PLAN OF MEDIEVAL CAIRO A Kal'at el-Kebsh B Mosque of Ibn-Tulun C Mosque of el-Hakim D Space between lat and 2nd wall E Bab-Zuweyla p Bab-en-Nasr G Bab-el-Futuh H Bab-el-Hadid 1 Bab-el-Barkiya K Mosque el-Azliar L Site of Fatimid Palaces Gl M Site of Garden of Kafur R N Harat er-Eum S O Mosque of el-Muayyad T p Mosque of el-Ghuj'y V Mosque of Kalaun Mosque of el-Ashraf Mosque of Hasaneyn Mosque of Sultan Hasan Mosque of ez-Zahir CAIRO FIFTY YEARS AGO By EDWARD WILLIAM LANE AUTHOR OF ' THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE MODERN EGYPTIANS,' AN ARABIC-ENGLISH LEXICON, ETC EDITED BY STANLEY LANE-POOLE WITH A PLAN OF MEDIEVAL CAIRO LONDON JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET 1896 LONDON PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LTD, BT. JOHN'S HOUSE, CLERKENWELL, E.C Ef^a.S3S PREFACE Sixty years have passed since Lane pub lished his ' Modern Egyptians.' The book was recognised at once as a work of high authority, and the two generations of travellers and writers that have grown up since its first appearance, so far from superseding it, have confirmed the original judgment. The ' Modem Egyptians ' still holds its place unchallenged as the classical description of the life and manners of the Mohammadans of Egypt, and especially of Cairo. Yet it must have occurred to many readers, as a singular omission, that although the larger part of the ' Modern Egyptians ' refers to the inhabitants of the capital, where Lane spent many years, the book contains no description of Cairo itself. The ' Modern Egyptians,' it must be explained, was but an expanded and elaborated transcript of some chapters of a general ' Description of Egypt,' written by Lane during his first visit to the Nile in 1825-8, and this work, with the vi Preface exquisite sepia sketches designed to illustrate it, still remains an unpublished manuscript in the British Museum, where it is catalogued under the numbers Add. 34080-88. The ' Description of Egypt,' it will there be found, contains an account of Cairo, and it is probable that, as Lane was still expecting the speedy publication of this manuscript, he reserved his description of Cairo for the purely topographical work, instead of transferring it to the special treatise on the manners and customs of the modern inhabi tants. Nevertheless, he seems at one time to have contemplated a different plan, and to have revised and enlarged his description of Cairo with a view to its insertion in the ' Modern Egyptians.' This would explain the origin of the manuscript which is now for the first time published. The chapters on Cairo in the MS. ' Description of Egypt ' are much less detailed than the present work, and from internal evidence it is clear that the MS. upon which this volume is founded was written about 1835 — the year when Lane was revising and expanding his account of the ' Modern Egyptians.' On reconsidera tion, however, the description of Cairo was Preface vii excluded from the ' Modern Egyptians,' though some passages containing general descriptions of the streets and mosques were transferred to that work. The rest remained in manuscript, and was used by Mrs. Poole in the historical portions of her ' English woman in Egypt,' written in 1842-6, where she frequently refers to her brother's ' notes ' and 'manuscript.' The attention thus drawn again to the description of Cairo induced her younger son, Reginald Stuart Poole, to copy his uncle's manuscript in 1847, and it is from this copy, which he gave me some years ago, that the present text is printed. Mr. Stuart Poole, at the date when he made this copy, was in his sixteenth year, a lad of eager intelligence, living since 1842 with his uncle and mother in Cairo, and deeply absorbed in the history and antiquities of Egypt. A year later he was writing his ingenious letters on ancient Egyptian chrono logy, published in 1851 under the title of ' Horae Aegyptiacae,' which, apart from theories which he afterwards abandoned, testify unmistakably to his intellectual powers, his learning, and his industry in research, at an age when youth does not commonly viii Preface adventure in such fields. It is not likely that he would have copied his uncle's manu script without verification ; indeed, the copy contains evidence of collation with the monu ments, in occasional notes and corrections, made after consultation with the author him self; the work was undoubtedly brought up to date. This is why I have given it a title referring not to 1835, but to 1847, although it unquestionably reached very nearly its present form at the earlier date. In the absence of the MS. of 1835 itis impossible to determine the exact amount of the revision of 1847 ; but it is safe to say that whatever corrections and additions were made, they were inserted after careful observation and were individually examined and approved by Lane himself. The alterations must in any case have been slight, for, except in a few imitations of European examples, Cairo in 1847 was practically the same city as in 1835. The work, small as it is, has a special value, since it describes, with Lane's uncom promising accuracy, the characteristics and chief buildings of Cairo at a time when western innovations were almost unknown. The introduction of glass windows in houses Preface ix of ' Turkish grandees,' the opening of Euro pean shops in the Musky, the occasional use of the black coat and trousers by ' P" ranks ' and officials, and the employment of European workmen in the arsenal, are all the signs of western influence that Lane has to record. The Ezbekiya was then distinguished by the palaces of pashas, but the beginning of its present state was seen in its one hotel and its almost European gardens (pp. 70-73). The visitor to Cairo in 1896 will hardly recognise the description of the approach Yd the city from Bulak in the days when every body came from Alexandria by the Mah- mudiya canal. The ' uneven ' road, raised above the level of the inundation, and sur rounded by marshes or beanfields, according to the season, with rubbish mounds from the top of which one obtained a first view of Cairo, have given place to the villas and wellrkept roads of Tawfikiya and the Euro pean colony, the whole of which has grown up since this book was written. Besides its importance as a picture of Cairo fifty years ago, by a peculiarly quali fied observer, .the work possesses a distinct interest in its historical account of the various X Preface walls, gates, mosques, and other buildings, drawn from el-Makrlzy's Khitat. This in valuable ' Topography of Cairo,' written in 141 7, has of course been extensively used by every serious student of the antiquities of the city, but has never been translated as a whole, and many of the extracts now pub lished from the Arabic will be new to most readers. Lane had evidently made an atten tive study of el-Makrizy, and compared his statements with the remains existing in his own day, and his comments are the more valuable because much of what he describes has since disappeared. At the same time I should be the first to admit that Lane might have made a larger use of the mine of precious information con tained in the Khitat. That he did not avail himself of it to the fullest extent is partly explained by, the fact that he was not writing a special history of Cairo, but merely a few chapters dealing historically with its existing characteristics, as part of a general descrip tion of Egypt. But, beyond this self-imposed restriction. Lane had never made a technical study of the history of Saracenic or Arab architecture, as his descriptions of the Preface xi mosques sufficiently prove. His notes on the pointed arches of Ibn-Tulun and the Nilometer, and his records of late restora tions, are evidence that he was (as need hardly be said) a careful observer ; but he passes over details of architectural style and decoration in a manner which shows that here he was not in his element. His descrip tions of the principal mosques, as they ap peared in 1835 and 1847, are not, however, to be undervalued because they are not the work of a trained student of Saracenic art. They preserve for us features which have since vanished, and they enable us to com pare the present state of these monuments with their appearance in the first half of this century. In preparing the MS. for the press, besides bringing the transliteration of Arabic names into accord with modern systems, I have omitted a good deal that appeared to me redundant, or that has already been published in the ' Modern Egyptians ' or the ' English woman in Egypt.' But I have inserted nothing in the text without the distinctive mark of square brackets. In the footnotes I have given the references to el-Makrizy xii Preface (Bulak text, 2 vols.), which were omitted in the MS., but I have not revised the transla tions from the Khitat, although I am aware that Lane's fastidious scholarship of later years would have introduced various emen dations in minor details. In the Notes at the end of the volume I have pointed out a few results which recent research has brought to bear upon the subject, without, however, attempting a detailed commentary. I have also prefixed a plan of Cairo, based upon Lane's original draught, and appended a full index, which will, I hope, make this Httie work useful to the ever-increasing number of visitors to Cairo who are also students of its history and antiquities. STANLEY LANE - POOLE. The Athenaeum, September .^ i8g CONTENTS CHAPTER I fAGE THE OLDER CAPITALS I Successive capitals i — El-Fustat (Masr) 3 — El- 'Askar 7 — Ibn-Tuli^n founds el-Katai' 9 — Descrip tion of the Tulunid capital iq — 'Abb^sid conqueror revives el-'Askar 14 — El-Maks 15 — Changes in the course of the Nile 15 — Legend of the Sphinx and its mate 16 — Gardens of ez-Zahry 17 — Gezirat el- Fil 18 — Origin of Bulak 20. CHAPTER II THE FOUNDING OF CAIRO 22 El-Kahira = Masr = Cairo 22 — Gohar founds el- Kahira 23 — Astrological precautions 24 — First Wall of ' the City ' 26 — Original gates 27 — Palaces of the Fatimid Khalifas 28 — Azhar Mosque 29 — Second Wall 29 — Citadel and Third Wall begun by Saladin 30 — Suburbs 31. xiv Contents CHAPTER III PAGE CAIRO IN 1847 34 The approach from Bulak 34 — Canals 35 — Area and population in 1847, 36 — State ofthe walls 36 — Gates 37 — Change in position of the Bab-en-Nasr 38, of the Bab-el-Futuh 39, and the Bab-Zuweyla 40 — Minarets over the Bab-Zuweyla 42 — Place of execution 43 — Bab-el-Hadid 43. CHAPTER IV THE CITADEL 44 Site and foundation of the Citadel 44 — Saladin and Karakush 44 — The Rumeyla 45 — Bab-el-'Azab 45 — Kasr Yusuf 46 — Old mosque of en-Nasir 48 — 'House of Saladin' 48 — View 49 — Well of the Winding Stairs 51 — Hall of Audience 52 — Modern works 53. CHAPTER V *¦ THE STREETS AND QUARTERS 54 Arabian style 54 — Widening the streets 55 — Main streets 55 — Shops 56 — Bye-streets and private houses 57 — Quarters 59 — Markets 59 — Khans 61 — Khan el-Khalily 62 — Public auctions 63 — Wekalas 65 — Slave market 66 — Jews' quarter 68 — Greeks', Copts', and Franks' quarters 69 — The Musky 70 — Ezbekiya 70 — Palaces there 71 — Birket el-Fil 72 — Cemeteries and gardens ' 73 — The Canal 73. Contents xv CHAPTER VI _ PAGE THE MOSQUES OF EL-KAHIRA 75 Mosques 75 — Garni', Medresa, Mesgid, Zawiya 76 — General plan 77 — The Azhar University Mosque 78 — Mohammad Bey 83 — Hasaneyn 83 — El-Hakim 86 — BarkQklya 87 — Kalaun 88 — Maristan or hospital 92 — Ashrafiya 94 — Ghuriya 94 ^- El' Muayyad 95. CHAPTER VII THE MOSQUES OUTSIDE ' THE CITY ' 99 Sultan Hasan 99 — Ibn-Tulun 103 — Kal'at el' Kebsh 109 — Mastabat Far'un iii — Seyda Zeyneb 112 — Seyda Nefisa 1I3 — Seyda Sekina 113 — El- Maridany 113 — Iskender 114 — Sebils or fountains 114. CHAPTER VIII THE CITIES OF THE DEAD II7 Mount Mukattara 117 — Kubbat el-Hawa 118 — Mosque of ez-Zahir 119 — Cemetery of the Bab-en- Nasr 119 — Cemetery of Kait-Bey ('Tombs of the Caliphs ') 120 — Mosque of Barkuk 120 — Mosque of Kait-Bey 122 — TheMugawirin 123 — The Southern Karafa ('Tombs of the Mamluks') 124 — Imam esh- Shafi'y 125 — Mohammad 'Aly's family tombs 126 — 'Eyn es-Sira 126. xvi Contents CHAPTER IX PAGE THE ISLAND OF ER-RODA 1 28 Kasr el-'Eyny 128 — Tekiya el-Bektashiya 129 — Aqueduct 130 — Gezirat er-Roda 133 — Nilometer 134 — Mosque 136 — Castle of er-Roda 137. CHAPTER X MASR EL-'aTIKA I39 • Masr el-'Atika ('Old Cairo') 139 — 'Granaries of Joseph ' 140 — Mosque of 'Amr 140 — Kasr esh- Shema' 143 — Coptic churches 145 — Babylon 146 — Antar's Stable 147 — Athar en-Neby 147 — El- Giza 147. Notes 149 Index 15 3 Plan of Cairo .... Frontispiece CAIRO FIFTY YEARS AGO CHAPTER I THE OLDER CAPITALS ' After the building of el-Fustat by the Muslims [immediately after their conquest of Egypt, in 641], the seat of government was transferred from the city of el-Iskenderiya [Alexandria], after it had been the royal residence and place of the government above nine hundred years. From that time el- Fustat became the seat of government, where the governors of Egypt made their abode ; and so it continued until el-'Askar was built outside el-Fustat, and the gover nors of Egypt too'K up their abode in that place and remained there ; but some of them sometimes dwelt at el-Fustat. Then, when the Emir Abu-1-' Abbas Ahmad ibn Tulun founded el-Katai', adjacent to el-'Askar, he £ 2 Cairo Fifty Years Ago resided there ; and the Emirs after him made it their abode until the dynasty of the Tulunids came to an end. After that the governors of Egypt dwelt in el-'Askar, with out el-Fustat ; and they continued to do so until the arrival of the troops of the Imam el-Mo'izz H-dini-llah Abu-Temim Ma'add the Fatimid, with his secretary Gohar el-Kaid, who built el-Kahira \_Cairo], and took up his abode there with his army. Then came also el-Mo'izz, and took up his abode in his palace at el-Kahira, and this became the residence of the Khalifas.' ^ ' So (says el- Makrizy) ^ el-Kahira became the seat of government, where dwelt the Khalifa, with his women and court, until the Fatimid dynasty became extinct. After them the Sultan Salah-ed-din Yusuf [Saladin'] the son of Ayyub resided there, and his son el- Melik el- 'Aziz 'Othman, and his son el-Melik el-Mansur Mohammad ; and el-MeHk el- 'Adil Abu-Bekr ibn Ayyub, and his son el-Melik el-Kamil Mohammad, who removed from el-Kahira to the Castle of the Mountain [the Citadel which Salah-ed-din had founded], • El-Makrizy, Khitat, i. 285. = M., i. 348. The Older Capitals 3 where he resided with his women and court ; and the kings who have succeeded him have dwelt there unto this our day.' When 'Amr ibn el-'Asy, the Arab con queror of Egypt, commanded his servants to strike his tent previously to his commencing his march to Alexandria, it was found that a dove had built her nest and hatched her eggs within it. He therefore forbade the removal of the tent, and charged the governor of the neighbouring Roman fortress [Kasr- esh-Shema', or Babylon] to watch it during the absence of the army. When the Mus lims returned from Alexandria, they asked where they should encamp : he replied, ' El- Fustat,' that is, ' the Tent,' meaning his own, which was stiU standing as he. had left it ; and they built around it the city which was therefore called el-Fustat. This was in A.H. 20, A.D. 641.^ ' The site of el-Fustat, which is now \i.e., A.D. 141 7] called the city of Masr [for the name ' Masr,' correctly Misr, had not then been transferred to el-Kahira], was waste land and sown fields, from the Nile to the eastern ^ M., i. 296. B 2 4 Cairo Fifty Years Ago mountain, which is known by the name of Gebel el-Mukattam ; there were no buildings there except the fortress, now called Kasr esh-Shema' and el-Mo'allaka. There the Roman governor, who presided in Egypt on the part of the Caesars (the Kings of the Romans), used to reside when he came from Alexandria ; and he was accustomed to remain here as long as he pleased, and then to return to the seat of government, which was the royal palace at Alexandria. This fortress overlooked the Nile, and the boats came close up to its western gate, which was called el-Bab el-Gedid, or the New Gate. There el-Mukawkis [the Pagarch or Governor] embarked when he was overcome by the Muslims at the fortress, and thence he went over to the island which is opposite the fortress, and which is now called er-Roda, opposite Masr [that is, old Masr, or el-Fus tat J. There was a Mikyas [or Nilometer] by the side of this fortress. Ibn-Mattug has said, •"¦ The pillar of the Mikyas is still standing, in the lane of the mosque of Ibn- en-No'man''; and I add that it remains in this our time, that is, in the year 820 [a.d. 141 7]... In the neighbourhood of the TJic Older Capitals 5 fortress, on the northern side, were trees and vineyards ; and that place became the site of the Old Mosque [or Mosque of 'Amr]. Between the fortress and the mountain were many churches and convents ofthe Christians. Most of these were in the part which is now called Rashida ; and in the vicinity of the fortress, in the tract between the vineyards and the eminence now called Gebel Yeshkur, the site of the Mosque of Ibn-Tulun and el- Kebsh, were also many churches and con vents of Christians ; they were in the tract which was known, in the first ages of el- Islam, by the name of El-Hamra, and is now called the quarter of the Kanatir es-Siba'a, and the Seba' Sikayat. There remained in the district of el- Hamra many of these con vents, until they were pulled down in the reififn of el-Melik en-Nasir Mohammad ibn Kalaun... When 'Amr ibn el-'Asy had taken Alexandria for the first time, he came to the neighbourhood of this fortress [of Babylon], and founded the mosque called the Old Mosque, or Mosque of 'Amr ibn el-'Asy : then the Arab tribes built around it ; and thus arose the city called el-Fustat, in which they took up their abode. Some years after 6 Cairo Fifty Years Ago the conquest the Nile retired from the immediate vicinity of the fortress and the Old Mosque, and the Muslims used to exercise their beasts of burden along the intermediate tract. Afterwards, by degrees, houses were built there.' ^ Ibn-Hawkal [a.d. 978] describes el-Fus tat as a large city, equal in extent to about the third part of Baghdad [but he includes el-Katai'], containing fine markets, and surrounded by gardens and pleasure-grounds. The houses, he says, were six and five stories high ; and some of them capable of accommodating two hundred persons. The streets were narrow, and the houses built of brick.^ The mosque founded by 'Amr was the most remarkable of its public buildings. There was formerly a bridge of boats from el-Fustat to the island of er-Roda, and another from the island to el-Giza ; and the Nile then sur rounded er-Roda during the whole of the year. The fall of the city of el-Fustat was owing to two causes — first, the great famine which ' M., i. 286. ^ Quoted by el-Makrizy, i. 341. The Older Capitals 7 happened during the reign of the Fatimid Khalifa el-MustansIrbi-llah [and which lasted seven years] ; secondly, the burning of Masr [Fustat] in the time of the Vezir Shawer, A.H. 564 (1168), to prevent its being taken by Almeric, king of Jerusalem, when he in vaded Egypt. When el-Fustat was burnt, the inhabitants repaired to the neighbouring fortified city of el-Kahira. The conflagra tion lasted more than fifty days. After the departure of the Franks the inhabitants who had fled returned, and rebuilt many of their, ruined houses ; but El-Fustat from that period rapidly declined, while el-Kahira, which during the time of the Fatimids was a much smaller city, daily increased, until it became the chief city in Egypt.^ El-Askar was founded in 133 a.h. (750-1). The name, which signifies ' the army,' was given to the new town because it was founded on the site of the camp of the army of Saiih, the brother of the first 'Abbasid Khalifa, who established the dominion of that dynasty in Egypt. The Governors appointed by the Khalifas of Baghdad disdained to reside in 1 M., i. 286. 8 Cairo Fifty Years Ago the city where their predecessors under the hated Omayyads had fixed their seat of government ; they all therefore dwelt in el-'Askar, which, however, never was the rival in extent or magnificence of el-Fustat, which was still the capital. ' El-'Askar, in the first ages of Islam, was called el-Hamra el- Kuswa ; . . . this was the quarter of the Beni-I- Azrak and Beni-Rubil and Beni-Yeshkur-ibn- Gezila (or Hodeyba). This tract was after wards deserted, and it became a waste place. Afterwards, when Marwan ibn Mohammad, the last of the Omayyad Khalifas, came to Egypt, and was pursued by the forces of the 'Abbasids, the armies of SaHh ibn 'Aly and Abu-'Awn 'Abd-el-Melik took up their quarters in this tract, near Gebel Yeshkur, and they occupied all the vacant district ; and Abu-'Awn gave orders to build there, and they built. This was in 133 (750). When Saiih ibn 'Aly departed from Egypt, the greater part of the new town was reduced to ruin ; and so it remained till the time of Musa ibn 'Isa el-Hashimy, who built there a palace, where he placed his servants and slaves ; and others of the people dwelt there. Then succeeded es-Surey ibn el-Hakam, The Older Capitals 9 and gave permission to the people to build ; and they built there, and had possessions, and the buildings became united with those of el-Fustat. A Government -house was erected there, and a congregationsil mosque, which was called Gami' el-'Askar, and Gami' Sahil el-Ghalla.' ^ In 256 (869), Ahmad ibn Tulun, having been appointed Governor of Egypt, threw off his [temporal] allegiance to the Khalifa of Baghdad, rendered himself sole master of Egypt and Syria, and founded the royal city of el-Katai' . El-Katai', or el-Katayi', signifies ' the wards,' or ' the quarters,' and this name was given to the new city because it was divided into distinct quarters, each of which was inhabited by a certain class of people. It was remarkable rather for the magnificence of the buildings which it contained than for its extent. The Great Mosque is still one of the finest monuments in Cairo. The palaces, hippodrome, and gardens of el- Katai' were on the same grand scale as the mosque, and its markets were even better supphed than those of el-Fustat, which was 1 M., i. 304. 10 Cairo Fifty Years Ago a much larger city. El-Makrizy says, ' Know that the vestiges of el-Katai' have disappeared, and there remains no trace [of its extent] that is known. Its site was between the Kubbat el-Hawa [a building different from that so called at the present time, which is behind the Citadel], where the Castle of the Mountain [or Citadel] was afterwards built, andthe Mosque of Ibn-Tulun. It is most probable that such was the length of el-Katai'. Its breadth was from the top of the Rumeyla, below the Citadel, to the place which is now called Ard es-Safra, by the Meshheder-Ras [or Shrine of the Head], which is now called Zeyn-el-'Abidin. The extent of el-Katai' was a mile either way. The Kubbat el-Hawa was on the flat top of the hill upon which is [now] the Castle of the Mountain ; and below the Kubbat el- Hawa was the Palace of Ibn-Tulun ; for the site of this palace was in the Meydan es- Sultany [or Royal Hippodrome], below the Citadel. The Rumeyla, below the Citadel, which is the market-place for horses and asses and camels, was a garden ; and ad jacent to it was the Meydan, in the part which is now called el-Kubeybat. [This was The Older Capitals 1 1 on the west of the Kara-Meydan, as is proved by the situation of the mosque called Gami' el-Bakly, still existing, which el-Makrizy says was in the quarter of el-Kubeybat.] The Meydan was between the palace and the Mosque of Ahmad Ibn-Tulun. Adjacent to the mosque was the Government-house, on the southern side ; and there was a door in the side of the mosque by which one passed to the Maksura which surrounded the Musafla [or Oratory] of the prince, near the Mihrab [or niche which marks the direction of Mecca]. There also was the Palace of the Women. El-Katai' consisted of a number of quarters, in which dwelt the slaves of Ibn-Tulun and his soldiers and attendants : each quarter was allotted to a certain class of persons ; they were called the quarter of the Sudan [or Blacks], and the quarter of the Rum [or Greeks], and the quarter of the Farrashin [or household ser vants], and so on: in each dwelt a certain number of persons, as [now] in the quarters of el-Kahira.' "^ 1 M., i. 313. What follows is abridged from the same. 1 2 Cairo Fifty Year's Ago In Sha'ban, a.h. 256 (870), Ibn-Tulun rode to the foot of the mountain and ordered hi^ people to destroy the tombs of the Jews and Christians. There he founded the Palaccj artd marked out the Meydan, and com manded his subjects to build for themselves around that palace. The buildings which they raised extended as far as el-Fustat [or rather as far as el-'Askar, which was adjacent to el-Fustat]. Handsome mosques were erected there,- aild baths, market-places, &c. ; and everything that could be procured in el- Fustat was found in greater abundance and of a better quahty at el-Katai', which soon became a place of greater resort than Damascus. The Meydan was entered by several gates ; there was one gate by which the troops entered, another for the prince's household officers, another for his women and eunuchs. The principal street, which led from the Great Mosque to the Palace, had three gates, side by side ; aiid when Ibn- Tulun went out with his escort, the soldiers passed in regular order through the side gates, the prince riding by himself through the middle gate. When he died, his son Khumaraweyh enlarged the palace, and con- The Older Capitals 13 verted the Meydan into a garden, which he stocked with various kinds of sweet-smelling flowers, some of them sown in the forms of letters and sentences. He transplanted thither all kinds of rare trees, with palm-trees of a very fine kind, the dates of which were within reach of a person standing or sitting, and surrounded the trunk of each palm-tree with a cylinder of gilded brass, which was filled with water. He also formed channels for water throughout the whole garden, to irrigate it ; and made there an aviary, which contained all kinds of birds remarkable for the beauty of their plumage or the sweetness of their notes. He likewise built a hall, the waUs of which were gilded, and the interior adorned with carved and painted images of himself and his wives and female singers, notwithstanding the prohibition directed against such things by his religion. But the most remarkable of his works was a lake filled with quicksilver. It is said to have been fifty cubits [97 feet] square. A bed of leather filled with air was placed upon the surface of this lake, and secured by silken bands, each of which was attached to a silver ring fixed at the margin. The prince, being 14 Cairo Fifty Years Ago troubled with restlessness at night, adopted this contrivance in order to procure sleep, which was agreeably induced by the rocking of the bed. He also made another Meydan, larger than that of his father. On 1st of Rebi' I, 292 (905), the 'Abbasid general, Mohammad ibn Suleyman, ' entered and set fire to el-Katai', and his army plun dered el-Fustat, and broke open the prisons and set at liberty all those that were in them, and destroyed the houses, and committed all kinds of excesses.' ^ Thus was Egypt restored to the Khalifas of Baghdad. El- Katai' was not, however, utterly destroyed, for we read that it was again ' desolated at the time of the great famine in the reign of the Khalifa el-Mustansir, when all its inhabitants perished. It consisted of more than 100,000 houses, the delight of beholders, surrounded by gardens and pleasure-grounds.' Thus el-Katai' ceased to exist at the period when el-Fustat began to decline ; but after A.D. 905 the successive Governors of Egypt resided again in el-'Askar. There was another town in this neighbour- 1 M., i. 322. The Older Capitals 15 hood, which existed before the foundation of el-Kahira, and even before the conquest of Egypt by the Arabs. This town was called el- Maks. The north-western suburbs of Cairo now occupy its site. ' Know that el- Maks was an ancient town, and was known in the Times of Ignorance [i.e. before Islam] by the name of Umm-Denin. It is now a suburb of el-Kahira, in the tract on the west of the canal, and at the time when el-Kahira was founded the Nile flowed by the side of this place. Here the Imam el- Mo'izz made the dock-yard . . . Here also the Imam el-Hakim founded the Gami' el- Maks, which the common people in Masr in our time call Gami' el-Maksy, and which overlooks the Khalig en-Nasiry.' ^ Maks, it is added, is a corruption of Meks, which means ' a custom -tax' ; for it was the station of the receiver of the customs. The account which el-Makrizy gives of the changes in the course of the river near Cairo, since the foundation of that city, is very interesting. All the islands opposite Cairo, except er-Roda, have been formed, 1 M., ii. 121. i6 Cairo Fifty Years Ago he says, since the conquest of Egypt by the Muslims. ' It is said — but God knows best — that the figure known in the present day by the name of Abu-l-Hol [' Father of Fright,' i.e. the Great Sphinx] was a talisman con trived by the ancients to keep away the sand from overspreading the fields and obstructing the river ; and on the opposite side of the river was another figure, corresponding with Abu-l-Hol, by the Kasr esh-Shema', also facing the east, which was for the lil 129 Castles 31, 109-112, 137 Cemeteries 1 19-127 Citadel 44-53 ' City - 26 Convents 5, 16, 24, 129 Dockyard 15, 133 Foundation of el-Kahira 22-26 Gardens 17-19, 118, II9, etc. Gates 27, 29-31 Hospital 72-4 Houses 54-8 -Katai' 9-14 Khans 61-5 Lakes 72, 119 -Maks 17-19, 30-1 Markets (Siiks) 59-61 Masr el-'Atika ('Old Cairo') 139-147 Meydans 10-13, 29, 45 Mosques 75-116 Palaces 10, 28, 46, 53, 71. 73. 83-4, 109-12, 133. 137 Quarters 59, 68-70 Shops 56 ff Slave-market 66-7 Streets 27-9, 55 ff Suburbs 31-2 University 78-83 Walls 26, 29-31, 36-7 Index 157 Caliphs: see 'Abbasid, Fatimid, and Omayyad Khalifas Canals 35 : see Khalig Castle of the Mountain, see Citadel Ceraeteries 119-127 Churches 5, 145, 154 Citadel 2, 3, 10, 30, 36, 44-53. 149-50 ' City, the ' 26 College (Medresa) 76 Convents 5, 16, 24, 129 Copts 69, 71, 104 Custom house 15 Dar el-'Adl 46 Darb (bye-street) 57 Darb Butut 26, 31 Deftardar's house 71 Dellals (brokers) 63 Deylem gate 84 Deyr el-'Izam 24 Dhahab, Abii, Mosque 83 Diwan (hall of audience) 52-3 Dockyard 15, 133 Dukhan (shop) 56 : see Suk, Khan, Welala. Eagle of Citadel 46 Edessa 42 Elephant's Island 18 -Elfy 70 European innovations 53, 54, 56, 58, 69, 70 Execution, place of 43, 94 Eybek 138 'Eyn Shems (Heliopolis) 24 'Eyn es-Sira 126, 153 Ezbekiya 17, 34, 37, 70-73 Fahhamin, Suk 60 Farag, Sultan 120 Farrashin 1 1 Fatiha 85, 112 Fatimid lOiallfas 2, 7, 18, 23, 28, 31, 64, 84, 87, 106, 133 Fatiras 82 Frank quarters 69, 70 French occupation, 34, 37, 119, 135 -Fustat 1-7, 12, 14, 23, 30, 139-147 Gami' (Mosque) 75-116: see under separate names. Gardens 13, 17-19, 24, 50, 73, 118-119, 134 Gates of Cairo 27, 29-31 : see under Bab Gellabs 67 Gemaliya, Siik 60 Gezirat Biilak 21 Gezirat el-Fil 18-20 Ghuriya Mosque 94, 95, 151 Sak, 57, 60 -Ghiiry 95, 131, 137 -Giza 6, 17, 23, 30, 44, 147-S Goarhirgiya, Siik 60 Gohar el-Kaid 2, 23-29, 39, 41,78 ' Granaries of Joseph ' 140 Greeks (Riim) 11, 23, 29,69,70 -Guwaniya quarter 69 Haddadin, Suk 57, 60 Hagar and the Canal, tradition 129 -Haggarin 41 -Hakim, 'Abbasid Khalifa 1 10 158 Index -Hakim, Fatimid Khalifa 3i>87 Mosque 30, 39, 29. 40, 86-7 -Hamra 5, 8, 17 -Hamzawy, khan 65 Hanafiya 101 Hara (quarter) 59 Harat-el-Ifreng 69, 70 en-Nasara 69 er-Riim 29, 32, 69 el-Yahud 68 Hasan, Sultan 99 Mosque 99-103 Hasaneyn Mosque 82-86 Hodag palace 133, 153-4 Holy Family 145 Hoseyn, head of 83-86 Hoseyniya 32 Hospital of Kalaiin 92-4 H6tel d'Orient 72 Houses 54, 56-58 Ibrahim Pasha 50, 128, 134 Iskender Pasha, Mosque 114 -Iskenderiya (Alexandria) I Istabl 'Antar 147 Janizaries 46, 53, 82 Jews 68 'Joseph's Hair 46 -Kahira 2, 22-9 : see Cairo Kait Bey cemetery 66,120-123 Mosque 122 -Kal 'a (castle) 44 Kal'at el-Gebel : see Citadel el-Kebsh 109- 112 el-Maks 3? Kal'at er-Roda 137 Kalaun 46, 88, 90, 138 Mosques and hospital 88-94, 150 Kamil Pasha's palace 71 Kanatir el-Awz 19 es-Siba'a 5, 17 Kantarat el-Khurk 17 -Karafa(southern cemetery) 124 Karakiish 36, 44, 46, 51 Kara-Meydan 10 Kasaba 61 Kasabat Ridwan 61 Kasidiya Mosque 38 Kasr el-'Eyny 128 el-Keblr 28 es-Saghir 28 esh-Shema' 3, 4, 16, 17, 132. 143-7 esh-Shok 24 Yiisuf 46 -Katai' 1, 9-14, 32, 103 -Kebsh 5, 109-112 Khalig, the Canal 35, 73-4, 129 -Khalig en-Nasiry 15, 19, 20, 35 Khalil 47 Khan 61-5 Khan el-Khalily 28, 62-4 Khanikah es-Salahiya 16 -Khatiry, Mosque 20 Khumaraweyh 12-14 Khutba 87 Kibla (direction of Mecca) 38- 39. 77 Kleber 71 Koran 85, 103, 105, 109, 1 36 Kubbat el-Hawa 10,118 Index 159 Kubbat el-Mansviriya 88-91 -Kubeybat 10, 11 Kufic inscriptions 39, 102, 109, 136 -Kulzum 130 Lakes : see under Birket Libraries in mosques 80 -Luk 17 : see Bab-el-Luk Mad-house 92-3 Mad'na : see Minaret Mahmud II., of Turkey 85 -Mahriisa 23 -Makrizy's grave 120 -Maks 15,17-19,23,30-1 Mosque 15, 19, 31 Castle 31 Maksura (Screen) 11,85 Mamliiks 45, 46, 70, 72, 120, 124, 126, 138 -Mamun, 'Abbasid Khalifa 134 -Mansiir ,, ,, 130 -Mansiirlya, original name of el- Kahira 26 Margush, Siik 60 -Maridany, Mosque 113, 152 Markets (Siiks) 59-61 Masr (or Misr) 3, 22, 146 Masr el-'Atika (el-Fustat, ' Old Cairo ') 4, 22-3, 132, 139- 147 Mastaba (stone bench) 55, 56 Mastabat Far'un 111,152 Mattug, Ibn 4 Medfen (tomb-chamber of M.) 85, 88,. 89 Medresa (college) 76 el-Mansiirlya 88, 91-92 -Megra (aqueduct) 130-1 Meks 15 Menazir el-Kebsh 109-112 Mesgid (small mosque) 76 Meshhed (sanctuary) 83-4 Meshhed er-Ras 10 Meydaa (ablution-tank) 81, 97. IOI Meydan 10-13 Mihrab (prayer-niche) II, 77 Mikyas (Nilometer) 4, 109, 133-6, 152 Minaret (mad'na) 42, 43, 78, S3, 87, 88, 99, io8, 151-2 Minbar (pulpit) 77 Mint 53 Minyat 'Okba 18 Minyat es-STreg 19 Miraculous cures 91 Miska, Sitta, Mosque 17 -Mo'allaka 4 Mohammad the Prophet 75, 132, 147 Mohammad 'Aly 3;, 43, 46, 49, 55, "8, 126, 131 Mohammad Bey, Mosque 83 Mohammad Pasha Khusruf 13s Mohammad ibn Suleyman 14 -Mo 'izz, Fatimid Khalifa 2,15, 23, 41, 62 Mosques 75-116 -Muayyad, Sultan 42 [151 Mosque 95-8, lOO-i, -Mugawirin (Azhar students) 80, 123 -Mukattam, Gebel 36, 44, 96, 104, 117 -Murady 137 i6o Index Musa el-Hashimy 8 Musalla (oratory) 19 Musalla el-'Id 39, 149 Mushafs 105 -Miisky 61, 69, 70 -Mustansir, Fatimid Khalifa 7, 14, 29, 106, 134, 136 -Mutawekkil, 'Abbasid Khalifa 134 Nahhasin, Suk 60, 88 -Nasir Mohammad 5, 16, 20, 47, 90, no Mosque 48, 149 Nazir (warden of Mosque) 98 Nefisa, Seyda or Sitta, Mosque 32, 113, 152 Negm-ed-din's palace 137 Nile, changes in bed of 4, 6, 15-21, 140 Nilometer (Mikyas) 4, 109, 133-6, 145 -No'man, Ibn, Mosque 4 Old Cairo: seeMasrel-'Atlka 'Omar ibn el-Khattab 130 Omayyad Khalifas 8 'Othman Bey 112 Palaces io, 28, 46, 53, 71, 73. 83-4, 109-112,133, 137 ' Pharaoh's seat ' in Pictures 13 Prophet, footprints of the 122, 147 Pyramids used as quarries 36, 44 Quicksilver Lake 13 Raka' (upper storey) 56 Ramadan 86, 142 Rashida 5 Ridwan Kikhya 45] Riwak 80 -Roda island 4, 6, 15, 47, 50 132-8 Castle 137 -Ruha (Edessa) 42 Riim (Greeks) 11, 23, 29, 69, 70 Rumeyla 10, 29, 45 Sagha, Suk 60 Sahil el-Ghalla, Mosque 9 Sahn (court of Mosque) 106 Saim ed-Dahr 16 Sakkas (water-carriers) 64 Saladin (Salah-ed-din Yiisuf ibn Ayyiib) 2, 30-2, 36, 43-8, 51 -Salahlya convent 16 Saiih ibn 'Aly 7, 8 -Saiih Negm-ed-dIn Ayyiib 110, 133, 136-7 -Saiih Isma'il, tomb gi Seba' Sawaky 130 Seba' Sikayat 5 Sebils (fountains) 64, 79, 95, 1 14-16, 120, 122 Seggada (prayer-carpet) 81 Sekina, Seyda, Mosque 113 Shafi'y, Imam, tomb, 125-6,153 -Sharaf 146 Shari' (main street) 55 Shawer 7 Sheykhu, Mosque 114, 153 Sikka (street) 55 Sina'a (dockyard) 15, 133 Index r6i Slave market 66-7 Sphinx 16-17 Statues 13 Streets 54 ff. Suburbs 31-2 Sudan (blacks) 11, S3 Siik (market) 59-61 Suk el-'Asr 60 Siik es-SUah 61 Sukkariya, Siik 60 -Surey 8 Suriyat Abi-l-Hol 16 SurOgiya, Siik 61 Suyurghatraish, Emir no -Tabbakh, ^fosque 17 Tabiit (cenotaph) 85 -Tag 19 Tarbi'a, or Suk 60 Temples used as quarries 47, 137 Teylun 103 Throne-verse 103 Tombs 124, see Cemeteries ' Tombs of the Caliphs ' 120 Trail, Mr. 134 Tiilun, Ahmad Ibn i, 9-12, 103-9, 133-4 Mosque 5, 9-12, 32, 103-9, 151 Tiiman Bey 43 Tutis or TItiis 129 Umm-Dkntn 15 Univeisity (Azhar) 78-83 Usama ibn Zeyd 133 Wahhabis 71 WaUs of Cairo 26, 29-31, 33, 36-7 Wanakin, Siik 60 Wekala 65-7 Well of Citadel 51-2 Yelbugha 131 Yeshkur, Gebel 5, 8, 104 -Zahir : see Beybars -Zahry Gardens 17-18 Zawiya (small mosque) 76 Zeyneb, Seyda, Mosque 82, 1 1 2 Zeyn-el-'Abidin 10 M THE WORKS OF E. W. LANE. THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE MODERN EGYPTIANS (1836). Sixth edition. 2 vols. Murray. 1871. THE THOUSAND AND ONE NIGHTS (1840). Second edition. 3 vols. Murray. 1859. 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