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#Ke John Boit Log
and Captain Gray's Log
of the Ship Columbia

AnnptatioHS by
F. W. HowAY AND T. C. Elliott

MtfoducSoH^
F.G.Young

; Benrinted from Oreeon HisterieBl Qumtecly.
Volume XXII. No. 4

CAPTAIN ROBERT GRAY

SHIP COLUMBIA

May II, 1792, Captain Gray, in command of the ship "Columbia," sailed into
the Columbia River and anchored a short distance from what is now known as
Chinook Point, opiJosite Astoria. He named the river after his vessel. The
"Columbia" was built near Boston in 1773 and was broken to pieces in 1801. It
was the first vessel to carry the Stars and Stripes around the world. It is
believed this was the original flag made by Mrs. Betsy Ross, according to the
design adopted by Congress on June 14, 1777- Taken from the photograph of a
large oil painting by an eastern artist for C. S Jackson, publisher of the Oregon
Daily Journal, and used for the first time in a Souvenir Edition of that paper in
1005. The photograph was presented to the Portland Press Club.

The John Boit Log
and Captain Gray's Log
of the Ship Columbia
Annotations by
F. W. HowAY AND T. C. Elliott
Introduction by
F.G. YOUNG
The Massachusetts Historical Society early in 1919 received
as a bequest from Robert Apthorpe Boit the journals and log
books of his grandfather, John Boit. Among these was a
journal kept of the Columbia's second voyage from Boston to
the northwest coast of America for the collection of furs from
the Indians for the markets of China. The Colwmbia's first
voyage is memorable as the first circumnavigation of the globe
by an American ship. Captain Robert Gray was in command
of the vessel on this first voyage from the time of her departure
from the northwest coast to China and retained command
throughout the second voyage. This second voyage of which
the Boit journal gives an account outshines the first in renown
through the fact that in course of it the Columbia river was
first entered and was named for the vessel.
Not only thus is the Boit journal a record of probably the
most memorable of American voyages but it is also unique in
being the only record extant of this voyage as a whole. And
of none of the parallel voyages in these furtrading activities
of this period by Americans is there a similar complete record.
Of the official log of the Columbia only a remnant is preserved,
covering the days from May 7th (1792) to May 21st, or from
the time Gray first approached the entrance to Gray's harbor,
to be discovered and by him named Bulfinch harbor, to his
return to that vicinity after having entered and named tbe
Columbia river. This portion of the official log is reprinted in
this number of the Quarterly with the Boit document.

258 John Boit
This journal of John Boit was published in volume 53 of
The Proceedings of the Massachusetts Historical Society. That
portion of it recording the movements of the Columbia while
on this coast was reprinted in The Washington Historical
Quarterly, volume XII, No. I. The Oregon Historical Society
would here express highest appreciation of the courtesy of
the Massachusetts Historical Society in granting it the privilege
of reprinting this document. To the Washington State Uni
versity Historical Society it is indebted for the use of the
annotations made by Professor Edmond S. Meany in his re
print. The items of bibliography in Professor Meany's In
troduction are exceedingly valuable.
The considerations that compel the reprinting complete of
the Boit log of the Columbia in the Quarterly of the Oregon
Historical Society are connected primarily with the specially
planned annotations with which it here appears. And the
command of this source record as a whole enables us also more
easily to see the wider relations and meaning of this voyage
and thus to connect the flow of our Pacific northwest history
with the currents of the world's greatest movements. This
document contains the record of a close inspection of this
coast line through two summers by an experienced navigator
spying out opportunities for trade with the native tribes. The
Columbia passed up and down the stretch of coast from Cape
Blanco at about the 43d parallel to the 55th parallel and be
yond, covering a large portion of it half-a-dozen times and
nearly all of it as many as four times. This log registers the
latitude and longitude from observations taken regularly of
the vessel's position. Through annotations on the entries of
such a record that utilize critically all the sources of light from
other MS. and printed records of exploration available, this
document becomes the best guiding clue through the some
what labyrinthine confusion necessarily created by the condi
tions under which these sources of the exploration history of
the Pacific Northwest were produced. Both the region to be
explored and the combination of explorers participating were
factors in creating this confusion. The intricacy of the coast
line indentations north of the Straits of Juan de Fuca and the

Log of the Columbia 259
multitudinous island groups constituted a veritable labyrinth
of passages to be defined. Then representatives of four or
five different nationalities simultaneously and without con
cert participated in effecting the exploration. That such
materials of history may enter into the lives of a people they
needs must be sublimated and vitalized. Adequate annotation
is the first step toward this end.
Through the Boit log we have for the first time a view of
this historic voyage .as a unit. We are in position, therefore,
to get more completely the meaning of it. But this meaning
and the import of the record cannot be satisfactorily grasped
unless the situation under which the Columbia participated in
this work of exploration is clearly visualized. To get this
background it is necessary to note the transformation wrought
during the last quarter of the 18th century in the geography
of northwest America, affecting nearly if not quite one-fourth
of the continent. The typical map of this part of North
America at the opening of the fourth quarter of that century
represented an inland sea as occupying a goodly share of the
lower portion of this region and two or three wide straits cut
ting diagonally across the upper part. The actors in this
transformation scene were to approach independently from the
landward and the seaward sides. Alexander Mackenzie played
almost the sole role during this period in the exploration on
land from the east. The Mackenzie river, the Peace river and
portions of the Fraser and other rivers were placed on the map.
From the side of the sea the participating personnel included
illustrious representatives of four leading nations but Robert
Gray through entering the Columbia on this second voyage won
the highest honor. Through such cooperation the salient fea
tures of the interior and the coast line of northwest America
were defined, named and mapped.
By following now a little more in detail the development
of this quarter of a century of exploration from the seaward
side we get the stage setting for Robert Gray's achievement.
The Sparfsh authorities with newly established outposts as far
north as San Francisco Bay were first on the scene. Reports
of advances down the coast from the Alaskan region by

260 John Boit
Russian explorers as well as anxiety about possible use of a
supposed northwest passage incited the Spaniards to activity in
exploration beginning in 1774. In the next few years under
Perez, Heceta and Cuadra a cursory inspection of the coast was
made from the 55th parallel south. No Russian trespassers
were detected nor was the fabled northwest passage or Straits
of Anian discovered. However, Heceta in 1775 did detect evi
dences of the mouth of a large river in latitude 46° 9', but
did not succeed in entering it. At this time James Cook, the
English navigator, was dispelling the darkness that was still
hovering over the south Pacific region. On his third voyage
of discovery spurred by an offer of Parliament of £20,000 for
the discovery of a northwest passage through the continent
of North America he passed up along the northwest coast in
1778 and made, a landing in Nootka Sound. The immediate
and moving outcome of his voyage was the disclosure of the
opportunity of riches through trade in sea-otter furs to be
secured from the northwest Indians for trifles and marketed
in China. Beginning in 1785 the grand rush in this maritime
fur trade was on. The flags of half-a-dozen nations were soon
in evidence in these waters. Some of the English fur traders
took steps looking towards a permanent occupation of the
shore at Nootka Sound. This was resented by the Spanish
authorities as they had priority in discovery and had occupied
the coast, though their post was some 750 miles to the south.
Seizures and a diplomatic controversy followed that seriously
threatened war between Spain and England in 1790. In the
meantime inlets offering means of trade contacts with the
Indians were being spied out and visited more and more fre
quently by vessels plying back and forth and up and down the
coast. "In the year 1792, there were twenty-one vessels under
different flags," writes Washington Irving, "plying along the
coast and trading with the natives." Log books and seamen's
journals were kept and reports were made. As they pertained
to the affairs of a lucrative trade and some of them had to do
with a hot international controversy they were in part pre
served and not a few, especially those whose authors had
public commissions, and those that had a bearing on disputed

Log of the Columbia 261
territorial claims, were published. Thus a body of source
material was accumulating. This material contains the sources
largely of the names of places of this region and constitutes
the records of the origins of the communities here developing.
History serves its leading purpose through such annals as the
cherished home traditions. The richest and best authenticated
nuclei of facts with their relations should be segregated and
organized for each locality. The annotations on the text of the
Boit journal here supplied through selecting the appropriate
portions of the other sources conserve and focus all the light
available for illuminating the stage of exploration in the his
tory of each locality visited by the Columbia during her sec
ond voyage, and at the same time furnish the means for a
more accurate and complete determination of the background
of the voyage as a whole. The Quarterly had the great good
fortune of interesting Judge F. W. Howay of New West
minster, British Columbia, in this project of making this prime
and recently available source of Pacific Northwest History
serve the largest and best purpose. Judge Howay's mastery
of northwest history sources, and his large personal acquaint
ance with the features of the coast line now British territory
make his annotations invaluable. Mr. T. C. Elliott of Walla
Walla, Washington, has been a like indefatigable student of
the sources of the history of the coast line south of the Straits
of Juan de Fuca. He annotates the entries of the Boit log
while the Columbia was on this section of the coast on her
trading tours. He also contributes the annotations to the
remnant of the official log of the Columbia still extant.
Turning now to the orientations of this achievement of
Captain Robert Gray in connection with the course of world
history. The discovery of the Columbia river recorded in the
two documents here reprinted completes at the end of a three
hundred year period of continuing progress, the full discovery
of America which in 1492 Christopher Columbus had initiated.
The westem continent in its essential features as a home for
civilized humanity was now revealed.
In sailing into the Columbia under the American flag Cap
tain Gray brought into the race a new competitor for the

262 John Boit
possession of this vast and still unacquired region of the basin
of the Columbia. For, in international usage or comity, the dis
covery of a river carried with it at least an inchoate title to
the territory drained by that river. The American people had
a zealous and an able exponent for promoting their interests
in view of this opening made for national expansion. Thomas
Jefferson did not let slip an opportunity to follow up this
basis for a claim to this part of the continent. With the pur
chase of Louisiana in 1803 proximity of possession was secured.
Then Lewis and Clark were dispatched so that only fourteen
years after Gray's presence in the river they were encamped
on the south bank. In less than half-a-dozen years later the
Astor expedition had established its fort at Astoria. And at
the end of another half-a-dozen years in 1818 the restoration
of the American flag was acknowledged by our only rival
claimant to this domain.
It needs, however, to be noted that this' discovery of the
Columbia river with the view of extending geographical knowl
edge, or of laying the basis for the extension of the jurisdiction
of his nation's sovereignty, was not the leading motive im
pelling Captain Gray in his exploit. Just how far it was in evi
dence in his consciousness it would be hard to say. Nothing
of the kind, I believe, figured in his instructionsi. This is not
by any means arguing that the discovery of the Columbia
river wasi an accident. The Columbia was being sailed the
third time along this stretch of the coast with the one purpose
in mind of finding new inlets affording desired opportunities
of new contacts! with the Indians that additions might be
made to his accumulations of furs for a cargo for the markets
of China. John Bolt's record of how the vessel in this latitude
was kept "beating off the coast waiting for to find a good
harbour" and of the practice thus , specified : "sent a boat in
shore often, but cou'd find no safe harbour," indicate that
Gray's determination and skill made the discovery at this time
virtually inevitable. Still more closely, negatively, is it posi-
sible with I the aid of the Boit document to discern Captain
Gray's purpose. Mr. Worthington C. Ford's annotation with
the original document in hand here comes to our aid. Re-

Log of the Columbia 263
ferring to the expression: "I landed abreast the ship with
Captain Gray to view the Country and take possession, leaving
charge with the 2d Officer", Mr. Ford notes, "the words 'and
take possession' were inserted at a later time and are in quite
different ink". The official log says, "In the afternoon. Cap
tain Gray and Mr. Hoskins, in the jolly-boat went on shore to
take a short view of the country." An over-zealous nationalist
it seems tampered with the record and made it say what had
not been in the mind of Bbit to record. As Boit attended
Captain Gray in this landing party he would have been enough
impressed with the ceremony, had it taken place, to have made
a record of it.
In historical literature this voyage has been celebrated as
an event initiating a new tum of events politically that was
consummated in the establishment of the jurisdiction of the
United States over the main portion of the Columbia river
basin. This major outcome of this voyage, so far as yet
recognized, was an incident or by-product with regard to the
purpose contemplated with it. The enterprise of the company
of Boston merchants was rather in direct line of evolution of
New England's main interests of shipping and cod and whale
fisheries during the 18th century. It is quite easy to believe
that in line with increasing international interdependence in
trade and cooperation for the best utilization of the earth's
resources for human purposes this second voyage of the Co
lumbia may in time to come have larger meaning as an achieve
ment in the evolution of trade than as an exploit of discovery
laying the basis for national territorial expansion. These fur
trading ventures to the northwest coast of America were the
natural expansion of the New England activities in cod fisheries
on the banks of New Foundland and in the whale fisheries in
the wSouth Sea. These were the mainstay of New England
prosperity. On an Act placing an embargo on these fisheries
and restricting the trade they involved did Parliament in 1775
rely "to starve New England." This intent brought forth the
following glowing tribute from Edmund Burke to the daring
exploits of the ^\merican whalemen which would have been as
well deserved by the fur traders on their more extended voy-

264 John Boit
ages in their quite as dangerous experiences with the treacher
ous native tribes :
"And pray. Sir, what in the world is equal to it? [Referring
to "the spirit by which that enterprising employment had been
exercised"] Pass by the other parts, and look at the manner in
which the people of New England have of late carried on the
whale fishery. Whilst we follow them among the tumbling
mountains of ice, and behold them penetrating into the deepest
frozen recesses of Hudson's Bay and Davis's Straits, whilst
we are looking for them beneath the arctic circle, we hear
that they have pierced into the opposite region of polar cold,
that they are at the antipodes, engaged under the frozen
serpent of the south. Falklands Island, which seemed too
remote and romantic an object for the grasp of national ambi
tion, is but a stage, and resting-place in the progress of their
victorious industry. . . . No sea but what is vexed by their
fisheries. No climate that is not witness to their toils. Neither
the perseverance of Holland, nor the activity of France, nor
the dexterous and firm sagacity of English enterprise, ever
carried this most perilous mode of hard industry to the extent
to which it has been pushed by this recent people; a people
who are still, as it were in the gristle, and not yet hardened
into the bone of manhood."
This spirit of enterprise which the Columbia's voyages so
signally exemplify has been in eclipse as to this honor it had be
cause of the momentous project of political or territorial ex
pansion it enkindled. When all nationalities have become
equally democratic and equally enamored with the mission of
human welfare it may be possible that this spirit of human
enterprise animating these voyages, now largely unnoticed,
may outshine the nationalism that has heretofore enveloped
them.
F. G. YOUNG.

Log of the Columbia 265
Reprint of
BOIT'S LOG OF THE COLUMBIA, 1790-1793.
[Annotations by Judge F, W, Howay and Mr, T, C. Elliott]
Remarks on the Ship Columbia's
voyage from Boston, (on a Voyage round
the Globe).
By John Boit
N. B. The dates etc. is by Nautical Ac
count {Not Civili).
The Ship Columbia was fitted out for a four years cruize, on
a trading voyage to the N. W. Coast of America, China etc —
about 250 tons burthen, mounted 12 Carriage Guns, and navi
gated with 50 men (including Officers) — own'd chiefly by
Sam'l Brown, Joseph Barrell and Crowell Hatch Esq'rs, and
Commanded by Robert Gray. Cargo consisted of Blue Cloth,
Copper and Iron.
1790, September 28. Latt. of Boston 42° 25' N. ; Long. 70°
31' W. from London. Left Boston Sept. 28th, 1790, with the
wind from the western board, and the next day pass'd Cape
Cod. Oh the 30th the wind having chang'd to the East'd and
blowing heavy, obliged us to bear away, and we anchor'd the
same evening, in Herring Cove, on the west side Cape Cod, in
15 fm. muddy bottom, but not liking our situation, Ve got
under way the following morning, and anchor'd the same
evening in Nantasket Roads, in 7 fm. Blowing weather, from
the eastern board.
October 2. Wind at SW. Weigh'd and came to sail, stood
to sea. On the 3d pass'd Cape Cod, at 3 leagues distance.
Generally blowing hard, with squalls of rain.
8. N. Latt. 40° 30' ; W. Long. 55° 43' ; Alzi. 14° 35' W. O. (T.
Ship sails dull, but is a fine seaboat. Crew appears to be a
set of fine fellows.
10. N. Latt. 39° 58' ; W. Long. 52° 38' ; Amp'd 14° 38' W.i
Weather more pleasant, winds generally from SW.

T The Century Dictionary defines the amplitude compass as an azimuth com
pass whose zeros of ^ graduation are at ^the east and west points, to facilitate the
reading of the amplitudes of the celestial bodies. "Amplitude. . .differs from the
azimu^ merely in being counted from the east and west points, instead of from
north and south." U. K. S. Nat. Phil., HI, XIIL— W. C. F. (Worthington C.
Ford).

266 John Boit
16. N. Latt. 35° 37'; W. Long. 37° 31'; Azi. 14° 35' W.2
Weather generally pleasant, winds from the NE.
18. N. Latt. 34° 33' ; W. Long. 31° 40' ; Amp'd 14° 22' W.
Fair weather, wind from NW.
22. N. Latt. 28° 46'; W. Long, 24° 37' Azi. 14° 54' W.
Pleasant weather. Crew all well.
23. N. Latt. 26° 41'; W. Long. 24° 16'; Azi. 14° 54' W.
Serene, pleasant weather. Winds from the North'd.
24. N. Latt. 24° 52' ; W. Long. 24° 10' ; Amp'd 14° 22' W.
Serene, pleasant weather. Winds from SE.
25. N. Latt. 24° 12'; W. Long. 24° 7'; Azi. 14° 26' W.
Serene, pleasant weather. Winds from SE.
27. N. Latt. 22° 0'; W. Long. 23° 0'; Azi. 14° 19' W. O. t
Pleasant weather, winds from the NW. Plenty of Dolphin and
Skip-jacks playing round us.
30. N. Latt. 20° ; W. Long 23° ; This day took the NE.
trade winds, after experiencing one day's calm {between the
variable and trades).
November I. N. Latt. 17° 16'; W. Long. 22° 30'; In the
course of this day, say the Island of Sal, (one of the Cape de
Verd Isles), 29 J4 days from Boston light house — (a long
passage). Pass'd it to the Eastward and bore away to the
South'd, high land. Crew are all in health, although the reg
ulation of the ship as respects cleanliness among them, is not
strict.
TOWARDS CAPE HORN.
4. N. Latt. 12° 15'; W. Long. 23° 6'; Azi. 13° 28' W.
This day lost the NE. trade winds, and immediately took the
wind from the Southward.
7. N. Latt. 9° 16'; W. Long. 22° 35'; Amp'd 11° 52' W.
Light variable winds, pleasant warm weather, attended at
times with sharp lightning.
9. N. Latt. 7° 21'; W. Long. 22° 13'. Squally weather,
with rain, with sharp lightning and heavy thunder, many water
 ; — •
2 "In the azimuth compass the circumference of the card is divided into
degrees and parts by a vermer, and is fitted up with sight-vanes to take ampli
tudes and azimuths, for the purpose of determining the variation of the compass
by observation. The variation is applied to the magnetic course shown hy the steer
ing compass and thus the true course with respect to the meridian becomes known."
Encyclopaedia Bntannica (gth ed.) VI 0225. — W. C. F.

Log of the Columbia 267
spouts in different directions. Experience very heavy squalls.
Winds all round the compass since losing the trades. Many
vessells in sight.
14. N. Latt. 5° 4'; W. Long. 22° 13'. Winds continue
very variable and squally. This day spoke two ships: one a
Portuguese from Lisbon bound to Rio Janeiro; the other an
English waleman from England, for the Brazil coast. The
Captain (by name Buller) was an American.
18. N. Latt. 3° 48'; W. Long. 23° 30'. This day Capt.
Buller left us, his ship sailing much faster than ours. Winds
and weather still remains very unsettled, with hard squalls,
carried away our Jib boom, and got a new one out. A constant
swell from the SE. Winds harp most at SSW.
19. N. Latt. 2° 41'; W. Long. 25° 42'; Azi. 11° 32'.
Weather pleasant. This day took the wind at SSE, which no
doubt is the commencement of the SE generall winds. The,
weather at this time is quite settled. Heretofore since leaving
the NE. trades, it has been very gloomy and dark. Have
noticed, since passing the Lattitude of 12° that the winds
generally have been from South to SSW. — at times squalls
from West.
21. N. Latt. 2° 38'; W. Long. 24° 48'; Azi. 10° 30' W.
A constant Current, setting to the Northward, irt these Lati
tudes; (two sail in sight.)
22. N. Latt. 2° 6' ; W. Long. 25° 2' ; Azi. 10° 13' W. Winds
holds from SBE. to SSE. and fair pleasant weather, with a
swell from the SE.
23. N. Latt. 1° 41'; W. Long. 25° 26'; Azi. 10° 7' W.
Winds and weather as before. Crew all well.
24. N. Latt. 1° 15'; W. Long. 26° 1'; Azi. 9° 28' W.
Winds at SSE. and quite moderate, weather pleasant.
25. W. Long. 26° 57' O. d. In the course of this day
cross'd the Equator. Wind at SEBS. and pleasant, serene,
temperate weather. Have fish of different kinds round most
of the time. Ship's crew are all in health.
54>^ days from Boston, 25 days from Isle of Sal, (long
passages). Keep all hands through the day in good weather,
employed in the various departments of the ship — ^it is best to
keep them moving. They are allowed tea or coffe, each mom-

268 John Boit
ing and in general the ship's fare is good, but proper attention
to airing their beds and cloathing and fumigating their berths is
not paid.
27. S. Latt. 2° 5'; W. Long. 28° 26'; Azi. 5° 50' W.
Pleasant, agreeable weather. Wind from SE to ESE. Plenty
of fish about us. Breezes moderate.
28. S. Latt. 3° 34'; W. Long. 29° 5'. Spoke a French
India ship, from L'Orient bound to Pondicherry, reckond
himself in Longitude 26° 50' W. of Paris. Caught a large
Albacore.^ Wind ESE. Pleasant weather.
29. S. Latt. 5° 12'; W. Long. 29° 22'; Amp'd 4° 59' W.
Winds from ESE., squally weather.
30. S. Latt. 7° 24'; W. Long. 30° 16'; Azi, 4° 51' W.
Fresh gales. Caught an Albacore that weighed 130 lb. Spoke
a Portuguese ship from Lisbon bound to Rio Janeiro.
31. S. Latt. 9° 31'; W. Long. 31° 9'; Moming Azi. 4° 8',
Evening, Azi. 3° 42'. A ship in sight. Pleasant weather with
fresh trade winds, from ESE. to SE.
December 3. S. Latt. 13° 30'; W. Long. 32° 26'; Azi.
1° 40' W. ; O. ^. This day lost the SE. general winds, and
immediately took it at NE. This Northly wind is no doubt
the Monsoon prevailing at this season along the Brazill coast.
Pleasant weather.
4. S. Latt. 14° 39' ; W. Long. 32° 40' ; Almp'd 0° 53' W.
Light breezes from NE. and very hot weather.
6. S. Latt. 17° 23'; W. Long. 33° 14'; azi. 1° 28' W. Mod
erate breezes and pleasant. Winds from NE. to ENE.
7. S. Latt. 18° 25'; W. Long. 33° 33'; Amp'd 0° 17' E.
Do winds and weather, and swell from NE.
9. S. Latt. 21° 52'; W. Long. 35° 43'; Azi. 1° 36' E.
Moderate monsoon, and fair weather.
10. S. Latt. 23° 55'; W. Long. 37° 4'; Azi. 2° 34' E.
Lively breeze and pleasant temperate weather.
11. S. Latt. 25° 0'; W. Long. 38° 44' O d. This day a
heavy squall struck the ship, carried away the top gall't masts
and yards, topsail yards, and fore, and mizen, topmasts; lost
the top gall't sails and damaged the topsails.

3 A large species of Tunny (Thynnus). — W. C. F.

Log of the Columbia 269
13. S. Latt. 27° 11'; W. Long. 39° 18'; Azi. 5° 15' E. In
the course of this day got ship to rights again. Winds some
times hauls to the southward of East. Crew all in health.
14. S. Latt. 27° 50'; W. Long. 40° 5'; Amp'd 8° S' E.
Wind at SE., moderate breeze, large swell from SW.
16. S. Latt. 30° 26'; W. Long. 42° 59'; A'zi. and Amp'd
8° 28' E. Wind at NE. and weather pleasant.
.18. S. Latt. 32° 52'; W. Long. 45° 39'; Azi. 9° C E. O 1
This day the NE. winds left us, and come at NW., fresh
breeze and cloudy hazy weather.
21. S. Latt. 33° 56'; W. Long. 48° 34'; Azi. 11° 32' E.
Saw an Albatross, many other kinds flying about the ship.
Large sea from SE.
22. S. Latt. 34° 33'; W. Long. 48° 15'; Azi. 11° 38' E.
^ <[. This day a heavy gale of wind from the SE. Lay too.
Saw a turtle. A high sea.
25. S. Latt. 36° 57'; W. Long. 46° 23'; Azi. 11° 36' E.
Cool weather. Since the NE. winds left they have generally
prevailed from the Southward, and blow'd fresh.
26. S. Latt. 37° 37'; W. Long. 47° 20'. Sounded, no
bottom, 150 fm. line out the water discolour'd.
27. S. Latt. 39° 7' ; W. Long. 49° 58'. Discolor'd water.
Sounded no bottom at 150 fm.
29. S. Latt. 41° 6'; W. Long. 53° 28'; Azi. 17° 25' E.
Discolor'd water, no bottom at 120 fm. lowr'd a whale boat,
and struck a black fish but lost him. The iron drew.
30. S. Latt. 41° 53'; W. Long. 54° 4'; Azi. 17° 54' E.
Cold weather. Winds from SW.
31. S. Latt. 42° 46'; W. Long. 53° 45'; Azi. 17° 54' E.
Fresh gales. Caught 16 Albatross's, with a hook and line from
the stem, hook'd them in the bill. Ships crew are all in
health. So ends the year 1790.
MADE THE BRAZIL COAST OR PATIGONIA.
1791. January 6. S. Latt. 48° 0'; W. Long. 54° 0';
Amp'd 21° 2' E. Generally fresh gales, and winds mostly
from the Southward. Have caught many albatrosses within

270 John Boit
these few days past, and seen plenty of Finback and right
whales. Experience a current setting to the Southward.
7. S. Latt. 47° 43'; W. Long. 54° 40'; Amp'd 20° 10' E.
Fresh gales and pleasant cool weather.
10. S. Latt. 46° 28' ; W. Long. 58° 22'. Winds from the
southward. Sounded, no ground, with 120 fm. line. Saw
seals and whales. Water much discolour'd.
13. \S. Latt. 45° 2'; W. Long. 61° 14'; OCA whale
come so near as to strike the ship with his flukes and gave
considerable of a blow. Got bottom, with 53 fm. line, fine
black sand, with a few white specks.
14. S. Latt. 46° 0'; W. Long. 62° 0'. Wind from NW.
Soundings 50 fm., fine black sand.
15. S. Latt. 45° 31'; W. Long. 63° 54'; Azi. 22° 0' E.
Winds from the Southward. Soundings 45 fm., soft mud with
sand. 17. S. Latt. 46° 48' ; W. Long. 66° 58'. Fresh gales, under
double reef'd topsails, with a high sea. At noon 35 fm. mud,
wind NE. Saw the land to the Westward of Cape Blanco on
the Coast of Patigonia, bearing from SSE. to SW. Very
squally, haul'd our wind to the Eastward, find the ship embayed
with the wind, on shore. Stood on within 2 miles of the
beach, and cou'd not weather the land on our larboard tack;
we were under the necessity of wearing ship to the Westward,
at this time had 12 fm. grey sand. Our situation was very
critical, as we cannot weather the land on either tack. Bent
cables, and overhaul'd a range of each of them, pass'd several
times over very shoal water but did not sound, for fear of
intimidating the crew. Ship'd many seas, one of which stove
the Binnacle and broke the Compasses. Wore ship several
times as the wind favour'd. This land appear'd levell, without
much wood and very high grass growing. Saw several smokes,
but none of the Natives The shore was lined with white sand
banks. Fortunately at midnight the wind moderated, and
haul'd more of shore. Haul'd off into 20 fm. and stood along
shore ; given the Cape a good berth.
18. S. Latt. 47° 9'; W. Long. 66° 38'; Azi. 21° 36' E.
Saw breakers a head, haul'd to the East'd. Cape Blanco bpre

Log of the Columbia 271
S. 65° W., 4 leagues. Sounded and had but 5 fm. water;
deepened gradually, in 25 fm. pebble or gravell stones. This
shoal was not laid down in the Drafts. I judge it to be very
small.
AT THE FALKLAND ISLANDS.
19. S. Latt. 48° 37'; W. Long. 66° 8'. Winds from the
SW. 56 fm. water, weather pleasant but cold. Many Albatross
and large scholes of Whales.
22. S. Latt. 51° 53'; W. Long. 64° O 1 Wind at NW.
and squally. Made the Islands of Sebald-De Wert,* (or Jasons
Islands) which lie off the NW. part of the Group call'd Falk
land. Vast many birds and seals round. Made sail to the
South'd for States Bay, in New Island (one of the Falkland).
At 6 A. M. saw Cape Percivall, SBE. 10 leagues. Fresh gales.
At Meridian anchord, in New Island harbour. Mud and sand
in 5 fm. Remain'd in this Harbour 11 days, during which
time we give the ship a complete overhaul. We had the winds
generally from the westward, and sometimes blew so strong
that we drag'd with 5 anchors a head. A tent was erected on
shore, for the Tradesmen. Found the watering place very
handy, and the water excellent. The ship's crew on our arrival
was all in health. Still no doubt, by being frequently indulg'd
on shore, was of great service to them. The weather generally
was very cool. During our stay at these Island[s] we shot
upwards of 1000 Ducks and Geese, and 6 Hogs {which was
evidently of the Spanish breed). The fowl was quite tame
when we first arriv'd, but they soon was taught the doctrine
of self-preservation. The Swine was very wild.
The face of the Country does not present a very delightful
prospect, extensive heaths, mountains, and ponds of water are
to be seen all over the Island. There is not a tree upon it, but
the grass is 3 feet high in most places. The turf generally of
the height of 6 foot, between which the Hogs and Penguins
have their habitations.^ The soil appear'd to me to be proper
for the reception of such seeds as contribute towards the sub-
Tsebald de Weert, who circumnavigated the globe in 1598-99 in the ship
het Geloof, the sole surviving vessel of the fleet of five commanded by Jacques
Mahu and 'Simon de Cordes. — 'W. C. F.
5 Hoskins describes the mode of huntmg these hogs. "The party being ashore.

272 John Boit
stenance of inhabitants. The wild Cellery, which is an ex
cellent antiscorbutic grows here in abundance.
I think these Islands are most proper to touch at, when
bound round Cape Horn in preference to those in Straits La
Maire^ as. the water is handy, and you may keep your People on
Geese and Ducks while you remain.
IN THE PACIFIC OCEAN AFTER PASSING STATEN
LAND AND CAPE HORN.
February 3. S. Latt. 51° 47'; W. Long. 66° 10'; Amp'd
25° 7' E. Wind from the Southward and pleasant weather.
Left the Falkland Isles last evening. This day spoke the Ship
Bedford, Laben Coffin, Master, from Dunkirk (in France)
bound to the Pacific Ocean, on a whaling voyage.^ Took a
departure from Cape Percivall at 6 P. M., it being the west
ward extreme of the Falkland, lying in Latt. 51° 50' South,
and Longitude 66° West of London. Light airs, and a swell
from the Southward. Vast many marine birds flying round.
5. S. Latt. 53° 54'; W. Long. 69° 36'; Amp'd 25° 1' E.
Moderate breezes and pleasant. Saw Staten Land* bearing
South 14 leagues distant, a Current setting to the Eastward.
6. S. Latt. 54° 52'; W. Long. 68° 13'. Pleasant weather.
St. Bartholomews on Staten Land, bore SWBW.
7. S. Latt. 55° 24'; W. Long. 68° 1'; Amp'd 25° 16' E.
Winds light and from the Westward, a Constant Current set
ting to the Eastward. Staten Land in sight, bearing WNW.

six would enter at one end of those tufts of grass armed, walking through them
with a hue and cry; while two would walk on each side and two stationed at each
end, ready to shoot the hog as soon as he should run out; by this means we were
able to kill seven hogs and catch one nig alive."
6 Named after Jacob le Maire, who circumnavigated the world in 1615-1617. —
W. C. F.
Annotations by Judge F. W. Howay, except on entries made when the Columbia
was south of the Straits of Juan de Fuca. For this part of her cruise annota
tions are by Mr. T. C. Elliott. The annotations by Worthington C. Ford,
editor Proceedings Massachusetts National Society, retained, are indicated by
Mr. Ford's initials, W. C. F.
7 Ingraham in the preceding January had met in much the same locality the
French whaler Necker from Dunkirk, Captain John Haives. He explains; "This
ship was sailed under French papers and colours, yet she was an America-built
sllip likewise the Captain all his officers & most of his men were Americans but
tlie great encouragement given by the French government to Americans to settle
in France and fit out ships in the whaling service has induced many of our
countrymen to emigrate yet I believe the major part of them have no idea of
remaining among the French longer than they by their industry obtain a suffi
ciency to enable them to live comfortably in their own country."
8 I. de los Estados.— W. C. F.

Log of the Columbia 273
20 leagues distant, very high and unequal land, with snow on
the mountains.
12. S. Latt. 58° 0'; W. Long. 76° 15'; Azi. 24° 36' E.
Weather still holds pleasant, but very cold. Winds generally
from the Eastward.
17. S. Latt. 60° 1'; W. Long. 82° 8'; Azi. 24° 30' E.
Winds since the 12th has been much from the Westward and
blowd excessive fiery, with high seas. This day's Latitude
is the highest South during the passage.
23. S. Latt. 57° 36'; W. Long. 84° 42'. A Seal playing
round the ship. (Light winds.)
27. S. Latt. 54° 44'; W. Long. 86° 24'; Azi. 23° 52' E.
Cape Hom is doubled. Winds light from the west'd with
frequent calms.
March 13. S. Latt. 43° 9'; W. Long. 88° 55'; Amp'd 15°
54' E. Since 27th Feb'y winds have prevailed generally from
the Westward, with moderate breezes and pleasant weather.
19. S. Latt. 40° 32'; W. Long. 88° 20'; Azi. 14° 28' E.
Light winds and pleasant.
21. S. Latt. 37° 43'; W. Long. 88° 7'; Azi. 14° 44' E.
Very pleasant weather. Some of the Crew have the Scurvy
in the Gums.
24. S. Latt. 36° 56'; W. Long. 89° 7'; Azi. 13° 20' E.
Light winds from NW. and frequent Calms.
26. S. Latt. 34° 35'; W. Long. 88° 41'; Azi. 12° 51' E.;
Amp'd 12° 35' E.; 2d Azi. 12° 47' E. Very pleasant, and
temperate light airs.
31. S. Latt. 30° 0' ; W. Long. 89° 28'. Winds still from the
westward with pleasant weather. Ship's Crew are in health.
PASSAGE FROM CAPE HORN TO THE NW. COAST.
April 2. S. Latt. 27° 17'; W. Long. 89° 38'; Azi. 11° 50'
E. O (f. This day took the SE. trades, and experienced a
swell from the Northward. Weather very pleasant.
4. S. Latt. 24° 59'; W. Long. 93° 0'; Azi. 11° 34' E.
Swell from the Southward.
6. S. Latt. 22° 38'; W. Long. 96° 12'; Aizi. 10° 14' E.
Steady trades and fair. Blackfish and Porpoises.
8. S. Latt. 20° 56'; W. Long. 98° 19'; Azi. 10° 26' E.
Very pleasant, with smooth sea, winds to the North of East.

274 John Boit
9. S. Latt. 20° 32'; W. Long. 98° 55'; Azi. 9° 59' E.
Small winds.
10. S. Latt. 19° 41'; W. Long. 99° 56'; Azi. 9° 50' E.
Small winds.
11. S. Latt. 18° 50'; W. Long. 100° 29'; Amp'd 9° 12' E.
Small winds. Wind at ESE. Ship's Crew is many of them
complaining. 12. S. Latt. 17° 57'; W. Long. 101° 24'; Azi. 9° 16' E.
A little Scurvy among the Crew.
15. S. Latt. 14° 9'; W. Long. 105° 28'; Azi. 9° 0' E.
Lively trade winds and pleasant serene breeze, with smooth
water. 16. S. Latt. 12° 36'; W. Long. 106° 54'; Azi. 7° 50' E.
Do. Do.
22. S. Latt. 5° 37'; W. Long. 113° 39'; Azi. 6° 44' E.
Amp'd 6° 32' E. Saw a Turtle.
23. S. Latt. 4° 37'; W. Long. 114° 39' O <L. Between the
hours of 3 and 4 P. M. Departed this life our dear friend
Nancy the Goat having been the Captain's companion on a
former voyage round the Globe, but her spirited disposition
for adventure led her to undertake a second voyage of Cir
cumnavigation ; But the various changes of Climate, and sudden
transition from the Polar Colds, to the tropical heats of the
Torrid zone, prov'd too much for a constitution naturally deli
cate. At 5 P. M. Committed her body to the deep. She was
lamented by those who got a share of her Milk!.'^ Men of
War Birds and Porpoises round.
26. S. Latt. 1° 59'; W. Long. 117° 23'; Azi. 6° 0' E.;
Amp'd 5° 34' E. Pleasant weather. Saw a Turtle. Many
Barracota and Dolphin round the ship.
28. S. Latt. 0° 50'; W. Long. 118° 35'; Azi. and Amp'd
5° 30' E. Caught a shark; porpoises about the ship. Excessive
warm. 29. S. Latt. 0° 5'; W. Long. 119° 13'; Azi. and Amp'd
5° 18' E. O d. Gentle trades at ESE and pleasant. Four

9 Hoskins records this incident: ' On the 23d having some rice up to air,
our best she goat got at it, eat so much that it swel'd her belly and caused her
death; this was the more grievous as it depriv'd us of the greatest delicacy we
had in tlie Ship, her milk, which made our tea so much the more palatable."

Log of the Columbia 275
seamen laid by, with the Scurvey, their mouths and legs are
very bad.^°
30. Both by Meridian and Double Altitudes N. Latt. 0° SO' ;
W. Long. 119° 59'; Azi. 5° 15' E. Porpoises and Bonnetto
round together with Tropic Birds and Boobies.
May 2. N. Latt. 3° 26'; W. Long. 121° 45'; Azi. 6° 28' E.
Sharks round, and Boobies. This day took the NE trade wind.
3. N. Latt. 4° 38'; W. Long. 122° 42'; Azi. 6° 52' E.
Squally weather porpoises round and many birds, on the wing.
8. N. Latt. 12° 34' ; W. Long. 128° 5' ; Fresh trade winds.
Saw a turtle.
13. N. Latt. 20° 7'; W. Long. 132° 44'; Azi. 9° 1' E.
Fresh trade winds. Porpoi.ses round. Weather pleasant.
15. N. Latt. 23° 9'; W. Long. 132° 33'; Azi. 9° 47' E.
Steady trade winds and verj' pleasant. Scurvy making progress.
AT ANCHOR IN COX'S HARBOUR OR CLIOQUOT ON
THE NW. COAST.
17. N. Latt. 25° 35'; W. Long. 133° 43'; Azi. 9° 45' E.
Fresh trade winds and generally pleasant weather.
19. N. Latt. 27° 38'; W. Long. 134° 15'; Azi. 10° 41'.
Do. Do. 7 Men off duty with the scurvy, their Gums is quite
putrid, and legs as big round as their bodies and quite numb,
(the worst of Complaints ! !).
24. N. Latt. 34° 9'; W. Long. 135° 33'; Amp'd 12° 20' E.
This day lost the NE trades, and immediately took the wind
from the westward.
31. N. Latt. 46° 47'; W. Long. 125° 50'; Azi. 17° 20' E.
Have had generally fresh breezes and cool weather since 24th
with the winds generally from SW. Many birds round, among
the rest some that look'd like Plovers. 6 People extreme bad,
with the scurvy.
/mw 4. N. Latt. 49° 10'; W. Long. 120° 21'. This day
made the land, on the NW. Coast of the American Conti-

lo Strangely enough, Hoskins makes no mention of the appearance of the
scurvy until 20th, May, when he records "the scurvy began to make its appear
ance on one of the people." Eight aays later he adds that "six of our people (are)
confin'd with the scurvy."

276 John Boit
nent between Nootka" (or King George's Sound) and Cliquot^^
(or Coxes harbour). For these severail days past we had
seen whales, drift wood, feathers, kelp, etc. All signs of its
vicinity. Breakers pt.^^ bore NEBE 8 leagues, high land back,
and snow perceivable on some of the mountains. Wind from
Southward. 5. N. Latt. 49° 5'; Correct W. Long. 125° 26' O 1 This
day anchor in Coxes harbourji"* and found it very commodious.
This Harbour is made remarkable by three remarkable round
Hills,^^ abreast its entrance. Hannah,^^ Chief of the village
Ahhousett,^' came on board and appeared friendly. Above 300
of the Natives was alongside in the course of the day. Their
canoes was made from the body of a tree, with stem, and stern,
pieces, neatly fixed on. Their models was not unlike our Nan
tucket whale boats. The dress of these Indians was either the
Skin of some Animal, or else a Blankett of their own manu
factory, made of some kind of Hair.^^ This garment was
slung over the right shoulder. They all appear'd very friendly,
brought us plenty of fish and greens. We tarry'd in this

II This sound is situated in latitude 49° 32' north, longitude 126° 35' west.
By general consent its discovery is attributed to Captain James Cook, who spent
some weeks there in March and April, 1778; though it is now known that the
Spaniards had seen land near its entrance in August, 1774. Captain Cook first
named it King George's Sound, hut later changed it to Nootka, believing that
to be the native name. Cook's Third Voyage, vol. 2, p. 288, 4to. ed. 1785. As
to the probable origin of the name, see Walbran's Place Names, p. 359. During
the early years of the maritime fur trade it was of considerable commercial
importance; the seizure of Meares' vessels and the threatened war between Britain
and Spain made it, in 1790, world-known.
12 Clayoquot Sound is about fifty miles to the southward of Nootka. It com
prises a number of inlets covering an area of about thirty miles in length and
sixteen in breadth. The Port Cox of Meares was near the entrance to this
sound, probably on the east side of Stubbs Island.
13 Now Estevan Point, the southern entrance of Hope Bay, as Cook called
the water between it and Woody Point, now Cape Cook; Nootka Sound is one
of its inlets. It was in this vicinity that the Spaniards, in the Santiago, under
Juan Perez, anchored on 8th August, 1774.
14 Named by Meares in 1788 after John Henry Cox of Canton, who is frequently
referred to in the acrimonious discussion that went on between Meares and Dixon
after the appearance of the former's Voyages. See a sketch of it in Meares
Voyages, 4to. ed. p. 202.
15 These are well known landmarks today. They are on Meares Island; the
highest is called Lone Peak.
16 This was Chief Cleaskinah, who exchanged names with Captain Hanna of the
Sea Otter in 1786. Meares met him in June, 1788, and describes him as "about
forty and carried in his looks all the exterior marks of pleasantry and good
humour." Meares Voyages 4to. ed. p. 136. Gray had met him in March, 1789.
Haswell in his first Log says he 'seemed a very inteUigent old fellow." The cus
tom of exchanging names as a token of friendship was prevalent on this coast
and is mentioned by Meares, Roquefeuil and many others.
i7Ahousat, an Indian village, now on Flores Island in Clayoquot Sound;
but at this time the tribe were still living at their original home on Vargas Island
in the same sound, from which they had an uninterrupted view of the ocean.
This old village site, now abandoned, was called Ahous, and thus gives its name to
18 The celebrated dogs' hair blankets of the Coast Salish. For a discussion of
this subject, see Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. ix, pp. 83-92.

Log of the Columbia 277
harbour till the 16th June, landed the sick, immediately on our
arrival and pitch'd a tent for their reception, and although
there was ten of them in the last stage of Scurvy, still they
soon recover'd, upon smelling the turf, and eating greens of
various kinds. We buried severail of our sick, up to the Hips,
in the earth, and let them remain for hours in that situation.
Found this method of great service. The principali village
in this harbour is called Opitsatah,^^ and is governed by
Wickananish,20 a warlike Chief. He and his family visited us
often. The Indians brought severail Deer, and plenty of Rock
Cod, Salmon, and other fish. Wild parsley, and a root call'd
Isau or Isop,^i by the natives and much resembling a small
onion, was brought us in abundance. We purchas'd many of
the Sea Otter skins in exchange for Copper,^^ and blue Cloth.
These Indians are of a large size, and somewhat corpulent.
The Men wear no other covering, but the garment before men
tioned, and seem to have no sense of shame, as they appear in
a state of Nature. The Women stand in great fear of the
Males,23 but appear to be naturally very modest. Their gar
ment is manufactured from the bark of a tree and is well
executed, being so constructed as to cover them complete from
the Neck to the Ancle. Both Male and Female wear Hats
of a conicle form made out of strong reeds. ^'' On them is
painted, (in a rude manner) their mode of Whale fishery.
ig An Indian village on the southwest side of Meares Island in Clayoquot
Sound. It is shown on Meares' map of Port Cox (4to. ed. p. 202), heing the
northerly one of the two villages there shown. Today it is known officially as
Opitsat; hut is generally spoken of as Clayoquot Indian village. Father Brabant
spells it Opissat.
20 This chief, whose name is spelled by the early voyagers_ in a variety of
ways, figures in almost every account of these expeditions. He is the first chief
that Haswell mentions, as having been met the Washington was cruising north
ward on 1st September, 1788. He came on board, says Haswell, "completely
while dressed in a genteel sute of Cloths which he said Captain Mears had given
him." 21 Haswell calls this plant a leek.
22 On his first voyage Gray had found copper much in demand; he had evi
dently profited by his experience. Luckily for him the variable taste of the
natives, of which the traders all complain, had not changed in the interval. Copper
was almost sterling amongst them; but they were whimsical as to the thickness of
23 Exactly the reverse conditions prevailed in Queen Charlotte Islands, as both
Ingraham and Haswell inform us. , , , ^ , , „, . ,
24 For a complete description of these cedar bark garments, see Cook s Third
Voyage, 4to. ed. vol. 2, p. 304. In the folio atlas accompanying this edition
of Cook's Voyage will be found a picture showing these garments and also the
hats.

278 John Boit
Attoo,^^ the Captain's servant (and a native of the Sandwich
Isle) ran away, among the Indians. A chief coming on board,
plac'd a guard over him, and sent his Canoe back to the village
with the news. They soon retum'd with Mr. Attoo, and
ransom'd their Chief.^^
17. This day weigh'd the anchors and left Coxe's harbour.
Fine weather, wind at SW. All hands once again on duty.
Make the people use Spruce Tea,^^ boil'd from the Boughs
we took on board, for that purpose and although not very
palatable, I believe is an excellent Antiscorbutic. Bound along
shore to the North and West. Saw woody point bearing ESE
3 or 4 leagues.
AT ANCHOR IN COLUMBIA'S COVE AND JUAN
DE FUCA STRAITS
20. N. Latt. 50° 6' ; W. Long. 128° 12'. Moderate breezes.
At 8 P. M. abreast Woody point,^^ lay'd off and on through the
night. At daylight made sail, for Chickleset sound,^^ out
Pinnace, and sent her ahead of the ship to sound. At 8 A. M.
abreast the entrance of the sound. Hove to. At 10 the pinnace
made the signall for an harbour. Bore away, wind at NW.
At Meridian anchor'd in a small Cove, (which we named

25 This boy had been taken from the Sandwich Islands by Captain Gray on his
first voyage, just as Cook took Omai frora Otaheite and Meares took Tianna from
Attoo. E. G. Porter in his article on the Ship Columbia and the Discovery of
the Oregon in the New England Magazine for June, 1892, says on page 478 that
Attoo was a "young chief (sometimes called the crown-prince)." In any event
he was flogged for this attempted desertion. See further, as regards him, the
entries under dates i8th January, 1792, and 2nd November, 1732.
26 In Hoskins' Narrative will be found the details of this incident, including
the deception by which the Chief, Tootiscoosettle, the eldest brother of Wickanan-
ish, was induced to come on board, and thereafter held until Attoo was brought
back. Some of the subsequent difficulties may possibly be connected with this
event. . . . _, . ^
27 This was a recognized anti-scorbutic. This decoction must have been very
nasty; it was originally prepared, "brewed," some of the voyagers call it, from the
trees themselves. For reference to it, see Meares' Voyages, Introduction, 4to. ed. p.
xx; Cook's Third Voyage, 4to. ed., vol. 2, p. 273; vol. 3, p. 331; Dixon's Voyage,
p. 151; Portlock's Voyage, pp. 215, 217, 231, etc., and many other authorities.
28 Now Cape Cook, the most westerly point of Vancouver Island, and the
northern entrance to Hope Bay. It was so named by Captain Cook in 1778,
but was changed, in honour of the great navigator, to Cape Cook by Captain
George H. Richards, H. M. surveying vessel Plumper, in i860. Walbran's Place
Names, _p. 107.
29 This sound was well known, especially to the American traders. It is
evidently Nesparte Inlet, north of Kyoquot Sound, and of which Woody Point
(Cape Cook) is the entrance. Haswell, in his first Log, states that it lay about
two leagues west of "Caoquot" (Kyoquot) ; Hoskins mentions "Catioquot" (Kyo
quot) as being in its vicinity; in Haswell's second Log is a chart of the sound,
which corresponds generally with Nesparte Inlet; Hoskins' description of its
surroundings fits this sound exactly; and finally in the map in the Report of the
Royal Commission on Indian Affairs, igifi, vol. 4, p. 850, Nesparte Inlet is marked
"Chickleset"

Log of the Columbia 279
Columbias).^'' In this situation we was completely land lock'd.
Vast many natives alongside. They appear'd much the same
as those at Coxs harbour and talk'd their language. We laid
in this harbour till the 26th, during which time got many Sea
Otter and land furs, from the Natives, in exchange for Copper,
Iron and Cloth, (with Beads, fish Hooks and such small stuff
kept the Ship supplied with various kinds of fish and greens,
with a few deer). These Natives was generally arm'd with
Bows, arrows, and spears. Like those at Clioquot they would
pilfer whenever an opportunity offer'd. Their Women were
more Chaste than those we had lately left. But still they were
not all Dianas. During our tarry here I visited one of the
villages in the sound, found the Natives busily employ'd build
ing Canoes, and packing provisions against the ensuing Winter.
They treated me quite friendly. They dry their fish in the
Sun, and then pack it in neat wooden boxes.^^ SW" Necessity
is the mother of invention.
26. This day left Columbia's Cove, and stood along shore
towards the Straits of Juan De Fuca. Crew all well. Steering
to the South and East'd. This is an Iron bound Coast, with
high land back.
27. This day pass'd Clioquot, with a fine breeze from WNW
and pleasant.
28. N. Latt. 48° 42'; W. Long. 124° 0'. Enter'd the
Straits of Juan De Fuca and hove to abreast the Village of
Nittenatt,^^ found strong tides. Vast many Natives off, with
Sea Otter and other Furs, which we purchas'd with the same
articles as before. 'T was evident that these Natives had
been visited by that scourge of mankind the Smallpox.^^ The

30 It would appear that this cove is that now known as Quin-e-ex, on Nesparte
Inlet. It is on the southeast side of Brooks Peninsula, a few miles from Cape
Cook The Indian village, Opswis, mentioned by Hoskins, is opposite this cove
and is now called "Opsowis." See further hereon the above map and Report, pp.
3^1 For a description of these boxes, see Cook's Third Voyage, vol. 2, p. 316.
A picture of one will be seen in the view of the interior of a house a*- Nootka
Sound, contained in the accompanying_ atlas .,.,...... , „o , .1.
32 Nitinat. "Nittenat, says Hoskins, hes in the latitude of 48 40 north,
longitude 124° 06' west; it has no harbor or any other shelter before it; and is
only rendered remarkable by a large cataract or waterfall a few miles to the
northward of it." Probably this is Clo-oose, the head village of the tribe, which
lies about a mile eastward from the discharge of Nitinat Lake.
5 5 Portlock in his Voyage, p. 271, heard of great ravages of this disease
amongst the Tlingit, and beheved that it was introduced hy the Spaniards in 1775,
and worked its way down the coast.

280 John Boit
Spaniards, as the natives say, brought it among them. These
Indians appear'd friendly.
N. Latt. 48° 23' ; W. Long. 124° 0' O « * «. Kept beating
about the entrance of De Fuca Straits till 3d July, on SE. parts
(off a small Isle) call'd Tatooch,^'* we collected many Otters.
These natives gave the preference to Copper. Fine Halibut and
Salmon was procured in abundance. Nails, Beads, etc. serv'd
for this traffic. This Chief at Tatooch's Isle offer'd to sell
us some young Children they had taken in war.^^
July 3. N. Latt. 49° 1' ; W. Long. 126° 20'. Left the Straits.
At 6 P. M. Cape Flattery^^ (so named by Capt. Cook) bore
SEBE 8 leagues. Standing along shore to the Westward, wind
from the East'd.
4. Took the wind from the Westward, employ'd beating to
windward the land about 12 leagues. Many Whales.
AT ANCHOR IN BARRELL'S SOUND, IN QUEEN
CHARLOTTE ISLES
8. N. Latt. 52° 10'; W. Long 131° 12'. This day anchor'd
in Barrells sound^^ on the SE. part of the Queen Charlotte
Isles, 20 fathom, rocky bottom. Sent the Pinnace, with an
officer, to seek better anchorage, which was soon found. Got
under way and stood up sound, and anchor'd in 15 fathom
muddy bottom. A Chief by name Coyac,^^ came along side,
with plenty of other Indians. The Natives here are much
stouter than any we had before seen, and appear to be very
savage. The Men go quite naked, except a skin over the

34 Tatoosh Island, off Cape Flattery; named in 1^88 by Meares, after Tatooch,
by the Spaniards called Tetaous, the Chief of the vicinity. See also note 186 post.
35 In ,the same locality in March, 1789, Haswell records that the natives "offered
their own manufactured blankets which weir realy curious and children for sale."
Captain Peron alleges in his Memoires that, in 1796, "Apres une assez longue
negociation, Makouina (Maquinna) nous le (i e. a child of six years of age)
vendit, moyennant trois brasses de drap bleu." See vol. 2, p. 2. Other instances
are recorded. 36 Named by Captain Cook on 22nd March, 1778, because its appearance
"flattered us with the hopes of finding an harbour." See vol. 2, p. 263.
37 Haswell, writing under date nth June, 1789, says: "this sound was hon
oured with the name of Barrel Sound in honour of our owner." Joseph Barreil
was really the principal of the six co-owners of the Columbia and the Washington.
It is now called Houston Stewart Channel; it separates Moresby Island from
Prevost Island. Dixon, who was on the coast in command of the Queen Char
lotte in 1787, named it Ibbertson's Sound.
38 Haswell calls him Coya ; Hoskins calls him Coyah. The latter says that
Coyah, whom Gray had met in 1789, did not come near the ship until a little
after sunset, when most of the natives had left; that he told them Captain
Barnard (Bamett) had got all their skins and asked Gray to wait for a few days
for a fresh supply.

Log of the Columbia 281
shoulder. The Women are entirely cover'd, with Garments
of their own manufactory, from the bark of tree.^' They
appear to carry full sway over the men"*" and have an incision
cut through the under lip, which they spread out with a piece
of wood, about the size and shape of a goose egg (some much
larger). It's considered as an ornament, but in my opinion
looks very gastly. Some of them booms out two inches from
the chin.-'i The women appear very fond of their offspring,
and the Men of both. We remain'd in this sound till the 17th.
During which time we purchas'd a good lot of Sea Otter and
other furs chiefly for Iron and Cloth. Copper was not in
demand. The boats were sent frequently after wood and water,
but were always well arm'd. The Natives supplied us with
plenty of Halibut and Rock Cod, for which we paid them in
Nails. Wild fowl was plenty in this Sound, of which we
caught and kill'd many. I landed at one of their villages, found
the Indians comfortably lodg'd, and kept large fires, although
the weather was temperate. When I went into one of their
houses they was eating roast muscles and singing a warlike
Song. They appear'd fond of our visit and never offer'd to
molest any thing in the boat. Their canoes are not made near
so neat as those we had seen before, but I think was more
commodious. The females was not very chaste, but their lip
pieces was enough to disgust any civilized being. However
some of the Crew was quite partial.

39 The cedar — the blessed tree of the Northwest Coast.
40 Both Hoskins Narrative and Ingraham's Journal are to the same effect
and both give examples of this sway. See also Vancouver's Voyatre, 4to. ed.,
vol. 2, p. 409, and Portlock's Voyage, p. 290.
41 This is the labret, or, as it is called amongst the Haida, the natives of
Queen cfharlotte Islands, the stale, which has excited the curiosity and derision
of all the visitors to those islands from the time of Perez downward. Dixon
gives a description and a picture of one, which was three and seven-eighths inches
long and two and five-eighths inches in the widest part; it was inlaid with a
small pearly shell, round which was a rim of copper. See Dixon's Voyage, p. 208.
The custom was not confined to the Haida; it extended from Yukatat Bay to the
boundaries of the Kwakiutl. Sir George Simpson in his Narrative of his Joumey
round the World, vol. I, p. 204. records having met instances of its use at Fort
McLoughlin, amongst the Bella Bella Indians. Father Crespi, who accompanied
Juan Perez in 1774, gives the first account of this strange adornment. "They
(the women) wear pendant from the lower lip, which is pierced, a disk painted
in colors which appeared to be of wood, slight and curved, which makes them
seem very ugly, and, at a little distance they appear as if the tongue was hanging
out of the raouth. Easily, and with only a movement of the lip, they raise it so
that it covers the raouth and part of the nose. Those of our people who saw them
frora a short distance said that a hole was pierced in the lower lip and the disk
hung therefrora. We do no know the object of this; whether it be done to raake
themselves ugly, as sorae think, or for the purpose of ornament." Publications
of the Historical Society of Southern California, vol. 2, p. 192.

282 John Boit
IN THE STRAITS OF ADMIRAL DEFONT«
17. Weigh'd and left Barrells sound, bound to the Straits
of Admiral De Font,''^ which is formed by the Charlotte Isles
and the Main.
18. N. Latt. 51 : 34'. Wind from Westward and pleasant,
beating to and fro, off the South pt. of Charlotte Isles, en
deavouring to get into the Straits.
'23. N. Latt. 52° 26'; W. Long. 131° 30'; Azi. 20° 22' E.
Spoke the Brig Hope,** Joseph Ingrahim master from Boston,
on the same business with ourselves. Soon parted.
24. N. Latt. 53° 6'. A small Isle, in the Straits bore North
at Meridian, which we named Hatches.*^ Weather is gen
erally clear, so that the Jsles and Main are distinctly seen
together. Found ground at 120 fm. The Natives wou'd often
come along side from the Main, or Isles, as we border'd on
either shore, and brought furs and plenty of Halibut, which
you cou'd buy for a board Nail apiece.
28. N. Latt. 53° 14'; W. Long. 132° 0'; Azi. 21° 35' E.
Ship over towards the Main. Send an officer'** in the pinnace
42 In terms of modern geography the Columbia now leaves Houston Stewart
Channel, sails west into the iPacific Ocean, rounds Cape St. James, the southem
point of Queen Charlotte Islands, proceeds up Hecate Strait, which lies between
these islands and the mainland of British Colurabia, keeping generally to the
mainland side, and turning to the westward follows along the northern shores
of Dixon Entrance, the strait separating Queen Charlotte Islands frora Alaska.
43 'The story of this fictitious voyage of Adrairal Bartholomew De Fonte will
be found in Bancroft's History of the Northwest Coast, vol. I, pp. 115-118. For
a full discussion, see Navarrete's Viajes y Descubrimientos Apocrifos, pp. 134-161.
Haswell, Hoskins, Ingraham and Boit all believed in the existence of his fabled
strait, which by an' involved series of lakes and rivers conected with the Atlantic
Ocean. The stretch of water, called De Font's Strait by Boit is Hecate Strait.
See also hereon, Vancouver's discussion of the voyage in Vancouver's Voyage,
vol. 6, pp. 8 vo. ed. 1801.
44 "The Hope was a brig which left Boston a few days before the departure of
the Columbia in 1790, under the command of Joseph Ingraham, who had been
first officer on the Columbia on her first voyage. Ingraham left an account of
both his voyages; but that of the first voyage has disappeared; and the second
one is not complete, the entries ending abruptly after the Hope left the coast in
the fall of 1792. His charts today are all the information that exists relative
to some parts of the west coast of Queen Charlotte Islands. The account of this
meeting of the two Boston vessels is also given by Hoskins, who was on the
Columbia, and hy Ingraham. Hoskins says: "During the night we had light airs
and pleasant weather heard the cutting of wood at a distance which sounded as
if on a vessel's deck when the lanhorns were ordered to be hoisted at four the
next morning (the 23d) the south extreme of the land bore south by 'east six
leagues distance at half past five saw a sail to the northward which by her signals we
soon discovered to be the Hope of Boston Joseph Ingraham^ commander when at
a short distance he welcomed us with three cheers which was iraraediately
returned the Hope hove to under our lee when the jolly boat was sent for Captain
Ingraham who came on board." Ingraham's version is not reproduced, as Pro
fessor E. S. Meany has appended it in a note to this journal, which will be
found in the Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. xii, p. 12.
45 Named after Charles Hatch, one of the owners of the Columbia. It is
now called Bonilla Island in Hecate Strait, four miles from Banks Island. It is
two miles long and one mile broad; rises to a height of 530 feet; and is an
excellent landmark.
46 Robert Haswell, the Chief Officer of the ship.

Log of the Columbia 283
in search of anchorage. Found the land hereabouts low and
barren near the shore, but rises back into high mountains. Find
excessive strong currents in these Straits. The Natives on
the Main speak a language differenf*' from those on the
Islands. Boat returned without success.
30. N. Latt. 52° 47'; W. Long. 131° Ol Fresh gales and
stormy weather. At Meridian Charlotte Isles extended from
SBW to WBN 8 or 10 leagues. Some Canoes full of Indians
boarded us from the Isles. They inform'd us that severail
English vessels'** had visited not long since. We purchased
a good lot of furs, chiefly for Iron and Cloth.
31. Stood towards the Islands, and anchored in 24 fm.
with a Kedge. Light wind from NW. A Chief (by name
Cumswah)*^ brought us several fine Sea Otter skins.
August 1. Wind from SE. Standing along the Queen
Charlotte Isles, through De Font straits, about 3 or 4 leagues
from land, soundings generally from 15 to 25 fm. mud. The
main land in sight to the North and West'd at a great dis
tance.^" 2. Fresh gales and very thick weather. Narrowly escaped
mnning on a reef of rocks. Quite foggy and see the land but
seldom, beating to and fro. Wind from the Eastward.
3. N. Latt. 54° 43' ; W. Long. 132° 23'. Heavy gales from
SE. and thick weather, found the Ship embay'd,'" employ'd
making short hanks. At length we being too nigh the shore
for to keep off, through the night, we was alarm'd with all the
horrors of a lee shore. A small opening appearing in the land
to leeward, hove out the pinnace and sent an officer to examine
for anchorage. At 6 in the evening she made a signal for a

47 The observations of the American officers in regard to language are always
correct. The natives of Queen Charlotte Islands are of the Haida race; while
on the mainland opposite they are Tsimshean. ,, ,. . , ¦ .i.-
48 So far as can be discovered there were hut two Enghsh vessels in this
vicinity in 1791, the Grace, Captain William Douglas, and the Gustavus, Captain
Thomas Bamett. , , . ^ , tt ^ .,.
40 The recognized form of the narae is Cumshewa. He was one of the
prmcipal raen of these islands. His head village was on the northern side of
Curashewa Inlet, on the east coast. The place of this anchorage cannot be iden
tified, but it was probably near Skedans on the south s.de of Curashewa Inlet or
near Cumshewa's village on the north side. . , , , ,
so Hecate Strait in (his locality is about forty miles^ wide; the land to the
northward would be, perhaps, seventy miles distant, bemg that lymg between
Prince of Wales Island and the mainland in Southern Alaska. u ^ . .,
SI The Columbia, driven by gale and current, and m the fog, had entered
Clarence Strait. See hereon more fully the "Supplementary Note on the Identi
fication of Port Tempest and Massacre Cove," found at the close of the Joumal,
pages 350-1 ¦

284 John Boit
Harbour. Bore away and anchored under a point of land, in
17 fm. sandy bottom, let go three anchors, it being a wild
road stead. We remain'd in this station, which we call'd Port
Tempest^^ till the 8th and only four Indians made their ap
pearance, and I believe there was no villages'^ in the vicinity.
Made severail excursions, with boats, and procur'd many Sal
mon and plenty of Berries. In one of these excursions I
discover'd a small rivulet,^* not deep enough to admit the boat.
In it we caught upwards of 100 fine salmon, chiefly with the
boat hook and grainz, and shot a deer upon the banks. Crew
all in health.
8. Got under way and left Port Tempest (situated on the
main land of America ),^^ stood over for land in sight to the
North'd and westward, and as we approach'd it severail Canoes
came off, with furs and halibut.
10. N. Latt. 55° 0'; W. Long. 133° 0'. Light winds and
pleasant, standing to the NW. and 6 P. M. came to with the
Kedge 28 fm. Port Tempest bearing NEBN. 12 leagues. The
Natives brought us plenty of fine Otter furs. Their Canoes are
the same as at Charlotte Isles, some of them capable of carry
ing 30 men. They go well arm'd, with bows, arrows and spears,
and appear to be a savage race. I went in the Cutter — well
arm'd — to a small cove, not far distant from the Ship, and soon
caught 9 large Halibut. The Ship was concealed by a point
of land, making out from the NE. part of the Cove.
12. Still laying at anchor in same situation as on the 10th,
the nearest land not above j4 mile distant, and the point of
the Cove I was fishing in on 10 inst. about }i mile. Mr. Caswell
this morning took a Boatswain Mate and one Seaman with

52 This is identified as being near Point Higgins, at the westem entrance of
Revillagigedo Channel (otherwise Tongass Narrows), which separates Revillagi.
gedo Island from the Gravina Group of Islands. The reasons which support this
suggested identification are so lengthy that it has been thought better to include
them in a "Supplementary Note on the Identification of Port Tempest and Massa
cre Cove," found at the close of the Journal, pages 350-1.
S3 Hoskins, however, mentions two, Sushin and Cahta. Sorae inhabitants of
the forraer were actually on board. The ship was striving to reach Sushin when
she anchored near Massacre Cove. The villages were of the Kaigani Haida; the
journalist raay be referring to villages of the Tlingit; if so, the nearest, according
to Vancouver, who was there in August, 1793, was at Point Whaley, perhaps
fifty miles distant.
54 The unnamed creek which empties into Ward Cove in Revillagigedo C3iannel.
See supplementary note hereto.
SS Until Vancouver circumnavigated Revillagigedo Island in August, 1793,
it was thought to be part of the mainland. Port Tempest was near Point Higgins,
the westerly point of that island.

Log of the Columbia 285
him in the Jolly Bloat, by the permission of Capt. Gray, and
went to the Cove a fishing. A breeze springing up soon after,
and wishing to leave this place, a six pounder was fird, a signal
for the boat to retum. She not appearing, soon after two
more Cannon was fir'd. Got the Ship under way and stood
off and on, and sent the pinnace under charge of the 4th
officer^fi in search of the small boat. Soon after we see the
Pinnace retuming with the Jolly Boat in tow, without any
person in her and soon discover'd they had the Boats Colours
hoisted half mast. With this melancholy token they approach'd
the Ship, when we soon discover'd our worthy friend, and
brother officer, Mr. Joshua Caswell (2d) lay dead in the bottom
of the boat, strip'd perfectly naked and stab'd in upwards of
twenty places. They saw nothing of John Folger (the boat
swains mate) but Joseph Barnes (the Sailor) lay
dead on the beach, and quite naked. Fearing the Natives lay
in am,bush, they did not land to take of the CorpsP It is
probable they were beset upon by a great superiority of natives,
prompted by a desire to possess their cloaths and arms. As
soon as the boats return'd made sail for Port Tempest, and
anchor'd in the evening, at our former station. In Mr. Caswell
I lost a firm and steady friend. He was a man of mild and
gentle temper, a complete Seaman, and in short was possest
of every qualification that bespoke the gentleman.^s Observ'd
that the day previous to this disastrous affair few Indians had
visited the Ship.
NW. END OF CHARLOTTE ISLES?
13. N. Latt. 54° 43' ; W. Long. 132° 23'.^'^ Cahn, and tem-

S6 Mr. Waters, as appears by the entry of 24th March, 1792, post.
57 The account in Hoskins adds nothing to these facts; tnat In Ingraham
is very brief and, necessarily, hearsay. .-,,,-.,,„
58 Hoskins adds the following facts in reference to Mr. Caswell. He was
about twenty-six years of age; was born in Maiden, four miles from Boston; had
followed the sea frora boyhood; served in the War of Independence; was taken
nrisoner early in that war; after peace was declared re-entered the merchant
service and rose to the rank of captain; but, being interested in discovery, was
content to take the position of second mate on this expedition. ' He was," adds
Hoskins "a reputable good seaman of a most happy serene placid disposition m
most ca'ses too passive he was loved and beloved by all who knew him he was
an honest man which Pope says 'is tne noblest work of God'."
« After obtaining the body of Mr. Caswell the Columbia returns to the
western end of Revillagigedo Channel, sails thence to the north shore of Queen
Charlotte Islands and enters Masset Harbour. _ „ „
60 This latitude and longitude have no relation either to Port Tempest or
Massacre Cove- they are given by Haswell as the position of Murderers Cape,
which llv at the westem entrance of Brown's Sound, in which Port Tempest
situated. That is Cape Chacon of today. Its latitude is the well known

was
54° 40'

286 John Boit
perate weather. At 8 in the morning the 4th Officer was
dispatch'd with a party well arm'd in the Pinnace, for to dig
a grave for our worthy friend. At 9 the pinnace return'd.
At 10 left the Ship with three boats, under charge of Mr.
Hazwell, 1st Officer, with the corps, the Ship firing minute
guns. At 11 Capt. Gray landed in a small boat, and after
performing divine service, we inter'd the remains of our de
parted, and much beloved, friend, with all the solemnity we was
capable of.
The place was gloomy, and nothing was to be heard but the
bustling of an aged oak, whose lofty branches hung wavering
o'er the grave, together with the meandering brook, the Cries
of the Eagle, and the weeping of his friends added solemnity
to the scene. So ends.^^
15. Weighed, and left Port Tempest, wind at NW. At
sunset it bore NBW. 6 leagues, and (Massacre Cove)*^ West 5
Miles. Saw none of the Natives. No doubt the Rascles wou'd
have destroy'd the Jolly boat after they had massacred our
unfortunate countrymen, had not the Ship's guns alarm'd them.
Standing to the South and E.
16. This day spoke the Brig Hancock^^ of Boston, Samuel
Crowell, Master. They was on the same business as ourselves,
and had been pretty successful.^'* Capt. Crowell inform'd that

6i when Haswell returned to the spot in the Adventure on 2nd June, 1792,
he found that "the natives had dug the corpse of Mr. Caswell up, and by the
appearance it raust have been done soon after burial."
62 This, it is suggested, was situate on the eastern side of Prince of Wales
Island between Cholmondeley Sound and Skowl Bay. No data are given in any
of tiie narratives whereby to distinguish it frora any of the other coves in the
vicinity. Perhaps Indian tradition may later be brought forward to identify
the exact spot. See the supplementary note hereto for further discussion of this
subj ect. 63 This vessel had evidently been trading for a raonth in the vicinity, for
Ingrahara had learned of her presence on i6th July, while he was in Parry
Passage (Cox Strait). On that date he says, "Cow inform'd us he saw a vessell
to the Eastward with 2 masts on which 1 sent a boat with an Officer accom
panied by Cow to view her after a short absence the boat return'd and inform'd
It was a Brig standing to the Eastward this vessel I afterwards found was the
Hancock Cap Croel from Boston N A." Hoskins states that she had arrived
on 14th July, having left Boston in the beginning of November, 1790. She had
stopped for supplies at St. Salvador, a Portuguese settlement on the coast of
Brazil, and had^also stayed sorae tirae at Staten Island, killing seals and obtaining
wood and water. She had called at Mas afuera for water and at Owhyhee for
fresh provisions. The natives there had determined to capture her, but Tianna
(well known to all readers of Meares) had informed the captain of their intention
and had urged him to sail at once, as he haj promised his people that if the
brig remained there on the following day they were at liberty to carry the
project into effect.
64 Tlie Hancock had obtained between five hundred and six hundred sea otter
skins; the Columbia had about as rainy. See Washington Historical Quarterly,
vol. xi, p. '?• Haswell says she had seven hundred sea otter skins.

Log of the Columbia 287
his Longboat was cruizing among the Charlotte Isles, under
charge of his 2nd Officer.^^ The Brig kept us company.
18. Pleasant weather. Came to anchor, in a River, which
Capt. Crowell had named Hancocks,^^ situated on the NW
part of the Queen Charlotte Isles, in company with the Brig,
6 fm. water, mud. The Brig's Longboat we found at this place,
vast many of the Natives along side the Ship, and a few furs
was purchased. Capt. Crowell had, upon some trifling offence,
fir'd upon these Indians, by which a number of them fell, (such
wanton cruelty throws him upon a levell with the savage), and
perhaps this same fray was the means of our losing our worthy
2nd Officer as the places are not 20 leagues distant and mayhap
they reek'd their Vengeance*'' upon us, thinking us all of one
tribe. If it was so, bad luck to Crowell. Amen.
AT ANCHOR IN CLIOQUOT HARBOR
19. N. Latt. 54° 12' ; W. Long. 132° 25'. Fine weather.
The Hancock saild on a Cruize.*^ The land about this River,
is the best without exception I've yet seen, on the NW. Coast,
and a place well calculated for a Factory for to reap the ad
vantages of the fur trade. The Natives, I dare say, have always
plenty of Otters, and there is fish in abundance. Hove up,*'
and came to sail towards evening and stood to sea, light winds
and very strong tides. At sunsett Murderers Cape bore NNW.
at a great distance.
20. N. Latt. 53° 49^; W. Long. 133° 24'. Soundings from
7 to 12 fmi., shoal water about these parts of Charlotte Isles.
Standing to the Southward through Defont straits, mnning

65 The frame of the longboat had been brought out in the brig from Boston
and put together somewhere on the coast of Queen Charlotte Islands. It had
been rigged as a sloop and placed in charge of Mr. Adamson, fornierly in Meares'
employment on the Iphigenia. ,. t i .. t ti ii. j t -h t
66 This so-called river is now Masset Inlet. In Haswell s second Log will be
found a sketch of it, on which the river-like portion is marked Mahsheet. He gives
its position as 54° 5' north latitude and 132° 13' weSt longitude. This is nearly
™"^' 67 The greater probability is that, as in the cases of Quadra, Barkley, and the
Atahualpa, it arose from mere cupidity; the implements, clothing and the nails in
the boat were sufficient temptation. „ , ,^ .... ^, ., » m j .. • t>
68 Before doing so Captain Crowell left with the natives at Tadents in Parry
Passaee (Cox Strait) a man named Jones, who was to collect furs against his
return; but he soon tired of the life there, went to Kaigani, and shipped away
at the first opportunity. This expedient was frequently tried by the traders;
the result was always the same. , , , , j. ^ n
6g The reason for the Columbia's sudden departure was, according to Hos
kins, to forestaU tiie Hancock in the trade on the eastern side of Queen Charlotte
Islands.

288 John Boit
along the Isles in from 15 to 30 fm. according to distance off
shore, these Chariotte Isles are from the Latt. 51° 55' to 54° 24'
N. and from Longitude 131° 0' to 133° W.
22. N. Latt. 53° 2'; W. Long. 131° 31'; Amp'd 20° 2' E.
O 1. Many of Indians of this day from Cumswah village,
in Charlcot Isles, brought a few skins, but I think they are
pretty well drain' d.^° Came to, with the Kedge in 20 fm. about
2 miles from shore. Soon after see a Boat rowing towards us,
and heard a Cannon fir'd in the sound. At 3 P. M. Mr. Cruft,'i
1st Officer of the American Brig Hope (which we had spoke
with before) came along side, with Capt. Ingrahim's compli
ments, and offer'd to be the bearer of Letters, as he was shortly
bound for Canton/^ We readily embraced the opportunity.
At dark Mr. Cruft left us. Up Kedge and bore away to the
southward and East'd.
23. N. Latt. 52° 37'; W. Long. 130° 22'. The SE. part of
Charlotte Isles bore SE^E. 12 leagues, light winds ^id vari
able. A Canoe boarded us, at this great distance, and brought
many prime furs.
28. N. Latt. 49° 20' ; W. Long. 127° 16'. At Noon this day,
Nootka (or King Georges sound) bore ENE. 10 leagues. Since
the 23d we have never lost sight of the Continent. 'T is very
high land. Saw whales.
29. N. Latt. 49° 5' ; W. Long. 126° 0'. At Noon the en
trance of Clioquot (or Coxes harbour) bore NE 4 leagues.
Standing in for the harbour, and towards evening anchor'd in
our former station, vast many of the Natives along side, and
seem'd glad to see us again. Found riding here the Brig Lady

70 Ingraham in the Hope had been lying at anchor, trading continuously with
these natives, for over a fortnight.
71 This officer died shortly afterwards while the Hope was en route to the
Sandwich Islands. Ingraham gives his name as Crafts. Proper names appear
to have been spelled, as Sam Weiler said, according to the taste and fancy of
the speller; this renders identification difficult in many cases. Ingraham was
returning good for evil; the owners of. the Columbia, he tells us, being "filled with
envy and malice against all who went to share with them this valuable trade gave
orders that no Letters should be borne out in their ship to any one on board
the Hope." Thus, though Ingraham got his letters through the instrumentality
of Haswell, who smuggled them through, poor Crafts' letters were refused and
came out on the Hancock, , with the result that he never received them, having
died before the two vessels met at the Sandwich Islands.
72 Ingraham's voyage had been remarkably successful, so far as obtaining
furs was concerned. This result was obtained partly through his invention of
the iron collars and partly through his policy of remaining in one place so long
as furs continued to be offered for barter, instead of flitting from place to place
as the other vessels did. See a retumi*' on his voyage in Washington Historical
Quarterly, vol. xi, pp. 3-a8.

Log of the Columbia 289
Washington," of Boston, John Kendrick, master. He had
made up his Voyage and was bound for Canton. He appear'd
happy in meeting with his old friends.
N. Latt. 49° 9'; W. Long. 125° O <L ^ <L. Captain Ken
drick inform'd us that he had had a skirmish, with the Natives
at Barrells sound in Queen Qiarlotte Isles, and was oblig'd
to kill upwards of 50 of them before they wou'd desist from
the attack. It appeai-'d to me, from what I cou'd collect that
the Indians was the aggressors. '"^ This Brig Lady Washington
was a Sloop when she left Boston, but Capt. Kendrick had
alterd her rig in Canton the year before. I was sorry to find
that Kendrick had made no remittances, to the owners, since
he had parted with the Columbia the first voyage, although
since that period he had made two successful trips'^ fj-om this
Coast to Canton. As the Vessells still belong'd to tbe same
owners he was under some mistrust that Capt. Gray was
empower'd to seize the Brig,''* and kept himself always ready
against attack.^^ We tarried in this harbour till the 8th Sept.,
73 The consort of the Columbia on the voyage 1787-1790. She was at anchor
in Larks Bay when on 12th February, 1790, the Columbia passed down the Tigris
on her return to Boston. In the interval the latter had raade the voyage to
New England and back, whilst the former had occupied the same time in dis
posing of her furs, altering her rig from a sloop to a brig, or more likely a
brigantine,, and returning to the coast. The Washington, as she is usually called,
had reached Queen Charlotte Islands on 13th June from China, via Japan; the
Columbia had arrived at Clayoquot Sound eight days before, from Boston.
74 Ingraham gives the outlines of the story ; but Hoskins, Captain Kendrick's
friend, enters into all the details. Sumraarized the story is that in the fall of
1789, while at Houston Stewart Channel, some clothing was stolen from the
Washington. Kendrick seized the two chiefs and, fastening thera to a cannon,
threatened to kill them if the stolen articles were not forthcoming. The greater
part were returned: the remainder he made them pay for in skins, and finally he
forced the natives as a condition of releasing the Chiefs to bring all their furs,
which he took and paid for at_ the current rate._ He then gave the Chiefs their
liberty and sailed away. He did not return until June, 1791, but soon after his
arrival, and after trading had gone on as usual, the natives gathered on the ship
in large numbers, took possession of the arm chest, and drove the crew below.
Kendrick reraained on deck, Coyah, one of the Chiefs, taunting him and daring
him to tie him to the cannon again. The natives, all armed, only waited the signal
to begin a massacre. Coyah and Kendrick got into a scuffle, and at this time
the crew returned with arms and, led by Kendrick, who had freed himself from
his assailant, cleared the vessel's deck. The Indians retreated precipitately on
seeing the firearms; and even the exhortations of a perfect Amazon could not
re-forra them for attack. The small arms and the cannon were discharged at the
fleeing Indians and when they were out of range they were pursued by the armed
boats. 75 The journalist is in error here. Kendrick in the Washington did not see
the Northwest coast from his departure in the fall of 1789 until 13th June, 1791.
76 Hoskins, in a letter to Joseph Barrell, dated August 21, 1792, says: "Capt.
Kendrick when I saw him the last season (referring to the occasion now in nota
tion) offer'd to give up to me (if I would pay his men's wages & a debt he had
contracted in Macao of about 4000 dollars) his vessel and cargo which was a
thousand sea otter skins. I told him I had no authority to accept his offer or
to demand any payment frora him nor did I think any person in the ship hid."
77 This is an exaggeration ; both Hoskins' Narrative and Haswell's Log
show that the two ships were on the best of terms, mutual visits were exchanged,
and the fullest confidence prevailed.

290 John Boit
during which time collected many Sea Otter and other furs,
and fish in abundance. These Natives miss'd Mr. Caswell, and
it was thought proper to inform them that he had died a
natural death.
September 8. Weighed and beat out of the harbour, wind
at SW. At Noon Clioquot bore NW. 6 leagues standing
toward Juan De Fuca straits.
IN THE STRAITS OF JUAN DE FUCA
11. N. Latt. 48° 15'; W. Long. 124° 30'. This day abreast
Cape Flattery, on the SE. part of De Fuca entrance, vast many
of the Natives along. Purchas'd many Otters. These Indians
told us, there was five sail of Spaniards up the straits.^* At
Midnight saw Tatoosh Isle, bearing NNE. 3 miles. Thought
ourselves further off shore. Almost calm, and an excessive
strong tide sweeping us between some ledges and the Isle.
At daylight thick fog, saw the Rocks a head, within pistol
shot, with high breakers. Out all Boats, and just towed the
.Ship clear. Our situation was truly alarming, but we had no
business so near the land in thick weather. However Good
Luck prevail'd and a breeze springing up from offshore we
stretch'd out clear in Boats. Foggy disagreeable weather.
Cou'd observe at intervals that the woods were on fire.^'
12. Wind NE. Heard the roaring of Breakers, foggy,
haul'd more off shore. At 3 P. M. saw a rock about a stone's
throw distant, and narrowly escaped being dash'd upon it —
damn nonsense to keep beating about among rocks, in foggy
weather. At midnight heard the surf roar again, which I
suppose to be on the North side of the Straits, sounded and
found ground at 25 fm. Rocks. The Captain, at length, was

78 At present these cannot be identified. Navarrete says in Viajes y Descu
brimientos Apocrifos, pp. 113-121, that Elisa, who was exploring the strait that
year, returned in August; and in any event, according to this author, had only two
ships, though Bancroft thinks it possible there may have been three. See Ban.
croft s History of the Northwest Coast, vol. I, p. 244 et seq.
79 Haswell says: "The weather became so hazy we could see scarcely 4 miles.
The weather was not damp, hut appeared like an intensely thick smoke." Hoskins
gives the following account: "At noon it was cloudy with exceeding sultry weather
the wind blowing in puffs off the land and fetching so hot a streara that many of
our people insisted on it that they were burnt. The higher you were aloft the
greater was the degree of heat this is I conceived to be occasioned by some back
woods the natives _ must have been setting fire to, though there was no smoke
seen to warrant this opinion."

Log of the Columbia 291
frightened,*" and proceeded with the Ship to a good offing
(this ought to have been done long before), thick foggy
weather, with a moderate breeze.
16. N. Latt. 48° 14'; W. Long. 124° 30' d *. Fog clear'd
off, saw Cape Flattery bearing NNE. 2 leagues. Very strong
tides. At Noon we were about 2 miles from Tatooch Isle.
Came to with tlie Kedge, sandy bottom, the Island bearing
North. I think it possible there is a passage between Cape
Flattery and this Isle of Tatooch; it appears about 2 miles
wide. However cou'd see breakers between them and currents
are excessive strong, as we cou'd discern them to foam in
that narrow pass. Many Natives came off, and we purchas'd
a few skins and plenty Halibut. Weigh'd and came to sail
towards evening, bound to Clioquot.
AT ANCHOR IN CLIOQUOT HARBOUR
18. N. Latt. 49° 9'; W. Long. 125° 26' This day anchor'd
in our Old Station^i in Clioquot harbour, found the Brig Lady
Washington still riding here.*^ At this Harbour Captain Gray
had determin'd to winter, if he cou'd find a suitable place, for
to build a Sloop of 45 Tons, for to assist in collecting furs,
on the next season. The stem and stern post, with part of
the floor timbers had been brought from Boston for this pur
pose. 19. On the 19th Capt. Gray went with two boats up the
sound, for to seek a convenient cove. In the evening the
Captain return'd, having found a place to his mind, about 4
leagues*^ from where the Ship lay.
WINTER QUARTERS, LATT. 49°9' N ; LONG. 125°30' W.
20. On the 20th weigh'd, with light airs, and with the Boats
ahead, assisted by the Brig's Crew, we tow'd, and sail'd, into
8o Both Haswell and Hoskins give this awful experience in somewhat greater
detail and unite in blaraing Captain Gray for his stubbornness in refusing to
seek an offing. Hoskins asserts that at times they could not see a hundred
yards ahead; and for two days the Columbia was tacking backwards and forwards
across the strait with its strong tides "having the surf on one side and the
breakers on the other to give us warning when to go about." .
8 1 In Port Cox, see ante, note 14- The latitude given is correct; the lati
tudes are usually nearly right but tbe longitudes are always too rar east; the
longitude here should be 125° 58'. . , . , „ ^ j .. •,
82 Kendrick's movements appear quite leisurely. Gray can get ready to sail
for China in three days; see entries in this journal Sept. 50, 1792, et seq; but it
takes Kendrick nearly a month. Haswell says that on their return Kendrick was
not much nearer ready than when they had left, ten days before. _
83 This is an exaggeration. Hoskins is nearer correct; he says eight miles

292 John Boit
winter quarters, which we call'd Adventure Cove,*'* and moor'd
Ship f6r the winter. Vast many of the Natives along side,
and appear'd to be highly pleas'd with the Idea of our tarrying
among them through the Cold Season. The Columbia lay
moor'd in this Cove till the 25th of March, 1792. I shall en
deavour to give the heads of our proceedings during that period.
Adventure Cove was situated in about the Latitude of 49° 15'
N. and Longitude 125° 30' W. of London, about 17 miles from
the Ocean. This Cove was form'd by an Isle and the SE.
shore Clioquot sound — ^so small, that when the Ship was moor'd,
you might throw a stone upon the beach in any direction, the
passage in was not to exceed 100 feet, so that we was in a
complete bason. (At 25th inst. Capt. Kendrick sail'd for Can-
ton.^^) The Adventure was set up at the back of a fine beach,
the woods being previously clear'd. A Log House** was
erected near, mounted with two Cannon, with Loop holes for
Musketry. Here Capt. Haswell, with a party of Seamen, and
all the Mechanics was station'd. Near it, the Blacksmiths and
Boat Builders Shops were plac'd; two Saw pitts was erected,
and kept constantly at play, sawing planks, and was supplied
with Logs from the sound, by Boats constantly on that duty.
So that Adventure Cove soon had the appearance of a young
ship yard. Strip'd the Ship to a gritline, and kept a gang
under the directions of the Boatswaiin upon the rigging.

from the anchoring place (Port Cox) and fifteen miles from the sea. According
to Haswell, it was intended to winter at Naspatee (Nesparte Inlet, Columbia's
Cove), but the wind was adverse, and as the fall was approaching it was con
cluded to find some suitable spot in Clayoquot Sound.
84 It is difficult to identify this cove with certainty, principally because
none of the writers, Boit, Haswell, nor Hoskins agreed upon its distance from any
one place; and again, it was such a sraall cove that the Columbia was moored
with cables to the trees on either side, and thus situate was completely landlocked.
Hoskins says also that the Indians called it Clickslecutsee; all efforts to trace
this name in the nomenclature of today have, up to the present, been unsuccessful.
It is clear that Adventure Cove was on the eastern side of Disappointment Sound,
Meares Island, for Hoskins records that when tbe Columbia lay in the harbour
(Port Cox of Meares) the flag staff of Opitsitah bore north northwest. Harbor
Island (Stubbs Island) south one half west, and Fort Defiance (Adventure Cove)
east by north. Dr. C. F. Newcombe of Victoria has kindly fumished rae with the
following note, which supports the above statement: "The Indians of Clayoquot
Sound told me that the Americans built their first ship on the southeast point of
the entrance to Disappointment Sound in Meares Island, just opposite the present
village of Ojjitsat, which was already in existence."
85 Captain Kendrick appears to have made this voyage with more celerity than
he usually showed. He left Clayoquot on 25th September, 1791, and was at the
Sandwich Islands on 27th October, as appears from Vancouver's Voyage (vol. I,
p. 383, ed. 8vo. 1801). There he left some raen to collect sandal wood and
pearls. He sailed for China and, according to Ingraham, arrived in Larks Bay,
near Macao, on 7th December; a good quick passage.
86 Kendrick had called his house Fort Washington ; Gray named his Fort
Defiance.

Log OF THE Columbia 293
The Natives made us frequent visits, and brought a good
supply of fish and some Sea Otter Skins, and by keeping a
small boat down sound, with 4 of our Seamen we procured a
constant supply of wild Geese, Ducks and Teal. The Geese
and Teal resembled those at home, but the Ducks were exactly
of the same Species, with the tame of our Country.*' We see
none of any other kind. Now and then we shot a wild turkey. ^^
The Natives appear'd to be highly pleased with the different
works going on at the Cove. They sometimes brought us
Venison and supplied us with as many boards as we wanted.
They was all caeder, and appear'd to have been split with
wedges, from the Log. '
October 7. An alarm was given by the Gentry at the Block
house, that there was Canoes in the Cove. Finding they was
discover'd they soon went off.*'
13. The frame of the Sloop was up complete, and this day
brought the Garboard streak of Plank to her bottom. This is
what I call dispatch. Wickananish, high Chief, came on board,
with severail of the Royal family. He inform'd that his winter
village'" was a great way off, which occasion'd his visiting us
so seldom. He went on shore, and astonishment was conspicu
ous in his countenance at the work going on there. The
Natives was very much puzzled to know how we shou'd get
the Sloop off when finish'd, as she was 75 foot back from high
water mark. Wickananish is the most powerful chief'i we
87 The mallard which is the parent of our ordinary tame duck.
88 As there were no wild turkeys in that region. Professor Meany has
suggested that it may have been a large grouse. Mr. F. Kermode, the Curator of
the Provincial Museum of British Columbia, however, thinks that it was a sand
hill crane. He points out that some persons to his knowledge have mistaken it
for a wild turkey. Haswell records, under date of 23rd May, 1792, that at
Portland Canal he "had the good fortune to shoot a turkey."
89 Haswell gives a totally different version. "But wonderful to tell," he
says, "these mighty war equipped savages tumed out to be none other than some
rocks, which the tide ebbing low had left dry." He adds that he did not chide
the sentinels for their error, preferring that they should report the least suspicious
thing. 90 Haswell in his first Log says: "Their winter village Oakakinah (is) far
up a fresh water river where they have plenty of salmon." Hoskins calls it
Okerrainnah. It was so far, the Indians told hira, frorn Adventure Cove that it
took thera tlie' greater part of two days to paddle the distance. It was likely on
the Bear River, which flows into Bedwell Sound, and is the village which was
attacked by Maquinna while Jewitt was a captive. See Jewitt's Adventures, 168
et seq, Edinburgh 1824.
91 The first white person to see Wickananish has fortunately left us a manu
script account of him. She says: "A day or two after sailing from King George's
Sound we visited a large sound in latitude 49 .20 north, which Captain Barkley
naraed Wickananish's Sound, the name given it being that of a chief who seemed
to be quite as powerful a potentate as Maquilla at King George's Sound. Wick
ananish has great authority and this part of the coast proved a rich harvest of
furs for us." This is an extract from Mrs. Barkley's diary which is in the
Archives of British Columbia. This was in 1787.

294 John Boit
have yet seen on this Coast. His tribe consists of upwards of
3000 souls. They allow Polygamy, but the women are not
prolific, as barrenness is very common among them. The
Indians girls kept us well supplied with Berries of different
kinds, which was very gratefull.
14. We was inform'd this day that Capt. Crowell, in the
Brig Hancock, was at Juan de Fuca straits.'^*
27. The Natives brought us some excellent Salmon. Experi
ence much rain, which hinders the work. When the weather is
too bad for to work on the Sloop, keep the Carpenters under
shelter making a boat for her. Heard of three Spanish ships'^
being at Nootka. Keep always upon our guard against surprize
as we are among a powerful sett. The boat after game, met
with some Indian^ that was a little troublesome, but by firing a
musket over their heads they soon went off. These Indians
was very enquisitive, for to know the cause of thunder and
lightning, but we cou'd not make them understand the real
cause, but much surprized them by saying there was a man in
our Country, that made both. They suppose thunder to be
occasioned by an Eagle carrying a Whale into the air, and
Lightning, the hissing of a Snake, which are exceeding large
in this country. One of our Seamen, being down sound a
gunning, saw one of these animals, which by his discription
was as big round as his thigh.'^ Being alone, and somewhat
frightened, retir'd without firing. These Indians are very
superstitious in regard to this Animal, for when they go on a
whaling cruize they always rub their face with a piece of it.
We have never been able to gain much information as respects
their Religion, but they certainly pay adoration to the Sun,
and Moon, and believe in Good and evil Spirits. They lash

91^ This is a strange error. The Hancock was then at the Sandwich Islands
on her way to China. On 6th October Ingraham records that on his anchoring
at Owhyhee he met the Hancock, then lately arrived from the Northwest Coast,
and spent some days in her corapany. She sailed at about that tirae for China
and was there during that winter.
92 The identity of these ships is uncertain. Malaspina in the Descubierta and
the Atrevida had been there, but sailed about the end of August. The San Carlos
and the Santa Saturnina were probably still at Nootka, though they returned that
fall to San Bias, but at what time is not known.
93 This frightful monster the seaman described as heing like an alligator
Hoskins started at once to find it, but all be could discover was a piece of burnt
log. when he spoke to the Indians about it they recognized it as the magic
animal, Haieclick, and offered twenty skins for a specimen. "If they have the
least piece of it in their canoe they are sure to kill a whale, which araong them
is deemed the greatest honour. Indeed a piece of it ensures success at all times
and on all occasions."

Log of the Columbia 295
their dead on the trees, first stowing them in a box 3 or 4 feet
long. The Head and Legs are cut off to make good stowage,
and little valuables that belong to the deseas'd are bury'd with
them. Capt. Gray went to an Indian Village for to look at a
Chief, said to be very sick. On his arrivall he was received
very cordially, and conducted to the sick man's house, which
was full of people. In one Corner lay the Sick Chief, and
around him eight strong men, which kept pressing his stomach
with their hands, and making a most hideous Bow-wowing, in
the poor fellow's ears. Upon the Captain's approach he sup-
pos'd the Chief to be nearly dead, and order'd this band of
Doctors to desist.'"*
December 22. Having made him some gruell to take, the
Chief soon came to a little, and order'd two Sea Otter skins
as a present. After giving him a Wine toast he order'd him
to be left to sleep, and visited a number of Chiefs houses, the
masters of which treated him with an attention not very com
mon among savages. (He returned on board.) I made an
excursion to this same Village, not long after. As soon as I
landed. Men, Women, and Children came down to the beach
to receive me, but did not offer to molest the boat. Found
the sick Chief much better, and reliev'd him from his pressing
and noisy friends. The house was large and commodious, and
wou'd hold fifty Indians very comfortably. All round was
packages of Fish in Boxes, and decorated with pearl shells.
Their furniture consisted chiefly of matts, and wooden boxes,
which last serves to boil their fish in, which they easily do by
applying red hot stones, till it boils. They neither scale or
draw the fish, but as it comes from the water, so it goes into
the box, to boil, or on the Coals to broil. There was severail
fires about the house but being there being no chimnies, the
smoak was too mighty for my eyes. They sleep on boards,
rais'd about a foot from the ground, and covered with matts,
rolling themselves up with furs. Over the sick man's head
there was a board cut out in the shape of a heart, and stuck
full of Otter's teeth, with a long spear on each side of him.
His young wife did not appear to be affected at the sight of

94 This was Yethlan, the youngest brother of Wickananish. The brief
description of the practice of the Shamans agrees with other accounts.

296 John Boit
her sick husband, but the Father and Mother was watching
their Son, with the most parental affection. After boiling
him some rice and leaving more with his mother, I left the
village and returned safe on board.
25. This day was kept in mirth and festivity by all the
Columbia's Crew, and the principal Chiefs of the sound, by
invitation, din'd on board ship. The Natives took a walk
around the work shops on shore. They was surprized at
seeing three tire of wild fowl roasting, at one of the houses —
indeed we was a little surprized at the novelty of the sight
ourselves, for at least there was 20 Geese roasting at one
immense fire, and the Ship's Crew appear'd very happy, most
of them being on shore. The Indians cou'd not understand
why the Ship's and houses was decorated with spruce bows. At
12 clock fir'd a federall Salute,'^ and ended the day toasting
our sweethearts and wifes.
1792. January 1. This day, being down sound, with the
Jolly boat after game. I stopt at the village. Visited Yethlan
the sick Chief, and found him much better. The family treated
me extremely well. I received many pressing invitations from
the rest of the Chiefs, for to visit their houses, and complied
with most of them, and was particularly pleas'd at visiting
Wickananish's dwelling, who this day had given an entertain
ment'* to all the warriors of his Villages, with many visitors
from distant villages. As soon as the King saw me I was
call'd towards him, and seated upon his right. This house was
about 80 foot long, and 40 broad, and about 12 feet high, with
a flat roof. The King was elevated about two feet higher than
the company, with a Canopy over his head, stuck full of
animals teeth. The Company consisted of above 100 men, all
considerably advanced in years. The Women belonging to the
house was in an apartment by themselves, busily employ'd
making their Bark Garment. The Machines for that purpose,
— I I
95 A salute of thirteen cannon shots. Martinez in his diary gives the fol
lowing explanation: "They told rae that the reason for not giving raore shots
each time was since there were thirteen of the American states and thirteen stars
in the canton of tneir flag, they had orders from their Congress to fire these
salvos with a like number of shots."
96 'This entertainment took place at Opitsitah, the regular dwelling place of
the tribe, on Meares Island. Hoskins tells us that they had only returned from
their winter village at Okerrainnah a week or so before. He gives the date of the
festivities as the 31st December and enters much more fully into the details.

Log of the Columbia 297
is not unlike the Looms with us. They are very neat and
dexterous in this business. The entertainment (which con
sisted of Fish Spawn mixed with Berries and train Oil,) was
served up in wooden Bowls, handed by the lower Orders of
males. I was invited strongly to partake, but the Smell was
enough — therefore pleaded indisposition. After they had done,
the remains was sent to the females. The King inform'd they
was going to have a dance in the evening, and wish'd me for
to stay. However I declin'd, and return'd on board. This
Village was 3 leagues" from Adventure Cove. Capt. Hannah,
a Chief of the village, Ahhousett sometimes came to see his
old friends (as he call'd us). He resided 9 leagues from the
Cove but was under the Jurisdiction of Wickananish.
6. This day one of the Chiefs of Juan De Fuca Straits
came on board. He was upon a visit to Wickananish, and
indeed had married his sister, inform'd us there was a Spanish
Ship in the Straits, brought many futrs.
17. Began to caulk the Sloop Adventure's bottom, it being
completely planked up. I this day made an excursion to the
Village, having put myself under the car of Tatoochkasettle,'*
one of the King's brothers, who conducted me in his Canoe.
Upon my arrival was treated as usuall very politely. I took
up ray residence at Tatoochkasettle's house, who invited a large
company to sup with him. After supper finding I wish'd to
visit some other familys he sent his servants with lighted
torches, for to conduct me. I retum'd back about Midnight
and found there was an excellent watch kept throughout the
village, each one hooping at certain intervals throughout the
night. My Indian friend had made me as comfortable a berth
to sleep on as was in his power, but the House being full of
smoak, and the young Children very fractious, occasion'd my
sleeping but little all night. In the moming early observ'd
most of the Men bathing on the Beach. On enquiring the
cause, was inform'd that this day the King was going to give
his Eldest Son the name of Wickananish, and take another

97 Haswell gives the distance between Opitsitah and Adventure Cove as
three miles. . , .. ^. ..,,.. .
o8 The eldest brother of Wickanantsh, and the Chief who had been decoyed
on board and held until Attoo, the Sandwich Island boy, was retumed. Evi
dently this insult still rankled in his breast, despite his outward appearance of
friendliness.

298 John Boit
upon himself, upon which account there was to be great rejoic
ings. About noon, upwards of 100 men assembled upon the
beach in front of the Village, with the King at their head.
Their dress, which was exactly uniform, consisted ofa Blankett,
made fast around the Loins with a Girdle, and reach'd about
half way down their thighs. Their hair was tum'd up, and
tyed with a thick bunch before and decorated with feathers.
Their faces was painted of different colours, and their bodies
of a deep red. Beads and fibres of Bark were woulded round
their Ancles and Knees, and at a distance they made a grand,
although savage appearance. They collected near the water,
at one end of the village, in regular tiers, about four deep. At
each wing many women were placed with Copper Boxes," in
which was small Stones, serving as part of the music. The
procession moved slowly along, the front squatting on their
hams, the others standing erect, with three of the King's
brothers upon their shoulders, who were dancing and running
from right to left, in that position while those under them was
on the Continual move. The King kept in front, giving the
word of Command. All their voices kept perfect tune with the
rattling of the boxes. The rest of the inhabitants were seated
along the beach viewing the performance. When they arrived
opposite the King's house, they enter'd single file, and I fol
lowed to see the transactions within doors. About 30 of the
principal Actors seated themselves in a Circle, and was pre
sented with a piece of board and a small stick. This they used
instead of a Drum. The whole Company then began to dance
and sing, and the Musicians joining, made it very pleasing.
But the Smell was too strong for my Organs. Therefore soon
drew off. These Natives are mild and chearfuU, with little of
that savage appearance that Savages generally have. Their Com
plexions is very light Copper,!"" but they darken it with Oil
and Paint. The Hair is coarse, long and black. 'T is a

99 Hoskins also mentions such boxes. It is possible that they may have been
manufactured from the sheets of copper purchased from the traders. It is certain
that they were not raanufactured frora the native copper.
IOO Cook (Third Voyage, vol. 2, p. 303, 4to. ed. 1785) says that when the dirt
and paint were well rubbed off "the whiteness of the skin appeared alraost to
equal that of Europeans; though rather of that effete cast which distinguishes
those of our Southern nations." Almost every other voyager has made some
what the same reraark.

Log of the Columbia 299
general custom to eat their own Vermin, and they are so
plenty that they will often make a decent repast. The Men
are generally thick set with flat noses and broad faces. The
Women are pretty. Their eyes are rather small, and though
they are not very quick and piercing, they give the counte
nance a frank, chearfull, and pleasing cast. We understood
from the Natives that they sometimes made Human sacrifices,
and shocking to relate, that they eat the flesh of such poor
victims. However I do not believe that this custom is very
common and only happens on some very particular Occasion.
A prisoner of War is the person selected for this savage feast.'"'
18. This day severail chiefs came on board, one of which
we found was busily employ'd talking with our Sandwich
Island lad. Their conversation was soon put a stop to, and
the Lad examin'd, but he denyd that the Chief ask'd him any
improper questions. These Natives, always behaving so
friendly, '"2 occasion'd us to place too much confidence in them,
and what a pity it is, that we cou'd not leave this port, with
that opinion of them which we had heretofore held; But alas!
We find them to be still a savage tribe, and only waiting an
opportunity for to Massacre the whole of us, in cold blood.
The Ship had been brought some days previous to this, to a
bluff point of Rocks, where she lay'd as to a wharfe, not even
touching the ground at low water. The Cannon and all the
stores was landed here, as we was about hauling on the beach
to grave and pay the Bottom. The situation of the Ship at
this period was very favorable to their views,'"^ and must have
encouraged them with the hope of destroying the whole of us ;
without the loss of a man on their side. However in this they
wou'd have been mistaken, as we kept a strong watch, under
the conduct of an Officer and was always guarded against

loi Hoskins accompanied. Boit on this visit and enters much more fully into
the description of this entertainraent. ,. „ , , .
102 Hoskins nevertheless records that m the preceding October a hunting
party had had some difficulty with the natives, who had behaved in a very rude
manner striving to take their fire arms from them and seeking to capture Captain
Gray Though Boit was of the party, he makes no allusion to the occurrence. It
was thought that this action was instigated by Tootiscoosettie in revenge for his
treatment already mentioned. . , . , ic ... c .- .,.
101 Hoskins opposed this move, as it had the effect of separating the crew
and left the ship and the fort out of sight of each other. I only told Captain
Gray," he says, "I hoped the natives would not take any advantage of the oppor
tunity which was presented them."

300 John Boit
surprize. But shou'd we have been over pow'd by numbers,
our friends perhaps never wou'd have known our sad fate.
But fortunately, in the evening, the Sandwich Island lad
made a confession to his Master, (as follows) :'"•* He said
Tatoochkasettle, (the Chief) told him, that Wickananish was
about to take the Ship and Massacre all the Crew, and said
he shou'd be a great man if he wou'd wet our Musketts, and
steal for him some Bulletts. He said they shou'd come that
night, or the next, or the next, and told him to come over to
them, when the fray first began. This news alarm'd the Ship's
Company exceedingly, and we immediately got in readiness to
receive them. Capt. Gray call'd his officers together, for to
consult what was best to be done, and we was unanimously of
opinion that 't was best to haul the Ship on the ways, and
grave her, as, the tide then suited, and we cou'd retreat in
safety to the Block House shou'd the Natives appear, (where
we had several Cannon mounted and good quarters.) This
plan was immediately put in execution, leaving a strong guard
on the point for to guard the Stores, with necessary signals
shou'd they want relief. By midnight one side of the Ship
was finish'd, when we heard a most hideous hooping of Indians,
and at every shout they seem'd to come nearer. Every man
immediately took his arms, and stood ready, both on board
ship and at the Log house. They kept hooping about one
hour, when they ceas'd and 't is probable retreated, lamenting
their hard luck, that the cruel plan was so completely frus
trated. The guard at the point saw many large Canoes off
the entrance of the Cove, but like brave fellows, they scorn'd
to quit the station. In the morning tide we finish'd the Ship,
and haul'd again to the point, and in the course of the Day
took on board all the stores and cannon, and moor'd off jn
the Cove, in our old berth. Scal'd the Guns, which made all
rattle again, and I believe never was more work done in so
short a time. But Men determin'd can do most any thing.
It does not appear that Wickananish wish'd to conquer a part
of us, as he had frequent opportunitys to have accomplish'd

104 Both Haswell and Hoskins tell the sarae story, in the raain; though their
accounts are more circumstantial and more thrilling.

Log of the Columbia 301
it, for two or three times a week a boat was down at the
Village,^°^ generally with an Officer and four Sailors, but I
suppose he very prudently thought, that shou'd he cut a boat's
Crew off, there was still enough left, for to destroy his Villages.
The Chiefs had been telling us for some time that they was
going to war with a distant tribe and wish'd for us to lend them
Musketts and Ammunition, which some of these fellows used
as well as ourselves. We had observed of late that they did
not seem so cheerful as common, but seem'd to be deeply
wrapt in thought. After this, no more of the Natives visited
Adventure Cove, except some old women and young girls, who
brought us berries and fish — and most propable they was sent
as spies.^"^
March 4. This day the Ship was completely rig'd, hold
stowed, and in every respect in readiness for sea. She look'd
like a fiddle! The King's Mother came along side and brought
some otter skins which we purchased. She told Captain Gray
that the Moon inform'd her Son if he come to the Ship he
wou'd be killd.
21. This day departed this life, after a lingering sickness,
Benj. Harding'"^ {Boatswain). He was a smart, active, and
steady man, and one that know'd, and did his duty in every
respect. Deposited his remains, next moming, near to the
Block house, after performing divine service. Promoted a
Seaman to his place.
22. Launch'd the Sloop Adventure.^°^ She went off ad-

105 At the very time of this atterapt Hoskins was making a visit to the village
Opitsitah. He found warlike preparations proceeding, and was not allowed the
same freedom of roaming in and out amongst the houses that he had theretofore
enjoyed. When he retumed the greatest consternation prevailed on the ship.
The crew were much rejoiced at his safe return, telling him that they never
expected to see him again. It was then he learned of the atterapted capture of
the Columbia. , . ,. , , , ,
io6 Hoskins says that these people would not exchange their fish and leeks
for anything but powder and shot, and in reply "Captain Gray ordered them to
immediately depart with a promise of giving them a-plenty of both articles when
we should corae down to Opitsitah." This may j>erhaps be interpreted to mean
that already Captain Gray had forraed the intention of destroying the village.
107 "This man," says Hoskins, "was a good seaman and well respected in
his office the spirits of this man was surprising the night we expected to be
attacked by the natives at a tirae when he was not able to be removed from his
bed he begged that he raight have a pair of pistols laid along side of him that
should the natives overpower us he raight shoot the savage who came to take
his life then says he I should die in peace.'' ,. v . tt i ¦ j
io8 Boit raakes the date of this launching 22nd March; but Hoskins and
Haswell both say the 23rd February.

302 John Boit
mirably.'"' Took a hawser and got her along side the Ship,
and soon had her rig'd.
24. The Sloop Adventure is ready for sea."" Capt. Haswell,
1st mate of ship, went on board and took charge, taking with him
Mr. Waters (4th mate) and a crew of ten Seamen and trades
men. I think she was one of the prettiest vessels I ever saw,
of about 45 tons, with a handsome figure head and false badges,
and other ways touch'd off in high stile. There was not a
Butt either in the Planks on deck or sides, and the plank not
above nine inches wide. She was victuall'd for a four months
cruize, and supplied with Articles for the Queen Charlotte
Isles trade, on which route 't was meant she shou'd go, while
the Ship proceeding along the Southern Coast.
25. Pleasant weather, wind at SE. In the moming got the
Remainder of our affairs from the shore, and unmoor' d. Left
Adventure Cove, and stood down Sound, with the Sloop in
company. We left our log houses all standing. Anchor'd
abreast the Village Opitsatah, but found it entirely deserted.'"
Observ'd very few Canoes moving.
During our long tarry in Adventure Cove, we all enjoy'd
good health, although the Crew was at times very much ex
posed. The boatswain's sickness commenced before our ar
rival in the Cove. The weather was generally very fine, and
ver}'^ seldom had Snow, and never Ice thicker than a Spanish
Dollar, but experienced frequent heavy rains. We pick'd
Whurtle and Blue Berries, throughout the winter, which was
very fine, and Whurtle Berry pudings was quite common with
us. We kept the Crew continually supplied with Spruce beer,
and their breakfast and supper was Tea boiled from the green
Spruce boughs sweetned with Molasses. Perhaps this method
kept the Scurvy off. However they did not eat much Salt pro
visions, as we was generally supplied with Poultry, Venison,
and fish.

109 Hoskins says that on the first attempt she ran a little more than her
length and stopped; the ground proving false the ways sank under her; the
carpenters relaid the ways and she was successfully launched the next day.
Haswell is to the sarae effect with slightly different details. The first attempt
was made on 22nd February.
1 1 o This took, according to Haswell and Hoskins, about a month, and not
two days, as Boit has it.
Ill The natives had suddenly reraoved to Echahchist on Village Island. This
village is shown on Meares map already mentioned (Meares Voyages, p. 202, 4to.
ed). So precipitate had been their flight that they had left many of their
domestic utensils scattered about their houses and hidden in the bushes.

Log of the Columbia 303
27. I am sorry to be under the necessity of remarking that
this day I was sent, with three boats all well man'd and arm'd,
to destroy the village of Opitsatah. It was a Command I
was no ways tenacious of, and am grieved to think Capt. Gray
shou'd let his passions go so far."^ This village was about
half a mile in diameter, and contained upwards of 200 Houses,
generally well built for Indians; every door that you enter'd
was in resemblance to an human and Beasts head, the passage
being through the mouth, besides which there was much more
rude carved work about the dwellings some of which was by
no means inelegant. This fine village, the work of Ages, was
in a short time totally destroy'd.
CRUIZING TO THE S. AND E. OF DE FUCA STRAITS
April 2. Weigh'd in company with the Sloop, and left Clio
quot harbour, and stood to the South'd with the Ship, while
the Sloop haul'd her wind to the Northward. Parted, with
loud Huzzas, a proper rendevous being appointed.
3. On the 3d passed De Fuca Straits, experience blowing
weather on the coast, but generally keep sight of the Land.
The Shore seems sandy, and the land of a moderate height,
with much clear ground fit for cultivation."^ Lat. 45° 15'.
There is regular soundings of this Coast, which is not the case
to the Northward.
7. N. Latt. 44° 56'; W. Long. 122° 52'. Very blowing
weather, and quite cold. Beating off the Coast, waiting for to
find a good harbour."'* The weather grows pleasant.
9. N. Latt. 44° 24' ; W. Long. 122° 17' Pleasant weather,
wind NW. Running along shoar to the South and East'd,
about 2 miles off the land trended NBE. and NBW., and
look'd very pleasant. The Shore made in sandy beaches, and
the land rose gradually back, into high hills and the beautiful

112 Neither Haswell nor Hoskins raentions the destruction of this village
Opitsitah; but there is no reason to doubt the fact. Gray had raade a threat
to give the natives powder and shot when he reached the village. His conduct
after the attempt to take the ship was that of an angry raan; Hoskins records
many instances of his exhibitions of passion, and complains bitterly of this con
duct, which was only raining the chances of trade with these people, who were
great hunters. . , _ _ _„• ^^ ^
(Notes 113-138 inclusive by T. C. Elliott.) ^ „r i.- _ j .i.-
113 Cruising to southward along coast of state of Washington, and this
observation taken off Cape Lookout. , , _ t- , ..i. x r ^
114 Observation taken a littie north of Cape Foulweather on coast of Oregon.

304 John Boit
fields of grass,, interspersed among the wood lands, made it
delightfull.'is 10. N. Latt. 43° 45'; W. Long. 122°' 11'. Abreast a small
inlet in the land, which had some the appearance of an harbour.
Hove to for some canoes that were coming off. These Natives
talk'd a different language from any we have before heard.
Their canoes had square stems, and the blades of the paddles
.oval. We purchas'd of them many fine Otter skins for Copper
and Iron. They had some raw Buff aloe in the canoes, which
they offer'd' us for sale, and greedily devourd some of it,, in
that state, as a recommendation. I'm fearfuU these fellows
are Caniballs.^^^ Mr. Smith, 2d Officer, was sent in the Cutter
to look for an harbour but was unsuccessful. Bore off and
made sail. Cape Gregory (so call'd by Capt. Cook) bore SE.
Variation. Amp'd 15° 57' East.
!11. N. Latt. 42° 50'; W. Long. 122° 3'; Amp'd 16° 42' E.
Some Canoes came along side full of Indians and brought a
few Otter and Beaver skins. Cape Mendocin bore ESE. 2
leagues.'" Hauld again to the Northward.
17. N. Latt. 44° 54'; W. Long. 122° 23'; Azi. 16° 57' E.
Sent the Boat, under charge of 2d officer, to examine an inlet
ahreast the Ship, to see if there was safe anchorage, but was
unsuccessful. A large Canoe came along side full of the
Natives. By their behaviour the Columbia was the first ship
they ever saw."*
22. :N. Latt. 46° 39'; W. Long 122° 50'; Azi. 17° 33' E.
Still beating about, in pursuit of anchorage. Sent the boat in
shore often,, but cou'd find no safe harbour. The Natives f re

us Now off mouth of Alsea river and Bay view, Oregon.
1 1 6 Off the raouth of Umpqua river in Oregon. Of course, there were neither
buffalo nor cannibals there, but with reference to the claim that cannibalism was
practiced on the Northwest Coast of America it is of interest to quote a private
letter from so high an authority as Dr. C. F. Newcombe, of Victoria, B. C,
who says that no one raaking that statement has admitted ever being a witness
to such an act. Then, leferring to Cook, Ledyard, Meares, Galiano & ValdeSj
Malaspina and Roquefeuil, he says: "In none of these is there anything said that
would' give grounds for thinking that cannibalism in our province was anything
more than a ceremonial affair." '* * "Coraing down to our own times, if you
wili look up that well known work of Dr. Boaz, 'The Social Organization etc.
of the Kwakiutl Indians,' you will find ample evidence for believing that this
tribe has to a very recent date kept up the observance of what to them is a
religious rite." „ t., ...
117 Nearly as far south as Cape Blanco, on Oregon coast. ^
118 Returning northward. No inlet charted opposite this location. If the
legendary claim that Capt. Gray landed on the coast of Oregon is true, this
joumal does not reveal the fact.

Log OF THE Columbia 305
quently came along side, and brought Otter furs and fish.
Their language to us was unintelligible. Experience strong
currents setting to the southward. We have frequently seen
many appearances of good harbours, but the currents and
squally weather hindered us from a strict examination. How
ever Capt. Gray is determin'd to persevere in the pursuit."'
AT ANCHOR OFF THE VILLAGE OF KENEKOMITT
27. N. Latt. 47° 52'; W. Long. 123° 30' O A. This day
stood in shore, the weather having become more settled, and
anchor'd with the Kedge in 15 fm. sand, abreast a village,
call'd by the Natives Kenekomitt,^^^ which was situate on a
small Hill, just back of the Beach. The Indians brought us a
fine lot of Skins, which we got chiefly for Copper, but the
weather coming again unsettled, we weigh'd towards evening
and stood off making short hanks off and on, shore. These
Indians spoke the same language as those in De Fuca Straits.
28. This day spoke his Britannic Majesty's Ships Discovery
and Chatham, commanded by Capt. George Vancover, and
Lieutenant Wm. Broughton, from England, on a voyage of
discovery.121 Left England April 1st, 1791, Do Othaheita
January, '92, and Sandwich Isles March, '92. A boat boarded
us from the Discovery, and we gave them all the information
in our power. Especially as respected the Straits of Juan De
Fuca, which place they was then in search of. They bore
away for the Straits mouth, which was not far distant. Stood
in and drain'd the village we was at yesterday and then bore
off after the English ships.
29. Pass'd Tatooch Isle, close on board, and left a large
ledge of Rocks without us, and stood into the Straits of De

no Now off Willapa Harbor on Washington coast and no mention at all of
mouth of Colurabia river in passing. The longitude cited must be disregarded
as too far east, an error comraon to the observations noted in this journal.
120 This village was close to a point now charted as Teakwhit Head, some
miles southeast of the mouth of Quillayute river on the coast of Washington. A
small streara eraptying there had some years ago the Indian narae Kenehenwhitt,
according to O B. Sperlin, of Tacoraa. Possibly identical with "Queenwithe
mentioned by Barkley in 1787 and Meares in 1788. u : ¦
121 Compare with Vancouver's Voyages, ist Edit., vol. i, page 213, where it is
stated that on April 28th Capt. Vancouver anchored off Destruction Island, but
mfde sail at 3 AM. on raorning of Sunday, the 29th and at 4. A. M sighted the
cXUI", and had his officers on board of her at 7 A. M. This would have been
about off the raouth of Quilbyute river A New Vancouver Journal, published
fn Washington- Historical Quarterly, vol. s, P. I33, pnts the date as 30th of
April.

306 John Boit
Fuca. Many Indians came off and brought plenty of furs.
The English ships came too towards evening on the South
entrance of the straits. In the morning they got under way
and stood up. We stood in and anchor'd, to the Westward of
Cape Flattery, in 17 fm. Trade not very brisk. Got under
weigh again towards evening and stood to the S. and E. along
shore. May 1. N. Latt. 47° 52'; W. Long. 123° 30'; Azi. 17° 30'
E. Anchor'd off the Village Kenekomitt, in the place we left
on the 27th April. Tatooch Isle bore WB:S. 2 leagues. A
brisk trade for furs.'22
3. Hove up and made sail for the Straits, the weather
looking threatening and soon enter'd them, found smooth
water. Kept beating to and fro, in preference to casting anchor.
5. Stood in toward Tatooch's Isle. The Natives brought
plenty of Halibut and other fish, but few Skins. Stretch'd out
from De Fuca Straits and bore off to the S. and E., running
along shore, about 2 miles from land.
6. Hove to for some Canoes to cOme up. They brought us
fish but no skins. Bore off. These fellows belong'd to a
small village in sight from the Ship, call'd Goliew.^^^
AT ANCHOR IN GRAY'S HARBOUR124
7. N. Latt. 46° 58'. Saw an inlet in the land, which had all
the appearance of an harbour. [Sent the Cutter, under charge
of 2d Officer, to examine it. Laying to, a strong current with
Squally weather. The Boat returned, and the Officer re
ported that he cou'd find nothing but breakers at the entrance,
but farther in it had the appearance of a good harbour. This
appearance being so flattering, Capt. Gray was determin'd not
to give it up. Therefore ordering the boat a head to sound,
with necessary signalls, the Ship stood in for the weather bar

122 The Columbia followed the ships of Capt. Vancouver as far as the entrance
to the Straits of Juan de Fuca, but then returned to the soutnward, for trade
and discovery.
123 Our Indian name, Quillayute. The village is La Push, at mouth of the
river of that name.
124 Gray's Harbor, State of Washington. So naraed hy the under officers
of the ship i^olumbia, as indicated by this and Haswell's Journal. Capt. Vancouver
adopted this name, but Capt. Gray always referred to it as Bulfinch's Harbor, in
honor of one of the principal owners of his ship. Corapare with entries in the
Log of the Columbia (printed herewith), giving much the same information.

Log of the Columbia 307
and we soon see from the Mast head a passage in between the
breakers. Bore off and run in NEBE., having from 4 to 9
fathom sand, an excellent strong tide setting out. The boat
having made a signal for anchorage and a good harbour, we
continued to stretch on till completely within the shoals when
we anchor'd in 5 fm. in an excellent harbour. Vast many
canoes came off, full of Indians. They appear'd to be a
savage set, and was well arm'd, every man having his Quiver
and Bow slung over his shoulder. Without doubt we are the
first Civilized people that ever visited this port, and these poor
fellows view'd us and the Ship with the greatest astonish
ment. Their language was different from any we have yet
heard. The Men were entirely naked, and the Women, except
a- small Apron before made of Rushes, was also in a state of
Nature. They was stout made, and very ugly. Their canoes
was from the Logs, rudely cut out, with upright ends. We
purchas'd many furs and fish.
. N. Latt. 46° 58'; W. Long. 123° 0'. Vast many canoes
along side, full of Indians. They brought a great many furs
which we purchas'd cheap, for Blankets and Iron. We was
fearfull to send a Boat on discovery, but I've no doubt we was
at the Entrance of some great river, as the water was brack
ish, and the tide set out half the time. This evening heard the
hooting of Indians, all hands was immediately under arms.
Several canoes was seen passing near the Ship, but was
dispers'd by firing a few Muskets over their heads. At j\Iid-
night we heard them again, and soon after as 't was bright
moonlight, we see the canoes approaching to the Ship. We
fird severail cannon over them, but still persisted to advance,
with the war Hoop.'^^ At length a large canoe with at least
20 Men in her got within yi pistol shot of the quarter, and
with a Nine-pounder, loaded with langerege and about 10

125 Capt. Gray, in his log. makes no mention of this attack. He had similar
experiences on the coast of Vancouver Island and further north. The circum-
st^ces suggest the presence of a war party from the south. The natives there
would have been of the Chehalis or Chickales tribe of the Chinookan faraily.
Compare with Vancouver's Voyages, ist Edit., vol. 2, pp. 79-92, where is related
the ^sit to this harbor of Lieut. Joseph Whitbey in the Daedalus, who remained
there Oct. igth-Nov. loth, 1792, and encountered very few Indians and those very
peaceable Whidbey bestowed the names Point Brown and Point New, which still
i^ain. Capt. Gray left no nomenclature here.

308 John Boit
Muskets, loaded with Buck shot, we dash'd her all to pieces,
and no doubt kill'd every soul in her. The rest soon made a
retreat. I do not think that they had any conception of the
power of Artillery. But they was too near us for to admit of
any hesitation how to proceed.
9. Very pleasant weather. Many canoes came along side
from down River'^s and brought plenty of Skins; likewise some
canoes from the tribes that first visited us, and their counte
nances plainly show'd that those unlucky savages who last
Night fell by the Ball, was a part of the same tribe, for we
cou'd plainly understand by their signs and gestures that they
were telling the very circumstance, to their acquaintances from
down River, and by Pointing to the Cannon, and endeavoring
to explain the noise they made, made us still more certain
that they had no Knowledge of fire arms previous to our coming
amongst them. I am sorry we was oblidged to kill the poor
Devils, but it cou'd not with safety be avoided. These Natives
brought us some fine Salmon, and plenty of Beaver Skins,
with some Otters, and I believe had we staid longer among
them vfe shou'd have done well.
11. Weigh'd and came to sail, and stretch'd clear of the
bar.'^^ Named the harbour we had left, after our Captain.
Standing to the South.
AT ANCHOR IN COLUMBIA'S RIVER
12. N. Latt. 46° 7' ; W. Long. 122° 47'. This day'^* saw
an appearance of a spacious harbour abreast the Ship, haul'd
wind for it, observ'd two sand bars making off, with a passage
iz6 Boit uses the expression "down river" here and later when referring to
Indians coming to trade from upper parts of the Chehalis and Olumbia rivers.
127 The Columbia was a ship of only 212 tons, as certified by the collector
of the port of Boston, and drew only six to eight feet of water, which was the
extrerae draft of vessels entering Gray's Harbor before any dredging was done
on the bar. The fact that Capt. Gray left this harbor at evening and sailed
directly southward all night, and the next morning "at 4 A. M. saw the entrance
of our desired port bearing east-southeast, distance six leagues," suggests that he
had obtained from the Indians of Gray's Harbor some definite information as
to the existence of a large river at Cape Disappointment. Boit mentions later
on that he recognized sorae of these same Indians around the ship in the Columbia
river, but this is doubtful.
128 (Compare with Log of the Columbia, which is printed herewith. For
cotemporaneous mention of this discovery, consult "Log of H. M. S. Chatham" in
Oregon Hist. Quarterly, vol. 18, page 231 et seq.; Letter of John Hoskins, the
supercargo or clerk on board the_ Columbia, to Jos. Barrell, one of her owners,
in archives of Mass. Hist. Society, Boston, said letter being dated at San
Lorenzo, Nootka Sound, Aug. 21st, 1792; Capt. (5eo. Vancouver's Voyages, ist
Edit, vols. I and 2; Journal of Capt. Jos. Ingrahara, of the brig Hope, in Library
of Congress.

Log of the Columbia 309
between them to a fine river. Out pinnace and sent her in
ahead and followed with the Ship under short sail, carried in
from yi three to 7 fm. and when over the bar had 10 fm.
water, quite fresh. The River'29 extended to the NE. as far
as eye cou'd reach, and water fit to drink'^o as far down as
the Bars, at the entrance. We directed our course up this
noble River in search of a Village. The beach was lin'd with
Natives, who rang along shore following the Ship. Soon after,
above 20 Canoes came off, and brought a good lot of Furs,
and Salmon, which last they sold two for a board Nail. The
furs we likewise bought cheap, for Copper and Cloth. They
appear'd to view the Ship with the greatest astonishment and
no doubt we was the first civilized people that they ever saw.
We observ'd some of the same people we had before seen at
Gray's harbour, and perhaps that was a branch of this same
River. At length we arriv'd opposite to a large village, situate
on the North side of the River, about 5 leagues from the en
trance. Came'^i to in 10 fm. sand, about >4 mile from shore.
The River at this place was about 4 miles over. We purchas'd
4 Otter Skins for a Sheet of Copper, Beaver Skins, 2 Spikes
each, and other land furs, 1 Spike each.
129 The Columbia river (or Columbia's river, as named by Captain Gray)
the existence of which had been the very positive belief of geographers, navigators
and explorers for nearly two hundred years. Its mouth had l^en associated with
the fabled Straits of Anian, and the voyage of the Spanish navigator, Martin de
Aguilar (1602). Its westward flow and watershed had been reported by Charle-
voir and the French explorers in the Mississippi Valley and beyond during the
first half of the fifteenth century under the broad designation River of the West.
Its upper courses had been strangely confused with those of the upper Missouri
by Major Robert Rogers in 1765, who then applied the name Ouragon. Its
theoretical source had been blantantly placed in northern Minnesota by Jonathan
Carver in 1778,, who called it the Oregon; and it's true source was not discovered
until 1807 by David Thompson. In 1775 the Spanish navigator, Bruno Heceta,
sailed up to its mouth, made an astronomical observation and bestowed names
upon river, bay and the two capes, but these names did not become permanent.
Thirteen years later Capt. John Meares, an Englishman, after sirailar examination,
declared that no such river existed, and left the name Cape Disappointment to
commemorate his warped or ignorant opinion. In April, 1792, Capt. Geo. Van
couver examined the opening at longer range and recognized Cape Disappoint
ment and confirmed the opinion of Capt. Meares. Now Capt. Robert (3ray con
firms the discovery by Heceta and actually sails into the long looked for river.
130 Explained by the fact that the river was then in flood with the spring
freshets. In October of the same year Lieut. Broughton of the Chatham, did not
find this condition of fresh water, and did not find as much depth of water
on the sand bars further upstream. This accounts considerably for the criticisms
by Broughton and Vancouver of the chart or sketch of the river given by Capt.
Gray to Capt. Vancouver when at Nootka. That chart has never been found for
reproduction, but the chart showing Lieut. Broughton's survey in October-November
of this same year (1792) is reprinted herewith.
131 This anchorage was a little southeast of the R R. station now known as
McGowan's and a little southwest of Point Ellioe on the north bank of the river.
It is practically the same as that of the Chatham on October 21st, 1792, as indi
cated on the chart herewith.

310 John Boit
We lay in this place till the 20th May,'^^ during which time
we put the Ship in good order and fill'd up all the water casks
along side, it being very good. These Natives talk'd the same
language as those farther South, but we cou'd not learn it.
Observ'd that the canoes that came from down river, brought
no otter skins, and I believe the otter constantly keeps in Salt
water. They however always came well stocked with land
furs, and capital Salmon. The tide set down' the whole time
and was rapid. Whole trees sometimes come down with the
Stream. The Indians inform'd us there was 50 Villages on
the banks of this river.
15. N. Latt. 46° 7'; W. Long. 122° 47'. On the 15th took
up the anchor, and stood up River, but soon found the water
to be shoal so that the Ship took the ground, after proceeding
7 or 8 miles from our first station. However soon got off
again. Sent the Cutter and found the main Channel was on
the South side,'^^ and that there was a sand bank in the
middle. As we did not expect to procure Otter furs at any
distance from the Sea, we contented ourselves in our present
situation,'^'* which was a very pleasant one. I landed abreast
the ship with Capt. Gray to view the Country and take pos-
session,'^^''^^^ leaving charge with the 2d Officer. Found

132 This amplification discloses that the writing of this joumal was not
diurnal, but this entry at sorae later date, presumably on May 20th, when the
ship left the river. This probably explains the unimportant divergence of one day
between the dates given by Capt. Gray and Boit.
133 (^apt. Gray found that the deep water or ship's channel of the river
then, as now, crossed the river frora Harrington Point to Tongue Point and
followed the south band to Point Adaras, but then crossed again into Baker's Bay
behind Cape Disappointment. Sand Island was then attached to Point Adams and
lay directly in what is now the deep water channel off that point. For discussion
of this consult vol. 18, pp. 242-3 of this quarterly. Lieut. Broughton's chart does
not show this deep water channel.
134 The latitude cited is practically correct, but the longitude a full degree
too far east. This anchorage was somewhere near Point Gray, which is the
location of the speculative townsite of Frankfort, now shown on commercial
raaps of the north bank of the river. According to the table of distances by the
govemment engineers, this point is seventeen and a half miles from the sea.
Boit does not record all the raoveraents of the_ ship on May 14th, 15th and i6th,
and for this corapare with Log of the Columbia, printed herewith.
13s 'The words "and take possession" were inserted at a later time and are in
quite a different ink. — W. C. F.
135^ As indicated by Mr. Ford, this is an interpolation. It suggests a cere
mony which is not yet known to have actually taken place, and one which would
have been of great value to the U. S. officials during the boundary disputes
prior to the treaty of 1846. During the first session of the 32nd Congress of
the U. S. a bill was introduced for the relief of Martha Gray, widow of Capt.
Robert Gray, and of the heirs of Capt. John Kendrick (S. B. Bill No. 526),
and in that connection on Aug. nth, i8«2, a report was filed which contained
unsupported statements as to such an act of taking possession. In "Early Days
in Old Oregon" (McClurg, 1916), there appears the positive statement of the
author that such an act was performed, but no references are given to support it.
If proven this will become a very interesting item of history.

Log OF THE Columbia 311
much clear ground, fit for cultivation, and the woods mostly
clear from underbrush. None of the Natives come near us.
18. ^ Shifted the Ship's berth to her Old Station abreast
the Village Chinoak, command'd by a chief named Polack.^^^
Vast many canoes, full of Indians, from different parts of the
River were constantly along side. Capt. Gray named this
river Columbia's, and the North entrance Cape Hancock, and
the South Point, Adams.^^^ This River in my opinion, wou'd
be a fine place for to set up a Factory. The Indians are very
numerous, and appear'd very civil (not even offering to steal).
During our short stay we collected 150 Otter, 300 Beaver, and
twice the Number of other land furs. The river abounds with
excellent Salmon, and most other River fish, and the Woods
with plenty of Moose and Deer, the skins of which was brought
us in great plenty, and the Banks produces a ground Nut, which
is an excellent substitute for either bread or Potatoes. We
found plenty of Oak, Ash, and Walnut trees, and clear ground
in plenty, which with little labour might be made fit to raise
such seeds as is necessary for the sustenance of inhabitants,
and in short a factory set up here, and another at Hancock's
River, in the Queen Charlotte Isles, wou'd engross the whole
trade of the NW. Coast (with the help [of] a few small coast
ing vessells).
20. This day'38 left Columbia's River, and stood clear of
the bars, and bore off to the Northward. The Men, at Co
lumbia's River, are strait limb'd, fine looking fellows, and the
Women are very pretty. They are all in a state of Nature,
except the females, who wear a leaf Apron — (perhaps 't zvas
a fig leaf. But some of our gentlemen, that examin'd them
pretty close, and near, both within and without reported, that
136 Evidently a _ predecessor of Coracomly, the one-eyed potentate of the
Chinook Indians during so many years of the fur trade period, whose daughters
were given in marriage to some of the traders.
137 This name is still officially recognized, but the name given to the northern
cape did not become permanent. Captain Heceta named the southern point Cabo
Frondoso because of the trees and brush which then ^rew down to the edge of
the beach. Astoria, on the southern bank fifteen railes inland, was the first
trading post on the lower river and Fort Vancouver, one hundred miles inland
and on the north hank, became the first Factory, meaning thereby the residence
and headquarters of the Chief Factors, who managed the business of the district.
138 Now the two accounts, Capt. Gray's and Bolt's, synchronize. The dates
given by (japt. Gray are official and take precedence, and it is still correct to say
that the Columbia river was first entered by white men on May nth, 1792. A
similar divergence of one day appears in the narrative of Capt. Vancouver the
following (Dctober.

312 John Boit
it was not a leaf, but a nice wove mat in resemblance ! ! and so
we gO' — thus, thus — and no War ! — !
21. N. Latt. 47° 55'. Abreast the Village Goliu, hove to
and purchas'd some Skins from the Natives, then bore off to
the North and West.
22. N. Latt. 48° 20' ; W. Long. 124° 32'. Saw Tatooch's
Isle and Cape Flattery, on the S. and E. entrance of Juan De
Fuca straits (bound to the North'd) for to meet the Sloop
Adventure. 23. N. Latt. 49° 9'; W. Long. 128° 0' O C * d. Pass'd
Clioquot harbour, fine fresh gales, at SE.
24. N. Latt. 50° 10'; W. Long. 128° 10'. Pass'd Woody
point, at 2 miles distant. Several canoes put off from Colum
bia's Cove, but we did not stop.
AT ANCHOR IN ST. PATRICK HARBOUR
25. N. Latt. 50° 30' ; W. Long. 128° 30'. This day the
Ship being abreast a fine inlet, dispatch'd Mr. Smith, in the
Cutter to examine it. Soon after the Boat had a signal for a
harbour. Haul'd our wind and stood in shore and anchor'd
15 fm. mud and sand, in a complete Snug Cove.'^' Many
canoes came along side, full of Indians. They was all dress'd
in War Armour,'^*'^ and completely arm'd with Bows, arrows
and Spears, and had altogether quite a savage appearance. I
believe they was fearful we shou'd rob their village, which
was at no great distance as they appear'd much agitated. How
ever soon began a brisk trade for Otter furs. We landed,
with the boats, and got Wood and Broom Stuff, but the Indians
wishing to be troublesome, soon give over this business —
indeed I was obliged to knock one of them down with my
Musket.

139 It is difficult to identify this cove. If the latitude could be relied on it
should be in Quatsino Sound; but no such cove exists there near the ocean as
this cove manifestly was. The reference to the fine inlet and the complete snug
cove would fit San Josef Bay and Sea Otter Cove, which lies just west of it.
Meares gives on page 326, 4to. ed., a representation of Sea Otter Cove and
fixes its latitude as 50° 41'. Unfortunately, however, Boit says they anchored in
fifteen fathoms and Sea Otter Cove has only five fathoms at its entrance and one
to three fathoms inside. .... ., , ,...,,.
140 Captain Cook tells us that this 'armour' appeared to be the skin of elk
tanned; it covered them from the breast almost to the heels_; it was not only suffi
ciently 'strong to resist arrows, but even spears could not pierce it. (Cook's Third
Voyage, vol. 2, p. 308, 4to. ed. 1785.) Hoskins speaks of "moose hide huff leathered
which is oiie of their war garments." Fraser records in his journal under date
ist July, 1808, '"The Chief made me a present of a coat of mail to make shoes."

Log of the Columbia 313
AT ANCHOR IN COLUMBIA'S COVE
28. N. Latt. 50° 30'; W. Long. 128° 30' O d. Weigh'd
and came to sail, and left this harbour, which we named St.
Patrie k's.^'^oi' The Indians were much the same as the Nootka
tribes. Standing towards Woody point, which was in sight.
Towards evening, anchor'd in Columbia's Cove, in our former
berth, past many natives along side, and seem'd much pleased
at our visiting them again.
29. N. Latt. 50° 6' ; W. Long. 128° 12'. Vast concourse
of Indians coming off, among whom was Necklar chief of the
sound. They brought many more furs than they did the last
season we visited them. Found these Natives so chearful
and oblidging, that we did not apprehend any danger in send
ing parties on shore after Wood and Water. However, they
soon discover'd our Crew was diminish'd, and was very in
quisitive for to know what had become of the rest of us.
We thought prudent for to tell them that they was asleep below.
I mistrust that the Indians did not believe us, but probably
supposed our Shipmates had been kill'd. At 10 in the evening,
a number of large canoes full of People, came into the Cove.
They halted near some rocks about Pistol shot from the Ship,
and there waited about ten minutes, during which time all
hands was brought to arms, upon deck in readiness to receive
them. Soon after a large War Canoe, with about 25 Indians,
paddled off for the Ship. We hail'd them, but they still per
sisted, and other canoes was seen following, upon which Capt.
Gray order'd us to fire, which we did so effectually as to kill
or wound every soul in the canoe. She drifted along side,
but we push'd her clear, and she drove to the North side of
the Cove, under the shade of the trees. 'T was bright moon
light and the woods echoed with the dying groans of these
unfortunate Savages. We observ'd many canoes passing and
repassing the Cove, at a small distance, in all probability they
was after the poor dead Indians. They soon after ceas'd

1405^ Captain Hanna had naraed St. Patrick's Bay in this vicinity. It is
San Josef Bay on our maps of today. In it Hanna gives is fathoras, but it is not
a snug cove, being tliree railes in length and two miles in breadth at its entrance
and open to all winds except from the north. There is no contemporary
account to assist us here; for Hoskins' Narrative ends with the departure frora
Clayoquot and Haswell was at this tirae oli the Adventure.

314 John Boit
groaning, and we neither see nor heard any thing of them
after."" We always found these Natives very friendly but they soon
discover'd how thin the Ship's Company was now to what it
was when we visited them before, and I believe it is impos
sible to keep friends with savages any longer than they stand
in fear of you. But I carmot think they had any intention
of boarding the Ship but were after a small anchor, which
they in the course of the day see placed on some rocks (above
water) for to steady the Ship, and when taken off at dusk
they had left the Ship. But still they was daring fellows to
think they cou'd steal the anchor of a moon light night, within
pistol shot of the Ship. Capt. Gray did not wish to fire upon
them, for we cou'd easily have blown them to pieces, while
they was holding a conference abreast the Rocks. They first
stopt all by firing a cannon or two among them, and the
reason we suffer'd them to approach so near before firing was
that we were in hopes they wou'd miss the Anchor and then
leave the Cove, for we wish'd much to keep friendly with these
Indians, as this was the appointed Rendezvous for to meet
the Sloop.
BOUND TO THE NORTHWARD
30. This day unmoor'd and left Columbia's Cove, bound
to the Northward, having left a Board nail'd to a tree, just
back of the watering place, with the following inscription
"Ship Columbia, arriv'd May 28th Saild May 30th. Beware,"
that in case Capt. Haswell shou'd arrive before us, he might
be on his guard.
June 1. N. Latt. 50° 7'; W. Long. 128° 30'; Amp'd 21° 20'
E. Head wind at NW. and squally weather. Ships Crew all
well and hearty.

141 On 3rd June, 1792, some of these Indians arrived at Nootka asking from
Quadra assistance against a vessel which, said they, had attacked their village,
killing seven, wounding others, and despoiling the rest of their sea otter skins.
They brought with them a wounded Indian to be treated by the Spanish doctor.
The natives claimed that the Americans, being unable to agree upon the price
of the furs, had used force to compel thera to surrender their peltries. The
account in the Viaje, page 24, proceeds as follows: "Segun se pado comprehender
el buque era la Fragata Araericana la Colurabia, _ su Capitan (jray, a quien indi-
caban los Indios con la senal de_ que era tuerto; circurastancia que sabiamos recaia
en dicho Capitan." In connection with the Indian account the entry of May 25
ante raay be consulted; it will be observed that Boit believed "they was fearful
we should rob their village."

Log OF THE Columbia 315
4. N. Latt, 51° 0'; W. Long. 129° 1'. Some Canoes full
of Indians came off from the Shore, abreast the Ship, and
many valuable skins was purclias'd. Iron seem'd most in
demand. These fellows soon grew saucy, and threw a number
of stones, at our people, but as we did not wish, (if possible)
to avoid it, for to shoot the poor mistaken savages, we bore
off to the Northward, keeping in sounding from 30 to 20 fm.,
2 miles off shore. PINTARD'S STRAITS'^
5. N. Latt. 51° 30'; W. Long. 129° 30'; Azi. 20° 30' E.
This day saw a large entrance in the land, between two points,
above 4 leagues wide.'"*^ We haul'd in for the same and when
between the points had no bottom with 30 fm. We directed our
[course?] about Ej^S and cou'd not see the Land to the East.
The Ship went in exceeding fast with a strong tide in favour.
Water was quite salt, which prov'd it not to be a River.
Observ'd many high Rocks and small Isles, scatter'd about in
this famous Straits. Kept the Lead going but got no bottom
with 30 fm. line, and saw no signs of Indians. Towards dark
stretch'd close in to the South Shore for anchorage, but
found none. Kept working under short sail all night, making
short boards. No ground in any direction with 120 fm. line.
6. Azi. 20° 30' E. Bore away up sound, in pursuit of
anchorage and Natives. At length, after advancing 15 leagues
up sound, we came to, within stone's throw of the beach, in
20 fm. water, sanciy bottom, upon the South shore.
7. I went on shore abreast the Ship, with two boats after
wood, took the Carpenter with me for to cut a Mizen topmast.
We had not been long at work, in the Woods before above
200 Indians, of a sudden rush'd out upon us. The carpenter

142 Pintards Sound was the narae given by the Americans to the waterway
now called Queen Charlotte Sound, in honour of J. M. Pintard of Boston, one
of the owners of the Columbia and the Washington. The first mention of the
name so far as can be at present ascertained, is in Haswell's first Log in May,
1 789, on the first voyage made by the Americans (that of the Washington) to the
northward. "I am of opinion," says Haswell, "there must be some inland com
munication by lakes or perhaps the sea raay continue by large arms and have
communication in the interior part perhaps by way of Pintard Sound."
143 At its entrance this sound is twenty miles wide, though in its extent its
average width is from ten to fifteen miles. It is very deep. There are only two
places Beaver Harbour and Port Alexander, where a vessel of any size can
find good anchorage. The sound is only fifty miles long; the distances given in
this part are much exaggerated.

316 John Boit
being some way from the rest of the party, got nearly sur
rounded, and was oblidged to fly, leaving his Broad Axe behind.
I immediately rallied my people together, and retreated slowly,
at the same time fir'd a few Musketts over their heads which
kept them in check. At length they advanced so near as to
throw their Spears. We then discharg'd our Musketts and
killd several. However they still persisted, and I believe if
we had not got to the beach (clear from the woods) that we
shou'd have been overpower'd. They heard the reports of
the Musketts on board, but never dreamt that we [were]
attack'd by Indians, as none had been seen before. Imme
diately as we made our appearance the Ship cover'd us with
the Cannon and the Grape and round shot, must have done
considerable damage to our pursuers, as they fell just into the
brink of the wood, where the thickest of the Indians was.
This soon dispers'd them, and we got all safe on board. Some
of these fellows afterwards came down abreast the Ship and
brandished their Weapons at us, bidding defiance.
8. N. Latt. 51° 30'; W. Long. 129° 30'; or thereabouts.
Got under way bound farther up the Straits and towards eve
ning luff'd into a small bend of the land, and came to in 17
fathom close to the shore. ^'''^ A few canoes, with Indians came
off, who talk'd the Nootka language. They inform'd that
in two days, through the woods, they cou'd reach Nootka Sound
and indeed, the Ship was at Anchor near to a Mountain, which
is plainly in view at Friendly Cove, (Nootka Sound).
9. Many canoes of this day, and plenty of fine Otter Skins
was purchas'd. About Noon, 20 large War Canoes hove in
sight, with above 30 Men in each, and we soon discern'd with
our Glasses that they was all arm'd, with Spears and Arrows.
The friendly Indians that was trading along side, told us these
people had come to fight, and belong'd to the tribe we had fir'd
at two days before, when attack'd upon the beach. Capt. Gray
thought it not safe to admit them along side at once, and
therefore order'd them, when within hail, for to keep off, and
144 This may be Beaver Harbour, though it is strange that he does not
mention the islands that protect it. Frora this vicinity there Is an Indian trail
some eight miles in length which leads to Quatsino Sound, which may have been
mistaken for a trail to Nootka Sound. As the crow flies the distance to Nootka
Sound is about eighty miles. The mountain referred to is, likely, Mount Karmut-
zen; but this is not visible from Nootka.

Log of the Columbia 317
not but one canoe come along side at a time. They obey'd
the command, and one canoe, with 42 men came alongside,
but had only a skin or two. We soon discover'd that the main
body of canoes was paddling towards us, singing a War Song.
We fir'd a cannon and some Muskets over their heads. At
this they mov'd off about 100 yds. and again halted. A Small
Canoe, with a Chief, (paddled by two Indians) kept con
stantly plying between the Ship and the main body of the
Canoes, counting our men, and talking earnestly to the Natives
along side, encouraging them to begin the attack. He was
suffer'd to proceed in this manner some time, when Capt.
Gray told himi to come near the Ship no more, but he still
persisted, and was shot dead for his temerity. Also the Chief
Warrior, of the Canoe along side, was shot, for throwing his
Spear into the Ship. They then made a precipitate retreat,
and the trading Indians, who had kept at a small distance
viewing the transactions, again recommenced their trade with
us. They inform'd us these Indians, who meant to attack
us, was of another tribe with them. Canoes with Indians,
came along side and traded away their Otter Skins, but not
without Manifest signs of fear.
12. The Natives kept bringing furs, which we purchas'd
for Copper and Cloth. Iron very dull sale.
FROM PINTARD'S STRAITS TO COLUMBIA'S COVE
13. Weigh'd and came to sail, standing down straits saw a
number of fishing canoes, at a distance but none came near.
Towards evening came to in 16 fm. at our former anchorage.
See no Indians.
14. Fair wind and pleasant, weigh'd and stood down straits,
and at 9 in the evening got clear out bound to Columbia's Cove,
our place of Rendezvous. Shou'd these straits join with Juan
da Fuca, which perhaps it does, it must make the whole Coast
between the Latitudes of 48° 15' and 51° 30' North and Longi
tudes 120° 57' and 129° 30' W. a vast Archipelago of Islands.i-^^
ili; This idea is not original with Boit. It was in the air at that time. In
Meares^ Voyages 4to ed., prefixed to his account of his voyages in 1788 and 1789,
is a map in which is shown the celebrated, and now proved to have been imag
inary track of the Washington, entermg at the Strait of Juan de Fuca and emerging
at Oieen Charlotte Islands. The curious will find further imaginary details of
this voyage in the correspondence of Meares annexed to. the Report of the
Archivist for British Columbia, 1914. and also in Newcombe's First Circumnavigation
5 Vancouver Island. The quotation from Haswell's first Log set out m note 142 ante
shows the same opinion. Ingraham also entertained it.

318 John Boit
We named the port we had entred Pintards, after one of the
owners, and I've no doubt we are the first discoverers.^*^ It
is certainly the most dangerous navigation we have experienced
being full of Ledges, small Isles, no soundings and excessive
strong tides. But I think it affords the most 5ea Otter skins.
We procured upwards of 300 hundred, during our stay, and
saild up this straits more than 100 miles, and cou'd see no
end.i''' At our last anchorage, or rather the highest up the
shore seem'd to trend about ESE.
15. N. Latt. 51° 17'; Amp'd 21° 14' E. Head wind beat
ing to and fro, making slow progress. The entrance of Pin
tards straits bore East, 3 or 4 leagues, 70 fm. water.
17. N. Latt. 50° 6'; W. Long. 128° 12' O d. Fresh breezes.
This day spoke the Sloop Adventwre, Capt. Haswell, sent Our
boat and Capt. Haswell came on board the Ship. Bore off the
Cove. 'T is remarkable that we both meet within 12 league
of our Rendezvous bound in. The chief of the Sloop's Cruize
had been about the Charlotte Isles, and had collected about
500 Skins, all prime.i'*^ On the 24th of April Capt. Haswell
fell in with the Ship Margaret of Boston,'''^ James Magee
Master. They was on the same business as ourselves. At 5
P. M. past Woody point, and at 7 anchored in company with
the Sloop, in Columbia's Cove.i^o A few Natives ventured.

146 Queen Charlotte Sound was discovered in 1786 by the Experiment, then
in comraand of Wedgborough (Vancouver's Voyage, vol. 2, p. 308, 8vo. ed. 1801);
though there raay be doubt as to the exact person then actually in command.
James Hanna in the snow Sea Otter was also in this sound in the summer of
1786. Duncan, in August, 1788, spent some time at its western enirance. Funter,
in the North West America, was there in 1 789 ; , see his map of Raft Cove in
Meares Voyages, 4tb., p. 326, which appears to be the present (ioletas Channel and
Shushartie Bay. . , -., ... „ . .
147 This is an exaggeration; the bound is only fifty miles long. Boit s state
raent that the shore at the end of their examination trended ESE would indicate
that tiiey were following the Vancouver Island shore, and at this point were
looking down Johnstone Strait.
148 Under date i8th June, Haswell records that he "delivered to Capt. Gray
238 sea otter skins 142 Tails 23 Cootsacks and 19 pieces." The tails were fre
quently sold separate from the rest of the skin. The fur thereon was the richest.
The cootsacks, or cutsarks, were Indian sea otter cloaks, usually composed of three
149 The Adventure, under Haswell, met this ship at Barrell Sound (Houston
Stewart Channel) on 7th May. Haswell says she was as fine a vessel as ever I saw
of her size, and appeared exceedingly well fitted for his voyage, and I believe
there was no expense spared." She had been in Houston Stewart Channel ten
days and had collected but very few skins. She brought letters for the Columbia,
and Haswell returned the compliment by taking letters from her to be forwarded
to Boston by the first opportunity. ^. , „ , , „, j r> • ,.
150 "This entry shows that Columbia s Cove was very close to Woody Point
(Cape Coolt). In rounding that point, owing to the rocks which extend from it,
tiie ship would probably give it a berth of at least two miles ; and within two
hours she is at anchor.

Log of the Columbia 319
along side, after much coaxing. (Found the Inscription at the
watering place unmolested.) Took the Skins from Sloop on
board ship. Sent parties on shore, well arm'd after wood and
water. Purchas'd some furs.
20. Haul'd the Sloop on shore, and graved her. Capt. Has
well says she is an excellent sea boat, and sails very well.^^^
The Indians among whom we traded never offer'd insult.
21. Got the Sloop off the ways, and fitted her for another
Cruize. 24. Weigh'd and sail'd from the Cove, in company with the
Adventure, bound to Queen Charlotte Isles.
25: N. Latt. 50° 37' ; W. Long. 129° 55'. Fair wind and
moderate breezes. Sloop in company. The coast about 8
leagues distance.
28. N. Latt. 52° 18'; W. Long. 129° 15'. Fresh winds,
all sail out running along shore, about 3 leagues distance, with
smooth sea. Sloop about 2 miles a head. At 2 P. M. the Ship
struck a Rock,!^^ which lay about 7 feet under water and did
not break, hove all aback, and she came off clear, try'd the
pump, and found she leak'd 1000 smart strokes per Hour,
sounded along the Rock, and found no ground at 70 fm. Hoisted
a signal for the Sloop, and she immediately haul'd her wind
for .us. Stood off, both pumps just keeps the leak under. In
the morning bore off to the Northward.

151 Hoskins, writing to Barrell on 28th Septeraber, 1792, makes a different
stateraent. He says, "she sails very dull"; but Haswell states twice in his second
Log that she outsailed the Columbia,
152 Vancouver (Voyage, vol. 4, p. 287, Svo. ed. 1801) says that Captain Gray
in the Columbia struck and received sorae material damage upon a e mken rock,
which he represented as lying much further than a league frora Cape St. James
in an almost southeast direction. But the latitude and longitude given by both
Haswell and Boit place it very much further east. Haswell, indeed, says it was
abreast of the south entrance of Loblip Sound, which has been identified as Milbank
Sound. There the coast is broken into low craggy islands and detached sunken
rocks ' "I was surprised to find Capt. Gray," says Haswell, "standing in for the
land in a place that looked to rae very dangerous. However, as he hal ordered
me to lead off, I did not follow hira. He had all sail on his ship, steering sails
below and aloft I had seen as I passed several sunken reefs of rocks, and as the
Columbia passed not looking out properly, she struck. I iraraediately made sail
to windward, hoisted my boat out and set off for the ship. She fired a gun,
but soon swung clear of the rocks and hoisting her colors stood towards me. The
shin had been going at the rate of 5 knots when she struck. She appeared to
have met with no material daraage compared with what raight have been expected.
In a letter to Barrell dated frora Nootka 21st August, 1792, young Hoskins
unburdens himself in regard to many matters on the vessel; after complaining
of the risk run hy Captain Gray in crossing the Columbia River bar, he proceeds:
"At last however, fortune refus'd any longer to smile and in blundering along
(for I can call it by no better name) without any lookout kept, within three
miles of a raost inhospitable & rocky shore, the Ship going six knots with a crowd
"f sairstruck on a r^k about four feet under, water (this was the 25th of June)
^e Sloop in company. Mr. Haswell says he^in the Sloop saw the rock break &
ternVd from it (the Ship was to follow him).

320 John Boit
29. N. Latt. 53° 1'; W. Long. 131° 41'. Came on a hard
gale of wind, and although we kept firing Cannon through
the night the Sloop parted from us, as 't was very thick in
the moming. The leaks rather increas'd, and our feelings was
not the most agreeable on the occasion. i^^
OFF QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLES (SOUTH PART)
30. N, Latt. 51° 57'; W. Long. 131° 10'. This day see
the Queen Charlotte Isles, stood in pretty close to the South
pt. and fother'd the Ship with a topsail which we had pre
viously prepared for that purpose. This, fortunately for us,
stop'd the leak one half.
July 1. N. Latt. 51° 48'. Close in off the South pt. of
Queen Charlotte Isles from which lay many detach'd Rocks.
We pass'd the pt. within two or three miles and left many
breakers without us in the Offing. We wish to get into Bartells
sound. 2. N. Latt. 51° 49'; W. Long. 130° 30'. Saw the entrance
of Barrells sound, bearing NW., the wind direct in our teeth.
Employ'd turning to windwards, with all the Elements against
us. Crew all in brave health.
3. Employ'd beating to windward through the night, in the
moming spoke the Ship Margaret, James Magee, Master.
Capt. Gray went on board the Margaret, and found Capt.
Magee very sick.^^"* This ship stopt a few days at the Cape
De Verds, and made her passage in 6 months. They had not
153 Evidently the gale was from the northwest, as it drove the ship about
sixty miles southward and about thirty eastward. Haswell was informed at two
o'clock in the raorning by the officer of the watch that the ship had suddenly
disappeared and he feared she had foundered. He iramediately sailed the Adven
ture back to the spot where the Columbia had last been seen; but he searched
for her in vain. Haswell loitered in the vicinity for another twenty-four hours,
but seeing nothing of tbe missing ship, concluded that she had surely foundered.
On 2ist August, while at Cox Strait (Parry Passage), he learned from Ingraham,
who had just arrived in the Hope, that the Columbia was repairing at Nootka.
Hoskins, in a private and fault-finding letter to Barrell, gives an account showing
that it originated in a bit of pique. Previous to the accident, he says, Haswell,
in the Adventure, had been instructed, as he was leading, to tack at twelve
o'clock. The two vessels got into a race as to which could go longest and fastest
by the wind. Haswell, nevertheless, tacked at raidnight, but the Columbia's men,
irritated that the sloop Should tack before the ship, continued on their course
without tacking until one o'clock. Of course, in that hour the vessels drew
steadily apart; ultimately the Columbia was no longer seen; then arose the hue
and cry that the ship had foundered.
1 54 The Margaret was owned by the same people as the Hope. Ingraham met
her about a month later near Nootka Sound, when Mr. Larab, the chief officer,
carae aboard to report to hira that Captain Magee was very ill. Later Ingraham
states that Captain Magee was so ill that it was agreed that he should return to
China, in the Hope as a passenger.

Log of the Columbia 321
been very fortunate in trade. Bore away to the Southward, in
company with Capt. Magee, bound to Columbia's Cove, for
the purpose of examining the Columbia's bottom. Fair wind
at NW.
AT ANCHOR IN COLUMBIA'S COVE
5. N. Latt. 50° 6' ; W. Long. 128° 0' This day came to in
Columbia's Cove in company with the Margaret. Several
canoes came along side> and the Natives appear'd quite chear
full. 6. Hoisted all our Cannon, in the longboats of both Ships,
made a raft of our spare spars on which we put everything
possible that wou'd not damage. Struck yards and topmasts.
So ends.
7. Took up the Anchor, and hauld the Ship on shore, on a
fine beach, at high tide. When the tide ebb'd, 't was discover'd
that the Ship's keel was split, and the lower part of the Stem
was entirely gone, within 2 inches of the Wood ends, a great
deal of Sheathing was off, and three of the plank next to
Garboard Streak was stove on the larboard side. The Car
penters went to work and put in new pieces of plank but it
was found impracticable to pretend to repair the bows with
out heaving down, or some such method, and this cou'd not
be done in our present situation. Nootka Sound, where we
knew there was a Spanish settlement, Capt. Gray tho't the
most proper place, and we all concur'd in the opinion^s'
8. Hauld' the Ship off, and soon got ready to leave the Cove.
BOUND TO NOOTKA SOUND
10. N. latt. 50° 6'; W. Long. 128° 0' This day weigh'd,
and again left the Cove, in company with the Margarett,^^^i
standing towards Nootka, but overshot it in the Night, which
is a misfortune.
11. N. Latt. 49° 9'; W. Long. 125° 26'. Abreast Clioquot
155 Hoskins' letter to Barrell, dated frora "St. Lorenzo, Nootka Sound, Augt.
21, 1792," shows that the owners' orders very positively forbade the ship's entering
a Spanish port except in case of distress. ..,,„„, ,. j
155U Ingraham states that this vessel carried a Mr. Howell, who was charged
with the duty of writing an account of the voyage. So far as is known this record
is not extant at the present time.

322 John Boit
harbour, and as it's in vain to beat to Nootka with a strong
breeze a head, we bore up, and towards evening, in company
with the Margaret, anchor'd in Qioquot harbor.^^* The Natives
were at first shy, but we prevail'd on some of them to come on
board. 12. Capt. Gray, having met with Wickananish on board the
Margaret, prevail'd on him to visit the Columbia, but he did not
appear happy. However 't was the means of getting more
Skins, than we otherwise would have done. Employ'd wood
ing and watering (abreast the Ship) and under cover of her
Guns. 15. This day arriv'd in the Harbour the English Brig
Venus,^^^ Henry Sheppard Master, 6 months from Bengali in
India. I went off to him in the offing, and piloted his Brig
to the harbour. He inform'd us that at a small harbour in
De Fuca straits, where he was at anchor a few days since,
there was a Spanish settlement, where lay a Spanish 64, the
master of which while amusing himself in shooting back in the
woods, was kill'd by the Indians, in consequence of which the
Spaniards seized a Canoe full of Natives and massacred them
all (in cold blood) not even sparing Children. Shocking to
relate !i5*
17. Weigh'd with a fair wind, and left Qioquot bound to
Nootka sound, to repair the Ship, under the protection of the
Spaniards. Left the Ship and Brig behind. The wind soon
came a head, and we began turning to windward, without mak
ing much progress. However we shall reach it by persever
ance. 19. N. Latt. 49° 0'; W. Long. 125° 0' Bad weather and
the wind direct ahead. This day stood in and anchor'd in
Clioquot harbour. Found the Ship made a poor hand beat-

156 The Port Cox already frequently mentioned in these notes. From this
anchorage Gray could see all that remained of the destroyed village of Opitsitah,
which was onlv four miles distant.
157 A hrig of one hundred and ten tons commanded by a Captain Shepherd.
Finding the price of furs too high on the sea coast, she sailed from Nootka to try
the trade in Queen Charlotte Sound, and, rauch to Vancouver's surprise, was
raet by him near Calvert Island on 17th August, 1792. Vancouver's Voyage, vol.
2, pp. 319-320, Svo. ed. 1801.
158 The atrocities were not always on the Indians' side. Ingrahara gives
rauch the same account; he says the Spaniards killed eight of the natives on
tills occasion. See New Vancouver Journal in Washington Historical Quarterly,
vol. VI, p. 57-

Log of the Columbia 323
ing to windward, without a Stem. Found the Brig Venus
here, but Capt. Magee had sail'd.i^' No canoes off.
20. Wind favorable, weather more settled. Weigh'd at
Daylight, in company with the Venus, and stood to sea. Wind
soon haul'd in its old quarter. Employ'd beating to windward
towards Nootka Sound.
21. N. Latt. 49° 17'; W. Long. 126° 0' Wind still at
WNW. and fair weather. Saw Breakers pointi^" NW. 4
leagues, making short hanks.
22. Weather'd away Breakers point and stood towards
Nootka Sound. Observ'd the Spanish Colours flying at the
Entrance of Friendly Cove, but the tide swept us so strong
towards some breakers on the East shore, and the wind being
light oblidg'd us to Anchor in 16 fm. rocky bottom. Hoisted
our Ensign in a Wiff and fired a Gun for assistance which
was answered by the Spaniards, Soon after see several Boats
rowing towards us. Quite calm.
23. The Boats got alongside. They was sent by the Spanish
Admirall to our assistance (except one, from an English Store
Ship,^^^ under charge of Mr. Neai, the 1st Officer) . This
Ship was sent out by the British Government, with Stores
for Capt. Vancoover, who had not yet arriv'd at the Sound.
The Spanish boats was under the charge of a Pilot, who had
order to Get the Ship to the Cove, and lend every assistance.
AT ANCHOR IN NOOTKA SOUND
24. N. Latt. 49° 30'; W. Long. 126° 0' Light breeze from
the South'd and East'd. Weigh'd and came to sail, under
conduct of the Spanish Pilot, who well knew his business, and
was perfectly acquainted with the soundings and tides. Upon
passing the Spanish fort,!^^ ^t the Entrance of the Cove, we
1 59 For Nootka, as appears later.
iSoSee note 13 ante, Crespi's diary of the expedition of 1774 says it was
called Point San Estevan, out of regard for the second navigating officer." See
this diary in tlie Publications of the Historical Society of Southern California,
1891, vol. 2, part I, p. 202. The officer so honoured was Don Estevan Jose
Martinez,' who, in 1789, established the first Spanish settlement at Nootka and in
the same' year seized Meares' vessels. , , , ^, • „t
161 The Daedalus of Vancouver s squadron, comraanded by Captain JMew,
whora Ingrahara describes as "a very clever old gentleman." , ^ ,^ .
162 On Hog Island; but not that which had been erected by Martinez in
1789 That fort had been dismantled when the settleraent returned to Mexico
in the fall of 1789. This was a new one erected on the same site by Elisa m
1790. It is described in the entry of the following day as a poor affair, barely
sufficient to carry the weight of the guns.

324 John Boit
saluted with 7 Guns, which was retum'd. Towards evening
came to, in Friendly Cove (Nootka Sound). Found riding
here the Store Ship, a Spanish Sloop of War, and the Brig
Venus. The Spaniards treated us nobly, and offer'd freely
every assistance in their power. We lay in this place till the
23d August. Shall give the Minutes of our transactions during
that period.
25. N. Latt. 49° 30'; W. Long. 126° 30' Discharg'd the
Ship's Cargo and stores, and stored them in a house on shore
which the Spaniards had lent us for that purpose. ^^^ Strip'd
the Ship to a Gutline, and got the riging all on shore to repair.
The Spanish govemor seem'd highly pleas'd with the dispatch
that took place ; indeed ev'ry man in the Columbia was anxious
to get the Ship in readiness to pursue her Voyage, well know
ing that the time drew nigh when we shou'd again be sailing
towards our friends in America, and our sweet anticipation
of the joys that await us there made us use ev'ry effort. This
Spanish settlement at Nootka, contained about 50 Houses.i^*
indifferently built {except the Governor's, which was rather
grand than otherways) . There was about 200 Inhabitants, con
sisting of Spaniards and Peru Indians, but no females. Their
fort was no great thing, mounted with 6 twenty four and thirty
six pounders — the platforms would not bear the weight of
metal. There was two Botanists resided with the Governour.^^^
Capt. Gray took up his lodgings at the governor's request, at
his house.

163 Hoskins in his letter, referred to in note 155 ante, writes: "We arrived the
23rd of July, and reported our situation to the Spanish Governor, who very politely
offer'd us every assistance. He has lent us store houses for our Goods, granted
the second best house in his small Town for Capt. Gray and myself to lodge &
do our business in; and insists on our eating & drinking with him, at his house,
where we live most sumptuously."
164 This seeras an exaggeration. Ingrahara says "the village consists of 16
houses." This corresponds reasonably closely with the pictures still extant;
furtherraore it agrees fairly well with the diagram of that most interesting villai'e
which is appended to Elisa's map of the Strait of Fuca. A copy of this map will
be found, numbered K, in the Berlin Arbitration Papers, Washington 1872.
165 'This is the only reference to the presence of botanists in this unique set
tlement. Much research is still necessary before any adequate conception of the
Spanish village at Nootka Sound can be obtained, or any knowledge gathered of
the incidents in its short existence (1790-1795). In the New Vancouver Journal
(Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. 5, p. 306) it is noted that the Aransasu on
her retum to Nootka in September, 1792, "had a Botanist on board her."

Log of the Columbia 325
29. Don. Van Francisco De La Vondego,i« which was the
name of the Governor, gave a grand entertainment, at his
house, at which all the Officers of the Fleet partook. Fifty
four persons sat down to Dinner, and the plates, which was
solid silver was shifted five times, which made 270 Plates.
The Dishes, Knifes and forks, and indeed every thing else
was of Silver,ifi7 and always replaced with spare ones. There
could be no mistake in this as they never carried the dirty plates
or Dishes from the Hall where we dined (as / thought, on
purpose to let us see the quantity of plate used by Spaniards
in South America.)
31. This day got all ready to heave down, by the Spanish
Sloop of War, the Governor having granted us his permission.
A'ugust 1. Haul'd along side the Spanish Ship,i68 fix'd our
purchases to her, and soon had the Columbia keel out. But
was oblig'd to right her again, as she made too much water,
her upper works being quite weak. Capt. Gray determin'd
to give over the Idea of heaving her out, and accordingly gave
orders to prepare to lay her ashore on blocks.
2. N. Latt. 49° 30' ; W. Long. 126° 30' This day haul'd
the Ship upon the beach at high water, and placed a long round
log along her keel fore and aft, endeavouring to trip her over
it, but the Bottom being so flat, she wou'd turn keel out. Other
logs was laid, and moor'd with Cannon on the Beach, with an
intention of laying the Ship's Fore foot on them, which we
accordingly did at high water, the logs laying as far aft as
the fore Chains. This method answered our most sanguine
expectations. At low water, or half ebb, the ship's bows lay'd
four feet above the beach. In this situation we scuttled her

1 66 Don Francisco de la Bodega, y Quadra; one of the most interesting
figures in the Spanish regirae on this coast; his entrance into our history is
gripping; no reader can forget his courageous voyage in the little Santiago in
1775. He was a fit representative of the courtly Spaniard; and while he was
commandante at Nootka all visitors, of every nationality and of every kind of
vessel, unite in bearing testimony to his constant courtesy and his unfailing
kindness. 167 Ingraham records that when he dined with the Governor, Quadra, a few
days later, he had an excellent dinner and everything was served on silver. He
adds that it was Quadra's custotm to invite to dinner all commanders of vessels
regardless of rank or nationality. Even when Vancouver and Quadra visited
Maquinna at Tashees, the Spaniard took care to have the dinner served, on plate.
Vancouver's Voyage, vol. 2, p. 354, 8vo. cd. 1801; Washington Historical Quar
terly, vol. 5, p. 304.
168 Of necessity this must be the Acteva; for the Aransasu was then engaged
on the survey of Queen Charlotte Islands, under Caraaano; while the Princesa
lay at anchor guarding Fidalgo and his men at Neah Bay.

326 John Boit
Aft, so as to keep her steady in her berth, at high water. In
three days, by the assistance of the Spanish and English Car
penters, a New Stem and part of the Cutwater was put to the
Ship. Stopt the Scuttle, grav'd the Ship, and haul'd off to our
Moorings. 8. The Spaniards view'd us, with astonishment, and the
Governor observ'd that he believed we cou'd build a ship in
a month. 9. The Brig Hope, Joseph Ingrahim, arriv'd here, on the
1st from Canton,!^^ and sail'd this day on a Cruize.
10. On the 10th arrived here the ship Buttersworth,^^° from
London, Wm. Brown Commander; Ship Margaret, James
Magee, and Brig Hope, Joseph Ingrahim.
11. And on the llth arriv'd the Sloop Prince La Boo,^'^
Capt. Gordon from London. These vessells were all in the fur
trade. The Laboo was a tender to the Buttersworth.
16. The Ship Margaret^^^ put to sea, under charge of Mr.
Lamb, 1st Officer Capt. Magee residing with the Spanish
governor for the benefit of his health.
22. This Day the Columbia was ready for sea, and in fine
order. (Have painted her complete.
23. Arriv'd the English brig Three B's,^^^ Lieutenant Alder,

169 The Hope left Macao on ist April, 1792, and arrivel a:t Cox Strait (Parry
Passage), Queen Charlotte Islands, on 2nd July. She had spent the interval in
cruising and trading around those islands.
1 70 The ship Butterworth had been a French frigate of thirty gutas. She was
on the coast in 1792-3 as the "mother ship" under Captain William Brown, having
as tenders the Prince Lee Boo and tne Jackal. At Clayoquot a few days before
this arrival at Nootka, she had an encounter with the natives, in which one sea.
man was killed and two severely wounded. Captain Brown represented it as an
unprovoked attack upon his boats; but Ingraham learned from the Margaret a
totally different version in which the seamen were said to have robbed and
attempted to rob- the Indians of their . furs and in the resultant struggle and
retaliation the losses occurred; see Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. xi, p. 26.
This expedition was quite unsuccessful in obtaining furs during the season of
1792. Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. vi, p. 58. At the end of the follow
ing season the Butterworth was dispatched to England with instructions to engage
in whaling and seaHng in the South Seas and at Staten Land, where her com
mander had formed a temporary establishment. Vancouver's Voyage, vol. v, p.
354, 8vo, ed. 1801.
171 The sraall sloop Prince Lee Boo, named after a young Chief who had
been taken to England by Captain Wilson. This vessel was on the coast in
1792, 1793 and 1794, as one of the vessels of the Butterworth squadron. At the
end of the season of 1793, she, in corapany with the Jackal, sailed to China,
returning again in June, 1794. See Vancouver's Voyage, vol. v, pp. 354-5, Svo.
ed. iSoi. 1 72 According to the New Vancouver Journal, Washington Historical Quarterly,
vol. V, p. 224, Captain Magee was utilizing his sick leave in selling intoxicating
liquor. 173 The full name was Three Brothers, though the Viaje refers to her as
"El Bergantin Ingles Tresbes." This vessel was one of the few British ships
that utterly ignored the monopoly of the South Sea Company. Soon after her
arrival, following Meares' and the Americans' custora, she set up the frame of a
small sloop at Nootka. For further information, see Washington Historical Quar
terly, vol. 5, p. 301; vol, 6, p. 59 and p. 85.

Log of the Columbia 327
Commander, from London, on a trading Voyage.
BOUND TO CHARLOTTE ISLES
24. Weigh'd and came to sail, bound for Queen Charlotte
Isles, Barrells sound, those Isles being the appointed rendez
vous, for to meet the Adventure, Capt. Haswell. It is but
doing Justice to the Spaniards at Nootka sound to observe
that during our tarry among them we was treated with the
greatest hospitality, and in fact they seem'd to exert them
selves, and to feel interested in our behalf. May such fine
fellows Never be in want of the like assistance shou'd they
ever stand in need of it from the hands of any American. The
Governor wou'd Not allow Capt. Gray for to pay one farthing.
25. N. Latt. 49° 30'; W. Long. 126° 30'. Nootka sound is
as remarkable a place to know from seaward as any I know of.
At most times latheo peak^^* (a mountain) in the form of a
sugar loaf can be seen, and there is none other that at all
resembles it, on this part of the Coast. A long low point, with
high Breakers off it, makes the SE. part of the Bay.'^^ The
Western entrance of the sound runs down to a low point, with
a small round Hill just back of Friendly cove.
28. N. Latt. 51° 45'; W,. Long. 130° 30'. This day made
the SE. part of the group of Charlotte Isles. A thick fog^'^
came on, so that we cou'd not reach the sound. Employ'd
beating off and on, waiting for fair weather.
30. This day the weather clear'd and the Sloop Adventure
hove in sight standing for Barcl. [Barrells?] sound. This is
the second time we have met off the place of Rendezvous.
Saluted each other with 7 Guns. Found Capt. Haswell and
Crew all well, and had made a successful cruize. We stood

1 74 Conuma peak, a remarkable steeple-shaped mountain, 4,889 feet high,
twenty miles from the entrance. It is a most conspicuous feature.
175 Escalante point, low and rocky, raarks the eastern entrance of Nootka
Sound. The narae is by association with Escalante reef. It signifies in Spanish,
climbing, or scaling. . , ,. „ . , ¦ t .1.
176 All navigators, from the time of Juan Perez in 1774, complain ot the
thick fogs of Queen Charlotte Islands.

328 John Boit
into Port Montgomery,!^^ a small harbour to the North'd of
Barrells Sound, which the Adventure had visited before, and
her Captain named it after our famous American General
who fell before Quebec while gloriously fighting in the defence
of our liberties. Graved the Sloop in this place, and otherways
put her in fine order, to attract the eyes of the Spaniards at
Nootka, as Capt. Gray meant to sell her to them if ipossible.
Cut some spare spars at this place, and wooded and watered
the Ship for her passage to Canton. Many Natives visited
us, and brought plenty of fish but few furs. Took out the Skins
from the Sloopi^* and stow'd them away on board the Ship.
BOUND TO NOOTKA SOUND
September 13. Weigh'd and stood to sea, in company with
the Adventure, bound to Nootka sound.
21. N. Latt. 49° 30'; W. Long. 126° 30'. Abreast the
Entrance of the Sound. A Spanish Brig in sight to leeward,
which hove to and fir'd a Gun. We immediately bore off for
her. She was the Acteva of 14 Guns, with the Spanish Gov
ernor of Nootka^'' on board, bound to Peru. He told Capt.
Gray that he wou'd wait 10 days at a small Spanish settle-
tlement, in Juan De Fuca straits, where he was then going,
for to leave some orders, previous to his leaving the Coasts He
appear'd anxious to have the Sloop, and Haswell Was not back
ward in displaying her to the best advantage. Towards evening
we anchor'd in Friendly Cove, having saluted the .Spanish
Governor with 13 Guns'*" when we parted. Found riding in
the Cove His Majesty's Ships Discovery and Chatham,^^^ The

177 Haswell gives its latitude as 52° 25' north; his log shows that he was
there twice, once in May and again in August, 1792. No longitude is given (it
would be of no assistance, because of its constant inaccuracy), but it is plain
from Haswell's log that on both occasions he reached this port from Dixon
Entrance along the western coast of Queen Charlotte Islands. It was therefore
on the western coast of these islands and north of Houston Stewart (^annel.
He calls it St. Tammonies Cove, Port Montgomery; from his scattered allusions
it seems to have been a cove in a large sound. Though the latitude does not
agree, could it by any possibility haye been Ingraham^s Magee Sound? In making
a comparison it must be kept in mind that Ingraham stayed a considerable time
in Magee Sound and made a careful exaraination; Haswell appears to have looked
on it raerely as a suitable rendezvous.
178 Haswell's entry, 12th September, 1792, reads: "I delivered to Capt.
Gray 75 sea otter skins, 29 cootsacks, 137 tails, and 25 pieces."
i79 0uadra was returning, not to Peru, but to San Bias in Mexico.
180 The federal salute; see note 95 ante,
181 Vancouver's vessels, which had arrived in Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound,
28th August, 1792, after circumnavigating Vancouver Island.

Log of the Columbia 329
DHlalus. Store Ship. Capt. [Thomas] New. Ship Margaret.^'^
of Bosttm. Capt. Magee. English Brig Fens,^«3 Capt Dufiin,
English Sloop JackhaU}^ Capt. Steward, and a Spanish Line
of Battle Ship of 7A Guns. Spanish Colours stiU flying at the
fort, the Govemor having refused to give up the Sound to
Capt ^"ancoover who was authorizd % his Govemment for
to take possession of it. However the Spaniards told Van
coover that he might have that particular place where Capt.
[Jolm] Mears made his small settlement, and built a Sloc^,
which was ver} inconsiderable. Capt Vancoover insisted upon
having the whole or none. However they both agreed to let
the business remain {in statu quo), to remain friends, and
write home to their respective Courts, on the subject of dispute.
JUAN DE FUCA STRAITS
22. Weigh'd in company with the Sloop, and left Xootka
bound to Port Xe-ari^ in Juan de Fuca straiti. Fair wind and
feasant weather.
23. X. Latt. 49° 91; \\. Long. 125= 26' O «. Qose in with
Qioquot harbour. In the moming saw two Sail in the XvV.
At Meridian Tatooch's Isle-^ on the SE. entrance of the Straits
bore EJ4S. 8 or 9 leagues.
24. X. Latt 48* 3ff; W. Latt [Long.] 123= 45'. Spoke
the Spanish Brig .ictez-a. with the Governor on board. They
iS- This siip had jnst readied XK<tka, arriri;? on igth Setrtemher, 1792.
Wa^miglxm Histoocal Qtiajterly, toL vi, p . = 4.
183 The Fems ar.5 Sf. Jesepk. VaocoHver says Ae -5*-^= 2 Fortngoese brig,
coBifflaaded by Jnfcn de Bamjs Aadrede, witli Mr. DnfSii as snpercajgo, Voyag^
virf, 2, p, 3S7; and see ^a^iingtcm Hisr^rica! O^saxterly, xoL Ti, p. =€. to same
effect. F^iiaps Ihif&i, -who had beesi wi£h Meares in the telsce, naayhare T:iici.^
hfe eae frCTui ids former eoiphjyer. IhafSn on. this €CCESic^ g^ve Vaacoaver a
*Miileii account of Ihe seizures of 1789; the ^st of the letier will be fomid in
VaiiconWEr's Voyage, voL 2. p. 370 et seq., and Terbatiiii in Wa^ingtim Hi^orical
Qnarlerly, T«d- "^i, p. 52. et seq. She had arrired on :5th Septsniber. 1752-
!8i "Hie Jackal, or the Butterworth squadron. VsncD^-rer ca&s her a scromier,
bot: aH G^ers speak of her as a sloop. Ingrsham aad ciet her near the sonthem
eaid of Qneen Charlotte Islands on iTlh Jnly previTiss. and hag at Srsi ihoa^it
her to be the AdceKtur?: bnt ^x dowed Bridsli cbloors, and <hi her
nearer ^iproach he saw tiiat Ae bad a tier of ports fore and aft, fhe greatest
part of which were "taSse or only painted, yet fhey made a good aiqiearaiice at a
^stance that frr some ti=e we cmichsded Ae was a Kings Cutter or teider to
SDoie of the m^ of war CHi the coasL"
185 Xeah B^.
i86TatooA Island Srst appears in Onncan's Aetch 13th Aiqgnst, 17^. 5e
gives Ihe foUowki^ informatiQa: ''^iFeen Island or To Tooches is abbot % mile
in length; covered over with greeii grass; osi Sie West ^de Is a saaS Core
very narxtnr and only navigable fer Bo^s; I saw some Canoes go in and oot
and many TniBajia oa flie Btecfa; oc the Kz§t Side is a large village, arf from
Ihe mmiber of Onoes that conie to ns from thence, I -iipTOse it tb he wefl

330 John Boit
was much suppriz'd at our beiiig in the Straits as soon as they
was. At dark the Spanish Brig hove tb under her tops'ls.
We kept plying all night fbr our Port, and in the Morning
got safe to anchor in Co with the Sloop Adventure. Found
riding here the Spanish Ship Princessa of 64 Guns, and Brig
Hope, Capt. Ingrahim. This was a small, good harbour,i^^
situate about 5 leagues from Cape Flattery, within the straits
of De Fuca. The Spaniards had erected a Cross upon the
beach, and had about 10 Houses and several good Gardens. ^^^
Several Natives along side, and a few prime Skins was pur
chas'd {with plenty of Hne Halibut). I went with the Pinnace
to the Assistance of the Acteva, she having been oblig'd to
anchor near Cape Flattery, in a dangerous situation. When I
came on board, instead of using every effort to get clear of
Danger, they was performing Mass. However soon got under
way and stood for Port Ne-ar.'*^
25. N. Latt. 48° 35'; W. Long. 123° 30'. The Acteva
anchor'd in company. Saluted the Governor with 13 Guns,
which was return'd. Employ'd filling up our Water, and get
ting ready for our passage across the Pacific Ocean.
26. Spanish Officers from both ships, together with Capt.
Ingraham, dined on board the Columbia. Fired, on their
coming, and going away, two Foederall salutes. ,
27. Saild the Princessa for N'ootka sound, i^" Ships crew
are all in prime health. Natives constantly visit us, but they
do not like the Spaniards.

187 Ingraham had a contrary opinion. In his journal under date 28th Septem-
her, 1792, he writes. "It is 5 points of the compass open to trie sea from
WNW to NBW so that it is almost as bad as being in the centre of the straights
• and I much wonder how the Princessa road out 7 months in safety in such a
place especially as the bottom is very rocky in forming a new settlement I
sliould suppose a good Harbour was the first and most materiall thing to be sought
for." 188 Ingraham describes it thus: The settlement consisted only of a few Huts
and a tollerable good garden."
189 Ingraham states that when he and Mr. Hoskins of the Columbia visited
Quadra the latter was much vexed that the Americans had not sent their boats
to his assistance on the preceding evening. Satisfactory explanations were, how
ever, made and, with the assistance of the Americans, the Acteva was towed into
safe anchorage. He expresses in his journal great sorrow that anything having
even the semblance of inattention or neglect to one who had been so kind to them
should have happened. ^
190 The Spaniards were now, on instructions from Quadra, abandoning Nunez
Gaona, as they called the settlement at Neah Bay. It had only been established
in the preceding March. Fidalgo, who was its commandante was sailing to
Nootica to take over the command at that place, superseding Camaano, who had
heen left in charge.

Log of the Columbia 331
28. This day sold the Sloop Adventure to the Spanish Gov
emor, for 72 Prime Sea Otter Skins, worth 55 Dollars each in
Canton, which is equal to 4960$., which at 50 per Ct. advance
home, is 7440 Spanish Piasters, a good price. He wanted
her as a present to the Viceroy of Mexico. Before delivery
we took out all her provisions and stores, with a New Cable
and Anchor.
29. Saild this day the B,rig Acteva and Sloop Adventure,
under Spanish Colours, bound to Acapulco. We saluted on
their departure with 9 Guns which was return'd.
30. Weigh'd and saild from Port Near, bound across the
Straits for a Cove, call'd by us Poverty.^^^ Same evening
anchor'd, in 7 fathom. Found this harbour much snuger for
our business. The Indians brought a few Skins and plenty
of fish and some train oil, which last article we much wanted.
October 1. Employ'd wooding and watering and getting the
Ship in order. Cut many spare spars.
3. Weigh'd for the last time on the NW Coast, and left
Poverty Cove, bound for Canton in China, via Sandwich
Islands. Our feelings on this occasion are easier felt than
described. Our friends at Home and ev'ry endearing Idea rush'd
so full upon us, and made us so happy, that 't was impossible,
for a while, to get the Ship in readiness for bad weather, and
full allowance of Grog being serv'd on the occasion, made our
worthy Tars join in the general Mirth — and so we go.
N. Latt. 48° 25' ; W. Long. 123° 30'. At noon Cape Flattery
bore East 7 leagues. Steering SW. Wind NE. Soon lost
sight of the Mountains of North America.
9. N. Latt. 44° 51'; W. Long. 128° 34'; Amp'd 14° 37' E.
11. IN. Latt. 43° 7'; W. Long. 129° 5'; Amp'd 13° 17' E.
O (T. Pleasant weather. Wind at West. Ship's Crew in
health. 16. N. Latt. 34° 7'; W. Long. 138° 6'; Azi. 10° 58' E.
Pleasant gales and fair weather.
17. N. Latt. 32° 54'; W. Long. 138° 42'; Azi. 11° 46' E.
Pleasant gales and fair weather.

191 Port San Juan, on Vancouver Island, just inside the entrance of Juan de
Fuca Strait. Captain Walbram, in a manuscript note, gives its true position as lati
tude 48° 22' nortli, longitude 124° 30' west. The Indian name was Pachenat, but
Haswell in his first Log, under date 29th March, 1789, records that Captain
Gray, then in the Washington, named it 'Poverty Cove.

332 John Boit
21. N. Latt. 28° 10'; W. Long. 142° 24'; Azi. 10° 0' E.
Crew all in health, and wind and weather propitious. Took
NE. Trade winds this day.
26. N. Latt. 20° 15' ; W. Long. 150° 39' ; Azi. 6° 7' ; Amp'd
6° 38' E. Warm and pleasant, with a smooth sea.
28. N. Latt. 20° 5'; W. Long. 154° 52' * 1 Spoke the
Brig Fens, Capt. Duffan,!'^ bound to Canton. The first lieu-
tenant^^^ of the Discovery, Capt. Vancoover, was a passenger on
board this Vessell, bound home, with dispatches for Govern
ment.
SANDWICH ISLES. PACIFIC OCEAN
29. N. Latt. 20° 14'; W. Long. 154° 20'. Made the Isle
of OWhyhee,^'^'^ one of the Sandwich Isles, where the famous
Circumnavigator, Capt. James Cook was killed by the Natives.
Standing towards the Isles, it having been seen at 15 leagues
distant. 30. Hove to, for some Canoes, and purchased 1 1 Hogs from
the Natives, and plenty of vegetables, such as Sweet Potatoes,
Yams, tarro, etc. These Canoes was very neatly made, but quite
narrow. The Outrigger kept them steady, or else, I think, they
wou'd too easily upset in the Sea. The Men were fine stately
looking fellows, and the Women quite handsome. They were all
in a state of Nature, except a small covering round the middle.
Not many of the Columbia's Crew prov'd to be Josepths. Run
along very near the Isles, and hove to off Karakakoa Bay.
Some double Canoes came alongside. These was suspended
apart by large rafters, well supported. The Masts were rig'd
between the canoes, and they carried their mat sails a long
time, sailing very fast. The Shore was lined with people.
31. N. Latt. 20° 14'; W. Long. 154° 50'. Stood round the
Island and haul'd into Toaj yah yah bay,i''' and hove to. Vast
many canoes sailing in company with us. The shore made

ig2 The ostensible commander was a Portuguese, John de Barros Andrede,
Duffin being but supercargo. Further investigation may show that, like Meares'
vessels, she was merely masquerading under the Portuguese flag. The passenger
referred to was Lieutenant Mudge of the Discovery, who was carrying to England
an account of the abortive negotiations between Vancouver and Quadra. See
Vancouver's Voyage, vol. 2, pp. 377-378, Svo. ed. 1801.
193 Lieutenant Mudge? — ^W. C V,
103K Hawaii.— W. C. F.
194 Kawaihae Bay?— W. C. F.

Log of the Columbia 333
a delightful appearance, and appeared in the highest state of
cultivation. Many canoes along side, containing beautiful
Women. Plenty of Hogs and fowls, together with most of
the Tropical fruits in abundance, great quantities of Water,
and Musk, Mellons, Sugar Cane, Bread fruit, and salt was
brought for sale. The price of a large Hog was from 5 to 10
spikes — smaller ones in proportion. 6 Dunghill fowls for an
Iron Chizzle, and fruit cheaper still.
November 1. This day, having on board 93 Hogs and great
quantities of Fruits and Vegetables, we bore away from this
enchanting Island bound to Onehow,'^^^ after more Yams and
to put a Native on shore, which the Captain had taken from
that Isle on his former voyage. Pass'd the Isles of Tahousa,^^^
Rainai,i57 Mower,^^^ and Whahow,''^ left them to the North'd
of us.
2. N. Latt. 21° 59'; W. Long. 160° 0' Pass'd Atooi, and
steer'd for Yam bay in Onehow. In the morning was well
into the bay. Vast many canoes off, in one of which was
the Father and other relations of our Sandwich Island Lad.
They came on board and the meeting was very affectionate,
but still our Lad refused to go on shore and Capt. Gray did
not think proper to force him. However made his friends
many presents. Purchas'd some Hogs here, and great quan-
titys of Cocoa Nuts, with a good lot of Nice line for Rising, etc.
3. Bore off and made all sail for the Coast of China, and
soon lost sight of these beautiful Isles, the Inhabitants of which
appear'd to me to be the happiest people in the world. Indeed
there was something in them so frank and chearful that you
cou'd not help feeling prepossess'd in their favour.^oo
4. N. Latt. 19° 56'; W. Long. 163° 58' Pleasant NE.
trade winds, with smooth sea.. Crew all in health. Kill'd and
salted 17 large Hogs. We followed Capt. Cook's plan.^"! by

igS Niihau.— W. C. F.
ipSKahoolawe.— W. C. F.
107 Lanai? — ^- ^- ¦^•
198 Maui.— W. C. F.
199 Oahu.— W. C. F. , , ,. , ^ ,
200 Boit changed his opinion some three years later; sec the entries from the
log of the Union, reproduced in S. E. Morison's Boston Traders in Hawaiian
Islands, Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. xii, pp. 168-9. j „ ^
201 See its details in Cook's Third Voyage, vol. 2, p. 135, 4*0, ed. 1785, and
vol. 2, p. 13s, Svo. ed. Dublin 1784. .
Page 263, Massachusetts Historical Society.

334 Jqhn Boit
taking out the Bones, and laying the Meat, (after salting),
between two Hatches, with a heavy Weight on them, through
the Night and in the morning early, after a good examination,
pack'd it away in Barrells, using strong pickle. This method
answerd ev'ry purpose.
13. N. Latt. 15° 49' ; W. Long. 185° 25' ; E. Long. 174° 35' ;
Amp'd 13° 23' E. Keep the people employ'd cleaning furs.
24. N. Latt. 15° 50'; W. Long. 212° 29'; E. Long. 147°
31'; Azi. 9° 56' E. This is pleasant sailing, have not experi
enced a squall since leaving the Islands, and the sea quite
smooth, although a fresh NE. trade. Crew all well.
29. N. Latt. 18° 24' ; W. Long. 226° 15' ; E. Long. 133° 45' ;
Azi. and Amp'd 7° 12' E. Sea grows more rough, and the
weather a little squally.
BASHEE ISLES AND COAST OF CHINA. PAFIFIC
OCEAN
December 3. N. Latt. 20° 30' ; W. Long. 232° 28' ; E. Long.
127° 32' O d. This day, contrary to our expectation, we made
the Bashee Isles, at 10 leagues distance to the Westward. Have
experienced strong Currents in our favour, since leaving the
Sandwich Isles. As we cou'd not weather, with the wind at
NE., 't was thought best to run between Grafton and Mon
mouth Isles, bore off accordingly.
4. Fresh breeze. At 6 P. M. we were between the Islands,
doubled pretty near Grafton, and luff'd close under the lea'd
of Orange Isle. Saw a number of fires on the shore, but it
was too dark to make any observations. When clear of the
group hauld close on a wind for the Coast of China.
5. N. Latt. 21° 48'; Correct W. Long. 239° 29'; Correct
E. Long; 120° 31'; Azi. and Amp'd 2° 41' W. 16 O O * <[ «.
1 Sights.' Saw the Island bf Formosa, bearing EBN. at Mer
idian, 12 leagues. Fair NE. Monsoon.
6. N. Latt. 22° 20'; W. Long. 243° 38'; E. Long. 116° 22'.
Saw the Main land of China, bearing NW. 8 leagues, at
Meridian above 100 sail of fishing boats in sight. Soundings
23 fathom sand and ouze.
7. N. Latt. 22° 7'; W. Long. 244° 57'; E. Long. 115° 3'.

Log of the Columbia 335
Pass'd the Island, or rather Rock of Pedro Branca, (or
Blanco) ,^°^'^°^^ at Dayhght. It was of a conical shape and ap
pear'd perfectly white. At Noon, the Grand Lema Island bore
WSW., 5 leagues. Hundreds of fishing boats in sight. At 3
P. M. pass'd the Lema, leaving it on our larboard) hand. At 6
got a Pilot orii board, who agreed to carry us to Macao roads,
for 25 Dollars.. Stood between the Lema Islands all night, with
a light breeze. ,
MACAO ROADS. COAST OF CHINA
8. This morning early anchor'd in Macao roads, 14 fm.
muddy bottom. Not liking our situation weigh'd and shifted
our berth nigher to Macao, and anchor'd in 4yi fm. Mud. The
Fort at Macao bearing S. 8° 8' W. 4 miles, and the outermost
of the Nine Isles N. 8° E. Capt. Gray went to Macao in the
pinnace. A Black fellow came on board and inform'd us that
Capt. Kendrick, in the Lady Washington, lay in Lark's Bayj^"^
and that the Brig had been dismasted in the Chinese seas
about two months before, in a Tuffoon, being again bound for
the NW. Coast. Kendrick was refitting his vessell again.
9. Capt. Gray return'd on board, he inform'd us that Capt.
Kendrick saild for the NW. in September last, in company with
a small tender he had fitted in Macao. He was out four days
when the Tuffoon overtook him. The Brig laid on her Beam
ends for some time before they cut away the Masts. She then
righted, and the gale abating steer'd for Macao. The whole
surface of the sea was cover'd with the Wrecks of Chinese
Boats, and many of the poor fishermen was still hanging to
pieces of the Boats. Capt. Kendrick pick'd up above thirty
of the poor fellows, and was obliged to pass a great many
that) he cou'd not assist. He arriv'd in Larks Bay, the 7th
day after the Gale.^"'* A Macao Boat came along side, with
202 Pedra Branca. — W. C. F.
2025^ The Columbia is following the usual route from the Sandwich (Hawaiian)
Islands to China. Meares sa^s: "The land generally made on the coast of China
is about Pedro Blanco or White Rock." Meares' Voyages, 4to. ed., p. 57.
203 Lark's Bay — sometimes called Dirty Butter Bay — a small harbour lying
three or four leagues southwest of Macao, the Portuguese settlement near the
mouth of the Canton River. The object of lying there was to save the payment
of duty on the cargo, as the bay was out of the reach of Chinese authority at
that time; see Delano's Voyages, p. 43.
204 It is by such scattered references as this that, by degrees, the intensely
interesting story of Kendrick is being pieced together.

336' John Boit
two European gentlemen, and purchas'd of us 21 pistale of
Iron at 7$- per pistal.^os A River pilot took charge for 40$ to
take the Ship to Whampoa. 2°^
10. Weigh'd, with the wind at NE. early in the moming
making slow progress ; in the evening anchor'd below Lintin
bar, in 5 fathom. Next morning weigh'd and beat up to the
Boca Tigris,^"** and anchor'd in 17 fm.
CANTON RIVER, CHINA
12. This day arriv'd to our Moorings at Whampoa, having
been obliged to beat the whole way from Macao roads; Found
riding here 47 sail of European Ships, and six American Do.
Capt. Gray went to Canton, in the pinnace. We lay'd at this
place till the 2d of February, during which time we give the
Ship a complete overhaul from her keel to the truck. We-
haul'd the Ship a shore, on Dutch Island beach, and gr-a&ed.
This business cost 150$ (paid to the Proprietors of the beach).
The whole expence accruing to the Columbia at Canton
amounted to the enormous sum of 7000 Spanish $. Th© other
Furs were landed at Canton, and delivered to the Hong Mer--
chants, for 90,000$, average 45 Dollars each. The Land furs
sold qiiite low, in proportion.
The Ship was laden with a full Cargo of Teas and Nanken
with a small proportion of Sugar and China Porcelain^ 'Tis
the Custom in this place to engage with a Contractor to- supply
the Ship, with provisions and other stores. They call thern-
selves Com.padores. You must give them a certain Sum, gen
erally 150$ before they'll undertake. The first of these fellows
that was engag'd run away with 250$ in our debt. This Money
was advanced him previous, to our having a Security Merchant;
otherways it wou'd have been recover'd. These security Mer-.
chants^o^ ev'ry ship must have before they can transact busings,

205 A picul, a common weight in the Orient and of 133 1-3. pounds. See
Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. xii, p. 170. Capt. Cook called it a pecul, and
says it contains one hundred catty and that each catty is eighteen ounces. His
pecul would thus be ii2j^ poimds.
206 Sometimes spelled Wampu and' in numerous other forms. It was the port
of Canton and was situate- on the Canton River on the opposite side from Canton
and about ten miles below.
206 }4 Part of the estuary of the Canton River. See an illustration in Meares'
Voyages, 4to. ed., p. 11.
207 For reinarks upon the method of' carrying on this trade- and the hamper
ing restrictions imposed on it hy the Chinese Government, see- Marohand's Voyage,
vol. 2, p. 96, et seq., 1801 ed., and also Dixon's Voyage, Lettera xliv and xiv.

Log of the Columbia 337
as the govemment looks to them for the Amount of Duties.
Capt. Gray generally staid at Canton and the Officers by turns-,
and ev'ry man on board had two Days liberty allowed him.
We had a building, made of Bamboo and Cover'd with Matts,
nearly abreast the Ship on the Banks of the River. This was
found by the Compadore and answer'd very well for to put
the Ship's stores in while careening and loading. An Officer
and gang of hands was station'd at this place, as a guard.
There was two large boats station'd along side the Ship, with
Customs house officers on board, the whole time we lay'd in
the river. A family resided in each boat (they being com
pletely shelter'd). The Manderine had an apartment by him
self. 1793, January 1. Rec'd a letter from Capt. Kendrick, who
inform'd us of the death of Messrs. Wood and Stodderd, two
young men of Boston. I believe they liv'd too fast for the
climate. When we arriv'd at Whampoa there was upwards of a
dozen fine Hogs on deck, which we had reserv'd for the Passage
home. The Rasscles of the Chinese found means to throw
them some poisinous stuff, which kill'd the whole of them.
But we took notice as soon as they was thrown overboard
they was eagerly seiz'd, and no doubt was feasted upon by the
poor of the River; indeed nothing escap'd their clutches — the
Entrails of Poultry, or Dead Rats serv'd equally alike to
appease these half starv'd wretches that constantly surrounds
the shipping. However I always remark'd that they was very
nice in their Cookery, and Rice was always a part of ev'ry
Mess. No Indians we had ever visited during the Voyage was
more complete in the Art of thieving than the Chinese of the
lower order, on this River. And in fact they appear'd to me
to be the greatest Villains in the Universe. (These remarks
are only as respects the common people.) The Chinese Gen
tlemen is of a very different character, and indeed I was highly
pleas'd with the polite attention shown to strangers at Canton,
by the Mandarines and Merchants at that place ; indeed among
themselves they appear to stand upon the nicest Etiquette.
The Chinese merchant is very particular in his business, and

338 John Boit
very nice in his calculations, and no part of his affairs appear
to be unnotic'd by him. In making a bargain they are very
shrewd; when closed they are faithful as to quantity, but for
quality you must be constantly on your guard or else 'tis certain
the Goods will not turn out as expected, and the only satis
faction you will get from them is that you ought to have
looked sharper, and at the same [time] will try to console you
by this remark, that on another Voyage you will be better
acquainted with the mode of doing business at Canton. Upon
the whole, the Candour that is about the Chinese merchant
makes some amends for the general complaint against them,
that they will cheat you, if they can — therefore your business
is to see that they shall not.
'Tis surprizing to observe the business that is going on in
the Suburbs of Canton; the streets are generally thronged
with people, all busily engag'd in their several avocations ; the
Shops well stock'd with Goods, and appear to meet with en
couragement. Few Women are to be seen. These (if Chinese)
have the small crippled feet, the Ancle looking like an Horse's
hoof. If Tarter, the feet is of the natural growth. So much
has been said about Canton, and the Manners and Customs of
the Chinese, that 'tis needless for me to make any further re
marks on the subject.
FROM CANTON TOWARDS THE STRAITS OF BANCA
February 2. This day the Pilot came on board and took
charge. Unmoor'd and stood down the River. Left but 7
.Ships behind, all English and Swedes.
4. Anchor'd this day below the Bars. Wind gradually in
our teeth, work along with the tides.
6. Anchor'd just above the Boca Tigris; in the Night the
Chinese rasscles cut the cable, although we kept a good watch.
Let go another, and brought up. In the morning, the Buoy
being taken away, cou'd not recover the Anchor. Therefore
left it with 9 fm. Cable.
7. Pass'd the Boca Tigris, and stood for Macao roads.
8. Ran through Macao Roads, and stood to sea. The Pilot
left us. Took a departure from the Macao Fort, it lying in

Log of the Columbia 339
Latitude 22° 13' North, and Longitude 113° 52' East of
London. Some Chinese junks in company. Find the Ship re
quires one Pump pretty steady to keep her free. However
as it has been a steady leak for some time it is not look'd upon
as a serious affair. The Wind prevails from the Easterly board,
and is very squally.
The Ship's Crew are all well and hearty, and looking for
ward, with anxious solicitude, to a happy meeting of Sweet
hearts and Wives. How can we be otherways than happy,
when anticipating the joys that awaits us there! I^^^
9 N. Lat. 19° 57'; W. Long. 246° 39'; E. Long. 113° 21';
Azi. 1° 43' W. Wind at SE. Pleasant weather. Two Chinese
Junks in company.
10. N. Lat. 19° 35'; W. Long. 245° 44'; E. Long. 114°
16'; -Amp'd 0° 43' W. Wind SSW. Junks in company. Very
pleasant, light airs.
12. N. Lat. 17° 31'; W. Long. 246° 35'; E. Long. 113° 25'.
Azi. 0° 48' W. Wind SE. and pleasant weather. See Boobies
often. 14. N. Lat. 15° 2'; W. Long. 246° 14'; E. Long. 113° 46'.
Took the wind at NE., which I suppose is the Monsoon.
18. N. Lat. 9° 44'; W. Long. 250° 48'; E. Long. 109° 12'.
At Midnight saw a small Isle bearing SWBS. 1 league, and
soon after see Pulo Sapata, bearing SBE. 2 leagues to the
North'd. At 6 A. M. bore off and made sail. Wind ENE.
Cou'd not weather Pulo Sapata. Pass'd two miles to the West
ward of it. When the Isle bore East, a large White Rock or
Isle bore NNW., 6 or 7 leagues distant. At 9 was clear of
Sapata,^''^* and see no dangers in the track we pursued, although
I believe 't was quite an unfrequented one. This Sapata Isle
is very properly named, as it has every appearance of a Shoe —
after which it is called in Malay. Bore off to the west'd with
an intention of striking soundings off Pulo Condore. Pulo
Sapata, Latitude is 10° 4', and 109° 10' E.
19. N. Lat. 8° 4'; W. Long. 252° 4'; E. Long. 107° 56'.

2o8 The course of the Columbia from Canton to and through the Straits of
Sunda is that followed by the vessels of the day. Any one wishing details can
find them readily in Dixon's Voyage and in Portlock's Voyage, and even in
Captain Cook's Third Voyage,
2o8^ See Captain Cook's Third Voyage, 4to. ed. 1785* vol. 3, p. 449, and Svo.

340 John Boit
Regular NE. Monsoon. Soundings at Noon 26 fathom, fine
sand. 20. N. Lat. 6° 9' ; W. Long. 252° 46' ; E. Long. 107° 14'.
Soundings at Noon, 32 fm., fine sand.
21. N. Lat. 4° 28'; W. Long. 253° 23'; E. Long. 106° 37';
Azi. 1° 18' E. Soundings at Noon 45 fm., steady Monsoon.
22. N. Lat. 3° 0'; W. Long. 255° 5'; E. Long. 104° 55'.
The Islands of Pulo Timon, Aore, and Tissang^o^-zopj^ jn sight
to the Southward. At Noon Pulo Aore bore SBW>^ 10
leagues. Soundings 35 fathom.
23. N. Lat. 0° 56'; W. Long. 254° 20'; E. Long. 105° 40'.
Soundings at Noon 35 fm.. Sand and Mud.
24. S. Lat. 0° 44'; W. Long. 254° 46'; E. Long. 105° 14'.
This day saw Pulo Taya to the westward. At Noon Pulo
Taya^i" bore WNW. 6 leagues, the Seven Islands, SBE. Ex
perience a current to the Southward this 24 hours, the Mon
soon moderate.
25. S. Lat. 1° 43'; W. Long. 255° 9'; E. Long. 104° 51'.
Pass'd between Taya and the Seven Isles, distance from Seven
Isles about 4 leagues. More Islands hove in sight to the SE.
At Sunset saw land, which we took for Monopin Hill. Laid
off and on through the Night under short sail. Soundings
from 8 to 16 fathom. At daylight Monopin Hill bore SBE,
7 leagues. Bore off. At Meridian Monopin Hill bore Ej^N
and the Sumatra shore WSW., the ship nearest the Banca
Shore,2ii strong currents to the Southward. Soundings 18
fathom.
STRAITS OF BANCA
26. S. Lat. 2° 43'. Enter'd the Straits of Banca, and stood
to the SE. At 5 P. M. Monopin Hill bearing NNW, the Ship
being J4 nearest to the Banca shore from Sumatra on. We
ed. 1784. Dublin, vol. 3, p. 449. See also Dixon's Voyage, 2nd ed. 1789, p. 323.
209 These are evidently the islands mentioned by Captain King as Pulo
Timoan, Pulo Puisang and Pulo Aor. See Cook's Third Voyage, vol. 3, p.
465, et seq.
201^1/2 Tioman, Aor and Pemangil or Tingy? — ^W. C. F.
210 Saya.— W. C. F.
211 In Marchand's Voyage, vol. 2, p. i, among the plans and sketches, will
be found one showing the tracks of --ome eight ships through the straits between
Banca and Billiton.

Log of the Columbia 341
shoal'd the water very sudden from 10 to 3 fathoms, rocks,
bore off to the South and West, and soon deep'd it again. This
must have been on the Fredrick Hendrik Shoal.
In the evening came to on the Sumatra shore, 9 fm. Mud,
strong tides. 3d point bore EBS. 2 leagues.
At daylight got under way, and stood down straits. At 10
abreast the Nanka Isles, a number of Malay proas in sight.
At 1 1 A. M. a dangerous shoal bore West 1 league, high
breakers. At Noon observ'd as above. 1st pt. bore SBE. 4
leagues. 27. S. Lat. 4° 21'; W. Long. 253° 43'; E. Long. 106° 17'
0 (T. Winds from NW. and pleasant. At 2 P. M. pass'd a
Moorish Sloop, at anchor. She was strongly man'd and ^rm'd.
I believe she was a Pirate. Many Proas about. At Sunset
the Isle of Lucepara bore SEBE 3 leagues, and 1st point on
Sumatra, SWBS. Pass'd nearest to the Sumatra Shore, the
shoalest water 4j4 fm. and when through deep'd it to 12 and
14 fm. A strong tide in favour. At Noon observ'd as above.
28. S. Lat. 4° 39'; W. Long. 253° 50'; E. Long. 106°
10' * d. Depth of Water, from 10 to 14 fm. throughout these
24 hours. Wind from the West'd, and very dark weather.
Bound towards the Straits of Sunda.
March 1. S. Lat. 5° 9'. At sunset see the Two Sisters2i2
Isles to the Southward, wind to the SW. and very light. Sound
ings from 12 to 14 fm. At dark came to off the Sumatra
shore, at 2i/^ leagues distant, 9j^ fm. Mud. In the morning
got under way. At Noon observ'd Lat. as above, the Sisters
bearing SSE. 2 miles.
2. S. Lat. 5° 25'. Wind at West. Soundings throughout
the 24 hours from 12 to 15 fm. Found these Isles of Sisters
to be surround'd with Dangerous Reefs. In the evening came
to in 12 fm. Muddy bottom. Hogs point on Sumatra in sight
bearing South 11 leagues, and North Island SWBSj^W. In
the morning weigh'd and stood towards North Isle. At Noon
observ'd as above.
AT NORTH ISLE AND STRAITS OF SUNDA
3. Winds moderate and cloudy, working towards North

212 Two Brothers?— W. C. F.

342 John Boit
Isles Roads. At sunset came to in the Roads, 15 fm. muddy
bottom. Pass'd several Turtle and Water Snakes between the
Sisters and our anchorage. The two ships shew English
Colours. In the morning early shifted our berth nearer the
watering place, and at 7 A. M. anchor'd in 15 fm. Hoisted
out all the Boats, and dispatch'd them for water. The ships
that lay in the Road was an English 64, Capt. Gore^'^ and the
Indostan India Company Ship, Capt. Mackintosh. The Lion
had on board Mr. Macartney,2i4 a Minister from the British
Government to the Court of Pekin. We took Dispatches for
them to leave at 5"^. Helena. Towards evening these ships
sail'd for Batavia. Two Dutch Guard of Coasters anchor'd
in company with us. By night we had fill'd up all our water
and purchas'd a good quantity of Poultry and Fruit of the
Malays at the Beach. I landed, with the charge of our boats,
found above 200 Malays round the watering place. They was
completely arm'd, with Creases, (or Daggers), but was quite
friendly. However I did not allow the Boats to touch the
beach and only let 6 men beside myself land, and swam the
water casks off to the boats, when fill'd. This method I thought
but prudent, as the Malays had kill'd one of the Lion's crew,
while washing cloaths at the brook. I cannot say that I experi
enced the most agreeable sensations while on this duty.
4. Employ'd variously. Got a good quantity of Wood
from North Isle. The watering place being on Sumatra, we
see no Natives on North Isle.
5. Weigh'd and sail'd from North Island Roads, bound
through Sunda Straits, pass'd the Qepthan Isles and Stroon
Rock, upon which was high breakers. Pass'd it on the lar
board hand. At Meridian Crackatoa Isle bore SSW. 4 miles,
sounding 20 fm. St. Tamanies Isle NNE. Wind SSW.
6. S. Lat. 6° 2'. Wind from SW. to NW. and very squally
weather, with heavy rain. Turning to windward between
Princes Island and Crokatore and in the Night came very near
depositing the Ship on the Qu Klip rocks. However good
luck prevail'd. Crew all in health.
7. S. Lat. 6° 39'. At Meridian Princes Isle bore East and

213 Erasmus Gower. — W. C. F.
214 George Macartney, Earl Macartney (1737-1806). — W. C. F.

Log of the Columbia 343
Java Head ESE. 5 leagues. Wind from NW. Stood to the
southward. 8. S. Lat. 7° 13'; W. Long. 255° 36'; E. Long. 104° 24'.
Steady NW. Monsoon and pleasant.
9. S. Lat. 8° 4'; W. Long. 255° 47'; E. Long. 104° 13';
Amp'd 1° 24' East. Wind WSW. and squally weather.
13. S. Lat. 10° 47'; W. Long. 257° 40'; E. Long. 102° 20'
O d. This day took the SE. trade winds after having experi
enced the NW. Monsoon quite variable from SSW. to NNW.,
and weather much unsettled, with plenty of rain and a con
tinual swell from the Southward. Many Boobies about us.
20. S. Lat. 15° 32'; W. Long. 270° 16'; E. Long. 89° 44';
Azi. 1° 54' E. This is an uncommon Variation for the place.
Have had fine weather since taking the SE. Trades.
27. S. Lat. 17° 1'; W. Long. 280° 57'; E. Long. 79° 3'.
Have had the wind from the west'd these three days past, with
squally weather. This day it drew to the SE. again. Caught
several Dolphin.
30. S. Lat. 16° 32'; W. Long. 286° 5'; E. Long. 73° 55';
Azi. 4° 38' W. Pleasant SE. Trade winds.
April 1. S. Lat. 16° 55'; W. Long. 289° 25'; E. Long. 70°
35'; Azi. 7° 36' W. Have experienced a little Thunder and
Lightning, for several days at intervals.
3. S. Lat. 18° 52' ; W. Long. 295° 0' ; E. Long. 65° 0' ; Azi.
14° 0' W. Fresh trades and Hazy weather.
SAW THE ISLE OF RODERIGUE AND MAURITIUS.
SOUTHERN OCEAN
4. S. Lat. 19° 37' ; W. Long. Corrected 297° 10' ; E. Long.
62° 50' O d. This day made the Isle of Roderigue bearing
SW. The Ship having experienced a current to the West'd
since leaving the Straits of Sunda. Found this Island to be
surround'd with dangerous Reefs — the one on its NW. extends
many miles into the Sea.
5. S. Lat. 19° 44'; W. Long. 299° 11'; E. Long. 60° 49';
Azi. 10° 4' W. Amp'd 9° 58' W. Wind from the south'd
and pleasant.
7. S. Lat. 20° 36' ; W. Long. 302° 19' ; E. Long. 57° 41'.

344 John Boit
Saw the Isle of France at daylight. At noon the South pt.
of Mauritius bore WNW, 8 leagues, very high uneven land.
8. S. Lat. 21° 36'; W. Long. 303° 38'; E. Long. 56° 22'.
Pleasant trade winds. Saw the Isle of Bourbon. At noon it
bore NW. 10 or 12 leagues. Exceeding mountainous.
10. S. Lat. 24° 4' ; W. Long. 307° 55' ; E. Long. 52° 5' ;
Azi. 18° 51' W. Fresh SE. trades and squally. Crew all well.
14. S. Lat. 28° 2'; W. Long. 315° 59'; E. Long. 44° 1'.
Azi. 22° 25' O <r O *. Wind still at SE. and pleasant
weather. 17. S. Lat. 30° 41'; W. Long. 323° 44'; E. Long. 36° 16'
O d. This day the SE. trades left us, and immediately took
the wind from NW.
19. S. Lat. 29° 32'; W. Long. 325° 49'; E. Long. 34° 11';
Azi. and Amp'd 23° 50' W. O C O * 16 O <! Sights. Wind
at SW. and pleasant cool weather. Current setting to the NE.
21. S. Lat. 29° 37'; W. Long. 326° 48'; E. Long. 33° 12';
Azi. 25° 30' W. Wind from west, and pleasant.
23. S. Lat. 31° 11'; W. Long. 328° 20'; E. Long. 31° 40';
Azi. and Amp'd 27° 56' W. Wind from the Eastward. Ex
perience a strong current setting to the North.
28. S. Lat. 33° 58'; W. Long. 336° 13'; E. Long. 23° 47';
Amp'd 28° 28' W. Have had much blowing weather for some
time. This day saw the land about Muscle Bay,^^' at 11
leagues distance. At Noon Cape Talhado bore NW. The cur
rent has changed, and now sets strong to the SW. Wind
from the Westward.
OFF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE
29. S. Lat. 34° 12'; W. Long. 337° 6'; E. Long. 22° 54'.
Soundings 45 fm. . Black sand, 2j^ leagues from land, many
smoakes on shore. At Noon the land in sight bore from North
to ENE., a strong current in favour. Wind right a head.
30. S. Lat. 34° 22'; W. Long. 338° 3'; E. Long. 21° 57'
O ([. Many Gannetts and some seals round. Pass'd Cape
.St. Brass, saw the 7 Hills, and a number of Fires on the shore
through the Night. Generally keep about 5 leagues from the
Coast. Wind a head. So ends.
Tis Mossel Bay.— W. C. F.

Log of the Columbia 345
May 1. S. Lat. 34° 49' ; W. Long. 340° 9 ; E. Long. 19° 51' ;
Amp'd 25° 18' W. Land at 10 leagues distance, 75 fm. sand
and shells. A current to the S & W.
2. S. Lat. 34° 29'; W. Long. 340° 27'; E. Long. 19° 33';
Azi. 26° 24' W. Wind steady from the Westward, not even
allowing us a tolerable slant. Sounding 54 fm. grey sand with
shells. Keep an offing generally of about 6 or 7 leagues, the
land very mountainous in our present situation. At Noon the
land 5 leagues distance, 57 fm., fine grey sand and shells.
3. S. Lat. 34° 32'; W. Long. 337° 30'; E. Long. 22° 30'
O 1. Fresh gales, employ'd working to windward.
4. S. Lat. 35° 1'; W. Long. 340° 0'; E. Long. 20° 0' O 1.
At length, thank God, the wind chang'd to the Eastward, made
all sail, haul'd more to the Southward to clear Cape Lagullas.^^^
5. S. Lat. 34° 40'; W. Long. 340: 30'; E. Long. 19° 30'
O d. Saw the Table land and Gunners Quoin to the East
of False Bay. At Noon Cape Point bore NW'd 10 leagues.
Wind SE. Bore off to the North'd and West'd.
9. S. Lat. 31° 29'; W. Long. 344° 39'; E. Long. 15° 21';
Azi. 22° 0' W. Wind from the Westward.
10. S. Lat. 30° 24'; W. Long. 346° 28'; E. Long. 13° 32';
Azi. 21° 40' W. Wind at SW. and fair weather. Crew all
in health.
13. S. Lat. 27° 7'; W. Long. 350° 52'; E. Long. 9° 8';
Amp'd 20° 34' W. O d. Winds still from SW to NW.
16. S. Lat. 24° 27'; W. Long. 353° 1'; E. Long. 6° 59';
Azi. & Amp'd 20° 26', 19° 22' W. O « * <r. Winds steady
from the Westward.
17. S. Lat. 24° 27'; W. Long. 353° 16'; E. Long. 6° 44';
O <l. Amp'd 20° 30'. Tight winds for men in a hurry, steady
at NW.
20. S. Lat. 20° 9' ; W. Long. 357° 3' ; E. Long. 2° 57'. This
day took the SE. trade winds box'd her away for St. Helena.
21. Pass'd the Meridian of London.
ST. HELENA ISLAND
25. S. Lat. 15° 54'; W. Long. 5° 46'. Saw the Island of
St. Helena at Sunset. Hove to for the night. Early in the

2i6 Agulhas.— W. C. F.

346 John Boit
morning sent a boat in to ask permission of the Govemor to
anchor in the Bay. At 9 the Boat return'd, and the officer
reported favorably. Bore off, and at 10 anchor'd in Chapell
Vally bay, in 14 fm. mud and sand, the Church bearing SE.
Found riding here several English India and Whale Ships —
waiting for Convoy. At this place we first heard of the War
and troubles in Europe, and that poor Louis was a head shorter.
Capt. Gray landed to visit the Governor. Employ'd watering.
The Lieutenant Governor (by name Robinson) paid us a visit.
He appear'd to be an excellent man and was anxious to obtain
curiositys from us, to put in his Museum. He appear'd grati-
fy'd with the Collection that was present'd him. I must con
fess that I was agreeably surpriz'd on landing at James Town,
for from the appearance it has from the Ship at anchor you
feel prepossessed against it, but to me, when on shore, 'twas
quite a pleasant place, and the sight of an English Lady made
my heart feel all in an uproar — and alas ! the poor Sandwich
Isle Girls were entirely forgot. So it is, and we cannot help it.
26. S. Lat. 15° 54'; W. Long. 5° 46'. Finish'd watering,
and got ready for sea. I made an excursion in company with
a Brother Officer to view the Company's Garden, and was
amply rewarded for my trouble. 'T was kept in fine order.
St. Helena had been visited by a famine, not long since, which
carried off the greatest part of their stock and greatly dis-
tress'd the inhabitants. Consequently cou'd not procure much
refreshments for the Ship.
The Island to the windward makes a most rugged appear
ance, and indeed in the Bay 't is not much mended but to
leeward 'tis quite pleasant and the roads — though the work of
Art cheifly — are far from being bad. The Inhabitants are
very polite to strangers, and in short no Man after a long
voyage ought to pass this pleasant and agreeable place with
out stopping. You get the Water with great ease, as its con-
vey'd to the Port by pipes under ground. You fill with a Hose,
and are not oblig'd to take the Casks from the Boat, but in
case you do, there is a Crane on the pier to load with. Shou'd
have sail'd this evening but 'tis against the rules of the Port
to sail after sunset.

Log OF the Columbia 347
BOUND FOR BOSTON
27. S. Lat. 15° 34' : A\- Long. 6° 15'. Saild at daylight, and
stood to the N^^^, with pleasant sensations enough at what
awaits us in that direction.
28. S. Lat. 14° 33' : \\'. Long. 7° 14' Azi. 12° 6' W. O d.
Pleasant trade winds and fair weather.
June 3. S. Lat. 8° 32'; W. Long. 15° 9' O d * 1 Azi.
& Amp'd. 11° 2' ^^¦., 10° 50' W. Pass'd the Isle of Assencion
about midnight, at 2 miles distance.
7. S. Lat. 1° 22'; ^^'. Long. 22° 10'. Azi. 11° 38' W. O 1
Plenty of fish about the Ship, and a few Birds.
9. N. Lat. 1° 10' ; W. Long. 22° 33' : Amp'd 7° 41' W. * 1
This is the fourth time the Equator has been cross'd during the
Voyage. 16. N. Lat. 6° 0' ; W. Long. 30° 38'. Azi. 6° 48' W. O d.
Dull times. \\'inds very light and baffling.
20. N. Lat. 7° 28' ; W. Long. 33° 26' ; \'ariation 2° 26' W.
0 d. This day took the NE. trade winds, having lost the
SE. trades in Lat. 4° 30' North. Winds between have gen
erally been from the West'd but very light.
22. N. Lat. 9° 58' : W. Long. 36° 49' ; Azi. 2° 26' W. Pleas
ant trade winds. Employ'd painting ship, etc.
24. N. Lat. 12° 38'; W. Long. 41° 0'; Amp'd 3° 7' W.
Pleasant trade winds. Employ'd painting ship, etc.
27. N. Lat. 17° 55'; W. Long. 46° 36'; Azi. 4° 36' W.
Generally fresh winds. No Birds, or Fish.
30. N. Lat. 22° 11'; W. Long. 51° 2'; Azi. & Amp'd 3°
10' W. O d
16 O d Sights
* d
Gentle trades and fair weather. Several sail pass'd at a dis
tance. July 2. N. Lat. 24° 29'; W. Long. 53° 11'; Azi. 2° 46' W.
O d. Spoke an English Brig, under American colours, from
New London, bound to Grenada, loaded with stock. Was
oblig'd to fire several shot a head of him before he wou'd stop.
Purchas'd out of her many Sheep Hogs etc., with two tierces

348 John Boit
Bread. This was quite a seasonable Supply, as we had been
eating maggotty bread for this some time.
5. N. Lat. 25° 33'; W. Long. 56° 13'. Spoke two Sloops
from Portland for Guadal [oupe] .
8. N. Lat. 28° 16'; W. Long. 59° 35'; Variation 1° 28'
E. O d. This day the NE. trade wind left us, took it from
the Southward.
18. N. Lat. 40° 17'; W. Long. 65° 15'; Variation 14° 55'
W. O d * d. Spoke the Brig Betsey from New York, Wm.
Williams Master, bound to Amsterdam. Have experienc'd
much blowing weather from the North and West since leaving
the Trades, and generally squalls of rain. Ship's Crew are all
in health, but anxious to get home, as the Ship's provisions have
grown quite bad and but little of it left.
20. N. Lat. 40° 23'; W. Long. 67° 51'; Azi. & Amp'd 12°
17' W. Winds from the Northward.
21. N. Lat. 40° 29'; W. Long. 68° 35'; Azi. 7° 16' W.
Dull times for men in a hurry. The Columbia is in fine order,
having given the rigging a complete overhaul since leaving
St. Helena. Rounded to and got soundings 67 fm. fine black
and white sand.
22. N. Lat. 42° 11'; W. Long. 68° 45'. At Sunset
sounded, in 38 fm. gray sand. Spoke a Sloop from Newbury
port, bound to the West Indies, told us Cape Cod bore NW.
30 leagues. At Midnight shoald our water pretty sudden, from
20 to 15, 12, 10 and 8 fm., fine white sand on Georges Shoal;
hauld to the East and soon deep'd it again to 30 fm. At Noon
Latt. as above, soundings in 40 fathom. Wind from the WSW.
Hard luck.
24. Lower 'd the yawl and sent her on board a fishing
Schooner in sight to the west'd, it being nearly calm. At
Sunset the boat return'd and Officer reported that the Skipper
of the Schooner cou'd not spare any salt provisions, but sold
us 3 Bar'l Salt Mackarell and about 300 Ship Biscuit. These
last were very grateful. Divided them fore and aft among
the Crew. A breeze sprang up from the Eastward pt., all sail,
and at daylight saw Cape Cod bearing SW. at 6 leagues, and
the Gurnett WBS, the land abreast us on the South Shore, 4

Log of the Columbia 349
leagues distance. Several sail in sight. Employ'd turning to
Windward, the wind having shifted to the NW.
ARRIVED AT BOSTON
25. Light breezes and pleasant weather. At 1 P. M. nearly
abreast of Cohassett Rocks, almost calm. At Sunset we had
got too near to Hassett Ledges, by reason of the tide. How
ever a small breeze sprang up and we san'd off. At daylight
Boston Light bore WBN. 3 leagues distant. At 8 A. M. a
pilot came on board and took charge to take the Ship to Boston.
At Meridian pass'd the Light house, with a light air from the
Eastward. At 6 we pass'd Castle William, and gave a federal
salute, which was return'd. A fine Breeze at SE. At 7 an
chored off the Long wharfe in the Stream and saluted the
town, with 11 Guns which was return'd from the Wharf es,
with three welcome Huzzas.
^^ At making Boston Light, from which place we took
our departure, we have just made 360 degrees of Longitude
West, which is the Circumference of our Globe — of course we
have lost one complete day. It was Friday at Boston, and
Thursday with us. 'Tis impossible to express our feelings at
again meeting with our friends. But the loss of an affection
ate and much lov'd Sister, during my absence, was a great
obstacle to the happiness I shou'd otherways have enjoy'd.
So Ends the Remarks on Columbia's Voyage. John Boit.
Supplementary Note on the Identification of Port Tempest and
Massacre Cove.
The identification of Port Tempest and Massacre Cove is a subject that has
attracted much attention; many have tried to solve it, but none of these solutions
have been accepted by the students of Pacific Coast history. Professor E. S.
Meany has prepared a short but interesting note upon this difficulty, which will
be found in the Washington Historical Quarterly, vol. xii, p. 15. In such cir
cumstances the identification of Port Tempest with the western end of Tongass
Narrows or Revillagigedo Channel, is offered with deference; it is not a case
for dogmatizing; it is essentially a case in which reasons must be given for the
faith which is held. ..,,.», • ^ j tt h' t r
In this search Bolt's journal is of little assistance; and Haswell s Log unfor
tunately does not commence until August, just as the Co/«mbia _ is preparing
to leave the ill-fated shore. Hoskins, very fortunately, is quite full m his account
of the two spots and Brown's Sound in general. At the outset it must be prem
ised that the latitude and longitude of the early traders, with the single 'exception
V^^i^ ?i-er^*lor"to%f fec^et IfkTtts^^ onhlTn=d°tTatrs?fr'e
°°'^i^ ^go^ttjiiil^S^loTst^'thl^SS^^r Cumshewa Inle^^ Queeij Char
lotte Islands, on ist August. Hoskins gives her courses thereafter; but Bolt's

350 John Boit
statement that she stood along the shore about three or four leagues from land
shows that it was the mainland — the depths he gives could not be gotten at that
distance from the Queen Charlotte Islands' shore. Through Hecate Strait, up
which she is sailing, there is a current of one to two knots in a northeasterly
direction. Thick fog comes on and a heavy gale from the southeast, which con
tinue for two days, during which the Columbia beats to and fro. On the 3rd
August the fog lifts, an indifferent observation is taken, and the ship is found
embayed. This spot, it is suggested, was the stretch of water immediately to the
easttvard of Prince of Wales Island. Captain Gray then, says Hoskins, determinied
to stand "to the northward through what was supposed to be a strait between
the continent and some islands." Upon the foregoing hypothesis this strait would
be between Prince of Wales Island and the Gravina Islands. After being driven
in that direction by the southeast gale for three hours, land was seen in every
direction but the westward; this means that in the fog Kasaan Bay, which lay
ahead, seemed open water. The ship pursued her course and two hours later
"the land was seen close aboard"; then a passage opened to the northwest. This,
it is submitted, is Clarence Strait; but, being directiy to leeward, it was thought
unwise to enter it, and an effort was made to find a harbour on the weather
shore. Reaching that shore — the eastern — iBoit says a small opening appeared, the
Columbia made for it, and anchored under a point of land in Port Tempest. If
the other suggested identifications be correct, this opening will be the westem
end of Revillagigedo Channel, otherwise Tongass Narrows, in southern Alaska, and
the "point of land," the western end of Gravina Island. Hoskins gives its position
as 55° 15' north, longitude 132° 20' west; the situation of the western end of
Revillagigedo Channel is about 55° 25' north and 131° 45' west; the difference is
no greater than is to be found over and over again in the journal, though the
longitude is usually too far east.
Hoskins describes Brown's Sound, as the stretch of water in the neighborhood
of Port Tempest was called. The above suggested site of Port Tempest fits his
description exactly. After stating that the sound has many arms, ne proceeds to
specify them; the geography of the suggested locality answers the requirements
in an appealing and convincing manner. The first branch that Hoskins mentions
is that upon which Port Tempest was situated; it trended east inclining to south
as far as the eye could reach; this is Revillagigedo Channel. There was another
arm extending to the north; this is Behm Canal. Then another running in a
northwesterly course "up which the natives informed me was a village called
Cahta"; this is Kasaan Bay, on which the Indian village of Cahta or Carta exists
today. There was another arm leadin<y west northwest, in which the horizon was
clear to the limit of vision, and which he took to be a strait; this is Clarence
Strait. Finally there was another arm stretching to the west southerly, "up
which I was informed by the natives was their village of Sushin"; this is Chol
mondeley Sound, on which is the abandoned Indian village of Sushin or Sushan,
Chasina or Chachina! Having disposed of the large branches, Hoskins adds that
there were other smaller inlets; these are Baker Inlet, Skowl Bay, etc.
The general geography of the suggested site of Port Tempest bein"- thus
shown to correspond with Hoskins' description, it will now be shown that the
suggested spot fits also with the details that he furnishes. At Port Tempest, he
tells us there were "also two small islands which afforded some little shelter"; and
at the western end of Revillagigedo Channel is Guard Island, which is described
in the Alaska Coast Pilot, 1883, p. 82, as "consisting of rocks uniting at low
water two low, rocky, high-water islets, one west from and considerably larger
than the other, and both bearing shrubs and a few trees." Vancouver also men
tions them as "two small islands with some trees upon them, S 40 W, half^ a
league distant" from Point Vallemar, Voyage, vol. 4, p. 184, Svo. ed. Again,
Hoskins says that from Port Tempest "the land to the northward was about four
miles and that to the southward one mile distant." Here also the geography
agrees. From Guard Island, at the western entrance of Revillagigedo Channel,
to Cape Camaano, the nearest land to the north, the distance is four and a half
railes, and from that island to the western end of Gravina Island — Point Vallemar,
the nearest land to the southward — is about two miles.
^nd finally, in these small matters, Hoskins and Boit both mention the
catching of salmon, but the latter, as usual, does not enter into details. Hoskins
again comes to our aid. He says they went to a "river about six miles to the
southward of the ship." That is, they went down Revillagigedo Channel six miles.
At that distance lies Ward Cove. "A creek forming a small bank at its mouth
falls in at the head of the cove"; Alaska Coast Pilot, 1883, p. 8r. The method
of fishing shows that the "river" was only a brook, for the men waded into the
water, threshing it with long poles and scaring the fish down the fall, where
they were gaffed with harpoons, boat hooks, etc.
Leaving the geographical portion of the subject, a word may be said ethno-
graphically. The Indians met in the vicinity of Port Tempest, as Hoskins records,
spoke the same language and had many of the customs of the natives of Queen
Charlotte Islands. They were therefore plainly the Kaigani Haida, an intrusion
into the Tlingit territory, occupying the southern part of Prince of Wales Island

Log of the Columbia 351
and the adjacent archipelago. They came from the villages already mentioned,
Sushin and Cahta, the most easterly and northerly residences of the Kaigani
Haida. Hoskins tells of the visit of a strange Chief and of the terror which it
inspired in the Kaigani Haida. This stranger was, of course, of the Tlingit stock;
the boundary between the two peoples was only some thirty miles northerly from
the spot now suggested as being Port Tempest. This stranger spoke a language
which the Americans could not understand; they had never met the Tlingit
before, but had been confined to the Haida and the Tsimshean in the northern
waters. It may be added that Vancouver had an exactly similar experience; see
his V'^oyage, vol. 4. p. 225, Svo. ed, 1801.
If Port Tempest be settled, there is no difficulty in locating Massacre Cove,
Its exact position cannot perhaps be fixed, but its situation can, in a general way,
be readily indicated. It was on the opposite, i. e., the western, side of Brown's
Sound, as Boit's entry of 8th August shows. This would place it on the eastern
shore of Prince of Wales Island. From it Port Tempest bore NEBN; in other
words, Massacre Cove was SEBE from Port Tempest. This is borne out by the
compass bearings in Boit's entry of 14th August, Massacre Cove therefore must
lie between Cholmondeley Sound and Skowl Bay, perhaps about four miles south
erly from Island Point, the entrance of the latter. Boit's statement that the
distance between Port Tempest and Massacre Cove is twelve leagues is an exag
geration; if these identifications are correct, the real distance, as the crow flies,
is about ten or twelve miles.
These reasons lead to the position that Port Tempest is identical with the
westem end of Revillagigedo Channel. It is not urged that they conclusively
settle the question. They are merely put forward as a contribution to the effort
to solve a problem that, though small and unimportant, is attractive because of
its very difficulties.
In conclusion I wish to acknowledge, gratefully, my indebtedness to Dr. C. F.
Newcombe, of Victoria, B, C, for his assistance in working out this identification.
His local knowledge of the region is invaluable.
Note I.
For the location of the villages of Cahta and Sushan I am indebted to Dr.
C. F. Newcombe, of Victoria, B. C. I append a portion of a recent letter on this
point. "With reference to Cahta and Sushan, I am in a different position, hav
ing visited both places. The present Cahta, now spelt Carta, is at the head of
Kasaan Inlet on the East side of Prince of Wales Island, but no doubt in early
days included the present Indian village of Kasaan, which is nearer the mouth
of the Inlet, An early copy by Arrowsmith in the Provincial Library, dated
Jan, 1st, 1795, gives the name spelt Kada. Sushan is spelt in early days in several
manners, as you will find by reference to "The Alaska Coast Pilot." It is right
at the entrance of Cholmondeley Sound, and has long been deserted,"

352 Captain Robert Gray
REMNANT OF OFFICIAL LOG OF THE COLUMBIA
Annotations by T. C. Elliott.
Text in Greenhow, 1848 Edition, p. 434.
Extract from the Second Volume of the LOG BOOK OF
THE SHIP COLUMBIA, of Boston, commanded by Robert
Gray, containing the Account of her Entrance into Gra'/s
Harbor and the Columbia River.
May 7th, 1792 A. M. — Being within six miles of the land,
saw an entrance in the same, which had a very good appearance
of a harbor ; lowered away the jolly-boat, and went in search of
an anchoring-place, the ship standing to and fro, with a very
strong weather current. At one P. M., the boat, returned, hav
ing no place where the ship could anchor with safety^ ; made sail
on the ship; stood in for the shore. We soon saw from our
mast-head, a passage in between the sand-bars. At half past
three, bore away, and ran in north-east by east, having from
four to eight fathoms, sandy bottom ; and, as we drew in nearer
between the bars, had from ten to thirteen fathoms, having a
very strong tide of ebb to stem. Many canoes came alongside.
At five, P. M., came to in five fathoms water, sandy bottom,
in a safe harbor, well sheltered from the sea by long sand
bars and spits. Our latitude observed this day was 46 degrees
58 minutes north.
May 10th — Fresh breezes and pleasant weather; many na
tives along side ; at noon all the canoes left us. At one, P. M.,
began to unmoor, took up the best bower anchor, and hove
short on the small bower-anchor. At half past four, (being
high water,) hove up the anchor, and came to sail and a beating
down the harbor.^
May llth. — At half past seven, we were out clear of the bars,
and directed our course to the southward, along shore.^ At
I This log makes no mention of the sending of a small boat ahead of the
ship, either here or at the mouth of the Columbia river, which precaution is men
tioned by Mr. Boit in his journal. Neither does Capt. Gray mention any observations
for longitude, as Mr. Boit does. For more extended comments see the Boit
Journal printed herewith.
2 This entry indicates that Capt. Gray's anchorage was not far inside the
entrance, but any attempt to designate it would be mere speculation. The pre
sumption is in favor of the bay behind one of the capes.
3 This entry written at evening on the i ith, clearly states that the ship left
Gray's Harbor on the evenmg of the loth. Boit erroneously puts the date as the
nth.

Log of the Columbia 353
eight, P. m., the entrance of Bulfinch's Harbor bore north,
distance four miles; the southern extremity of the land bore
south-south-east half east, and the northern north-north-west;
sent up the main top-gallant-yard and set all sail. At four,
A. M., saw the entrance of our desired port bearing east-south
east, distance six leagues ; in steering sails, and hauled our wind
in shore. At eight, A. M., being a little to windward of the
entrance of the Harbor, bore away, and run in east-north-east
between the breakers, having from five to seven fathoms of
water. When we were over the bar, we found this to be a large
river of fresh water, up which we steered. Many canoes
came alongside. At one, P. M., came to with the small bower,
in ten fathoms, black and white sand."* The entrance between
the bars bore west-south-west, distant ten miles; the north
side of the river a half a mile distant from the ship; the
south side of the same two and a half miles' distance; a
village on the north side of the river west by north, distant
three quarters of a mile. Vast numbers of natives came along
side; people employed in pumping the salt water out of our
water-casks, in order to fill with fresh, while the ship floated
in. So ends.
May 12th. — Many natives alongside; noon, fresh wind; let
go the best bower-anchor, and veered out on both cables ; sent
down the main-top-gallant-yard; filled up all the water-casks
in the hold. The latter part, heavy gales, and rainy, dirty
weather. May 13th. — Fresh winds and rainy weather; many natives
along-side ; hove up the best bower-anchor ; seamen and trades
men at their various departments.
May 14th. — Fresh gales' and cloudy ; many natives alongside ;
at noon, weighed and came to sail, standing up the river north
east by east; we found the channel very narrow. At four,
P. M., we had sailed upwards of twelve or fifteen miles, when
the channel was so very narrow that it was almost impossible
to keep in it, having from three to eighteen fathoms water,
sandy bottom. At half past four, the ship took ground, but
4 This anchorage, yi mile off shore between Pt. Ellice and McGowans Station,
was exposed to the wind and current, which fact partly explains the use of more
tlian one anchor and the determination to move further up the river two days
later.

354 Captain Robert Gray
she did not stay long before she came off, without any assist
ance. We backed her off, stern foremost, into three fathoms,
and let go the small bower, and moored ship with kedge and
hawser. The jolly-boat was sent to sound the channel out,
but found it not navigable farther up; so, of course, we must
have taken the wrong channel. So ends,' with rainy weather;
many natives alongside.
May 15th.- — Light airs and pleasant weather; many natives
from the different tribes came alongside. At ten, A. M., un
moored and dropped down with the tide to a better anchoring-
place ; smiths and other tradesmen constantly employed. In the
afternoon, Captain Gray and Mr. Hoskins, in the jolly-boat,
went on shore to take a short view of the country.
May 16th. — Light airs and cloudy. At four, A. M., hove up
the anchor and towed down about three miles, with the last of
the ebb tide; came into six fathoms, sandy bottom, the jolly-boat
sounding the channel. At ten, A. M., a fresh breeze came up the
river. With the first of the ebb-tide we got under way, and
beat down the river. At one, (from its being very squally,)
we came to, about two miles from the village, {Chinook) which
bore west-south-west ; many natives alongside ; fresh gales and
squally.^ May 17th. — Fresh winds and squally; many canoes along
side; calkers calking the pinnace; seamen paying the ship's
sides with tar ; painter painting ship ; smiths and carpenters at
their departments.
May 18th. — Pleasant weather. At four in the morning, began
to heave ahead; at half past, came to sail, standing down the
river with the ebb tide; at seven, (being slack water and the
wind fluttering,) we came to in five fathoms, sandy bottom; the
entrance between the bars bore south-west by west, distant
three miles. The north point of the harbor bore north-west,
5 This day Capt. Gray proceeded around Point Ellice and past Qiff Point
and Knappton as far as some sand bar in the shallow waters off the wide entrance
to Gray's Bay. presumably more than half the distance across the entrance to that
bay. By soundings from his small boats he then discovered that the deep water
channel crossed _ the river above him, from Harrington's Point to 'Tongue Point,
and that his ship was not in a safe place, and he therefore dropped down the
following morning to a better anchorage off Point Gray (Frankfort).
6 Today the ship again dropped down stream, first to anchor opposite Knapp
ton and later to the upper or lea side of Point Ellice, where she remained until
the i8th.

Log of the Columbia 355
distant two miles ; the south bore south-east, distant three and a
half miles. At nine, a breeze came up from the eastward ; took
up the anchor and came to sail, but the wind soon came flut
tering again ; came to anchor with the kedge and hawser ; veered
out fifty fathoms. Noon, pleasant. Latitude observed, 46
degrees 17 minutes noi'th. At one, came to sail with the first
of the ebb tide, and drifted down broadside, with light airs
and strong tide; at three quarters past, a fresh wind came
from the northward ; wore ship, and stood into the river again.
At four, came to in six fathoms ; good holding-ground about
six or seven miles up ; many canoes along side.^
May 19th. — Fresh wind and clear weather. Early a number
of canoes came alongside; seamen and tradesmen employed
in their various departments. Captain Gray gave this river
the name of Columbia's River, and the north side of the en
trance Cape Hancock, the south, Adams's Point.
May 20th. — Gentle breezes and pleasant weather. At one,
P. M. (being full sea,) took up the anchor, and made sail,
standing down the river. At two, the wind left us, we being
on the bar with a very strong tide, which set on the breakers ;
it was now not possible to get out without a breeze to shoot
her across the tide; so we were obliged to bring up in three
and a half fathoms, the tide running five knots. At three
quarters past two, a fresh wind came in from seaward; we
immediately came to sail, and beat over the bar, having from
five to seven fathoms water in the channel. At five, P. M., we
were out, clear of all bars, and in twenty fathoms water.^ A
breeze came from the southward ; we bore away to the north
ward ; set all sail to best advantage. At eight, Cape Hancock
bore southeast, distant three leagues ; the north extremity of
the land in sight bore north by west. At nine, in steering and
top-gallant sails. Midnight, light airs.
May 21st. — At six, A. M., the nearest land in sight bore
east-south-east, distant eight leagues. At seven, set top-gallant-
7 This day Capt. Gray sailed down stream with the intention of crossing
out, but, because of unfavorable conditions, returned up river again to an anchor
age off Chinook Point (Fort Columbia), which was a very favorable spot for
observing the capes and the entrance.
8 Good-bye to "Columbia's River," after a narrow escape from disaster upon
Peacock and Clatsop spits on the way out.

356 Captain Robert Gray
sails and light stay-sails. At eleven set steering sails fore and
aft. Noon, pleasant, agreeable weather. The entrance of
Bulfinch's Harbor bore south-east by east half east, distant*
five leagues.

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