¦<. N>-

^ 1. V J-

¦e ^'A,-,,,

YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

,' Kj^.

^-<-c^r''^y^*t

" OVER THE RANGE."

OVER THE RANGE

TO

THE GOLDEN GATE.

A COMPLETE TOURIST'S GUIDE

COLORADO, NEW MEXICO, UTAH, NEVADA, CALIFORNIA
OREGON, PUGET SOUND AND THE
GREAT NORTH-WEST.

By STANLEY WOOD.

Revised and Corrected to Date, 1896.

CHICAGO:
R. R. DONNELLEY & SONS CO., PUBLISHERS.
1896.

COPYRIGHT,
BV a. K. HOOPER.
1894.

"S 9 L'

R. R. Donnelley & Sons Co.. The Lakeside Press, Chicago.

PREFACE.

jT is no light undertaking to prepare a guide-book which shall
adequately describe the places of interest on the great trunk
lines between Denver on the hither side of the Rocky Moun
tains, San Diego at the southern extremity of California, and
Portland, Seattle and Tacoma, the three commercial entre
pots of the Great Northwest. Yet such is the undertaking purposed. In
a work of this character fact must ever stand paramount to fancy, and
lucidity of expression take the precedence. No attempt will be made at
" fine writing; " every effort will be made to state just such facts as the traveler
would like to know, and to state these facts in clear and explicit language.
The country traversed is most interesting, abounding in scenes of the
greatest variety, from the broad and billowy expanse of the boundles's
prairie to the rugged grandeur of the American Alps, from the picturesque
quaintness of New Mexico and the nomadic wildness of the Indian reser
vations to the polished civilization of metropolitan cities. There is no
journey which can be taken on the continent of North America that pre
sents so much of interest to the tourist, and which can be taken with such a
comparatively moderate outlay of time and money, as the one described
in the following pages. New Mexico, Colorado, Nevada, California,
Oregon, Washington Territory ! What a field for investigation, investment
or pleasure ! These are the lands of gold, of silver, of coal, of agriculture,
of all fruits known tothe temperate and sub-tropical zones. These are the
lands of new endeavors, of fresh impulses, and for these reasons are of
special interest to tourists, business men and seekers after health and
pleasure. Aside from the interesting character of the subject discussed,
there is also a special value in the work now .presented to the reader,
inasmuch as great care has been taken to gather information that shall be
found statistically accurate. In a work of this character it is difficult to
combine accurate information with matters of general interest in such a
way that neither shall have an undue prominence. The writer has
endeavored to attain this desirable medium. One thing is certain, nothing
in this book is venal in its character. The opinions here expressed are
those of the writer ; the descriptions of scenes given here are reproductions
of the feelings inspired by those scenes. There has been no bias in any
direction. On the contrary, every effort has been made to write judicially
and, at the same time, retain the enthusiasm which the traveler naturally
feels in beholding new sights and scenes.
In order that no element of information may be lacking, carefully
prepared tables of statistics have been given a place in this volume, and
the reader is respectfully requested to make use of these tables because
much of value has been condensed into this convenient form.
By the aid of the tables referred to, and by frequent reference to the

PREFACE. 7
three excellent maps herein given, the tourist will be able to gain an
exceptionally clear idea of the journey he is making, and of the character
istics of the country through which he is passing.
¦ As another aid to the traveler abundant illustrations have been
prepared, which will give the purchaser of this book an idea of what he
may expect to see ; and which, after he has beheld these places, will serve
as a reminder of those pleasant scenes which by their assistance can
never fade from his memory.
It has been the endeavor of the writer to meet as nearly as possible
the wants of all classes of travelers. Information of value to the tourist
for pleasure, the health seeker, the sportsman and the man of business,
will be found in the pages of this book. Nothing has been written in the
interests of any clique or class. The truth, and nothing but the truth, has
been told. If there are errors they are such as must necessarily occur
in the compilation of a work covering such a vast extent of territory.
Accuracy has been aimed at, and as a whole, the writer can vouch for the
accuracy of what will be found herein. The book is one written in the
field and not in the study. Facts are not taken at second hand. The
author v.rites of what he saw with his own eyes, and not what he read.
The statistics have been gathered from authentic sources, and have been
condensed into the (nost compact and convenient form. Hoping the book
may prove a useful corapanion to the traveler, it is submitted without
further comment to the public.

FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO DENVER

jHE Missouri River has become to be regarded, in a general
way, as the boundary line between the East and the West,
although, in truth, the terms east and west are extremely
elastic in their application. However, for the purposes of this
book we will consider that all on the sundown side of the
Missouri River is West, and that the traveler has reached one of the three
great entrepots to this vast country and finds himself in Omaha, St. Joseph
or Kansas City. From either of these thriving cities the journey to Denver
can be taken by way of first class transportation lines provided with all the
modern conveniences and luxuries.
From Omaha one has choice of the Burlington Route, the Rock Island
and the Union Pacific, and from Kansas City one can travel by any of the
above lines with an additional choice between the Missouri Pacific, or the At
chison, Topeka & Santa Fe railroads. With Chicago or St. Louis as the initial
point one can go direct by any of the trunk lines to the Missouri River and
continue his journey to Denver over his choice among the routes mentioned
above. The trip across the great plains from the Missouri River to Denver is
full of interest and variety to one who beholds this vast expanse for the first
time. Nothing can give such a vivid impression of the greatness of our coun
try, and the adventurous character of our people, as the sight of these bound
less prairies and the habitations of the hardy pioneers who are rapidly turning
the buffalo sod and exposing the rich black soil to the fertilizing action of
the sun and air, and substituting for nature's scant forage, abundant harvests
of corn and wheat. The railroads, for a distance of three or four hundred
miles to the west of the Missouri River, pass through thriving cities to which
a comparatively thickly settled agricultural country is tributary. Then the
newer territory is reached, the towns are of less frequent occurrence and
smaller in size, the plains appear more nearly in their native state, only
dotted here and there with the claim cabins of the settlers. As the traveler
looks out of the car window across the billowy expanse, he sees herds of
cattle and sheep, grazing on the rich bunches of buffalo grass, and occasion
ally he will catch a glimpse of the flying form of an antelope disappearing
over the brow of a distant rise of land. Not uninteresting are the prairie
dog villages with their preternaturally grave inhabitants sitting on their
haunches like diminutive kangaroos, and the writer has seen a whole car
load of people filled with the most pleasurable excitement over the efforts
of a jack rabbit to outspeed the iron horse. With these and many other
novel and interesting sights the time is whiled away until some traveler,
more experienced, or more sharp of sight, suddenly cries out " The Moun-
9

THE HIGH SCHOOL BUILDING, DENVER.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. ii
tains!" There is a rush to his side of the car and everybody gazes
earnestly, and amidst eager explanations and doubting comments the blue
of the sky is at last disintegrated from the blue of the mountains, and the
most skeptical at length acknowledges that the stain of ultramarine, with
its undulating sweep against the western horizon is really the distance-
enchanted range of the Rocky Mountains. Soon patches of fleecy white
appear, and with a sigh of disappointment the traveler decides that the
;louds are dropping down and will soon shut out the view of those "senti-
lels of enchanted land," but gazing more intently, it dawns upon the mind
at last that those glimmering expanses are not veils of cloud, but are in fact
mountain fields of everlasting snow ! The Snowy Range has at last declared
itself, and from this moment until the trans-continental journey shall have
been accomplished, the traveler will have the immediate memory or the
intimate presence of the mountains with him continually.
The view of the Rocky Mountains, which the traveler gains on ap
proaching Denver from the east is one of unsurpassed beauty, and that this
statement may not rest on the dictum of this book, let us take the testimony
of the greatest traveler, and the most graceful descriptive writer America
has yet produced. Bayard Taylor says: — "I know no external picture of
the Alps that can be placed beside it. If you take away the valley of the
Rhone, and unite the Alps of Savoy with the Bernese Overland, you might
obtain a tolerable idea of this view of the Rocky Mountains. Pike's Peak
would then represent the Jungfrau, a nameless snowy giant in front of you,
Monta Rosa and Long's Peak, Mount Blanc. The altitudes very nearly
correspond, and there is a certain similarity in forms. The average height
of the Rocky Mountains however, surpasses that of the Alps. * * *
From this point there appears to be three tolerably distinct ranges. The
first rises from two to three thousand feet above the level of the plains, is
cloven asunder by the cafions of the streams, streaked with the dark lines of
the pine, which feather its summits and with sunny, steep slopes of pasture.
Some distance behind it appears a second range, of nearly double the
height, more irregular in its masses, and of a dark velvety violet hue. Be
yond, leaning against the sky, are the snowy peaks, all of which are from thir
teen to (nearly) fifteen thousand feet above the sea. These three chains, with
their varying but never discordant undulations, are as inspiring to the im
agination as they are enchanting to the eye. They hint of concealed
grandeurs in all the glens and parks among them, and yet hold you back
with a doubt, whether they can be more beautiful near at hand than when
beheld at this distance."
The doubt so gravely expressed in the last sentence of our quotation,
the traveler, when he shall have taken the trans-continental tour, will be
fully able to resolve for himself. He will have beheld a bewildering variety
of beauty, and in the quiet' evenings at home, he will find material for the
most exquisite enjoyment of pleasing reminiscence and reverie.
With such an approach, Denver must needs be something more than
ordinary not to strike the traveler as a discord in the grand harmony of the
scene It is a fact, and it is a pleasure for the writer to record it, that Den
ver is never a disappointment. What its peculiar charms may be, and how
it appears to the stranger within its gates, will be described m the succeed
ing chapter.

VIEW OF PUBLIC BUILDINGS, DENVER.

OITY HALL. ARAPAHOE COUNTV COURT-HOUBE.

POST-OFFICE AND CUSTOM HOUSE
OAPtTCL BUILDINQ. U. S. BRANCH MINT.

FROM DENVER TO PUEBLO.

DENVER,
Capital ot Colorado.
Population, 150,000.
Elevation, 5,195 feet.

There are only a few citief in the world
that please at first sight. Denver is one of
this favored few. The liking one gets for
Boston, Philadelphia or London is an acquired
taste, but one falls in love at once with Paris,
Denver or San Francisco. It does not follow
that because the cities mentioned are immedi
ately pleasing, they must of necessity resemble
each other, any more than that a peach, an
apple or an orange should have a. similar flavor. We like the fruit and
we like the cities without having to learn to like them, but not for the same
reasons. One feels a sense of exhilaration in the atmosphere of Denver.
The grand view of the Snowy Range of mountains to the north and west
And the broad expanse of horizon-bounded plains to the east and south
exalt the spirits, the bland but bracing breezes cool the fevered pulse and
the abundant oxygen of the air thrills one like a draught of effervescing
champagne. A beautiful city, beautifully situated, is Denver, with broad
tree-shaded streets, along each side of which flow streams of sparkling
water, necessary to the growth of vegetation in a country where the annual
rainfall is less than fifteen inches, with public buildings of massive pro
portions and attractive architecture, with residences erected in accordance
with the canons of good taste, with innumerable lawns of shaven grass,
ornamented with shrubs and flowers, with charming suburbs and an out
lying country, studded with fertile farms and flowering or fruiting orchards,
peace is within her dwellings and plenty within her palaces. Denver has
now nineteen railroads, two extensive street railway systems operating,
one hundred and sixty miles of electric and cable railroads, reaching all
the various portions of the city. Strangers will find that the most conveni
ent and satisfactory manner of viewing the city is from the windows of the
street cars. The town is lighted by gas and electricity, its principal streets
are paved with asphaltum, has- paid fire and police departments, and
obtains its water from mountain sources by means of Holly works, and
from over 300 artesian wells varying in depth from 350 to 1,600 feet. The
public buildings, exclusive of churches and schools, cost $4,771,000. The
real " estate belonging to the city is worth $3,439,207, the bonded debt is
$2,223,000 and the assessed valuation of Denver is $76,856,000. The com
merce of Denver is now annually not less than one hundred and forty
millions of dollars. Denver is situated at the junction of Cherry Creek and
the Platte River, and in addition to being the Capital of the State, is the
county seat of Arapahoe County. All the railroads which enter Denver
land their passengers at the Union Depot, a massive and handsome edifice
cf native stone; originally built in 1880, and destroyed by fire in the Spring
13

DENVER & RIO .GRANDE RAILROAD DEPOT AT MANITOU.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE,

IS

of 1894, now re-erected, more beautiful and complete than before. Opposite
the main entrance of the Union Depot, on Seventeenth Street, and at the
south end of the'building, on Sixteenth Street, cable and electric car lines
diverge to all parts of the city, passing the principal hotels and all points of
interest. On the town-ward side of the Union Depot are the carriage
stands, and if arrangements for transportation have not already been made
on the train, with the carriage company's agent, before reaching the city,
a carriage can be engaged here. Prices are regulated by ordinance and

ARAPAHOE COUNTY COURT HOUSE, DENVER.

extortion prohibited by law. There are many objects of interest to see in
Denver: The smelters, the public buildings, the Tabor Grand Opera House,
the Broadway Theatre, Brown Palace Hotel, — probably the finest in the
United States, — magnificent business blocks, the system of irrigation, the
beautiful private residences, the homes of mining princes and cattle
barons, the lovely suburbs and Fort Logan the United States Military Post.
The hotel accommodations of Denver are probably the most complete of
any city of its population in the country. There are ten first-class hotels
provided with all modern improvements, to say nothing of some sixty odd
less pretentious ones. A day, or better two days, can be profitably spent
in Denver, and then, refreshed and rested from the long ride across the

i6

OVER THE RANGE,

plains from the Missouri River or beyond, the tourist is ready to resume
his trans-continental journey. If he wishes to behold the wonders of
nature and to get a familiar acquaintance with the grandeur of the moun
tains, he will take the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, which by umversal
acclaim has been designated " The Scenic Line of the World."
Seated in a comfortable car, whose large windows give an excellent
outlook on the scenery, the traveler is ready and anxious to be off. The
busy Union Depot may amuse him for a moment, but anticipation of the
wonders in store makes him impatient of delay. Soon the conductor gives
the signal to the engineer, the inevitable late passenger is seen chasing the
rear end of the Pullman out of the depot, and whether he catches it or not,
one thing is assured, the journey to the Pacific Coast has begun, and from
this time on the eye and mind will both find plenty to do in noting and
recording Nature's most marvelous works. The first stop is made at

COLORADO'S STATE CAPITOL BUILDING, DENVER.

Burnham. The station for the suburb of West Denver and the site
of the great shops of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The buildings
of the machine shops cover an area of five acres and were erected at a
cost of $300,000. (Distance from Denver, 2 miles.)
Overland Park is a pleasant suburb to the southwest of Denver,
and is supplied with one of the best race-courses in the west. It is a
fashionable resort and connected with Denver by the suburban train ser
vice of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad.
Petersburg is a small town surrounded by farms, market gardens
and plats laid out as additions to Denver. (Distance from Denver, 8 miles.)
To the west, 2>^ miles distant, lies Fort Logan, the United States Military
Post.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE, 17
Port Logan. A regimental post of United States troops has been
here established, and has become the centre of great interest. The quar
ters are elegant and substantial, consisting of handsome brick edifices.
The parade ground is ample in proportions, and no expense has been
spared to make this Post a model of its kind. The military band gives
frequent concerts, and the citizens of Denver take great interest in and
make frequent excursions to the Post. The Denver & Rio Grande Rail
road has established a very complete suburban train service for the
accommodation of the Post, and the public, which is largely patronized.
Littleton is prettily situated on the east bank of the Platte River, is
the centre of a good agricultural country, and is destined to be the location
of the suburban residences of many of Denver's best citizens. Already an
adequate suburban train service has been inaugurated for the convenience
of persons having country homes at this delightful spot. (Population, 1,200.
Distance from Denver, 10 miles. Elevation, 5,372 feet.)
Wolhurst. F'our miles beyond Littleton, the summer home of United
States Senator Wolcott.
Acequia. A small station for the accommodation of ranchmen.
Here the High Line Canal, one of those great irrigating ditches character
istic of Colorado, crosses the track and takes its winding way to the north
east over the rolling plains, having under its fertilizing power at least a
hundred thousand acres of otherwise arid land. (Population nominal.
Distance from Denver, 17 miles. Elevation 5,530 feet.)
Sedalia. A little village. Home market and post office for cattle
growers and ranchmen. (Population 200. Distance from Denver, 25 miles.
Elevation, 5,835 feet.)
Castle Rock. The town takes its name from a peculiar upthrust
of rock on the summit of a conical hill, resembling, in the distance, an old
martelle tower, and nearer by an irregular pentagonal structure. LTnder
the shadow of this hill and surmounting tower lies the town, which is a
pretty village and the county seat of Douglas County. Fine quarries of red
sandstone are worked here, and pastoral industries contribute to the pros
perity of the town. (Population, 500. Distance from Denver, 33 miles.
Elevation, 6,219 feet.)
Douglas. A station near which are stone quarries and grazing lands.
(Population, nominal. Distance from Denver, 35 miles. Elevation, 6,323 feet.)
Between Douglas and Palmer Lake are the small stations of Glade,
Larkspur and Greeland.
Perry Park is reached by stage from Larkspur station. This park
abounds in curious formations of red sandstone ; is watered by sparkling
brooks and is one of the most popular resorts near Denver.
As the train rolls into the station the
traveler sees to his left a beautiful little lake
cradled in the hills. Along the shore has been
placed a handsome cut stone embankment, and
a neat and tasteful boat house has been erected
and well stocked with boats. The lake is a
natural body of water, though the fact that a
fountain plays in its centre, casting a jet of
water to the height of 80 feet, leads many to

PALMER LAKE.
Healtli and Pleasure
Resort.
Population, 150.
Distance from Denver.
52 miles.
Elevation, 7,237 *eet.
Eating Station.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 19
suppose that it is entirely artificial. Palmer Lake in addition to being a
place of great beauty, is a natural curiosity, poised as it is, exactly on the
summit of the "divide," a spur of the outlying range of the Rockies extend
ing eastward into the great plains and from the crest of this summit the
waters divide flowing northward into the Platte, which empties into the
Missouri, and southward into the Arkansas as it wends its way to the Mis
sissippi. Red roofed picturesque cottages nestle here and there among the
hills, gayly painted boats float gracefully upon the bright blue waters, and
on either hand rugged peaks, pine clad and broken by castellated rocks,
rise into a sky whose cerulean hue is reflected in the placid waters of the
lake. Excellent hotel and livery establishments furnish good accommoda
tions for sojourners.
Glen Park, an assembly ground modeled after the famous Chautau
qua, and destined to become equally as popular in the West as its prototype
in the East, is only half a mile beyond Palmer Lake. Objects of natural
interest are abundant and the walks and drives to Glen D'Eau, Bellview
Point, Ben Lomond, the Arched Rocks and the cafions and glens adjacent
afford material for enjoyment in the seeing and for many pleasant memories.
One hundred and fifty acres are comprised in the town site. The Park is at
the foot of the Rocky Mountain Range, and is sheltered at the rear by a
towering cliff 2,000 feet high, and on the two sides by small spurs of the range.
A noble growth of large pines is scattered over the Park. A skillful landscape
engineer has taken advantage of every natural beauty and studied the best
topographical effect, in laying out the streets, parks, reservoirs, drives, walks,
trails and lookout points. It is a spot that must be seen to be appreciated, and
every visitor, whose opinion has been learned, has come away captivated.
There are building sites for all tastes. Some have a grand lookout, taking in
a sweep of the valley for a distance of 50 miles, with the fountain in Palmer
Lake and the beautiful lake itself in view. Elephant Rock, Table Moun
tain, the town of Monument, the railroad trains from both ways for over an
hour before reaching the station can be seen. Others have pretty vistas,
partly hidden by the pine branches, promises, so to speak of grand views,
but not so ambitious as the first. Still others are sylvan nooks where the
shades are deepest and the murmur of the cool waters of the babbling
brooks makes music forever.
Monument. The five miles ride from Palmer Lake to Monument
is interesting. On the left are giant upthrusts of brilliant red rocks castel-
ated in shape and reaching an altitude of two and three hundred feet. The
town takes its name from the creek which flows near, and the creek is so
designated from the curious monumental forms of rock along its course.
To the right is the Front Range of the Rockies, which the road parallels
from Denver to Pueblo, and near the centre of this stretch of one hundred
and twenty miles, stands Pike's Peak. Agriculture and pastoral industries
are tributary to Monument. (Population, 500. Distance from Denver, 56
miles. Elevadon, 6,974 feet.)
Two miles beyond is Borst, and four miles further Husted, both mere
side tracks for convenient shipping of cattle and produce.
Monument Park is reached by private conveyance from Edgerton
Station— distance from Denver, 67 miles. This valley is quite remarkable
for the very fantastic forms into which the action of air and water through

¦¦^T.-   T^

DENVER &RIO GRANDE RAILROAD DEPOT AT COLORADO SPRINGS AND PIKE'S PEAK.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

21

Colorado Springs.
Residence City and
Healtli Resort.
Population, 15,000.
Distance from Denver,
75 niles.
Elevation, 5,995 feet.

long reaches of time, have worn the sandstone rocks, forming grotesque
groups of figures that very generally keep their broad brimmed sombreros,
formed of iron stained cap-rock. Visitors to Monument Park obtain a fine
view of Pike's Peak and Cheyenne Mountain Range. A hotel in the Park
is open at all times for the accommodation of guests, and can furnish saddle-
horses and carriages on premises. The grotesque group of figures into
which the cream-colored sandstone rocks have been worn, some of them re
sembling human forms have been given quaint, descriptive titles, viz.:
Dutch Wedding, Quaker iSIeeting, Lone Sentinel, Dutch Parliament, Vul
can's Anvil and Workshop, Romeo and Juliet, Necropolis or Silent City,
The Duchess, Mother Judy and Colonnade; all of these and many others too
numerous to mention are within easy walking distance to "The Pines."
The Park is a favorite resort and has comfortable accommodations for
guests. (Population nominal. Distance trom
Denver, 67 miles. Elevation, 6,354 feet.)
Many ot the most influential business men
of Colorado have their residence in Colorado
Springs. No more delightful home city can be
found than this. Mansions and cottages of the
highest architectural beauty abound, and the
society is composed of cultivated and wealthy
people. The town was originally laid out as a health
resort, and while it still maintains its superiority in this respect, has grown
beyond that single characteristic, and is now a thriving commercial place,
in addition to being a favorite residence
city. The town is sheltered on the west
by the range of mountains with Pike's
Peak in the centre, on the east by bluffs,
on the north by the spur of the mountains
called the "Divide," and on the south
west by Cheyenne Mountain. The streets
are unusually wide, one hundred feet,
and the avenues are 160 feet broad.
Trees line both sides of the streets, and
on Nevada avenue, the central street of
the city, there are six rows of trees, two
on each side and two down the centre.
Water for irrigation is brought into the
town by means of a winding canal, and
cold, clear water, for domestic uses, is
conducted from mountain sources in iron
pipes. The pressure is such that no
fire engines are necessary, the water
being forced from hydrants to the tops of
the tallest buildings. Monument Creek
flows west of the town, and the Fontaine
qui Bouille to the south, where the two
streams form a junction. The scenery
around Colorado Springs is of a very in- rainbov/ falls.

PIKE'S PEAK FROM THE GARDEN OF THE GODS.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 23
teresting and attractive character. The hotels of Colorado Springs are
noted for their excellence; special attention being paid to the entertainment
of tourists. There are ample accommodations and of different grades to
suit all tastes and pockets. The Denver & Rio Grande Railroad has a
very handsome stone depot, erected in accordance with good taste and
correct architecture. The plains to the east and the mountains to the west
give unlimited variety. Cheyenne Canon, Austin's Bluffs, Crystal Park,
Cameron's Cone, Monument Park and Manitou, with its environs, are all
within the radius of nine miles.
Cheyenne Mountain. It is impossible to contemplate the grandeur
of Cheyenne's bold outlines and great massi veness, and to become in the least
familiar with its ever-varying play of light and shadow, without acknow
ledging the striking beauty of this noble mountain. From Colorado Springs,
a superb view of its front is seen. Looking at the mountain it will be ob
served that at almost the nearest point, in reality four miles distant, the base
of the mountain is deeply cleft by two yawning chasms, the outer rocks of
which present sharp, jagged points. These clefts are, respectively, the
North and South Cheyenne Canons. They certainly should be visited by
every traveler who has an eye for the beautiful. On the eastern side of
Cheyenne Mountain, .and accessible from South Cheyenne Canon, is the
grave of the well-known auther and poet, "H. H." The direct road from
Manitou takes the tourist a distance of eight miles, turns off to the southward
from the road to Colorado Springs, on the top of the hill half a mile from
the town; they can also be reached by making a detour of one and a half
miles through Colorado Springs, and following the continuation of Nevada
avenue to the southward. Either road is pleasant, and the drive or ride is
one replete with interest, and abounding in attractive scenery. An electric
car line runs to the foot of the mountain from Colorado Springs.
Broadmoor. Nestling under the shadow of Cheyenne Mountain lies
the famous Broadmoor resort. Connected with Colorado Springs and Mani
tou by an electric railway, and therefore easy of access from either of these
places, this beautiful spot, with its fine casino, lake, drives, etc., is one of
the many attractions surrounding the Western Spa.
Colorado City. This town, once the seat of the state capital, is two
miles west of Colorado Springs, on the Manitou branch of the Denver &
Rio Grande Railroad. Located in this thriving little town are extensive
railroad repair shops, glass works, where the bottles for the famous Mani
tou Water are made, and several large manufactories, making it one of the
principal cities of the state. (Population, 1,800. Distance from Denver,
78 miles. Elevation, 6,110 feet.) The one resort of all the West is certainly
Manitou. The attractions of this watering place
have secured for it fame, and fame secures for
it largely increasing patronage each year. No
resort has 'had a more rapid growth than this,
and none has more truly deserved its pros
perity. There are more places of extraordinary
interest to visit in the vicinity of Manitou than
can be found contiguous to any other resort in
the world. It is situated six miles from Colorado

MANITOU.
Watering Place,
nineral Springs and
Health Resort.
Population, 1,800.
Distance from Denver,
81 miles.
Elevation, 6,324 feet.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE,

25

Springs, immediately at
the foot of Pike's Peak.
Here are the famous
effervescent soda and
iron springs which in an
early day gave the name
of "Springs" to the town
of Colorado Springs. A
branch of the Denver
& Rio Grande Railroad
unites the two places,
over which trains run
daily with sufficient fre
quency to accommodate
the most exacting. Then
are a thousand ways in
which to enjoy onese t
in Manitou. A favoriti
pleasure is that of ridinj
The saddle horses an
excellent. Comfortabk
saddles for ladies an 1
well trained horses an
furnished by all the li\
ery stables at reasonabh
prices. A burro (donkej
brigade is a feature fc i
the special benefit of th
children, a careful guidi
taking the little ones fc 1
a ride every mornin;
Carriage riding and e>
cursions on foot an
excellent means of divei
sion. Following is 1
partial list of places of
interest near Manitou
with the distance in miles
from town attached:

THE SEVEN FALLS, CHEYENNE CANON.

Manitou Grand Caverns  2
Cave of the Winds  i
Ute Pass and Rainbow Falls  1%
Red Canon    3
Crystal Park  3
Garden of the Gods  3
Glen Eyrie  5
Summit of Pikes, by rail  9
" " " " trail  13
Seven Lakes, by horse trail  g
" " by carriage road  25
North Cheyenne Canon  8>^
South Cheyenne Cafion  9
Broadmoor Casino by electric railway  7

PIKE'S PEAK.
Colorado's Landmark.
Elevation,
14,147 feet.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE, 27
In addition to these well-known localities there are- scores of canons,
caves, water-falls and charming nooks which the sojourner for health or
pleasure can seek out for himself. The village is thronged with visitors
throughout the summer months ; it is somewhat cooler and less dry than
Colorado Springs in the summer, and warmer in winter. The springs all
contain more or less soda and some iron. They are peculiarly adapted for
the dyspepsia of the consumptive, and the Ute Iron Spring is especially
remarkable for its blood-making qualities. For the pleasure-seeker and
the invalid, Manitou is one of the most satisfactory resorts in the State.
During the season the hotels are filled with guests from all parts of the
Union. Society is represented by many of its best people, the evenings
are made merry with hops and social gatherings, and the days delightful
with drives and rides and walks among the myriad of attractions this place
affords. Before Colorado had acquired a name.
Pike's Peak was the landmark of the Indian,
the trapper and the explorer. In later times it
was the beacon by which the adventurous gold
hunters steered their prairie schooners into the
wonderful and mysterious west ; now it has be
come the goal of those in search of the grand
and beautiful in Nature, the enjoyments of an
attractive summer resort, or the restoration of
impaired health-. The mountain is one of great beauty, and never entirely
discrowned of snow. The Cog Wheel Railroad to the summit of Pike's
Peak is the most novel railway in the world. When it reaches its objective
point above the clouds, at a height of 14,147 feet above sea-level, it renders
almost insignificant, by comparison, the famous cogway up Mt. Washing
ton and the incline railway up the Rhigi in Switzerland. From its station in
Manitou, just above the Iron Springs, to the station on the summit of Pike's
Peak, the Manitou & Pike's Peak Railway is just eight and three-quarter
miles in length. The cost of construction of the road was a half million of
dollars. While it could have been built for many thousands of dollars less
by putting in wooden bridges and trestles, light ties and light rails, those in
charge of the building of the road would not consent to the use of any
flimsy material for the sake of the saving of any sum of money — a substan
tial road that would insure absolute safety being economical, as well as a
guarantee for putting the road from the start on a paying basis. The rail
road closely follows Ruxton Creek, generally at an elevation of two or three
hundred feet above it ; the sides of the Glen are clothed with beautiful
pines and spruces. Some very pretty falls are passed on the way, two of
which are named respectively, the Shelter and the Minnehaha. Stupendous
granite boulders are in places piled up in chaotic confusion over the stream,
frequently hiding it from view. Two prominent ones are plainly visible
from Manitou, and are appropriately named Gog and Magog. One of the
most charming features during the ascent is the opportunity afforded for
exquisite views of the world below, on looking back through the pine trees
with the far-stretching plains glowing in the sun and forming a golden
horizon. It goes without saying that the view from the summit is grand
beyond description. To any one accustomed to mountain climbing no

N THE GARDEN OF THE GODS.

TO THE GOLDE.V GATE, 29
guide is required in making the ascent of Pike's Peak, as the trail is good
and well-defined, and there is a station on the summit, where visitors can
obtain food and shelter.
Fountain. . A pretty little town on the Fontaine qui Bouille Creek,
fourteen miles south of Colorado Springs. The town has taken a new
growth within the past year, and being surrounded by a good grazing and
agricultural country, has a fair prospect of permanent improvement. (Pop
ulation 200. Distance from Denver, 88 miles. Elevation, 5,568 feet.)
There are between Fountain and Pueblo, side-track stations as follows:
Buttes, Wigwam, Pinon, Eden and Dundee. These places are useful to the
railroad and convenient for the residents of the surrounding country, but
they possess little or no interest for the traveler. All the way from Denver
to Pueblo the traveler has the Front Range of mountains on his right, to
the west, while on his left are the great plains. Below Colorado Springs
the country is very fertile, and good crops are grown wherever water for
irrigation can be procured. "The Pittsburgh of the West" is a title
often conferred on Pueblo, and it is the name
which pleases its citizens best, and which comes
the nearest to expressing the salient character
istics of the town. It is a live city, full of enter
prise and push, and it has been favored by
Nature, both in the matter of its immediate
situation and of its surroundings. Plenty of coal
is found not fifty miles away, iron ore is not
more distant, and on the mesa, just south of the
town, is Bessemer, the site of the Colorado Fuel and Iron Works, one of the
largest plants of this character in the world. There are also many great
smelters for the reduction of gold and silver ores, together with a large
number of manufactories, planing mills, flouring mills, machine shops, etc.
The city of Pueblo is surrounded by great stretches of rich agricultural
land, which in places here and there is under a high state of cultivation.
But it is only here and there that cultivation shows its elevating work.
Tourists wonder at this, and cannot divine why, if the land is rich, it should
lie fallow and uncultivated. The answer is easy to find. All this land is
arid. Crops will not grow without water, and the rains of heaven are not
half copious enough to promote the growth of vegetation. Where the land is
watered by irrigation it is as fertile as the valley of the Nile, where it is not
irrigated it is nearly as sterile as the desert of Sahara. This condition of
affairs will not long remain. Storage reservoirs to conserve the winter and
spring rainfall and snow deposits are in contemplation, also a series of great
canals to be taken from the Arkansas river to carry the water on to the
waiting land. In the meantime this uncultivated country, which appears
so barren, supports tens of thousands of sheep and cattle. The short, dry
crisp, curled buffalo grass, which looks about as succulent as shavings,
actually contains great nutritive qualities, and if cattle or sheep can get
enough of it they grow fat and command the highest price in the markets.
Pastoral and agricultural interests contribute to Pueblo's prosperity, five
trunk lines of railroad centre here, and manufactories increase the business
of the town. Many people of great wealth make Pueblo their home and

PUEBLO,
Commercial and
rianufacturing: City.
Population, 35, ooo.
Distance from Denver,
120 miles.
Elevation. 4,667 feet.
Dining Station.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 31
do business here. Handsome mansions, pretty cottages, large business
blocks, and fine stocks of all kinds of merchandise testify to the good taste
and enterprise of Pueblo's citizens. It is admitted on all sides that this
must of necessity become the leading manufacturing town between the
Missouri river and the Pacific coast, and the manufacturers in the East
who contemplate extending or removing their works, are now carefully
studying the resources of Pueblo. Pueblo is well provided with hotels, one
of them representing an expense of §250,000 in its erection. All grades of
excellence car. be found among the hostelries, and the traveler will find no
difficulty fn securing accommodations suited to his tastes. Through Pueblo,
the traveler passes to reach Santa Fe, Espanola, Durango and Silverton on
the south, Cafion City, Salida, Leadville, Glenwood Springs, Aspen, Grand
Junction, Salt Lake City, and Ogden on west cnroute to San Francisco;
and Gunnison, Montrose and Ouray, via the narrow gauge line over Mar
shall Pass.
Parnassus Springs. A pleksant drive of twelve miles, southwest
of Pueblo, takes us to Parnassus Springs, among the foot hills of the Green
horn Mountains. These waters — muriated alkaline — have been tested with
marked benefit, especially in cases characterized as gastric complaints.
Carlile Springs are situated twenty miles above Pueblo, on the
Arkansas river. These purgative alkaline waters are as yet unimproved,
but give good promise of becoming popular on' account of their medicinal
qualities. Clark's Magnetic Mineral Spring. This celebrated spring in
the suburbs of Pueblo, has recently been improved by the erection of a
large bath house, fitted up with all the latest improvements and con
veniences for bathing.

%

PUEBLO TO OGDEN.

ROM Denver to Pueblo, a distance of one hundred and twenty
miles, the traveler has followed the Front Range of the
Rocky Mountains and kept his course mainly to the south.
At Pueblo, however, he turns his face westward, and this will
be his outlook, in the main, until he finds himself standing on
the shore of the Pacific Ocean, watching the descent of the sun into the
wilderness of waters. The country between Pueblo and Florence is fine
agricultural land, being the bottoms of the Arkansas River, up whose
course the railroad follows until Salida is reached, ninety-seven miles from
Pueblo. Back from the river rise high buttes of sandstone worn into fan
tastic shapes by the action of the elements. Banded with a great variety of
colors and dotted here and there by groups of pines, the scene is one of
much interest and adds an element of variety to the journey, which is ex
ceedingly grateful to the traveler. The river bottoms are irrigated by
means of ditches taken from the river, and the result is crops of marvelous
growth and yield. One interesting and peculiar feature is the frequent
occurrence of the ancient Egyptian water wheels suspended in the current
of the Arkansas. This method of securing water for irrigation is rarely ob
served in Colorado. This valley of the Arkansas is also a good fruit
country, and grapes and apples grow in abundance and of fine quality.
Florence. This town is in the centre of the coal oil fields of Colorado.
Glancing from the car window the traveler will here see the tall derricks of
the well machinery and the tanks for storing, together with the tank cars for
transporting the oil. There are between fifty and sixty wells already in
operation and more are being sunk. The oil is used for lubrication and
fuel, and gives the best of satisfacdon. Florence is the junction point
of the Denver & Rio Grande and the Florence & Cripple Creek Rail
roads ; the latter line having been completed and opened for business to
Colorado's famous Gold Camp— Cripple Creek— on July 4th, 1894. This
new railroad has made this bustling little city one of the foremost in the
state. (Population, 2,000. Distance from Denver, 152 miles. Elevation,
5,199 feet.)
The Florence and Cripple Creek Railroad. This railroad,
forty miles in length, has been but recently built for the purpose of open
ing up to commerce the vastly rich gold fields of Cripple Creek and
vicinity. The principal points on the line are Arequa, Anaconda, Victor
and Cripple Creek itself, all of which are heavy shippers of rich gold ores.
The scenery on this line from beginning to end, is of a most beautiful char
acter, canons and gorges, mountain peaks and passes, valleys and vales-
combined in a panorama of startling loveliness.
32

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 33
The town of Cripple Creek has advanced

CRIPPLE CREEK.

Great Gold nining
Town.
Population, 5,000.
Elevation, 9,400 feet.
Distance from Denver, 193
niles.

with the prosperity of the mining district of
which it is the centre. From a camp of a few
wooden shanties and tents, a few years ago, it
has risen to a well-built, well-defined mining
town. Brick buildings are being erected in the
business centre and dwellings of a permanent
character are dotting the slopes around the
town. There is a stability about it which is
most encouraging. The hotel accommodations
are first-class, considering the age of the town. The population is about
5.CXX3. There is an excellent water service, the supply being piped from
the mountains above, and the town is peaceably and well governed. The
advent of the railroads, the great attention being paid to gold mining and
the immense quantities of ore that are being uncovered in the mining
district, all go to show that Cripple Creek is but entering upon an era of
great prosperity.
The Cripple Creek Gold Mining District is situated near
the western base of Pike's Peak at an elevation of 9,400 feet. It consists of
rolling hills, sparsely wooded, and small valleys and gulches. Lying a
little south of west from Colorado Springs at a distance of about twenty
miles in an air line, seventy miles from Denver and forty-four miles from
Pueblo, down to 1891 it was to all intents and purposes exclusively a
pastoral district. It is true that for many years past, in fact ever since
1859, prospectors have, from time to time, been over the ground and brought
back samples which demonstrated the presence of gold. However, no
serious efforts were made toward development, though some exploration
work was done, as for instance in 1874 when a tunnel was driven in Arequa
Creek, and again in 1879 in Poverty Gulch. In these, as in other instances
prospectors were unfortunate and just missed the ore which is now being
profitably mined.
In February, 1891, some Colorado Springs men determined upon a serious
attempt to test the capabilities of the district, taking up several claims
which promised so well that, during the following spring and summer, many
prospectors flocked in and by the close of the year some 2,000 people were
there, really determined to prove its worth. The camp was now well under
way and during 1892 its progress was rapid. Work was mainly confined to
the location and establishment of claims, and testing their value. In the
course of that year some ten or a dozen mines became regular shippers of
ore and their output reached a total of some $600,000.
During 1893 progress has been still more rapid. Numerous new claims
have been located and the number of regular shipping mines has increased
to some seventy or eighty, while many others not actual shippers have pay
ore in sight and the total output has increased to 82,400,000 for the year.
This would seem to be a very creditable showing but a much increased
rate of progress may be hoped for in the immediate future.
Coal Creek Branch. A branch line of the Denver & Rio Grande
Railroad runs from Florence to Coal Creek, a distance of six miles, where
excellent and extensive coal mines are in operation. This line is one of
great commercial importance, opening one of the most extensive coal fields
in the state.

34

OVER THE RANGE

CANON CITY.
Health and Pleasure
Resort.
Business Centre.
Distance from Denver, 160
Miles.
Population, 3,500.
Elevation, 5,243 feet.

Coal Creek is at the terminus of this branch of the line. It is well
supplied with stores and shops of all kinds and does a thriving business.
(Population, 1,500. Distance from Denver, 155 miles. Elevation, 5,360 feet.)
This city is righdy named, for it stands at
the entrance to the greatest canon penetrated
by any railroad. The Grand Canon of the
Arkansas is acknowledged by a universal con
sensus of opinion to be one of the great wonders
of the world. The Arkansas River, which
rises in Fremont Park, one hundred and
seventy miles to the northwest of Canon City,
here breaks its way through the Front Range of
mountains and enters upon its uneventful course to the Mississippi. The
town is one of the oldest in Colorado, and is essentially a place of pleasant
homes. It is the county-seat of Fremont County, and the seat of the
State Penitentiary. Its
warm and equable
climate makes it a
favorite resort for in
valids. In addition to
its pleasant climate it
possesses valuable
mineral springs, both
hot and cold. The
water of the cold
springs is almost icy
in temperature, and
strongly impregnated
with soda. The cold
springs are situated
just above the Peni
tentiary. The scenery
round about Canon
City is exceedingly
attractive. The drive
of about twelve miles
to the brink of the
Royal Gofge and the
view of that wonder
ful chasm from the
top, which can there
be obtained, are ex
periences never to be
forgotten. The town
and its contiguous country possess the finest orchards in the state, and
the cultivation of fruit has become a leading industry. The city is
well built, has handsome business blocks and comfortable and eleeant
residences. The Hot Springs. Having left Canon City and traversed a mile
to the westward the traveler will observe to his left, a picturesque, many

GRAPE CREEK CANON.

ROYAL GORGE.

36 OVER THE RANGE,
gabled building, across the river, a rustic foot bridge leading thereto.
This is the Royal Gorge Hotel situated at the Hot Springs. The hotel has
excellent accommodations for guests and is a favorite resort for health and
pleasure seekers. The springs are recommended by physicians as excel
lent in cases of cutaneous and blood diseases. ProL Loew's analysis of the
waters is as follows : Grains in a Gallon of Water
Temperature of 104 deg. Fah.
Chloride of Sodium  18.2
Sulphate of Soda  79-3
Carbonate of Soda  73.2
Carbonate of Lime    33.5
Carbonate of Magnesia    12.8
Lithia      Trace.

217.0

Baths have been provided at the hotel and are supplied with all the
modern conveniences.
Silver Cliff Branch. This branch, 33 miles in length, which turns
fo the left just as the train enters the Grand Canon, two miles above Canon
City, has its terminus at West Cliff. It passes through most charming'
scenery and enters an exceedingly fertile country, the Wet Mountain Val
ley surrounding the terminal station. Its greatest claim to scenic attrac
tion is the fact that it passes through a canon only less grand than that of
the Arkansas. Grape Creek Canon. Among the many remarkable cafions for
which the State of Colorado is famous, there is probably none which presents
more attractions to the lover of nature, or which combines the sublime with the
beautiful more perfectly, than that of Grape Creek. This beautiful stream
takes its rise among the lofty and almost inaccessible peaks of the Sangre
de Cristo Range, and flowing nearly northward, waters in its course the
beautiful and fertile Wet Mountain Valley ; then passing near the famous
Silver Cliff mining camp it continues its tortuous course in an easterly
direction until it enters the Arkansas River about a mile above Canon City,
just where the river leaves the Grand Canon, after its terrific conflict with
the granite cliffs, and tossing its foam crests high in the air, makes its last
triumphant exit from the mountains. The walls of this canon present a
splendid study for the geologist, as piled up in many places over a thousand
feet in nearly vertical height, they exhibit the various formations of primary
rock in a striking and peculiar manner. The entrance to the canon for over
a mile follows the windings of the clear flowing creek, with gently sloping
hills on either side covered with low spruce and pinon, and with grass plats
and brilliant flowers, in season, far up their slopes, and the Spanish
lance and bush cactus presents their bristling points wherever a little soil
affords them sustenance. To examine this cafion thoroughly a carriage
or saddle-horses should be taken from Canon City, but as the train ascent of
the grades must be made slowly, a very satisfactory view can be gained
from the cars in passing.
West Cliff. This town is beautifully situated in the Wet Mountain

38

OVER THE RANGE,

THE ROYAL GORGE.

Valley, surrounded by a fine grazing and agricultural country. The view
is a grand one, lofty mountains bounding the entire circle of the horizon.
A mile from the station is Silver Cliff, which after the discovery of the
Racine Boy mine, was the centre of a tremendous rush of miners, resulting
in several other great discoveries, but the large mines were few in number
and the prospectors left for other fields. The good mines are. still produc
tive and add their quota to the prosperity of the valley. West Cliff is the
shipping point for Silver Cliff and Rosita, being the railroad station. (Pop
ulation. 8oa. Distance from Denver, 194 miles. Elevation, 7,864 feet.)

TO THE GOLDEN GATE, 39
jusi beyond Canon City the railway enters the Grand Canon of the
Arkansas, the narrowest portion of which is known as the Royal Gorge.
When Irst examined it seemed impossible that a railway could ever be
constructed through this stupendous caiion to Leadville and the west.
There was scarcely room for the river alone.

ROYAL GORGE.
Distance from Denver,
¦63 miles.
Greatest Height of
Walls, 2,627 feet.
Length, 7 miles.

and granite ledges blocked the path with their
mighty bulk. In time, however, these obstruc
tions were blasted away, a road-bed closely
following the contour of the cliffs was made, and
to-day the cafion is a well-used thoroughfare.
But its grandeur still remains. After entering
its depths, the train moves slowly along the
side of the Arkansas, and around projecting
shoulders of dark-hued granite, deeper and
deeper into the heart of the range. The
crested crags grow higher, the river madly foams along its rocky bed, and
anon the way becomes a mere fissure through the heights. Far above the
road the sky forms a deep blue arch of light ; but in the Gorge hang dark
and sombre shades which the sun's rays have never penetrated. The place
is a measureless gulf of air with solid walls on either side. Here the gran
ite cliffs are a thousand feet high, smooth and unbroken by tree or shrub ;
and there a pinnacle soars skyward for thrice that distance. No flowers
grow, and the birds care not to penetrate the solitudes. The river, sombre
and swift, breaks the awful stillness with its roar. Soon the cleft becomes
still more narrow, the treeless cliffs higher, the river closer confined, and
where a long iron bridge hangs suspended from the smooth walls, the
grandest portion of the cafion is reached. Man becomes dwarfed and
dumb in the sublime scene, and Nature exhibits the power she possesses.
The crags menacingly rear their heads above the daring intruders, and the
place is like the entrance to some infernal region. Escaping from the
Gorge, the narrow valley of the upper Arkansas is traversed, with the strik
ing serrated peaks of the Sangre de Cristo close at hand on the west, until
Salida is reached.
There are a number of stations between Canon City and Salida, but
none of them are of special interest to the tourist, except that fishing and
hunting can be found in the immediate vicinity of any of them.
Parkdale. This is the point where tourists who desire only to see
the famous Royal Gorge disembark from the west bound train, to return
again to Pueblo, Colorado Springs or Denver. (Population nominal. Dis
tance from Denver, 172 miles. Elevation, 5,737 feet.)
Beautiful Mountain View. Emerging from the caiion, a most
beaudful mountain view is obtained ; to the left stretch the serrated sum
mits of the Sangre de Cristo Range, while to the front and right are the
towering peaks of the Collegiate Mountains.
Wellsville Hot Springs are on our left across the Arkansas River,
six miles before Salida is reached. Here is a natural warm plunge bath,
the waters of which are strongly impregnated with medicinal qualities.
The Wellsville Springs are a favorite resort, and are made the objective
point for many pleasant excursion parties.

40

OVER THE RANGE.

This prosperous town is situated on the right
bank of the Arkansas River, and is the con
verging point of the four great divisions of the
Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The first
division being the line to the east ; the second is
the main line to the west via Leadville, Glenwood
Springs and Grand Junction ; the third is the
narrow gauge line to Grand Junction over
Marshall Pass and via Gunnison and Mon
trose, and the fourth is the southern extension
to Alamosa, Durango, Silverton and Santa ¥€,
The view of the mountains from Salida is especially grand. The Colleg
iate Range rises to the west with Yale, Harvard and Princeton Peaks
in plain view crowned with perpetual snow, while to the south stands the

SALIDA.
Health and Pleasure
Resort and
Business Centre.
Population, 3,000.
Distance from Denver,
217 miles.
Elevation, 7,049 feet.
Eating Station.

BROWN'S CANON.

Sangre de Cristo Range, and in the south-west tower Ouray and Shaveno.
The beauty of its situation, the near proximity to hot medicinal springs, the
wonderful salubrity of its climate, make Salida an extremely popular health
and pleasure resort. Tributary to the town are mines of copper, silver,
gold, iron and coal, great quantities of charcoal are burned near Salida,
and the agricultural and pastoral interest are of great extent.
The trip from Salida to Grand Junction and Ogden abounds in interest
for the tourist. It leads one through a most varied country, and presents to
the inspection of the traveler almost every variety of industry, from the agri
culture and stock raising of the Arkansas, Eagle and Grand River Valleys
to the gold and silver mining of Leadville and Aspen, and it may be said, in
passing, that Leadville and Aspen are two of the greatest mining camps in
the world and well worthy of a visit. The scenery after Salida is passed
grows in interest with each mile of advance. We are steaming up the left
bank of the Arkansas River, and are crossing the yvestern border of tbe

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 41
Great South Park. The mountains capped with snow shut us in throughout
the whole circle of the horizon. The Collegiate Range, including the peaks
of Yale, Harvard and Princeton to our left, and beyond, the great volcano-
made cones of Ouray and Shaveno, which tower above Marshall Pass.
Away off to the right are the Kenosha Hills. Agriculture and stock raising
are the main industries of South Park, and the ranchmen find these pur
suits of an exceedingly lucrative character. A number of small stations
are passed beyond Salida as follows: Brown's Caiion, Hecla Junction,
Nathrop and Midway.
Brown's Canon. After passing the station of Brown's Caiion, fine
views of the Sangre de Cristo peaks present themselves close by, and then
the rocks are heaped up again into the grand defile of Brown's Caiion,
where one of our illustrations was made.
Calumet Branch. Just before entering Brown's Caiion, a branch
road can be seen running off to the northward. That is the short road up to
Calumet, where the Colorado Fuel and Iron Company have iron mines of
great value and in constant operation, for the ore is suitable for the making
of Bessemer steel. These mines are open, quarry-like excavations, and
the ore is therefore more easily handled than is usual. The grade on this
branch, four hundred and six feet to the mile, is said to be the heaviest in
the world where no cog-wheels are used. Only a few empty cars can be
hauled up; and the difficulty is almost as great in descending, for it requires
at least four cars, dragging with hard set brakes, to hold an engine under
control in going down. Marble and lumber in great quantities are also
shipped down this little branch from the neighborhood of Calumet.
Buena Vista. Buena Vista is the county seat of Chaffee County.
The town was incorporated in the month of December, 1879, and, for its
age, is a wonderfully thriving place. It is beautifully situated on the
Arkansas River, thirty-six miles below Leadville and 242 miles from
Denver. The town is quite an important station, and is surrounded by
good mines of gold and silver, fine pasture lands for stock and many
improved ranches. The city has an abundance of pure water, fine shade
trees, churches, schools, stores, etc. (Population, 1,800. Distance from
Denver, 242 miles. Elevation, 7,970 feet.)
Cottonwood Springs. The Cottonwood Hot Springs have long
been famous in Colorado for their curative properties. They were the
resort of the Indians before the whites took possession of the country, and
have since been greatly improved and made accessible to invalids and
tourists. The springs are situated six miles from Buena Vista, whence a
stage line conveys passengers arriving on the Denver & Rio Grande Rail
road to the springs. For cases of inflammatory rheumatism, lead poison
ing, and diseases of the blood, these waters possess remarkable curative
properties. The scenery of the valley in which the springs are situated is
of great loveliness, the Collegiate Range of mountains forming an imposing
background. Fine trout fishing can be found in ten minutes' walk up and
down Cottonwood Creek, and the neighboring hills abound in game. There
are good accommodations here for tourists and invalids.
After leaving Buena Vista the following small stations are passed ;
Americus, Riverside, Pine Creek, and Twin Lakes (station).

TWIN LAKES.
Pleasure Resort.
Elevation, 9,357 feet.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 43
Granite. At this point the stage line to Twin Lakes connects with
the trains. Placer mining by huge hydraulic systems are in full operadon
and have been successfully worked for the past twenty years. (Populadon,
ISO. Elevation, 8,945 feet. Distance from Denver, 259 miles.)
The station of Twin Lakes must not be confounded with the lakes
themselves. These most beautiful mountain tarns are best reached by a
seven miles stage ride from Granite Station. The drive is in itself a
delightful experience, and the lakes prove a most charming culmination.
You find yourself in a little valley about seven miles in area. Around you
on all sides, looming up grand and precipitous, are snow-capped mountain
peaks, each of them towering fully a mile high, from where you stand,
completely walling you in from the outer world. These mountains are
Mount Elbert, La Plata, and Twin Peaks, each
of them higher than the famous Pike's Peak,
Lake Mountain, Mount Sheridan, and Park
Range. They are all more or less covered, up
to the timber line, with fir and spruce trees, the
fragrance of which perfumes the atmosphere,
and, owing to the rarified air, the tops of the
peaks, on which rest the eternal snows, seem so
near that you think you could almost throw a
stone to their summits, though in fact the length of that very uphill stone-
throw would be considerably more than a mile. For about three-fourths of
its area the valley is occupied by the lakes, and to an ordinary observer it
is plain that these lakes were forraerly one and occupied the whole valley
up to the very foot of the mountains. At present, however, they are twins —
Siamese twins — for they are connected by a mountain stream, which, as
well as the lakes themselves, abound in the most delicious mountain trout
that ever nibbled at a hook or smoked on a platter.
Now let us row out into the middle of the upper lake. It seems as if
you were in the centre of a mighty amphitheatre, the arena of which is
water, the sloping sides fir- clad mountains, and the roof a great bowl in
verted, painted a gorgeous blue and lightly resting on the snow-capped
mountains. The sizzling dweller of cities may ask what is the thermometer
here? I do not know. I never saw one here. These people have no more
use for a thermometer than a toad has for a pocket-book. Old Sol rises
bright and fierce-looking every morning in an Italian sky, but his rays are
so tempered by the breezes from the mountains that by time they reach the
valley they are just pleasantly warm and exhilarating. But there is one
thing his rays will do, and city folk would better beware of them if they do
not want to peel off their outer cuticle, they will sunburn as effectually as if
conveyed through the medium of a burning glass; this is owing to the rarity
of the atmosphere. Flannels can and ought to be worn here every day, and
a person sitting reading or writing in-doors for an hour or so, in a room
where there is no fire, and while the sun is shining brightly outside, will find
the cold stealing up his nether limbs.
Returning to Granite and resuming the journey, the following small
stations are passed : Hayden, Crystal Lake, Malta and Eiler.

44 OVER THE RANGE.
This wonderful Cloud City first became

LEADVILLE,
The Great "Carbonate
Camp."
Population, 20,000.
Elevation, 10,200 feet.
Distance from Denver,
277 miles.

known to fame in 1859 as California Gulch, one
of the richest placer camps in Colorado. From
1859 to 1864 $5,000,000 in gold dust were washed
from the ground of this gulch. The camp was
afterwards nearly abandoned, and it was not
until 1876 that the carbonate beds of silver were
discovered. Immediately after this discovery a
great rush ensued to the carbonate camp, which
was named Leadville, and the population rose
from a nominal number to 30,000. Leadville is the county seat of Lake
County. It is the third city in size in Colorado, and the greatest and most
unique carbonate mining camp in the world. The visitor to Leadville is
irresistibly reminded of the words of Joaquin Miller: "Colorado, rare
Colorado! Yonder she rests; her head of gold pillowed on the Rocky
Mountains, her feet in the brown grass; the boundless plains for a play
ground; she is set on a hill before the world, and the air is very clear, so
that all may see her well." The city is lighted by gas and electricity; has
telephonic communication with surrounding points; has the usual conven
iences and luxuries of cities of corresponding size, and in all respect ranks
as one of the greatest cities of this great State. Leadville is one of the
most interesting cities in the world to the tourist. It abounds in scenes of a
novel and characteristic nature, and presents views of life entirely foreign
to the conventional. Mining methods are here fully illustrated in every
form, from lode mining to hydraulic and sluicing work. Leadville has a
handsome theatre, the Tabor Opera House, having a seating capacity of
1,000. The scenery around Leadville is magnificent. It is walled in on all
sides by towering mountains whose summits are crowned with eternal
snow. Occupying so high an altitude, the effect is remarkable, and tourists
can find no more striking nor interesting scenes than those presented by
Leadville and its weird and wonderful surroundings. Leadville is well
supplied with good hotels. Livery accommodations are first-class, and the
boulevard affords one of the finest drives in the State. Situated on the front
of Mount Massive, at the mouth of Colorado Gulch, and distant five miles
from Leadville are the popular Soda Springs and Evergreen Lakes. The
boulevard, a carefully constructed drive, one hundred feet in width, and
as smooth as a race track, gives access to the springs and lakes, a stage
connecting with Leadville twice a day. The springs are strongly impreg
nated with soda, and are of a highly medicinal character. There is excel
lent trout fishing within a few minutes' walk of the springs, pleasant drives
and rides are numerous, and placer as well as lode mining are in progress
in near proximity, easily accessible to the inspection of the tourist. As a
business point, Leadville is recognized as among the first in the State; with
its large population, great smelting works and vast mining industry, it
cannot help commanding the attention of business men and investors.
Between Leadville and Tennessee Pass are the following unimportant
stations: Leadville Junction, Keeldar and Crane's Park.
Tennessee Pass. Rising along a tortuous path cut at a heavy
grade, as usual, into the side hills, we mount slowly into Tennessee Pass,
which feeds the head of Eagle River on one side and one source of the

MOUNT OF THE HOLY CROSS.

46 . OVER THE RANGE
Arkansas on the other. It is a comparatively low and easy pass, covered
everywhere with dense timber, and a wagon road has long been followed
through it. Reaching an elevation of quite 10,433 feet, the train darts into
a tunnel half a mile long and on emerging at the western end we are on the
Pacific slope. There is nothing to be seen except an occasional pile of
ties, or a charcoal oven, save that now and then a gap in the hills shows
the gray rough summits of Galena, Homestake, and the other hights that
guard the Holy Cross. At each end of the Pass is a litde open glade or
"park," where settlers have placed their cabins and fenced off a few acres
of level ground whereon to cut hay, for nothing else will grow at this great
elevation. We can do no better service to the tourist than to quote Ernest Inger-
soll's description of this famous mountain given in "The Crest of the
Condnent." He says: "One of the side valleys, coming down to the
track at right angles from the southwestward
— I think it is Homestake Gulch— leads the eye
up through a glorious alpine avenue to where
the cathedral crest of a noble peak pierces the
sky. It is a summit that would attract the eye
anywhere, — its feet hidden in verdurous hills,
guarded by nightly crags, half-buried in seeth
ing clouds, its helmet vertical, frowning, plumed
with gleaming snow, —

nOUNT OF
THE
HOLY CROSS.
Elevation, 14,176 feet.

¦ Ay, every inch a king.'
" It is the Mount of the Holy Cross, bearing the sacred symbol in such
heroic characters as dwarf all human graving, and set on the pinnacle of
the world as though in sign of possession forever. The Jesuits went hand
in hand with the Chevalier Dubois, proclaiming Christian Gospel in the
northern forests; the Puritan brought his Testament to New England, the
Spanish banners of victory on the Golden shores of the Pacific were upheld
by the fiery zeal of the friars of San Francisco; the frozen Alaskan cliffs
resounded to the chanting of the monks of St. Peter and St. Paul. On every
side the virgin continent was taken in the name of Christ, and with all the
eclat of religious conquest. Yet from ages unnumbered, before any of
them, centuries oblivious in the mystery of past time, the Cross had been
planted here. As a prophecy during unmeasured generations, as a sign of
glorious fulfillment during nineteen centuries, from always and to eternity
a reminder of our fealty to heaven, this divine seal has been set upon our
proudest eminence. What matters it whether we write 'God' in the con
stitution of the United States, when here in the sight of all men is inscribed
this marvelous testimony to his sovereignty! Shining grandly out of the
pure ether, and above all turbulence of earthly clouds, it says: Humble thy
self, O man! Measure thy fiery works at their true insignificance. Uncover
thy head and acknowledge thy weakness. Forget not, that as high above
thy gilded spires gleams the splendor of this ever-living Cross, so are My
thoughts above thy thoughts, and My ways above thy ways."
Crane's Park is a beautiful park in the mountains at the western
foot of Tennessee Pass. Here are to be seen the kilns of charcoal burners,
and a wonderful valley and mountain view.

EAGLE RIVER
CANON.
Height of Walls,
2,000 feet.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 47
Red CliflF Canon. Just beyond Crane's Park the railroad enters
Red Cliff Cafion, a comparatively short but very interesting gorge in the
mountains. Red Cliff. This picturesque little town is the country seat of Eagle
County, and the entrepot of a large mining district. The mines of the
Battle Mountain and other districts contribute greatly to the business of the
place. Leadville with its smelters is only 25 miles distant, and this fact is
also an element of success among the many which give promise of future
prosperity to the town. The scenery around Red Cliff is of the grandest
and most beautiful description. To reach the town the traveler makes the
ascent and descent of Tennessee Pass, and obtains the best distant view
that can be had of the famous Mount of the Holy Cross. Just beyond Red
Cliff are the wonders of Eagle River Cafion. (Population, 1,000. Distance
from Denver, 300 miles. Elevation, 8,615 feet.)
Beyond Red Cliff the Eagle River Canon
opens to the view at first a comparatively wide
expanse, later more narrow, walled in on each
side by cliffs of vari-colored rocks, whose lofty
and apparently insurmountable summits bear
the dark banners of the pine. Admiration and
awe at this stupendous work of Nature take
possession of the mind, when "suddenly these
emotions are overshadowed by wonder and
almost incredulous surprise at the daring of man, for there above us on
the right, perched like the nest of heaven-scaling eagles, rest the habita
tions of men ! There are the shaft houses and abiding places of adventur
ous miners, who, having climbed these cliffs, pick in hand, have here
discovered rich veins of the precious metal, which, being blasted from its
matrix, is conveyed to the railroad track 2,000 feet below, by a most ingen
ious system of tramways and endless steel ropes. There is something very
impressive in the sight of these frail cliff-perched dwellings ; and the shaft-
penetrated, tunnel-pierced peaks suggest irresistibly the fabled cavernous
labyrinths of " Kor." Nowhere can the traveler find a raore interesting and
instructive illustration of mining methods than is here presented by the
shaft-scarred sides of Battle Mountain and the pinnacle-perched eyries of
Eagle River Cafion.
Minturn. Having passed through the caiion, the train brings up at the
eating station at Minturn, where a first class meal is always obtainable.
(Population, nominal. Elevation, 7,823 feet. Distance from Denver, 308
miles.) The Valley of the Eagle. Leaving Minturn, one enters the
Valley of Eagle River. Quieter scenes of pastoral and agricultural
achievements follow. Here are comfortable ranch houses surrounded by
fertile fields ; there are herds of cattle feeding contentedly in natural pas
tures ; while on all sides are seen evidences of peace, prosperity and plenty.
The Eagle River, a beautiful streara, whose pellucid waters do not conceal
the bright colored gravel of its bed, meanders through the valley, adding
to the beauty of the scene, and carrying with it the practical benefits of irri
gation, without which the soil would produce nothing but vegetation
suitable for grazing purposes. The clear, cold water swarms with trout, and

48

OVER THE RANGE

here the disciples of old Izaak Walton cannot fail to find ample room and
verge for plying their gentle craft.
In our journey through the valley we pass the following stations: Rock
Creek, Allenton, Sher
wood, Eagle, Gypsum,
Dotsero, Shoshone and
Sulphur Springs.

CANON
OF THE
GRAND RIVER.
A IVlarvelous Gorge.
One of the World's
Wonders.

EXPLORING THE WALLS.

Gradually the valley
narrows, high bluffs hem
us in on the left, the river
is close to the track on
the right, and its fertile
banks suddenly change
into a tumbled, twisted,
black and blasted ex
panse of scoria, the out
pouring of some ancient
volcano of tremendous
activity. The few trees
on the hither side of the
stream are also black, an
inheritance of fire ; the
waters under the black
banks, and reflecting the
blackened trees, take on
a swarthy hue — a Styg
ian picture! Just beyond,
a distant glimpse of
fertile country, and the
clear waters of the Eagle
are lost in the muddy
current of the Grand,
and a cafion greater in
extent and more varied
in character than that of
the Arkansas opens be
fore us. As the train
speeds downward, the
mountains on the horizon

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 49
behind us seem to rise up towards the zenith as though the miracle of crea
tion was being repeated before our eyes. Soon, however, the distant
mountains are shut out and only the sky above, the river and track beneath
and the cliffs around are visible ; and here begins a panorama, kaleido
scopic in its ever changing forms and colors, the wonder of the one who
sees, the despair of the one who wished to tell othets what he saw.
In places the effect is that of giant Egpdan art and architecture. Vast
bastions of granite, strata on strata, rise to a stupendous height, braced
against rock masses behind them, infinitely vaster. Suggestions of the
Sphinx and of the pyramids can be caught in the severe and gigantic rock-
piled structures on every hand. These are not made up of boulders,
nor are they solid monoliths; like those in the Royal Gorge. On the con
trary, they are columns, bastions, buttresses, walls, pyramids, towers,
turrets, even statues, of stratified stone, with sharp cleavage, not in the least
weather-worn, presenting the appearance of Brobdignagian masonry —
hence I use the phrase "rock-piled structures" advisedly and as best
descriptive of what there exists.
But the kaleidoscope is shaken and the rock pieces are re-arranged.
The effect is startling. We have left Egypt, with her shades of gray and
her frowning, massive and gigantic forms. We are in a region of glowing
colors, where the vermillion, the maroon, the green and the yellow abound
and mingle and contrast. What strange country was the prototype of this?
Ah I yonder is something characteristic — a terraced pyramid banded with
brilliant and varied colors — the teocoli of the Aztecs.
Whirling around a headland of glowing red rock, which it seems ought
to be called "Flamingo Point," we are in a region of ruddy color and of
graceful forms. Minarets, from whose summits the muezzin's call might
readily be imagined falling upon the ears of the dwellers in this "Orient in
the West," spires more graceful than that of Bruges, more lofty than that
of Trinity, towers more marvelous than Pisa's leaning wonder, columns
more curious than that of Vendome, splintered and airy pinnacles, infinite
in variety, innumerable! inimitable! indescribable!
In a moment darkness and the increased rumble of wheels; then light
and another marvelous view. We have passed tunnel No. i, the portcullis;
darkness again for a moment, then the blue sky above us. We have
entered through the postern gate ; darkness for the third time — absolute,
unmitigated blackness of darkness; this must be "the deepest dungeon
'neath the castle moat." But soon again we see the blessed light, and there
before us lies Glenwood Springs ! — Colorado's Greatest Resort.
Glenwood Springs is the pleasure and
health resort of Colorado, as well as a flourishing
and growing town. It is the county seat of Gar
field County. The picturesque scenery of the
Grand River, from its source midst the peaks
and crags of the Rockies, to its debouch into the
magnificent waters of the broad Colorado, has
been the theme of able writers in prose and
poetry, but at no spot in its rapid march to the
sea, do the waters of the Grand glisten and
ripple upon the shores of a lovelier valley than

Glenwood Springs.
Health and Pleasure
Resort,
Wonderful Hot
Springs.
Distance from Denver,
367 miles.
Elevation, 5,758 feet.
Population, 3,000.

so OVER THE RANGE.
at its confluence with the Roaring Fork, where are situated the springs and
city of Glenwood. Here the sentinel ranges, which have guarded the
stormy passage of the turbulent stream through mountain pass and precip
itous cation, seem to have deployed their ranks, that they might surround
and embrace a valley so lovely in its landscape and set in a frame of such
scenic grandeur. The springs themselves are phenomenal, innumerable
fountains bubbling up over an area, covering both sides of the river, and
varying in volume from twenty to one thousand cubic inches per second.
The principal springs on the north side of the Grand River discharge an
immense body of water, heated in nature's furnace to 140 degrees Fahren
heit, which flows in a broad stream to its outlet through an aqueduct
recently constructed, forming a beautiful island, upon which is erected a com
modious and well appointed bathing house, provided with every convenience
for sitz, plunge and vapor bathing. The waters have been found of great
benefit to invalids, and as a result the springs are largely patronized. Aside
from the beautiful valley selected for its site, and the attractions pre
sented by its wonderful springs, Glenwood City possesses many advantages
and material resources which are destined to make it one of the most im
portant points on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The town has
electric lights, water works, and all of the modern improvements. Glen
wood is well supplied with hotels. The new Hotel Colorado, completed
and opened in June, 1893, at a cost of $350,000, is probably one of the finest
resort hotels in the United States. It is built of Roman tiles and Colorado
peach-blow stone and contains two hundred guest rooms and forty private
baths, is built in Italian style, and located under the shadow of the mountains,
with the banks of the famous Pool immediately in front of it. ' It is sur
rounded by beautiful parks and drives, and withal, is a most delightful
place to spend a season. This beautiful hotel is owned by Mr. Walter
Raymond of the Raymond Vacation Excursions, and all the parties man
aged by him spend at least a week here. The hotel is under the manage
ment of Mr. A. W. Bailey, formerly of Manitou, whose ability as a hotel
manager is second to none in the country. There are two other hotels,
though less pretentious, the Hotel Glenwood and the Hotel Barlow.
Accomniodations for Bathing. The bath house recently erected
at the wonderful hot springs here, is of the most elegant design. It is built
of red sandstone, and the walls of all rooms are of red or cream colored
pressed brick, wainscoted with Texas pine and colored enamels. There
are forty-four large bath rooms, in two departments, for the respective
sexes. Each bath room has two compartments. One is lined with enamel
and set with a porcelain tub, having bronze appliances for readily supply
ing hot, warm or cold, mineral water ; and hot, warm or cold, fresh water,
also showers of warm or cold water. Any desired temperature, from 45° up
to 120° Fahrenheit can be supplied. The other compartment is furnished
as a dressing room, and provided with a settee for reclining after the bath.
These compartments have high ceilings and are well lighted from elevated
windows by day, and by incandescent electric lamps at night. Light re
freshments are served in each room by attendants summoned by electric
bells. Massage treatment is administered in a room for that purpose.
Besides the bath rooms, the building contains handsome sitting and smok
ing rooms with c>pen fires, physician's room, billiard room, coffee kitchen.

BATH HOUSE AND POOL, GLENWOOD SPRINGS

S2 OVER THE RANGE.
linen rooms, hair dressing rooms, laundry, etc. All rooms are kept supplied
with fresh air at an equable temperature throughout the year. Every
accessory for the luxurious and health-giving bath is provided in the build
ing. The baths are supplied from the main spring, which yields a constant
flow of 2,500,000 gallons per day of highly mineralized hot water, at a
temperature of 124.2° Fahrenheit. This water is a remarkable remedial
agent, aiding or effecting cures of scrofula, rheumatism, gout, lead poison
ing, diabetes, Bright's disease, and all skin and blood diseases. The new
bath house stands on the margin of the Mammoth Swimming Pool.
The Bathing Pool. This is remarkable for its size and the com
pleteness of its conveniences. It is nearly six hundred feet in length, by
one hundred and ten feet in width at the widest part. Its depth gradually
increases from three and one-half feet at one end to six feet at the other.
The walls are of red sandstone, and the bottom is paved with hard pressed
brick. Its surface area is 43,000 square feet, or one acre ; and the capacity,
1,500,000 gallons. It is constantly supplied with mineral water from the
main and Yampa Springs, and kept at a temperature of about 95° Fahren
heit. There are one hundred and thirteen dressing rooms, in separate
departments for the sexes. These are warmed in winter, and a hooded way
leads into the water. At night the pool is brilliantly lighted by arc electric
lights. Bathing suits are supplied at a moderate charge. Thousands who
have tried bathing in the pool pronounce it the most delightful of baths.
The exercise which it admits of while bathing is deemed especially bene
ficial to many kinds of invalids.
The Vapor Caves. A remarkable feature of these springs are the
vapor caves — natural openings in the rocks to which the steam from the
hot springs obtains access. In one of these natural caves the company has
erected a unique vapor bath house with ample dressing rooras, a number of
private vapor rooms, shower bath room, etc., all lighted by electric lights,
affording vapor baths in either cave or private rooms at a temperature of
105° to no° Fahrenheit. These baths are not only a luxury to those who
are well, but are especially recommended by physicians for a number of
serious ailments.
Aspen Branch. Extending from Glenwood Springs in a southerly
direction is the branch of the Denver & Rio Grand_e Railroad to Aspen^ and
its Tvonderf ul mines. The following points are on this line.
Carbondale. Situated at the confluence of Rock Creek and Roaring
Fork, twelve miles south of Glenwood Springs. This is the proposed point
for coking ovens and blast furnace to be erected by the Colorado Fuel &
Iron Company. (Population, 500. Distance from Denver, 379 miles. Ele
vation, 6,181 feet.)
The Elk Mountain Railway, starting at Carbondale, where it
connects with the Aspen branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, runs
up the valley of Rock Creek, in a southerly direcdon, for about twenty-two
miles, and then in nearly an easterly line to Robinson's Lake, thirty miles
from Carbondale. The line will be constructed from Robinson's Lake to
the mines in the vicinity of Crystal, in the near future, making a distance
of thirty-five miles frora Carbondale.
Avalanche Creek. Twelve miles from Carbondale. This will be

* 1 tMJ^,^

54 OVER THE RANGE
the shipping point for silver and iron ores located six to eight miles up
Avalanche Creek.
Penny's Hot Springs. Fourteen miles south of Carbondale, on
Rock Creek. These springs are said to be equal to those of Glenwood in
healing and restorative power.
Coal Basin. Nineteen miles from Carbondale. At this station all
the coal from Coal Basin will be received. This is the largest and finest
body of coking coal in Colorado, and is largely controlled by the Colorado
Fuel & Iron Company. Extensive coking ovens will be erected at this point.
Prospect. Twenty-one miles from Carbondale. At or near this
point will be located the coal breaker and extensive plant of the Pacific
Coal & Coke Company, who own the extensive anthracite coal fields of
Chair Mountain. This company is preparing to ship five hundred tons of
anthracite coal per day. This coal is said to be equal to the best red ash
coal of Pennsylvania.
Robinson's Lake. Thirty miles from Carbondale. At this point
are located the finest marble and slate quarries west of the Missouri River.
Yule Creek joins Rock Creek here, and all the valuable silver ores of that
district will be loaded here.
Crystal. This is an old mining camp and is thirty-five miles south
east from Carbondale, on the head waters of Rock Creek. In the vicinity
of this camp are located nearly one hundred and fifty patented silver mines.
It is estimated that the output from this district will be one hundred tons
per day.
Scenic Attraction. The line passes the base of Sopris Mountain
and Chair Mountain, and terminates in the great elbow of the Elk Moun
tains at Crystal. No finer scenery can be found in the West. In a ride of
two hours the tourist can be transported from the beautiful valley of Roar
ing Fork nearly to the summit of the Elk Mountain Range, and car view
nearly all the prominent peaks from Mount Massive west.
Returning to Carbondale, the stations on the main line to Aspen are as
follows: Emma, Snow Mass and Woody Creek.
Aspen, the county seat of Pitkin County, is
located in one of the most noted mining regions
of Colorado, seventy-five miles northwest from
Buena Vista, and is the terminus of the Aspen
branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad.
The valleys of the Roaring Fork River and its
confluents. Castle, Hunter's and Maroon Creeks,
are especially fitted for agriculture, and the hills
and mesas adjacent form a fine range for stock,
which in addition to the mining interests will
surely make Aspen one of the most prosperous
cities in the State. Stores and shops of all kinds, carrying large lines of
goods, are abundant, and the business done here would do credit to a town
boasdng five times its present population. The good faith of the people is
manifested by the character of the buildings they have erected. It is a
town of beautiful homes, and has most excellent society. All the principal
religious denominadons have suitable houses of worship, and the public
schools are of an excellent order. The hotels are good, there is a fine

ASPEN.
Great Mining Town.
Health and Pleasure
Resort.
Population, 11,000.
Elevation, 7,874 leet.
Distance from Denver,
40S miles.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

55

opera house, and the town is supplied with pure water from Castle Creek.
An electric light plant illuminates the principal places of business as well
as the streets. The climate is delicious and especially beneficial in all
pulmonary complaints. Aspen is a garden town, and displays many beau
tiful lawns, sprinkled and beautified by flowers.
The main industry of Pitkin County, of which Aspen is the county seat,
is mining. The town is situated upon the great zone or belt which passes
through the country in a northeasterly and southwesterly course, and has
tributary territory for from twenty to thirty miles each way. The ores are
of good grade and are found in remarkably large deposits. The Great
Central lead, with its spurs and lateral feeders, resembles a river with many
branches. Silver and lead
are the principal min
eral products, although
gold has been found and
profitably worked at In
dependence, in the east
ern part of the county,
and the Iron ores at
Cooper's Camp, in the
southwestern part, are
found in immense de
posits, and are of the
very finest quality. Build
ing stone is found, and
the rock is unsurpassed
in texture or color, and
the surrounding hills
will be great producers
for outside markets.
Some coal is found in
Pitkin County, but not
in extensive measures as
in Garfield, the great coal
county of the United
States, which adjoins up
on the north. There is
no territory of similar
area with richer or more
varied products than Pit
kin County. The scenery
around this thriving city
is wonderfully varied and
beautiful. Situated in the
heart of the mountains,
and surrounded by the
most wonderful works of
nature. Aspen will always
be an attractive place to
MARBLE CANON. the tourist and the lover

56 OVER THE RANGE
of the grand and marvelous. Hunting and fishing are found here in their
perfection. Nature seeras to have made Aspen her favorite child, and has
poured out at her feet all the rich gifts of her cornucopia. (Population,
ii,ooo. Distance from Denver, 408 miles. Elevation, 7,874 feet.)
Returning to Glenwood Springs, we cross to the western bank of the
river, and resume our journey towards the Occident, down the beautiful
valley of the Grand.
New Castle. Here are located extensive coal mines and coking
ovens of the Colorado Fuel & Iron Company. (Distance from Denver, 379
miles. Population, 1,500. Elevation, 5,560 feet.)
Rifle. The debarking point for Meeker and other points reached by
stage lines. Excellent hunting and fishing grounds 'surround Rifle in all
directions. Elk, deer, bear, trout and all kinds of game are in abundance.
(Distance from Denver, 393 miles. Population, 200. Elevation, 5,500 feet.)
The Grand. VaUey is noted for its agricultural resources, being
one of the most prolific producing portions of the state. All manner of
grains are raised in great abundance, and the fruits, especially peaches,
grown in this valley are unsurpassed. The principal railroad points are
Parachute and DeBeque. In the Valley of the Grand River, and sur-

Grand Junction.
Chief City of
Grand River Valley, at
Junction of Grand and*
Gunnison Rivers.
Population, 4,000.
Distance from Denver,
456 miles, via Standard
Gauge Une; 425 miles
via Narrow Gauge Line.
Elevation, 4,594 feet.
Eating Station.

rounded by a fertile and well watered country.
Grand Junction is the leading city of western
Colorado. An extensive system of irrigating
ditches has been established, and all the land
under these ditches taken up, and most of it
cultivated. The comparatively low altitude of
this valley (it being the lowest among the Rocky
Mountains with but one exception in Utah)
makes it especially adapted to the cultivation
of fruit. Peaches, grapes, apricots, pears and
small fruits flourish here in great luxuriance,
and most of the farmers have planted orchards
and vineyards of greater or less extent. The
usual farm products thrive in the valley, and large crops can be counted on
with the greatest confidence. Grand Junction is the county seat of Mesa
County, and has business and public buildings of a substantial character.
Shade trees have been planted on each side of the streets, giving the town
a most pleasing and attractive appearance. There is one thing sure about
the Grand River Valley, and that is, it will never want for water; and with
plenty of water for irrigation secured, the future prosperity of the valley
and the consequent growth of Grand Junction are both assured. Back in
the hills great herds are pastured, and extensive coal mines and large
natural gas wells add to the many resources of this thriving city.
Grand Junction is well naraed, for here is the converging point of the
standard and narrow-gauge lines of the Penver & Rio Grande Railroad
with the Rio Grande Western line for Ogden, Salt Lake and the Pacific
Coast, as well as the confluence of the two largest rivers in Colorado, the
Gunnison and the Grand.
Fruita is the next station to the west, and while the town does not
appear to araount to a great deal, yet the experiment which is being carried

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

57

GRAND CANON OF THE COLORADO.

on here is of interest to all. The experiment to which reference has been
made is that of fruit culture, the effort being to prove this valley as well
fitted for this purpose as Utah. So far the experiraents have been success
ful. (Population, 100. Distance from Denver, 436 miles. Elevation, 4,523 feet.)
The Colorado Desert. For a stretch of about two hundred and
fifty miles beyond Fruita no agricultural country will be seen — over one
hundred miles of this, in fact, is known as the "Colorado Desert." But well
inforraed people assert that all this desert needs to be made fertile is
irrigation. Water can be got on this land from the Grand River, and per
haps before another decade has passed away the "Colorado Desert "will

58

OVER THE RANGE

'The Great

be ranked with that geographical myth of twenty years ago,
American Desert."
The Book Cliffs. The intervening space of one hundred miles
between the Grand River and the Green would be monotonous were it not
for the glimpses one obtains, to the left, of the snow-crowned San Rafael

CASTLE GATE.

and Sierra La Sal Mountains, and the constant presence, to the right, of the
multiform and varicolored Book Cliffs. These Cliffs are the northern shore
of what in forraer ages raust have been a great inland sea, across whose
basin the railroad runs. They vary in altitude frora seven thousand to nine
thousand feet and divide the waters of the Grand River frora those of the
White, extending two hundred railes from east to west. There are no
stations of any importance between Grand Junction and Green River, the
train pausing in transit only for water.
Green River. This is an eating station, on the west bank of the

TO THE GOLDEN GATE, 59
Green River, and on alighdng from the cars the traveler is astonished at
the elegance of the hotel and the beauty of its surroundings, situated, as it
is, away out on the edge of the desert. A handsome lawn of shaven grass
surrounds the hotel, ornamented with trees, shrubs and flowers. All the raod
ern conveniences are to be found within, even to the latest style of electric
light, and one of the best meals to be found on the entire journey is here set
before the traveler. The hotel buildings are owned by the railroad com
pany, and no pains have been spared to make everything first class. Green
River is a shipping point of considerable importance for stock. From
Green River a stage line runs to the new gold discoveries in the Henry
Mountains to the south. (Population, nominal. Distance from Denver, 531
miles. Elevation, 4,069 feet.)
Grand Canon of the Colorado. From the bridge across Green
River the traveler, can, if the day is clear, catch a glimpse of the rugged walls
of the Grand Cafion of the Colorado, scarcely fifty miles to the southward.
Climbing the Wasatch Range. Frora Green River to Soldier
Summit, a distance of ninety-nine miles, the grade is a constant ascent, the
scenery growing wilder and raore varied as the advance is made. The
road extends to the northward, and, after passing Sphinx, Desert Switch
and Cliff Siding, unimportant side tracks, reaches Lower Crossing, twenty-
five miles from Green River.
Lower Crossing is situated on Price River in the midst of interest
ing scenery. Stock raising is tributary to the town. (Pofiulation nominal.
Distance from Denver, 556 miles. Elevation, 4,630 feet.)
Price. Situated on the south fork of the Price River, the town has a
very fertile valley, though of limited extent, surrounding it. What arable
land there is has been carefully utilized, and large crops of potatoes, alfalfa,
oats and vegetables are raised here, through the aid of irrigation. There
are mines of asphaltum to the northward, which are worked extensively,
and the product shipped to the east. Price is also an important shipping
point for cattle and sheep. The scenery here is very attractive, and the
hunting and fishing are excellent. (Population, 100. Distance from Den
ver, 595 miles. Elevation, 5,547 feet.) '
Fort Du Chesne. Eighty miles to the northward from Price, on
the Uintah and Uncompahgre Indian reservation, is Fort Du Chesne, the
Government post, supplies for which are forwarded from Price. Fort Du
Chesne, has four companies of infantry and two of cavalry, numbering in
ail three hundred men. There are 4,000,000 acres in the reservation, all of
which are at the service of only 2,500 Indians.
Helper. End of the railroad divisions and dining station. (Popula
tion, 500. Elevation, 6,000 feet.) Eleven miles beyond Price station the
train enters the famous portals of Castle Gate,
which stand at the entrance of the Price River
Canon. Castle Gate is similar in many re
spects to the gateway in the Garden of Gods.
The two huge pillars, or ledges of rock com
posing it, are offshoots of the cliffs behind.
They are of different heights, one measuring
five hundred, and the other four hundred and

CASTLE GATE.
Entrance to
Price River Canon.
Height, 500 feet.

6o OVER THE RANGE
fifty feet, from top to base. They are richly dyed with red, and the firs and
pines growing about them, but reaching only to their lower strata, render
this coloring raore noticeable and beautiful. Between the two sharp pro
montories, which are separated only by a narrow space, the river and the
railway both run, one pressing closely against the other. The stream leaps
over a rocky bed, and its banks are lined with tangled brush. Once past
the gate, and looking back, the bold headlands forming it have a new and
.more attractive beauty. They are higher and more massive, it seems, than
, when we were in their shadow. No other pinnacles approach them in size or
majesty. They are landmarks up and down the canon, their lofty tops catch
ing the eye before their bases are discovered. It was down Price River
Canon, and past Castle Gate, that Albert Sidney Johnston marched his army
home from Utah. For miles now, and until the mountains are crossed, the
route chosen by the General is closely followed. The gateway is hardly lost
to view by a turn in the caiion before we were .scaling the wooded heights.
The river is never lost sight of. The cliffs which hem us in are filled with
curious forms. Now there is seen a mighty castle, with moats and towers,
loopholes and wall; now a gigantic head appears. At times side canons,
smaller than the one we are in, lead to verdant heights beyond, where game
of every variety abounds.
Kyune. Large stone quarries are worked here. (Distance from
Denver, 614 miles.)
Pleasant Valley Junction. This little town is situated in the
midst of rich and extensive coal measures. A branch road runs to the
coal mines a distance of about twenty miles to the southward. The coal is
valuable for coking, and is used in the various smelters of the territory.
(Population, 200. Distance frora Denver, 620 miles. Elevation, 7,177 feet.)
Coal Branch. From Pleasant Valley Junction the Coal Branch
extends to Mud Creek, a distance of 20 miles. The intervening stations are
Hale, Schofield and Coal Mine. The chief business of the road is the
transportation of coal, which is mined extensively here.
Soldier Summit. Here we are on the highest railroad point on the
Wasatch Range. Good pasturage covers the mountain tops, and great
herds of cattle, horses and sheep graze here araong the sage brush. The
scenery here is wild and picturesque, and the view is wide, erabracing a
great sweep of serrated raountain summits. (Population, nominal. Dis
tance from Denver, 627 railes. Elevadon, 7,465 feet.) From this point the
descent is made to the Utah Valley.
Red Narrows. Here the cliffs rise on each side of the track,
assuraing fantasdc forms, and glowing with varied colors, among which red
is predominant ; hence, the name.
Thistle Junction. This is the junction point of the main line
and the San Pete Valley branch extending to Salina. (Population 500
Elevation, 5,043 feet. Distance from Denver, 652 miles.)
The San Pete Valley Branch of the Rio Grande Western starts
toward the vast mines and quarries, grain fields and fruit gardens that lie
toward the south frora Thistle. Glance for a moment down this branch line
Two miles from Thisde is Asphaltura station, where there is a bed of nearly
pure asphaltum, covering a square mile, and from eight to fourteen feet
thick. Six miles further, and at Nebo a view is caught of Mount Nebo one

TO THE GOLDEN GATE, 6 1
of the tallest and grandest peaks in Utah, snow-capped all the year. About
a mile below Nebo the road enters the Indian Reservation, and six miles
onward is Indianola, around which cluster the adobe houses and tepees of
a branch of the great Ute tribe, whence Utah has its name. They do a little
farming and stock-raising, and a good deal of hunting and fishing, and, all
things considered, are generally doing well. Whirling on through twenty
miles of pastures and farms, past Hilltop and Milburn, at Fairview a glor
ious view of the San Pete Valley, "the granary of Utah,'' bursts upon the
enchanted eye. The whole country for fifty miles is a mingling of field and
garden. Only two miles more, and the train sweeps into Mount Pleasant,
nestled in peach and apricot, apple, pear and plum trees, all bowed down
with their loads of fruit. The town stands at the foot of the mountain on
a coramanding site. It has about 3,000 population, a flouring-mill and
planing mill, and is the seat of Wasatch Academy, a Presbyterian school
of some repute. Five railes in twelve rainutes, and Spring City is passed,
with great masses of snow-crowned mountains east and southeast of it, and,
in ten miles more, Ephraim's bowers of fruit and shade are entered. In a
population of 2,200, there are 800 school children, besides all those too
young for schooling. A new depot, new hotel and many other new build
ings tell the story of prosperity.
A dash of six railes onward, and Manti is reached, with 2,300 people,
and hardly a poor man among them. Here, at the top of four lofty terraces
hewn from the mountain side, stands the raagnificent Mormon teraple,
which has cost $2,500,000, and is only second to the one in Salt Lake City.
It is nearly two hundred feet long, one hundred wide and one hundred high,
with raassive towers at each end rising one hundred and seventy-five feet in
the air. It is built of snow-white oolite, quarried out of the site on which it
stands, and the whole workmanship is exquisite. It can be plainly seen for
forty miles up and down the valley. A hot spring, on the edge of the town,
pours out a hundred cubic feet a minute of water gifted with remarkable
medicinal qualities. Just -below Manti are the strange "Saleratus Beds,"
where for two miles or more the road runs through vast deposits of soda
pure enough for cooking purposes.
The train rushes on through a continuous succession of grain fields and
orchards. Sterling, Gunnison and Willow Creek are passed, the Sevier
Valley is entered, and the locomotive screams its greeting to Salina, the
present terminus of the branch. Just back of the town are mountains of
rock salt, much of it as clear as crystal, and absolutely pure. Millions on
millions of tons of it can be blasted out as cheap as dirt. About a raile
south of these mountainous monuments to the memory of Lot's wife is a
mountain of almost pure gypsum, and there is a kaolin enough to furnish
all the potteries and candy-makers of the world. The whole region abounds
with garae and fish. Returning again to the main line we find that the
Spanish Fork Canon is charmingly picturesque, and a spot
which would delight the artist. It is characterized by fresh foliage, soft
contours, charming contrasts, and sparkling waters. Emerging frora the
caiion the traveler realizes that one stage of his raountain journey has been
achieved, and before him lies one of the most ferdle valleys in the world.
Utah Valley. This favored spot presents the appearance of a well-

62 OVER THE RANGE.
cultivated park. It has an Arcadian beauty, and resembles the vales of
Scodand. In the centre rests Utah Lake, where
"... the stars and mountains view
The stillness of their aspect in each trace
Its clear depth yields of their far height and hue."
A litde back frora the lake stand the towns of Provo and Springville,
shaded by the near peaks of the range. Utah Valley possesses a ferdle
soil, a delightful climate, and is one of the best farming secdons of Utah.
Fruit trees and grape vines grow as readily as hay and cereals. Eastward
the oblong-shaped basin is shut in by the Wasatch Mountains ; and on the
west in the Oquirrh Range. Northward are low hills, or mesas, crossing
the valley and separating it from that of the Great Salt Lake; while in the
south, the east and west ranges approach each other and form blue-tinted
walls of uneven shape. To the left of thi.s barrier Mount Nebo, highest
and grandest of the Utah peaks, rises majestically above all surroundings.
Its summit sparkles with snow, its lower slopes are wooded and soft, while
from it, and extending north and south, run vast, broken, vari-colored con
freres. The valley is like a well-kept garden ; farm joins farm ; crystal
streams water it ; and scattered about in rich profusion are long lines of
fruit trees, amid which are trim, white houses. All these evidences of
prosperity testify to the virtues of industry, frugality and perseverance,
which no one can deny are possessed by the Mormon farmers.
Spanish Fork. This is the first town in Utah Valley that the west
bound tourist enters. It is situated on the Spanish Fork River, and is a
most pleasant rural village. Fruit and shade trees abound. Agricultural,
horticultural, and pastoral industries are pursued by the inhabitants. Vine
yards flourish, wine is made, dairy products are a specialty, and the cereals
and all kinds of vegetables are cultivated. (Population, 2,500. Distance
from Denver, 664 miles. Elevation, 4,721 feet.)
Springville. This is another typical Mormon town. It is only four
miles from Spanish Fork, and naturally possesses similar characteristics.
The town derives its name from the fact that a strong hot spring pours its
waters into a stream just above the town, in Hobble Cafion. The water
does not freeze in winter, and thus a flouring mill run by it is enabled to
work the year round. (Population, 2,500. Distance from Denver, 667
miles. Elevation, 4,565 feet.)
Tintic Branch extends southward from Springville, on through
Payson and Goshen, a region rich in all agricultural productions. West of
Goshen, the branch line enters Pinon Canon, and runs for ten miles through
as wild and rugged scenes as can be found in all this region of scenic
wonders. The track through the caiion is a dizzy puzzle in engineering.
It winds and climbs, twists, turns and wriggles, and at last absolutely
crosses itself backward and forward, tying itself into a loop like a double
bow-knot. There are but two similar track tangles in the United States,
one in California and the other iu Colorado. Out of this caiion labyrinth,
the line emerges at Silver City in the far-famed Tintic mining-carap ; and
just on beyond that, will doubtless ere long rush its iron-horse into the
newly discovered Deep Creek bonanza region, whose richness is now attract
ing wide-spread attention.

64

OVER THE Range

This pretty little city belongs to the best
type of Mormon towns, and a description of it
will serve to give the reader a good idea of the
characteristics of all the towns built by the Mor
mons. The dwellings, as a rule, are comfortable,
but not imposing in appearance. Many of them
are constructed of adobe or sun-dried bricks, and
all are situated in lots of generous proportions
and surrounded by ornamental and fruit trees.
Water for irrigating purposes flows down each
side of the streets, and shade trees in abundance
and of luxuriant growth render the walks cool
and inviting. Gardens filled with fruits, flowers and vegetables are the
rule, and a quiet, peaceful, industrious semi-rural life is the good fortune of
the residents here. The town is erainently fitted for a health and pleasure

PROVO.
County Seat of Utah Co.
Summer Resort.
Population, 5,000.
Distance from Denver,
672 miles.
Elevation, 4,517 feet.

SPANISH FORK CANON.
resort, and has also great advantages as a manufacturing centre. The
Timpanogas River furnishes unexcelled water power, while inexhaustible
supplies of artesian water are to be found at a depth of from forty to two
hundred feet. The city has, in fact, the finest water supply of any in Utah
Territory. Provo has a fine public school system and is the seat of th'-

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

65

Brigham Young Academy, which was amply endowed by the first President
of the Mormon Church, from whom the school takes its narae. Its churches
and public buildings, including an opera house, are a credit to its people.
who are of a literary taste and inclined to liberality of thought. Utah Lake,
a fine body of fresh water, lies to the southwest, and to the north and east
are the Wasatch Mountains. Farming, horticulture and the raising of
. cattle and sheep are tributary industries, while in the town are large saw
mills, flouring mills and woolen mills, the most extensive in Utah.
Utah Lake. Mention has already been made of this beautiful body
of water, but the statistical traveler may want to know something more

TRAMWAY IN LITTLE COTTONWOOD CANON.
definite about its dimensions. The lake is thirty miles long, six miles wide,
and is fed by the American Fork, Spanish Fork and Provo Rivers, and
Salt, Peteetweet and Hobble Creeks. Its outlet is the Jordan River which,
flowing northward, empties into Great Salt Lake. There are plenty of fish
in Utah Lake, chiefly trout and mullet.
American Fork. On the western extreraity of Utah Lake, is
American Fork, a thriving town beautifully situated and embowered in
trees. Agricultural and pastoral industries are tributary to its prosperity.
(Population, 1,800. Distance frora Denver, 685 miles. Elevadon, 4,567
feet.)

66 OVER THE RANGE,
Lehi. Three miles from American Fork is Lehi, another thriving
town also on LItah Lake. Fruit and shade trees abound and make the
town a place of sylvan beauty. The same industries thrive here as in the
sister town mentioned above. (Population, 3,000. Distance from Denver,
688 miles. Elevation, 4,544 feet.)
Bingham Junction. This station is at the junction of the Bing
ham and Alta branches of the road, and, therefore, is quite a busding place
in the way of railroad business, though it has but a nominal population.
(Distance from Denver, 706 miles. Elevadon, 4,366 feet.)
Bingham Branch. This branch extends southwest to Bingham, a
distance of sixteen miles. The intervening stations are Revere, Lead Mine
and Terra Cotta.
Bingham. The town raay almost be classed as a suburb of Salt
Lake City, as it is less than an hour's ride from the capital of Utah Territory.
The main industry of the surrounding population is mining. (Population,
900. Distance frora Denver, 724 railes. Elevation, 4,375 feet.)
Alta Branch. This branch extends to the northward from Bing
ham Junction to Alta, a distance of thirty-five miles. The intermediate
stations are Sandy and Wasatch. The line passes through the Little
Cottonwood Cafion en route.
Alta. This is a mining town known all round the world. The place
is not only entertaining in itself, but in its neighborhood are a large nuraber
of easily accessible gorges, lakes and hilltops full of artistic material and
¦of trout fishing ; or, if the tourist goes late in the season, of good shooting
and ample opportunity for dangerous adventures in mountaineering. The
Little Cottonwood cafion is one of those great crevices between the peaks
of the Wasatch Range, plainly visible from Salt Lake City, and dis
tinguished by its white walls, which, when wet with the morning dews, gleam
like monstrous mirrors as the sunlight reaches them from over the top of
the range. The River Jordan. After the valley of Utah Lake has been left
behind, en route to Salt Lake City, on the left of the track is seen a sraall
river of yellow water meandering through the sage brush and volcanic
scoria. The river is the Jordan, so called because it connects the Utah
with the Great Salt Lake, as its namesake does Galilee and the Dead Sea.
In July, 1847, Brigham Young stood on En
sign Peak, the " Mount of Prophesy," and an
nounced to his followers that down in the valley
below should be founded the new "City .of
Zion,'' the future horae of the Latter Day Saints.
Up to 1871 the original settlers virtually lived
apart from the rest of the world. This was
owing to the religious views of the Mormons,
which made them a peculiar and isolated peo
ple. To mining is due the first incursion of
Gentile population, which population has steadily increased, until at present
the community of Salt Lake City differs but little from any other in its
social, business or religious aspect, except that it possesses, in addition to
the accepted religious .associations which exist elsewhere, one which differs
irom all others. The city is situated at the base of the Wasatch Mountains

SALT LAKE CITY.
Capital of Utah
Territory.
Population, 50,000.
Elevation, 4,228 feet.
Distance from Denver,
716 miles.

BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH.

68 OVER THE RANGE.
which are a part of the great Continental Range dividing the Far West
from the plains which extend from the base of the Rockies to the
Missouri River. The finest residence portion of the city occupies the
mountain bench, once the shore of a great inland sea, from which, ages
ago, the waters receded until they settled in the basin of the Great Salt
Lake, distant eighteen railes from the water marks yet plainly to be
seen above the city. The location is such as to comraand a view of
the entire valley, both ranges of mountains, and the southern portion
of the lake. The streets are one hundred and thirty-two feet wide and
bordered on each side with long rows of shade trees. Streams of pure
water are conducted in ditches along both sides of all the streets. The busi
ness sections are well built, and the business streets are paved. One of
the largest business enterprises of the city is the Cooperative E'Stablishment.
For convenience it is universally called the "Co-op."; its title in full is the
" Zion's Cooperative Mercantile Institution." It has a central building for
headquarters and branches throughout the city and Territory. Whenever
one sees a building with the mystic initials "Z. C. M. I." on its sign, one
may know it is a branch of the great "Co-op." The headquarters of this
institution are of brick, three hundred and eighteeen by fifty-three feet
in size, three stories high, and built over a large cellar. This building is
crowded with merchandise of every description, and does an extensive
wholesale and retail business. "Teraple Square" is a great attraction for
the tourist. Here are situated the Mormon Temple, Tabernacle and
Assembly Hall. The Tabernacle is imraense in its proportions, the roof
resembling an upturned boat, and is visible from nearly every part of the
city. The Temple is, with the single exception of St. Patrick's Cathedral
in New York, the grandest and costiiest ecclesiastical structure in this
country. It was begun in 1853, completed in 1893 and cost nearly $6,000,000.
It is two hundred feet long, a hundred feet wide, and a hundred feet high,
with four towers, one at each corner, two hundred and twenty feet in height.
The walls are ten feet thick, and the massiveness and solidity of its con
struction insure its defiance of the ravages of time for ages to come. It is
built wholly of snow-white granite from the Cottonwood Canon; and,
standing on one of the loftiest points in the city, can be seen for fifty
miles up and down the valley. Near by is the Bee Hive, once the home of
Brigham Young and opposite the house of President Taylor. The Hot
Springs of Salt Lake are highly medicinal, and the large baths are
resorted to for raany ailments. Within a short radius of the city the
attractions are varied and numerous. Fort Douglas, the Lake, Emigration
City, Bingham, Little and Big Cottonwood Cafions are easily reached.
From Ensign Peak a panoramic view of the surrounding country is had.
One may look from it down the greater part of Utah's length, while near at
hand lie the city and lake. The Fort is also a popular resort, and not only
commands an extensive view, but affords excellent opportunities of study
ing garrison life. The rides, drives and rambles are innumerable. Every
taste is catered to. For those who love grandeur, there are the mountains
with their narrow trails, secluded parks, wild cafions and deep gorges • for
those preferring gentler aspects, the valley, glowing with freshness, affords
continual pleasure ; for those craving the mysterious, there is the lake, large
silent and strange. The hotels are excellent, the climate unexcelled and

70

OVER THE RANGE.

Great

Salt

Lake.

Area,

2,500 square |

miles.

JVlean Depth, 20 feet. 1

Specific

Gravity, 1.107. 1

Length, 126

miles.

Breadth, 45

miles.

days may be passed delightfully in exploring and in studying the wealth of
attractions. There are theatres, reading rooms, good horses, perfect order
and universal cleanliness. Many of the private houses are palatial, and
altogether the city is one of rare beauty and interest.
As far as can be learned, the first mention
in history of the Great Salt Lake was by the
Baron La Houtan, in 1689, who gathered from
the Western Indians some vague notions of its
existence. Capt. Bonneville sent a party from
Green River in 1833 to make its circuit, but they
seem to have given up the enterprise on reach
ing the desert on the northwest, on which they
lost their way, and after weeks of aimless
wandering found themselves in Lower California.
To General John C. Fremont must be given the
credit of first navigating its waters. In 1842, on
his way to Oregon, General Fremont pushed out from the mouth of Webber
River, in a rubber boat, for the nearest island. He found it to be a desolate
rock, fourteen miles in circumference and named it Disappointraent Island.
Captain Stansbury, on a subsequent visit, re-named it Fremont's Island,
which name is retained. In 1850 Captain Stansbury spent three raonths in
raaking a detailed survey of the Lake, its shores and islands. In brief, he
found the west shore a salt-encrusted desert; the north shore composed of
wide salt marshes, overflowed under steady winds from the south; the east
shore possessed good, irrigable lands; the south shore was set with moun
tain ranges standing endways towards the lake, with the grassy valleys.
Spring, Toelle and Jordan, intervening. The principal islands are Ante
lope and Stansbury, rocky ridges ranging north and south, rising abruptly
from the water to a height of three thousand feet. Antelope is the nearest
to Salt Lake City, and is sixteen miles long. Stansbury is twenty miles to
the westward and is twelve miles in length. Both have springs of fresh
water and good range for the stock, with which they are now covered.
Of minor islands there are Fremont, Carrington, Gunnison, Dolphin, Mud,
Egg and Hat, besides several small insular promontories without names.
The first white raan's boat to navigate the lake was probably that of Fre
mont ; Captain Stansbury came next with his exploring boat curiously
named the "Salicornia" ; next in order were the Walker brothers, mer
chants of Salt Lake City, who sailed for some years a lonesome pleasure
yacht. There is now a considerable yachting fleet, which is yearly growing
in size. The lake covers an area of 2,500 square miles. Its mean depth
does not probably exceed twenty feet, while the deepest place between
Antelope and Stansbury is 60 feet. These two principal islands used.to be
accessible from the shore by wagon, but now boats raust be used. From
1847 to 1856 the lake gradually filled five or six feet, and then slowly sub
sided to its old level. In 1863 it began to fill again, and in four or five years
reached a point considerably higher than its present level, perhaps four or
five feet. In the year 1875 a pillar was set up at Black Rock, by which to
raeasure the rise and fall, reserabling a tide, but having no ascertained time.
It is very slight compared what it formerly was. Professor Gilbert of the
Geological Survey, says that twice within recent geological time it has risen

ASSEMBLY HALL, TABERNACLE AND TEMPLE, SALT LAKE CITY,

72 OVER THE RANGE
nearly a thousand feet higher than its present stage, and, of course, covered
vastly more ground. He calls that lake after Captain Bonneville, the origi
nal explorer of these regions, and whom Irving has immortalized. Lake
Bonneville. Causes which learned men assign as producing what they call
a glacial period might easily fill the lake until it extended nearly the whole
length of Utah. During the last high stage. Professor Gilbert says there were
active volcanoes in it. It is generally agreed that its first outbreak was via
Marsh Creek, and the Portneuf into the Snake. At the present height of
that channel (where the Utah and Northern passes out of Cache Valley) it
remained a long time stationary and then seepis to have receded rapidly to
a second stationary point, and so on down to its present stage. There is one
very heavy beach-mark on all the hills surrounding its extended area and on
the hills, which were then islands, and a curious thing is the fact that this
beach-mark varies in altitude from one hundred to three hundred feet,
showing that the earth in this valley is still far from having reached a
stable equilibrium.
The most mysterious thing about this inland sea, aside from its salt-
ness, is the fact that it has no known outlet. A great number of fresh
water streams pour into the lake from all sides, yet the water remains salt
and the lake does not overflow. The saline or solid raatter held in soludon
by the water varies as the lake rises and subsides. In 1842 Freraont
obtained "fourteen pints of very white salt" from five gallons of the water
evaporated over a camp fire. The salt was also very pure, assaying 97.80
fine. In 1850 Dr. L. D. Gale analyzed a sample of it which yielded 20 per
cent, of pure coraraon salt, and about 2 per cent, of foreign salts, chlorides
of lime and magnesia. Sergeant Smart, U. S. A., analyzed a sample in
1877, and found an imperial gallon to contain nearly 24^^ ounces of saline
matter, amounting to fourteen per cent., as follows :

Coraraon salt  11.735
Lime carbonate  .016
Lime sulphate  .073
Epsora salt  1. 123
Chloride of raagnesia  .843

Percentage of solids  13.790
Water  86.210

100.
One hundred grains of the dry
solid matter contained :
Coraraon salt  85.089
Lime carbonate  .ir7
Lime sulphate   531
Epsom salt  8.145
Chloride of magnesia  6.118

100

It compares with other saline
waters about as follows :
Water. Solid.
Atlantic Ocean  96.5  3.5
Mediterranean  96.2 ---. 3.8
Dead Sea  76.  24.
Great Salt Lake--- 86.2  13.8

And in specific gravity, disdlled
water being unity :

Ocean water  1.026
Dead Sea  1.116
Great Salt Lake  iiio7

The solid matter in the water varies between spring and fall, between
dry and wet seasons, and also between different parts of the lake, for nearly
all the fresh water is received from the Wasatch on the east. It is the
opinion of salt makers that an average of the lake at its present stage
would show the presence of 17 per cent, of solid matter.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE,

7.3

Salt Lake has become a fashionable bathing resort. In the long sunny
days of June, July, August and September, the water becomes deliciously
warm, much warmer in fact than the ocean, and this pleasant teraperature is
reached a month earlier and remains a month later. The water is so dense
that one is sustained without effort, and vigorous consdtutions experience
no inconvenience from remaining in it a long time. A raore delightful and
healthy exercise than buffeting its waves when it is a little rough can
hardly be imagined. There is a magnificent bathing resort on the Lake,
near Salt Lake City.

BEE HIVE HOUSE.

Saltaii. The Rio Grande Western Railroad has opened a new
bathing resort at Saltair, on the Great Salt Lake, about eighteen miles from
the city. During the season bathing trains are run alraost hourly from Salt
Lake City to Saltair. These trains enable all overland passengers stopping
off at Salt Lake City to have a bath in the great de\d sea. Here is located
the finest bathing pavillion on the condnent, each of the elegant bath-rooms
is fitted with shower-bath, stationary water-bowls, mirrors, chairs, incan
descent electric lights, etc., making Saltair one of the most attractive water
ing places on the continent. There is a first-class restaurant ; careful male
and female attendants and a silver-cornet band furnishes music day and
evening. Prof. John Muir, the celebrated scientist and litterateur, speaks as
follows concerning a bath in the Great Salt Lake :
"Since the completion of the trans-continental railways this magnifi
cent lake in the heart of the continent has become as accessible as any water
ing-place on either coast, and I am sure that thousands of travelers, sick

74

OVER THE RANGE.

and well, would throng to its shores every summer were its merits but half
known. Saltair is only a few minute's ride from the city and has good hotel
accommodations and then besides the bracing waters, the climate is
delightful. The mountains rise into a cool sky, furrowed with cafions
almost Yosemitic in grandeur and filled with a glorious profusion of flowers
and trees. Lovers of science, lovers of wilderness, lovers of pure rest will
find here more than they ever may hope for.''
Salt Lake to Ogden, From Salt Lake to Ogden the Rio Grande
Western Railroad traverses a narrow plain. On the west lies the Great
Salt Lake, while to the north rise the serrated peaks of the Wasatch Moun
tains. This region is under a high state of cultivation. Farms reach their
golden or green fields over its length and breadth, and little streams run in
bright threads out of the mountain cafions down across the meadows. The
lake is in full view of the traveler most of the way, and is a never-ending
source of interest. The train speeds on, and entering an amphitheatre, set
around with mountains, reaches Ogden, the western terminus of the Denver
& Rio Grande and Union Pacific Railroads. (Population, 32,000. Distance
from Denver, 753 railes. Elevadon, 4,286 feet.)

QUEEN'S CATION.

GRAND CANON, FROM TO-RO-WASP.

SALIDA TO GRAND JUNCTION

VIA MARSHALL PASS.

T Salida the tourist, holding tickets over the line of railroad.
with which this book treats, may have the choice of two
routes to Grand Junction. Either the standard gauge line via
Leadville and Glenwood Springs, as described in the fore
going pages, or the narrow gauge line via Marshall Pass,
Gunnison and Montrose. At Grand Junction these two lines unite and
continue on to Salt Lake. The points of interest enroute are as follows :
Poncha. This little town, five miles west of Salida, is the station for
Poncha Hot Springs and the Junction of the Monarch Branch with the main
line. It is really a suburb of Salida, and is connected with that town by a
beautiful boulevard, which is one of the pleasantest of drives.
Monarch Branch. From Poncha this branch runs in a rich mining
country, its terminus is Monarch, a prosperous mining town, 237 miles from
Denver and 11 miles from Poncha. The intermediate stations on the line
are Maysville and Garfield. Mining is the chief industry.
As a resort for invalids, Poncha Hot Springs
offers superior inducements, especially to those
suffering from chronic troubles. The sick get
well here in less time and with less medicine
than in any other sanitarium outside of Colo
rado. The return to health here is raade radi
cally permanent. A great variety of diseases
are cured by the peculiar earth-heated and
earth-medicated waters and an intelligent sys
tem of baths. The effect on the sick is wonder
fully beneficial, corollating a specific energy with
the climate and pure atmosphere, and the very feeble are enabled to
tolerate much hotter baths than in damper or lower altitudes, and secure
correspondingly greater results. The analysis of the Poncha Hot Springs
corresponds alraost exactly with the waters of the Hot Springs in Arkansas.
The teraperature of the various Arkansas Hot Springs varies from go to
175°, that of the Poncha Springs varies frora 90 to 185° Fahrenheit. The
water is as clear as crystal and perfectly odorless and tasteless. It
quenches thirst whether cold or hot, and does not disturb the stomach in
any raanner. There are one hundred oi these Hot Springs, all flowing from a
great field of tzifa, the natural precipitation of ages, loss of temperature
from contact with the atmosphere and chemically the sarae as the tufa of
the Arkansas Hot Springs. The springs have a capacity large enough to
bathe 40,000 persons daily. The following is an analysis of the Poncha Hot
Springs : 76

Poncha Springs,
Hot Springs,
Watering Place,
and Health Resort.
Distance from Denver,
221 niles.
Elevation, 7,480 feet.

1 1

\»' 11/

"t^'^i

78 OVER THE RANGE.

Silicic Acid  32.73
Sesqui-oxide of Iron  1.27
Alumina  5-20
Lime  20.00
Magnesia  .74
Cholerine  .06
Carbonic Acid Gas  22.50

Organic Matter  6.24
Water  1.72
Sulphuric Acid  4.46
Potash  - 2.08
Soda  i.oo
Iodine  1.50
Bromine  1.50

The waters are said to be a sure cure for rheumatism and all blood and
skin diseases, and catarrhal affections.
Poncha Pass. After leaving Poncha Station the railroad begins to
climb the mountains, and raakes its entry into Marshall Pass by way or
Poncha Pass. As the train raakes a long curve around the side of a great
hill, about two miles above the town of Poncha, the tourist can see the Hot
Springs on the side of the opposite hill to the left, a deep gorge intervening,
at the bottom of which flows a clear mountain stream. The scenery here is
wild and beautiful, and the interest increases with each mile of the ascent.
Mears Junction. This little station, 227 miles from Denver, in the
heart of the hills, is the junction of the San Luis Valley branch with the
main line, and from this point the real ascent of Marshall Pass begins.
San Luis Valley Branch. This branch of the Denver & Rio
Grande extends from Mears Junction to Alamosa where it connects with
the line coming over Veta Pass, to Silverton and to Creede, as described
elsewhere in this volume. Enroute the first station of importance is
Villa Grove, This town is situated at the northern extremity of
the great San Luis Valley, and is surrounded by a rich agricultural country.
There are many good mines of gold, silver and coal in the near vicinity.
Eight miles from Villa Grove on the Orient Branch, is located the famous
Orient Iron mine, from which is annually produced about 60,000 tons of a
fine quality of iron ore. This ore is smelted and forraed into all kinds of
commercial iron and steel at the works of the Colorado Fuel & Iron Com
pany located at Bessemer, near Pueblo. (Population, 500. Distance from
Denver, 247 miles. Elevation, 7,971 feet.)
Hot Springs. Five railes beyond Villa Grove is situated a group of
hot springs of great medicinal value. There are so raany of these springs
in Colorado that all of thera have never been fully developed, and this par
ticular group of springs has not been given the attendon they really deserve.
For a distance of fifty-two miles this branch extends through the grand
San Luis valley in an absolutely straight line with a gradual descent
towards the south. Moffat, Garrison and Mosca are the principal stadons
enroute and are all towns of considerable importance as entrepots for this
wonderful agricultural valley. There are a number of small lakes in the
valley, insuring water in abundant quantities for irrigating purposes and
constituting a home for myriads of wild fowl. Hunters from Denver,
Pueblo, Leadville, Salida and Alamosa, and in fact from all parts of the
state visit this valley each season. Alamosa the end of this division will be
found fully described in another part of this book.
After leaving Mears Stadon on the raain line the road advances by means
of a series of curves absolutely bewildering, following the convolutions of the
gulches. As the altitude grows greater, the view becomes less obstructed by
mountain sides, and the eye roams over miles of cone-shaped summits.
The timberless tops of towering ranges show him that he is among the heights

8o

OVER THE RANGE.

and in a region familiar with the clouds. Then
he beholds, stretching away to the left, the most
perfect of all the Sierras. The sunlight falls
with a white, transfiguring radiance upon the
snow-crowned spires of the Sangre de Cristo
Range. Their sharp and dazzling pyramids,
which near at hand are clearly defined, extend
to the southward until cloud, and sky and snowy
peak comraingle and forra a vague and bewil
dering vision. To the right, towers the fire
scarred front of old Ouray, glooray and grand, solitary and forbidding.
Ouray holds the pass, standing sentinel at the rocky gateway to the

Marshall Pass.
Railroading
Among tlie Clouds.
A Marvel
of Engineering Skill.
Elevation, 10,856 feet.

CRESTED BUTTE MOUNTAIN AND LAKE.

fertile Gunnison. Slowly the steeps are conquered until at last the train
halts at the station, upon the Summit of Marshall Pass. The awful silence
of the storm-tossed granite ocean lies beneath. The traveler looks down
upon four lines of road, terrace beyond terrace, the last so far below as to
be quite indistinct to view. These are only loops of the almost spiral path
way of descent. Wonder at the triuraphs'of engineering skill is strangely
mingled with the feelings of awe and admiration at the stupendous gran
deur of the scene.
Marshall Pass Station. Is directly on the summit of the pass,
and the track is enclosed by a' large snow shed. Fine views can be
obtained, however, from the loop holes, from either end of the shed or
from the observatory, erected above the station. The elevation, is 10,856

82 OVER THE RANGE.
feet .above the sea. The descent begins, and the road winds around
projecdng headlands, on the verge of vast precipices, threads dark recesses
where patches of light fall through leafy canopies upon the green slopes,
follows the windings of the Tomichi, and later courses through culdvated
meadows dotted with hay-stacks and sraall ranch houses. As the train rolls
swiftly on, a backward glance gives the traveler a comprehensive idea of
the vast heights overcome in the passage. The stations between Marshall
Pass and Gunnison are as follows: Hilden, Shawano, Chester, Buxton,
Sargent, Elko, Crookton, Doyle, Bonita, Parlin and Mounds. These sta
tions are all small but situated in the midst of beautiful scenery.
The Waunita Hot Springs are situated eight miles from Parlin.
The waters have long been faraous for their great medicinal qualities,
and they have been frequented by those suffering from ill health with the
most surprising and gratifying results. Good accommodations have been
provided for guests. The scenery surrounding the Springs is unsurpassed,
and no pleasanter place can be found by the searcher after health or
pleasure. Tomichi Meadows. Beyond Parlin the line crosses a wide
expanse of natural meadow land, through which meanders the beautiful
Tomichi Creek. Gunnison is the county seat of Gunnison
County, and is situated on the Gunnison River.
From its central position in the great Gunnison
Valley, it must of necessity always be the dis
tributing point ; and, therefore, its growth is
assured as being coincident with that of the
country in which it is situated. From Gunnison
extends a branch of the Denver & Rio Grande
Railroad up to Crested Butte, situated in the
heart of a rich gold and silver mining country,
and being the centre of the wonderful anthracite coal measures of the state.
The town is beautifully situated and is in such close proximity to some of
the most attractive scenery in the Rocky Mountains, that it has become a
favorite objective point with tourists. The Gunnison River and its many
confluent trout brooks offer fine sport for the fisherman, and the hills
abound in game. The La Veta Hotel, the eating station for passengers,
is one of the most magnificent in Colorado, having been erected at an
expense of §225,000. It is elegantly furnished, and offers first class accora-
modations for the tourists who may wish to spend a few days or weeks
here, hunting and fishing.
Crested Butte Branch. From Gunnison the Crested Butte
branch of the road extends to the northwest to Crested Butte, a distance of
twenty-eight miles. The line extends up the Gunnison River, which
swarms with trout and is an extremely picturesque stream. The Elk
Mountains are in plain view, and add grandeur to the scene. The interven
ing stations are Alraont, Jack's Cabin, and Glaciers.
Crested Butte. This pretty village is situated most delightfully
among the mountains, one castellated peak directly opposite the town
conferring the narae it bears. This is the centre of the most remarkable
coal region yet discovered in Colorado, and abounding also in rich mines of

.GUNNISON.
Population, 2,500.
Distance from Denver,
290 miles.
Elevation, 7,683 feet.
Eating Station.

84 OVER THE RANGE.
geld and silver. At Crested Butte, just back of the village, is found
abundant measures of exceedingly bituminous coal, which is mined largely
and made into coke. Four miles north of the town anthracite coal, equal
in every respect to the best found in Pennsylvania, is taken from the top of
a mountain, and shipped all over Colorado and Utah. The fishing and
hunting in the mountain streams, and over the wooded hills, furnish abun
dant sport for the residents and tourists, and the rides and drives afford
an almost infinite variety. (Population, 1,200. Distance from Denver,
318 miles. Elevation, 8,878 feet.)
Anthracite. Four miles beyond Crested Butte. The present ter
minus of this branch, and as its name indicates the shipping point for the
anthracite coal mined in the vicinity.
Sapinero stands at the eastern entrance to the Black Caiion, and is
beautifully situated on the banks of the Gunnison River. The town was
naraed after a sub-chief araong the Utes, who was regarded by the whites
as a raan of unusual intellectual and executive ability. In addition to com
manding the entrance to the canon, Sapinero- is the junctional point for
the Lake City extension of the line, and from whence stages run to the new
gold region of Goose Creek. (Population, 100. Distance from Denver, 316
miles. Elevation, 7,255 feet.)
The Goose Creek Gold Mining district is located on Goose, Wild
Cat, and Cebolla Creeks, and bids fair to outrival many of the older gold
camps. Dubois and Spencer are the principal towns, and present indica
tions for a new Leadville or Creede are flattering to say the least.
I>ake City Branch. This extension is thirty-six railes in length,
and has its terminus at Lake City. The line turns to the left about a mile
west of Sapinero, and passes through a remarkable canon en route.
Lake Fork Canon. This canon is a most attractive bit of scenery.
It is noted for its narrowness, and the height and grandeur of its walls.
For thirteen miles the railroad winds through this tortuous chasm, the walls
rising on each hand to a height varying from eight hundred to thirteen
hundred feet. The river claims the right of way but the railroad also-
asserts its rights, and by the exercise of engineering skill has forced a
passage. In many, places the solid wall of granite has been blasted away,
and from the fallen blocks a solid embankment constructed, upon which
the rails have been laid. The Lake Fork is a rapid and tumultuous stream,
abounding in rapids and presenting a most interesting, varied and exhil
arating panorama to the eye. Eraerging from the canon and gaining a
greater altitude, the view is one of magnificent extent and grandeur.
Northward the peaks of the Elk Range form a long line of well-separated
summits. Northeastward, the vista between nearer hills is filled with the
clustered heights of the Continential Divide in the neighborhood of' the
Mount of the Holy Cross. Just below them confused elevations show
where Marshall Pass carries its lofty avenue, and to the southward of
that stretches the splendid, snow triramed array of the Sangre de Christo.
The enterprising and thriving mining town of Lake City stands in a little
park at the junction of the Lake Fork of the Gunnison River with Hensen
Creek, both typical mountain streams. A substantial and pretty town has
been established. Mines of marvelous value surround the town, and the
advent of the railroad has given new life and energy to all the com-

GATE OF LADORE.

86

OVER THE RANGE.

LAKE CITV.
Picturesque Mining
Town.
Population, i.soo.
Distance from Denver,
352 miles.
Elevation, 8,604 leet.

mercial and speculative projects of the people.
The development of her mining resources has
been retarded during the past by the lack
of transportation facilities, but this has only
caused its stores of wealth to be held in
abeyance for awhile before their coinage.
Many another district a few years ago thought
equally profitless has risen to becorae the scene
of steady dividend making labor through the
perfection of processes. It will not be long
before, by like means, the reviving of Lake City's raines will occur, and
enable her to catch up with her more fortunate sisters in the wide circle of the
San Juan silver region. The romantic surroundings of this pretty town,—
the lovely lakes from which it takes its characteristic name, the grand moun
tains and the grassy parks— have made it a favorite for the lovers of nature
in the past, and will still attract thera in the future. This is a paradise for a
sportsman. Over these rolling uplands, among the aspen groves, upon the
foot hills and along the willow-bordered creek deer now throng, and even
an occasional elk and antelope are to be seen. In the rocky fastnesses the
bear and panthe_r find refuge, and every little park is enlivened by the
flitting forms of tiraid hares and the whirring escape of the grouse disturbed
by our passing.

BLACK CANON
OF THE
GUNNISON.
Height of Walls,
2,500 feet.

Length of Canon,
14 miles.

Beyond Gunnison, the railway traverses the
valley of the same name, following the river
closely, and encountering nothing but meadows
and low, grayish cliffs. The Gunnison River
abounds in fish, and is a great resort for the
disciples of Isaac Walton. Soon, however, the
channel, which the stream has worn, becomes
narrower. The cliffs grow higher and steeper,
the vegetation is less abundant, and suddenly the
sunlight is cut off by broken summits, and
directly after leaving Sapinero, where the ob
servation car is attached, the Black Cafion holds
us fast in its embrace. This gorge is grander, deeper, darker, and yet more
beautiful than the one we have so lately penetrated. It is twice as long,
has raore verdure, and, although the walls are dark-hued enough to
give the place its name, still they are of red standstone in many places, and
from their crevices and on their tops, shrubs, cedars and pinons grow in
rich abundance. The river has a deep, seagreen color, and is followed to
Cimarron Creek, up which the road continues, still through rocky depths, to
open country beyond. The Black Canon never tires, never becomes com
monplace. Chippeta Fall starts from a dizzy height, is dashed into frag
ments by lower terraces, and, tossed by the winds, reaches the river in fine
white spray; there another cataract leaps clear of the walls, and thunders
unbroken upon the ground beside us. In the cliffs are smaller streams,
which trickle down and are lost in the river below. At times the canon
narrows, and is full of sharp curves, but again has long wide stretches, which
enable one to study the steep crags that lower heavenward two or three
thousand feet.

APPROACH TO THE BUCK CANON

88

OVER THE RANGE.

Currecanti Needle, the most abrupt and isolated of these pinnacles,
has all the grace and symmetry of a Cleopatra obelisk. It is red-hued from
point to base, and stands like a grim sentinel, watchful of the canon's
solitudes. At the junction of the Gunnison and the Cimarron a bridge
spans the gorge, from which the beauties of the canon are seen at their
best. Sombre shades prevail ; the stream fills the space with its heavy
roar and the sunlight falls upon the topmost pines, but never reaches down
the dark red walls. Huge bowlders lie scattered about ; fitful winds sweep
down the deep clefts ; Nature has created everthing on a grand scale ;
detail is supplanted by magnificence, and the place is one appealing to our
deepest feelings. It greets us as a thing of beauty, and will remain in our
meraory a joy forever. Long ago the Indians of this region built their coun-

-A _^^^^ it ^?^l^

TROUT FISHING

:-:\2:;;^^^©

ON THE CIMARRON.

-¦ --_ .---S:C^^^

cil fires here. By secret paths, always guarded, they gained these fastnes
ses, and held their grave and somber meetings. The firelight danced
across their swarthy faces to the cliffs encircling them. The red glow lit up
with Rembrandt tints the massive walls, the surging streams and clinging
vines. They may not have known the place had beauties, but they realized
its isolation, and fearing nothing in their safe retreat, spoke boldly of their
plans. Cimarron . Isa most attractive little station, nestled among the gulches
on the banks of the sparkling Cimarron Creek. Here is a meal station,
and here the observation car is detached. Sportsmen make headquarters
at Cimarron, for the hills are full of game and the streams abound in
trout. (Population, 200. Distance from Denver, 311 inii««L Elevation.
6,go6 feet.)
Cimarron Canon. Where Cimarron Creek empties into the Gun
nison through a short canon the road leaves Black Canon, which continues

CURRECANTI NEEDLE, BLACK CANOrt.

go

OVER THE RANGE.

on with the larger stream, heightening in awfulness. Down there the faL
of the river increases so rapidly that to follow it to the end, the railroad
would emerge a thousand feet below the valley which it seeks, if a practic
able grade should be kept, so the engineers have turned the road out to the
valley through Cimarron Cafion, and in four or five miles a verdureless
expanse is reached, and for hours the road traverses a region which is
picturesque in its poverty and desolation ; and in the suraraer the distant
and sun-heated buttes, with the arid plains between, remind the traveler of
the Wastes of Arabia Petra.

A UTE COUNCIL FIRE.

Cedar Divide is reached directly after emerging from Ciraarron
Canon. From here the Uncorapahgre Valley, its river, and the distant,
picturesque peaks of the San Juan are within full sight of the traveler.
Descending to the valley and following the river past Montrose, the
Gunnison is again encountered at Delta.
The town of Montrose can take just pride in the grandeur of its
mountain view. Situated in the Uncorapahgre Valley, Montrose is almost

CHIPETA FALLS IW THE BUCK CANON.

92 OVER THE RANGE.

MONTROSE.
Population, 2,000.
Distance from Denver,
353 miles.
Elevation, s>8ii feet.

surrounded by mountains. The San Juan Moun
tains tower into the heavens to the south, cap
tained by Mounts Sneffles and Uncompahgre,
both over fourteen thousand feet high. Along
the western horizon trend the Uncompahgre
Peaks to where the Dolores joins the Grand
River, a distance of over one hundred and fifty
miles. The Uncompahgre Valley is fertile, and
along the branch of the Denver & Rio Grande
Railroad frora Montrose to Ouray, is under high state of cultivation. The
cereals, fruit and vegetables, together with forage plants, flourish here in
the greatest luxuriance. Here was the Indian reservation, and here lived
Ouray, the friend of the white marw It is only a few years since th good
chief died, and his farm and buildings are still pointed out to the traveler,
on the line to the town of Ouray, about two miles south of Montrose. The
land in the valley surrounding Montrose is gradually being brought under
cultivation. Irrigating canals have been constructed, and the rich soil
responds generously to the demands of the farmer. Mining and pastoral
industries also contribute greatly to the success of Montrose. There can
be found excellent hunting and fishing in the vicinity.
Delta is twenty-one miles from Montrose, and is the county seat of
Delta County. It is situated in the delta formed by the junction of the
Uncompahgre and the Gunnison Rivers. The town is in a fine agricultural
region and is supported by farming, pastoral and mining industries. It is
destined to become, in time, a considerable business centre. (Population,
400. Distance from Denver, 374 miles. Elevation, 4,980 feet.)
Between Delta and Grand Junction there are a number of small sta
tions which will not interest the traveler, but the scenery through which the
railroad passes (while it is not especially startling) will interest him. After
passing Delta the road crosses the Uncompahgre and follows the west bank
of the Gunnison (the same river that was left at Cimarron, forty-four railes
behind us). In about five miles we cross to the east bank of the Gunnison
and roll along beneath cliffs which tower on our right above the train,
leaving but little room between rocks and river. At Bridgeport the cars
plunge into the Bridgeport Tunnel, 2,256 feet in length, one of the longest
tunnels on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. Shortly an iron bridge,
over a fine streara (the Grand River) is passed, and we find ourselves at th'e
junction of the Gunnison with the Grand River; and of the two main lines
of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad with the Rio Grande Western Rail
way

PUEBLO TO ALAMOSA.

ROM Pueblo to Cuchara Junction, a distance of 50 miles, the
^^^^^ railroad extends to the southward across the plains which
\^M 5 stretch in one vast unbroken expanse to the eastern horizon,
7^^^^ while to the west lies the Greenhorn Range with its interven
ing foothills.
Spanish Peaks. To the south rise the famed Spanish Peaks,
springing directiy from the plains, remarkable for their syraraetry of out
line, and reaching an altitude respectively of 13,620 and 12,720 feet. The
Indians, with a touch of instinctive poetry, named these beautifully moun
tains " Wahatoya," or twin breasts. As a matter of orthographical interest,
the reader raay be pleased to know that the Indian spelling of the word
is as follows : '' Huacjatollas ! "
Trinidad Branch. Frora Cuchara Junction, one line of the road
extends in a southern direction to Trinidad, the largest city in Southern
Colorado and the centre of the faraous coal raeasures of El Moro.
This branch of the road does not pass directly through grand scenery,
as it extends to the southward across the plains, and to the east of the moun
tains; but the line is of great commercial importance, as by its connections
at Trinidad it affords a direct through route to the Gulf of Mexico. Locally,
also, it is of especial importance as El Moro and Trinidad are in the heart
of one of the greatest coal regions in the west, and the agricultural and
pastoral industries of the plains are of large proportions. From Cuchara
Junction the stations occur in the following order: Tuna, Rouse Junction,
Santa Clara, Boaz, Apishapa, Barnes, Chicosa and El Moro.
El Moro is worthy of special raention because of its extensive coal
mines and coking ovens; the latter are 250 in number, and the greatest in
the State. The town derives its narae from the great butte (El Moro) which
towers above it, presenting a very striking object to the view. (Population, ~
250. Distance from Denver, 206 miles. Elevation, 5,879 feet.)
This is the metropolis of southeastern Colo
rado, and the terminus of this branch of the Den
ver & Rio Grande Railroad. Trinidad is the
trade and raoney centre for an immense territory,
including portions of northern Texas, southern
Colorado and northern New Mexico. In natural
resources, Trinidad is exceedingly rich, being the
centre of the largest coal belt in the world, and the
supply depot for most of the coke used in the
Great West. In addition to coal and coke in the
''^^'~^^^^~~~ immediate vicinity, iron exists in unlimited quanti
ties. The supply of gypsum, granite, alum, fire-clay, silica, grit or grind
stone, limestone and the finest of building stone is absolutely inexhaustible,
Trinidad, from the natural deposit alone, must of necessity become a
V3

TRINIDAD.
Commercial and Hanu-
facturing City.
Population, 8,000.
Elevation,
5,994 feet.
Distance from Denver,
210 miles.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 95
manufacturing centre of vast importance, and has already taken advanced
steps in this regard. A $200,000 rolling mill is now in operation. The
manufacture of cement, mineral paint, lime, and plaster of paris, are all
iraportant industries, while the production of building brick is very large in
its proportions. Fire-brick and silica brick will soon be an additional
industry. In and around Trinidad no less than three thousand laborers are
now employed, and this large and daily increasing number of men spend
their money in Trinidad. The city has water-works, gas-works, electric
light, street cars, and other metropolitan iraproveraents. The schools and
churches are very superior, while the business houses and residences are a
credit to the city. Its elevation above the level of the sea insures a delight
ful climate, free from malaria and other poisons common to lower altitudes,
while the scenic surroundings are unsurpassed, Raton Peak and the
distant range adding their grandeur to the beauty of the scene. Trinidad is
a railroad centre, with three great trunk lines already in operation, with
three raore raoving toward it ; is the most iraportant wool centre in Colorado,
being the orignal market for 3,000,000 pounds, and is also a great cattle
centre and, for that reason, the largest hide and pelt-receiving point in the
State. Resuming the journey to Alamosa, the tourist returns to
Cuchara Junction. A sraall town at the junction of the New
Mexico and Trinidad extensions of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad.
The supporting industries are pastoral and agricultural pursuits. (Popula
tion, 200. Distance from Denver i6g miles. Elevation, 5,942 feet.)
"Walsenhurg. A flourishing town doing a large business, both at
home and abroad. It is surrounded by a fine pastoral country, and also
derives revenue frora agriculture. Coal is mined near here in large quan
tities. (Population, 1,000. Distance frora Denver, 176 railes. Elevation,
6,189 feet.)
La Veta. A prosperous village surrounded by a pastoral country
and in the midst of most beautiful scenery, being near the foothills of La
Veta Mountain and the famous pass known by the sarae name. The
Spanish Peaks are also in plain view to the east. (Population, 600. Dis
tance from Denver, 191 miles. Elevation, 7,024 feet.)
The ascent of this famous pass is one of the
great engineering achievements of the Denver &
Rio Grande Railroad. The line follows the
ravine formed by a little stream. La Veta Moun
tain rising to the right. At the head of this
gulch is the wonderful " Mule-Shoe Curve," the
sharpest curve of the kind known in railroad
engineering. In the centre of the bend is a
bridge, and the sparkling waters of the moun
tain stream can be seen flashing and foaming in

VETA PASS.
Elevation, 9,393 *eet.
Haximum Grade, 211
feet to the mile.
Distance Across Pass,
13 miles.

their rocky bed below. Standing on the rear platform of the car as the train
rounds the curve, the tourist can see the fireman and engineer attending to
their duties. From this point the ascent ot Dump Mountain begins, rocks and
precipitous escarpments of shaley soil to the right and perpendicular cliffs
and chasms to the left. The ascent is slowly made, two great Mogul engines
urging their iron sinews to the giant task. The view to the eastward is one
of great extent and magnificence. The plains stretch onward to the dim

96

OVER THE RANGE

CLIMBING THE MOUNTAINS AT VETA PASS.

horizon line like a gently undulating ocean, from which rise the twin cones
of Wahatoya, strangely fascinating in their symmetrical beauty. At the
sumrait of the pass the railroad reaches an elevation of 9,393 feet above the
sea. Veta Mountain is to the right, as the ascent of the pass is made, and
rises with smooth sides and splintered pinnacles to a height of 11,176 feet
above the sea. The stupendous proportions of this mountain, the illimita
ble expanse of the plains, the symmetrical cones of the Spanish Peaks
present a picture upon which it is a never-ceasing delight for the eye to
dwell. The train rolls steadily forward on its winding course, and at last
teaches the apex, glides into the timber and halts at the handsome stone
station over 9,000 feet above the level of the distant sea. The downward

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 97
joumey is past Sierra Bianca and old Fort Garland and through that
pastoral and picturesque valley known as San Luis Park.
Placer. At Placer, one can say that the descent of Veta Pass has
been accomplished, although it is still down grade as far as Alamosa. This
little town is situated on the eastern border of the San Luis Valley and at
the western extremity of La Veta Pass. Good hunting and fishing can be
found in the neighboring foothills. The tributary industries are agriculture
and stock raising. (Population, 75. Distance frora Denver, 212 railes.
Elevation, 8,410 feet.)
Garland. This town was formerly known as Fort Garland, and was
a United States military post. Sierra Bianca, elevation, 14,483 feet, the
highest mountain in the United States with one exception, is seventeen miles
distant. Good trout fishing and shooting can be found in the adjacent foot
hills. Garland's tributary industries are agriculture and stock raising.
(Population, 200. Distance from Denver, 226 miles. Elevation, 7,936 feet.)
' Sierra Bianca is the monarch of the Rocky

SIERRA BLANCA
Highest Mountain
of
The Rocky Range.
Elevation,
¦4,483 feet.

Range, and is characterized by the peculiarity
of a triple peak. The mountain rises directly
from the plain to the stupendous height of
14,483 feet, over two miles and three-fifths of
sheer ascent. A magnificent view of this moun
tain is obtained frora the cars as soon as the
descent from Veta Pass into the San Luis
Valley has been made. Surely it is worth a
journey across the continent to obtain a view of such a mountain !
Although a part of the range, it stands at the head of the valley, like a
monarch taking precedence of a lordly retinue. Two-thirds of its height is
above timber-line, bare and desolate, and except for a month or two of mid
summer, dazzling white with snow, while in its abysmal gorges it holds
eternal reservoirs of ice.
"Oil, sacred mount -witli Icingly crest
Tlirough tideless etiierreaciiiDg,
Tlie eartii world Icneels to liear tiie prayer
Tiiy dusky slopes are teacliing.
Witii mystic glow on sunset eyes
AU trembling lie tliy blood-red leaves,
' Tiieir sillcen veins witli gold inwrouglit.
Oil, glorious is tliy world-wide thouglit."
The lower slopes of the mountain are clad in vast forests of pine and
hemlock, while its grand triad of gray granite peaks lift into the sky their
sharp pyramidal pinnacles, splintered .and furrowed by the storm-com
pelling and omnipotent hand of the Almighty. To the north and south, for
a distance of nearly two hundred miles, it is flanked by the serrated crests
of the Sangre de Cristo Range, the whole forming a panoraraa of unex-
arapled grandeur and beauty.
San Luis Park. This great and fertile valley is located in Southern
Colorado, bordering New Mexico, and is drained by the Rio Grande, one
of the largest of Colorado's rivers, into which flows frora the lofty mountain
ranges surrounding the park, almost numberless little mountain strearas.
This park, which was once the bottora of a vast mountain lake, contains
fully 10,000 square miles— equal to the entire area of Massachusetts. The

SIERRA BUNCA— THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN COLORADO.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 99
soil is alluvial, from six to fifteen feet deep, and the surface is naturally
well adapted for irrigation, which the rivers and streams in the park are
abundantly capable of providing. The park, or valley, as it is frequently
called, is from 7,000 to 7,300 feet above sea level. This elevation insures a
light, pure atmosphere, free from all malarial conditions, and especially
favorable for those disposed to pulraonary affections. The climate is cool
in the sumraer, and not severe in the winter — scarcely ever more than an
occasional snowfall of two or three inches in the valley. Too much in praise
of the attractions and beauty of the climate of the San Luis Valley cannot
be said. The grand chain of mountains, which entirely surround the park,
present scenery unsurpassed in the world. Spring wheat will yield from
thirty to fifty bushels to the acre, oats from fifty to seventy-five bushels, peas
from thirty to forty bushels, potatoes from two hundred to three hundred
bushels to the acre ; beans, cabbage, all kinds of root crops, are unexcelled
anywhere. Hops do well ; tomatoes and melons are grown, but with some
effort. Corn, in consequence of the elevation, except for garden purposes,
does not pay. Alfalfa — the clover of the mountains — does well, yielding
from four to six tons in two cuttings. Common red clover, timothy and
red top do well. The native grasses, by irrigation, yield two tons per acre.
All kinds of small fruit do exceedingly well. Grapes are untried, but it is
believed they .will succeed. Apples and cherries do well, plums and pears
may, but peaches cannot be grown. Surrounding the valley, embracing
the foot-hills and lower mountain ranges, is a range covering millions of
acres, where cattle, horses and sheep can- feed for more than nine months
in the year. The grasses are more abundant and nutritious than upon the
lower elevations. The stock so grazed upon these free ranges in the sum
mer and fed upon the home farms in the valley in the winter, can be
handled without hazard, and with certainty of profitable return to the
farmer and large ranchmen. This is one of the raost considerable towns
of the San Luis Valley. It is situated on the
west bank of the Rio Grande river, and at the
junction of the New Mexico, San Luis and Creede
branches of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad.
The resources of the San Luis ^'alley have been
described above, and it goes without saying that
these resources are naturally tributary to the
welfare of Alamosa.
The town is well supplied with stores of all
kinds, some of which carry large stocks of goods.

ALAMOSA.
Junctional City.
Eating Station.
Population, 1,500.
Distance From Denver,
Via Veta Pass, 250 IVIiles,
Via Salida, 302 Hiles.
Elevation, 7,546 feet.

Great quantities of hay and grain, and farm produce generally, are shipped
from this station, which also commands a large local trade. Within a short
distance of the town a natural gas supply has been discovered, which only
needs adequate development to make it an element of great prosperity to
the city. There are also a large number of ever-flowing artesian wells near
the city, which insure a never-failing source of pure water. The eating
house at Alaraoso, while unpretentious in its exterior, furnishes one of the
best meals to be obtained anywhere, and has a wide-spread and well-de
served reputation. The scenery surrounding the town is grand, and the
near proximity of the river makes it a favorite resort for sportsmen.
Creede Branch. From Alamosa a branch of the Denver & Rio

IGO

OVER THE RANGE

SUMMIT OF VETA MOUNTAIN.
Grande extends up the valley a distance of seventy miles to the great hot
springs at Wagon Wheel Gap, and the famous gold and silver mining camp
of Creede. The line passes through an exceedingly fertile agricultural
country lying on both sides of the Rio Grande, and irrigated by the great
canals taken out from the river. In the proper season of the year thousands
of acres of wheat and oats, alfalfa and other farm produce can be seen
growing in the greatest luxuriance on both sides of the track.
Monte Vista. This flourishing town is an example of rapid growth
and a proof of the self-sustaining character of the country. The surround
ing country is full of coal, oil and gas. Very rich mines are being devel
oped (ore running from §1,000 to §2,000 per ton) in the mountains southwest
of Monte Vista, which is located in the midst of 300,000 acres of the richest
irrigable land with abundance of water to supply it. Monte Vista is a new,
growing, enterprising prohibition town, and has a superior class of citizens.
It is rapidly becoming an extra desirable residence locality. It has a first
class roller process flouring mill, fifteen stores, two banks, a planing mill,

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. loi
three liamber yards, three weekly papers, three livery stables, large public
library, an §8,000 school-house, a §75,000 hotel, seven church organizations,
a secular Sunday society, secret societies, military company, cornet band,
etc. In the vicinity is one farm of 7,000 and another of 4,000 acres. The
Colorado Home for Disabled Volunteer Soldiers and Sailors is located here.
Some two hundred veterans occupy the magnificent building and surround
ing cottages, enjoying, in their declining years, a well earned respite from
the turmoil of war. (Population, 1,200. Distance from Denver, 267 miles.
Elevation, 7,665 feet.)
Del Norte. This is the oldest town in what is known as the San Juan
country, and is the county seat of Rio Grande county. The town site was
surveyed in 1872, though the town company was formed in 1871. The town
is so situated as to be on the line between the agricultural and mining
sections. To the north and east of the town are the rich and rapidly settling
agricultural and pastoral lands of the San Luis Valley, to the south and
west are the great mines of San Juan. Del Norte is beautifully situated in
a basin at the foot of the mountains, sheltered trom the blasts of winter and
having the most delightful weather in summer. The Rio Grande flows
through the edge of the Del Norte town site, and offers to manufac
turing interests exceptionally fine water power. Del Norte has some
excellent business and dwelling houses, fine public school buildings, two
good church buildings — above the average, the Presbyterian College of the
Southwest (a staunch educational institution), a fine flouring mill of the
latest roller process, a large brewery using home grown barley, two banks,
court house costing §30,000, the United States land office, where all business
regarding lands in this district must be transacted, and countless other
enterprises that cannot be mentioned here. On Lookout Mountain, 600 feet
above the town, is mounted a large telescope, to be used in connection with
the Presbyterian College of the Southwest. The view from the Lookout
observatory is grand in the extreme. The streets of Del Norte are wide,
and the town is noted for its growth of trees — mostly cottonwoods. Water
for irrigating purpdses is supplied by means of a main canal from the Rio
Grande, with laterals over the town site along the sides of streets. The
distance frora Del Norte to the following points is : To Alaraosa, 30 miles ;
to Saguache, 35 miles; to Villa Grove, 45 miles; to Monte Vista, 15 miles;
to Veteran, 18 miles; to Suramitville, 27 miles ; to Wagon Wheel Gap, 30
miles ; to Creede, 40 miles ; to Shaw's Springs, 6 miles ; to Carnero, 25
miles. Del Norte is certainly a very attractive town. (Population, 1,200.
Distance from Denver, 281 miles. Elevation, 7,880 feet.) From Del Norte
the line follows the river amidst most attractive scenery. South Fork is a
small station on the river, and is a favorite stopping place for anglers.
The hot springs at Wagon Wheel Gap, to
gether with the magnificence of the scenery,
make it one of the most attractive pleasure
resorts in Colorado. As the Gap is approached
the valley narrows until the river is hemmed in
between massive walls of solid rock, that rise
to such a height on either side as to throw the
passage into a twilight shadow. The river
rushes roaring down over gleaming gravel or

Wagon Wheel Gap
Hot Springs.
Distance from Denver, 3n
Miles.
Elevation, 8,449 feet.

WAGON WHEEL GAP.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

103

UP THE RIO GRANDE.

precipitous ledges. Progressing, the scene becomes wilder and more
romantic, until at last the waters of the Rio Grande pour through a cleft in
the rocks just wide enough to allow the construction
of a road at the river's edge. On the right, as one
enters, tower cliffs to a tremend
ous height, suggestive in their
appearance of the palisades on
the Hudson. On the left rises
the round shoulder of a mass
ive mountain. The vast wall
is unbroken for more than half
a -mile, its crest presenting an
alraost unserrated sky line.
Once through the gap the
traveler, looking to the south,
sees a valley encroached upon
and surrounded by hills. Here
is the old stage station, a primi
tive and picturesque structure
of hewn logs and adobe, one
story in height, facing the
south, and made cool and in
viting by wide-roofed verandas
extending along its entire front.
Not a hundred feet away rolls the Rio Grande swarming with trout. A
drive of a mile along a winding road, each turn in which reveals new scenic
beauties, brings the tourist to the faraous springs. The medicinal qualities
of the waters, both of the cold and hot springs, have been thoroughly tested
and proved to be of a very superior quality. Lieutenant Wheeler, U. S. A.,
gives the following analysis of these springs : No. i has a temperature of
about 150° Fahrenheit, is bubbling continually, and is about eight feet wide
by twelve feet long; No. 2 is a small bubbling spring, cold, and -about one
foot in diaraeter, and gives out a strong odor of sulphuretted hydrogen ;
No. 3 is situated sorae distance from Nos. i and 2, at the foot of a hill, it
bubbles continually and is of a temperature of 140° Fahrenheit. This spring
is about three feet wide and the sarae in length ; it is called the Soda
Spring. In one thousand parts of the water of the springs of Wagon Wheel
Gap are contained parts as follows : No. I, No, 2. No. J.
Sodiura Carbonate  69.42
Lithium Carbonate  Trace.
Calcium Carbonate  14.08
Magnesium Carbonate  10.91
Potassium Sulphate  Trace.
Sodium Sulphate  23.73
Sodium Chloride  29.25
Silicic Acid  5.73
Organic Matter  Trace.
Sulphuretted Hydrogen  Trace.

Trace.

144.50

Trace.

Trace.

31.00

22.42

5.10

22.42

Trace.

Trace.

10.50

1376

11.72

33-3t

1.07

4.72

Trace.

12.00

Total ---   152.12

71.39 218.77

o
o

oq:

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 105
There are two good hotels at Wagon Wheel Gap, one at the springs,
another close to the station, giving ample accommodation for invalids and
sportsmen. The bathing facilities at the springs consist of two first class
bath houses, one at each of the hot springs, which are supplied with modern
conveniences. Antelope Springs. Twenty miles west of Wagon Wheel Gap, in
Antelope Park, are situated Antelope Springs, in a region which is becora
ing a great resort for sportsmen and abounding in fish and game. The
waters of the springs are medicinal and resemble the more widely-known
mineral waters of the gap, in that they are both both hot and cold, and differ
among theraselves in their mineral constituents. The scenery is wild and
beautiful. For a hunting party, or as a place for a few days' outing in
camp, no raore pleasing spot can be found.
Trout Fishing in the Bio Grande. There is no stream on the
eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains that affords finer trout fishing than
the Rio Grande. Trout reaching the wonderful weight of nine pounds have
been frequently taken, and those weighing from one to three pounds can be
caught in great abundance. This is undoubtedly one of the best fishing
resorts in America. Ten miles beyond Wagon Wheel Gap on
Willow Creek, a tributary of the Rio Grande, is
Creede, the new but already famous mining
carap. This camp was located but a few years
ago, and is to-day one of the largest produc
ing camps in the State, and has a population of
five thousand. While Creede is known as a
silver camp, it is not distinctly so. The ore in

CREEDE.
Great I'lining Camp.
Population, 5,000.
Distance from Denver,
320 niles.
Elevation, 9,016 feet.

that district varies, and almost every property has more or less of a per
centage of gold. The vein matter is so rich in the leading mines that even
did they not contain gold they could be worked at a profit. But with Lead
ville, so with Creede. The deeper the mines are going, the heavier the
percentage of gold. This' has been the invariable rule with the large pro
ducing properties, which, from the indications, will soon have enough gold
to pay for their working. The camp is active and is progressing. A great
deal of development work is going on, contracts being let for extensive
work every day. New districts are being opened up, revealing new forma
tions and good paying ore. The properties that first brought the camp into
prominence are continuing their large output.
There are several good hotels in Creede, and the wayfarer will be
assured of all modern comforts.

ALAMOSA TO ESPANOLA AND SANTA FE.

HE New Mexico branch of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad
extends southward from Alamosa to Espanola, passing
through an interesting country to the tourist, especially after
New Mexico has been entered. Here can be seen what
remains of the ancient Spanish civilization, as well as the
habitations of the Pueblo Indians and the ruins of the pre-historic Cliff

EMBUDO, RIO GRANDE VALLEY,
Dwellers. Leaving Alamosa the road turns to the south and crosses the
southern portion of the San Luis Valley.
La Jara. Within the last few years raany new towns have sprung
up in the valley, owing to the development of its agricultural industries
through the construction of great irrigating canals. Old settleraents have
acquired new vigor and advanced greatly in prosperity. La Jara is one of
1 06

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

107

the towns that has received this new impulse. Its people are enterprising
and industrious. Agriculture and pastoral pursuits contribute to the town's
success. (Population, 300. Distance frora Denver, 265 miles. Elevation,
7,609 feet.)
Manassa. This is a village for a colony of Mormons, which has been
established near Antonito. These Mormons do not practice polygamy and
are industrious and law abiding citizens.
Antonito, This town is a thriving and prosperous place, the last one
of any special importance on the railroad in the southern part of the San
Luis Valley. Stock raising and agriculture occupy the attention of the
surrounding population. There is a fine stone depot here, and there are
many creditable business blocks. It is the station for Conejos, one mile
distant ; for Manassa, a large and prosperous Mormon settiement, in which
polygamy is not practiced, eight miles distant, and for San Rafael, four

OLD CHURCH OF SAN JUAN.

railes distant. Its position in the heart of the San Luis valley (for full
description of which see Alaraosa) insures it a generous and constantly
increasing support from agricultural and pastoral industries. Being the
junctional point of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad's New Mexico and
San Juan branches gives it a large railroad business. Tourists will do well
to stop at Antonito and visit the old Mexican town of Conejos, which is the
most accessible town of the typical Mexican character in Colorado. Here
may be found the plazas, churches and ancient adobe houses peculiar to
the early civilization of the Spanish. Fine fishing can be found near
Antonito. Antonito itself is a raodern town with all the life and push of the
American, full of business and enterprise. (Population, 400. Distance
from Denver, 279 railes. Elevation, 7,888 feet.)
Palmilla is twenty-three miles from Antonito, and here the road
enters the Territory of New Mexico and passes through a nuraber of sraall
stations of no especial interest to the tourist. As a matter of statistics, the
names of these stations and their distances from Denver are given ; Pal-

io8

OVER THE RANGE

A TYPICAL MEXICAN.

milla, 290 railes. Volcano, 297 railes. No Agua, 306 miles. Tres Piedras,
313 miles. Serviletta, 323 miles. Caliente, 335 miles. Barranca, 344 miles.
Comanche, 346 railes. Erabudo, 351 miles. Alcalde, 359 miles. Chamita,
365 miles. Espanola, 370 railes. The traveler will notice that the names of
the stations have assumed a Spanish form, and should he happen to
address any of the swarthy men that chance to be lounging around the
stations, he would very likely to receive a reply in the language of His-
pania. The Spanish spoken is not Castilian by any means, but is about as
near it as " pidgin English " is to genuine Chinese, being a mixture of
English, Spanish and Indian dialects.
Barranca is a quiet little station in New Mexico, 344 miles from
Denver. Its only claim for special mention is the fact that here the traveler
takes the stage for Ojo Caliente, the celebrated hot springs, which lie
among the hills, eleven miles to the westward. Stages to and from the

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

109

OJO CALIENTE.
Famous Hot Springs.
Health and Pleasure
Resort.
Elevation, 7,324 feet.

springs connect with passenger trains, raaking
quick time over an excellent road. The altitude
of the springs is 7,324 feet, and the climate
at all seasons of the year raild and pleasant.
The springs have been noted for their curative
properties and from time iraraemorial, having
been frequented by the Indians previous to
Spanish occupation and highly esteeraed by both
races sinces that date. They have proved re
raarkably successful in the treatraent of rheuma
tism, skin diseases, derangement of the kidneys
and bladder, and especially of all venereal diseases. Cases of paralysis,
after resisting the usual appliances of medicine, have been sent to Ojo
Caliente, and immediately and
permanently relieved. The
springs lie in a pleasant valley,
one thousand feet lower than
Barranca, surrounded by high
bluffs capped with basaltic
cliffs. On the top of these cliffs
are table-lands on which are
found the ruins of prehistoric
buildings, not unlike the Indian
pueblos of the present day, but
of which the Indians know noth
ing and even their traditions
furnish no account. Four miles
above the village are larger
springs of tepid water, the min
eral deposits from which have
built up great mounds, full of
strange caves and glittering
with saline incrustations. About
three miles frora Ojo Caliente
is a high mountain called Cerro
Colorado, from its peculiar
reddish brown color, which, ac
cording to the statement of the inhabitants, exhibited marked evidences of
volcanic action only sixty-two years ago. It has a well defined crater, and
offers an inviting field for the investigations of the geologist.
Comanche Canon. Six miles below Barranca the train enters
Comanche Canon. Through this canon the road raakes its descent into
the Rio Grande Valley. Rugged, difficult and striking, the canon com
mands the admiration of the spectator. Through breaks in the walls can be
caught glirapses of the valley and river, the noble Rio Grande beneath.
Experienced travelers who have raade the "grand tour" say that this
scene resembles choice bits in Switzerland. Ernest Ingersoll thus describes
the valley in his charming book, " The Crest of the Continent" : "Emerg
ing from Comanche Canon, a bend to the southward is made along the
western bank of the lower part of the canon of the Rio Grande. In many

PUEBLO INDIANS.

ili|ii)ii!ii;jiiii.iii;.E;i'i'ii'ii':itr111'!iH(iiii:

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. iti
portions of this narrow valley, only about twenty miles in length, features of
great interest to the eye occur, equaling the walls of Coraanche, which
was itself ignored until the railway brought it to the light. The river here
IS about sixty yards wide,-and pours with a swift current troubled by in
nuraerable fallen rocks. At tiraes it is swollen and yellow with the drift of
late rains, but in clear weather its waters are bright and blue, for it has not
yet soiled its color with the fine silt which will thicken it between Texas and
Mexico. On the opposite bank, near the level of the river, runs the wagon
road that General Edward Hatch, formerly coraraander of the department
of New Mexico, cut some years ago to give ready coraraunication between
his headquarters at Santa F^ and the posts in the northern part of the
Territory and in southern Colorado. This is the track now followed by all
teamsters, but the old road frora the south to Taos ran over the hills far to
the eastward, passing through Picuris."
li^mhudo. At the mouth of Coraanche Canon stands an odd conical
hill dividing the current of the river. Noticing its resemblance to a funnel
the Mexicans called it Erabudo, and the station here takes the same name.
Erabudo is chiefly iraportant as the point of departure for Taos, whose
reraarkable pueblo is described further on.
Espanola. This little village is the southern terminus of the Denver
& Rio Grande Railroad, and is of interest to the tourist because of its con
tiguity to ancient pueblos and the ruins of Cliff dwellings. The Santa F6
Southern Railroad connects here with the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad,
and by it the journey is continued to Santa F6. Espanola's tributary indus
tries are pastoral and agricultural. (Population, loo. Distance from
Denver, 370 miles. Elevation, 5,590 feet.)
Places of interest near Espanola.
Santa Cruz is a raost interesting old Mexican
town, situated on the Rio Grande del Norte,
directly opposite Espanola. Its chief attraction
is the ancient church erected in the sixteenth
century, which contains several paintings and
images sent over from Spain.
The Puehlo of San Juan is situated
on the Rio Grande, about four miles above

SANTA CRUZ
PUEBLO OF SAN
JUAN.
PUEBLO DE TAOS.

Espanola, and one and one-half mile from the railroad. There are twenty-
six similar Indian towns, nineteen of which are situated in New Mexico, and
seven in Arizona. Nine of them are on the line of the Denver & Rio
Grande Railroad, or its immediate vicinity, viz. : Taos, Picuris, San Juan,
Santa Clara, San Yldefonso, Pojuaque, Norabe, Cuyaraauque, and Tesuque.
The different pueblos closely reserable each other in construction. The
dwellings are all built of mud-colored adobes, or sun-dried bricks, and are
arranged so as to inclose a plaza or public square. The walls are frora two
to four feet in thickness, and the roofs are of timber, covered with dirt a
foot or more in depth ; many houses are two, and some even four and five
stories, or rather terraces, in height, each successive story bemg set back
some twelve or fifteen feet frora the side walls of the next story below.
The usual manner of entering these dwellings is by ascending a ladder
outside the building to the roof, and through a hole descending to the inter
ior by another ladder; thongh some, as a modern improvement, have doors

112 OVER THE RANGE
cut through the side walls. This method was doubtless adopted as a
defensive measure during troublesome times, when it was often necessary
to convert the pueblo into a fortress from which to repel hostile invasions.
Pueblo of Santa Clara A few miles below the pueblo of San
Juan is the pueblo of Santa Clara, just across the river from Chamita, a
station on the Denver & Rio Grande line. Its characteristics are similar to
those of the pueblos already described.
The Pueblo de Taos. Thirty miles above Embudo is the Pueblo
de Taos. This is considered the most interesting as well as the most per
fect specimen of a Pueblo Indian fortress. It consists of two coramunistic
houses, each five stories high, and a Roman Catholic church, now in a
ruined condition, which stands near, although apart from, the dwellings.
Around the fortress are seven circular raounds, which at first suggest the
idea of being the work of Mound Builders. On further examination they

NEW MEXICAN LIFE.

prove to be the sweating chambers, or Turkish bath, of this curious people.
The largest appears also to serve the purpose of a council chamber and
mystic hall, where rites peculiar to the tribe, about which they are very
reticent, are performed. The Pueblo Indians delight to adorn themselves
in gay colors, and form very interesting and picturesque subjects for the
artist, especially when associated with their quaint surroundings. They are
skilled in the manufacture of pottery, basket making and bead work. The
grand annual festival of these Indians occurs on the 30th of September, and
the ceremonies are of a peculiarly interesting character.
All of these ancient pueblos are easy of access via the Denver & Rio
Grande Railroad, and abound in objects of interest dating back many
hundreds of years before the occupation of the country by the whites, and
will fully repay the tourist for the time and expense necessary to visit
them. Espanola to Santa Fe. At Espanola the Santa F^ Southern
Railroad connects with the Denver & Rio Grande and carries the tourist

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

"3

SANTA FE,
The Oldest Town in the
United States.
Commercial City and
Health Resort.
Population, 7,000.
Distance from Denver,
408 miles.
Elevation, 7,046 feet.

Still further southward to the capital of New Mexico, one of the most
interesting cities on the North Araerican continent, Santa Fe. En route
one can catch a glimpse of the ruins of ancient cliff dwellings perched in
the alcoves of the perpendicular bluffs which rise near the track. The
joumey is only a distance of thirty-eight miles through a country presenting
novelty to the eyes of those unfamiliar to sub-tropical scenes, but not of an
especially startling character. The capital of the territory of New Mexico is
the oldest city in the United States, there being
evidence to show that it was inhabited as early
as 1325, or nearly three hundred years before
the pilgrim fathers landed on Plymouth Rock.
The city of Holy Faith is situated on both sides
of the Santa F^ Creek. The streets are narrow,
and the buildings are almost all constructed of
adobe, and only one story in height. The city is
filled with antiquities, the most reraarkable of
which, perhaps, is the church of San Miguel,
built in 1582, and the Palace, erected in 1710.
The city is free frora raalaria and excessive
heat and cold, and from wind and sand storms. It is supplied with pure
water and pure air from the the mountains surrounding ; it has delightful
scenery beneath bright sunshine with glorious sunsets ; it has trout in its
streams, and game in the adjacent hills and raountains ; the people are
daily supplied at their doors with the freshest and choicest esculents of
horae production ; and besides possessing wonderful health-giving proper
ties, it is one of the most comfortable residence cities in the world. This
fact is rapidly becoming known and appreciated, as witness its growing
popularity both as a suramer residence for people from the South, and as
a winter residence for people from the North, and as an all-the-year-round
residence and sanitarium for people variously in search of health, comfort,
pleasure and business.
Santa F6 is the chief money centre of the Territory. It has two old and
well established national banking houses, besides hundreds of thousands of
dollars for loan in private hands. It has a live board of trade, the most
able and distinguished bar in the Southwest. A splendid agricultural,
pastoral, and mining country is tributary to the city. (Population, 7,000.
Distance frora Denver, 408 railes. Elevation, 7,046 feet.)

¦\UyOf/,

:^?>ifc-^^

ALAMOSA TO SILVERTON.

^^/SP^ '-'" -Antonito the line branches, that to Espanola and Santa F6
extending due south and that to Silverton turning to the
westward. The trip from Antonito to Silverton is one of
great interest and abounds in scenic attractions. The road
gradually climbs out of the valley of San Luis and up the
eastward slope to the Conejos range of mountains. The line from Big
Horn to Arboles is constantly among the' hills, and the stations are either
for the convenience of stockmen or shipping points for lumber, and while
of coraraercial iraportance to the railroad, of little interest to the tourist.
During the suraraer the Conejos Mountains furnish one of the finest ranges
for stock in Colorado, and it goes without saying that these grass-carpeted
hills and vales are fully occupied. The forest growth on the western slope
is of a larger and raore dense character than that of the eastern. Many
sawmills have been here established, and the manufacture of lumber is a
large industry. The climb to Chama is full of interest. The line pursues
a tortuous course, following the convolutions of the hills and making the
ascent up the less difficult grades of the gulches.
Los Pin OS Valley. Describing a number of large curves around
constantiy deepening depressions, we reached the breast of a mountain,
whence we obtain our first glimpse into Los Pinos Valley, and it comes like
a sudden revelation of beauty and grandeur. The approach has been
picturesque and gentle in character. Now we find our train clinging to a
narrow pathway carved out far up the mountain's side, while great masses
of a volcanic congloraerate tower overhead, and the faces of the opposing
heights are broken into bristling crags. The river sinks deeper and
deeper into the narrowing vale, and the space beneath us to its banks is
excitingly precipitous. We crowd upon the platform, the outer step of
which sometiraes hangs over an abyss that raakes us shudder, till sorae
friendly bank places itself between us and the alraost unbroken descent.
But we learn to enjoy the imminent edge, along which the train creeps so
cautiously, and begrudge every instant that the landscape is shut out by
intervening objects. To say that the vision here is grand, awe-inspiring,
impressive or memorable, falls short of the truth in each case. It is too
much to take in at once. We are so high that not only the bottom of the
valley, where the silvery ribbon of the Los Pinos trails in and out among
the trees, and underneath the headlands, but even the wooded tops of the
further rounded hills are below us, and we can count the dim, distant peaks
in New Mexico.
Phantom Curve. One ot the most striking scene? oa the line of
this ascent is Phantom Curve. Just after the side-track station of Sublette
(305 miles from Denver) has been passed, the road makes a great bend
114

^'r M yV.vXNno.A. ^ _\h.V

'#*

ii6

OVER THE RANGE

around the side of a mountain ; on the left rise tall monuments of sandstone,
cut by the elements into weird and fantastic figures. Here is indeed a wild
spot, with the valleys so deep below, the grotesque, red monumental rocks
around, the tall, shelving cliffs above. A mile beyond the Curve the rail
road crosses the head of the ravine on a high bridge of trestle work. From
this point the track runs directly toward the valley, on a line almost at
right angles with it, to where it narrows into a mere fissure in the rocks at
Toltec Gorge. The approach to this great scenic wonder
prepares the traveler for something extraordi
nary and spectacular. A black speck in the
distance against the precipitous surface of a
frowning cliff is beheld long before Toltec is
reached, and is pointed out as the entrance to
the tunnel which is the gateway to the Gorge.
As the advance is made around mountain spurs
and deep ravines, glimpses are caught of pro
found depths and towering heights, the black
speck widens into a yawning portcullis, and then the train, making a detour
of four miles around a side canon, plunges into the blackness of Toltec
tunnel, which is remarkable in that it pierces the summit of the mountain
instead of its base. Fifteen hundred feet of perpendicular descent would
take one to the bottom of the gorge, while the seared and wrinkled expanse
of the opposite wall confronts us, lifting its massive bulwarks high above us.
"Fronting lieaven's splendor,
Strong and full and clear."
When the train emerges from the tunnel it is upon the brink of a preci
pice. A solid bridge of iron and masonry, set in the rock after the manner

Toltec Gorge,
A Scenic Wonder.
Depth of Gorge,
1,500 feet.
Distance from Denver,
314 miles.

of a balcony, supports the
track, and from this coigne phantom curve,
of vantage the traveler be
holds a most thrilling spectacle. The tremendous gorge, whose sides are
splintered rocks and raonuraental crags and whose depths are filled with
the snow-white waters of a foaming torrent, lies beneath him, the blue sky
IS above him and all around the majesty and mystery of the mountains

TOLTEC GORGE.

ii8

OVER THE RANGE.

GARFIELD MEMORIAL,

Garfield Memorial. To
the left of the track, just beyond
the bridge, stands a monument of
granite. Curiosity is naturally
excited at beholding this polished
shaft, and the questions which
arise as to its origin can be briefly
answered as follows : On the
26th day of September, 1881, the
National Association of General
Passenger Agents (then on an
excursion over the Denver & Rio
Grande Railroad), at the time
President Garfield was being
buried in Cleveland, held raemor
ial services at the raouth of Toltec
tunnel and since have erected
this beautiful monument in cora
raemoration of the event.
C umb res. This sraall sta
tion is on the surarait of the
Conejos Range, which we are now
crossing, and, having passed it, we are on the Pacific slope. (Population,
nominal. Distance from Denver, 329 miles. Elevation, 10,015 feet.)
Chama. This is an eating station, where, in spite of primitive accom
modations, an excellent meal can be obtained. Large quantities of luraber
are shipped frora here, and the surrounding country is an excellent range
for stock. (Population, 300. Distance frora Denver, 343 railes. Elevation,
7,863 feet.)
Amargo. This little station is in the raidst of attractive scenery, but
is especially worthy of raention from the fact that it is the station at which
tourists and health seekers take the stage for Pagosa Springs.
Pagosa Springs, the far famed "big medi
cine " of the Utes, the greatest thermal fountains
on the continent, are situated in Archuleta County,
twenty-eight miles northwest of Amargo, the
nearest railway station, on the New Mexico
extension of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad.
These Springs lie upon the northern bank of
the San Juan River, at an altitude of seven
thousand feet, and in a situation combining
numerous advantages and attractions. To the
north are the peaks of the San Juan range, east
and west are the grassy plains dotted with immense pines and far to the
south the undulating prairie stretches into New Mexico. With such an
environment, the Pagosa Springs raust ere long gain the celebrity to which
their raedicinal qualities undoubtedly entitle thera. The Indians having
long been aware of the healing powers of these "great medicine waters,"
and have, until recently, jealously guarded their possession. It is not sur
prising that these children of the wilderness, who find relief from distress

Pagosa Springs.
The " Big IVIedicine " of
the Indians.
HOT SPRINGS,
Health and Pleasure
Resort.
Elevation, 7,io8 feet.

iUUL

CASTLE OF THE CLIFF DWELLERS, MANGOS CANON, COLORADO,

I20 OVER THE RANGE.
mainly frora the medications of Nature, should deplore the loss of these power
ful thermal waters. Within a basin seventy feet long and fifty feet wide,
formed from its own alkaline deposits, which are twenty or thirty feet thick,
the water bubbles up at a teraperature of 153° Fahrenheit. There are four
other springs in the immediate locality, their similarity to the main source,
as shown by analysis, suggesting a common origin. Upon a cold morning
the steara which rises from these different springs can be seen at a distance
of several miles. These purgative, alkaline waters, with the large excess of
sulphate of soda, so much increased in raedicinal virtue by the degree
of temperature, would seem to designate Pagosa as the Bethesda for
sufferers from calculus disorders, gravel with uric diathesis, rheumatism
and skin diseases, when alterative and depleting treatment is indicated.
New bath houses are being erected, and the tourist will find good accom
modations here.
The Pacific Slope. From Chama to Durango, the ride is down
grade and through a most interesting country. Hills and valleys of great
beauty, meadows covered with thick growing grass, forests of giant trees,
are some of the many attractions of this trip. For details of information
concerning the small stations, the tourist is referred to the tables given in
another part of this book. The line passes through the Indian reservation.
Ignacio. At Ignacio the Indian reservation is reached and the rude
tepees of the Southern Utes can be seen pitched along the banks of the Rio
de las Florida. Occasionally a glirapse can be caught of a stolid brave,
tricked out in all his savage finery, gazing fixedly at the train as it speeds
by. Frequently there is quite a little group of these aborigines at the
station, and they are always ready to exchange bows and arrows, trophies
of the chase, or speciraens of their rude handiwork, in return for very hard
cash. This thriving city is the county seat of La
Plata County, Colorado, and is the comraercial
centre of southwestern Colorado. It is the
market for the agricultural region of Farming-
ton and Bloomfield, New Mexico, and the valleys
of the Rio de las Animas, the Rio Florida, etc.
Two miles below Durango is the wonderful
" ninety-two feet thick " vein of coal, one of the
largest in the State, and here are also great coke
ovens. All the surrounding hills are more
heavily timbered than in any other part of
Colorado. In addition to its many other resources Durango boasts of two of
the largest smelters in the State, reducing from their native state the
precious ores of the wonderfully rich mines of the entire San Juan.
With two railroads in operation, and several in contemplation, and with
its natural resources Durango will in time, and a very short tirae too, prove
to be the raetropolis of the Great Southwest.
The famous Cliff Ruins, a description of which will be found further
on, are reached frora Durango, by the Rio Grande Southern Railroad to
Mancos Station, thence by saddle horses or wagons.
In a word, Durango is one of the most progressive towns in Colorado,
and is surrounded by a country of unexampled richness. Mining, agricul-

DURANGO.
iWetropolis
of the San Juan.
Population, 8,000,
Distance from Denver,
via Veta Pass 450 miles.
Via Salida, 502 miles.
Via Ridgway, 540 miles.
Elevation, 6,520 feet.

122 OVER THE RANGE,
tural and pastoral pursuits all contribute to her success;, but best of all
her business raen are alive, and by their liberality, generosity and push
insure a good future for the city.
Farming-ton, Bloomfield and Aztec are growing towns in New
Mexico, just over the southern line of La Plata County. They are in the
heart of a large agricultural and stock growing district, and near many
ruins of the horaes of the ancient Cliff Dwellers.
Trimble Hot Spring's are reached nine miles above Durango.
The spacious hotel stands within a hundred yards of the road to the left of
the track. Here are medicinal hot springs of great curative value, and
here, in the season, gather invalids and pleasure seekers to drink the waters
and enjoy the delights of this charming resort. The water as it pours out of
the rock is at a temperature of 120 degrees, and runs constantly in a stream
three inches in diam^eter. Within two feet of it is another spring flowing
as much more in a stream of cold water. Bath houses have been erected,
and the hot and cold water can be mixed. The medicinal properties of
these springs are beyond question. Four miles further up the Animas
valley are the Pinkertou springs of warm water, closely resembling in
properties those at Trimble's. Leaving the springs behind, the train
speeds up the valley, which gradually narrows as the advance is made, the
ascending grade becomes steeper, the hills close in, and soon the view is
restricted to the rocky gorge within whose depths the raging waters of the
Animus sway and swirl.
Magnificent Scenery. From Durango, the metropolis of the San
Juan, to Silverton, the scenery is of surpassing grandeur and beauty. The
railroad follows up the course of the Animas River (to which the Spaniards
gave the musical but melancholy title of " Rio de las Animas Perdidas," or
River of Lost Souls) until the picturesque mining town of Silverton is
reached. The valley of the Animas is traversed before the canon is
entered, and the traveler's eyes are delighted with succeeding scenes of
sylvan beauty. To the right is the river, beyond which rise the hills ; to the
left are raountains, increasing in rugged contour as the advance is raade ;
between the track and the river are cultivated fields and cosy farm-houses,
while evidences of peace, prosperity and plenty are to be seen on every hand.
This beautiful canon has characteristics pe
culiarly its own. The railroad does not follow
the bed q^ the stream, but clings to the cliffs
midway of their height, and a glance from the
car windows gives one the irapression of a view
from a balloon. Below, a thousand feet, are the
waters of the river, in places white with foam, in
quiet coves, green as ocean's depths. Above,
five hundred feet, climb the combing cliffs, to
which cling pines and hemlocks. The canon here is a mere fissure in the
mountain's heart, so narrow that one can easily toss a stone across and send
it bounding down the side of the opposing rock-wall until it falls into the
waters of the river rushing through the abyss below. Emerging from this
wonderful chasm, the bed of the gorge rises until the roadway is but a few
feet above the stream. The close, confining and towering walls of rock are
replaced by mountains of supreme height. The Needles, which are among

ANIHAS CANON.
A Gem of Beauty.
Depth, 1,500 feet.
Distance from Denver,
470 miles.

tKi|iJJJ.].y^|^ «"i«."l^

124

OVER THE RANGE.

the most peculiar and striking of the Rockies, thrust their sharp and splin
tered peaks into the regions of eternal frost.
Elk Park is a.quiet little nook in the midst of the range, with vistas
of meadow and groves of pines, a spot which would furnish the artist many
a subject for his canvas. At the end of Elk Park stands Garfield Peak,
lifting its summit a mile above the track. Beyond are marshalled the ever
lasting mountains, and through them for miles extends, in varying beauty
and grandeur, the Canon of the Animas. Frequent waterfalls glisten in the
sunlight, leaping from crag to crag only to lose themselves at last in the
onflowing river. Emerging finally from this environment of crowding cliffs,
the train sweeps into Baker's Park and arrives at Silverton in the heart of
the San Juan. This thriving and picturesque little city is
the county seat of San Juan County, Colorado,
and derives its support from the surrounding
mines, which are scattered in every portion of
the county. The output of the camp has
swelled from an annual product of $40,000 to
$2,000,000 in three years. From 600 to 1,000 tons
of ore are shipped weekly from Silverton, and
the product is constantly increasing. An indus
try of no small importance, and which is rapidly
assuming large dimensions, is the system of
leasing raines, and it may be said that at least one-half of the producing
mines are now being worked by lessees. Hundreds of prospects that are
in a condition to ship paying raineral are now laying idle, awaiting the
arrival of thrifty miners to take and work them under this system. The
scenery around Silverton is of the most beautiful and attractive character,
Entrance to Baker's Park, in which the town lies, is made through the
famous Animas Canon. Hid in a theatre of hills, the picturesqueness of
the surroundings cannot be adequately described. Sultan Mountain, one of
the grandest of the San Juan Range, towers above the town ; its summit
crowned with snow from which descend innumerable rills, glittering like
silver in the sunbeams.

SILVERTON.
Picturesque Mining
Town.
Population, :^,500.
Distance from Denver,
495 miles.
Elevation, 9,224 feet.

SILVERTON AND SULTAN MOUNTAIN.

DURANGO TO RIDGWAY
VIA RIO GRANDE SOUTHERN RAILROAD.

, EAVING Durango via the Rio Grande Southern line, the ,
tourist is whisked across the Rio de Las Animas up Lightner
Creek, past the silver and gold smelters with their seething
furnaces and smoke and dust-begrimed workmen,' and
shortly past the famous coal banks where the black diamond
is dug frora the bowels of Mother Earth, and from, there hauled to the
smelters where it is used for the reduction and refining of its more
exalted, but not more useful brethren.
Up through the valley the train speeds along among huge pines which
thus far have escaped the woodman's axe, and which will be free frora such
invasion as long as Uncle Sara clairas this particular 'spot as the especial
reservation for the railitary post at old Fort Lewis.
From Fort Lewis the line passes through seemingly endless forests of
pine trees, and after the reservation is passed an occasional saw-mill is
sighted frora its emitting unearthly screeches, which the knowing ones say
is merely the head sawyer sharpening up. Descending the mountain into
the valley, the beholder looks out on a broad expanse of fertile, well-watered
country, surrounded on all sides by snow-capped mountains, and dotted
with the rancheros of the hardy pioneer, who has been well repaid for his
daring in locating in this far-away but beautiful valley, by its productive
ness, and now that the railroad, that greatest of all civilizers, has come, he
has abundant opportunities for the disposition of his products.
In the centre of this valley lies Mancos station, which is the junction
with the main line of the proposed extensiori of this road into Arizona.
One of the most attractive portions of Colo
rado, to the scientist, antiquarian and indeed,
the general tourist, is that part in which are
found the cliff-dwellings of a long extinct race.
Some of the most remarkable of these ancient
ruins are situated in the Mancos canon, within
a day's ride of Durango. A brief description of
one of these will serve as a characterization of
all. Perched seven hundred feet above the
valley, on a little ledge only just large enough to hold it, stands a two-story
house made of finely-cut sandstone, each block about fourteen by six inches,
accurately fitted and set in mortar, now harder than the stone itself. The
floor is the ledge of the rock, and the roof the overhanging cliff. There are
three rooras on the ground floor, each one six by nine feet, with partition
walls of faced stone. Traces of a floor which once separated the upper
126

THE

Cliff Dwellings.

Relics of

A Pre-Historic Race.

Ruins

Older than History.

ANIMAS CAfgON AND THE NEEDLE MOUNTAIN.

128 OVER THE RANGE.
from the lower story still reraain. Each of the stories is six feet in height,
and all the rooras are nicely plastered and painted, what now looks a dull
brick red color, with a white band along the floor. The windows are "y "
shaped apertures with no signs of glazing, commanding a view of the whole
valley for many miles. One of our illustrations shows a fortified watch-tower,
indicating that these strange cliff-dwelling people were prepared to resist
assault. Traditions are few and of history there is nothing concerning this
lost race. Their ruined houses only remain, and some broken fragnjents of
the irapleraents raade use of in war and peace. Researches are in progress
concerning these extreraely interesting ruins and new facts are being
developed concerning their architecture ; but it is quite improbable that
any certain light will ever be thrown on their origin or history.
To the south of Mancos station, within a day's ride, and easily accessi
ble, are the principal ruins of the strange habitations of this extinct and
mysterious race. To those seeking curiosities and wonders, the great
Canon of the Mancos, the great Montezuma Valley, the McElmo Canon,
the Lower Animas Valley, and the Chaco Canon are the wonderlands of the
world. They contain thousands of horaes, and a town of the ancient race
of Mound Builders and " Cliff Dwellers,'' that has attracted the curious
ever since the discovery of America. The great Mancos Canon contains
hundreds of these horaes which were built and occupied thousands of years
ago. Yet many of them are in a good state of preservation, and in them
have been found many specimens of pottery and irapleraents of husbandry
and warfare. This canon is cut through Mesa Verde, a distance of thirty
miles, and the walls on either side rise to a perpendicular height of two
thousand feet. These cliff dwellings are built in the sides of the canon, as
shown in the illustration. Fifteen miles farther west from the Mancos is
situated the great Montezuma Valley, where thousands of fine specimens of
pottery have been found among the ruins of that ancient people. Oi) the
weBt side of this valley is the great McElmo Caiion, also full of the ancient
homes of the " Cliff Dwellers." Thirty-five miles south of Durango, in the
valley ofthe Animas, are some extensive ruins of the Aztecs, and fifty miles
further south are the wonderful ruins in the Chaco Canon. These ancient
Pueblos are, without doubt, the most extensive and the best preserved of
any in the United States. Of these Prof. Hayden in his report of the
Geological Survey of the United States for the year 1866, says: "The
great ruins in the Chaco Canon are pre-eminently the finest examples of
the works of the unknown builders to be found north of the seat of ancient
Aztec Empire in Mexico." There are eleven extensive Pueblos in this
canon, nearly all in a good state of preservation, and their appearance indi
cates that they were once the home of fifteen hundred to three thousand
people each. Frora the thousands of ruins of cities, towns and families
found throughout this great San Juan Valley, it is evident that once
this great valley was the home of hundreds of thousands of this
extinct race. That they were a peaceful and agricultural race of people is
evidenced by the large nuraber of their implements of husbandry and
the specimens of corn and beans found in these ruins, besides irrigating
ditches and reservoirs for the storage of water.
Mancos. The debarking point for the cliff ruins as mentioned above
and the leading town of the valley. Shipping point for large numbers of

CLIFF DWELLINGS.

I30 OVER THE RANGE.
cattle and sheep. (Distance from Denver 490 miles. Population 300. Ele- •
vation 7,008 feet.)
Leaving Mancos, the road winds up the sloping sides of a flat-topped
mountain, and there on its summit, among huge pines centuries old, b.ubbles
up a clear, cold spring of sparkling water, forming the stream that ilows
dovifn through the beautiful Lost Canon, and which is called by the unpoetic
name of " Lost Canon Creek."
Lost Canon is a novelty in itself, as its sides are densely wooded and
softly carpeted with a thick bed of moss and leaves, beautifully colored by
millions of Colorado wild flowers whose delicate beauty is unrivaled.
Emerging from Lost Canon the traveler is whirled up to the beautiful
Valley of the Dolores River, with its many ranches and farms, past the
town of the same name. Off to the left, flowing to the eastward, comes
bubbling down the mountain side into the larger river, the West Dolores,
and no more famous or prolific trout stream exists than this.
Dolores. One of the principal towns in Southwestern Colorado. It is
the shipping point for the southeastern part of Utah and from whence the Gold
Hunters start on their prospecting trips to the canons of the San Juan and
Colorado Rivers. (Population 500. Distance from Denver, 510 miles. Ele
vation 6,957 feet.)
Dolores Canon. Continuing on up the main river, the valley begins
to narrow down, until we are once more within the walls of a canon which
takes its name from the stream flowing through it. While this canon is not
particularly deep, its natural beauties are manifold and are sure to make a
lasting and delightful impression on the beholder.
Rushing out of the canon the tourist is now landed at Rico.
Rico is one of the raost important mining towns of the State, whose
mines dot the mountain sides, and whose product is packed to the cars on
the backs of the ever patient and faithful burro, without which no mining
camp can be complete.
Rico ranks araong the " cities of the first class " and has all the facilities
and iraprovements of a town of ten times its population. Its principal
industries are those connected with mining interests, though considerable
agricultural country surrounds it. The town is located in what was at one
time the crater of a large volcano. Precipitous mountains with poetic
names arise upon all sides of it, gradually widening, until by describing a
circle of their sumraits they appear as the top of a huge funnel. Among
them is the famous Telescope Mountain, a freak of nature only to be seen
to forra a proper realization of the aptness of its name. The place has
much of historic interest, as evidences of early Spanish discoveries are
found on raany sides. (Population 3,000. Distance frora Denver, via Ridg
way, 444 ; via Durango, 546 miles. Elevation 8,737 feet.)
Liizard Head Pass Leaving Rico, the line continues up the
Dolores, which grows smaller and smaller, until it becomes a mere silver
thread winding in and out among huge rocks and boulders. Thirteen
miles north of Rico, and after climbing many miles of three and four per
cent, grades, the summit of the Lizard Head Pass is reached at an eleva
tion of nearly 11,000 feet. From the summit and to the left will be seen
the Lizard Head, a peculiar rock formation capping a tall, bare mountain.

'^•i^-M.' 'H -f

132 OVER THE RANGE.
This rock derives its name from its resemblance to the head of a mountain
lizard, though at the sarae time it may be said to resemble the shaft of some
large monument.
Descending the pass through the mountain gorges over rushing moun
tain streams, one finds one's self at
Trout Lake. No more graphic description of this sheet of beautiful
Olue water can be given than a verse from a poem by " H. H."
"Tlie mountain's wall in tiie water ;
It loolcs liice a great blue cup ;
And the sky looks like anotiier
Turned over, bottom side up."
Here the sport-inclined tourist may spend a few days, for the lake is
inhabited by thousands and thousands of mountain trout. Accomraodations
of a primitive, though wholesome character, can be obtained of the neigh
boring ranchraen. (Population nominal. Distance from Denver, via Ridg
way 427 miles ; via Durango 563 miles. Elevation 9,400 feet.)
Shortly after leaving Trout Lake, the famous
Ophir Loop is passed. Here the skill of the engineer was taxed to
its utmost, for the track winds in zig-zags down the mountain side, rushing
through a deep cut here, over a mountain torrent and a high bridge there,
darting around sharp curves, in and out of snowsheds, until on the opposite
mountain and high above us is to be seen a line of freshly-turned earth,
which the knowing ones say is the track over which we have just passed.
From Vance Junction, a side trip of ten miles, which will, repay
the tourist, can be made to
Telluride, a mining town of some 2,500 inhabitants, nestling among
snow-capped mountains, rising to stupendous heights and rich in gold and
silver. Like all the towns of the San Juan, mining is the principal resource
of the city ; at Telluride are located some of the largest and richest mines
in the country. (Distance from Denver, via Ridgway 423 miles ; via Duran
go 582 miles. Elevation 8,756 feet.)
From Vance Junction the journey is continued down the San Miguel
River, past Placerville, until the river leaves the rail, and again we com
mence to go up ; this time over the Dallas Divide. This pass resembles
Marshall Pass, though not quite so long. After reaching the summit, the
line runs down the eastern slope along Leopard Creek, high above it on the
mountain side, giving a most magnificent view of the Uncompahgre Range
to the south with its gentle slopes softly colored by the deep, dark foliage of
dense pine and fir forests, gradually rising until the mountains develop into
a huge mass of shattered pinnacles, their topmost points covered with the
everlasting snow.
Bidgway. This bustiing little town is the northern terminus of the
Rio Grande Southern Railroad, and its junction point with the Ouray branch
of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The shops and headquarters are
here, giving employment to a large portion of its inhabitants. A fine agri
cultural, as well as a very rich mining region surround Ridgway, and give
promise of raaking it a large and prosperous city. (Distance from Denver
378 miles ; via Durango 612 miles. Population, 1,000. Elevation, 7,002 feet.)

CATHEDRAL SPIRE.— OPHIR LOOP.

SILVERTON TO MONTROSE.

I HE trip from Silverton to Montrose across the intervening range of
mountains, is not at all the difficult undertaking it looks to be.
Here, blocking the way, is one of the most rugged and lofty chains
of the great Rocky Mountain system, which but recently only the
adventurous prospector and his sure footed burro (donkey) dared to
cross ; but now the journey has been rendered an easy accomplishment by the
building of the Silverton Railway over Red Mountain to Ironton, from vrhich point
comfortable stages carry the tourist a distance of eight miles to Ouray, where the
trip is continued by way of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad. The construction
of the Silverton Railway was a task of great magnitude, and one remarkable
feature about it is that it owes its existence to the enterprise and daring of one
raan. For years Mr. Otto Mears has, been the "pathfinder" of the San Juan
country, and the toll roads constructed by him have opened the way to the many
rich mining camps of that argentiferous region. Recently enlarging his field of
usefulness, he began unaided and alone the building of this mountain railroad;
himself being both bond owner, stockholder, corporation, president, board o!
trustees, treasurer, auditor, general manager, chief engineer and paymaster. The
result has been one of the most remarkable achievements in engineering of modern
times. The road has the same gauge as that of the Denver & Rio Grande, and
like it finds no grade so stubborn as to be insurmountable. Taking the cars at the
Denver & Rio Grande depot, at Silverton, the ascent of the mountains is at once
begun. There is no prelimihary skirmishing along level ground for Silverton lies
at the bottem of a bowl-shaped valley, and the mountains rise round about on all
sides to tremendous heights. With curves, whose sinuosity surpasses that of the
serpent's trail, the railroad climbs up the gulches, until at the mining station of
Chattanooga the track makes an almost perfect loop, the cars traveling several miles
forward and the same distance back— and there lies Chattanooga directly beneath
us I All that has been gained is altitude. This is equivalent, however, to a direct
progress of a thousand feet, though it has taken a journey of fifteen thousand feet
to accomplish it. At the summit of the range the railroad reaches an altitude of
12,000 feet, and the-view is something to be remembered a life time. At one point
of the descent it has been necessary to construct a switch-back reversing the course
of the train, and yet continuing the descent. This switch-back is a novel applica
tion of engineering science, and is an exceedingly interesting piece of railroad
work. The ascent and descent of Red Mountain by this wonderful railway, give
the tourist not only an opportunity to behold the grandest of mountain scenery,
but also the privilege of witnessing on all sides the progress of mining operations'.
The shafts, shaft houses, tunnels, and " prospect " holes of mines in fact or in
futuro, are to be seen on all sides. The mines of Red Mountain are numerous, and
several of them rank among the richest in the world. At Ironton, a typical mi'niHE-
134 *

BEAR CREEK FALLS.

136

OVER THE RANGE.

town, the Silverton Railroad has its terminus, and here stages are taken for the
eight miles ride to Ouray.
A Komantic Stage Ride. The stage ride forms one of the raost
attractive features of this most attractive journey. Lasting only three hours, pass
ing over the summits of ranges and through the depths of canons, the tourist will
find this a welcome variation to his method of travel, and a great relief and recrea-
tion. The old fashioned stage, with all its romantic associations, is rapidly becom
ing a thing of the past. A year or two more and it will have disappeared entirely
from Colorado. Here, in the midst of some of the grandest scenery on the conti
nent, the blue sky above, and the fresh, pure exhilarating mountain air sending the
blood bounding through one's veins, to clamber into a Concord coach and be
whirled along a splendidly constructed road, as solid as the living rock from which
it has been carved at an expense in 'some instances of $40,000 a mile, and as smooth
as a city boulevard, is surely a novel and delightful experience. The scenery on

ON THE UNCOMPAHGRE.

this journey between Silverton and Ouray is of the greatest magnificence. This is
especially true of this portion of the route traversed by stage. The Silverton and
Ouray toll road has long been noted for its attractions in the way pf scenery, the
triangular mass of Mount Abraham's towers to the left, while the road winds
around the curves of the hills with the sinuosity of a mountain brook.
Bear Creek Falls. The scene from the bridge over Bear Creek is one
which once beheld can never be forgotten. Directly under the bridge plunges a
cataract to the depth of two hundred and fifty-three feet, forming a most note
worthy and impressive scene. The toll road passes through one of the most famous
mining regions in the world, and the fame of Red Mountain is well deserved both
from the number and richness of its mines. Before Ouray is reached the road
passes through Uncompahgre Caiion. Here the roadbed has been blasted from
the solid rock wall of the gorge, and a scene similar in nature and rivaling in
grandeur that of Animas Caiion is beheld.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 137

OURAY.
Tlie Gem of the
Kockles.
Healtli and Fleasnre
Besort.
Elevation, 7,781 feet.
Distance from Denver,
389 miles.
Population, 8,500.

This is one of the most beautifully situated
towns to be found anywhere. Its scenery is idylic.
The village is cradled in a lovely valley, sur
rounded by rugged mountains. The situation of
the town is thus briefly described in the Crest of the
Continent ; " The valley in which the town is built
is pear-shaped, its greatest width being not more
than half a mile, while its length is about twice that
down to the raouth of the caiion. Southward — that
is toward the heart of the main range — stand the
two great peaks, Hardin and Hayden. Between is
the deep gorge down which the Uncompahgre finds
its way ; but this is hidden from view by a ridge which walls in the town and cuts
off all the further view from it in that direction, save where the triangular top of
Mount Abrahams peers over. Westward are grouped a series of broken ledges,
surmounted by greater and more rugged heights. Down between these and the
western foot of Mount Hayden struggles Canon Creek to join the Uncompahgre ;
while Oak Creek leaps down a line of cataracts from a notch in the terraced heights
through which the quadrangular head of White House Mountain becomes grandly
discernable — the eastermost buttress of the wintry Sierra San Miguel. At the
lower side of the basin, where the path of the river is beset with close caiion-walls,
the cliffs rise vertical from the level of the village, and bear their forest growth
many hundreds of feet above. These raighty walls, two thousand feet high in some
places, are of metamorphic rock, and their even stratification simulates courses of
well-ordered masonry. Stained by iron and probably also by manganese, they are
a deep red-maroon ; this color does not lie uniformly, however, but is stronger in
some layers than in others, so that the whole face of the cliff is banded horizontally
in pale rust color, or dull crimson, or deep and opaque maroon. The western cliff
is bare, but on the more frequent ledges of the eastern wall scattered spruces grow,
and add to its attractiveness. Yet, as though Nature meant to teach that a bit of
motion, — a suggestion of glee was needed to relieve the sombreness of utter
imraobility and grandeur, however shapely, she has led to the sunlight, by a crevice
in the upper part of the eastern wall that we cannoc see, a brisk torrent draining
the snowfields of some distant plateau. This little stream, thus beguiled by the
fair channel that led it through the spruce woods above, has no time to think of its
fate, but it is flung out over the sheer precipice eighty feet into the valley below.
We see the white ghost of its descending, and always to our ears is murmured the
voice of the Naiads, who are taking the breathless plunge. Yet by what means the
stream reaches that point from above cannot be seen, and the picture is that of a
strong jet of water bursting from an orifice through the crimson wall, and falling
into rainbow-arched mist and a tangle of grateful foliage that hides its further
flowing." The town has one hotel of great magnificence worthy of a city of ten times its
population, besides a good supply of other hostelries of a less splendid character.
Ouray is a health resort worthy of patronage by invalids, possessing hot springs of
a fine raedicinal character and abounding in attractions to divert the mind. Plenty
of sport can be had about here. The mountain sheep and wapiti have not yet been
killed off ; deer and trout are abundant. The rides up the roads and trails to
neighboring mines and mining camps, through valley and caiion, and over moun
tain and mesa, are not soon exhausted, and the lover of botany or geology, or the
student of mineralogy and mining, could scarcely find a finer field anywhere than
in the neighborhood of Ouray.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

139

Ouray to Montrose. Leaving Ouray, a ride of thirty-five miles, via the
Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, brings the traveler to Montrose, on the main line of
the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, between Denver and Salt Lake. Two miles from
Ouray the country begins to become open and soon one is passing through farms
and an excellent agricultural valley. En route one passes the confluence of the
Uncompahgre and Dallas, and the mesas and terraces on either side abound with
almost every species ot game, deer, elk, mountain sheep, bear, and smaller animals.
Ridgway. — Eleven miles from Ouray. The junction point with the
Rio Grande Southern Railroad. A description of this charming little city

CHIEFS OF THE UNCOMPAHGRE UTES.

will be found elsewhere in this volume. Further on, twenty-two miles from
Ouray, you come to the old Los Pirios Agency, where Chiefs Douglas, Jack,
Colorow, Piah, and other Indians, who participated in the massacre of
Thornburg and the Meekers, tested the nerve of General Hatch and his associates
in 1879. The store-house, council chamber, etc., are still standing. The railitary
camp is passed twenty-six miles from Ouray, and five miles further on, one reaches
the residence of Chippeta, the widow of Ouray, the dead Ute chief, who, during
his reign, held the Utes in check, and was always the friend of the white man. At
Montrose the tourist can take the main line of the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad
and resume the trans-continental journey.

LEADVILLE TO DILLON.

From Leadville a br.inch line of
the widely radiating Denver and Rio
Grande system extends over Fremont
Pass to Dillon. The general direction
taken by the line is to the northeast,
with a deflection from Frisco to Dillon
to the northwest. The Great Middle Park
of Colorado lies to the north of Dillon,
just over the range of the Williams River
Mountains. The country between Lead
ville and Dillon is e.xtremely mountainous,
and mines of great value have been dis
covered in this region. The railroad
crosses the Park Range at Fremont Pass,
and in the valley at the foot of the pass
the Arkansas River has its sources. The
Blue River heads on the Pacific slope near
the pass, and the south branch is crossed
by the railroad near the small station of
Wheeler, the north branch is encountered at Frisco in the vicinity of which the
two join and form thc raain stream, which empties into the Grand in the south
west corner of Middle Park.
The ride from Leadville to Fremont Pass is one of great interest to lovers
of the grand and beautiful in nature. The mountain ranges which surround the
"Carbonate Camp" are in plain view, and every turn in the road reveals new
attractions. This extension of the line is known as the Blue River branch. It is
X41

142 OVES THE RANGE
thirty-six miles in length, with its terminus at Dillon. The intervening stations
are Birds Eye, Alicante, Fremont Pass, Robinson, Kokomo, Wheeler, Frisco and
Dillon. Source of the Arkansas. The line from Leadville follows up the
Arkansas River, and here we have an object lesson in the growth of rivers. We
see from what small beginnings great things in the way of water courses grow.
We see how a little brook which one could dam with a couple of shovels of mud
may push its way along, " undermining what it cannot overthrow ; sliding around
the obstacle that deemed itself impassable, losing itself in willowy bogs, tumbling
headlong over the error of a precipice or getting heedlessly entrapped in a confined
canon ; escaping down a gorge with indescribable turmoil, and always growing
bigger, bigger, broader and stronger, deeper and more dignified ; till it can leave
the mountains and strike boldly across a. thousand miles of untracked plain to
' fling its proud heart into the sea.' "
Almost in the very springs of the river, where an amphitheatre of gray
quartzite peaks stand like stiffened silver-gray curtains between the Atlantic and
the Pacific, we curl round a perfect shepherd's crook of a curve, and then climb its
straight staff to the summit of Fremont Pass.
Through a charming valley the approach to
Fremont Pass is made. A famous pass, with the
historic name of him who has been called " The
Pathfinder," although a later day has witnessed
greater achievements than his among the Rocky
Mountains. A journey here deserves the title of a
pilgrimage, for from the summit of this pass the
traveler can discern the Mount of the Holy Cross.
The scene is one replete with vivid interest. Fainter
and fainter grow the lines of objects in the valley,
until at last the clouds envelope the train, and at the next moment the observer
looks down upon a rolling mass of vapor through which the light strikes in many
colored beams. The sublimity of the scene forbids all thoughts other than those
of reverence and rapture. " The snow-crowned monarclis of an upper world,
Rugged and steep and bare, tlie mountains rise;
"Their very feet are planted in the skies;
Adown their sides are avalanches hurled.
" Time was when few and daring were the men
Who miglit behold this pass, that Fremont gained
Tlirough toil and danger, and its heights attained,
Perils beset the long leagues down again.
** Now all may come who seek, afar from crowds,
The grand in nature, for we now engage
The potent genii of this iron age,
Fire, steam and steel, and rise above the clouds ! "
The railroad crosses the pass at an elevation of about two miles above the
level of the sea, and ranks among the highest railroad passes in the world.
Mount of the Holy Cross. From the crest of Fremont Pass the
traveler looks eagerly about and soon catches sight of the sacred symbol which
gives name to the famous mount. The snow-white emblem of Christian faith
gleams with bright splendor against the azure sky. The wayfarer at last realizes
that he has reached the height " around whose summit splendid visions rise."
This is one ot the best points of view from which to behold this wonderful
mountain, a more extended description of which will be found in the chapter

FREMONT PASS.

One of the Higliest

Kailroad Passes

In the World.

Elevation, 11,389 feet.

144

OVER THE RANGE

entitled, From Leadville
to Aspen.
Downward to
Dillon. On the Pacific
Slope are the mines which
made this region famous.
The Robinson Consoli
dated, the White Quail,
the Wheel of Fortune, etc.
Moving on down the
pleasant valley, whose level
bottom is carbonate tinted,
not with ore dust, but with
an almost continuous thicket
of stunted red willows, we
pass the Chalk Mountain
mines, the Carbonate Hill
district, Clinton Gulch,
where gold ore is alleged to
be worth more attention
than it is receiving, and so
corae to Elk Mountain and
Kokomo. The ore found
here is a hard carbonate,
running about twenty-five
ounces in silver and twenty-
five per cent, in lead, be
sides a third of an ounce
in gold, which is carefully
separated at the smelter.
Much of it is so admirably
constituted that it " smelts
itself," — that is, it requires
little or no addition of lead,
iron and other accessories
to its proper fluxion. Con
tinuing the journey we be
hold alluring pictures of
mountains and caiions, of
belts ot timber and pleasant
uplands, of green meadSws
and sparkling streams beloved ot gamey trout and the haunts of deer and elk. This
country is still a paradise for the sportsman, and the rod and gun find ample
range for their employment here.
Dillon is the terminus of the Blue River branch, and is situated in a mining
country. Distance from Breckenridge, lo miles ; Frisco, 3 miles; Montezuma, 12
miles ; Decatur, 15 miles ; Rock Creek, 10 miles. The station is the nearest
point for the lower Blue River Valley, into which good roads extend. Saddle
horses and wagons can be hired to go down this river into the hunting and fishing
grounds of Middle Park. (Population, 300. Distance from Denver, 313 miles.
Elevation, 8,861 feet.)

CASCADES OF THE BLUE.

OGDEN TO SAN FRANCISCO.

OGDEN,
Kailroad and Manufac
turing Town.
Population, 33,000.
Elevation, 4,386 feet.
Distance from Denver,
7S4 miles.
Distance from San
Francisco. 883 miles.

At Ogden the tourist steps from the train of
the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad into that of the
Southern Pacific, the transfer being made with
very little trouble, and in a few minutes time, at the
fine new Union Depot. A glance around will show
one that Ogden is beautifully situated on the west
slope of the Wasatch Mountains. It is well laid out
and substantially built ; the streets are wide, reg
ular, well paved, lined with shade and ornamental
trees, and lighted with electricity. By a good system
of water works the mountain streams and springs are
made to supply an abundance of pure water. Many
of the private residences and grounds are very hand
some, and the business blocks solid and elegantly constructed. Of the climate too
much cannot be said. Utah claims the finest climate in the United States. Colorado
makes the same assertion; so does California. There is no doubt that each of these
great commonwealths has good grounds for its claims. Colorado and Utah have
similar characteristics, while California is quite different; circumstances are
said to alter cases, and this saying holds true in climate as well as in other
matters. While the climate of Colorado or Utah might be a specific for one
class of diseases, that of California might be much more beneficial for
another class. The advice of an intelligent and unprejudiced physician
should be taken before an invalid decides on his choice of location. In Utah
the winters are short and mild, and the spring and fall months give almost perfect
weather; the summers are warm but not oppressively hot, and the nights are always
cool and never moist. Pulmonary troubles will surely find relief, and generally
a cure. Ten miles north of Ogden are Hot Springs, whose sulphur water
possesses peculiar medicinal properties, and are pronounced superior to the
Arkansas Springs. Hundreds of invalids visit these springs annually, and they are
steadily growing in popularity. The educational and religious advantages of
Ogden are on a par with those of eastern cities of the same size. Here is the
centre of one of the richest agricultural and mining districts of Utah. Ogden
has better railroad facilities than any other town in the territory. It is affection
ately called by its inhabitants the "Junction City of the West." It is the terminus
of five leading trunk lines, namely: The Denver & Rio Grande, the Union Pacific,
the Southern Pacific, the Utah & Northern, and the Utah Central Railroads.
The outlook for manufacturing is excellent, the Weber River furnishing almost
unlimited water power. Iron ore is found in great quantities in the near vicinity.
while the wool clip of the territory, and those of Idaho, Wyoming, Montana and
Nevada is enormous, and could be advantageously manufactured into cloth at this
point. Geologlcai Features. Looking from the car window after passing
145

146 OVES THE RANGE
Ogden, the traveler can see many things in this region indicating a thrilling geologi-
cal history. That striation, extending along the side of the foot hills to the
right, marks the water line of a vast, pre-historic inland .sea, that shrunk ages ago
to the comparatively small proportions of Salt Lake. In all probability the whole
area between the Wasatch Mountains and the Sierra Nevadas was once an im
mense body of water, in which the mountain ranges rose as islands. The lakes
of the present day are all that remain ot this vast pre-historic sea. The deposits
which cover the low lands are chiefly calcareous, and are often filled with fresh
water and land shells, indicating a comparatively modern origin. The formation
of the islands and the shore ranges of Salt Lake is metamorphic, the strata are
distinctly marked and highly inclined, but attaining no great elevation, being
generally overlaid with sandstone and limestone of the carboniferous age, but partly
altered, the former constituting the loftier erainence, in places it is rich in fossils,
while in others it loses the granular character, and becomes sub crystalline or
threaded by veins of calcareous spar, the sandstones, from metamorphic action,
taking the character ot quartz. As the train advances, evidences of volcanic action
become numerous.
Brig'liani. A half hour's ride from Ogden brings the traveler to Brigham,
a busy little town surrounded by an agricultural settlement, but possessing nothing
of special interest to the tourist. (Population, 1,800. Distance from Ogden, 17
miles. Elevation, 4,229 feet.)
Corinne. Between Brigham and Corinne the Bear River is crossed by a
bridge twelve hundred feet in length. The town of Corinne has a good agricultural
country around it, and wherever irrigation has been secured large crops have
responded to industrious cultivation. The raising of stock, is also a tributary
industry, and cattle do well on the surrounding excellent ranges, which are found
in the greatest perfection north of the town. (Population, 500. Distance from
Ogden, 24 miles. Elevation. 4,231 feet.)
A small station surrounded by country covered
with sage brush, and only worthy of mention for its
history. At this point, on Monday, May 10, 1869,
the Union Pacific Railroad, building west and the
Central Pacific Railroad, building east, met. The
junction was made, and the news flashed all over
the world that the first great trans-continental rail
road of America had become an accomplished fact.
The importance of that event cannot be overesti
mated, and to enumerate- the results emanating from that meeting would be
the task of a historian. An epitome of what that meeting meant can be best ex.
pressed by quoting that clever and quaintly humorous poem, written by Bret
Harte, commemorative of the occasion, under the title ot
WHAT THE ENGINES SAID
What was it the Engines said.
Pilots touching — head to head.
Facing on the single track,
Half a world behind each back ?
This is what the Engines said
Unreported and unread ;
With a prefatory screech.
In a florid Western speech,
Said the Engine from the West

PROMONTORY.
A Point of
Historical Interest.

JO THE GOLDEN GATE. 147
" I am from Sierra's crest ;
And if altitude's a test,
Why, I reckon, it's confessed.
That I've done my level best.'*
Said the Engine from the East :
'¦'^ They who work best talk the least.
S'pose you whistle down your brakes ;
What you've done is no great shakes,--
Pretty fair,— but let our meetmg
Be a different kind of greeting.
Let these folks with champagne stuffing.
Not their Engines, do the/«^«^.'»
" Listen \ Where Atlantic beats
Shores of snow and summer heats ;
Where the Indian autumn skies
Paint the woods with wampum dyes,
I have chased the flying sun,
Seeing all he looked upon,
Blessing all that he has blest
Nursing in my iron breast
All his vivifying heat,
All his clouds about my crest ;
And before my flying feet
Every shadow muat retreat."
Said the Western Engine, ** Phew ! "
And a long, low whistle blew.
"Come now, really, that's the oddest
Talk for one so very modest, —
You brag of your East ! you do ?
Why, I bring the East to you /
All the Orient, all Cathay,
Find through me the shortest way.
And the sun you follow here
Rises in my hemisphere.
Really,— if one must be rude-
Length, my friend, ain't longitude.'*
Said the Union, '* Don't reflect, or
I'U run over some Director."
Said the Central, " I'm Pacific,
But, when riled, I'm quite terrific,
Yet, to-day we shall not quarrel.
Just to show these folks this moral.
How two Engines — in their vision—
Once have met without collision."
That is what the Engines said,
Unreported and unread ;
Spoken slightly through the nose,
With a whistle at the close.
Monument. Before Monument is reached the side-track stations of Rozel
and Lake are passed. At Rozel, the great Salt Lake is close to the track on the
¦left, and at Monument, a point of the same name extends into the lake. Here
we take our last view of the interesting and mysterious sea which has been our
almost constant companion since leaving Salt Lake City. Before us stretches
a vast unfertile country, and here, if anywhere, can be found that makeshift of the
easy going and old fashioned geography — the ** Great American Desert."
Kelton* This little place is situated on the eastern edge of the desert,

OVER THE RANGE.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 149
and here tne water-trains of the railroad company obtain their supply of the
aqueous fluid and deliver to the stations to the westward on this division. Look
ing to the north the traveler will see the Red Dome mountains, while to the
southeast rises Pilot Knob, a prominent feature in the landscape. (Population
small. Distance from Ogden, 92 miles. Elevation, 4,222 feet.)
Towns in tlie Desert. From Keiton to Toano the road traverses
the northern edge of the desert, amidst a scene of general desolation. In a general
way this unfertile region may be described as sixty square miles of alkaline sands,
evidently a portion of the great ocean bed already referred to. Like the arid
country, between Fruita and Green River, in Utah, through which we came,
on the Denver & Rio Grande Railroad, which only needs irrigation to become
fertile, this region is the counterpart. The stations on the desert are of no special
interest, but as a matter of record may be named as follows : — Ombey, Matliu,
Terrace, Bovine, Lucin, Gartney, Tecoma, Montello, UUin, and Loray. The
train has been ascending the grade, and from Keiton, with an altitude of 4.222
feet, to Toano. with an altitude of 5,975 feet, we have made a net gain of
1.753 feet. The mountains to the south are the Toano Range, where mines have
been discovered, and which gave a phenomenal output of ore some years
ago, but concerning which, since that time, little has been heard. The great
peak almost directly south, which has been our landmark for the last fifty miles is
Pilot Knob, rising to a height of twenty-five hundred feet directly from the
plains. This Knob was the beacon of the early emigrant by which he steered his
ship of the desert, knowing that near it lay Humboldt Wells, where plenty of
water and grass could be obtained for his almost famished stock.
Toano. A little station marking the western verge ot the desert. (Popula
tion small. Distance from Ogden, 183 miles. Elevation, 5,975 feet.)
From Toano the ascent of Cedar Pass is begun.
For 22 miles the grade is upward, though not re
markably steep, the road rising only 191 feet. The
Cedar Pass Range is comparatively low and e.x
tends from north to south, the south fork of the
Humboldt River fiows through these hills. The
Ruby Valley lies to the east, and is sixty miles long
by ten wide. The Valley is occupied by farmers
and is very fertile. There are a number of small
fakes in the valley, among which may be mentioned Ruby and Franklin.
Moors. This station occupies the summit of Cedar Pass. Snow sheds and
fences, which can be seen here and for some distance beyond, testify to the fact
that the elevation is such as to cause protection against the danger of snow block
ades (Population small. Distance from Ogden, 210 railes. Elevation, 6, 167 feet.)
WeUs. The grade has been a descending one since we left Moors, and
the descent will be continued for nearly three hundred miles. The railroad com
pany has adopted the monosyllabic title of Wells for this station, but for nearly
half a century this place has borne the popular title of " Humboldt WeUs.'' Here
the railroad repair shop and round house are located, and the town consists of these
and twenty-five or thirty other buildings, including a hotel. In this vicinity, the
emigrants in the old days of overland travel to California, were wont to make their
camp and recuperate their stock after the trying ordeal of the desert. The
wells from which the place takes its name are very curious, consisting of circular
openings in the ground varying in size, being from four to eight feet in diameter,
and filled to the brink with water. No bubbles arise on the surface of the water,

CEDAR PASS,
The Divide between the
Desert and Ham'-
boldt Valley.
Highest Elevation,
6,166 feet.

150 OVES THE RANGE
which trickles off through the grass and sinks into the porous soil. It is said that
the wells have been frequently sounded and no bottom found. The water is some
what brackish. There are about twenty of these pools in the little valley, and their
life giving influence can be seen in the abundant growth of grass. Because of
these peculiar pools Wells is a station of considerable interest to the tourist. (Pop
ulation, 300. Distance from Ogden, 219 miles. Elevation, 5,628 feet.)
Valley of tlie Humboldt. After the journey across the desert, the
Valley of the Humboldt presents a most delightful appearance to the eyes of the
traveler, who is considerably wearied by the constant view of sand and sagebrush.
The valley is eighty miles in length and ten in breadth and is occupied by agricul
turists and stock raisers. The river which makes this section of the country fertile
rises thirty miles northwest of Wells, and, flowing southwest nearly three hundred
miles, empties into Humboldt Lake, which has no outlet. The railroad follows the
river closely for two hundred and seventy miles and leaves it at Brown's Station,
where one has a fine view of the lake. The railroad follows for the greater part
of the way the north side ot the river, while the old emigrant trail, parts of which
can vet be seen, pursues its course on the opposite side of the stream.
Tulasco, Bishops, Deeth, Halleck, Peko, Osino, are all small side track
stations, useful to the residents of the valley and to the railroad, but of no especial
interest to the tourist. After passing Peko, the railroad crosses the north fork of
the Humboldt River and at Osino a canon of the same name is entered, and we
te<-we behind us the pleasant valley of the Humboldt.
Elko. This is one of the largest towns on the line since leaving Ogden.
Il j» the county seat of Elko County and is well supplied with churches, schools,
business blocks and comfortable residences. It is also the seat of the state uni
versity. Elko is an important shipping point for stock and for the output of the
Eureka, Tuscarora, White Pine and Cape mines, all being within a radius of from
twenty-five to one hundred miles. Beyond Elko some ten miles the South Fork of
the Humboldt joins the river on the south, watering along its course an excellent
grazing country. (Population, 752. Distance from Ogden, 275 miles. Eleva
tion, 5,065 feet.)
Carlin. Between Elko and Carlin is the small station of Moleen. Some
hay meadows intervene and the road passes through Five Mile Canon, where the
tourist will behold some rugged scenery. Gold and silver mines within a radius of
twenty miles are tributary to the town. (Population, 394. Distance from Ogden,
29S miles. Elevation, 4,897 feet.) Twelve Mile Canon. The road pene
trates the range of mountains (which trends from
north to south) by way of this caiion. The walls
rise on either side in rugged grandeur, attaining in
places a height of a thousand feet. From the pe
culiar stratification of the rocks, resembling that of
the famous rockwalls of the Hudson, this caiion has
been called the Palisades of the Humboldt. Red
Cliff is a striking promontory in the midst of the
caiion, stained with rubescent colors and rising
above the track for more than five hundred feet.
Palisade. This little town nestles in the heart of Twelve Mile Caiion,
and is the junction point of the Eureka and Palisade Railroad with the Southern
Pacific. The former road is a narrow gauge and was built mainly to convey ore ami"

THE PALISADES OF
THE HUMBOLDT.
Height of WaUs, 1,000
feet.
Objects of Interest,
Bed Cliff and Devil's
Peak.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE, 151
bullion to the great trunk line. Eureka, its terminus, is a mining town of about
six thousand population, engaged principally in mining. Here are stamp mills
and smelters handling fifty tons of ore daily. Palisade is the site of the machine
shops of the Eureka and Palisade Railroad and is also a great shipping point.
Beyond Palisade Station is Devil's Peak, an isolated projection on the south side
of the river, rising from the water to the height of three hundred feet.
(Population, 300. Distance from Ogden, 308 miles. Elevation, 4,840 feet.)
Cluro. A small station which stands at the lower" entrance of Twelve Mile
Caiion, and is worthy of mention for this fact.
Gravelly Ford. This place is entitled to mention because of its
historic interest. It was here that the old California trail crossed the river. The
"Ford" was often the scene of Indian raids, and the hardy pioneers and the
aborigines more than once tried conclusions here, and the blood of both the white
and the red man often stained the flow of the Humboldt.
Beowawe. At this point the Humboldt forces its way through the Red
Range of mountains forming a natural " gate,'' which is the significance of the
name Beowawe in the Indian tongue. Beyond the station the road passes through
bottom lands covered with a thick growth of shrubbery, tfae willow predominating.
To the south eight or ten miles lies Hot Springs Valley, taking its title from the
hot springs which are found there in great number. These springs are inter
mittent in their flow, .-esembling in this characteristic, though in a lesser degree,
che geysers of the Yellowstone. Beowawe is a station of no very groat commer
cial importance, but possesses interest because of the peculiar features of the sur
rounding country. (Population small. Distance from Ogden, 326 niiles. Eleva
tion, 4,695 feet.)
The Valley Region. To the north and souV.; of trie Humboldt and
nearly opposite Argenta, are several valleys; among the most j-nportant is
Paradise Valley — -to the north — sixty miles long by ten miles wide, and settled
by prosperous ranchmen. Eden Valley, also to the north, is twenty miles long by
five miles broad, and thickly settled. Reese River Valley, is to the south, of variable
width, not wider than ten miles, and about seventy-five miles in length. The Reese
River possesses the peculiarity of sinking into the sand before it reaches the Hum.
boldt, and only in times of great abundance of water does it flow beyond the poinv
of its subsidence.
Battle Mountain. Important as a shipping station for the mining
regions in the hills to the north and south ; also the junction of the Nevada Cen
tral Railroad with the Southern Pacific. This is a narrow gauge, and its southern
terminus is Austin, ninety-three miles distant from Battle Mountain, witn
a population of three thousand. The Nevada Central penetrates a rich mining
district, and not less than twenty camps contribute to its prosperity. Battit
Mountain takes its name from the range of mountains to the north of the Hum
boldt, between the Reese River and Owyhee ranges. (Population, 522. Distance
from Ogden, 359 iniles. Elevation, 4,511 feet.)
GrOlCOnda. A station for the shipment of ores supplied by adjacent
gold and silver mines. The Golconda mine is the nearest, being three miles to the
south. (Population, 400. Distance from Ogden, 402 miles. Elevation, 4,392
feet.) Winnemucca. County seat of Humboldt County. The town derives
its name from a noted Indian Chief who made his home in this region. (Popu
lation, 2,000. Distance from Ogden, 419 railes. Elevation, 4,333 feet.)

AT THE GOLDEN GATE.

HUMBOLDT.
An Oasis iu the Desert.
The Effect of Irriga
tion.
Distance from Og^dea
459 miles.
Klevation, 4,1336 feet.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 153
The Nevada Desert. We have now fairly entered upon the Nevada
Desert, which we shall travel over to the westward until Wadsworth is reached, a
distance of 138 miles. This stretch of country is the raost desolate and the raost
uninteresting of any of the deserts crossed on the transcontinental journey. It
is characterized by an alraost total absence of vegetation of any kind,' and by a
remarkable distribution of scoria, the remains of extinct volcanic action. These
deposits of black lava are scattered over a grayish expanse of sand, and are
of a general cubical form, varying in size from that of a pea to that of a good-sized
house. As the train stops at Humboldt, the passengers
are surprised to see a beautiful little park filled with
thrifty trees and carpeted with luxuriant green
sward. This oasis in the desert is the result of
irrigation, and the fountain of cold, clear water that
throws its rainbow tinted spray into the air, tells the
story as to how this magical transforraation has been
brought about. The charm of contrast is complete,
and taking all things into consideration, I know of
no place to be met with on the trip across the
continent that the tourist will regard with more
pleasure than the unexpected vision of this emerald
of the desert. Star Peak, the highest mountain in the Humboldt Range, crowned
with perpetual snow, can be seen only seven railes distant to the northeast, and
it is a pleasure to learn that the desert gives way to the Lanson Meadows five
miles to the northwest, from which large crops of hay are cut.
Kye Patch, A small station, which derives its narae from the fact that
wild rye grows here in great quantities. There is in operation here a ten-stamp
mill which is supplied with ore from the Eldorado and Rye Patch mining districts
lying to the east within a radius of fifteen miles. (Population, 65. Distance from
Ogden, 470 miles. Elevation, 4,257 feet.)
Oreana. A small station of no especial interest. A smelter is located
here, and the widened expanse of the river at this point is owing to the fact that
a dam has been thrown across it to secure water power. The railroad crosses the
Humboldt five miles west of Oreana. (Population, 55. Distance from Ogden, 480
miles. Elevation, 4,181 feet.)
Browns. At Browns station the tourist has a good view of Humboldt
Lake, as the road approaches it closely. The town itself is of minor importance.
(Population, 25. Distance from Ogden, 508 railes. Elevation, 3,929 feet.)
Mirage. Side track station, deriving its narae from the phenomenon
peculiar to the desert, which has allured many an early emigrant to destruction
through its deceptive influences. The green trees, the lake of bright water in which
can be seen the reflection of surrounding objects, which the mirage presents to
view, are only optical illusions, and those who left the beaten track to seek the
refreshment apparently at hand, frequently paid the penalty of their rashness with
their lives. (Population, small. Distance from Ogden, 520 miles. Elevation,
4,247 feet.)

154 OVER THE SANGE

THE LAKE REGION.
Facts Concerning;
Interesting;
Bodies of Water.

A glance at the map of Nevada will reveal the
fact tbat we have now reached what may very
appropriately be called the lake region. These
lakes have not the clear, sweet water which one
generally associates with the term ; but on the
contrary are brackish, and hold great quantities
of alkali and chloride of sodium in solution. The
most important of these lakes are:
Humboldt Liake. This sheet of water takes its name from the river
which flows into, or rather through it; the fact being that the waters of the river
are collected iu this basin, and are then conducted further west into Carson Sink
er Lake. All the drainage carried in the channel of the Humboldt River, in its
course of three hundred and fifty miles, is concentrated here ; the surplus, as has
been said, passing south into Carson Lake which has no outlet. Humboldt Lake is
thirty-five miles long by ten miles wide.
Carson Lake. This lake, which receives the waters of the Humboldt
River, through Carson Sink, is due south from Humboldt Lake, and has no outlet.
The map shows two distinct bodies of water, namely : Carson Sink and Carson
Lake; but during the prevalence of rain both are united, and cover a large extent
ot country. Carson Lake proper, is twenty miles long by ten wide.
Mud Lake is situated north of Granite Point, some fifty miles. The
famous " Black Rock " stands at the head of Mud Lake. This promontory is
eighteen hundred feet in height, and a strong feature in the landscape. The name
of this lake is especially descriptive of its peculiar characteristics, especially during
the su-mmer when the water is low and muddy. It has no outlet, and at its season
of greatest enlargement is fifty miles long by twenty broad.
Winnemucca Lake is of small extent, being about fifteen miles long by
ten wide ; it has connection with Pyramid Lake, which lies i* short distance to the
eastward, Py rami d Lake is made the receptacle of the waters of the Truckee River,
the outlet of Lake Tahoe, and is about twice the size of Winnemucca Lake, being
thirty miles long by twenty broad.
Walker's Lake has no outlet. It is fifty miles long by twenty wide,
and lies about a hundred miles to the south of Mirage.
Hot Springs. A small station, taking its name from the springs which
send up the steam from their heated waters on the right of the track. (Population,
42. Distance from Ogden, 535 miles. Elevation, 4,072 feet.)
Desert. This is the last station in the Nevada Desert, marking its western
boundary. From here the grade is an ascending one, and when Wadsworth is
reached, nine miles beyond, the desert will have been left entirely. (Popukiion
small. Distancefrom Ogden, 546 miles. Elevation, 4,018 feet.)
Wadsworth, The tourist finds a pleasant greeting at Wadsworth, for on
arriving at the station he sees a beautiful little park, neatly enclosed and orna
mented with a carefully kept lawn and handsome shade trees. The park is not so
extensive as that at Humboldt, but is none the less a delight after the long journey
across the desert. The town is situated on the eastern bank of the Truckee River
and is prosperous and well built. Here are located the railroad shops for this
division of the railroad, and considerable freight business is transacted with the
mining camps situated to the south. The Truckee River has its source in lakes
Tahoe and Donner, and is a pure and sparkling stream. Six miles south are the
Pine Grove Copper Mines, while ten miles south are the Desert Gold Mines

RENO.
Junctional Point.
Distance from Ogden,
589 mUes.
Population, 4,600.
Altitude, 4,49'; feet.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 155
tributary to Wadsworth. (Population, 700. Distance from Ogden, 555 miles.
Elevation, 4,085 feet). In addition to being the county-seat of Washoe
County, Reno is a thriving business centre. It
possesses all the modern improvements, including
electric lights. Its business blocks are well built
and its public buildings creditable to the city. The
town was named after General Reno, who lost his
life in the bat'de of South Mountain. This is the
junctional point for the Nevada & California Rail
road, a narrow gauge, the present terminus for
which is Moran. Here also the tourist can take
the Virginia & Truckee Railroad for Carson City,
Virginia City and points to the north and south. Condensing che statement of
connections, they are as follows : Virginia & Truckee Railroad for Carson, Virginia
and Mound House, connecting there with Carson & Colorado Railroad for Haw
thorne (stages for Aurora and Bodie), and for Belleville, Candelaria and Keeler;
Nevada & California Railroad for Moran (stages for Millford, Susanville, Quincy,
Fort Bidwell, Cal., etc. Stages can also be taken to Eagleville, Alturas, Oedarville
and Lake View or Davis Creek. Reno possesses a lively interest to the traveler,
as it is the junction point to the world famed Cornstock Mines.
Climbing the Sierra Nevada Range, After leaving Reno the
grades grow steeper, and the traveler prepares himself for the grand and striking
scenery which he will have the pleasure of beholding until the passage of the Sierra
Nevada Mountains has . been . made. For fifty miles the ascent continues until
Summit Station is reached, the highest point attained by the Southern Pacific Rail
road on its transcontinental line from Ogden to San Francisco. From Reno the
road follows up the course of the Truckee River, and soon enters Truckee Caiion.
The course of the river is tortuous and the road quickly changes sides, giving
varied and interesting views of towering rocks, foaraing waters and pine clad
mountains. In quick succession the following small stations are passed :
Verdi, Essex, Mystic, Floriston, Boca, Prosser Creek, Proctor and Winsted.
The country between Verdi and Proctor seems pretty well given up to the
production of lumber, great quantities of ties, logs and boards being piled beside
the track. The river is used as a facile means of transporting these products of
the forest. Ice store houses also abound here.
Truckee. Roofed like an alpine village to shed the deep, moist snows of
winter, Truckee stands at the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. The
town is well built and extends mainly along the north bank of the Truckee River.
Lumber is the leading industry, and where the town now stands, once stood a dense
forest. It is estiraated that the Truckee Basin will supply at least 4,000,000,000
feet of lumber, or enough to keep the saw raills going at their present rate for a hun
dred years. The round house for this division of the railroad is located here.
Truckee is the shipping point for Donner Lake and the towns of the Sierra
Valley. Stages can be taken for Lake Tahoe (fourteen miles) Donner Lake
(two miles), and Webber Lake ; also for Sierraville, Sierra City and Plumas
Eureka Mine. (Population, 1,500. Distance from Ogden, 623 miles. Elevation,
5,819 feet.)

166

OVES THE SANGE,

" There is a grandeur and enchantment at all times in the scenery whicb
environs the lakes of this region and never-ending means of pleasure and exhiU
aration on their waters; and the panorama of mountain and valley, meadow-land
and woodland, sunshine and cloud, as viewed from Tahoe City is spacious, inspir-
iiing and impressive. This view is an unspeakably fine one; within the magnificent
frame of the Tahoe range is Lake Tahoe, sometimes tranquil, sometimes turbulent
but always lovely. The summer sunsets on Lake Tahoe are remarkable for their
great beauty and wealth of coloring and are grander than those mirrored on Lakes
Como and Maggiore. No painter
would ever dare to put upon canvas
the variegated colors of Tahoe's wa
ters in a summer sunset. It would
appear such an exaggeration that he
would lose caste among those who
demand that the artist's pencil shall
be true to nature. None but those
who have witnessed the scene would
be persuaded of its reality. Such
beauty could not be were it not foi
the highly reflective qualities of the
pure translucent waters which serve
as a polished mirror of French

plate glass." Such is the glowing
language of a much traveled author,
whose words, though eloquent, fail
of depicting the entrancing loveliness
of the scenes which one can here be
hold. But it is no reflection upon
the descriptive powers of any write."
to say that he has fallen short of the
Jeality. Surely if these scenes are
^yond the powers of the artist, no
discredit can follow when the writer's
pen fails to attain to the full measure
ot their grandeur and beauty.

TAHOE
SCENERY.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 157

LAKE TAHOE,
The " Gem of the
Mountains.**
Distance from Truckee,
14 miles.
I.eng;th, of Iiake,
%'i miles.
Breadth of Lake
10 mUes.
Depth, 1,700 feet.

Lake Tahoe, one of the most beautiful moun-
tain lakes in the world, lies in the heart of the
Sierras, 6,2i6 feet above the sea, while mountain
peaks surround it, rising to an additional height ol
from two to four thousand feet. It is 22 railes in
length, 10 railes in breadth and from loo to 1,700
feet in depth. Its waters are faraous the world over
for their crystal purity, and their transparency is so
absolute that the fish, which abound in great
numbers, can be seen distinctly as they swim
beneath you, at a distance of eighty feet. On its
lovely shores are situated some of the raost delight
ful sumraer resorts. The mid-suramer air is cool
and invigorating, the hunting and fishing excellent
and the landscape picturesque and a never-ending delight to the eye. The ride by
stage from Truckee to the lake, is a most charming experience, and is thus
described by Mr. N. H. Chittenden, a traveler of some distinction : " It was a
glorious morning, bright and cool, a rain having fallen the previous evening,
tempering the dry mountain air, fragrant with the sweet odor of the pines, to a
delicious, exhilarating freshness, and also effectually laying the dust. It is a
magnificent drive, foUowing up the dashing Truckee, a fitting outlet for the
world's crowning gem of mountain lakes. From thirty to fifty feet in width,
clear as crystal pure and cold, it courses swiftly down the mountains, frequently
a foaming rapid, but interrupted in its headlong descent by several dams. The
valley is from three-quarters to a mile across, the mountains generally not precipitous
or very high, though presenting sev«ral bold, towering granite cliffs and peaks from
five hundred to one thousand and eight hundred feet above the river. The most prom
inent of these, from their resemblance to the human face, are known as the ' Old
Woraan ' and ' Old Man ' of the mountains, and the ' Duke of Wellington.' Thick
forests of red, yellow and sugar pine, fir and cedar, extend, the whole way,
except where cleared by the lumbermen. The great saw mill corapanies are
annually cutting millions of feet of the choicest trees, having already advanced
about eight miles up the river and back three or four railes therefrom. The lum
ber flumes extend from the great mills at Truckee to the farthest camps, and the
sides of the mountains are grooved with log chutes. Down the former are run vast
quantities of wood and timber, while down the latter immense logs are shot, with
the velocity of thunderbolts, into the river. At the Eight-Mile Crossing, a five-foot
monster plunged in as we passed, striking a forerunner fairly endwise, with
terrific force, and the noise of distant thunder. Horse railways and long ox teams
nre also employed in hauling out the logs from over the summit of the mountains."
The tour of the lake is raade by an excursion steamer which is taken at Tahoe
City. The surroundings of the lake are picturesque in the extreme. Beginning at
the right, the coronet of mountains,' which surrounds the lake, raay be named as
follows: the Rubicon Peaks, 9,287 feet above the sea; Mount Tallac, 9,715 feet
in height ; Mount Ralston, 9,140 feet; Pyramid Peak, 10,052 feet; Job's Peak,
10,637 feet; Geneva Peak, 9.135, and the summits of the Tahoe Range. Down the
steep, forest-covered sides of these mountains swiftly descend numerous beautiful
streams, Ward's Creek, Blackwood's, McKinney's, Phipp's, Meek's Bay, Lonely
Gulch, Cascade Falls, Cascade Lake, Taylor, Little Truckee River, Big Truckee
River, Jim Small's Creek, Sevory Cove Creek, Glenbrook, Secret Harbor, Big,
Griffin's, Cornelian Bay and Gordon's Creek being the most important.

•¦ *i*£^i

DONNER AND WEBBER LAKES.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 159
The shores of Lake Tahoe are indented with beautiful bays, Crystal, Corne
lian, Meeks and Emerald, the latter being the largest and most frequented. It is
about eighteen miles from Tahoe City, three miles long, and about half a mile in
width. Ben HoUaday built a summer residence here, which his family occupied
until it was burned in 1879.
Capt. Dick, an eccentric old English sailor, chose this wild mountain retreat
for his home, built a cabin, and chiseled out a tomb in the solid rock, on the lonely
rock-bound island near the entrance. Falling overboard, while intoxicated. Lake
Tahoe, which it is said, never gives up its dead, became his last resting-place, in
stead of the grave he had prepared.
The shores of the lake are dotted with summer residences and pleasure resort
villages. Among the latter may be mentioned Tahoe City, Glenbrook, Tallac,
Rowlands and McKinneys. Glenbrook is a very pretty village and is the business
centre for Lake Tahoe. The thousand and one attractions of this lovely lake can
obtain but little justice in so brief a description as can be given here; indeed, the
most elaborate description would fall far short of the reality, and only he who has
had the extreme good fortune to visit the spot can form an adequate idea of its charms.
Donner Lake. Made memorable by the
terrible fate of the Donner party, thirty-four of
whom died of starvation on its shores in the year
1846, and taking its name from the leader of this
unfortunate company, Donner Lake commands
especial attention for its historical associations. Its
beauty gives it a leading position among the lakes
of the Sierras and has been made familiar through
the well known paintings, by Bierstadt. Only three
miles from Truckee, it is easy of access. It is about
three miles long, one and a half miles wide, and
two hundred and fifty feet deep. Its shores are
gravelly and the lake is surrounded by great forests of pine, fir and tamarack.
Webber Lake, a perfect gem, lies in the Sierra Nevadas, about twenty-
six miles from Truckee, at an altitude of 6,925 feet above the sea level. It is
circular in shape ; its waters crystal white, and with a depth of eighty-fouf feet.
It is considered one of the finest fishing grounds in California, the trout being
large and numerous, garaey and delicious. About three-quarters of a mile away
from the lake are the falls, having a descent of 105 feet.
Independence Lake, sixteen miles from Truckee, and ten railes from
Webber, is another one of those beautiful gems. It is two and one-half miles long
and three-quarters of a mile wide. Its waters are alive with trout.
Climbing the Sierra Nevada Range. The ascent of the Sierras
begins at Truckee. In order to protect travelers from delay in inclement weather,
the railroad company have constructed an almost uninterrupted line of snow
sheds for forty miles. These sheds interrupt the view, but they serve an
eminently practical purpose and are necessary for winter travel. Through the
loopholes cut in the sides of the sheds the tourist catches tantalizing glimpses
of magnificent scenery. Donner Lake can be seen below us, gleaming like a dia
mond in its granite setting, while a panorama of pine-clad hills and splintered
mountain pinnacles is spread before us. Plunging onward through the snow sheds,
the two great engines drag the train upward, while below can be seen the winding
roadway we are ascending. Rumbling through a tunnel the train comes to a halt
on the highest railroad point in the Sierras.

DONNER, WEBBER,
ANO
INDEPENDENCE LAKES.
Waters of Crystal
Whiteness.

160 OVES THE SANGE

SUMMIT.
The Highest KaUroad
Point in the Sierra
Nevadas.
Blevation, 7,017 feet.
Distance from Ogden,
638 miles.

Appropriately named, this station is the sam-
mit of our railroad ascent. For many years it
held the pre-eminence as the highest railroad point
in North America, and it still deserves renown
as the first to lay claim to so lofty an estate. This
is the "divide" frora which flow various streams
through devious courses to empty at last at widely
divergent points into the great Sacramento. Among
these streams are the Bear, the American and the
South Yuba Rivers. The scenery around Summit is
of the grandest description. The mountains tower above us to an altitude of ten
thousand feet. Lakes lie below us and waterfalls glimmer down the sides of dis
tant precipices. Here the sportsman can find ample scope for enjoyment. Bear
and deer and a vast variety of game haunt the wooded fastnesses and the streams
abound in trout. The east-bound tourist who wishes to visit Lakes Tahoe and
Donner can take the stage at Summit, and, after enjoying tlie delights of the
mountain drive and an unobstructed view of the scenery, together with a satisfying
visit to the lakes, can again resume his journey by taking the cars at Truckee, thus
avoiding the up grade return to Summit.
Cascade. Six miles beyond Summit we pass Cascade, crossing a branch ot
the Yuba River. To the westward lies Summit Valley, a charming spot for a sum
mer resting place. It is well watered and abounds in luxuriant meadows, which
are utilized by stock and dairy men, who have found here an ideal spot for their
purposes. Cascade is a growing shipping point for cattle and their products.
(Population, 28. Distance from Ogden, 644 miles. Elev.ition, 6,538 feet.)
Soda Springs. Many large soda springs give their name to this side
track. Their waters are pleasant to the taste and medicinal in character. One of
the springs has been improved and its waters are bottled for shipment. There are
also hot springs in the near vicinity. (Population small. Distance from Ogden,
647 miles. Elevation, 6,749 feet.)
Emigrant Gap. Here we catch the last sight of the old emigrant wagon
road, which we have seen from time to time for the last two hundred and fifty
miles. (Population, 120. Distance frora Ogden, 659 miles. Elevation, 5,221 feet.)
Blue Canon, Shady Run, Towles, and Alta, are small stations which we pass
in rapid succession.
Dutch Flat. Population, 700. (Distance from Ogden, 675 miles. Eleva
tion, 3,595 feet.)
Historic Ground. To the "men of '49" the naraes of Alta and
Dutch Flat call up many memories of stirring times. The stages still run from
Dutch Flat to "You Bet "and " Little York,"where mines are still worked;
but the palmy days made historic by the achievements of the " John Oakhursts,"
" Sandy MoGees," and " Hank Monks" have passed away. A glimpse can be
caught of a scenic attraction of paramount interest as the train passes Shady Run.
This is the faraous American Caiion, with walls two thousand feet high, and of
such wonderful perpendicularity that the American River, which flows between
them, has never been ascended for a distance of two miles — the extent of the canon.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE, 161

CAPE HORN.

A Scenic Wonder.

There are few mountain passes more famous
than that known to the world as "Cape Horn."
The approach to it is picturesque. The north
fork of the American River is seen raging and
foaming in its rocky bed, fifteen hundred feet
below and parallel with the track. A little further
on we see the north fork of the North River leap
ing in snowy cascades down the mountain side.
The train rolls on and soon is clinging to the side
of a mountain wall, which climbs to the clouds above it and drops to the waters
beneath ; a hand thrust from the window of the car could drop a stone straight
as the plummet falls, into the chasm, two thousand five hundred feet below. We
are rounding Cape Horn ! The road having been carved from the solid rock,
the workmen, when building the sarae were suspended frora the cliff above by
means of ropes until they had blasted sufficient to gain a foothold. A beautiful
valley lies beneath us to the left, and across this vale on the opposite side can be
seen the line of road on which we shall soon appear. The descent now begins, and
Rice's Ravine is crossed, the trestle bridge being S78 feet in length and 113 feet in
height. The narrow gauge railroad, which we see beneath us, is the line frora
Colfax to Nevada City. From the trestle we pass to an embankment, and frora
the erabankment to the solid roadway on the side of the bluff. We have followed
the curving road until now we are opposite the tremendous precipice, from whose
fearful height we have but just descended.
Colfax. Named after the statesman, Schuyler Colfax, a steadfast friend to
the Southern Pacific Railroad during the early days of its existence. This town is
thriving and prosperous. Fruit raising has taken the place of the original industry
of mining, and the financial results appear to be erainently satisfactory. There is
a large and handsome depot erected at this place, it being the distributing point
for Grass Valley, Nevada City, and a large area of agricultural and mining
country. The trains of the Nevada County Railroad (narrow gauge) run to and
from this depot. (Population, 700. Distance from Ogden, 68g railes. Elevation,
2,422 feet )
Auburn. The approach to Auburn is raade through a rugged country, a
tunnel seven hundred feet in length being passed just before reaching Clipper Gap
— beyond this can be seen the famous gold fields, now abandoned. The town of
Auburn is embowered with fruit trees, is well-built and prosperous. Many of the
residents of San Francis::o and Sacramento spend a part of their summers at this
mountain town. Fruit raising has usurped the place of mining among these foot
hills of the western slope — vineyards, orchards and vegetable gardens, are now
seen on all sides. This condition of things exists all along the slope, and for a
distance of twenty miles we pass through California's semi tropical fruit belt. The
quarrying of stone and stock raising are also important industries. (Population,
1,700. Distance from Ogden, 707 miles. Elevation, 1,360 feet.)
Newcastle. Is situated in the midst of a rich farming region, and is an
important shipping point for all California fruits. Here are also a number of
extensive canniflg and fruit drying establishments, with unlimited capacity. The
early citrous fruits are grown and shipped from this point. (Population, 350. Ele
vation, 956. Distance from Ogden, 712 miles.)
Bocklin. This little town lies at the base of the foothills, and is famed for
the excellent quality of the granite found in its quarries. The round house and
machine shops of the railroad company located here are built of this material.

CAPITOL BUILDING, SACRAMENTO.

TO THE GOLDEN PATE. 163
The State House at Sacramento is also erected of Rocklin granite. (Population,
1,100. Distance from Ogden, 721 miles. Elevation, 249 feet.)
Junction. This station is the junction point for the east side of the great
Sacramento Valley and Portland, Oregon ; it is here the branch of the Southern
Pacific Railroad intercepts the main Transcontinental Line. (Population, 350.
Distance from Ogden, 725 miles. Elevation, 163 feet.)
The PiaiuS Kegion. A glance from the car window, or a reference to
the elevation of Junction Station, given in the paragraph above, will show the
tourist that the region of mountains and foothills lies behind hira, and that the
fertile plains of California have been reached. Broad expanses of gently rolling
country greet the eye, dotted here and there with the round-topped, dark-foliaged
live oaks, which form strikingly characteristic features in the landscape. Here
and beyond in the Sacramento Valley are the great wheat fields of the State, faraous
in the past for their enormous yield and the magnificent scale upon which the
raising of this cereal is carried on. Now, however, fruit raising is gradually
usurping this territory, and orchards and vineyards are frequently seen.
American JSiver Bridge. This bridge spans the current of the
American River, and Sacramento is only three miles distant. (Distance from
Ogden, 740 miles. Elevation, 49 feet.) As is the almost universal rule in the case
of large cities one gets a very unsatisfactory view
of the town from the railroad station. Several
days can be pleasantly and profitably spent by the
tourist in Sacramento. It is handsomely built, and
its shaded streets and flower ornamented yards pre
sent an exceedingly attractive appearance. It has
a complete system of electric street railways.
Being the capital of California, the county seat of
Sacramento County, and the second commercial city
in the State, it has a most prosperous present and proraising future. More trains
arrive and depart each day than in any other town or city in the State.
Sacramento, being the geographical centre, it is the great distributing point
for California. Three-fourths of all the fruits shipped from this State each
year are shipped from this point. It is at this place all the principal buyers
and shippers locate for the purchase of fruits and vegetables. The Southern
Pacific Company's shops (which employ from 2,000 to 3,000 men constantly,
covering an area of twenty-five acres of iand), the largest cannery and
packing houses in the State, a woolen mill, foundry, raachine shops, etc.,
are located in Sacramento. For a manufacturing town, the location of
Sacramento cannot be excelled. It is ninety miles from San Francisco, with
which it is connected by numerous daily trains, and by river steamers. Many of its
wholesale houses rival those at San Francisco in the amount of business transacted.
It has tine wide streets lined with shade trees, many substantial business blocks,
elegant residences, and good hotels. The State Capitol, State Printing Office,
State Agricultural Exposition Building (the largest west of the Missouri river), a
Free Library, the largest Art Gallery (with one or two exceptions) in the United
States, an Old Ladies' Home (where old ladies have the same care and attention,
if not better, than they would have in their own homes), are located in Sacra
mento, the two latter were donated to the city by that most estimable and philan
thropic of ladies, Mrs. E. B. Crocker. In fact, Sacramento is the srreat metronoHo
of the Sacramento valley.

SACRAMENTO,

California's Capital.

Population, 33,000.

Klevation, 30 feet.

Distance fronoi Ogden,

743 miles.

164 OVES THE SANGE
The first railroad in California, extending from Sacramento into El Dorado
County, was formally opened on February 22d, 1856. Work on the Central Pacific
Railroad was inaugurated at Sacramento, January Sth, 1863, and the last spike was
driven May loth, 1869. Sacramento is on the line of the California & Oregon,
Western Pacific, Central Pacific, California Pacific, and Sacramento & Placerville
Railroads. All these roads are of the Southern Pacific System. The Company's
principal hospital, is also located in this city. A line of steamboats runs to
San Francisco on the Sacramento River and the bay, and another as far up the
same streara as Red Bluff. The Sacramento River is spanned opposite the
city by a railroad and wagon bridge, connecting it with the town of Washington,
Yolo County ; and the American River is bridged on the line of Twelfth
street, and also by a railroad bridge a short distance above. All the bridges
in the county and all roads are free. The Capital of California was permanently
located at Sacramento, February 25th, 1854, and in 1869 the present Capitol
Building was completed, at a cost of about $3,000,000. The building is the
finest in the state. In the Capital Park are also the exposition pavilion of the
State Agricultural Society, and the State Printing Office, in which are printed, in
addition to the usual work for the State, the text-books for use in the public
schools. The State Agricultural Society has also an extensive park for the
exhibition of stock, and one of the finest race tracks in the world. The State fairs
are annually held in September. The Masons and Odd Fellows have each imposing
temples, in which their lodge rooms are located. The United States Government
has erected a Post Office Building, for which an appropriation of $100,000
was made. The County Court House (formerly used for a State Capitol)
cost $200,000 ; and a brick and iron Ha 1 of Records has recently been
comp'eted at a cost of $50,000. The County Hospital built on the pavilion
plan, can accoramodate one hundred and seventy-five patients, and cost
$75,000. The State Library contains some sixty thousand volumes; the Free
Public Library, of twelve thousand volumes, with the two story building in which
it is contained, is the property of the City, and is maintained by a City tax.
The Order of Odd-Fellows maintain a library of about eight thousand volumes.
The Crocker Art Gallery is also the property of the City. It is a brick and iron
building, three stories high, and in it are contained some of the finest paintings
and statuary, together with an extensive cabinet of minerals, the property of the
State. Webster, Leaving Sacramento, and crossing the Sacramento River on
a bridge 600 feet in length, the train passes through Webster, which is a
suburb of the city. Beyond we cross a belt of swampy country known locally as
" The Tules." The track is elevated above the danger of floods by means of
embankments and a trestle bridge.
Davis. This place is the junction with the main line of a branch passing
through the west side of the Sacramento Valley to Tehama, the cotfntry round
about being rich and fertile, and capable of producing an unlimited araount of
fruit, cereals and vegetables. "Distance from Ogden, 736 miles.
Fremont, Dixon, Batavia are soon passed, when we arrive at

TO THE GOLDEN CATE.

165

ELMIRA.
Junction Point
to
Taca and Capay
VaUeys.

At this point the tourist will do well to take the
side trip through the great Vaca and Capay Valleys.
These valleys supply all the earliest fruits and
vegetables. The soil is of surprising fertility,
yielding bountifully of every crop with no necessity
for irrigation. The climate is superb, it being a
continual Indian summer the entire year. The
health of the inhabitants, their industry, wealth and
prosperity, have all tended to make this place the
most desirable for settlement. Semi-tropical and citrus fruits grow luxuriantly,
and are of unusual size and lusciousness. These valleys are veritable gardens of
Eden, and a continuous panorama of a beautiful and picturesque country.
Cannon and Suisun are more or less important stations, but of no especial
interest to the tourist. Having passed Suisun the waters of Suisun Bay approach
the track, and at high tide ripple against the embankment. For twelve miles
this bay is always in close proximity.
Army Point. Distance from Ogden, 797 miles. This is the station for
the headquarters of the United States army in California.
Senicia. Situated on the southern slope of the Suscol hills, Benicia extends
down to the bank of the Sacramento River. This is the head of navigation for
sea-going ships and is a very charmingly situated city. Benicia was at one tira.e
the capital of California, but is now a quiet residence town, with a number of
large manufacturing interests to maintain its commercial importance. (Population,
2,400. Distance from Ogden, 800 miles. Elevation, 10 feet.)
Crossing the Straits of Carquinez. From Benicia to Port Costa
the journey is continued on the Solano, the largest ferry boat in the world. This
boat can transport at one tirae fifty-four loaded freight cars and consequently finds
no difficulty in bearing our entire train safely across the straits, a distance of one
mile, with an expenditure of little if any more than twenty rainutes of time. To
most, this experience is a novel one, and the cars are quickly emptied by their
occupants, and the tourists gaze delightedly at the broad expanse of waters and
inhale gratefully the invigorating saline odors wafted from the neighboring ocean.
The cars are run directly on to the boat and when Port Costa is reached the
journey by rail is resumed.
Port Costa. Here the sea-going ships can be seen lying close to the
wharfs, and the tourist begins to appreciate the fact that his long journey to the
Pacific coast is nearly completed. At this point the Southern Pacific's line to Los
Angeles branches to the southwest.
Vallejo Junction. The town of Vallejo lies across the straits a distance
of two miles. At this junction a branch line runs to Napa and Calistoga, also to
Santa Rosa.
Pinole. Another town of wharfs and warehouses.
Sixteenth Street, Oakland. This is the small station for the large city
of Oakland. The great Bay of San Francisco lies to our right and beyond can be
seen the spires of San Francisco.
Oakland Pier. This marvel of engineering has been constructed for two
miles directly out into the bay. At its terminus is an immense building containing
waiting rooms and all necessary accommodations for the convenience of the great
army of travelers who disembark on the arrival of trains. All the passenger trains
for the east, north or south are made up at this depot, and here all incoming
passengers leave their trains and are transported on magnificent ferry boats to San
Francisco.

APPROACHES TO OAKLAND FERRV

SAN FRANCISCO TO SAN DIEGO.

SAN

FRANCISCO.

The Oreat City |

by

The

Gotden Gate.

PopuU^tion, 1

400,000'.

The first yiew of San Francisco which the over
land tourist obtains frora the bow of the ferry boat
that bears him from Oakland Pier to the foot of
Market street, is most enchanting. A city set on a
hill, beautiful for situation, it comraands attention
and demands the most enthusiastic adrairation.
Nor does "farailiarity breed contempt." The first
pleasant impression is confirmed and deepened by
every day's experience within the gates of this raost
hospitable and beautiful city. Fitz Hugh Ludlow,
whose early death was a great loss to literature, if
one may judge by the early fruitage of a tree toe
soon cut down by Ciuel frost, speaks glowing words, and true ones of this city by
the sea. He says: " To a traveler paying his first visit, it has the interest of a new
planet. It ignores the meteorological laws which govern the rest of the world.
There is no snow. There are no summer showers. The tailor recognizes no
aphelion or perihelion in h;s custom; the thin woolen suit made in April, is com-
fortably worn until April again. Save that in so-called winter frequent rain-
falls alternate with spotless intervals of amber weather, and that soi-disani
summer is an entire amber raass, its unbroken divine days concrete in it,
there is no inequality on which to forbid the bans between May and Deceraber. In
San Francisco there is no work for the scene-shifter of Nature. The wealth of
that great dramatist, the year, resulting in the same manner as the poverty of
dabblers in private theatricals — a single flat doing service for the entire play.
Thus, save for the purposes of notes of hand, the almanac of San Francisco might
replace its mutable months and seasons with one great, kindly, constant, sumptu
ous All the Year 'Round. Out of this benignant sameness what glorious fruits are
produced ! Fruit enough, metaphorical ; tor the scientific raan or artist who
cannot make hay while such a sun shines, from April to November, must be a
slothful laborer, indeed. But, fruit also literal ; for what joy of vegetation is lack
ing to the man who, every month in the year, can look through his study window
on a green lawn, and have strawberries and cream for his breakfast. Who can sit
down to this royal fruit, and at the same tirae to apricots, peaches, nectarines,
blackberries, raspberries, melons, figs, both yellow and purple, early apples and
grapes of many kinds."
But aside from the claims of climate, which appealed so strongly to Ludlow,
San Francisco has artistic and architectural claims that command respect and
admiration, to say nothing of her vast coramercial and mercantile interests.
San Francisco has suffered greatly from fire in the past, but has always
arisen from its ashes in renewed beauty. A condensed history of these great
conflagrations may be of interest : 167

168 OVES THE SANGE
December Z4th, 1849. Fi'^^' great fire. More than $1,000,000 worth of
property destroyed.
May 4th, 1850. Second great fire. Three blocks of buildings consumed.
Loss, $4,000,000.
June 14th, 1850. Third great fire. Loss, $5,000,000.
September 17th, 1850. Fourth great fire. An extensive area of compara
tively inexpensive buildings destroyed. Loss, $500,000.
December 14th, 1850. Fire on Sacramento and Montgomery streets. Loss,
$1,000,000. This is not generally classed among the great fires.
May 4th, 1851. Fifth great fire. Eighteen blocks entirely burned, and parts
of six others destroyed. The length of the burned district was three-fourths oi a
mile, and its width half a mile. Loss, $10,000,000 to $12,000,000.
June 22d, 1851. Sixth great fire. Ten blocks and parts of six others des.
troyed. Loss, $3,000,000.
When the Oakland ferry boat, a most magnificent steamer by the way, enters
her pier at the foot of Market street, the traveler will find ample means of convey
ance to any hotel. If of an economical turn of mind he can board a cable car,
after running the gauntlet of vociferous "cabbies," and for five cents be carried
smoothly and quickly to almost any part of the city ; or, handing his baggage
checks to one of the agents of the United Carriage Company, he can drive to his
destination in considerable more "style," and at a moderate expense, the amount
being determined by the distance traveled — but extortion need not be feared, as
cab fares are regulated by a city ordinance. Once at home in hotel or lodgings —
and San Francisco can furnish either of these of the very best character — the
traveler can map out excursions in the city and its environs that will pleasantly
c.-cupy his time for a fortnight, or which can be crowded into the space of three
or four days. Everybody has heard of the Cliff House and
the Seal Rocks. These attractions are pretty sure
to command first attention. The Cliff House may
be reached by three routes These are tersely
described by Mr. Charles Turrell, in his valuable
California notes, as follows : " One of these routes
is the old road that begins at the Mission and winds
over the hills, affording many attractive views of the
city and the bay beyond, the Contra Costa Mount
ains and Mount Diablo towering in the remote east.
This road descends to the Ocean beach, passing near Merced Lake — Laguna de la
Merced— the largest lake in the county. From the Ocean Side House to the Cliff
House, a distance of some two and a half miles, the road follows the sandy beach.
As this road is quite long, and the latter part very heavy, but few follow it. An
other route is by Point Lobos avenue, a broad, well macadamized street, com
mencing at the western end of Geary street and continuing in a straight line to the
Ocean beach. This was for many years the fashionable drive for San Franciscans.
However, since the Golden Gate Park has been opened, and its serpentine drives to
the beach completed, the Point Lobos road has fallen into disuse." This drive is
the one we took, and we found it a most charraing way. The Haight street cable
car for Golden Gate Park took our party to the entrance of the Park, and here a
carriage was engaged for the drive to the Cliff House and return ; thus economy
was subserved and nothing of pleasure lost. The Park, though in a state of tran
sition from wild land to a cultivated Paradise, presented many most charming

CLIFF HOUSE
AND
SEAL ROCKS
Novel and
Characteristic Attractions.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

169

views. The abundance of natural flowers, the flora new to our unaccustomed
eyes, the conservatory abounding in tropical flowers, the shaven lawns, and the
artistically arranged trees and shrubbery, were objects of great interest. From
Inspiration Point we obtained a fine view ot the Pacific Ocean and the Golden
Gate. The most characteristic objects of interest at the terminus of this drive, are
the Seal Rocks and their curious occupants. The rocks are conical in shape, three
in nuraber, and vary in height from twenty to fifty feet. These rocks are the
haunts of seals, and it is said that there is never a moraent when scores of these
curious marine mammals may not be seen basking in the rays of the sun on these
rocks, or struggling among themselves for a place thereon. These seals are pro-

VIEWS FROM THE CLIFF HOUSE
tected by law, and there is, therefore, no great danger of
future travelers visiting Seal Rocks only to be disappointed.
San Francisco Bay. As a harbor ii
ranks among the few great seaports of the world.
A land-locked sheet ot water, some fifty railes long
and of varying width. It has the advantage of
lying at the central edge of a great area of agricul
tural land. The shipments through this port are
very heavy, giving constant employraent to a large
fleet of steamers and sailing-vessels. It is also the
terminal point of the great transcontinental routes.
If the tourist will take a seat on the dummy of
either the California Street or Jackson Street cable cars and ride as far as Mason
Street, the trip will be amply rewarded. Perhaps the best time to view this mag
nificent panorama would be in the forenoon. To the left we have the Golden Gate,
the wonderfully beauteous entrance to the still more beautiful bay ; to the right
the sheet of water merges into the distant hills bordering the Santa Clara Valley.
Before us lie, in semi-circular form, Mt. Tamalpais, standing on the northem side

SAN FRANCISCO BAY.

A Beautiful Sheet

of Water and

I.and - liocked Harbor

of

Inestimable Value.

BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF SAN FRANCISCO, CAU

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 171
of the Golden Gate ; Saucelito, San Pablo Bay, the debouchere ai California's two
great rivers — the Sacramento and San Joaquin ; then we have the Contra Costa
Mountains and, just beyond. Mount Diablo's graceful peak, while nestling at their
base we distinctly trace the towns of Berkeley, Oakland, Alameda, Haywards,
and Oakland Pier. The steamers of the ferry lines may be viewed ploughing their
rapid way to and from San Francisco. Close to the Pier, Goat Island rises three
hundred and forty feet out of the water. It is the most southerly island in the
bay, save the Mission Rock, now surrounded by warehouses, etc. West of Goat
Island is Alcatra? Island, situated about one mile due east of the Golden Gate,
whose entrance it commands. It is one-third of a mile long and one-tenth of a
mile wide, irregular in shape and contains about twelve acres, composed mainly of
solid rock. A perfect belt of batteries surround the island, mounting several
very heavy guns on all sides as well as on the top. On the highest point of the
island stands a light-house, whose light can be seen, on a clear night, twelve miles
at sea, outside of the Golden Gate. Next in succession is Angel Island, three
miles north of San Francisco, the largest and most valuable island in the bay. It
contains six hundred acres of excellent land, watered in many places by natural
springs. Three fixed batteries, mounting large, heavy guns, are here, besides
large barracks, accommodating the garrison. On the bay we see craft of every
kind, from the tiny skiff to the monster six-masted ocean steamers. Scows and
steamers may be seen in every direction ; the propeller, the paddler are all here in busy
activity. Fringing the water front is a forest of masts, the black hulls from whence
they spring being scarcely visible on account of the long line of the sea-wall and
warehouses that intercept the view. In every direction, lying peacefully at anchor,
are vessels just arrived or about to depart. Here, too, snugly harbored, are the
little yachts of the different clubs — white-winged birds of pleasure.
There are several " squares" in San Francisco, the most noted of which is
Portsmouth Square, with an area of 275 by 204 feet 2 inches. Its history is
important. On July 8th, 1846, Captain Montgomery, of the United States
sloop-of-war Portsmouth, then lying in the bay, at the command of Coramodore
Sloat, raised the American flag on the plaza of what was then called " Verba
Buena " — now San Francisco. A salute of twenty-one guns from the Portsmouth
announced the fact that the United States had taken possession of Northern
California. This square was then named Portsmouth Square, and at the sarae time
Montgomery street was named in honor of the Captain.
Telegraph Hill is dear to the hearts of old Californians. In 1849 a signal
station was established on this elevation, and the dwellers at the " Bay" were
notified of the approach of vessels frora sea by means of a well understood system
of signals. A tract of 275 feet square on the summit of the hill has recently been
purchased by some public spirited citizens and presented to the city for a perpetual
park. Many tourists take interest in the cemeteries o£ a city ; to such a brief mention
of those in San Francisco will be interesting. Most of these "cities of the dead " are
best reached via the Geary Street Cable Railway. Laurel Hill Cemetery, near the
foot of a solitary hill, called Lone Mountain, presents the finest examples of
mausoleum architecture in California. Landscape gardening contributes greatly to
the beauty of the scene.
The four principal cemeteries of the city surround Lone Mountain. They are
" Laurel Hill," " Calvary," the Roman Catholic burial ground, and the cemeteries
of the Masons and the Odd-Fellows.

172

OVES THE SANGE

The oldest building in San Francisco and the
one most noted, considered historically, is the Mission
Church, on the corner of Dolores and Seventeenth
Streets. Considerable of the original building re
mains and many of the interior decorations have
been, to a certain degree, retained in their pristine
state— sufficient to recall the times of the early
fathers. The adobe walls are three feet thick, rest
ing on a low foundation of rough stone, not laid in mortar ; and the roof is covereQ
with heavy semi-cylindrical tiles. The floor is of earth, except near the altar, and
the entire structure rude in character and still used for purposes of worship.

THE
MISSION DOLORES.
Oldest Building in
San Francisco.
Founded Oct. 8, 1776.

^-ts^^

IN SAN FRANCISCO BAY

Adjoining it is the Mission Cemetery, not used for purposes ot interment since
1858. Many of the inscriptions on the tombs are in Spanish. Clustering around
the mission are a few adobe buildings, red tiled but dilapidated, yet speak to the
thoughtful of five score years and more. It is best reached by taking the Castro
Street cable car of the Market Street Railway.
The theatres are numerous and first class, but English theatres are the same
in kind the world over, and need no special description. Not so, however, with
the Chinese theatre. This is sui generis, entirely novel and of remarkable interest.
There are two of these theatres in San Francisco, and the histrionic peculiarities of
the Celestial draraa can here b'e seen in greater perfection than in any other city in
the world, with the exception of those of China. There is no danger in visiting
these theatres, as they are as well conducted, in their peculiar Chinese way, as any
other place of amusement ; but if there is a party, especially if it contains ladies
the escort of a guide should be secured. Through his influence and acquaintance
seats can be obtained upon the stage, and a fine view of the wonderful perform-

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.
ance obtained. The stage has no scenery. The orchestra occupies the back of
the stage, and the most industrious member of it is the man who manipulates the
big bronze cymbals and the gongs. This fellow punctuates the dialogue with
vigorous blows on his loud resounding instruments, giving to the draraa the
characteristic of operatic recitative. The other instruments are the Chinese violin
and fife. The result is a queer kind of barbaric harmony, but to the English ear
there is absolutely no melody. The " property " man sits on the stage in full vie w
of the audience and supplies the actors with such properties as they raay need
during the action of the play. The actors are masters of their art. They possess
great facial mobility, and even through their conventional ' ' make up " one can
recognize their histrionic ability. No women are allowed to act in the Chinese
dramas, and all female characters are played by men. These actors are exceedingly
clever, and in voice and action imitate the weaker sex most admirably. A good
female impersonator receives a very large salary from the management. Whenever
it is necessary to personate a death upon the stage, the actor lies quietly for a
moraent, and then calmly rises and walks off. A stick with a tuft of horse hair
represents a horse, and a gesture of the leg signifies that the cavorting animal has
been mounted. Atter all, these conventionalities are not much raore crude than
those of the Shakesperian age. The draraas are historical, and sorae of thera are
more extended even than a Wagnerian triology — requiring frora three to four weeks
to present a single play.
It would be vain for the writer to attempt to give a circurastantial description
of the attractions of San Francisco. It would require a volume, and the pen of a
Bayard Taylor to do the city justice. As a convenience for strangers, the follow
ing list of places of amusement and points of general interest is annexed :
New Baldwin Theatre — Baldwin Hotel. Market and Powell.
The Alcazar — O'Farrell street, between Stockton and Powell.
Bush Street Theatre— Bush street, above Montgomery.
Stockwell's Theatre — Powell street, opposite Baldwin Hotel.
TivoLi Opera House — Eddy street, near Baldwin Hotel. Grand operatic
performance every evening. Grand orchestra and chorus. Admission, 25 cents.
Extra to reserve.
Wigwam Theatre— Geary and Stockton streets. Admission, 10 cents and
25 cents. Panorama Building — Corner Tenth and Market streets. Open daily (Sun
days included) from 9 a. m. to 11 p. m. Admission, 50 and 25 cents.
"Orpheum" Opera House — O'Farrell street, opposite "Alcazar." Ad
mission, 25 cents. Extra to reserve.
MoROSCO's Grand Opera House — Mission street near Third street.
Chinese Theatre— Grand Chinese Theatre, 814 Washington street. Per
formances every evening by full Chinese Company. Admission, 50 cents. Private
Boxes, $3.00.
Golden Gate Park— Contains over 1,000 acres ; extends from Baker street
to the Pacific Ocean, 3>^ railes. Reached by Market Street Cable Railway via
Haight, Hayes, or McAllister streets, from ferries ; or, Geary Street Cable Road,
from corner of Kearney an^ Geary streets ; and via Powell or California Street
Cable Roads. It was in this beautiful Park that the Mid- Winter Fair of 1894
was located.

GLIMPSE OF CELESTIAL UFE IN SAN FRANCISCO

174

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 175
Cliff House and Seal Rocks— Point Lobos, 6 miles from City Hall. A
magnificent drive over a perfect road leading through Golden Gate Park ; or, can
be reached by Market Street Cable Railroad, Haight Street Division, connecting
at terminus with trains of Park & Ocean Railroad direct to Ocean Beach, near
Cliff House. Distance from Oakland Ferry, about 8 miles ; time, 55 rainutes ;
fare, 10 cents. Also reached by Powell Street Cable Railroad and Ferries and
Cliff House Railroad.
SuTRO Heights — The private garden of Adolph Sutro, made beautiful
beyond description by the gardener and artist, is just back of the Cliff House, but
higher up. Open daily from 10 a. m. to 5 p. m.
Presidio Reservation — Fronts on the Golden Gate for about two miles.
It has several beautiful drives, is owned by the Government, and its barracks have
the largest military force on the Pacific Coast. Drive out California Street or take
California Street, Jackson Street or Union Street cable cars.
Postoffice — Corner of Washington and Battery Streets. General delivery
is open from 7:30 a. m. to 11:00 p. m. every day, Sundays excepted ; Sundays,
from I to 2 p. m. Branch postoffice, station " A," 1309 Polk street ; " B," City
Hall ; "C," Twentieth and Mission streets ; " D," Market street Wharf ; " E,"
Third and Townsend streets ; " F," Post and Devisadero streets ; " G," 17th and
Market streets; " H," Laguna and Ivy avenue; "J," Stockton and Union;
" K," 30 New Montgomery. Branch offices open from 8 a. m. to 6 p. m. daily
except Sunday. Open on Sundays from I p. m. to 2 p. m.
Markets for fruit, flowers, fish, game and other produce : California
Market, California Street, below Kearney ; Centre Market, Sutter and Grant
Avenues. Visit early in morning. Semi-tropical fruits and flowers all the year
round. San Francisco Stock Exchange — Pine street, between Montgomery an
Sansome. Merchants Exchange — California street, between Montgomery and San
some. United States Mint — Fifth and Mission streets. Visitors admitted from
9 a.m. to 12 noon, except Saturday and Sunday.
California State Mining Bureau — New Pioneer Building, Fourth street.
This institution has the largest and most valuable collection of ores, minerals,
fossils, and Indian relics, in the United States.
Mission Dolores — Founded 1776 ; 17th and Dolores streets. Reached by
Valencia Street Division of Market Street Cable Railway.
Alcatraz Island and Angel Island — Permission to visit these may be
secured at departraent headquarters, Phelan Building, Market St., except Sundays.
Steamer General McDowell visits them daily.
Eastern Railway Lines — The offices of all agents of eastern railroads,
represented in San Francisco, are on Montgomery, Market and New Montgomery
streets ; iu close proximity to Palace, Grand and Occidental Hotels.
Express Offices — Wells, Fargo & Co., corner Mission and New Montgomery
streets, opposite Palace Hotel.
Street Car Fares — The fare on all street car lines, both horse and cable,
is 5 cents. Hack Fare — One person, not more than one mile  $1 50
Two or more persons " "  ... 2 50
Four or less, by the hour — first hour   3 00
Each subsequent bour ........................... 2 00

Pv^-^^'^^J-^Ste-

a
176
OAKLAND.
Beaatlfol Residence
City.
Fopalatlon, 75,000.
Distance from
San Francisco, S Miles.
Elevation, 13 Feet.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 177
Cabs — One person, not more than one mile  50
Two or more persons, by hour — first hour  i 50
Each subsequent hour   i 00
Oakland. It is to be supposed that the
tourist in his stay in San Francisco has not neglected
to visit this garden city. The town is beautifully
situated on the east shore of the bay, the land slop
ing gradually down to the waters from the Contra
Costa Mountains, which rise back of the city at a dis
tance of a few miles. The foot hills are crowned
with the suburban villas of wealthy merchants of
Oakland and San Francisco, and from their veran
dahs can be obtained a most extensive and pleasing
view of the bay, San Francisco and the Ocean
beyond. Oakland is one of the raost beautiful resi
dence cities in the world, and in point of sylvan beauty has few if any rivals. The
houses are tastefully built, many of them of the greatest elegance, surrounded by
extensive and well kept grounds, embowered in trees and glowing with a lavish
wealth of roses. It must not be supposed, however, that Oakland is not also a
business town. On the contrary, it possesses large mercantile and manufacturing
establishments. Electric lights illuminate the wide and well paved streets ; cable
and electric car lines are numerous and none of the modern improvements lacking.
Schools and churches abound. Oakland is a city of colleges, and numbers among
these institutions of higher education the following: The State University
School, the Oakland Military School, the Convent of Our Lady of the Sacred
Heart, the Oakland Feraale Seminary, the Feraale College of the Pacific, and the
University of California, at Berkley, four railes distant. Among the large raanU'
facturing establishments may be raentioned the extensive raachine shops of the
Southern Pacific Company, the Judson Manufacturing Company, the Pacific Iron
and Nail Company, besides cotton mills, jute raills, flour raills, and innuraerable
other institutions, employing a large amount of capital and thousands of men,
woraen and children. One can reach San Francisco from Oakland every fifteen
minutes by train and ferry. Oakland is a most charming place, and is the home of
an enterprising, hospitable, and intelligent class of people.
Southw^ard Bound. Having spent a most delightful season in San
Francisco, the tourist's face is turned southward, and the journey to Los Angeles
and San Diego begins. Taking the Oakland ferry, at the foot of Market street,
one is borne pleasantly over the waters of the bay and lands at Oakland pier,
where he takes the Southern Pacific train for Los Angeles.
Doubling on our Track. From Oakland to Port Costa we follow the
same line as that upon which we entered San Francisco, therefore, it is not neces
sary to make mention of the intervening stations. Passing Port Costa, the line
has the Sacramento River on its left, and rolling hills on its right. Beyond the
river can be seen the town of Benicia nestling among the coves of the Suscal Hills.
Alartinez. A pleasant village among the hills. Fruit trees and vines
abound, and the inhabitants of the towns and surrounding country are mainly
engaged in horticulture. Martinez is the county seat of Contra Costa County,
and is a most quiet and charming place of residence. Citrus fruit, grapes of all
varieties, and deciduous fruits flourish without irrigation, and the climate is so
mild that semi-tropical plants grow out of doors without any special protection.
(Population, 1,500. Distance from San Francisco, 35 miles. Elevation 10 feet.)

ON WHEELS, THROUGH GOLDEN GATE PARK.

178

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 179
Avon, Bay Point and Cornwall are small intermediate stations.
Coal Mines. About six miles south of Cornwall are large coal mines, the
tramways for the conveying of the product of these mines pass over our track, and
deliver the coal at Pittsburgh Landing on the river, whence it is carried by water to
destination. From Martinez to Antioch the road passes through a hill country on our
right, wfith the river to the left. Many deep cuts occur, and numerous small tribu
taries flow down the gulches, into the river. Up these gulches we catch
glimpses of neat farm houses, surrounded by well cultivated fields and orchards.
Mount Diablo rises to the south, and reaches an elevation of 3,896 feet.
Among the foot hills of this mountain are the mining towns of Stewartville,
Empire, Nortonville and Somerville. At Cornwall to our left lies Suisun Bay,
and here the San Joaquin and Sacramento Rivers have their junction.
Antiocb. A shipping point for coal. The town itself is a mile north on
the banks of the San Joaquin River. From this point also large quantities of vege
tables, strawberries, fruit, etc., are shipped to San Francisco. (Population, 700.
Distance from San Francisco, 55 miles. Elevation, 46 feet.)
Bentw^OOd. Wheat fields begin to appear here, dotted with live oaks.
The town is small and supported by agricultural industries. It is situated on the
Marsh Grant of 13,000 acres, on which much stock is fed.
Byron. The most attractive thing about
this station, to the invalid and the tourist, is, its
near proximity to the Byron Hot Springs, situated
two miles to the south. The country round about
is famous for its production of wheat, alfalfa, fruit
and grapes. This being a portion of the great wheat
belt. The hot springs have attracted much atten
tion, and a large hotel and bath houses have
been erected. The springs are varied in their characteristics, being both hot
and cold, and possessing in turn the constituents of sulphur, iron, soda and mag
nesia. There are mud baths, and in fact all varieties of bathing. The temperature
of some of the springs is as high as 130° Fahrenheit.
Bethany. Distance from San Francisco, 76 railes.
Tracy. The junction of the old Western Pacific route from San Francisco
to Sacramento via Livermore Pass with our line to the south. Tracy is surrounded
by broad wheat fields, which extend to the northward beyond the reach of vision.
(Population, 400. Distance from San Francisco, 71 miles. Elevation, 64 feet..)
Banta. Small station three miles from Tracy, after passing which we cross
the San Joaquin River on a very long draw bridge. (Population, 150. Distance
from San Francisco, 74 railes. Elevation, 30 feet.)
Latbrop. Junction of the old Western Pacific and the Sunset Route. This
is a regular meal station and here the railroad company have erected a large hotel,
in which are also their offices. Lathrop is in the heart of the great San Joaquin
wheat belt. (Population, 600. Distance from San Francisco, 83 railes. Elevation,
26 feet.) Tbe San Joaquin Valley. After crossing the San Joaquin River and
turning to the right, our course is up the famous San Joaquin Valley — the great
granary of California. Here are five" million acres of the best wheat land in the
world. A valley two hundred miles long by thirty miles broad, which when
vivified by the magic touch of irrigation, produces not only wheat but also almost
every thing that can be raised in tropical or temperate zones — wheat, corn, oats,
flax, apples, oranges, lemons, figs, nuts, olives — the list is too extended for

BYRON HOT SPRINGS.
Bathing and
Health Kesort.

180 OVES THE SANGE
recapitulation. Properly conserved there is water enough to irrigate the whole
valley, and in many places the natural supply of water has been supplemented by
t'cAt flowing from artesian wells. After passing Lathrop, we rattle through a
number of small stations, all of them with large shipping warehouses, speaking
eloquently of the generous output of the soil.
Passing through Morano, Ripon, and Salida, small stations, we reach
Modesto. County seat of Stanislaus County, and a prosperous and pretty
town, surrounded by an industrious agricultural people. (Population, 2,500.
Distance from San Francisco, 114 miles. Elevation, 91 feet.)
Between Modesto and Merced are the unimportant stations of Ceres, Turlochs,
Livingston, and Atwater.
Merced. A well-built town, the county seat of Merced County. Possessed
of good public buildings, fine private residences, and surrounded by an exceedingly
rich agricultural country, and destined to be a great manufacturing center, Merced
has prospered and will continue to prosper. The county has a population of
75,000, nearly all engaged in agricultural pursuits. (Population, 3,000. Distance
from San Francisco, 152 miles. Elevation, 171 feet.)
Athlone. Before Athlone is reached we cross the Mariposa River, and
after it is passed the Conchilla River. Wheat fields are on every hand. Irrigating
ditches abound. Vineyards are frequently to be seen. And Athlone, a quiet little
village, sits in the raidst of fertile fields. (Population, 50. Distance from San
Francisco, 162 miles. Elevation, 210 feet.)
This station is situated at the junction with the
main line of the Yosemite extension of the Southern
Pacific Railroad, which extends to Raymond, a dis
tance of twenty-one miles to the eastward. From
Berenda a good view of the Sierra Nevada Moun
tains can be had. Among the highest peaks in view
are those of Mount LyeU, Mount Tyndal, Mount
Goddard and Mount Whitney. These mountains,
which exceed 14,000 feet in altitude, impress one
deeply with their vast proportions, more especially
because we are so near the sea level, being at an
elevation of less than three hundred feet. Berenda
has an agricultural and grazing country directly
tributary to it. (Population, 85. Distance from San Francisco, 178 miles. Eleva
tion, 256 feet.)
Madera. This is a leading shipping point for lumber, which is delivered
to this point from the foot-hills by means of a flume fifty-three miles in length. The
great work of constructing this flume was completed in 1876, which has been in
service ever since. The araount of lumber delivered in this way during the last ten
years is something enormous, as raay readily be gathered from the fact that one
year's delivery amounted to over twenty-two million feet. (Population, 1,500.
Distance from San Francisco, 185 railes. Elevation, 278 feet.)
Fresno. Between Madera and Fresno there is some interesting country.
Just after leaving Madera we cross the Fresno River, beyond Sycamore the
San Joaquin River, and at Borden, Cottonwood Creek. The sand dunes will
attract your attention beyond Sycamore — queer little hills of sand fifteen to twenty-
five feet in diaraeter and three to six feet high. Fresno is the county-seat of
Fresno County, and is a most thriving and prosperous city. It has electric
lights, telephones street railroads, water works, in short, all the modern im-

BERENDA.
Junction Point
tothe
World's Famous
Yosemite Valley.
Big Trees, etc.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

181

provements. Redwood and pine is the material mostly in use for building pur
poses, and the town possesses many elegant public and private edifices. A
great variety of industries are tributary to the town. Fresno County has about
50,000 acres planted to grapes, and shipped last year over eight million pounds of
raisins. This is but a small part of the product of the county. The shipments of
various farm products reached the high figure of one hundred and sixty million
pounds of freight. There is an abundant supply of water for irrigation, being

THE PETRIFIED FOREST,

brought from the mountains by means of canals having an aggregate length of
eleven hundred miles and costing two million dollars. The capacity of these
canals for irrigation covers a space of over seven hundred thousand acres, thus
making Fresno County one of the richest agricultural regions in the world. Lom
bardy or the Nile Valley are not richer in possibilities. Many colonies have
formed settlements in the vicinity of Fresno. These enterprises, through intelli
gent and united industry, have proved very successful. With a salubrious climate

183 OVER THE SANGE
fine scenery, fertile land and an industrious people, Fresno has every reason to
anticipate a continuance of her phenomenal success. (Population, 12,000. Dis
tance from San Francisco, 206 miles. Elevation, 293 feet.)
Selma. Surrounded by a wheat growing country and supplied with good
flouring mills, this town is in a flourishing condition. A great deal of wheat is
shipped from this station — twenty million pounds last year. The town has most
all the modern improvements. (Population, 2,200. Distance from San Francisco,
221 miles. Elevation, 311 feet.)
Kingsburg'. This enterprising little town owes its prosperity to the fact
that it is situated in the famous wheat belt. Here are to be seen big warehouses
for storing wheat, large quantities of which are shipped from this station annually
The cultivation of fruit is beginning to attract attention of the people. Irriga
tion is the salvation of this country, and the water is secured, not only through
ditches, but also by means of windmills from wells varying in depth from fifteen
to fifty feet. Soon after leaving the town, we cross King's River on a trestle
bridge, the approach to which is made over a long, high embankment. (Popula
tion, 450. Distance from San Francisco, 227 miles. Elevation, 300 feet.)
King's Uiver, a large, clear body of water, rises in the Sierras to the
northeast, and flows southwesterly in a broad and tortuous channel, irrigating a
large scope of territory. King's River is the boundary line between Fresno and
Tulare Counties.
Traver. This is a new town, showing evidence of prosperity and thrift,
possesses a flouring mill, machine shops, planing mills and other business enter
prises of coraraercial importance. (Population, 600. Distance from San Francisco,
232 miles. Elevation, 291 feet.)
Goshen. The junction of the Goshen Division, which extends a distance
of sixty miles to Alcalde. (Population, 75. Distance from San Francisco, 240
miles. Elevation, 286 feet.)
The Goshen Division. There are a number of small towns on this
branch, as follows: Hanford, Armona, Grandeville, Lemore, Huron and Alcalde.
The land through which the road passes is very fertile, and prices for it range
from one hundred and fifty to three hundred dollars per acre.
Visalia. This town is the county-seat of Tulare County, and is situated
seven miles to the eastward of Goshen, being connected with that station by means
of a motor road. The Kaweah River flows through Visalia and aids in irrigating
this most fertile region. (Population 3,000. Distance from San Francisco, 247
miles. Elevation, 290 feet.)
Besources of Tulare County. The resources of this county are
most varied, the plains and the mountains meeting here; hence, the farming and
fruit-raising of the one are supplemented by the mining, lumber industries and
stock-raising of the other. There are about two million and a half acres of territory
in the mountains, about eight hundred thousand acres among the foot.hills, eleven
hundred thousand acres of valley and two hundred thousand acres in Tulare Lake
aad its surrounding " tule" lands. The mountains are covered with timber, and
mines of gold, iron, copper and zinc are worked. The foot-hills produce almost
every variety of deciduous and citrus fruits, together with grapes — both wine and
raisin. Lands can be bought here at prices ranging from twenty-five to three
Viundred dollars an acre.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE 183

TULARE.
Commercial and
Agricultural Centre.
Population, 4,000.
Distance from Saa
Francisco, iiSl mUes.
Elevation, !i8ii feet.

Ten miles beyond Goshen we come to Tulare.
a thriving town of recent growth, with railroad
roundhouse, shops and good station buildings.
This is a large shipping point, not only via the
railroad, but by raeans of wagons to interior
points. Irrigation in the Artesian Belt. The
question of irrigation in California has been one
of much vexation and exceedingly difiicult of solu
tion. The supply of water has been so very limited
that millions of acres of land, as fertile as any in
the world if irrigated, and absolutely worthless
without water, have lain fallow for years. Fortu
nately for California, it has been discovered that this lack of water can be supplied
in raany instances through the agency of artesian wells. In certain sections
of the country these resources have been developed, and the result has been the
establishraent of what are popularly known as "artesian belts.'' One of these
zones extends frora Caliente to Stockton, the greatest development being in
Merced, Fresno, Tulare and Kern Counties, where over seven hundred flowing
wells have been established. These wells are frora 250 to 700 feet in depth,
and an average well will irrigate about 150 acres of land. The capacity of each
well can be largely increased by raeans of storage reservoirs. After leaving
Tulare the derricks of artesian well-borers can be seen on each side of the
railroad in great nurabers.
Tipton is a sraall station of no very great importance, except from the
fact that it is the shipping point for sheep, which are raised in great numbers in
the surrounding country. Seven miles to the west lies Tulare Lake, which is quite
a large body of water, being thirty miles long by twenty-five miles wide, and
abounding in fish and water fowl. Tipton is surrounded by a good agricultural
country, and enjoys its full measure of prosperity. (Population 400. Distance
from San Francisco, 262 miles. Elevation, 267 feet.)
Beyond Tipton are to be seen great numbers of windmills, used particular for
the work of irrigation. Immense groves of eucalyptus, or blue gum trees can be
seen from the train. Pixley, Alila, Delano, Poso and Lerdo are small stations of
minor importance. We cross the Kern River between Lerdo and Bakersfield.
Bakersfleld is the county-seat of Kern County, situated at the junction
of the two forks of Kern River. The town has the usual complement of public
and private buildings. It is surrounded by an exceedingly fertile country. Four
teen miles southwest is Kern Lake, seven railes long by four wide, while six miles
farther is Buena Vista Lake, a somewhat larger body of water. Irrigation has
been brought to great perfection in this county, there being seven hundred miles of
irrigating canals within its limits, the largest having a width of one hundred feet
and a length of forty miles. Twenty-five miles southwest of Bakersfield are the
Buena Vista Oil Works. This oil region, eight miles long by three wide, only
needs development to become an exceedingly valuable property. Bakersfield has,
as may be seen by the above, a most productive country surrounding it. (Popula
tion, 2,500. Distance from San Francisco, 314 miles. Elevation, 415 feet.)
Caliente. This station is at the entrance to the famous Tehachapi Pass,
and is located in the embrasure of a deep and narrow caiion, up which the train
takes its difficult way. This is a shipping point for freight from interior points
delivered to the road by wagons. It is also quite a stage station, stages leaving

r-

aii.

^J

ifej *.*

iV. r '^^'J

184

TO THE GOLDEN GA TE. 185
Caliente for Basin, Havilah, Hot Springs, Weldon and Kernville. (Population, 50.
Distance from San Francisco, 336 miles. Elevation, 1,290 feet.)
The twenty-four railes of journey up and down

The Famous Ijoop,
TEHACHAPI PASS.
Distance from San
Francisco, 3S% miles.
liength of Loop,
3,7»S feet.
Altitude of Tunnel,
3,956 feet.
Altitude of Crossing,
3,034 feet.
Altitude Gained,
78 feet.

the Sierra Nevadas, at the point where the railroad
makes the passage of this range dividing the broad
valley of the San Joaquin and the desert of Mojave,
is a most remarkable experience, and brings before
our eyes the wonderful triumph of railway engineer
ing skill. It is alleged that three civil engineers of
great reputation first undertook to survey a passage
through these peaks and crags, and, after repeated
attempts, declared the route impassible. A boy
of twenty took up the work where his elders had
forsaken it, and this miraculous railway path over
and through the mountains is the result. Con
cerning this famous pass, Mr. E. McD. Johnstone writes graphically as follows :
"As the Sierra Nevada and Coast Ranges in the north culrainate in the great
peak of Shasta (41° 24'), so in the neighborhood of Tehachapi Pass (35°) these two
great chains blend their distinguishing features of fern slope and icy crag, and
are lost in an inextricable mass of jumbled up peaks of every conceivable forra and
variety. Although nature has reared no such colossal masterpiece as Shasta in the
welding of her great rock bands in the South, she has raanaged to throw up her
earth-works in a manner so impregnable as to seemingly defy the art of man to
penetrate. The physical features of this Tehachapi country (the lowest pass
being 4,000 feet altitude) seemed to, and did for a time, baffle the shrewdest
engineers, but, finally, the track, by doubling back upon, and crossing itself, by
climbing, squirming and curving, resulted in a success and gave us one of the
most famous and dextrous pieces of railroad engineering in the world."
Tehachapi Summit. The station at the summit of the pass is at an
elevation of 3,964 feet, and is the highest point on this extension of the line.
Sheep feed on the grass, which is abundant in the valleys and gulches whicn sur
round the station.
Descending to the Desert. For several miles the train rolls along
on a level plateau on the summit of this range before the descent to the Mojave
Desert is made. A small salt lake is passed, where abundance of the chloride of
sodium, that important article of comraerce, can be shoveled up from the bed of
the lake, it being entirely exposed during the summer by the evaporation of its
waters. Cameron is a small station passed about midway between the summit and
Mojave, at the base of the range
Mojave is on the edge of the desert of the same narae, and the water used
s brought in pipes from Cameron, a distance of ten miles. This place is the
junction of the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad with the Southern Pacific. (Popula
tion 300. Distance from San Francisco, 382 miles. Elevation, 2751 feet.)
The Mojave Desert. A desert isn't as a general rule much of an ob
ject of interest to travelers, especially to those who have made the transcontinental
journey and experienced the monotony of the deserts of Utah and Nevada. How
ever we must say this, that we found raany things to interest us while traversing the
famed sand wastes of Mojave. In the first place there were the ^iant Cacti pr

186 OVES THE SANGE
Yucca Palm, a sight novel to our eyes, and peculiar in and of itself. This cactus
grows to the size of a tree, reaching an average height of twenty-five feet, and
attaining very often that of fifty feet. Its diameter is often that of two feet, and
sometimes even greater ; with its spreading club-like branches, its trailing bark and
peculiar form, the Yucca Palm is indeed an interesting feature in the landscape.
Another attraction is the peculiar form of the buttes, which rise from the desert
sands on every side. Varying in height from two to five hundred feet, grooved
and channeled by the elements, they give variety and interest to the landscape.
One must not neglect to mention the mirage as a third element of variety. We do
not remember ever to have seen more complete or deceptive mirage effects than
those of the Mojave Desert.
Rosamond, Lancaster, Acton are desert stations of small interest. The
Soltdad Mountains tower to our right as Rosamond is passed, and we later on
make our way through this range by means of what is known as the Solidad Pass,
reaching an altitude of 3,211 feet.
Newhall. This station is not very large, but boasts a large hotel, capable
of entertaining one hundred and fifty guests. From here may be plainly seen the
San Fernando Mountains, exceedingly perpendicular, and rising to an altitude of
three thousand feet. These mountains could not be_passed until a tunnel six
thousand nine hundred and sixty-seven feet long had been made.
In this vicinity are oil refineries producing about five thousand barrels of oil
per day. The oil fields are but a short distance from Newhall.
San Fernando Tunnel. From Newhall we ascend the grade through
cuts until the tunnel is reached. The grade is one hundred and sixteen feet to the
raile, and as we approach from the north in the tunnel, it is thirty-seven feet per
mile, the grade on the south frora the exit is one hundred and six feet, while the
elevation of the tunnel is one thousand four hundred and sixty-nine feet.
San Fernando. The valley of San Fernando bursts on our vision as we
eraerge from the tunnel, a land of orange groves and olive trees, the very opposite
in character from the arid waste we have just left behind us. The town of San
Fernando is quite a place, and growing daily in population.
Through cultivated fields, past suburban residences we roll, pausing for a
moment at Burbank, only eleven miles from Los Angeles. Beyond this place we
journey through villages de facto, de jure or in futuro. There are plenty of lot
stakes, and the suburbs of Los Angeles will certainly be wide spread, if they ever
cover the ground now laid out. The valley of the San Joaquin has been passed,
the heights of TehacHapi have been scaled, the desert
of Mojave has been crossed, and we are here at last!
From our cheery heights, as we approach the town we
gaze on a scene of entrancing beauty. Mountain-gird ¦
led, garden-dotted city, lying on the slope of the San
Gabriel Mountains, and watered by streams from
the heights above, one hardly knows whether to call
it a city of gardens and groves, or an immense grove
and garden sprinkled with palaces and delightful
homes. Health and prosperity seem to have made themselves the presiding Deities
of the place. We gratefully decide that we have arrived at a point where it were
well to let the train, like the busy world it typifies, pass on and away, while we rest in
this paradise — a home indeed fit for the angels — and while we bask in its sunshine,
gaze at its mountain peaks, catch glimpses of the ocean, breathe the fragrance of

LOS ANGELES. The
Metropolis of Southern
California.
A City of Tropical
Magnificence.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE, 187
its roses and geraniums, or listen to its mocking birds and nightingales, we unite
many a time and oft in thanks to the kindly fate which led our steps to Southern
California and the City of the Angels^ There is no city whose growth can be
compared to Los Angeles — in fact, no city west of.the Rocky Mountains can boast
of such rapid improvements. Thousands have come to Southern California simply
to pay a visit, but soon become charmed with its wonderful climate and beautifu?
surroundings, so much so that they conclude to remain permanently in this land of
sunshine and flowers. A great deal has been written of this section, but the half
has never been told. With the greatest climate in the universe, the richest and
most inexhaustible soil, the vast amount of valuable land in and around Los
Angeles, it is no wonder that her present condition is so prosperous. The beauti
ful avenues extending away to the foothills on the east and to the ocean on the
south, the orange groves within her corporate limits, the magnificent public and
private buildings all tend to make the Angel City a place of wonder. Main street,
the principal street in town, is the dividing line for east and west. First street
the division for north and south. The wholesale houses are scattered along Los
Angeles, Commercial, Allso and Requena streets, while the large retail establish
ments are to be found on Spring street, which is to Los Angeles what State
street and Wabash avenue are to Chicago. The entire city south of First
street is paved with concrete pavement, north of First heing laid with Belgian
blocks. There are many beautiful parks within the city Jimits, and the ocean can
be reached in a trifle over an hour's drive.
It may be stated that the much-abused word "climate" has doubtless been a
powerful factor in producing grand results. Furthermore, the fAct that hundreds
of those who were deemed hopeless invalids on their arrival here are to-day enter
prising, energetic and successful capitalists, merchants, manufacturers, fsrmers and
orchardists, attesting the effects of this sun-kissed land and health-renewing climate
on the human system ; and so long as there are any sufferers from the blizzards,
cyclones and other life-destroying elements east of the Rocky Mountains, just so
long will Southern California, and Los Angeles in particular, continue to receive
thousands annually of the best citizens of the republic, until it becomes the most
densely populated portion of the United States.
Los Angeles is reached by the Southern Pacific R. R. in nineteen hours
from San Francisco — distance, 482 miles — or by steamer. It is a most beautiful
city, of 60.000 people, is growing rapidly, and is a commercial point of rauch
importance, as well as the center of an agricultural paradise, it being the principal
city between San Francisco and Kansas City on the transcontinental line
formed by the connection at Deming or El Paso. It is also the largest city
between San Francisco and San Antonio, Texas, by the great "Sunset Route,"
now open to the Gulf of Mexico. The city has many elegant buildings, wide,
clean streets, with horse, cable, and electric railways. A day's ride over the
lovely country surrounding Los Angeles, through miles of long, straight avenues
of orange trees and thousands of acres of <rrapes, seeing every kind of semi-
tropic fruit growing side by side with the more hardy fruits, both being in the
greatest profusion and of the finest quality, will convince the traveler from almost
any part of the earth that here is surely the paradise of America, if not of the world.
No city in the United States has improved so rapidly within the past few years
as Los Angeles. Since 1887 opened, nearly every one of the principal business
•treets have been paved with Belgian blocks, and the raain residence thoroughfares
with concrete, thus making a drive equal to any avenue in the Union There are no
improvements which have been of «iore benefit to Los Angeles than that of pave-

IN THE SEMI -TROPIC ZONE. LOS ANGELES.
KM

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 189
ment. The immense araount of daily traffic necessitated this movement, and
there is scarcely a block within the corporate limits which is not in proper
condition. Curbing has also received its share of attention, while the cement
sidewalk is becoming universal. The city has an almost perfect sewerage
system, which requires an outlay of nearly $750,000. Since January l, 1 887,
the Sixth Street Park, bounded by Fifth, Sixth, Olive and Hill streets, has been
thrown open to the public, and is in keeping with the many fine residences that
surround it. The Second Street Park, situated near the terminus of the cable
Vine of railroad, is a very inviting place, and receives its share of Eastern visitors
ivhen viewing the many improvements around Los Angeles.
Los Angeles is essentially a land of schools. The public, high and normal
schools are supported by State taxation, and their doors are open to all. Besides,
there are nuraerous universities, colleges and acaderaies. The raajority of children,
after obtaining an education in the public schools, by force of circurastances are
compelled to take up the battle of life for themselves ; but to those who thirst for
deeper draughts at the fountains of knowledge, the higher schools await them.
The University of Southern California is under the auspices of the .Methodist
Episcopal Church, and was established by Rev. O. S. Frambes in 1876. In 1880
it was incorporated under the State laws, and was the recipient of a large tract of
land in the southwestern corner.
liOS Angeles to Santa Barbara. There are two routes by which
Santa Barbara may be reached from Los Angeles. One by water, via San Pedro,
and the other by rail, via Saugus. A pleasant way for one with time at his disposal
is by water. In order to make this trip the tourist takes the train of the San Pedro
Division of the Southern Pacific Company at Los Angeles, and is soon rolling rapidly
along to the southward through orange groves and vineyards, which abound along
the entire course, but are especially noteworthy in the suburbs of Los Angeles.
Florence. This pretty town, embowered in an abundance of shrubs and
fruit trees, is surrounded by well cultivated and fertile fields. Here the line
branches, the San DiefO Division extending to the left. (Population, 800. Dis
tance from Los Angeles, 5 miles. Elevation, 151 feet.)
Compton. This is the largest town on the division between Los Angeles
and San Pedro. It is in the heart of an extremely well cultivated and productive
fruit belt. Grapes, citrus fruits and berries grow in great abundance. The
yield is extraordinary and is especially true as to small fruits, such as black
berries, strawberries, raspberries, etc. (Population, 900. Distance from Los
Angeles, IO miles. Elevation, 76 feet.)
Ten miles beyond Compton evidences of our near approach to the grand old
ocean begin to appear. Salt marshes begin to make their appearance and the
fertile soil gives place to stretches of shifting sands.
Wilson's College. This is a Protestant institution of learning, eighteen
miles distant from Los Angeles, situated on the site of the old Headquarters of the
United States Military Department for Southern California and Arizona, which
was abandoned about twenty years ago and sold to private parties. About a raile
beyond the college, the junction for Long Beach is passed and San Pedro the rail
road terminus is soon reached.
San Pedro. This is one of the largest and best harbors between San
Francisco and San Diego. It has over a mile of docks, with between eighteen
and twenty feet of water at low tide. Ships receive and unload freight to and
from the railroad cars direct, though from some ships of great tonnage the freight
is taken by means of lighters. The government has improved the harbor to a great

190 OVES THE RANGE
extent and the results have been fully commensurate with the expense incurred.
The commerce of San Pedro is quite extensive, sometimes as many as twenty
ships can be seen riding at anchor, or tied up to the wharf busily engaged in
loading or unloading freight. Great quantities of lumber are shipped to San
Pedro from points on the coast as far as two hundred miles north of San Francisco
and all nations are represented during the year by ships in this harbor hailing from
every part of the world. Coal comes here from the upper coast and from England
and in the case of English vessels a cargo of grain is taken back. The history of
San Pedro dates back to the earliest settlement of California, but as a port of any
importance its growth began less than ten years ago. Before that time it was merely
an open roadstead and lighters carried all freight to and from Willmington.
Point Fermin. This point is marked by a lighthouse of the first class
and is one of the raost conspicuous headlands on the western coast. It lies to the
west of San Pedro and is reached by stage road around the beach, a distance of six
miles, or by boat directly across the cove.
Santa Catalina Island. This mountainous island looms up to the
southwest at a distance of twenty miles to sea. The island has become a favorite
resort for excursionists and sportsmen. The trip to Catalina Island and return from
San Pedro can be made for $2.00 and is well worth the visit.
San Clemeth Island is still further to seaward, faintly outlined against
the sky at a distance of fifty railes. On this island great flocks of sheep and
goats 3re allowed to range at will.
San Pedro to Santa Barbara. The tourist takes one of the steam
ers which ply regularly between San Francisco and San Diego and, after a raost
enjoyable and interesting trip, finds himself at Santa Barbara, " The Peerless,"
In the short space of two years, from January,
1887, to January, 1889, a numberof events crowded
together have practically changed the entire aspect
of the city. At the beginning of the period, Santa
Barbara was a quiet country town of great possi
bilities, it is true, but of very limited actual im
portance. It was shut off from the rest of the
world, and quite contented that it should be. No
changes of great moment had taken place in
the town for years and there was but little prospect that any were very
soon to be realized. The marvelous advance whicti was being achieved
by the rest of the southern part of the State showed but little signs of appearing
here. People came and visited and went away, but the idea of Santa Barbara as a
good place for business undertakings or for investment rarely entered their heads.
Now after a brief space of time, during which the natural forces of American
enterprise and the genuine merit of its situation have been allowed full play, the
city of Santa Barbara finds itself a different being. Many of the old conditions
still remain, some of the changes are far from complete; but those who see beneath
the surface appreciate that there has suddenly come into being a new Santa Barbara
with a gratifying present and a splendid future. The great event in its history.
so important that it overshadows all the others, was the arrival of the railroad.
Since the Southern Pacific first pushed its way into this part of the State, it has
been raerely a question of tirae when it would enter this quiet valley. On the 19th
of August, 1887, the event took place, ahd the first train of passenger cars entered
the city, bringing hosts of visitors from all parts of the State. A jubilee celebra-

SANTA BARBARA,
"the peerless."
An Ideal Honxe under
Sub-Tropical Skies.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 191
tion hailed the advent of the power that was to bring progress and improvement to
Santa Barbara. The company immediately set about building a suitable passenger
station', and before the year was ended the railway connection had become in every
sense an accomplished fact. After making its way into the city, the road proceeded
along the coast, passed Goleta, and by the end of the year trains were running to
Elwood, twelve miles farther north. The locality where the road enters the city,
was formerly a sandy desert and is now alive with shops, freight buildings and
cottages. Exact statements with regard to passenger and freight traffic are not
obtainable ; but the confidence which this corporation has in its Santa Barbara
connection is evinced by its purchase of more than three-quarters of a million dol
lars worth of property in and around this city. That the advent of the Southern
Pacific Company to Santa Barbara has given a new impetus to trade and rapid ad
vancement, none will deny.
Santa Barbara county extends along the coast of California seventy miles, and
is thirty five miles in width, and has a million and a half of acres of land. It con
tains a population of about 30,000 and has made a gain of seventy-three per cent.
during thepast seven or eight years. The city is beautifully laid out with newly ma
cadamized streets, It has electric lights, lines of street cars, telephone facilities, and
everything metropolitan. It is justly termed '" The Newport of the Pacific," with
a climate unequalled for the prolongation of life, beauty and health.
*' Where the coast line trending eastward.
Bending eastward, inward, southward
Forms a bay of wondrous beauty,
In a quiet, peaceful valley
Lies a peaceful, quiet hamlet —
Santa Barbara the peerless :
Peerless in her genial climate.
In her skies so clear and cloudless ;
Peerless in her sheen of sunshine.
Peerless, having sea and mountains,
Shadowy canons, mystic islands.
Hill and vajley, grove and meadow."
Malarious diseases are unknown. In fact, there are no endemic or epidemic
diseases whatever. The relative humidity of the air averages seventy degrees.
The average rainfall for the past few years was seventeen inches. Roses — and
such roses! — bloom in the open gardens, wfithout shelter, the whole year round,
without irrigation. The city of Santa Barbara and its suburbs contains about
10,000 people. In the course of the winter it is visited by thousands of tourists
from the East, which causes it to present a more metropolitan aspect than many
cities flve times its size. During the sumraer months come the visitors from San
Francisco and the northern part of the State, so that at no time in the year is
Santa Barbara lonesome. Horseback riding, surf-bathing, driving among the
canons and getting the views from the foothills, or merely dreaming away the
hours in the calm enjoyraent of the delicate atmosphere, the visitors experience no
difficulty in passing the time. Santa Barbara has a future as interesting as the
past has been. It is probably not destined to achieve great coraraercial import
ance. It does not expect to rival San Francisco, nor compete with Los Angele;
for the first place in the southern part of the State. Through its harbor, which is
one of the most perfect on the coast, it will receive a steadily increasing quantity
and variety of imports ; and as the port of a rich and productive region, it must
transact a considerable amount of business. But the true future of Santa Barbara
lies in the manifold advantages which it possesses over other places on this favored
coast, as a place for homes and villas. Not only in the town itself but in the val-

OLD MISSION CHURCH AT SANTA BARBARA.

ro THE GOLDEN CATE. 193
leys and among the foothills are many perfect sites, where, surrounded by a few
acres, which a little care will transform into a garden, the happy proprietor spends
his days in peace and calm contentment.
The Old Mission. A visit to Santa Barbara is not complete without a
meditative stroll through the old mission, the history of which is pleasantly given
by Mr. E. McD. Johnstone in his delightful book "By Semi-Tropic Seas" as
follows: " This of Santa Barbara is the best preserved of all the o'd missions,
and has had, perhaps, the most notable history of any. Its presidio, or military
garrison, was founded by Father Junipero Serra, on April 29, 1782, but it was not
until the 4th day of December, 1786, on the celebration of the feast of Santa Bar
bara, virgin and martyr, that the cross was raised and the mission founded. A few
days after, the Rev. Father Lasuen celebrated raass and preached frora a hut or
booth made for the occasion. The territory under control of this mission included
all the arable lands from the 'Rincon' west to Point Conception, and from the
mountains, on the north, to the sea. The greatest prosperity of the mission was
reached about 1812. The unjust demands continually made upon it by the Spanish
government, and later by the Mexican, greatly weakened its resources, and, finally,
by the secularization act and the withdrawal of Mexican protection, the destruction
of this property, as far as its primal object was concerned, was coraplete. The
immediate property of the mission was leased in 1845. In 1852 it was organized
into an independent Franciscan convent or college. In 1885 this college, the
titular of which was the Blessed Virgin of the Seven Dolors of Santa Barbara, was
annexed to the Province of the Sacred Heart of Jesus of the U. S. A."
By Kail to IJOS Angeles. As a pleasant variety the tourist can m£.ke
the return trip from Santa Barbara to Los Angeles by rail, taking the Ventura
branch of the Southern Pacific Company, which forras a junction at Saugus with
the raain line from San Francisco. Leaving Santa Barbara with a sigh of regret,
for here, if anywhere, a man could live peaceful days, we pass through groves of
verdure and are soon skirting the ocean with towering cliffs to the land
ward, which in places have been blasted away leaving space for the railroad to pass.
The scenery is charraing and the mind is pleasantly engaged until the train pauses
at a handsome station buUding, which is the depot for
Ortega. This is a town of expectations and few buildings. The situation
is a charming one and there seeras to be every reason to believe that ere long a
town worthy of the beautiful natural surroundings will be established. (Distance
from San Francisco, 521 miles. Elevation, 77 feet.)
Carpinteria. This is a picturesque little town surrounded and encroached
upon by orchards and vineyards. Many of the residents are of Spanish origin, as
Carpinteria dates back to the early settlement of Southern California and was
one of the original mission towns. (Population, 300. Distance frora San Fran
cisco, 517 miles. Elevation, 8 feet.)
San Buenaventura. The city of San Buenaventura, since the advenl
of the Southern Pacific Company, has raade progressive strides. Itis a beautiful,
old, ex-Spanish town, with 3,000 population, and is the county seat of Ventura
county. It is beautifully located upon the seashore, just at the point where the
Ventura river breaks through the sand into the sea. There are not many costly or
elegant residences, but rather more than the usual proportion of neat, cosy homes.
The same thing is true of the business blocks, and the town has its full coraple-
ment of stores and shops of all kinds. The streets have solid concrete walks and
tiie sewerage throughout the town. It is well lighted with gas, and has very

194 OVES THE SANGE
efficient water-works. The hotels are good and well patronized. There are the
usual number of churches, schools and fraternal organizations. The town is lively
and a large volurae of business has always been transacted. The climate is
delightful and life here must be a continual delight.
*• And oh ! the balmy air 'tis bliss to breathe,
As through the mountain gap steals the fresh breeze.
Tempering the fervid summer's noonday heats
With the gentle breath of mild Pacific seas."
San Buenaventura has until within a comparatively recent date, been, in a
raeasure isolated from the great centers of trade, not only of California but of the
world ; but now that the Southern Pacific Company has been built through its con
fines, it has entered upon an era of unexampled prosperity. The road enters the
southeastern part of the county by the way of Newhall, and extends to the coast at
San Buenaventura, tapping a tract of country that for fertility cannot be surpassed
Los Angeles is but a few hours' ride distant ; and the varied products of this section
find a ready market. (Population, 3,000. Distance from San Francisco, 500
miles. Elevation, 45 feet.)
Fertile Valleys. The great Santa Clara of the South is celebrated for
the fertility of its foil, mildness of climate, and healthfulness of its people. It was
this valley and its tributaries that enabled Ventura county at the Mechanics' Fair
at San Francisco, in 1885, to carry off the first premium for the most extensive and
varied exhibit of farm products. The valley extends nearly east and west across
the county, and is traversed by the Santa Clara river, fed by numerous tributaries,
as the Castaic, Pirn, Sespe and Santa Paula. At the upper or east end is the San
Francisco ranch, which includes the wheat-growing ranch of the Newhall Brothers,
and the Camulos with its orange and olive orchards, wine-cellars and old vineyards,
raade famous by Mrs. Jackson, who wrote apart of her celebrated book, " Ramona"
at this place. San Francisco ranch contains about 12,000 acres ; the Sespe ram b
8,000, well adapted for citrus and deciduous fruits; the Saticoy Rancho, 17,00c
acres; Bardsdale, a 2,000-acre colony; thence southerly, the Colonia rancho of
45,000 acres, level as a floor. Intervening is the Rancho Santa Clara del Norte,
of 13,000 acres. Next there is the San Miguel rancho, of 5,000 acres — an imraense
corn, bean and grain field. When we have passed through this rancho, en route
for Los Angeles, we are in the Ex-Mission, the grant upon which is located the
beautiful and thriving palm city, San Buenaventura. This rancho includes about
48, 000 acres, mostly hill lands, lying north of Santa Paula and Saticoy. Among
its hills are some beautiful tracts, well wooded and watered. In this great vallev
the Santa Clara of the South, a large population can be sustained. Its wonderful
resources, climate and scenery attract the attention of home-seekers.
The Ojai valley is a great amphitheater, whose walls are mountains rising like
citadels in all directions. Overiooking the whole is Mt. Topo-topa, rising to a
height of from five to six thousand feet, and coming out in springtime frora the
snows of untold winters as fresh and beautiful as ever. The drive to lower Ojai is
exceedingly inviting, being an easy grade along a clear, beautiful stream alive
with trout. In many places the road is arched with sycamore, oak and other
trees, festooned with hanging mosses and vines, and made vocal by the songs of
birds. In the valleys the air is soft and balmy as that of the island of Atlantis
of fabled story. They are the resort of invalids and pleasure-seekers, who receive
the best attention and care at a very moderate price.
Montalvo is another prospective city, with great beauty of situation.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 195
really a suburb of San Buenaventura, but no great business interests at present.
(Distance from San Francisco, 495 miles. Elevation, 89 feet.)
Saticoy. This pretty little town is situated in the midst of a fruit, grain
and vegetable growing region. Population, 300. Distance from San Francisco,
491 miles. Elevation, 146 feet )
Santa Paula is one of the leading towns in Ventura county and is fifty
miles north of Los Angeles. It has a growing population and is located in the
center of the beautiful Southern Santa Clara valley, which has the most productive
soil in the world, producing anything that mother earth can bring forth. Grain,
corn, beans and tropical fruits are raised in abundance, and are unsurpassed in
quantity and quality. There is one orange orchard near the town consisting of
one hundred acres, which is the finest we ever saw.
For climate and health, Santa Paula and its surroundings are unexcelled. The
water supply is abundant from cooling springs in the near raountains. The fins
gardens of vegetation and flowers ripen and bloora the whole year round. In fact,
it is a land overflowing with milk, honey — and oil.
Santa Paula is the headquarters of the oil regions of California. The raosl
extensive Petroleum Oil operations are on the Rancho Ex-Mission, situated along
the south side of Sulphur Mountain, beginning about four railes northwest of the
town and extending in a westerly direction eight miles, these wells are owned and
operated by a corapany which is incorporated with a capital stock ot $1,000,000.
This corapany has been most successful in its development, having a daily produc
tion of about 1,000 barrels from the many wells and tunnels. The region is a net
work of pipe lines conveying the oil to Santa Paula, Ventura and Hueneme. The
largest well produces about 300 barrels daily. The next most extensive oil develop
ments in this region are located at the Sespe, owned and operated by the Sespe
Oil Company, with its office at Santa Paula. The company has a capital stock of
$250,000. The production of the region is about 275 barrels daily, which is
piped to Santa Paula. These two companies keep a large force of raen constantly
engaged in drilling new wells, and thus the production is being constantly
augmented. No industry in the Golden State promises better results than
its oil developments, and nothing is more beneficial to Ventura county, and to
Santa Paula in particular. With an abundance of cheap petroleum for fuel,
no section offers better advantages for manufacturing purposes. (Population,
1,200. Distance from San Francisco, 483 miles. Elevation, 286 feet.)
Camulos. This picturesque hamlet has been made known to the world of
book readers as the home of " Ramona." The scenery surrounding it is of the most
attractive character. The San Fernando mountains are on the south, the foot-hills
of the Sierra de San Rafael on the north, the Santa Clara river flows through
the sylvan valley that lies between. On its margins are clumps ot willows and
groves of wide-spreading sycamores, and near where its clear waters run by the old
homestead, may be seen the " artichoke patch," and the "flat stone washboards,
on which was done all the family washing." The house, as described by Mrs.
Jackson, was "one of the best specimens to be found in CaHfornia of the repre
sentative house of the half barbaric, half elegant, wholly generous and free-handed
life led there by Mexican men and women of degree in the early part of this cen
tury." The foot hill pasture lands, the sheep corrals, the vineyards, olive groves
and orchards, the old Chapel, etc , etc., are all to be seen quite as really as they
are described in this interesting book. Mrs. Jackson's descriptions of Southern
California scenery are exceedingly fine, and it is not a matter of wonder that she
chose this beautiful spot as the home of her channing Ramona. Camulos presents

OVES THE SANGE
opportunities for the establishment of ideal homes in the heart of ideal scenery.
(Population, 150. Distance from San Francisco, 463 miles. Elevation, 286 feet.)
Saugus. Junction of the Ventura Branch with the main line. Our
journey from here to Los Angeles has already been described.
From Los Angeles to San Diego. The trip from Los Angeles to
San Diego abounds in interest and if one obeyed one's inclinations and made a
stop at all the attractive stations which intervene between the inland city and the
city on the ocean side it would take an entire vacation to accomplish the one hun
dred and eighty-nine miles of the joumey. Leaving Los Angeles on the Southern
California Railway at a comfortable hour in the morning, we are soon speeding
through the suburbs of the City of Angels. It is difiicult for us to tell just when we
have passed beyond the confines of the city, because the country is so fully occu
pied by handsome villa residences and the suburban stations are of such frequent
occurrence that one is puzzled to determine where the town ends and the country
begins. Downey Avenue, Morgan, Highland Park, Gravanzo, Lincoln Park,
South Pasadena, Raymond, Pasadena, Olivewood, Fair Oaks and Lamanda Park
are all busy stations disposed within a distance of thirteen miles from Los Angeles.
It is therefore not to be wondered at that the traveler is confused and at a loss to
know just when he is "out of town." Beyond Lamanda Park the stretches of
open country between stations begin to widen and one can look out of the window
at least twice before another town appears in view.
Raymond. As this station is approached one sees on the right an aspiring
hill adorned with handsome lawns, ornamental shrubbery, trailing vines and um
brageous trees. The summit of this hill is crowned by a massive and stately edifice
that at once attracts attention and excites curiosity. On inquiry we learn that this
is the Hotel Rayraond and that here are entertained the hundreds of guests
brought hither by the well known excursion managers, Messrs. Raymond and
Whitcomb. This, however, forms but a small part of the patronage of the Hotel
Rayraond, for from its excellent management, beautiful situation and healthful
location the hotel has become exceedingly popular. Of course there is a town-site
here and, what is not always the case in this country of town-sites, there is a town
as well, with the prospects of a city.
Soutb Pasadena is a flourishing suburb of Pasadena and will soon be so
merged into the parent town that they will be practically one and the same city.
One of the loveliest towns in the world lies
before us as we enter Pasadena. From a sheep
range in 1873 to the paradise of fruits and flowers
and verdure which greets our eyes to day is a magic
transformation. Yet such, in a word, is the history
of Pasadena. The semi-tropical luxuriance of floral
and arboreal growth which delights us here has
sprung into existence within the marvelously short
space of a decade and a half, and, nestling here
among the orange groves and fruiting vineyards, is
a city whose beauty of architecture is a glowing testimonial to the good taste,
wealth and Uberality of its residents. I know of no pleasanter or more interesting
drives than those which may be taken along the broad tree-lined avenues of Pasa
dena. Within spa«ious enclosures on each hand may be seen elegant villa resi
dences or splendid mansions surrounded by ornamental grounds of the greatest
beauty. Palm trees, magnolias, century plants, fig trees, ancient live oaks, sur
vivals of the days when this was only grazing ground for flocks and herds, pepper

PASADENA.
An Orchard City.
3eautifal for Situation.
A Delifflitful
Health and Pleasure
Resort.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

197

trees, blue gums and an infinite variety of ornamental shrubbery, make these
drives entirely novel, interesting and charraing. The city obtains an abundant
supply of water frora the Arroyo Seco Caiion and the results of irrigation confront
one in the wonderful groves of citrus and deciduous trees. Pasadena has a round
dozen of churches, representing an expenditure of nearly half a raillion dollars. It
has business blocks of metropolitan proportions, spacious and elegant theatres,

NEAR SAN GABRIEL AND PASADENA.

four banks, a score of hotels, large raanufacturing establishments, canning factories,
horse car lines, telephone system, electric lights,— in short, all of the modern con.
veniences. As a place ot residence we know of no more charming city than
Pasadena, whose fifteen thousand inhabitants have every reason to congratulate
themselves that their lines have fallen in such pleaeant places. The wonderful cli
mate of Pasadena is one of its chief attractions. TourisU who arrive in November

198 OVES THE SANGE
or October are constantly on the watch for winter. Finally a rain storm comes,
drenching the earth, and a few weeks later the ground the length and breadth of
the land is carpeted with flowers, form succeeding form, until color and variety,
tint and hue, seem to have run riot ; by this token you may know that the winter
has corae. The tops of the Sierras are clothed with snow, so near that you can
see the snow blown high in air by the mountain's blizzard, so near that in two
hours' ride you can go snow-balling or tobogganing, yet here at Pasadena the
ground is white with the blossoms of the orange, there is a carnival of flowers in
every dooryard, and to the student who arranges his plants according to their alti-
tudinal horizons, it is a puzzle. Here, in the sarae latitude as Wilmington, N. C,
we find the banana, fig, pomegranate, guava, alligator pear, cocoanut, the fan
palra, sago palra, cactus, the yucca, century plant, cork tree, the rubber tree, the
olive, orange, lirae, lemon, and a host of other tropical forms, yet it can not be a
tropical climate, as side by side with these is seen every pine known from Norfolk
Island to the shores of the Arctic Sea, firs, spruces ; and as for fruits, we see the
apple, pear, peach, apricot, plum, nectarine, all the small fruits, everything found
in the gardens of New York State.
The seasons are difficult to understand. The summer mean temperature at
Pasadena is 66.61 degrees ; that of Mentone in the Riviera, 73 degrees ; of Jack
sonville, Fla., 81 degrees ; of New York, about 73 degrees. Thus it will be seen
Pasadena can not have remarkably warra weather. The sumraer, with the excep
tion of one or two days, is not unpleasantly warm, and it is always pleasant
and comfortable in the shade, while every night is sufficiently cool to require a
blanket. Not a case of prostration from heat, not a squall or wind storm, seldom
a thunder-clap or sign of lightning, and hardly a cloud in the sky ; this is the
record of the summer here. Every day is a pleasant one, and such heat as is
experienced in New York City in the summer is never felt.
Three hundred and forty days out of the year will permit of continuous out-of-
door life in the open sunlight, and at least half of the others may be enjoyed.
This is the.great secret. The country is the land of the open air, winter and sum
mer, and the conditions of altitude and nearness to large cities allowing of all the
luxuries and comforts, add to its attractions.
Lamanda Park, We wish to do the tourist who reads this book a good
turn, having his comfort and enjoyment at heart ; therefore we advise hira to stop
at Lamanda Park and make his headquarters for a day, or a week, or a fortnight,
in this delightful spot. In the first place one can find here a home-like and com
fortable hotel ; in the second place, this is an excellent point from which to raake
radiating trips through the charming San Gabriel Valley or among the foot-hills
and up the peaks of the Sierra Madre Mountains. Within an hour's drive
are Sierra Madre Villa, the famous Rose Vineyards, Baldwin's ranch, where, be
sides miles of orange avenues are to be found, at Santa Anita, the stables made
famous by the fast horses owned by the " bonanza king " Orange orchards, ave
nues of English walnut trees, lemon groves, vineyards, veritable forests of decidu
ous fruit trees and a tropic luxuriance of splendid floral beauties surround this
place, which, though modest in size, is as we have said, a charming resting spot
and a most convenient point frora which to radiate in all directions and view either
the grandeur of the mountains or the more quiet but none the less attractive beau
ties of the valley.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 199

SIERRA MADRE VILLA
An Ideal Pleasure
and
Health Resort,
In the Heart of Orang^e
Groves, on the
Slope of the Sierra
Madre Mountains.

The fame of the Sierra Madre Villa is world
wide. On its shaded verandas congregate daily the
most cultivated and inteUigent people. It is not
always the same corapany that gathers here, but
it is always a company which it gives pleasure for
one to meet. The class of guests is of the best,
because the reputation of the Villa naturally attracts
that class. This ideal pleasure and health resort is
located on the southern slope of the Sierra Madre
Mountains, fourteen hundred feet above the leve!
of the sea. This elevation gives it coraplete im
munity frora the fogs of the sea and valley, and
also gives a view of the most wide-horizoned beauty.
Here we are only fourteen railes from Los Angeles, far enough away to escape the
turmoil of the city, and near enough to enjoy all of its advantages. Theatre trains
are run three or four nights each week, and one can go to Los Angeles by train
at alraost any hour in the day. The Southern California Rai'road passes within a
mile and a halt of the villa, Lamanda Park being the station. The views from
the Villa overlooking the beautiful San Gabriel Valley, are a glorious panorama of
rugged mountain ranges, extensive orange groves — in one of which the Villa
stands — vineyards, and the distant ocean with its shadowy islands. Here is,
indeed, an ideal home, with good food skillfully prepared, pure air and sparkling
raountain water. With all these essentials for health, comfort and luxury, the
tourist can not fail to enjoy his sojourn here. The fame of the Villa for its beautiful
and healthful location, and superior accommodations, with all raodern iraprove
ments for over one hundred guests, has become international. There are fine
suites of sunny rooms, broad verandas, inclosed with glass to keep out chiliy ait
if desired, a beautiful lawn, flowers' etc., and the most genial climate under the
sun. Good roads and a beautiful drive frora Los Angeles to the Villa. Eight trains
daily leave Los Angeles from First street depot, all stopping at Lamanda Park,
where the ^tage frora the Villa raeets all trains.
The San Gabriel Valley. The reraarkable growth of the San Gabriel
Valley of Southern California raay be traced to a single iraperishable feature — iti
climate. Towns and cities have appeared like raagic; not the raushroom growth
one expects and finds where a mining exciteraent has been the raagnet, but towns
which in completeness, architedural beauty, taste and culture of the people, wih
equal raany in the East dating back fifty years or more. Ten years ago the San
Gabriel Valley was, comparatively speaking, unoccupied. Several small towns, as
Duarte, San Gabriel, Puente, were the chief centres, and the entire land was cut
up into large holdings or ranches. To day we find towns by the dozen larger than
these pioneers, three lines of transcontinental railway, and one city, Pasadena,
with a sumraer or permanent population of fifteen thousand persons, and a winter
one ranging from twenty thousand to forty thousand. The San Gabriel Valley is
about ten miles wide and thirty miles long. Upon the north are the California
Maritime Alps — the Sierra Madre range — rising directly from the plains in a
series of parallel ridges, in peaks from four thousand to fourteen thousand feet
above the sea. To the west, spurs of the main range, the Sierra Santa Monica, the
San Rafael and the Verdugo Mountains form a protective boundary, while to the
south the Puente Hills rise, beyond which, faintly visible, twenty-five miles away, is
the Pacific. The Valley is therefore completely environed on all sides, having abso.
lute protection from prevailing winds from the north, iu this respect again resem-

200 OVES THE SANGE
bling the Riviera of Europe. The presence of these mountains and cafions rising
so abruptly from the valley gives to the locality a scenic charm difficult to describe,
and for its peculiar charm the view of the Sierra Madre range at Pasadena is un
equaled in this country.
Monrovia. This handsome little city has been christened by its admirers
" The Gem of the Foot-hills," and, in fact, there is quite as much truth as poetry
in the title. It has a most attractive site, commanding a comprehensive view of
the San Gabriel Valley to the front, while the background is filled in with the raass
ive range of the Sierra Madre mountains. The town has two lines of street railway
and a motor line to Los Angeles. It possesses an elegant and costly hotel, fur
nished with all the modern improvements, handsome school-houses, first-class
business blocks, fine private residences, and no saloons.
Duarte. This is one of the oldest of the settlements of the Valley and is
surrounded by a country of great productiveness. Farming is a considerable in
dustry and great quantities of corn and alfalfa, in addition to fruit, are raised.
Azusa is near the upper end of the San Gabriel Valley and is in the centre
of the great ranch from which it takes its name. The stations now follow in quick
succession until San Bernardino is reached. In fact the train never makes more
than four miles advance without either stopping at a station or passing through
one. To give the reader an idea of the frequent occurrence of these towns we
append a list, with the distance of each frora Los Angeles : Glendora, 27 ; San
Dimas, 31 ; Lordsburg, 34; North Pomona, 35 ; Claremont, 36; North Ontario,
41 ; North Cocamonga, 45 ; Etiwanda, 47 ; Rialto, 57, and San Bernardino, 60.
One of the most marvelous things connected with this journey of sixty miles from
Los Angeles to San Bernardino, aside from the marvels of nature, is that for an
average of every three miles of the journey there is a station and that at many of
these stations there are considerable towns and at several of them thriving cities.
At San Bernardino we stop for dinner and
change cars, taking the Southern California Rail
road for San Diego. The station is a large and
spacious building, admirably fitted for the purposes
to which it is dedicated. The city of San Bernar
dino lies in a most beautiful and fertile valley. The
county embraces 23,476 square miles, and contains
not only some of the finest farming land, citrus and
deciduous fruits of countless varieties, but also rich
mines, and many mineral springs and health resorts.
The scenery is magnificent and varied, the mountains abound in timber, and game
is plentiful. The climate is superb and invigorating. The city of San Bernardino
is situated in the centre of a valley one mile square and has a population of 10,000,
and is rapidly increasing in size and wealth. Among other .notable buildings are
the finest brick grammar school in Southern California, a court-house which cost
$40,000; the Stewart Hotel, costing $125,000; an opera house, an excellent
hospital, and churches of all denominations. There is an abuntlance of artesian
water. Three lines of railroads cross the county— the Southern Pacific, through
Los Angeles and Colton, to Yuma and Arizona, and the Southern California from
San Diego, through San Bernardino to Bar=tow, where it connects with the
Atlantic & Pacific ; and the Southern California Railroad, which runs on a
straight line between the two cities. There is also the Valley Railroad, from the
city to Gladysu, Lugonia, Redlands and Mentone, to the west line of High View.

SAN BERNARDINO,
Manufacturing;
and Mercantile Centre.
A. Beautiful Residence
City.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 201
A motor road also runs continuously between this city and Colton, a distance of
three miles, and the San Bernardino & Redlands Motor Road to Redlands and
Lugonia, via Victoria and Old San Bernardino orange groves. Also the San Ber
nardino & Arrowhead Narrow Gauge to Arrowhead Hot Springs. Street cars are
running to all parts of the city. Building material is abundant and cheap. Araong
the varied products that attain perfection here we may mention oranges, raisins,
wines, fruits and flowers of all kinds, alfalfa, corn and barley, while gold, silver
and borax are found in large quantities in the near mountain ranges.
A Fertile Valley. The county of San Bernardino is the largest in Cali
fornia, and includes within its limits the valley of the same name. It contains
much land which is now lying fallow, but which will in time be irrigated and
raade very productive. In its southwest corner are several large vaUeys well irri
gated and of unusual fertility. Within thera are long stretches of alraost level
plains, from which the gently undulating mesas gradually rise until they reach the
foothills. The lower level lands are sufficiently moist to grow alfalfa, corn and
vegetables, without irrigation; andthe soil is mainly a black sandy loara. The
higher lands become more sandy, while the foothills contain the gravel washings
from the mountains. These higher lands grow vines and deciduous fruits with tht
natural moisture; oranges and lemons alone require artificial irrigation. The
higher lands are better for deciduous fruits, the raesas or table-lands for citrus
fruits, the lower lands for vegetables and general farming. There are some im
mense vineyards in the country, and a vast quantity of excellent wine is raade.
After a barley crop is harvested, it is succeeded on the damp or irrigated lands by
a crop of corn. Alfalfa yields well and is cut from three to seven tiraes in the
season. About two tons are taken off each acre at a cutting. The heavy black
loara of the mountain sides grows exceptionally fine potatoes. Vegetables and
edible roots of all kinds attain an enorraous growth in the valley. Besides the
semi-tropical fruits, all those of raore northern latitudes can be raised. These val
leys surpass any others in the southern part of the State in the matter of an abun
dant supply of water for irrigating purposes. The Chino Ranch and Ontario lands
are in this county.
Colton. This live town is at the crossing of the Southern California and
the Southern Pacific railroads, and an unusually handsome station and large hotel
are to be seen here. The town is only four miles from San Bernardino, and the
time is not far distant when they will be one city. The citizens of Colton are en
terprising and liberal, and as a result the town is making rapid and large improve
ment. Canning factories are established here, and the shipments of prepared fruit
and fruit in its natural state are soraething extraordinary. The surrounding coun
try is of unsurpassed fertility, and a drive of half a day through the never-ending
groves of orange trees and in the raidst of most entrancing scenery will convince
one that Colton has every requisite for becoming a large and flourishing city. It
is sure'y a most delightful place of residence.
Fast Riverside is the station for Riverside, reached by a branch line.
Soutb Riverside, on the Southern California Railway, 15 miles southwest
of Riverside, is remarkable for the beauty of its situation and the symmetry of its
design. The projectors of this delightful town had original ideas and the town-
site is exactly circular in form. Fruit raising is one of the leading industries,
while manufacturing is receiving a great deal of attention and has already been
firmly established here.

VIEW IN SAN ANTONIO CANON. ONTARIO, CAL,

TO THE GOLDEN GA TE. S03

RIVERSIDE.
The Orange Grove City
of
Southern California.

Washington has been wittily denominated " the
city of magnificent distances," but here in Southern
California we have found a city equally as deserv
ing of that characterization. Riverside manages to
cover twenty-five thousand acres, and this great
extent of territory has upon it between three and
four thousand inhabitants. But did ever anyone
behold a raore beautiful sight than this orchard city, reclining in the midst
of orange groves, its raagnificent avenues lined with ornaraental trees, among
which the oriental palra is most conspicuous, its artistic villa residences surrounded
with grounds in which the care of the landscape gardener, can be seen, its
fine business blocks of brick and stone, its handsome hotels and its surrounding
vineyards making it a perfect bower of beauty.
Resuming our journey on the main line from East Riverside, we pass through
Box Springs, Alessandro and Perris, which latter place is situated on the San Jacinto
River, which empties in Lake Elsinore, some twelve miles farther on. The country
has become more rugged, for we are now skirting the San Jacinto hills. We pass
through deep cuts and around projecting spurs, and finally enter a very pretty
caiion, emerging from which we pause at Elsinore on the margin of
Lake Elsinore. This is a lovely little sheet of water, cradled in the
highlands, with a bold mountain range to the west. The lake is four miles long
and about half a raile wide, and forms a charming feature in the landscape.
Wildomar. At the foot of Elsinore Lake is Wildomar. This town has a
very picturesque situation, and considerable expense has been incurred in planting
trees, grading the streets, and bringing water in pipes from the adjacent moun
tains. It has schools, churches, good business houses, and a population of about
two hundred. Murietta. This is a regular raeal station, and on that account is of inter
est to the traveler. It is situated on the Margurita ranch, which comprises
208,000 acres of land, especially and solely adapted for grazing. San Margurita
Creek flows through the town, and the railroad follows this stream for thirty seven
miles, and then, over the brow of a rolling mesa to our right, the great Pacific
Ocean bursts on our view.
Ocean Side. This thriving town of a thousand inhabitants has a com
raanding situation on a mesa two hundred feet above the level of the ocean. From
this point of view the coast line can be followed in either direction as far as the eye
can reach. Here there is one of the finest hotels (The South Pacific) on the coast,
and here great improveraents have been inaugurated by the enterprising citizens.
The accommodations for sea bathing are most complete, and Ocean Side is sure to
becorae an exceedingly popular pleasure resort. Between Ocean Side and San
Diego, a distance of forty-seven miles, there are just a "baker's dozen " of sta
tions. At some of thera one can see hotels of the most imposing size and beautiful
architecture, a house or two, and thousands of lot stakes, but no great showing of
business or population. The stations occur in the following order : Carlsbad,
Leucadia, Encinitas, Del Mar, Cardero, Sorrento Alpine Selwyn, La Jolla,
Roses Siding, Morena and Old Town.

aui

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 205

SAN DIEGO.
The Naples of
the New World.
The Great Bay City of
Southern California.

The magnificent natural advantages of San
Diego cannot fail to make this the great city of
Southern California. It lies upon a slope facing
San Diego Bay. This slope extends back perhaps
an average mile, where it reaches an altitude of 200
feet above the level of the sea, and from which
point the country extends back in a broad, rolling
mesa. With such a slope, and with such an ascend
ing altitude, opportunities are offered for the most
wide-sweeping and raagnificent views. At the foot
of the city lies the land-locked bay, one of the most beautiful in the world, glistening
like a sheet of silver in the genial rays of an unclouded sun. Between the bay
and the ocean is the Coronado peninsula, on the expanded part of which is the
town of Coronado, with the largest hotel in the world. Beyond Coronado is the
Pacific Ocean, whose long, rolling swells break upon a level and far-extending
beach, their combining crests breaking into snow-white foam as they fall with
majestic regularity upon the shining sands. The distant background is forraed by
the raountains, with the Jaraul, old San Miguel and El Cajon standing well
forward, the advance guard of an army of giants. To the right is the receding
mesa; to the left the table lands and raountains of Old Mexico The landscape in
garb of varying green, the bay and ocean with their ever-changing shades from
shining silver to deep, dark blue, form a picture of such entrancing beauty that
neither pen nor pencil can adequately depict. With such natural attractions, to
which should be added the attractions of climate, it is not a matter of wonder that
the population of San Diego has increased rapidly since overland transportation
facilities have been provided. The city's population in November, 1885, was but
the population of a healthy village, say about four thousand; a year later saw it
advance to a city of between ten and twelve thousand; and by November, 1887,
the population had doubled again, and reached a total of twenty-five thousand
souls. The increase since has been steady, and the common but conservative
estimate of the population to-day is thirty thousand. The character of the popula
tion is truly American. Because to the Eastern raind San Diego is " away in the
West," the impression prevails with some that its population is of that western
character to be found in roraance of the light order. A greater mistake could not
be iraagined. San Diego is as typical an Araerican city as any to be found in the
land of Araericans. If the influence of any one city may be said to prevail here,
it is the influence of the City of Boston; and there is reason for it. The Sante Fe
Railroad, whose western terminus is at this harbor, is sn institution maintained by
Boston men and Boston capital. This has naturally created in Boston a financial,
and finally a social, interest in San Diego, which has resulted in the transplant
ing of many Boston men and women from the raetropolis of New England to the
new city by the sunset sea. They have found here a genial, social climate. Tn a
city covering as much ground as does San Diego, the matter of transportation is of
first importance. Th^s has been looked after by the enterprising citizens. Horse
cars, steam motors, electric motors and cable systems ?upplv the needs of the in
habitants. The San Diego Street Car Company has in operation twelve and one-half
iniles of horse-car lines. The Coronado Railroad Company has in operation twenty-
eight miles of suburban steam motor lines. The Electric Rapid Transit Company
controls about six miles of road, and is rapidly extending its lines, which, under the
Henry Electric System, are being operated with great success. The National City

SAN DIEGO BAY.
A Thing: of Beauty
and a
Great Commercial
Factor.

206 OVES THE SANGE
& Otay Railway Company have twenty-nine miles of steam motor lines and three-
fourths of a raile of horse-car line under operation. These lines centre in the city,
and afford frequent and rapid communication to all parts and to the suburban
towns and valleys. The bay of San Diego is one of the most beau
tiful in the world; it is also a great factor in the
success of the city. There are larger harbors than
this, but for the uses to which harbors are devoted,
there are none better anywhere than that of San
Diego, and it is large enough to afford a safe refuge
for the entire merchant fleet of the United States.
The bay is thirteen miles long, and the total area
df water is twenty-two square miles. Comraodore
C. P. Patterson, Superintendent of the United States Coast Survey, wrote in 1878:
" I have crossed this bar at all hours, both day and night, with steamers of
from 1,000 to 3,000 tons burden, during all seasolis of the year, for several years,
without detention. It is the only land-locked harbor south of San Francisco and
north of San Quintin, Lower California, and from a national point of view its
iraportance is so great that its preservation demands National protection, and justi
fies National expenditure."
It raay be added right here, however, that the Governraent has never acted
upon Commodore Patterson's worthy suggestion Not one dollar of Government
money has been spent in either the improveraent or preservation of .San Diego harbor.
It stands to-day as nature made it. The depth across the bar is 23 feet at mean
low water, with a rise of from 3^ feet to s'A feet at high water; and a regular
trader at this port, the ship "Jeremiah Thompson," drawing 26^ feet of water,
comes into the harbor and reaches the wharves without danger or diflSculty, bring.
ing an average cargo of 1,500,000 feet of lumber.
The history of this wonderful city reads like a romance. Previous to Novem
ber, 1885, San Diego existed chiefly as a town-site, and, measured by the corpora
tion liraits, it contained an amplitude of area. It was in, 1833 that the Pueblo of
San Diego was organized; but it was not until eleven years later, in the latter part
of the year 1844, that the people followed the usual customs of those times, and
petitioned the Governraent of Mexico (this whole country was then under Mexican
rule) for a tract of land. A few acres more or less was of no particular account to
the Mexican Government at that time, aud a grant of seventy-five square miles was
raade, "to be used, controlled and disposed of by the legally authorized represent
atives of the city." These seventy-five square miles or, to be exact and use the
figures of the surveyor who traced the lines subsequently for the Government, and
who reported that the entire Pueblo consisted of 48,556.69 acres, do now, minus
1,233.8 acres reserved by the Government for military purposes, constitute the area
of the corporation of San Diego. The question of title never arises here. That
original grant has been confirraed, and upon it rests all instruments pf sale.
The shores of the bay are dotted with suburban towns, which share the
benefits of San Diego harbor. They are separated from the City of San Diego by
distinct bounds, but it is only a matter of time when they will become integral
parts of the parent city. These towns are known as National City, Roseville and
Coronado. National City is located four railes down the bay, reckoning the distance
from the center of the business community of each city. .The two cities are how
ever, already practically merged into one, as they are one in interest and in

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

207

sentiment. National City has a population of 3,000. It is the terminus of the
Santa Fe system on the Pacific coast, and of the National City & Otay Railway
Company. A capacious wharf furnishes facilities for deep-sea vessels to unload,
and here, too, ship and rail are brought together. An olive oil mill having been
established. National City is the olive market for Los Angeles, San Bernardino and
San Diego counties. It is furnished with water from the recently completed
Sweetwater reservoir, which has a capacity of six billion gallons, and insures a
supply sufficient for a city of twenty-five thousand inhabitants.
Coronado. On Coronado Beach, just across the bay from San Diego, is a
city which has already becorae famous throughout the country. In two years' time
this wild waste of land has been transformed into a city with a population of two
thousand. It has one hotel which cost one million dollars, and others which cost
large sums; it has elegant and substantial residences; it has an iron foundry in

YOUNG AMERICA'S FRIEND.

operation, and half a dozen factories of various kinds; it has ship-ways with a
capacity for dry-docking the largest coast steamers on an hour's notice; it has
complete water, gas and sewer systems, and, as a whole, has been converted
into a veritable garden, the streets being uniformly lined with tropical trees, shrubs
and flowers. The surf-bathing of Coronado Beach is the best on the entire coast,
and probably the finest in the world. The beach slopes gently, and the sand is
hard and free from stones and ragged shells, and there is no undertow. The
temperature of the air and of the sea is about equal both in winter and summer;
consequently there are extraordinary inducements for surf bathing all the year
round. Roseville and New Roseville are located not far from the entrance
to the harbor. A fine wharf has been built there, regular ferries established, and
the works of the San Diego Nail Factory are now being erected. They will have

208

THE CLIMATE.
Sunamer the Tear
Round.

The Home of Health
and pleasure.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 209
a capacity of 500 kegs of nails a day, and will be one of the important industries of
the San Diego region.
The Sweetwater Dam. This dam is one of the engineering wonders
of this region, and an excursion to it is a most enjoyable experience. It is situ
ated about six miles back of National City, and is reached by the National City &
Otay Railroad. The dam, together with sixty-five miles of wrought iron pipe laid
frora the reservoir to National City, and to various points in that section for
irrigation purposes, cost a total of $800,000. The dimensions of the dam are as
follows : 46 feet in thickness at the base, 12 feet in thickness at the top, 75 feet
in length at the base, 396 feet in length at the top. The reservoir is three railes
long, three fourths of a mile wide, and covers 700 acres. When full it will hold
six billion gallons of water, a quantity sufficient to irrigate 30,000 acres of land and
supply a city of 50,000 people for one year, or irrigate 50,000 acres of land one
year. The climate of this region is a perpetual source
of wonder to visitors. It is stating the simple,
unquestionable fact to say that it has no equal
araong the health resorts of the world. Frora the
corapiled records of the U. S. Signal station here
we extract the following : Frora 1876 to 1885,
both years inclusive, covering a period of ten years,
and embracing a period of 3,653 days, there were
3,533 days on which the mercury did not rise above
80°; and only 120 days in ten years in which the
thermoraeter raarked a higher temperature than
80°. During these ten years there were never raore than two days in any one
raonth in which the mercury rose as high as 85°, except June, 1877, four days,
September, 1878, five days; June, 1879, two days; Septeraber, 1879, four days.
Returning to Los Angeles. The lovers of fine scenery, yachting,
ocean bathing, salt sea fishing, outings araong the hills, and those who delight in
a summer which circles the entire year, will most reluctantly tear themselves away
from the charms of San Diego. But one can't travel and stand still at the same
time; so we takea night train northward on the sarae Hne we carae in on, and
sleep sweetly in one of Pullman's Palaces until we reach Colton. Here, after a
good breakfast, we take the Southern Pacific road for Los Angeles, thus passing
through new scenes frora this point on to our destination. The first station reached
after leaving Colton is
Cucamonga. This town is situated in the region made farailiar to the
public by the Cucaraonga wine, the j;rapes here being noted for their fine quality.
Slover Mountain is near Cucamonga, and is reraarkable for containing quarries of
onyx, lirae, marble and cement. The " Mountain " is in reality only a raoderate
sized conical hill, but its rich deposits make it more valuable than a whole range of
its big brothers. The raarble is of the best quality, and can be quarried in great
blocks, fifty feet long, if desired, and with a width of from five to six feet. The
onyx is white, and is mined in large quantities for ornamental uses. Along the
southern foot of Slover raountain flows the river Santa Ana.
Ontario is located on the raain lines of the Southern Pacific and the Santa
Fe Railways, the main depot being on the Southern Pacific, 38 miles from Los
Angeles and 20 from Colton, while the Santa Fe runs two miles north, the station
being North Ontario. From the Southern Pacific depot, a branch line extends to

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

213

Chino. The Southern Pacific and San
ta Fe run also three trains daily each
way, thus affording first-class railway
facilities ; Ontario coraprises some 12,-
000 acres, located on the mesa which
slopes south gradually frora the Sierra
Madre Mountains to the Santa Ana
River. It is in the west part of what is
commonly known as the San Bernardino
Valley, and occupies the highest point
passed by rail or carriage road between
Los Angeles and San Bernardino. The
lands reach frora the mountains around
the San Antonio caiion to the Chino
Ranch, a distance of about nine miles,
and (he Colony ranges in width from
one to three railes. The altitude is a
little less than 1,000 feet at the ranch
line, and the grade is about 100 feet
to the raile, increasing a little nearer
the mountains, the mouth of the caiion
being about 2,200 feet above sea
level. The scenery around Ontario is of
the most striking and attractive char
acter. To the northwest rise the
Sierra Madre Mountains, while to the
east towers the San Bernardino Range,
and to the west slumbers the dreamy
Pacific Ocean. As special landmarks
in this striking scene are the four .
highest peaks of Southern California,
namely: Mount San Bernardino and
Old Grayback to the east, San Jacinto
to the southeast, and Mt. San Antonic
(Old Baldy) adjoining the Ontario
tract on the north. Ontario occupies
the elevated plateau between the San
Bernardino Mountains and the ocean.
The raountains being closely adjacent.
and the sea being forty railes distant.
The settler can choose his altitude
from 900 to 2,500 feet, and by so

SAN ANTONIO FALLS. ONTARIO, CAL

212

OVES THE SANGE

doing find exactly the climate that is suited to his personal tastes. On
the higher slopes of Ontario we can see orange groves bearing fruit and
flowers in delightful profusion, suggesting the breezes of " Araby. the Blest,"
while half a dozen miles distant on the mountain peaks gleams the arctic
snows. Nowhere in the world are summer and winter brought into closer juxtapo
sition. The zones of perpetual summer and never-ending winter are separated
only by the San Antonio Caiion. Nor is it scenery alone which recommends the
"Model Colony "of Ontario. Here are the best fruit lands in this country of
fruit producing acres. Here the orange and the lime grow most perfectly and
most abundantly; here deciduous fruits flourish, and here, in a word, is the fruit
growers' paradise. It is alleged that orange groves at less than four years of age
have produced, and frequently do produce, from $300 to $500 worth of fruit per
acre. So great is the fertility, indeed, that three year old trees have been known
to produce a full box of oranges each. But oranges are not the sole products of
this wonderful soil. There are grown in great profusion the olive, peach,
apricot, guava, prune, pear, apple, persimmon, plum, raisin and grape, and when
one has mentioned these, he has only begun the list." For residence there can be
no pleasanter place than Ontario, and for horticulture and arboriculture surely no
place can claim precedence. One of the prettiest towns in the San Bernardino
Valley is Pomona, in the eastern part of Los
Angeles county, thirty miles from the city of Los
Angeles and thirty miles from the Pacific Ocean
northward and fifty railes eastward. The Sierra
Madre range of mountains — average elevation of
g,ooo feet above the sea, with snow-capped peaks —
are distant six miles north, and Mt. San Bernardino
(height 11,000 feet) and Mt. San Jacinto (about
the same height) forty and fifty miles eastward,
The lower range, called the San Jose Hills, midway
between the Sierra Madre Range and the ocean, terminates at the city, and the
great valley widens at this point to twenty-five and thirty miles.
Thus these high mountain ranges protect this valley equally from harsh sea
winds and the unpleasant dry winds and sand-storms of the desert. The altitude
of the city is 860 feet above the sea, the valley rising gradually to 2,000 feet at the
foot of the mountains. The iraraediate locality bears a similar relation to the
mountains and the ocean as the celebrated health resorts of Mentone and Nice.
A ride through the streets of the city, or along the many roads traversing the
country in every direction, will disclose many fine residences; also cosy, comforta
ble homes. Houses, which are neither large nor costly, show the refinement of
true comfort and adaptation tothe wants of the owners. The mild, open winters,
and consequent freedom from cold, do not require as expensive houses as in east
ern and northern climates; therefore the house is open, cheery and home-like in its
appointments, many with broad verandas for the open-air life of the occupants
during most of the days of the year; and yet the individuality of the owner is as
plainly seen in the architecture and plan of the modest home as the more preten
tious building of the city or in older communities; for these quiet homes are sur
rounded by groves of trees, many of them evergreen — rows of vines extending
almost as far as the eye can reach — with roses and flowers from the roadside to and
surrounding the house, the whole deeply impressing the visitor with the air of

POMONA.
Health aud Pleasure
Kesort.
A Fruit Growing: Para
dise.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 213
home-like comfort and cheerfulness everywhere prevailing. The town is amply
supplied with water, this precious fluid being obtained frora three sources, naraely,
San Antonio Caiion, nuraerous cienegas which encircle the valley, and which are
fed by subterranean strearas from the high mountains and artesian wells. There
are in this valley some of the finest flowing wells upon the continent, sorae of which
have given an undiminished flow for nearly ten years. There are now flowing in
the Pomona Valley sixty-seven wells, fifty-two of which are owned by the Pom
ona Land and Water Company, who .nre extending their works at different points
and incieasing the number. These waters are alike free frora alkaline, saline or
raineral taint, and deliciously cool and invigorating. The right to use water for
irrigation is sold with the land, so that there need be no fear of a lack of this neces
sity upon the part of those who settle here.
As Pomona is directly suggestive of the subject of fruit, and as fruit culture
is the great industry of Southern California, this is an appropriate place to introduce
a few statistics on the subject. We condense the following facts from reliable
documents: The cost of raw land may safely be placed at $150 per acre, which is about an
average, according to location. In the following estimates for a vineyard, the
Zinfandel and Berger grapes have been taken, varieties which have been tested
here, and which have proven highly satisfactory: r
Ten acres of land, @ $150 per acre  $1,500
Two plowings, leveling, etc., @ $5 per acre  50
Cost of cutting for 10 acres   50
Planting, @ $5 per acre  - 50
Care for two years, @ f 15 per acre  .--  300
Total cost till brought to bearing  - $i,950
Crop third year, 5 tons to acre, @ $20 per ton  $1,000
Crop fourth year, 7 tons to acre, @ $20 per ton  1,400
Crop fifth year, 10 tons per acre, @ $20 per ton  2,000
Total for three years  -  $4>400
Deduct cost of care for third year, fourth and fifth years, @
$15 per acre  .   % 450
Cost of 'and, vineyard, etc    1.950
Interest 2 -ears, @ 10 per cent   --  390 $2,790
Net profit, five years   —  -  $1,610
This estimate supposes that all the work is hired. If a man is not afraid to
take hold and do most of the work himself, which he can easily do, the expense
account would be materially smaller.
Prunes promise to be a most profitable fruit, and have proven themselves at
horae in this valley.
Cost of ten acres of land, as given above  $1,500
Plowing, etc   --  -  50
Cost of prune trees for ten acres  180
Planting  5°
Care for 3 years @ $15 per acre per year  45°
Cost of lo-acre prune orchard to time of bearing  $2,230

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 215
The fourth year the account stands about thus:
Crop, lOO lbs. per tree and io8 trees per acre, 108,000 lbs.,
@ 2cts. per lb   $2,160
Fifth year, 150 lbs. per tree, 162,000 lbs., @ 2 ets  3,240 $5,400
Deduct cost of orchard _     $2,230
Interest on $2, 230 for 3 years, @ 10 per cent.  669 $2,899
Net profits for five years  ..  $2 ,501
Other deciduous trees will show about the same result. As has been stated,
the expense account can be largely decreased if a man is willing to take hold and
work. One horse will do all the cultivating ; thirty dollars will buy all the im-
pleraeas needed, and there need be no expense for hired help until the grapes or
fruit are to be gathered, and enough potatoes and other vegetables can be raised
on the land to furnish a living for the first few years.
Beyond Pomona are a number of sraall stations possessing all the requisites of
climate, soil and scenery to become thriving towns; which, doubtless, will be the
outcome in a few years. At present, however, they possess only a statistical value
to the tourist. These stations occur in the following order: Spadro, Lemon,
Puenta, Monte and Savanna.
San Gabriel. This is the site of the famous Mission of San Gabriel, or, to
give it the full honors of its stately Spanish title, "El Mission de San Gabriel
Arcangel." The Mission was founded Septeraber 8, 1771, and was moved from
the original site to its present position in 1775. The mission church is plainly to
be seen from the car windows to our right, just after the station has been passed,
and is a most interesting relic of what in the new world may be called antiquity,
having been erected, in 1804, of raaterial imported frora the mother coimtry, Spain.
Beyond San Gabriel are the suburban stations to Los Angeles, of Alharabra,
Shorb and Aurant. The handsorae suburban villas which dot the landscape on
each hand rapidly increase in number as the city is approached, and soon we are
rolling along between continuous rows of houses, and finally come to a stop at the
Southern Pacific Railroad's depot, in Los Angeles.
The trip from Los Angeles to Santa Monica,
one of the famous bathing resorts of the Pacific
coast, is not only justified by what one finds at the
end of his journey, but also by the pleasures
enjoyed e% route. The Southern Pacific Company
runs four trains to the beach each day— a distance
of sixteen miles ; and on Sunday the exodus
to this faraed seaside resort is soraething ex
traordinary. For three or four railes after leav
ing the station, we pass through suburbs of
Los Angeles. Handsorae villa residences, sur
rounded by beautiful and raost attractive grounds,
are to be seen on every side. At last, reaching the open country, we pass through
a constant succession of vineyards and fruit orchards, until the near presence of the
ocean is made known by refreshing saline breezes and the occurrence of sand dunes
and salt marshes. The train stops at a handsorae depot, beyond whch extends a
large well-kept and beautiful park. It is difficult for one accustomed to the

SANTA MONICA.
The
liOng: Branch
of
the Pacific.
A charming Sea Shore
Watering Place.

216-

OVES THE SANGE

varying seasons of the lands across the mountains to comprehend the fact that this
beautiful park, with its luxuriance of sub-tropical vegetation, its affluence of
delicate and vari-tinted flowers, is never less verdant, less brilliant or less attrac
tive than it is now. It is not easy to grasp the fact that all the year round, equally
as comfortably on the first of January as on the first of June, one can sport among

3(X
u

.CJ H
O

the combing billows that come rolling in across the blue, serene Pacific. The
attractions of Santa Monica are manifold,— beach-driving, surf-bathing, fishing,
boating, yachting, are the sea-ward delights; while on the shore are all the charms
which nature has so opulently spread for the pleasure of those who visit this
favored spot, together with all the ingenious devices invented by man for amuse
ment and relaxation. Of course, it goes without saying that there is a magnificent
beach hotel, whose broad verandas face the sea, and whose appointments ar

ari i,r-,m-

TO THE GOLDEN GATE, 217
plete in all respects ; also, of course, there are bath-houses of araple accoraraoda-
tions. There are raany points of scenic interest within easy reach of Santa Monica.
One of the raost charming is that to Santa Monica caiion, to which the Southern
Pacific Company has extended its line, and Manville Glen, a spot made cool and
inviting by ancient forest trees and a rippling brook, all embraced by rugged
mountain surroundings. This is a favorite camping ground, where pleasure and
health seekers pitch their tents and spend raonths in the calm enjoyment of this
sylvan retreat. Santa Monica is a great health resort, and experience has proved
its excellence in this regard. It possesses, the year round, one of the raost en
joyable and healthy climates in the world, being from ten to fifteen degrees cooler
than Los Angeles and the interior country in summer, and warmer in winter.
There is a magnificent driving beach stretching away for fifteen miles, good sea
fishing, an abundance of water fowl in the neighboring lagoons, and game in the
mountains a few miles distant. The climate of Santa Monica and vicinity is
worthy of somewhat extended notice. In a general way we can sura up the cli-
raatic conditions of the Southern CaHfornia coast as follows : So far as the
amount of rainfall is concerned throughout Southern California, the rainy season
simply signifies that during that period, exclusively, not exceeding 18 inches may
fall. The average annual rainfall at San Diego is only 10.43 inches. Following
up the coast to San Francisco, it increases at the rate of about 2 inches for every
100 miles. Santa Monica receives about 13 inches, Santa Barbara 15 inches,
Monterey 17 inches, and San Francisco 21 inches. The Coast Range of moun
tains, rising to an elevation of from 2,000 to 4,000 feet, robs the ocean rain-
freighted clouds of all their precious birrden before reaching the interior plains
and valleys. At Fort Yuma, on the Colorado River and Desert, the mean annual
rainfall is only 2.54 inches ; among the little valleys extending from San Diego to
the San Jacinto Mountains, frora 7 to 9 inches ; in the valley of San Bernardino,
and at Colton, Riverside and Cocamongo, 10 inches ; advancing toward the coait,
Spadra and El Monte receive about II inches ; and Los Angeles, situated 20 railes
from the ocean, about 14 inches. Crossing the San Bernardino Mountains to the
Mojave Plains, the yearly rainfall is only from 3 to 4 inches, and from thence up
the San Joaquin Valley as far as Goshen, in latitude 36 degrees, it ranges from 3
to 6 inches ; from thence, northward, it increases to 15.10 at Stockton and 18 23
at Sacramento. Taking it all in all, Santa Monica is a place of great interest.
We have said nothing about the town so far, but must not neglect to state that
there is a town, and a very pretty one at that. It is situated on the level mesa,
which stretches back landward from the brink of the natural sea wall, from whose
foot extends the level beach outward to the ocean rim. The residences are taste
ful, many of them elegant, the business blocks substantial, and every eleraent of
corafort and convenience forthe health or pleasure seeker can be found here.
Port LiOS Angeles. Twenty railes west of the city of Los Angeles is
where the Southern Pacific Company have built their Mammoth Wharf, the longest
ocean pier in the world. The total length of the structure is 4 620 feet. The
coal bunkers are fitted with every convenience for rapid handling of coal cargoes
from ship to bunker and then to car, and are 8 6 feet long, 36 feet wide, and 36
feet high, with a capacity for 8,000 tons of coal. Depot buildings and freight
sheds are 384 feet in length, containing ample waiting room accommodations and
an excellent restaurant. The fishing from the wharf is the best on the coast.
Bait and tackle- can be had on the wharf. The large steamers of the P. C. S. S.
Co. stop at Port Los Angeles north and south bound for passengers and freight.

218

OVES THE SANGE

while deep sea and coasting vessels are coming and going at all times. Fare, 50
cents ; round trip, 75 cents ; round trip Saturday and Sunday, good to return
until Monday, 50 cents.
LiOng Beach. We have already described the greater portion of the trip
from Los Angeles to Long Beach in that portion of this book devoted to the jour
ney from Los Angeles to San Pedro. We follow the same line in our excursion
to the Beach as far as the Junction, at which point our train takes the line to the
left, and rolling along through a level country, encroached upon here and there by
the salt marshes of the ocean, but passing many fertile and attractive spots, soon
reaches Long Beach, the goal of our journey. This popular resort is only twenty-
five miles distant from Los Angeles, and can be reached in an hour's ride from the
city. Surf-bathing may be enjoyed here the year round, and the accommodations
are coraplete in every respect. The beach itself is one of the greatest attractions
of the place. The sands are left hard and compact by the retiring tide, and the
drive along the raargin of the ocean is undoubtedly the finest to be found any
where on the California coast. Long Beach has a wharf which extends a distance
of 750 feet in the ocean, reaching water deep enough to float vessels of the heaviest
tonnage by its side. Long Beach has already become a resort of great popularity,
and the excellence cf its be ich, its attractive scenery and fine hotel combine to
render this popularity greater every day.

CALIFORNIA'S MAMMOTH GRAPE VINE.

SAUNTERINGS AROUND SAN FRANCISCO.

FTER enjoying the delights of Southern California, the tourist can
return to San Francisco from Los Angeles over the same route by
which the southward journey was made, or he can take stearaer at
Santa Barbara, San Pedro or Port Los Angeles, and have the
pleasuie of a delightful coast voyage. Having once raore estab
lished headquarters in the metropolis, he will be ready to make excursions to the
points of interest adjacent to the city.
San Francisco to Monterey. It was a bright, genial California
day, when we took the cars of the Coast Division of the Southern Pacific Rail
road, at the station opposite the immense brick building at the corner of Fourth
and Townsend streets, in which are the general offices of this great railroad com
pany. We were bound for Monterey, famous for its bathing and its Rosamond's
Bower — the world-renowned Hotel del Monte. Our course is southward through
the city for a distance of four miles. Two miles from the station are the machine
shops of the railroad company. Valencia street station is reached in another mile;
here the cable line through the center of the city to Oakland Pier crosses the
track. Beyond this station the suburbs of the city are entered. On the right,
occupying an elevated position, is the Industrial School building. Bernal is
passed, and numbers of market-gardens, with an intricate and interesting system of
terraces and irrigating ditches, pipes and flumes. Holy Cross Cemetery is seen to
our left, then Coloma, Ocean View and Baden come next, and then we approach
quite near the shore of San Francisco Bay, reaching this point by means of a
sharply descending grade.
San Bruno. Here are the rifle ranges of the shooting club;, situated on
the shore of the bay; and here also is a large hotel, a popular resort for the sports
men who congregate at this place. (Population, 50. Distance from San Francisco,
14 railes. Elevation, 15 feet.)
Millbrae. This is the station for the country-seat of Mr. D. O. Mills,
president of the Bank of California, and his palatial residence can be seen about
half a raile distant to the right, characterized by two lofty towers. Just beyond
the station is the Millbrae Dairy, with a raultitude of buildings showing the
great extent of this enterprise. Handsorae residences can be seen on the right, the
left side being next the bay, and given over to raeadow lands and cultivated fields,
diversified by occasional groves. (Population, 300. Distance from San Francisco,
17 miles. Elevation, 8 feet.)
Fair Oaks. This station is the site of raost attractive groves of live oaks,
frora which it takes its name. (Distance from San B'rancisco, 31 miles.)
San Mateo. Surrounding San Mateo are a number of the raost elegant
country-seats in California. Wealth has concentrated its forces here, and every
thing that raoney can do, when eraployed unstintedly and intelligently, has been
done to beautify the scene. The art of the landscape gardener has here been
exercised to its fullest extent, and the grounds which surround these palaces of
San Franciscan millionaires are bewildering visions of arboreal and floral beauty.
As we advance after leaving the station, the race track is passed on the right, also
the Young Ladies Seminary. The bay is on the left. Groves of oak, eucalyptus
219

OLD MISSION CHURCH — MONTEREY.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

221

trees and endless orchards stretch away to the right as far as vision can reach.
Four railes beyond San Mateo is Belmont, the station for the country-seat of the
late banker king, John Ralston, which is one of the most noted country residences
near San Francisco, and during the life of its owner it was the scene of a most
generous and lavish hospitality. The statistics of San Mateo are as follows:
(Population, 1,500.
Distance from San
Francisco. 21 railes.
Elevation 22 feet.)
Redwood.
This town is the
county-seat of San
Mateo county, and
derives its name frora
the proximity of
extensive redwood
forests to the west
ward. Great quan
tities of redwood
lumber, firewood and
bark are shipped from
this station. Arte--
sian wells furnish
water for the town,
which is well built
and supplied with all
of the modern con
veniences. The trib
utary industries, in
addition to lumber
ing, are fruit raising
and agriculture.
(Population, 1,600.
Distance from San
Francisco, 28 miles.
Elevation, 9 feet.)
Menlo Park is
noted as the residence
of a large number of
San Francisco's most
wealthy business men
and gentlemen of
leisure. It is a bower
of beauty in the
heart of umbrageous
groves, raade still
more lovely and attractive by flowers of every hue and a generous abundance of
ornaraental shrubs and trailing vines. It goes without saying that all that the genius
of the architect can devise has been done to make the country residences equal
in beauty with their surroundings. (Population, 400.
CISCO, 32 miles.

MAP
Showing Route

'PAmmBWS

VtNf^CIt SS.

Distance from San Fran-

Elevation, 64 feet.)

222 OVER THE SANGE
Leland Stanford, Jr., University. The site of this university,
which has an endowraent of $20,000,000, and is a monument of parental affection,
is Palo Alto, near Mayfield, two miles beyond Menlo Park. There are 4,291 acres
of land in the grounds belonging to the university estate.
AlviSO. This station is at the head of San Francisco Bay, and from this
point great quantities of fruit, especially of the smaller varieties, are shipped by
boat to San Francisco. (Population, no. Distance from San Francisco, 38 miles.
Elevation, 8 feet.)
Santa Clara was foundea by the Jesuits in 1774, and has for its site a
most beautiful region, being near the centre of the fertile Santa Clara Valley.
The climate is noted for its healthfulness and equability. This valley is one of the
best wheat regions in the state, and is also noted for the abundance and fine
quality of its fruit. Santa Clara and San Jose are twin cities, being only three
miles apart.
Frora San Jose, the Alameda, a broad and famous avenue lined with ancient
willows, leads to the old town of Santa Clara, four miles distant. The Mission of
Santa Clara was founded by Father Pena, in 1777, and the old adobe walls are
slill crurabling away. Twelve miles by rail takes us to the famous New Almedan
quicksilver mines, which furnish half the quicksilver the world produces, and gives
employraent to several hundred miners. The mountains are picturesque, easily
reached, abound in trout and game, and contain many health and pleasure resorts,
besides presenting every attraction to camping parties. (Population, 3,000. Dis
tance from San Francisco, 44 miles. Elevation, 75 feet.)
The raetropolis of the Santa Clara Valley is
San Jose, the county seat of Santa Clara county,
and the Garden City of the Pacific Coast. It is a
progressive and rapidly growing city, with a popula
tion of 25,000. It is fifty miles distant from San
Francisco, with which it has rapid and convenient
coraraunication by three lines of railroad, operated
by the Southern Pacific Company, giving trains
either way at all times of day, tickets being inter
changeable on all the routes. It is also convenient
to the most charming seaside resorts in the world,
Santa Cruz and Monterey, and two special excursion trains are run to these places
weekly. The beautiful surroundings and delightful climate of the valley already
briefly alluded to, its many elegant and costly homes, its shaded streets and
avenues literally embowered in trees of perpetual verdure, and the many social
and other advantages which wealth and culture have bestowed, make San Jose the
place for an ideal home.
There are twenty three churches in San Jose, and its educational facilities are
unsurpassed. The five public schools are not excelled in the state, and a high
school with an advanced curriculum crowns the system. There are here, besides,
sorae of the best known educational institutions on the Pacific Coast. The
University of the Pacific is a Methodist institution of high rank; the State
Normal School and the College of Notre Dame are centrally located, and at Santa
Clara, three miles distant, is the Santa Clara College, an institution located on the
site of the old Santa Clara Mission At Palo Alto, few miles to the northwest,
are the buildings of the Leland Stanford, Jr., University, one of the grandest
educational institutions of the world, having an endowment of $20,000,000.

SAN JOSE.
Metropolis of Santa
Clara Valley.
The Garden City of the
Pacific Coast.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

223

There are also, in and about San Jose, several other minor educational institutions.
Besides the vast and only partial developed resources of the Santa Clara and three
small but fertile tributary valleys, San Jose has many industries as a basis for her

prosperity. Recent experiment has shown that the Santa Clara Valley is one oi
the most favorable regions in the world for the propagation of the silk worm, and
the infant silk industry is already represented by a raanufactory of dress silks.
There are four large fruit canneries, three glove factories, two flouring mills, a
large woolen mill, and a great number of other industries. Four miles away are
the great Lick paper mills. (Population, 25,000. Distance from San Francisco,
50 miles. Elevation, 86 feet.)

-,<¦. i

^8 "^
3ff

t
i^

s. -

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 225
The Liick Observatory. Throughout this region are many points and
features of interest. First in importance is the great Lick Observatory, whose
dome glistens in the sunlight on the top of Mount Hamilton, twenty-six miles
away, and at an altitude of 4 443 feet. Here is now in place one of the most pow
erful telescopes in the world. For this observatory the late James Lick bequeathed
$700,000, and the property now belongs to the University of California. Daily
stages run to the summit over a magnificent winding road, which cost Santa Clara
county $100,000. From the sumrait, on a clear day, the view is one of indescrib
able beauty and grandeur. The great dorae of the observatory can be plainly seen
to the left, from the windows of the train, after San Jose has been left behind.
Two delightful side trips from San Jose are those to Los Gatos and Santa Cruz.
Los G-atOS. Nine railes from San Jose, on the direct narrow gauge line to
Santa Cruz, lies Los Gatos, a thriving town of 2,000 inhabitants, which nestles
amid picturesque surroundings, on the eastern slope of the Santa Cruz Mountains.
It is within the Santa Clara Valley, partaking of all the material and climatic
blessings of that lovely region; but it- also lies within the thermal, or warm, belt,
and so enjoys an added advantage and attraction. This thermal belt is an interest.
ing phenomenon, and is observed in all the foot hills of the bay region. It is due
to the fact that when the cooler airs of night flow into the broad valley below,
sometimes lowering the temperature until frost is formed, the warm air rises and
rests at a higher altitude, preserving in a wide strip of country along the raountain
sides a higher temperature at night and a more equable climate than is found in
the valley below. About Los Gatos, the strip of country so affected is six miles in
width. The change is quickly noted in a drive frora San Jose to Los Gatos in the
cool of the evening. This condition gives to Los Gatos a truly Arcadian air that
is a perpetual delight to the visitor or resident. It is this which makes the success
ful cultivation of the orange, lemon and other citrus fruits possible here. The soil
here is as rich and fertile as in any portion of the valley, and this with the perfect
climate, pure and balmy airs, and the ever-present beauty and abundance which
has followed the efforts of labor and capital, make of this particular region a veri
table Eden.
The country about Los Gatos is noted for its fruit, and the whole slope is
covered with profitable vineyards and orchards, wherein plums, peaches, prunes,
apricots, pears, apples, olives, figs, cherries, oranges, lemons and other fruits
attain a rare perfection. English walnuts are extensively raised, and the largest
almond orchard in the world is located here. Owing to its proximity to San
Francisco, and its unequaled attractions as a place of residence, Los Gatos has
become the suburban residence place of a number of San Francisco men of wealth,
and a special suburban train is run to the town. (Population, 2,000. Distance from
San Francisco, 55 miles. Elevation, 400 feet.)
One of the loveliest cities of California is that
of Santa Cruz. Occupying a charming site on the
seashore at the north end of the crescent-shaped bay
of Monterey, it is at the mouth of the San Lorenzo
river, and recedes from a beautiful beach, extending
to a broad plateau and two terraces rising above it,
surrounded by protecting hills.
Santa Cruz is the most popular and fashionable
seaside resort in- the state, and is termed the New
port of the Pacific Coast. During the sumraer
season people flock to this beautiful city by the thousands, especially from

SANTA CRUZ.
The Newport ofthe
Faclflc Coast.

Health and Pleasure
Kesort.

t-^M- f' ¦<¦:.
¦?':i J. V. /<*-^ .., - aHI
^ • li- v^Km^- -.¦.•':^>'«- #

t- V.

.-'41 ¦¦•>

iid I- '. ••»]

U---'i\-^'--4y'^
4. .Z3»-> -I Ul

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.
the cities; and during the "season," the population is increased to ten or
twelve thousand. Its bathing is its pride and its glory, aud with its lovely beach
of clean, white sand, its fine bath houses, and its safe and delightful waters, its
attractions in this line are unequaled. While the crowds are greatest during the
vacation season, between May and September, the bathing is delightful the whole
year round. Excursion trains are run to this place from San Francisco every
Saturday and Sunday.
The place itself has all the features of a raodern progressive city, among which
may be mentioned electric lights, gas, fine water systera, fire department, street
cars, free library, telephones, three daily and two weekly papers, two banks, hand
some public buildings, fine schools and nuraerous churches. It has raagnificent
streets, many being paved with bituminous rock, and its sidewalks are exceptionally
good. Its great number of cosy and attractive homes are among its chief features.
The climate of Santa Cruz and surrounding country is unsurpassed by that of
any other part of the state. It is remarkably equable, the average temperature for
winter being 52 degrees, and for summer 62 degrees. The difference between the
extremes of the year is always sraall. Epideraics are unknown, and health and
vigor is imparted to invalids, as well as to the strong. Rare roses, and other
blooms which in the East are hot-house plants, are culled from gardens every week
in the year.
In the raountains and valleys about Santa Crnz, there is an alraost endless
array of attractions. The mountains are exceedingly picturesque, abound in trout
and game, offer great attractions to the camper, are full of beautiful cations and
nooks, and the views to be obtained are of surpassing beauty and grandeur. Ben
Lomond is the highest peak, and is reached by four delightful routes. Five miles
from Santa Cruz is a famous group of redwoods, known as the " Big Trees." The
largest is 300 feet in height and 60 feet in circumference There are several
valleys of great beauty and fertility, the raost noted being the Pajaro Valley. In
the valleys and on the mountain slopes fruits of all kinds are extensively grown,
with as great success as anywhere in the state, and general farming is easy and
profitable. The dairying interests are extensive, and the forests are still large and
dense. The county is the second in the state in manufactures. This is a region of
flowers and perpetual suramer, with every attraction for residence, and offering
great inducements for investments. (Population, 7,000. Distance from San
Francisco, 80 miles. Elevation, 15 feet.)
Castroville. Resuming our journey at San Jose for Monterey, we pass
through an interesting and fertile country until Castroville is reached. From this
point a branch extends down to Monterey, the raain line running to Terapleton.
Around Castroville is one of the greatest wheat growing regions of California.
The ordinary yield is frora 40 to 50 bushels to the acre, though as high as 102
bushels have been grown here— the largest yield on record. (Population, 600.
Distance from San Francisco, no miles. Elevation, 17 feet.)
Frora Castroville we follow the curving shore of the Bay of Monterey; at
times within a short distance of the shore, and at others somewhat farther inland.
Sand dunes and salt marshes testify to the nearness of the ocean.
Del Monte. In the heart of a lovely grove the train stops at a tasteful
rustic pavilion, which is the station. Broad, graveled roads sweep up to the
station in graceful curves, and here stand waiting richly appointed four-horse
carriages, in which guests for the famous Hotel del Monte are conveyed to their
destinailon. Glimpses of the hotel to the left can be caught through the interstices
of the trees; while vines and shrubs and flowers grow everywhere in studied and

THE

HOTEL DEL MONTE.

A Palace of Dellgrht.

The Queen of American

Watering Places.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 229
artistic confusion. The drive to the hotel along the broad, tree lined avenues,
shaded by immeraorial and stately live oaks, through which vistas of sylvan beauty
can be seen, gives one a foretaste of the charms of this one of the most charming
places in the world. The hotel is first seen through a vista of trees,
and, in its beautiful embcwerraent of foliage and
flowers, resembles some rich private home in the
midst of a broad park. This irapression is height
ened when the broader extent of avenues, lawns
and flower-bordered walks corae into view. The
gardener's art has turned raany acres into a choice
conservatory, where the richest flowers blossom in
profusion. Here and there are swings, croquet
grounds, an archery, lawn-tennis courts, and bins
of fine beach sand — the latter being intended for the use and amuseraent
of the children, who can not await the bathing hour for the daily visit to
the beach. The use of all these, as well as of the ladies' billiard saloon, is free to
guests. In all directions there are seats for loungers. Through a vista forraed
by the umbrageous oaks and pines, the huge, bulbous forms of a varied family of
cacti are seen. In another place is a bewildering maze. Everywhere flowers and
rare plants abound, and every avenue and pathway is bordered by intricate floral
devices. In any direction the eye raay turn are fresh visions of beauty. In the
/all of 1883 a great improvement was consummated in the introduction of an
abundant supply of pure, soft water frora the Carmel river. Extensive water
works were constructed at an expense of over half a million dollars. The supply not
only meets every requirement of the hotel, but also feeds the great fountain in the
lake. The Del Monte Bathing Pavilion is situated on the beach, about eight
minutes' walk from the hotel, and is one of the largest and most complete establish
ments of the kind in the world. It is seventy feet wide by one hundred and seventy
long. There are four tanks of about thirty-six feet wide by fifty feet long. The
water in these tanks ranges in temperature frora cold up to warm, and the bather
can take his choice. The heating is done by steam, and the water is daily changed.
The pavilion contains two hundred and ten dressing-rooms, one-half of which
is set apart for the use of ladies. Each of the latter is fitted up with a freshwater
shower bath, while on the gentlemen's side fourteen shower baths serve for ail.
The pavilion and everything connected with it is kept scrupulously clean, and
always presents a pleasing appearance. When filled with bathers and spectators,
it presents a spectacle which, in point of animation and interest, would be hard
to surpass. Outside of this pavilion is a beautiful sandy beach, on which surf-
bathing may be indulged. An adjunct of the Hotel del Monte is its 18 raile
drive, over a splendidly-kept macadaraized road, by way of Monterey, Pacific
Grove, Cypress Grove, Carrael Bay, and the old Mission Church. The reader will
remember the sensation which was created several years ago by the burning of the
Holel del Monte. From its ruins there has arisen a new Del Monte — larger, raore
beautiful and complete than the old one. The new Del Monte is in its main front
and general style of architecture an exact copy of the old Del Monte, which was
universally pronounced, by thousands of famous visitors from all countries, to have
been the raost graceful and elegant building of its class in the world. The new
building, by increasing and extending its annexes, has nearly double the accomraoda
tions of the old one. These annexes are connected together by two arcades of
class and iron, three stories in height, which virtually makes the two annexes one

INSIDE AND OUTSIDE HEADERS— DEL MONTE.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

231

Being tully inctosed, and yet light as day, the guest experiences no inconvenience
of any kind in walking through them; on the contrary, the two arcades make
delightful little promenading places. T he dining-room is 162 by 66 feet, nearly
double the size of the old one, and will comfortably seat 500 people at once. The
park grounds surrounding the Del Monte have no equal on this coast, and it
is a mere question of time when they will have no superior anywhere. Nature
endowed them with prodigal liberality, and the owners are supplementing nature's
efforts with an equally prodigal expenditure of art. Croquet plats, an archery
ground, swings, lawn tennis grounds, choice flowers, shrubs, trees, beautiful
walks, and, in short, everything which an experienced landscape gardener's artistic
eye can suggest, is being done for the improvement of this favored spot.
Monterey. This quaint and romantic old town, the capital of California
'when the territory was acquired by the United States, and the place where
Freraont first raised the stars and stripes and took forraal possession of the
country, is one of the most interesting places to visit in California. Monterey is
situated on the lovely bay of the same name, 125 miles from San Francisco by the
Southern Pacific Railroad, and can be reached in 3^ hours by taking the fast
Monterey train, leaving the city at 2:30 P. M. This is the fastest train on the
Pacific Coast, and one of the most elegant in equipment in the world. There is
probably no place upon the Pacific Coast so replete with natural charms as
Monterey. Its exquisite beauty and variety of scenery is diversified with ocean,
bay, lake and streamlet; raountain, hill and valley; and groves of oak, cypress,
spruce, pine and other trees. The raountain views are very beautiful, particularly
the Gabilan and Santa Cruz spurs. The Bay of Monterey is a magnificent sheet of
water, and is twenty-eight railes frora point to point. It is delightfully adapted to
boating and yachting; and many kinds of fish may be taken at all seasons of the
year. For bathing purposes the beach is all that could be desired — one long, bold
sweep of wide, gently sloping, clean, white sands — the very perfection of a
bathing beach; and so safe that children may play and bathe upon it with entire
security. There are also great varieties of sea-mosses, shells, pebbles and agates,
scattered here and there along the rim of the bay, fringed, as it is at all times, with
the creamy ripple of the surf. (Population, 2,300. Distance from San Francisco,
125 railes. Elevation, 5 feet.)
-Pacific Grove, a short distance from Monterey, is to the Pacific Coast
what Nantucket, Martha's Vineyard and Ocean Grove, are to the Atlantic sea-side
resorts, except that the Pacific Grove retreat has as equable a temperature as
Monterey itself, and is kept open all the year round. It is delightfully situated oa
the beautiful Bay of Monterey, less than two miles from the old town, and in
loveliness of location cannot be excelled, its graceful pines extending to the water's
edge.

YOSEMITE VALLEY.

TO THE YOSEMITE.

O one who visits San Francisco can afford to return home without
seeing nature's great temple of wonders — the Yosemite. The way
thither has been greatly smoothed by the Southern Pacific Railroad,
and each succeeding year sees iraproveraents in this direction.
What was forraerly an undertaking of considerable raagnitude and
difficulty, has now becorae an easy journey, and one fraught with pleasure in the
taking- It is only a vacation jaunt, requiring four days to make the round trip.
The valley is 259 miles from San Francisco, 178 railes to Berende, on the
route already described in the trip to Los Angeles, thence 21 miles by rail to Ray
mond, and 60 railes by stage to the valley. It is now all rail to the foot-hills of
the Sierra Nevada Mountains, where the traveler is transferred to the most
approved pattern of stages (or carriages, really), and is delightfully whirled up
into the Land of Wonders over an excellent road, through giant tiraber, across ice
cold rivulets, and past cataracts which send their spray into the sunlight, erabel
lished with the colors of the rainbow. Mr. Ben. C. Truman, the veteran traveler
and writer of the Pacific Coast, speaks as follows concerning this wonderland:
" Some few years ago we visited the Yosemite in corapany with a gentleraan who
had traveled largely, and who had written much of the scenic attractions of Europe,
Asia and America, and who exclairaed, as we reached 'Inspiration Point': 'My
God! self-convicted as a spendthrift in words, the only terras applicable to this
spot I have wasted on rainor scenes.' And it was, unfortunately, true, that
language failed to give adequate utterance to the emotion of my friend upon that
occasion, and his hitherto facile pen failed to perform its functions with its
characteristic felicity and brilliancy. This has been the case with many, however,
if not with all others; and, thus, the pre-eminent grandeur and raagnificence of
the Yoseraite remains, after all, untold. Indeed, its charras raust really be seen
and felt; for it is an absolute fact, that neither pencil nor brush, nor photographic
process, can give them faithful protraiture. "
The Yosemite Valley is about 150 miles, in an
almost easterly direction, from San Francisco and
nearly midway of the state, between the northern
and southern boundaries; it was for many years the
rendezvous, or permanent abiding place, of hostile
Indians, who had a legend for every point of in
terest, whether of water or rock. The place was
first seen in 1850 by a number of white men, who
had formed themselves into a railitary company to
punish or corapel peace with bands of raurderous Indians; it was taken
possession of in March, 1851, by an expedition under the coraraand of Captain
Boling,! which invaded the aboriginal stronghold, killed several of its defenders,
and either stampeded or compelled peace with the rest. The valley is some
15 miles long by about one-third of that distance in width, and is undoubtedly
the most wonderful combination of chasm and dome, cliff and canon mountain
and valley, river and waterfall, cataract and streamlet, winter and summer,
233

YOSEMITE.
A Valley of Wonders.
The
Climax of Grandeur
and Beauty.

NEVAP/> FALLS
FALLS OF THE YOSEMITE.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 235
and sunshine and shadow, to be seen in the world — especially within a radius
of eight or ten miles. Among the most noted and majestic elevations, which
rise right up vertically, many of these seeming like hewn rock, are: El
Capitan, 3,300 feet above the floor of the valley; Cathedral Rock, 2,660 feet
above the valley; Three Brothers, 3,830 feet; The Sentinel, 3,043 feet, with
cascades of 3,000 feet fall, Washington Column, 1,875 feet; Dome and Royal
Arches, 3,568 feet, down which descends a cataract of 1,000 feet; The Half Dome,
4.737 feet; Cloud's Rest, 6,150 feet; Glacier Point, 3,200; Sentinel Dome, 4,150;
Eagle Point, 4,200, and many others of greater or less altitudes. The raost noted
waterfalls are the Yosemite, which first displays an unbroken descent 1,500 feet,
then 600 feet of partly hidden cataracts, and a final leap of 400 feet — 2,526 in all;
Bridal Veil, 900 feet; Vernal Falls, 400, and Nevada Falls, 600 feet. There are
many other points of interest, conspicuous among which are the Merced River,
Mirror Lake, and romantic drives and climbs without nuraber. There are a
number of good hotels in the valley, and tourists are driven right up to their doors.
The best time for visiting the falls is from the first of April until the end of July;
but it is accessible until the snows of November close up its means of ingress and
egress for several months.
The Big Trees. Thirty-five miles from Rayraond is the Wawona
Hotel (formerly Clark's) one of the most exquisite spots in the Sierra Nevada.
There is an abundance of game near by, such as bear, deer (in great plenty),
mountain quail, grouse and sraaller game, while the adjacent streams abound in
trout. It is frora this hotel that tourists make their pilgrimage to the Mariposa
Big Tree Grove, which is six miles, and is made in a carriage, and for which there
is no extra charge for those holding through tickets to and from the Yosemite
Valley. In this mighty grove there raay be seen a large nuraber of trees raore
than 300 feet in height, and varying from 50 to 93 feet in circumference, according
to Professor Whitney's official measurement.
The Calaveras Grove, which was the first one discovered (by a hunter
named A. T. Dowd, in 1852), has a magnificent lot of mammoth trees, also piercing
the clouds at heights exceeding 300 feet, and measuring 80, 90 and 100 feet around
at the ground. Most of these have marble slabs containing the names of distin
guished soldiers, navigators, statesmen, poets, travelers and authors. The
Calaveras Grove is 131 miles from San Francisco by rail, and 44 by stage — 175
miles in all. The Mammoth Grove Hotel has lately been enlarged, and can now
accommodate one hiindred guests. There is a post-oflice, express and telegraph
office at the hotel. It faces the grove, having the greater nuraber of trees to the
left, looking from the veranda, and the Two Sentinels immediately in the front,
about two hundred yards to the eastward. The valley in which the hotel is
situated contains of the Sequoia trees, ninety-three, not including those of frora on»
to ten years' growth.

The sequoia is a represen
tative of a faraily of trees, re
lated to the cypresses, which
has survived from a time
more ancient than alraost
any other family of trees. Its nearest
relative is in Japan. The name was
given by the botanist, Asa Gray, in
honor of Sequoyah, the Cherokee
chieftain. Besides the S. gigantea,
there is still another species, the S,
se-mpe-ivirens , which exists in forests
along the seaward side of the Coast
Range from San Francisco bay north
ward for over loo miles. It is these
forests which furnish the celebrated
redwood lumber ; and an illustrated
article by Ernest Ingersoll, in Har
per's Magazine for 1882, gives an
admirable account of the lumbering
operations by which these mighty trees
are utilized, and of the interesting
scenes in and about the region in which
they grow. Many specimens of the
redwood rival their big cousins near
Yosemite in size, and the whole forest
will average 250 feet in height, ivher*
full grown.

BICj TREES OF CALAVERAS.

FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO THE GREAT
NORTHWEST.

LONG reach of most interesting country lies between San Francisco
and Portland, Oregon. Seven hundred and seventy two miles
intervene between the two great cities, and it is our purpose to
take the reader with us on this journey. There are two routes by
rail ; and, of course, the ocean highway is open to all who wish to
go by steamer. The rail routes are east of the Sacramento River to Tehama, and
west of the river to the same point, 125 miles from San Francisco, where the two
lines form a junction. The route generally taken by tourists is that east of the
river ; and this is the route chosen for our journey. From San Francisco we
return on the Overland route (by which we entered the city) as far as Roseville
Junction, eighteen miles beyond Sacramento. Here we turn northward, leaving
the main line behind us, and are fairly embarked on our journey to the Great
Northwest. Lincoln is a small manufacturing town, where great quantities of pottery
and sewer pipe are made. (Population 600. Distance frora San Francisco, 119
railes. Elevation, 167 feet.)
Passing through Sheridan, a village surrounded by grazing lands, we
come to
Wheatland. Fitly named, it being in the centre of a "fine wheat region.
The town is well built, and has the usual complement of good business houses,
churches, schools, etc. (Population 600. Distancefrom San Francisco, 130 miles.
Elevation, 90 feet.)
The Yuha River. Leaving Wheatland we are soon crossing the bottom
lands of what the latest maps call the Bear River, but which "old timers " know as
the Yuba; a name which, it seems to us, should by all means be retained. The
Yuba is here a vagrant stream, inclined to "spread itself" entirely too much foi
the convenience and comfort of the farmers; hence, it has been confined within
great dykes, which extend as far as the eye can reach up and down the river. The
road crosses the bottoms on trestle work. This thriving place is the leading town of
Northern California, the depot for the product of
Yuba and Sutter Counties, and is situated at the
head of navigation on Feather River and on the
right bank of the Yuba. It has a population of
6,000. It is known throughout California as being
the neatest built city in the State. Splendid busi
ness blocks; fine residences; magnificent gardens,
where flowers bloom the year round; best of schools
and acaderaies; eight churches; large manufactur
ing interests; flour mills; finest woolen mill in the
State; fruit cannery; iron foundry, etc. The city is
lighted by gas and electricity. The water supply is considered the best in the
State. The trade of Marysville to-day is greater than any town north of Sacra-
237

MARYSVILLE.
Flourishing
Cou&mercial City.
County Seat of Vuha
County.
Population, 6,000.
Distance from
SanFrancisco,14,3 Miles
Elevation, 66 Feet.

^MH^f.

If*!-

« * "i

iVti-

JidatYf^Un}^^
TO THE GOLDEN GATE,

239

mento. It is the trade centre for a large country outside of Yuba County, it
enjoys the trade of all Yuba and Sutter, and part of Butte, Colusa, Sierra, Placer
and Nevada Counties. Two lines of railroad enter the town, and a third is now
being pushed forward. Ten trains a day enter and depart. Steamers and
barges ply on the river, carrying freight to and from San Francisco. It is one of
the terminal points on the railroad. In climate, Marysville can not be be excelled.
No extremes of heat and cold; .but a pleasant, equable temperature, equal to, if not
the superior of, the climate of Italy. Epidemic diseases of any kind never obtain
a footing here; Marysville has been singularly free frora such afflictions. With
the fast increasing tide of immigration which is now turning to California, and with
the new and varied industries which are now springing up here, as the producing
power of the lands are becoming known, Marysville will, in a short space of time,
no doubt, be one of the leading towns of California. Frosts are very rare, and
When they do occur, very little damage to vegetation results, owing to the greal

SIR JOSEPH HOOKER OAK, CHICO VECINO.
29 Feet in Circumference
dryness of the atmosphere. The same characteristics also make life very enjoyable,
and render this section one of the healthiest in the State.
Oroville is situated on the Feather River, 28 miles from Marysville. It is
the northern terminus of the Northern California Railroad, which runs from
Marysville, 28 miles to the south. The town is well built, the business buildings
being of brick, and the residences are almost universally neat and handsorae,
surrounded with lawns set with a wealth of flowers, palras and blooming orange
trees. The church and school facilities are all that could be desired. One daily
and two weekly papers are published. There is abundant water-power awaiting
the establishraent of manufactories, and a flouring mill and a large sash and door
factory are now in operation. But the glory of Oroville is mainly in the region
about it. The western part of Butte County, near the Sacramento River, is
level, the eastern part includes the western slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains,
while the central portion consists of low foothills, gradually increasing in altitude.

240 OVES THE SANGE
as the mountains are neared. This strip ot sloping foothills, twenty miles in
width, consists of a rich, gravelly soil, remarkably productive. The climate of this
region, which is known as the " Thermal Belt," is of peculiar salubrity, being
milder both in winter and summer than in the lower portion of the valley, and
reserabling that of the most favored countries about the Mediterranean Sea. The
sumraer's heat is here tempered to an even mildness, and in the winter the forma
tion of thin ice in the open air is of rare occurrence. Snow is a natural curiosity,
and outdoor work is uninterrupted the year round. The average rainfall is about
22 inches. Experiment has shown that the conditions of climate and soil make
this region the natural home of the orange, olive, lemon, fig and other semi-tropical
fruits, while all the known deciduous fruits, including the hardy apple, flourish and
yield in unsurpassed abundance. When, at the Northern California Citrus Fair,
held in January, 1886, Butte County was awarded the first premium, the people of
the county awoke to the fact that they lived in a fine orange-producing region,
and since then great numbers of orange orchards have been planted. Each
December since then a great citrus fair has been held at Oroville, and so
marked has been their success, and so wonderful their revelations and their
magnificence, that Oroville is rapidly becoming as noted as Riverside. While
citrus fruits made up the most important features of these fairs, all the products of
the county were also represented, and the Bjitte County Citrus Fairs are un
doubtedly the greatest show of the fruits of the earth ever gathered together under
one roof, including the fruits of nearly all climes, and all produced in one county.
The country about Oroville is undoubtedly the greatest fruit-producing region in
the State, offering great inducements to settlers, while it is equally wealthy in a
great variety of other resources.
Returning to Marysville we resume our northward flight, the Sacramento
Valley being on oiir left, while the Valley of the Rio de Los Plumas, or, as it is now
popularly called, the Feather River Valley, is on our right. Following this course
we pass through Live Oak, Gridley, Biggs, Nelson, Dunham, and arrive at
The largest town in Butte County, Chico,
situated on Chico Creek, five miles from the Sacra
mento River, and on the line of the California &
Oregon Railroad. Chico is the centre of the finest
agricultural portion of the county — perhaps the
finest in the State. The famous " Rancho Chico
property of Gen. John Bidwell adjoins the town on
the north, the rich and varied fruits of which have
attracted such marked attention at all fairs and
expositions throughout the United States. Chico
Creek is a clear and beautiful mountain stream, fjow-

CHICO
An Ideal Residence
City.
Population, 6,000.
Distance
frozn Sau Francisco,
186 miles.
Flevation, 193 feet.

ing sufficient water all the year to supply power for Gen. Bidwell's large flour mill,
until its capacity was so enlarged as to require the supplemental aid of steam.
Steamers run on the Sacramento River to Chico Landing and points above, carry
ing immense quantities of grain to the bay on barges. Chico is a beautiful city,
and its population is principally American, agriculture and its adjunct eiiiploy-
ments being the chief elements of its life. But it has also tributary to it a fine
mining region, up Butte Creek, and an immense lumber region to the east and
north. In this latter there are five or six large mills at work. A V-flume comes
to the city from the mountains, in which the lumber is floated from the mills to the
town, so rapidly that a few years ago a beam of timber was sawn in the mill, thirty
miles away, flumed to Chico, drawn through the town to the water-works building,

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

241

fitted for its purpose and wrought into the building, all within the working hours
of a single day. Chico has a regular town government, with police officers and an
excellent fire department, which owns two steam fire engines. It has gas and
water-works, and is supplied with electric light. There are two banks in flourish
ing condition. Seven churches, representing as raany denora nations, adorn the
city, and two large and elegant public school buildings and two private academies
are filled with children. The streets are wide, well kept and shaded. Very raany
private residences are large and handsome, and the homes of the people all indi
cate inteUigence and comfort.
Chico Vecino. This is an attractive suburb of Chico, included within the
boundaries of the well known Rancho Chico.
There are one thousand acres in the town site,
the plat of which has been laid off in five-acre
tracts. Here there will soon be one of those
delightful fruit-raising colonies for which Cali
fornia is becoraing famous. From Chico to
Tehama we roll along through a fine fruit and
agricultural country, passing the stations of
Vina, Nord, Anita, Cana, Soto and Sesma.
Tehama is the junction of the Willows
Branch of the Southern Pacific Railroad with
the main line. It is situated in a good wheat-
growing country on the west bank of the Sac
ramento River, and here irrigation is not found
necessary fer the production of crops. Stock-
raising and lurabering are large tributary in-
dustries. (Population, 700. Distance frora San
Francisco. 213 railes. Elevation, 222 feet.)
Seven railes beyond Tehama we pass
through Rawson, and five railes farther on reach
Bed Bluff, the county-seat of Tehama
County which is one of the raost thriving towns
of the State. It is a growing town in one of
the richest sections, and it has an elevated and
sightly location. Its streets are wide and well
graded, lighted by electricity; and there is no
place in the United States better drained The
Sacramento River here is a clear, rapid stream,
lined with beautiful trees and vines. On all the
three other sides there are ravines or valleys
through which streams run, which give the
perfection of drainage. Its public and business buildings are fine archi
tectural structures; and its private residences are nowhere excelled for taste.
elegance, and the beauty and the wealth of their floral surroundings. The streets
are lined with popular, elm, white maple, locust, acacia and pepper trees, whicl:
will soon raake a veritable forest city. There are also raany fine residences.
Tehama County is the great grain-growing county of the State; 8,000,000
bushels of wheat and 2,500,000 bushels of barley have been harvested in one season
from its fertile lands Tehama has about 400,000 sheep, which produce 2,500,000
pounds of wool annually. The numbers of cattle, horses, mules and swine are large.
In this county the celebrated Vina Ranch is located, embracing 56,000 acres, a

ON THE RIO CHICO.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.
princely property, which, through the unexampled generosity of Senator and Mrs.
Stanford, has become the heritage of the children and of the coming generations of
the Pacific Coast. (Population, 3,500. Distance from San Francisco, 225 railes.
Elevation, 307 feet.)
The grade is now steadily upward as we press onward in our journey. From
Red Bluff to Sissons, a distance of 113 miles, we make an ascent of 3,245 feet.

TWIN FALLS.

Through a broken country, and crossing a number of rapidly flowing creeks, we
pass through Hoi-ker and Cottonwood (small stations) and arrive at '
Anderson. Which is a beautiful and very lively town of 1,500 inhabitants.
on the line of the California & Oregon Railroad. It lies a mile and a half from
the Sacramento River, 8 miles south of Redding, and 222 miles north of Sacra
mento. The town is attractively laid out, with wide, well shaded streets,
lined with cosy and beautiful homes. The leading hotel in the place is a fine
one, costing $20,000. There are fine schools ; the usual churches ; a fine roller

244 OVES THE SANGE
fiouring mill; good, substantial brick business buildings; water works, furnishing
an abundant supply of pure water from the mountains; and a live weekly paper,
besides raany other evidences of enterprise and progress. The semi-tropical
climate of the Sacramento Valley generally prevails in the region about Anderson,
which is noted for its healthfulness. The summers are rather warm, though dry,
and the mercury rarely reaches 105 degrees, 85 degrees being about the average.
The winter, or rainy season, is delightful, and resembles April or May in the
Eastern States. (Population, 750. Distance from San Francisco, 249 miles.
Elevation, 432 feet.)
Redding. No town of Northern California has a more promising future,
and exhibits at the present tirae raore enterprise, activity and rapidity of growth
than Redding, in the southwestern part of Shasta County, of which it is the
county-seat. It is at the upper end of the great Sacraraento Valley. 169 miles
north of Sacramento, and is built on a plateau on the bank of the Sacramento
River, here a clear mountain streara which sweeps around the town to the east and
south. No town in the State has a raore charming and picturesque location. The
brief history of Redding is one of rapid progress, and never has it been more
marked than now. Its population has increased from 500 in 1883 to over 2, oeo at
the present time, and with the rapid development of the county, which will follow
the recent completion of the first railroad through this region, and the vast territory
that must remain tributary to Redding, extending in some directions a hundred
and fifty miles, a rapid and continued growth is assured. The city has water and
gas works, a great variety of manufactories, many important buildings, a fine
court house and jail, two newspapers, good schools and several churches. The
river here affords fine water power and the lumber interests of the country trib
utary to Redding are imraense. The future of this lively place depends largely
on the development of the country about it ; and with the great variety of soil,
climate and products, the thousands of acres of cheap, unoccupied lands that only
await intelligent cultivation to yield great profits, and with the other almost inex
haustible resources which the country possesses, there can be no question on this
point. During the past few years the country has made rapid strides, raany set
tlers have invested, building has amounted almost to a boom, new industries
started, and thousands of acres of orchards and vineyards have been planted.
No part of California offers such inducements to the farmer, the laboring man, the
capitalist, or the horae.seeker, as Shasta County. There is a delightful semi-
tropical climate in the valleys and plateaus of the scuth, and a gradual change is
noted as higher altitudes are reached, that of the mountains reserabling the New
England States. The climate of the southern portion of the county is indicated
by the fact that orange trees flourish and bear abundantly. The county is noted
for the number and beauty of its clear, sparkling streams, which burst from the
mountains through wild, picturesque caiions, and flow onward through small fertile
valleys of great beauty. In these mountain streams the finest trout-fishing in the
State is found. (Population, 2,500. Distance from San Francisco, 260 miles.
Elevation, 551 feet.)
AiVild Scenery. After leaving Redding our course is directly toward
the Shasta Range of raountains, and the scenery grows in grandeur as we advance.
Within a distance of 80 miles we cross the Sacramento River eighteen times, and
pass through just an even dozen of tunnels. Grander and grander grows the scene
as we advance. The roll of stations as given in the railroad time tables gives no
idea of the beauty which surrounds these villages, but as a matter of record we
will name them as follows: Middle Creek, Copley, Kennet, Morley. Elmore,

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 245
Smithson, Delta, Slatons, Gibson, Chromite, Sims, Castle Crag, Lower Soda
Springs, Chestnut, Dunsmuir, Upper Soda Springs, Cantara, Mott, McCioud and
Sisson. The Soda Springs mentioned above are of interest to the tourist and
health seeker, being medicinal in their qualities, and having good hotel accommo
dations. The Lower Spring is two miles below Dunsmuir, and the Upper Spring
one mile above. Beyond Upper Soda Springs we pass through a tremendous
gorge, whose beetling crags tower above our heads, and before McCloud is reached
we circle the Big Bend of the Sacramento River, traveling over five miles to gain
an advance of half a mile; but it must be considered that we have also gained an
additional elevation, nearly six hundred feet. At Castle Crag is the famous
" Tavern of Cast e Crag " a resort of growing prominence, from which excursions
to tbe summit of Mt, Shasta are easily made.
As we near Sisson, Mount Shasta, of which we
have obtained brief glimpses through the pines,
bursts into full view in all its sublime magnificence.
This noted snow capped peak, towers to the height
of 14,440 feet. It is an extinct volcano, and its
snows and glaciers feed hundreds of streams which
thread the wild region in every direction. Sisson is
a regular meal station, situated in Strawberry Val
ley, one of the most beautiful vales of California.
It is a new but rapidly growing town, with stores,
hotels, a weekly paper, a fine depot, and a round
house and repair shops. Here is obtained the finest
view of Shasta, and it is the only convenient point frora which the ascent can be
made. But few parties succeed in reaching the sumrait, and the atterapt is only
made in midsummer and then with trusty guides. The feat is exciting, but the
view is grand beyond description. The region about Sisson is a paradise for the
sportsman and the lover of nature. Grizzly, black and cinnamon bears abound ;
elk, deer and mountain sheep are plenty, as well as a great variety of smaller game.
The mountain streams teem with trout, and often the sport loses its zest through
the very abundance of the beauties. The McCloud and the Pitt Rivers are the
most noted streams, though others are equally attractive. The McCloud runs
through the most uninhabited and unexplored region on the coast. No region in
the State is so delightful for camping, and hundreds of parties go there every
year. At Sisson, camping and hunting parties can be provided with complete out
fits at moderate cost. As has been said, Sisson is situated at the foot of Mount
Shasta, and is noted for its magnificent scenic attractions. From Redding north
ward the California & Oregon road is the scenic route of California ; and at Sisson,
at the base of Mount Shasta, 80 railes north of Redding, the acme of interest is
reached. While there are many places in California replete with beauty and
grandeur, there are none which, for infinite variety of scenery, wildness and
abundance of everything to delight the sportsman, artist and tourist, can compare
with the region about Sisson. (Population, 250. Distance from San Francisco,
338 miles. Elevation, 3,555 feet.)
Muir's Peak. After leaving Sisson we circle the base of Muir's Peak,
locally known as " Black Butte," which rises to a perpendicular height of 3,000
feet above our heads. It is black, bare and desolate, — an extinct volcano, with

SHASTA.

The Monarch of the

Range.

Altitude: 14,440 feet

above the Sea.

X.ocal Elevation:

10,885 feet.

¦^ .J!

'W^SWtiiV .»¦.*-'
f »»».!<»-

Uh > F

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 247
half a dozen craters in plain view. We are now among the mountains, and pass
in succession the stations of Igerna, Edgewood, Gazelle, Grenada, Montague,
Snowden, Ager, Hornbrook. Zuleka and Coles.
The State Line. Two miles beyond Coles station we cross the State
line, and, entering Oregon, begin the ascent of the Siskiyou Mountain.s. This
ascent is a wonder of railway engineering. The statistical facts concerning this
achievement raay be condensed as follows:
Elevation at State Line     2,859 feet
" Coles Springs    3,775
" Tunnel No. 13    .  3,108
" Tunnel No. 15    3 710
" Tunnel No. 16...   2,977
Length of Tunnel No. 13     4,160
The mathematician has the advantage here. He can tell exactly the f^cts concern
ing this great work; but the descriptive writer strives in vain to convey to the
reader the beauty and grandeur of the scene. The southern slope of the range
is. denuded of trees, while the northern side is covered with a dense growth of
pine. Siskiyou Station. This is the summit of the range, and the highest
point on the entire line, being 4,135 feet above the level of the sea. The mountain
view from this coign of vantage is indescribably raagnificent To the east is the
Cascade Range, extending to the nortli for full four hundred railes; to the northeast
is Mount Pitt, while still farther on are Mounts Scott, Threlson and Diaraond
Peak, — monarchs of the Cascades. To the west are the peaks of the Siskiyou and
Coast Ranges; to the south are the Two Sisters, Mount Lassen, and above all
imperial Shasta rears his head. Lakes, rivers and valleys lie spread out before us
like a map; and, in a word, for variety, grandeur, beauty and extent, this view has
no equal on the continent.
Ashland. At the foot of the Siskiyou Range, on the eastern slope, is
situated this beautiful little town, in a delightful valley. The town was established
in 1850; and in 1887, on December 17, Mr. Charles Crocker, of San Francisco,
drove the last spike which completed the railroad connection between California
and Oregon. The town of Ashland has entered upon a season of great prosperity,
being the seat of the State Normal School, and having the White Sulphur .Springs
within near proximity. It is a large shipping point for wheat, and also for fruit.
(Population, 2,000. Distance frora San Francisco, 431 miles. Elevation, 1,891
feet.) Rolling along through the valley we pass Phoenix and Medford, prosperous
towns of raoderate size.
Jacksonville is the county-seat of Jackson County, and is connected with
Medford, four miles distant, by stage. (Population, 1,200. Distance from San
Francisco, 450 miles. Elevation, 1,399 feet.)
Rogue River Valley. We are now in the Rogue River Valley, and are
following the stream in its downward course. The valley averages about three
miles in width, with high hills on each side, covered with a strong growth of
grass and in places heavily timbered. The products of this valley are berries, nuts
and fruit. Fishing and hunting can be found here of the best quality. The
stations which follow Medford, are: Gold Hill, Grant's Pass, Merlin, Aeta.
Almaden, Glendale, Riddles, Myrtle Creek, Oak Grove. DilUrd and Greens.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 349

SCENIC
ATTRACTIONS.
A Panorama of
the
Grand and Beautiful
In Nature.

For a stretch of over one hundred and fifty
miles from Grant's Pass, the country presents a
wonderful panorama of grand and beautiful scenery.
Mountains are all around us. To the right the
Cascade Range, to the left the Coast Range.
Gorges before us! — carious behind us! Little
valleys of entrancing loveliness are crossed; spark
ling streams abound, forests of oaks and pines, of
hemlocks and madrones are threaded; in a word,
the variety is infinite, the beauty indescribable.
Roseburg is the county-seat of Douglas County. Through the town flow
the Umpqua River and Deer Creek, which furnish water-power and a plentiful
supply of pure waler for doraestic purposes. Agriculture, horticulture and
pastoral industries are tributary. (Population, 1,500. Distance frora San Francisco,
574 miles. Elevation, 487 feet.)
The "Valley of the Umpqua. This valley, situated between the
Coast Range of mountains and the Calapooias, is exceedingly fertile, being
especially adapted to agriculture and the growing of fruit. The valley ranks third
in size among those of Oregon, those of the Willamette and Umatilla being greater
in area. A historical interest attaches itself to the Urapqua Valley, for in its quiet
confines lie the remains of the brave soldier and public-spirited citizen. General
Joseph Lane. His grave is in a little churchyard, a raile from Roseburg. After
leaving Roseburg, the stations occur in the following order: Wilbur, Oakland,
Rice Hill. Youcalla, Drains and Comstocks.
Divide is on the water-shed between the waters of the Umpqua and
Williamette Rivers. Latham, Cottage Grove, Walkers, Creswell, Goshen and
Springfield are the succeeding stations.
Eugene is the county-seat of Lane County, situated on the right bank of
the Willamette River, and is a thriving, prosperous town. Here has been
established the University of Oregon, which is one of the leading educational
institutions of the State. The Willamette is navigable from Portland to this point
for stearaers of light draught; but freight traffic is now carried raainly by the rail
road. This is a fine agricultural and fruit country, and shipments of these
products from Eugene are large. (Population, 4,200. Distance from San
Francisco, 649 miles. Elevation, 455 feet.)
Beyond Eugene are Irving, Junction City, Harrisburg, Muddy, Halsey.
Shedds, Tangent and Albany Junction.
Albany, the county-seat of Linn County, is an enterprising, growing town.
For a country which eastern people consider so " new," this town has great
"antiquity," having been estabhshed in 1848. Here is located the Albany
College and other schools of excellent quality. The town has good business and
private buildings, water works, — in fact all of the modern improvements. (Popu
lation, 5,000. Distance from San Francisco, 692 railes. Elevation, 240 feet.)
Millers, Jefferson, Marion and Turner are the stations passed after leaving
Albany bef 're Salem is reached.
Salem is the State capital and the county-seat of Marion County. It is
situated on the left bank of the Willamette River, which furnishes unliraited water-
power. Here are located the State institutions, including the Insane Asylum, the
.School for the Deaf and Dumb and Blind, the Penitentiary and the Indian Train
ing School, Steamers ply regularly between Portland and Salem, and the amount
of lumber shipped annually exceeds three million feet. The Capitol Building

250 OVES THE RANGE
occupies an entire block, and may be seen from the car windows, to our left, after
leaving the depot. It need not be said that Salem is a well-built, prosperous city,
for the fact that it is the State capital makes such a statement superfluous.
(Population, 6,000. Distance from San Francisco, 720 miles. Elevation, .igo
feet.) After we have left Salem we pass the State Fair grounds, two railes from the
city, and four miles farther on Chemawa is reached, which is the iraraediate site of
the Indian Training School. Beyond are the stations of Brooks, Woodburn,
Hubbard, Aurora, Barlow, Canby, New Era and Canema.
Oregon City is the county-seat of Clackamas County, and is noted for its
magnificent water-power, being located at the great falls of the Willamette River.
llere were constructed the canal and lock system which niake the Willamette
navigable beyond the falls. This system cost half a million dollars. Oregon City
is a thriving town boasting all the modern improvements, and doing a large busi
ness. (Population, 3.200. Distance from San Francisco, 575 railes. Elevation,
95 feet.) Beyond Oregon City we pass through the following stations: Clackamas,
Milwaukee, Wellsburg, Machine Shops and East Portland. These are really
suburbs of Portland, as the distance between Oregon City and Portland is only 15
railes. This metropolitan city, with its population of
eighty-two thousand souls, sits on the west bank of
the Willamette River, twelve miles from its conflu
ence with the Columbia, and one hundred and flfteen
miles, by river, from the Pacific Ocean. The first
settlers came here in 1843, and in 185 1 the settle
ment was incorporated as a city. It is now the
metropolis of the Pacific Northwest, and the third
richest city in the world, in proportion of the wealth
to per capita of population. On the east side of
the Willamette, directly opposite Portland, is the city of East Portland, and on the
same side, to the northward, around the bend of the river, the city of Albina,
both of which contain a population of about ten thousand souls, and are con.
nected with Portland by two bridges. Numerous ferry boats also ply on the river
between Portland and her trans-Willamette suburbs. Thus, there are clustered
here under three corporate names, a community of sixty thousand people, whose
business intermingles, and who are actively engaged in its diversified industries.
The favorable position which Portland occupies for an important commercial
city, can be best understood by gaining a knowledge of its location, relative to a
large area of very rich country. The Willamette Valley, at the foot of which
Portland is situated, contains four raillion acres of land, and its products are
abundant to furnish sustenance for over a million people. Most of this territory
is now under cultivation. Wheat has been the chief crop raised, but other cereals,
root crops and fruits are now occupying the attention of the farmers, and on
the slopes of the raountains that border the valley, stock-raising . and dairying
are found to be profitable industries. The finest flavored fruits in the world are
raised here — apples, pears, prunes, peaches, plums, small fruits, melons, etc. In
fact, all the products of the temperate zone can be successfully grown in the
Willamette Valley The surplus product of this fertile valley, of course, flows
through Portland, to which port it is transported by boats which ply on the
Willamette, and railroads which penetrate the country on each side of the river.

PORTLAND.
The Metropolis of the
Pacific Northwest.
A City of Mag^nificent
AchieTements aud
High Hopes.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

251

The Columbia River, before piercing the Cascade Mountains, flows through and
drains a tract of country more than four times as large as the State of New York,
and with a soil of wonderful productiveness. The improveme^it of that vast region
is scarcely begun, yet the product has already grown beyond the facilities for
raoving it, though they are great, and beyond all expectations. But the trans
portation facilities are increas
ing rapidly, and that trouble
will not last. Anything that
can be grown on fertile soil
in a raild climate is produced
in this basin in abundance, and
from Idaho, Washington Ter
ritory and Oregon, a constant
stream flows to Portland.
The mines of Oregon, in
cluding those of gold, silver,
iron, copper, etc., and the vast
mineral output of Montana,
Idaho and Washington con
tribute an important araount to
the business of this coramercial
raetropolis. The tiraber pro
duct is by no raeans inconsider
able, large quantities of luraber
being annually turned out.
The most extensive salmon
fishing in the world, and the
general piscatorial indusry of
the Columbia and Willamette
Rivers, have their main springs
of capital in Portland. Situated
as she is, at the gateway to the
regions mentioned, the re
sources of which are practically
illimitable and easily trans
ported on the rivers that drain
them, being accessible to ocean
craft, and having a demand for
trade from across the sea, being
at a point of interchange of
foreign and domestic trafiic,
having a situation favorable for
utilizing these various agencies
for promoting growth, Port
land certainly possesses advantages of location equaled by few cities in the
world. There are five lines of railroad centering in Portland. The Northern Pacific
runs north to Tacoma, thence east to St. Paul. It also connects, at Wallula
Junction, with the O. R. & N., making a shorter route frora Portland to the East.
The Oregon Railway & Navigation Corapany has a line passing up the Columbia
River to Wallula Junction, and branching out into various feeders, built and i"

CAPE HORN, COLUMBIA RIVER.

LOWER CAPE HORN. COLUMBIA RIVER.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 253
process of construction, ramifying the south-central portion of the great Inland
Empire. The connection of the O. R. & N. with the Union Pacific gives a direct
trans continental line between Portland and Omaha. The Southern Pacific Com
pany has leased the Oregon & California Railway, which has been completed, and
this, besides affording a rail route between Portland and San Francisco, gives a
through line, under one management, from Portland, via New Orleans, to New
York. This road runs southward through the Willamette Valley. Another line
of the Oregon & California starts from Portland, and, running up the west side of
the river, forms a valuable feeder, penetrating the heart of the garden of Oregon.
This line connects, at Corvallis, with the Oregon Pacific, extending westward to
Yaquina Bay, and will soon reach a rich but as yet undeveloped region in Eastern
Oregon. Then the Yamhill Division of the Southern Pacific Company affords
another outlet for the valley through Portland. Thus, this city is made a terminus
for three trans-continental railway systems and has all the advantages of five local
roads, besides the water transportation on the Willamette and Columbia Rivers
and the Pacific Ocean. The Canadian Pacific is also competing for Portland busi
ness, running a steamer between here and Vancouver, B. C , to connect with its
China line of stearaers, and bidding eagerly for freight and passenger business be
tween Portland and the Eastern States. The Northern Pacific Terminal Company
has erected shops in Albina, at a cost of over $500,000, with a capacity for the
employment of a thousand men. The company owns nearly eight thousand feet
of water front. Besides the shops, there are large grain warehouses, coal bunkers,
and a dry dock, owned by the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company.
On the Portland side of the river, about thirty acres of land have been pur
chased for a site for union passenger and freight buildings, and for a freight yard.
The completion of the bridge over the Willamette, which the Oregon Railway &
Navigation Company has constructed, enables the improvements contemplated for
the Portland yard and buildings to be carried out. This bridge is a steel structure,
consisting of a draw span of three hundred and forty feet and a fixed span of
three hundred and twenty feet. It is a through bridge, with carriage way and
foot-walks above the railroad tracks, and connects Third Street, Portland, and
HoUaday Avenue, East Portland.
Modern Improvements. The streets of Portland are lighted by in
candescent and arc electric lights. The city owns its water works system. In
order to purchase the water-works plant from the private corporation which owned
it, the city issued five per cent, bonds to the amount of $500,000, which were
readily sold at an average price of $1.08, showing the confidence in the city's
financial condition. The city has thirty-two miles of water mains, and the
pumping capacity of the works is fifteen million gallons per day. The supply is
obtained from the Willamette River, about five miles up the stream. The average
daily consumption is five million gallons.
The Portland Paid Fire Department is an efficient organization, operating
under the City Board of Fire Commissioners. A fireman's rautual relief asso
ciation is in operation in connection with the Fire Department.

254

OVER THE SANGE

Manufacturing. The manufacturing advantages of Portland and vicinity
are not utilized to an extent at all commensurate with their importance. There is
abundant raw material in Oregon, cheap and reliable water power, and generally
favorable conditions for the growth of varied manufacturing enter
prises. The comparatively recent discovery of the resources of the
region must account for the small araount of manufacturing that is
done where circumstances are so favorable. People from the East,
accustomed to the closer and fuller developraent of their resources,
and alive to the advantages of manufacturing as near the source of
supply as possible, are surprised at the neglected opportunities
which they observe on the Pacific Slope, and particularly in and
1 about the commercial centre of a region incalculably rich in the
elements that promote manufacturing prosperity.
Still, that branch of industry is well established, and
is constantly increasing in volume and importance.
^ (Population, 82,000. Distance from San Francisco,
I 'icturesque Surroundings. Aside
IKU the advantages of its relative location,
iland has a very admirable site for a beauti-
i ty. From the docks at the river's side, ths
I md gradually ascends to the west and south-
est, finally breaking in elevated and pic
turesque hills, upon which the residence
1 jrtion of the city is already- encroaching.
These hills form an iraportant feature
in the topography of the city. The
lower and more level part of the
town is occunied by business
tories. The
from almost
I t. They are
by means
ays winding
le hillsides,
flording mag-
ificent views

__ ftllfe'r

FORESTS ON THE COLUMBIA.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

255

as the prospect unfolds. From the summit ot Robinson's Hill, on a cleai
day, the sight is most grand and inspiring. Within a radius of hundred a
miles, which the eye sweeps from this elevated outlook, north, east and southeast,
five perpetually snow-clad mountain peaks are visible. The raost prominent of
Ihese is Mount Hood, which rests upon the long, bluish bank of the Cascade
Mountains, and rears its lofty surarait to the sky. Its covering of snow and

ROOSTER ROCK, COLUMBIA RIVER.
glaciers sparkles in the sunlight, and when suffused with the soft glow of the
setting sun, reflects the most delicate tints of purple, crimson and gold, giving it a
majestic splendor inspiring to the beholder. To the south is Mount Jefferson, and
to the north Mounts Adaras, St. Helens and Rainier, the latter the loftiest peak of
the Cascade Mountain Range, all of them capped with snow and ice, and relieving
a landscape of charnjing beauty. Breaking through the ridge of the Cascades, the
great " River of the West," the Columbia, pours its raighty tide toward the sea.
The Willamette threads the broad valey to the south like a ribbon, its course being
visible for many miles and finally being lost among the farms and villages that dot its
banks. Tacoma's commanding position among the
cities of Washington Territory has been earned
step by step by a struggle in which the odds weie
against her. The general apprehension, justified
probably by the history of many cities and towns,
that in the West all one need to do is to stake off a
few lots, build a cabin or two, select a name, and a
city will grow up much after the fashion of vege
tables in a garden, is in nowise true oi Tacoma.
When Tacoma was established, other towns on Puget Sound had existed for many

TACOMA.
A City whose
Fame has become
International*
«*The Cityof Destiny.

N;{j(|g<l^pBB»^' '^ ^ "^^"^

D1P-NE7 WISHING AT THE DALLES OF THE COLUMBIA By permission of the We?t Shore Magazine,

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 257
years, and naturally they did not extend any encouragement to a new town. Instead
of receiving from the beginning, as in the case of many cities of the West, the
exclusive support and encouragement of an extensive business district, Tacoma
found the older towns already in possession, and ready to contest every step tsken
by the new claimant for public favor and support. Figuratively speaking, Tacoi oa's
first breath of life was a battle-cry, and although the cry was not at first very li ,ud,
it was firm, full of confidence and pluck. The town did not remain long ii its
swaddling clothes. Its voice gained in strength. At first Puget Sound only hear I it.
Then it reached the ears of everybody in Washington Territory, and they were
pleased with it. The Pacific Northwest then realized that there was a new voice in
the business world and stopped to listen, and soon the entire Pacific Coast was
talking about it. Then the great and populous East heard Tacoma's voice, and
when it said "Come," thousands responded. Then England came thousands of
miles by sea, in great ships, to learn more about Tacoma, a city whose farae had
crossed the Atlantic. China and Japan sent tea-ships at this infant's demand, and
even far-off Australia heard it, and was so pleased that the ocean pathway bet\/een
Tacoma and that continent is marked byan ever-increasing fleet of ships going and
coming. Tacoraa helps to feed the world; helps to build the world's houses; and
yet its voice is stronger than ever and is being used raore than ever. The
thousands of people who listened and responded to Tacoraa's invitation were not
disappointed. And Tacoraa grew and flourished until its present commanding
position was reached.
From a town of only a few hundred people, Tacoma now has a population
estimated at 36,000. Its property has increased to twenty times its value twelve
years ago. Its business relations extend to all parts of the civilized world, a fact
which is true of no other city in Washington Territory. In railroads, shipping,
manufactories, and business generally, Tacoma's prosperity has been very great;
so great, indeed, that whereas it a few years ago was only a small and relatively
unimportant village, it is now a city, possessing all the characteristics and con
veniences of a city.
Tacoraa was originally planned on a large scale, and the expectations of ths
founders of the city, however sanguine they may have been, have doubtless been
raore than realized at this time. Probably no one expected Tacoraa to grow so
rapidly, to earn so speedily such extraordinary trade relations with the markets of
the world. The streets are wide and laid off with special relation t:> convenience
and beauty. Pacific and Tacoraa Avenues are without superiors for beauty and
length in the Northwest. These and other public highways are well graded, and
sidewalks are constructed of a substantial character.
The location of the Methodist University in Tacoma has given the city a
notable addition to its already large number of educational institutions. The Tacoma
people subscribed a bonus of $75,000 to this great institution. The Annie Wright
Seminary, the Washington College, and the nuraerous public schools, speak raore
than words can tell of the public spirit raanifested by Tacoma people, of their ability
to meet every demand of a liberal and progressive population and of the existence
of a breadth of public sentiment which proves the stable character of the city's pro.
gress. Of the many church buildings, some possess architectural beauties equal to
those to be seen anywhere. Private residences of handsome architecture may be
seen in all parts of the city. The hotels nuraber twenty, and yet they are not
sufficient to accommodate the multitude of people who daily arrive in this flourish
ing city.

PACIFIC AVENUE, TACOMA. 1877.

PACIFIC AVENUE, TACOMA. 1888.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 259
The Northern Pacific Railroad Company bas erected a magnificent brick
building for the offices of the company.
These features of Tacoma are worthy of special attention as evidencing the
solid character of the city's progress. They rebut every idea that Tacoma's
growth and the expansion of her industries are ' ' raushroomy " in character. The
city itself is the best commentary on the character of its resources. (Population,
36.000. Distance from San Francisco, 917 miles.)
The Climate of Puget Sound. The following extract from a recent
compilation so accurately sets forth the characteristics of this climate, that to
eraploy other words would add nothing to the facts contained in it:
The climate of the Puget Sound country is wholly unlike anything experienced
on the Atlantic Slope, or in the Mississippi Valley; or, indeed, anywhere on the
American continent except in the Pacific Northwest. The summers are cool and
the winters singularly mild. A teraperature of 80° in midsummer is very rare, and
not often in winter does the mercury go much below the freezing point. The
following is the meteorological table for 1885, which is about an average year,
compiled from observations taken daily at 7 a. m., 2 p. m. and 9 p. m. A minute's
study of it will show how remarkably free from trying extremes the climate is.
METEOROLOGICAL TABLE FOR I885. Monthly
Lowest. Highest. Mean. Rainfall
in inches.
January  30° 62° 37.9° 4.20
February  31 59 44-5 4-16
March  32 68 48.0 i.oi
April  -  35 75 50.8 0.47
May  43 80 60.5 2.89
June  47 76 57-0 0.49
July  51 86 66.4 0.26
August  52 84 64.5 
September  46 74 58.8 2.44
October.  39 ^4 514 2.47
Noveraber  34 60 45.5 8.22
December  28 60 41.4 6.14
Total rainfall in 1885  32-74
As suggested, if the above extract is carefully studied it will tell more than
many words of explanation.
Trade with South America and Mexico. The condition upon
which trade relations will be established with South American and Mexican Pacific
Coast points are of such a promising character that it will not.be long until a most
valuable commerce will be carried on. The peculiar conditions which justify the
hope of establishing very extensive relations with that country are found in the
products of the countries. The purposes of this article will not admit of a rainute
examination of these conditions, but any one who will examine the subject will
find that the products of Washington Territory supply what the South American
countries referred to do not have, and those countries produce that which will find
a ready market in the Northwest. Hard woods, tropical fruits, valuable ores and
minerals on the one hand, with soft woods, iron, grain, fish and many other of the
resources of the Northwest— these, any one can easily see, furnish all the con
ditions upon which most extensive coramercial relations may be established. The

CICERO PLACE. ON GREEN LAKE, NEAR SEATTLE. W. T.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 261
relations will be those of exchange of products. Such conditions are especially
promising, as they will afford cargoes both going and coming.
Tacoma's coraraercial relations with the Pacific Coast are now so well known
that it is almost unnecessary to make reference to thera at all, except to raake this
array of evidence complete. Reference to the record of Tacoma's shipping, as set
forth already in this article, will show how extensive are Tacoma's relations with
San Francisco and other coast points.
The thoughtful man will reason that if Tacoraa enjoys such extraordinary
advantages now, what will the future bring ? He will then understand the peculiar
significance of the poetical phrase, " The City of Destiny.''
A Magnificent Harbor. The general measure of Tacoma's apprecia
tion of this most remarkable body of water would be expressed in miles rather than
particular instances. To say that there are saw mills at particular points, coal
bunkers at others, wheat warehouses near by, magnificent docks elsewhere, various
harbor improvements and railroads, would certainly be very suggestive of what
Tacoraa has accoraplished in a few years. But to say that these iraproveraents
extend along the water front for a distance of about six railes, gives a larger idea
of their extent.
These features of Tacoma's enterprise and prosperity have a special meaning.
They are not constructed simply as a matter of ornament. Business men do not do
things that way. Business methods are not fancy in tb^ character. These
improvements indicate that demands exist and are being supplied. And Tacoma is
doing the supplying.
Terminal and Shipping Facilities. The fact that the Northern
Pacific Railroad has made Tacoraa its terminal point, is of itself enough to satisfy
anyone, without further explanation, that the terminal and shipping facilities would
be commensurate with the importance of a great trans-continental railroad com.
pany's interests.
The imraense docks at which railroad and ocean traffic unite, are so large and
involve so raany distinct features, that it would be difficult to irapart to anyone not
familiar with such improvements an adequate idea of their extent and importance.
It is not an uncoramon sight to see lying along these immense docks, only
a few feet away from the railroad tracks, an ocean sailing-vessel, several ocean
steamships, Alaska steamers, besides a host of smaller craft. This will suggest tha
character and extent of these docks. The Northern Pacific Company has iramense
warehouses erected on these docks, and all the conveniences incident to the prompt,
careful and expeditious handling of freights. It is often a difficult raatter for local
craft to secure dock accoraraodations, so crowded with steamers and sailing-vessels
do the docks become.
The conveniences are such that the handling of immense cargoes is accom
plished with an ease and dispatch scarcely conceivable. The ships laden with tea
are drawn up within a few feet of the great warehouses, alongside of which are the
railroad switches. The San Francisco steamers also discharge their freight into
these warehouses. Extensive additions have been made to these docks to accom
modate the ever-increasing demand for room, and more extensions are in
contemplation. Trade with the Middle West. The trade with the Middle West and
in the Far East is made up of tea and lumber and shingles. In lumber and shingles
most promising trade relations have been established with the sections referred
to, and the trade in these products is constantly increasing in volume. The
excellence and durability of the cedar shingles manufactured in Tacoma and

MEGDENHOUR BAY AND EDGEWATER POINT, NEAR SEATTLE, W. T.

TO THE GOLDEN GATE. 263
vicinity make them superior to any manufactured elsewhere, and large quantities
are now being shipped East. The qualities of Puget Sound lumber has made
it faraous all over the world. Tacoma being the terminal point of that great trans
continental artery of commerce the Northern Pacific Railroad, naturally enjoys the
results of such special advantages. It does not require elaborate reasoning to
convince any man that the same conditions which gave rise to such trade will
increase its volurae rapidly the longer the relations exist.
Tea Trade with the Orient. It was only a few months after the
completion of the Northern Pacific Railroad Company's Cascade branch that the
first tea ship arrived in Tacoraa frora Yokaharaa. This shows how quickly Oriental
and American merchants realized the advantages attending the shipping of tea to
Tacoraa. The great gain in tirae and reduction in expense were the considerations
which have brought to Tacoma such an important branch of San Francisco trade.
Is there need to expand on the significance of these relations ? Is there need to
repeat the fact that trade brings trade ? Tea and lumber will not always be the
only articles of commerce between the Orient and Tacoma. This is only the
beginning, and it does not require much imagination to picture in the near future
a constant stream of vessels, both steam and sail, between Tacoma and the vari
ous commercial cities along the western Pacific Coast. Tacoma has first secured
these trade relations. Such relations are very tenacious.
Seattle is the county-seat of King County, and
is known far and near as the " Queen City of Puget
Sound." It has a present population of 40,000 against
3,500 in 1880. The city contains national and pri
vate banks ; daily and weekly journals ; mortgage,
loan and trust companies ; twenty churches ; public
school buildings, two of which cost $30,000 and
$42,000 each ; a territorial university ; two private
colleges and a girl's acaderay ; besides numerous
private schools, three hospitals and an orphan's
home The wholesale and retail stores are too many to enumerate, some of the
former doing a business annually of $500,000 to $r, 000,000 each. The city is
admirably supplied with pure water, both by numerous private companies on a
small scale and by the raammoth works of the Spring Hill Water Company,
located at Lake Washington. This company has completed a great reservoir on
Central Hill, 315 feet above tide level. Connected with it in the city are hydrants,
frora which five extinguishing strearas are thrown far above the highest buildings
in the business part of the city. This city has a splendid systera of gas-works,
also two electric light companies. Both arc and incandescent lights illuminate
the streets. Two lines of street railway are in operation and steadily extending
outward, and several other lines are projected. It contains more than forty
benevolent societies and fraternal lodges; also four well-drilled and equipped
militia companies. During the past few years there have been added to its
municipal improvements twenty-five miles of graded streets and sixty miles of
sidewalk. Some of the recent steps in the progress of Seattle as a metropolis are
here given : On October i, 1887, the free postal delivery system went into effect in
the city. A few weeks later Seattle was made the terminus and centre of distribu
tion for all the mails for the entire Puget Sound country ; in consequence it haf

SEATTLE.
A Town of Marvelous
Gro wth.
" The Queen City
of
Paget Sound."

264 OVES THE SANGE
become the central headquarters and home port for destination and departure of
the steamboat system of the Sound. Within its maritime jurisdiction are now
plying more than eighty steamers. On December i, 1887, the United States
District Land Office was removed to Seattle, making this city the principal seat of
the public land business in Western Washington.
The city of Seattle contains ten saw mills, whose plants cost $4,000,000, which
employ over seven hundred men; and also has tributary to it, within a radius of
thirty five miles, the mammoth lumbering establishments of Port Blakely, Port
Madison, Port Discovery, Port Gamble, Port Ludlow, Utsalady and Seabeck, said
to be the largest saw mills in the world, some of them having a capacity of 350,000
feet per diera, and eraploying scores of seagoing ships. There are three or four
brick yards and tile factories, four breweries, numerous bakeries, candy factories, a
cracker factory, several sash, door and blind factories, shingle factory, soap works,
furniture factory, soda works, bottling establishments, carpet weavers, match
factory, harness and saddlery, blank books and bindery, book printing, several
boiler works, foundries, iron and brass works, etc. ; numerous boot and shoe shops
and tailoring establishments, factories of shirts and underwear, cigars, millinery
goods, chair stock, barrels, plaster decorations, etc.; four marble and stone cutting
works, patent medicines, dressmakers, hair work, carriage makers, wagon shops,
fish packers, coffee and spice mill, cabinetmakers, boat builders; and nuraerous
dentists, jewelers, watchmakers, florists, nurserymen, fancy poultry breeders and
stockmen, furriers, gun and locksmiths, hatters, meat packers, photographers,
picture framers and painters, metallic roof works, scroll saw works, shipyards, tin
shops, taxidermists, chemists, undertakers,' etc.
The export trade of Seattle and Puget Sound is very large and is rapidly
increasing. An idea of it can be forraed frora a single fact. During the fiscal year
ending June 30, 1887, the United States Custom House at Port Townsend noted
the departure from the Sound of 641 cargoes of coal and lumber, besides several of
wheat, which, at $10,000 each (a low estimate), would be worth $6,500,000. A
large bulk of this export wealth went to foreign ports all over the world, to be paid
for in coin. As Seattle is the chief metropolis of the entire Puget Sound region,
it is not far out of the way to credit the most of this business as her commerce,
since it is largely contributory to her growth. During the fiscal year ending June
30, 1885, the number of vessels entered in the Puget Sound district was 1,065,
with a tonnage of 478,000, and the clearances were 1,065, with a tonnage of
452,234. Of the entrances, 271 cargoes, 151,301 tons were in cargo, and 794
cargoes, 326,839 tons were in ballast. Of the departures, those proportions
were just reversed, showing the balance. of trade. The total value of her foreign
and coastwise exports for 1885 was $7,000,000. Besides the ordinary shipments
of coal, luraber, hops, oats, wheat, potatoes, furs, lime, canned and barreled
salmon, the daily routine export trade to the neighboring British ports of Victoria
and British Columbia forms an enormous item.
Advantages of Seattle. The special advantages of Seattle are too
numerous to mention in full. A few may be specified, as: First — A splendid
harbor, scarcely equaled in the world for the varied purposes and convenience of
coraraerce. Second — Its central position relative to the coramerce of the world, as
the great seaport on the Pacific Ocean of North America, and directly facing

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

265

the teeming population of Asia and the great and rich islands df the South
Seas. It is already the chief port of supply for the growing trade of Alaska — ¦
a great region, more extensive than the thirteen original States of the Union,
with an ocean coast line of thousands of railes, that is beginning now to loora
up as a great coming source of supply of the precious metals, as well as of
furs, fish, whale oil, yellow cedar and ice. Third — It has an excellent and most

productive soil for fruits, flowers, and garden produce, of wch a nature as not to
be very dusty in sumraer nor muddy in winter. Fourth— Its exceptional health
fulness The death rate in Seattle is only 7 in 1000, per annum, which is less than
one-third that of the northern cities of the Union. Fifth-Its mild, even and delicious
climate, free from all dangers frora the clouds above, from vapors or miasma
around, or the fires beneath. Sixth— Its surroundings on all sides, except the
magnificent harbor front, by grand lakes and deep, navigable rivers, which have
caused it to be ofiicially designated as the location of a great naval station and
construction yard. Seventh-The one-third mile canal now completed between

OVES THE SANGE
Lakes Union and Washington, in the suburbs of the city, furnishes a great water-
power of incalculable value for manufacturing and motive power.
Seattle has two lines of local railroad corapleted and in operation, the Colum
bia & Puget Sound, with two branches, one twenty miles long, running to New
castle, the other forty miles long, running to the Black Diamond and Franklin
collieries; and the Puget Sound Shore Line, extending through a link of the
Northern Pacific Railroad, and placing the city in connection with the Northern
Pacific, the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company, the Union Pacific, the
Oregon & California, the Southern Pacific, and the general railroad system of the
United States.
The Canadian Pacific has been pushed through the Canadian Dorainion by
British capital, to, a Pacific terminus, something over a hundred miles north of
Seattle, and the Seattle & West Coast Railroad, which furnishes the connecting
link, and raakes Seattle the American terminus of this great system, is now under
contract for the entire distance, and is being rapidly pushed to completion this
year. This line, as regards the carrying trade, is as much an element in the trans
portation problem of the Northwest as any of the American roads. The Seattle,
Bellingham Bay & British Columbia Railroad Company, a local company of Seattle
capitalists, has obtained from Congress a charter for a through line, and are
actively pushing the preliminary work for a second line to connect Seattle by rail,
direct with the Canadian system, at the international boundary line on the 49th
parallel. Beauty of the City. The city presents a beautiful and striking
appearance from whatever side it is approached. It rises from the water front
to the crest of a hill in a gradual slope. The site is most beautiful. The
city extends about four miles along the water front. The whole water front is
lined with mills, manufacturing establishments of various kinds, commission and
storage, and warehouses.
Steamers are constantly arriving and departing; regular lines run to Tacom?
and Olympia, to Port Townsend and Victoria, to Whatcom and other points on
Bellingham Bay, and to the Skagit River; there are regular steamers'to Alaska,
San Francisco, San Diego, and other points in California. Ships from China,
Japan, Australia, crowd its docks. In addition to the great and varied industries
on the water front, there are business blocks, higher up, that would do credit to any
Eastern city. The residence portion of Seattle is unsurpassed for beauty. There
are hundreds of homes costing from $3,000 to $50,000, surrounded by charraing
grounds, and so located and constructed as to coraraand magnificent views of the
Sound, the Olympic and Cascade Ranges of mountains, always covered with snow,
and the mighty peaks of Mounts Rainier and Baker. To the north of the city and
close up to it lies the beautiful Lake Union, a body of fresh water covering a
section or two of land, and of immense depth. The heights about this lake are
being covered with pleasant homes, and in the near future it will be a most delight
ful resort. To the east of the city, four miles frora the bay, but now hardly a raile
frora the city limits, lies Lake Washington, twenty-five miles in length by from
two to four in width. It is clear, fresh, sparkling water, so deep that it can not or
has not yet been sounded. The lake is hemmed in by hills covered with giant
forest trees. The water supply of Seattle is drawn frorri this lake. It is connected
with Lake Union by a small stream, which is being enlarged into a ship canal, so
that within a year or two the largest steamers and ships will go directly from the
salt water of the Sound into the clear, fresh water of Lake Washington. It will
raake one of the finest ship-building points and dry-dock stations in the world, and

TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

267

will certainly be utilized for such purposes, either by the National Government or
private enterprise. There is certainly not within the National domain such an
eligible location for a great navy yard. Special attention is being paid to the
establishraent of manufacturing industries in Seattle, and almost every week
some new enterprise is materialized. Henry Villard, in his visit to the city in
1878, designated it " The Queen City." Situated as it is, in the heart of Western
Washington, with railways running out in many directions, with a harbor equal
to any in the world, the city well deserves the title. The city is the nucleus of

MT. RAINIER, VI/. T.

territorial commerce; all the prosperity of the country is reflected in the general
progress of the city. The history of the city is the history of the whole Northwest.
It is the supply depot and shipping port for a quarter of a million people; it is the
wholesale and retail market for a vast territory. Its commerce within the last two
years has assuraed enormous proportions. It is the coal and luraber shipping
depot for the whole Pacific Coast. It is the heart of navigation of Puget Sound.
Nearly two hundred stearaers radiate frora the wharves to different local points.
(Population, 40,000. Distance frora San Francisco, 940 railes.)

268

OVER THE RANGE

COMPLETE INDEX TO STATIONS ON THE DENVER & RIO
GRANDE RAILROAD, RIO GRANDE WESTERN RAILWAY,
RIO GRANDE SOUTHERN RAILROAD, AND FLORENCE
& CRIPPLE CREEK RAILROAD.

STATIONS

State or
ITerritory

1 g.o
Ph

ao
1 OJ

468 17
169148 160
250 359
320800743 183
365
340 708189
333
f6l 189
402 190
408 353
238 195
344698
458 143
330 121
398 733740
283 173
3117 186
444
373 58
507 146
399
402324243 3
354 94
335
333448 379140 161
394
477 633 33
374309343
336
365518
350 199
269
490331670
214

:STATIONS

'.State or
Territory

I

§
i >

Is

Utah . . . .

493 i
5530 7012

Coal Mine ....
Coal Creek . . .
Coke Ovens...
Colorado Oity
Colorado Sp'gs
Colorow 
Colona 

Utah....

653
Acequia 
Adelaide 
Colo 
Colo 
Colo . .
1800
53605953
61105992535264096394
155
Colo 
808
Colo 
Colo 
Colo 
3000
15000
78
Alabaster 
Colo 
Colo 
N. M ....
iaoo"
57787546570971448043
75
364
Alcalde 
Colo.
365
Colo 
Conohita June
Corkscrew ....
Coxo . .
Colo 
Alta
Utah
97536385
4608
10112 9016
4896 9193
8878
4526 939681686831
5942
10015 70756926
331
Alta Vista 
Colo ,
971070098183
4567 95956554
8947 78885946
6158601394627874
7723 7619
6232 6949
4497
Cotopaxi 
Cottonwood . . .
Crane Park 
Colo 
Utah
80
193
Amargo 
N. M . . . .
Colo. .
150
479
Americus 
Colo.
381
Utah . . .
1800
Colo 
Utah.
3000
Crescent 
Cresco 
Crested Butte .
Crevasse 
Cripple Creek .
Croo, ton 
Crystal Creek .
Crystal Lake . .
Cuchara June .
Cumbres.'. 
Currecanti 
Dallas 
Dallas Divide .
Davenport 
Deep Creek 
Deer Run 
Delta
521
N.M...
334
Anth. Coal Mine
Colo 
Colo 
Colo 
1300
318
Colo 
400
Colo 
5000
193
267 329
268 169
329
822376391
Anaconda 
Colo 
Colo.
Colo 
N. M 
11000
Colo 
200
Baldy ....: 
Colo 
Colo . . .
Barranca 
N.M 
Utah 
25
Battle Creek 
Colo.
8179
241
Bear Creek 
Colo 
Colo.
410
Colo 
4999
Bellevlew 
Colo 
Colo 
Colo 
Colo 
400 900
150000
4980 7880
5198
374381
Bessemer 
Colo 
4803 9023
4366
4375 90636382
6709
Del Norte 
Denver 
Derby 
Desert 
Big Horn 
N. M ....
Bingham June.
Utah ....
Utah ....
Colo 
500900
Bingham 
Bird's Eye 
Utah
4504'88596957615480626333
480143148779
4712 6530
922765986085488064179858
6541
544
Dillon ...
Colo 
Colo 
300 500
313310349392776372382 117
450
294335 181
113 66
375868
864306351388313886370
457
Dolores 
Dotsero .,- 
Doyle
Boaz 
Colo, .
Colo 
Colo 
Colo
Bocea 
Colo, . . ,
Douglas 
Dominguez . . .
Bonita 
Colo 
Borst 
Colo 
6811
Utah
Brayton 
Colo 
Dulce 
N M
Bridge 3 
Colo 
5048
4756
Duncan 
Dundee 
Durango 
Eagle jPark....
Eagle ....
Colo
Bridgeport 
Colo 
Colo.
8000
Brown's Canon.
Colo 
7332 7967
5241879453687334887164246181
4950 53436173
7785635762196037
735467557968
7863
5641
Buena Vista 
Colo 
Colo 
ItiOO
Colo 
Colo
350
Burnham. 
EcEo 
Eden 
Buxton 
Buttes 
Colo 
N M....
S5
Edgerton 
Eiler 
Caliente 
Calumet 
Colo 
Eldredge 
Elko 
Colo
Carbon 
Colo 
Colo
Carbondale 
Carlile 
Colo 
Colo 
300
Ei M oro 
Embudo 
Emma 
Colo 
N.M....
Colo 
250 25
100
5879582166106493
4845 5590
4938
Canon City 
Carracas 
Colo 
Colo 
5000
Engleviiie 
Escalante 
Espanola 
Excelsior 
Fairy Glen ....
Fairview 
Fail Creek 
Farnham 
Farmington...
Florence 
Fort Lewis ....
Fort Logan....
Fort Crawford
Florida 
Fountain 
Frankiyn 
Fremont Pass.
Frisco 
Cascade 
Colo 
Castle Gate 
Utah ....
N. M....
Oolo ....
35
Castle Rock 
Colo. 
Colo 
300
Castle Creek....
Cebolla 
Colo 
348
407 599
Cedar Creek ....
Colo 
Colo
Cerro Summit..
Colo 
Utah
S534
4336 5199
Chama 
N. M ....
N. M ....
300
750153
528 10
361
Chamita 
Colo 
Colo
1200
Cherrydale 
Colo 
Chester 
Chicosa June...
Colo 
Colo 
Colo 
'"'ii'
9412
6616
'4417 69066 '28
7014
Colo 
Colo 
800
5438
6182671755684291
11328 9086
Chipeta 
4'6
Cisco 
Utah ....
Colo 
Utah....
150
Cimarron 
Colo 
Utah ....
Colo 
200 50
Clear Creek 
Colo.. .
390
Cleora 
Colo 
310
TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

269

INDEX TO STATIONS.— Continued.

STATIONS

Fruita  ,
Garland 
Garfield  ,
Glenwood Spgs,
Germania 
Glade 
Glenco 
Goodnight 
Goveton 
Grand Junction
Graneros 
Granite 
Grassy 
Gray's 
Greenland 
Green River ...
Gulf Junction .
Gunnison 
Gypsum 
Hagen 
Hale 
Halfway 
Hayes 
Hayden 
Haskell's Spur
Hecla Junction
Pleibler'sSpur.Hermosa 
Hesperus 
Hiilden 
High Bridge...,
Hillside Spur..,
Hierre  ,
Home Ranch ..,
Hooper  ,
Hotchkiss 
Hot Springs ...
Howard 
Huerfano 
Husted 
Ignacio 
iRuni 
Jack's Cabin 
Jordan Narrows
Juanita 
Kahnah  ,
Kaysville 
Keeldar 
Keene 
Kelker  ,
Keystone Spur .
Kezar  ,
Kokomo 
Kyune  ,
La Boca  ,
T.akeClTy 
Lake Hughes ...
La Jara 
Lake Shore 
Larimer. 
Larkspur 
Layton 
Lava 
La Veta 
Leadville 
Leadville June.
Lehi 
Lehigh June 
Leon 
Leopard Creek .
Lime Kiln gnur.
Little Grand....
Littleton 
Lizard Head...
Lobato 
Los Pinos 
Lost Canon ....
Lower Crossing.
Malta 
v'anitou 
Mancos 
Marshall "ass, .

0

d0

= ^

state

'C >

. a
Territory
^
«
W
Colo 
100
4528
436
Colo 
300
7936
326
Colo ....
100
9510
235
Colo 
3000
5758
367
Utah ...
4396
728
Colo ....
6518
38
Colo 
489 124188
Colo 
4728 7639
Colo 
Colo 
4000
4594
435
58048945
146
!!69
Colo 
150
Utah ....
4874
581
Colo ....
967369'.iO
28b 47
Colo 
35
Utah ...
150
4069
544
Colo 
4581
119
Colo 
1500
7680
290
Colo .
B325
842
883 646
333
Colo 
Utah ....
Colo 
247265
Colo . . . .
9158
400336
Colo 
7371
428
461 623
245386388
Colo . .
6645
Colo
Colo 
Will
Colo 
396456 764
6559
4391
Utah ....
Colo
640990246714
865
366205
Colo.. ..
Colo 
300
Colo 
5677
157
Colo 
30
6596
62
Colo 
20
6437
424
Colo
¦8309
416306734885
409 764
Colo ....
Utah . . .
Colo .
6841
46864263
Colo 
Utah ....
50
99709401
279233
.. ...
5849
80
420
Colo 
Colo 
7434
802
Colo ....
800
10614
296
Utah ...
7052
682
6177
8686
418 352
Colo 
1500
7470
7609
385
265
Colo 
aoo
Utah ....
748
Colo . . .
160
Colo 
25
6669
Utah ....
757
N. M ....
8468
289
Colo 
600
7024
191
Colo 
15000
10200
^''l
Colo 
9762
280
Utah....
3000
4544
688
Colo.
5691
21
286 394
Utah
Colo ....
412 537 10
4604 5372
1200
Colo . . .
10250
430
8303
9637
389821481
Colo 
Utah ....
25
4630
570
Colo 
50
9580
272
Colo ....
1800
6318
80
Colo 
3(ro
7008
500
Colo, 
10856
243
Marsh 
Maysville 
Meadows 
Mear's Juue ..
Menoken 
MeneEee 
Mesa 
Minturn 
Midway 
Military June .
Military Pari*
Mill Fork....
Milwood 
Mitchell 
Montolores . .
Moltat 
Monarch 
Monero 
Montrose . ..
Monte Vista.
Monument...
Mosca 
Mounds 
Mule Shoe ...
Nalhrop 
Navajo 
Needfeton 
New Castie . .
No Agua 
Oak Creek . . .
Ogden 
Ojo 
Ophir 
Otto 
Osier 
Ouray 
Ouray Junction
Overland Park.
Palmer Lake ..
Palmilla 
Pando 
Pandora 
Parachute 
Paradox 
Parkdale 
Parlin 
Parma 
Petersburg 
Pictou 
Piedmont 
Pike View 
Pine Creek 
Pine Kidge 
Pinon 
Placer 
Placerville 
Plateau 
Pleasant VaiJc
Pocono 
Pole Canon 
Poncha June ..
Porter 
Poncha Pass.. .
Price 
Provo 
Pueblo 
Quarry 
KedClur 
Red Narrows. .
Reno 
Rifle 
Riverside 
Rico 
Ridgway 
Roan 
Robinson 
Rockdale 
Rockwood 
Roswell 
Roubldeau —
Round Hill ... .
Rouse 
State or
Territory
Colo...Colo...Colo.. .
Colo...Colo.. .
Colo...Colo...Colo...Colo...Colo.. .
Colo.. .
Utah .
Colo...Colo...Colo...
Colo...Colo... .N. M.
Colo...Colo...Colo. .
Colo...
Colo... Colo...
Colo... N. M,.
C'cilo...N. M .
Colo... Utah .
Colo ..
Colo...
Colo...Colo... Colo...
Colo...Colo...Colo... N. M..
Colo...Colo...Colo...Colo...
Colo... Colo...Colo...
Colo...Colo...Colo...
Colo... Colo...Colo...
Colo... Colo...Colo...Colo.. .
Utah..Colo... Utah . .
Colo...Colo...Colo...Utah . .
Utah . .
Colo ..
Colo...Colo...Utah..Colo...Colo...Colo...Colo...Colo... Colo. .
Colo...Colo... Colo...
Colo... Colo. .
Colo...Colo...
30
300 135
30001200 850800
60
1 060
32000' ¦ 'sod
2500
"isb
50
35
100
100
207535
200
5000
35000
300
200 140
3000 500
'600
1000
6347
832048128431
78287853
5339 5310
5808
9932
5500
10028 7262581176656974
8754769565888141
656088055358
42868189 82129637772158305276723882589227
5400
5787
7962 76165322624871086188
5038 8410
7177
10316 4890 7480
90595.647
45174669 6228 8616554852365500
8872 87377002
4542
10861
73676095
8687-6488
171
328 130
327 359503124
308289 89
658
493287448264
237 362
357
253 56
288884202284376
481 379306 156
771199
483226 317389354 6
52
290293425410519 171
278261 8
180
882 71
354 582106
218404 29
686
239 674
281 536231811689 120 79
299 663 167
398249444878433894 190
468 73
379836 188
270

OVER THE RANGE

INDEX TO STATIONS.— Continued.

STATIONS

State or
Territory

§1
^1

g>

STATIONS

State or
Territory

t

fl0

li
5'^

Colo

6149 3804

iol302
217 140735
395 128725
425 187
422316259 625 25
323453338246
330 357 181
495 176
642507397
414 679551 176
616683317805591 135
209283 186
423 679 511515

Tioga 

Colo 

6303
180
Rock Creek
Colo
Tollgate 
Toltec 
Toltec Gorge . .
Colo 
166
Sagers 
Utah
N. M....
9465
%^8088
6575 81045994
309
Colo 
3000
70505469
4238
'>.^
31
Salt Lake City. .
Sam's Spur 
San Carlos
Utah ....
Colo
50000
Tres Piedras..
Trimble Spr'gs
Trinchera 
Trinidad 
Trout Lakes. . .
Tuna . ....
N. M....
Colo ....
75
313
4 59
Colo
4900
Colo 
Colo 
Colo
"8o6o'
99(1
Utah ....
Colo
500
210
427
Colo
6473
Colo.
6131 9024
46364758 622265308116
4768 9734797284876189
¦8603 689478645201
174
Sau Miguel 
Sapinero 
Colo
Twin Lakes. . . .
Unaweep 
Utah Line 
Vallejo 
Vailie . . . .
Colo 
'>61
Colo 
Colo 
Utah ....
Colo 
N. M....
Colo ....
100 50
1500 200
72558477
"5885 7727
4608 6901
418
467
Schofield
Colo
409
Sedalia
Colo
199
Serviletta 
VanceJunction
Colo 
Colo 
25
415 107
Verde 
Veta Pass 
Victor 
Colo 
134
('06
Shirley 
Shoshone 
Colo
866961196895922468507465
4883 8188
Colo 
Colo 
N. M....
2000 425
1H6
Colo 
Villa Grove 
Volcano 
Wagon W Gap.
Wahatoya 
Walsenbnrg. . .
Wasatch 
247"97
Silverton 
Soda Springs . . .
Soldier Summit.
Solitude 
Colo 
Colo
2500
Colo 
Colo
25
311 183
Utah ....
Utah ....
Colo 
Utah'....
1000 25
176734•117
So Fork RGS
Colo
Wellsville 
West Cliff 
West Denver . .
Westwater 
Wheeler 
Whitehouse ...
Whitewater. ..
Winkfleld'sS..Widefield 
Wigwam 
Wilbur 
WiUow Creek..
Wolhurst 
Wolcott 
Wood's Cross'g
Woody Creek..
210
Spanish Fork...
Sphinx . . .
Utah ....
Utah . .
2500
4731
Colo 
Oolo 
Utah ....
800
194
Splkebuck 
Spring Creek . . .
Springville 
4 73
Utah ....
9781
4486 4665
Utah ....
Colo 
2500
4565800692765270
4868
Utah . .
499
Oolo 
Colo 
75
413
N. M....
Utah....Colo 
Colo .
¦¦¦'so'
443
Sunnyside 
573052818614 7742
84
Colo.
99
Colo. ...
177
Tennessee Pass
Colo 
Colo 
Colo 
Utah ....
Colo 
36 50
10433 621787565043
N. M....
¦118
14
Telluride 
Thistle 
Colo 
Utah ....
Colo 
100 25
6976
4255 7270
325 740
The Hook 
399
Thompson 
siis
MOUNTAIN PEAKS AND PASSES OF COLORADO.
With their elevations above sea level.
Height,
14,147..
ALTITUDE OF MOUNTAIN PEAKS OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
EAMPART RANGE.
Name. Gov/ni/y.
Pike's Peak  El Paso. .
Nearest Point
Manitou,
FRONT RANGE.
From Lula Pass to Canon City in the transverse valley ol! the Arkansas. This range divides
Grand County from Boulder 'County, passes through Gilpin County, Clear Creek County and
Park County, and ends in Fremont County,
Seiglit. Name. County, Nearest Point,
14,271  Long's Peak  Boulder  Boulder.
13,173  Audubon  Boulder  Sunset.
13,520  Arapahoe  Boulder  Sunset.
18,283  James Peak  Gilpin  Central City.
13,138  Perry'sPeak.
18,873  Mount Flora  Gilpin
14,836  Torrey'sPeak  Clear Creek.
14,411  Gray's Peak  Clear Creek
14,381  Evans Peak  Clear Creek
14,340  Mt. Rosalie  Clear Creek.
12,446  Bison Peak  Park 
Gilpin  Central City.
Central City
Georgetown. Georgetown. Georgetown.
Georgetown.
Falrplay.
TO THE GOLDEN GATE 271

MEDICINE BOW RANGE.
Is due northern continuation of the North Range.
^.f'^Si'X- Narne, Oouni/y, Nearest Point.
13.832  Haynes Peak  Larimer  
13,167  Clark'sPeak  Larimer  .'.'.'..'.'.. 
BLUE RIVER RANGE.
Sometimes caUed Eagle River Mountains, runs fparaiiel with the Park Range through
Summit County. It ends In the western part of Park county.
S,*i.?.'5,'' ..?'"'f;. „ Oounty, Nearest Point.
18,398  Mount Powell  Summit  Dillon.
18,382  Red Peak  Summit  Dillon.
13,890 .... Miles Peak  Summit  Dillon.
13,300  Vi^halePeak  Park  Breckenridge,
13,565  MountGuyot  Summit  Breckenridge.
13.800  Mount Hamilton  summit  Breckenridge.
13,835  Silver Heel  r  Park  Como.
PAEK RANGE.
Begins in the northern boundary of the state, marking the boundary lines of Routt County
and Larimer County, and ends in the transverse range ot fhe ArkaIi^as Mountains, passing
through Eagle County, Suminit County, Lake County, Park County and Chalfee County,
Height, Name, County. Nearest Point.
12,126  Mount Zirkel  ,  Larimer  
14,269  Quandary  Sum mit  Breckenridge.
14,297  Lincoln  Park  Alma.
13,796  Arkansas  Paik  Alma.
13,961  Buckskin  Park  Alma.
14,185  Bross  Park  Alma.
13,650  Evans (No.2)  Park  Alma.
14,008  Sherman  Park  Alma.
13,750  Sheridan (No.2)  Park  Falrplay.
13,909  Horseshoe  Park  Falrplay.
13,738  Ptarmigan  Park  Falrplay.
13,328 .... Buffalo Peak  Park  Falrplay.
14,132  Goat's Peak  Park  Falrplay.
SAGUACHE RANGE.
Begins In Eagle County and runs parallel with the Park Range, the Arkansas River flowing
between them in the southern region. It traverses Lake and Chaffee Counties and ends In the
Cochetopa Hills, the central part of the Continental Divide.
Height, Name, County. Nearest Point
14,176  Mount of the Holy Cross  Eagle  Red Cliff.
13,073  Homestake  Eagle  Red Cliff,
14,434  Mount Massive  Lake  Leadville.
14,436  Elbert  Lake  Leadville.
14,302  La Plata Peak  Chaffee  Buenavista.
14,375  Harvard  Chaffee  BueuaVista.
14,187  Yale  ChafTee  Buenavista.
14,199  Princton  Chaffee  Salida.
14. 345  Antero  Chaffee  Salida.
14,339  Shavano  Chaffee  Maysville,
14,055  Ouray  .'  Chaffee  Marshall Pass.
ELK MOUNTAINS, OR ASPEN GROUP.
This range is a great semicircle of mountains in Pitkin County, with Aspen iu the centre and
with spurs running into the adjoining county of Gunnison.
Height, Name, County, Nearest Point.
13,823  Sopris Peak  Pitk in  Carbondale.
13,997  Capitol Peak  Pitkin  Asiwn.
13,978  Snow Mass  Pitkin  Aspen.
14,008  Maroon Peak  Pitkin  Aspen.
13,885  PyramidPeak  Pitkin  Aspen.
14,115  Castle Peak  •  Pitkin  Aspen.
13,327  White Back  Gunnison  Crested Butte.
13,113  Teocalli Peak  Gunnison  Crested Butte.
13,956  Grizzly  Pitkin  Aspen.
13,350  Italian Peak  Gunnison  Crested Butte.
13,357  White Rock  Pitkin  Aspen.
WEST ELK MOUNTAINS.
Height. Name, Oounty, Nearest Poinl,
13,102  West Elk Peak  Gunnison  Gunnison.
SANGRE DE CRISTO RANGE.
It unites at its northern point with the Arkansas Hills, which run east and west, and with
the Cochetopa Hills, which run from the southeast to the northwest, and which form a part of
the Continental Divide. 
N. B.^ There are many unnamed peaks above 13,000 feet in this range.
Height, Name, County. Nearest Potnl.
12,446  Hunt's Peak  Fremont  Poncha.
12.863  RitoAlto  Custer  Villa Grove.
13,600  Silesia  Custer  Hot Springs.
13,729  Gibson Peak  Custer  Hot Springs.
13,447  Horn Peak  Custer  Moffat.
14.233.... Crestone  Ouster  Moffat.
1 4 ,04 1  Humboldt  Custer  Silver Cliff.
14.483  Sierra Bianca  Costilla  Garland.
14,176  Old Baldy  Costilla  Blanco.
13,615  Grayback  CostiUa  Blanco.

272 OVER THE RANGE.
CULEHA RANGE.
Is a continuation ot the Sangre de Cristo Range.
Height. Name, County, Nearest Point,
14,079  CulehaPeak  Las Animas  Trinidad.
13,611  Trinchera  Las Animas  Trinidad.
13,718  Spanish Peak  Las Animas  Trinidad.
THE SAN JUAN MOUNTAINS.
This range Is the southern part of the Continental Divide. It has many lateral ranges, like
buttresses, and its general course is from southeast to northwest, where it .ioins with the
Uncompahgre Range and the Cochetopa Hills. It is veryr little known, and contains many high
unnamed mountains. It is spread ove'r Saguache County, Hinsdale County (southern part),
Archuleta County, Rio Grande County and Conejos County.
Height. Name, County. Nearest Point,
14,032  Stewart's Peak  Saguache  T  Lake City.
14,100  San Luis Peak  ,>*aguache  Lake City.
13,131  Mesa Peak  Saguache  Lake City.
13,840  Bristol Head  Hinsdale  
14,093  Red Cloud  Hinsdale  Lake Oity.
14,149  HandiesPeak  Hinsdale  Lake City.
18,400  Pole Creek Peak  Hinsdale  Lake City.
12,506  San Juan Peak  Hinsdale  
18,154  Macomb's Peak  Mineral  Wagon Wheel Gap.
18,673  Bellevue Peak  Rio Grande  DelNorte.
18,081  DelNortePeak  Rio Grande  DelNorte.
13,347  Conejos  RioGrande  Pagosa Springs.
12,824  Banded Peak  Archuleta  Pagosa Springs.
14,065  Simpson's Peak  Rio Grande  Del Norte.
NEEDLE MOUNTAINS.
A series of short ranges on the west side of the Grand Divide, buttressing the San Juan
Mountains. It contains many high Isolated peaks named and unnamed.
Height. Name, County. Nearest Point.
12,305  Sheridan Peak (No. 1)  La Plata  Durango.
14,054  .aiolus  La Plata  Durango.
14.051  Needle Peak  La Plata  Durango.
13,755  Mount Oso  La Plata  Durango.
13,928  Pigeon's Peak  La Plata  Durango.
14,055  RioGrande Pyramid  San Juan  Needieton
13,542  Mount Kendall  ^anJuan  Silverton.
13,356  Mount Canby  SanJuan  Silverton.
13,550  King Solomon  SanJuan  Silverton.
13,501  Sultan  SanJuan  Silverton.
13,357  The Hunchback  San Juan  Durango.
OURAY MOUNTAINS.
A prolongation of the San Miguel Mountains to the north, uniting with the Uncompahgre
Chain, which runs from west to east.
HeigM. Name. Oount/y, Nearest Point.
14,340  Mount Sneflels  Ouray  Ouray.
SAN MIGUEL MOUNTAINS.
Height. Name. County, Nearest Point,
14,075  Unnamed  San Miguel  Telluride.
14,160  Lizard Head  San Miguel...  Trout Lake
14,309  Mount Wilson  Dolores  Ophir
18.502  Dolores Peak  Dolores  Ophir
12,703  Mount Dolores  Dolores  Elco.
13,890  Unnamed  Dolores  Eico
12,703  Mount Freeman  Dolores  Rico
12,516  Mount Elliott  Dolores  Rico.
12,542  Anchor  Dolores  Eico
18,635  Lone Cone  San Miguel  Telluride.
LA PLATA MOUNTAINS.
Are a prolongation south of the San Miguel Eange.
Height. Name. Oounty. Nearest Point.
13,376  Hesperus  Montezuma  Dolores
13,456  Babcock.  La Plata  Durango.
UNOOMPAHGEE MOUNTAINS.
This range is short and runs from west to east. It contains some very high mountains
usually at right angles to the chain.
HetsM. Name. ,?,'"'2*¥- Nearest Point,
14,419  Uncompahgre  Hinsdale  Ourav
14,069  The Wetterhorn  Hinsdale  Ouray

TO THE GOLDEN GATE

273

MOUNTAIN PASSES.

... „ ^e«'.
AlplnePasB  13,550
Argentine Pass  13,100
Cochetopa Pass  10 032
Hayden Pass  10.780
Trout Creek Pass  9,346
Berthoud Pass  11,349
MarshaU Pass  10,856
Veta Pass  9,39^

Feet.
Poncha Pass  8.94i
Tennessee Pass  10,433
TarryallPass  12,176
Breckenridge Pass  9,490
Cottonwood Pass  18,500
Fremont Pass  11 .540
Mosquito Pass  13,700
UtePass  11,200

ELEVATION OF LAKES.

Feel.
Twin Lakes  9,357
Grand Lake  8,158
Green Lakes  10,000
Chicago Lakes  11,500
Evergreen Lakes  10,500

Feet.
Seven Lakes  11,806
Palmer Lake  7,338
Cottonwood Lake  7,700
TroutLake   9,800

ALTITUDES OF TOWNS AND CITIES.
EVISED SINCE FIRST EDITION FROM ENGINEER'S MEASUREMENTS.

Peet,
Alamosa  7,546
Animas City  6,554
Animas Forks  11,300
Antonito  7,888
Aspen  7,875
Buena Vista  7,970
Canon City  5,344
Castie Eock  6,230
Colorado Springs  5,992
Crested Butte  8,875
Creede  9,016
Conejos  7,880
Cottonwood Springs  8,950
Cuchara  5,943
Cumbres  10,015
Delta  4,983
DelNorte  7,880
Denver  5,196
Durango  6,520
ElMoro  6,879
Garland  7,936
Granite  8,945
Grand Junction  4,594
Gunnison  7,680
Glenwood Springs  5,758
Howardsville  9,700
Irwin  10,500
Kokomo  10,614
Lake City  8,686

Peel.
La Veta  7,024
Leadville  10,200
Los Pinos  9,687
Montrose  5 811
Malta  9,680
Mancos  7,008
Manitou  6,318
Ojo caliente  7,324
Ouray  7,721
Ogden, Utah  4,286
Pagosa Springs  7,108
Pinos, Chama Suminit  9,902
Poncha Springs  7,480
Palmer Lake  7,238
Pueblo  4.669
Red Cliff  8.615
Ridgway  7,002
Robinson  10,861
Rosita  8,500
Ruby Camp  10,600
Saguache  7.723
Salt Lake City  4,228
Silver Cliff  7,816
Silverton  9,324
Salida  7,050
Telluride  8,756
Trimble Springs  6,575
Westclifle  7,864
Wagon Wheel Gap  8,449

PRONUNCIATION OF PROPER NAMES.

Acequia  A-sa-kia
Crested Butte  Crested Bute
Costillia  Costea
Canon  Can-yon
Cumbres  <'um-breez
Cuchara  Cu-cha-ra
Canejos  Co-na-bos
Chihuahua  Che-wa-wa
Huerfano  Wa-far-no
La Junta  La Hun-ta
La Jara  La Hara
La Veta  La Va-ta
M anltou  M an-i-too
Monero  Mo-na-ro
Navajo  Na-va-ho

Ojo Caliente  0-ho Cal-i-en-te
OJO  Oho
Pueble de Taos  Pueblo-de-Tows
Pinon  Pin-yon
Saguache  Si-watch
Sierra Mojeda  Sierra Mo-ya-da
Santa Fe  San-ta Fay
SanJuan  SanWan
San Miguel  San-me-gil
Sapinero  Sapi-na-ro
Tierra Amarilla  Tier Ama-rea
Trinchera  Trin-chara
Vallejo  Vali-a-ho
Wahatoya  Wa-ha-toy-ya

«J74

OVER THE RANGE

COMPLETE INDEX TO STATIONS ON THE SOUTHERN
PACIFIC RAILROAD.

STATIONS

Acampo 
Acton 
Aden 
Adonde 
Afton 
Ager 
ATuews 
Alameda —
Aiamltos 
Albany 
Alcalde 
Alder Creek
Alexis 
Alhambra..
Aiila 
Allendale. . .
Alma 
Almaden....Almond 
Alpine 
Alta 
Altamont...
Alvarado ...
Alviso 
Amaranth .
Am. Rvr Bridg.
Amity 
Anaheim.
Anderson.
Anita 
Annadei .
Antelope .
Antioch...Applegate
Aptos 
Arahy 
Arbuckle.
Arcade 
Arena 
Argenta. . .
Armona...Army Point 
Ashland....Athena 
Athlone 
Atwater 
Auburn 
Aurora. . . .
Aurant 
Avon 
Aztec 
Baden 
Bakersfield
Bale 
Balfour 
Banning....
Banta 
Bardins 
Bar laws ...
Barrett 
Barro 
Batavia 
Battle Mount'n.
.Bay Point 
Beal ville 
Beaumont 
Beaverton 
Bello 
Belmont 
Benicia 
Ben Lomond...
Bennett 
Benson 
Beowawe 
Berenda 
Bernal 
Berryman 
Bethany 
Biggs 
Big Trees 
Bishops 
Bituma 
Blacks 
Bl'k Butte Smt.

Terr'ty

Gal..Cal....N.M. Ariz. .
N.M. .
Cal....Cal.... Cal...,Cal....Or....Cal....Cal....
Cat....Cal....Cal.... Cal....
Cal....
Cal.... Cat....
Cal.... Ual....Oal....
Cal....Cal....Cal.... Cal....
Or 
Cal....
Cal.... Cal....
Cal....
Cal....Cat....Cal.... Cal....Ariz..
Cal.... Cal....
Cal.... Nev...
Cat....Cal....
Or.. ..
Cal.... Oal. ..
Cal.... Oal....
Or 
Cal....
Cal.... Ariz...
Cal....Cal....
Cal....Utah. .
Cal.... Cal. ..
Cal 
Or.... Cal...
Cal 
Cal....Nev. . .
Cal....
Cal....Cal....
Or 
Cal....Oal....Cal.... Cal....
Cal....
Ariz... Nev...
Oal....Oal....Cal....Cal....
Cal....Cal.... Nev. . .
Cal... Cal....
Oal....

120150

100 60
7750

3000
"¦"so

700 35

170
1500 60

5040
600110

225
2000 750

100
700

100
'300

2000

50
20
1700 200

200 150

30
532

300250

202
3200

2000 62
85
5606 103
1000 250

100

H

59
26704391 212
4307
2349 2520
191
2 to
850

380

560
348 82
28223607 740 15

133
433 160

£•3

163 46
2014 102 144
1 55
144
4547 233 II
1898

210 153
1860

12
495 39
415287
42392317 3048

39
245 67
4511 10
1793 2560

204 31 10

3578
4695 356 186 10
40 98
270
5423 12 52

107.21
427.1
1237.9 760.9
1250 387 4111.1358
692301.34 109
558.3
490273.51 71.2358
63
505.3
417.3 159 55.9T
24 38
105.17 93
890508.9
249 195 67.91
104 54.54
136112
736.6114.47 98
140.09486
357.43 34.86
431 164.57161.64144.28126745
485 39.15
806 3
12
314.04 68.53
801569 74.88
115
747 16
66.35 65.15
474 42.24
341.6562.8

62.32
2533.3577
134
1025.4 507177.59 4
11.8676.74
163 74
602503.7 96.74
345

STATIONS

Blue Canon 
Blue Creek 
Boca 
Uolsa 
Bonneville....
Boyce 's 
Borden 
Bosque 
Boulder Cree k
Bovine 
Bowie 
Bracks 
Bradley 
lirandon 
Brentwood 
Brighton 
Brigham 
Brooks 
Brookside 
Browns 
Bryant 
Buckeye 
liuckhorn 
Burbank 
Burnetts 
Burson 
Butier 
Byron 
Caltazon 
Oachise 
Cactus 
Cadanassa 
Caliente 
Calistoga 
Campbell 
Oambray 
Cameron 
Gamilos 
Cana 
Canby 
Canemat 
Cannon 
Cantara 
Capay 
0. H. Mills 
Carbondale 
Carlin 
Carlton 
Carmenita 
Carnadero 
Carpinteria 
Casa Grande...
Cascade 
Cashmere 
Castaic 
Castle 
Castle Crag 
Castroville 
Cemetery 
Cedar 
Centerville 
Central Point..
Ceres 
Cerrltos 
Charleston 
Chemawa 
Chestnut 
Chittendens —
Chico 
Cholone 
Chromite 
Ohualar 
Cicero 
Cienega 
Cisco 
Gitronfa 
Clackamas 
Clarks 
Clawson 
Clements 
Cluro 
Clyde 
Ooallnga 
Copper Gap....

State or
Terr'ty

Cal....Utah..
Oal...Cal....Utah..
Oal.... Oal....
Ariz...
Cal.... Utah..Ariz..
Cal....Cal.... Cal....
Cal....Cal....Utah.. Or 
Oal....
Cal....Cal....
Cal....Cal 
Cal....
Cal 
Oal....Cal 
Cal 

Ariz...
Cal.. .
Cal....
Oal....Cal.... Oal...
N. M..
Cal....
Cal....Cat.... Or 
Or 
Cal..,. Cal....
Cal....
Cal....Cal.... Nev...
Or 
Cal.... Cal....
Cal. ..
Ariz ..
Cal. ..
Cal....
Cal. ..
Oal....
Oal....Cal.... Cal....Nev...
Cal....
Or 
Cal 
Cal... .
Cal 
Or.. ..
Cal 
Cal 
Oal 
Cal....Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Or 
Nev 
Or....:Oal 
Nev....Oai 
Cal 
Cal 

400

388

100

300 500
1800 35

H

4695
42735531 177
4260

as

SatSai

168
792
218

250

100100

50
850

150
200 100

76
394 125

300
400 38

600

300 50
200

6000

75

100 25

150

273
1080 470
4277 3759

639

80 54
4239

3939

593558 189

84
1779
4223 395

1390 368 95
4324 3787 733172

93

3676 231
4897

74
168 8
1396
6538

1004 37
1943 17
92
5974

193
232
1561 103 90
119
5934

52632250

4785 153665
I759I

108.39
187.81
859.5 81
699
1089 117.29196
130 62.70
134.03
816728
646.6335 139
301
468.5471.4 123.70126.36
212.95 67.83
574.9
1054.5 712.8 97.47
336.3 72.7961
1324.5 3.0.9
463.1 198
749
756 56.35
330 93.37
149
133.22535875501.1 83
517.3913.7 190108.71
454.3 97.59
317 110 11
620 32
450118.65
498.5 98.20
724
332 91
186152
309 129131.45
490 182 64.34
762
264426 115.30
516 119.20
296.34 133

1003- Sa?. to.

•^OOtO o
i-«c>t..-5-:iOJ
COOUO^pOlOl

OQcn< OOS- CTtOCOM
oo; oocno
oo- OOOto

. I-**© . CO I
. cotOMiU • CTi-**.
cn; -^y>ooocn>-*; i-ooscsdo:'
co^i^inotocota. oiH-cnto

03010 Ot-"©

CTt-'i-'Cn oocno:OOOO'

CO ¦->)-* coco lUttk
to ccMeDi-«»^fficjitooi^; _.. ,, .
ja.QPODh-<c;tcoooooacnooto. to. coto.

es>^o3'ocno;
ooo

03 cotoofi-* • 00" cn
0-30iOOOiO: mo: O
ocnoooocn. cto. oen.

M- to* ^a oj • t-^to '
CO! 09-^: CO).JO»S; •QCnOJQO'
^. o-Q. t-icncco. ojoacnrf^i

Population

tOCOlOt^
M- tF>— aeocnto
-• WCOOCOi

Elevatlou

cn lococn

uii-iMi-icnco i^-q

iOOih.>03tD •-•oooo

-•ojtP.MCn"-'-*

_.  -  Z~   — ¦ ¦_ ¦ ¦ — ¦— ¦  < W-.  .—• CO •—'•-' -^ OJOl^OiLCfc WKlCO»-*CnMtD>— .  IV.  r  IW- %».  .  -V-UUIV VpJJ l_|i <U Ul P-> kU CQ (-.(xiun *il-«CJ3Ui|-.tJI^-"Vt "^^l**!— i»a^
OQO*»OiQD-».»-;3JO;f«OtOJi-OlCnCntO-3 OOIOOWOCOOO!>-'i(i.tDi(i5a!tOtOOJ*.0:OOOtCMtOCOCOC»eOW<jaOCDtOii:kMtD03COCOi&tDOJi&tOMtOMiP.-^OlO*>.-a'-'H-eD«— •Q*».t-«OOJCn
9° r^ ^^ *¦ °"-*^ ?^ P ?3 "TO-^i W W hP» Ol -fl t3lO« JO -5 O rf* *¦ K. -1 f3 HI *. k[i MqjOD M o^
r.¦,_.•,^r.^-_-. «,^.. -^ qq Jg ^Jjj J^g ^^^ CnCOJi* Cn M W KiisOO rf^CntOMO Cfl ^ to ODOl QO ^tO^»-'OI ""
'" ' " " '" " toco — — —

Miles from
S. Francisco

Or 
Cal 
Oal
Ariz....

Cal
Nev....
Or 
Cal
rial

iglggg

is.

s

0-t

J?|gSg

59ggSg : : :: ."^

ip

::::; ff: g: :;::::::::::::::;;:: :^: :: T: T.^: sf

gg

State
or
Terr'ty

. o- o

00 CO
ssss

iiiii . . o

O; CT03-fl
O- OOOi
• >(>.» 03
: ocnoicoOOcncn
ocno
COo
M* :
MO- •
oo; : cn
oo. . O
CO tow
oooooo
-^; owo
cn. ocno
cno
oot
ig
o o
*-•»: Mh-- K-OS
oo; -54koo: ocn
oo- cncnoo. oo
tot :
Sgii
too
Population
i-> ; : oi^
S-^w: Mrfi.: to;
OS*.tC. -4K>. to.
: ; : ; os
... M- rfi.
ct; : ; «3o;; oj
M. . . -a-fl. to
; ce ; '. ca'. 4^ ; ;
M- tOkJ; M • M- COOOtO- •
co; H-to; cDi-', )->io; totoo: ;
M. ou*q. oil-', tots- WOCT- .
: co! t )-•: lot : i^k
• CO- I-". (-i-aco- t-l ^' ¦ t^i-»
: o. to; -5cooo; -^cooi; ¦ rfi.ooio
. (-1. CO. l->-fl-5. OtOO. - tOOPrf^
COCO
JOIO; 03 ¦ • ; OS uMrfk' oSMMt-i
osto; oot; : ; cml^otcn-a" osoi-3-3i-i
oeo- OOM- . . CTO3W»—00Of. OJ'li.OiCnW
Moments
tscniocoocn^oi
cn>o
Elevation
^^?-'CO-qtDI iooio coco
00-3 
-'W'^Jl.»Jt.**W'»*.'W ' — 'W-i^\,.«— *\_<—^wv—* l,*<l.w ».».«.. ^*..WU^J.^J^ IJJ IJJ ^- IJJ w<^_llj^>jlljl |jyi_; lli ,;^,lj|;XIUI^ — ^- >iH «l (-.• -..I «J Cil tJD CD -3 CD Oi CO "-J "O I— • CO iO CJt >? l^ Oi ClB CO — J
D CO cn H- cn « -3 o: ffi Oi o H- Mto o JO Oio: cnosp to -Q ^ cn to I— OiOpo p p: p: cn cn o-Q ¦&. o Ol rfi. -flOc coc;< H* Wco w ^
ocp CO 03 to Oib t* col-to^co co~jI-« oob* b> co to^ woicowoi 4^ tcioQc^ io Jn ^
Miles from
S. Francisco
•2:.
oM
H
O (/!H>
Orn ozHs
OVER THE SANGE

INDEX TO STATIONS— Continued.

STATIONS

State or
Terr'ty

i
1

1

0
i|Sai.

STATIONS

State or
Terr'ty

a
I

§
1

si
u
It.

Henline 

Ca 

211 923
360 12

263.44 196.2
196.8 12
59.21

Los Medanos...
LosNletos 
Loveloclts 
LwrSodaSprgs

Oal....Cal 

38
156
39772085
4496

52

Ca 

600.4 341
320
Herndoii 
Hiffhland 
Hiriifirt 
Ca 
100
Nev....
Cal 
Utah...
500 100
Cal.
Or 
¦¦"soo
688
HiUsboro 
1080.4
mi ladale.. ......
5978 82
284
''&' 93
446.3235 534395
298 740
374280.74347908611.7 139.80
442
655 699 3.3.75
493.4971.8
791 108
663
254.25349.9741
277 121.98
296.97
226.7 163174.35 95.13
789 156.77
763
1259.7 406.5 141
439.3 538.6
635 83.82
2444
239 701 56
496507.4
301.67 754.3
261.84267.29 119
1149.6 153 47.88
137.49111.31 104 29
145.30149115506.8 18.43
1138.9 657 ¦
483.2403 3
484 J85.6 «6.61
Lynnly 
Cal 
265.45
Cal 
144 89
154.24
Lynnwood 
Machine Shops.
Cal 
492.1
Holllster
Cal 
Cal....
2800
Or. . . . .
769
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal....
Cal..
¦¦¦700 200
94
378
¦¦¦342 11
119.46
Honby 
Oal.... Oal 
Cal 
1300
¦¦¦i'1'6 2154
4072
"¦4236 367
3730
¦¦¦"26 387
4375
Madera 
Madison 
Madrone 
MallDoclc 
Haitland 
Malaga 
Malton 
Mammotll T'nk
Manlove 
185.03
Hooker 
87.67
69
Hornbrook 
Hot Springs...
Hubbard ..
Cal 
Nev.... Or 
Nev....
Oai..... Cat
100 42
•250 33
150
34.13
488.1
211-32
Cal....
Humboldt
Cal..
11?
170 01
Cal 
683.1 98
Igerna... 
Oal 
Independence..
Indio 
Or 
Cal 
800
Cal 
1173
¦¦"¦14 4597 10
66
94
28
69.94
Marcus 
Alarlcopa 
Marlon 
Martins 
Cal 
513.8
Oai 
Nev... Or 
Or 
1000
 60
Ariz. ..
Or 
Cal 
sSS
892.3
Iron Point 
Irving 
706113
Irvlnvllle 
Matiin 
Utah...
Cal. ...
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal....
'¦¦isdo 6000 450900
720
Irvington 
Ivy 
Cal 
Cal..
500
75
Martinez 
Marysville 
Maxwell 
Mayfleid 
Mayhew 
McAvoy 
McCioud 
McConnells ....
McCoy's 
McMinnville... McPherson 
Medford 
Melitta 
86.64
143
Ariz....
2241
¦"i'es
134.04
Jefferson 
Or 
Cal 
Or 
Oal..
250
250350
36
Junction City..
Kaweab 
Cal 
16
3349 49
Cal....
Oal 
Or 
Or 
Cal 
Or 
Cal 
¦¦'i'do soo
835
Cal 
27054222 669 97
120.30
Utali...Oal 
Cal 
135
Kennet .
262
1399
517.6
Kimberlena..
Cal 
446
Kingsburg 
Kings City 
Kirkwood 
Knighta Lndg,.
Koimar 
Oal 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal....Utah. .
450200
¦¦¦356
300333
236 45
70.41
Melrose 
Menlo Parlr 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal.. .
100
400
18
64
11.54
3245.51
Merced 
Merlin 
Cal 
Or 
3000
171
151.73
Kuraud 
Cal
¦¦42I6 6245 4165
23502335 1681 4
¦¦•¦•gg
¦¦¦916 19
64
4043
485
L,ake 
Utah...
Cal
Merrltts 
Mescal 
Cal 
56
4034 294626356
'4226 8
23
81.61
Lake View 
Ariz....
1016.8
N.M...Cal 
Cal 
¦"¦ 75
Mesquite 
Middle Oreelt..
Midway 
Millers 
.Mill Oity 
Millbrae 
Milpitas 
Mllfs 
Millsholm 
Milton 
3al 
694.1
Lancaster 
Cal 
Dal 
Or 
Nev....Cal 
Cal 
Oal 
1
100300
600
'P9I
Cal.. ..
La Patera 
Latham 
Latbrop 
Cal....
Or 
Cal.Cal 
Cal 
Cal... .
Cal...Nev
 50
600150100
'¦¦¦306
386 41.72
102
Cal.
180.57
Cal 
Or.....Oal 
200 125
381
121.7
Lawrence 
Milwaukee ....
Mlnneola 
Ml-turn 
Miraiiores 
Mirage... 
Modesto 
Moh'wlt Sum'it
766
215.65
Or 
Cal 
500
Jal 
242 138
4247 91
541
2751 4981
168
Cal 
Nev....
510.9
Or 
Oal ...
40
313
Lemon 
Cal 
Ariz...
2500
114.34
Cal. ..
414
787
Ligurta 
Cal 
150
381.7
Cal 
Cal.Cal 
N.M...Oal 
Ca 
Ca 
Ca 
Ca 
Oai. ...
Oal .
400
¦¦'600 ¦¦¦2d6 2603^8 700
485 136
""¦55 108 72
400 4135
42455595 293 278
258222400
Moleen 
Monson 
Montague 
Montalvo 
546
Oal 
240.75
Cal 
2542 16
4991 5
1330
4226 6167 722 13
60
3156 1055 73
377
Cal 
495.3
Cal 
Cal 
Nev. . . .
102
495.3
Livermore 
Livingston 
Lockford 
Lodi 
Logandale 
Montecito 
Montello 
Monterey 
Montezuma 
Monument. 
Moors 
Morley 
Morocojo 
Morraiio 
Mott 
525667
Cal 
Ariz...
Utah...
2300 50
125
878.1 756
Nev....
633
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
N. M..
Nev....
Cal 
400750 125
300
eoboo
Cal 
282
Long Beach...
Cal 
112
Cal 
99.84
333
Lordsburg 
Cal 
Cal 
200
Mound City....
Mountain View
Mt. View 
Mt. Eden 
Mowrys 
Muddy 
Muileq 
543.1
Los Angeles 
Cal 
Or 
400
39
Cal 
Cal....
350
20 12
20
Wasblngtn st
Cal.;:::gal 
¦'sooo lOp
32
Or 
670
Los Clulicos 
Gal 
'ii
84.12
•0'ti^*ti'^><*TJ'fl'fl^'^'fl'fl*^'T)hfl»flh3'T3T^^*t^fln3h:'fl*ti'^'fl»fl*TJ'fl^^^fl^'T3OodoOCCOOOOCOOCOOOO2«l^S!5Sa^ 5^:^215^:255 2Sgggg

?»pS»»S'^»P»PPPP® 8»» tf »!:iHrt»>»63ff»5'pH'^-7'lE£»»i^^CTi t. *" ^ EO » -I rj P P P tf jn » tf P ££.2— ^-^^ — ^
te:"": &"": riT.^rrr.*^ TrP:'"?? • frrr&ri^r' '. F.^: f-.s^.^'.-.-^:: NC-: ^n; :::::::• : :::::::::::::: : i ¦•:::: !

lU cntCk
ooD3cnto ototoo. )->,
MOoocn -

OJOt-" W OJO-
OO"*©: O. oo: Oi
000». O- OO. O

00 OS- cnU)' too: i.j|-ilO'
w-'cj": ooj; hJQoi-i' oooto;
-joco- -^to. ocnoj 4^oto.

o:lO-5lootsOJi^M

OOcn-QOoocntDo

O ibO
ooj-?Kioo;OQtcncnoO'

r- cn •
oioto cn ¦ to •-•
OOO o : occcn
ooo o . ooo

coos. 0^ ¦ Ol iF>- - 4^ )F^)P>>
ocn' CO -I- I-* M i-'i-'^o. -5coioi-iioi
i-*co: ip-iots: co-ioitooD>Cao: tocnaootooa: i-ii-ii-tcnv; i-'^cncn^Ooc
OOJ. 0030J >to..qcocnt-'-Ji-'. >-'cnojtoci30- tPrf^-^cnto. kh^ooco^od

Mcnio-sMM-sio i-*oi MiCktOiC^ -ato*'0)i-> -^Mcnioto-^toocooi co*i.cncn>-'-ci03CTcno-a-Qaoo cn •-•)frao i-«^ cnoo
0:0~^00>-.*tOCO-Q030l-' •-••&• i^aJtO3-(St0 coos lUOAtDCO>->'-^>-'>-'CnCOOlOlOt0090Ja:IOOJCnCn>-'tOtD03i-'03Ci3 CntO Ol>-*t0tO-303OS00tOi^CO03CDtO
1^ I-I o: o -} Cd tocn toto cn to K' ecoo7.3 OJ 1^ H' •-• to o OJ o:-i 1^ coooa rf^to ost^ tocnto f^ OS OJ »-• OJ-:] 03CO )-• •.! o cn cop-QO^
Cncn -4 to!-ito -^od tocoocnto ^ k-i co cc^ oo to to >-• i^ ^m ^ Oh->bj eoto

osMCo- oicn
cntoo: oo
ocno. oo

i->. to
tots- to
cnoj: ooio:
^cn- OQi

MO-cno.OO-

50^

Population

Elevation

tocncncistoai-'tStStOtOi-'

ootoco >» to ts cn to >u
00 00 o CD OJ t-^ "^ to oo ts
osiu 03

MUes from
S. Francisco

GDCow(/)(/)oacnaicoc/:(/303 cKcn co cncccncocncoc/ic/ic/i

.io B Cb 3 £ .-IP'S B K'S.M n® 2.2 s* » ''^M S ^Stk ^ ST'... —
.« = g?'?i|S's£sSrSicgi|3=:."gogg«: P'i.Q

W, I-t.-.

1= C c

pppBs tf tf tf tf tf tf ^tf tf tf i^tf tf © tf tf tf -T^tf tf ^iTf tf tf £.E£n "^ S-r* ® sr" £.£2.£.E.£.E2

!z;ow
Xo H
> ¦
H
O2!:/3 I
n oHwa
tsosoo:OO'
-^tO'
tOOO' ooo;OOO'
coco^cnoocnooooo oooo
cntSiC>toocnocn, OOOO'
to to to
wcncncn
tSOJOOO'ooooo;ooooo.
^O OS
oocnooooo
CO OJtOtC
o ooo *-•
ocnoooojoooooocno
ootsoo oo
cno3oo; OtS'
*-> toco ¦
cn cncnt-«*
OCnOOO:ooooo
CO to to
t-'tOCO'-'OJ tpgaoos
i-«0:0' C — ^ —
CO I.J )_t _q_3 COO-^: COh-lo: tDt*»Q0tDO0CiS Oi-'i-'iti.
jQto ootp cn tscnco-cuQ-c* ooJto oaxipai-'ooi torf^cncn
(-•to I-* ts«—
10 -J o: *>-Q « OS CO cnoD
w -Q CO *>. too OO-QCOj
tICO ts- ?£>¦ -
COtCk' CO<ltS COO- tOh^it* -
t3Go; >-'to.Ck-5ooi: -acccD-q;
0-3 cncetotoooD- Oi-^-OtO-
Q0";wtotoo5 Elevation
Population
to -Q cn Ji l-l *>. ipw ^ cn— • I-i
t0t0tCLO<CO>£^t000C0--3OtS tSOO CO
i-'GoaotocO'^ixio-JOscnoo t--^ o
^cn ^eooboco ^o.fr
otcni-'Cncn to t-'i-' *•
,{ki;itOi-'OCOOi-^OtSO-3)-'Oi>tittitO to
-Q»fk-5cnrfi.h-i-:i-Q-Qi-'0:tScnO7Q0:o ^
o:6o^to»-'cn ^ ^ rf»
o» i-<i-ico to ioo;>-"-'-Qi-' to >-'cn-5M»-»*i.yi&cotOM-j tocn—'cntO^-'.
t-iO 0CiOt0tDtSl!S-5C0'-'OtSC0QDO:O:"-'i-'Cn-3JiOO-JOStO00H-C*I0JJ^C0-^*»C0.
**0 t3o?Os.&.00:i-'0:OO^Oto»COC(»j-'-.?tSO;H'M*»"QO'iOtS*»>-3H-'0:tS>C»rfi.o::
ts to 00 ^ cn oj^ coco iik o>toenosco ;
cn OD -.)«» 00 -:i OJ O -
ts totsts—tso
COtOJia:tStOtS~3 )-iooo( c cn oo o CO
Miles from
S. Francisco
278

OVES THE SANGE

INDEX TO STATIONS— Continued.

STATIONS

State or
Terr'ty

o
rt
1

flo
1

si

STATIONS

State or
Terr'ty

a
1

fl0
I

Seminary Park
Sentinel

Cal

11
688
4603 461
227 450
584
4160
¦¦¦'lo
'¦'i'i6¦¦4634 459 112
1387
41303555

12.25
830.5
1157.6 473.6 313476.6 590.9164
680 7.96
li?'^^
488.6 169
311414338302
393 382200 193 20.82 57.31
143116
431.9 31.01 64.51
511.5125
646815.9 13.92
431
1119.4 64.36
880 91.7 8.-75
455
1373.3 303
497.3 49.5
195 36.60
104.17
902.1 80.64
770.8246.56 183.48
111.89101.67186
685437 113.25
247.65 44.19
674361.7 187.34
213
466.5 222709 793.2503
494.6618.8283 42.06
26152 650
256.76 923.8
6.77

Towles

Cal ....

3704 64
292 61
514

160

Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
200 600
71 73
N.M...
Cal 
232.46
Tremont 
Tres Pinos 
Trigo 
72 77
Cal... .
Cal 
Cal 
500
101
Sespe 
Cal 
114 7
Cal 
Cal 
Oal 
Ariz...Cal 
Nev....
Nev....
'¦ isdo
10000 4000 30
428
58193390 282
5484431344221401 107
¦¦¦i'l 7
4156 244
¦'5000 2360
Shady Run 
Shedds 
Cal
Truckee 
Tucson  
210
Or 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal ....
Nev ...
80
40
¦¦¦250 150
Sheilville 
Tule 
420
Shingle Springs
Tunis 
N. M...
Cal 
1190.1 455,9
Oal 
Cal 
Or 
Oal 
Nev. .
250400600
Silsby 
Cal 
Cal 
Or..
53
nv
Siskiyou 
Two Miles Sta..
Cal 
Oal 
250
Oal 
278
Udell 
Uilin 
Cal 
Nev....
73.02
662
325 64.56
997.8 29.01
131.32
Cal 
975
2675 186
6749 23
Snowdon 
Cal. ,.
Cal 
Oal 
Oal 
Upper Soda
Springs 
Vacavifie 
Vail 
Cal 
Sod a Springs...
Cal 
Ariz....
- 60G
Sobre Vista.
Cal 
Vallejo June...
Valley Spring..
Vanarman 
Vanden 
Vega 
Verdi 
Cal 
12
Soledad 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
200500
182 53
2360 14
Cal 
Ariz. ..
60
Cal 
78
¦¦4895 165
213 104
54 83
97
234
496.8205 66 45
492 5
Bouth Vallejo...
Cal 
Cal 
5506
Cal 
Ney...,
icos 
Vervain 
Vina 
Ca ...
Spadra 
Cal 
Cal 
250
11
¦¦¦566 23
30354351 254
Ca 
Ca 
150
Spences 
Violet 
Springfield.. . .
Or....:.Ariz.. .
Cal 
200
Vinvale 
Cal 
Stanwix 
Vernalis 
Vincent 
Vista 
Volcano Spr'gs.
Wade 
Oal 
Stege 
Cal.... Nev....
32114403 235567
4085
'"i'96 65
394
'"¦46
'¦¦¦¦23 316 26
5628
" " 'ii
431.5
252 660.8321.3378 630131.33
635 100.7
516.1
867 60.71
Or 
Steins Fass 
N. M...
Cal 
Or 
¦¦'sjs'do
Cal 
St. Helena 
Cal 
Nov....
Or 
Oal 
cal 
¦¦¦6'6i
¦ "i'so
Wadsworth 
Walkers 
Wallace .... ..
Walters 
Walthall 
Stockton 
Stockyards. ..
Or 
Cal 
20000
23 17
4422 102
7017 264
Nev....
N. M...
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Or 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
Cal 
'iodo 200
Warfleld 
Warm Springs.
Summit 
Oal 
Cal 
Cal..
"sdoo
376.1 101113.7 81.44
614
919 10.42
Surrey 
Watsonville ....
Waveriy 
Webster 
Wells 
Surbon 
Utah...
Suver's 
Or 
Ariz. .
Oal 
25
1296
Cal 
Sweet Water...
Nov....
Or 
Cal 
Or 
670
Tacna 
Ariz....
325
292 314
West Berkeley.
West Fork 
West Glendale.
West Oakland. .
West San Lean-
Tagus 
Cal...Cal 
Talbot 
Cal 
¦ ¦12 2010
474.3 5.89
Talson 
Cal 
Cal
Tancred....
Cal 
Cal ...
Tamarack 
Cal 
6200
15
17
101.25130
887314
Tangent 
Talent 
Or 
Or 
Cal 
70
25
West San Lor-
Cal 
Tartron 
Cal 
Taurusa 
Teal 
Cal 
Oal 
¦¦¦¦'lo 4812 3964 222232
Wheatland 
Whites 
Oal 
Or 
600
90
Tecoma 
Nev....
Cal 
Oal. ...
Cal 
Cal 
60
300500329
White Plains...
White Kock....
Whitewater...
Whitneys 
Whittier 
Wlldwood 
Wilbur 
Nev...
3894
Tehachapi 
Cal 
Tehama 
Oal 
1126 139
239
583 4
Tehama 
Oal...
114503.1 63 81
Tejunga 
Oal 
Cal 
500
Templeton 
Cal 
Cal 
500
773 327
4548 1? 140
"im
Tennent 
Or 
Ariz....Cal 
Cal 
Or 
Cal 
100
500450
1600 250 9M
"ii'ei 84
136
 9
266445574333 5723 201
583
1065.3 125.19150.87767504.5985.1
1170.2 414212486.8 76.82
604106.31
Terrace 
Utah...
Ariz.... Cal 
100
Willcox
Texas HUl 
Williams 
Willows 
Willsburg 
Wilmington.... Wiiraox 
Wilna...
The Palms 
Thermal 
Tiilsbe 
Oal 
Oal. ,.
Nev....
100
Thompson 
Cal... .
N. M...
Nev ..
Cal
"¦2006
Tipton 
Toano 
Cal 
Nov....Cal 
300 123
367
5976 267 183
Winnemucca...Winsted 
Winthrop 
Winters
Tokay 
Cal
Toltec 
Ariz. ..
Cal 
Or 
Cal 
600 15
250
Cal 
Wolf Creek 
VToodbridiEe....
Tortuea 
Cal 
TO THE GOLDEN GATE.

279

INDEX TO STATIONS -Continued.

STATIONS

State or
Terr'ty

1s

§

il
It 74.85
741
465 348

STATIONS

State or
Terr'ty

§
1

co

£5

Wolfskin 

Oal ....

Touatvllle 
Tuba ...

Cal 
Cal 
Cal.... Ariz....
Cal

500600
'¦¦i2o'6

107 71
6500 140

55 05

Woodburn 

Or 
Or 
Nov....
Or 

300 100

¦¦4o'd8

141

Woodville 
Woolsey 

Yuba Pass 
Yuma 

178730.9

Woodstock 

67.91

Oal 
Oal 
Cal....Or 
4500 150
3011 40
63
990 79
85.9590.86
606
Cal 
Cal.... N. M...
95
¦4l'87
70
Wrights 
399
Yolo 
Zuni 
1209.5
Toncalla 
COMPLETE INDEX TO STATIONS ON THE "NORTHERN
DIVISION" OF THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC COMPANY.
CALIFORNIA.
Stations.
do
1
1
d
ll 93
Stations.
ig
B0
¦y >
o'o . U
Sfl
'""im 300
¦¦¦256
¦¦¦¦ido
¦¦¦¦edo ¦¦¦¦ido ¦¦¦'ido
¦¦¦¦225 ¦¦¦2200 350
¦¦¦2600 150150 160
¦¦¦¦g'do 600200
191348 102 394831
186177!ii 7
232 103
259 171 23
251 180 48
193 127
267 147
284 332 64
320342 14
28 64 8
58
63
112 12
115 25 4
80
196183 110152129158 9
113 6357iJ
135 til5594
163 44
116 69
113 353217
2500
¦¦¦¦506 ¦¦¦'so'o 100
800
¦¦"isdo 2600
¦¦¦¦i'so 50
ssd^d'oo 26000 100
950700
3000 7600 100
300360
'"¦¦sdo 200
2600
5
740 13
78
95
293 33
723299 9
44
153
452 15
21 12
86
396 23
616 7218
135182 53
79
337773514 23
125
119
Morocojo 
112
Mountain View 
39
42
Oak Grove 
19
Ocean View 
7
99
216
66
28
Salinas 
118
106
Sanardo 
182
14
San Carlos 
26
Sail Francisco 
50
San Lucas 
San Mateo 
172
21
San Miguel 
207
Greystone 
47
121
Sargents 
87
Soledad 
143
115
125
Tennants 
72
Terapleton 
222
Tres Pinoa 
101
Watsonville 
101
Millbrae 
INDEX

OF TOWNS AND POINTS OF INTEREST.

PAGE.
Acequia  17
.\lta   66
Alta Branch  66
Alamosa  99
Alcazar, The, S. F  173
Alcatraz and Angel Islands  175
Alhambra  215
Alviso  222
Albany  249
American Fork  65
Amargo  118
American River Biidge  163
Antelope Springs  105
Antonito   107
Antioch  179
Animas Cafion  122
Andei-son  243
Anthracite  44
Army Point  165
Arkansas Valley  34
Aspen  54
Aspen Branch  52
Ashland  247
Athlone  180
Auburn  161
Avalanche Creek  52
Aztec  122
Azusa  200
Barranca  108
Baldwin Theatre, S. F  173
Banks, S. F    175
Banta  179
Bakersfield  183
Bathing Pool, The  52
Bathing, Accommodations for_ 50
Battle Mountain  151
Benicia  165
Bentwood  179
Bethany  179
Berenda  180
Bear Creek Falls  136
Beowawe  151
Bingham  66
Bingham Junction  66
Bingham Branch  66
Bijou Theatre, S. F  173
Big Tree, The  235
Black Canon of the Gunnison.. 86
Bloomfield  122
Book Cliffs, The  58
Bi-oadmoor  .  23
Brown's Cafion  41
Brigham  146
Browns  153

280

PAGE.
Bush Street Theatre, S. F  173
Buena Vista  41
Burnham..  16
Byron  179
Byron Hot Springs  179
By Rail to Los Angeles  193
Castle Gate  59
California State Mining Bureau, r75
Cameron  1S5
Caliente  '    183
Carpentiria  193
Camulos  195
Calumet Branch  41
Cafion of the Grand River  48
Carbondale  52
Carlin...  150
Carquinez, Crossing Straits of 165
Carson Lake  154
Cascade  160
Cape Horn  161
Castle Rock  17
Castroville  227
Calaveras Grove, The  235
Carlisle Springs  31
Cafion City  34
Cedar Divide  90
Cedar Pass  149
Chippeta Fall..   86
Chama  n8
Chinese Theatre, S. F  173
Chico  240
Chica Vecino  241
Cheyenne Mountain  23
Cimarron  88
Cimarron Cafion  88
Cliff Dwellings  126
Cliff House    16S
Claremont  200
Climate, The  209
Ciui-o  151
Climate of Puget Sound, The.. 259
Climb'g Sierra Navada R'ge 155-159
Clark's Magnetic Spring  31
Coal Basin  54
Corinne  146
Colfax  161
Colorado SpHngs  21
Colorado City   _._ 23
Coal Creek  34
Coal Creek Branch  33
Colorado Desert, The  57
Coal Branch  60
Comanche Cafion  109
Coal Mines  179

INDEX.

281

PAGE.
Compton  189
Colton  201
Coronado  _. 207
Cucamonga  209
Cottonwood Springs  41
Crane's Park  46
Creede  '  105
Creede Branch  99
Crested Butte   82
Crested Butte Branch  82
Crystal  54
Clippie Creek   '33
Currecanti Needle  88
Cuchara Junction   95
Cumbres   118
Davis  164
Dallas    139
Denver  13-15
Delta  92
Del Norte  loi
Descending to the Desert  185
Desei-t  154
Del Monte  227
Dillon  144
Divide  249
Dolores  .. 130
Dolores Cafion  130
Doubling on our track  177
Donner Lake  159
Douglass .  17
Downward to Dillon  144
Durango  120
Duarte  200
Dutch Flat  160
Eastern Railway Lines, S. F_ . 175
East Riverside  201
Eagle River Cafion  47
ElMoro  93
Elmii-a  165
Elk Park    124
Elk Mountain Railway  52
Elko  150
Embudo  iii
Emigrant Gap  160
Espanola  m
Espanola to Santa Fe  112
Eugene  249
Express Office, S. F   175
Extension of D. & R. G. R. R.. 52
Fai-inington   __ 122
Fair Oaks-  219
Fertile Valleys   194
Fertile Vallev, A  2Qt
Florence & Cripple Creek R. R 32
Florence--.   32. 189
Fort Dushane    59
Fort Logan  17
Fountain   29
Fruita  5^
Fresno  180
Fremont Pass    142
Garland-  -..   --. 97

PAGE.
Garfield Memorial  118
Geological Features  145
Glenwood Springs  49
Glen Park  19
Golden Gate Park, S. F  168-173
Goose Creek, The  84
Goshen Division, The  182
Goshen  182
Golconda  ii;i
Grape Creek Cafion  36
Grand Junction  56
Grand Canon of the Coloi-ado-- 59
Grand Valley  56
Great Salt Lake  70
Granite  43
Gravelly Ford  151
Green River  58
Gunnison  82
Hack Fare, S. F.  175
Harbor, A Magnificent  261
Helper  59
Historic Ground  160
Hot Spring  34, 78, 154
Hotel del Monte, The  229
Humboldt  153
Humboldt Lake  154
Ignacio   -- 120
Independence Lake  159
Irrigation in the Artesian Belt- 183
Jacksonville  247
Jordan River   . 66
Junction  163
King's River  1S2
Kingsburg...  182
Keiton  147
Kyune   60
Lake City  86
Lake City Branch  84
Lake Fork Cafion  84
La Veta  95
La Jara  106
Lathrop  179
Lamanda Park  198
Lake Elsinore  203
Lake Region, The  154
Lake Tahoe  ..  iS7
Lehi  66
Leland Stanford Jr., University 222
Leadville  44
Lick Observatory, The  J  225
Lincoln  237
Littleton  17
Lizard Head Pass  130
Lower Crossing  59
Los Pinos Valley  114
Los Angeles  186
Los Angeles to Santa Barbai-a. 189
Los Angeles to San Diego  196
Lordsburg  200
Los Angeles, Returning to  209
Lost Cafion  130
Long Beach  218

382

INDEX.

PAGE.
Los Gatos  225
Marshall Pass   So
Marshall Pass Station  80
Manassa  107
Martinez  ,  177
Madera  180
Markets, S. F   175
Magnificent Scenery  122
Marysville    237
Manufacturing  254
Mancoe  128
Manitou  23-27
Mears Junction  78
Merchants Exchange, S. F  175
Merced  180
Menlo Park  221
Mission Dolores, The, S. F  172
Milbrae  219
Minturn  47
Mirage  153
Monarch Brancli  'jb
Montrose  92
Monte Vista  100
Modesto  180
Mojave Desert, The  185
Mojave ...i  185
Montalvo  194
Monrovia   200
Mount of the Holy Cross  46, 142
Moors  149
Monterey  231
Modern Improvements  253
Monument  19, 147
MonumentPark  19
Murietta  203
Mud Lake  154
Muir's Peak  245
National City  206
Newhall  186
Nevada Desert, The  153
Newcastle  56, 161
Oakland Pier  165
Oakland  177
Ocean Side  203
Ojo Caliente  109
Old Mission, The--.  193
Ontario  209
Ophir Loop  132
"Orpheum" Opera House, S. F. 173
Ortega  193
Oreana  153
Oroville  .  239
Oregon City  250
Ouray  137
Ouray to Montrose  139
Overland Park  16
Palmer Lake  17
Parnassus Springs  31
Parkdale  39
Palmilla  107
Pagosa Springs  118
Pacific Slope. The   120

PAGE.
Panorama Building, S. F  173
Pasadena  196
Palisades of the Humboldt  150
Palisade  150
Pacific Grove  231
Penny's Hot Springs  54
Peri-y Park  17
Petersburg  16
Phantom Curve  114
Pinole  165
Picturesque Surroundings  254
Pike's Peak  27
Pleasant Valley Junction  60
Placer  97
Plains Region, The  .  163
Poncha .  76
Poncha Pass  78
Poncha Springs  76
Port Costa  .  165
Port Los Angeles  217
Post Office, S. F  175
Point Fermin  19c)
Pomona  212
Portland  250
Price  1  59
Provo  64
Presidio Reservation, S. F  175
Prospect  54
P'romontory  146
Pueblo of San Juan  ,  iii
Pueblo de Taos  112
Pueblo of Santa Clara  112
Pueblo  29
Pyi-amid Lake  154
Rayinond  196
Red Narrows  60
Redwood  221
Red Cliff Canon  47
RedCliff  47
Reno  155
Red Bluff  241
Redding  244
Rico.^  130
Ridgway  132, 139
Rifle  56
Riverside  203
Royal Gorge  39
Roseville  207
Robinson's Lake  54
Rocklin  161
Rogue River Valley  247
Roseburg  249
Rye Patch  .•  153
Salida  .. ._   40
San Luis Valley Branch  78
Sapinero  84
Saltair  73
Salt Lake City  66
Salt Lake to Ogden  7^1
San Luis Park  97
Santa Cruz   m, 225
Santa Fd   113

INDEX.

2S3

PAGE.
Sacramento  163
San Francisco  167
San Francisco Bay  169
San Joaquin Valley, The  --. 179
San Fernando Tunnel  186
San Fernando  186
San Pedro  189
Santa Barbara  190
San Pedro to Santa Barbara  190
San Clemeth Island  190
Santa Catalina Island  190
San Buenaventura  193
Santa Paula  :  195
Saticoy  195
Saugus  196
San Gabriel Valley, The  199
San Bernardino--  200
San Diego  205
San Diego Bay  206
San Gabriel  215
Santa Monica  215
San Pete Valley Branch, The. - 60
San Mateo   219
San Bruno  219
San Francisco to Monterey  219
Santa Clai-a  222
San Jose  222
Salem  249
Scenic Attraction  249
Seal Rocks  ,.  168
Selma  182
Seattle  263
Seattle, Advantages of  264
Seattle, Beauty of the City  266
Sedalia  17
Shasta  245
Silver Cliff Bi-anch  36
Sierra Bianca  97
Sierra Madre Villa   199
Silverton  124
Sieri-a Nevada Range, The. - 155, 159
Siskiyou Station  247
Sixteenth Street, Oakland  165
.Soldier Summit  60
Southward Bound  177
South Pasadena  196
South Riverside  201
Source of the Arkansas  142
Soda Springs  160, 227
Spanish Fork  62
Spanish Fork Canon  61
Springville  62
Spanish Peaks  93
Straits of Carquinez  165
Stock Exchange, S. F  175
Streetcar Fares, S. F  175
Stage Ride, a Romantic  136
State Line, The...   247
Sutro Heights, S. F  175
Summit  160
Sweetwater Dam, The  209
Tacoma  255

PAGE.
Tehachapi Pass  185
Tehachapi Summit  185
Telluride  132
Tennessee Pass  44
Tehama  241
Terminal and Shipping Facil
ities    261
Tea Trade with the Orient  263
Thistle Junction  60
Tintic Branch  62
Tivoli Opera House, S. F  173
Tipton  183
Tomichi Meadows  82
Toltec Gorge  116
Towns in the Desert  149
Toano  149
Trinidad  -_ 93
Trinidad Bi-anch  93
Trout Fishing in the Rio
Grande  105
Trout Lake  132
Tracy   179
Traver  182
Trimble Hot Springs  122
Truckee  155
Trade with S. America and
Mexico  259
Trade with the Middle We.st.-. 261
Tulare  183
Tulare County, Resources of-- 1S2
Twelve Mile Canon  150
Twin Lakes  43
Umpqua, Valley of the  249
United States Mint, S. F  175
Utah Valley  61
Utah Lake  65
Vallejo Junction  165
Valley of the Eagle  47
VanceJunction   132
Valley of the Humboldt  150
Valley Region, The  151
Veta Pass  9S
Villa Grove  7^
Waunita Hot Springs, The  82
Walsenburg  95
Wagon Wheel Gap  loi
Wadsworth  154
Walker's Lake  IS4
West Cliff  36
Wellsville Hot Springs  39
Webster  164
Wells  149
Webber Lake  159
Wheatland  237
Wilson's College  189
Wildomar    203
Winnemucca  - 151
Winnemucca Lake  15^
Wild Scenery'  244
Wolhurst.  17
Yosemite  233
Yuba River, The...  .-- 237

( UA'I'.'fcRSITY )]

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

3 9002 01407 7169

¦¦'>..>-'^>