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REINDEER, DOGS, AND
SNOW-SHOES:
A JOURNAL OF SIBERIAN TRAVEL AND
EXPL OR A TIONS
MADE IN THE YEAES 1865, 1866, and 1867.

By RICHARD J. BUSH,
LATE OF THE KUSSO- AMEKICAN TELEGKAPH EXPEDITION.

IVITH ILLUSTRATIONS.

NEW YORK:
HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS,
FRANKLIN SQUARE.
I 87 I.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, by
Harper & Brothers,
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

TO THE MEMBERS
OP THE
RUSSO - AMERICAN TELEGRAPH AND EXPLORING EXPEDITIONS
OF THE YEARS 1865, 1866, akd 1867,
STfjis Journal fs most resjectfullj 2Beofcatea
BY THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE.

About four years have elapsed since the completion
of the travels and explorations recorded in the following
pages, and even at this late day it is not without great re
luctance that the author ventures to lay before the public
an account of them ; not that he had deemed such a rec
ord unlikely to attract, through dearth of interesting matter,
but from a lack of confidence in his ability to portray such
matter in a readable, comprehensible, and entertaining man
ner. Nevertheless, in response to the earnest solicitations
of numerous friends, he now launches this volume forth
into the sea of literature, that has been nearly deluging the
senses and drowning the patience of the public of lateyears,
there to sink or swim as the Fates may decree.
The object of his travels, in connection with others, being
merely to make preliminary surveys for the proposed route
of the Russo- American telegraph line, he was unprovided
with the necessary instruments and means of ascertaining
accurately the locations of numerous points mentioned in
the succeeding pages, expecting to fix them more definitely
as the work progressed ; therefore due allowance must be
made for many inaccuracies.
By a perusal of this work, the reader will at once perceive
that it is only intended to convey an idea of what the au
thor himself saw, heard, and endured during his sojourn of
nearly three years in these cold, desolate, and unwritten,
yet interesting regions, large portions of which had never
before been visited by white men. It has not been his aim

vin PREFACE.
to produce a volume valuable in a scientific point of view ;
but if, through this means, he contributes any thing to the
small budget of knowledge already secured concerning
those countries visited by him, or if, after a perusal of this
journal, the reader shall feel compensated for the time con
sumed in reading it, its object will have been fully attained.
The illustrations may be relied upon for accuracy, hav
ing been mostly taken upon the spot by the author him
self. The portraits of the natives of different tribes are all
from life.
San Francisco, April, 1871.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Object of the Expedition. — Route of Line. — Western Union Telegraphic
Company. — Colonel Bulkley, Engineer -in -chief. — Arrival in San Fran
cisco, and Organization of Exploring Parties.- — Major Abasa. — Our De
parture. — The Brig Olga. — Voyage across the Pacific. — Fogs. — Land-ho!
— Volcanoes of Kamtchatka. — Preparations for going Ashore. — Kamt-
chatkan Coast. — -Agreeable Surprise. — Avatcha Bay. — Mr. Flenger. —
News from the World. — Petropaulovski.- — Beautiful Harbor. — Fight with
the Allies. — Population. — ; Early History. — At Anchor. — Esquimaux
Dogs. — Impressions. — Native Politeness. — Kamtchadale Cossacks. — Na
tive Costume. — Greek Church. — Bachelor Establishment. — Peachka. —
Samovar. — Tea. — Captain Soutkovoi and the Ispravnik. — Behring's Mon
ument. — Russian Hospitality. — Ladies Smoking. — Penates. — Prasniks. —
Winter and Summer Amusements. — LaPerouse's Monument. — Wild Flow
ers and Berries. — Battle-ground.- — Volcanic Eruption. — Earthquakes. —
Soldiers' Graves. — Magazine and Cos6ack Sentry. — Fishing Party. —
Priests. — Dissipation. — Kamtchadal Boats. — Timidity. — American and
English Residents. — Pleasures. — Life in Petropaulovski  Page 25
CHAPTER II.
Major Abasa's Plans. — Country to be traversed. — Ho! for the Amoor. — A
Pony-ride. — Kamtchadal Horses and Equipment. — The Start. — Posholl!
Posholl! — In Misery. — An Experiment. — Kamtchatka of our Expecta
tions. — The Reality.- — Fisheries. — Esquimaux Dogs and Crows. ^Along
the Bay. — Hay-making. — Siberian Cows. — Bears and Wolves. — My gen
tle Steed. — The Adjutant. — Avatcha Volcano and Village. — By — ^Thun
der ! — A Siberian Exile. — Distrust. — Way Station. — Cockroaches. — Rem
edy. — Primitive Steam Bath. — Bathing Process. — Ouga. — Return. — False
Alarm. — Equine Gymnastics. — My usual Fate. — Houtre. — Making But
ter. — Home again. — Last Day in Petropaulovski. — Fur Clothing. — Kuk-
lankers. — Torbassa.- — Chazee. — Malachis and Archaniks. — Furs of Kamt
chatka. — " Yassak." — Severe Penalty. — Fur Traders. — Mistaken Impres
sion. — " Yankeeism." — High Rates. — Thunder-storm. — Parting Visits. —
Letters. — Farewell  48
CHAPTER III.
Good-by. — Departure. — Parting Glimpses of Avatcha Bay and Surroundings.
— Fog. — Currents. — Difficult Navigation. — Dead Reckoning. — Breakers
ahead! — Narrow Escape. — Renewed Danger. — Preparations for Land
ing. — A Puff. — At Sea again. — Ushishir and Ketoy Islands. — Simusir. —

x OONTENTS.
Boussole Channel. — Provost Mountain. — Chirnoi Group and Volcanoes. —
The Okhotsk. — Beautiful Weather. — Whales. — Maghalin Island. — La Pe-
rouse Straits. — Danger Rock. — Gale. — Japanese Islands. — Jesso. — Sail
ho! — Gulf of Tartary. — Manchuria.^Mare's Tails and Mackerel Backs. —
De Castries Bay. — Shipping Importance. — Contemplated Canal and Rail
way. — Alexandrofski. — Barracks. — Telegraphic Communication. — Cor
vettes. — Natural Bridge. — Hospitality. — Wire down. — Russian Officers. —
Orders from St. Petersburg. — Inland Route. — Preparations for Journey. —
Scarcity of Horses. — Queer Substitute. — Soldiers. — Mount Arbod. — Start;
— Rain. — Bad Roads. — Beregovoi Hills. — Deck Passages, Shipwrecks, and
Chop Sea.. — Lake Kidzi. — Tederovsk. — Soldier Station-keepers. — Gilaks.
— Appearance and Dress. — Interior of Hut. — Deference.— Hospitality. —
Unappreciative  Page 64
CHAPTER IV.
At Tederovsk. — Gloomy Prospects. — Route to Yevetevo Station. — Our Con
veyance. — Arrival ofthe Soldiers. — Off again. — Dismal. — Dangerous Po
sition. — Terra firma. — A Night Tramp along the Shores of the Lake. —
Hard Traveling. — Darkness. — Exhaustion. — Wading the Lake. — Hope and
Disappointment. — One more Effort. — The Signal. — The Boat. — Arrival
at Yevetevo. — The Station. — Our Repast. — Cockroaches. — Appetites. —
Dissatisfied Boatman.- — Brick Tea. — Off for Vlademirsk. — The Scene. —
Vlademirsk. — No Boat. — Russian Soldiers. — Obliging Officer. — The De
tail. — Barge. — Admirable Traits. — Boshniak. — Marinsk. — Gilak Lotka.
— The Commandant. — Contrast. — Mr. Rosenheim. — Disappointment — A
Dilemma. — Extrication. — Poor Accommodations.- — Russian Hospitality.
—Indolent Males. — Brutality toward the Weaker Sex.— The Boat. — De
parture. — The Amoor. — Gilaks. — Habitations.— Subsistence.— Salmon.—
Women Rowing. — Scenery ofthe Amoor  79
CHAPTER V.
Kada. — Irkoutsk. — Post-station. — Horses, Cows, etc. — Freshets. — Old
Pole's Misfortune. —Improvidence. —Neatness. —American Appetites. —A
Passenger.— Primitive Plow, Anchors, etc.— Departure.— Perfection of
Traveling.— Summer Eve on the Amoor.— Our Soldier Boatmen. — Music.
— Reticent Soldier. — Mystery solved. — Storm. — Lightning and Gale. 
Darkness.— Search for Land. — Unpleasant Prospects. — Shelter.— Fishing
Camp.— Unwelcome Sight.— Spirits at Zero.— The Hut.— Russian Hospi
tality again.— A commendable Trait.— A Night's Experience.— The Fat
Captain. — Poor Mahood. — Indignation. — Off again. — Scenery.  Gilak
Hats.— Mikhaelofski. — Highlands. —Gilaks Fishing. — Tartar Monuments,
etc.— Gilak Settlement. — Camp-fire.— Gilak Endurance. — Clothing. —Su
perstitions. — Religion. — Shamans. — Funeral Rites. — Barbarity.  Murder
and Punishment. — Weapons. — Habitations — Good Natures. — Curiosity 
Invoking the Gods.— Drifting.— Drowsy Crew.— On Shore.— Gilak Tab
leaux. — Storks. — Grampuses. — Steamer. — Shipping. — Nikolayefsk. 
Seines and Traps  g2
CHAPTER VI.
Nikolayefsk.— Origin.— Location.— Fortifications.— Appearance.— Gilak En
campments. —Church and Chancellerie.— Dravs.— Mr. Chase.— American
Assemblage.— Surprise.— Prasniks or Holidays.— His Excellency Admiral
Kazakevitch.— Suspension of Labor.— Difficulties of Building.— Church

CONTENTS. xi
Services. — Intoxication. — Lafkas. — Population. — Foreign Merchants. —
Guilds. — Starastas. — Houses. — Port Buildings. — Machinery. — Foundry.
— Messrs. Barr, Woods, and Elliott. — Barracks. — Club-rooms. — Mails.—
Newspaper. — Schools.— Park. — Band. — Amusing Manner of Organizing.
— Trades. — Arrival of Admiral Furruhelm. — Reception. — Parades.— Ban
quet. — Toasts. — Tossing the Governor, — Distinguished Honor. — Ball. —
Ladies Vanish. — Musketry. — Disconsolate Males. — Dearth of Information.
— Captains Lindholm and Swartz. — OrellLake. — Solavaoff. — Tungusians.
— Rewards. — Yakov. — Discouraging Assurances. — The Gonets. — Our So
journ. — Friends.— Valuable Assistance  Page 106
CHAPTER VII.
Departure from Nikolayefsk. — Farewell. — Prophecies of our Friends.. —
Scarcity of Reindeer. — Mr. Swartz.- — Yakov. — Outfit and Provision. —
Steamer Gonets. — Up the Amoor. — Margah. — Pilots. — First Ice. — Palvo.
—Intricate Channels. — Cleaving through the Ice.- — Consultation. — Ne
cessity of pushing ahead. — Snow. — Aground. — Lost in the Storm. — De
feat and Retreat. — Despondency. — Fishing Camp. — Weather moderating.
— Rain. — Yakout Pilots. — Fresh Start. — Ice. — Frightened and rebellious-
Crew. — Open Water. — Orell Lake. — Strong Breeze. — At the Rendezvous.
— Gilak Encampment. — No Deer.- — Distant Shouts heard. — Mahood's
Cruise. — Leaky and smoky Tent. — Our Neighbors. — Shelter. — Cradle. —
Industry. — Dogs. — Filthiness. — Sacred Grounds. — News of the Deer. —
Party in Search. — Rain. — Game, Fish, and Ukale. — The Gilaks. — Alone.
' — First Reindeer. — Disappointment. — Their Appearance. — Deer-riding. —
A queer Sight. — Experience of the'Party. — Mikhaeloff and Constantine.
— Tungusians. — Physiognomy. — Customs, Dress, etc. — Deer Feed and
Feeding-grounds. — Departure of the Yakouts. — Parting Salutations. —
Reverence. — Our Commissariat.— Preparations for the Journey. — Deer-
packing and Saddles. — Weak Backs. — Cautiousness. — Remarkable Feat
of Strength  116
CHAPTER VIII.
Packing up. — Riding Deer. — A Tableau. — Impressive Ceremony. — Yakov
in Danger. — Mounting the Deer. — Mishaps. — The Polka. — Russian Mode
of Riding Deer. — Our Journey commenced. — Disgraceful Fall.- — The
Country. — Making Camp. — Tardy Start. — Lassoing Deer. — The Lariat. —
Swamp Land. — Cranberries. — Wild Reindeer. — The Birpocoon. — Curious
Mound. — Refractory Pack-deer. — Mikhaeloff's Cure. — The Yasmall. —
Rain. — Camp. — Hunting Grouse. — Success. — Constantine's Shelter. —
Tungusian Mode of Sleeping. — The Sabbath. — Diluted Alcohol. — Our Vis
itors. — Eating Hair-oil. — Still Raining. — Making Portraits. — Humanity
in the Wilderness. — Sheared. — Natives. — The Stars. — More Rain. —
Bridge-building. — Luna  133
CHAPTER IX.
En Route. — Flooded Marshes.— Bad Traveling.— Poor Deer.— Labor of
Riding. — A Race. — Impressions on Deer-riding. — Yakov's Ingenuity. — A
novel Boot-jack. — Maimed Deer.— Old Man's Head. — Mikhaeloff's bad
Shooting. — The Mystery solved. — Mahood's Mishap. — Deer-doctoring. —
More Rain. — Snow. — Contrast. — Vanguard of Winter. — The Chimcha-
galee. — The Male Grouse. — Tungusian Mode of Hunting. — Mikhaeloff's
Sickness. — The Remedy and Effect. — Our Camp. — Sable Grounds.— The

xu CONTENTS.
Divide.— First View of Usalghin Bay.— The Sololoucan.— Long Day's
Journey. — Broken Thermometer.— The Usalghin River.— Curious Mud
Mounds. — Ptarmigan and Cranberries. — Departure of Guides after a
Boat. — Desolation. — No Boat. — Shelters for Deer from Musquitoes. — A
Feast at Night.— Luxury and the Price. — Bridging. — Sol's Condescen
sion.— Rafting the River.— A pretty Sight.— Better Traveling.— First
Frostbites.— Ten Degrees Fahrenheit below Zero. — Tracks of Wild Ani
mals. — Tungusian Trail. — Deserted Camp.— Death of the Deer. — Cache'.
—Native Honesty. — The Ulban.— On the Ice. — Frozen Lakes.— Crystal
Carpets. — The Seran. — Jivarack. — Tugur Valley  Page 143
CHAPTER X.
Approaching Tugur. — History of Tugur. — Early Settlement. — Cossack Ad
venturers. — Tungusian Encampment. — Beauty and Indifference. — Cos
tume. — Manner of Riding. — The Contine. — Tugur. — Disappointment. —
Sable - hunting. — The sole Inhabitant. — Tugur River. — The Hut. — End
of first Journey. — Yakout Settlement. — Hospitable Reception.- — The Ya-
kouts. — Yakoutsk. — Torbassa. — The Samovar. — A Lily in the Desert. —
Tungusian Starasta. — Bargaining for Deer. — Vassilly and Eoff. — Pur
chasing Clothing and Bedding.- — Fresh Beef. — Smoky Tent. — Departure
of Mikhaeloff and Constantine. — A Love Mission. — A big Price. — Court
ship and Marriage among the Tungusians. — Our tipsy Friends. — Off again.
— The Algocan. — Snow-storm. — Weak Eyes. — Our new Deer. — The Mal-
mazine. — Deep Snow and difficult Traveling. — Snow-shoes. — Yakov's Con
fidence. — Curiosity. — Natives in Distress.' — Amusing Scene. — Aria Hills.
— Deep Snow. — Deer-trail. — Gradual Ascent. — Natural Amphitheatre. —
Difficult and dangerous Climb. — Avalanches. — Our good Fortune. — A glo
rious View. — The Descent. — Difficulty in Mounting. — Provoking Experi-
' ence. — Open Camp. — Stampede of Deer. — Poor Eoff ! — The Aria.... 155
CHAPTER XI.
Approaching Solavaoff's. — Valley ofthe Aria. — Sougyol River. — Tungusian
Fishermen and Fish-traps. — The Settlement. — Cattle-raising. — Distinc
tion. — Valuable Service and Reward. — Yakout Yourt. — Windows. —
Chual. — Penates and Samovar. — Meeting old Friends. — Filth, Destitu
tion, and Industry. — The Belle of the Village. — A trying Ordeal. — Es
cape from the Dilemma. — Additional Annoyances. — Departure. — Torum
River. — Tungusian Grave. — Wolf-tracks. — Necessary Precautions. — Sibe
rian Wolves. — Habits. — Mode of Capture. — The Wolf-pen. — Disagreeable
Proximity of the Animals. — Tela Hills. — Prospect. — Elbow and Shantar
Islands. — First View of the Juygur Mountains. — Forest Trees. — Great
and Small Tela Rivers. — Journey by Moonlight. — Crooked Trails. — Uda
River. — Algasee. — Our Reception. — Old Guilioff. — A hideous Object. —
Horses as Food. — Dainty Portions. — Meeting of Yakov and Guilioff. —
John Brown among the Tungusians. — Swartz's Adventure. — At Sea on
the Ice. — Imminent Danger. — Hunger and Thirst. — Mental Agony. —
Providential Escape. — Feeding Dogs for the Journey  171
CHAPTER XII.
Swartz's Blunder.— Daybreak. — Exciting Scene. —Preparations for our first
Dog-ride. — Enthusiasm of Dogs. — The Narta, or Sled. — Manner of har
nessing and guiding Dogs.— The Ostle.— A crestfallen Animal.— Load
ing Sleds. — The Start, and Jump-off Place. — Contrast. — Dog Character.

CONTENTS. xiii
— Clannishness, Rivalry, etc. — A Melee and its Consequences. — Halts. —
The Uda River and Surroundings.— Tea and Ukale. — Ukale for Road Use.
— A Fox-chase. — Oudskoi at Night. — Astonishment ofthe Inhabitants. —
The Ispravnik's House. — Agreeable Surprise. — Our cordial Reception. —
Vodki. — The Priest and his Antics. — Supper. — A sacrilegious Stratagem.
— Oudskoi Society and Customs.— The Town by Daylight. — The Greek
Church and Service. — Mockery. — Simple-minded Natives. — A bamboozled
Sergeant. — The Priesthood. — Father Ivan's House and Family. — Our Quar
ters. — A Vechourka. — The Elite. — Music. — Dances. — An embarrassing
Position. — Early Recollections. — Vodki and Tea. — Ball Costume. — Snow-
shoes and Snow-shoe Practice. — The Polka. — Successful Slide and Super
natural Agency  Page 184
CHAPTER XIII.
Russian Steam Bath. — Its Effects. — Our Quarters. — Temperature. — The
Saints as Bankers. — Thievish Propensities of Natives, and Superstitious
Notions. — A peculiar Disease. — Heartless Proceeding. — Taken by Sur
prise. — A helpless Victim. — Remedy. — Horse-meat Experiment. — Eating
Entrails. — Ispravnik's Disinclination to aid us. — Dispatch Tungusians
after Deer. — Arrival of Yakout Caravan. — Our good Luck. — A great Oc
casion. — Baptismal Ceremony. — Mahood's Predicament. — Spitting upon
the Devil. — Russian Names. — Congratulations. — Duties of Godfathers. —
Great Prasnik. —Patron Saint of Siberia. — Name's Days. — Celebration. —
Story of Saint Innocentia. — The Starobradets. — Miraculous Interposition.
— Saint Nikolai's Day and Salute. — Blessing Images. — Religious Farce. —
Rascally Priests. — Tungusians return. — No Guides. — Mainukan Route. —
Discouragements. — Our intended Route. — Fresh Outfit. — Frozen Milk. —
Ivan's Departure with Deer. — A farewell Vechourka  200
CHAPTER XIV.
A Russian Parting. — Cossack Parade and Parting Salute. — A Night Jour
ney. — Tungusian Hunter. — Deer devoured by Wolves. — Off for Ajan.- —
Along the Sea-shore. —The Cliffs. — Ice-bench. — Difficult Passage. — Anti-
kan River. — Christmas Eve. — A Winter Camp Scene. — Difficult Journal
izing. — The Day's Journey. — Goram River. — Unfavorable Prospect.- —
Christmas. — Cold and difficult Traveling. — A fruitless Effort. — Our In
tentions. — Grand Scenery. — Cache' and Fox-trap. — Scurvy. — A Consulta
tion and Conclusion. — Arduous Traveling. — Burned Land. — Activity es
sential. — Uncertainty. — Frostbites. — The coldest yet. — Telefont and his
Scurvy.— Routine of Camping. — Thawing out. — "Chigotova." — Source
of the Goram. — On the Summit of the Juggur. — The View. — Difficult
Descent. — Misled by Wild Deer. — Another hard Climb. — Swollen An
kle  213
CHAPTER XV.
Indications of a Poorga. — Signs of an Encampment. — Deserted Camp. —
Signals. — Lost Trail. — Hunters' Camp on the Maimikan.- — Charge of
Reindeer. — Tungusian Beauty. — Alexai. — Engaging a Guide. — New-
year's Day. — Celebration. — Making Calls. — The Tent. — Beautiful Phe
nomenon. — Mock Moons. — New-year's Dinner. — False Alarm. — Cold
Weather. ¦ — On the Back Track. — Driving Snow. — Lobla River. — Aston
ishing eating Capacity. — A Tungusian Supper. — Improvidence. — The
Yakouts as Eaters. — Cruel Mode of killing Horses. — Fox-traps. — The

xiv CONTENTS.
Goram again.— The Econda River.— Keen Scent of Reindeer. — Kedrov-
nik.— Crossing Kela Khrebet.— Cutting Wind and Frostbites.— Snow-
shoeing.— Undermined.— Crashing through the Ice. — Neamur River and
Valley. — Ephraim Caramsin, the Bear-hunter. — Light Snow. — Method of
Snaring Bears. — Mountain Sheep  Page 225
CHAPTER XVI.
Remarkable Endurance of Natives. — Meat Cache. — Encampment. — Sappho
— her Self-possession. — Tungusian Toys.— Artistic Talent. — The Test. —
Ephraim's Return. — Siberian Squirrels. — Tungusian Guns. — Economy. —
Trying Bear-meat. — Bestowing a Present. — The Consequences. — Ingrati
tude. — Reindeer Tongues. — Sheep-horn Spoons.— My first frozen Nose. —
Stupid Proceeding. — A tender Organ. — Precautions. — Mukta River. —
Orowa. — Monotony. — Daily Programme. — Diana and her Nymphs. —
Band of Tungusians. — Conveyance of Children. — Child's Costume. —
Naugtara River. — Squalls and driving Snow. — Tent down. — Warm Day.
— Maimai. — Hungry Deer. — Flight of a Nymph. — Ouey Khrebet. — Long,
hard Journey. — Post-road abandoned. — Our Anxiety. — The Station. — A
mixed-up Mess. — Exhausted. — Retire  235
CHAPTER XVII.
Our good Fortune. — Privilege of an Explorer.- — Undignified Pranks. — Ex
hausted Deer. — The Post-road. — Mail. — Reindeer and Sleds. — Summer
Journeying. — The Sea. — Ajan Bay. — First View of Ajan. — The Town. —
Beautiful Locality. — Vandalism. — Mr. Popoff, Police - master. — Siberian
Nectar. — Native Reports verified.- — Hospitality. — Promptness and Gener
osity. — More Discouragements. — Ajan of the Past. — Palmy Days of the
Okhotsk.- — Scarcity of Provisions. — Medicinal Wants. — Settling with
Guides. — Seeking Quarters. — Faded Grandeur. — Ajan Amusements. —
Nikolaiovna, the Cossack Widow. — An ungallant Plot. — The Vechourka.
— Music. — Personal Experience. — Astounding Endurance. — Badly Worst
ed. — My insatiable Partner. — Fine Prospects. — The Peninsula. — Mount
Miak. — A difficult and dangerous Climb. — My Imprudence. — A glorious
View. — Disagreeable Altitude. — Frozen Hands. — The Descent  245
CHAPTER XVIII.
Anxiety to start. ¦ — Abandoned Project. — Arrival of Tungusians. — Procure
Deer. — Excursion with Reindeer and Sleds. — The Cavern. — Our Indebt
edness to the Residents. — Departure. — Night Journey. — The Slides. —
Sharpsightedness. — Capsize. — My flying Driver. — A glorious Ride. —
Reindeer Speed. — Reach the Station. — Romann Caramsin. —Settled Tun
gusians. — Character, Religion, etc. — Government. — Aristocracy. — -Careful
Reception. • — Bottomless Stomachs. — New Guides. - — Medusa. — Change
Route. — Aldemir River. — Tungusian Piety. — Road-breaking Deer. — Dog
Trail. — Micache. — Ilpangee. — Light Snow. — The Toucha. — Oulinkan. —
Conflagrations. — The Cachee River. — Tungusian Offerings. — Mahood's
Contribution. — Sunday. — Hard Traveling. — Ascent of the Juggur. — The
Divide. — Dissimilarity in Country. — Multan. — Level Country. — Mount
Bulkley. — Ulkan. — On the Trot. — Improvement in Deer. — Viciousness. —
Medusa's Discomfiture  ,  259
CHAPTER XIX.
Alarming Considerations. — Health. — Prospects of Sickness. — Ptarmigan
again. — Black Cocks. — Feeding-grounds. — Arrival at Yourt. — Sojourn. 

CONTENTS. xv
Epicurean Repast. — Wealthy Native. — ¦ Liquor. — Bear- spears. — Bear-
traps, etc. — Under the Weather. — Yalbandya. — Tota. — Deserted Camp. —
Fish-traps, etc.- — A beautiful Sunset. — Peculiar Passion of the Reindeer,
and Manner in which the Natives profit by it. — Menmoioon Mountain. —
False Alarm. — Neotl River. — Half-way House. — Deserted. — Tents and
Reception. — News ofthe Major.— Cossack and Dispatches. — Style of Tent.
— Caldron. — Native Hospitality. — Killing the fatted Deer. — A Native
Repast. — Mode of Eating. — Tungusian Ugliness.: — A brace of Beauties. —
Costume. — The Charm destroyed. — 36° minus Fahrenheit. — A Night with
the Natives. — Miakan. — Elikan. — Deceived. — Tungusian Settlement. —
Old Ivan the Starasta. — A Great-grandfather. — Tea. — A well-deserved
Rebuke. — Difficult Conversation. — French in Disrepute. — Mode of killing
Deer. — Esquimaux Game of Ball. — Shamanism. — Original Creed. — Good
and Evil Spirits. — Condition of Uncertainty. — Worthless Priests. — Shaman
Incantations. — Shyness. — Rascality. — Miraculous Cure. — The Price. — Ar
rival of Cossack Sergeant. — News of our old Companions. — Successful Ex
plorations  Page 273
CHAPTER XX.
Herding Deer. — Nightly Detail. — Separating the Herd. — A Charge. — Our.
Caravan. — Arteran River. — Asungorun. — Colowinga Ridge. — Trouble
some Deer.— Deermanship. — Guides desire a Halt. — Deceptions.— Snap
ping Morning. — Our Tent at Daybreak. — Morning Routine. — Striking
Fire. — Justifiable Profanity. — A bejeweled Landscape. — Forty-six De
grees below Zero. — Early Start. — Asungorun. — Burned Tract. — Nuednice.
— A dead Forest. — Parhelia. — Ounene.- — Mertee.— Mixed-up Geography.
— Alexai's Brother. — Deserted Yourt. — Dispatch Messengers. — Their Suc
cess. — The Convention.- — Meeting ofthe Brothers. — Undemonstrativeness.
—A Night Search. — A frigid Region. — Mahood's Departure. — Arrival of
Deer. — On the Road again. — Horseshoe Course. — Mahood's Camp. — Ele
vated Lands. — Across the Juggur. — Contrast. — Descent. — Urta River. —
Encampment. — Tala. — Umka. — A Treat. — Military Necessity. — Coulom-
kan. — Long and last Journey with Reindeer. — Dogs again. — Down the
Oulia. — Sled from Ourak. — Departure for Ourak. — Swartz as Rear-guard.
— Along the Coast. — Poorga Guides. — Ourak. — Habitations. — The Ya-
kouts. — Character. — Appearance. — Early History. — Ending our Task. —
Okhotsk. — Disappointment. — Desolation. — Okhota River. — History. —
Summer Sports. — Fish  288
CHAPTER XXI.
Another Journey. — A comparatively pleasure Trip. — Short Notice. — Start. —
Last View of Okhotsk. — Pavoshkas. — Luxurious Traveling. — Our Teams.
— Indications of the Approach of Spring. — Tundra Hummocks. — The Sea.
— Salt Ice. — First Duck. — Post-yourt. — Ena. — Fast Traveling. — Our Re
ception. — Change Dogs. — Native Curiosity. — Politeness. — The Town. —
Poorga Indications. — Start. — Tumoff River. — The Poorga. — Frightened
Drivers. — Moral Persuasion. — Climbing the Mountain. — Sleds Lost. —
Pavoshka Traveling. — Lost in the Storm. — Dismayed Drivers. — A Lull.
— The Summit. — Furious Descent. — Timely Precaution. — Narrow Escape.
— Broken Sled. — Snow Caverns and Precipices. — Overhanging Masses.- —
Dangerous Traveling. — Fish Deposits. — Team -dogs. — Distemper. — Te
dious Traveling. — Sled - road. — Cowey River. — Snow - squalls. — Road
Lunches. — Imperial Ermine. — Dead Dogs. — Late Traveling. — Tausk Bay.
— Hummocks. — Cutting our Way. — Repairing Sleds. — Tausk  304

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXII.
Tausk.— Population. — Tausk Bay.— Peeping.— Frank Leslie's and Harper's
Pictorials. — Government Postilion.- — News from Kennan. — Value of Er
mine. — -Ermine Traps. — Departure for Dobratown. — A lazy Team and
more lazy Driver. — Knowledge of ' ' American. " — Annan. — Lamut Chiefs.
— Native Livelihood. — Decoration. — Improvidence. — Amusing Idea of
Telegraph. — Dosing the Sick. — Disease. — A Band at Sea. — Armani. —
Conflict between Dcgs and Deer. — The Polog.— Seal-oil Lamps. — Jour
ney to Yamsk. — Forced Traveling. — Dogs in Boots. — Ice and Bone
Sled-runners. — Agates. —Tinder. — Mode of making Fire. — Canine Char
acter and Peculiarities. — Leader's Sagacity. — Night Journey. — Buried
in the Snow. — Resurrecting. — Misplaced Confidence. — Yamsk. — Industry
of settled Koraks. — A Poorga. — Along the Coast. — Toumane. — Outra
geous Impudence. — Ce chas. — Famished Dogs. — Postilion's Mishap. — A
starvnig Community. — Criminal Negligence. — Annual Famines. — Abun
dance of Fish. — Government Aid. — Laziness. — Reliance upon the La-
muts  Page 315
CHAPTER XXIII.
Departure from Toumane. — Villiga Mountains. — Piety. — A wise Swallow.
— Passing the Ridge. — Villiga River. — A night Journey. — Lost. — A Yourt
full of Snow. — Surprising Endurance of Dogs. — Tavatoma River. — Hot
Springs.- — Niakhana. — News from Kennan. — His Exploration of the An
adyr. — Party rescued. — Uneasiness for Macrae and Arnold. — Ghijigha
Gulf and River. — Ghijigha. — Journey ended. — District Head-quarters. —
Early History. — Affanassa Shestakova.- — Inhabitants.— Occupations and
Amusements. — Fur Trade. — Easter Preparations. — Swinging. — Feasting
and Fasting. — Easter Services. — Midnight Surprise. — Kennan, Macrae,
and Arnold. — Macrae's Party and Experiences. — Late Arrival. — Building
Cabin. — Fuel. — Winter. — Unenviable Position.— Trying Uncertainty. —
Okakrae. — Tchuctchus. — Bargaining by Signs. — Macrae and Robinson's
Adventure. — Life and Death. — Its Consequences. — -Arrival of Okakrae. —
Wewoki. — Departure of Macrae and Arnold. — Annoying Slowness. — Ar-
nora River. — Overhearing Treatment. — Tchuetchu Conclave. — Deer-chief.
— Threatened Abandonment. — Questionable Diet. — At Anadyrsk. — Sur
prise. — Kennan's Adventures and Travels. — Dodd. — Explorations com
pleted. — Approaching Spring. — Appointments. — Preparations to depart
again.— Our Sleds  330
CHAPTER XXIV.
Departure from Ghijigha. — Mplmofka River. — Yakout Yourt. — Purchasing
Milk. — Dogs and Cow. — Yourt. — The Tundra. — Snow-blindness. — Deso
lation. — Usinova River. — Paren. — Eagles' Nests. — Early Start. — Poorga.
— First View of Coeil. — A close Race. — Coeil. — Strange Buildings. -^-Pa
gan Sacrifices. — Seeking an Entrance. — Interior. — Zda-ro-o-o-va. — Cal
drons. — Curiosity. — Seat of Honor. — Vermin. — Koraks. — Appearance.
— Costume. • — Character. — Korak Meal. — Grunting. — Trading. — Korak
Dance. — The Town. — Population. — Fuel. — Civilized Koraks. — Settled
Koraks. — Reindeer -men. — Living. — Boats. — Weapons. — Snow - shoes. —
Worship. — Passion for strong Drink. — Muek-a-moor. — Method of becom
ing Intoxicated. — Marriage Ceremony. — One-sided Affair. — No Dog-food.
—Shooting with Bows and Arrows. — Insensibility. — Narrow Escape. —
Running and Wrestling. — Start. — Meekina. — Inhospitable Reception. —

CONTENTS. - xvii
Shestakova Settlement and River. — Ice-bridges. — Shestakova Khrebet. —
Cold Traveling. — Snow Encampment. — Night Costume. — Aklan River. —
Fish and Game. — Resuscitating Dogs. — Severe Remedy  Page 347
CHAPTER XXV.
More Tundra. — Ooscanina Mountain. — Worn-out Dogs. — Mystery Solved.
— Ineffectual Scolding. — A good Ruse. — Ooscanina Rivers. — Ishiginski
Mountain. — Valley of the Penjina. — A fearful Poorga. — Scattered Sleds.
— A Night-search.— Penjina. — Anadyrsk Sleds.- — Proposed Exploration
of the Myan. — Serious Obstacles. — The Start. — Slavotna River.— Laceitsa
Soapka. — The Myan. — Mount Polpol. — A Mirage. — Strange Illusion. —
Dancing City. — Polpol River. — Korak Trail. — Snow-storm. — Poorga
Camp.: — Polog. — Hunting Wood. — Stormy Night. — Hunting Koraks. —
Success. — Reindeer Koraks.- — Character and Appearance. — Great Wealth.
— Government. — Lords and Retainers. — The Value of Reindeer. — Their
Uses. — Sonkees. — Advantages of Fish as Dog-food. — Fearful Poorga. —
May-day. — Keeping Awake. — Provoking Deception. — Off again. — More
Poorga. — Return River. — Seeking Shelter. — Roast-rib Camp. — The Myan.
— Thawing. — Day Halts. — A tender Organ. — Remedy for Snow-blindness.
— Orlof ka River. — Abasa River. — Swans and Bear-tracks. — Game. — Sled-
tracks. — Our Speculations. — Nature of Country. — Traveling. —Prospect
Bluff. — Night-thaw. — Laluma. — Exhaustion. — Overtaken. — Last Fish. —
Olgan River.— Telegraph Bluff.- — Anadyr Valley. — Crepast. : — Close of
Journey  363
CHAPTER XXVI.
Crepast. — Early History of Anadyrsk. — Deshnew. — Simeon Motora. — Chii-
ansees and Ukagirs. — Expeditions against the Tchuctchus. — Pawlutzki. —
Native Legends. — Present Inhabitants. — Markova. — Programme ofWork.
— Instructions ofthe Ispravnik. — Koschevin. — Departure of Major Abasa.
— Newfoundland Dog " Cook." — His Siberian Experiences. — Spring Sup
plies. — Expeditions to purchase Deer. — Timber Belt.- — Grouse and Grouse-
traps. — Our opportune Arrival. — Upper Anadyr. — Protoks and Islands.
— Myan and Vaccarana Protoks. — Purchasing Huts. — Vetkas. — Esqui
maux Pup "Nik." — Geese and Swans. — Carbasses. — Native Summer
Costume. — Cornelius. — Return of -Meat-seekers.— Off for the Myan. — In
structions to Koschevin. — Dangerous Ice-traveling. — Building Station. —
Discouraging News.— Goose-hunting. — Arrival of Priest. — Tolstekhin's
Sufferings. — Fates against us. — Cutting Poles. — Break-up of the Myan.
— -Departure for Markova. — Water-fowl. — Perpetual Day. — Midnight
Sunset. — Thunder. — Contrast. — Regularity of Nature. — Break-up of the
Anadyr. — Grandeur. — Relic of Paganism.— Flood. — Starvation. — Dog
eat Dog. — Clubbing Rabbits. — Constructing Rafts. — Afloat  382
CHAPTER XXVII.
Proposed Voyage. — Rafting down the Anadyr. — Collision. — Assistance from
Markova. — A wild Night 's»Ride. — Longest Day. — Entering the Protok.
— Flooded Country. — Vaccarana Protok. — Reduced Rations. — Native
Stomachs. — Watches. — A Swim. — Astonished Natives. — Avaram's Swim
ming. — Character of Inhabitants. — Timidity. — Ducks and Eggs. — Ava
ram's Adventure. — " Kamuk !" — Slow Progress. — Winding Course. —
Horse-hair Nets. — "Nik" and Kiote. — Vaccarana. — Whitefish. — The
Myan again. — Wild Deer. — Preparations for Spearing them. — Foiled.—
B

xviii CONTENTS.
Manner of Spearing. — Skill. — Disappointment.— Camp of Natives. — Re
plenishing our Larder. — Musquitoes. — Deep Water. — Petrified Wood and
Mammoth Tusks. — Deer Migrations. — Mouth of theMyan. — MarkovaPeo-
ple. — Feasting. — Halt. — At the Lee of an Island. — Pleasure of Rafting.- —
Sunset and Sunrise. — Wild Deer.— Giving Chase.— Bidera and Bidarka.
— Baillee, or White River. — Origin of Name. — Meat-hunting. — Fish.—
Wild Flowers. — Expedition up the Baillee. — Quicksilver. — Annoying
Winds.— Fresh Meat.— Provision Gone.— Running the " Thousand Isles."
—The River.— Exciting Chase after Deer. — The Death. — Tchuctchu Ya-
rangas. — Bideras. — Yan-den-kow's Liberality. — An Invitation. — Tents.
— Jerking Meat. — A Feast. — Parting Presents. — Oochostika. — Building
winter Yourts. — Musquitoes. — Swollen Faces. — Sufferings of Dogs. —
Moske. — Mocrusa. — Harder's Return and Success. — Asbestus. — Cop
per  Page 399
CHAPTER XXVIII.
From Oochostika. — Nature of the River. — Dispatching Message. — Tchi-
kiowa. — Russian Relics. — Bears. — Mikhael Ivanitchr — Krasnia River. —
Phillepaeos. — Bolshoi Osero. — Telegraph Bluff. — Leaving Yourts. — Raft
Ashore. — Deer. — Smith's Departure. — Chimcha Mountain. — Last of the
Raft. — Ticklish Position.— The Blue Boat. — Smith's Indignation and
Story. — Tchuctchus breaking open Camp. — Devastation. — Pleasant Sail.
— Camp Macrae. — Dismal Locality. — Currants. — Remains of Houses. —
Tchuctchu Graves. — Musquitoes. — Reduced Circumstances. — Clubbing
and Spearing Wild Geese. — Mac on a Wild-goose Chase. — Goose-spears.
— Geese not Geese. — Priest's Arrival. — Buying Converts. — Expedition to
the Tchuctchus. — Macrae's Reception. — Okakrae.— Drinking Liniment.
— Building the Hut. — Tchuctchu Idea of Swimmers. — Our Revolvers. —
Tchuctchus : Appearance, Language, Character, Customs, Religion, etc. —
Killing the Aged. — Spartan Heroism. — Story ofthe old Chief. — Shaman's
Jugglery. — Weapons of Offense and Defense. — Towing Boats. — Smoking.
— Strange and Economical Pipes.- — Eating Nicotine. — Return of Priest. —
Instructions to Koschevin. — Non-arrival of Vessels. — Without Food and
Raiment  415
CHAPTER XXIX.
Life at Camp Macrae. — Surprise. — News of Steamer Wright. — Labonrne
and Whymper. — Excursion to the Steamer. — Salute. — First Sight of a
Vessel. — Dogs. — Awe-stricken. — Anadyr Bay and Gulf. — Golden Gate
Bay. — Voyage to Plover Bay. — The Bay. — Tchuctchu Settlement. —
Nightingale and Rutgers. — Station-building. — North Coast Natives. —
Habitations. — Bideras. — Food. — Traders. — Hunting the Walrus. — A
Tchuctchu Gathering. — Preparing to Kill an Old Man. — Unconcern. —
Nan-Kum's Explanation. — Modes of Killing. — Knowledge of Anatomy. —
Native Notion of the Custom. — River Steamers. — Arrival of Barque Gold
en Gate. — Departure for the Anadyr. — Steamer Wade. — Gate aground.
— Choosing a Site. — Wade at Work. — Approaching Winter. — Discharg
ing. — Barque afloat again. — Loss ofthe Scow. — Wade River. — Prepared
for Winter. — First Snow. — Ice forming. — Attempted Escape ofthe Barque.
— Aground again. — Heavy Ice. — Wade in Danger. — Frozen up. — Last
Trip of the Season. — Breaking our way Ashore. — :Wade beached by the
Ice. — Damage sustained. — Gate Wrecked. — Flight of the Crew. — Dan
gerous Passage. — Alarming State of Affairs. — Volunteers to the Wreck.
— Saving the Food. — Gloomy Prospects. — A valuable Acquisition. — Quar-

CONTENTS. six
ters for the Crew. — Station-building. — Farnam's Gash. — Library. — Our
Quarters. — Eager for the Fray. — Reducing Rations. — Station Regulations.
— Details. — Observations. — Our Guests. — Former Residents  Page 431
CHAPTER XXX.
Anxiety. — Hope and Fear. — Possible Resources. — Dubiousness. — Foot-par
ty to Camp Macrae. — Success. — Tchuctchu Ideas of our Object. — Explain
ing. — Day of Rejoicing. — Arrival ofthe Herd. — Bargaining. — Killing the
Deer. — Grubs. — Our Mirrors. — Arrival of Anadyrsk Sleds. — Famine and
Distemper. — Off for Anadyrsk. — The Poorga. — Dismay of a New-comer.
— Death of Dogs. — Telegraph Bluff. — Oochostika. — Yandenkow again. —
Our Champion. — Trading Wives. — At Markova. — Pitiable Condition of
Inhabitants. — No Fish, no Deer, no Grouse, no Dogs. — Famines. — Cos
sacks after Deer. — Start for Ghijigha. — Kennan. — Encouraging News. —
More Expeditions for Deer. — Native Endurance of Hunger. — Lamentable
Circumstance. — Simple-mindedness. — Notion of Time and Age. — 111
Health. — Confidence. — A Caravan for the Sea. — Supplies from Penjina. —
Last Communication. — Arrival of Jared Norton. — A bitter Cold Snap.: —
G8i° minus. — Sufferings of our Men. — Effects of Extreme Cold. — Christmas
Holidays. — Famished Dancers. — Ousting the Devil. — Deer in Penjina. —
Koraks and Deer. — Disappointments. — Trading Season. — Absence of
Tchuctchus. — Last Hope of the Inhabitants. — Macrae. — News from Bush's
Station. — Death of Robinson. — Sad Circumstances. — Dismantling the
Wreck. — The Fate of Nik. — Young's Adventure with Wolves. — A badly-
scaredMan  450
CHAPTER XXXI.
Telegraph-building under Difficulties. — Departure of Macrae for the Myan.
— Supplies in Penjina. — Stock on hand. — Non-arrival of Sleds from Ghi
jigha. — Surmises. — Off for the Okhotsk.- — Penjina deserted. — Mr. Jared
Norton. — Arrangement with Cossacks. — The Journey. — At Ghijigha. —
Arnold in Trouble. — Departure of Supplies for the Myan. — Poorga. — .Lost.
— Return. — Fresh Start. — Arrival of Anadyrsk and Penjina Sleds. — Squar
ing Accounts. — Gambling Priests. — Difficulty of obtaining Transportation.
— Home Journey. — Sanford's Cache' and the Bears. — Penjina open. —
Anadyrsk Sleds. — Alarm for the Myan Party.- — No News. — Failures. —
Supplies to the Rescue. — At Markova. — Macrae's Report: Commencing
Work. — Cutting Poles. — Sickness. — Reduced Supplies. — Suspension of
Work. — Mia Deackhoff. — Sleds from Crepast — Men discouraged. — Field-
Party. — Off for the Orlofka. — Failure of Traps. — More Supplies. — Expe
dition to Koraks. — Olgan River. — Hard Journey. — Unsuccessful. — Return.
— Work discontinued. — Precarious Livelihood. — For Markova. — Buying
Horses. — Destitution. — Feeding the Men on Horse-meat. — Opportune
Arrival. — Preparations for Journey to Penjina. — Enormous Appetites. —
Start. — Meat Sleds. — Return. — Provision. — Baxter's Departure with
Stores for the Myan. — Explanation. — Cause of Distress  470
CHAPTER XXXII.
Zeal of the Men. — D. C.Norton's Report: his Party. — Cold Weather. —
Frostbites. — Native Endurance. — Difficulty from Freezing. — Myan Sta
tion. — Outdoor Work.— Effect of Cold on Axes. — Distributing Poles. —
Camps 1, 2, and 3. — Sleepless Nights. — Out of Food. — Retreat to the Sta
tion. — In the Field again. — Orlofka River. — No Sleds. — Building Camp.

xx CONTENTS.
— Erecting Signals. — Snow-blindness. — Trapping Grouse. — Supplies give
out. — Colburn andNesbit. — Off for the Station. — -Lost in a Storm. — Scant
Supplies. — Arduous Journey. — Breaking Roads. —Cheerless Night.—
Home again. — Used-up Set. — Sufferings of Myan Party. — Anxiety. —
Baxter's Return. — Sleds for the Myan. — Loveman : his Account and Ad
venture. — Lost on the Tundra. — Bears. — Despair. — Through the Ice. —
Returning Sleds.— Search. — Yelping Dogs. — Narrow Escape. —Arrival of
Myan Party. — Forgetful of the Past. — Re-enlisting. — Stock on Hand. —
Robinson's Remains. — Starving Dogs. — Break-up of the Rivers. — Off for
the Myan. — Boating and Towing. — Happy Natives. — Success in spearing
Deer.- — Feasting. — The River. — Wild Water-fowl. — A bad Place. — Set
Adrift. — Illia again. — Deserved Success.— A Deer. — Taking his Stand. —
Glorious Sight. — Sympathy. — Constantine. — The Onslaught. — The Vic
tims. — Provoking Circumstances. — Miss Fire.— Small Triumph. — Dis
gust. — Deer-snares. — Watching for Deer. — Precautions. —Arrival. — De
parture. — Ivan Ermechkoff  Page 485
CHAPTER XXXIII.
Down the Myan in a Carbass. — Rain. — Hunting Eggs. — Avaram. — Provid
ing for Rafting-parties. — Ruined Watch-tower. — Lone Mound Yourt. —
Approach to Telegraph Bluff. — Magpie. — The Remains. — Interment. —
Supplies give out. — Gull's Eggs. — Gale. — Ticklish Passage. — Camp Mac
rae. — Wanton Destruction.- — Demolished Vetka. — House unroofed. — Au
dacity of a Bear. — Golden Gate Bay. — Ice. — The Wreck. — Blue Boat. —
Our Welcome. — Launch of the Wade. — Renovated. — Health of Party. —
Death of Geddes. — Dixon. — The Burial. — Extracts from Robinson's Jour
nal. — Fearful Poorga. — Kelly lost. — Another Adventure. — A Night on the
Tundra. — Frozen insensible. — Party to the Rescue. — Amputation. — Rude
Implements. — Break-up of the Ice. — Damage to Wreck and Change of
Position. — Effects of extreme Cold on Metals. — Electricity in the Air. —
Auroras. — Mr. Farnam and the Commissariat. — Outdoor Exercises and
Sports. — Loading the Steamer. — First Trip up the Anadyr. — Curiosity of
the Tchuctchus. — Huk-ho! — Reinterment of Robinson's Remains. — River
Navigation. — Celebration ofthe Fourth of July. — Macrae.- — First Raft. —
Harsh Treatment. — Arrival ofthe Clara Bell. — Work abandoned. — Dis
appointment. — The Enterprise. — Major Wright. — Last Trip of the Wade.
— Outrageous Economy. — No Provision. — Captain Redfield. — Mason. —
Leave-taking. — Farnam's ' ' Gash. " — Farewell. — The Graves. — Departure.
— Plover Bay. — Old Friends. — "There she blows!" — Killing and cutting
up the Whale. — Ravenous Natives. — Tongue and Bone. — Redfield's De
light. — Homeward bound  500
Meteorological Tables  521

ILLUSTRATIONS.
Map showing Routes  -.  At End.
Fight between Reindeer and Dogs  Frontispiece.
Volcanoes of Koriatski, Avatcha, and Koseldskai  Page 30
The Three Brothers  34
Petropaulovski  37
Church at Petropaulovski. . . .'  40
Behring's Monument, Petropaulovski  42
Avateha  55
Kamtchatka Sables  62
Gilak Lotka and Village  90
Mikhaelofski  100
On. the Beach near Nikolayefsk  104
Gilak Encampment  123
Portrait of Mikhaeloff  141
Portrait of Constantine  141
Tungusian Man  156
Tungusian Woman  157
Fish-trap  172
Interior of Yakout Yourt  174
A Dog-team  187
Oudskoi  194
Snow-shoe  199
Fox-trap  219
Reindeer-sled  247
Bear-trap  276
Yakout Yourt  299
Yakout Man  300
Yakout Woman  300
Dogs Fishing  .*  303
The Ermine  313
Ennine Trap  316
Ghijigha  335
Light-house at Ghijigha  337
The Tundra  348
Korak Beau  '.  358
' Korak Belle  358
Group of Reindeer  372
View in Markova  385
Portrait of Ivan Ermechkoff  391
Portrait of Feador Chyan  391
Down the Anadyr  420
Capturiug Walrus  437
The Wade beached by the Ice  445
Head-quarters at Markova  457
Dismantling the Wreck  467
Oochostika  509

REINDEER, DOGS, AND

SNOW-SHOES.

REINDEER, DOGS, AKD SNOW-SHOES.

CHAPTER I.
Object of the Expedition. — Route of Line. — Western Union Telegraphic
Company. — Colonel Bulkley, Engineer -in -chief. — Arrival in San Fran
cisco, and Organization of Exploring Parties. — Major Abasa. — Our De
parture. — The Brig Olga. — Voyage across the Pacific. — Fogs. — Land-ho!
— Volcanoes of Kamtchatka. — Preparations for going Ashore.- — Kamt-
chatkan Coast. — Agreeable Surprise. — Avatcha Bay. — Mr. Flenger. —
News from the World. — Petropaulovski. — Beautiful Harbor. — Fight with
the Allies. — Population. — Early History. — At Anchor. — Esquimaux
Dogs. — Impressions. — Native Politeness. — Kamtchadale Cossacks. — Na
tive Costume. — Greek Church. — Bachelor Establishment. — Peachka. —
Samovar. — Tea. — Captain Soutkovoi and the Ispravnik. — Behring's Mon
ument. — Russian Hospitality. — Ladies Smoking. — Penates. — Prasniks. —
Winter and Summer Amusements. — La Perouse's Monument. — Wild Flow
ers and Berries. — Battle-ground. — Volcanic Eruption.- — Earthquakes. — •
Soldiers' Graves. — Magazine and Cossack Sentry. — Fishing Party. —
Priests. — Dissipation. — Kamtchadal Boats. — Timidity. — American and
English Residents. — Pleasures. — Life in Petropaulovski.
Uncertainty loomed up before us as blank as the fog that
enveloped our little brig on the second day after our exit
through the Golden Gate. That our first destination was
Petropaulovski, a small Russian settlement near the lower
end of the peninsula of Kamtchatka, was all we knew. Upon
what information he could acquire at this town of the vast
territory lying beyond, Major Abasa, our chief, proposed to
base his plans of future operations. Beyond, all was wrapped
in a veil of uncertainty, through which we saw, or imagined
we saw, phantoms of cold, starvation, and all the other dan
gers that inhabit an unexplored Arctic territory. The expe
riences of Kane, Hall, Franklin, and numerous others in a
similar climate gave us a foreknowledge of what we might
expect. But what man has endured, we thought, man could
endure again ; and as we were all young, stout, healthy, and

20 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES..
ambitious, and the enterprise one we thought worthy to
chance one's life upon, we entered upon it resolved not to be
alarmed at imaginary evils, but to push forward, accept what
ever fate was in store for us, test the powers of these Polar
denizens in actual encounters, and win, if possible ; if not,
succumb with the best possible grace. These were the mo
tives that actuated most of us, and these were the feelings
with which we embarked upon the enterprise.
" But what enterprise is he talking about ?" I can imagine
the reader saying. Simply this : we were going to explore a
route for telegraphic communication between the Old World
and the New — to connect Victoria, at the mouth of Frazer
River, in British Columbia, with the Russian town of Niko
layefsk, at the mouth of the Amoor River, in Asia, via Behr-
ing Straits. Several thousand miles of unknown territory on
both sides of Behring Sea had to be explored to test the prac
ticability of the project ; the extreme temperature of those
northern climes had to be encountered, and savage tribes
conciliated. For the accomplishment of these objects, ours
was one of the first parties organized and embarked.
Owing to the indefatigable perseverance of Mr. P. McD.
Collins, formerly commercial agent for the United States on
the Amoor, the necessary charters had been obtained both
from the Russian and English governments permitting the
line to run through their territories. Our own government
also did much for the furtherance of the undertaking. Mr.
Collins afterward transferred his rights to the Western Union
Telegraph Company of the United States, and they immedi
ately took steps to carry out the enterprise.
Colonel Charles S. Bulkley, a well-known and energetic en
gineer, was appointed to the command of the expedition, and
came immediately to San Francisco in the winter of '64 and
'65 to organize expeditions and take the necessary steps for
the prosecution of the work. Vessels wer* bought, together
with thorough outfits in every thing essential.
Hundreds of men applied for permission to accompany the
expedition, from whom the colonel selected the requisite
number, always giving the preference to young men ; " for "
he said, " they can endure more ; have greater perseverance •
and besides, whatever honors or benefits shall accrue from a

DEPARTURE FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 27
completion of the work, I want the young men ofthe country
to have."
Major Robert Kennicott, Director ofthe Chicago Academy
of Natural Sciences, on account of his former experience in
traveling in Northwestern America, was appointed to the
command of an expedition to be landed on the American
coast of Behring Sea, to penetrate eastward through Russian
America, and connect with another party under Major Frank
Pope, which was to be landed at Frazer River, thence to pro
ceed northward through British Columbia.
Lieutenant C. L. Macrae, with a small party, was to be left
at the mouth of the Anadyr River, on the Siberian side of
Behring Sea, to ascend that river to a point where there was
once a small Russian outpost called Anadyrsk, and then, if
possible, to work his way southward to a native settlement
called Kamanie, at the northeastern extremity of the Ok
hotsk Sea. Here it was expected that some of our party
would meet him.
The remainder of the Siberian explorations, upward of two
thousand miles, was intrusted to Major Abasa's immediate
party, consisting of the major himself — a Russian gentleman
of high standing and great intelligence, who was given the
supreme command of all the Asiatic division of the line, Cap
tains Jas. A. Mahood, George Kennan, and myself — four per
sons. After repeated delays, on the 3d of July, 1865, the brig
Olga, which had been chartered to convey our party to Kamt
chatka, hoisted her anchor, and, being taken in tow by the
Company's steamer George S. Wright, we glided rapidly out
through the bay, giving one long, and, perhaps, last farewell
glance at the hills and spires of San Francisco.
Numerous friends attended us outside the Heads, when the
"good-by" was once more given, and, amid cheers and waving
handkerchiefs, the hawser was dropped, flags dipped, and the
Wright, turning on her course, soon vanished among the blue
headlands of the Golden Gate, leaving us to pick our own
way across the mighty deep.
No party ever started out better equipped, or with moFe
comfortable accommodations than we. The Olga, though
small, was a stanch vessel, and had been arranged for the

38 REINDEER, DO OS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
accommodation of passengers, the afterpart being partitioned
off into a comfortable little cabin, around which were ranged
eight berths. There being only four of us, we had abundant
room, not only for ourselves, but for our baggage and extra
stores ; of the last we had an abundant supply, for which we
were partly indebted to well-wishing - friends at home, who
had a thorough appreciation of their value in aiding to while
away the tedium of a long sea voyage. It is hardly neces
sary to say that, with all these comforts, besides books and
various games, the time passed very pleasantly and rapidly.
I will not enter into the details of our long voyage, but
leave that to the imagination of the reader ; suffice it to say
that for forty-seven long days we continued on our westerly
course, now laying to under close-reefed topsails ; now gently
heaving back and forth, becalmed on the bosom of the ocean ;
now dashing forward with a fine breeze off the quarter, and
now contending with baffling head winds. Rains, fogs, and
an occasional, though rare, fine day also helped to give vari
ety. But during all this time we sighted neither land nor a
sail. Upon going on deck the morning of August 19th, we found
ourselves enveloped in a thick fog, that hung over the ocean
like a pall; so dense, in fact, that the forward watch was
hardly discernible from the poop-deck. A good strong breeze
was driving our tardy craft onward at the furious rate of
seven knots an hour, and all bade fair for a speedy return to
the longed-for shore. For several days past it had been im
possible to get a " sight," and we were wholly ignorant of
our exact whereabouts, but, by dead reckoning, we inferred
our position to be about eighty miles from Petropaulovski.
Had this been the case, we reasonably hoped, before the sun
should set, to catch a glimpse once more of terra firma. This
expectation aroused unusual interest in the whole party, and
our after-breakfast pipes were hardly lighted before all hands
were assembled on deck, eagerly watching for the curtain to
rise and disclose to view the first scene of the new drama in
which we were to take so active a part.
Hours elapsed, and yet there were no indications ofthe fog
lifting. By this time we had become somewhat reconciled
to disappointment, and were about to retire to our usual rou-

:J_

THE KAMTCHATKAN COAST. 31
tine of daily amusement, when the welcome cry of " Land
ho !" from the forward part of the ship caused a spasmodic
springing to feet. Ahead all was as dark as ever, and the
utmost straining of our eyes could not detect the cause of
this outcry, until at length, chancing to glance far above the
point where we naturally expected land indications, several
long light streaks, diverging as they approached the horizon,
proclaimed the presence of some lofty peak, clad in perpetual
snow. Soon another appeared farther to the north, and ap
parently higher than the first. We were allowed scarcely
time to get bearings of the two before they were again hid
den from view ; but this was sufficient, as we were enabled
to fix upon our location. Their relative positions, when com
pared with the chart, proclaimed the first to be Mount Villen-
chinski, upward of 7000 feet high, and the other Mount Avat
cha, 11,554 feet in height, according to our guide-books.
This was the signal to commence preparations for going
ashore. Trunks were overhauled to find clean white linen, to
supplant the colored woolen shirts we had been wearing dur- -
ing the voyage, and boot-blacking — that most odious of petty
duties — was sprung to with the greatest alacrity.
Even the sailors, who were not an over-industrious set of
men, caught the infection, and were ere long applying the
scrubbing-brush with surprising vigor. Nothing was slighted
in their zeal, not even the pigs, whose hideous squeals, reach
ing to our cabin, caused us to seek the deck to ascertain the
cause ofthe uproar. This was soon explained; the men had
the two little fellows in a large tub of water, scrubbing and
sousing them without mercy, though, rather than hurt one
of them, they would have undergone almost any punishrpent.
" Och ! ye spalpeen, stop yer squalin ; the gentlemen '11 think
yer bein murthered." " Will yees be asy, I tell yees? its all
for yer own good." These, with various other characteristic
speeches, caught at quiet intervals during the process, helped
to make the scene all the more ludicrous, though it was a
great relief to the ear when the operation was completed.
In the afternoon we were favored for a few minutes with a
clear horizon, during which time I succeeded in getting an
outline ofthe elevated portions ofthe coast comprised within
a stretch of about sixty miles ; but, with the approach of

32 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
darkness, the fog settled again, and we were obliged, though
reluctantly, to turn on our course and head seaward, to lay
off and on during the night. The following morning it was
still dark, but at 5 A.M. the ship's prow was again turned to
ward shore, with the hope of finding clear sailing as the day
advanced. In this, however, we were disappointed, for the
farther we advanced the more dense the fog became; but
about II o'clock we perceived that this effect was occasioned
by the loom of the land, and shortly afterward the dim, black
face of a cliff broke through the gloom about two miles dis
tant. This was followed by another and another, being sal
ient angles of the irregular coast-line, between which the
retiring was lost in the mist.
Overhead the fog was even more dense than near the
water, obscuring all the prominent landmarks by which to
judge of our location ; consequently, we were obliged to take
our course blindly. Pretty soon a small, low island disclosed
itself, which, by reference to the chart, we found to be " Old
Man's Island." We had struck the coast not more than four
miles below the entrance to Avatcha Bay. Upon the north
ern shore of this bay Petropaulovski lies. Up to this time
the appearance of the coast had fulfilled our expectations in
relation to bleak, desolate Kamtchatka ; but even those ster
ile cliffs were a welcome sight, and we longed to put foot
upon shore. Imagine our astonishment and delight after
ward, when suddenly the fog lifted, and, floating rapidly
away, disclosed a scene of majestic wildness, and, in many re
spects, surpassingly beautiful. The long array of beetling
cliffs was lighted up by a shower of most brilliant sunlight,
contrasting in bold relief the ragged yellow and gray projec
tions with the darker hues of the shaded portions. These
cliffs range from one hundred to four hundred feet in height,
and are crowned with beautiful green slopes, dotted with
clusters of foliage, in the midst of which small rivulets trickle
down to the brink ofthe precipice, and then bound off in sil
very threads, ending in tassels of spray long before they reach
the foaming surf below.
At the water's edge a succession of deep cavities have been
worn by wave action, leaving ponderous masses of rock pro
jecting overhead, ready to fall crashing into the sea at al-

AVATCHA DAT. 33
most any moment, while others are supported by massive
arches or frail pillars, upon whose dimensions the dashing
waves are gradually but surely encroaching. Many of these
fragments have already fallen, and, being of every conceiv
able shape, their quaint, fantastic forms, jutting from the
water, give the coast a very picturesque appearance. Some
resemble castles, with massive wings and bastions attached,
and jutting towers projecting over the water, while others
are so tall, slight, and fragile in appearance as to create sur
prise at their not having long since been blown over. One,
in particular, was so perfect a representation that, for some
moments, all on board were deceived, thinking it was a ship
under full sail approaching the bay.
These rocky pinnacles are the favorite resorts of great
quantities of sea-birds of many varieties, being at times al
most obscured by flocks of them circling about and alight
ing on their summits, while their bases were literally black
with seals basking in the warm sunlight, now and then lazily
tumbling over each other, or making awkward plunges from
ragged projections into the sparkling surf below.
The surface of the water was unbroken except by the flap
ping wings of myriads of sea-parrots and ducks, that rose as
we approached, and sailed off screaming toward more quiet
nooks and coves under the overhanging cliffs, the glassy
waves mirroring the enchanting scene with surprising dis
tinctness. This unexpected display, enlivened by the flapping of
ducks, the screaming of startled sea-birds, the hoarse, unme-
lodious bellowings of seal, and the deep thunderings of the
surf resounding from the black caverns under the cliffs,
aroused in us all feelings of most exquisite delight, which,
coupled with the knowledge that our voyage was about end
ed, fully repaid us for all the discomforts of the past forty-
seven days.
The entrance to Avatcha Bay, at the narrowest point, is
about one and a half miles wide. Approaching the bay, the
high cliffs on both sides gradually diminish in altitude, and
are succeeded by fresh green slopes and small sheltered bays.
Upon the brink of a high promontory on the northern side
of the entrance stands a small wooden light-house and sig-
C

34

REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

nal-staff, lashed to the ground with stays to prevent being
blown over, just beneath which three isolated chimneys of
rock jut from the water, known as " The Three Brothers."

the theee beothees.

Two or three miles farther, on the opposite shore, is " Ba
bushka," or " Grandmother" rock, a peculiarly-shaped frag
ment. Just beyond this the Bay of Avatcha opens out into
a fine large sheet about twenty miles in extent, bordered on
the northern side by a range of hills, while, on the south and
west the country extends apparently level far inland.
A careful scrutiny of the shore with our glasses failed to
reveal any traces ofthe town, and we were at a loss to know
in what direction to proceed, when a whale-boat was discov
ered approaching our vessel from a line of bluffs on the right.
The dark skins, black hair, and coarse cloth garments of
the rowers proclaimed them to be some ofthe semi-civilized
natives of the country ; but the helmsman, from his manner
and appearance, together with the easy grace with which he
reclined back on a thick pallet of bear-skins, and leisurely
puffed at a fragrant Manilla, we knew to be either a foreigner
or some Russian gentleman.

<
APPROACH TO PETROPAULOVSKI. 35
We were at a loss to know how to address him, when the
words " What ship is that ?" in good round English, left us no
longer in doubt. The gentleman proved to be Mr. Flenger,
one of the foreign fur merchants of the place, who, seeing the
brig, had come out to meet her. Under his guidance, we
headed for a steep, hilly promontory visible to the north, be
hind which the settlement of Petropaulovski lies.
His first inquiries were for news from the world, as it had
been three years since a mail had arrived from St. Peters
burg via Siberia, and the only information they had received
during that time was from one or two vessels that call an
nually at the harbor. It was formerly customary to send a
mail through by land from Europe once every winter, but
this custom, it seems, had been stopped, and the arrival of a
vessel — their only resource for obtaining news now — was
hailed with great interest by all, and recorded among the
remarkable occurrences in the annals of Petropaulovski.
As we approached shore we eagerly watched for the first
indications of the town, but, though within rifle-shot of the
rocks, no traces could be seen of the presence of any human
habitation other than a few cows and dogs on the adjoining
hill - sides. Presently the ship's course was changed, and,
rounding the end of the promontory, we found ourselves
suddenly confronted by a beautiful, snug little harbor, shel
tered on three sides by the high, narrow promontory encir
cling it like an arm, and a range of lofty hills rising in an
easy slope from the white beach to an elevation of about one
thousand feet on the main shore. The already narrow en
trance was reduced to a mere gateway by a long, low sand-
spit jutting from the main shore, completely sheltering the
little bay, which is at all times as smooth and placid as a
mountain lake.
Upon the gradual slope bordering the bay on the north
and west are grouped the low log-houses of Petropaulovski,
sprinkled about without regard to regularity, in the midst of
which stands most prominent a small, octagonal, red-roofed
church, surmounted with a green turret. Most of the houses
are covered with bark or thatched with straw, but a few —
those occupied by the government officials and foreign mer
chants — are roofed with shingles painted red, which show in

36 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
glaring contrast against the fresh green hill-sides in the back
ground. Back of the town, just over a low rise, lies a small
valley, between the promontory and shore ridge, through
which other and more distant ranges reveal themselves,
capped, on a clear day, with the grand, lofty cone of Avat
cha ; but this beautiful feature of the landscape was obscured
on the day of our arrival.
As we entered the harbor, upon either hand were the re
mains of several earth-works that had aided in the successful
defense of the town against the allied fleet during the Cri
mean War ; for, though on the very outskirts of civilization,
and being a place the capture of which could not add one
grain toward the ultimate success of the campaign, even this
little Kamtchadal settlement had to be dragged into the con
test^ ; but she acquitted herself nobly, and forced the power
ful fleet of her adversaries to retire after a lively bombard
ment and very spirited land engagement on the end of the
promontory adjoining the main land. For their victory the
Russians were mainly indebted to the natural advantages of
their position, which is approachable only through the nar
row entrance of the bay, and this was commanded not only
by shore batteries, but by the guns of two men-of-war lying
in the small harbor.
Petropaulovski at present contains not more than three hun
dred inhabitants, natives and all, but then it was much larger,
being the principal Russian settlement on the Pacific. At the
time of the engagement her population was about one thou
sand souls ; but the following year, the port of Nikolayefsk
being then founded, by orders from St. Petersburg the place
was abandoned, and all the troops and stores, together with
a large portion ofthe population, were removed to that place.
This was effected only in time to escape another attack, as
the allied squadron returned to try and retrieve their lost
laurels. All the batteries were razed by them, and most of
the buildings burned down, since which time the place has
improved very little.
The history of Petropaulovski dates back to the year 1740
when magazines were established here by one Felagin, whom
Behring sent to explore Avatcha Bay, preparatory to his ex
ploitations on the northwest coast of America, Its name is

PETROPAULOVSKI. 39
derived from the two vessels St. Peter and St. Paul, built at
the town of Okhotsk, on the Okhotsk Sea, in the year 1159,
and used by Behring in his voyages. From that time it
gradually increased in size and importance up to the break
ing out of hostilities already mentioned.
When we had obtained sufficient headway, the sails were
clewed up, and, at a signal from the captain, down went the
anchor, bringing up with a dull chug in the soft mud at the
bottom of the bay. The rattling of the chain as it ran out
awakened a thousand echoes among the surrounding hills,
and called forth a prolonged howling and barking from hun
dreds of Esquimaux dogs, which sounded really melodious,
softened by the echoes as they bounded and rebounded across
the beautiful little bay.
None but those who have for the first time found them-
selve transported to foreign lands, where every glance reveals
strange and novel sights, and the ear is awakened by unfa
miliar sounds and tongues, can realize the joy we experienced
at this time. Every tree, shrub, and rock seemed clothed in
a halo of peculiar interest, while the most commonplace ob
jects and incidents were regarded and dwelt upon with es
pecial relish.
No time was lost in lowering the boats, that we might pay
our first visit to the settlement. Mr. Flenger kindly escorted
us, and afterward insisted upon our accompanying him to his
bachelor residence.
A row of wet, slippery steps answered the purpose of a
landing, near which lay a miniature brig, mounting two guns,
which, with seventeen Cossacks, compose the defense of the
place. At the landing we were met by a troop of wild-look
ing little boys, each of whom, as we approached, raised his
cap in the most polite manner to salute us. This was a feat
ure of Kamtchadal life wholly unexpected, and it was a pleas
ure to return their salutations; such a custom might with
propriety be introduced into countries pretending to much
greater civilization. A little farther we encountered groups
of Kamtchadals and half-breeds with coarse black hair and
small eyes, curiously watching our movements, and anxious
to ascertain the object of this remarkable, unlooked-for ar
rival. Among them, I was told, were a number of Cossacks,

40

REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

but they so resembled the others in looks and dress that it
was wholly impossible to distinguish them.
These natives have generally adopted cloth garments for
summer wear, preferring them to their original skin clothing,
but still cling to the use of seal-skin boots, which are not only
cheaper for them, but are better suited to the life they lead
— that of fishing along the shoal beach. In winter they, as
well as all other residents of the country, make use of heavy
fur outer garments.

MM I
; Mm fes* i

,1 H
V

' mmYi

THE SAMOVAR AND PEACHKA. 41
The quaint little church, upon closer inspection, proved to
be in a very dilapidated condition, as in fact did most of the
dwellings. The entrance is in the end of a low, long wing,
near which, suspended under a small shed wholly detached
from the main building, is a chime of seven or eight bells, at
which several men were pulling vigorously as we approached.
At length, by winding and twisting about among various
one-storied log buildings, we reached the street — a thorough
fare that might justly be entitled to that appellation, upon
one side of which stands Mr. Flenger's house, a good-sized,
well-built structure of not very inviting appearance external
ly, but the internal arrangement and appearance far surpassed
our expectations. His, being a counterpart of the other bet
ter houses in the place, will bear a brief description. The
rooms were all high and comfortable, well papered and car
peted, and furnished with a view to ease more than elegance.
Books and papers were strewn about in the greatest profu
sion (though the latter were of rather old date), which, with
sofas and easy-chairs, cigars, decanters, and many other minor
essentials, proclaimed the place to be a model bachelor estab
lishment. The " samovar," or Russian tea-urn, stood upon a side-table,
ready at a few moments' notice to yield delicious draughts
of Siberian nectar. The tea we drank in this country was,
without doubt, unsurpassable. One sip was sufficient to re
move all previously acquired prejudice against the beverage,
it being so different from the article usually obtained in
America. It is the universal drink among all classes, and is
always kept in readiness for the visitor, being generally pre
sented in large tumblers.
One feature of the houses in Petropaulovski is the " peach
ka," or large brick oven used for heating the different apart
ments ; it is much like an ordinary bake-oven, but, before es
caping up the chimney, the heat and smoke are conducted
through innumerable flues and pipes winding about through
the mass of masonry in such a manner as to get the whole
thoroughly heated. When the fire dies out the chimney is
closed, and the greater part of the heat is retained below.
The " peachka" is usually built in the centre of the house, so
as to present a surface to every apartment. One good fire

42 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
in the morning will generally supply heat sufficient to last
all day.
Before returning to the vessel, we paid visits to Captain
Soutkovoi, the captain of the port, and to the Ispravnik, or
governor ofthe district of Kamtchatka. Captain Soutko-voi's
residence is the largest and best in the place, being situated
in a large yard, some distance back from the main street, and
approached by an avenue of white poplars. The grounds are
laid out in pleasant walks, and contain large numbers of cul
tivated flowers, among which we recognized several of our
American favorites. A small brook is conducted through
the place, and made to fall in artificial cascades. By the side
of this stands an iron monument, erected to the memory of

BElIRING'S MONUMENT.

Captain Behring. Our reception by the captain and his pleas
ant wife was in full keeping with Russian hospitality, already
proverbial ; we were scarcely seated before the samovar was
introduced, together with beverages of a stronger nature, and
cigars ; the latter we had a little delicacy in accepting until
the madam set us an example by lighting a " papyrosa," or
Russian cigarette, and beginning to smoke with the greatest

LIFE IN PETR OPA UL 0 VSKI. 43
composure. Afterward we found smoking to be an almost
universal custom among Siberian ladies, and, though a little
prejudiced against the practice at first, we soon became ac
customed to the sight.
The inside arrangement of the house was much the same
as the one already described, though the tasteful disposition
of the different pieces of furniture, together with various lit
tle articles of female workmanship, proclaimed the presence
of one of the fair sex. A corner of each room was devoted
to the- "penates," being decked out with images of various
saints, to which the family address their morning and even
ing devotions. Before each of these images were suspended
small lamps or candles, which are always lighted on " pras-
niks," or church holidays — about half the days of the year.
One of the apartments contained a piano, and, being the
largest room in town, the madam informed us was the place
of holding their winter-evening balls and card-parties. From
all I could learn, these people, though very isolated, and whol
ly dependent upon their own resources for amusement, lead
quite a gay life. All the gentlemen keep their fancy teams
of dogs, with which they make frequent winter excursions to
the adjoining settlements, taking the ladies along with them,
and at night, upon their return, they wind up with " vechour-
kas" at the captain's hall. During the short summer they
find abundant amusement boating and fishing on. the bay,
gathering berries on the neighboring hill-sides, or taking
horseback rides to the interior, besides occasional picnics at
the many beautiful suburban resorts.
This, our first visit ashore, was one of pleasurable excite
ment ; but, after returning once more to our snug little cabin
on the Olga, to which we had become considerably attached
during the long voyage, and where familiar objects once
more greeted us, we experienced very great relief, even after
so short an absence.
Upon the promontory on our left, near the site of one of
the demolished Russian batteries, stands a monument erected
to the memory of La Perouse, which we decided to visit the
following day. Though the grass was deep and wet from a
heavy dew, we were at an early hour ascending the steep
acclivity, and ere long reached the summit. This monu-

44 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
ment, upon a closer inspection, did not realize our expecta
tions, and was hardly worthy to commemorate the fame of
the great navigator. A more beautiful site could not have
been chosen, however. The structure is of sheet-iron, perfo
rated with bullet-holes supposed to be relics ofthe fight, and
consists of a low column erected upon a pyramidal succession
of steps, the whole being surmounted with a 32-pound shell,
in the cavity of which stands a small wooden cross.
We were surprised at finding upon the hill-side quantities
of wild flowers, most prominent among which were wild
roses, tiger lilies, and " Solomon's Seal," all of which seemed
to thrive equally as well here as in our own country. Whor
tleberries and blackberries were also very abundant, and,
upon inquiry, we learned that raspberries, gooseberries, and
cranberries likewise grew in the greatest profusion in some
localities. Thick groves of small white birch and a few firs
clothe the eminence, and afford shelter to quantities of birds.
Leaving the monument, we continued our jaunt westward
along the ridge to the scene of the land engagement. From
this point the view is sublime. On our left the ridge breaks
off suddenly in a high ragged cliff, from the foot of which
Avatcha Bay extends in a beautiful sheet for miles to the
east, south, and west, bounded by the long, graceful curve of
the distant shore. Beyond, the country is interspersed with
groves of forest and winding streams, the latter sparkling in
the sun, while the vision is .limited by a line of blue hills.
Directly in front of us, at the end of the ridge, lay a small
oval-shaped lake, separated from the bay by a long, narrow
sandspit, while at our right, nestled down in the valley and
skirting the inner bay, was the town, and the adjoining slope
dotted with garden-patches.
The volcanoes, whose appearance we eagerly watched for,
still refused to cast off their cloud mantles and reveal them
selves. On a clear day, three lofty peaks are distinctly visi
ble from this point. Avatcha, the highest of the three and
the nearest, almost continually emits smoke. In the year
1861, the people of Petropaulovski were treated to a grand
exhibition of an eruption from this peak. It continued for
days without cessation, scattering ashes for miles over the
surrounding country. These peaks are all of volcanic origin,

EARTHQUAKES AND ECCLESIASTICS. 45
as their forms indicate, though at the present day, with one
or two exceptions, they are dormant.
In this section earthquakes are not unfrequent, though they
are rarely severe. In February, 1861, however, the whole of
Southern Kamtchatka was badly skaken. Large fissures were
opened throughout the country, and the quiet little town of
Petropaulovski was threatened with demolishment. It re
sulted, however, in no more serious damage than shaking
down most of the peachkas and chimneys, and the racking
of door and window frames.
Descending from the hill, we passed two mounds of earth,
crowned with rude wooden crosses bearing Russian inscrip
tions, beneath which lie the remains of the combatants slain
during the engagement ; and near by was another, having a
low entrance, from which emerged, as we passed, a hermit
like creature, clad in filthy rags, and looking the very picture
of destitution. The appearance of this man aroused our whole
sympathy, while the appearance of his habitation completely
puzzled us. We were much relieved, though, upon returning
to town, to learn that the earth-mound was. nothing more
than a powder-magazine, and the individual a Cossack sen
try. A more unsoldierly- looking soldier could hardly be
imagined. To return to town, we followed the beach at the foot of
the cliffs outside of the promontory, upon which, rounding a
point of rocks, we suddenly came upon a fishing-party seated
around a large fire, singing and making merry over some sus
picious-looking bottles. This, ih itself, would have hardly
attracted attention had we not discovered in their midst one
of the long-haired, long-robed priests of the settlement, in
any state but that of the sobriety becoming his calling. He
had accompanied them to bless the water and insure them a
successful haul, but, not being in a very spiritual mood, had
probably adopted this method of becoming so. Judging from
the countenances of all those we saw, the members of the
priesthood are by no means a temperate set, and are like
wise, according to rumor, greatly addicted to gaming. This,
our first contact with them, produced feelings of perfect dis
gust. How their followers, humble and ignorant as they are,
can repose any confidence in them whatever, is a mystery to

46 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
me. They make no show of concealing their dissipation, but,
at almost any time of the day, may be seen reeling toward
the little church to read prayers.
We hoped that the extreme isolation of the place made it
no criterion by which to judge of Russian church officials in
general, but I am sorry to say that in no portion of Siberia
visited by our parties afterward did they find a better state
of affairs. I am told, however, that all sons of Church offi
cials are considered sons of the Church, and are required,
whether or no, to devote their lives to its interests. If this
be so, hypocrisy and carelessness are naturally to be expect
ed. But, in spite of all this, they wield great influence over
the ignorant and superstitious natives. I never saw a peo
ple more strict in the observance of all religious forms, the
compliance with which, they think, is all that is essential to
make them thorough Christians.
Near by the fishing-party, drawn up on the beach, were
their canoes, like the " dug-outs" or hollowed logs used by
our American Indians for navigating lakes and rivers. These
are the only water-crafts used by the Kamtchadals, who are
not very expert boatmen ; and to insure safety when the
water is rough, they lash two or more of them together, side
by side, by binding light poles across the tops. Even thus
secured, they rarely venture far from shore, but, rather than
cross a small body of water, they will paddle three times the
distance around the beach. This timidity is probably owing
to their ignorance of the art of swimming, the water being
too cold for them to learn. For bathing purposes they em
ploy the Russian steam bath.
We were agreeably surprised at finding in Petropaulovski
a number of our own countrymen engaged in the fur trade,
together with two or three others, who spoke the English
language, and were American in sentiment, if not by nation
ality. Two of these, Messrs. Peirce and Hunter, had resided
in the country for a number of years, and had become so at
tached to it that they were no longer desirous of returning
to America to reside. These gentlemen spared no pains to
make our brief stay agreeable, and I am sure they succeeded
fully. The time spent with them was one continued round
of feasting and enjoyment, and when the day of departure

LIFE AT PETROPAULOVSKI. 47
came it was not without great reluctance we turned our
backs upon the beautiful little place- and its hospitable inhab
itants. Two of these gentlemen, Messrs. Dodd and Frone-
field, afterward joined our expedition, and rendered very effi
cient service. The life led by these gentlemen is one of per
fect ease and comfort. The natural beauty ofthe adjoining
country would be, I should think, in its'elf sufficient to content
one with a few years' sojourn. This, backed with extensive
magazines, containing nearly all the luxuries we enjoy at
home, together with the more hardy produce of the country,
and a pleasant lucrative occupation, would, I should think,
satisfy almost any one. 'Tis true their society is small and
mainly of one kind — masculine, but their resources for other
kinds of enjoyment are great, and they fully understand how
to avail themselves of them.

48 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

CHAPTER H
Major Abasa's Plans. — Country to be traversed. — Ho! for the Amoor. — A
Pony-ride. — Kamtchadal Horses and Equipment. — The Start. — Posholl!
Posholl! — In Misery. — An Experiment. — Kamtchatka of our Expecta
tions. — The Reality. — Fisheries. — Esquimaux Dogs and Crows. — Along
the Bay. — Hay-making. — Siberian Cows. — Bears and Wolves.- — My gen
tle Steed. — The Adjutant. — Avatcha Volcano and Village. — By — Thun
der ! — A Siberian Exile. — Distrust. — Way Station. — Cockroaches. — Rem
edy. — Primitive Steam Bath.— Bathing Process. — Ouga. — Return. — False
Alarms — Equine Gymnastics.— My usual Fate. — Houtre. — Making But
ter. — Home again. — Last Day in Petropaulovski. — Fur Clothing. — Kuk-
lankers. — Torbassa. — Chazee. — Malachis and Archaniks. — Furs of Kamt
chatka. — " Yassak." — Severe Penalty. — Fur Traders. — Mistaken Impres
sion. — " Yankeeism." — High Rates. — Thunder-storm. — Parting Visits. —
Letters. — Farewell .
Since our arrival in Petropaulovski, every effort had been
made to procure information concerning those portions of the
country through which the proposed telegraph line would
run, but thus far we had met with poor success.
The nearest part of the contemplated route was distant a
thousand miles from Petropaulovski, and, to reach this point,
the whole extent of the peninsula of Kamtchatka had to
be traversed — in itself quite an arduous undertaking — and
months might be consumed in its accomplishment. Had it
been earlier in the season, we could have reached Ghijigha
by sea, but at this time of the year it was not deemed safe to
venture far into the northern portion of the Okhotsk Sea,
therefore no alternative was left but to effect the journey by
land, with horses and rafts in summer, and with dogs and
reindeer at the commencement of winter, should we not reach
our destination before winter set in. Nothing was to be
feared from the natives until we should reach the country of
the Koraks, a wild, barbarous, pagan tribe, inhabiting the
northern portion of the peninsula. These people, according
to information received at Petropaulovski, would have no
hesitancy in killing us for plunder, and are a suspicious,
treacherous class, without fear of either God .or man. From
them we naturally anticipated difficulty.

PLANS FOR THE EXPEDITION. 49
Once at Ghijigha, the starting-point, for about twelve hun
dred miles westward along the northern coast of the Okhotsk
Sea to the town of Okhotsk, the country is well known to the
Russians, though difficult to traverse, while the country north
ward from Ghijigha toward the former Russian outpost of
Anadyrsk had also been traversed, but was very little known
except to fur-hunters. It will be remembered that Lieuten
ant Macrae and party were to ascend the Anadyr River to
this outpost to try and effect a junction with some of our
party. Should our small band all proceed to Ghijigha by the
way of Kamtchatka, the whole winter — consequently year —
would be consumed in traversing those sections already men
tioned ; but there still remained an extent of twelve hundred
miles of country almost wholly unknown or unexplored, which
our line would have to pass through, lying along the western
coast of the Okhotsk Sea, from the Amoor River northward
to the town of Okhotsk. This section was so wild, mountain
ous, and inaccessible that no one, up to that time, had ever
penetrated it ; consequently, we could obtain no information
whatever concerning it. How to include this section in our
first winter's explorations was puzzling ; but at length Major
Abasa decided to divide his party, and to send Captain Ma-
hood and myself by sea to the town of Nikolayefsk, on the
Amoor, to explore northward to Okhotsk, while he and Cap
tain Kennan would undertake the remainder.
The Olga fortunately had a cargo for Nikolayefsk, and, as
she intended starting for that post immediately — August
26th — Mahood and I were to accompany her.
The day of our departure was close at hand, and, as we
would probably not have another opportunity of visiting the
suburban resorts of Petropaulovski, our friends suggested a
pony-ride to a small settlement called Avatcha, distant about
seven miles, at the lower end of Avatcha Bay. But there
was some doubt of being able to procure the requisite num
ber of horses. The country contains but few, and these be
ing scattered inland, it was questionable whether or not they
could be found.
At the appointed hour we assembled at the rendezvous
on the street, where four of the horses awaited us. These
Messrs. Flen°-er, Dodd, Mahood, and myself started on with,
D

50 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
leaving Kennan and another of our new friends, Mr. Boll-
man, to follow when the others should come up. I was a lit
tle surprised at the appearance of the horses, and all the sym
pathy in my nature was aroused when I thought of the poor
little things carrying full-grown, stout men up and down
the hills that border the bay; but, being a poor rider, my
pity for the ponies was somewhat mitigated by the consola
tion that, should I fall off, no great harm would result from it.
These horses are about four and a half feet high, stout and
thick-set, having manes reaching below their knees, and long,
heavy tails that trail on the ground when they make the
slightest descent. Owing to a lack of confidence in my rid
ing abilities, I inquired for the most gentle animal, which one
of the natives pointed out. The creature designated was the
smallest of the troop— a mother accompanied by her colt,
which was almost as large as herself.
The saddle was like one of our saw-horses covered with
several thicknesses of bear-skin, and loomed up above the lit
tle creature like the humps on the back of a dromedary. On
one side was a stirrup, the deficiency on the other side being
supplied with a rope loop almost large enough for horse and
all to walk through. Thus equipped for the jaunt, my gentle
steed presented an appearance ,at which we all had to laugh,
notwithstanding an undercurrent of pity that toned down
our mirth very much. Mounting was a very simple process,
it being only necessary to balance on one leg and throw the
other over the saddle, which was none too high to prevent
one's feet from, coming in contact with stumps or boulders.
To obviate this difficulty, my companions had their stirrups
drawn up to within a few inches of the backs of their horses,
and, having concluded to do likewise, I also was soon perched
upon the skins, my knees and shoulders nearly on a level.
When, at length, all were ready, the word was given, and
off they started, all ahead but Dodd" and the colt, who were
waiting for my animal to move ; but she stood perfectly re
gardless of any whistling or clicking I could master. My
position was such that I could not kick her without danger
of falling off, and having neither whip nor stick, I was at a
loss to know what to do. At length Dodd approached, shak
ing so with laughter that the little beast under him shook

FIRST EXPERIENCES IN KAMTCHA TKA. 51
too, and told me to talk Russian to the animal ; that she did
not understand English ; to say " Posholl ! posholl !" After
several ineffectual efforts the magic words were uttered, and
their effect was truly magical.
Off she started on such a trot as to raise me nearly a foot
with every step. Minutes were as ages. The agonies of an
ordinary lifetime concentrated within a period of five min
utes' duration could not have been more excruciating than
the tortures of that first half mile. While in this dilemma,
it occurred to me that I had frequently seen persons ride ap
parently hard-trotting animals with ease by rising in their
stirrups. With one's feet so high, this would be not only a
difficult, but dangerous experiment ; but, thinking any thing
preferable to what I was undergoing, I resolved to try the
experiment. A confused bouncing sensation succeeded, and the next
moment I found myself prostrated on the mare's neck, cling
ing for dear life to her mane with both hands, the rope halter
or bridle streaming in the air, and the little creature making
desperate plunges to keep from tipping forward with the in
creased weight in that direction.
Appearances were now a secondary consideration, and, as
suming as elevated a posture as the circumstances would ad
mit of, I remained in that position until we caught up with
the rest of the party, when a halt was ordered to allow me
to recuperate.
I once heard a friend say that he .considered the toothache
one of the greatest blessings of humanity, on account of the
perfect bliss one enjoys after the tooth is extracted. A trot
ting horse may, I think, be classed under the same head with
propriety, for, of all the luxurious sensations it has been my
good fortune to enjoy during life, that halt deserves to rank
uppermost. Cold, bleak, barren Kamtchatka— the abode of ravenous
wolves, frozen lichens, withering tempests, and starved exiles
— the least interesting and most God-forsaken country under
the sun. The very exemplification of all that is dreary, des
olate, and uninviting, as its tongue-tangling, brain-paralyzing
name would indicate. In fact, the last portion of the globe
upon which any being in his right mind should set foot !

52 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
Such were, pretty nearly, our notions of Kamtchatka before
leaving home, and this was the kind of country our exploring
parties expected to encounter. But how different was the
reality ! It was a calm, beautiful day, just after a refreshing
summer shower, and the sunlight fairly glistened from the
fresh green slopes that extended down to the water's edge.
The whole country was besprinkled with wild flowers of the
brightest hues, and hundreds of birds darted from the tall
grass as we advanced, or flitted among the thick bushes that
in places bordered our path. The sky was of the brightest
blue, partially obscured by huge feathery masses of clouds
that lazily drifted across the heavens, casting alternate light
and shade upon the landscape. The only thing wanting to
complete this most lovely prospect was a glimpse of those
gems of Kamtchadal scenery — her volcanoes, since they were
at this time obscured in a dense cloud. These, however, re
vealed themselves later in the day.
Our route led through the little valley back of the town,
past the soldiers' graves at the end of the ridge, and thence
along the sandspit separating the small lake from Avatcha
Bay. Here our ponies were started up, much to my dis
comfort, and we dashed past some fisheries where were thou
sands of salmon suspended under bark and straw shelters,
drying for the winter sustenance ofthe sled-dogs, these being
their only food, one of which each dog is allowed daily.
Dozens of crows were flying and cawing about the place,
occasionally stealing a mouthful from some exposed fish, much
to the disgust of a troop of hungry but handsome Esqui
maux dogs, chained to the posts of the sheds below, and un
able to get their portion.
Salmon is the principal article of food for both man and
beast. In the absence of other diet, even the horses and cows
subsist upon it, and appear to be well satisfied. As we passed
to the leeward of the fisheries, the cause of our hurry made
itself known in a very strong and decidedly .unpleasant odor
that smote upon our nostrils.
Leaving the "spit," our route lay over a low spur that
made down to the water, thence skirting the shore of the
beautiful bay, first up hill, then down, and over alternate
stretches of smooth shell-beach, and jagged stones and boul-

COWS, REARS, WOLVES, AND COLTS. 53
ders' that border the water's edge. For a large portion of
the way rank grass and weeds reached far above our horses'
backs, and frequently it was impossible to see more than the
head and shoulders of the rider in advance.
This was the season for cutting hay, for which purpose the
old-fashioned sickle is used, and at intervals along the route
we came upon stacks of it, ready piled up to be hauled to
town, as required for use in feeding the horses and cows dur
ing the winter months.
The cows we saw are as small in proportion as are the
horses, but they make up in breadth for what they are defi
cient in height. Their milk is rich, excellent to drink, and
also figures largely in the Kamtchadal bill of fare, from soups
downward. It is made an ingredient in every composite
dish. Each cow yields daily about five bottles, or a little
over four quarts of milk, bottles being employed in its meas
urement instead of quart cups.
We found many traces of bears in the deep grass near the
beach, left by them in their nightly excursions to the shore
in search of " sea-cabbage." This marine plant constitutes
almost their only food in spring, until salmon begin to ascend
the streams to spawn ; then Bruin subsists upon these fish,
which he is very expert in hooking from the water with his
long claws. His flesh is hardly palatable in these parts, on
account of the strong fishy flavor.
Bears are very numerous throughout Kamtchatka, but I
am told are less savage than in other portions of Eastern Si
beria. Sometimes, after an unusually long winter, they go
into the very streets of Petropaulovski and carry off cattle.
Wolves are also very numerous, but are likewise not very
dangerous except when in large packs.
Owing to the gentleness of my beast and the viciousness
of her offspring, on the line of march it was generally my of
fice to bring up the rear of the procession, the path being too
narrow and winding to allow us to ride other than in Indian
file. Once or twice, however, I ventured to go ahead, but the
colt, or " adjutant," as the rest of the party called it, being
very independent and willful, took no pains to keep up, and if
any of those behind approached too nearly, they were warned
off by a pair of small hoofs presented somewhat viciously for

54 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
their inspection. Now and then he would get lost in the
tall grass, and set up a loud whinnying, when the mother
would stand still for him to catch up, in spite of all the Rus
sian I could master.
As we approached our destination — the settlement of
Avatcha — we were greeted with one of the most magnificent
sights I ever beheld. It was just as we turned a point of
rocks at the foot of the bay. From the beach the country
extended apparently level for miles inland, when it began
to rise in a gentle slope, becoming more indistinct, and grad
ually swelling into hills as it receded from the shore. Each
range was succeeded by another, a little higher and a little
more indistinct, until the last was hardly discernible in the
thick haze of distance, and was crowned by heavy masses of
cloud that extended a number of degrees above the horizon.
Far above this mass was the magnificent volcanic peak of-
Avatcha, over eleven thousand feet in height. Though dis
tant thirty miles, its snowy summit, glittering in the sun
light, was so keenly cut against the bright azure of the sky
that it did not appear to be a mile away. This peak is a per
fect cone, and so steep that one constantly expects the huge
masses of snow and ice to come dashing down its sides to the
snow limit, and drop off into boundless space ; below the
snow-line, the bare distant mountain was blended with and
lost in the sky and haze, leaving the snowy summit apparent
ly suspended from the heavens by some invisible cord. Far
to the south rose its noble rival, old Villenchinski, a spire of
burnished silver. To the left, in the immediate foreground,
in a graceful curve, extended the white beach, circling the
head ofthe bay; and just before us, at the mouth of a small
river that winds its way through the deep grass and clusters
of white birches on the plain beyond, lay the small group of
huts — picturesque in the distance — that compose the town of
Avatcha. When the view first broke upon our vision, we all
involuntarily stopped, awe-stricken by the grandeur and sub
limity of the .scene. Not a word was spoken for some min
utes ; but, with eyes and mouths open, each one stood, dread
ing to speak for fear of dispelling the vision. At length one
of our party, who had been credited with the least amount of
soul and susceptibility for the sublime, drew a long breath,

AVATCHA.

55-

AVATOUA.

and in a prolonged, deep tone, uttered " By — thunder !" This
unpoetical and unexpected outburst of enthusiasm produced
a general laugh, and recalled us to our senses, when we gal
loped into the village at a brisk rate, welcomed by the howl
ing and. barking of several hundred dogs.
Having fastened our steeds to a low wicker-work fence,
made by weaving together small pliable sticks, we followed
Mr. Flenger's guidance to the nearest and lai'gest house,

56 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
the proprietor of which was standing in the door to re
ceive us.
"That old man is an exile," whispered Dodd, as we ap
proached the house. Being the first one of that numerous
class we had met, I paid particular attention to his appear
ance, to try and detect some traces of that grief and suffer
ing one would naturally expect to find in a person condemned
to pass his life away from the land of his birth. He scruti
nized those of us who were strangers to him very suspicious
ly, but I could not see that he appeared any less happy and
contented than the remainder of the inhabitants. His name
I did not learn, but he was an old Tartar, at the time of our
visit seventy-six years of age, the last forty-six of which he
had spent in exile. He never spoke of his early life, conse
quently but little was known of his past history other than
that he had deserted from the Russian army and joined a
band of robbers, among whom he had distinguished himself
for desperation and cruelty.
He was a medium-sized man, with a small round head,
though rather low forehead, over which his thin gray hair
was allowed to fall, cut off squarely just above two deep-set,
penetrating gray eyes ; these were rather close to each other,
however, and were shaded by thick, bushy brows. A short,
snub, snuff-coated nose ; enormous mouth, robbed by time
of all its ornaments, with the exception of three small black
snags in front ; a long, scant gray beard hanging from be
neath his chin, and a coarse, week-old mustache, completed
his physiognomy. His costume was in full keeping, consist
ing of a very much soiled, ragged shirjt, leathern trowsers tied
tightly around the waist with a piece of rope, and much worn
seal-skin boots.
Yet, notwithstanding his filthy, ragged appearance, he was
considered one ofthe most prosperous among the lower class.
I tried to get a sketch of our host, but he viewed the prepa
rations with such evident distrust and dissatisfaction that I
abandoned the effort. Probably my uniform and note-book
made him suspicious, and suggested the possibility of my
being a government spy or detective, seeking some clew by
which to confiscate his dogs and cows for the public welfare.
When sledging or riding parties go from Petropaulovski,

AN EXILE.— COCKROACHES— A RUSSIAN BATH. 57
they always make the old man's house a way-station, paying
him a few " copeks" for its use, for which reason he keeps it
much neater than the lower classes do generally. The house
is built of logs, and chinked with moss and clay like all the
others, and is heated by the " peachka," which is also used
for cooking purposes ; but, instead of loose reindeer skins, he
had a piece of canvas neatly tacked down for a carpet ; and
on a small, rough-hewn, but clean table stood that indispen
sable article of furniture to a Russian household, the " samo
var," or tea-urn, already beginning to steam.
As we entered the house, I was very forcibly struck by
hundreds of cockroaches that scampered across the floor and
table, and ran along the crevices in the walls on all sides.
These people brush them from their food and out of the way
as carelessly as we do flies, and appear to make no effort
whatever to kill them.
I at first attributed this leniency to some superstitious no
tion or belief associated' with these insects, by which they
were protected from wholesale slaughter, but was afterward
told that the people had frequently tried to exterminate
them, without success, however, since they are so numerous
and breed so rapidly that it is considered time and trouble
thrown away. They submit to the nuisance with the best
possible grace until the advent of cold weather, when, for
two or three days, all the doors and windows are thrown
open. This freezes or stupefies the roaches, whose carcases
are then picked from all the cracks and crevices and de
stroyed, and afterward the whole house undergoes a thor
ough scrubbing and sweeping.
While prying about among the huts, hovels, and fisheries
of the settlement with an eye for the curious, I thrust my
head into a low, dark room in a dilapidated log cabin that
stood apart from the rest of the houses, and was immediate
ly struck with the dismalness of the place. A dungeon sug
gested itself to my mind at first ; but what use they could
make of a dungeon in a peaceable little settlement like this,
where only two or three families resided, and they the most
harmless kind of people, I could not imagine.
A small pane of glass was set snugly in the logs on one
side of the room, which admitted so little light that I could

58 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
hardly distinguish an object. Gradually, as my eyes became
accustomed to the darkness, I saw that the ceiling was. very
low, and it, together with the walls, was blackened and
glossy, as if from smoke.
In one corner was a platform about five feet high, reached
by three wide wooden steps roughly made, but smooth on
the upper surfaces. In another corner was a low, rude oven,
made of loose cobble-stones piled carelessly over a kind of
iron frame-work, beneath which were pieces of charred wood,
and near by were two old barrels partially filled with water.
My curiosity was thoroughly aroused, so I called the atten
tion of my companions to the place, with a hope of getting
some explanation. Dodd told us it was a primitive specimen
of a Russian steam-bath. When a bath is about to be taken,
the barrels are filled with water, and the loose stones of the
oven are thoroughly heated by a fire1 beneath them, after
which some of them are thrown into one of the barrels for
the purpose of heating the water contained in it. The water
of the other barrel is allowed to remain cold for the final
souse. The door of the room is then opened to allow the
foul air, or " ouga," as the Russians call it, to escape, when
the bather enters, perfectly strij>ped, and every thing is closed
up as tightly as. possible. To generate steam, cold water is
then thrown upon the hot stones, and in a few moments the
heat becomes almost unbearable, the upper platform, of course,
being the hottest. The wide steps are to enable the bather to
enjoy different degrees of temperature.
After perspiring to his heart's content, he gives himself a
thorough bathing in the hot water, winding up with the cold
souse, and then leaves the bath and dresses at his leisure in
a small anteroom adjoining. Frequently whole families —
men, women, and children — bathe at the same time.
It is a very necessary precaution to allow the gases to es
cape from the room before bathing, as, not unfrequently, dan
gerous consequences result from their presence. These peo
ple are very fond of the steam-bath, and will endure a sur
prising amount of heat.
It was late when we left Petropaulovski, and not havino-
much time in which to make the return trip before darkness
would settle upon us, our stay at Avatcha was brief, and ere

EQUESTRIANISM. . 59
long, we were trending our way on the back path. The ride
was most enjoyable, the atmosphere being in that delicious
neutral state, neither cold nor warm, when every breath is a
luscious draught, and one unconsciously laments his misfor
tune in not having been created with greater breathing ca
pacity. Neither was it without incident. Once we were startled
by the cry of "A wolf! wolves!" which caused us all to
look in the direction indicated. Revolvers were seized, and
other preparations made for the encounter ; but we soon per
ceived that it was a false alarm, the dreaded beasts being
Kennan and Mr. Bollman coming out to meet us. As we
joined them, Mr. Bollman was in the act of tightening his
saddle, which had just turned with him, dropping him gently
upon his head, but without injury. They too had been — not
deceived, as they were undecided, but — much puzzled as to
the nature ofthe animal that followed us, and had a hearty
laugh as they saw the nose and ears of the " adjutant," just
discernible above the tall grass, trying to find its mother,
and making the woods ring with its loud whinnyings.
These horses, though dwarfed physically, are by no means
limited in sagacity, cunning, or trickishness. The one ridden
by Mr. Flenger was a perfect prodigy in gymnastic feats.
He was particularly fond of exhibiting his skill on the brinks
of steep hills, where, regardless of the feelings of his rider, he
delighted to indulge in the experiment of seeing how high he
could kick without going entirely over. Even my "gentle
mare" indulged herself once, but she was excusable on this
occasion. In accordance with my usual fate, the day could
not pass without my tumbling off, or being in some manner
awkwardly dismounted. It was just after one of those trots
over a stretch of beautiful upland, that terminated in a pre
cipitous bank about fifty feet high, which we had to descend.
Just after passing the brow of this declivity I felt my saddle
beginning to slip, and, stopping my horse, attempted to dis
mount on the grade ; but, during the trot, my foot and leg
had passed through to the rope loop or stirrup, which fact I
had overlooked, and, instead of landing 6n my feet, I found
myself suspended by one leg over the mare's head, with the
prospect of a descent of about thirty feet at a steep angle.

60 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
To relieve herself of the unpleasant weight, she began to
kick, thereby disengaging my foot. I picked myself up at
the bottom of the hill, none the worse, and, looking up, saw
the creature standing in the same old place, from which she
had witnessed my evolutions, apparently with the greatest
satisfaction. We made one more halt at a group of houses called Hou-
tre, a pastoral settlement about three miles from town. Here
quantities of rich milk were drunk by our party, in spite of
earnest, frequent warnings that it would become butter be
fore we could reach our destination ; and, shortly afterward,
sore, tired, but, withal, well pleased with our days' ride, just
, as the last ray of the setting sun was quivering upon the
very pinnacle of Old Avatcha, we galloped into Petropau
lovski. Friday, August 25th, being the last day Mahood and I were
to spend in Petropaulovski, we devoted it to procuring furs
for our winter journey ; these can be purchased at a lower
price here than on the Amoor, and are of a much finer qual
ity. The most important article of fur costume for winter
use is the " kuklanker," a large, shirt-like garment that reach
es to the knees, made of two thicknesses of reindeer skin, with
the fur on, and having a hood, to be worn over the head, at
tached at the neck. This hood is usually bordered with long,
soft dog or wolf fur, as a protection to the face in a cold wind
or snow-storm. Some of these garments are made of the
skins of unborn fawns, to obtain which the mother is killed,
and are so fine and beautiful that, at a short distance, they
much resemble " doeskin" cloth. Such are quite expensive,
being usually ornamented at the bottom with a broad belt
of finely-embroidered patterns in differently-colored silk, or
by the insertion of flowers or scroll-work figures of other col
ored reindeer skins. The whole is then bordered with a wide
strip of beaver or otter, and sometimes even of sable skins,
which give the garment a very rich and elegant appearance.
Domestic reindeer vary in color from pure white to a dark
brown, and some are beautifully spotted, so that almost any
taste can be gratified in the selection of suits.
In addition to kuklankers, we each purchased " torbassa,"
" chazee," " malachis," etc. The " torbassa" are long fur

KAMTCHATKA FURS. 61
boots, reaching to or above the knees, made of the legs of the
deer, as the hair is shorter and closer, and the skin more du
rable than that of any other portion of the animal ; they are
generally soled with bear or seal skin, and are tied around
the ankle and knee with long strips of leather to support
them. " Chazees," or fur socks, are made of dog, reindeer, or
wolf skin (the last being best), and are worn with the fur next /
the foot ; they are gotten up wholly regardless of looks, much
resembling a gouty foot heavily bandaged. " Malachis" are
fur bonnets, shaped like an old woman's cap, intended to be
worn under the hood, attached to the " kuklanker." These
articles, with mittens, buckskin pants, and " archaniks," com
pleted our costume.
" Archaniks" are not only useful, but ornamental ; they are
beautiful black tippets, made very ingeniously of the tails of
Siberian squirrels, and are intended to be carried between the
teeth, as a protection to the lower part of the face while
facing a cold wind, in the same manner that the Greenland-
ers use fox's tails.
Kamtchatka furs are of the finest quality, particularly the
sable, which is considered equal to, if not superior, to any pro
duced in the whole Russian possessions. Ermine, river ot
ter,- silver-gray, black, and red foxes, besides many other vari
eties of fur-bearing animals, are also found here.
The annual "yassak," or taxes imposed by government
upon the natives, are always collected in furs, amounting in
value, I am told, to two roubles for each male individual be
tween the ages of fifteen and fifty. In collecting this yassak,
each person subject to taxation is required to furnish a sable
skin, or other furs amounting to the same value, from which
the collector selects as many of the best as are required to
pay the tax assessed upon the community, taking them at
about one half their market value. The remainder, to insure
justice and impartiality, is then sold, and the proceeds di
vided equally among those who furnished the skins.
In this manner the finest furs generally fall into the hands
of government, and are reserved for the private use of the
royal family. At the time of our visit, large quantities of
furs derived from this source were stored in the government
magazines, awaiting transportation. Cossack sentries were

62 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
kept continually posted over them as a guard, though one
would think there was little danger of their being molested,
since, I am told, the penalty is death to steal from the gov
ernment. (A pity that such a law could not be established
and enforced in America.)
Notwithstanding this extreme punishment, but a short time
before our arrival the magazine had been entered, and several
thousand dollars' worth of furs extracted. These were after
ward recovered, however, and the culprit had been detected
and imprisoned, to be sent to Nikolayefsk for trial.

KAMTCHATKA SABLES.
Many persons labor under the impression that in Kamt
chatka and Eastern Siberia, the source from which many of
the most valuable furs are derived, these articles are to be
obtained at very low prices, but in this they are much mis
taken. The trade has been carried on for so long a time, and
there has been so much competition in it, that the native
hunters now fully appreciate the values of different skins, and
demand prices accordingly. They have even progressed so
far in " Yankeeism" as to resort to trickery, it being a very
common ruse of theirs to hang poor, light-colored pelts, more
particularly sable, up in the smoke, to give them a rich, dark
hue. In this they have been detected, though, and now, in
purchasing a skin, the trader always first applies it to his

DEPARTURE FROM PETROPAULOVSKI. 63
nose, or brushes it with his handkerchief, and then blows it,
to discover its quality and thickness.
Sables we found worth from six to thirty dollars per skin,
according to color and quality, and other furs in proportion
— that is, among the merchants in Petropaulovski.
The day before our departure, Southern Kamtchatka was
visited with a severe thunder-storm, the first for many years,
the residents of the town stated.
Having finished our purchases and laid in a good supply
of " Manillas" for the voyage, the remainder of the day was
devoted to making farewell calls upon our new friends., from
whom we procured many letters to private parties on the
Amoor. Armed with these, together with others to Admiral
Furruhelm, recently appointed governor of the sea-coast
provinces of Eastern Siberia, and to Mr. Chase, United States
Commissary Agent at Nikolayefsk, we anticipated no diffi
culty in acquiring information, and obtaining all the assist
ance possible to further our explorations, and at 2 A.M.,
August 26th, stepped aboard the "Olga" for the last time
from Petropaulovski.

64 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

CHAPTER HI.
Good-by. — Departure. — Parting Glimpses of Avatcha Bay and Surroundings.
— Fog. — Currents. — Difficult Navigation. — Dead Reckoning. — Breakers
ahead! — Narrow Escape. — Renewed Danger. — Preparations for Land
ing. — A Puff. — At Sea again. — Ushishir and Ketoy Islands. — Simusir. —
Boussole Channel. — Provost Mountain. — Chirnoi Group and Volcanoes. —
The Okhotsk. — Beautiful Weather. — Whales. — Saghalin Island. — La Pe-
rouse Straits. — Danger Rock. — Gale. — Japanese Islands. — Jesso. — Sail
ho ! — Gulf of Tartary. — Manchuria. — Mare's Tails and Mackerel Backs. —
De Castries Bay. — Shipping Importance. — Contemplated Canal and Rail
way. — Alexandrofski. — Barracks. — Telegraphic Communication. — Cor
vettes. ¦ — Natural Bridge. — Hospitality. — Wire down.- — Russian Officers. —
Orders from St. Petersburg. — Inland Route. — Preparations for Journey. —
Scarcity of Horses.- — Queer Substitute; — Soldiers. — Mount Arbod. — Start.
— Rain. — Bad Roads. — Beregovoi Hills. — Deck Passages, Shipwrecks, and
Chop Sea. — Lake Kidzi. — Tederovsk. — Soldier Station-keepers. — Gilaks.
— Appearance and Dress. — Interior of Hut. — Deference. — Hospitality. —
Unappreciative. " Good by's," if indulged in too often, are rather wearing
upon one's constitution ; and even one of the nature of that
we bade the last night in Petropaulovski is very exhaustive
in its effects, so much so that it was quite late the next morn
ing before I found myself upon deck. Mahood was ahead of
me, however, he having found it necessary to make one more
trip ashore, to procure something forgotten the day before.
Not unfrequently vessels anchored in the small bay have to
wait some days for a favorable breeze by which to work out
around the promontory, but this morning every thing favored
our departure, and, upon emerging from below decks, I was
not surprised at finding the little brig slowly passing the
sandspit, though the captain had got under way sooner than
he had anticipated.
As she advanced the brig gathered headway, and Mahood
had some difficulty overtaking us ; but, just as we breasted
" Babushka," his boat caught up, bringing Kennan, and Mr.
Flenger also, who had come to bid us farewell once more.
The adieu was passed, not without some feelings of emotion,
on my part at least. We each had long and difficult, if not

AT SEA. 65
dangerous tasks before us ; months would elapse before their
completion, and then it was questionable whether our little
band would ever be reunited. Where and when, if -at all, we
were to meet again, the great Disposer alone knew.
The day was unexceptionable, warm and pleasant, and the
atmosphere so pure and transparent that most distant objects
loomed up with remarkable distinctness. Avatcha, Villen-
chinski, and Roselskoi stood forth in all their majesty, at
tired in most gorgeous array of blue and silver, cleaving the
bright blue firmament with their towering crests. The grass-
covered slopes ofthe adjoining shore, dotted with rich green
clusters of foliage, were yet damp with the morning's dew,
which the slanting rays of the sun converted into myriads
of sparkling gems, all of which, together with every massive
cliff and fantastic turret of rock, was reflected in the unruffled
water with a distinctness that rivaled the reality. All nature
seemed to have conspired in rendering this, our last glimpse
at Avatcha Bay and its surroundings, unsurpassable in beau
ty. Even the water-fowl, as if by preconcerted arrangement,
approached nearer to display their brilliant plumage, and
seals, usually shy, raised their spotted heads out of the water
within stone-throw of our craft, and with their large, soft eyes
seemed to bid us Godspeed. But a gentle breeze, barely strong
enough to swell our white sails, aided by a good tide, soon
bore us beyond this enchanting scene, and, before many hours
had elapsed, we were once more on the mighty deep, envel
oped in one of the dense fog-banks so common to this coast.
We missed the presence of our former companions very
much for some days, but by degrees became reconciled to the
new order of things, and settled down to the old daily routine
of amusements.
For days the fog continued without cessation, sometimes
lighting up sufficiently at noon to allow the captain to get
an observation, but we had to depend mainly upon the log-
line and compass to judge of our whereabouts. Upon the
Kamtchatkan coast this kind of navigation is very uncertain,
owing to strong, trickish currents, which in a very short time
sweep a vessel entirely out of her reckoning. To be on the
safe side, we kept pretty well out at sea until we had cleared
the lower end of Kamtchatka, when the brig was headed for
E

66 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
the uppermost passage through the Kurile Islands, to try and
effect a passage into the Okhotsk Sea, Other and much bet
ter passes exist farther south, but sometimes vessels are de
layed days and even weeks from getting through by unfa
vorable winds, or fogs, or calms. Fearing such a disaster, it
was deemed advisable to avail ourselves of the earliest op
portunity of reaching the sea.
Notwithstanding the continuance and density of the fog,
we still clung to our course, hoping for clear sailing before
reaching the islands, and trusting to a sharp lookout forward
to warn us of the proximity of land should the fog still con
tinue to oppose us.
Nothing of interest transpired during this part of the voy
age up to Friday, August 29th, about noon of which day two
or three of us were assembled upon deck watching for land
indications. "There she blows !" cried the captain, referring
to the spout of a whale ; but we barely had time to glance
in the direction indicated when that most ominous and thrill
ing of all cries to the mariner, " Breakers ahead !" came from
the lookout. The dashing spray, barely discernible through
the fog, had been mistaken by the captain for the blowing of
a whale. In another minute we found ourselves girdled on
three sides by the breakers, the angry surf splashing thirty
feet into the air, but the land beyond was obscured by the
fog. The warning cry had hardly been given before all was
bustle and excitement.
Not a moment was to be lost. The ship was rushing on
with good headway, and would soon be grinding in the jaws
of the rock -fiends, without hope of extrication. A heavy
swell was rolling in from seaward, and greatly diminished
our chances for escape. But, thanks to a prompt execution
of the captain's rapidly-given orders, the ship whirled on her
course, and we soon had the gratification of knowing that
the dreaded rocks were being slowly but surely left in the
lurch. When, at length, the danger was passed, all breathed more
freely, and, as is frequently the case, joking succeeded anxiety.
We indulged in a little romancing as to the life we would have
led upon one of these cold, volcanic islands, and shipwrecked
too. What thrilling narratives of our sufferings, narrow es-

A NARROW ESCAPE. 67
capes, etc., would be afterward published in the papers ! But'
soon the joke dampened, for it was perceived that the wind
was fast dying out, and still we were not more than two miles
from the rocks. Our vessel for some time scarcely moved,
and then stopped altogether, her sails hanging straight up
and down the mast, except as she rolled and plunged over
the heavy sea rollers, when, with a loud snapping, they would
flap against the masts, each report serving as a disagreeable
reminder of our utter helplessness. The action of the waves
was undoubtedly carrying us toward the rocks, but so slowly
that we hoped to catch a fresh breeze before reaching them.
Ere many minutes had elapsed we were all startled at again
hearing the distant roar of the breakers, and immediately
afterward the fog appeared to lift, for we could see, though
indistinctly, the white surf splashing into the air.
Now, for the first time, it was discovered that we were
being rapidly swept by a strong current toward the reef,
upon which, at the rate we were drifting, the vessel would be
dashed in a half hour's time, unless favored by a fresh breeze.
The deep sea lead was dropped with the hope of finding
anchorage, but down, down it sank, and no bottom. Anxious
ly we watched the sails to try and detect the slightest puff
of wind ; the sailors began to whistle and scratch the mast,
but every moment it grew more calm, if possible. At this
time the destruction of the vessel appeared inevitable, and
the mate received orders to clear the tackle for lowering the
long-boat. At this I went below to gather together a few
indispensable articles to be carried ashore should we be com
pelled to abandon the ship.
Mahood was already ahead of me. In our seal-skin bags
we packed our furs and other articles most likely to be need
ed, not forgetting a good supply of rifle ammunition, by which, '
•in all probability, we would have to subsist ourselves should
we reach shore in safety. Having completed our prepara
tions, the parcels were left at the foot of the cabin stairs, con
venient for getting at, and we returned to deck.
The ship was now within rifle-shot of the rocks, heaving
heavily over the waves, and yet not a breath of air stirring.
The men stood at the tackle, ready to lower the boat at the
command. Once more the lead was dropped, but no bottom.

68 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
Nearer and nearer we drifted, until it became evident that
we must abandon the ship. Just as the captain was about
to give the order to lower the boat, one of the sailors exult-
ingly cried, " There's a puff!" Casting our eyes quickly up
ward, we saw the maintop-gallant-sail flutter for a moment,
but it immediately straightened out again. The suspense
was awful. In a moment this was succeeded by another and
another puff, each a little heavier than the last. The brig
was holding her own against the current. In an hour's time
we had the gratification of knowing that several miles of
ocean lay between us and the dreaded breakers.
The breeze continued until the next day, Wednesday, at
12 o'clock, the fog disappearing in the mean while. As we
sailed southward, we made out " Ushishir" and " Ketoy" Isl
ands, both of which are small peaks rising abruptly from the
water. At night Simusir Island appeared on the horizon.
Before morning the wind again died away completely, leav
ing us becalmed abreast of the lower end of the island. Only
twelve miles were made during the following twenty-four
hours, but just at dark, Thursday, a light breeze sprung up,
which enabled us, with the advantage of daylight, to pass
nearly through Boussole Channel : this channel is the most
southerly and largest of the Kurile Straits, and lies between
Simusir and the " Chirnoi" group. It is the dividing line be
tween the Russian and Japanese possessions.
We were awakened early the following morning by the
mate calling to us to come on deck " to see the volcanoes."
The brig was yet lying in Boussole Channel. Thirty miles
to the northward lay " Simusir," visible its whole length —
about twenty^seven miles, above which Provost Mountain
loomed, disclosing near its summit the crater of an extinct
volcano. Ten miles to the southwest was the "Chirnoi"
group — small, rocky islands, surmounted by several quite
high mountains, from three of which rolled dense volumes of
steam and smoke, that lingered about their summits, and cast
a pall-like shadow upon the water for miles around. We
much hoped and expected there would be an eruption, but
night came on and passed away without any farther demon
strations, and the next morning all land had faded from sight.
While crossing Okhotsk Sea to La Perouse Straits, for sev-

LA PERQUSE STRAIT. 69
eral days the weather was most beautiful, though the winds
were light. Hardly a cloud appeared in the heavens. The
sunsets were perfectly gorgeous, baffling description; and a
bright, full moon, beaming from the cloudless sky upon the
vast expanse of water, and reflected from our white sails upon
the little craft, converted night into day. It was so warm
that we could sit whole evenings upon deck without coats
or hats. During the hours of sunlight we found abundant
amusement shooting at sea-parrots and other fowl, and watch
ing whales, upward of a hundred of which were counted in
one day. These, however, belonged to a species of little val
ue to whalers, as their yield of oil is very small.
On the evening of September 5th the island of Sagbalin ap
peared on the horizon, toward the lower end of which we rap
idly approached, favored with a strong breeze from the east.
" mare's tails," " mackerel backs," and other indications of
a strong wind were seen during the afternoon, and those
aboard conversant with marine indications predicted a heavy
gale before morning. As we were just about to enter La
Perouse Strait, we sincerely hoped that it would blow favor
ably. This strait, lying between the islands of Saghalin and
Jesso, is twenty^five miles in width at the narrowest point.
Near its middle is a rock called " Dangerous Rock" — a very
appropriate name, as vessels are apt to run upon it either in
foggy weather or upon a dark night, unless forewarned of
their proximity to it by the bellowing of seals, that infest it
in large numbers.
At dark we took a southwesterly course, which could be
kept for a distance of forty miles without danger, by which
time we hoped to have daylight to enable us to pass through
the Strait in safety. At midnight the gale struck us, fortu
nately from the east. We ran our course as long as we
dared, but it soon became so dark that land could not have
been distinguished at the shortest distance. It was then
deemed advisable to run northward a few miles and " lay to"
for daylight. I think it must have been very rough during
the night, as twice my trunk upset, scattering the contents
all over the cabin ; and several times, looking from my berth,
I sa'w our boots and the spittoons having a very spirited
game of " puss in the corner."

70 REINDMER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
At daylight the next morning we were howling past Dan
ger Rock under a close-reefed maintop-sail, the sea white
with foam, and the heavy waves, in close pursuit, threatening
every instant to break over the quarter-deck and deluge the
ship. The northern end of the island of Jesso, one of the
Japanese group, lay close at hand a little to the southward,
distinctly visible from deck as we were passing ; also several
smaller ones, partially cultivated, though the inhabitants of
this portion of these islands subsist mainly upon fish, I am
told. At 4 o'clock P.M. the island of " Totomosiri" came in
sight, and at night we lay becalmed on the " Gulf of Tar-
tary," though the water was still quite rough, and a heavy
chop sea breaking under the ship's counter.
The next day the cry of " Sail-ho !" was heard for the first
time, and aroused all hands; for, though we had been at sea
nearly sixty days, not a vessel had been sighted during the
voyage up to this time. It was a brig 'bound evidently for
"Castries" Bay or the Amoor, those; being the only ports
north of us, and, our destination being the same, as if by mu
tual agreement, a race was arranged between the two vessels.
Saturday, the 9th, was a perfectly beautiful day, though
rather warm in the sun, the thermometer standing at + 95°.
As we advanced, the high coast of Saghalin Island on one
side, and that of " Manchuria" to the westward, came into
view, gradually approaching each other toward the north.
The Manchuria coast, nearest which we sailed, is high and
very bold, the country back being densely wooded with a
species of fir, as it appeared from the vessel.
During the last day and a half of our voyage, which occu
pied fifteen days, the barometer had been falling very rapidly.
The heavens portrayed other indications of a gale, and the one
we had experienced in La Perouse Strait being fresh in our
memory, we were more than glad when, at 6 P.M., September
10th, the light-house on the southerly point of De Castries
Bay appeared. Shortly afterward, just as the wind was be
ginning to whistle through the rigging, we changed our
course, passing between Light-house Point and another "Dan
ger" rock, that lies in the entrance of this bay, though cov
ered at high water, and were soon lying quietly at anchor,
sheltered by a number of small wooded islands from the

DE CASTRIES BAT. 71
storm that was raging outside. The strange brig dropped
anchor just five minutes ahead of us.
De Castries Bay, or " Castries," as it is frequently called, is
a small indenture in the coast of Manchuria, distant about
one hundred and fifty miles below Nikolayefsk, which town
is situated near the niouth of the Amoor River. It was dis
covered by La Perouse, the French navigator, in the year
178*7, and named by him in honor of the Marquis De Castries,
at one time Minister of Marine of France. Vessels bound
for the Amoor always enter this port to procure pilots, or to
await the arrival of one of the Russian corvettes from Niko
layefsk, which frequently steam down for the purpose of tow
ing vessels to that port. This precaution is necessary on ac
count of the difficult navigation of the upper end of the Gulf
of Tartary, and of the " Liman," or Gulf of the Amoor, the
latter, in particular, being very shoal, and the channels nar
row, intricate, and shifting. It is not deemed safe for vessels
to attempt the passage without favorable weather and good
pilots, unless attended by one of the steamers.
By reference to the chart, it will be seen that the Amoor
River, at a point distant about two hundred miles above its
mduth, near the Russian town of Marinsk, is not more than
fifty miles west of Castries Bay. From this point the river
flows nearly due north parallel to the coast-line about one
hundred and fifty miles, and then turns eastward to join the
Liman. For two thirds of the distance between Castries and Ma
rinsk there is water communication by way of Lake Kidzi, a
small sheet of water adjoining the Amoor River, and over
the fifteen miles of land portage remaining a corduroy road
has been constructed, leading over " Beregovoi Khrebel," a
range of low hills forming the water-shed.
Owing to these natural advantages — the shortness of the
portage from Castries to Lake Kidzi, and the accessibility of"
the good, though small bay and harbor — the Russians at one
time strongly entertained the idea of building either a rail
road or canal connecting the bay with the Amoor, thereby
avoiding the shoals and other obstacles in the Liman ; but,
as yet, no further steps have been taken toward completing
the work than to make some preliminary surveys, from which

72 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
one or both ofthe above projects are deemed perfectly feasi
ble. The bay itself is a very pretty little sheet of water, about
two miles in extent, surmounted by low, densely-wooded hills,
and dotted with small islands, also wooded, which protect ves
sels anchored inside from easterly winds. At the time we
dropped anchor the water was scarcely rippled, though out
side in the gulf a strong gale was blowing.
The little harbor presented quite a lively appearance, there
being five other vessels lying at anchor near us. Between
these boats were continually passing back and forth. Just
in front of us was the Russian settlement of Alexandrofski,
founded in the year 1853, built partly upon the newly-cleared
slope of one ofthe adjacent hills, and partly upon a rocky pro
jection extending into the bay, surrounded by abrupt cliffs
undermined at the base by the action of tides. This settle
ment is but little more than a small military post without
fortifications. In addition to barracks for five hundred men
and the government magazines, it contains only one or two
stores and a telegraph station. From this point there is tel
egraphic communication with Nikolayefsk by the way of the
Amoor River. Only a portion of the town could be seen
from our ship's deck.
Our sails were hardly clewed up before several parties
boarded us from shore and the other vessels, but no informal
tion could be obtained from them concerning the time of the
arrival of the next corvette, consequently we were forced to
wait until we could reach shore the next morning, and ascer
tain by telegraph, before deciding upon the next step to be
taken. Should no corvette come within a day or two, we
had decided to attempt the inland route.
As we were approaching shore the next morning, a very
beautiful natural arch came into view, reaching in a oraceful
curve from the rocky projection to a tower of rock standing
in the water, and having a span of about twenty-five feet.
Its ragged sides, clothed with patches of brilliantly-colored ,
mosses, and grass - covered summit, in which a half dozen
gnarled, weather -scarred old firs had taken root, together
with the tides boiling over hidden rocks and rolling back
and forth, beneath its curve— now rushing madly into the

ALEXANDROFSKI. 73
deep cavities at the base of the cliff, and now sweeping back
to rejoin their element — and the sweeping beach, distant
green fields, and patches of blue sky that disclosed them
selves to view beneath the span as we sailed by, afforded
elements for a beautiful art study.
Close by was a long flight of wooden steps, by which we
ascended from the beach to the plateau above, and thence,
following a winding path through groves of firs for a few
hundred yards, reached the store and residence of a firm of
German merchants, Messrs. Esche & Company. The house
was large and comfortable, and the site admirably chosen.
From the verandas we had a charming view of the bay,
islands, and shipping.
Our reception by the gentlemanly proprietors of this es
tablishment was very cordial, and one of them kindly volun
teered to accompany us to the telegraph station as interpret
er. The station is distant nearly a mile from Mr. Esche's
store. It is a newly-constructed, plain log building, situated
on a gradual slope overlooking a portion of the bay, and sur
rounded by innumerable stumps, relics of the forest but re
cently cleared away. The whole aspect of the place was
such as one might find in some of our own Western border
towns. Unfortunately, upon arriving at the telegraph station, we
learned that the line was out of repair between Sofyevsk and
Nikolayefsk, and as not unfrequently days elapse before it is
put in working order again, we decided at once to take the
inland route, and risk catching one of the Amoor steamers
at Marinsk.
Several of the Russian officers located at this post joined
us at the station, and offered every facility for the prosecu
tion of our journey, at the same time conveying to us the
welcome information that instructions had been received from
St. Petersburg by commandants of posts in the regions to be
traversed by our line for them to give us, or any of the offi
cers ofthe expedition, whatever assistance might be required.
The hearty co-operation of the Russians enabled us, later, to
accomplish much more than would have been possible under
other circumstances.
Having decided to start the following day, preparations

74 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
for the journey were at once commenced, and messengers sent
into the neighboring country to gather horses for the ride to
the lake. Provisions, blankets, and a few luxuries, consisting
chiefly of cigars, were packed in convenient parcels for road
use, and our preparations completed, when we learned that
only three horses could be obtained for the trip, and only two
saddles were in the place. Under these circumstances, since
the captain of the Olga had decided to accompany us, we
were at a loss to know how to cany our supplies and bag
gage, but the commandant of the post relieved us of our em
barrassment by kindly offering us three soldiers for the pur
pose, to carry them on foot to the lake, distant about twenty-
five versts. We felt some reluctance in making beasts of
burden of men, but, for want of other transportation, grate
fully accepted his novel offer.
These soldiers are not much more than drafted laborers,
sent to the Amoor to settle the country. I was informed
that they are required to serve fifteen years for an annual
salary of three roubles, the government supplying them with
rations of brown bread, and occasionally a little tea. Their
chief food is fish, which they are required to catch for them
selves, but at Castries Bay they also have oysters : these are
quite large and very good, I was told.
The morning ofthe 12th of September did not dawn auspi
ciously for the commencement of our journey. Mount " Ar-
bod,"* the barometer ofthe Alexandrofskians, was enveloped
at its summit in a threatening cloud, a sure indication of bad
weather, they say, and none had any hesitancy in predicting
a wet ride for us to the lake. For this, however, we were
well provided, having good rubber ponchos, and being also as
sured that by night we would reach Marinsk, on the Amoor,
and find good comfortable quarters, such discomforts and in
conveniences as one day might produce did not deter us from
making the start.
The poor fellows plodding along with oui baggage would
suffer most, but they started off ahead of us, as though such
business was nothing new to them, and apparently glad of
* Mount Arbod is a wooded peak 1500 feet high, lying just back of Al-
exandrofski. It serves as a landmark to vessels wishing to enter Castries
Bay.

A CORDUROY ROAD. 75
the opportunity of breaking in upon the usual monotony of
their life at the Bay.
Our horses were much like those we saw in Kamtchatka —
somewhat larger, if any thing, but their equipment was more
complete and systematic, excepting the total absence of one
saddle. Who would ride bare-back ? was then the question.
The captain readily volunteered, though " he didn't go much
on land navigation," but he thought he could stand it for
three hours, by which time we were told we would reach
Tederovsk, the first lake station ; and, should he get tired,
we could change about during the trip.
About 7 o'clock we commenced our journey, following for
a few minutes a narrow road, cut through the forest along a
portion of the shore, which afforded a beautiful prospect of
the Bay, and then dipped down into some low swamp land,
traversed by the most dilapidated, wet, and slippery corduroy
road I ever saw. By this time the heavens had opened their
floodgates, and rain was falling in perfect torrents, making it
impossible to keep dry even with rubbers. Our progress was
necessarily slow on account of bad roads, and several times
we had to dismount and lead our horses around through the
swamp to avoid places where the road had been undermined,
and the small logs of which it was composed misplaced or
broken. Soon we emerged from the swamp and began the ascent
of the " Beregovoi Hills," a densely wooded, gradual slope,
hardly deserving the name of hills at this point, though.
The soil consisted of a thick, sticky, yellow clay, and on the
hill-sides the road had been very much damaged by heavy
rains, affording the worst kind of travel for either man or
beast. We had passed the soldiers on the road shortly after
starting, and a -truly forlorn, dilapidated, water-soaked party
they were. Riding we found disagreeable enough, but when
contrasting the comforts of our own position with those of
the soldiers, we felt we had reason to congratulate ourselves.
Our ride was slow and monotonous, occasionally relieved
by the stumbling or slipping of a horse, or some of the cap
tain's droll, nautical criticisms ofthe situation. He expressed
himself decidedly opposed to deck passages on land or sea,
especially so when there is nothing to prevent you from fall-

76 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
ing overboard ; a number of times he narrowly escaped being
" shipwrecked" when his horse stumbled, and the continual
slipping of his beast produced a " ground swell" that he
thought would " stave in his counter, sure, before he could
get into port."
The country traversed by this road is thickly wooded,
mostly with larch, but we also saw a few aspens, spruce, pine,
and birch-trees. The corduroy road extends nearly the whole
distance to the lake, there being at intervals short stretches
of hard road, over which we endeavored to make up for lost
time by whipping up our horses, but, in spite of all we could
do, six long and very wet hours rolled by before we caught
a glimpse ofthe narrow, dismal-looking sheet of water known
as Lake Kidzi, and set in a damp, gloomy framework of larch-
trees. It was undoubtedly a dreary-looking place, but we
first saw it under most unfavorable circumstances.
The sheet at this point is about one mile in width, and the
banks low and swampy, the only traces of man's presence
being the rickety corduroy road, and a most dilapidated, tum
ble-down-looking hovel, built at the water's edge. This was
" Tederovsk," the first station on the lake, but for several
minutes we thought we had lost our road and wandered off
to the fishing-hut of some dispirited, broken-down exile, who
was anxious to get as far from the world and mankind as pos
sible. No one responded to our shouts, and the solitary
small door of the hut was bolted from the outside. Had it
not been for the vicious snapping and barking of a small cur
that assailed our horses' heels as we rode up, we would have
thought the place abandoned.
By this time all of us were perfectly wet and tired out, so
much so that even the hovel was a welcome sight, and we
had just resolved to take informal possession, when a small,
box-like boat, containing two men, was seen approaching from
the distance, while two other beings approached along the
water's edge. These last were evidently natives of the coun
try, and, from their appearance, were objects of a good deal
of interest and curiosity to us, though by no means prepos
sessing in their looks, or calculated to inspire one with admi
ration. How to classify them we did not know, except as
under the general head of Tartars.

THE GILAKS. 77
From small patches of skin that were in a few places visi
ble through the dirt in which they were clothed, we judged
their complexion to be midway between those of the Chinese
and the American Indians. Their features were decidedly
Mongolian — almond-shaped eyes, flattish noses, and coarse
black hair; but most prominent of all were their cheek-bones,
which were exceedingly large, so much so as to completely
obscure the rest of the face in profile view. N
„/ They^were a filthy-looking pair, clad in dirty, greasy skin
garments, with naked feet and legs, and their long, coarse,
uncombed hair, that had once been braided, hung down their
backs in queues. That of the man (for both sexes were rep
resented) was arranged much like the " tail" of a Chinaman,
in a single braid, with the exception that no part of his head
was shaven. The woman wore two braids, or what had once
been such, since her hair, as well as that of her husband, was
a perfect mass of tangle, and becoming more so every mo
ment through the energetic clawing and digging of several
long, unwashed fingers.
We would have experienced some little difficulty in decid
ing which was the man and which the woman had it not been
for a long-stemmed pipe, with amber mouth-piece and minia
ture brass bowl, which the former smoked, while his fair part
ner carried a number of fine, large, freshly-caught fish.
- The pair/were members of a- tribe numbering about 8000
souls, called Gilaks, a branch of the Tungusians — so stated,
though, as we afterward found, a very different people from
the Tungusians whom we encountered in our journeys. The
Gilaks were the original inhabitants of the country of the
Lower Amoor at the time of the first visit of whites to that
section, and for an unknown period previously. \
By this time the two boatmen had paddled up, and drawn
their small scow upon the beach. They proved to be Rus
sian soldiers, and the keepers of the station ; and, as one of
them was a native ofthe Baltic provinces and familiar with
German, we had no difficulty in conversing through the cap
tain, who was himself of Teutonic origin.
Having turned our horses over to the soldiers, who fast
ened them beneath a small straw-thatched shelter close by,
followed by the Gilaks and several chickens, we found our

78 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
way into a smoke -blackened apartment, lighted by a piece
of fish-skin set in a small aperture in the log-walls. A large
brick " peachka" covered three fourths of the dirt floor of the
room, upon the top of which was stored away a good supply
of dried fish and wood drying for fuel. In two of the corners
were narrow bunks covered with rags, very repulsive in ap
pearance, and in another corner was a small rude table and
a couple of stools.\
YAs soon as she entered the apartment, the Gilak woman,
out of deference to us, though in a very immodest manner,
posted herself upon one of the beds, and began to attire her
self a little more decently, neglecting, however, either to wash
herself or comb her hair ; but, poor thing, even what slight
alterations she made in her appearance was a very difficult
proceeding, since either one hand or the other was constant
ly employed answering the summons of innumerable creat
ures, which, though invisible, were, to all appearances, by no
means unfeltA
Shortly our hosts joined us, and one of them very hospita
bly offered us of his larder, thinking us, no doubt, hungry
after the long ride, as in fact we were; but the appearance
of the black, nondescript substance he offered us was suffi
cient to appease our appetites temporarily, and we excused
ourselves on the plea that we did not wish to deprive him in
the least, and that our own supplies were momentarily ex
pected. Often, during succeeding journeys, we were glad to
avail ourselves of such fare, but, as yet, had not become ini
tiated into Siberian experiences sufficiently, consequently we
preferred to nurse our appetites and await the arrival of our
own, even at the expense of a little internal gnawing at those
parts most affected by the absence of nourishment.

GLOOMY PROSPECTS. 79

CHAPTER IV.
At Tederovsk. — Gloomy Prospects. — Route to Yevetevo Station. — Our Con
veyance. — Arrival of the Soldiers. — Off again. — Dismal. — Dangerous Po
sition. — Terra firma. — A Night Tramp along the Shores of the Lake. —
Hard Traveling. — Darkness. — Exhaustion.- — Wading the Lake. — Hope and
Disappointment. — One more Effort. — The Signal. — The Boat. — Arrival
at Yevetevo. — The Station. — Our Repast. — Cockroaches. — Appetites. —
Dissatisfied Boatman. — Brick Tea. — Off for Vlademirsk. — The Scene. —
Vlademirsk. — No Boat. — Russian Soldiers. — Obliging Officer. — The De
tail. — Barge. — Admirable Traits.— Boshniak. — Marinsk. — Gilak Lotka.
— The Commandant. — Contrast. — Mr. Rosenheim. — Disappointment. — A
Dilemma.- — Extrication. — Poor Accommodations. — Russian Hospitality.
— Indolent Males. — Brutality toward the Weaker Sex. — The Boat. — De
parture. — The Amoor. — Gilaks. — Habitations. — Subsistence. — Salmon. —
Women Rowing. — Scenery of the Amoor.
While delayed at Tederovsk by the non-arrival ofthe sol
diers with our supplies and baggage, time passed tediously
enough. The dreary, dingy little hovel, together with our
rapidly -increasing appetites, the gloomy weather outside,
and a fear that our men might be so late in arriving as to
necessitate our spending the night upon the dirt floor of the
cabin, created a feeling of depression and ennui so strong as
hardly to succumb even to the cheering and consoling influ
ences of our pipes and cigars.
We stood it for three hours, at the end of which time, by
dint of a good deal of persuading, our host produced a small,
precious package of tea from some out-of-the-way crevice, and
prepared for us a liberal allowance of that beverage. An hour
later, at 5 P.M., the rain fell in torrents, and night began to
settle rapidly over the cheerless landscape. It was six miles
direct, by water, to the next station, and, in answer to our
inquiries, we found that the only way of reaching that point
was by means of the miserable little box-like craft we had
seen on the lake. It was even questionable whether this
craft was large enough to contain our party, to say nothing
of the extra weight of baggage, and there was no means of
computing the length of time likely to be consumed in mak
ing the passage. .

80 • REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
These discouraging circumstances had decided us to re
main over night, when the arrival of our baggage and the
prospect of more comfortable lodgings at Yevetevo, the next
station, induced us to continue our journey, notwithstanding
the rain and darkness.
The poor soldiers were entirely used up and saturated, but
a good draught of their favorite beverage, diluted alcohol,
and liberal compensation in Russian roubles, completely re
vived their spirits, and their fatigues and discomforts were
soon entirely forgotten. One of them, who spoke German,
we decided to take with us as interpreter until another could
be obtained.
A hasty but hearty lunch having been disposed of, but a
few moments were consumed in transferring ourselves and
baggage to the boat, and, ere long, we were being propelled
at a snail's pace by a pair of rude paddles in the hands of
one of the station-keepers toward the middle of the lake. A
small sail, about four feet square, had been hoisted, but, there
being no wind as yet, this did not add any to our speed.
Our boat was in itself quite a curiosity, and so poorly con
structed that a very slight movement to one side or the other
would well-nigh capsize her. For this reason we, each of us,
were allotted our particular locations, and great care was ob
served not to shift from them ih the least. The boat was a
shallow, flat-bottomed, square-sided structure, made of hewn
boards, and so small that, when containing our party and bag
gage, with the boatman, her gunwales were not more than
three inches above the water. Fortunately, the water was
perfectly smooth, there being no wind, and, wishing to shorten
the journey as much as possible, the craft was headed boldly
for the middle of the lake.
Rain still fell thick and fast, the heavy black cloud curtain
overhead having the appearance of being inexhaustible, and
the lowering shadows of nightfall portended any thing but
an agreeable trip. After having gone about two miles and
reached the middle of the lake, a light breeze sprang up from
the north, rolling low waves toward our boat, every one of
which dashed over her sides. Hats and every thing at hand
were used in bailing, but to no effect. The water slowly
gained upon us, and it became evident that if we continued

A NIGHT TRAMP NEAR THE LAKE. 81
our course the boat would surely swamp. Now our only
safety lay in reaching shore without delay, toward which ,the
prow was turned, and in a few minutes we reached terra
firma. A short consultation being held, we resolved to continue
our journey, but in so doing it would be necessary to lighten
the boat. To effect this, the captain, interpreter, and myself
volunteered to walk, picking our way as best we could along
the swampy shore, while Mahood and the boatman proceeded
with the boat and baggage. It was nearly dark, and, follow
ing the shore-line, about ten miles intervened between us and
our destination ; but we pushed on, little realizing the diffi
culty of the task before us. The low shore was very uneven,
being cut up with small watercourses, forming innumerable
hummocks, and strewn with half- buried logs, all of which
were obscured by a rank growth of grass that reached above
our shoulders in many places.
The rain still fell fast, and the tall grass through which we
had to wade had become so wet, that before proceeding one
hundred yards we were perfectly drenched, our very clothing
hanging about us like so- much lead, and greatly impeding
our progress.
In spite of this inconvenience, and the logs and hummocks
over which we were continually stumbling and plunging for
ward, we made tolerable headway for the first hour, skirting
deep bays and indentures in the coast, and rounding point
after point that jutted out into the water. There was no
beach upon which to travel, but the swamp and bog reached
away out into the waters of the lake.
Soon the difficult traveling and repeated falls began to tell
upon us, and by the time we had accomplished half the dis
tance we were so wearied that it was difficult to raise one
.foot after the other. The last vestige of daylight had entire
ly vanished, and night, clothed in her blackest robes, had en
veloped all nature in her sable gown. To see our way was
impossible. We could not distinguish one another within
arm's reach, and only kept together by constantly calling and
shouting. To add to the gloom, the rain began to fall still
faster. A troop of blind men cast loose in a difficult, unknown
country could hardly have been more helplessly situated.
F

83 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
At length, completely overcome with exhaustion, we found
it necessary to keep together, and to assist one another in ris
ing to his feet after falling, none of us having strength to get
up without assistance. The thick grass now became so mat
ted, and the bottom so uneven as to bar our farther progress
altogether. At this stage, our only plan was to try wading
in the lake, for which we headed, each .holding the other by
the hand. This was far preferable traveling to the other,
since the bottom was more even, and we were already so sat
urated that the water was not objectionable. For another
hour we managed to struggle forward, sometimes sinking to
the waist in mud and water, and only being able to keep our
course by noting the depth of the lake. Point after point
was passed, each time with the expectation of catching a
glimpse of the station lights ahead, but as often were our
anxious expectations succeeded by disappointment. The jour
ney seemed interminable, and our strength had dwindled down
to mere spasmodic plunges. Finally it lighted up a little, and
we were enabled to distinguish another black cape about a
mile ahead of us, just beyond which we felt sure the station
lay, since we had been traveling upward of four hours, and
must certainly have accomplished nine miles of the journey.
Cheered by this hope, we exerted ourselves for this final
stretch, and in three quarters of an hour's time reached the
point, but beyond the same unbroken sheet of darkness con
fronted us.
We were too much exhausted to go farther, so threw our
selves down in the wet grass to spend the night, having nei
ther matches nor dry wood for making a fire. Just then hap
pening to think of my revolver, which I had managed to keep
dry, in anticipation of meeting some of the bears that infest
this region, and knowing that Mahood must have long since
reached the station, I fired three shots in rapid succession as
a signal of our wherabouts, hoping that he would hear them
and send a boat to relieve us.
The last fldsh had hardly vanished, and the echoing reports
were scarcely smothered in the dingy forest across the lake,
when three distinct shots were heard in reply, and half an
hour afterward the measured dip of oars reached our ears.
At the end of another half hour the glare of torches at the

YEVETEVO.— PIPES AND TEA. 83
station came into view, and shortly afterward we were ush
ered by the station -keepers into a good, comfortable log
building, containing three or four apartments, heated by huge
peachkas. This was Yevetevo Station.
A palace could not have been more acceptable. The oven
door was thrown wide open, disclosing a large, cracking fire
inside, lighting up the rude walls of^the apartment with cheer
ful flashes. Our wet clothing was shortly removed, and then
suspended about the room to dry, while fresh, warm garments
were extracted from our satchels to replace them, by which
time the hospitable keeper had brushed the cockroaches from
a rude table, and spread an array of brimming tea-Cups, ar
ranged systematically around a ten -pound loaf of brown
bread, near which was an old-fashioned, gayly-figured china
plate, containing about equal amounts of butter and be
smeared cockroaches.
" Did we eat ?" It would have done any one good to have
seen us. Tea, bread, butter, and I don't know but the cock
roaches too, were soon "things that were," and,had it not been
for our consideration for the keeper, he would oertainly have
found himself bankrupt in the provision line before morning.
Those china cups were drained and filled, and drained and
filled — well, I will not say how many times, for fear of being
discredited ; but I know that when the repast was finished, I
sat for some moments wrapped in perfect admiration and as
tonishment at my own capacity. Then came on pipes and
tobacco. Would that some of those unappreciative, libelous
individuals, who are continually decrying the use of tobacco,
had been with us at this time. One whiff of the fragrant
"weary man's comforter" would have sufficed to convince
them ofthe error of their former notions, and I dare say that
forever thereafter their tongues would have been silent on
the subject of smoking.
The night was passed very comfortably on beds of dry hay
spread on the floor, as we were in condition to enjoy the poor
est accommodations. By daybreak all were astir, making
preparations for the farther journey.
From this point to the next lake station — Vladimirsk — we
were to take another and better boat and a new boatman, a
very acceptable change, since the last evening's -experience

84 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
had somewhat prejudiced us against foot journeys in this lo
cality. A nice dish of fried trout and several cups of" brick"
tea put us in perfect traveling trim, and by 6 A.M. we were
once more on the way. We left the old boatman behind,
grumbling, however.
. In spite of the little service he and his miserable craft had
rendered us, his demands, for payment were exorbitant, but
he had to content himself with the ten months' pay we hand
ed him upon leaving.
" Brick tea," as it is called, constitutes almost the only bev
erage of these people, who are unable to afford better, and,
though considered the most inferior quality, we found it very
palatable. It consists of the small stems and coarser leaves
of the tea-plant, which are first pulverized and then mixed
with bullock's blood to the consistency of a thick paste, and
afterward baked or dried in hard, brick-shaped cakes, from
which it derives its name. It becomes very hard, and has to
be shaved off in powder as required for use. In our hurry,
we had neglected to bring tea with us from the brig.
The day was clear, mild, and surpassingly beautiful. Not
a ripple disturbed the glassy surface of the lake, and the ¦
boundless forest of larch that hemmed in our vision stood as
motionless as a forest on canvas. Nothing but our little
craft, and an occasional hawk that plunged into the water
after its prey, gave an appearance of life to the scene, until
we had advanced a few miles and approached the northern
bank of the lake, where several white storks and swans were
seen, and shortly afterward, upon reaching a point where low
mud banks succeeded the swampy shore, we started up hun
dreds of geese.
It was a sight to make the eye of a sportsman sparkle with
enthusiasm, to say nothing of the numbers of glittering fish
that; from time to time, shot from the placid surface of the
lake, wriggling joyously for an instant in the warm sunlight,
and then falling back with a splash, scattering miniature rain
bows for feet around. It hardly seemed credible that this
day and the previous one could have been the offspring of
the same climate and country. >
At 10 o'clock we arrived at the third station, Vladimirsk.
This, like the others, contained but one house, but this house

VO YA GE ON THE LAKE. 85
was much larger and more comfortable than either of the
previous ones, containing accommodation for about fifty sol
diers, who were stationed here at the time of our visit. None
of them were about the place, however, and the ferryman was
also absent with his boat, leaving us no means of prosecuting
our journey farther, since our last boatman could not be pre
vailed upon to go beyond his allotted distance.
The only other water-craft of any kind at the post was a
large barge, drawn up high and dry on shore, and capable of
carrying about thirty men. There was no wind for sailing,
consequently we could make no use of this boat. About a
half mile down the shore #of the lake we could hear the axes
of the soldiers, who, our boatman told us, were getting out
logs to raft to Marinsk. With the view of ascertaining when
the boatman would return, Mahood and the captain, with the
interpreter, started to find them, and did not return until two
hours afterward. The ferryman had gone to Marinsk, and
might not return for two days, but the officer in command
kindly offered us the use of the barge, and furnished nine
men to row her, and by 1 o'clock we were once more under
way, though making slow progress with the clumsy craft.
At the stern of the boat was a large square platform, reach
ing out over the sides for the convenience of the helmsman
in handling the awkward rudder, though in rowing no such
space was required. We were hardly under way before
Mahood and the captain lay on this, wrapped in their blank
ets, and lost in deep sleep. I found it sufficiently comforta
ble to recline back and enjoy the varying scene through light
curls of smoke from a good cigar — now watching the mis
chievous pranks of some of the soldiers, and now musing
upon the transformations this scene of wildness would in all
probability undergo in future years. I tried to conceive of
this forest being cut away, towns on this and that point of
land, and every variety of craft plowing these waters— the
shrill whistles of steamers or locomotives echoed back from
fields of waving corn, where now a frowning wilderness holds
sway ; but invariably, just as the finishing touches were be
ing given to the imaginary scene, some of the soldiers would
" catch a crab" rowing, or something else transpire to oblit
erate it and divert my thoughts.

86 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
The soldiers were a jovial set, and appeared well satisfied
with the lives allotted them by destiny. I could not but ob
serve and admire a strong brotherly feeling that existed
among them ; not the slightest trace of selfishness could be
detected in any of their actions, though there were abundant
opportunities of showing it.
The pipe, when lighted, passed to all, and even two small
turnips (grown in the neighborhood) were equally divided
among the whole party. Upon parting at the station they
were as affectionate as so many school misses would have
been ; had I not known better, I would have thought they
were about to undergo a lifetime separation instead of one
for two or three days.
- During this portion of our journey on the lake,^which is
about twenty-five miles in length, we passed a small rocky
island called Boshniak, which is held sacred by the Gilaks.
To this place the " shamans" or " medicine-men" of the tribe
periodically resort for the purpose of carrying on their pagan
rites, which in many respects resemble the ceremonies of our
American Indians.
About 5 o'clock we rounded a long point making out into
the lake, and immediately afterward the town of Marinsk
came into view, situated upon a low bluff upon the right
shore. This town was established by Captain Nevilskoi, in
the year 1851, as a trading-post for the Russian American
Company, and afterward became of considerable importance
as a military post on account of its proximity to De Castries
Bay. At first it was subject to invasions from the Chinese,
and as a defense a number of earth-works were erected, but
these are now no longer used, though a battalion of infantry
occupies the town.
The houses are all one-story log buildings, and are scattered
for about a mile along the shore, presenting a very unimpos-
ing appearance. The most prominent feature of the town is
a small, neatly-designed and gayly-painted church, after the
Oriental style of architecture, with domes and minarets : this
building looked very pretty from the water, and there were
also one or two very comfortable-looking residences, with
handsomely-arranged gardens and graveled walks, that would
have done credit to almost any place.

MARINSK.— HOSPITABLE RECEPTION. 87
All varieties of small boats, from the life-boat to the Gilak
" lotka" (canoe) were drawn up on the beach, in the midst of
which lay a dirty, dingy-looking craft of much larger size,
from which emerged a thin cloud of steam. This we rightly
inferred to be one of the Amoor steamers ; for, though unbe
known to us at the time, we were now upon one of the more
unfrequented channels of the mighty Amoor.
Upon landing, we were guided to the residence of the com
mandant, his head-quarters being a very inferior log house,
but, I am sorry to say, did not experience any undue amount
of cdrdiality in the reception he gave us. For this we were
unable to account ; and it was in such glaring contrast with
the open-handed hospitality extended toward us every where
* else we went, that it appeared all the more striking.
Shortly afterward we were introduced to Mr. Rosenheim,
a resident merchant of the place, who insisted upon our abid
ing at his residence during our stay, at the same time volun
teering all the assistance in his power to enable us to reach
Nikolayefsk, since weeks might elapse before the arrival of
any of the steamers destined for that place.
Two hundred miles of river navigation yet intervened be
tween us and our destination. This we would have to make
in an open boat ; but then arose the difficulty of procuring a
boat and rowers for so long a trip.
Our first thought was of the Gilaks ; but, it being the fish
ing season, during which they lay in their winter supplies,
we were informed that no price would induce them to ac
company us.
Mr. Rosenheim had a large barge, which he willingly placed
at our disposal, and, there being no other resource, we pre
sented our letters and applied to the commandant for five
soldiers as rowers,which were reluctantly furnished us, so that
we were enabled to continue our journey the following day.
Such a thing as an inn is unknown in these towns, neither
is there ever to be found much spare room, consequently the
traveler generally has to put up with poor accommodations.
Not unfrequently the host sacrifices his own comfort entirely
to accommodate unexpected guests, as did Mr. Rosenheim ;
or, rather, he wished to turn his whole family out of bed to
accommodate us, but to this we would not listen, preferring

88 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
rather to sleep on the floor of his library, where the night was
passed most comfortably.
As we were making preparations for our departure the fol
lowing morning, nearly all the inhabitants of Marinsk were
assembled at the beach to see us off.
The men were out in full force, lazily lounging about and
smoking, leaving the women to attend to the laborious duties
not only of the house, but also to many of those duties which
properly belong to the men, such as chopping wood and car
rying heavy buckets of water from the" river to their homes,
the river supplying the place with the only water the inhab
itants use.
Large arms and waists showed that the latter had for a
long time performed these heavy tasks to the relief of their
indolent lords, and it was painful to look at them ; but when,
a little later, we saw little girls with rounded shoulders, and
pale, haggard, and care-worn countenances performing similar
tasks, almost breaking their frail backs under heavy burdens,
before the very eyes of the masculine brutes seated about, it
appeared outrageous and criminal. Long intercourse with
the heathen Gilaks had imbued the whites with some of their
brutal customs.
Mr. Rosenheim's boat was well fitted for our purpose ; in
fact, we could hardly have been better suited, as we were to
be favored with a good current during the voyage, though
for awkwardness of construction and unwieldiness the craft
could hardly have been surpassed. Her chief excellence lay
in her size, being about twenty-five feet long and six wide,
and affording not only abundant room for sitting and storing
our baggage, but also for sleeping.
The afterpart had been partitioned off crosswise for con
veying goods. One of these spaces we filled with fresh hay
upon which to sleep, as we anticipated drifting during nights ;
and having provided one or two seats for the rowers, which
were wanting, and procured a small mast for a sail improvised
from two rubber blankets, we pushed from shore, amid a part
ing cheer from our new friends. A few lusty pulls with the
clumsy oars carried us to the middle of the stream, when,
striking the current and catching a breeze, the rubbers filled,
and soon the last vestige of Marinsk was lost to view.

THE AMOOR.— GILAK VILLAGES AND BOATS. 89
The Amoor was first discovered by the Russians in 1843.
Among the Chinese we find records of the people inhabiting
this section which date as far back as 1100 B.C. Probably
as early as that date, or not much later, they also had a
knowledge of the river. Having a length of more than 2400
miles, 1500 of which is navigable for steamers, and, together
with its tributaries, draining 766,000 square miles of coun
try, the Amoor deservedly ranks as one of the greatest rivers
of Asia. It affords nearly all varieties of climate and soil.
This stream is said to be the only one upon earth upon
whose banks animals indigenous to the arctic and torrid
zones meet, for, strange as the fact may seem, here the rein
deer becomes a prey to the Bengal tiger, and the wild boar
and badger range in the same latitudes with the Polar hare
and glutton.
The river at this point is nearly a mile in width, and flows
through extensive plains of meadow-land burdened with a
rank growth of tall, grass, beyond which, on either hand, in
the distance, faint blue hills limit the vision. Patches of
woodland dot the plains, and, in many places, extend to the
river-bank, where, beneath the thick clusters of foliage, the
tasty though filthy Gilaks erect their picturesque habitations
near the sandy beach. One of these we came upon shortly
after leaving Marinsk. In front of each house, upon the beach,
were drawn up their odd-shaped canoes, with elevated, fanci
fully-carved prows, and all along the shores we could see the
bare-legged natives toiling at their long seines, and strewing
the banks with hundreds of fine salmon, that glittered in the
sunlight like heaps of silver. These fish are afterward split,
and suspended on light poles under bark or straw-covered
shelters to dry, where they remain until required for use,
they being here, as in Kamtchatka, intended for the suste
nance of both men and dogs during the long winter months.
Fish and berries, with the bark and roots of various trees,
constitute almost the only food of the inhabitants, and,
though many of the more hardy vegetables could be had at
the expense of a little toil, they content themselves with the
food that Nature showers upon them.
The river at certain seasons of the year is literally alive
with salmon, and so little effort is required to capture them

90

REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

that they are considered almost valueless. Fish that would
adorn banquets in many places are here thrown to the dogs
by hundreds.

GILAK LOTKA AND VILLAGE.

Now and then we encountered " lotkas," or canoes, glid
ing from shore to shore^ almost invariably propelled by the
women, who handled the short carved paddles with a skill
and grace really to be admired. They use the paddles much
as we do oars, but make the strokes alternately, allowing one
to trail along the side of the craft while the stroke is being
made with the other. The men display equally as great skill
in the management ofthe boat, though their duty is compar
atively light, being simply to sit in the stern ofthe craft and
guide it with a light paddle, in the mean while smoking their
long -stemmed pipes with small brass bowls and enormous
amber mouth-pieces.
Once fairly under way, sweeping rapidly forward toward
the sea with the vast volume of waters, we resigned our craft
to the will of the elements, and settled back upon our hay

SAILING D OWN THE AMO OR. 91
mattress to a full and quiet enjoyment of the ever-varying
panorama of the shores. The day was unsurpassable, and
our craft, clumsy though she was, aided by a four-knot cur-
"rent and a strong, though agreeably-tempered breeze, glided
so swiftly forward that we barely had time to examine the
features disclosed by the flight of one bend before Others
were ushered upon our view, each, if possible, surpassing the
last in beauty. Islands, rocks, villages, forests, and plains all
swept by in panoramic rotation, radiant in the warm sun
light, and the majestic stream gleamed in the reflected rays
like a mass of liquid silver, upon the bosom of which our boat
shot forward, impelled by the eagerness ofthe waters, which,
though nurtured in a hundred different climes, here unite their
strength for the accomplishment of their one sole purpose —
to rejoin the mother element.
These scenes we enjoyed with as little expense of comfort
as would have been required to witness the same on canvas
in one of our best-arranged home opera-houses.

93 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

CHAPTER V.
Kada. — Irkoutsk. — Post-station. — Horses, Cows, etc. — Freshets. — Old
Pole's Misfortune. —Improvidence. — Neatness. —American Appetites. — A
Passenger. — Primitive Plow, Anchors, etc.— Departure. — Perfection of
Traveling. — Summer Eve on the Amoor. — Our Soldier Boatmen. — Music.
— Reticent Soldier. — Mystery solved. — Storm. — Lightning and Gale. —
Darkness. — Search for Land. — Unpleasant Prospects. — Shelter. — Fishing
Camp. — Unwelcome Sight. — Spirits at Zero. — The Hut. — Russian Hospi
tality again. — A commendable Trait. — A Night's Experience. — The Fat
Captain. — Poor Mahood. — Indignation. — Off again. — Scenery. — Gilak
Hats. — Mikhaelofski. — Highlands. — Gilaks Fishing. — Tartar Monuments,
etc.— Gilak Settlement. — Camp-fire. — Gilak Endurance. — Clothing. — Su
perstitions. — Religion. — Shamans. — Funeral Rites. — Barbarity. — Murder
and Punishment. — Weapons. — Habitations — Good Natures. — Curiosity. —
Invoking the Gods. — Drifting.- — Drowsy Crew. — On Shore. — Gilak Tab
leaux. — Storks. — Grampuses. — Steamer. — Shipping. — Nikolayefsk. —
Seines and Traps.
Owing to repairs necessary to the boat, our departure from
Marinsk had been delayed until the hour of 10 A.M., since
which time the beautiful and ever-varying landscape, together
with the consciousness of our position and whereabouts, had
so occupied our thoughts and attention as to make us obliv
ious to the passing hours.
At 1 o'clock we sailed by the small Russian settlement
of Kada, twenty-five versts below Marinsk, where we were
strongly tempted to land and try to appease our appetites ;
but the glowing description given us by our latest friends of
the advantages possessed by Irkoutsk (farther down) as a
place for supplying the wants ofthe hungry traveler, induced
us to martyrize ourselves for a while longer in anticipation of
reaching that point.
We would gladly have avoided this disagreeable episode of
the morning's journey — hunger — and lent our entire thoughts
to outside matters, but found the outer and inner man too
closely allied to admit of an enjoyment ofthe one unalloyed
by the cravings of the other ; consequently, our approach to
Irkoutsk after a six hours' sail was hailed with joy.
From the river we could see no trace ofthe settlement, and

IRKOUTSK POST-STATION. 93
should undoubtedly have passed it had we attempted the jour
ney alone, as we at one time thought of doing. Under the
guidance of one of our soldiers, who happened to be familiar
with this portion of the river, we left the main stream alto
gether, and, entering a narrow channel-way, for half an hour
wound through a vast meadow of tall grass, making what ap
peared to be a complete circle, when we suddenly came into
view of a comfortable farm-like establishment, surrounded
with barns and hay-stacks. Numbers of horses, cows, and
chickens welcomed our arrival, each in his own peculiar way,
while visions of fresh milk and eggs whetted our long-nursed
appetites. Our men were but a short time in starting a fire on the
beach and beginning the preparations for their meal, during
which time we found our way to the station building. This
we found to be kept by an old Pole, employed by government
for the purpose.
Irkoutsk, so called after the capital of Eastern Siberia, com
prises but little more than the house and barns of the keeper,
being intended merely as a relay station for changing horses
during winter journeys up and down the frozen river. The
station is supported at government expense, though the pro
prietor owns all the horses, for the use of which he receives
annually two hundred roubles.
The house was a well-built structure of logs, comfortable
and roomy, but that which most attracted our attention was
a display of taste and cleanliness that we had hitherto found
disagreeably deficient among the humbler classes. Here
every thing was in its place, and even the rude floor was
bleached, from the careful and frequent scrubbings it re
ceived. The surrounding country is eminently fitted for the
support of such a station on account of the unlimited yield
of splendid hay, the plain's produce. Thousands of horses
and cattle could be reared at very small expense. Notwith
standing these advantages, the place has its drawbacks in the
overflowings of the Amoor, which occur from time to time,
often doing much damage by sweeping off the stacks of hay
cut for winter use. Upon congratulating our old host upon
the air of prosperity and happiness his place displayed, he
shook his head mournfully, and entered into a long account

94 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
of one of these freshets which had taken place but two years
before, and well-nigh ruined him.
At that time the river rose to an almost unprecedented
height. The neighboring country was a vast lake, over which
the accumulated waters swept with such force as to carry
every thing before them. Much of the old man's stock was
swept away, and the remainder only saved by driving it to
the hills. This loss was very heavy for him, but immediately
afterward the long winter came on, and his hay having been
carried off, nearly all the remainder of his horses and cattle
died from starvation, leaving him insufficient to supply the
demands of the post, and without means to procure others.
By industry and economy, however, he told us he had man
aged to struggle onward, and at the time of our visit was
just beginning to recover his former condition of prosperity
and independence.
Notwithstanding a recurrence of the freshet may be annu
ally expected, a surprising want of foresight in the old man
prevented him from placing his stacks beyond high-water
reach. Such improvidence we afterward found exhibited
throughout the country, but in this case it appeared more
glaring, since the recent disaster was so fresh in the station-
keeper's mind that he could not speak of it without weeping.
Fortunately, as it proved, we had an excellent antidote for
tears at hand, a good quaff of which soon restored him to
good humor.
We barely had time to make known our wishes after enter
ing the house before the housewife, a large, healthy woman
with teeth like pearls, and her whole countenance radiant
with smiles, began to bustle about in the preparation of our
meal. This, when completed, fully realized our anticipations.
The gusto with which we assailed the fresh milk, eggs, baked
salmon, etc., produced an ill-concealed expression of astonish
ment on the countenances of all present ; and there were quite
a good many of them, for the whole population of the place
had assembled to see the Americans.
I dare say at that place, if no other, American appetites
have become proverbial, though the inhabitants themselves
are by no means small eaters.
From this place we intended traveling all night, drifting

MILITARY BOATMEN. 95
with the current, hoping to reach the small Russian settle
ment of Mikhaelofski by morning. For this town we were
soon headed, having a small son of our host on board as a
passenger for the night.
While at Irkoutsk we were all much interested in a curious
specimen of a plow, such as is generally used by the inhabit
ants on this part of the river. The whole structure is of
wood (there not being a particle of metal in its construction),
and is formed of the natural bends and limbs of trees lashed
together with thongs of leather.
Boat anchors are niade in the same manner, small sharp
ened limbs answering the purpose of flukes. To give these
weight, they are lashed around heavy stones. This last, how
ever, is an invention of the Gilaks.
Just after sunset we again struck up the river, and, hoist
ing our rubber sails, sped along, with the assistance of the
current, at a seven-knot rate.
This portion of our journey was perfectly delightful. The
evening was warm and beautiful as we entered the river, the
western heavens still retaining a faint glimmer of the rose
and orange hues of the setting sun, wdiile overhead a few
stray stars were beginning to sparkle in their azure setting.
Darkness was fast creeping on, and already upon the river
banks objects had begun to lose their individuality, and were
by degrees blending together, forming long, dark, indistinct
lines, denoting the river limits. A brisk but warm summer
breeze filled the sail and helped us on our way, making it
unnecessary to row. All hands gave themselves up to en
joyment and comfort, each in his own way, and the progress
of our craft was trusted to the wind and, currents.
Our blankets had been spread over a thick layer of hay,
making a couch comfortable under any circumstances. Upon
these we reclined, enjoying our after-dinner smoke and listen
ing to the melodious Russian airs of our soldier -boatmen,
whose sweet voices sounded doubly musical in the night air.
From time to time, as we were sweeping onward, their songs
would be answered from some obscure habitation on the
shore, the faint notes reaching us blended together in a con
tinuous strain of harmony, and mingled with echoes whis
pered back from some distant cliff, while at others they

96 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
would awaken an unearthly chorus from the troops of wild
dogs at some Gilak settlement near by.
These people are all great lovers of music. They might,
in fact, be called a musical nation, though their taste and
ability for it is not at all surprising, since both boys and
girls almost from infancy are taught to sing. Nearly all
their games and amusements are combined with song, and
even in/ dancing they rely much upon the voice for preserv
ing time.
Upon this occasion, however, one of our soldiers seemed to
be in no mood for singing, preferring rather to squeeze as
far forward as possible into the bow of the boat with our
little passenger, and there indulge in a lengthy whispered
conversation. He seemed perfectly oblivious to every thing
and every body but his companion. Upon our calling to him
to sing, he stammered out some excuse in Russian which we
could not understand, and, after casting a sheepish kind of
glance around at his companions, continued his conversation.
His apparent reticence somewhat astonished us, but just then
our helmsman leaned forward and whispered, "The boy has a
pretty sister." This explained all, and, not knowing but that
one or more of us might some day desire the intercession of
a favorite brother, we left him undisturbed in his novel love-
making. During the first hour's sail from Irkoutsk we enjoyed the
perfection of traveling, but then a complete, sudden change
took place. Heavy black clouds rolled up from the west,
obscuring the heavens, and a darkness settled over the coun
try that was almost tangible. Lurid flashes of lightning
darted from the threatening masses, and we had barely time
to roll up our blankets and cover ourselves and baggage with
rubber ponchos before the storm broke upon us in all its fury,
nearly deluging the boat with a torrent of rain. In an incred
ibly short space of time the wind had increased to a gale,
splashing the waves over the clumsy sides of our boat, and
strewing the black surface of the river with white caps, that
gleamed in the pale flashes like so many phantoms. At the
outset we had been obliged to lower the sail to avoid cap
sizing. The lightning continued but a few minutes, however, and,

NIGHT-STORM.— CLOSE QUARTERS. 97
after the last flash, we found ourselves hemmed in as if by an
ebony wall. We could not even distinguish one another in
the darkness, much less see to guide the boat, which was
abandoned to her own course. In this manner we drifted
for nearly two hours, hoping that the storm would pass over,
that we might continue our journey during the night.
Such good fortune was not reserved for us, and at length
we were constrained to take to the oars and endeavor to find
shore, with whatever accommodations it might afford, since
our boat was momentarily in danger of being swamped. We
hardly dared hope for other shelter than some rock or tree,
as our boatman informed us there were no habitations within
miles of our supposed whereabouts.
At length a grating sound and noise made by one of the
men falling backward off his seat proclaimed the presence
of land, but what was still more welcome was the barking
of a dog a few hundred yards distant, a sure indication of
some habitation, whether Gilak or Russian we were not par
ticular. Our shouts were soon answered by the glare of a
torch which suddenly broke upon the darkness, serving as a
guide to direct our steps to a bark habitation, a small por
tion of which, lighted up by the blaze, we could indistinctly
see through the falling rain-drops. This proved to be the
camp of a party of Russian soldiers temporarily stationed
here for the purpose of laying in a winter supply of salmon.
Following the guidance of the torchman, we dodged into
a low doorway, when a sight met our gaze which caused our
spirits once more to sink to zero. The small inclosure, 8x12
feet, was literally jammed. A row of rude, narrow bunks,
ranged on either side, completely filled the space, with the
exception of a cramped passage-way leading through the
centre, and each bunk, though large enough to accommodate
but one person comfortably, was occupied by two soldiers.
The hut itself was built entirely of bark tacked to a light
frame of poles, but afforded only partial shelter from the
wind and rains without, owing to carelessness of construc
tion and natural imperfections in the bark.
Scarcely had we made ourselves known when several of
the soldiers, verifying the previous statements of Russian
hospitality, tendered us their beds. But to accept their gen-
G

98 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
erous offer and turn them out of doors on such a night would
have been simply outrageous, and we directed our steps out
into the storm once more to find other shelter, but failed.
When, at length, some ofthe soldiers assured us that if we
would accept their berths, they could find shelter for them
selves and our men at a neighboring encampment, we gladly
availed ourselves of their offer, deciding, however, to occupy
but one berth, in order not to discommode them too much.
Our little passenger had no difficulty whatever in securing
nestling room between two of the soldiers, probably also as-
, pirants for the honor of becoming a brother-in-law.
Disregard of one's own comfort to contribute to that of
others is one of the most commendable of human traits, in
my opinion, particularly so in cases where one's self is the
recipient and not the loser. I at one time thought, however,
that it was better to give than receive ; but, upon the very
few occasions in which I put into practice this maxim, I
found my supposed generosity received with such indiffer-
, ence and as a matter-of-course-edness, that I desisted from it
afterward, except upon special occasions. This night in the
soldiers' hut was one of those special occasions.
Sleeping three a-bed in a narrow bunk, with scant, narrow
cover, of course the middle place is most desirable, particu
larly when the outside sleepers are exposed to a cold wind
and rain. The bunk stood against the miserable bark parti
tion or wall of the hut, through which the wind howled all
night, and the heavy rain-drops, dashing against the outside,
splashed through the knot-holes and cracks in a perfect spray.
Though aware of this fact, I volunteered to sleep next the
wall, and took pains to lie on my side and breathe as little as
possible, so as not to occupy too much space.
The captain, a great, fat, Dutch sea-captain, and weighing
about one hundred and ninety pounds, occupied the middle,
while Mahood, by bracing one foot against the bunk opposite,
managed to keep on the front of the bed.
The torch was barely extinguished when a deep snore, like
a peal of distant thunder, issued from the captain's throat, and
he rolled heavily upon his back, nearly forcing me through
the bark wall by the unexpected change of position. To re
monstrate was useless ; the Furies could not have awakened

MIKHAELOFSKI. 99
him. For many long, sleepless hours I lay, assailed on one
side by the cold wind and splashing rain-drops, and on the
other sustaining the huge corpus of my neighbor. By de
grees the covering vanished, in spite of importunities to my
bed-fellows for a little mercy. When at length day dawned,
it was a joyous moment, notwithstanding my clothing was
perfectly saturated and myself speechless from hoarseness.
Mahood was but little better off, having been obliged to lie
awake all night to retain his position in bed. Poor fellow !
I could have pitied him, but there was no room in either of
our feelings for any other emotion than that of indignation
when we discovered the cause of our discomforts. There lay
the captain flat upon his back, completely enveloped from
head to foot in every bit of the covering, as compactly as an
Egyptian mummy. To aggravate us all the more, his first
utterance upon opening his eyes was, "Well! these accom
modations are not so bad, after all ; I don't know when I
slept better." We didn't deign to answer him.
The morning was clear, with a good breeze. Our soldiers
constructed a larger and better sail from an old army blanket
and several bags, and by seven o'clock we had gone several
versts. The scenery was much the same as that of the day before
— the banks dotted with small Russian and Gilak settlements.
I could not help admiring the taste displayed by many of
these Gilaks whom we passed in the manufacture of their
hats. They are made of birch-bark, shaped like a low, broad
cone, the outside covered with beautiful scroll-work figures
cut from stained bark. \
At 12 o'clock we arrived at Mikhaelofski, having made the
distance of sixty-five versts in six hours. The country ad
joining this place is more cultivated than any we had seen
upon the river. We noticed several fields of grain on the
hill-sides cut and stacked, ready to be hauled off.
Mikhaelofski contains about three hundred inhabitants, and
is composed of quite large, comfortable houses standing in a
row facing the river, opposite which, sloping down to the
water's edge, were garden patches, growing potatoes, turnips,
cabbage, and other of the more hardy vegetables. Here we
stopped for dinner at one of the residences, and were very

100

REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

MIKHAELOFSKI.

agreeably entertained during our short stay by the lady of
the house and her daughter, recently graduated at a young
ladies' seminary at Nikolayefsk.
Shortly after leaving Mikhaelofski we were overtaken by
another storm, making it necessary to lower the sail, but it
was of short duration. Light showers continued to fall during
the afternoon, however. At this point the ranges of moun
tains — before seen in the distance — on both banks approach
the river, rising abruptly from the water's edge, and resem
bling very much the Highlands of the Hudson. We could
easily have imagined ourselves sailing down that river had
it not been for a picturesque Gilak village nestled under the
cliff, with its group of natives in fancy lotkas and birch hats,
hauling a seine. Just as we were passing they captured sev
eral hundred splashing victims from the river. After passing
the highlands it cleared up and the wind died out, when we
put our men at the oars. At sunset we passed an uninviting
little settlement upon the right bank, distant about one hun
dred and forty-three versts from Nikolayefsk, but pushed on,
as we were desirous of reaching that place the next day —
Saturday — if possible.

A GILAK SETTLEMENT. 101
At dark threatening clouds hung overhead, and we saw
flashes of lightning on the horizon, which rather portended a
repetition of our experience of the night before, but fortu
nately the storm passed in another direction. It was, how
ever, very dark sailing under the high banks and bluffs that
border the' river at this point. On one of these bluffs are the
remains of an ancient temple, and three Tartar monuments
covered with inscriptions. We would have liked very much
to lay over and visit them, but had not the time to spare.
Mr. Collins, in his " Voyage down the Amoor," gives a minute
description of these relics.
As we were passing near the cliff on which our men told
us the monujnents stand, we were greeted from the darkness
by an almost unearthly chorus of howling, barking, and yelp
ing, as though the entrance to the realms of Pluto was at
hand, and all the Furies loose. The night was so still and
dark that we could easily have imagined the sounds coming
from ten thousand invisible throats in the air immediately
about us, but, not possessing very superstitious tempera
ments, we readily concluded that it must be a Gilak settle
ment. Since it was our intention to row and drift all night, and
it being a little cool, we decided to head for shore, to prepare
tea as soon as we should get beyond this settlement. Direct
ing our craft for the dark cliff, we soon brought up on land,
and our men, after feeling around in the darkness for some
minutes, gathered up a few dry, sticks and started a fire.
This was a signal for a new chorus, as we had landed just in
front of another village, and in a few moments our party was
surrounded by a troop of half-naked men, women, and chil
dren, while scores of hungry-looking dogs darted through
the firelight on all sides.
The night was cold enough to require an overcoat, but
these natives were without hats, and had no covering for
their feet and legs. Their bodies were protected simply by
a loose skin gown, open in front, and, to all appearances, no
protection whatever.
The Gilaks are a very superstitious, pagan people, worship
ing idols of wood and stone as of old, though many of them
have been baptized into the Greek Church, and wear small

102 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
metal crosses suspended about their necks. They have their
priests, or "shamans," who conduct all their ceremonies and
are the advisers of the communities. These shamans are
supposed by them to be gifted with supernatural powers,
and are held in great awe and reverence.
Their funeral rites are sometimes quite impressive. The
remains are first burned, and afterward a small wooden house
or tomb is erected over the ashes. At death the soul is sup
posed to take up its abode in the favorite dog ofthe deceased,
where it remains until released from its confinement by the
death of the animal. To facilitate its escape, it has become
customary to sacrifice the dog at the tomb of its master, the
creature being first fattened for the occasion. • »
Among other superstitious notions, the Gilaks will not al
low a particle of fire to be taken from their habitations, not
even in a pipe. A violation of this custom they firmly be
lieve will be the occasion of some great disaster — either a
complete failure in fishing or in the chase, or the death or
serious accident to some near relative or dear friend.
But not all their superstitions are as harmless and inoffen
sive as this. Some are perfectly barbarous. For instance, dur
ing parturition, whether in winter or summer, the unfortunate
mother is ejected from her habitation — thrust out of doors,
exposed to the inclemency of the weather, there to provide
for herself as best she may, solitary and ignored, until a cer
tain period shall have elapsed. During this time every pos
sible assistance is denied her, it being considered almost crim
inal to lend her the slightest attention, and, as a natural con
sequence, death often ensues. Their dogs are much more ten
derly cared for, they, at least, being allowed shelter.
Murder is not an uncommon occurrence among these peo
ple, being often committed upon the slightest provocation.
They are governed by no established laws except those dic
tated by superstition, which differ in different localities. A
murderer is usually punished by the friends of the deceased,
who are bound in some manner to avenge his death, general
ly by counter-murder. An eye for an eye and a tooth for a
tooth is their notion of justice.
Formerly bows and spears, were their only weapons, but
of late these, the bow especially, have been discarded for

GLZAK CUSTOMS. 103
small-bored flint-lock guns, which they procure in trade from
the Russians. Their habitations differ somewhat in their
construction. Many of them are erected on posts several
feet above the ground, and are surrounded by a platform,
upon which they stow away their sleds, nets, weapons, etc.
These platforms are reached by rude steps cut in a log.
Many of their houses are heated by a fire in the centre of
the room, the bunks for sleeping ranged around the sides, and
a square hole in the roof for the smoke to escape through,
while others have the fire in a kind of oven in one corner,
the smoke and heat being conducted entirely around the
room, under the bunks, before escaping from the chimney.
This is in order to heat their beds during the winter. Sus
pended to the rafters overhead they frequently have hun
dreds of salmon curing in the dense smoke. This is called
"ukale" by the Russians, and, when carefully prepared —
" and you know the woman as made 'em," as Sam Weller
said of veal pies — are quite palatable.
While preparing tea our soldiers were constantly joking
and poking fun at the group around us, who laughed and
seemed to enjoy the tricks as much as we did.
On learning that we were Americans, they became exceed
ingly curious, and watched our motions with the greatest in
terest. "She buttons on our uniforms were minutely exam
ined, as was every thing connected with our dress, though
the inspection was carried on in a quiet, inoffensive manner.
While here, our attention was attracted by a curious noise
from some settlement far up the river, sounding like the beat
ing of a bass-drum. This, upon inquiry, we learned to be a
party of Gilaks invoking the spirits to attend them and crown
their efforts in fishing with success.
We once more pushed out in the dark, and, having given
our men instructions to let the boat drift with the current,
retired to our blankets, and were soon lost in blissful repose,
oblivious to all that was transpiring. In the night we drift
ed ashore, and, upon awaking at daylight, found our mast
caught in a cluster of overhanging willows on the river bank.
Having aroused the men and put them at the oars, we once
more lay down, but in an hour's time, upon again awaking,
we found the boat drifting down stream stern-foremost, and

104 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
all the men— helmsman and rowers— sitting at their posts
sound asleep.

At 6 o'clock we went ashore near a Gilak settlement to
make tea, and were soon surrounded by a group similar to
the one of the night before. They wandered barefooted over
the jagged stones on the beach as though their feet were
soled with iron, while the cold seemed to have no effect on
them whatever. Some of them presented a very amusing
tableau as we pushed from shore. Near our fire was an old

ARRIVAL AT NIKOLAYEFSK. 105
stump of driftwood about six feet long, on which six of them
sat, with their feet drawn up under their bodies, their heads
resting on their hands, and their elbows on their knees. In
the group was an old gray-headed man, the patriarch ofthe
village ; and from him down, in both sexes, to a little boy
hardly old enough to walk, who, however, imitated the atti
tude of the others with the greatest precision. I would not
have believed it possible to roost so many humans on a log
of that size, had I not seen it done.
During the day we saw several white storks wading near
the beach, but we were unable to get within gun range of
them. Numbers of grampuses, or " bielugas" of the Rus
sians, white, and about twenty-five feet long, were constantly
rolling out of the water, spouting like whales. They ascend
these large rivers in search of salmon, upon which they sub
sist. Their young, numbers of which we also saw, are nearly
black. After passing through a variety of scenery — hay-
meadows and highlands, interspersed with settlements — at 4
o'clock P.M. we came in sight ofthe shipping anchored in the
river opposite Nikolayefsk. Here we met a small steamer
slowly making its way against the current, with two large
barges in tow, and passed another barge heavily laden with
hay, drifting down.
The left shore is a continuous meadow, on which thousands
of tons of hay were ready stacked for use ; and on the right
extended an abrupt range of hills, along the base of which
ran the De Castries telegraph line, which we had traced for
many miles. As we neared the town the edge of the river
was lined with seines and fish-traps, suggestive of the diet
awaiting us, and proclaiming either the scarcity of other food,
or the particular fondness of the inhabitants for this.

106 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

CHAPTER VI
Nikolayefsk. — Origin. — Location.— Fortifications. — Appearance. — Gilak En
campments. — Church and Chancellerie. — Drays. — Mr. Chase. —American
Assemblage. — Surprise. — Prasniks or Holidays. — His Excellency Admiral
Kazakevitch. — Suspension of Labor. — Difficulties of Building. — Church
Services. — Intoxication. — Laf kas. — Population. — Foreign Merchants. —
Guilds. — Starastas.— Houses. —Port Buildings. — Machinery. — Foundry.
— Messrs. Barr, Woods, and Elliott. — Barracks. — Club-rooms. — Mails. —
Newspaper. — Schools. — Park. — Band.— Amusing Manner of Organizing.
— Trades. — Arrival of Admiral Furruhelm. — Reception. — Parades. — Ban
quet. — Toasts. — Tossing the Governor. — Distinguished Honor. — Ball. —
Ladies Vanish. — Musketry. — Disconsolate Males. — Dearth of Information.
" — Captains Lindholm and Swartz. — OrellLake. — Solavaoff. — Tungusians.
— Rewards. — Yakov. — Discouraging Assurances.— The Gonets. — Our So
journ. — Friends. — Valuable Assistance.
- NikolayefsS, named after the Czar Nicholas, was founded
by Captain Nevilskoi in the year 1851, as a trading post for
the Russian American Company, but it was not until during
the year 1854, when the troops and munitions of war were
removed from Kamtchatka to this place, that it became of
much importance. The town is situated upon a plateau upon
the left or northern bank of the Amoor, about twenty-two
miles above the Liman or Gulf. The river at this point is a
mile and a quarter in width, having a current of about four
knots, but is shoal on the side next the town — so much so
that large vessels are unable to approach the wharves. Op
posite the town, upon an island, is erected a fort mounting
twenty-four guns and mortars, called Fort Constantine. This
commands the approaches to the place from above, while be
low it is guarded by three other fortifications. The nearest
of these, Fort Nicholas, is situated upon a point of land at the
lower end of the town, and commands the immediate harbor,
while the others are situated one of them four miles below
the town on the opposite shore, and the other at Point
" Chnyrrakh," about ten miles above the mouth of the river.
The appearance of the town, as we approached, somewhat
disappointed our expectations, notwithstanding we had made

NIKOLAYEFSK. 107
allowances for its newness. A row of one-story log buildings
sprinkled along the river bank, backed by a dingy -looking
forest of conifers of small size, disclosing in their midst a
small church surmounted with a dome, were all that present
ed themselves to view from the river, though, upon closer in
spection, the air of bustle that prevails, together with num
bers of small water-craft plowing about the wharves, and the
groups of men upon shore, somewhat revived our interest.
Shortly after passing Fort Constantine, our helmsman
steered for the lower of two log wharves jutting for some
distance out into the stream, which we reached just before
dark. The beach was literally lined with Gilak lotkas laden
with fine freshly-caught salmon, and all along at the foot of
the plateau were their encampments, of every conceivable
style, presenting very curious and picturesque groups. Some
were small, rude bark shelters, barely large enough to hold
two persons, while others were formed of canoes inverted in
such a manner as to form roofs. In addition to these were
many others, in which no kind of shelter was used whatever,
consisting merely of large camp-fires, about which the na
tives — men, women, and children — were assembled prepar
ing their evening meals.
A good road, leading to the plateau above, winds along
the side of the bluff, following which we soon found our
selves in the main street or thoroughfare of the town. This
street extends along the river bank for nearly two miles, and
is bordered with narrow board sidewalks. Directly in front
of us stood the church, rather more imposing upon nearer in
spection, situated in an open square, just back of which were
the chancellerie buildings — a one -story group of logs, sur
mounted with a signal-staff for signaling vessels lying in the
stream. Numbers of officers and gray-coated soldiers were prom
enading up and down the walks, enjoying the mild evening
air, and, notwithstanding the lateness of the hour, men with
small drays laden with hay, drawn by diminutive horses,
continually passed, the poor little beasts nearly quailing be
neath the volleys of Russian oaths showered upon them by
their remorseless drivers. Such life and activity we were
not prepared to meet so far from the world, though the long,

108 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
leisurely strides and expansive waists of the officers whom
we saw proclaimed theirs to be any thing but an arduous
life. As already stated, we had brought with us from Kamt
chatka letters to Mr. Chase, acting commercial agent of the
United States, to whose residence one of our soldiers guided
us. His is one of the ornamental buildings of the place, be
ing clapboarded, and is situated adjoining the church square.
Greatly to our surprise, upon entering the well-furnished
apartm'ents, we found ourselves in the midst of quite an as
semblage of American gentlemen, engaged in the mercantile
business in the town. These gentlemen were expecting us,
having that day received the dispatch we had forwarded
from De Castries by telegraph five days previously. The
familiar sound of our own tongue made us, for the time be
ing, forgetful of our whereabouts, and but a few moments
sufficed to put us upon terms of perfect familiarity, so great
was the relief of finding one's own kind in the world of
strangeness that had every where confronted us since leav
ing the Olga.
What with inquiries from our new friends concerning
America, mixed with information relating to those portions
of the country we were about to traverse, the evening was
soon passed, and we retired, preparatory to the commence
ment of our arrangements on the following day for our win
ter explorations.
The next day, Sunday, being a " prasnik," or holiday, and
one suitable for calling, we first of all paid our respects to
his excellency Admiral Kazakevitch, the governor of the
sea-coast provinces of Eastern Siberia, Mr. Chase kindly ac
companying us as interpreter. His excellency, a fine-look
ing old gentleman of very dignified demeanor, but, withal,
very sociable and pleasant, received us most cordially, and
expressed the greatest interest in our enterprise, offering
every possible assistance during his short stay, since he was
in daily expectation ofthe arrival of Admiral Furruhelm, the
newly -appointed governor, who was soon to succeed him.
He kindly placed at our disposal all reports or charts in the
chancellerie that might throw any light upon the country we
wished to explore, but, upon searching afterward, we could

HOLIDAYS.— MERCANTILE GUILDS. 109
find nothing that would be of the least assistance to us, the
country lying between the Amoor and Okhotsk, and adjacent
to the Okhotsk Sea, which we would first traverse, being at
that time terra incognita.
Upon prasniks all work is suspended, each and every one
giving himself up to enjoyment. Morning service is usually
held in the church, and in the afternoon the lower classes cel
ebrate the day by getting drunk on diluted alcohol, often re
maining in that delectable condition for days. These pras
niks not only include Sundays, but all the saints' days, be
sides the birth-days and death-days of every body of note,
consequently nearly two thirds ofthe year are consumed by
them. In some weeks there are no less than eight prasniks,
two sometimes falling upon the same day.
Among the foreigners we found much complaining ofthe
frequency of these holidays, and the consequent suspension
of work. By them it is considered a lifetime undertaking to
have a house erected, and even so small a matter as the build
ing or repairing of a heating-oven has been known to occupy
five weeks.
Nikolayefsk contains a population of about five thousand •
souls, chiefly military and convicts. But few ladies, compar
atively, reside in the place. A number of foreign mercantile
houses are represented, among others several from our own
country, the proprietors of which live in a style hardly to be
expected in this portion of the globe, indulging in all the lux
uries and comforts that their ships can convey, and these we
found to be not a few.
As in Russia proper, the mercantile population is divided
into grades or " guilds," ais they are called, each grade being
regulated by the amount of capital employed. The first class
are required to represent a capital of thirty thousand roubles,
and pay a certain guild- for the privilege of trading. To this
grade belong all the foreign merchants, who are entitled to
all the rights of citizenship, and are required to serve as
" starasta," or mayor, if elected to that position. The staras-
ta is usually chosen from the first guild merchants, to look
to the interests of the mercantile class. At the time of our
visit, Mr. Luhdorf, a Hamburg gentleman, occupied that po
sition. The foreigners represent the majority of the capital

110 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
of the place, and have to contribute largely to all public int
provements. " Vodki" or alcohol, together with other spirituous liquors,
cigars, tea, sugar, flour, and salt are the chief articles of trade,
especially the former, of which immense quantities are con
sumed. There are at present in town no less than seventy-
five " laf kas," or places where liquor is sold, and drunken
ness may be seen at almost any time on the streets.
The houses are generally large and comfortable, and, with
two or three exceptions, constructed of logs, the better class
of them being neatly papered, and well furnished and car
peted. After paying our respects to the governor, we direct
ed our steps to the lower end of the town, where are the port
buildings, or government machine establishments. These
are very complete, comprising all kinds of machinery for the
manufacture of metallic or wooden ware, in addition to a
foundry, saw-mills, etc. The whole is under the superintend
ence of Mr. Barr, an American gentlenian, who brought over
two steamers from America for the Russians, and in the year
1858 received a gold medal for the zeal he manifested. Messrs.
. Wood and Elliott, two other Americans, have the immediate
charge of different departments under Mr. Barr.
In addition to hospitals, barracks, etc., for the soldiers, the
town boasts a club-house for the officers — a large, comforta
ble log building, containing a ball-room, parlors, card and
reading rooms, besides a bar and billiard saloon, the latter
containing two American tables, which, however, saw their
best days a number of years ago. A table is set daily for a
large number of officers who board at the club, though, judg
ing from their complaints, the fare can be nothing extra.
A semi-monthly mail from St. Petersburg renews the sup
ply of papers and other reading matter, some of which we
noticed to be of quite recent date. A small weekly paper is
published in town.
Two flourishing schools have been established, one for
young ladies, and the other for the children of the soldiers
and sailors, both of which, I understand, are well patronized;
and enterprising parties have opened two photographic gal
leries, sometimes turning out very good pictures.
Upon the main street, extending down to the river, a few

A FETE AT NIKOLAYEFSK. Ill
acres have been set aside for a park, and, though as yet new,
it is quite a public resort, particularly Sunday afternoons,
when the military band plays selections from different op
eras and other music remarkably well considering their short
practice and the manner in which the band was organized.
To obtain the different performers who compose the band, a
large number of soldiers were drawn up in line, and then the
leader, passing along the front, examined the mouths and
sounded the chests of each. Upon finding certain ones to
suit him, they were put aside until the requisite number had
been obtained. To each of these was then allotted a partic
ular instrument, though many of them had never before seen
one, and were at a loss to know which end to apply to the
mouth. In this same manner the different trades are sup
plied, certain ones being ordered to apply themselves to cer
tain callings.
We found the park tastefully arranged, and neatly laid out
in winding gravel -walks, bordered with an abundance of
shade-trees, though the latter were yet small. At some fu
ture day this will be an ornament to the town.
Nearly two weeks elapsed after our arrival before Admiral
Furruhelm reached Nikolayefsk. During this time the whole
population was on the qui vive, such an event as the change
of governors not having taken place for ten years previously.
All were full of bustle and excitement, making arrangements
to receive the new governor, and to honor the retiring one
with a farewell banquet and ball as a testimonial of the high
regard in which he was held.
Upon the day of reception the troops were paraded and re
viewed by the governor, the officers appearing most gor
geously attired in their brilliant uniforms, ornamented with
gold and silver bullion. Crosses of St. George, Vladimir, and
Stanislaus were in the greatest profusion, together with other
badges of honor, many of them received by the wearers for
meritorious services rendered during the Crimean War. The
banquet which followed surpassed all expectations. For the
occasion the club-rooms were beautifully decorated with flags,
evergreens, and polished arms, and the tables burdened with
delicacies. Toasting followed feasting, the first being to the
health of the Czar, proposed by the old admiral, when all

112 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
arose to their feet, and, after a lusty cheer, drained their
glasses. Others followed in quick succession, among them
one to the success of our enterprise, which Mr. Chase kindly
responded to in our behalf. Ignorance of the Russian lan
guage made this portion of the entertainment a little unin
teresting to us, not being able to understand the toasts ex
cept as afterward translated. At the close a general rush
was made for the admiral, in whose honor the feast was given.
The band struck up the Russian national air, which was near
ly drowned by the cheers and shouts of the assemblage. We
were wholly ignorant of what would follow, nor was our cu
riosity gratified until the short, fat figure of the admiral sud
denly appeared, shooting into the air above the heads ofthe
assemblage, and as suddenly disappearing again in their
midst. This was repeated for some moments, until his excel
lency could, to all appearances, survive it no longer, and his
tossers were equally exhausted, and then he was borne by the
officers in procession, headed by the band, through the streets
to his residence. To be tossed in this manner is considered
a great distinction, but such, I should judge, as would not
bear frequent repetition.
Gentlemen only appeared at the banquet; but two days
later, upon the occasion of the ball, the ladies were out in
full, elegantly attired and jeweled befitting the occasion.
Their rich dresses, with the uniforms and decorations of the
officers, sparkling in the light of hundreds of candles by
which the hall was illuminated, made a very showy display.
I could not but remark, however, the almost total absence of
beauty among the fairer sex. The men, as a class, were by
far the better looking.
At midnight dancing was suspended, and all adjourned to
do justice to a bountiful supper. This was hardly over when,
as if by magic, almost every lady suddenly vanished from the
dancing-hall and parlors. It could not be possible that they
had withdrawn altogether, as the band had already struck up
for a renewal of the dance. Being unable to solve the mys
tery to my own satisfaction,! asked an explanation of a gen
tleman with whom I had been conversing. " Come with me,"
he replied, and, following his guidance, I soon found myself
in one of the large parlors, but as yet none of the ladies were

PLANS FOR EXPLORATION. 113
to be seen. "Now," he said, "as we pass that open door,
glance in." This direction was explicitly followed, and a sight
met my gaze which I confess somewhat astonished as well as
amused me. The apartment was filled with smoke, not so
much, however, as to prevent us from distinguishing through
it the missing forms ranged around the room with knees
crossed, each leisurely enjoying the luxury of a Russian papy-
rosa or cigarette. Their merry laughs and rattling conversa
tion, as they found vent through the partly opened door,
could not be more appropriately compared than to the cease
less roll of musketry as heard issuing from the dense smoke
of battle.
The male portion ofthe assemblage appeared perfectly dis
consolate as they wandered neglectedly through the silent
parlors, though, upon the reappearance of the ladies and re
newal of dancing, mirth was once more in the ascendency,
and continued so to a late hour.
Thus far during our sojourn we had made every effort to
procure some information concerning that tract of country,
already mentioned, which extends from the Amoor north
ward to the town of Okhotsk. The exploration of this re
gion was the task allotted Mahood and myself, Major Abasa
having promised to meet us at Okhotsk. Of this vast extent
of territory, to traverse which would necessitate a journey of
1200 miles and upward, nothing was known except concern
ing a small portion adjacent to the Amoor, over which a half
dozen persons had passed. Two of these gentlemen, Messrs.
Lindholm, a Swede, and Swartz, a Pole, we were fortunate
in finding in Nikolayefsk, to both of whom we were indebted
for much good advice and valuable information while prepar
ing our outfit for the journey. Mr. Swartz afterward joined
our party as interpreter.
Our first destination after leaving Nikolayefsk would he
Tugur, a whaling station at the head of Tugur Bay, dis
tant about ten days' journey with reindeer from Orell (eagle)
Lake. This lake lies near the Amoor, about sixty miles west
of Nikolayefsk, and can be reached by water. Mr. Lindholm,
whom I have mentioned, was the proprietor of Tugur Station,
but was not intending to return to that place until late in
the winter, otherwise we would have availed ourselves of his
H

114 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
company during the journey. From him we learned that it
would be necessary to secure reindeer both for riding and for
packing, on account of the swampy nature of the country
over which the route lay. These animals being very scarce,
and only in use among the few scattered families of Tungu
sians in this region, we had to avail ourselves of the kind of
fers of assistance made by Governor Furruhelm in order to
procure the requisite number. Without his valuable aid we
could have accomplished nothing. His excellency felt the
greatest interest in our expedition, he himself assuming the
charge of preparing our outfit. He informed us that a Ya
kout cattle -merchant named Solavaoff would soon arrive
with deer from the direction we wished to take, and that, if -
our departure could be postponed a while, animals could be
procured from him to carry us to Tugursk. At that point
we expected to obtain a fresh relay, also to renew our supply
of stores, having been informed by Captain Lindholm that
the post was well provisioned.
For many days we delayed taking further steps to procure
deer, constantly expecting the arrival ofthe Yakout; but at
length, fearing lest our departure should be deferred until it
would be too late to start on our journey before the opening
of the winter roads, it was deemed advisable to try to pro
cure deer elsewhere. To facilitate matters, Cossacks were
dispatched in different directions in search of the Tungu
sians, with instructions to bring to town all that could be
found. In the mean while all our preparations were com
pleted. After an absence of a few days the Cossacks returned,
bringing with them a band of wild-looking, fur-clad natives.
They were all very poor, not having more than deer suffi
cient to enable them to carry on their fall hunts for wild
deer and sable, consequently were • very reluctant to part
with their animals. These were, however, finally obtained,
through promises of swords and medals from the governor
as rewards for their services should they convey us quickly
and safely to Tugursk.
A Cossack, Yakov, had also been detailed to accompany
us as far as Oudskoi, a small Russian settlement a month's
journey distant, and situated near the Okhotsk Sea. To the

OFFICIAL COURTESIES. 115
ispravnik, or sub-governor of the Oudskoi district, we were
provided with letters of instruction, directing him to afford
us every assistance, and replace Yakov by another Cossack
upon the renewal of our journey from that point. With
such valuable and hearty co-operation, we were prepared to
commence our difficult explorations with light hearts, not
withstanding positive assurances from several of our newly-
formed acquaintances that, if we should venture far into
those wild, mountainous regions, it would cost us our lives.
Yakov and the Tungusians departed immediately to as
semble the deer and drive them to Orell Lake, at which point
we were to join them on the 22d of October. A fine little
government steamer, the Gonets, had already been offered
us as conveyance for ourselves and baggage to the lake, and,
at length, our arrangements were all completed.
Concerning our stay of thirty-five days at Nikolayefsk, I
have but one regret to express, and that the inconveniences
and restraint to which we were subjected through ignorance
of the Russian language, whereby we were prevented from
cultivating social relations and extending our acquaintances
with the many kind and disinterested friends with whom we
came in contact. From first to last, every possible courtesy
was extended us, and every wish anticipated and gratified
even before it could be expressed. No pains were spared to
make our sojourn agreeable, every species of amusement the
place afforded having been indulged in.
The hearty co-operation and invaluable assistance rendered
us in connection with our expedition, both by the ex-governor,
Admiral Kazakevitch, and his successor, Admiral Furruhelm,
as well as Captains Belsoif and Hackel, of the Engineers, and
numerous others, deserve the lasting gratitude of all who were
in any way connected with or interested in the great enter
prise. As previously stated, without their assistance we
could have accomplished little or nothing.

116 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

CHAPTER VLT.
Departure from Nikolayefsk.— Farewell. — Prophecies of our Friends.—
Scarcity of Reindeer. — Mr. Swartz. — Yakov.— Outfit and Provision.—
Steamer Gonets. — Up the Amoor. — Margah. — Pilots. — First Ice. — Palvo.
— Intricate Channels. — Cleaving through the Ice. — Consultation. — Ne
cessity of pushing ahead.— Snow. — Aground. — Lost in the Storm.— De
feat and Retreat.— Despondency. — Fishing Camp. — Weather moderating.
— Rain. — Yakout Pilots. — Fresh Start. — Ice. — Frightened and rebellious
Crew. — Open Water. — Orell Lake. — Strong Breeze. — At the Rendezvous.
— Gilak Encampment. — No Deer. — Distant Shouts heard. — Mahood's
Crnise. — Leaky and smoky Tent.— Our Neighbors. — Shelter. — Cradle. —
Industry. — Dogs. — Filthiness. — Sacred Grounds. — News of the Deer. —
Party in Search. — Rain. — Game, Fish, and Ukale. — The Gilaks. — Alone.
— First Reindeer. — Disappointment . — Their Appearance. — Deer-riding. —
A queer Sight. — Experience of the Party. — Mikhaeloff and Constantine.
— Tungusians. — Physiognomy. — Customs, Dress, etc. — Deer Feed and
Feeding-grounds. — Departure of the Yakouts. — Parting Salutations. —
Reverence. — Our Commissariat. — Preparations for the Journey.- — Deer-
packing and Saddles. — Weak Backs. — Cautiousness. — Remarkable Feat
of Strength.
At length the day fixed for- our departure, October 21st,
rolled round. It was already the season for ice to begin to
form upon the. river, and knowing that a delay of a month
would be incurred should we be prevented from reaching the
place of rendezvous on Orell Lake by the closing up of the
narrow channels leading to it, at the appointed hour the
Gonets loosed her cables, and our journey was commenced.
Before starting, however, many of our new friends assem
bled at Mr. Chase's residence, where, amid the clinking of
glasses, toasts were drunk to our undertaking, and the final
adieus and God-speeds were passed, though many ofthe par
ty accompanied us to the wharf and saluted us with a part
ing cheer.
It was not without slight reluctance, I confess, that we
commenced this journey. The thrilling portrayal ofthe hard
ships and privations endured by Kane, Hall, and other Arctic
travelers gave us a foretaste of what might be expected. But
yet I had consoled myself with the supposition that these ac-

DEPARTURE FROM NIKOLA YEFSK. 117
counts might be somewhat exaggerated. When, however,
to these were added discouraging assurances from the inhab
itants of the country of the almost inevitable fate that await
ed us in the deep, unknown mountain gorges of the Juggur
range, and the fearful " poorgas" to which we would be sub
jected, and the utter impossibility of any succor ever reach
ing us in case of disaster, we felt indeed that we had a diffi
cult task before us. 'Tis true we would encounter two or
three Russian settlements along the coast, but these were ac
cessible only by sea, the vast stretches of desert wildness
lying between them being only known to a few daring Tun
gusian hunters, who had penetrated some "portions of them
in search of the elk, mountain goat, and sable.
Owing to the scarcity of reindeer in the Amoor region, we
could only procure eighteen for our journey. Four of these
would be required as riding animals for our party, which
consisted of Mahood, Mr. Swartz, interpreter, Yakov, the Cos
sack, and myself. Two Tungusians, who were to accompany
us as guides to Tugur, and to take care of the deer, supplied
their own riding animals. The fourteen remaining for pack
ing our supplies and equipments were not sufficient to admit
of our carrying a very complete outfit for the long journeys
ahead of us ; consequently we were forced to abandon all our
personal baggage except the fur clothing we had procured
at Petropaulovski, and two or three changes of under-cloth
ing. Of provision we carried only enough to enable us to
reach Tugur, where Captain Lindholm informed us our sup
ply could be replenished. These consisted of tea, sugar, and
pork principally. Fresh meat we expected to obtain from
the Tungusians, to procure which we supplied ourselves with
ten gallons of alcohol for trading purposes. In addition to
the above, a light, cone-shaped canvas tent, made in the gov
ernment sail-loft at the port; twenty-six canvas panniers for
packing purposes, and four wooden, leather-covered boxes,
with locks and keys, for the same purpose, besides bedding
and,a few cooking utensils, completed our outfit, with the ex
ception of a small Fahrenheit spirit thermometer, and a larger
one of Reaumur scale, flints and steels, compasses, and a few
minor articles.
Our cuisine was very limited, comprising merely a tea-ket-

118 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
tie, fry-pan, small tin pail for making soup, and three enam
eled iron cups and saucers, with wooden spoons. For the
remainder we depended upon sheath-knives and fingers. I
neglected to mention our revolvers, two of Sharpe's breech-
loading carbines, and a double-barreled shot-gun. For the
Reaumur thermometer we were indebted to the kindness of
Captain Belsoif.
The steamer Gonets, which was placed at our disposal for
the trip to the lake, was a handsome little craft, built espe
cially as a dispatch-boat for the navigation of the lower
Amoor. Her comfortable arrangement and general appur
tenances were eminently fitted to the service for which she
was intended, though the thin iron hulk, which yielded like
India-rubber to the action of the waves, was somewhat sug
gestive of frailty. Upon a former occasion during our so
journ, while making a short excursion up the river, this weak
ness became so manifest that we all began to fear lest she
should collapse altogether. Waves were rolling very high
on the river at the time.
The day of our departure was very favorable — calm and
pleasant, but toward night it grew colder. At 7 o'clock P.M.
the thermometer indicated +22° Fahrenheit — ten degrees be
low the freezing point. This sudden fall somewhat excited
our anxiety lest we should, after all, be frozen out and forced
to retrace our steps to Nikolayefsk, notwithstanding we could
easily have reached our destination the following morning,
weather permitting.
No steamer had as yet ever penetrated to the lake, nor had
we any one with us who was at all familiar with the route,
else we would have steamed during the night. The whole
country at this point is cut up by innumerable sluices and
channel-ways, forming an intricate network. Among these
our route lay, and the Gilaks being the only ones who could
guide us, upon reaching one of their villages called Margah,
forty-three versts above Nikolayefsk, at 8.30 o'clock P.M.,
our boat was tied up to shore, and Mahood and Swartz went
to secure their assistance. Two of the natives promised
to accompany us, and by 4 A.M. the next morning we were
again under way.
During the night the temperature had again risen to 28°,

UP THE AMOOR.— THROUGH THE ICE. 119
though the effect of the cold was visible on all sides, where
sheets of thin ice clung to the river banks.
Shortly after starting we passed a small Russian settle
ment called Palvo, containing three or four log houses, but
did hot stop, and immediately afterward entered one of the
small channel-ways leading from the river to the lake. Our
route was very circuitous, winding through prairie lands, dot
ted here and there with clusters of trees.
Up to this time we had encountered but little ice ; but, as
we penetrated farther into the narrow lagoons, the quantity
increased alarmingly. The narrow strips we had first seen
clinging to the shores, as we advanced gradually encroached
upon the surface of the water, until at length we found our
selves confronted by a continuous sheet half an inch in thick
ness. Into this the steamer plunged, cleaving its own way,
and with her small paddle-wheels shivering the glassy sur
face into myriads of particles. At first we made very good
progress, the ice being too thin to afford much opposition ;
but later it became much thicker, some of it measuring fully
an inch, and our speed was greatly diminished.
This, we became convinced, was the opening of winter in
earnest, and, as not more than twenty miles intervened be
tween us and the head of the lake, after a short consultation
it was decided to make a strenuous effort to break our way
through, even at the risk of having the steamer frozen in.
Failing in this, our only alternative would be to return to
Nikolayefsk, there to await the sealing up of the Amoor for
good, and then, with horses or dogs> to proceed to the lake
and make a fresh start.
Yakov (the Cossack) and the Tungusians, after reaching
the lake and finding no one to meet them, would soon be
obliged to leave in search of food, or, perhaps, would depart
altogether, thinking our expedition abandoned. All this
would necessitate long delays before other arrangements
could be made; besides, in order to complete the long jour
neys ahead of us before the close of winter, no time could be
spared. To add to our alarm, at 9.30 A.M. a furious snow-storm set
in, accompanied by a light wind. The flakes fell so thick and
fast as to hide from view all traces of shore, and in a few mo-

120 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
ments whiten the ice. All landmarks were lost, but the Gi
laks felt perfectly confident of guiding us to the lake unless
prevented by ice, so we continued forward.
In this manner we had been running for some time, still
breaking our way, when the boat suddenly stopped, having
grounded. By backing off and putting on additional steam,
a passage was opened in another direction for a short dis
tance, when we again grounded. To proceed was now out
of the question. The Gilaks, in reply to our inquiries, con
fessed their total ignorance of our whereabouts, having be
come confused in the storm, and the officer of the boat re
ported that his supply of fuel was nearly exhausted.
These were gloomy moments for us, and cast a damper
upon the spirits of all on board. After another short con
sultation, we concluded that nothing could be done but to
return as we had come, while our fuel lasted. With great
reluctance we turned about, intending to go to Palvo, and
there await either a spell of moderate weather, when we
would renew our journey in Gilak lotkas to the head of the
lake, or, should it become colder, procure dogs and try to
reach Tugur with sledges. Our hearts failed within us at
the prospect of defeat at the very outset.
After running an hour and a half, we came to a rude hab
itation where were twenty-five or thirty soldiers fishing, to
lay in a supply for winter use. We were very hospitably
received at this place, and, as the weather was by this time
moderating, tried to procure a guide from among the sol
diers, in order to make another effort. None, however, could
be prevailed upon to accompany us for fear of being frozen
in and starved before aid could reach them.
We nevertheless determined to make one more attempt,
and, having secured the services of two Yakouts as pilots
who fortunately happened to pass by in a canoe at the time,
set the soldiers at work chopping wood, to renew our supply
of fuel, and by night were in readiness to attempt another
passage. Now prospects of success were much more en
couraged, as it began to rain, and the thermometer had been
standing all the afternoon at +33°.
In the morning it was still raining, and, the Yakouts hav
ing come aboard, we left our moorings at 7 A.M., heading

ORELL LAKE. 121
for the lake. We experienced no difficulty in finding our
way, and soon came to the entrance to the lake, but, con
trary to our expectations, instead of yesterday's ice having
disappeared, it extended ahead as far as we could see in a
vast, unbroken, snow-covered sheet. Into this the steamer
cleft its way, but not without much difficulty. Frequently
she would get wedged in, and have to back out for a fresh
effort. After working our way for a mile into the lake, the
crew refused to go farther, but we persuaded them to try it
a little while longer, and, in a few minutes, open water was
discovered far ahead. For this we made, and soon had the
gratification of finding ourselves with clear sailing. The lake
is about thirty versts in length by twenty in width, and av
erages in depth from three to eight feet, which was abundant
water, as our craft drew but one foot.
When we had reached the middle, a strong northerly wind
arose, which tried the strength of our little steamer greatly,
and, though her thin iron hull shook and yielded to the press
ure of the waves like an India-rubber boat, she brought us
safely to our point of destination. Upon nearing shore we
descried two very dilapidated log huts, but, as no smoke
could be seen issuing from their mud chimneys, we knew
that, for the time being, they were unoccupied.
A half mile farther eastward- could be seen a faint curl of
smoke rising against the dark background of larch-trees bor
dering the lake. For this we headed, in expectation of find
ing Yakov and the deer, but, upon approaching nearer, two
lotkas hauled up on the beach proclaimed it to be a Gilak
encampment. Having selected a suitable spot near by for our tent, our
supplies were soon landed, and the Gonets, turning her prow
homeward, rapidly disappeared from view in a thick haze
that began to settle upon the lake. This was the last we
ever saw or heard of her ; but, as mild weather followed her
departure, we had no reason to doubt her safe return.
Our Gilak neighbors could give us no information concern
ing the deer, they themselves having been but a day or two
on the lake. While making their way to their winter quar
ters, which were situated upon a neighboring stream, the
cold snap had overtaken them, and prevented them, by the

122 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
formation of ice upon the rivers, from reaching their desti
nation. They, however, reported having heard shouts far
around the shore, which we thought might be our men, who
were unable to come nearer on account of ice in the rivers
entering the lake. This ice was too thin to sustain the
weight of a man, and yet too thick to allow the deer to wade
or swim, and might prove an obstacle for many days.
While our tent was being pitched by the two Yakout pi
lots, who had agreed to remain with us a few days, Mahood
and Swartz borrowed one of the lotkas from the Gilaks and
went in search ofthe missing party. Upon their return, they
reported also having heard hallooing, but it was so far dis
tant that they thought best to return to camp for food be
fore attempting to find them. We had none of us eaten any ,
thing but a few sardines and crackers since leaving Nikola
yefsk, and all felt the need of something more substantial.
The Yakouts consumed but little time in frying several
fine salmon-trout obtained from the Gilaks, which, with a
large kettle of hot tea, rapidly vanished from our board.
Immediately afterward Mahood again set out, accompanied
by one of the Yakouts, in a drizzling rain, to seek for the
deer. Our tent, being new and of very thin material, leaked badly
— so much so that we could keep nearly as dry, and certainly
much warmer, walking outside. We tried a small fire within,
but in a few moments the smoke became unbearable, and for
want of better refuge Swartz and myself fled to our Gilak
neighbors. Their only shelter consisted of birch-bark, sewed
together in long narrow strips about two feet in length, and
spread over a frame of light poles sloping to the ground and
forming a shed-like covering, open in front and at each end.
This was erected upon the beach, facing the high wooded
bank, which served as a protection from the wind.
As we came up, one of the women was in the act of pre
paring the noonday meal over a small fire in front of the
camp. A small pot contained several fine trout, near which
was hanging a good-sized copper tea-kettle (a rare article
among the Gilaks, who are, as a general thing, unable to in
dulge in tea). On this occasion we furnished them, in ex
change for fish.

GILAKS AT HOME.

123

GILAK ENCAMPMENT.

Beneath the shed several deer-skins were spread over a
thick layer of green boughs, upon which half a dozen humans
and about as many dogs lay twisted and coiled into almost
every conceivable shape. The group presented a curious, if
not interesting tableau, which I will endeavor to portray in a
few words, as it conveyed to us a very complete idea of the
internal workings of a Gilak domicil, as well as some of their
occupations. At or near one end of the shed was a babe, tightly band
aged in a wooden box or cradle, something like those used
by our American Indians, but with its little legs from the
knees downward unfettered. This cradle was suspended from
the ridge-pole, in an upright position, by four leather thongs,
which were just long enough to enable the little one to reach
the ground with its feet, by which it swung itself back and
forth without assistance.
Near by, sitting cross-legged, Turkish-fashion, upon the
skins, two frowsy-headed, haggard-looking women were sew
ing very industriously upon filthy skin garments, only paus
ing now and then to give some directions to the cook, and to
launch something — what I don't know, but it sounded very
harsh — upon the heads of a couple of naked little urchins,

124 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
who were disputing the possession of a deer-skin bed with an
old, half-famished, toothless dog. The latter appeared to be
conscious of his rights, however, and obstinately refused to
budge beneath the feeble blows of his tormentors. Other
dogs were in abundance, but the crowning feature of all was
an old hag (no other word will express it), wrinkled, withered,
and toothless, and clothed in the dirtiest of dirty skins, with
long, scant locks of hair dangling wildly about her face. She
would have been a pitiable object had it not been for her oc
cupation — that of catching vermin from the head of a dirty-
faced girl, and disposing of them in a manner not very con
ducive to one's appetite.
Upon leaving the Gilak encampment, we climbed the bank
just in front of it, to the woods above, when we found our
selves upon a spot held sacred by the Gilaks. Upon all sides,
scattered through the woods, were skulls of bears, poised
upon the stumps of small trees from four to six feet above
the ground. These were intended as some kind of offering
to the native gods, and, when newly placed in position (we
afterward learned), were sprinkled with tobacco,berries, roots,
and other articles. None of these offerings appeared to be
of more recent date than two years, while some were so old
as to crumble beneath the touch, and others were buried in
such a profusion of moss as to be hardly recognizable. After
being once placed, it is deemed very sacrilegious ever to dis
turb them again. Time and the elements, according to Gilak
notions, can alone tamper with them with impunity.
At 5 o'clock P.M. Mahood returned, wet and hungry, after
a long, hard pull up several small rivers and along the beach,
having met with no success ; but an hour later one of the
Gilaks, who had also been absent all day, brought the wel
come intelligence that Yakov and the deer were ten versts
distant on the lake, unable to approach nearer on account of
the ice, as we had expected. To help them along, we resolved
to send our Yakouts and the two Gilaks with lotkas early the
following morning.
The following brief extract from my diary, referring to the
latter portion of our first day in camp, will convey a notion
of the weather and our appreciation of it :
" 8 P.M. — Rain, rain, rain, and prospects of its continuing.

LIFE AMONG THE GILAKS. 125
It is very disagreeable, but what else was to be expected of
Siberia? Thermometer at night +40° Fahrenheit.
" Oct. 2Uh. — Still raining ; but our natives started off for
the deer, after catching a nice mess of fish in a neighboring
stream for our day's allowance."
To while away the time, Swartz and I took our guns to try
and get some birds, but soon returned wet through to the
skin, without game. Some of our neighbors, however, brought
us several " rapsheaks-," or small brown tree-partridges, that
abound in this Section ofthe country. A small lump of sugar
was considered liberal compensation for them — much greater
than they usually receive, I imagine, as they have been infest
ing our tent ever since, bringing other birds, fish, and "ukale"
with which to trade for tea, powder, lead, or any thing we
would give them ; but we were obliged to discontinue trad
ing for fear of diminishing our stores too much. We could
not make them understand that all our supplies would be re
quired for the journey before us, as they carry and consume
but little food while traveling.
These people might with propriety be called an aquatic
tribe. During the summer months they almost live upon the
water, paddling here and there in their lotkas continually.
For their food, likewise, both during summer and winter, they
rely upon this source nearly exclusively. What traveling
they do in winter is accomplished with dogs ; but this is very
little, their preference being decidedly to lie and vegetate in
their dingy, smoky habitations during the cold weather, wait
ing for the advent of spring before renewing their out-of-door
exercises. These exercises, rowing and fishing principally, are only
partial, benefiting merely the muscles of the upper portion
of the body. Owing to this fact, it is not uncommon to see
men among them powerful and robust about the chest and
arms, while their lower limbs are comparatively so small'
and puny as to convey the impression of deformity.
At 5 o'clock P.M., as we sat in our tent, the cry of " Alane !
alane !" from one of the natives outside caused us all to
spring to our feet. We had already acquired enough Rus
sian to know that this meant deer; but little time was con
sumed in finding the door, so eager were we to catch a first

126 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
glimpse of the famous reindeer of which we had heard and
read so much since infancy. Each of us (that is, Mahood and
myself, for the others were already familiar with the rein
deer) had an imaginary animal in our mind's eye, and were
curious to know how much it coincided with the reality;
but alas ! we were doomed to disappointment as far as our
ideals were concerned. Our first impressions were not at all
favorable to the animal, nor were our last. This, of course,
was owing td the great expectations in which we had in
dulged. About half a mile distant, picking their way along the
rocky beach, approached a long train of awkward, clumsy-
looking animals, most of them white, which one would readi
ly have mistaken for cows at a distance. In the first place,
such a thing as a white deer had never occurred to me, at least.
As they drew nearer we distinguished their large antlers, but
the troop was a regular Falstaff 's brigade as far as uniform
ity was concerned. Most of them were white, the remainder
having brown backs and light-colored bellies. Two or three of
the band had fine, large, complete antlers ; but of the remain
der, some had the right horn missing, and others were minus
the left ; a few had both horns chopped off about six inches
from the skull, leaving a savage-looking, fan-like prong pro
jecting over the forehead, shaped something like a person's
hand. These last were all bucks, and were trained for riding,
their horns having been cut off for fear of injury to the
rider. There were still others that had no antlers at all,
having lost them fighting each other, or broken them off in
the woods.
This was the season for them to shed the skin or velvet
from their horns preparatory to their being hardened for win
ter, and long bloody strings of it hung dangling over the
eyes and heads ofthe animals, giving them any thing but the
appearance of domestic creatures. After the antlers have
attained their full size, and become tolerably hard and
strong, the deer experiences a very acute itching in them as
long as they are in velvet. To obtain relief, whenever oppor
tunity offers, the animal rubs and scratches them against
trees, by which process the velvet is loosened and torn into
shreds, and then dangles from. the horns sometimes for many

FIRST SIGHT OF REINDEER. 127
days, unless prematurely cut off by their masters, who use
their sheath-knives for the purpose. Both sexes have horns,
though those of the male are much larger and heavier, fre
quently measuring six feet in the curve. They begin to shed
them in February. I was very much disappointed as to their
size in particular, since I had expected to see large, majestic-
looking creatures ; but their backs are rarely more than five
feet above the ground. Their heads without the horns are
very much like those of cows, but their bodies are much
narrower, elevated upon slight legs, which terminate in
broad, large hoofs, the latter also much like those of the
cow. The hoof spreads when the animal steps, enabling it
to travel more easily over snow and marshes, and when
raised for another step the two toes strike together, keeping
up a continuous rattle when the animal travels over a hard
surface. The male has a thick bunch of long hair under the
throat. Mounted on the shoulders of the leading deer sat a figure
dressed in heavy fur clothing, that made him look as large
as two ordinary men. As he approached, his body swayed
from side to side with each step of the deer, and in his hand
he carried a staff which was kept continuously in motion,
either thrusting the poor animal in the sides or striking it
over the antlers. At the same time, both feet were kept
busily employed kicking the sides and chest of the creature,
each blow being accompanied by a peculiar " cluck" of the
tongue, such as I had not before heard. It seemed very
much like working one's passage ; yet, in spite of all these
demonstrations, the deer could not be made to move faster
than a walk. This, after all, did not seem so very strange to
us ; for, judging from the relative sizes of the two creatures,
the man and the deer, it would have been much more appro
priate and just for the rider to carry the ridden. Following
this leading deer were six or eight others, each fastened to
the one preceding it by a halter made of seal-thong,' and car
rying on its back — or rather shoulders — a very small pack-
saddle. Then came another huge fur-covered individual,
going through the same motions as the first, and leading the
remainder of the deer, amounting in all to twenty.
The boat came up at the same time, containing Yakov, our

128 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
Cossack escort, and the little baggage he and our Tungusian
guides intended to carry with them on the journey, besides
the Yakout and Gilak we had sent in search of them. They
had been on the lake four days, and, as we supposed, were
unable to reach the rendezvous on account of the ice in the
rivers. When the lotka came up, by putting their baggage
in it, and swimming the deer tied together behind the boat,
they managed to circle the mouths of the rivers without
encountering much ice. Four streams had to be passed in
this manner.
As the first native dismounted, and threw back his fur hood
or bonnet to salute us, we at once recognised one of the
Tungusians whom we had seen at the governor's residence in
Nikolayefsk, Mikhaeloff by name. The other, Constantine,
was an entire stranger to us.
These names are both Russian, having been given and
adopted at the time the parties were baptized into the Greek
Church, as is the usual custom. The Tungusians have the
dark skins, enormous cheek-bones, and small, keen black eyes
of the Tartars in general, though occasionally persons with
eyes of a grayish tinge are to be met among them. In
cleanliness, language, customs, and mode of living, they dif
fer materially from their Gilak neighbors, also somewhat in
the style of dress, for which the same material is used, how
ever. This dress is quite simple, made of deerskin for both
summer and winter use, the latter, of course, being much
thicker and heavier. The chief article consists of a large
fur coat, cut something like our own, open in front, and with
out the hood of the Kamtchadales. This is worn next the
body, without other covering. A pair of short, closely-fit
ting skin pants, with the fur inside, cover the upper portion
of the lower limbs, while their feet and legs upward to the
knee are incased in deerskin torbassa, soled with bear or
sealskin. While exercising, they generally go with the head uncov
ered, though always wear suspended about the neck a " mal-
achi," or detached fur hood, for use when required. Many
of these hoods are quite ornamental. The legs of the red,
black, and silver-gray fox are preferred in their manufacture,

THE TUNGUSIANS. 139
differently-colored skins being sewed together alternately in
stripes, and bordered with sable, beaver, or sea-otter.
These people do not allow the hair to grow long like the
Gilaks and other tribes farther south, but keep it trimmed
tolerably short, with the exception of a long lock on either
side of the face in front of their ears. Their habits are pure
ly nomadic. They reside in cone-shaped skin tents, so con
structed that they can be erected in a few minutes. (Our
own was made after the same pattern.) These, together with
their few household utensils, they pack upon their deer when
ever game has been exhausted or frightened away from one
locality, and the next night may be found as comfortably and
contentedly settled in an entirely new region. They subsist
altogether by the chase, and upon what few simple articles
they receive in exchange for furs from Russian traders, whom
they meet annually at some established point. Their terri
tory extends from the Amoor northward to the town of
Okhotsk, and westward to the great Lena, though they are
by no means a numerous tribe.
Since we would not be able to commence our journey for
a day or two, the deer were conducted to a feeding-ground,
distant about a mile from camp, and turned loose. Like
sheep, they herd together, rarely wandering off. Two or
three thoroughly domesticated animals will prevent a large
herd from straying as long as food is to be had. They sub
sist upon a light-colored moss that is found in dry localities
growing close to the ground. The country bordering Orell
Lake, and extending for some distance to the west and north,
being mostly low and swampy, but little of it is produced,
consequently reindeer are scarce, either in a wild or domesti
cated state.
Now that Yakov and the Tungusians had arrived, we no
longer needed the services of the two Yakouts who had re
mained with us since the departure ofthe Gonets, and, after
we had given them a few roubles and a " che-peet" (which
means a fill of tea), they took their departure.
They were very loth to go, notwithstanding, and before
pushing off in their lotka came to our tent, and after bow
ing and crossing themselves to the guardian saint of our hab-
itation, invoked its blessings upon us ; also, with tears in their
I

130 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
eyes, thanked' us for the liberal compensation they had re
ceived, as they supposed. I only relate this to show the sus
ceptibility of their natures. By them every house, tent, and
habitation of any kind is supposed to be under the protection
of a guardian saint. They never think of entering one with
out reverently uncovering and crossing themselves. This
custom is only to be found among those natives who have
adopted the Greek faith, the others being very unceremo^
nious. At the leave-taking with our men, all uncovered
their heads, and the ceremony of kissing each other three
times upon the cheek was performed. This we likewise aft
erward found to be a common custom both at meeting and
parting. During our sojourn upon the lake we fared quite sump
tuously. Our Gilak neighbors, for trifling compensation,
kept us abundantly supplied with lake trout, partridges, and
cranberries, and, upon the arrival of Mikhaeloff, a fine quar
ter of venison was added to our larder, to say nothing of
deer-milk for our tea and coffee supplied by a doe in the
herd. The reindeer meat, though I think a little coarser
grained than that of our American deer, we found much
more delicately flavored than the latter, and but little infe
rior to the best beef. The milk, however, was much inferior-
to that of the cow in flavor, though it contained much more
body. A tea-cupful which the doe supplied each night was
equivalent, in the amount of nourishment it contained, to
nearly a quart of ordinary cow's milk. This small yield was
probably owing to irregularity of milking.
The next day was devoted to repacking our stores and ar
ranging them in quantities suitable for loading upon the
deer. Each pack-animal was capable of carrying about one
hundred pounds dead weight, but no more, with safety.
Each riding deer, however, being larger and stronger than
the others, could carry a man weighing one hundred and
seventy-five pounds with ease, if in good condition, as a rider
preserves his own equilibrium, and there is not that constant
strain on the beast. Our pack-saddles were made much after
the fashion of those used for packing mules in California, but
were much smaller, since they were intended to fit upon the
fore-shoulders of the beast. Each one consisted of two small

REINDEER SADDLES— GOOD TEETH. 131
buckskin pads stuffed with moss or hair, and united at the
ends by bows made of pieces of deer-horns selected with their
natural curves. Between the pads space was left to admit
of the working of the deer's shoulders.
The riding-saddle was very nearly the same in appearance
as the pack-saddle, with the exception that the pads were a
little wider, and stood out more from the animal's shoulders,
presenting a broader and flatter surface to sit upon. These
last, by measurement, were one foot in length and fourteen
inches in width. No stirrups are used, nor any kind of sup
port whatever for the feet. The saddle is fastened upon the
deer by a single girth around the body, and, as before stated,
placed upon the fore-shoulder.
While loading or mounting the deer, great care is neces
sary to prevent any part of the weight from resting upon
the animal's back, which is very weak. An apparently
slight pressure, Mikhaeloff informed us, would sometimes
completely disable the animal. The bridles, or, rather, halt
ers, were made of pliable seal-thong, or braided strands of
buckskin, and were formed exactly like our own.
This day we had an opportunity of witnessing one of those
remarkable feats of strength of which people frequently hear,
but few are permitted to see. In fact, we were somewhat
dubious ourselves as to the correctness of our eyesight, nor
did we believe until there was no other alternative. The
hero of the occasion was Yakov, our Cossack, himself a small
man in stature ; but, as the feat was accomplished with his
teeth and jaws, this, perhaps, is not to be considered. It hap
pened in this wise : While discharging our cargo from the
Gonets, one ofthe leather-covered panniers was badly broken.
This had to be repaired before it could be used in packing,
and we were at a loss to know where to procure nails for the
purpose. At length, among our articles, part of a box was
found in which several nails were tightly driven, but then
the difficulty of extracting these without breaking them off
presented itself. Our hatchet was tried, and so was every
other means at hand, but without success. Finally the Cos
sack deliberately kneeled, placing his knees upon the frag
ment so as to hold it perfectly steady, and with his teeth
extracted the only two remaining unbroken. Upon our ex-

132 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
pressing astonishment at this, Swartz informed us that most
of these people have powerful jaws and teeth. Always, in
purchasing an axe, they test its quality by trying to bite the
edge off. This test is so effective that they are rarely im
posed upon.

PACKING UP. 133

CHAPTER VIII.
Packing up. — Riding Deer. — A Tableau. — Impressive Ceremony. — Yakov
in Danger. — Mounting the Deer. — Mishaps. — The Polka. — Russian Mode
of Riding Deer. — Our Journey commenced. — Disgraceful Fall. — The
Country. — Making Camp. — Tardy Start. — Lassoing Deer. — The Lariat. —
Swamp Land.- — Cranberries. — Wild Reindeer.— The Birpocoon. — Curious
Mound.- — Refractory Pack-deer. — Mikhaeloff's Cure. — The Yasmall.—
Rain. — Camp. — Hunting Grouse. — Success. — Constantine's Shelter. —
Tungusian Mode of Sleeping. — The Sabbath.— Diluted Alcohol. — Our Vis
itors. — Eating Hair-oil. — Still Raining. — Making Portraits. — Humanity
in the Wilderness. — Sheared. — Natives. — The Stars. — More Rain. —
Bridge-building. — Luna.
On the morning of Thursday, October 26th, we were all astir
bright and early. The day was a little cloudy, but bade fair
to turn out well. Nevertheless, had it threatened to rain pitch
forks and Dutch-ovens, I doubt whether we could have been
prevailed upon to postpone our departure. The journey was
before us, and we were anxious to plunge into it. We had
met with so many unexpected delays, and the monotony and
tediousness of being compelled to lie closely housed in our
tent to avoid saturation from the disagreeable drizzling rain
that had fallen almost incessantly since our arrival on Orell
Lake, had prepared us to submit to any alternative for the
sake of a change. By the time Mikhaeloff and Constantine
had returned from the feeding-grounds with the deer, the tent
was struck and rolled up into a compact bundle, and the
other packages were tied together in pairs of equal weight,
with seal-thongs, ready to be thrown over the pack-saddles
and girded on.
Then came the distribution of the riding deer. The rest
had had more or less experience with them, and as Mahood
and I were anxious to take it a little moderately until we had
acquired the art, the two most gentle animals were assigned
to us. Our supplies were first packed upon the fourteen deer
intended for the purpose, and afterward top-loads were made
of our bedding, the cooking utensils, tent, and other light ar
ticles that would be required for daily use, so that it would

134 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
not be necessary to unpack any of the bundles except for pro
vision until we should arrive at our next destination — Tugur,
on the bay of the same name. The scene which presented
itself at this time was a very novel and interesting one. The
pack deer were fastened one after the other by their halters,
in three trains, to be led by Yakov and each of the Tungu
sians, all of whom stood by their animals ready to mount at
the signal. Our Gilak friends were gathered about, with eyes
and mouths open, watching our proceedings, and ready to
pounce upon our deserted camp in search of fragments of
bread and sugar as soon as we should leave it. Mahood,
Swartz, and I each stood holding the halter of his deer, hav
ing previously searched the camp to see that nothing was
being left behind.
In one hand Yakov held a cup of diluted alcohol, anxiously
waiting for the moment when he could commence imbibing.
Now came the most impressive part of the proceeding. With
slow and solemn movement Mahood put his hand under that
part of his coat nearest his heart, and drew therefrom a sus
picious-looking black bottle that had been reserved for the
occasion. A blow with his sheath-knife shattered the neck ;
the jagged bowl was raised on high, and amid a silence that
was awful in its intensity, drank to " absent friends." The
admiring assemblage of Gilaks being no longer able to re
strain their enthusiasm, burst forth in a subdued smile. It is
needless to say that we all drank to that toast. This cere
mony affected Yakov so greatly that, in order to conceal his
grief, he buried his face in the cup of alcohol, and might pos
sibly have drowned himself in its contents had not Mikhael
off and Constantine, fearing for the safety of their own al
lowances, rushed forward to prevent the catastrophe. Three
cheers were then given ; our guides mounted and started
ahead, and so might have commenced our journey, but, for
various reasons, the rest of us did not get into the saddle. To
mount a reindeer is by no means a simple operation for the
beginner, so great care being necessary in order not to injure
the beast ; and, besides, it requires a good deal of agility,
which I, for one, did not possess. The rider, to assist him in
this process, always carries a staff, called by the Russians
•",polka." This " polka" is about five feet in length, and near

REINDEER-RIDING. 135
the bottom has a small hoop fastened around it by a network
of deerskin thongs, which prevents it from sinking into the
snow in winter. A similar staff is also used in snow-shoeing.
To mount the deer, the rider takes the rein or halter in his
right hand, which hand he places on the saddle, and rests his
left upon the top of this staff. Then, with an easy movement,
he places his right foot upon the saddle, and, dividing his
weight equally between his two hands," springs lightly into
place. But to do this requires considerable calculation, as
the skin on the deer's shoulders is very loose; and, should you
spring an inch too far, or not quite far enough, the saddle will
turn, in which case there is no alternative but to come to the
ground. Even after being mounted, until one becomes an
expert in reindeer-riding, it requires his constant attention to
preserve his -equilibrium. This looseness ofthe skin accounts
for the odd, swinging motion ofthe rider already described,
as the deer in walking, by the movement of his shoulder-
blades, tips the saddle first to one side and then to the other.
To counteract this, when the saddle tips to the left, the rider
must lean to the right, and " vice versa."
Knowing these facts, the reader will not be surprised at
our failures. Swartz, having more confidence than Mahood
or I, sprang a little too far, consequently went entirely over
his deer. Mahood began well, but was a little too slow ; for,
as soon as his right foot touched the saddle, his deer started
ahead and prevented him from gaining his seat. I failed in
the very first principles, since I could not kick high enough
to get my foot over the saddle at all, and, after three or four
fruitless efforts, had to call on one of the guides to help me
into my seat. The Gilak children were highly amused at
our manoeuvres, as were, in fact, the whole party.
While in Petropaulovski the ispravnik told us we would
have to ride on deer if we traversed this country, but, as it
was something we had never read or heard of before, and we
did not think it possible for a deer to carry a man's weight,
we supposed he was jesting. He said, however, a Russian
friend of his had made a short journey once with reindeer,
and found it necessary to carry two polkas, which he trailed
on each side of his deer to prevent his falling off. We did
not use two of them, but neither did we, ride without falling

136 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
off, and I doubt whether two staffs would have prevented
our tumbling.
We took a westerly course from the lake, which was soon
lost from sight, and, after traversing about five versts* of
boggy, swampy land sprinkled with "hackmatack" or larch-
trees, we arrived at good feed grounds for the deer, and con
cluded to halt for the night. It was some time since our
deer had been last packed, and we did not wish to tire them
too much at the start ; besides, we ourselves felt like halting,
for, though we had not gone very far, the difficulty we had
experienced in retaining our seats, and a little soreness re
sulting from occasional tumbles, made the proposal to camp
acceptable to all.
We felt highly flattered by our first experience, for, strange
as it may seem, the falls did not average more than one to
the verst. One of these, though, I confess, occasioned me
some mortification, and did not much enhance my reputa
tion as a rider. The deer was standing perfectly still at the
time, which put me off my guard, and, by simply turning its
head to one side, I lost my equilibrium, and the saddle turned.
The oldest rider frequently falls off; for while sitting 01. the
saddle, the rider's knees are on both sides and above the
deer's neck, leaving his feet dangling underneath, without
stirrups or any thing by which he can brace himself if once
started sideways.
In a very few minutes after stopping our Tungusians had
cut twenty or thirty long slim poles, the bases of which they
planted in a circle twelve feet in diameter, allowing the tops
to lean together in such a manner as to support each other.
Over these we spread our tent. Boughs were afterward cut
and strewn over the ground inside, upon which to make our
beds, a space being left in the middle large enough for the
fire, over which our tea-kettle was singing in almost as short
a space of time as it has taken me to write this description.
It was our intention to make an early start the following
morning, but were prevented from doing so by the wildness
of the deer. Some of these had to be lassoed, and our guides
found much difficulty in accomplishing it on account of the
thick growth of trees that surrounded camp. The lariat
* A verst is five eighths of a mile.

LASSOING REINDEER.— ON THE BIRPOCOON. 137
used for the purpose is a long thin line cut from a sealskin,
and made pliable by being kept well oiled. It is very strong,
though strength is not so very essential, as these deer have
all been lassoed so much that they yield without further ado
the moment the line strikes their antlers. As with our na
tive Californians, the lariat is deemed an indispensable article
among the Tungusians.
After the wildest animals had been secured, lassoes were
then stretched from tree to tree in a semicircle, forming a
corral, into which the remainder were driven. The country
we were traversing, though naturally soft and swampy, was
made doubly so by the recent rains, and our deer, burdened
with heavy loads, frequently sank to their knees in the mud
and water. During the greater portion of this day's journey
we were unable to ride on this account.
We continued a westerly course through a flat, monoto
nous country, where no trees were to be seen but larch
(which were abundant), except as we approached some wa
ter-course, on the banks of which grew a few white birches.
Portions of the route were literally covered with cranberries,
and two or three wild deer were seen during the morning.
About 12 o'clock we struck a small rapid stream, called
by our guides the Birpocoon River. Up this we traveled
through a pass in a range of low hills, beyond which we
found ourselves in a narrow, marshy valley, through which
the Birpocoon flows. At noon we stopped to make tea, and
after a short rest, pushed on up the stream, our trail occa
sionally leading along the hill- side, when we would seize
upon an opportunity to ride a short distance.
At 5 o'clock, cold, tired, and wet to our waists, we pitched
our tent on a dry spot, adjacent to deer-feed, for the night.
Near our tent was a singular oval-shaped mound, composed
of loose stones, on the top of which grew two quite large
hackmatacks. It was thirty feet long and seven feet high,
perfectly isolated, and had such a regular and artificial ap
pearance that I was inclined to believe it to be a large grave,
similar to the Indian mounds, or tumuli, of our own country.
If so, many years had elapsed since its construction.
During the day one of our pack-deer had been causing us
much trouble and delay by tearing the load from its shoul-

138 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES
ders with its right antler. At night, before letting the creat
ure loose, Mikhaeloff assured us that he would obviate the
difficulty, but how he would effect it we were all curious to
know. When the trains had been unpacked and freed, he
led the culprit animal up to a good-sized larch-tree, and, with
his lasso, proceeded to bind its head to the trunk in such a
manner that the natural curve of the antler encircled it, fit
ting it quite snugly. This completed, with his hatchet,
which was not over sharp, he chopped off the horn, the op
eration occupying some minutes. Other than from the jar
ring made by the blows, the deer did not seem to experience
any inconvenience until after it had been loosened from the
tree, when the preponderance of weight on the left side of
its head caused the creature to run in a circle for a half hour,
which time elapsed before it recovered from its fright.
At 10.30 A.M. the following day we forded a small stream,
called by our guides the Yasmall.* This stream flows east,
and empties into the Amgoon, a large branch of the Amoor.
At noon rain set in upon us, and, finding good feed for our
deer near at hand, we decided to camp until it should sub
side. This precaution we had to adopt to protect our stores,
many of which were of a destructible nature, and only se
cured in canvas bags. The country traversed during the
forenoon was the same as that of the previous day — low,
swampy, and detestable. We left the Birpocoon early in
the morning, keeping a northwesterly course.
As soon as we had camped and partaken of some tea,
Mikhaeloff, who had a great reputation among his tribe as a
hunter, started off with two ofthe best deer after game. For
want of better occupation, I donned my rubber poncho, and,
taking Swartz's shot-gun, also set out to try and make some
additions to our commissariat, which was, by this time, pret
ty nearly exhausted, as far as fresh meat or game was con
cerned. In about two hours' time I returned to camp, hav
ing shot a large bird of a species I had never seen before,
though Swartz called it a grouse. The following description
will, perhaps, enable ornithologists to classify it :
* For the names of rivers and mountains employed in the following pages.
I depended entirely upon our Tungusians, except where Russian names could
be obtained.

THE FIRST SABBATH. 139
The bird measured twenty-seven inches from the point of
the bill to the tip of the tail ; three feet from the tip of one
wing to that ofthe other, and the girth ofthe body was fif
teen inches. It was a female, and would weigh about five
pounds. The bill was short and black, and slightly beaked;
eyes and feet were also black ; legs were short, and covered
with feathers to the feet ; color brown, dappled with small
black and white spots. The male, Swartz informed us, is al
most black, and has a small red line over each eye.
Upon returning to the tent, I found that Constantine had
been busy constructing a shelter for himself and Mikhaeloff,
ours being only large enough to accommodate four persons.
It was a very scanty habitation, consisting of a dozen small
poles ranged in a half circle, and covered with deerskins, to
shelter the occupants from wind and rain. The covered space
seemed hardly large enough to protect one boy, much less two
men ; but the Tungusians, in sleeping, roll themselves up in a
very small space, doubling their knees up to their chins, and
laying with their backs to a large fire which they build in
front of their shelter. Their only bedding consists of a small
deerskin to lie on ; for covering, they take off their fur coats
(only one being worn by each person) and spread them over
their shoulders, leaving their bare backs exposed to the fire.
Except in rainy weather, however, a person would want noth
ing better than this simple protection, provided he had plenty
of bedding.
Mikhaeloff did not return until 5 o'clock. He saw no deer,
but brought in three large birds similar to the one I had shot;
so our stock of fresh meat was sufficiently large for the time
being. October 29th was our first Sabbath in camp ; it still rained
too hard to admit of traveling without injury to our supplies.
Notwithstanding it was the Sabbath, the six idle, healthy,
and hungry individuals that constituted our party made such
fearful inroads upon the stock of grouse on hand, that it was
deemed advisable to try and secure other while we had an
opportunity, and, with that aim in view, Swartz started out.
They were excellent eating, and we in excellent condition to
enjoy them. Though several had been shot and many others
seen, there was not a male among them.

140 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
After leaving the lake, we had made it a practice to deal
out rations of diluted alcohol to each of our men twice a day;
and even in this short time they had learned to look upon
these allowances as among the- conditions of their agreement
with us. About the customary hour this day, as we were
sitting in our tent, the entrance slowly opened, and the shag
gy head of Mikhaeloff immediately became visible. His er
rand was at once guessed, but no allusion was made to the
liquor, and, after sitting some minutes, he arose and left the
tent, evidently disappointed. In two or three minutes Con-
stantine appeared in the same manner, but, being a little cu
rious to know what would be the result, we still feigned ig
norance of the object of their visits. At length, becoming
tired, Constantine also arose and left. After this visit we
heard the two outside engaged in low conversation for some
moments, which was immediately followed by the appearance
of Mikhaeloff at the tent door. This time he was all smiles,
and brought a bladder of some white, greasy-looking sub
stance, which he insisted upon our accepting as a present.
We were unable to converse with him, Swartz being yet ab
sent, consequently could form no notion of what the bladder
contained. Mikhaeloff saw our hesitancy, and for a moment
thought that even this ruse would fail in producing the alco
hol ; but then his face suddenly brightened again, and, taking
a piece of bread, by. signs he made us to understand that the
substance was a substitute for butter. " What do you sup
pose that is, Bush ?" said Mahood, turning toward me with a
dubious expression of countenance. "Don't you think we
had better try a little for the sake of curiosity?" I assented
to the proposition, and, greatly to Mikhaeloff's satisfaction,
we commenced the repast, having previously pledged each
other to swallow every thing that passed our lips, by the
way of preparing our stomachs for future ordeals. The taste
was undefinable, though not particularly disagreeable. We
continued the eating for a few minutes, when Swartz re
turned, and Mikhaeloff pressed him to partake. A shake of
the head, accompanied with a shrug of his shoulders and
drawing up of his nose in a manner indicative of disgust,
caused both Mahood and myself to cease chewing, and with
one breath to ask what on earth it was. "Hair-oil ! hair-oil !"

UNAPPRECIATED PORTRAITS.

141

he replied; "it's bear-grdase." Each fixing his eyes on the
other to prevent deception, with a difficult gulp the half-
masticated morsels vanished, and we gave the Tungusians
their rations without farther ado.
Upon waking on the morning of the 30th, the first sound
that reached our ears was produced by the rain-drops, which
still continued to bespatter the tent. It was an unwelcome
sound ; but, there being no other alternative, we quietly re
signed ourselves to another day's delay. This shower, or
rather storm, we sincerely hoped would be the last of the
season, and that cold weath
er would follow and freeze
up the bogs so that travel
ing would be better. As
it then was, our heavily-
packed deer could with dif
ficulty get along at all, to
say nothing of our own dis
comfort in being obliged to
walk or wade throughout :
each day's journey.
For want of better pas
time, I persuaded Mikhael
off to sit for his portrait.
The fellow had never seen

MIKHAELOFF.

OONSTANTLNE.

a mirror in his life, and I
dare say had no conception
of the amount of ugliness
exhibited upon his counte
nance. At any rate, upon
seeing the picture, he man
ifested no delight, though
Constantine was verymuch
elated, and could not rest
contented until I had se
cured his picture also. But
alas for the weakness of
humanity! Though Mik
haeloff was the pleased one
this time, poor Constantine

142 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
was terribly crestfallen. The pictures seemed to have awak
ened in their minds strange revelations, and they retired from
the tent in a very thoughtful mood, each trying with his
hands to smooth down his neglected locks. Presently Con
stantine had occasion to borrow my scissors, and shortly aft
erward the two returned, with scarcely a vestige of hair re
maining on their heads, and implored me to make other like
nesses. During the day our larder was replenished by two more
grouse and a ptarmigan, or arctic partridge, the first we had
seen. At 9 P.M. stars once more appeared in the heavens, a
sight which we hailed with joy, as our patience had become
well-nigh exhausted, and we retired to our spruce beds fully
expecting to renew the journey on the following morning.
"October Zlst. — In camp. The elements have lost their
reason. Evidently forgetful that it has been raining almost
incessantly for the week past, they are favoring us with some
rain. No hope of departing this day."
During the afternoon, while hunting, Mikhaeloff discovered
that a small stream a mile ahead of camp had become so bad
ly swollen by the late rains as to require bridging ; and we
immediately started him and Constantine off to fall trees
across it. At 9.30 P.M. the moon favored us with a glance
at her benign countenance.

ON THE WAY AGAIN. 143

CHAPTER IX.
En Route. — Flooded Marshes.— Bad Traveling.— Poor Deer.— Labor of
Riding. — A Race. — Impressions on Deer-riding. — Yakov's Ingenuity. — A
novel Boot-jack. — Maimed Deer. — Old Man's Head. — Mikhaeloff's bad
Shooting. — The Mystery solved. — Mahood's Mishap. — Deer-doctoring. —
More Rain. — Snow. — Contrast.— -Vanguard of Winter. — The Chimcha-
galee. — The Male Grouse. — Tungusian Mode of Hunting. — Mikhaeloff's
Sickness. — The Remedy and Effect. — Our Camp. — Sable Grounds. — The
Divide. — First View of Usalghin Bay. — The Sololoucan. — Long Day's
Journey. — Broken Thermometer.— The Usalghin River. — Curious Mud
Mounds. — Ptarmigan and Cranberries. — Departure of Guides after a
Boat. — Desolation. — No Boat.- — Shelters for Deer from Musquitoes. — A
Feast at Night. — Luxury and the Price. — Bridging. — Sol's Condescen
sion. — Rafting the River. — A pretty Sight. — Better Traveling. — First
Frostbites. — Ten Degrees Fahrenheit below Zero. — Tracks of Wild Ani
mals. — Tungusian Trail. — Deserted Camp. — Death of the Deer. — Cache".
— Native Honesty. — The Ulban. — On the Ice. — Frozen Lakes. — Crystal
Carpets. — The Seran. — Jivarack. — Tugur Valley.
The repeated disappointments we had experienced each
morning, upon emerging from our tent, to find it raining, had
prepared us to expect nothing else, and it was not without a
little surprise that, early November 1st, we found the ground
coated with snow, and the weather suitable for the renewal
of our journey. But little time wap lost in assembling the
deer and striking our tent, and at a reasonable hour we were
picking our way through a vast overflowed marsh toward
the so-called bridge our guides had constructed the previous
night. This consisted merely of two large logs felled side by
side across the deep but-narrow stream. One of these, how
ever, had been swept away by the increased volume of wa
ter during the night, which fact, together with the uninvit
ing prospect of an endless lake to be traversed beyond the
stream, induced us to seek another crossing and better trav- -
eling farther up the creek. Failing in this, we retraced our
steps, after an hour and a half of delay, to the first place, and
succeeded in effecting a crossing by swimming the deer and
packing the loads across on our shoulders over the remaining
log. In the swamp beyond our deer frequently sank to their

144 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
bellies in mud and water, and at the very outset we all be
came thoroughly wet through — by no means a comfortable
condition with the temperature at +30°, as was the case this
day. From camp our course was nearly due west. Several oth
er swollen streams and flooded marshes had to be crossed
during the day; in fact, these covered nearly the whole
country, which was of a mossy, spongy nature, and perfectly
saturated by the recent rains. With each step, even where
we considered the traveling fair, ourselves and deer would
sink nearly to the knees, and, upon the withdrawal of our
feet, the tracks would instantaneously fill with water. With
such experiences, it will not be considered surprising that, by
this time, we had become disgusted with reindeer-riding, and,
in fact, every thing connected with the beast. Our train was
a very poor one, though, comprising both aged and blind, but
the country could afford no better.
Our riding was limited to less than one quarter of each
day's journey, but, even when mounted, the strenuous efforts
required incessantly to keep the beast moving at all afforded
but little relief after walking. Not only did we find it nec
essary to keep both legs continually going kicking our ani
mals, but even the polka had to be used freely over the deer's
horns, and our tongues had no rest. The reindeer — that no
ble beast we had always associated in our minds with the
hurricane, greased lightning, and things of like velocity — we
found, in reality, to be among the laziest of God's creatures.
No efforts on our part could induce them to go faster than a
walk. This was thoroughly demonstrated in a race between
Swartz and myself, mounted, with which we tried to enliven
the day's journey. During the exciting affair both of the
natives and the Cossack were dismounted, and walking be
hind our deer, poking them about the rumps and sides inces
santly, and ourselves using every effort with both muscle and
lungs, which ought, at least, to have frightened them; but it
was useless. They would not go faster than a walk. At this
time I could hardly rid myself of the notion that the beasts
were cows, their heads being very similar, particularly the
riding animals, whose horns were cut off close to the head,

YAKOV'S TEETH. 145
and I confess to feelings of compunction in mounting them.
Their frail backs and whole general appearance would seem
to indicate their unfitness as beasts of burden, however ap
plicable Jo draught purposes. Each time, upon seeing them
loaded down with boxes and bags, or carrying great, healthy
humans, it seemed a downright imposition — as though man,
conscious of his power, was subjecting the poor beasts to
purposes for which they were never intended by the Al
mighty. But yet the reindeer is all in all to these Northern
tribes, particularly in mountainous countries, where dogs can
not well be used, or food for them procured ; they could be
illy spared.
At 1.30 P.M. we came in sight of a range of mountains
higher than any we had before seen in the vicinity of the
Amoor. They were about fifteen versts south of our trail,
and attained an elevation of nearly three thousand feet. Be
fore camping, Mikhaeloff shot one of the large grouse for our
supper. This had been the hardest and coldest day's journey we
had yet experienced. It is easy to realize the delight we all
experienced as darkness settled upon the land, and with what
relish we enjoyed our comfortable little tent, the glowing
camp-Are, steaming hot tea, and consoling pipes. We had
been wet since morning, and, as a natural consequence, our
feet were swollen and boots shrunken to such an extent that
we despaired of getting them off at all. No plan our ingenu
ity could devise would answer. When all had failed, our
invaluable Yakov came to the rescue, and by the application
of his teeth to the toe of each boot (which were fortunately
long), aided by his hands at the heels, effected his purpose
with surprising ease. Poor fellow ! He would deserve pity
should he find it necessary to have a tooth extracted.
At 8 P.M., thermometer +26° Fahrenheit. November 2d
was equally as cold and the travelling quite as disagreeable
as that of the previous day ; so much so, in fact, as to cause
one to lose complete control of his tongue, since " from the
fullness of the heart the mouth speaketh," or words to that
effect. To add to the disagreeableness of the journey, upon
lassoing and coraling the deer, it was found that through
some mishap Swartz's animal had become badly lamed dur-
K

146 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
ing the night. This, we feared, would seriously impede our
journey unless, through good luck, we should encounter some
Tungusians on Usalghin Bay, and be able to replace the
maimed animal. On this, however, we could not rely with
any certainty.
During the day " Old Man's Head" came into view — a
mountain peak so called by the Okhotsk whalers, and situ
ated on the shore of the Okhotsk Sea. This peak, which at
tains an elevation of nearly 3000 feet, was attired in its fresh
winter garb, and, looming up against the dark heavens be
yond, was surpassingly beautiful, and served greatly to re
lieve the drear monotony ofthe flooded swamp-laud we had
been traversing.
Mikhaeloff, much to his own mortification as well as our
surprise, during the day fired twice at a large male grouse,
missing both times. This ill luck was so at variance with
his usual success as to cause him much anxiety. His super
stitious nature would not allow him to account for it in any
other way than as just retribution for some ill deed. Wheth
er intentional or not, he thought the punishment would have
been the same ; and for some hours he rode or walked mood
ily along, trying to account for the occurrence. At length he
brightened up, having discovered the cause, and exultantly
rode back to explain the matter to us. It was his firm belief
that his ill luck was all occasioned by the fact of his having
shot the head off the last bird he had killed. This super
stitious notion amused us all very much ; but, as he seemed
to derive such evident satisfaction from the solution of the
mystery, we allowed him to enjoy it in ignorance.
As night approached it grew uncomfortably cold. Our
wet feet and legs occasioned us much discomfort, so much
that we were scarcely able to ride. Violent exercise we found
necessary in order to keep up the circulation of our blood.
A half hour before camping Mahood became the victim of
misplaced confidence — in his ability for riding deer. He far
surpassed me in the art, and, in fact, had retained his seat so
well during the journey that he felt encouraged to attempt
a little fancy riding. On this occasion, upon reaching a deep,
narrow stream, and disdaining to dismount, he essayed to
jump his deer across. With unexpected agility, the beast

A WELCOME SNOW-STORM. 147
made a furious bound, springing entirely from beneath the
rider, who fell bodily in the cold stream. Fortunately, good
deer-feed was close at hand; a roaring camp-fire soon restored
him to warmth. By night Swartz's deer, was in a pitiable
condition, scarcely able to walk ; but a careful rubbing with
alcohol appeared to ease it very much. Upon expressing our
fears to Constantine, the proprietor of the beast, that we
might have to kill it, he manifested the greatest indifference,
and only replied that he didn't care, as he had borrowed it
from his son for the journey, and he would lose nothing.
All during the next day we were kept closely housed by a
heavy rain-storm. The application of alcohol had greatly ben
efited the lame deer. We entertained hopes of its recovery
almost entirely by the next morning.
"Nov. 4th. — We were greeted this morning with a sight
that cheered our hearts. The boughs and branches of the
surrounding forest, among which were a number of firs, were
burdened and bent almost to the ground with ponderous
masses of snow, and the ground was clothed in a raiment of
the same material to the depth of eight inches. It seemed
quite strange to awake and find the whole aspect of nature
so suddenly and quietly changed. Our deer, that last night
were easily distinguishable among the black trunks of trees
and dark masses of foliage by their white color, looked yellow
and dingy contrasted with the pure whiteness every other ob
ject had assumed. It may seem strange that these indica
tions of the rapid approach of grim winter should afford us
such satisfaction ; but we had learned by this time to think
any thing would be preferable to the present condition of
traveling. At daybreak, the weather having moderated, a
light drizzling rain began to fall, but at 8 A.M., when it
ceased, we immediately began preparations for our departure,
intending to go at least as far as a river Mikhaeloff said
would have to be bridged, about five versts distant. After
a little more than an hour's travel, all the way through bogs,
we arrived at the stream called by the Tungusians ' Chimcha-
galee.' "
The bogs were slightly crusted over with ice, but we broke
through into the water at every step. The Chimchagalee we
found about twenty feet wide at this point, and quite rapid ;

148 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
but the waters had subsided so that we found a fording-place,
much to our gratification. This stream is also a tributary of
the Amgun. On each bank the traveling was very hard on
account of deep water-holes and fallen trees. Shortly after
fording the stream we were favored with good hard travel
ing for a verst on high ground, but almost immediately de
scended to the swamps again.
The wooded hills on each side as we advanced gradually
approached each other, and by night we hoped to reach the
head ofthe valley. Trees were also more abundant, and of
a larger growth, comprising larch, spruce, and fir. On the
road Swartz shot a cock-grouse, weighing about five and a
half pounds: it was the first we had seen. The head was
black ; neck of a greenish tinge, and the back brown, sprink
led with small gray specks. It had a large fan tail, six or
eight of the upper and shorter feathers of which had a white
band across them near the tip. The upper lid of each eye
was red. We always find these birds upon the ground near
water, but, when startled, they fly up into the nearest trees.
Our Nimrod — Mikhaeloff — invariably takes a deer with him
while hunting, and, by keeping behind it, can approach very
near to his game, which does not take fright at the deer. He
has a favorite animal trained for the purpose. This he also
Uses as a decoy for wild deer.
About 3 P.M. Mikhaeloff came up shivering as if with an
ague-fit, and asked us to camp soon. He had been wet since
morning, and we were afraid he would be sick, so gave him
a large drink of diluted alcohol, and told him to start for the
nearest deer-feed, which we reached in about an hour.
Our camp at night was the most pleasant we had yet had,
being situated on a hill-side in a beautiful wood of fir and
spruce trees : some of the latter were nearly two feet in di
ameter. After clearing off the snow, we pitched our tent,
and covered the ground with a thick layer of green boughs
as usual, by which time tea was ready, and we entered into
the enjoyment of the only luxuries a day's journey affords
us — half a dozen cups of splendid tea, and a good smoke while
supper is preparing. Before retiring we gave Mikhaeloff an
other large drink, which drove away the chills, but he hardly
knew which end he was standing upon afterward. He be-

THE SOLOLO UCAN BARREN. 149
came very devotional, and, falling on his knees before us,
bowed his head several times, Hindoo style, till it touched
the ground, all the time muttering how faithful he intended
to be to us, etc. 7 o'clock AM., +24° Fahrenheit.
The next morning the thermometer indicated +22° Fahren
heit. We succeeded in making an earlier start than usual,
and had just enough swampy travel to make us wet and un
comfortable. After fording two small streams we began the
ascent of a wooded ridge that separates the tributaries of
Orell Lake and the Amoor from those streams emptying into
Usalghin Bay, a place well known to whalers. This ridge
was an old camping spot of Mikhaeloff's, and we passed a
number of Tungusian tent-frames still standing ; these were
built the same as our own. This divide is considered very
good " sable" ground. From the summit we had our first
view of Usalghin Bay, distant about ten miles in a northwest
direction. On the farther side a high mountain range reared
its snowy peaks far into the heavens, backed by heavy black
masses of threatening snow-cloud. From the foot of the
ridge to the sea-shore extended an unbroken moss barren, or
tundra, through which wound the Sololoucan River of the
Tungusians. We had to traverse this barren, facing a cold
northerly wind. Upon nearing the bay our course was
changed to a more westerly one, leading across the Sololou
can and two other streams that empty into it. After travel
ing forty versts, the longest day's journey we had yet made
with deer, just at dark, wet, cold, and worn out — both men
and deer — we came to a forlorn little stream mournfully
winding its way through the barren waste, and camped, hav
ing nothing but our light canvas tent to shelter us from the
cold wind that swept down upon us in squalls from the bay,
scattering large flakes of snow before them. We had met
with an irreparable loss the previous night. Yakov stepped
upon our small Fahrenheit thermometer and broke it ; but,
thanks to the foresight of our friend Captain Belsoif at Nik
olayefsk, we had the large Reaumur left, which, though not
so convenient, answered our purpose.
At 11 o'clock A.M. the next morning, after numerous tum
bles and the hardest kind of travel over the swampy barren,
we arrived at the banks of the Usalghin River at a point

150 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
about five versts above its mouth. On the route we encoun
tered some very curious mud hummocks, quite large, of oval
shape, and rising from three to ten feet above the swamp.
They were crusted over sufficiently strong to support us, but
with half a dozen taps of my staff I penetrated the crust of
one through ; I could find no bottom ; it was filled with very
thin black mud. They were not of very recent formation,
being literally covered with cranberries about the size of
buckshot, upon which dozens of arctic partridges were feed
ing. These birds were very shy, and could hardly be seen
against the snow; however, Swartz got two of them.
The Usalghin is about two hundred yards wide at this
point, and, being too deep to ford, we immediately started
Mikhaeloff and Constantine to its mouth to try and find some
Tungusians or Gilaks, from whom to borrow a boat to enable
us to cross. In the mean time we pitched our tent on the
river's bank. Our morning's journey was over one of the
most dreary, desolate countries I ever beheld. On either
hand extended the vast, treeless, swampy plain, as silent as
death itself. N° signs of life were visible except those af
forded by the presence of our train. But, as we advanced,
sounds reached our ears which, though relieving the awful
silence, only added to the dreary desolation. These increased
in volume until we found ourselves standing upon the banks
of the Usalghin, whose mad waters, aided by the retreating
tide, were rushing furiously onward, winding through the
barren plain, and carrying on its bosom large sheets of ice,
crashing and grating together, and undermining the steep
mud banks. Now and then, tons' weight of this mud would
fall in the seething tide, crushing the thin ice, and causing
the stained waters to boil and foam like a huge caldron.
At 3 P.M. the guides returned and reported having found
no one. Now our only alternative would be to ascend the
stream until we could effect a crossing ; but, it being late in
the day, we decided to remain where we were for the night.
All about our camp were small poles arranged like minia
ture tent-frames, beneath each of which were the remains of
fires. These, our men told us, were erected by a party of
natives to protect their deer from musquitoes in summer.
The deer take shelter in the smoke, the frames being erected

ON THE USALGHIN RIVER. 151
to prevent them from burning themselves. That night we
feasted. Stewed grouse, as tender as chicken, with cranberry
sauce, excellent tea, and rich reindeer-milk, we found none too
good for our palates.
It is very pleasant, after the day's journey is ended, and
one's clothes well dried by the camp-fire, to throw yourself
down carelessly upon your blankets, with a mind unfettered
by considerations of appearances, and to indulge in a good
smoke and chat, while the rich savors of the evening meal
play coquettishly about your sensitive nostrils. How one's
appetite feeds and fattens upon these delicious odors, and
with what relish and gusto he can apply himself to the meal
when ready, only those who have been similarly situated can
realize. But these exquisite moments were dearly bought in
our case. We had to pay the cost of many long, cold, tedious,
damp, and disagreeable hours of travel to arrive at the proper
condition for a full enjoyment of them.
The next day we took a southwest course up the Usalghin
River. After bridging five of its tributaries and making only
twenty versts, night overtook us and we camped. The day
had been quite cold, and our boots and buckskin pants were
frozen stiff. Other than this, there was nothing worth record
ing, except, perhaps, the fact of this having been the first day
the sun had deigned to shine upon us since leaving Niko
layefsk. By 10 A.M. the following morning we again struck the
Usalghin at a point where it did not exceed two hundred feet
in width, though the water was still very deep. Here we re
solved to try and effect a passage, and immediately set at
work to build a raft by lashing logs together with seal-thongs.
By making several trips we conveyed across all our packs,
the swiftness of the current making it necessary each time to
tow the raft some distance up stream before starting ; and
afterward swam the deer. It was a pretty sight to see the
troop crossing in a body, with their fine heads and antlers
raised above the water.
November 9th we crossed the divide between the rivers
emptying into Usalghin Bay and those flowing into the Ul-
ban. The country was of the same nature as that surround
ing the Usalghin — extensive swampy barrens, intersected by

152 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
small streams, and growing a few larch-trees and dwarf pines,
called by the Russians " kedrovnik." The traveling was bet
ter, however, there being fourteen inches of snow on the part
ly frozen swamps.- This was the coldest day we had thus
far experienced, the thermometer indicating —2° Fahrenheit.
Mikhaeloff froze his toes, but not badly. I suffered much less
than previously, having exchanged my leather boots for tor
bassa, which I managed to keep dry.
On the morning ofthe 10th, the spirits in our thermometer
sank to .— 11° Fahrenheit. All day long our noses and. ears
troubled us a little. We saw fresh tracks of wild deer, wolves,
foxes, sable, otters, and hare during the day, but no wild ani
mals except small field-mice ; these appeared perfectly hap
py diving through the soft snow. (
In the afternoon we struck the fresh trail of a band of
Tungusians with deer, evidently a band of hunters, as their
tracks came from a direction little frequented by these peo
ple, Mikhaeloff informed us ; they had gone the direction we
wished to take, so we followed their trail, hoping to overtake
them and to procure fresh deer-meat ; also deerskins to sleep
upon, as our blankets were beginning to prove inadequate to
protect us from the increasing cold. A few versts farther we
reached their camp, which had been vacated that morning,
since smoke still rose from the ashes of their camp-fire ; but,
much to our disappointment, their trail led off our course,
and we thought best to abandon the chase. At night we
camped at the foot of the Ulban Hills, a wooded ridge run
ning north and south.
During the last two or three days our lame deer had been
failing so rapidly as to become useless for the road, and our
supplies being sufficiently reduced to enable us to dispense
with one animal, the guides decided to kill this one for food.
Besides, it could be easily spared, as there was one other deer
in the band trained to riding. We purchased half of the
meat for road use, and the remainder our guides cached for
their return trip, by burying it in the ground, and rolling
heavy logs over the spot to protect the meat from wolves
and foxes. This, however, is not their usual method of cache-
ing. Generally they erect a platform upon the stumps of
four trees, which serve as posts, cut off about eight feet above

REINDEER ON THE ICE. 153
the ground, and then build upon this a small log pen large
enough for these purposes. These deposits are often left for
months without fear of molestation, which speaks well for the
honesty of the people, though a theft could be easily perpe
trated in these wilds without the slightest fear of detection.
Notwithstanding the natives are so scrupulous about molest
ing a cache, they will once in a while rob each other's traps,
we afterward learned, though as a tribe they deserve great
credit for honesty.
The following morning, a verst from camp, we reached the
Ulban River, a stream at this point one hundred feet in width.
During recent high water it had frozen over, and, as the wa
ters subsided, the ice had also settled, leaving a steep icy de
clivity on each bank about ten feet in height. One of these
we had to descend to reach the level of the river, and it was
an amusing sight to see our deer as they slid down and piled
up in a confused mass at the bottom. Once on the smooth
ice they were utterly helpless, wholly unable to retain their
feet. Each one had to be dragged separately by the horns
across to the opposite bank. But then came the difficulty.
How we were to get them up the icy acclivity to the shore
above we could not tell, since with our smooth-bottomed tor
bassa we ourselves were unable to climb up,- much less to
haul up the deer. At length Mikhaeloff conceived the idea
of lassoing an old stump on shore, by which means two or
three of us hauled ourselves up, and, by grasping each other's
hands, the upper one seizing hold of a sapling, we formed a
chain which extended to the bottom. Each deer had then to
be seized hold of and dragged up in turn.
Just after crossing this stream we struck another Tungu
sian trail going our course, so followed it. Having crossed a
large frozen barren, we came upon their vacated camp, situ
ated near the base of an isolated hill, which rose about five
hundred feet above the plain. At this point we were obliged
to take a southwest course to avoid another large stream
which was as yet not sufficiently frozen to admit of our pass
ing it on the ice. Had we reached this barren a few d&ys
earlier, we would have found it nearly impassable on account
of numerous lakes that cover nearly the whole surface. These
were now frozen, and, being covered with a thick coating of

154 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
beautiful frost-work which prevented the deer from slipping,
the traveling was excellent. This frost-work carpet was per
fectly superb in beauty. It consisted of innumerable trans
parent, leaf-like crystals standing on edge, most of them two
inches in height, and sparkling in the brilliant sunlight like a
sea of gems. The jarring produced by the tread of our deer
caused them to break off and fall upon the ice, creating a
sound as of a thousand tiny glass bells. These sounds had a
subdued tone, as if reaching from a long distance, and it was
some moments before I could detect their source.
After traveling about thirty-five versts, we camped in a
freshly-vacated Tungusian encampment on the bank of the
Seran, a small, frozen river. Here we found a meat deposit,
or cache, erected upon four posts, as already described. The
ready-erected tent-frames enabled us to make camp with but
very little difficulty.
The next day, Sunday, November 12th, we passed the, Seran
and two other small streams, still following the trail of our
Tungusian predecessors ; this led us through a pass in the
Jivarack range (so called by our guides), emerging from
which we found ourselves in the valley of the Tugur River,
where we camped, ten miles from Tugur, our first destina
tion.

TUGUR. 155

CHAPTER X.
Approaching Tugur. — History of Tugur. — Early Settlement. — Cossack Ad
venturers. — Tungusian Encampment. — Beauty and Indifference. — Cos
tume. — Manner of Riding. — The Confine. — Tugur. — Disappointment. —
Sable -hunting. — The sole Inhabitant. — Tugur River. — The Hut. — End
of first Journey. — Yakout Settlement. — Hospitable Reception. — The Ya
kouts. — Yakoutsk. — Torbassa. — The Samovar. — A Lily in the Desert. —
Tungusian Starasta. — Bargaining for Deer. — Vassilly and Eoff. — Pur
chasing Clothing and Bedding. — Fresh Beef. — Smoky Tent. — Departure
of Mikhaeloff and Constantine. — A Love Mission. — A big Price. — Court
ship and Marriage among the Tungusians. — Our tipsy Friends. — Off again.
— The Algocan. — Snow-storm. — Weak Eyes. — Our new Deer. — TheMal-
mazine. — Deep Snow and difficult Traveling. — Snow-shoes. ¦ — Yakov's Con
fidence.— Curiosity. — Natives in Distress.— Amusing Scene. — Aria Hills.
— Deep Snow. — Deer-trail. — Gradual Ascent. — Natural Amphitheatre. —
Difficult and dangerous Climb. — Avalanches.-1- Our good Fortune. — A glo
rious View. — The Descent. — Difficulty in Mounting. — Provoking Experi
ence. — Open Camp. — Stampede of Deer. — Poor Eoff! — The Aria.
We were all astir bright and early the next morning, and
so bent upon reaching Tugur that Mahood, Swartz, and my
self, with Constantine, started in advance, without breakfast,
leaving Yakov and Mikhaeloff to come on with the remain
der of the deer and the supplies. The idea of sitting down
to a table with white men, in a house, had destroyed all rel
ish for boiled deer-meat and tea in our tent, so we concluded
to fast until we should reach the station. Tugur, situated
near the mouth of the Tugur River, is a whaling station, .
owned by a company of which Captain Lindholm (whom the
reader will remember we left behind at Nikolayefsk) is one
ofthe principal members. This company carries on the whal
ing business from shore, sending out boats in summer to kill
whales, which they tow ashore to cut up and try the oil out
of. They also catch grampuses for their oil in large seal-
thong nets stretched near the beach. About sixty men were
usually employed about the place, these being mostly Ya
kouts. It was for the journey to this place that we fitted out in
Nikolayefsk, having been assured that we could renew our

156

REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

supplies here. We were also anxious to secure fur bedding
and clothing for the continuance of our journey, as we found
our small stock insufficient.
The Tugur River was one of the first known to the Rus
sians in Eastern Siberia. Here they had a small log fort,
from which they operated against the Chinese on the Amoor
long before the lower part of that river was at all known to
them. How they first reached this point I am unable to say;
but it is known that one Khabarof, a very daring and enter
prising Cossack leader, was at Tugur as early as the year

TUNGUSIAN MAN.

1650. About this time the fort was destroyed by hostile
tribes in the neighborhood, and was rebuilt in 1653 by other
Cossacks, who found their way hither with the hope of en
riching themselves in the fur trade, having heard fabulous
reports concerning the abundance and rare quality ofthe sa
bles and other fur-bearing animals in this vicinity. Records

TUNGUSIANS AT TUGUR.

157

of the early expeditions and discoveries of the Cossacks in
this section are replete with the daring adventures and in
tense sufferings ofthe earliest explorers. It was not an un
common occurrence for whole bands of them to starve to
death, or be massacred by the natives. At times the desire
for gain induced these parties even to wage war with each
other in the very face of the common enemy. Ravenstein,
in his work entitled " The Russians on the Amoor," enters
quite minutely into the details ofthe exploits of these early

TUNGOaiAN WOMAN.

Cossack freebooters. But the object of this journal being to
exhibit the present condition of the country as we found it,
I will continue my narrative.
After going a few versts over a very rough, barren tract,
dotted with small lakes, upon turning a knoll we suddenly
came upon the encampment ofthe Tungusians whom we had

158 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
been following since the previous morning. The party con
sisted of two men and two women, with twelve deer. They
were just starting for Tugur as we came up, so we accompa
nied them. The men were young and better-looking than
our guides, but the women attracted our attention more par
ticularly, as they were the first females of the tribe we had
seen, and one of them was quite pretty. Their round faces,
clear olive complexions, with rosy cheeks and soft black eyes,
appeared quite attractive to us after seeing those filthy Gilaks
on Orell Lake ; and one great charm about them was, that
they had just washed their faces. The pretty one had a real
ly coquettish look, but, in spite of all our efforts to form an
acquaintance or get into a flirtation with her, we could not
provoke a smile or the slightest acknowledgment. She ap
peared wholly indifferent as to our presence, but immediately
made friends with Constantine. "There is no accounting for
taste." Their dress was clean and neat, consisting of a large, com
fortable reindeer-fur coat, pants of the same material coming
down to the knees, very large and loose, and handsome little
fur boots meeting their pants at the knee, and ornamented
with beads at the top. On their heads they wore peculiarly-
shaped fur bonnets bordered with beaver, also ornamented
with beads, besides strips of scarlet cloth. Their long black
hair was carefully parted, and hung down the back in two
braids. Very small deerskin mittens and large silver ear
rings completed their costume. They rode .astride their
deer, which they mounted and managed with praiseworthy
grace and ease.
We soon reached the Contine River, a stream about three
hundred feet wide, and completely frozen up, the ice being a
foot in thickness. This river empties into the Tugur about
a verst above the mouth ofthe latter. Near their junction
is the station. The Tungusians told us on the way that the
station had been deserted, but we were satisfied to the con
trary from Captain Lindholm's statement. We were doomed
to be disappointed, however, for, upon arriving at the small
group of one-story log buildings, not a living creature was
to be seen. The best house— the officers' quarters — we found
locked, and upon the door was tacked a note addressed to

ON THE RIVER TUGUR. 159
Captain Lindholm, saying that, for want of supplies, late in
the fall the party had vacated the place and gone to Mamga.
Mamga was another whaling station about one hundred versts
farther up the coast, and had been formerly occupied by the
Russian-American Company.
This condition of affairs was not only disappointing, but a
little alarming, as we were about fifteen days' journey from
our next destination, Algasee, near the mouth of the Onda
Uiver, and we feared that our supplies would not hold out.
Fortunately, we had brought a surplus of many of the arti
cles. Tugur was also the place to which Mikhaeloff and
Constantine had agreed to carry us, and by no inducements
could we prevail upon them to go farther, as they were anx
ious to return to their homes to hunt sables. The commence
ment of winter is the best time for sable-hunting, and, had we
forced them to carry us to Algasee, more than a month would
have elapsed before they could have returned even to this
place, thereby losing the best hunting season.
In a little hut near the station we found an old blind Tun
gusian woman bending over a few embers in a rude fireplace,
the very picture of desolation. The sound of our voices ap
peared to be most welcome to her. She was not contented
until she had shaken hands with each One of us, at the same
time repeating, in a prolonged singing tone, " Isdrastvitchie,"
the Russian salutation. (I will not vouch for the proper spell
ing of that word.) She remained alone daytimes only, she
informed us, the place being left in charge of her son, who
lived with her.
From her we learned that a hut was standing on the oppo
site side of the Tugur, four or five versts off, where an em
ploye of the Company lived, and took care of a few cows be
longing to the Company. After bidding the old woman good-
by, we started on for that place, guided by the Tungusians,
first sending Constantine back to direct Mikhaeloff with the
deer. We found some difficulty in recrossing the Contiue on ac
count of the tide, which had come in while we were talking
with the old woman, and had raised the ice with it, leavino-
water channels on each side. The Tugur was a fine large
stream, nearly half a mile wide where we struck it, but was

160 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
almost impassable, since the ice had all been broken up and
jammed together into every conceivable shape by the tides,
and then refrozen, forming a chaotic mass of jumbled-up
hummocks and blocks, over which we had to get our deer in
the best manner we could.
By the time we reached the miserable low hut, the doors
of which were so small that we had to bend nearly double in
entering, we were fully prepared to enjoy a little nourish
ment, having eaten nothing since the night before. Fresh
venison steaks, with plenty of milk, supplied our bodily
wants, while the information that there was a settlement of
Yakouts a few versts off, from whom we could procure plen
ty of fur clothing, meat, and bedding, revived our spirits,
which were rather depressed from the disappointment we
had sustained. We also learned that the Tungusian " sta-
rasta," or head man of this district, was living in the same
settlement, so no longer anticipated any trouble in obtaining
fresh deer to carry us to Algasee, being provided, too, as we_
were, with documents from the governor at Nikolayefsk,
which would have great weight with the old chief. Even
our deer seemed to realize that their journey was ended, for,
when we mounted them after our repast to go to this settle
ment, they started off on a brisk trot along the well-beaten
trail,- which pace they kept up until we arrived at the place.
It was the first time we had ever ridden faster than a walk
with the animals.
Upon arriving at the settlement, about fifty persons — men,
women, and children — rushed from the log huts to meet us.
They were nearly all Yakouts, and, though dressed much like
the Tungusians, could be readily distinguished from the lat
ter by the regularity of their features and the greater intel
ligence expressed in their countenances. They all have the
prominent cheek-bones of the Tartar.
The Yakouts inhabit that large extent of country lying in
the interior west of the town of Okhotsk, and on the Lena
River, where is a city called Yakoutsk, of about 15,000 inhab
itants, the greater part of whom are Yakouts. This city was
founded in the year 1632 by the Russians, and has ever since
been one of the most prominent Russian towns in Eastern
Siberia. It contains a number of good buildings, and is the

THE YAKOUTS. 161
centre of a very large trade in furs, for which nearly all do
mestic articles are given in exchange. It is the principal em
porium of this whole section, and is connected by government
post-roads with Irkoutsk, the capital of Eastern Siberia ; Co-
lema, on or near the Arctic ; Ajan and Okhotsk, and, by way
of the latter, with all of Kamtchatka. Most of the Yakouts,
from constant intercourse with the Russians, speak the Rus
sian language, and have adopted their manners, customs, and
religion. Their dress is peculiar to themselves, being a mixture of
that worn by the humbler Russians and the skin garments
of the wilder tribes. This comprises a large gray cloth over
coat made after the Russian pattern, well-tanned buckskin
pants, and torbassa, or boots, also of heavy buckskin, beauti
fully tanned without the fur, of neat design, and tastefully
ornamented. The latter are made to fit the foot snugly, and
at the toe arch over the foot like the bow of a skate. The
legs are large and comfortable, except at the ankle, and reach
to the knee, the tops folding down on the outside for several
inches, and bordered with a wide band of black or colored
cloth. A welt of this cloth is also sewed in all the seams.
At the ankle two very long and broad strips of buckskin are
fastened, to be wound snugly around the leg, half way up to
the knee, as a support. These give a very trim appearance
to the boot. The Yakouts have. small feet, and take especial
pride in being well booted.
The Yakouts are a very quiet, inoffensive people, indus
trious, ingenious, and gifted with a natural business tact.
They might, with propriety, be called the Yankees of Sibe
ria. It is not uncommon to meet them in the most isolated
regions with long trains of deer laden with trinkets of all
kinds, which they peddle out to the nomadic tribes in ex
change for pelts.
They are neat both with regard to person and habitations,
more so than any other of the eastern tribes of Siberia, and
are very domestically inclined. Horses and cows are their
constant companions. Those whom we saw at the settle
ment near Tugur had been formerly in the employ of the
Russian- American Fur Company in Ajan, and were afterward
brought to this place by Captain Lindholm. Among them
L

162 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
were a number whom Swartz had previously known at Ajan,
so our reception was most cordial.
According to Russian custom, the samovar was immedi
ately produced, and excellent hot tea served, but our hosts
refused to partake until we had finished, notwithstanding
oft-repeated requests on our part that they should do so.
In the midst of the roomful of dark-skinned visitors we re
ceived during our short stay at the settlement, our astonish
ment was great at finding one of the most beautiful little
blonde girls any of us had ever seen. Her fair complexion
and long sunny hair showed in strange contrast with those
of her little dark companions, yet she herself appeared wholly
unconscious of the dissimilarity, and was as happy and con
tented as the rest of them. Upon inquiry, we learned that
her parents, who were Russian, were both dead, and that
these kind people had adopted her.
We at once sent for the Tungusian starasta to try and
make arrangements to procure deer for our farther journey,
and, had it not been for letters and the Cossack we had
brought with us, would probably have failed altogether ; but
these powerful allies convinced the old man of the import
ance of aiding us, and, after a long parlance, in which he ex
hibited all the characteristics of a close-fisted, money-loving
human, we obtained from him the promise of eight deer for
the road. The remainder he afterward procured from Vas-
silly and Eoff, the two Tungusian hunters we had overtaken
on the road, who were to accompany us as guides, and to care
for the deer. We availed ourselves of this opportunity of
replenishing our supply of clothing, and, having ordered each
a pair of buckskin pants, torbassa of Yakout make, and robes
of rabbit-skin for lining our blankets, we departed for our
tent, which had been pitched near the small hut we visited
in the morning after leaving Tugur Station. We were also
fortunate in obtaining thirty-six pounds of fresh beef for road
use, and were therefore confident of having enough provision
to carry us to the home of Solavaoff, the Yakout cattle-mer
chant who was expected at Nikolayefsk about the time of
our departure from that place. His house is situated upon
the Aria River, about one week's journey distant from Tugur.
From him we would have no difficulty in procuring fresh

TUNGUSIAN MATRIMONIALS. 163
meat enough to last us to Algasee, though we might have to
dispense with tea, sugar, and other luxuries with which we
had been provided thus far.
During the following day we remained in camp repacking
our loads for making a fresh start, and waiting for the com
pletion of the garments we had ordered from the Yakouts.
The day was snowy, and, to add to the disagreeableness of
our position, our tent smoked badly, so much so as to cause
us all to suffer much from inflammation of the eyes.
Notwithstanding their anxiety to return home and com
mence hunting for sable, Mikhaeloff and Constantine depart
ed reluctantly. They, however, felt fully repaid for their
trouble and delay by the letters we furnished them to the
governor, upon the strength of which they entertained strong
hopes of being rewarded with swords and medals. How far
their anticipations were afterward realized we never had an
opportunity of ascertaining.
Vassilly and Eoff, our new guides, were younger, more act
ive, and more diffident than the former ones, and, being but
little acquainted with the Russian language, we experienced
some difficulty in conversing with them. The former, Vassil
ly, gladly accompanied us, being actuated by motives that
often impel young men in our own country. His was in re
ality a love mission, as he had not long previously purchased
a bride, and the journey we proposed making being also the
one he wished to take, he gladly availed himself of the oppor
tunity of accompanying us, in order to have the solemn cere
mony performed. His intended was a daughter of one of the
golovas of grand chiefs of the tribe — a fair lass who com
manded the exorbitant price of eighty reindeer. This is con
sidered a good fortune among these people, who deem them
selves well off if they possess ten or a dozen of these animals.
Owing to their scarcity, a deer trained to riding is worth in
this region from forty-five to sixty roubles, and a pack-deer
about thirty-five roubles, which last is equivalent to about
twenty-six dollars.
This custom of buying and selling wives, according to the
Tungusian custom, is a better institution than would appear
at first sight. It is designed to prevent young men from
marrying before they are able to support their wives as the

164 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
parents think her station demands ; besides, if the suitor is
objectionable, it is so very simple to prevent the match by
demanding a price beyond the means of the disconsolate
lover. Upon the day of marriage, it is customary for the
parents to present the bride with an equal number of deer as
was paid for her, together with a good tent made of deer
skins, and all the necessary household utensils for a good
start in life ; so that, in reality, nothing is lost to the husband
by the purchase other than a transfer of his chattels to his
wife. Daughters are valued according to the wealth and
standing of their parents. In this locality they range from
eighty deer down to one and two, though I heard of one who
was purchased for a plug of tobacco. The ceremony is usu
ally performed according to the Russian rites by a priest of
the Greek Church, and it is not an uncommon occurrence for
parties to travel seven or eight hundred miles through the
wilderness for the purpose.
November 1 5th. — In the morning our thermometer indi
cated — 10° Fahrenheit.
While making our final preparations to depart, all the in
habitants of the Yakout settlement assembled at our tent and
commenced a systematic begging proceeding, each asking
for some of every thing we had ; but their preferences were
for tea and alcohol, or vodki, as they called it. The former
we had to refuse to them altogether, though the latter was
liberally distributed to men, women, and children, as all im
bibe, and not many minutes, elapsed before the whole com
munity were in a condition of delectable uncertainty and in
difference. At length all was in readiness, and we once more
mounted our deer and moved on our way amid the parting
"prostchis" of our tipsy friends.
Our route led down the left bank of the Tugur River, over
a slightly rolling country, well wooded with larch, spruce,
and fir. Upon reaching the sea-shore, about five versts from
camp, we followed the beach in a westerly direction until pre
vented from going farther by high cliffs,'they being the ab
rupt terminations of mountain spurs running down to the
bay. A few versts from the mouth of the Tugur we found
it necessary to cross a small river one hundred feet in width,
called Algocan by Eoff, our guide. The ice in this stream

TOWARD THE ARLA HILLS. 165
had been loosed from shore and broken up by recent tides,
consequently we experienced some difficulty and delay in ef
fecting a crossing : this was accomplished only after building
two bridges of driftwood, suitable for our deer to cross upon,
and leading from each shore to the drift-ice in the middle of
the stream.
Meanwhile a strong northerly wind set in, sweeping down
the bay directly in our faces, and carrying before it a severe
snow-storm, which continued without cessation until late at
night. The small, driving icy particles, dashing into our in
flamed eyes, were the source of much pain, and for the time
being nearly blinded us. Upon striking the cliffs we were
compelled to make a detour inland a few versts, but again
joined the coast just at dark, and camped near the mouth of
a small river emptying into Tugur Bay, known as the Ami-
kan. We were highly delighted with our new deer. They so
far excelled in activity and vivacity our last ones, that it was
hard to realize the fact of their being of the same species.
My own, though uncommonly small, was altogether too viva
cious to admit of my indulging for a moment in any feelings
of security. Several times I was dismounted without being
consulted as to the best manner of performing that feat. Our
blankets, lined with hareskins, and deerskin sleeping-bags to
crawl into, made camping out in our light tent much more
comfortable than it had been previously.
The following day we left the bay behind us, and took a
northwest course toward the Aria Hills, over a wooded, hilly
country for about twenty versts, when we struck a stream
about one hundred feet wide, called by our guides the Mal-
mazine. This night we camped on the Malmazine, also the fol
lowing one, pitching our tent on the night ofthe 17th of No
vember near the foot of the Aria Hills. We found traveling
very difficult, owing to the depth of snow, which lay two and
a half feet deep all over the ground. Through this our deer
had to flounder all day long, breaking a path for themselves,
consequently our progress was very slow. The whole coun
try was densely wooded with small larch and spruce, and
upon the banks of the stream we saw many willows and pop
lars. These last were generally bent to the ground by the

166 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
accumulated masses of snow on their branches, and grew
so thickly that in places we found it necessary to beat the
snow from their branches and allow them to spring back to
upright positions in order that our train might proceed.
The Malmazine flows east through a narrow valley, bor
dered by ranges of wooded hills — spurs from the Aria ridge,
and empties into Tugur Bay. The Aria Hills, over which
our route lay, attains an elevation of about 4000 feet. As we
continued to approach them, the snow increased so rapidly in
depth as to afford a very serious obstacle to our progress.
We sadly felt the need of snow-shoes for breaking a path
through it, but as yet were unprovided with them. However,
after camping, Eoff chopped down a tree, and set at work
with his hatchet making a rude pair for the purpose of break
ing a trail over the mountains. The Tungusian snow-shoes
are entirely different from those used by the Canadians ; they
are entirely of wood, about five feet long, and ten inches
wide, hewn very thin, and bent up at the toe. When com
pleted, they are soled with sealskin, or skin from the legs of
the deer or horse, with the hair on, which makes them glide
forward easily, and prevents their slipping backward while
making an ascent. On this occasion we had to content our
selves with merely the wooden shoe, having neither the skins
nor glue for soling them.
By this time Yakov, our Cossack, had learned to place the
most implicit confidence in our good judgment and taste, par
ticularly as regarded edibles. From time to time, as we pro
duced some little delicacy from our small supply of extras,
he was always ready to partake of them without previously
asking any questions. Curiosity probably prompted him in
many cases, however.
This evening we decided to prepare a little mustard to be
eaten with our boiled beef. The Cossack had never seen the
article before, and manifested the greatest curiosity both in
the preparation and disposition of it. He was evidently
eagerly waiting for us to finish eating.
While quietly and comfortably enjoying our after-dinner
pipes, we were suddenly startled by a most dismal howl, fol
lowed by a fearful commotion among Yakov and the Tungu
sians; the former lay with his face to the snow, his mouth

REINDEER PATHS. 167
covered with both hands, and blowing as if trying to rid him
self of all his teeth, while the natives were moaning and
bouncing about like madmen. We easily guessed the cause.
Each, eager to secure his share of the unknown delicacy, had
swallowed a large spoonful of it without first testing its
strength. After that they became very wary of all unfamil
iar edibles.
The morning ofthe 18th of November was clear and quite
cold, —18° Fahrenheit.
To facilitate traveling, Eoff started in advance on the snow-
shoes with his portion of the train, to break a trail, while the
rest of us were striking tent. At this point the Malmazine
had dwindled down to a mere brook, up which we traveled
to its very source, winding through a deep, narrow gorge,
wooded with scraggy firs. Upon either hand the high, bald
peaks of the range towered above us, their bare faces un
broken by a single object to relieve the glaring whiteness.
The snow had become so deep that even the snow-shoes
were of little avail. Riding was generally impossible, and
we had to flounder through the path made by the deer. This
was much more difficult than would seem, as these animals
take long steps, and, in traveling through deep snow, invaria
bly step in the tracks of the leading animal. After a train
of them passes by, their route is indicated by a continued se
ries of deep holes, about thirty inches apart, and each one not
more than six inches in diameter. The easiest way to travel
one of these paths is to try to step from one hole to the other ;
but the dividing ridges of snow lying between each necessi
tate very high and long strides, and the holes are too small
to accommodate one's foot with comfort, which makes walk
ing very laborious. The ascent through the gorge was so
gradual that we did not realize the altitude we had attained
until, upon looking back, the whole country we had traversed
during the past three days lay spread out before us like a
chart. At the head of the gorge we found ourselves in a grand
natural amphitheatre of bald mountains. Glancing upward,
about fifteen hundred feet above us, we could barely distin
guish a line of very small dark objects apparently just crawl
ing over the snow ; they were too far distant for us to make

168 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
out their forms, but we at once guessed them to be Eoff and
his deer. Tired as we already were, this climb before us was
rather appalling.
Now that we had got above the wooded level, we found
traveling much better for our deer. The snow upon the
mountain sides, from exposure to winds, was closely and firm
ly packed, as solid as the ground itself, but so slippery that
we could hardly retain a foothold with our smooth-bottomed
torbassa. If once well started downward, we knew there
would be no stopping until we had gained the bottom of the
gulch below, and several times we found it necessary to lie
flat upon the snow, and cling with both hands and feet to the
slight inequalities in the surface. Now and then, as we as
cended, for long distances the hard surface of the snow would
be literally torn to pieces, and, glancing toward the foot of
the mountain along the ragged furrow, we could see vast ac
cumulated masses of snow, boulders, and debris deposited by
avalanches. With all these indications of the power of the elements
and the dangers that would sometimes beset the traveler in
crossing this range, we felt truly grateful for the calm and
beautiful day with which we were favored. A slight wind
would have made the passage impracticable, and, had we been
overtaken by one ofthe fearful poorgas, or gales, that at times
sweep over these latitudes, certain death would have ensued.
Had we not been blown from the mountain sides, as some
times happens, we would certainly have become scattered
and lost in the driving clouds of snow particles, and per
ished from exhaustion and cold.
At no time during the day was the temperature above
zero. Notwithstanding this degree of cold, the violent and
continuous exercise of climbing caused perspiration to flow
freely, but, the moment we stopped to catch breath, the moist
ure upon our faces and in our clothing began to stiffen.
Upon reaching the summit a glorious view met our gaze,
which fully repaid us for the climb. In the far distance lay
Tugur Bay, gleaming like a mirror, and backed by a range
of lofty mountains clad in snow. The intervening country,
which presented so many irregularities to us while travers
ing it, now appeared as level as a floor, and presented to

REINDEER-RIDING. 169
view a vast area of dingy-looking country, clothed in a con
fused mingling of black and white, occasioned by patches of
snow and woodland. For many hundred feet above us, on
all sides, yet towered isolated bald peaks, whose magnitude
we could form no conception of, for want of some object
upon their sides with which to contrast them. Upon the
western slope of the range we encountered trees nearly at
the summit, and the snow was very soft, being upward of
seven feet in depth.
The descent was so gradual that we decided to ride down.
But now a serious difficulty presented itself — how were we
to mount ? The snow was so deep and soft that our staffs
were no assistance to us whatever. At length the Tungu
sians lifted us each bodily into the saddle, and, mounting
their own deer, which they were enabled to do from long-
practice, we commenced the descent down a ravine in which
the River Aria takes its rise.
To this day I can not look back to that descent without
experiencing some feelings of conscientious remorse ; yet, if
I should again have to endure the annoyances of that trip, I
doubt whether I would not be guilty of the same improprie
ties. My deer was a very spirited little animal, but labored
under the disadvantage of having very short legs, conse
quently was unable to keep up with the rest of the train
while plodding through the deep snow. Not many minutes
elapsed before we were left in the lurch. This much fretted
the little fellow, and caused him to make strenuous efforts to
catch up.
In his eagerness to get ahead, he did not step high enough
to clear the ridges of snow between the deep tracks, and the
next moment fell forward, thrusting his head, into one of the
deep holes, and plunging mine into the next. This I had be
come accustomed to ; but the train was so far ahead I could
no longer get the assistance of the natives in mounting, and
was consequently obliged to stumble forward on foot, which,
wearied as I was, was far from pleasant. After proceeding
nearly a mile, we came to a small sapling near the trail, by
climbing which I managed, after several fruitless efforts, to
remount. By this time the train was out of sight, and my
deer had become nearly frantic at being left alone; it was

170 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
impossible to restrain him. We had hardly gone two hun
dred yards when both again fell, and another long walk suc
ceeded. After climbing three more trees, and falling off immediate
ly after each, in the course of an hour I overtook the train,
which had been waiting for us. My patience was completely
gone. What I said I don't know, but I am conscious of hav
ing muttered something very fluently all the way down the
mountain. At any rate, should any one be desirous of be
coming proficient in the use of words and phrases suitable
only for such occasions, I most heartily recommend a winter
trip across the Aria Hills with a short-legged deer.
We continued down the gorge until dark with the hope
of finding less snow, tha't our deer might be able to paw their
food up from the ground, but at length, from exhaustion, we
were forced to camp. We did not even pitch the tent. For
want of other food for the deer, we cut down a number of
trees, that they might obtain the moss from the branches.
This tree-moss will only sustain deer a few days, but, in the
absence of the other, they will generally eat it.
We were hardly well asleep when shouts near camp awak
ened us, and, upon glancing around, found both the natives
missing. Soon Vassilly rushed into camp saying that the deer
had all gone back over the Aria Hills in search of food, and
that Eoff had started after them on snow-shoes. We pitied
the poor fellow, after his hard day's journey, but there was
no help for it. He did not get back to camp until 6 A.M.
the next morning. Upon awaking, our beards, hair, and fur
hoods were all cemented together by ice formed by our breath
freezing. The two following days we kept down the Aria River,
which flows in a northerly direction. As we advanced the
snow diminished to a depth of eighteen inches, the gorge
widened into an extensive valley, and the brook Aria be
came quite a respectable, river, about three hundred feet in
width.

FISHING ON THE ARLA. 171

CHAPTER XL
Approaching Solavaoff's.— Valley of the Aria.— Sougyol River.— Tungusian
Fishermen and Fish-traps. — The Settlement. — Cattle-raising. — Distinc
tion. — Valuable Service and Reward. — Yakout Yourt. — Windows. —
Chual. — Penates and Samovar. — Meeting old Friends. — Filth, Destitu
tion, and Industry.— The Belle of the Village.— A trying Ordeal.— Es
cape from the Dilemma. — Additional Annoyances. — Departure. — Torum
River.- — Tungusian Grave. — Wolf-tracks. — Necessary Precautions. — Sibe
rian Wolves. — Habits. — Mode of Capture. — The Wolf-pen. — Disagreeable
Proximity ofthe Animals.— Tela Hills.— Prospect. — Elbow and Shantar
Islands. — First View of the Juygur Mountains. — Forest Trees.— Great
and Small Tela Rivers. — Journey by Moonlight. — Crooked Trails. — Uda
River. — Algasee. — Our Reception. — Old Guilioff. — A hideous Object. —
Horses as Food. — Dainty Portions. — Meeting of Yakov and Guilioff. —
John Brown among the Tungusians. — Swartz's Adventure. — At Sea on
the Ice. — Imminent Danger. — Hunger and Thirst. — Mental Agony. —
Providential Escape. — Feeding Dogs for the Journey.
Just before camping at night of the 20th of November,
we struck a fresh trail, and, as it led toward our destination,
Solavaoff's yourt, we did not deem it necessary to send one
of our guides in advance to break a road on the morning of
the 21st, as had been our practice since first striking deep
snow. Solavaoff himself we did not expect to find at home,
as he was daily expected in Nikolayefsk at the time of our
departure from that place ; but, as our supplies were nearly
exhausted, we were anxious to procure fresh meat from some
of his people. Our course was northerly, up the valley of the
Aria River toward its mouth. At this point the valley is
about ten miles wide, mostly barren, dotted here and there
with clusters of larch-trees.
Fifteen versts from camp we struck the junction of the
Aria and Sougyol rivers. To reach Mamga, the whaling
station on Tugur Bay, where Captain Lindholm's party were
now living, it is customary to ascend the Sougyol and cross
the Aria Hills at its head.
Ten versts below the junction we came upon a party of
Tungusians fishing through the ice of Aria River. For the

172

REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES

purpose they made use of a long, funnel-shaped basket or
trap, made of willow switches woven together. This kind
of trap I afterward found in use among nearly all the tribes
from the Amoor to the Arctic. A brush fence is first con
structed across the bed of the river beneath the ice, narrow
passages being left at intervals for fish to swim through.
Into these passages the traps are lowered and anchored.
The baskets are so arranged that, in entering them, the fish
have to pass through a narrow funnel ; and once in, he is un
able to find his way out again. The ice about the trap was
strewn with fish of several varieties, the proceeds of the
morning's catch.

FISH-TEAP.

Following a well-beaten trail leading from the fish-traps,
in a quarter of an hour we arrived at Solavaoff's, a group of
huts erected in a fine grove of larch-trees. Upon all sides,
jutting from the snow, were large stacks of hay, which pro
claimed the region to be well adapted to cattle-raising. This
was the business in which the Yakout proprietor was en
gaged, the towns on the Amoor, though some distance off,
affording a ready market for his beef. We.were somewhat
surprised at finding the Yakout at home, knowiilg that great
dependence had been placed upon his going to Nikolayefsk
with cattle.
Upon learning from us that his arrival had been eagerly

SOLAVAOFF'S YOURT. 173
looked for, the poor fellow manifested considerable alarm, as
it was now too late to fulfill the promise he had made to the
authorities. Among the natives Solavaoff is regarded as a
great man. During the war with the Allies, while the Rus
sian troops on the Amoor were greatly in need of provisions,
he drove a large herd of cattle all the way from Yakoutski
to that point, and disposed of them to government at a very
low figure. The Czar, hearing of his generosity, as a reward
for his services sent him a large coat, profusely decorated
with gold and silver lace and fringe. The garment was cer
tainly a gorgeous affair, but the tailor had evidently not
taken the wearer's measurement, he being very small and
the coat enormous. This was immaterial, however, as the
coat was kept carefully, locked up, and only aired on great
occasions, and we were hardly seated before the garment
was produced for our inspection.
The storehouses and stables about the settlement were
ordinary log buildings, but the inhabited yourts more re
sembled mounds of clay on the exterior than dwellings.
Solavaoff immediately conducted us to his yourt upon dis
mounting from our deer. We entered by a small leaning
door lined with deerskins into an apartment about twenty
feet square. After the usual plan of the Yakouts, the house
was built of small split logs standing upon end instead of ly
ing horizontally and sloping inward toward the top like the
sides of a Mississippi River iron-clad. It was also roofed
with split logs, supported by heavy posts, and the whole
banked, over on the outside with clay for warmth. Two
small apertures a foot or two square, in each wall, admitted
light. Some of these were glazed with fragments of glass
obtained from whalers, but, for the most part, translucent
fish-skins sewed together, or cakes of transparent ice, served
as a substitute. These last are secured in place by a mix
ture of snow and water used as mortar, which freezes upon
application, and remains perfectly solid during the long, cold
winters. Ice windows will often last for months. The tem
perature inside the hut during the daytime is rarely warm
enough to thaw them, and at night a stuffed deerskin pillow
is thrust into each aperture as a protection from the hot
breath of the numerous sleepers inside.

174

REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

The feature of a Yakout yourt is the chual, or fireplace.
This stands in one corner, out from the walls of the apart
ment, facing diagonally across the room. The chimney and
fireplace are all one, built of long light poles bound together
with wisps in the proper shape, and then plastered over with
several layers of clay, each layer being carefully baked and
hardened before a fresh one is applied. They are broad and
concave, so that the heat and light are reflected to all parts
of the room, and, besides, are so massive as to retain warmth
for many hours.

INTERIOR OF A YAKOUT YOURT.

Upon three sides of the room were ranged a single tier of
bunks, serving as seats during the day, as well as beds at
night. Those inseparables of a Russian habitation, the pe-
nates and samovar, attracted our attention at once upon en
tering, and gave the place an air of civilization ; but imagine
our surprise, and the associations they revived, when a large
dish of old-fashioned, steaming-hot griddle cakes, with an
abundance of fresh milk and delicious tea, were arranged be
fore us to appease our day-old appetites.
In addition to Solavaoff's yourt, there were several others
in the settlement built after the same style, though much
smaller. The occupants of these — a mixture of Yakouts and
Tungusians — we found in a deplorable condition of filth and

A TUNGUSIAN BELLE— NIGHT ADVENTURE. 175
destitution, though in each case they were industriously em
ployed sewing on skin garments, or manufacturing sleds or
snow-shoes. They had formerly been employed by the Rus
sian-American Fur Company, but, since that company had
discontinued their whale-hunting in the Okhotsk Sea, the na
tives had undergone many privations. Wherever we went,
they importuned us for tea and other food, but we were com
pelled to deny them. Upon learning, however, the object of
our journey, and the probability of their being able to obtain
employment in the construction of the telegraph line, they
manifested great delight, and became anxious for the work
to commence.
As we entered one of the huts, our attention was directed
to a Tungusian lass, upon whose coffee-colored brow about
eighteen winters had left their impress, and whose slight and
graceful figure, and large, gazelle-like eyes, proclaimed her to
be the belle of the community. Her features were quite reg
ular, and, no doubt, she had a beautiful complexion ; but, to
judge of the latter with any certainty, we found that it
would be necessary first to subject her to a parboiling pro
cess, and then to give her a thorough scraping. To this
young lady I was afterward indebted for being subjected to
one of the most trying ordeals that it was ever the misfor
tune of a modest young man to pass through.
It was that first night at Solavaoff's, and the floor of the
yourt was literally strewn with piles of deerskins covering
the prostrate forms of the sleeping natives. My companions
had already retired to the bunks allotted them, while I sat at
a small wooden table writing up my journal of the day's
events. It was a curious sight to see all ages, sizes, and
sexes strewn promiscuously about the room, and, not being
accustomed to such a state of affairs, I naturally waited until
all should be asleep before commencing my preparations to
retire. At length the whole apartment resounded with the
snores and snorts of the household, and, quietly laying aside
my journal, I began noiselessly to undress. But horror ! my
coat was hardly off, when, happening to glance toward the
floor, I beheld the large, soft black eyes of the " belle" peer
ing at me from beneath an enormous pile of deerskins.
This was more than I could endure ; so I filled my pipe

176 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
and proceeded to have a smoke, hoping that she would soon
tire of her inspection and go to sleep, that I might renew my
disrobing process ; but no such good fortune was in store for
me. Minutes passed as hours, and my eyelids weighed like
lead. Now and then I cautiously glanced downward, but
there they shone as brightly as ever, with no indications of
weariness. I filled my pipe again and tried to smoke, but,
sitting in my shirt-sleeves, I soon became chilly, and, in addi
tion to my mental agony, my teeth began to rattle like a
quartz mill. At length I could endure it no longer, and was
forced to retreat ignominiously to my blankets, and there,
shielded from her view by a double thickness of hareskins, to
divest myself of the remainder of my outer clothing lying
flat upon my back.
But my troubles were not ended with this. Just as I was
dropping asleep, an old Yakout woman, lying in the middle
of the floor, got the hiccoughs, which she kept up for two
hours at least ; and a Tungusian boy, with his head under my
bunk, sang all night in his sleep, keeping up a kind of hum
ming, buzzing sound, like a horse-fly on a warm day, occasion
ally throwing in a whining tone. These sounds, with the
snoring, saw-filing, wood-sawing, and puffing snores of a dozen
other natives, made Bedlam a fit subject of all my dreams
that night. The room was closed up like an oven also, and
by midnight the atmosphere of the place was not most de
sirable for breathing.
It had been snowing since our arrival at Solavaoff's, but
on the morning of the 22d of November we were greeted
with a clear, beautiful day, though a cold westerly wind was
blowing. After procuring two "pouds" (twelve English
pounds) of beef, we once more mounted our deer and started
off, taking a- westerly course for a range of wooded hills run
ning up to Oudskoi Bay. This range separates the valley of
the Aria and To rum Rivers from that of the Tela.
Our route lay over a large barren, on which was little
snow, so that the traveling was very good. We crossed the
Torum River near its mouth, over very rough, hummocky ice,
and continued along the shore of Oudskoi Bay, passing a Tun
gusian grave surmounted with a rude cross, and camped after
dark in a grove of larch-trees. We saw large numbers of

WOLVES. 177
wolf-tracks on all sides, and, after allowing our deer to feed
a while, found it advisable to tie them up near the camp-fire,
to keep them from being devoured during the night by
wolves. These wolves are very large, but rarely attack men.
At this season of the year they generally prowl about the
sea-shore, subsisting upon seals and the carcasses of whales
that occasionally drift ashore. Owing to their extreme shy
ness and the difficulty of capturing them, their hides are high
ly prized by the natives, who use them for bordering the
hoods of their kuklankers, as a protection from strong winds
and driving snow.
The common way of catching them is with poisoned bait,
strychnine being generally used for the purpose ; this the na
tives obtain in trade from the Russians. Another method
of catching them is by means of a double circular pen, or
rather two pens, about ten feet high, the one inclosed within
the other, and having a narrow passage-way between, extend
ing round the inner inclosure. Into this inner inclosure is
lowered a deer from the top — there being no side entrance —
the scent of which attracts the wolves. In the outer palisade
or wall is a small door opening inward just wide enough for
the wolf to enter, the narrowness ofthe passage-way prevent
ing its opening wider. Once enticed into this passage by the
scent of the deer, owing to its narrowness, the wolf is unable
to turn about, and continues on around until he again reach
es the door, which, being left open, obstructs his farther prog
ress. To advance, he closes the door, thereby becoming his
own captor, and is afterward shot or speared from the top of
the pen.
During the night we kept large fires burning about our
camp to keep the beasts away from our deer, which were tied
up close to our tent. After retiring, we were frequently
awakened by the long, dismal, and disagreeable howling of
' the hungry animals. One howl, which was immediately an
swered by half a dozen others in different directions, seemed
so unpleasantly near to our tent that I felt disposed to doubt
their cowardliness. The next morning numbers of fresh
tracks were seen within a hundred yards of our camp. Vas-
silly informed us that, when pursued by these wolves, if a
coat or any garment fastened by a string to the sled is
M

178 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
allowed to trail behind, the animals will not pass ahead
of it.
About noon we reached the summit ofthe Tela Hills, having
climbed through a steep gorge, thickly wooded with spruce-
trees, and nearly filled with snow. The view from the sum
mit was superb, though desolate in the extreme. On our
right lay the valley of the Aria, patched with white barrens,
through which that river and the Torum winds to the sea ;
and on our left lay the Tela valley, extending to the Uda
River far to the west. Looking over the valley of the Aria,
far out at sea, we beheld Elbow Island of the whalers, and
the Shantarski group, while to the northwest lay Oudskoi
Bay, bounded on the farther side by the high, ragged, snow-
covered peaks of the great Stanovoi or Juggur range.
This range we could trace for upward of a hundred miles
along the western coast of the Okhotsk Sea. These were the
dreaded mountains we were to explore, and from which, our
Nikolayefsk friends predicted, we would never emerge if we
once ventured into their mazy, intricate depths. They did
not appear very inviting at this our first sight of them.
But a few moments were consumed in making the descent
to the plain west of the hills. This plain extends westward
to the Uda River, and is quite thickly wooded the whole dis
tance, mostly with larch, though we saw quantities of pop
lar, birches, alders, and willows ; the poplars were generally
tali and straight, and grew to very good size : of these the
Tungusians build " dug-out" canoes for summer navigation.
During the day we crossed two rivers that empty into Oud
skoi Bay, and are known among the Russians as the Great
and Small Tela Rivers ; neither of these exceed two hundred
feet in width. The smooth ice on their surface made it nec
essary for us to drag our deer across singly, which occasioned
some little delay.
We continued our journey for some hours after dark, trav
eling by moonlight in order to find moss for the deer, and at
length camped upon a small stream about eight versts from
the semi-Russian settlement of Algasee. At this place our
second deer journey would terminate.
Having a ready trail before us from this point, early the
next morning Mahood, Swartz, Vassilly, and myself pushed

THE UDA RIVER— ALGASEE. 179
on in advance of the train. Though leading over small bar
rens and frozen lakes, in many places where were no obsta
cles this trail was so crooked and winding as nearly to double
the distance to the settlement. The Tungusians seem to have
a natural aversion to straight, direct routes. Already during
our journeys we had several times observed their making
long detours without apparent cause. It may be owing to
the freedom allowed the deer in selecting their own course,
or perhaps to the carelessness acquired by the natives through
leading a life of such indifference, in which time is no object,
and during which, wherever darkness overtakes them, there
is their home.
Fortunately for us, we soon lost the trail, and were obliged
to rely upon our compasses, guessing at the course we wished
to take. We soon struck the Uda River, which was at that
point about five hundred yards wide, and open in many
places. The bed ofthe stream, which was much exposed from
the lowness of the water, was strewn with huge boulders and
drift-logs : some of the latter were three feet in diameter at
the roots.
Having crossed on the ice, we struck a fresh trail leading
up a narrow slough, and followed it for nearly two versts,
skirting the edge of a heavy forest of larch and spruce trees,
when three log cabins came in view ; these, we were much
surprised to learn, constituted Algasee, our destination, and I
confess to a little reluctance in dismounting from my deer.
The score of inhabitants, and about four times as many dogs,
all rushed out to greet us. such a thing as a winter arrival of
strangers at their secluded little settlement not having taken
place for a long time.
Under the guidance of a venerable Cossack named Guilioff,
we entered one of the huts, and relieved ourselves of our
frosted fur clothing, while the old man began the preparation
of some tea. As we entered the low door we were confronted
by an object which surpassed in hideousness any thing we
had yet seen, and, being in a white man's habitation, occa
sioned us all the more surprise. It was a horse's head lying
upon a small table in the middle of the room ; the skin had
been peeled from it, disclosing the double array of grinning
teeth, which, with the full, protruding eyes glaring wildly

180 ' REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
from their bloody sockets, and general repulsiveness of the
object, caused us all to recoil slightly upon first seeing it. In
answer to our inquiries as to the use they proposed putting
it, our hosts manifested much surprise, and replied, " Why, eat
it, to be sure ; it is one of the best parts of the horse." We
didn't request an invitation to dine with them. We after
ward learned that horse-meat is preferred by many of these
natives (by the Yakouts especially) to either beef or deer-
meat. By them the entrails are preferred to any other por
tion of the animal, and the head next. In this locality the
carcass of a horse can usually be bought for forty roubles,
one quarter of which is demanded for the intestines alone.
Beef or venison can be purchased at half the price of horse-
meat, pound for pound.
Our disappointment in finding Algasee such an insignifi
cant little settlement was much mitigated upon learning that
the town of Oudskoi, situated about eighty versts farther up
the Uda River, was a much larger place, and that, in addi
tion to the Russian ispravnik, to whom we had brought let
ters, it also contained a church, priest, and about two hundred
inhabitants. At Algasee we could obtain dogs and sleds for the jour
ney, which, with those animals, would consume only one day.
As much with the curiosity to try this, to us, new mode of
traveling, as with the desire of reaching the larger settlement,
we resolved to make an early start the next morning.
It was quite entertaining to witness the meeting between
Yakov and old Guilioff: they had been old friends, but twelve
long years had elapsed since their last meeting. With the
naturally affectionate dispositions of these people, it is easy
to realize the scene that attended their recognition of each
other. Tears were shed quite freely, and neither had an ear or
tongue for any thing or any body other than his companion.
As we sat smoking our pipes after tea, we were suddenly
stricken nearly dumb with astonishment at hearing a Tungu
sian boy, about eight years of age, start up the song of" John
Brown." This tune, which we supposed we had left three
thousand miles behind us, lost none of Its melody at the
hands of the little native, though the words were fearfully
mangled, not being comprehended at all by the singer.

SWARTZ'S ADVENTURE ON THE ICE. 181
Many of these people 'understood several English words
and phrases : these they had learned from American whalers
in years gone by, when the latter used to congregate in Oud
skoi and Tugur Bays. A whaling captain once informed me
that, during these fiush times in the Okhotsk, he had counted
from his own ship's deck upward of seventy vessels, all visi
ble at one time. Every summer it was then the custom for
the natives and half-breed Russians of these settlements to
assemble at Chimikan, a small summer village at the mouth
of the Uda River, fifteen versts below Algasee, and there to
exchange furs, fresh meat, and fish with the whalers for liq-
ors, calicoes, tobacco, etc.
In connection with this locality, Swartz related to us quite
a thrilling adventure he had had three years previously, while
yet in the employ of the Russian-American Company. He
was at that time making a short journey along this part of
the coast with some Tungusians and reindeer. Coming to a
deep indenture in the coast, to shorten their route they de
cided to strike across the bay upon the ice, which reached
about two miles out from land seaward. After effecting a
crossing, upon reaching the farther shore they found their
farther progress barred by a narrow lane of water lying be
tween them and the beach, and, with the hope of finding a
landing-place, retraced their steps, following along the edge
of the ice. The farther they went the wider the breach be
came, when suddenly the truth flashed upon them in all its
horror. The ice-field had loosened from shore and was drift
ing out to sea, carrying them with it. To add to their, dis
may, a strong land-breeze sprung up, increasing the speed
of the ice, and covering the sea with white-caps. This was
all the more alarming, since the salt-ice upon which they were
adrift was so thin and rotten that, with two strokes, Swartz
drove the blade of his sheath-knife entirely through it. As
they drifted from beneath the lee of the land the water be
came much rougher, and their frail raft undulated with every
swell, threatening momentarily to break to pieces. To in
crease their chances of escape, the deer were distributed over
the surface of the ice-, lest their weight should cause it to
break up sooner.
By this time upward of two miles of open water intervened

182 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
between them and land, and the gap was continually widen
ing. Still they had not altogether 'abandoned hope, as the
wind did not appear to increase in violence, though it blew
bitterly cold. Suddenly a loud report, booming over the ice
field, reached the ears of the terrified party, and the next mo
ment a large fissure disclosed itself within a few rods of
where some of them were standing ; this was but the com
mencement ofthe demolition. Report succeeded report, each
proclaiming another division, until at length the whole neigh
boring surface ofthe sea was crowded with cakes of ice, large
and small, grating and grinding together among the mad
waves, and gradually encroaching upon the larger field, which
as yet bore the travelers. At this time the party thought
their destruction almost inevitable, yet dared to indulge in a
little hope that the wind might change, and they be drifted
back to land, or upon some island, before the ice should crum
ble beneath them.
But other dangers began to lower upon them. Beset upon
the one hand by hunger and thirst, and upon the other by
cold, with their frail ice-raft beneath them, there seemed but
little chance of escape. Of fresh meat they had plenty, but
no wood with which to build a fire either for cooking or warm
ing themselves. The cold became intense, and the piercing
winds even penetrated the thick fur clothing of the party.
Nor could they obtain any water for quenching their thirst.
Their deer were even worse off than they. Nothing could
be done to alleviate the danger and misery of their situation;
and, clustering together behind a small ice-hummock, which
partially protected them from the cutting wind, they silently
awaited their fate. Night at length settled down upon the
hopeless castaways, who were now many miles from shore,
and still drifting seaward.
They threw themselves down upon the ice with the vain
hope of drowning the sad reality of their position in a few
hours of sleep, but their minds were too much racked with
anxiety to admit of any such temporary relief. The deer
would freeze fast to the ice whenever they attempted to
lie down, and at length, through utter exhaustion, came and
threw themselves upon the prostrate forms of the men in
order to rest, it being almost impossible to keep them off.

FEEDING THE DOGS. 183
After the second day at sea, some of these animals became
so hungry or thirsty that they attempted to eat the ice from
Swartz's beard while he lay asleep, and actually chewed off a
portion of it. By this time the wind had died out, but land
was hardly distinguishable in the far distance. They were
constantly dreading lest a regular winter-storm should arise,
and complete the destruction of their now greatly-diminished
ice-raft. This awful suspense continued during four long and cold
days and nights, during which time the travelers subsisted,
without water, upon dried fish, of which they fortunately had
a small supply.
On the morning of the fifth day, aided by a providential
current and wind, the ice-field struck a point of land about
sixty miles below the mouth of the Uda River, and the party,
completely overcome with weakness and hunger, barely had
time to extricate themselves and deer before it once more
swept out at sea. Four ofthe deer died just after the party
reached land. With the remainder, four days were consumed
in regaining the point from which they had started on their
ice voyage.
It being our intention to make a very early start the next
morning, that evening the men who were to provide us with
dogs and sleds for the trip gave each of the animals an enor
mous frozen salmon preparatory to the journey. The dogs
were like those we had seen in Kamtchatka, and a more rav
enous, wolfish pack I never beheld : this is hardly surprising,
though, since they are fed only once each day — at night — and
then their allowance is oftener meagre than abundant.

184 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

CHAPTER Xn.
Swartz's Blunder. — Daybreak. — Exciting Scene. — Preparations for our first
Dog-ride. — Enthusiasm of Dogs. — The Narta, or Sled. — Manner of har
nessing and guiding Dogs. — The Ostle. — A crestfallen Animal. — Load
ing Sleds. — The Start, and Jump-off Place. — Contrast. — Dog Character.
— Clannishness, Rivalry, etc. — A Melee and its Consequences. — Halts.—
The Uda River and Surroundings.- — Tea and Ukale. — Ukale for Road Use.
— A Fox-chase. — Oudskoi at Night. — Astonishment of the Inhabitants. —
The Ispravnik's House. — Agreeable Surprise. — Our cordial Reception. —
Vodki. — The Priest and his Antics. — Supper. — A sacrilegious Stratagem.
— Oudskoi Society and Customs. — The Town by Daylight. — The Greek
Church and Service.— Mockery. — Simple-minded Natives. — A bamboozled
Sergeant. — The Priesthood. — Father Ivan's House and Family. — Our Quar
ters. — A Vechourka. — The FJite. — Music. — Dances. — An embarrassing
Position. — Early Recollections. — Vodki and Tea. — Ball Costume. — Snow-
shoes and Snow-shoe Practice. — The Polka. — Successful Slide and Super
natural Agency.
Feveeish with curiosity to experience the novelty of a
journey with Esquimaux dogs and sleds, and the realization
that, on the morrow, this long-anticipated desire would be
gratified, cost me some long, sleepless moments of eager ex
pectation after retiring on this our first night in Algasee.
When, at last, I did fall asleep, however, it seemed as though
but few minutes had elapsed before I was awakened by the
sound of voices, and, upon opening my eyes, found that Swartz
had aroused the household, and given them directions to catch
the dogs and prepare them for the journey, under the suppo
sition that it was near daybreak. Our watches were all, un
fortunately, out of repair, so we could not judge as to the cor
rectness of Swartz's views ; but, assuming them to be right,
we each sprang from his couch and donned his clothing, while
Yakov busied himself blowing up the embers ofthe last night's
fire to prepare some coffee.
Having a journey of fifty miles before us, we determined to
start as soon as it was light enough to distinguish the well-
beaten sled route. Having packed up the baggage we in
tended carrying with us, and refreshed the inner man with
several cups of hot coffee, we filled our pipes and groped our

DOGS AND DOG-SLEDS. 185
way out through the dark passage-way of the hut to note the
progress of day. It was dismally dark, and snowing hard.
Returning into the hut, an hour was devoted to the prepara
tion and disposal of breakfast, and there as yet being no indi
cations of approaching day, we paid a visit to the huts of our
neighbors. They were all astir like ourselves ; that genius of
wakefulness, Swartz, having in his midnight raid also dragged
them from their slumbers. After another hour's waiting, we
all once more adjourned to our couches to finish the night's
rest in any thing but a delectable frame of mind.
When day at length did break, all was life and activity.
The whole village, old and young, were out, whistling and
shouting to call the dogs, and harnessing them up in pairs
to long seal-thongs fastened between two trees, preparatory
to attaching them to the sleds. With the exception of a few
slumber-loving, lazily-inclined old beasts who had learned to
look upon a journey as a task, the dogs all responded as
promptly as could be desired, and, wild with excitement and
delight upon seeing the light sleds dragged from their shel
ter, they set up a barking, yelping, and howling that might
have been heard for miles in the still night air. So eager
were they for the start, that there was danger of the seal-
thong being broken, and the whole band rushing off pell-
mell without the nartas, or sleds.
These nartas are made from eight to ten feet in length, two
in width, and about one foot in height — that is, the floor of
the sled is about one foot above the snow. Above this a few
inches is a light railing on each side, which keeps the load in
place. The runners are about four inches in width, flat-bot
tomed, and built of white birch usually, that being, I think,
the hardest wood attainable for the purpose. The whole
structure, in fact, is of wood, excepting the rawhide lashings
at every joint, which yield if strained, instead of snapping,
as iron or other fastenings would do while chilled with cold.
The whole sled is very light and pliable, yet strong, and is
eminently fitted for journeys over a rough country or hum-
mocky ice. In front of each sled is a stout bow, to which
the long seal-thong is attached, and to this thong the dogs
are attached in pairs, one pair preceding the other instead
of being harnessed all abreast, as is the custom among the

,186 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
Greenlanders. However, the Greenland mode would not be
feasible in a rough or wooded country, though it answers
every purpose upon ice or the sea-shore.
Two of the most active and best-trained dogs are chosen
as leaders, and harnessed in the van to guide the others.
These are directed entirely by the voice, the same as in driv
ing oxen, the words " Tak ! tak !" or " Put ! put !" meaning
to the right, and " Volhk ! volhk !" to the left. Each driver
encourages his dogs by sounds and whistles peculiar to him
self, to which his dogs soon become accustomed, and, for that
reason, a strange driver can rarely excite them to much speed
or exertion. To cause the team to stop or slack its speed, a
peculiar nasal sound is employed, somewhat resembling the
" m-a-h-h" of a goat crying, though without the m prefixed.
The whip is never used by Siberian dog-drivers, a ready
substitute being found in the " ostle,*' as it is called. This
ostle is a stout wooden staff about four feet long, and having
an iron spike in the lower end, it is used chiefly as a break
for checking the speed of the dogs, and preventing the narta
from swaying sideways while crossing an incline or on
smooth ice. By thrusting it between the knees of the sled,
and crowding the spike into the ice or snow, it works very
effectually. As a substitute for the whip, the drivers hurl it
through the air at a lazy or disobedient dog, picking it up
very adroitly as the sled dashes by the spot where it has
fallen. They rarely miss their aim.
Each dog has a complete little harness, consisting of a
broad belt across the chest, by which he pulls. This is re
tained in place by another attached to it, and passes around
the dog's body. The whole is connected with the main thong
by a short trace. Much labor and taste is sometimes expend
ed in the manufacture of the harness, particularly if the dogs
are large, fine, and of uniform appearance.
During the preparations for our start upon this morning
we were several times greatly astonished at the amount of
sagacity and apparent intelligence displayed by these dogs.
One poor little fellow excited all our sympathy. Out of the
large number in the village, not more than thirty animals
were selected to draw our three sleds. Of those left behind,
there was one little fellow who manifested the greatest de-

SETTING OUT WITH THE DOGS.

187

light at the prospect of a journey. None jumped higher or
barked louder than he, and, from the very commencement of
the preparations, he stood ready to be harnessed up. When,
at length, the others were attached to the thong, and he, saw
that no attention had been paid to him, with an air of quiet pa
tience he walked up to the team, and took his place in the line
with the expectation of being harnessed. To prevent his ac
companying us, Guilioff put a strap about his neck, and, lead
ing him up to a post, tied him fast. At this the poor fellow
drooped his tail, and his intelligent countenance assumed an
expression of the most intense disappointment. He evident
ly felt the denial as acutely as could any human being.
After having first packed in the bottom of each sled dried
and frozen fish for dog food, our baggage was next loaded
on, and over the whole our fur bedding and blankets were
spread, making quite a comfortable couch for us to recline
upon. Then, loosening the dogs, the drivers seized their ostles,
sprang upon the front of their sleds, and, at the signal to
start, off we dashed like the wind through the dark forest.
The dogs were wild with enthusiasm, and, defying all re
straint, with heads and tails in the air, and causing the woods
to resound with their barks and yelps, rushed forward like a
pack of famished wolves closing upon their prey. Destruc
tion to both ourselves and sleds seemed imminent as we shot

A DOG-TEAM.

188 ¦ REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
through the dim twilight, every few moments barely grazing
the dark, shaggy trunks of huge trees that skirted the narrow
trail. A few moments carried us out of the woods safely to
the slough, along the edge of which our sleds bounded, now
up a little incline, and now down again ; and then dashing
beneath the low branches of clusters of willows, when sud
denly, as if by magic, every dog vanished from sight, and the
next instant we plunged over the steep river-bank to a soft
bed of snow about ten feet below, on the ice. This was all
accomplished so quickly that we barely had time to catclf
our breath ; and the furious speed, together with the faint,
uncertain light, which made objects appear more like phan
toms than realities, left us in a state of such bewilderment
that some minutes elapsed before we came to a realizing
sense of what had taken place.
Now that we had passed the most difficult part of the
route, the dogs ceased their yelping and settled down to a
steady, quick trot. The noiseless manner in which each sled,
preceded by the long line of low, dark objects, glided out upon
the smooth bed of the river, contrasted strangely with the
hubbub and rush of the preceding moments.
The morning was cold and frosty, and the snow-clouds hav
ing vanished, the heavens were all aglow with myriads of
stars, whose pale light, mingling with the earliest rays of ap
proaching dawn, vested the wintry landscape with a weird
like, ghastly aspect. This, together with the novelty and
strangeness of our first experience in dog traveling, made that
morning's ride one of the most agreeable episodes of our Si
berian experiences.
As we were traveling along I could not but observe a cer
tain clannishness existing among the dogs of each team.
Though well acquainted with each other, and upon perfectly
familiar terms while loose at the village, yet, when once har
nessed to the sled, a spirit of rivalry springs up between the
different teams which is often carried to a point of positive
warfare. This is more noticeable when one team attempts
to pass another upon the route, which is constantly occurring
during a day's ride. Upon these occasions the faster team
trots ahead with an air of indifference and conscious superi- ,
ority which, human-like, frets and irritates their rivals to such

INCIDENTS OF DOG-TRAVELING. 189
an extent that, no longer able to restrain himself, one of the
latter makes a vicious snap at the nearest animal of the lead
ing team; this is immediately resented by a counter snap,
and, before the drivers are hardly aware of what has taken
place, both sleds stop, and a systematic fight ensues. The
air rings with shouts, howls, barks, yelps, whines, and cries ;
the lines and harnesses of the two teams become a perfect
network of tangle, and by the time the drivers reach the
scene of the melee and deal a dozen vicious blows right and
left with their ostles, the animals of the two teams are so
completely twisted, mixed, and interwoven as to defy the ¦
judgment of any but their masters to detect which is which.
The most interesting feature of one of these conflicts is to ob
serve the manner in which the contending parties distinguish
friend from foe during the melee.
About every ten versts during the day our drivers stopped
a few minutes to allow the dogs a rest; they (the dogs), how
ever, having done but little traveling as yet during the win
ter, did not seem to appreciate these halts, but, immediately
upon the sleds being stopped, would commence an impatient
howling, and continue it until once more on the route.
The Uda River flows nearly due east, its general course
being tolerably straight, though now and then we encoun
tered large bends. In these places we might have somewhat
lessened the distance traveled, but upon the bed of the river
the snow was so much harder and the road better, that we
did not leave the ice at all during the day. Deep snow is a
very serious obstacle to dog - traveling on account of the
shortness of their legs.
There was but little variation in the aspect of the country.
Both banks of the river were tolerably well wooded with
larch, spruce, and poplars principally, the country to the north
being nearly level, while to the south of the river it was more
broken and hilly. At noon, having accomplished about half
the distance,' we halted long enough to prepare some tea,
upon which, with ukale, we made a very fair repast. While
we were in Nikolayefsk, one of our friends, in picturing to us
the horrors and hardships we were about to encounter in our
explorations, made the following remark : " Talk about the
privations you have undergone in America, but just wait un-

190 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
til you have to come down to black bread and ukale ; then
you will regret ever having come to Siberia." This startling
announcement did not weigh much with us at the time ; still,
for the benefit of our friend, who may perhaps see these pages,
I will here say that we were highly delighted with our ukale-
eating experiences, even without the black bread, of which we
afterward became very fond also. I can conceive of no one
article of food better suited for these winter journeys than
carefully-prepared ukale. It is light, convenient for packing,
contains abundant nourishment, requires no farther prepara
tion before being eaten, and is very palatable indeed. We
had already acquired such a fondness for it that we had no
notion of renewing our journey without first having secured
a good supply of it for road use.
During the afternoon our journey was much enlivened by
a very spirited fox-chase, which, though of short duration,
gave us a fine opportunity of judging of the speed at which
dogs can travel when under the influence of excitement.
The ice was smooth and frosted just enough to afford excel
lent foothold for the animals. When first seen, the fox was
about half a mile ahead of us, in plain view upon the ice, but
did not appear to regard our approach until the keen eyes
of the dogs detected it, and started in full pursuit, with their
wolfish yelps. It was glorious riding while the race lasted,
but soon the fox took shelter in the woods on the north bank
of the river, when the chase was abandoned.
The sun set at 4 P.M., while yet about twelve versts lay
between us and Oudskoi. The light of a new moon enabled
the drivers to pick their way during the next hour and a
half, at the end of which, chilled and frosted, upon rounding
a bend in the river, we came in full view of six or eight low
log buildings pitched upon the north bank in a very exposed
position. The warm lights gleaming through the ice win
dows were laden with a degree of cheerfulness which com
pletely aroused us from a state of lethargy into which we
had all subsided since darkness and the increasing cold had
set in. During this last hour's travel I had suffered more
from cold than at any time previously since commencing our
journeys, though the thermometer indicated but —11° Fahr
enheit.

ARRIVAL AT OUDSKOI.— THE ISPRAVNIK. 191
This group of buildings was Oudskoi. The delighted bark
ing of our dogs aroused the inhabitants, who gathered about
the doors of their huts, curious to know what travelers would
dare to break in upon their wonted quiet and security so un
ceremoniously ; and still greater was their astonishment as
they saw our sleds stop before the ispravnik's head-quarters,
for by that they knew us to be strangers.
This little Russian outpost is so far isolated, and so diffi
cult of access during the winter, that no one ever thinks of
approaching it. The only communication its inhabitants
have with the civilized world is when the Russian supply-
steamer touches at the mouth of the Uda River each sum
mer, with a year or two's provision for the ispravnik and his
dozen Cossacks, and to convey back to the Amoor the an
nual yassak or taxes collected in furs by them from the na
tives resident in the district. Under these circumstances, an
arrival of sleds even from Algasee is considered an event ;
much more so when utter strangers, and foreigners at that,
tread their thresholds.
Upon dismounting at the ispravnik's door, we were all sur
prised at hearing Swartz greeted in true, generous American
style, accompanied by a familiar slap on the shoulder, and
were then introduced to Captain Hutchinson, an American
whaler, who was a member of the Company we had expect
ed to meet at Tugur. He and Swartz had been old friends
while serving together with the Russian- American Fur Com
pany. Neither had the slightest idea of meeting the other,
many years having elapsed since they had seen one another.
Our reception by the ispravnik was very cordial ; so great
was his delight, according to his own confession, in finding
that we were not a party of Russians sent to supersede him
in office, which event he thought quite possible under the re
cent change of governors at Nikolayefsk. He was a young
man of about thirty years of age, but his countenance bore
the marks of a rather dissipated life. Drinking vodki evi
dently figured largely in the social enjoyments of Oudskoi
society, his only companion being the priest; I looked about
in vain for books, the usual companions of solitary individ
uals, but not a page of printed matter could be seen. We
were at first utterly at a loss to know how the long succes-

192 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
sion of tedious days were whiled away by him, but later
during our sojourn we had abundant opportunity for ob
serving. Our furs were barely removed when vodki was produced,
and, it being a part of Russian etiquette not to refuse drink,
we indulged in "piat nadsat carplets" (fifteen drops), as it is
called, though no one is expected to limit himself to that
exact quantity. Soon, however, invitations to drink fell so
thick and fast that we were obliged to decline for fear of the
consequences ; nevertheless, our host continued to imbibe sin
gly until the opportune arrival ofthe priest supplied him with
a fellow-convivialist. The surprising ease, grace, and agility
with which this long-haired and robed gentleman emptied
glass after glass of the liquor would have done credit to any
Bacchanalian association. It did have its effect upon him,
though. After about half an hour his mirth exceeded all
bounds, and, his eyes gleaming with ecstatic frenzy, he seized
a small three-stringed Cossack instrument, and striking up a
monotonous quickstep, began dancing about the room, whip
ping his long hair back and forth, and accompanying his
antics with a wild, peculiar air, sung, however, with a very
good voice. The performer being one of the holy members
of the prifesthood commonly known as Father Ivan, and at
that very time wearing the garb and crucifix of his order, it
may not be surprising that this scene struck us a little pecul
iar. At; length, supper being announced, we were ushered into
an adjoining apartment, and seated at a small table about
two feet in diameter, upon which was placed a dish of hashed
meat and potatoes, a decanter of alcohol, and six forks. Not
being conversant with Oudskoi customs, upon being request
ed to eat, we naturally waited for plates, when Swartz in
formed us that, all were expected to eat from the same dish,
and set us a worthy example by transfixing a fine potato and
conveying it to his mouth. After this all passed as merrily
as our ignorance of Russian and our host's ignorance ofthe
English language would admit of.
During the repast, at the request of Father Ivan, Swartz
interpreted to us the pith of a good joke and a little sharp
practice played by him upon the ispravnik the night before

FATHER IVAN'S LITTLE GAME. 193
our arrival, which, as it throws a little more light upon Oud
skoi life, may be worth inserting. It seemed that the two
had been indulging frequently in gambling with varying
success, though the priest was generally the more successful
of the two. The night in question they had played until
daybreak, by which time the pious father was the winner of
about one hundred roubles. Both parties were absurdly su
perstitious, and each attributed his good or ill luck to some
particular cause. This cause the priest edified us with, much
to the discomfort of the ispravnik, who had been ignorant of
it hitherto. At the commencement of the game the priest had drawn a
hideous picture of his satanic majesty on the lower side of
the paper upon which the record of the game was kept, and,
from superstitious motives, had placed that side ofthe paper
next the ispravnik, believing that it would cause him ill luck.
As the game progressed, contrary to his expectations, the is
pravnik won so steadily that the priest became at once satis
fied that in turning the picture from himself he had injured
his own fortune. The manner in which he remedied the mat
ter, and the consequent change in luck, were among the causes
of his mirthfulness during the evening. While his competitor
was not observing, he made three crosses upon the forehead
of the picture, and, having blessed it and christened it the Al
mighty, turned it next himself; from that moment he claimed
that his fortune changed. This converting ofthe picture of
Satan into one of the Almighty by making the three crosses
upon it, and the blessing he bestowed upon it after the usual
Church form, for the purpose of bringing him luck at the
gaming-table, were regarded by the robed hypocrite as indi
cations ofthe highest strategic ability on his part. When
at length the evening's events terminated, we gladly threw
ourselves down upon our fur pallets to sleep away the weari
ness of our day's journey.
The following day, November 26th, being Sunday, we at
tended service at the small chapel. It had not been the
priest's intention to hold service ; but, upon learning that we
had not yet witnessed the forms of the Church, for our espe
cial benefit he said he would alter his intention.
By the light of day Oudskoi appeared far less attractive to
N

194

REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

us than it did the night before with its small, glowing win
dows. Though dating from about the middle of the seven
teenth century, it at the time of our visit comprised not more
than ten log houses besides the chapel, and these were di
vided about equally into two small groups, both on the north
bank of the Uda River, and about half a mile apart. Over
the lower one of these the ispravnik presided, while the priest
and church were located in the upper one, upon a bluff about
fifty feet in height, overlooking the river. The church was a

small, plain log structure, crowned with a low tower and
dome : it stood upon the most exposed part of the bluff, so
that winds from all quarters might find ready access to the
interior through various crncks and holes between the logs.
Like all Greek churehes, it was unprovided with pews or
-seats for the accommodation ofthe congregation, the score
of simple-minded, religiously-inclined natives and Cossacks in
attendance being all either standing or kneeling as we en
tered. Opposite the entrance, back of the altar, through a
latticed door leading into the " sanctum," we could see the
figure of our last night's companion, dressed in a long, beau
tiful robe, woven in scroll-work figures from blue silk and

DIVINE SERVICE AT OUDSKOI. 195
gold threads, bowing and chanting before a crucifix, while a
" dichox," or deacon, and two young Cossacks, with very
sweet voices, responded from a small alcove at the right of
the altar. Upon each side of the latticed door hung gilded
chandeliers, containing candles large and small ; and upon all
sides, painted upon panels and banners, were pictures of vari
ous saints, some of them beautifully executed, in front of each
of which stood, or were suspended, clusters of wax candles.
Some of these pictures appeared to be several centuries old,
and had been conveyed from Europe.
I could not but experience a feeling of reverence as we en
tered the little chapel and saw the sincerity expressed upon
the countenances of the humble audience, though entirely
different emotion on our part would hardly have been sur
prising, knowing as we did the mockery and hypocrisy with
which the forms were being conducted. But even the coun
tenance of the Bacchanalian priest had assumed such a sacred
and reverential aspect as to defy our powers in reconciling it
with that of the creature we had seen the night before.
At the close of the service, many of the congregation ap
proached the priest and sought his blessing. Among them
we were surprised at seeing a Cossack sergeant, the second
in command of the town : this man resided with the isprav
nik, and was perfectly acquainted with the character and
doings of the priest. How he could approach him with any
degree of confidence in his holy powers was a mystery which
I have never been able to solve.
Yet, notwithstanding the carousals and blasphemies of this
strange individual, so repulsive in a churchman, he had some
good traits. The hospitable disposition which we had thus
far found so prominent a characteristic of Russian nature was
in him also well developed — so much so, in fact, that, notwith
standing the feelings of disgust with which my recollections
of the man are crowded, I can not now and then avoid enter
taining some very slight regard for him. The more we came
in contact with members of the brotherhood, the more con
firmed we became in our first impressions of them received in
Kamtchatka. We found them generally very unfit persons
to be trusted with the spiritual welfare of any people, hea
thens or what not.

196 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
The priest's house being near the church, by his invitation
we accompanied him home and received an introduction to
his family, comprising a plain but amiable-looking wife and
two bright little boys. The three, however, wore such broken-
spirited, frightened expressions in the presence of the pater
familias as to attract our attention. This, we afterward
learned, was attributable to a very free use of the rod, since
flogging is a right reserved to the more muscular sex in this
country, and is practised upon wives as well as children. The
house being large, comfortable, and only partially occupied,
at the earnest and kind solicitations of the priest, we fixed
upon part of it as our quarters during the remainder of our
sojourn in town. Here we would have to procure fresh deer
for the journey to Ajan, and as the ispravnik had thus far
been able to give us but little aid or encouragement in ob
taining the necessary animals, we anticipated a long and te
dious delay.
The following pages are transcribed almost literally from
my journal, written at the time of our four weeks' delay, and,
being a record of nearly all we saw, felt, and heard in this
Wilderness village, I submit it to the reader as a description
of Siberian frontier life.
The second evening after our arrival in Oudskoi the is
pravnik gave us a "vechourka," or dance, at which all the
beauty and chivalry of the place were assembled. The
"beauty" consisted of four very homely peasant-women (the
wives of some ofthe Cossacks), and the "chivalry" comprised
the ispravnik, his doctor (a lean-looking individual, with his
hair cut fighting-fashion), the dichok,- and four or five Cos
sacks, besides ourselves. The Cossacks comprised the orches
tra, and sang lively Russian airs to dance by. The affair was
held in the house of one of the Cossacks.
After being introduced to the hostess — the best-looking of
the feminine portion ofthe inhabitants — we were ushered into
a small room about ten feet square, with a row of benches ar
ranged around the sides to accommodate the guests. Tea
was served, during which the Cossacks struck up one of their
national airs. This finished, the whole party joined in a song,
and the ladies sprang from their seats into the middle ofthe
room, each throwing a handkerchief upon some gentleman

A VECHOURKA. 197
as a challenge for him to dance. In an instant one of them
had me by the arm, hauling me out upon the floor by main
force. I would have objected, as I had no idea of what was
going to be done, and preferred looking on for a while, but
Swartz said the lady would feel offended if I refused to dance
with her.
Upon looking about me, and seeing that Mahood had been
pounced upon in the same unceremonious manner, without
farther ado I resigned myself wholly to the will of my part
ner. She took my hand, and commenced promenading around
the small space, as did all the others, at the same time sing
ing to me something in RuSfeian that I know must have been
very sweet, from her tone and manner, and the bewitching
looks she gave me from the corners of her eyes. Fortunate
ly I could not understand it, as it would, without doubt, have
been completely overpowering.
This was the longest song and dance I had ever participa
ted in. Around the room we walked without cessation for
half an hour, every body red in the face from the exertion of
singing, and all looking as though they were striving for a
wager to see who would split his or her throat first. Just
as I was about giving up all hope of the thing ending at all,
the song suddenly ceased, and my partner, stopping, turned
her face up to mine. She evidently expected something, but
what I could not tell, so anxiously awaited some farther de
velopment. My feelings were soon relieved, however, by
hearing a confused smacking noise on all sides, that sound
ed familiar ; but, to assure myself, I glanced around, and,
upon finding that my ears had not deceived me, I did like
wise, of course. When the affair had ended, I remembered
having danced something similar about eighteen years be
fore, while in short dresses.
In a few minutes the same performance was repeated to
another tune for variety, and we went through it without a
blunder. At the end of every second dance diluted alcohol
was passed around, and after every fourth one tea was served.
This was greatly relished, as quarts of it were consumed by
the thirsty assemblage.
There were only two dances that seemed to be in favor
with the elite of Oudskoi, or, if there were others, they were

198 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
so like the first that I did not discover their distinguishing
peculiarities. The second was even more complicated than
the first ; to perform it, four persons and two chairs are es
sential. First, two gentlemen sat upon the chairs, which were
placed in the middle ofthe room, facing each other ; then two
ladies took out their pocket-handkerchiefs (for, though hand
kerchiefs were not generally a part of feminine apparel here,
yet each lady kept one especially for these occasions), and
paraded around the chairs, occasionally passing between
them, now and then raising their handkerchiefs above their
heads, and assuming graceful attitudes. All this time they
were singing at the top of thei* voices. This was the first
figure ; for the second the ladies sat, and the gentlemen did
the walking. The dance terminated, the same as the first,
by kissing.
All the ladies wore calico dresses of a very antique pat
tern, crinolines not having, as yet, been adopted. Instead
of the low-necked, or, as they might with propriety be called,
body-less dresses of civilization, they wore very high-necked
ones. In addition to these, their shoulders were protected by
a small shawl, pinned with the greatest precision, so that no
portion of the neck was visible, and hardly the ears. They
dressed in this manner, not for the sake of propriety, but be
cause they thought it becoming. The sleeves were long and
very tight, and the skirts so small that no gathers were nec
essary at the waist. Their heads were covered with red, yel
low, green, or figured pieces of cloth (according to the taste
of the wearer), worn something after the style of negro
women in the Southern States of America, and giving them
the appearance of being bald-headed, were it not for a small,
well-greased lock of hair which protruded from beneath the
turban on each temple, and, with a short, graceful curve, re
treated to cover about an inch above the ear.
The ball ended about 1 1 o'clock, when we retired, about as
much exhausted as if having made a long day's journey.
While here we derived no small amount of amusement, as
well as exercise, in learning to use the snow-shoe, which we
thought would probably be an important aid in our future
journeys. These snow-shoes were made of white birch,
about six feet long by eight or ten inches in width, and were

SNOW-SHOES.

199

shaved down to not more than a quarter of an inch in thick
ness, making each pair weigh about eight pounds. They were
soled with skin taken .from the legs of the elk, deer, or horse,
stretched so that the hair flowed toward the heel, making the
shoe glide forward very easily, and preventing it from slip
ping backward while making an ascent. The skin of the elk
is best, but is hard to obtain, and that of the horse is also
very good. On the sea-shore sealskin is used for the same
purpose. A person can travel much faster with these shoes
than he can walk ; for, though he steps much the same, yet,
in addition to the length ofthe pace, the shoe slides several
inches with each stride.

SNOW-SUOE.

Men and boys make use of them for sliding down hill for
amusement, as a substitute for sleds, and become so expert
that they can descend very steep and long declivities at al
most lightning speed, standing, and preserve their balance
without the use of the polka, or staff, to lean upon. The
snow-shoer always carries a staff, it being a great assistance
while traveling, either on a level or iii ascending a hill, and
serves as a break to check his speed in making a descent.
We made a daily practice of going to the steep river-bank,
near the church, for sliding, and soon became so expert that,
in one attempt out of three, we could reach the foot of the
hill without falling. The first time I attempted it without a
staff, just as I started over the brink my companions said the
priest made the sign of the cross over me, and, as I reached
the bottom without a fall, I attribute it wholly to his super
natural power. With good shoes a person can ascend an in
clination of 40° without slipping backward.

200 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

CHAPTER XHI.
Russian Steam Bath. — Its Effects. — Our Quarters. — Temperature. — The
Saints as Bankers. — Thievish Propensities of Natives, and). Superstitious
Notions. — A peculiar Disease. — Heartless Proceeding. — Taken by Sur
prise. — A helpless Victim. — Remedy. — Horse-meat Experiment. — Eating
Entrails. — Ispravnik's Disinclination to aid us. — Dispatch Tungusians
after Deer. — Arrival of Yakout Caravan.- — Our good Luck. — A great Oc
casion. — Baptismal Ceremony. — Mahood's Predicament. — Spitting upon
the Devil. — Russian Names. — Congratulations. — Duties of Godfathers. —
Great Prasnik. — Patron Saint of Siberia. — Name's Days. — Celebration. —
Story of Saint Innocentia. — The Starobradets. — Miraculous Interposition.
— Saint Nikolai's Day and Salute. — Blessing Images. — Religious Farce. —
Rascally Priests. — Tungusians return. — No Guides. — Mainukan Route. —
Discouragements. — Our intended Route. — Fresh Outfit. — Frozen Milk. —
Ivan's Departure with Deer. — A farewell Vechourka.
Fkom the day we left Nikolayefsk to the time of our ar
rival at Oudskoi — a full month — we had been denied the lux
ury of a bath, our light canvas tent and a temperature rang
ing from zero to —18° Fahrenheit making such an operation
any thing but desirable. After our arrival, however, the kind
ness ofthe priest in placing his bath-house at our disposal no
longer left us an excuse for neglecting this so important an
operation. Once having tried the process, we frequently re
sorted to it as much for the luxury it afforded as for the sake
of cleanliness. The arrangement of the priest's bath was
much the same as that we had seen in Avatcha, near Petro
paulovski, though it was more carefully constructed, and a
good brick peachka or oven was substituted for the pile of
cobble-stones, which in the former were arranged so as to be
heated by a fire beneath. In addition, it had a better ante
room for dressing and undressing before and after the bath.
Upon the occasion of bathing, after having stripped and
entered the steaming-room, we always took the precaution of
wetting our heads in cold water before the heated water was
thrown into the oven to generate steam; this prevents a
headache, which is very apt to succeed the operation. Water
was then thrown into the heated oven, and in an instant the

A RUSSIAN BATH. 201
atmosphere of the room was almost scalding, particularly at
the upper platform, where for a while the heat was stifling,
and we could with difficulty breathe. This sensation was im
mediately followed by a very heavy perspiration, that seemed
to flow in streams from every pore, during which we lay upon
the platform, and our attendants, taking bunches of switches,
switched us from head to feet, producing a tingling but not
unpleasant feeling. When this operation was finished, the
attendants took large basins of suds, and, with bundles of tow,
scrubbed us unmercifully, with utter disregard of our feel
ings, fairly rasping the skin off. After this we were stationed
upon the floor and soused with a basin of hot water ; this
sousing was followed by another of tepid water, and then a
large dish of snow-water was produced and dashed upon us,
the lumps of wet snow lodging upon our heads and shoul
ders: this apparently disagreeable feature was by far the
most pleasant part of the process. Our systems had become
so thoroughly heated that, instead of feeling disagreeably
cold, it only cooled the skin and checked perspiration. We
would then retire to the anteroom and make vigorous use of
coarse towels; after which, bundling up in our furs to avoid
catching cold, we would adjourn to our quarters, where the
Cossack usually had in readiness an abundance of hot coffee
or tea. Half a dozen cups were nothing after one of these
baths. This operation usually leaves a feeling of exhaustion
and drowsiness, which suggests a "nap," and of all times, that
is the time par excellence to enjoy one.
Our quarters in the priest's house were roomy, and comfort
able as long as the oven was kept heated, in spite of several
broken window-panes that admitted the cold out-of-door air.
The usual temperature of the apartments during the day was
+ 35° Fahrenheit; this we found abundantly warm, after
camping out for a month. We ate, drank, smoked, read,
wrote, and slept in this one apartment, spreading our beds at
night upon the floor. In one corner of the room were three
rather inferior paintings, made to represent the Savior and
two saints, before each of which candles were kept suspended:
these images were of considerable use to us, though perhaps
in a different manner from that in which they were intended
to benefit mankind. We had been frequently warned ao-ainst

202 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
the thievish propensities of these Cossacks and natives, who,
we were told, will steal, though they usually take the precau
tion of crossing themselves before appropriating any thing,
and then, if no superhuman power prevents thetheft, they
consider themselves rightfully entitled to the coveted arti
cle.* But they hold these images in the greatest awe and
reverence. Knowing this fact, for want of a better and more
secure hiding-place, we deposited our funds behind them, and
I have no doubt that they were as secure as if inclosed in an
iron safe. Had any of them known the money to be con
cealed there, they would have thought it placed under the
guardianship of the saints, and would have feared to molest
it. The ispravnik himself was very superstitious ; he assured
us upon his honor that he had twice seen " his satanic maj
esty." A few evenings since I had an opportunity of observing
the effects of a very peculiar disease with which many ofthe
natives of these regions are afflicted. Women are more gen
erally the unfortunate ones. It occurred during a visit at
the ispravnik's house. Under pretense of wishing to speak to
me, the ispravnik asked me to accompany him to the kitchen,
where were eight or ten natives, Yakouts and Tungusians.
Among them was a very old woman, apparently tottering
upon the brink ofthe grave, whom I had not before observed.
We had scarcely entered the room when the ispravnik uttered
a quick scream, and sprang toward me as if to strike me. In
stantaneously the old woman gave a scream also, and, before
I was hardly aware of her presence, sprang at me like a ma
niac, gnashing her teeth, and pawing and belaboring me with
a rapid succession of feeble blows. I was at first so much
astonished as not to know whether it was sport or not, but
endeavored to laugh. Soon, however, upon the ispravnik's
continuing his shouting and jumping, I perceived that the
poor woman had no control of herself whatever, but that she
was furious with excitement, screaming, jabbering in Tungu
sian, and beginning to foam at the mouth : in fact, she was
perfectly at the mercy of the ispravnik, who was fairly shak-
* Notwithstanding this assertion of those whom we met in the country,
never, except in one instance where a little liquor was taken, did we miss any
thing .that could be attributed to theft.

A PECULIAR DISEASE— EATING HORSE-MEAT. 203
ing with delight at the sport, utterly regardless of the feel
ings ofthe victim. Upon comprehending the state of affairs,
I requested him to stop, when he appeared perfectly aston
ished at the lack of appreciation I manifested. The woman,
immediately after the excitement, was taken with violent
spasms, from which she did not recover for nearly three
hours. Upon inquiry, we learned that these cases had utter
ly defied the powers of doctors throughout the country,
though every conceivable remedy had been tried. As a last
resort, at the town of Yakoutsk, they had tried flogging the
patients, thinking by intimidation to arouse the resistive
powers ofthe unfortunates ; but, after very severe whippings,
they were the same as before — entirely at the mercy of any
feelingless beings. I afterward encountered similar cases
nearly as far north as the arctic circle. Many times it was
very dangerous to excite those afflicted, as they spasmodic
ally make use of whatever weapon or implement lies within
their reach.
Ever since our arrival, the ispravnik had been preaching to
us the deliciousness of horse-meat, and employed such elo
quent arguments in its favor that we were at length pre
vailed upon to test its qualities. He told us he had some
very nice fat meat, young and tender, and would prepare a
meal for us whenever desired. It was not without great re
luctance we accepted his kind offer, since a vision of that hid
eous head at Algasee presented itself invariably whenever the
subject was broached ; but, being fortunately gifted natural
ly with pretty strong stomachs (which, by the way, we found
very valuable appendages on many occasions), and, in addi
tion, having subjected them to a systematic training for
emergencies since commencing our winter journeys ; prompt
ed somewhat by curiosity when the Cossack announced that
the dinner was awaiting us, we threw on our furs, and went
to the ispravnik's with the determination to hazard a mouth
ful, at any rate. As soon as we entered the house we no
ticed a peculiar odor, which was not most pleasant, as it was
very suggestive of stables and barn-yards. We sat at the
same little table as on previous occasions, the only dish being
that containing the meat, around which were ranged half a
dozen forks. The meat appeared to have been cut into very

204 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
thin slices, and rolled around bunches of fat, which gave it
somewhat the appearance of sausages cut into short pieces.
After fortifying ourselves with " vodki," the ispravnik appro
priated a piece with his fork, and smacked his lips over it
with such evident delight that we proceeded to the attack
without farther ado. The meat' was very tough, to say the
least, and was as elastic as India-rubber. I don't know how
long I chewed upon the first mouthful, but, strange suspicions
coming to my mind, I was compelled to swallow it hastily in
a half-masticated state. Perseverance will accomplish almost
any thing, and in half an hour's time the dish was empty,
though our host had eaten at least three quarters of its con
tents. We did not dare ask any questions until the meal was
ended, when, much to our disgust, we learned that we had
been eating the entrails. We thought nothing at all of eat
ing horse-steaks after this, but I have never been able to de
tect any thing delicious about any part of the animal. It is
very dry, tough, and coarse-grained, and is nothing in com
parison with beef or venison for flavor. The only time I
would recommend its use would be in cases of absolute starv
ation. Immediately upon our arrival we had notified the ispravnik
of our desire to continue our journey at as early a day as pos
sible, and, as we were provided with written instructions from
Nikolayefsk to all Russian officers and subjects upon our
route to furnish us with what information and assistance we
might require, we had hoped to be able to start in a very
short time. Whether from a desire to enjoy our company for
a longer period, or through utter carelessness, I am unable to
say, but the only encouragement we could get was that we
might be delayed here two months before guides and suffi
cient deer could be procured, and certain it is that no exer
tions were made in our behalf. One day, however, we chanced
to hear that there were several Tungusian hunters camped
within one hundred versts of Oudskoi, with reindeer, to whom
we immediately started a native on snow-shoes, as there was
no other conveyance to be had. From these hunters we man
aged to get the promise of a sufficient number of deer for our
purpose, but they would not be able to reach town until about
December 13 th.

- A BAPTISMAL CEREMONY. 205
Through instructions from Governor Furruhelm, the is
pravnik furnished us a new Cossack, named Ivan, to accom
pany us to Okhotsk. Yakov remained here, though the poor
fellow was very anxious to continue the journey with us.
After the departure of our Tungusian on snow-shoes, sev
eral Yakout merchants arrived from Yakoutsk with trains of
deer laden with tea, tobacco, and trinkets, to trade to the
Tungusians for furs. The caravan had already come about
2000 versts (1250 miles), and had not yet half completed
their journeying. They make these tours every winter, stop
ping at Oudskoi to procure passports..
We had been very fortunate thus far, happening to arrive
at different places upon the eves of great occasions. During
our stay at Nikolayefsk, that town was the scene of greater
festivity and excitement than it had enjoyed before for a
number of years. The change of governors, and consequent
balls and banquets, were events not recorded in the annals
of the place every day, or year either. Our arrival at Oud
skoi was equally opportune, for we had hardly been here a
week when the ispravnik became a father.
The third day after the birth of the child was settled upon
for the baptism, and, though it is customary, I believe, to have
but one godfather and one godmother, the ispravnik wanted
five, that we might all serve in that capacity. He finally re
duced the number to three, the priest, Mahood, and Swartz
officiating. The ceremony took place in the ispravnik's house, where a
number of the Church ornaments had been previously car
ried. Captain Hutchinson and myself composed the audi
ence, but did not arrive at the house until the ceremony had
commenced. In the middle ofthe room was a stool covered with a white
cloth, upon which sat a large basin of warm water. The priest
stood near this, chanting, bowing, and crossing himself to the
images in the corner ofthe room, the dichok and his assistant
occasionally responding, also chanting. In a line back of the
priest stood the godfathers and godmothers, each holding a
large candle wound spirally with gilt paper, and on the left
of these stood the midwife, with the child in her arms. Mid-
wives, I am told, draw a regular salary from government for

206 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
their services. The priest also held a candle, and was dressed
in a dark green robe ornamented with gilt. The ceremony
being in Russian, I was unable to understand what was said,
except as passages were interpreted to me. Free use was
made of the censer, all bowing and chanting in the mean
while. Once the priest faced the godparents, and they having
turned their backs to him, he commenced questioning them,
to which they replied by spitting upon the floor. They were
spitting upon the devil in the name of the child. The priest
then blessed the water, making a cross in it with his finger,
after which he advanced to the child, and named it Innocen-
tia Petrovitch — Innocentia, after the great saint, and Petro-
vitch, which means son of Peter, after the father. This is al
ways the custom in Russia. The first name is that of some
saint, and the second that of the father, with the syllable
"vitch" or "itch" affixed. In speaking of a person, his fam
ily name is rarely used, even the present Czar being general
ly known as Alexander Nikolaiovitch.
The priest then took the child in his hands, and, after re
peating something, soused it three times into the water. In
the mean time the godmothers were paying particular atten
tion to Mahood, extending his arms and spreading cloths
over them, all of which was involved in mystery to him,
until the priest suddenly turned and laid the wet, naked lit
tle one in his arms, squalling as loud as its youthful lungs
would permit. The movement was so sudden that Mahood
came near letting the little one fall. Though the ceremony
was very solemn and touching, I confess that the expression
on Mahood's countenance at this unexpected development
drove all solemnity from my feelings. He said he "did not
dare to move for fear of breaking it."
After the priest had muttered a few words the child was
passed to Swartz, and from him back to the midwife. It is
expected of the godfather to give the child a crucifix and
gown. These the priest donated, and, after blessing the arti
cles, they were placed over its head. He then blessed the
child, making the sign of the cross on all parts of its body,
after which he cut, with scissors, a cross upon its head from
the hair.

SAINT INNOCENTIA. 207
Toward the last of the ceremony the priest took the child
and marched around the basin, the others forming a proces
sion behind him, all chanting. The other godfathers each
took the child and performed a similar ceremony, when all
kissed the crucifix (the child included), and the ceremony
soon ended. It occupied nearly an hour. After the baptism
every body shook hands, and congratulated every body else
on the escape of the child from drowning, I suppose, for it is
astonishing how the little things can endure such a ducking
as this one got. .
Mahood and Swartz paid the priest several roubles for his
services, as the ispravnik hinted to them that it was expect
ed. He also quietly informed them that the midwife expect
ed a fee, and that the candles were to be paid for. In answer
to the inquiry whether there were any other items of expense,
they were told that the godfathers are expected to present
the child yearly with a few roubles, and that it was some
times customary for them to pi-esent the godmothers with
new dresses. The ispravnik then treated the party to tea,
alcohol, and a lunch, when the baptism was completed.
The next day, November 26th (Russian, or old style of
reckoning time, and December 8th of our mode), was the
name-day, or christening anniversary of St. Innocentia. This
is the greatest Siberian prasnik, or holiday, since St. Innocen
tia figured principally in Siberia. It was after this saint that
the ispravnik's son was named. St. Innocentia, the priest told
us, was formerly an archbishop in Irkoutsk, and died some
time in the commencement of the eighteenth century. Sev
enty years after his burial his body was disinterred, and found
to be in a perfect state of preservation, which was the cause
of his canonization. He is considered now the patron saint
of Siberia.
Services were held in the church on the eve of the prasnik,
also in the morning, when' a picture of the saint was placed
on a desk in the middle ofthe church, before which the priest
and audience bowed themselves, touching their heads to the
floor. During the morning service sacrament was adminis
tered to the youthful Innocentia Petrovitch, but he had not
inherited his father's love for wine, so made -a great deal of
fuss over it. The priest's younger son was also named after

208 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
this saint, and, to celebrate his child's name-day, the priest
invited us to dinner. Name-days are celebrated here instead
of birth-days.
After dinner the priest told us the following story concern
ing St. Innocentia, which he advanced as a convincing argu
ment to prove the holiness of that saint. I give it as it was
translated to me.
There is a religious sect in Russia called the " Starobra-
dets," who have seceded from the regular followers of the
Greek Church of to-day. These Starobradets believe that,
since the year 1666, no new, genuine saints have been dis
covered, and they have also adopted a different manner from
the Greeks of making the sign of the cross. The regular fol
lowers of the Church, in crossing themselves, extend the
thumb, first and second fingers, pinching the ends together,
and closing the third and fourth fingers. The Starobradets
object to this mode, because, in making the cross, from the
arrangement of the fingers one appears to be taking a pinch
of snuff, and tobacco in any shape they consider unclean.
They extend the first, second, and fourth fingers, closing the
thumb and third finger.
When Innocentia was canonized, a beautiful and costly im
age of him was placed in the principal church in Irkoutsk as
an object of worship, before which large candles were kept
constantly burning for a long time. At that time one of the
Starobradets applied for permission to burn a candle before
the image, without difficulty convincing the priests of his
conversion to their belief, since so great a saint as Innocentia
had been discovered, one whose authenticity could not be de
nied. His request was granted, and he soon returned with a
large, beautifully-decorated candle, which was placed before
the image with great ceremony, and all congratulated them
selves that one of the unbelievers should finally become con
vinced of his error, and return to the fold of the true Church.
Late at night, one ofthe many priests connected with the
church was suddenly awakened by a voice commanding him
to go and extinguish that candle. He rubbed his eyes, and
glanced around his small, almost vacant chamber, thinking
some one was in his room. The moon gave sufficient light
for him to see distinctly, but no one was to be seen. After

THE STAROBRADETS.— A MIRACLE. 209
watching and listening some minutes, and seeing or hearing
nothing, he felt satisfied that he had been dreaming, and soon
fell into a sound sleep again.
A second time he was awakened by the same commanding
voice, accompanied by a shaking, as though some one wished
to arouse him suddenly. This time he opened his eyes quickly
and sat up in bed, a cold sweat standing out upon his person.
Every thing was as still as death; nothing to be seen but
the rough, scanty furniture in his apartment, which was un
disturbed, and had the same appearance as before. But his
mind was troubled. He could not account for the strange
voice that had for the second time aroused him from a sound
sleep, and for the rough manner in which he had been shaken.
He had seen or heard nothing while awake, and, thinking it
might have been merely a dream, did not dare to take upon
himself the responsibility of extinguishing the candle. Over
come with fear, he threw himself trembling upon the bed, but
his mind was in such an agitated state that he could not sleep.
Hearing nothing, he gradually became more composed, and
fell into a troubled doze, sound repose soon following.
Again he was awakened by the same command, and was
violently thrown upon the floor from his bed. Confused and
frightened, he rushed from his apartment and aroused all the
Church officials, to whom he related the incidents ofthe night.
A grave consultation was held immediately to investigate the
matter, at the end of which they decided to extinguish the
candle, and proceeded forthwith to the church. Upon ex
amination, it was found that the candle was loaded with
powder for the purpose of destroying the image, and that it
was extinguished just in time to prevent the explosion.
Monday, December 18th (New Style), was also a great
prasnik — St. Nikolai's day, upon which all are privileged to
get drunk without fear of punishment. The whole of Oud
skoi, Cossacks in uniform included, attended service at the
church. At the close of the service, while the congregation
were kissing the image of St. Nikolas, six discharges were
fired from three small brass pieces mounted upon a snow
bank. Yakov, our old Cossack, seemed to have command of
the battery. He very bravely loaded the pieces, but ran
when they were discharged.

210 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
In the afternoon the priest and dichok, with a choir of
young Cossacks, took a large crucifix and basin of holy wa
ter, and proceeded to the different houses to bless the images
in each, for which services they receive a fee from each fam
ily. This money, together with sums paid from time to time
by the friends of persons deceased for passports to enable
the dead to enter the gates of heaven, and for other similar
services, are, I am told, considered the perquisites of the
priest. The Church and all its rites appear to be a grand farce
when conducted by such a man as the father in this place.
Gambling is his principal pastime, and once or twice since we
have been here it has been necessary to ring the church-bells
the second and even the third time to call him from his game
in order to conduct the services. They have a saying in this
country that " He is so great a rascal they will not even make
a priest of him."
Oudskoi is in such an isolated position, and is so difficult
of access, that the authorities rarely, if ever, take the trouble
to investigate the manner in which affairs are conducted;
consequently, both the priest and ispravnik have great scope
for exercising their authority, and do things with impunity
that would not be permitted under the supervision of their
superiors. On the 13th of December, the Tungusian whom we had dis
patched for deer returned with a number of other natives,
from whom, after a good deal of parleying, we obtained six
teen animals for our journey to Ajan. At that place we ex
pected to procure others. But none of these men were ac
quainted with the country east of the Juggur Mountains,
which we intended to explore for the route of the line, conse
quently we could procure no guides.
The only route ever pursued by natives in going from this
district to that of Ajan is a very long and circuitous one, by
the way of Yakoutsk, or the Maimikan River, far inland; but
as this would necessitate very long and difficult transporta
tions of supplies and material for the construction ofthe tel
egraph line, we determined to find, if possible, a more direct
route between the Juggur Mountains and the sea, and one
upon which depots could be established accessible to whale-

OUTFIT FROM OUDSKOI. 211
boats or canoes ascending many ofthe small rivers that have
their rise in this range, and that flow into the Okhotsh Sea.
The two natives who were to accompany us were very du
bious about attempting such a long journey in an unknown
country ; but we showed them our compasses, and explained
to them how the little instruments would guide us if we be
came lost, and, after persuading and offering them liberal in
ducements, they consented to make the attempt. We our
selves had strong misgivings as to the practicability of the
route we wished to pursue, but felt confident that, should we
fail in the enterprise, we could, by some means or other, find
our way across the main range, and strike one of the tribu
taries of the Maimikan, which we would follow to its junc
tion with ine Lena Rivei, or until we scruck the post-road
between Ajan and Yakoutsk ; but this latter route might oc
cupy us two months, and, consequently, little would be ac
complished in establishing a route for the line.
Our Oudskoi friends were as anxious for our safety as our.
Nikolayefsk friends had been, and declared that they could
not be hired to undertake the journey ; at the same time, in
the way of consolation, they entertained us with fearful ac
counts of'poorgas," and of men and deer being blown from
the mountain-tops and never again heard of.
We laid in another complete outfit of supplies, consisting
of tea, beef, sugar, and " sukarie," or black bread dried in
small cakes ; also some Yakout butter, which is made without
salt, and a few pounds of milk, the latter as a luxury. The
reader must not be astonished at my estimating the quantity
of milk by the pound. At this season of the year it is no
longer a liquid. When once frozen, it can be carried in a
bag for the rest ofthe winter, small pieces being chopped off
with the hatchet for use as wanted. We also, before start
ing, cut our meat up into small pieces suitable for cooking on
the road : this precaution saved us a good deal of delay and
hard work in preparing our meals in camp. We had already
engaged a supply of ukale from old Guilioff in Algasee. After
having procured a fresh supply of fur socks and boots, and
several good pair of snow-shoes (as we expected to make a
great part ofthe coming journey on foot), we were once more
prepared for the road.

212 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
The next day we started off Ivan, our new Cossack, with
the Tungusians and deer, for Algasee, for which place we our
selves proposed leaving as soon as some dog-sleds that were
expected from there should arrive.
On the eve of our departure the ispravnik gave us a fare
well " vechourka," which did not differ from the first, except
that a Tungusian dance was performed by four damsels for
our especial benefit. Having stationed themselves upon the
floor with arms crossed and hands joined, they swung slowly
round in a circle, accompanying each step by a most hideous
grunt, that seemed to come from the inmost depths of their
bodies: this composed the music. With each grunt they
made a short, quick squat ofthe body, their movements grad
ually becoming more rapid as the dance progressed. They
then went through a series of very ridiculous, indescribable
calisthenics, twisting their bodies, whirling on their heels, and
throwing their arms and hands into every conceivable posi
tion. These movements were kept up until the throats ofthe
dancers became so sore that they could no longer grunt, and
then the dance ended.

A RUSSIAN PARTING. 213

CHAPTER XIV.
A Russian Parting.— Cossack Parade and Parting Salute.— A Night Jour
ney. — Tungusian Hunter. — Deer devoured by Wolves. — Off for Ajan. —
Along the Sea-shore.— The Cliffs. —Ice-bench. —Difficult Passage.— Anti-
kan River.— Christmas Eve.— A Winter Camp Scene.— Difficult Journal
izing.^ — The Day's Journey. — Goram River. — Unfavorable Prospect. —
Christmas.— Cold and difficult Traveling.— A fruitless Effort.— Our In
tentions. — Grand Scenery. — Cache and Fox-trap. — Scurvy. — A Consulta
tion and Conclusion. — Arduous Traveling. — Burned Land. — Activity es
sential.— Uncertainty.— Frostbites.— The coldest yet.— Telefbnt and his
Scurvy.— Routine of Camping.— Thawing out— >' Chi gotova."— Source
ofthe Goram.— On the Summit of the Juggur.— The View. —Difficult De
scent.— Misled by Wild Deer.— Another hard Climb. — Swollen Ankle.
Tuesday, December 19th. — Clear and cold. This morning
the thermometer indicated —18° Fahrenheit. We were up
early getting our baggage in readiness to start for Algasee
with the nartas that arrived yesterday, and, after breakfast
ing, adjourned to the ispravnik's as he had requested. Sev
eral times we essayed to depart, but each time the departure
was postponed to take one more farewell drink of alcohol.
After sitting in our furs for several minutes we arose to go,
and then commenced the ceremony of bidding a Russian fare
well. Each individual, male and female, old and young, hand
some and homely, had to be kissed three times ; for, though
we would have much preferred omitting this part of the cer
emony, they all expected it, and we had to comply with the
custom. We then seated ourselves for a few moments, during
which not a word was spoken, at the end of which time we
were in the proper state of both mind and body to commence
our journey. As we emerged from the door the Cossacks of
the place were drawn up in line on one side of the door with
muskets, and all the other inhabitants were strung out oppo
site them, paraded in honor of our departure. After " pre
senting" arms, the Cossacks went through the manual for our
edification, and, when our dogs started, a parting salute of
three volleys was fired. The ispravnik accompanied us two
or three versts, when the parting ceremony was repeated, and
we turned our backs on Oudskoi probably forever, though we

214 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
did not think it at the time. Recent snow-storms had nearly
destroyed the beaten roads, on account of which our progress
was rather slow, and it was two o'clock the next morning be
fore we arrived at the huts of Algasee. The thermometer
stood at —13° Fahrenheit all night, but we managed to keep
warm trotting by the sides of the sleds most of the time.
At Algasee we found a Tungusian hunter, from whom we
learned that if it should be necessary to cross the Juggur
range, we could do so by following his trail up the " Goram"
River, which was about one hundred and fifty versts distant,
and then cross to a tributary of the Maimikan, where his fam
ily were camped. He intended returning soon to his home,
and would probably overtake us somewhere on the trail. Our
deer had arrived two days before, and were at a feeding-
ground about three versts distant, where our men watched
them by turns.
On the morning of December 21st, one ofthe men came in
with the discouraging news that wolves had eaten two of our
best deer during the night before, and that eight others were
missing. We at once started a number of men out to bring
in the remainder and hunt up the missing ones. Those miss
ing they afterward found, and brought into Algasee. It was
now too late to supply the places ofthe two killed, so we de
termined to push on, two of us walking upon snow-shoes un
til our loads should be sufficiently diminished to require two
less pack-deer, and then we would all be mounted again, un
less others should be lost in the mean time. We started at 2
o'clock P.M., taking a northwest course from Algasee through
the woods. This course we followed for about ten versts,
and then camped. After allowing our deer to feed a while,
we tied them up around the camp-fire, as on a former occa
sion, to protect them from wolves, whose tracks dotted the
whole country. Thermometer, 6 P.M., —2° Fahrenheit.
We left camp the next morning with a strong southwest
wind blowing clouds of snow against our backs. Swartz and
I pushed ahead on snow-shoes for about three versts, when
we came to the sea-shore. Here abrupt cliffs made down to
the water's edge, so we waited for the deer to come up. The
bay appeared to be frozen as far out as our sight extended,
the ice near shore being exceedingly rough and hummocky.

ROUGH TRAVELING.— CHRISTMAS EVE. 215
This was probably occasioned by storms and strong tides,
which broke up the early freezings of the winter, and after
ward, as the ice lay piled and jammed together, it had become
re-frozen. Clinging to the sides of the cliff, all along the
shore, was a thick shelf or bench of ice about fifteen feet
above the existing level of the sea. The ice below was too
rotten to risk our deer upon, and the cliffs could not be
scaled, so but one alternative was left to us, that of working
our way along the ice-bench. This, upon trial, proved to be
Very dangerous as well as difficult, on account ofthe narrow
ness of the belt in places, and the smoothness of the. ice,
which afforded very uncertain footing for ourselves as well
as deer. Now and then we encountered large gaps, where
huge blocks of the ice had loosened from the cliff and fallen ;
at such places our deer and packs had to be lowered by seal-
thong lines to the jagged masses below, and, after passing the
chasms, hauled up again by main strength. This kind of trav
eling continued for fully a mile, after which we no longer met
with any difficulty.
While rounding these cliffs we sustained quite a serious
loss in having several of our snow-shoes badly broken ; but,
fortunately, most of them could be repaired so as to be of far
ther use. Fifteen versts farther we arrived at the mouth of
the Antikan River, a small stream emptying into the Okhotsk
Sea. Here we ascended a precipitous bluff, and followed the
trail of the Tungusian hunter, which led farther inland over
a large barren. About seven versts beyond the bluff we came
to good feeding-ground, near which were the frames of Tun
gusian tents standing, over one of which we spread our tent
and camped for the night.
Our next clay's journey was over an undulating country,
interspersed with barrens and patches of woods, lying be
tween the foot-hills of the Juggur range and the sea. As
we advanced the foot-hills increased in magnitude, and at
night they had assumed the grander proportions of moun
tains, crowned with high bald peaks. At noon we crossed
quite a large stream that we took for the Goram, but after
ward found that we were mistaken.
Sunday, December 24th. — This is Christmas Eve, a night
of rejoicing throughout the world. How the little hearts

216 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
are bounding at this moment in joyous anticipations of the
presents and bonbons good Chi-is Krinkle is about to bestow
upon them ! And yet how many poor little hearts are ach
ing to think that there is no good Santa Claus to attend to
their wants ! Yes, wants ; for this very night there are
thousands of homeless little orphans wandering through the
gay, brilliantly-lighted streets ofthe great, magnificent cities
of the world, to whom a crust of bread would be acceptable.
Many such are now clustering around the gay shop-windows
with barely clothing enough to protect their emaciated little
bodies from the cold winds, and are feasting their eyes upon
the good things destined for others, while hunger and starv
ation are gnawing at their vitals. Little do these gayly-
dressed parties, dashing over the hard snow to the merry
jingling of sleigh-bells, making the clear, keen atmosphere
ring with their songs and laughter, dream of the poor moth
ers and widows who are toiling at the needle by scant light,
striving to get the wherewithal to clothe and feed their little
ones. For "these there is no Christmas. There are tears
enough of grief and agony being shed this night to drown
the merriment of half the world.
But my musings on the inside world have almost made me
forget ourselves and present surroundings away off here in
this desolate frozen country, entirely cut off from all commu
nication with friends and civilization. But it is not so bad,
after all. A strip of deerskin stretched around a half circle
of poles shelters us from the cold wind, and before us glows
and crackles an immense camp-fire, the flames and sparks of
which rise and circle among the thick branches of the fir-
trees beneath which we are lying.
Mahood and Swartz are comfortably reclining on their
beds of fur, enjoying a social chat and smoke, while Ivan de
votes his whole attention to the beefsteak and wild onions
he is preparing for our Christmas Eve dinner. Our Tungu
sians are flying about bareheaded, their usually black, frowsy
hair perfectly white with the frost of their breath. One of
them is bringing in armsful of wood and replenishing the
fire, while the other is busily engaged chopping up a huge
piece of ice he has just brought from the Goram River (near
which we are camped) for the purpose of melting it to make

JOURNALIZING IN SIBERIA. 217
tea. Our saddles and packs are strewn around on the snow,
and beyond, the tree-trunks, reflecting the light of our camp-
fire, stand out like spectres from the darkness. Here and
there one of our deer becomes visible as the flames shoot up
afresh, and pauses in his feeding as if to note our proceedings.
To complete the scene, you must imagine the writer, clothed
in furs from head to foot, seated cross-legged near the fire,
with his leather -covered document -box by his side, upon
which dimly burns a piece of candle. His thick glass ink
stand is placed in the hot ashes, to keep the ink from freez
ing. He dips his pen in the ink, and proceeds to record some
brilliant idea or incident in his journal; but in the midst of
the sentence the ink thickens on his pen and refuses to make
a mark, when he thrusts it into the blaze of the candle and
thaws it out to complete the sentence. This is journalizing
in the open air in Siberia. My journal shows to this day the
heavy black lines made by the ink as it gradually thickened
from cold at the commencement of words, and the fine lines
that immediately follow the result ofthe thawing. I used a
pencil at the commencement of my journalizing, but the char
acters soon became so obliterated that I could hardly deci
pher them, when I decided that it would be cheaper' in the
end to take a little extra trouble and use ink.
But Ihave said nothing of our day's journey as yet. From
last night's camp we took a northerly course over a country
similar to that of the day before, occasionally crossing wood
ed spurs running down to the sea, and then passing wide
stretches of barren land from which the snow was in many
places entirely swept away by strong winds. Toward night
we found ourselves abreast of a large gap in the mountain
range to our left, and at sunset stood upon a high bluff look
ing down upon the almost dry bed of a large stream, about
a quarter of a mile in width, which flowed from the gap in
the mountains, and wound its way down to the sea, distant
about three miles to the right. This we knew must be the
Goram, but there was very little water in it, probably owing
to the springs at its sources being frozen up. We had to un
load the deer and slide them separately down the bluff about
two hundred feet to the river-bed, which was strewn with
large boulders and trunks of trees.

218 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
A few versts ahead of us, to the north, the mountain range
ran down to the sea, and terminated in very high cliffs. Be
yond these other very high mountains appeared, which dis
couraged us from making the attempt to reach Ajan by fol
lowing up the coast. We did not find deer-food until long
after dark, so concluded not to pitch our tent. To-morrow —
Christmas Day — we will strike up the Goram with the hope
of finding a passage to the northward, west of the mountain
range. Christmas Day. — We started up the Goram this morning,
facing a cold, cutting wind that swept down the gap. As
the river was covered with smooth ice, we had to travel in
the woods on account of our deer. At one place we thought
we detected a passage to the north, which we attempted;
but, after climbing several hundred feet up the mountain
side, we found ourselves confronted by an immense chasm,
and our elevation disclosed other and higher ridges beyond,
which discouraged us from proceeding farther in that direc
tion. With great difficulty we reached the bottom of the chasm
and once more headed for the Goram, intending to try and
find the old trail, and follow it until we should find an open
ing to the northward. Failing in this, all we could do would
be to cross the main range and follow down the Maimikan.
The scenery here was perfectly grand. The Goram winds
through an immense chasm, on both sides high, rugged moun
tains rising to the height of thousands of feet. The bases of
the mountains are clothed with dense forests of larch, but
their summits are bald and snow-clad. In many places the
river-bed is bordered by very high, picturesque cliffs and
frowning precipices, to pass which we had to drag our deer
over the smooth ice.
The next day some of our deer were quite badly hurt fall
ing on the ice. We continued to ascend the Goram, the moun
tains gradually assuming still grander proportions. Riding
was out ofthe question, as we all had to work hard dragging
and assisting the deer. At night we arrived at the mouth
of a good-sized tributary flowing apparently from the north,
which we concluded to follow the next day. At the mouth
of this river was a meat cache, erected on poles and built of

A FOX- TRAP.

219

logs. The under side of it was gnawed and torn by the teeth
of foxes and wolves, where they had jumped up from beneath
and snapped with their teeth, trying to get at the meat in
side. There was also a fox-trap near this, constructed much
like our " dead-falls." At night our Tungusians complained
of swollen feet and legs, which showed every symptom of the
scurvy, but, as we had no medicine of any kind, we could do
nothing for them. We camped in the open air near the
mouth of this river.

FOX-TEAF.

December 21th. — Thermometer indicated —22° Fahrenheit.
When we awoke, our beards and fur hoods were frozen to
gether in a solid mass of ice. Swartz and I started in ad
vance up this stream to see whether or not it would be pos
sible for our deer to get along. We went a mile on smooth
glassy ice, covered in places with water, for which we could
not account at this temperature.
Beetling cliffs arose from the river on both sides, so that
there was no possibility of getting along except on the ice.
We returned to camp and reported the prospects, when a con
sultation was held to decide upon our next step. Our men
were all frightened at the idea of pushing up through an un
known chasm, fearing we might get lost in the mountains in

220 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
a poorga, and lose some of our deer. We did not know
where it would lead us to, and, taking into consideration that
we were already short of deer, and our men afflicted with the
scurvy, or something of'the same nature, which nearly unfit
ted them for the arduous traveling we were having, we de
cided that we were not prepared to risk it, even if we could
get our deer along. Once more we headed up the Goram,
hoping to find some Tungusian hunter to guide us, in which
case, if not too late, we would retrace our steps should it be
necessary. On the Maimikan we would probably encounter natives,
and, in the case of necessity, could procure other deer or pro
vision, while by this route we could expect neither, and, being
wholly unacquainted with the country, might be months wan
dering about in these mountains. The scenery increased in
grandeur, and traveling became more arduous. All hands
were constantly employed dragging and assisting the deer.
This traveling was very wearing on them, with their heavy
packs. At dark we struck burnt land, when our men, being
exhausted, wished to camp. But the fire had destroyed all
deer-food, so we pushed on, lighted on our way by a magnifi
cent moon, and camped about midnight, not having found
feed for our deer. Thermometer, 8 P.M., —22° Fahrenheit.
The next morning, the 28th, the thermometer indicated
—22° Fahrenheit. Our deer were very much used up by the
traveling ofthe preceding days, and the loss of food showed
its effects upon them. We immediately pushed on, not even
waiting to prepare breakfast, hoping to find deer-food soon,
when we intended to stop and allow them to feed. The
country was covered with the tracks of wolves and wild
deer. Having gone five versts, we found a spot on the op
posite bank of the river that the fire had not reached, and,
after allowing our deer two hours to feed, we again pushed
up the gorge, first traveling on one side, then crossing the
smooth ice to the other, as the nature ofthe banks ofthe river
permitted. We had not been traveling fifteen minutes be
fore our beards and fur hoods were covered with ice, though
the exertion of snow-shoeing and labor of assisting the deer
kept us in constant perspiration.
After once becoming warm, and having our under-clothing

COLD TRAVELING. 221
dampened, we were compelled to exercise violently until the
time for camping, to prevent the moisture next our bodies
from freezing, which might prove dangerous. This necessity
for exercising I found very inconvenient as well as painful,
having badly sprained my ankle early in the day. Being
damp with perspiration, I was unable to ride my deer for
fear of becoming frozen.
A recent fall of snow had obliterated all traces of the old
trail, and we encountered so many other streams and canons
making into the one we had been following that we were en
tirely at a loss to know which of them to follow, but kept in
each case the larger. This we intended to follow to the sum
mit ofthe range, and then trust to fortune upon reaching the
other side, should we not be on the route.
The next day my ankle was so badly swollen that I had to
ride all the time, though the cold appeared to be intense.
Swartz froze his nose, and did not even know of it until Ivan
told him ; a speedy application of snow soon restored it, how
ever. Nature furnishes the remedy with the evil.
At 3.15 P.M. it was nearly dark, so we camped. It would
hardly have been possible to- recognize any individual of our
party at the time we camped. Beards, mustaches, and furs
were cemented together by a solid mass of ice, and even our
eyebrows and eyelashes were frosted, making us look more
like a troop of patriarchs on a pilgrimage than a band of
young men on an exploring expedition. Our Tungusian,
Telefont, froze his chin and toes. We rather mistrusted that
it was uncommonly cold, and, upon consulting the thermom
eter, found that the spirit had fallen to —35° Fahrenheit, the
coldest weather, by far, I had ever experienced.
Poor Telefont suffers a good deal from his feet and legs,
which are badly swollen and breaking out in sores. But we
are many long days' journey from any settlement, the near
est being Algasee ; and, unless we encounter some Tungusian
hunter from whom to procure other deer, so that he may ride
oftener, I fear he will have to undergo a great deal more pain.
Sickness and disease are bad enough when surrounded by all
the care and comforts of home, but to be taken ill away up
here on the summit ofthe Juggur, in midwinter, is fearful.
As soon as the deer are unloaded, all hands go lustily at

222 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
work with snow-shoes, digging in the snow and clearing a
space to the ground large enough to pitch our tent in. By
the time this is done the Tungusians have the poles ready for
our tent-frame, over which to stretch the canvas. In the
mean while the remainder cut boughs or small branches
upon which to spread our beds. Ivan, the Cossack, is inval
uable. The space for the tent is hardly cleared before he is
on his knees in the middle of it, with his flint and steel mak
ing the sparks fly, and, before the tent is fairly erected, he
has a blazing fire, over which our tea-kettles are suspended,
full of ice or snow melting for tea. Then comes the unhar
nessing, or ridding ourselves of our heavy fur outer garments.
Having first taken the precaution to thaw out, by the appli
cation of snow, any portion of our faces or hands that may
be frozen, we all stoop around the blaze, putting our heads
as close to it as we dare, and patiently wait for the ice to
melt from our beards, so that we can throw off our furs, to
which our beards invariably become cemented by the conge
lation of our breath. This occupies from fifteen to twenty
minutes generally, at the end of which Ivan makes that most
agreeable of all announcements to a frozen traveler, Chi goto-
va — (" Tea is ready.")
We rarely stop short of four steaming hot cups of tea, and
even six are not considered extravagant. Our pipes are then
filled, when the fragrant smoke absorbs h.11 care and weari
ness resulting from the day's journey, and drifts off with it
through the smoke-hole at the top of the tent. We then eat
our supper of boiled deer-meat or beef, and " sukarie," after
which the others retire, and I write up my journal.
We still adhere to the practice of undressing at night, re
gardless of temperature, and find that we sleep equally as
comfortably, and endure the cold better than if we retained
our outer clothing while sleeping. Every night, before the
fire dies out, we take the precaution of turning our furs,
socks and all, and drying them thoroughly for use the next
day. Without this precaution, our feet and hands, at least,
would be almost certain to freeze. Each morning we bathe
our faces and hands in melted snow, and, after tea and boiled
beef, strike out on the day's journey, making a lunch on the
road from ukale, or dried fish.

THE SUMMIT OF THE JUGGUR. 223
The next morning it was still very cold, th'e thermometer
indicating —31° Fahrenheit. As we advanced up the valley
(if it may be so called, though it was a canon on a grand
scale) the snow increased in depth, and the river diminished
in size until our deer could jump across it. We had been
gradually ascending since we first struck the Goram, Christ
mas Eve, and by this time, December 30th, had attained quite
an elevation.
At 12.30 the stream dwindled to nothing, and was lost in
the deep snow of the gorge. Here all signs of vegetation
ceased, and we were confronted by a high barren ridge, which
we supposed was the summit of the range. The view from
the top was grand, but our hearts failed us when we saw that
the ridge dipped abruptly on the western slope, and disclosed
a deep basin or gulch, beyond which was another range to be
crossed, unless we could find our way around the head of the
valley. We were standing on the summit of the highest
range of mountains in Eastern Siberia, confronted by a deep
wild chasm, in which large trees resembled straws. Back of
us the gorge we had been following six days wound its way
for miles among lofty bald peaks, the dark woods thousands
of feet below becoming more and more indistinct as the dis
tance increased. On all sides towered still above us other
peaks in their solemn majesty, while a silence that was death
like hung over all. Fortunately the day was clear, though
cold. On the ridge were fresh deer-tracks, which we at first took
to be a hunter's trail. We attempted to follow them along
the narrow ridge, but were soon conducted to a high peak,
along whose steep icy sides neither ourselves nor our loaded
deer could pass. This satisfied us that wild deer had made
the tracks. There was no alternative but to descend into
the basin, and, having selected a long spur which appeared
less steep than at any other place, we started down. The
snow was so hard and crusted that we could get no foothold,
therefore had'to use all our efforts to avoid slipping, in which
case there would be no stopping until we reached bottom, or
brought up against some of the tree-trunks far below.
The descent was particularly hard for our pack-deer, whose
packs were constantly slipping forward on to their heads and

224 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
necks, making it necessary each time to stop the train and fix
the loads before proceeding. The opposite ridge was equally
as steep, but the snow was soft and deep. To break a path
for our deer, we had to use both hands and feet, and with
each step sank waist deep. In places the deer had to be as
sisted up separately, so that a long time was consumed in
reaching the top. This ridge was the main divide between
the waters flowing eastward into the Okhotsk Sea and those
flowing westward into the Lena River, which empties into
the Arctic Ocean upward of two thousand miles distant.
We descended into a wide, shallow, wooded basin, travel
ing about three versts from the summit, and, as ourselves
and deer were completely exhausted, camped. My ankle
had pained me very much all day, and at night was so much
worse as to cause me some uneasiness. By night the ther
mometer showed a diminution of cold, the spirit standing at
— 13° Fahrenheit.

A LOST TRAIL, 325

CHAPTER XV.
Indications of a Poorga. — Signs of an Encampment. — Deserted Camp. —
Signals. — Lost Trail. — Hunters' Camp on the Maimikan. — Charge of
Reindeer. — Tungusian Beauty. — Alexai. — Engaging a Guide. — New-
year's Day. — Celebration. — Making- Calls. — The Tent. — Beautiful Phe
nomenon. -'—Mock Moons. — New-year's Dinner. — False Alarm. — Cold
Weather. — On the Back Track.-1— Driving Snow. — Lobla River. — Aston
ishing eating Capacity. — A Tungusian Supper. — Improvidence. — The
Yakouts as Eaters. — Cruel Mode of Killing Horses. — Fox-traps. — The
Goram again. — The Econda River. — Keen Scent of Reindeer. — Kedrov-
nik. — Crossing Kela Khrebet. — Cutting Wind and Frostbites. — Snow-
shoeing. — Undermined. — Crashing through the Ice.— Neamur River and
Valley. — Ephraim Caramsin, the Bear-hunter. — Light Snow. — Method of
Snaring Bears. — Mountain Sheep.
In the morning it was much milder, —8° Fahrenheit, and
a light snow falling. Although Ivan and Telefont were both
unwell, we pushed on to find a more sheltered spot, as there
were indications of a poorga. We took a northwest course,
following the outlet of the basin, and, though the snow was
deep, succeeded in making a tolerable trail for the deer with
our snow-shoes. After going about four versts, we came to
an old trail nearly obliterated by drifted snow ; this we fol
lowed until we came to another, comparatively fresh, near
which were recent snow-shoe tracks. Thinking we must be
in the neighborhood of some habitation, we followed these,
hoping to learn of our whereabouts as well as to obtain extra
deer. About noon we came to a large number of fresh deer-
tracks, which showed that the animals had been feeding at
the place some time, and a little beyond we found a deserted
encampment. The poles of the tent-frame were freshly cut,
and the space formerly covered by the tent was free from
snow — signs of recent evacuation. Erected on high poles
were rolls of birch-bark, deer-harness, and some cooking uten
sils, showing that the place was temporarily abandoned; and
three leaning poles planted in the snow indicated the direc
tion the family had gone. From these' indications,.we knew
that the parties were expecting some one who was absent at
P

226 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
the time they moved, consequently settled in our minds that
the encampment was that of the hunter we had seen in Alga
see. Having taken the direction indicated by the leaning poles
and followed it about three versts, we lost the trail, but after
ward again found it on the west side of a low ridge, and in
half an hour's time came to a Tungusian tent, about which
were feeding twenty or thirty reindeer. These deer made a
charge down on our train as soon as we came in sight, and a
short fight ensued, but they were finally driven away, and
not many minutes elapsed before the. band was peacefully
grazing with our -own animals. An encounter took place
afterward, however, in which there was a good deal of clash
ing of horns, but no injury done. I have represented the
scene in the frontispiece of this volume.
As we had supposed, it was the hunter's encampment, but
the hunter had not yet returned. Though there was but one
tent, eight persons came forth to welcome us — two men, two
women, and four children. One of the women, the wife of
the hunger, was the finest specimen of Tungusian beauty we
had seen. She appeared very pretty, for by this time we had
become accustomed to the cast of features of these people.
We learned that we were on the head of the Maimikan, but
the natives knew nothing ofthe route we had taken to reach
it. We had lost our way, and it was only good fortune that
enabled us to strike their encampment.
Alexai, one of the men who lived somewhere upon the
route we had wished to take to reach Ajan, told us that, had
we continued up the stream Swartz and I started up the pre
vious Wednesday, after going a few versts we would have
found better traveling, and would have been on the right
route. He also informed us that, should we retrace our steps,
we would reach Ajan much sooner than if we continued on
by way ofthe Maimikan, and expressed a willingness to guide
us if we would pay him. We were but too glad to accept
his services. After a good deal of bargaining, our Tungusians
got two deer for themselves, so that we once more felt confi
dent, and were ready for the road. Alexai had his own deer
and provision, but could not start for two days, as he wished
to make himself a pair of snow-shoes. To this we readily

NEW-YEAR' S DA Y. 227
consented, to allow our deer a resting-spell, hoping also that
Ivan and Telefont would be in better traveling condition by
the time we were ready to start again. The hunter returned
that night, though by a different route from the one taken
by us.
January 1st. — At 8 o'clock AM., —31° Fahrenheit. The
commencement of a new year. Feeling that we ought to
celebrate the day in some manner, we decided to do so by
changing our clothing, which we had worn since leaving
Oudskoi. This was not such a trifling celebration as the
reader may imagine, and called for much more pluck than
would be requisite in firing a national salute from 32-pound-
ers. A light canvas tent, through which we could see our
deer as they passed by on account of its thinness, and the
temperature of — 31?, made the operation any thing but agree
able. After breakfast we decided to make a New-year's call upon
our neighbors, and, though we could not speak a word with
them, our call was fully as enjoyable as New-year's calls usu
ally are. Their tent was constructed after the usual manner,
over a conical frame-work of light poles. Over these was
first spread a layer of birch-bark, sewed together in rolls, to
protect the nicely-dressed deerskin covering from sparks on
the inside. A small fire was burning in the centre of the
tent, which filled the inclosure with a dense smoke ; through
this smoke, by careful scrutiny, we could barely distinguish
a few squirrel and fox skins suspended to the tent-frame over
head, turned inside out, and drying. Loose deerskins were
spread around over a layer of boughs, upon which the occu
pants were seated, the women sewing upon skin garments,
and the men working upon snow-shoes or repairing deer-har
ness. We smoked and gazed until our eyes ached from the
dense smoke, when, thinking we had done our duty, we once
more retired to our own quarters.
Outside the atmosphere appeared to be filled with fine
frozen particles like mist, though overhead the heavens were
perfectly clear. At this time we witnessed one of those
beautiful phenomena of which arctic travelers make frequent
mention. The brilliancy of the sun was so subdued by the
particles of crystallized atmosphere that we could gaze upon

228 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
it with the naked eye. About it was described a large lu
minous circle, faintly tinted with the rainbow colors, upon
which were three dazzling parhelions or mock suns, one per
pendicularly over the sun, and the remaining two one on
either side, equidistant above the horizon. From each of
these parhelions extended a bright train of light in contrary
directions from the real sun, and the arcs of three other cir
cles similar to the first were distinctly seen, one directly over
and the other upon each side of the first circle, and coming
in contact with it at the points occupied by the parhelions. ~
The phenomenon was very beautiful, and lasted about two
hours. In the evening we witnessed a similar appearance in
connection with the moon, which, however, was far less bril
liant. Just as we were about seating ourselves cross-legged upon
the ground to enjoy our usual dinner of boiled beef, we re
membered having a small can of roast turkey packed away
somewhere among our provisions, and thinking this a suita
ble time to break into it, we induced Ivan to hunt it up and
cook it.
If the box had not been labeled " Roast Turkey," none of
us could have had the slightest conception of the nature of
the meat ; but, thanks to good appetites and strong imagina
tions, we heartily enjoyed the treat. When the dish was
nearly emptied, upon glancing up I saw a look of perfect
consternation on Swartz's countenance, while he curiously
eyed a small bone that he was holding at arm's length be
tween his fingers.
" Why, what's the matter ?" I said.
" Cat ! by George, it's a cat ! I've been trying to swallow
one of the tail-joints."
At this startling announcement our jaws stopped working,
and we were for some moments undecided whether to swal
low that contained in our mouths or to eject it, though we
decided upon the former. An examination of the unlucky
bone immediately followed, when Ivan relieved our minds by
the announcement that it was the neck -joint of some fowl
that he did not know, and in a very few moments the cat,
turkey, or whatever it may have been, had vanished.
As we intended making an early start in the morning, we

A GASTRONOMIC FEAT. 229
soon retired, the thermometer indicating, at 7 o'clock P.M.,
—33° Fahrenheit.
The rest had greatly benefited all of us, and on the morn
ing of the second of January we once more .started out with
fresh vigor, having greater confidence in the ultimate success
of our explorations than at any previous time since leaving
Orell Lake.
We retraced our steps to the point beyond the deserted
encampment where we had first struck the old trail after
crossing the Juggur range, from which point Alexai, our
guide, took a more southerly course than the one previously
followed by us, and, after two hours' travel, with a strong
cold wind blowing against our backs, we found ourselves
once more east of the summit ridge, on the head-waters of
the Lobla River, a tributary of the Goram.
Keen crystallized particles of snow were flying in clouds
ahead of the fierce gusts of wind that swept down the gorge
we were following, but, coming from behind, we experienced
no great inconvenience from them, though, after camping, we
were in constant expectation of having our tent blown down
over our heads. All day long the temperature had ranged
from —17° to —22° Fahrenheit.
I had often heard large stories concerning the eating pow
ers of these northern natives, but had, up to this time, been
disposed to doubt many of them. This night, however, we
witnessed one of their moderate meals, which caused all my
former skepticism to vanish.
Upon starting in the morning, some article had been left
behind at the Tungusian encampment, and we sent one of our
men back to get it. He did not again overtake us until we
had been in camp two hours. After pitching the tent and
arranging the camp, Telefont and Alexai, the two remaining
Tungusians, sat down to a gallon-kettle of hot tea, and did
not leave it until they had emptied it of the last drop. They
then cooked a four-quart pailful of boiled fish and soup, the
contents of which they also devoured. By this time Zakhar,
the other Tungusian, came up, cold and hungry. The same
pail was then cooked twice full of boiled beef, which the three
emptied both times, even cracking the bones for the marrow.
Then, after rinsing the pail, they cooked it full of "crupa," a

230 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
kind of mush, which they ate as soon as it was prepared.
After all of this, either their appetites were not fully ap
peased, or else they feared to break off too abruptly, for they
commenced eating dried ukale, even devouring the fish-skins,
which they first broiled in the flames of the fire. All this oc
curred in our presence. Our tent not being large enough to
accommodate the whole party, it became necessary for the
guides to camp outside. They had no sooner got their camp-
fire started than they commenced the preparation of other
food, but I no longer attempted to keep an account of it.
The last thing I heard after retiring was the cracking of
beef-bones for the marrow.
The improvidence of these natives is equally as astonish
ing as their ravenousness. They will consume nearly a
week's provisions in one night, and go hungry the remaining
six days.
Swartz tells me that two years ago the Russian- American
Company sent to Yakoutski from Ajan for a number of horses,
which were intrusted to the care of six Yakouts. On the
road, one of the horses, by some accident, broke its leg and
had to be killed, it being unable to travel. At night the six
natives sat down to the carcass, and in the morning there was#
nothing left of it but the hide and bones. The head and in
testines were not even excepted.*
The Yakouts, notwithstanding their amiable and peaceful
dispositions, are generally very cruel toward animals. Their
favorite mode of killing a horse for food is to bind it down
strongly with cords, when the breast is cut open, and then
one of them, thrusting his arm into the cavity, kills the ani
mal by compressing its heart with his hand. They claim that
it gives the meat a better flavor.
The general course of the Lobla River, which we followed
to its junction with the Goram, was southeast, the scenery
corresponding to that of the branch we followed in making
the ascent — high, wild mountain ridges and peaks, with bald
summits buried in snow, and their bases covered with a thick
growth of larch-trees. On the way we passed a number of
fox-traps similar to the one we had previously seen on the
* I afterward heard this same statement from several other sources.

KEEN SCENT OF REINDEER. 231
Goram, all of which belonged to the hunters we had just left
on the Maimikan River.
We did not reach the Goram until 3 o'clock P.M., January
4th, when we struck our old trail and followed it until dark,
camping about two hours' travel above the mouth of the
Econda, the stream we were to take for our northward jour
ney. The mouth of the Lobla River was very narrow, and
so pinched in between bluffs upon each side that we were not
surprised at our passing it qn the upward route ; however, to
prevent any mistake in future, we blazed a large tree at the
entrance to the canon. During our first three days' journey
the temperature ranged between —4° and —25° Fahrenheit.
We started on the morning of the 5th, with the thermom
eter indicating —10°, and after two hours' travel reached our
old encampment at the mouth of the Econda, where we had
held our last consultation before deciding to follow the Go
ram. Taking our course up this stream, traveling mostly
upon the smooth ice, at 2 P.M. we came to a fork in the river,
one branch coming from the north and the other from the
northeast. Our guide took the northeast branch, which we
kept until dark, passing another tributary flowing from the
eastward, and camped upon an elevated plateau on the east
ern bank, where was an abundance of deer-food, though the
snow was quite deep. Reindeer have very acute scents, and,
though the snow may be six feet in depth, they can tell
whether there is any feed beneath it or not by simply putting
their noses to the snow. In deep snow it is very difficult for
them to procure their food by digging, but by nature they
are provided with such keen scents as to be able to tell the
exact spot where the moss grows, consequently their labor is
never in vain. Throughout this country grows a species of
dwarf pine, called by the Russians " kedrovnik." It rarely at
tains a greater height than three feet, but spreads its thick,
knotted branches horizontally over the ground, and is usually
buried up in the deep snows of winter. This bush we found
to be a sure indication of the proximity of deer-food, the
knowledge of which fact may be of some value to future
travelers in this region, if there should ever be any foolish
enough to undertake a jaunt among these mountains.
The next morning, January 6th, our thermometer indicated

232 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
—20° Fahrenheit. The valley widened as we advanced, and
the mountains on each side became less rugged. Larch,
spruce, white birch, and poplars grew in the bottoms and on
the hill-sides. We passed numerous forks and branches dur
ing the day's journey, up one of which an old trail led made
by some hunter: this would have certainly misled us had we
attempted this route without a guide. Even otherwise it
would have been utterly impossible for us to select the right
course from among the numerous branches we encountered,
and we frequently congratulated ourselves that we did not
undertake it. We could certainly have retraced our steps
unless overtaken by some accident, but months might have
been consumed in our wanderings, and nothing accomplished
toward the main object of our undertaking. We estimated
this day's journey at about thirty versts, which was a fair
average for deer-traveling in these mountains. At night
Alexai, our guide, came to us for provisions. He and the
other men had consumed nearly all his food which he had
provided for himself the first night, and now he was entirely
without. Though it was not in the agreement, we had from
this time forward to feed him from our own scanty stock, but
put him on allowance as a punishment, as well as to make
our own supplies hold out.
On the morning ofthe 7th of January the thermometer in
dicated — 22° Fahrenheit. As soon as the deer could be gath
ered together and loaded, we started forward, most of us trav
eling on snow-shoes on account of deep snow. After being
four hours on the road, we arrived at the head of the Econda
River, where all vegetation ceased, and the snow was hard
and crusted over sufficiently strong to bear up our deer.
Here we encountered a severe north wind blowing directly
in our faces from a high ridge in front. The snow drifted in
clouds, completely obscuring every thing, and making it nec
essary for us to keep within sight of each other, for fear of
becoming scattered and lost. The deer's hoofs were hardly
raised from the snow before their tracks filled with it, leav
ing no trail to guide any one that might be left behind.
After a long and difficult climb, facing the wind, we reached
the summit of the divide known as "Kela Khrebet," from the
name of a river that has its rise in it.

THE NEAMUR RIVER AND VALLEY. 233
Upon reaching the summit, our noses and faces were all
more or less frozen, but an application of snow soon restored
them. The northern side of the ridge was steep, arid the
snow hard for nearly three miles, offering such a fine field for
snow-shoe practice that we could not let it slip by ; so, once
more strapping on our snow-shoes, away we dashed at a very
rapid pace, sliding part of the time upon our feet, but a large
portion of the way sprawled out on our backs. A few min
utes brought us to timber below, where the snow was deep
and soft, and snow-shoeing so difficult that we made but slow
progress. This night our journey was continued until some time after
dark, in order to find food for the deer, and then, when we
camped, it was so late that we simply spread a few boughs
over the snow to lie on, building a large fire at our feet. We
found it a little cold undressing in the open air, with the
thermometer showing —25° Fahrenheit.
Upon awaking in the morning, our beds were half under
mined, and our feet and legs projecting over a pit about five
feet deep, occasioned by the melting of the snow around our
camp-fire. We traveled on show-shoes all day, breaking a
trail. Once or twice some of the deer broke through the ice
of Kela River, which in places had worn thin by the action
of the water underneath. Though many of the loads' were
wetted, they sustained no damage, as the moisture immedi
ately froze, forming an impervious coating of ice over them.
At night our Tungusians had to kill one of their deer for
food, a quarter of which we bought of them. The remaining
three quarters was nearly all gone by morning.
The next morning we all strapped on our snow-shoes again
and pressed forward, hoping that day to reach the Neamur
River, of which the Kela is a tributary. The country was
less rugged than that on the Econda, but still very hilly, and
the valley was wider.
About 2 P.M', just as we were approaching the Neamur,
my feet were so blistered from show-shoeing that I was com
pelled to ride. The ice on the Kela was covered with crys
tals, which prevented the deer from slipping, and made trav
eling excellent. While riding leisurely along, watchino- for
the first appearance of the Neamur, I was startled by hearino;

234 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
a fearful crashing sound, as though a large building was fall
ing about me, and instantaneously my deer dropped from be
neath me, I following him as rapidly as possible. We soon
brought up, and found that the ice had given way beneath,
letting us fall about five feet ; but, instead of getting wet,
we were on dry land. After the river had frozen over in the
beginning of winter, the waters had gradually subsided, leav
ing an, ice -roof about six feet above the present river-bed.
Beneath this we could see some distance up and down stream.
The Neamur at the mouth of the Kela is about four hun
dred yards wide, and cut up by numerous islands. It ap
peared to flow from a large valley far to the westward, its
banks being almost level for long distances on either side.
Our guide had told us that an old Tungusian hunter, named
Ephraim Caramsin, usually made his home upon this stream,
and from him we were anxious to renew our supply of fresh
meat. But where, to look for his habitation we were entirely
at a loss to know, since these hunters live hardly three con
secutive days in one locality.
With the hope of finding some old trail to guide us, we
pushed directly across the valley, keeping our course ; and
night coming on, camped about three miles north of the
river, in quite an extensive forest of larch-trees. The snow
here was not more than a foot in depth. This valley, the
guide informed us, was a great resort of bears, on which ac
count the old hunter had chosen it for his home. As a bear-
hunter, he has an extensive reputation ; annually about twen
ty of the animals become victims of his gun and snares.

NATIVE ENDURANCE 235

CHAPTER XVI.
Remarkable Endurance of Natives. — Meat Cache". — Encampment. — Sappho
— her Self-possession. — Tungusian Toys. — Artistic Talent. — The Test. —
Ephraim's Return. — Siberian Squirrels. — Tungusian Guns. — Economy.—
Trying Bear-meat. — Bestowing a Present. — The Consequences. — Ingrati
tude. — Reindeer Tongues. — Sheep-horn Spoons. — My first frozen Nose. —
Stupid Proceeding. — A tender Organ. — Precautions. — Mukta River. —
Orowa. — Monotony. — Daily Programme. — Diana and her Nymphs.—
Band of Tungusians. — Conveyance of Children. — Child's Costume. —
Naugtara River. — Squalls and driving Snow. — Tent down. — Warm Day.
— Maimai. — Hungry Deer. — Flight of a Nymph. — Ouey Khrebet. — Long,
hard Journey. — Post-road abandoned. — Our Anxiety. — The Station. — A
mixed-up Mess. — Exhausted. — Retire.
Cold seemed to have no effect upon these natives. Fre
quently, when we could not expose our ears for two minutes
without having them frozen, they would go for an hour at a
time with their hoods thrown back from their heads; and
when it required constant care and attention to keep our
noses from freezing, they did not appear to notice the tem
perature at all. The morning of January 10th I stood in
perfect amazement at their disregard of the low tempera
ture. They worked for at least half an hour with bare hands,
packing up the tent and utensils for loading upon the deer,
handling the packages and lashing them together with icy
seal-thongs, without experiencing the least inconvenience ap
parently, while I partly froze my fingers striking a light for
my pipe with a flint and steel, which did not occupy more
than three minutes' time.
The night before, happening to go out ofthe tent after our
men had retired, I passed their camp, which was near by.
Their fire had burned to a pile of embers, barely affording
me light enough to distinguish the sleepers. They were lying
coiled up on small deerskins, with their backs to the embers,
and their fur coats thrown loosely over their naked bodies.
The coat of one of them — Telefont — had slipped almost en
tirely off his body, leaving his back and shoulders exposed to
a temperature of — 18° Fahrenheit, and, though his hair was

236 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
frosted, he snored away as soundly as if in comfortable quar
ters, i
Almost constant snow-shoeing during the last few days
had so weakened my ankle that I was once more obliged to
take to my deer; but, fortunately, the snow was not very
deep, and it was unnecessary to break a trail.
We had hardly proceeded three versts from camp when we
came upon a meat deposit, or cache, raised upon posts like
the others we had seen, near which were recent tracks; and
a few rods beyond, upon emerging from the woods, we were
saluted by the barking of dogs, and saw a dirty, smoke-black
ened skin-tent standing near a small stream. The tent was
vacant, but we took possession of it, knowing that the occu
pants were near. The barking of the dogs soon brought a
couple of individuals from the woods — one of them a buxom
lass of about seventeen, with large silver ear and finger rings,
and dressed in very filthy skins, but having a very good-look
ing face, and the other her little brother, about ten years old.
The young lady, whom we christened Sappho, told us they
were the children of old Ephraim, and that their father was
then out hunting squirrels and visiting his traps, so we con
cluded to wait for his return.
By smoking and drinking tea, we whiled away the time
until 2 P.M., and then, as Ephraim did not return, concluded
to pitch our tent for the night. Sappho did not appear to be
in the least disconcerted by the presence of strangers, but sat
down deliberately with her little brother to amuse themselves
with a number of toy deer, bear, and mountain sheep cut from
birch-bark with a pair of scissors. I picked up one of the
toys to examine it, and was much astonished at the correct
ness of the figures : they were perfectly proportionate, and
correct even to the minutest details, every prong of the ant
lers, the hoofs, and all being exact. The likenesses were much
better than many I had seen made by those professing to be
artists. We could not imagine who, in this wilderness, had the
ability to make them, and were doubly astonished to learn that
they were her own work. To assure myself, I asked her to
make me two or three as curiosities, when she took a piece
of bark, and, without previously making an outline as I should
have done, began cuttings and in a few moments produced a

SAPPHO.— TUNGUSIAN GUNS. 237
perfectly correct figure. I don't think I have ever before
seen greater native talent for drawing than she manifested.
The Chinese, however, are noted for their imitative powers,
and I presume these people, who are probably descended from
the same original stock, have a little of that faculty in their
composition. Ephraim returned just before dark, bringing three Siberian
squirrels with him as the result of the day's hunt. These
squirrels, the fur of which is known to almost every lady, are
very handsome little animals. They have dark gray backs
and white bellies, black heads, the ears consisting of long
tufts of hair, and fine, large bushy tails, also black. They are
usually shot with a small rifle carrying a ball about the size
of a pea. One of these guns every Tungusian provides him
self with. Upon getting a gun, they invariably chop the
' stock down to one third its original size the first thing, and
then fasten to the stock, by a kind of hinge, two light legs
or supports, upon which to rest the piece in firing, and so ar
ranged that they can be doubled up to the stock and put in
a skin covering with the gun when not required for use, for
convenience in carrying. The old flint-lock is always pre
ferred. Powder and lead are so scarce that hunters have to
employ the greatest economy, and never shoot without rest,
and then they get as near as possible to the game. Where
it is possible, they watch for the bullet to strike, and dig it
out of the snow for farther use.
Seeing a number of pieces of dried bear-meat hanging in
Ephraim's tent, we expressed a desire to try a little of it for
curiosity, and shortly afterward Sappho came to our tent
with a piece weighing at least ten pounds. One taste was
sufficient, as we found it very unpalatable. Had we tasted
it blindfolded, we would, without hesitancy, have pronounced
it to be smoked herring, the fishy flavor was so strong. We
asked Sappho to sit down, at which she seated herself with
the greatest deliberation, and proceeded to fill her pipe for a
social smoke.
We had brought with us a number of bead necklaces and
other trinkets for trading purposes, but had thus far been un
able to make any use of them. - Thinking to please our guest
Mahood fastened a necklace around her fat neck, at which she

238 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
expressed no feeling of gratitude or delight whatever, but, in
a moment, began to make very unbecoming faces for a young
lady, at the same time stretching her neck up and making
vigorous efforts to swallow. Fearing that the necklace would
be broken to pieces or she choked to death, it was speedily
removed and fastened around her wrist, but no acknowledg
ment whatever was made by her.
Gratitude is a feeling of which these people are perfectly
ignorant, except where they have been thrown in contact
with the Russians. They have no word or words in their
language to express thanks, but receive a gift as though it
originally belonged to them, and have no hesitancy in asking
for more. For this reason, the charm of making presents is
wholly destroyed.
Shortly afterward Sappho returned, bringing us a number
of deer-tongues — which, by the way, are the greatest delicacy
ofthe country — also a number of things resembling sausages,
which we afterward found to be bear-grease, a very good sub
stitute for butter or lard in frying meat. For a little liquor,
we purchased of the old man a young deer to kill on the road
for food, and our men succeeded in exchanging some of their
worn-out' animals for fresh ones, so that we lost nothing by
the delay.
The liquor he had received worked like a charm upon old
Ephraim. In the fullness of his heart, or probably, more cor
rectly, stomach, he insisted upon presenting us each before
our departure with a spoon nicely made from the horns of
mountain sheep. They were very acceptable, as the wooden
ones with which we had started from Nikolayefsk had long
since been demolished, and for some time past we had found
it necessary either to drink our beef-soup or eat it with our
sheath-knives. ¦
The next night, just as we were preparing to camp upon
the summit of a hill at the head ofthe Oulinkan River, a small
tributary of the Neamur, Ivan came up to me, and very un
ceremoniously seized me by the nose, at the same time ex
claiming "Hooda ! hooda !" This I thought a rather strange
procedure, and was on the point of retaliating, when he let
go, and pointed to the snow. Mistrusting something, I put
pay hand to my face, and found my nose frozen perfectly hard

A FROZEN NOSE. 239
and insensible, of which I had been wholly unconscious, though
I had noticed that the tingling sensation had ceased during
the last half-hour's travel. Stories I had heard of limbs break
ing off when frozen, and of mortification ensuing, flashed be
fore my mind in an instant, and the prospect of returning
home noseless was rather unpleasant.
But the sooner thawed the better; so, following Ivan's ad
vice, I seized a piece of hard crust and began to rub the
endangered organ lustily, pausing every few moments to
scratch it with my thumb nail to try and detect some symp
toms of returning sensibility. Gradually the organ became
restored sufficiently for me to venture near the fire; but,
upon entering the tent, my companions both started back,
and at the same moment cried,
" Why, what's the matter ? what have you been doing ?"
" Nothing," I replied.
" Why, look at your face."
Not being able to comply very well with this last request,
I felt of it, and found it besmeared with blood, when the truth
flashed before me, the recital of which caused no small amount
of amusement to the party. In my eagerness, while my nose
was frozen and insensible, I had grated off the end of it with
the hard, rough crust, the result of which was an enormous
scab, that I had to carry for the next twenty days. The
next day all the skin that had not been filed off the previous
night came off of its own accord, the effect of the freezing,
and if the statement of my companions can be relied upon, I
was by no means an ornament to the company.
Every few minutes during each day since cold weather
had set in we had taken the precaution of testing the condi
tion of our noses and faces by scratching them with our nails,
but this time I had been taken unawares. When any portion
of the body has once been frozen, it becomes much more sus
ceptible to cold than previously, consequently it was an al
most daily occurrence from this time forward to have my
nose frozen, and one or two days it became so no less than
three times.
The next morning, January 12th, the thermometer indica
ted — 31° Fahrenheit. We found traveling very bad on ac
count of a thin crust through which our deer were constant-

240 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
ly breaking. At noon we struck the head ofthe Mukta River,
a small stream emptying into the Okhotsk. We descended
this stream about ten versts in a southeast direction to the
mouth ofthe Orowa, a tributary flowing from the northeast,
up which we continued until 4 P.M., by which time it was
dark. January 13th.— Still very cold, —31°, but we started on,
after our morning tea and venison soup. We were now look
ing forward anxiously to the completion of our journey. The
country was so monotonous — a repetition of the bald moun
tains and endless larch forest through which we had been
traveling since leaving the Goram; and the incidents of one
day's journey were so much the counterpart of all the others
that we had long since ceased to derive any pleasure from
traveling. Day after day this was the programme.
Fifteen minutes from camp — beard and furs cemented to
gether by a solid mass of ice. About 11 A.M., frozen noses,
and sometimes fingers. At noon, break the ice off beards
enough to allow ourselves to eat a dried fish and smoke, usu
ally accomplished on the backs of our deer. The afternoon
was devoted to scratching our noses and guarding them from
freezing until dark, when camp was prepared, beards thawed,
and tea and venison soup disposed of, after which came our
only enjoyment — pipes, followed by the most disagreeable
task of all — journalizing. This was succeeded by sleep, from
which to awake and repeat the programme. The only vari-,
ety we had was in shifting from the backs of our deer to
snow-shoes, and vice versa / and the only gratification, the
knowledge that at the end of each day's journey we were so
many versts nearer the end of our task.
In the afternoon we came suddenly upon a band of Tun
gusians just preparing to camp. They proved to be the fam
ily of Diana's brother-in-law. But I have neglected to state
that Alexai, our guide, always went by the name of Diana, a
name given him, regardless of sex, on account- of the stately
and majestic manner in which he glided off on snow-shoes,
followed by his nymphs — two forlorn lean deer. Just as we
came up the Tungusians were unloading from one of their
deer two little boys, who had been lashed together, and
thrown over the pack-saddle while traveling, the one bal-

DOWN THE NA UGTARA RIVER.. 241
ancing the other, like two packages ; and upon another deer
the weight of a baby was counterbalanced by a large kettle.
They were each sewed up in a single garment, jacket, pants,
boots, mittens, and cap all in one piece, made of heavy rein
deer fur, and nothing was visible but their small, shining
black eyes and little red noses peering from the mass of fur.
The youngsters did not seem to regard the temperature in
the least, and appeared perfectly contented when stuck down
in the deep snow to await the completion of the camp. Here
we crossed a range of Wooded hills to- the head of the Naug-
tara River, which stream we descended in a northeast direc
tion for about ten versts before camping.
The next morning we were awakened by loud flapping
sounds, and hardly had time to spring from our beds to hold
up our tent to prevent it from being blown over by severe
gusts of wind. The squalls came every few moments, blow
ing a perfect gale for a short time, and then completely dying
out. During these intervals of quiet we made spasmodic ef
forts to finish dressing, not finding it very agreeable standing
in a half-nude state exposed to a strong wind at a tempera
ture of — 13°. While we were eating breakfast the tent came
down, but we were then prepared for the road, so experienced
no inconvenience.
Swartz and I started ahead on snow-shoes, leaving the oth
ers to follow with the deer, and did not see them again until
night. All day long the gusts continued, blowing across the
valley of the Naugtara, which is about three miles wide at
this point, and at times almost lifted us from our feet. The
snow drifted in clouds, but fortunately across our path.- We
would have been unable to make any headway against it had
it blown in our faces.
The morning of January 15th was by far the warmest we
had experienced since leaving Oudskoi, —4°. During the day
we continued down the Naugtara valley, which increased to
a width of ten versts, interspersed occasionally with stretch
es of"" tundra," or barren land, and at night camped at the
mouth of a tributary flowing from the north, called the Mai-
mai. January 16th. — We left the Naugtara River, taking a
northeast course across a wide extent of nearly level coun-
Q

242 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
try, crossing the Maimai and Tiemai Rivers, both tributaries
of the Naugtara, but did not camp until two hours after dark,
as the snow was very deep, and we were unable to find deer-
food. These last hours were exceedingly disagreeable, the
thermometer at —25°, ourselves and deer perfectly exhaust
ed, and the night so dark that we had to let our animals take
their own course. Even when we did* camp our deer could
not dig down to the ground on account of deep snow, so had
to go supperless.
January 11th. — Thermometer —35° Fahrenheit. Left camp
at 8 o'clock A.M., intending to cross Ouey Khrebet and reach
a station on the post-road near to Ajan by night, at all ex
pense of comfort. Our deer were hungry, and could obtain
no food until we should 'reach that point. We sent Diana
with his nymphs ahead to break a trail, but soon overtook
him, as one of his deer had broken loose and ran off, leaving
its load behind in the woods. Having dispatched Telefont
after the escaped animal, we continued our journey. Our
route lay up the Tiemai River.
Ouey Khrebet, a high, bold spur of the Juggur range, over
which our course lay, loomed up grandly before us all day,
but at 11.30 A.M. we had the finest view of it from a small
tundra or barren. From this point I attempted to make a
sketch of it, but froze my fingers before the outline was
completed, and had to discontinue. The ascent was so grad
ual that by 2 P.M. we found ourselves on the summit with
very little exertion. The day was exceedingly cold, but
beautiful. Not a particle of wind was blowing, for which
we felt truly grateful. We had learned to dread winter
winds in exposed localities since our experience in crossing
Kela Ridge.
The descent into the narrow gulch in which the Ouey River
has its rise was accomplished upon snow-shoes in a very brief
space of time. Down this stream, in a northerly direction,
we continued our way without cessation, in the hope of reach
ing the post-road before night ; but darkness settled upon us
while yet many versts intervened between us and our desti
nation. About this tinie Telefont came up, having caught
the runaway deei-, and, there being no deer-food in the vicin
ity, we continued our course.

A MIXED-UP MESS. 243
Some time after dark one of our deer gave out, and had
to be abandoned to the wolves. After four long, cold, dark
hours more of travel, guided by the starlight, floundering
through deep, soft snow, and slipping upon the smooth ice
of the river, a shout from our guide announced the post-
road ; but our delight was immediately succeeded by disap
pointment. The snow lying within the scope of the long,
narrow furrow cut through the larch forest was as soft and
undisturbed as elsewhere. No sleds or any kind of travel
had passed over it at least since the first fall of snow, which
led us to infer that the town of Ajan, which was built by
the Russian -American Fur Company, had been abandoned,
and, in consequence, also the post-road, which led from that
place to Yakoutsk, in the interior. The probability of such
a state of affairs was far from cheering. Our supplies were
exhausted, our guides would go no farther with their deer,
and, the route being abandoned, we would have no means
of communicating with Yakoutski or of procuring other an
imals. Diana informed us that there had formerly been a station
somewhere in the vicinity, for which we all started in search.
In an- hour's time we came upon the yourt, nearly buried in
snow. The barking of a dog proclaimed the presence of hu
man beings', at any rate. This barking also aroused the in
mates, who came rushing out, thinking, as they said, that we
were the postilions from Ajan with the mail, which they
were expecting that night. Now the well-beaten road came
in view. We had happened to strike the old road near a
point where the postilions leave it and make a detour to
pass this station.
Men, women, and children in a state of semi-nudeness es
corted us into the hut, where a large bright blaze had just
been started in,the chual. Of this Ivan immediately availed
himself to make tea, to drive the chill and weariness from
our bodies. Upon the wooden shelves or bunks built on
three sides of the room lay, strewn and piled into every con
ceivable shape, a conglomerate mass of human flesh and
bones. Like two dog-teams after a fight, it was difficult to
tell "whose foot belonged to who," or who might be the
rightful owner of this arm or leg.

244 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
Our speculations as to the abandonment pf Ajan, after
questioning the station-keeper, proved nearer true than we
would have wished — it was abandoned ; but we were too
much exhausted to ponder long over the unwelcome intelli
gence, and, after drinking tea, retired to our allotted bunks.

PRANKS OF EXPLORERS. 245

CHAPTER XVH.
Our good Fortune. — Privilege of an Explorer. — Undignified Pranks.— Ex
hausted Deer. — The Post-road. — Mail. — Reindeer and Sleds. — Summer
Journeying. — The Sea. — Ajan Bay.— First View of Ajan. — The Town. —
Beautiful Locality. — Vandalism. — Mr. Popoff, Police - master. — Siberian
Nectar. — Native Reports verified. — Hospitality. — Promptness and Gener
osity. — More Discouragements. — Ajan of the Past.— Palmy Days of the
Okhotsk. — Scarcity of Provisions. — Medicinal Wants. — Settling with
Guides. — Seeking Quarters. — Faded Grandeur. — Ajan Amusements. —
Nikolaiovna, the Cossack Widow. — An ungallant Plot.- — The Vechourka.
— Music. — Personal Experience. — Astounding Endurance. — Badly Worst
ed. — My insatiable Partner. — Fine Prospects. — The Peninsula. — Mount
Miak. — A difficult and dangerous Climb. — My Imprudence. — A glorious
View. — Disagreeable Altitude. — Frozen Hands.— The Descent.
Long, cold, and monotonous as our journey had been, we
yet had great reason to be thankful for the clear weather
with which we had been favored during the greater part of
the way. Since leaving Oudskoi we had experienced some
quite cold weather, but this we found not to be so great an
obstacle as we had anticipated ; for, clad as we were in an
abundance of furs, we could at almost any time get into a
perspiration by wading through the deep snow for a short
distance, or by strapping on our snow-shoes and assisting in
breaking a road for the deer. But we carefully avoided ex
ercising to such a degree as to induce perspiration, except
when it was absolutely necessary, for invariably, toward
night, the moisture in our clothing would freeze, causing no
small amount of suffering, if not freezing our feet or hands.
There is one advantage which the traveler in isolated and
solitary regions enjoys which is denied the greater part of
mankind — the feeling of perfect freedom and the total ab
sence of all restraint. Cold formalities are abandoned at the
very outset, and a person displays the generous, free impulses
of his nature, unfettered by the cords of custom and etiquette.
This privilege We all fully appreciated, and many times a party
of bearded men might have been seen tumbling about in the
deep snow, or making the woods ring with hideous howls and

246 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
noises without fear of odious comparisons, or of their undig
nified demeanor being commented upon. Often at night, at
the conclusion of a long day's journey, our solitary little tent
pitched far down in the bottom of some canon among the
larch-trees, and icy mountain -spires looming for thousands
of feet above our heads, have we stepped out into the clear,
still atmosphere, and, from overflowing feelings of unre
straint, whooped and shouted, pausing after each to listen to
the echo as it bounded from mountain to mountain, and final
ly lost itself among the loftiest peaks.
The postilions did not arrive during the night with the ex
pected mail from Ajan, and as we still had hopes of reaching
that place before its departure, after a hasty breakfast Ma
hood, Swartz, and myself saddled our deer and pushed on,
following the well-beaten post-road down the north bank of
the Ouey River. Our deer had not yet recovered from their
long journey ; and the night before, upon reaching the yourt,
Diana was so completely exhausted that he neglected carry
ing them to good feeding-grounds, consequently when we at
tempted to mount we found the poor creatures hardly able
to sustain our weights. But the morning was cold and fresh,
and the snow so hard and tempting that none of us regretted
this on our own accounts, and were only glad of an opportu
nity of stretching our limbs.
This road, which, as I have already said, is simply a narrow
lane cut through the forest, extends from Ajan acioss the
Juggur Mountains to Yakoutsk, distant thirteen hundred
versts inland. It was constructed by the Russian-American
Company about the time Ajan was founded, in 1848, and was
used by the government in transporting arms and munitions
of war to the sea-coast during the Crimean War. At inter
vals of thirty or forty versts along the route are post-stations,
where relays of deer are kept in readiness for forwarding the
mail, or for the convenience of travelers, though it is a thing
almost unknown for any of the latter, except employes of the
Russian- American Company, to pass this way. A mail is sent
monthly from Ajan, consisting usually of eight or ten letters,
intrusted to the care of a postilion, and generally occupies
ten days in reaching Yakoutsk, traveling day and night.
Reindeer are used altogether on the route in winter, and

REINDEER SLEDDING.

m

KEIMDEEE-SLED.

are harnessed in pairs to a sled similar to the ordinary dog-
sled, such as we had used in our journey from Algasee to
Oudskoi. The harness consists of a simple strap or belt
around the neck of each animal, to which is attached a single
thong of hide, which passes between their legs and around a
bow in front of the sled, but is not made fast to it, so that,
unless the animals travel equally fast, one draws the sled upon
the heels ofthe other. Tn summer, horses are used altogether
for land transportation, though by taking a longer and circu-
itqus route the traveler can accomplish a large portion of the
distance by water transportation on the tributaries of the
Lena. In spite of the anxiety we all felt at reports we had heard
at the post-station concerning the abandonment of Ajan, and
scarcity of provisions in town, our morning's journey was a
most pleasant one. The gratification at having accomplished
so much of our arduous undertaking, and anticipations of
again meeting civilization, had a tendency to counteract the
discouraging effects of these reports.
At 11 A.M. we reached the mouth ofthe Ouey, seven versts
below Ajan, from which place the road takes a northeast
course over two low mountain ridges before reaching the
coast. As we approached the town, our eyes were once more
greeted with a view ofthe sea for the first time since Christ
mas Eve, and ere long we found ourselves skirting Ajan Bay,

248 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
a small indenture in the coast, sheltered from all but south
erly and southeasterly winds. Though by no means a per
fectly secure harbor for shipping, yet it equals, if not excels
any other on this side of the Okhotsk Sea, for which reason
this place was selected by the Russian-American Company
as a whaling dep6t.
Not expecting to see any thing more than a rude collec
tion of log cabins, we were agreeably surprised, upon turning
a rocky promontory, to find ourselves confronted by a very
large log magazine or store-house, faced with a long gallery
and row of heavy wooden columns. About the building were
lying anchors, chains, ships' tackle, and, in fact, almost every
thing requisite for a naval depot. Near by, in a rude little
earth- work commanding the bay, were mounted about a dozen
small iron guns, stuffed to the muzzle with dirt and gravel;
and drawn up on the beaGh were half a dozen good whale-
boats. Beyond these lay a small schooner, high and dry on
the beach, to escape the huge masses of drift-ice that sweep
along the coast with the tides later in the season. The town
itself lay sheltered in a beautiful grove of trees, in a valley
extending across the neck of a small but mountainous penin
sula, and was not visible from the bay. Leaving the water,
we followed the road through the grove of trees for about a
quarter of a mile, when Ajan disclosed itself. The town con
tained only about a dozen houses constructed of logs, but
they were by far the most superior buildings of the kind we
had yet seen, even excelling those in Nikolayefsk. In addi
tion to the commodious, comfortable quarters for the Com
pany's officers were quarters and mess-rooms for the other
employes, besides a small chapel, bath-houses, and every thing
essential to the comfort of those residing here.
At the time of our visit the town and location were still
very beautiful, but before the abandonment of the place by
the Russian-American Company it must have been a charm
ing spot Now every thing was stamped with neglect, and
the lazy natives formerly employed by the Company, instead
of hauling their wood for fuel from a short distance as they
were once required to do, had made sad havoc among the
groves ; and where Swartz told me they used to have pic
nics and tea-parties under the trees, now nothing was to be

ARRIVAL AT AJAN. 249
seen but ugly stumps jutting from the snow. On all sides
were quite high mountain peaks and ridges, affording mag
nificent prospects of the sea and coast for miles^ above and
below, and sheltering the little valley almost completely from
the winds and storms that rage without.
All the inhabitants assembled to see us when we rode into
town, among whom Swartz recognized two or three old ac
quaintances, one of them Mr. Popoff, the police-master and
commandant of the post, and another — Mr. Sleigerstroff, the
only representative of the Company now left in town, to
whose care was intrusted all their property until some dis
position could be made of it. The latter gentleman kindly
placed at our disposal his house and board, and in a few mo
ments we found ourselves once more attired in human cos
tume, seated in a fine, large, well-carpeted, papered, and fur
nished room, about which were suspended numbers of pic
tures and large mirrors, and enjoying the genial hospitality
of our host. The tea — that " nectar" ofthe Siberian traveler
— was unsurpassable, but words fail me when I attempt to
describe the pleasure we derived from some genuine Havanas
that succeeded lunch.
We learned, much to Our regret, that the accounts we had
received from the natives at the post-station concerning the
scarcity of provisions in Ajan had not been exaggerated; but
Mr. Popoff, who took the greatest interest in our undertaking,
very kindly assured us that we should have a fresh outfit,
even if he had to supply us from his own limited stock of
provisions, and then replace it from Yakoutsk.
I can not say too much in praise of the genuine hospitality
and hearty co-operation we received at the hands of all those
with whom we were thrown in contact during our journey-
ings among the Russians. Russian hospitality is already
proverbial, and, after our experiences among them, I fully
concur in all the previous statements of travelers.
Our arrival was very opportune, as we found the postmas
ter just preparing to start off the postilion with the mail ; but,
upon learning that we were desirous of sending letters by it,
he kindly delayed it until the following morning, to give us
an opportunity of writing. Upon applying to Mr. Popoff, we
learned at the outset that there were no deer to be obtained

250 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
near Ajan for our journey to Okhotsk, and, to cause us as lit
tle delay as possible, he also availed himself of the mail to
send instructions to the Tungusian starasta, or head man,
who resided near Nelkan, two hundred versts inland, direct
ing him to procure the requisite number — about fifteen ani
mals — and send them down as soon as possible.
From Ajan we could easily have taken post-deer and have
gone to Yakoutsk, and from that place by the post -route
again to Okhotsk, making two sides of the triangle — twenty-
seven hundred versts ; but, as our aim was, if possible, to dis
cover a more direct route through the wilderness lying be
tween Yakoutsk and the sea, we did not think for a moment
of availing ourselves of this route.
Even Mr. Popoff tried to discourage us from attempting to
find a way through this wilderness, which, he said, was only
partially known to the hardiest and most daring Tungusian
hunters, and told us that on one occasion he himself had at
tempted to penetrate it, but on the second day had been
forced to turn back on account of storms and high, impassa
ble mountains. While at Nikolayefsk, on the Amoor, we met
a Russian gentleman, Dr. Siskavitch, who told us that he also
had attempted this same route some years ago, and that, after
proceeding one hundred and fifty versts, he had been com
pelled to retrace his steps.
These statements would have dampened our ardor very
much had not our recent successful journey aroused our con
ceit, and we had reason to suppose that it could be no worse
than what we had already undergone. Our only anxiety
now was to procure deer and complete the task as soon as
possible. Ajan is now only the shadow of its former greatness. For
merly one of the governors of the Russian-American Compa
ny had his residence here, surrounded with his suite of gayly-
uniformed officers, with their wives and families, and the town
was full of busy, industrious men. But this was while the
Russian- American Company was at the height of its prosper
ity. Yearly ships arrived from Sitka and other fur-trading
posts in the Russo- American Possessions, laden with valuable
furs, and several hundreds of thousands of roubles were ex
pended in trying to establish a whaling dep6t. Ships and

A PLAYED-OUT PLACE. 251
every thing requisite for the business were purchased, and
natives and horses were brought from the interior, but the
experiment was undertaken too late. The hundreds of Amer
ican whalers that had annually swarmed the Okhotsk Sea for
years previously had driven the finny monsters almost entire
ly from these waters, and the experiment resulted in total
failure. I was told by a whaling captain that he had count
ed seventy-two vessels from the deck of his ship, all in sight
at one time, more than half of which were " trying out" oil.
This will give some idea of the vast number of these animals
that were slaughtered, and the rich harvests that were reaped
in the palmy days of the Okhotsk. In those days crowds of
American seamen visited Ajan. But as a calm succeeds the
storm, so also this busy little place has settled back into a
collection of deserted habitations.
Much to our astonishment as well as amusement, our host
informed us in very good English that "Ajan was 'played
out,' " which not very elegantly, but correctly portrays the
present condition of the place. When the town was first
abandoned, nearly all the provisions were carried away too,
leaving an insufficient supply for those left behind, and at
this early date, January 18th, we found many of the poorer
people almost destitute.
Great fears were expressed lest the scurvy should make
its appearance, since it would undoubtedly prove very disas
trous, as the place was utterly without a physician, and no
medical attendance could be procured this side of Yakoutsk,
thirteen hundred versts distant. Already there were two
very bad cases of sickness among the people, and the day be
fore our arrival a sick woman had been put on an open sled,
to be carried through to the above place to receive medical
aid. Toward night, Ivan, our Cossack, arrived with the deer and
baggage, when we paid off and discharged our guides. It re
quired a good deal of persuasion to induce Ivan to remain
and accompany us to Okhotsk, since he had left a young wife
behind him at Oudskoi, and was desirous of returning home.
We had found him to be such a valuable man to us, as inter
preter and otherwise, that we could not well afford to part
with him.

252 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
The following day, not wishing to impose upon the hospi
tality of our host, we sought quarters elsewhere, and at first
pitched upon the former residence of the governor, a large,
well-built log house, containing about ten rooms, all well car
peted, papered, and furnished, besides containing a piano and
billiard-table. These latter were, however, somewhat dilapi
dated. Our Siberian experiences had so simplified our wants
and whittled down our necessities that we absolutely felt ill
at ease with so much room and such a display of faded grand
eur strewn around, consequently we were not contented until
we found ourselves established on the second floor of an un
occupied house, with barely room enough for our beds, a few
chairs, and a couple of small tables. Our friend still insisted
on our using his board, but this we could not consent to do
without compensating him, on account of the dearness and
scarcity of provisions.
During our sojourn in Ajan, no pains were spared by our
new friends to make it pleasant for us. Evenings were de
voted to card-parties and dances, afternoons to dinners, and
the day was filled up with excursions and promenades to dif
ferent parts ofthe peninsula and neighboring country.
Our dances would hardly have been termed such in Amer
ica, though they afforded us not only considerable amuse
ment, but exercise. On these occasions the fair sex was rep
resented by only two ladies — our fair hostess and a robust Cos
sack widow, who insisted upon our calling her Nikolaiovna, as
it would have been equivalent to quite a speech each time her
name was called had we been compelled to prefix Madam, or
the Russian synonyme. She assured us that she was forty-six
years old, and weighed one hundred and eighty pounds, both
of which facts, contrary to feminine natures generally, she
took pleasure and pride in announcing. But neither of these
conditions seemed to cause her any inconvenience, for she had
the most remarkable endurance of any creature, male or fe
male, that I ever knew. Dancing was her chief delight, and
no amount of it appeared to satisfy her. She entered into it
soul and body, and displayed such youthful vigor and agility
that our curiosity was completely aroused, and we resolved,
however ungallant it may have been, to test her endurance.
This we could easily arrange, as there were four gentlemen

THE FAT BELLE OF AJAN. 253
and only the two ladies ; and, while the latter were compelled
to dance steadily, the former could relieve each other. The
music was not of the best, but varied between a violin (upon
which Ivan, our Cossack, was something of an Expert) and
an old hand-organ. The latter was so out of repair, and had
seen such rough usage, that frequently, for several seconds at
a time, it refused to give forth any sounds whatever except
the creaking of the crank, with which we found it quite diffi
cult to keep step.
Early in the evening the dance commenced, our host and
Mahood leading off with a quadrille, while two Cossacks took
turns at the crank. This was succeeded by another, to give
Swartz and myself an opportunity,- and so on vice versa, until
four quadrilles and two polkas had been gone through. At
this juncture Ivan came to the rescue of the other Cossacks
with his violin, and started a monotonous Cossack quickstep.
This appeared to be Nlkolaiovna's favorite, for with one
bound she sprang to the floor and threw her handkerchief
upon Mr. Sleigerstroff as a challenge to dance. It is consid
ered a mark of impoliteness to refuse, so Mr. Sleigerstroff
arose, and for five minutes we enjoyed a fine display of grace
and agility. Both parties danced well in spite ofthe size of
the madam, and the music was of a wild, stirring kind, that
nothing but a gouty foot could resist. The handkerchief was
freely used throughout the dance, not only in posturing, but
in wiping away perspiration. No sooner had our host ex
cused himself than the madam challenged Swartz, who was
in his turn obliged to dance, and afterward Mahood : they
together engaged her for five or six minutes. My turn was
inevitable, and, though I had not the slightest knowledge of
the dance, I was obliged to comply. For some time — I don't
know how long — I made desperate efforts to catch a step,
but, failing in this, my only resource was in hopping on one
foot. At this the madam protested, and declared that she
would call on me again. We had no sooner stopped than a
quadrille was suggested, which was followed by another, and
a polka. After this I was called upon to renew the dance,
and, to avoid a third challenge, I conscientiously did my best
but my awkwardness proved my enemy, and, after full ten
minutes of violent effort:, I excused myself without havino-

254 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
accomplished my purpose. The incorrigible Nikolaiovna was
still dissatisfied. The other gentlemen fully appreciated my
condition, and, in order to exhaust her before she could again
challenge hie, she was kept in a constant whirl of polkas and
other dances for fully fifteen minutes, after which she seated
herself, flushed, perspiring, and evidently exhausted. I had
long since repented our rash experiment to test her endur
ance, and hailed these signs with joy. Knowing that she
would soon recover, my only safety was in offering to finish
the dance while she was in too exhausted a condition to ac
cept. I seized upon the opportunity, and offered to dance,
when, much to my surprise, she accepted, and sprang to the
floor. It was now 8 o'clock, and Ivan showed signs of weariness,
but we all felt confident that she would soon express herself
satisfied. By this time the doors and windows of the room
were filled with the heads of Cossacks, Yakouts, and Tungu
sians, anxiously watching the proceedings. I felt that my
own, and the reputation of America, whom I represented, was
at stake in the contest, and resolved to dance as long as my
partner would, though I felt confident of easy victory. A very
long ten minutes passed, during which I kept my eye on the
face ofthe madam, to catch the first flush of exhaustion. Her
endurance was astounding, and her steps higher and quicker
than ever. At the end of twenty minutes the heat was al
most unendurable, and my clothing was saturated with per
spiration. My partner, though apparently as warm as my
self, still showed no signs of yielding. At the end of thirty
minutes the contest began to get interesting to the audience
at the doors and windows, as they began to join in with a
song to assist the musician, at the same time patting their
feet or clapping their hands. These sounds' seemed to inspire
Nikolaiovna ; she sprang higher than ever, and I am sure I
should have yielded had I not been encouraged from time to
time by my companions. The idea of having to succumb to
a widow lady of forty-six, weighing one hundred and eighty
pounds, I did not relish. I thought I detected a sign of fail
ing in her face, and danced with renewed hope. Forty min
utes rolled around, at which time I was unconscious of every
thing except a bouncing motion, and my eyes blinded with

VIEWS FROM AJAN. 255
perspiration. After some time — I don't know how long — I
recovered my senses, and found my feet and legs jumping
about to the time ofthe music, wholly independently of the
rest of the body, and Nikolaiovna apparently fresher than at
the commencement. This discouraged me. Suddenly it oc
curred to me that I had pursued a very ungallant course to
ward this lady, and she so many years my senior too. Even
though I knew myself to possess much greater endurance,
politeness would demand that I should concede it to her, and
at once declare myself beaten, in order to relieve her of any
farther exertions. I almost yielded, but cast one more glance
at her countenance before fully deciding. I actually believe
that she was as fresh as at the commencement. But the
glimpse I had of her venerable countenance caused me to ex
perience a pang of conscious remorse, and gallantry was the
victor. We had barely stopped when she challenged Mahood to
continue the dance, but he very wisely declined. This epi
sode gave me the most implicit confidence in all the doctrines
of the elder Weller, and I fully resolved never again to try
and outdance a Cossack widow, though she should be as old
as Methuselah, and weigh ten tons. It was five minutes of
10 o'clock when we stopped. Poor Ivan was nearly exhaust
ed, and could no longer furnish any music ; but the madam
danced two quadrilles and a polka afterward by the music
ofthe organ..
The views to be obtained from many points near the town
were many of them perfectly charming, and one spot in par
ticular we visited almost daily on account of the fine pros
pect. It was at the upper end of Ajan valley, where it ter
minated, on the northern side of the peninsula, in an abrupt
precipice about four hundred feet in height. The view was
decidedly wintry, lacking the warm, delicate tints of a sum
mer landscape, but the wide stretch of sea, piled up with
jagged masses of broken ice grinding and crashing together,
and the long extent of abrupt coast terminating in high
rocky cliffs, backed by the lofty, snow-clad Juggur Moun
tains, presented a view that made up in grandeur for the
more quiet beauty of a summer landscape.
The peninsula is only about a mile in width and three miles

256 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
in length, but is so rugged and mountainous that it was diffi
cult to find level space enough upon which to build the town.
Some of these peaks are quite lofty, and one in particular —
Mount Miak, or " Beacon Mountain," at the extreme point of
the peninsula, attains an elevation of about three thousand
feet, and serves as a prominent landmark to vessels cruising
about the sea. On account of this it received its name — Bea
con Mountain. This peak had never been ascended in the
winter, but the grand prospect which I knew it must afford
inspired me with a longing to reach its summit, and I could
not feel contented until I had made the attempt. At length
a day arrived suitable for the excursion, so warm and pleas
ant in the valley that neither mittens nor overcoats were re
quired. Attired in my usual dress, with fur boots and cap, I
strapped on my snow-shoes, and, taking my staff, started out.
The exercise made me so warm that I did not regret having
left my mittens behind. Half an hour's walk brought me to
the foot of the peak, up which I attempted to climb with my
snow-shoes, but the ascent was so steep, and the snow packed
so hard by the winds, that I found them to be of but little
use, and was obliged to abandon them after proceeding a few
hundred feet. From this point the labor commenced. My
smooth-bottomed torbassa refused to take hold of the hard-
crusted snow, and it was only by digging notches with the
staff that I made any progress at all. Occasionally large
fragments of rock jutted from the snow, and, by working my
way slowly from one to another, after an hour's climb I found
myself well up the mountain side. Here I was confronted by
an almost perpendicular wall, upon which I could make no
impression with my staff, and was obliged to work my way
around the mountain side on all fours, clinging to jutting
rocks and inequalities in the snow with my bare hands, which
now began to ache with cold. I would have turned back at
this point, but a short distance above were large masses of
rock over which I expected the climbing would be better,
so continued my course. There was a strongly perceptible
change in the temperature at this elevation, and my fingers
began to whiten and get numb. I now repented the folly of
having started without mittens. The mountain side here be
came very steep and glassy, and it required all my efforts to

ASCENT OF BEA CON MO UNTAIN. 257
avoid losing my hold. If once started, there was nothing
below to check my speed for four hundred feet, and then I
would inevitably have gone over a precipice the height of
which I could not tell, but just below it black, ugly masses
of rock reared their heads. Here it was equally as danger
ous to turn back as to go ahead. By using my pocket-knife
to cut notches in smooth places, and pausing every few mo
ments to warm my fingers with my breath, I at length at
tained the rocks above, which proved to be the ridge of a
long spur extending from the peak. But my hands were
both badly frozen, and a keen, cold wind penetrated my cloth
ing, which had been moistened with perspiration at the com
mencement of the climb.
The ascent was no longer dangerous, though in many places
difficult, and in a few minutes' time I found myself on the
highest pinnacle of rocks. The wind was so strong and cut
ting that I was compelled to take shelter behind the rocks,
and, in spite of the torments I experienced from my hands,
which were beginning to thaw, I felt fully repaid by the
prospect. The Okhotsk Sea lay spread out below and on three sides .
like an immense chart, bounded on one side by the water ho
rizon, and on the other by the bold, rugged coast, every in
dentation of which was distinctly visible for fifty miles above
and below. A broad belt of fast ice clung to the rocks, ex
tending in places five and six miles out into the sea, outside
of which the water was strewn with immense fields of it,
sweeping back and forth with the tides and currents, and oc
casionally breaking, with a distant rumbling sound, and sep
arating into fragments. Between these long black veins of
open water disclosed themselves. Eighty miles to the south
Great Shantarr and Feklistoff islands were plainly visible,
and on the west the high, pointed range of the Juggur Moun
tains, clearly cut against the dark sky, were in themselves a
sight well worth the climb.
I remained on the summit but a few minutes on account
of the cold. In descending I selected a different and less
dangerous route, though I had to use my hands almost con
stantly to prevent myself from slipping, and they were again
badly frozen by the time I reached the place where I had
R

258 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
left my snow-shoes. The application of snow, together with
the milder temperature in the valley, soon restored them, but
the next day they were badly blistered where they had come
in contact with the cold stones, and for several days they af
forded me much inconvenience.

ANXIETY AT AJAN. 259

CHAPTER XVm.
Anxiety to start. — Abandoned Project. — Arrival of Tungusians. — Procure
Deer. — Excursion with Reindeer and Sleds. — The Cavern. — Our Indebt
edness to the Residents. — Departure. — Night Journey. — The Slides. —
Sharpsightedness. — Capsize. — My flying Driver. — A glorious Ride. —
Reindeer Speed. — Reach the Station. — Romann Caramsin. — Settled Tun
gusians. — Character, Religion, etc. — Government. — Aristocracy. — Careful
Reception. — Bottomless Stomachs. — New Guides. — Medusa. — Change
Route. — Aldemir River. — Tungusian Piety. — Road-breaking Deer. — Dog
Trail. — Micache. — Bpangee." — Light Snow. — The Toucha. — Oulinkan.- —
Conflagrations. — The Cachee River. — Tungusian Offerings. — Mahood's
Contribution.— Sunday. — Hard Traveling. — Ascent of the Juggur. — The
Divide.— Dissimilarity in Country. — Multan. — Level Country. — Mount
Bulkley. — Ulkan. — On the Trot. — Improvement in Deer. — Viciousness. —
Medusa's Discomfiture.
Moee than a week had elapsed since our arrival at Ajan,
and still no news from Nelkan or the Tungusians. We felt
satisfied that Major Abasa and party, who were to meet us
at Okhotsk, must have long since arrived at that place, and,
not finding us there, they were undoubtedly uneasy about
us, consequently each day's delay increased our anxiety to
start. After a few more days, hearing nothing from the deer, I
was desirous of procuring dogs, and attempting to reach
Okhotsk by traveling along the ice-belt I had seen from
Miak Mountain. This journey would probably not take
more than seven or eight days, but neither dogs nor dog-
food could be procured, and I was obliged to abandon the
project. It was probably just as well, as the salt ice along
these shores is very treacherous and rotten, and, in nine cases
out of ten, before reaching my destination I would have drift
ed out to sea on some detached field of ice, and have under
gone similar, if not worse experiences than Swartz and his
native companions underwent near the mouth of the Uda
River, as related on pages 181-183.
At length, on the 28th of January, a party of Tungusians
arrived, with whom we made arrangements, after a good

260 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
deal of parleying, for them to carry us half way to Okhotsk,
at which point they assured us we would find a rich old Tun
gusian who had an abundance of deer, and would carry us the
remainder ofthe distance. But their deer were far inland, and
we had to reconcile ourselves to many days' longer delay.
In the mean while we availed ourselves of all the kinds of
amusement the town and country afforded. While here we
experienced our first ride on a sled drawn by reindeer across
Ajan Bay to a point of rocks, beneath which is a cavern about
two hundred feet in depth. But our long and intimate ac
quaintance with these animals destroyed the charm and nov
elty of the ride. The cavern appeared to be a large fissure
in the rocks, occasioned by volcainc action, and had since
been subjected to the action of the waves, which had in
places worn quite deep chambers, but it possessed neither
beauty nor grandeur.
Finally, after a delay of nineteen days, on the 5th of Feb
ruary, Romann Caramsin, the Tungusian starasta, arrived
with the welcome announcement that our deer would be at
the post-station, twenty-five versts distant, the next day, to
which point he kindly volunteered to carry us on his own
sleds. All our preparations for the journey had long since been
completed. Sukarie, or dried bread, for road use, had been
prepared for us by our generous friend, Mr. Popoff. This,
with tea, sugar, and ten days' rations of deer-meat, supplied
our wants, as we expected to be able to renew our supply of
meat on the road. Fresh, new furs supplanted our old ones,
and, having procured a couple of pairs of new snow-shoes, we
felt ourselves fully equipped.
Our stay in Ajan had been made very agreeable by Messrs.
Popoff, Sleigerstroff, and our other new acquaintances, and,
had it not been for the valuable assistance we received from
the former gentleman, I fear we would have been unable to
prosecute our farther explorations. As for our pretty host
ess and Nikolaiovna, I will never forget either of them ; the
former on account of the many kind and delicate attentions
we received at her hand, and the latter on account of one of
the most complete and thorough defeats one mortal ever re
ceived at the hands of another.

NIGHT JOURNEY.— A CAPSIZE. 261
We had to dine with each of our friends the following day
— no trivial thing, as three dinners had to be disposed of in
the short space of three hours — and the ceremony of leave-
taking was so long that the sun was below the horizon before
we bade our last adieu, and dashed out of reach of the sound
of the parting cheers.
The gorgeous hues of the setting sun rapidly faded from
the western heavens, the last faint gleam of which, reflected
from the icy forehead of Mount Miak, shone in brilliant con
trast against the sombre shades of advancing night. One
by one the stars peeped forth, shyly concealing their bril
liancy at first, as if uncertain of their powers ; but, imbibing
fresh courage from their rapidly increasing numbers, ere long
the whole heavens fairly glistened with myriads of sparkling
lights. It was one of those clear, cold nights, and so still that all
nature appeared spell-bound. No sound but the hoofs of our
deer on the hard, crisp snow broke the silence for more than
a half hour after we started. The light of the stars reflected
from the snow was sufficient to enable us to see distinctly our
way along the post -route, except in places where the thick
branches of overhanging larch-trees completely shut out the
heavens, and then it required all the skill and sharpsighted-
ness of our drivers to prevent collisions with neighboring
tree-trunks. In places the road led around the sloping sides
of small elevations, and was so smooth and slippery that only
by the greatest exertions of our drivers could they prevent
the sleds from swaying around and capsizing.
Having passed several of these places successfully, I began
to repose the greatest confidence in the skill of my driver,
and settled myself back on my narta for a quiet enjoyment
of the ride. Our deer were in good condition, and, being in
vigorated by the cold air, could hardly be restrained from
starting off on a full bound. While lying back at my ease,
I suddenly perceived, by the swaying of the sled, that we
were passing another of the slides, and had barely time to
grasp the sides of my narta, when I experienced a suffocating
sensation in my chest, and for an instant the stars were hid
den from view by the passage of some dark object through
the air like an extinct meteor. I was not long in discover-

262 . REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
ing that the sled had capsized, and that the whole weight of
it was resting on my chest ; but I could not account for the
dark object until I saw my Tungusian driver trying to extri
cate himself from a large snow-drift about fifteen feet below
the road, into which he had landed head first.
The deer had been traveling at a very rapid pace, and, com
ing to this place, the driver jumped from the sled, and, seizing
the bow in front, leaned his whole weight up the incline to
check the swaying. But it had gained too much force, and,
the lower runner striking some impediment, the whole estab
lishment suddenly whipped over, carrying the Tungusian with
it before he could extricate himself. Our deer fortunately
stopped immediately.
As soon as we found no injury had been sustained, my
driver and I enjoyed a hearty laugh over the affair, and as
this was the only means of communicating with each other,
we continued it all the rest of the way.
Up to this time, on account of the unevenness and winding
course of the post-road, we had been unable to test the speed
and full enjoyment of a ride behind reindeer; but, after once
more reaching the mouth of the Ouey River, before us for
several miles was a long, straight, and perfectly even stretch.
Here, as if to compensate me for the capsize he had given me,
my driver uttered a shout, and, thrusting the deer in the
haunches, off they started on the full bound, the light sled
seeming to be no impediment to them whatever.
It was the most enjoyable ride I had ever experienced, even
excelling that on the smooth ice of the Uda River with dogs
when in full pursuit ofthe fox. Imagine yourself buried in a
profusion of furs, reclining on a good sled, with a pair of noble
bucks for horses, and on such a night too. The road was so
hard and level, and the sled-runners so smooth, that, though
we traveled like the wind, not the slightest motion was per
ceptible. Nothing but the rapid clattering ofthe deers' hoofs
and the confused mass of dark tree-trunks and foliage sweep
ing by apprized us of our headlong pace.
At length we approached the station, the same in which
we had slept on first reaching the post-road. Notwithstand
ing the pleasure we had experienced from the ride, I hailed
with joy the glare of torches with which the occupants of the

THE SETTLED TUNGUSIANS. 263
yourt had assembled outside on hearing the clattering of
hoofs ; for by this time my susceptible nose had succumbed
to the tamperings of Jack Frost, and the one position which
I had been obliged to keep on my sled had made the last half
hour's ride very tiresome.
Romann Caramsin, the Tungusian starasta to whom we
were indebted for our ride, was the owner of this and several
other stations along the post, also of many of the deer used
on the route. He hired different families to occupy the huts
and take charge of the post-animals, paying them a mere tri
fle, which, in fact, was all their services were worth, since their
duties were almost nothing.
The settled Tungusians whom we had thus far encountered
were far inferior to the wanderers, possessing neither the ro
bust constitutions, spirited and independent dispositions, nor
cleanly habits of the latter. Not that I would wish to con
vey the idea that any of them were very cleanly, but the
wanderers were so far superior to the others in that respect
as to be entitled to have it classed as one of their virtues.
They were all extremely hospitable, simple-minded, and peace
able; none of them very courageous,but all very superstitious.
Nearly all of them had been baptized into the Greek Church,
and were very rigid in the observance of the forms of their
new religion ; but beyond the mere forms they seemed to
have little idea of it. Their old beliefs still had a strong hold
upon them, and, though professed Christians, I have frequent
ly seen them make small offerings to the spirits whom they
believe inhabit all large mountains and rivers. These offer
ings often consist of nothing more than a few grains of tobac
co ; but it is not the quantity of an offering that propitiates
the spirits in their belief; they think the mere observance of
the form is sufficient. Many of them still have great confi
dence in the power of their shamans, who correspond to the
medicine-men of our American Indians, and in cases of sick
ness will oftener resort to them than to the Russian doctors.
They have adopted the Russian form of civil government,
their head man being called the "golivar." Their territory
is divided up into districts, over each of which a starasta pre
sides, and under these is still another grade, called " starsha-
na." The officers are elected by the majority of the tribe,

264 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
and usually hold office during good behavior, or until the
people tire of them.
They were formerly ruled by princes called Caramsin, from
whom nearly all the natives in this vicinity claim descent, the
name being more common than any other. They are quite
aristocratic in their notions, and sustain the family dignity
in good style. It was quite amusing and unexpected to hear
them speak in the most contemptuous manner of this one and
that one who pretended to be Caramsins, and had assumed
that name without just title to it.
Owing to the presence of Romann, we found the yourt in
a much more inviting condition than on our former visit.
Then, every thing was dirty and neglected ; but it might have
been different had we not taken them so by surprise. On
this occasion, all about the place was clean and carefully laid
away, the dirt floor nicely swept, and the bunks upon which
we were to sleep thickly strewn with fresh green boughs. A
large wood fire was cheerfully crackling in the chual, and
several large copper tea-kettles were already singing over
the blaze. Music certainly has charms, and wields a magic
influence over both man and beast ; but the finest composi
tions of Mozart, Beethoven, or any of the great composers,
are tame when compared with this same feeble, monotonous
simmering of the tea-kettle, as listened to by the chilled and
wearied traveler. '
According to our usual custom, tea was taken while sup
per was being prepared, in which Romann joined us. Know
ing the fondness of these natives for that beverage, we pre
pared a large quantity, and seated ourselves around a rude
table, occupying the positions of host and guest at the same
time, a very common thing while sojourning in these yourts.
It was our intention to drink to the utmost of our capaci
ties, to keep Romann company, but my short experience en
abled me to dispose of only seven moderately-sized teacups-
ful. Mahood exceeded me by one, and had to withdraw.
We encouraged Romann to go on, excusing ourselves for
withdrawing on account of inexperience ; and he did go on,
not inverting his cup — which is a sign of sufficiency — until
he had filled and emptied it seventeen times. Even then he
appeared reluctant to do so.

NEW G U1DES.—THE ALDEMIR RIVER. 265
Our deer and guides had already arrived. The latter were
two quite intelligent -looking young scions ofthe Caramsin
family. As our journey was to be a very difficult one, and
a large amount of snow-shoeing would be required to break
trails in the deep snow, they had hired a third Tungusian to
accompany them with two deer especially for this purpose;
This latter individual was a curiosity, very taciturn and obe
dient tp his employers, who now and then vented the super
fluity of their aristocracy upon his humble uncombed head.
I doubt whether his hair had been combed for many a moon.
He wore it quite long, a perfect mass of labyrinthian knotti-
ness, terminating in long, uneven locks, that stood out in all
directions like serpents. For this reason, from the outset we
called him Medusa, notwithstanding dissimilarity in sex.
It was our intention to have left the post-route a few versts
back, nearer Ajan, and to have taken an easier route toward
the mouth of the Aldemir River, which lay in our course ;
but a Tungusian, who had been sent over a portion of the
route, upon returning reported the entire absence of deer-
food in that vicinity, and we were compelled to pursue a
much more difficult route.
On the morning of our departure, February 7th, a strong
northerly wind was blowing. This, however, did not deter
us from making a start, though it was 10.30 before we left
the station, owing to some of our deer getting loose and wan
dering back to the feeding-grounds, about two miles distant.
Taking a northerly course, and facing the disagreeable
wind, for about four versts we made a gradual ascent, when
we found ourselves confronted by a steep, bare ridge, over
which the route led. The ascent was very difficult, on ac
count of the smooth bottoms of our torbassa and the strong
gusts of wind that opposed our progress ; but, once on the
summit, traveling was much better, the snow being entirely
swept from the ridge. From this we descended to quite a
large tributary of the Aldemir River, called Ephshe by our
guides, and crossed it at a point about ten versts below one
of the post-stations erected upon its bank.
Following the course of the Ephshe a few versts, we then
left it, taking a northeasterly course up another small tribu
tary, the head of which we reached at 4 P.M., and, finding

266 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
good deer-feed, camped for the night, simply building a large
fire and spreading a few boughs on the snow to sleep upon.
The snow had been deep and soft the greater part of the
way, and the weather quite mild, the thermometer ranging
at —4° Fahrenheit throughout the day.
Our natives seemed to regard the journey we had under
taken as no trivial affair, judging from the ceremony each
went through before starting in the morning. Advancing
to the images in the corner of the yourt, they all prostrated
themselves before them, and, after bowing and muttering
prayers for several minutes, invoking the protection of the
saints during the long and perilous journey they were about
to undertake, each took from the corner small crucifixes they
had previously suspended there, and fastened them about
their necks. At night they hung them to the boughs of a
large spruce-tree near our camp-fire, and repeated the cere
mony. Contrary to our expectations, the first night in camp after
our long rest was fully enjoyed by all, and we awoke thor
oughly refreshed.
Leaving camp at 8.30 A.M., all on snow-shoes, we contin
ued a northeast course down the Micache River, near the
source of which we had camped the night before, and, though
the snow was deep and soft, with the assistance of Medusa
and his deer we made very good progress.
The road-breaking process was not as difficult for Medusa
as it had been for Diana on our last journey. One of his
deer had been trained to the work, and, where the country
was open, it was only necessary to attach a long seal-thong
to the animal by which to guide it, when the animal, fully
comprehending its duty, would plunge forward into the deep
snow, and flounder a path through for the loaded animals
that followed. The guiding could be done without dismount
ing from the saddle, but we all felt great sympathy for the
poor animal on account of its noble exertions, and, where our
snow-shoes could be of any assistance, relieved him by going
ahead ourselves.
At 11 A.M. we struck the old trail of a dog-sled, probably
going to the mouth of the Aldemir for seal-meat, which is the
only food to be obtained for these animals this winter. This

THE TOUCHA RIVER— CONFLAGRATIONS. 267
trail we followed down the Micache River to the Aldemir
(which latter, at the junction, is two hundred feet wide), and
thence along the Aldemir in a northerly direction until 4
P.M., when we left the river on the west bank, and ascended
a long, irregular hill, upon which we expected to find deer-
food ; but the whole country had been swept over by a con
flagration, and-the deer-moss destroyed.
We could not camp without feed for the deer, so were
compelled to push forward until seven o'clock. During the
last hour we had to grope our way through the darkness, fre
quently stumbling over charred logs and stumps, and could
find no food until we had crossed to the west bank of the
Ilpangee River. This stream, the guides told us, is a tribu
tary of another, called Toucha by them, which, in its turn,
flows into the Aldemir. At night it was windy, but not
cold, the thermometer indicating + 9° Fahrenheit.
February 9th was still warm, and threatening clouds over
head led us to expect a snow-storm, but at night it was again
clear. We did not leave camp until 10 A.M., as Vassilly, one
of the guides, told us we could not go more than twenty-five
"versts that day, on account of the absence of deer-food for a
long distance beyond the place at which he expected to camp.
Crossing a low ridge, we struck the Toucha above the mouth
of the Ilpangee. This stream is here about two hundred feet
wide, and flows for a long distance in a straight course S.S.E.
The snow was less than a foot in depth at this place, proba
bly owing to the formation of neighboring ridges which shel
ter the valley. This is known to be the case in many places
in the country. We kept up the Toucha until 3.30 P.M., and
arrived at the mouth of a tributary called Oulinkan, flowing
from a direction N. 20° E. ; thence up the Oulinkan four or
five versts to the anticipated feeding-ground ; but, since Vas-
silly's Tisit a number of years ago, a fire had swept this re
gion also, and it was only after considerable search that we
found a spot suitable for camping.
Nearly the whole of these valleys have at some time been
swept by conflagrations, the causes of which are unknown to
the natives j and where a fire has been, for a long time after
ward but little deer-food is to be found.
I was told in Ajan that gold had been discovered on the

268 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
Toucha River, but not in sufficient quantities to pay in min
ing. These streams are all easily accessible in summer by
sea, and most of them are navigable for whale-boats or
canoes. The next morning, February 10th, we started at 8 A.M.,
continuing up the Oulinkan to its source, and then crossing
a high mountain range to the head of a branch of the Cachee
River. The Cachee flows north for some distance, and then
empties into the Oldan, which last stream flows eastwardly,
and empties into the Okhotsk Sea.
The ascent ofthe hill was so gradual and the snow so hard
that we experienced but little difficulty in reaching the sum
mit, after which we strapped on our snow-shoes, and, leaving
our deer with Ivan and the guides, pushed on down the steep ,
hill, sometimes sliding for long distances without stopping or
making any exertions except to preserve our equilibrium.
Half a mile below the summit we again encountered timber,
and at 4 P.M. found the remains of an old hut. Near this,
stretched between two trees, was a string, to which was fast
ened seven small pieces of cloth and buckskin, some of which,
judging from their appearance, had been hanging there a very
long time. The meaning of these we could not comprehend
until our guides arrived and told us they were offerings made
by hunters to the spirit ofthe mountain we had just crossed.
Usually, the guides told us, this mountaiu is very difficult to
pass, and hunters, either if about to cross it or having just ef
fected a passage, make offerings to appease the spirit, or as a
token of their gratitude for a safe passage. By the time the
guides arrived we had already loosened it from the trees to
show them and ascertain its meaning, but this act they con
sidered a great sacrilege, and manifested considerable uneasi
ness until it was replaced. Then, to fully reassure them, Ma
hood fastened a fragment from an old pair of red unmention
ables in his possession to the string, where it will probably
wave for many years to come. In the morning the tempera
ture was hardly below zero, but by night it had fallen to
-18° Fahrenheit.
February 11th. — Some people say that above the fiftieth
parallel there is no Sunday, and it certainly seems so with us.
The day comes and goes, and if it were not for our note-books

NO SUNDAY.— HARD TRAVELING. 269
and daily entries we would soon lose all reckoning, there is
so little difference between yesterday, to-day, and what will
be on the morrow. We continued our course down this
stream to the Cachee, and thence along the Cachee in a direc
tion N. 70° E. until 12.30 o'clock, when we ascended a tribu
tary flowing from a northwesterly direction.
The snow was very deep and soft, particularly on this last
stream, and traveling was exceedingly hard, so much so that
our deer could barely sustain their packs from weariness. We
were hardly better off ourselves, owing to constant snow-shoe
ing during the day. This, with a renewal of the old pains I
had experienced from my ankle while ascending the Goram
River, made a halt very desirable, and by 4 P.M. we were
once more ensconced in our conical tent. The thermometer
ranged from —4° to —19° Fahrenheit during the day.
Near this point the Juggur range approaches the coast, and
is so high and rugged as to preclude the possibility of ad
vancing farther without crossing it to the head waters of
some of the tributaries of the great Lena.
In accomplishing this we anticipated great difficulty, and
eagerly watched every change in the temperature and the
heavens, fearing lest some indications of a storm might dis
close themselves; but the morning ofthe 12th of February
dawned clear, beautiful, and mild, our thermometer indicating
only —7° Fahrenheit. We left camp at 8 A.M. in the high
est spirits at being favored with so fine a day for the passage,
and all hands cheerfully strapped on their snow-shoes to once
more tackle the deep soft snow that had so exhausted our
selves and animals on the previous day. The traveling was
miserable in the worst sense of the word, over the frozen bed
of a narrow, crooked torrent, choked up with large, loose
boulders, hidden under the light snow. Over these ourselves
and deer were constantly stumbling, not only risking pa
tience, but bones. At length we had to abandon the stream
altogether and take to the banks, which were very uneven,
presenting a succession of steep ridges and deep gulches
which we had to cross. To add to our difficulties, beneath
the snow was a perfect labyrinth of gnarled and knotted
stumps and branches ofthe trailing pine, of which I have al
ready spoken. These were, if any thing, more annoying than

270 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
the boulders in the stream ; but fortunately, after going a few
versts, we emerged from the timber, and found ourselves at
the foot of the main ridge, where the snow was sufficiently
firm to sustain our weights.
Since leaving the Cachee on the day before we had been
constantly ascending, and had already attained quite an ele
vation. By continuing up the gulch in which the stream has
its source, the ascent was very gradual, and the hard snow
had filled up all the inequalities of the ravine, making a
smooth, firm road, except in several places where avalanches
had swept down the mountain sides and blocked it up with
huge snow boulders. A strong, unpleasant wind blew down
the gulch, carrying with it clouds of light snow into our faces,
and choking up the fronts of our hoods ; but this only served
to remind us of what difficulties we should have encountered
had the day been less propitious. Once upon the summit of
the Juggur range (for the second time), with twenty strides
we could step from snow that would eventually find its way
in torrents and cascades to the Okhotsk Sea, to other which,
by long windings and a sluggish current, after traversing for
thousands of miles the great plains of Siberia, would at length
find its way through the mouth of the Lena to the perpetual
ice ofthe Arctic. Mountain peaks loomed far above us on all
sides, but, upon the whole, the range was less rugged here
than below Ajan.
We descended on the westerly side very rapidly, notwith
standing the snow was soft and deep, though the decline was
gradual. The face ofthe country was entirely different from
that east of the ridge. Instead of deep, narrow gorges, it dis
played wide, shallow basins, over which the larch timber was
more evenly distributed than on the other side.
We traveled N. 40° W. for about twelve versts, and then
crossed a small lake or frozen swamp. From this lake, taking
a course N. 20° E. for about six versts, we arrived at another
about two miles wide. Leaving this, we traveled N. 65° E.
until 4.30 P.M., and camped on the banks of a stream called
Multan, which winds its way through a large, desolate plain,
from which nearly all the timber had been burned by some
great conflagration. On all sides black, charred stumps reared
their heads above the snow, which was not more than a foot

MOUNT BULKLEY— IMPROVEMENTS IN DEER. 271
in depth. Now, for the first time since leaving Algasee, we
could look toward the horizon over land without having our
vision obstructed by mountain ranges. To the north and
west appeared in the dim twilight a boundless plain.
February 13th. — Last night when we camped it was a lit
tle misty on the horizon, and we supposed there were no
mountains in the neighborhood, but this morning, just as we
were leaving camp, we discovered through the mist, far up in
the heavens, several light streaks, which we at once knew to
be the salient ridges of some mountain peak lighted up by
the sun. It bore N. 20° E. from camp, and was about twen
ty-five versts distant. As our guides knew no name for it,
we called it " Bulkley" Mountain, after the chief engineer of
our expedition. For a long time.it appeared to be an isolated
peak, but as the mists rose we discovered that it was the east
ern terminus of a high range running westward, and forming
the northern boundary of the large basin we had been trav
ersing since crossing the Juggur Mountains. The Multan
drains a large portion of this basin, and, with a very winding
course, passes between low hills about four versts east of
Bulkley Mountain, after which its general course is northerly,
though very serpentine, sometimes flowing directly south.
After flowing a long distance, it empties into the Ouey, thence
into the Mai, and through the Mai and Aldan into the Lena,
according to the statement of our guides. They also stated
that another stream, called the "Ulkan," has its source in this
same basin, but finds its way eastwardly through the Juggur
range, and empties into the Okhotsk Sea.
In the direction we wished to go, sixty versts from camp,
on the Multan, Vassilly, one ofthe guides, told us we would
find an old Tungusian living, from whom we could procure
¦ fresh meat. Wishing to reach his place before night, we
made quite an early start, traveling all day on the frozen,
snow-crusted stream. The traveling was so good that we
were able to trot our deer a portion of the way, which varied
the usual monotony ofthe journey. As we advanced north
ward in our travels, we found the reindeer becoming much
more active and spirited, and sometimes even quite vicious.
This was probably awing to their greater numbers, and, con
sequently, comparatively little usage. The few that exist

272 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
near and below Oudskoi had been broken down by continu
ous traveling.
During the morning we had quite an amusing exhibition
of the viciousness of one of them. It was a large white ani
mal upon which Medusa rode. Getting tired of being punched
so incessantly by the staff of its rider, who was urging it on
at a quick pace, the animal became obstinate, and refused to
move at all. Medusa became indignant, and struck the ani
mal across the antlers with his staff, but was the next mo
ment picking himself up from the snow, where he had been
thrown. Again he mounted, and was for a second time kicked
from his saddle by one of the hind feet of the deer, but still
retained hold of the halter. The third time he tried it with
the same result, and, finding it useless to attempt to ride,
after severely beating the animal he started ahead on foot,
leading it. The beast followed meekly about two rods ; then,
suddenly lowering its head, it rushed forward, butting Medu
sa a short distance below the small of his back with such
force as to half bury him in the snow. The astonishment ex
pressed upon his countenance as he arose was perfectly ludi
crous, and, in spite of the poor fellow's aches, we could not
restrain our laughter.
At length night overtook us before we could reach the
yourt, though we had made upward of sixty versts, following
the windings of the stream ; yet, had not two of our deer ab
solutely given out, we would have pushed on through the
darkness.

PROVISIONS FOR SICKNESS. 273

CHAPTER XIX.
Alarming Considerations. — Health.— Prospects of Sickness.— Ptarmigan
again. — Black Cocks.— Feeding-grounds. — Arrival at Yourt. — Sojourn. —
Epicurean Repast. — Wealthy Native. ¦ — Liquor. — Bear - spears. — Bear-
traps, etc. — Under the Weather. — Yalbandya.— Tota. — Deserted Camp. —
Fish-traps, etc. — A beautiful Sunset. — Peculiar Passion ofthe Reindeer,
and Manner in which the Natives profit by it. — Menmoioon Mountain. —
False Alarm. — Neotl River. — Half-way House. — Deserted. — Tents and
Reception. — News ofthe Major. — Cossack and Dispatches. — Style of Tent.
— Caldron.— Native Hospitality. — Killing the fatted Deer.- — A Native
Repast. — Mode of Eating. — Tungusian Ugliness. — A brace of Beauties. —
Costume. — The Charm destroyed. — 36° minus Fahrenheit. — A Night with
the Natives. — Miakan. — Elikan. — Deceived. — Tungusian Settlement. —
Old Ivan the Starasta. — A Great-grandfather. — Tea. — A well-deserved
Rebuke. — Difficult Conversation. — French in Disrepute. — Mode of killing
Deer. — Esquimaux Game of Ball. — Shamanism. — Original Creed. — Good
and Evil Spirits. — Condition of Uncertainty. — Worthless Priests. — Shaman
Incantations. — Shyness. — Rascality. — Miraculous.Cure. — The Price. — Ar
rival of Cossack Sergeant. — News of our old Companions. — Successful Ex
plorations. We had often thought, since starting out on our winter
journeyings through this wild, almost uninhabited region,
what a sad calamity it would be should any of our party be
taken seriously ill, or meet with any accident. ¦ For a man in
perfect health and spirits, this kind of traveling is exceeding
ly difficult and trying ; what would it be for one with a
broken limb, or helplessly disabled through sickness ? No
roads, no medical attention, intense cold, and almost impasSa-
ble mountain ranges . to traverse — the bare thought of it
makes one shudder.
In our conversations on the subject we had settled upon
the only plan to be pursued in case of such an emergency.
The supply of provisions to which we had been limited from
the outset would not have enabled us to linger much on the
way, and our only plan would have been to construct a rude
stretcher to be borne by two deer, one following the other.
But this, in ascending steep, icy mountain ridges, upon which
both men and deer were constantly slipping, or while strug-
S

274 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
gling through thick woods floored with an intricate network
of trailing pine concealed beneath the snow, or up the rug
ged bed of some frozen stream strewn with boulders, would
most probably have proven to be the patient's bier. We had
brought no medicine with us, partly on account of our lim
ited transportation, and partly through an ignorance of its
uses, but mainly owing to robust constitutions, and an un
wavering confidence in the beneficial effects of plenty of pure
cold air and vigorous exercise. We still adhered strictly to
the plan of stripping ourselves to the under-clothing for sleep
ing, and of bathing our heads and hands in snow morning and
evening, no matter what the temperature might be. To this
custom we were probably indebted for the slight effects of
cold upon us ; for, though sleeping in our light canvas tent
or in the open air without fire, and no more covering than a
single blanket lined with rabbit-skins, I don't remember at
any time having suffered from cold during the night except
on two occasions, when I awoke and found my nose frozen.
In spite of an abundance of pure cold air and vigorous
exercise, for two days past I had experienced some inconven
ience from a severe cold, and on the morning ofthe 14th of
February awoke with an excruciating headache, which, how
ever, I partly attributed to a dense smoke with which our
tent was filled on the previous evening while preparing sup
per. A good rubbing of my face and hands with snow part
ly relieved me, and by 8 A.M. we were once more on the
road, filling our lungs with refreshing draughts of cold air
at a temperature of —20° Fahrenheit.
For the first time since leaving Ajan, shortly after starting
we once more encountered animal life in the shape of some
of our old friends the ptarmigan, or Arctic grouse ; and in
crossing one of the bends of the river we scared up several
of the large black cocks, such as we had seen in the fall be
low Tugursk. They arose from the snow, into which they
had burrowed deep holes for protection against the cold,
and, with a loud whirr, sailed off into the woods before we
could get a shot at them.
An hour and a half's traveling brought us to a spot on the
east bank of the river where a large number of deer had been
feeding. For a long distance on all sides, beneath the trees,

A WEALTHY NATIVE. 275
the snow had been dug up in small circular patches by the
hoofs of these animals in search of moss, but none of the-ani-
mals were in sight.
Another half hour brought us to the yourt of the old Tun
gusian, who proved to be a brother of old Ephraim, the bear-
hunter, whom we had seen on the Naugtara River. This
yourt was situated about twenty versts in a direct line north
of Bulkley Mountain, and two days' journey — about eighty
versts — above the junction of the Multan with the Ouey.
In the yourt was another old Tungusian, who had the repu
tation of being very rich; also an old woman and two boys;
from all of whom we had a most cordial reception, accompa
nied with persistent requests that we would not continue our
journey until the next day. Our deer were badly used up
by the journey of the previous day, and, in order to give
them rest, we readily accepted their invitation.
Soon we were luxuriating over a good allowance of the
most delicious meat I have tasted for many a day — that of a
young deer, and so fat, juicy, and tender that, in any other
but a cold climate, we would hardly have relished it; but
here it is par excellence, and, accompanied with fine tea and
reindeer-tongues, affords a feast which the most fastidious
would enjoy.
In answer to our inquiries as to the number of deer the old
man owns, he replied that " he did not know ; he could not
count far enough to find out." Since fall he had lost more
than a hundred, that had been killed by wolves or had wan
dered off with wild deer, but had been partially repaid, as he
had during the winter shot twenty-five wild deer feeding in
the midst of his herd. He says he is poor when compared
with some others, who own so many that they make no pre
tensions to keep track of them. An animal that would have
cost thirty roubles at Oudskoi can be purchased here for a
small bottle of liquor.
It is curious how all people in all climes succumb to the
passion for strong drink. No more powerful weapon can be
wielded by his Satanic majesty or his earthly emissaries for
the accomplishment of evil. The possession of it will induce
many of these people to part with every thing they have,
barely excepting life, though I dare say the villainous com-

276 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
pounds that are frequently imposed upon their credulity has
cost many of them even their lives.
Bear -hunting seemed to be the specialty not only of
Ephraim, but of his brother also, judging from the skins and
bear-spears that were lying around. These latter were of
Yakout manufacture, and exhibit skill and taste in their con
struction that would do credit to our own artisans. The
blades are about ten inches long, of symmetrical proportions,
and are inlaid with beautiful designs of scroll-work and other
patterns in brass and copper. The spear, however, is rarely
used, except in dispatching an animal that has been trapped,
or wounded and disabled.
Two kinds of traps are used by these people. One is a tri
angular pen, constructed of heavy logs ; one side is left open,
but the roof, which is supported by triggers somewhat re
sembling the figure 4, is so arranged that in falling it closes
up this side, completely penning up Bruin, and then he is at
the mercy of his captors. The other is simply a strong bow
fastened to a tree or forked post on the side of a trail fre-

BEAR-TKAl'.

BEAR-TRAPS — UNDER THE WEATHER. 277
quented by these animals ; a string, stretched across the path
and fastened to the trigger, is so fixed that, the moment the
bear's leg presses it, the bowstring is freed, and a long shaft
is driven into the animal's side. But there is nothing to pre
vent the animal from traveling on as long as life remains.
Sometimes it goes several miles before falling, and not unfre
quently escapes altogether. This snare is also used for moun
tain-sheep and wild reindeer, though for the latter a simple
slip-noose suspended over their trail is sufficient, as their ant
lers are almost sure to get entangled in it.
The morning ofthe 15th was quite cold, —26° Fahrenheit.
The rest had not benefited my cold any, and, upon starting
out, I found great difficulty in riding my deer, owing to a se
vere headache, accompanied with fever. The slight jars oc
casioned by the stepping of the animal made the torture al
most unendurable. . This I tried to avoid by walking where
it was possible. The snow was deep, and traveling hard ; but,
after going a few versts, we struck an old trail leading in the
direction we wished to take, which lessened our difficulties
very much. We took a northerly course up a small tribu
tary of the Ouey until 2 P.M., when, arriving at its head, we
crossed a low ridge to the source of another stream, which
Vassilly called Yalbandya.
From the top of the ridge we had an extensive view of the
country we had been traversing since leaving Bulkley Moun
tain, which peak loomed up far to the south. Viewed from
this point, it is a very prominent landmark. The whole
country was literally alive with ptarmigan. At 4.30 P.M.
we camped on the Yalbandya, having made about twenty-
five miles during the day. The trail we had been following
was one made by the rich old Tungusian in search of some
of his deer.
The night was passed very miserably by me, but, not wish
ing to declare myself an invalid, and having strong hopes of
overcoming my tendency to sickness, the following morning
we pushed on as usual. The journey was very trying, but
toward night I experienced a complete revolution in feelings
for the better. We continued our northerly course down the
Yalbandya, still following the old man's trail, but, shortly
after leaving camp, it terminated, and we were again com
pelled to break a road for ourselves.

278 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
A few versts farther we encountered a wide frozen swamp,
across which a cutting westerly wind was sweeping, driving
with it clouds of fine crystallized particles of snow. Twice,
while crossing it, my nose became frozen, but each time I
promptly restored it by the application of snow. At this
point the Yalbandya changes its course to due west, and,
after flowing for about ten versts through a gap between
low hills, empties into a stream called the Tota.
At 1 P.M. we reached the banks of the Tota at a point
where a Tungusian tent had been recently pitched. The frame
was still standing, and near by, suspended to high poles, were
pieces of deer-meat and cooking utensils, which showed that
the place was only temporarily abandoned. Two dead crows
kept these company, and served as a reminder to their former
companions of what fate they might expect if they molested
it. The spot appeared to be the permanent abode of some
family, as two lines of wicker-fence were extended across the
bed ofthe river, in which were several openings where fish-
traps were set, such as we had seen near Solavaoff's, on the
Aria River.
Having crossed the Tota, we commenced the ascent of a
long low ridge, but made slow progress on account of deep
snow until half way up, when we struck a good trail coming
from somewhere down the river.
From the river-bed this ridge appeared to be perfectly
naked, but as we advanced we found that it was covered with
a thick growth of small spruce-trees, which were so complete
ly covered with light snow as to make them undistinguisha-
ble at a short distance. We crossed the ridge just as the sun
was sinking into an ocean of amber-colored sky in the south
west, and a more enchanting sight I never beheld. The sum
mit ofthe ridge we had just crossed, with its snow-burdened
forest, was all aglow with the sun's parting rays, and reared
itself against the bright eastern heavens like a mountain of
golden fleece, while the lower part, buried in the cold, ashy
hues of approaching darkness, through brilliant contrast,
served to make the former doubly resplendent.' The ther
mometer indicated — 19-£° Fahrenheit, and the atmosphere
was filled with crystallized particles, sparkling in the reflect
ed light, and bathing the fading landscape in a golden mist.

A PECULIAR PASSION OF THE REINDEER. 279
From the ridge we descended into the valley of the Um-
tongee, where we camped at 4.15 P.M., but not before I had
my nose frozen for the third time during the day, much to
my alarm as well as discomfort. Vassilly succeeded in shoot
ing three squirrels, of the same variety we had previously
seen, the skins of which he preserved to sell to some trader.
One of the greatest peculiarities of the reindeer, which I
feel justifiable in mentioning here, as it is one ofthe strangest
traits of this little-known animal, is its extreme fondness for
human urine. The scent of it makes them perfectly frantic,
and, abandoning food or rest, they rush wildly from all quar
ters to procure it. A general fight, accompanied with the
clashing of antlers, invariably ensues, and the person frequent
ly finds it necessary to arm himself with a stout club for pro
tection. The Tungusians often take advantage of this trait
to capture an animal that has broken loose from the train or
from its rider, though a mere feint is all that is necessary, as
the deer understands the movements, and, to satisfy its curi
osity, will approach near enough to be seized.
At 8 A.M. the following morning the thermometer indica
ted —31° Fahrenheit. I have frequently noticed that, just as
the sun is rising or setting, it is colder than at any other time
during the twenty-four hours.
In a northeasterly direction from camp was a high, promi
nent peak, called " Menmoioon" by our guides, from which,
extending in a northerly direction, was a low ridge, in which
a small tributary of theUmtongee has its source; this stream
we followed to its head, continuing on yesterday's trail. At
one point we struck a perfectly fresh trail going south, which
at first alarmed us a little, as we feared it might be a party
sent from Okhotsk in search of us ; but shortly afterward we
came upon their deserted camp, from the appearance of which
we knew the party was native. Besides, numbers of loose
deer were in the train, which satisfied us that the party was
not on a lengthy journey.
After crossing the ridge about two versts north of Men
moioon Mountain, we descended into the valley of a small
tributary ofthe Neotl River, which we followed in a north
erly direction to its mouth, and then took a northeasterly
course up the Neotl, passing numbers of old encampments.

280 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
About 4 o'clock Vassilly surprised us with the information
that before night we would reach the old Tungusian's, the
half-way point to which he had bargained to carry us. This
we did not expect until the following day, but the old trails
we had found shortened the time considerably. We now had
a large, well-beaten trail for the next ten versts, over which
our deer traveled at quite a brisk trot, seeming to realize that
their journey was about completed. The snow on both sides
of the trail for miles was cut up by the hoofs of these ani
mals, indicating the proximity of a very large herd. Just at
dark we reached a yourt similar to the one we had left three
days before, but found it deserted. However, we were satis
fied that the family could not be very far off, so took formal
possession for the night. The afternoon was somewhat warm
er than the morning, —22° Fahrenheit.
The morning ofthe 18th was even colder than that ofthe
day before, —33° Fahrenheit. Selecting the trail that ap
peared to have been used most recently, we continued our
journey up the Neotl at a lively trot, to overcome the cold,
but had not proceeded more than seven versts when we came
upon a couple of skin tents, pitched on the side of a low, bare
hill. The barking of dogs aroused the inmates, and in a few
moments we were surrounded by a motley band of men,
women, children, dogs, and deer, curious to know what kind
of creatures we were. They were partly expecting us, as six
days before a Cossack, accompanied by a native, had passed
through the settlement for Nelkan, with dispatches for us
from Major Abasa, who had arrived in Okhotsk some time
before. Further than this we could-learn nothing. We had
unfortunately missed them, they having taken a different
route from that pursued by us.
These natives were very lavish with their offers of hospi
tality, but we were anxious to reach the tent of the old sta
rasta, three versts farther, so excused ourselves with many
regrets and apologies, and, after a brisk ride of half an hour,
arrived at the spot. Here were four tents, with a proportion
ate amount of natives, dogs, and deer, but the old starasta
resided four days' journey farther, they told us. However,
two of his sons received us, and promised deer to carry us to
their father's tent. As it would be necessary to wait until

A TUNGUSIAN REPAST. 281
the following morning, we accepted lodgings with them for
the night.
These Tungusians use a tent somewhat different from those
below Ajan. It is conical, and made of skins like the oth
ers, but is raised upon light poles about four feet above the
ground, around which other skins are stretched, making a
kind of wall. It is much more roomy and comfortable, but
not so easily and quickly erected. In the centre of the tent
we occupied was a huge copper kettle, large enough to cook
a whole deer in at one time. Its size betokened genuine hos
pitality. Certainly the inmates of the tent could not require
such a kettle to supply their own wants, hence we inferred
that there were generally visitors enough to make it requi
site. These rich old Tungusians, though rude in their natures,
and not very nice in their customs and dress, are models of
hospitality. No man ever left their tent with an empty
stomach, nor did one ever enter without having food and
lodging forced upon him. We had hardly unloaded our
deer before Egory, our host, had slain one of the fattest of
his herd, and shortly afterward the tent was filled with de
licious fumes and savors arising from the mountain of rich,
juicy meat in the big caldron.
We ate our meal with our host, and a hearty one it was,
thoroughly enjoyed by all of us. But the enjoyment of eat
ing was nothing when compared with that we experienced
in seeing our guides and eight or ten others dispose of the
huge pile of meat laid out before them in large wooden trays.
Sheath-knives were their only table implements. Each one,
taking a huge piece of venison, put as much of it as he possi
bly could in his mouth, and then, by a dexterous up-stroke of
his knife, shaved it off close to his lips, the edge barely graz
ing the end of his nose as it severed the meat. Little chil
dren were as expert as the adults in handling their knives,
and, though I was in constant dread of seeing one of their
noses- sliced off, the caldron was emptied without a single
accident. Tungusian women, as a class, are far from being prepos
sessing in their appearance ; indeed, I can't conceive of hu
man beings having more hideous countenances than they

282 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
generally possess. With many the cheek-bones monopolize
the greater part of the face, and their eyes are simply long,
very narrow slits, through which two small, cold, expression
less black balls peer. They have scarcely any intelligence,
nor have the men, with few exceptions, as their low, narrow,
and retreating foreheads indicate. But their affections are
very strong, and their large hearts more than compensate
for many of their mental delinquencies.
^To see a good-looking Tungusian girl or woman was a
great episode in our travels — so much so, in fact, that we
never neglected making a note of it in our journals. Re
markable as the fact may seem, upon entering our host's
tent we found ourselves confronted by two of them, perfect
oases in the desert of ugliness that surrounded them. Their
clear, semi-transparent brunette complexions, rosy cheeks,
large, full eyes, and faultless teeth, would have graced any
woman ; these probably accounted for the numerous visitors
their father received. Their features were not altogether void
of Mongolianism,but possessedjust enough of it to add a wild
charm to their beauty. Their costumes were in keeping with
their station, for they were great heiresses, and of good fam
ily. Fresh, new, neatly-fitting suits of spotted fawn -skins,
cut after the usual pattern, composed their dress ; and their
feet were incased in the neatest little fur-boots, the tops of
which, together with small aprons and other articles of their
apparel, were decorated with fancy patterns of bead -work.
In addition to the large silver ear- and finger-rings usually
worn, each had a broad, handsomely-engraved silver collar,
such as we had not before seen, fastened around her neck.
But, alas ! there is an end to all things earthly, and so I found
it with the fascination to which my susceptible nature had
slightly yielded at first sight of these belles. When dinner
was announced, they were the first at the trays, and a more
skillful handling of sheath-knives or rapid destruction of edi
bles I never beheld.
Here we separated with our old guides, who claimed that
they had fulfilled their agreement in bringing us half way ;
but Egory told us it would yet take twenty days to reach
Okhotsk. If such should be the case, Vassilly deceived us
greatly ; but he had been so faithful in every other respect

IVAN, THE OLD STARASTA. 283
that we preferred to treat.it as an error of the head and not
ofthe heart.
We started out the next morning, February 19th, in a tem
perature of —36° Fahrenheit, having large, fresh deer and a
good road. Egory and an old Tungusian, whp groaned all
the way from cramps of the stomach, accompanied us as
guides. Ascending the Neotl a few versts, we crossed it and
took a northerly course until dark, when we reached a spot
where two families were encamped. With one of these we
passed the night quite comfortably, in spite of ill odors, a
blinding smoke, and the constant groans of our poor old
guide. The following morning was much warmer, —20° Fahren
heit. From the tents we crossed a low wooded ridge, and
descended into the valley of the Miakan, a branch of the
Neotl. Having crossed a frozen lake, produced by the over
flowing of the Miakan, for several versts we traversed burned
land, and then, passing over another ridge, descended to the
Elikan, a tributary of the Mia.
Across the Elikan we ascended another ridge, reaching the
summit at 3 P.M. Here were good feeding-grounds, and our
guides were anxious to camp, as for the following fifteen
versts the country had been burned over, and it would be
very late before we could reach deer-feed. They assured us
that, by making an early start the following morning, we could
reach the old starasta's that day ; and, being anxious for the
Okhotsk Cossack to overtake us with his dispatches, we de
cided to camp. There was no doubt but that the Cossack
would hurry back on his trail as soon as he should hear of
our departure at Nelkan.
The next morning, after crossing the burned tract and two
low ridges, much to our surprise, at 1 1 A.M. we came to the
group of tents where the starasta lived. It was now plain
that Vassilly had not deceived us, but that these natives had
made the distance longer in order to get a better bargain for
the use of their deer. The journey which they said would
occupy us four days, might not, in reality, consume more than
a day and a half.
The tents, of which there were four, were pitched in a
group in the midst of a forest of larch, with a slight sprink-

284 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
ling of spruce -trees. The snow was all tracked up by the
feet of deer, about forty of which made a charge down on our
train as we approached the tents, but were easily driven off.
Upon hearing the rush, about twenty natives crawled from
their tents, old Ivan, the starasta, at their head, and received
us very cordially. We were guided to the tent of one of the
other natives, for which the old man apologetically excused
himself on the ground that he had become a great-grandfather
the night before. We decided to remain here until the Cos
sack should overtake us, and immediately set Ivan and the
guides at work pitching our tent near by. In the mean while,
seated cross-legged on the green boughs in the tent ofthe
starasta, we discussed the contents of a large kettle of tea
with our host ; but when we withdrew after the first three
cups, he expressed the greatest astonishment, and in a half-
injured tone asked us if his tea was not good. We assured
him that it was excellent, and, after expending a good many
words, made him understand that Americans were not accus
tomed to tea, and could not drink much of it. This seemed
to amuse him very much, and he told us that he had many
times, singly, emptied two kettlesful at a sitting — about six
quarts. This we had no reason to doubt ; but, to please the
old man, we expressed great astonishment, and complimented
him as best we could for his great achievements. He ap
peared very anxious to know all about us, our names, resi
dences, and asked numberless questions about America and
Americans. We answered all as best we could, which was
no trifling thing, as both questions and answers were trans
lated into four different tongues before reaching their desti
nation. Swartz converted them from English into Russian,
Ivan from Russian into Yakout, and Egory translated the
Yakout into Tungusian. During the conversation he unin
tentionally administered to us a very severe and probably de
served rebuke, which somewhat nonplused us, and, I confess,
I hardly knew what answer to make. It was just as we seat
ed ourselves to drink tea. He, according to his religious cus
tom, before taking a mouthful, devoutly bowed his head, and,
muttering a short prayer, crossed himself before a small im
age suspended to the side of the tent. Having noticed that
we did not do likewise, he said nothing for some time, but at

FRENCH IN DISREPUTE— KILLING DEER. 285
length broke the silence by asking, "Do the Americans have
a God?" We immediately knew what suggested the ques
tion, but had to answer "Yes." At this reply he appeared
much puzzled, and was again silent for some moments, think
ing. Finally he again raised his head and asked, "Do the
French have a God ?" Our answer, " Yes," seemed to puzzle
him all the more, and it was some time before we could com
prehend why he had asked the same question concerning the
French. We afterward learned that nearly all of these na
tives have a very bad opinion of the French, founded on ex
aggerated accounts of the barbarity of those people during
their war with Russia. How these accounts ever reached
this remote section it is difficult to trace, but they certainly
have a bad opinion of the French people, and the old man
probably thought that if the Americans, who exhibited so few
traces of religion, had a God, it might be possible that even
the French had one.
Not knowing how long we would remain here, and our
meat having given out, for a mere trifle we purchased a fine
young deer, which our Tungusian friends offered to kill for
us. The animal was very wild, and had to be lassoed. The
Tungusians have a superstitious dread of shedding the blood
of an animal in killing it, and, having fastened one end of a
seal-thong to a small tree, they wound it round the deer's
neck, and, drawing it tightly, fastened the other end to an
other tree. They then began to tighten it by resting their
weights upon the thong, and in that manner proceeded to
choke the animal to death. At first we did not comprehend
their movements, but, as soon as we discovered their chief ob
ject, Ivan, our Cossack, dispatched the animal with his sheath-
knife. This aroused the alarm and indignation of the whole
settlement. But, feeling that they were absolved from all
responsibility in the matter, they soon quieted down.
We were astonished at finding the game of ball, as de
scribed by Dr. Kane in vogue among the Greenland Esqui
maux, and more commonly known among our American
youth as "shinny," to be a very common pastime here.
Large numbers of little fur-clad Tungusians were amusing
themselves at it all the morning in front of the tents.
Ever since we commenced our journeyings among the

286 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES. .
Tungusians, we had longed for an opportunity to witness
the incantations of some of their shamans, but, the practice
being at variance with their newly -adopted religion, they
rarely employ it, except in a very quiet way and where it is
not likely to be known. Still, they place the most implicit
confidence in their shamans, and almost invariably, in cases
of sickness or misfortune, resort to them to intercede with
the evil spirits for their recovery or relief. Their original
belief (and one to which the great majority still strictly ad
here) was in a large number of good and evil spirits, asso
ciating one of the latter with each species of disease. They
have some idea of a Supreme Being, but him they believe to
be always benevolent, consequently do not consider it neces
sary to offer any particular homage to him.
The main object of their worship is to appease and propi
tiate other spirits, both good and evil, with whom they be
lieve their shamans to have great influence. But, since the
introduction ofthe Greek religion among them, many of them
express an utter inability to know what to believe. Like the
planets, held in their positions by the two great forces of op
posite tendencies, so they are poised in a state of confusing
uncertainty, drawn strongly in one direction by superstitious
beliefs and the pagan doctrines of their fathers, which they
had been taught since infancy, and in the opposite by the
pure, ennobling doctrines of Christianity. Unfortunately for
the advancement of the Christian religion among them, the
priests, to whom they look for instruction, are, many of them,
wholly incapacitated for the responsible positions they hold,
through ignorance and a lamentable absence of all those vir
tues prompted by their religion. They seem to consider their
responsibility at an end, as regards each native individually,
whenever they succeed in persuading him, through the prom
ise of tobacco or trinkets of some kind, to become baptized.
At length, on the morning after our arrival at the old sta-
rasta's, we thought our desire to see the shaman ceremony
would be gratified, since old Ivan came to our tent saying
there was a sick man in the settlement who wanted the sha
man to perform over him, and asking our permission for him
to do so. Why he should ask our consent we could never
tell ; but we readily gave it, and, in return, asked permission

SHAMAN INCANTATIONS— COMRADES HEARD FROM. 287
to witness the ceremony. Soon Ivan returned, saying that
the doctor was unwilling to have any spectators, as it would
destroy the effects of the incantations, so we were obliged to
content ourselves by listening from our tent.
Soon we heard the most hideous groans, hisses, and yells
issuing from the sick man's tent, accompanied by the beating
of a drum, now low and measured, and then suddenly increas
ing in sound and rapidity until the noise appeared sufficient
to kill the most healthy man in the settlement. Again the
drumming subsided, and the groans and yells increased, ac
companied with low, quick mutterings, when suddenly all
other sounds would again be drowned by the drum. This
continued for three hours, at the end of which time we were
all heartily sick of shamanism, and the patient was declared
much better.
The man was very poor, having only two deer, one of which
he had to give the doctor as compensation for his services.
These shamans are, many of them, great rascals, and impose
upon the credulity of their patients sometimes to the extent
of extorting from them all they have in the world. Several
of them have been severely punished by the government au
thorities, which is one reason for their being so shy.
The Cossack did not arrive until the third day of our so
journ — Friday, February 23d. From- the dispatches we
learned that Major Abasa was alone in Okhotsk, Mr. Ken
nan, with Mr. Dodd, who had joined the party at Petro
paulovski after our departure from that place, having left
the major at Ghijigha, a town at the northeastern extremity
of the Okhotsk Sea, and gone northward to Behring's Sea in
search of Mr. Macrae's party, that was supposed to have been
landed near the mouth of the Anadyr River. The major had
been in Okhotsk several weeks, and, hearing nothing of us, had
dispatched the Cossack, with a native interpreter, in search of
us. All were in perfect health, and their explorations had
been crowned with the greatest success.
During our three days' rest the temperature had ranged
from —20° to -30° Fahrenheit.

288 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

CHAPTER XX.
Herding Deer. — Nightly Detail. — Separating the Herd. — A Charge. — Our
Caravan. — Arteran River. — Asungorun. — Colowinga Ridge. — Trouble
some Deer. — Deermanship. — Guides desire a Halt. — Deceptions. — Snap
ping Morning. — Our Tent at Daybreak. — Morning Routine. — Striking
Fire. — Justifiable Profanity. ¦ — A bejeweled Landscape. — Forty-six De
grees below Zero. — Early Start. ¦ — Asungorun. — Burned Tract. — Nuednice.
— A dead Forest. — Parhelia. — Ounene. — Mertee. — Mixed-up Geography.
— Alexai's Brother. — Deserted Yourt. — Dispatch Messengers. — Their Suc
cess. — The Convention. — Meeting ofthe Brothers. — Undemonstrativeness.
— A Night Search. — A frigid Region. — Mahood's Departure. — Arrival of
Deer. — On the Road again. — Horseshoe Course. — Mahood's Camp. — Ele
vated Lands. — Across the Juggur. — Contrast. — Descent. — Urta River. —
Encampment. — Tala. — Umka. — A Treat. — Military Necessity. — Coulom-
kan. — Long and last Journey with Reindeer.- — Dogs again. — Down the
Oulia. — Sled from Ourak. — Departure for Ourak. — Swartz as Rear-guard.
— Along the Coast. — Poorga Guides. — Ourak. — Habitations. — The Ya
kouts. — Character. — Appearance.- — Early History. — Ending our Task. —
Okhotsk. — Disappointment. — Desolation. — Okhota River. — History. —
Summer Sports.- — Fish.
Where reindeer are owned in such large herds as was the
case with old Ivan, the greater part of them are in a state of
semi-wildness, and, though they will not flee at the approach
of man, yet their extreme shyness makes it very difficult to
capture them. Like sheep, they always herd together, and
look to certain animals as their leaders. Wherever these
leaders go they follow, but can rarely be induced to precede
them, except after being thoroughly trained. The Tungusians
always make it a point to train these leading deer first, and
to accustom them to the presence of man, after which they
serve as herders for the rest, and prevent them from wander
ing off. This trait lessens the care ofthe owners very much,
though great vigilance is required on their part to protect
the herd from wolves, which are constantly prowling about.
To effect this, one or twoTnen are nightly detailed as a guard,
an arduous task during some ofthe extremely cold or stormy
nights. The deer for our journey had to be separated from the rest
of the herd, which numbered upward of three hundred, and

HERDING REINDEER. 289
lassoed, and to accomplish this, all the men, women, and chil
dren in the place were called into requisition. It was quite
a novel sight to see the animals dashing about beneath the
trees in large bands, their heads surmounted by a forest of
antlers, clashing together and causing a noise as if two armies
were engaged with single-sticks. Here and there in the midst
of the flock, or rushing around to head them off, were the na
tives, large and small, whooping and shouting at the top of
their voices, while many of the men, with long seal-thong las
soes, stood ready to capture those destined for the journey.
At length all were secured, and the work of packing and sad
dling being soon completed, we once more resumed our jour
ney. We had hardly gone 300 yards when a loud clattering of
hoofs was heard, and, looking back, we beheld the whole herd
dashing up, intent upon following us. Nothing could be
done but to halt and summon the population once more. Half
an hour devoted to running and shouting sufficed to drive
them back, after which we were allowed to proceed in peace.
Four Tungusians accompanied us, to relieve e'ach other in
breaking a road. These, with the Cossack sergeant and his
interpreter, in addition to our own party, made quite a re
spectable caravan. Having a good road, we traveled quite
briskly to overcome the effects of the cold, which, though not
as severe as we had experienced during many days, —25°
Fahrenheit, yet was sufficiently stinging to be unpleasant
after our three days' indoor life.
Two versts north of the settlement we struck a small
stream called Arteran, running west and emptying into the
Nugimla, which in its turn flows into the Mia, a large tribu
tary ofthe Lena.
We traveled eastwardly up the Arteran about ten versts,
and then followed a small tributary flowing from the north
east about three versts. Here we had to cross a low, barren
ridge, with a strong, cutting wind blowing against our backs,
and descended to the head of a branch of the Asungorun.
This ridge is called Colowinga by the natives. We contin
ued our course northeastwardly down this stream for about
fifteen versts, and camped for the night near where the ser
geant had stopped on his way down. Thus far we had been
T

290 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
using the sergeant's trail, but, as his course had been very
roundabout, the next day we intended to leave it and take a
more direct course to the habitation of a Tungusian called
Alexai, from whom we expected to get a fresh relay of deer.
The next day, Sunday, 25th of Februalry, was still quite
cold, —25° Fahrenheit. We kept our northeast course down
the valley, breaking our own trail. This slow process, with
the manoeuvres of one of our pack-deer, delayed us very
much. This animal had never been packed before, and would
insist upon lying down in the snow every few minutes, or
would pull back so obstinately as to haul the load from the
shoulders of the preceding deer, to which he was fastened.
Then the train would have to be stopped in order to readjust
the load, for, as soon as the weight slips from the shoulders
to the back, the animal breaks down beneath it. This was
the cause of a great deal of delay during all our journeyings,
particularly in mountainous countries ; on an average, every
half hour during the day some pack would get displaced and
require readjustment.
Another of the deer, ridden by one of the guides, was also
not thoroughly broken, and caused us some delay, but we
were repaid by having an opportunity of witnessing a fine
display of deermanship. The animal was large, strong, and
active, and resorted to all kinds of tricks — kicking, bucking,
and stumbling, but could not dismount its rider. To us it
seemed a perfect mystery how the rider kept his seat, for, in
spite of our long experience in riding these animals, it was an
every-day occurrence for one or all of us to tumble off.
At 2.30 P.M. our men wanted to camp, and offered as an
excuse that, for a long day's journey ahead, all the deer-food
had been destroyed by fire. Long since we had discovered
that this was a favorite excuse with the Tungusians when
they wished to camp, and on several occasions we had been
greatly deceived, the burned tract not extending as far as
they had stated. Mistrusting something of the kind on this
occasion, and wishing to lose no time, we were disposed to
keep on, but one ofthe guides, a grandson of old Ivan, offered
to take a whipping the following clay if we should not find
it as he had stated, which satisfied us that we were not being
deceived.

STRIKING FIRE. 291
Upon opening my eyes the next morning and thrusting
my bead from beneath the rabbit-skins, I immediately per
ceived that it was uncommonly cold. Our little canvas tent
had a frigid appearance, and every thing was as quiet as
death itself. Not the faintest curl of smoke arose from the
little pile of ashes in the centre, and the circular hole over
head for the smoke to escape through was fringed with icy
crystals. Three piles of furs and blankets around me indi
cated the places where my companions lay, wrapped in ob
livion, and as many miniature snow-drifts showed where their
warm breaths, issuing from beneath the furs, came in contact
with the cold air. One glance was sufficient, and, having
awakened Ivan, I quickly re-covered my head to await the
kindling ofthe fire for the preparation of our regular tea and
deer-meat. .
Such mornings we- used to pity poor Ivan, but he didn't
seem to mind it much. He never undressed himself for
sleeping, so his morning preparations were very simple.
But then came the difficulty — to light the fire. Having no
matches with which to ignite it at a single stroke, some
times, for minutes, we would hear his flint and steel clashing
together, the sound being occasionally interrupted by mild
Russian oaths. Then we could -hear him blowing, trying to
light a shaving from the small spark on his tinder, when sud
denly all sounds would cease for a while, and then would
come a rattle of little stronger oaths, succeeded by other
clashing of flint and steel. But we never would stir until
we could hear the unmistakable crackling of burning wood.
By this time the frost that had accumulated on Ivan's mus
tache and hair while making the fire would be melted off, and
the tea-kettle singing over the blaze, when the good-natured
" pora stavatch" would cause a general upheaval of bed
clothes. Then, for about three minutes — not longer — with
chattering teeth and quivering limbs, we would be donning
our furs. This completed, the hot tea that now awaits us
soon restores us to a condition of comparative comfort.
On stepping outside the tent, all nature was incased in a
crystal covering. Trees that were dark the night before, at
a short distance could hardly be distinguished from the snow
upon which they stood. The effect was very striking, and

292 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
so frigid as to cause an involuntary shiver, even without the
assistance of the low temperature.
But when, at length, the sun climbed above a neighboring
hill, and cast its first beams upon the scene, as if by magic
the whole landscape was changed to one of exceeding beauty.
Every limb was studded with clusters of pearls and sapphires,
and every twig was strung with diamonds.
My first impulse was to start toward the thermometer,
which was suspended near the tent. The low temperature
0f _46° Fahrenheit explained all. Seventy-eight degrees be
low the freezing-point ! This was by far the coldest weather
any of us had ever experienced.
Having a long days' journey ahead of us, we left camp at
7.30 A.M., crossing the valley of the stream which we had
been descending for nearly two days. From this we ascend
ed a low ridge densely covered with dead trees, over which
we traveled for about five versts, and then came to the Asun
gorun. This stream is here about two hundred feet wide, and
flows west through quite a wide, wooded valley interspersed
with small barrens. Not the first sign of living vegetation
was to be seen any where. On all sides dead, charred trees
and logs proclaimed the fearful havoc of some great confla
gration. Whenever our train stopped, our deer would in
stinctively thrust their noses into the snow in search of
moss, but immediately withdraw them with an air of disap
pointment. We took a northeast course diagonally across this valley
until 2.30 P.M., when we passed another low divide to the
Nuednice, a tributary ofthe Mia. Crossing this, we ascend
ed a small branch flowing from the northeast, and traveled
until 5.30 P.M. before we emerged from the range ofthe fire
and found deer-food. We had been on the road ten hours
during the day, having made about ,forty-five versts in spite
of deep snow and the necessity of breaking a trail. It is
needless to say the guide did not take the whipping. By
night there was a considerable change in the temperature,
the thermometer indicating —34° Fahrenheit.
The following morning, February 27th, it was again colder
(—40° Fahrenheit), and we witnessed a magnificent display
of the same phenomena we had seen at the head of the Mai-

LOW TEMPERATURE. 293
mikan on New-year's morn. The parhelia rivaled the bril
liancy of the sun itself (which latter was dimmed by a frozen
mist that hung over the earth), and the arches and circles of
light were composed of the most brilliant rainbow hues.
Leaving camp at 8.30 A.M., we followed up yesterday's
branch a few versts, and then crossed a low ridge to a stream
called Ou-ne-ne by the Tungusians. This stream is a tribu
tary of the Mertee, which latter finds its way eventually into
the Lena. We found it almost impossible to get any idea of
the windings and courses of the innumerable streams that
drain this immense inland territory. The information we
obtained from the Tungusians was so conflicting, in many
cases, that we were obliged to abandon all idea of tracing
them, and we also found that different natives had different
names for the same streams. That they all find their way
into the Lena eventually is the only thoroughly reliable in
formation we could obtain in relation to many of them.
We continued down the Ounene all day in a northeasterly
direction until 4 o'clock, when we happened to meet a Tun
gusian hunter, who proved to be a brother of Alexai, the man
we were in search of. The hunter had not seen Alexai since
the previous summer, though living within one day's journey
of him, and expressed doubts as to the latter having sufficient
deer to carry us on. To avoid unnecessary delay, we imme
diately dispatched him in search of his brother, to notify him
of our approach, and to request him to gather together the
requisite number of deer for us from some other natives,
should he not have enough of his own. Here we camped
for the night. At dark our thermometer indicated —29°
Fahrenheit. February 28th, at 7 A.M., —31° Fahrenheit. Immediately
after breakfast we started two of our men ahead to break
a trail, ourselves following half an hour later. From camp
we took an easterly course down the Ounene, occasionally
crossing small barrens, and, after proceeding about eight
versts, came to the Mertee, at this point flowing directly
north. On the east bank, running along the foot of a low
ridge, we found a large, well-beaten trail made by deer. The
last animal that had passed went down stream, out of our
course, and the tracks of only one led up the river.

294 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
Near by was a yourt, in which, our guides told us, Alexai
usually lived. Toward this we directed our steps, sending a
man in advance to learn whether or not it was still occupied.
We soon met him returning, having found no one, and, being
uncertain which way to go, determined to camp, and send out
the guides — one up the trail, another down the river, and a
third in search of the hunter we had met the day before, as
it was evident he had not yet started in search of Alexai, his
trail being nowhere visible. He was to have come to this
place first.
At 2 P.M., the one sent on the back track arrived, bringing
the hunter and family with him, having met them on the road
to this place ; and at 6 P.M. our guide from up the river re
turned, bringing Feador, another brother of Alexai's ; but
the third did not reach camp until 8 P.M He was equally
as successful as the others, however, and brought back three
natives, so that where in the morning not a human being
was to be found, at night there was an assemblage of seven
teen. I was much surprised at the meeting of the two broth
ers. Though months had elapsed since last seeing each other,
neither exhibited the slightest traces of astonishment or de
light at meeting here ; but, after simply saluting each other
with three kisses, according to the custom of the country,
without uttering a word of inquiry, they seated themselves,
and began to fill their pipes to smoke. Whether this reti
cence was owing to deference toward us, or is a tribal trait,
I am unable to say.
From this point our guides told us it -would be better to
ascend the Mertee to its head, and then recross the Juggur
range to the Oulia River, which empties into the Okhotsk
Sea about one hundred and forty versts below the town of
Okhotsk. From the mouth of the Oulia we could continue
our journey to Okhotsk with dogs ; but, as there might not
be a sufficient number of these animals at the place, in order
to have the requisite number in readiness, Mahood deter
mined to start on the following morning in advance with
the sergeant, his interpreter, and three of the natives.
Alexai lived still farther up the river than Feador, and, as
we could not procure sufficient deer without his assistance,
it was necessary for the rest of us to wait a while longer.

A HORSESHOE COURSE. 295
Being favored with beautiful moonlight nights, we again
started off two of the guides without delay to find Alexai.
At dark the thermometer indicated —29° Fahrenheit. We
were now in the proximity of the coldest region on earth, or,
at least, that in which the severest cold has ever been record
ed, the thermometer sometimes indicating —76° Fahrenheit,
or 108° below the point at which water freezes. The coldest
temperature experienced by Dr. Kane was —69°.
March 1st. — Mahood started in the morning with five deer,
and a temperature of —34° to facilitate his movements. Our
two guides did not return until 1 2 M. They, however, brought
back Alexai and another.Tungusian, who agreed to accompa
ny us; but their deer and families did not arrive until quite
late, and we were compelled to postpone our start to the fol
lowing morning. Our guides had had quite a hard night of
it. After finding Alexai, the three started out and rode all
night in search of other Tungusians, to procure deer from
them, and, when they found them, their trouble was repaid
by a refusal to grant any assistance. This was the first and
only refusal of assistance we had experienced from any of the
tribe. By 8 o'clock the next morning our deer were in readiness,
and we started out up the Mertee in a southeast direction.
At 10.30 we arrived at Feador's tent, where we stopped long
enough to consult our pipes, and then pushed on, having fine
traveling on the ice of the river for about eight versts. We
then left the Mertee, and, striking through the woods in a
northeast direction, came to the He-re-rin, one of its branches.
Up this branch, in a direction nearly due north, we traveled
until 5 P.M., passing Mahood's camp of the previous night,
and making about forty versts, having Mahood's trail to aid
us. Our course during the day had been like a horseshoe,
but the guides told us we could not have taken a more di
rect route without being obliged to cross a high and difficult
ridge. The next morning it was again quite cold, —38° Fahren
heit. It being our intention to make a long day's journey
and cross the Juggur range, we made an earlier start than
usual. A few versts from camp we struck a large barren or
tundra, through which the He-re-rin winds. From the farther

296 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
side of this barren the pass through the range was distinctly
visible, distant about twenty versts. But none of us would
have recognized in the low, inferior ridge ahead of us the
Juggur range, that had reared such obstacles before us on
former occasions. In fact, the whole country we have been
traversing west of the range is of great elevation, and slopes
so moderately toward the bed of the Lena that many of the
streams have very little current, and wind almost directly
back on their courses in places. Without having made scarce
ly any perceptible ascent, at 1 o'clock we found ourselves
on the divide, but beyond the whole aspect of the country
changed. Steep, rugged mountains, and deep -chasms and
gorges succeeded the' wide, rolling basins of our last two
weeks' travel.
Here we once more resorted to our snow-shoes for pleas
ure, and dashed down through a heavily-wooded chasm at an
almost break-neck pace. Frequently, to avoid trees, we would
have to throw ourselves at full length on the snow to check
our speed. The change in the nature ofthe country, and the
fact of our task being so nearly completed, made the day's
journey very enjoyable.
At 3 o'clock we passed Mahood's second encampment, that
of the night before. Smoke was still rising from the embers
of his camp-fire.
At 5 P.M. we camped on the banks of the Urta River, the
same we had been descending since crossing the divide. This
stream is a tributary of the Tala, which in its turn flows into
the Oulia. We found the snow much deeper east of the
range. Temperature at night, —29° Fahrenheit.
The following morning it was again much colder, —38°
Fahrenheit. We continued down the Urta River, arriving
at its junction with the Tala at 10 o'clock, and then followed
the course of the latter nearly due east, when we came to a
Tungusian encampment at 1 P.M. Here we stopped only a
few minutes. From the inmates we learned that Mahood had
camped with them the night before, and had sent a native to
Coulomkan, a settlement on the Oulia, about forty versts
above its mouth, to get dogs in readiness for his farther jour
ney. At this point we left the Tala, and, after ascending a
small branch about five versts, crossed a divide to a branch

LAST DAY WITH REINDEER. 297
of the Umka, which we descended to its mouth, and thence
down the Umka to the Oulia.
At 6 P.M. we arrived at a deserted yourt, where we deter
mined to stop until 10 o'clock P.M., to give our deer a rest,
and then push on by moonlight to Coulomkan. Here we had
a genuine treat in the shape of some fine frozen trout that
the former occupants had stored away for future use. We,
however, confiscated some of them as a "military necessity."
At 10 o'clock we renewed our journey after refreshing
naps, pushing on by the light of a brilliant moon until 2
o'clock A.M., when we came to a couple of yourts in a poplar
grove. This was Coulomkan ; but every thing was quiet as
death, and we began to fear that the place might be deserted;
at length, by hallooing, we managed to provoke a feeble bark
from an old dog that crawled from beneath one of the houses.
This aroused the natives, who then came forth and invited us
in. They were not expecting us until the following night.
Mahood, who had arrived early in the evening, finding the
dogs ready, had pushed on to the mouth of the river without
making a stop.
Ourselves and deer were thoroughly exhausted by the long
day's journey, having made upward of seventy versts. This,
our last journey with these animals, was the longest we had
ever made in one day with them. Though I did not regret
changing our mode of travel for dogs, I must confess that our
long journeys with deer had created quite an attachment for
them on my part, and I felt very much as if parting with old
friends. At this point we found four dog-teams awaiting us, but the
sleds were small and the animals so poor that they were in
sufficient to carry us to the mouth of-the river. By putting
the dogs together we made two respectable teams. With
these Swartz and I started on in the morning, taking half our
baggage, and leaving Ivan to follow with the remainder on
deer. The Oulia is an exact counterpart of the Goram in
size and character. We found very little snow — so little, in
fact, that in places the traveling was quite hard for our dogs.
We reached the yourt near the sea at 4 o'clock P.M. In the
evening a Yakout arrived with a sled from Ourak, a village
one hundred versts farther north. He had met Mahood on

298 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
the road, and, by his request, came on to assist us. It was
our expectation to wait here two or three days for other sleds
to arrive ; but now, having three nartas at my disposal, I de
cided to push on with what baggage I could carry, leaving
Swartz to follow with the other sleds when they should ar
rive. Ivan did not reach the yourt until 1 o'clock the fol
lowing morning.
We made an early start with the three sleds, traveling
northward along a wide stretch of barren country, bounded
on the east by the sea and on the west by the Juggur range,
which is here quite low. We crossed several small streams
flowing to the sea, but very little timber was to be seen ex
cept on the distant range. A strong, disagreeable wind swept
the tuudra all day, carrying with it light clouds of snow,
which made the journey very unpleasant. My driver told
me that it was a very common occurrence for men to get lost
in poorgas or severe storms while making this trip ; and, as
guides to such, all along the route, at short intervals, wooden
tripods had been erected, the evenness of the country pre
senting no landmarks whatever.
At 8 P.M. we had accomplished the one hundred versts,
and arrived at Ourak, a Yakout settlement containing eight
or ten yourts, situated in a grove of stunted spruce-trees. I
was immediately conducted to the house of the starasta, and
could not help remarking the cleanliness of every thing as
contrasted with the habitations of the Tungusians. Two or
three neatly-dressed women immediately busied themselves
preparing tea and supper for me, which they spread on a
clean table. But what gave me most satisfaction was a large
bowl of fresh, genuine cow's milk, thick with rich cream.
The yourts of these Yakouts were much larger than the
others I had seen, and were constructed with greater regard
to comfort. A row of bunks extended around the room as
in the others, and various articles of furniture of their own
manufacture, such as chairs and tables, filled the inner space.
A large, crackling fire, in a well-built chual, cast a cheerful
glare about the room, and every thing about the place pro
claimed the thrift and industry of its occupants. I discovered
only one drawback to the whole establishment, and that was
a strong odor of cattle and stable that pervaded the apart-

THE YAKOUTS.

YAKOUT YOUET.

ment. This was soon explained by the bellowing of cows in
an adjoining apartment, separated from the one in which I
was sitting by an open log partition.
The Yakouts are by far the most superior and numerous
tribe of Eastern Siberia. They dwell in permanent abodes,
and are very domestic in their tastes. Horses and cows are
their constant companions, even sharing their houses with
them. Both are highly esteemed for their flesh, and the
milk of the latter figures largely in their bills of fare. They
manufacture a kind of butter by boiling the milk, which is
greatly used by the Russians, all over the country, as a sub
stitute for lard, and it even answers as a good substitute for
table butter. They possess considerable intelligence, and dis
play much acuteness in bargaining, but are particularly re
markable for their ingenuity in manufacturing jewelry, trink
ets, and metal- work of all kinds, and in carving ivory after
the manner ofthe Chinese and Japanese. Some of their de
signs are very beautiful. The town of Yakoutsk, 1000 versts
distant, was built by them some three hundred years ago,
and contains about 6000 inhabitants, mostly of their tribe.

300

REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

YAKOUT WOMAN.

ings I never beheld.H

The Russians were a long time in
conquering them, but, since that event,
they have adopted the Russian lan
guage, customs, and religion, and are
quite devout, though many of them
still retain a lingering belief in sha
manism. They are of fair stature, and have
more regular features than any ofthe
other natives we had met. - Their com
plexion is also generally lighter, and,
in many of the women, is of a livid
hue. This can not be owing to ill
health, as a more robust class of be-
" Yakout" is a name given them by
the Russians, for what reason I do not know. They for-
rfierly called themselves Zinzacha, or Zinzogotock, from one
of their princes, and were composed of ten different sub-
tribes, numbering altogether more than thirty thousand souls.
They were originally united with the Bratti, a large tribe
Hying in the neighborhood of Lake Baikal, but from these
they subsequently seceded, and settled on the banks of the
Lena. Their religion was very similar to that of the other
Siberian tribes, though they did not worship carved idols
like the Tungusians. They
offered sacrifices to one great
invisible God, of whom each
tribe had an image, with a
stuffed bag for a body, sur
mounted by a' huge hideous
head. All trees they looked
upon as sacred objects, and
uncommonly fine ones they t
used to decorate with vari
ous trinkets. On the death
of a prince, Mtiller says, it

YAKOUT MAN.

* Intercourse with the Russians has greatly improved the condition of the
Yakouts, as will be seen by reference to a translation from S. Muller, publish
ed in 1761 , in London, by Thomas Jeffries, entitled "Voyages from Asia to
America for completing the discoveries ofthe Northwest Coast of America."

APPROACH TO OKHOTSK. 301
was their custom to sacrifice or bury alive with him his old
est servants or favorites, but other dead they sometimes left
in the streets of Yakoutsk to be devoured by dogs. One of
their original peculiarities they still retain — their voracious
appetites. At feasts they used to strip themselves, in order
that their stomachs might have full scope for expanding, and
it was a frequent occurrence for some of them to die on the
spot. Never was devout Mussulman, on his approach to Mecca,
more elated at the prospect of fulfilling his life's dream, and
terminating his pilgrimage, than was I upon finding that only
twenty-five versts intervened between me and my destination.
Nearly five months had elapsed since our departure from
Nikolayefsk, and at last the goal was about attained, in spite
of the predictions of our Amoor friends, who, no doubt,
thought us long since retired to the shades of Hades. The
distance traveled was not more than 1200 miles, but the time
consumed and obstacles overcome had made it apparently
three times as great.
After seeing sleds started toward the Oulia for Swartz, so
great was my eagerness to be on the way that for once my
tea was not relished, and daylight found us once more rapid
ly gliding along the barren coast. An hour and a half aft
er starting, I thought myself near enough to distinguish
Okhotsk. Ahead for at least twenty versts was an unbroken
barren plain, bounded on the farther side by a low range of
white hills. No signs of a town were visible, the even white
ness of the plain being disturbed only in one spot by an ob
scure, low, dark object, resembling a portion of a burned log
jutting from the snow. I felt satisfied that I had been de
ceived as to the distance, and no doubt showed some signs of
my displeasure, for the driver immediately gave a knowing
grin, and, pointing to the burned log, exclaimed " Okhotsk !"
It is hardly necessary to say that I was disgusted. As we
approached nearer, my Mecca gradually disclosed itself, and
I at length was enabled to make out a small collection of
low, dirty log houses, in the midst of which stood a small
church ofthe same material, surmounted by a dome and tow
er, but not a tree or shrub was within miles, or any object
whatever to shelter it from the fury of the winds, no matter

302 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
from what direction they might blow. I never beheld any
thing more thoroughly desolate in its aspect. We approach
ed the town from the southwest, but, owing to bad ice on the
Okhota River, were obliged to take a very circuitous course,
and enter it from the north ; and shortly afterward my driver
drove up to a very plain, low log house, in front of which
were two or three sleds, and twenty or thirty fine team-dogs.
Once dismounted, and my journey was at an end. Neither
Major Abasa nor Mahood were expecting me until the follow
ing day.
Okhotsk was once a town of comparatively great impor
tance, but when Nikolayefsk was founded it was almost de
serted. From here Behring started out on his voyages of
discovery, his vessels having been built and launched at this
point. The town consists of about thirty houses, heaped to
gether without any regularity, in the midst of which, on an
open space, stands the church, an unimposing log structure.
Most of the former houses have been torn down and burned
for firewood. The place contains about three hundred inhab
itants, consisting of Russians, Cossacks, and Yakouts. An is
pravnik also resides here ; he, with two or three fur-traders,
comprising the aristocracy.
The streets, if they can be so called, were literally alive
with crows and magpies. No other shelter was afforded for
these birds within a scope of miles.
In summer, however, the ispravnik afterward informed me,
the place presents a much more cheerful aspect, and is quite
a pleasant place to reside in. Game of all kinds abounds,
from bear to grouse, and in the month of August the River
Okhota so teems with fish, that for a time the waters are
made unfit for use, on account of a taint imparted to it by
dead ones. The latter constitute the chief food of the na
tives and peasants, and annually thousands are dried and
stored away for winter consumption, both for themselves and
dogs. Potatoes of small size, and a few other vegetables,
can be raised, but the inhabitants are not much inclined to
ward agriculture. The dogs constitute a very important feat
ure of the place, and are of a fine large breed. In summer
they wade into the river and do their own fishing, and rare
ly fail to procure their regular meal.

END OF OUR JOURNEY. 303
Quarters were soon provided for us by the kind assistance
of the ispravnik, and in two or three days we were comfort
ably established to await the arrival of vessels in the spring,
up to which time we expected to lead a life of indolence.
But the prospect was not at all cheering, as the town and
neighboring country afforded so few means of enjoyment,
and I very early began to regret the completion of our jour
ney. It was the major's intention to start back immediately
for Ghijigha to meet Kennan, and make preparations to pros
ecute the work of building the telegraph line upon the ar
rival of vessels with men and material at that point.
Meanwhile we reluctantly discharged Ivan, our Cossack,
and, having paid him liberally for his services, both in money
and various presents, he once more turned southward to re
join his family at Oudskoi. Poor fellow, we did not envy
him the journey.

304 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

CHAPTER XXI.
Another Journey. — A comparatively pleasure Trip. — Short Notice. — Start. —
Last View of Okhotsk. — Pavoshkas. — Luxurious Traveling. — Our Teams.
— Indications of the Approach of Spring. — Tundra Hummocks. — The Sea.
— Salt Ice. — First Duck. — Post-yourt. — Ena. — Fast Traveling. — Our Re
ception. — Change Dogs. — Native Curiosity. — Politeness. — The Town. —
Poorga Indications. — Start. — Tumoff River. — The Poorga. — Frightened
Drivers. — Moral Persuasion. — Climbing the Mountain. — Sleds Lost. —
Pavoshka Traveling. — Lost in the Storm. — Dismayed Drivers. — A Lull.
— The Summit. — Furious Descent.— Timely Precaution. — Narrow Escape.
— Broken Sled. — Snow Caverns and Precipices.- — Overhanging Masses. —
Dangerous Traveling. — Fish Deposits. — Team-dogs. — Distemper. — Te
dious Traveling. — Sled - road. — Cowey River. — Snow - squalls. — Road
Lunches.— Imperial Ermine. — Dead Dogs. — Late Traveling. — Tausk Bay.
— Hummocks. — Cutting our Way. — Repairing Sleds. — Tausk.
I had hardly become settled in the belief that my winter
journeyings were ended, and was but just beginning to be
come reconciled to the idea of spending the following four
months in the dreary, uninteresting little town of Okhotsk,
when, one morning, Vushin, the major's Cossack, entered my
quarters with a note from the major informing me that he
would start for Ghijigha the following day, and asking me
to accompany him.
To this I willingly assented, not only to gratify my curi
osity concerning the country and natives far to the north
east, but the seven days' taste of Okhotsk life had sated me,
and I felt that the most arduous traveling would be prefer
able to the stagnation that would certainly result from a
much longer sojourn in this town. Besides, the journey to
Ghijigha would be a pleasure-trip compared with the one just
completed, for we were henceforth to abandon reindeer-rid
ing, and adopt the less arduous, more comfortable, and rapid
dog-sleds ofthe Yakouts and Cossacks along the post-route.
In some countries one day would be considered short no
tice to prepare for a 1200-mile journey; but our Siberian
wardrobes, at the outset very incomplete, had dwindled
down to almost nothing — three or four pairs of old socks,

PAVOSHKAS— DOG-TEAMS. 305
with strings tied around the toes to close up some of the
holes, and two suits of ragged under- garments, out at the
knees and elbows. Reindeer-riding wears out clothing very
rapidly. Having procured a fresh supply of fur socks and mits, and
put on all my under- clothing, so that no part of my body
should be neglected, my preparations were completed. About
9 o'clock on the morning ofthe 15th of March the word was
given, and, with loud yelps and barks, our dogs started off,
soon bearing us beyond the sound of the final " good-bys"
and "prostiaties" of our American and Russian friends whom
we were leaving behind.
Dashing across the frozen surface of the Okhota River, our
route lay for some distance over a level, barren waste of snow,
from which, looking back, the dark group of log houses that
composed Okhotsk resembled more a pile of rubbish in a va
cant lot than a town. Gradually, as the distance increased,
the dark mass diminished in size, until, rounding a low, snow-
clad knoll, it vanished altogether from sight.
We had thought our first dog-ride on the Uda River the
perfection of winter traveling, but the comfortable " pavosh-
kas" with which we were each supplied on this journey sur
passed any thing in the shape of dog-sleds I had seen. These
pavoshkas are low, long, and narrow, like the ordinary narta,
but have a body constructed of thin boards, over the outside
of which sealskins are tightly sewed, making them almost
impervious to cold or moisture ; and, in addition, the whole
inside is thickly lined with long, soft bear or wolf skins, so
that the traveler is almost smothered in the profusion of fur.
The box or body extends the full length of the sled, and is
entirely covered over except at the back end, where the
traveler sits or reclines, thrusting his feet and legs under the
covered portion, which serves the driver as a seat. The back
portion of the sled has a top like that of a buggy, made to
raise or lower at the option of the traveler, and is also thick
ly lined with fur. If the weather be stormy, a boot, or skin
curtain, attached to the body of the sled, can be unrolled and
fastened to the top in such a manner as to completely shelter
the person inside ; but the driver has no protection whatever.
The pavoshka, though so comfortable in its arrangements,

306 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
is but little used except by the more wealthy, who can afford
to hire a driver, as it is impossible to manage or direct the
dogs while reclining inside. Nearly all the inhabitants pre
fer to drive their own sleds, which at times requires no small
amount of exertion and activity, and therefore keeps the blood
in circulation, thereby preventing them from suffering from
the cold. As the ordinary sled is much lighter and more
easily managed in traversing mountainous or rough country,
they always use it in preference. It is also much more con
venient for packing.
To each of our sleds were attached from fifteen to twenty
fine large dogs, perfectly fresh, and so invigorated by the
cool morning air that they could hardly be restrained by the
drivers from dashing off in a pell-mell race over the level ex
tent we were now traversing along the sea-shore. The slight
est movement of a dry leaf, or any object on the snow, would
attract their attention, and then a furious race would ensue
in pursuit of the object, resulting in a general melee and
tangling of traces and harness. This was owing to the half-
starved condition in which the dogs are kept while making
a journey. At such times they become so ravenous as to be
ready to devour any thing that has an appearance of life.
Already the approaching spring and neighboring salt air
had begun to affect the snow, and in many places the knotty
hummocks of the tundra were beginning to make their ap
pearance, offering quite a serious obstacle to our progress.
At these places all hands would lend their united strength to
assist the dogs in dragging our heavy sleds, and it was really
a pleasure to do so, as the noble little animals worked and
struggled with such earnestness, every muscle strained to the
utmost, and their tongues hanging from their mouths, each
one in the mean while giving short, quick yelps, as if to en
courage his companions. Fortunately we encountered but
few of these places, and the traveling was generally very
good. For the first half of the day our route lay along the imme
diate edge ofthe sea. The water was covered with rotten
salt ice, broken into large, irregular fragments by the action
ofthe waves, and piled upon each other in the greatest con
fusion. The ice extended as far as the eye could reach, inter- .

POST-YOURTS.—FAST TRAVELING. 307
spersed here and there with small open patches of water, in
one of which we saw a solitary duck paddling about, the first
to revisit his old haunts after the long arctic winter, and a
welcome harbinger of approaching spring to us, who were be
ginning to tire of omnipresent snow and ice. In the immedi
ate foreground huge fantastic boulders and blocks of ice were
grounded on the beach, some of them forty feet in height and
thickness. I was astonished at the great thickness of these
fragments, but, upon closer examination, found that they were
formed of several layers which had been forced one upon the
other and become cemented together. Many of them might
readily have been taken for stone or earth on account of the
sand and gravel that had clung to their sides while being
tumbled about in the surf before finding their final resting-
places. At noon, having arrived at a small post-yourt, we stopped
to refresh ourselves with tea, and to await the coming up of
some of our heavy sleds that had not been able to keep pace
with the others. These yourts were well-built, comfortable
log huts, erected at government expense along the routes
usually traveled for the protection of travelers during the se
vere storms that prevail during the winter months. Each
yourt consists of a single room, upon one side of which is a
low platform, upon which the traveler spreads his bed ; and
in one corner is a " chual," or fireplace, like the one we saw
at Solavaoff's, on the Aria River. They are unoccupied ex
cept by travelers, and are generally kept in good repair.
From the yourt we struck inland more, toward the foot
hills of the Juggur range, which at this place is of inferior
magnitude, and then continued our course eastwardly paral
lel to the coast until 10 o'clock P.M., when we reached the
half-Russian, half-Yakout settlement of Ena. The barking of
dogs as we approached the settlement was a most welcome
sound, as my feet and hands had been suffering much from
cold during the last two hours' ride, and the necessity of ly
ing in one position during the whole day made the journey
very tiresome.
After becoming accustomed to the slow progress and short
day's journey with reindeer, this seemed like very rapid trav
eling, and in fact it was, considering the conveyances. We

308 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
had made during the past twelve hours one hundred and
fourteen versts, or about seventy-two miles.
We were very hospitably received at the residence of a
Russian doctor, with whom the major had stopped on his
way to Okhotsk, and every thing that could be contributed
to make us comfortable was freely furnished. Early the next
morning all were astir making preparations for our farther
journey. Our exhausted dogs were exchanged for fresh ones
that were to carry us through to Tausk, and a noble lot they
were, each sled having from ten to twenty of the little ani
mals attached to it.
It did not take long for the news to spread through the
settlement that there was an American in the place, and as
most of them had heard of, but never seen one of these creat
ures, upon emerging from the house in the morning I heard
a general buzzing sound, and, glancing up, found about two
hundred of the inhabitants assembled around the doorway
to catch a glimpse of me. I was scrutinized from head to
foot, and every motion I made was followed by the eyes of
the assemblage as if in expectation of seeing me perform
some hitherto unheard-of feat; but withal they were very
polite, and each individual, down to the smallest child, threw
back his fur hood and bade me good-morning in Russian when
I made my appearance. Ena, like most of these small settle
ments, contains nothing to attract the attention of the trav
eler, and is an exact counterpart of the other villages I had
seen in the country.
The morning was dark, and milder than usual, and the
heavens were concealed by a dingy, threatening cloud, from
which indications our drivers predicted a poorga ; but, as we
felt certain of being able to reach one of the yourts on the
route in case of a storm, we felt no hesitancy in starting out.
It was 9 o'clock before our preparations were completed,
at which time, upon the signal being given, we dashed down a
steep bluff, with half a dozen natives clinging to our pavosh-
kas to prevent them from capsizing. We then bade them
" proschi," and soon the village was lost to sight. We con
tinued steadily on in an easterly direction, now traveling on
the winding bed of some frozen stream, and then through
stretches of larch forest, until about 3 o'clock P.M., when we

A POORGA. 309
came to a yourt on the Tumoff River, where we encountered
a number of sleds laden with dried salmon for dog-food, that
had been sent from Tausk to meet us.
At this point the route leaves the river and crosses a high
mountain ridge to the head of the " Cowey" River. The
poorga was now raging at its height, but the yourt was so
sheltered among trees that we did not feel its effects in the
least. Here we stopped to make tea, intending to push on
over the mountain and reach the yourt on the other side, dis
tant about twenty versts, before night. As soon as the driv
ers learned our intention, they assembled in mass, and begged
the major not to attempt to cross the ridge in that storm, as
they would get lost and perish, or be blown from the moun
tain sides down into the deep chasms. To these pleadings
they added accounts in which whole parties had been lost in
such attempts, and well-nigh persuaded the major not to go
any farther. But these poorgas sometimes last several days,
constantly increasing in fury, and, as we had neither foor for
ourselves or dogs to risk such a delay, we concluded that the
best thing to be done would be to push ahead as soon as pos
sible. At this some ofthe drivers revolted, and declared that
they would not stir from the yourt ; but the major, by a free
use of a well-selected assortment of Russian epithets, accom
panied by threats, and the unpleasant proximity of two or
three willing Cossacks, overcame their obstinacy, and ere long
we were working our way up the mountain side.
The wind was blowing a perfect hurricane, and, although
sheltered by a forest of larch-trees, the snow fell so fast that
we could not distinguish the leading dogs of our sleds. The
old trail was entirely obliterated, and we were left to pick
our way as best we might in the blinding storm.
Two or three sleds that were unable to keep up lost their
way, as the tracks of our sleds had become covered up by
the snow, and they only succeeded in finding us, after half an
hour's delay, by hearing the hallooing of the men whom we
had sent out within hailing distance of each other to discov
er their whereabouts.
The snow drifted into our pavoshkas so rapidly at the out
set that we raised the skin curtains, knowing that we could
be of no assistance to the drivers in finding the way ; and, al-

310 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
though the scene was of the wildest .confusion without, we
were completely sheltered from the storm, and might have
been perfectly oblivious of it had it not been for the howling
of the winds, above which we could at times faintly hear the
shouts ofthe drivers encouraging their dogs. Now and then
our sleds would thump violently against a tree, or almost cap
size in running over some hidden log, but no injury was sus
tained. After struggling for about two hours the train came
to a halt, and with blank countenances the drivers assembled
around our pavoshkas to inform us that they were lost. No
traces of the old route could be found, nor could any land
marks be distinguished by which they could direct their
course. At this juncture we decided that our only plan was
to camp where we were until the storm should subside ; but
just then the wind lulled a little, and we sent parties out on
snow-shoes in every direction to try once more to learn our
whereabouts. In a few minutes we heard a joyous shout far
to one side, and ere long all were hard at work assisting the
dogs in dragging the sleds up the last steep range ofthe
mountain. Once upon the summit we felt truly grateful, for
henceforth our route was all down hill to the next yourt.
The eastern side of the ridge was also completely sheltered
from the storm.
I could not help remarking the total absence of trees or
vegetation of any kind after passing the summit. Ahead, as
far as the falling snow would permit us to see, was nothing
but a dull whiteness, into which our dogs, after a few mo
ments' rest, plunged on the full jump, with loud, excited yelps.
The descent was very steep, and our headlong course so rap
id that we might have imagined ourselves falling from a
balloon. Not knowing what was ahead, the drivers, in order
to check the speed of their dogs, were compelled to spring
from their sleds and brace their feet forward against the snow,
at the same time thrusting their pointed staves or ostles into
the hard crust between the runners. The ostles tore up such
clouds of fine snow as to almost envelop each sled from the
view of the others.
This precaution for diminishing our speed Was taken none
too soon. The next moment we found ourselves on the brink
of a snow precipice about fifty feet in height, which we bare-

CACHES.— PRICES OF DOGS.. 311
ly had time to escape by guiding our dogs to the right. As
it happened, some of the dogs could not avoid going over it,
but they managed to direct their course to a place where it
was only twelve feet high, and escaped at the expense of a
broken sled and one injured dog, who fell beneath it. The
sled was soon repaired, aud our journey continued, though at
a more moderate pace. The route led down a narrow gorge,
in which the snow had accumulated to a depth of more than
a hundred feet in places, being blown from the neighboring
summits, and the traveling was excellent except when we
encountered precipices like the one we had just escaped.
These precipices are occasioned by the action of the winds
sweeping through the gorge with such force as to chisel out
large chasms in the vast amount of accumulated snow, some
times leaving perpendicular walls seventy feet in height,
packed nearly as hard as ice, and again in many places
scooping them out in such a manner as to leave tons' weight
of snow overhanging our trail. These masses were constant
ly falling, making the journey very dangerous, to say noth
ing of heavy snow-slides that blocked our path from time to
time. Only a short time before, my driver told me a man
and his dogs had been killed by the falling of one of these
masses. At 8 o'clock P.M. we arrived at a yourt near the
" Sheelcap" River. Of this we gratefully availed ourselves
for the night.
Before our departure the next morning, each driver, ac
cording to custom, deposited in small caches one day's al
lowance of dried fish for their dogs, to be used on the return
journey. This is a very wise precaution, it being not unfre
quently the case that, through some mishap, they lose, or
have to part with portions of their supply, and, were it not
for these deposits held in reserve, they might be unable to
regain their homes, or, if at all, at the expense of losing many
of their dogs, which they prize very highly.
Though each settlement abounds with these animals, a
large proportion of them are almost good for nothing. On
this account, the finer and more intelligent ones are almost
invaluable. A good lead dog, trained to go to the right or
left by the sound of the voice, if also a good draught animal,
will sometimes bring eighty roubles, about $60. This is very

312 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
nearly a fortune in itself to these poor people, whose wants
are so simple. The price of an ordinary dog is from five to
fifteen roubles, according to the scarcity of the animals. A
species of distemper breaks out every two or three years
among the dogs of these regions, and almost invariably
proves fatal ; sometimes hundreds of them are swept off in a
single week. At such times money can not purchase the sur
vivors. Our route was over an undulating, sparsely-wooded coun
try, going eastward toward the Cowey River, which empties
into Tausk Bay about two hundred and fifty versts farther
to the east. The day was pleasant and tolerably mild, the
thermometer indicating zero, and the journey would have
been very pleasant had it not been for bad traveling. Car
avans of nartas or dog-sleds always travel in the same track,
if possible, packing down each fresh fall of snow upon the old
road, so that, toward the latter part of the winter, they have
a hard bed to travel upon two, and sometimes three feet
above the ground, while upon either side of the narrow
causeway the. snow is so deep and soft that a man will sink
to the waist.
This being the nature of the road we were traversing, we
experienced great inconvenience, particularly since all traces
of the old road had become obliterated by the recent storm,
and our sleds were constantly running off into the deep
snow. Then two or three men would be required to lift
them back upon the track. To avoid an almost constant re
currence of these delays, we found it necessary to keep two
men constantly in advance, on snow-shoes, feeling for the
road with staves, some of the rest of us driving their teams
in the mean while. In the afternoon it began to snow again,
accompanied with strong gusts of wind ; but dark found us
at one of the yourts on the bank of the Cowey River. The
Cowey at this point is about one hundred feet wide, and well
wooded on the banks with larch-trees, none of which exceed
ten inches in diameter, however.
The next morning was yet squally and disagreeable, par
ticularly to the drivers, who had to face it ; but the travel
ing was much better. We continued our course eastward
down the wide and well-wooded valley of the Cowey, some-

ROAD LUNCHES.— THE IMPERIAL ERMINE. 313
times traveling on the river itself, but mostly through the
Woods by more direct routes, to avoid the long and frequent
meanderings of the river. At noon, according to our usual
custom, we stopped at one of the yourts to make tea and
have lunch. These lunches were generally very unceremo
nious and hasty. While tea was being prepared, Vushin, the
chief Cossack, would get a raw, frozen salmon, and, with his
sheath-knife, cut it up into thin shavings, to be eaten with
salt. This, with frozen black bread, chopped into rations
with an axe, at first constituted our meal; but, finding it
very difficult aud disagreeable eating the frozen bread, which
was so hard we could not bite it without first thawing it in
hot tea, we afterward adopted the plan of placing it in the
fire, and, as fast as it thawed to a' sufficient depth, sliced it
off for use. For variety we sometimes ate dried salmon, such
as we fed our dogs with, which, when carefully prepared, was
very palatable.
This clay, while sitting cross-legged upon the platform in
the yourt eating, my attention was attracted by a small
white animal, apparently of the weasel family, that darted
back and forth beneath a pile of fire-wood in one corner of
the hut, but its motions
were so rapid that I could
not catch a good view of
it. I at first thought noth
ing of the animal, but, aft
er it had made its appear
ance several times, I ven
tured to ask Vushin what
it was. Much to my sur
prise, if not somewhat to my disappointment, he informed
me that this miserable-looking little creature, skulking about
among old logs and in deserted huts, was the imperial ermine,
that, from my earliest recollections, I had associated with kings
and thrones. Verily "all is vanity;" and this first glimpse of
the humble source of so much regal splendor had a tendency
to lower at least one notch in my estimation the glory of maj
esty. Every few versts along the route we found dead dogs that
had starved or given out on some previous journey "durino-

TUB EttMINE.

314 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
the winter, and been left on the road to perish. When, how
ever, the sleds are not heavily laden, the driver, rather than
lose an animal that has given out, will carry it on his narta
until it recuperates its strength.
At 6 o'clock P.M. we arrived at another yourt on the bank
ofthe Cowey, but, it being yet some time before dark, and we
were anxious to reach Tausk, we pushed on to the next, which
we reached at 10.30 P.M., though some of the more heavily
laden sleds did not get in until near 12 o'clock.
We had yet upward of one hundred and twenty-five versts
to go before arriving at Tausk, and, in order to accomplish it
the next day, were on the road by 5 o'clock A.M. The day's
journey was without particular interest, the traveling being-
good, but our dogs were too much exhausted to make very
rapid progress. We traveled on the ice of the river most of
the day, arriving at its mouth just before dark. Here we
encountered salt ice once more, the mouth of the river being
completely choked up with broken masses of it which, had
been drifted in by the tides and frozen up for the winter.
Our only route was across these hummocks, in order to
round a rocky promontory that jutted into the bay on the
easterly bank of the river, and we found it a rough road in
deed. Each sled had to be carried through separately, ac
companied by four or five men to lift it over innumerable
jagged ridges or lower it down into the ice chasms that in
tervene, so we worked along, first up and then down, now
capsizing and breaking a sled, or plunging it forward among
the dogs, when a most piteous yelping and howling would
ensue as some poor creature would get jammed. The axe
was brought into frequent use, chopping off jutting frag
ments and clearing a way, and the sound of it, together with
the shouts of the men and the yelping and howling of our
one hundred and fifty dogs, produced a perfect Bedlam. It
was some time after dark before we got them all through,
and even then only at the expense of several broken sleds
and injured dogs, but, as we had only fifteen versts farther
to go, and a good road before us, the sleds were patched up
in some manner, and we reached Tausk about 9.30 P.M.

PICTORIALS AT TAUSK. 315

CHAPTER XXII.
Tausk. — Population. — Tausk Bay. — Peeping. — Frank Leslie's and Harper's
Pictorials. — Government Postilion. — News from Kennan. — Value of Er
mine. — Ermine Traps. — Departure for Dobratown. — A lazy Team and
more lazy Driver. — Knowledge of "American. " — Arman. — Lamut Chiefs.
— Native Livelihood. — Decoration. — Improvidence. — Amusing Idea of
Telegraph. — Dosing the Sick. — Disease. — A Band at Sea. — Armani. —
Conflict between Dogs and Deer. — The Polog. — Seal-oil Lamps. — Jour
ney to Yamsk. — Forced Traveling. — Dogs in Boots. — Ice and Bone Sled-
runners. — Agates. — Tinder. — Mode of making Fire.- — Canine Character
and Peculiarities. — Leader's Sagacity. — Night Journey. — Buried in the
Snow. — Resurrecting. — Misplaced Confidence. — Yamsk. — Industry of set
tled Koraks. —A Poorga. — Along the Coast. — Toumane. — Outrageous Im
pudence. — Ce chas. — Famished Dogs. — Postilion's Mishap. — A starving
Community. — Criminal Negligence. — Annual Famines. — Abundance of
Fish. — Government Aid. — Laziness. — Reliance upon the Lamuts.
Tausk, which is situated near the bay of the same name,
contains about twenty habitations, ranging from quite re
spectable log houses to mere hovels. The population is a
decided mixture of Russians, Yakouts, Cossacks, and Lamuts,'
and it is a hard matter to distinguish the one from the other.
They all speak the Russian language, and have adopted the
Russian religion and customs. _ Tausk Bay had been fre
quently visited by American whalers in earlier days, on
which occasions they used to go ashore and barter for furs
and trinkets of different kinds, so that we found the inhabit
ants quite familiar with American ways, and some of them
even understood many English words and phrases. Never
theless, they exhibited great curiosity upon learning that an
American was in town, and during our stay long rows of
black eyes were continually peering through the cracks in
the partition that separated our own from the other apart
ments of the house. They also displayed a good deal of
fondness for pictures and other decorations. I was not a
little surprised at finding illustrations taken from Harper's
and Frank Leslie's pictorials pasted upon the walls of many
of the houses.

316 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
The same day on which we reached Tausk the government
postilion also arrived, bringing letters with him from Kamt
chatka and Ghijigha, among which was one written by Mr.
Kennan from a small town called Anadyrsk, near the head
of the Anadyr River, far to the northeast. When he wrote
he had just reached that place on his way to the mouth of
the river in search of Macrae and party, who we supposed
had been landed at that point.
In conversation with the starasta, at whose house we stop- '
ped, I was much astonished at the little value placed upon
ermine by these people. These animals bring so small a
price from traders (about six cents each) that few make any
efforts whatever to capture them, and then they trap only a
sufficient number to pay their light church taxes. In this
manner about fifty skins had accumulated on the hands of
the priest, which he was more than willing to dispose of to
me for the triflinsr sum of five roubles.

ERMINE TRAI\

He also showed me the trap with which these animals are
usually caught, which is quite a curiosity in itself, and ex
hibits considerable ingenuity. It consists of a small rectan
gular wooden frame like that of a picture, in which a cross
bar is made to slide up and down in grooves on either side,
something after the manner ofthe blade of a guillotine. A
small strong bow is lashed to the upper part of the frame,
but the arrow, instead of being a loose shaft, is fastened to
the sliding cross-bar in such a manner that, when the bow is
sprung, this bar is pressed quickly and firmly against the low
er end of the frame. The trap is so placed over the entrance
to the ermine's abode that the animal, to get in or out, has to
pass between the sliding-bar and the bottom of the frame,
and, in so doing, presses a fine string stretched across the
aperture, and leading to the trigger. The pressure frees the

DEPARTURE FROM TA USK.—A LAZ Y DRIVER. 317
bowspring, and, before the animal can get through, he is
caught and killed without injury to the skin.
We left Tausk the following morning at 6 A.M. for Ar-
man, or Dobratown (" good town"), as the whalers used to
call it, and, though the distance was only half a day's jour
ney, we took fresh dogs. Traveling was very rugged among
the hummocks and boulders along the shore, and my team
was, I will venture to say, the laziest collection of quadru
peds that ever had the misfortune to be harnessed together.
But this they had acquired through force of habit, owing to
the neglect of their driver, an exact counterpart of Dickens's
fat boy. It required constant care on my part to keep the
fellow from going to sleep and capsizing my pavoshka among
the hummocks, and at length, when we reached a smooth
road, I experienced great relief.
Joe, by "which name the fellow understood me to mean
him, immediately coiled himself up for a comfortable nap on
top of the pavoshka, leaving the dogs to follow the other
sleds, and, as my curiosity was by this time fully aroused, I
resolved to see what it would result in. The dogs, hearing
no sound behind them, began to look back over their shoul
ders, and, seeing the driver asleep, gradually slackened their
pace, and finally stopped altogether, and began to coil them
selves up in the snow for quiet naps also. At this my pa
tience left me, and, seizing the man's " ostle," which lay by
his side, I gave him a hard poke in the side, accompanying
the thrust with an imperfect representation of an Apache
war-whoop. At the sound every dog sprang to his feet in
¦perfect astonishment, but the only effect it had upon the
driver was to cause him to roll his lazy body leisurely around
toward me, disclosing his fat face distorted by a sickly smile.
By great exertion he managed to utter the words "big
noise" in tolerable English, and then slowly began to coil
himself up for another nap. Fearing lest he should go to
sleep again, I tried to get into some kind of conversation with
him. In reply to my question, " Do you understand English ?"
for some moments his face wore a blank expression, and then
he replied "No sabez." Not wishing to give it up, I changed
the form of my question, and said, " You sabez American ?"
to- which he immediately replied, "Me small sabez," and then

318 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
began to tell me the names of different whalers he had seen
in Tausk. As he continually repeated the same names over,
he did not complete the list until we arrived at Arman, about
12.30 o'clock P.M.
This place is also situated on Tausk Bay, or near it, and is
so like the town of Tausk that it would be difficult to distin
guish one from the other. Imagine ten or a dozen tolerable
log houses heaped together in a large dice-box, and then
thrown out and left standing where they fell, without regard
to regularity, and you will have the appearance of one of
these settlements. But, to complete the picture as we found
it, the houses must be half-buried in huge snow-drifts, and the
spaces around them thronging with half-starved dogs, crows,
and magpies. These birds are never molested, and become
so tame that I have seen them sharing the daily meal of the
dogs from the same trough with them.
On his previous visit to this place, Major Abasa had sent
word to some rich neighboring Lamuts for them to meet him
here on his return, as he wished to bargain with them for a
number of deer, to be used in the construction of the line.
Upon our arrival we found them assembled, decked out in
their best attire of reindeer-skins, ornamented with beads and
trinkets of various kinds. One of them, a benevolent-looking
old man, wore suspended to his neck a huge silver medal, pre
sented to him by the Czar for his liberality in supplying some
ofthe settled natives with deer to prevent them from starva
tion during one of their periodical famines.
These people depend mainly upon fish for a livelihood, but
not unfrequently there is the greatest scarcity of them, and
they are unable to secure a supply sufficient to maintain
themselves and dogs during the long winter months. They
are greatly dependent upon their dogs to go to neighboring
towns and tribes in search of food, and, rather than sacrifice
them, will share with them their last fish ; after which they
are mainly dependent upon the generosity of some of the
Lamuts, or upon bark, roots, and berries for the wherewithal
to sustain life. It was for assistance given on one of these
occasions that the old man was rewarded. He valued his
medal " even beyond his life," he said.
These famines occur every three or four years, producing

LAMUTS.— IDEAS OF THE TELEGRAPH. 319
great suffering, and often death ; but the strangest thing of
all is the neglect on the part of the people to profit by past
experience. The moment their sufferings have ended they
forget them altogether, neither do they make any provision
for future emergencies of a like nature. Usually fish are so
abundant that, with little extra exertion, they could lay in a
supply sufficient to last them two or three years ; but no
sooner is their winter supply caught and dried than they
abandon their nets, and give themselves up to feasting and
dancing — satisfied with to-day, and willing to let the morrow
take care of itself. The Lamuts are very similar to the Tun
gusians, having the same appearance, language, and customs,
the only difference I was able to discover being in their
name. Those chiefs we met were quite dignified, and seated them
selves with the greatest gravity to hear the major's proposi
tion. They had plenty of deer, and were perfectly willing to
sell, any number of them, provided they were to be used for
any other purpose, but evidently did not wish to encourage
the building of the telegraph line. Thinking they did not
thoroughly understand the object and nature ofthe line, the
major explained it to them, telling them that it would simply
consist of a line of poles extending through the country, and
having a small wire stretched over the top. They were also
told what advantages would accrue to them in having our
forts and stations in their midst, from which they could pro
cure supplies, cloths, and every thing needed, but nothing
that was said seemed to satisfy them. At length one asked
in what direction the line would go ; but, upon being told,
they became decidedly gloomy and still more reluctant.
We could not imagine why they were so opposed to the
project until one of them, as if struck with a new idea, ask
ed how far apart the poles would be. Upon being answered
their faces all brightened up, and they were perfectly willing
to dispose ofthe deer. They knew the line would cross their
usual routes of travel, but had supposed the poles would be so
close together that they would not be able to pass between
them with their deer. Without farther hesitation, they prom
ised us two hundred deer in the spring, at two and a half
roubles each (about $1.87). It being our intention to push

820 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
on without delay, fresh dogs were immediately ordered for
the journey to Yamsk, about four hundred versts distant.
During our short stay, all the sick and lazy of the place
came to us asking medicine for their different complaints,
knowing we had a small medicine-chest with us. In doc
toring them medical knowledge was not at all essential, as
far as their wishes were concerned, as they were perfect
ly willing to swallow any thing that we would give them,
from arsenic to Dover's powders. But we confined our prac
tice to the latter, to be on the safe side, and I have no doubt
but that the effects were as beneficial as if we had used the
former. There was a great deal of disease among them, probably
originating from intercourse with whalers. No means of
checking its advancement were at hand, and at the time of
our visit a large proportion ofthe inhabitants were hopeless
ly stricken with it. Some of them were merely living mass
es of putrefaction, perfectly sickening to behold. Hemor
rhage of the lungs appeared to be quite common also. Oc
casionally, among the men, we encountered some poor fellow
whose face was all scarred and features distorted by the
teeth and claws of a bear With which he had struggled, and
at rare intervals we saw traces of smallpox.
By cutting across an arm of Tausk Bay from Arman we
might shorten our journey considerably, but at this late sea
son the ice was very insecure, and the experiment would
have been hazardous at the least. Only three years before,
a party of natives, while crossing the ice at this same point,
suddenly discovered that they were drifting seaward on a
large sheet of ice that had become detached from shore. But
fortune favored them, and, after four days' sailing, they
brought up on shore near Okhotsk. Since this, the ispravnik
had forbidden any of his people attempting it. From the
town we ascended the bed of the Armani River, having a
well-beaten track, which enabled us to make very good prog
ress with our fresh dogs.
Only a few versts from the settlement we met a Lamut
riding one deer and leading another, who, upon seeing our
train coming, kept close to the river bank, hoping our dogs
would not discover him. The sharp sight and keen scent of

FIGHT BETWEEN DOGS AND DEER. 321
the animals soon detected his presence, however, and in a mo
ment their wolfish instinct was thoroughly aroused. Perfect
ly frantic and wild with excitement, the whole train, contain
ing about two hundred dogs, dashed fiercely toward the deer,
at the same time uttering loud bays and yelps, completely
drowning the shouts of their drivers. It was impossible to
restrain them, and most of the drivers turned their heavy
sleds bottom up to check their speed; but, in spite of their ex
ertions, three of the teams caught up with the hindmost deer
• just as he was about to ascend the river bank, and then en
sued a scene of the wildest excitement. Ten or twelve dogs
immediately fastened upon the poor animal and dragged it
to the snow, but in an instant the drivers were in their midst,
dealing quick blows right and left with their heavy ostles.
The dogs obstinately persisted in the attack, and the deer,
up to this time overcome with fear, having recovered its feet,
began to recover its self-possession, and then, rage succeed
ing fright, it dashed boldly into the very thickest of its ene
mies, springing into the air and striking viciously with all
four feet at the same instant. At length the dogs were driv
en back by the natives. The deer, then missing its compan
ion, which had disappeared among the trees on shore, rushed
madly to the middle of the stream, when the greater part of
the dogs, restrained by their traces, were howling and spring
ing into the air to free themselves. In a moment it was again
dragged down, and, before the dogs could be again driven
back, was so badly injured that it could not live.
We all very much regretted the occurrence, fully sympa
thizing with the poor deer for its sufferings, and with the
Lamut for his loss ; but a liberal compensation in money re
stored the latter to feelings of content, and we renewed our
journey, traveling, without farther incident, until dark, when
we camped in the woods, there being no yourt within a couple
of versts. We disposed of ourselves d la Korak for the
night, camping in a small Korak polog the major had
brought with him from Ghijigha.
The polog is a small square inclosure, made of heavy deer
skins, tanned with the hair on, and made to be suspended by
the four upper corners inside of the Korak yourts. It is
about six feet square and four feet in height, being air-tight
X

322 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
each one serving as a separate apartment for the different
families residing in the same yourt. Upon retiring, the
family carries into its polog a small lamp, consisting simply
of a shallow wooden basin filled with seal oil, upon which
a small bunch of burning moss floats. This not only fur
nishes light, but furnishes heat to the close, confined atmos
phere inside, and soon makes it almost insufferably warm.
We pitched the polog and tried the lamp ; but, shortly after
retiring, the heat and stench arising from the burning oil
became insupportable, and we were glad to throw up the
skin curtain, and breathe the pure cold atmosphere from the
outside. The journey to Yamsk was without particular interest, the
country being undulating, thickly wooded with larch and
spruce, and traversed by numerous small streams. We trav
eled late and early, camping usually in yourts, and stop
ping barely long enough to give our dogs and drivers time
to rest before renewing our journey. With us it made no
perceivable difference, as our comfortable pavoshkas enabled
us to sleep on the road ; and, as we intended to procure fresh
drivers and dogs at Yamsk, we knew our present ones could
endure a little deprivation of sleep for three or four days.
But the heavy sleds and forced journeys were very trying
upon some of the dogs. The surface of the snow, from par
tial thawing at noon-day, and after freezing, became rough,
and, through constant travel, the bottoms of our dogs' feet
became raw and lacerated. The drivers, however, were pro
vided, in case of such an emergency, with small fur socks,
that they put on the dogs' feet as a protection, and it was
not an uncommon thing to see whole teams of these animals
traveling along clad in boots.
At this season of the year the roughness of the snow is
very destructive to the birch runners of the sleds also. In
cold weather, to protect them, as well as to ease the running
of the sled, every two or three hours during the day the
driver turns his narta over, and, with a piece of deerskin sat
urated with water, moistens the shoes, and in a few moments
they are incased in a smooth icy covering. If it is difficult
to procure water on the way, they carry a bottle of it be
neath their furs, next the body, to prevent its freezing.

CHARACTERISTICS OF DOGS. 323
These ice-shoes soon wear off in spring, however, and are
consequently of little protection ; but if the journey prom
ises to be particularly rough, they shoe their runners with
strips of bone hewn from the ribs of whales.
We found a number of agates on the gravelly beds of sev
eral streams, where they had become exposed by the snow
thawing. These the natives use as flints in striking fire.
Their punk or tinder is manufactured from the fungi grow
ing on the birch-tree by boiling it in lye, though some of
them create fire by friction, rubbing two pieces of wood to
gether. Sulphur is found in some portions of the country,
more particularly in Northern Kamtchatka, the natives say.
They all know the value of it, and each one wears suspended
to his tinder-bag a small bone or wooden basin of it, in which
to place the punk when lit, and, by blowing, create a blaze
with which to start their fires.
While making these long journeys I had abundant oppor
tunities for studying canine peculiarities and characteristics,
and on more than one occasion found myself watching their
manoeuvres not only with astonishment, but admiration.
Their characters are as diversified as those of human beings,
and I have even thought, many times, that I detected facial
resemblances to persons I had seen at some time or another.
They are possessed of great intelligence and acuteness, fre
quently outwitting their masters. Some are reserved and
dignified, fully cognizant of the obligations that devolve
upon them, and enter into their duties with conscientious
zeal. These are placed at the head of the train, to set a
good example to the young rattle-brains of good, honest in
tentions that follow them, but who, not being perfectly sound
in judgment, require some wise Mentor to direct them. Be
hind these come the knaves — cunning, sharp-nosed fellows,
with one eye always over the shoulder, watching the driver,
pulling desperately when he is watching, and slackening up
their traces as soon as his attention is diverted ; but they
are often caught in their tricks, and have become so accus
tomed to having the ostle thrown among them, that, the mo
ment the driver raises his staff, they set up a piteous yelling,
as if being killed, and rush underneath the bellies of the good
dogs for protection. It is their delight to pick fights with

324 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
other teams passing by, and, as soon as the engagement be
comes general, to withdraw from the contest and look on;
or at night, while being fed, to swallow their fish at one
gulp, and then take the supper away from a weak neighbor.
They are always ready for a spree, jumping for every grouse
that flies up, and trying to induce their companions to give
chase, but only work when there is no other alternative. At
the end of the train, where the driver can easily poke them
up, are those who are both lazy and stupid. They seem to
think it their duty, while going down hill, always to hold
back, and let the other dogs drag the sled over them and
mash them into the snow. They are always glad when night
comes, take advantage of short halts during the day to catch
" cat-naps," and in the morning, before starting, have to be
jerked out of their snow beds and kicked half a dozen times
before awaking.
But the finest of them all, though last mentioned, are the
leaders. Intelligent, active, sensible, and discreet, they are
guided altogether by the voice, and by their actions serve
as a check on the rest of the team. I remember on one oc
casion, while traveling along, a fox started up near the trail,
and dashed off in full view of the team. All the dogs be
came frantic except the leader, and started off in pursuit,
dragging the leader along backward with them. He worked
against them as hard as he could, but their united strength
was too much for him. At this juncture he suddenly pricked
up his ears, and, looking in the opposite direction, gave sev
eral sharp, quick yelps, and made a bound as if in pursuit of
other game. At this the others all seconded him, and he led
them in a sharp race until we had recovered the trail, when
he quietly turned into it, and we proceeded without farther
difficulty. The third night after leaving Arman we traveled all night
longj having a ready road, and early the next morning reached
a yourt just as a heavy poorga overtook us. But the yourt
was in a very dilapidated condition, and filled to the roof
with snow, so that we had once more to resort to our polog.
A heavy forest of larch sheltered us from the wind, but the
falling snow came in such abundance as to obscure the near
est objects. Upon awaking after six hours' sleep, we found

BURIED LY THE SNOW. 325
every thing buried from sight, nothing but the tops of our
sleds being visible. During that time, by sudden changes,
the temperature had become warmer, and rain had succeeded
snow, moistening the surface of that freshly fallen, and after
ward it had again become cold enough to freeze, forming
quite a stout crust.
Soon after stopping, our men and dogs, overcome with fa
tigue, had thrown themselves down to sleep ; but, upon crawl
ing from our pologj nothing was to be seen of them except
the low, grave-like heaps that indicated their resting-places.
Two or three shouts caused a crackling ofthe crust, and one
by one their fur-clad heads broke through the surface, like so
many corpses arising from their graves. The sight was very
ridiculous to us, but might possibly have caused a little alarm
to persons not expecting it. Shouts, however, did not suffice
to resurrect the dogs, whether owing to the crust or content
with existing circumstances, I do not know. In sleeping they
curl themselves up into so small a space that not even hil
locks indicated their whereabouts, and to find them we had
to go to the sleds, and, catching hold of the long seal-thong
to which they were attached, trace it up until an animal was
found, when, by a sudden jerk, the crust cracked, and out
popped a dog, perfectly bewildered with sleep and astonish
ment. Two or three sound kicks from the driver, followed
by a yawn and good stretch, immediately restores him, and
he watches the operation repeated with each of his fellows
with evident satisfaction. In some cases three or four jerks
were required to extricate them, the crust was so strong.
Vushin, the Cossack, told me that, on one occasion, while
traveling, he had found it necessary to break the crust with
a hatchet before he could extricate his dogs. It would ap
pear that men or animals buried in this manner would expe
rience a difficulty in breathing, but it is not the case, as snow
freshly fallen lies so loosely as to contain all the air that is
essential. These people are generally very rough, and sometimes
cruel in the treatment of their dogs, but it is the only way
to keep them in subjection. Affection is a rare trait among
the animals, and they have little appreciation of kindness.
One of the dogs of my team, a fine, large fellow, was blinded

326 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
in one eye, and the day before, while taking lunch on the
road, I perceived that the poor fellow got none of the spare
morsels thrown to him, not being able to see them. This
excited my sympathy, and, being a thorough believer in the
humane treatment of animals, I attempted to feed him with
a piece of dried fish from my hand ; but with one gulp he
took both hand and fish, leaving a couple of dents in the for
mer as a token of his gratitude. He had always been taught
to catch his food " on the wing," and no doubt expected to
do the same on this occasion. The males, owing to their
willful, savage natures, have to undergo an alteration to
adapt them to the road. Some of the teams it is very dan
gerous for a stranger to approach.
On the 24th of March we arrived at the settlement of
Yamsk, a small town containing about one hundred and fifty
inhabitants, situated on Yamsk Bay. The inhabitants were
nearly all Koraks (a tribe I had not before met), and had
adopted the Russian language and customs, so that I could
discover nothing in them different from the other semi-civil
ized natives along the coast. This place had also been visit
ed frequently by whalers, from whom the natives had pro
cured bright-colored paint, and decorated the interior of their
houses in gorgeous style. The town, I think, excels the oth
ers in the construction and neatness of its houses, and the in
habitants appeared to be industrious and prosperous. As a
token of their industry, we found that they had cut a large
number of telegraph-poles since the major's first visit, to be
used in the construction of the line.
It was our intention to have started on the next morning,
but, upon awaking, we found the snow driving in clouds be
fore a hurricane of wind, making it very difficult to go from
one house to another. To have started in such a poorga
would have been the height of folly, as we could not have
proceeded a verst without losing our way, so we were con
strained to delay our departure until the morning ofthe 26th.
A few versts from town we encountered quite a large tun
dra, across which extended a long line of tripods, formed of
light poles, as guides in poorgas ; but after this our way was
generally through wooded country, sometimes traveling near
the coast, where we occasionally encountered some kind of a

CE CHAS.—A STARVING COMMUNITY. 327
habitation, and then ascending a stream to a suitable point
from which to cross a mountain range, and so on, each day
being a repetition of the former. The next place at which
we stopped was Toumane, one hundred and fifty versts from
Yamsk direct, but the route we had to pursue made it much
farther. On the road to this place nothing of interest tran
spired, unless I may except an incident which, though slight
in itself, serves to show the outrageous audacity of some of
these drivers. We had made a very early start in the morn
ing, and, being somewhat exhausted from a late journey the
night before, I raised the boot of my pavoshka, and was soon
fast asleep. I don't know how long I had been in that con
dition when I was awakened by a heavy thump, and, upon
opening my eyes, found my sled capsized. Expecting every
moment that my driver would right it, I lay still ; but, hear
ing no sounds outside indicative of such an intention, I shout
ed to Egor, the driver, in a slightly impatient mood, receiving
in reply the invariable answer "Ce chas." "Ce chas" means,
literally, "this hour," but is used by these people in the sense
of "right away," or "immediately." I swallowed my indig
nation for a minute or two longer, poised in the mean while
on my head and right shoulder, the rest of my body raised
at an angle of forty-five degrees ; but at the end of that time,
thinking Egor meant "ce chas" in its literal sense, with great
difficulty I partly extricated myself, and, peeping out, saw the
fellow leaning against a large ice hummock, having a com
fortable smoke with a companion driver. Had it been a load
of dried salmon capsized before him, he could not have ap
peared more indifferent. It is easier to understand than to
express my feelings on the occasion.
As we drove up to the small collection of inferior log houses
that compose Toumane, a troop of half-famished dogs came
dashing down toward us as fast as their feeble legs could
carry them, and, scenting the dried fish on our sleds, rushed
in the midst of our dogs to procure it. One poor fellow ran
between my legs, and, seizing a fish that jutted from beneath
the load, tried to pull it out. Not knowing the condition of
the animal, I gave him a kick to drive him off, but, without
loosening his hold, he gave a feeble yelp, and hung to the
fish with still greater desperation. Our dogs immediately

328 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
attacked these, and bit them severely, but the poor fellows
were so famished, that, with piteous yelps, they submitted
without resistance, striving in the mean while to reach the
fish. A number of dead dogs, frozen stiff, were scattered about
on the snow, at one of which, as we approached, two of the
famished creatures were tearing with their teeth, trying to
appease their hunger. It was a most pitiable sight, and one
which affected all our party, particularly as our supply of
dog-food was too limited to be shared with them. One of
the natives came out, and, in answer to our inquiries about
the dogs, said that the government postilion, in coming from
Ghijigha, had been overtaken by a severe poorga just beyond
the Villiga Mountains, and had been forced to1 sojourn in one
of the yourts for ten days, not being able to cross the range.
While stopping there, his dogs had consumed nearly all their
food, and after the storm had subsided, upon reaching Tou
mane, not being able to procure a fresh supply of fish, he was
obliged to abandon forty of these animals to perish from starv
ation. The poor creatures, had been fed nothing for sixteen
days. Upon entering one ofthe houses,- a scene of squalid misery
presented itself to us which was equally as pitiable as the one
outside. Two grown men of haggard appearance and indo
lent manner guided us inside, where were two or three women
and several little children wasted to mere shadows from starv
ation. They had been subsisting for several days on bark and
roots, having exhausted their winter stores of fish, and were
now struggling to eke out a miserable existence until spring,
when they would forget their winter's sufferings, and gorge
themselves with the produce of their rivers, wholly unmind
ful ofthe morrow. The condition ofthe women and children
was lamentable, all owing to the indolence of the men, and,
after hearing their story, had it been in my power, I could
have added to the misery of the latter tenfold without the
slightest conscientious scruples.
At Toumane famines occur annually, and the misery of one
winter is only a repetition of that of the preceding one. Yet
I was told no other point on the coast afforded a richer har
vest of the finest fish merely for the effort of capturing them.

KORAK IMPROVIDENCE. 329
Often two weeks of industrious labor will more than provide
for a winter's consumption, and a few days' extra labor each
year would enable the inhabitants to accumulate a supply
that would for all time place them beyond suffering ; but,
with all these advantages, no people suffer more than they.
Forgetful of the past, neglectful of the present, and unmind
ful of the future seems to be their motto.
They are furnished by government with twine with which
to manufacture nets and seines, but, instead of making these
and doing their own fishing, they give the twine to Lamutkas
on condition that the latter will furnish them with fish suffi
cient for the long winter. Then, as soon as winter sets in,
they give themselves up to feasting, consuming all their sup
plies during the first few months, and depending upon the
generosity of some of the interior tribes for a living during
the latter portion. But they often fail in their calculations,
as was the case when we found them.

330 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

CHAPTER XXIII.
Departure from Toumane. — Villiga Mountains. — Piety.— A wise Swallow.
— Passing the Ridge. — Villiga River. — A night Journey. — Lost. — A Yourt
full of Snow. — Surprising Endurance of Dogs. — Tavatoma River. — Hot
Springs. — Niakhana. — News from Kennan. — His Exploration of the An
adyr. — Party rescued. — Uneasiness for Macrae and Arnold. — Ghijigha
Gulf and River. — Ghijigha. — Journey ended. — District Head-quarters. —
Early History. — Affanassa Shestakova. — Inhabitants. — Occupations and
Amusements. — Fur Trade. — Easter Preparations. — Swinging.— Feasting
and Fasting. — Easter Services. — Midnight Surprise. — Kennan, Macrae,
and Arnold. — Macrae's Party and Experiences. — Late Arrival. — Building
Cabin. — Fuel. — Winter. — Unenviable Position. — Trying Uncertainty. —
Okakrae. — Tchuctchus. — Bargaining by Signs. — Macrae and Robinson's
Adventure. — Life and Death. — Its Consequences. — Arrival of Okakrae. —
Wewoki. — Departure of Macrae and Arnold. — Annoying Slowness. — Ar-
nora River. — Overbearing Treatment. — Tchuctchu Conclave. — Deer-chief.
— Threatened Abandonment. — Questionable Diet. — At Anadyrsk. — Sur
prise. — Kennan's Adventures and Travels. — Dodd. — Explorations com
pleted. — Approaching Spring. — Appointments. — Preparations to depart
again. — Our Sleds.
It being late when we reached Toumane, we stopped there
for the night, and early the next morning, after leaving all
the provision we could possibly dispense with for the starv
ing inhabitants, we renewed our journey. The Villiga Moun
tains, near which the postilion met with his misfortune, is a
high spur, extending down to the sea from the main continu
ation of the Juggur range, which latter follows the bend of,
the coast, and finally vanishes in low hills in the tundras far
to the northeast of our present position. This Villiga ridge
is always approached with dread by travelers, not so much
on account of its inaccessibility and rugged sides, as for the
strong winds that sweep through its gorges almost without
cessation. There are three routes which travelers pursue to
pass it. The first is to work along the base ofthe cliffs where
the ridge terminates abruptly on the coast ; but this is not
always possible on account of the nature of the salt ice upon
which a portion of the journey is made. The second, and
best in fair weather, is a direct route over the ridge ; but,

DEPARTURE FROM TOUMANE.— A PIOUS SWALLOW. 331
owing to its rugged projections and steep sides, this route is
very dangerous, except on days when the weather is .very
auspicious. The third is the safest but longest of the three,
it being necessary to make a detour inland, crossing the ridge
about forty miles from the coast.
The last route we determined to pursue, not only on ac
count of its feasibility, but to select a route for our proposed
telegraph line, as neither of the others would be suitable for
the purpose, and it would be necessary to examine the coun
try farther inland. With this aim in view, on leaving Tou
mane we struck inland, traveling over a rolling and well-
wooded country, and camping in yourts along the route,
though our stoppages were very short, generally of not more
than five hours' duration.
In all these yourts we found suspended or tacked to the
wall small crucifixes, before which our drivers invariably
crossed themselves upon entering. In one of them, directly
beneath a small wooden cross, a swallow had built its nest
the previous summer, cementing it against the smooth logs.
The hut afforded so many corners and niches better adapted
for nest-building, that the bird's choice in selecting the spot
at the foot of the cross for rearing its young seemed to be
the result of wisdom and forethought, and in this light our
drivers looked upon it. To test their belief, I made pretense
to tear the nest down, when they raised their hands in horror
at the idea of my being so sacrilegious, and I hardly think I
could have done it without experiencing a slight degree of
compunction. The second day after leaving Toumane, being favored with
beautiful weather, we effected the passage ofthe ridge without
difficulty, but, owing to the absence of a trail, were obliged
to break one for our dogs with snow-shoes. The country
was well wooded, and eminently adapted for telegraphic pur
poses in every respect. On the eastern side we struck the
head of one of the branches of the Villiga River, which we
descended nearly to the coast, arriving at the yourt where
the postilion was delayed about 5 P.M. Having no confi
dence in a long duration of fair weather, we desired to get
out ofthe locality as soon as possible, and determined to push
on without stopping. Our course was parallel to the coast,

332 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
varying from three ' to five versts from the beach, and led
over a broad extent of barren, rolling tundra, gradually ris
ing as it receded from the coast, and terminating in a low
ridge a few versts farther inland. When darkness overtook
us, there was no wood convenient for camp purposes, so we
concluded to push on through the dark to the next yourt.
With night a light cloud settled over the earth, obscuring
the stars from our view, and casting an uncertain shade over
the snowy waste, so that we could not detect the point at
which the snow ended and the heavens commenced. Our
sleds appeared to be gliding through a heavy fog-bank.
We could no longer perceive the rise and fall of the tun
dra for more than a few rods in any direction, every thing,
sky and snow, being of the same uncertain ashy hue, and,
after wandering about a few hours, our guides declared them
selves lost. Taking an easterly course by the compass, we
decided to follow it until we should find wood enough to
boil some tea, and then camp for the night. Hours rolled
by, at the end of which, upon making a sudden rise, a quarter
of a mile ahead we could see a long line of dark trees, the
first objects that had met our gaze since night had set in.
Our guides immediately recognized their whereabouts, and
half an hour afterward, at 3.30 o'clock in the morning, we
found ourselves before the yourt.
But here another obstacle presented itself: the hut was
nearly filled with snow. Our drivers at once set lustily at
work with their snow-shoes shoveling it out, and in another
half hour we were drowning our night's misery in brimming
cups of delicious tea. We were all too exhausted to wait
for supper before retiring, and even many of our dogs, though
they had eaten nothing since the previous night, immediate
ly coiled themselves up in the snow to sleep before they had
received their daily allowance of dried fish.
The endurance of these little animals is perfectly remark
able. Two of the teams of our train had accompanied the
major from Ghijigha to Okhotsk, a distance of twelve hun
dred miles, and, after only three weeks' rest, had made the
return journey with us, drawing heavily-loaded sleds, and the
greater part of the way leading the train. The dogs for our
other sleds had been changed no less than four times, but

HOT SPRINGS.— COMRADES RESCUED. 333
these two teams, in spite of long and forced journeys, held
their own bravely. At the expiration of three or four days
more they will have traveled two thousand four hundred
miles, the last twelve hundred in the short space of nineteen
or twenty days.
The next morning we pushed on to the Tavatoma River,
where was another yourt filled with snow, but, there being
indications of a poorga, and our dogs not having yet recov
ered from the journey ofthe previous day, we decided to stop
over to the following morning. On this stream, a short dis
tance above the yourt, are two or three hot sulphur springs,
near which an old, dilapidated building stands, but, owing to
long neglect, it was fast falling to pieces. Though the tem
perature ofthe air was —15° Fahrenheit during the day, that
ofthe springs where it bubbled from the earth was +130°
Fahrenheit. The water did not retain its heat long, however,
after coming to the surface; the stream flowing from the
spring was frozen up two hundred yards below its source.
By making an early start the next day, April 1 st, we arrived
at Niakhana, a very small settlement only one hundred versts
from Ghijigha, our destination. Our route was over a rolling
tundra nearly the whole distance.
On the morning of the 2d of April we pushed on with the
fresh dogs, expecting to reach Ghijigha by night. About
noon we met a train of sleds coming from that place, and
from one of the natives received a package of letters from
Kennan, written from Anadyrsk, the same town from which
he had written before. He wrote that, upon receiving in
direct information through the Tchuctchus, the tribe inhab
iting that section, that a party, consisting of five men, had
been landed near the mouth ofthe Anadyr River, he procured
a number of sleds, and immediately started in search of them.
After fifteen days of hard travel, at a very low temperature,
he reached the point where he expected to find the party
long after midnight, but no signs of a house were to be seen.
Weary, frozen, and discouraged, he was about to give up
the search, when the driver of one of his sleds, in passing
over a huge snow-drift, discovered a stove-pipe jutting from
it. This was the only indication of the whereabouts of the
party they could find. Mr. Macrae had been left there with

334 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
Messrs. Arnold, Robinson, Smith, and Harder, but, upon en
tering the habitation, the three last-named gentlemen only
were found, Messrs. Macrae and Arnold having started more
than a month previously with some Tchuctchus for the town
of Anadyrsk, as they supposed, expecting to reach that place
in ten days, and return for the remaining three. Since that
Kennan had. returned to Anadyrsk, carrying with him the
three gentlemen ; but, up to the time of writing, no news had
been received from or of Macrae and Arnold, and he began
to entertain fears for their safety. Not knowing in what di
rection to go in search of them, he was unable to take any
measures to assist the party, should they be in need or in
danger. The Tchuctchus are considered the most wariike of
all the tribes of Eastern Siberia. This journey of Messrs.
Kennan and Dodd (the latter gentleman having joined the
party in Petropaulovski) was the first ever made by any body
in winter to the mouth of the Anadyr, though it had, on one
occasion, been attempted by a Russian gentleman (Mr. Phil-
lepaeos), but he did not complete his journey on account of
the reported barbarity ofthe Tchuctchus near the coast.
Kennan's letter was most welcome, though it left us in
great suspense and anxiety for the safety of Macrae and Ar
nold. About 2 o'clock P.M. we came to two or three huts, situ
ated on the brow of a cliff overhanging the sea. Here we
left the tundra, and for several miles traveled along the shore
ice of Ghijigha Gulf, following it until we arrived at the
mouth of the Ghijigha River. Two hours more brought us
in sight of quite a settlement, situated on a high bank on the
east side of the river. The houses were placed facing the
river, and extending along the bank for some distance. In
the midst of them stood the log church, faced with a tower,
and surmounted with a dome. At last our journey was com
pleted, and I experienced no regret whatever in dismounting
from my pavoshka to once more have a taste of indoor life.
We had accomplished the twelve hundred miles in nineteen,
days, with dogs, inclusive of stoppages. A like distance,
while riding reindeer, had occupied us four and a half months.
Ghijigha is situated upon the verge of a tundra which ex
tends from the river far back beyond the reach of mortal vis-

GHIJIGHA.

337

ion, and is fully accessible to blasts from every direction, there
being not a tree, shrub, or hill within miles to shelter it. Ow
ing to this, we found the weather-side of every house com
pletely buried from sight by huge snow-drifts, through which
deep passage-ways had been cut leading to the doors or win
dows. There was no scarcity of snow on any side of the
houses, however, since varying winds and circling currents
of air, whipping around the corners of the buildings and
through the open spaces, had distributed it with a bountiful
hand every where. But this, though giving the town a frigid,
desolate appearance, was not without its benefits, since the
buildings were greatly protected from cold and wind by the
masses, and were rendered much more comfortable than they
would otherwise have been. The town contained about five
hundred inhabitants, mostly Cossacks and half-breeds. There
were about fifty ofthe former, together with their sub-officers,
an ispravnik, a doctor, and two or three priests.

L1GUT-11UDBK AT OIIIJlfcUiA.

Ghijigha is a place of considerable importance, being the
seat of government of the district comprising that large por
tion of Siberia lying to the north and east. It is also the
head-quarters of all the semi-Russian fur-traders, who annu
ally make tours to all sections of the adjoining country for
the purpose of trading with the natives. Being upon the
only direct route by land from Southern Kamtchatka to the
Siberian cities, it had the advantage of an annual mail, which
starts from Petropaulovski, with a postilion, early in the win-
Y

338 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
ter, reaching Yakoutsk in the spring. It was one of the ear
liest Russian settlements on the Okhotsk Sea, there being a
stockade fort here as early as the year 1728, when an expe
dition consisting of one hundred and fifty men, comprising
Cossacks and Tungusians, under the command of a young
officer named Affanassa Shestakova, was sent against the
Koraks, a neighboring tribe. But they met with a disas
trous defeat after proceeding about two hundred versts ; a
large number of Koraks surprised them during the night,
and slew Shestakova, together with more than half his force.
In spite of its isolated location; the town, together with its
inhabitants, possessed an air of superior civilization over the
other places and people I had seen on the Okhotsk Sea. The
buildings were well constructed and commodious, one or two
of them being carpeted and papered, and a number of new
ones were in course of erection, the necessary logs having
been rafted for about twenty miles down the Ghijigha River.
The people are intelligent and industrious. The men gener
ally devote a large portion ofthe winter to making journeys
with the fur merchants, carrying their stock for barter, and
returning with "the furs obtained. The women employ their
time in tanning skins and manufacturing different articles of
wearing apparel, some of which they decorate with beautiful
patterns embroidered in different-colored silk and worsted,
which they obtain from the traders. They are all extremely
fond of pleasure, and " vechourkas," or dances, are of almost
nightly occurrence.
This portion of Siberia, owing to the vast extent of tundra,
or barren land, is not as productive of furs as many other por
tions, and even those skins that are found here are purchased
at very high rates, as the natives, through long experience,
have become pretty well acquainted with the values of the
different articles. Kamtchatka, and some ofthe narrow belts
of woodland bordering streams on the northern tundra, sup
ply the sable and otter market. Beaver are procured from
the Tchuctchus, who in turn get them from the natives on
the east side of Behring's Strait, giving in return reindeer
pelts. Foxes of several varieties, and squirrels, are most
abundant, particularly the former, as they are found in all lo
calities. The accumulation of each winter's trade is immedi-

EASTER AT GHIJIGHA. 339
ately forwarded, by the way of Okhotsk, to Yakoutsk, from
which point it is distributed among the markets of Europe
and China, according to the demand for the different varie
ties. China always secures a large share, and pays very lib
eral prices.
At the time of our arrival the people were making busy
preparations for the approaching Easter, which comes twelve
days later than ours, owing to the difference in reckoning
time. They had been undergoing a kind of fasting during
Lent, and were all looking forward eagerly to the time when
they could eat to their stomach's content without suffering
conscientious pangs. But, owing to the scarcity and limited
variety of food to be obtained, the priests are not severe with
them, except during the last twenty-four hours, when they are
not allowed to take a mouthful of any kind of food. Fresh
paintings had been received from St. Petersburg with which
to decorate the church for the occasion. The whole building
was undergoing a thorough scouring at the hands of troops
of barefobted women, who worked perfectly regardless of the
temperature. Though not very cold, the atmosphere was suf
ficiently stinging to remind one that winter had not altogeth
er loosened its hold.
Swinging is the favorite amusement of all classes at this
season, and, strung along the river bank, several large swings
had been erected, each capable of accommodating a dozen
persons. They were propelled by the Cossacks in their gray
uniforms, and the natives, all singing their melodious Russian
airs the mean while. These people are all natural musicians.
They have great love for music, and the majority of them,
both men and women, have quite fine voices.
The night before Easter, up to the hour of 12, was devoted
to feasting, in preparation for the coming fast ; but, as soon
as that hour arrived, all jaws stopped as if spellbound, and
the inhabitants immediately assumed lugubrious, half-starved
expressions of countenance, and wdthout doubt many of them
thought themselves fearfully hungry, though they had eaten
only half an hour before.
Services were held during the day, and also at night, con
tinuing until midnight, and were very interesting ; but I did
not await their termination, as it is customary, as soon as the

340 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
gun peals forth the Resurrection, for each individual to salute
every other one present with three kisses, a proceeding I am
not particularly partial to, where all ages, sizes, and sexes are
concerned. When the services were ended, a general stam
pede followed, each one hastening his steps homeward, where
a feast awaited him.
My quarters were in a large, comfortable log house, partly
occupied by the family of a fur-trader. As I lay upon my
bed, the last sounds that reached my ears before falling
asleep were the crunching of viands, and the busy rattling
of knives and forks. These sounds had hardly ceased to have
an impression on my thickening memory when I was awak
ened by having the door of my room thrown open, and found
myself confronted by three figures, heavily clad in furs, and
their beards and hoods incrusted with frost. By their voices
I recognized Kennan and Macrae ; but Arnold, who was just
recovering from a severe attack of sickness, to which he had
been subjected while on the road, was unrecognizable. A
few days after Kennan had written his last letter, these gen
tlemen arrived at Anadyrsk, having been sixty-four days
making the journey from their hut at the mouth ofthe Ana
dyr. Immediately upon their arrival at Anadyrsk the three
had started for Ghijigha, making the journey in about fifteen
days. The following account of the experiences of Macrae and
party I insert very nearly as it was given me by those gen
tlemen :
The party was landed late the previous fall at the mouth
ofthe river — so late, in fact, that they barely had time to land
their stores and erect their quarters before winter set in.
They were put ashore as high up the river as the lateness of
the season would permit, in order to shorten their winter
journey as much as possible. The river afforded no timber
whatever with which to construct shelter, except a few pieces
of drift-wood, and only a few boards could be obtained from
the ship, so that at the outset they found themselves con
fronted by serious obstacles. At length they were obliged
to dig a pit in the ground, about five feet deep, and nine by
eighteen feet in dimension, over which they constructed a
frame-work with drift-logs. The neighboring tundra afford-

AN EPISODE:— MA CRAE'S EXPERIENCES. 341
ed an abundance of trailing pine, the boughs of which they
interwove among the drift-logs in such a manner as to close
up the sides. Outside of these they made an embankment
of sod and dirt, rendering the sides impervious to cold, and
by making use ofthe few boards they had procured from the
ship as roofing, they found themselves tolerably provided
with shelter. A good cooking-stove, with an abundant sup
ply of provision, promised them warmth and food, but for
fuel they had to depend upon the pine brush and a few drift-
logs they towed from different points on the river. A good
whale-boat was also added to their outfit, with which to
prosecute their explorations on the river during the coming
spring, should they fail in their winter programme.
The hut completed, all hands employed themselves lustily
in laying in their winter supply of fuel, which they dragged
to the sand-spit upon which they had built their hut, using
a large Newfoundland dog, left with the party, as motive
power. They also took the precaution of constructing a long
tunnel- way of sod, as farther protection, leading to the door
of the hut, after the manner of the Greenland Esquimaux.
Their preparations were barely completed when winter was
ushered in by a violent wind, accompanied with a heavy fall
of snow. •
By degrees they found themselves sealed in by icy barriers,
precluding all possibility of escape, and leaving them but
one alternative, that of facing the uncertain winter ahead,
with whatever fortunes or misfortunes it might have in store
for them. Their position was an unenviable one. Five men
left on a foreign, unknown shore, to face an arctic winter for
the first time, and surrounded by a tribe reputed to be war
like and barbarous, of whose language and customs they
were totally ignorant, and possessed of no means of making
themselves understood. They knew that there had once
been a small Russian settlement near the head of the Ana
dyr, but whether such a place still existed or not they had no
means of ascertaining. Their instructions were to proceed
to the head ofthe river, and then, if possible, work their way
down to the Okhotsk Sea, there to meet our parties; but,
being left without means of winter transportation, their only
alternative was to await the coming ofthe Tchuctchus (the

342 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
wandering natives of the country), and then make the best
arrangements possible. But, in the mean while, they were in
a state of trying uncertainty, hoping to find the Tchuctchus
overrated in the accounts of their barbarity, and fearing lest
these accounts should all prove too true. They were, how
ever, well armed with revolvers and breech-loading carbines,
as were all our parties.
At length a. small band of Tchuctchus, led by a native
called Okakrae, arrived on a visit to their hut. These they
found very peaceably disposed, and friendly relations were
soon established. The natives lived about twenty-five miles
distant, down the bay, and upon being made to understand,
through innumerable gestures, that the party wished to as
cend the river, their chief intimated to them, through signs,
that after so many moons he would call and take them up
with deer. Macrae tried to purchase deer and sleds to trans
port his party, but the natives would not sell any of these
animals alive, having some superstitious scruples about doing
so, though they supplied the party with all the fresh meat
they could desire. After a while large numbers of Tchuc
tchus arrived, driving their herds of deer to the mountain
ous and wooded districts farther south, to escape the winter
storms that prevail on the northern tundra. They all ap
peared friendly, and, with the exception of the loss of an axe,
spade, and a few other small articles that were missing after
their departure, no inconvenience was experienced from their
presence. Once, during the early winter, Macrae and Robin
son started out in search of Okakrae's settlement on foot, to
procure deer. They left the hut early in the morning, taking
their rifles with them, and intending to spend the night with
the Tchuctchus. The day was calm and beautiful, and the
ice smooth and firm, enabling them to take a direct route
down the river and across the bay. They accomplished the
twenty-five miles without difficulty, arriving at the locality
they were seeking about 5 P.M., but, greatly to their disap
pointment, they found the Tchuctchus settlement abandoned.
Tired and hungry, they would have rested, but, knowing
they could not find the natives that night, and having nei
ther food nor matches with them, they were constrained to
retrace their steps, and endeavor to reach the hut as soon as

AN EPISODE :— MACRAE' S EXPERIENCES. 343
possible. To add to their misfortune, it had become much
colder, and a strong, cutting wind began to blow. The first
nineteen miles had to be made facing this severe wind, and
they found it almost impossible to make any headway on the
smooth ice. Their under-clothing had become moistened by
perspiration during the exercise in the early part of the day,
and now they perceived that the increasing cold was begin
ning to stiffen it about their persons. They saw at once
that if they relaxed their exertions death would certainly
follow, and, though tottering through exhaustion, yet spurred
on with desperation, they struggled manfully to regain the
shore, where they hoped to find more secure footing.
Night — dark, stormy, and bitterly cold, closed down upon
them, and yet they had not effected half of the return jour
ney. Their weary legs could barely support them, and the
slightest unevenness caused them to topple and fall. At
length Robinson threw himself down, and declared that he
would have to freeze, as he could go no farther ; but Macrae
relieved him of his revolver and gun, and, by assisting him
once more to his feet, on they struggled. Still some miles
intervened between them and the nearest shore. Hour suc
ceeded hour, and the wind and cold increased. None but
almost superhuman exertions on their part could save them ;
but, fully realizing their danger, by mutual encouragement
and assistance they struggled on. A heavy drowsiness suc
ceeded their sufferings from cold, and it was with difficulty
they could retain their feet. At length they regained the
land, but the hut was still six miles distant, and Robinson
avowed his intention of remaining there for the night. To
sleep under the circumstances was to die, and Macrae, know
ing this, had to resort to all kinds of means to urge his com
panion on. At length, after a long and desperate struggle,
at 3 o'clock in the morning they found themselves at the en
trance of their hut, nearly dead, but then the large dog did
not recognize them, and would not let them enter through
the tunnel. For some time they were detained outside, when
one of the party from within came to their assistance. They
were both badly frozen, and, upon removing their clothing, a
thick coating of frost was found on their bodies. Robinson
did not recover from the effects of the journey for three

344 REINDEER, D 0 GS, AND SNO W- SHOES.
weeks, being confined to his bed the greater part of the time.
They had traveled more than fifty miles without stopping,
having been twenty-three hours on the road.
At length the time arrived for Okakrae, the Tchuctchu, to
make his appearance. Some time elapsed, however, before he
presented himself, and then he had transportation for only
two of the party. To Macrae's inquiries about the town of
Anadyrsk, he could give no reply, never having heard the
name probably, but he conveyed the impression that there
was a settlement ten days journey distant up the river, call
ed Wewoki, where a priest resided. As a proof of this, he ex
hibited a document written in the Russian language, and a
small crucifix. One of the party understood the Russian lan
guage, and, as the document confirmed the native's state
ment, Macrae and Arnold resolved to accompany him, and to
send for the remainder of the party immediately upon their
arrival at the settlement.
To provide for accidental delays, they carried fifteen days'
provision to use on the road. Taking care to arm themselves
well, and having procured suitable clothing from the natives,
they at length took their departure, descending the Anadyr
to the bay, and then ascending another quite large stream
flowing from the southwest, to which Macrae gave the name
"Arnora," from the Tchuctchu pronunciation of Arnold's
name. They made very short days' journeys, sometimes at
night being able to see the spot they had left in the morn
ing. However, since they were in the minority, and entirely
at the mercy of the band they were accompanying, they
could only submit, and at the end of the ten days they found
their provision consumed and their journey barely com
menced. From the outset they had occupied a polog in Okakrae's
tent, and, as their host assisted them in disposing of their
provision, they were at an early day forced to adopt the
Tchuctchu mode of living. Half-cooked deer-meat, and soup
made from the contents ofthe deer's stomach, succeeded their
own well-selected rations. At length they found their way
to the grand rendezvous of the Tchuctchus, far to the south,
where the old " deer-chief" resided. They were delayed here
a number of days, and many ofthe other natives exerted all

AN EPISODE:— KENNAN' S ADVENTURES. 345
their influence with Okakrae to try and induce him to aban
don the party, and not carry them through to the settlement.
Not knowing the object of the expedition, and Macrae hav
ing no means of explaining it to them, they feared lest the
party might be spies, and were afraid of incurring the dis
pleasure of the Russians by carrying them through. By oc
casionally exhibiting their uniforms, and documents address
ed to th& Russian officials, the explorers conveyed the idea
to the savages that they were on an important mission; but
even these did not altogether protect them from impositions
and some abuse. On several occasions they thought it would
be necessary to resort to their arms, though it would certain
ly have proven fatal to themselves ; nevertheless, they saw
the necessity of presenting a bold front. After being sub
jected to innumerable annoying delays and petty persecu
tions, and after being obliged for more than fifty days to
adopt the Tchuctchu mode of living, with all its disgusting
details, on ihe sixty-fourth day after their departure from the
hut they reached the settlement. Their surprise was most
agreeable upon finding not only Kennan and Dodd, but the
three gentlemen whom they had left at the mouth ofthe
river. Since I had last seen Kennan at Petropaulovski before our
separation, he had also experienced many trying adventures,
and won for himself an enviable reputation for energy, per
severance, and endurance. But his journeys were so lengthy
and full of interesting details that I will not attempt to de
scribe them, but will refer the reader to Mr. Kennan's own
account of them, which have already been laid before the
public. At length our task was completed, and the whole tract of
country lying between the Amoor River and Behring Sea.
had been traversed, and the route of the line fixed upon.
For nearly two weeks after the arrival of the party from
Anadyrsk we gave ourselves up to such pleasures as the town
afforded. Sled rides and snow-shoeing excursions, filled the
hours of sunlight, and the evenings were devoted to vechour-
kas, card-parties, and the rehearsal of our various experiences.
Spring was making rapid strides, and the lengthening hours
of sunlight, with the milder temperature ofthe air, promised

346 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
us an opportunity of once more seeing bare land and open
water. The Anadyrsk sleds that had brought Kennan and party
were hastening their preparations to leave the Okhotsk coast,
fearing lest their departure should be prevented by the open
ing of the rivers to be crossed. Already the balmy salt air
and warm rays of the sun had made startling inroads upon
the winter's accumulation of snow on the tundra.
I now, for the second time, thought my winter journeyings
completed, and had settled down to the quiet enjoyment of
stationary life, when I received an order from the major ap
pointing me to the superintendence of that portion ofthe line
to be built between Ghijigha and Behring Sea. Accompany
ing this order were instructions for me to ]Droceed immedi
ately to Anadyrsk with the sleds about to return to that
place, and thence to descend the river to its mouth, to meet
vessels destined for that point in the spring. Macrae had
been appointed to the command of that portion of my dis
trict extending along the Anadyr River, known as the Ana
dyr Section, and was to accompany me.
We had but one day in which to make preparations for our
departure. This was ample time, however, our wardrobes
being entirely upon our backs, and there being no possibility
of increasing our supply of wearing apparel except by the
addition of a few fur garments of which we were in need. I
abandoned my pavoshka, and adopted for this journey one
of the lighter ordinary sleds, at the rear end of which my
driver lashed several light poles in such a manner as to make
a very comfortable support for the back. Macrae was sup
plied with a like conveyance. The major promised to follow
us, after a few days, as far as Anadyrsk, from which place he
intended to return with Messrs. Dodd and Robinson, whom
he had appointed to positions in the districts commanded by
Kennan and Mahood.

DEPARTURE FROM GHIJIGHA. 347

CHAPTER XXIV.
Departure from Ghijigha. — Molmofka Eiver. — Yakout Yourt. — Purchasing
Milk. — Dogs and Cow. — Yourt. — The Tundra. — Snow-blindness. — Deso
lation. — Usinova River. — Paren. — Eagles' Nests. — Early Start. — Poorga.
— First View of Coeil. — A close Race. — Coeil. — Strange Buildings. — Pa
gan Sacrifices. — Seeking an Entrance. — Interior. — Zda-ro-o-o-va. — Cal
drons. — Curiosity. — Seat of Honor. — Vermin. — Koraks. — Appearance.
— Costume. — Character. — Korak Meal. — Grunting. — Trading. — Korak
Dance. — The Town. — Population. — Fuel. — Civilized Koraks. — Settled
Koraks. — Reindeer-men. — Living. — Boats. — Weapons. — Snow-shoes.—
Worship. — Passion for strong Drink. — Muck-a-moor. — Method of becom
ing Intoxicated. — Marriage Ceremony. — One-sided Affair. — No Dog-food.
— Shooting with Bows and Arrows. — Insensibility. — Narrow Escape. —
Running and Wrestling. — Start.— Meekina. — Inhospitable Reception. —
Shestakova Settlement and River. — Ice-bridges. — Shestakova Khrebet. —
Cold Traveling. — Snow Encampment. — Night Costume. — Aklan River. —
Fish and Game. — Resuscitating Dogs. — Severe Remedy.
Wednesday, April 18th, dawned fair and favorable for the
commencement of our journey. The weather was sufficient
ly cold to make the snow firm and crisp, and the dogs, after
their several- days' rest, appeared to be in excellent condition.
Bone runners having been attached to the bottoms of our
sleds in anticipation of rough traveling, and our road provi
sion having been carefully packed away, after taking leave
of our friends, the whistle was given, and off we started at a
brisk trot over a rise ofthe tundra back ofthe town. In a
few minutes all traces ofthe settlement were lost to sight.
It was quite late in the day when we took our departure,
so we did not intend going more than thirty versts before
camping. After proceeding about ten versts we struck the wooded
banks of the Molmofka, a small tributary of the Ghijigha
River. Near this point we stopped at a yourt where a Ya
kout lived, to procure a few pounds of milk for road use, the
proprietor being the owner of two or three cows.
It may seem strange to hear of buying milk by the pound,
but at this convenient season ofthe year that article is bought

348

REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

and sold in a frozen state, and can be carried for a long pe
riod in a simple bag. When required for use, the requisite
quantity is chopped off with a hatchet or sheath-knife, and
thawed as needed.
From the hut we traveled up the Molmofka through a for
est of fine larch-trees, and just at dark reached a small road
yourt, at which we camped for the night.
At the Yakout's house we came near having a repetition
ofthe scene I had witnessed near Arman, but in this case the
victim was a cow instead of a deer. The dogs pounced upon
the animal and dragged her to the ground, but the kindly
interference ofthe drivers prevented any great mischief be
ing done.

THE TUNDRA.

By four o'clock the next morning we had renewed our jour
ney, taking an easterly course from the yourt, over a vast
barren tundra, leaving all traces of vegetation behind us.
The snow of the tundra, having been subjected to the warm

THE TUNDRA. 349
rays ofthe sun for several days, presented a glassy surface,
from which the reflected sunlight shone with such dazzling
brilliancy that in a few moments our whole party was nearly
blinded, and we were compelled to resort to our goggles for
protection. Even these hardly sufficed to shield our eyes,
and it was only with pain that we could look upon the snow
at all. Our drivers were even less fortunate than we, as they
were compelled to keep their eyes open in order to direct the
dogs, and their protectors were not as effectual as ours. Some
of these simply consisted of strips of tin perforated with small
holes, or having long, very narrow slits cut through them,
while others were of wood, shaped so as to fit the upper part
ofthe face, through which were cut narrow slits, one for each
eye. After two hours' travel the dark line of timber had entire
ly vanished in the distance behind us, and we found ourselves
wending our way over the trackless waste, which extended
on all sides in undulating sweeps, bounded only by the hori
zon. The dreary solitude and awful silence that reigned over
this rigid, lifeless expanse produced a feeling of strangeness
that I could not overcome — a feeling as if some dread calam
ity was about to be launched upon us. I experienced a long
ing sensation, and felt that if I could only see some motion,
if nothing more than the fluttering of a dry leaf, or if a dead,
knotty stump would only present itself jutting from the snow,
how great a relief it would be ! But no ; there it lay, cold,
stark, stiff, and motionless, the very corpse of Nature, over
whose lifeless form we were noiselessly picking our way.
For more than two hours I did not hear a word spoken, or a
sound from man or beast. All seemed to be under the influ
ence ofthe spell.
After ten hours' journey we came to a small frozen stream
in the midst of the desert, called the Usinova River, from
whose banks arose a dozen quite large, rough-barked, weath
er-beaten trees, from which the stream derives its name.
Here we collected dry branches enough to cook dinner, and
halted two hours, to give our dogs and men a chance to rest.
At 5 P.M. we renewed our journey over the tundra, passing
a chain of small frozen lakes; and at 10 P.M., just after sun
set, descended to the bed of the Paren River, a stream about

350 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
one hundred feet wide, whose banks were bordered with nar
row strips of fine forest, consisting of larch, spruce, birch, and
a kind of poplar. I counted six eagle's-nests in the tree-tops,
all in sight from our camp, on this stream.
At 3 o'clock in the morning I was awakened by snow fall
ing on my face (we had brought no tent with us), and, upon
opening my eyes, found it broad daylight, but the heavens
were partially obscured by threatening clouds. Fearing a
poorga, and being anxious to reach the Korak settlement
of Coeil, about thirty versts ahead, before the storm should
break upon us, we barely took time to prepare tea before-
starting out. Emerging from the narrow wooded belt on
the east bank of the Paren, we ascended a long, gradually-
sloping plain, and once more found ourselves on an elevated,
rolling tundra, similar to the one we had crossed on the pre
vious day. Over this waste we traveled for several hours,
during which the dreary monotony was undisturbed by the
appearance of the smallest twig or any object whatever.
Even the tracks of former caravans had been obliterated by
a fall of snow during the night, and on all sides, extending
to the horizon, was an unvarying, unbroken whiteness. I
can conceive of nothing more dreary and uninviting than
these tundras in winter.
On this occasion we passed it under the most favorable
circumstances. The morning was mild and calm, and over
hanging clouds protected our eyes and faces from the daz
zling rays of the sun. But the very stillness was ominous,
and we were in constant expectation of feeling the first blast
of the inevitably-approaching poorga. The constant shouts
of our drivers, and their efforts to urge on the dogs at a more
rapid pace, showed that they fully understood the threaten
ing indications.
About 10 A.M., as we attained the crest of a low elevation,
my driver, after gazing, for some moments ahead over the
plain, called my attention to a barely perceptible dark line
on the verge of the horizon, at the same time muttering the
word "Coeil," and immediately afterward the dogs, seem
ing to realize the proximity of shelter, started off on the full
bound. But it was a sharp race, for about this time we saw
the snow beginning to rise in puffs from the tundra in the

A POORGA.— ARRIVAL AT COEIL. 351
distance, and in a few moments we found ourselves enveloped
in a thick cloud of snow, that swept the plain with the force
of an avalanche, accompanied by a furious, cutting hurricane
of cold wind. Our dogs staggered, and the sleds reeled be
fore the. blast.
As soon as the settlement was pointed out to me, I took its
bearing with my compass, and it was well I did so, as we had
to depend upon its guidance for the rest of the way, though
some of the drivers exhibited no small amount of contempt
at the idea of a small brass box knowing more of the country
¦ than they did. After an hour's struggle against the gale the
wind suddenly lulled, and directly ahead several large dark
objects loomed up through the driving snow, which we knew
at once to be the habitations at Coeil. But such habitations
I had never before seen, and, had I not been prepared for a
strange sight by the accounts of our other parties who had
previously visited the place, I would have been at a loss to
comprehend their object.
Before me was a group of log structures, each one more
resembling a huge hour-glass than any thing else I can com
pare them to. This effect was produced by the fact that the
habitable portion of each establishment was all beneath the
ground, nothing but the conical roof being visible. On top
of this is poised another inverted roof of about the same size,
supported at the outer rim by long poles, which in many cases
extended above the structure. To these several dead dogs
were suspended as sacrifices to the pagan gods, the pointed
ends of the poles being thrust into their necks. Belonging
to each house, and erected on a scaffolding near by, several
feet above the snow, out of the reach of dogs, were conical
aud pyramidal structures used as store-rooms. About these
were suspended their fish-nets, dog-harness, and every thing
that might possibly aid in appeasing the ravenous appetites
of the troops of half-starved dogs that thronged the settle
ment. As we drove into the place, the inhabitants swarmed on
the tops of their yourts like so many bees, and began to
gather about us to ascertain the. object of our visit. Being
desirous to get shelter, I walked around the habitation before
which we had stopped with the hope of finding an entrance

352 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
to the place, but failed completely in my object, and was at
a loss to know what to do, when a large, round-faced, good-
natured Korak came to me, and made signs for me to follow
him. We ascended a long pole, in which a series of holes
were cut as steps — no mean feat in itself — when I found my
self in the basin-like apparatus on top of the hut. This place
was decorated with sealskins stuffed with putrid seal-fat used
as food, and with snow-shoes, dog-harness, and several little
pups choked to death with wisps of straw, the latter also as
sacrifices to their pagan gods. In the middle of the space
was a dark hole, about two feet square, leading to some sub
terranean den, from which issued clouds of smoke, and a most
villainous combination of all the most disagreeable odors.
Chekin, my guide, and the proprietor of the yourt, after
glancing back to see that I was following, with a smile of
encouragement stuck his feet in the hole, and, grasping an
other pole like the one we had ascended, rapidly disappeared
from sight. I followed as best I could under the circum
stances, being ignorant of the premises and stifled with
smoke. Down, down I crept, vainly stretching out my legs
every few steps with the hope of touching bottom, and had
about concluded that the place must be the entrance to the
bottomless pit, when I found myself on solid footing.
The moment I struck, salutations came from the impene
trable gloom on all sides, to which I replied, in the same
words and tones, "Zda-ro-o-o-va" but I was unable to distin
guish a single object for some moments afterward. When
my eyes became accustomed to the darkness, I was enabled
to find my way to where Macrae was sitting, he having en
tered while I was hunting for the door outside; and then, by
degrees, the nature of the establishment disclosed itself.
The apartment was octagonal in form, and about twenty-
five feet in diameter, constructed of drift-logs standing on
end, and the whole supported by a heavy frame of smoke-
blackened, glossy logs. The aperture through which we had
descended was about twenty-five feet above the dirt floor,
and was hardly discernible through the dense smoke that
filled the upper half of the room. Extending around the
apartment, about two feet above the floor, was a wide plat
form burdened with huge piles of filthy fur bedding and

BEDS AND BEDFELLOWS.— THE KORAKS. 353
clothing, upon which sat or reclined from fifteen to twenty
Koraks of both sexes, from hideous, toothless old hags down
to fat, chubby babes, besmeared with seal-fat arid dirt. Over
this platform a number of pologs were suspended, serving as
different apartments, and capable altogether of containing
about fifty persons after the Korak mode of sleeping. In the
middle of the floor, directly under the entrance, a fire was
kept burning for heating purposes, and just beyond, support
ed upon several large stones, was a huge copper caldron in
which they prepare their meals of seal and whale meat.
That portion of the platform nearest the foot of the perfo
rated log by which we had descended is considered the post
of honor, and is always reserved for guests, when there are
any; at other times the master ofthe house occupies it. Be
fore taking formal possession, we took the precaution to have
the old skins removed and our own bedding substituted in its
stead, not liking the ominous gestures of the Koraks near us,
which thoroughly satisfied us as to the -presence of other
creatures, with which we desired no acquaintance whatever.
The Koraks are a very peculiar and distinct people, both
in appearance and customs. The men are of good stature,
large and robust, with fat, good-natured faces, small black
eyes, prominent cheek-bones, broad noses, and heavy lips.
They shave the tops of their heads, merely leaving a fringe
of coarse black hair hanging over their eyes and ears, which
gives them the appearance of monks. The women have the
same cast of features as the men, but tattoo their faces, hav
ing lines drawn down their foreheads, noses, and chins, and
their cheeks covered with an intricate scroll-work. When
they do comb their hair they part it in the middle, and usu
ally let it hang in two braids down their back, interwoven
with strings of beads.
Their garments are of nicely-dressed reindeer-skins, and
are worn with the fur inside, the pattern being much the
same as that ofthe Tungusians; but no regard whatever is
given to cleanliness. They eat any thing they can get,
whether whale, seal, or reindeer meat, or fish, and their diet
seems to agree with them, there being no scarcity of the arti
cle called fat in their composition. They are naturally bold
and independent, having little regard for death, and are gen-
Z

354 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
erally hospitably inclined, but have been known to resort to
treachery when opportunity offered.
Our reception by Chekin was all that could be desired un
der the circumstances, and, availing ourselves of his hospital
ity, without farther ado we disposed ourselves as comfortably
as possible to await the cessation of the poorga, and resolved
to make no complaints whatever of what we should see, feel,
or smell. Vassilly, our Cossack, who had accompanied us
from Ghijigha, in a few moments after our arrival had tea
and lunch prepared, which Chekin shared with us ; and then,
after lighting our pipes, we lay back to enjoy the novelty of
our position, and take notes of Korak customs.
A fire was soon built under the big caldron, and several
large masses of seal-meat were thrown in, shortly after which
their meal was announced, and the native inmates, large and
small, each armed with a large knife, assembled around wood
en trays filled with the steaming meat, and commenced the
onslaught. They showed no want of appetite whatever, a matter which
astonished me very much a few moments afterward, when I
saw one of the younger members of the household making
use of one of these same trays for an entirely different pur
pose. After their meal the women returned to their occu
pations of dressing skins and grunting their babies to sleep,
while the men produced their small-bowled pipes and gath
ered around us, watching every movement with the greatest
curiosity. The striking of a match, together with the fire
that immediately ensued, elicited exclamations of the great
est surprise ; but a few rings of smoke that rolled from Mac
rae's mouth while enjoying his pipe completely won their
admiration, and they gathered from all sides to witness a
repetition of the remarkable feat. Every few seconds dur
ing the afternoon the place would be darkened by the in
gress or egress of some burly Korak passing through the
aperture above, causing a constant flitting of light. Each
one of them brought foxskins or some article which they
wished to exchange for tobacco, knives, and a few other
trinkets we had brought with us.
We gained the everlasting friendship of two or three of
the filthy belles ofthe settlement by giving them some strings

DANCING PARTY AT COEIL. 355
of fancy beads, and they, in return, treated us to an exhibition
of one of their favorite dances, which, though strange and
weird to look at, is very difficult to describe. Stepping
into the middle space, they began by uttering low, peculiar
grunts, that appeared to come from the stomach, accompany
ing each grunt with a short, quick squat, at the same time
swaying their bodies back and forth with an undulating mo
tion, and swinging their arms in the air. This they contin
ued for some moments, gradually quickening their motions,
and altering the tones of their grunts. By degrees they be
came warmed to the sport, and in a few moments were
bouncing about, writhing, and twisting, and distorting their
bodies and faces in such a manner as to be hardly recogniza
ble as human beings. During all this time they continued
to utter unearthly groans, grunts, and squeaks, that appeared
to come from all parts of their bodies, with the cracking of
their joints thrown in for accompaniment. This performance
they continued until the perspiration flowed in streams from
every pore, and the dancers became so hoarse that it was no
longer possible for them to grunt, when, completely over
come with exhaustion and excitement, they threw themselves
down upon the ground to recover their composure. Upon
seeing this, I was forcibly reminded of the remark of a Chi
nese official, who was invited, one hot day, to attend a ball
given at the Chinese port of Amoy to a number of our naval
officers who were there temporarily. The dignitary sat with
our consul and several officers upon a raised platform over
looking the hall, but his stoical countenance exhibited no
traces whatever either of pleasure or dislike. While the
dancers were whirling about the hall in light summer dress,
and wiping the profuse perspiration from their faces, keep
ing step to a lively waltz, the consul turned to the official
and asked him how he enjoyed it. " Oh, very well," he re
plied ; " but I should think you would make your servants
do it for you." So I thought of this dance. It was all very
well for the lookers-on, but I would prefer being excused from
participating in it.
Coeil contains about three hundred inhabitants, and is sit
uated upon a low bank overlooking Penjinsk Gulf. The
nearest tree is on the Paren River, so the inhabitants have to

356 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
depend altogether upon drift-logs for fuel and material for
constructing their houses. In their polog, however, as I have
already stated, they burn seal oil.
There are three classes of Koraks ; the civilized or convert
ed, whom I have already described, living in the settlements
along the coast west of Ghijigha — at Yamsk, Toumane, and
Niakona. They are hardly distinguishable from any of the
other civilized natives. The other two classes still retain
their original barbarous customs and pagan beliefs. The
first of these are known as the settled Koraks, they having
permanent abodes on Penjinsk Gulf, and subsist almost en
tirely upon the produce of the sea, like the Esquimaux.
These Koraks, with the exception of a few scattering huts,
are confined to four settlements — Coeil, Meekina, Shestakova,
and Karmenoi. They have but few guns, and depend upon
their bows and arrows, and bone-headed spears and harpoons,
in the capture of whales and other large game. Seal they
usually catch in very large seines made of seal thongs, and
for the capture of smaller fish they use twine seines that
they procure from Ghijigha.
They make use of two kinds of boats or canoes, consisting
of a light frame-work of birch-wood, over which they stretch •
sealskins, firmly sewed together in the proper shape, and the
seams closed w(ith grease or pitch. The larger kind are, some
of them, capable of carrying forty men, and are open at the
top. The others are much like the Greenland " kiak," in
tended for one or two men, and are entirely covered over ex
cept at the circular holes in which the natives sit. They use
dogs and sleds for winter transportation, but their snow-
shoes are different from the ones already described. These
consist of wooden bows, rounded, and raised in front, and
pointed at the rear, over which a network of seal-thongs is
interwoven, but are very clumsy, and not as buoyant as those
used by the Yakouts and Tungusians. They are pagans, wor
shiping invisible gods, whom they approach through their
shamans. To these spirits they offer sacrifices of their best
dogs when threatened by sickness or disaster ; and in travel
ing they usually have certain rocks or mountains that they
look upon with superstitious awe, and which they never pass
without making some oblation. Like nearly all savage peo-

KORAK CUSTOMS. 357
pie, they have a strong passion for any thing of an intoxica
ting nature. They will sacrifice almost any thing for strong
drink ; but, as it is often difficult to procure this, they manu
facture for themselves a beverage from a species of poison
ous toadstool, called " muck-a-moor," which the Russians use
for exterminating vermin. This fungus is very highly es
teemed by them, but its scarcity and consequent costliness
places it beyond the reach of the poorer people. These lat
ter, however, through a very questionable process, are always
participants in the sprees of those who have the means of
procuring it. The liquor is prepared by simply steeping the
fungus, and is drank in quite large quantities without any
apparent injurious effects. In a few minutes the fortunate
ones get thoroughly intoxicated, and imbibe to such an ex
tent that they are forced to relieve themselves of the super
fluity, on which occasions the poorer people stand prepared
with bowls to catch the liquid, which they quaff, and in turn
become intoxicated. In this manner a whole settlement will
sometimes get drunk from liquor consumed by one individual.
The following description of courtship and marriage among
the Koraks, which I received from Vassilly the Cossack, is
something of a novelty in that line :
When once the young beau becomes infatuated, he makes
known his passion to the father of his " affinity," and express
es his desire to strive for her hand. A kind of contract is
immediately entered into, by which the young man hinds
himself to the father as a servant for a term of years, at the
expiration of which time he can have the pleasure of learn
ing whether the daughter will have him or not. In this
manner, if the father be the happy possessor of a beautiful
daughter, he may have half a dozen men ready to do his bid
ding at one time. When the term of servitude expires, one
ofthe larger yourts is selected, and all the old women ofthe
place, armed with sticks and pieces of seal-thong, are station
ed in the pologs suspended around the room. The daughter
then appears, thickly clad in skin garments, followed by her
lover, when a race ensues around the inclosure, the contes
tants dodging about among the pologs. To win his bride,
he must overtake her, and leave the print of his nail upon
her person before she can be rescued by the old women, who,

358

REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

KORAK UEAU.

during the race, im
pede thejover as much
as possible by beating
him with sticks, and
tripping him by seiz
ing his legs as he rush
es by them.
The advantage is all
with the girl, and if
she does not wish to
become the wife of her
pursuer, she can avoid
him without difficulty.
On the contrary, if she
likes him, she manages
to stumble, or makes
known her wishes to the old women, who then only make a
show of impeding the pursuer. Sometimes the lover is so
desperately smitten that, just after being foiled, he returns to
the father, and binds himself for another period of years for
the privilege of making another trial.
The third class of Koraks, known as the Reindeer Koraks,
are again quite different from these. They are a nomadic
people, living in skin tents like the Tungusians, and own im
mense herds of reindeer,
which they drive from
place to place to pro
cure food.
The poorga continued
without cessation dur
ing the day, and also
through the following
one ; so we had to con
tent ourselves with the
unavoidable delay, and
submit calmly to the
disgusting sights and
smells that the place af
forded. Not the least
of our afflictions were

KORAK BELLE.

SHOOTING.— RUNNING— GYMNASTICS. 359
the merciless attacks of scores of a species of vermin that had
a peculiar fondness for American meat, and insatiable appe
tites to gratify.
Here, for the first time, I learned that the drivers were
without dog-food, they having left Ghijigha with only two
days' supply, expecting to procure enough fish and seal fat
from the Koraks to carry them through to the town of Pen
jina, where they could obtain a fresh supply. But the stock
of the Coeil Koraks was so nearly exhausted that we could
not obtain more than enough to supply our teams during our
delay, and we were therefore obliged to depend upon the
Meekina or Shestakova natives for a supply for road use.
During our second day's sojourn at this place time hung
heavily, and every few minutes some of the party would as
cend to the roof, hoping to detect some signs of the storm
abating. The natives seemed to wholly disregard the wind and driv
ing snow, having probably become inured to it, and all
through the morning the small boys were out shooting at a
mark with their bows and bone-headed arrows. To test their
skill, I placed a number of Russian copper coins on top of a
stick for them to shoot at, the ones who struck them to have
the money, but their shooting was very wild*
One little incident happened, however, which well illus
trated the stoical, insensible natures of these people, the de
velopment of which traits in such youths astonished us very
much. In a direct line with the coins at which they were
shooting, and about forty feet beyond, two girls stood, lean
ing against a log store-house. In shooting, one ofthe arrows
struck a hard snow-bank, and glanced off in the direction of
the girls, who, seeing it coming, had no time to get out ofthe
way, but bowed their heads to avoid it. The next instant the
shaft buried itself quivering in a soft log just over one of
their heads. I could not avoid an involuntary shudder when
I saw the arrow strike, but the little heathens exhibited no
traces of emotion whatever, and, hardly deigning to follow
the course ofthe arrow with their eyes, continued to shoot
with the greatest unconcern.
Afterward the men gave us an exhibition of some of their
sports in wrestling and running foot-races. They are a strong,

360 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
athletic race, and their feats of agility and skill would have
put to shame some of our gymnasts. In wrestling, they strip
ped the upper portions of their bodies to the skin, regardless
of wind and snow, and each grasping the other with one
hand by the hair, and with the other clutching a good thick
fold of flesh and fat in the side, they twisted, writhed, jerked,
and tripped, until one of the contestants lay half buried in
the snow. After one of these struggles, the vanquished re
tained in his hand a thick tuft of black hair he had jerked
from his opponent's head, and several ofthe participants bore
red finger-marks and severe scratches on their sides, from
which blood flowed quite freely. One of their favorite ruses
was to grasp the opponent about the neck with both hands,
and, by dint of chokings and quick jerks, to force him to suc
cumb. i Sunday, April 22d, was yet stormy, but there being indi
cations of the storm subsiding, we pushed on. We followed
the bend of the gulf, traveling sometimes on the salt ice and
sometimes on the edge of the tundra, the weather vai-ying
between sharp snow-squalls and intervals of sunlight. At
7 o'clock P.M. we reached the settlement of Meekina, which
is in every respect like Coeil, though containing fewer houses.
Our dogs appeared to be so much exhausted from the jour
ney that we were forced to halt for the night. These Ko
raks were not as hospitable as those at Coeil, and assumed
an insulting, independent air. Though having plenty of dog-
food, they refused to let us have any at any price, and we
were obliged to borrow one night's supply from a fellow-trav
eler. After shaking the snow from our feet, we hastened our de
parture at 4 A.M. the following morning, pursuing an easter
ly course over the tundra, and at 9.30 A.M. arrived at the
Korak settlement of Shestakova, situated at the mouth of a
small river of the same name.
It was near this place that the young Russian officer Shes
takova, with his party, were surprised and massacred early in
the last century. We stopped here only long enough to pro
cure dog-food, which the natives willingly supplied us with,
and, leaving the sea-coast, took a northerly course up the
Shestakova River. This stream had already begun to open

SNOW ENCAMPMENT— NIGHT COSTUME. 361
in many places, making it necessary for us to construct ice
bridges. Just at sunset we reached the head of the river, and as
cended a long, gradual divide known as the Shestakova
Khrebet. Beyond this, for more than twenty versts, no
wood could be obtained for camp purposes, and we were
obliged to continue our journey until 10 o'clock P.M. The
moment we passed the ridge there was a strongly percepti
ble change in the atmosphere. During the last hour of the
journey, while picking our way through the darkness, we all
suffered much from cold. Our thermometer indicated —30°
Fahrenheit. We camped for the night on a small tributary of the Ak-
lan, at a point where enough dry sticks could be procured
for our camp-fire. The snow at this place was six feet in
depth, in which some previous travelers had dug a deep well
or pit large enough for our fire and to furnish our party with
sleeping-places. We gratefully availed ourselves of the hole, as a cold, dis
agreeable wind swept the tundra above, but, while nestled
down in this pit, we avoided the blasts altogether, and the
light and heat of our large fire, reflected from the snow walls
that surrounded us, gave a cheerful and comfortable aspect
to the place.
On this journey I abandoned my old custom of undressing
myself nightly, and adopted that of the natives, who, upon
retiring, instead of removing any of their clothing, pile on
all the extra furs in their possession. Before leaving Ghiji
gha I had supplied myself with a robe de nuit and sleeping-
socks. The first consisted of an immense fur kuklanker of
double thickness, and extending to my ankles ; a heavy, spa
cious hood covered the head, and was bordered with a thick
fringe of wolf-hair, to keep the drifting snow out of my face
while sleeping. Once attired in this, and having donned my
fur sleeping-socks, each of which was as large as a small-sized
barrel, I could set Jack Frost at defiance, and all else needed
to complete my comfort was to throw my bearskin on the
soft snow for a mattress. We, however, found it a very nec
essary precaution to remove our inside fur socks before retir
ing, and to replace them with fresh, dry ones. During the

362 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
day these invariably absorb more or less dampness from per
spiration, and, unless changed, cause the feet to freeze during
the night.
We did not renew our journey until 7 A.M. in the morn
ing, when we took a direct northerly course across the tun
dra for the Aklan River, ten versts distant. This stream is
two hundred feet in width at this point, well wooded on the
immediate banks, and flows eastwardly for about fifty versts,
when it empties into the Penjina. The Penjina drains all
this inland territory, of several hundred miles in extent, and
flows into Penjinsk Gulf a few miles east of the settlement
of Shestakova. Both streams abound in fish, and their wood
ed banks afford shelter to a large variety of game, including
bears, wolves, foxes, sable, and hare.
Without halting, except to resuscitate one of the rear dogs
that had been run over by a heavy sled dashing down the
steep river bank, we pushed on through the wooded belt for
about half a mile, and again emerged upon the tundra. The
process of resuscitation, as practiced by these drivers, is not
exactly in accordance with our civilized notions of such
things. The animal, being one of the lazy class that I have
previously described, was too indolent to run, and the trace
by which he was attached to the seal-thong was just long
enough to allow the whole weight of the sled to rest upon
the creature. When once started down the declivity, it was
impossible to stop the sled before reaching the bottom, and
the trace-line refused to break, so that the dog's body was
kept underneath the runners during the whole distance, serv
ing as a kind of clog. Upon being dragged out, no trace of
life could be detected in the animal ; but a few well-directed
kicks and blows, and a rough tumbling about in the snow,
revived it, and, after stretching itself, it started off, apparent
ly as well as ever. The most remarkable thing of all is that
the creatures don't profit from past experiences, but are al
ways ready to repeat the performance whenever a hill is to
be descended.

THE OOSCANINA MOUNTAIN. 363

CHAPTER XXV
.More Tundra.— Ooscanina Mountain.— Worn-out Dogs. —Mystery Solved.
— Ineffectual Scolding. — A good Ruse. — Ooscanina Rivers. — Ishiginski
Mountain. — Valley of the Penjina. — A fearful Poorga. — Scattered Sleds.
— A Night-search. — Penjina. — Anadyrsk Sleds. — Proposed Exploration
of the Myan.— Serious Obstacles. — The Start. — Slavotna River. — Laceitsa
Soapka. — The Myan. — Mount Polpol.— A Mirage. — Strange Illusion. —
Dancing City. — Polpol River. — Korak Trail. — Snow-storm. — Poorga
Camp. — Polog. — Hunting Wood. — Stormy Night. — Hunting Koraks. —
Success. — Reindeer Koraks. — Character and Appearance. — Great Wealth.
— Government. — Lords and Retainers. — The Value of Reindeer. — Their
Uses. — Sonkees. — Advantages of Fish as Dog-food. — Fearful Poorga. —
May-day. — Keeping Awake. — Provoking Deception. — Off again. — More
Poorga. — Return River. — Seeking Shelter. — Roast-rib Camp. — The Myan.
— Thawing. — Day Halts. — A tender Organ. — Remedy for Snow-blindness.
— Orlofka River. — Abasa River. — Swans and Bear-tracks. — Game. — Sled-
tracks. — Our Speculations. — Nature of Country. — Traveling. — Prospect
Bluff. — Night-thaw. — Laluma. — Exhaustion. — Overtaken. — Last Fish. —
Olgan River.— Telegraph Bluff. — -Anadyr Valley. — Crepast. — Close of
Journey. Emekging from the Aklan, before us lay a vast level plain
of snow, varying from fifteen to twenty-five miles in width,
and bounded on either side by low ranges of white hills, that
gradually came together in the distance far to the north.
Upon these, in places; black masses of rock jutted from the
snow, but not a trace of vegetation was to be seen. One
dome-like mountain on the right was crowned with a large,
regular mass of rock, with perpendicular sides and level top,
above which loomed occasional turrets and fantastic projec
tions. To this we gave the name of Castle Mountain. The
plain was smooth, and presented a hard, polished surface,
from which the sun reflected with such brilliancy that not
only was our eyesight endangered, but we had to resort to
buckskin masks, with which we were provided, to prevent
our faces from blistering. Our course lay directly across this
for twelve hours' travel, when we found ourselves at the foot
of a low divide, called Ooscanina (rabbit) Mountain by the
natives. Here we camped, on a small, lightly-wooded tribu-

364 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
tary of the Aklan. We had crossed two similar streams dur
ing the day.
Many of our dogs showed signs of giving out during this
day's journey, and seemed to have such difficulty in drawing
the sleds that we decided to have an investigation. The
mystery was soon solved, for, upon removing our own light
baggage, we found that the drivers had packed underneath
several hundred pounds of stores for their own use unbe
known to us. For the transportation of this we were ex
pected to pay. But it was too late to remedy the matter
now, and we had to content ourselves with venting our in
dignation in what must have been very poor Russian, for the
scamps could hardly conceal their smiles, in spite of their fear
lest we should tumble their loads off on the snow and leave
them behind.
During the latter part of the journey the natives adopted
a ruse to encourage the dogs which must have been very ag
gravating, but was, nevertheless, quite effectual. The best
team was put in advance, followed by the others in the order
of their efficiency, and then a dried fish was suspended over
the back of each narta, the scent of which, reaching the hun
gry teams following, caused them to redouble their exertions,
with the hope of catching up to it.
April 25th. — We had but one day's dog-food left, and still
upward of one hundred versts intervened between us and the
town of Penjina, the nearest settlement. At 4 A.M. we were
ascending a divide called Ooscanina Khrebet. Beyond this
ridge we struck another tundra similar to the one of the day
before, drained by three small streams called First, Second,
and Third Ooscanina Rivers, which empty into the Penjina
above the mouth of the Aklan. Three dark threads winding
and twisting about on the vast sheet of snow before us, as
viewed from Ooscanina Khrebet, indicated their courses. On
the farther side, Ishiginski Mount, a small conical peak, but
prominent landmark, denoted our course. For this we start
ed in a northeast direction, and at 4 P.M. reached another
, low divide, extending westwardly from the base of the peak.
From this ridge we looked down upon another plain, inter
sected by two or three scantily-wooded streams. Far to the
other side was the Penjina River, extending along the base

TO AND AT PENJINA. '365
of a low range of bluffs, beneath which the town of Penjina
is located.
But many dreary versts had to be traversed before we
could reach the place, and we immediately dipped down into
the lowlands in order to lose no time. This plain was very
uneven, and cut up by small gulches, which, with great patch
es of laurel brush that obstructed our way, made traveling
comparatively slow, and night, dark and cold, with threaten
ing indications of a poorga, settled down upon us before we
had accomplished half the distance. About twenty versts
still intervened, and we cheered on our dogs to find shelter
before the storm should break upon us. In half an hour more
snow was flying in clouds, driven by furious blasts of cold
wind directly in our faces. My compass was of little assist
ance, I not knowing in which direction to look for the town,
and the natives, having become confused, appeared to know
as little of the place as we did.
In a short time the nartas became separated from each
other in the storm and darkness. We could not make our
shouts heard above the howling of the wind, consequently
could not reassemble, and were compelled, singly or in pairs,
to keep our northerly course as best we could, many of the
men being guided only by the wind, that blew from the di
rection they wished to take. Our chief hope was to find shel
ter among the trees on the banks of the river. After several
long hours, two of our sleds that had kept together struck
the stream, whether above or below the settlement we could
not tell. We would have camped, but had no food for our
dogs, and Vassilly's narta, upon which our provision was
packed, was nowhere to be found. At a hazard, we decided
to go up stream in search of the village, and were fortunate
in picking up, at intervals, four or five more of the scattered
teams. After a couple of hours' groping and stumbling along
the river bed, we struck a trail, and at 2 o'clock in the morn
ing entered Penjina. Some of the sleds did not get in until
long after daylight.
Penjina is a small settlement after the style of Tausk and
Yamsk, though most of the houses are rather inferior. It
does not contain more than fifty inhabitants, consisting of
Cossacks and Russianized natives ofthe Chuansee and Uka-

366 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
gari tribes principally, though the blood of all of them is
more or less mixed. Upon our arrival we found several
Anadyrsk sleds loaded with provision, that had preceded us
several days from Ghijigha.
From this place Anadyrsk is not more than four long days'
journey distant by a direct route, but it was our intention
to strike eastward to the Myan River, a large tributary of
the Anadyr, flowing north, and to explore it to its mouth,
with a view of ascertaining whether it would furnish a suit
able route for the line, and if it afforded proper timber for
poles. Kennan, in his northward journey, had undertaken
the same route from Penjina, but, after proceeding halfway
down the stream, was obliged to abandon the project from
want of dog-food, and to take a direct route for Anadyrsk.
The poorga continued without cessation during the 26th
and 27th, raging with great fury, and causing us more than
once to congratulate ourselves on having gotten off as well
as we did. While here we met with a very serious obstacle
to the realization of our plans, which well-nigh upset them
altogether. The proposed exploration was to extend through
a difficult and almost unknown region even to the natives,
and might consume many long days. We would, in all prob
ability, encounter deep snow, and, having no roads nor even
guides except for a small portion of the way, our progress
would necessarily be slow.
To succeed in such an undertaking, good fresh dogs and an
abundant supply of dog-food were very essential. Upon in
quiry, I found that only one team could be obtained in Pen
jina, and the supply of dried fish was so nearly exhausted
that not more than one hundred and fifty fish could be pro
cured — enough to sustain three teams only five days. To
start out singly with such a limited supply of food would be
madness, and I was well-nigh forced, though very reluctant
ly, to abandon the project altogether for the present. How
ever, rather than do this, we resolved to make an effort to
reach the wandering Koraks, who live somewhere to the east
ward of the Myan, and then, should we succeed in procuring
deer-meat sufficient to sustain our dogs for a few days, we
would continue the exploration.
We selected enough of the best dogs from our train to

START FOR THE MYAN— POLPOL MOUNTAIN. 367
make two tolerable teams, which, with the fresh one from
Penjina, would be all that were required. Then, having cut
down our supplies for road use, and our personal baggage to
the smallest possible weight, we forwarded the remainder on
the other sleds for Anadyrsk by the direct route, and took
our departure for the Koraks on the morning ofthe 28th of
April. Our party consisted of Macrae and myself, with our
drivers and the Cossack Vassilly, who accompanied us as
cook and commissary.
From Penjina we took a course a little south of east, over
a barren, rolling country, for about twenty versts, when we
came to the Slavotna River, a small, scantily-wooded stream,
that has its rise in a range of hills which separates it and its
tributaries from the Myan River, about forty versts north of
where we were, and then flows south into the Penjina.
East of this stream we passed a low divide at a point near
a prominent sugar-loaf peak known as " Laceitsa Soapka," or
Fox Peak. From this point we had a magnificent view of
the valley of the Myan, extending east and west about fifty
versts, and visible in a northerly direction for nearly double
that distance. It lay spread out before us in a vast sheet of
snow, unbroken except by two winding lines of black specks,
denoting the courses of streams. At the confluence of these,
farther to the north, the Myan commences.
But the most prominent feature ofthe landscape was a rag
ged, conical peak, about five thousand feet in height, that
reared itself abruptly from a range of white hills that bound
ed the valley on the east. This was Mount Polpol, one ofthe
largest peaks in this part ofthe country. Beyond this moun
tain we hoped to find the Koraks. We continued our course
across this valley, and, after proceeding ten versts, reached
the first ofthe streams, where we camped for the night. The
next morning was quite cold, and the atmosphere had a pe
culiar glassy appearance.
We resumed our journey at 3.30 o'clock A.M., steering di
rectly for Polpol Mountain. The peak appeared as if seen
through a dim glass ; but, as I was watching it closely, trying
to detect the cause, I was almost dumbfounded at seeing it
become suddenly so very distinct that it appeared to have ap
proached ten miles nearer our position. The next instant

368 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
there appeared to be an upheaval of earth and snow on the
summit rising before our eyes, and before we could express
an exclamation, a tall, regular tower, at least five hundred
feet in height, stood perched upon the highest peak. While
we were watching this, the tower gradually lowered itself
to half its original size, when, as if by magic, two wings sud
denly fastened themselves to its sides, and I would hardly
have been surprised at seeing the whole thing soar away.
The wings gradually shaped themselves into square projec
tions,, and we found ourselves confronted by a perfect repre
sentation of an old style meeting-house. Again, as if by
magic, the tower disappeared, but castellated turrets imme
diately sprang up, and wings, bastions, and angles attached
themselves to the sides of the structure in such a manner as
to totally change its aspect. I felt as if suddenly transport
ed to the base of some castle-crowned crag in the Old World,
and was almost expecting to see the sentry making his
rounds, when the whole thing vanished, and the mountain
had reassumed its natural shape. While regarding it and
musing on the causes, my attention was suddenly attracted
by a great commotion among the hills farther north. All
along the ridge towers and palisades were springing up and
as suddenly disappearing. Now and then one taller than its
companions would rear itself, and noiselessly glide along for
a mile or two, when, as if shaken to pieces by an earthquake,
it tumbled into an irregular mass of debris and ruin, but im
mediately reassumed some regular shape. At one time the
ridge represented a city, with its flat and gable roofs, high
and low chimneys, shot towers, church steeples, and other
prominent objects, and remained perfectly motionless for some
moments, when, as if by general consent, the different edifices
began to move about and change places, rising and settling,
now disappearing altogether, and now suddenly reappearing
somewhere else. This illusion continued, the different objects
constantly changing and dancing about, until suddenly we
saw nothing before us but the natural outline of the hill, and
detected ourselves rubbing our eyes, and endeavoring to as
sure ourselves that we were not dreaming. But no, it was
not a dream ; for, while we were looking, old Polpol was be
ginning to writhe as if in mortal agony.

A DREARY CAMP. 369
Half way down the mountain its sides began to contract
and the summit began to expand, the latter widening out like
a fan, and the former pinching up slowly, as if two great in
visible Cyclopean beings had a rope around it, and were pull
ing, one on either side, to reduce its dimensions. At length
the enormous mass of earth was almost cut in two, and the huge
upper portion appeared about to topple and fall with a thun
dering crash, when the cord loosened, and there stood old Pol
pol as the Almighty had made it. This mirage was the first
ofthe kind I had seen in the country, and greatly relieved the
monotony of the morning's journey over the tundra.
After proceeding twenty versts farther we struck the oth
er stream, seen from the hill the day before, which is known
as Polpol River. This we ascended, taking a southeast
course, and passing around the base of Polpol Peak on the
southern side. Forty versts beyond the point at which we
struck the Polpol River we were much encouraged at find
ing a Korak trail leading in a northerly direction along a
range of barren hills. This we followed, hoping to reach their
encampment before dark, but night overtook us before we
had proceeded ten versts, and was ushered in by a heavy,-
damp snow-storm. We had no alternative but to camp,
though there was not a twig within sight with which to start
our camp-fire. Fortunately, one of our drivers had an old
dilapidated polog, which he loaned us for shelter, and, by
dragging two of the sleds together, and using the ostles or
staves, we managed to erect a frame-work to suspend it to.
We had not even brought a tent with us. The third sled
was then unloaded, and we started Vassilly off with it to the
neighboring hills, to try and find enough dry sticks to pre
pare tea with. In half an hour's time he returned, having
succeeded in procuring about ten pounds of wood.
After supper we crawled into our forlorn shelter, which
was only large enough to accommodate three of us, and the
drivers, after putting on their sleeping kuklankers, and throw
ing the large hoods over their heads, drew their arms out of
the sleeves, hugging them up to their bodies for warmth, and
then perched themselves up on the sleds in a sitting posture
to while away the night.
By morning the storm had nearly abated, and Vassilly was
A2

370 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
out bright and early trying to find more sticks. Thinking it
useless to go in pursuit ofthe Koraks with our heavy sleds,
we unloaded them, and started off our drivers to follow the
trail, and endeavor to procure some deer-meat. The day was
cloudy and threatening, and at night the storm broke upon
us with increased fury. By nine o'clock our drivers had not
returned, and we were beginning to experience some anxiety
for their safety, but half an hour afterward we heard our dogs
barking in the distance, and shortly afterward they drove up
within the glare of our camp-fire, each sled burdened with
two fine, large, freshly-killed reindeer. It was a joyous sight
to us. A minute afterward seven fine-looking Koraks came
up, armed with long spears, and dressed in clean suits of rein
deer-fur, which were perfectly white with snow.
These last had come with their deer and sleds, but were
obliged to keep in the rear on account ofthe dogs. They
had picketed their deer on a neighboring hilL The storm
was raging fearfully in the mean while, and our little polog
was jammed to the utmost by. our guests, who were anxious
to see and watch those strange beings " the Americans,'' of
whom our drivers had told them. After stuffing them with
tea, and presenting each with a handful of tobacco and a
couple of needles, they left at eleven o'clock in the storm, ap
parently highly pleased with the result of their visit. Nee
dles they prize very highly, ours being so far superior to the
bone awls they generally use in sewing. But, in spite of the
slow and tedious process of making clothing with their rude
implements, their stitches are fine and even, and never give
way. Sinews of the reindeer supply them with thread. We
found these people far superior to the Gulf or settled Koraks.
Owing to their simple, nomadic life, and non-intercourse with
more civilized beings, they are ignorant of all the tricks and
deceptions of their settled brethren, and are characterized by
their generous, unsuspecting natures.
Their language and religion are the same as the others, but
their mode of living is entirely different. Some of them are
fabulously rich in reindeer. One old fellow of whom I heard
possessed no less than fifteen thousand of these animals.
They have no particular form of government, and are con
trolled altogether by the fundamental laws of nature and

THE REINDEER KORAKS. 373
justice. Each one is his own governor, and, in case of mal
feasance, is only answerable to the person injured, who has
the choice of selecting his own course of action. They are
firm believers in the laws of retaliation. If one man com
mits murder, he is very apt to be murdered in turn by the
friends ofthe deceased. Sometimes the matter rests here, but
often family feuds are continued through generations. They
are very jealous of their own rights, and are careful not to
infringe upon the rights of others.
I said there is no established form of government, but I
will except a certain influence wielded by the wealthy over
those who are dependent upon them for food and clothing.
These latter, having no deer of their own, join the household
of some rich man, and, in return for his food and clothing, as
sist in guarding and taking care of the herds of their lord.
Where one man owns many deer, he keeps them separated in
lots of from one thousand to twelve hundred, scattered over
the country, so that they can procure abundant food. The
reindeer is all in all to these people. They furnish them with
food, raiment, transportation, and shelter. Their sinews sup
ply them with thread, as above stated, and their bones and
antlers supply material for the manufacture of numerous lit
tle implements necessary to their mode of living, and even
with weapons, when they are unable to procure steel or iron
through trade.
The antlers are also used in the manufacture of some of
their light sleds or " sonkees." These sleds are very pretty
and graceful little structures, and some of them are fine speci
mens of workmanship. The long, light runners, raised in a
beautiful curve at the prow, are usually made of birch. Over
these are from six to twelve arches, uniting the two, and made
sometimes of wood, but frequently from reindeer antlers care
fully smoothed and polished. Resting on the arches.is the
light body, with rounded back and curved arms like a chair,
held together by rounds, all carefully made and polished,
and the whole neatly lashed together at the joints by long,
narrow strips of black whalebone.
Two deer are used with each sled, harnessed in the "same
manner as those used on the Ajan post-road; and the rider
carries a light pointed staff, with which to goad them on.

374 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNO W- SHOES. .
They have another sled, large, heavy, and comparatively
clumsy, on which they transport their luggage. As they
journey slowly while traveling with their herds and house
hold, these answer every purpose.
Each of the deer the Koraks brought us were ready dressed,
and would weigh from eighty to one hundred pounds. Though
most acceptable under the circumstances, we could not but
wish that we had been able to procure dried fish for our dogs
instead. However, our men had also procured three days'
supply of fish and seal-fat, which, with the deer, would sup
port our teams five days and a part of the sixth. The great
advantage offish for road use is its lightness and convenience
for packing. We estimated that twenty pounds of dry fish
would go as far as a deer weighing seventy pounds.
It was a fearful night, and the wind howled and swept over
our unprotected position with such fury that we would hard
ly have been surprised at waking up and finding ourselves at
the foot of the mountain. All night long the snow drifted
through innumerable rents and holes in our polog, and upon
awaking we found a coating two inches in depth all over us.
It was the 1st of May, and such a one I had never dreamed
of seeing. Macrae and I tried to picture to ourselves joyous
parties robed in light summer costumes, decorated with gay
ribbons, and wearing wreaths of freshly-plucked flowers, pick
ing their way over green meadows and through shady groves
to the rendezvous at the May-pole. We tried to conceive of
the soft, balmy atmosphere, clear blue heavens, glowing sun
light, and gentle breezes laden with the fragrance of flowers,
with which all the rest of the world was blessed at that mo
ment, but could not think it possible. Blast followed blast
in rapid succession, wailing, shrieking, and roaring as if bent
upon the destruction of every thing living that came in its
way. I raised myself partly from my bearskin, and, putting
my eye to the polog, peeped out ; but what a sight ! Though
late in the day, it was quite dark, but sufficiently light for me
to distinguish a chaotic mass of whirling snow rushing and
tearing by, obscuring every thing in its madness. Only one
object was visible, but that only at intervals, though only six
feet distant. There, perched upon a sled, silent and motion
less as if in death, was the fur-clad figure of one of our drivers,

NIGHT AND DAY IN A POORGA. 375
against whom, on the windward side, a large snow-drift had
accumulated. I gave a shudder, and dropped back on my
bed. My watch had run down during the night, and we
could not tell the time of day. Nevertheless, Vassilly crawled
out and endeavored to make a fire, but, utterly failing in this,
crawled back into the polog with a dried fish, which we di
vided among us.
We could not tell how long we had slept, nor could we
think of moving under the circumstances. There were no
signs of the poorga abating for hours. Macrae and I amused
ourselves smoking and chatting as long as we could, for, in
spite of our night's sleep, we both experienced strong feel
ings of drowsiness, and it was with the greatest difficulty we
could keep our eyes open. But we knew that if we gave way
to it we would pass a sleepless night, and, by mutual con
sent, whenever one of us showed signs of napping, the other
punched him, and tried to enter into conversation with him.
We continued this for several hours, when, much to our grat
ification, the wind lulled, and one of our drivers came and re
ported that the storm had subsided. We had eaten nothing
except the small piece of dried fish since the previous night,
so immediately built a fire to have supper before retiring.
The sun was just setting, though it must have been nearly 9
o'clock at night, the days were so long.
After supper we started back for the polog, when one of
the drivers asked us if we did not wish to start on. To this
we replied that " we would not go until morning." After
looking at us curiously for a moment, he said, " But it is
morning." We thought him crazy; but the others siding
with him, we referred to the compass, and, from the bearing
of the sun, found that it was rising instead of setting. We
had been keeping ourselves awake all night long. The days
were so long at this time that the twilight continued all
through the night. We had perceived that it was quite
dark, but attributed it to the storm.
Availing ourselves of the lull, we immediately renewed our
journey, taking a northerly course by the compass. Though
perfectly ignorant of the country, and without guides, we felt
confident, sooner or later, of striking either the Myan or one
of its tributaries. Shortly after starting the storm revived,

376 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
but this time the wind came from the south and blew against
our backs, so that we experienced no great inconvenience from
it until in the afternoon, when we struck a tributary of the
Myan, and followed its course in a northwest direction.
For two hours we followed the stream, when the wind be
came so strong that we were obliged to take shelter behind
a large thicket of alder-brush. A glorious fire was soon roar
ing, and the tea-kettle lent its merry song to cheer the sur
roundings, after which Vassilly proceeded to prepare dinner.
Suddenly Macrae threw down his pipe, and, drawing his
sheath-knife, started for the sleds.
" I will be cook to-night," he said. " We will have a reg
ular Rocky Mountain feast, and if you don't say it is good, I
pledge myself never again to don the apron or wield a toast
ing-fork." "Mac" had crossed the Rocky Mountains in early days, and
had a peculiar appreciation of good things, so I knew I would
not be disappointed. In a moment he returned with the whole
side of a deer, coated with rich fat, and, after cutting a pronged
stick and spitting the meat, proceeded to roast it. Soon the
rich juice began to stream out and drop in the hot ashes, but
a tea-cup judiciously placed caught most of it, which was,
from time to time, poured back upon the smoking ribs. The
aroma alone would almost appease one's appetite. Finally,
after the long and careful process was ended, dinner was an
nounced in a triumphant tone, and we began the assault.
Though " sans" salt, " sans':' pepper, " sans" plates, and, in
fact, " sans every thing" except the roast and our sheath-
' knives, I think I never before enjoyed a more delicious mor
sel. Its effect was astonishing ; neither wind nor snow troub
led us any longer, and our own feelings were so much elated
that we held a mass meeting of two on the spot, and unani
mously decided to call the place " Roast-rib Camp."
Toward night we continued our journey, but, after pro
ceeding five versts, were again forced to take shelter. At
half past 3 o'clock the next morning we were again on the
road, having a clear sky and bright sun to cheer us on. At
10 o'clock we arrived at the junction of the river* with the
* We afterward learned that Kennan had named this stream the "Return
River" on his journey northward.

THE ORLOFKA RIVER. 377
Myan, and then took a northerly course down that stream
through a narrow valley bordered by barren hills. The im
mediate banks of the stream were wooded with poplar, wil
low, and laurel, but no larch was visible.
Up to this time we had found the snow hard and crusted,
and the traveling excellent, but this day at noon the sun was
so hot as to melt the crust, and our sleds sank so deep in the
snow that we were obliged to halt for three hours for the
crust to re-form. One of our drivers was nearly blinded by
the glare, and we all suffered considerably. My nose, of
which I had not taken proper care, became blistered by ex
posure, and not six hours afterward, when the weather be
came cold again, it had the misfortune to freeze. The effect
on that organ of these two opposite agents can be more
readily imagined than described. These natives use tobacco-
juice as a remedy for snow-blindness, which, though exceed
ingly severe, is very effectual.
The next morning we started early, continuing all day
down the Myan with firm snow underneath. At sunset we
came to the mouth of the Orlofka River, a stream flowing
from the west. At this point Kennan, in his exploration,
left the Myan, and took a direct route for Anadyrsk, his dog-
food having given out.
A few versts farther we came to a wooded country, where
we saw scattering trees of birch, spruce, and larch. The lat
ter were tall, straight, and durable, and are admirably suited
to telegraph purposes. Here the snow was deep and soft,
having been sheltered from the winter winds, and we were
obliged to resort to our snow-shoes to break a road. After
ward we crossed to the eastern side of the river, and found
open tundra, upon which we traveled until 10 o'clock P.M.,
and camped. During the day we had seen bear-tracks, and
a few geese and swans flew over our heads going north, all
of which indicated the proximity of spring.
East of our camp was a broad, fine valley, extending in a
southeast direction. It was so large that we knew it must
be drained by a river of no mean size, and therefore con
cluded that it was the Olgan, a large stream Macrae and
Arnold had descended while approaching Anadyrsk during
their long journey with the Tchuctchus. We now congrat-

378 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
ulated ourselves upon having a known country ahead of
us. After proceeding eight versts from camp, on the morning
of May 5 th we struck a long belt of thick woods, which we
were forced to penetrate, though it was a difficult task, the
snow being deep and soft, and in places we had to cut a way
for our sleds through the underbrush. Suddenly we emerged
upon a large stream about three hundred feet wide, which
Macrae at once declared not to be the Olgan. It was larger
than the branch we had been descending, so we at once de
cided that this was the main Myan, and, to distinguish the
two, called the other the Abasa River, by which name it was
afterward recognized. In descending to the ice we started
up a pair of swans of very large size, and also found fresh
bear-tracks near a small patch of open water, where Bruin
had been watching for an opportunity to catch his morning
meal. Rabbits and ptarmigan were .also very abundant ; we
saw large numbers of both while passing through the woods.
But what astonished us most was a fresh trail made by two
dog-sleds going up the Myan in a southeast direction. We
at first thought that some of the Anadyrsk people had gone
in this direction in search of Koraks to procure deer-meat,
but our drivers assured us that they never came to this part
of the country, as they can obtain deer much nearer in other
directions. Our next thought was that Major Abasa had ar
rived at Anadyrsk, and, being anxious on account of our long
absence, had sent these sleds out in search of us. But the
fact of their ascending this stream instead of the' other in
duced us to believe that this could not be the case. Finally,
we decided that the major himself, not being able to delay
his departure from Anadyrsk longer on account of warm
weather, had chosen this route for his return journey, in the
hope of meeting us, and that he had ascended the wrong
branch. This appeared to us most probable, and we would
have turned back with the hope of overtaking him, but knew
it would be useless with our exhausted dogs ; besides, there
was no time to be lost, as we had barely food enough to en
able us to reach our destination. Following this trail as a
guide, we renewed our journey along the bed of the river.
Both banks were thickly wooded with larch and spruce, and

PROSPECT BLUFF. 379
gave shelter to quantities of game. In one place a fox had
the audacity to seat himself on the river bank, in plain view,
and bark at our dogs as they were passing by. He had evi
dently never been disturbed by hunters.
At 1.30 P.M. we halted two hours, to give our dogs rest
and to escape the heat of the day, but at 3 o'clock we were
obliged to renew our journey, there being no prospect of its
growing cold. The snow was deep and water-soaked, and
traveling very difficult. We all took to snow-shoes to beat
a trail and lighten the sleds, but even then our dogs could
go no faster than a walk. At this rate our dog-food would
give out long before we could procure other. Fortunately,
at that time the sun did not set until 9 o'clock, and we could
see well enough to travel until 10 o'clock, so we endeavored
to make up for slow progress by long hours.
This day, though fifteen hours on the road, we did not ac
complish more than thirty versts. The river was beginning
to open in many places, and every half hour during the day
we encountered fresh bear-tracks, but did not catch sight of
one of the animals. An eagle also made its appearance, and
one of those horrible little pests, a musquito, buzzed around
my head for a few moments. We camped at 9.30 P.M. on
a small island, Sunday, May 6th.
It thawed all night, for the first time since winter set in,
and we found it impossible to travel on the river, so left the
trail we had been following, and traveled upon the left bank
of the stream, through a fine forest of larch. At 1 o'clock
P.M. we reached a point where a bold cliff terminates ab
ruptly on the river, and stopped to rest the dogs and cook
dinner. After dinner I climbed the cliff to take bearings of
different prominent landmarks, and to obtain a better idea
of the country we were traversing. The valley of the Myan
at this point is about forty versts wide, and the whole surface
seemed to be a continued forest of larch-trees.
My eyes had become so accustomed of late to the barren
tundras we had been traversing, that this sight was a most
refreshing one, and, in a telegraphic point of view, perfectly
lovely. Mr. Kennan had found the banks of the Anadyr
River perfectly barren of trees, but here were poles enough
to supply a line from Ghijigha to Behring's Sea, and to keep

380 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
it in repair for any length of time. From soundings I had
made, from time to time, through holes in the ice, we knew
there was sufficient water for rafting purposes. We named
this place "Prospect Bluff." The course of the river was
due north magnetic.
At 2 P.M. we resumed our journey on snow-shoes over a
rolling, lightly-wooded country on the west bank of the river.
Just as we were crossing a low elevation, Macrae cried out,
in a joyous tone, " Laluma ! Laluma !" pointing to the north
east. Looking in the direction, I saw a high conical peak,
barely perceptible in the distance, which Macrae recognized
as an old friend. For many days during their Tchuctchu
journeys, this peak, which is about six thousand feet high,
loomed above him. Its appearance at this time was very
opportune, as it enabled us to discover our whereabouts.
We camped at dark, having made but thirty-five versts dur
ing the day.
We had now but one night's food left for our dogs, but
hoped in two* more days to reach our destination. We had
fed the deer-meat to the dogs as soon as possible, in order to
lighten the sleds, and now our own stock of food was getting
very low. In addition to this, the late exceedingly difficult
traveling in wet, heavy snow, most ofthe time on snow-shoes,
together. with the lack of sleep (our allowance being usually
about three hours out ofthe twenty-four), and our eyes weak
ened from snow-blindness, made us all long for the goal. We
were all so badly tanned as to be hardly recognizable as
white men.
The next morning at 3 o'clock, just as we were about to
start from camp, we heard a noise back of us, and soon saw
three empty sleds approaching. They proved to be the ones
whose trail we had been following, and the drivers informed
us that they had been sent in search of us from Anadyrsk by
the major, who had arrived at that place three days before
their departure. We had passed each other near the mouth
of the Abasa River. They had been traveling day and night
to overtake us after discovering our trail. We then delayed
our departure two hours, to give them and their dogs an op
portunity to rest. Their animals having eaten nothing for
twenty-four hours, we also gave them our last fish.

ANADYR VALLEY— CLOSE OF JOURNEY. 381
We attached these fresh teams to our own nartas, and sent
the old dogs ahead with empty sleds to break a road, but
soon overtook them. Ten versts from camp we reached a
point where another bold bluff terminates on the river, which
is here very narrow, and a verst below we struck the mouth
of the Olgan, seventy versts below where we expected to find
it. The bluff we called " Telegraph Bluff," it being the most
suitable point we had found for stretching a wire across the
river. Here was an old deserted hut, and the immediate
neighborhood was densely wooded with fine larch; but be
low the mouth of the Olgan the timber ended. From a
neighboring elevation we could trace the river for miles to
the north. Its course was exceedingly winding.
Being out of food, from Telegraph Bluff we struck imme
diately across the range of hills that border the valley of the
Myan on the west, and took a northwesterly course over a
large barren tundra toward the settlement of Crepast, which,
with two or three other villages, compose Anadyrsk. This
tundra is in the valley ofthe Anadyr River. From the range
we could see the river itself winding about in the dim dis
tance to the north and west. Beyond the river, the tundra
continued until it faded from sight on the distant horizon.
Our journey across the tundra was long and tedious, the plain
being uneven, and covered with deep snow, and dotted with
patches of laurel brush.
At 3 o'clock on the morning ofthe 8th of May, just as the.
sun was rising, we entered Crepast, completely exhausted,
having been twenty-two hours on the road since leaving
camp. I only waited long enough to get a fresh team, and
pushed on for Markova, fifteen versts farther, where the ma
jor was stopping, leaving Macrae and Vassilly to get some
rest and sleep, and to come on at their leisure.
Our journey had been a very severe one, but our discov
eries had far exceeded our expectations, and pointed to the
Myan and Abasa Rivers as the natural course of the line.

REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

CHAPTER XXVI.
Crepast. — Early History of Anadyrsk. — Deshnew. — Simeon Motora. — Chu-
ansees and Ukagirs. — Expeditions against the Tchuctchus. — Pawlutzki. —
Native Legends. — Present Inhabitants. — Markova. — Programme of Work.
— Instructions ofthe Ispravnik. — Koschevin. — Departure of Major Abasa.
— Newfoundland Dog "Cook." — His Siberian Experiences. — Spring Sup
plies. — Expeditions to purchase Deer.— Timber Belt. — Grouse and Grouse-
traps. — Our opportune Arrival. — Upper Anadyr. — Protoks and Islands.
— Myan and Vaccarana Protoks. — Purchasing Huts. — Vetkas. — Esqui
maux Pup "Nik." — Geese and Swans. — Carbasses. — Native Summer
Costume. — Cornelius. — Return of Meat-seekers. — Off for the Myan. — In
structions to Koschevin. — Dangerous Ice-traveling. — Building Station. —
Discouraging News. — Goose-hunting. — Arrival of Priest. — Tolstekhin's
Sufferings. — Fates against us. — Cutting Poles. — Break-up of the Myan.
— Departure for Markova. — Water-fowl. — Perpetual Day. — Midnight
Sunset. — Thunder. — Contrast. — Regularity of Nature. — Break-up of the
Anadyr. — Grandeur. — Relic of Paganism. — Flood. — Starvation. — Dog
eat Dog. — Clubbing Rabbits. — Constructing Rafts. — Afloat.
Ceepast is situated on the south bank of the Anadyr Riv
er, upon a bank about thirty feet above the level ofthe river.
It contains about a dozen inferior log houses and " umbars,"
or store-rooms, the latter erected on posts about six feet above
the ground. The name " Crepast" is Russian, and means
" fort," this being the location of the original Russian settle
ment on the Anadyr, made by one Deshnew and two hun
dred and ten followers, who ascended the Anadyr in the year
1649, and built a small stockaded fort here.
Deshnew had started the previous year with three vessels
from Colema, on the Arctic, to sail around the eastern extrem
ity of Asia, and in October ofthe same year, two of his ves
sels having been lost, his own was driven ashore near the
mouth of the Anadyr, where he wintered, and, as already
stated, ascended the river the following summer. While as
cending the river, he met a tribe called " Anauli," a branch
of the Tchuctchus, whom he endeavored to force to pay trib
ute, but they resisted, and, in an engagement that followed,
were nearly all killed.

CREPAST— THE TCHUCTCHUS. 383
In 1650, a Cossack, named Simeon Motora, effected the first
overland journey from Colema to Crepast, after which time
communication was kept up, and a garrison regularly estab
lished. By degrees, a number of the inhabitants from Cole
ma settled here, and were re-enforced, from time to time, by
members of the Chuansee and Ukagir tribes, who, having be
come impoverished by the loss of their deer through disease
or warfare with the Tchuctchu, were obliged to settle down
and subsist upon fish. At length the settlements of Marko
va and Pokorukna sprang up also on the Anadyr, the one fif
teen and the other thirty-five versts above Crepast. The
three combined are called Anadyrsk, though at the present
day Markova takes the lead of the others.
Very little is known of the early history of this section
that is perfectly reliable. The inhabitants have accounts of
battles with the Tchuctchus that have been handed down
from generation to generation, and exaggerated with each
repetition, until they have become now enormous affairs.
From " Muller" we gather that, in the year 1710, three Cos
sacks, who had been at Anadyrsk, reported to the "Way-
wode Dorosei Trauernicht" at Yakoutsk that, in the year
1701, some of the Ukagirs, who were tributary to the Rus
sians, complained to the commander at Anadyrsk that they
were often attacked by the Tchuctchus, and requested that
some Russians might be sent to assist them in subduing their
enemies. A party of twenty-four Russians and one hundred
and ten Ukagirs proceeded to the sea-coast, and, finding thir
teen habitations of Tchuctchu, called on them to surrender
and to pay tribute. Upon their refusing, an engagement en
sued, in which ten Tchuctchus were killed, and several men,
together with the women and children, were taken prisoners.
The men, rather than be captives, killed each other. Some
escaped, however, and succeeded in raising a force of three
hundred men at " Tchucotskoi Noss," who opposed the Rus
sians in an engagement, and lost near two hundred slain.
The next day three thousand Tchuctchus attacked the Rus
sians, the fight lasting all day, and lost large numbers in slain.
The Russians and Ukagirs had only ten wounded. The Tchuc
tchus were armed with bows, slings, and spears. The Tchuc
tchus then surrounded their enemies, and kept them belea-

384 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
guered for five days, at the end of which time they succeeded
in making their escape, and returned in safety to Anadyrsk.
Twenty-nine years later, in 1730, Captain Pawlutzki ar
rived at Crepast, and the following year led an expedition,
comprising two hundred and fifteen Russians, one hundred
and sixty Koraks, and sixty Ukagirs, against the Tchuctchus.
They struck north to the Arctic coast, which they reached
after two months' travel at the rate of ten versts a day.
They then proceeded eastward along the coast for two weeks,
and, on the 7th of June, met a large band of Tehuctchus, who
refused obedience, and were defeated, with what loss it is
not stated. After eight days' rest, they pushed on eastward
for about two weeks, and on the 30th of June defeated anoth
er band. From this point, after resting three days, they ad
vanced to " Tchucotskoi Noss," which they had to cross to
reach Anadyr Gulf. At this place they defeated and killed
a large number of Tchuctchus, but could not subjugate them.
Among the spoils were found several articles that were
taken from Affanassa Shestakova during the previous year,
when he was slain, and his party defeated on Penjinsk Gulf.
The whole loss of the Russians and their allies in this expe
dition was three Russians, one Ukagirj and five Koraks killed.
They returned to Crepast October 21st.
In addition to these accounts, the natives told me that, a
good many years ago (probably since Muller's time), the
Tchuctchus advanced on Crepast in very large numbers, and
put the Russians to flight, driving them to a hill two days'
journey distant, on the direct route to Penjina, called "Ruski
Khrebet." Here the Tchuctchus again attacked them, kill
ing a great many, and thoroughly defeating the remainder.
This, if true, all occurred earlier than the recollection of any
of the natives I saw, and there were some old men among
them. It is certain there has been no garrison at Crepast for
a great many years, nor are there any traces of the old fort
to be seen at the present time.
The present inhabitants are mostly descendants from those
early pioneers, and, though they class themselves under the
different heads of Chuansees, Ukagirs, Lamutkas, and Rus
sians, they have all for so long a time adopted the Russian
language that they have forgotten their own, and it is im-

MARKOVA.

385

possible to distinguish the members of the different tribes
from each other.
Markova was one of the least interesting, unattractive vil
lages I had seen, and contained not more than half a dozen
mean log houses, together with a small church ; but, on the

VIEW IN MARKOVA.

morning of the 8th of May, when I drove into town, I was so
thoroughly worn out that any place would have been accept
able. We drove up to the house of an old Chuansee named
Avaram, where Messrs. Dodd (Kennan's companion), and Rob
inson, Harder, and Smith, of Macrae's party, were stopping.
It being early in the morning, I found them all asleep.
As soon as I aroused them, and had made inquiries con
cerning the major and ispravnik, who were in another house,
I threw myself down on a bed to sleep, but, from utter ex
haustion, was unable to do so. Owing to the lateness ofthe
season, little time was to be lost, therefore the major and is
pravnik decided to start for Ghijigha the next day.
It was my intention to proceed to the mouth ofthe Olgan
on the Myan, with native laborers, as soon as the necessary
preparations could be made, for the purpose of cutting poles
to* raft down the Myan and Anadyr rivers with the spring
floods, for distribution along the Anadyr, that stream being
-wholly without timber. By so doing, should the Company's
vessels arrive at the mouth of the river in good season, we
could immediately" commence the construction ofthe line;
B2

386 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
otherwise we might be delayed another year, as the sum
mers are very short, and nothing could be done on that por
tion ofthe line until poles had been rafted.
Before his departure, the ispravnik assembled all the in
habitants, with their different starastas, and instructed the
latter to supply us with all the assistance we should require,
whether of men for labor, or dogs for transportation during
winter, and also placed, subject to my orders, Koschevin, a
Cossack sergeant, who had great influence and authority
over the natives, together with half a dozen other Cossacks.
Invested with these powers, and with near fifty able-bodied
men to call upon, we entertained strong hopes of being able
to accomplish a good deal of labor by summer.
At this season of the year, it is better to travel nights, to
avoid the heat of day ; so on the 9th of May, late in the after
noon, the major and ispravnik, with Messrs. Dodd and Rob
inson, and the Newfoundland dog " Cook," took their leave ;
the latter had a sled to himself, like the others of the party,
his feet having become very sore from the effects of the jour
ney up the Anadyr with Kennan.
Poor " Cook !" his lot had been a hard one, and many a bat
tle he had to fight to convince these dogs that he was as good
as they. All the way up the Anadyr he had been fastened
behind one of the sleds, and all the other dogs, whenever an
opportunity presented itself, whether through jealousy of
Cook's size, or supposing him to be some distant relative of
Bruin, used to attack him and give him pretty harsh treat
ment. Upon his arrival at Markova, he had to fight every
dog in the place, either singly or in troops, and it was not un
til he had killed one of them, and badly injured several oth
ers, that they began to respect him. Upon his arrival at
Ghijigha and the intervening towns he undoubtedly had to
go through it all again. Before his departure from Marko
va he had become thoroughly Siberianized ; he would sub
mit as knowingly as any of the others to the harness, and al
ways pulled his share. His special task was to haul wo8d
and casks of water from the town well — a hole in the ice of
the river near by. At first he did not approve of howling,
but towards the last, whenever the dogs of the village start
ed their nightly choruses, old Cook's voice could be heard

ON THE UPPER ANADYR. 387
above all the others, and was easily recognizable, from the
clumsy manner in which he tried to imitate them. Cook's
driver didn't relish the idea of being a dog's coachman.
Our supplies for the spring were limited to tea, sugar, and
black or rye flour, which we had brought with us from Ghiji
gha. Of the two former articles we had an abundance, both
for ourselves and what natives we should employ, but flour
Was comparatively scarce. These people, however, rarely
use bread, reindeer meat and fish being their chief support.
Fish we could not obtain at all ; our main reliance was, there
fore, upon reindeer, which we hoped to procure in sufficient
quantities for our purpose from the Koraks or Tchuctchus.
Of these we would require a large number to sustain the
workmen, and there being a great scarcity of dog-food, we
would also have to use deer-meat to. feed our dogs with.
To obtain the necessary amount, the day after the major's
departure, May 10th, I sent Koschevin, the Cossack, off to the
Koraks, on the Upper Myan, with fifteen nartas, and a suffi
cient quantity of " chilketski" — tobacco — to purchase eighty
deer, and also instructed him to try and persuade the Ko
raks to move their herds down near the mouth of the Olgan,
where the field-party would be at work. Fearing lest Kos
chevin might fail in procuring the necessary number of deer,
and to provide against such a possibility, I sent Tolstekhin,
another Cossack, the following day in a different direction,
also to procure meat, knowing we would require all that
could be purchased.
By this time all the able-bodied men of the place were ab
sent, having accompanied the Cossacks, and we were com
pelled to postpone our departure to the Myan until some of
them should return.
Markova is situated upon the east bank of the Markova
River, about half a mile from its junction with the Anadyr.
A belt of timber, that extends a mile or two from these riv
ers on both sides, furnishes material and fuel for the inhab
itants, and also shelters the town from the fury ofthe winds
outside. These woods are the resort of thousands of ptar
migan or grouse during the winter months; all around the
settlement the woods were spotted with them. The natives
have but few guns, and rarely use them on account of the

388 • REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
scarcity of ammunition, consequently these birds are rarely
disturbed, though hundreds are trapped daily, in a ,species of
dead-fall like the fox-trap described on a preceding page.
These traps, being light, are set on top of the snow ; they are
baited with the young buds- of the " topolova" -tree, of which
grouse are very fond. Up to the time of our arrival the na
tives had been sustaining both themselves and dogs chiefly
upon grouse or ptarmigan, but the warm weather that im
mediately followed, and consequent thawing of the snow,
made their traps useless, since they could not keep them set
for any length of time. The people were then obliged to
seek food from neighboring tribes. Our arrival proved to be
very opportune for them. We furnished them with the to
bacco necessary'to purchase meat, without which they would-
have had to depend upon the generosity of their more savage
brethren. The Anadyr River, above the mouth of the Myan, flows
through a vast level tundra, quite low, and cut up by innu
merable channel-ways or "protoks," as the Russians call
them. Many of these are dry except during the spring
floods, though large numbers have water in them the year
round. In many places, for miles inland from the main
stream, the whole country is a succession of large islands,
separated from each other by an intricate network of these
protoks. Markova and Crepast are both situated upon isl
ands. For a good many miles above Markova, and as far
down as Crepast, the main Anadyr flows nearly due east, but
at Crepast it changes its course to the northeast, and makes
a large elbow far to the north, flowing again nearly due
south until it meets the waters of the Myan. The land com
prised within this elbow is also a large island, there being
two protoks running from the Anadyr near Crepast to the
Myan. One of these joins the Myan about forty versts above
its mouth, at a point called "Vaccarana," and is known as
the Vaccarana Protok. The other, which joins the Myan far
ther up, is called the Myan Protok. Kennan, in making his
journey to Anadyr Bay, followed the Vaccarana Protok, and
by so doing, instead of following the river, saved two days'
journey. In addition to rafting poles down the river, we also wished

, HUTS.— BOATS— COSTUMES. 389
to raft ten or twelve " yourts," to be erected at convenient
distances from each other along the river banks for winter
shelter while traveling. With this in view, Lieutenant Mac
rae and myself took dogs and proceeded up the river thirty
versts from Markova, to examine a number of " letnia pova-
rinie," or summer huts, the owners had offered us for sale.
These had been constructed by the natives for use during
the fishing season. Having selected sixteen of the best for
our purpose, we called on our return at the settlement of Pa-
korukua, an insignificant little collection of log huts.
The only objects that interested us in the place were sev
eral very small boats, called " vetkas," that had been left ex
posed on the river bank by the thawing of the snow. These
•were so very small and light that we could not think it pos
sible for a man to ride in them. Old Avarani, my driver,
assured us, however, that, though it required great skill and
long practice to handle them, yet they were frequently used
for long journeys where speed was required. They were es
pecially made for the pursuit of wild reindeer while swim
ming the rivers during their annual migrations in the fall,
from the cold, barren tundras north of the river to the moun
tainous regions south, and also in the spring, when they re
turn to the northern tundras to escape the persecutions of
the millions of musquitoes that infest the woodlands. These
pests are equally as abundant on the tundra, but the strong
winds make them less troublesome. The vetkas we saw
were fifteen feet long and one foot wide, flat-bottomed, and
made of three boards hewn out with an axe. The bottom
board was three fourths of an inch thick, and pointed at both
ends. Each side consists of a single board from eight to ten
inches wide, and not more than one fourth of an inch in thick
ness. They were sewed to the bottom board, and to each
other at the ends, with the sinews of deer, the seams being
carefully sealed with pitch. Two light sticks in the middle
of the boat keep the thin sides spread, and prevent their
warping. The rider sits flat upon the bottom, and propels
himself with a light double-bladed paddle, dipping one blade
on one side and the other on the opposite alternately. Un
der each vetka lay the paddle, and a light spear about twelve
feet in length, used in spearing the deer.

390 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
While here I was presented with a fine Esquimaux pup,
that I called " Nik" after the giver, whose surname was " Nik
olai." But the native became much alarmed at my giving
his name to the dog, and declared that some calamity would
befall him if it was not changed. When, however, I assured
him that in America we frequently named dogs after men, he
became perfectly satisfied.
On the way back to Markova we saw a few geese and
swans, and thousands of grouse. Some of the latter were
standing on the open tundra asleep, and the snow, which was
drifting with a light wind, had covered them until nothing
but their heads were visible. Others were completely bur
ied, but broke from their shelter when we approached.
For the transportation of their families, dogs, and house--
hold effects in summer, the people of this section use a large
boat capable of carrying a dozen persons, called " carbass."
These " carbasses" are simply log " dug-outs," spread by heat
and water, with two hewn boards fastened upon each side to
increase their size. The sides and bottom are fastened to
gether with sinews, and the cracks chinked with ground-moss.
These craft are' considered very unsafe in rough water, as the
moss sometimes washes out ; but, for want of better, the peo
ple make use of them. During the delay in Markova, we pro
vided ourselves with summer costumes such as the natives
wear, made of light, dressed buckskin, carefully tanned and
softened, and smoked thoroughly on one side, to prevent
them from stiffening after becoming wet. The chief article
of the summer dress is the " comlea," or " comleaka," a long
shirt, closely fitting about the wrists and neck, and having a
small hood to fit closely over the head, merely leaving the
face exposed. This is to protect the head from musquitoes.
In addition to this are buckskin pants ; mits, fitting tightly
around the wrists; and boots of the same material, soled
with thick bearskin. Besides these boots, intended for dry
weather, they have others made of seal or horse hide, which,
if kept carefully greased, are waterproof. Equipped with
these and musquito nets, and having manufactured buckskin
caps for ourselves (the natives wear none in summer), we felt
in condition to defy any number of musquitoes that might
assail us. I give, on the opposite page, two actual portraits

LAMUTKA PORTRAITS.

391

IVAN EBMEGHKOFF.

of-Lamutkas in their
summer costume.
Day by day the na
tives began to return
from their journeys,
having been generally
successful in procuring
meat for their families,
though many failed ut
terly. Having previously
made arrangements
with Koschevin and
Avarani for the con
struction of two " car-
basses" and a fish-seine,
to be ready by the time the river opened, and after leaving*
instructions for the former to have the sixteen huts we had
purchased taken down, and rafted through the Myan Protok
to the Myan River, where we would meet them with our
rafts, on the 22d of May we took our departure, with all
our stores and baggage, together with sixteen men and ten
nartas. Other men were to come on afterwards, and bring
seal-thongs with which to lash our rafts together, as we had
no augurs or any ofthe
implements generally
used in constructing
rafts. Thinking it pos
sible that we might not
see Koschevin again be
fore winter, I also left or
ders for him to forward
twelve nartas to the
mouth of the river, as
soon as the next winter
roads should open, to
bring us up in case of ac
cident to the vessel des
tined for that point.
We arrived at Crepast

FEADOR OUYAN.

392 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
during a heavy snow-storm, by which we were delayed until
evening, when we again pushed on, traveling all night and
until 3 o'clock the next afternoon before reaching the mouth
of the Olgan. Traveling was exceedingly bad, particularly
on the Myan River, where a "number of our sleds broke
through the rotten ice. In places it was very exciting trav
eling. Each sled had to cross the river separately, with the
ice bending and cracking beneath it. Very often, had it not
been for the speed of the frightened dogs, we would have
inevitably gone down with the current, for behind each sled
was a long train of open water where the ice had given way
beneath its weight just as the sled was passing. On the road
we shot our first goose.
The following day all hands went to work constructing a
large log house for shelter, which was also to be used after
ward as a store-house. This would have been completed in
five days, but on the 26th of May two nartas arrived from
Koschevin bringing only twelve deer, sufficient to feed our
dogs but two days, and the discouraging intelligence that no
more could be procured on the Myan. The natives, though
perfectly willing, could not drive their deer to the Olgan, as
it was the breeding season, and the does could not undergo
the journey. He had gone, however, in search of some Ko
raks living to the westward of Penjina. Up to this time noth
ing had been seen or heard of the Cossack Tolstekhin.
Finding that we would be unable to sustain the dogs here,
Monday, 28th of May, I sent them all back to Anadyrsk with
Harder, whom I instructed to bring all the laborers he could
procure, together with a carbass to enable us to cross the in
tervening rivers and protoks, should we be compelled, from
want of food, to vacate the place and return to Markova.
Hitherto, in order to save the deer-meat for our dogs, we had
succeeded in shooting enough geese to sustain the whole
party. It was fine sport indeed. Every night, at 11 o'clock,
it being perfectly light, and that being the flying-time of the
geese, we would strap on our snow-shoes and cross over the
Myan to some open swamps beyond. After taking our
stands in different places, whenever a flock or single birds
flew over in easy range, the fusillade would commence, and
by 1 o'clock we would have as many birds as we could stao--

THE FATES AGAINST US. 393
ger under. But soon the geese began to seek other patches
of water, and the ice on the Myan became so unsafe that we
could no longer venture across.
On the 29th the Markova priest — a Yakout, who possesses
all the vices of the rest of the brotherhood in Eastern Siberia
— arrived with fifteen deer, and stated that Koschevin was
in Markova. He had procured twenty deer, but, feeling sat
isfied that we would be obliged to return to that place, had
retained five there for our sustenance during the spring flood.
Tolstekhin had also returned to Markova without success.
In addition to his disappointment, the poor fellow had under
gone severe hardship. He and his companions were four clays
without food, except a small piece of seal - thong they had
boiled up for one meal, and their dogs had had nothing for
five days.
The fates seemed to be arrayed against us. In the first
place, many of the inhabitants were in very destitute circum
stances, or unfitted by disease for labor, so that we could not
procure more than a handful to accompany us to the Myan
without depriving many families of their only support. As
it happened, I was obliged to send three of the men back to
try and provide for their families, not being able to supply
them with the meat I had promised them. Another obsta
cle was some misunderstanding that had arisen between the
neighboring Tchuctchus and Chuansees with regard to sup
plying the inhabitants with deer- meat, which resulted in
their refusing to render any assistance whatever. And then,
in addition to not being able to procure deer for dog-food, we
failed in securing sufficient seal-thong with which to construct
our rafts. It was evident we would have to vacate the Myan,
and, not wishing to do so without accomplishing something,
we put all the men at work cutting and piling up telegraph
poles for future use.
May 30th, Harder returned from Markova without having
secured laborers, but he had brought a carbass with him to
one ofthe largest protoks we would have to cross on our re
turn journey. He reported that the rivers were all about to
break up, and that, unless we returned immediately, we would
not be able to do so at all.
June 1st, Macrae and Harder started for Markova with our

394 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
baggage and what few stores we had, with instructions to
send back sleds enough to carry the rest of us through, and
on the following day the ice in the Myan began to break up,
and the waters to rise very rapidly. It was a magnificent
sight to see eight months' accumulation of ice and snow
sweeping by at a six-mile rate, foaming, crashing, and roar
ing, and the large masses of ice piling upon each other, or
playing "leap-frog" down the centre ofthe stream. In a few
hours the river was full to the brim and beginning to run
over its banks, threatening to inundate our locality ; but the
timely arrival of the sleds on the 3d of June enabled us to
escape with our implements, though the snow in places was
perfectly saturated with water. After crossing the ridge to
the valley of the Anadyr, we found the traveling much bet
ter. To cross one stream we had to use ice-rafts, and, where
the carbass was left, the protok was entirely open.
Our journey to Markova was exceedingly hard. Had we
been a day later, we could not have effected it at all. By
constant traveling day and night we reached the settlement
on the 4th of June at 11.30 o'clock P.M., having been thirty-
six hours on the road.
Upon our return we found the Anadyr still sealed up, ex
cepting here and there a small patch ; but these places had
been open for many days. Large numbers of geese, ducks,
and swans infested them, but were too wary to be shot ; be
sides, our small stock of ammunition had been nearly exhaust
ed on the Myan. We, however, availed ourselves of this open
water to become familiarized with the management of vetkas,
and it was not until we had each experienced some chilling
duckings that we learned to sit in them.
These were curious days to us ; in fact, days only, for, dur
ing the twenty-four hours, at no time was it dark enough to
distinguish a star. When we retired it was broad daylight,
and when we awoke it was broad daylight, and even if we
didn't sleep at all during what ought to have been night,
every thing was lighted up by the glare of the sun except
for the short space of two houi-s between sunset and sunrise.
A few days later it was cut down to less than an hour.
Though the sun disappeared from sight during this short
time, it barely skimmed along beneath the horizon, and dur-

PERPETUAL DAYLIGHT. 395
ing its absence the northern heavens were all aglow with the
most gorgeous displays of gold, crimson, purple, orange, and,
in fact, all the most beautiful and delicate tints, blending in
one harmonious whole, and casting a lustre of indescribable
beauty over the, at other times, cold and cheerless landscape.
At times this variegated display was partially obscured by
heavy, accumulated masses of dark cloud, bordered with a
glittering fringe, and blushing where exposed to the rays of
the departed sun.
One of these sunsets at midnight on the Anadyr I shall
never forget. It excelled in magnificence any thing of the
kind I had ever beheld, and continued with undiminished
loveliness for nearly two hours. During this period a heavy
thunder - cloud rolled majestically across the heavens, and
darted its forked tongues of vivid lightning athwart the va
riegated curtain of light suspended beyond. Thunder-storms
are quite rare in this section, and on this occasion the natives
began to cross themselves and mutter their prayers. Upon
our telling them that we used lightning in transmitting mes
sages by telegraph, they thought us very sacrilegious, and
were much horrified.
During this perpetual daylight it was immaterial when we
retired and when we arose, but from choice we selected the
hours naturally belonging to night, or the greater portion of
them, for our day. During these hours it was more quiet,
and the air being somewhat cooler, we found it more pleas
ant, for by this time the heat of the sun was beginning to
make itself felt. We could see distinctly at all times to read
and write indoors.
What struck me as being most singular was the regularity
with which birds and animals observed the hours of rest and
activity. Upon emerging from our quarters', at one time all
would be full of life and a'ctivity ; wreaths of smoke curling
from the mud chimneys of the different habitations, and the
natives constantly passing back and forth with sled-loads of
dry sticks for fuel, drawn by teams of active, wide-awake
dogs. Strings of women would be wending their way to the
water-holes, and returning with their tubs filled to the brim,
and suspended to poles carried across their shoulders ; while
loose dogs could be seen prowling about the village, catching

396 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
field-mice, or contesting with the magpies for the possession
of some stray morsel of food. In the neighboring trees
grouse and numerous other birds fluttered about from limb
to limb, plucking fresh buds from the twigs, and filling the
air with their notes. Intermingled with these could be heard
the sound of the axe, the shouts of the dog-drivers, and the
laughs and songs ofthe girls going to the well. Every thing
and every body was alive and awake.
A few hours afterward I again step from my quarters, and,
though the sun is shining as brightly as before, all is hushed,
and a deathlike silence prevails. No smoke, no people are
to be seen. Here and there, coiled up in the snow, with their
bushy tails covering their faces, lie the village dogs wrapped
in oblivion ; and the magpies, with drooping tails and closed
eyes, sit nodding on the sled-bows and rough projections of
the houses. Not a movement is visible among the bare
limbs of the neighboring forest, but here and there, on all
sides, the white grouse may be seen with their heads nestled
under their wings, and their snowy feathers hugged closely
to their sides for warmth. With the regularity of a clock,
at just such times, all nature retires to rest, and, with equal
precision, each morning she arouses herself.
Immediately after our return from the Myan we made
preparations to secure the yourts I had purchased from be
ing swept away by the freshet ; but on the morning of the
6th of June the ice in the Markova River began to open in
long seams, and the water to force its way through, over
flowing the surface so rapidly that some natives on the op
posite bank were hardly able to get back to the village. In
a short time the pressure from beneath was so great that the
ice had to give way, and all up and down the stream we
could hear the heavy rumblings, and loud, sharp reports, as
the thick winter coatings were snapped in twain, and came
foaming to the surface of the now raging torrent. The wa
ter rose very rapidly, but at first the current was choked up
by the accumulated masses of ice, jammed together among
the islands below. By degrees the current gathered force,
and suddenly the ice-dam gave way. Then the wildest race
ensued among the ice-blocks, each apparently striving to pass
the other, and crowding, squeezing, or trying to force its

BREAKING UP OF ICE.— STARVATION SEASON. 397
neighbor beneath the boiling flood. The river was strewn
with tree-trunks and logs, writhing in the mad tumult, and
tossing their scarred and twisted arms in the air as if implor
ing assistance ; but onward they were hopelessly swept to
mingle in the fury of the neighboring Anadyr, while other
logs took their places in the vast moving panorama before
our gaze.
It was a thrilling sight, and all the inhabitants assembled
on the river bank, crossing themselves, and firing blank car
tridges from old flint-locks, according to their annual custom.
This custom is a relic of their old pagan superstitions. It is
a form of worship to the spirit of the waters, upon whose
bounty they depend for their winter supplies offish.
Twelve hours after the ice opened the whole country was
a vast lake, and many of the inhabitants had to desert their
houses and take shelter on the roofs, with their families and
dogs, or resort to small hummocks that jutted from the flood.
Our quarters fortunately were just out of reach ofthe water,
which flowed all around them, however, and to go any where
we had to use boats.
This is the " starvation" season ofthe year. Being the tail
end ofthe long winter, the supplies ofthe inhabitants are all
exhausted. The flood has driven the native tribes to the
mountains, and cut off all communication with them ; and
even the vast numbers of water-fowl have taken refuge from
the ice-flood, and sought the more quiet waters on the open
tundra. No fish can be caught, nor are there any grouse to
be seen. These last have all gone to the knolls on the tun
dra to build their nests. Though better off this spring than
on most former similar occasions, yet there was a good deal
of suffering. One family was so reduced that they ate only
once in two days. Our deer-meat that we had saved from
winter spoiled as soon as warm weather came on so that we
could not eat it, and, as the natives were ready to eat almost
any thing, we willingly distributed it among them, but the
quantity was too small to appease their sufferings much. One
native came to me with tears in his eyes, and told me that
he was in a fearful state of want. He and his family had
been subsisting for several days upon dog-harness which they
had boiled into soup. Others were eating their deerskin bed-

398 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
ding. Our own supplies were reduced to a small quantity
of black flour, and barely enough tea and sugar to take us to
the mouth of the river, therefore we could render them but
very little assistance. The dogs were in a fearful condition.
Many of them subsisted altogether upon the carcasses of their
starved companions.
At Crepast some of the more enterprising inhabitants sup
ported their families altogether by paddling in their vetkas
to the hummock islands on the tundra, and knocking down
rabbits with sticks. These animals had congregated in large
numbers on some of the knolls to escape being drowned.
As soon as the river was sufficiently free from ice, all the
destitute inhabitants, with their dogs and household goods,
took carbasses and started for the mouth of the Myan, to
catch fish and watch for the swimming of deer, leaving Mar
kova nearly deserted.
During the freshet Koschevin and Avaram completed the
two carbasses. By the 19th of June the waters had subsided,
so that it was only waist deep around most of the yourts we
intended to carry with us. We then proceeded at once to
take down the huts and construct rafts, and by night of the
20th of June had eight of the huts, each complete in a small
raft of itself, and all lashed together, so that one could be
detached when required without interfering with the others.
In the mean time Harder had been sent up the river to pro
cure other houses, but, on account of the freshet, could secure
only two, which were floated down and attached to the main
raft. We had now only two days' supply of black flour for
ourselves and eight natives who were to accompany us, and
but little tea and sugar left. Meat we had not tasted, for
many days. All being in readiness, and having no time to
lose, since we could not expect to get other food before reach
ing the mouth of the Myan, on the 22d of June we set our
selves adrift.

RAFTING DOWN THE ANADYR.

CHAPTER XXVn.
Proposed Voyage. — Rafting down the Anadyr. — Collision. — Assistance from
Markova. — A wild Night's Ride. — Longest Day. — Entering the Protok.
— Flooded Country. — Vaccarana Protok. — Reduced Rations. — Native
Stomachs. — Watches. — A Swim. — Astonished Natives. — Avaram's Swim
ming. — Character of Inhabitants. — Timidity. — Ducks and Eggs. — Ava
ram's Adventure. — " Kamuk !" — Slow Progress. — Winding Course. —
Horse-hair Nets. — "Nik" and Kiote. — Vaccarana. — Whitefish. — The
Myan again. — Wild Deer. — Preparations for Spearing them. — Foiled. —
Manner of Spearing. — Skill. — Disappointment. — Camp of Natives.— Re
plenishing our Larder. — Musquitoes. — Deep Water. — Petrified Wood and
Mammoth Tusks. — Deer Migrations. — Mouth of theMyan. — Markova Peo
ple. — Feasting. — Halt. — At the Lee of an Island. — Pleasure of Rafting. —
Sunset and Sunrise. — Wild Deer. — Giving Chase. — Bidera and Bidarka.
— Baillee, or White River.- — Origin of Name. — Meat-hunting.- — Fish. —
Wild Flowers. • — Expedition up the Baillee. — Quicksilver. — Annoying
Winds. — Fresh Meat. — Provision Gone. — Running the " Thousand Isles."
— The River. — Exciting Chase after Deer. — The Death. — Tchuctchu Ya-
rangas. ¦ — Bideras. — Yan-den-kow's Liberality. — An Invitation. — Tents.
— Jerking Meat. — A Feast. — Parting Presents. — Oochostika. — Building
winter Yourts. — Musquitoes. — Swollen Faces. — Sufferings of Dogs. —
Moske.— Mocrusa. — Harder's Return and Success. — Asbestus. — Copper.
Nbaely five hundred miles of river and protoks had to be
traversed before we could reach Behring Sea, and, since nei
ther ourselves nor any of our native crew were at all ac
quainted with the last three hundred miles of the voyage, or
were familiar with the rafting, it was not without some feel
ings of dubiousness that we loosed our moorings in the quiet
protok, and drifted slowly out to join the furious current of
the Anadyr. The waters were yet fifteen feet above their
summer level, and sweeping on toward the sea at a six-knot
rate. Once fairly launched, unless our raft should smash to
pieces upon some of the numerous islands that lay in our
path, we felt confident of a speedy voyage.
Beyond Crepast it was our intention to follow the Vac
carana Protok through to the Myan River, and thereby avoid
the long detour of the Anadyr to the north.
From the junction of the Myan with the Anadyr to the

400 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
mouth of the Baillee, or White River— a large tributary of
the latter flowing from the north — our guides assured us we
would have good sailing, but at that point their knowledge
of the river ended.
The day was clear and warm, and in every respect but one
favorable for our "cteparture. This one obstacle was a strong
northerly breeze that swept across the river, and, catching
the piles of bark roofing that lay on our raft, kept us con
stantly under the lee-shore, in spite of our exertions at the
sweeps. It was only with the greatest difficulty we were
prevented from being driven ashore.
While dashing along in this manner directly under the
overhanging river banks, about three versts below our start
ing-point we suddenly came to the entrance of a protok,
through which a portion of the waters swept with a power
ful current. Directly ahead of us, and not two hundred yards
distant, appeared a pointed island upon which the waters
split, and for this our raft was going at a furious rate. All
hands sprung to the sweeps, but the wind and the current of
the protok being unfavorable, hardly half a dozen strokes had
been made before the crash came, prostrating nearly every
man by the force of the collision. The strength of our raft
was severely tried, but the stout seal- thong lashings held
their own bravely, and, other than a few broken logs, it sus
tained no injury.
After colliding, we swung into the entrance of the narrow
protok, and became blocked.
The strength ofthe current made it impossible to extricate
ourselves with our present force, and, being yet near Marko
va, one of the men was dispatched in a vetka to go to that
place for assistance. Seventeen additional men soon joined
us, and, with their assistance, after nearly two hours of tow
ing and poling, we again attained the river bank two hun
dred yards above the island. The wind having died out, our
second attempt was successful, though even then the raft
grazed the island. Owing to the numerous channel-ways
that intersect the country between Markova and Crepast, we
retained several of the men to provide against farther emer
gencies. At length, after near twenty hours ofthe wildest and most

REDUCED RATIONS.— NATIVE STOMACHS. 401
exciting racing, we emerged from the islands just above the
village of Crepast, and entered upon a wide, open stream,
with good current and clear sailing.
This was the longest day ofthe year. Between sunset and
sunrise only fifty-five minutes elapsed, aiyi, though the sun
was obscured from view, we had abundant light even for
reading fine print. At 3.30 A.M. we floated by Crepast, and
sent ashore for assistance to enable us to enter the Vaccarana
Protok, which lay a few versts down the stream. At this
time a strong wind arose, blowing against the current of the
river. The waves rolled quite high, and caused our raft to
creak and bend. Notwithstanding this, the wind was of great
assistance to us, checking our speed, and enabling us to work
into the protok much more easily than would have been pos
sible under other circumstances. Once in, we sent back the
extra men, and prepared to fight our own way to the sea.
From our raft, after entering the protok, not a trace of
land was visible excepting two ranges of hills, each at least
forty miles distant. We could only judge of the course of
the protok from the parallel lines of tree-tops that jutted
from the water. Between these we carefully kept the raft,
lest the waters should subside, and leave us high and dry.
But what a contrast ! Instead ofthe furious rate at which
we had swept along on the Anadyr, our progress was now
barely perceptible. This was rather discouraging, consider
ing the scant condition of our commissariat, which was re
duced to but little over one day's supply of black flour, and
tea and sugar for nearly two weeks. Fortunately, the men
that joined us from Crepast brought some putrid deer-meat
with them and gave it to our crew. Though we could not
eat this ourselves, yet it diverted the appetites of our men
from the black flour, which, by economy, we hoped to be able
to subsist upon for several days.
The presence of various creatures in the meat that did not
originally belong to it did not seem to disconcert our men
in the least; picking them out one by one with the points
of their knives, they tossed them overboard, and continued
their meals with the greatest possible unconcern.
Our progress so far since entering the protok had been at
the rate of about half a mile to the hour, but we perceived
Cc

402 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
that the farther we advanced the more speed we gathered,
and, although the protok was about fifty miles long, we still
hoped to get, through it, and reach the Myan by the time our
flour gave out.
In order to travel day and night, we divided our party
into two watches, to relieve each other every six hours, six
men being sufficient to control the raft except in very rough
weather. Up to this time none of us had slept for forty-eight
hours, excepting an occasional cat-nap. It being Smith's and
my watch " on deck" first, to keep awake we had a good
swim in the protok, and, although the water had but just
been freed from ice, did not suffer in the least from cold.
The men were much astonished at our swimming, it being
new to them, and our diving beneath the surface caused ex
clamations of alarm as well as of the greatest surprise. Aft
er the first dive they aroused their sleeping companions, and
in a few moments all hands were curiously watching us,
and continually exclaiming " Sorovno kak outka !" (just like
ducks). Old Avaram, who was with us, had the reputation
of being the best swimmer on the Anadyr, and we induced
him to jump in. Before doing so, he provided himself with
two large chips to hold in his hands as paddles, and then
only by great exertions and considerable floundering did he
manage to keep on the surface at all.
These natives are, without exoeption, the most artless, sim
ple-minded, and timid creatures I ever beheld. Their only
vices they learn from their priests, whom they regard as al
most superhuman beings, even worshiping their faults. The
majority of them are utterly without courage, it being with
great difficulty that I could induce any of them to accom
pany me to the mouth of the river, on account of their dread
of the Tchuctchus. Some of them will nearly go in spasms
if a dead mouse is thrown among them ; and one in particu
lar, named Goorilla, though unable to swim a stroke, during
the construction of our raft jumped overboard to avoid hav
ing one thrown upon him. Avaram was the only man in the
whole country of any courage. He often went bear-hunting,
on which account his companions regarded him with perfect
awe. But even he was extremely timid in some respects,
being very superstitious.

AVARAM'S UPSET— THROUGH THE PROTOK. 403
During our first night on the protok we occasionally en
countered small hummocks jutting from the water. ' On one
of these Smith found a duck's nest containing eight eggs, and
also succeeded in shooting the duck. This was a welcome
acquisition to our larder. Old Avaram then started ahead
in a vetka with a gun to try his luck, and we saw no more
of him again for several hours. At last he came paddling up
to the raft, wet from head to foot, and his eyes nearly pop
ping from their sockets. He was evidently troubled about
something, and with a long, solemn face seated himself, not
muttering a word to any one. Having brought no game
back with him, I thought that might possibly be the cause
of his troubles, and ventured to ask him what was the mat
ter. He replied gruffly, in the Tchuctchu tongue, "Kamuk !
memeliked !" (Devil ! upset !) and that was all we could get
out of him for nearly an hour, when he explained his mean
ing. While paddling along watching for game, he was sud
denly startled by hearing a sharp whistle near by him. Look
ing in the direction the sound came from, he saw nothing, but
the next minute it sounded behind him. Then he was satis
fied it was the devil, and became so frightened that he tipped
over his vetka. We told him that the sounds were made by
some bird, but he could not believe it. The poor fellow had
to suffer several days, however, for his superstition, for one
of the men, a jovial, good-natured fellow named Ivan, when
ever he caught Avaram's eye, would give a short whistle.
point his finger at the water, bob his head, and cry "Kamuk !"
at the same time shaking from head to foot with laughter.
Avaram would never smile, though.
Our progress through the protok was so slow that we had
abundant time to examine nearly every island, and our search
was usually rewarded by finding enough eggs, or shooting
enough geese, ducks, and hare to keep us in fresh meat.
Sometimes we had to tie up our raft to avoid being driven
backward by strong winds. On these occasions we would
set our horse-hair gill-nets to try and catch some fish, but
never succeeded. These nets were made of horse-tails, four
hairs being used in each strand. They were light, and not
easily distinguishable in the water, yet. sufficiently strong to
hold large fish. These people prefer them to all others for

404 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
" set"-nets, though they easily rot, and require great care to
be preserved.
The protok was very winding. In many places we could
shoot a pistol-ball across the necks of peninsulas that we
would be hours passing around. However, our raft life was
so comfortable that we could endurei these delays as long as
we had plenty of food. When the wind would allow, we
erected a small canvas tent that had belonged to Macrae's
party, which afforded us shelter from the heat of the sun.
Had it not been for musquitoes that began to swarm over
the raft, we would have been perfectly contented with our
lot for the time being. These pests made it necessary for us
to retain our skin clothing day aud night, and, though com
pletely covered from head to foot with buckskin, and having
cords tied around it at our wrists, ankles, necks, and waists,
so as to leave no openings, and wearing musquito-nets inces
santly, we all suffered much from their bites. Our two dogs
— "Nik," of whom I have before spoken, and "Kiote," one be
longing to Macrae — were tormented nearly to death. Their
only refuge was in the smoke of the fires we kept on the raft
for cooking purposes. This smoke we also availed ourselves
of while preparing for swimming, and in dressing afterward.
Wednesday, June 27th, when we had eaten the last of our
game and eggs, we came in sight of what is called Vacca
rana, a solitary house on the side of the protok, about a mile
from the Myan River. Without stopping the raft, we sent
men ashore to try and procure provisions, but they returned
in half an hour, reporting that the place was deserted. They
had succeeded during their absence in catching with the hair
net two fine large fish called "baillee," or whitefish; but these
were hardly a mouthful for twelve men.
Shortly afterward we struck the Myan. At this point it
was a magnificent stream more than a mile in width. We
sounded, and found twenty-one feet of water ; but Ivan told
us that where we were then sounding was a dry bar in sum
mer. We had hardly entered upon the Myan when one of the
men enthusiastically cried out "Alane ! alane !" and, glancing
over the adjoining tundra, we saw twelve or fifteen wild deer
feeding leisurely toward the river bank, when we expected

SPEARING WILD DEER. 405
they would attempt to swim the stream. All was excite
ment, though our preparations to spear them were made
without the slightest noise. The raft was immediately tied
up, and each of four vetkas we had on the raft was put into
the water, when the riders carefully sat in them, armed with
their long, light spears, and began to shoot rapidly across to
the opposite bank of the river, to await the approach of the
deer in the water. Then it was their intention to suddenly
paddle out, and, having surrounded the animals, keep them
swimming in a circle until they had speared them all. Wish
ing to participate in the sport, I took Macrae's carbine and
my vetka, and was soon located on the opposite bank, ready
to shoot any animal that might by chance reach the shore.
Minutes were like hours, the musquitoes tormented me so,
and finally, in utter disgust, I paddled back across the stream,
where I found the others had preceded me. The deer had
become frightened from some cause, and ran off, so we were
not only denied the sport, but the acquisition to our supplies.
Six expert natives have been known to surround and spear
a herd of three hundred deer, and not allow one to escape.
Sometimes, when a very large herd is swimming, a whole
settlement joins in the attack, some with vetkas and spears,
and others with carbasses on the river below, to pick up the
carcasses as they float down. On such occasions the occu
pants of each carbass keep all they pick up, and those deer
that manage to reach shore before dying belong to the spear
men. These last are so expert that every fine fat animal they
come to they spear in such a manner as to gitfe it just time
to reach shore. The inferior ones they kill on the spot, for
those with carbasses to pick up. Sometimes, while surround
ed in this manner, the deer show fight, and it is necessary to
give them wide berths with the light vetkas, which they
would otherwise sink or capsize.
We were considerably disappointed, but shortly afterward
a vetka joined us from below, where several shots had just
been fired, and we learned that the owners of Vaccarana were
near by, from whom we could procure both fresh and jerked
venison for present use. They had already speared sixteen
deer. We paddled down to their camp, which was a mere
hovel, but nevertheless received a truly hospitable welcome.

406 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
They fired the guns as a salute upon seeing our vetkas, as
they knew them to belong to our party. Two families were
camped here, their only shelter being an old polog, and an
other habitation formed, of a carbass inverted, with deerskips
suspended around it. This being the season for deer to mi
grate north, they had selected a spot on the northerly bank
of the Myan, and pitched their camp in the midst of a thick
cluster of "kedrovnik," or scrub pine, out ofthe sight of deer
swimming from the opposite bank. Musquitoes swarmed
about the place like bees, and tormented us nearly to death,
though the little half-naked natives ran about in their midst,
and appeared to pay no attention to them whatever.
The night was calm and bright, and, not wishing to. lose
the good opportunity, as soon as the raft floated down we ¦
rejoined it without stopping, taking two days' supply of
jerked meat with us. This meat is simply cut into thin
strips and allowed to dry in the sun. Large portions of it
become so tainted before curing that it is unfit for any but
native palates, but we gladly accepted the acquisition to our
stock of supplies. The Myan at this point is over half a mile
wide, and flows in a northeast direction, bordered on the
northwest bank by a range of low hills, and on the other by
a succession of rolling tundra cqvered with patches of stunt
ed pine. In no place did we get less than eighteen feet of
water, and in the channel we frequently found it ten fathoms
deep ; but now the stream is twenty feet above its ordinary
level. From this point Kennan, in his journey to Camp Mac
rae, took an easterly course across the tundra, and rejoined
the Anadyr at a small Tchuctchu settlement called Oocho
stika, thereby saving a day's journey. The Anadyr makes
another large bend to the north from the mouth of the Myan.
Ivan, one of our men, told me that on this tundra is a par
tially petrified grove of kedrovnik, and that quite frequently
mammoth bones and tusks are found there by the natives.
The tusks are some of them fifteen feet in length, of fine
ivory, and are bartered to the Russian traders for tobacco and
other articles.
At noon on the 18th of June we arrived at the confluence
of the Anadyr and Myan. These two streams run so square
ly together that one appears to be a continuation ofthe other,

MOUTH OF THE MYAN.— GOOD FISHING. 407
and it was not until we arrived at the very junction that we •
could perceive the main stream breaking off abruptly to the
eastward. This point is one of the greatest crossing-places
of reindeer in the fall, when they travel south in large herds,
and hundreds are killed annually. During the winter these
animals become scattered, and in the spring pick their way
back northward singly or in small bands, so fewer are killed
at that season of the year.
At this point is quite a large summer village, where the
natives live during the migrating season, but at this time it
was vacant. Below the junction the Anadyr is a magnificent
stream, in one place two miles wide, and contains several
small islands wooded with kedrovnik. This pine-brush is the
nearest approach to trees to be seen any where along the
river for a great many miles.
Eight versts below the Myan we came to the point where
the Markova people had assembled to fish. Their temporary
habitations formed a motley group, and were composed of
every thing that could be possibly used in the construction
of shelter. The poor people had much more cheerful counte
nances than when we last saw them, for now they were be
yond want, and had good prospects ahead. They managed
to catch enough whitefish for daily use, and some of them had
a small stock they had dried. These fish were perfectly de
licious ; firm, and delicately flavored, and so fat that, while
curing in the sun, the grease drops from them. They supply
their own fat for frying. Here we tied up for two days to
try and catch a supply for our journey, but only caught
enough for use during our stay. On the morning ofthe 30th
a strong wind arose, and the waves rolled so high that they
threatened to demolish our raft. We dropped down stream
to the lee of an island to wait for the wind to subside, and
again pushed on at 7 P.M. Owing to strong back currents,
we met with much difficulty in extricating ourselves. It be
came necessary to put lines ashore and tow the raft out of
the protok in which we had taken shelter.
For the next twelve hours we had a glorious sail. The
river was on an average a mile in width, with a strong cur
rent, and the night was light and calm. We rolled on with
the vast volume of water in perfect comfort, having no cares

408 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
to harass us, and no occupation but to light our pipes and
watch the ever-varying panorama ofthe shores, now glowing
in the last warm rays ofthe departing sun, and now sparkling
beneath its glance as it ushers in the morrow, before yester
day's blushes have faded from the northern heavens.
During the night two deer attempted to swim the river
about a mile ahead of our raft, to which some ofthe men gave
chase, but, just as the leading vetka was within thirty yards
of them, they climbed out on shore and made their escape.
About twenty versts below the settlement the river changes
its course from nearly due east to N. 25° E. About this di
rection it continues to flow for forty versts, bordered on each
side by ranges of high hills that were literally specked with
wild reindeer grazing toward the north. Deer at this season
look nearly white, as they are beginning to shed their thick
winter coating of hair. At 6 A.M. we were joined by an old
Korak, bound for the mouth ofthe river with his family and
three or four dogs, all piled up promiscuously in a " bidera,"
or large walrus-skin canoe. He also had a small " bidarka"
ofthe same material, capable of carrying one man, and entire
ly covered over the top except at a circular aperture in which
to sit. By 7 o'clock we arrived opposite the mouth of the
Baillee, or White River, which empties into the Anadyr from
the north. This stream derives its name from the color of
its waters, which are many shades lighter than those of the
Anadyr. The natives claim that this is occasioned by large
beds of a soft white stone over which the river flows. Quick
silver is also found on its banks, specimens of which the
Tchuctchus occasionally carry to Anadyrsk.
This is another favorite crossing-place for deer, and as
there was a strong wind blowing and two or three families
camped near by, we tied up to try and catch some fish as well
as to procure deer-meat. Musquitoes nearly devoured us, in
spite of our skin clothing and nets. The adjoining tundra
was radiant with wild-flowers of many varieties and' hues.
As soon as we had tied up, we started some of the men off to
procure meat, but they soon returned with the report that
none was to be had at that point, though they brought the
information that two days' journey up the Baillee one native
had speared more than one hundred of those animals. There

MEAT-HUNTING. 409
being no certainty of our procuring meat below this point —
this being the lowest camp of the Anadyrsk people — I sent
Harder with a carbass and two natives up the Baillee to pro
cure a supply, intending to push on as soon as the wind
should abate. We had found it utterly impossible to travel
in the wind. The piles of bark on our raft presented such a
surface to the breeze that we were invariably driven ashore.
It had from the first been our aim to keep the middle of the
stream, and then at the first puff of wind to try and gain the
weather shore, but the winds usually came up so suddenly
that we rarely succeeded. We were detained by the weather
until 3 o'clock the next morning, July 2d. During this time
several of us went ashore to . try and shoot some deer, but
failed to get a shot. Some of our men also started off with
vetkas, but had not returned when we loosened the raft.
Upon firing several shots as a signal, they rejoined us, bring
ing a fine large buck one of them had speared. This again
placed us beyond want for the time being, and, together with
half a dozen large whitefish we had caught while tied up,
made no mean variety to feast upon. Unfortunately, how
ever, the weather was so warm this food would not keep, and
we were obliged to dispose of it immediately and let the fu
ture provide for itself. Our black, flour was now all gone,
and our supply of tea and sugar was reduced to one pound
of each.
From the mouth of the Baillee the Anadyr makes a sharp
bend, and flows S. 35° E. to Oochostika, about forty miles.
To that place it is crowded with innumerable islands, among
which the waters of the Anadyr, re-enforced by those of the
Baillee, rush at a furious rate, boiling, and foaming, and fall
ing almost in a cascade. For six hours, while running these
islands, we had an exciting race. No one knew what we
would encounter next, and invariably, after passing one diffi
cult place, we would find ourselves rushing headlong towards
the point of another island. By straining every muscle, all
hands being at the sweeps, we would perhaps graze it by. a
yard or two, then only to find ourselves about to wreck on
the next. These islands are mostly wooded with low poplar
and willow trees, though the neighboring country is barren.
The south bank of the river is a high bluff, that gradually

410 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
rises as it recedes, until three versts from the river it becomes
a respectable range of high hills. The north is flat, and
reaches for about forty versts, where it is bounded by a dis
tant range of mountains, running apparently east and west.
In this portion ofthe river, which we called the "Thousand
Isles," we found fourteen fathoms of water.
We had just emerged from the islands into open water
when one of the men cried "Alane," and, two miles ahead, we
saw a deer in the act of stepping into the river to swim.
Three of us at once jumped into vetkas and started in pur
suit. In the race that ensued, though I exerted myself to the
utmost, I was soon left far behind. It was a pretty sight,
however, to see my companions shooting ahead in their min
iature boats, with a long train of foam behind each of them,
and the damp blades of their paddles flashing in the sunlight
like electric sparks, first on one side and then on the other, in
rapid succession. The race was doubtful, but, just as the
deer approached the shore, Vassilly, a Chuansee, who had
killed the last one, darted his vetka in ahead of the animal,
and turned it back towards the middle of the stream. Now
there was no hope for the poor animal, whom the natives
kept swimming around in the current until I could come up.
They wanted me to spear it, but I didn't have the heart to
do it, the creature looked so utterly helpless and frightened.
I excused myself by telling Vassilly that it was his game, as
he had headed it off. For an instant the long, light spear
poised opposite the deer's side ; then a short, quick dart for
ward followed, and the deed was done. A thick stream of
blood poured from the animal's side, staining the water for
yards around, and, after half a dozen nervous, spasmodic
strokes with its hoofs, the creature slowly rolled over on its
side, and its head dropped below the surface. The body
floated, and might have continued to float for half an hour,
but sometimes they sink sooner, and, to be sure of saving it,
Egor and I put our vetkas side by side (one not being suffi
cient), and supported it by the antlers, while Vassilly return
ed to the raft for a " carbass." It was a large buck, but was
very poor, the musquitoes having tormented it nearly to
death. From a point about ten versts above Oochostika, on the

YANDENKOW'S YARANGA. 411
right or southern bank, the hills approach the river, termina
ting in a high bluff. At the foot of this bluff Oochostika
stands. Before reaching the bluff we discovered four Tchuc
tchu " yarangas," or skin tents, pitched in a group on the
north bank of the river, which is here about a mile in width,
and shortly afterward two small " bidarkas" came splashing
through the waves to join us. In propelling these little skin
canoes the Tchuctchus use a double-bladed paddle, like those
belonging to our vetkas, though more clumsily made. To
one end of these paddles they have a short spear attached,
for spearing deer.
As they stepped aboard the raft, one of them, a tall, good-
natured looking fellow, named Yandenkow, was pointed out
to me by one of our men as having rendered Kennan great
assistance during his journey up the river. On his way up
from Camp Macrae, upon arriving at Oochostika, all of Ken-
nan's dog-food was exhausted, and there was no possibility
of procuring other along the route. Yandenkow, learning
his condition, presented him with twenty deer from his own
winter supply, without receiving compensation, Kennan hav
ing nothing with him at the time to give in return. We told
him that we had heard of his generosity, and made him a
present of some powder, lead, and tobacco, which pleased him
greatly. But the special object of his visit was to invite us over to
his " yarangas," to eat with him, having learned of our ap
proach from the Korak who had preceded us from the mouth
of the Baillee. He informed us that he had prepared a feast
for our especial benefit.
Not wishing to disappoint him, we tied up our raft a short
distance below where they had joined us, they assisting the
men in handling the sweeps, and, taking our large carbass,
pushed for the opposite shore, where the tents were.
Four filthy, smoke-blackened skin tents were pitched upon
the edge of the tundra, sheltered from the warm rays of the
sun by clouds of ravenous musquitoes. Among these pests
half a dozen little naked savages were playing, utterly heed
less of their attacks. The tents were like those of the Tun
gusians in form, consequently were not new to us, though a
long line of scaffolding, extending along the beach, and bur-

412 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
dened with the meat of upward of one hundred deer, was not
only a novel, but a welcome sight. About twenty others,
just speared, lay in the water, waiting to be dressed and cut
UP- The worst feature of the place were the piles of entrails, in
all stages of decomposition, scattered about promiscuously
among the tents.
Upon entering Yandenkow's yaranga we were met by a
dense cloud of smoke that was almost unendurable; but by
throwing ourselves upon some verminated deerskins, and
hugging closely to the ground, we stood it for half an hour,
during which time a large wooden tray, piled up with steam
ing deer-heads, was brought in, and the feast was announced.
Our appetites were thoroughly appeased by the mere appear
ance of the heads, together with Korak recollections revived
by the wooden tray, and we excused ourselves as best we
could, but our men soon demolished what meat the tray con
tained, and did not stop eating until they were confronted by
nothing but a pile of clean skulls.
As we were leaving, the Tchuctchus presented us with
some very nice fresh deer-meat, and several bladders of tal
low for frying it. They also filled our carbass with jerked
meat for the men, who relished it all the more for being
spoiled. Having rejoined the raft, we immediately pushed on, and
arrived at Oochostika at 7 P.M., July 2d. All there was to
be seen of the settlement was a number of holes or cellars,
in which two or three winter hovels had been constructed.
Owing to some superstitious notion, the Tchuctchus tear
down their houses every summer, and rebuild them in the
fall. At this point we landed and erected our first yourt, which
occupied us in building until the night of July 4th. It was
constructed as comfortably as possible for winter use, with
a good roof of logs, sod, and bark, and a " chual," or fire
place, formed of light poles plastered over with three layers
of clay, each being well hardened by heat before another was
applied. During our stay at this place we were quite successful in
catching whitefish ; some of them weighed fifteen pounds.

OOCHOSTIKA.— MUSQUITOES AND GNATS. 413
The musquitoes were abominable. Many of our faces were
so swollen from their bites as to be hardly recognizable,
though we went night and day in full armor of buckskin
and netting. The weather was very warm, and, in our buck
skins, we found the heat almost unendurable, but that was
preferable to the musquitoes. While erecting the hut we
found it necessary to build fires on all sides, in order to be
shielded by the smoke ; and our poor dogs (of whom there
were now five, three having joined us below the Myan) went
prowding and whining about day and night, unable either
to eat or sleep. Two of them, in their torment, had torn
nearly all the hair from their backs with their teeth. Their
long hair is generally a protection against these insects, their
only vulnerable points being the tops of their feet and their
eyelids. I counted nine of them boring at one time into one
of " Nik's" eyelids. The poor fellow was whining piteously,
but did not know how to rid himself of them.
Ivan told us that there were three great pests here during
the summer months. First come the " comare," or musqui
toes, to which the natives pay but little attention. Then a
very small-gnat, with speckled legs, called " moske," appears.
These are, in the language of the people, " sheepka hooda,"'
very bad. They come later than musquitoes, and appear in
perfect swarms. No kind of clothing can shield you from
their attacks, as they crawl through the smallest holes, and
even into your hair. Their bites are not only very painful,
but poisonous, causing much swelling. They are often fatal
to dogs, in whose nostrils and ears they crawl, and then sting
them. During the "moske" season the people take their
dogs into their houses with them, and keep 'the rooms con
stantly filled with dense smoke, arising from small fires built
about the floor. We were glad to learn that the moskes
were not very troublesome near the sea-shore, and sincerely
hoped to reach the mouth of the river before they should
make their appearance. The third are called " mocrusa," but
are not very bad.
As far as our own experience went, we one and all infinite
ly preferred winter, with its extreme cold, to the musquitoes
as they existed on the Anadyr. If moskes are worse than
they, then — deliver us from them. During the last four days,

414 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
while at Oochostika, we had found it necessary to exist alto
gether in a dense smoke, upon the verge of suffocation the
whole time ; there being a choice between only the two evils,
we chose smoke. Buckskin is the only material to be had
that they can't bore through, but they exhibit a wonderful
amount of judgment and ingenuity in finding seams and nee
dle-holes. N'one of us, upon our departure for this country, had
thought of reserving a place in our catalogue of Northern
miseries for musquitoes, although aware of their existence to
a certain extent. After being subjected to their persecutions
in all portions of the United States and in the tropics, we did
not dream of experiencing any great inconvenience from the
few lank, frozen specimens this country might afford ; but,
alas ! we knew little of what we had to contend with. A
country that for eight months out of the year is frozen solid
and buried in snow, we little thought would be congenial to
these insects. But, if plenty of water is all that is necessary
to their existence, they have it here. The tundra is covered
with pools and small lakes, formed by the melting snow; and
the ground, being frozen solid a few inches below the surface,
refuses to absorb the moisture, so the pools remain until evap
orated by the snow, or frozen up by the succeeding winter.
Ordinarily, the Tchuctchus informed us, the tides affect the
current ofthe river as high up as this point, but at this sea
son of the year there was such a volume of water rolling to
wards the sea that the effect, if any, was not perceptible.
We, however, anticipated much trouble from them lower
down. Harder and party rejoined us that evening, July 4th, with
five deer he had procured up the Baillee. They had given
chase to another with their carbass while coming down, but
failed to . get it. Ivan, who accompanied Harder, brought
me a specimen of the stone that the natives claim colors the
water of the Baillee. This I immediately recognized to be
"asbestus," of a very fine quality. We also found many
specimens of copper ore at the foot of Oochostika Bluff.
They were very rich in the metal.

DEPARTURE FROM OOCHOSTIKA. 415

CHAPTER XXVIH.
From Oochostika. — Nature of the River. — Dispatching Message. — Tchi-
kiowa. — Russian Relics. — Bears. — Mikhael Ivanitch. — Krasnia River. —
Phillepaeos. — Bolshoi Osero. — Telegraph Bluff. — Leaving Yourts. — Raft
Ashore. — Deer. — Smith's Departure. — Chimcha Mountain. — Last ofthe
Raft. — Ticklish Position. — The Blue Boat. — Smith's Indignation and
Story. — Tchuctchus breaking open Camp. — Devastation. — Pleasant Sail.
— Camp Macrae. — Dismal Locality. — Currants. — Remains of Houses. —
Tchuctchu Graves. — Musquitoes. — Reduced Circumstances. — Clubbing
and Spearing Wild Geese. — Mac on a Wild-goose Chase. — -Goose-spears.
— Geese not Geese. — Priest's Arrival. — Buying Converts. — Expedition to
the Tchuctchus. — Macrae's Reception. — Okakrae. — Drinking Liniment.
— Building the Hut. — Tchuctchu Idea of Swimmers. — Our Revolvers. —
Tchuctchus : Appearance, Language, Character, Customs, Religion, etc. —
Killing the Aged. — Spartan Heroism. — Story ofthe old Chief. — Shaman's
Jugglery. — Weapons of Offense and Defense. — Towing Boats. — Smoking.
— Strange and Economical Pipes. — Eating Nicotine. — Return of Priest. —
Instructions to Koschevin. — Non-arrival of Vessels. — Without Food and
Raiment. We left Oochostika July 15th, but, after drifting ten versts,
were obliged to tie up on account of a strong wind that de
tained us a day and a half. For twenty versts below the de
serted settlement the river runs due south magnetic, and con
tains a number of islands. , The bluffs retire inland on the
right bank, and the country is low and marshy — so much so
that we had difficulty in selecting a suitable place for the
next yourt, which we finally landed upon a small knoll on the
right bank, about twenty-five versts below the last. Here
Macrae and Harder remained with five men to erect it, and
the rest of us pushed on with the raft, expecting they would
overtake us with their carbass before we could reach Tchi-
kiowa Bluff, where we intended to land another. Shortly
after leaving "Mound Yourt," which bears S. 20° E. from
Oochostika, Yandenkow overtook us, bound for the mouth of
the river in a bidera, and, thinking the vessel might have ar
rived, we gave him letters to be delivered, telling our where
abouts, what doing, and when we expected to reach that
point. We encountered so many strong winds that we did not

416 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
reach Tchikiowa until night, July 8th, during which time
we grounded, and with great difficulty extricated ourselves.
Tchikiowa is the name given to a bluff where a range of low
hills terminate on the right bank ofthe river. On top of this
bluff was once a Russian settlement, the sites of two houses
being still distinguishable, and there are two rude wooden
crosses still standing. These must have been erected a great
many years ago, for none of the present inhabitants have any
recollection of the time when the Russians were on this part
of the river. One old man, upward of sixty years of age, told
me they were erected before his birth. Just above the bluff
a stream of water enters into the Anadyr, which we at first
thought was a tributary, but this afterward proved to be a
protok, which leaves the river a short distance below Oocho
stika, and does not rejoin it for fifty versts. Our last yourt
had therefore been left upon an island. We landed two
houses at Tchikiowa, one to be erected on the hill, and the
other to be reserved for future use.
Macrae and party did not overtake us as expected, so we
started on, following a course E. 20° S. for about twenty
versts, winding about among a number of large islands, and
scaring up large quantities of wild geese. We then arrived
at the mouth of a large stream flowing from the south, which
we supposed to be the Krasnia, or " Red River." From Tchi
kiowa to this point the southerly bank is very low and marshy
(possibly another large island). The north bank all the way
below the Baillee is a continued rolling- tundra, dotted with
small lakes and ponds. On both banks small will&ws grow,
together with a good deal of brushwood, but none of them
attain to the magnitude of trees.
On this portion of the river two black bears were seen, but
they scampered from the shore before we could get a shot at
them. These people have a very superstitious dread of bears.
As Smith was shouting at the animals we saw while they
were running off, the men begged him to stop, otherwise
some day he would be devoured by one of the creatures.
They, in speaking of them, rarely use the word " midvait"
(bear), but call them "Mikhael Ivanitch," which means Mi
chael, son of John. Why this name was selected I don't
know, but they speak of him as they would of a human being.

KRASNIA RIVER.— LEAVING YOURTS. 417
The large stream we saw coming from the south proved to
be the Krasnia, or rather one of its mouths, for one verst
farther, at 6.30 P.M., July 9th, we struck the main stream, ,
which was at least a verst in width.
Mr. Phillepaeos, a Russian gentleman who started for the
mouth of the Anadyr in the winter of 1862, upon reaching
Tchikiowa was told that if he advanced below the Krasnia
River he and his party would be killed by the Tchuctchus.
This prevented him from going farther in that direction, but
from Tchikiowa he took a southeast course to a large lake
called Bolshoi Osero, about one day's journey distant. In
this lake the Krasnia has its source, and, though a short riv
er, a large volume of water flows through its channels. The
east bank for about ten versts above its mouth, which dis
tance we could see from our raft, is a high bluff, rising into
hills as it recedes from the river, while the west is low
swamp land. Just below the mouth, on the eastern shore,
we left another yourt, with some jerked meat, for Macrae's
party, erecting a tripod of the longest logs to designate the
spot. From the mouth of the Krasnia the Anadyr flows E.N.E.
about twenty versts between high banks, and is deep and
straight comparatively. In many places we could not get
bottom with our fourteen-fathom line.
We left the Krasnia at 1 AM., July 10th, but, it being
flood tide, our progress was slow. At 5.30 P.M. we came to
a high rocky promontory on the right bank, at the foot of
which a solitary white birch-tree grows. This I at once rec
ognized to be " Telegraph Bluff," from Kennan's description
of it, and was the spot selected by him as being most suitable
for stretching a wire across the river. The opposite bank is
a rolling tundra, upon which we left another yourt.
Upon returning to our raft at this place we found that the
tide had receded and left it high and dry. By dint of levers
and half an hour's work, we once more got afloat. Our raft
now consisted of but three huts, and we were beginning to
be a little crowded for space. Thirty-four hours were con
sumed in making the next twenty-five versts, since we could
only travel with the ebb tide, and, besides, a strong wind
forced us to tie up for a portion of the time.
Dd

418 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
While preparing dinner on shore a wild deer ran within
twenty feet of the fire. Musquitoes were tormenting him so
much that he did not see us until within that distance; he
then wheeled and ran off before we could get a shot.
From Telegraph Bluff the river flows near due east by the
compass for twenty-five versts, and then makes a bend to the
south of about forty-five versts. By crossing this tundra in
stead of following the curve of the river, twenty versts may
be saved in winter travel. On the west side of this curve
we landed one hut, and floated the remaining two around to
the opposite side. Here Smith left us in his vetka, and started
for Camp Macrae, about twenty versts distant, for the pur
pose of bringing up the whale-boat to meet us, our carbass
not being large enough to carry ourselves and baggage.
On the southern bank of the river opposite this place is a
dome-like peak about one thousand feet in height, to which
Kennan gave the name of Chimcha Mountain. This means
"Near" Mountain in the Tchuctchu language. He gave it
this name because, while passing here in his search for Mac
rae's camp, late at night, nearly frozen and worn out, when
ever he inquired of his Tchuctchu guide where the camp lay,
the only reply he could get was chimcha.
After landing one yourt the tide began to flow, and a
strong wind sprang up, making it impossible for us to pro
ceed with the other. Being anxious to reach the camp,
we loaded all we could in our carbass, and, taking the dogs,
pushed on. The boat was so loaded down that we with diffi
culty crossed the river in the rough water. My own posi
tion, perched up on the top of the load, was any thing but
agreeable ; the slightest movement from one side to the oth
er caused the boat nearly to capsize. At length we found it
impossible to continue, and were just on the point of landing,
when the blue boat made its appearance, sailing up around a
bend in the river below.
One glance at Smith's face was all that was necessary. No
ships yet, consequently no food. But this was not all, nor
the worst of it, in his estimation. The first words he uttered
upon coming up were, " Confound these bug-eating Tchuc
tchus ! I wish I had some of them here. I would drop them
overboard quicker than a bluefish'll bite."

DEVASTATION— A PLEASANT SAIL. 421
" Why, what's wrong ?" I asked.
" There's lots wrong. You know, captain, when we left
the camp last winter with Mr. Kennan, this boat was left be
hind, and she was all right ; there wasn't any thing the mat
ter with her at all. But when I got down there last night,
I found every thing knocked higher than Minot's Ledge
Light -house. Some of those miserable 'skally wags,' that
stole our axe and spade last winter, had broken open our
house and carried off every thing they wanted, and what they
didn't want they left adrift all over the ground. But what
made me madder than all was when I went to get the ' blue'
boat ready to come up with. Some of the heathens had car
ried off the spreet-pole and centre-board rod, and then they
wasn't satisfied, but had to go to work and break off the rud
der pintles, so I had to steer her all the way up with this oar.
I hope some of their deer'll run off and capsize their sleds,
and stick that centre-board rod through one of their gizzards.
But I guess they'll get sick of breaking open houses, because
I had a jug of liniment good for freezes that I left behind,
and it's gone too. I hope some of them will think it's Amer
ican whisky and drink it, because it's got a lot of sulphuric
acid, and sugar of lead, and such stuff in it; and they car
ried off a can of arsenic, too, that Mr. Macrae had for stuffing
birds." We were glad to find, however, that the " blue" boat had
sustained no more injury, and, having transferred our bag
gage and the dogs to her, Smith and I started on, leaving the
natives to bring the other yourt and the remainder of the
baggage with the next ebb tide.
It was beautiful sailing, and particularly refreshing after
our slow raft journey. Smith was in his element, being a
natural-born seaman, and during the trip relieved the time
by recounting his experiences off Cape Cod, occasionally in
terrupting his narrative to point out different spots where
they procured drift-logs for winter fuel, and to construct their
hut with the previous fall. Above the mouth of the Krasnia
we found but little drift-wood, but below that point, in some
places, the shores were covered. From this fact we judged
that stream to be better wooded than the Anadyr.
At 4.30 A.M., July 13th, we turned in under the lower side

422 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
of a long, narrow sand-spit, making out into the river from
the northern shore, and beached the boat opposite Macrae's
hut. It was a sorry- looking place. Dried and withered
pickles strewed the ground outside, and three barrels of beef
and pork that had been left behind were chopped open, and
what was left ofthe contents distributed about over the sand.
The pit inside of the house was partially filled with water,
on which floated six or eight United States army blankets,
torn and partially rotted; and even some pulu mattresses
had been ripped open by the natives in search of spoil. The
blankets were new and good when left behind, but I presume
the natives were afraid to take them for fear of their being
recognized afterward.
This spit must have been a dismal place in the winter for
a habitation. It had been used dn some former occasion by
the Tchuctchus. The sites of two or three houses were still
to be seen, and half a dozen piles of weather-beaten, moss-
covered deer-horns indicated the spots where the remains of
some ofthe former inhabitants had been buried and the ashes
deposited. The Tchuctchus usually burn their dead.
But I was most surprised at finding a large patch of red
and white currant bushes in full bloom. These were the
only ones we had seen or heard of in the country. At this
point the Anadyr is more than a mile in width, and very deep
in the channel, which, however, is very winding.
During the day the other yourt arrived, and on the follow
ing afternoon Macrae and party joined us, having erected all
the yourts except the one at the mouth ofthe Krasnia, which
they did not see.
We pitched our tent for temporary use, and immediately
commenced the erection of our house. The musquitoes were
abominable, but, fortunately, a strong wind swept the point
nearly half the time, during which these insects take shelter
in the grass, except as many of them as can crowd on the lee
side of one's body, which they know enough to do. We
found it necessary to keep our tent constantly choked up
with smoke during the day, and before retiring at night it
underwent the same process, after which we carefully closed
up every crack and hole, but even then they would effect an
entrance.

A WILD-GOOSE CHASE. 423
By this time we were out of every thing in the provision
line except the beef and pork strewed over the ground. This
salt meat was very welcome, but, without bread, tea, or sugar,
was rather unpalatable. We kept our horse-hair seine set
constantly, and would some days succeed in catching enough
fish for two meals, while on others we could catch none at
all, and sometimes for days had nothing but the salt meat.
Our party of thirteen healthy eaters soon reduced this
stock, when we were left without resource. Fish were very
scarce. The salmon, upon which the natives depend chiefly
for their livelihood, had not yet begun to ascend the river.
Geese were plenty on the tundra lakes, but we had no am
munition, so could not shoot them.
Finally these birds began to "moult" (shed their wing
feathers), and were unable to fly, when another resource was
opened to us. This moulting occurs just after the young are
hatched out. During this period the birds congregate on the
lakes and ponds, where they can take refuge from foxes. One
day one of the men reported having found about one hun
dred of these birds on a small lake two or three miles dis
tant, in consequence of which we all turned out in force to
go " on a wild-goose chase." We knew that as soon as we
approached they would take to the water, and then it would
be necessary to drive them ashore.
Taking two vetkas, our dogs, and a couple of goose-spears,
we armed ourselves with good stout sticks and started out.
As we approached the lake, the tundra was alive with the birds
taking to the water. Having selected the best place to drive
them, two of the natives launched their vetkas at the oppo
site end of the pond, and the rest of us crept up to stations
as near the landing-point as we could get without frightening
the birds back. Our dogs became frantic, and caused us much
delay, but we finally secured them in our arms.
When all was ready the vetkas advanced, and the geese,
rather than take to the shore, allowed them to approach very
near. Then the goose-spears were launched among them, each
time fastening into a bird. Then the natives would paddle
up, and, after ringing the bird's neck and tossing it into their
vetkas, repeat the operation. These spears are very light
shafts about five feet long, and have three barbed points of

424 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
iron something like a trident, though they diverge in differ
ent directions from the end of the shaft instead of being
ranged in a row. In hurling them the native uses a stick
about eighteen inches long, one end of which he holds in his
hand, having a circular hole to put the thumb through, and
at the other end is a jog or notch, and pin, upon which the
back end of the spear rests in being hurled. When poised,
this stick is held horizontally over the right shoulder, and
the shaft, with the back end resting against the notch, ex
tends forward along the stick, steadied between the thumb
and fore finger. The advantage of the stick is the leverage
it affords, the shaft being hurled froin the notch at the far
ther end.
At length the flock headed for shore, closely pushed by the
vetkas. When they all had landed, the sport commenced in
earnest. The dogs were first loosened, and then our whole
party might have been seen rushing, shouting, and knocking
right and left among the birds, who were heading for another
pond near by. We only secured twenty this time, but fol
lowed them up, and by another drive killed thirty -eight
more ; these, with two that were speared, made sixty in all —
a good day's work. Geese are no " geese," in the common
acceptance of that word ; they have more of the opossum in
their composition. Several times birds that were knocked
over and supposed to be killed, as soon as the pursuer had
passed jumped up and started off in another direction, and
made their escape. We had several tight races, and were
frequently beaten, but one that Mac had with a full-grown
gander eclipsed all the others. The bird, with neck stretched
forward and flapping wings, was going for dear life, bounding
over the tundra at a desperate rate, followed by Mac, who,
with his uplifted stick in one hand and musquito-net in the
other, was making fearful strides to close up the gap of four
feet that intervened between him and his game. They were
closely matched, and the race was long, but inch by inch the
space was diminished, and the deadly stick was just about
descending upon the neck of the poor goose, when an unfor
tunate bunch of grass on the tundra caught Mac's toe, com
pletely upsetting his calculations as well as body, and plun
ging him headlong into a small pool of water.

BUYING CONVERTS— DRINKING LINIMENT. 435
Sixty geese, one would think, would last a long time, but
at the end of three days not a trace of them was left, nor
could we catch any more, for every goose in the neighbor
hood ran off after our big raid on them. Unfortunately, just
after our " chase" the Markova priest arrived with several
men, who lent their assistance most willingly to dispose of
the surplusage of goose-meat. The priest, having availed
himself of our presence at the mouth of the river, was on a
mission to the Tchuctchus to try and hire some of them to
be baptized, and I afterward learned was quite successful,
though one convert refused to go into the river to be bap
tized without a larger present than he had already received.
He was not a believer in total immersion.
Much to our surprise, none of Macrae's old Tchuctchu
friends came to the camp, though they had undoubtedly
heard of his return. We were continually hoping they
would do so, as we were desirous of procuring deer-meat
from them ; but, as they did not come, we decided to go to
them, and on the 28th Macrae left with the blue boat and
four of the men. After an absence of four days he returned
with six deer, and the welcome intelligence that we could
procure all We wanted in future.
Upon Macrae's arrival at the settlement no one came to
meet him, as they did on former occasions, but, when they
saw his boat approaching, the natives all walked off, leaving
him. This strange and unwelcome proceeding astonished
Macrae very much, and he did not know what to think of it
until Okakrae, with whom he had traveled during the win
ter, ventured to approach him. In answer to Macrae's in
quiry as to the meaning of their actions, Okakrae explained
that his people were afraid they would be suspected of hav
ing broken into the hut, and that Macrae would shoot them.
The other natives, seeing Okakrae was not killed on the spot,
began to gather around, and, upon learning that his party's
mission was a peaceable one, extended every kind of hospi
tality to Macrae.
Okakrae stated that some of the Northern-coast Tchuc
tchus had entered the cabin on their return from their win
ter quarters in the mountains south of the Anadyr, and that
two of them drank something they thought was liquor, one

426 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
of whom would not live. From their description of the jug
Macrae is satisfied they drank some ofthe liniment, but could
learn nothing whatever ofthe arsenic.
A few days after reaching the sand-spit our house was
completed, bunks erected, and what was left of Macrae's old
stove put up to cook with. In making the roof we used the
sods that had been piled around the old cabin. Musquito
netting was stretched over the windows, and for several days
we kept the house full of smoke, to try" and rid the place of
these pests ; but every thing failed. Every hole had been
chinked with moss, and we were at a complete loss to know
where the insects came from. At last, by holding a light to
the sod roofing, we found the spaces between the split-logs
swarming with myriads ofthe insects, just beginning to fly.
Our only solution of the mystery was, that they had depos
ited their eggs the previous summer on the sods used for
roofing, and that these were now beginning to hatch out.
They could not possibly have worked their way through the
covering of the hut.
After Macrae's visit the Tchuctchus visited us frequently,
sometimes bringing us meat, but at length they ceased to do
so altogether. By this time salmon began to run in sufficient
quantities to sustain our party. Nothing seemed to please
the Tchuctchus as much as our swimming. While in the
water they used to crowd along the bank, men, women, and
children, to watch us. When one of us dove beneath the
surface, and reappeared all right, they would all exclaim sim
ultaneously " Huk-ho !" their exclamation of astonishment.
One old fellow thought he " would dislike to be at war with
such people, lest they should dive down and cut holes in the
bottoms of his skin boats, and in that manner drown them
all." Our revolvers, also, were a great curiosity to them, they
supposing we could shoot all day without reloading. We
took no pains to dispossess them of this notion.
The Tchuctchus are very much like the Koraks in appear
ance and in many of their customs. They also shave the
tops of their heads, and the women tattoo their faces. Their
worship is carried on through the agency of" shamans," and
dogs and deer are used in sacrifices. They, like the Koraks,

SPARTAN HEROISM OF A TCHUCTCHU CHIEF. 427
are also of two classes — the deer or wandering men, and the
settled, who subsist on whale, seal, walrus, and any thing
they can get. Each man has as many wives as he can sup
port, and is at liberty to do with them as he sees fit, whether
to sell, trade, discard altogether, or even to kill them, as is
sometimes the case. They have little regard for life, and it
is a regular custom with them to kill the aged and infirm of
their tribe, also any others who are unable to support them
selves. These they lance, stone to death, or choke with seal-
thongs, often leaving the choice to the victim, and after
death, if the person be one for whom they had much respect,
they burn the body, otherwise they leave it for wolves and
other animals to devour. But, with all their barbarous cus
toms, they appear to be an intelHgent race, and have many
noble traits.
One incident of an old Tchuctchu chief, who lived years
ago, was told me by an old Chuansee, and is worth record
ing among the noblest deeds of mankind. It smacks of true
Spartan heroism.
It was during the prevalence of the small-pox, cholera, or
one of those epidemics that have proven so disastrous to
mankind the world over. The Tchuctchus were dying off
very rapidly, and the shamans all over the country were em
ployed night and day trying to appease the wrath of the
great evil spirit. Dogs were sacrificed by the score, and the
snow was reddened by their blood about every habitation ;
but death was king, and its ravages increased daily. Fail
ing in all their incantations, the shamans assembled from all
parts of the country, and held a grand consultation to decide
upon the next step to be taken. They decided that the
Great Spirit was very much wroth, and that nothing but
more and continued sacrifices would appease him. Again
blood flowed in streams ; hundreds of deer were led to the
altar to be slain. From morning to night, day after day, the
settlements resounded with the noise of drums, and the
shrieking and howling ofthe madmen. But this did not suf
fice. Their great tribe was melting away like the snow in
spring, and soon there would be none left to relate their
sufferings to posterity. At this stage the shamans again
held a consultation, and, after a long and solemn delibera-

428 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
tion, decided that nothing short of the death of the old chief
would propitiate the evil spirit. Their word was law, and
the edict fell like a thunderbolt upon the tribe. The old
chief was loved by all, and many offered to be sacrificed
in his stead, but the wise doctors said no other sacrifice
would be sufficient atonement. Then the tribe resolved to
be swept away by the epidemic rather than pay the price de
manded for their safety. At this stage the old chief assem
bled his people together, and begged them to accept his life,
which he would willingly give for their welfare, but no one
could be found who would make the fatal thrust. Then the
old chief called his only son to him — a mere lad — and, hand
ing him his own spear, placed the point opposite his heart,
and commanded the boy to thrust. This he refused to do
until threatened by his father's curse, when the stroke was
made, and a wail arose throughout the whole land. Shortly
afterward the epidemic subsided, which, of course, was at
tributed to the death of the old chief.
Some of these shamans are quite expert jugglers, and per
form tricks in the open air which defy detection. Among
the most common are to cut off their tongues and thrust
knives into different portions of their bodies. They are look
ed upon and dreaded as almost supernatural beings by the
neighboring tribes. I had heard of their feats of legerde
main during all my travels, even as far south as the Amoor,
and always wished to witness some of them, but I never had
the good fortune to do so.
The Tchuctchus are a bold, independent, and warlike peo
ple, and are the dread of the neighboring tribes, but they
have a perfect horror of fire-arms. Their weapons of offense
consist of spears, bows, and slings, and for defense they wear
a large double garment of buckskin stuffed with sand as a
protection against the spears and arrows of their enemies.
Like the Koraks, they are expert athletes — fond of running,
jumping, and wrestling, and in every respect are so like that
people that it is hard to distinguish one from the other,
though their language is somewhat different. Those whom
we have met so far belong to the reindeer or nomadic class.
For winter travel they employ the same kinds of sleds and
snow-shoes as the wandering Koraks. In summer they use

WEAPONS AND PIPES. 429
both the bidera and bidarka, which I have already described.
While traveling with their boats against the current of a
stream or along the sea-beach, they put a long seal-thong
ashore and employ dogs for towing. They are great smokers,
as are all these natives, and use a very curious-looking pipe,
manufactured more with a view to economy than any thing
else. The bowl is generally of lead or brass, and not larger
than a thimble, while the stem is sometimes larger than a
man's arm. The stems are hollow, having small doors in the
bottom, secured in their places by pitch, Which can be opened
at pleasure. These are made so on account of the scarcity
of tobacco, which they always use cut up with an equal quan
tity of soft wood or bark. In smoking they stuff the large,
hollow stem with fine wood shavings, which in time become
saturated with nicotine, and are then smoked as a substitute
for tobacco. Some of the men have quite a passion for nico
tine, and eat all of it they can obtain, sometimes even trading
with the Anadyrsk people for it.
On the 1st of August the priest started back up the river,
and, there being yet no signs of the ships, the desire to see
which induced the natives to accompany us, most of them
were anxious to return with him, having concluded that the
ships were not coming at all ; besides, they wished to return
in time to secure a supply of fish and deer for winter use.
We, however, persuaded four of them to remain, and sent
Koschevin, the Cossack, instructions by the remainder to for
ward ten or twelve dog-sleds for us- as soon as the winter
roads should open, should we not return previously.
We ourselves began to entertain some slight fears at the
non-arrival of the vessel, not knowing but that some accident
might have befallen her, in which case our position would not
be an enviable one. It was our intention to live along from
hand to mouth until there should be no longer a possibility
of a vessel entering the river with safety, and then work our
way up to Oochostika if possible. There we were sure of a
hospitable reception and plenty to eat — such as it might be,
and could await the arrival of the Anadyrsk sleds.' Salmon
were yet very scarce, and our hair net was getting so old that
it did not retain more than one out of three fish that became
entangled in its meshes, so we were once more reduced to

430 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
short allowances. Upon the neighboring tundra we found
quantities of salmon and whortleberries, which helped us out
somewhat. Ours was a dilapidated party in every respect. Our under
clothing, all put together, would hardly have covered the
nakedness of one man, and our buckskins, though perfectly
whole, were much soiled from constant use. It is true there
was plenty of water near, but also there were plenty of mus
quitoes — so many, in fact, that it would have been unpleas
ant, to say the least, to wash one's only suit in their presence.

LIFE AT CAMP MACRAE. 431

CHAPTER XXIX.
Life at Camp Macrae. — Surprise. — News of Steamer Wright. — Labourne
and Whymper.— Excursion to the Steamer. — Salute. —First Sight of a
Vessel. — Dogs.— Awe-stricken. — Anadyr Bay and Gulf. — Golden Gate
Bay. — Voyage to Plover Bay. — The Bay. — Tchuctchu Settlement. —
Nightingale and Rutgers. — Station-building. — North Coast Natives. —
Habitations. — Bideras. — Food. — Traders. — Hunting the Walrus. — A
Tchuctchu Gathering. — Preparing to Kill an Old Man. — Unconcern. —
Nan-Kum's Explanation. — Modes of Killing. — Knowledge of Anatomy. —
Native Notion of the Custom. — River Steamers. — Arrival of Barque Gold
en Gate. — Departure for the Anadyr. — Steamer Wade. — Gate aground.
— Choosing a Site. — Wade at Work. — Approaching Winter. — Discharg
ing. — Barque afloat again. — Loss ofthe Scow. — Wade River. — Prepared
for Winter. — First Snow. — Ice forming. — Attempted Escape ofthe Barque.
— Aground again. — Heavy Ice. — Wade in Danger. — Frozen up. — Last
Trip of the Season. — Breaking our way Ashore.—- Wade beached by the
Ice. — Damage sustained. — Gate Wrecked. — Flight of the Crew. — Dan
gerous Passage. — Alarming State of Affairs. — Volunteers to the Wreck.
— Saving the Food. — Gloomy Prospects. — A valuable Acquisition. — Quar
ters for the Crew. — Station-building. — Farnam's Gash.- — Library. — Our
Quarters. — Eager for the Fray. — Reducing Rations. — Station Regulations.
— Details. — Observations. — Our Guests. — Former Residents.
While at Camp Macrae we used to spend as much of our
time as possible sleeping. By so doing we did not require as
many meals a day. Upon awaking, our first movement was
to step to the door of the hut and scan the river below for
some sign of the expected vessel. In this we had learned to
expect nothing, and, consequently, were not disappointed.
Then we would set the seine, and throw ourselves down on
the gravelly beach to watch for our breakfast to come along
and get caught, though the long delay often made it dinner,
and in one or two cases supper.
On these last-mentioned days we contented ourselves (from
necessity) with one meal. The fish caught, a fire was built,
our fry-pan filled with water, and the fish thrown in to fry,
boil, stew, or whatever name suits the process best, and then,
without any accompaniments whatever, we masticated and
swallowed it. We did not use to call it " eating," for that
word suggests something of enjoyment, and these periodical

432 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
operations of .ours were utterly without any thing of the
kind ; . they were undergone only from necessity. Before re
tiring at night we would again scan the river.
So the days rolled on, each one lessening the possibility of
accomplishing any thing, toward the construction of the line
that year (for the summer lost was the year lost), and each
one increasing our doubts and fears as to the safety of the
vessel destined for that point.
On the night ofthe 14th of August we were more than or
dinarily dubious, and retired to our bunks in not the best
spirits. Early the next morning I was aroused by loud talk
ing, and, upon opening my eyes, found the hut full of stran
gers, and Americans too. Mr. Labourne, the chief interpreter
of the expedition, was the only one I had ever seen before,
but acquaintances were rapidly made, and during the follow
ing half hour I presume there was more information received
and given than ever before exchanged hands in the same
length of time. The party consisted of Labourne, Mr. Fred
erick Whymper, artist, and the second officer ofthe telegraph
steamer Wright, with a boat's crew of sailors. The Wright
lay about thirty miles below, at the entrance of Anadyr Bay,
where she had come to get a supply of coal left the previous
year. Colonel Bulkley, the engineer-in-chief of the expedi
tion, was on board, bound for Plover Bay, or Port Providence,
as it is often called, at which place the different vessels were
to rendezvous. He had no idea of finding any body at the
mouth of the Anadyr, but sent this party up merely to de
posit a letter, provided any one should come down.
After eating a " square" meal of cold meat, hard bread and
molasses, the blue boat was manned by our natives, and, leav
ing Harder behind to guard camp, we joined our friends on
their return to the steamer. Our natives were as much in
terested as we ; they had never seen either a steamer or large
vessel of any kind, and were all on the qui vive. The rain
fell in torrents, but this we did not mind, and, after a four-
hours' sail, the -black hulk of the Wright loomed up before us
in the mist. A salute from one of the ship's cannon wel
comed us on our approach, and shortly afterward we were
surrounded by earnest and curious friends, scanning our wa
ter-soaked buckskins, and asking innumerable questions.

THE STEAMER WRIGHT. 433
All the coal had been taken aboard, and the Wright was
ready to sail when we came up. As it would be necessary
for me to go to Plover Bay to procure men, material, and
provision for my district, I accompanied Colonel Bulkley, by
his invitation, but not without first leaving a good supply of
substantial provisions behind.
It was amusing to watch our natives. They were perfect
ly beside themselves with astonishment. The paint and gilt-
work about the cabins, together with the machinery, large
masts, and every thing about the vessel, elicited continual
exclamations of surprise ; and the shrill sound of the steam-
whistle caused them to nearly jump overboard. There were
two little dogs on board, one of which was the homeliest con
ceivable specimen of a rat terrier, dressed in a gray jacket,
and trained to perform various tricks. For a long time the
natives watched him with the greatest curiosity, under the
impression all the time that it was a cat, which animal they
had heard of, but never seen. Upon learning it was a dog,
they were dumbfounded. While watching the performances
of the rat terrier, " Flora," a sleek, glossy, black-and-tan ter
rier jumped in their midst, when they all started back shud
dering. Upon being told that this one was also a dog, they
could hardly believe their ears.
" Well, Nikolai," I asked of one of them, " what do you
think ofthe steamer?"
" Oh, sir, I don't know," he replied ; and so it was with the
whole of them. They were so confused by the strange sights
that — Macrae afterward told me — they did not recover their
senses thoroughly for several days.
Six miles below Camp Macrae the Anadyr widens out into
a large bay or lake of more than twenty miles in extent, into
which, at the southern end, the River Arnora, of which I have
previously spoken, empties. Below this bay the shores again
approach each other, and are shortly afterward joined by an
other bay on the northern side, to which we afterward gave
the name of Golden Gate Bay. Three or four miles below
this lies " Anadyr Gulf," an arm of Behring Sea. At the en
trance of Golden Gate Bay the steamer Wright lay when we
joined her.
As soon as Macrae's stores were lowered into his boat the
Ee

434 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
propeller was put in motion, and we rapidly emerged into
the open sea. We left the Anadyr on the 16th of August,
and arrived at Plover Bay on the 18th. The weather was
calm and beautiful, and our trip most delightful, particular
ly for me, after my long exile. For nearly the whole distance
we kept within plain view ofthe northern coast, along which,
a few versts inland, extends a monotonous range of moder
ately high mountains, with a stretch of rolling tundra land
intervening between it and the sea-shore.
As we approached Plover Bay these mountains gradually
extended down to the coast, and terminated in high, bold
cliffs overhanging the sea. The bay is buried in the very
heart of these mountains, winding back from the sea for about
twenty miles, with an average width of two miles. Its en
trance is nearly closed by a long, narrow sand-spit, extending
from the eastern cape, which affords very secure anchorage
to vessels lying inside. On this spit was quite an extensive
Tchuctchu settlement, containing over a dozen habitations.
These were some ofthe Northern-coast men that had broken
into Macrae's camp. The neighboring mountains were high, '
steep, and rugged, formed of loose boulders, and of jagged
masses of rock of every conceivable shape and size, and were
so barren in the immediate vicinity of the bay that, except
in few places, even the hardy mosses that abound in other
portions of the country could not take root.
Upon entering the bay we found two of the Company's
vessels awaiting orders — the ship Nightingale and the barque
Rutgers, The barque Golden Gate, which was destined more
particularly for the Anadyr, did not arrive until two weeks
afterward, consequently I was detained 'much longer than
would otherwise have been necessary. Plover Bay is situ
ated at the extremity of a large cape. Across this cape it
was decided to stretch a land wire of about forty miles in
extent, uniting the two cables — one across Behring Straits,
and the other across Anadyr Gulf. Here a station was to
be erected, and a party left during the following winter ; and,
as lumber had been brought for the purpose, shortly after
the Wright's arrival the fleet moved to the other end ofthe
bay to select a site for the building and commence the con
struction. A large number of men had been brought up from

THE NORTH- COAST NA TIVES. 4fc
San Francisco to be landed at different parts along the route
of the line, all of whom were put ashore to assist at the
work ; and in a short time the chosen site was perfectly alive
with busy groups, some carrying stones with which to con
struct foundations, others digging sods, while still others car
ried lumber up from the water's edge to supply the car
penters. In the mean time we made several trips to the mouth of
the bay with the Wright to look for the Golden Gate, and
had various opportunities of visiting the Tchuctchu settle
ment. These natives were much the same as those I have
already described, though the sterility of the neighboring
country and total absence of drift-wood force them to rely
upon other sources for material for their habitations and boats.
Their tents are made of the skins of the walrus, seal, or deer,
and are generally of an oval shape, from the fact that the in
habitants can not procure straight wooden poles for the
frame, but employ the curved bones of whales instead.
For fuel they burn blubber altogether. They use the
" bidera," or large skin-boats, covered generally with walrus-
hide, the frame of which is sometimes also made of bone.
These boats are frequently used in quite rough weather at
sea, and, to prevent their capsizing, as well as to buoy them
up, sealskins inflated with air are attached to their sides.
They are propelled with short, single-bladed paddles. Their
winter costume is of deerskins, with sealskin boots, but in
summer many of them wear garments made of the skins of
birds prepared with the feathers on and sewed together in the
proper shape. For wet weather a kind of overshirt is made of
fish-skins or the intestines ofthe whale or walrus, with a hood
of the same material. These garments are frequently worn
in dry weather also. This same material is also used by the
Russianized natives throughout Eastern Siberia for windows,
it being translucent, and in many respects better than cakes
of ice, which they would otherwise have to use, though scaled
fish-skins are also frequently applied to the same purpose.
Whale, seal, and walrus constitute almost their only food,
and, as these animals abound in this locality, the natives are
rarely in destitute circumstances. Besides, they carry on
quite a thriving trade with whalers and traders who annual-

436 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
ly visit their coast, exchanging walrus tusks, whalebone, and
blubber for liquor, guns, implements of various kinds, and
whatever they wish for.
They employ quite an ingenious mode for catching the
walrus in summer, though they are not always successful.
During one of our trips to the sand-spit I had the good for
tune to witness this process. While visiting among the tents,
my attention was called to several large black animals that
occasionally came to the surface of the water about half a
mile from shore seaward, and, with a big splashing, immedi
ately disappeared from sight. As soon as the natives saw
them they launched their bideras, tossing into each one half
a dozen bone-headed harpoons, to each of which was attached
a long seal -thong, fastened at the other end to an inflated
sealskin. Then they each took a long flat slab of black
whalebone, and crowding as many men into a boat as it
could carry, paddled rapidly to the locality of the walruses.
In the bow of each boat stood a native with one of the har
poons poised ready to hurl. As soon as they reached the lo
cality, half the men dropped their paddles, and, seizing the
whalebone slabs, began to pound the water, causing a loud,
cracking sound. This was to excite the curiosity ofthe ani
mals' and make them come to the surface again. As soon as
one appeared, the boats paddled toward the locality in which
he had been last seen, about which they congregated, and
continued to pound until the animal -at length arose within
darting distance of one of the boats, and became transfixed
with a harpoon ; then the line and buoy fastened to it were
at once thrown overboard. The harpoons are so fixed that
when once firmly planted in an animal they will not draw
out. When the animal was once struck, it was comparatively
easy to fix a number of harpoons in him, as the floating buoy
indicated his whereabouts. In a few minutes there were so
many bladders attached to the beast that he could no longer
dive beneath the surface ; then one of the boats paddled up
and killed him with a lance. They secured two others on
this occasion. The same method is employed for catching
whales, with the exception of pounding on the water, though
it generally requires a very large number of inflated skins to
buoy the huge .beast up.

,{>IY)-

•wit.

A WILLING SACRIFICE. 439
During one of our visits to the lower end ofthe bay, as the
steamer lay at anchor, we saw quite a large group of natives
assembled at a spot on the rugged mountain-side about half
a mile back of the village, and, being curious to know what
they were about, a boat was lowered and a party of us started
for shore. We had to make an ascent of a few hundred feet
over the loose, jagged fragments of rock, and it was not with
out some difficulty that we reached the place. On all sides,
scattered over the rocks, were crushed human skulls and oth
er bones, and we at once decided that this was the spot where
they kill the old and disabled of their tribe. Our first im
pression was that we were about to witness one of these acts
of barbarity, and I confess to a feeling of reluctance and sick-
heartedness as we approached the group. But their lively
chattering and occasional laughter disarmed our suspicions.
There were about forty persons present, from old men and
women down to mere babes, all of whom appeared to be in
the best of spirits. In their midst, upon a small patch of
level ground, was an oblong ring of stones about six feet in
length, by the side of which lay a reindeer freshly killed,
choice portions of which, together with handfuls of tobacco,
were being sprinkled over the stones by half a dozen hideous
specimens of womankind, all talking at one time, and occa
sionally bursting out into laughter. We then thought they
were about to make an offering to their gods, and, calling
aside Nan-Kum, one ofthe natives who had learned to speak
a little English from intercourse with whalers and traders,
we began to question him about it. Pointing to one in the
group, he replied, " See old man — no got eyes — byme-by kill
um." Looking where he pointed, we beheld an old blind
man seated upon a rock among the other natives, but his
face wore an expression of such perfect calmness and uncon
cern that I looked elsewhere to find the victim, thinking I
was mistaken in the person pointed to. No one was show
ing him any kind of attention, neither was there any thing in
his appearance, nor in the actions of his companions, to lead
to the suspicion that he was so soon to be ushered into the
next world.
" But what for kill um, Nan-Kum ?" we replied.
" Old man like um. Old man plenty deer. Last year old

440 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
man son die. He plenty Hke um son ; want die too. He want
Tchuctchu man kill um. All right. Old man pickininny
no want kill um. All right, no kill um. Byme-by, last
month, old man want kill um ; to-day Tchuctchu kill um."
We had some difficulty in making out Nan-Kum's meaning,
but at length comprehended that it was by the old man's re
quest they were going to kill him. He had plenty of deer,
and was beyond want, but the previous year he had lost his
only son, whom he loved very much, since which time life
had become a burden to him, and he wanted his tribe to put
an end to his existence. The day had been once before fixed
upon, but his little grandson begged so piteously that the
old man consented to live for his grandson's sake. But he
had again changed his mind, and his wishes were now about
to be gratified.
In answer to other inquiries, Nan-Kum told us how they
killed their victims. If they are persons for whom they have
much regard, they first produce insensibility by making them
inhale some substance — what I could not learn — and then
cause death by opening some of the main arteries and bleed
ing them. In telling us, Nan-Kum pointed out the different
arteries which are sometimes opened, and exhibited a perfect
knowledge of human anatomy. The bodies of these persons
they always burn. Others they spear or stone to death ; and
some they kill by putting a slip-noose about their necks, and
dragging them over the rocky mountain-side. These last are
left lying among the rocks to rot or be devoured by the fam
ished dogs of the settlement, aided perhaps by wolves and
bears. Nan-Kum was unable to comprehend our astonishment and
disapproval of the barbarous practice.
" It's bad, Nan-Kum — very bad," one of the party said.
" No bad," he replied. " Tchuctchu plenty like um. All
same every fellow. Byme-by me get 6ld, kill um too. All
same." Shortly after we reached the spot, we perceived a kind of
reluctance on the part of the natives to proceed, and finally
they discontinued their preparations altogether. We knew
our presence was the cause of this, and, besides, I, for one, was
wishing for an excuse to leave, so we took our departure.

THE GOLDEN GATE AND THE WADE. 441
Nan-Kum told me afterward that the old man was not killed
after all, as his grandson again induced him to change his
mind. It is quite possible they wished to postpone the oper
ation until after the departure of our vessels from the bay.
The Nightingale, a fine, large clipper ship belonging to the
expedition, had brought up on her decks from San Francisco
two small flat-bottomed steamers, one intended for the navi
gation of the Yukon River in Russian America, and the oth
er for the Anadyr. These were lowered from the ship's deck
immediately after Colonel Bulkley's arrival, and the work of
putting up their machinery and building deck-houses com
menced. As before stated, the Golden Gate did not arrive until two
weeks after our entrance into the bay, and then nearly two
weeks more were consumed in transferring and distributing
stores, telegraphic material, and implements among the dif
ferent vessels destined for various points. Finally, by the
12th of September, every thing required for the northern
Asiatic district for the coming year was put aboard the
"Gate," including lumber with which to construct a station
building ; a large scow to assist in unloading, and for trans
portation ; and provisions for nine months for twenty-five men.
To this number my party was increased. We could accom
plish but little work before the ensuing summer, and more
men than these were not needed.
Having no time to lose, as soon as every thing was ready,
we took the small steamer Wade in tow, and started for our
destination. The Wade was a small stern- wheel or wheel
barrow boat, as the men called her, about sixty feet in length,
and capable of carrying about twenty tons of freight. At
the time of our departure from Plover Bay she was ready
for use, with the exception of erecting her smoke-stack and
putting the wheel together. This last Mr. Forbes, the engi
neer, with the assistance of some of the men, effected on the
passage over, by taking advantage of calm Weather.
On the 19th of September we entered the mouth ofthe
Anadyr, and steered into the small northern or Golden Gate
Bay, that having been chosen as the most suitable place for
landing the end of the cable to be stretched across Anadyr
Gulf; but we had only proceeded three or four miles in this
V

442 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
bay when the Gate grounded on a bar. I immediately dis
patched Mr.' Jared Norton, with a boat and crew, to go to
Camp Macrae and notify the party there of our whereabouts,
and went with another to select a site for the station, which
we found, convenient in every respect, at the mouth of a
small river, emptying into the bay Ave miles from the posi
tion of the barque. As soon as the vessel struck the Wade
was hauled alongside to have her smoke-stack erected, and
in two hours' time she was busily at work trying to tow the
Gate off the bar, but had not sufficient power.
Already winter was rapidly approaching, and her " ve
dettes," in the form of freshly fallen snow, were visible on
the neighboring hills. Every exertion was made to land our
cargo, and allow the Gate to escape before the ice should
close in on her. To effect this, all hands were busy late and
early, and the little steamer, with the loaded scow in tow,
was constantly plying back and forth between the barque
and the station, but, owing to some defect in her draught, the
distance to be traversed, and the time consumed in loading
and discharging, we found it impossible to make more than
two trips a day. First the lumber was landed, and, the car
penters being furnished with a plan for the building, the con
struction commenced immediately.
By the 23d of September every thing was discharged but
the coal for fuel and for the use of the steamer, there being
no wood within hundreds of miles; and on the following day
the Gate was so much lightened, that at high tide, and with
the assistance of a strong easterly wind, she swung afloat,
and approached a mile nearer the point. This facilitated the
discharging very much, but the next day we met with a
great misfortune in the loss of our large scow. She had
reached the point late the night before, loaded with coal, and,
as the men were perfectly worn out, having been hard at
work since 3.30 o'clock in the morning, she was anchored at
shore with two anchors, to lie until daylight before being dis
charged. The Wade had -also been anchored near by. In
the night a strong easterly wind arose, causing either the
steamer or scow to drag, when their anchors became foul,
and, before any thing could be done, they were swept by a
strong tide into seven-fathom water, when the scow foun-

THE GOLDEN GATE AGROUND. 443
dered. The next morning we dragged for her, but were un
successful, and, time being scarce, discontinued the search for
the time being. From this time forth every moment of day
light was taken advantage of, that we might finish dischar
ging, and, besides, I was anxious to make our trip up the An
adyr, to find winter quarters for the steamer, there being no
suitable spot in Golden Gate Bay or in Wade River, that be
ing the name given to the river entering the bay at the sta
tion. To complete the nomenclature ofthe place, the officers
and men of the party christened our new settlement " Bush's
Station," a name which could not but appear very inappro
priate to a stranger, for there was not a bush growing with
in miles of the spot.
Much to our relief, on the 1 st of October every thing was
put ashore, and our house about completed, though our sup
ply of lumber was so limited that old boxes had to be knock
ed to pieces to provide material for building bunks for sleep
ing. One of the Gate's boats was at the station, filling her
water-tanks from a small fresh-water lake on the point, and,
it being late in the day, Mr. McKenna, the second officer in
charge, decided to wait until the next morning before return
ing to the vessel. We had already had a light fall of snow,
and during several nights ice had formed along the water's
edge, but in very thin coatings. The next morning, however,
the bay was filled with large cakes of it, sweeping back and
forth through the entrance of Wade River with a four-knot
current. It was evident that, winter was upon us, and the
barque had already loosened her sails to make good her es
cape. As soon as the tanks were filled we took them in tow of
the steamer, and started for the vessel, which was now under
way. Our progress was slow, and, when we caught up in the
afternoon, we found the Golden Gate again hard aground,
and that, too, at high tide, so we felt but little hope for her
escape. All during high water the little Wade pulled and
tugged at her, but without effect, and, it being late, we tied
up alongside the vessel to make another effort in the morn
ing. This bay is about ten miles in extent, and, except in
a very narrow, winding channel, running from Wad£ River
through it, is extremely shallow. His being the first vessel

444 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
that had ever entered it, Captain Harding, of the Gate, was
not familiar with the channel, and winter coming on so sud
denly gave him no time to sound it thoroughly. As the
tide ebbed the vessel careened, until at low tide she was al
most on her beam-ends, so much so that it was impossible
for us to lie in the berths on the upper side. During the
night I was awakened by a loud grating sound, that contin
ued for hours, the vessel quivering all the time like an as
pen leaf, and shortly she almost righted herself, and then fell
back with a sound as if nearly every timber in her had bro
ken. Immediately afterward, Captain Ashcomb, of the Wade,
rushed into the cabin saying that the steamer was sinking.
On deck we could barely stand, it was so much inclined.
The steamer had first been fastened on the sheltered side of
the vessel, but now, by the change of the tide, was exposed
to its full force, and was being weighed down by heavy mass
es of ice crowding upon it; but without great difficulty
she was dropped astern, and hauled up on the other side of
the Gate, where she would be perfectly safe until the next
change of tide.
In the morning we found the bay entirely frozen over with
ice an inch in thickness, and knowing that, unless we could
reach shore with the steamer immediately, she would almost
certainly be destroyed by the next heavy tides, we made an
attempt to plow our way through to the point, now six miles
distant. After half a dozen fruitless efforts, we discovered
that the ice was cutting through her hulk. Then the only
plan was to reverse the engines, and work our way back
ward, breaking a passage-way through the ice with the large
wheel astern. At this we succeeded much better, and, though
it took nearly all day, we at length reached the station in
safety. It was now evident that this was the last trip the Wade
could make during the season, and, for want of a better place,
we immediately commenced preparations for hauling her up
on the point. A complete barrier of ice, six feet in height,
occasioned by the crowding of the ice-fields upon the beach,
was formed all around the shore. Taking advantage of low
tides, aU hands were put at work with picks and shbvels to
clear a space through this ice wall, in order to draw up the

THE WADE BEACHED BY THE ICE.

445

steamer. Posts were firmly planted and purchases rigged,
and we were just about to commence hauling, when a large
field of stout ice swept by with such force as to catch the
steamer and hurl her far up on the beach, twelve feet from
the water-line, piling large fragments of ice nearly up to the
top of the deck-house. Now she was indeed beached, and
rather more expeditiously than we had expected to effect the
same result;"but the elements were not as gentle in their deal
ing with the poor Wade as we would have been. Her wheel
was badly shattered, but fortunately we had extra arms and
buckets ; her hulk was cut through in half a dozen places,
and her machinery was thrown somewhat out of place, but
luckily this last sustained no very great injury. Nothing
more could be done with her until the following spring.

THE WADE BEACHED JiY THE IOE.

We had all kept an eager watch on the Gate, hoping to
see her square her sails and glide out of the bay into the
Anadyr, but her leaning position, even at high tide, excluded
the possibility of such a thing transpiring. The morning
after the Wade was beached, all the boats belonging to the
Golden Gate were seen leaving the vessel at a great risk, and

446 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
picking their way through the drifting ice toward shore.
We assembled on the beach to receive them, together with
the unwelcome information that the ice had torn open the
sides of the vessel, and that she was filled with water, leaving
them no alternative but to winter on the point. She had on
board but little over two months' supply of provision for her
crew, all of which, however, had been secured on the main
deck, out of reach ofthe water. But what was a two months'
supply at the commencement of a long arctic winter? I had
received a supply barely sufficient to sustain my own party
of twenty-five men until the opening of spring, and now, by
this calamity, the party was increased to forty-six men, and
but a small increase of stores. Even could we save what
provision was left on the deck of the vessel, our supplies
would hardly carry us more than half way through the win
ter. Every man saw at once the necessity of saving every
ounce of food, and in a few moments our four boats were
manned with volunteers to attempt another passage to the
wreck. The ships' boats had been badly pinched and cut on
this trip, and required some slight repairing. The passage
was particularly dangerous at this time, as, in case of accident,
the ice was not strong enough to sustain a man's weight, and
the ice-fields were sawing and grinding together at a furious
rate, driven back and forth by the tides.
Before starting, each boat was provided with tacks, zinc,
and canvas. We anxiously watched their progress as they
worked toward the wreck, and before they were half a mile
distant every boat was bailing, but we saw each of the four
attain the ship in safety. They were all badly damaged, and
had to be repaired before attempting the back trip. The re
turn was effected without serious accident, each boat being
well laden. By sheathing all the boats with copper brought
from the Gate, and taking advantage of tides, several other
passages were made, and every thing portable and of much
value saved, including the ship's stoves and furniture. Cap
tain Harding did not leave the vessel until every pound of
provision was secured, and Mr. Frost, the first officer, with the
crew and many of the land party, exerted themselves to the
utmost throughout.

PREPARING WINTER QUARTERS. .447
We were in daily expectation of seeing the wreck cut to
pieces and swept off, but, on the last visit of the boats, they
found the ice piled up around her in such quantities as to
form a perfect bulwark against the floating ice-fields. The
barrier was sufficient to secure her from farther injury until
the breaking up of the ice in spring.
Amongst the material received at Plover Bay were five
hundred sawed telegraph poles, brought from British Colum
bia for distribution over the tundra. These I had at first
looked upon as almost superfluous, but now they proved in
valuable for constructing shelter for the Gate's crew.
Under Mr. Frost's superintendence, in a couple of days a
large, comfortable apartment was constructed, thirty-six feet
in length by eighteen in width, heaped over with dirt, hav
ing good berths for the men ranged around the sides, and
the ship's stoves put up for cooking and heating the room.
When completed, their quarters were equally as comfortable
as our own. The station building was twenty-five feet square,
divided into four apartments, with a " loft" above for our
light stores. Stoves and berths were put up, and the outer
walls made of a double thickness of boards, six inches apart,
the intervening space being stuffed with ground moss for
warmth. A kind of cach6, or store-house, was built outside
for our heavy stores, such as beef, pork, molasses. This the
men persistently called "Farnam's gash" (cach6), Mr. Far-
nam being the post quartermaster.
At Plover Bay, among other things, I was fortunate in se
curing about one hundred volumes of poetry, travels, ro
mance, and miscellaneous works for a station library. These
were ranged on shelves for general use — Mr. Baxter being-
librarian — and helped to while away many a long and tedi
ous hour during the following winter.
Large mirrors brought from the ship were suspended in
the different apartments, and these, together with chairs, ta
bles, berth curtains, swinging lamps, and various other arti
cles from the same source, decked out our quarters in mag
nificent style (for this region), and gave the place such a
cheerful and comfortable appearance that the men, one and
all, were anxious for grim winter to advance with his icy
legions and commence his assault.

448 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
Now that the present comfort of the party was cared for,
our first attention was to the .stock of provisions on hand.
With the able assistance of Mr. Farnam, the quartermaster,
these were overhauled, and a complete inventory made. To
gether with the ship's supply, we found that, by strict econ
omy, we could sustain the party for six months, but still four
months would elapse before we could reasonably expect any
assistance from vessels in the spring. Ration tables were
made, cutting down each man's allowance to the lowest pos
sible amount, and calculations were made to ascertain the
quantity of each article that could be used weekly. In this
manner we settled upon a regular bill of fare for each day in
the week, which was strictly adhered to, and, though on
many days the table was by no means inviting, no grumbling
was ever heard among the men, though it was naturally to
be expected. Officers and men all fared alike from the com
mencement, and all, seeing the necessity of such an arrange
ment, adapted themselves to circumstances with the greatest
good-humor. In a short time the proper names of the days
ofthe week were never heard, but, by general consent, each
was designated by the most prominent article of food for
that day, according to the bill of fare, such as " bean day,"
"sugar day," "bacon day," "molasses day," "soft-bread day,"
etc. Regulations for the government of the station were also
posted up in the eating-room, where all could see them, and
know what would be required of them.
These prbvided, among other things, for the appointment
of an officer weekly to superintend the kitchen apartment,
see that the beds were aired and made up at a certain time,
and that the quarters were swept and kept in order, and to
report the violation of any of the rules. Two men were also
detailed weekly to sweep the quarters, assist Mr. Farnam in
weighing out daily allowances of food, and to keep the cook
supplied with coal and water.
With these there were many other minor requirements,
some of them necessarily strict, and, out of justice to the good
sense and orderly behavior of the men, I will say here that
at no time during the following year were any ofthe regula
tions transgressed.

THE WINTER STATION. 449
Mr. Dixon, our hospital steward and only medical adviser,
with his other duties, assumed the care ofthe barometers and
thermometers, and kept a complete meteorological record, or
as nearly so as his instruments would allow, taking the read
ings three times during the day, morning, noon, and night.
Among the unfortunates who were compelled to take up
their abode with us during the winter by the loss ofthe Gate
were Messrs. Stoddard, Leggett, Kelly, and Smith (senior).
These gentlemen shared willingly in all the duties ofthe sta
tion, and resigned themselves calmly to the rigors and tedi
ousness of the long winter before them.
The position of the station was not a very sheltered one,
though in every other respect it exceeded any other spot we
could have chosen. It was situated on a point of level land
comprising about twenty acres, bounded on one side by Gold
en Gate Bay, and on the other by Wade River. This stream
is six hundred feet in width at its mouth. The spot had,
however, been inhabited long before we took possession of
it both by whites and natives. Heaps of deer-horns indi
cated the graves of some of the latter, while a high, rude
wooden cross, apparently of great age, proclaimed that Chris
tians had also visited the place. These last were undoubt
edly Russians, but whether they ever lived at this point I
could never learn from inquiry. Deshnew wintered some
where in this locality in the year 1648, when he first ascend
ed the Anadyr, but I should think it hardly possible that
this cross had been standing since his time.
Ff

450 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

CHAPTER XXX.
Anxiety. — Hope and Fear. — Possible Resources. — Dubiousness. — Foot-par
ty to Camp Macrae. — Success.— Tchuctchu Ideas of our Object. — Explain
ing. — Day of Rejoicing. — Arrival ofthe Herd. — Bargaining. — Killing the
Deer. — Grubs. — Our Mirrors. — Arrival of Anadyrsk Sleds. — Famine and
Distemper. — Off for Anadyrsk. — The Poorga. — Dismay of a New-comer.
— Death of Dogs. — Telegraph Bluff. — Oochostika. — Yandenkow again. —
Our Champion. — Trading Wives. — At Markova. — Pitiable Condition of
Inhabitants. — No Fish, no Deer, no Grouse, no Dogs. — Famines. — Cos
sacks after Deer. — Start for Ghijigha. — Kennan. — Encouraging News. —
More Expeditions for Deer. — Native Endurance of Hunger. — Lamentable
Circumstance. — Simple-mindedness. — Notion of Time and Age. — 111
Health. — Confidence. — A Caravan for the Sea. — Supplies from Penjina. —
Last Communication. — Arrival of Jared Norton. — A bitter Cold Snap. —
68i° minus. — Sufferings of our Men. — Effects of Extreme Cold. — Christmas
Holidays. — Famished Dancers. — Ousting the Devil. — Deer in Penjina. —
Koraks and Deer. — Disappointments. — Trading Season. — Absence of
Tchuctchus. — Last Hope of the Inhabitants. — Macrae. — News from Bush's
Station. — Death of Robinson. — Sad Circumstances. — Dismantling the
Wreck. — The Fate of Nik. — Young's Adventure with Wolves. — A badly-
scared Man.
Our condition at this time was any thing but cheering, on
account of the scarcity of provisions. My own feelings fluc
tuated constantly between fear and hope. When this extra
party was first thrown upon my hands I experienced many
an anxious hour, though I endeavored as much as possible to
conceal my fears from the party, and whenever any of them
asked what we would do for food, as many of them did, I
made it a point to tell them we would have no difficulty
whatever in securing supplies from the natives.
There were two avenues from which I hoped to procure
assistance, but there was a possibility of both of these fail
ing. The first was from the Tchuctchus, who I hoped would
pass near the station on their southward journeys. From
these I had stiong hopes of procuring enough deer-meat to
carry us through ; but in this there were two possibilities of
failure. Perhaps the natives would not make the southern
journey at all this winter, as was sometimes the case; or, if

HOPES AND FEARS. 451
they did so, they might pursue some other route, and we had
no means of reaching them, nor any knowledge of their
whereabouts. The second resource was through the dog-sleds I had in
structed Koschevin, the Cossack sergeant, to send from Ana
dyrsk with the opening of winter travel. With these, should
they arrive, I had hopes either of reaching the Tchuctchus, or
of dividing the party and conveying some of them to the
Okhotsk Sea. But then there was a possibility of Koschevin
not having received the instructions sent him, or he may have
been unable to procure sleds. Even if the sleds were sent,
they would come as far as Camp Macrae, forty-five miles dis
tant from the station, and, finding no one there, also not know
ing where to look for us, they would be obliged to return.
At length the 20th of October rolled round and no Tchuc
tchus made their appearance, perhaps through fear of us. To
double our chances of finding some of them, and to direct
the dog-sleds to the station should they come, I sent a foot-
party to Camp Macrae, under the guidance of Mr. Smith (jun
ior), with instructions to remain there as long as their sup
plies would permit. After a few days, some of the party re
turned on deer-sleds with two or three Tchuctchus whom
they had encountered at that place, and persuaded to visit
the station. These men had purposely avoided us through
fear, they said, thinking our object was to make war upon
them, and it was with the greatest difficulty they could be
induced to come near us. " If," they said, "your object is not
to make war upon us, why didn't you bring your women and
children with you ?"
We told them that our women were frail, delicate creat
ures, accustomed to perennial summer, and that they would
wilt like flowers on the tundra if exposed for ten minutes to
one of their chilling poorgas ; and as to the children — why, at
the approach of winter, they would die off more rapidly than
musquitoes. From the manner in which one old fellow shook
his head, I am satisfied he thought that we were either tell
ing a rather large " yarn," or that our women and children
must be strange and useless creatures. With them, the wom
en perform much of the hardest labor, and can bear any
amount of exposure.

452 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
A few little presents convinced them that our mission was
friendly, and, after getting them in the best humor, they
promised to bring over their herd of deer, we agreeing to
buy some from them, and to pay them in kettles, axes, pow
der, and tobacco, since those were the articles they wanted
most. This was a day of rejoicing with all hands. Three days
later the natives arrived, bringing their families and a herd
of about eight hundred deer. We made a satisfactory bar
gain with them for one hundred and fifty animals, and they
started out to select and kill them for us. In a few hours
they returned dissatisfied, and demanded more compensation.
I saw at once there would be no end to their extra demands
in payment, and told them I would pay for the deer the price
they had agreed to accept, and no more, but that, when the
deer were killed, I would make them a number of presents
(naming them) through friendship. We expected to have
many future dealings with the tribe, and wanted to let them
know that we would abide by our agreements, and should
expect them to do the same. He (the spokesman) was per
fectly satisfied with the promised presents, and again started
out, but in half an hour returned, demanding in addition a
gun and various articles we could not spare. We were re
solved to get deer now, as we might have no other opportu
nity, and I at length told him that unless he killed the deer
I had purchased from him I should send our own men to kill
them instead. He now saw he could get nothing more, and
went willingly at work lassoing and killing the animals. Be
fore spearing each one, a kind of short prayer was muttered
by the executioner. As fast as they were killed, our men,
with the assistance of the Tchuctchu women, dressed them,
and threw snow inside to prevent their spoiling ; afterward
they were piled up against the station building to be covered
with drift snow. It was quite a cold day, — 21° Fahrenheit,
but, in spite of this, the women, to free their arms, threw their
skin clothing entirely from the upper portions of their bodies,
and worked wholly disregarding the temperature. Their
heads were also bare and covered with frost.
For the first time, I noticed upon the backs of these deer a
very large species of grub, an inch in length, much like those

FAMINE AND DISTEMPER. 453
sometimes found On cattle. These the women used to carry
piled up in their double hands into the house to offer to the
men, now and then cracking one between their teeth to con
vince them that they were good to eat, much to the discom
fort of some of those uninitiated in Siberian customs. Our
mirrors were great curiosities to these people. It was their
chief delight to assemble before them in groups and make
faces. After this band had visited us in safety, several others
came, bringing fox and beaver skins and mammoth tusks to
exchange for trinkets and tobacco. Some of these tusks were
of enormous size, and could be obtained for a mere trifle.
On the 31st of October a dozen dog-sleds arrived from An
adyrsk, sent by Koschevin. Their reports from the interior
were any thing but encouraging for the prosecution of our
work. The natives, even at this early day, were many of
them in an almost starving condition. No salmon had as
cended the Anadyr during the past summer, and they were
entirely without dog-food. Besides, to add to their misfor
tune, a species of distemper had broken out among their dogs,
and swept away four fifths of all in the country. This dis
ease was undoubtedly the same with which Dr. Kane's dogs
had been attacked : it almost invariably proved fatal.
Now that the party at the station was absolutely beyond
want, our next care was to try and accomplish some work on
the line. Nothing could be- done along the Anadyr until
poles had been rafted, and, if any thing at all could be effect
ed, the Myan River portion of the district would be best
adapted for the commencement. Our greatest difficulty
would be in securing transportation and dog-food. If these
could be procured, supplies could be brought from Ghijigha
to sustain a party on that river. To ascertain these facts, as
well as to convey the intelligence of the loss of the Gate and
safety of all on board, I resolved to start immediately for
Anadyrsk, and thence for Ghijigha, from which place the
news of the Gate's loss could be transmitted through by sleds
to Irkoutsk, and then telegraphed via St. Petersburg to Amer
ica, in order to relieve the anxiety of those who had friends
on board. Leaving Mn Macrae in command, and taking Mr.
D. C. Norton (foreman), Harder, and two others, I left the
station November 5th for Anadyrsk. It was snowing at the

454 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
time, and there were indications of a poorga, but we pushed
on, taking a direct course across the tundra for Camp Macrae.
That place we hoped to reach by night. But the snow was
not sufficiently deep on the tundra to cover the rough hum
mocks, and our progress was slow. Night overtook us with
a severe storm, in which our sleds became scattered. Six of
us managed to keep together, and traveled until we came to
a small cluster of brush, when we built a fire, cooked supper,
and threw ourselves down on the snow to sleep. By morn
ing every man and dog was buried from sight in the snow.
About noon we arrived at Camp Macrae, where we found
the other sleds, they having traveled nearly all night to reach
that point. It was a pretty severe initiation into arctic ex
periences for three of the party, one of whom came to me
and asked, " Captain, how long do you think H will take us
to reach Markova ?" " About thirteen days," I replied. At
this his face wore an expression of utter consternation, and
he broke forth, " Great G — d ! twelve days more !" and, ut
tering a groan, walked off shivering.
On account of severe storms, we were four days reaching
the yourt erected opposite Telegraph Bluff. Four of our
best dogs fell dead in their harness from exposure to the
fury of the storm. Beyond Telegraph Bluff yourt we had
fine though cold weather, and a good hard road all the way
up the river to Markova, which place we reached November
17th, after a twelve days' journey.
At Oochostika we found Yandenkow expecting our arrival,
and holding in reserve a fine fat deer to present us with. I
had brought with me a carbine and several minor presents
to give him, with which he was very much pleased. He was
very particular to inquire all about the telegraph line ; how
it would look when done, and every thing connected with it.
When I had finished telling him he appeared much relieved,
and said his people had been afraid that it would frighten
wild deer, and prevent them from migrating across the river,
thereby depriving the natives of the means of procuring a
livelihood. " But now," he said, in a very earnest tone, " if
any of my people touch the telegraph, I'll whip them first my
self, and then report them to you." Yandenkow was a very
large and athletic man, and a better champion for us could

AT MARKOVA.— HARD TIMES 455
not have been found in the country. He was conceded by
his tribe to be one of the best, if not the best wrestler among
them. During our short sojourn at this place we witnessed a
novel trading arrangement, the objects exchanged being the
wives of two natives.
Upon reaching Markova, we found that the reports we had
received at the mouth of the Anadyr from the dog-drivers,
concerning the destitute circumstances of the inhabitants,
had not been exaggerated. In view of the anticipated hard
winter, numbers of families had moved to the mouths of the
Myan and Baillee Rivers to fish through the ice. We found
old Avaram, the bear-hunter, at the Baillee. One native,
more enterprising than the others, Illia Deachkoff, had taken
his family t^the Myan, where he had built our house the
previous spring, near the mouth ofthe Olgan. Of those that
remained, many were in very pitiful conditions, utterly with
out food, and even at this early stage ofthe winter were boil
ing up their deerskin bedding into soup. Their dogs were
nearly exterminated, and what remained of them were half
starved and almost unfitted for use. But, even had they been
in condition for the road, the Tchuctchus and other neighbor
ing tribes had not yet begun to approach the settlement,
and there were great doubt's whether, by going in search of
them, assistance could have been procured.
These famines occur every four or five years, owing to fail
ure in catching fish; but usually the people struggle through
the winter by obtaining deer from the wild tribes, and by
trapping grouse, which are almost always very abundant.
But this year misfortunes were heaped upon them. They
had succeeded in spearing'but few deer, and salmon had fail
ed altogether. Their dogs were nearly all dead, therefore
precluding the possibility of going to the wandering tribes
to buy deer, and, strange as it may seem, scarcely a grouse
was to be seen about the settlements. Their last and only
hope was that the deer-men, hearing of their situation, would
approach nearer the settlements with their herds, so that
they could be reached.
These misfortunes rendered it impossible for us to derive
any assistance here, either in labor or transportation, for the

456 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
prosecution of our work. Penjina and Ghijigha were the
nearest sources from which we could expect to obtain either.
Without these, even could we get the necessary supplies
from Ghijigha to sustain a party on the Myan, but little
could be done in the way of distributing poles over the route,
which would be the first thing necessary. Immediately aft
er our arrival I sent Koschevin in search of the Tchuctchus,
to purchase seventy deer for ourselves and the natives,, to
many of whom we were indebted ; and having left Mr. D. C.
Norton in charge at Markova, on the 20th of November I
managed to collect enough dogs for two teams, and started
for Ghijigha, taking the direct route to Penjina. On the
third morning out, as we were crossing Ruski Crebet, a low
ridge, we met Kennan, on his way to Anadyrsk with a small
supply of provision, and eleven hundred dry efish for dog-
food. It was a joyous meeting, and, there being a poorga
raging at the time, we returned to a point where the route
crosses the Orlafka River, and, pitching a polog, spent the
day recounting our various experiences since last meeting,
and perusing letters from home, of which each had several
for the other. But the most welcome intelligence was that
there was the greatest abundance of provision in Ghijigha,
brought there by one of the Company's vessels, and Kennan
thought he would have no difficulty in securing the neces
sary transportation for it. The following day we started
back for Anadyrsk. Kennan remained with us only four or
five days, and hurried back to the Okhotsk Sea, to convey
the intelligence ofthe wreck. Short though his visit was, as
I look back upon it now, it appears to be the only bright
spot upon the dismal page of that winter's proceedings. The
good news he brought for a while brightened up the gloom
occasioned by the sufferings of the poor people all around us,
and somewhat encouraged our hopes of accomplishing some
work on the line. We were both satisfied that a party could
be sustained on the Myan ; but to procure dogs and dog-food
for the distribution of poles would be our greatest obstacle.
Should, however, we succeed in getting deer from the Tchuc
tchus or Koraks in sufficient quantities, even this obstacle
might be overcome. In three or four days Koschevin re
turned, having been unsuccessful in finding; the natives.

NATIVE CHARACTERISTICS. 459
It was yet early in the winter, and, thinking it would be
impossible to work Out of doors during the months of De
cember and January on account of the extreme cold, I de
ferred sending to the Gulf Station for more men for the time
being, though I immediately dispatched Koschevin and Tol-
stekhin again in search of the Koraks, with tobacco and ma
terial-sufficient to purchase two hundred deer. After a few
days they again returned unsuccessful, and then Koschevin
started for Penjina, to forward supplies from that place as
fast as they should arrive from Ghijigha.
The month of December rolled by cold and stormy, our
spirit thermometers indicating as low a temperature as —56°
Fahrenheit. This was the coldest weather any of us had ex
perienced, but our comparatively comfortable quarters, with
plenty of firewood, placed us out of reach ofthe unpleasant
influences of this low temperature. However, we found it
necessary to wear our furs even indoors a portion ofthe
time, and within three feet of our large blazing fire water
froze. Several times I attempted to write at my desk, a few
feet distant, but was compelled to desist.
How the people lived during this time I can't conceive, but
they are peculiarly and fortunately constituted. Starvation
they are accustomed to, and they can subsist upon a smaller
amount of food than I would ever have dreamed it possible.
We shared our scant supplies with them as much as we
dared to, but our past experiences in the country had taught
us not to rely too much upon future expectations. One poor
fellow, whose family was upon the verge of'starvation, came
to me one day with tears in his eyes imploring assistance.
He had a large family of small children, who had eaten noth
ing for two days — poor, haggard little creatures, nearly fam
ished to death ; and his dogs, of which he had seven, were
perfect living skeletons. To feed his dogs was out of the
question, but we gave him what food we could spare, and he
started off, relieved for the time being. A few hours after
ward another man came, and wanted to get my advice on a
matter that he said had been troubling him for several days,
and which he was unable to decide upon for himself.
"You know, barin (sir)," he said, "the winter has hardly
commenced. I have a wife and seven children, and seven

460 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
dogs to support, and not a pound of meat or fish to give
them. But I have some deerskins and eight fathoms of seal-
thong which I can boil up. These are not enough to sustain
the family, and the dogs too, until the Tchuctchus come to
trade, and I don't know where to get any more, as my neigh
bors are all starving too."
Here he hesitated a moment, and, with a faltering voice,
said, " If my children perish, I will have my dogs left ; but if my
dogs perish, how can I go to the Tchuctchus to get deer ?
Then my family will starve too, and I will have neither fam
ily or dogs."
What he wanted me to decide was whether he should let
his family or his dogs starve. This only serves to show the
desperate straits to which some of them were reduced. A
little provision, with the promise of more when the Penjina
sleds should arrive, together with a short moral lecture upon
the duties of parents, etc., relieved him very much, and he
went off encouraged, and, I dare say, convinced what course
to pursue if driven to the worst.
These people, old and young, are perfect children in their
tastes and notions. It was almost a daily' occurrence for
some of them to come to our quarters to have some question
in dispute settled, or to get advice upon some matter. Any
thing we would tell them they would accept as Gospel, and
our advice was law with them. It was sometimes quite
amusing to listen to their debates on the simplest matters,
and to act as arbiter for them. On one of these occasions,
two old men, the younger thirty-five years my senior, came
to get some kind of advice. When they had received it they
expressed great thanks, and one1 of them said, "Ah! barin,
you are just like a father to us." The manner in which this
was spoken, together with the circumstances of our relative
ages, made the whole thing appear very ludicrous.
They have no conception of time or ages. One of our par
ty, who was twenty-three years of age at the time, an other
wise sensible native, after thinking a while, judged to be fifty-
five years old. " Oh no, my friend," said another who was
present, " more than that ; I should say sixty-two or sixty-
three, at least."

NATIVE CONFIDENCE— A CARAVAN FOR THE SEA. 461
They have no beards whatever, or but very little, and,
from the fact of our having them, they decided at once that
we were all very old men. They rarely spoke of any of our
men except as " stareek" (old man).
These semi-civilized natives are not a very robust people,
and are afflicted with a great deal of disease, probably brought
from the shores of the Okhotsk Sea. They had such implicit
confidence in the superior knowledge and ability ofthe mem
bers of our party as to imagine us all, with our other accom
plishments, to be likewise possessed of a knowledge of medi
cine, and being confirmed in their notions by the fact of our
having a small medicine-chest with us, they beset us almost
daily for medicine. In a short time all the harmless contents
ofthe chest were consumed, as we did not dare to make use
of the others, but still they called and pleaded for more.
They were unable to comprehend that certain medicines
were suitable only for certain cases, but would pick up one
phial after another, and want to try some of each. Any
thing we would have given them they would have swallowed
without the slightest hesitancy.
Up to this time I had held in reserve the eleven hundred
dry fish brought me by Kennan for the purpose of supplying
teams going to the mouth ofthe Anadyr. The natives, being
without food for their dogs, were glad to make the trip for
the sake of having their dogs fed, and on the 13th of January
I sent thirteen teams to the lower station to bring up Mr.
Jared Norton and five workmen, together with the necessary
implements for labor on the Myan. It was my intention to
send a party to that river to cut poles and commence the
distribution. As yet no stores had arrived from Ghijigha,
though we were expecting them daily.
February 2d Koschevin returned from Penjina with eight
nartas loaded with supplies, brought to that place by the
Ghijigha ispravnik for our use. These nartas had also prom
ised to continue on to the mouth of the river, if needed, and,
being supplied with their own dog-food, I started them on
immediately to that place, to bring back Messrs. Macrae,
Baxter (telegraph operator), and Frost (first officer of the
wrecked vessel), together with six other men. Mr. Frost
and four of the crew of the Gate had joined the land-party

462 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
since my departure from the station. This would necessarily
be the last train to go to the Gulf Station during the winter,
so I requested Mr.' Macrae to bring up also a supply of salt
provision, to be used for the support of the Myan party dur
ing the spring floods, knowing that it would be impossible
to procure other food during that time.
On the 5th of February, the thirteen sleds, with Mr. Jared
Norton, arrived at Markova from the station, after a quick
and pleasant journey, it having taken only twenty-three days'
for the sleds to make the round trip ; and on the 9th of Feb
ruary, having a good supply of provision on hand, the first
party of six men, under Mr. D. C. Norton, left for the Myan
to commence work.
By waiting until the month of February before sending
men into the field I had hoped to escape the severest cold,
but, as it proved, was mistaken in my calculations. Immedi
ately after Mr. Jared Norton's arrival in Markova, and dur
ing Mr. D. C. Norton's journey to the Myan also, for the two
weeks succeeding we experienced by far the coldest weather
of the winter. From the 7th to the 1 8th of February in
clusive the mean temperature at all hours of the day was
—42° Fahrenheit, the maximum —20° Fahrenheit, and the
minimum —68-^° Fahrenheit, this last being upward of 100°
below the point at which water freezes.
The extreme temperature on the 18th was —52° Fahren
heit, and on the very next day the spirits in our thermom
eters arose to +21°, making a change of 73° in temperature
in the short space of twenty-seven hours.
On the 19th, 20th, and 21st of February the temperature
fluctuated between +21° and —19° Fahrenheit, and then, dur
ing the four days following, our thermometer indicated — 49°
on the 22d of February, —56° the 23d, —62° the 24th, and
—41° the 25th of February. During the warm spell we had
a light fall of snow, but the remainder of the time it was
clear and calm.
While the weather was coldest Mr. D. C. Norton and party
were living in the open air, the house we had commenced
building the previous spring not being habitable, and requir
ing fixing to a great extent before it could offer any protec
tion against cold. During the coldest nights this party did

EFFECTS OF EXTREME COLD. 463
not dare to go to sleep. Mr. Norton assured me that while
standing so near their camp-fire as to nearly burn their hands
extended in front of them, their noses were actually freezing.
At this time Mr. Macrae and party were also on their way
up the Anadyr River, but with them the weather was much
milder than farther inland, though nevertheless very severe.
With us indoors it was extremely cold, and, though our
chual was all ablaze with burning logs, in some portions of
the room near the floor the spirits sank to —35° Fahrenheit.
Outside the moon was full, but it cast a pale, indistinct light
upon the landscape. The atmosphere itself appeared to be
frozen, obscuring every thing as if in a thick mist. To test
the effects of this lowest temperature, I stepped out of doors
bareheaded and barehanded, and stood for some moments.
Upon first emerging from the house, I could not perceive
that it was any colder than I had previously seen it on a
hundred occasions. It was calm and deathly still. The only
thing uncommon that I noticed was a hissing sound, occa
sioned by my warm breath coming in contact with the cold
air. But in a few moments I felt a very slight pricking sen
sation in my nose, ears, and fingers, which was accompanied
by a peculiar feeling, as if those features were being drawn
up like a wilting leaf, and then I sought refuge in the house.
I had always associated in my mind a vast amount of shiv
ering and chattering of teeth in connection with extreme
cold before coming to this country, but, during a sojourn of
more than two years, I do not remember, except on one occa
sion, ever having seen a person shiver from cold, and this one
had broken through the ice on the Myan River and become
wet, when th'e temperature was hardly below the freezing
point. Nor is the suffering from cold in this dry atmosphere, ex
cept where the body becomes moistened through perspira
tion or otherwise, one tenth part as great as I had expected
to find it. Dressed in these heavy furs, if compelled to ex
ercise much, even at a very low temperature, one will per
spire more or less, and then he is likely to suffer a great deal
until he can change the moistened garment ; but with proper
care, and by not burdening himself with a superfluity of fur
clothing, he can travel for days without experiencing much

464 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
suffering, though he may freeze his nose a dozen times. This
last experience is accompanied with very little pain — so little,
in fact, that one rarely knows when his nose is frozen until
made aware ofthe fact by a companion, and then the remedy
is always at hand. I have never yet seen a native with a
frozen nose, but it is very common for them to have their
cheeks and chins frostbitten.
In spite of the scarcity of food and the great uncertainty
ahead, the inhabitants entered into their holiday sports with
their usual zeal. Our own Christmas was a forlorn affair,
but theirs, which came twelve days later, was observed as
strictly as on former occasions. Vechourkas (dances) were
almost of nightly occurrence.
They were always fully attended, and oftentimes those per
sons in the most destitute circumstances would be most mer
ry. Among other sports at this time, parties disguise them
selves with wooden masks or handkerchiefs, and .visit every
house in the place, carrying their three-stringed musical in
struments with them for dancing. This species of masquerade
is kept up nightly for a week or more, after which the vil
lage priest goes around to each house and reconsecrates it,
it being supposed that during the masquerades the devil gets
possession of them, and this ceremony is intended to oust
him again.
During the visit of the Ghijigha ispravnik in Penjina he
had succeeded in purchasing one hundred and seventy deer
from the wandering Koraks for our use. These were so far
distant, however, and we found so much difficulty in getting
transportation, that we derived but little benefit from them.
Dogs consume so much deer-meat for food that, had I sent
teams to that place to bring some of these to Markova, near
ly all the load they could have hauled, in their present feeble
condition, would have been required to sustain them during
the journey. We found that it would be necessary to have
th'e animals driven to this place and to the Myan, and then
killed, in order to secure the requisite amount of meat. To
try and effect this, I again sent out the Cossacks.
On the 1 7th of February some Koraks arrived, from whom
we obtained thirty-six animals. They reported that seventy
others were on the way that Koschevin had bargained for.

BUYING DEER.— DEATH OF ROBINSON. 465
Twenty of the thirty-six were at once sent to Mr. Norton, on
the Myan, the remainder being used to feed the dogs.
After waiting a number of days for the other Koraks to
arrive, a native came in saying that this band had found it
impracticable to drive the cleer farther than the Orlofka, on
account of deep snow, and that they had killed the seventy
on that stream, and left them lying without dressing them,
which resulted in their becoming unfit for any thing but dog-
food. This was a very serious disappointment for us.
Annually large numbers of Tchuctchus come to Anadyrsk
to trade with the fur merchants from the Okhotsk Sea. The
trading season was now approaching, and, having been disap
pointed in our other calculations, we looked to these traders
as a last resort. The merchants were already beginning to
arrive with large quantities of tobacco and trinkets for the
trade, but as yet no Tchuctchus, except a mere handful who
had neither herds nor many furs to exchange. Beaver-skins
constitute the chief article of trade at this point, though they
are all brought across Behring's Straits. Large numbers of
them are obtained every summer from the American natives,
who exchange them for reindeer-skins, to be used in the man
ufacture of their clothing.
February rolled by, and, in fact, so did the whole winter,
without the arrival of the expected Tchuctchus. The mer
chants were compelled to depart empty-handed. But the se
verest disappointment was for the inhabitants, who relied
mainly upon obtaining food from this source. Nevertheless,
some of them partially expected it, knowing that on former
occasions, almost invariably when the settled natives were in
destitute circumstances, those having deer had purposely kept
away, fearing lest they should have to donate large numbers
of their animals and receive nothing in return. Now we all
had to look to Ghijigha for supplies, and those of the natives
who had dogs held them in reserve for that trip. This made
it still more difficult for us to get transportation.
The Penjina sleds I had started February 4th to t^ie Gulf
Station for Macrae and party did not return to Markova un
til March 4th. They had a very severe journey up the Ana
dyr, and, to add to their gloom, lost one of their party-jJohn
Robinson — who died on the journey from inflammation of the
Gg

466 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
bowels. Upon leaving the station poor Robinson appeared
to be in perfect health, but four days afterward, on the 21st
of February, he died in Telegraph Bluff Yourt. A fearful
poorga was raging at the time, the wind blowing a perfect
hurricane, howling dismally about the solitary little hut, and
sweeping dense clouds of snow before it. Inside it was cold,
dark, and gloomy. A fire had been built in the chual,.but
it did not suffice to keep the room warm, as the moss chink
ing between the logs had been blown out in many places.
Through these cracks the wind found its way, driving be
fore it sheets of snow that sprinkled the apartment. Here,
stretched out on his skin bed, lay poor Robinson, breathing
his last far away from home and relatives, and with none
but the rough though willing hands of his hardy companions
to administer to his wants. It was most saddening under
the circumstances, but how immeasurably worse it would
have been without the shelter, imperfect as it was, of this
poor little hut. The thought of the protection it afforded to
the dying man a hundred fold compensated for the difficul
ties and privations we underwent while waiting for the wa
ters to subside, and in rafting during the spring months.
Up to the time of Mr. Macrae's departure from the station,
nothjng of note had transpired. He had succeeded in pur
chasing fifty deer to be used for dog-food for teams going to
the station. The party was in good health and spirits, de
voting fair days to dismantling the wreck, and hauling the
spars, cables, sails, and every thing of value ashore. In this
they were assisted by the two dogs Kiote and Nik; but
poor Nik came to a very unfortunate end soon afterward.
The deer-meat piled about the station attracted large num
bers of wolves from the neighboring tundra. One night a
large band of them dashed down to the very door ofthe sta
tion, and the next morning Nik's body was found literally
torn to pieces within a few paces ofthe sailor's house. Nik's
loss was much lamented by all the party, as he had become
a great favorite. He was by far the finest dog I had seen in
the country, being both large and handsome. One of the
Gate's crew — Young, a man six feet three inches in height in
his stockings, had also come very near having a like experi
ence with a pack of wolves.

' ,"\ "l ".life"-

ADVENTURE WITH WOLVES. 469
Three miles back ofthe station, on the tundra, were several
small lakes that the men frequently visited for the purpose
of fishing through the ice for trout. In this they were quite
successful, and nearly every fair day some of them would be
out with their lines, carrying axes with them to keep the
openings clear of ice. On this occasion Young was alone,
and had no protection except his axe. It was very common
to hear the howling of wolves on the adjoining tundra, but
the men had learned to pay no attention to it. While fish
ing near the middle of a small lake, Young was startled by
hearing cries of wolves very near by, and, glancing in the
direction from which the sound came, soon saw a large buck
reindeer dash down on to the lake and rush along the shore
within a hundred yards of him. A minute afterward, seven
full-grown, famished-looking wolves of very large size also
dashed down upon the lake at full speed, with heads and tails
in the air, following the tracks' of the deer. Young seized
his axe, but kept perfectly still, hoping the animals would not
perceive him. On they dashed, and were just about to pass
by, when, one of the pack catching sight of him, the whole
band rushed toward him. Anticipating a severe struggle, he
sprang to his feet, swinging his arms and the axe, and shout
ing at the top of his voice. The wolves were evidently not
expecting such an apparition, and were so struck with aston
ishment that they stopped immediately and squatted on the
ice within a hundred feet of him. But in a minute they
gained courage and made another dash for him. Having ob
served the effect of his first actions, he repeated them, but
this time with still greater vehemence-1— yelling, swinging his
axe, and starting toward them. They paused only for a mo
ment, and then fled, taking up the trail of the deer again.
After this episode Young at once took up his line of march
back toward the station, the worst scared man in Northeast
ern Siberia, according to his own statement, and fully resolv
ing never again to venture alone upon the tundra.

470 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

CHAPTER XXXI.
Telegraph-building under Difficulties. — Departure of Macrae for the Myan.
— Supplies in Penjina. — Stock on hand. — Non-arrival of Sleds from Ghi
jigha. — Surmises. — Off for the Okhotsk. — Penjina deserted. — Mr. Jared
Norton. — Arrangement with Cossacks. — The Journey. — At Ghijigha. —
Arnold in Trouble. — Departure of Supplies for the Myan. — Poorga. — Lost.
— Return. — Fresh Start. — Arrival of Anadyrsk and.Penjina Sleds. — Squar
ing Accounts. — Gambling Priests. — Difficulty of obtaining Transportation.
— Home Journey. — Sanford's Cache' and the Bears. — Penjina open. —
Anadyrsk Sleds. — Alarm for the Myan Party. — No News. — Failures. —
Supplies to the Rescue. — At Markova. — Macrae's Report : Commencing
Work. — Cutting Poles. — Sickness. — Reduced Supplies. — Suspension of
Work. — Illia Deackhoff. — Sleds from Crepast. — Men discouraged. — Field-
Party. — Off for the Orlofka. — Failure of Traps. — More Supplies. — Expe
dition to Koraks. — Olgan River. — Hard Journey. — Unsuccessful. — Return.
— Work discontinued. — Precarious Livelihood. — For Markova. — Buying
Horses. — Destitution. — Feeding the Men on Horse -meat. — Opportune
Arrival. — Preparations for Journey to Penjina. — Enormous Appetites. —
Start.- — Meat Sleds. — Return. — Provision. — Baxter's Departure with
Stores for the Myan. — Explanation. — Cause of Distress.
Immediately upon his arrival at Markova, after his trip
up the Anadyr, Macrae started for the Myan Rivers with the
men he had brought from the lower station, to take the com
mand of the parties at that place. He took with him all the
supplies in and about Anadyrsk, together with tobacco and
various articles for trading with the Koraks and Tchuctchus
for deer-meat. The most work he could accomplish would
be to cut the necessary poles for the Anadyr River and pre
pare them for rafting in the spring, except, perhaps, to cut
poles and distribute them by hand up the Myan as far as the
Orlofka. We now no longer retained any hope of procuring
sleds and dogs for the distribution of poles.
I was anxious for the party under Mr. Norton to work their
way up the Myan as far as possible, thereby lessening the
distance to Penjina, from which place, by direct route, there
would probably be no difficulty in supplying them, with the
assistance Mr. Kennan expected to be able to render from
Ghijigha. There still remained in Penjina a very good supply of pro-

TRIPS FOR SUPPLIES. 471
visions for us, brought by the ispravnik in the month of Jan
uary. To procure a portion of these to send to Macrae, I suc
ceeded in employing six teams from the natives by paying
them in deer from the Orlofka, and, on the 19th of March,
started them off for that place under the direction of Mr.
Jared Norton, who would remain there to receive, supplies
from Ghijigha, and forward them as fast as transportation
could be procured.
The day after Mr. Norton's departure, Koschevin arrived
from Penjina with two sled-loads of provision, and the sur
prising information that none other had reached that place
from Ghijigha since early in January. From this long delay
I judged at once that Kennan had been disappointed in se
curing the transportation he had expected. We had now a
supply sufficient to last the party until the 1st of May; but
after this would be the most difficult season in which to
procure food, and, unless other could be obtained from the
Okhotsk Sea, undoubtedly great suffering would ensue to
the party.
Macrae, during his journey up the Anadyr, had been obliged
to abandon at Camp Macrae the supply of salt provision in
tended for the season of high water, and now we had noth
ing to fall back upon. With these alarming facts staring us
in the face, our only alternative was to endeavor to procure
sleds here and at Penjina with which to proceed to Ghijigha
for supplies, and to return immediately. By starting at once
and traveling at the ordinary speed, supplies could be got in
time to prevent suffering. It was- now nearly time for those
natives who had been holding their dogs in reserve to make
their expected journey to Ghijigha also ; but their sleds
would be required to bring back supplies for their families
to prevent them from starving, consequently no assistance
could be obtained from them. Nevertheless, by the 26th
of March I had obtained four dog-teams, and immediately
started for Penjina to procure others, first notifying Mac
rae of my departure, and leaving a man at Markova to try
and purchase deer, as well as to forward supplies to the
Myan. On my way to Penjina I met the six nartas sent with Mr.
Norton returning laden with provision from that place.

472 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
These would sustain the party until my sleds could return
from the Okhotsk.
Upon arriving at Penjina, I found that place nearly desert
ed, all the inhabitants having gone off in search ofthe Koraks
for deer-meat, but was told that several sleds could be pro
cured for the transportation of our supplies upon their re
turn. For these I could not wait, so pushed on toward Ghi
jigha, pursuing the same route Macrae and I had followed
on our northward journey the previous spring. Before leav
ing Penjina I instructed Mr. Norton to forward supplies to
the Olgan to meet Mr. D. C. Norton's party, also to engage
all the sleds he could to come to Ghijigha after me, and like
wise made arrangements with some Cossacks to have deer
driven to the Myan and killed. At this time twenty-four
deer were on the way to the Myan for Macrae's party.
Our journey to Ghijigha was an uneventful one. The snow
was hard, and in good condition for traveling, and our sleds
being light, we effected the distance in the short space of
thirteen days from Markova. The temperature ranged from
+ 10° to —40° Fahrenheit. At the Korak settlements of
Shestakova and Coeil we procured dog -food, and on the
morning of April 9th entered the town, much to the sur
prise of Kennan, and Dodd, and a dozen other gentlemen
who had arrived the previous fall on the Company's barks
Onward and Clara Bell. Owing to the lateness of the sea
son, the Onward only reached Petropaulovski, and her pas
sengers, to reach Ghijigha, had made the winter journey
through Kamtchatka with dogs and deer.
Our conjectures about the difficulty of procuring transpor
tation from Ghijigha had been correct. Mr. Arnold's party
at Yamsk had also been in reduced circumstances, the dogs
at that place being nearly all dead too, and Mr. Kennan had
found it impossible to supply both him and the Myan River
party with the few dog-sleds at his command.
We arrived at Ghijigha April 9th, and on the 12th a se
vere poorga arose, making it impossible for my four sleds to
start back with supplies; but on the 13th the weather mod
erated again, and the sleds took their departure, with instruc
tions to proceed as rapidly as possible to Anadyrsk. They
had seventeen days in which to reach that place before Mac-

SQUARING ACCOUNTS. 473
rae's supplies would be exhausted. I remained, to return
with the Penjina sleds Mr. Jared Norton was to forward.
On the 14th the poorga again increased in fury, and contin
ued for two weeks almost without cessation. I felt much
anxiety for the four teams just departed on account of the
vast open- tundra they had to traverse, and feared they might
experience great delays, even if they should not be forced to
retrace their steps ; therefore was not much surprised, though
greatly disappointed, when, on the 1 9th, they came crawling
back into Ghijigha with empty sleds, and completely exhaust
ed. The poorga had caught them in the middle of the tun
dra, and for three days they had been wandering about, com
pletely lost. Upon starting they had but one night's food for
their dogs, expecting to get a supply at Coeil; consequently
their animals were now nearly famished. To lighten their
sleds they had been compelled to abandon their loads. Now
they had but eleven days in which to reach Markova. This
would be almost impossible with loaded sleds and their ex
hausted dogs, but no time was to be lost. After allowing
them one day for rest, we again loaded up their sleds and
started them off, with two additional nartas, on the 21st of
April, though the storm was still raging.
The Penjina and Anadyrsk sleds did not arrive at Ghijigha
until April 30th, having been detained on the way by bad
weather. The latter were twenty-eight days making the
same journey I had accomplished in thirteen days, but their
dogs were in a fearful condition at the start. Every thing
with four legs had been pressed into the service by the na
tives for this trip, with the hope of procuring supplies for
their families.
Hitherto we had been unable to pay but few of the na
tives in provision for past services on account of our own
pressed circumstances ; and, owing to some mismanagement
at head-quarters in New York, we had been wholly without
other means ; consequently, by this time, we found ourselves
more or less in debt to nearly every individual. We had
issued promissory notes payable in Ghijigha in provision, and,
upon the arrival ofthe sleds at that place, I had promised to
redeem them.
This was a most fortunate circumstance for the poor peo-

474 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
pie, for, after their notes were redeemed, their sleds were all
heavily loaded with substantial food. If, on the contrary,
they had been paid in money, the greater part, if not all of
it, would have been lost in gaming with the priest, who is
an expert in the business, and almost supports himself and
family upon the furs and roubles gotten in this way from the
natives. He and the Ghijigha priest, almost every winter,
enter into a copartnership, and travel among the Koraks on
a gambling tour, from which they frequently return laden
with valuable furs. During his stay in Ghijigha (for he came
with the Anadyrsk sleds), this " spiritual adviser" ofthe poor
unfortunates dependent upon his guidance was in a continual
state of intoxication.
I had much difficulty in procuring transportation for the
necessary quantity of supplies for the Myan party, and only
effected it by distributing them in small lots among a large
number of nartas. With the last of these I left Ghijigha
May 3d, fifteen days later than Macrae and I had started the
year before. Messrs. Rourke and Pierson, two of Mr. Ken-
nan's party, accompanied me to Penjina, where Mr. Sanford,
with a small party, had preceded them, for the purpose of
cutting and rafting poles on the Penjina River.
The tundras along Penjinsk Gulf were nearly free from
snow, making very difficult traveling. We also found it
nearly impossible to ascend the Shestakova River on account
of open water, but north ofthe Crebet or ridge it was colder,
and the traveling better. At the Aklan River Sanford had
been obliged to cache some of his provision, his loads being
too heavy. Upon our arrival we found that bears had been
at his cach6, and destroyed every thing excepting half a doz
en axes, which they probably found unpalatable.
Opposite the town of Penjina the Penjina River was near
ly free of ice, so much so that, upon our arrival at that place
on the 14th of May, we had to be ferried across the river in
carbasses. Here I was much alarmed at finding the first
sleds I had sent back from Ghijigha with supplies for Macrae's
party. . They had but just arrived after a journey of twenty-
two days, in which they lost several of their dogs. These
sleds ought to have reached the Myan by May 3d at the or
dinary rate of traveling.

MACRAE AT MARKOVA. 475
This long delay occasioned great anxiety for the safety of
that party, whose supplies must have utterly given out some
days since. Mr. Norton had received no information from
them for more than three weeks, and was therefore unable to
judge of their condition. The supply sleds were immediate
ly dispatched upon our arrival, to proceed without delay to
the Myan.
Mr. Norton informed me that directly after my departure
for the Okhotsk all the dogs able to travel left both Ana
dyrsk and Penjina for that place also, depriving him utterly
of all possibility of forwarding supplies. The deer-meat on
the Orlofka had all been consumed by passing teams, and it
was impossible to procure dry food, else he might have se
cured one team by gathering together the stray, useless dogs
that had been left behind. But it would have been neces
sary for these to haul deer from Penjina for their own sus
tenance while on the road, of which, in their present feeble
condition, they could not have carried more than three days'
supply, even without other load. Under these circumstances,
it was useless for him to attempt a journey often or twelve
days' duration, which time would have been consumed in go
ing to and coming from the Myan. The Cossacks, with whom
I had made arrangements, had also failed in inducing the
Koraks to drive their herds down the Myan on account of
the depth of snow, though they were offered their own price
for so doing.
Many of the stores just arrived from Ghijigha had been
brought on Penjina nartas, and, as these could go no farther
on account of the lateness of the season, we were now con
fronted by new difficulties. Fortunately, Mr. Sanford had
a team of dogs of his own, which I secured, and, by offering
big inducements to the Anadyrsk drivers, they managed to
pile the remainder of my stores on their sleds for the trip to
Anadyrsk. When all the supplies had been forwarded, Mr.
Norton and I took our departure from Penjina, and, after four
days' journey, reached Markova May 21st.
Here we found Macrae and four of his men living with the
natives, and subsisting upon any thing they could get to eat.
The remainder ofthe party were yet on the Myan in a very
precarious condition, living upon horse-meat, and many of

476 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
them down with sickness. They had led a very anxious life
for the last month, and had undergone considerable hardship.
Macrae's report, which I here subjoin, will convey a much
better idea of the experiences of his party on the Myan than
I could otherwise furnish. MACRAE'S REPORT.
Markova, N. E. Siberia, June 4th, 1867.
Sir, — My last report to you gave you an account of the
progress ofthe work at the Myan Station to March 10th.
On the 13th ofthe same month, the weather having cleared
up, which had been stormy for a week previous, Mr. Frost
moved up to a slew on the Olgan with his four constructors,
and on the same day Mr. Norton started out with his party
of six, cutting and distributing poles on the Myan section.
I divided with Mr. Norton my provisions, which gave each
party ten days' rations of hard bread, tea, twenty-five pounds
of bacon, and two deer each, which you sent down at this time
from Crepast. Before going to work cutting poles, Mr. Frost
constructed a small cabin fifteen feet square, as the weather
was too severe for camping out — the mean temperature of
the nights being below —30°, as far as I could judge without
a thermometer. In order to forward the work as much as
possible, I sent Frank to cook for Mr. Frost's party, and Mr.
Baxter and myself brought in wood and water, and cooked
for ourselves.
The snow in the timber was from four to five feet deep,
and, as the men were without snow-shoes, two thirds of their
time was occupied in passing from one tree to another, and
they only averaged thirty poles to a man each day that they
worked. There was, however, scarcely a time when some of the par
ty, and sometimes the whole, were not unfit for duty on ac
count of severe diarrhoea which attacked every one. I had
no medicine except laudanum and opium pills, which the se
vere cold made me cautious in using. On the 21st of March,
our provision being reduced to two days' supply of hard
bread and deer-meat, I ordered the work suspended and the
men placed on half rations. Up to that time Mr. Baxter and
myself lived upon fish furnished by Illia,* and I will take oc
casion here to say that whenever he caught any fish or game
he divided them with us, and on several occasions took Mr.
* Illia Deachkoff, the native who had settled on the Myan, near the Olgan,
the previous summer, mentioned on a former page.

MACRAE'S REPORT. ill
Norton's party a supply. He was ever willing and ready
with his sled to assist us, and, without his assistance, I would
have been unable to send to Mr. Norton the supplies which
reached me from you. The men from Markova and Crepast
being invariably without food for. themselves or dogs, he al
ways fed them and their dogs while they were' at the station.
On the 25th two sleds arrived from Crepast with flour and
hard bread, and on the same day Mr. Norton and party came
in used up, not having slept for three nights on account of
the severe cold. Reports were circulated among the men
that you could not procure sleds to send us provisions, which
produced a bad feeling, and made them very uneasy and dis
contented. I attributed the diarrhoea to the entire absence of grease
of any kind with our food, and wishing to see you on these
subjects, and also, if possible, to procure sleds to go to the
Koraks for deer, I left the station and proceeded to Crepast,
arriving there on the evening of the 26th.
I was much surprised to receive a note from you stating
that you would start that morning for Ghijigha, and to learn
that you had gone.
All the natives were preparing to leave for Ghijigha, with
every team that was able to travel. With one or two excep
tions, the families at Crepast were living from hand to mouth
on birds and rabbits, and they represented the people above
Markova to be in a starving condition. I offered to go with
them to the Koraks, and, if I succeeded in purchasing fifty
deer, would give them thirty. This I considered a sufficient
inducement to secure them for the trip, even if they were not
in such a sad state as they represented themselves to be.
They promised to make every effort to get sleds and go with
me. Next I hired the starasta's narta at a high price, and re
turned to the station.
April 3d, Mr. Norton having recruited his party, and the
weather having moderated somewhat, he again started out,
taking with him ten days' rations in hard bread, beans, deer-
meat, tea, and sugar, the latter as a luxury.
In your note to me, you said, " Tell Mr. Norton to push on
to the Orlofka, as we shall be able to supply him from Pen
jina when he reaches that point." He also received a note
from you to the same effect. I wrote to Lieutenant Norton,
A. Q. M. at Penjina, that Mr. Norton's party would be at the
mouth of the Orlofka River on the 12th of April, and repre
sented to him the serious position in which they would be
placed if there were not provisions there to meet them.

478 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
The weather continued very fine, but intensely cold for the
season. I judged the temperature at nights to be at least
30° below zero up to the 12th of April.
After the 25th of March Illia's fish-traps failed, and from
that time Mr. Baxter and myself supplied ourselves with meat
from grouse and rabbit traps, and sometimes we sent up a
supply to Mr. Frost's party. We did not care to eat deer-
meat when we could get any other kind.
April 11th, Mr. Frost's provisions being reduced to two
days' rations of beans and deer-meat, he again stopped work,
and I ordered all the men to set traps.
On the 13th Mr. Harder arrived with four sleds, bringing
five deer, four sacks of flour, two sacks of beans, ten pounds
of bacon, and an abundant supply of tea. He brought me a
note from Lieutenant Jared Norton, saying he could not hire
sleds to go by the way of the Orlofka River, and that the
provisions at Penjina were reduced to two sacks of flour, one
box of hard bread, ten pounds of bacon, thirty pounds of tea,
and one hundred pounds of sugar, and, as he did not mention
deer, I took it for granted that they too were exhausted.
These men came with Mr. Harder to go to the Koraks on the
conditions I made to them at Crepast. They had but one
day's food for their dogs, so I could not get them to go to
the Orlofka with supplies for Mr. Norton's party ; besides, it
was uncertain whether they would find Mr. Norton there or
not, as he had some intention of proceeding to Penjina in the
event of his finding no provisions at the Orlofka.
One ofthe natives said he knew the exact spot where the
Koraks were camped, that they had plenty of deer for sale,
and distant, with good road, only one day's drive. It was
my last and only chance of procuring meat to supply the
parties during the freshet, when it is impossible to go any
where. I therefore made preparations to go. A storm de
tained me two days.
Having little faith in the miserable dogs that came down
from Crepast, even for one day's drive, I persuaded Illia to
go with me. I placed Mr. Frost's party on a ration of one
pound of flour until my return, and left instructions with
Lieutenant Baxter to do the same with Mr. Norton's party,
should they come in.
The morning of the 16th was clear and calm, and we got
off early. I took with me three of the five deer Harder had
brought for dog-food, and Illia furnished us with some old
fish for the road ; I also took three days' rations of hard bread
and plenty of tea.

MACRAE'S REPORT. 479
Mr. Frost's party of six men ate one of the best of the deer
at four meals, so you can judge of their size and quality.
The last storm made the snow heavy, and we got along
slowly, having to walk on snow-shoes most of the day. We
traveled thirty miles, aud camped on the northeast fork ofthe
Olgan, some ten miles from where we expected to find the
Koraks. A heavy snow-storm set in during the night from
the east, the direction in which we wished to go. We pushed
into it, however, the next day, and came to the deserted camp
ofthe Koraks. They had evidently just moved, as the storm
had not covered up their tracks. Our guide then said we
would find them on the southeast fork, distant about fifty
miles. We followed their trail into the mountains separating
the two streams, and at night had only traveled about twen
ty-five miles, every one being upon snow-shoes breaking the
way or assisting the dogs. The next day the storm increased
in violence, with such dense clouds of snow drifting through
the mountain passes that we could not proceed with the sleds.
I offered each man thirty roubles if they would go in search
ofthe Koraks on snow-shoes, myself remaining with the sleds,
as I was weak from diarrhoea, and could not stand to walk
much farther. They replied that if there was the slightest
chance of finding the Koraks in the storm, they would go
without pay.
The next morning, our provisions being reduced to one fish
and a few pounds of hard bread, and our dog-food being en
tirely exhausted, and the storm still raging, we could not ad
vance against it or lie still. I reluctantly turned my back
upon it, fully appreciating the consequences of not being able
to procure a supply of meat. ,
That day we traveled but twelve miles, dragging the sleds
ourselves, and, but for Illia's team, would have had to aban
don the articles I took to trade with the Koraks.
We ate the last of our fish that night, and the next morn
ing, though it was snowing heavily, we made an early start,
our snow-shoes sinking six inches in the wet snow in the
morning, but in the afternoon it cleared up and the snow
hardened, so that we were able to reach the station at 10
P.M., having walked forty miles during the day.
Mr. Norton and four of his men had arrived two days be
fore, the other two members of his party remaining at the
Orlofka, unwilling to undertake the walk.
Two days after my return the sleds left for Markova, and
I sent Mr. Scammon up with them on snow-shoes to send
down three deer which had come from Penjina some time

480 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
before, and also to hurry off the sleds as soon as they should
arrive from Ghijigha.
After this no work was done. Mr. Frost's party had cut
two hundred and fifty poles at the Myan Station, and nine
teen hundred at his camp on the Olgan ; these, with what we
cut last year, and with those Mr. Norton cut before my ar
rival, amount to nearly five thousand poles. Mr. Frost also
made six good sweeps for rafting, each thirty feet long, and
a good boat to accompany the raft. The boat is light, and
will answer admirably for setting fish-nets, etc. ; there should
be one with each raft.
Mr. Norton, Baxter, and myself kept the traps we had
made in order, and with what game we caught in them, and
some game Illia and Constantine gave us, we got enough to
eat, using one pound of flour at a ration. At this time a
large herd of deer passed near Mr. Frost's camp, and he killed
three of them. They were, however, like those we received
from Penjina, small, poor, and without grease — not fit to eat
except in the absence of all other meat. I had made calcu
lations for my provision to hold out until the 1st of May, at
which time I expected to receive supplies from Ghijigha for
two reasons — first, because I knew you would hurry the sleds
back; and, secondly, the men from Markova and Crepast ex
pected to spend their Easter Sunday at home, which would
be the 28th of April.
By the 1st of May the weather had become very warm,
and the snow was melting rapidly. The birds left the rivers
for the tundras, and our rabbit-traps, upon which we relied
for meat, began to fail, and still not a word from Ghijigha.
We had on hand at that time seven rabbits and twenty
pounds of beans. Something had to be done at once. As
it would not do to rely upon that uncertain mode of procur
ing a livelihood, I determined to go to Markova.
Illia and Constantine were going up the next day, believ
ing that the sleds had reached Markova from Ghijigha, and
that the natives were drinking tea and dancing out their
Easter week, as is their custom. I did not believe the Ghi
jigha sleds had arrived, but I could send down the deer I
had sent Mr. Scammon for, and, if absolutely necessary, pur
chase some of the horses belonging to the priest for food.
The evening of the 2d I left the station, taking with me
one rabbit and two pounds of bread (part of a little I had
been saving for sickness), with a sufficient supply of tea. Of
tea we always had an abundance, and but for it we would
have suffered much more than we did. Fortunately the trav-

MACRAE'S REPORT. 481
eling was good, and I rode half of the way. Without that
assistance I should have had great trouble getting through,
as I was extremely weak and very sick.
The next day, at 10 A.M., the whole population of Markova
turned out to greet us, thinking ours were the Ghijigha sleds
— not one having as yet returned, though some of them had
been absent forty-five days. I was asked to the house of
Parvil Murdofskoi (where it was likely I could get more to
eat than elsewhere), and had the breast of a grouse for my
supper, which was all I had eaten for twenty-four hours, with
the exception of tea and hard bread — the dogs had eaten up
my rabbit.
I immediately called upon the priest's wife, and offered to
purchase the horses. My object in buying them was not only
for food (for we could not use many of them before the sleds
should arrive from Ghijigha), but also for hauling poles to
the river bank for rafting, and, later, for distributing them
along the line. She would not sell' all of them in the ab
sence of her husband, as it was possible he had already sold
them in Ghijigha, but would let me have one for food, should
I require it. She could only give me a cup of tea and a small
piece of black bread, and said that, unless the sleds arrived
soon, she would have to kill horses for her own family. In
fact, the people on this river at that time depended entirely
upon their fish-nets for food, and, if they did not catch fish at
nights, they went hungry the next day. I could therefore
procure no provisions here other than horse-meat.
Next day, the 5th, I started Illia and Constantine off with
the three deer, giving them half of one I found in the store
house for their dogs. These would last the hungry party at
the Myan but as many days, but Illia told me he had been
saving four deer for his family to eat during the freshet, which
he would give my party in the last extremity.
Tuesday, May 1th. — No sleds having arrived from Ghiji
gha, I sent two men off with a horse which I had purchased,
having to borrow from Ivan Ermechkoff, of Crepast, meat to
give them for the road, he being the only man here or at that
place that was able to furnish me with two days' dog-food for
two men. I sent a note to Mr. D. C. Norton not to kill the
horse unless forced to do so, as we could use him for hauling
poles to the river bank when we got to building rafts. Fri
day evening, the time at which I expected the horse to reach
the station, I was surprised at the return of one of the men,
who said that they had only reached Crepast, and could not
proceed farther.
Hh

482 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
Two sleds had come in that morning from the mouth ofthe
Myan, looking for the Ghijigha sleds. I knew the party must
now be out of provision at the Myan Station, so hired these
teams, paying them each ten roubles, and, putting them to
gether before one sled, went at once to Crepast and had the
horse killed. I got together the refuse dogs of Crepast for
another team, and started the two off with the meat the fol
lowing evening. At Crepast I found two of the men from
Mr. Frost's party, whom he had sent up, thinking by divid
ing the party they could get along better. They told me
that, since my departure, little game had been caught.
I returned to Markova that night on snow-shoes, and found
two men just arrived from Penjina, who informed me that
provisions had been brought to that place twenty days be
fore this date, May 12th; that an American at Penjina owned
a good team of dogs, and, by paying enough for them, I could
get two others from the natives there. I at once set to work
collecting together enough dogs for a team, picking up one
here and another there, to take me to Penjina, thinking, in
all probability, the Ghijigha sleds were land-bound, and would
yet be, some time in coming in, as the men reported the land
almost bare of snow below Penjina.
The next morning the sleds returned from the Myan with
a note from Mr. Norton saying that when the horse-meat ar
rived they had the last piece of meat in the kettle, and had
all become so weak on deer-meat as scarcely to be able to
get around.
The traps had failed, and no geese had come. On the
morning of the 18th I had collected together the frames of
eight animals that might have been called dogs, and a man
who was greatly in need ofthe horse's tail for a fish-net gave
me forty grouse for that article, which I would use for dog-
food. I was just ready to start, when Illia drove up with Lieu
tenant Baxter and two of the men, who had walked upon
snow-shoes. They brought me the surprising information
that the horse -meat would only last the party two days
longer. As there were five hundred pounds of it, and it was very
fat,I had expected it to last twelve or fifteen days. You can
judge how well it was relished, and form some idea of what
men will eat when reduced to a single article of food, when
that amount of horse-meat only lasted ten men six days.
I bought another horse, and ordered it killed at once. I
persuaded Illia to go with me to Penjina, and was rejoiced

MACRAE'S REPORT. 483
to exchange my skeleton dogs for his team, and sent the for
mer to the Myan with the meat.
I wrote to Mr. Norton that I had to pay one hundred rou
bles for the horse, and he must make this meat hold out un
til my return. (Fortunately, I did not have to pay this price,
as the horses had been previously purchased by Mr. Kennan
at Ghijigha for twenty-five roubles apiece.)
My provisions for the road to Penjina consisted of four
small fish, a small piece of half-spoiled deer-meat — all the
population of this place could furnish me — and a piece of
horse-meat which I furnished myself.
We left Markova that night, the 15th of May, and on the
morning ofthe 17th, when forty miles from Penjina, we met
some sleds returning from Ghijigha. The drivers said that
you would leave Penjina that evening, and would pass that
point about midnight.
I laid over, awaiting your arrival, until 8 A.M. the next
morning, when more sleds came up, and I was told that you
would not leave Penjina until that afternoon.
As they could give me food for myself and dogs for the
road, and as five sleds had gone on to Markova with our pro
visions, I turned back, and reached here on the morning of
the 19th, so unwell that I could scarcely keep my feet. The
following evening I sent Lieutenant Baxter, with the best
two teams in the place, with provisions for the party at the
Myan Station, and on the morning ofthe 21st was relieved
by your arrival.
I am too unwell to give this report the consideration it
should receive, and only at your earnest request have given
you this plain statement of facts. Very respectfully, your
obedient servant, C. L. Maceae.
The above report, given exactly as Mr. Macrae submitted
it, requires no explanation, except perhaps in relation to the
information he received at Markova concerning the arrival
in Penjina of an American with supplies and a dog-team of
his own on or about the 20th of April.
Without farther explanation, one might infer neglect on
the part of Mr. Norton, acting quartermaster at Penjina, in
not securing the sleds spoken of and forwarding these sup
plies, but justice to Mr. Norton, for whose strenuous exer
tions to procure and forward supplies I shall always feel deep
ly grateful, requires me to state that the American spoken
of was Mr. Sanford, and that his supply of provision was so

484 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
small that he could not dispense with a pound of it without
imperiling his own and the safety of his party.
It is true, he had a team of dogs, and it might have been
possible to procure one or two others ; but, even had there
been supplies in Penjina to forward, no dog-food was to be
had excepting a scant supply of deer-meat, which it would
have been necessary to carry with them from Penjina. This,
in itself, in sufficient quantity to sustain the teams during
their journey to the Myan and back, would have been more
than the animals could haul in their feeble condition, even
without other load. Every opportunity of forwarding sup
plies this gentleman had availed himself of,* and, had all he
sent reached its destination on the Myan, the party at that
place would have had no ground for anxiety.
Upon making inquiries afterward, I found that but little
more than half of the deer forwarded from Penjina had been
received at the Myan. The remainder had been appropriated
by the native drivers for the support of their families.

NORTON'S REPORT. 485

CHAPTER XXXH.
Zeal of the Men.— D. C. Norton's Report: his Party.— Cold Weather. —
Frostbites.— Native Endurance. — Difficulty from Ereezing. — Myan Sta^
tion. — Outdoor Work. — Effect of Cold on Axes. — Distributing Poles. —
Camps 1, 2, and 3. — Sleepless Nights. — Out of Food. — Retreat to the Sta
tion. — In the Field again. — Orlofka River. — No Sleds. — Building Camp.
— Erecting Signals. — Snow-blindness. — Trapping Grouse. — Supplies give
out. — Colburn and Nesbit. — Off for the Station. — Lost in a Storm. — Scant
Supplies. — Arduous Journey. — Breaking Roads. — Cheerless Night. —
Home again. — Used-up Set. — Sufferings of Myan Party. — Anxiety. —
Baxter's Return. — Sleds for the Myan. — Loveman : his Account and Ad
venture. — Lost on the Tundra. — Bears. — Despair. — Through the Ice. —
Returning Sleds. — Search. — Yelping Dogs.- — Narrow Escape. — Arrival of
Myan Party. — Forgetful of the Past. — Re-enlisting.— Stock on Hand. —
Robinson's Remains. — Starving Dogs. — Break-up of the Rivers. — Off for
the Myan.— Boating and Towing. — Happy Natives. — Success in spearing
Deer. — Feasting. — The River. — Wild Water-fowl. — A bad Place. — Set
Adrift. — Illia again.— Deserved Success. — A Deer. — Taking his Stand. —
Glorious Sight. — Sympathy. — Constantine. — The Onslaught. — The Vic
tims. — Provoking Circumstances. — Miss Fire. — Small Triumph. — Dis
gust. — Deer-snares. — Watching for Deer. — Precautions. — Arrival. — De
parture. — Ivan Ermechkoff.
The following extracts from Mr. Norton's Report of the
proceedings of himself and party after leaving Anadyrsk for
the Myan, early in February, will convey some idea of the
difficulties attending telegraph building in the Arctic with
nothing but axes and determined natures wherewith to ac
complish it. These men displayed so much zeal, and under
went so many discomforts, if not actual suffering, in the pros
ecution of the work assigned them, that it would be hardly
justice not to follow them through a portion of their experi
ence at least.
• Mr. Norton, in company with Messrs. Mason, Nesbit, Smith,
Colburn, and Scammon, left Markova with sleds and provis
ions on the 9 th of February. In his report he says :
We proceeded the first day to Crepast, and the following
morning pushed on for the Myan Station. The first day from
Markova the thermometer indicated —54° Fahrenheit, but, as

486 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
we had good and abundant food, we did not experience much
inconvenience from this seeming extreme degree of cold. The
morning ofthe 10th seemed to be somewhat warmer, at least
to me, as I walked all the forenoon with nothing but a short
coat and ordinary pants; but when we stopped for tea at
noon, I found that the air was intensely cold. We had not
felt it on account of the exercise in walking. When we
started again after tea, I found I could scarcely keep warm
sitting on the narta with two skin coats.
We traveled until about sundown, having only made about
half the distance between Crepast and this station, and camped
on the bank of the protok, convenient to plenty of dry wood.
This proved probably the coldest night ever spent in the open
air by any of the Company's employes, having been wfthin
one degree of the greatest cold observed by Dr. Kane in his
Arctic Expedition (his observation being 69° below zero, and
ours 68°).
Even at this intense degree of cold, I observed that the na
tive drivers slept soundly in their fur kuklankers, not appear
ing to know that it was very cold. I slept none, keeping up
the fire by heaping dry wood on, which we had collected in
the evening.
I roused the men at half past 2 o'clock A.M. ; they made
tea, boiled deer-meat, of which we made breakfast, with hard
bread, and -then started about 3.30 A.M.
We all had great difficulty in keeping from freezing ; some
were frozen slightly, notwithstanding every precaution : fin
gers, toes, ears, and noses suffered some damage. The wind,
which was very slight, blew in the direction we were travel
ing — southeast.
We arrived at the station about 3 o'clock P.M. on the 11th,
and found that the house was uninhabitable, being nothing
but an open pen of logs. However, we set to work immedi
ately, banking up the snow to keep the cold from without,
and got our cooking -stove up to lower the temperature
within. But all deserted the place except two for more
comfortable quarters in the small yourt of a native living
near the station.
The 13th was entirely occupied in fixing the house, in which
I slept the second night, or rather passed the night, not being
able to sleep on account ofthe intense cold, which still ranged
from 50° to 65° minus.
The 14th, 15th, and 16th were spent in chinking the house
with deerskin and building a chual. After having finished
these we began to experience some degree of comfort.

NORTON'S REPORT. 487
From this time until the 7th of March, upon which day Mr.
Macrae arrived to take charge of the station, Mr. Norton's
party were engaged in constructing a small storehouse and
cutting poles about the station. The weather was yet in
tensely cold, and many of his party sustained frostbites, but
nothing very serious.
During this severe weather the men found it very hard
work chopping into the frozen trees, and, contrary to their
expectations, hardly an axe was nicked, though dozens of
hickory axe-helves shivered to pieces with the jar occasioned
by chopping. The severe cold, instead of rendering the axes
brittle, appeared to have an opposite effect, though this may
be perhaps attributable to the large amount of electricity in
the air, which pervaded the metal.
On the 13th of March Mr. Norton and party started out
from the station to cut and distribute poles along the Myan
River toward Penjina. This outfit consisted of a couple of
canvas tents for shelter, ten days' supply of provisions, and a
sled (without the dogs) upon which to haul their supplies
from one camp to another, and with which to distribute the
poles where wanted. Illia assisted them the first day with
his dogs in hauling their supplies and locating their first
working camp about four miles from the station. This gen
erous Chuansee also increased their commissariat by a pres
ent of a number of fine fish freshly caught through the ice.
By the 23d the party had cut and distributed poles as far
as Prospect Bluff, about twenty miles, using three working
camps, styled Camps No. 1, No. 2, and No. 3. During this
time the weather had been clear and very cold, and their
stock of provision had been replenished by the arrival of two
reindeer sent from the station. Mr. Norton's notes read as
follows :
Saturday, 23d. — Still colder this morning. All agree in
pronouncing it as the coldest weather yet experienced dur
ing the winter. We intended to have moved camp this
morning, but, owing to the intense cold, did not. We sup
pose it 50° minus, as we had some Cognac brandy frozen in
the tent.
Monday, 25th. — Colder than yesterday. None of us slept
last night. While eating breakfast around a great camp-fire,

488 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
we had to change our tin cups from one hand to the other to
keep them from freezing.
As our provisions were nearly exhausted, we concluded
to evacuate Camp No. 3 and find more comfortable quarters
at the station. We packed what we could not carry with
us in the tents, taking with us two days' rations. About
that much was left. We fastened on our snow-shoes and
struck out for the station, twenty miles distant, each one car
rying some portion of the provisions. We arrived at the
station at 3 P.M., rather a used-up set, having slept but little
for five nights. We found, to our great satisfaction, a fresh
supply of provision had just arrived from Markova.
Upon Mr. Norton's return Mr. Macrae went to Markova,
leaving him in charge of the station.
On the 2d of April the party again took the field, and, upon
reaching their last camp, found all right except, the sled, from
which foxes had eaten the seal-thong lashings.
They established a new camp, No. 4, five miles farther, the
next day. " Still very cold and clear. On the 6th of April
Mason froze his feet so badly that he could scarcely get back
to camp."
Wednesday, 10th. — Extremely cold. Signs of a snow-storm.
Concluded to take one man and proceed to the mouth of the
Orlofka River, to see whether any nartas had arrived by that
way with provisions from Penjina.
Thursday, 11th. — Mr. Smith and myself started this morn
ing on snow-shoes for the Orlofka. Arrived at the river
about 3 P.M. ; found no signs of nartas having been there.
We erected signals to direct them to our camp, should they
come. Here Mr. Norton found abundant signs of grouse, and, his
provisions being low, he decided to move his party up to this
place, and to try and subsist them upon game until the ex
pected sleds could arrive from Penjina with stores. On the
12 th of April they proceeded fifteen miles, hauling their camp
equipage themselves, and the next morning, after a sleepless
night on account of the extreme cold, they pushed on four
miles farther to the river, which they came upon unexpect
edly. Even during this short distance they were obliged to
halt once and build a fire for the purpose of warming them
selves.-

NORTON'S REPORT. 489
Mr. Norton's report says :
I directed the men to make another fire to keep themselves
comfortable, while I went in search of a suitable place to camp,
which I found about two miles from where we first came to
the river, on an island where there was some shelter and plen
ty of -wood. No signs of nartas yet. I sent Mr. Smith for the
narta and men, while I made a fire, and commenced to shovel
the snow away for the camp. We were all suffering from
snow-blindness ; I could scarcely see at all. While some of
the party were making camp, Mr. Smith and myself com
menced making and setting traps. We set six during the
afternoon, and put up other signals to direct nartas to our
camp. Sunday, 14^.— This morning we had two grouse in our
traps. Made thirteen more traps. Signs of an approaching
storm ; we cut brush and planted it on three sides of the
camp, to protect us from the wind. Stormy night ; not quite
so cold ; two inches of snow fell. We ate our last mess of
beans for dinner; we have a little deer-meat, 'hardtack,' and
about three pounds of sugar and tea.
From the 12th to the 17th the party remained camped at
the mouth of the Olgan, waiting for the sleds from Penjina.
They constructed a number of other traps, which kept them
very well supplied with grouse for food ; and at the end of
this time, seeing or hearing nothing ofthe sleds, they decided
to try and reach the station. But two of the party, Colburn
and Nesbit, were unwilling to attempt the walk on so small
an amount of provision, preferring rather to remain behind
and risk catching enough grouse to supply their wants. All
the party were at this time much stricken with snow-blind
ness. April 11th. — Smith, Burton, Mason, Scammon, and myself
left camp this morning for the station, after having partaken
of a very slight breakfast of deer- meat and one hardtack.
The distance is about fifty miles. We only took for the road
three hardtack each, a little sugar and tea, and set out, after
bidding Colborn and Nesbit good-by, expecting to reach the
station in one day. A short time after starting a storm came
up, with snow and wind, so that all landmarks were entirely
obscured ; but, fortunately, we were able to reach the point
to which we had cut and distributed poles for the line with
out losing our way. We now had something by which to
direct our course through the storm, which continued, and, if

490 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
any thing, increased in fury. We reached Camp No. 5 about
noon, and made tea and ate one of the hardtack each. The
storm had now abated some, and the sun shone out for a
short time, when we hoped that we would have no farther
trouble in keeping on our course. But shortly after starting
the storm commenced with more violence than ever, blowing
the snow directly in our faces, causing us to lose our way,
and lengthening our journey by three miles at least.
We were becoming well tired out after finding the line
again, which we did near sundown. We now made tea again,
and ate our hardtack, still intending, if possible, to reach the
station, which was yet about eighteen miles distant. We
again set forward, making good headway. Up to this time
I had taken the lead in breaking the trail, and I now began
to feel exhausted, so fell back and let Mr. Mason take the
lead, which he only kept for two or three miles, and then fell
back, Burton taking the lead. We found the tea and hard
bread were not very good for strengthening exhausted mus
cles. Night was rapidly coming on, and we were still about
twelve miles from the station. We were now staggering
rather than walking, feeling rather than seeing our way.
Sometimes we were on the trail and sometimes off, dragging
our weary legs along through the deep snow.
At about 10 P.M. we arrived at Camp No. 2, and could
go no farther. We stopped, and with great difficulty made
a fire, some of the men in the mean time trying to make a
shelter out of brush to protect us from the storm. We par
tially succeeded in the shelter, but the wind changed so it
did but little good. We made our cups full of tea again.
This truly Siberian solace warmed us up some, and we began
to feel more comfortable. We lay down in the shelter of
the brush, but not to sleep, as I knew that it would not do
to go to sleep, as we might become so benumbed by the cold
that we might freeze to death.
After lying down for an hour, I roused the men up, and we
went out in search of dry wood with which to make a good
fire. We found plenty close by, and soon had a good fire,
and were sitting around it discussing with empty stomachs
the chances of finding any thing to satisfy the cravings of
our appetites. We watched anxiously for the first streaks
of the coming dawn in the east with eager and impatient
eyes. We were cheered by the gray of morning about 3
o'clock, and commenced immediately to prepare our morning
meal, which consisted of tea " straight." After drinking it
we prepared for the last struggle to reach the station.

NORTON'S REPORT. 491
We had the worst portion of the road to pass over this
morning, some deep ravines having to be crossed. In going
over some of these the men would stagger and fall, and could
not get on their feet again without assistance. However, the
knowledge that we were within only a few miles of the sta
tion kept our strength up equal to the demand on it. We
reached Camp No. 1 about sunrise, and threw ourselves down
for a little rest before going farther. I urged the men to take
only a short rest, as I knew the longer we remained without
moving the less inclination we would feel to do so. After a
few minutes we started forward again. We now put Scam-
mon in the lead, as he seemed less exhausted than any of us,
having had the benefit of going behind, where the trail had
been thoroughly broken. In this way we reached the station
about 7 o'clock A.M., twenty-four hours from the time of
leaving the mouth of the Orlofka. Had the distance been
twenty miles farther, I doubt whether any of us would have
reached it. Some of the men, when they came to the bank
of the river, could not get up without assistance.
We were glad to find that a supply of provisions had ar
rived a day or two before from Penjina. After remaining
at this station until Lieutenant Macrae returned, I sent Illia
and Constantine with their nartas to bring Colborn and Nes
bit down. They did not suffer much from hunger, having
been able to catch enough grouse to keep them pretty well.
In a few days after I sent the same men up again to bring
down our camp fixtures, which they did.
I will take this occasion to bring to your favorable notice,
and, through you, the officers of the Company, the many kind
favors we have received from Illia on many occasions. We
would be almost reduced to the last mouthful when a pres
ent of fish or deer-meat would be sent in by him. I person
ally shall ever feel grateful to him for the many favors re
ceived at his hands. Very respectfully, etc.,
D. C. Noeton.
It was not until after this date that the party on the Myan
experienced their greatest anxiety. At no time were they
altogether destitute of provisions, though on several occasions
they were reduced to their last day's allowance of food, when,
by the timely arrival of supplies from Markova, or a present
from Illia, or a fortunate catch with their traps, their stock
would again be increased. But these precarious and uncer
tain resources, together with the faint glimpses they from

492 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
time to time caught of the monster " famine," caused them
great anxiety, and the whole party became very low-spirited.
This was much increased by weakness and inertia resulting
from the sickness with which they were nearly all afflicted.
The delay occasioned to the provision sleds from Ghijigha
by severe storms, which raged for weeks without cessation in
the neighborhood ofthe Okhotsk, was extremely unfortunate.
Upon reaching Penjina, and finding the first return sleds still
there, I experienced the greatest anxiety for the safety of the
Myan party, and when, upon arriving at Markova, I found
Macrae, and learned that they had managed to sustain life
during the interval, my relief was equally as great.
On the 22d of May, Baxter, who had started for the Myan
with supplies immediately upon the arrival of the sleds, re
turned to Markova, having been unable to reach the station
on account of open water encountered in the protoks.
As our stores were now all in Markova, and it would be
easier to bring the men from the Myan with the present dif
ficult roads than to carry all our provision to that place, I
immediately dispatched a sufficient number of sleds for that
purpose under Loveman, a lad of seventeen, one of the party
then in Markova. Loveman was anxious to go and test his
ability for dog-driving, so I gave him charge of the team I
had procured in Penjina from Sanford, and he took his de
parture with the others.
At 1 A.M. on the morning of May 26th we were awakened
by the entrance of Loveman into our quarters on his return
from the journey with the Myan party, but he was a sorry-
looking object, and, in spite of a half-solemn, care-worn ex
pression on his countenance, we had to laugh outright. He
had on but two articles of apparel — a pair of old chassees, or
fur socks, reaching a little above his ankles, and an old kuk-
lanker turned inside out, and hanging from his shoulders in
rags, reaching almost down to his naked knees. His head
was bare, hair uncombed, and his soiled face wore a haggard,
serious expression, through which one of his usual good-na
tured smiles bubbled to the surface in response to our laugh
ter. " Well, Loveman, .so you are back ; but you look as though
you had a hard trip of it," said Macrae.

LOVEMAN'S EXPERIENCES. 493
" You ought- to have seen me yesterday on the tundra, and
you would have thought I was having a bad time. I thought
my goose was cooked, sure ; and, what scared me all the worse,
I saw two bears sitting up on snow-banks and looking at me
as though they wondered if I was good to eat or not. I
thought I was gone then, sure. I tried to make my dogs run,
but they would not do it, and then I thought I would run
and leave them behind ; but the first bear I saw didn't look
very hungry, and didn't move, so I kept still too. It wasn't
ten minutes before I saw the other one, and then I thought I
had got into a nest of them. This one was bigger than the
other, and when he saw us he sat up on his hind legs and
growled; but my dogs pulled the other way, and I was mighty
glad when he was out of sight. You ought to have seen me.
I shook all over just like a leaf, and after that I thought every
thing I saw was a bear."
" But where were the other sleds ?" I asked.
" Oh ! they had gone to the Myan. I hadn't seen them for
two days. But I forgot to tell you about it. The first day we
left I was behind the other sleds, because my dogs wouldn't
mind, and I thought they would go better behind the others.
I got along first-rate with them until we had to go through a
lot of brush for about half a mile, and then some of the dogs
kept running on one side and some on the other side of the
trees, and got all tangled up. I thought I never would get
through. By-and-by I got through, though, and there wasn't
a sled in sight ; and, what made it worse, the crust on the
snow was so hard that they didn't leave any tracks behind
them. But the tundra was all cut up with gullies, and I
couldn't see very well, so I didn't think the other sleds were
very far off. But I could not find them, and wandered about
all night. In a little while I got so mixed up that I didn't
know which way to go, the country was so alike in every di
rection." " What did you do then ?" I asked.
" Then I got hungry, and stopped to make tea, but I forgot
to carry any matches with me, so didn't have any thing to
eat but six hardtack I had put in my pocket to nibble on the
road. The other nartas had all the rest of the provisions
with them. I didn't know which way to go, so I let the dogs

494 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
go' where they pleased, and laid down to get a nap ; when I
woke up I couldn't tell whether it was day or night, it was
so light all the time. That was the time when I saw the
bears. I began to get awful hungry. I had eaten up all my
hardtack, and didn't have any thing else, so I kept the dogs
moving, hoping we would come somewhere, but we didn't,
and, what made it all the worse, I broke through the ice on a
pond and got my clothes all wet ; then I had to take them
off and put them on my sled to dry, and put on these old
things, and roll up in my blankets on the sled to keep from
freezing. You bet I was scared then. I was almost starved,
and had given up all hope of finding Markova or of ever
being found, and my dogs were used-up too. Then I got to
thinking about starving to death, and didn't like the notion.
I wished I had never heard of the Telegraph Expedition. Pret
ty soon I fell asleep, and the next thing I knew I was sur
rounded by the sleds coming from the Myan with all the
men." This is Loveman's story as he told it to us.- Without doubt
the poor boy's chances for life were very slim, and it was
merely accidental that he was ever found. He was out near
ly three days.
The other sleds on the way to the Myan did not miss
Loveman until night, and then made search for him, firing
guns, etc., but were compelled to renew their journey without
him, thinking he had returned to Markova.
On the 25th, as they were returning across the tundra, the
snow was soft and traveling difficult, and their dogs kept up
a yelping while dragging at the nartas. These yelps saved
Loveman, as they attracted the attention of his dogs, who,
upon hearing them, started off with the sled in the direction
from which the sound came.
The party with the train were much surprised at seeing a
solitary sled approaching from the distance across the tun
dra, particularly as no driver was to be seen, and when the
dogs were recognized to be Loveman's team, surprise gave
way to alarm and anxiety. The sled caught up with the
train, and, there being no movement on it, several ofthe men
rushed up, and, throwing off the deerskins, discovered Love
man, who was just awaking. It was a joyous though unex-

BREAKING UP OF THE RIVERS. 495
pected meeting for all parties, particularly so to Loveman,
who had abandoned all hope. He said he thought it was a
dream, and for some time did not dare to believe his eyes.
The knowledge that there was a good supply of provision
awaiting their arrival at Markova very much revived the
spirits ofthe Myan party, so much so that all whose term of
service expired that spring made fresh agreements to remain
another year. They now laughed over their past experiences,
and many declared that they preferred horse-flesh to poor
deer-meat. Upon the arrival of these last sleds they were
again out of supplies altogether. Mr. Frost was just on the
point of killing a dog, which he proposed to pass off upon his
men as a rabbit, if sleds should not immediately arrive with
provision. We now had in Markova tea, sugar, flour, rice, and beans
sufficient to last us until the 15th of July, by which time the
vessels would certainly be at the mouth of the river, and
bacon enough to sustain the party during the freshet, after
which deer and fish could be obtained in abundance.
Poor Robinson's remains still lay buried in the snow-drift
at Telegraph Bluff Yourt. It had been my intention to pro
cure sleds and carry them to the Gulf Station for interment,
but this I had found absolutely impossible. Now, as soon
as the freshet should subside, I proposed taking a carbass and
proceeding down the river for that purpose.
The arrival of the Ghijigha sleds inaugurated a change in
the condition of the inhabitants, and they gave themselves
up to eating and dancing. They appeared to be well sup
plied with every thing in the provision line but food for their
dogs. These poor animals were yet in a most pitiable con
dition, and many of them subsisted almost wholly upon the
carcasses of their dead companions. We found it necessary
to lock up every thing edible, not even excepting our fur
clothing, and even to bar up our " gut" windows at night, as
some ofthe creatures had learned the art of jumping through
them, and carrying off any thing they could lay hold upon.
This spring was a repetition of the last : long days, beau
tiful midnight sunsets, the arrival of water-fowl, and, finally,
the grand breaking-up of the ice on the rivers. This last
occurred several days earlier than on the previous year. Last

496 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
year the river did not open until June 6th, and on the cor
responding day this year it was sufficiently clear of ice for
our party to leave Markova with all their supplies for the
Myan Station.
We went in three carbasses by the Myan Protok, stopping
the first night at Crepast, and camping the second near the
junction of the protok with the Myan River. On the Myan
we encountered a powerful current — so strong, in fact, that
we could make no headway against it rowing, and were
obliged to put lines of seal-thong ashore and tow the boats.
This was necessarily very slow and irksome traveling, and
frequently disagreeable, as the men had to wade in the wa
ter a good portion of the way.
As we advanced up the stream we began to encounter the
habitations of many of the natives, who had preceded us for
the purpose of spearing deer. At one of these places frames
of poles extending along the bank were literally black with
drying meat, and upward of fifty deer freshly speared were
lying in the water, tied up to shore, waiting to be dressed
and cut up. The natives had already killed one hundred and
twenty at this crossing. It was a novel sight for many of
our party, and must have been a most cheering one for the
natives themselves.
In fact, every where we encountered them they were doing
nothing but eating, and, as we approached, they would joy
ously point to the stacks of deer-meat, exclaiming, " Look
there, barin, no more starving now."
At intervals all along the river we saw the white carcasses
of deer floating on the water, tied up to shore, and partially
covered with brush to protect them from the sun. In this
way they will keep many days ; but a slight taint does not
spoil them for the native taste. Several hundred of these
animals had already been killed in this locality.
The Myan here is a very winding stream, with short bends,
and the neighboring shores are cut up by innumerable pro
toks. Geese swarmed the low mud shores by thousands.
Upon our approach they rose into the air, blackening the
heavens, and causing the whole atmosphere to vibrate with
the thunderings occasioned by their flapping wings, and cre
ating a din with their startled outcries that could be heard

DEER-HUNTING ON THE MYAN. 497
for miles. Other water-fowl were also very abundant. Ev
ery few moments our attention would be attracted by the
whirring sound made by flocks of ducks of every variety
rushing by over our heads, and the trumpeting notes of swans
as they came slowly sailing in pairs down the valley.
Three or four miles below Myan Station we came upon the
temporary encampment of Illia. At that point was a large
bend, just below which we encountered a stronger current
than we had met with elsewhere during the trip. It was
with the greatest difficulty that our boats could be towed
against it, and, besides, the banks were very unfavorable for
the men to walk upon, being high, steep, and covered with
brush. The two other carbasses which preceded ours suc
ceeded without much difficulty in passing this bad place, but
when we had towed about half way up our seal-thong gave
way with the strain upon it, and, before two of us who were
riding in the boat could get in to shore again, we were swept
back to the starting-point.
Once more the line was attached, and this time we effect
ed the passage.
This incident, though trivial in itself, was the cause of our
witnessing a very pretty as well as novel sight which the
other boats missed. On the opposite shore Illia and another
native had a small brush hut, from which they kept constant
watch for the crossing of deer. Seeing our boat, Illia pad
dled across in his vetka, and joined us at a point where was
an eddy in the current, half a mile above his hut.
He informed us that he and Constantine (his companion)
had already killed upward of two hundred deer. If any of
the natives deserved success, he did, for he was the most dis
interestedly generous person I had ever had the good fortune
to meet. We talked about fifteen minutes, and then start
ed on, he paddling back across the river, but had proceeded
only a few yards, when, stopping his vetka, he motioned us to
stop also. In a moment a large buck came in sight on the
point of a bend one hundred yards distant ahead, and, after
scanning the river, immediately turned back into the woods.
IUia then hurried across, and took his station at the foot of a
steep bluff, near where the deer, in swimming, had to land, as-
for nearly three miles the bank was high and steep, and af-
Ii

498 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
forded but this one place for them to get out. We waited
some minutes, and, being able to see nothing, started on,
when Illia again motioned us to wait. The next minute,
just ahead of us, between forty and fifty fine deer gracefully
sailed out into the stream from beyond the bend, going di
rectly for Illia's vetka. It was a beautiful sight to see them
noiselessly gliding across the river in a solid phalanx, with
their wide-spread antlers swaying gently back and forth with
the motion of the waves. Nevertheless, we could not but
feel some sympathy for them. The unsuspecting creatures
gradually drew near to the cliff, beneath which we could see
Illia sitting in his vetka, as still as the rock above him, with
his long light spear resting over his shoulder, and his paddle
strongly grasped, ready to make the quick strokes that were
to bear him into the midst of the herd. In the mean time
we saw Constantine launch his vetka at the lookout, half a
mile below, and, with crouching figure, glide rapidly up the
stream, closely hugging the shore to escape detection ; but
he was too late, for now the deer were within six rods of
Illia. Suddenly all was life. His glistening paddle -blades
cast a shower of sparkling water-drops about the vetka ; it
plunged forward, and in an instant the long spear was deal
ing death-strokes with surprising rapidity in the very midst
of the bewildered herd. Before they could recover their sur
prise twenty-three of them were lanced ; the remainder scat
tered, some continuing on their course, and about a dozen
heading back across the river directly for our carbass. We
seized three of our breech-loading carbines from the boat as
quickly as possible, and jumped ashore just as the first deer
stepped on land, one hundred feet distant. I leveled my gun,
and, getting a good sight, pulled the trigger, but there was
no report, and the deer slowly trotted past me and disap
peared in the woods close by. I leveled on two others in the
same way, within very short range, but the hammer of my
gun refused to fall, having got rusted on the trip. Nor did
my companions have any better success. Three loaded rifles
were in our hands, and yet five deer passed so near to us that
they almost splashed water upon us as they waded out on
' shore. I will not attempt to convey an idea of our feelings ;
suffice it to say that, in my opinion, this was one of the occa-

TO AND FROM MYAN STATION. 499
sions on which a man is excusable if for a moment his tongue
gets the best of him.
But other deer were yet swimming toward us, and I made
desperate efforts to discharge my gun, to be prepared for
them. At last I succeeded, the ball sailing harmlessly across
the river, and then reloaded. By this time three other deer
were about reaching the shore within a stone's-throw of us,
and the three waded slowly to land, and trotted across the
beach into the woods under the very muzzles of our guns.
This was beyond endurance. Again I got the gun off when
there was nothing to shoot at, and reloaded in time to drop
the last one of a band of five that swam toward the boat.
We were all in too bad a humor to be elated by this, so small
a triumph, and, having a supply of meat in our boat sufficient
for present use, left the animal lying where it fell, for Illia to
make use of.
In addition to the twenty-three speared, three others were
caught in snares suspended over the path which led up the
steep bank. These snares were simply slip-nooses made of
seal-thong, in which the deer's antlers became entangled.
Had Constantine, Illia's companion, seen the herd in time to
help kill them, not one could have escaped. The river was
about five hundred yards wide.
While watching for deer the natives observe the greatest
quiet. They will sometimes allow days to pass without build
ing even a fire, if the wind be blowing toward the direction
from which the deer are migrating. The scent of smoke will
often turn them back, or cause them to pursue some other
route. We reached Myan Station at 10.30 P.M. of June 10th. On
the 12th, having made the necessary arrangements for rafting
poles, in company with Mr. Jared Nortcti and Ivan Ermech-
koff, a native of the Lamutka tribe, I left the station, bound
for Telegraph Bluff Yourt, on the Anadyr, to secure the re
mains of Robinson, and have them interred at the Gulf Sta
tion, on Golden Gate Bay.
Ivan, our native companion, had proved a valuable friend
during our past winter's miseries. He was one of our raft
crew the previous year.

500 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.

CHAPTER XXXIH.
Down the Myan in a Carbass. — Rain. — Hunting Eggs. — Avaram. — Provid
ing for Rafting-parties. — Ruined Watch-tower.- — Lone Mound Yourt. —
Approach to Telegraph Bluff. — Magpie. — The Remains. — Interment. —
Supplies give out. — Gull's Eggs. — Gale. — Ticklish Passage. — Camp Mac
rae. — Wanton Destruction. — Demolished Vetka. — House unroofed. — Au
dacity of a Bear. — Golden Gate Bay. — Ice. — The Wreck.- — Blue Boat. —
Our Welcome. — Launch ofthe Wade. — Renovated. — Health of Party. —
Death of Geddes. — Dixon. — The Burial. — Extracts from Robinson's Jour
nal. — Fearful Poorga. — Kelly lost. — Another Adventure. — A Night on the
Tundra. — Frozen insensible. — Party to the Rescue. — Amputation. — Rude
Implements. — Break-up of the Ice. — Damage to Wreck and Change of
Position. — Effects of extreme Cold on Metals. — Electricity in the Air. —
Auroras. — Mr. Farnam and the Commissariat. — Outdoor Exercises and
Sports. — Loading the Steamer. — First Trip up the Anadyr.- — Curiosity of
the Tchuctchus. — Huk-ho! — Reinterment of Robinson's Remains. — River
Navigation. — Celebration ofthe Fourth of July. — Macrae. — First Raft. —
Harsh Treatment. — Arrival of the Clara Bell. — Work abandoned. — Dis
appointment. — The Enterprise. — Major Wright. — Last Trip of the Wade.
— Outrageous Economy. — No Provision. — Captain Redfield. — Mason. —
Leave-taking. — Farnam's "Gash." — Farewell.- — The Graves. — Departure.
— Plover Bay. ---Old Friends. — "There she blows!" — Killing and cutting
up the Whale. — Ravenous. Natives. — Tongue and Bone. — Redfield's De
light. — Homeward bound.
Foe our boat-journey down the Anadyr we took the small
est of the three carbasses used by the party in coming from
Markova. It was an old and not very safe craft, but, for
mild river navigation, we thought would answer every pur
pose. The current being with us all the way, we could float
toward our destination night and day if the weather should
permit, and, if it should be too rough for traveling, we could
afford to lay by at' intervals. Not wishing to diminish the
supply of provision at Myan Station, we contented ourselves
with a little hard bread, tea, and sugar for the journey, think
ing we would no doubt be able to procure meat and fish at
the camps along the river.
At 11.30 A.M. on the 12th of June our boat was loosened
from shore and our journey commenced, Ivan taking the first
pull at the oars, and myself as steersman. During the whole
trip Ave alternated, each taking his turn at the oars, steering-

DOWN THE MYAN.— EGG-HUNTING. 501
paddle, and his comfort. We stopped long enough at Illia's
to get some deer-tongues and fresh and jerked meat, and then
continued on our course until 10 P.M., when we pitched our
canvas tent on the east side of the Myan, just below the
mouth of the Myan Protok.
The next day it was quite windy, but we traveled until 9
P.M., and camped upon an island in the Myan. The 14th it
rained hard all day, so we did not take our departure until
night. From that time we traveled almost incessantly, day
and night, until our arrival at the mouth of the Baillee River,
merely stopping from time to time to make search for geese
and duck eggs on some of the small islands. These we found
in the greatest abundance, but, out of several hundred, only
one was good to eat, according to our notions, though Ivan
fared sumptuously.
At the mouth of the Baillee old Avaram and several com
panions had been also securing their share of migrating deer.
He was in such good spirits that we actually succeeded in
making him laugh over the time he capsized his vetka in Vac
carana Protok, when the birds whistled.
After making arrangements with these natives to supply
the rafting parties with fresh meat as they should pass by,
we continued our course, stopping by the way to visit an
old wooden watch-tower just below the mouth of the Baillee.
At this place stood a Russian settlement a great many years
ago. A sentry was formerly kept continually posted on the
tower to watch for the approach of hostile Tchuctchus. This
structure was nothing more than a small platform, erected
on four posts about twenty-five or thirty feet above the
ground. It was evidently very old, being moss-covered and
rickety, and had such a tumble-down appearance that we did
not dare to ascend it.
Our champion Yandenkow, the Tchuctchu, had left'Oocho-
stika by the time we reached that point, so we did not see him.
At the " Lone Mound" Yourt, between Oochostika and Tchi
kiowa, a bear had taken up his abode very unceremoniously.
His bed of brush lay at the very entrance to the house, but
his lordship happened to be out when we called, and, not
having time to wait for his return, we pushed on. At length
we approached Telegraph Bluff Yourt, but not without expe-

502 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
riencing feelings of dread. The snow had by this time en
tirely melted from the tundra, and we feared lest we should
find that the remains had been molested by animals. As we
approached, the only sign of life that met our vision was a
solitary magpie perched on the ridge of the hut, keeping
lonely vigil over all that remained of our friend. The mo
ment the boat touched shore we ran eagerly up the bank to
the hut, and, greatly to our surprise as well as gratification,
found the body just as Macrae and party had left it, with the
exception that the snow shroud had vanished. The boughs
that had been planted in the snow around it had afforded
ample protection from the sun's rays. We had brought a
pick and spade with us from Myan Station, and, after digging
a grave, gave the body a temporary burial, intending to send
up and have it removed to the Gulf Station the first oppor
tunity that offered. This was on the 21st of June — just four
months after his death.
Up to this time, with the exception of two days' rain at
the commencement of our journey, we had been favored with
beautiful and generally calm weather ; slight winds had, how
ever, from time to time somewhat impeded our progress ; but
a little wind was by no means objectionable at this season
ofthe year; it served as a great protection against the clouds
of ravenous musquitoes that were now beginning to infest
every cubic inch of air within stone's throw of the earth.
Below Telegraph Bluff Yourt we had not only winds to
contend with, but the tides also much impeded our progress.
This proved somewhat annoying, as more time had been con
sumed in making the journey than we had allowed for, and
our scant supply of provisions was reduced to two days' sup
ply of tea and sugar, and a few pounds of tainted jerked meat.'
Nevertheless, we made tolerable headway until after round
ing the bend in the river near Chimcha Mountain. From this
point, it will be remembered, the river turns abruptly to the
east, and flows in that direction, for about twelve miles to
Camp Macrae. Here we were met by a furious gale of wind
sweeping up the river from tl^e sea, and raising such waves
that we did not dare for a moment to risk our dilapidated old
carbass among them. A small island near by, of not more
than a quarter of an acre in area, afforded us shelter and room

A T CAMP MA CRAE. 503
for pitching our tent. To our astonishment, the ground was
literally covered with gulls' nests. Our caps and handker
chiefs were soon filled with eggs, but these, like the goose
eggs we had found above, had just passed that point when
they are condemned as unfit for use.
Here we were detained until the next day, and, as then
there were no indications of a lull, we attempted to track
along the most protected shore. During this and the next
day we succeeded in working down to a point of land three
miles above and on the opposite bank of the river from Mac
rae's old camp. But now the most serious obstacle present
ed itself. The river at this point was upward of a mile and
a half in width, and the gale of wind, blowing against the
strong current, produced a short chopped sea, rolling up
waves of sufficient magnitude to make navigation somewhat
dangerous for a much better boat than our moss-chinked,
low-sided carbass. The night before we had consumed our
last ration of jerked meat in preparing a soup for dinner, and
no other food was to be had until we could reach the old
camp, where Macrae had been obliged to abandon the beef
and pork on his winter journey up the river.
It was out of the question to think of making a passage di
rectly across the river broadside to the waves. We could
not have proceeded one hundred yards before being swamped.
There was no other alternative but to make a straight cut
for camp, four miles distant, keeping the boat well headed to
ward the wind : this we attempted, not without great reluc
tance, but finally reached the opposite shore, perfectly wet
through with spray, and our boat half filled with water.
Upon reaching camp, our first steps were toward the hut
to procure some beef and pork to appease our appetites, which
were by this time unpleasantly sharp. A display of wanton
destruction met our gaze, much like that of the year before,
but teeth and claw marks on all sides showed that this time
other than human agency had been at work. My vetka,
which had been left here the previous fall, was clawed to
pieces, and nearly half the roof of the cabin was destroyed.
Inside, the beef and pork barrels left by Macrae had been
shattered to pieces by the bear or bears, and every ounce of
the pork had been devoured, considerably to our disappoint-

504 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
ment. Mikhael Ivanitch evidently did not relish the beef so
much, but had rolled and tumbled it into every part of the
room ; and, finally, after disposing of every thing to his taste,
was so much pleased with the " tout ensemble" that he had
made him a bed and settled down to a quiet possession of the
establishment. After his pork rations had given out he had
changed his quarters, as none of the signs appeared less than
a week old.
The next day, June 26th, the gale subsided, and we re
newed our journey along the open bay below to Cape Large,
the point of land bounding the entrance to Golden Gate Bay
on the west. Up to this time we had encountered no ice
whatever, but the entrance to this bay we found nearly
choked up with masses of it, which had been sweeping back
and forth with the tides all the spring. Through this we ef
fected a safe passage, keeping a sharp lookout as we rounded
the point for some signs of the wreck, the fate of which we
were curious to know.
At length we descried her, apparently unchanged except
in her position. She was, to all appearances, much nearer the
station than in the fall. In a few moments the station build
ing came in view, and shortly afterward we could see groups
of men gathering on the beach, apparently watching our boat,
as if uncertain what to make of it. Now they rush for the
blue boat, which they launch, and in a few nioments we are
welcomed back to the station by a crew of as healthy, hardy,
and happy-looking individuals as I have ever seen. They
were in the best of spirits, from Mr. J. H. Robinson, the offi
cer in charge, down, having only an hour before launched
the steamer Wade, which they had thoroughly repaired, fresh
ly painted, and in many respects greatly improved upon her
former condition. Under the able direction of Mr. Forbes,
the engineer, her boiler and steam-pipes had been covered
with old rope and canvas to keep the heat in them, and her
engines overhauled and painted. Several changes had also
been made in the construction of her deck-house with regard
to draught for the furnace, and comfort for the officers and
men attached to her.
Both the land party and the crew of the wrecked barque
were in the best of health and spirits ; but, as I approached

ROBINSON'S REPORT. 505
the station, my eyes met an object which proclaimed too
truly that they had not altogether been exempted from sor
row and misfortune during the past winter. A low mound,
with a neat head -board and appropriate inscription, an
nounced the last resting-place of one of their party — Charles
E. Geddes, carpenter of the barque Golden Gate, who died
April 28th, at 5 A.M., after a long and protracted illness, of
remittent fever, complicated with acute rheumatism.
Mr. Robinson, in his report of the winter's proceedings,
states that " every effort that could be made to save his life
was made by Mr. Dixon, who was up night and day with him
from the time he took seriously ill until his death. His body
was buried April 30th, at 10.30 A.M., under the supervision
of Captain Harding, with every respect that could be shown
to the memory ofthe deceased." The Episcopal service was
read over the grave by Captain Harding in the presence of
the members of the party, who attended in full uniform.
With this exception the health of the party had been very
good, though some of them suffered very much from frost
bites. Mr. Kelly, one ofthe wrecked passengers of the Gate,
was particularly unfortunate.
The following extracts from Mr. Robinson's report and
journal briefly sum up the'experiences ofthe party and the
most interesting features ofthe winter since Mr. Macrae's de
parture from the station on the 18th of February:
The evening after Lieutenant Macrae's departure a heavy
storm sprang up from the southeast, which kept on increas
ing until the morning ofthe 21st, when the wind suddenly
changed to northwest, and blew the most fearful gale we
have experienced during the winter. The snow drifted so
thickly that we were unable to go a hundred yards from the
house without being lost. M. J. Kelly, Colonel Wicker's
clerk, was lost during the morning in attempting to go a dis
tance of about one hundred yards from the station. Imme
diately after he was discovered to be missing guns were fired
to attract his attention, and several of the' party started in
pursuit, but failed to find him, as they dared not go out of
sight of the house. Mr. Kelly, by accident, found his way
back, after being out about half an hour, so badly chilled
through that he was unable to leave his bed for several days.
Several other members ofthe party were lost during the day,

506 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
but found their way back to the station without suffering to
any great extent.
During this, time Mr. Robinson told me that they found it
necessary to stretch a rope from the station building to the
sailors' house, a distance of fifty yards, that the men in the
latter might not lose their way while going to their meals.
March 31st. — Weather clear and very cold; the ther
mometer at 6 A.M. —50° Fahrenheit. Last evening Mr.
Kelly asked permission to leave camp for two or three hours,
stating that he was going out for a walk. I retired at the
usual hour, supposing he had returned, as the men did not re
port him absent. At 7.30 this A.M. we were aU startled by
a report that Mr. Kelly was out on the ice so benumbed that
he could not walk. Several of the men were immediately
sent in pursuit, and at 8 A.M. returned with him frozen stiff,
and life almost extinct — his senses and speech were gone.
After rubbing the frost out of him, which took half an hour,
consciousness returned, so that he was able to utter a few in
distinct sounds. By noon he had so far recovered that he
was able to eat a little light food. He and Mr. Young, one
of the sailors, visited a Tchuctchu encampment about three
miles from the station late last evening, and, in attempting
to return after dark, lost their way, and wandered about over
the tundra and ice all night, not knowing where they were.
At daybreak they saw the ship, and found they were eight
miles southeast ofthe station. Mr. Young succeeded in reach
ing camp in a half-frozen condition, but Mr. Kelly's strength
failing him when within a mile ofthe station, he sat down to
rest, where he remained unconscious until picked up by the
party in pursuit.
On the 17th of April Mr. Dixon amputated the fore and
middle fingers of his right hand, they being so badly frozen
that all Mr. Dixon's efforts to save them proved fruitless.
Mr. Dixon deserves great credit for the able manner in which
he performed the amputations, having nothing to perform
the operation with but the most rude implements. These
consisted of a handsaw and jackknife to do the cutting with,
and a pair of old rusty tweezers to pick up the arteries. The
operation was performed in two hours' time, the patient be
ing under the influence of chloroform. Mr. Kelly is now rap
idly recovering.
On the 23d of June the ice in Golden Gate Bay and Wade
River broke up without any noise whatever, and on the 27th
the bay was clear. About half of the ice that went out

ELECTRICAL PHENOMENA. 507
on the ebb came back with the flood tide. This I think was
caused by a heavy easterly gale that blew from the 23d to
the 26th, and the small quantity of snow that fell during the
winter being insufficient to create a current on Wade River
strong enough to counteract the flood tide. The Tchuctchus
informed me that the ice generally ran out on the flood as
well as the ebb tide.
On the 24th of June the wreck was driven to within two
miles of the station by the pressure of the ice, which left her
grounded in four feet of water at low tide, and nine feet at
high tide. She was harshly treated by the spring ice', hav
ing portions of her port bow and starboard side carried away.
Speaking of the effects of extreme cold upon metals, Mr.
Robinson says :
My observation of the contraction of wire during the
coldest weather we had (—65° Fahrenheit) convinces me
that it will require three hundred and sixty pounds of wire
to the mile* to stand this severe climate. From observa
tions taken at the temperatures of —62°, —64°, and —65°
Fahrenheit, I found the contraction to be three inches to two
hundred and ten feet, or six feet three inches to the mile.
From some very imperfect observations made during the
winter with common wrought iron, I am led to believe that
the large quantity of electricity in the air during the winter
months pervades iron to such an extent as to prevent it from
becoming brittle, as is usually the case in cold climates. How
ever, if this be true, it will not prevent the contraction of the
wire, but will make it less liable to break when.it tightens up
in winter.
The amount of electricity in the air, even during the sum
mer months, is surprising. Mr. Robinson, at the time of my
arrival, had constructed about three miles of telegraph line,
and had put up an instrument and battery in the station.
There was no time scarcely when we could not dispatch
messages over this length of line without the aid of the bat
tery, though the natural current of electricity was hardly
strong enough at all times to operate reliably.
During the past winter many auroras had been seen both
here and at Anadyrsk, but none of surpassing beauty, al-
* Ordinary No. 9 telegraph wire weighs three hundred and twenty-three
pounds to the mile.

508 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
though they were almost a nightly occurrence. They were,
however, of short duration, rarely lasting more than half an
hour. Strange as the fact may seem, I did not witness one
of these phenomena during my first winter's journeyings in
the vicinity of the Okhotsk Sea, though Messrs. Kennan and
Dodd, while on the Anadyr, were treated to several most
gorgeous displays.
Thanks to Mr. Farnam's able management ofthe provision
department, the stores at the station had held out finely, and
there was yet a very good supply on hand — enough, at least,
to last until the arrival of the expected vessel, though the
variety was much reduced.
At the approach of warm weather the deer-meat remain
ing on hand became unfit for use, but, by the industry of the
men, the table was very well supplied with geese, and ducks,
and fine trout taken from the tundra lakes.
All during the winter, whenever the weather permitted,
the men had devoted much time to hunting and fishing, but
generally with poor success. They, however, persevered in
their efforts, more for exercise than any thing else, and fre
quently resorted to the smooth ice on Wade River to play
base ball, run foot-races, and engage in other games for the
same purpose. These sports they sometimes indulged in at
a temperature as low as —52° Fahrenheit. This abundant
out-of-door exercise was the undoubted cause of the remark
ably good health of the party.
Mr. Jared Norton and myself reached the station on the
26th of June, after fourteen days' sailing. The 27th was de
voted to loading the steamer with coal to be deposited at
Oochostika. Her small capacity would not allow her to
carry much load in addition to the fuel necessary for a trip
up the Anadyr and back, and by making deposits of fuel at
this point from which to replenish her supply, this difficulty
would be obviated. The same day a neat coffin was made
to receive the remains of Robinson, and on the 28th we start
ed for our first voyage up the Anadyr with steam.
The Wade worked much better than during the previous
fall, and we encountered no difficulty whatever until we ap
proached the mouth of the Anadyr, seven or eight miles be
low Camp Macrae. Here we found the water very shoal (as, ,

STEAMING ON THE ANADYR.

509

in fact, it is all through the inner bay we had just crossed),
and the channel was very intricate, so much so that we
grounded a number of times, though the draught of the
Wade was only two' and a half feet. We anchored a num
ber of buoys at this place, but the strong current ofthe river
immediately swept them beneath the surface.
Above Camp Macrae we had much less difficulty, the chan
nel being deep and wide, though we grounded a number of
times, as was naturally to be expected, until we had become
familiar with all the shoals. After three days' running
against the current, stopping once for a few hours to read
just some of the machinery which was a little at fault, we
reached Oochostika and landed the coal, together with some
supplies for the rafting party.

OOCHOSTIKA.

This was the first time since the creation that these tun
dra banks had ever responded in echoes to the shrill scream
ing of a steam-whistle, and it was not surprising that the
geese and ducks, startled by the strange sound, arose from
' their quiet lakes and sailed rapidly far away across the tun-

510 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES,
dra, or that foxes and the polar hare sprang from their places
of concealment and scampered off to other shelter. Even
the wild reindeer that dotted the distant hills threw up their
heads in astonishment, and then fled in dismay, when, for a
second time, the valve was opened, and the escaping steam
trumpeted forth the approach of the vanguard of civilization.
But their alarm was premature. A few weeks afterward that
portion of the world had reassumed its original state of quie
tude, undisturbed except by the old and familiar screams of
water-fowl, together with the barking of foxes, baying of
wolves, and such other sounds as had been allotted to it from
the time of the commencement by the great Creator. The
little Wade was the first steam craft that ever plowed these
waters, and will probably be the last. Centuries may roll
by, and the present age be swallowed up in the dim past be
fore she has a successor ; or it may be — unless, by some great
terrestrial convulsion, or by a long, slow process of nature,
this soil and climate become better fitted for the abode of
civilization — that the next shrill trump which shall resound
over these desolate wastes will be that which shall startle
both the living and the dead of all climes and ages.
The curiosity manifested by our Tchuctchu friend Yanden
kow and his companions upon our approach was very amus
ing. As the steamer came plowing up the river, they gath
ered on the bank, and stood in perfect amazement watching
the large red wheel revolving* in the sunlight at the stern,
and dashing back the white foam. They were perfectly
dumbfounded. With mouths and eyes stretched to the ut
most, they watched her every movement ; and when, at length,
she gracefully swept in to shore, the one prolonged exclama
tion "Huk — ho!" rolled from every mouth. She was most
carefully scrutinized from stem to stern, and, upon landing,
the whole party rushed aboard to try and discover the great
power that produced such wonderful results. The furnace
was peered into, the engines felt of, and even the windlass
twisted about. Not being able yet to discover the cause,
the whole band squeezed themselves down into the coal-hole
to try and solve the mystery. It was impossible to explain
it to them with our limited knowledge of Tchuctchu, and,
even had we been familiar with their language, I doubt

FOURTH OF JULY AT OOCHOSTIKA. 511
whether they could have been made to understand. We in
vited them to tie their boats alongside and take a short ride
down the river with us, which pleased them very much ; but,
upon leaving the craft, they were more perplexed than ever.
The return trip to the station was made in two days.
At Telegraph Bluff Yourt Robinson's remains were taken
aboard, and afterward buried at the station by the side of
Geddes, a neat head-board, with appropriate inscription, be
ing erected to designate the spot.
The Wade made two other trips as far as Oochostika, car
rying wire, brackets, and insulators. When the Fourth of
July rolled around we celebrated it after the manner in which
all Americans usually observe that greatest day in our na
tion's history. A national salute was fired from one of the
ship's 12-pounders, that had been brought ashore for the pur
pose, and the station buildings and steamer were decked out
in our country's and Company's flags and signals, presenting
a very gay and holiday appearance. Mr. Farnam's fore
thought had also held in reserve several of the dainties with
which we had been furnished before leaving Plover Bay, and
at the dinner-table our tin plates were burdened with a fare
that would have done justice to many another country and
climate. On the third trip of the steamer, just below Camp Macrae,
we met Macrae and party with the first raft. They left Myan
Station on the 26th of June with two rafts of one thousand
poles each, but the water had fallen so much on the Myan
that the rafts were too deep to float. They then left one of
them behind, and divided the other into two smaller ones,
which they brought down to deep water. After this, Mr.
Macrae sent back a party under Mr. Mason to float down the
other. The first raft had been divided up and the poles land
ed at different points along the river convenient for winter
distribution with dogs.
Their supplies by this time were nearly exhausted, so they
continued on to the station to await the arrival of the vessel.
These poor fellows had received very harsh treatment from
musquitoes and " moskes." Some of their faces were so badly
swollen that they were barely recognizable.,
When we rounded Cape Large on our return trip and came

512 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
in sight of the station, we were much gratified at seeing a
barque lying at anchor in the mouth of Wade River; but, as
we came in full view, our delight was changed to disappoint
ment. She flew the Company's colors; but one glance pro
claimed all — our great undertaking had collapsed ! Her cop
per sheathing was distinctly visible far above the water-line,
showing the absence of cargo, nor had any thing been landed,
as the beach was perfectly clear. Our surmise proved cor
rect. The Atlantic Cable was a success, thereby obviating
the necessity for telegraphic communication with the Old
World via Behring's Strait. With this great rival in the
field, nothing was to be gained by a completion of the work.
This announcement, instead of causing that joy one would
expect from a band of men who had been exiled from the
world and civilization for one and two years, and who had
been undergoing privations and sufferings in a cause which
affected them so indirectly, was received without a word Of
approbation. The pecuniary compensation derived from it
could not be the cause of their disappointment, for, without
exception; they all received outrageously small amounts for
their services under the circumstances. No ; the truth is, the
enterprise was looked upon as a great national undertaking,
and one that would do credit to any nation. To construct a
telegraph line for upward of seven thousand miles through a
wild and hitherto unexplored territory, among savage tribes,
and that, too, for the greater portion of the way through an
arctic region, where the severest cold had to be endured, to
gether with innumerable other privations, was an enterprise
which we all felt a pride in being enlisted in ; and now that
the walls were scaled — the greater part of the suffering gone
through with, and the heaviest obstacles overcome — to see
our pet project abandoned just as we were emerging upon a
comparatively smooth and easy path, was by no means grat
ifying. The barque anchored at the station was the Clara Bell,
with Major Wright, the adjutant of the expedition, on board.
Our instructions were to get every thing aboard as soon as
possible to proceed to Plover Bay, the general rendezvous.
Mr. Mason and party were yet on the Myan, where also much
of the baggage of the men, with various other articles, had

TELEGRAPH ENTERPRISE ABANDONED. 513
been left. To secure these, at 4 A.M. the next morning the
Wade left the station for her last trip on the Anadyr, under
the command of Mr. Frost, with instructions to proceed, if
possible, to Myan Station, and to hasten the passage, as the
Bell had to visit the American coast to gather together the
parties yet remaining there.
After the intention to abandon the work was announced,
the Company had sent an agent to San Francisco to settle up
its affairs. Economy is very essential for the prosperity either
of an individual or corporation, but when it is 'carried so far
as to send an empty ship two or three thousand miles to
relieve parties destitute of supplies, and to bring those par
ties back to civilization without carrying provisions to sus
tain them, it becomes outrageous. The dispatches sent via
St. Petersburg during the winter, announcing the critical con
dition of our party owing to the wreck of the Gate, and urg
ing the necessity of speedy relief in the spring, had been re
ceived, so that the authorities at home could not plead igno
rance. Yet when I applied for provisions to sustain my par
ty — our own supplies being about exhausted — I was told
there were none to spare.
Fortunately, since the opening of the river, the men had
caught a number of salmon, and, to provide against a possi
ble emergency, had salted down three barrels full. Upon
these, with quarter rations of bread and a very' small quan
tity of other food, we managed to eke out an existence until
after our arrival at Plover Bay, when Major Wright had to
make a voyage in search of whalers to try and either beg or
buy enough food to prevent the parties from starvation.
Thanks to the noble generosity of Captain Redfield, of the
Manuella, and several other whalers, he secured a sufficient
quantity of provisions to place the parties beyond want.
The Wade returned to the station on the 25th. She had
ascended the Myan as far as Vaccarana, above which point
the water became too shoal in places for her to advance far
ther. At this point they met Mason and party with another
raft and, taking them aboard, immediately turned back, find
ing it necessary to abandon the articles left at Myan Station.
These I afterward intrusted to the care of Ivan Ermechkoff
(the native who had accompanied Mr. Norton and myself on
Kk

514 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
our carbass journey down the river), to be delivered up if
called for by any of the Company from Ghijigha, and if not
called for to be applied to his own uses.
During the absence of the Wade every thing about the
station was transferred to the Bell, including spars, rigging,
anchors, chains, etc., that had been saved from the wreck,
and, upon her return, the loading-up was completed. When
every thing was put aboard, the men nailed a painted board
over the entrance ofthe station, giving its name, date of erec
tion, and date of abandonment. Our " Jack-tar" neighbors,
not to be outdone, soon had a similar board erected over their
quarters, announcing that theirs was " The House that Jack
built," with a sketch of its history.
To be impartial, and to give an idea ofthe object for which
each building was erected to any straggler who might event-.
ually find his way to this brink of the world, some wag in
the party soon had a sign raised on a pole above the store
house, bearing the words
FARNAM'S GASH.
TO LET.
After this three lusty cheers were given for the old spot,
to which the men had become attached in spite of its dreary
location, and we left the point for the last time. Before step
ping into the boat, however, we gave one farewell glance to
see that nothing was being left behind — but, alas ! some
thing was left behind. There, upon the bleak point, side by
side, were two low mounds, with their white head-boards
glistening in the warm sunlight. Beneath these lay poor
Robinson and Geddes, who had joined our party full of bright
hopes and anticipations for the future. Little did they dream
that their future was so near at hand, and that their eyes
would close for the last time upon this drear, dismal waste.
But what care they now? Their white grave-stones may
glisten in the cold, frigid rays ofthe winter's aurora, or glow
and sparkle in the bright effulgence ofthe midnight sun ; the
fierce, howling poorga may rush madly by, tearing up the
frozen snow and dashing it against their low graves, or the
mild summer breezes creep gently over the tundra, to bathe
them in the fraarrance of wild flowers.

PLOVER BAY.-OLD FRIENDS. 515
Fierce wolves shall dash over the spot in pursuit of their
prey; the wild reindeer shall come to crop frozen lichens
from their tombs ; the partridge to build her nest between
them ; and the startled hare shall take shelter behind them ;
but nothing can disturb the departed in this their long, last
sleep. The steamer towed the barque out of Golden Gate Bay,
and then the order was reversed, the steamer being taken in
tow. She was afterward taken to pieces at Plover Bay, and
the hulk given to the natives at that place.
We had a very pleasant trip, owing to the obliging nature
and genial company of Captain John Norton, who command
ed the Bell. No pains were spared either by him or his offi
cers to make our voyage comfortable.
At Plover Bay vfe found Captain Libby and party < from
Port Clarence ; and afterward Captains Ennis, Ketchum, and
ft dozen other old friends, who had been leading a life much
like our own for the past two years in Russian America,
joined us with their parties.
These gentlemen all had their exploits, adventures, and ex
periences to relate, and had by no means been idle. Among
them was Mr. Whymper, who, it will be remembered, com
prised one of the party that visited us at Camp Macrae from
the steamer Wright, after our first winter's sojourn in the
country. Mr. Whymper had devoted the past winter to
traveling and sketching in Russian America.*
During our stay in Plover Bay, for shelter we erected large
tents from the sails ofthe Golden Gate, which afforded ample
accommodation for the party. Had it not been for the scar
city of supplies, our month and a half's sojourn would have
been very pleasant ; but still we experienced much pleasure
in meeting old friends, and mutually recounting our experi
ences. While here we made frequent visits to the vessel of Cap
tain Redfield, which lay at the lower end of the bay. The
captain, in all our visits, sustained his generous and hospita
ble reputation ; and we were always welcomed aboard with
* A volume of Mr. Whymper's travels was issued by Harper & Brothers,
New York, in the year 1869. It is entitled "Travels in Alaska and on the
Yukon. "

516 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
a cheerful salutation, and such friendly grasps ofthe hand as
one is reluctant to loosen his hold of.
On one of these visits a long-desired wish was gratified —
that of witnessing the capture of a whale, and seeing it dis
posed of after the usual method of whalers. " There she
blows !" came from the look-out in the " crow's nest," and
the next moment we saw a puff of vapor and water arise from
the bay, just inside ofthe sand-spit.
Three boats were soon lowered, and rapidly rowed to the
spot. It was a long time before the harpoon was fastened
into the creature ; but perseverance triumphed at length,
when the huge beast reared almost entirely out ofthe water,
and, with frantic strokes of his powerful tail, lashed the sea
into a perfect foam.
Finally an opportunity presented itself, when the fatal bolt
was hurled from the bomb-gun, and exploded inside of the
animal. Immediately after this death ensued. The boat's
flags were planted in the carcass, and the long, tedious job
of towing it to the ship's side followed. In the mean while
the ship's carpenter was busily at work sharpening long-han
dled blubber spades, while some of the other hands were rig
ging purchases. After the carcass was brought alongside,
and hooked into to prevent its sinking, the huge lower jaw
was first detached by means of spades and axes, and hoisted
on deck by purchases rigged overhead. The men at the
windlass accompanied their heaving with songs the mean
while. The moment the jaw struck the deck, three or four men
commenced at it with spades, cutting it up into blocks of fat
which they call "horse pieces." These are afterward chop
ped into " mince-meat" before being " tried out" in the huge
caldrons on deck. The rest of the whale is then stripped of
its thick blubber coating by hooking into a strip of fat at the
throat and heaving at the windlass, in the mean while cutting
a deep gash spirally around the carcass.
By this means the carcass rolls over slowly in the water,
and the long fat strip becomes unwound, as it were, from the
body. When the commencement of the blubber strip reach
es the purchases above, a fresh hold is taken lower down with
another hook, and the upper portion, being severed from the

CAPTURE OF A WHALE. 517
remainder, is lowered to deck, chopped into " horse pieces,"
and thrown into the " blubber-room" below deck until the
time of" trying out" commences. One ofthe most interest
ing portions ofthe process was hoisting aboard the tongue —
a huge mass of quivering fat, large enough to fill up an or
dinarily-sized bedroom, and so heavy that it made the brig
careen, and the mainmast bend with the weight. But the
huge upper jaw, with seventeen hundred pounds of black
whalebone clinging to it and hanging in heavy slabs from
the gums, was the crowning scene in interest. This jaw, with
the whalebone attached, when suspended to the rigging, more
resembled a large black tent than any thing else, capable of
inclosing twelve or fifteen men.
" There, gentlemen," said the captain, " look at that. Did
you ever see any thing on shore as handsome as that ? And
there's something," said he, pointing to a vast accumulation
of blubber heaped upon the greasy deck, " there's something
that may look very dirty and worthless to you landsmen,
but it is gold to us. There lies the sole inducement for us
whalers to abandon all the comforts and pleasures of home,
and spend our lives cruising about these out-of-the-way seas,
pinched up in. little six-by-ten cabins, and undergoing some
times no trifling hardships, to say nothing of the constant
risk of life. But I tell you, gentlemen, when we catch fel
lows like this, that will make one hundred and twenty, one
hundred and fifty, and sometimes two hundred barrels of oil
all in one lump, I tell you it pays us for all our trouble. You
people on shore can have all your theatres, and balls, and
things of that kind, but we don't want any thing, better than
this." This was a rich harvest for the natives on the spit, and
they availed themselves of it. A dozen baideras assembled
around the carcass, each crowded with men, women, and chil
dren, all armed with knives, ready for the onslaught. As fast
as the fat was stripped off they attacked the exposed lean
meat, cutting out large chunks, and casting theni into their
boats for future use.
I think I never before saw such a ravenous set of creat
ures ; the same number of famished dogs could not have
been more so. Each creature, before commencing to work,

518 REINDEER, DOGS, AND SNOW-SHOES.
supplied himself or herself with a long strip of the raw meat,
reeking in fresh, warm blood, and, putting one end in his
mouth, commenced the work of mastication, at the same time
cutting and tearing from the carcass as much as he could
seize hold of for loading his boat. In a few minutes they
were all dripping with blood from head to foot.
All this time we had been waiting for the arrival of Colo
nel Bulkley with the Nightingale, he having gone from San
Francisco by the way of Japan. The long and unexpected
delay occasioned some anxiety for him and his vessel, but on
the 6th of September we were relieved by his arrival. This
was the signal for us to get ready for the homeward voyage,
and ere long we were gliding under full canvas through the
waters of Behring Sea, bound once more for the world and
civilization. These we again reached after a short, joyous,
and prosperous voyage of twenty-two days.

METEOROLOGICAL TABLES
FOE THE MONTHS OF
OKTOBER, NOVEMBER, DECEMBER, JANUARY, FEBRUARY,
MARCH, APRIL, MAY, AND JUNE,
1866 and 1867;
TAKEN AT
BUSH'S STATION, GOLDEN GATE BAY, NEAR THE MOUTH
OF THE ANADYR RIVER, NORTHEASTERN SIBERIA,
Latitude 64° 55' N., Longitude 177° 19' E.,

W. D. DIXON,
hosfital steward of the station.

Meteorological Table for the Month of October, 1866, Bush's Station, Anadyr River, N. E. Siberia.
Maximum Temperature, +34°. Minimum Temperature, —10°. Mean Temperature for October, +13°.88.

Date.

Thermometer.

Barometer.

Weather.

Wind.

Oct., 1866.

Direction.

Force.

6 A.M.

M.

8 p.m.

6 A.M.

M.

8 P.M.

A.M.

P.M.

A.M.

P.M.

A.M.

P.M.

1234

- 9
-IT
-15
-
5
-12
-19
-14
6
-13
-19
-18
29.80
29.86
29.92
7
|-16
-22
-14
29.92
30.10
30.08
8
- 5
-14
-10
29.98
30.05
30.01
9
- 9
-17
-10
30.00
30.01
29.98
10
-18
-24
-22
29.95
29.91
29.90
11
-24
^30
-23
29.84
29.83
29.86
12
-25
l
-21
-16
29.89
29.96
30.02
13
-15
¦-IS
-20
30.06
30.08
30.06
14
-19
-26
-26
29.90
29.82
29.74
15
-20
-26
-2T
29.60
29.56
29.49
16
-31
-34
L28
29.48
29.62
29.59
17
-10
-22
-15
29.59
29.62
29.68
18
-18
>-23
-25
29.71
29.68
29.59
a
19
-
h9
-14
- 5
29.49
29.55
29.64
20
- 2
- 9
-12
29.80
29.89
29.90
21
+30+12 0
-32
-34
29.56
29.54
29.49
S.E.
S.E.
Gale.
Gale.
22
23
-11- 2
- T
- 4
29.6229.T4
29.7929.79
29.7629.87
Snowy.
Snowy.
W.W.
W.W.
Strong breeze.
Gale.
Strong breeze.
Gale.
24
— 4
- 2
29.91
30.02
30.04
Clear.
Clear.
W.
W.
Strong breeze.
25
— 4
— 2
— 3
30.04
30.12
30.14
Clear.
Clear.
Calm.
Calm.
26
— 6
0
—11
30.13
30.14
30.10
Clear.
Clear.
Calm.
Calm.
2T
—10
+ 4
+ 4
30.00
29.98
29.96
Clear.
Clear,
E.
E.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
2829
-au
+30
+32
29.75
29.60
29.55
Cloudy.
Cloudy.
S.E.
S.E.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
- 3
— 2
0
29.82
29.98
29.96
Clear.
Clear.
W.
W.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
30
-32
+34
+32
29.40
29.05
29.09
Cloudj'.
Cloudy.
S.E.
S.E.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
31
-12
H
-as
-
-IS
29.21
29.15
29.13
Cloudy.
Snowy.
W. i
W.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Meteorological Table for the Month of November, 1866.
Maximum Temperature, +2S°. Minimum Temperature, —30°.

's Station, Anadyr River, N. E. Siberia.
Mean Temperature for November, —7°. 64.

Date.

Thermometer.

Barometer.

Weather.

Wind.

Direction.

Force.

Nov., 1866.

6 A.M.

M.

8 P.M.

6 A.M.

M.

8 P.M.

A.M.

P.M.

A.M.

P.M.

A.M.

P.M.

1

+10

+10

+ 8

29.28

29.4T

29.60

Snow.

Clear.

w.

W.

Strong breeze.
Light oreeze.

Strong breeze.
Light breeze.

2

—14

—11

—15

29.70

29.85

29.97

Clear.

Clear.

w.

W.

3

—24

—20

—12

30.07

30.08

30.02

Clear.

Snow.

N.

N.

Light breeze.

Light breeze.

4

Xi

+14

+10

29.77

29.92

29.98

Snow.

Snow.

S.E.

N.W.

Strong breeze.
Light oreeze.

Light breeze.
Strong breeze.

5

+ 4

0

29.95

29.87

29.84

Snow.

Snow.

N.W.

W.

6

— 4

— 8

-—16

29.80

29.82

29.86

Clear.

Clear.

W.

N.W.

Strong breeze.

Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.

7

—18

—16

—20

29.78

29.88

29.92

Clear.

Clear. «

N.W.

N.W.

Strong breeze.

8

—27

—26

—30

29.94

30.00

30.06

Clear.

Clear.

N.W.

N.W.

Strong breeze.
Light oreeze.

9

—14

—17

—16

29.93

30.00

29.95

Clear.

Clear.

N.W.

N.W.

10

0

+ 6

+ 4

29.85

29.84

29.83

Cloudy.

Cloudy.

E.

E.

Strong breeze.

Strong breeze.
Light oreeze.

11

0

0

— 6

29.87

30.04

30.04

Clear.

Clear.

E.

W.

^Strong breeze.
Light oreeze.

12

—14

— 6

— 6

29.90

29.99

29.92

Clear.

Clear.

W.

W.

Light breeze.

13

—12

— 9

—12

29.84

29.89

29.94

Clear.

Clear.

W.

W.

Light breeze.

Light breeze.
Strong breeze.

14

—18

—20

—26

29.80

29.86

29.80

Clear.

Clear.

W.

W.

Strong breeze.

15

—30

—24

—20

29.58

29.64

29.62

Clear.

Clear.

W.

W.

Strong breeze.

Strong breeze.

16

—22

—22

—26

29.56

29.61

29.64

Clear.

Clear.

W.

W.

Strong breeze.

Strong breeze.
Light oreeze.
Light breeze.
Gale.

17

—26

—16

—22

29.50

29.61

29.62

Cloudy.

Clear.

W.

W.

Strong breeze.
Light Dreeze.

18

—28

—28

—29

29.68

29.68

29.68

Clear.

Clear.

N.W.

N.W.

19

- 2

- 8

+ 8

29.37

29.27

29.20

Cloudy.

Cloudy.

N.E.

N.E.

Gale.

2021

-28-26

-28^26
+28+10
29.3629.47
29.4629.73
29.4929.90
Clear.Cloudy.
Clear.Snow.
E. E.
E.E.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Light oreeze.
22
- 6
- 6
— 4
30.20
30.12
30.20
Cloudy.
Cloudy.
E.
E.
Strong breeze.
23
— 2
— 4
— 6
30.11
30.29
30.30
Cloudy.
Cloudy.
E.
E.
Strong breeze.
24
— 8
— 8
—12
30.30
30.30
30.28
Clear.
Clear.
N.
N.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Li^ht breeze.
25
—18
—11
0
30.11
30.10
29.82
Clear.
Clear.
N.W.
N.
Light breeze.
26
— 2
—12
—12
29.71
29.84
29.90
Clear.
Clear.
N.
N.
Light breeze.
27
— 4
— 6
— 6
29.92
30.04
30.06
Cloudy.
Cloudy.
N.W.
N.W.
Light breeze.
28
— 2
+.?
— 4
29.98
30.04
30.04
Cloudy.
Cloudy.
E.
E.
Strong breeze.
29
—14
—14
—14
30.00
30.10
30.14
Clear.
Clear.
N.
N.
Light oreeze.
Light breeze.
30
-12
-11
—22
30.00
30.04
29.9S
Cloudy.
Clear.
N.W.
N.W.
Light breeze.
METEOROLOGICAL TABLES.

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METEOROLOGICAL TABLES.

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THWCO^WWt-COO)OrHCSlCO^I10eDt—t)OO.OT-lCSlCO^iOtCi»»-0 HHiHi-lrHHi-iHHi-iC'IWlStNlSWOlOlC
Meteorological Table for the Month of March, 1867, Bush's Station, Anadyr River, N. E. Siberia.
Maximum Temperature, +33°. Minimum Temperature, -50°. Mean Temperature for March, -1°.70.

Thermometer-

March, 1867.

456
189
10
11 1213
1415
16 IT
IS192021

2425

27

3031

-17-26
--11 — 2
+ 8
+14+16+19+10— 2
—14
tl—14

-30
—33-42
—22—36 —36 —34-46 —50

+ 4
--32

+20--21

1
+10--30

--20— 2
+ 6
+14
+23 0
—18— 4
—12
—21 —23—14 —26
—23 —24
—23 —34

+26 16

8
--20 -10
+20

t

+ 8
—14 —28
-20—26 —32—34—26—32 —34—38-41 -46

6 A.J

29.6030.1229.8129.76
30.0529.5029.7329.4829.4429.9829.7829.3429.80
30.1030.1230.1930.0829.90 29.86
30.00 30.36 30.40
30.2830.15 30.0129.5629.5229.5529.3529.3529.64

29.6230.30 29.73
29.8629.9229.8029.6829.3229.7929.9029.4229.4929.94
30.17 30.18
30.28 30. OS
29.9229.9030.1430.3030.4030.3430.1830.0029.6229.64 29.6529.44
29.5829.82

29.84
30.2229.51
30.11 29.8029.84
29.6329.2430.0029.7429.4329.4029.8830.1530.2430.2130.0029.9029.9430.2630.5030.40 30.3230.12
29.8329.58 29.6129.6029.45
29.57 29.76

Snow.Clear.Drifting snow.
Clear.
Drifting snow.
Clear.
Overcast. Snow.
Snow.Overcast.Drifting snow.
Overcast. Clear.
Overcast. Overcast.Clear.
Foggy.Overcast,Overcast. Clear.
Foggy. Overcast. Overcast.
Clear.Clear. Clear.Clear.
Drifting snow.
Clear. Clear.Clear.

Clear.
Overcast.Drifting snow.
Clear.
Overcast.Overcast.Overcast.Snow. Clear.
Drifting 6now.
Drifting snow.
Snow.Clear.
Overcast. Clear.
Clear.Clear.Overcast.
Overcast.Clear.Overcast.Clear.Clear.Clear.Clear.Clear.
Drifting snow.
Clear.Clear.Clear.Clear.

W.
S.E.S.E.S.S.E.S.
E.S.E.N.W.N.W. E.
E.S.E.E. E.
N.W.N.W. S.E.
S.E.N.W.N.W.
N.W. N.W. W.
N.W. W.W.
W.W.W.
N.W.

S.W.S.E.S.E.
N.W. s:e.S.E.
S.E.S.E.
N.W.
N.W. E.S.E.S.E.S.E.
E.N.W.S.E. S.E.
N.N.W. W.
N.W.N.W.N.W. S. w.
w.
N.E.N.E.
W.N.

Light breeze.
Very l'ht breeze.
Gale.Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Very Pht breeze.
Strong breeze.
Whole gale.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Light ore eze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Lightbreeze.Light breeze.

Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Gale.Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Very Pht breeze.
Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Lightbreeze.Gale.Whole gale.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Lightbreeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Light oreeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.

Meteorological Table for the Month of April, 1867, Bush's Station, Anadyr River, N. E. Siberia.
Maximum Temperature, +54°. Minimum Temperature, —40°. Mean Temperature for April, +5°.24

Date.

Thermometer.

Barometer.

Weather.

Wind.

April, 1867.

Direction.

Force.

6 A.M.

M.

8 P.M.

6 a.m.

M.

8 P.M.

A.M.

P.M.

A.M.

P.M.

A.M.

P.M.

1

—40

—20

—24

29. 5S

29.52

29.52

Overcast.

Overcast.

N.E.

N.W.

Strong breeze.

Strong breeze.

2

—24

—10

—12

29.52

29.62

29.70

Overcast.

Overcast.

N.W.

N.W.

Strong breeze.

Very Fht breeze.

3

—24

— 6

— 6

29.80

29.92

29.93

Clear.

Clear.

N.W.

N.W.

Strong breeze.
Very Pht breeze.

Very l'ht breeze.

4

—14

+ 2

— 8

29.92

29.98

29.98

Clear.

Clear.

N.W.

N.

Very l'ht breeze.

5

—26

—12

—18

29.90

29.94

29.82

Clear.

Clear.

N.W.

N.W.

Strong breeze.

Strong breeze.
Light Dreeze.

6

—30

—14

—26

29.78

29.84

29.84

Clear.

Clear.

N.W.

N.W.

Strong breeze.
Lightbreeze.

7

—34

—20

—28

29.76

29.33

29.73

Clear.

Clear.

N.W.

N.W.

Light breeze.

8

—34

—12

—28

29.69

29.76

29.78

Clear.

Clear.

N.W.

N.W.

Light breeze.

Light breeze.

9

—36

—18

—24

29.S0

29.90

29.90

Clear.

Clear.

N.W.

N.W.

Strong breeze.

Light breeze.

10

—34

—14

—IS

29.84

29.92

29.88

Clear.

Clear.

N.W.

N.W.

Strong breeze.

Strong breeze.

11

—18

—10

—18

29.70

29.79

29.78

Drifting snow.

Drifting snow.

W.

W.

Gale.

Gale.

12

—20

—10

—18

29.72

29.86

29.84

Clear.

Clear.

N.W.

W.

Strong breeze.

Strong breeze.

13

—28

— 3

—16

29.76

29.86

29.76

Clear.

Clear.

W.
Calm.
'Strong breeze.
Light oreeze.
14
—22
— 2
—12
29.90
30.04
29.96
Clear.
Clear.
S.E.
S.E.
Light breeze.
15
+ 6
1
h 6
— 5
29.62
29.82
29.98
Snow.
Clear.
N.W.
N.W.
Strong breeze.
Lightbreeze.
Strong breeze.
Light Dreeze.
16
—10
- 3
— 1
30.16
30.35
30.42
Clear.
Clear.
N.W.
N.E.
17
- 8
-19
-12
30.32
30.28
30.12
Overcast.
Drifting snow.
E.
E.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Light Dreeze.
Gale.
18
-14
-
-29
-15
30.05
30.18
30.22
Overcast,
Overcast.
W.
W.
19
-18
-31
-22
30.18
30.15
30.19
Drifting snow.
Drifting snow.
E.
E.
20
-24
-35
-20
30.24
30.32
30.38
Overcast
Overcast.
E.
S.
Strong breeze.
Very l'ht breeze.
21
L23
-32
L94
30.26
30.30
30.22
Overcast.
Overcast.
E.
E.
Strong breeze.
Light bree*ze.
Light breeze.
Calm.
22
L29
-48
-28
30.10
30.10
30.13
Overcast.
Overcast.
S.E.
23
L31
-38
-24
29.98
29.96
29.90
Cloudy.
Clear.
S.E.
E.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Light oreeze.
24
-20
-37
-33
30.05
30.05
30.04
Clear.
Clear.
E.
E.
Strong breeze.
Light oreeze.
25
-21
-49
-26
29.98
29.96
29.90
Overcast.
Overcast.
S.E.
S.E.
Strong breeze.
Light Dreeze.
26
-30
L44
-32
29. SO
29.77
29.S2
Overcast.
Overcast.
S.E.
S.E.
Light breeze.
27
-35
L46
-31
29.82
29.93
30.00
Overcast.
Snow.
S.E.
S.E.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
28
-29
-54
-32
30.11
30.15
30.16
Overcast.
Overcast.
N.
S.
Very l'ht breeze.
Very l'ht breeze.
29
-34
-52
-27
30.22
30.20
30.10
Overcast.
Overcast.
S.
S.E.
yery l'ht breeze.
Very l'ht breeze.
30
-
-22
-37
-30
29.96
29.94
29.92
Overcast.
Clear.
S.
E.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
• Meteorological Table for the Month of May, 1867, Bush's Station, Anadyr River, N. E. Siberia.
Maximum Temperature, +59°. Minimum Temperature, +11°. Mean Temperature for May, +33°.75.

6 A.fi

8 P.M.

6 A.M.

1011 12
13 14 15
1617 1819

2526272829 3031

+14--30 --24
--33--34--33--38 --38
--28--27--30--22--24 --11
--11--11 --15--30
--33 --33
--35 --33--33
--32 -31
--30--34--29 --28--29--35

--36 --55
--42 --3S
--59--48 --36--41--36
--30--29 --24
--31--33--31--47
--34--48--47 --43
--46--37--41--43 --45--39--40
--48 --49

31
-27
+30 •33
+34 •31
--34
--3S --31--29 ¦28 2027 24
¦28¦30 3333 343537
39 38
3940 3335
¦37-31
-38
+37

29.8829.92
30.07 30.0529.8929.8229.5129.3529.8729.8229.76 29.67
29.8530.0130.03 30.12
29.8729.8329.7529.5229.9730.1030.1530.0730.07 30.0529.82
30.03 29.9329.84 29.76

30.0230.1230.0629.9029.77

29.83 29.8729.79
29.7429.9430.04 30.10
30.11 29.8929.8929.67
29.6330.09 30.16
30.12 30.1230.12
30.06 29.S3
30.0829.96 29.8029.79

29.8630.05
30.10 30.0029.8929.6829.3729.6029.8329.8329.72 29.78
30.0030.0330.12 30.01
29.8829.842II.5S 29.75
30.11 30.17
30.1230.1030.1029.9429.9230.00 29.87
29.75 29.78

Clear.
Clear. Clear.
Overcast. Rain.
Snow.Snow.Overcast.Overcast.Snow.
Snow. Clear.
OvercastClear.Clear. Clear.Clear.
Overcast.Snow.Snow.Clear.OvercastOvercast.OvercastClear.Clear. .
Rain. Clear.OvercastOvercast. Cloudy.

Overcast

S.

S.E.

Clear.

S.

S.E.

Overcast

S.

S.

Overcast

S.E.

E.

Overcast.

S.E.

S.E.

Snow.

S.E.

S.E.

Snow.

N.

Overcast

S.

E.

Overcast.

N.

W.

Overcast.

W.

s.

Overcast.

W.

N.

Overcast.

N.

N.W.

Clear.

N.W.

N.W.

Clear.

N.W.

W.

Clear.

N.W.

N.W.

Clear.

N.W.

N.W.

Overcast

N.W.

N.W.

Cloudy.

N.E.

Rain.

N.W.

N.W.

Rain.

S.

Clear.

W.

S.

Overcast.

S.E.

S.W.

Overcast.

N.W.

N.W.

Clear.

N.N.W.

W.N.W

Clear.

N.W.

N.W.

Overcast.

S.E.

S.S.E.

Rain.

N.W.

E.

Clear.

N.W.

N.W.

Overcast

S.E.

S.

Overcast.

S.

S.

Cloudy.

W.

w.

Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Very l'ht breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Lightbreeze.
Lightbreeze.Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Calm.Strong breeze.
Calm.Very l'ht breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Very l'ht breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Very l'ht breeze.
Light breeze.

Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Very l'ht breeze.
Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Strong breeze.
Calm.
Strong breeze.
Lightbreeze.Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Light Dreeze,
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Lightbreeze.Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Very l'ht breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Light breeze.
Strong breeze.
Very l'ht breeze.
Strong breeze.
Very l'ht breeze.
Very l'ht breeze.
Very l'ht breeze.

METEOROLOGICAL TABLES.

529

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