CRUISE

OE THE

U. S.§. "GALENA'
(THIRD HATE),

EROM

AUGUST 26, 1880, TO MARCH 31, 1883

BY

MELTON & OLIPHANT.

E£jcL

SlS^M

Ihurros %xxi% ;
'einted by Lowe, Anderson & C<
117— Calle San Martin — 117
1883

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

IN MEMORY OF
ARTHUR STURGES HILDEBRAND
YALE 1910

FROM THE FUND ESTABLISHED BY
ELEANOR COXE GIBSON
IN 1926

CRUISE

OE THE

TJ.S.S. 'GALENA"
(THIRD RATE),

EROM

AUGUST 26, 1880, TO MARCH 31, 1883

BY
MELTON* & OLIPHANT. hfM,

^xunoB %xxtB :
Printed bt Lowe, Anderson & Co ,
117— Calle San Martin— 117
1883

EcA 883 M

TO
THE OFFICERS
AND CREW
OF THE IT. S. S. "GALENA'
THIS LITTLE VOLUME
IS
RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED

U. S. S. Galena (3rd rate).
Montevideo, Uruguay,
March 31st, 1883.

Diar Shipmates,-

It has been customary for men who have had to endure
the self-inflicted penance of writing a book, to make a preface,
or apologies for things they did not have the intuition to ob
serve, nor the capacity to represent. So, in launching ourselves
upon the stormy water of literature, we emulate their example
by embracing this little opportunity of " taking you out for a
walk." You all know the settled uncertainty of a man-of-war^
Ever and anon we have stolen a few moments of leisure to de
vote to the task laid before you. When, like Raphael's cherubs
with our elbows resting upon painted clouds of fancy, and com
placently viewing legions of smiling Madonnas and seraphic
forms dressed in the garments of apt metaphor or happy simile,
the Master-at-Arms would cry : " clear the berthdeck," up or
down something. In a moment, those bright forms, with sar
donic grins, would vanish into the blue ether, our elbows give
wav, and down we would tumble to mother Earth. After pick
ing ourselves up bruised and indignant, we would look with
sympathy into each other's eyes, and, with bated breath, simul
taneously utter the brief, expressive phrase of, " damn it !" "We
hope, dear friends, that where we have been deficient in orna
ment we have gained in truth. Kindly remember that " to
err is human ; to forgive, divine."
Very respectfully, Your obedient servants,
Melton and Oliphant.

CRUISE OF THE U.S.S. "GALENA"
(3rd RATE).

CHAPTER I.
_ The U. S. S. "Galena" (3rd rate), a corvette of
eight guns, went into commission, as a cruiser, by-
order of the Secretary of the Navy, on the 26th of
August, 1880. She was fitted out at the Norfolk
Navy Yard. Commander James O'Kaue, TJ. S. N.
was ordered to take command. The officers and
crew immediately reported on board, and, after
coaling and taking stores, she proceeded to Hamp
ton Roads to await orders. On the 17th of Sep
tember we received a visit from Commodore
Hughes, who expressed himself pleased with the
ship and ship's company. The Navy Department
having issued an order that the Galena be inspect
ed before going to sea, the Board of Inspectors, in
obedience thereto, inspected us on the morning of
the 20th of September. We were exercised at
" General Quarters," " torpedo drill," and, "man
ned and armed boats." The report of the Board
was favorable in every respect, with the exception
of her bottom, which was found in such a condi
tion that made it necessary to have it scraped be
fore going to sea. While at Hampton Roads the
North Atlantic Squadron came in, and we joined,
and participated with it in the drill and inspection
before President Hayes and the Secretary of the
Navy. Upon tli3 arrival of the President, the

8 CRUISE OF THE
yards were manned, and a salute was fired from the
flagships and Portress Monroe. The torpedo de
partment fired a salute of twenty-one sub-marine
torpedoes, sending columns of water high in air.
After the fleet evolutions, the Naval Brigade landed
and passed in review. We returned to the ship
tired, but satisfied that, although the Galena was
newly commissioned, she had passed through the
ordeal in a creditable manner ; and many were the
compliments paid her. At night, when the Pre
sident was leaving, the ships were beautifully illu
minated, looking as if fairy craft upon an enchant
ed lake. " There was a sound of revelry by night,"
for at the Hygeia Hotel a grand ball was given in
honor of the distinguished visitors. The pavilion
was brilliantly lighted, and the blue and gold of
the army and navy, the lovely costumes upon forms
more lovely still, and the plain but elegant dress-
suit of the civilian, combined together, formed a
subject suitable for an epic. There upon the floor
could be seen men distinguished, alike, upon the
quarter deck, at the forum, or in the halls of the
nation ; men whose names were as household words.
It continued until the " wee sma' hours, ayont the
twal," and the moon had risen upon the sleeping
fleet lying at anchor. We left Norfolk on the 13th
of November bound for Baltimore, where the ship
would be docked and her bottom scraped. The clay
was dark and dreary and the overburdened clouds
sent down rain and sleet upon us, making it in
tensely disagreeable. The Saratoga started with
us, but contrary winds soon caused us to part com
pany, as she was a sailing ship and therefore sub
servient ^ to wind and tide. On that trip our engines
were tried, and the result was satisfactory. We
arrived at Baltimore about 4.30 o'clock in the after
noon of the 14th of November, and moored ship.
As soon as possible the drydock was prepared for

TT.S.S. GALENA. 9
our reception. As soon as ready the Galena was
run in and work immediately commenced. It
proved upon examination that very little labor was
required to cleanse her, so forty eight hours after
wards she was taken from the dock, having been
thoroughly renovated. The weather was then bit
terly cold, but, notwithstanding, general liberty was
given, and our officers and men eagerly embraced
the opportunity of visiting our own lovely city of
Baltimore. The enjoyment was enhanced by the
probability of years going by before we would
again hear our own tongue spoken in our own
country. We visited all the places of interest,
climbed the mountain, and saw beautiful old Druid
Hill Park, where nature has been so lavish with
her bounties of forest and heather, of misty lakes in
shadowy valleys, she has left no room for the arti
ficial. Many foreigners think our American cities
uninteresting because they have no old ruins ; they
seem to forget that such would be our disgrace,
Avhere it is their honor. Old ivy-covered ruins un
der the pale moonlight are, no doubt, interesting,
but we prefer to see them in foreign lands. Our
cities are monuments of the progressive future, not
tombstones of the dead past. We left Baltimore
on the 26th of November, but we were compelled to
come to anchor at night, as a blinding snowstorm
made it dangerous to continue on. The next morn
ing we were again underway, and arrived at Hamp
ton Roads about six o'clock in the evening. While
riding peacefully at anchor, suddenly the cry of
"all hands repel boarders," burst upon our aston
ished ears. Tumbling up the ladders we found we
were stormed and about to be carried by assault by
a large fleet of rafts floating down the Elizabeth
River. Jumping gallantly and with 'characteristic
bravery to the point of attack, we drove away the
enemy by cutting their hawser, and allowing them

10 CRUISE OE THE
to drift apart, notwithstanding a terrific broadside
(of oaths) from the raftsman commanding. That
was our first engagement, and its success proved
the old naval principle ; preventing an enemy from
concentrating his forces weakens the power of the
attack. In the afternoon of the 28th we steamed
up the river to Norfolk, and from thence to the
Navy Yard, for the purpose of shipping stores and
coaling ship. After all departments had received
the requisite amount of stores, including that most
important of all, the paymaster's, we took our final
departure from the Navy Yard, and proceeded to
"Parewell Buov," where the ammunition was
taken on board. We were then armed, equipped,
provisioned, and ready at any moment to sail
wherever the powers that be should decree. The
period of uncertainty that followed is one of pecu
liar bliss for all old sailors. Dame Rumor perched
herself above the galley door, and whispered into
the ears of the salt water prophets so many answers
to the oft repeated question, "wliere are we going ?"
ihat, while it was impossible to doubt any, it was
equally impossible to believe all. One said we
were going to the land of the " Celestial pigtail;"
another said it was impossible not to go on the
Pacific ; while a third said the South Atlantic, and
drew terrible word-pictures of " Yellow Jack " at
the helm of some ill-fated vessel and steering her
into the fearful maelstrom of death. Indeed there
was enough spunyarn on that occasion to circle
round the world. All our doubts were put to the
sward by the welcome information that the Galena
was ordered to soil for ihe European Station, and
report to Rear Admiral J. C. Howell, who com
manded the naval forces on that station. The
European of tion is the favorite, par excellence, of
all sailors serving under the " Stars and Stripes,"
and the prophet who could say " I told you so,"

U.S.S. GALENA. 11
was the hero of the hour. At nine o'clock on the
morning of the 19th of December, 1880, " all
hands " were called to unmoor ship. In a few
minutes the Galena slowly and gracefully steamed
down the Elizabeth. After getting underway it
was found our Chief Surgeon was left behind. It
was a deplorable accident, and Visions of future
colds turning into wasting consumption, the chicken
pox, measles, and other horrible diseases which re
quire the steady hand of science to control, flashed
across the mirror of imagination. A tug was seen,
however, rapidly overtaking us, and, to our relief,
contained the absent doctor, and the "country was
saved." When we were passing Portress Monroe,
the squadron lying at anchor gave us farewell
greetings, and wished us a pleasant and prosperous
cruise, for which we returned thanks. After con
tinuing down the Chesapeake and passing the
capes, the broad Atlantic lay before us with its
long, sweeping, white-crested billows. Our pilot
then took leave, and the reality of leaving our na
tive land was brought forcibly to our minds. Old
" Pather Time" would thrice bathe in "El Do
rado," before we could again see its hospitable
shores ; for a long voyage had commenced to fo
reign lands and among strange people. On the
starboard tack, with all sail set before a faAror-
able wind, the good ship bounded gaily o'er the
dancing waves. The Galena seemed a thing of
life, and like a young maiden proud of her
grace and beauty. Rejoicing at once more hold
ing her head haughtily against the might of old
ocean, she dashed the spray from her bow in
saucy defiance. " Sorrow and joy," says the poet,
"go hand in hand," and true it is, for we did not see
the sunlight upon the waters, or the dancing waves ;
we saw, and our hearts were filled with sadness, the
shores of Columbia, the land of our nativity, grow

12 CRUISE OE THE
dimmer, and finally sink beneath the waves. A
man must be hardened indeed if, in after life, he can
forget the first time he leaves the land of his birth,
for the pleasant scenes of home are fresh in his me
mory and he " Longs for a touch of the vanished
hand," and the sight of dear and familiar faces.
After the land w*as lost to sight, fine weather and
the novelty of the life we were entering upon drove
away dull melancholy, and our feelings gradually
wore round and went on the other tack. Towards
evening, as we were entering the Gulf Stream, the
breeze began to stiffen, continuing strong all night
and increasing towards morning to a gale. In the
morning the eye looked out upon the raging waters.
The ship rose to the summit of high mountains, and
then sank down into the deep valleys between. One
moment she would pause, as if hesitating, upon the
crest of some huge giant wave, and then plunge
boldly into the watery chasm open for her reception;
to rise once more, to plunge again. The continual
change of atmosphere, no doubt, reminded the poor
unfortunate not used to "life on the ocean wave,"
of the days of childhood when, having surrepti
tiously taken too much green fruit, he would run to
his fond and sympathetic mother for an emetic.
His eyes in power were far ahead of the most ad
vanced stage of science, for he could distinctly see
the earth turn on its axis. His brain would get dizzy,
his head whirl, with a pale and sickly cast o' coun
tenance he would suddenly mount the top-gallant
forecastle and gaze long and earnestly into the un
fathomable deep, as if, Narcissus-like, he was in love
with his own image. Not so, poor fellow ! The word
love was for the time erased from his bright lexicon
of youth ; for he did not have the capacity either to
love or hate, all he had was chaos, all he desired
was oblivion. If the Archangel had sounded the
last trump and the dead were rising from the sea

U.S.S. GALENA. 13
he would have been no more surprised than if the
ship's bugler had called away a cutter or whaleboat;
even the fishes smiled at him — they had the right,
for they were well fed ! The berth-deck, especially
at meal hours, was a scene of the direst confusion.
It was impossible to set the tables, so our meals were
taken in the style of the "old navy," upon mess-
cloths spread on the deck. One moment, we would
be lulled into fancied security by the pauses the
ship would make upon some huge billow before
plunging down; the next, what a transformation ! A
lurch — a plunge, and the debris of twelve messes
would come rolling and tumbling down the deck,
like an avalanche down the side of some hoary old
Alp. Pieces of salt horse and hard tack floated
upon an ocean of bean soup. It was a very pande
monium, while
Tlie mess-cooks laughed to see such a sight,
And the dish ran away with the spoon.
A Grseco-Roman match was held, according to
the Marquis of Queensberry rules, between a well-
known musician and a can of soup and bouille.
The latter being of contract quality, and having
therefore the advantages of age and strength was
declared victor after reducing his opponent to the
condition of mince meat. During the night of the
20th the waves came on with such violence as to
carry away our starboard pivot port, and Moses was
again afloat, (not the Moses of bullrushes notoriety,
but Moses the chef.) In his own chaste and gra
phic language he thus describes it ; says he : "I had
" a dream I was at home once more, 'way down in
" old Virginny. The moon was shining clear and
" cold upon the Lake of the Dismal Swamp,
"Where all night long by a firefly lamp
"I paddled my white canoe."
"The wild whistling wind sighed through the dead
" forest, and the trees waved their ghastly arms as

11 CRUISE OE TIIE
" if in agony, Avhile upon the bank the glow-worm
" sat and meditated. Let him meditate, said I, until
" the rays of the morning sun drown his fancied
" fire. I did not care for wind or forest, live or
" dead, for by my side sat Diana, the star of my des-
" tiny, the sweet chocolate blonde of my admiration.
" Thinking only of each other we did not notice the
" wind increase to a tempest ; nor that the trees
" wilder and wilder waved their arms, as if cursing
" in impotent rage the man in the moon. The dark
" waters heaved and hissed, higher and higher rose
" the dreadful waves, and our little canoe was toss-
" ed like a white soul upon the wicked sea of life.
" Holv angels, we are lost ! cried Diana, and while
" the perspiration from every pore ran clown my
" spinal column, I cried out soothingly, ' my name
"is Dennis.' 'Way in the distance a giant wave
" was seen approaching, nearer and nearer it came,
" creeping on. Good bye, Diana, my love ; good bye,
" Moses my darling ; one last embrace, the canoe
" was struck and, — I woke up and found I was safe-
"ly floating down the port gangway on my mattrass
" and blanket." - The next morning the weather
moderated, but the waves still ran high. Captain
O'Kane met with a painful, but, we were pleased to
learn, not serious accident ; his foot slipped upon
the deck, and his collar bone was dislocated. Prompt
medical aid, however, soon remedied the injury.
The ice chest under the forecastle carried away and
slightly injured the carpenter's mate. A very
heavy sea struck the steam launch, nearly taking
her out of the cradle. The barometer began to rise
towards evening, and very glad we were, for our
experience had grown sufficiently ripe to enable
us to thoroughly enjoy a peep at a blue sky and
calm weather. We liad passed through a genuine
live gale, for old Boreas was seen straddling a high
wave and dashing himself violently against the solid

U.S.S. GALENA. 15
old ribs of oak. He found, to his great surprise, that
by some mistake, or special interposition of Provi
dence, the Galena was built of good, solid, and du
rable timber, and not of the kind generally used in
naval repairs. On the morning of the 23rd, the gale
had abated, and under topsails, foresail and reefed
mainsail we continued on, making good time, course
S.E. by E. The next day was Christmas Eve, clear
and bright, giving promise of a Christmas day under
the sunshine. About midnight the ship was hailed,
" ship ahoy ! " and Lieutenant Gill, being officer of
the deck, looking to windward saw a Portugee
man-of-war handsomely decorated with anemones,
entwined with garlands of sea serpents, and brilliant
with lanterns of will-o'-the-wisp. What ship is
that ? the U. S. S. Galena ; where bound ? for Gib
raltar. What ship is that ? Santa Glaus, back
your main yard and I will come on board. The
word was passed for the watch to lay aft to the
braces, and in a twinkling the great benevolent
Pather of good cheer came over the gangway, look
ing as rosy and happy as if he had not journeyed
from where the sun rises spreading happiness over
half a world. The courtesies of the ship were ex
tended to him, and after bestowing his gifts and
wishing all a " Merry Christmas," he was piped over
the side. We loaded him with kind greetings for
the loved ones at home, knowing that in a few more
hours, upon every house-top in the land, would be
heard the "pawing and prancing of each little hoof,"
and every one, great and. small, rich and poor, would
receive a token that, over eighteen hundred years
ago, a star arose above the little village of Bethlehem
whose bright rays would illumine the pathways of
centuries. Christmas morning was all that our
hearts could desire. The boys were piped up, and
the smoking lamp was lighted. Around the galley
a scene of pleasant confusion prevailed, and odors

16 CRUISE OE THE
were borne to our olfactory organs, far sweeter to us
than the perfumes of Arabia, or incense from the
vale of Cashmere. The tables were tastefully ar
ranged and draped with bunting. Captain O'Kane
visited and inspected them, and wished us a "Merry
Christmas" and "Happy New Year;" and _ we in
our hearts wished him the same, not the less sincere
ly for not being expressed. Our appetites having
been sharpened upon the whetstone of expectancy,
the substantial character of the lay. out soon bore
a resemblance to some western farm over whose
green fields the army of grasshoppers had camped
and foraged. Many an old " Cock of the walk,"
the sire of numerous generations of cocks and hens,
was served up to the devouring animal, man, and
another rooster crowed upon his dung-hill. Pies,
cakes, nuts, &c, followed the common road of all.
After dinner our pipes were lighted, and the re
mainder of the day was spent in recalling and re
lating bygone experiences, and caulking seams.
During the last week of the year the weather was
very unsettled, and the winds variable and shifting
round to every point of the compass. The days
were spent in trying to catch and utilize every co
quettish catspaw, that would for a moment fill the
sails, and then die away, leaving them, if possible,
limper than ever. An almost continual command
of "lay aft to the braces," or, " marines, man the
main brace," broke upon our tired ears. We al
most wished for a storm, rather one, by far, than
to have a calm which is not a calm. Every thing
in life has an ending. The new-born year was
ushered into life on the wings of a delightful and
favorable wind, and under full sail we sped swiftly
towards our destination. The old year, with its
alternate joys and sorrows, was left far astern in the
wake of our good ship, and the future promised us
a happy cruise. At noon we were in latitude 36°

U.S.S. GALENA. 17
16' North; longitude 40° 18' West. Por three days
the wind remained faithful to our course, and com
ing from the south west was delightfully warm, as
the colder atmosphere through wliich it had passed
robbed it of some of the heat gathered in the tropics.
On the 3rd of January it again became light and
variable, and all the studding sails were set. On
the 5th, however, the wind increased to a moderate
gale, and the topsails were reefed. The next morn
ing, there being no change for the better, we com
menced steaming under foie and aft sails. We
continued under steam for the remaining clays of
our passage across the Atlantic, with occasional head
winds and squally weather to occupy our time, and
increase our experience in seamanship.
At 2.30 a.m., on the morning of the 12th of
January, a light was reported which proved to be
on Cape Trafalgar, the southern point of Spain, and,
soon after, the light at Cape Spartel on the coast of
Morocco shone off our starboard bow. We then
hove to, took bearings and entered the Straits of
Gibraltar. The scene on either side in the fresh
ness of morning was very beautiful. Bright Au
rora, who was rising in the east, before she fell
fainting into the arms of clay, tinged the night
clouds with brown and gold, and lighted the tops
of the lofty hills which had caught and held them.
Blue curling smoke floated heavenward from Span
ish cottage or Moorish hamlet nestling at their base.
We were aided by the strong current which flows
continually into the Mediterranean. It is suppos
ed that an undercurrent flows out at a great depth,
but science has not fully proved this supposition.
At 6.15 a.m. we were in sight of the famous Rock
of Gibraltar, whicli has been for so many years the
" Bone of Contention " between England and
Spain. The Rock, on approaching it, is said to re
semble a crouching lion. Every one pretended to

18 CRUISE OF THE
see it, but, in truth, it would require the imagina
tion of a poet or the blind patriotism of a Cockney.
To the latter, it is the fac-simile of the majestic
British Lion, ready at any moment to spring upon
an enemy, take a flying leap into Africa, or irritate
the little "Dons," who, if they da-red, would tickle
his tail with a straw. Pifteen minutes before eight
bellswe steamed into the harbor, and dropped an
chor off the Ragged Staff Batteiy. Thus, twenty
four days after leaving the shores of America, we
were snugly anchored in foreign waters, having
sailed three thousand four hundred and seventy
miles. A great rush was made for the bumboat,
which had come alongside ; for salt horse, bean
soup, and hard tack are very well for a time, but
the rarest and most delicious of dishes would pall
upon the taste if used too often. The ripe fruit
soon disappeared, and such a mania was created for
jam as to form a characteristic desire which has
never ended. The usual courtesies were then ex
changed between our officers and the English of
ficers stationed at the Rock.

U.S.S. GALENA. 19

CHAPTER II.
Gibraltar, the strongest fortress in the world, pre
sents little that is formidable to the eye. A plain,
grey, solitary looking rock, with notliing calculated
to strike terror to the heart or transfix with awe.
Without seeing the wonderful tunnels and the
hidden might of its gigantic strength, it would be
impossible to conceive that, beneath the cold grey
stone, a power lies dormant, which, if awakened,
the combined fleets of all nations could neither
withstand nor silence. There is a gun for every
year in the Christian Era, and the ports through
which they are fired are painted the same color as
the rock, except those on the south side. The tun
nels were bored by the Moors prior to their being
driven out of Spain in the time of Perdinand and
Isabella, and it was the last great stronghold held
by them in Europe. The Spaniards then occupied
it, until England, recognizing the prestige and
power such a fortress would bestow upon her, by
strategy succeeded in wresting it from them in
1704. She has kept it ever since, notwithstanding
the numerous attempts to retake it and a siege
which lasted four years with over one thousand
guns brought to bear upon it. In ancient times it
was called one of the Pillars of Hercules, and marked
the western boundary of the known world. The
town resting at its base contains about twenty
thousand inhabitants. A great military barrack
with nothing time-honored about it. Upon its
principal promenade, however, the cosmopolitan
character of the promenaders lends interest to the
scene. Moors, Spaniards, English, Prench and
numerous other nationalities are dressed in the

20 CRUISE OF THE
characteristic costumes of their respective coun
tries. English soldiers, many of them wearing the
little round cap, chin-strap down, which gives them
somewhat a resemblance to the little missing links
that frisk and frolic upon the side of the rock,
could be seen without number. Gibraltar is con
nected with the mainland by a narrow neck called
the "Neutral Ground," where English and Span
ish sentries walk side by side. No liberty was
given to the ship's company, as they were busy get
ting the ship in order, and erasing the marks left
by the caressing waves upon her weather beaten
sides. After coaling ship and taking in stores we
were ready to continue on to Villefranche. On the
14th of January the weather became threatening,
and the strong wind and heavy sea caused us to
shift our moo ings. The next day was the time
appointed to leave, but, as several of our officers
were wind bound, we were delayed twenty four
hours. On the afternoon of the 16th, the wind hav
ing spent its fury and died away, and all absentees
reported, we weighed anchor and got underway for
our final destination, Villefranche-sur-Mer, the
headquarters of the U. S. Naval Porces on the
European Station. Rounding Europa Point we
were fairly afloat upon the most interesting of all
waters, the blue Mediterranean. Prom time im
memorial its praises have been written and sung in
every language and every clime. Poets of all
ages have looked upon and gathered inspiration from
its silver-tipped sapphire waves. A theme for
Homer, a love-song to Sappho, a poem to Byron,
it is well worthy to have been the cradle of the
Goddess of Love and Beauty. The excmisite
"ultra-marine" blue for which it is noted, has
lately been discovered by a Prench chemist to be
a chemical composition. This beautiful blue ex
tends from the Orient, along the sun-kissed shores of

U.S.S. GALENA. 21
classic lands, out of the Mediterranean, and along
Western Europe in a lesser tint, to be finally lost
upon the wild ice-bound romantic coast of Northern
Europe. Having a head wind with overcast sky,
we continued under steam until the morning of
the 18th, when the wind hauling around blew
away the cloud curtains and let down the sunlight
upon us. The fires Avere banked, and sail made to
a royal. We Avere then sailing along the coast of
Spain, and a beautiful panorama of nature was con
tinually in sight, one of those to Avhich " distance
lends enchantment "—green-clad hills, castle-
crowned, with white cities and towns upon the
water's edge in the valleys beyond, or more ambi
tiously climbing the mountain side. Looking upon
the delicate mist-covered scene, one could well ima
gine himself wandering like some Gil Bias among
the vineyards and orange groves ; or dancing Avith
brightly arrayed, dark-eyed "Aldeanas" to the
click of castanets. January 19th we began to
make preparations for going into port ; furled all
.sail and unbent the main topmast staysail. In
the evening a severe hailstorm burst upon us, last
ing a few minutes, and it was as clear as ever.
About 4 o'clock on the morning of the 20th, we
entered the Bay of Villefranche and moored ship.
The Bay of Villefranche is a lovely land-locked lit
tle piece of water, sheltered, as it is, by the Mari
time Alps from the cold mistral winds which blow
off the snow-covered mountains that lie beyond.
Just such a snug, cosy little anchorage as com
pels sailors to blot out from the pages of memory
the dark stormy nights upon an angry ocean they
have experienced in the past. We found the U.S.
P. S. Trenton, and the U. S. S. Nipsic in the har
bor. We had been very eager to see our Plagship
Trenton, for her speed and general good qualities
lent a kind of lustre to the other ships composing

22 CRUISE OE THE
our navy. We were pleased to acknowledge her
superiority, to rest under the shadow of her reputa
tion, to compare her to the fleet- winged swallow,
skimming the water, and laughing at the webfoot-
ed ducks awkwardly paddling behind — a swiftly
darting pike among a fleet of driftwood. By the
prophetic soul of "Uncle Sam " we looked into the
future, behold a vision : — The driftwood had been
collected. In one huge, incongruous sacrificial pile
it towered heavenward. A vast concourse of peo
ple had assembled — the representative citizens of a
great Republic — to witness the glowing sacrifice up
on the altar of a nation's honor. Not a sound
broke the stillness of night. The vast multitude
were as silent as a spirit of solitude, for the great
High Priest, Democracy, slowly approached holding
high in air the flaming torch of indignation. He
touched the pile, the rotten wood hissed and
crackled, and a flame arose that extinguished the
stars and lighted the night as does the noonday sun
the day. A shout that shook the solar system burst
from the lungs of fifty millions, and the grand
chorus "Te Deum Laudamus " was heard by the
heroes in the regions of Valhalla, " A change came
o'er the spirit of my (our) dream." We saw a
Phoenix rise from the ashes with ribs of steel, and
lightning, flashing from a thousand eyes, smote to
death the enemies of liberty and progress. May we
all live to see it realized ! Methuselah, you know,
lived over nine hundred years.
As soon as the decks were washed and the yards
squared, Ave were piped to breakfast, and, simultane
ously, over the gangway poured a crowd of wash-
Avomen and bumboat girls, who, for the sake of the
"almighty dollar" which might perhaps lurk in
the pockets of Jack's trousers, or in the monk-ba°-
around his throat, smiled sweetly upon the stran^
gers. About 2 o'clock onthe morning of the 21st

U.S.S. GALENA. 23
" all hands " Avere called to clear a beautiful Eng
lish yacht, Avhich had parted her moorings and Avas
drifting down upon us. It took one hour and a half
to get her clear, but not before she was considerably
damaged. Her fore and mizzentopmasts were car
ried aAvay and the bulwarks on the starboard side
forward, also smashing one of her boats hanging on
the davits. With the exception of a slight injury
to the captain of the forecastle, our damage was
insignificant ; the whisker boom, portions of the
head gear, and the end of the f oretopsail-yard-arm,
wrere the injuries' sum total. In the afternoon we
received a large mail from home over which there
was great rejoicing. A mail day on a man-of-Avar is
one of great interest : after it is delivered by the
Master-at-Arms the spardeck presents a sight to a
close observer of many of the traits of human na
ture. Upon the faces of the eager perusers can be
traced the dark shadoAV of woe and disappointment
or the flush of joy. It may be a tale of trouble,
some bright, loved, being may have taken the croAvn
of immortality and left this vale of sorrow for a
better world beyond the stars ; or, perhaps, the "girl
Ave left behind us," so full of gushing words of eter
nal constancy, now gushes upon some other fellow.
Never mind, boys, let them gush, for we have had
our revenge, and Avell haA-e we remembered that,
" When far from the lips we love
We have but to make love to the lips we are near."
The ship was then prepared and reported ready for
inspection, whereupon Rear Admiral Howell paid
the usual official visit. After inspection, liberty
was given, and many of us for the first time set our
feet upon foreign soil. Villefranche, our adopted
home, is a quaint little mediceval village, Avith
about four thousand inhabitants. It was built by
Charles II. of Anjou, King of Naples, in the 13th
century. The houses are erected pell-mell upon

24 CRUISE OE THE
each other, on the side of Mont Boron, and looks as
if some Titan of old had from the mountain top
cast them down, and Avhere they fell there they re
mained. The first visit we made was one of homage
to the old Queen of Conviviality, Madame Dewdrop.
That ancient dame is said to have been the mother
of Bacchus. Upon her shelves, in military array,
stood the well-known brands of her jovial son, com
monly known as, " Kill me quick," " Song and
dance liquor," "Pive-second rum," and "Old
Hilarity." After worshipping at the shrine, moder
ately, of course, some of us Avandered through the
Chinese-puzzle-like labyrinths of narrow streets ;
others among the diminutive forests of orange and
olive. Wishing to see Nice, the famous winter resort,
the majority took carriages, and drove along one of
the most charming drives in the world. On our
righttowerled above us the vine-covered Alps, on our
left, severa hundred feet below, the Mediterranean
mur mured the same old story. Passing " Smith's
Polly" and several'other handsome villas, we enter
ed the city of Nice and landed in the Place Mas
sena. Many took the winding path over the moun
tain, visiting on the Avay the old fort of Mont
Alban, where Napoleon III. signed the Treaty of
Villefranche between Prance and Austria. Prom
the mountain top, a grand, picturesque view of sur
passing loveliness amply repaid the tourists for the
climb. To the westward in the valley, lay the city
of Nice, with the Paglione like a thread of silver
winding through it, while, beyond, innumerable
villas dotted the landscape, even to the base of the
hills, that looked blue in the distance. About face,
and, " over the hills and far away," Monaco, the
earthly Paradise of the gambler, the roue\ and all
others who, lost to sense and shame, " do waste
their substance," shone white in the sunlight ; a
" whited sepulchre," wherein are buried the hopes

U.S.S. GALENA. 25
of hundreds, where men and women lose strength,
manhood, womanhood, modesty, virtue and honor
in pursuing an ignis fat-uus. Left face, and the
everlasting hills stretch out, range after range, be
yond the power of vision ; yea, even beyond con
ception. Another Avinding path carried us down
into the city. The city of Nice, the most popular
winter resort in Europe, was built in the middle
ages, although little remains to tell the story, as,
fashion and folly, those time-destroyers of antiquity,
shook up the dust of centuries, and the wind car
ried it away. It is now preeminently a city of
hotels, and very handsome they are, profusely deco
rated with the gingerbread ornaments of modern
architecture. Many fine streets and handsome
promenades run through the city, and on mild,
genial, winter afternoons they are thronged wTith the
" Comme il faut" of all Nations. Standing upon
the " Promenade des Anglais" one can see the
aristocracy of Europe pass in review. Stately equi
pages, drawrn by stately bays, driven by stately
coachmen, in which are stately ladies with stately
poodles. There is an inexpressible exclusive air
about the whole turn-out, and you wonder why. You
look, observe, compare, and the enigma is solved.
It is not the stateliness of carriage, horses, coach
man, nor of "my lady," although "daughter of a
hundred Earls ; " but it is the exquisite dignity of
the little poodle, wliich, seated upon the morocco
cushion, looked conscious of having descended
through an rinbroken line of lofty sires since the
time of Charles II. ; remove him, and you see the
parvenu; reinstate him and, in the harmonious whole,
behold the Duchess. While we were slowly walking
along, one of our fellows in a startling voice sud
denly exclaimed, " look there, boys, for Heaven's
sake, AA'hat is it ?" What is what ? we cry; "There,"
said he, as he pointed with his index to a queer-

26 CRUISE OE THE
looking specimen of the " genus homo." Before
we could reply a dark, mysterious-looking stranger
answered, " wrhy, my boy, that is Pitznoodle."
Pitznooclle, Sir, is he an American ? A look of di
vine pity illuminated the face of the sage, as he re
plied : — " My poor innocent, the one you know may
" possibly be in America, but tlieir name is legion.
" Travel the Avide world over, and, wherever fashion
" and folly have taken booths in 'Vanity Pair,' there
" you will find them with closely-encased 'pipestems'
" and eyeglasses, living effigies of good breeding
" and gentlemanly decorum." Who is that con
ceited-looking felloAV hanging on his arm ? The
sage looked embarrassed, but soon recovered, an
swering : — " That is a countryman of yours — don't
" blush, my boys, he is not worth it. Left by a hard-
" working father Avith more money than brains, he
" came to Europe to seethe 'Elephant.' Pitznooclle
'* met him, and, having a peculiar fondness for na-
" tural simplicity, loved him on sight. Despising
" American Institutions,he adores anything English,
" and, arm-in-arm with Pitznoodle, he haunts the so-
" ciety of the elect until experience changes the
" 'Cawnt-dawnce-the-Lawncers' air which he affects
" into the olive-green of disappointment, and sends
" him, metaphorically-speaking, with his tail be-
" tween his legs, back to the land wdiicb. gave him
" birth." Taking out his watch, the sage noted the
time, and, enveloped in a blue smoke, vanished from
our sight. After seeing Nice by gaslight, we re
tired to a hotel, and in the morning returned on
board ship.
About two bells in the afternoon of the 8th of
Pebruary we steamed out of the harbor, bound for
Naples. A fair wind aAvaited us outside, and, catch
ing and filling the sails, bore us along at the rate of
ten knots. The next clay we passed in sight of the
Island of Corsica, the birthplace of Napoleon. The

U.S.S. GALENA. 27
weather continued to be delightful, and at 10 o'clock
on the morning of the 10th we entered the Bay of
Naples. We can imagine the disappointment you
feel when we positively refuse to describe the al
most divine loveliness of the famous bay. We can
didly confess that we have not swallowed a suffi
cient quantity of "Webster's Unabridged" to
enable us to do justice to the subject. Again, one
of those curious statisticians, who occupy the days of
their earthly existence in collecting a few extraor
dinary facts which are soon forgotten, says : " The
description of the Bay of Naples has been written
over ten thousand times." So we refuse to be only
one in ten thousand. Satisfied that those who have
had the blessed privilege of seeing it in person can
never forget its beauty, we sail on and come to an
chor with the Galena inside the breakwater moored
head and stern. A number of flagships greeted us
on entering with our national air. General liberty
was given to the ship's company. We Avere received
upon reaching the landing by a reception commit
tee of the noble profession of beggars, who exposed
to our admiring eyes the artistic shapes into which
by years of apprenticeship they had succeeded in
bringing their stock in trade. We had been fore
warned, however, and passed through without the
loss of a single tear. After reaching the " Strada
Toledo," we were besieged by a still more subtle
enemy. Jack could withstand the importunities of
self-imposed torture, but you could floor him with
a smile. Walking slowly along the great street,
looking at the sights on either side, suddenly
a Madonna, who a few minutes before had stepped
down from some picture by an " old master," would
look up into his face, and with a smile divinely
angelic and a voice like the faint sweet music of a
dream, murmur, " will you buy my posies ? " One
look downward into eyes where the sunset seemed

28 CRUISE OF THE
to have lingered was enough. Yes, my angel, a
whole conservatory if you have one convenient.
We visited the King's Palace, a large building of
marble. It was, of course, magnificently furnished
Avith paintings, statuary, tapestries, frescoes, mir
rors, and all the other objects necessary for the
comfort of Kings. When in the Royal Chamber,
one of the boys having a desire or curiosity to know
if it was soft, seated himself upon the throne, his
reign was short, and he was compelled to abdicate
so quickly, hoAvever, he could not tell if his curio
sity Avas satisfied. We next visited the Museum
and many handsome churches, rich with frescoes
and ornamented with marble, lapis-lazuli and ex
quisite mosaics. Mounted the amphitheatre of
hills, and rested under the solemn old date palms
which, for century after century, have stood their
silent watch over the city, their roots dyed
with the blood of revolution after revolution
until they saw Italy regenerated and united.
The castle of St. Elmo, which stands upon the
hills, is of great age. Peter the Hermit marched
from its portals to the Pirst Crusade. Again
taking in the fine promenade, Villa Reale and
the Public Gardens, we left Naples to visit the re
surrected cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum, and
to clime burning Vesuvius. About one hour's ride
brought us to Pompeii, where we procured a guide,
paid the entrance fee, and entered the wonderful
city, which for nearly eighteen hundred years lay
silent and forgotten. The terrible eruption which
destroyed the two cities occurred on the 24th of
August, A. D. 79. The burning river of lava over
flowing Herculaneum, while Pompeii was buried
beneath the ashes. They were discovered by ac
cident about the middle of the 18th century. We
saw the house of Sallust, Avalked with aAve in the
Temples of Gods, and along the streets where a°-es

U.S.S. GALENA. 29
ago poor lone sold her roses to the gay gallants pass
ing by to the voluptuous pleasures of the bath. If it
be true, as the old chroniclers state, that the noble
men of the Roman Empire spent the morning, after
noon and evening of their existence in the enjoy
ments of the bath, then it puzzles us to imagine
how they found time to accomplish the grand deeds
of heroism and god-like valor which history perpe
tuates. A fearful doubt assails the mind and tum
bles over cherished ideas, like a well-aimed ball at
nine pins, (Ye Gods, forgive us if we err ! ) that the
grand achievements which made Rome the mistress
of the world, must have been done by the unwashed
plebeians of the Empire. We saw the spot Avhere
the brave old soldier so gallantly stood at his post
until death, assuming the functions of the corporal
of the guard, relieved him from duty. What an
execrable coward that Non-Com. must have been,
or what a consummate fool was the old soldier !
Perhaps he could look down the coming ages, and
see himself held up as an heroic example for all
good soldiers and sailors to emulate, and to inspire
them to "hold the f ort " in the hour of danger;
if so, then, he smiled, folded his arms, and died
that he might live. After leaving Pompeii we
visited Herculaneum, and found it not as interest
ing as the former. The excavations are compara
tively insignificant, owing, no doubt, to the stupen
dous difficulty of cutting out the solid lava. Ve
suvius followed, and after reaching the station Ave
entered the car which was to carry us to the top.
As the car ascends another counterbalancing it de
scends. What a delightful chance to cut a friend,
especially if he carried in his pocket a reward of
fifty francs, for as he gently ascended you Avould
gently descend, you would wish him a pleasant jour-
nev, kiss your hand and vanish. After reaching the
top wre cautiously approached the Crater and looked

30 CRUISE OF THE
down into the hissing cauldron. It was a grand,
awe-inspiring sight, but just a little too suggestive,
and one would remember numerous little sins he
thought he had forgotten, and it was a relief to
turn and admire the superb landscape, the populous
city lying below, the beautiful bay with numerous
little villages lining the shores and looking in the
distance like cities of the Lilliputians. We then
descended the mountain, returned to Naples, at
tended a Ballet at San Carlo, one of the largest
theatres in the world, and the next morning re
turned on board ship.

U.S.S. GALENA. 31

CHAPTER III.

On the morning of the 17th of February, we left
Naples for Smyrna, in Asia Minor. Steaming down
the Bay we entered the Mediterranean and con
tinued on, running parallel to the coast of Italy, in
sight of land. A strong head wind greatly retarded
us, and under steam alone our speed Avas slow. The
second clay out we passed the volcano of Stromboli
on one of the Lipari islands. It is a bleak, deso
late-looking cone, with thin blue smoke lingering
around its summit, aud the lava marks left upon
its rugged sides in the more ambitious days before
Vesuvius, Prometheus-like, stole away its fire. We
entered the Straits of Messina in the forenoon of
the 18th, passing the city of Messina in Sicily
on our starboard beam, with snow-covered Etna
looming up faintly in the distance beyond. On
our port the plains of Calabria stretched out
to the base of the Calabrian mountains, Avhere
the still fierce Italian brigands have their moun
tain strongholds. After passing between Scyllaand
Charybdis we again entered the Mediterranean,
working around the toe of the "boot " and pass
ing Cape Spartivento with the wind dead ahead,
and blowing so strong it became necessary to
send clown top-gallant yards and masts. The
wind and weather for two clays were very fickle,
veering from moderate breezes and partially over
cast sky, to dark, threatening, stormy clouds and
Avhistling gales. The propeller still made its revo
lutions, and the Galena slowly but surely fought
her way against wind and waves past Cape Matapan
and along the southern shores of Greece. Before
entering the passage through the Grecian Archi-

32 CRUISE OF THE
pelago, the gale showing no signs of abating, the
Captain thought it advisable to seek shelter under
the cliffs on the island of Milo ; and in the after
noon of the 21st Ave were riding snugly at anchor
under their protecting shadow. While at Milo, the
whaleboat was sent ashore with several officers on a
visit of exploration. Among the party were a bo
tanist and a mineralogist. Upon landing they
Avandered over the hills and valleys, the botanist
peering Avherever a modest flower or fern could hide
its lowly but lovely little head ; Avhile the mine
ralogist, upon sterner research bent, with his little
hammer examined and appropriated quaint and
ctirious specimens of stone, the very same, perhaps,
which, in the classic age, the young heroes chunked
at sparrows. Forgetting the eternal fitness of things,
the flowers were put first into the only bag they had
and the stones placed on top. It did not hurt the
stones, but the little forget-me-nots and daisies,
bruised and bleeding, hung their heads and died.
Two other gentlemen, possessing no special scientific
attainments, but having a fondness for the " animal
kingdom," spied, lonely and lost upon the hillside, a
small lamb which had strayed from the fold. They
succeeded in capturing it, and with the determina
tion of making a pet of it brought it on board.
Poor little lamb ! his experience in life on board
ship was short and sweet, for the poAver Avhich is
born of Republics is not that Avhich " Tempered the
wind to the shorn lamb ; " ergo, the little lamb was
sacrificed upon the Altar of Gastronomy, and served
up in the Ward- Room in numerous and artistic
shapes. We made an attempt to leave Milo on the
22nd of February, but the wind continuing to bloAv
in our teeth the ship was hove-to, and "the next
morning dropped anchor nearer in shore. IWards
evening, old Neptune having somewhat relented,
we were exercised at General Quarters and target

TT.S.S. GAELNA. 33
practice. The target was set high upon the cliffs
for great guns, and a smaller one astern for small
arms. Constant steaming against head winds had a
demoralizing effect on our coal bunkers, and it be
coming necessary to replenish our supply, we
steamed from under the friendly cliffs on the 23rcl
for the city of Syra, and in the evening dropped
anchor in the Bay. Syra is a pretty little place,
with clean looking houses painted a pure white, and
built upon the side of a hill. The ship was coaled.
and by the 26th we were again under way for Smyr
na. On our passage through the Islands we were
exceedingly disappointed, having pictured them in
our minds as covered with beautiful groves of
oranges, olive and myrtle — perfect illustrations of
the lovely " Isles of Greece," as commemorated in
poetry and song — whereas, they were bleak, barren,
volcanic-looking hills, except an occasional oasis in
the desert of sterility, where man had erected a ha
bitation and made the desert blossom like a rose.
Winding in and out among the many islands, and
crossing the transparent blue waters of the iEgean
Sea and Gulf of Smyrna, Ave entered the placid Bay
of Smyrna on the morning of the 27th and anchor
ed off the city. It was a clear, bright, beautiful
morn, and about vine- covered mountains, city and
peaceful waters, hung the indescribably delightful
air of perfect repose and peaceful calm in nature,
that marks the entrance to the Orient. Such a day
as one could enjoy the mere fact of existence with
out even the aid of the senses. The city of Smyr
na, the largest and most thriving city in Asiatic
Turkey, contains about one hundred and eighty
thousand inhabitants of clivers nations,. Its age is
prehistoric, and, after having been destroyed and re
built, deA'astated by armies and scourged bv plagues,
it still continues to prosper. It is the home of many
people of Christian belief, and is called by the Turks

34 CRUISE OF THE
" Giaour Ismer," or Infidel Smyrna. Three miles
from the city lie the ruins of the ancient church of
Elijah, one of the seven churches mentioned in Holy
writ, where St. Paul preached the then new^ Chris
tian religion. Liberty was given to the ship's com
pany. Upon landing we found the streets crowded
with people in fantastic array as it was the time of
Carnival. In the cafes and casinos many to the
strains of sweet music danced the dreamy waltz ; or
some Greek or Albanian, fired by the wine that like
a river flowed, tripped the " light fantastic," not un
like an Irish jig drunk on St. Patrick's Day. We
strolled along the streets looking at the picturesque
groups, and visited the Turkish quarters, wliere, as
we expected, the "Bearded Turk" sat in silent
dignity and smoked away the happy hours. The
" Dancing Dervishes " Avere the greatest curiosity iu
the quarters. They are human beings, we believe,
who, like Cassio, (not the ward-room Cassio) have
a "lean and hungry look," and set upon springs
warranted to dance them through the pearly gates
of Paradise, they jump and howl like frolicsome
maniacs at the festival of full moon. In the Greek
Quarters, beautiful women, with voluptuous forms
and classic features, stood in the doorways, or from
the lattice peeped, dressed in bright colored cos
tumes and ornamented (?) with a profusion of gold
jewelry. Their "love-lighted" eyes flashed merrily at
. the passing masks ; while, ever and anon, clinched
between the rows of pearls behind the coral they
would air their chewing gum. After going through
the Jewish Quarters with its nut-brown Oriental-
eyed maidens of Israel, we visited the camp of the
fortune-telling Bohemians, who for a small com
pensation draw our horoscopes in Arabic and,
although we did not exactly comprehend, by the
rapturous rolling of their eyes we were to be, no
doubt, future regenerators of the Avorld, or dispen-

U.S.S. GALENA. 35
sers of untold wealth. Along the Caravan Bridge
Road we saw caravans of camels heavily laden with
the treasures of the East, and as they passed slowly
by the air was redolent with the odors of camel and
of roses. Many of our fellows, taking for their
motto ; "when in Smyrna do as the Smyrniotes do,"
sat astride donkeys and galloped through the
streets. We know there are people who will be
surprised at the above assertion, no more surprised,
however, than were the other donkeys, and it serves
to prove the force of American energy. We had
altogether an enjoyable visit, and returned on board
(C. andS.) ready for duty. On the 1st of March
wre witnessed an Austrian man-of-war go through
the yearly custom of hanging an effigy of Judas
Iscariot. Many of our officers visited the celebrated
ruins of Ephesus. A mail was received from home
containing valentines both sentimental and comic,
and freighted Avith sugar-coated messages of love,
or grotesque caricatures of the little god. We took
our departure from." Smyrna, in the afternoon of the
12th of March, for Const mtinople. We steamed
through the Grecian Archipelago and along the
Turkish main, and the old Galena before a fair
wind spread her white wings and fleAV, making an
average of twelve knots. Crossing the iEgean Sea
we entered the Dardanelles about 3 o'clock on the
morning of the 13th, and hove to off the town of
Chanak. Permission Avas then obtained for us to
proceed to Constantinople. Steaming up the Dar
danelles with its beautiful river-like scenery, Ave
passed the toAvn of Gallipoli and the Island of
Marmora, and entered the sea of Marmora. A
heavy fog, looking out of place in that Oriental
clime, enfolded us in its embrace and compelled us
to drop anchor off the town of San Stephano. The
next afternoon Ave got underway, steamed up to
Constantinople and dropped anchor opposite the

36 CRUISE OF THE
Palace of the Sultan of Turkey. We found all the
shipping in the harbor with their colors at half-mast
on account of the death of Alexander, Czar of Rus
sia, who had been assassinated by the Nihilists, and
as a mark of respect we did likewise. The harbor
of Constantinople is the finest and most beautiful
in Europe, and the view of the city from it on a
bright morning is perfectly superb. The pure lilac
of the sky, the rising sun shining upon hundreds
of cupalos, gilded domes and minarets, the Golden
Horn alive with slender graceful kaiks rowed by
turbaned Turks; and above all the dreamy haze
that like a mystic veil hangs o'er the grand old city
of the Sultans, all together formed a scene of subli
mity, a city of enchantment, a poem in stone, a
peri's dream of heaven. Liberty was given until
sundown, and we left the ship eager to see the
curious sights and novelties for which it is renown
ed. Our first visit was to the Palace of the Sultan,
a magnificent pile, with massive richly-carved gates
that no magical " sesame " would cause to swing
open. Notwithstanding our desire to catch a peep
at the unknown land, if they had suddenly swung
open and a gigantic eunuch had invited us to enter,
we would have remembered " Fresh, the American"
and would have said "not this evening," some other
evening would do as wrell. We found the streets
narrow and dirty, and paved with yellow dogs
alive with millions of little animals of the kanga
roo species. We forgot, however, all such little
inconveniences, for the novelty of manners, customs
and dress of the people kept our perceptive powers
in a state of intense interest. In Pera every na
tion and national costume under the sun seemed
to have been represented, and to stand for a few
moments watching the crowd was similar to tra
velling " Around the world in eighty days. "
After walking through Pera, and climbing the

U.S.S. GALENA. 37
Tower of Constantine, wre crossed the bridge over
the Golden Horn into Stamboul. Wandered through
the Grand Bazaar, and admired the carpets, the
handsome Oriental rugs, and a fascinating array of
other articles of luxury. In front of every door,
in every conceivable spot, the dignified Turk sat,
morning, noon and night, and smoked his ''Hubble-
bubble." The simple word "smoke" tells the whole
life-history of a Turk ; he smokes and goes to bed,
gets up, smokes, and goes to bed. Let his trouble
be what it will, his favorite dog may have the
mange, or perhaps some fellow has run away Avith
the "Pride of the Harem," no matter, he, like
the stoic that he is, mixes it up with the fragrant
weed, stuffs it into his consoler, puff-whiff, and
Mahomet is • himself again. Upon reaching the
great Mosque of Santa Sophia Ave were ordered to
pull off our shoes before entering. Those of us avIio
had on socks resembling a maiden's blush, ashes of
wild roses, or any of those delicious bits of color so
often seen above a government shoe, consented with
alacrity; the others, however, said they did not
care to go inside, but would rather view the exte
rior, and wonder why the domes were so fat and
hearty and the minarets have such a lean and hun
gry look. The Mosque was full of worshippers
singing Ioav chants and clapping their own encores.
After admiring sufficiently the old time-worn mo
saics and dim frescoes, we retraced our steps to
wards Pera, stood upon the bridge and Avatched the
veiled women passing over. We noticed the dif
ference in thickness of the veils ; some of them
resembled crinoline in coarseness, others, of a bi
zarre-like dreamy fabric, would leave something to
the imagination without hiding the perfect oval,
just thick enough to calm religious scruples, but
noi. to disfigure natural beauty. The most beauti
ful features of a Turkish woman are her eyes,

38 CRUISE OF THE
which always keep their youthful fire and brilliancy,
and it is impossible to make a correct guess at age,
for art could soon turn the sere and yellow of the
two inches of visible complexion into the blush of
sweet sixteen. What an advantage they have over
our American ladies, for a box of pearl powder, or
a bottle of " Bloom of South " would last a life
time. When returning to the ship we saAV the top
gallant forecastle crowded Avith men intently gazing
at something, and upon approaching nearer, we
found they had opera-glasses in hand, trying to
catch a glimpse of the beauties in the Sultan's
Harem. They were disappointed, for the young
" Nourmahals " had never been taught the Chris
tian accomplishment of facing, without a conscious
blush, a battery of impertinent lorgnettes. On.
the 16th of March Ave received a visit from the
American Minister, General James Longstreet, who
served as a Lieutenant General under General Lee
during the late war. As he came over the gangway
the drum rolled, the marines, paraded in full dress,
presented arms, and the American flag was hoisted
at the fore. The next clay was St. Patrick's Day,
and the wonderful feats of the good old snake-
eradicator were fully discussed ; and the sons
of the "Emerald Isle" dwelt together in har
mony, but the orange and green looked rather
blue from the cold weather, and a lack of "potheen."
March 22nd we dressed ship in honor of the anni
versary of the birthday of the Emperor of Germany.
We received a visit from Hobart Pasha, Comman
der-in-Chief of the Turkish Navy. He was for
merly an officer in the English Navy, but being
discharged his services were accepted by the "Grand
Turk." While at Constantinople we shifted moor
ings twice ; first, on account of anchoring too close
to a Turkish brig, and the swiftly-flowing current
threatening to carry us down upon her ; second a

U.S.S. GALENA. 39
Turkish transport anchored too close to us and had
her gig mashed by our stern swinging round. On
the 5th of April the news of the terrible earth
quake on the island of Chio reached Constanti
nople, and the American Minister requested us to
proceed immediately to that island. Leaving Con
stantinople about six bells in the afternoon, we
steamed clown the Dardanelles. The night was
dark and windy, and it was impossible to see the
shore on either side. About 1 o'clock we suddenly
ran aground on the European coast of Turkey, and
" all hands " were called to get the ship off. After
trying, in vain, to kedge her off, with the loss of a
keclge, the battery Avas run aft and all hands made
a rush aft ; the impetus given with the aid of the
propeller was successful, and the Galena slipped, —
slided, and Avas once more afloat. The passage
taken by us is seldom attempted at night, and only
the extreme emergency of the occasion, the errand
of mercy on which we were bent, caused us to make
the attempt. A Board of Inquiry aftenvards de
clared our officers free from blame or neglect. The
H.B.M.S. Bittern passed us while aground, but by
5 p.m. we had overtaken and left her far astern.
On the morning of the 7 th of April, Ave steamed
in and dropped anchor off the town of Kastro. The
destructive earthquake on the Island of Chio
occurred on the 3rd of April, 1881. The day was
Sunday, fine and clear, and the people having finish
ing their six days of toil, had gathered around the
family table to partake of that most social of all
meals, the Sunday dinner, never dreaming that one
moment more of time would change the pleasant
melodrama of life into the last scene of a dark
tragedy. Laughter-loving, light-hearted people of
a sunny clime ; soft-eyed-gentle women, celebrated
for their grace and beauty, and contented, indus
trious men passed the light jest, or shot the silver-

40 CRUISE OF THE
barbed arrows of wit. Suddenly, without a sign of
warning, the earth trembled and shook ; two ter
rible shocks, the walls tottered and fell, and five
thousand dead fand dying human beings lay bu
ried beneath the ruins. Captain O'Kane waited
upon the Governor and tendered all the assistance
it was in his power to render. Systematic parties
were organized under the charge of officers, to car
ry the wounded, dig out the dead and to pull down
the walls and buildings standing, but unsafe.
Upon reaching the shore Ave found the scene heart
rending in the extreme ; men, women and child
ren Avere lying around or under the mass of ruins.
The streets were blocked with the debris of fallen
buildings, some of the walls supporting each the
other formed an arch across the narroAv streets.
Hospital tents were erected in the suburbs of the
town, and our men cheerfully and tenderly carried
the poor mangled sufferers there to receive medical
aid. Inside the tents the wounded were laid out
in rows, and it Avas horrible to witness the great
gaping wounds and mangled limbs, and to_ hear
ihe agonizing broken-hearted laments of kindred
over kindred, a parent over a child, or a child over
a dying mother, and the rasping of the saw as it
worked its way through human flesh and bone. It
was impossible to get the uninjured inhabitants to
assist, even in carrying the wounded, as they seem
ed to be morally paralyzed, and walked about
mourning over their individual losses, with not a
word of cheer or sympathy nor a gentle deed of
kindness for the lame, mangled, helpless hundreds.
As victim after victim Avas brought to the tents, the
men, lying around waiting for the surgeon, would
laugh and seem to enjoy the agony of their fellow
sufferers ; a sad illustration of how " misery loves
company." Some of the inhabitants would linger
in idleness around the ruins, and, as the bodies

U.S.S. GALENA. 41
with shovel and pick were dug out, claim them as
relatives, and after rifling them of all valuables,
leave the remains to be buried by others. Stringent
measures were adopted to prevent such inhuman
outrages. As the catastrophe Avas general through
out the island, detachments were sent to the vil
lages along the coast and in the interior, to bring
the wounded to where medical aid could be obtained.
In many cases our men carried them in stretchers
for miles over steep hills, through deep valleys, or
around huge, Avinding chasms whicli had opened in
the earth ; undergoing, Avithout a murmur, extreme
physical exertion, requiring patience and endurance
commendable in the highest degree. While at Avork
in the ruins, scenes were continually brought before
us that would excite the sympathy in the breast of
the coldest egotist. In one place a young mother
was found clasping in her arms a new-bom babe, as
that divine maternal instinct had prompted her to
shelter from the cruel stones the young budding
life at the cost of her own. In another place Avere
the bodies of men Avith a pack of cards scattered
around them ; a game Avhere Death had held all the
trump cards. The Turkish Barracks were totally
destroyed, and three hundred soldiers had fought
their last battle, In one of the prisons an English
man had been secretly incarcerated for translating
the Bible into Arabic. When the shocks occurred,
the walls parted and fell outward, and he walked
out without a single injury. Where is the man so
bold as to say that the days of miracles have past ?
Every day frequent shocks occurred, the dust would
rise in clouds, and the ship tremble upon the agi
tated waters. By the 14th of April, the fears of the
demoralized people having been someAvhat allayed,
the wounded sent to Smyrna, and everything that
human science and skill, or a sincere sympathy for
an afflicted people could accomplish had been per-

42 CRUISE OF THE
formed, Ave made preparations for leaving Chio for
Smyrna. The tents were taken doAvn, and every
thing belonging to the ship was brought on board.
Our Captain expressed himself pleased and proud
of the bearing and general conduct of our officers
and men. In a report to the Commander-in-Chief,
he wrote : — " I have been very much pleased with
the zeal exhibited by both officers and men of this
ship, in all the work they have been required to
perform since our arrival at this place." The
highest encomiums of praise would be inadequate
to express the deserving worth and usefulness of
our medical officers ; neither seeking nor wishing
rest day or night, Avhile the stricken people required
their aid, they proved that not only were they mas
ters of tlieir science, but high-toned, kind-hearted,
courteous gentlemen. The following letter was re
ceived from the General Government of the Impe
rial Ottoman Archipelago : — Chio, April 1 (O.S.), 1881.
Captain —
The Central Aid Committee hastens to express to you, in its
own name, and that of the people of Chio, which suffered so
severely by the earthquake, the warmest thanks for the devo
tion which the officers and men on the G-alena have displayed
in the unfortunate affair, in bringing help, so useful, so effica
cious, to the victims of the catastrophe on this Island. Please
accept, Captain, the assurances of my most distinguished con
sideration.
Governor General,
President of Central Aid Committee,
(Signed) Ladig.
About 1 o'clock in the afternoon of the 15th we
weighed anchor and steamed from the never-to-be-
forgotten scene of the terrible phenomenon. The

U.S.S. GALENA. 43
weather was fine and clear, with the wind ahead.
We made the passage of eighty miles in ten hours
and came to anchor in the harbor of Smyrna at 10
o'clock at night. Soon after our arrival a large
fire broke out in the city, burning to the ground
one of our favorite resorts, beautifully illuminating
the sky, and tipping with crimson the gentle waves
of the bay. After tarring down, a week of plea
sant rest followed, allowing us to recuperate after
the harrowing experiences and mental and physical
exertion we had undergone at Chio.

44 U.S.S. GALENA.

CHAPTER IV.
It was then daily expected that the Turks and
Greeks would go to war ; so, for the purpose of
keeping a watchful eye upon American interests, we
left Smyrna on the 23rd of April for a cruise among
the islands of the Archipelago. When clear of the
bay, the topgallant yards were crossed and gear bent
ready for making sail. We arrived at Salonica at
1 p.m. onthe 24th of April, and anchored some dis
tance from the city. The next morning we Avent
nearer in. The aged city of Salonica is a remark
able-looking place, writh high, white-painted walls,
and the tall spires and domes of its many old and
interesting churches towering above them. It has
a population of seventy thousand. In the Mosque
of St. Sophia, tradition says, St. Paul delivered his
Two Epistles to the Thessalonians. The most vivid
recollection we have of Salonica is the immense
number of Jewish peddlers who crowded the ship,
using their persuasive poAvers to sell us old "curios"
made new and new coins made old. No liberty was
given to the ship's company, but the officers Avere
alloAved to go in uniform. We bade adieu to Salo
nica on the 27th of April, bound for Volo, which
was expected to be the theatre of war. Clear wea
ther and a favourable wund brought us there in the •
afternoon of the next day. We found Volo an un
interesting city, with seventeen thousand inhabi
tants. The armies of the Turks and Greeks were
encamped around it, drilling, marching and making
preparations for the expected struggle between
their respective nations, when, once again, the Turk
" At midnight, in his guarded tent,"
Avould be rudely aAvakened from his dreams of con-

CRUISE OF THE 45
quest. Finding there was no urgent necessity for
remaining at Volo, as, apparently, some time would
intervene before active operations would commence,
we took our departure on the 29th of April for
Piraeus, in Greece. We had a delightful trip through
the passage, with bright, clear weather, and scenery
wild and picturesque, if not lovely. We arrived at
Piraeus in the gloaming of the 30th of April, and
moored ship ahead and stern. As we were steaming
in, the men-of-war played our national air. A
Greek man-of-war terribly slaughtered it, and it was
almost impossible to distinguish it from that sad
and solemn combination of sounds apropos with
reverse arms. The city of Piraeus, the principal
port of Greece, is a modern-looking place, as most
of its buildings have been erected since 1834. It
is built on the site of the ancient city of the same
name, almost every trace of which is" buried in
oblivion, except where it lives upon the pages of
History. Thus, on the ruins of the Past are
built the promises of the Future. It would be
hard to imagine that the little bay was once a lai'ge
body of water, upon whose bosom floated the argo
sies of the world, loaded with the treasures of the
East, the amber of the Baltic, the precious pearls of
Arabia, and the gold of Ophir, to barter in exchange
for the civilization of the Greek. Liberty was given
to the ship's company. Upon landing, we wander
ed through the rather uninteresting streets, and
visited the place where, at the Battle of Salamis, a
handful of brave Greeks slaughtered the barbarous
hordes of Xerxes, the boastful King of Persia.
After exhausting the sights, we went to the Dep6t
and took the train for Athens. The road, after wind
ing around the city, ran, for five miles, among beau
tiful groves of olives, or through green pastures
AAvhere droves of sheep feasted upon the rich herbage,
while the shepherds, dressed in Greek costume, with

46 CRUISE OF THE
classic crooks, reminded us of Paris, when, before
he tossed the golden Apple of Discord, he lay dream
ing of fair women. In half-an-hour, which seemed
but a moment, so calm, serene, and ever-beautiful
was the " happy valley," we entered the Dep6t at
Athens. We found Athens a clean, handsome city,
the modern portion having clean, well-paved streets.
Near the principal square is the palace of the King,
and we obtained permission to saunter through the
gardens, where everything that generous Nature
could add to the taste of man had been placed to
enhance and beautify them, while oleanders, verbe
nas and fragrant olives perfumed the air. After
leaving the gardens we visited the Temple of Theseus,
and the lonely, time-stained pillars of the once great
Temple of Jupiter, grand in the conception of the
proud edifice that once rested upon them. Walking
up Mars Hill, we entered the Acropolis, and found
ourselves in a wilderness of sculptured columns of
marble — Ionic, Doric, and Corinthian — laid low in
the dust ; ruined temples were on every side, some
of them still holding upon their walls frescoes which
have, in defiance of tempest and time, held their
color. The Parthenon, the Temple of Wisdom, in
spite of Turk, Christian, or Barbarian, still keeps
enough of its former grandeur to show what the
old Greeks could clo to honor their Gods, before the
"Unknown God" of their philosophers became
known, through the preaching of St. Paul. After
lingering around the ruins and enjoying the loveli
ness of the scene on every side, Ave left the Acropo
lis by scrambling down the ruins of an old theatre
on the side of the hill. We then visited the Prison
of Socrates, which is cut out of the solid rock. Re
turning into the city, we witnessed a grand review
of the Greek army by King George and Queen
Olga. We were standing, waiting for the royal
couple to pass, when a courteous officer politely con-

U.S.S. GALENA. 47
ducted us to where a good view could be obtained.
As we Avere seven or eight in number, and in a ra
ther conspicuous position, the young Crown Prince,
noticing us, drew his father's attention, and the
King, having an admiration for America and its
people, bowed to us, which we returned by raising
our caps. King George is a tall, fair, Avell-made,
military-looking man, while the Queen has one of
those SAveet, loveable faces that artists like to paint
as mothers. A drive along the plains of Attica,
where the famous Olympian Games werej once con
ducted, ended our visit to Athens. It would be
impossible to tell of the thousand-and-one strange
and beautiful things we saw in that city, the home
of Art and Philosophy and the cradle of Civilization.
Athens must be seen to be appreciated, for language
is inadequate to express the subtle charm that ling
ers around its ruined temples and classic memories.
On the 6th of May a rac3 was pulled between
messes Numbers 3 and 4, the prize to be a bag of
the apples of Erin. The race was hotly contested,
and resulted in the victory of Number 3 ; after
Avhich a grand presentation took place, and the
prize was gracefully received by the cook of the
victorious mess, Avho responded with an elegant
spucl-hash the next morning for breakfast.
On the morning of the 7th of May we got under
way and steamed from Greece, our destination being
Castellamare in Italy, where we expected to find
the Trenton. After getting outside, the wind being
fair, we made sail to royals. Toward evening the
Avind Avore ahead and all sails were furled. In the
evening of the 8th we passed through the Straits of
Messina, and, on the next morning, hove-to, it being
a "Field Day." We had General Quarters, clear
ed ship for action, manned and armed boats, aban
doned ship, and fire quarters — quite a formidable
exercise, and lasted the whole day. We continued

48 CRUISE OF THE
hove-to all night, as a man-of-war, when once fully
started, knows no rest until the drills are exhausted.
General Quarters again with target practice, great
and small ; No. 2 gun fired a shell, striking th,e tar
get in the bull's-eye. Toward evening we were con
gratulating ourselves that the drills were over, and
retired to our "dreaming sacks," and Avent to
sleep expecting to enjoy a pleasant journey into the
"Land of Nod." About 4 o'clock in the morning
the drums beat to " General Quarters ; " so, up we
had to tumble, cast loose and provide. Night quar
ters on a man-of-Avar is undoubtedly the most demo
ralizing experience a man can have who has not been
broken-in by long service. To be suddenly awaken
ed by the rolling of a drum, or the gong and
rattle, and see men tumbling out of hammocks,
apparently in a state of inextricable confusion, the
first impressions that flit across your dazed under
standing are, the Day of Judgment, fire, or the
ship's leaking. For a moment you sit up bewil
dered ; then, realizing the truth, get up, jerk on
your trousers, try to get a No. 9 into somebody
else's No. 6, and, because it is impossible, you ana-
themathize ; or you find, after taking the three pre
scribed turns, you have used your neighbour's lash
ing, then you swear a good honest oath with a round
turn. On deck at last, Avith your hammock drag
ging, the end of your lashing wound round your
leg with someone else's foot through the clews.
You finally get clear, the guns are cast loose and
provided, loaded, run out, and, one by one, out into
the black darkness they are fired. " Away, first
boarders ! !" " away riflemen," "marines as sharp
shooters !" and aAvay they go, tumbling over hand-
spikes, sponge and rammer-handles ; the boarders
cutting and slashing hundreds of invisible enemies,
Avhile the riflemen and marines firing, with their
arms elevated at an angle of 45 deg., as if the ene-

U.S.S. GALENA. 49
my were mysterious spirits of Night, and expected to
board us from the dark clouds of heaven. Over at
last, thank heaven ! and ^ye return below in a kind
of subdued feeling. Moral : One more hour for
the Government, one hour less for ourselves. So
let it be ; for Ave are not going to kick — oh, no !
We entered the Bay of Naples, and dropped an
chor at Castellamare on the 11th of May, and found
the flagship, as expected. Castellamare is situated
in the Eastern angle of the Bay of Naples, and has
a population of twenty-six thousand. It is a favo
rite summer resort of the Neapolitans, owing to the
cool, constant north breezes, the beauty of its
scenery, and the health-restoring properties of its
sulphur baths. It is built upon the site of the
ancient city of Stabiae, which was destroyed con
temporarily with Pompeii and Herculaneum. The
day after our arrival we left Castellamare for Ville
franche, under easy ( steam, with the wind ahead, the
weather clear and fine. We AArere compelled to run
into Bastia, in the Island of Corsica, for the pur
pose of coaling ship. In the bright moonlight we
came to anchor in a sea of rippling silver, Avith the
vrhite town clearly outlined against the dark, night-
covered mountains. Bastia is the principal com
mercial seaport of the island, famous as the birth
place of the greatest military genius of all time.
It has a population of twenty-five thousand. The
next morning, May 14th, the ship was coaled, and
the afternoon found us again underway. We came
to anchor at Villefranche about 10 o'clock in the
forenoon of May 15th. While we were mooring ship
the Trenton arrived, and the marine guard paraded
and presented arms. The ship was then thoroughly
cleaned for inspection, and on the 17th the Admiral
and a board of inspecting officers visited us. We
underwent the usual routine and passed satisfactorily.
On the 22nd of May we participated with the other

50 CRUISE OF THE
ships of our squadron in decorating Avith fragrant
flowers the graves of sailors and marines, who,
dying in the service of their country, found a last
resting-place in the little cemetery on the mountain
side. At 1.30 p.m. the crews of the different ships dis
embarked and formed in line under the command of
Lieutenant Commander T. A. Lyons, of the Tren
ton. In the following order we marched up the
Avinding pathway, the men dressed in blue with
Avhite cap-covers, holding in tlieir hands beautiful
bouquets or wreaths of tastefully-arranged flowers
or evergreen : BAND OF THE FLAGSHIP.
Color Guard.
Four Men, bearing Two Pyramids op Flowers.
Two Hundred Men from the Trenton,
Under Ensign Boush and Cadet - Midshipman Parke.
Eighty Men from ihe Nipsic,
Under Lieut. Norton and Ensigns Griffen and Gleaves_
Ninety Men from the Galena,
Under Ensign Nelson and Cadet-Midshipmen Brainard,
Bowden and Bichardson.
Hundreds of visitors from Nice witnessed the
beautiful sight, as, like a huge serpent of flowers,
our men marched up to the sound of martial mu
sic. Upon reaching the cemetery, we were formed
into a square around the enclosure. After the band
had rendered " Nearer, my God to Thee," Lieute
nant-Commander Lyons introduced the orator of
the day, Pay-Director Edward C. Doran, U.S.N.,
who delivered an eloquent panegyric, replete Avith

U.S.S. GALENA. 51
rich sentiments of patriotism, and a touching tribute
to our honoured dead; whether on the battlefields
of our native land, in the vast caves of old Ocean,
or in a foreign land, they sleep the sleep of departed
heroes. After the address was over the column
broke rank, and, alike upon simple mound or
marble shaft, our men, with uncovered heads,
reverently and tenderly placed the choicest gifts of
Nature. Ed. P. Duffy then read a poem, written
for the occasion by Thomas H. Simmons, of the
Trenton. The ceremonies then ending, the detach
ments returned to their respective ships.
On Saturday, the 28th of May, 1881, we steamed
out of the harbour of Villefranche for Cadiz, in
Spain. The U.S.S. Nipsic, having received orders
to accompany us as far as the Rock of Gibraltar,
left at the same time. A kind of pleasant rivalry
existed between the two vessels in relation to speed,
and that being a glorious opportunity to settle it,
there was a secret understanding, clearly obvious,
however, that they would race to the Rock. As soon
as we were clear of the bay, black, angry -looking
smoke poured from the smoke-stacks, giving evi
dence of stir and bustle in the region of the "black
diamonds." The engines began to throb with rein
forced energy, and the propeller to beat with spite
ful determination the unoffending waters. When
Night covered us with her dusky mantle the poor
Nipsic was far astern, and the boys wafted to her
such " good night" greetings as
Shall we tell them you are coming,
In the far-off bye and bye ?
For you are creeping, slowly creeping,
While the s wallo ws homeward fly.
When the morning began to break, we leisurely
walked aft, as we expected the Nipsic was out of
sight. We were laughing, clapping our wings and
crowing " Cock-a-doodle-doo !" when, to our ex
treme surprise and consternation, she was sighted

52 CRUISE OF THE
far ahead. Why is this ?— we asked each other.
Is it possible ? Can it be the Galena is beaten ?
It was self-evident, however, and we all came to the
conclusion, after mature consideration, that : The
Nipsic must have struck a strong current which
carried her rapidly along ; or else some giant of old
Ocean had hitched on his team of dolphins. After
all exertion there is usually a period of relaxation
— so it was with us ; in fact, Ave were going along
so lazily and gently, that a bumboatman, spying us
from shore and thinking we Avere at anchor, came
off to the ship, loaded with luscious-looking fruit,
and, our appetites not having been affected by de
feat, Ave soon filled a vacuum by creating one. As
we wrere passing by the Rock of Gibraltar we ex
changed numbers with the Nipsic, lying snugly at
anchor. We steamed into the harbor of Cadiz on
the morning of June 3rd, and dropjoed anchor,
having made the trip in five days and seventeen
hours. It was then time for general liberty, and
our Captain said he Avould give it, but advised us to
Avait until Ave arrived at Bordeaux. The petty
officers, thinking a " bird in the hand worth two in
the bush," said they would rather have it in Cadiz.
Arriving on shore, we entered the city through one
of the gates in the wall, and found ourselves upon
clean, well-paved streets, crowded with people look
ing more like Spaniards in dress and customs than
Spanish people usually do. The houses were all
built of white stone, giving to the city an appear
ance unusually cleanly; those belonging to the
better class being handsomely ornamented and
sculptured. At every turn beautiful gardens and
squares delightedthe eye, and in the evening shadows
soft-eyed, voluptuous Senoritas and dashing Seiio-
res promenaded and enjoyed life Avith an abandon
now seldom seen except in Spanish cities, where
the good old national customs have not -^one out of

U.S.S. GALENA. 53
fashion. We spent most of our time during the
day in visiting several handsome Cathedrals. In
one of them we saw a statue of the Angel Gabriel,
with his trumpet in hand, ready to call all hands to
the last great " General Muster," and we were
glad to see it was no nearer his mouth than it was
several hundred years ago. At night the town
seemed full of music : guitars, harps, brass bands,
all playing as if to make night fly away upon the
Avings of Melody. After our liberty Avas up, we
returned to the ship, pleased with our visit, having
seen two of the characteristic sights, a genuine
"Fandango" anda "Bull-fight." We took our
departure from Cadiz on the morning of June 13th,
bound for Lisbon, Portugal. All day we steamed
along in sight of land against a head wind, making
about eight knots. The next day the engines were
stopped for a time, as one of the crank-pins became
heated, but as soon as it cooled off we steamed on.
After taking a cast of the lead, wre came to anchor
off the mouth of the River Tagus in seven fathoms
of Avater. At 11.30 a.m. the next morning Ave
hove up anchor, and, in charge of a pilot steamed
up the Tagus. On either side of us were highly-
cultivated plantations, their fields laid out with the
mathematical precision of a square. Hundreds of
wind-mills Avaved their arms, lending animation to
the scene. If the redoubtable Don had chosen that
vicinity for his famous charge, so bewildered would
he have been with the number of the enemy, the
charge would never have been made. After passing
Belem Castle and the old church in wliich Vasco
de Gama said his last Mass, avc dropped anchor off
the city. The site of the city of Lisbon is one of
the most beautiful in Europe. From the water's
edo-e it extends up the steep incline of the hill, with
terrace after terrace of handsome buildings, the
Palace of the King, and the houses of the nobility,

54 CRUISE OF THE
of a creamy whiteness, crowning the summit, sil
houetted against the blue sky or the dark back
ground of the hill. The streets are narrow, preci
pitous, winding and tangled, often ending in cool
sequestered squares, with rustic seats in pleasant
shadows, and fountains with pure, fresh Avater trick
ling from the capacious mouths of grotesquely-
carved animal figures. During the day Lisbon
seemed to sleep, except along the quays, where the
roar of traffic reverberated, or the shrill voices of
fish-women or hucksters broke the stillness of the
"siesta." At night it awakened, and the streets,
public gardens, and theatres, illuminated with my
riads of gas-jets, flashed upon thousands of ladies
and gentlemen in Parisian costumes, promenading,
sipping chocolate, or listening to the music of nu
merous concerts " al fresco." The ruins of several
handsome churches, which Avere destroyed by the
terrible earthquake of 1755, were to be seen and ad
mired by those having an antiquarian turn of mind.
June the 19th, the New York Mercantile Marine
practice-ship St. Mary came into the harbor, and
visiting parties were formed to visit her, when we
exchanged our experiences for the latest news from
home.

U.S.S. GALENA. 55

CHAPTER V.
We left Lisbon and steamed down the broad Ta
gus en route for Vigo, in Spain, on the 20th of
June. After clearing the riArer, and discharging
our pilot, Ave stopped steaming on account of the
throttle-valve getting off the stem, and set the
fore-and-aft sails, but soon after made sail to top
gallant sails hauled close by the wind, port tacks on
board ; course Nor. f N., sea smooth and barometer
steady. About meridian we commenced steaming,
but towards evening banked fires, disconnected the
propeller, crossed royal yards, and set the royals.
During the night the barometer commenced falling,
and the weather became cloudy, followed by a suc
cession of light rain-squalls. The next day Ave
took soundings, and sighted land in the afternoon,
took a pilot on board, steamed up the channel to
Vigo Bay, and anchored about 9 p.m. off the city
of Vigo. Vigo is one of the principal commercial
ports of Spain, Avith its houses built in the pure
Spanish style, with now and then a touch of Moor
ish. It Avas the port at which Wm. M. Tweed was
arrested as he Avas leaving the steamer. It is sel
dom visited by a man-of-Avar, and the Governor
paid a visit to the ship. Our popular Captain
received from a handsome Spanish lady a present
of a beautiful canary, Avhose sweet carolling w ould
often be heard singing greetings to early morn.
About 4.30 p.m., on the 25th of June, Ave steamed
away from Vigo, bound for Santander. The weather
was clear and pleasant, and we made an average of
eight knots, and sighted Finisterre light about 9.40
p.m., two poiuts on the starboard bow. We ar
rived at Santander on the 27th and moored ship to

56 CRUISE OF THE
a buoy. After cleaning ship and setting up rigging,
special liberty was given. Santander is situated
on a magnificent bay, and has about twenty thou
sand inhabitants, and a large commercial trade.
We walked around the city, sampled the native
Avine, and feasted on luscious fruits. The country
surrounding all the Spanish towns along the coast of
Spain, is very beautiful, picturesque, and romantic ;
high mountains covered Avith perennial green, or
rnedioeval- walled cities and ruined chateaux " de
l'Espagne," reminded us of the days of Chivalry,
when every city was a kingdom, and every castle a
knightly stronghold, Fertile valleys where the
peasants worked in contentment among fields of
grain, smiling vineyards and olive groves, or, in the
evening twilight, danced the graceful " bolero "
and sang time-honored ballads, to the sweet strain
of their National instrument. A happy people,
living as their fathers lived before them, and hav
ing no soaring, worldly ambition to exchange the
"even tenor" of tlieir good old ways for modem
innovations. The towns at wliich liberty was given
were very paradises for those soft-hearted and
sometimes soft-headed fellows among us who
sighed for a sight of congenial spirits, wrote son
nets to their mistress's eyebrows, or, like the honest
watch-dog, bayed at the moon. While Avalking
along the streets, these "mashers," whether sailor
or marine, would always be on the watch for a
SAveet spirit who would hear their prayer. A beauti
ful, exquisite symphony in black [this expression is
copyrighted], with eyes that rivalled the stars in
brightness, or the moonlight upon still waters in
softness, would come sailing along, like a saucy fri
gate under full sail, Avhile the evening zephyrs
coquetted with the halyards of her mantilla, float
ing gently behind. The masher might be, perhaps,
filled with public spirit, holding up a lamp-post •

U.S.S. GALENA. 57
as the frigate approached he would promptly let the
lamp-post fall, and, if a sailor, hitch up his trou
sers, smooth the lotus blossom worked upon his
mustering shirt, and heave her a smile suggestive
of bilge-water and sweet spirits of night O ; if
she responded, he would throw her a hawser, take
her in tow, set his studdingsails, and sail up and let
go his anchor in a quiet little corner in some pub
lic square. If a marine, keep your eye on him,
for he is a daisy ; one moment ago he Avas as lim
ber as a ship's pennant in a calm, look at him uoav,
the sly Lothario, the fascinating Lovelace, see how
he straightens the ramrod in his back, gives a fierce
twist to his incipient mustache, and twirls his cane
with a debonaire grace that is just too-too; Avade in,
you darling, and, if you don't subdue her Spanish
fire with a glance, then we will throw up the quill,
eat our shirt, or do any of those reckless deeds of
despairing disappointment. Yes, our boys enjoyed
themselves immensely, and we bid lovely old Spain
a sad farewell for a time, to see what Mademoiselle
had to say for herself. On July 2nd we left San
tander for Bordeaux, in Prance, and after a short
sail, reached the entrance to the Garonne river on
the afternoon of the following day, and slowed
clown to aAvait high tide. About 3.30 we entered
the river and came to anchor off the town of Paul-
liac. Very soon after anchoring, a Frenchman came
off to the'ship with the news of the assassination of
President Garfield. Hoping that the report was
exaggerated, Captain O'Kane sent an officer ashore
to telegraph for reliable information and the answer
verified the sad news. The next morning Ave got up
anchor and steamed up the river to Bordeaux. The
river banks were lined with fine old French estates,
highly cultivated. It Avas just that time of the
year when the green and youth of summer Avas be
ginning to change into the gold and brown of

58 CRUISE OF THE
harvest time, and long rows of tasseled corn and
fields of waving wheat, golden-crowned, rustled
in the wind, with that gentle sound so clear to those
who love a country life. About 1 o'clock we entered
the harbor, and its miles of handsome quays, with
the numerous ships, told of its wealth and commer
cial importance. The ship was moored a few feet
from the dock, a gang-plank only being necessary
to reach the shore. Liberty Avas given to the ship's
company. Bordeaux is one of the handsomest cities
of France, with two hundred and fifteen thousand
inhabitants. The streets are wide, with modern-look
ing houses. The numerous squares and public
gardens are shaded with fine trees, and crowTded,
night and clay, with gay and handsomely- dressed
people, and the evenings are enlivened by the music
of brass bands. Our ship Avas crowded by hundreds
of people eager to see a man-of-war. They came in
a constant stream, and the ship would be full to
overfloAving, while many stood upon the quay,
waiting in turn. On the 14th of July, the anniver
sary of the storming of the Bastille, it being a
national holiday, similar to ©ur 4th of July, Ave
dressed ship and all the merchant ships did like
wise, while above every housetop in the city floated
the tricolor of Prance. It Avas the grandest display
of bunting Ave have ever seen. At night the ship
was beautifully illuminated with. colored lamps,
red, white and blue. In the city a dense crowd of
people had assembled to witness a grand display of
fireworks. The streets were crowded with gay bac
chanals, singing the "Marseillaise," and alive with
the spirit of festivity. Many of us joined heartily
in the merriment, and the courteous monsieurs in
sisted on our having a full share of the lemon and
socla. Many of our officers then obtained leave to
visit the great and gay capital of the Prench. The
Governor of Bordeaux invited our Captain to go on

U.S.S. GALENA. 59
a picnic excursion down the river. As the handsome
steamer left the quay the band played the "Star-span
gled Banner," with the American flag at the fore.
Our visit was now drawing to a close, and we prepared
to leave Bordeaux with sincere regret. The inhabi
tants had been genial, hospitable and courteous, and
we all agreed that our visit there Avas delightful and
charming in every respect. On July 15th Ave un
moored ship and steamed reluctantly away from
Bordeaux, bound for Tangiers in Morocco. Upon
arriving at Paulliac we dropped anchor for the
night. Early the next morning we were again
underway. Our passage was a very pleasant one,
with fair winds and clear sky. We arrived at Tan
giers on July 21st, and moored ship. Tangiers, the
principal seaport of Morocco, is situated upon a
hill, with its houses built in the Moorish style,
wliich looks so handsome in fertile Spain, but so
bare and uncomfortable in sandy Morocco. Vege
tation seemed to grow only under protest, and, if
it is true that the character of a people is influenced
by climate and surroundings, then the Moors haA-'e
a right to the fierce and cruel nature attributed to
them. The harbor has no protection against the
ocean waves, and is almost always rough. The
population is cosmopolitan in character, embracing
a large number of Jews who control the commerce.
It is a rather curious fact, that Avhile they repre
sent the wealth and prosperity of Morocco, they arc
not allowed to leave the Empire, and are often rob
bed and treated with great cruelty. The most vivid
recollection we have of Tangiers is the number of
cheap chickens to be bought, with very long necks,
which looked, poor things ! as if, all their fowl-lives,
they had to stretch them still longer to reach a
single grain of corn. While in Tangiers our officers
participated in a wild boar hunt. If we would
judge by outside appearances, they were very sue-

60 CRUISE OF THE
cessful. At one time the firing was so terrific that
one side of a poor, unfortunate animal was com
pletely shot away, and was distinctly seen by a su
perstitious Moor to bound swiftly over the desert
towarcPthe country of Soudan. The captured side
was brought on board, and, strange to relate, looked
as if several days had elapsed since it had sepa
rated from its more fortunate other half, and, be
sides, a large brand was discovered on the neck,
used by the Moors to distinguish ownership. We
do not wish to cast insinuations, for it may be, un
known to us, a custom in Morocco to brand wild
boars ! In the evening of the 22nd of July, when
the whaleboat was being hoisted, one of the falls
gave way, causing two of our men avIio were in the
boat to fall overboard. The life-buoys were
promptly dropped, and upon tlieir failing to catch
them, the third cutter was quickly lowered and
sent to pick them up, which it succeeded in doing.
The Avind Avas blowing stiff and the sea running
high, so the Captain decided to lose the buoys,
rather than take the risk of recovering them. In
the morning the keen-eyed quartermaster on Avatch
spied the buoys stranded high and dry upon the
shores of Morocco. The Moors were also keen-
eyed, and, under the Moorish salvage laAvs, which
are very liberal in tlieir specifications, proceeded to
take absolute possession. The great spirit of '76 —
"millions for defence, but not one cent for tribute"
— Avhich is engendered in the bosom of every native
of our glorious Republic, cried out an indignant,
nay ! At an order from the 1st Luff., the third
cutter Avas manned, armed and equipped for distant
service, and started in hot pursuit of the avaricious
Moors. The Moors ran nobly, and such a dense
cloud of dust Avas raised as to obscure even the
patches on the nether part of their bloomers ; but
swifter, still swifter, on the wings of indignation

U.S.S. GALENA. 61
fleAv our nimble-footed tars, occasionally pausing to
give a hitch to their unmentionables, but Avith a
grim determination to folloAv that cloud of dust if,
like the Canaanites of old, it took them forty years
to overtake it. The Moors being hotly pressed, and
recognizing the fact that, in the desert, life-buoys
were not life-preservers, concluded to drop them,
Avhereupon our gallant avengers returned with
them in triumph to the ship. We left Tangiers for
the Rock of Gibraltar on July 24th, and, having
head wind, made very sIoav progress, and came to
anchor off the Ragged Staff about 5 p.m. The
ship was coaled and provisioned preparatory to a
cruise along the southern coast of Spain. A pass
age of a few hours carried us from Gibraltar to
Malaga, Avhere we arrivecl and anchored in the
afternoon of the 30th of July. Malaga, from the
sea, somewhat bears a resemblance to a New Eng-
gland town, with its factories and tall chimneys
of red brick, but the resemblance ceases Avhen the
eye is cast upon the noble proportions of the fine
old Cathedral, which was erected during the reign
of Philip II. , or the old Moorish Fort upon the
hill, with its battery, cast in the 16th century.
Liberty was given, and our time was spent in sight
seeing, promenading upon the Alameda, or sipping
old Malaga, and eating the figs and fruits for Avhich
Malaga is famous. On August 1st we left Malaga
for Almeria, and arrivecl there at 10.30 on the morn
ing of the 3rd. Almeria has a population of be
tween thirty and forty thousand. Along the
Avaterfront are many handsome buildings of a com
mercial character, and in the rear of the toAvn,
upon a steep hill, are old Moorish walls and forts.
We only remained there about tAventy-four hours,
and left on August 4th for Alicante. After leaving
the harbor Ave stopped steaming and made sail.
The weather was clear and bright; rather too

62 CRUISE OF THE
warm during the day, but in the shade of evening
the pleasant sailing amply repaid us for the mid
day heat. During the night of the 5 th Ave again
commenced steaming, and at 10.30 the roll of the
drum called us to General Quarters. We then had
a short drill and were piped doAvn. We came to
anchor in the harbor of Alicante on the morning
of August the 6th. Alicante is a well-built city,
situated at the base of a rough, rocky, conical-
shaped hill, with the old Castle of Santa Barbara
on its summit. The city has a population of forty
thousand. On the 8th of August Ave lef t. Alicante
for Valencia, and arrivecl there on the morning of
the 9th. Valencia is quite a handsome city, upon
a level plain, three miles from the sea. Its many
gardens, tall Cathedral spires, and numerous public
buildings give it the appearance of a large city.
The houses are large and gloomy, and are built of
a plain, grey stone, with a dearth of ornament. It
Avas once the home of a distinguished class of paint
ers, the Valencia school. On August the 11th, at
5.30 p.m., we got underway for Tarragona. A
pleasant trip of two days under royals, during
which we had target-practice, brought us to Tarra
gona. Liberty Avas given to the ship's company.
Tarragona is erected on the summit, down the side,
and at the base of a hill 179 feet in height. It is
an interesting city to an antiquarian, with its ruins
of old Roman walls and buildings, its magnificent
Cathedral and Archbishop's Palace, an ancient
tower, and the numerous landmarks left by the
Phoenicians, Celts, Goths, Romans, and Moors. In
the days when Rome ruled the world it had a popu
lation of over one million, but, through the inter
vening centuries down to the present time, fire and
the sword have laid low its greatness, and reduced
the number of inhabitants to one hundred and
eighty-five thousand. It was the birth-place of

U.S.S. GALENA. 63
Pontius Pilate. The house in which he was born is
still standing, and is used for a prison. We left
Tarragona for Barcelona, on the morning of the
17th, and arrived there in the afternoon of the same
clay. The ship w'as then thoroughly painted inside
and out. Liberty was given to the ship's company.
Barcelona is one of the handsomest cities in Spain,
Avith wide streets and imposing buildings, many of
them built of pure white marble. The Rambla,
the fashionable promenade, is one of the most mag
nificent streets in Europe, planted Avith fine rows of
shady trees. In the afternoon and evening it is
crowded with people upon pleasure bent, and has
the appearance of a continued festival. We were
visited by the Captain- General of Catalonia. This
was the rank, yoii remember, a certain distinguished
General aspired to in our country. Our boys en
joyed this visit to Barcelona, and we were sorry to
leave. That was the last place we ever visited in
Spain, and there our cruise along the southern coast
of Spain ended. The weather had been perfectly
delightful, and many pleasant hours of recreation
and profit we spent in the land of the Cavalieras.
We steamed away from Barcelona for Villefranche
on the 22nd of August, and, making good time,
entered the harbor of Villefranche in the evening
of the following day. We were always pleased
when returning to our adopted home, for there Wil
liam has his ".Black-eyed Susan," and Miss Nancy
Lee stands upon ihe quay, and waves a welcome to
her sailor lover. By that time we Avere no longer
strangers, and the boat ladies would give us an
honest shake of the hand, with a tender squeeze,
suggestive, as the casejmight be, of constancy, ar
rears or a continuation of custom. We found the
Trenton and Juinnebang in the harbor. Ten days
of uninterrupted rest then followed Avith plenty of
liberty and pleasant trips to Nice, and only the rou-

64 CRUISE OE THE
tine drills and exercises on board ship. On Sep
tember the 3rd we received orders to proceed
to Leghorn for repairs; and in the afternoon
A\-e Avere underway, standing out of the bay.
The Trenton's commission having nearly expired,
and as, very soon, "Westward, ho!" she would
shape her course to the dear old land beneath the
sunset, we manned the rigging and gave her three
hearty old American cheers, which were respond
ed tOj'in a volume of sounds that could only come
from the lungs of homeward-bounders, while the
band played the charming old airs of " Yankee
Doodle," and "Old Black Gal, get out of the
Wilderness." A pleasant night's passage brought
us to Leghorn on the following morning. Arrange
ments were immediately made to have the ship
caulked and engines repaired, and very soon the
ship re-echoed the busy sound of the caulkers at
Avork. While the work was going on, we were
given general liberty, We left the ship with plea
sant expectations, for before us were the Avonders of
Leghorn, Pisa, Florence, and, to those whose
" boodle " would stand the strain, Rome the Eter
nal. Leghorn, with a population of one hundred
thousand, is one of the principal seaports of Italy.
A large number of steamers and sailing ships leave
its harbor yearly, loaded with Italian marble and
alabaster for the sculptors of other lands. The
breakwater, crescent-shaped, and built of huge
blocks of granite, is one of the finest in Europe,
and is used during the hot, sultry summer evenings
as a promenade. The houses are rather plain, but
the streets are wide and well paved. Along the
waterfront are handsome gardens, with bath-houses
at the water's edge, giving the city, from the offinc,
the appearance of a watering-place. We found
everything in Leghorn reasonable, especially the

U.S.S. GALENA. 65
small vices. Many took the train to Pisa with its
Leaning Tower, Cathedral and Baptistry, or for
Florence, the "Athens of Italy," the home of all
that Art can design, or Nature can decree ; with
its noble palaces, temples of art, museums, statues,
paintings, fountains, and, last but not least, the
lovely, winding, silver river Arno of poesy, span
ned by handsome bridges, Avhere lovers meet as in
the olden clays, to " kiss and never tell," in the
clear moonlight. Our visits to the above-named
cities were as delightful as a soft genial climate, a
love of novelty, or a reverence for the Avorks of
great men Avho have left behind them " Footprints
on the sands of time," could make them. We
visited, in Leghorn, tAVO of those monster ironclads
which Avere being built to carry one hundred-ton
guns and fitted Avith two propellers, all the steering
gear being below the water-line. Four pleasant
wreeks had noAV passed, and the Galena, caulked and
repaired, was as taut and seaworthy as ever. The
sails, which were unbent upon our arrival, were
rebent, and we iWaited patiently the same order
that was given to Dickens' poor little Joe, to "move
on!" The expected order arrived, and, on the
evening of October 4th, Ave left Leghorn and
sunny Italy, for Smyrna. We started with clear
Aveather, but it soon changed to Avet and disagree
able. We had been having such perfect weather,
along the Spanish main, we were, to a certain ex
tent, spoiled, and the trip to Smyrna was pro
nounced one of the most trying of our cruise. If
it had been a good, strong, honest gale, we could
have better endured it, but it Avas damp, drizzly,
murky, and cloudy — a time when the fondest
shipmates groAvl at each other, or curse the Fates,
Muses, Graces, and the Navy, past, present and
future. On the 7th of October we stopped at Mes
sina for the purpose of coaling ship. It was ra-

66 CRUISE OF THE
pidly accomplished, and, about 4 o'clock in the
afternoon, we steamed awray from Messina and pass
ed through the straits. We moved against head
winds until the 11th, when the wind hauled around,
and, under sail and steam, AA'e arrived at Smyrna at
10.30 p.m. on the same day. We left that port on
the 13th for Salonica, and came to anchor outside
the harbor on the next afternoon. In the evening
Ave witnessed one of those gorgeous, magnificent
Greek sunsets, Avhere the sun sinks to rest in a
golden sea of glory, and the evening clouds, silver-
lined and fringed Avith crimson, are painted Avith
the most exquisite combination of rich color and
dreamy tints. It Avas a scene of Nature in her
grandest moments, Avhen, Avith dainty hand, she
sets in the heavens her most perfect mosaics. In
the morning we steamed up the bay and came to
anchor. On the 18th of October we left Salonica
for Volo. We carried Avith us the American Con
sul, to settle some trouble that had arisen at that
place. We arrived there on the 19th and found an
American citizen had been imprisoned by the Turks,
upon the accusation of being a brigand. They
refused to give him up upon demand, whereupon
our Captain, knowing brigandage Avas not an Ame
rican accomplishment, notified the authorities to
release him, or he avouIc! shell the to Ara. They, not
being able to withstand the seductive power of
such insinuating persuaders as shell and shrapnel,
released him forthwith. We departed from Volo on
the 22nd of October, and returned to Smyrna,
arriving there on the morning of the 23rd. A
large mail awaited us, containing an order from the
Department to half-mast our flag, for our ill-fated
President was at last relieved from the pain and
trouble of this vale of sorroAv.

U.S.S. GALENA. 67

CHAPTER VI.
We Avaved a last farewell to Eastern lands, as the
Galena steamed aAvay from Smyrna on the 21st of
October. Our destination was Palermo, in Sicily.
On the 2nd of November we were caught in a vio
lent sou' -wester, Avhich gave us a good shaking-up
for forty-eight hours. During this gale a fire broke
out in the cabin, but Avas discovered and promptly
extinguished by the orderly on watch, at the ex
pense of his cape and overcoat. He was promised
another ; and Ave respectfully ask, if "Hell is paved
Avith good intentions," Avhy is it not roofed with
broken promises P A calm succeeded the storm,
and Ave Avere exercised at target-practice. We
arrived at, and came to anchor in the harbor of
Palermo on November 5th, and moored ship. Pa
lermo is situated in a valley, with high mountains
around it, and ranks, in size and commercial im
portance, among the first cities of Europe. The
streets are well laid out ; the houses are handsome,
with flat roofs and numerous cosey balconies ; while,
above them, in pleasant contrast, tower the domes
and spires of fine cathedrals Avithin AAdiose vaults
lie the bodies of Emperors and Kings. Magnifi
cent drives wind through the fertile valley, beyond
the walls. Until late years, it was dangerous to
leave the city, as fierce brigands lay in Avait for ven
turesome tourists, but noAV the noble brigand only
lives upon the pages of "yellow-backs," printed
for the special edification of the Italian " small
boy." We visited the famous Catacombs, where
four thousand monkish skulls looked at you out of
their hollow eyes. One old monk had preserved
his tongue after death for never telling a lie while

68 CRUISE OF THE
in life. Our immortal Washington, it seems, was
not the only human being who never told a lie.
On the 11th of November we left Palermo for
Villefranche, and arrived there on the 13th. We
found the Nipsic at anchor. The Galena then
received a thorough cleaning, and was painted and
put in apple-pie order, hoping to make a good im
pression on our new flagship, Lancaster, which was
daily expected. Odds were given by us, that we
would occupy the enviable position of favorite, or
"chicken," as it were. We forgot entirely that
"the best-laid plans of mice and men gang aft
aglee." She arrived on the 26th of November, and
you can imagine our dismay, when, instead of lying
snugly at ease under the protecting wings of the
mother hen, we were ordered to the West Coast of
Africa ! The Juinnebang arrived the same day.
On the 3rd of December we were inspected by
Rear- Admiral J. W. A. Nicholson and Staff, and
passed in a creditable manner. After making pre
parations for going to sea, we left Villefranche for
Gibraltar on the 8th December. A gale of twenty-
four hours occupied our attention, after which the
weather cleared and continued pleasant. We ar
rived at Gibraltar on the 12th of December and
moored ship at our usual moorings. Liberty was
given, and we went ashore, not only for the pur
pose of viewing the wonders of the Rock, but also
to lay in a supply of personal stores for our voyage
down the coast. After all stores had been pro
cured, including an immense quantity of the
before-mentioned jam, we left Gibraltar for Tan
giers and arrived there at 3.15 in the afternoon. We
left Tangiers the next day for Las Palmas, in the
Canary Islands. The fires were hauled as soon as
the straits were cleared, and sail made to royals
before a fair wind. The ship continued under sail
until the morning of the 18th, when the breeze

U.S.S. GALENA. 69
died aAvay, leaving the sails flapping heavily against
the rigging. They were then shortened and furled,
the propeller coupled, and, under steam, Ave made
an .average of 8.8 knots. At quarters the day fol
lowing, the wind having again become available, we
made sail to royals. On the 20th of December,
after all sails were furled and royal yards sent down,
we came to anchor off the town of Las Palmas,
Grand Canary Island, about 2.30 p.m. For the
first time during our cruise the Galena was qua
rantined. After the quarantine was raised, which
lasted three days, the ship was coaled, and the
caterers sent ashore to buy fresh stores for our
Christmas dinner. The landing was very primi
tive in its conveniences, and they were compelled
to jump from the boats into shallow water and
wade ashore. After their return our ship began to
have the appearance of an immense fruiter, or
gigantic bumboat, being artistically decorated
with bunches of bananas, heads of cabbages, strings
of onions, and other odoriferous products. Christ
mas Eve we left Las Palmas for Free Town, in the
province of Sierra Leone, on the Coast of Africa.
After clearing the harbor our fires were hauled and
propeller disconnected. Not long after losing
sight of land, we struck the glorious old " Trade
Winds," the sailors' friend, and with every inch of
canvas drawing, we sailed rapidly through the water.
On Christmas morning the sun rose bright and
warm and the sky clear and blue, with only a few
beautiful, snow-white fleecy-cloud islands, motion
less upon its ocean of infinity. On the berth-deck,
above the tables, bright-colored bunting hung in
graceful festoons, while on them were arranged, in
tasteful profusion, the fruits of the Tropics ; fat,
amber-colored bananas, pyramids of golden oranges,
peaches wdiose blushing cheeks had stolen from
evening the glow of the sunset. Among the sub-

70 CRUISE OF THE
stantials could be seen the familiar turkey, and the
fat capon ; in short, they Avere groaning beneath
the Aveight of everything calculated to make the
heart light and the stomach heavy. _ One of the
messes intended having an old-fashioned plum-
pudding, with little blue flames craAvling over its
surfaces ; but the design fell through, on account
of the alcohol bought for the purpose mysteriously
evaporating through the cork of the bottle. At
noon Captain O'Kanc and many of _ the officers
visited and inspected the lay-out, giving praise
Avhere praise was due, and Avishing us a " Merry
Christmas." We then ' fell-to ; let us mercifully
draAv a veil over the scene of desolation that fol
lowed. The week after Christmas was " Life on
the Ocean Wave," as sung by a " prima donna,"
delightful in every respect. The awnings were
spread, and the wind, steadfast as faith, kept the
ship steady upon the water. For hours not an order
Avould be given and not a sound heard except the
burn of pleasant conversation, or the silver ripple
at the bow. It is true, the sun shone with tropical
poAver, but the wind and aAvnings broke the force
of its rays, and left us as cool and happy as — as
sailors can be, on such occasions. In the evening,
during the dog-watch, the sounds of glee-singers
Avould be heard — one moment singing sentimental
songs that Avould make a crocodile weep real tears ;
the next, they Avould be swrearing " We won't go
home till morning," or be climbing, "up in that
back room," Avhere sits, "O'Brien with his high
Avater pants." It was a time Avhen the great and
glorious "chaw" revelled in special bliss, and
Avould, like Tennyson's brook, " go on for ever," if
time could be retarded in its flight. Seated on the
spar-deck, each one Avith his little court of admirers
around him, they Avould tell of the past— of the
times they had, Avhen, on the "last ship," or in

U.S.S. GALENA. 71
the "Tidalyatalay," they sailed around the Avorlcl.
Some of them, of course, Avere shipmates Avith
Admiral Farragut, and tied him in the rigging with
their own hands, or heard him " damn the torpe
does !" — many of them shot that last gun on the
Cumberland, before she made the final plunge be
neath the waters. It would be impossible to f'olloAV
these salt-sea Munchausens, as there is nothing, in
the heaven above or on the earth beloAv, that has
not, at some time, come under their all-observant
eyes. For the information of those who have never
travelled — and, therefore, never suffered, — Ave Avill
class the specimens under discussion. First, there
is the everlasting, eternal bore of a chaw, who Avas
never blessed with a single idea, but, like a phono
graph, would grind out, in endless repetition, the
jokes of others, as stale as limburger and as flavor
less as hothouse violets ; there is no use getting
hysterical, or, on bended knees, imploring him to
have mercy, to spare your life for the sake of seven
unborn babes, for talk he must, even if the
heavens fall or around him lay the bodies of his
best friends in the last gasp of ennui. Secondly, there
is the lively, vivacious, interesting chaAv, an intel
lectual bee, who flits from floAver to flower sipping
the honey and magnanimously sharing it Avith his
friends ; he holds you spellbound while he spreads
his little wings and flies to empyrean heights, or,
like Jules Verne, takes " a journey to the centre of
the earth." There is the sentimental chaw, the
" what-do-you-say ?" chaw, and the chaw on the
Italian method, who shrugs his shoulders, elevates
and depresses his eyebrows, curls his upper lip, and
has the antics of Baxter-street or Saml-of-Posen
down to a science. Last, but not least, the old
army chaAV stalks into the arena. In a certain
Marine Guard there are some of this class. In the
days that tried men's souls, one of them wore the

72 CRUISE OF THE
blue the other the gray, and, in the dewy shades of
even, they strike together the flint and steel of
memory, igniting a spark which soon kindles a flame
that lights up the past. Says George Flint : In '63,
my corps Avas a servin' in the Valley of Virginny.
So, one day, my company was put in a line of
skirmishers. I was squattin' behind a low, skimpy
briar-bush, a firin' at a blarsted Yank behind a
blarsted pine and" — "What !" says Steel, " was that
you behind that bush ?" "I should snicker," says
Flint. "Wall, I am darned," says Steel, "if
that t'other fello av wrarn't me!" and the two old
soldiers, once enemies, would fall on each other's
neck and weep tears of joy, because they had not
shot into the silver cord, but had both lived to fight
under the same flag and eat the same government
rations. In the meantime, we were sailing along,
and, on the 31st of December, sighted land two
points on the starboard boAV, which proved to be
the Cape-de-Verdes. At eight bells on the night
of the old year, the officer of the deck was stand
ing on the poop, trumpet in hand. As the hands
of the clock were gathering in the flying minutes
and were rounding the last circle of time in the
dying year, he cried out in stentorian tones : —
" Messengah, Messengah, stand hy the bell,
The Old Year is dying and all is well."
Half a minute of silence and again : —
" Ring out the Old Year, ring in the new
Eighteen hundred and eighty-two."
At 6 p.m. on the 1st of January, 1882, we started
fires and steamed in and came to anchor in the
harbor of Free Town. Sierra Leone is a British
colony, with Free Town as the capital. It has a
population of forty-one thousand, and is very
unhealthy. During the wet season the rain pours
clown in never-ceasing torrents, saturating the im
mense vegetation that lies hidden in the almost

U.S.S. GALENA. 73
impenetrable forests. In the dry season the power
ful rays of the sun heat the damp moss, causing
poisonous vapors to arise, bearing in tlieir deadly
mists the germs of an epidemic. After coaling
ship we got underway for Monrovia, the capital of
Liberia. We had an agreeable passage, and an
chored there January the 6th. The Republic of
Liberia was founded in 1822, by free Negroes from
the United States. It has a population of 600,000.
The Constitution is modelled upon the same plan
as that of the United States, with a President and
Vice-President, a Senate and House of Representa
tives. The country is very rich in ivory, rice,
coffee, sugar, indigo and palm-oil. Monrovia, the
capital, has a population of 14,000. The houses
are low and simple in architecture, many of them
being built of mud. The great beauty of Liberia •
is its tropical growth of tall palms, and its many
well- cultivated plantations. We met several men
who had lately emigrated from the United States,
and they expressed a wash to get back once more
to their old home. While at Monrovia it became
necessary, on account of the extreme heat, to ship
a crew of native boatmen. They came on board
and remained with us until we returned to Mon
rovia. There were twelve in all, including the
head krooman who went by the succulent name of
Tom Coffee. The names of the others as entered
on the ship's log were as follows : Jim George,
Thomas Bestman, Joe Blackman, Jack Monrovia,
Jack Crowbar, Jacob Ropeyarn, Jack Peasoup,
John BoavI, Jack Savage, Jim Doughboy, and Jack
After-supper, the latter being cook. They were a
fine, healthy looking set of men, Avith broad chests
and wiry limbs, and possessed a great capacity for
stowing away Government supplies, and not very
particular as to quality ; in fact, were as useful to
the Pay Department as an unlimited number of

74 CRUISE OF THE
"Boards of Survey." In dress they adhered to
the fig-leaf fashion of primitive man, like our first
parents, before the Angel with the flaming sword
changed them from Epicureans into Agriculturists.
Many little picaninies would roAV around the ship
in little canoes and dive for pennies, dressed in the
free-and-easy costume of beauty unadorned. The
dusky belles of Monrovia costume themselves in a
palm-leaf fan and a pocket handkerchief. While
we acknowledge that it Avould not do for a Fifth
Avenue belle, it must be delightfully cool and con
venient. On the 7th of January Ave left Monrovia
for Cape Palmas, farther down the coast. We
arrived there on the day following, and came to
anchor at Harpers Anchorage, off the town of
Palmas. The town is built on the extreme end of
the Cape, and looked pretty and rural, Avith the
white houses peeping out from among symmetrical
palms, with bright green foliage. We left Cape
Palmas on the 9th for Monrovia, and arrived there
on the morning of the 10th. The kroomen were
then discharged, and we steamed away from Mon
rovia for Porto Praya, in the Island of St. Jago,
one of the Cape de Verdes. On the morning of
the 12th, when the crew were being exercised at
general quarters, Chas. F. Harden, apprentice, had
his arm broken. The gun was pivoted to port and
ready to run out ; he was overhauling the in-tackle,
when the ship rolled, causing the gun to run out,
and his arm caught in a turn of the tackle. We
all felt very sorry for him as he was one of our
brightest boys. We came to anchor in the harbor
of Porto Praya on the 16th of January. The ship
Avas coaled and the rigging set up, as the extreme
heat caused it to relax. On the 18th we steamed
away from Porto Praya for Porto Grande, in the
Island of St. Vincent, one of the same group, and
arrived there on the next day. At that place Ave

U.S.S. GALENA. 75
first received the neAVs of the foundering of the
unfortunate Jeannette, so long lost among the ice
fields of the frozen sea. Porto Grande is a busy,
bustling little seaport, and the harbor was full of
shipping, including several men-of-war. One of
the sights having a national interest for us was
the profile of Washington, carved by Nature, on
one of the hills.
In the evening of the 20th we left Porto Grande
for Santa Cruz, in the Island of Teneriffe. It being
evident Ave Avould have head-Avinds all the passage,
Ave unrove topgallant gear and sent clown topgallant
yards and masts. On the morning of the 24th we
sighted, on the starboard bow, the Peak of Tene
riffe. To the great surprise of future readers of
this cruise, Ave distinctly affirm and positively de
clare, that we did not see the wonderful mirage ;
and also claim the honor of being the only chroni
clers of travel Avho, in that latitude, saAV Nature in
its normal condition — the trees growing as the Cre
ator intended they should, and the ships sailing on
the blue waters, and not among the white clouds.
The sea was rough, and we could not enter the har
bour of Santa Cruz, and it became advisable to an
chor in Comfital Bay, in the Grand Canary. The
following clay, the wind having fallen slightly, we
got underway and entered the harbor of Santa
Cruz. We received the largest mail of any during
our cruise, which had to be whipped over the side.
After taking in provisions we got underway for
Funchal, Madeira. A pleasant trip followed,
passing between Petra Rocks and the Grande Sal
vage Islands. We arrivecl at Madeira on January
29th and moored ship. On the 1st of February we
left Madeira for Gibraltar, and stopped at Tangiers
en route, where we were visited by Lord Clanmorris
and Lady Brassey. The latter has Avritten several
interesting books of voyages in her yacht. The

76 CRUISE OF THE
American Consul, Felix A. Matthews, and his daugh
ter came onboard as passengers to the Rock. Un
February 6th we arrived there and dropped anchor.
Thus ended a cruise in which we were agreeably
disappointed. We had looked forward to being
roasted alive beneath the sweltering heat of the
Tropics, but we returned only parboiled, having
luxuriated in the luscious fruits which ripen upon
the shores of the " dark continent."
After coaling ship, we left Gibraltar for Ville
franche on February 7th. The next morning we
sighted a ship, supposed to have been the Nipsic.
As the Carnival would soon commence in Nice, the
Quartermaster "looked through a glass darkly,"
and could not read her number. A pleasant trip
brought us to anchor at Villefranche on the 11th of
February. At the sundown evolution, on the day
we arrived, a sad accident occurred, which cast a
gloom over the ship's company. John Marton,
Captain of Mizzen-top, trusted his weight on one
of his arms which had been previously broken,
causing him to lose his hold and fall to the deck,
striking on his head and shoulders. He was killed
almost instantaneously, and the spirit of poor John,
who, one moment before, was an active, kind-hearted,
genial shipmate, had taken its flight. It is always
a time of great sadness when a shipmate leaves us
for that unknown land from whose dark, mysteri
ous shores no traveller returns. We mourned for
our lost messmate and friend, and joined heart and
hands in hoping that his bark of life had reached
its haven. On the following day a funeral party,
m charge of Lieutenant H. W. Lyon, laid his re
mains to rest beneath the orange and the myrtle in
the silent little city on the hill.
General liberty was given to the ship's company,
to enable them to participate in the enjoyments of
the Carnival, which was held in Nice from the 14th

U.S.S. GALENA. 77
to the 21st. Upon arriving at Nice, we found the
Carnival in all its glory. The streets were crowded
with fantastic masks, in every color of the rainbow,
while carriages in procession moved slowly along,
their grotesque-looking occupants opening fire upon
the promenaders, and, in turn, bombarded with those
tantalizing little missiles that " sticketh closer than
a brother." Our boys masked and joined heartily
in the merriment, and woe be she who came within
range of their deadly fire ! The most interesting
part was the " Battle of the Flowers," when the red
and white roses once more met in fierce combat.
The air was full of bouquets, and the streets re
sounded with joyous laughter, as some well-aimed
shot reached its mark. After the cremation of King
Carnival we returned on board, delighted with our
visit, and hoping that the merry old monarch would
have many pleasant resurrections. Most of our
fellows had, of course, their little romance to tell :
how, in some brilliant ball-room, they had capti
vated a beautiful mask in gray and silver, and, upon
seeing her home to a romantic villa, with Turkish
carpets, and chandeliers of gold, the fair incognita
turned out to be the Duchess of Taffy or the Prin
cess of Yall. Of course, they were invited in to
a rich repast, set in a bower of roses, and tenderly
served with dainties and wines as rich and rare as
the ambrosia and nectar of the Gods. Verily..
verily, a Carnival is a glorious institution for the
stupendous stretching of elastic imaginations !
While we were in Villefranche the little dory,
" City of Bath," arrived there. Two adventurous
sailors, Trainor and Olsen, made the passage across
the Atlantic in 49 days. It was a daring feat, but,
pecuniarily, was not a success, and a purse was rais
ed among our ship's company, to enable them to
return. The dory was placed on exhibition in Nice.
She wr'as 5 feet beam and 14 feet long. On the

78 CRUISE OP THE
22nd we dressed ship in honor of Washington's
birthday. On the 2 3rd our officers gave a grand ball.
The ship was handsomely draped with bunting and
decorated with bouquets and baskets of flowers,
tastefully arranged, and their fragrance, mingling
with the delicate cloud of incense that lingered
lovingly around graceful forms of beauty, made the
quarter-deck, indeed, resemble some bower in Ar
cadia. All the elite and fashion from Nice chased
the nimble hours with flying feet. It wras a decided
success, and reflected great credit on the managers.
Our popular Captain was presented with a hand
some design of the American Flag in red roses and
white camelias. It was a work of art, and deserved
ly admired by all. On March 9th we received
orders to shift our moorings to No. 1 buoy, to make
room for the French Fleet, which was hourly ex
pected. It arrived in the afternoon, and was com
posed of five ships, carrying a Rear and a Vice-
Admiral. Monsters in size, and in appearance very
strong and handsome, they made us realize that a
AArell-built man-of-war is the acme of human inge
nuity and mechanical skill.

U.S.S. GALENA. 79

CHAPTER VII.
Our pleasant rest there being ended, we steamed
away from Villefranche on the 13th of March for
Palermo. We reached Palermo, after a pleasant
passage, on the 16th, and dropped anchor outside,
as it was impossible to obtain mooring room. On
the 18th, however, we went in. The greatest part
of our stay at Palermo was marred by rough
weather ; and we were compelled to let out extra
mooring chains and hawsers until the ship seemed
to cling to the bottom with the tenacity of despair,
as if some playful zephyr would unexpectedly, like
the Genii did the little boy in the story, whisk her
off to parts unknown. We left Palermo for Malta
on the 30th of March, and arrived there on the 1st
of April. The city of Valetta is built around a
neck of the sea which runs some distance into the
island and foims one of the finest harbors in the
Mediterranean. Forts of great strength guard
the narrow entrance, upon whose battlemented
walls the red-coated sentinel vralks his post. There
is little beauty in the scene, as the forts give it the
appearance of sternness, and the houses and Avails
are built of a dirty-looking earth-colored stone
with no variety of color to relieve the sameness of
the view. Liberty was given. We walked through
the principal streets, filled with slowly sauntering
promenaders, English soldiers in white pipe-clayed
blouses and jockey caps, on the look-out for seiwant
girls on leave. BroAvn-eyecl, gentle little Maltese
women with long black veils, who looked as if they
had assumed the nature of their celebrated cats
and wanted to purr, or if, by some deplorable
accident, they had trod on a worm would turn and

80 CRUISE OF THE
and apologize. The men of Malta are small in
stature and effeminate, but with a prodigious deve
lopment of the bump of self-interest. Malta is the
only place on earth where a Jew cannot make a liv
ing, for the Maltese, they say, can bargain Beelzebub
out of Hades and sell the fuel at a profit. We
visited the celebrated Church of St. John, with its
magnificent proportions, fine paintings, and splendid
collection of arms, weapons and numerous other
relics of the brave old Knights of St. John, who,
in the days of Chivalry, couched the lance and
charged the enemies of the oppressed in the name
of fair women; or fought with the lion-hearted
Richard against the fierce Saracens upon the plains
of Palestine. It would be impossible here to enu
merate all the wonders of Malta, and a whole his
tory of its delights is contained in the sentence :
" Good old brown stout and pale ale could be ob
tained at a low figure." Every evening we were
entertained by the music of a brass band that earne
on board, and the gangAvays Avere alive with couples
" A la Stag," lost in the labyrinths of the "mazy."
We received a visit from Admiral Seymour, Avho
afterwards commanded at the bombardment of
Alexandria. On the 5th of April we bid adieu to
Malta and shaped our course for Leghorn, in Italy,
where the remainder of our squadron had rendez
voused. A trip of three clays, with nothing of
special moment, brought us to anchor at Leghorn
on the 8th of April. All sail were then unbent,
the ship's yards and masts painted, and the Galena,
notwithstanding the hard work she hadaccomplished,
looked as fresh as a daisy, and as neat and hand
some as the clay she was commissioned. On several
occasions our Naval Brigade was landed upon the
breakwater and exercised in marching and counter
marching. Many visitors came on board, and one
of them, a young gentleman of lofty aspirations

U.S.S. GALENA. 81
climbed into the mizzen-top ; and, while enjoying
the beauty of the scenery, several of the miz'zen-
topmen caught and tied him to the rigging until
he had promised to pay the usual penalty.
On the 26th of April our Captain and Executive
went on leave, and, in their absence, it becoming
necessary for the Galena to proceed to Villefranche
Avith the Lancaster and the Quinnebang, Lieut-
Commander C. P. Goodrich, of the Flagship, Avas
ordered on board to take temporary command. We
left Leghorn on the 27th of April. At 9.25 p.m.
a signal was suddenly made for general quarters,
and the pivot-gun of the Galena was the first to
tell of superior drill and active discipline. On the
morning of the 28th Ave arrived at Villefranche
and moored ship. In the afternoon of the clay we
arrivecl Captain O'Kane reported on board from
leave, and having been previously served Avith orders
of detachment, turned over the ship to his succes
sor in command, Commander O. A. Bacheller,
U.S.N. We were sorry to lose him, for his many
acts of kindness had endeared him to us, and he had
made the Galena (the highest compliment that can
be paid a ship) a "home." We were in hope,
however, that the future would unfold as pleasant a
prospect as the past. Our hopes haAre been realized ;
thus shoAving that he wdio puts his trust in the
second sister of the lovely triumvirate is seldom
disappointed. The U.S.S. Nipsic soon followed us into the har
bor, and the whole Squadron was then intact. On
the 4th of May the Squadron sailed away from
Villefranche for Port Mahon, on the Island of
Minorca, for the purpose of spending several weeks
in drill. After clearing the bay, the ships took
their places in line according to seniority in the
following order: Lancaster, Nipsic, Quinnebang,
Galena. During the day they were exercised in

82 CRUISE OF THE
fleet manoeuvres and sail drill. While sailing
leisurely along, the Admiral depending upon the
boasted superiority of his flagship, suddenly made
signal to shift topsails. Well, now,— shifting top
sails Avas our best hold, and that fact soon becoming
evident, he piped down. We arrived at Minorca
on the 6th of May, entered the arm of the pea,
called by courtesy a river, and steamed up its wind
ing passage for three miles to Port Mahon, where
it spreads out into a little spoon-shaped bay. The
city of Mahon is situated upon cliffs almost over
hanging the water. The houses are of Spanish
architecture and painted Avhite Avith green English
blinds. There is very little beauty about Port
Mahon with the exception of the finely- cultivated
country surrounding it. At one time it was the
headquarters of the American, Spanish, English
and French fleets in the Mediterranean. Our
sailors in those days often came into collision Avith
foreign men-of-war's men. On one occasion seve
ral American sailors Avere severely handled by a
larger body of Frenchmen, and upon the news of
the skirmish reaching the ship (the Java we believe)
over a hundred sailors swam ashore and routed the
enemy, driving them as far as GeorgetoAvn, and, if
tradition speaks truly, some of them were driven on
doAvn the dark valley of the shadovv. Permission
having been obtained for us to land the brigade, the
boats were manned, armed and equipped for distant
service. A landing was made across the bay oppo
site the city, and the brigade was formed into line
under the command of Lieutenant- Commander
Goodrich, Acting - Brigadier, AAdth Lieutenant
Hutchins for Adjutant- General. Headed by the
band of the Lancaster, it was drilled in brigade
movements. The landing Avas repeated several
times Avhile at Port Mahon and on one occasion
passed in revieAV before Admiral Nicholson and

U.S.S. GALENA. 83
Staff. A regatta Avas held and boats from all the
ships entered the lists. A purse for the Avinning
boat of each class Avas offered, the Galena's gig and
whaleboat coming off victorious. Liberty was given
to the ship's company. We found very few places
of interest in Port Mahon and the greatest curio
sity to be seen was the Port Mahon soldiers. It is
customary for people to compare others afflicted
Avith perennial spring fever to the sloth, snail, or
tortoise, for they have never seen a Port Mahon
soldier. If they had, then would the sloth be
endowed with the activity of a Avild-cat, the snail
with the agility of an eel, and the tortoise be a race
horse. He is the very quintessence of the poetry
of repose, of inertia personified. We passed a
guard-room where the sergeant was sleeping, the
corporal sleeping, the sentry asleep on post, and
everything with life, even the flies on the wall Avere
wrapped iii profound slumber, A soldier once took
a Avalk, and upon reaching the cliffs, being too indo
lent to turn, Avalked over ; he Avas so lazy that it
took him exactly fifteen minutes to fall to the bot
tom, a distance of twenty feet. (Prom the city
records, time taken by the chief of police.) The
13th of May the fleet left Port Mahon for the Rock
of Gibraltar. On the morning of the 15th, when
Ave were steaming in line, a marine, suffering from
a temporary aberration of the mind, broke from
his guard on the flagship and jumped overboard.
The life-boat Avas promptly lowered by us, and Ave
succeeded in picking him up and returning him
safely on board ship. We arrived at Gibraltar on
the 16th of May and came to anchor. A national
salute was fired by the Flagship and returned by
the fort. Lieutenant Rittenhouse was detached and
o-iven leave of absence for the purpose of recruiting
his health. On the 19th of May the signal Avas
made to up anchor, and the squadron steamed from

84 CRUISE OF THE
the Rock and a few hours afterwards came to an
chor in the harbor of Tangiers. While passing the
straits an incident occurred whicli occasioned us
the greatest pleasure and astonishment.^ Will
Avonders never cease ? It seemed not, for right be
fore our eyes, off the starboard bow, was seen a real
live three-masted schooner flying the Stars and
Stripes. Such a sight is so seldom seen in foreign
waters that, Avhile it gave us pleasure, it made us
think of those odious navigation laws, wdiich cause
our merchant marine to fall so far astern in the com
petition of nations for the trade of the world. We
took our departure from Tangiers on the 20th of
May and steamed along the coast of Morocco.
The following clay we stood in towards the town of
El-araish, and after leaving that place and passing
the town of Rabat, came to anchor at Dar-el-beida,
about 4.30 p.m. on the 22nd of May. A salute was
fired from the flagship and returned by the fort.
The intervals between the firing of the Moors made
us feel sad and solemn like, so nearly did it resemble
the customary honors paid to dead naval heroes.
Dar-el-Beida was one of the principal resorts of
those fierce bands of pirates who, in the beginning
of the Nineteenth century, were the terror and
dread of commerce until- taught, at the cannon's
mouth, that " Honesty is the best policy," by those
brave old commanders of our Navy in its youth
ful days. We left Dar-el-beida in the evening of
the 23rd, and came to anchor on the following morn
ing in the harbor of Mazaghan. We left there in
the afternoon of the same day and dropped anchor
at Mogador on the 25th. Mogador was the last
place avc visited. All the cities along the coast of
Morocco bear a striking resemblance to each other.
They are built of the same stone, a mixture of
brown and gray upon a low, sandy beach, and sur
rounded by Avails topped with forts, Avhile the long

U.S.S. GALENA. 85
sweeping' billoAvs of the Atlantic break into white
glistening spray upon their ramparts. The squa
dron then separated, and the ships steamed away
in different directionss on different missions.
We arrived at Gibraltar on the 27th of May. Our
cruise along the coast of Morocco then ended, for
which we were sincerely thankful, for the ceaseless
rocking of the ship and the absence of the " staff of
life" formed a disagreeable experience. We had
received orders for our Summer cruise, and were
looking forward in eager expectation, as it embraced
many of the most extraordinary ports in the Medi
terranean. We would have visited Algiers and
Tunis, sailed up the Adriatic to Venice and Trieste,
and finally to Palestine, the land of sacred memory,
and seen Jerusalem, the Mecca of the Christian. We
were wedded to disappointment, as a telegram was
received from the Admiral at Cadiz to proceed forth
with to Alexandria, in Egypt, where the trouble
had commenced which afterwards led to a war be
tween the Egyptians and the English. We could
only utter " It might have been !" as we steamed
from the Rock on the 30th of May. A pleasant
trip of five days brought us to Valetta, Malta, on
the 5th of June. Malta presented a stirring scene,
as vigorous preparations Avere being made for war.
Transports were arriving with troops, and the har
bor was a moving panorama of men-of-war and
regimental boats, containing soldiers exercising the
muscles they were so soon to use in handling the
muskets against the sand-coated denizens pf the
desert. The ship was coaled and at 3.20 in the
afternoon Ave were again underway for Alexandria.
The weather continued propitious and another five
days brouo-ht us to that port, and to anchor within
the inner^harbor. In the harbor we found col
lected the largest number of men-of-war ever
brought together. Fleets belonging to all the

86 CRUISE OF THE
powers of Europe awaited quietly the train of
events, and ready to protect the lives and property*
of the citizens of their respective nations who had
made Alexandria the home of their adoption. The
intensest excitement prevailed among the foreign
element in the city. Bands of armed Arabs walked
the streets, and every one knew, if once these fierce
soldiers tasted the excitement of taking human
life, mercy would take Avings, and nothing but the
stern hand of a stronger power could stern the tide
of their murderous fanaticism. The next morning
after our arrival, June the 11th, was sunny and
pleasant, and everything looked so quiet, calm and
serene, it was impossible to realize that, before the
setting of the sun, the curtain Avould rise upon the
first act of the bloody drama. In the afternoon,
the dread cry of the Arabs smote upon the ears of
the startled citizens, and hundreds of them were
cruelly massacred, even women and children were
cut down without mercy. The houses Avere barri
caded, and many, collected together for mutual pro
tection, occupied and defended themselves in the
Ottoman Bank and other buildings of superior
strength. Anarchy was the ruling spirit, anel such
was the terror of the moment that it even aroused
the indolent Khedive from his lethargy. The troops
who were still loyal were ordered out and succeeded
in quelling the riot and restoring order for the time.
Several of our officers were ashore at the com
mencement of the riot, and fortunately succeeded
in obtaining a guard, Avho conducted them to a place
of safety. The authorities Avere very courteous and
made every effort for their security and safe return
to the ship. The English officers were not so suc
cessful, and several died from injuries received.
Wewill not vouch for the authenticity of the fol
lowing : namely, that one of our gentlemen ashore
adopted as a means of refuge the National costume

U.S.S. GALENA. 87
of the Egyptians. This Avas a rig— by no means
calculated to enhance the symmetry of the human
form divine, but " any port in a storm"; besides,
it was not a time to be fastidious Avith the savage
Arab, flaming " excaliber " in hand flashing in
the sunlight, and thirsting for buckets of human
gore. The morning after the riot, refugees com
posed of all nationalities flocked on board the
steamers in the harbor willing to leave the city at
any cost. Of course, thousands avIio could not
obtain passage were left behind and croAvded for
safety on board the men-of-war. Missionaries,
Greeks, Italians, French, Germans and Americans
came on board the Galena in such numbers it was
impossible to accommodate them all, so an Italian
barkantine Avas hired for that purpose. Their meals
were cooked on the Galena and sent to them. Cap
tain Batcheller gave up his cabin and our officers
and men cheerfully gave up their beds and bed
ding, and endeavored in every possible Avay to make
them as comfortable as the difficulties of the situa
tion would permit. Many of the poor people had
left behind them in tlieir flight all tlieir earthly
possessions ; except the long-headed children of
Israel, Avho, rather than leave their rare, pure gold
in the hands of the Philistines, would have man
fully perished beneath the Aveight of it. The office
of the Navigator was temporarily turned into a trea
sury, where millions Avorth of gold, jewels and pre- ,
cious stones were deposited and placed undercharge
of a sentinel. For several Aveeks a calm succeeded
the storm. Our ship continued to be an asylum of
refuse, and refugees continued to come and go.
The'Englisli, French and other fleets, with the pa
tience of discipline, quietly awaited the decision of
the conference which had assembled, upon the
request of the Sultan, at the " Sublime Porte," to
discuss the grave issues at stake. Our ship's com-

88 CRUISE OF THE
pany spent their hours of leisure in pleasant argu
ment and in wratching, with interest, the unravel
ling of the tangled skein of events. We were
greatly amused Avith the visit to the ship of an
Egyptian Wizard, a descendant perhaps of Ihose
ancient magicians Avho have cast a shadow of mys
tery and romance upon the pages of Egyptian
history. After a circle was formed, the disciple
of the "black art" began to display his skill in
legerdemain. Some of his tricks were Avonders in
sleight of hand, and others as clear as crystal. One
of them, his masterpiece, completely stripped the
bush of rays, for, with the aid of his Satanic Ma
jesty and a small rabbit, he taught us a new dis
covery not mentioned in Natural history, to wit,
that rabbits lay eggs. Our flagship which had been
expected some time arrived on the 27th of June.
Rumours had been passing through the ship to the
effect that the Secretary of the Navy had issued
an order for the Galena to be sent to the South
Atlantic station. We did not believe them, for
what had the Galena clone to be so punished ? Had
she not been always continually on the move since
commissioned ? Look at the hard work she had
accomplished, and say, in the name of justice and
fair play, if it be true. So Ave argued and reasoned,
but argument will not move a mountain, neither
could, reason keep the Galena in Europe, for the
Admiral sent us the order and the command to pre
pare for sea. The gratitude of republics ; Avhat a
subject for a satire! The U.S.S. Quinnebang
came into the harbor on the 1st of July. On the
4th of July all the ships in the harbor were dressed
in our honor. At noon a salute was fired from all
the ships carrying a flag officer, and it sounded as
if the long-expected bombardment had commenced
"Coming events cast their shadows before" and
affairs were evidently approaching a crisis ; and we

U.S.S. GALENA. 89
expected at any moment to receive the order io
leave the harbor. Arabi Pasha continued to
strengthen the forts and batteries lining the shore.
He was repeatedly warned by Admiral Seymour to
suspend work, which he promised to do, but did
not, continually working under the cover of night.
That fact was discovered with the aid of powerful
electric lights thrown from the English ships upon
the fortifications, bringing them out with the dis
tinctness of clay, and showing the workmen, some
with their picks suspended in AAronder at the new
sun that had arisen upon them. That method of
discovering the designs of an enemy will, no doubt,
hold an important position in modern warfare. On
the 10th of July Admiral Seymour, considering it
unnecessary, and injurious to English interests, to
further delay active operations, gave the final
warning, that, if thej^ did not desist within a period
of twenty-four hours, he Avould bombard the forts
and city. An officer was despatched to all the
men-of-war and other ships occupying a neutral
position, to notify them to leave the harbor.
Slowly and majestically the immense fleet got
underway, steamed out and anchored in rear of the
English line of battle. We were surprised to see
the French fleet among the neutrals, as they were
considered to have as much at stake as the English.
The smaller gunboats were used in the capacity of
tugs, and towed the sailing vessels to a safe anchor
age. By 5 p.m. the harbor was cleared Avith the
exception of a large and very handsome yacht,
belonging to the Khedive, and an Egyptian man-of-
Avar. The English line was now completed and the
heavy ironclads Avere placed so as to command the
whole extent of forts and batteries. The names of
the heavy ironclads were as follows : Monarch, Te-
meraire, Superb, Alexandra, Inflexible, Sultan and
Penelope. By night they had been cleared for

90 CRUISE OF THE
action. Onthe morning of July 11th, the sun rose
upon a bright, beautiful day, and a cool breeze
made it pleasant, at least for the non-combatants,
who, with awnings spread, looked early and eagerly
for the first active sign that would open the engage
ment. On board the Galena a look of suppressed
excitement could be seen upon the faces of all, and
breakfast was almost neglected except by those old
salts wdio had already heard the roaring of guns,
the bursting of shells, and the sound of human
woe. As the hands of the clock pointed to the hour
of seven, and the Avord was passed, " those who de
sired could lay up in the rigging," a flame and
volume of smoke was seen to issue from the Alex
andra. It Avas a blank discharge, and the challenge
was promptly accepted by a return of shell from the
shore. The engagement soon become general and
the firing was incessant. Huge volumes of smoke
hovered over the scene, and the hoarse Aroice of
guns, the bursting of shells over the forts and city
made it a grand spoctacle of the pomp and circum
stance of war. Several of the ironclads carried
eighty-ton guns, throwing a shell Aveighing over
seventeen hundred pounds, and it is not hard to
imagine the terribly destructive effect of such pro
jectiles, nothing constructed by human hands could
Avithstand them. All the ships fought at anchor
except the Monarch, Avhich engaged under steam,
constantly shifting her position and pouring a
deadly fire at point blank range into the fortifica
tions. She was beautifully handled, and her effec
tive fire was admired by all observers. A AArell-aimecl
shot from her penetrated the magazine of one of the
forts and ignited the powder, and a broad bright
sheet of fire Avent high in the air, carrying Avith it
guns and gunners, and completely destroying the
fort. The favorite of all of us Avas the little °Con-
dor, a small gunboat, which, single-handed, had the

U.S.S. GALENA. 91
audacity to engage one of the strongest forts. Her
movements were so rapid, it was impossible for the
Egyptians to aim their guns with accuracy, and
shells burst around her, any single one being
sufficient to severely injure, if not sink her. Ad
miral Seymour, who had moved his flag to the
Helicon (a small gunboat), seeing the little vessel
apparently so unequally engaged, signalled two
other gunboats to go to her assistance. It proved
unnecessary, for before her support reached her the
fort was silenced. The Egyptians fought under
great disadvantages, for their forts were not suffi
ciently strong to stand the fearful fire of their
enemy. Their guns were mostly small and of short
range, their gunners inexperienced, and the shot
ricocheted upon the waters and sank before reaching
the mark. It Avas impossible not to sympathize
Avith the Egyptians, for Avhile the bombardment was
merely a target-practice ¦ and scientific experiment
for the English, it Avas death to them. Although it
may li ive been a necessity, it did look cowardly
to see the immense strength of the English fleet
directed against such a puny adversary.

92 CRUISE OF THE

CHAPTER VIII.
The 11th of July, the day of the bombardment,
had been appointed as the time for us to commence
the long voyage to the South Atlantic, and a signal
Avas made to get undenvay. So, regretfully, we left
our lofty perch of observation, manned the SAvif ter,
catheaded and fished the anchor, and at 12.30 the
Galena steamed away from the scene of the greatest
bombardment of modern times. It Was looked
upon with great interest by all the naval powers
present, for the important questions of the practi
cability, usefulness, and the advantages of large
heavy ironclads would be finally decided. For an
hour after leaving, the smoke and heavy booming
of the guns could be seen and heard, until the new
horizon rose above the conflict, and fainter and
fainter, like the roll of distant thunder, grew the din
of combat. After six pleasant, happy days and
starlight nights, we came to anchor at Valetta,
Malta, on the 17th of July. The ship was coaled
and provisioned, and on the 19th we left Valetta for
the Rock of Gibraltar. During that pleasant and
uneventful trip the ship did the "barrel act." A
barrel is thrown into the ring, "hika, hika, hoopla,"
and away she goes around the circle, kicking the
saAvdust (metaphorically speaking) high in the air.
The objects, as explained by our navigators fonvard
of the mainmast, are to see how near she can come
to it without hitting it, and also to find the diameter
of the barrel. The Galena Avent around quite mer
rily, for a well-trained animal is she. In the after
noon of the 25th of July we came to anchor in the
harbor of Gibraltar. Liberty was given, and we were
glad to get once more on terra-firma, as some time

U.S.S. GALENA. 93
had intervened since we had experienced that plea
sure. A thoroughly enjoyable visit followed, and
Ave made many friends, who expressed themselves
as being "Bloody bleedin' sorry you bloomin' fellahs
are so soon to leave the flamin' rock." We uoav
began to take in stores for our long voyage, and
every conceivable place was utilised, even our Sara
togas and travelling valises Avere packed and jammed.
Before leaving the Rock w.e had to transfer Chas. J.
Hicks, coxswain of the the third cutter, to the hos
pital. We all regretted leaving him, as he was
popular, and deservedly so. Lieutenant Ritten-
house returned from leave, greatly improved in
health. On the 31st of July, 1882, Ave got up anchor and
steamed from the Rock of Gibraltar, bound for Rio
de Janeiro, in Brazil. As we steamed from the
Mediterranean into the straits, our thoughts in re
trospection travelled backward through the two
pleasant years spent upon its bright waters. We
thought of the many lands we -had visited, of the
strange scenes and pleasant hours spent in wander
ing, with congenial shipmates, among the treasures
of the old time-honored cities that sit like queens
upon the water's edge. Many, no doubt, had before
them in imagination beautiful dark eyes, filled with
melancholy, looking at that photograph he gave her
or the little zodiac ring with every sign changed
into the hieroglyphics of love's young dream.
Those pleasant visions, alas ! belong to the past, so
we stowed them away in memory's storehouse,
and manfully grappled with the present and its
realities, and, with the buoyant hope characteristic
of sailors, looked the future boldly in the face, and,
in the favorite expression of the good Mahommedan,
we cried " Kismet " ; so let it be. At 9.45 p.m.
on the day of our departure Ave steamed out of
the straits and entered the Atlantic. A fine stiff

94 CRUISE OF THE
breeze awaited us, and the fires were then hauled,
propeller disconnected and sail made to royals_ with
topmast and lower studding-sails. We continued
under sail until the 5th of August, Avhen, upon
approaching the Madeira islands, the sails were
furled, fires started and the ship prepared for en
tering port. We came to anchor in the harbor of
Funchal early in the afternoon. The weather at
Madeira Avas Avarrn and slightly oppressive, and we
longed to go ashore and rest under the shade of the
trees Avhich canopied the streets in graceful arches
of green, interlacing and entwining their branches
overhead, in unity united against the fierce rays of
old " Sol." The town is not at all interesting in
appearance but the surrounding country is superb
in its natural beauty. It abounds in luxuriant
A*"egetation and the mountains are emeralds with
deep sequestered valleys lying between them in the
purple shadows. We were not allowed to go ashore,
and our visit Avas limited. The day after our
arrival was Sunday, and divine service Avas held on
board by a stray English Missionary. As soon as
church was unrigged, the command was given to
" bring-to on the port-chain," and, as the reverend
gentleman's text . was, " Remember the Sabbath
day to keep it holy," the force of his discourse Avas
indelibly impressed upon us. At 5.50 in the after
noon of the 6th we weighed anchor and stood out
of the harbor of Funchal, and, a feAv hours after
leaving, steamed into a favorable wind, hauled fires
and made sail. On the folloAAung day we unbent
both, bower chains secured the anchors and pre
pared the ship for a long sea-voyage. Our boys
then began to break out their sea-stores and eat in
the spirit of the lone Indian, who lets the morroAV
take care of itself. Taking for their motto, ' suffi
cient for the day is the jam thereof," they reminded
us of the greedy little boy Avho eats his lunch on the

U.S.S. GALENA. 95
way to school and at recess goes on the bum. The
wind then continued to remain fine, but inconstant
in force, sometimes almost dying aAvay to a calm
and then gradually increasing to a stiff breeze ; but
Ave continued to gather in the knots on the proper
course. Our time was spent in handling studding-
sails, or, below, in rosy slumber or playing with our
pets. It is but right and proper to mention them,
as many a tedious hour Avas made lighter by their
tricks and peculiarities. We here beg his dogship's
pardon for not mentioning, before, that, when at
Alexandria, one of the refugees was a fine, large
Egyptian clog, called Arabi, after his illustrious
countryman. He is an intelligent, sagacious ani
mal, of aristocratic tendencies, and is thoroughly
aware on which side of the mainmast his bread is
buttered. While at Madeira a great many of our pets
were purchased. They are composed of parrots who
are learning English at the galley, seA'eral hand
some pigeons, and, lastly, the pride of the crew, little
Jennie, the brightest and most mischievous "miss
ing link " that ever formed a portion in the chain
of life. We had always been longing for a monkey,
but, theretofore, Ave were not allowed to satisfy the
longing, for they could not reef a topsail or take a
trick at the wheel. At Madeira, hoAvever, we were
favored, and Jennie came on board to help us laugh
and consequently grow fat. When she arrived,
like a young maiden who for the first time treads
the social carpet, she was timid and shy, but very
soon recovered her spirits, and notliing was too
sacred for her hands. A little different from the
above-mentioned maiden, she did not steal hearts,
for Jennie is no visionist but a materialist of the
most matter-of-fact-kind and steals everything else.
Possessing an appetite in direct proportion to the
size af an elephant she never refuses to indulge,
which so excited the astonishment of one of our

96 CRUISE OF THE
officers as to cause him to give a clincher in " ma
teria medica:" does a monkey ever have dyspepsia ?
We have no room to enumerate the many antics
and humorous escapades of our favorite, and will
only say she has neither respect nor reverence for
rank or position, but calmly paints her cheeks with
the navigator's ink or picks her teeth Avith the
favorite pen of the Captain.
We sailed along pleasantly until August 20th,
Avith nothing of special moment happening, and
with the usual routine of the ship to occupy our
attention. We were then within 11 ° of the
Equator, and the sky became overcast, a drizzling
rain fell down upon us, and the favorable wind
gradually died away. The fires were then lighted
under the boilers and the Galena soon commenced
to make headway under steam. The next day we
encountered a heavy squall from the S.W. The
engines were stopped, fires Avere banked, and we
ran under single reefed fore and main topsails, fore
sail and fore and aft sail. We Avere then fairly in
the "Doldrums," the dreamiest region on the globe.
There, everything seemed to go by contraries, for
the winds were contrary, the waA^es contrary, the
intense heat contrary, and far beyond these Avas
contrary human nature. Everybody growled at
everybody else, and the sweetest and blandest
nature became as sour as crab apples, and human
ity walked around and looked as if eternally mut
tering peas and persimmons. If a young man
wants to find out if his sweetheart has a temper
angelic let him take her to the "Doldrums," and
if she does not get mad enough to throw stones at
her grandmother, then he Avill lose her, for she is
too good for this earth, and will very soon hitch on
the azure wings or climb the golden stair. Some
times the sea would be as smooth as a mirror, and
the sun shine out from the sky of brass with rays

U.S.S. GALENA. 97
as sharp as daggers, and reflecting from the glassy
surface dazzle you with the intense brilliancy of
the combination. Again, the livid, blistered clouds,
which drooped motionless above the horizon, would
suddenly have motion, and from all directions close
in upon you, until breathing became difficult, and
you would experience almost the sensation of being
smothered, and then the weaker air currents, forced
into alliance by the stronger would with combined
force drive the ship before the gale. This condition
of affairs, devoutly not to be wished, continued
until the 23rd of August, when the weather became
clear and pleasant, and a fresh, lively, constant
breeze came to cheer us from the southward. The
engines were stopped, propeller disconnected, fires
hauled, and the ship stood on her course under plain
sail to royals. At 11 o'clock in the forenoon of the
27th of August, as we were about to cross the Line,
his Majesty Neptune came over the bow and walked,
in stately paces, aft to the quarterdeck, followed by
two of his favorite bears and a large detachment of
the Royal Guard. The captain and officers were
drawn up to A\-elcome his Majesty, and as the
venerable ruler of Old Ocean approached, his silver
beard dripping with briny pearls and fashioned with
seaweed, they courteously raised their caps, and the
following dialogue ensued:
Captain. — We greet your Majesty with a cordial
welcome. Neptune. — Thank you, Captain, I visit your
ship, according to the ancient custom of my king
dom, to pilot you safely across my domains. The
flag you fly is not new to me, although in late
years seldom do I see its bright Stars and Stripes
reflected in the blue waters. Methinks, Sir, that
your face is familiar, and those of many of the
officers around you loom up from the past. But—
and the Monarch looked toward the inhabitants of

98 CRUISE OF THE
the steerage— I behold many who are strangers to
my kingdom, who wear too much beard for wrorthy
sons of Neptune, and others too little; shaving, you
know, promotes growth.
Those with beards a paler tint did turn,
Those without a rosy red did bum.
They were quickly assured, however, when the
Captain continued: Your Majesty, I am sure these
gentlemen will willingly pay the usual contribution
for your gentle indulgence, and I hereby turn over
the ship to your control, be pleased to do whatever
your Majesty thinks proper. At these words Nep
tune waved his trident, and, writh the facility of
magic, a sail was turned into a reservoir, and three
gigantic sons of Triton gamboled in its waters
waiting to confer the second degree upon the vic
tims of initiation. A bench, upon which stood two
of his Majesty's tonsorial artists, with wooden razors
of appalling length, which had been sharpened with
a file, was erected near by. The Captain and Nep
tune then took their places on the bridge and the
ceremony commenced. Throughout the entire ship
the royal guardsmen scattered, dragging up the
struggling victims, who, one by one, were thoroughly
soaped — eyes, nose, mouth and ears getting their
portion — and the artist commenced work. After
the shaving, which made them thank Heaven there
were no more Lines to cross, they were dumped into
the sail, Avashed, ducked, two-thirds drowned, and
gasping, spluttering and coughing, were let go to
make room for others. After every one had been
initiated, his Majesty wished us a pleasant voyage,
jumped over the side with his train, the bright
waters closed above him — and we had crossed the
Line. Beyond the line we had fair and fine weather
with occasional wind squalls without rain, until the
30th of August, when the weather became cloudy

U.S.S. GALENA. 99
with heavy squalls of wind and rain. On the 30th,
our flying jib-boom AAras carried away, caused by the
flying. jib martingale parting. The carpenter
remedied the injury by quickly replacing it with a
new one. On the 4th of September the clouds
moved away from above us and a light breeze
sprang up from E.N.E. At 9.30 a.m. advantage
was taken of the favorable condition of the wind,
sky and water, and the creAv were beat to general
quarters, and had target practice with great guns.
In the afternoon small-arms wrere used, a barrel
suspended from the fore yard-arm forming the
target. During the second dog-watch, everybody
thinking the day's exercise had ended, the fore
castle was crowded with smokers and yarn-spin
ners. Suddenly we wrere beat to night quarters,
and it was a perfect surprise fore and aft, and none
of those sly secret preparations which count up so
heavy in the reckoning were made. On the 9th of
September the bower chains were rebent, a sure
sign that our long voyage was fast drawing to a
close. In the afternoon of the day following the
fires were started, propeller coupled, and the ship
went ahead under steam. At 3.30 p.m. on the 11th
of September we sighted land on our starboard
beam, and, soon after, Cape Frio was seen off the
starboard bow. The next day, September 12th,
1882, Ave came to anchor in the harbor of Rio de
Janeiro, Brazil. It was a hazy morning and the
noble magnificent bay looked beautiful, the fine
city on one side, Avith symmetrical peaks sharply
cut like cameos in the back-ground ; Avhile on the
other, in the dim distance, emerald islands held their
heads above the rippleless water, and looked,
through the atmosphere of haze, as if suspended
in air. We were disappointed in not finding the
Brooklyn, our flagship, in the harbor, and found
we would have to continue on to Montevideo, in

100 CRUISE OF THE
Uruguay, where she was lying. As our naval store
house was situated at Rio, we commenced to take
in a new stock of stores and to coal ship. On the
19th of September we dressed ship in honor of the
birthday of the grandson of the Emperor of Bra
zil. In the afternoon all stores having been re
ceived we steamed out of the harbor for Montevi
deo. After getting clear of the bay we steamed in
a circle to test turning power, and then banked
fires, disconnected propeller, and made sail to top
gallant sails, and soon after set the royals. On the
18th the wind increased to a gale, but toward even
ing moderated. On the 21st of September our
ship's cooper, Thos. Withell, died after a lingering
illness, and the boatswains-mate piped that most
solemn of all sounds, " All hands bury the dead !"
The burial service was then read and the body com
mitted to the deep, Latitude 29° 27 ' South, Lon
gitude 46° 51' West. The wind then began to
increase in force, the weather to become squally
and threatening, and at 3.30 a.m. on the 22nd it
became necessary to furl sail, start fires, and go
ahead under steam. The sea become rougher and
rougher, the wind hauled ahead and, it being use
less to waste coal against such a sea and head wind,
the order was given to haul fires, set single reefed
fore and maintopsails, and lay to. On the follow
ing day, although we experienced occasional heavy
squalls from the southward and eastward, the wind
began to lose its force. At 8.15 a.m. we took a cast
of the deep-sea lead and found rock bottom at
sixty-five fathoms. Soon after, Ave took in and
furled all square sails and started fires, set fore-
and-aft sail, and commenced steaming. In the
evening the wind again became favorable, the fires
were banked, and fore and main topsails set. For
several days the weather continued to fluctuate,
with rain squalls and moderate gales. On the 26th,

U.S.S. GALENA. 101
however, a decided change for the better took place,
the strong wind died aAA^ay and was followed by
light pleasant airs from the southward. At 4 a.m.
a large and very brilliant comet was seen in the
east. On the 28th we entered the mouth of the
Rio de la Plata, and at 1.15 p.m. exchanged numbers
with the U.S.P.S. Brooklyn, and entered the port of
Montevideo, in Uruguay. As Ave passed the flag
ship their band played our National Air in greeting,
and we then came to anchor in tliree and a half
fathoms of water.

102 CRUISE OF THE

CHAPTER IX.
We found the U.S.S. Marion with her homeward-
bound pennant flying, and ready to get underway
for home, as her commission had almost expired.
We immediately transferred a number of our men
whose times had expired, for passage to the United
States. On the 30th of September the Marion got
underway, and all the men-of-war in the harbor
manned the rigging and gave her three cheers,
which she lustily returned. We then commenced
to clean and paint ship, and get her ready for in
spection. In the afternoon of October 5th, Rear-
Admiral Pierce Crosby and Staff visited and in
spected the ship. He expressed himself greatly
pleased with the Galena and the ship's company,
and remarked that "he had no recollection of seeing
a ship pass in so creditable a manner." After
inspection, General Liberty was given to the ship's
company, and we delighted in getting ashore after
our long voyage. We found Montevideo a clean-
looking, well-paved city, with near 150,000 inhabi
tants. Several handsome plazas, with fine buildings,
ornamented the city, and, in the evenings, were full
of promenaders. We had a pleasant liberty, as
horses were plentiful, and our boys enjoyed long
rides in the surrounding country, across the smooth
and level pampas. On the 10th of October the
American Minister to Uruguay came on board, and
was received with the usual honors. On the 17th
of October we unbent all sail, and at 1 p.m. called
all hands to send clown topsail and lower yards, and
house topmasts. The exercise was executed with
nicety and facility. We did not make that "last
cruise," but it was finally settled on the forecastle

U.S.S. GALENA. 103
m the evening that this was the quickest time on
record. The ship then looked as if one of those
"Pamperos" Ave read or hear of, but seldom see,
had struck her. There is something curious in the
fact that, during a stay of over four months, Ave
never experienced one of those Avincls that bloAV off
the Pampas. The ship's romancers, before we
came, had startled us with Avonderful tales of ships
capsizing, of anchors lost, and of ships going ashore,
but we are compelled to credit them wdth a too
vivid imagination, or a digression from the paths of
truth for the sake of the narrative. On the same
day, the U.S.S. Hartford came into the harbor, and
anchored off the port beam of the flagship. On
the next day we sent up topmasts, topsail and lower
yards. The Brooklyn having been ordered to Pa
tagonia, to carry the scientists sent by the United
States to take observations of the Transit of Venus,
Rear- Admiral Crosby transferred his flag to the
Galena on the 19th. The band and some of the
barge's crew were transferred at the same time.
On the 27th, as the scientists had arrived, the
Brooklyn stood out of the harbor for Santa Cruz.
On Friday, November 3rd, we shifted our moorings,
going closer in. On the 9th, a race was rowed
between our barge and the barge of the Hartford,
and resulted in a victory for the latter, spoon-oars
being used by them and the straight blades by our
crew. On the 11th, the Hartford left for Val
paraiso During the absence of the Brooklyn, a
succession of "hops" were given by our officers,
and were largely attended by the ladies of Monte
video Many beautiful "Orientals" were seen
among: the dancers, and their brilliant dark eyes
set many of our gentlemen studying Spanish. On
the 19th the ship was dressed and a salute fired m
honor of 'the birthday of the King of Spain. On the
9nd of December we again dressed ship in honor of

104 CRUISE OF THE
the birthday of the Emperor of Brazil. On the
6th, the Galena's Ministrel Troupe gave an enter
tainment, which proved a great success, and "Birch
and Bacchus Junior " cracked their jokes and sang
their songs to thunders of applause. December the
18th we shifted our moorings, and half-masted our
flag, and at noon fired minute guns for Rear-
Admiral Poor, U.S.N., and in the evening bent
light sails preparatory to going to sea. At 4.40 a.m.
on the 19th, we got underway, stood out of the
harbor, and occupied the early morning in swinging
the ship and taking azimuth observations. At 9.40
a.m. beat to General Quarters, exercised at target
practice with great guns and small arms, and at
5.10 p.m. came to anchor in the same place as on
the previous evening. December 22nd, underway
again ; went outside the harbor, took compass
observations, came in and anchored at 9 a.m. In
the afternoon went out, continued observations, and
returned to same anchorage at 7 p.m.
December 23rd Ave again got underway, com
pleted the compass observations, returned and
moored ship in outer harbor. Our " anchor drill "
then ended, and the bandsmen, who were compelled
to play " Marching through Georgia " as the
swifter went round, began to brace up and have
some style about them. During the week these
musical blowers upon instruments of brass became
sallow and sad, and looked as if suffering and wast
ing away, from the effects of an overdose of melan
choly and music. "Call the band" was the first
sound of the ship's bugler in the early morning,
and at the sound, one by one the martyrs of melody
would struggle up and take their places. " What
shall I play, sir ?" " Marching through Georgia,"
and the bandmaster would roll his eyes to heaven,
rend his garments, tear his hair and swear by
" Gott in himmel," if ever he cot dot fellow vat

U.S.S. GALENA. 105
wrote dot march he would paral — and choked with
passionate tears and the rest would be inaudible.
Very soon after coming to anchor the Brooklyn Avas
sighted returning from the trip to Patagonia. She
came and dropped anchor in the outer harbor.
Christmas was spent in a quiet and pleasant man
ner, with the usual amount of good cheer to satisfy
the inner man. The observations concerning the
late transit of Venus not having been finished, the
Brooklyn sailed for a second visit to Santa Cruz on
the 3rd of January, 1883. Rear Admiral Crosby
having been detached and ordered to the Asiatic
Station, on the morning of the 31st of January
his flag was hauled down as he was passing us to
board the steamer Trent, a salute was fired and our
captain's pennant again floated at the main of the
Galena. About dusk in the evening of the 2nd of
February, the Brooklyn was sighted faintly looming
up through the approaching darkness of night, and
night signals were exchanged with her. The day
after her arrival the bandsmen and bargemen re
turned to her, as she continued to be " Flagship."
On the 4th of February the Carnival commenced at
Montevideo. It was not in such a grand scale as
those held in other countries, as the political inse
curity of the ruling goA'ernment and a fear of in
surrections kept the maskers from combining
together, and compelled them to wander through
the streets in small parties. The favorite amuse
ment was squirting scented water from little metal
tubes, and many gentlemen of our acquaintance
were seen to throw aside dignity and ignominiously
fly across the plazas, followed by gay maskers bent
upon annihilating sundry stiff standing collars of
snowy whiteness, or disturbing the immaculate
" Tone," of their promenade rig. On the 15th of
February we got underway and stood out of the
harbor bound for Colonia, about one hundred and

106 CRUISE OF THE
twenty-five miles up the River Plate. While
steaming along, the masts of a wreck were seen
near the suface of the water, and as soon as the
ship could be turned we commenced to search for
it, but not being able to find it Ave gave it up and
continued on. All clay we steamed and at night
came to anchor in the channel in four and a half
fathoms of water. The next morning early we
were again under Avay, engaged the whole day in
turning ship to find zodiacal diameter, and came to
anchor at 5 p.m. February 17th, we gathered in
the few remaining knots, and early in the after-.
noon steamed into the harbor of Colonia. Just as
all hands were called to bring ship to anchor, the
Galena went ashore on the bar. The usual me
thods of getting her afloat were tried, and about
noon of the 18th she was again in deep water.
The cause of the accident was owing to the age and
inaccuracy of the the chart Monthly money and
liberty were given to ship's company. Colonia is the
oldest settlement of the Spaniards on the river and
has a population of about twelve hundred. It
is painfully quiet, as the inhabitants seem to prefer
to remain under cover, and to walk tlirough the
streets reminds one of Goldsmith's " Deserted
Village." The country around Colonia is fine pasturage,
and small game of all kinds could be found in large
quantities. Almost every day hunting parties left
the ship and returned loaded with spoil. Seining
parties on several occasions cast the seine, and
splendid hauls were made, enough fish being caught
to supply the entire ship's company. On the 22nd
of February we dressed ship, it being the anniver
sary of Washington's birthday. On February 24th
we let go starboard anchor and moored ship, so as to
keep her good and fast during the period we would
remain in camp. Everything necessary having been

U.S.S. GALENA. 107
prepared by the 27th, the boats were armed and
equipped for distant service. The battalion, under
the command of Lieut. H. W. Lyon, entered them,
and prepared to land. The blue jackets were dressed
in white, with pants rolled above the knees ; and
the marines, in heavy marching order, with white
pants, also "high water," Avith their shoes worn
around the neck. In single file, with the steam
launch heading and towing the others, they went
until within one hundred yards of the beach, when
the command was given "by the right flank."
The boats then commenced firing, and swiftly sped
toward the beach. At the first fire, the enemy, a
few straggling natives drawn there by curiosity,
suddenly remembered some sin of omission which
required their presence at home, and went up the
cliffs like hunted chamois. The field being clear,
the boats were run ashore, and the battalion jumped
into the water, waded to the beach, and formed in
line. The marines then deployed as skirmishers,
and at the command, up the incline charged the one
hundred, through the thick sand, over gullies, and
across fields of spiteful briars which stuck into our
bare feet, until we envied the poor fellow who, in
the days of the Inquisition, had to walk on red-hot
coals. We all enjoyed that famous charge, of course,
especially the marines, who, with fifty pounds of
knapsack, gun, canteen, haversack, &c, &c. looked
supremely happy. Upon arriving at the place of
encampment the battalion halted, and the strag
glers coming up in due season, the briars were
picked out, and the tents prepared for being pitched.
Four flags marked the boundary of the encamp
ment, and the marines were immediately put on
o-uard for the first day. The tents were eleven in
number, upon " a gentle hill of mild declivity,"
with the guard tent at the bottom, the tent of the
commanding officer at the top and the others along

108 CRUISE OF THE
the right and left boundaries of the camp. Night
was almost upon us before the tents were ready for
use, but, as soon as reported ready, the different
companies took possession and made themselves as
snug and comfortable as the exigencies of the situa
tion would allow. Our boys were tired, but, not-
Avithstanding, the tents at night Avere alive with
merriment. Songs were sung, and side-splitting
and hair-splitting yarns and experiences made the
merry hours fly, or, when the fun reached a focus,
the night hideous with howls. A bugle call — hush!
knock off there ! pipe down ! and the camp, which
one moment before resounded with laughter, be
came, as the last clear note lost itself in the immea
surable distance of night, as still as the regions of
solitude, and gentle slumber closed the eyelids of
the tired campaigners. Toward midnight the wind
began to blow a stiff breeze, and to the southward
black storm-clouds were rising, while forked light
ning darted in zig-zag across the heavens. It looked
as if one of those grand thunderstorms peculiar to
southern climes would soon burst upon us in all its
fury. We Avere agreeably disappointed, for, before
it overshadowed the encampment, the wind hauled
round, the course of the storm was changed, and
only a slight rain fell down upon us. The wind
continued to blow, however, and threatened to de
molish our fragile habitations, but everything was
drawn snug, and the tents swayed but wdthout the
force. Inside all was still, except an occasional
sleepy growl from some fellow who found the hard
ground not as soft as a feather bed, or imagined a
thousand tarantulas Avere crawling over him. At
the sound of reveille the camp awoke, the roll was
called, and the boys then made for the beach, to
wash away the nightly cobwebs from their brains
in the pure, fresh- water surf that broke upon the
long, Avhite sandy beach, in mimic of old ocean.

U.S.S. GALENA. 109
Breakfast was next in order, and we all fell to
wdth an appetite sharpened by the crisp morning
air and the out-door-life and exercise. During
the entire period of camping out everything we ate
seemed to possess a delicious flavor; government
coffee resembled mocha (although in reality as far
apart as is the zenith from the Nadir) ; and pork
was as delicate to the taste as wild-fowl. At 9 a.m.
we had Formal Guard Mount and the marines were
relieved from guard by the infantry company.
After guard mount a short battalion drill took
place. During the intervening hours between bat
talion drill and dress-parade we played base-ball or
wandered around the camp and enjoyed ourselves
as per inclination. Late in the afternoon Ave were
exercised at battalion drill which ended in dress
parade. The day following, the infantry were re
lieved from guard mount by the artillery, thereby
giving all an idea of camp life and camp duty.
The remaining time soon passed aAvay amid the
alternate duties and pleasures, and on the morning
of the 2nd of March we broke up camp and pre
pared to return to the ship. The tents were taken
doAvn, carried to the beach and stowed in the boats,
and the battalion marched aAvay under arms. After
a short skirmish drill with blank cartridges, Ave got
in the boats, the oars were manned and, very soon
after, we stood on the deck of the Galena, having
been absent three clays less one hour. The evening
of the day after Ave came on board, as the top gal
lant studding sail boom was being sent aloft it got
adrift and came clown by the run, striking A. C.
Daniels (landsman) making a severe contusion onthe
head and breaking one of his ribs. We all sympa
thized very much with him and Avere pleased to
find that scientific skill would soon remedy the
injury. During the remainder of our stay at Colo
nia a mania for base-ball prevailed, and several mte-

110 CRUISE OF THE
resting games were played on a level pampa outside
the town. We expected to remain some time longer
at Colonia, but in the afternoon of the 17th of
March a telegram was received recalling us to
Montevideo. About 7 a.m. the day following we
got underway and stood out of the harbor of Colo
nia bound for the Mount. We steamed along all
day until late in the afternoon, when, upon getting
into shoal water, the port anchor was dropped, but
soon after we again got underway, steamed all night
and came to anchor at Montevideo on the morning
of the 19th of March, 1883.

The cruise of the Galena is now fast drawing to a
close. The three years that once looked so far
ahead have almost passed away, and her commission
expires on the 25th of August, 1883. It is im
possible to tell how or in what manner it Avill end,
or what ship will relieve us. It is thought proper
to end this history of the cruise at Montevideo, for
it is obvious that Ave will not arrive at home before
the expiration of the commission, and therefore the
ship's company will be scattered to different ships,
or many be finally discharged upon the expiration
of their term of service. It is self-evident that we
cannot fly, or transmit ourselves by some occult
power over thousands of miles of water ; so let us
await in patience the coming of the ship, satisfied
that in a few brief months we will experience the
full meaning of the tenderest phrase in our language,
" Home, sweet home." The order has been given
for the homeward-bound pennant. It may not be
as large as the fabulous pennant a man of undoubted
veracity tells us of, which was so long that " it
floated over into the city of Philadelphia, and the
ladies tied presents on to it, until the capstan had

U.S.S. GALENA. Ill
to be used in hauling it on board; " but it will be
a glad sight to us when it floats from the main, in
more graceful curves than ever sculptor bestowed
on marble women. On a bright beautiful morn a
man-of-war will be seen standing into the harbor —
she flies the Stars and Stripes. The news, like
wildfire, spreads through the ship, fhe Galena's
relief is coming. Slowly she approaches — the boys
would cheer her but naval etiquette forbids — nearer
and nearer she comes — she enters the harbor — the
chain rushes through the hawse-pipe — she is at
anchor. Another bright beautiful morn, the pen
nant floats proudly at the main. The swifter is
manned by willing hands, propelled by willing
hearts, and around they go with a rush, merrier
than ever elfin sprites danced upon a lily's chalice,
or dryades sported in the greenwood shade. The
anchor is catheaded and fished, " one bell," and the
Galena begins to make headway, homeward bound.
We can almost hear the cheers given and returned,
those heart and soul-stirring cheers that ring out as
if the lungs that sent them forth were of iron. A
fair passage, and on still another bright beautiful
morn the shores of America lie before us. We en
ter a harbor^splash goes the anchor — we are home
at last. At the present time the great question
among the ship's company is, what are you going
to do when you get home ? It is answered in many
different Avays. Some are going to be bankers,
others merchants, but the majority pine for a far
mer's life, and the pleasure of the change from
guiding the tillers of boats, to being tillers of the
soil. Cincinnatus sits upon the spardeck, and in the
midst of the crowded gangway he is alone, for that
dreamy " far-away-moses " expression in his eyes
tells us he is roaming among the ethereal *lelcls ot
imagination. What does Cincinnatus see ? We will
tell you. He sees the ship get home, stripped and

112 CRUISE OF THE
abandoned. His black bag is thrown across his
shoulder, and with his right hand he _ grasps his
monk-bag. A train leaves the great city_ for the
far west, Cincinnatus is a passenger. Away it dashes
across the mountains and valleys of Pennsylvania,
around the smoke-begrimed city of Pittsburg,
through the cornfields of Ohio and over the plains
of Illinois. A tunnel is shot, the train stops, 'tis
the city of St. Louis. Does Cincinnatus stop ? No !
For farther, still farther westward the " Star of
Empire " takes its way, and Cincinnatus follows
the star. This train for Kansas City, Sah ! He
takes the train, the iron horse throbs, the hot steam
pours from its nostrils, and " almost as swift as the
meditation of thought " he is borne along over
miles and miles of country. He reaches Kansas
city, changes cars, and out into the broad undula
ting, prairies, where the Avild west wind plays with
the yellow hair of the dandelion, and the bison and
grizzly bear roam at will. He has reached his des
tination, and under the shade of the tall sycamores,
beside a purling stream, he builds his wigAvam. He
tills the soil, and the crops spring up and prosper,
and there is abundance in the land ; but he is not
happy, for " it is not well for man to live alone,"
Avith only a demijohn for a companion ; so he goes
on the hunt for a mate. He sees a buxom western
maiden " coming through the rye " ; she is fair to
look upon, for her cheeks are like the apples in
June, and her eyes as dark as the dust that pencils
the classic eyebroAvs of a coal-heaver. He proposes
to coalesce, she consents, they coalesce. The years
roll on apace and Cincinnatus has rolled on with
them and prospered, and in the afterglow, Avith his
pipe lighted, and the youngest toAvhead upon his
knee, he tells of the time when, upon the old
" Galena," he was captain of the maintop. A plea
sant thing these mid-day dreams, but does Cincin-

U.S.S. GALENA. 113
natus' dream come true ? We shall see. Roll back
ye mystic veil that hides the future, roll back— we
command thee. The veil rolls back and, upon a
crowded thoroughfare in a great city, a man with a
melancholy smile upon his face stands with a pla
card in his hand, 'tis Cincinnatus. Approaching
the wall of a building he pastes it high upon it.
Let us read the writing on the Avail, let us see why
the people stop and stare, and unsympathetically
smile and pass on. We read :
NOTICE.
One thousand dollars reward for the man who
collared my " boodle." W. D. J.
A tall ship with graceful hull and tapering masts
is seen, and a man is going over the gangway. The
ship is a Guard O., the man is Cincinnatus. The
history of one is the history of all, for events like
planets travel in orbits, and Fate is an adamantine
wall, against Avhich people who are inclined to kick
very often bark their shins.

FINIS

114

List of Officers at commencement of Cruise.

James O'Kane, Commander.

H. H. Bullitt,

C. Midn.

Joshua Bishop, Lt.-Coinmander.

H. B. Nones,

Chief Eng.

H. W. Lyon, Lieutenant.

W. H. Harris,

P. A. Eng.

C B. Gill,

H. Herwig,

Jt

J. P. Moser,

A. W. Stahl,

C. Eng\

D. D. V. Stuart,

A. T. Woods,

¦»>

H. 0. Rittenhouse,

B. R. Russell,

1st Lt. U.S.M.C.

A.M. Knight,

G. S. Beardsley,

Surgeon.

V. S. Nelson, Ensign.

G. 0. Lippinoott

P. A. Surg.

T. S. Rodgers,

E. Putnam,

Paymaster.

H. P. Huse,

H. P. Varrell,

Pay-Clerk.

G. E. Ormsby,

D. Ward,

Boatswain.

W. C P. Muir, C. Midn.

John Gaskins,

Gunner.

P. W. Bowdon,

S. H. Boutwell,

Sailmaker.

P. R. Brainard, „

Henry Rigby,

Carpenter.

W. G. Richardson, „

115

List of Changes in complement of Officers during the Cruise.

NAME

BANK

REMARKS.

James O'Kane
0. A. Batcheller
C. B. Gill
S. F. Clarkeon
T. S. Rodgera
J. H. Colwell
W. C P. Muir
P. W. Bowdon
P. R. Brainard
W. G. Richardson
H. H. Bullitt
L. T. McKee
M. J. Donelly
~D.1i. Printup
J. H. Linnard
G. S. Beardsley
H. 0. Rittenhouse
A. W. Stahl
A. T. Woods
J. M. Whitham
L. Bankson
G. S. Beardsley
S. P. Clarkson
C 0. Allibone
H. 0. Rittenhouse
C 0. Allibone
J. P. Moser
V. S. Nelson
Pierce Crosby
C 0. Allibone
A. Marix
C. S. Ripley
T. Snowden
R. W. Gouldsborough
V. S. Nelson
J. F. Moser
A. M. Knight
C. 0. Allibone
Pierce Crosby
A. Marix
C. S. Ripley
T. S. Snowden
R. W. Gouldsborough
J. H. Linnard
J. H. Colwell
D. L. Printup
M. J. Donelly
L. T. McKee
J. M. Whitham
L. Bankson

Commander Lieut.Ensign
C. Midn.

Surgeon
Lieut. C. Eng.

SurgeonLieut.

Ensign Rear- Admiral
Lieut.
Midshipman Fleet Pay-Clerk
Ensign Lieut.MasterLieut.Rear-Admiral Lieut. Midshipman Pleet'pay-Clerk C.Midn.

C. Eng.

Detached April 28, 1882.
Took Command April 28, 1882
Detached May 15, 1881.
Reported on board May 15, 1881
( Transferred to Lancaster
[ Nov. 28, 1882.
Reported on board Nov. 28, 1882
Detached and ordered home
April 28, 1882.

> Reported on board May 1, 1882
Detached May 3, 1882.
On sick leave May 18, 1882.
Detached July 6, 1882.
| Reported on board July 6, 1882
Reported on board July 1, 1882
Detached July 10, 1882.
Reported on board July 10, 1882
Returned from sick leave Jy 25 "
? Transferred to Brooklyn Oct. G
C 1882.
Hoisted Flag Oct. 19, 1882.
Transferred from Brooklyn on
the personal staff of Rear-
Admiral Pierce Crosby.
Reported on board Dec. 27, 1882
Reported on board Jan. 1, 1883
TransferredtoBrooklynJan.l "
Reported from do. Feb. 1, 18S3
Hauled down Flag Jan 31, 1SS3
Detached with Admiral Jan.31 "
I Transferred to Brooklyn Eeb.
C 2, 18S3.

Detached and ordered home
March 22 for examination.

116

List of Crew.

NAME

BATE

NAME

BATE

Charles Thomas

M.A.

Rich. Johnson

W. 0. s.

M. C. Miskey

Yeoman

Jos. Davis

C. Cook

F. P. Weiler

Apothecary

P. Camilleri

Stg.

s.

W. H. Otho

Pay. Yeo.

Paul Brossy J

W. R. C.

H. D. Monachesi

S. Mast.

Chas. Velia

Stg.

Cook

N. A. S. Ross

S.W. (A.)

M. H. Baker

W.C

>. C.

J ames Caine

B. M.

Wm. Carey

Bayman

Henry Brown

jy

J. Bayer

Seaman

V. J. Lanning

« (A.)

J. Clark

)}

(A.)

J. Neil*

C. Champion
Thomas Hearn
Gr. Mate.
A. W. Dixon
t>
Daniel Burns *
C. Qr. M.
N. Fito
Henry Allen
ff
D. Georgio
J. 0. House
C. Mate
J. P. Grace *
(A.)
J. E.Dever
Armourer
W. H. Hansford
J. Maloney
Ship's Blks.
A. Johansen
M. Mentrinos
S. M. Mate
Thomas Kuhlbach
A. Krieve
C. P. C.
J. P. Lindberg
M. Doran
jf
0. Lundberg
Charles Ahlm
Jr. Mr.
A. Makowski
J. Morgan
J. Nelson
J. Maley
>>
M. Ogela
Chas Glenn
Qr. Gr.
M. Riley
G. Svenson
>)
J. Thorpe
A . Murray
it
W. D. Thompson *
„
(A.)
E. J. Ridge
Cox (A.)
H. Walther
M. Trainor
R. Wilson *
C. J. Hicks *
Jf
J. Ahern
o'.'s.
P. Malm
is
W. H. Allsopp
Jessie Joy
Cox
Jas. Bolen
W. D. Jenkins
C. Top
Victor Bruning
A. Lindguist
„
J. E. Brown
T. Seymour
„
J. Sullivan
E. R. Myers
33
B. C. Fuller
C.P.Kelly
(A.)
C. Predrinkson
N. Sarre
*}
B. Krell
J. Martin t
St
D. H. Hunt
W. P. Cullen
C. A. G.
W. Pyne
J. Sangis
it
Chas. Quimby
C. Paulsen
Painter
W. Von Colin
A. James
Cooper
R. Buggeln
o" s
(A.)
Thomas Withell f
jS
J. L. Bobb
Charles Smith
S. Cook
J. Cleary
R. Martin
C. of H.
C. B. Childs*
J. Field
S. Cook
J. S. Chipman
3
Carl Schmid
Bugler
W. A. Elliott
*
J. Johnson *
,s
H. P. Gehant
J
W. Connor
J. O. D.
W. J. Harmon *
'
W.J.Caldwell
C. O. C.
C. P. Harden
'
W. Slavin
3i
Hardy Hackle
3
Chas. Green
C. Stew.
Geo. B. Hendry
*
Geo. Bartlett
W. R. S.
E. R. Hess *
ti
* Transferred. -|
Dead. J DU
charged. (A.1 Ant
WattM/i
117

List of Crew (continued)

NAME

BATE

NAME

BATE

F. Johnston

0. S. (A.)

J. T. West

Fin.

J. A. Judge

„

P. E. Cross

Eng. Yeo.

W. D. Plumb *

>

J. T. Curran

Blks.

E. E. Sirrine *

y

G. E. Whitehurst

Boiler-Mkr.

CD. Sorenson

1

A. Burke

IstC.F.

J. E. Spross

3

M. Cunningham
„
W. H. Straby
0. S.
S. Johnson
,,
Samuel Nuttall
f)
G. Brown
„
C. R. Tice *
0. S. (A.)
M. M'Laughlin
G.W.Wooley*
M. Newman
,,
A. Whipkey
>t
H. Simpson
„
P. V. Welsh
J. Bishop
2ndC.F.(A.)
J. German *
33
Thos. Casey
2ndC.F.
R. W. Turner
1st. C.B. (A.)
Robt. Collier
„
D. A. Allen
Lands.
J. Clark
>>
John Brown
W. Pagan *
,,
J. P. Burns
W. J. Fisher
33
Wm. Blount
C. Gronon
2ndC.F.(A.)
Thos. Bazant
E. P. Goulding
S3
H. A. Cunningham
,3
D. Kavanah
2ndC.F.
W. H. Casey
J. Thompson
„
J.C.Clancy
W. Westford
Jt
J. H. Carden
y>
D. P. Taylor
„ (A.)
A. M. Cabran
Robert Hunt
Ord. Sergt.
T. W. Condy
Chas. Grey
Sergt.
W. E. D. Enmore
F. W. M'Gruder
Corp.
A. C. Daniels
i3
W. S. Popple
33
J. Fitzgerald
tl
L. Meintzenheimer
Drummer
A. E. Forte
S. D. Griggs
Fifer
A. W. Hall *
C.C. Boyer
Private
P. A. Huff
W. P. Burke
j,
Wm. Harrison *
"t
Thos. Dtfnlap
,,
H. Holenza *
9i
P.T. Dougherty
j.
A. A. Jacobs
Jos. E. Evans
,,
J. Keough
J . D. Hauze *
„
Jas. Kennedy
H. Hitchard
„
J. J. Miller
J. M. Hope
,,
S. L. Minor
Wm. Lally
,.
Thos. F. Nee
P. T. Lothrop
,,
Michael Nevin
L. D. Melton
.,
Thos. 0 'Callahan
J. J. Mohler
,,
John Parker f
A. M'Clain *
•¦
J. F. Reed
D. R. M'Gregor
3,
T. H. Richardson
G. W. Narrington
3,
E. Small
W. H. Oliphant
,,
D. Sullivan
\\
H. C. O'Donnell
„
J. Saragoza
t,
J. Raynor *
3'
Johan Sommer
ti
J. Reilly
>'
C. Schroder
3f
Robert Savage
• •
W. Turner
Thos. Templeton
S. Toodajair
t3
C. S. Swain
J. Tomlinson *
J. W. Vanzant
t)
Geo. H. Wells
St
1
* Transferred.
\ Dead. J D
scharged.. (A) Ap
prentice.
118
List of Ports visited by U.S.S. Galena (3rd rate) from date of
Commission. Aug. 26, 7880, to March 37, 7883.

No

Ports

Country

Date
of Arrival

Distance by Log

Departure

1880

1880
1
Norfolk
Virginia
Nov. 13
2
Baltimore
Maryland
Nov. 14
147.3
„ 26
3
Norfolk
Virginia
„ 28
1881
150.4
Dec. 19
1881
4
Gibraltar
Spain
Jan.* 12
3470.0
Jan. 16
5
Villefranche
France
„ 20
769.0
Feb. 8
6
Naples
Italy
Feb. 10
433.0
3, 17
7
Island of Milo
Greek Archipelago
„ 21
666.9
„ 24
8
Syra
33 33
„ 24
50.5
„ 26
9
Smyrna
Turkey in Asia
» 27
145.4
Mar. 12
10
Constantinople
„ Europe
Mar. 14
302.7
Apr. 5
11
Kastro
Isle of Chios
Apr. 7
243.2
„ 15
12
Smyrna
Turkey in Asia
„ 15
55.3
„ 23
13
Salonica
Europe
„ 24
257.5
„ 27
14
Volo
33 >i
„ 28
144.9
„ 29
15
Piraeus
Greece
„ 30
209.7
May 7
16
Castellamare
Italy
May 11
691.8
„ 12
17
Bastia
Isle of Corsica
„ 13
258.2
„ 14
18
Villefranche
Prance
„ 15
152.8
„ 28
19
Cadiz
Spain
June 3
972.9
June 13
20
Lisbon
Portugal
„ 15
297.5
„ 20
21
Vigo
Spain
„ 21
2.35.0
„ 25
22
Santander
„
„ 27
359.0
July 2
23
Paulliac
France
July 3
199.0
4
24
Bordeaux
„
4
29.0
„ 15
25
Tangiers
Morocco
„ 21
951.0
„ 21
26
Gibraltar
Spain
„ 24
35.5
„ 30
27
Malaga
rr
„ 30
60.0
Aug. 2
4
28
Almeria
Aug. 3
81.5
29
Alicante
„
6
219.8
8
10
Valencia
„
9
103.9
„ H
Jl
Tarragona
„
„ 13
108.3
„ 17
12
Barcelona
,,
„ 17
61.0
„ 22
53
Villefranche
France
„ 23
274.9
Sep. 3
54
Leghorn
Italy
Sep. 4
135.0
Oct. 4
S5
Messina
Sicily
Oct. 7
431.0
„ 7
S617
Smyrna
Salonica
Turkey in Asia
„ Europe
„ 12
„ 15
671.5
240.0
„ 13
„ 18
is
Volo
Greece
„ 19
125.5
„ 22
19
Smyrna
Turkey in Asia
„ 23
219.7
„ 31
to1112
Palermo
Villefranche Gibraltar
Sicily
Prance
Spain
Nov. 5
„ 13
Dec. 12
766.0
433.0 790.0
Nov. 11
Dec. 8
„ 15
•3
Tangiers
Morocco
15
35.0
16
U
Las Palmas
Grand Canary Isle
„ 20
710.2
33 xyj
3, 24
119

List of Ports visited (continued)

No.

Ports

Country

Date
of Arrival

Distance by Log

Departure

1882

1882
45
Free Town
Sierra Leone
Jan. 3
1443.0
Jan. 4
46
Monrovia
Liberia
c
246.0
„ 7
47
Harper Anchorage
Cape Palmas
8
229.5
9
48
Monrovia
Liberia
„ 10
229.5
„ 10
49
Porto Praya
Isle of St. Jago
., 16
1100.0
„ 18
50
Porto Grande
„ ,, St. Vincent
„ 19
182.6
„ 20
51
Comfital Bay
Grand Canary Isle
„ 25
933.7
„ 26
52
Santa Cruz
Isle of Teneriffe
„ 26
77.7
26
53
Funchal
Madeira
„ 29
244.5
Feb. 1
54
Tangiers
Morocco
Feb. 4
590.0
6
55
Gibraltar
Spain
6
35.0
7
56
Villefranche
Prance
11
776.0
Mar. 13
57
Palermo
Sicily
Mar. 16
600.0
„ 30
58
Valetta
Isle of Malta
Apr. 1
380.6
Apr. 5
59
Leghorn
Italy
8
600.4
„ 27
60
Villefranche
Prance
,. 28
170.6
May 4
61
Port Mahon
Isle of Minorca
May 6
260.8
„ 13
62
Gibraltar
Spain
„ 16
502.7
„ 19
63
Tangiers
Morocco
„ 19
35.0
„ 20
64
El-Airist
f)
,3 21
80.0
» 22
65
Rabat
)s
., 22
36.0
„ 22
66
Dar-el-Beida
>3
.', 23
38.0
., 23
67
Mazaghan
„ 21
50.0
„ 24
6S
Mogador
3,
„ 25
56.0
3, 25
69
Gibraltar
Spain
„ 27
360.4
„ 30
70
Valetta
Malta
June 5
960.0
June 5
71
Alexandria
Egypt
„ 10
950.4
July 11
72
Valetta
Malta
July 17
950.4
„ 19
73
Gibraltar
Spain
„ 25
950.4
„ 31
71
Funchal
Madeira
Aug. 5
650.8
Aug. 6
75
Rio de Janeiro
Brazil
Sep. 12
4091.0
Sep. 16
1883
76
Montevideo
Uruguay
„ 28
1883
1209.7
Feb. 15
77
Colonia
Feb. 17
125.0
Mar. 1
78
Montevideo
>•
Mar. 19
125.0
Number of Knots during the Cruise, 3 59 J 1.1
120
General Description of Vessel.
Length over all, 219.16 feet.
Length between perpendiculars, 216 feet.
Breadth of Beam— Moulded, 36.08 feet; Extreme, 37 feet.
Depth of Hold, 18.25 feet.
Depth of Keel— Forward, 1.66 feet ; Aft, stern-post, 2.66 feet.
Displacement, 1899 t"d"jj tons.
Tonnage, 910 tons.
Draught of Water ready for Sea — Forward, 14.8 feet ; Aft, 17.11 feet.
Height of Ports— Forward, 11.25 feet; Midships, 8.70 feet; Aft, 7.80 feet.
Ports in Width, 3.67 feet; Depth, 3.17 feet.

Description of Engines, &c.
Kind of engine, compound.
Horse-power and boilers, 825.
Number of boilers, ten (10).
Number of furnaces, twenty (20) .
Capacity of coal bunkers, 5218 cubic feet.
Coal consumed full speed, per day, 28 tons.
Coal consumed three-quarters speed, per day, 18 tons.
Consumption of oil, full power, 12 gallons.
Quantity of oil can be stowed in tanks, 679 gallons.
Pitch of screw, 20.93 feet.
Area of screw, 82.44.
Diameter of screw, 15 feet 6 inches.
Number of blades, four.
Greatest speed under steam (8 boilers), 10.98 knots.
Greatest speed under steam (three-fifth power), 10.04.
Revolutions of screw from date of commission, August 26th, 1880, to
March 31st, 1883, 8,455,079.

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBR

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