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CANADA'S NAtlONAI. PARKS

THROUGH the HEART of
zi^e ROCKIES &SELKI RKS

By
M.B.WiIliains

C3Y)ada,~I)e^. cPirh<i\v^x,,'.

Published under the direction of
Sir Jaines Lou9heed
Minister of the Interior
1921

WITH THE COMPLIMENTS OF THE
CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS BRANCH
OF THE DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR,
OTTAWA, CANADA.

CONTENTS Page
Chapter I . The Canadian Rockies  5
" 2. Rocky Mountains Park  13
" 3. Walks, Drives, Climbs and Trails about Banff  29
" 4. Lake Louise District  45
" 5. Yoho Park  57
" 6. Glacier Park  65
7. Mt. Revelstoke Park  71
Appendix 1 . Vegetation and Wild Life of the Parks  75
" 2. Trail Trips  85
" 3. Place Names and Altitudes  91

25489— li

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS p^^^^
Rocky Mountain Sheep  ^
Among the Selkirks  ^
Mt. Rundle, Banff  0
Stoney Indian   ] ^
On the Roof of the World  3
Typical View of Rockies from a High Peak  ]'*
Hoodoos near Banff  ' °
The Bow River Falls, Banff  '7
Ski-joring, Banff Winter Carnival  •.  20
Banff Springs Hotel, Bow Valley  21
Black Bear in the Zoo, Banff  22
The Open Air Hot Sulphur Pool is one of the Most Popular Spots in Banff  24
On the Banff Golf Links  27
Mt. Rundle and Vermilion Lakes, Banff  28
A Mountain Pass  29
Lake Minnewanka  32
Johnston Canyon  34
Along the Motor Highway  35
Castle Mountain  36
On the Moraine Lake Drive  38
Nearing the Top  39
Breaking Camp  40
Upper Kananaskis Lake  42
Mt. Assiniboine  43
Anemones  44
 45
At Lake Louise  46
Lake Louise  47
Lake Agnes — One of the Lakes in the Clouds  48
At Moraine Lake Chalet  49
The Ten Peaks  50
The Giant's Stairway, Paradise Valley  51
Lake O'Hara  53
Mt. Columbia  54
Virginia Deer  55
The Great Divide  57
Switchback, Yoho Valley Drive  58
Takakkaw Falls, Yoho Valley  59
Twin Falls, Yoho Valley  60
Emerald Lake, Yoho Park  61
The Natural Bridge  62
Valley of the Kickinghorse, Yoho Park  62
Lynx  63
Marmot  65
The Illecillewaet Glacier  66
Road to Nakimu Caves  67
Seracs, Illecillewaet Glacier  68
Snow Lilies  69
A Ski-jumper  71
Lake Eva, Mt. Revelstoke Park  72
Squirrel  73
Young Robin  75
White Heath  77
Primula  :  77
Mirror Lake  7g
Bighorn Sheep Along the Motor Highway  gg
Rocky Mountain Goat   gj
Fool-hen   g2
Whiskey-jack   on
Royal Canadian Mounted Police  gc
Black Bear   ni

r oreword
THERE is a legend among the western Indians which relates the story
of Ah-ka-noosta, mightiest of hunters, who, in spite of the passing of
many winters, grew not old. His brothers, wondering, noticed that
each year he disappeared from the tribe and came back always with the
vigour and spirit of youth. At last they begged him to tell what secret
magic he had discovered. But Ah-ka-noosta declared he had no magic; he
had only been away in the mountains, living like the wild goat and the eagle
among the high peaks, sleeping in the teepee of the pine forest and drinking
the clear waters of the mountain springs. Although Ah-ka-noosta had told
them all his secret the others did not believe him and the legend grew up
that he had discovered in the mountains a magic lake whose waters were the
Elixir of Life.
A good many centuries have passed since the days of Ah-ka-noosta, but
we are just beginning to realize he had no secret that everyone may not
share. We have only td leave the cares and anxieties of our ordinary occu
pations behind us and travel to the mountains, live among the great peaks
and the forests, or beside the wonderful lakes and waterfalls in the pure
life-giving air for a little while, to find out what a magical influence they
possess. Getting back to the wilderness is indeed "getting home." "Is not
the earth mother to us all?" says "A. E." "Is it not from Nature we draw
life? Do we not perish without sunshine and fresh air?" In such surround
ings we come again close to that Ancient Mother, Nature, who "alive and
miraculous" alone keeps the secret of the perpetual springs of life. That
the road should always be open for those who wish to follow Ah-ka-noosta's
trail back to increased vitality and happiness, ten thousand square miles
of Canadian mountain wilderness have been set aside in the name of the
people for the benefit, use and enjoyment of all the sons and daughters of
Canada and their friends from afar.
National parks are maintained for all the people — for the ill, that they
may be restored, for the well, that they may be fortified and inspired by the
sunshine, the fresh air, the beauty and all the other healing, ennobling and
inspiring agencies of Nature. They exist in order that every citizen of
Canada may satisfy his soul-craving for Nature and Nature's beauty, that
he may absorb the poise and restfulness of the forests; that he may steep
his soul in the brilliance of the wild flowers and the sublimity of the mountain
peaks; that he may develop in himself the buoyancy, the joy, and the activity
he sees in the wild animals; that he may stock his brain and his mind as he
would a warehouse with the raw material of intelligent optimism, great
thoughts, noble ideals; that he may be made better, happier and healthier.
J. B. HARKIN, Commissioner.

• -y..^

yi?-^

Rocky Mountain Sheep

CHAPTER I
THE CANADIAN ROCKIES
"The Mountains are so kindly and so great that they reject none
of those who turn to them, and they are good to all; to the men of
science who come to study them; to the painters and the poets
who seek an inspiration in them; to the sturdy climbers who
zealously seek violent exercise, and to the weary who flee from
the heat and the turmoil of the city to refresh themselves at this
pure source of physical and moral health." — Guido Rey.
The mountain ranges which combine sublimity and beauty in
equal measure are few in number. Among these for centuries the
Alps have stood pre-eminent. But in the last half century a new
mountain region, equalling the Alps in mingled beauty and grandeur
yet with a marked individuality and character of its own, has been
opened to the world in the Canadian Rockies. It is a little more than
thirty-five years since the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railway
opened the long closed door to the Canadian mountains, but already
their fame has spread to all parts of the world and each year sees an
increasing stream of travel from every country under the sun coming
to admire the wonders of these glorious ranges. But there is no danger
of the Rockies becoming overcrowded. Their extent is so tremendous
that they are capable of being the playground of almost unlimited
numbers. A great part of them has not yet been really explored. Each
year new trails are being opened up, new beauties discovered. One
of the chief charms of the Rockies is that this is and will be for many
years to come still a virgin land. One may travel through the heart
of it in luxurious Pullmans and find accommodation equalling the best
to be found on the continent, but half an hour's walk from the railway
will take you into the wilderness where Nature is still as wild and
solitary and beautiful as she was on the first day.

6 The Caiiadian Rockies
CANADA'S NATIONAL PARKS
In these wonderful mountains, seemingly designed by the Great
Landscape Architect of the Universe for the perpetual pleasure and
refreshment of man, the Canadian Government has set aside nearly
10,000 square miles to be preserved and maintained for public use
and enjoyment as national parks. This is an area two-thirds as great
as Switzerland and almost as large as Belgium. It ensures that the
finest parts of Canada's great mountain region, with all their native
plant and animal life, will be forever preserved in their pristine beauty
and wildness for the use and enjoyment of the Canadian people.
These great reservations, declares T. G. Langstaff, the emment
English alpinist and traveller, are destined to become "the playground
of the world." Nature, indeed, seems to have showered on this country
every beauty in her generous apron. Imagine if you can a region
where the sublimity of the scenery is matched by the beauty, where
tremendous peaks lift their foreheads beyond the clouds and black
canyons hide their feet in unimaginable depths, where those great
leviathans, the glaciers, creep down from the frozen desolation of alpine
heights and the black walls of precipices rise up so as to shut out the
very light of day, but imagine these softened and balanced by luxuriant
pine forests, by smiling green valleys "murmurous with streams," by
the airy veils of silvery waterfalls tumbling against black precipice or
green forest and tangling the rainbow in their folds, by the brilliance
of alpine uplands sparkling with millions of flowers, and by innumerable
magically tinted lakes — imagine these under a sky, "blue as the sky of
fairyland," changing from moment to moment and from hour to hour
under varying light and drifting purple cloud shadows, glorified at
sunrise and sunset into almost unearthly beauty and transformed by
moonlight into a veritable palace of dreams — and you reach some idea
of the Canadian Rockies. Add to all the above the glorious, life-
giving mountain air, warm sunny summer days and pleasantly cool
nights, and you have all the raw material for the perfect holiday land.
There are seven national parks in the Rockies: Jasper Park, in
Northern Alberta, with an area of 4,400 square miles; Waterton Lakes
Park, in Southern Alberta, 129 square miles, adjoining the United
States Glacier National Park at the International boundary; four parks
along the main line of the Canadian Pacific Railway through the
Central Rockies and Selkirks — Rocky Mountains, Yoho, Glacier and
Mount Revelstoke; and the new highway park established along the
Vermilion-Columbia section of the Transmontane motor road, which
is called Kootenay Park.
Administration. — Within the parks the Government takes charge
of all administration, protecting them by eternal vigilance from the
ever-threatening menace of fire, guarding the rich heritage of wild
life, preserving and enhancing the natural beauty of the landscape,
opening up the many attractions by roads and trails and making provi
sion in every way for the convenience and comfort of visitors.

Rockies a'nd, Selkirks 7
No land may be purchased in the parks, but sites for business or
residential purposes may be secured for a nominal rental. There are
no monopolies and no concessions. Equal opportunity for all is the
policy of the administration. The various businesses which provide
service for the tourist are regulated by a system of licenses. A health
inspector ensures cleanliness and sanitation. A justice of the peace and
the Royal Canadian Mounted Police enforce law and order.
Parks of the Central Rockies and Selkirks. — The four parks
of the Central Rockies and Selkirks with which this guidebook is
concerned cover about 4,000 square miles. They lie along the main
line of the Canadian Pacific Railway and, though not continuous
throughout, for all tourist purposes form practically one park. Rocky
Mountains Park, 2,751 square miles, which stretches from the foothills
to the crest of the Rockies, is the largest. Yoho Park, 476 square
miles, adjoins it at the Divide and has its western boundary a few miles
beyond Leanchoil station. After crossing the wide valley of the Colum
bia, the railway begins the ascent of the Selkirks and about a mile east
of Illecillewaet station enters Glacier Park, 468 square miles, passing
out of the park near Griffith station. Mount Revelstoke Park, 95
square miles in area, lies at the summit of mount Revelstoke and is
reached by motor from Revelstoke station.
THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS AND SELKIRK RANGES
"Generations as they pass
Worship thee with bended knees;
Their unremaining gods and they
Like a river roll away;
Thou remainest such — alway.''
The name "Rocky Mountains " appears to have been of Cree
origin. Long before the advent of the white man the Indians of the
plains, gazing at that glistening line of peaks which stretched across
the West, had called them the "Shining Mountains." Legardeur St.
Pierre in his journal, 1752, states that among the Crees they were
called "Assin-wati," which is literally stony or rocky mountains.
He translated the name into French — "Montagnes des Roches" — and
by the English equivalent they have since been known.
Although this name has been loosely applied to the whole western
mountain region, it properly belongs only to the first great range on
the east. The Canadian Cordilleras are comprised of three great
parallel belts each of which includes several mountain systems and
which together make up a mountain area which covers, roughly speak
ing, about 250,000 square miles.
The Rockies system is the greatest both in area and in the
height of its peaks. It extends from the eastern foothills west to
what is known as the Rocky Mountain Trench, the great intermontane
trough now occupied by the waters of the Kootenay, Columbia, Mistaya,
etc., which marks the division between the older mountains to the

8 The Canadian Rockies
west and their comparatively youthful descendents, the Rockies. The
Selkirks are one of the three principal ranges of the Interior system.
They lie within the bend of the great Columbia which, rising in the
Kootenay lakes, flows north not far from the Athabaska pass and then
making a wide detour again flows south to the International boundary.
Within the curve of this elbow the Selkirks lie like a rocky fortress
encircled by a moat. Their length from north to south Is about 300
miles. General Character of Rockies and Selkirks. — Each of the
four mentioned parks has a distinct individuality of its own. For
while there is a general resemblance throughout all parts of the Cana
dian Cordilleras, each range and section has Its special characteristics
and charm of scenery which differentiate it from any other. Between
the Rockies and Selkirks this difference is particularly marked. The
Selkirks are much the older formation. Their snowcapped summits
towered over the western world ages before the Rockies were lifted from
the ocean's bed. In the course of centuries their harsh contours and
upper summits have been rounded and worn down by the thumb of
Time and though probably once the higher range they are now from
1,000 to 2,000 feet lower than their more youthful neighbours. They
lack, too, the sharp spires and pinnacles and castellated summits which
make the Rockies so picturesque.
But, though the Selkirks are
inferior in height, they are pre
eminent in the wonderful luxuri
ance of their dark green forests
and in the extent and mass of
ice which lies upon their summits
throughout the year. Precipita
tion in these mountains is ex
tremely heavy, the average being
56 • 68 inches of which more than
75 per cent falls as snow. As
much as 50 feet of snow has been
recorded in a single season. This
great mass of snow and ice melts
but little from year to year and
forms a thick cap over all the
peaks reaching down practically
to timber line. In fact one of
the delights of almost every
landscape in the Selkirks is the
vista of dazzling white summits
rising directly above the green
forests against a brilliant blue sky. Everywhere these great snow
masses are compressed and flow down the mountains in the slow
rivers of ice known as glaciers. The number of glaciers in the Selkirks

Among the Selkirks
The beautiful Illecillewaet valley fro.-n
Mt. Cougar, near Glacier, B.C.

How the Mountains Were Formed 9
has never been computed but from some of the peaks in Glacier park over
one hundred can be counted at once. All the other beautiful phenomena
of an alpine world are also present — ice-caves, waterfalls, green valleys
and uplands which are veritable gardens of wild flowers.
In the higher Rocky Mountains range there is a much lighter
precipitation and Chinook winds remove much snow from the eastern
slope which would otherwise go to form glaciers, so that their grey,
sharp-pointed peaks often rise gaunt and bare several thousand feet
above timber line. On the loftier peaks, however, beautiful glaciers
and permanent snowcaps are to be found, and in the Lake Louise
district and Yoho Park one finds every charm of an alpine world.
Characteristic, too, of the Rockies is the countless number of beautiful
lakes which have an infinite variety of colouring and setting such as
holds the spectator almost breathless. The forests of the Rockies,
while always beautifully green, are lighter in colour and less dense in
undergrowth on the east. Tree growth rises to about 6,500 to 7,000
feet. The Rockies for the most part are formed of grey limestones
with bands of purplish shales, while the Selkirks are composed of bril
liantly coloured quartzites which add much to the beauty of the rocks.
Formation of the Rockies and Selkirks. — As one travels
among these great ranges inevitably the question arises: How were
these mountains formed, by what Titanic forces, in what convulsive
throes of the old earth were these enormous masses crumpled and
folded and lifted miles into the air? To the geologist the story
is as clear as print. Nature with a tremendous gesture has here laid
bare the secrets of her history for many millions of years. In the lines
and markings and imprisoned life of the strata he can decipher the
whole record. This ancient tale of the hills, as he tells it, is one of the
most interesting of stories.
Long, long ago, he says, how many million years ago, even a
geologist hesitates to say, but probably ages before the mollusc, the
jellyfish and the crustacean were squirming in the Cambrian slime, the
place where now the Rockies stand was the floor of an inland sea. Its
western limit was a mountain barrier, of which the Selkirks formed a
part, which rose beyond what is now the Rocky Mountain Trench; its
eastern, probably the shield of the Laurentians east from Hudson bay.
Year after year through countless centuries, rocky dust from this ancient
western range was carried down by wave and stream and laid on the
floor of the ocean bed. Century after century, aeon after aeon, while
Nature passed from invertebrates to vertebrates, while she peopled
the seas with fishes, shaped the toad, the frog and the salamander and
grew her great forests of fern, the sedimentary process went on till,
layer upon layer, a bed 50,000 feet thick was formed. Then at some
time in what is called the Carboniferous period, as the result of tre
mendous pressure exerted from the west, the floor of the ocean bed
began to rise. Slowly it rose through millions of years until the waters
became so shallow over a great part of the area that extensive swamps

10

The Canadian Rockies

and shallow bogs were formed in which the huge and W^ly dino
saurs probably wallowed in luxurious content. About these shores
flourished a luxuriant vegetation which later formed the rich coaUbeds
found at Canmore and Bank-
head in the Rocky Mountains
Park and elsewhere. At the
close of what is called the
Mesozoic period, or the Age of
Reptiles, which lasted accord
ing to some estimates from
30,000,000 years ago to 9,000,000
years ago, another tremendous
thrust occurred from the west
which became so great that it
lifted the whole rocky crust of
this district and crumpled it
into folds like a sheet of paper.
"As the pressure continued the
folds became closed and over
turned towards the east. Later
the strata broke along the lines
of least resistance and the rocks
on the west side of the fault
were pushed upwards and thrust
over the rocks on the east side."
In this way beds which were
millions of years older were
thrust over the tops of the
younger beds. This fault or
break occurred in the neigh
bourhood of Castle. The moun
tains in the eastern part of the
park reveal clearly just how it
happened. Many of the peaks show the characteristic "writing desk"
formation, ancient grey limestones sloping gently from the west and
breaking off on the eastern side in a steep escarpment.
No sooner were the mountains uplifted than the forces of destruc
tion began the work of tearing them down. Nature with her ' hammer
of wind and graver of frost" splitting up the rock along the lines of
striation and carving it into sculptured forms. Water courses formed
along the transverse cracks and in the valleys between the parallel
ridges. Then came the glacial period, during which Arctic conditions
prevailed over the whole northern half of the continent. Year by year
all moisture fell in the form of snow until an ice-cap thousands of feet
thick was formed, above which only the higher peaks lifted their frosty
heads. The desolation of that period appals the imagination. Not a
single green thing remained. For hundreds of years frost, silence and

Mt. Rundle. Banff
A "writing desk" type of mountain

The Ice Age 11
death held the mountains in their grip. And yet there was life of a kind
and motion. The glaciers were forming in the valleys and along the
old water courses, pressing down from the heights with increasing
force, scraping and carving and tearing the rocks as they came. As the
loads upon them grew heavier the great trunk glaciers in the valleys
had to squirm deeper in their rocky beds, hollowing out the V-shaped
valleys into the form of a U. Then one happy morning spring once
more came back to the land. The warm rains fell again, the winds
blew softly, the sunshine fell in straight shafts into the frozen valleys,
the Frost King was driven back to the Arctic, the tender green again
appeared, the streams ran sparkling to the sea and all the mountain
world was reborn in the dawn of the new day.
Much as they were then, subject only to the slow erosion and
corrosion of natural forces, the Rockies have since remained. Avalanche
and tempest, thunderbolt and flood have carved their lofty summits
into ever-varying sculpture and graven new scars on their old flanks
already scarred by ice-claw and frost-tooth, but their general form and
features are believed to be unchanged. When one thinks of the date
less centuries through which these gaunt, grey peaks have looked out
across the plains, the life of the individual seems as ephemeral as the
butterflies fluttering over the windflowers on the slopes. In the tre
mendous calendar of the mountains a thousand years are as one day
and our little civilization as a watch in the night. Babylon and Assyria,
Greece and Rome have risen and passed, but they remain. What life
went on about their feet through all those centuries, one wonders,
while the buffalo herds grew black upon the plains? The smoke of
Indian campfires rose blue along the eastern foothills, but the Indians
seem to have feared and avoided the mountains. Probably a few
hundred years ago the Kootenays, seeking shelter from their hereditary
enemies, the Blackfeet, fled from Montana to the fertile valleys of the
Kootenay and Columbia west of the Divide. Later, possibly less than
a century ago, the Stonies entered Bow valley, perhaps in search of
game; the Shuswaps coming from the west to visit the Stonies built
their half-buried dwellings at the base of mount Rundle where now
the tourist plays golf, but the Indians left few more marks of their
habitation than the wild animals.
The discovery of the west by De la Verendrye in 1 743 marked a new
era. It meant the coming of the white man, restless maker of change the
world over. Fifty years later Sir Alexander Mackenzie, stubborn son
of Scotland, overcoming tremendous toil and hardship, fought his way
through to the Pacific, emerging at what is now Prince Rupert. In
1 84 1 , Sir George Simpson, Governor of the Hudson's Bay Company, and
one of the most eminent pathfinders of the great Company of Path
finders, led by Peechee, a Cree chief, penetrated the Bow valley and
crossed the mountains by what is now called Simpson pass. A few years
later began the determined search for the long dreamed of route to
Asia through British territory. Sir James Hector, geologist with the
British expedition under Palliser, following the Bow river to its junction

12

The Canadian Rockies

with the Vermilion, ascended that stream to the Divide and turnmg
north reached the Kickinghorse pass. This was the first of the two
keys needed to unlock the Rockies. The other was the discovery of
Rogers pass by Major Rogers, Engineer in Charge of the Mountain
Division of the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1881. Four years later
at nine o'clock in the morning on the 7th of November, Sir Donald
Smith, later Lord Strathcona, drove the last spike in the junction of
the eastern and western division at Craigellachie and the Canadian
mountains were open to the world.

.1

I

CHAPTER 2
ROCKY MOUNTAINS PARK
"Farther than vision ranges.
Farther than eagles fly,
Stretches the land of beauty.
Arches the perfect sky.
Hemmed through the purple mists afar
By peaks that gleam like star on star."
— Pauline Johnson.
The Rocky Mountains Park is the oldest, second largest and best
known of the Canadian National Parks. The first reservation was
made in 1 885, the year of the completion of the Canadian Pacific Rail
way across the mountains. With the discovery by railway engineers
of the valuable Hot springs at Banff, the Government was at once
confronted with the question: should it lease to private parties the
rights to the springs or should it control and operate them itself? It
decided in favour of the latter and a reservation of ten square miles
was made to ensure that the surroundings should be in keeping with
the Government's plan to make this a first-class resort. Shortly after
wards a special party of parliamentarians went over the new line. So
much impressed were they with the beauty of the scenery and the
wonderful possibilities of the region that it was decided to create a

14

Rocky Mountains Park

national park of 260 square miles so that the public should always have
access to this district. The debates in Parliament in 1 887 when the
first Rocky Mountains Park Bill was under discussion make interesting
reading. They show thiat even then the future value of such a park
had been realized.
In the year 1902 the park was enlarged to 5,000 square miles.
Under the Forest Reserves and Parks Act of 1911 it was reduced to
1,800 square miles but for game protection purposes it was recently
enlarged to its present dimensions of 2,751 square miles.

Typical View of Rockies from a High Peak
The mountains of Rocky Mountains Park reveal two distinct
formations, the line of division occurring in the neighbourhood of
Castle mountain. To the east the term "sea of mountains" is particu
larly appropriate. The ranges rise one behind the other in parallel
lines, sloping gently up on the west and breaking sharply off at the
crest of the range like the waves of a sea. They are formed for the
most part of rugged grey limestones, the strata being sharply inclined
or even turned almost on end. West of Castle station the rock has
been lifted straight in the air so that the strata lie horizontally and the
mountains take more massive, block-like forms with pyramidal or
dome-shaped heads.
The park contains three great groups of mountains, the Assini
boine group to the south, the Laggan group, centred about lake Louise,
and the Howse or Waputik group along the crest of the Divide north of
the railway.

Approach from the East 15
APPROACH TO ROCKY MOUNTAINS PARK
"I break the spirit's cloudy bands,
A wanderer in enchanted lands,
I feel the sun upon my hands;
And far from care and strife
The broad earth bids me forth, I rise
With lifted brow and upward eyes,
I bathe my spirit in blue skies.
And taste the springs of life."
— Archibald Lampman.
Undoubtedly the best way to approach the Rockies for the first
time is from the east. The dramatic glimpse of that far-flung line of
blue after the vast expanse of level prairie is an experience never to be
forgotten. Leaving Calgary, the ancient valley, through which the
milky green, glacier-born waters of the Bow tumble down to the
plains, is the route for both motor road and railway but the traveller
by the former obtains the finer views. From Calgary itself or any
of the high hills surrounding it you may see, if it is a clear day,
far away to the west, hung among the clouds and quivering in the
warm summer air, a long irregular blue line, sharp as a knife blade,
with a glistening white crest. It is the Rockies, eighty miles away.
Remote, dim, ethereally lovely, they hang among the clouds, unsub
stantial as the clouds themselves. Contrasted with the work-a-day
scenes about you they seem to belong to another world, like the
vision of the celestial city seen by the Dreamer of Patmos. Even so,
one thinks, must they have appeared to Pierre de la Verendrye, the
first white man to look upon the Rockies in 1743. With what a "wild
surmise" must he, who had thought to find the China sea, have looked
upon that ragged sky line stretching all across the west. Romance
and adventure beckoned to him from the blue distance as they do to
us to-day, but owing to the defection of his Indian guides, he had to
turn back leaving them unexplored.
With every mile you travel westward the mountains grow bluer,
the snowpeaks whiter, the sense of enchantment deeper. Soon you
leave behind you the great ranching country and are among the rounded
grassy knobs that form the foothills, approaching the great front door
of the Rockies. Slightly inclined from east to west rises the massive
barrier which for so long shut off communication between the Pacific
and the plains. One strangely shaped peak stands out prominently
to the right. It is the Devils Head (9,175 feet), one of the guardians
of lake Minnewanka. A few miles before you enter the Rocky Moun
tains Park you come to the Morley Indian reserve, home of the Stonies,
whom you may see later in wonderful fete dress at their annual games
at Banfi^. Now the great grey escarpment of the mountains, 2,500 to 3,000
feet high, rises before you naked as a wall. The eye searches in vain
for any opening in the barrier. There are, in fact, three gateways
25489—2

16

Rocky Mountains Park

from the plains: Devils Gap, a few miles to the north, Kananaskis Gap
and the Bow Gap, a water gate, through which railway and motor road
enter. A sharp turn in the road reveals the opening —
"A mighty cleft within the bosoming hills,
A narrow gateway to the mountain's heart.
You pass through the narrow postern and are at once in the mountain
world. From the Gap to Banff. — Up to this point the river has been
following a transverse valley cut across the ridges. Now it makes a
sharp turn about the base of Grotto mountain and enters the long
valley between the Fairholme range to the right and the Kananaskis
to the left. The great peaks are already close at hand. Wind mountain
(10,100 feet). Pigeon mountain (7,845 feet) and the Three Sisters
(9,743 feet) standing out prominently as soon as you enter. Near the
little mining town of Canmore one gets the first glimpse of the
Hoodoos, those queer eroded pillars carved in the glacial silt,
which are so hard that they will dull the sharpest pick. These
natural monuments often take strange shapes and suggest the crude
attempts of some savage artist to represent his primitive gods. They
were regarded with much superstition by the Indians and to this
day the Stoney gives the Hoo-
^^^ dcos a wide berth. Near An-
^^^S' thracite the Bow river flows
~~ through deep beds of glacial
silt. Here there are a num
ber of fine hoodoos. One of
these, a British lion, couchant,
on the left bank, is especially
noticeable. A good view of it
may be had from the bridge.
From the top of the Anthra
cite hill one has a splendid
panorama of the district. The
grey old bulk of Cascade just
ahead, Inglismaldie (9,685
feet) prominent to the right,
and the long serrated spine
of mount Rundle (9,665 feet)
to the left. A few miles
farther on the road passes
the animal paddocks, fenced
enclosures in which one may
see the shaggy buffalo — de
posed monarchs of the plains —
statuesque elk, moose, deer,
goat, and those long-haired bolshevists of the animal tribe, the yak.
A short run of a little over a mile brings one to the little town of Banff,
headquarters of the park.

Hoodoos near Banff

Banff and the Bow VaUey

17

BANFF AND THE BOW VALLEY
'There is a land of dream,
I have trodden its golden ways;
I have seen its amber light
From the heart of its sun-swept days;
I have seen its moonshine white
On its silent waters gleam —
Ah! the strange, sweet, lovely delight of the valleys

of Dream."
— Fiona Macleod.

Banff has been synonymous with beauty in the hearts of nature
lovers for many years. Few places are so ideally situated. It nestles
in the green valley of the Bow in a wide circle of lofty and beautiful
mountains. The Bow river, after frisking madly down from Castle
in a series of rapids, quiets down a few miles above Banff into the
sedatest of streams, widening out into little lakes and flowing with so
leisurely a motion that its waters hold in their mirror-like depths
another and even more beautiful mountain world. A little past the
Bow bridge the river quickens its pace and, breaking into a series of
rapids, runs between a narrow rocky gorge for about half a mile, then
leaping in a beautiful cloud of spray, it falls 50 feet almost opposite
Banff Springs hotel. Turning to the east it sweeps around the base of
Tunnel mountain, takes the darker waters of the Spray into its embrace

The Bow River Falls, Banff

and, trailing their mingled volume like a blue scarf about a little
wooded island floating frigate-wise in the middle of the stream, it
winds eastward to the plains.
25489— 2 J

18 Rocky Mountains Park
While none of the peaks are truly alpine in character several rise
to over 9,000 feet, or more than a mile above the valley floor. The
mountains for the most part are formed of pearly-grey limestone, the
summits often bare of timber for one or two thousand feet, the lower
slopes covered with what at a distance appears to be olive-green moss
but which on closer inspection is seen to be pine forest.
It is hard to describe the charm of Banff but impossible not to feel
it. It is a charm compounded of so many elements. The beauty of
the scenery, the clear sunshine, the life-giving air, the glorious blue of
the sky, the cosmopolitan atmosphere — all these are part of it but yet
they hardly explain the glamour and fascination of this "little town
nestled among the hills." It has an atmosphere all its own — a sort of
embodied play-spirit to which we insensibly yield. It is as if we had
entered a fairy gateway into an enchanted country. The sordid cares
and anxieties we have brought with us from our outside competitive
world drop away like Christian's burden at the sight of the Delectable
Mountains. We give ourselves up to the spirit of the place realizing
that after all "living, not getting a living" is the true end of life. Every
vista forms a harmony so perfect that it satisfies the heart s most secret
longing for beauty, for size and colour and line and mass. Beside the
tremendous proportions of the mountains man is a mere insect, but
instead of feeling his insignificance he realizes with a sort of exultation
that this is his proper setting, that the mountains are no higher than
his aspiration — fit symbols of his "Babylonian heart."
Perhaps one of the reasons why so many people love Banff is
because they find there such a number of things to interest and amuse.
Banff has an infinite variety of attractions and she knows how to
please each of her lovers in his own way. For the botanist, geologist
or student of wild life she offers the opportunities of an unequalled
outdoor school. The sportsman finds golf, tennis, boating, swimming,
excellent roads for walking, riding, driving or motoring. For the lover
of nature there are scores of infinitely lovely districts — more than he
could possibly exhaust in a single season — accessible by road or trail.
View from Bow Bridge. — One of the spots where everyone
lingers at Banff is the bridge across the Bow. In early summer the
river is turbid with silt carried down by the spring freshets, but as the
season wears on this gradually disappears and the water settles to a
wonderful greenish-blue shot with amethyst shadows. All around is
the great circle of peaks which shuts in the valley. To the northeast
may be seen Cascade mountain, sitting like a grim old idol above the
town with the silver chain of a streamlet falling to its waist. This
mountain was formerly named Stoney Chief, while the smaller moun
tain to the left is Stoney Squaw. Beyond is mount Norquay called
after a distinguished son of Canada, a former premier of Manitoba
who was among the first visitors to Banff. To the north is the rugged
outline of the Sawback range. Far to the west stands out the snow-
crowned head of Pilot mountain, the chief peak of the Massive range

Climate 1 9
on which at certain seasons of the year the recumbent figure of the
Duke of Wellington may be clearly descried. The wooded slopes of
Sulphur mountain wall in the whole valley to the west, while the great
mass of mount Rundle closes the arc. This latter mountain, inseparably
associated with all memories of Banff, was named in honour of that
first missionary to the Stonies, who did so much to raise their standard
of living and who is still cherished in their hearts. "Poor he came
among us," they say, "and poor he went away, leaving us rich."
The Town Itself. — Banff has a permanent population of 1,500,
which is increased during the summer to about 6,000. Owing to the
fact that it is a government townsite it possesses many advantages
not usually found in a town of its size. The streets are broad, well
kept and well lighted. It has a fine hospital, three churches, a good
school and the best water supply in the Dominion. It has two banks,
a newspaper, a theatre and a number of stores. The office of the Super
intendent of the park is in the Museum building on Banff avenue at
the north end of Bow bridge. CLIMATE
"It is impossible not to dilate and expand under such skies.
One breathes deeply and steps proudly and if he have any of the
eagle nature in him it comes to the surface then." — Burroughs.
Banff, with an altitude of 4,486 feet above the sea, enjoys a climate
that is in many respects ideal. The rarity and purity of the air has an
effect as exhilarating as wine. Exertion of all kinds is easy but walking
especially is a delight. There is little moisture and less wind. Electric
storms occur infrequently and are not especially severe. There is a short
brilliant spring which begins about the first of April, followed by a three
months summer full of warm sunshiny days and pleasantly cool nights,
with the long northern twilight which lasts till nearly ten o'clock.
Although unfortunately few visitors remain for it, autumn is one of
the most delightful of all seasons in the mountains, the air with a tang
of frost in it, the roads in perfect condition for walking or motoring,
the hills gay with the bright yellows of the larches and poplars and the
brilliant reds of the shrubs. Winter usually sets in about the middle
of November and lasts till the middle of March, but even the winter
at Banff is delightful. The mountain world, held like a sleeping beauty
in the spell of the Frost King, seems to many lovelier than in summer.
Clear sharp frosts followed by chinook winds create a veritable fairy
land. Huge snow stalactites hang from the spruce trees; great snow
mushrooms, 10 feet across, sprout from the stumps; snow wreaths of
exquisite beauty gather in the still air on every bush and tree. The
great peaks, snow-clad from head to heels, shine in the dazzling sun
light like the towers of some Celestial City, so that the eye can hardly
bear to look upon them. The dry, windless atmosphere and sparkling
sunshine make it a joy to be out-of-doors. The delightful description

20

Rocky Mountains Park

of Robert Louis Stevenson, the Beloved Vagabond of the Out-of-Doors
in all weathers might have been written of Banff: "In the rare air,
clear cold and blinding light of Alpine winters, a man takes a certain
troubled delight in his own existence which can nowhere else be equalled.
He is perhaps no happier, but he is stingingly alive. He feels an
enthusiasm of the blood unknown in more temperate climates ....
You wake in the morning, see the gold upon the snowpeaks, become
filled with courage and bless God for your prolonged existence. The
valleys are but a stride to you. You cast your shoe over the hilltops.
Your ears and your heart sing. In the words of an unverified quota
tion from the Scotch psalms, you feel yourself fit 'on the wings of all
the winds to come flying all abroad'."
WINTER SPORTS
A carnival is held each winter which is attracting an increasing
number of visitors. It needs only a little more organization to
make Banff a winter sports resort equalling St. Moritz or Davos
Platz. Of late years many Canadians who formerly spent their winters
in the relaxing atmosphere of the South are beginning to realize that
the tingling air of Banff sets the red blood flowing in the veins, tightens
the slack nerve strings and builds up a resistance which only the North
can give. Even when the temperature sinks to zero the cold is scarcely
felt and all kinds of winter sports can be indulged in with enjoyment.
Ski-ing, tobogganing, snowshoeing, ski-joring, ice-boating and skating.

Ski-joring, Banff Winter Carnival
followed^y a warm plunge in the ice-fringed open air swimming pool,
make Banff, in the opinion of many, the finest winter playground on
the continent.

Accommodation at Banff

21

ACCOMMODATION
Banff offers hospitality calculated to suit every purse and every
taste. In addition to the large Canadian Pacific Railway hotel
there are several smaller hotels in the town, comfortably furnished,
modern in equipment and reasonable in price.
A large number of furnished cottages are also available during
the summer months. These contain all the necessities for housekeeping
with the exception of linen. Rents range from about $50 per month up.
The Alpine Club House, the headquarters of the Canadian Alpine
Club, is the rendezvous for climbers during the season. Situated half
way up the wooded slopes of Sulphur mountain it commands a beautiful
view of the Bow valley, and its friendly atmosphere and excellent chef
are gratefully remembered by all who share its hospitality. In addition
the club holds each year an annual camp which serves as a base for
climbing and walking expeditions. For those who are athletically
inclined this is one of the most delightful ways of becoming acquainted
with the mountains. Particulars as to rates and membership can be
secured from the Secretary of the Club at Banff.
Government Campsite. — The Government campsite at the junc
tion of the Bow and Spray rivers is popular with those who prefer to
live under canvas. The camp is connected with the town water supply.
A camping permit may be secured from the Superintendent for a merely
nominal fee.
The Banff Springs Hotel. — "The finest scenery in the world,"
says Leslie Stephen, "is improved by a good hotel in the foreground,"
and the saying is certainly
true of the Banff Springs
Hotel. It is one of the finest
and most luxurious on the
continent, equally noted for
the comfort of its appoint
ments and the excellence
of its cuisine. Its site, a
European visitor recently
remarked, is "sheer genius."
Perched on a sort of eyrie
above the Bow valley, it
commands one of the most
glorious views in the world.
Wide tile terraces lead down
to two outdoor pools, the
inner one of hot sulphur
water, the outer a perfect
half-circle of fresh water in
serted in the bright green of
a lawn which drops away into sheer space. Below lies the wonderful Bow
valley, magnificently framed between the wooded slopes of Tunnel moun
tain and the huge wall of mount Rundle, the latter towering up a mile from

Banff Springs Hotel, Bow" Valley

22

Rocky Mountains Park

the valley floor. And what a cosmopolitan crowd is that which gathers in
the wide lounges or about the open fires in the hotel after dinner! One
sees here distinguished scientists, travellers, explorers, statesmen, artists,
sportsmen and visitors from practically every country under the sun.
Tennis, water polo, swimming and diving in the warm sulphur pools,
with dancing at night, add to the gaiety ; the golf links are within easy
distance; ponies and motors can be secured at a few minutes' notice,
and when one is tired of more strenuous enjoyments it is sufficient to
sit on the broad terrace and watch the sun sparkling on the wonderful
green waters of the Bow, to see the cloud shadows drifting over the
peaks, the blue haze gathering in the valleys, or the little mists rising
up the sides of mount Rundle and sailing off as clouds into the inter
minable blue. MUSEUM AND ZOO
Among the interesting things to
be seen in the town itself are the
Government Museum and Zoo. The
former contains a very good collec
tion of big game and smaller animals,
as well as of the bird, fish and plant
life of the region. Indian relics
and examples of Indian handicraft,
including some very fine embroideries,
are also shown. All who are inter
ested in the natural history and
geology of the park are well advised
to pay an early visit to the
museum. Along the banks of the river
behind the museum is the zoo, where
in large well-kept cages may be
seen a most interesting collection
of wild animals, including black,
brown and grizzly bear, lynx, mar
tens, wolverines, coyotes, foxes and
other'animals. Pete, the Polar bear,
and the monkeys are objects of
special interest to children and the
cages are alwaj's a centre__of attrac
tion at feeding time.
HOT SPRINGS
If Banff had not become famous for its beauty it must
have become so for its hot springs, but the two 'combined,
together with its clear and bracing air, make it one of the finest health
resorts on the continent. The springs, it is said, were known to the
Indians long before the coming of the white man and there is even a

Black Bear in the Zoo, Banff

Hot Springs 23
story that old and rheumatic grizzlies had discovered that these warm
waters eased the ache in ancient bones. Be that as it may the existence
and value of these springs was one of the first things discovered on the
opening up of the mountains. In 1 880 the attention of surveyors who
were locating the line near Banff was attracted by a column of steam
rising from the mountain on the opposite side of the Bow valley, now
known as Sulphur mountain. Crossing the river by a rude raft of
trees, they found that the steam was issuing from a vent in the moun
tain side large enough to admit the body of a man. A rough ladder
of pine poles was hastily constructed and squeezing down the narrow
passage the most adventurous descended into the steaming darkness
below. A lighted torch revealed a cave about 40 feet across, the floor
of which was occupied by a natural pool fed by a subterranean
spring which had worn an outlet through a small tunnel at the side.
The discovery of the Cave spring was soon followed by that of the
Basin and Upper springs and later by the Kidney and Middle springs.
These five springs are all hot springs as distinguished from thermal
springs, that is they issue from the ground the year round with a
temperature of over 90 degrees F. The chief constituents of the waters
are calcium sulphate or gypsum, calcium bicarbonate and magnesium
sulphate, while sodium and potassium chlorides and sulphates, stron
tium and iron bicarbonates occur in smaller quantities. They are thus
very similar in composition to the famous springs at Bath, England.
Greater interest, however, attaches to the fact that the Banff springs
have been found to possess a high degree of radioactivity. As is well
known in recent years scientists have begun to consider whether the
presence of radium in mineral waters is not the most important factor
in their therapeutic value. It was observed that many springs exist
which are famous for their healing qualities which yet contain no
unusual constituents which might account for their beneficial effects.
Artificially prepared radioactive waters on the other hand were found
to cause a multiplication of the red blood cells, stimulation of the diges
tive processes and increased elimination of uric acid. This appeared
to give a clue to the possible source of the therapeutic value of many
well known springs. Prominent scientists, among whom were Sir
James Dewar and Sir William Ramsay, who investigated the historic
Bath springs, demonstrated the presence of helium, argon, krypton and
zenon, the rare gases of the atmosphere and showed that they were
the richest in radium and radium emanation of any spring in Great
Britain. An analysis of the Banff springs made in December, 1916,
by R. T. Elworthy, B.Sc, of the Department of Mines, demonstrated
that the composition of the gases in the Banff waters was practically
identical with the Bath springs, although the radioactivity was not
quite so high. The Banff springs are among the most important in
this respect to be found on this continent.
The total flow of the five chief springs at Banff was found by this
test to be about 40,000 gallons per hour, or approximately 1,000,000
gallons per day. As the test was made in winter and the flow is consider-

24

Rocky Mountains Park

ably higher during the spring and summer it is calculated that the
yearly outflow is in the neighbourhood of 2,000,000 tons per year.
The Upper Spring. — About three miles from Banff by a road
which winds up Sulphur mountain through straight lines of lodgepole
and jack pine is the Upper spring, situated about 500 feet above the
valley. This is the warmest of the five springs, having a temperature
of 1 1 5 degrees F., and it is here that most of the invalids seeking the
benefits of the Banff waters come. In early days a rude sanitarium
was erected at the springs and one of the interesting sights on the
adjacent hillside was the testimonials left by grateful sufferers as to the
efficacy of the cure. Sometimes these were a discarded cane or crutch,
sometimes a rough board bearing a record in prose or doggerel verse
of the patient's healing. Many of these read like the accounts of a
miracle. "1 had to be carried up to the springs," said one of these,
"could not bear even the motion of a carriage. I had not walked for
two years, and every movement was an agony. In three weeks after
coming here I walked down to Banff, and in five I ran a foot race.
Praise God." " I threw away the crutches I had used for four years,"
said another of these testimonials to the healing of the springs, "after
I had been here ten days. I walked with a stick for two weeks, and
then threw that away too." "A month after 1 began to take the
baths," says another, "I climbed to the top of Sulphur mountain. For
five years before then I had not been able to walk without a crutch.
Unfortunately this early sanitarium was burned down several years
ago and with it were destroyed these unique and touching testimonials.

The open air hot sulphur pool is one of the most popular spots in Banff
ann '^n^ ^P'''"g rises on the mountain side and the flow, which is over
800 gallons per minute, is carried down to the Government Bath-house
about IOO feet below. The latter is a small but completely equipped

Cave and Basin 25
establishment containing hot tub baths, steam-rooms, hot and cold
shower baths, sweat rooms and a large swimming pool. The tempera
ture of this pool is high even in winter and it is a common sight to see
bathers enjoying a comfortable outdoor swim in zero weather while
icicles hang thick about the sides.
The Kidney Spring. — A short distance away on the hillside is
another spring of smaller volume which is known as the Kidney spring.
Its waters contain lithia and they are considered to have special thera
peutic properties.
The Middle Springs. — A walk of about two miles up Sulphur
mountain from Bow bridge by a good road brings one to the Middle
springs. They are well worth a visit if only for the magnificent view
of the Bow valley which one obtains from this height. These springs
have an estimated flow of about 6,000 gallons per hour and as yet are
undeveloped. The water lies in natural rock pools, stained yellowish-
white by sulphur and containing myriads of the tiny water plants
known as algae. The vivid greens and purples of the latter give the
pools an almost sinister look. The spirits who haunt these subter
ranean born waters, one feels, must be very different from those which
guard the cold and crystalline lakes. One peeps into the narrow half-
cave from which the spring issues. Who knows! perhaps it may be
the haunt of the Under-water people whose drums are still heard by
the Indians on spring nights. There is no sign of spirit habitation but
all around the edge of the cave may be seen little piles of dry grasses.
It is probable that these are the work of the Pika, or little chief hare of the
mountains who is called the Haymaker from his habit of piling up grass
to dry for food. With his usual sagacity, he seems to have discovered
that this little steam-heated apartment makes a comfortable home.
Cave and Basin Springs. — The Cave and Basin springs are situ
ated on Cave avenue about one mile west of the town. Here the
Government has erected one of the finest public bathing establish
ments on the continent. The building is of re-enforced concrete faced
with native blue limestone, which harmonizes admirably with the sur
roundings. Two belvideres roofed with red Spanish tile give the
necessary note of colour.
The swimming pool, 1 50 feet long and 35 feet wide, is the largest
of its kind in Canada. Dressing rooms capable of accommodating 1 32
persons extend along the south side of the pool with two wide terraces
above, where visitors may promenade and view the pool. The north
side is enclosed by massive plate-glass windows which serve to shelter
bathers from the wind and at the same time afford charming glimpses
of the encircling peaks. For a merely nominal fee one may have the
use of a dressing room, locker, bathing suit and towels in addition to a
bath. A comfortable sunroom furnished with easy chairs provides a
place to rest after the exertions of swimming. It is no wonder that this is
one of the most popular attractions in Banff and that it accommodates
hundreds of bathers every day. The temperature of the water is
about 85 degrees F.

26 Rocky Mountains Park
The Cave. — The southeastern belvidere forms the entrance to
the Cave, the first hot spring discovered at Banff. The natural passage
way eroded by the action of the escaping water through which one
formerly crawled in half darkness to the cave has been considerably
enlarged and is now lighted by electricity. Passing through this rocky
hallway the visitor finds himself in a small chamber roughly circular
in shape, about 50 feet across and 30 feet high. The walls are of
porous limestone, covered in places with florescent crystals. A pool
of greenish white water occupies a great part of the floor and the gases
rising from it fill the air with a sulphurous steam. From an orifice in
the roof a shaft of light falls through the darkness, with the effect of
some medieeval picture, dimly illuminating the cave and revealing the
constant agitation of the pool. Although unstirred by breeze or pass
ing air, its waters are never still. Little waves ceaselessly lap the rocky
rim, tiny shudders run across its face, great bubbles of gas tremble
constantly up like sighs from its hidden depths. The water in the pool
is from two to five feet deep but so clear that it seems as if every grain
of sand could be counted in its bed. As the eye becomes accustomed
to the half light, freakish bits of natural carving stand out on the walls —
faces of gnomes and animals, a head which bears a strong resemblance
to Joseph Chamberlain, another which, fitly enough in this sulphurous
atmosphere, takes the form of Mephistopheles himself. Nearly 300
gallons of water per minute heated to a temperature of 85 degrees
bubble up from the unseen source which feeds the spring. The over
flow, which is conducted down the tunnel, serves to constantly renew
the water of the large swimming pool in the baths.
The Basin Spring. — Behind the cave is another spring flowing
into an open pool about 25 by 40 feet, overhung by a rocky wall. This
was the first swimming pool. The temperature of the water is 94
degrees, or 9 degrees higher than that of the cave which is cooled by
the entrance of a stream of fresh water that drops down at the back.
The floor of the Basin pool is of black sand through which the water
can be seen constantly bubbling up. The overflow from this spring
also feeds the big swimming pool.
GOLF AMONG THE CLOUDS
The golf links at Banff have an altitude of about 4,500 feet and
the surrounding scenery is so glorious that one is furnished with a per
fectly reasonable excuse for not keeping one's eye on the ball. The
links are owned and operated by the Government and their location is
superb. They are situated just below the junction of the Bow and
Spray rivers within ten minutes walk from the Banff Springs hotel.
The great facade of mount Rundle rises directly from the right and the
talus slopes at its base form the resting place of many a lost ball.
High up on its ledges you frequently see a band of mountain goats,
detached spectators, apparently, of the game.

Golf Links 27
The course was originally a nine hole one but in 1 920 an extension
of nine holes was laid out by Donald Ross, the eminent golf architect,
who has designed most of the famous courses in America, a fact which is

On the Banff Golf Links
View from Clubhouse showing snow capped Inglismaldie in distance.
sufficient guarantee of the sportiness of the course. A small but com
fortable clubhouse meets the needs of visitors and dispenses afternoon
tea accompanied by the most delicious of homemade bread and jam.
A professional is in attendance throughout the season.
The clear bracing air of the mountains makes the game particu
larly enjoyable and tempts many visitors to linger on at Banff. On
the wide terrace of the Banff Springs hotel a lady knitting, with a
composure which does not belong to the three-day tourist, said in
reply to a question, "Yes, we came to Banff two months ago to stay
two days but John started playing golf and we are here yet." The Prince
of Wales on his recent trip through Canada also fell under the spell of
the Banff links and spent there the better part of two days.
RIVER TRIPS
Bow River near Banff. — In some European galleries a mirror-
topped table is provided so that one can study the wonderful frescoes
high up on the walls and roof. Nature, with her unerring instinct for
the beautiful, has provided a similar mirror at Banff. The quiet
reaches of the Bow river from Banff to about eight miles above offer
delightful opportunities for boating and one of the hest ways of viewing
the panorama of peaks on both sides of the valley. Rounding the base

28 Rocky Mountains Park
of Sulphur mountain the river winds between low banks bordered with
overhanging willows and poplars, affording constantly changing pictures
of the magnificent entourage of mountains mirroring their great grey

Mt. Rundle and Vermilion Lakes, Banff
"Imaged in a watery glass."
faces in the quiet waters of the little stream. To the right can 'be seen
the sharply serrated outline of the Sawback range and the slim spire
of beautiful mount Edith ; to the left are the rear slopes of Sulphur and
the great bulk of mount Bourgeau and the two other great peaks
of the Massive range, mount Brett and Pilot mountain.
The quiet restful beauty of this little trip makes it one of the most
popular in the park. During the season launches leave the wharf west
of the Bow bridge several times daily. Rowboats and canoes may also
be rented by the day or hour.
Echo River and Shadow Creek. — Echo river and Shadow
creek, the latter a tree-bordered shady waterway to the Vermilion
lakes, offer pleasant opportunities for canoeing and a paddle up their
cool reaches at any time of the day makes a delightful excursion.
Upper and Lower Reaches of Bow. — For the expert canoeist
two trips which offer fine scenery, excitement and excellent fishing are
the upper and lower reaches of the Bow. For the first a canoe may be
shipped by train to either Castle station or Eldon and the run made
from this point to Banff. In high water the trip can be done in a day
but to do it justice it is better to take two or three days. A stop over
at Redearth creek enables one to see the whirlpool and canyon and
affords a chance to capture a gamey Cutthroat trout. Below is the
"white water" of the rapids, a run which will test the nerve of even an
expert swift-water man. For the lower trip a canoe may be taken
below the Bow falls and the run made to the junction of the Bow and
ICananaskis rivers at Seebee. This also affords swift water and suffi
cient thrills, as well as opportunities for fishing at some of the best
trout pools on the river. As has been said these trips are for the
expert; anyone else should enlist the services of a guide

A Mountain Pass
CHAPTER 3
WALKS, DRIVES, CLIMBS AND TRAILS ABOUT BANFF
WALKS
"It requires a direct dispensation from Heaven to become a
walker." — Thoreau.
One of the best ways of seeing any mountain district is on foot.
In the Alps it has long been a favourite form of travel but in the Rockies
until recently roads have been few and places of accommodation far
between. The recent completion of the motor highway to lake Louise
opens up new possibilities for the pedestrian for it is now possible to
traverse the entire length of the park on foot and even to go on to
Field and the Yoho valley. The Alpine Club of Canada is doing much
to arouse interest in this form of travel. In 1920 it inaugurated a
Walking Tour Camp, the first of its kind in the Rockies, near mount
Assiniboine, which attracted nearly 300 persons. The intention is to
make this camp a permanent institution and if successful later to esta
blish other camps at interesting points in the park. Such camps should
do much to revive the healthful art of walking, much neglected in these
motor car days, and to re-establish in the mountains that "ancient
order of walkers" which, as Thoreau says, is a sort of Fourth Estate,
outside church and state and people.
From Bow to Spray Bridge. — Long walks of this kind require
that a person must be vigorous and in training. But there are many
delightful short walks about Banff which can be enjoyed by anyone
who is moderately active. Indeed one of the most delightful — from the
Bow to the Spray bridge — is only a mile long. To walk along this path
early any summer's day, when the river is unrolling itself in the radiance
of the morning and every poplar leaf is twinkling and glistening in the
sun, makes one glad of mere existence. Every few feet brings a new
picture, dominated now by Cascade, now by Rundle, and each one is a
surprise and enchantment.
Up Tunnel Mountain. — Another beautiful though longer walk
is up Tunnel mountain, a walk which will take from two to three hours.
Tunnel is a wooded knob between mounts Cascade and Rundle.

30 Walks, Drives, Climbs and Trails
Geologists believe that it was once a part of the latter mountain, broken
off in some cataclysm of nature. The road around the mountain climbs
about two-thirds of the way up and from it a bridle path leads to the
top. The road is open to motors but all who are fond of walking are
advised to take it on foot or, as a second best suggestion, by pony-back.
The views along the way and from the summit are magnificent and it
is the most accessible point from which some conception of the glory
of the mountain ranges can be obtained. The valley of the Bow as
far as the Vermilion lakes to the west, the town itself, the slopes of
Sulphur, the falls, the wooded valley of the Spray with Goat mountain
in the background, the Bow valley to the east with a glimpse of lake
Minnewanka and its surrounding peaks, all lie open before you. The
bowl-shaped plateau at the top is a favourite picnic spot.
Sulphur Mountain. — The walk through the woods to the summit
of Sulphur mountain is also a favourite one. The distance to the top is
about six and three-quarter miles and the return trip may be made in
from four to six hours. If desired motors may be taken to the Upper
Hot springs and the rest of the climb taken on foot, a distance of about
four and a quarter miles, or ponies may be taken the entire way. The
path winds through the pine woods, passing the Alpine club-house and
the Upper Hot springs. On the summit is the Government Meteorologi
cal Station, where observations regarding the weather are recorded. Here
with lungs " filled with the winds of heaven" one gazes at a magnificent
panorama, "the mountainous wrack of a creation hurled." With the
exception perhaps of the Little Beehive at lake Louise there is no point
from which such an extensive view of the Bow valley can be obtained.
From this point the wave-like, or "echelon" formation of the eastern
ridges with their sharply uptilted folds is clearly visible, as are also
the great snow-covered peaks to the west. The wide valley of the
Bow, carved through glacial deposits of from 200 to 300 feet thick, is
visible for miles with lake Minnewanka, Fortymile creek and the
Vermilion lakes set like bits of looking-glass in the jade green frame of
the forest. All around is a magnificent array of peaks with thrilling
glimpses of the great snow-covered summits massed along the Divide.
Cascade and Rundle Mountains. — Good trails also lead up
Cascade and Rundle mountains and ponies may be taken part way.
These climbs may be made in about six hours, but it is better to start
in the morning, take a lunch with you and rest an hour or two on the
summit. Mount Rundle affords a wonderful panorama of the whole
district and especially fine views of the Fairholme range to the east
and the Assiniboine group to the south with the white pyramid of mount
Assiniboine out-topping the rest of the peaks. Cascade also makes a
very fine trip and if desired ponies may be taken to timber line. Here
there IS a remarkable natural amphitheatre which looks as if it might
have been formed for the sessions of the gods of the mountains. Indeed
It these ranges have their presiding deities Cascade may well claim to
be their Parnassus. A rather stiff climb takes one the remainder of
the way to the summit.

Lake Minnewanka 31
Sundance canyon, the Spray Valley road, lake Minnewanka, the
Ghost River valley, and Mount Edith pass are also favourite objectives
for walks and there are many more extended trips which can be taken,
especially if the party numbers two or three, by the addition of a pack-
pony to carry supplies. DRIVES
Nearly 200 miles of roads radiate from Banff and, with
the exception of the Spray Valley road, all of these are open to
motors. The Spray road is reserved for the use of horses and riding
ponies. It is one of the most delightful spots for a gallop in the park.
The road skirts the Spray river among beautiful pines, affording fine
views of mount Rundle and Goat mountain. It is open for eight miles
to the old lumber camp.
For the motorist with sufficient time at his disposal there are three
fine trips: the motor highway to the eastern boundary of the park, a
distance of about 35 miles; the same road west over Vermilion summit
to the end of construction; and the extension road to lake Louise.
All of these trips should be taken if possible.
There are also a number of drives about the town: up Tunnel
mountain; the Loop about the golf links, passing the Hoodoos; the
drive to the Upper Hot springs, a spot which affords a particularly
fine view of the Bow valley ; to the Cave and Basin and on to Sun
dance canyon; and to lake Minnewanka, passing the buffalo paddock.
Two places along the motor road west. Mount Edith pass and Johnston
canyon are also favourite objectives, the latter being the most popular
tally-ho drive in the park.
Sundance Canyon. — Sundance canyon is a wild and romantic
spot about four miles west of the town. The origin of the name is
uncertain. Some authorities claim that it is derived only from the
sparkling of the sunshine on the leaping water, while others say that
in former times this was the site where the Indians held their sacred
festival, the Sun Dance, the ordeal of courage through which the young
braves were initiated into the tribe.
The canyon is a huge crack in the limestone formation through
which the stream, half-hidden at times beneath enormous boulders,
finds its way, leaping in little cascades from step to step but never
attaining the dignity of a waterfall. Ralph Connor, the novelist,
who once filled a pastorate at Banff, refers to this spot in one of his well-
known books, and the wild charm and lonely beauty of the place make
it a favourite resort with all who come to know Banff well.
Lake Minnewanka Drive. — Lake Minnewanka (4,800 feet),
about eight miles from Banff, is a beautiful sheet of water lying in a deep
valley between high mountains. The drive to the lake is a very pleasant
one, passing the buffalo paddocks, skirting the base of Cascade moun
tain and passing through Bankhead, a small mining town distinguished
as being the place where "briquettes" — a form of fuel much used in the
west — are manufactured. Mount Inglismaldie (9,715 feet) is prominent
5489—3

32

Walks, Drives, Climbs and Trails

to the right. Beyond, the road follows the gorge of the Cascade
river, a capricious, mad-hearted stream which, after cutting a gorge
through a veneer of morainal debris and 30 feet of rock, caps its way
wardness by flowing into lake Minnewanka, only to flow out again
within a few hundred yards.
The lake is what Scherzer calls a "leaf-shaped" lake. It is about
13 miles long, never more than two miles wide and is formed like the
letter S. Its greatest beauty lies in the wonderful blue of its waters,
a veritable blue-bird blue that to many recalls the Mediterranean.
Two small chalets provide accommodation for guests and a large
launch makes return trips up the lake twice daily. This is one of the
most popular fishing spots near Banff, famed as being the home of the
"Minnewanka trout," the largest fish found in park waters, speci
mens of which have been taken weighing as much as forty pounds.
Salmon trout, an introduced fish, may also be taken in this lake. Small
boats may be obtained at the chalet as well as the services of guides
wise in the knowledge of the best fishing spots.
The name "Minnewanka" is from the Stoney Indian word for "Spirit
Water," and the legend connected with it says that when the Stonies
first came to this district an Indian who was up on the mountain side
saw the fins and back of a monster fish swimming in the lake. To get
some idea of its measurements he took out his hunting knife and held
it out in front of him as a guage. Both the head and tail projected
beyond the knife. This would make the fish about a mile long, rivalling
the famous sea-serpent. Naturally such an apparition must be due
to the presence of spirits. Whether the monster was ever seen again
history does not relate. Certain it is the lake has always been asso
ciated with stories of big fish. The Cree name for the lake is Muchi-
manitou-sa-gi-agun, literally "devil's lake," a name formerly in use but
changed a number of years ago to the more euphonious Minnewanka.
Geologists believe that
through the valley in which
lake Minnewanka lies the
Bow river once flowed out
to the plains by way of the
Devils gap. When the front
ranges of the Rockies were
uplifted the river took the
easier way of the Cascade
trough. During the whole
glacial period the valley was
occupied by a huge glacier
Lake Mmnewanka which has left the marks of its
Showing "Gibraltar" rock to the right claws on the mountain walls
, , . and which gouged out the
rocky basm some 300 feet deep in which the lake now lies. Traces of
the tributary glaciers which filled the Bow and Cascade valleys are seen
m the thick morainal deposit at the western end.

Lake Minnewanka 33
The trail along the north side of the lake was once an Indian high
way and there is no place in the park so rich in Indian associations as
the surrounding district. This was a favourite hunting ground of the
Crees and later of the Stonies, although the Indian seems to have
regarded the whole region with a kind of superstitious dread. The
Devils Head, that lowering summit, black throughout the year, which
seems to gaze in all directions, always gave him a certain uneasiness.
In early days votive offerings consisting of pipes, beaded pouches,
tobacco and tomahawks were to be found on its ledges. His Satanic
Majesty, someone has said, appears to have had a pre-emption on this
region. There is the Devils canyon at the west, the Devils Gap at
the east, the Devils Head at the north, and the lake itself was also
assigned if not consigned to the devil.
The south side of the lake is guarded by mounts Inglismaldie and
Girouard with mount Peechee rising up almost directly behind. To the
north are mount Costigan and mount Aylmer (10,335 feet), the latter
the highest peak in the Banff vicinity and one of the favourite climbs.
A little more than half-way down the lake the trail branches off to
Aylmer canyon, one of the most striking canyons in the park with walls
ranging from 200 to 600 feet deep.
The open meadows near the lower end of the lake were formerly
an Indian camping ground and here Sir George Simpson and his party,
the first white men to enter the district, rested after passing through
the Devils Gap. Among the stories told him at that time by the
Indians Sir George relates the following: —
"The defile through which we had just passed had been the
scene of an exploit highly characteristic of savage life. One of
the Crees, whom we saw at Gull lake, had been tracked into
the valley, along with his wife and family, by five youths of a
hostile tribe. On perceiving the odds that were against him,
the man gave himself up for lost, observing to the woman that,
as they could die but once, they had better make up their minds
to submit to their present fate without resistance. The wife,
however, replied that, as they had but one life to lose, they were
more decidedly bound to defend it to the last, even under the
most desperate circumstances; adding that, as they were young
and by no means pitiful, they had an additional motive for
preventing their hearts becoming small. Then, suiting the
action to the word, the heroine brought the foremost warrior to
the earth with a bullet, while the husband, animated by a
mixture of shame and hope, disposed of two more of the enemy
with his arrows. The fourth, who had by this time come to
pretty close quarters, was ready to take vengeance on the
courageous woman with uplifted tomahawk, when he stumbled
and fell ; and in the twinkling of an eye the dagger of his intended
victim was buried in his heart. Dismayed at the death of his four
companions, the sole survivor of the assailing party saved himself
by flight, after wounding his male opponent by a ball in the arm."
25489—31

34

Walks, Drives, Climbs and Trails

Motor Road West to Johnston Creek. — Leaving Banff the
road crosses the railway in the vicinity of the station and turning to the
left, skirts the beautiful Vermilion lakes with mount Rundle's familiar
saddleback mirrored in their calm waters. To the northeast is the
massive bulk of Cascade moun
tain, formerly called Stoney Chief,
with Stoney Squaw humbly at
his feet and mount Norquay a
little to the left. The road
follows the Bow valley, affording
glimpses of the river which is
here a quiet, tree - bordered
stream. On the right the moun
tains rise bare and lofty, form
ing a jagged knifelike crest, so
sharp that it seems to have
been cut out of pasteboard.
About four and a half miles out
the graceful head of mount
Edith appears looking over a
shoulder of the Sawback range.
Near this point a flock of Big
horn sheep frequently disputes
the right of way, affording ex
cellent opportunities for the
camera. Across the valley may
be seen the rear slopes of Sul
phur and the impressive bulk of
mount Bourgeau, one of the three
great peaks of the Massive range.
Soon on the right Hole-in-the-
Johnston Canyon Wall mountain appears with what
seems to be a window in its side.
This is a natural cave about 150 feet long and 50 feet in diameter at
its mouth, carved in the mountain 1,500 feet above the valley. A
few years ago a Masonic lodge conferred its degrees in this awe-inspiring
spot. Soon the striking outline of Castle mountain looms up ahead
dominating the vista to the west in the centre of the valley. Two miles
before reaching Johnston creek the road passes through the Hillsdale
hills, a beautiful park-like area with low grassy hills, a favourite
haunt of deer. Far away to the left on the Vermilion summit, showing
between Copper and Pilot mountains, we catch a thrilling glimpse of
mount Ball over on the Continental Divide, with its gleaming helmet
of snow. Directly in front is Pilot mountain, so called because its
curious thumb-like peak is a landmark for miles in all directions and
was the guide of many an early traveller in the days before the railroad.
Coming in from the right almost opposite Pilot mountain is Johnston
creek.

Banff -CaUfornia Bee Line

35

Leaving the motors the trail is taken up the canyon, a walk of a
little over half a mile. So many persons visit the spot during the season
that each year the path is worn away by their feet. Below tumbles
the little stream, its waters so crystalline clear that they reveal every
pebble on its tawny, sunflecked bed. The trail crosses and recrosses
the canyon by means of flying rustic bridges. In some places the

.*-^l»L«fe5

Along the Motor Highway
"In that clear invigorating mountain air we dined with an appetite that kings might envy and on
beds of balsam boughs sank at night into a ten fathom sleep beyond the gift of the most luxurious 'Ostermoor'.' *
rocky walls are over 1 00 feet high and less than 20 feet apart. Potholes,
high up on the sides, reveal the immense number of years the water has
been in action. At the upper end of the canyon the stream plunges in a
charming fall into a rocky basin called the Twin pool. Above the
entrance to the little natural tunnel which gives access to the pool is a
curious bit of nature's carving. It is the head of a dog sculptured in
the rock and apparently guarding the cave, the Cerberus of the canyon.
The Banff-California Bee Line. — West of Johnston creek the
motor highway proceeds to Castle station and, one mile beyond, crosses
the Bow river. Turning to the left it ascends the Little Vermilion
valley for nine miles to the summit and thence down into British
Columbia. The Vermilion pass, which is the lowest in the park, has
an altitude of 5,264 feet, with an easy grade on both sides. A climb

36 Walks, Drives, Climbs and Trails
of 600 feet is made in the nine miles. Storm mountain on the east and
Boom on the west guard the pass, with mount Whymper, named in
honour of the hero of the Matterhorn who has also done some climbing
in the Rockies, showing through the gap.
A few miles over the summit there is a fine canyon resembling the
famous canyon of the Maligne in Jasper Park only on a smaller scale. It
is a box canyon about 30 feet wide and 100 deep cut down by the
waters of Tokumn creek which drains Prospector valley. A stratum
of marble running through the rock gives the canyon its name, "Marble
Canyon." At the upper end there is a fine fall of from 60 to 70 feet.

Castle Mountain
"The rocky summits split and rent. Form'd turret, dome or battlement."
About ten miles of road are open on the western side of the Divide
and the Government is now constructing the 52 miles which will
link up the highway with the road from Golden through the Colum
bia valley. This is the last link necessary to open the motor road across
the Rockies. As soon as it is completed motorists will be, able to get
through to Spokane, Vancouver and California by a direct route. It
will also make possible an extension of the United States National
Park-to-Park Highway from Glacier National Park north to Leth-
bridge, Macleod and Calgary and thence to Banff, traversing the Banff
National Park — with an extension to lakes Louise and Moraine — and
over the summit to the Columbia valley. From this point the motorist
will have the choice of returning via the Crowsnest route to Lethbridge,
visitirig Waterton Lakes Park on the way, or of going on to Spokane
and linking up with one of the through American highways. Either
route constitutes a tour of absolutely unrivalled interest and scenic
beauty and thousands of motorists are impatiently awaiting the com
pletion of this section.

Castle to Lake Louise 37
Castle-Lake Louise Highway. — This extension of about 17
miles from the main highway from Castle was opened at the close of
1920. Leaving Castle the road follows the Bow valley, with the im
mense mass of the mountain from which it derives its name standing
out as the chief feature of the landscape. Castle mountain practically
named itself. It is a giant fortress with walls a mile high on a found
ation eight miles long, complete with turrets, bastions and battlements.
High on its rocky wall a natural drawbridge, portcullis and gateway
can be clearly seen and it needs little stretch of the imagination to
believe that the mighty doorway might be rolled back at any moment
and a troop of mediaeval knights and ladies come riding forth. There
is a legend that this mountain is the home of the Chinook wind, the
little blind daughter of the South wind, and that she has been seen
sometimes stealing down from its battlements to the prairies, seeking
her lost parent and leaving spring behind her wherever her feet have
trod. An interesting and little explored region containing a vast
amphitheatre of ice lies on the other side of the mountain.
West of Castle is the line of demarcation between the eastern and
younger formation of the Rockies and the westem and older. Here the
"writing desk" mountains like Rundle, or the sharply serrated peaks such
as the Sawback, give place to the massive "block" type, The outline
of many of these masses is magnificent. They suggest sublime archi
tectural creations as if some celestial Michael Angelo or Christopher
Wren had wrought into stone the dreams of a thousand years.
Temple Mountain. — With each mile the scenery grows more
impressive as the snow peaks draw near. We are approaching the
magnificent entourage of peaks along the Divide known as the Laggan
group, a royal company of peers, the majority over 1 1 ,000 feet in
height. Soon between Gothic roofs you catch a glimpse of the blue-
green of glaciers and the gleam of perpetual snow. The Bow valley
widens out to several miles and through its green floor the river "winds
about and in and out," rushing down from the Divide apparently in
a terrific hurry to get to the plains. Towering up to the left is sublime
mount Temple (1 1,626 feet), out-topping every other peak in the park
with the exception of Assiniboine. Seen from the Bow valley it is
hard to realize its tremendous proportions but perhaps as you look at
it a drifting stratum of cloud high above will float lazily across it,
wreathing it to your amazement only shoulder high and leaving its
beautiful cone, whiter by several shades than the vapoury cloud scarf,
suspended in mid heavens as if by some magician's wand. But to
grasp properly the scale of dimensions upon which the Architect of the
Universe has laid out the plan of this structure you must go to the
valley of the Ten Peaks and view at close hand those tremendous walls
carved into huge buttresses, or from the summit of Saddleback look
down the 2,000 foot abyss to its base. As you gaze at its great walls.
over 7,000 feet high, and the wonderful dome of glittering snow which
crowns it, the noblest edifice erected by man seems a mere toy. Old

38

Walks, Drives, Climbs and Trails

when the temples of Greece and Jerusalem were unthought of, it
still stands, seemingly indestructible, a building "not made with hands,
eternal in the heavens." Mount Temple was first climbed in 1894.
The ascent is not particu
larly difficult and the pano
rama it affords of the myriad
far-reaching peaks and inter
lacing valleys is a truly glori
ous one. The jagged outlines of
the Ten Peaks which guard
Moraine lake are soon visi
ble to the left and just before
reaching Lake Louise station
you catch a glimpse of the
lofty summits of Victoria and
Lefroy. From the station the
road ascends via the carriage
road to lake Louise itself,
"Pearl of the Canadian
Rockies." This spot alone
would be sufficient lure to
bring a motorist many scores
of miles but the road has still
other beauties to offer. An
extension of nine miles more
takes one to the wild and
lovely Moraine lake in the
wonderful and impressive
valley of the Ten Peaks,

On the Moraine Lake Drive
"Mt. Temple's gabled top rises 6.000 feet above, ornamented
by an exquisite hanging glacier."

and from this point the visitor may explore on foot the neighbouring
Paradise and Consolation valleys, two of thejoveliest valleys in the park.
MOUNTAIN CLIMBING
"What does he know of mountains who only the valley knows.'
"It is becoming more apparent every year," says Mr. W. D .
Wilcox, the American author and climber, who has done much valuable
exploration work in the Rocky Mountains Park, " that this part of the
Rockies is not only a great field for Alpine climbing in its strictest
meaning, but undoubtedly the most extensive and interesting field
presented by any readily accessible range in the world. That such
men as Collie, Stutfield, Woolley and Whymper have come over from
England several seasons to climb here, that the Appalachian Mountain
Club represented by Abbot, who lost his life on mount Lefroy, Fay,
Weed, Thompson and others, and expert climbers such as Outram and
Eggers, have found climbs that tested their powers to the utmost, or
repelled all attacks, even under the leadership of expert Swiss guides,
tells much about the real nature of the climbing."

Trips from Banff

39

Climbs at Banff. — While Lake Louise is the centre for true
Alpine climbing, Banff offers a splendid field for the amateur and a
good training ground for those who seek to do more ambitious work.
Sulphur, Cascade and Rundle
mountains are climbs within the
attainment of every vigourous
person and require no guide.
Mount Norquay affords some
good opportunities for rock work
and is frequently climbed by
members of the Canadian Alpine
Club. Mount Edith, which has
been likened to the Little Dru,
at Montanvert, and mount Louis,
two dolomite peaks, are very
interesting climbs but too diffi
cult for the amateur. Mount
Aylmer, near lake Minnewanka,
is the highest peak in the im
mediate neighbourhood while
the finest peak in the park,
mount Assiniboine, is only 20
miles to the south.
TRAIL TRIPS FROM BANFF
The visitor who leaves with
out having taken a trail trip has
missed one of the chief joys of
the Rockies. The traveller by
the railway goes away believing
he has seen the parks whereas
he has touched only their merest
fringe. Range after range of
mountains as beautiful as those Nearing the top
he has looked upon stretch away
to the confines of the park, hiding equally wonderful valleys, canyons,
lakes and waterfalls. These can be reached only by trail and for those
who can spare the time there is no way of seeing the parks which can
compare with a trip of this kind. For if you want to know the real heart
of the mountains you have to go off alone and live and camp among
them. In the mountains, as everywhere else, "Pan does not come for
the calling." He will seldom consent to show himself to a crowd of
tourists. But if you put on the pilgrim's habit of khaki and corduroy
and travel to the holy land of the wilderness you are practically certain
to find him. There are nearly 700 miles of trails in Rocky Mountains
Park, a large part of which radiate from Banff. More than a score of
trips may be taken and practically everyone will yield good fishing,
wonderful scenery and a glimpse into the heart of nature which will

40

Walks, Drives, Climbs and Trails

be worth more than many books. A list of licensed guides who will
outfit a party for an expedition of any length and supply the necessary
tents, ponies and other equipment may be obtained from the Govern
ment Information Bureau, Banff.

Breaking Camp
"Who hath smelt wood-smoke at twilight ? Who hath heard the birch-log burning ?
Who is quick to read the voices of the night?
Let him follow with the others, for the young men's feet are turning
To the camps of proved desire and known delight." .—Kipling.
The Mountain Pony. — When one comes to the question of trail
trips the mountain pony deserves a word to himself for, if the camel be
the ship of the desert, the pony is the mountain express. He is the
only means of access to some of the most enchanting districts and let
us hope he will long remain so.
The "cayuse," as he is familiarly called, is guaranteed to be "wise
to the mountains and fool-proof." Born and bred in the mountains
he is a type all by himself, hardy, sure and clean of foot. In disposition
he IS wayward, inquisitive and about as far removed from altruistic
as can be imagined. He has, though, such a supreme regard for his
own neck that you soon learn to trust him with yours. He can travel
along a perilous ledge over a thousand foot precipice with a superb
nonchalance that compels respect, admiration and at last confidence.
He can climb like a mountain goat and slide down a mountain side like
an equestrian toboggan, landing nine times out of ten without a scratch.

Good Fishing Lakes 41
He will carry his swaying pack burden through a hopeless tangle of
forest and fallen logs or swim a mountain stream a few degrees above
freezing. His wicked little rolling eye suggests that he may have "ways
that are dark and tricks that are vain," but the majority of these ponies
are so well broken that they can be ridden by anyone whether he has
ever been on a horse before or not. If you happen to belong to the
latter class, the guide assures you, "Sure, I've taken out folks that
didn't know which end of a horse went first but we ain't ever had any
accidents," and you find that you can trust both him and the pony to
see that you don't.
The origin of the mountain ponies is shrouded in mystery but it
is believed they are Indian breed originally imported from Mexico
or South America, probably a cross between the mustang and the horses
introduced by the Spaniards in the conquest of Mexico. Smaller than
the Indian horse of the prairie they are equally strong, untiring and
fleet. Though only fourteen hands high they can carry a man or heavy
pack with ease up the steepest of mountain trails and their hardy
nature enables them to endure all sorts of weather in winter or summer.
One of the most picturesque sights at Banff during the season is the
departure of a pack-train for the wilderness. If the expedition is to
last several weeks sometimes thirty ponies will be required, the neces
sary equipment being fastened in huge bundles to the broncho's back
by the famous "diamond hitch," an ingenious combination of loops and
twists of the rope said to be imported from Mexico, a trick which many
outfitters in the early days paid $100 to learn.
Spray Lakes. — One of the most popular trips from Banff, on
account of the splendid fishing it affords, is that to the Spray lakes.
The trail starts from Banff, following the wooded valley of the Spray
to its fork. Here the trail divides, the right branch leading to the
foot of the lower Spray lake, the left, over White Man pass between
Goat range and the Three Sisters to the upper and lower lakes. The
scenery along the way is fine and the fishing at the lakes excellent.
Cutthroat and Dolly Varden trout run to a good size and practically
everyone who goes in secures all that the law allows him to take,
namely, fifteen fish per day. This trip can be made in from four to
five days. The round distance is about 60 miles.
Kananaskis Lakes. — An extension trip of about 23 miles takes
one on to the beautiful Kananaskis lakes. These lakes are situated
near the eastern boundary of the park and have long been noted both
for their scenery and their fishing. The Kananaskis river unites them
and half way between the two there is a lovely waterfall. The upper
lake is a beautiful body of water dotted with wooded islands and
encircled by high peaks down which hangs the airy veil of a silver
waterfall 1,000 feet in height. The lower lake is noted for its big trout,
the largest and finest cutthroat in the mountains being obtained here.
This trip takes about ten days.

42

Walks, Drives, Climbs and Trails

Upper Kananaskis Lake
The Ghost River Valley. — This is a trail trip which deserves
to be taken much oftener than it is. The motor road is followed to
lake Minnewanka and then the trail leads round the right shore of the
lake, passing Aylmer canyon and out through Devils Gap to the Ghost
river, a distance of about 1 7 miles from the lake. The scenery is
exceptionally beautiful and the curious feature of it is that the stream
itself, like some of the fabled rivers of old, descends for a time to the
lower regions, reappearing some 12 miles below. After the spring
freshets the bed of the main river is entirely dry, the water following
some subterranean channel for almost a dozen miles. The neighbour
hood is also rich in fossils.
Several explanations have been given for the name "Ghost river,"
but the Indians themselves say it is due to the fact that many years
ago there used to be a wild white horse running among these hills and
though they tried repeatedly they never could catch him. They decided
therefore that he could be nothing but a ghost. Those who know the
Stoney's ability as a hunter are inclined to agree.
To Mount Assiniboine. — Another deservedly popular trip is to
mount Assiniboine. This is the most famous peak in the park and the
goal of all ambitious climbers. It may be reached by three different
trails: by Spray valley and Assiniboine pass, by Healy creek and
Simpson pass, or by way of Brewster creek and Assiniboine pass. In
1920 the Alpine Club of Canada held its first Walking Tour Camp at
the base of mount Assiniboine and it is the intention to continue the
camp from year to year.

To Mt. Assiniboine

43

Mount Assiniboine, 11,860 feet high, is the loftiest peak in the
Banff park. From the top of Sulphur mountain on a clear day its
beautiful pyramidal head may be seen towering shoulder high above
the surrounding peaks and losing itself
in the clouds. It was named after the
Assiniboine tribe of Indians by Dr. Daw
son, the distinguished Canadian geologist,
who first saw its glistening cone in 1885
from White Man pass. (The name
Assiniboine in Indian signifies "stone
boiler" from the practice of the tribe of
cooking by means of hot stones dropped
into a vessel of water.) But it is less
the actual altitude than the difficulty of
ascent which has given it its reputation.
Its similar figuration, the prevalence of
sudden storms and the numerous defeats
of those who sought to climb it have caused
it to be known as the "Canadian Matter-
horn" though it has no such black list
of fatalities to its credit as the Swiss peak.
It is believed that it was first visited
by white men in 1893. Two years later
a party including Walter D. Wilcox, the
American author, and other distinguished
climbers, led by Bill Peyto, a well known
Banff guide, made a circuit about the
peak and decided that it could not be
climbed. In the three years from 1899 to 1901, several parties accom
panied by Swiss guides made the attempt only to be defeated. At
last on September 3, 1901, Rev., now Sir James Outram, Bart., an
enthusiastic English climber, accompanied by two Swiss guides, made
the top after six hours and twenty minutes very hard work. In his
delightful book, "/« the Heart of the Canadian Rockies," Sir James
says: — "One at a time — the other two securely anchored — we
crawled with the utmost caution to the actual highest point,
and peeped over the edge of the huge, overhanging crest, down
the sheer wall to a great, shining glacier 6,000 feet or more below.
The view on all sides was remarkable. Perched high upon
our isolated pinnacle, fully 1,500 feet above the loftiest peak for
many miles around, below us lay, unfolded, range after range of
brown-grey mountains patched with snow and sometimes glacier-
hung, intersected by deep chasms or broader wooded valleys.
A dozen lakes were counted, nestling between the outlying
ridges of our peak, which proudly stands upon the backbone of the
Continent, and supplies the head-waters of three rivers — the
Cross, the Simpson and the Spray.

Mt. Assiniboine

44 Walks, Drives, Climbs and Trails
Far away to the northwest beyond mount Ball and the
Vermilion range, we could descry many an old friend among the
mountains of the railway belt — mount Goodsir and the Otter-
tails, mount Stephen and mount Temple, with the giants of the
Divide, mounts Victoria, Lefroy, Hungabee, and a host of others,
a noble group of striking points and glistening glaciers."
To Simpson Pass. — Another good trip is that to Simpson pass,
along the historic trail followed by Sir George Simpson on his journey
around the world in 1 841 . The route leads in a southwesterly direction
past the Cave and Basin, along the Bow river to Healy creek and along
the creek to the summit of the pass. The altitude of the pass is 6,913
feet, or 2,380 feet higher than Banff. It is a beautiful alpine tableland
famous for its myriads of wild flowers. A souvenir of Sir George
Simpson's famous journey was found here a few years ago by Mr.
James Brewster, of Banff. This was the letters "G.S., 1841," carved
on one of the trees in the vicinity of the pass. The letters were weather
worn but still plainly decipherable and a section of the tree containing
them forms part of Mr. Brewster's interesting collection at Banff.
This trip may be made in three or four days.
To Twin Lakes. — A short trip, which is deservedly popular,
is to the Twin lakes. These beautiful little mountain tarns lie
hidden among the peaks which guard the Continental Divide, in
twin rocky basins carved out by the action of prehistoric glaciers.
The scenery is wild and beautiful and the fishing is all that can be
desired. The trail branches off from the Castle- Vermilion motor road
about one mile past the Castle bridge. The trip to the lakes can be
made in one day from Banff or three days for the round trip allowing
one day for fishing.
The Red Deer Country. — A longer trip which requires from
three weeks to a month is that up the Cascade trail to the Panther and
Red Deer rivers, returning via the Pipestone to Lake Louise. This is
a delightful trip through one of the wildest and least known parts of
the park. An extension may be made to the beautiful Clearwater
lakes at the northern limit of the park.

Anemones

CHAPTER 4
THE LAKE LOUISE DISTRICT
Lake Louise. — From Lake Louise station (5,032 feet) an electric
tram or a good carriage road runs three miles up through the forest
to the lake itself, more than 600 feet above. The road lies between
tall pines, above which you catch glimpses of the noble heads of Temple
and Lefroy, and as you wind about you have a good view of the Bow
valley and the peaks on its farther side. The air is cool and sweet with
balsam and pine; paint-brush and fire weed dot the dark background
with colour; a mad-hearted stream leaping from stone to stone in a
wild rush to the valley adds the music of tumbling waters. Rounding
a corner you catch your first glimpse of Victoria glacier and as you pass
through the portico the full glory of the lake bursts upon you. " I have
travelled," says Sir James Outram in his charming book, "In the
Heart of the Canadian Rockies," "in almost every country under
heaven yet I have never seen so perfect a picture in the vast gallery of
Nature's masterpieces ... As a gem of composition and colouring it is
perhaps unrivalled anywhere. To those who have not seen it words
fail to conjure up the glories of that 'haunted lake among the pine-clad
mountains, forever smiling upward to the skies'."
It is indeed a canvas painted by Nature in one of her grandest
moods. The lake is intense in colour but that colour is never the same
for two minutes in succession. It sweeps the whole gamut of green,
blue, amethyst and violet, undershot by marvellous tones of green and
gold, constantly shifting and altering from moment to moment as if some
magician were mixing his colours in its magic bowl.
The majesty of the picture is gained from the great sweep of the
curve in front — a line that has been added by man — by the sheer wall
of Fairview, the lofty snow-crowned head of Lefroy at the left and the
darkly wooded slopes of St. Piran to the right. Between, rising appa
rently from the verge of the lake, but in reality 4 miles away, is the great
bulk of Victoria with its huge benches of snow, some of them 200 feet

46

The Lake Louise District

deep. The mountain is so placed that for the greater part of the day
it catches the full glory of the sun, neve and glacier standing out in a
dazzling whiteness which is reflected in the blue lake below.
Lawrence Burpee, in his "Among the Canadian Alps," says of lake
Louise; "Year after year you may revisit lake Louise, and wander about
its shores through all kinds of weather; you will never exhaust the

At Lake Louise
Watching the white smoke of avalanches thundering from the glacier over four miles away.
variety of its charms. It changes from day to day, from hour to hour,
from moment to moment. It responds instantly to every subtle change
of cloud, wind or atmosphere; it has one glory of the sunshine and
another of sunset; it offers you one picture under the brilliant noonday
sun, another under heavy clouds, another through driving mists, or rain
or snow; but always incomparably beautiful, and always indescri
bable." Connoisseurs in beauty place lake Louise among the seven most
perfect landscapes in the world, but when such a height of excellence is
reached comparison becomes valueless. The true lover of beauty finds
something to admire in almost every landscape but sometimes nature
does the thing so perfectly and on so grand a scale that even the dullest
have "to pause and look and wonder," feeling dimly that Being inter
fused, "Beauty itself among beautiful things," which lies at the heart
of the world. She has done this at lake Louise. It has that pre
eminent quality which places it forever among the shrines of the earth.

Lake Louise

47

Lake Louise is about a mile and a quarter long and less than half
a mile wide. It was originally called the "Lake of Little Fishes,"
a name given to it by the Indians with a singular lack of imagination.
In 1881 it was named lake
Louise in honour of the
Royal Princess, wife of the
Marquis of Lome, then
Governor General of Can
ada. Among the first visitors
to its shores was Mr. Walter
D. Wilcox, whose book "The
Canadian Rockies" has
done so much to popularize
the district. For several years
a primitive chalet housed
the few guests who visited
it, but as the fame of its
beauty spread the accom
modations were extended,
culminating in the erection
of the present magnificent
Chateau with its 300 rooms.
The lake lies in what is
known as a "hanging" val
ley, the bed, ages ago, of a
glacier which flowed down
into the more deepened
valley of the Bow. The
basin is of great depth,
soundings which have been
taken reaching nearly 250
feet. A thick layer of ancient moraine obstructs the valley's outlet,
through which a little creek cuts its way. The temperature of the
water is extremely cold, reaching only about 20 degrees above freezing
point even in the height of summer. The intense colour of the lake
is said to be due to its depth and to the presence of minute particles
of rock dust carried down from the glacier. In early summer the water
is a clear robin's egg blue, but in August and September it takes on
wonderful tones of mingled green and blue suggesting the wing of a
dragon fly. The character of the enclosing walls also deepens the
colour. The peaks encircling lake Louise from left to right are: Saddle
back (7,893 feet), Fairview (9,000 feet), Lefroy (11,220 feet), Victoria
(11,355 feet), Whyte (9,776 feet). Big Beehive (7,430 feet), Niblock
(9,754 feet), St. Piran (8,681 feet), Little Beehive (7,100 feet).
Boating, tennis, riding and climbing fill in the days at lake Louise.
The days are warm and sunny but even in August the nights are cool
enough to make the log fires burning in the large lounges very grateful.
25489—4

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Lake Louise
"Its waters are distilled from peacock's tails and paved
v^'ith mother-of-pearl and into them rush those wild blues that
are only mixed in the heart of glaciers."

48

The Lake Louise District

About these the guests gather in the evenings comparing experiences
and relating the adventures of the day.
The Lakes in the Clouds. — Rising to the right of the lake is a
quaintly shaped peak appropriately called "The Beehive." Looking
up from the lake one sees a bit of red fluttering from the summit. It
is the flag on the top of the
little tea-house, perched like
an eagle's nest nearly 1 ,500
feet above. A good trail
leads to the summit and for
those who are incapable of
making the climb on foot,
sedate mountain ponies are
waiting to carry even the
most inexperienced safely to
the top. This is a favourite
afternoon's excursion with
delicious tea and cakes
served above the clouds at
the end of it, but to the
Lake Agnes — One of the Lakes in the Clouds more energetic it is recom
mended as one of the finest
spots in the park from which to see the sun rise. On the way Mirror
lake (6,650 feet) and lake Agnes (6,875 feet), called by the Indians
the "Goat's Looking-Glass" from the herds of wild goats which formerly
frequented its shores, are passed. These little lakes are among the
best examples of cirque lakes in the mountains and lie actually "above
the clouds." View from the Little Beehive. — The view from this point is
beyond description. Says Mr. Wilcox: "I have never seen this glorious
ensemble of forests, lakes and snowfields surpassed in an experience
on the summits of more than forty peaks and the middle slopes of as
many more in the Canadian Rockies." Strange as it may seem it is only
from an eminence that one gains a true appreciation of the magnitude
of the mountains and from this height the massive peaks of Fairview
and Lefroy opposite enlarge and spread themselves to titanic proport
ions. Behind rise other giants, huge in outline and crowned with
tremendous caps of eternal snow. Beyond lies the broad U-shaped
floor of the Bow valley visible from mount Hector to Castle station
for over 30 miles, with the river, a mere twisted thread of silver,
embroidering its green. Below, down the shattered cliffs of the
Beehive, is little Mirror lake, and nearly 1 ,000 feet farther down, lake
Louise, a slender sapphire on the floor of the valley, with the Chateau
set like a pretty toy at its end. It is a sight almost overpowering in
its immensity and one which once seen remains enshrined in the
memory forever.

Moraine Lake

49

From Mirror lake a trail of about half a mile also follows round
the face of the Beehive to Lookout point, or one may take another little
trail from lake Agnes to the summit of the Beehive or mount St.
Piran. From Lookout point there is also a trail of about one mile and
a quarter along the mountain side which joins the lower Glacier trail
about the right side of the lake.
Climbs at Lake Louise. — Two good climbs which may be made
at lake Louise without a guide are to the top of mount Fairview and of
Saddle mountain, the two peaks which guard the left side of the lake.
A good trail leads to the summit of each and both afford superb views,
the former of the Bow valley and Bow range, the latter of Paradise
valley, mount Temple and the fine group of peaks converging at the
head of Paradise valley and the valley of the Ten Peaks. ELach of these
requires a good half-day.
For the experienced alpinist there are at least a score of peaks in
the immediate neighbourhood of first-class importance and interest.
Victoria, Lefroy, Hungabee, Temple, Pinnacle, Deltaform are all fine
climbs, representing practically every form of rock, ice and snow work,
and there are many others to choose from. Full particulars as to
routes and distances may be obtained from the Swiss guides who are
stationed at the Chateau during the summer.
Moraine Lake and the Valley of the Ten Peaks. — One of the
most delightful short drives
in the park is that to Moraine
lake, nine miles from lake
Louise. The return trip can
be made by motor in three
hours, though it is worth
devoting a day at least to this
enchanting region. There is
a tiny chalet at the lake where
luncheon or afternoon tea may
be obtained as well as limited
sleeping accommodation. This
is an excellent centre from
which to explore the rich sur
rounding district but as the
list of applicants often ex
ceeds the accommodation, it
is well to make reservations
in advance. Leaving Lake Louise
Chateau the road winds
through the forest on a high
shelf above the Bow valley,
affording fine views of Saddle
and Lefroy mountains to the
25489^i

At Moraine Lake Chalet
"Looking across the wild blue greens of the lake to the Tower
of Babel and the silent majesty of the Ten Peaks"

50 The Lake Louse District
right and the Bow range, mount Hector and the wide Bow valley to
the left. Soon the massive outlines of mount Temple come into view and
a little farther on the trail to Paradise valley is seen branching off to the
right. Skirting the base of Temple the road swings round to the right
and the tremendous semi-circle of the Ten Peaks is seen closing the
head of the valley. A mile or two more brings one to the lake itself.
The combined beauty and majesty of this landscape cannot be put
into words. In front lies the lake, exquisitely tinted in colour, its

The Ten Peaks
"No scene has ever given me an equal impression of inspiring solitude and rugged grandeur."
Sir Jas. Outram.
crystalline waters sometimes so still that they reflect every twig above
its surface, or shattered into a million facets of light by some passing
catspaw of breeze. Across its mingled sapphires and emeralds fall
wide diagonal bands of shadow cast by the encircling peaks, shot
through by the white gleam of reflected glaciers. The right shore is
low with long swamp grass and willows and bright with flowers. The
lower end is obstructed by a thick band of morainal deposit left by the
ancient glacier which once filled the bed of the lake. To the left,
rising abruptly from the water and sweeping round the head of the lake
as far as Paradise valley, is a tremendous semi-circle of rugged peaks
with the Tower of Babel standing as a sort of outpost at their head.
The Ten Peaks are named after the ten numerals of the Stoney lan
guage. From left to right they are: Wa-zi, Nome, Yamni, Tong-sa,
Sapta, Shakpi, Sa-go-ah, Shak-no-rra, Nam-chu-nugh and Wi-chim-na.
Number 8, the highest among the ten ( 1 1 ,225 ft.) , is now known as mount
Deltaform from its resemblance to the Greek letter A- Between 9 and
1 0 is the Wenkchemna pass, the route to Prospector valley, Tokumn
creek and Vermilion river. Projecting down into the valley is the tongue
of Wenkchemna glacier, one of the five principal glaciers of the park.

Paradise Valley

51

The total impression at Moraine lake is one of extreme wildness
and loneliness. With the exception of the little chalet there is no mark
of man. The landscape retains the same primitive and original beauty
which it has worn for 1 0,000 years. Here, through dateless centuries,
the immense forces of nature have waged war against the savage
strength of the peaks but though scarred they are still unconquered.
Tempest and thunderbolt have shattered and splintered their summits
as if by a cyclopean hammer, avalanches have raked wide swaths
through the upstruggling forest, and the glaciers have deeply scarred

their ancient flanks,
but they still lift their
lofty foreheads 6,000
feet from the valley
into the serene light of
heaven, like "a council
of eternal and immov
able chieftains" seated
under the blue teepee
of the sky.
Consolation Val
ley. — Opening out to
the southeast, hanging
above the valley of the
Ten Peaks to the left
of mount Babel, is
Consolation valley, an
other beautiful little
valley which is well
worth a visit. A trail
north of the Tower of
Paradise Valley,

The Giant's Stairway
Paradise Valley

Babel leads to it from
Moraine Chalet. Great
avalanches have
heaped up huge piles
of rocky debris at its
sides but the floor of
the valley is green
and smiling, with an
abundance of alpine
flowers. The glacial
stream which drains
it widens out midway
into twin blue lakes
noted for their fishing.
At the head of the val
ley are the fine glacier
hung peaks, mount
Quadra (10,028 feet),
mount Bident (10,109
feet), and mount Fay

(10,612 feet).
Paradise valley, one of the loveliest valleys in
the park, lies parallel to the valley of the Ten Peaks between mount
Temple and the Saddleback and thus nearer lake Louise. It may be
reached by a trail branching off from the Moraine Lake carriage road, or
by the excellent trail which leads around the east side of lake Louise
over the Saddleback. Another more difficult trail crosses Victoria
glacier and passing between mount Lefroy and a quaintly shaped peak
known as the Mitre, skirts the Horseshoe glacier and so down to the
valley. The valley was discovered in 1894 by a small group of alpinists
who, with Lake Louise Chalet as a base, were doing exploration work
in the surrounding region. Among these was Mr. Walter D. Wilcox,
who gives an interesting account of the incident in his "Canadian
Rockies." After several hours trying experience on the Lefroy glacier,
during which they had endured every kind of hardship and discourage
ment known to the mountaineer, they reached the summit of the pass,
8,500 feet above sea level, and this enchanting landscape was
suddenly revealed. "A most beautiful valley," says Mr. Wilcox, "lay

52 The Lake Louise District
far below us. Throughout a broad expanse of meadows and open
country many streams were to be seen winding, clearly traceable to
their various sources in glaciers, springs and melting snowdrifts . . .
This beautiful scene opened before us so suddenly that for a time the
cliffs echoed to our exclamations of pleasure, while those who had
recently been most depressed in spirit were now most vehement in
expressions of delight." The name Paradise valley seemed the fitting
expression of their feelings and it was so christened at once.
The valley is broad and U-shaped, about six miles long, carpeted
throughout with flowers and scattered groves of spruce and the beautiful
Lyall's larch. On the northwest the lofty sides of mount Saddle and
the black cliffs of mount Sheol, a mile above the valley, rise up like a
citadel wall. On the southeast is the great bulk of mount Temple
with its wonderful, glittering cone. To the south Is Pinnacle mountain,
its summit carved into numerous spires and pinnacles as exquisitely
slender as those found on the roofs of a Gothic cathedral. Sweeping
across the head of the valley at the base of mounts Hungabee and
Yukness, is the great Horseshoe glacier. To the west is the Mitre,
shaped like a bishop's hat. Through the green floor of the valley run
crystal streams, born of the virgin glacier, seemingly "begotten for
music and joy" which unite to form Wastach brook. Halfway down
the valley the stream tumbles in a beautiful cascade over a series of
steps in the underlying strata, forming a natural stairway which is
known as the Giant's Steps. At the base of mount Temple, like a blue
flower dropped from the battlements of heaven, lies little lake Annette,
a sheer mile from the lofty summit above. Myriads of wide-eyed
anemones and purple asters spangle the meadows and add to the beauty
of the picture while a stray chickadee flits among the spruces trilling
his cheerful little song. The whole expression is one of unsullied beauty
and innocence, "like to the valley, that on the finest day of the happiest
springtide of the universe, received the first man."
Victoria Glacier and Abbot Pass. — A good trail skirting the
right side of the lake leads to Victoria glacier. Leaving the trail, a
scramble of about a mile over thick moraine, brings one to the glacier s
snout, a small ice cave from which a little stream drips to the lake.
The glacier itself begins at Abbot pass at the crest of the Divide,
flows due north for a mile between mounts Victoria and Lefroy, then
turns sharply to the northeast and flows two miles to lake Louise valley
between mounts Aberdeen and Whyte. Its greatest width is half a
mile. The height of the enclosing walls gives the expanse of ice and
fallen debris an impression of extreme desolation. Several times an
hour avalanches, which from the Chateau look like white exploding
puffballs but which are in reality masses of ice often as large as apart
ment blocks weighing thousands of tons, break off from the over
hanging cliffs and shatter themselves on the glacier's back. From the
frequency of these avalanches the pass between Victoria and Lefroy
is known as the "Death Trap" though it can be safely traversed during
the early part of the day before thawing begins.

Lake O'Hara 53
Abbot pass (9,800 feet) was named after Philip Stanley Abbot, a dis
tinguished member of the Appalachian Mountain Club, Boston, the victim
of the fatal mountaineering accident on mount Lefroy in 1 896. This is the
gateway to Cataract valley, a region which Sir James Outram declared
"absolutely unapproached in interest, variety and charm on the con
tinent of North America yet within the capacity of the ordinary walker."
To Cataract Valley and Lake O'Hara. — This is one of the most
delightful trips which can be taken from lake Louise. While it can be
done in less time it is well to allow three days so as to permit of a whole

Lake O'Hara
" Apparelled in celestial light.
The glory and the freshness of a dream.''
day at the lake. The trail leads from the Chateau over Victoria
glacier and Abbot pass to tiny lake Oesa, a little tarn which is frozen
over eleven months of the year. From this lake Cataract brook drops
down through an enchanting fairyland tumbling at last in an exquisite
lacy fall into lake O'Hara.
Lake O'Hara. — Although this little lake is only about three
quarters of a mile long and half a mile wide it is one of the most perfect
gems in the Rockies and has been declared by John S. Sargent, the
famous artist, to be superior to lake Louise both in colour and setting.
The waters are of a remarkable blue colour, so intense and yet so
transparent as to suggest nothing but jewels while the curiously shaped
pinnacles of the Wiwaxy peaks and mount Schaeffer form a superb
background. Lake McArthur. — Two miles south of lake O'Hara, between
mounts Biddle and Schaeffer, is lake McArthur, named in honour of
J. J. McArthur, one of the Government surveyors, who has done
wonderful pioneer work in Canadian mountaineering. The desolation
and -bareness of this lake present a marked contrast to the enchanting
scenery of lake O'Hara. It is almost entirely surrounded by bare
rocky walls, down which a white glacier creeps to thrust its icy hand
into the cold blue waters frozen for a great part of the year. There is no
visible outlet but a swirling motion at one place on the surface indicates
the existence of a subterranean channel along which the waters drain.
The return trip can be made either to lake Louise or to Hector
following Cataract brook to Wapta lake.

54

The Lake Louise District

Pipestone Trail.— Lake Louise is the starting point for the north
as the great trench valleys running parallel to the ranges permit of an
almost straight route. There are two main passes, the Bow and Pipestone.
The latter is the highest pass in the park (8,364 feet). It is reached by
way of the Pipestone river and from the summit trails lead down the
Siffleur river to the main Saskatchewan and the Kootenay plains, the
latter in the early days
the meeting place for the
exchange of furs between
the Indian trapper and
Hudson Bay agent. This
trail also gives access to
mount Molar, a peculiar
tooth - shaped mountain
(9,914 feet), to Cataract
peak (9,444 feet) and to
the Clearwater and Fish
lakes, both good fishing
grounds. Both these
passes lie on the northern
limit of the Rocky
Mountains park as does
also the Clearwater river,
which rises a few miles
east of Pipestone pass, and
marks the boundary for
the rest of the distance.
Bow Trail. — A few miles west of Lake Louise station the railway
leaves the main valley of the Bow following one of its tributaries to
within a short distance from the Kickinghorse pass. A trail, however,
follows the main valley to the headwaters of the Bow, Bow lake and
Bow glacier, and it is one of the most interesting in the park. This is
the gateway to the great Freshfield group, including such giants as
mount Bryce (11,686 feet), mount Athabaska (11,900 feet), mount
Saskatchewan (11,500 feet), mount Alberta (12,000 feet), mount
Columbia (1 2,740 feet), as well as to the great Columbia icefield covering
over 200 square miles, and the headwaters of the North Saskatchewan.
It is also the route for big game expeditions to the rich hunting district
in the vicinity of Wilcox pass and the headwaters of the Brazeau.
Hector Lake. — This beautiful lake near the headwaters of the
Bow, a favourite camping ground along the Bow trail, lies at an
altitude of 5,694 feet and has an area of about four square miles. The
waters are of an exquisite blue and the green verdure of its shores and
grand sweep of encircling peaks form a delightful picture.

Mt. Columbia

Photo by Mrs. Warren

Bow Lake 55
Turquoise and Margaret Lakes. — Southwest of Hector lake
and draining into it are two beautiful turquoise gems, lakes Margaret
and Turquoise. They are fed from the Balfour glacier. Lake Margaret
is a beautiful little sheet of water, while Turquoise, in the words of the
Rev. C. L. Noyes, one of the first to scale mount Balfour, is a "joy
forever." Bow Lake — At an altitude of 6,420 feet, and a short distance
from the height of land, lies Bow lake, the source of the Bow river, which
flows down through the park to become the main source of the South
Saskatchewan and so into Hudson bay. The lake is about three miles
long, its glacier green waters gleaming against the lofty cliffs which
bound the Waputik snowfield from which myriads of glacier tongues
project towards the valley. At the head of the lake is the Bow glacier,
broken into innumerable seracs, the ice cold waters descending through
a steep and narrow canyon to the lake.

Virginia Deer

:'iM1.* >

CHAPTER 5
YOHO PARK
At the Great Divide, the summit of the Kickinghorse pass, the
traveller passes from Alberta to British Columbia and from the Rocky
Mountains Park to Yoho Park. The steep descent of the westem
slope was formerly made by the railway in a series of thrilling switch
backs from which, if the traveller had sufficient nerve left to look about
him, he caught glimpses of some of the most dramatic scenery in the
world. The construction of the corkscrew tunnels has deprived the
traveller of some of the former thrills but fortunately most of the
scenery is still visible. The old roadbed, too, still exists and for anyone
who is energetic it is worth while leaving the train at Hector and walk
ing the seven miles down the mountain side to Field. The glimpses
he will get of the blue gorge of the Yoho valley to the right, with the
great icefields at its head, will certainly awaken a desire to explore a
region which is one of the most magnificent in the Rockies.
The little town of Field is the headquarters of Yoho Park. From
it radiate roads and trails to numerous beautiful spots. All of these
are worth a visit but no traveller to the mountains should miss the
Yoho valley. If the visitor has only one day to spend it is possible by
leaving Lake Louise on the early morning train to take the trip up the
valley, returning to Emerald Lake Chalet for the night and going on
by train the next morning. While the tourist who follows this plan
will congratulate himself that he has not missed such a delightful expe
rience he is also sure to regret that he had not several days more at his
disposal to do justice to the many charms of this unique district.
At present the chief accommodation in Yoho Park is the Yoho
camp, near Takakkaw falls, in the Yoho valley, the Emerald Lake
Chalet, a charming little mountain inn capable of accommodating about
forty guests, and the Bungalow camp at Wapta, all maintained by the
Canadian Pacific Railway and each providing excellent accommodation
of its kind.

58

Yoho Park

YOHO VALLEY
"A giant valley
Asleep and vast and still and far away."
"Yoho" — an Indian exclamation of wonder and delight — is the fit
appellation of Yoho valley. "Wonderful " is the inevitable exclamation
which rises to the lips of every traveller who gazes on its grandeur.
Since its discovery in 1897 by Jean Habel, the distinguished German
Alpinist, this valley has elicited from all travellers enthusiastic expres
sions of delight. "I am not afraid," said the late R. E. Vernede, the
well known author, "of exaggerating the beauties of the Yoho. This
valley of enormous trees spiring up from unseen gorges to well nigh
unseen heights; of cataracts that fall in foam a thousand feet; of
massed innumerable glaciers; this valley into which it seems you could
drop all Switzerland and still look down, is not easily overpraised. The
difficulty is to praise it adequately."
Seen from the Kickinghorse pass the Yoho is only a narrow cleft
between deep wooded walls stretching north to the gleaming whiteness
of the Yoho glacier. Who could believe that little strip of blue haze
concealed so many wonders! Yet that narrow opening represents a
valley 14 miles long and more than a mile deep, walled in by almost
perpendicular mountains hung with primeval forest and crowned by
enormous snowfields which creep down from the peaks in slow moving
rivers of ice or fall in tremendous cataracts of spray.
The Burgess Trail. — From
Field there are two ways of reach
ing the valley. We may either
take the carriage road along the
floor of the valley or the "sky-line
trail" up the steep face of mount
Burgess, 7,000 feet above. From
the latter we get a tremendous,
breath-taking panorama, a cha
otic sea of peaks crested with the
white foam of glaciers stretching
away as far as the eye can see.
The deep abyss is below, the
enormous concave of heaven,
immeasurably filled with light,
above and through all this
crumpled immensity we pass like
moving specks, in a universe
suddenly enlarged beyond all
Switchback, Yoho Valley Drive comprehension.

Takakkaw Falls

59

Yoho Valley Drive. — The valley road winds through a series of
pictures which seem trying to surpass each other in beauty and grandeur.
Crossing the bridge from Field the road finds a narrow footing between
the swirling waters of the Kickinghorse and the base of mount Burgess.
Directly ahead are mounts Stephen and Cathedral, towering up against
a sky of cobalt. Their great masses close in upon us as if they would
shut out the very sky. The sheer tremendousness of the scenery would
be overpowering were it not relieved by the great beauty of the
vegetation. The lower

forest-clad slopes ap
pear to be covered
with velvet and along
the roadway grow in
numerable shrubs and
flowers. To the right
roars the Kickinghorse
in a succession of mad
rushes from rock to
rock, at one place
tumbling down in a
series of steps like the
keyboards of an organ.
Turning sharply to the
left we see the "meet
ing of the waters"
where the Yoho joins
the Kickinghorse in
a beautiful cascade.
Each moment the
scenery grows wilder
and more impressive.
We seem to be getting
into the very heart of
nature. Time has left
no impress in these
solitudes. It is only
within a quarter of a

century that they have
echoed to the voice of
man. The silence of
the countless centuries
still hangs over them
like a palpable thing.
We feel like intruders
as if at our coming
unseen presences had
just withdrawn. Six miles from
Field we reach what is
called the "Switch
back," the most thril
ling spot in the drive.
The road zigzags up
the face of the moun
tain in a series of
sharp turns like the
letter Z. The Yoho
tumbles far below.
The cliffs rise sheer
above. The turns re
quire skillful driving
either for motor or
tally-ho but mountain
drivers know their
business and there is
no fear of accident.

Takakkaw Falls, Yoho Valley
"The wild cataract leaps in
 _ _,  _. _ glory."
The Takakkaw Falls.— A few miles farther on a dramatic turn
in the road suddenly reveals the Takakkaw, a shining wonder of a
waterfall apparently poured out from the very heavens like a libation
to the unseen gods of the hills.
Born in the great neve between mount Niles and mount Balfour,
2,500 feet above, the ice-cold torrent twists down a narrow chasm
till it gains the edge of the precipice where it takes an initial leap of
150 feet and there gathering itself together falls in a glorious curtain
of milky green waters and lacy streamers of spray 1,000 feet down the
face of the cliff, to tumble in a final beautiful cascade of 500 feet into
the Yoho river.

60

Yoho Park

Twin Falls, Yoho Valley
"A land of streams, soine like a downward smoke
Slow dropping veils of thinnest lawn did go."

Laughing and Twin Falls.
— When we have drunk our fill
of the beauty of the falls we
turn to the valley behind us
where the white tents of Yoho
camp invite us to linger and
rest. Here a delicious dinner,
which tastes doubly delicious
to appetites sharpened by the
mountain air, awaits us. From
Yoho camp we may take pony
and push on six miles more
up the valley, past two beauti
ful cataracts — Laughing and
Twin falls — to the Yoho glacier.
This is an ice world full of
intense interest to the scientist
or climber with half a dozen
great glaciers and thirty square
miles of snowfields in the im
mediate neighbourhood and we
are loath to leave it behind.
Returning to the camp we may
either take the trail six miles
over the mountains to Emerald
lake or return by way of the road
to Field, a distance which will be
almost three times as long.

EMERALD LAKE AND DRIVE
Snowpfak Avenue. — The seven mile drive from Field to Emerald
lake is worth taking for its own sake. A primeval forest almost impene
trable with its tangle of fallen tree trunks is all about us through which
now and then we catch the gleam of a white peak. About two miles
from Field there is a lovely bit of road known as Snowpeak avenue.
The road lies between two tall lines of pines which stand straight at
either side but do not overarch so that the intense blue of the sky shows
between. At either end of the vista whether going or coming there is
a beautiful snowpeak — Emerald peak on the outward journey and
Goodsir on the return. The restfulness of this road through the scents
and silence of the forest is its chief charm. Other drives may be more
spectacular but few will be remembered with so much pleasure.
A diversion of about two miles may be made either going or
returning so as to include the Natural bridge.
Emerald Lake. — Emerald lake owes its beauty to the peculiar
colour of its waters and the charm of its thickly wooded shores. At
Moraine lake and lake Louise one shore at least is formed of bare and

Emerald Lake 61
rugged rock, but Emerald lake lies in a jade green forest which
completely clothes all its shores. Its waters are of a prevailing emerald
in colour. In their crystalline depths it is said you may count twenty
shades of green at one time but never one of blue. Mount Burgess
lifts its rugged peak like an enormous tower at the right and the great
bulk of mount Wapta rises far above timber line in front but the lower
slopes are green and velvety in the hottest summer, lending the spot

Emerald Lake, Yoho Park
"Green as an emerald in a jade green ring of forest."

an air of sylvan loveliness. Far away to the left you catch a glimpse
of the President glacier and the interesting group of peaks to the west
of the Yoho valley. High among the trees is the charming little chalet
maintained by the Canadian Pacific Railway. The homelike atmos
phere and excellent cuisine — Martha's Maryland chicken and browned
potatoes linger deliciously in the memory — make this little inn a favour
ite resting place in the mountains. One may pass days here absorbing
the silence and beauty of the region, exploring the shores of the lake
in a little boat or fishing the best pools for gamey trout. Trails lead
to mounts Burgess and Wapta, both of which make excellent climbs —
the latter affording a wonderful view of the Yoho valley — or around
the left side of the lake and over the Yoho pass to the Takakkaw falls.
In the neighbouring woods there are numbers of wild flowers including
some of the loveliest orchids in the mountains.

62

Yoho Park

Kickinghorse River and Natural Bridge. — The Kickinghorse
river, though it derives its name from an accident which Dr. James
Hector, the discoverer of the pass,
sustained through a kick from his
horse, aptly deserves the appella
tion. It is a wild broncho of a
river, constantly throwing its rider
in the shape of banks and bridges.
Its tossing mane is yellow with
sediment carried down from the
heights, which accumulates in such
masses that the river is continually
changing its course. About two
and a half miles west of Field it
reaches what is known as the
Natural bridge, a rocky barrier
which projects across the whole
bed of the stream. Brought up
against this sudden check the river
rears its head as if to look about
it and, discovering a narrow open
ing in the barrier, it flings the
whole force of its volume through
the contracted orifice with a great
lashing of waters and upthrown
clouds of spray. It seems probable
that the river once flowed over this
rocky barrier but some few thousand years ago it may have dropped
below its level, finding some natural crack in the strata which it has

The Natural Bridge

Valley of the Kickinghorse, Yoho Park
"Where the quiet coloured end of evening smiles
Miles and miles."

widened into the present opening. A little farther down, the river
enters a narrow canyon where it tears its way through a series of fine
cascades to the Kickinghorse falls.

Field

63

Field. — At Field we may climb mount Stephen (which derives
its name from Lord Mount Stephen, one of the first directors of the
Canadian Pacific Railway, and which bears the reputation of being
the most climbed peak in the Rockies), explore the great fossil bed, 150
feet thick — ossuary of millions of trilobites which once swarmed in a
vanished sea — 2,200 feet up on its north side, or climb up to the summit
of its curious sugar-loaf head. Or we may take the trail to lovely lakes
O'Hara and McArthur and visit lake Oesa and the upper valley of
Cataract brook. Returning to Field the wide valley of the Ottertail
with its glorious views of the Van Home range invites us, or if we are
scientifically minded we may go on to Leanchoil and explore the inte
resting region of the Ice River valley, the only igneous outcrop in the
park, where the blue sodalite, somewhat resembling lapsis lazuli, is
found. This is a beautiful but little known section guarded by three
fine peaks, mount Vaux (10,881 feet). Chancellor peak (10,75! feet) and
mount Goodsir (1 1,676 feet), the last-named the highest peak in Yoho
park.

Lynx

25489—5

Marmot
CHAPTER 6
GLACIER PARK AND THE SELKIRKS
Crossing the great Rocky Mountain trench occupied by the
Columbia river, the visitor begins the ascent of the Selkirks and a few
miles west of Griffith station enters Glacier park, a reserve of 486
square miles.
"The Selkirk Mountains", says Elizabeth Parker, in the delightful
Guide to the Selkirk Mountains, "have their own lovers to whom no
snows are so white as the Selkirk snows and no clouds so radiant, no
forests so darkly beautifully green. There the cedar, hemlock, fir,
and spruce, grow together in the rich valleys, climbing in serried ranks
to meet the blue ice, softening every sharp outline to a gentle undula
tion. There hang myriads of glaciers festooning the high mountain
walls, and there the curved mounds and cornices of driven snow beau
tify the harsh mountain faces. And, there, if the pilgrim only travels
far enough, whole summits are white against the blue sky, gray rock
scarcely showing above the green forest. For, from the railway and
the hotel, you see but a strip of the Selkirks. It is the place to absorb
the phenomena of alpine beauty in forest and snow ; the place to study
the phenomena of alpine structures and alpine vegetation. Nor is that
rainbow-edged phenomenon, the 'Spectre of the Brocken,' wanting."
Every tourist who can afford the time should plan for a week at
least at Glacier House. He will find ample things to fill each day and
at the end of it he will probably feel that it has been one of the most
memorable weeks of his life.
Glacier House. — Glacier House holds a unique place in the
memory of those who visit it. While not so luxurious as the hotels at
Banff or Lake Louise, its homelike, hospitable atmosphere and excellent
service make it a delightful resting place. In the green valley of the
Illecillewaet, which derives its musical name from the Indian word
meaning "swift water," it has a magnificent setting of forest and peak.
The great grey head of Sir Donald (10,808 feet) rises to the east, with
25489—5*

66

Glacier Park and the Selkirks

Eagle and Uto peaks to the north. Close at hand is a beautiful cascade
1,200 feet high which tumbles from small glaciers below mount Ava
lanche. "Throughout the stillness of the summer night," says Mr. A.
0. Wheeler, " music fills the glen.
'A cataract blowing its trumpet
from the steep' perfectly illustrat
ing Wordsworth's familiar line.
Once a lady tourist of uncertain
age and temper, complaining
querulously to the manager of
the hotel, that the fountain in
the grounds disturbed her sleep
and must be turned off, he
assured her that it was always
turned off at night. 'I shall try
to-night,' he added sympatheti
cally, 'to turn off the Cascade, the
real disturber of your dreams'."
About 200 yards from Glacier
House is what is known as the
"meeting of the waters,"where the
tempestuous Illecillewaet river
and Asulkan brook rush together
in a turbulent embrace which
scatters clouds of crystal spray.
The Illecillewaet Glacier. — But the chief centre of interest
at Glacier House is the glacier itself and one of the best places from which
to view it is from the hotel balconies. Less than two miles away, it
seems much nearer, its gleaming whiteness framed in the dark fir forest
against a sky of deepest azure, forming a picture so lovely that the eye
is caught and held by it continually as if it were some magnificent drop
scene in a theatre.
The glacier falls from the great Illecillewaet snowfield, 10 square
miles in area, which lies along the eastern escarpment of the Selkirks
and which also feeds the Geikie glacier to the southwest. From the
crest of the snowfield to the base of the Illecillewaet glacier there is a
drop of 3,600 feet. Markings with red paint on the adjacent walls
show the rate at which the glacier is receding. The average total
precipitation at Glacier House is 56-68 inches, of which 77 per cent,
or about 36 feet, falls as snow. As much as 50 feet of snow has been
known to fall in a single year, adding annually enormous masses to the
snowfield and yet the glacier is melting more rapidly than it grows.
Records which have been kept since 1887 show that it is retreating
about 33-2 feet per annum. One of the good points from which to
view the glacier is Cascade Summer House, directly above the falls.
The trail to this point through the forest and thence to Avalanche basin
makes a delightful morning's excursion which can be taken either on
foot or pony back.

The Illecillewaet Glacier

The Asulkan Valley

67

Overlook on Mount Abbott. — Another interesting trip is to the
Overlook on mount Abbott (7,950 feet). From this vantage point we
can look down on the enormous tongue of the ice monster, with its
deep furrows and cracks and 
fissures and its tumbled mass of ¦iWP«.rf> J,'1S 1C'f>>?5f«?3r'
moraine. On the way we pass
Marion lake, a sombre little
mountain tarn called after his
daughter by Mr. W. Spotswood
Green, a pioneer explorer, whose
book "Among the Selkirk
Glaciers" is one of the most
interesting on this region. The
climb to the summit is somewhat
arduous but the visitor is well
repaid for the exertion by the
remarkable bird's-eye view it
affords. The Asulkan Valley. —
"The chief gem of the district,"
says Sir James Outram, "is the
Asulkan valley, named after the
mountain goats which used to
haunt its solitudes, a truly ex
quisite spot richly wooded, with
fine waterfalls and sparkling
streams and a grand entour
age of glacier and peak." A trail branches off from the main trail to
the glacier about a quarter of a mile from the hotel and winds for about
four miles through the gloom of an almost tropical forest. " Frequently
through the openings in the trees the sable walls of mount Abbott, the
Rampart, the Dome and the snowy heights of Castor and Pollux come
into view overhanging the valley on the west, their snows showing
white against the azure sky, in clear and cloudless sunshine. These
snows are the fountain-head of a series of cataracts in sight at intervals,
that fall in silvery spray down the mountain side and over the high
precipitous ledges to the streams below. In one place seven may be
counted, variously named — ' Asulkan falls,' ' Seven falls,' ' Menotah
falls.' It is an enchanted valley. ' The cataracts blow their trumpets
from the steep,' and the sunlight is the light of no common day.
The gloom and the glory of mountain beauty meet in the valley. This
feeling is intensified by the continuous sound of rushing waters, now
faint when the path enters the woods, now filling the air as the torrent
sweeps by at your feet."
Numbers of hoary marmots or Whistlers are found at the head of
the valley and the curious phenomenon known as "red snow," a form of
algae (protococcus nivalis), is frequently to be seen on the glacier.

Road to Nakium Caves

68

Glacier Park and the Selkirks

Nakimu Caves. — From Glacier House a good carriage road leads
to the Nakimu caves, seven miles distant in the Cougar valley. The
word Nakimu is Indian for "spirit's noises" and the spirits indeed
seem to have some special con
nection with this valley. Mount
Cheops, called after the Great
Pyramid, tomb of the illustri
ous Pharaoh, would seem to be in
the secrets of the "Above Per
sons," the spirits who make the
rain. A cloud above its head is
a sure indication of a shower
and woe to the person who dis
regards the warning for he is
certain to meet a drenching.
Half-way down the valley.
Cougar brook, which has come
cascading gaily through flowery
uplands, is suddenly snatched
down into the bowels of the
mountains. About 450 feet
farther it reappears, flows for a
little in the light of day, only
to disappear again into the
subterranean darkness. Three
times in the course of a mile is it caught down in this way and
finally the waters disappear forever by an underground channel.
Wierd, rumbling noises and the sound of rushing waters can be
heard from its underground passageways. It is no wonder that
the Indians thought them the abode of the "Under Water Persons"
perhaps even of "Ground Man" who typified the power of the
earth. The caves are a series of chambers formed partly by seismic
disturbance and partly by the action of the water, connected at various
levels by narrow passageways along which the stream rushes in almost
total darkness. The names of the chambers give an indication of their
character, — Witches' Ballroom, the Auditorium, the White Grotto, the
Marbleway, the Judgment Hall, the Bridal Chamber and many others.
A traverse of the caves is a thrilling experience but those who do not
care to attempt the whole journey will find that a descent into the
first series will give them a very good idea of the formation of this
curious phenomenon of nature.
Rogers and Baloo Passes. — A delightful day's excursion by
pony is to take the trail over Rogers pass, through the woods of Bear
Creek valley, over the wind blown summit of Baloo pass, returning
via Cougar valley and the caves. For varied and beautiful scenery this
trip can scarcely be surpassed.

Seracs, Illecillewaet Glacier

Climbs

69

Climbing in Glacier Park. — Glacier House is a favourite centre
for alpine climbing and Swiss guides are stationed there throughout
the season. Rogers peak (10,536 feet) is a good climb for
beginners, as also is mount Sir Donald, called after the late Lord
Strathcona. Mr. A. 0. Wheeler writes of the view from the latter:
"From its height and isolated position, the peak of Sir Donald com
mands extensive and superb views in every direction. Indeed to
ascend Sir Donald is only to 'taste blood' so many glaciers and snowy
ranges of the Selkirks are spread out before the climber." Many of
the peaks in these ranges have not been climbed and whole regions are
still waiting for the explorer.

^«,f

• Lilif

A Ski-jumper
CHAPTER 7
MOUNT REVELSTOKE PARK
The greeting of Mount Revelstoke Park may well be "the top of
the world to you." It is a mountain-top park, wholly situated above
the clouds, probably the highest national park in the world. It covers
an area of about ! 00 square miles on the wide plateau which forms the
summit of mount Revelstoke and, on account of its altitude, has an
individuality all its own. The general character of the landscape is
that of many high passes — a wide park-like plateau, gently rolling,
covered with green herbage and scattered groves of balsam and fir.
Everywhere, growing in such profusion that you may wade through
them to the knees, are millions and millions of wild flowers — violets,
daisies, lilies, marigolds, lupins and the red mountain heather — veri
table gardens of flowers spangling the meadows with colour, blue and
white and gold and rose. Near the summit there is a large cleft in the
rock !00 feet long and 20 feet wide which has been called the " Ice-box,"
because even in the height of summer it holds almost 20 feet of snow.
Across a small valley towards the Clach-na-Coodin range are three
charming little lakes of translucent emerald — Eva, Ella and Millar.
The park abounds in fish and game. The wild grouse start up at the
sound of your coming, caribou hob-nob with your grazing pony and if
you are very quiet you are more than likely to catch a glimpse of a
black bear hobbling off through the trees.
A Winter Sports Resort. — Mount Revelstoke Park is widely
known for its winter sports. It has one of the finest ski-jumps in
America, considered by experts to equal the famous Blumendal hill
in Norway. The Canadian amateur record is held by a Revel
stoke man, who this year surpassed his own former record jump of

72 Mount Revelstoke Park
185 feet by making a standing jump of 204 feet on this hill. Several
jumps of over 200 feet were made by professionals, one contestant making
a jump of 227 feet, which is the record for the world for 1921. A
unique feature is that owing to the altitude these sports can be carried
on late into the season. A few years ago the ski competitions were
held on the 24th of May.

Lake Eva, Mt. Revelstoke Park
"Coloured like thick opals and moonstones, the tall slim firs growing at the bottom as if they were
real trees."
The Mount Revelstoke Motor Road. — Mount Revelstoke
Park is only waiting for the completion of the motor road which is now
within two miles of the summit. Already it is the most thrilling drive
in the mountains. It might well be called the Royal Drive, for
every Royal party which has toured Canada since the inception of the
road has asked that this drive should be included in the itinerary.
Mementoes of these visits are retained in two milestones and a stone
tablet, each of them marking the spot to which the road was completed
at the date of the Royal visit. The first post was erected by His Royal
Highness, Prince Arthur of Connaught, the second by his father,
H.R.H. the Duke of Connaught, then Governor General of Canada,
the third, a tablet dedicating the park to the public, was unveiled by
His Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales in September, 1919, in the
course of his western tour.
Drive Up Mount Revelstoke. — Arriving at Revelstoke by the
afternoon train you find that the drive can be taken by motor in three
hours allowing ample time to be back to the hotel for dinner. Leaving
the little town behind you, you start to climb up the slopes of beautiful
mount Revelstoke. The road ascends by an easy grade — seven per cent
is the average — through virgin forest thick with underbrush or along
the verge of a rocky ledge dropping sheer away below. Each moment
the view grows more impressive. Below lies the valley, flat as a floor,
with the Illecillewaet coming in from the left, the Columbia from the
right and the little town set between. To the west can be seen the
narrow cleft in the range. Eagle pass, through which the railway
crosses to the Gold range. The glorious old snow bonnet of mount
Begbie (8,946 feet) — the monarch of the range — stands out prominently

Drive up Mount Revelstoke 73
in front. To the southeast is the snow capped line of the Selkirks,
shining in the afternoon light. The road is now (1921) within a little
over two miles from the summit and the panorama which its present
termination affords is worth coming many miles to see. We are
tempted to linger here gazing at the little mountain town far below us,
encircled by its gleaming ribbons of silver and set about by a circle of
mighty peaks, but the level light reminds us that it is time to leave.
As we turn downwards the September sun is just sinking behind
the Gold range. A magnificent shaft of light strikes through the
narrow gorge of Eagle pass, falling like a searchlight across the valley.
Summit lake at the top of the pass shines like silver. A film of blue
haze, like a veil of chiffon or the gauzy drop screen of a theatre, is
drawn across the lower slopes. One after another the peaks light up,
their cold immensities transformed as if at the touch of an unseen
wand into airiest rose. Regal old Begbie is crowned with gold and
hung with royal purples. Overhead float diaphanous cloud shapes
like rosy foam blown from the tops of the peaks. For a few minutes the
transfiguration holds while
"Royal the pageant closes
Lit by the last of the sun,
Opal and ashes of roses.
Cinnamon, umber and dun."
Then the light fades. The peaks die out, one by one. The show is
over. Night draws the darkness across the amphitheatre of the valley.
The great mountains — the leading actors — withdraw themselves even
from our admiration into the upper solitudes to hold converse with
their true compeers — the stars. It is time to go home. We turn down
to the valley with an infinite regret. To-morrow we must go back
to the work-a-day life of the cities. It is hard to say goodbye to the
serenity and peace of this beautiful mountain world. A squirrel
scampers across our path with some food which he has gathered for his
winter store. Well, we have been busy too. Like him we have laid
up a rich harvest for the long winter months — a harvest of health, of
new inspiration, fresh vision and unforgettable memories.

Squirrel

Young Robin
APPENDIX !
VEGETATION AND WILD LIFE OF THE PARKS
TREES
"We grow on mountains where the glaciers cry,
Infinite sombre armies of us stand
Below the snow peaks which defy the sky.
We know no man, our life is to stand stanch.
Singing our song against the avalanche."
Forests of the Rockies. — The forests of the Rockies form one
of the most beautiful features of the landscape. For the most part
they are coniferous and their myriad tall, straight trunks and pointing
spires harmonize perfectly with the towering peaks. The prevailing
tree is the Lodgepole pine, an instance of the survival of the fittest, as
its hard cones and long-lived seeds enable it to persist in the face of
very adverse conditions. The most enduring species climb to about
6,500 to 7,000 feet on the east slope and slightly lower on the west.
Along the river flats near Banff are seen Balm of Gileads and the
graceful coppery boles of the mountain birch.
The white spruce (Picea canadensis) has three habitats of varying
altitude. "In the Bow valley, westward of Banff, it occupies marshy
flats associated with willows and sedges. Between 4,500 and 7,000 feet
it covers rocky slopes almost bare of soil and clothes the steep sides of
the smaller lateral valleys opening out of the Bow valley into the Saw
back range and often occurs as a narrow band above the pine forest."
It is abundant, too, on the floors of deep valleys, such as Healy creek
and mount Edith trail.
The Englemann spruce is found as a forest only near timber line.
Its heavier outline and yellowish bronze foliage distinguish it even at
a distance from the darker green of the white spruce. In July or early
August its reddish-purple cones are an exquisite sight.

76 Vegetation and Wild Life
The balsam fir and the Alpine or Lyall's larch grow only in the
higher altitudes, at the last outpost of tree growth. The latter is one
of the most beautiful of trees. Like the eastern tamarack which it
resembles, its foliage is deciduous, turning in late September to a bright
lemon yellow which, contrasted with the green of the pines and the red
of the smaller shrubs, makes the forest in autumn from the valleys look
like a brilliant afghan thrown over the peaks. Specimens of this
beautiful tree may be found along the shores of lake Louise and at the
summit of Simpson pass. Scattered individuals of the Douglas fir are
found throughout Rocky Mountains Park. A fine specimen may be
seen in the grounds of the Administration Building.
It is impossible to look at these mountain forests without a certain
feeling of sympathy. They show such hardihood and courage. From
the valleys the pines seem like battalions charging up the slopes. They
climb up the rocky walls to the heights like armies storming a citadel,
clinging desperately to the tiniest foothold, taking advantage of every
crack and crevice to get a firmer grip for their roots. And what a
constant battle is their existence in these upper solitudes! As they
creep higher the cold and winds grow more desperate until they cannot
even stand upright but crouch tormented, twisted and tortured but
yet unconquered. And always they are threatened by the menace of
fire. While this may be caused by lightning, as a rule man is their
most dangerous enemy. A half-burnt cigar, a careless match, the
coals of a smouldering camp fire, may destroy miles of the green beauty
which it has taken so many years to create, leaving only the desolation
of blackened rampikes and sometimes destroying even the humus, so
that for years no tree will grow.
The Selkirk Forests. — The vegetation of the Selkirks is more
luxuriant than that of the Rockies and possesses many species not
found in the more easterly range. Among the trees are the Giant
cedar which often grows to ten feet in diameter; the cottonwood; and
two species of hemlock, Tsuga Mertensiana and Tsuga palloniana, the
latter more graceful with larger cones. The Douglas fir, which grows
from 1 00 to 300 feet high in these mountains, is also found in great
abundance. In the valleys and on the lower slopes the shrubbery and under
growth is almost tropical in its rankness. Among the shrubs the
traveller soon makes the ur pleasant acquaintance of one in particular,
the Devil's club, "the lion in the way of every man who would blaze
a trail through the Selkirk valleys." It grows in the form of a tall
cane with wide spreading leaves and a bunch of bright berries at the
top. The stalk is covered with villainous looking thorns which break
off in the flesh and cause painful festers and the shrubs grow so closely
together that it is practically impossible to force a way through
without an axe.

Flowers

77

White Heath
"Lone flowers hemmed in with snows and white as they."

FLOWERS
"A garland will I weave of mountain flowers
Pink alpine clover, pale anemones
And saxifrages fed by flying showers."
— John Addington Symonds.
To the lover of nature the wild flowers of the parks will be a cons
tant source of delight. Strange as it may seem the flora of the higher
altitudes is among the.
most beautiful in the
world. Over 500 vari
eties have been identified
in the Rockies, and their
colour, fragrance and
delicate loveliness add
the last touch of eai-
chantment to the region.
While they grow in rich
profusion in the valleys
and on the lower slopes,
it is on the alpine mea
dows above timber line
where even the stubborn
little pines and spruces
have been beaten back by the cold, that they are to be found at their
finest. High tablelands like Simpson pass (7,200 feet) in July are
veritable seas of colour, waves of blue
and rose and white and yellow and vivid
green breaking against the stern grey of
the rocks. Higher still at the verge of
perpetual snow, the "dauntless flag of the
flowers" will still be found waving,
crowding their whole life-cycle into a
brief season of perhaps six weeks. In
the Bow valley spring comes about the
end of April and a few days later the
frail anemone is pushing its head through
the melting snow. Soon there are flowers
blowing everywhere in the lower valleys
and as the snow retreats the gay floral
procession follows, coming so close upon
its heels that you may sometimes stand
with one foot upon the snow, the other
touching living flowers. "On the lower
levels," says Mrs. Henshaw, in her
delightful Wild fiowers of the North
American Mountains, "white-flowered,
P""i"l^ scarlet-fruited shrubs mingle with the
"These little dream flowers found Wlntcrgreens, Larkspurs, Violets and
in spring. k3 • *

78 Vegetation and Wild Life
Columbines; flaming Indian Paint-brushes, Gentians, Queencups and
Purple Vetches cover many a slope; here a valley is covered with
yellow Lilies, Gaillardias, Arnicas and Goldenrods^ — a glorious Field-
of-the-Cloth-of-Gold — and there some mossy plateau is gay with
arctic-alpine Androsaces, Stonecups, Everlastings and the trailing
vines of the sweet-scented Northern Twin flowers. On the high
passes above timber line grow the White Heath and the red Moun
tain Heather, the latter first cousin of its famous Scotch namesake,
covering the slopes with its "rose red robe." Higher still grow the
Saxifrages, the White Dryas, the frail Everlastings, "pearly, pink tipped
and pale." MOUNTAIN LAKES
"A lake is the landscape's most beautiful and expressive feature.
It is earth's eye looking into which the beholder measures the
depth of his own nature." — Thoreau.
One of the delights of the Rockies is the great number of exquisitely
tinted lakes. They are of many sizes, ranging from a few yards to
several miles in length, but from the tiniest tarn to a sheet of water
like lake Minnewanka, they are distinguished by a brilliance and purity
of colour which is truly gemlike. Sometimes, like lake Agnes, they will
lie high up in a bare little rocky pocket chiselled out by a hanging
glacier. Oftener, especially in the lower and older valleys, they will
be fringed with the slim spires of spruces or firs which are reflected in
their crystalline depths. A hanging valley, the outlet of which has been
obstructed by a moraine, nearly always contains one or more beautiful
little lakes, and they are also found on many of the high passes.
The wonderful colour of the water always arouses interest and the
question naturally arises what is its cause. This is generally conceded
to be due to the presence of glacial deposit. Dr. A. P. Coleman

Mirror Lake
"Blue. blue, as if the sky let fall, a flower from its cerulean wall."
Professor of Geology, University of Toronto, says: "It seems strange
to trace the brilliant colours of mountain waters to the effect of glacial
mud, yet the cause of the usual intense blue is probably to be found

Wild Life 79
in particles of mud so fine that they remain suspended in the water
after the heavier sediments have fallen. If these particles are very
minute, they reflect only the shorter, that is the blue rays of light; if
a little larger the green waves are reflected also. With these colours,
due to the finest mud particles, there are sometimes mingled in shallow
water the yellow of sand beds or the richer green of aquatic plants,
giving a considerable range of beautiful tints. Some tarns surrounded
by muskegs have quite a different set of colours, however, ranging from
dark brown to yellowish tones according to the amount of dissolved
peaty matter. They suggest amber or ziroon, while the other lakes,
which are much more common, suggest turquoise, aquamarine or
emerald; all gems of rich colour in splendid setting."
Fishing. — Many of these mountain lakes are teeming with fish,
including the Cutthroat, the gamiest trout of the mountains, and the
Dolly Varden or Bull trout, which run to twelve pounds in weight. Lake
Minnewanka is the only lake containing the Lake trout, a fish which
runs as high as forty pounds. All the best fishing lakes are being
constantly restocked from the Government hatchery at Banff, so that
the fishing is growing better every year. One or two varieties not
native to the park waters have also been introduced, including the
Salmon trout which can now be found in lake Minnewanka.
WILD LIFE
"The wild wood things unheeding us."
One of the greatest attractions of the parks, rivalling even the
scenery, is the large numbers of wild life. This entire area is a game
sanctuary. Within its borders no trap may be set, no gun fired. It
is a paradise for wild life, guarded on all sides not by flaming swords,
but by the eternal vigilance of an administration which loves and is
determined to protect the wild life heritage of this beautiful domain.
The response which their efforts have met with bears out the truth of
Dr. Hornaday's words that "it is men, not the animals, who are wild.'
The value of sanctuaries has perhaps nowhere been better established
that in the Canadian National parks. Within two years of the enforce
ment' of an adequate protection the wild life began to come back.
Bighorn or Rocky Mountain sheep, the Mountain goat. Black bear,
moose, elk and Blacktail or Mule deer may now be seen in large
numbers and rapidly losing all fear of man.
It is noticeable that the animals follow the roads and trails into
the park, and, since the construction of the new motor road into the
Kootenay district, large numbers of game have come in from British
Columbia. From Exshaw to the Gap is a sheep country; elk and deer
are found from the Gap to Banff and deer, sheep, goat, moose and elk
in the country west of Banff. During July and August many of the
larger animals keep fairly high up on the slopes to avoid the flies,
but with the first touch of autumn, with the exception of the goat and
25489—6

80

Vegetation and Wild Life

grizzly, they begin to drift back to the lower valleys and they may then
be seen in large numbers. During the winter deer wander all through
the streets of Banff, poking their noses about the back doors of the
residents, looking for scraps of food or that irresistible deer delicacy —
potato peelings. It is a common but always pretty sight to see them
feeding from the hands of children. Even in the summer a tourist
who rises early may see a deer below his window or he may come upon
one in any solitary walk about Banff. If he goes out a few miles along

Bighorn sheep along the Motor Highway
the motor road west he is sure to see some Bighorn sheep (Ovis cana
densis) and if he is lucky he may even see 200. "The Bighorn or Rocky
Mountain sheep," says Harlan I. Smith, Archaeologist of the Geological
Survey, Ottawa, "is the chamois of the American west, a fine strong,
sturdy, active, bold mountaineer with a keen eye." His long curved
horns have made him a coveted prize of the big game hunter, but he
furnishes almost as great a trophy for the camera and he has become so
tame about Banff that it is possible to secure a picture of him even
from a motor car.
The Mountain goat (Oreamnos montanus) live on the higher
summits usually above timber line. "They look," says Mr. Smith,
"slow and clumsy, have a rheumatic gallop and their motions remind
one of a bear, but while curious and somewhat stupid, they are the most
skilful and brave alpine climbers of all the hoofed animals of the
Americas." Whether it is a sign of superior intelligence or otherwise,
they are apparently dominated by feminine influence and you will
usually see them travelling along the shaly upper slopes or across a
dizzy ledge on the verge of a thousand foot precipice in the wake of a
"sagacious old nanny." A band of these goats can frequently be seen
feeding on the slopes of mount Rundle at Banff.

Animals and Birds 81
Another animal, of which the visitor who goes out along the trails
is sure to make the acquaintance, is the Hoary marmot (Arctomys
columbianus). His shrill call, "like an intermittent steam whistle,"
is very startling in the mountain silences and has given him the name
of "Whistler." Sometimes, too, you may catch a glimpse of a black
bear rambling off through the forest and five or six of these may usually
be seen in the evening about the garbage grounds at Banff. The

Rocky Mountain Goat
"Wild goats sporting round the eagle's nest."
fretful porcupine is a frequent night visitor to camps, where he is apt
to carry off any stray bacon or leather articles he can find. Smaller
animals include the Parry's or Lesser marmot, the marten, muskrat,
beaver, the pika or little Chief hare — known as the Haymaker from
his habit of piling up grass — the squirrels who live among loose rocks
at the bottom of the slopes and higher up chipmunks. The Grizzly
(Ursus horribilis) is seldom seen in the Rockies but he is a more common
denizen of the Selkirks. BIRD LIFE
It is a popular saying that '"there are no birds in the mountains"
but the fallacy will be speedily disproved by anyone who knows how
to use both eyes and ears. The bird life of the parks numbers many
species though one needs to be a careful observer, it is true, to find
birds in the heavy evergreens. Many species, however, such as the
grouse, are more readily seen because they are never disturbed and so
have lost their fear of man. In fact there is one bird which practically
every visitor who goes out along the roads or trails is sure to see and
that is the Franklin's grouse, generally called the ''Fool-hen'' on
25489-61

82

Vegetation and Wild Life

Fool-hen

account of his lack of intelligence. He seems to have no sense what
ever of danger and will fly down in the most stupid way right in front
of your motor car or under your pony's feet. Another bird character
istic of the mountains though
not peculiar to them is the
Whiskey-jack, or Canada jay, a
large grey bird about 1 1 inches
in length whose Indian name
'' Wisagatchak" has been cor
rupted into "Whiskey-jack."
Two or three of these birds will
sometimes fly along beside you
as you drive through the woods,
inspecting you from every angle
and apparently as much inter
ested in newcomers as any village
gossip. Whether it is another
instance of giving a bird a bad
name or not, the Whiskey-jack
is an inveterate thief, so bold that
he will even steal pieces of bacon
hot out of the pan. The Richardson's grouse, White-tailed ptarmigan,
several species of sandpipers, a rare Golden eagle, the ever-cheerful
chickadee and the Mountain bluebird, which closely resembles our
beautiful Eastern bluebird except that the red in the latter's dress is
replaced by blue, are also Hkely to be seen.
The Continental Divide
forms the dividing line between
the eastern and the western
species but some adventurous
western species have crossed the
height of land and will be found
on the eastern side especially
as you approach the divide.
Then, too, it must be remem
bered that different species
will be found at different
levels and when you have tired
of the birds of the valleys it
is only necessary to climb to
a higher altitude to make a
whole new group of bird friends.
Sometimes these mountain birds
drift down to the lower levels
and in the autumn it is a common sight around Banff to see true
birds of the heights like the Leucosticte drifting down in flocks from
their summit homes to escape the first snowstorms.

Whiskey-jack

Big Game 83
BIG GAME
While no hunting may be done in the parks the areas adjacent
to their boundaries are among the best big game districts on the con
tinent. They can be reached usually by a two or three days' trail
trip. Banff is the principal outfitting centre for expeditions of this
kind and there are several firms which supply guides, ponies and all
the necessary camp equipment. The Bighorn, or Rocky Mountain
sheep, the Rocky Mountain goat and the Grizzly are the most prized
trophies.

Jm-

Royal Canadian Mounted Police
APPENDIX 2
TRAIL TRIPS
TRAIL TRIPS RADIATING FROM BANFF
1. Banff to Spray Lakes — Starting from Banff in a southeasterly
direction trail follows the Spray river, branching at fork of the
river to the foot of lower Spray lake, the left branch proceeding
through Whiteman's pass between Goat range and Three Sisters
to upper and lower Spray lakes, joining main trail at the foot
of latter lake. Approximately 30 miles.
Extension Trips
(a) Kananaskis Lakes — From the foot of Spray lakes up the pas
between the Kananaskis and Spray ranges to the Summit
thence down the north fork of the Kananaskis river to
Kananaskis lakes. Approximately 23 miles.
(b) Bryant Creek — From the fopt of Spray lakes up Bryant creek
to the foot of mount Assiniboine. Approximately 1 8 miles.
(c) Brewster-Bryant— From the foot of mount Assiniboine,
down Brewster creek to Healy creek. Approximately \9\
miles.
2. Banff to Mount Assiniboine — From Banff in a westerly direction
past the Cave and Basin and Sundance creek to junction with
Brewster-Bryant trail; up Brewster creek to Bryant creek, to foot
of mount Assiniboine. Approximately 30 miles.
Extension Trips
Sundance Creek— From mouth of Sundance creek and up creek
to Sundance pass. Approximately 1 mile.

86 Trail Trips
3. Banff to Simpson Pass —From Banff in a southwesterly direction
past the Cave and Basin, along Bow river to Healy creek and
following Healy creek up to the summit of Simpson pass.
Approximately 19 miles. Extension Trips
(a) Mount Assiniboine — From summit of Simpson pass south
along Simpson river and the south fork of latter to the foot
of mount Assiniboine. Approximately 1 8 miles.
(b) Redearth Creek— From the mouth of Healy creek, following
the Bow river to the mouth of Redearth creek, thence up the
creek, following the east fork to rejoin Simpson trail at
Simpson pass summit. Approximately 23 miles.
4. Sawback — From Banff via the Banff-Castle motor road to mount
Edith and north up Fortymile creek to Sawback lake, over the
summit and down Sawback creek to its junction with the
Cascade river. Approximately 25 miles.
5. Cascade River — From Banff along motor road to Minnewanka,
and following the Cascade river northwest to join the Sawback
trail at the mouth of Sawback creek. Approximately 32 miles.
Extension Trips
(a) South Panther — From the Cascade river trail at the mouth
of Stoney creek, following up the creek to the head of the
South Panther river. Approximately 1 1 miles.
(b) Cuthead — From Cascade river trail near the mouth of Cuthead
creek, proceeding north over the summit and down Wigmore
creek to the Panther river. Approximately 8 miles.
6. Ghost River — From Banff, following motor road to lake Minne
wanka and along the lake through Devil's gap to the Ghost
river. Approximately 26 miles.
7. Carrot Creek— From Banff via the Calgary-Banff motor road
east to Carrot creek and thence up Carrot creek to join the
Ghost river trail at the east end of lake Minnewanka. Approxi
mately 22 miles.
8. Johnston Creek — From Banff via Banff-Castle motor road to
Johnston creek and up the creek to the canyon and falls.
Approximately 17 miles.
9. Cascade Mountain — From Banff along motor road to Vermilion
lakes and up the west face of Cascade mountain. Approximately
seven miles.

Trails Trips Radiating from Lake Louise 87
10. Rundle MouNTAiN-From Banff up the west face of mount
Kundle. Approximately 3| miles.
11. Sulphur Mountain— From Banff up the east slope of Sulphur
mountain, past the Hot Springs to the Observatory. Approxi
mately 5 miles.
12. Red Deer — From Banff by motor road to Bankhead, approxima
tely 6 miles, thence up the Cascade river by trail to the Panther
river, following down the latter to its junction with the Red Deer
river, and up the Red Deer to Pipestone creek, down Pipestone
creek and Pipestone river to Laggan, total 140 miles. Return
trip to Banff may be made by motor road or by train 40 miles.
TRAIL TRIPS RADIATING FROM LAKE LOUISE
1. Lake Trail — From Chateau Lake Louise, following the west shore
of the lake to opposite end, 1 f miles.
Extension Trips
Lower Glacier — From the head of Lake trail, following the
creek up to Victoria glacier, 4 miles.
2. Lakes in the Clouds — -From the Chateau the trail climbs 1,000
feet to Mirror lake, thence 200 feet to lake Agnes, 5 miles.
Extension Trips
(a) Lookout Point — From Mirror lake trail follows around the
face of the Beehive to Lookout point, \ mile.
(b) Upper Glacier — From Lookout point along the mountain
side to join Lower glacier trail, 1 j miles.
(c) Beehive — From lake Agnes the trail climbs to the summit of
the Beehive, \ mile.
(d) Mount St. Piran — From lake Agnes to the summit of mount
St. Piran, 1 mile.
(e) Little Beehive — From Mirror lake to the summit of the
Little Beehive, 1 mile.
3. Paradise Valley — From the Chateau trail leads around the foot
of mount Fairview and up Paradise valley, 1 0 miles.
Extension Trips
(a) Lake Annette — From Paradise valley trail across the creek
to lake Annette, 1 mile.
(b) Giant Steps — From Paradise valley to the Giant Steps,
1 mile.
(c) Sentinel Pass — From Paradise valley through Sentinel pass
to Moraine lake, 7 miles.

88 Trail Trips
4. Saddleback — From the Chateau the trail climbs between mount
Fairview and Saddleback, thence follows Sheol valley to meet
trail in Paradise valley, 5 miles.
5. Moraine Lake — From the foot of Paradise valley to the valley
of the Ten Peaks and Moraine lake, 5 miles.
Extension Trips
(a) Consolation Lakes — From Moraine lake cabin, leading up
Consolation valley to the lakes, 3 miles.
(b) Wenkchemna Pass — From Moraine lake leading along the
Glacier to the summit of the Wenkchemna pass, 5 miles.
6. Hector — From the Chateau along the mountain side to the Great
Divide, thence to Hector, 1 0 miles.
Extension Trips
Lake O'Hara — From Hector, following up Cataract creek to lake
O'Hara, thence to lake McArthur, 1 0 miles.
7. Bow Lakes — From the Chateau by motor road to Laggan, thence
by trail up the Bow valley to Bow lakes and North park boundary,
36 miles.
8. Pipestone — From the Chateau by motor road to Laggan, thence by
trail up the Pipestone river to Pipestone summit, 32 miles.
Extension Trips
Little Pipestone — From the Pipestone trail at the mouth
of Pipestone creek, up the latter to Red Deer summit and
Ptarmigan lake, 8 miles.
9. Ptarmigan — From the Chateau by motor road to Laggan, thence
by trail up Corral creek to Ptarmigan lake, 16 miles.
TRAIL TRIPS RADIATING FROM FIELD
1 . Fossil Beds — From Field up mount Stephen to the fossil beds.
Approximately 3 miles.
2. Yoho Lake — From Field across Kickinghorse river over Burgess
pass to Yoho lake. Approximately 6 miles.
Extension Trips
(a) Twin Falls — From Yoho lake down to the Yoho river at
Takakkaw falls and up the river to Twin falls. Approximate
ly 9 miles. A return trip to Yoho lake may be made from
Twin falls along a higher trail approximately the same length.

Trail Trips Radiating from Field 89
(b) WHALEBACK-From Twin falls over Whaleback mountain
and back to upper trail. Approximately 2i miles.
(c) Yoho Glacier— From Twin falls following the Yoho river to
the glacier. Approximately 4 miles.
(d) Little Yoho— From the Upper Yoho trail and following up
the Little Yoho river, returning on opposite side. Approxi
mately 14 miles.
(e) Emerald Lake— From Yoho lake, leading over the Yoho pass
to chalet at the foot of Emerald lake, where the trail meets
the auto road from Field. Approximately 4 miles.
3. Lake O'Hara — Starting from Field along the auto road, approxi
mately 6 miles, to Ottertail river, thence by trail up the Ottertail
river and McArthur creek to lake O'Hara, approximately 22 miles.
Return trip can be made from lake O'Hara down Cataract creek
to Hector, and by road to Field, approximately 16 miles. Total
round trip from Field, approximately 43 miles.
4. Amiskwi — Starting from Field, approximately 3 miles along Eme
rald lake road, thence up the Amiskwi river, a distance of 8 miles.
5. Kickinghorse — Starting from Field along Emerald Lake road,
approximately 3 miles, to Natural bridge, thence along Kicking
horse river and across the river to meet the Ottertail road, approxi
mately 12 miles. Return to Field via latter road, a distance of 6
miles.
6. Beaverfoot — From Field along the Ottertail road to Ottertail,
approximately 8 miles, thence by trail along the Kickinghorse
and Beaverfoot rivers to the mouth of the Ice river, approximately
21 miles. Extension Trips
(a) Ice River — From the Beaverfoot trail at the mouth of the Ice
river, up river. Approximately 6 miles.
(b) Leanchoil — From the Beaverfoot trail near Deer Lodge,
crossing the Kickinghorse river and following the C.P.R. to
Leanchoil. Approximately 3 miles.
(c) Deer Lodge — From the Beaverfoot trail up the mountain past
Deer lodge. Approximately 1\ miles.
7. Summit Lake — From Field east along old C.P.R. right of way
to the Kickinghorse canyon, approximately 3 miles, thence by
trail to Hector and Summit lakes, approximately 3 miles.
Extension Trips
Sherbrooke Lake — From C.P.R. right of way at Kicking
horse canyon north by trail to Sherbrooke lake, approximately
4 miles.

90 Trail Trips
TRAIL TRIPS RADIATING FROM GLACIER
1. Nakimu Caves — From Glacier by wagon road, 3| miles, thence
to the Caves by trail, 1 1 miles.
2. Great Glacier — From Glacier trail climbs to the Great glacier,
with return trail on the opposite side of the creek, 40 miles.
Extension Trip
Sir Donald — From the Great glacier trail climbs up mount
Sir Donald, 3 miles.
3. Asulkan — From Glacier, trail leads south up Asulkan brook to the
Asulkan glacier, 6 miles.
4. Mount Abbott — From Glacier trail climbs mount Abbott, 6 miles.
5. LooK-OuT — From Glacier climbing mount Avalanche to the Ava
lanche glacier, 5J miles.
6. Rogers Pass — From Glacier trail climbs to Rogers pass along old
railway right of way, 4 miles.
Extension Trips
(a) Baloo Pass — From Rogers pass leads west through Baloo
pass and connects with Nakimu caves trail at the Caves, 5
miles.
(b) Mount Hermit — From the old railway right of way, half a
mile east of Rogers pass, trail climbs mount Hermit, 3f
miles.

Black Bear
APPENDIX 3
*PLACE NAMES AND ALTITUDES IN ROCKY
MOUNTAINS PARK
Abbot; pass, 9,588 ft.; after Philip Stanley Abbot, member of the
Appalachian Mountain Club, Boston, who met his death on the
steeps of mount Lefroy, 1 896.
Aberdeen; mount, 10,340 ft.; after the Marquis of Aberdeen, former
Governor General of Canada.
Agnes; lake, 6,875 ft.; after Susan Agnes, wife of Sir John A. Mac
donald, former Premier of Canada.
Annette; lake; after Mrs Astley, wife of the late manager of the
Lake Louise Chalet. (Wilcox) .
Assiniboine; mount, 1 1,860 ft.; after the Assiniboine tribe of Indians.
(Dawson)
Aylmer; mountain, 10,365 ft.; after town of Aylmer, Quebec.
(McArthur).
Babel; mount, 8,590 ft.; fancied resemblance to Tower of Babel.
Ball; mount, 10,825 ft.; after John Ball, Under-Secretary of State
for the Colonies, 1 855-57. (Hector)
Banff; town, 4,521 ft.; by Lord Strathcona, after his birthplace,
Banff, Scotland.
Bankhead; town, 4,596 ft.; by Lord Strathcona, after Bankhead,
Banffshire, Scotland.
Bath; creek, (bed) 5,272 ft.; creek named July 20, 1881, when Major
Rogers, of the Canadian Pacific engineering staff, took an invo
luntary bath in it by being thrown from his horse.
*From a paper by Mr. Jas. White, Deputy Head of the Commis
sion of Conservation, read before the Royal Society of Canada, 1916.

92 Place Names and Altitudes
Bident; mount, 10,109 ft.; resembles a double tooth.
Bonnet; peak, 10,290 ft.; descriptive of summit.
Boom; lake, 6,210 ft.; mountain, 9,015 ft.; drift wood dammed against
a shoal resembled a lumberman's boom.
Bosworth; mount, 9,083 ft.; after G. M. Bosworth, 4th Vice-presi
dent Canadian Pacific Railway.
Bourgeau; mount, 9,517 ft.; after E. Bourgeau, botanist to the
Palliser expedition. (Hector)
Bow; river; pass, 6,868 ft.; lake, 6,420 ft.; the wood which grew on
the banks of the river was suitable for the making of bows; trans
lation of Cree Indian name "manachaban."
Brewster; creek; after Jas Brewster, well known guide and out
fitter, Banff.
Canmore; town, 4,284 ft.; after Kenmore village, Argyllshire, Scot
land.
Cascade; mountain, 9,826 ft.; from translation of Indian name
"mountain where the water falls."
Castle; mountain, 9,030 ft.; from resemblance to feudal fortress.
(Hector)
Consolation; valley; pass, 8,300 ft.; named by Wilcox in contrast
to neighboring Desolation valley.
Copper; mountain, .9, 1 60 ft.; named by Dawson on account of copper
deposits.
Costigan; mountain, 9,630 ft.; after late Hon. John Costigan, Min
ister in Sir John A. Macdonald's Government.
Deltaform; mount, 11,225 ft.; from similarity to Greek letter A.
Devils Head; mountain, 9,205 ft.; translation of Cree name "We-
ti-kwas-ti-kwan." Sir Geo. Simpson says that it bears a rude
resemblance to an upturned face.
Devils Thumb; mountain, 9,108 ft.; descriptive.
Douglas; mount, 1 1,015 ft.; after David Douglas, a Scottish botanist
who crossed the Athabaska pass, 1 827.
Drummond; mount, 9,530 ft.; after Thos. Drummond, Assistant
naturalist in Franklin's second expedition to the Arctic, 1 825-27
(Dawson)
Edith; mount, 8,370 ft.; after Mrs. J. F. Orde (nee Edith Cox), who
visited Banff with Lady Macdonald in 1 886.
Eiffel; peak, 10,091 ft.; from huge tower rising about 1,000 feet,
which suggests Eiffel tower.
Fairholme; range (N. peak), 9,305 ft.; named by Hector, probably
after Fairholme seat, Lanarkshire, Scotland.
Fairview; mount, 9,001 ft.; magnificent view from summit.

In Rocky Mountains Park 93
Fatigue; mountain, 9,696 ft.; descriptive of explorer's sensations
when climbing mountain.
Fay; mount 10,612 ft.; after Prof. Chas. E. Fay, member of Appala
chian Mountain Club, Boston.
Ghost; river; formerly called Dead Man's river, which from Dead
Man's hill; combatants slain in a battle were buried on top of
the hill.
Girouard; mount, 9,815 ft.; after Sir Percy Girouard, K.C.M G
D.S.O.
Goat; mountain, 9,290 ft.; translation of Indian name "Wap-u-tik "
(Palliser)
Grotto; mountain, 8,870 ft.; contains a large cave with high arched
roof. (Bourgeau)
Haddo; peak, 10,073 ft.; after George, Lord Haddo, eldest son of
the Marquis of Aberdeen.
Healy; creek; named by Dr. Dawson after Capt. J. J. Healy, some
time manager of N.A.T. & T. Co., Dawson, who located some
copper claims on adjoining mountain.
Hector; mount, 11,125 ft.; lake, 5,654 ft.; after Dr. (later Sir) Jsmes
Hector, geologist with the Palliser expedition, who discovered the
Kickinghorse pass.
Hole-in-the-Wall; mountain, 9,184 ft.; from cave in side of mount
ain.
Howse; pass, 4,500 ft.; after Jos. Howse, employee of Hudson's Bay
Company, who crossed pass in 1810 to Montana.
Inglismaldie; mountain, 9,715 ft.; after Inglismaldie castle, seat of
Earl of Kintore, Scotland.
Kananaskis; river (mouth), 4,179 ft.; corruption of "Kin-e-ah-kis,"
a Cree Indian, who is reputed to have made a marvellous recovery
after a blow from an axe.
Lefroy; mount, 11,220 ft.; after Major-General Sir John H. Lefroy,
head of Toronto Observatory, 1842-53. (Hector)
Louis; mount, 8,800 ft.; after Louis B. Stewart, D.T.S., Professor
of Surveying, Toronto University.
Louise; lake, 5,670 ft.; after Her Royal Highness Princess Louise,
wife of Marquis of Lome, former Governor General of Canada.
Margaret; lake, 5,924 ft.; after a daughter of Rev. H. P. Nichols,
Holy Trinity Church, New York. (Thompson)
McConnell; mount, 10,000 ft.; after R. G. McConneU, Deputy
Minister, Department of Mines; assistant to Dr. Dawson in 1882.
Minnewanka; lake, 4,800 ft.; Indian name meaning "lake of the
water spirit."
Mirror; lake, 6,650 ft.; from the reflection in the lake when seen
from a great height above.

94 Place Names and Altitudes
Mitre, The; mountain, 9,470 ft.; from its resemblance to a bishop's
mitre.
Molar; mount, 9,914 ft.; "so much resembling a large tooth that we
named it mount Molar." (Hector)
Moraine; lake, 6,190 ft.; after the ridge of glacial formation at its
lower end. (Wilcox)
Morley; village, 4,067 ft.; after famous Methodist clergyman. Rev.
William Morley Punshon.
Neptuak; mountain, 10,607 ft.; Stoney Indian numeral "nine"; the
ninth of the Ten Peaks.
Niblock; mount, 9,754 ft.; after Superintendent Niblock, Canadian
Pacific Railway.
Norquay; mount, 8,284 ft.; after Hon. John Norquay, sometime
Premier of Manitoba.
Opal; mountain, 8,000 ft.; from small cavities found here, lined with
quartz crystals coated with films of opal.
Palliser; range (summit), 9,930 ft.; after Capt. John Palliser, who
commanded an exploration expedition in the Rockies, 1857-60.
Peechee; mount, 9,615 ft.; after Sir George Simpson's half-breed
guide.
Pigeon; mountain, 7,845 ft.; probably after the wild pigeons seen in
the vicinity. (Bourgeau)
Pilot; mountain, 9,680 ft.; because visible for a long distance down
the valley.
Pinnacle; mountain, 10,062 ft.; descriptive. (Wilcox)
Pipestone; river (mouth), 5,029 ft.; because of the occurrence on
it of fragments of soft, fine-grained, grey-blue argillite, which the
Indians have used in the manufacture of pipes. (Hector)
Pulpit; peak, 8,930 ft.; descriptive. (Thompson)
Redearth; creek; from the red ochre found on its banks.
Redoubt; peak, 9,510 ft.; "formation resembles a huge redoubt."
(Wheeler)
Rundle; mount, 9,665 ft.; after Rev. Robt. T. Rundle, Methodist
Missionary to the Indians of the Northwest, 1840-48. The
Stonies say of him "poor he came among us and poor he went
away, leaving us rich".
St. Piran; mount, 8,681 ft.; after St. Piran, Liggan bay, Cornwall,
Eng., the birthplace of W. J. Astley, late manager Lake Louise
Chalet. (Wilcox)
Sawback; range (summit), 10,000 ft.; its vertical beds of limestone
form a serrated edge.
Seebee; station, 4,217 ft.; Cree Indian for "river."
Sheol; mountain, 9,108 ft.; previously called Devils Thumb; name
changed to avoid confusion with Devils Head.

Tn Rocky Moimtains Park 95
Simpson; pass, 6,650 ft., after Sir Geo. Simpson, Govemor of Hudson's
1 84 1 P^^y- ^*^° crossed it on his journey around the world in
Spray; river, from spray of falls in river.
Storm; mountain, 10.309 ft.; after numerous storm clouds seen on
Its summit. (Dawson)
Sulphur; mountain, 8,030 ft.; from hot springs on side.
Temple; mount, 11,626 ft.; by Dawson, after Sir Richard Temple,
t^fesident hconomic Science and Statistics Section, British Asso
ciation, 1884, which visited the Rockies in that year.
Three Sisters; peaks (highest), 9,734 ft.; descriptive.
Tuzo; mount, 10,648 ft.; after Miss Henrietta L. Tuzo, now Mrs. J.
A. Wilson of Ottawa, first lady to ascend Eagle peak.
Tyrrell; mount, 8,846 ft.; after J. B. Tyrrell, Assistant Geologist
with Dawson in survey of Rocky Mountains, 1883.
Vermilion; lakes, 4,521 ft.; from ferruginous beds in vicinity.
Victoria; mount, 11,355 ft.; by McArthur after late Queen Victoria.
Wastach; river (Paradise valley); Stoney Indian for "beautiful."
Wenkchemna; mountain, 10,401 ft.; Stoney Indian numeral mean
ing "ten."
White; mount, 9,131 ft.; after Jas. White, Deputy Head Commis
sion of Conservation, Ottawa, Assistant to Dr. Dawson, 1884.
Whyte; mount, 9,776 ft.; after late Sir William Whyte, 2nd Vice-
President, Canadian Pacific Railway.
Wind; mountain, 10,100 ft.; by Bourgeau because surrounded, when
seen, by wind clouds.
Yukness; mount, 9,342 ft.; Sioux Indian for "sharpened as with a
knife." *PLACE NAMES AND ALTITUDES IN YOHO PARK
Amiskwi; peak, 9,249 ft.: Cree Indian for "beaver."
Baker; mount, 10,441 ft.; after G. P. Baker, member Appalachian
Mountain Club, Boston. (Collie)
Balfour; mount, 10,731 ft.; by Sir Jas. Hector, after John Hutton
Balfour (1808-84), botanist, Edinburgh, Scotland.
Biddle; mount, 10,876 ft.; after M. Biddle, who climbed mount Sir
Donald in 1902.
Burgess; mount, 8,463 ft.; after late A. M. Burgess, former Deputy
Minister of the Interior.

*From a paper by Mr. Jas. White, Deputy Head of the Commis
sion of Conservation, read before the Royal Society of Canada, 1916.
25489—7

96 Place Names and Altitudes
Cathedral; mountain, 10,454 ft.; from resemblance to cathedral.
Chancellor; peak, 10,731 ft.; after Sir John Boyd, Chancellor of
Ontario.
Daly; mount, 10,332 ft.; after late Judge Chas. F. Daly, President
American Geographical Society, 1 864-99.
Dennis; mount, 8,326 ft.; after late Lieut.-Col. J. Stoughton Dennis,
Surveyor-General of Canada.
Duchesnay; mount, 9,592 ft.; after late E. J. Duchesnay, C.E.,
Assistant General Superintendent, Canadian Pacific Railway,
killed in tunnel near Spuzzum by falling rock.
Emerald; lake, 4,262 ft.; peak, 8,332 ft.; from colour of water.
Field; town, 4,066 ft.; mount, 8,645 ft.; after Cyrus West Field,
promoter of first Atlantic cable, who visited the locality in 1 884.
Goodsir; mountain, 11,676 ft.; after John Goodsir, Professor of
Anatomy, Edinburgh University from 1 846. (Hector)
Habel; mount, 10,361 ft.; after Dr. Jeart Habel, Berlin.
Hungabee; mount, 11,447 ft.; Stoney Indian word meaning "chief
tain."
Ice; river; translation of Indian name "Wash-ma-Wapta"; rises in
glaciers of mount Vaux. (Dawson)
Kickinghorse; pass, 5,332 ft.; Sir Jas. Hector was nearly killed by
a kick from his horse near site of present Wapta station; name is
abbreviation of translation from Indian.
Kiwetinok; peak, 9,512 ft.; Cree Indian word signifying "on the
north side."
Leanchoil; station, 3,682 ft.; Lord Strathcona's mother was Barbara
Stuart of the manor of Leth-na-Coyle (Lainchoil), Inverness,
Scotland. (Strathcona)
Marpole; mount, 9,822 ft.; after R. Marpole, General Executive
Assistant, Canadian Pacific Railway, Vancouver,
McArthur; lake, 7,359 ft.; after J. J. McArthur, D.L.S., International
Boundary Surveys, Department of the Interior.
Niles; mount, 9,742 ft.; after Prof. W. H. Niles, President of the
Appalachian Mountain Club. (Fay)
Odaray; mount, 10,165 ft.; Stoney Indian for "very brushy" or
"wind-fall". (Habel)
Oesa; lake, 7,398 ft.; from Stoney Indian word meaning "ice"; its
surface is ice-covered practically all the time.
O'Hara; lake, 6,664 ft.; after Lieut.-Col. O'Hara, R. A., who fre
quently visited the locality.
Ottertail; river; translation of Indian name.
Pollinger; mount, 8,998 ft.; after Jos. Pollinger, Swiss guide, who
made first ascents of the President, The Vice-President and other
peaks.

In Yoho Park 97
President; peak, 10,287 ft.; after Lord Shaughnessy, President of
Canadian Pacific Railway. (McNicoll)
^'^"^(W'ikox) ''^"^^' ^^^^^ ^" "^'^ prospector's camp near its entrance
Ross; lake, 5,654 ft.; after the late Sir Jas. Ross, Superintendent of
Construction, Canadian Pacific Railway, in 1884.
Schaeffer; mount, 8,824 ft.; after Dr. and Mrs. Schaeffer, of Phila
delphia, who did valuable exploration and botanical work in the
Rockies. The latter (now Mrs. William Warren, of Banff) dis
covered Maligne lake, Jasper park.
Stephen; mount, 10,485 ft.; after Sir Geo. Stephen, later Baron
Mount Stephen, formerly President, Canadian Pacific Railway.
Takakkaw; falls; Indian name signifying "it is wonderful"; suggested
by Sir William Van Home.
Trolltinder; peak, 9,414 ft.; named by Jean Habel because it
resembles somewhat a well known mountain in the Norwegian
valley of Romsdalen; name signifies "witch's peak."
Van Horne; range; after late Sir William Van Home, formerly Chair
man, Canadian Pacific Railway. (Dawson)
Vaux; mount, 10,881 ft.; possibly after George Charles (Mostyn) 6th
Lord Vaux de Harrowden. (Hector)
Vice-President; mount, 10,049 ft.; after late D. McNichol, 1st
Vice-President, Canadian Pacific Railway.
Wapta; peak, 9,106 ft.; Stoney Indian for "river."
Waputik; range, 10,000 ft.; Stoney Indian for "white goat"; former
favourite haunt of goats.
Wiwaxy; peaks, 8,863 ft.; Stoney Indian for "windy."
Yoho; valley, 4,800 ft.; pass, 6,020 ft.; Cree Indian word signifying
"wonder or astonishment."
?PLACE NAMES AND ALTITUDES IN GLACIER PARK
Abbott; mount, 8,081 ft.; after H. Abbott, an official of the Canadian
Pacific Railway.
Albert; canyon, 2,350 ft.; by Rev. Principal Grant for Albert Rogers,
nephew of Major Rogers, discoverer of Rogers Pass.
Asulkan; valley, 4,100 to 6,600 ft.; Indian for "wild goat"; by W.
Spotswood Green, because of numbers of wild goats seen on pass
at the head of Asulkan glacier.
Avalanche; mount, 9,387 ft.; owing to numerous avalanches.
Bagheera; mount, 9,096 ft.; by the Topographical Survey (bag-
heera, tiger), with reference to Cougar brook.

*Data from "The Selkirk Mountains", by A. 0. Wheeler, Director
of the Alpine Club of Canada.

98 Place Names and Altitudes
Bald; mountain, 7,663 ft.; owing to smooth, grassy slopes lying along
its crest.
Baloo; pass, 6,681 ft.; Indian for "bear," with reference to Bear
creek.
Battle; creek; owing to a fight between a prospector and a grizzly.
Bear; creek, 2,900 to 7,000 ft.; owing to former prevalence of bears
in its valley.
Beaver; river, 2,400 to 4,600 ft.; from great number of beavers that
formerly inhabited the valley.
Bishop's; range, 10,762 ft.; by Topographical Survey, with reference
to contour of its two highest peaks seen from Donkin pass.
Bonney; mount, 10,205 ft.; by W. S. Green, after Rev. T. G. Bonney,
F.R.S. , Prof. University College, London, and then President,
Alpine Club (England).
Camels, The; peculiarly shaped rocks on the summit of mount
Tupper.
Castor; peak, 9,108 ft.; by Messrs. Abbott, Fay and Thompson,
with reference to Castor and Pollux of heathen mythology.
Cheops; mount, 8,506 ft.; with reference to Great Pyramid of Cheops,
from the pyramidal form of the extreme peak.
Cougar; brook, 3,500 to 7,000 ft.; owing to cougars or mountain
lions by which valley was said to have been frequented.
Corbin; peak, 8,892 ft.; after a prospector from Illecillewaet village.
Dawson; mount, 11,113 ft.; by W. S. Green, after late George M.
Dawson, D.S., F.G.S., Director Geological Survey of Canada.
Dome, The; 9,029 ft.; on account of its contour, by Messrs. Fay,
Thompson and Abbott.
Donkin; mount, 9,694 ft.; by W. S. Green, after W. F. Donkin, of
the Alpine Club, England ; killed in Caucasus in year Mr. Green
made his survey of Selkirks, i 888.
Douglas; falls, 5,000 ft.; after Howard Douglas, formerly Chief
Superintendent, Dominion Parks.
Eagle; peak, 9,353 ft.; rock on southeast face seen from Glacier
House resembles an eagle.
Feuz; peak, 10,982 ft.; after Ed. Feuz, Sr., Swiss guide stationed at
Glacier House.
Fox; mount, 10,576 ft.; by W. S. Green, after Mr. Fox, English
Alpinist, who lost his life in Caucasus, 1 888.
Geikie; glacier, 4,200 to 8,000 ft.; by W. S. Green, after Sir Archibald
Geikie, F.R.S.
Green; mount, 8,860 ft.; after W. S. Green, author of "Among the
Selkirk Glaciers."
Hermit, The; 8,887 ft.; a rock-figure on west ridge of mount Tupper,
resembling a hermit with dog sitting at his feet.

In Glacier Park 99
Illecillewaet; river; by Walter Moberly, C.E.; Indian for "swift
water. '
Incomappleux; river; Kootenay Indian for "fish river."
Lily; glacier, 5,500 to 8,200 ft.; after daughter of Rev. H. Swanzy
who explored Selkirk glaciers with W. S. Green.
Macdonald; mount, 9,428 ft.; by Order-in-Council, after the late
Rt. Hon. Sir John A. Macdonald, Premier of Canada.
Macoun; mount, 9,988 ft.; after late Prof. John Macoun, Dominion
Naturalist and Botanist.
Marion; lake, 5,666 ft.; by W. S. Green, after his daughter.
McNicoll; mount, 8,745 ft.; after D. McNicoll, Vice-President,
Canadian Pacific Railway.
Mitre; creek; in relation to Bishop's glacier.
Nakimu; caves; Indian for "grumbling."
Purity; mountain, 10,457 ft.; by H. W. Topham, who saw it from
Donkin pass, a pure white cone shrouded in snow.
Rampart; The, 8,476 ft.; with reference to the great rock escarp
ment rising sheer above Asulkan valley.
Rogers; mount, 10,536 ft.; by Carl Sulzer, after Major Rogers,
discoverer of Rogers pass.
Ross; peak, 7,718 ft.; after Jas. Ross, in charge of construction,
Canadian Pacific Railway.
Selwyn; mount, 11,013 ft.; after late Dr. Selwyn, Director, Geolo
gical Survey of Canada.
Sir Donald; mount, 10,808 ft.; by Order-in-Council, after Sir Donald
A. Smith, later Lord Strathcona, one of the first directors of the
Canadian Pacific Railway.
Sir Sandford; mount, 1 1 ,634 ft.; after Sir Sandford Fleming, K.C.M.G.,
first President, Alpine Club of Canada.
Smart; mount, 9,517 ft.; after Jas. A. Smart, formerly Deputy Min
ister, Department of Interior.
Swanzy; mount, 9,562 ft.; after Rev. H. Swanzy, W. S. Green's
companion in exploration of Selkirks, 1 888.
Tupper; mount, 9,229 ft.; formerly mount Hermit, changed by
Order-in-Council, in honour of Sir Charles Tupper, one of the
fathers of Confederation.
Ursus Major; mount, 8,930 ft.; in relation to Bear creek, by Topo
graphical Survey.
Ursus Minor; mount, 9,026 ft.; in relation to Bear creek, by Topo
graphical Survey.
Witch Tower, The; 8,080 ft.; fantastic group of rock-shapes on
northwestern shoulder from the summit of mount Fox; suggests
number of hideous old giant beldames leaning from parapet of
rock tower.
25489- 8

100 Place Names and Altitudes
*PLACE NAMES AND ALTITUDES IN MOUNT REVELSTOKE
PARK
Clach-na-coodin; range, 8,675 ft.; after the Clach-na-cudden or
"Stone of the Tubs", the palladium of Inverness, Scotland.
Revelstoke; mount; after Lord Revelstoke, English financier and
member Canadian Pacific Railway Company, who visited Cana
dian West in late eighties.
*Data from "The Selkirk Mountains", by A. 0. Wheeler, Directol
of the Alpine Club of Canada.

INDEX

Page
Abbot pass  52, 53
Abbott, mount  67, 90
Aberdeen, mount  52
Accommodation at Banff  21
Agnes, lake  48, 49, 78
Ah-ka-noosta. legend re  5
Alberta, mount  54
Alpine climbing, Rockies as field for 38
Alpine club and clubhouse. .21, 39, 30, 42
Alps compared with Rockies  6,7
Amiskwi river  89
Androsaces  78
Anemones  52, 77
Annette, lake  52, 87
Anthracite, town and hill  16
Arctomys columbianus  67, 81
Area, parks  6, 7
Arnicas  78
Assiniboine group  14. 30
" Indians  43
mount 29, 30, 37, 39, 42, 43, 85, 86
" pass  42
Asters, purple  52
Asulkan, brook  66, 90
" falls  67
" valley  67
Athabaska, mount  54
Auditorium, Nakimu caves  68
Avalanche, mount and basin  66
Aylmer canyon, and mount  33, 39, 42

Page
Begbie, mount  72, 73
Biddle, mount  53
Bident, mount  51
Big game hunting  83
Bighorn sheep  34, 79, 80, 83
Birch, mountain  75
Birds of the Rockies  81
Blackfeet, Indians  11
Boating at Banff  27
Boom mountain  36
Bourgeau, mount  ,  28, 34
Bow bridge  18, 25, 29
" falls  28
" Gap  16
" glacier  55
" lake  54,55,88
" range  49, 50
" river, and valley. . .11, 15, 16, 17 18,
21,22,23,25,26,27,28,29,30, 31,32,34.35, 37,44,45,49,50,
54, 75, 77
Brazeau river  54
Brett, mount  28
Brewster creek  42, 85
Bridal Chamber, Nakimu caves  68
Bryant creek  85
Bryce, mount  54
Buffalo  16
Bungalow camp, Wapta  57
Burgess, mount and trail  58, 59, 61
Burpee, Lawrence J  46

B

Babel, mount  51
Balm of Gilead  75
Balfour glacier, and mount  55, 59
Ball, mount  34, 44
Baloo pass  68, 69, 90
Banff, town. . 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 23 24,
25,26,31,33,36,41,75,79,83,85,86
Banff-California Bee Line  35
Banff Springs Hotel  21, 26, 27
Bankhead, town  10, 31
Basin spring  26
Bathhouse, Banff  24
Bear  22, 79
Bear Creek valley  68
Beaver  81
Beaverfoot river  89
Beehive, Big  47,48,49,87
" Little  30,47,48, 87

C
Canadian National Parks, purpose,
administration and area  6, 7
Canmore, town  10, 16
Carrot creek  86
Cascade, falls  66
" mountain  16, 18,29,30,31, 34, 39, 86
" river  32, 86
Castle mountain  14, 34, 37
" station. ..10, 14, 17,28,35,37,48
Castor, mount  67
Cataract brook ,and valley  53, 63
" peak  54
Cathedral mountain  59
Cave spring  25, 26, 31, 44
Cedar, Giant  76
Chancellor peak  63
Cheops, mount  68
Chickadee  82

102

Index

Page

Clach-na-Coodin ran'ge 

71

Clearwater lakes, and river. .

 44, 54

Climate at Banff 

19

Climbs at Banff 

39

" Glacier 

69

" Lake Louise 

49

Coleman, Dr. A. P 

78

Columbia icefield 

54

" mount 

54

" river 

.7,8,65,72

valley 

36

78

Consolation lakes 

 51. 88

valley 

 38, 51

Copper mountain 

34

Cordilleras, Canadian 

 7, 8

Costigan, mount 
Cottonwood tree 
Cougar creek, and valley.
Coyotes 
Cree Indians 
Cuthead creek 

33766822 3386

D

Dawson, Dr . . .
"Death Trap"
Deer 
Deer Lodge . . .
De la Verendrye  11

43 52
6, 79, 80

89 15

Deltaform, mount  49, 50
Devils canyon  33
" club  76
" Gap  16,32,33,42
_ " Head....._.  15, 33
"Diamond hitch"  41
Divide, The. 12, 14, 30, 34, 36, 37, 44, 52,
57, 82
Dome, The  67
Drives about Banff  31

Fairholme range 
Fairview, mount  43, 47,
Fay, mount 
Field, town  29,57,58,59,60.
Fir, balsam 
" Douglas 
Fishing 
Fish lakes 
Flowers of the Rockies 
Fool-hen 
Forests of the Rockies 
" Selkirks 
Fortymile lake 
Fossil beds 
Franklin's grouse or fool-hen 
Freshfield group 

Page
16. 30
48,49 51
62, 6376767954 78
8175 76
30 8881
54

77,

Gaillardias  78
Gap, The  79
Geikie glacier  66
Gentians  78
Ghost river, and valley  31 , 42, 86
Giant Steps  52, 87
Girouard, mount  33
Glacier House  65, 66, 68, 69
Glacier Park  7, 65
Goat mountain  30, 31
Goat range  41
Gold range  72, 73
Golden, town  36
Goldenrods  78
Golf links at Banff  26, 27
Goodsir, mount  44, 60, 63
Government campsite  21
fish hatchery, Banff. . . 79
Griffith station  65
Grotto mountain  16
Guides, Swiss  40
Gull lake  33

Eagle, golden.

" peak 
Echo river 
Edith, mount and pass.
Eldon, town 
Elk 
Ella, lake 
Elworthy iR.T 
Emerald lake 
Emerald Lake Chalet. .
" peak 
Eva, Lake 
Everlastings 
Exshaw, town 

.28, 31

82
. . . 72. 736628
34, 39, 75
28
...16, 7971238957
60 717879

.60, 61,

H
Habel, Jean  58
Healy creek   42, 44, 75
Hector, lake  54, 55
" mount  48, 50, 52
Hector, Sir James  11, 62
Hector station  53, 57, 88
Hemlock  76
Henshaw, Mrs. Julia  77
Hermit, mount  90
Hillsdale hills  34
Hoary marmot  67, 81
Hole-in-the-Wall mountain  34
Hoodoos  16, 31
Hornaday, Dr. W. T  79
Horseshoe glacier  51, 52

Index

Hot springs ,
Howse group ,
Hudson's Bay Company
Hungabee, mount

Page
'3. 22, 23, 24, 25, 26

14 11
44, 49, 52

I
{"^^^ge  ,0 ,,
Ice box, canyon  t.
Ice river, and valley  53 39
Illecillewaet glacier  ' ^^
"ver  65,66,72
" snowfield  5^
Indian Paint-brush  yg
Inglismaldie, mount  ] 6 3 1 33
J
Jasper Park  36
Johnston canyon  3 1 , 34. 35
creek  86
Judgment Hall, Nakimu caves  68
K
Kananaskis Gap  16
lakes and river  28,41,85
" range  16
Kickinghorse falls  62
pass. ...12, 54, 57, 58, 59
river  41,59,62,89
Kidney spring  25
Kootenay Indians  11
Park  6
" river  7

L
Laggan group  14, 37
Lake Louise. .9, 14, 29, 30, 31, 36, 38, 39,
44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 51, 53, 54, 57, 60, 76
Lake Louise Chateau  47, 48, 49, 53
Lake Minnewanka drive  31
Lakes in the Clouds  48, 87
Langstaff, T.G  6
Larch, Lyall's  52, 76
Larkspurs  77
Laughing falls  60
Leanchoil, town  63, 89
Lefroy glacier  51
" mount. 38, 44, 45, 47, 48, 49, 51,
52, 53
Leucosticte  82
Lilies  78
Lookout point, Lake Louise  49, 87
" trail. Glacier Park  90
Loop drive  31
Louis, mount  39
Lynx  22

Mc

McArthur, lake.

M
Mackenzie, Sir Alexander .
Marble canyon 
Marbleway, Nakimu caves.
Margaret, lake 
Marion lake 

103
Page
53, 63

11
366855 67

Marmot, Hoary  67, 81
" Parry's or Lesser  81
Martens  22, 81
Massive range  18, 28, 34
"Meeting of the Waters"  66
Menotah falls  67
Meteorological station. Government. 30
Middle springs  25
Millar, lake  71
Minnewanka, lake. . . 15. 30, 31, 32, 39, 42,
78, 79
Mirror lake  48
Mistaya river  7
Mitre, The  51, 52
Molar, mount  54
Moose  16, 79
Moraine lake  36, 38, 49, 51, 60, 88
" Lake Chalet  51
Morley Indian reserve  15
Mountain blue bird  82
" climbing  38
goat  79,80,83
" heather, red  78
" lakes  78
" pony  40
Mount Revelstoke motor road  72
Mount Revelstoke Park  7, 71
Museum, Government, at Banff. ... 22
Muskrat  81

N

Nakimu caves  68, 89
Natural Bridge  60, 62
Niblock, mount  47
Niles, mount  59
Norquay, mount  18, 34, 39
Northern Twin flowers  78

O

Observatory on Sulphur mountain. . 30
Oesa, lake  53, 63
O'Hara, lake  53, 63, 89
Oreamnos montanus  79, 80, 83
Ottertail mountains  44
" valley  63
Outram, Sir James  43, 45, 53, 67
Ovis canadensis:  34, 79, 80, 83

104

Palliser expedition 
Panther river 
Paradise valley  38, 49,
Parker, Elizabeth 
Parry's Marmot 
Peechee, Cree Chief 

Index

50, 51

18.

mount 
Peyto, Bill 
Picea canadensis 
Pigeon mountain 
Pika 
Pilot mountain 
Pine, Lodgepole 
Pinnacle mountain 
Pipestone creek 
" pass 
" trail 
Little, trail 
Pollux, mount 
Precipitation at Glacier House 
" in Rockies and Selkirk:
President glacier 
Prospector valley 
Ptarmigan lake 
" white-tailed 

Quadra, mount.
Queencups 

Page 11
44
52,87 6581 11
334375 16
25, 81
28, 3475
49, 52
49, 54
54
54, 88886766 8
61
36, 508882

5178

R
Rampart, The  67
Red Deer country  44
" river  44, 87
Redearth creek  28, 86
Red snow  67
Revelstoke, mount  72
" town of  72
Richardson's grouse  82
River trips, Banff  27
Rocky Mountain goat  79, 80, 183
sheep  34,79,80,83
" Mountains. .5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12. 14,
15, 75, 77
Park  7,13,14,76
Rogers pass  68, 90
" peak  69
Royal Canadian Mounted Police ... 7
Rundle, mount. .11. 16, 19, 21, 22, 26 29,
30, 31, 34, 37, 39, 80, 87
S
Saddle mountain 37, 47, 49, 51,
St. Pierre, Legardeur 
St. Piran, mount  45, 47,
Sandpipers 
Saskatchewan, mount 
Sawback creek, and lake 

52, 88 7
49, 87825486
range  18, 28, 34,37, 75

Page
Saxifrages  78
Schaeffer, mount  53
Seebee station  28
Selkirk mountains  7, 8, 9, 65, 73
Sentinel pass  87
Seven falls  67
Shadow creek  28
Sheol, mount  52
Sherbrooke lake  89
Shuswap Indians  11
Siffleur river  54
Simpson pass  1 1, 42, 44, 76, 77, 86
Sir George  1 1 , 33, 44
Sir Donald, peak  65, 69, 90
Ski-jump, Mt. Revelstoke  71
Smith, Harlan 1  80
*' Sir Donald  12
Snowpeak avenue  60
"Spectre of the Brocken," the  65
Spray bridge, and river. .17, 21, 26, 29, 30
" lakes  41,85
" valley  31, 42
Spruce, white  75
" Englemann's  75
Stephen, mount  44, 59, 63
Stevenson, Robert L  20
Stonecups  78
Stoney Indians  11, 15, 16, 33, 42, 50
" Squaw mountain  18, 34
Storm mountain  36
Sulphur mountain. ... 19, 21, 23, 24, 25,.-28,
30, 34, 39, 43, 87
Summit lake  89
Sundance canyon  31
" creek  85
"Switchback", the  59

Takakkaw falls  57, 59, 61
Temple, mount. 37, 38, 44, 45, 49, 50, 51, 52
TenPeaks  37,38,49,50,51
Three Sisters  16, 41
Tokumn creek  39, 85
Tower of Babel   50, 51
Trail trips from Banff  39, 85
" " " Field  88
" " " Glacier  90
" " " Lake Louise  87
Trees  75
Trout Cutthroat  28, 41, 79
" Dolly Varden or Bull  41 , 79
" Lake  79
" Salmon  79
Tsuga Mertensiana  76
" palloniana  76
Tunnel mountain  17, 21, 29, 31
Turquoise lake  55
Twin falls  60, 88
" lakes  44
" pool  •. 35

Index

U

Page

Upper spring  24, 30, 31
Ursus horribilis  81 83
Uto peak  '66

Van Horne range  63
Vaux, mount  63
Vermilion lakes  28, 30, 34
" pass  35
" range  44
river  12, 50
" summit  31, 34
valley. Little  35
Vernede, R. E  58
Vetches, purple  78
Victoria glacier  45, 52, 53
" mount  38, 44, 45, 47, 49, 52
Violets  77

Wheeler, A.O 
Whiskey-jack  
White Dryas 
White Grotto, Nakimu caves. ...
White Heath 
White Man pass 
Whymper, mount 
Whyte, mount 
Wilcox pass 
" W.D  38,43,47
Wild flowers 
Wildlife 
Willows 
Wind mountain 
Winter sports at Banff 
" " at Mount Revelstoke .
Witches' Ballroom, Nakimu caves. .
Wiwaxy peaks 
Wolverines 

105
Page
66, 69827868
77, 78
41,43 36
47, 5254
48,5171, 777975 16
2071685322

W
Walking Tour Camp  29,
Walks about Banff 
Wapta lake 
" mount 
" station 
Waputik group 
" snowfield 
Wastach brook 
Wenkchemna glacier 

4229
536157 14
55
52 50
50,88

Yak 
Yoho Camp . .
" glacier.
" park. .

.7, 9

" river. Little.
" valley 
Yukness, mount.. .

.2?, 57, 58

16
57, 60
60, 89
57, 8861
59 89
59, 61
52

Whaleback mountain.

89 Zoo at Banff.

22

FURTHER INFORMATION WITH REGARD TO THE
CANADIAN NATIONAL PARKS
MAY BE OBTAINED UPON APPLICATION TO
J. B. HARKIN, Commissioner, Canadian
National Parks, Department of the In
terior, Ottawa, Canada :: :: ::

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

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