade
the Bonin Islands; and the next day, at half past two o'clock, P. M.,
piloted by Mr. Savary, who came off to us in a canoe, we anchored
in Port St. William, as it is to be in future called, though formerly
known as Port Lloyd, or Port St. George.
The Enterprise, Captain G. N. Hollins, had anchored about three
hours before us.
" Oh, had we some bright little isle of our own.
In a blue summer ocean, far off and alone.
Where a leaf never dies in the still blooming bowers.
And banquets on through a whole year of flowers;
Where the sun loves to pause
With so fond a delay.
That the night only draws
A thin veil o'er the day;
Where simply to feel that we breathe, that we live.
Is worth the best joy that life elsewhere can give.
" There, with souls ever ardent and pure as the clime.
We should love, as they loved in the first golden time;
The glow of the sunshine, the balm of the air,
' Would steal to our hearts and make all summer there!
With affection, as free
From decline as the bowers.
And with Hope, like the bee
Living always on flowers.
Our life should resemble a long day of light,
And our death come on, holy and calm as the night I"
Thus sang and sighed a half dozen hardy sons of the ocean, about
the year 1829. They had tried their fortunes in every clime; they
had attempted continents and isles; but Dame Fortune alwaysfrowned
upon their efforts. They were at the Sandwich Islands, tired of the

noNiN ISLES. 439
world, when they heard the Bonin Isles were a paradise, not only
of the mighty Pacific, but of the whole world. Its waters were re
presented, truly, to abound in fish and turtle, and its wilds in game,
its shores with safe harbors, its mountainous surface in beautiful val
leys, and its soil was capable of producing every thing without cul
tivation or toil. The Bonin Islands offered them, then, a place where
they might retreat from all the cares and vexations of the world,
and for the future be free frora all anxiety. They flattered them
selves, that the soil would produce so abundantly, that they would
be soon enabled to supply vessels employed in whale fishing, with fresh
fruits and vegetables, which in a short time would result in competency
and even fortune to theraselves, when they might return again to the
society of the world.
In this mind, Mathew Mazarra, a Genoese, Alden B. Chapin,
Nathaniel Savary of Massachusetts, Richard Millechamp of England,
and Charles Johnson of Denmark, set sail from the Sandwich
Islands, accompanied by several of the natives, male and female,
who served thera as servants and wives. In June, 1 830, they arrived
at the haven of their hopes, and before reaching the land, they found
they had been misled, but it was too late to retreat. They landed
and began the settlement of that island of the group, called by Captain
Beechey, Peel's Island.
" These islands, which are about twenty-nine degrees east of Can
ton and eight south frora Jeddo, are most conveniently situated for
watching the trade of China on the west, the Philippines on the
south, and Russia on the north; and if any intercourse is soon to be
opened with the Japanese, they form the position from which it could
be most easily effected. The earliest account which we find of the
Bonin Islands, is contained in Koempher's History of Japan. ' About
the year 1675,' says the historian, ' the Japanese accidentally dis
covered a very large island, one of their barks having been forced
there in a storm from the island of Fatsisio, from which they com
puted it to be three hundred miles distant towards the east. They
met with no inhabitants, but found it to be a very pleasant and fruit
ful country, well supplied with fresh water, and furnished with
plenty of plants and trees, particularly the arrack tree, which, how
ever, might give room to conjecture, that the island lay rather to the
south of Japan than to the east, these trees growing only in hot
countries. And because they found no inhabitants upon it, they
called it Bunin Sima, or the Island Bunin, (in Chinese woojin —
without people,) the uninhabited island. On the shores they found

440 BONIN ISLES.
an immense number of fish and crabs, some of whicli, were from four
to six feet long;' "* probably turtle.
In September, 1825, the port was visited by an English ship,
naraed the Supply, and in 1826, the Wdliam, a whale ship belong
ing to London, was lost here, owing to neglect. In June, 1827, the
port was visited by Captain Beechey in H. B. M. Ship Blossom.
When he arrived off the harbor, they met two individuals in a
boat, who proved to be a part of the crew of the unfortunate Wil
liam. " This ship, which had once belonged to His Majesty's ser
vice, had been anchored in the harbor in deep water, in rather an
exposed situation, the port then not being well known, and had part
of her cargo upon deck, when a violent gust of wind from the land
drove her from her anchors, and she struck upon a rock in a small
bay close to the entrance, where in a short time she went to pieces.
All the crew escaped, and established themselves on shore as well as
they could, and immediately commenced building a vessel from the
wreck of the ship, in which' they intended to proceed to Manila;
but before she was completed, another whaler, the Timor, touched
there and carried them all away, except our two visiters, who re
mained behind at their own request. They had been several months
upon the island, during which time, they had not shaved, or paid any
attention to their dress, and were very odd-looking beings. The
master, Thomas Younger, had unfortunately been killed by the fall
ofa tree, fifteen days previous to the loss of the ship, and was buried
in a sandy bay on the eastern side of the harbor."t
The Blossom remained from the 8th till the 15th of June. Cap
tain Beecliey took formal possession of the island in the name of His
Britannic Majesty, and nailed to a tree a sheet of copper, with the
necessary particulars engraved thereon. He naraed the harbor, in
compliment to the Bishop of Oxford, Port Lloyd, and the island in
which it is situated Peel's Island.
In August, 1834, the American barque Volunteer touched at the
Bonin Islands to procure supplies. Having been informed, at the
Sandwich Islands, that the settlers had gone to the south island, she
made for that first, and, after a fruitless search for them of three
days, found them on the south of the north island; and on the 24th,
under the pilotage of Mr. Mazarra, the ship was worked into the
harbor, now named by the settlers Port St. George. The latitude is
• Chinese Repository, 1835.
f Beechey's Voyage to the Pacific and Beerings' Straits. Philadelphia, 1832.

PORT ST. wii.liamI 441
27° 6' 30" north, and the longitude 142° 16' east.* Their position,
on the raost modern chart, is very much to the westward.
We found the entrance of the harbor, the approach to which is
very pretty, to be on the south-western side of the island. The rocks
are, in many places, castellated, and sorae of them, on close exami
nation, present the appearance of rude masonry, wherein the stones
had been piled up loosely together, and a mortar, or cement, after
wards poured in amongst them. Within a few miles of the coast are'
seen, here and there, a fragment of rock standing above the sea, like
a sentry-box, or watch-tower.
The general outline of the bay is oval, being about a mile and ai
half long, and three-quarters ofa mile wide, having the entrance to
wards the southern end, which, between the promontory, on the south
side, and the quoin-shaped rock, nientioned by Beechey, we esti
mated to be half a mile wide. The breadth pf the channel, how
ever, does not exceed a quarter of a mUe. The land round the bay
is broken into numerous angular hills by ravines, rather than valleys,;
beautifully green with close-growing trees and shrubs, which flourish-
to the water's edge. The average height of the hills is, perhaps, four
hundred feet; and the highest point does not, probably, exceed six
hundred. The shore of the harbor is broken into several small bays,
or coves, bounded by white sand beaches, which, contrasting with
the blue sheet of water, and, here and there, the white spray dashing
over a dark rock, imparts a picturesqueness to the whole scene.
However bright the picture to a sea-weary voyager, or however
fit for the pencil, Mazarra and his followers saw nothing in the deep
ravines, and fan-leaf palra, and cabbage-tree, to invite them to esta
blish their home upon this uninhabited island. Biit it was too late to
turn back. Though disappointed to find there were no plains of any
extent, and the small basins of level land among the hills were co
vered by a close jungle, they set to work, and now show, with no
little satisfaction, the result of their tedious and painful toil. The
sarae industrious perseverance in the ' far west ' would have raade
thera comparatively rich men;- but here their snugly thatched cabins
are valueless, in the event of their leaving the island, which is not
improbable, and then their six years' labor is th^-own away. Nor
have they been free frora those difficulties from which they fled.
They found here, as every where else, tiiat raan is doomed to earn
his bread by the sweat of his brow. Until their first harvest, theie
* Chinese Repository, 1835.
56

442 THE BONIN ISLES.
food consisted almost entirely of turtle and the pith of the cabbage-
tree, which no one eats except from necessity. Instead of a mild
and benignant clime, every year has brought typhoons and earth
quakes, and the numerous uptorn trees bear testimony of the vio
lence of these storms. Indeed they have never been able to obtain
bananas, for the reason that, about the period of their maturity, the
plant is destroyed, or torn away by a typhoon. Neither the phases
of the weather nor the prevalence of the wind have been regular in
their succession any two years.
Besides these difficulties, dissensions crept into their little com
munity, and still exist. They have been several times annoyed by
refractory seamen, turned on shore by the masters of whale-ships,
where, being without a fear of punishment, they have committed out
rage and violence to an extent seriously detrimental to the prosperity
ef the settlement. In 1833, the whaler Cadmus left fifteen men on
shore, among whom were some of daring character, who put the set
tlers at defiance: eight of thera perished in an atterapt to leave the
island in a whale-boat, and the rest have been since taken away.
Within a few days, a written code has been agreed to by all the
settlers, now fourteen in number, the principal features of which are,
that all disputes shall be decided by the opinion of the majority; that,
henceforward, no individual shall instruct or assist any vessel in
taking turtie, nor shall any one sell turtie, or feed his hogs upon
it; no one shall maltreat the slaves or servants of another, or en
deavor to seduce any woman from her lord; nor shall any one en
courage men to desert from ships arriving at the island; but, on the
contrary, use every effort to apprehend and return every deserter to
his vessel. This code is signed and sworn to by all; and it is re
markable, that only three of the fourteen are capable of writing their
names: Mazarra, the most respected among them, is not one of the
latter number.
The morality of- the community is, I fear, of a low grade, and re
ligion is out of the question. Most of the white men have one or two
wives, natives of the Sandwich Islands. In all, there are nineteen
women on the island, araong whom infanticide and infidelity, which
they are at no pains to conceal from their husbands, are coramon:
and this in a population not exceeding forty souls I
On the evening of our arrival, I accompanied several officers in
pursuit of turtle. We landed on one of the sand beaches in the bay,
under the dark shade of the high land. We had scarcely sprung on
shore, before a turtle weighing between two and three hundred pounds

TURTLE-HUNTING. 443
was found, and turned upon his back. Encouraged by this success
we searched the whole beach very carefully, but without finding any
thing. We now divided the party, and took our stations along the
sand to await until the animals should come up from the deep, as
they are wont to do at night to deposite their eggs. The sky was
bright with stars, and there was a dead silence, only interrupted by
the sullen splash of the sea: we lay shrouded in the shade of the rocks
beneath wide spreading trees; and the whole scene disposed the raind
to wander from present objects. I gazed upon the heavens, and won
dered that man could become so lost to his own interest, and in af
fection for friends at home, as to prefer an exile " The world forget
ting, and by the world forgot," on an isle like this,
"In a blue summer ocean, far off and alone,"
to pursuing an honest life beneath his native skies.
The revery was broken by a canoe gliding gently upon the sand,
and two athletic forms leaped silently upon the shore, and drew their
frail bark after them. They advanced towards us without speaking,
and we could discern through the deep shadow of the hills, that they
were seamen in coarse shirts and. trousers. They proved to be Ame
ricans who had been nearly a year on the island; and were now on
the same errand with ourselves. They told us they were out every
night, and the beach we were upon, was a very good one for our pur
pose. They led us into the edge of ' the bush ' where the turties go to
lay their eggs, and after a little while, we found one as large as our
first prize.
A fellow feeling and sociability had suddenly grown up between
the new-comers and our boat's crew. The two quondam whalers at
once aided them in dragging the turtle to the boat, and assumed a
generous contempt for an animal, over which an alderman's eyes
would have sparkled, when some one gave a hint about " the poor fel
lows having a share." "Why, we have it every day," said they, as
they launched their little canoe, and with one or two strokes of the
paddle urged it out of sight, though not out of ear shot; for the stroke
of their paddles and the sound of their voices were heard some time
afterwards. After watching another hour we returned on board, and found ano
ther party had been more successful, having taken five.
From February till August, great numbers of turtle visit the sandy
beaches, where they deposite their eggs in the sand beyond the reach
of the tide. In a few weeks the process of incubation is completed

444

CLARKSTON.

by the heat of the sun alonej and the young turtles, nunibering frofn
one to five hundred in each nest, betake themselves to the water.
The half grown turties may be taken on shingle and rocky shores,
but never on sand beaches. After the season they disappear, and,
from some of them having been taken with Japanese hooks in them,
are supposed to visit the coast of Japan. Dampier, speaking on this
subject in his voyages, expresses his opinion that the habits of turtles
are migratory.
While here, we caught about .forty, any two of which furnished
ample food for one hundred and eighty persons during a day. Not
withstanding the innumerable eggs deposited and hatched, the set
tlers think the number has in the past years diminished, and hence
the regulation abqye mentioned in relation to them. They suppose
the turtle does not attain its fulf size in less than five years. When
they first escape from the egg, they are about the size of a dollar; and
when full grown, frova. four to six feet long.
¦The next day we pullefl ashore, and landed near a mass of rock
standing apart from the shore and connected to it by a flat of broken
stones, over which we made our way to the beach. It is narrow, and
forms a dividing line between Port William and a small bay, which
opens more to the southward. Here Mr. Mazarra met us, and fed us
towards the little village, at the entrance of which are several broad
leafed trees. Several Sandwich islanders, men and women, were
lounging on some rough hewn logs, beneath their shade. We halted
here for aTnoraent, and Mr. Chapin and an Englishman came forward
to welcome us. The latter was tremulous, and had a wild, expres
sion, which betrayed his fatal addiction to the abuse of intoxicating
spirits. We learned afterwards, that three barrels of New England
rum had been lately obtained; and,>having been nearly a year with
out any thing of the kind on the island, it had met with rather a hear
ty reception^ " Nothing will be done," said the ' old gentleman,' as
Mazari-ais respectfully styled, " until it is all gone, and that will be
in a few days."
We were now led through the village, consisting of half a dozen
comfortable huts, each fenced in with vertical posts of cabbage tree,
including a small garden in front. We were conducted to the dwel
ling of Mr. Chapin, and ushered into a square apartment that be
trayed the professional taste of the tenant. On our left stood a ta
ble, covered with newspapers and writing materjals, and over it, upon
the wall, hung a spy-glass, and a thin raanuscript, headed " Laws of
the Bonin Isles." A sea chest stood on each side of the room, and a

THE BONIN ISLES. 445
•bed with calico curtains, filled each corner. A few French prints, and
d shelf of fifty or sixty miscellaneous volumes, occupied rather than
adorned the walls. A chair of home manufacture, and a three-legged
•stool completed the furniture.
A door between the beds communicated with two inner apart
ments, half the size of the first, in which were women engaged in af
fairs of the household. The roof was thatched with fan-palms, and
the walls hung with coarse mats. Such is the general style of the
huts of this new settlement, which is called Clarkston.
Mr. Chapin, barefoot and in shirt and trousers, his face shaded
by a broad hat of sinnate, invited us to be seated; and as he con
versed, with folded arms, walked the floor as if he had been upon a
quarter deck. He was polite and intelligent. He showed us his
corn field, and a saline spring close at hand, and assisted us in pick
ing up some small shells from a fresh water stream. Melons, yams,
sweet potatoes and taro were abundant, and the Indian corn was
flourishing. Araong the vegetable productions of Bonin, are several varieties
of wood well suited to cabinet work; but difficult to get at, from the
almost impenetrable jungle in which they grow. It was said that
camphor and spice trees abounded, but the settlers have not yet met
with either.
Hogs and goats are numerous, and many are running wild in .' the
bush.' Domestic fowls, in spite of feeding and kind treatment have
¦forsaken the village, and subsist wild in the jungle.
When the settlers came to the island they found the house-fly in
great nurabers, and to their surprise, .raore numerous in the.interior
of'the island than upon its coasts. Small lizards, crows, and a
species of ptyropus, called flying fox, were very numerous. The
latter were very troublesome to the products of the gardens. While
here, we got two of the foxes on board; one alive, which in ihe
course of two days became tame and fond 43 f being caressed. It
ate melon and sweet potato, and remained in the cabin suspending
itself by its hind legs. One day it alighted on the stuffed skin of its
mother, when it manifested much sensibility, and clung to it with seem
ing affection. This is the animal, erroneously mentioned in Beechey's
Voyage, as a Vampire bat. It is of a blackish gray color, and has
light chestnut cplored irides; but in other respects does not differ
from that seen in -various parts of India.
On a second visit to Clarkston, we found our, acquaintances on the
¦beach with a number of dogs, which they found of very great use in

446 THE BONIN ISLES.
their hunting of hogs and goats. They had instructed the dogs to
catch fish, and two of them wdl plunge into the water and seize a
shark, one on each side, by the fin, and bring it ashore in spite of re
sistance. One of these dogs had several scars, which he had re
ceived in contests with Wild boars; and on one occasion was so
severely wounded, that his master carried hira home on his back, a
distance of several railes.
I erabarked with a friend in a small canoe, paddled by two
Sandwich Islanders, and, crossing the bay, ran through a natural
tunnel, or rocky cave, open at both ends, which pierces the southern
promontory of the small bay. The passage was perhaps thirty yards
long, and there was just room for the canoe with its wide-spreading
out-rigger to pass. The water within the cave was smooth and of
considerable depth, but so transparent, that various sea-shells and dif
ferent colored marine growths were seen among branching coral at the
bottom. Emerging on the other side we were in the open Pacific.
Next we entered a little bay, wherein a nuraber of porpoises were
sporting gaily in their native eleraent; and tile canoe was paddled
to shore and drawn up on a pr«tty sand beach, which at this point
was not more than ten feet wide, dividing the blue waters of the
ocean frora a stream, which, from its stagnation and greenish color,
might be mistaken for a pool. A canoe loaded' with melons and
pumpkins, floated on its surface; and a Sandwich Islander, asleep in
the shade ofa rock hard by, declared it to lead to some habitation or
cultivated ground. It is emphatically called the river. In a mo
ment our light bark was carried over the sand and launched upon its
peaceful bosom. We again embarked and pursued its windings for
.half a mile. It was perfectly calm and silent, and no animated
thing except ourselves, was abroad. On one side, the rocky bank rose
fierpendicularly three or four hundred feet; on the other, it spread
out into a level plain, a quarter of a mile in extent, covered with
trees and wild brush wood. Presently we espied, on a point stretch
ing into the stream, a little terrier, that stood with ears erect and one
foot raised, regarding us with attention. We had no sooner doubled
the point than we met Mr. Mazarra in a canoe. He had been to his
plantation; but kindly turned about, and we paddled on together for
a quarter of a mile, and landed.
This plantation, where we saw corn, yams, sugar-cane, and taro
(arum esculentum) growing luxuriantly, extends on either side of
the stream to a considerable distance. The soil is rich, and the
hills rise on all sides forming a long narrow valley. After examin-

THE BONIN ISLES. 447
ing the farm, we entered the dwelling of our host, which resembled
the huts at Clarkston, and refreshed ourselves with a fine melon. I
observed here a great number of spiders, and wondered they were
permitted to infest the domicil, till Mazarra said, " We find them
very useful in killing the flies about the house, and are glad to see
them." We returned as we came, and not finding our boat at Clarkston,
spent some time wandering over the rocks, which the tide had now
left, in search of shells.
I have sometiines asked myself, whether our friends who have con-
chological propensities, ever think of the labor and peril often under
gone to obtain the specimens which they desire for their cabinets.
Many a severe illness have I known to result from expeditions of
this sort, the individual being alternately drenched by the sea, and
exposed to the blaze of a tropical sun; and, at the same time, per
haps, snuffing up the morbiferous effluvia from some neighboring
marsh. Then, one's handsare often severely cut and scratched by
efforts to detach the animals from their place of abode.
We found specimens of beautiful limpets, turbo, and the giant
clam {tridacna gygas.) Those of the last genus, nine or ten inches
long, were usually found between rocks, secured by the peduncle or
foot below, and the zig-zag mouth gaping open an inch wide, the
thin membranous portion of the animal, which is of a purple color,
floating over the margin of the shell. When disturbed, the mera-
brane was immediately drawn in, and the shell closed, at the same
time spirting a fine thread of water, ejected as it might be from a
syringe; sometimes air bubbles alone escaped. A half hour's hard
labor was not unfrequently expended to obtain one.
By surprising them, limpets may be easily detached; but if they
ever take fhe alarm atyout* approach, their resistance often foils your
wish to obtain a perfect shell. They are furnished with a thick
fleshy belly, which, on occasion, applies its edges very closely to
the rock, while the centre iS raised so as to produce a vacuum; then,
the weight of the superincumbent atmosphere is sufficient to press
them with great firmness to the spot of location. Chitons offer the
same kind of resistance. I have often watched these latter aniraals,
and observed their movements. Locomotion in them, is effected by
undulating the surrounding fleshy rim, which binds their several
pieces together, and is ranch more rapid than one would suppose. I
have seen them on a smooth rock, drive off every other sort of shell.
Indeed, it would seem that all the marine animals of this character are

448 THE BONIN ISLES.
gregarious. Those of the same class are found in groups, waiting to-
receive the food, that the water may cast in their way, or deposite
around them when it recedes.
By some process, the smooth shells are covered with a slime,
which enhances the brightness of the colors in the young individuals
when recent, which is somewhat diminished after the animal is
killed, and the shell cleaned. In the old shells, the slime attaches
to itself particles of sea-weed, sand; and sometimes small shells of
different species, which give it a coating that in tirae becomes a part
of the shell.
These animals do not labor all for theraselves. The small ones
are destined to become food for the larger; and their habitations
often become homes ofa kind of crab, which manages to remove the
owner and architect, and take possession himself. From this cir
cumstance, sailors call them pirates. They usually select some uni
valve shell that has an inner chamber, in which they accommodate
the soft part of their bodies, leaving their heads and claws outside,
to seize upon their prey and drag their habitations after them. On
this island, there are two species of land helix; but I could not find
a single one alive. The pirates had taken possession of them all.
On a distant part of the island I found, one day, hundreds of pirates,
clothed in almost every species of univalve, feasting on the remains
of a dead turtie. They appeared like people of every nation in their
respective costumes, congregated at a fair. There was one thing
in common; they were all rapacious, and all had red claws. My
approach gave thera alarm, and they hurried away in all directions
to escape. Some little crabs had got into shells disproportionately
large, and waddled off like a boy under a man's hat and coat; while
others had lived so long in their shells as to outgrow them: these
found their houses no impediment to rapid flight. The villains
seemed to possess a sense of right and wrong, and fled, because
they knew they had been guilty of murdering the innocent, to ap
propriate their homes. I could show thera no quarter; though I
presume, they only pursue the instincts of their nature.

SKETCHES

SANDWICH ISLANDS

57

FUNERAL AT SEA. 451

CHAPTER XLII.

SKETCHES IN THE SANDAVICH ISLANDS.
September, 1836.
On Thursday, the twenty-first day of July, at six o'clock, A. M. ,
the littie squadron got under way, and bade farewell to the Bonin
Isles. For the first few days the wind prevailed from the north
ward, and was accompanied by rain.
On the 25th of July, at meridian, (latitude 31° 50' N., longitude
150° 28' E.,) the remains of Mr. J. Dickinson Mendenhall, acting
purser of the Enterprise, were committed to the deep. Mr. Men
denhall, for several years a valetudinarian, was taken ill at Bankok;
but sailed from Macao in a state of convalescence. A few days
afterwards he suffered a relapse, and for the sake of better accom
modation, was received into Captain Stribling's cabin on board of
the Peacock, on the 28th of June, in the China Sea.
A funeral at sea is always impressive: the present was particu
larly so; for we were paying the last tribute to one who had been
generally beloved and respected by the officers of the squadron.
The flags of both vessels were at half raast; the coffin, covered by
a flag, was placed in the lee gang-way; the tolling of the ship's bell
summoned the officers and crew on deck; a solemn silence every
where prevailed, broken now and then by a slight swash of the sea
against the vessel's side. While the service of the church was being
read, the Enterprise, with tolling bell, passed under our stern, and
came close under our lee. Her bell was sdent; the officers and
crew were gazing from deck; one plunge — and the broad blue bosom
of the Pacific Ocean closed over the mortal remains of one much
loved, leaving no trace to mark his grave.
His friends have the consolation of knowing, that his illness was
smoothed by every possible attention; and that his last moments

452 ARRIVE AT OAHU.
were as tranquil as sleep. His exemplary moral life should make
us hope that when the sea shall give up her dead, he will wake in
the mansions of the blest.
Between the latitudes of 32° and 34° north, we saw many large
shoals of flying fish; and now and then a dark-colored albatross, cir
cling and sailing through the air with easy motion, now pausing and
again shooting ahead, as if to show how impossible it was for the
ship to follow in his flight. The weather was cool, and every one
found cloth clothing comfortable, though the thermometer still ranged
above 70° F. The crew, long saddened by scenes of sickness and
death, now resumed its wonted cheerfulness, and again the joyous
song, the dance and merry fife, which from the time of sailing from
Bombay had been silent, were nightly heard upon the forecastie. On
a foggy night (August 3d,) we had parted company with the Enter-
drise, and were now alone; yet, there was ' a little warlike world
within,' which put at defiance the loneliness of the waste of waters.
Carpenters, tinkers, and coopers plied their respective trades, and
all the routine of ship's duty was carried on with more cheerfulness
than it had been for many months.
On Wednesday, the tenth of August, at meridian, we found the
latitude to be 32° 24' north, and the longitude 178° 51' west. We
had passed the 180th degree, and were therefore more than half way
round the world, eastward from Greenwich. In order to raake our
reckoning of time correspond with that between us and it, the fol
lowing day was also reckoned, Wednesday the tenth of August; so
that each of us may exclaim with the noble Roraan, "I have lost a
day." On the morning of the seventh of September, after a tedious and
unpleasant passage of forty-nine days, we descried the island of
Oahu, one of the Sandwich group. As we drew nearer we found it
mountainoiis, rising about four thousand feet above the level of the
sea, barren and forbidding in its aspect. A low coral reef, a mile
distant from the shore, surrounds the island, and a white line of
foaming breakers, on the southern side, every where meets the eye.
About four o'clock P. M. we doubled Diamond point, a hill, for
merly the crater of an active volcano, marked by gullies, which may
have been formed by streams of overflowing lava, and opened the
village of Waititi, four miles from Honolulu. Presentiy a pilot
boarded us, and we learned, that the Enterprise, now in sight, had
arrived the day before. Our expected arrival had been announced
by the schooner Honduras, which, by running as far as forty degrees

HONOLULU. 453
north, had made tiie passage from Canton in forty-five days. About
sunset we anchored in the outer roads.
The harbor of Honolulu is peculiar. A deep cove or bay is formed
between Diamond and Long points; which are fifteen miles apart;
but with the exception of a deep hole or basin, the whole space is
filled by a plain, or reef of coral, which rises to within a few feet
of the surtiice of the water. Between the above named points is
stretched a line of breakers, interrupted by a channel, one hundred
and sixty-seven fathoms wide and four and a half deep, which forms
the entrance to what is termed the inner harbor.
At daylight the next morning, the anchor was weighed and the
ship was towed into the channel. Long track-ropes were carried to
the reef and about two hundred Sandwich islanders, wading knee deep
in the water, upon the field of coral, seized them, and, cheered by
their own song and chorus, drew or tracked the ship to the anchorage
which is close to the shore. The basin is always smooth, being
effectually protected by the coral reef to seaward.
The town, as seen from the ship, presented several comfortable-
looking houses, and in the rear, tiiere is a beautifully green valley
which throws it into strong relief. The belfry of the seaman's chapel
stands conspicuous, and imparts an air of civilization, which one
would scarcely expect to meet at a place so recently emerged from
barbarism. A small white fort stood upon our left, from which our
noisy salutation was returned by an equal number of guns, and on
the left was a fish-pond, formed by a wall of stone one or two feet
above the surface and enclosing a sheet of water, several acres in
extent. An extinct crater, in the rear of the town, familiarly called
the Devil's punch bowl, overlooks the bay, which, by mounting a few
pieces of ordnance around its edge, has been converted into a respec
table fortress.
Honolulu is not only the capital of the island of Oahu, but being
the chief residence of the king, also of the Sandwich Isles, though
Hawaii is the largest and most populous; and with the natives gives
name to the group and to their inhabitants. It is irregularly laid out,
and from the houses being enclosed by fences of 'adobes' — large
blocks of sun-dried clay — and the place being almost entirely without
trees, its aspect is cheerless. Most of the houses are composed ofa
sort of thatch, and, in form, closely resemble ricks of sun- burnt hay.
They are floored with mats, and, internally, have an air of snugness
rather than comfort. The few dwellings occupied by foreigners,
built either of blocks of coral cut near the beach, or of adobes, or

454 THE HAWAIIANS.
wood, are tolerably comfortable; some of tiiem, for elegance and neat
ness, might be compared with well appointed cottages. The popula
tion of the town is estimated at between six and seven thousand, of
which number about two hundred are foreigners, cliiefly Americans
engaged in trade.
The Hawaiians are an imitative people, and as far as their means
allow, ape the costumes of foreigners. Hence life in the streets is
as various as it is grotesque. Here we see a group of men, some
wearing an ancient cloak, consisting of a square piece of native cloth,
either yellow or parti-colored, worn under one arm, generally the right,
and the ends knotted on the opposite shoulder; some place it over,
instead of under the arm, and many of them possessing fine muscular
forms, are perhaps not inaptly compared to the old Romans in their
togas, whom we are taught to admire. Others are entirely naked with
the exception of a garment, termed ' maro,' which, like the ' langote '
of India, is very sraall, being merely a string about the loins, to sup
port a fold of native cloth worn perpendicularly between the limbs.
Others, again, add to this some single cast garment, as a vest, a coat,
pantaloons or shirt; and with either one, esteem theraselves in full
dress. The woraen usually wear a loose slip or gown, and are very
fond of stringing flowers into necklaces or fillets for their heads.
Some even wear supple twigs full of green leaves. Those who have
been improved by the instructions of the missionaries, if they be
chiefs, wear silk dresses and straw bonnets; but instead of encum
bering their feet with shoes or stockings, display well tataiid ankles.
The Hawaiians of the plebeian classes are of moderate stature; but
the chiefs, male and female, are remarkable for their great size and
flabby obesity. Their heads are proportionably small behind the
ears, possibly owing to a custom of sustaining them, while infants,
by resting the back of the head upon the hand, and stroking it up
wards, to secure a flattened occiput, which is considered a mark of
beauty. Their hands and feet, among the females at least, are of
aristocratic sraallness. Their faces are rather flat and broad; the lips
are full, and the nose spread; but it is without the peculiar flatness
which distinguishes this feature in the negro. When in repose, their
countenances are grave, but are easily lighted up by smiles, and are,
on the whole, agreeable. Their complexion is olive, and their gene
ral appearance resembles that of the Siaraese raore than any people
I have seen; and as, with them, the chiefs are very large: one mea
sured six feet four inches high, with a frame developed in excellent
proportion, and was not considered, by the Hawaiians, remarkable for
size.

DRIVES  THE PARI. 455
Though few years have elapsed since the introduction of horses,
which are now numerous on the principal islands of the group, the
Hawaiians have become dexterous horsemen, and have learned to
wield tiie laso with a precision only excelled by the gauchos orBue-
nos Ayres. Both men and women assume the masculine posture
when mounted, and are now seen riding through the streets of Ho
nolulu at all times, more particularly on Saturdays, and always at a
rapid rate. But none, as yet, aspire to drive wheel carriages for
pleasure. The Hawaiians are now a mild race of people, tolerably docile,
and capable of improvement. They are expert at all athletic exer
cises; and, as swimmers, they are unrivalled. Like their monarch,
they are disposed to run to excess in all that engages their attention,
which, however, is not easily roused. The British Consul told me,
that when raarbles were first introduced by him, those in his neigh
borhood did scarcely any thing else than play with them for two or
three months, and the sarae thing happened with kites. That they
are honest, there can be little doubt, for the foreign residents make
very little use of locks and keys. Riding, one day, in the country,
1 lost a glove, which was brought to me three days afterwards, in the
town. They occasionally display humor, and laugh heartily at a
joke. The officers of H. B. M. ship Blond, when here, were anxious
to procure some of the ancient idols, to carry home as curiosities.
The demand soon exhausted the stock on hand: to supply the de
ficiency, the Hawaiins made idols, and smoked them, to impart to
them an appearance of antiquity, and actually succeeded in the de
ception. A boy who had observed this penchant for the curious
among the officers, obtained a chicken's foot, and, having smoked it
well, carried it to the distinguished virtuoso of the ship, saying, as
he worked the toes by pulling at the ends of the tendons, " Wont
you buy this; see how curiously it moves; — you have nothing so
strange as this."
There are several. pleasant rides in the vicinity of Honolulu; Eva,
or Pearl River, a beautiful valley; the Salt Lake; the valley of Manoa,
and the Pari, or Precipice. The latter is the termination of the fine
green valley of Nuanu, the sides of which are almost perpendicular,
and highly picturesque, from a mingling of the pale leaves of the
tutui with the darker foliage of the surrounding vegetation, and oc
casional rills and cascades, which fall several hundred feet. This
valley crosses the island, and terminates abruptly by an almost per
pendicular precipice, several hundred feet high, celebrated in the

456 CLIMATE  SOIL  PRODUCTS.
wars of Tamehameha. From its brink there is a fine view of the fer
tile district of Kolau and the Pacific ocean, chafing itself into foam
on the shore, and thence stretching itself away till its blue bosom
kisses the sky.
Though the elevation, probably, does not exceed four hundred feet,
the climate is very different from that of the plain whereon stands the
capital, and is, therefore, a favorite resort for invalids and valetudi
narians. In the high ground, the air is tempered by almost daily show
ers, and, by the trade wind sweeping freshly, in strong currents, be
tween the hills; while, on the plain, seldom visited by rain, it remains,
pretty constantly, dry and warm. During our stay, the thermome
ter ranged from 70° to 90° F. , though its average yearly range is
stated to be from 70° to 80° F.
The soil is fertile wherever reached by water, and yields yams,
taro, (aruin esculentum,) potatoes, pumpkins, corn, melons, bananas,
grapes, pine-apples, &c. The domestic animals are horses, bullocks,
hogs, goats, dogs, &c. Sheep do not thrive, but the beef is excellent.
Sugar, coffee, cotton, silk, and salt, raay be produced abundantly;
and, in time, will become the great sources of the nation's commer
cial wealth.
There are no reptiles upon the island, nor, indeed, upon any of the
group; except scorpions and centepedes, introduced from the Society
Islands, cockroaches, flies, and mosquitoes,* the insect tribes are
few. Birds are not numerous, and the few found here are not re
markable for their plumage. There is one species, which has one or
two yellow feathers under each wing, which are much prized for
making a sort of tippet, or fillet, for the neck or head.
The waters afford several varieties of excellent fish, and the rocks
are inhabited by many very pretty shells. There are several species
of land shells, and two or three species lately found in the fresh water
streams.t Besides the active trade of the place, and the continuous change
• The facetious editor of the " Sandwich Island Gazette" informs us that
mosquitoes have been recently introduced by a gentleman from New England —
de gustibus, &c.
f I saw, here, a species of spondylus, nine or ten inches long, and five or six
broad, having a semicircular cavity, or chamber, in the lower valve, capable of
holding one or two table-spoonfuls, containing water, said to be fresh, which may
be seen flowing beneath the transparent nacreous lining. The whalers, by
whom the specimens are brought here from the Society Islands, call it the
" shoe shell."

EVIDENCES OF CIVILIZATION. 457
of costume, there are other evidences to the transient visiter, that the
people are emerging from barbarism, and advancing towards a state
of civilization. A weekly newspaper, entitled the " Sandwich Island
Gazette and Journal of Comraerce," in English, was begun on the
30th of July, 1836. An atterapt was raade to suppress this paper in
its infancy, by Kinau, the Governess of Oahu. She put her veto upon
its publication, and shut up the printing office. The editor applied
to the king, then on a visit to one of the windward islands, for his
authority to publish it, and received a note from His Hawaiian Ma
jesty, of which the following translation appears in the Sandwich
Island Gazette.
"To Stephen D. Mackintosh. Honolulu, Oahu.
I assent to the letter which you sent me. It affords me pleasure
to see the works of other lands, and things that are new. If I was
there, I should very much desire to see. I have said to Kinau, make
printing presses. My thought is ended. Love to you and Rey
nolds. By King Kauikeaouli.
There is another in the native language, entitled, " Ke Kumu Ha
waii," which will be referred to in the sequel.
There are three practitioners of medicine, one English, and tvvo
American, residing here; there is a seamen's chapel and a reading
room, as yet almost without readers; to which may be added, as addi
tional evidence of the inarch of civilization, billiard tables, bowling
allies, grog shops, livery stables, and restaurans, both foreign and
native, and they all meet with a sufficient patronage, because the
vices are more aptly acquired than the virtues of civilized, life.
The grog shops are licensed, but it is to be regretted that they have
not been suppressed in compliance with petitions signed by eighteen
masters of whale ships, and two thousand eight hundred native chiefs.
These shops are the bane of his subjects as well as of the foreign sea
men coming to the islands; the king would be consulting his own in
terest and the welfare of his people, by inhibiting the sale of spiritu
ous liquors at retail. Many whale ships, rather than incur the risk
of difficulties arising from this source, have ceased to visit the port,
and now resort to other places for the purpose of refreshing their
crews, and the king thus loses an amount of revenue equal to the
port charges, &c., of all these vessels.
On several occasions I passed a Hawaiian restaurant's — a straw
hovel in which were assembled numerous guests, enjoying themselves
58

458 eating raw fish — billiards.
after the fashion they admire most, while as many, in the various cos
tumes described above, were gazing wistfully in upon thera from the
outside. The earth floor was covered by mats. Groups of more
than half naked men, squatted in a circle with gourd plates before
them, supplied with raw fish and salt water, and by their side an
enormous gourd, of the dimensions of a wash tub, filled with poe, a
sort of paste made of taro. They ate of the raw fish, occasionally
sopping the torn animal in the salt water as a sauce, then sucking it,
with that peculiar smack which indicates the reception of a delicious
morsel. Next the fore and middle fingers were dipped up to the
knuckles in the tub of poe, and by a dexterous twirl made to con
vey the food to the mouth. At the proper moment the head is thrown
back, and the mouth is opened to receive the fingers, which are now
sucked clean of their load. Alternating one or two mouthfulls of
raw fish with as raany of poe, they thus feed until satisfied, for which
they pay six and a quarter cents. This charge includes the feeding
of the children and dogs of the guest, which must be a considerable
drawback upon the profits, if we may judge from the number of chil
dren and lank curs mingled among the groups.
Of this revolting feast, in which the face and hands are pretty well
smeared, we were invited by a smile and a gesture to partake. Though
I had, before witnessing this scene, argued with myself, that eating
raw fish was not a more violent practice, than eating raw oysters, the
invitation caused me to turn away in disgust. The sight was nau
seating. It may do in theory, but in practice the stranger vrill find
such feeding out of the question.
At night the billiard tables are resorted to by foreigners and na
tives. At one or the other, one is sure to meet His Hawaiian Ma
jesty King Kauikeaouli, attended by some of his high chiefs. He has
recently come out of his minority, a stoutly limbed young man five
feet seven or eight inches high. His face is fiat and broad, and his
countenance mild. He is fond of athletic exercises; plays skilfully
both at billiards and bowls; rides well, hunts well, and readily joins
his lowest subjects in the severest toils. Not long ago a ship was
cast away near Diamond point, and the king, in a tarpaulin and sai
lor's shirt and trousers, assisted actively in saving the cargo. He is
of a cold temperament and not easily excited; but whatever he un
dertakes, he executes with enthusiasm. He is fond of ships, and de
lights in navigating among the several islands of his dominions.
I had the honor of an introduction to His Majesty on the night of
our arrival. We found hira bowling for a bottle of wine with seve-

KING KAUIKEAOULI AND HIS COURT. 459
rai chiefs. He was dressed in white drilling pantaloons, without sus
penders, and a white jacket, wearing a neatly plaited parti-colored
straw hat, set knowingly on one side of his head. To measure him
by the social code of refined life, his manner of receiving us was
frank and unassuming, while it partook something of mauvaise honte.
He speaks English intelligibly, but prefers his own language, and it
is difficult to get him to talk in any other in the presence of more than
one or two persons. After the usual salutation, he seized a ball in
his left hand and resumed his game with great energy. He wants
dignity. The commonest skippers that visit the port, familiarly ad
dress him by his name, Kauikeaouli, and do not hesitate even to put
their arms about his neck, which he very good-naturedly submits to,
without thinking that it derogates any thing from royalty. I saw hira
thus solicited to give up bowls for a game of pool, and he led the way
to the billiard room, where he was playing when the clock struck
eleven. He threw down his cue at once, though in the middle of the
game, and the lights were extinguished in obedience to a curfew law
made by himself, to restrain dissipation of this sort.
On the tenth of September, we saw His Majesty under different
circumstances. Commodore Kennedy, with many of the officers of
the Peacock and Enterprise, paid him an official visit. We were re
ceived in a stone or rather coral house, by a chief in a blue military
frock coat, who led us to the second story and introduced us into a
plainly furnished room. Here we found the king, his sister Naihea-
naina, and his two half-sisters, Kinau the governess of Oahu, and
Auhea, comraonly spoken of by her cognomen, the big-mouthed queen.
The king wore a blue coat vyith two gold epaulets, white pantaloons
and vest; and the ladies were in black silk. They received us stand
ing, but in a few minutes seated themselves on a sofa, in front of
which stood the Rev. Mr. Bingham as interpreter. A common-place
conversation occurred, and a glass of wine was offered.
These feminine chiefs, all of them of Herculean form, had an air
which may be styled shabby-genteel, evincing at the same time a de
sire to comport theraselves as became their station; and, considering
their opportunities, succeeded remarkably well. At the expiration of
twenty minutes we took leave, followed by a number of foreign re
sidents, who had accompanied us.
Kauikeaouli is a son of the famous Tamehameha, and brother of
the late King Riho'riho. He is genteelly dissipated, but not vicious.
Though capable of reading both English and Spanish, his general

460 THE PRINCESS NAIHEANAINA
knowledge is very limited; his reading, like that of most of his sub
jects, being merely a mechanical operation. He has probably read
very little besides his school books. He was educated under the sur
veillance of the missionaries, but at the sarae time influenced by the
advice and example of evil-minded strangers, who delighted to thwart
the efforts of his pious tutors; and we must not therefore be surprised,
that he is not so well educated as he might have been under different
circumstances. A few days after this interview, the Princess Naiheanaina, gave
birth to a son, and, in consequence of imprudently indulging in a
cold bath, became dangerously ill, and her medical attendant, Mr.
Rook, desired me to see her vrith him. The child lived but a few
hours. The public expressed a doubt whether her husband, or her
brother, the king, were the father; but in either case the child would
have been heir to the throne. It must be borne in mind, that very
few years have elapsed since incestuous connexions araong the nobles
were not considered criminal, because they were common, and even
legal; and that Kauikeaouli and Nainheanaina were affianced when
young, according to the ancient custom of the nation.
On reaching the gate of the enclosure in which stood the dwelling
of the princess, we were obliged to wait until announced, before the
sentry would open it. The house, which was a very large one, had
several small ones in the vicinity for the accoraraodation of her house
hold. Beneath a thatched shed at one side of it, were lounging twenty
or thirty men and women on newly cut grass. One of these came
forward and took our horses. We entered a large apartment, the
floor of which was covered with mats, and the thatched roof was
lined with the same. The posts and rafters were bare, showing the
sinnate lashings which held them together. Two female chiefs were
seated near a small table covered with red cloth, in the middle of the
room, listlessly fanning themselves and smoking short pipes. Small
gourds, with a few blades of fresh grass iu the bottom of each, were
on the table, and used as spittoons.
The king, attired in a short blue military jacket, white pantaloons,
and cloth cap of naval pattern, received us, and at once led the way
to the apartment of his sister. It was separated frora the other by a
chintz screen. We found the princess lying upon a soft mattress,
which rested on a pile of fine mats, eighteen inches high, and about
twelve feet square. A quantity of white tapa-cloth, covered her royal
person. Around her were reclining several females gently fanning

AND HER PALACE. 461
her with kahiris*, assisted by her husband, the young chief Lelehoku,
a son of Karaimoku, celebrated as the Wra. Pitt of Hawaii. Seve
ral fat chiefs, weighing not less than eighteen stone each, in shirt and
pantaloons, were stretched upon the floor, solacing theraselves either
with pipes or poe. The countenances of Kauikeaouli and Lelehoku
betokened a tender solicitude for the princess who was suffering
pain. On a second visit a few days afterwards, we found a change in the
decoration of the apartment. Green boughs were suspended from
the ceiling to within three or four feet of the bed, and a pink satin
counterpane, bordered with black velvet, hung by a cord from its
centre so as to fall over the bed in loose folds, somewhat like a tent.
The chamber was fragrant with the fresh limbs and flowers; and, al
together, might be compared to a grateful shade beneath some wide
branching tree.
After expressing our opinion of the case, various subjects were
talked of, and amongst them that of phrenology. The king, who had
been told of the unwillingness of the Siamese princes to perrait any
one to lay hands upon their heads, said that a sirailar custora had pre
vailed in the Sandvrich islands; and the prejudice was so strong that
the roof of a house in which a king resided never could be repaired
in case of necessity, because the workraen would be obliged to mount
above the king's head. If the roof leaked, the house was deserted,
or torn down and built anew upon another site.
One of the big chiefs offered rae, in a spoon, some hoe — a paste pre
pared from yams, in the same manner as poe from the taro — which he
took from a small calabash, into which he had been dipping his fingers.
On tasting it, I remarked that it wanted salt. He then presented a
saucer of tutui nut mingled with salt, which, added to the hoe, ren
dered it more palatable. I told him it was very good. " Ah," said he,
smiling, " if you were to reside with us for a time, you would become
civilized, and learn to appreciate what is good."
On taking leave, the princess declared that our visit had been of
much service, because our conversation had served to divert her

* The kahiri is a slight staff about three feet long, having feathers, black, yel
low, or red, attached to it for about two-thirds of its length, while the other is
covered by numerous rings of polished tortoise shell, so neatly joined as to ap
pear a solid casing. The handle is of ivory, (whale's tooth,) and highly polished.
Kahiris were much used as badges of office; and for that purpose made of large
size, and borne in procession before the chiefs upon occasions of ceremony.

462 THE LUAU.
thoughts from her uncomfortable situation. Before our departure,
on both occasions, wine was offered at a table in the apartment.*
The king accompanied us to the door, and cordially invited us to
call whenever we could make it convenient. As we passed, we had
leisure to observe the sentry at the gate, and seldom have we seen so
perfect a personification of laziness. His musket stood against the
wall on one side of the gate, while he rested his person against it on
the other, with folded arms and half-closed eyes. This warrior was
completely attired in a white shirt and a straw helmet, the rest of
the Windsor uniform, in which the king's troops were wont to parade,
according to Mr. Stewart, having yielded to the devouring effects of
time; or, perhaps, they were in reserve for gala occasions.
An opportunity of seeing and tasting food a la Hawaii was afforded
us on the 20th of September, by an invitation to a Luau, or feast,
prepared by native cooks, given by the foreign residents to Commo
dore Kennedy and the officers of the squadron. At three o'clock
P. M. I found the company assembled, at Makiki, about a mile from
Honolulu, in front of a large house of dry thatch, a la Oahu. Fresh
cut grass was strewed about where the guests were promenading
away the "interminable half hour before dinner." A little beyond
were the horses of the company, held by their servants, araongwhich
were mingled numbers of .idle spectators. In a few moments after
my arrival dinner was announced, and we penetrated the hay-stack-
shaped edifice. Two long tables, loaded with various viands, stretched
along its whole length on each side. The floor was of mats, and the
walls and beams and posts were garlanded and bedecked with green
boughs and flowers. The British consul, assisted by the American
acting vice consul, presided. The nuraber of guests, including the
* I am informed by Mr. J. K. TownSend, recently returned from the islands,
that the Princess fell a victim to her own imprudence in a similar illness, on the
5th of January, 1837. The Hawaiians recognise two deaths; one of the mind or
soul, and the other of the body; therefore, the tomb of Naiheanaina informs us
that her death took place on the SOth of December, 1836, the day upon which
she became delirious. On this occasion, the multitude, in token of their sorrow,
knocked out their own front teeth; some only one, some more, in accordance
with the ancient manners of the island. The operation is performed by driving
a wooden wedge between tlie front teeth with a stone, while the patient lies
stretched upon the ground.
Mr. Townsend intends to give the public the notes of his travels and adven
tures across the Rocky Mountains, in California, the Society and Sandwich islands,
&c.

FATTENING FISH  DOG-EATING. 463
king, several of his chiefs, many of the most respectable foreign
residents, and a Tora-Dick-and-Harry company, might have been
seventy-five, all shuffled together at the tables, without observing the
least cereraony in regard to rank or place.
The tables and benches were built up for the occasion on the spot,
and by sorae oversight the benches were so weak that several of the
guests were nearly overturned. Both were covered with fine white
tapa cloth — made by beating the macerated bark of a mulberry
tree — and in a/eie champetre answered very well the place of a more
costly material.
The feast consisted of dogs, poultry, pigs, &c., luaued; that is,
after being carefully wrapped in leaves of the ti plant, cooked by
being buried amidst stones heated for the purpose. They were then
served up with boiled taro tops, which are a good substitute for spi-
nache. Meats cooked after this manner, have a slight taste of the
ti plant, and are very savory. This mode of cooking fish — the mul
let particularly, is preferable to any other that I have seen. The
Hawaiians take great pains to have fine fish. They take them when
small, and convey them frofti the sea to a pond of salt water, where
they ai-e fed for several months; thence they are carried into brackish
water, and finally introduced into fresh ponds, where they are care
fully tended.
Near my place at table was a fine young dog luaued, the flesh of
which was declared to be excellent by all who partook of it. To my
palate, its taste was what I can imagine would result from mingling
the flavor of pig and lamb, and I did not hesitate to make my dinner
of it, in spite of sorae qualras at the first mouthful. I must confess,
when I reflected, the puppy now trussed up before us might have
been the affectionate, and frolicksome corapanion of some Hawaiian
fair — they all have pet pigs or puppies — I felt as if dog-eating were
only a low grade of cannibalism. What! eat Poor Ponto f —
"  the poor dog, in life the firmest fiiend.

The first to welcome, foremost to defend.
Whose honest heart is still his master's own.
Who labors, fights, hves, breathes for hira alone,
TJnhonored falls, unnoticed aU his worth.
Denied in heaven the soul he held on earth — "
However, the edible dog is not one of your common curs, but a dainty
animal, fed exclusively on .vegetables, chiefly taro in the form of ppe,
and at the the age of two years, is considered a dish wherewith to

464

MISSIONARIES.

regale royalty. Indeed, Kauikeaouli, I suspect, would be always well
satisfied to see it before hira, in spite of the assertion of Dr. Kidd, that
" it is worthy of consideration that the flesh of those aniraals whose
living services we stand hourly in need, as the horse and the dog, are
so unpalatable that we are not tempted to eat them unless in cases of
dreadful necessity."* Has the doctor ever assisted at a luaii, or as
sociated with the trappers upon the prairies of the ' far west?'
The feast won through its phases; toasts and healths were drunk,
and about eight o'clock P. M., the field was left in possession of some
of my Tora-Dick-and-Harry platter companions, who had gradually
imbibed an unusual degree of self-esteem, and were now kicking up
their heels to the notes of a gigging fiddle and a crack-voiced clario
net, like so many "jolly tars capering ashore.''
We were complimented by this mark of attention from the resi
dents, many of whom must have done violence to their own feelings
in being present.

CHAPTER XLIII.
SKETCHES IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
October, 1836.
Since the arrival of the missionaries in 1820, and the publication
of " Stewart's Residence," the Hawaiian Islands have attracted a
large share of public attention. Various accounts have been given
to the world, but they have all bfeen ex parte statements. The
friends of the missionaries have drawn overwrought pictures of the
prosperity and prospects of the islands; while, on the other hand,
their opponents charge them with the tardy advancement of the
• " On the Adaptation of external Nature to the Physical Condition of Man."
Bridgewater Treatise.

missionaries. 465
islanders in social and civil knowledge. Both parties have based their
reports on partial facts, and colored thera to suit their own views,
without that sti-ict observance of full accuracy which is desirable.
In 1831, a former missionary, Mr. Stewart, published an account
of a visit to the islands by the U. S. ship Vincennes, which seems to
be rather a work of the imagination than a faithful description. All
who are acquainted with the author fully acquit him of any intention
to deceive, and attribute the unfaithful, though agreeable picture,
which his work leaves upon the mind of the reader, to a happy fa
cility of writing and perceiving beauties in common place things, for
which he is distinguished. Though v/e are all ready to accord our
praise to the pleasing fictions of a novelist, we expect rigid accuracy
from the pen of the divine, and are not disposed to allow him to en
velop facts in the glowing language of a poetic fancy. Mr. Stewart
talks of fashionable drives; of Windsor uniforms; of the advance of
civilization, of the successful efforts of the missionaries, and defends
his friend, Mr, Bingham, from an attack made upon hira by Captain
Kotzebue, in his " New Voyage round the world." The missiona
ries are now sensibly feeling the injurious effects of the ov-erpraise of
this pleasant work. The "Visit to the South Seas" was followed
by the " Cruise of the Potomac, by J. N. Reynolds,^' which is charged
with various trifling inaccuracies of description, and sweeping cen
sure of the missionaries, as well as of the foreign residents of Hono
lulu. Mr. Warriner's account of the same cruise has passed almost
unnoticed. •
Whether I shall be successful in conveying a clear and correct
idea to the reader of the state of these islands I cannot decide; but
I feel an honesty of purpose rn making the attempt, and will not de
sist in the middle of the operation in pity for the cries of the patient.
The pain necessarily inflicted, in bringing to light the latent disease
of the system, is often requisite to its removal, without which we can
not hope to secure a robust and flourishing state of health.
From the time of their arrival, the missionaries have pursued one
course and one policy, the propriety and expediency of which have
been much questioned. Their plan was to impart to the islanders a
knowledge of the doctrines of their own sect, which the islanders
were, in a measure, prepared to receive, because they had, of them
selves, thrown down the gods, and abandoned tiie religion of their
fathers in 1819. With this view primary schools were established,
at which adults and children, of every age and sex, almost constantly
attended. They were taught to write, to sing religious songs, and
59

466

MISSIONARIES.

read tracts and portions of scripture as fast as translated. The num
ber of the schools rapidly increased, and children were more attended
to; and within about two years a high school has been established,
from which I have seen an atlas, engraved on copper, of a very re-
;Spectable character. During the first ten years of the mission, reli
gious instruction alone was given; but since, arithmetic, geography,
and some other branches have been added to the studies. Not less
than one-fifth of the time is now occupied in the study and practice
of "sacred harmony." Indeed, the whole system of instruction is
so entirely religious in its nature, and so entirely appropriated to the
performance of Calvinistic worship, that, thus far, it has proved of
less social advantage to the nation than might have been expected.
To the missionaries is due the credit of reducing the language to
writing, and of translating both the Old and New Testaments, tv/enty
thousand copies of which are now in circulation, making one copy
for every five individuals of the population. A gazette, neatly printed
at the mission press, is published, under the title of " Ke Kumu
Hawaii, — the Monitor or Teacher. Four thousand copies are cir
culated, each receiver paying something, though there is no stated
subscription price. Its pages are filled with extracts from the scrip
tures, scraps of natural history, &c., well calculated to interest those
for whom it is intended.
The following report of schools in 1835, is found in one of the num
bers.

H

ONOLULU, 1.83.5,

Teachers,

45

f Adult male,
^ , " female,
J?'"' Male children,
l^Female do.

194

404

55
27
Number of readers.
680
" Arithmetic,
448
" Writing,
405
" Primer,
258
680
Total number of pupils, 680
At present the mission consists of fifty-eight individuals, exclu
sive of children. The missionaries are placed in a position entirely
above the every-day concerns of the world, and have only to declare
MISSIONARIES. 467
their wants to a fiscal agent of the Board of Missions to have them
supplied. In this respect they are entirely independent, and could
not be more so, had they fortunes at command. This arrangement is
defective, because it abstracts thera too much from the world. Would
it not be more politic to pay them stated salaries, and thus impose
upon them the care of providing for theraselves? The expense of
the mission raight be thus increased, but its object would be better
answered; because the missionaries, by dealing with the world, would
feel more sensibly the interests of the social community in which
they are placed, and meet with frequent opportunities of correcting
evils which must now pass unnoticed. I would not give them sala
ries so large that the business of a missionary should become a pro
fitable profession; but their stipend should be sufficient to enable
them to possess a small surplus at the end of the year, to be appro
priated to the education of their children, instead of turning them,
in infancy almost, as must often be the case under the present sys
tem, beggars upon the world, dependent upon its charities. No man
would willingly place his children in such a predicament. And it
is too ranch to ask any raan to do, for his raere daily bread, and the
prospective benefit of yet unborn savages. Those who know the ar
duous life of the missionary, the perils to which he is often exposed,
subjected frequently to scornful vituperation and misrepresentation,
will not deny him a trifling reward, which may enable him to fulfil
his duty towards his little ones. It should not be put upon the mis
sionary to gratify the ambition of outdoing each other in sustaining
privations; rather let him feel gratified with displaying the greatest
comfort, or even luxury, if you will, with the most moderate means,
and thus become an example to the society wherein he is " the ob
served of all observers," teaching one of the social advantages of the
reli°-ion he labors to inculcate. " Cosa Apostolica es misionar,"
says one of the fathers of the Roman church; — " Cosa Apostolica es
misionar, recibiendo el sustento mendigando; raas tarabien lo es rai-
sionar, proveyendose a si, y a Ios suyos con el trabajo de sus proprias
manos, sin mendigar."*
Under the present system, frora conscientious motives, raany mis
sionaries, particularly valetudinarian females, live in want of articles
* " To serve as a missionary, depending upoh alms for sustenance is an apos
tolic thing! but it is likewise an apostolic thing for one to serve as a missionary,'
providing for himself and those depending , upon him by the labor of his own
hands, without begging alms. El Padre Miguei. Yesebas."

468 MISSIONARIES.
absolutely necessary to their comfort, rather than apply for them.
The houses of these people present only those appliances, which are
eommon in the houses of the industrious day laborer; and in raany
instances their food is of the poorest kind.
The missionaries inhibit their children from acquiring the Haw
aiian language, because, it is asserted, they Can acqtiire no useful
ideas frora the natives, while they would be exposed to the injurious ef
fects of constantly hearing grossness of expression. As yet I have
heard of no raissionary^s children acting as assistant teachers in the
schools. At an early age they are sent to the United States for
education; but none have ever returned.
The labors of the missionaries consist exclusively in preaching the
gospel, and teaching schools'. They are distributed at fifteen sta
tions, as follows: three on the island of Kauai; four on Oahu; one on
Molokai; three on Maui, and four on Hawaii; The mission consists
at present of twenty-eight men, and thirty women from the United
States. Their maintenance is estimated at five hundred dollars an
nually for each family, or $15,000 in the aggregate. Besides this,
the buildings, the printing, medical and school departments, cost an
additional sura of about $16,000. To this may be added about
$4,000 annually, for the support of the high school at Lahainaluna:
so that the entire annual expense of the Sandwich Island mission
will not be less than $35,000.
At the head of the schools is that at Lahainaluna, of which a very
graphic description, by its principal, the Rev. Lorrin Andrews, may
be found in the appendix of the "Twenty-sixth Annual Report of
the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions." (Bos
ton, 1835.) Mr. Andrews appears to be a man Of unquestionable
and untiring benevolence, and possessed of practical good sense. He
has discovered that, in general, the art of reading and writing was
among the islanders merely mechanical, and that they have not
yet learned to look upon it, only as a means of acquiring knowledge.
He has recognised the great principle, that men must doubt and
think for themselves before they can become learned; and acts upon
it, as may be seen in the report above referred to.
This high school was first formed under a shed, and afterwards
taught by Mr. Andrews beneath the canopy of heaven, unsheltered
from the blazing rays of a tropical stin for some time, while the school
house was yet incomplete. It was begun in 1831, but the foundation
of the school was not securely laid before 1834.
The high school of Lahainaluna is on the island of Maui, and con-

MISSIONARIES. 469
tained, in 1835, one hundred and twenty-three pupils. There are
three missionaries employed as teachers, one as a printer to the esta
blishment, besides an artisan, (not a missionary,) who receives a
salary as Superintendent of the manual labor department. Free in
quiry is encouraged among tiie pupils. The branches of education
at present attended to, are arithmetic, raental and written, geometry,
trigonometry, modern and ancient geography, Scripture chronology,
and church history. Some of the pupils attend to composition,
grammar, engraving on copper, and other useful arts.
At the station schools taught by the ladies and gentlemen of the
mission, there are two thousand one hundred and thirty-five pupils;
of which number, five hundred and thirty-five, more than one-fourth,
are adults. They receive instruction in the first principles of mo
rality and religion, reading, writing, arithmetic, geography, natural
history and psalmody. For those who are learning to sing, a small
work of three hundred and sixty pages, containing a gamut, hymns
and tunes, has been recently published.
The missionaries instruct six thousand eight hundred and forty
Sabbath school pupils. In these. Scripture history, and Christian
doctrines and duties ate carefully inculcated, and in a more familiar
manner than can be done by ordinary preaching. Most of the mis
sionaries attend individually to three schools, and some of them meet
bible classes on a week day.
In every district of the Sandwich Islands, both adults and minors,
in great nurabers, receive instruction by the aid of native teachers,
in reading, writing, and the first principles of religion, as expressed
in catechisms, tracts, &c. Mr. Bingham, to whom I am indebted
for raost of ray inforrrlation in relation to the mission, tells me, that
the adults do not probably spend more than four hours a week under
the eye of their teachers. Those of the native teachers, who are
diligent and faithful, receive a trifling compensation from the mis
sion; but their support is mainly derived from the chiefs or head
men. The adults, generally, who attend school, are not expected to do
less in their respective avocations on this account. The primary
object of the adult schools taught by natives, is to render the mis
sionary publications, particularly the Scriptures, available to thera,
by iraparting to them the art of reading. Mr. Bingham estimates,
that twenty to twenty-five thousand, or about one-fifth of the whole
population, give some attention to schools.
Where missionaries preach, an aggregate number of from fifteen

470

MISSIONARIES.

to twenty thousand Hawaiians attend regularly. The largest con
gregation is at Honolulu, where the average attendance is about two
thousand. Since 1825, the number admitted into the church, is one
thousand and seventy-eight; of which two hundred and sixty-six be
long to Honolulu.
As collateral with the instruction coramunicated by the above
system, the missionaries have endeavored to encourage the people in
acquiring some of the mechanic arts; as those of the carpenter,
mason, turner, tailor, braider of hats, &c. A few have been taught
to spin, knit, and weave.
The printing establishment of the mission is well conducted. The
whole business of printing, composing, pressing, folding, binding, i9
performed by natives. The number generally employed is thirty.
The nature and extent of their publications may be found in the
twenty-sixth annual report already referred to. The mechanical
execution of those works which I saw here, is equal to what is termed
" common work," in the United States.
There is also at Honolulu, a charity school for the instruction of
half-caste children, supported by donations from foreign residents.
I visited it, and one of the mission schools; and I am sorry to say I
was disappointed, not that there was any unusual deficiency on the
part of the teachers or pupils; but, because I had formed an over es
timate of them from reading various reports of their condition.
They are probably equal to the commonest primary schools in the
United States.
I have thought these details will be interesting to those tienevolent in
dividuals in our country, who contribute $35,000 annually, for the pur
pose of diffusing general and christian knowledge to the inhabitants of
the Sandwich lslands,and perhaps all maybe satisfied, that every effort
is made to disburse this money in the most advantageous manner for
attaining the objects of the missionary society and its friends. But,
with proper deference to older and wiser heads, I believe a strict in
vestigation would show, that the same means might be raade to achieve
greater ends — I raean in temporal affairs; for the government of the
islands is, in all respects, the same that it was the day on which the
missionaries landed.
Exclusive of Roman Catholics, Quakers, and Jews, the number of
religious ministers or preachers in the United States, is stated, in a
volume entitled " Protestant Jesuitism," at 12,670 of various sects.
Let us estimate the ministers of all denominations at 14,000, in the
United States, and the population at 14,000,000, and we have one

EXPULSION OF THE OATHOLIOS. 471
teacher of religion for every fourteen thousand of our population;
while in the Sandwich Islands, there are twenty-eight preachers, in
a population of 108,393, or one to each number of 3,871 individuals,
including infants. Yet the missionaries have made requisition for 13
more, besides 21 lay teachers, and two physicians; which, on the most
moderate estimate, will add ten thousand dollars to the annual expense.
If forty of these .sixty-four teachers of religious doctrine and elemen
tary education were skilful mechanics, and agriculturists, possessed
of good hard sense, a moderate capital and the generous benevolence
of the missionary, they would do more in ten years, towards araeric-
rating the condition of the islanders, by teaching their several arts,
by their moral deportment, and the example of the thrift which must
crown their industry, than an array of twenty thousand preachers,
devoted exclusively to religious pursuits, could possibly effect in dou
ble the tirae. It is questionable whether the doctrine of Christianity
alone is capable of leading a barbarous people to a condition which
we might call civilization. The Hawaiians, as a nation, may be said
to be christianized, but those who have visited the islands will hardly
assert they are also civilized; and I doubt whether they ever will be
under the present system. The rapidity of their civilization depends
upon their improvement, in agriculture, the mechanic arts, and in po
litical government, which will furnish in abundance the sources of
commerce, the great civilizer of mankind; and when religion is added
to chasten all, the condition of the people will be such as to enable
them to enjoy the greatest possible happiness in this world, while it
promises no less in that which is to come.
Those who are interested in the Sandwich Island mission, have
heard, that sorae Roman Catholic christians attempted to establish a
mission of their sect at the islands, and were expelled, as has been
asserted, by the advice of those missionaries already there, which
charge they pronounce to be untrue. I would let this question sleep,
did I not feel that the public, and the friends of foreign missions who
pay for their support, have a right to know the history of the matter,
drawn from the raost authentic sources on the spot.
Three missionaries, Mr. Batchelot, frora France, Mr. Short, from
Ireland, and Mr. Murphy, frora the Isle of France, arrived at Oahu,
with the purpose of establishing a Roman Catholic mission; and while
they remained, they labored to this end, and gained numerous follow
ers. The .chiefs observed, their forms of worship differed from those
of the Calvinistic christians already settled there, and applied to them
to know who were of the true religion. As a matter of course, they

472 EXPULSION OF THE CATHOLICS.
were informed the Calvinists were the true worshippers. " Then," said
the chiefs, " these ney comers must go away, because we do not want
two religions, and we are satisfied with our old teachers." "About
Ihis time," says a leading member of the mission, in a letter to me,
replying to several questions in relation to the mission, "About this
time the people were reminded of the sanguinary character of the
power that had attempted to exterminate protestants by the bayonet,
the inquisition and fire," and it was thus insinuated, that the course
of the Roraan Catholics, should they remain, would be likely to be
marked by blood. But applications of this nature were made by " se
veral English gentlemen;" whether these were interested in the protes-
tant mission is not stated. " A few historical facts, such as are al
luded to in a letter, addressed by Dr. Jones King, of Greece, to his
friends in Palestine, as reasons why he could not be a Roman Ca
tholic, were not very favorable recommendations of the true sons of
Rome, as propagators of the benevolent and pacific gospel of grace."
This letter, which, to use the expression of one of the mission, ar
rived at Oahu, 'just in the nick of time,' was speedily translated,
printed and circulated amongst the chiefs and people.
Under the excitement, thus produced, upon their fallow rainds, the
chiefs imperatively ordered the Roman Catholics to leave the islands.
They replied, that they were ready to go, but the means of departure
v/ere not at hand. Under these circumstances, the chiefs fitted out
a vessel, put the three obnoxious missionaries on board, and ordered
the commander to land thera at the nearest Roman Catholic port.
This was San Pedro, on the coast of California, a raiserable waste of
sand, many leagues distant from any considerable population. During
the voyage, they were so well treated by the captain, that they pre
ferred no complaint against him.
Several of their converts were seized and imprisoned in the fort,
" not for opinion's sake, but because when ordered to cease worship
ping according to the precepts of the Roman church, they refused to
obey, and were therefore punished for insubordination and disrespect
to their chiefs." Such was the explanation offered, when the pro-
testant missionaries declared, that it was improper to punish or per
secute men on account of the religious opinion they might entertain.
The above is the substance of the history of the expulsion of the
Roraan Catholic raissionaries. Were the protestants instrumental
in their expulsion? The missionaries positively declare, that they
never advised it directly, or had any direct agency in it. But
a leading member of the mission told rae, he had no doubt, but

EXPULSION OF THE CATHOLICS. 473
the answers which he gave to questions on the subject by the chiefs,
had very considerable influence upon their determination. From all
the information I was able to collect upon this subject, it is clear to
my mind, that the missionaries embraced every opportunity to state
the cruelties of the religious wars of by-gone days, and present the
Roman Catholics in the hideous aspect in which they themselves view
tliem, and, carefully abstaining from a declaration of what must have
been their secret wishes, pursued the laisser aller system of policy,
which finally resulted in the expulsion of the catholics.
The protestants, not only those connected with this mission nearly
or remotely, but also niany in the United States, and Europe, regard
all those of the Roraan faith with feelings of reproach, or, at best,
with a sort of contemptuous pity. On one occasion at Oahu, hearing
a lady express herself of the catholics, in terms of horror, I asked,
" How do you know, madam, that you are not speaking in the pre
sence ofa Roman Catholic?"
" Oh ! I am sure, I am not; for no sensible man can be a Roman
Catholic?" In addition to this instance of prejudice, I beg to quote the follow
ing passages from the letter already referred to.
" They (the Catholics) were regarded by the people as French wor
shippers of images, and servants of the Pope of Rome, and not pro
pagators of the true gospel." Whence did the islanders, who derive
their religious information entirely from the missionaries, obtain such
a notion, if not from their protestant teachers? Whence could they
learn any thing of France or Frenchmen, of Rome, of her Pontiff,
places and people, they never before had occasion to hear of, except
from the same source?
" We could not condemn the rulers for exercising a natural and
just right, in excluding unwelcome strangers, where they had reason
to suspect their pursuits would prove a national calamity. Nor could
we honestly recommend the introduction of Romanisra, or any other
•system which authorizes and requires punishment to be inflicted by
the civil power on subjects for any religious opinions they raay hold,
and which those in power claim the right to pronounce heresy."
I should be glad to be informed where such a system exists. Do
the Romanists in France, in Great Britain, in Spain, or Mexico, or in
any one of the Roman Catholic countries of South America, " autho
rize and require " of their " respective governments," punishment
to be inflicted by the civil power on the subjects for any religious
opinions they may hold?"
60

474

MISSIONARIES.

" We cannot, of course, invite or welcome any who teach intole
rance and persecution as a sine qua non to salvation; nor any who
are sworn to aim at the subversion of every power that does not bow
to Rome." Is it not melancholy that a teacher of the enlightened
truths of Christianity should believe such an assertion to be true,
even after making it himself? This short sentence demonstrates how
very far behind the knowledge and spirit of the age the gentleman is,
and shows his unfitness, on this account, to be a leader in the councils
of people just emerging from barbarism.
" But we hold the rights of conscience inviolable, as protestants,
and as believers in the completeness and sufficiency of the Bible as
our guide. On this rock we take our stand, believing it to be im
moveable. Let the people be well taught to read and love and obey
the Bible, then all is well, all is safe. The Lion of Romanism would
then eat straw like the ox, and no longer war for prey, or find delight
in blood. Let the Bible be every where known and followed, and
it is of little consequence who publishes it!''
Thus speaks a distinguished leader of the mission, who denies having
interfered or told the chiefs to expel the catholics! I am convinced,
that the missionaries were the cause of the expulsion of the three
Roman catholics naraed; and I think, that few persons who have fol
lowed me thus far, can fail to arrive at a similar conclusion. Yet
at the moment of finding them guilty of this charge, I believe they
pursued a wise and justifiable policy, because the introduction of
various religious sects might have induced the islanders, not much
skilled in polemics, to reject Christianity altogether.*
After comparing the state of the islands, as it was twenty years
ago, with their present condition, it will be generally acknowledged
that the missionaries have exercised a very beneficial influence upon
the Hawaiians. They may now be called a christian nation. There
is, however, I am told, one chief on the island of Oahu, who still ad
heres to the idols and worship of former times. The faults of the
missionaries are those of omission, and not of commission. They
have christianized without civilizing the natives. In fear of popular
opinion, they stood aloof, and have allowed the rulers to continue as
ignorant of the art of government as they were on the day of their
arrival. They overlook the fact, that the Bible neither teaches po
litical economy nor agriculttire. Nor have they ever considered any
• A letter, dated 5th of May, 1837, informs me, that the same catholic missionaries
were agaui at Honolulu, but under orders from the chiefs to depart.

MISSIONARIES. 475
question in regard to its expediency; governed, perhaps, under the
erroneous idea, that their calling required them to forbear all inter
ference that did not tend to religious teaching; or, they may have
stood aloof under the fear of being accused of ambition to secure lo
theraselves political importance and influence in the nation. But I
never could suspect them of designs of this nature.
I regret to speak of the missionaries in any other than terms of
most unqualified respect and praise; and if my remarks fall harshly,
I have the consolation of feeling, they are uttered with no purpose of
wounding, but because I believe them to be true, and because I be
lieve the truth being told, may have a bearing upon the prospective
good of the islands.
The missionaries stationed at the Sandwich Islands as a class,
are inferior to all those whora it has been our fortune to meet at
other stations during the cruise. Many of thera are far behind the
age in which they live, deficient in general knowledge, and I think I
can trace in them raore of the linearaents of the Mucklewraths and
Poundtexts of by-gone days, than is desirable in divines of the
nineteenth century. Belonging to a sect, many of whose members,
by some unusual combination of circumstances, have been made to
reflect and consequently change their manner of life suddenly, they
have quitted their workshops to expound the scriptures; fancying all to
be as bad as they themselves were previous to conversion, they go
zealously to the work, and, feeling the deep importance of their sub
ject, deal damnation and destruction, in a peculiar slang, to all whose
opinions and course of life differ from their own. This is no sketch
of fancy; and we can only lament, there is no power to shield the
pulpit from the vulgar spoutings of unlettered ignorance. It is heard
in the United States, and I have no doubt, but the "Board of Com
missioners for Foreign Missions " sends abroad the best they have at
command. In some rare instances, we find combined in the person
of the missionary polished manners, knowledge of the world, unim
peachable piety, and a mind firm in solid learning, and graced by
various acquisitions of elegant literature. But it unfortunately hap
pens, that such men have generally held the subordinate and least
distinguished places in the missions, doomed to be ruled by the ma
jority, and labor in the detail of systems which their intelligence will
not approve. I might mention such a one, but I raust not individu
alize. However useful strong preachers may be in producing strong effects
upon vulgar minds, they are certainly not better adapted than those

476

MISSIONARIES.

of refined and elegant scholarship, to teach an ignorant people the
complicated science of social government.
Mr. Reynolds, in the " Voyage of the Potomac," has given a hymn
in the Hawaiian language, with an English version, which he states
to be a translation of the celebrated missionary hymn by Bishop He
ber. Since the publication of Mr. Reynolds' work, the hymn has
been printed at the mission press, as follows: —
HAWAIIAN MISSIONARY HYMN.

AN IMTTATIOB' OF BISHOP HEBEK.

Aloha ko na mauna,
I paa mau i ka hau,
A me ko Aitiopa,
Ko Inia me Makao,
Na muliwai kahiko,
Na mpku, na papu;
Kii mai ko laila pio,
I ola no lakou.

Compassion for the people.
Of mountains bound with frost.
The tribes of Ethiopia,
India and China's coast,
And those of ancient rivers.
And all the isles and plains.
Whose captives seek our succor.
To free them from their chains.

Auwe na lahuiaina
O na akua e !
Ka make o na aina
Ikulou ike kii!
Ko Aferikapdw/iV
Ko Asia naaupo!
Ko Mahomeda^ufe/
Ko Roma hewa hou.'
Pehea la ke hoole
Kakou i aoia mai
I kanaka pouli,
la lama e ola'i ? —
Ke Oia! O KB Ola!
Hoolaha ae kakou,
I lohe i ka Mesia,
A e hull ko ke ao.
E lawe e na makani,
I kana olelo mau;
I uhi kona nani
I ka honua a pau —
E hoi hou mai ka Alana,
I make no makou,
Ka Moi ola mana,
Ke Lii pomaikai mau.

Alas, for the vast regions.
Which strange gods still retain!
The ruin of the nations
That bow to idols vain!
Tor Africa's deep darkness.'
And Asia's moral gloom.'
The worship of Mohammed!
The dire relapse of Rome!
How then, shall we, enlightened.
Ungratefully deny.
To men who are benighted.
The torch of Life's blessed ray? —
-Salvation! O Saltation!
We'll publish all abroad.
That hearing of Messiah,
The world may turn to God.
Far, bear ye winds the story
Of His Eternal truth;
That soon Jehovah's glory
May cover all the earths-
Return, our great Oblation,
That once for us, was slain.
The risen, mighty Sovereign,
For ever blest^ to reign.

SANDWICH ISLANDS. 477
The insertion of the above hymn will serve as a specimen of the
language, and, at the same time, to disprove the charge of plagiarism
indirectly alleged against the raissionaries in the faulty version pub
lished in the work referred to.
The views of the missionaries and foreign residents at Honolulu,
on subjects of worldly interest, are very much at variance; and there
are several of the latter, (whose opinions, however, are worthy of no
respect,) who speak in the most reproachful terms of these christian
teachers. Yet, in spite of all the complaints against them, the mis
sionaries should be cherished, because they aim at the well being of
the islands, both temporally and eternally, and if they draw the re
strictive cord too tight, it is not through malicious intent.
The trading community, in the past few years, has increased ra
pidly, both in nuraber and respectability; and, for its extent, con
tains comparatively few disreputable people. We had every reason
to be gratified by the hospitality and kindness extended us while
here by all parties, and did not leave without regret.

CHAPTER XLIV.
SKETCHES IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
October, 1836.
The islands, naraed in honor of his patron, the Earl of Sandwich,
by their discoverer. Captain Cook, stretch in a north-westerly and
south-easterly direction, and lie between 18° 50' and 22° 20' of north
latitude, and between 154° 53' and 160° 15' longitude west from
Greenwich. Though first revealed to the christian world by Cap
tain Cook, in 1778, it is more than probable they were known to the
Spaniards, who traversed the Pacific, between the Philippines and
Acapulco, long before that period; and we are told that a Spaniard,
Juan Gay tan, visited them in the year 1600, and named them Islas
de la Mesa; he describes them as situated in about the twentieth de
gree of north latitude, and about one thousand leagues west of the

478 SANDWICH ISLANDS.
meridian of San Bias;* and if we bear in mind the imperfect state of
navigation at that period, we must conclude the " Islas de la Mesa"
and the Sandwich Islands to be one and the same. Besides, the
islanders have a tradition of vessels having been wrecked upon their
shores, previous to the arrival of Captain Cook, and from the descrip
tion they give of the costume, and other particulars relating to the
strangers thus thrown araong them, they could have been no other
than Europeans. Nqr is it probable that ships should sail directly
in their track, for two hundred years, without falling in with them.
It is pretty satisfactorily ascertained, that Japanese junks were more
than once stranded, not only upon the Sandwich Islands, but also on
the coast of California; and we have one very recent instance in the
case of the Japanese at present residing with the Rev. Mr. Gutzlaff,
at Macao. Have these facts any bearing upen the very interesting
question of the origin of the aboriginal inhabitants of the islands, and
of America?
The islands are ten in number, and are larger than the Socifety, or
any other group of islands in the Pacific Ocean. They are all, un
questionably, of volcanic origin. The island of Hawaii contains the
largest active crater in the world; the circuraference of which, ac
cording to the estimate of Mr. Ellis, (Polynesian Researches,) is not
less than six railes. The highest points on Hawaii, as recently de-
terrained by Mr. Daniel Douglas, (who was lately kdled by falling
into a bullock pit,) are Mouna Kea and Mouna Roa; the former is
13,764, and the latter 13,430 feet above the level of the sea. Though
earthquakes are here common, they are very rarely severe.
Of the ten islands, seven are inhabited. In 1836, their population
was as follows:—
Hawaii,  39,193
Oahu,  27,798
MAni,  24,195
Kauai, or Atci,  9,927
MoiOKAi,  6,000
Lanai,  1,200
Kaboolawe,  -- 80
Total population of Sandwich Isles in 1836, - 108,393
Total population in 1832, .... 129,814

Decrease in foiu" years,  21,421
• Notieias de la provincia de Californias, en tres cartas de un Sacerdote Heli-

popuLATiojy. 479
The relative number of births and deaths may be estimated from
the following statements, copied from the pages of the "Ke Kumu
Hawaii." In the province, or district, of Wailua (Oahu) the deaths for the
year ending July, 1835, were 136, and the births 45. The popula
tion of this district was.
In 1831,  2,640
In 1835, - - . . . 2,415
Decrease in 4 years, ... 225
The marriages in this district, according to the christian form, in
1834, were 29; and in the whole group of islands 1,125. In 1835,
the missionaries, at all the stations collectively, solemnized 1,390
marriages. These are exclusive of those by the Rev. I. Diell, the
seamen's chaplain, who marries, annually, a few foreigners to native
women. In sorae cases the ceremony is performed by the chiefs.
In the district of Eva (Oahu) the population was.
In 1831,  4,015
In 1835, - . - . - 3,423

Decrease in four years, - - 592
In the district of Waianae, (Oahu,) the population was.
In 1831,  1,868
In 1835,  1,654

Decrease in four years, - - 214
In the district of Kauai, (Kauai,) the deaths in the year 1835 were
164, and the births 80, in a population of 8,934.
In the district of Kohala, (Hawaii,) the population was
In 1832,  8,679
In 1836,  6,175

Decrease in four years, 2,504
gioso, Hijo del convento de Predicadores de Valencia, h un Amigo Suyo — Va
lencia, 1794.
The ancient Spanish charts describe islands in the same latitude, but different
longitude, which are called Ulloa, Desg^aciada, Mira, and Monge. See, Est»-
blecunientos Ultramarinos.

480 CAUSES OF DEPOPULATION.
In the district of Hamakua, (Hawaii,) the population was.
In 1832,  4,786
In 1836, - .... 4,015

Decrease in four years, - 771
From these data, allowing for the inaccuracy to which they are li
able, we may estimate, that the births are to the deaths as one to
two, and the decrease of the total population at the rate of six per
centum in four years, or one and a half per cent, per annum. The
decrease does not appear to be confined to one island or to one dis
trict, but to prevail, pretty equally, in the whole group.
If these data be correct, and we have every reason to believe they
are, and no means be taken to arrest this alarming decrease, it is
clear, the Sandwich islands, in the course of time, must be entirely
depopulated, though centuries must elapse before the last raan of the
nation expires.
We naturally ask what are the causes of this decrease of popula
tion, in a salubrious cliraate, where the people have never been af
flicted by any desolating epidemic? It is difficult, if not impossible,
to give a definite answer to this question, though we may offer some
thing which may assist in its solution.
It is clear, that this decrease is not owing to any one cause, and
may, therefore, be attributed, with more propriety, to the joint ef
fects of several causes. Infanticide, intemperance, bad living, change
in social habits, the state of political oppression, and, perhaps, we
may add, civilization; for it has been remarked that savage tribes
fall before the march of improveraent, in spite of every caution in
feeding and lodging. Every one of these causes raust operate upon
the physical condition, and consequently affect production.
It is not doubted, that the population has been decreasing ever
since the discovery of the islands by Captain Cook; and perhaps at
a more rapid rate, than since the introduction of Christianity; though
we have no positive data by which to verify such a supposition.
Previous to the establishment of the missionaries in the islands,
added to the causes of depopulation already named, were human
sacrifices to the gods, and cruel and exterminating wars; and child-
murder was practised to a great extent. As far as these were con
cerned in the depopulation, the efforts of the missionaries, we raust
suppose, would positively check it.
Infanticide was perpetrated upon infants from the fourth or fifth

INFANTICIDE. 481
month of utero-gestatioii, until they had attained the age of one or
even two years. The causes alleged by the mother for this unchris
tian act, were either the trouble of nursing, or that they were annoyed
by their offspring's cries. If a mother found her infant fretful, in
stead of soothing it with a mother's fond and tender caress, she forced
a piece of tapa-cloth into its throat to stifle complaint, and then
buried it alive, not unfrequently within the house, and close to the
mat upon which she slept. The act was committed with indif
ference and without any hesitation or misgiving.* How can we re
concile to these facts, the notion that love of offspring is innate and
necessary to the human breast? The love for children results from
the education of the parents in the first place, and from their inti
mate association with them in the second. From longer and closer
intimacy with her chddren, the love of the mother is much more
tender and enduring than that of the father, and increases with their
age. Hence it is, the death of an infant a few days old, is a trifling
loss to the parent, when compared with that of a prattling child, or
of a youth just verging into maturity. In this way, too, we may
account for the fact, that fathers often manifest a total indifference
towards illegitimate offspring.
Infanticide is still practised, but not to the same extent as for
merly, nor is the deed committed openly. At the imminent peril of
the mother, children are now destroyed about the fourth or fifth
month of utero-gestation, almost entirely in cases of illegitimacy,
and but very rarely after birth. Infanticide has been made a crime
by the civil law; and it is to be hoped, that these people will soon
feel it to be an offence, equally against social and moral rectitude, as
well as detrimental to their political condition.
The history of infanticide in these islands, shows a progress in the
sense of right and wrong. In their remote time, and until within a few
years, infanticide was not a crirae, nor did it draw reproach or dis
approbation upon the mother. Consequently, the life of the child
was taken, and neither the mother nor any of her friends perceived
any thing right or wrong in the act, which was followed by no feel-
ino-s of remorse, or dread of punishment. The act brought no dis
honor, and its memory never excited a pang. Unlike the deluded
victim of the seducer in civilized life, the Hawaiian mother is never
haunted by the spirit of her murdered babe. She perpetrates the
deed, uninterrupted by an agonizing contention of love and honor in
* Polynesian Researches by William Ellis. Vol. iv. London, 1831.
61

482

the sense of right and wrong.

her breast.* This sense then, of right and wrong, cannot be innate,
or it must be very weak, where the mother prefers committing mur
der, to bearing the petty annoyance of a crying child. This sense
of right and wrong is rather a sense of safety and of danger, and
results from the love oflife and its pleasures, or the instinctive
movement of a perceptive intelligence towards self-preservation.
This instinct is common to man and animals.
" It is an undeniable fact," says M. Cousin, " that when we have
done right or wrong, when we have obeyed the law of justice or have
broken it, we judge that we merit reward or punishment. It is,
moreover, a fact that vve do indeed receive reward or punishment:
1. In the approbation of conscience or in the bitterness of remorse:
2. In the esteem or censure of our fellow-men, who, themselves
moral beings, judge also of good and bad as we do, and, like
us, judge that right and wrong merit reward and punishment; and
who do punish and reward according to the nature of our actions,
soraetiraes by the raoral sentence of their esteera or blame, sorae
tiraes by physical punishments and rewards, which positive laws,
the legitimate interpreter of the law of nature, hold ready for ac
tions: 3. And finally, if we raise our thoughts beyond this world, if
we conceive of God as we ought, not only as the Author of the phy
sical world, but as the Father of the raoral world, as the very sub
stance of good, and of the tnoral law, we cannot but conceive that
God ought also to hold ready rewards and punishments for those
who have fulfilled or broken the law."t
* She has no thought like this: —
"Oh! Tu, que sin nacer moriste;
Confusa union del ser y de la nada,
Infausta aborto; prole aun mal formado.
Que del ser y no ser, despojo fuiste;
Tu que de un crimen vida recibiste,
Y de otro crimen, muerte accelerada —
De Amor, obra funesta y desgraciada;
De Honor victima, cruel, infausta y triste —
Deja el susto calmar, que me intimida:
No clames ^ mi pecho, filicida;
Dos tyranos juzgaron de tu suerte;
Amor, contra el Honor, te dio la vida,
Y Honor, contra el Amor, te da la muerte."
t Cousin's Elements of Psychology, by 0. S. Heniy.

the sense of right and wrong. 483
This sense of right and wrong is not innate, and does not depend
upon a law of nature; it is rather a sense of safety and of danger,
and depends upon, and always has reference to special codes of law.
It was in consequence of the special law or injunction not to eat the
apple, that Adam and Eve felt the sense of wrong and hid theraselves
to avoid the infliction of punishment; for it is fair to presume, that
previous to the injunction not to do it, tiiey might have eaten the
apple without emotion of any kind. There was nothing intrinsically
wrong in eating the apple; it was the law which made it so. It is
not the sense of wrong that suggests stealth to the thief or murderer,
but the instinct of self-preservation which teaches him to avoid de
tection to escape the punishment of the law. Give hira sufficient
force and take away the law, and he will enact his deeds openly.
Where there is no law, physical or moral, there can be no such thing
as merit or demerit; and of course, no place for reward or punish
ment, nor ground for peace of conscience or the pains of remorse.
Do the Dayaks of Borneo think they are doing wrong when they
hunt their fellow raen to obtain human heads wherewith to court
their sweethearts? Do the Chinese women feel they are doing wrong
when they perpetrate infanticide? Does the Turk think he is doing
wrong when he cozens the Christian? Do cannibals feel they are
doing wrong when they feed on human flesh? To each and all of
these questions the answer is. No! And the reason why these acts
do not bring with them a sense of wrong, is that with those people
there are no laws, either physical or moral, against tiiem. The sarae
was also true of the Sandwich Islanders, in respect to infanticide,
previous to the institution of the law against it; but since its institu
tion, the act of child murder is accompanied by a sense of wrong, or
rather a sense of danger, a fear of punishment; and hence it is, the
deed is no longer coraraitted openly. Indeed, infanticide and adult
murder, are opposed only in those communities whose intelligence
has pointed out the principle of common good, and where the pre
servation of society and the increase of the population are recognised
as political desiderata. It is a mistake, to suppose that there is a
code of moral or physical laws universally applicable to the human
race in its present condition, to explain the phenomena of human na
ture, unless we except that of self-preservation. Ideas of duty, and
the consciences of men, depend upon education, or upon the man
ners and customs of the people amongst whom their first lot or birth
may be cast. The Hindoo wife perishes upon the same funeral pile
that consumes the dead body of her husband; Mohammedans who

484 intemperance — mode of life.
break the law of their prophet, are as much conscience-stricken, feel
as much remorse as Christians or believers in other religious creeds,
when they transgress the rules and precepts of their respective
faiths. It is clear that what M. Cousin states as an 'undeniable fact,' in
the above quotation, is only partially so; and is only true of christians
and men who are reared in christian communities.
But, to return from this digression to the consideration of other
causes of decrease of the populatiou : Intemperance in diet and the
abusive use of ardent spirits, which is their first acquisition from in
tercourse with christian strangers, affecting as it does, very conside
rably, both production and duration, by inducing premature exhaus
tion of the vital forces, and consequently a host of active diseases,
must powerfully oppose the increase of population. The fact is so
well known, that it requires neither proof nor illustration.
When we see the manner in which many of the Hawaiians live, we
wonder how it is possible for human beings thus fed or rather fasted,
thus lodged and not clothed, nor sheltered either from sunshine or rain,
or chilling blasts of the mountain winds; we wonder how they have
resisted in their childhood, the causes of destruction, amidst which
they first see the light, and in spite of them not only arrive at adult
age, but even live to a comfortable senectitude. In the valley of Ma
noa, I saw several families residing on spots of earth, sheltered from
the damp ground and vicissitudes of the weather, by a hovel of mats,
just large enough for them to crawl into. Yet in this, as in all the
valleys, there are showers almost daUy, and the atmosphere is so cool
that Europeans find blankets not only bearable but necessary. The
food of these natives consists almost exclusively of taro, and when
they occasionally get a little meat or fish, they esteera theraselves for
tunate. A change has taken place in certain custoras, which must have in
fluenced the physical development of the islanders. I allude to the
variety of athletic exercises, such as swimming, with or without the
surf-board, dancing, wrestling, throwing the javalin, &c., all of which
games, being in opposition to the severe tenets of Calvinism, have
been suppressed, without the substitution of other pursuits, to fill up
the time. Whether sinful or not, will depend upon the religious code
by which they are measured. But let this be as it may, these exer
cises and games affect the health and longevity of the people, be
cause, being deprived of these sports, they labor only to obtain food,
which may be two days in the week, and having no mental relaxa-

suppression of GAMES. 485
tion, the remainder of the tirae is devoted to sleeping, or drinking
and other vicious practices. It must be borne in mind, that we are
speaking of people whose blood has always moved beneath a tropic
sun, from their remotest ancestry to the present time. They cannot
endure the same uninterrupted and incessant labor as Europeans or
Americans, without a very much greater wear and tear; and though
capable of very severe toil and great physical achievement, it is only
for a short time together, and is generally followed by long periods
of rest. Within the tropics, the inhabitants require longer periods
of relaxation, both from mental and physical employment, than in tem
perate climates; and there are few who have not heard of the dangers
which environ those of high latitudes, who reside in, or even visit the
equatorial regions of the earth. Now, simply desisting from labor
is not rest; particularly in young subjects; people, to enjoy life, require
more; they want amusement, without which they flag, the spirits
droop, disease follows, and they drag on a miserable, misanthropic
existence till death closes the scene. The practice in the middle and
northern sections of our country, must not be taken as a rule, for
there is perhaps no civilized people on earth, with the same opportu
nities, who spend so little time in sports and amusements. They
all fix upon a time to come for enjoyment, which generally arrives
when the vivacity and elasticity of mind and body have already dis
appeared, and the organism is no longer sensible to pleasure.
Would these games have been suppressed had the missionaries ne
ver arrived at the islands? It is fair to presume that they would have
continued in use. Can the missionaries be fairly charged with sup
pressing these games? I believe they deny having done so. But they
write and publicly express their opinions, and state these sports to
be expressly against the laws of God, and by a succession of reason
ing, which may be readily traced, impress upon the minds of the
chiefs and others, the idea that all who practise them, secure to them
selves the displeasure of offended heaven. Then the chiefs from a
spontaneous benevolence, at once interrupt custoras so hazardous to
their vassals.
On one occasion in Honolulu, I was present at a soiree where se
veral persons of the mission were in company with ten or eleven la
dies, and a number of gentlemen, many of them officers of our little
squadron. A few songs were sung accompanied by the piano. Dancing
was proposed by some of the young persons, and presently one of the
officers managed to obtain a violin. The bow was drawn sportively
across the strings outside of the door, to announce the ' glad tidings.'

4 86 GOVERNMENT.
The missionaries took the alarm, and, with all regard to decorum,
took a speedy leave. Of course there was no impropriety in this.
The party continued dancing till a late hour, and none of us had rea
son to complSin of the pleasures of the evening. A few days after
wards, we were informed through a respectable native woman, who
speaks English, that one of the raissionaries took occasion to allude
to this party in his sermon, in which he set forth the sin of dancing,
and rebuked all such pastimes, and concluded by reminding his
hearers that they never saw the missionaries do such things. It is
offered as an apology for alluding to the subject frora the pulpit, that
a nuraber of natives were looking on from outside, and the mission
aries apprehended their own characters for consistency might suffer
from being seen in such festive company.
That the missionaries are correct according to their own con
sciences and the tenets of their faith, I presume no one will deny;
and they of course believe they are acting for the general good; but
some wUl think, nevertheless, that such a course is highly ill-judged
and impolitic, as applied to the social condition and worldly prospe
rity of the nation, as well as opposed to the advancement of civil
and political knowledge araong the people and their rulers.
A glance at the political governraent of the islands will be suffi
cient to show under what oppression the coramon people live.
" The Hawaiian system of governraent," says Mr. Ellis, " whether
derived from the country whence the first settlers emigrated, or es
tablished by warlike chieftains in a subsequent period of their history,
as an expedient to secure conquests, to comraand the services of their
tenants on occasions of war, and to perpetuate the influence which
military prowess or success in the first instance had given them, ex
hibits, in its decided monarchical character, the hereditary descent
of rank and office, and other distinguishing features, considerable
advances from a state of barbarism, and warrants the conclusion that
they have been an organized community for many generations. But
whatever antiquity their system may possess, they have made but
little progress in the art of good government. The well-being of the
subject seems to have been rarely regarded by the rulers, who appear
to have considered the lower orders in general as a kind of property,
to be employed only in promoting the interests of their superiors;
and the ardent love of wealth, which an acquaintance with the pro
ductions of foreign countries has excited in most of the chiefs, has
not improved the condition of the people. Industry receives no en
couragement; and even those whom natural energy of character would

GOVERNMENT. 487
induce to cultivate a larger portion of land than was absolutely neces
sary for their bare subsistence, are deterred from the attempt by the
apprehension of thereby exposing themselves to the rapacity of ava
ricious or necessitous chiefs. Nothing can be more detrimental to
the true interests of the chiefs, and the civilization and happiness of
the people, than the abject dependence of the latter, the uncertain
tenure of lands, the exactions of the chiefs, and the restrictions on
the trade with the shipping which they impose."
The governraent is a pure hereditary despotism, the will of the
monarch in all cases being the law. Heirship is not confined to the
male line, but in most instances female descent gives rank, which
was explained to Mr. Canning by the late king Riho'riho when in Eng
land: he stated, that in the Sandwich Islands, a man never certainly
knew who was his father; but, in regard to his mother, doubts seldom
existed. The systera of governraent in its details is complex. There is no
written code; though a few of the laws have been lately published.
At the market the prices of every thing are fixed by the chiefs, who
require one half of the receipts of the common people as their own
perquisite. Their exactions upon the produce of the soil is in an
equal ratio; so that a day laborer, who obtains one or two days' em-
ployraent in the week, is equally well oft" with him who manages a
a little farm. Besides paying these exactions, the common people
are obliged to render man-service to the king, five days in fourteen.
There is also a poll tax, levied at a dollar for every man; a half dol
lar for every woman, and a quarter of a dollar for every child four
feet high.
The soil is recognised to be the sole property of the king. It was
divided out amongst the chief warriors at the tirae of the conquest,
and for its use they pay a tax in produce; but at the will of the king
they may be deprived of their possessions at any moment. No mea
sure of land has yet been established, but districts or portions of
soil are marked by natural boundaries. In the same way each is
land has a governor who pays the king an annual contribution in pro
duce and dollars.
Such then are the influences combined against the increase of the
population of these islands, which, under a different state of things,
might become a seat of arts and of learning, and crowded with opu
lent people. Their position is very favorable for trade. Lying in
the route between the western coasts of America and China, they have
become an entrepot for merchant vessels, and the fur traders of the
north-west coast of America, as well as a place of refreshment for

488 COMMERCE.
the great American whale fleet of the Pacific. When the laws shall
be so modified as to encourage labor, and the soil shall be put under
cultivation, large crops of sugar, cotton, coffee, tobacco and silk will
forra the staples of a valuable coraraerce.
It is difficult to estimate the value of the present trade of the islands.
The capital constantiy changing hands raay be annually $300,000
dollars, and always at an advance of from one to two hundred per
cent. Bills of exchange either on England or the United States, are
at a discount of from fifteen to twenty per cent.
The value of real estate owned at Honolulu by the Americans and
English is estimated at $100,000; and the whole amount of property
of every description exclusive of shipping, thus owned, is not less
than half a mUlion of dollars, of which four-fifths are Araerican.
There are nearly two thousand tons of shipping owned by the
foreign residents of Oahu, said to be worth $90,000.
In the year 1834, 95 Araerican whale ships, 17 English whale
ships, and 36 merchant vessels visited the port of Honolulu. In
1835, the number of whale ships was 72, and that of the merchant
vessels 36.
Statement of Imports at Honolulu, for the years 1834
AND 1835.
From the United States, in merchant vessels, $162,000
Chile and Peru, " " 56,000
England and America, in whale ships, 40,000
 ^58,000
Consisting of bleached and unbleached, and blue cotton
cloth, prints, chintz, hardware, sheathing copper, cord
age, canvass, naval stores, paints, iron, bread, salted provi
sions, brandy, rum, wines, gin, furniture, soap, and oil.
From China — blue nankins, cotton goods, silks, teas, sugar, &c. 97,000
From Upper California — sea-otter skins, bullocks' hides, horses, lum
ber, &c. 104,000
From Columbia river, and Russian settlements on the north-west coast —
salmon, lumber, spars, &c. 33,000
From the north-west coast of America — furs, 29,000
From Mexico — specie, 20,000
From New South Wales and New Zealand — spars, lumber, hardware,
cotton goods, &c. 16,000
From the Society, Friendly, and Caroline islands — pearl shells, turtle
shell, sugar, arrow root, cocoanut oil, &c. 15,000
From Belgium — laces, gin, beer, &c. 3,000
$575,000

commerce. 489
In the above statement no account is made of the large quantity
of merchandise brought to Honolulu, destined for other markets, and,
of course, carried away without landing or changing hands. The
statement shows the actual business operation.
Statement of the Exports from Honolulu for the years
1834 AND 1835.
Sandal wood, 9,500 peculs, $60,000
Furs — sea and land otter skins, beaver skins, &c. 109,000
BuUocks' hides, 26,000
Oil — Spermaceti, cocoanut, and Kukui oils, > 20,000
Turtle shell, $6,000— peai-1 shell, $6,000, 12,000
Salt, $6,000— goat skins, $7,000, 13,000
Arrow root, $2,000— Tobacco, $2,000, 4,000
Foreign merchandise — chiefly exported to California, the Russian set
tlements, Mexico, and islands in the South Pacific, 100,000
Provisions and supphes to whale ships, which are paid for in barter
and bills of exchange on the United States and England, 140,000
Specie, 10,000

Total amount of Exports, $494,000
Bills of exchange, drawn by the governors of the Russian colonies
on the imperial governraent, and by masters of ships on their owners,
afford the means of remitting a large amount, annually, to the United
States, China, &c.
For the above statements I am indebted to Mr. H. A. Pierce.
As will be seen in the following meraorial, our trade is, at tiraes,
interrupted, and requires the occasional presence of a ship-of-war
for its protection. " Oahu, Sandwich Islands,
September 16th, 1836.
" To Edmund P. Kennedy, Esq.
Commanding U. S. Naval Forces, of the
East India aud Asiatic Station.
" Sir,
" The undersigned, citizens of the United States of America, resi
dent at the Sandwich Islands, beg leave respectfully to represent to
you: " That we are all, directly or indirectiy, interested in thecommer-
62

490 memorial of American residents.
cial operations conducted from the United States, China, and these
Islands, to the coasts of California and Mexico:
" That many serious outrages and unjust acts have been committed
by the governmental authorities of those countries upon Anierican
vessels and seamen, and great losses and damages sustained in con
sequence. " In the summer of 1833, the brig Loriot, Gorham H. Nye, master,
Alpheus B. Thompson, supercargo, was unwarrantably sei;z;ed ip the
harbor, of St. Francisco, and detained several months. The sails of
the vessel were unbent, her rudder unhung, and carried on shore, the
master and crew were confined on board, and the supercargo com
mitted to prison, whence he was not allowed his liberty for many
months, nor until he had procured heavy bonds not to leave the coun
try. He still remains under those bonds, if not in prison.
Frora intelligence recentiy received from California, we believe
that a vessel, owned by John Coffin Jones, Esq., U. S. Consul, at
this place, has been seized, and is, at present, detained, under simi
lar circumstances of injustice, for alleged violations of the laws of
the country, while she was under the direction other previous own
ers, and in command of her former master.- We refer to these as
instances of grievous embarrassments arbitrarily imposed on our com
merce. " Y/e belieye that jio vessf;! of the United States government has,
for many years, visited Upper California; and we have great confi
dence that, were a naval force to appear on that coast, and visit
Lower Californip, and Mexico, it would render valuable service to
our citizens r,esiding jn thosp .countries, would afford needed succor
and protection to American vessels, at present employed there, and
be attended with results peculiarly advantageous to the general inte
rests of our national commerce.
" With these statements and views, we have to express the hope that
you raay find it in your power to visit those coasts with the force un
der your command, before you shall leave the Pacific.
With due considerations of respect,
we remain, sir, your fellow citizens.
Pierce & Brewer, Ladd & Co.
Joseph Moore, Sherman Peck,
.William Paty, Hinckley & Smith,
A. H. Fayerweather, A. C. Davis,
Thomas Cummins, John Paty,
Henhv p. Stevens, Samuel A. Cushing,

a:iiekican consuls. 491
Ei.iAB Grimes & Co. Wm. French, bv J. J. Greenway,
Thomas Mf.ek, 1. R. Thomas, Jr.
Henry Paty & Co. J. EnBEns,
J. Peabody, SrK.PHE.v D. Mackintosh,
Eli Socthworth, William II. Peakce,
Joseph Nav.vrro, Cornelius Hoyer,
D. Owen, Nelson Hall,
Samuel F. Shaw, Charles Titcomb,
William C. Little."
Our commercial interests at the Sandwich Islands require a con
sulate on a footing diflerent frora the present one. The consul
should be placed, by a competent salary, bej'ond tiie influence of
personal interest in commercial transactions, that his opinions raay
be as free from bias as those of a'judge on the bench. This has been
urged, again and again, for the past seven years, and merits investi
gation, at least, by the proper branch of ouV government. The gen
tleman who at present fills the office is a favorite with all parties,
and we regret that he was absent, engaged in his commercial affairs.
It was said, that a vice-consul here displayed too much energy
among seamen; and when a vessel arrived, of which the crew was,
from anv cause, discontented, he v.'ent on board, and said, "Now,
men, there are three things I won't hear a word about — you mustn't
say you are' worked too hard, that you are ill treated, or haven't enough
to eat. If you have any thing else to say, I'll listen to you."
If, on the contrary, the commander preferred charges against any
of his crew, this vice-consul, arrogating to himself the final power
of a court of oyer et terminer, condemned the charged seamen to la
bor in the fort at Honolulu; excusing the irregularity of the act with
a sage apothegm, that tlwse wlio eat must work, for he was not au
thorized to support any body in idleness.

492 treaty between the united states

CHAPTER XLV.
SKETCHES IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.
October, 1836.
When foreigners first settled in the islands, the king or chiefs al
lotted to each one, upon application, a site for building a house, for
which they paid neither tax nor lease-rent. But when they left the
islands,.the privilege of transferring tenements or improvements by
sale or otherwise, was denied; and the chiefs, in several instances,
directed the owners to remove their houses, and then proceeded to
take thera down, and, piling the tiraber where the house stood, or
dered it to be taken away. The Hawaiians were, and still are
treated in like manner. From this custom several disputes have
arisen, the foreigners insisting upon their right of selling or other
wise disposing of their property, at any time, to any person or per
sons, which the king denies. The American residents complained
of several grievances of this kind, and others under the following
treaty.
HE- OLELO KUIKAHI.
Articles of aiTangement made and Na olelo- keia i hooponoponoia'i a
concluded at Oahu, between Thomas hoopaaia'io Oahu nei e Thomas ap
AP Catesbt Jones, appointed by the Catesbz Jowes kekahi,, ko Amerika
United States, of the one part, and luna i hoounaia mai nei mai ka United
KiUiEEAooii, King of the Sandwich States mal, a me ke alii o ko Hsiwali
Islands, and his Guardians, on the nei pae aina o KAciKEAonij o laua me
other part. ona kahu kekahi.
ARTICLE I. PAUKU I.
The peace and friendship subsisting Eia kekahi olelo; ke olelo pu nei ka,
between the United States and their kou e hoopaa loa i ke kuikahi pu ana a
Majesties, the Queen Regent and Kau- me ke aloha pu ana o ko Amerika a me

AND THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

493

ikeaouli. King of the Sandwich Islands,
and their subjects and people, are
hereby confirmed and declared to be
perpetual. ARTICLE II.
The ships and vessels of the United
States (as well as their Consuls and all
other citizens,) within the territorial
jurisdiction of the Sandwich Islands, to
gether with aU their property, shall be
inviolably protected against aU enemies
of the United States in time of war.
ARTICLE m.
The contracting parties, being de
sirous to avail themselves of the boun
ties of Divine Providence, by promoting
the commercial intercourse and friend
ship subsisting between the respective
nations, for the better secui-ity of these
desirable objects, their Majesties bind
themselves to receive into their ports
and harbors all ships and vessels of the
United States, and to protect to the ut
termost of their capacity, all such ships
and vessels, their cargoes, ofiicers and
crews, so long as they shall behave them
selves peacefully, and not infringe the
established laws of the land; the citi
zens of the United States being per
mitted to trade freely with the people
of the Sandwich Islands.
ARTICLE IV.
Their Majesties do farther agree to
extend the fullest protection within
their control to aU ships and vessels of
the United States, which may be wreck
ed on their shores, and to render every
assistance in their power to save tlie
wreck, and her apparel and cargo; and
as a reward for the assistance and pro
tection which the people of the Sand
wich Islands shall afford to all such dis
tressed vessels of the United States,
they shall be entitled to a salvage or a
portion of the property so saved; but

ko Hawaii kahu alii wahine a me ke alii
nui o Hawaii nei o Kauikeaooli, a me
ko laua poe kanaka a me pa makaainana
a pau loa; eia ka hoailona e mau loa'i ua
kuikahi nei, PAUKU If.
Eia hou ncla, a o ko Amerika poe
moku mal a me ko laila kanikele, a me
ko laila kanaka ma keia pae aina a me ko
lakou waiwai, a i hlki i ka wa kaua, e pau
ia mau mea i ka malama pono ia o ko Ha
waii nei i ko Amerika enemi a pau loa.
PAUKU III.
Eia hou nela, e makemake ana keia
mau poe e loaa mal la lakou ka waiwai
a ke Akua 1 haawi mai al, i ka hookula
pu ana a me ke aloha pu ana o na aina
o ka poe nana keia oleolo, nolaila hoi
no ka paa pono ana o keia mau mfea
mahalo, e ae mai ua mau alii o Hawaii
nei, e pono ia laua e komo no iloko o ko
laua awa a me ko laua mau wahl e ku
ai ka moku, o na moku Amerika a pau,
a e malama nui aku i ua mau moku la a
me na ukana maluna a me na alii a me
na kanaka o ua mau moku la ol hana
pono mai lakou a i haki ole ia lakou na
kanawai o keia aina i kau ai, e kuai no
hoi ko Amerika, me ko Hawaii nei poe
kanaka. PAUKU IV.
Eia hou nela; ke olelo io nei ua mau
alii nei, e malama nui laua i ko Ameri
ka poe moku ke iii mai raa ko laua pae
aina, c hooikaika pono aku laua i pa-
kele ai ka moku ill a me kana mau mea
a pau a me kona ukana. He pono no e
loaa mai i ko Hawaii nei poe ka uku no
ko lakou hooikaika ana i pakele ai au
moku iii la a i malama pono ia ai ka
mau mea ana. — Eia ka uku, he mau ka-
la paha a i ole ia, o kekahi puu o ka
waiwai i hoopakele ia ai, ka uku. Ina
ekolu puu waiwai ua like, hookahi puu

494

TREATY BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES

such salvage shall in no case exceed
one-third of the value saved, which
valuation is to be fixed by a commis
sion of disinterested persons, who shall
be chosen equally by the parties.

ARTICLE y.
Citizens of the United States whe
ther resident or transient, engaged in
commerce or trading to the' Sandwich
Islands, shall be inviolably protected in
their lawful pursuits;' and shall be al
lowed to sue for and recover by judg
ment, all cliiims against the subjects of
his Majesty, the King, according to
strict principles of equity and the ac
knowledged practice of civilized nar
tions. ARTICLE VI.
Their Majesties do farther agree,
and bind themselves, to discountenance
and use all practicable means to pre
vent desertion from all American ships
which visit the Sandwich Islands; and
to that end, it shall be made the duty
of all governors, magistrates;' chiefs of
districts and all others in authority, to
apprehend all deserters, and deliver
them over to the master of the vessel
from which they have deserted; and
for the apprehension of every such de
serter, who shall be delivered over as
aforesaid, the master, owner or agent
shall pay to the person or persons ap
prehending such deserter, the sum of
six dollars, if taken on the side of the
island near which the vessel is anchor
ed; but if taken on the opposite side of
the island, the sum shall be tvrelve
dollars; and if taken on any other isl
and, tlie reward shall be twenty-four
dollars, and shall be a just charge
against the wages of every such deserter.

paha ka uku, aka aole loa e nui aku ko
lakou uku i kekahi o ua puu waiwai
akola la.
A o ka mea nona ka moku a o ka poe
i hoopakelela ai ka waiwai, e kuhlkuhi
pu lakou i kekahi mau kanaka e aole no
lakou ka waiwai na lakou hoi e hoike
mai i ka nui o ka waiwai i malamia ia.
PAUKU V.
A o ko Amerika poe kanaka e kuai
ana ma ko Hawaii nei pae aina, ka poe
e noho ana a me ka poe e holoholo ana,
e pau lakou i ka malama ponoia i ka la
kou hana ana i ka mea i ku 1 ke kanawai.
A he pono no lakou e lioopaa i kapoe
lawehala ma ke kanawai, a ma ka ahao-
lelo e loaa mai al la lakou ka uku e pau
ai ha ale pono a pau a na kanaka o ko
Hawaii nei alii e like ai me ke kanawai
pololei a me ka oihana' o ka aina naauao
i Ikea ai. PAUKU VI.
Eia hou neia, ke olelo io nei ke alri
nui laua o kona kahu ka olelo i paa ai
laua i ka hooikaka aku laua e pau ai ka
mahuka ana mai o na kanaka o ko Ame
rika mau moku e hlki mai ana i ko Ha
waii nei pae aina, e alai aku no i ka
mahuka ana mal.
No ia mea, be pdno no na'lii malama
aina, a me na kilo, a. me na klaaina, a
me na kaualii a pau e hopu aku a paa
ka poe mahuka a pan, a e hoihoi aku i
ka mea nona ka moku i haalele ia aku ai.
A e ukuia mai ko onei poe i hopu
aku, e ka mea nona ka moku. Ina ma
ka aoao o ka aina e ku ai ka moku e paa
ai ka mea i mahuka, eono kala ka uku.
A ina ma keia aoao o ka aina e paa ai
umi a me kumemalua kala ka uku, a
ina ma ka dna e i moku i ke kai e paa
ai a i hoihoi ikona moku, iwakalua ka
la a me kumamaha ka uku no loko po
no keia uku o ka wsuwai a ka mea ma
huka 1 hoolimalimaia'i malaila e kaupo-
nola'i.

AND THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 495
ARTICLE VII. PAUKU VII.
No tonnage duties or impost shall be Eia hou nela; aole lo aku ka uku mai
exacted of any citizen of the United no ke awa oko Amerika poe kanaka iko
States, which is not paid by the citizens ka aina punahele kanaka e kuai ana ma
or subjects of the nation most favored ko Hawaii pae aina, aole kii hou ia aku
in commerce with the Sandwich Isl- ka uku nui a e o ko Amerika kanaka.
ands; and the citizens or subjects of A e kuai no ko Hawaii nei poe kan -
the Sandwich Islands shall be allowed ka me ko Amerika, e like ka oihana a
to trade with the United States and her me ka pono e pono ai ko ka aina puna-
teriitorles, upon principles of equal a/1- hele loa i ke kuai pu ana mal me ko
vantage with the most favored nation. Hawaii nei pae aina.
Done in Council at Honolulu, Island of Ua hoopaala i ka ahaolelo ma Honulu, i
Oahu, this 23d day of December, in ka aina Oahu nei, i keiala 23d o De-
theyear of our Lord 1826. temaba, i ka makahiki o ko kakou
Haku 1826.
THOMAS AP CATESBY JONES. ELISABETA KAAHUMANU,
KARAIMOKU,
BOKI, HOAPILI, LIDIA NAMAHANA,
THOS. AP CATESBY JONES.
With a view to the adjustment of these differences, Commodore
Kennedy waited upon Kinau, the governess of the Island of Oahu.
We found her at her house, near the fort, with her husband and
several of the chiefs. The house has adobe walls, and a native roof,
lined with mats. One side of the apartment in whioh we were re
ceived, was occupied bya pile of mats, which served as adivan or abed,
according to circumstances. A board partition, neatly painted,
separated it from the sleeping apartment of Kinau. The furniture
consisted of a table, a China desk, Windsor chairs-, and arm chairs
for the king, governess and Commodore.
It had been improperly given out that the interview was to be
public, and as the subjects to be discussed were of much general
interest to the foreign residents, a considerable number attended at
the several interviews which took place.
We were politely welcomed, and learned that the king had de
puted Kinau to act for him, as he was too unwell to attend.
The first complaint preferred, was, that American vessels had been
prevented from trading at the Island of Maui without justifiable
cause, which act was in violation of the third article of the treaty.
Kinau stated that one vessel had been prevented from trading at
Maui, because the Captain, in open violation of the law, after having
been duly informed of it, continued to sell ardent spirits, whieh the

496 INTERVIEWS WITH THE KING OF THE
king had prohibited in all the islands except Oahu. Nor does he
allow it to be distilled except on this island. This explanation was
received as amply satisfactory.
The next subject brought up for consideration was, whether the
king had a right to prevent American residents from transferring
houses, &c., by sale or otherwise. Kinau urged, that the king had
never, in any instance, alienated his right in the soil, and when lots
of ground were assigned to foreigners, it was always understood,
either on the departure of the individual frora the islands, or at his
death, such ground reverted to the king, and that it must be cleared.
That the king would give his consent, were it asked, to the sale or
transfer of houses, &c., provided he should deem the person to
whora the transfer was to be made, respectable, and likely to be a
good citizen.
The next day another interview occurred, and the subject was
again discussed. The king was now present. He argued, that if
he yielded the right of free transfer, without consulting the govern
ment, he virtually resigned his right in the soil, which was unaliena
ble, as well as all authority or control over it, and thus he might
be deprived of all his country. He was asked how that could be the
case, so long as he received a rent or tax for it; and we were told
in reply, that he had in no instance received rent or tax for
lands hitherto granted to foreigners. There was no representative
value affixed to land; and keeping this fact in view, we are not
surprised at His Majesty's arguraent. The subject of leasing lands
for the purpose of cultivating sugar, cotton, coffee, tobacco, or silk,
was talked of, and the king expressed himself decidedly in favor of
the principle; but wished to be expressly understood, that in recog
nising the principle of lease, he did not feel bound to grant lands to
all who might apply. He was unwilling to give this in writing, be
cause, he said, it was a new thing, and required more consideration
than he had yet been able to give it.
On both of these occasions, the Rev. Mr. Bishop acted as inter
preter. His constant attention, his gentlemanly demeanor, and his
enlarged views of the subjects under discussion, as well as the know
ledge he displayed of the language, commanded the praise and ap
probation of all the officers present. He was equally desirous with
our commercial countrymen here, to settle the question of the right
of transferring property, because the property of the mission was not
more secure than that belonging to other foreigners.
Some questions were asked in relation to the authority of Ameri
can consuls. An English cockney who was present, and who volun-

SANDWICH ISLANDS. 497
•
teered to give us information on the subject, afterwards asked, " Have
you attorneys or lawyers in America?" I mention this because it
reminds me that a gentleraan of tiie sarae tribe asked me, at Valpa
raiso, in 182r, what we did in America when we wanted a coat; —
then pausing, and perhaps perceiving my astonishment, added — "Ah!
but I imagine some English tailors have gone out there by this time."
A third interview took place the following day, on which occasion,
Mr. Charaberlain, the fiscal agent of the mission, acted as interpre
ter. I was surprised to find that he, as well as several others of the
mission, entertained a notion, that if foreigners were allowed to lease
lands, there would be a risk of the king losing all control over the
islands, and for that reason opposed the principle which had been re
cognised. Messrs. Ladd & Co. have already leased a tract of land on the
island of Kauai, for cultivating sugar-cane and making sugar. They
pay a rent for it, and besides granting them some privileges, pay the
natives whom they employ, daily wages of about twelve and a half
cents each, and their poll tax. The king declares, his revenue from
this one plantation, is greater than that which he previously received
from the whole island.
An old claim of $60,000 was admitted, and the king offered to li
quidate it within two years, provided the claimant would receive it
in any articles produced upon the islands, which should be left to his
selection, and he would commence the payment at once; but the gen
tleman was absent, and his agent did not think proper to accept
the terms; we afterwards saw him, and he told me he would have
gladly acceded to the proposition, had he been present.
A very much smaller claim of another American was also recog
nised. Though nothing was settled, it must be plain to those who re
flect upon the subject in all its bearings, that the mere discus
sion of the several points, so entirely new to the mind of his Ha
waiian Majesty, must have a beneficial effect; particularly if nego
tiation should be in future attempted by any pne clothed with proper
authority. Nor were these interviews to no purpose, since they re
sulted in a formal acknowledgment of American claims to a very
considerable amount, for which the gentlemen most interested
must feel entirely indebted to the kind interference of Commo
dore Kennedy, He could not, consistentiy with American prin
ciples of honor and justice, make use of threats, or force, to bully

498 COMMODORE KENNEDv's LETTER TO THE KING
these people into an acquiescence with his views, as a British Cap
tain, Lord Edward Russel, we are informed, has since done. Per
haps he regarded the king and chiefs as rebellious subjects of His
Britannic Majesty, inasmuch as the celebrated Tamehameha ceded
these islands, through Captain Vancouver, to Great Britain, which
cession was confirmed by the late King Riho'riho, when in England.
But as Americans never resort to the force of arms to corroborate
their arguments in diplomacy, particularly when no such appeal is
necessary, Coraraodore Kennedy left them to learn the advantage
and importance of the subjects urged upon their consideration.
Before sailing, the following letters, which explain themselves,
were directed to the authorities. " U. States Ship Peacock,
Honolulu, Sandwich Islands,
October 7th, 1836.
" To His Majesty,
Kauikeaouli, King of the Sandwich Islands,
" Having indulged the hope that the negotiations which have been
pending for the past week, would have terminated in the formation
of more intimate relations, and some new ties of friendship between
our respective countries, which would be advantageous to American
citizens as well as to your own subjects, I cannot refrain, on leaving
these islands, from expressing in a concise manner, my sentiments
with regard to several subjects of importance, upon which we have
not been able to come to a definite conclusion.
"The first, which is in my opinion, at present, of paramount
importance, is the right of American citizens to transfer to other
American citizens, any property, rights, or privileges, which may
have been derived from the government of these islands, either by
purchase, gift, or lease.
" This right is so essential for the protection of the interests of resi
dents, that although not expressly stated in the Treaty made by Cap
tain Jones, it may be very easily inferred from it, and as it is equally
necessary for the interests of these islands, that every foreigner's
right should be distinctly stated and carefully preserved, I have to
express the hope that you will, at an early period, adopt some plans
which will prevent farther occasion of dissatisfaction in this respect,
both with regard to those now holding lands, and those who may here
after become tenants. Unless this should be the case, it cannot be

OF THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. 499
expected that any one will be disposed to invest their property in
buildings on governraent lands, and consequently the natives will be
deprived of a considerable amount of property, which is now expend
ed by settiers frora abroad, in erecting durable dwelling-houses or
stores, and all Improvement in the appearance and convenience of
the dwellings must speedily cease.
" I beg also that the subject of leasing or renting lands to our citi
zens for agricultural purposes, may receive your best attention; be
ing fully convinced, that the prosperity of this nation can in no way
be more speedily promoted, than by encouraging the growth of sugar,
coffee, silk, hemp, indigo, and other articles of commercial import
ance. " The increase of revenue to the government from this source, might
alone form a sufficient inducement for the promotion of agricultural
interests; but to this may be added the increase of industry, health,
happiness, and comfort to the population generally, in case the lands
now lying without benefit to any one, should be brought into active
cultivation, by the labor of the natives. It will not only bring to
your ports ships of all nations, for the purpose of carrying away the
produce of your lands, but afford the natives generally the means of
procuring those manufactures of other countries, which will increase
their usefulness and knowledge; and which add so essentially to the
happiness of civilized nations.
" With regard to the imprisonment of American seamen, who have
been charged by the captains or officers of merchant vessels with
rautiny, and other offences of a serious character, I have to request
that as no authority is vested by the United States of America, in any
person which empowers him to punish Araerican citizens, you will be
careful, in every instance where such persons are placed in your cus
tody by the consul, that they are not in any manner ill treated, or
compelled to labour for the government, as I am informed has for
merly been the practice, but merely detained until an opportunity
occurs of sending them home for trial.
" I wish also to observe, that although as king of these islands you
have a right to make any particular religion the standing religion of
the land, you have not under the Treaty now existing between your
government and the United States, any right to expel from your land,
or prohibit from landing, any American citizen or citizens, whatever
may be his or their religious opinions, so long as they conform to your
laws; as in the United States, every person is at liberty under our
laws, to worship God in his own way, and every denomination, whe-

500 CAPTAIN stribling's LETTER TO. KINAU
ther Christian or Jew, is eligible to the highest office in the govern
ment., " The recognition of Mr. Paty's case, subsequent to our conference,
will prevent the necessity of any farther interference on my part; and
I have now only to express my best wishes for the welfare and pros
perity of yourself and the Sandwich Islands.
I have the honor to be.
Very respectfully.
Your obedient servant,
EDMUND P. KENNEDY.
Commanding the East India and Asiatic squadron."
" U. S. Ship Peacock, Honolulu, October, 1836.
"To Kinau, „
High Chief of Oahu,
&c. &c.
" I have thought a few remarks from me at this tirae would not be
unacceptable to you.' I have long felt the deepest interest in the hap
piness of the people over whom you preside as chief and governor.
" I visited these islands seven years ago, and was much gratified
with what I then saw. Your people had made considerable advances
in morals and religion; and I was particularly pleased with the zeal
and fidelity of the missionaries residing among your people. I then
hoped a few years more would see the Hawaiian people a christian
and civilized nation. I did hope, that as soon as the chiefs embraced
the christian religion, they would see the importance of elevating the
character and condition of the comraon people; and that they would
be induced to this course by motives of christian philanthropy, as Well
as by motives of worldly policy.
" It is remarked in all christian and highly civilized nations, that
the power and wealth of the rulers of every country increase with
the morality, intelligence and wealth of the commonalty; and it is
also remarked that the stability and permanency of the government
become more secure as the morality, religion and intelligence of the
mass of the people become general.
"From careful accounts which have been taken of the births and
deaths, it appears that the population of the islands is decreasing with
fearful rapidity. What is causing this decrease, I will not venture
to say; but I beg to suggest a few changes in the condition of the peo
ple, which, if adopted, will, I have no doubt, soon change the condi-

THE HIGH CHIEF OF OAHU. 501
tion of the nation, from its present depression to one of high pros
perity. " 1. A fixed and certain rent upon land.
" If the cultivators of the soil are satisfied, after paying a proper
rent to the owner of the land, in money or produce, that all the pro
duce left is their own, they will have an inducement to labor, which
does not at present exist.
" 2. Security for person and property.
" Unless tiie people are secure in the enjoyment of the fruits of their
labor, it will be in vain to attempt to improve their condition. No
man will work more than he is compelled to, without he has a rea
sonable security that he will be permitted to enjoy the fruits of his
labor, without fear of being deprived of his property by the chiefs or
the government.
" As the improvement of the islands is mainly dependent on trade,
every protection should be afforded to all foreign residents, as well
to their ships as goods, so long as they act correctly. They should
be permitted freely to buy, sell, or exchange any kind of property.
Nothing short of this, will be such a protection as will induce fo
reigners of property and respectability to remain on the islands.
" 3. An entire abrogation of aU compulsory labor.
" When the chiefs or government require work to be done, let the
laborers be paid the full market price for labor.
"4. Taxes. They should be equal throughout the islands, and so
moderate as not to distress the people. A poll tax, if possible,
should be avoided, for the rich and poor pay the same amount.
" The cultivation of cotton and coffee can be carried on without any
capital, and a ready sale for all that can be produced cannot be
doubted. Sugar-cane can also be cultivated by the small land holder;
but it requires a large capital to procure all the machinery required
to manufacture sugar from cane. It would therefore be well to en
courage and permit capitalists to have establishments on each of the
islands, similar to that of Messrs. Ladd & Co. on Kauai. It would
also be well to encourage the establishing of one or two cotton manu
factories. " By the adoption of measures like these, the wealth of the king
and chiefs would be vastiy increased, and the continuance of the go
vernment secured. The happiness of all would be promoted, and
the desire of your friends in all parts of the world would be accom
plished. " By adopting these few changes, which do not affect the right of the

502 CAPTAIN stribling's LETTER.
king or chiefs to the soil, or their jurisdiction over the people, a sti
mulus would be given to industry, which would in a few years
change the face of the country from barren wastes to fruitful fields
and smiling villages, teeming with a happy, prosperous and numerous
people. "If something be not done speedily, to bring about a salutary
change, I shall indulge the most gloomy reflections as to the conti
nuance of your race and nation.
" I regret that we cannot converse together, for there are some things
here suggested which I should like to explain raore fully.
"Excuse the freedom which I have taken in thus addressing you.
Your good and the good of your people are my only motive.
" That God may enable you and others in authority, to come to a
right and speedy determination in these important matters, is the
prayer of one, deeply and feelingly interested in your happiness, for
tirae and eternity.
" Permit me to close these remarks by subscribing myself your
friend and brother,
C. K. Stribling."

SKETCHES IN THE CALIFORNIAS.

HARBOR OF MONTB-REY. 505

CHAPTER XLVI.

SKETCHES IN CALIFORNIA.
October, 1836.
On the 26th of September the Enterprise sailed for Mazatlan,
accompanied by two American merchant vessels, bound to that
place. In compliance with the memorial of the Araerican residents, given
above, Coraraodore Kennedy determined to visit Upper California;
and on the 9th of October, sailed frora the harbor of Honolulu. We
did not lose sight of the island until the second day, when we en
countered a light gale frora the northward and westward. The wind
continued fresh from that quarter until the 24th, when after a passage
of fifteen days and seven hours, the ship anchored in the harbor of
Monte-rey, the capital of upper California. The passage was plea
sant. The thermometer fell gradually as we increased our latitude,
from 80° F. to 58° F.; and one morning, at Monte-rey, was as low as
49° F. To us this temperature was uncomfortably cold; but it operated
like a charm upon those on board who had been enfeebled by disease.
On approaching the coast we fell in with large beds of beautiful
sea-weed, which is occasionally met with in such heavy masses as to
impede a vessel's motions. The leaves are two or three feet long,
and two or three inches broad in the centre, and tapering towards
the end like the blades of Indian corn. They are of a yellowish
brown color, crimped like crape, and soft and velvety to the touch.
On the stem of each leaf there is attached an air vessel, joining it to
the stalk, which serves most effectually as a buoy.
The harbor of Monte-rey is situated in 36° 36' north latitude, and
121° 42' west longitude. It was discovered in tbe year 1602, and
was named in honor of Don Gaspar de ZuSiga, Conde de Monte-rey,
at that tirae Viceroy of Mexico. It is very large, open to the north
west, from which point a very considerable swell at times sets in to
64

506

MONTE-REY  TRADE — TREATY WITH MEXICO.

tlie anchorage. The water is deep, and ships usually anchor in about
ten fathoms close tO the shore. The land around the bay is high
and covered by a growth of pine trees, which circumstance has
given name to the southern point of the harbor — Punta de Pinos.
The town is a scattering village, containing not more than five
hundred inhabitants, among whom are fifteen or twenty foreigners,
Americans and Englishmen, engaged in trade, which chiefly consists
in exchanging European goods for hides and tallow. The hides are
purchased at one dollar and a half each, in cash, or at two dollars in
goods, and are sent to the United States. Tallow is at one dollar
the quintal, (100 lbs.,) and is disposed of in the Lima market.
We found four merchant vessels and two whale ships, all Ameri
can, in the harbor. One of them had been, for some months, going
from port to port, on the coast, collecting hides and depositing them
at Santa Barbara, where they are prepared by salting, &c., and
thence shipped to the United States.
The trade is so closely connected with that of the Russian settle
ments on the north-west coast of America, that no estimate of its
value at Monte-rey alone can be easily made. There may be frora
six to eight Araerican vessels on the coast, every year, which visit
San Francisco, Monte-rey, Santa Barbara, and sorae other ports in
Upper California, and exchange goods in each for hides and tallow,
and, occasionally, a few beaver and otter skins. They sometimes
convey horses and bullocks to the Sandwich and Society Islands.
Our trade with Mexico, at least on the west coast, is much op
pressed by the heavy charges to which it is subject. Besides duties
on their cargoes, amounting almost to a prohibition on sorae articles,
ships are charged an anchorage fee, no matter under what circum
stances they may enter a port, of seventeen reals ($2,125) a ton,
amounting to $637,50 on a ship of three hundred tons. It is true,
after paying this sum, a vessel may go from port to port, in Upper
California, as often as may be found desirable, without paying any
additional anchorage fee, on exhibiting her register, countersigned by
the captain of the port she may have left last.
Our treaty with Mexico is on a footing with the most favored na
tion. It requires revision and correction in several particulars. In
one point of this instrument the Mexican diplomatists have been an
over-match both for the American Charg^ and the British Envoy,
possibly owing to a want ofa critical knowledge of the Spanish lan
guage on the part of those gentiemen.
It has been a usual, and but too frequent practice of the Mexican

UPPER CALIFORNIA  MISSIONS. 507
government, when in want of funds, to e.xact heavy loans from fo
reign merchants residing in the country; which are seldom, or never,
repaid. To relieve them from such an oppression, the diplomatist
negotiated an article, which, in English, exempts them entirely from
forced loans; but the Spanish reading implies that American mer
chants shall not be selected or distinguished from Mexican mer
chants, and alone forced to loan money to the government; but they
shall be subject to the same contingencies equally with them.
Upper California possesses a fertile soil and a good cliraate. Its
population is very ranch scattered, and consists almost entirely of
native Indians, whose numbers are supposed not to exceed ten thou
sand. They cultivate a few vegetables, but obtain their chief sub
sistence by the chase. They associate in tribes, or bands, of one or
two hundred, seldom in greater numbers, because larger companies
cannot readily supply themselves with sufficient game, within the
extent of a day's hunt. They plunder the farms of the colonists of
horses, which they eat in preference to beef, though horned cattie
are more abundant: this fact contradicts the assertion of Professor
Kidd, that po people eat horse flesh through preference.
Not long after the Spanish conquest, these Indians became objects
of solicitude with the fathers of the church, and they soon established
mission stations for their conversion to Christianity. The Indians
were caught, and carried to the church, vi ef armis, and baptized,
and thenceforward distinguished as rational people — gente de razon.
But, feeling little confidence in the controlling influence of baptism
over their erratic habits, the priests usually kept them prisoners until
they acquired some handicraft, and in this way some few were ci
vilized. At this tirae there are twenty-one missions in Upper California,
all of which are in a state of decay. I visited that at Cormelo, which
I found in ruins, and alraost abandoned. It is about four miles from
Monte- rey. The road to it is easy, and agreeably varied by hill and
dale, every where covered by pine and other forest trees, and re
markably free frora undergrowth.
The mission building is, perhaps, a hundred yards square, one
story high, and roofed with tiles. We rode through the gate, which
was just ready to fall from its hinges, into the great central court,
round which it is built, where we found eight or ten Indians engaged
in repairing the roof. They informed us that the Padre was at the
presidio, or garrison, and that there was no one to show us the
church, which, exteriorly, was in a dilapidated state. All the win-

508 GOVERNMENT.
dows opened in upon the court, and were heavily barred with iron,
with the design of preventing the escape of the christian neophytes,
who were locked up at night in apartments to which these windows
give light and air. Sorae of those were open. They were strewed
with rubbish and filth, and, altogether, in a worse condition than the
coramonest stable should be.
The vicinity of Monte-rey, and, indeed, all Upper California,
abound in game, rabbits, hares, squirrels, quails, snipe, ducks, &c.;
and bears and deer are shot within a few miles of the town. While
here, our tables were well supplied, as our chief amuseraent consisted
in sport. The bay abounds in excellent fish, and a variety of shells
are found upon its shores. A large species of haliotis, the internal
nacre of which is beautifully iridescent, abounds: the aniraal is eaten,
but, unless great pains be taken to beat it well, before cooking, it is
tough and unpalatable. It forms, occasionally, a large black pearl,
which is, by some persons, much admired.
The governraent of Upper California is, at present, administered
by Lieutenant Colonel Don Nicolas Gutierrez. Don Nicolas resides
at the presidio, or garrison, where he commands, withoyut other as
sistance than that of a major of artillery, a captain and a lieutenant
of infantry, and one or two corporals, fourteen men, and two field
pieces. At the time of our visit they were nightly on guard, expect
ing an attack from some disaffected rancheros (farmers) and Indians.
The day after our arrival we saluted the place, which was regularly
acknowledged from the garrison. The whole military force of Up
per California does not exceed one hundred and fifty men.
The judiciary consists of a Juez de Distrito (District Judge) and
a number of Alcaldes. From the unsettled state of this part of the
country, as well as all Mexico, these worthy dispensers of justice
are not unfrequently seen upon the bench with a brace of pistols and
a sword before them, instead of a mace, as badges of office. Of their
intelligence not much can be said, but an idea of it may be gathered
from the following case.
Two common men, one named Juan and the other Pedro, had a
difference. Juan lodged a complaint that he had loaned to Pedro a
sura of money, some tirae before, but could not persuade him to pay
it, though he was passing rich in flocks, and horses, and oxen. After
a little deliberation, the Alcalde declared that Pedro raust and should
pay the money, even if he forced him to sell his cattle. Accordingly,
Pedro was summoned to the presence of the man of law, when Juan
again stated the case, and appealed to Pedro for the truth of what he
had said, which was readily acknowledged.

JUDICIARY. 509
" Then," said the Alcalde, " since you owe this debt, why do you
not pay it?"
" Because, Senor," replied Pedro, " I have no money."
" But," interrupted Juan, " tienes tu una manada, caballos, buyes
y cuanto hai — thou hast a flock, horses, oxen, and every thing."
" Well said, Juan," exclaimed the Alcalde, " and he shall sell
them and pay the debt, or I will teach him what is law, and what is
justice." " Vuestra Merced, Senor, es un horabre de bien y sabio — your
worship is an honest ahd a wise man," said Juan, with a bow.
Pedro looked a little puzzled at this decision, and after twirling
his hat a moment, bowed, and said, " Puez Senor, con licencia, una
palabra — But, sir, a word by your leave; "then, turning to Juan,
continued," ^ Puez Juan, me presteis a mi el dinero, 6 lo presteis a
mis buyes, 6 mis caballos, 6 a mi manada? — Well, Juan, didst thou
lend the money to me, or didst thou lend it to my oxen, or to my
horses, or to my flock?"
" I lent it to you, Pedro."
" Thou sayest well; if you lent the money to me, then, of course,
I am responsible, and I must pay; but if thou didst lend it to my
oxen, or to my horses, or to my flock, it is clear, they are responsi
ble, and they must pay;" and as he finished the argument, he
turned triumphantly to the Alcalde, looking as if it were unanswer
able. The worthy magistrate had listened attentively, and after a few
moments' pause, reversed his decision; showing, that with him at
least, a sense of right and wrong was not innate. He drew himself
up, and said with much gravity, " Pedro, tu tienes razon, y no se
puede vender sus bienes — Pedro, thou art right, and thy property
cannot be sold."
" And what then am I to do?" asked Juan.
" Wait," said Pedro, " till I get money to pay you."
" That is all can be done according to law in the case," said the
Alcalde, and dismissed the parties.
This Alcalde may be paralleled with the Delaware judge, who,
having listened only to one half the case, was about to pronounce
sentence, when he was interrupted by the counsel for the defendant,
exclaiming, "But your Honor has not heard the other side of the
question!" " Nor do I mean to hear it, for when I hear both sides of a case,

510 AMERICAN TRAPPERS.
it always puzzles me, and I am not able to pronounce the sentence
half so well."
While at Monte-rey, the ship was visited by several trappers or
fur hunters of the ' far west.' Those who came on board were from
Tennessee, and had never seen a ship nor salt water until they be
held the North Pacific Ocean.
Arraed with rifles and their traps, these daring sons of the forest,
leave the western frontier, in bands not exceeding twenty or thirty,
mounted on mules, for the reason that horses are found to be inca
pable of bearing the fatigues of the journey. They travel across the
vast prairie lands of the west to Santa Fe, and thence to Upper Cali
fornia, trapping beavers wherever they find them.
In their marches they often meet with tribes of unfriendly Indians,
and almost as often have rencontres, which usually end fatally to
sorae of the parties. The Indians invariably scalp those whom they
kill; and the trappers often imitate this barbarous custom of savage
warfare. We asked a Tennessean trapper whether he had ever
killed an Indian?
" Ay, many a one."
" Did you always scalp them?"
" No. I never could do that, because when I have killed a man,
I think I have troubled him enough, and I don't like to disturb him
after that!"
On their march the trappers often separate, and are alone in those
unfrequented wilds, for one, two or more days together, with no
other protection, or means of obtaining food than the rifle, without
which they never move any where, even to the shortest distance
from their camps, which are usually so appointed that they may be
readily found. A trapper does not like to stroll alone from the
camp, more than thirty or forty miles; because, said my informant,
" he might find himself surprised by them Indian Devils." On
these occasions, they never think of sleeping without shoes or moc
casins; and the rifle always reposes beside thera. Whenever a trap
per is surprised thus alone, by a party of Indians, " he makes for the
bush, and shoots the first Indian that approaches, and then shifts
his hiding-place."
" But do they not follow into the bush?"
" No, the devils dar'n't, because they know there's a rifle in the
bush," said the trapper with a knowing smile, " and I guess one of
us would be afeard to go in the bush, when one knows there's a rifle
in there."

AMERICAN TRAPPERS. 511
" Do you never take any provision with you, when leaving the
camp alone?
" No, what does a man want better to feed himself with than a ri
fle?' His companions would laugh, if he carried provisions from the
camp." Our informer stated, that he had been twice from Tennessee to
Monte-rey, and ' the travel ' was made in about two years. During
their journeys they live chiefly on buffalo-beef, and venison, which
they eat without either bread or salt. They very soon learn to do
without salt, and seldom think it a privation. And what is very re
markable, this man said, he had never known an instance of sickness
among the trappers, though they soraetiraes quarrelled and shot each
other. So accustomed are they to the open air, and so uncomforta
ble do they find themselves in a closed atraosphere, that one who went
by sea from Monte-rey to San Francisco could not be induced to stay
in the cabin of the ship upon which he had embarked, " What," said
he, looking down the companion-way; " What ! go down into that hole;
I should sraother to death!" He slept on deck, using no other bed
ding than a blanket, and no other pillow than his arm.
This passenger was loath to believe, that each rope composing the
rigging, to him a confused mass, had its respective name, and ap
pealed to the comraander to ascertain the truth; — " I say, Capting,
your mate tells me you have names for all these here ropes?" and
and when told that such was the case, he declared, " it beat all na
tur." The rifles used by the trappers are of the calibre carrying thirty balls
to the pound. The accuracy with which they shoot is the admiration
of all, except those who, like themselves, are reared with rifles always
in their hands, and taught to look upon this weapon as a source of
profit, of defence and offence, as well as of amusement. One of them,
premising, that he was not considered a shot either by himself or his
companions, offered a bet, that he would strike a dollar at a hundred
yards without once missing, for as many shots as we might please,
adding, " and make the bet worth consideration, and I will shoot all
day." By way of contrast, I may mention an individual whose education
and general notions had been drawn entirely frora the ocean. I was
introduced to an old man named Captain Smith. He had left his na
tive town of Norfolk, Va. when a boy, in the year 1777, while the
British,flag still floated in the harbor. He doubled cape Horn, and
remained in the Pacific Ocean, cruising among the islands, and on

512 CAPTAIN SMITH.
the north-west coast, until 1833, when, after an absence of fifty-
five years, he returned to his native land. The old man visited Nor
folk, but was filled with melancholy to find every thing sO changed;
the relations and friends of his youth had disappeared, and he recog
nised nothing but a small wooden bridge which was fast falling to
•decay. His feelings did not allow him to remain. He visited seve
ral of the large cities, and again returned to the Pacific. Though too
•old to command, he continues to go to sea as passenger from port to
port, now among the islands, and now on the north-west coast, and
«ntertains his friends with stories of his voyages. He recollects Van-
¦couver distinctly, and mentioned, that at San Francisco the Indians
¦used to gather round his ship to see, if possible, the punishraents
which Vancouver daily inflicted upon his men. " He served out ten
¦or twelve dozen every morning at the gangway."
I remarked, I should have supposed a man who had been so much
¦at sea would, in his old age, prefer to sit down quietly on shore to
spend the remainder of his days. "No, no, sir," he replied, "it
would kill any man to live always on shore; he must have a brush at
•sea once in a while to keep his timbers from rotting."
It was mentioned in the old man's hearing, that the Catholic mis
sionaries who had been expelled from the Sandwich Islands, were
at Monte-rey, and anxious to obtain a passage to Oahu, in the hope
¦of finding there an opportunity of proceeding to the Gambler Isl
ands, where there is a Catholic mission. "Well," said Captain
Smith, "they will cause more trouble, I suppose. The two worst
things, and the two things most difficult to understand and manage,
which have come in my way, are a missionary and a California
saddle; you can't get along with either of them without getting
rubbed." On the SOth, the Coraraodore having done all that was necessary in
relation to the subjects of coraplaints under existing circumstances,
we got under way. An almost impenetrable fog overhung the har
bor nearly all day, and it was late before we got fairly at sea. Our
course lay to the southward, along the coast of Lower California, in
order to have the advantage of the. land and sea breezes.
Previous to sailing, the following letter, expressing the thanks of
several American citizens for his kind interference, was addressed
to Commodore Kennedy.

letter to commodore kenned 1'. 513
" Monte-rey, Upper California, ;
October, 28th, 1836.
Sir,—
" We the undersigned American Residents, Masters and Supercar
goes of Anierican vessels in Monte-rey, desire to return to you their
humble and grateful thanks for the lively interest you have been
pleased to manifest for our commerce on this coast, and that on the
representations of a number of residents and others at the Sand
wich Islands, you have been pleased to enter this port for the pro
tection of our interests.
" We trust that we sufficiently appreciate the value to us of this
visit so highly important to our affairs, and of the increased security
we shall feel by your regard to our welfare.
" The appearance of a U. S. ship of war on this coast, after so long
an interval, and after so long an intercourse between our vessels
and this territory, has been highly salutary, and perrait us to say,
that we heartily and sincerely thank you.
" May the remainder of your cruise be pleasant, and your return to
the United States all you could desire.
Respectfully yours,
Nathan Spear. John Meek.
F. D. Atherton. Thos. a. Norton.
Thos. 0. Larkin. a. G. Tomlinson,
Josiah Thompson. Jno. H. Everett.
Wm. L. Hinckley. Edwd. H. Fauoon,,
Wm. M. Warren. Jos. Carter.
William French."
To Commodore Edmund P. Kennedy, -
Commanding East India Station,
Si Ship Peacock.

edy, t
..u.j

65

514 historical sketch

CHAPTER XL Vir.
SKETCHES IN THE CALIFORNIAS.
November, 185(5.
Upper California is but littie known. It extends from the forty-
second parallel of north latitude as far south as San Diego, Lat. 32°
39', N., and possesses a coast of five hundred and sixty-one miles.
Its breadth is not defined. Lower California includes from the
parallel of San Diego, all the peninsula which forms the gulf of Cali
fornia, or, as it is sometimes called by the old Spanish historians, the
Red Sea of Cortes. The southern cape of the peninsula is San
Lucas, situated on the parallel of 22° 44' north latitude, and on the
meridian of 109° 54' west from Greenwich.
This country is named Upon the ancient maps, New Albion, Caro
line Islands, and California. The last is the most ancient, and that
which it still retains. For the name of New Albion, the country is
indebted to Sir Francis Drake, who visited it in 1577, while perform
ing his second voyage round the world. The name of Islas- Caro
linas or Caroline Isles was bestowed a hundred years afterwards in
compliment to the king of Spain, Don Carlos the Second, because it
was generally believed, until the year 1700, that California was one
of a group of islands. At that period the Padre Eusebio Francisco
Kino, a Jesuit missionary, discovered in one of his laborious excur
sions, that it is a peninsula.
Under the belief that California was a large island of a group, it
was spoken of in the plural; but the name, Californias now includes
the two divisions known as Uppei; and Lower California.*
" Delighted would I be," says the Padre Venegas, "to inform the
• Noticia de la CaUfomia y de su conquista temporal y espiritual hasta el
tiempo presente. Sacada de la historia manuscrita, formada en Mexico, aiio de
1739; por el Padra Miguel Venegas, 8^c. Madrid, 1757.

OF the californias. 515
curious, the origin and etymology of a name, which either from the
extravagance of its sound, or the echo of real misfortune, or the fame
of wealth, has become memorable in New Spain, and even in Europe.
But I can only declare, that in no one of the native languages could
the missionaries discover that any similar name is given to the land,
nor to any bay, harbor or place in it. Yet I cannot adopt the ety
mology which sorae would assign, supposing the name was given by
the Spaniards, who, experiencing, as is affirmed, an extraordinary
heat on their first entry, called the country California from the Latin
words, calida fornax — hot oven. I fear, however, that few will be
disposed to accord so much grace in learning to the conquerors; and
although Bernal Diaz del Castillo does not deny to Cortes the rare
accomplishments among his companions of being a Latinist, a poet,
and a bachelor in laws, we do not find that either he or his captains
were in the habit of naming their discoveries after this plan. I
judge, therefore, that this name had its origin in sorae accident, as
might very well happen, such as araong others, the words of the In
dians badly comprehended by the Spaniards, as occurred in the name
of Peru."
About the year 1522, after Montezuma had succumbed to the
prowess of his arms and art, Hernan Cortes heard that the land ter
minated not far off, and did not doubt, but the great South Sea
which washed its shores, led by a short route to the Spice Islands of
the East, a great object of the adventure and enterprise of the times.
He at once directed the building of two caravels and two brigs, and
caused the sails, rigging, pitch, anchors, and all the n-ecessary appa
ratus for ships, to be transported over land from Vera Cruz, a dis
tance of two hundred leagues to Zacatula, w'here every thing perish
able was lost in a conflagration. But this misfortune could not turn
from its purpose the energetic mind of the conqueror of Mexico.
Accordingly, we find him vvriting from Temixtitan, or Mexico, on
the 15'tii October, 1524, informing the Emperor Charies V., that he
had already vessels constructed in the South Sea, which he designed
to send in the month of July, of that year, to examine the coasts,
north and south, with a hope of discovering the Strait of Magellan.
At the same time he despatched vessels to examine the eastern coast
of Mexico from Panuco to Florida.^
Two or three expeditions proved to be failures from a want of har-_
mony among the officers, and in one vessel the commander, Becerra,
* Cartas de Cortes, in Barcia's Collection.

516 CORTEs' EXPEDITION TO CALIFORNIA.
was murdered by the pilot Ortun Ximenez., Afterwards the vessel
reached a bay called Santa Cruz, supposed to be in the gulf of Cali
fornia, where Ximenez and twenty other Spaniards were killed by
the natives. The sailors returned with the vessel to Chiaraetla, an
nouncing a populous land whose shores abounded in beds of glitter
ing pearls.
Firraly persuaded in his opinion, that the Moluccas were not far
distant from the western coast of Mexico, and between it and those
he raust discover rich islands and fertile lands, he resolved to make,
in spite of all his misfortunes, a last atterapt, but no longer to con
fide the enterprise to his captains. He announced his intended ex
pedition, and immediately crowds of Spaniards flocked to his stand
ard to follow the great conqueror. He directed three vessels which
had been launched at Tehuantepec, to be armed and fitted, in a style
which showed that he was to command. He ordered them to Chia-
metla and went thither himself by land, accompanied by soldiers,
clergymen and emigrants with their families. The vessels arrived
at Chiaraetla, and that cf Ortun Ximenez, which was found upon the
coast stripped of every thing, was also fitted. Cortes erabarked witii
as raany people as the vessels would contain, leaving the reraainder
in charge of Andres de Tapia. He directed his course to the north-
yard, and entered the gulf, which was called the Sea of Cortes, and
sought the place where the Indians had killed Ortun Xiraenez, and
landed on the first day of May, 1536. He naraed it Santa Cruz,
and it is supposed to be the same known now as La Paz. He ordered
the vessels back for those who had been left behind at Chiametia, aud
they arrived after much suffering, almost exhausted from hunger, and
found the soldiers in little better condition, as the country presented
a steril and ungrateful soil, yielding nothing for tlie sustenance of
man. In such a strait Cortes did not long hesitate which course to
adopt, but at once set sail in search of some who had been lost, and
says Gomarra, crossing the sea, run down fifty leagues of its coast.
After encountering many obstacles he found those whom he sought,
and returned, after innumerable difficulties to the aid of the bay of
Santa Cruz, where he found some had already perished of famine,
and many dieil alter his arrival from over-eating. Then, says Bernal
Diaz del Castillo, to avoid the sight of so much misery, Cortes set
out in search of other lands.
In the mean time it was rumored in New Spain, that Cortes had
been murdered, and it M'as said, tiiat all the Mexican Caciques in
tended to rebel, as his presence alone kept them in subjection. The

OONqUEST OF CALIFORNIA. 517
Marquesa Dona Juana de Zuiiiga, daughter of the Conde de Aguilar,
niece of the Duke of Bejur and second wife of Cortes, despatched a
caravel in search of him, and a request that he would return. Imme
diately afterwards she sent two other vessels with letters, from her
self, the Audiencia and the Viceroy Don Antonio Mendoza, in which
they set forth the necessity of his presence in New Spain, as well
for its tranquillity and good government, as to send the necessary
succor, demanded by Francisco Pizarro, frora Lima, where he was
surrounded by innumerable hostile Indians. They besought him and
even ordered him to return, which Cortes himself desired, for he Was
weary with contending in vain against sea and land, convinced, in
spite of himself, that the great soldier on land cannot be the sarae
also at sea. Perhaps he rejoiced to have so honorable a motive for
abandoning an enterprise in which he had staked his credit, and re
turned to Acapulco in the beginning of the year 1537. He left
Francisco Ulloa in charge of the people at Santa Cruz, who, seeing
that it was impossible to colonize or even maintain theraselves in the
country, soon deserted and also returned to Acapulco.
In May, 1537, Cortes sent three vessels under the command of
Francisco Ulloa, to follow up the coast. They proceeded as far up
the gulf as 32° N. latitude; and returned, having seen nothing but
barren hills and an inhospitable waste. In these fruitiess expeditions
the Viceroy expended no less than 200,000 ducats.
In spite of fadures and innumerable misfortunes, the spirit of ad
venture and the hope of wealth kept up for nearly two centuries a
succession of enterprises for discovery and conquest in California.
Cortes employed all his talents and energies on several occasions;
many private individuals followed his example; governors, admirals
and viceroys were enlisted, and even the crown of Spain was finally
drawn into preparing expeditions for the sarae purpose, but they all
resulted in nothing.
At the close of the seventeenth century, the Jesuit raissionaries
determined upon the spiritual conquest of a land, which had so long
and so effectually resisted the temporal power. Accordingly, after
several years of preparation, in obtaining a license from the crown,
two padres with a small escort set sad and landed in California on
the 10th of October, 1697, a little to the northward of Loreto. After
a long and painful endurance of privation and numerous strifes with
the Indians, they succeeded in establishing two or three mission
stations, which in the course of time became raore numerous, and
spread over the whole country, and at the time of the South Ameri-

518 LOWER CALIFORNI'A.
can revolution might be considered in a tolerably flourishing condi
tion; but that event has paralyzed the efforts of the .church, and the
missions are almost altogether abandoned.
Lower California is very thinly peopled. The soil is steril, and
badly watered, and no mines of importance have as yet been disco
vered. Its coramerce is next to nothing. A few small craft visit San
Lucas and La Paz, but they obtain very little; even the water found
at these ports is brackish and unwholesome.
On one occasion a missionary chided the Indians fer their miscon
duct at mass, threatening them with the flames of hell, which he de
picted in glowing language. To all this, one of the Indians re
marked, that hell must be a well wooded country to keep so great a
fire; and in this respect, at least, a far more desirable land than Cali
fornia. * • Noticia de California, por el padre Migfuel Venegas,

SKETCHES IN MEXICO.

MAZATLAN. 521

CHAPTER XLVIII.

SKETCHES IN MEXICO.
November, 1836.
On the 12th of November, we anchored in the roads of Mazatlan,
Lat. 23° 10', N. Long. 106° 21' W.*
The anchorage is about a mile and a half from the town, in an open
roadstead which is obnoxious to gales from the south-east, from June
until December. The rainy season sets in about the month of June,
and continues through July, August, and September, and sometimes
October, during which period it is very unhealthy, particularly at the
close of the rains, when the sun shines upon the low plains and swamps
of the neighborhood. At this season, all those whose circumstances
permit, retreat from Mazatlan to the mountainous regions of the in
terior. For this reason the population fluctuates from two to seven
thousand. There were two Mexican schooners of war in the roads, their co
lors at half mast in token of the nation's sorrow and sympathy for
the discomfiture and imprisonment of General Santa Anna, in Tex
as. But as far as we could ascertain, the General is very unpopular
in all this section of Mexico.
We learned that Captain Hollins, in the Enterprise, arrived here
on the 29th of October, and had sailed on the sixth of November,
for the port of Guaymas, up the gulf of California, in pursuance of
the recommendation of the following letter, thinking that he would
be able to return before our arrival at this place. But after contend-
• This part of the coast is very inaccurately laid down on the charts. The la
titude above given is not far from the truth, though the chart places it in 23°
18'. 66

522 MAZATLAN.
ing several days against the wind, which blew strongly down thegulf,
he was compelled to return, but did not reach the anchorage before
our departure. " CONSULTATE OF THE U. S. OF AmERICA,
Port of Mazatian, October 29, 1836.
Sir,
" The arrival of the U. States Schooner Enterprise, under your cora-
mand, affords me an opportunity that has long been wanting, to re
commend to you the propriety of extending your visit to the port of
Guaymas, where the flag of none of our vessels of war has ever yet
been seen, and where there is a field gradually opening to the com
merce and manufactures of the country.
"I avail myself of this occasion, to express to you the great plea
sure which your arrival in this port has afforded us, and to hope that
henceforth the visits of our national vessels will not be so few and
far between. [ have the honor to remain.
With sentiments of respect and esteem.
Your most obedient servant,
Samuel W. Talbot,
Acting Consul, U. S. of America.
To Capt. George N. Hollins,
U. S. Schooner Enterprise."
Though we find Mazatlan mentioned by writers more than a hun
dred years ago, its commercial importance dates its origin only about
twelve years back. It is built upon a sandy plain, broken by small
lagoons, and sheltered on the north by a high hill. It is situated on
the margin of a pretty bay, which abounds in fish; but is rendered
inaccessible except to very small vessels, by a sand bar which
stretches entirely across its entrance, and upon which, in gales, the
sea breaks violently.
The houses are all white, one story high, and built of adobes. The
style of architecture is that which is common in' all parts of Spanish
America. A large proportion of the inhabitants are lodged in straw
cabins, and live alraost without what we consider the comraon ne
cessaries of life. Water is not easily procurable for ships, and fruit
and vegetables are extreraely scarce; pumpkins, beans and bananas
are the only things of the sort found in the market.

trade  A CONSULTATION. 523
^ Since the year 1824 or 1825, a very lucrative trade has been car
ried on at Mazatlan in American and European goods, which are
consumed by the inhabitants of the departments of Cinaloa and So
nora, who are chiefly miners. The only exports are silver in bul
lion and a sraall quantity of Brazil wood.
We found two American merchants established in this miserable
spot, and during our stay we had every reason to be gratified by the
hospitable attentions extended to us. Eariy on a Sunday morning,
the day after our arrival, one of these gentiemen sent on board to
request me to visit a lady who v/as dangerously ill, and whose case
admitted of no delay. I accompanied the messenger on shore and
to the house of the patient. I was received by the family in the
drawing-room, and at their request read a short statement of the
case, which had been prepared by the attending physician. From
it, I at once decided in my mind, that the lady, a sister-in-law of a
distinguished Mexican General, must be in a very critical situation,
if not beyond the art of medicine. She was young and handsome,
the idol of her friends, and had been married scarcely a year. After
reading the statement, which was in itself enough to convict the
writer of gross mal-practice, I was requested to see the patient.
I followed to a door, which, on knocking gently, was opened just
wide enough for a young man to pass out his head. On perceiving
me, he opened it, and admitted me; but turned away the patient's
sister, who had been my conductor. At first, I could scarcely see
where I was, and some moments elapsed before I had gained my
sight. I then found myself in a closed room, dimly lighted by a
slender tallow candle. I was seated with the doctor near a hand
somely curtained bed. At the opposite end of the apartment, two or
three females, probably neighbors, were speaking very cheerfully in
loud whispers.
After taking two or three hearty puffs at his cigar, as if to ensure
its inflammation while talking, the doctor began; " Puez Senor,
esta SeSora — Well, sir, this lady;" and went on to state in prolix
detail, that his patient, who had been en cinta for eight months, was
attacked four or five days previously, with ague and fever, and, see
ing no other possible means of relieving her of the disease, he had
resorted to mechanical means and provoked parturition. This part
of the treatment had been easily accomplished, but por acaso — by
chance, the fever became remittent, and then continued, accompa
nied by mania and convulsions. When he concluded the histoi'y
I inquired, " Well, sir, how is the lady now?"

524 PROGNOSIS.
" Puez Hombre! ya se ha muerto dos horas, en unas convulsiones
espantables — ^Why, man! she died two hours ago, in frightful con
vulsions." " The family does not know it?"
" No, Senor, and I do not intend to tell them yet."
I was silent in astonishment. As the doctor ceased speaking, he
rose and requested me to look for myself. I followed to the bed.
He raised the curtain, and with perfect sang froid filliped the nose
of his late patient. I beheld the body of the deceased, bearing evi
dent signs ofa violent death. The arms had been blistered from the
wrists to the shoulders, and the doctor declared that he had applied
blisters wherever he could possibly place them; "but as you see, Se
nor, it was no use," shrugging his shoulders, drawing down the cor
ners of his mouth, and throwing his head to one side, by which pecu
liar gestnre he designed to say he had done his best, and there was
no help.
He then stated, that in order to spare the family the shock which
they must experience, to be suddenly informed of thf lady's death,
he wished to impart to them the sad intelligence by degrees. I was
too much disgusted to speak; but left the apartment, followed by the
professional man. The family av/aited us in the drawing-room, and
by looks rather than words, inquired my opinion. I could only re
gret I had arrived at too late a period to be of any service.
" It is my opinion," interrupted the doctor, " that there is no hope
— indeed, the disease has reached a crisis. You see there was,
(counting on his fingers) first, intermittent fever, then remittent fe
ver, then continued fever, upon which supervened gastritis, enteritis,
hepatitis, peritonitis and a nervous grade of typhus fever, for which
the most active stimulants were indicated. This you know, Senor, is
a critical day, the ninth, and it is my settled opinion that she must
die precisely at eleven o'clock — a las once en punto. — " It was
then nine. I said not a word, but took my leave, filled with disgust
and indignation at the barefaced ignorance, and knavish effrontery
practised before rae.
The prognostic of the doctor, very much to his credit, of course
proved true; and about twelve o'clock, invitations were issued to at
tend the funeral, to take place at sunset the same day. About five
o'clock, P. M. a nuraber of gentlemen, all neatly dressed in black,
gathered in front of the house, each one arraed with a spermaceti
candle. At the appointed hour the body was placed upon a bedstead, very

FUNERAL. 525
tastefully ornaraented with black pluraes, flowers and white lace,
and borne on raen's shoulders to the place of interment, preceded by
a large company of gentlemen, but no ladies. They formed a single
file on each side of the street, each bearing a candle, which was now
lighted. The burial ground was half a mile distant. It was just
sunset. No priest was present to perform the service of the dead,
and it is very remarkable, that in a catholic town, where the popula
tion was estimated at four thousand, there is neither priest nor church.
The remains of the lady were deposited in solemn silence on a hill
side, and after the grave was filled up, the company dispersed.
The Sabbath is in no manner observed at Mazatlan, unless it be
that the evening is devoted to the fandango, which is publicly danced
beneath a shed in the suburbs, where most of the population resort.
The ground is covered by tables of bon-bons, illuminated by paper
lanterns; and what with music, and lights, and dancing, the scene is
not wanting either in mirth or interest.
P. S. Since the above was written, the ports of Huatulco Manza-
nilla, Natividad, Mazatlan, La Paz, Loreto, San Diego, and San
Francisco have been closed to foreign comraerce, by a decree of the
Mexican government, to take effect six months after March 2nd, 1837.

CHAPTER XLIX.
SKETCHES IN MEXICO.
November, 1836.
At sunset, on the 15th of November, the Peacock got under way;
and on the 1 8th, at half past eight o'clock A. M., anchored in the
roads of San Bias, situated in latitude 21° 30' north, and 104° 50'
west longitude.
At this point the coast forms a deep bend or cove, but in extent
too great to give much shelter to the anchorage, which at certain
seasons is considered unsafe. The shore, as far as the eye can reach
along the coast, presents a plain, varying from ten to fifteen miles in

526 SAN BLAS.
breadth, and extending between a point a little to the southward of
Mazatlan to cape Corrientes, a distance of nearly two hundred and
fifty miles. A chain of mountains, averaging four thousand feet high,
forms the limits of the plain on the east, while the west is laved by
the waters of the Pacific. It is covered by a luxuriant vegetation
and a variety of trees; and throughout its extent is watered by nu
merous rivers, the largest called Santiago, which take their rise in
the mountains above alluded to. In many places near the sea, the
flooding tide permeates the loose sandy sod, and, rising to the surface,
forms marshes and lagoons, which, under a tropical sun, become
fruitful sources of miasmatic exhalations. Accordingly, we find,
at the conclusion of the rainy season, which is from June until Octo
ber, that intermittents, dysentery and typhoid fevers prevail to a
great extent, and San Bias is almost entirely deserted.
The town of San Bias is hidden from the anchorage in a forest of
closely growing trees. It is situated about two hundred yards from
the landing, which is up a strait or sound, a quarter of a mile frora
the sea. The houses are generally mean, cheerless huts, and the
streets are narrow and sandy. Its population seldom exceeds one
thousand souls.
The view from the ship is pleasant; the leafy green of the plain,
bounded by long white sand beaches, broken occasionally by rocky
hills, riang from the surface, and the mountains in the back ground,
half concealed in vapory clouds, form a scene far more cheerful than
that at Mazatlan.
The shores abound in a great variety of beautiful shells. The
Venus dione is found in great numbers; and the coramon people, as
well as some intelligent foreigners, state that they are found in
greater abundance in some seasons than in others. Of this fact
there seems to be little question; and we might infer therefrom that
they are migratory in their habits and resort to the shores for the
purpose of procreation.
The commerce of the place, being the chief port of the department
of Guadalaxara, which contains a large population, is considerable.
Its exports consist entirely of bullion, which is smuggled on board
of English men-of-war, one visiting the port yearly about the raonth
of February for the purpose.
In the prosperous days of the Mexican viceroys, San Bias, known
in early tiraes, probably, as the port of Xalisco, was of considerable
importance. It had a dock-yard, and arsenals provided with stores
for building and refitting vessels, the ruins of which establishment

RIDE TO TEPlC. 527
are still seen. But it was not until after the commencement of the
revolution of Mexico that it enjoyed any commercial consideration.
AVhen Vera Cruz and the Atiantic ports were in the power of the
Spaniards, in order to supply themselves with foreign productions,
the patriots opened a trade from Chagres and Porto Bello over land to
Panama, and thence to San Bias, whence goods were transported to
Topic, Guadalaxara, Mexico, and indeed throughout the Republic.
This over land commerce was expensive, and in order to lessen the
cost of goods to the consumer, the ports of Mazatlan and Guaymas
were resorted to by many vessels. But as the state of things which
led to this indirect commerce no longer exists, the value and extent
of the trade have dwindled away, because the population of the dis
tricts of Mexico bordering the Pacific is too small, too poor and too
little refined to consume any considerable supplies, brought direct
from India and China, or around Cape Horn. Two or three entire
cargoes a year would probably supply the demand: more than this
would scarcely yield a profit.
One of the objects of our visit to San Bias, was to land an officer
who had been long in ill health. He was too feeble to sit a horse or
mule, and it was therefore necessary that he should be transported
to Topic in a litter. After some little difficulty, we mustered twelve
men, who agreed to carry the litter for one hundred and eight dol
lars: though they were then idle, and usually worked for less than a
dollar a day, they thought nine times this sum was small compensa
tion for two days' labor.
On Saturday, the 19th of November, at twenty minutes past two
o'clock, P. M., we set off. The road led over a plain, many places
knee deep in mud and water; at best it is only a rough bridle-path,
shaded by the branches of trees, thickly growing on each side, and
interlocking over head. At night we were favored by a bright moon,
but this did not protect us from disagreeable incidents. Sand-flies
and mosquitos assailed us from all sides, and in one place we rode
a mile through a swamp knee deep to the horses. Here one of the bag
gage-mules strayed into the thicket, which caused some delay. The
woods rang with the maledictory shouts of the muleteer and the en
couraging cries of the litter-bearers, and for twenty minutes the sand
flies and mosquitos performed their divertissemens piquans, much to
our annoyance and expense. At last the mule made his appearance,
moving at a leisurely pace, in spite of cudgeling and curses, wbich,
from long habit, he had learned to bear with meek indifference.
It was now eight o'clock at night, and we again moved on, en-

528 RANCHO DE MANUELA.
couraged by the declarations of the muleteer, as well as of the guide,
that we had not more than a league and a half to ride, before we
should reach the halting place for the night. We crossed a deep
btook, and found ourselves on firmer ground and on a better road;
and, with the view of making all ready for the reception of our sick
friend, pushed on at a trot. This league and a half led us past seve
ral ranches, where we were saluted by dogs; and it was eleven o'clock
before we reached what is termed the Rancho de Manuela, a mise
rable farm house, where travellers usually stop, but where they ob
tain very little accommodation. We entered the ruined gate, and
found several men, rolled in their sarapes, — a long poncho — sleep
ing on the ground in front of the house. At a few yards distant from
them, was placed a number of pack saddles, ranged in regular lines,
guarded by dogs. We were directed to call at a hut of the esta
blishment, on our right, where the hostess had retired for the night.
Our guide explained our situation and our wants, and after some
little delay she opened the door, — a fat, nut brown widow of forty, —
and issued forth with a candle in her hand, which, for a moment, she
held above her head to see what manner of guests we were, and then
crossed the area to the main building. We found two or three stout
muleteers asleep in the apartment, but the hostess compelled them to
vacate in our favor, and then retired, leaving us the light. Antonio,
our guide, a thin-visaged, half Indian person, bustled about, un
saddled our horses, and made a fire; and soon after the arrival of our
sick friend, gave us some tea andfresh eggs, which, added to sun
dries from our scrip, furnished forth no despicable repast to men
whose appetite had grown on a long fast, stimulated by a ride of ten
leagues. The floor was the hard-beaten earth. Our apartment contained,
besides a rude table and three or four heavy chairs, three board plat
forms, which were to be our beds, unless we came provided. It was
long past midnight before we retired, and when the candle was ex
tinguished, the moon found her way through the walls, which were
composed of upright posts, driven into the ground. Our beds were
hard; the air was rather cool; mosquitos, sand-flies, and fleas, were
heard and felt; yet, in spite of all, we fell asleep, lulled by the sound
of our horses and mules, discussing their fodder and corn only a few
feet from us.
At four o'clock the next morning, the watchful Antonio brought a
light, and roused us to prepare to set forward again. A breakfast of
Pouchong and eggs, fresh as the morning, and boiled not a single

LEAVE MANUELA. 529
bubble too much, was placed before us; and by the time we had
finished our meal, and got the horses saddled, the moon and stars
had faded from the skies, and it was broad day light. Our sick friend
set forward in his litter, and we remained to bring up the baggage-
mules. ,
The muleteers were now on their feet; and while some were rub
bing sleep from their eyes, others were loading their beasts. Close
to a shed, near the gate, stood a well-conditioned mule, with the
reins hanging on the ground, looking as if he had been unwillingly
deprived of slumber. The trappings and ornaraented caparisons of
the animal showed that the master was a man well to do in the world,
and who cared a good deal for comfort and something for appear
ances. Presently, he issued from the rancho, and stood smoking a
paper cigar, the end bent downwards, while he cast a thoughtful
glance towards the rising sun. This individual wis not more than
five feet six inches in height, but well proportioned, and his frame
promised strength and activity. A broad-brimmed, low-crowned
hat of felt, ornamented by three turns of a jaunty gold cord, shaded
a deeply bronzed face. His eyes were sharp, and surmounted by
heavy black brows; the upper lip sustained proudly a pair of curling
mustaches, and the growth upon his chin indicated that he had been
on the road raore than a day. The costume was to us novel. A
jacket of embossed russet leather, very short in its fashion,- or
namented with silver buttons; a pair of overalls of the same mate
rial, cut at bottom so wide as to be the length of the foot, were sus
tained by a red silk sash above the waist, allowing Ihe shirt to ap
pear between it and the jacket, and a pair of huge silver spurs rattled
at his heels. A long straight sword hung from hip to heel, which
might have served a Paladin; it was evidently for service: the scab
bard was of plain black leather, and a thong or noose of the same,
to secure it to the wrist, swung from the hilt.
" I should expect to find a bandit in such a man," said my cora
panion; and I wondered what he could be waiting for. At that mo
ment he made a slight salutatory inclination of the head. I advanced
towards him, saying, " You have a fine macho there, Senor?"
" Yes, Senor, the beast is not a bad one, and — raising his hat high
above his head — very much at your service."
After accepting his invitation to take " un traguito de masc^l por
las nieblas de la manana — a small swallow of mascal for the morn
ing fogs," he informed me in the course of conversation, that he re
sided near Topic, and was on his way to Santiago, with his mules,
67

530 ANTONIO — RANCHO DE GUTIERREZ.
laden with corn. He kindly suggested that we should stop at his
house to rest, and requested that we would demand there whatever
we might desire.
Our muleteer had already disappeared up themountain side,and An
tonio called us to mount. We obeyed tJie suraraons, and, receiving the
god-speed of the traveller, followed. The character of the road had
entirely changed. The path, still shaded by trees, chiefly of the Aca
cia tribe, was rugged and frequently interrupted by boulders of por-
phyritic stone. Our progress was necessarily slow, and gave us full
time to listen to the stories of Antonio, or the song of our muleteer,
in which he frequently stopped short to bestow a blow of his cudgel,
and some round objurgations, to mend the pace of his mules. In
spite of all his epithets and beating, the animals were stimulated only
for a short time, and relapsing in their leisurely steps, again required
their application.
Antonio rode on before, mounted upon a thin gray mare. His en
tire dress consisted of a pair of duck trousers, a cotton shirt which
revealed his tawny skin in several places about the shoulders, and a
broad-brimmed hat slouched over his face. His stirrups were very
short, and one naked heel was armed with an iron spur, which was
pretty constantly used, and he seemed buried almost to the shoul
ders in bags, and cloaks, and bottles, that were secured to the sad
dle. I soon discovered that Antonio was the only leech in San Bias,
and possessed of all the gossip of the road. Every one who met us
seemed right glad to see him, and saluted him with the kindly appel
lation of " compadre " — friend or god-father. We passed raany rude
crosses, set up on heaps of stones by the way-side, to coraraemorate
the, perpetration of murder on the spot, and Antonio was ever ready
to recount the history of these sad events, the most recent of which
had taken place more than fifteen years back, at a time when this
road, called El Espino, was frequently travelled by mules laden with
treasure. Though we frequently descended into- valleys, the ascent was con
tinuous. At eleven o'clock, A. M. we entered a scattering village,
named La Presa, or Rancho de Gutierrez, situated in a barren vale;
and here it was determined, that we should breakfast. But the place
could boast no inn, no house of comraon resort, and in order to find
some spot where to bivouac, Antonio rode from hut to hut, inquiring
whether they had any eggs, and at each one generally obtained a few.
When his hat was full, he halted before a rancho, which promised
most accoraraodation, and requested permission to cook the eggs as

BREAKFAST  MEXICAN LIEUTENANT. 531
well as to take shelter beneath a shed of thatch in front. This was
hospitably conceded, and we at once dismounted.
The host and hostess were sitting upon a dry bull hide spread on
the ground, alternately scrutinizing each other's heads, while their
fingers held aside their uncombed locks to facilitate the operation.
Both rose, and the man brought us seats, while the woman, more
thoughtful of our wants, called two or three boys, and with their aid
succeeded in cornering two or three half-grown chickens, which she
speedily had frying over a fire. By the time our sick friend had come
up, breakfast was ready, but the house furnished forth few appli
ances of the table; one tumbler, one tea-cup, two knives, and a half
dozen plates, being all w e could muster. While eating, a number of
lank curs gathered around, and almost took the food frora the table
in spite of us. The raisery of the poor in Spanish countries may be
estimated with tolerable accuracy, by the number of dogs they en
tertain. No sooner had the litter bearers arrived, than they sat down upon
the ground a few feet from us, and made their breakfast of thin cakes
of maize, tortillas, and charque — jerked beef — toasted over a fire.
These provisions each one had tied in a handkerchief; and the bun
dles were all carried together in panniers on a jackass. When they
had finished their humble fare, they stretched themselves on the ground
in the shade, smoked paper cigars, and chatted cheerfully, till they
fell asleep.
Just as we finished our meal, a lieutenant of the Mexican army,
attended by a servant and a lancer, rode up to the hut and requested
to be accommodated with breakfast. The costume of Mexico is pic
turesque. This gentleman wore a broad-brimmed glazed hat, with a
silver stud upon one sideof it, ashort jacket, a pair of overalls trimmed
with round silver buttons frora the hips to the heels, which were armed
with large spurs. No sooner had he alighted than these were removed
by his servant. The horses were unsaddled, and the party sat down
and began smoking paper cigars. He had left Tepic four hours before,
and was on his way to Santiago. He remarked, that in order to avoid
the bad effects of the cold mountain winds upon our sick friend, we
ought not to enter Tepic in the evening, and if we were forced to do
it, we should be "medio trastornado de aguardiente — half upset with
brandy." At one o'clock we again set off, leaving the Mexican at breakfast,
and soon began to ascend the side of a barren hill. Half way up we
passed a collection of huts, called " el pueblo de Lajitas." The

532 TORTILLAS  SAN JUAN.
road was now much more frequented, and we met numbers of droves
of mules laden with corn. One raule at least in each drove carried
a small stone tray, used in making tortillas, having legs of such
length that when set upon a level, the tray itself stood at an inclined
plane with the horizon. Later in the evening we saw the bivouacs
of the muleteers by the road; the pack-saddles were ranged in a row
by the way-side, and while the men were caring for their mules or
lying on the ground smoking paper cigars, the women were making
tortillas. To make tortillas, almost the only bread used in this part of the
country, the corn is first infused in cold water with a small portion of
lime, to remove the outer coat or pericarp. It is then placed upon
the stone tray, and the woman kneeling in .front, by the aid of a
stone cut for the purpose, reduces it to a paste, which is then beaten
to a proper thickness between the palms, and baked upon a stone
girdle. When we reached the summit of the hill upon which Lajitas is
situated, we looked back, and being at least three thousand feet
above the level of the sea, had a bird's-eye view of the plain we had
traversed the evening before. It appeared of a dark green, with here
and there a patch of white sand, or a silvery thread of water mean
dering towards the sea. One or two islands upon the coast were
dimly seen, and the horizon seeined to be formed in a line whereon
were blended the plain, the ocean, and sky.
The valleys in sight now began to wear the smiling features of
cultivation, and Palo Alto and La Meda, two picturesquely situated
hamlets, presented a cheerful and comparatively thriving appearance.
The little fruit shops and tippling shops were open; the usual work
was going forward; and nothing indicated that the day was the Sab
bath. We now came in sight of a depression or gap in the moun
tain chain — in the Alps termed a col — through which the road disap
peared from our view. On our right the mountain of San Juan rose
slopingly, perhaps, two thousand five.hundred feet above the road,
but the elevation to the left was very much less. The peak of San
Juan was clothed in green to its surarait, which is, according to Cap
tain Beechey, by trigonoraetrical measurement six thousand two hun
dred and thirty feet above the level of the sea. Just beyond this
col, Antonio informed us, was Tepic, and as we had ridden at a
pretty good pace, we were in advance of our sick friend. We,
therefore halted, and sat down by the road-side, where Antonio in
forested us for an hour with a detailed account of a French seaman.

THE CITY OF TEPIC 533
whom I had seen at San Bias. He had been disemboweled by a
knife, in an affray with a Mexican, three weeks before, and the in
testine had not been replaced. Antonio declared that he did not
know what to do in such a case, but knowing that brandy was good
for fresh wounds, he had washed this one freely, and bound it up
with a bandage; but the Frenchman, impatient of the pain, very soon
removed it. When I saw the case, it was in my opinion hopeless.
At sunset ray sick friend came up, and we pushed on. The moon,
nearly at her full, rose very clear, and when we descended upon the
plain of Tepic, I was almost certain we were riding upon a bed of
chalk. We were informed that it was marie. The road was crossed
in several places by broad ravines, from twenty to forty feet in depth,
with perpendicular sides, which had been formed, evidently, by tor
rents. In one or two places, the road ran along the bottom of these
ravines for a mile. In passing the col, or mountain gap, the soil was
softer than it was in any part of the road which approached San
Juan from San Bias, after leaving La Piesa. This would seem to
be in accordance with the remarks of Mr. Robert Bakewell in rela
tion to the Alps.*
When about three miles off,' we saw a white haze, which Antonio
said hung over the town. At seven o'clock we entered Tepic, and
were followed by hundreds of dogs, all barking and growling, and
snapping at our horses' heels, as we rode through the streets to the
corner of the plaza, where we were hospitably received and enter
tained in the house of our countryman, Mr. J. L. Kennedy. Our
sick friend had not suffered by the journey, which by the road of El
Espino is at least seventy miles. The other road, called Los palos
de tres Marias is fifty miles; but is so narrow that a litter could nOt
pass. The bearers had kept up with us remarkably well, and on
their arrival manifested signs of very little fatigue.
The city of Tepic stands on a plain, forming the bottora of a pla
teau or basin, nearly surrounded by mountains. The soil is fertde,
and the surrounding scenery agreeable. The city, according to
Captain Beechey, is two thousand nine hundred feet above the sea,
in 21° SC 42" north latitude, and twenty-two railes in a direct line
to the eastward of San Bias, though raore than double that distance
by either road. At present, it is estiraated to contain frora ten to
twelve thousand inhabitants. The streets are paved, an4 cross at
right angles. Most of the houses are but one story high. The
* Bakewell's Geology, p. 353. New Haven, 1833.

534 < TEPIC  XALISCO.
plaza, or public square, has a portico on one side of it, and the church
on the other, and is ornamented by trees and stone seats in their
shade. The town contains a theatre and a cock-pit, and the people
are famed for hospitality and sociability.
Tepic was founded towards the close of the seventeenth century,
at the time of establishing the dock-yard or marine department at
San Bias, as a place of resort for the officers during the rainy and
sickly seasons. But Tepic does not boast a climate remarkable for
salubrity. There are several swamps and lagoons in its vicinity, and,
at certain seasons, it is obnoxious to marsh fevers of a typhoid cha
racter, intermittents and dysenteries. Yet at a short distance of
two leagues, there is an ancient Indian village, Xalisco, which is so
healthy as to be the resort of invalids from Tepic. The temperature
at this season ranges from 60° to 70° F.
The day of our arrival was a feast day of the church, and the whole
world had gone to Xalisco to celebrate it in a bull-bait and ball; and
the next day being rainy they did not return, so we saw Tepic under
unfavourable circumstances. The following day, however, we rode
to Xalisco. We mounted at six o'clock A. M . and found the morn
ing pleasant, and the ride agreeable. At the entrance of the village
we passed the plaza de toros, which had been temporarily erected
for the occasion, of palm leaves and branches; and if we may believe
those who were present, answered the purpose of the entertainment
admirably well. We visited the church, and were showed a stone
in the wall, bearing a very perfect foot track, which is said to be
that of San Mafias. This impression was probably made when the
stone, the character of which was concealed beneath a coat of white-
¦wash, was soft. The population of Xalisco does not exceed fifteen
hundred. It is pleasantly situated, and is supplied with water from
a mountain by a wooden conduit, several miles in length, supported
on posts about five feet high.
We breakfasted with the British consul, Mr. Barron and his in
teresting family, and at twelve o'clock took leave of them, regretting
that we were not allowed a longer time to enjoy their very agreeable
society. In order to spare our horses, Mr. Barron very kindly sent
us to town in his carriage, drawn by seven mules, guided by two
postillions. At two o'clock, P. M. we took leave of Tepic, and returned by
the shorter road of Los Palos, and reached Manuela at eight o'clock.
We found a party of muleteers in the apartment we had occupied in
the rancho, gambling at cards for copper cuartillos, the fourth part of

RETURN TO SAN BLAS. 535
twelve and a half cents. Our hostess cleared the apartment, telling
them, that some "caballeros decentes — decent gentlemen," wanted it.
They retreated, muttering a little, but were speedily seated round a
dry bull hide upon the ground in the open air, where they resumed
their game by the dim light of a tallow candle. The lady of Manuela
made many kind inquiries about our sick friend, and soon gave us a
very good supper, after which we retired to sleep without bed or bed
ding. The blithe humor of the hostess encouraged rae to beg some
thing to make my bed on the boards a littie more comfortable, and
she cheerfully complied with the request, remarking at the sarae
time, that we ought never to travel without a blanket or a sarape at
least. She departed, and in a few minutes returned with a bull hide,
which she spread on the boards for a bed, and over it a sarape. It
is true I fell asleep in spite of fleas, sand flies and mosquitos, and
the incessant champ, champ, of our horses feeding close at hand; but
in the morning I was not clearly satisfied that a dry bull hide is a
better bed than a soft plank.
At four o'clock the next morning we were on the road. It had
rained heavily in the night; the moon had not yet set, and we tra
velled by her light until her beams were dissipated by those of the
mornino- sun. After a ride of ten leagues we reached San Bias, at
ten o'clock, A. M., and at once embarked.

536 HARBOR OF ACAPULCO.

CHAPTER L.
SKETCHES IN MEXICO.
December, 1836,
On the twenty third of November, at one o'clock, P. M., we made
sail for Acapulco, in order to fill up with water, which on no other
part of this coast is to be had without difficulty; here it is of an ex
cellent quality and easily obtained.
The winds were light, and we had occasional showers. On the
second of December, we were becalmed in sight of the shore, which,
close to the sea was richly verdant in cultivated fields, and in the
rear, the mountains rose at least 10,000 feet high. At half past ele
ven o'clock the next morning, we anchored in the harbor of Acapulco,
so celebrated in the palmy days of Spain, as the port of her richly
freighted galeons, that swept the Pacific between Mexico and Ma
nila. The season of their arrival and sojourn here, was held as a fair,
at which assembled the wealthy and the beautiful from all parts of
Mexico. Here the silver of her mines and the cochineal of her fields
of cactus were exchanged for the spices and muslins of India, the
silks and fabrics of China, and the tobacco of the Philippines. On
those occasions the little town of Acapulco was enlivened by feasts
and dancing, and all was holyday. But Tihie, which changes all
things, has also changed this. Since 1817, no galeon has appeared
in this beautiful bay, which is shut in frora all winds by mountains of
granite, several hundred feet high. Their sides are clothed in the
richest green; and the raargins of these ever peaceful waters abound
in an alraost endless variety of moluscous animals. Since the com
menceraent of the revolution, Acapulco has been the scene of a con
stant succession of war, siege and famine; and at present its com-

TOWN OF AOAPULOO. 537
merce is at the lowest ebb, being ^Idom visited except by a few tri
fling coasters.
The town, which is surrounded by swamps and stagnant pools in
the neighborhood, is sraall, miserable, and unhealthy at certain sea
sons. Its population is now estiraated at 3,000, which it is asserted,
is greater than it ever was, at any time, previous to the political se
paration of Mexico from Spain. With a few exceptions, the inhabi
tants are descended from Chinese, Malays, Mexican aborigines,
negroes and Europeans, all promiscuously mingled, forming a small,
feeble race of very poor people.
The place is defended by a castle which was once, like all Spanish
fortresses, thought to be impregnable; but sieges, earthquakes, and
neglect have left it a mere ruin. According to a statement of the
governor, the guns were overturned in attempting to return our sa
lute, but we were afterwards told, that after flring seven guns, all
the powder was expended, and His Excellency thought it would ap
pear more respectable to say, the guns were dismounted, and, there
fore, no more could be fired.
Bowditch lays down Acapulco in 16° 55' N. and 100° 54' longi
tude west; but according to our reckoning, it is 16° 51' 30" north,
and in longitude 100° 8' west from Greenwich, differing not only
from Bowditch but from Arrowsmith's charts, which we found, as
well as every one who visits the coast, to be very far in error, not
only at this point, but along the whole Mexican coast.
One morning, I visited the shore before daylight. The church
was open; bells were ringing, and rockets were firing in celebration
of the day of " la purisiraa concepcion." A small altar was placed
in the door-way, before which the Cura was officiating in his robes,
though the day was not yet fairiy broken. More than a hundred
people of all ages and sexes, were seen kneeling in groups upon the
ground in front of the church; while others, at a littie distance, were
standing respectfully uncovered, with their ponchos or sarapes closely
wrapped about them. Those who were kneeling, placed their broad
felt hats behind them upon their legs; and beside almost every fe
male was a plate containing a few coppers. The picture was filled
up by the mules and asses of the market people, standing here and
tiiere, half asleep, araong the several groups. The service lasted
till sunrise, and when it ended with the raerry peal of bells, the
scene suddenly changed. The market people spread out what
they had for sale, and the women seized their plates and coppers,
68

538 USE OF TOBACCO  MARKET.
and went to purchasing, and the men sauntered about smoking
cigars. Smoking tobacco is universal with both sexes. Visiting on one
occasion a high officer of the government, I found hira and his wife
in the same hammock, while the children were running about the
room, and all the family smoking. One littie girl, only three years
and two months old, was smoking a Guayaquil cigar, at least four
inches long, and apparently with gusto. I know it is the practice of
most travellers to condemn the use of tobacco in all forms in all
countries, but I fear their strictures will do littie to change a habit
¦Which is so universal. Staunton tells us, there is no record of to
bacco having been introduced into China, and we are informed, that
the Portuguese met with it on their first visit to Java. It is now
used throughout Asia, Africa, America, and in a great part of Eu
rope. If it were truly indigenous to America alone, it has spread
over the world with an astounding rapidity, for its use is now more
general than that of tea. We know that tobacco was first intro
duced into Europe from America; but it was probably known in Asia
long before the voyages of Columbus were undertaken. If smoking
cigars be a sin, — God help the wicked.
The market of Acapulco affords a variety of vegetables and fruits,
.as pumpkins, onions, sweet potatoes, (which when boded are of a
deep purple color,) toraatoes, peppers, limes, sweet lemons, pine-ap
ples, oranges, bananas, melons, guayavas, &c., but not in great abun
dance, nor at a cheap rate. The beef is good, and the poultry
obtained here, for richness of flavor, is probably not equalled in any
part of the world.
As at the other ports of Mexico which we had visited, we here
found the colors flying at half mast, in sympathy for the more than
half fallen fortunes of General Santa Ana. Yet to hear some of
the Mexicans upon this coast speak of him, one might suppose he
had not a friend in the republic.
From the earliest struggle for her independence, Mexico has been
unfortunate in her leading men. With sorae few exceptions, they
have proved the hasty exclamation of Dr. Johnson, that " patriotism
is the last refuge of a scoundrel," to have some foundation in truth.
It has but too frequentiy happened, that not the nation's good, but
personal wealth and eclat have been the objects aimed at by this
class of great men. But they have been often mal-adroit; and at
the moment they fancied themselves on the very brink of fortune,

MEXICO AND MEXICANS. 539
the tyranny and injustice of their acts towards the people have re
coiled upon theraselves; for there is a point in oppression beyond
which the people of no country will bear, and they have been preci
pitated from the height of power, to expiate their crimes upon a
scaffold, or in a gloomy exile. This shows that public virtue still
exists, though it struggle with numerous instances of private vice
and degeneracy.
But it has not been in her leading- men alone that Mexico has been
unfortunate. Her custom-house officers are notoriously open to
bribes. The duties are so exorbitant on foreign merchandise that
no commerce paying them can thrive; and the officers of the cus
toras, aware of this, very patriotically make such arrangements with
supercargoes arriving in their ports as will secure a profit to the
merchant, and something for the republic, as they emphatically style
it, and no less for theraselves. The naval and military officers are
said to be no less discerning of their own interests at least. I have
been assured that commanding officers of marine establishments are
wont to sell the public stores in their charge to private vessels, and
consider the proceeds as the perquisites of office. Officers of the
army coramanding posts have done no less. An English gentleman,
who has been long in the country, engaged in mining, told me that,
on one occasion, he purchased some powder for blasting, and, in a
few minutes afterwards, met the commander of the place, with whom
he was on intimate terms.
" Amigo," exclaimed the soldier, " sols mul ingrato en no dar a
mi la preferencia — Friend, in not giving me the preference, you have
been ungrateful."
" The preference in what?"
" In the powder."
" I did not know you had powder for sale."
" But I have though, in the arsenal, when a friend wants to buy;
I would have sold to you at half price."
A governor of a place on this coast actually offered to sell, to tbe
master of an American merchant ship, the brass guns of the fortress
under his command.
The officers of the Mexican government, along the coast of the
Pacific, are generally ignorant, and, in their deportment, tyrannical
and overbearing. The Governor of Acapulco is a man who has risen
from the rank and file of the array through his personal courage; he
can neither read nor write. Public and private virtue, araong them,
is only a name, but urbanity is every thing. Though the Mexican

540 MEXICO AND MEXICANS.
officer would pillage the government, he would never be guilty of a
breach of decorum or etiquette; and, to send him a despatch, written
on paper, without a proper margin, the width of which must be one-
fourth or one-half of the sheet, according to the rank of the individul
to whom it is addressed, would, probably, wound his honor more than
tb call him scoundrel, or tweak his nose.
Though this be not the character of the Mexicans in general, it is
to be feared that such is its hue in but too many instances. Of course,
there are thousands belonging to the republic whose morals are un
impeachable; but such men, I am assured by many who have had
ample opportunities of knowing, are not found in the public offices:
they live in retirement, lamenting the evils they cannot remedy.
Dark and melancholy is the present condition of Mexico; and the
prospect of a better state of things seems to be almost as far distant
as at the moment of her first taking up arms. Her limits embrace
an extended territory, rich in mineral and agricultural wealth; but
the population is lazy, ignorant, and, what is worse, mismanaged.
Religion is at a low ebb, and education has not been long enough at
tended to for its beneficial effects to be sensibly felt. Her trade,
compared with what it might be, is nothing. Indeed, it is impossible
for the comraerce of a state, weighed down by the chains of tyranny
and misrule, to flourish amidst disturbances, caused by frequent re
volution and anarchy. Industry thrives only when sheltered by
peace; she shrinks from servitude. Genius languishes without the
incentive of emulation, and expires when deprived of the pabulum of
hope. There can be neither emulation nor hope where propriety and
morality are not duly respected. Nothing can be a better eulogium
on civil liberty, nor better show the necessity of guarantee to the
rights of man than the fact, that itis impossible for man to toil suc
cessfully when his labors go solely to enrich hard masters, or tyran
nical and impolitic rulers. Then, how can we expect Mexico to
prosper till she be regenerated, by education, to a sense of her own
condition? These remarks may be harsh, but the reader will bear in mind
they are general, and there are many, very many, bright exceptions
to what has been censured. I have aimed at truth, and I believe I
have hit the mark; and if I have inflicted a wound on any individual,
I can only declare, " No levell'd malice
Infects one coma in the course I hold  "

CONCLUSION.

VOYAGE TO PERU. 543

CHAPTER LI.

November, 1837.

On the 11th day of December, 1836, we set sail from Acapulco,
and stood to the southward. The wind was light, the weather rainy
and unpleasant; and, a few days after sailing, an epidemic typhoid
fever appeared on board, which yielded, in every case, to the plan
of treatraent adopted. On the 27th we crossed the equator in 88°
west longitude, and on the 3d of January, 1 837, anchored at Payta,
whence we sailed again on the 5th. After a tedious passage of twenty
days, we arrived at Callao, and found that a war was waging between
Chile and Peru, and the port blockaded by a Chilian squadron, un
der the comraand of Adrairal Blanco. Owing to the period of en-
listraent of her crew having expired, the U. S. frigate Brandywine,
Coraraodore Wadsworth, had sailed, a few days previously, for the
United States, leaving our interests to the protection of the U. S.
schooner Boxer, Lieutenant Coraraandant, Hugh N. Page, absent on
the leeward coast of Peru.
Almost immediately after our arrival at Callao, the following com
munications were made to Commodore Kennedy, and we were
obliged to assume the protection of our interests upon the coast, at a
time when all were anxious to return to the United States. But it
is vain to complain that a sailor's life is a dog's life, though we feel
it^o at this moment; for, " cojegera de perro y lagrimas de muger no
valen nada."
" Legation of the United States.
Lima, January 9,8th, 1837.
Sir,
" I do myself the honor to lay before you a copy of a letter of this
date, addressed to me by the principal comraercial houses in this
place, requesting my good offices with you to procure a detention of
the naval force under your command, until the present difficulties

544 MR. larned's letter.
between Chile and Peru are adjusted, or there be a certainty of the
early arrival of some other pubUc vessel, competent to afford the ne
cessary protection to our interest here.
" Without entering into all the motives set forth in the letter al
luded to, for desiring the presence of your force, or intending to be
understood as fully sanctioning some of them, I most cordially and
unhesitatingly join in the request, that, if in your estimation it be
not incompatible with other paramount objects of public service,
(which, under existing circumstances, would seem difficult,) you
would consent to remain at Callao until the arrival of the expected
relief squadron, or of some one or more of its vessels, capable of
giving to our valuable interests here the desirable security; and I
think, that in so doing, you will render an important service to our
commerce and common country.
I have the honor to be, ,
With great respect.
Your obedient servant,
Samuel Larned,
To Commodore Edmund P. Kennedy,
Commanding the U. States Naval Forces in the Pacific."
" Lima, January 28, 1837.
Sir,
" The arrival of the United States Ship Peacock, at a moment so
fraught with danger to neutral interests, and when, by the unavoida
ble departure of the Brandywine, we have been left without any ef
ficient protection for the large amount of American property now on
the coast, and shortly expected, induces us to hope, that we will not
again be left unprotected, and that by a representation to Commo
dore Kennedy, of our situationy and of the state of affairs between
Chile and Peru, he will consent to postpone, for the present, his de
parture from Callao.
" By last accounts from Valparaiso, war had been declared by Chile
against Peru, and we have every reason to fear, that the forraer will
soon endeavor to establish a blockade of the principal Peruvian
ports. " Several Chilian vessels of war are on the coast; sorae are at an
chor in the Bay of Callao; others are watching the Peruvian vessels
shut up in Guyaquil; so that, in case a blockade be declared, we
have no hope of its being raised by any force which Peru can now
oppose to the enemy's squadron.

letter from AMERICAN MERCHANTS TO MR. LARNED. 545
" Most of the American vessels trading to this coast, bring a large
portion of their cargoes adapted to the Lima market, and some are
daily expected, known to have valuable cargoes, purchased expressly
for this place. If they be turned oft' from Callao, the goods must be
deposited at great expense and imminent risk at other ports; and,
perhaps, many of them ofa perishable nature, be entirely lost before
they can be again brought to this market.
" It is also generally believed, that the French will not allow an
immediate blockade; — and we might, in event of being without an
efficient naval force, have the mortification of seeing vessels of other
nations convoyed in, and those bearing our flag turned away, for
want of a force to cause our rights to be respected. We deem it,
moreover, extremely dangerous, at all times, to see many vessels
cruising under the flags of these countries.; their inability to officer
them properly, and pay them punctually, always rendering their
neighborhood a comraon danger to all who are unprotected, or weaker
than themselves.
" We are aware that the Peacock is on her way home, from a long
and arduous cruise; that her officers and men had no idea of being
detained long here; and that the Commodore must naturally feel
anxious to submit to our government the important results obtained
by his cruise. But, at the same tirae, we are too well aware of his
devotedness to the service of his countrymen, to doubt, for a moment,
his desire of protecting their interests whenever he may find them in
danger; and that if it be possible for him to delay his departure from
Callao until the difficulties between Chile and Peru be adjusted, or
until there be a certainty of the early arrival of sorae other Ameri
can vessel of war, corapetent to our protection, that he will do so
for the reasons already stated.
" It is with this view that we have the honor to address you, and re
spectfully to request, that you will use your exertions with Corarao
dore Kennedy to induce hira to remain, and afibrd us by his pre
sence the protection so much to be desired for the security of Ame
rican interests. " We are, sir, with great respect.
Your most obedient servants,
Alsop & Co.
Edward M'Call & Co.
Samuel Earned, Esq.
Charge d'affaires of the U. S.
near the Government of Peru."
69

546 LETTER FROM COMMODORE BALLARD
On the 6th of March, the U. S. Schooner Enterprise, Lieutenant
Commandant George N. Hollins, arrived at Callao from Valparaiso,
where she arrived on the 6th of February, after a passage of 52 days
from Acapulco. The Chilian squadron had withdrawn from Callao,
and it was thought advisable, that the Peacock should visit Valpa
raiso. On the 13th of March, she set sail; on the 31st, anchored at
the island of Juan Fernandez, and, sailing the next day, anchored at
Valparaiso on the 4th of April.
On the first of May, we got under way, and, after a boisterous pas
sage, anchored at Pisco on the 18th, and at Callao on the 21st.
In the afternoon of the 26th, the U. S. Ship North Carolina, bear
ing the broad pendant of Commodore Henry E. Ballard, arrived, and
we all felt that we should be homeward bound, but fate determined
that it should be otherwise. Our ship was required still to remain,
, for the trial of a seaman named Charles Field, who murdered his
shipmate Blye Gryle, on board of the U. S. Schooner Boxer, on the
night of the 28th of February. He was tried, condemned and exe
cuted. The following letter, which explains itself, was received by Com
modore Kennedy, to whose kindness I am indebted for a copy of it.
"United States Ship North Carolina,
Harbor of Callao, June \st, 1837.
Sir.
" My absence at Lima on public duty, for a few days past, has de
prived me of the honor of sooner acknowledging the receipt of your
communication of Saturday last, together with the package left for
me by Coraraodore Wadsworth.
" I cannot deny myself the pleasure afforded by this opportunity of
tendering to you my thanks, for the very important service you have
rendered our country, in consenting, at the request of our country
men resident at Lima and at Valparaiso, to assume the command of
the naval station, at a moment so important to our commerce in this
sea. — And I entertain no doubt but the Honorable the Secretary of
the Navy, will have equal pkasure in giving credit where so much is
due. " In the conversation had with you a few days since, I adverted to
the possibility of my being constrained by the urgent solicitations of
the merchants of Lima and Valparaiso, to ask your concurrence in
the expediency of detaining the Schooner Enterprise on this station —
which is rendered, it seems to me, absolutely necessary by the bellige
rent attitude assumed by the governments of Peru and Chile, to-

TO COMMODORE KENNEDY. 547
wards each other— by the prospect of a blockade of the ports of Peru
by the Chilian squadron— and by the unfortunate state of the rudder
of this ship; which will preclude the possibility of my going to sea
until a piece of timber can be procured from Talcahuano, sufficiently
large to repair it — or until I can receive a new one from the United
States. " Under these circumstances I beg leave to ask in all frankness,
whether you will have any thing of importance yet to accomplish, on
your way homeward, that will be likely to suffer from my detaining
the Enterprise in this sea; and whether you will be able to give such of
her crew as may be entitled to return to the United States, a passage
in your ship.
"Justice and a sense of propriety, seem to demand that the un
fortunate man charged with the crime of murder should be brought
to trial with as little delay as the nature of the service will allow,
as well as that a court competent to try a case of so much importance,
should be composed of officers of more rank than those I could con
trol, were you to sail.
" Under such solemn considerations, I deem it a duty I owe to the
service as well as to the unfortunate being who is charged with a crime
that may touch his life, to take upon myself the responsibility of de
taining your ship for a few days longer, until the arrival of the Boxer,
in which vessel are all the witnesses, as well as the person exhibiting
tiie charge.
" In rendering myself thus instrumental in detaining you a few days
longer from your country and your friends — I am not without the
hope, that the detention may be the means of restoring to better health,
those brave fellows under your command, who have suffered so much
during a cruise abounding with enterprise, and with suffering.
I have the honor to be.
Your most obedient servant, with great respect,
Henry E. Ballard,
Commodore commanding in Chief the
Naval Forces of the U. S. in the Pacific Ocean.
Commodore E. P. Kennedy,
Commanding the United States
East India Squadron."
It was determined that the Enterprise should be left under the
command of Commodore Ballard. All the necessary changes were
made, and, on the 5th of July, the joyful cry of the boatswain, "All

548 homeward voyage.
hands up anchor for home," sounded through the ship; and, after we
were under sail, a thousand voices cheered our parting with loud
huzzas from the North Carolina's rigging, and, at sunset, we bade
farewell to Callao.
The next day we anchored in the roads of Huacho, and sailed
again on the 7th, after completing our supplies of wood and stock.
On the 7th of August we passed the meridian of Cape Horn; and on
the 23d, after a passage of forty-six days, anchored at Rio de Janeiro.
On the 2d of September we sailed, and arrived at Bahia (or St.
Salvador) on the 15th. We again got under way on the 19th, bound
directly horae. We now becarae impatient to reach the termination
of our toils and privations, which had not been few. Every breeze
inspired hope, and was hailed with joy; and every calm cast a gloom
almost amounting to despair. Our anxieties and impatience increased
as the distance lessened, and the last few days of the voyage round
the world were spent in conjecturing and speculating upon the day
of arrival. Every heart beat high with hope; yet there was mingled
with it an emotion of fear — a foreboding that we might not meet all
who were dear to us, as we had left them; eight months had passed
since any of us had heard from our friends, and, in that period, how
many might not have been swept from araong the living? The horae-
staying can scarcely comprehend the emotions which sway the breast
of the sea-weary voyager, as he approaches the coast of his country
after years of absence, nor appreciate the gleams of joy shot up from
the depths of the heart, at the cheering cry of " Land, Oh!"
The long wished-for hour arrived. On the 26th of October we
descried the coast of Virginia, and soon afterwards a graceful pilot-
boat caught our view. In an hour more, the pilot came on board,
but could give us no inforraation, not even a newspaper, and it was
not till the next day the Peacock anchored opposite to the city of
Norfolk, after an absence of more than two years and a half.
A long and weary round we have been together; but here, gene
rous Reader, we must part, and let me indulge a hope, there is no
unkindness in our parting; for I would crave thy greeting, should we
meet again, to while away an idle hour in talk about other lands: and,
take my last word for it, there is no realm beyond the broad seas to
compare with our own, in the blessings of rational liberty, or the af
fluence of nature — none wherein men may be so happy and so blest.
THE END.

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX.

LIST OP OFFICERS ATTACHED TO THE U. S. SHIP PEACOCK
April, 1835.

Edmund P. Kennedy,
C. K. Stribling,
George N. Hollins,f
William Green,
Charles C. Turner,
Murray Mason,
W. S. W. Ruschenberger,
David Harlan,
E. G. M'Cauley,*
S. W. Godon,"!-
Addison Searle,"
Charles H. Goldsborough,*
J. D. MendenhaU,f
John Weems,-)-
William Rogers Taylor, -j-
William Leigh,f
B. S. B. Darlington,!
John Contee,*
W. S. Drayton,
George W. Chapman,
Charles Richardson,
E. S. Hutter,
S. B. Lee,»
R. De Lancey Izard,
I. C. Wilhamson,*
John Clar,

Commodore.
Commander, (acting.)
Lieutenant.

Fleet Surgeon.
Assistant Surgeon.
Purser.Acting Master.
Chaplain.
Commodore's Secterary.
Professor of Mathematics.
Passed Midshipman.

Midshipman.

Capt^n's Clerk.

* Did not perform the whole crube.
t Promoted to higher grade during the cruise.

appendix.

551

John Knight,*
Archibald S. Lewis,
James Ferguson,
William Peterson,*
Edmund Roberts, Esq.,i:

Boatswain, (acting.)
Gunner.
Sail-maker.
Carpenter, (acting.)
Passenger.

Whole number of souls on board, including officers, seamen, ordinai'y seamen,
landsmen, boys, and marines, 301.

LIST OP OFFICERS OP THE U. S. SCHOONER ENTERPRISE.
July, 1835.

Archibald S. CampbeD,§
Richard L. Page,
John C. Sharpe,!
Thomas R. Rootes,
William F. M'Clenahan,
Richard R. Waldron,|l
Hendrick Norvell,!
James J. Forbes,
William Ross Gardiner, |1
William G. Benham,
Henry Cadwalader,
Holt Wilson,

Lieutenant Commanding.
Lieutenant. " (acting.)
" (acting.)
Assistant Surgeon.
Purser, (acting.)
Passed Midshipman.
Midshipman.

Captain's Clerk.

Total number on board, including seamen, ordinary seamen, and boys, 80.
t Died at Macao, June 12, 1836.
§ Died at Macao, June 3, 1836.
y Invalided, and did not perform the whole cruise.

552

ABSTRACT OF PASSAGES, &c., OF PEACOCK'S VOYAGE OF
CIRCUMNAVIGATION.

Date of

Date of ar

Days at

Distance run per

sailing. From

rival at

The port of

sea.

log.

1835.

1835.

April 23
New York,
June 11
Rio de Janeiro,
49
5,589 miles.
July 12
Rio de Janeiro,
Sept. 2
Zanzibar,
52
6,457
Sept. 8
Zanzibar,
Sept. 29
Muscat,
22
2,119
Oct. 10
Muscat,
Oct. 23
Bombay,
13
812
Dec. 4
Bombay,
Dec. 15
Colombo,
13
870
Dec. 24
Colombo,
1836.
1836.
Jan. 13
Batavia,
19
1,897
Feb. 17
Batavia,
March 26
Siam Roads,
37
3,316
April 20
Siam,
May 4
Pulo Oby,
14
777
May 5
Pulo Oby,
May 14
Turon Bay,
9
593
May 22
Turon Bay,
May 26
Macao,
4
446
June 23
Macao,
July 15
Bonin Isles,
22
1,876
July 21
Bonin Isles,
Sept. 7
Honolulu,
49
4,791
Oct. 9
Honolulu,
Oct. 24
Monte-rey,
15
2,425
Oct. 30
Monte-rey,
Nov. 12
Mazatlan,
13
1,489
Nov. 15
Mazatlan,
Nov. 18
San Bias,
3
183
Nov. 23
San Bias,
Dec. 3
Acapulco,
10
667
Dec. 11
Acapulco,
1837.
1837.
Jan. 3
Payta,
23
2,290
Jan. 5
Payta,
Jan. 25
Callao,
20
1,233
March 13
Callao,
March 31
Juan Fernandez,
18
2,291
April 1
Juan Fernandez,
April 4
Valparaiso,
3
360
May 1
Valparaiso,
May 17
Pisco,
17
1,520
May 19
Pisco,
May 21
Callao,
2
143
July 5
Callao,
July 6
Huacho,
1
80
July 7
Huacho,
Aug. 23
8io de Janeiro,
46
6,366
Sept. 2
Rio de Janeiro,
Sept. 15
Bahia,
13
1,460
Sept. 19
Bahia,
Oct. 26
Hampton Roads,
37
524
4,031
1
54,285 miles.
Days in
port.
4U
1.
INDEX AND TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Acapulco, Adam's peak.
Admiral's remonstrance.
Agriculture of Java,
Ape, the white, of Siam,
Apothecary of Moutrah,
Ambolee,American cotton goods.
Amphibious child.

Page 536 155
103238
298 76
146 47
279
Animal mistaken for an island, 20
Animals of Zanzibar, 38, 45
" of Ceylon, 171
(white) of Siam, 348
Ants' eggs, how eaten, 296
Arabian sea, voyage across the, 97
Arabs, character of, 86
" complexion of, 29
" costume of, 38
Arab mode of courtship, 73
Arab feast at Muscat, 80
Arab females, character of, 73
" " dress of, 72
Arab hunter, 31
Arms and ornaments of Negroes
at Zanzibar, 30
Armorers at Zanzibar, 45
Audience with the King of Siam, 330
Aviary at Macao, 380

Ball on board.

19

" at Ceylon,

209

Bandora,

146

Banka, strait of.

251

" island of.

262

Bankok, arrive at,

275

" mission house at,

276

" city of.

277

" population of,

279

Chinese residents at,

2H0

[ " currency of.

285

Page
Bankok, theatricals at, 316
Banquet at the palace of the Sul
tan of Muscat, 79
Banyans, 35
Batavia, roads of, 316
" landing at, 216
" entrance to the city of, 218
" old town of, 219
" new city of, 221
" hall of science, 222
" population of, 223
" in the rainy season, 224
" mortality at, 224
" climate of, 225
" at night, 226
" China camp, 227
" use of tobacco at, 218
" bank of, 241
Bazaar at Muscat, 71
" Bombay, 100
" Bankok, 315
Bedouins visit the ship, 56
Bedouin warrior, 57
Bedouins, skirmish with, 59
" description of, by the
Sultan of Muscat, 69
Beggars at Bombay, 129
Beloches, 76
" town of the, 77
hut of, 77
Birds' nests, 241
Birds of Paradise, 244
Boat of ceremony, 270
Boat sent to Muscat, 58, 62
Boats, attempt of Bedouins upon, 60
Boats used at the pearl fishery
of Ceylon, 197
Bombay, harbor of, 98
" view of the town of, 98
" island of, 104

70

554

Page
Bombay, town of, 105
" population of, 105
" commerce of, 106
" government of, 107
" historical sketch of, 108
climate of, 104
" departure from, 153
" presidency, 109
" " population of, 114
Bonin Isles, 438
Book, Siamese, 260
Books, Siaraese mode of reading, 314
Books presented to Momfanoi, 347
Borneo, island of, 253
" population of, ^ 254
" products of, 254
" dayaks of, 254
" head-hunting in, '255
Boudha of Emerald, 323
Buitenzorg, road to,. 228
Belle Vue at, 229
" garden at, 230
Bunder, tbe new, (Bombay,) 99
Bunder-boat, 138
Gaffes at Muscat, 74
Calm, 20
Calms, effects of long continued, 22
California, Upper,. 507
" " government of, 508
" judiciary of, 508
" history of, 514
" expedition of Cortes to, 516
" Lower, 518
Campbell, Lt. A. S., death of, 371
Canorin, city of, 145
Canton, approach to, 391
" city of, 393
Cashmere shawls, 135
Caste in India, 125
Catholics, expulsion of, from
Oahu, 471
Cave of Camoens, 381
Caves of Elepiianta, 139
" Salsette, 143
" Jogheyser, 146
" India and Egypt, 147
Cemetery at Macao, 382
" at Zanzibar, 39
Ceylonese, costume of the, 158
Ceylon, approach to, 154
" island of, 163
" population of, 165
" mortality in, 166

Page-
Ceylon missionary establish
ments, 167
" climate of; 169'
" productions of, 169
" commerce of, 173
" minerals of, 171
" government of, 173
" revenue of, 174
" history of, 176
" exports 179
" jewellers of, 203
" spicy breezes of, 205
China and the Chinese, 420
Chinese females, 391
" cookery, 398
" weights, 399
" policy, 402
Cholera on board, 326
Chowfaya, 291
Church at Borabay, 117
Cinnamon, 170
Cinnamon tree, 207
" garden, 207'
" oil, 208
Climate of Muscat, 67
" Zanzibar, 46
" Bombay, 104
" Ceylon, 169
" Batavia, 225
" Macao, 380
" Tepic, 534
" San Bias, 526
" Mazatlan, 521
Clove tree, history of, 50
Cloves, value of, 51
" oil of, 207
Coast of Hindoostan, 153
Cobra di Capello, 161
" venom of the, 161
Cochin-China, coast of, 349
" territory of, 364
" departure from, 369
Cochin-Chinese costume, 350
" language, 350
" mandarin, 352
" soldiers, 352
" market women, 353
" punctiliousness, 358
" physical character of
tlie, 354
" treaty with the, 357
" intercourse with the, 358
Cocoanut, oil, 39
" tree, 44
" uses of the, 45

555

Page
Coffee, export of, from Java, 239
Coins of Muscat, 87
" Ceylon, 208
Siam, 285
Colombo, landing at, 157
" library at, 159
" position of, 201
" inhabitants of, 20-2
¦" society at, 209
" departure from, 210
Commerce of Zanzibar, 47
" Muscat, 83
Bombay, 106
" Ceylon, 173
Batavia, 240
" Siam, 280
" Sandwich Islands, 488
California, 506
Comoro Islands, 25
Conicoply, 202
Consultation at Mazatlan, 523
Copal, 45
Coral Islands, formation of, 43
Court of justice at Zanzibar, 42
Conrt of Siam, 332
Cowries, 285
Currency of Bombay, 107
of Siam, 285
Curiosity of the Siamese, 328
Custom-house at Zanzibar, 34
Cutter, cruise of the second, 62
Ddus, 48
Dayaks of Borneo, 254
Debtors, how treated in Siam, 289
Depopulation of the Sandwich
Islands, 480
Devotee, 122
Dhonies, 156
Diamonds of Ceylon, 205
Diplomacy in Cochin-China, 358
" Sandwich Islands, 495
Discipline, advantages of, 61
Diseases of Ceylon, 169
Dispensary of the missionaries
at Bankok, 312
Dockyard at Bombay, 101
Doctor at Mazatlan, 523
Dog-eating, 463
Dubash, 101
Duelling, an Arab's opinion of, 86
Dung, as fuel, 119
Dungaree town, 120
Durbar, 124
Dutch soldiers at Batavia, 217
" society at Batavia, 222

Dutch policy in Java,
" trade vvith Japan,

Page 232
245

Eclipse, Hindoo observance of, 122
Edict, Chinese, 374
Education in Arabia, 87
Eggs, when eaten by the Cochin-
Chinese, 354
Elephant-tooth, articles made of
the, '204
Elephant-sword, 295
Elephant, the working, 208
Elephant, the mad white, 820
Elephants in Ceylon, 171
" procession of, 321
white, 321
" spotted, 322
Elephanta Island, 138
" caves of, 139
Emerald Boudha, 323
English, kindness of the, 371
Enterprise, U. S. Schooner, 19
" officers of the, 551
Exchange, rate of, at Batavia, 241
Experiments of Van den Bosch, 238
Exports from Ceylon, 179
Faces, painting those of children
at Zanzibar, 39
Factories at Canton, 893
Fast-boat, 385
Feast at Packnam, 273
Feet of Chinese women, 404
Fish, eaten raw at the Sandwich
Islands, 458
fattening of, 463
great quantities at Muscat, 75
places of resort of, 24
diet, effects of, 24
the porcupine, 22
the sucking, 24
Fishing of sharks, 24
Floating Islands, 257
Formosa, island of, 437
Fuel, material used for, at Bom
bay, 119
Funeral at sea, 451
Gambling in Siam, 235
Gamelan, 235
Games, suppression of, in the
Sandwich Isles, 485
Garden in Java, 230
Gold, Siamese manufacture of, 328
Government of Bombay, 107
Guinea worm, (disease of,) 105

556

index.

Haines, S. B. Captain, letter from, 61
Hair, mode of dying, 29
Halil bin Hammet, 78
Hamira's house, 40
Hamira's notions of polygamy, 41
Harem at Bankok, 304
Hassan, Captain, 28
" house of, 37
Head-hunting in Borneo, 255
Hindoo new-year, 100
Hindoos, costume, 119
" females, 119
religion, 148
" gods of the, 148
Hindoo temple, 122
" observance of an eclipse, 122
" devotee, 122
" state desired by the, 123
Holuthuria physalis, 20
Holwah, (a sweetmeat,) 75
Homeward voyage, 548
Hongs, 394
Honolulu, harbor of, 453
" town of, ' 453

India, (British) stipendiary

princes of.

111

" subsidiary

princes of.

112

" feudatory cliiefs, 113

India, British,

115

Infanticide,

481

Islands— Comoro,

25

" Zanzibar,

26

" Pemba,

53

Tumbat,

26

" Mazeira,

61

" Bombay,

104

" Elephanta,

138

" Salsette,

142

" Ceylon,

163

" Java,

235

" Banka,

252

" Sumatra,

252

" Borneo,

253

" Si-chang,

259

Pulo Oby,

848

" Pulo Condore,

349

" Formosa,

437

" Bonin,

438

Sandwich,

452

Janthina,

21

Japan, Dutch trade with,

245

Japanese at Macao,

383

Java, posting in,

227

Java, island of,
" population of,
" history of,
" government of,
" products of,
Javan costume,
" prince,
" music,
" krises.

Page
[235 235 236 237
244 219233
234234

Kenery, caves of, 143
Khunger, 41
Khon paa, 294
King of Siara, titles of the, 289
" audience with the, 330
" person of the, 382
" mode of convers
ing with the, 333
" presents to tbe, 843
King of the Sandwich islands, ¦458
Koran, verses of, affixed to the
doors in Zanzibar, 38
" great respect shown to
the, 42
Kjrises, 234
Lagor, king of, 326
Laos organ, 295
Language, the Anglo-Chinese, 896
Lapidaries at Colombo, 204
Lawatias, tribe and town of, 78
Letter, Arab mode of folding, 41
" from Captain Haines, 61
" from the Sultan of Mus
cat, 65
•' from Commodore Ken
nedy, 65
" from Mr. Roberts, 89
" to the P'hra Klang, 258
" to the King of the Sand
wich Isles, 498
" to Kinau, the high chief
of Oahu, 500
from Mr. Larned, .543
" from the American mer
chants at Lima, 544
" from Commodore Bal
lard, 546
Lingii, 141
Living at Bombay, 101
" at Batavia, 220
" at Canton, 394
Lottery at Bankok, 285
Luiiu, 462
Luck-loi-nam, the child of the
waters, 279

INDEX.

557

Pago
Macao, 378
history of, 878
" Portuguese population
of, 379
" morals of, 380
" climate of, 380
" aviary at, 380
" cave of Camoens, 881
Malays, 219
Mangustin, 215
Mangouste, 160
Manufactures from elephants'
teeth, 204
Market of dogs and cats, 898
Matchlock, 81
" mode of charging, 32
Mazatlan, climate of, 521
Mazatlan, town of, 522
Mazeira, island of, 61
Measurement of the Maria
Theresa, 829
Measures of Siam, 286
Medusa porpita, 20
Meinam river, entrance to, 263
" voyage up tbe, 274
Meleagrina Margaritifera, 187
Mendenhall, J. D., death of, 451
Merchants of Siara, 281
Mexico and the Mexicans, 539
Mission house at Bankok, 276
Missionary school at Bombay, 124
Missionaries at Bombay, charac
ter of, 127
at Ceylon, 187
" at Batavia, 232
" at Bankok, 810
" " reasons
for changing their residence, 313
Missionaries at the Sandwich
Islands, 464
Missionary hymn, 476
Missions in California, 607
Mode of burying at Zanzibar, 34
Molusca, sailors fishing for, 20
Momfanoi, " the Prince of hea
ven," 262
" visit to, 292
palace of, 293
dinner with, 296
" character of, 297
Money table of Siam, 286
Monte-rey, harbor of, 505
" trade of, 506
Mortality in Ceylon, 166
" at Batavia, 224
Moutrah, town of, '^5

Page
Muscat, approach to, 67
" climate of, 67
" harbor of, 68
" description of, by a sailor, 72
" commerce of, 83
" coins of, 87
" departure from, 97
Museum at Colombo, 162
Naiheanaina, the Princess, 460
Napier, Lord, in China, 387
Navy of the Sultan of Muscat, 85
New year, Hindoo celebration
of the, 100
Nobility, Siamese badges of, 803
Nonparel, 121

Oahu, arrive at.

452

" climate of.

456

" soil of.

456

" products of.

456

" civilization of.

457

Officers of the boat of ceremony, 271
Oil mill at Zanzibar, 39
Oil, cocoanut, 39
Oil of cinnamon, 208
Oil of cloves, 207
Opium, consumption of, in China, 386
Orders, mode of conveying at sea, 19
Organ of Laos, 295

Paddy mill.

267

Paknam,

264

" Governor of.

265,325

" lodgings at.

268

" feast at.

273

Palace of the Sultan of Muscat
at Zanzibar, 32
Palanquin, 99
Palanquin-carriage, 206
Parsee bible, 133
Parsees, creed of the, 132
" character of the, 133
" history of the, 137
" female costume, 134
Parel, 121
Peacock, U. S. Ship, 12
" " on shorfe, 55
Pearl River, 390
Pearl banks, 193
Pearl fishing, 194
Pearl divers, 198, 200
Pearl fishery, value of, 196
Pearls of Barhein, 82
Pearls, composition of, 192
Pearls, extrication of, 200

558

index.

Page

Page

Pearls, formation of.

191

Sampans at Bankok,

278

Pearl oysters, •

187

San Bias,

626

Pearl oysters, supposed origin of, 188

Sandwich Islands,

478

Pearl oysters, habits of,

189

Sandwich Islands, population

Pearl oysters, age of,

1^

of the.

479

Pedlars at Bombay,

128

Sandwich Islands, government

Pedlars, aquatic.
154
of the.
486
Pemba, Island of.
53
Sandwich Islands, commerce
Phrenology at Zanzibar,
52
of the.
488
" at Bankok,
297
Sandwich Islands, treaty with
" at Canton,
418
the.
492
Phya Ratsa-pa-vade, visit to,
303
School at Zanzibar,
42
Phya Si-pi-pat, 307, .308
Sea, phosphorescence of the.
53
Piadade,
266
Sea, love of the.
13
Pilot, Chinese,
370
Sea-sickness, treatment of.
13
Pilot at Zanzibar,
27
Seid Carlid, the prince.
33
Pirates, shells so called, 448, .53
Serpent-charmers,
131
Pirates, Chinese,
437
Shark-charmers,
199
Policy of the Dutch in Java,
232
Shark-fishery,
24
Poor of India,
121
Shark, mode of catching.
23
Portuguese men-of-war, 20, 21
Shawls of Cashmere,
135
Posting in Java,
227
Shells, hunting for.
447
Poultry of Cochin-China,
364
Ship on shore near Mazeira,
64
" of Acapulco,
638
Shuttlecock, played with the
Prayer, Mohammedan ob
feet.
300
servance of.
86
Siam, commerce of.
280
Presents to the Sultan of Muscat, 91
" revenue of.
'282
Presents to the King of Siam,
343
" tajfes in,
•284
Press at Bombay,
102
" gambling in.
285
Pulo Oby,
348
" weights and measures.
286
Pulo Condore, '
349
" extent of.
288
" King's titles.
289
Earn parts at Colombo,
162
" government of.
289
Rank, distinction of, in Siam,
303
" debtors how treated in.
289
Religion at Bombay,
118
" religion of.
290
Religion, women's influence
" throne of.
292
upon.
126
" library of.
323
Religion of the Hindoos,
148
" history of.
336
" of the Siamese,
290
" treaty witb.
340
Religious signs at Bombay,
132
" rice not exported from.
S44
Repository, the Chinese,
389
" departure firom.
347
Rice, not to be exported from
" white animals of.
348
Siam,
844
Siamese, physical character
Right and wrong, the sense of.
481
of the.
299
Rio de Janeiro, harbor of,
15
Siamese, the moral character
" departure from.
, 19
cf the.
300
River Meinam,
263
Siamese book.
260
Roberts, Edmund, death of.
•373
" twins.
268
Rosary of the Mohammedans,
38
" attention.
270
" merchants.
280
Salsette, Island of.
142
trade.
282
" Caves of.
143
" measure of time.
287
Salt, tax on.
172
" badges of nobility.
303
Sandals, Arabian,
29
ladies,
305
" removed to show respect, 40
" sign of friendship.
307
559

Page
Siamese manners, effects of, 809
" Princess, costume ofa, 324
" Prince, costume of a, 324
" curiosity, 328
" etiquette, 328
Si-chang island, 2.59
Sia-Yut'hia, 320
Slave market at Zanzibar, 34
Sleep, profound of the crew, 60
Smith, Captain, .511
Society at Colombo, 209
" at Macao, 383
" at Cant6n, 395
Sowalies, 46
Squirrels, white, 260
St. Thomas' Church, 117
Sugar, export of, from Java, 239
Sultan of Muscat, kindness of
the, 63, 64
Sultan ofMuscat, letter from the, 65
" officers visit the, 68
" extent of his
dominions, 81
Sultan of Muscat, title of the, 84
" history of the, 84
" character of the, 85
" take leave of the, 88
" English Admi
ral, and the, 103
Sumatra, pepper ports of, 2-52
Sunda, Straits of, 214
Swan-pan, 899
Swords, comparison of, at Zan
zibar, 40

Page
Titles of the King of Siam, 289
Time, Siamese measure of, 287
Tobacco, the use of, 538
Toddy, 45
Tortillas, 532
Trade with Java, 240
Trade, Dutch with Japan, 245
Trappers, 510
Treaty with Muscat, 91
Treaty with Siam, delivery of the
American copy of the, 319
Treaty with Siam, delivery of the
Siamese copy of the, 335
Treaty with Siam,, 840
Treaty with Siam, defect in the, 344
Treaty with Cochin-China, 357
Treaty with the Sandwich
Islands, 492
Treaty with Mexico, 506
Trees, dwarfed, 403
Turon bay, 849
Turtle-hunting, 443
Tutenague, 401

Talapoins, (priests,) 290, 814
Tax on salt, 172
Taxes in Siam,
Taxes in the Sandwich Isles,
Tayef, Tea, cultivation of in Java,
Tea-garden, Cantdn,
Tea, history of.
Tea-plant,Temperature is not climate,
Tepic, ride to,
Tepic, city of.
Theatricals in Siam,
Theft, Siamese mode of detecting, 301
Throne of Siam, succession to the, 293

284 487 49
231 403405 406252 527 633316

Upas plant, 230
Venom of the Cobra, 161
Venus dione, 526
Waterloo Square, Batavia, 222
Watering at Zanzibar, 33
Watering at Muscat, 75
wat P'hra-si-ratanat, 322
wat, the Queen's, 323
Weaving at Muscat, 77
Wells at Zanzibar, 39
Wells at Muscat, 74
Wives, expense of in Arabia, 73
Xalisco, 534
Zanzibar, Island of, 26
" Owen's chart of, 27
" vegetable products of, 44
" position of, 44
" climate of, 46
" population of 46
harbor of, 34
" commerce of, 47
Zebu, 46

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