'- Deposited by the Linonian and Brothers Library ffl^»^^^HWHWJiiw-i-.j IMPRESSIONS OP AMERICA; DURING THE YEARS 1833, 1834, AND 1835. TYRONE POWER, ESQ. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. PHILADELPHIA: -v'- CAREY, LEA & BLAKCHARD. 1836. Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1836, by Cabet, Lea & Blanchabd, in the Clerk's Ofifice of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. IlIPRE8l$IOi\S OF A]nERICA. nahant. This rocky peninsula is truly a very wild and un- world-like little territory, jutting boldly out as it does into the mighty bay of Massachusetts, and command ing a view of its whole extent, from Cape Cod to Cape Anne, together with the many islands, towns, and villages scattered along the coast; whilst in front spreads out the Atlantic Ocean. To sit within the upper gallery of this house upon the cliff, and watch the rising moon fling her golden bridge from the far horizon's edge, until it seems to rest upon the beach below, is a sight which would be worth something in a poet or a painter's eyes. I never, either in the East or in the Mediterranean, beheld any thing exceed in colour the glory of these evening skies, or their depth by night. Round about, near to the edge of the cliffs, are scattered a number of dwellings, built in the style of the southern cot tage, having low projecting eaves covering a broad gallery which usually encircles the building: these are objects upon which the eye is pleased to rest when the moon deepens their shadows on the barren rock. One or two of the highest and most conspicuous points, whether viewed from the land or the sea, have been very properly selected for buildings, 4 NAHANT. whose uses, however humble, admitted of classic form. -Beneath the roof of a temple to Minerva, built upon the extreme eastern point of the lofty headland, may befound the billiard-table of the hotel, lower down, the little edifice containing a range of baths is entered by a Doric portico. The proportions of these buildings are in good taste; the chaste cold moon clothes them in grace and beauty; and for the material, what matters it, when, by her light, paint ed pine may be fancied Parian marble! The cliff it self is a very Leu cad ia, and as well fitted for a leap as love-sick heart could seek: but there are no Sapphos novv-a-days; the head of Nahant is likely to remain un-be-rhymed. A little way to the northward lies a small steep island, between which and the main land the " sar- fvaX," par excellence has been seen more than once rushing along at the rate of a steamboat, with a horned face uplifted some fifty feet above the waves, and a beard blowing about his ears like the tail of a comet. This account I had from more than one credulous witness: certain it is, if Sarpint be fond of fish, he is no bad judge in selecting this as a residence; for about this same island there are abundance and va riety, both to be met with at all hours, as I can testi fy, having sat in a punt, hearing a wary eye for hours at a stretch, and catching all sorts of things except a sight of the "sarpint." The nights here are indeed delicious, calm and cool, with air as soft as velvet; during the day, for about two hours after meridian, owing to the absence of all shade without, one is compelled, although the sea-breeze does its best, to keep the house, or else get outside the bay of Boston, away from the land; this I was afforded frequent opportunities of doing, in a very pretty schooner-yacht called the Sylph, which Mr. F ^s had down here. She was about eighty tons' burden, capitally appointed, and with rare qualities as a sea-boat; in her I had, the happiness to pass many days, when the poor people on shore MARBLEHEAD. 5 were pitiably grilled, cruising for cod-fish, and dish ing them up into a sort of soup called chowder; this formed, in fact, the one great object of my present life, and I availed myself of every occasion to pur sue it. ;, One of my pleasantest cruises was made with Cap tain H—^ d, in an armed schooner called the Hamil ton, attached to the United States' revenue service. We ran- down the coast as far as Portsmouth, and on our return passed a night within the snugly enclosed harbour of Marblehead; into which a couple of our cruisers chased an American frigate during the last war, and threatened to fetch her out again, but thought better of it, after putting the natives to a great deal of inconvenience through their anxiety to provide a suit able welcome for the strangers. Here we landed, and looked about the place : the air was somewhat fishy, but, judging by the ruddy complexions of the people, must be exceedingly salu brious. It is not unlike some of the French fishing- towns on the coast of Normandy, and has an old look that pleased me much. The place is said to have been originally settled by a colony of fishers from Guernsey, whose descendants are found still to retain many of the customs of the islands, and some words of the patois in use there. The population is famous for industry, and for the summary rnode with which they dispense justice amongst themselves on points of local polity affecting the general weal. One instance was fresh enough in memory to be talked of still. A townsman, returning from the Banks with a cargo, passed a vessel in a sinking state, turning a blind eye- to their repeated anxious signals. Contrary to all expectation, the crip pled bark, after being given up as lost, reached the harbour, and the conduct of the hard-hearted skipper was made public. He was seized inslanier, triced up, served out with a dozen or two well told, covered with tar, clothed in feathers, and in this plight was carted about the boundaries of the township, having a label hung about his neck that described his crime VOL. II. 2 6 MARBLEHEAD. and sentence in good set rhymes, which ran as fol lows: " This here's old John Hoi-t, That for his hard heart I4 tar-ed and featl\er-ed. And carry-ed in this cart." This occurs to me as being the best practicable il lustration of "poetical justice" I ever heard of, and an example not likely to be lost upon a maritime peo ple. It was about dusk when we landed ; and I was at first greatly surprised by the numbers of pretty and neatly-dressed women we encountered strolling about, or chatting together in groups, wholly unattended by the other sex. I was quickly reminded, however, that at this season of the year the husbands, lovers, and sons of the community are mostly absent in their ves sels fishing on the banks of Newfoundland, and not returnable under ten or twelve weeks. I cannot help observing that it does infinite credit to the moderation of these ciloyennes that they forbear from taking the sovereign rule into their own hands at these times, since assuredly they possess the power of numbers to enforce submission, were^the resident housekeepers hardy enough to offer resistance. ¦ Early on the morning of next day the Hamilton was once more under weigh ; we beat along the coast for some distance, then got before the wind, and, after peeping into the harbours of Salem and Gloucester, bore up for Nahant : when yet distant some five miles from our destined port, the wind fell at ond; start- calm, without much promise of a breeze till evening ; a light gig, however, and four stout hands, soon set us on shore within the shadow of the temple of Minerva, and concluded a very pleasant cruise. A steamboat daily plies between this place and Bos ton : many persons come down here for an hour or two, and return on the same evening ; a game of nine pins and a dinner of fine fish, with advantages of fresh NAHANT. air and a temperature comparatively cool, heing the inducements. The resident families are not numerous, but appear to mix sociably ; and, what with a drive or ride upon the fine beach between this and Lynn, a sail in the harbour, or a ramble amongst the rude crags by which the place is environed, find means diversified enough of killing the enemy. For my part, I am pleased with the place ; and were it not that my incarnate foes have chosen, contrary to established custom, to make an inroad here, my satisfaction would be cortlplete. But, as it is, they have at length once more prevailed over my patience : with my eyes nearly swollen up and my hands miserably blistered, I find farther re sistance too painful, therefore have decided upon flight after a fortnight's residence. One of the preparations for my comfort, at the din ner-table of Mr. P s, with whose amiable family I have latterly dined, was a cup of rose-water and eau de Cologne, with patches of the rice paper of Chi na, wherewith to allay the intolerable itching that at tends the puncture of these winged leeches, whose Voracity is incredible. I have at times caught a vil lain in the act, and watched with patience until from one of the veins of the hand he had drunk blood enough to blow out his little carcass to the shape of a tennis-ball, when he would poise himself upon his long legs, and, spreading his wings, make an effort to rise, but in vain ; bloated and unwieldy, his wings refused to sustain him ; his usual activity was gone, and there he stood disgustingly helpless, incapacitated by sheer glutton^. In the first week of August I bade adieu to the rocks of Nahant, and for the last time drove over the beach to Lynn. Not having received any letters during my residence on the little peninsula — which, it appears, is out of'the circuit of the post-office depart ment — I called at the establishment of Lynn to make inquiry whether or no any letters had been forwarded here : the young man in attendance " guessed" that NAHANT. there had been one or two, may be ; but if there was, the stage-driver had had them. Now there being a feud between the said driver and the hotel I lodged in, my ever getting my letters appears a doubtful mat ter: however, "I guess" I'll try. THE BALLOON. TAUNTON. —COTTON MANUFACTURES.— POCASSETT. — HHODE ISLAND. On arriving at Boston, I found the whole city in movement to assist, as the French say, in the ascent of a balloon, constructed by a Mr. Durant, already well known as an experienced and intrepid aeronaut. Purchasing a ticket for the Amphitheatre, a lofty temporary enclosure "with rows of seats running round it, I fell into the crowd, and made my way across the common at the extremity of which the building in question was situated. Although the day was hot and bright, there was a very stro^ig southerly wind blowing ; and rolling away to the north-east, heavy masses of cloud passed over the sun like snow-drifts, promising a rapid .flight for the balloon. This common, flanked as it is by the finest residences of the city, the Bostonians often compare with our Hyde Park. Its surface is broken and irregular, and on this day the whole area was alive with expectant gazers ; whilst the several lines of streets leading into it were thronged with hurrying re-enforcements. Selecting a point of vantage, I stood for some time examining the materials out of which this vast con gregation was made up, and I have never seen a po pulation w^hose general appearance would endure so close a scrutiny as well. I computed that the women outnumbered their less 2* 10 THE BALLOON. attractive companions by at least a third: these were all in holid'ay trim, of course; invariably well dressed, but commonly having a pretension to taste and style I have never elsewhere observed so universally preva lent amongst the same class. ' The men, both in air and dress, were inferior to their female friends ; so much so that it was difficult to imagine them belong ing to the same order : and this remark, I think, will be found to apply generally throughout the Union. It is not difficult to account for this discrepancy: a love of adornment is natural to women ; the general prosperity which prevails here enables all classes to indulge a taste for dress, whilst the leisure enjoyed by females gives them facilities for acquiring those little aids by which gay attire is disposed and set off to the , best advantage. After a time I slowly made my way to the Amphi theatre, presented my ticket and was admitted Within the enclosure, where the arrangements for the flight were in busy progress. The inflation was nearly complete, and the huge machine rolled about from side to side uneasily abiding the restraint which alone prevented its imme diate ascent. It was covered by the netting com monly used ; and about this a number of volunteer as sistants clung, restraining the balloon whilst the aero naut made all his little arrangements. The car was a small wicker basket; its cargo con sisted of a few bags of sand for- the ballast, a baro meter, and a couple of small kedges with lines to match. I had no idea a balloon could be brought up, all standing, by so small a cable. I observed Mr. Durant devoted no small attention to the disposition of a little fellow-passenger he pur posed giving a lift to, — a rabbit, muzzled and netted within a small basket, which, being appended to a parachute, was destined to come from aloft with the latest lunar intelligence. Chance, however, roibed the rabbit of the honour of performing this desperate service ; for as the balloon was about to mount, the pipe bound within the neck of the valve was hy some THE BALLOON. 11 unlucky pull withdrawn, and, before this could be re inserted, so much gas had escaped it became neces sary to make a proportionate diminution in the freight The rabbit was at once detached from the car, evi dently chagrined at the disappointment; judging by the resistance it made ; and several bags 'of ballast, together with such stores as might be best spared, were also discharged. During all this time, and the bustle consequent upon the accident, Mr. Durant preserved the most admira ble coolness; and, having stopped the leak, next set about repairing bis fractured netting with infinite quickness and dexterity. On a second attempt he rose in good style, loudly cheered by the spectators within the Amphitheatre ; but no sooner had he cleared its wall than the shout of the people arose. Making a stoop almost to iheir heads, he discharged the greater part of the remain ing ballast, and mounting again, was borne away to the eastward with great rapidity. The crowd dis persed immediately, but the whole afternoon was filled by the accounts constantly arriving of the route, and the probable result. Report was at an early hour brought that the machine had been seen to alight in the ocean, about sixteen miles north-east at Na hant, where it sank in sight of several schooners, taking its pilot down with it. Soon after it was af firmed that a Portland steamer had rescued the man, and that the balloon alone was drowned. In this state of uncertainty the public continued until about nine o'clock next morning, at which hour Mr. Durant walked into the hall of the Tremont, where numbers of persons were arguing his probable fate. After the greeting of his friends was over, he gave a very particular and interesting account of the peril he had been j-pscued from. It appeared that the aerial part of his voyage had terminated, as was re ported, in the Atlantic, some miles off Nahant. Sus tained by an inflated girdle, he hung on to the balloon, and was dragged after it at no small rate for some 12 THE BALLOON. time, until a schooner falling in with the strange sail, gave chase, and overhauled the queer craft As soon as the schooner got alongside, a Hne was flung to the aeronaut, which he, sohcitous to save his machine as well as himself, made fast to the car, and bade them hoist away : the first hearty pull lifted the balloon from the waves, when, the wind catching it, up it mounted. The line to which it was fastened chanced to bathe topsail halliards; and wisk! before a belay could be passed, up flew poor Mr. Durant high over the vessel's mast: after hanging on for a mo ment, his strength failed, and down he plumped from an elevation of some hundred and fifty feet back into the sea. How deep he dived, or for what length of time he remained below amongst the codling, he did not say, not having calculated " the sum of his sensa tion to a second :" but he readily " guessed" he would no-how admire such another tumble. His resolution, however, was nothing abated; for he immediately began to repair his balloon, and make ready for a new " sail i' the air." The day "following the return of the adventurous balloonist, I left Boston, accompanied by my friend Captain B n, taking the land route for Newport, Rhode Island. Our vehicle was a Jersey wagon, with a couple of capital ponies; we started early, breakfasted at a good road-side inn, and reached the town of Taunton about mid-day, where we halted to let the heat of the sun pass over, and dine. We took a stroll about the little town, which is fa mous for its cotton manufactures; and were pleased to observe every symptom of prosperity that might be outwardly exhibited, — a well-dressed population, houses remarkably clean and neat, with much bustle in the streets. The military mania, which pervades the whole country, we also saw here exhibited in a way really quite amusing, and by a class to whom it would be well were it confined, since the display was more becoming in them than in any less precocious corps of volunteers I remember to have seen. Whilst standing in the shade of our hotel, the rattle ROAD IMPRESSIONS. 13 of drums gave note of some display of war; an event of daily occurrence during this season of the year throughout these northern States, where playing at soldiers is one of the choicest amusements.' Captain B n asked a stander-by what volunteer corps was farading to-day: " Why, I don't rightly know; but guess it may be the Taunton Juvenile Democratic Lancers." Our informant was quite right ; for whilst, puzzled by the gravity of the man, I was considering whe ther or no he meant a hoax by the style which he bestowed upon the gallant corps, into the square it marched, with drums» beating and colours flying. The colonel commanding was a smart little fellow, about twelve years old, dressed in a fancy uniform jacket, and ample linen cossacks; his regiment mus tered about forty rank and file, independent of a nu merous and efficient staff; they were in full uniform ; most of them were about the colonel's age, some of the cornets perhaps a trifle younger, as became their station: they were armed with lances; and their motto was most magnanimous, being all about glory, death, liberty, and democracy. Nothing could be more steady than the movements of this corps on foot; and, when mounted, I have no doubt they prove as highly efficient a body as any volunteer lancer ca valry in the Union. This could not be called " teaching the young idea how to shoot," since the corps only bore I'arme blanche; but it was highly creditable to the waggery of the citizens of Taunton,^and the most efficient bur lesque upon the volunteer system I had yet seen, although I have encountered many more elaborately gotten up. Whilst we were devising some means of visiting the principal manufactory, a gentleman -entered our room, and introducing himself said, that, having re cognised me in the street, he had called to know if he could be of any service in showing myself and friend the only lions of the place, — its manufactories. This act of politeness, which I have found a com- 14 ROAD IMPRESSIONS. mon occurrence in every part of the Union, at once relieved us from our difficulty, and off we set in com pany with our civil guide to visit the largest depot of the place. . The designs of the printed cottons, and the colours, both struck me as being exceedingly good; in tex ture, however, I did not conceive any of the cloths equal to similar stuffs which I had seen at home in manufacturing towns. One of the partners informed me that they supplied large quantities of goods to the markets both of India and of South America: the manufacturer's chief drawback, he said, was found in the cost of labour: indeedf judging by the dress and neat appearance of the young women employed here, they must be exceedingly well paid : a compa rison drawn between them and the same class of employees in England would be singularly in favour of the Taunton " Maids of the Mill." The cool time of the day being come, we once more had our active ponies put to, and away they went as eager to " go a-head " as on our first start From this place to Pocassett the ride was lovely : our road lay high above the river ; and, over the luxuriant fo liage, topsail-schooners, large sloops, and other craft, were seen working their different courses, some bound -up, others to Providence, Newport, or the ports on the coast A few miles from the town we came upon a small clearing hy the road-side, evidently in use as a place of burial, and nothing ever struck me as more ne glected ; a few decayed boards, with an ill-shaped falling head-stone or two, were all the prosperous living had bestowed upon their departed kindred. This neglect of those httle decencies with which, amongst most people, places of sepulture are sur rounded, is a thing of common observance in this part of the Union, and is one of the reproaches readily no ticeable by all strangers. The distinction in this re spect between the North and South is remarkable, and highly creditable to the feelings of the latter. By the time we reached Pocassett it was nearly ROAD IMPRESSIONS. 13 dark, and here we settled for the night, having driven the ponies fifty odd miles, without their being in the least distressed, and on a day of no ordinary fervor. In the evening we attended a book sale, and were much amused by the volubility and humour of the Yankee salesman, who, with his coat off in a close crowded room, lectured upon the merits of the au thors he offered, whether poetical, religious, histori cal, mathematical, or political, with equal ease and graces greatly to the edification of the by-standers. The editions were chiefly American, made to sell, and thus exceedingly cheap. History and novels ap peared to be the literature in demand ; and Walter Scott, Byron, and . Bulwer, the names most familiar in the verbal catalogue galloped over by the " learned gentleman," as our auctioneer advertisements have it The hotel here was remarkably neat and clean; we procured an excellent cup of tea, and next morning found a most substantial breakfast. After seeing the population assemble for church, and walking about the banks of the river, which are very beautiful, we about noon set out for our final destination, over a vil- lanous, rough road, reached Rhode Island, by the long substantial causeway connecting it with the main land, and from this point we had a good turnpike, pulling up at Newport by two o'clock. The public dinner was already over, being Sab bath; but the proprietor of our hotel, a worthy Qua ker named Potter, got us a very comfortable meal at five o'clock, according to our wishes: mean time we rid ourselves of the accumulated dust of two days, and were comfortably established in out-quarters, the hotel being full. 16 NEWPORT. RHODE ISLAND. The appearance of Newport is much less imposing, as approached by land, than when viewed from the noble.harbour over which it looks. It consists of one long line of close-built, narrow streets running paral lel with the water about the base of the steep hill, with many others climbing up its side. It is indif ferently paved, and has a very light soil; so that upon the least land-breeze the lower town is filled with the dust, which is blown about in clouds. Before the revolution, Newport was a city of com parative importance, and indeed, whilst the importa tion of slaves continued a part of the trade of the country, held its own with the most thriving cities of the east coast, through the great advantage it de rived from its easy harbour, but with the abolition of that traffic came the downfal of its prosperity; for having no back country by the exportation of whose produce it might sustain itself, it was speedily desert ed by the mercantile community, and its carrying trade usXirped by Providence, although the latter is situated some thirty miles higher up the river. A railroad from Boston through the wealthy manufac turing districts might nevertheless, I should imagine, bestow upon this place the supremacy which the dif ficulty of land-carriage alone has withheld from it Its grea't natural advantage to visiters is the charm ing climate with which it is favoured, owing to its NEWPORT. 17 being on all sides surrounded by deep water: this is a point that cannot be changed by a decree in Con gress, or removed by order of the Board of Trade, and likely to be of more use to the place, if made the most of, than the dock-yard and depot which they seek to establish. If the English plan was adopted, and small snug cottages built and furnished for the use of families resorting here, these families would naturally quit the arks in which they are now congregated, and live each after the manner of its kind, as all wise animals do; in which case, I cannot any where imagine a more charming abode, or one possessing superior ad vantages. The general aspect of the neighbourhood puts me in mind of the Lothians; whilst some of the rides amongst the shady lanes, through whose high, loose hedge-rows glimpses were constantly occurring of the sea and rocky shore, were not unworthy,a com parison with portions of that Eden of our western coast the Isle of Wight The harbour of Newport is of vast extent, easy of entrance, and perfectly secure from all the winds that blow: its advantages in the event of a naval war must ultimately render it the chief general depot of these States. The government appears quite sensible of the policy of rendering this noble station perfectly secure in good season: a series of defences, of first- rate importance, are in a course of erection which, when completed, it is supposed will render the har bour impregnable to any attempt from the sea. To Fort Adams, the roUgh-work of which is completed, I paid more than one visit; and nothing can be more substantially put together. The necessity of a dock-yard of the first order be ing established at this point appears to have been loivg and warmly pressed upon the administration by all naval men who have considered the subject: want of money, the great stumbling-block of a cheap go vernment, has hitherto prevented the plan being car- vox.. II. 8 18 NEWPORT. lied into execution; but is imagined that this will not be delayed much longer, after the defences are com pleted. Since the decease of the gallant Perry, this has ceased to be a naval station; during the last years of his life heboid a command here, which was al most nominal. I visited the place where Perry lies buried beneath a simple obelisk of granite: few heroes appear to have lived so universally loved as was the Conqueror of the Lakes. His short but brilliant career, added to his youth and remarkable personal beauty, made hira the idol of the people; whilst his generous disposition and winning manners rendered him the delight of his friends. I never heard the name of this officer mentioned without eulogium, rningled with regret for his premature death. My condition here is enviable enough: I have a pleasant room, with a fig-tree growing before my window, beneath which Captain B n and my self breakfast daily, well shaded from sun and dust; not a moscheto disputes possession with us; and the dinner-table at the "Pottery" is well served enough, and graced by several very handsome women. Here is another large hotel near to us, which, from its high'bare walls and numerous windows, we have named the "Factory;" and -a sort of rivalry may be said to exist between the "Pottery girls" and those of this "Factory." The amusements consist of scan dal, bathing, riding, with an occasional boating party, but the men are not enterprising, otherwise the fa cilities for little pic-nics and country excursions abound. The ladies, who have monopolized all the spirit here, contrive frequently to get up little hops at one house or other, and these are conducted with much gaiety and good huj:nour; albeit, parties hold each other at a wary distance, and, although living in comm.on beneath the same roof, have classifications made upon principles which have hitherto eluded my penetration, and are too numerous to be easily defined by the most accomplished master of the ce- NEWPORT. 19 remonies Margate ever boasted. The laws of oar exclusives, however incomprehensible, are, as'else- where, arbitrary; and the votary of fashion must be content blindfold to follow the despotic goddess, or quit her ranks. Whilst here, T had observed for some time an ad vertisement setting forth that on a certain day a steam-boat would make an excursion to Block Island. This I resolved to join: first, because any change was desirable which might kill a day; and next, because I knew the place had been a sort of station whereat our squadron managed to hang on during the war, although singularly wild and harbourless. 20 BLOCK ISLAND. Early in the morning, the steamer employed in this service quitted Providence with a full live cargo; and at Newport it brought up for about an hour, during which time several recruits, myself amongst the number, joined her. It blew fresh from about east by south; and, in consequence, no sooner had we cleared the harbour, than we were met by a heavy head-sea, and nothing was to be seen on all sides but sickness, and the mi sery consequent upon the dilapidation of the pretty caps and bonnets of the fair Providencials. Never waa^ a party oi pieasuf^-seeiiers in a i'nore wu-oe- gone plight than was this of ours when we arrived in the open roadstead of the most inhospitable-look ing shores of Block Island. Before we could bring up, the boats of the natives, apprized of our purpose, surrounded the ship, offer ing, for a consideration of about a quarter dollar per head, to land us upon their territory. The boats were presently filled; and from the larger ones, after they had grounded on the beach, we were by degrees landed in skiffs. ,0n terra firma we encountered a few men in no outward way differing from the fishermen of the main, but with a confirmed craving after coin, which, however common to all civilized beings, is seldom so openly and importunately exposed as amongst these simple citizens. Boys of seventeen and eigh- fiLOCIt ISLAND. 21 leen years of age thought no shame to solicit a cent from the passing strangers, and were not readily got rid of. The island, over which I wandered in common with others of the goodly company of adventurers, presented one uniform view: a rolling surface, with out any considerable elevation; sea-bound, without a single harbour, or a village in the least attractive; half a dozen huts are scattered here and there in ir regular lines, indifferently built, and having no care bestowed in the way of out-door adornment; not a tree appears on the place, although in the sheltered situations I should imagine they would thrive: in short, a less attractive islet I never remember to have visited, or one so utterly divested of interest. The only pleasure I derived was from a view of the open roadstead, where our gallant ships used to ride out the hardest blows, much to the surprise of the na tives, who yet spoke of the event with wonder. Perhaps, on a visit like this, we did not see the best sample of this isolated community: I hope not, for their sake; for our followers had a greedy, over reaching air and manner really disgusting, and in all our little transactions exhibited a sordid grasping propensity one could not expect to meet with in a people so out of the world, and who are in the pos session of great plenty: their island yields abundance of corn and common vegetables, Ihe sea upon their shores is famous for the quantity and quality of its fish, and therefore is this grasping spirit a matter o some marvel. I found all my American fellow-voj"" agers who had been on shore, equally struck with the singularity of our reception, and especially mor tified at the exhibition of pauperism never to be met with upon the main. I passed two years in Ameri ca, and tbe,Q.oly place where re'vef was rmpof tuned- by a native beggiu'.was at this jgj^nd. Our voyage back was quickly-accomplished, being before the wind, but the rolling of the vessel occasioned jiafac«joo of the morning's scene, any thingbut pleasant, 22 BLOCK ISLAND. crowded as we were. This was my very first attempt at a "steam-boat excursion," the allurementsof which ?U'e