The cruiae of the
Fleur
Norway and Xcels.nd91902»
Lewis A.Stimsori. Hew York J

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©J* THE
riXUR^DE.-LYS TO NORWAY i\ND ICELAND
1902

The
Cruise of the Fleur-de-Lys
to
Norway and Iceland
1902

LEWIS A. STIMSON in

Privately printed

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The summer of 1902 was spent by the writer
in a cruise which included visits to the Orkney
and Shetland Islands, a portion of the west
coast of Norway, Iceland, and the Gulf of St.
Lawrence. It has been represented to him by some mem
bers of the New York Yacht Club in whose
judgment he has confidence, that, because of the
scarcity of similar experience and the lack of
easily accessible information upon the subject,
an account of the voyage would be of interest,
and possibly of value, to members of the Club
who might contemplate a similar cruise. In
accordance with that suggestion, and relying
upon that judgment, these pages have been
written. The spring and summer of the previous year
had been spent in a very satisfactory cruise in
the Mediterranean, and the ease and security
with which the yacht had met the difficulties
and dangers of a March crossing of the Atlantic
and a heavy and prolonged gale on the north
shore of Africa had inspired confidence in her
ability safely to meet the heavy weather which
was to be anticipated in high Atlantic latitudes.

The embryonal idea from which the cruise de
veloped was the wish to visit Greenland, and,
possibly, even Iceland. The first thought was
simply to extend the usual eastward cruise, to
go through the Gulf of St. Lawrence, or around
Newfoundland up to Greenland, and thence to
Iceland, if conditions should favor it. But in
quiry of those trading with Greenland showed
that no such trip could be made before August,
because of the ice which lines the coast. It ap
pears that the southerly ocean current from
the Arctic brings field-ice down the eastern
coast of Greenland, around its southern end, and
then northerly along its west coast, to turn
again and come down the eastern coast of Lab
rador. This lasts until some time in August,
and the amount of ice is so large that a vessel
seeking to make a Greenland port must be pre
pared to force its way through a field twenty
miles wide, and solid enough at times to im
prison it. One of our sailors told me that in a
recent trip to Julianshaab his vessel had been
thus caught and carried upon the rocks, with
the loss of her false keel and rudder.
Moreover, I was told by the agents of a line
trading with Julianshaab that strangers were
not permitted to land there without special per
mission from the Danish Government, and this
statement was confirmed on application to the
Danish Consulate, with the addition that such
permission was very rarely granted. I asked

for a permit through our State Department, in
case we should be in need of food, water, or coal,
but it was refused on the ground that the sup
plies were sufficient only for the needs of the
natives. It was added that, if we should be
driven in by stress of weather, no objection
would be made to our landing.
As for the Strait of Belle Isle, it appeared that
it could not be depended upon to be free of ice
before the middle of July, and that field-ice
would probably be found outside in consider
able quantities into August.
It was plain, therefore, that the proposed
visit to Greenland could not be made until late
in August, if at all, — too late to permit an
extension of the voyage to Iceland, and that,
therefore, Iceland must be visited first. From
that it was simple to change the plan to a
straight rush across the Atlantic to England
and a return by way of Iceland, with a loop to
Norway and the Orkney, Shetland, and Faroe
Islands, to add interest and variety.
The Boat
The yacht, Fleur-de-Lys, is a schooner, 86^
feet on the water-line, 108 over all, 13.6 draft,
86 net tonnage, and carries 30 tons of lead in
her keel and twenty tons inside. Although
built for cruising, she is heavily sparred, with a
main boom 56 feet long; but it was not deemed
necessary to reduce the rig or make any special 3

provision for heavy weather beyond supplying a
storm-spinnaker to aid her in running and make
the steering easier. It was made of No. 2 can
vas, was 30 feet on the foot, and extended to the
crosstrees. It proved very satisfactory on the
few occasions that arose for its use. The only
difficulty was in stowing the boom. It was too
short to be carried upright before the mast, and
therefore had to be stowed horizontally beside
the fore-stay, or unshipped and lashed on the
deck. On another occasion I think I should
use the regular boom, notwithstanding its 20-
foot excess of length. If well guyed up I think
it would not trip.
The main trysail was used a great deal, more
than was necessary, I think. The officers were
anxious about the main boom, and seized every
excuse to get it inboard and securely lashed.
Our best day's run — 274 miles — was made with
the trysail and the wind on the quarter. I
think that more sail might have been safely
and comfortably carried, and the run consider
ably increased thereby. And so, too, on many
other occasions the exhibition of more enterprise
would, I believe, have materially aided our prog
ress. The main preoccupation of the sailing
master of a yacht seems to be not merely to keep
out of trouble and avoid all accidents, but also
to maintain a margin of safety far in excess of
reasonable demand. In ordinary summer sail
ing — short trips from port to port, — the disad-

vantages are not very serious; but bn long
voyages, with unfavorable weather, it may be
come very disheartening.
A 3-horse power alco-vapor launch was car
ried. It was useful in making minor excursions
and occasionally in towing, which latter it
could do at the rate of one or two miles an hour,
either by a line ahead or made fast alongside.
The crew consisted of two officers, eight men,
a steward-cook, and a cabin-boy. They were
regularly articled. The officers were American,
the sailors all Scandinavians ; three were allowed
to leave at Bergen, and their places were easily
filled there.
There were three in the cabin, two of them
ladies; and a gentleman joined us for the month
in Scotland and Norway.
It was planned to supply the boat with all
that would be needed throughout the trip, ex
cept the fresh meat and vegetables, which could
be obtained at the various ports of call. No ice
was carried, and there was no provision for
making it. One ton of coal and about five tons
of water were carried. From the list given in
the Appendix I have excluded most of what was
brought back, so that it practically represents
what was actually used. The weather was so
cool that we were able to keep meat fresh on
deck for six or seven days at a time, while on
the other side and returning, so that not so much
of the canned meats was consumed as had been

anticipated. The canned chicken and turkey
were not much liked ; and we used only half of
the roast beef and mutton carried. At Gibral
tar, in 1 90 1, we got canned chicken and turkey
that were very good. It was the Cumberland
Roast Chicken (or turkey), Portland Packing
Company, Portland, Me. The soups were ex
cellent, and Menier's chocolate was in great
demand between meals and as a lunch at night
when on deck. Peanuts, roasted as required,
were so highly esteemed that the exhaustion of
the stock seemed almost a calamity. In the
items of the list the cost is given where the
amount in pounds or packages cannot be deter
mined from the bill. St. Charles evaporated
cream was very satisfactory.
At Leith we obtained four dozen cans of as
paragus and two of chicken ; and we had to get
additional butter and lard and, I think, pilot
bread at Cape Breton. Additional bottled
water for the cabin — usually ApoUinaris — was
got by the way, — about four dozen quarts.
There was plenty to be had at Bergen. Fresh
meat and vegetables were easily obtained every
where except in Iceland; there beef and mutton,
cheap, but not very good, could be had in any
reasonable quantity, but there were no vege
tables. English canned meats could be had
there, but they did not look attractive.
Coal was taken on at Leith, but it was so
smoky that I threw it all out at Bergen and got
6

some in its place which was said to be much
better; little was gained by the change. The
coal taken on at Cape Breton smoked profusely.
Across the Atlantic
The plan was to steer for the English Channel,
and to touch at Brest if convenient. If forced
to the southward, we would make the Azores on
the way.
We sailed from Tompkinsville, Staten Island,
at i p.m., May 22d, with a fresh southerly breeze,
which freshened so much after the bar had been
crossed, with a heavy S.E. sea, that the outer
jib and mainsail were furled and the main try
sail set. Officers and crew were new to the
boat, and it took some time for them to learn
her capabilities. She was sailed cautiously
throughout the voyage; instead of reefing the
mainsail when it was necessary to shorten sail,
it was usually furled and the trysail set, and the
same was done when there was heavy pitching.
During the first week the wind held between S.
and S.W., with an occasional shift to S.S.E; and
at the end of the week at noon we had made
1360 knots from the New York lightship, fol
lowing the southerly outbound steamer course.
There was some sea-sickness in the party
during the first two days, but that passed and
the weather and conditions were all that could
be desired.
During the second week the sea was smooth, 7

the sky clear, the winds light and in the S.E.
quadrant, drawing for two days so far to the
eastward that we ran two or three points off the
course to the northward. The week's run was
933 miles; and our position at its end, 490 2' N.,
25° 16' E.
In the third week the winds were for the first
time northerly, from N.W. to E.N.E., and light.
On Wednesday, 1 ith June, at noon, we were off
Ushant, to the west (3097 miles, twenty days),
and hoped to enter the harbor of Brest in the
evening; but the wind shifted from S.W. to S.E.
and increased, the barometer fell rapidly, and by
8 p.m., while in sight of the lights, we were hove-
to on the port tack in a heavy gale and high sea.
The gale lasted all night and ended suddenly in
a fiat calm at 6 a.m. During the mid-watch the
ship had been run to the westward. The barom
eter fell from 29.80 at 8 a.m. on the nth, to
29.28 at 6 a.m. on the 12th, and rose to 29.55
by 8 p.m. The calm lasted until noon, then a
light wind set in from the N.W. and we again
steered for Brest, distant fifty miles E.S.E. mag.
The wind slowly freshened and became a heavy
gale by 8 p.m.; we hove-to on the starboard
tack under trysail and staysail, and at midnight
set the double-reefed foresail so as surely to
headreach past the Chausse'e de Sein, toward
which I feared our drift might have been greater
than was estimated.
At 4 a.m., 13th June, we went about to the

northward; by 8 a.m. the reefs were taken out
of the foresail and the jib was set, and the
barometer had risen to 29.80. As the wind was
strong and the sea heavy, I decided not to enter
the harbor, and to go on to Southampton. At
n a.m. we weathered Ushant, eased the sheets,
and set the foretopsail. The run up the Chan
nel was without incident ; and at six the next
morning (June 14th) we took a pilot off the
Needles — two hundred miles in nineteen hours.
The pilot, who proved not to know this part
of his business, said we must anchor off Netley
and there await the visit of the Health Officer.
After having waited in vain until 2 p.m., we
moved up to the anchorage near the town, and
were there told by the officers that that was
where they made their visits. Technically, an
off-shore Isle of Wight pilot does not take a
ship above Leep, — that is left for a Southampton
pilot ; but in the absence of the latter the former
may continue, and collect the inside pilotage as
well as his own. My intention had been to stop
at Cowes, but the pilot declared its anchorage
to be exposed and rough, and said Southampton
was much to be preferred. I had reason after
ward to think his judgment at fault. The an
chorage at Southampton was narrow and
crowded, and a southerly wind made the boat
service as uncomfortable as it could have been
at Cowes. Towage charges were exceptionally
high, and the service was dilatory. The

Government collected a lighthouse charge of $22,
good for twelve months throughout Great Britain.
Southampton to Leith
The boat lay at Southampton until the 20th
June, when we towed down the river and across
the flats to the East Bramble buoy; and then
with a southeasterly wind beat out to the east
ward of the Isle of Wight, on our way to Dover.
The night was clear, the wind fresh and favor
able, and at nine o'clock the next morning we
were off Dover. I stood off and on until noon
in order to see the start of the Heligoland race,
and accompanied the yachts for twelve or fif
teen miles, and then came back to Dover, an
choring within the piers and towing into the
Granville dock at midnight.
The rise and fall of the tide" is great, and the
anchorage space between the piers scanty. Un
less one goes into the basin, it would be bet
ter, I think, to use the outside anchorage to
the eastward of the piers. I observed that the
yachts did this. The charge for the use of the
basin was 18 shillings — about 2 \d. per ton; that
for towing into it was £2 10s.
June 30th, we left Dover, towing out with our
launch in the early morning. The wind was
light and variable, but the tide was running
east and then northward into the Downs. We
beat slowly to the north between the land and
the Goodwin shoals, and during the night got

well off to the northeastward; the next day
the weather conditions were about the same —
light northerly airs with rain and fog; and on
July 2d we had a hard blow from the north with
a nasty short sea, full-and-by all day and the
next night. I had been strongly advised by
some English yachtsmen not to go through the
North Sea, because of the lack of good harbors,
and had felt some uneasiness all the time we
were working out of the narrow southwest bight
lest the weather should turn seriously against.
us. The region surely is full of dangers, but the
coasts are well lighted and the channels plenti
fully and clearly buoyed, and vessels were much
less numerous than I had anticipated. The
water is shoal, especially on and near the Dogger
bank, and the sea consequently very uncom
fortable in a blow, so much so, indeed, that the
cabin suffered a second (and last) brief attack
of sea-sickness, which perhaps was chargeable as
much to the fortnight spent in Paris as to the
exceptional traits of the North Sea.
Early on the morning of July 4th, four days.
from Dover, we passed St. Abbs, stood across;
the mouth of the Firth and beat up to Leith
Roads in a moderate fog and without a pilot,
anchoring a little west of the pier at 2 p.m. The
passage is broad, the shores clear, and all ob
stacles clearly buoyed, so that there was na
difficulty in reaching the spacious anchorage.
The landing is made at stages within the piers;

no custom-house formalities for small baggage;
a railway station for Edinburgh within one hun
dred yards of the gate of the enclosure. Official
standard time can be got at several watch
makers on Princes Street.
Orkney and Shetland Islands
We left Leith, July 7th, in the afternoon, with
a strong westerly breeze, which lasted until noon
the next day, when we were well past Peterhead.
It then fell calm for two or three hours, and this
was followed by a light air from the S.E., which
freshened moderately and lasted through the
night, so that in the morning Copinsay Island
was in sight on the port bow. The wind held
fresh in the S.E.; we passed Mull Head at
9.30, ran westward through the Sound against
the tide, and anchored in Kirkwall harbor at
11.30. A moderate specimen of the "roosts,"
of which so much is said in the Coast Pilots, was
encountered in the Sound; the waves were ir
regular and large enough to be troublesome to
a small boat, but gave us no inconvenience.
The harbor is of easy approach, the only ob
stacle at all prominent being a sand-spit which
has to be turned at right angles as the harbor is
entered. The harbor is roomy, the anchorage
good. The charts were obtained in London, and
made it easy to dispense with a pilot.
I had thought of running into the Firth of
Moray and visiting Inverness and its neighbor-

hood in case the wind was contrary, and also
canvassed a trip through Pentland Firth to the
Hebrides. I was informed that we could pass
through the Caledonian Canal and thus easily
visit the west coast of Scotland. Much of the
sixty miles of the canal is composed of large
lochs, through which a yacht can sail, but the
canal portion needs steam or a tow, and the lat
ter, I was told, is not easily obtained. The
account given in the Pilot of the navigation of
the Pentland Firth is of a character to deter a
traveller for pleasure, but its appearance as we
crossed before it was placid enough for any one,
and I imagine that its passage in summer would
ordinarily be simple. I noticed sailing vessels
in it at the time, and doubt if the "roosts" are
much worse than those we encountered in ap
proaching Kirkwall. Small steamboats traverse
it daily, plying between the mainland and two
or three of the Orkney towns.
The Orkney country is hilly and rolling, with
great rocky cliffs in the distance, and almost
treeless ; a small grove in a sheltered ravine just
outside Kirkwall was pointed out as the only
one on the island.
Kirkwall is a small, clean town, with two in
teresting old buildings, St. Magnus Cathedral
and the Earl's Palace, associated with Sir Wal
ter Scott's novel, The Pirate; a clean little hotel,
and carriages for driving to places of interest in
the neighborhood. 13

The afternoon was spent in a drive to an old
tumulus, Maeshowe, opened a few years ago, and
the Standing stones of Stenness, some ten miles
distant. The road was good and the grades
easy, but as the distant views were dimmed by
a light rain, there was little to please the eye or
attract notice.
Maeshowe is a conical mound, about thirty
yards in diameter and ten in height, amid sur
roundings that plainly suggest its artificial
character. A small entrance lined with stone
slabs opens into a low, stone-lined passageway
which leads to a central dome-shaped chamber
fifteen feet square and high, paved and lined
with great stone slabs, and having three re
cesses which open a little above the floor and
are about six feet in length and three or four
in height and width. Runic characters are
scratched upon the walls in several places. The
age and purpose of the structure are unknown,
beyond the fact that it dates back at least a
thousand years. Hillocks of similar appearance
exist, but no other has been excavated. ,
The stones of Stenness are like those of Stone-
henge and Brittany, — a dozen great stone slabs
standing, and as many more prostrate, in a
circle about 350 feet in diameter, gray, chipped,
and weather-beaten. The Pictish tower
("Brough") on the island of Burray we left un-
visited, because of the much finer one we hoped
to see in Shetland.
14

The drive accomplished and the church and
palace visited, there was nothing to tempt us
to a longer stay ashore, although the daylight
lasted through the night, and so we returned to
the yacht. The next day a strong N.E. blow,
with rain, kept us prudently at anchor, for it
would have been dead ahead; but by the after
noon of the nth it had so far shifted to the
west that we got under way for Shetland, and
after rounding Anskerry had a broad reach
across the sixty or seventy miles of open ocean
which separated us from Sumburgh and Fitful
Head, the southernmost headland of the Shet-
lands. Fair Isle, lying midway, was passed
close by, though a head sea left by the previous
blow made some of the party careless of the view.
" An she be not fair to me,
What care I how fair she be."
was quoted with feeling.
It is an island to look at, but from a prudent
distance. Sheer rocky walls, with only a rare
slope and bit of beach to suggest a possible
landing; a green, rolling plateau above, no sign
of life beyond a few sheep, innumerable gulls,
and the two lighthouses — at this season almost
superfluous. Those poor Spaniards — flotsam
and jetsam of the Grand Armada— who escaped
to its rocks from the wave that wrecked their
ship must at times have doubted if they were
more fortunate than their shipmates who were
held by the sea. 15

North of the island we ran through a fishing
fleet just turning for home, — strong, able-look
ing boats, and speedy. Fitful Head was plainly
visible (8.30 p.m.); at 10.15 tne lamp on Sum-
burgh was lighted, and at 1 1 we were abreast of
it — eight and a half hours from the anchorage
at Kirkwall.
Lerwick lies on the east side, about twenty
miles north of Sumburgh, on a strait sheltered
by the island of Bressay and open to the north
and south. The run up the coast in the lee of
the island was soon made, and after standing
off and on for a little while, waiting for full day
light, we ran in and anchored at 3 o'clock. The
harbor is large and well sheltered, and was filled
with vessels, sail and steam, most of them en
gaged in the fishing trade — the one great indus
try of the region. Its entrance is narrow, with
a turn, but still wide enough, I think, to be
traversed even with a headwind. As the shores
are high and steep, easterly and westerly winds
lose much of their force.
The town of Lerwick, with four or five thou
sand inhabitants, several banks, and telegraphic
connection, is a fairly clean, prosperous-looking
place, with some fine public buildings and
grounds, and stores at which apparently any
needed supplies could be obtained. It is evi
dently visited by many tourists and is equipped
to meet their wants. Many excursions by land
and water can be made. Our only trip was to
16

the Pictish tower ("Brough") of Mousa, fifteen
miles distant to the south. The drive took us
along the hills above the shore, through a rather
dreary peat-covered country showing but little
vegetation or cultivation. At Sandwick we took
a small boat and sailed across to the island upon
which the tower is situated, — a circular tower,
fifty feet across and forty high, built of flat
stones laid without mortar, and possessing no
windows and only one door. The latter opens
into an uncovered central space, and within the
thick wall is a passage-way leading to the top,
lighted by occasional openings upon the central
space, and opening here and there into recesses
within the substance of the wall. Its age and
purpose are unknown, but presumably it was a
place of refuge for person and property. The
remains of others, much less well preserved, are
to be seen on the island, one of them close by
Lerwick. In situation and appearance they re
call the innumerable stone towers — watch towers
so called — on the coasts of the Mediterranean.
July 13th, at 7 a.m., weighed anchor and
sailed for Bergen, passing out of the harbor to
the southward. There was a light easterly wind,
almost dead ahead, which fell to a flat calm late
in the afternoon. The temperature of the air was
540, of the water, 520. The next day the wind
was light, between N.E. and S.E. ; the sky clear
and the sea smooth. The Norway coast was
sighted in the evening about fifty miles distant ;
17

and at 5 a.m., July 15th, we took a pilot who
came off from a station on the north shore of
Kors Fiord, Marsden lighthouse on the south
side being then abeam. The wind was fresh and
fair, and we anchored at Bergen at 9 a.m.
The passage to Bergen by the Kors Fiord —
the South Lead — is broad and deep, the
shores steep-to, the obstacles visible and well
marked. The only narrow place which presents
any difficulty is the Watte-strom, about four
miles from Bergen, through which the tide runs
swiftly. We passed through it three times, once
with a headwind and opposing tide; and I see
no reason why a ship-master, supplied with
the excellent Norwegian charts, should hesitate
to make the trip without a pilot in fair weather.
The North Lead, also, by Helliso, is broad and
clear. We came out by it without a pilot and
at night, after towing for the first six or seven
miles from Bergen.
The harbor of Bergen is well sheltered except
from the north, but very deep. We anchored in
thirty fathoms, farther out, I think, than was at
all necessary. The next time we visited the
port the wind failed, and we anchored in ten or
twelve fathoms, close to the west shore, just
outside the main harbor, so close, indeed, that a
stern-line was run to the shore. On the third
visit we anchored well in, near the point of
Sydnas, in eight or ten fathoms.
At Bergen all supplies can be had, and even
18

extensive repairs made to machinery or iron
ships, but the coal is bad. English-speaking
Nowegian sailors can also be had. The Ameri
can Consul, Mr. Nelsen, was very attentive and
kind. Large-scale Norwegian charts can be had
at a large book-store in the Strand Gade, near
the Torv. A time-ball is dropped once or twice
a week, but there seemed to be reason to doubt
its entire accuracy.
Norway
A fortnight was spent in Norway, visiting the
Hardanger Fiord, south of Bergen (lat., 6o°),
and the Sogne Fiord, Froj Fiord, and the western
end of the Nord Fiord (lat., 620) to the north,
and returning to Bergen outside. The plan had
been to continue north to Trondhjem, but the
weather was so threatening when we left the
Nord Fiord — very low barometer and rising N.E.
wind — that it was thought best to run back to
Bergen instead of trying to beat around Statt-
land to Aalesund. The distance sailed inside —
in the fiords and behind the islands — was about
five hundred miles. There was a fair sailing
breeze most of the time, except in the high-
banked narrow terminals of the Hardanger and
Sogne fiords. Thus we spent a day sailing half
way up the Sor Fiord (Hardanger) and back,
perhaps twenty miles ; but the weather was de
lightful, the natives rowed out to visit us, and
we rejoiced in the opportunity to enjoy the
19

grand scenery, with the certainty of remember
ing it better than if we were running by it at
twelve knots. In some places we took the
launch and ran up into the terminal and small
fiords, while the yacht was anchored or standing
off and on to await our return.
The water is deep — hundreds of fathoms — and
the shores so steep that almost everywhere a
ship would take bottom first with the end of her
jibboom; we had twice to get the dinghy out
to avoid such contact ourselves when we were
drifting through the very narrow Loksund.
Good anchorages are very infrequent; they
are found almost exclusively far up at the ends
of the narrow fiords into which streams empty,
but there are a number of slight bights, or scal
lops, in the mountainsides where a rare slope or a
submerged shelf has collected sand at an anchor
ing depth. They would not be safe in a blow,
but would do to pass a quiet night. At one
such, while our anchor was almost straight
down under the bow in ten or twelve fathoms,
the stern swung so that it overlapped a small
landing-place and we had to haul it aside with a
mooring line. All these places are marked on
the chart and described in the Norway Pilot. In
the Hardanger trip we anchored one night at
Nymark, in the Loksund, and one at Utne, at
the entrance of the Sor Fiord; and spent two
nights under way. In the Sogne Fiord we an
chored at Balestrand, in the little Ese Fiord, a

well sheltered, good anchorage by a village,
from which we made a trip in the launch up the
Fjarlands Fiord toward the great Jostedalsbrae
glacier. A breeze coming in the afternoon , we ran
eastward ; and after dinner took the launch to
the Ncero Fiord, and started westward again at io
p.m. There were some squalls, with rain, during
the night and the next morning, and the pilot
wished to anchor again at Balestrand, but we con
tinued to beat to the westward without difficulty.
Well up in the fiords, among the mountains,
the squalls were not troublesome; they were
sharp but regular, moving straight up and down
the water-way, and neither violent nor varying
in direction. There was nothing about them
that was not easy to meet, and there was plenty
of room. Probably that day was as bad a one,
in respect of wind, as one is likely to encounter
there in the summer, and it gave us no trouble.
We beat under mainsail, staysail, and jib. Late
in the day, after we had returned to the neigh
borhood of the coast and sought to pass from
the Sogne Fiord northward, we had to run
through the lee of Losneo, a great, bare, rocky
cliff, one thousand or fifteen hundred feet high,
and through the narrow Tollesund, and found it
somewhat like weathering the "Flatiron" in a
northeaster. The wind slapped us first on one
side and then on the other ; but we got through
safely in a few minutes and anchored for the
night at Hindo.

This was a small, unattractive anchorage in a
group of islets, perfectly well protected from the
sea, and easily reached and left in moderate
weather, although we touched lightly twice
when coming out on the prolongation of a rocky
point not fifty feet away. We were anchored
and moored to the shore and lay quiet all night,
but there was little wind. A small English
steam yacht was anchored near us, and a few
trading vessels.
The next day we ran quietly before a light
southerly wind into and through the Froj Fiord,
until we were becalmed at 6 p.m. under Hor-
nelen, a great cliff twenty-nine hundred feet high ;
we anchored and moored on the north side of
the rocky islet, Maro, just east of it, an acci
dent to the steam-gauge of the launch having
arrested an attempt to tow beyond the cliff. I
think it would have been better to have re
mained under sail and have gone out through
the Skate after the turn of the tide. There was
barely an hour of darkness during the night. The
pilot was a distinct obstacle to advance, and at
last I disregarded him entirely. Several things
which he declared impossible we found no dif
ficulty in doing. One of them was working
through the Skate Strom the next morning
against the tide and with light baffling winds.
We got into the Nord Fiord, or Vaags Fiord,
early the next morning. There was very little
wind, but the barometer was falling fast — 29.25

by noon. There was an anchorage in sight on
the north side, but it was not a good one, and,
after weighing the chances of standing off and
on within the fiord during the approaching gale,
I decided to go out to sea and run before it back
to Bergen. The wind slowly freshened, and by
six o'clock the gale — N.N.E. — was on in full
force, and we were running comfortably under
foresail and storm-spinnaker. By eleven the
light of the North Lead, Helliso, was in sight;
but the weather was thick, the pilot scared,
and the passage new to us, so I determined
to keep on to the South Lead, thirty-five miles
farther, which we knew well. Having made the
distance, we hove to at 3 a.m. on the starboard
tack, and waited for light, for it was thick
and raining. In the morning, although it was
still quite thick, we ran in without trouble and
beat up to Bergen (July 28th). The pilot was of
no assistance in making the entrance; he could
not recognize the land after it was sighted (we
had kept an offing of twenty miles), and we had
to pick up the entrance ourselves.
The ten days we spent in the fiords were de
lightful; we were constantly in the presence of
grand scenery which we could enjoy leisurely,
and, although the vagaries of the weather
brought some delays, the trip was made with
more expedition, regularity, and success than
had been expected. It was only in the small
terminal fiords that the lack of steam-power was
23

felt; with most of those we had to be content
with simply looking in as we passed, others were
visited in the launch. The novelty of the en
vironment, the contrast with that of the weeks
that had preceded and those that were to follow,
stimulated interest and excited the imagination.
There was all the pleasure of travelling, and with
it all the comfort of home. No study of time
tables, no packing and repacking, no haste lest
we should be forgotten, no doubt or distrust of
accommodations. We made no schedules, but
waited on the wind and were satisfied.
Perhaps the most novel and striking experi
ence of the trip was the passage through the
narrow, wooded Loksund (lat., 6o° 02'), on the
way to the Hardanger Fiord. It is about five
miles long, and for a mile near the centre only
about two hundred yards wide. The sides are
high and thickly wooded, and as it lies north and
south the prevalent winds are but slightly felt
within it. We entered it at 10 p.m. with a rush
which carried us along to the narrowest part;
then, the wind entirely failing, the slight current
set us back and swung the ship across the pas
sage, so that -a boat had to be put out with a
line from the jibboom to keep it from fouling the
trees. As the launch was temporarily unavail
able, the men were put into the boats to tow us
through, and, aided by an occasional draft of
air, we reached an anchorage in the wider water
beyond at two in the morning. It was like an
24

evening in the Adirondacks, and as little like-
yachting as can well be imagined.
The Faroes and Iceland j
After having waited three days in Bergen for
the return of letters from Trondhjem, we left
at 5 p.m., 31st July, under tow, by the North
Lead. The wind was from the north, the sea
heavy, and the tug light, and our progress was
so slow that at eight o'clock we cast off the line
opposite the north end of Tofto. The sky was
overcast, but the twilight lasted until after ten
o'clock; and at 1.30 a.m., August ist, we passed
out, Helliso Light bearing N.E. a mile distant.
On the southerly side of the pass are unbuoyed
reefs, — some above, some below water, — which,
however, can be easily avoided by keeping well
to the north side. The pass is nearly two miles
wide. The Faroes, lying almost due west and about
- Murray's or Baedeker's Denmark contains an ac
count of Iceland. The Sportsman's and Tourist's
Handbook to Iceland (G. V. Turnbull & Co., Leith) is
more detailed and contains a steamer sailing list for
the year. Encyclopasdia Britannica; Dufferin, Letters
from High Latitudes ; Norris, The Saga Library; Norris,.
Sigurd the Wolsung; Dasent, The Burnt Njal; Press,.
Laxdale Saga.
For navigation: The Icelandic Pilot and Currents,
Ice, and Magnetism on the Coast of Iceland, by Lieut.
C. F. Wandel. These can be obtained in London,
from Potter, 145 Minories; or Hughes, 59 Fenchurch,
Street. 25

320 miles distant, were reached shortly after
noon on the 3d August; that is, the land was
sighted, through the mist and rain, a few miles
away. The trip across had not been ideal, for
the sky was overcast, the sea gray, the wind
when not ahead was light. The temperature of
the air varied from 520 to 590, and that of the
water from 49° to 530.
It was so wet, and the clouds hung so low
upon the mountains, that it was evident little
pleasure could be got by landing, not to speak of
the reluctance felt to leave the boat amid sur
roundings that might call for prompt action.
There is a roadstead — Thorshaven — on the east
ern side, which is partly sheltered by an outlying
island, and which is the port of call for the
steamers plying between Denmark and Iceland.
The officers of an English gunboat, met subse
quently at Reykiavik, told me they had been
obliged several times to leave the anchorage in
easterly blows and get out to sea. We con
tented ourselves with what could be seen "from
the boat," — a formula which had done much
service, — and spent the afternoon in working
around the northeasterly corner — the island of
Fuglo — against the wind and a tide which, in its
strength and roughness of surface, recalled the
dreaded "roosts" of the Orkneys and Shetlands.
The island was a sheer, black cliff, a thousand
feet or more in height, against which the great
rollers broke with a sullen rush which warned
26

us to hold our luff very closely, and reduced our
curiosity as to details to the vanishing point.
The gale, never very heavy, blew itself out be
fore morning; the next day was quiet, with
whales about us, and a splendid sunset; and at
noon of the 5th August, after a night of calm,
Iceland was sighted seventy miles away. The
temperature of the air and water had fallen to
430 and 410; the barometer was high (30.20),
the wind light and variable. A few French
fishing boats and an occasional whale gave vari
ety and interest to the tranquil scene. The
next day was spent slowly sagging along the
eastern coast of Iceland, in full sight of the snow-
covered mountains, which in that atmosphere
can be clearly seen at great distances ; and in the
evening we finally rounded Langaness, the north
eastern corner, — again, of course, against wind
and tide, — and soon crossed the Arctic circle.
For the opposing current we had only ourselves
to blame, for it runs constantly around the is
land in the direction of the movement of the
hands of a watch, — that is, northward on the
west coast, eastward on the north, and south
ward on the east. On the west coast it is at
times very strong (sixteen knots, according to
Lieutenant Wandel J), and we logged fifty-two
miles one day while passing twelve on the land,
though a portion of that was due to tacking,
1 Currents, Ice, and Magnetism, Iceland. London,
1896. 27

since the course could not be quite laid. On the
north coast it was not strong, but it ran hard
around the promontory of Langaness ; and appar
ently it varied in strength with the tide, in
creasing with the flood and diminishing or ceasing
with the ebb.
Along the north coast we had variable weather ;
the wind was generally in the west and at times
there was fog. The temperature of the air
ranged between 400 and 530, that of the water
about 460. Ice-blink was visible in the north,
and we learned afterward that the ice had re
mained unusually far to the south. There were
a good many fishing boats about, large numbers
of ducks and gulls, and a few seals and whales.
Much of the time the coast was hidden or ob
scured by fog or clouds; but every night was
clear, with grand views of the mountains and
great snow-fields and glaciers.
We had thought of stopping at Husavik for a
trip in the interior, but decided against it for the
same reason that kept us away from Thorshaven
in the Faroes. It was a grievous disappoint
ment at the time to some of the party, — for the
scenery of the region is said to be very impres
sive, — but all rejoiced in the decision after our
experience of the trials of the Thingvalla-Geysir
trip. The officers of the English gunboat, which
is stationed about Iceland all summer to care for
the fishermen, said they never ventured to lie
at Husavik for more than a short stay. They
28

said Akureyre, in the neighboring Oe Fiord has,
a good anchorage, but cannot easily be reached
without steam.
We looked into the Sigle Fiord in hope of find
ing the mail steamer there, but did not enter.
It seems to be well protected by a sand-bar
reaching across the mouth, and several fishing
vessels were at anchor within it ; but the little
village would probably be of no use in the mat
ter of supplies or as a starting-point for an
excursion. Akureyre would probably be the
best point for those wishing to visit the Detti-
foss and neighboring regions, although a longer
journey on land is necessary than in starting
from Husavik, and that is a serious matter, be
cause of the lack of facilities and even of ordinary
comforts. The northwestern corner is a great rocky
promontory, on which lies the Drange Jokull, a
mountain about three thousand feet high, cov
ered with snow, which spreads out on all sides to
form a vast snow-field or glacier. It supplies
many beautiful views, particularly in the even
ing. Our passage around it (August 9th) was
slow; the morning was bright and warm, with
barely wind enough to stem the current; but
in the afternoon the wind freshened and drew
ahead, and by bedtime we were opposite Asa
Fiord. The next two days were spent beating
to the southward against a strong current, with
fog and rain, which would from time to time
29

permit views of the mountains. Late at night
and early in the morning, the snow mountains
showed beautifully. The late afternoon of the
second day saw us past Snaefields and entering
Faxe Bay; and on the morning of the 12th
August, with a clear sky, smooth sea, and light
breeze, we ran up to Reykiavik and anchored.
The Icelandic Pilot and Lieutenant Wandel
describe the northerly current on the west side
as running with great force and roughness off
Staalbjerg Huk for a width of three or four miles
off the land, being influenced there by the set
out of Brede Bay. When opposed by a strong
northerly wind, they say the water is broken and
dangerous for open boats. Because of this cur
rent, the flood-tide, which runs to the north, is
much stronger and more prolonged than the
ebb, and consequently in dead reckoning a large
northerly allowance must be made. This was
confirmed by our experience above mentioned, —
fifty-two miles by log while passing twelve miles
of the shore of this promontory.
The harbor of Reykiavik is well sheltered,
easily approached, and roomy enough. It
should be entered by passing south along the
west side of the little island, Engey. Fairly
good fresh beef and mutton can be bought, and
fish can be caught over the rail. Imported
flour and canned goods can be had at the stores,
and coal. There is no telegraphic communica
tion with Europe, but it was stated that a wire-
30

less outfit was soon to be set up. The mail
comes about once a month ; and there is a bank
where probably money could be got on a letter
of credit.
The town, built on the hillside adjoining the
beach, has many of the features of a frontier
village. The dull level of uniformity, the round-
ing-off of points of individuality, which in
creasing ease of communication is producing
elsewhere, we found even here on the edge of the
Arctic Ocean. Derby hats, shirts opening down
the back, ready-made neckties, and sweaters
abounded. Even the women showed only an
occasional maintenance of a national head-dress.
The older houses are of wood or stucco, but for
the last twenty years they have been building
largely with sheets of corrugated iron brought
from England. The shop-windows are occupied
by the commonest and cheapest machine-made
articles from Europe and America. In one I
saw the obtrusive, brazen horns of six grapho-
phones. How they must add to the gloom of
the long winter nights ! Such stock of old silver
and carved wood as may have once existed has
long since been swept away by the tourist tide,
and there is nothing left to tempt even the
feminine fancy. Even the little museum has
only some saddles and bridles and bits of furni
ture and household utensils.
The two places of interest, which every self-
respecting tourist must see, are the plain of
31

Thingvalla and the Geysir, the spouting spring
which, with one slight orthographic change, has
given its name to the class. The first is forty
miles distant from Reykiavik, and the second
forty miles beyond the first ; but that statement
needs much amplification before an adequate
idea can be gained of what one must go through
to visit them. Until quite recently there were
no roads in Iceland, and consequently no car
riages. There is now one road, — to Thingvalla,
— and we saw two carriages. One was private,
the other became ours temporarily for a modest
consideration. The people go about on horse
back — men, women, and children. Every farm
had its herd of ponies, and, so far as I could see,
the farmers worked only to raise hay to keep the
ponies alive. The omphalon of Iceland is the
pony. If anything is to be done, a pony must
be had, and two or three more to help him. He
is a rough little beast, with a big head, a shaggy
mane, and a will of his own, but amiable withal.
He knows where every patch of grass is to be
met, and he claims and exercises his right to
lunch at it. But after you have seen his menu
for the evening, you do not grudge him the
stops by the way. Each traveller has two, his
guide has two, and the boy who conducts the
spare ones has two; in addition there are those
which carry the baggage. We were three; our
herd numbered twelve. The spare ones and the
baggage-carriers, without even a halter on them,
32

take the road on the run, with the boy shouting
and cracking a great whip behind them. He
takes it out in cracking the whip, for I never
saw him strike one, even when he had to ride
far and fast to turn some rebel back to the path
of duty, or force a straggler from some moss-
covered stone or other enticing tidbit.
Our visit to Thingvalla and the Geysir occu
pied five days, four spent on the road and one
resting at the Geysir. The carriage was an
open, low-cut vehicle like a Paris cab, with com
fortable places for two on the back seat, and un
comfortable ones for two more facing them.
Thingvalla, forty miles distant on a good road,
was reached in about eight hours, including a
long stop for lunch at a farmhouse. The bag
gage, consisting mainly of food and dishes, — but
little of which was really needed, — was carried
in boxes on two horses, each horse carrying about
fifty pounds. The jolting, of course, is hard and
persistent, and makes careful packing necessary.
Our crackers were promptly reduced wholly to
impalpable powder, which penetrated every
article accompanying them, in spite even of free
admixture with the contents of the whisky
bottle, the latter a loss which was severely felt
on arrival at the Geysir, for the exhaustion of
the ladies was complete.
The first day's ride was across a great barren
lava plateau, with sharply scarped mountains
on the north, and occasional glimpses of snow
33

peaks and fields beyond. Two or three farms
were passed in the first fifteen miles, but beyond
that all was barren and desolate until we stood
on the brink overlooking the Thingvalla plain.
There was not a tree to be seen — for the best of
all reasons — and only here and there a patch of
grass. The plain is covered with blocks of lava,
amid which is a scanty herbage on which a few
sheep are fed. The sky was bright, the air in
comparably clear and stimulating, the tempera
ture comfortable — probably between 500 and
6o°. The scenery, neither particularly grand
nor beautiful, was yet novel and interesting
because of its color, formation, and barrenness.
Some patches of green on the precipitous moun
tainsides looked like vegetation, but the guide
said the color was of the rock.
We saw no crops cultivated but grass, and
were told that no cereal is raised in the country
except a little barley. Potatoes, turnips, and
carrots are grown.
The farms had usually one house, partly built
of wood, and numerous huts looking like caves,
in which the hay is stored and some of the people
sleep. These huts are built of lava blocks to
the height of a few feet, and are covered in with
a thick, rounded roof, made of many layers of
slabs of turf. The furniture of the houses was
rude and scanty. A night to be spent in one
could not easily be contemplated with equanim
ity. Where we lunched they gave us good
34

coffee, 'milk, and eggs, and a kind of pot-cheese
which the ladies refused, because they thought it
tasted of fish and kerosene, but I ate it freely.
Thingvalla has historical and topographical
interest and, what seemed at the time more im
portant, a decent little inn. It is a lava plain,
five by three miles, depressed about one hundred
feet by a sudden subsidence, which has left a
sheer wall on each side where the break oc
curred. On the plain are many rifts or cracks,
most of them containing water, apparently in
communication with the great lake on the south.
The inn is a one-story wooden house. The
entire width at the centre is taken by a square
room, which serves as a dining-room for the
guests and a sleeping-room for the guides ; from
it runs a corridor on each side of which are four
sleeping-rooms, about seven by five feet, each
with two bunks, one over the other. The par
titions, of a single thickness of plank, ended at
the height of the eaves, an arrangement which
promoted ventilation and acquaintance. The
furniture of each room consisted of a washstand
and a chair; but the bunks had wire mattresses,
clean sheets, and sufficient covering. The whole
building was guiltless of a drop of paint. The
food was plain, palatable, and wholesome; no
liquor of any kind was to be had. The landlord
was a young man who had spent ten years in
Winnipeg and Montana, and was about to re
turn to Canada, much to the regret of some of
35

his guests, who had recorded their feelings in
the guest -book. A glance through the pages of
that book showed how far the hotel was esteemed
by its patrons above all others in the land, one
lady comparing her return to attainment of
Walhalla. It is clearly the Waldorf-Astoria of
Iceland. If the step down to the one at
Geysir is a measure of the rate of descent be
yond, heaven help those who go farther.
The journey from Thingvalla to Geysir must
be made on horseback. The distance is forty
miles, the time about seven and a half hours in
the saddle, with two or two and a half hours for
resting and feeding the ponies on the way.
Ladies would probably find it much less fa
tiguing to ride astride ; the side-saddles are built
like a low-backed arm-chair, with a large wooden
stirrup and one small horn. The road leads for
nearly an hour across the plain, then for two
hours across a barren lava plateau, and then
down into and along the edge of a vast plain
which extends far south to the sea, and shows
here and there the steam of hot springs and
the glimmer of the tortuous river crossing it.
To the left are the mountains, and the trail
occasionally crosses a projecting foothill. We
stopped for lunch beside a lake close to the shore
of which were hot springs, in which we heated
our canned soup; at the adjoining farmhouse we
got milk, and on our return, a broiled fish. Far
ther on we passed through the "little forest"
36

which our guide had promised us the day before ;
it consisted of a tract covered with dwarf birch
and willow four or five feet high. The guide
also told us with pride that there was one tree in
Iceland twenty-eight feet high, but as it was
one hundred miles distant we could not visit it.
The trail is so narrow that travel is in single
file, and when not on the lava it is cut so deep
that your feet strike against the projecting
lumps and stones. The ponies need no guid
ance, and your time can be wholly given to en
joyment of the scenery or the relief of suffering.
In sheltered spots the small flies are innumer
able, but they do not bite. The scenery is finer
than on the first day, and snow-covered Hecla
and its two associates are in sight during the
latter half of the journey. The ride was very
trying to the ladies ; but I should think that any
man trained by daily use of the means of public
transportation in New York could make it with
out more fatigue than could be recovered from
in a day. I mean that after resting a day at
Geysir he could get back to Thingvalla.
The sights at Geysir are modest. The great
jet shows at irregular intervals, sometimes not
for two or three days, and the others are mere
sketches ; they can generally be provoked by a
diet of sod. They are all, of course, utterly in
significant in appearance beside those of the
Yellowstone, but their historic interest is great.
Across the broad plain on the edge of which they
37

lie, can be seen at times the spray of the great
waterfall, Gullfoss. A visit to it, involving a
ride of six or eight hours, is included in the itin
erary of many tourists; but I do not think our
party would have mounted a horse the next day
to see any piece of natural or unnatural scenery
in the world.
The hotel at Geysir is a corrugated iron shack
about twenty-five feet square, with four bed
rooms, each with two bunks. The food could be
eaten — some of it — but the coffee is the limit;
it is made with the water of the geyser, which,
perhaps, accounts for the flavor. It was cor
dially anathematized, in German and English,
on several pages of the hotel register.
The day was spent pleasantly enough in stroll
ing about the little place, and there was a
beautiful sunset, the peace and charm of which
was somewhat marred by the boisterous arrival
of a large native party, who came in as if the
forty-mile ride counted for nothing. Four of
them were crowded into the two bunks of one
room, and the rest disappeared, probably going
to a neighboring farmhouse.
The return trip was made more easily than we
had feared, although one of the ladies walked
the last three miles in preference to remaining
longer on the pony. The second night at Thing
valla was also made a little harder by a noisy
party of natives who seemed to know no fatigue ;
and the return to Reykiavik was made in the
38

carriage. It was a pleasure to set foot on the
deck of the yacht again.
Iceland to New York
We sailed from Reykiavik on the afternoon of
August 1 8th, headed for Greenland, Cape Fare
well. The wind was fresh in the E.S.E. and at
noon of the 21st we were within fifty miles of
the cape (550 miles from Reykiavik); but the
weather was thick and rainy and the wind had
backed to the west of north and was blowing a
gale. Nothing could be seen even if we should
run in close, and we had no heart for beating
eighty or one hundred miles northwest to Julians
haab under such conditions, so it was voted to
give Greenland the go-by and head for the
Strait of Belle Isle. It was only six hundred
miles away, but before the goal had been
reached we had travelled nearly twice that dis
tance and had consumed nine weary days. There
were head winds and gales most of the time, and
it was cold and wet. We were headed off so far
that we thought for a time we should have to go
around Cape Race; but a shift of wind sent us
back toward Belle Isle, which we finally sighted
August 30th, early in the morning. After a few
hours of calm a light easterly wind set in, and we
entered the strait at seven in the evening and
reached its westerly end at seven the next
morning. It was a great piece of good luck to
get through so easily, and I should hesitate to
39

try it again. The strait is thirty miles long and
quite narrow, with many reefs and rocks well
out from the low southern shore ; there is a good
light at each end with an interval of about five
miles between their arcs of visibility. Running
free in clear weather a safe course through can
be laid by them, but it would be dangerous to
have to beat through by night or in thick
weather. I learned afterward that our steward,
who had served for some years on a Canadian
line which used the strait, had been filled with
the gloomiest forebodings, and apparently they
were justified. I am informed that most of the
St. Lawrence steamers now pass south of New
foundland. We saw only one iceberg, just out
side the strait, and not a single vessel during the
twelve days.
After two days of light winds and calm, dur
ing which we advanced only sixty miles, a series
of shifting headwinds and gales, with occasional
fog, set in and kept us working off one lee shore
and then another. September 4th, when be
tween the Bay of Islands and Anticosti, a vio
lent southeast gale set in and lasted all night;
we had to house topmast and jibboom, and as
the waves were short as well as high we had
an uncomfortable time. The next day the wind
hauled to the westward and we anchored at
Sydney early on the morning of September 6th.
Six days had been spent in crossing the gulf, the
hardest and most anxious week of the whole
40

trip. The scarcity of lights and recognizable
landmarks, the constant proximity of the land,
the absence of harbors, the gales, and the thick
weather made a trying combination. Doubt
less the alternative route around Cape Race
would have its navigational drawbacks, but at
least one would have sea-room. The Belle Isle
route had been selected because of the possibil
ity of telegraphing home and because we fancied
we should be in safe and sheltered waters. It
was too dark to show our name when we passed
the signal station at the entrance of the strait,
and we were progressing so well when the west
ern end was reached that it did not seem worth
while to stop simply to telegraph at the little
town on the north side. We were willing to
make any port between Sydney and Gaspe\ and
it did not occur to me that the wind could be
contrary enough to head us off from all of them
for a week. The delay, coming at the end of
the long voyage, and the previous week of bat
tering, accentuated the discomforts, and for a
time we all felt that yachting had its limitations.
But that soon passed.
After re-victualling and coaling at Sydney we
came quietly down the coast, getting our last
hard blow (the seventeenth) off Newport, and
entered that port at daybreak, September 14th.
The next afternoon we sailed again, and entered
the Erie basin at 8 a.m., September 17th, five
days short of four months since we had sailed; 41

glad enough to get home, but equally glad that
we had made the trip, and ready to recommend
it to any who enjoy off-shore yachting.

42

APPENDIX CABIN LIST
14 lbs. ham.
6 jars beechnut bacon.
2 cases St. Charles cream ($12.00).
13 lbs. coffee.
4 lbs. tea.
25 lbs. cut sugar.
2 pkgs. corn starch.
1 2 cans Fleck pears.
7 cans cherries.
72 pints Franco-American soups.
6 qts. ripe olives.
3 doz. oranges.
1 doz. grape fruit.
1 box lemons.
1 bot. Liebig's beef extract.
1 bot. Parmesan cheese.
3 jars clubhouse cheese.
8 cans Albert crackers.
12 cans ginger wafers.
8 cans kippered herring.
3 doz. cans A. M. & C. petits pois.
i doz. cans A. M. & C. stringless beans.
1 case dwarf limas ($2.50).
1 case A. M. & C. tomatoes ($3.50).

431

3 doz. cans Hyde's corn ($1.20 per doz.).
4 cans Frankfurters.
12 cans veal and green peas.
2 cans R. & R. whole chicken.
5 cans Armour's corn beef hash.
8 cans R. & R. B. chicken (1 lb.).
2 cans R. & R. B. turkey (1 lb.).
14 cans Armour's roast beef (2 lbs.).
19 cans B. & M. roast mutton (2 lbs.).
\ bbl. sweet potatoes.
3 cans mere, mushrooms.
6 cans sardines.
12 pots marmalade.
12 lbs. Menier's chocolate.
6 glasses jelly.
4 doz. cans Boston baked beans ($3.00).
1 gal. olive oil.
1 gal. cider vinegar.
50 lbs. butter.
Small quantities of pepper, catsup, maple syrup,
pickles, lemon peel, ginger, lard, baking
powder.
6 pkgs. Pear's soap.
12 pkgs. Quaker Oats.
75 quarts White Rock.
1 case Sapolio.
1 case Soapine.
Toilet paper, blacking, and brushes.
crew
6 i bbls. flour.
3 hams. 44

6 bags potatoes.
i bush, yellow splits.
i bush, pea beans.
3 i bbls. pork.
6 ^ bbls. corned beef.
$ bbl. yellow turnips.
i bbl. carrots.
6o doz. eggs.
5 cases Mag. milk.
2 tubs butter.
i tub lard.
\ bbl. granulated sugar.
25 lbs. powdered sugar.
100 lbs. extra C. sugar.
50 lbs. evap. apples.
16 lbs. seeded raisins.
20 pkgs. currants.
4 lbs. citron.
2 lbs. lemon peel.
100 lbs. crew coffee.
25 lbs. E. B. tea.
2 boxes prunes.
6 bottles Bm. lemon.
6 lbs. baking powder.
3 gals, molasses.
30 lbs. buckwheat.
25 lbs. yellow meal.
\ bbl. crushed oats.
3 bottles vanilla.
5 cans shredded codfish.
3 boxes pilot crackers. 45

3 bags onions.
i bag parsnips.
n pkgs. bacon.
1 8 gals. Wayne Co. apples.
2 \ doz. cans Riverside peas.
4 doz. cans string beans.
2 doz. cans corn.
i doz. gals, tomatoes.
i box macaroni.
50 lbs. rice.
25 lbs. barley.
10 pkgs. corn starch.
25 lbs. tapioca.
1 case hominy ($2.40).
2 gals, gherkins.
1 pail chow-chow.
1 pail mix. pickles.
1 gal. catsup.
3 gals, cider vinegar.
1 qt. olives.
28 lbs. cheese.
2 cases Armour roast mutton ($8.50).
2 cases Armour beef (4 lb., $11.00).
3 cases Armour roast beef ($24.75).
50 lbs. sal soda.
12 pkgs. Gold Dust.
6 bags salt.
1 box salt-water soap.
Pepper, nutmeg, ginger, cloves, capers, mustard,
matches, toilet paper.

46

YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY

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