YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Gift of PROFESSOR EDWARD E. SALISBURY THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. VOLUME I. THE MIDDLE KINGDOM; A SURVEY OF THE GEOGRAPHY, GOVERNMENT, EDUCATION, SOCIAL LIFE, ARTS, RELIGION, &c, THE CHINESE EMPIRE AND ITS INHABITANTS. WITH A NEW MAP OF THE EMPIRE, AND ILLUSTRATIONS, PRINCIPALLY ENGRAVED BY J. W. ORR. BY S. WELLS WILLIAMS, I > ' „ . AUTHOR OF "EASY LESSONS IN CHINESE," "ENGLISH AND CHINESE VOCABULARY, &C. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. NEW YORK & LONDON: WILEY AND PUTNAM. 1848. Eeb Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1847, by S. WELLS WILLIAMS, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New York. R. CRAIGHEAD, PRINTER, 112 FULTON STREET. T. B. SMITH, STEREOTYPKR, 216 WILLIAM STREET. GIDEON NYE, JR., OF CANTON, CHINA: A TESTIMONIAL OF THE RESPECT AND FEIENDSHIP OF THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS OF VOL. I. CHAPTER I. GENERAL. DIVISIONS AND FEATURES OF THE EMPIRE. PAGE Names given to China — Area, divisions, and boundaries — Mountain ranges around and in the Empire — Desert of Gobi — Yellow river, Yangtsz' kiang, and other rivers — Lakes and islands — Coast line — Great Wall and Canal — Five races within the Empire 1 CHAPTER II. GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE EASTERN PROVINCES. Climate of the provinces — Table of their divisions — Chihli ; the city of Peking, its divisions and municipality — Gardens near it — Tien tsin — Shantung ; its coast and capital — Shansi ; Honan ; its capital — Kiangsu ; its cities Nanking, Suchau, Shanghai, &c. — Nganhwui ; — Kiangsi ; its rivers and towns — Chehkiang ; its cities Hangchau, Ningpo, &c. ; the Chusan islands — Fuhkien ; its capital Fuhchau, Amoy, Changchau, &c. ; Formosa. ... .43 CHAPTER III. GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE WESTERN PROVINCES. Hupeh ; its capital Wuchang — Hunan ; — Shens! — Kansuh — Sz'- chuen — Kwangtung ; its capital Canton, Macao, Hongkong — Hainan I. — Kwangsi— Yunnan. . . 120 CHAPTER IV. GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF COLONIES. Their subdivisions — Manchuria ; its climate, area, provinces, and productions — Moukden — River Sagalien — Island of Tarakai — Inner Mongolia — Outer Mongolia ; its khanates ; Kiakhta and Kurun — Cobdo — Koko-nor — Ili ; its two Circuits — Tarbagatai and Kur-Kara usu — The capital Kuldsha — Eight Mohammedan cities — History of Hi and Khoten — Tibet ; its divisions, chief towns, inhabitants, and history — Ladak ; its capital Leh. . . 151 VIII CONTENTS. PAGE CHAPTER V. POPULATION AND STATISTICS. Comparison of censuses — Reasons for admitting and doubting them — Revenue and disbursements — Salaries. ... 206 CHAPTER VI. NATURAL HISTORY OF CHINA. Minerals, gems, and metals — Zoology; wild animals — Domesticated animals, birds, water-fowl, and birds reared for show — Reptiles — Fishes — Insects — Botany, trees, flowers, bamboo, &c. — Researches of the Chinese in Natural History. ... . . .... 240 CHAPTER VII. LAWS OF CHINA AND PLAN OF GOVERNMENT. Theory of the Chinese polity, its features of responsibility and espionage — Code of laws — Emperor of China, his power, charac ter, name, &c. — Orders of nobility and classes of society — Branches of central government — Cabinet and General council ; six Boards — Colonial Office ; Censorate — Judiciary, and Imperial Academy — Minor bureaus— Provincial governments. .... . 296 CHAPTER VIII. ADMINISTRATION OF THE LAWS. Character and position of the high officers in the government, Chang- ling, Ho, Sung, Lin, Kiying, &c. — Emperor's responsibility — Edicts of officers — Their agents and modes of extortion — Village elder ship—Evils of clans — Popular manifestoes — Prevalence of banditti — Judicial proceedings — Punishments and tortures — Style of officers. 353 CHAPTER IX. EDUCATION AND LTTERARY EXAMINATIONS. Nature of Chinese education — Schools and schoolbooks — Primary books — Deficiencies and results of education — Examinations for literary degrees— Mode of conducting them— Effects and objects of this competition — Influence of the Chinese literary gentry Extent and objects of female education 421 CONTENTS. IX PAGE CHAPTER X. STRUCTURE OF THE CHINESE LANGUAGE. Origin of this language — Six classes of characters — Modes of arrang ing them — The two hundred and fourteen radicals — Six styles of writing — Mode of printing — Metallic types — Sounds of the Chinese language — Three dialects and their peculiarities — Grammar of the • Chinese — Mode of studying the language 458 CHAPTER XI. CLASSICAL LITERATURE OF THE CHINESE. Catalogue of the imperial library — Five Classics ; their names and character — Filial duty, and examples of it — Four Books ; their authors and character — Notice of Mencius— Confucius, his life and writings ; interview with a boy — Dictionaries of the language. . . 502 CHAPTER XII. POLITE LITERATURE OF THE CHINESE. Historical works — Sz'ma Kwang, a historian — History of the Three States — Philosophical writings — Chu Hi and his disquisitions — Sacred Commands of Kanghi ; and versification of it — Stories of the Rationalists — Novels — Story of Li Taipeh — Poetry of the Chinese — Ballads, pasquinades, and dramas — Proverbs 542 ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOL. I. Portrait of Kiying. ....... Title Page — representing an honorary portal. The two characters, Shing chi, upon the top, show that it is erected by imperial command. The four characters underneath in the panel, Chung Kwoh Tsung- lun, are the name of the work in Chinese, " A General Account of the Middle Kingdom." The inscription on the right is Gin chi ngaijin yu tsin kih so, i. e. He who is benevolent loves those near, and then those who are remote. That on the left is an expression attributed to Confu cius ; Si fang chi jin yu shing ch£ yt, i. e. The people of the west have sages. Plan of Peking, ...... 57 View of a street in Canton, . . ... 135 Yak or Grunting Ox, ..... 192 The Chinese Hog, ...... 254 Mode of carrying Pigs, .... 255 Different styles of Official Caps, . . . 323 Mode of carrying high officers in Sedans, . . 404 Prisoner suffering torture, . 405 Mode of exposure in the Cangue, . 411 Publicly whipping a Thief through the streets, 413 Different forms of Chinese characters, . . iW PREFACE. On my return to the United States from China, I found an unex pected degree of interest in the community regarding the pros pects in that empire for the extension of traffic and intercourse ; and in many circles, a still greater desire to know how far the recent changes and openings were likely to advance the intro duction and diffusion of Christianity among its inhabitants. A residence at Canton and Macao of twelve years in daily and fa miliar contact with the people, speaking their language and study ing their books, it was supposed might enable me to explain parts of their polity and character not commonly understood here, and give such views of their condition as would illustrate their social state, and encourage to greater efforts in evangelizing them. To reply to these, and other inquiries respecting their geography, population, arts, customs, and science of the Chinese, I delivered a series of lectures in Utica, Cleveland, Buffalo, New York, and other cities, the proceeds of which were devoted to the manufac ture of a fount of Chinese type then making for the missions. Having gone to China under the patronage of the American Board of Foreign Missions as a printer, this object in lecturing was in keeping both with my station in the mission, and the gene ral subjects of the lectures, in which I endeavored to take a sur vey of the empire and its inhabitants. The inquiries made by intelligent persons guided me in the topics chosen for lecturing. The sequel need hardly be told, nor are the lectures here referred to as an apology for these volumes. Others, far better able to XIV PREFACE. judge of the necessity and usefulness of such a work than I am, strongly recommended their publication ; and one pastor said that if I would write them out he would get his church to publish them. Two objects have been kept in view while preparing them. One has been to embody all the topics treated of in the lectures, amplifying and illustrating some of them more than was expedi ent or useful in a discourse ; so that those who heard the lectures will find the same subjects referred to here. In arranging them, the same order has been preserved ; and in discussing them, care has been taken to select whatever information was most authentic, important, and recent ; trying to reach that difficult medium be tween an essay on each head, which would tire the general reader, and could be found elsewhere by all who wished to investigate it, and an 'unsatisfactory abridgment, too meagre to gratify rational inquiry, and too short even to induce further research ; but whe ther I have attained this chung yung, as the Chinese call it, I am not a judge. If on the one hand the volumes seem too bulky for a general inquirer to undertake to peruse, as containing more upon such a subject than he cares about reading, let him remem ber the vastness of the Chinese Empire, much larger than his own Republic in its widest bounds, and whose races number nearly as many scores, as his own country has units, of millions, and he will not, perhaps, deem them too large for the subject. On the other hand, those who feel greater interest in the character, his tory, and institutions of the Sons of Han, will pursue their in vestigations in the works of the French missionaries and savants, and those few English writers who have entered into this branch of knowledge. Another object aimed at, has been to divest the Chinese people and civilization of that peculiar and almost undefinable impres sion of ridicule which is so generally given them ; as if they were the apes of Europeans, and their social state, arts, and government, the burlesques of the same things in Christendom. It may be excusable for the Chinese to have erroneous and con- PREFACE. XV temptuous notions concerning lands and people of whom they have had little desire and less opportunity to learn what they really are ; but such ideas entertained concerning them by those who have made greater attainments in morality, arts, and learn ing, greatly enfeebles the desire, and tends to excuse the duty, to impart these blessings to them. The names she has given her towns, the physiognomy God has marked upon the features of her people, the dress and fashions those people have chosen to adopt, their mechanical utensils, their religious festivals, their social usages ; in short, almost every lineament of China and her in habitants, has been the object of a laugh or the subject of a pun. Travellers who visit them are expected to give an account of " Mandarins with yellow buttons, handing you conserves of snails ; Smart young men about Canton in nankeen tights and peacocks' tails. With many rare and dreadful dainties, kitten cutlets, puppy pies ; Birdsnest soup which (so convenient !) every bush around supplies." Manners and customs, such as met the eye, and attracted atten tion by their newness and oddity, first found a place in their jour nals, and combined to continue the impression generally enter tained, that the Chinese were on the whole an uninteresting, grotesque, arid uncivilized " pig-eyed" people, whom one run no risk in laughing at ; an " umbrella race," " long-tailed celestials," at once conceited, ignorant, and almost unimprovable. If this attempt, therefore, to set them in a fair position by a plain account of their government and its principles of action, a synopsis of their literature and literary examinations, and a de tail of their social, industrial, and religious state, just as other nations are described, tend to correct or enlarge the views of any, it will not have failed of its object. I have called it the Middle Kingdom, chiefly from that being the meaning of the most common name for the country among the people themselves ; and also, from the Chinese holding a middle place between civili zation and barbarism, — China being the most civilized pagan nation in her institutions and literature now existing. Besides these objects, I wish also to increase the interest felt in XVI PREFACE. the Christian community for the spread of the Gospel among the Chinese by showing how well they are likely to reward mission ary labors, when once they have taken root among them. In order to this I have gone somewhat fully into the nature of the government and its principles of conservatism and disorganiza tion ; and the religious opinions of the people. The geography of the whole empire has been carefully examined, and the grounds for believing that the largest estimated population is both probable and possible, and its proofs the most credible of any, investigated. The sources of almost every part of the work are personal ob servation and study of native authorities, and the successive volumes of the Chinese Repository published at Canton, and edit ed by Dr. Bridgman. Some may think it unnecessary to issue another general account of China so soon after the methodical and able digest of Sir John Davis ; and I have thought I could not pay his work a higher compliment than to refrain from quot ing it frequently, or even going into many details upon points fully illustrated in it. Ten years have elapsed since " The Chinese" was published, however, and the public in this country will, even if they have read it, take a deeper interest in that people, now that they are more accessible than when that was written, and be glad to learn the causes and results of that remarkable contest which compelled them to open their long closed gates. Other works consulted are usually quoted in their place, but the Re pository is often the source of many statements not distinctly marked. The illustrations have been selected with reference to their accuracy, from various sources, chiefly from La Chine Ouverte, a French work of considerable research and vivacity. In concluding this prefatory note respecting the origin, plan, and design of the present work, I may be allowed to express the humble hope that it will aid a little in advancing the cause of Christian civilization among the Chinese, and do its part in dif fusing a juster knowledge of their state and nation in this country. If that knowledge shall further tend to induce in any one the desire to diffuse among them an acquaintance with the chief PREFACE. XVII source of our own civil and religious liberties, and encourage those now engaged to greater efforts, then will the pains taken in its preparation be increasingly rewarded. To the many kind friends in this country who have looked upon the attempt with favor, and especially those who have aided me in carrying it through the press, I can only return that acknowledgment which they so well deserve, but which 1 have not their permission more explicitly to give. S. W. W. New York, Dec. 1st, 1847. NOTE RESPECTING THE MAP, AND THE SYSTEM OF PRONUNCIATION ADOPTED IN THIS WORK. The Map of the Empire has been drawn from the best authorities accessible. The coast is delineated from the recent surveys of the English naval officers, and the provinces from the old surveys of the Jesuits, corrected in their divisions from a large map of the empire published by the Chinese government, which measures nearly ninety square feet, and has been referred to in making the boundaries and divisions of Mongolia, Manchuria, and lli. The towns and principalities in Japan are placed according to Siebold's recent map ; those of Annam according to Bp. Taberd's large map ; while Moorcroft has been consulted for the divisions of Ladak, Klaproth for those in Tibet, and the maps of the Useful Knowledge Society for Russia, Songaria, Turkestan, &c. In writing the towns and rivers in the Eighteen Provinces, great care has been taken to compare every name with the Chinese map, so that no mistake should be made in confounding words nearly alike, and it is believed that few errors will be found in this part of it. No pains have been spared to make it as accu rate as the extent of our topographical information concerning the vast regions it embraces enables it to be drawn, though much of our present delineation of those parts lying north of the Great Wall rests upon doubtful authority. The system of pronunciation adopted in the map and book is nearly the same as that followed in the works published by the American mission in China. The powers of the letters are as follows : 1. a as in father, far ; never like a in hat ; e. g. chang, hang, to be sounded almost as if written cJiahng, hahng, not flat, like the English words sang, lang, fyc. XX SYSTEM. OF PRONUNCIATION. 2. a as in .American, bwt, slimmer, mother ; e. g. pan, tang, to be pronounced as pun, tongue. 3. e as in men, dead, said ; as leh, shen, yen. 4. 6 as in they, neigh, pray ; as cM, y€, pronounced chay, yay. 5. i as in pin, finish ; as sing, Un, Chihli. 6. i as in machine, believe, feel, me ; as li, Kishen, Kanghi. 7. o as in long, laivn ; never like no, croze ; as to, soh, po. 8. u as in rale, too, fool ; as Turk, Belur, ku, sung ; pro nounced Toork, Beloor, koo, soong. This sound is heard less full iafuh, tsun, and a few other words. 9. u nearly as in l'wie (French), or wnion, rheum ; as te, tsu. 10. ai as in aisle, high, or longer than i in pine ; as Shanghai, Hainan. The combination ei is more slender than ai, though the difference is slight ; e. g. Kwei-chau. 11. aw as in round, our, how ; as Fuhchau, Shauchau, Taukwang. 12. (u as in the colloquial phrase say 'em ; e. g. ch&ung. This diphthong is heard in the Canton dialect. 13. ia as in yard ; e. g. hia, kiang ; not to be sounded as if writ ten high-a, kigh-ang, but like hed, kedng. 14. iau is made by joining Nos. 5 and 11 ; hiau, Liaulung. 15. ie as in sierra (Spanish), Rienzi ; e. g. Men, kien. 16. ii* as in pew, pure, lengthened to a diphthong; kiu, siun. 17. hie is made by adding a short e to the preceding ; kiuen, hiuen. 18. ui as in Louisiana, suicide ; e. g. sui, chui. The consonants are sounded generally as they are in the Eng lish alphabet. Ch as in church ; hw as in when ; j is soft, as s in pleasure ; kw as in awtoard ; ng, as an initial, as in singing, leaving off the first two letters ; sz' and tsz' are to be sounded full with one breathing, but none of the English vowels are heard in it ; the sound stops at the z ; Dr. Morrison wrote these sounds tsze and sze. Urh or VA, as in purr, omitting the p. All these, except No. 12, are heard in the court dialect, ac cording as that is sounded by the French missionaries, by Morri son, Medhurst, Goncalves, and many others, and which has thereby become the most common mode of writing the names of places and persons in China. Though these authors have em ployed different letters, they have all intended to write the same SYSTEM OF PRONUNCIATION. XXI sound ; thus chan, shan, and xan, are only different ways of writing ji|j ; and isse, tsze, tsz', and tzu, of "^. Such is not the case, however, with such names as Macao, Hongkong, Amoy, Whamp'oa, and others along the coast, which are sounded accord ing to the local patois, and not the court pronunciation, Ma-ngau, Hiangkiang, Hiamun, Hwangpu, &c. Many of the discrepancies seen in the works of travellers and writers are owing to some fol lowing the former, and some the latter. It would be desirable to follow the latter in all cases, and not call places, or people, in foreign books by their local pronunciation ; but uniformity is almost unattainable in this matter. Even, too, in what is called the Court dialect, there is a great diversity among educated Chi nese, owing to the traditional way all learn the sounds of the characters. In this work, and on the map, the sounds are writ ten uniformly according to the pronunciation given in Morrison's Dictionary, but not according to his orthography. Almost every writer upon the Chinese language seems disposed to propose a new system, and the result is a great confusion in writing the same name ; for instance, eull, olr, ul, ulh, Ih, urh, 'rh, i, e, lur, nge, ngi, je, ji, are different ways of writing the sounds given to a single character. Amid these discrepancies, both among the Chinese themselves, and those who endeavor to catch their pro nunciation, it is almost impossible to settle upon one mode of writing the names of places. That which offers the easiest pro nunciation, and has become the best known, has been adopted in this work. It may, perhaps, be regarded as an unimportant mat ter, so long as the place is known, but to one living abroad, and unacquainted with the language, the discrepancy is a source of great confusion. He is unable to decide, for instance, whether Tung-ngan, Tungon hien, Tang-oune, and Tungao, refer to the same place or not. In writing Chinese proper names, authors differ greatly as to the style of placing them ; thus, Fuhchaufu, Fuh-chau-fu, Fuh Chau Fu, Fuh-Chau fu, &c, are all seen. Analogy affords little guide here, for New York, Philadelphia, and Camlivridge, are severally unlike in the principle of writing them : the first being really formed of an adjective and a noun, yet not in this case united to the latter, as it is in Newport, Newtown, &c. ; the second is like the generality of Chinese towns, and while it is now written as one word, it would be written as two if the name XXII THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. were translated, Brotherly Love ; the third Cambridge is never written Cam Bridge, and many of the Chinese names are like it in their origin. The same rules apply in writing Chinese names as in English, and in this work, the proper names of places have been written as one word, Suchau, Peking, Hongkong, with a hyphen inserted in some cases to avoid mispronunciation, as Hiau-i, Chau-ngan, &c. It is not supposed that the system of writing them here adopted will alter such names as are commonly written otherwise, but the principle on which they are constructed will be shown. The additions, fu, chau, ting, and Men, being classifying terms, should form a separate word, and not be incor porated into the name, as Ningpqfu. It has not been possible to reduce the names of towns in other parts of the Empire, and in Japan, to the same system of pronunciation, though they have been written as nearly like it as they could be. THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. CHAPTER I. General Divisions and Features of the Empire. The possessions of the ruling dynasty of China, — that portion of the Asiatic continent which is usually called by geographers the Chinese Empire, — form one of the most extensive dominions ever swayed by a single power in any age, or any part of the world. Comprising within its limits every variety of soil and climate ; watered by large rivers, which serve not only to irri gate and drain it, but, by means of their size and the course of their tributaries, also afford unusual facilities for intercom munication, it produces within its own borders everything necessary for the comfort, support, and delight of its inhabitants ; who have depended very slightly upon the assistance of other climes and nations for satisfying their own wants. Its civiliza tion has been developed under its own institutions ; its government has been modelled without knowledge or reference to that of any other kingdom ; its literature has borrowed nothing from the genius or research of the scholars of other lands ; its language is unique in its symbols, its structure, and its antiquity ; and its people are remarkable for their industry, peacefulness, numbers, and peculiar habits. The examination of such a people, and so extensive a country, can hardly fail of being both instructive and entertaining ; and if rightly pursued, lead to a stronger conviction of the need of the precepts and sanctions of the Bible to the highest development of mankind, in their personal, social, and political relations in this world, as well as to their individual happiness in another. It is to be hoped, too, that at this day in THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. the world's history, there are many more than formerly, who desire to learn the condition and wants of others, not entirely for their own amusement and congratulation at their superior knowledge and advantages, but also to do their fellow-men good, and impart to them liberally of the gifts they themselves enjoy. Those who desire to do this, will find that few families of man kind are more worthy of their greatest efforts than those comprised within the limits of the Chinese Empire ; while none stand in more need of the purifying, ennobling, and invigorating principles of our holy religion to develope and enforce their own theories of social improvement. The origin of the name China, by which the most ancient and important part of the present empire is known abroad, has given rise to some discussion. The people themselves have now no such name for their country, nor is there much evidence that they ever did apply the term to the whole land. The most probable account ascribes its origin to the family of Tsin, whose chief first obtained complete sway, about b. c. 250, over all the other feudal principalities in the land, and whose exploits ren dered him famous in India, Persia, and other Asiatic states. This family had, however, long been famous in Chinese history, and previous to this subjugation, had made itself widely known, not only in China, but in other countries. Its territories lay in the north-western parts of the empire, and according to Visdelou, who has carefully examined the subject, the family was illus trious by its nobility and power. " Its founder was Taye, son of the emperor Chuen Hu. It existed in great splendor more than a thousand years ago, and was only inferior to the royal dignity. Feitsz', a prince of this family, had the superintendence of the stud of the emperor Hiau-wang, and as a mark of favor his majesty conferred on him the sovereignty of the city of Tsinchau in mesne tenure, with the title of sub-tributary king. One hundred and twenty-two years afterwards (about B. c. 770), Siangkwan, petit roi of Tsinchau (having by his bravery revenged the insults offered to the emperor Ping by the Tartars, who slew his father Yu), was created king in full tenure, and without limitation or exception. The same monarch, abandoning Si-ngan fu, the capital of his empire, to transport his seat to Lohyang (now called Honan fu), rendered him master of the large province of Shensi, which had composed the proper kingdom of the emperor. He thus became very powerful, but though his for- NAMES FOR CHINA. 3 tune changed, he did not change his title, retaining always that of the city of Tsinchau, which had been the foundation of his elevation. The kingdom of Tsin soon became celebrated, and being the place of the first arrival of the people from the western countries, it seems probable that those who saw no more of China than the realm of Tsin, extended this name to all the rest ; and called the whole empire Tsin or Chin."* This extract refers to periods long before the dethronement of the family of Chau by princes of Tsin ; and it is plain, that the position of this principality, contiguous to the desert, and holding the passes leading from the valley of the Yarkand across the desert eastward to China, renders the supposition of the learned Jesuit highly probable. The possession of the old imperial capi tal would strengthen this idea in the minds of the traders resort ing to China from the west ; and when the same family did ob tain paramount sway over the whole empire, and its head render himself so celebrated wherever the country was known by his conquests over Tungking, Annam, and the neighboring countries, by his cruelty over the literati, and by building the Great Wall, the name Tsin was still more widely diffused, and regarded as the name of the country. The Malays, Hindus', Persians, Arabians, and other nations of Asia, have known the country or its people by no other terms than Jin, Chin, Sin, Since, Tzinista, or others similar. These investigations derive additional importance from the light they throw upon the prophecy in Isaiah xlix., 12, and the aid they give in determining what country is intended by the " land of Sinim," and what people are there specifically pointed out, as finally to be brought into the pale of the church.f The Chinese have many names to designate themselves and the land they inhabit. One of the most ancient is Tien Hia, meaning Beneath the Sky, and denoting the World ; another, almost as ancient, is Sz' Hai, i. e. [all within] the Four Seas ; a third, now more common than either, is Chung Kwoh, or Middle Kingdom, given to it from an idea that it is situated in the centre of the earth ; Chung Kwoh jin, or men of the Middle Kingdom, denotes the Chinese. All these names indicate the vanity and the ignorance of the people respecting their geographical posi tion and their rank among the nations, but they have not been alone in this foible ; the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans, all had * D'Herbelot, Bibliotheque Orient , tome IV., p. 8. + Chinese Repository, Vol. XIII., page 113, passim. 4 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. terms for their possessions which intimated their own ideas of their superiority ; while, too, the area of none of those monarch ies, in their widest extent, greatly exceeded that of China Proper. The family of Tsin also established the custom, since continued, of calling the country by the name of the dynasty then reigning ; but, while the brief duration of that house of only forty-four years was not long enough to give it much currency or favor among the people, succeeding dynasties, by their talents and prowess, imparted their own as permanent appellations to the people and country. The terms Han-fin and Han-tsz' (i. e. men of Han or sons of Han) are now in common use by the people to denote themselves ; the last also means a " brave man." Tang-jin, or Men of Tang, is quite as frequently heard among the natives ; and the phrase Tang Shan, or Hills of Tang, de notes the whole country. The Han dynasty sat upon the throne from b. c. 202 to a. d. 220 ; and the Tang from a. d. 620 to 907 ; their sway is regarded by the Chinese as the most glorious pe riods of their national history. The present dynasty Tsing calls the empire Ta Tsing Kwoh, or Great Pure Kingdom ; but the people themselves have refused the corresponding term of Tsing-jin, or Men of Tsing. Klaproth must therefore have been misinformed when he says the Chinese call themselves Tsing-jin ; it is not unlikely, however, that the Manchus and Mongols so designate themselves, and he perhaps inferred from this that the Chinese do so too. The empire is also sometimes Tsing Chau, i. e. [land of the] Pure Dynasty, by metonymy for the family which rules it. The term so fre quently heard in western countries for China, — the Celestial Empire, — is derived from Tien Chau, i. e. Heavenly Dynasty ; meaning the kingdom which the dynasty appointed by heaven rules over ; but the term Celestials, for the people of that king dom, is entirely of foreign manufacture, and their language could with difficulty be made to express such a patronymic. Besides the common terms Han-jin and Tang-jin to denote the people, they have some others of a descriptive nature. The phrase Li Min, or Black-haired Race, is a common appellation ; the ex pressions Hwa Yen, the Flowery Language, and Chung Hwa Kwoh, the Middle Flowery Kingdom, are also frequently used for the written language and the country ; because the Chinese consider themselves to be among the most polished and civilized of all nations, — which is the sense of hwa in these phrases. The LIMITS OF THE COUNTRY. 5 phrase JSui Ti, or Inner Land, is often employed to distinguish it from countries beyond their borders, which constitute the deso late and barbarous regions of the earth. Hwa Hia (the Glorious Hia) is another ancient term for China, the Hia dynasty being the first which sat on the throne ; but these, and a few others like them, are not in "common use among the people. The present ruling dynasty has extended the limits of the empire far beyond what they were under former princes, and its dimensions and limits are given by McCulloch from careful examinations of many maps. The peninsula of Luichau, in the province of Kwangtung, the most southerly portion of its conti nental dominions, is in lat. 20° N. ; but if the island of Hainan be included, the most southern point will be the bay of Yulin, in lat. 18° 10' N. The most northerly portion is the north-eastern part of Manchuria, lying on the Russian frontier, in lat. 56° 10' N., along the range of the Outer Hing-an or Yablonoi mountains. This boundary is nearly as far north as the utmost north-eastern corner above the mouth of the Amour river, in lat. 56° 30' N., and long. 143° 30' E. The island of Sagalien or Tarakai is included among the possessions of the present dynasty on the largest maps of the empire, but it is very doubtful whether the Chinese have any officers there, or exercise the least sway over the inhabitants. If it be included, Cape Patience, in lat. 48° 10' N., and long. 144° 50' E., will be the most eastern point of the empire. The western frontier is not well defined, but Cashgar is the largest town of importance on that side ; it lies in the province of 111, in long. 73° 55' E. ; but the western bend of the Belur tag, in long. 70° E., is usually regarded as the frontier between China and the states of Kokand and the Kirghis stepp. The longest line which can be drawn in it from the south-western part of lli bordering on Kokand north-easterly to the sea of Okhotsk, is 3350 miles ; its greatest breadth is 2100 miles from the Outer Hing-an south-westerly to the peninsula of Luichau. The length is about seventy-seven degrees of longitude, and the breadth about forty of latitude. The area of this vast region is estimated by McCulloch, after the most careful examination, at 5,300,000 sq. m., and this is evidently much nearer the truth than the usual sum of 3,010,400 sq. m. The form of the empire approaches a rectangle. It is bounded on the east and south-east by various arms and portions of the Pacific ocean, called on European maps sea of Okhotsk, gulf 6 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. of Tartary, sea of Japan, gulfs of Liautung and Pechele, Yel low sea, channel of Formosa, China sea, and gulf of Tonquiu. The peninsula of Corea lies south of Liautung, separated from it by a chain of low mountains, and forms the only interruption to the maritime frontier. Cochinchina and Burmah border on the provinces of Kwangtung, Kwangsi, and Yunnan, in the south-west ; but most of the region near that frontier is inhabited by half-independent tribes of Laos, Singphos, and others. The high ranges of the Himalaya separate Assam, Bootan, Nipal, and states in India from Tibet, whose western border is bounded by the nominally dependent country of Ladak, or if that be ex cluded, by the Karakorum mountains. The kingdoms or states of Lahore, Cashmere, Badakshan, Kokand, and the Kirghis stepp, lie upon the western frontiers of Little Tibet, Ladak, and 111, as far north as the Russian border ; the high range of the Belur- tag or Tsung-ling separates the former countries from the Chi nese territory in this quarter. Russia is conterminous with China from the Kirghis stepp along the Altai chain and Daourian mountains for 3,300 miles to the sea of Okhotsk. The circuit of the whole empire is 12,550 miles, or about half the circum ference of the globe. The coast line from the mouth of the Amur to Hainan is 3350 miles. This immense country com prises about one-third of the continent, and nearly one-tenth of the habitable part of the globe ; and, next to Russia, is the largest empire which has existed on the earth. It will, perhaps, contribute to a better comprehension of the area of the Chinese empire to compare it with some other coun tries. Russia is nearly 6000 miles in its greatest length, and about 1500 in its average breadth, and measures 7,725,000 sq. m., or one-seventh of the land on the globe. The United States of America extends about 3000 miles from the Pacific in a north easterly direction to Maine, and about 1700 from Lake of the Woods to Florida. The area of this territory is now estimated at 2,620,000 sq. m. The area of the British Empire is not far from 6,890,000 sq. m., but the boundaries of some of the colo nies in Hindostan and South Africa are not very definitely laid down ; the superficies of the two colonies of Australia and New Zealand is nearly equal to that of all the other possessions of the British crown. A great portion of the Russian, English, and Chinese empires is uninhabitable, or so situated as never to be capable of supporting a very large population, while the greater DIVISIONS OF THE EMPIRE. 7 part of the territory of the United States is susceptible of culti vation, and capable of subsisting a dense population. The Chinese themselves divide their empire into three princi pal partjg, rather by the different form of government which they adopt in each, than by any geographical arrangement. I. The Eighteen Provinces, or that which is more strictly called China, or China Proper; it is, with trivial additions, the country which was conquered by the Manchus in 1664. II. Manchuria, or the native country of the Manchus, lying north of the gulf of Liautung and east of the Inner Daourian mountains to the Pacific. III. Colonial Possessions, including Mongolia, lli (comprising Sungaria and Eastern Turkestan), Koko-nor, and Tibet. The first of these divisions alone is that to which other nations have given the name of China, and is the only part which is settled by the Chinese. It lies on the eastern slope of the high table land of Central Asia, in the south-eastern angle of the con tinent ; and for beauty of scenery, fertility of soil, salubrity of climate, magnificent and navigable rivers, and variety and abundance of its productions, will compare with any portion of the globe. The common name for this portion of the empire, as distinguished from the rest, is Shih-pah Sang or the Eighteen Pro vinces, but the people themselves most usually mean this part alone by the term Middle Kingdom. The area of the 'Eighteen Provinces is estimated by McCulloch at 1,348,870 sq. m., but if the full area of the provinces of Kansuh and Chihli be included, this sum is not large enough ; the usual estimate is 1,297,999 sq. m. ; Malte Brun reckons* it at 1,482,091 sq. m. ; but the entire dimensions of the Eighteen Provinces, as the Chinese define them, cannot be much under 2,000,000 sq. m., the excess lying in the extension of the two mentioned above. This part, consequently, is rather more than two-fifths of the area of the whole empire. The old limits are, however, more natural, and being better known may still be retained. They give nearly a square form to the provinces, the length from north to south being 1474 miles, and the breadth 1355 miles ; but the diagonal line from the north-east corner to Yunnan is 1669 miles, and that from Amoy to the north-western part of Kansuh is 1557 miles. The coast line from Hainan to Liautung is more than 2500 miles, and the 8 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. line of land frontier 4400 miles. Thus China Proper is about seven times the size of France, and fifteen times that of the United Kingdom ; it is nearly half as large as all Europe, which is 3,650,000 sq. m. The area of China Proper is, however, nearer that of the twenty-eight states of the American Union, which is reckoned to be 1,265,000 sq. m., the superficies of Texas being about the same as those of Iowa and Wisconsin com bined, or 320,000 sq. m. The geographical position of the two countries on the western borders of the two great oceans is another point of likeness, which involves considerable similarity in climate ; there is moreover a further resemblance between the size of the provinces in China and those of the newer states. Before proceeding' to define the three great basins into which China may be divided, it will give a better idea of the whole subject to speak of the mountain ranges which lie within, and those which define the limits of the whole empire. The latter in themselves form almost an entire wall around the empire, inclosing and defining it ; the principal exceptions being the west ern boundaries of Yunnan, and the border between Iii and the Kirghis stepp. Commencing at the north-eastern corner of Manchuria, above the mouth of the Amour, about latitude 56° N., are the first sum mits of the Altai range, which during its long course of 2000 miles takes several names ; this range forms the northern limit of the table land of Central Asia, as well as the boundary between China and Russia. At ils eastern part, the range is called Yablonoi-Khrebet by the Russians, and the Outer Hing-an by the Chinese ; the first name is appfied as far west as the conflu ence of the Songari with the Amour, beyond which, north-west as far as lake Baikal, the Russians call it the Daourian mount ains. The distance from the lake to the ocean is about 600 miles. Beyond lake Baikal, westward, the chain is called the Altai, i. e. Golden Mountains, and sometimes Kin slum, meaning the same thing ; and as far as the Tshulyshman river, separates into two chains, near the Selenga river, running nearly east and west. The southern one, which lies mostly in Mongolia, is called the Tangnu, and rises to a much higher elevation than the northern spur. The Tangnu mountains continue under that name in the Chinese maps in a south-westerly direction, but this chain pro perly joins the Tien shan, or Celestial mountains, in the province BOUNDARIES OF THE EMPIRE. 9 of Cobdo, and continues on until it again unites with the Altai further west, near the junction of the Kirghis stepp with China and Russia, where the range ends. The length of the whole chain is not far from 2500 miles, and except near the Tshulysh man river, does not, so far as is known, rise to the snow line, except in detached peaks. The average elevation is supposed to be not far from 7000 feet, and most of it lies between latitudes 47° and 52° N., forming the longest mountain boundary between any two countries. The next chain is the Belur-tag, Tartash ling, or Onion mountains (Tsung ling), which lies in the south-west of Songaria, separating it from Badakshan ; this range commences about latitude 50° N., nearly at right angles with the Tien shan, and extends southerly, rising to a great height, though little is known of it. It may be considered as the connecting link between the Tien shan and the Kwanlun or Koulkun ; or rather, both this and the latter may be considered as proceeding from a mountain knot in the south-western part of Turkestan called Pushtikhur, the Belur-tag coming from its northern side, while the Kwanlun or Koulkun range issues from its eastern side, and extends across the middle of the table land to the Azure sea, where it diverges into two branches. This mountain knot lies between latitudes 36° and 37° N., and longitudes 70° and 74° E. The Himalaya range proceeds from it south-easterly, along the south ern frontier of Tibet, till it breaks up near the headwaters of the Yangtsz' kiang, Salween, and other rivers between Tibet, Bur mah, and Yunnan, thus nearly completing the circuit of the empire. A small spur from the Yun ling, in the west of Yun nan, in the country of the Singphos and borders of Assam, may also be regarded as forming part of the boundary line. The coast line from Corea, north-easterly to near the mouth of the Amour, is likewise girded by a range of mountains, called Sih-hih-tih on Chinese maps. Within the confines of the empire are four large chains, some of the peaks in their course rising to stupendous elevations, but the ridges generally falling under the snow line. The first is the Tien shan or Celestial mountains, called Tengkiri by the Mongols, and sometimes erroneously Alak mountains. This chain begins at the northern extremity of the Belur-tag in 40° N., or more properly comes in from the west, and extends from 2* 10 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. west to east between longitudes 76° and 90° E., and generally along the 22° of north latitude, dividing lli into Songaria and Turkestan, or Northern and Southern Circuits. Its western por tion is called Muz-tag ; and the Muz-daban, about longitude 79° E., between Gouldja and Oksu, is where the road from north to south runs across, leading over a high glacier above the snow line. East of this occurs a mass of peaks among the highest in Central Asia, called Bogdo-ula ; and at the eastern end, as it declines to the desert, are traces of volcanic action, but no active volcanoes are now known. The volcano of Pi shan is between the glacier and the Bogdo-ula ; it is the only one known in conti nental China. The Celestial mountains end abruptly at their eastern point, where the ridge meets the desert, not far from the meridian of Barkoul in Kansuh, though Humboldt considers the hills in Mongolia a continuation of the range eastward, as far as the Inner Hing-an. The space between the Altai and Tien shan is very much broken up by mountainous spurs, which may be considered as connecting links of them both, though nothing like a regular chain exists. The western prolongation of the Tien shan, under the name of the Muz-tag, extends from the high pass only as far as the junction of the Belur-tag, beyond which, and out of the Chinese Empire, it continues nearly west, south of the river Sihon towards Kodjend, under the names of Ak-tag and Asferah-tag ; this part is covered with perpetual snow. Nearly parallel with the Celestial mountains in part of its course is the Nan Shan, Kwanlun or Koulkun range of moun tains, of which less is known than of the other three great systems. The Koulkun starts from the Pushtikhur knot in latitude 36° N., and runs along easterly in nearly that parallel through the whole breadth of the table land, dividing Tibet from the desert of Gobi in part of its course. About the middle of its extent, not far from longitude 92° E., it divides into two ranges ; one of these declines to the south-east through Koko-nor and Sz'chuen, under the name of the Bayan-kara mountains or Siuch ling (i. e. Snow moun tains), and unites with the Yun ling (i. e. Cloudy mountains), about latitude 33° N. The other branch bends northerly not far from the source of the Yellow river, and under the names of Kihlien shan or Nan shan, In shan, and Ala shan, passes through Kansuh and Shensi to join the Inner Hing-an, not far from the great bend of the Yellow river. Some portion of the country MOUNTAIN ranges. 11 between the extremities of these two ranges is less elevated, but no plains occur, though the northern parts of Kansuh, where the Great Wall runs, are rugged and not very fertile. The large tract between the Tien shan and Koulkun is mostly occupied by the desert of Gobi, but on the southern declivities of the former many large towns are found, and agricultural labors are well repaid. The mineral treasures of the Koulkun are probably great, judging from the many precious stones brought from there, and this desolate region is the favorite locality for the monsters, fairies, genii, and other beings of Chinese legendary lore. The region of Koko-nor is exceedingly rough, forming a moun tain knot, like Pushtikhur, some of the peaks of it rising far above the snow line. From near the headwaters of the Yellow river, there are four small ridges running south-easterly, which con verge so near each other at the confines of Burmah and Yun nan, that they are not more than one hundred miles in breadth. The Yun ling constitutes the western frontier of Sz'chuen, and going south-east into Yunnan, thence turns eastward, under the names of Nan ling, Mei ling, Wu-i shan, and other local terms, passing through Kweichau, Hunan, and dividing Kwangtung and Fuhkien from Kiangsi and Chehkiang, bends north-east till it reaches the sea opposite Chusan. One or two spurs branch off north from this range through Hunan and Kiangsi, as far as the Yangtsz' kiang, but they are all of moderate elevation, covered with forests, and susceptible of cultivation. The descent from the Siueh ling or Bayan-kara mountains, and the western part of the Yun ling, to the Pacific, is very gradual, and few peaks which rise above the snow line are known to occur within the provinces. Another less extensive ridge branches off nearly due east from the Bayan-kara mountains in Koko-nor, and forms a moderately high range of mountains between the Yellow river and Yangtsz' kiang as far as longitude 112° E., on the western borders of Nganhwui ; this range is called Ko-tsing shan, and Peh ling (i. e. Northern mountains), on European maps. These two chains, viz. the Yun ling with its continuation of the Mei ling and the Peh ling, with their numerous offsets, render the whole of the western part of China very uneven, and the people there are more hardy and less polished than their countrymen in the Great Plain. On the east of Mongolia, and commencing near the bend of the Yellow river, or rather forming a continuation of the range 12 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. in Shansi, is the Inner Hing-an ling or Sialkoi, called also Soyorti, which runs north-east on the west side of the basin of the Amour, till it reaches the Outer Hing-an or Yablonoi-Krebet, in latitude 56° N. The sides of the ridge towards the desert are nearly naked, but the eastern acclivities are well wooded and fertile. Another ridge commences near the mouth of the Amour, and runs along south-westerly very near the coast till it terminates at the south end of the Corean peninsula ; it is called the Sih-hih-tih. At its entrance into Corea, a spur strikes off westward through Shingking, called Kolmin-shanguin alin by the Manchus, and Chang-peh shan (i. e. Long White mountains), by the Chinese. Between the Sialkoi and Sih-hih-tih are two smaller ridges defin ing the basin of the Nonni river on the east and west. Little is known of the elevation of these chains, and some of them have never been described by European travellers. The fourth system of mountains is the Himalaya, which bounds Tibet on the south, while the Kwanlun defines it on the north. The ancient country of Tangout occupies the present residency of Koko-nor, and is not included within the limits of Tibet. A small range runs through it from west to east, connected with the Himalaya by a high table land, which surrounds the lakes Man- asa-rowa and Ravan-hrad, and near or-in which are the sources of the Indus, Ganges, and Yaru-tsangbu. This range is called Gang-dis-ri and Zang, and also Kailasa in Dr. Buchanan's map, and its eastern end is separated from the Yun ling by the narrow valley of the Yangtsz' kiang, which here flows from north to south ; little or nothing is known of this range, but most of the peaks are probably above the snow line. The country north of the Gang-dis-ri is divided into two portions by a spur which ex tends in a north-west direction as far as the Koulkun, called the Karakorum mountains. On the western side of this range lies the spacious country of Ladak, drained by one of the largest branches of the Indus ; and although included in the imperial domains on Chinese maps, yet now sends no tribute to his ma jesty. The Karakorum mountains may therefore be taken as forming part of the boundary of the empire ; Chinese geogra phers regard them as forming a continuation of the Tsung ling. Thr.t part of Tibet lying east of them is called Katshe, and con sists of a succession of plains of greater or less extent, but of whose productions, topography, and people, very little is certainly DESERT OF GOBI. 13 known. The regions lying west of the Karakorum mountains have been visited by many travellers, and frequently described. This outline of the mountain chains around and within the Chinese Empire, describes their principal features sufficiently to give an idea of the arrangement of the country. The proportion which is either mountainous or hilly is nearly four-fifths of the empire (if the vast desert of Gobi be left out of the estimate), and most of it will repay the husbandman, some parts of the hilly region in the provinces being among the most populous and fertile districts. Between the Celestial mountains and the Kwanlun range on the south-west, and reaching to the Sialkoi on the north-east, in an oblique direction, lies the great desert of Gobi or Sha-moh, both words signifying desert or sandy sea. The entire length of this waste is more than 1800 miles, but if its limits are extended to the Belur-tag and the Sialkoi, at its western and eastern ex tremity, it will reach 2300 miles ; the average breadth is be tween 350 and 400 miles, subject however to great variations. The area within the mountain ranges which define it is about 1,200,000 square miles, and few of the streams occurring in it find their way to the ocean. The whole of this tract is not a desert, though no part of it can lay claim to more than compara tive fertility ; and the great altitude of most portions seems to be as much the cause of its sterility as the nature of the soil. The western portions of Gobi, lying east of the Tsung ling and north of the Koulkun, between long. 72° and 96° E., and in lat. 36° and 37° N., is about 1200 miles in length, and be tween 300 and 400 across. Along the southern side of the Ce lestial mountains extends a strip of arable land from 50 to 80 miles in width, producing grain, pasturage, cotton, and other things, and in which lie nearly all the Mohammedan cities and forts of the Nan Lu or Southern Circuit, as Kashgar, Oksu, Hami, and others. The Tarim or Yarkand river and its branches flows westward into Lop nor, through the best part of this tract, from 72° to 86° E. ; and along the banks of the Koten river, a road runs from Yarkand to that city, and thence to H'lassa ; here the desert is comparatively narrow. This part is called Han hai, or Mirage sea, by the Chinese, and is sometimes known as the desert of Lop nor. The . remainder of this region is an almost unmitigated waste, and north of Koko-nor assumes its 14 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. most terrific appearance, being covered with dazzling stones, and rendered insufferably hot by the reflection of the sun's rays from these and numerous mountains of sand, which are said to move like waves of the sea. One Chinese author says, " There is neither water, herb, man, nor smoke ; — if there is no smoke, there is ab solutely nothing." The limits of the western portion of the Desert are not easily defined, for near the base of the mountain ranges, streams and vegetation are usually found. Near the meridian of Hami, long. 96° E., the desert is nar rowed to about 150 miles, and this portion is also less level, more stony, and possesses some tracts affording pasturage. The road from Kiayii kwan to Hami runs across this narrow part, and travellers find water at various places in their route. It in fact divides Gobi into two parts, the desert of Lop nor and the Ta Gobi, the former being about 4500 feet elevation, and the eastern not usually rising as high as 4000 feet. The province of Kan- suh has been extended quite across this tract to the foot of the Tien. shan. The eastern part of it or Great Gobi stretches from the east ern declivity of the Celestial mountains, in long. 96° to 120° E., and about lat. 40° N., as far as the Inner Hing-an ; and its width between the Altai and the In shan range varies from 500 to 700 miles. Through the middle of this tract extends the de pressed valley properly called Sha-moh (i. e. Sandy floats), from 150 to 200 miles across, and whose lowest depression is from 2600 to 3000 feet above the sea. Sand almost entirely covers the surface of this valley, generally level, but sometimes rising into low hills. Such vegetation as occurs is scanty and stunted, affording indifferent pasture, and the water in the numerous small streams and lakes is brackish and unpotable. North and south of the Sha-moh, the surface is gravelly and sometimes rocky, the Vegetation more vigorous, and in many places affords good pas turages for the herds of the Kalkas tribes. In those portions bordering on or included in Chihli province, among the Tsak- hars, agricultural labors are repaid, and millet, wheat, and barley are produced, though not to a great extent. Trees are met with on the water courses, but they do not form forests. There are no large inland streams in the part of Gobi north of China, but on its north-eastern borders are some large tributaries of the Amour. On the south of the Sialkoi range, the desert lands RIVERS OF CHINA. 15 reach nearly to the Chang-peh shan north of Liautung, about five degrees beyond those mountains. The general features of this portion of the earth's surface are less forbidding than Sahara, but more so than the stepps of Siberia or the pampas of Buenos Ayres. The rivers of China are her glory, and no country can com pare with her for natural facilities of inland navigation, and the people themselves consider that portion of geography relating to their rivers as the most interesting, and give it the greatest atten tion. The four largest rivers in the empire are the Yellow river, the Yangtsz' kiang, the Hehlung kiang or Amour, and the Tarim or Yarkand ; the Yaru-tsangbu also runs more than a thousand miles within its borders. Of these magnificent streams, the Yellow river is the most celebrated, though the Yangtsz' kiang is the largest and most useful. The Hwang ho, or Yellow river, rises in the Singsuh hai or Hotun nor (i. e. sea of Constellations), a marshy plain lying between the Bayan-kara and Kwanlun mountains, in which a great number of springs or lakelets unite in two larger ones called Ala nor, in latitude 35£° N., and about longitude 96° E. Its course is so crooked after it leaves Ala nor, that it turns first south 30 miles, then east 160, then nearly west about 120, wind ing about the gorges of the Kwanlun ; and lastly flows north-east and east to Lanchau fu in Kansuh, having gone about 700 miles in its devious line. From Lanchau fu, it turns northward along the Great Wall for 430 miles, till it is bent eastward by the In shan, on the edge of the table land, and incloses the country of the Ortous Mongols within this great bend. A spur of the Peh ling deflects it south, about longitude 110° E., between Shansi and Shensi for about 500 miles till it enters the Great Plain, hav ing run 1130 miles from Lanchau fu. In this part of its course it becomes tinged with the clay which imparts both color and name to it ; at the northern bend it separates in several small lakes and branches, and during this part of its course, for more than 500 miles, receives not a single stream of any size, while it is still so large and rapid in Shansi as to demand great pre cautions when crossing it by boats. At the south-western corner of Shansi, the Yellow river receives its largest tributary, the river Wei, which comes in from the westward after a course of 400 miles, and is more available, so far as means of navigation are now 16 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. had among the Chinese, than the whole of its mighty competitor. From this angular turn, the main stream flows on eastward about 650 miles, in some parts of Honan above the plain on its sides, and finally disembogues itself in solitude about latitude 34°, — bearing the character of a mighty, impracticable, turbid, furious stream throughout most of its long route. The area of its basin is estimated at 700,000 sq. m., and although its source is only 1290 miles in a direct line from its mouth, its numerous windings prolong its course to nearly double that distance. It is but little used by the Chinese for navigation, and the cities on its banks are in constant jeopardy of being submerged. Foreign skill and science are necessary to teach the people how to restrain its fury, and western steamers alone can stem its impetuous current, and make it a channel for commerce. In its progress, the Yellow river receives fewer important tributaries than any other large river in the world, except the Nile. The principal are the Wei and Lu in Shensi, and the Fan in Shansi, and the waters of lake Hungtsih in Kiangsu. Far more tranquil and useful is its rival, the Yangtsz' kiang (i. e. Son of the Ocean), called also simply Kiang or Ta kiang, the River, or Great river ; it is often erroneously named on west ern maps, " Kyang Ku," which merely means " mouth of the river." The sources of the Kiang are not well known, partly owing to the difficulty of ascertaining which of its numerous branches is the principal. So far as can be ascertained, three small streams on the south-western side of the Bayan-kara, in the meridian of Tengkiri nor in Tibet, longitude 89° E., and about 200 miles west of the Singsuh hai, unite to form the Murus- ussu (in Chinese, Muhlusu), which is soon after joined by three otlier streams, all of which may be considered its headwaters. There is no authentic account of its course from this union till it joins the Yahlung kiang in Yunnan, a distance of nearly 1300 miles ; but Chinese maps indicate a south-westerly direction, through the gorges of the Bayan-kara and Yun ling, till it bursts out from the mountains in latitude 26° N., where it turns north east. During much of this distance it bears the name of the Po-lai-tsz'. The Yahlung river rises very near the Yellow river, and runs parallel with the Kiang in a valley further east, flowing upwards of 600 miles before they join. Large rafts of timber are floated down both these streams, for sale at the towns RIVERS OF CHINA. 17 further east, but no boats of any size are seen on them before they leave the mountains. The town of Batang, in latitude 29° N., is the first large place on the river, the region beyond that being almost uninhabitable. The main trunk is called Kinsha kiang (i. e. Golden-sand River), until it receives the Yahlung kiang in the southern part of Sz'chuen, which the Chinese there regard as the principal stream of the two ; beyond the junction, the united river is called Ta kiang, or Great river, as far as Wuchang fu, the capital of Hupeh, where it takes its best known name of Yangtsz' kiang. Its general course from this point is easterly, receiving various tributaries on both shores, and passing through several lakes, until it discharges its waters at Tsungming island, by two mouths, in latitude 32° N., more than 1850 miles from its mouth in a direct line, but flowing nearly 3000 miles in all its windings. One of the largest and most useful of all the tributaries it receives in its lower course is the Kan kiang in Kiangsi, which empties through the Poyang lake, and continues the transverse communication across the provinces from north to south, con necting with the Grand Canal. The Tungting lake receives two large rivers, the Siang and Yuen, which drain the northern sides of the Nan ling in Hunan. These are on the south ; the Han kiang in Hupeh, and the Kialing in Sz'chuen, are the main affluents on the north, contributing the drainings of the country south of the Peh ling. The Grand Canal comes in at Chinkiang fu, and from thence the deep channel of the Son of the Ocean, able to carry the largest men-of-war on its bosom, finds its way to the Pacific. Much of the silt brought down by this and the Yellow river is carried across to the Japanese coast, and is no doubt gradually filling up the Yellow sea. No two rivers can be more unlike in their general features than these two mighty streams. While the Yellow river is unsteady, the Yangtsz' is uniform and deep in its lower course, and available for rafts from Batang in the western confines of Sz'chuen, and for boats from beyond Tungchuen fu in Yunnan, more than 1700 miles from its mouth. Its great body and depth afford ample room for the largest ships 200 miles, as far as Nanking, and probably scores of miles beyond that city, where in some places no bot tom could be found at twenty fathoms, and ships anchored in ten fathoms almost among the rushes ; while the banks are not so low 18 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. as to be injured or overflown to any great extent by the freshes. The tides are perceptible 400 miles to Kiukiang at the embou chure of the Poyang lake, in Kiangsi. No river in the world exceeds this for the arrangement of its subsidiary streams, which render the whole basin accessible, and no interruption of import ance is experienced by waterfalls. The basin drained by the Yangtsz' kiang is estimated at 750,000 sq. m., and from its almost central course, and the number of provinces through which it passes, it has been termed the Girdle of China ; and has given rise, among the people, to the expressions " south and north of the river," and " beyond the river," to designate those living on its further banks.* Besides these two principal rivers and their large branches, numerous others empty into the ocean along the coast from Hai nan to Sagalien, three of which are some hundreds of miles in length, draining large tracts of country, and affording access to many populous cities and districts. The third basin is that south of the Nan ling to the ocean, and is drained chiefly by the Chu kiang, though its form is much less regular than those of the Yellow river and Yangtsz' kiang. The Chu kiang, like most of the rivers in China, has many names during its course, and is formed by three principal branches, respectively called East, North, and West rivers, according to the quarter from whence they come. The last is by far the largest, and all of them are navigable most of their distances. They all disembogue at Can ton, and drain a region of not much less than 200,000 sq. m., being all the country east of the Yun ling and south of the Nan ling ranges. The rivers in Yunnan, for the most part, empty into the Saigon, Meikom, and other streams in Cochinchina. The Min river, which flows by Fuhchau fu, the Tsih, upon which Ningpo lies, the Tsientang leading up to Hangchau fu, and the Pei ho, or White river, emptying into the gulf of Pechele, are the most considerable among these lesser outlets in the pro vinces ; while the Liau ho and Yahyuen kiang, discharging into the gulf of Liautung, are the only two that deserve mention in southern Manchuria. The difference in this respect between the Chinese coast and that of the United States is very striking, * Penny Cyclopaedia, Arts. Yellow River and Yang-tse kiang. Chinese Repository, vol. II., page 316. LAKES OF CHINA. 19 resulting from the different direction of the mountain chains in the interior. The lakes of China are comparatively few and small, and all in the provinces of any size lie within the Plain, and are con nected with the two great rivers. The largest is the Tungting hu in Hunan, about 220 miles in circumference, which receives the waters of the Siang and Yuen rivers, and furnishes an im portant affluent to the Yangtsz' kiang. This lake is situated in the south-western part of an extensive depression in Hupeh, lying on both sides of this river, in which are many smaller lakes con necting with it, the whole area being about 200 miles long and 80 broad. About 320 miles eastward, lies the Poyang lake in Kiangsi, which also discharges the surplus waters of the basin of the Kan kiang into the Yangtsz'. It is nearly 90 miles long, and about 20 in breadth, inclosing within its bosom many beau tiful and populous islets. The scenery around this lake is highly picturesque, and its trade and fisheries are more important than those of the Tungting lake. The Yangtsz' receives the waters of several other lakes as it approaches the ocean, the largest of which are the Great lake near Suchau fu, and the Tsau hu lying on the northern bank, between Nganking fu and Nanking ; both these lakes join the river by navigable streams, and the former is connected with the ocean by more than one channel. The only lake of any size connected with the Yellow river is the Hungtsih hu in Kiangsu, situated near the junction of that river and the Grand Canal, into which it discharges the drainings of the Hwai river ; it is more remarkable for the fleets of boats upon it than for the scenery around it. Most of the whole country between the mouths of the two rivers is so marshy and full of lakes, as to suggest the idea that the whole was once an enor mous estuary where their waters joined, or else that their deposits have filled up a large lake which once occupied this tract, leav ing only a number of lesser sheets. Besides these, there are other lakes in Chihli and Shantung, and one or two of consider able extent in Yunnan ; all of them support an aquatic popula tion, who subsist principally on the fish found in their waters. The largest lake in Manchuria is the Hinkai nor in Kirin, near the source of the Osouri ; the two lakes Hurun and Pir, in the basin of the Nonni river, give their name to Hurun-pir, the western district of Tsitsihar ; but of the extent and productions 20 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. of these sheets of water there is little known. A small one in Shingking on the Chang-pih shan is celebrated among the Manchus from its connection with the legend concerning the celestial ori gin of the present reigning family : — Three divine females were bathing in this lake, when a magpie brought the youngest of them a fruit, which she ate and became the mother of a son, the ances tor of the reigning Manchu monarchs. The regions lying on the north and south of Gobi are remark able for their inland salt lakes, none of them individually com paring with the Aral sea, but collectively covering a much larger extent, and most of them receiving the waters of the streams which drain their own isolated basins. The peculiarities of these little known parts, especially the depression on each side of the Celestial mountains, are such as to render them among the most interesting fields for geographical research in the world, and it is highly probable that erelong they will be more fully explored. The largest one in Turkestan is Lop nor, stated to be about 70 miles long and 30 wide ; Bostang nor, north of it about 30 miles, and connecting with it, is nearly as large. North of the Celestial mountains, the lakes are larger and more numerous; the Dzaisang, Kisil-bash and Issikul are the most important. So far as is known all these lakes are salt, and it would be an inte resting question to solve by their examination whether any in closed sheet of water receiving a river necessarily becomes salt by evaporation ; no region could afford so satisfactory a solution as Songaria. The whole region of Koko-nor is a country of lakes. The Oling and Dzaring are among the sources of the Yellow river; and the Tsing hai or Azure sea, better known as Koko-nor, gives its name to the province. The notion, that the Azure sea is the source of the Yangtsz' kiang, was the origin of the term Blue river, applied to that stream. The Tengkiri nor in Tibet lies to the north of H'lassa, and is one of the largest out of the provinces; in its neighborhood are numerous small lakes extending north ward into Koko-nor. The Palti or Yamorouk is shaped like a ring, the island in its centre occupying nearly the whole surface. Ulterior Tibet possesses many lakes on both sides of the Gang-dis-ri range ; the Yik and Paha, near Gobi, are the largest. Tengkiri nor is the largest within the frontiers of the Chinese empire. BOUNDARIES OF THE PROVINCES. 21 The Eighteen Provinces are bounded on the north-east by Liautung and Inner Mongolia as far as Kalgan in Chihli ; west of this mart, the Great Wall divides the northern provinces from -he Mongolian deserts as far as the Kiayii pass in Kansuh, beyond which the desert of Gobi lies on the north of that province. On the east, lie the gulf of Pechele or Peh hai (i. e. North sea), and the Yellow sea or Tung hai (i. e. Eastern sea), as far south as the channel of Formosa. This channel and the China sea lie on the south-east and south, as far as the gulf of Tongking and the confines of Annam. The south-east is bounded by portions of" Assam and Tibet, but nearly the whole south-west and western frontiers beyond Yunnan and Sz'chuen, are possessed by small tribes of uncivilized people, over whom neither the Chinese nor Burmese have much real control. Those living in Koko-nor belong to the Mongol race, and that province bounds Sz'chuen and Kansuh on their western and south-western sides. This whole country is at present divided into eighteen pro vinces, the emperor Kienlung having subdivided three of the largest, which are usually arranged by the Chinese in the follow ing 6rder : Chihli, Shantung, Shansi, and Honan, on the north ; Kiangsu, Nganhwui, Kiangsi, Chehkiang, and Fuhkien, on the east ; Hupeh and Hunan, in the centre ; Shensi, Kansuh, and Sz'chuen, on the west ; and Kwangtung, Kwangsi, Yunnan, and Kweichau, on the south. Of these, Kiangsu and Nganhwui were formerly united under the name of Kiangnan ; Hupeh and Hunan under that of Hukwang ; and Kansuh once formed part of Shensi, but has since been detached and made to include the region across the desert towards Hami and the confines of Son garia. The island of Hainan forms one department in the pro vince of Kwangtung, the western half of Formosa a department of Fuhkien, and the Chusan archipelago a single district in the department of Ningpo in Chehkiang. The coast of China is lined throughout the whole extent, from Hainan to the mouth of the Yangtsz' kiang, with multitudes of islands and rocky islets ; from that point northward to Liautung, the shores are low, and the coast rendered dangerous to vessels by shoals. The western shores of Corea are high and bold, guarded with numerous groups of small islands ; but from the peninsula called the Regent's Sword, northward and westward 22 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. around the shores of the gulfs of Liautung and Pechele, down to the promontory of Shantung, the coast is low and shallow ; a chain of islets and reefs extends across the gulf from the penin sula to the prqmontory. Near the mouth of Pei ho, the shores are so low as with^difficulty to be distinguished from the distant anchorage, where the shallowness of the water obliges ships to lie. The bay of Tungtsz' kau, on the west of the peninsula, marks the termination of the Great Wall, and so distinct and high are its course and towers to be seen from the anchorage 15 miles off, that it forms a conspicuous mark for the guidance of ships. South of the embouchure of the Pei ho, extending to the ex tremity of Shantung promontory, the coast is somewhat bolder, in creasing in height after passing the Miautau islands, though neither side of the promontory presents any point of remarkable elevation; cape Macartney, at the eastern end, is a conspicuous bluff when approaching it from sea. From this cape to the mouth of the Tsientang near Chapu, a distance of about 400 miles, the coast is for the most part low, especially between the mouths of the Yangtsz' kiang and Yellow river, and has but few good harbors. Owing to the quicksands in the regions near these rivers, the navigation is very dangerous to native junks, and by no means without hazard to foreign vessels. South of Kitto point near Ningpo, as far down as Hongkong, the shores assume a much bolder aspect, and numerous small bays occur among the islands affording safe refuge for vessels plying up and down the coast, when the tempests and currents of the Formosa channel force them to seek shelter. The aspect of the shores in this part is uninviting in the extreme, consisting principally of a succession of cliffs and headlands of a clayey color, and giving little promise of the highly cultivated country beyond them. This bleak appearance is in many places caused by the rains washing the decomposed soil off the surface, the rock being granite or disin tegrated feldspar and quartz with little adhesion, so that the loose soil is easily carried down into the intervales. Another reason for its uninviting appearance, is owing to the practice of the in habitants of this part of the coast, of annually cutting the coarse grass growing on the hills for fuel, and after the crop is gathered, setting the stubble on fire in order to manure the soil for the coming year ; the fire and thinness of the soil together, com- CHARACTER OF THE COAST. 23 pletely prevent any large growth of trees or shrubbery upon the hills. The estuary of the Pearl river from the Bocca Tigris down to the Grand Ladrones, a distance of 70 miles, and from Hongkong on the east to the island of Tungku on the west, about 100 miles, is interspersed with islands of greater or lesser size. Proceeding westward from the neighborhood of Macao, the coast is not much known to foreigners, except by the numerous ship wrecks in one part and another of it, especially on the shoals and reefs lining the southern shores of Hainan, which have given it a melancholy notoriety. In its general aspect, this part of the coast resembles that between Hongkong and Amoy. The narrow strait which separates Hainan from the peninsula of Luichau, has been supposed to be the place called by Arabian travellers in the 9th century, the Gates of China, but that channel was probably near the Chusan archipelago. In this rapid survey of the coast-line, only the principal features have been noticed. The Chusan archipelago off the coast of Chehkiang, does not properly belong to the long chain of islands which borders the eastern shores of Asia, from Behring's strait to the Indian archipelago ; it is rather a detached group form ing the termination of the mountain chain which passes through Chehkiang. The island of Formosa, or Taiwan, forms a large link in that chain, connecting the islands of Japan and Lewchew with Luconia. Between Formosa and the coast, lie the Pesca dores or Panghu islands, but this group is much less in extent and number than the Chusan islands, and the harbors are few. The whole coast, indeed, has comparatively few excellent harbors, but the number of refuges from the tempest of greater or less security is great, and most of them are easily entered ; the in terval between Chapu and the promontory of Shantung, and the whole circuit of the gulf of Pechele, present fewer of them than the other parts. The recent examinations by the English sur veying ships, urider the command of captains Collinson, Kellett, and others, of the coast between Hongkong and Shanghai, and of the Peseadore and Chusan archipelagoes, have added so much to previous knowledge, that the navigator can now avail himself of all the havens. The Chinese, have prepared itineraries of all the places, headlands, islands, &c, along the entire coast for the 24 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. use of junks, but they do not afford much valuable information, except with regard to the names of positions.* The first objects that invite attention in the general aspect of China are the great plains in the north-east, and the three longi tudinal basins into which the country is divided by the two lead ing mountain chains. The three great rivers which drain these basins flow through them very irregularly, but by means of their main trunks and the tributaries, water communication is easily kept up, not only from west to east along the great courses, but also across the country. These natural facilities for inland na vigation have been greatly improved by the people, but they still need the aim of steam to assist them in stemming the rapid cur. rents of some of their rivers, and bringing distant places into more frequent communication. The whole surface of China may be conveniently divided into the mountainous and hilly country, and the Great Plain. The mountainous country comprehends more than half of the whole, lying west of the meridian of 112° or 114° (nearly that of Canton), quite to the borders of Tibet. The hilly portion is that south of the Yangtsz' kiang and east of this meridian, compris ing the provinces of Fuhkien, Kiangsi, Kwangtung, and parts of Hunan and Hupeh. The Great Plain lies in the north-east, and forms the richest part of the empire. This Plain extends in length 700 miles from the Great Wall north of Peking to the confluence of the river Kan with the Yangtsz' kiang in Kiangsi, lat. 30° N. The latter river may be considered as its southern boundary as far down as Nganking fu, the capital of Nganhwiu, in lat. 30° 27' N., whence to the sea it is formed by a line drawn nearly east through Hangchau fu. The western boundary may be marked by a line drawn from Kingchau fu in Hupeh (lat. 30° 33'), nearly due north to Hwai- king fu on the Yellow river, and thence due north to the Great Wall about 50 miles north-west of Peking. The breadth of the Plain varies. North of lat. 35°, where it partly extends to the Yellow sea, and partly borders on the western sicle of the moun tains in Shantung promontory, its width varies between 150 and 250 miles ; stating the average at 200 miles, this portion of the * Chinese Repository, vol. V„ p. 337; vol. X. pp. 351, 371. Chinese Commercial Guide, chap. 1. THE GREAT WALL. 25 plain covers an area of 70,000 square miles. Between 34° and 35°, the Plain enlarges, and in the parallel of the Yellow river it extends more than 300 miles from east to west ; while further south, along the course of the Yangtsz' kiang, it reaches nearly 400 miles inland. Estimating the mean breadth of this portion at 400 miles, there are 140,000 square miles ; which, with the northern part, make an area of 210,000 square miles — a surface seven times as large as that of Lombardy, and about the same area as the plain of Bengal drained by the Ganges. The north ern portion towards the Great Wall is dry and sandy, destitute of trees, but producing millet, wheat, and vegetables in abun dance ; that lying near the coast in Kiangsu, south of lat. 35° N., is low and swampy, covered by numerous lakes, and inter sected by many water courses. This portion of the plain is ex tremely fertile, and furnishes large quantities of silk, tea, cotton, grain, and tobacco, for the consumption of other provinces. Pro ceeding inland, the soil becomes more firm, and produces these articles in great abundance. The eastern portion of the Plain is traversed by the Grand Canal, which not only serves to facilitate communication, but also to drain some of the elevated swampy portions. The most interesting feature of this Plain is the enor mous population it supports, which is, according to the census of 1812, not less than 177 millions of human beings, if the whole number of inhabitants contained in the six provinces which lie wholly or partly in it be included ; making it by far the most densely settled of any part of the world of the same size, and amounting to nearly two-thirds of the whole population of Europe.* The public works of China are probably unequalled in any land or by any people, for the amount of human labor bestowed upon them ; the natural aspect of the country has been mate rially changed by them ; and it has been remarked that the Great Wall is the only artificial structure which would arrest attention in a hasty survey of the surface of the globe. But their use- fulness, or the science exhibited in their construction, is far in ferior to their extent. The Great Wall, called Wan-li Chang (i. e. Myriad-mile Wall) by the Chinese, was built by Tsin Chi- * Penny Cyclopaedia, Vol. VII., page 74 ; McCulloch's Geographical Dic tionary, Vol. I., page 596. 3 26 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. hwangti about b. c. 220, in-order to protect his dominions from the incursions of the northern tribes. It is sufficient evidence of the solidity of its original construction, that it has remained so well preserved in a region of frosts and moisture. The ships of the English Expedition visited the point on the coast of Liautung, at Shanhai wei, latitude 40° 4' N., longitude 120° 2' E., where it commences its course, and which is described as a place of considerable trade ; the gate here is called Shanhai kioan or Hill- sea barrier. Lord Jocelyn describes it, when observed from the ships, as " scaling the precipices and topping the craggy hills of the country, which have along this coast a most desolate appearance." It runs along the shore for several miles, and terminates on the beach near a long reef. Its course from this point is west, a little northerly, along the old frontiers of the province of Chihli, and then in Shansi, till it strikes the Yellow river, in latitude 39£° N., and longitude 111£° E. This is the best built part, and contains the most important gates, where garrisons and trading marts are established. Within the province of Chihli there are two walls, inclosing a good part of the basin of the Hang ho west of Peking ; the inner one was built by one of the emperors of the Ming dy nasty. From the point where it strikes the Yellow river it forms the northern boundary of Shensi, till it touches that stream again in latitude 37° N., inclosing the country of the Ortous Mongols. Its direction from this point is north-west along the northern fron tier of Kansuh to its termination near Kiayii kwan, through which the great road passes leading across Central Asia, in about lon gitude 99° E., and latitude 40° N. From near the eastern extremity of the Wall in the province of Chihli, extending in a north-easterly direction, is a wooden stock ade or palisade, which forms the boundary between Liautung and Kirin, and has been often taken from its representation on maps as a continuation of the Great Wall. It was erected by the Man chus, and garrisons are placed at the twelve gates through which the roads pass leading from Shingking into Mongolia. The entire length of the Great Wall, including all the doublings, is estimated by McCulloch at 1250 miles. The construction of this gigantic work is somewhat adapted to the nature of the country it traverses. In the western part of its course, it is less substantially built than in the eastern, being in some places merely a mud or gravel wall, and in others earth cased with brick. THE GRAND CANAL. 27 The eastern part is generally composed of a mound of earth and pebbles, faced with masonry, supported on a coping of stone, the whole being about 25 feet thick at the base, and 15 feet at the top, and varying from 15 to 30 feet high ; the top is terraced with tiles, and defended by a slight parapet, the thinness of which has been taken as proof that cannon were unknown at the time it was erected. There are brick towers upon it at different inter vals, some of them more than 40 feet high, but the usual height is a little under that elevation. They are not built upon the Wall, but are independent structures, usually about forty feet square at the base, diminishing to thirty at the top ; at particular spots the towers are of two stories, when they are nearly fifty feet in height. This remarkable structure did, no doubt, in some degree, serve as a barrier against the incursions of the nomadic tribes near it for many ages after its erection, though it is plain from the facts of history that it availed but little against the attacks of their enterprising chieftains. At present it is simply a geographical boundary, and, except at the passes, nothing is done to keep it in repair ; most of the garrisons are located at these points. Be yond the Yellow river to its western extremity, the Great Wall, according to Gerbillon, is chiefly a mound of earth or gravel, about fifteen feet in height, with only occasional towers of brick, or gateways made of stone. A structure of this sort, in such a climate, must of course soon be overgrown with trees of greater or less size, but none of those who mention having crossed it speak of this circumstance, from which it might be inferred that care was taken to prevent the growth of plants upon it. The other great public work is the Grand Canal, or Chah ho (i. e. river of Flood-gates) called also Yun ho (i. e. Transit river), — an enterprise which reflects far more credit upon the Mongol monarch who devised and executed it, than the Great Wall does to the Chinese conqueror ; and if the time in which it was dug, and the character of the princes who planned it, be considered, few works can be mentioned in the history of any country more creditable and useful. By means of its connection with the rivers which flow into it, an almost entire water com munication across the country from Peking to Canton is com pleted ; and, through the two great rivers, goods and passengers can pass from the capital to nearly every large town in their basins. The canal properly commences at Lintsing chau in Shan- 28 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. tung, in about latitude 37° N., and longitude 116° E., though its northern termination is generally placed at Tientsin fu near Pe king. An abridged account of Davis's remarks (Sketches, vol. i., p. 245) will afford a good idea of its construction and appearance. " Early on the 23d September, we entered the canal through two stone piers and between very high banks. The mounds of earth in the immediate vicinity were evidently for the purpose of effect ing repairs, which, to judge from the vestiges of inundation on either side, could not be infrequent. The canal joins the Yu ho whicii we had just quitted, on its eastern bank, as that river flows towards the Pei ho. One of the most striking features of the canal is the comparative clearness of its waters, when con trasted with that of the two rivers on which we had hitherto tra velled ; a circumstance reasonably attributable to the depositions occasioned by the greater stillness of its contents. The course of the canal at this point was evidently in the bed of a natural river, as might be perceived from its winding course, and the irregularity and inartificial appearance of its banks.* The stone abutments and floodgates are for the purpose of regulating its waters, which at present were in excess and flowing out of it. As we proceeded on the canal, the stone floodgates or sluices oc curred at the rate of three or four a day, sometimes oftener, ac cording as the inequalities in the surface of the country rendered them necessary. " As we advanced, the canal in some parts became narrower, and the banks had rather more of an artificial appearance than where we first entered it, being occasionally pretty high ; but still the winding course led to the inference, that as yet the canal was for the most part only a natural river, modified and regu lated by sluices and embankments. The distance between the stone piers in some of the floodgates was apparently so narrow as only just to admit the passage of our largest boats. The con trivance for arresting the course of the water through them was extremely simple ; stout boards, with ropes fastened to each end, were let down edgewise over each other through grooves in the stone piers. A number of soldiers and workmen always attended * This is supposed, with a great degree of probability, to have been once the bed of the Yellow river, or of one of its mouths, whose waters found their way north-eastward through the marshes near Kaifung fu in Honan. Biot has written a memoir upon the subject. THE GRAND CANAL. 29 at the sluices, and the danger to the boats was diminished by coils of rope being hung down at the sides to break the force of blows. The slowness of our progress, which for the last week averaged only twenty miles a day, gave us abundant leisure to ob serve the country " We now began to make better progress on the canal than we had hitherto done. The stream, though against us, was not strong, except near the sluices, where it was confined. In the afternoon we stopped at Kai-ho chin (i. e. River-opening mart), so called, perhaps, because the canal was commenced near here. On the 28th, we arrived at the influx of the Yun ho, where the stream turned in our favor, and flowed to the southward, being the highest point of the canal, and a place of some* note. The Yun ho flows into the canal on its eastern side nearly at right angles, and a part of its waters flow north and part south, while a strong facing of stone on the western bank sustains the force of the influx. At this point is the temple of the Dragon King, or genius of the watery element, who is supposed to have the canal in his special keeping. This enterprise of leading in this river seems to have been the work of Sung Li, who lived under Hungwu, the first emperor of the Ming dynasty, about 1375. In his time, a part of the canal in Shantung became so impassable that the coasting passage by sea began to be most used. This was the very thing the canal had been intended to prevent ; Sung accordingly adopted the plan of an old man named Piying, to concentrate the waters of the Yun ho and neighboring streams, and bring them down upon the canal as they are at present. History states that Sung employed 300,000 men to carry the plan into operation, and that the work was completed in seven months. On both sides of us, nearly level with the canal, were extensive swamps with a shallow covering of water, planted with the Nelumbium ; they were occasionally separated by narrow banks, along which the trackers walked, and the width of the canal sometimes did not exceed 25 yards. On reaching the part which skirts the Tu-shan lake, the left bank was entirely sub merged, and the canal confounded with the lake. All within sight was swamp, coldness, and desolation — in fact, a vast inland sea, as many of the large boats at a distance were hull down. The swamps on the following day were kept out of sight by some 30 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. decent villages on the high banks, which from perpetual accumu lation, assumed in some places the aspect of hills. " A part of our journey on the first of October lay along a portion of the canal where the banks, particularly to the right, were elaborately and thoroughly faced with stone ; a precaution which seemed to imply a greater than ordinary danger from inundations. In fact, the lakes or rather floods seemed to extend at present nearly to the feet of the mountains which lay at a dis tance on our left. We were now approaching that part of China which is exposed to the disastrous overflowings of the Yellow river, a perpetual source of wasteful expenditure to the govern ment, and of peril and calamity to the people ; it well deserves the name of China's Sorrow. We observed the repairs of the banks diligently proceeding under the superintendence of the proper officer. For this purpose they use the natural soil in combination with the thick stalks of the gigantic millet." The Canal crosses the Yellow river about 70 miles from its mouth, or rather flows into it, for the artificial level on both sides is much above the natural. When it leaves the lakes in the southern part of Shantung, the canal runs nearly parallel with the Hwang ho for more than a hundred miles, and between it and the New Salt river for a good part of this distance. The crossing of this rapid stream is a matter of some difficulty if the weather be boisterous, but when Amherst's embassy passed, the boats struck right across the stream without observing any order, and gained the opposite bank, about three quarters of a mile dis tant, in less than an hour. Barrow says the boatmen iu every barge sacrificed a fowl and a pig, or some other animals, and daubed the blood and hair upon the principal parts of the vessel ; on the bow was placed an oblation of spirits, oil, salt, rice, meats, &c, and when the boat reached the middle of the stream, the captain poured the cups of liquids into the water, while a man at his side beat a gong violently, and others burned a quantity of fire-crackers and gilt paper. On safely reaching the opposite bank, the Dragon King was again addressed in a volley of crack ers, as a token of thanks for his propitious aid ; and the captain and crew feasted on the offerings. The ceremonies observed when the second English embassy crossed were less formal. The boats were drifted about two miles down the river, and then slowly brought up against the current to the spot where the canal THE GRAND CANAL. 31 entered. This opening was a sluice nearly a hundred yards across, and through it the waters rushed into the river like a mill race ; the banks were constructed of earth, intermingled and strengthened with straw and reeds of millet, and strongly bound with cordage. Numerous boats were anchored on the banks of the river, laden with the stalks of plants ready to be carried to every part. The boats are dragged through and up the sluice close to the bank by means of ropes communicating with large windlasses worked on the bank, which safely, though slowly, bring them into still water. This was not, however, the canal, but an outlet of the Hungtsih lake, which emptied itself both into the Hwang ho and Canal. The entrance of the southern divi sion of the canal is further south, and a good deal of contrivance has been employed in constructing the embankments and regu lating the course of the waters. Artificial basins have been hol lowed out in the banks of the river, where the boats can securely anchor, and between them are other embankments and sluices similar to the one leading into the river, up or down which the boats are taken by ropes worked by windlasses. These basins and sluices serve the same purposes as locks in western canals. The distance between the Hwang ho and Yangtsz' kiang is about 90 miles, and the canal is carried through the whole space upon a mound of earth kept together by retaining walls of stone, and not less than twenty feet above the surrounding country iu some parts ; this sheet of water is about 200 feet wide, and its current about three miles an hour. It is, however, carried gene rally through the lowest levels, and serves as a drain to large tracts of marshy country north of the Yellow river. South of that stream, several large towns stand near its banks, below their level, whose safety wholly depends upon the care taken of the banks of the canal. The city of Hwai-ngan fu, and town of Pauying, stand below and near its banks in such a position as to cause an involuntary shudder at the thought of the destruction which would take place if the banks should give way. The level descends from these towns to the Yangtsz' kiang, and at Yangchau fu the canal is much below the houses on its sides ; it also connects with every stream or lake in its progress, whose waters can be led into it. The repair of the embankments annu ally demands vast sums, but the outlay for this line is but a small part of the total expenditures for this purpose. There are two 32 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. or three inlets into the Yangtsz' kiang, where the canal joins its northern bank, but Chinkiang fu on the southern shore is regarded as the principal defence and post of its crossing. The canal leaves the river east of that city, and proceeds south-easterly to Suchau fu, and thence southerly on the eastern side of lake Tai, with which it communicates, to Hangchau in Chehkiang. This portion is by far the most interesting and picturesque of the whole line for the rich and populous cities the traveller passes, the fer tility and high cultivation of the banks, and the lively aspect the multitude of boats gives to the canal. The channel between the two great rivers was made in the seventh century by princes of the Tang dynasty ; that from Lintsing chau, or the Yu ho, to the Yellow river, was dug by the Mongols in the thirteenth cen tury ; and the southern part, to Hangchau fu, was completed by the Chinese, under the Ming dynasty in the fourteenth century. Its entire length is about 650 miles, or not quite twice that of the Erie Canal, but it varies in its breadth and depth more than any European canal. As a work of art, compared with canals now existing in west ern countries, the Transit river does not rank high ; but even at this day there is no work of the kind in Asia which can compare with it, and there was none in the world equal to it when it was first put in full operation. It passes through alluvial soil in every part of its course, and the chief labor was expended in construct ing embankments, and not in digging a deep channel. The junction of the Yun ho, about latitude 36° N., was probably taken as the summit level ; from this point northward, the trench was dug through to Lintsing to join the Yu ho, and embankments thrown up from the same place southward to the Yellow river, the whole being a line of two hundred miles. In some places the bed is cut down thirty, forty, and even seventy feet, but it passes through no material obstacle ; the banks are sometimes twenty feet above the surrounding country, and a hundred thick. The sluices which keep the necessary level are of rude construction, and thick planks, sliding in grooves formed by stone buttresses, form the only locks. Still, the objects intended are all fully gained, and the simplicity of the means certainly does not derogate from the merit and execution of the plan. There are some other canals in the empire, but none of them at all equalling this in importance or extent. Kienlung con- PUBLIC ROADS. 33 structed a waste-weir for carrying off the waters of the Yellow river of about a hundred miles in length, by cutting a canal from Ifung hien in Honan, to one of the principal affluents of lake Hungtsih ; but whether it is now in good repair, or has been stopped up, is not known. It also served as a drain for the marshy land in that part of the Plain. In the vicinity of Canton, there are many ditches and channels cut through the lowlands, which serve both for irrigation and navigation, but they are not worthy the name of canals ; similar co#veniences exist more or less in all parts of the provinces. The public roads, in a country so well provided with naviga- ble streams, are of minor consequence, but these media of travel have by no means been neglected. De Guignes, speaking of them, says, " I have travelled near 600 leagues by land in China, and have found many good roads, most of them wide and planted with trees ; they are not usually paved, and consequently in rainy weather are either channelled by the water or covered with mud, and in dry weather so dusty that travellers are obliged to wear spectacles to protect their eyes. In Kwangtung, trans portation is performed almost wholly by water, the only roads being across the lines of navigation. The pass across the Mei ling is paved or filled up with stones ; at Kih-ngan fu in Kiangsi, are paved roads in good condition, but beyond the Yangtsz' kiang, in Nganhwui, they were almost impracticable, but became better as we proceeded northward, and in many places had trees on both sides. Beyond the Hwang ho they were broader, and we saw crowds of travellers, carts, mules, and horses. In Shantung and Chihli, they were generally broad and shaded, and very dusty ; this is no doubt disagreeable, but we went smoothly over these places, while in the villages and towns we were miserably jolted on the pavements. I hope, for the sake of those who may come after me, that the Chinese will not pave their roads before they improve their carriages. The thoroughfares about Peking are paved with slabs of stone, and kept in good repair. Those near Hangchau, and the great road leading from Chehkiang into Kiangsi, are all in good condition. Generally speaking, however, as is the case with most things in China, the roads are not well re paired, and large holes are frequently allowed to remain unfilled in the path, to the great danger of those who travel by night."* * Voyages a Peking, vol. II., Dage 214. 3* 34 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. Mountain passes have been cut for facilitating the transit of goods and people over the high ranges in many parts of China. The great road leading from Peking south-west through Shensi and Sz'chuen, is carried across the Peh ling and the valley of the river Hwai by a mountain road, " which, for the difficulties it presents, and the art and labor with which they have been over come, does not appear to be inferior to the road over the Sim- plon."* At one place on this route, called Li-nai, a passage has been cut through the rdfck, and steps hewn on both sides of the mountain from its base to the summit. The passage across the peak being only wide enough for one sedan, the guards are perched in little houses placed on poles over the pass. This road was in ancient times the path to the metropolis, and these im mense excavations were made from time to time, by different monarchs. The pass over the Mei ling, at Nan-ngan, is a work of later date, and so are most of the other roads across this range, in Fuhkien and Kwangtung. The general aspect of the country is perhaps as much modi fied by labor of man in China as in England, but the appearance of a landscape in the two kingdoms is unlike. Whenever water is available, canals and streams are dug, or led upon the rice- fields, and this kind of grain allows few or no trees to grow in the plats ; such fields are divided by raised banks, which serve for pathways across the marshy inclosure, and assist in confining the water when let in upon the growing crop. The bounds of other fields are denoted by stones or other landmarks ; and the entire absence of walls, fences, or hedgerows, makes a cultivated plain appear like a vast garden, in which the plats seem to be mere beds. The greatest sameness exists in all the cities. A stone wall incloses all towns of any size, and the suburbs are not unfre quently larger than their enceinte ; most of the streets are paved, and the sewers run under the slabs, which reach across, and what filth is not in them is generally in the street, as they often become choked. The streets are not usually over eight feet wide, but the lowness of the houses makes them appear less like alleys than they would in western cities. Villages have a pleas ant appearance at a distance, usually embowered among trees, * Penny Cyclopaedia, Vol. XXVII., page 656. ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. 35 between which the whitewashed houses look prettily ; but on entering them, one is disappointed at their irregularity, dirtiness, and general decayed look — for a Chinese seldom repairs his house before it is dilapidated. The gardens and best houses are mostly walled in from sight, while the precincts of temples are the resort of idlers, beggars, and children, with a proportion of pigs and dogs. Elegance or ornament, orderly arrangement or grandeur of design, cleanliness, or comfort, are alraest unknown in Chinese houses, cities, or gardens. Commanding or agreeable situations are chosen for temples and pagodas, which are not only the abode of priests and senseless idols, but serve for inns, theatres, and other purposes. The terrace cultivation sometimes renders the acclivities of hills beautiful in the highest degree, but it does not often impart a distinguishing feature to the landscape. A lofty solitary pagoda, an extensive temple shaded by trees in the open ing of a vale or on a hill side, or boats moving in every direction through narrow creeks or on broad streams, are some of the peculiar lineaments of Chinese scenery. No imposing mansions are found on the skirts of a town, for the people huddle together in hamlets and villages for mutual aid and security ; no tapering spires pointing out the rural church, nor towers, pillars, domes, or steeples, in the cities, indicating buildings of public utility, rise above the low level of dun tiled roofs. No meadows or pastures, containing herds and flocks, are visible from the hill-tops in China ; nor are coaches, steamers, or railroad cars, ever observed hurry ing across its landscapes. The condition and characteristics of the various families of man inhabiting this great empire, render its study far more interesting than anything relating to its physical geography or public works. The Chinese are the leading family, but tho Miautsz', or the still independent aborigines in the southern pro vinces, the Manchus, the Mongols, and other Tartar tribes, the Tibetans, and some other races in Hainan, Kirin, and Formosa, must not be overlooked. The sons of Han are indeed a remark able race, whether regard be had to their antiquity, their num bers, their government, or their literature, and on these accounts deserve the study and respect of every intelligent student of man kind ; while their unwearied industry, their general peaceable- ness and good humor, and their attainments in domestic order and 36 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. mechanical arts, commend them to the notice of every one who sees in these points of character indications favorable to the per manence of Christian institutions, when once established. The physical traits of the Chinese race may be described as being between the light and agile Hindu, and the muscular, fleshy European ; their form is well built and symmetrical. Their color is a brunette or sickly white, rather approaching to a yel lowish tint than to a florid, but this yellow hue has been much exaggerated ; in the south they are swarthy but not black, never becoming as dark even as the Portuguese, whose fifth or sixth ancestors dwelt on the Tagus. It is almost unnecessary to add, that the shades of complexion differ very much according to the latitude, and degree of exposure to the weather, especially in the female sex. The hair of the head is lank, black, coarse, and glossy ; beard always black, thin, and deficient ; no whiskers ; and very little hair on the body. Eyes invariably black, and apparently oblique ; this is owing to the slight degree in which the inner angles of the eyelids open, the internal canthi being more acute than in western races, and not allowing the whole iris to be seen ; this peculiarity in the eye distinguishes the eastern races of Asia from all other families of man. The hair and eyes being always black, a European with blue eyes and light hair appears very strange to them ; and one reason given by the people of Canton, for having called foreigners fan kwei, or " for eign devils," is, that they had deep sunken blue eyes, and red hair like demons. The cheek-bones are high, and the outline of the face remark ably round. The nose is rather small, much depressed, and nearly even with the face at the root, and wide at the extremity ; there is, however, considerable difference in this respect, but no aquiline noses are seen. Lips thicker than among Europeans, but not at all approaching those of the negro. The hands are small, and the lower limbs better proportioned than among any other Asiatics. The height is about the same as that of Euro peans, and a thousand men taken as they come in the streets of Canton, will probably equal in stature and weight the same num ber in Rome or New Orleans ; their muscular power would prob ably be less. In size, the women are disproportionately small, when com pared with European females ; and in the eyes of those accus- CHINESE AND MIAUTSz'. 37 tomed to the European style of beauty, the Chinese women pos sess little, the broad upper face, low nose, and linear eyes, being quite the contrary of handsome. But still the Chinese face is not destitute of some beauty, and when animated with good humor and an expressive eye, and lighted by the glow of youth and health, the displeasing features lose much of their repulsive- ness. Nor do they fade so soon as has been represented, and look as ugly and withered when old as some travellers say, but are in respect to bearing children and keeping their vigor, more like Europeans than the Hindus or Persians. The mountainous regions of the Nan ling and Mei ling, between Kwangsi and Kweichau, give lodgment to many clans of the Miautsz' or " children of the soil," as the words may be rendered, and which they no doubt are. It is singular that any of these people should have maintained their independence so long, when so large a portion of them have partially submitted to Chinese rule ; those who will not are called sang Miautsz', i. e. wild or unsubdued, while the others are termed shuh or subdued. This race presents so many physical points of difference, as to lead one to infer that they are a more ancient race than the Chinese around them, and the aborigines of southern China. They are rather smaller in size and stature, have shorter necks, and their features are somewhat more angular. The degree of civilization they have attained is much below that of the Chinese. It is not known what language they speak, but the names given to parts of the body and the common articles about their boats by some boatmen who visited Canton in 1833, showed that it was essentially different from Chinese. An aboriginal race is said to exist in the centre of Hainan island, but little or nothing is known of them. The natives of Formosa are allied to the inha bitants of the Madjicosima group, and belong to the Japanese race, but their language is indigenous. The Chinese from Fuhkien have either subdued or driven them off from the western half of the island, across the mountains. The only person in modern times who has described them, is Count Benyowsky. The Mongol and Manchu races have been considered as the same, but even if they were originally from the same stock, they now present many important differences. The Mongols are essentially a nomadic race, while the Manchus are an agricul tural or a hunting people, according to the part of their country 38 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. they inhabit. The Manchus are of a lighter complexion and slightly heavier build than the Chinese, have the same confor mation of the eyelids, but rather more beard, and their counte nances present greater intellectual capacity. They seem to par- take of both the Mongol and Chinese character, possessing more determination and largeness of plan than the latter, with much of the rudeness and haughtiness of the former. Barrow says, some of those whom he saw at Peking classed among the Manchus, had fair and florid complexions, a few had blue eyes, straight or aquiline noses, brown hair and heavy beards ; the emperor Kienlung himself had some of these characteristics. They are evidently a mixed people, but have more affinities with the Chi nese than the Mongolian race, though great pains have been taken to keep them distinct from both since the conquest of the country. The climate of Manchuria is milder than that of Mon golia, and the inhabitants of Liautung are more stationary and civilized than those on the stepps ; literary pursuits are more esteemed, and they are not so much under the power of the priesthood. The Manchus, in short, may be regarded as the most improvable race in Central Asia, if not on the continent, and the skill with which they have governed the Chinese empire, and the improvement they have made in their own condition during the same time, give promise of still further advances, when they become familiar with the civilization of Christian lands. Under the term Mongols or Moguls, a great number of tribes occupying the valleys and stepps of Central Asia, are comprised. They extend from the borders of the Kirghis stepp and Kokand, eastward to the Sialkoi mountains ; and it is particularly to this race that the name Tartars or Tatars is applicable. This latter term has been used as vaguely as the word Indian in America, and the designation Cherokee or Carib Indians is quite analogous to that of Usbeck or Kalkas Tartars. No such word as Tartar is now known among the people, and the use in European books of Tartars and Tartary should be discontinued. Klaproth con fines the appellation of Tartars to the Mongols, Kalmucks, Kal kas, Eleuths, and Buriats, while the Kirghis, Usbecks, Cossacks, and Turks are of Kurdish and Turkoman origin : neither.Tartars nor Turks have many points of similarity with the Manchus. The Kalkas tribes constitute the majority of the Mongols at pre sent under Chinese swxiy. MANCHUS AND MONGOLS. 39 The Mongol tribes generally are a stout, squat, swarthy, ill-favored race of men, having high and broad shoulders, short, broad noses, pointed and prominent chins, long teeth distant from each other, — eyes black, elliptical, and unsteady, — thick, short necks, extremities bony and nervous, muscular thighs, but short legs, with a stature nearly or quite equal to the European. They are nomadic in their habits, and subsist on animal food, de rived chiefly from their flocks and herds. They have a written language, but their literature is limited and mostly religious ; the same language is spoken by all the tribes, with slight variations and only a small admixture of foreign words. Most of the ac counts Europeans possess of their origin, their wars, and their habits, were written by foreigners living or travelling among them ; but they themselves, as McCulloch remarks, know as little of these things as rats or marmots do of their descent. The fate of the vast swarms of this race which have descended from the table land of Central Asia, and overrun the plains of India, China, Syria, Egypt, and Eastern Europe in different ages, and the rise and fall of the gigantic empire they themselves erected under Genghis in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, are among the most remarkable episodes in the world's history. They have always maintained the same character in their native wilds, and their conquests have been exterminations rather than subjuga tions. The number of petty tribes and families of this race within the limits of the Chinese empire is not known. In Inner Mongolia, there are twenty-four avmaks or tribes, arranged under six chalkans ; in Outer Mongolia, the Kalkas are governed by four khans. The Ortous, Tsakhars, Eleuths, and Kortchin, are the largest tribes, next to the Kalkas. The Tourgouths, Ho- shoits, Tourbeths, Choros, and Khoits, are among the tribes dwell ing in Koko-nor. In iii, the Mongols are mixed up with and subordinate to tribes of Turkish origin ; the former are mostly Budhists, while the latter are bigoted Mohammedans. The last of the five races is the Tibetans, who partake of the physical characteristics of the Mongols and Hindus. They are described as short, squat, and broad-shouldered in body, with an gular faces, wide, high cheek bones, small black eyes, and little beard. They are mild in disposition, have a stronger religious feeling than the Chinese, and have never left their own highlands either for emigration or conquest. Their civilization is fully 40 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. equal to that of the Siamese and Burmese, and life and property are more secure than among their turbulent neighbors in Butan, Lahore, or Caubul. There are, no doubt, other variations in the language, habits, and features of the inhabitants of this vast region extending over thirty degrees of longitude and nine of latitude, but they are not important enough to be particularly noticed. It will be seen from this brief survey, that a full account of the geography, government, manners, literature, and civilization of so large a part of the world and its inhabitants, requires the combined labors of many observers, all of them well acquainted with the languages and institutions of the people whom they de scribe. No one will look, therefore, for more than a brief outline of these subjects in the present work — minute enough, however, to enable them to form a fair opinion of the people. The indus try of the Chinese has given them their commanding place among the nations of the earth, and their superiority over all their neighbors is owing chiefly to this virtue. Not only has the indigenous vegetation been superseded wherever culture would remunerate their toil, but high hills have been tilled and terraced almost to their tops ; cities have been built upon them, and ex tensive ranges of wall erected along their summits. They prac tise upon a vast scale all the industrial arts, whether rural or manufacturing, and maintain the largest population ever united under one system of rule. Ten centuries ago they were the most civilized nation on earth, and the incredulity manifested in Europe, five hundred years ago, at the recitals of Marco Polo, regarding their condition, is the counterpart of the sentiments now expressed by the Chinese when they hear of the power and grandeur of western nations. Their civilization has been developed under peculiar forms and influences, and must be compared to, rather than judged of, by European ; the dissimilarity is as wide, perhaps, as can possibly exist between two races of beings, having the same common nature and wants. A people, from whom some of the most dis tinguishing inventions of modern Europe came (such as the compass, porcelain, gunpowder, and printing), and were known and practised many centuries earlier, — who probably amount to more than three hundred millions, united in one system of man ners, letters, and polity, — whose cities and capitals rival in num- ATTAINMENTS IN CIVILIZATION. 41 bers the greatest metropoles of any age, — who have not only covered the earth but the waters with towns and streets : — such a nation must occupy a conspicuous place in the history of man kind, and the study of their character and condition commend itself to every well-wisher of his race. It has been too much the custom of writers to overlook the in fluence of the Bible upon modern civilization ; but when a com parison is to be drawn between European and Asiatic civilization, this element forces itself upon the attention as the main cause of the superiority of the former. It is not the civilization of luxury or of letters, of arts or of priestcraft ; it is not the spirit of war, the passion for money, nor the application of machinery, that render a nation permanently great and prosperous. " Christianity is the summary of all civilization," says Chenevix ; " it contains every argument which could be urged in its support, and every precept which explains its nature. Former systems of religion were in conformity with luxury, but this alone seems to have been conceived for the regions of civilization. It has flourished in Europe, while it has decayed in Asia, and the most civilized nations are the most purely Christian." Christianity is essen tially the religion of the people, and when it is covered over with forms and contracted into a priesthood, its vitality goes out ; this is one reason why it has declined in Asia. The attainments of the Chinese in the arts of life are perhaps as great as they can be without this spring of action, without any other motives to in dustry, obedience, and morality, than the commands or demands of the present life. A general survey of the world and its various races in succes sive ages leads one to infer, that God has some plan of national character ; and that one nation exhibits the development of one trait, while another race gives prominence to another, and subor dinates the first. Thus the Egyptian people were eminently a priestly race, a vast body of undertakers; the Greeks developed the imaginative powers, excelling all others in sculpture, poetry, and art ; the Romans were warlike ; the Babylonians and Persians magnificent, like the head of gold in the vision ; the Arabs pre dacious, volatile, and imaginative ; the Turks stolid, bigoted, and impassible ; the Hindus are contemplative, religious, and meta physical ; the Chinese industrious, peaceful, literary, atheistic, and conceited. The same religion, and constant intercommuni- 42 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. cation among European nations, assimilates them more than other races ever were before ; but every one knows the national pecu liarities of the Spaniards, Italians, French, English, &c, and how they are maintained, notwithstanding the motives to imitation and coalescence. The comparison of national character and civili zation, with the view of ascertaining such a plan, is a subject worthy the profound study of any scholar, and one which would offer new views of the human race. The Chinese would be found to have attained, it is believed, a higher position in general secu rity of life and property, and in the arts of domestic life and comfort among the mass, and a greater degree of general literary intelligence, than any other heathen or Mohammedan nation that ever existed, — or indeed than some now calling themselves Christian, as Abyssinia. They have, however, probably done all they can do, reached as high a point as they can without the Gospel ; and its introduction, with its attendant influences, will erelong change their political and social system. The progress of this revolution among so mighty a mass of human beings will form one of the most interesting parts of the history of the world during the nineteenth century, and solve the problem, whether it be possible to elevate a race without the intermediate steps of disorganization and reconstruction. CHAPTER II. Geographical Description of the Eastern Provinces. The Chinese empire is everywhere subdivided into sang, fu, cliau, Men and sz', or provinces, departments, districts, hundreds and tithings, of greater or less size, according to their position, population, and mode of government ; but in the regions beyond the borders of the Eighteen Provinces, although arranged on the same plan, these divisions are considerably modified by the cha racter of the inhabitants and their mode of living. In the wilds of Manchuria, which are considered as the patrimony of the reigning family, the scanty population is ruled by a more simple military organization than any other portion of the empire, the higher departments .being appointed by his majesty himself. The khans of the Mongols in Mongolia and III, the Mohammedan begs in Turkestan, and the lamas in Tibet, are overseen and assisted in their rule by Chinese residents and generals appointed to direct and uphold the government of those distant regions. The geography of foreign countries has not been studied by the Chinese themselves ; and such have been the restrictions imposed upon the emigration of the people, and so few have been the educated men who have travelled even into the' islands of the Indian Archipelago, or the contiguous kingdoms of Siam, Corea, or Burmah, that there have been few opportunities for the people to become acquainted with the countries lying on their borders, much less with those in remoter parts, whose names, even, they hardly know. A few native works exist on foreign geography, among which four may be here noticed. " 1. Researches in the East and West, 6 vols. 8vo. It was written about two centuries ago ; the first volume contains some rude charts intended to show the situation and form of foreign countries. 2. Notices of the Seas, 1 vol. Its author, Yang Pingnan, obtained his information from a townsman, who, being wrecked at sea, was picked up by a foreign ship, and travelled abroad from country to country 44 the middle kingdom. for fourteen years ; on his return to China he became blind, and was engaged as an interpreter in Macao. 3. Notices of Things heard and seen in Foreign Countries, 2 vols. 12mo., written about a century ago, contains among other things a chart of the whole Chinese coast. 4. The Memoranda of Foreign Tribes, 4 vols. 8vo., were published in the reign of Kienlung."* Besides these, which contain so little correct information that they are not worth reading, a still more methodical work is that of Li Tsinglai, a native of Canton, called Plates Illustrative of the Heavens, being an astronomical and geographical work, much of whose contents were obtained from Europeans residing in the country. But even if the Chinese had better treatises on these subjects, the information contained in them would be of little use until it was taught to the youth in their schools. The high officers in the government begin now to see the importance of a better acquaintance with general geography, and commissioner Lin has lately published a partial translation of Murray's Cyclopaedia of Geography, made by two Chinese who had obtained a knowledge of English in American schools. This translation has been pub lished in twenty volumes by Lin under his own name. But if the Chinese have few geographical" works upon foreign countries, those delineating the topography of their own are hardly equalled in number and minuteness in any language : every district and town in the empire of any importance, as well as every department and province, has a local geography of its own. It may with truth be said that the topographical and statistical works form the most valuable portion, after the ethi cal, of Chinese literature. It would not be difficult to collect a library of 10,000 volumes of such works alone ; the topography of the city of Suchau, and of the province of Chehkiang, are each in 40 vols., while the Kwangtung Tung Chi, an Historical and Statistical Account of the province of Kwangtung, is in 182 volumes. None of these works, however, would bear to be translated entire, such is the amount of legendary and unimpor tant matter contained in them ; but they contain many data not to be overlooked by any one who undertakes to write a geogra phy of China. The Climate of the Eighteen Provinces, although it has not yet * Chinese Chrestomathy, page 420. CLIMATE OF PEKING. 45 been represented in meteorological tables, has still been suffi ciently observed to ascertain its general salubrity. Pestilences do not frequently visit the land, nor, as in Southern India, are the people deluged with rain during one monsoon, and parched with drought during the other. The inhabitants everywhere enjoy as good health, and are as well developed, and attain as great an age, as in other countries. The cutaneous diseases which pre vail are owing to the dirty habits of the people, and not to the climate. The average temperature of the whole empire is lower than that of any other country on the same latitude, and the coast is subject to the same extremes as that of the Atlantic States in America. The climate of Peking, though subject to, extremes, is salubrious ; epidemics are rare, and the plague unknown there or anywhere else in China. The water is frozen from December to March ; in the spring, violent storms and whirlwinds occur ; the winters of the capital are like those of Stockholm or Boston, ranging from 10° to 25° F. ; but the summers are those of Naples or Washington, the temperature sometimes rising to 95° and 105°, but more usually from 75° to 90° F. Autumn is the most pleasant part of the year, the air is then mild, the sky serene, and the weather calm. It is probable that the position of Peking, in a wide and poorly sheltered plain at the foot of moun tains and high table land, increases both the heat in summer and cold in winter. This remark is still more applicable to the towns on the gulf of Pechele, and Gutzlaff describes in his journal the paralysing effects of the cold upon his shipmates at Kaichau, as depriving them of all energy. -. The climate of the Plain is generally good, but near the rivers and marshy grounds is prejudicial to robust health. Foreigners suffer from fevers and agues, which open the way for diseases more dangerous ; the English forces, in 1842, did not recover from the maladies which attacked them in their passage up to Nanking until their return to Hongkong. A resident in that city speaks of the bad influences of the temperature of Nanking and the region around it : " This vast Plain being only a marsh half drained, the moisture is excessive, giving rise to many strange diseases, all of them serious, and not unfrequently mortal. The climate affects the natives from other provinces, and Europeans ; I have not known one of the latter who was not sick for six months or a year after his arrival. Every one who comes here 46 the middle kingdom. must prepare himself for a tertian or quotidian. For myself, after suffering two months from a malignant fever, I had ten attacks of a malady the Chinese here call the sand, from the skin being covered with little blackish pimples resembling grains of dust. It is prompt and violent in its progress, and corrupts the blood so rapidly, that in a few minutes it stagnates and coagu lates in the veins. The best remedy the people have is to cica trize the least fleshy parts of the body with a copper cash. The first attack I experienced rendered all my limbs insensible in two minutes, and I expected to die before I could receive ex treme unction. After recovering a little, great lassitude suc ceeded."* Those parts of the Plain which are hilly do not suf fer from these complaints, nor are they prevalent where the [^drainage is good. The inhabitants of Shanghai, latitude 31° 24' N., suffer from the rapid changes in the autumn and spring months, and pulmo nary and rheumatic complaints are common. According to Dr. Lockhart's hospital report, the maximum of heat is 100° F., and the minimum 24°, but ice is not common, nor does snow remain on the ground very long. The average temperature of the sum mer is from 80° to 93° F. by day, and from 60° to 75° by night; the thermometer in the winter months ranges from 45° to 60° F. by day, and from 36° to 45° by night. The limits in a single day are about 20°, rarely over 25°, and the effects of the vicissi tudes depend more upon the winds and humidity than upon the heat. The east winds are unusually chilly from the proximity of the high mountains in Japan, and shallow water in the Yellow sea. The climate of Ningpo and Chusan is pleasanter than Shang hai, owing in some degree to the hills in their vicinity. The thermometer ranges from 24° to 107° during the twelvemonth, and changes of 20° in the course of two hours are not unusual, which the openness of the houses renders still more disagreeable. The cold is such as to require fires in winter, but the natives content themselves with additional clothing, and the large forms of mason- work used for cooking and for sleeping, so common in Chihli, are not often seen. The river is never frozen, but ice forms in pools. Snow frequently falls, but does not remain long. * Annales de la Propagation de la Foi, tome XVI., page 293. CLIMATE OF CANTON. 47 Ningpo and Fuhchau are healthy residences, being neither so hot as Canton for many months, nor so changeable as Shanghai. The climate of Amoy is delightful, but its insular position ren ders a residence there perhaps a little less agreeable than on the main ; the city is built only a few feet above high water, and high barren hills are in the rear. The thermometer ranges from 40° to 96°, throughout the year, without those rapid changes which are experienced at Ningpo ; but the heat continues longer, though assuaged by breezes from the sea. Much rain falls in the spring, and tyfoons occur in August ; but the air is clear and bracing from November to March, when woollen clothing is necessary. The climate of Canton and its vicinity is much better known than that of the other ports ; and the observation, " that, on the whole, the climate of Canton, but more especially of Macao, may be considered superior to that of most other places situated ¦between the tropics," is corroborated by the experience of almost every resident. The thermometer, during the months of July and August, stands on an average at 80° to 88°, and in January and February at 50° to 60° ; the highest recorded observation in 1831 was 94° in July, and the lowest 29° in January. Ice some times forms at Canton in shallow vessels a line or two in thick ness, but no use is made of it by the natives, nor is it ever brought by them from the north. A fall of snow, nearly two inches deep, occurred at Canton in February, 1835, which remained on the ground three hours ; but it was such an unusual event that the citizens hardly knew what was its proper name, some calling it falling cotton, and every one endeavoring to pre serve it as a febrifuge. Fogs are common during February and March, and the heat sometimes renders them very disagreeable, it being necessary to keep up a little fire to dry the house, which is not wanted for warmth. During May and June, most of the rain falls, but there is nothing like a rainy season as at Calcutta and Manilla. July, August, and September, are the regular monsoon months, the wind coming from the south-west, with fre quent showers to allay the heat. In the close streets and creeks of Canton, reeking with offal of every description, the heat is aggravated by radiation from the walls, and by vile smells urged forth by the sun ; but in the country, and towards the sea-coast, the winds cool it. In the 48 the middle kingdom. succeeding months, the northerly winds commence with some interruptions at first, but from October to January the tempera- ture is agreeable, the sky clear, and the air invigorating. Few large cities are more healthy than Canton, no epidemics nor ma laria prevail there, notwithstanding much of the town is built upon piles. Foreigners residing there generally enjoy good health, if they abstain from ardent spirits, and do not expose them selves to the sun, notwithstanding the confined limits into which they are crowded. Woollen clothes are worn, and fires are com- fortable during the months of January and February, but the Chinese do not warm their houses. The monsoons do not blow regularly northeast of Canton near the coast, and can hardly be said to extend above 25° N., except with many interruptions. The climate of Macao and Hongkong has not so great a range as Canton, from their proximity to the sea ; still both of them are healthy residences. Few cities in Asia exceed Macao in respect to climate, though it has been remarked that few of the natives attain a great age. The maximum at Macao is 90°, and the average summer heat 84° ; the minimum is 50°, and average winter weather 68°, with almost uninterrupted sunshine. Fogs are not of very long continuation at Macao, but on the river they prevail, and at Whampoa are more frequent than at Canton. North-easterly gales ¦ are common in the spring and autumn, often continuing to blow three days. The vegetation in this part of the country does not change its general aspect during the win ter, the trees cease to grow, and the grass becomes brownish ; but the stimulus of the warm moisture in March and April soon makes a sensible difference in the appearance of the landscape, and bright green leaves soon take the place of the old. The insalubrity of Hongkong has been chiefly owing to other causes than the climate, and when it becomes a well built, well drained town, there is every probability of its being a healthy one. The rains are more abundant there than in Macao, owing to the attraction of the high peaks on the island and in the neighbor hood. During the rainy and foggy weather of March and April, the walls of houses become damp, and if newly plastered, drip with moisture. Silken and woollen dresses mildew, and great care is required to prevent them, and books, cutlery, and paper from spoiling. Tinned boxes are considered as the best preservatives. RAINS AND WINDS. 49 The provinces of Kwangtung, Kwangsi, and Yunnan, are con sidered the most unhealthy of the eighteen, and on this account are employed as places of banishment for criminals from the north-eastern districts. The central portions of the country are on some accounts the most healthy, not so liable to sudden changes as the coast, nor so cold as the western and northern districts. Sz'chuen and Kweichau are colder than Fuhkien and Chehkiang from the mountains in and upon their borders. The fall of rain in China is estimated by Humboldt at 70 in. annually, but he does not state where he derived this average ; whatever it may be for the whole country, this amount is the mean of sixteen years' observation at Canton. During four years, there were only fifteen rainy days from October to Feb ruary in each year. Thunder storms are not remarkably com mon or severe, but not a year passes without some deaths occur ring from lightning. The increased temperature on the southern coast during the months of June and July operates, with other causes, to produce violent storms along the seaboard, called tyfoons, from the Chi nese ta-fung, or " great wind." These destructive tornadoes occur from Hainan to Chusan, between July and October, gradually progressing northward as the season advances, and diminishing in fury in the higher latitudes. They annually occasion great losses to the native and foreign shipping in the Chinese waters, and more than half the ships lost on that coast have suffered in them. One of the most melancholy was the loss of the British transport Golconda in 1840, with about 650 souls on board, officers and sipahis ; also the merchantmen Hamoody, Marg. Graham and Hormusjee Bomanjee, in one gale, and Earl of Moira in another ; not a trace of them was ever seen. The bark Kent, about 350 tons, dragged her anchors in one of these storms, and was carried nearly a mile from low water mark, and left high and dry : she was afterwards floated by digging a trench. Tyfoons are now ascertained to be whirlwinds, whose fury is exhausted within a narrow track, which, in such cases as have been registered, lies in no uniform direction, other than from south to north at a greater or less angle. The principal phe nomena indicating the approach of these hurricanes are the direction of the wind, which commences to blow in soft zephyrs 4 50 the middle kingdom. from the north, without assuaging the heat or disturbing the calmness of the atmosphere, and the sinking of the barometer. The glass usually begins to fall several hours before it com mences, and the rarefaction of the air is further shown Ly the heavy swell rolling in upon the beach, though the sea is smooth. The wind increases as it veers to the north-east, and from that point to south-east blows with the greatest force in fitful gusts. There is little or no rain until towards the close of the gale, when the glass begins to rise ; the barometer not unfrequently falls below 28 in., and Krusenstern, the Russian navigator, was not a little surprised to see the mercury sink out of sight. The Chinese dread these gales, and in Hainan have erected temples to the Tyfoon Mother, a goddess whom they supplicate for protection against them. They say, " that a few days before a tyfoon comes on, a slight noise is heard at intervals, whirling round and then stopping, sometimes impetuous and sometimes slow; this is a ' tyfoon brewing.' Then fiery clouds . collect in thick masses, the thunder sounds deep and heavy ; rainbows appear, now forming an unbroken curve and again separating, and the ends of the bow dip into the sea. The sea sends back a bellowing sound, and boils with angry surges ; the loose rocks dash against each other, and detached seaweed covers the water ; there is a thick murky atmosphere, the water-fowl fly about affrighted, the trees and leaves bend to the south — the tyfoon has commenced. When to it is superadded a violent rain and a frightful surf, the force of the tempest is let loose, and away fly the houses up to the hills, and the ships and boats are removed to the dry land ; horses and cattle are turned heels over head, trees are torn up by the roots, and the sea boils up twenty or thirty feet, inundating the fields and destroying vege tation : this is called an iron whirlwind."* The Chinese are the only people who have, Jby means of terms added to the name of a place, endeavored to designate its relative rank. Three of the words used for this purpose, viz. fu, chau, and Men, have been translated, and the towns classed by Du Halde and others, as of the first, second, or third rank ; but this gradation is not quite correct, and the terms do not apply to the city or town alone, but to the portions of country of which * Chinese Repository, Vol. VIII., page 230; Vol. IV., page 197. TOPOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS. 51 they are the capital. An extract from the Repository will ex. plain the nature of these and other terras, and the divisions intended by them. " The Eighteen Provinces are divided into fu, ting, chau, and hien. A fu is a large portion or department of a province, under the general con trol of one civil officer immediately subordinate to the heads of the pro vincial government. A ling is a division of a province smaller than a fu, and either like it governed by an officer immediately subject to the heads of the provincial government, or else forming a subordinate part of a fu. In the former case it is called chih-li, i. e. under the ' direct rule' of the provincial government ; in the latter case it is simply called ting. A chau is a division similar to a ting, and like it either independ ent of any other division, or forming part of a/w. The difference be tween the two consists in the government of a ting resembling that of a fu more nearly than that of a chau does : that of the chau is less expen sive. The ting and chau of the class to which the term chih-li is attached, may be denominated, in common with the fu, departments or prefectures ; and the term chih-li may be rendered by the word independent. The subordinate ling and chau may both be called districts. A Men, which is also a district, is a small division or subordinate part of a de partment, whether of a fu, or of an independent chau or ting. " Each fu, ting, chau, and hien, possesses at least one walled town, the seat of its government, which bears the same name as the department or district to which it pertains. Thus.Hiangshan is the chief town of the district Hiangshan hien ; and Shauking, that of the department Shau- king fu. By European writers, the chief towns of the fu or depart ments have been called cities of the first order ; those of the chau, cities of the second order ; and those of the hien, cities of the third order. The division called ting, being rarely met with, has been left out of the arrangement — an arrangement not recognised in China. It must be observed that the chief town of a fu is always also the chief town of a hien district ; and sometimes, when of considerable size and importance, it and the country around are divided into two hien districts, both of which have the seat of their government within the same walls : but this is not the case with the ting and chau departments. A district is not always subdivided ; instances may occur of a whole district possess ing but one important town. But as there are often large, and even walled towns not included in the number of chief or of district towns, consequently not the seat of a regular chau or hien magistracy, a subdi vision of a district is therefore frequently rendered necessary ; and for the better government of such towns and the towns surrounding them, magistrates are appointed to them, secondary to the magistrates of the departments or the districts in which they are comprised. Thus Fuhshan 52 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. is a very large commercial town in the district of Nanhai, of the de partment of Kwangchau, situated about twelve miles distant from Can ton. The chief officer of the department has therefore an assistant resid ing there, and the town is partly under his government and partly under that of the Nanhai magistrate, within whose district it is included, but who resides at Canton. Macao affords another instance : being a place of some importance, both from its size and as the residence of foreign ers, an assistant to the Hiangshan hien magistrate is placed over it, and it is also under the control of an assistant to the chief magistrate of the fu. Of these assistant magistrates, there are two ranks secondary to the chief magistrate of a fu, two secondary to the magistrate of a chau, and two also secondary to the magistrate of a hien. The places under the rule of these assistant magistrates are called by various names, most frequently chin and so, and sometimes also chai and wei. These names do not appear to have reference to any particular form of municipal go vernment existing in them ; but the chai and the wei are often military posts ; and sometimes a place is, with respect to its civil government, the chief city of a/u, while with respect to its military position it is called wei. There are other towns of still smaller importance ; these are under the government of inferior magistrates who are called siun hien: a division of country under such a magistrate is called a sz'. The town of Whampoa and country around it form one such division, called Kiautang sz', belonging to the district of Pwanyu, in the depart ment of Kwangchau. " In the mountainous districts of Kwangsi, Yunnan, Kweichau, and Sz'chuen, and in some other places, there are districts called tu sz'. Among these, the same distinctions of fu, chau, and hien exist, together with the minor division sz'. The magistrates of these departments and districts are hereditary in their succession, being the only hereditary local officers acknowledged by the supreme government. " There is a larger division than any of the above, but as it does not prevail universally, it was not mentioned in the first instance. It is called lau, a course or circuit, and comprises two or more departments of a province, whether fu, or independent ting or chau. These circuits are subject to the government of officers called taulai or intendants of circuit, who often combine with political and judicial powers a military authority, and various duties relating to the territory or to the revenue."* The eighteen provinces received their present boundaries and divisions in the reign of Kienlung; and the little advance which has been made abroad in the geography of China is shown by the fact, that although these divisions were established eighty years * Chinese Repository, Vol. IV., page 54. PROVINCE OF CHILI. 53 ago, the old demarkations, existing at the time of the survey under Kanghi, in 1710, are still found in many modern European geographies and maps. The opposite table shows their present divisions and government. The three columns under the head of Departments contain the/w, chihli ting, and chihli chau, all of which are properly prefectures ; the three columns under the head of Districts contain the ting, chau, and hien. The province of Chihli is the most important of the whole. On foreign maps it is usually written Pechele (i. e. North Chihli), a name formerly given it in order to distinguish it from Kiangnan, in which the seat of government had beforetime been located ; but among the people it is at present only called Chihli. This name is descriptive, rather than technical, and literally means Direct rule, denoting that from this province the supreme power which governs the empire emanates ; any province, therefore, in which the emperor and court should be fixed, would be termed Chihli, and its chief city King, " capital," or King-sz', " court of the capital." The surface of this province is level, there being a few ridges of hills in the west and north, while the eastern parts along the gulf of Pechele, and those south of the capital, are among the flattest portions of the Great Plain. It is bounded on the north-east by Liautung, where for a short distance the Great Wall is the frontier line ; on the east by the gulf of Pechele ; on the south-east and south by Shantung ; on the south-west by Honan ; on the west by Shansi ; and north by Inner Mongolia, where the Hwang ho forms the boundary. The extensive region lying north of Chihli, occupied by the Tsak- har Mongols, is now included within the jurisdiction of the pro vince, and placed under the administration of officers residing at one of the garrisoned gates of the Great Wall ; the area of this part beyond the Great Wall is about half of the whole province, which is now nearly double what it was in Kanghi's time. The chief department in the province, that of Shuntien fu, being both large and important, as containing the imperial metropolis, is divided into four circuits, each under the rule of a sub-prefect, who is subordinate to the prefect living at Peking. Peking* (i. e. Northern Capital) is situated in this province in * This word should not be written Pekin ; it is pronounced Peh-ching by the citizens, and by most of the people north of the Great river, with whom the initial k is frequently softened into ch, as Chiangnan for Kiang- PROVINCES. AREA IN ENGLISHSQ. MLS. DEPARTMENTS. DISTRICTS. CAPITAL. GOVERNMENT. Pu. Ting. Chau. Ting. Chau. Hien. Northern Provinces. Chihli Shantung, .... Shansi, . . . Honan, .... Eastern Provinces. Kiangsu, . i Nganhwui, . . ( Kiangsi, Chehkiang, Fuhkien, Central Provinces. Hupeh, . > Hunan, . . { Southern Provinces. Kwangtung,Kxvangsi,Yunnan, .... Kvveichau, .... Western Provinces. Shensi, . . j Kansuh, . . . J Sz'chuen, 58,94965,10455,26865,104 92,961 72,176 39,15053,480 144,770 79,45078,250 107,969 64,554 154,008 106,800 1110 9988 13 11 10 10 99 Jl 14 12 79 12 1 3 2 33li 6 2 10 4 35 1 2 1 4 4 1 4 1 568 3322 1 33 3 5 573 17 9 6 6 3 4 1 I73 7 10 27 13 57 11 124 908597625075 76626064794739347351 111 Pauting fu. Tsinan fu. 1 Tniyuen fu. V Kail'ung fu. ) Kinngning fu. 1 Nganking fu. \ Nanchang fu. ) Hangchau fu. t Fuhchau fu. ( Wuchang fix. ( Changsha fu. \ Kwnngchau fu, 1 oi- ('an ton. V Kweilin fu. ) Yunnan fu. \ Kxvciyang fu. \ Singan fu. ) Lanchau fu. J Ohinglu fu. Ruled by a gov .-general or tsungtuh. Each separately ruled by a lieuten ant-governor or ftiyucn. Each under a lieutenant-governor, subordinate to one governor-gene- ral, called Liang Kiang tsungtuh. Each under a lieutenant-governor, subordinate to a governor-general, called Min Click tsungtuh. Each under a lieut.-govcrnor, subordi- nnte to a governor-general, called JAung Hu tsungtuh. Two lieutenant-governors, subordi nate to a governor general, called I.iaug Kwang tsungtuh. Two lieutenant-governors, subordi nate to a governor-general, called Yun Kwci tsungtuh. Under n governor-general, called Shen Kan tsungtuh, and one lieu tenant-governor over Shensi. Ruled by a. governor-general. POSITION OF PEKING. 55 a sandy plain, about twelve miles south-west of the Pei ho, and about a hundred miles west-north-west of its mouth, in latitude 39° 54' 13" N., and longitude 116° 27' E., or nearly on the parallel of Samarkand, Erzroom, Naples, and Philadelphia. A small branch of this river, called Tung-hwui ho, enters the city on the north-west, and supplies it with water, before empty ing into the Pei ho. The entire circuit of the walls and suburbs is reckoned by Father Hyacinthe, who resided there many years, at twenty-five miles, and its area at twenty-seven square miles. This estimate probably includes the suburbs, as Barrow (page 581) puts it down at fourteen square miles. Like Canton and other cities, which have overpassed the limits of their walls, it is not easy to separate the city from the suburbs ; and this consti tutes the chief difficulty in estimating the population. Du Halde reckons it to be about 3,000,000, and Klaproth 1,300,000 ; others place it between these extremes ; but comparing it with London, whose circuit is about eighteen miles, and population 1,800,000, there seems to be no insuperable objection at stating that of Pe king at two millions. The broad streets, the river, parks and squares of the former, are probably equal to the waste ground and gardens of the latter. Peking is regarded by the Chinese as one of their most ancient cities, but it was not made the capital of the country until its conquest by the Mongols, when Kublai, about 1282, established his court first at this spot, then called Shuntien fu (i. e. city Obedient to Heaven), and afterwards removed it to Hangchau. The native emperors who succeeded the Mongols held their court at Kiangning fu or Nanking, until Yungloh, the third mgnarch of the Ming dynasty, who as prince of Yen had reigned at the for mer capital, transferred the seat of government there in 1411, where it has ever since remained. Under the Mongols, the city was called Klian-palik (i. e. city of the Khan), changed into Cambalu in the accounts of those times ; on the Chinese maps it is usually called King-sz' (i. e. Capital of the Court). It was at first surrounded by a single wall pierced by nine gates, whence it is sometimes called the City of Nine Gates. A part of the southern suburbs has since been inclosed, and the city now consists of two portions, the northern or Tartar city, called Nui ching, containing about twelve square miles, where are the palace, government buildings, and troops ; and the south- 56 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. ern, called Wai ching, or Outer city, where the Chinese live. The wall of the city is thirty feet high, twenty-five thick at the base, and the inner face slopes in so much that it is only twelve feet wide across the terre-plein upon which the parapet is erected. Near the gates, of which there are sixteen in all, the walls are faced with stone, but in other places with large bricks, laid in a mortar of lime and clay, which in process of time becomes almost as durable as stone. The intermediate space between the facings is filled up with the earth taken from the ditch which surrounds the city. Square towers, projecting fifty feet from the outer side of the walls, occur at intervals of about sixty yards, and one of these buttress-like defences stands on each side of every gate, connected in front by a semi-circular fort ; the entrance into the area is at the side and not directly in front. The arches of the gateways are strong, and each gate is sur mounted by a wooden building several stories high, with painted port- holes for cannon. At the sides of the gates, and also between them, are espla nades for mounting to the top ; the ditch around the city is fed from the Tunghwui river, which also supplies all the other ditches leading across or through the city. The approach to Peking from Tung chau is by a well paved road, but little or nothing of the buildings inside the walls is seen ; and were it not for the high lookout towers over the gates, it would more resemble an encampment inclosed by a massive wall than a large metropolis. No spires or towers of churches, no pillars or monuments, no domes or minarets, nor even many dwellings of superior eleva tion, break the dull uniformity of this or any Chinese city. In Peking, the different colored tiles, yellow, green, and dun red, upon the roofs, impart a variety of colors to the scene, but the only objects to relieve the monotony are usually large clumps of trees, and the flag-staffs in pairs before every official residence. A towering pagoda is usually the only building which claims the pre-eminence. It is no doubt, in a social point of view, far better that all the people should have decently comfortable tene ments, than that the mud hovels of the wretched poor should only look the more forlorn beside the magnificent palace of the nabob ; still, the mere scenery, as at Calcutta or Tabriz, is more picturesque than in Chinese cities. The plan of the city here given is abridged from a large Chi- MAP AND PLACES IN PEKING. 57 A. B. C. D.E.F.G.H.I. J. K.K. L. M. N.O.P.a. R. S.T.U. V. w.X.YZ. REFERENCES- The Meridian Gate. Gate of Extensive Peace. Hall of Perfect Peace. Hall of Secure Peace. Pulace of Heaven — the Emperor's. Palace of Earth's Repose — the Empress'. Gate to Earth's Repose, leads to a Garden. Ching-hwang iniau. Temple of Great Happiness. Northern gate of Forbidden City. Nui Koh, or Privy Council chamber, lies within the wall. Gate of Heavenly Rest. Hall of Intense Mental Exercises. Library, or Hall of Literary Abyss. Imperial Ancestral Hall. Hall of National Portraits. Printing Office. Court of Controllers of Imperial Clan. Marble Isle ; a marble bridge leads to it Five Dragon Pavilion. Great Ancestral Temple. Altnr to the Gods of Land and Grain. Artificial Mountain. The Russian school lies just north of the Eastern gate near N. A summer-house. Military Examination Hall. Plantain Garden, or Conservatory. A Pavilion. 4+ Medical College. Astronomical Bonrd. Five of the Six Boards. The Hanlin Yuen lies just above them. House of the Russian Mission. Colonial Office. Temple for Imperial worship. Imperial Observatory, partly on the wall. Hall of Literary Examinatio'h. Russian Church of the Assumption. Temple of Eternal Peace of the lamas. Kwoh Tsz' Kien, a Manchu College. Temple of the God of the North Star. High Watch-tower and Police Office. Board of Punishments. Censorate. Mohammedan Mosque. Portuguese Church. Elephant's Inclosure. Principal Ching-hwang miau. Temple of Deceased Emperors of all ages. Obelisk covering a scab of Budha. Altar to Heaven. — Altar to Earth is on the north of the City. Altar to Agriculture. Black Dragon Pool, and Temple of God of Rain. Altar to the Moon. Altar to the Sun. 58 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. nese map. The northern portion was taken possession of by the Manchus in 1644, for barracks and residences, and the govern ment purchased the buildings of the Chinese and gave them to their officers, but necessity soon obliged these men, less frugal and thrifty than the natives, to sell them, and content themselves with humbler abodes ; consequently, the greater part of the northern part is now tenanted by Chinese. This division consists of three inclosures, one within the other, each surrounded by its own wall. The innermost contains the imperial palace and its surrounding buildings ; the second is occupied by the several offices appertaining to the government, and by many private residences ; the outer one, for the most part, consists of dwelling- houses, with shops in the large avenues. The inner area is called Kin Ching, or Prohibited City, and its circumference is about two miles ; the wall is nearly as solid as that around the city, faced with glazed bricks, and covered with yellow tiles, which at a distance, and in the sunshine, look brilliantly. A gate on each side of this area gives access to its buildings, and the space and rooms appertaining to them furnish lodgment to the guard which defends the approach to the Dragon's Throne ; a tower at each corner, and one over each gateway, also afford accommodation to other troops. The interior of this inclosure is divided into three parts by two walls running from south to north, and the whole is occupied by a suite of court-yards and apartments, which, in their arrangement and architecture, far exceed any other specimens of the kind in China. According to the notions of a Chinese, all here is gold and silver ; " he will tell you of gold and silver pillars, gold and silver roofs, and gold and silver vases, in which swim gold and silver fishes." The southern gate, called the Meridian gate, leads into the middle division, in which are the imperial buildings ; it is espe cially appropriated to the emperor, and whenever he passes through it, a bell and gong, placed in the tower above, are struck ; when his troops return in triumph, the prisoners they bring are here presented to him ; and here the presents he' confers on vas sals and ambassadors are pompously bestowed. Passing through this gate into a large court, over a small creek spanned by five marble bridges, which are ornamented with sculptures, the visitor is led into a second court paved with marble, and terminated on PROHIBITED CITY. 59 the sides by gates, porticoes, and pillared corridors. The next building of importance is at the head of this court, called the gate of Extensive Peace, and is a superb marble structure, one hundred and ten feet high. It is a sort of balcony where the emperor, on newyear's day, his birthday, and other occa sions, receives the homage of his courtiers assembled in the court below ; five flights of stairs, decorated with balustrades and sculptures, lead up to it, and five gates open through it into the next court-yard. Beyond it are two halls, one called that of Perfect Peace, where his majesty examines the implements used in the annual plough ing ; the other that of Secure Peace, where he banquets his foreign guests and other distinguished persons on newyear's day. After ascending a stairway and passing another gate, the visitor reaches the Kien Tsing kung or Tranquil Palace of Hea ven, into which no one can enter without special license. In it is the council-chamber, and here candidates for office are pre sented to their sovereign. The building is described as the loftiest, richest, and most magnificent of all the palaces. In the court before it is a small tower of gilt copper, adorned with a great number of figures, and on each side are large incense vases, the uses of which are no doubt religious. It was in this palace that Kanghi celebrated a singular and unique festival, in 1722, for all the men in the empire over sixty years, that being the sixtieth year of his reign. His grandson Kienlung, in 1785, in the fiftieth year of his reign, repeated the same ceremony, on which occasion the number of guests was about three thousand.* This building is considered by the Chinese as the most important of all the imperial edifices. Beyond it stands the Palace of Earth's Repose, where the empress, or " heaven's consort," rules her miniature court in the imperial hareem ; and between which and the northern wall of the Forbidden City is the imperial Flower Garden, designed for the use of its inmates. The gar dens are adorned with elegant pavilions, temples, and groves, and interspersed with canals, fountains, pools, and flower-beds. Two groves rising from the bosoms of small lakes, and another crown ing the summit of an artificial mountain, add to the beauty of the scene, and afford the inmates of the palace an agreeable variety. * Chinese Repository, vol. IX., page 259. (30 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. In the eastern division of the Prohibited City are the offices of the Cabinet, where its members hold their sessions, and the trea sury of the palace. North of it lies the Hall of Intense Thought, where sacrifices are presented to Confucius and other bages. Not far from this hall stands the Hall of the Literary Abyss, or tbe Library, the catalogue of whose contents is published from time to time, forming an admirable synopsis of Chinese literature. At the northern end of the eastern division are numerous palaces and buildings occupied by princes of the blood, and those con nected with them ; and in this quarter is placed the Fung Sien tien, a small temple where the emperor comes to " bless his ancestors." Here the emperor and his family perform their devotions before the tablets of their departed progenitors ; when ever he leaves or returns to his palace, the first day of a season, and on other occasions, the monarch goes through his devotions in this hall. The western division contains a great variety of edifices de voted to public and private purposes, among which may be men tioned the hall of distinguished sovereigns, statesmen, and literati, the printing-office, the Court of Controllers for the regulation of the receipts and disbursements of the court, and the Ching-hwang miau, or Guardian Temple of the city. The number of people residing within the Prohibited City cannot be stated, but it is not probably very great ; most of them are Manchus. The second inclosure, which surrounds the imperial palaces, is called Hwang Ching, or Imperial City, and is an oblong square about six miles in circuit corresponding in form to the northern city, and inclosed by a wall about twenty feet high. There is a gate in each face of the wall, and none but authorized persons are permitted to enter them. From the southern gate, called the gate of Heavenly Rest, 'a broad avenue leads up to the Kin Ching ; and before it, outside of the wall, is an extensive space walled in, and having one entrance on the south, called the gate of Great Purity, which no one is allowed to enter except on foot, unless by special permission. On the right of the avenue within the wall, is a gateway leading to the Tai Miau, or Great Temple of the imperial ancestors, a large collection of buildings inclosed by a wall 3000 feet in circuit. Here offerings are presented be fore the tablets of deceased emperors and empresses, and worship performed by the members of the imperial family and clan to IMPERIAL CITY. 61 their departed forefathers. Across the avenue from this temple is a gateway leading to the Shie-Tsih tan, or altar of the gods of Land and Grain, where sacrifices are offered in spring and au tumn by the emperor alone to these divinities, who are supposed to have originally been men. This altar consists of two stories, each five feet high, the upper one being fifty-eight feet square ; no other altar of the kind is found in the empire, and it would be tantamount to high treason to erect one and worship upon it. The north, east, south, and west altar are respectively black, green, red, and white, and the top yellow ; the ceremonies con nected with the worship held here are among the most ancient in China. On the eastern side of the Imperial City, north of the Great Temple, and not far from the eastern gate of the Prohibited City, is a depository of military stores, and workshops for their manu facture. The establishment of the Russian college lies north of the gate ; and in the north-eastern part of this side is the loca tion of the Lamas, with numerous temples, monasteries, and other religious edifices. Much of this quarter of the Imperial City is occupied by dwelling-houses and by temples dedicated to various inferior gods in Chinese mythology. On the northern side, surrounded by a wall more than half a mile in circuit, is the King Shan, or Artificial Mountain, nearly 150 feet high, and having five summits, crowned with as many pavilions. Trees of various kinds border its base, and line the paths leading to the tops, while animals and birds in great num bers occupy and enliven the whole inclosure. Its height allows the spectator to overlook the whole city, while too it is itself a conspicuous object from every direction. The earth and stone to erect this mountain were taken from the ditches and pools dug in and around the city, and near its base are many tanks of pic turesque shape and appearance ; so that altogether it forms a great ornament to the city. The western part of this inclosure is chiefly occupied by the Si Yuen, or Western Park, in and around which are found some of the most beautiful objects and spots in the metropolis. An artificial lake, more than a mile long, and averaging a furlong in breadth, occupies the centre ; it is supplied by the Tunghwui river, and its waters are adorned with the splendid lotus. A marble bridge of nine arches crosses it, and its banks are shaded by groves of trees, under which are 62 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. well paved walks. On its south-eastern side is a large summer- house, consisting of several edifices partly in or over the water, and inclosing a number of gardens and walks, in and around which are many artificial hills of rock- work beautifully alternat ing or supporting groves of trees and parterres of flowers. On the western side is the hall for the examination of mili- tary candidates, and where his majesty in person sees them exhibit their prowess in equestrian archery. At the north end of the lake, is a bridge leading to an islet in its centre, which presents the aspect of a hill of gentle ascent covered with groves, temples, and summer-houses, and surmounted with a tower, from which an extensive view can be taken. Near the north-east of the Si Yuen is a temple dedicated to Yuenfi, the reputed discoverer of the silk-worm, where the empress annually offers sacrifices to her, and near which a plantation of mulberry trees and a cocoonery are maintained for the preparation of silk. Near the temple of Great Happiness, not far distant from the preceding, on the borders of the lake, is a gilded copper statue of Budha, sixty feet high, with a hundred arms ; and Timkow- ski, who furnishes this statement, says the temple itself is one of the greatest ornaments of the Park. The object kept in view in the arrangement of these gardens and grounds, has been to make them an epitome of nature, and then furnish every part with commodious buildings. But however elegant the palaces and grounds may have appeared when new, it is to be feared that his majesty has no higher ideas of cleanliness and order than his subjects, and that the various public and private edifices and gardens in these two inclosures are despoiled of half their beauty by dirt and neglect. The number of the palaces in them both is estimated to be over two hundred, " each of which," says Attinet, in vague terms, " is sufficiently large to accommodate the greatest of European noblemen, with all his retinue." Along the avenue leading southerly from the imperial city through the Tartar city to the division wall, are found the prin cipal government offices. Five of the Six Boards have their bureaus on the east side, and the Board of Punishments with its subordinate departments, has its courts on the west side ; and just south of it is the Censorate. The office attached to the Board of Rites, for the preparation of the Calendar, commonly called the Astronomical Board, stands directly east of it ; and TARTAR CITY. 63 the Medical College, or body of physicians employed in the ser vice of government, has its hall not far off. The Hanlin yuen, or National Academy, and the Colonial Office, are also on the eastern side of the avenue near the south-eastern corner of the Imperial City. Near the Colonial Office is the temple where the nearest ancestors of the reigning family are worshipped by his majesty and the princes of his family on the first day of every month, when they come in procession to this temple in their state dresses, and his majesty, as high priest of the family, performs the highest religious ceremony before his deified ancestors, viz. three kneelings and nine knockings. After he has completed his devotions, the attendant grandees go through the same ceremo nies. The temple itself is pleasantly situated in the midst of a grove of fir and other trees, and the large inclosure around it is prettily laid out with trees and shrubbery. There are many other public buildings in this part of the Tartar City, between the division wall and the Imperial City, besides numerous private residences of great extent. In the south-eastern part of the Tartar City, built partly upon the wall, is the Observatory, which was placed under the super intendence of the Romish missionaries by Kanghi, but is now confided to the care of Chinese astronomers ; it is an elevated building, and is seen on the left as the visitor enters the eastern gate of the city. Nearly opposite to it stands the hall for literary examinations, where the candidates of the province assemble to write their essays. In the north-eastern part of the city, about half a mile west of the Russian church of the Assumption, is the Temple of Eternal Peace, belonging to the lamas, and described as the largest and most splendid temple in Peking. The lamas have about two hundred Chinese and Manchu neo phytes and pupils under their care, who learn the Tibetan lan guage, probably with a view to political service in that country. A similar college for learning Chinese and Manchu stands west of this temple, where students of both races are respectively taugit each other's languages, to prepare them for the service of government. The superintendence of the Tartar city is under the control of the general of the Nine Gates, whose headquarters lie about half-way between the Imperial City and the northern wall, and who is made especially responsible for the peace and good order 64 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. of the Tartar city ; the post is conferred only on Manchus, and is regarded as a high office, somewhat like that of Constable of the Tower in England. Near his establishment, standing in the avenue leading to the north gate, is a high tower containing an immense bell and drum, which are struck to announce the night watches ; this edifice is one of the most conspicuous objects seen in approaching the capital, being higher than the towers over the gateways. The dimensions of this bell are 12-f- cubits high, and nearly a cubit thick ; it weighs 120,000 lbs.* Near the south-western angle of the Imperial City stands the Mohammedan mosque, and a large number of Turks live in its vicinity, whose ancestors were brought from Turkestan about a century ago ; this part of the city is consequently the chief resort of all Mohammedans coming to the capital from fli. South of the mosque, near the division wall, stands the spacious church of Heaven's Lord, and a convent attached to it, which the Jesuits and Portuguese built in the times of their influence ; it was the finest specimen of architecture in Peking, but is now going to decay. There are religious edifices in the Chinese metropolis appropriated to many forms of religion, viz. the Greek and Latin churches, Islamism, Budhism in its two principal forms, Ration alism, ancestral worship, state worship, and temples dedicated to Confucius and other deified mortals, besides a great number in which the popular idols of the country are adored. Among them is the temple where the tablets of the kings and emperors of former dynasties are collectively worshipped, except a few who have been rejected as unworthy of this honor on account of their wickedness — a feature which recalls to mind the custom in ancient Jerusalem of not burying wicked princes in the sepul chres of the kings. Distinguished statesmen of all ages, called by the Chinese kwoh chu, or " pillars of state," are associated with their masters in this temple, as not unworthy to receive equal honors. A little west of this remarkable temple is the White Pagoda temple, so called from a costly obelisk near it erected by Kublai in the 13th century, and rebuilt in 1819. Pere Hyacinthe says the corners are covered with jasper, and the projecting parts of the roof with ornaments of exquisite work manship tastefully arranged. Around this edifice, which contains * Magaillans' History of China, page 123. OUTER, OR CHINESE CITY. 65 a scab taken from the forehead of Budha, caused by his constantly knocking his head on the ground in worship, are one hundred and eight small pillars on which lamps are burned in its honor. These are the principal buildings and establishments worthy of note in Peking. Outside of the city, on the east, is the Tem ple of Heaven, situated in a large area and surrounded with many spacious buildings ; on the west of the city is a correspond ing structure called the Temple of Earth, both of them con nected with the state religion. The southern and most populous portion of the city contains no edifices of any importance, nor is the Chinese part as well built as the Tartar city ; the walls are not as solid, and it resembles ordinary Chinese towns. It is not subject to the same rigid military rule as the northern half, and is consequently the resort of many persons in quest of relaxation and dissipation. The areas of the two are nearly the same, but a large portion of the southern is occupied by the immense court yards connected with the temples of Heaven and Earth. The first of these edifices stands east of the avenue leading from the southern gate to the Tartar city, in an inclosure mea suring three miles around. The Tien tan, or altar to Heaven, is a round terrace consisting of three stages, each ten feet high, respectively 120, 90, and 60 feet in diameter, paved with marble, and protected by balustrades. A square wall surrounds this altar, beyond which is the palace of Abstinence, where the emperor fasts three days preparatory to offering the annual sacri fice to heaven at the winter solstice. Some other buildings, and a few statues, are connected with this place, but no priests live in the inclosure, the emperor himself, as vicegerent of heaven, being the pontifex maximus. On the western side of the avenue, over against the Tien tan, is the Sien Nung tan, or altar to Earth, as it may be translated, though it is professedly dedicated to the deified monarch Shinnung, the supposed inventor of agriculture. This altar stands in an inclosure about two miles in circum ference, and really consists of four separate altars : to the spirits of the heavens, those of the earth, to the planet Jupiter, and to Shinnung The worship at this altar is performed at the vernal equinox, at which time the ceremony of ploughing a part of the inclosure is performed by the emperor, assisted by members of the Board of Rites. A little west of this inclosure is an artificial pool, dug in 1771, called the Heh Lung tan or Black Dragon 66 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. pool, dedicated to the spirits of the waters, where his majesty performs special supplications whenever the country suffers from drought or deluge. These three areas occupy a large part of the southern city, and east of the altar to Heaven, is an extensive space devoted to the rearing of vegetables. These chasms in the settled portions of Peking, including that part of the Imperial city occupied by the Western Park, render it improbable that the population of the Chinese metropolis much exceeds two millions, including those dwelling in the suburbs around each gate. The park of Yuen Ming yuen (i. e. Round and Splendid gar dens), so celebrated in the history of the foreign embassies to Peking, lies about eight miles north-west of the city, and is esti mated to contain twelve square miles. The country in this direction rises into gentle hills, and advantage has been taken of the natural surface in the arrangement of the different parts of the ground, so that the whole presents every variety of hill and dale, woodlands and lawns, interspersed with canals, pools, rivu lets, and lakes, the banks of which have been thrown up or diver sified in imitation of the free hand of nature. Some parts are tilled, groves and tangled thickets occur here and there, and places are purposely left wild in order to contrast the better with the highly cultivated precincts of a palace, or to form a rural path way to a retired summer-house. Barrow says there are no less than thirty distinct places of residence for the emperor or his minis ters within this park, around which are many houses occupied by eunuchs and servants, each constituting a little village. The principal hall of audience stands upon a granite platform, and is surrounded by a peristyle of wooden columns upon which the roof rests ; the length is one hundred and ten feet, the breadth forty-two, and the height twenty. Within the outer colonnade is another serving for the walls of the room, having intercolumnia- tions of brick- work about four feet high, and lattice-work covered with oiled paper, so contrived as to be thrown open in pleasant weather. Above the lattices, but between the top of the columns and g:>ing around the hall, is an elaborately carved frieze gaily decorated ; the ceiling, also, is whimsically painted, and cor responds to the inclination of the roof. The throne stands in a recess at the head of the hall, and is made of wood beautifully carved. The general appearance of this and other buildings in this inclosure is shabby, and neglect in so changeable a climate GARDENS OF YUEN MING YUEN. 67 soon destroys all the varnish and wood work upon which the Chinese bestow their chief pains.* " It was at a place called Hai-tien," says Davis, " in the immediate vicinity of these gardens, that the strange scene occurred which terminated in the dismissal of the embassy of 1816. On his arrival there, about daylight in the morning, with the commissioners and a few other gentlemen, the ambassador was drawn to one of the emperor's temporary residences by an invitation from Duke Ho, as he was called, the imperial rela tive charged with the conduct of the negotiations. After passing through an open court, where were assembled a vast number of grandees in their dresses of ceremony, they were shown into a wretched room, and soon encompassed by a well-dressed crowd, among whom were princes of the blood by dozens, wearing yel low girdles. With a childish and unmannerly curiosity, con sistent enough with the idle and disorderly life which many of them are said to lead, they examined the persons and dress of the gentlemen without ceremony ; while these, tired with their sleep less journey, and disgusted at the behavior of the celestials, turned their backs upon them, and laid themselves down to rest. Duke Ho soon appeared, and surprised the ambassador by urging him to proceed directly to an audience of the emperor, who was waiting for him. His lordship in vain remonstrated that to morrow had been fixed for the first audience, and that tired and dusty as they all were at present, it would be worthy neither of the emperor nor of himself to wait on his majesty in a manner so unprepared. He urged, too, that he was unwell, and required immediate rest. Duke Ho became more and more pressing, and at length forgot himself so far as to grasp the ambassador's arm violently, and one of the others stepped up at the same time. His lordship immediately shook them off, and the gentlemen crowded about him ; while the highest indignation was expressed at such treatment, and a determined resolution to proceed to no audience this morning. The ambassador at length retired, with the appearance of satisfaction on the part of Duke Ho, that the audience should take place to-morrow. There is every reason, however, to suppose that this person had been largely bribed by * Chinese Repository, Vol. II., pp. 432, 481. Hyacinthe, Ville de Pekin. Barrow's Travels. Magaillans. 68 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. the heads of the Canton local government to frustrate the views of the embassy, and prevent an audience of the emperor. The mission, at least, was on its way back in the afternoon of the same day."* The principal part of the provisions required for the supply of this immense city comes from the southern provinces, or from the flocks reared in the northern part of Chihli. It has no manufac tures or trade, and the adjacent plain produces but a small amount of the food required. The government of Peking differs from that of other cities in the empire, the affairs of the depart ment being separated from it, and administered by officers resid ing in the four circuits into which it is divided. " A minister of one of the Boards is appointed superintendent of the city, and subordinate to him is a fuyin or mayor. Their dutit?s consist in having charge of the metropolitan domain, for the purpose of ex tending good government to its four divisions. They have under them two distinct magistrates, each of whom rules half the city ; none of these officers are subordinate to the provincial governor, but carry affairs, which they cannot determine, to the emperor. They preside or assist at many of the festivals observed in the capital, superintend the military police, and hold the courts which take cognisance of the offences committed there. "f The thoroughfares leading across Peking, from one gate to the other, are broad, unpaved avenues, more than a hundred feet wide, and which appear still wider from the little elevation of the buildings ; the side streets are narrow lanes, as is the case with most of the streets in Chinese cities. The inhabitants of the avenues are required to keep them well sprinkled in summer ; but in rainy weather they are almost impassable from the mud, the level surface of the ground preventing rapid drainage. The crowds which throng tliese avenues, some engaged in various callings, along the sides or in the middle of the way, and others busily passing and repassing, together with the gay appearance of the sign-boards, and an nir cf business in the shops, render the great streets of the Chinese metropolis very bustling, and to a foreigner, a very interesting scene. The buildings in the ave nues are shops, whose fronts are so contrived as to be entirely opened when necessary ; they are constructed of panels or * The Chinese, Vol. I., page 307. t Chinese Repository, Vol. IV., page 181. STREETS OF PEKING. 69 shutters fitting into grooves, and secured to a row of strong posts on the inside, which set into mortices. At night, when the shop is closed, nothing is seen from without^ but in the day-time, when this movable front is taken away, and the goods exposed in the entrance, the scene becomes more animated. The sign boards are broad planks, fixed in stone bases on each side of the shop-front, and reaching to the eaves, or above them ; the cha racters are large and of different colors, and in order to attract more notice, the signs are often hung with various colored flags, bearing inscriptions setting forth the excellence of the goods. The appearance of a street thus trimmed is very gay, and the sides of the houses themselves are not less brilliant, being painted blue or green, mixed with gold. At the intersection of the ave nues are placed honorary portals or tablets, called pai lu, erected in memory of distinguished persons. The police of the city is materially assisted in its duties by the gates, which are placed at the heads of the streets. During the night the great thoroughfares are usually quiet ; they are lighted a little by the lanterns which hang before the doors of the houses, but generally are dark and cheerless. In the metropolis, as in all Chinese cities, the air in the lanes and streets is constantly polluted by the stench arising from private vessels and public reservoirs for urine and all kinds of offal, which is all carefully collected by scavengers, and carried out of the gates in the same boxed carts they bring their vegetables to market. By this ex change of raw material for the manufactured article, although the streets are kept clean, they are never sweet ; but habit ren ders the people almost insensible to this as well as many other nuisances. Carriages, or rather carts, sedans, and horses, are all used for locomotion, and are to be hired in all the thorough fares ; the Manchu women ride astride, and their number in the streets, both riding and walking, imparts a peculiarity to the crowd, which is not seen in cities farther south. The various tribes in Central Asia have representatives among the throng, and their different costumes add to the liveliness of the scene. The environs beyond the suburbs are occupied with groves, private mansions, hamlets, and cultivated fields, in or near which are trees, so that the city, viewed from a distance, appears as if situated in a thick forest. It is colder in winter than any other place in the same latitude, and the poor, who re- 70 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. sort thither from other parts of the province, form a very needy and troublesome part of the population, sometimes rising in large mobs and pillaging thengranaries to supply themselves with food, but more commonly perishing in great numbers from cold and hunger. Its peace is always an object of considerable solicitude with the imperial government, not only as it may involve the personal safety of the emperor, but still more from the disquieting effect it may have upon the administration of the empire, in im peding the efficiency of its orders. The possession of this capital by an invading force is more nearly equivalent to the control of the country than it would be in most European kingdoms, but not as much as it would be in Siam, Burmah and other native Asiatic states. The good influences which may be exerted upon the na tion from the metropolis are likewise correspondingly great, and the purification of this source of contamination, and liberalizing this centre of power, will confer a vast benefit upon the Chinese people. Besides the capital, Chihli contains several other large cities, among which Pauting fu, the residence of the governor of the province, and Tientsin fu, the entrepot of the trade which comes through the Pei ho coastwise, are the most important. The for- mer lies about eighty miles south-west of the capital, on the great road leading to Shansi. The whole department is described as a pleasant, well cultivated, and populous region ; it is well watered by various tributaries of the Pei ho, and possesses two or three small lakes. Tientsin fu is the largest port on the coast above Shanghai, and the only one of importance not open to foreign trade. Owing, however, to the shallowness of the gulf of Pechele towards its western shores, and to a bar at the mouth of the Pei ho, over which at neap tide only three or four feet of water flow, the port is rendered almost inaccessible to foreign vessels, and would be of little avail for trade if it was thrown open. Its size and im portance are owing more to its being the terminus of the Grand Canal, where all the produce and taxes for the use of the capital are brought, than to the extent of its maritime trade. Mr. Gutzlaff, who visited Tientsin in 1831, describes it as a bustling place. " All the avenues were thronged, and in the shops — generally well filled with Chinese, but sometimes also with European com modities — trade seemed to be brisk. The town, which stretches TIENTSIN FU AND THE PEI HO. 71 several miles along the banks of the river, equals Canton in the bustle of its busy population, and surpasses it in the importance of its native trade. The streets are unpaved, .and the houses are built of mud, but within they are furnished with accommodations in the best Chinese style. The trade is quite extensive ; more than five hundred junks arrive annually from the southern ports of China, and from Cochinchina and Siam. The river is so thronged with junks, and the mercantile transactions give such life and motion to the scene, as strongly to remind one of Liver pool. As the land in this vicinity yields few productions, and the capital swallows up immense stores, the importations required to supply the wants of the people must be very great."* The approach to this city from the eastward indicates its importance, and the change from the sparsely populated country lying along the banks of the Pei ho, to the dense crowds on shore, and the fleets of boats before the city, adds greatly to the vivacity of the scene. " If fine buildings and striking localities are required to give interest to a scene," remarks Mr. Ellis, " this has no claims ; but, on the otlier hand, if the gradual crowding of junks till they become innumerable, a vast population, buildings, though not elegant, yet regular and peculiar, careful and successful cul tivation, can supply these deficiencies, the entrance to Tientsin will not be without attractions to the traveller." The stacks of salt near the city along the river arrest the attention of the voy ager, and it is not improbable that the immense quantity of this article collected at this city is furnished as a tax. The barges of the English embassy were two hours in passing the town, and the observers judged it to extend a mile or more back from the river ; it probably contains nearly half a million of inhabitants, and its position renders it one of the most important cities in the empire, and the key of the capital. The banks of the Pei ho, near the ocean, are flat and sterile, their inhabitants poor and squalid, and their habitations mean, dirty, and dilapidated. The scenery and people improve as one advances up the meandering channel and approaches Tientsin, which is still further bettered from thence up to Tung chau. In some parts of its course the Pei ho is higher than the adjacent country, which is also true of some of the other streams that * Chinese Repository, Vol. I., page 185. 72 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. cross the Plain. Near the embouchure of the river is Ta-ku, a small town, chiefly noticeable as the spot where the first inter view between the Chinese and English plenipotentiaries was held, on the breaking out of the war in 1840 ; but the village at the mouth of the river is Tungku, and between the two is Si-ku. The general aspect of this province is cheerless, and the soil, between Peking and the ocean, so poor as barely to support its inhabitants. In the southern and western sections it is less monotonous and more fertile. One of the towns of note, in the journey from Tungku to the capital, a distance of 120 miles in a direct line, but 182 if all the sinuosities of the river be followed, is Tung chau, where all boats unload their passengers and cargoes, and proceed by a broad avenue twelve miles long to the capital. The streets of Tung chau are straight and paved, with a raised foot-path on their sides, but for size and importance the town is inferior to Tientsin fu. Another city of note in Chihli is Siuenhwa fu, situated be tween the branches of the Great Wall. This town was visited by Timkowski in 1820, who remarks, " the crenated wall which surrounds it is thirty feet high, and puts one in mind of that of the Kremlin, and resembles those of several towns in Russia ; it consists of two thin parallel brick walls, the intermediate space being filled with clay and sand. The wall is flanked with towers. We passed through three gates to enter the city ; the first is covered with iron nails ; at the second is the guard-house ; we thence proceeded along a broad street, bordered with shops of hardware ; we went through several large and small streets, which are broad and clean ; but, considering its extent, the city is thinly peopled." The department of Chahar, or Tsakhar, lies beyond the Great Wall, north and west of the province, a wild, mountainous and thinly settled country, chiefly inhabited by Mongol shepherds of the Tsakhar tribe, who keep the flocks and herds of the empe ror, and who are considered as among his most faithful subjects. These shepherds supply a great part of the animal food consumed nt Peking. There are several lakes in this province, the largest of which, the Peh hu in the south-western part,, connects with the Pei ho through the river Hii-to. The various branches of the former stream afford water communication through most parts of Chihli, PROVINCE OF SHANTUNG. 73 and lead into the adjacent provinces of Shansi and Honan. The Pei ho, or White river, is the largest stream between the Yellow river and the Great Wall, and drains all that part of the plain east of Shansi and south of the edge of the table land. It enters the sea by two channels, which do not unite until above Tientsin, and the principal part of the trade is on the southern branch ; this diversion of the waters greatly interferes with the naviga tion, while the little impetus they receive in their course through the plain is insufficient to carry the silt far beyond the mouth of the river. On one of the northern rivers, called the Jeh ho, or Hot stream, which flows south from Chahar into the gulf of Pechele, is the emperor's summer retreat ; it lies nearly due north of Taku about 170 miles. The route there from Peking, and the various objects of interest to be seen at that place, are familiar to the readers of Staunton, and the chief interest con nected with it is associated with Macartney's visit in 1793.* The principal productions of Chihli are millet and wheat, many kinds of pulse and fruits, and a little rice. One cause of the poverty of the soil in the eastern portion is probably owing to the " nitrous exhalations" which Du Halde speaks of. Coal is found in the province, and among other modes of using it in the capital, that of mixing the dust with a small proportion of clay, and working it into cakes, is common. Among the mineral productions, marble and granite occur, both of which are used for architectural purposes ; also some kinds of precious stones, and clay suitable for bricks and chinaware. The province of Shantung (i. e. East of the Hills) has a longer coast-line than Chihli, its maritime border being more than half its whole circuit. It lies south of the gulf of Pechele, south-east of Chihli, north of Kiangsu, and borders on Honan, where the Yellow river divides the two. Most of its area is level, the only hilly part being the peninsular portion, where the highest points rise too high to admit of cultivation. Its area is 65,184 square miles, or about the same as that of the states of Georgia or Missouri ; the population is 28,958,764, which is an average of 444 to a square mile ; the United Kingdom contains 27J millions, and Scotland, Ireland and Wales together .equal the area of Shantung. The Grand Canal traverses this province * Chinese Repository, Vol. XL, pp. 92, 438. 5 74 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. from Lintsing chau in the north-west, in a south-easterly direc tion through the western districts, and adds greatly to its import ance. The peninsular shores are generally bold, and full of inden tations, some of which are excellent harbors, but there is no sea port town of any importance along the entire coast ; no river of any size disembogues within the province, and on each side of the peninsula the waters are shallow. Tangchau fu, on the northern shores, is the largest. Barrow says, the hills along the shore have a remarkably uniform, conical shape, resembling the bonnets worn by officers. The hilly regions of this part are fer tile and well watered, but not as thickly settled as those of the plain. Speaking of the appearance of the country, coming from the north, Davis says, " The flat country through which we had hitherto journeyed all the way from Peking, at this autumnal season, had proved very unhealthy to many of our number ; but we were soon to perceive an alteration at the point where the Chah ho, i. e. river of Flood-gates — the Grand Canal — com mences its course through a region where the inequalities of surface render those artificial aids necessary. Everything ap peared to wear a more prosperous and wealthy aspect as we advanced into Shantung, and upon the whole a marked improve ment took place generally as we proceeded southward." This province is one of the most celebrated in Chinese history, partly from its having been the scene of many remarkable events in their annals, but more particularly from its containing the birth place of the sage Confucius, and his disciple Mencius, whose fame has gone over the earth. The tomb of the former, who died b. c. 479, at Kiuhfau, is a majestic monument, embosomed in a forest of oaks, whose gloomy shades are well fitted for nou rishing the respect and homage paid his memory. In an account of a missionary voyage along the promontory, in 1835, Mr. Ste vens* remarks that on one occasion he and his companion met, at the entrance of a village, two elders who declined to receive their tracts, saying, " We have seen your books, and neither desire nor approve of them. In the instructions of our sage we have sufficient, and they are far superior to any foreign doctrines you can bring." The inhabitants of the province are • Chinese Repository, Vol. IV, page 317. MOUNTAINS AND CITIES OF SHANTUNG. 75 proud of their nativity on this score, much as the woman of Sa maria was because Jacob's cattle had drunk water at the well of Sychar. One of the highest mountains in China, called Tai shan, or Great mount, is situated in this province ; it is the great ren dezvous of devotees, and every sect has there its temples and idols, scattered everywhere up and down its sides, in which priests chant their prayers, and practise a thousand superstitions to attract pilgrims to their shrines. During the spring, the roads leading to the Tai shan are obstructed with long caravans of people coming to accomplish their vows, to supplicate the dei ties for health or riches, or to solicit the joys of heaven in ex change for the woes of earth. A missionary mentions having met with pilgrims going to it, one party of whom consisted of old dames, who had with infinite fatigue and discomfort come from the south of Honan, about three hundred miles, lo " remind their god of the long abstinence from flesh and fish they had ob served during the course of their lives, and solicit, as a recom pense, a happy transmigration for their souls." The youngest of this party was 78, and the oldest 90 years.* The capital of the province is Tsinan fu, but it has not lately been visited by foreigners — it lying off the great route of travel on the canal. Its manufactures are coarse fabrics made of wild silk, and ornaments of liu-li, a kind of vitreous compound made to resemble serpentine, jade, ice, and other things. The capital of Tsining chau lies-on the canal, and is described by Davis as an opulent and flourishing place, judging from the gilded and carved shops, temples, and public offices in the suburbs, which stretch along the eastern banks of the canal ; just beyond the town, the canal is only a little raised above the level of the ex tensive marshes on each side, and further south the swamps increase rapidly : when Amherst's embassy passed, the whole country, as far as the eye could reach, displayed the effects of a most extensive recent inundation. Davis adds, " The waters were on a level with those of the canal, and there was no need of dams, which were themselves nearly under water, and sluices for discharging the superfluous water were occasionally observed. Clumps of large trees, cottages, and towers, were to be seen on * Annales, 1844, tome XVI., page 421. 76 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. all sides half under water, and deserted by the inhabitants ; the number of the latter led to the inference that they were pro vided as places of refuge in case of inundation, which must be here very frequent. Wretched villages occurred frequently on the right hand bank, along which the tracking path was in some places so completely undermined as to give way at every step, obliging them to lay down hurdles of reeds to afford a passage."* One of the most important towns is Lint-sing chau, on the Yu ho, at its junction with the canal, lying in the midst of a beauti ful country, full of gardens and cultivated grounds, interspersed with buildings. This place is the depot for much of the produce brought on the canal, and is consequently a rendezvous for large fleets of boats and barges. Near it is a pagoda in good repair, about 150 feet high, the basement of which is built of granite, and the other stories of glazed bricks. The city of Tangchau fu, lying on the northern shore of the promontory, has some trade with Liautung and Corea, but the commerce of Shantung is less than any of the other maritime provinces. The harbor was visited by Lord Macartney in 1793, when the prefect of the city came off to the Lion ; and again by Capt. Elliot in 1840, to procure a supply of provisions for the ships of war. The officers of the place were much alarmed, lest his visit was a hostile one, and preparations had been made to resist an attack by collecting troops and building forts. The build ings do not occupy half the space inclosed by the walls ; and the harbor can be entered only at high water, f The shores east of Tangchau fu, near Weihai wei, were visited by Messrs. Med hurst and Stevens in 1835, and the country described as delight ful, affording a pleasing succession of hill and dale, fertilized with streams, and densely inhabited. The soil in many places poorly repaid the labor of tillage, but wherever the travellers passed evinced the diligence of the peasantry ; who, on their part, presented, amidst all their wretchedness, many pleasing traits, good-humoredly offering to divide their scanty meals with the travellers, and receiving the books offered them. The account of their rambles over the country between Weihai wei and Ki- shan so, and of the treatment they received in Shantung generally, is highly interesting. • .Sketches of China, Vol. I., page 257. t Bingham's Expedition to China, Vol. I., pages 255-279. CONDITION OF THE PEOPLE. 77 Mr. Stevens observes, speaking of the towns, " that all things mark decay rather than growth ; everywhere there are lookout towers on the hills fallen to ruins, forts dismantled, or nearly so ; and long lines of mud fortifications inclosing many acres of land, some of which are now turned to cultivated fields without a building, and others inclose a hamlet, the miserable remnant of a fortress." This shows rather the peaceful state of the coun try, while the cultivation indicates that the neglect is not owing to a decrease of population. The remarks of Mr. Stevens, on his visit to this province, give a lively description of the condi tion of the people. " These poor people know nothing, from youth to old age, but the same monotonous round of toils for a subsistence, and never see, never hear anything of the world around them. Improvements in the useful arts and sciences, and an increase of the conveniences of life, are never known among them. In the place where their fathers lived and died, do they live, and toil, and die, to be succeeded by another gene ration in the same manner. Few of the comforts of life can be found among them ; their houses consisted in general of granite and thatched roofs, but neither table, chair, nor floor, nor any arti cle of furniture could be seen in the houses of the poorest. Every man had his pipe, and tea was in most dwellings. They were industriously engaged, some in ploughing, others in reaping, some carrying out manure, and others bringing home produce ; num bers were collected on the thrashing-floors, winnowing, sifting and packing wheat, rice, millet, peas, and in drying maize, all with the greatest diligence. Here, too, were their teams for ploughing yoked together in all possible ludicrous combinations ; sometimes a cow and an ass ; or a cow, an ox and an ass ; or a cow and two asses ; or four asses ; and all yoked abreast. All the women had small feet, and wore a pale and sallow aspect, and their miserable, squalid appearance excited an indelible feeling of compassion for their helpless lot. They were not always shy, but were generally ill clad and ugly, apparently laboring in the fields like the men. But on several occasions, young ladies clothed in gay silks and satins, riding astride upon bags on don keys, were seen. No prospect of melioration for either men or women appears but in the liberalizing and happy influences of Christianity."* * Chinese Repository, Vol. IV., pp., 308-335. Medhursfs China, Chaps. XV.-XIX. 78 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. Shantung is well watered ; numerous small streams run sea wards from the hills in the east, and tributaries of the Yellow and White rivers flow through the western and southern parts. Coal is abundant, and largely exported ; iron mines are worked to a considerable extent. Among other productions are natural calculi obtained from the stomachs of cows and goats, which are highly prized in Chinese pharmacy. Millet, rice, wheat, and maize — the former of which furnishes the principal article of food — are abundant ; water-fowl and fish plentiful, and the fruits numerous : the pears are largely exported, but their flavor is inferior to their size, which is said to reach the weight of eight or ten pounds. Hams made from dogs are extensively cured in Shantung, and form an article of export.* The province of Shansi (i. e. West of the Hills) lies between Chihli and Shensi, and north of Honan ; the Yellow river bounds it on the west and partly on the south, and the Great Wall forms most of the northern frontier. This province is the original seat of the Chinese people ; and many of the places mentioned and scenes recorded in their ancient annals, occurred within its bor ders. It lies on the western limits of the Plain, and its rugged surface presents a striking contrast to the level tracts in Chihli and Shantung, although most of the lowlands are represented as being well cultivated and terraced. The northern and southern districts exhibit great diversity in their animal, mineral, and vege table productions. Some of the favorite imperial hunting-grounds are in the north ; and in the coal, iron, cinnabar, copper, marble, lapis-lazuli, jasper, salt, and other minerals which it affords, the inhabitants find sources of wealth. The principal grains are wheat and millet, besides a large variety of vegetables and fruits, including grapes. The rivers are numerous, but not large, and almost every one of them is a tributary of the Yellow river. The Fan ho, about 300 miles long, is the largest, and empties' into it near the south-western corner of the province, after drain ing the central part. The capital, Taiyuen fu, lies on the eastern bank of the Fan ho ; and though the palaces of the princes who formerly swayed their sceptre here are fallen into decay, the city is still populous, and contains manufactures of felt carpets. There is little to re- * Chinese Repository, Vol. XL, page 557. PROVINCE OF HONAN. 79 mark respecting this province, and much of the information pos sessed concerning it has been derived from the letters of Romish missionaries, who have a seminary in its borders. They describe some of the passes among the mountains as truly dangerous, and the nature of the country generally such as might be expected on the ascent to the high table land of Mongolia. The charac ter of the inhabitants partakes somewhat of the roughness of their country ; and in their manners, dwellings, and dress, they are less polished and comfortable than the lowlanders of Kiangsu or Honan. The great roads from Peking to the south-west and west pass through most of the large towns in this province. The province of Honan (i. e. South of the River) comprises some of the most fertile parts of'the Plain, and, on account of its abundance and central position, is sometimes called Chung Hwa or the Middle Flower. It is bounded north by Shensi and Chihli, east by Nganhwui, south and south-west by Hupeh, and west by Shensi. The Yellow river flows through the northern side of it, and all the other streams within its borders are branches of that river, or of the Han kiang, a tributary of the Great river. The surface of the country is level. A range of low hills runs through it in a south-easterly direction, forming the water shed of these streams ; and in the western part some points rise to high peaks. Honan produces food for the support of its own population, and large quantities for exportation to the capital and elsewhere, besides silk, cotton, hemp or flax, tutenague, cinnabar, mica, and other minerals. There are no lakes in the province, and almost every part of it is susceptible of cultivation ; exten sive forests in the western districts supply timber for building and other purposes. Kaifung fu, the capital, is situated about a league from the southern bank of the Yellow river, whose bed is here elevated above the adjacent country, and consequently in danger from the freshes and bursting away of the river's banks. It is an ancient city, and the efforts to protect it from the waters of the river by strengthening the banks have no doubt contributed, during a succession of ages, to elevate the whole bed to its present danger ous height. The dykes in the vicinity of the city extend many leagues, and are under the superintendence of the governor of the rivers. During the period of the Manchu conquest, Kaifung was defended by a loyal general, who, seeing no other resource 80 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. against the invaders, broke down the embankments to drown them, by which manoeuvre, upwards of 300,000 of the inhabitants perished. The city has since been rebuilt, but has not attained to its ancient splendor, if credit can be given to the Statistics of Kaifung, in which it is described as having been six leagues in circuit in the twelfth century, approached by five roads, and containing numerous palaces, gardens, and government bouses. It has undergone various fortunes, having been over flown fifteen times, and sustained eleven sieges ; a repetition of the former calamity occurred two or three years since, which destroyed part of the city, and dispersed the inhabitants ; some of them begged their way as far as Canton, travelling in small parties, and obtaining a precarious living by exhibiting monkeys and performing curious tricks. Kaifung is noted as the principal seat of the Jews in China, of whose present condition and num bers little is known, and also as the capital of Fuhhi, the founder of the Chinese monarchy. The province of Kiangsu is named from the first syllable of the capital, Kiangning fu, joined to Su, part of the name of the richest city, Suchau fu. It lies along the seacoast, in a north westerly direction, having Shantung on the north, Nganhwui on the west, and Chehkiang on the south. The area is about 45,000 sq. m., consisting, with little interruption, of level tracts inter spersed with lakes and marshes, through which flow their two noble rivers, which as they are the source of the extraordinary fertility of this region, so also render it obnoxious to destructive inundations, or cover the low portions with irreclaimable marshes. The region of Kiangnan, as this and the next province are still called, is where the beauty and riches of China are most amply displayed ; " and whether we consider," remarks Gutzlaff, " their agricultural resources, their great manufactures, their various productions, their excellent situation on the banks of these two large streams, their many canals and tributary rivers, these two provinces doubtless constitute the best territory of China." The staple productions are grain, cotton, tea, silk, and rice, and most kinds of manufactures are here carried to the greatest perfection. The people have the reputation of possessing the greatest intelli gence, and although the province has long ceased to possess a court, its cities still present a gayer aspect, and are adorned with better structures than any others in the empire. PROVINCE OF KIANGSU. 81 Probably no other country of equal extent is better watered than Kiangsu. The Great river, the Yellow river, the Grand canal, with many smaller streams and canals, and a succession of lakes along the line of the canal, afford easy communication through every part. The sea-coast, between the rivers, is low, and is rendered arable by constructing dykes, to prevent the overflow of the ocean. There are no hills of consequence in the province. The largest lake is the Hungtsih, about 200 miles in circumference. South of it is the Kauyu lake, and on the east ern side of the canal opposite is Pauying lake, both of them broad sheets of water. Numerous small lakes lie around them. Tai hu, or Great lake, on the south, lies partly in Kiangsu and partly in Chehkiang, and is the largest body of water in the provinces, next to Tungting hu. Its borders are skirted by romantic scenery, and its bosom broken by numerous islets, affording convenient resort to the fishermen who get their subsist ence from its waters. Kiangning fu, better known abroad as Nanking, is the capital of the province, and well situated for the metropolis of a kingdom ; it was once the most celebrated city in the empire, whether regard be had to its extent, its buildings, its manufactures, or the character of its inhabitants. It has again been rendered famous from its being the place where the English compelled the Chi nese to submit to their terms of peace in August, 1842. Every opportunity of examining the place and its environs was improved by the officers of the Expedition, and from their observations it is evident that its ancient size and influence have much dimi nished ; and had it not been well situated for trade it would pro bably ere this have dwindled to decay. One of them says, " There are remains of an ancient or outer wall which can be traced for about thirty-five miles, but how much of this immense space was formerly occupied by houses cannot now well be determined. The walls of the present city are not nearly so great, and of the space inclosed within them perhaps not more than one-eighth is actually occupied by the town."* Davis remarks the striking resemblance between Rome and Nanking, the area within the walls of both being partially inhabited, and ruins of buildings lying here and there among the cultivated fields, the melancholy remains of departed glory. * Voyages of the Nemesis, page 444, 82 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. The part occupied by the Manchus is separated by a cross wall from the Chinese town. The great extent of the wall ren ders the defence of the city difficult, besides which it is over looked from the hills on the east, from one of which, the Chung shan, a wide view of the surrounding country can be obtained. On this eastern face are three gates ; the land near the two towards the river is marshy, and the gates are approached on stone causeys. A deep canal or ditch runs up from the river directly under the walls on the west, serving to strengthen the approaches on that side. According to Ellis, who rather under estimates its population at 400,000, Nanking consists of four rather wide and parallel avenues intersected by others of less width. The avenues are not so broad as those of Peking, but are on the whole clean, well-paved, and bordered with hand somely furnished shops. The ancient palaces have nearly disappeared, the only remark able monuments of royalty, which remain being some sepulchral statues situated not far from the walls. These statues are near an ancient cemetery, which the visitors called the Tombs of the Kings, and formed an avenue leading up to the sepulchres ; they consisted of " gigantic figures like warriors cased in a kind of armor, standing on either side of the road, across which at intervals large stone tablets are extended, supported by large blocks of stone instead of pillars." Situated at some distance from these statues are a number of rude colossal figures of horses, elephants, and other animals, placed without any distinct arrangement, whose purpose may have been originally to orna ment particular tombs, but which have been scattered by other hands. There is a peculiar antique Egyptian cast about them all, and at the time of the visit, the high grass which grew around added still further an appearance of venerable age.* Nothing has made Nanking more celebrated abroad than the Porcelain Tower, called by the Chinese the Recompensing Favor Monastery, which stands pre-eminent above all other similar buildings in China for its completeness and elegance, the quality of the material of which it is built, and the quantity of gilding with which its interior is embellished. Its form is octagonal, divided into nine equal stories, the circumference of the lower Voyages of the Nemesis, page 452. PORCELAIN TOWER AT NANKING. 83 story being one hundred and twenty feet, decreasing gradually to the top. Its base rests upon a solid foundation of brickwork ten feet high, up which a flight of twelve steps leads into the tower, whence a spiral staircase of one hundred and ninety steps carries the visitor to the summit, two hundred and sixty-one feet from the ground. The outer face is covered with slabs of glazed porcelain of various colors, principally green, red, yellow, and white ; the body of the edifice is brick. At every story there is a projecting roof, covered with green tiles, and a bell suspended from each corner. The saloons are more gaudy than elegant, and are filled with a great number of little gilded images placed in niches. This unique structure was completed A. d. 1430, having been nineteen years building. According to the Chinese account, one of their princes erected a monastery on this spot in the second century, and that having been demolished, the emperor Kienwan rebuilt it about a. d. 372, and deposited a precious relic of Budha within it. In the seventh century, it was again enlarged, and called the monastery of Ce lestial Felicity, but was destroyed by fire when the Mongols reigned over China. At length Yungloh, who moved his court from Nanking to Peking in 1411, recommenced its erection, "in order to recompense the great favor of her majesty, the august empress," but did not live to finish it ; his son, when it was done, called it the First Pagoda. Its roof was overlaid with copper ; 152 bells, in all, were suspended from the top and corners, and 128 lamps hung on the outside. The entire cost is stated at $3,313,978. In the top were suspended a number of pearls, books, money, and pieces of silk, to ward off evil influences. In 1801, " the god of Thunder, while expelling a strange monster, chased him to this place, when instantly three parts of the nine stories of the pagoda were demolished ; but the strength of the god was so awfully stern, and the influence of the Budhistic doc trines was so boundless, that the whole building was not de stroyed." The damages done by the " god of Thunder " were repaired by government. From the summit, a mast rises thirty feet, which is surrounded by an immense iron coil, appearing like rings from below ; a gilded ball rests upon the peak. It is situated beyond the southern wall of the city, in the midst of the grounds attached to the monastery, which are about three miles in circuit, and the view from the summit amply repays the 84 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. labor of the ascent.* The country around is beautifully diver sified by hill and dale, hamlets and fields, while yet in some parts within the walls it looks partially deserted. The enter prise and resources of Hungwu, the founder of this city, must have been great, to have enabled him to lay out and build a city of the size of Nanking, and impart to it the reputation it has since had ; for it was the metropolis only half a century. Nanking has extensive manufactories of fine satin and crape, and the cotton cloth which foreigners call Nankeen derives its name from this city ; paper and ink of fine quality, and beauti ful artificial flowers of pith paper, are produced here. In distant parts of the empire, any fabric or article which is superior to the common run of workmanship, is said to be from Nanking, though the speaker means only that the thing in question is made in that region. Nanking is renowned, too, for its scholars and literary character, as well as manufactures, and in this particular it stands among the first places of learning in the country. It is the resi dence of the governor-general of three provinces, and conse quently the centre of a large concourse of officials, educated men, and students seeking for promotion ; which, with its large libraries and bookstores, all indicating and assisting literary pur suits, and the superior accuracy and elegance of the editions published here, combine to give it this distinguished place. In the monastery on Golden island, near Chinkiang fu, a very ex tensive library was found by the English officers, but there was no haste in examining its contents, as they intended to have car ried off the whole collection with them, had not the peace pre sented. The city of Suchau now exceeds Nanking in size and riches. It is situated on islands lying in Great lake, and this sheet of water is of such extent as to afford water communication along its shores to most parts of the "department. The walls of the city are about ten miles in circumference ; outside of them are four suburbs, one of which is said to extend ten miles each way, be sides which tliere is an immense floating population. The whole space includes so many canals and pools connected with the Grand canal and the lake, that it is hard to say whether the land * Voyages of the Nemesis, page 450. Chinese Repository, Vols. XIII., page 261 ; and I , page 257. SUCHAU FU AND CHINKIANG FU. 85 or the water predominates. The whole population cannot be far from two millions, including all that live in what is called the city of Suchau. It lies north-west of Shanghai, the way lying through a continual range of villages and cities ; the environs are highly cultivated, producing cotton, silk, rice, wheat, fruits, and vegetables. The Chinese regard it as one of their most beautiful and rich est cities, and have a saying, " that to be happy on earth, one must be born in Suchau, live in Canton, and die in Liauchau;" for in the first are the handsomest people, in the second the rich est luxuries, and in the third the best coffins. It has a high reputation for the splendor of its buildings, the elegance of its tombs, the picturesque scenery of its waters and gardens, the politeness and intelligence of its inhabitants, and the beauty of its women. Its manufactures of silk, linen and cotton fabrics, and works in iron, ivory, wood, horn, glass, lackered-ware, paper, and other articles, are the chief sources of its wealth and pros perity ; the kinds of silk goods produced here surpass in variety and richness those woven in any other place. Vessels can pro ceed up to the city by several channels from the Yangtsz' kiang, but all those of large burden anchor at Shanghai, or proceed up the Wusung to Sungkiang fu, from whence there is a direct pas sage to Suchau through the lake. The whole country between the Great river and lake Tai is so cut up by natural and artificial channels, that it is not easy for large craft to reach the city ; and Admiral Parker, who recon noitred the passages leading to it in the steamer Medusa, lost so much time from having taken a wrong channel, that he did not reach the city, though the smoke of the steamer was descried from the walls, causing no little consternation to its inhabitants.* The rich city of Chinkiang fu, situated at the junction of the Grand canal with the Yangtsz' kiang, has lately become well known from its unhappy fate during the late war. Its position renders it the key of the country, in respect to the transport of taxes and provisions for Peking, for when the river and canal are both blockaded, the supplies for the north and south are to a great extent intercepted. The largest part of the supplies for the capi tal had passed across the river before the arrival of the English. * Chinese Repository, Vols. XL, page 216 ; XIV., page 5S4. 86 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. In times of peace, the scenes at the junction afford a good exhi bition of the industry and trade of the people. Barrow describes " the multitude of ships of war, of burden and of pleasure, some gliding down the stream, others sailing against it ; some moving by oars, and others lying at anchor ; the banks on either side covered with towns and houses as far as the eye could reach ; as presenting a prospect more varied and cheerful than any that had hitherto occurred. Nor was the canal, on the opposite side, less lively. For two whole days we were continually passing among fleets of vessels of different construction and dimensions." The country in the vicinity is well cultivated, and described by Capt. Loch as presenting a pleasing variety. " On the south east, the hills broke into an undulating country clothed with ver dure, and firs bordering upon small lakes. Beyond, stretched the vast river we had just ascended. In the other direction, the land in the foreground continued a low and swampy flat, leaving it difficult at a little distance to determine which of the serpentine channels was the main branch ; there were innumerable sheets of water, separated by narrow mounds, so that the whole resem bled a vast lake, intersected by causeways. Willows grew along their sides, and dwellings were erected on small patches some what higher than the common surface."* The battle at Chin kiang fu occurred the 21st July, 1842, and the resistance on the part of the Manchu garrison showed that during two centuries of peace they had not altogether lost their courage. The general in command, Hailing, finding the city taken, seated himself in his office, in the midst of his papers, and set fire to the house, making it his funeral pyre. His ashes, and those of his wife and grandson, were afterwards collected, and an honorary fane or dered to be erected to his memory at public expense. Near the mouth of the Grand canal is Kin shan, or Golden I., a beautiful spot, covered with temples and monastic establish ments. A pagoda crowns the summit, and there are many pavilions and halls, of various sizes and degrees of elegance, on its sides and at the base ; but latterly, the whole establishment has considerably fallen to decay, from the withdrawal of govern mental patronage. A similar establishment is found at Siung slum, or Silver I., below Chinkiang fu, but it is on a less exten- * Events in China, p. 74. POSITION OF SHANGHAI. 87 sive scale, though a beautiful spot. Priests are the only occu pants ; temples and palaces the principal buildings, surrounded by gardens and bowers. Massive granite terraces, decorated with huge stone monsters, are reached from the water by broad flights of steps ; fine temples, placed to be seen, and yet shaded by trees, open pavilions, and secluded summer-houses, give it a delightful air of retreat and comfort, which a nearer inspection sadly disappoints. Kin shan, or Golden I., is smaller, and has more of a toy-shop appearance, from the crowd of temples, pago das, and palaces, which cover its sides, and glitter with yellow and green glazed porcelain roofs. The banks of the Yangtsz' kiang are described by travellers as not so populous and well cultivated as might be supposed in a region said to be so densely inhabited. This absence of large cities between the embouchure and Nanking, may perhaps be owing to the danger they would be in from the freshes, inducing the inhabitants to remove from the banks, as is the case along the shores of tbe Yellow and Pearl rivers. The largest seaport in Kiangsu is Shanghai hien (i. e. Ap proaching the Sea), and it is likely erelong to become one of the leading emporia in Asia. It lies on the north shore of the Wu- sung river, about fourteen miles from its mouth, in latitude 31° 10' N., and longitude 121° 30' E., at the junction of the Hwang- pu with it, and by means of both streams communicates with Suchau, Sungkiang, and other large cities on the Grand canal ; while by the Yangtsz' kiang it receives produce from Yunnan and Sz'chuen. In these respects its position resembles that of New Orleans. The town of Wusung is placed at the mouth of that river, here about a mile wide ; and two miles beyond lies the district town of Paushan. Shanghai is a walled town, three miles in circuit, through which six gates open into extensive suburbs, the two being divided from each other by a canal twenty feet wide. The city stands in a wide plain of extraordinary fertility, and intersected by numerous streamlets, affording the means of navigation and communication ; its population is estimated to be over 225,000 inhabitants. The banks of the river are covered with dwellings, temples, shops, &c, among which a temple to the Queen of Heaven, near the landing-place, is a conspicuous object. The native trade here is probably larger than at any 88 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. other city in the empire ; nearly a thousand junks have been counted lying in the Hwangpu, east of the town. The foreign trade will probably soon surpass the native in value and variety. Shanghai is a dirty place, and poorly built compared with some other towns in the province ; the houses are mostly of brick. The streets, as usual, are narrow, and in the daytime crowded with people. The merchandise which most attracts the notice of a stranger is the silk and embroidery, cotton, and cotton goods, porcelain, ready-made clothes, lined with beautiful skins and furs, bamboo pipes six feet long, and numerous shops for selling bam boo ornaments, pictures, bronzes, specimens of old porcelain, and other curiosities, to which the Chinese attach great value. But articles of food form the most extensive trade of all ; and it is sometimes a difficult matter to get through the streets, owing to the immense quantities of fish, pork, fruit, and vegetables, which crowd the stands in front of the shops. Dining-rooms, tea-houses, and bakers' shops, are met with at every step, from the poor man who carries around his kitchen or bakehouse, altogether hardly worth a dollar, to the most extensive tavern or tea-house, crowded with customers. For a few cash, a Chinese can dine upon rice, fish, vegetables, and tea ; nor does it matter much to him, whether his table is set in the streets or on the ground, in a house or on a deck, he makes himself merry with his chopsticks, and eats what is before him.* The buildings composing the Ching-hwang miau, and the grounds attached to this establishment, present a good instance of Chinese style and taste in architecture. Large warehouses for storing goods, ice-houses, granaries, and temples, are common ; but neither these, nor the public buildings, present any distinguishing features to attract notice. The remaining cities and districts of Kiangsu present nothing worthy of special remark. No towns of note occur on the Yellow river, when proceeding up its stream, before reaching Hwai-ngan fu, on its southern shore, six miles distant ; and this city, like Kaifung fu, in Honan, "is in imminent danger of being drowned, for the ground on which it stands is lower than the canal, which, in several places, is supported only by banks of earth." The island of Tsungming, at the mouth of the Yangtsz5 kiang, constitutes a single district. It is about sixty miles long, and six- * Fortune's Wanderings in China, page 120, PROVINCE OF NGANHWUI. 89 teen wide, containing over 900 square miles, and is supposed to have been gradually enlarged by the constant deposits from the river ; it is flat, but contains fresh water, and trenches are dug to assist in irrigation. It is highly cultivated and populous, though some places on the northern side are so impregnated with salt, and others so marshy, as to be useless for raising food. It possesses no harbor, nor any place of size besides the district town of the same name. During the examination and blockade of the river by H. B. M. ship Conway, in 1840, a foraging party landed on the southern shore of the island, and were attacked by the inhabitants, and loss sustained on both sides. Pt. Harvey is named after a midshipman who lost his life on this occasion.* The province of Nganhwui was so named by combining the first words in its two largest cities, Nganking fu and Hwuichau fu, and forms the south-western half of Kiangnan ; it is rather larger than Kiangsu, and less of its surface is covered with water. It lies north of Kiangsi, west of Kiangsu and Cheh kiang, and between them and Honan and Hupeh, on its west. Its productions and manufactures, the surface and high cultiva tion of the country, and character of the people, are very simi lar to those of Kiangsu, but the cities are less celebrated. The Great river passes through the south of Nganhwui from south-west to north-east ; several small tributaries flow into it on both banks, one of which connects with Chau hu, or Nest lake, in Luchau fu, the largest sheet of water in the province. The largest part of the province is drained by the river Hwai and its branches, which flow into Hungtsih lake ; and most of them are navigable quite across to Honan. There are several small lakes near the Yangtsz' kiang, and the southern part of the province is the most fertile and populous. The productions comprise every kind of grain, vegetables, and fruit known in the Plain ; most of the green tea districts lie in the south-eastern parts, particularly in the Sunglo range of hills in Hwuichau fu, but the shrub is cultivated in the whole province. Silk, cotton, and hemp are also extensively raised ; and gold, silver; and copper, and other metals, dug from the mines. The southern and western sections are agreeably diversified with ranges of low hills, one of which, north of Nest lake, forms the water-shed between the basin of the great rivers.• Chinese Repository, Vol. IX., p. 541 ; Vol. XL, p. 210. 90 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. The provincial capital, Nganking fu, lies on the northern shores of the Kiang. Davis describes the streets as very narrow, and the shops as unattractive ; the courts and gateways of many good dwelling-houses presented themselves as he passed along the streets. " The palace of the lieutenant-governor we first took for a temple, but were soon undeceived by the inscriptions on the huge lanterns at the gateway. These official residences seldom display any magnificence. The pride of a Chinese officer of rank consists in his power and station, and as the dis play of mere wealth attracts little respect, it is neglected more than in any country of the world. The best shops that we saw were for the sale of horn lanterns and porcelain. They possess the art of softening horn by the application of a very high degree of moist heat, and extending it into thin lamina of any shape. These lamps are about as transparent as ground-glass, and, when ornamented with silken hangings, have an elegant appear ance." The banks of the river, between Nanking and Nganking fu, a distance of 300 miles, are described by him as being well cul tivated, and containing towns and villages at short intervals. As the party advanced slowly up the river, " they found a climate and a country which could yield to none in the world, and equalled by very few. The landscape, consisting of the finest combination of hill and dale, with high mountains in the dis tance, was variegated at this time in the most beautiful manner, with the red and yellow tints of autumn." The travellers daily walked on shore, and everywhere found the country well culti vated, peaceful, and populous. Hwuichau fu, in the south-eastern part of the province, is celebrated for its excellent manufactures of ink and lackered- ware, which are sent to all parts of the empire. Fungyang fu (i. e. the Rising Phoenix), a town lying north-west of Nanking, on the river Hwai, was intended by Hungwu, the founder of the Ming dynasty, to have been the capital of the empire instead of Nanking, and was thus named in anticipation of its future splendor. The district town of Wuhu, in Taiping fu, about a hundred miles beyond Nanking, is said by Mr. Davis to be the largest of its class in China ; if so, its population cannot be much short of half a million. It stands on the south side of the river, near the PROVINCE OF KIANGSI. 91 junction of several streams coming in from the south, and its size and importance are owing to the extensive inland trade which centres here. The streets are large, and lined with shops well stocked with a great variety of goods, some of which had been brought overland from Canton, a distance of 600 miles.* The province of KiangsI (i. e. West of the River) lies south of Nganhwui and Hupeh, between Chehkiang and Fuhkien, on the east, and Hunan on the west, reaching from the Yangtsz' kiang to the Mei ling on the south. Its form is oblong, and its entire area is made up of the beautiful basin of the Kan kiang ; a spur of the Nan ling, running north, divides it on the west from Hunan and the basin of the Hang ho, while the eastern frontier is marked by the main ridge passing north-easterly through Fuh kien to the ocean. It is a little larger than all New England, about the size of Virginia, or twice that of Portugal, but, in population, vastly exceeds these countries. The surface of the country is rugged, and the character of the inhabitants partak»s in some respects of the roughness of their native hills. It is well watered and drained by the river Kan and its tributaries, most of which rise within the province ; the main trunk empties into the Poyang lake by numerous mouths, and the high level of that sheet of water renders the country around it swampy. For many miles on its eastern and southern banks extends an almost uninhabitable marsh, presenting to the voyager a most dreary appearance. The soil, generally, is productive, and large quan tities of rice, wheat, silk, cotton, indigo, tea, and sugar, are grown and exported. It shares, in some degree, the manufac tures of the neighboring provinces, especially in Nankeen cloth, vast quantities of which are woven here, but excels them all in the quality and amount of its porcelain. The mountains in the south and south-east produce camphor, varnish, oak, banian, fir, and other trees ; those on the west are well wooded, but much of the timber is unattainable by Chinese ingenuity. Nanchang fu, the provincial capital, lies near the southern shore of the Poyang lake ; the city walls are six miles in circuit, and accessible by water from all sides. It suffered, at the time of the Manchu conquest, by fire, but has since been rebuilt, * Davis's Sketches of China, Vol. IL, pp. 27, 42. Chinese Repository Vol. XL, p. 307. 92 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. though Davis noticed that considerable portions of the inclosure were still vacant. Barrow estimated that there were, indepen dent of innumerable small craft, 100,000 tons of shipping lying before the place. The banks of the Kan kiang, near the lake, are flat, and not highly cultivated, but the scenery becomes more varied and agreeable the further one ascends it ; towns and vil lages constantly come in sight, and the cultivation, though not universal, is more extended. As the voyager ascends the river, several large cities are passed, as Linkiang, Kih-ngan, Kanchau, and Nan-ngan, all capitals of departments, besides numerous towns and villages : so that if the extent of this river and the area of the valley it drains be considered, it will probably bear comparison with that of any valley in the world for populous- ness, amount and variety of productions, and diligence of cultiva tion. Beyond Kihngan fu are the Shihpah tan or Eighteen Rapids, which are torrents formed by ledges of rocks running across the river, but not of such height or roughness as to seriously obstruct the navigation except at low water. The shores in their vicinage are described as exceedingly beautiful : " The transparency of the stream, the bold rocks fringed with wood, and the varied forms of the mountains, call to mind those delightful streams that are dis charged from the lakes and north counties of England." The hilly banks are in many places covered with the Camellia oleifera, whose white blossoms give them the appearance of snow, when the plant is in flower. Kanchau fu is a place of great trade, where large boats are obliged to stop ; but Nan-ngan fu is at the head of navigation, about three hundred miles from the lake, where all goods for the south are debarked to be carried across the mountains. Within the department of Jauchau in Fauliang hien, east of Poyang lake, are the celebrated porcelain manufactories of Kingteh chin, named after an emperor of the Sung dynasty, in whose reign, a. d. 1004, they were established. This mart still supplies all the fine porcelain used in the country, and the small amount of fancy ware now exported to Europe and America. Upwards of a million of workmen are said to be employed ; the approach to the town is announced by the smoke, and at night it appears like a town on fire, or a -vast furnace emitting flames from numerous vents, there being, it is said, five hundred kilns PROVINCE OF CHEHKIANG. 93 constantly burning. Places called chin, as this one is, are com. mon in China ; the word means mart, and the town, whatever be its size, is not inclosed by walls ; Kingteh chin stands on the river Chang in a plain flanked by high mountains, about forty miles north-east from Jauchau, through which its ware is distri buted over the whole empire. Genius in China, as elsewhere, renders a place illustrious, and few spots are more celebrated among the Chinese than the vale of the White Deer in the Lii hills, near Nankang fu on the west side of the Poyang, where Chu Hi, the great disciple and com mentator of Confucius, lived and taught, in the 12th century. It is a secluded valley about seven miles from the city, situated in a nook by the side of a rivulet. The unpretending buildings are comprised in a number of different courts, evidently intended for use rather than show. In one of the halls, the White Deer is represented, and near by a tree is pointed out, said to have been planted by the philosopher's own hand. This spot is a place of pilgrimage to Chinese literati at the present day, for the writings of Chu are prized by them next to their classics. The beauty and sublimity of this region are lauded by Mr. Davis, and its praises are frequent themes for poetical celebration among native scholars.* The maritime province of Chehkiang, the smallest of the eighteen, lies eastward of Kiangsi and Nganhwui, and between Kiangsu and Fuhkien north and south, and derives its name from the river Cheh or Crooked, which runs across its southern part. Its area is about the same as Kentucky ; it lies in the southern portion of the Plain, and for fertility, numerous water courses, rich and populous cities, variety of productions, and excellence of manufactures, Js not at all inferior to the larger provinces. The Nan ling chain, under many local names, borders and ends near its southern frontier, and renders this part hilly and rough. The whole province produces cotton, silk, tea, rice, and other grains in abundance, and is regarded by the people as possessing within its limits every requisite for the food and clothing of its inhabitants, while the excellence of its manufactures insures it in exchange, a supply of the luxuries of other regions. The native topographical works upon this * Davis's Sketches, Vol. IL, page 55. 94 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. province are voluminous, and the maps correspond with those of the Jesuits, showing the source whence they were derived. The information obtained from the surveys of its islands and coasts, and the recent operations in its eastern parts by the English Expedition, have added largely to our previous know ledge. The rivers in Chehkiang, like those in Kiangsi, have their rise in the province ; and, as might be inferred from the position of the hills, their course is generally short and their currents rapid. Fourteen principal streams are enumerated, of which the Tsientang is the most important. It rises in the hills near Kiangsi, and flows about 150 miles north-easterly by Hangchau into the ocean near Chapu. The western branch of the river was ascended to its source by Macartney, as far as Changshan hien, from whence he crossed the hills into Kiangsi, by a very fine causeway of 24 miles, judiciously led through the defiles of the mountains. Some parts of the scenery along this river ex hibit the contrast of an extensive plain on one bank, richly and variously cultivated, while high mountains, " apparently higher than any in Great Britain," rise suddenly on the other. The other rivers empty into the ocean south of the Tsientang. The forest and fruit trees of Chehkiang comprise almost every valuable species known in the eastern provinces. The larch, camphor, tallow, banian, fir, dryandra, mulberry, varnish, and others, are common, and prove sources of wealth in their timber and products. The climate is one of the most salubrious; the grains, vegetables, and animals, including a long list of fishes, furnish food ; while its beautiful manufactures of silk are unri valled in the world, and have found their way to most parts of it. Besides silken goods, cotton and linen fabrics are woven ; lack- ered-ware, tea, crockery, paper, ink, and other articles, are also exported. The inhabitants of this province are. considered equal to those in the neighboring regions for wealth, learning, and refinements : with the exception of the hilly districts in the south bordering on Kiangsi and Fuhkien, where they are less civilized. In these parts, the cultivation of the mountain lands is interdicted, and a line of military posts, thirty-four in all, extends around them in the three provinces, in order to prevent the people from settling HANGCHAU FU IN CHEHKIANG. 95 in their limits ; though the interdiction does not forbid cutting the timber growing there.* Hangchau fu, the capital of the province, lies in the northern part, about two miles from the Tsientang, on a plain, and forty or fifty miles from the mouth of the river. The velocity of this stream indicates a rapid descent of the country from the hills which supply its headwaters ; the tide rises six or seven feet op posite the city, and nearly thirty at the mouth. Capt. Collinson of the English Expedition, when making some explorations of its mouth, in order to ascertain the practicability of an approach to Hangchau, found the tide to run 11£ knots an hour, and " although the steamer had an anchor down with a whole cable, having pre viously lost an anchor and cable when she endeavored to bring up, and was under her full power of steam with sails set, she was still driving." Only a moiety of the inhabitants reside within the walls of the city, the suburbs and the waters around them supporting a large population. A portion of the space within the walls is divided off for the accommodation of the Manchu garrison, which con sists of 7000 troops. The governor-general of Chehkiang and Fuhkien resides in this city, and also the governor of the pro vince, which, with their courts and troops, in addition to the great trade passing through, render it one of the most important and richest cities in the empire. The celebrated traveller Marco Polo, when he held the office of lieutenant-governor of Kiangnan, at the end of the thirteenth century, repeatedly visited Hangchau, and describes it as " pre-eminent above all other cities in the world in point of grandeur and beauty, as well as from its abundant delights, which might lead an inhabitant to imagine himself in paradise."' The Chinese have a proverb — Shang yu tien tang : Hia yu Su Hang — the purport of which is that Hang chau and Suchau are fully equal to paradise ; but the comparison of the Venetian traveller gives one a poorer idea of the Euro pean cities of his day, than it does of the magnificence of the Chinese to those who have seen them. The streets are well- paved, ornamented with numerous honorary tablets erected to the memory of distinguished individuals, and agreeably interrupting the passage through them. Travellers say that the shops and • Chinese Repository, Vol. IV., page 488. 96 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. warehouses in point of size, and stock of goods contained in them, might vie with the best in London. In its population, luxury, wealth, and influence, Hangchau rivals Suchau ; and, for excel lence of manufactures and beauty of position, probably exceeds it. This city was the metropolis of the country during the latter princes of the Sung dynasty, when the northern parts were under the Kin Tartars. It maintained its splendor during the sway of the Mongols, but began to decline when Hungwu made Nanking his capital. One cause of the celebrity of this city is found in the beauty of its environs, especially those near the West lake. Barrow ob serves that " the natural and artificial beauties of this lake far exceeded anything we had hitherto had an opportunity of peeing in China. The mountains surrounding it were lofty, and broken into a variety of forms that were highly picturesque ; and the valleys were richly clothed with trees of different kinds, among which three species were remarkably striking, not only by their intrinsic beauty, but also by the contrast they formed with them selves and the rest of the trees of the forest. These were the camphor and tallow trees, and the arbor vitae. The bright, shin ing green foliage of the first, mingled with the purple leaves of the second, and over-topped by the stately tree of life of the ' deepest green, produced a pleasing effect to the eye ; and the landscape was rendered still more interesting to the mind by the very singular and diversified appearance of several thousand repositories of the dead upon the sloping sides of the inferior hills. Here, as well as elsewhere, the sombre and upright cy press was destined to be the melancholy companion of the tombs. " Higher still, among the woods, avenues had been opened to admit of rows of small blue houses, exposed on white colonnades, which, on examination, were also found to be mansions of the dead. Naked coffins, of extraordinary thickness, were every where lying on the surface of the ground. The margins of the lake were studded with light aerial buildings, among which one of more solidity and greater extent than the rest was said to be long to the emperor. The grounds were inclosed with brick walls, and mostly planted with vegetables and fruit -trees; but hi some there appeared to be collections of such shrubs and flowers as are most esteemed in the country."* * Travels in China, page 522 ENVIRONS OF HANGCHAU. 97 Staunton speaks of the lake as a beautiful sheet of water, per fectly pellucid, full offish, in most places shallow, and ornamented with a great number of light and fanciful stone bridges, thrown across the arms of the lake as it runs up into the hills. A stone tower on the summit of a projecting headland attracted attention, from its presenting a different architecture from that usually seen in Chinese buildings. This tower, called the Lui Fung tah, or tower of the Thundering Winds, was four stories, and about one hundred and twenty feet high, and though ruined at the top, something like a regular. order was still discernible in the moul dering cornices that projected in a kind of double curve. An interesting corroboration of this account is given by Polo, who says, that all around the lake " are beautiful palaces and houses, so wonderfully built that nothing can possibly surpass them ; they belong to the great and noble men of the city. There are also abbeys and monasteries of idolaters in great num bers. In the middle of the lake are two islands, on one of which stands a palace, so wonderfully adorned that it seems worthy of belonging to the emperor." The barracks of the Manchu gar- ri#n are in the north-western part of the city, inclosed by a wall, separated, as is usually the case, from the rest of the inhabitants and city. The shape of the city is oblong, but the walls had fallen into decay when De Guignes was there. This traveller describes the shape of the tombs and mausolea in the environs of Hangchau, as differing from those elsewhere. One of an officer unjustly executed was the most remarkable. It was composed of two courts ; along the walls of the first were four bronze statues of his accusers, one of whom was a woman, on their knees, with their hands bound behind them. Beyond them are stone figures of three officers, a tiger, bull, and horse, placed in front of the doors leading to the second court, where are placed the sepulchres of the deceased officer and his son, built in a conical form. In a temple, called Ting-Uz' sz', not far from the city, the party of the Dutch embassy were well lodged, and attended by three hundred priests. The establish ment was in good repair, and besides two guardian monsters near the entrance more than thirty feet high, contained about five hundred images, with miniature pagodas of bronze, of beautiful workmanship. Hangchau is more known abroad for its manufactures of silk 6 98 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. than for any other fabrics, but its position at the termination of the canal may perhaps give the name of the city to many articles which are not actually made there. In the northern suburbs lies an irregular basin, forming the southern extreme of the canal ; but between the river Tsientang and this basin there is no com munication, so that all goods brought hither must be landed. The city contains, among other public buildings, a mosque, bear ing an inscription in Arabic, stating that it is a " temple for Mus- sulmen, when travelling, who wish to consult the Koran."* It is higher than the adjacent buildings, and adorned with a cupola, pierced with holes at short intervals. There are also several others in the city, it being the stronghold of Islamism in China. There is a water communication between Hangchau and Yiiyau, south-east through Shauhing fu, and thence to Ningpo, by which goods find their way to and from the capital. A good road also exists between the two former cities, and elsewhere in the pro vince the thoroughfares are passably good. Ningpo fu (Peaceful Wave city) is the most important city in Chehkiang, next to Hangchau, in consequence of its foreign rela tions. It is admirably situated for trade and influence, at Ihe junction of three streams, in lat. 29° 55' N., and long. 121° 22' E. ; the united river flows on to the ocean, eleven and a half miles distant, under the name of the Tatsieh, sometimes errone ously written Tahiah. Opposite the city itself, there are but two streams, but the southern branch again subdivides a few miles south-west of Ningpo. Its population has been variously esti mated from one-fourth to one-third of a million, and even more, including all the suburban and floating inhabitants. It is, more over, an ancient city, and its Annals afford very full information upon every point interesting to a Chinese antiquarian, though a foreigner soon tires of the many insignificant details mixed up with a few valuable statements. " The plain in which Ningpo lies is a magnificent amphithea tre, stretching away from twelve to eighteen miles on one side to the base of the distant hills, and on the other to the verge of the ocean. As the eye travels along, it catches many a pleasing object. Turn landward, it will see canals and water-courses, fields and snug farm-houses, smiling cottages, family residences, * Voyages a Peking, Vol. II., pages 65-77. SITUATION OF NINGPO. 99 hamlets and villages, family tombs, monasteries, and temples. Turn in the opposite direction, and you perceive a plain country descending towards the ocean ; but the river alive with all kinds of boats, and the banks studded with ice-houses, most of all attract the attention. From without the city, and while still upon the ramparts, look within its walls, you will be no less gratified. Here there is nothing European, little to remind you of what you have seen in the west. The single-storied and the double- storied houses, the heavy prison-like family mansions, the family vaults and graveyards, the glittering roofs of the temples, the dilapidated official residences, the deserted literary and examina tion halls, and the prominent sombre Tower of Ningpo, are en tirely Chinese. The attention is also arrested for a moment or two by ditches, canals, and reservoirs of water, with their wooden bridges and stone arches."* One serious drawback to a resi dence in so beautiful a place is the heat of summer and the bad quality of the drinking water. The circumference of the walls does not exceed five miles ; they are about twenty-five feet high, fifteen feet wide at the top, and twenty-two at the base, built solidly, though at present some what dilapidated, and overgrown with grass. The houses are not built upon or adjoining the wall, as in Canton, and a deep moat partly surrounds them ; it commences at the north-gate, and runs on the west, south, and south-east side as far as Bridge gate, a distance of nearly three miles, and in some places is forty yards wide. Its constant use as a thoroughfare for boats insures its repair and proper depth ; the other faces of the city are de fended by the river. There are six gates, besides two sally-ports near the south and west gates intended for the passage of the boats that ply on the city canals. On the east is Bridge gate, within which, and near the walls, the English factory was once situated. This gate leads out to the floating bridge which crosses the river ; this structure is two hundred yards long and five broad, made of planks firmly lashed, and laid upon sixteen lighters closely linked and chained toge ther, but which can be opened to allow passage to large boats plying up and down the river. A busy market is held on the bridge, and the visitor following the bustling crowd finds his way • Milne, in Chinese Repository, Vol. XIII., page 22. 100 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. to an extensive suburb on the opposite side. Ferry boats ply across both streams in great numbers, adding greatly to the viva city of the scene. The custom-house is situated beyond the bridge, and this eastern suburb contains several buildings of a religious and public character, lumber-yards, dock-yards, and rows of ice-houses, inviting the notice of the traveller. The environs beyond the north gate are not so thickly settled as those across the rivers ; and the well cultivated fields, divided and irri gated by numerous water courses, with scattered hamlets, be guile the visitor in his rambles, and lead him onward. There are numerous temples and monasteries in Ningpo, toge ther with a large variety of assembly-halls, governmental offices, and educational establishments, but none of these edifices are remarkable in an architectural point of view. The assembly- halls or club-houses, found in this as in all Chinese towns and cities, are numerous, and in their internal arrangements form a curious feature of native society. It is the practice among resi dents or merchants from other provinces, to subscribe and erect on the spot where they are engaged in business, a temple, dedi cated to the patron deity of their native province, in which a few priests are supported, and plays acted in its honor. Sometimes the building is put in charge of a layman, called a " master of ceremonies," and the current expenses defrayed by a voluntary subscription. These club-houses are places of resort for travel lers from the several provinces or districts, and answer, moreover, to European coffee-houses, in being points to hear news and prices from abroad. The streets are well paved, and interrupted here and there by honorary portals of considerable size and solidity, which also give variety to an otherwise dull succession of shops and sign boards, or dead walls. Two small lagoons afford space for some aquatic amusements to the citizens. One called Sun lake lies between Bridge gate and South gate, and is only a thousand yards in circuit ; the other, called Moon lake, is near the West gate, and three times its perimeter. Both are supplied by sluices passing through the gates of the city, while many canals are filled from them, which aid in irrigating the suburbs. Nume rous aqueducts, passing through the city, are also supplied from them, but their beauty and usefulness are much impaired by the filth thrown into their waters. Some of the pleasantest resi- POSITION OF CHINHAI. 101 dences occur on their banks. The government of the city is under a prefect, who also oversees the whole department. An intendant of circuit, superior to the prefect, has an office in Ningpo ; but the immediate superintendence of the city is in the hands of a district magistrate, the Kin hien, assisted by a police and military force. During the occupation of the city by the English in 1841-42, the governmental buildings were used as barracks for their troops, and some of them considerably defaced and injured. The prefect's residence is entered by a fine arched gateway, and the path up to it shaded with trees. The most striking building in Ningpo is the Tien-fung tah (i. e. Heaven-conferred pagoda), or Tower of Ningpo, a hexa gonal seven-storied building upwards of 160 feet high, which, according to the Annals of the city, was first erected 1100 years ago, though during that period it has been destroyed and rebuilt several times. According to this authority, the Tower was con structed before the city itself, and its preservation is considered as connected with the good luck of the place. The visitor mounts to the summit by a flight of narrow stone steps, ascending spirally within the walls. The most elegantly furnished building in the city lies on the water's edge outside the walls, between the East and Bridge gates ; it is a temple dedicated to the popular goddess Ma Tsupu, and was founded by Fuhkien men in the 12th century, but the present structure was erected in 1680, and largely endowed through the liberality of its patrons. Its walls are solid, its ornaments elaborate and rich, and its appearance on festival days, gay and animated in an unusual degree. The lanterns and scrolls hanging from the ceiling attract attention by the curious devices and beautiful characters written and drawn on them in bright colors, while the nakedness of the walls is con cealed by innumerable drawings. Chinhai is a district town at the mouth of the river, and is so situated by nature and fortified by art, that it completely com mands the passage. Its environs were the scene of a severe engagement between the Chinese and English in Oct. 1841, on which occasion great slaughter was committed upon the imperial troops. Chinhai is the place where merchant ships report when proceeding up the river, and between it and Ningpo, the scenery is diversified, and the water, as usual in China, presents a lively 102 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. scene. On its banks are numerous ice-houses constructed of thick stone walls twelve feet high, having a door on one side and a slope on the other for the removal and introduction of the ice, and protected by straw laid on it, and a thick thatched roof. It is used for preserving fish. The town lies at the foot of a hill on a tongue of land on the northern bank of the river, and is partly protected from the sea on the north by a dyke about three miles long, composed entirely of large blocks of hewn granite, and proving a good defence from the waves. Its walls are twenty feet high and three miles in circumference, but the suburbs extend along the water, attracted by, and for the convenience of, the shipping. The defences of the place consist of two batteries on the river side, and a well built citadel placed on a precipitous cliff two hundred and fifty feet high, at the end of the tongue on which the town is built. On the south side of the river, is a range of steep hills, overlooking the citadel and the city opposite. During the war, the Chinese did everything in their power to strengthen these heights, and defend the passage up the river, by establishing intrenched camps, and building lines of wall at every defensible point. The Chusan archipelago belongs to the department of Ningpo, and forms a single district of which Tinghai is the capital ; it is divided into thirty-four chwang or townships, whose officers are responsible to the district magistrate. The southern limit of the whole group is Quesan or Kiu shan islands, in lat. 29° 21' N., and long. 121° 10' E., consisting of eleven islets; the northernmost island is False Saddle island, lying in lat. 30° 50' N., and long. 122° 41/ E. The total number of islands in the archipelago is over a hundred. The town of Tinghai lies on the southern side of Chau shan or Boat island, the largest of them all, and which gives its name on foreign maps to the whole group. It is twenty miles long, from six to ten wide, and fifty-one and a half in cir cumference. The general aspect of this and the neighboring islands and coasts, is that of ridges of hills, steep, and occasionally running into peaks ; between these ridges in Chusan, are fertile and well watered valleys, most of which run to the sea, and contain a small stream in their bosoms. The mouths of these valleys have a dyke along the beach, which converts them into plains of greater or less extent, through which canals run, used both for irrigation and CHUSAN ARCHIPELAGO. 103 navigation. Rice and barley are the produce of the plains, and beans, yams, and sweet potatoes, &c, are grown on the sides of the hills ; every spot of arable soil being cultivated, and ter races constructed on most of the slopes. The view from the tops of the ridges, looking athwart them, or adown their valleys, or to seaward, is highly picturesque. The prevailing rocks on Chusan belong to the ancient volcanic class, comprising many varieties, but principally clay-stone, trachyte, and compact and porphyritic felspar. The former affords good material for building and paving, and is extensively quarried by the inhabitants. The geological character of the whole group is similar to that of this island.* The domestic animals reared are those used for food, as pigs, geese, ducks, and fowls ; the horned cattle are few in number, and employed in agriculture, but sheep and goats are seldom seen. Timber trees are scarce, a kind of fir being the common cover ing of the unfilled hills ; nor are fruit trees plentiful ; most of the wood used in domestic and naval architecture is brought from the mainland. The only roads are paved footpaths, and as there are no carriages or beasts of burden, every article, even the most weighty, is transported by men, — for the largest stream or canal on the island hardly allows a boat to ascend above the plain on the seaside. The population of Chusan, according to the census, is about 200,000 persons, and that of the whole group has been estimated at 300,000 ; Tinghai itself does not contain over 30,000 inhabitants. The district town of Tinghai lies in lat. 30° N., and long. 122° 5J' E., in the valley of Yungtung, half a mile from the beach ; it is connected with the shipping by a causey running from the gate to the suburb of Ta Tautau, where is the custom house and principal landing-place, and by two canals deep enough for boats. The city is of an irregular pentagonal shape, sur rounded by a solid wall nearly three miles in circuit, upon which are several small towers ; there are four gates, each sup ported by an outer gate and defences at right angles to the inner gate, and distant from it about twenty yards ; a canal thirty-three feet wide and three deep, nearly encircles them, and enters the town near the south gate. The streets are not more than twelve • Chinese Repository, Vol. X., pages 328, 426. 104 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. or fifteen feet wide, and are paved with granite. Sewers run underneath, and as the descent towards the canal is slight, they are seldom clean ; the offensive smell proceeding from them is a^o-ravated by the effluvia from the stagnant pools in the canal, and the large jars at the corners of the streets full of putrescent animal and vegetable filth, collected for manuring purposes. The houses are mostly built of wood, but all those of any pre tensions are constructed of brick. The plain of Tinghai is about 2£ miles from east to west, and the ridges of the hills which define it are from 450 to 650 feet high. The embankments along the beach throw the water back, so that the country is marshy, and impassable except by means of the raised foot-paths between the fields. This mode of irrigating rice-fields is common throughout China wherever the water courses will allow, and the ingenuity of the husbandman is often strikingly exhibited in the mode he economizes the water, and leads it from one plat to another. The suburb of Tautau runs along the beach, forming a long street, off which the shipping lies ; on the east end is a small hill surmounted by a temple. The harbor of Tinghai is one of the best on the coast, and accessible by three or four passages. The tides rise and fall 12J feet, but ordinarily 6 or 7 feet. The island of Chusan con tains eighteen of the twenty-four chwang, or townships, in the district, each of which is under the direction of constables, policemen, village elders, and assessors of taxes, who are respon sible to the district magistrate. There are three small towns along the shores of the island, of which Shinkia-mun, or Sinka- mong, on the south-east, is the 1 argest ; Chinkiang or Singkong, and Shau, are the others.* The other islands of the archipelago compose nineteen chwang, of which Luhwang and Silver islands form four. The island of Puto and a few smaller ones are independent of the jurisdiction of the magistrate of Tinghai, being ruled by the abbot of the head monastery. This establishment, and that on Golden island in the Yangtsz' kiang, are .among the richest and most exten sively patronized of all the monasteries belonging to the Budhists in China ; both of them have been largely favored by emperors at different periods. * Chinese Repository, Vol. X., pages 264, 328. PTTTO I. AND ITS TEMPLES. 105 The island of Puto has been repeatedly visited by foreigners during the last few years, and has become better known than Golden island. It is a narrow islet, 3£ miles long, and lies 1% miles from the eastern point of Chusan. Its surface is covered with sixty monasteries, pavilions, temples, and other buildings appropriated to religious uses, besides grottoes and other monu ments of superstition, in which at least 2000 idle priests chant the praises of their gods. One visitor describes his landing and ascending " a broad and well beaten pathway which led to the top of one of the hills, at every crag and turn of which we en countered a temple or a grotto, an inscription or an image, with here and there a garden tastefully laid out, and walks lined with aromatic shrubs, which diffused a grateful fragrance through the air. The prospect from these heights was extremely delightful ; numerous islands, far and near, bestudded the main, rocks and precipices above and below, here and there a mountain monas tery rearing its head, and in the valley the great temple, with its yellow tiles indicative of imperial distinction, basked like a basi lisk in the noonday-sun. All the aid that could be collected from nature and from Chinese art, were here concentrated to render the scene enchanting. But to the eye of the Christian philan thropist it presented a melancholy picture of moral and spiritual death. The only thing we heard out of the mouths of the priests was Ometo Fuh (i. e. Amida Budha) ; to every observation that was made, re-echoed Ometo Fuh ; and the reply to every inquiry was Ometo Fuh. Each priest was furnished with a rosary which he was constantly counting, and as he counted repeated the same senseless, monotonous exclamation. These characters met the eye at every turn of the road, at every corner of the temples, and on every scrap of paper ; on the bells, on the gate-ways, and on the walls, the same words presented themselves ; indeed the whole island seemed to be under the spell of this talismanic phrase, and devoted to recording and re-echoing Ometo Fuh."* From recent accounts, it seems that the pristine glory of these temples is dimmed, many of the buildings presenting marks of decay, and some of the priesthood being obliged to resort to honest labor to get a living. Deaths in their number are sup plied by purchasing youths, who are taught nothing but religious * China, its State and Prospects, page 393 6* 106 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. literature, a fit training to stunt their minds to pursue the dull mummery of singing Ometo Fuh. The two imperial temples present good specimens of Chinese architecture ; but they and all other things to be seen at Puto are dilapidated, effete, and it is to be hoped will soon vanish away, or be applied to better purposes. Temples were erected on this island as early as A. d. 550, and since it became a resort for priests it seems to have enjoyed the patronage of the government. The goddess of Mercy is said to have visited this island, and her image is the principal object of worship. No females are allowed to live on the island, nor any besides priests unless in their employ. The revenues are derived from the rent of the lands belonging to the temples, from the col lection of those priests who go on begging excursions to the main, and from the alms of pilgrims who resort to this agreeable spot, and who are well lodged and attended during their stay. It appears like one of the most beautiful spots on the earth when the traveller lands, just such a place as his imagination had pic tured as exclusively belonging to the sunny East, and so far as nature and art can combine, it is really so : but here the illusion ends. Idleness and ignorance, celibacy and idolatry, vice, dirt, and dilapidation, in the inmates or in their habitations, form a poor back-ground for the well dressed community, and gay, variegated prospect seen when stepping ashore. The other departments and districts in the province of Cheh kiang have not been much visited by foreigners. The district towns of Funghwa and Tsz'ki, lying westward of Ningpo, were the scenes of skirmishes between the English and Chinese in December, 1841, where large bodies of the imperialists were routed, and driven back upon Hangchau fu. The country lying along the banks of the two rivers leading from Ningpo up to these towns, is undulating and highly cultivated. A town of considerable importance in this province is Chapu in the depart ment of Kiahing ; it lies about fifty miles up the coast, north west from Chinhai, across Hangchau bay, and is connected with that city through a luxuriant plain by a well paved causeway about thirty miles long. Chapu is the port of Hangchau, and the only one in China whence trade is carried on with Japan. Its full name is Chapu chin, or the mart of Chapu, and it is one of the largest on the coast next to Shanghai and Tientsin. The CITIES OF CHAPU AND CANFU. 107 town lies at the bottom of a bay on the western face of the hills forming its eastern point, and at low tide. the mud runs off* a long way from the low land lying between these and some distant hills, whose tops are covered with buildings. The suburbs are situated near the western extremity of a small headland, which runs back four or five miles, and lines the beach on both sides, the central part being hilly ; the walled town stands about half a mile behind. It was attacked and much injured by the British forces in May, 1842, but abandoned immediately after the engagement. The walls were found in poor condition, but the Manchu garrison stationed here upheld their ancient reputation for bravery. This body of troops occupies a separate division of the city, and their cantonment is planned on the model of a camp. The outer defences of the city are numerous, but at the time of the attack, most of the old fortifications were found to be considerably decayed. The country in the vicinity is highly cul tivated, and more than usually adorned with well built houses, which extend more or loss to Hangchau.* South-west from Chapu lies the old town of Canfu, called Kanpu by the Chinese, which was once the port of Hangchau, but now deserted, from the stream running by it having become choked with sand. This place is mentioned in the voyages of two Arabian travellers in the ninth century, as the chief port of China, where all shipping centred. The narrow entrance be tween Buffalo island and Kitto point is probably the Gates of China mentioned by them ; and Marco Polo, in 1290, speaks of Ganpu, an extremely fine port twenty-five miles from Hangchau, frequented by all the ships that bring merchandise from India. Marsden erroneously supposes Canpu to be Ningpo.f If this was in fact the only port allowed to be opened for foreign trade, it shows that, even in the Tang dynasty, the same system of ex clusion was maintained that has so recently been broken up. Canfu was destroyed by insurrectionists, which catastrophe drove away the foreign trade from it to Canton, where it afterwards remained ; and what trade has since arisen, has gone to Chapu. The province of Fuhkien (i. e. Happily Established) is bounded on the north by Chehkiang, north-west and west by • Chinese Repository, Vol. XL, page 425 ; Vol. XII., page 248. ] Travels of Marco Polo, page 1S5. 108 THE MIDDLE K1NGDOIV1. Kiangsi, south-west by Kwangtung, and south and east by the chan nel of Formosa. Its northern and north-western borders are de- fined by the high range of the Nan ling, which render this part of the province, and also the adjacent districts of Kwangtung, very rugged. The line of seacoast is bold, arid bordered with a great number of islands, whose lofty granitic or trappean peaks extend in precipitous, barren headlands from Namoh as far as the Chusan archipelago. In the general features of its surface, the islands on its coasts, and its position with reference to the ocean, it resembles the region lying east of New Hampshire. The river Min is formed by the union of three large streams at Yenping fu ; it drains all the country lying east of the Wu-i hills, or about three-fourths of the province, and empties into the ocean by several mouths. It is more than three hundred miles long, and owing to its regular depth, is one of the most useful streams in China ; twenty-seven walled towns stand on its banks. The tide rises eighteen or twenty feet at the entrance, and this, with the many islands and reefs, renders the approach difficult in hazy or heavy weather. At Min-ngan hien, about fourteen miles from the mouth, the stream is contracted to less than half a mile for about three miles, the water being from twelve to twenty-five fathoms deep ; the hills on each side rise from fifteen hundred to two thousand feet, and are defended by forts aud batteries. One traveller speaks of the walls of these defences as affording a sort of stairs for the more convenient ascent of the hills on which they are situated. From the top, " the view embraces a beauti ful scene ; nothing can be more picturesque than the little plats of wheat and barley intermixing their yellow crops on the accli vities with bristling pines and arid rocks, and crowned with gar- don spots, or surrounded with rice fields and orchards of oranges. The valley of the Min, viewed from the summit of the fortress, is truly a beautiful sight."* The scenery on this river, though of a different character, will bear comparison with that of the Hudson for sublimity and beauty ; the hills are, however, much higher, and the country less fruitful, on the Min. The passage up to Fuhchau for large vessels is difficult, and . presents a serious obstacle in the way of the city ever becoming a place of commerce commensurate with its size and geographi- * Chine Ouverte, page 127. PROVINCE OF FUHKIEN. 109 cal advantages. Only one or two foreign merchants reside there, and not over a dozen merchantmen have as yet entered the port, three of which were American. From Fuhchau upwards, the river is partially obstructed with rocks and banks, rendering the navigation troublesome as far as Mintsing hien, about thirty miles above it, beyond which no foreign traveller has described it. Mr. Stevens says of this river, that " bold, high, and romantic hills give a uniform yet ever varying aspect to the country ; but it partakes so much of the mountainous character, that it may be truly said that beyond the capital we saw not one plain even of small extent. Every hill was covered with verdure from the base to the summit. The less rugged were laid out in terraces, rising above each other sometimes to the number of thirty or forty. On these the yellow barley and wheat were waving over our heads. Here and there a laborer, with a bundle of grain which he had reaped, was bringing it down on his shoulder to thrash out. Orange, lemon, and mulberry, or other trees, some times shaded a narrow strip along the banks, half concealing the cottages of the inhabitants."* Next in size to the river Min is the Lung kiang, or Dragon river, which flows by Changchau fu, and disembogues near Amoy, in the south-western part of the province ; it is about two hundred miles long. The number of islands along the coast of Fuhkien is great, but none of them are of large size. The first on the west, within the limits of the province, is Namoh or Nan-au, about thirteen miles long and three wide, well known as a principal dep&t for the sale of opium. Amoy and Quemoy are the largest islands of a group lying off the entrance of the Dragon river. Chimmo bay is north-east of Amoy, and is the entrance of the passage up to Chinchew, or Tsiuenchau fu, cele brated for the commercial enterprise of its inhabitants. Between this bay and the mouth of the Min, the Lamyit islands, Ockseu, and Haitan, are the largest ; off that river are the White Dog group, Ma-tsu shan and Changchi shan. Between this part and Chehkiang, only Tungyung, Pihsiang shan, Fuhyau, and Pih- kwan need be mentioned ; some of their peaks are 1500 to 1700 feet high. The harbors and creeks along their shores are infested with numerous fleets of pirates, which " sneak about * Chinese Repository, Vol. IV., page 92. 110 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. like rats," and prey upon the peaceful traders. Mr. Fortune had a narrow escape from them in a small junk, when going up the coast, but they seldom attack foreign vessels.* The grain raised in Fuhkien is hardly enough to support its population, especially on the sea-board, and large quantities of rice are brought from Siam, Formosa, and elsewhere. Black tea, camphorand other woods, sugar, chinaware, and grass-cloth, are the principal exports. The city of Fuhchau fu (i. e. Happy City), or Hokchiu hu, as it is called by the inhabitants, is situated in latitude 26° 5' north, and longitude 119° 20' east, on the northern side of the Min, thirty-four miles from its mouth, and nine from Pagoda island, where the ships anchor. The city lies in a plain, through which the river runs, about three miles from its banks ; this plain is surrounded by hills, forming a natural and most magnificent amphitheatre of vast dimensions, whose fertility quite equals its beauty. Suburbs extend from the walls three miles to the banks, and stretch along on both sides the stream. They are connected with each other, and a small islet in the river, by a stone bridge four hundred and twenty paces*long, reposing on forty solid stone piers on the northern side, and on nine similar ones on the south. The bridge is lined with shops. The scenery is bold, and such parts of the surrounding hills as are not cultivated or used for graves, are covered with pines ; some of the hills below the city are three thousand feet high. Opposite Fuhchau the land is lower, and the suburb is built upon an island formed by the division of the main channel, seven miles above the city ; the branches reunite again at Pagoda island. This island, and the plain pn each side, forms a large basin, about twenty miles long by fifteen wide. The islet, between the two parts of the bridge, again subdivides the channel opposite the city. The river is crowded with floating habitations, ferry-boats, and trading craft, rendering its surface an animated and noisy scene. Each boat is furnished with flower-pots, and the boatwomen wear natural flowers in their hair, which impart a pleasing aspect both to the boats and their inmates. Proceeding through the suburb of Nantai, by a single street, the visitor reaches the city. Its walls are about thirty feet high, * Wanderings in China, page 388. DESCRIPTION OF FUHCHAU FU. Ill and twelve wide at the top, and overgrown with grass. The gates are seven in number, and overlooked by high towers ; smaller guard-houses stand upon the walls at short intervals, in which a few soldiers lodge, and where two or three cannon indi cate their object. The city is divided into wards and neighbor hoods, each of which is under its own police and headmen, who are responsible for the peace of their respective districts. The British Consulate is situated south of the city, on the Wu-shih shan, or Black-stone hills, in a beautifully wooded spot, elevated about two hundred and fifty feet above the plain, where many temples and pavilions have been built. Some of these the priests leased out to the British consul, themselves assisting to remove the images and make the necessary alterations. From this eminence the view is extensive, and presents a great diversity of pleasing objects. The square battlements of the wall are seen extending in a devious and irregular circuit for more than eight miles, and inclosing most of the buildings, except on the south. On the south-east, a hill rises abruptly more than two hundred feet, its sides built up with interspersed dwellings ; and another on the extreme north of the city, surmounted by a watch-tower, closes the prospect in that direction. Two pagodas within, and fantastic looking watch-towers upon the walls, large, regular built granaries, and a great number of flag-staffs in pairs before temples and offices, contribute to relieve the otherwise dull monotony of low tiled roofs, which is still -further diversified by many large trees. Several lookout houses are placed over the streets, or upon the roofs of buildings, for the accommodation of watchmen, one of which immediately attracts the attention of the visitor, from its height, and its clock-dial with Roman letters. Few vacant spaces occur within the walls of the city, which is everywhere equally well built. Serpentine canals divide the country around into plats of greater or less extent, of every form and hue, and help to drain the city as well as provide channels for boats to come up from the river. These parts of the landscape are dotted with hamlets and cottages, or, where the ground is higher, with graves and tombstones. To one seated on this eminence, the confused hum of mingling cries ascending up from the town below, — the beating of gongs, crack ling of fireworks, reports of guns, vociferous cries of hucksters and coolies, combining with the barking of dogs and other domes- 112 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. tic sounds, as well as those from the crows, fish-hawks, and mag pies nearer by, — inform him in the liveliest manner that the beautiful panorama he is looking down upon is filled with teeming multitudes in all the tide of life. Their moral condition and ignorance, also, suggest melancholy reflections to the Christian spectator, and prompt the wish, that they may be speedily en lightened by the gospel of truth and purity. On the western side of the city is a sheet of water, called Si hu, or West lake, with a series of unpretending buildings and temples lying along its margin, a bridge crossing its expanse, and fishing-nets and boats floating upon its bosom. The watch-tower, on the hill in the northern part of the city, is upon the wall, which here runs near a precipice two hundred feet high ; it is the most conspicuous object when approaching the place. The Manchus occupy the eastern side of the city, which, as usual, is walled off. They number altogether about 8,000 per sons, and the natives generally are not allowed to enter their precincts. They live under their own officers, in much the same style as the Chinese, and, not having any regular occupation, give no little trouble to the provincial authorities. The number of temples and well built private residences in Fuhchau is much less than in Ningpo, and as a whole it is a poorer built city. The streets are full of abominations, for which the people seem to care very little. The shops are well stored with goods, but for the most part of a poor quality. Paper money is issued by the leading mercantile firms in the city, varying in value from forty cents to a thousand dollars, and supplying all the advantages with few of the dangers of bank notes. The blue, red. and black colors, which are blended together on these promissory bills, pre sent a gay appearance of signatures and endorsings. The name of the issuing house, and a number of characters traced around the page, in bright blue ink, form the original impression. The date of issue, and some ingeniously wrought cyphers, for the reception of signatures and prevention of forgeries, are of a deep red ; while the entry of the sum, and names of the partners and receiver, stand forth in large black characters. On the back are the endorsements of various individuals, through whose hands the bill has passed, in order to facilitate the detection of forgeries, but not rendering them at all liable.* The streets are crowded * Smith's China, page 364. ITS BUILDINGS AND INHABITANTS. 113 with craftsmen and hucksters, in the usual style of Chinese towns, where the shopmen, in their desire to attract custom, seem to imagine, that the more they get in their customers' way, the more likely they are to sell them something. The shops are thrown open so widely, and display such a variety of articles, or expose the workmen so plainly, that the whole street seems to be rather the stalls of a market, or the aisle in a manufactory, than the thoroughfare of a town. The official residences are numerous, the chief civil and mili tary dignitaries of the province residing here, besides the prefect and the two magistrates of Min and Haukwan districts. Their establishments, however, are neither better built, nor more ele gantly furnished than those of the better class of shopmen, while most of the out-buildings are dirty, and ill-fitted for living in. The Ching-hwang miau is one of the largest religious edifices in the place, and the temples of the goddess of Mercy, and god of War, the most frequented. The Km Sien shan, or hill of the Nine Genii, on the southern side of the town, is a pretty object. The city wall runs over it, and on its sides little houses are built on the rocky steps ; numerous inscriptions are carved in the face of the rocks. ' Near the eastern gate, called Tang mun, or Bath gate, there is a small suburb, where the Chinese and Manchus live together, and where are numerous public hot baths, the waters of which proceed from springs near by. Four or five wells, each six feet across, and four deep, are filled with the water, and for two cash any one may bathe ; they are much fre quented, and the accommodation is so inadequate that the bathers are obliged to pack themselves into the reservoirs as closely as possible. The citizens of Fuhchau bear the character of a reserved, gloomy, turbulent people, very unlike the polite, affable natives further north. Their dialect is harsh and guttural, contrasting strongly with the nasal tones of the patois of Amoy, and the mel lifluous sounds heard at Ningpo. There are few manufactures of importance in the city, and its commerce and resources are sensibly declining, under the drain of the precious metals, and other sad results of the traffic and use of opium. More culprits wearing the cangue are to be seen in the streets than at the other ports, and in passing along the way none of the hilarious merri ment which is heard elsewhere greets the ear. There is also a 114 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. general lack of courtesy in passing by each other quite unusual in China, no one seeming to mind whether he runs against another or not. Beggars of the most loathsome aspect crowd the tho roughfares, showing both the poverty and the callousness of the inhabitants. One half the population is supposed to be addicted to the opium pipe, and annually expend two millions of dollars for this noxious gratification. The population of Fuhchau and its suburbs is reckoned, by those who have visited the place, at rather over than under 600,000 souls. The island in the river is densely settled by a trading popula tion of 20,000, a great part of whom consist of sailors and boat men. The country women, who bring vegetables and poultry to market in the suburbs, are a robust race, and contrast strikingly with the sickly-looking, little-footed ladies of the city. Fishing- boats are numerous in the river, many of which are furnished with cormorants, trained to assist their masters in procuring fish. The neighboring villages are entirely agricultural ; but neither they nor the district towns in the department, present any points of interest. Min-ngan is the only town on the river below Fuh chau of any consideration.* Amoy or Hiamun (i. e. the Gate or Harbor of Hia) is the most important and best known port in the province, and 150 years ago the seat of a large foreign commerce. It is a mart in the district of Tung-ngan, belonging to the department of Tsiuen- chau, situated in lat. 24° 40' N., and long. 118° 20' E., upon the south-western corner of the island of Amoy, at the mouth of the Dragon river leading up to Changchau fu. The island itself is about forty miles in circumference, and contains scores of large villages besides the city. The scenery within the bay is picturesque, caused partly by the numerous islands which define it, some of them surmounted by pagodas or temples, and partly by the high barren bills behind the city, and the bustling crowds of vessels in the harbor before it. There is an outer and inner city, as one .approaches it seaward — or more properly a citadel and a city — divided by a high ridge of rocky hills having a forti fied wall running along the top. A paved road connects the two, which is concealed from the view of the beholder as he comes in from sea by the ridge, until he has entered the Inner harbor. * Chinese Repository, Vol. XV., pages 185, 225. HARBORS AND CITY OF AMOY. 115 The entire circuit of the city and suburbs is about eight miles, containing a population of 300,000, while that of the island is estimated at 100,000 more. Amoy is further divided by the Inner harbor, which extends in front, and joins a large estuary running up some distance into the island, and skirting the northern side of the city. Thus it, in fact, lies upon a tongue of land, having only one-third of its circuit defended by walls, and these are overlooked by the hills in its rear. These hills contain some ancient tombs and sepulchres of great solidity, part of them being excavated out of the rocks and ornamented with inscriptions and epitaphs ; — a mode of interment by no means common in China, nor even here used at present. Few cities are more favorably situated for ac cess than Amoy, but its water communication with the interior is not equal to those of the other four ports. The two rivers which disembogue into the bay are small, the one leading north east to Tung-ngan hien is sometimes almost dry at low tide, even within three miles of the town. The harbor of Amoy is one of the best on the coast ; there is good holding ground in the Outer harbor, and vessels can anchor in the Inner, within a short distance of the beach, and be perfectly secure ; the tide rises and falls from fourteen to sixteen feet. The western side of the harbor, here from six hundred and seventy-five to eight hundred and forty yards wide, is formed by the island of Kulang su ; the batteries on this island completely command the city. It is about a mile long and two and three-quarters around, and maintains a rural population of 3500 people, scattered among four or five hamlets. This island was occupied by the English troops after the capture of the city in September, 1841, until it was restored to the Chi nese in December, 1845. Eastward of Amoy is the island of Quemoy or Kinmun (i. e. Golden harbor), presenting a striking contrast in the low, rice grounds on its south-west shore, to the high land on Amoy ; its population is much less than that of Amoy. The country in this part of Fuhkien is thickly settled and highly cultivated. Mr. Abeel, describing a trip towards Tung-ngan, says, " For a few miles up, the hills wore the same rugged, barren aspect which is so common on the southern coast of China, but fertility and cultivation grew upon us as we advanced ; the 116 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. mountains on the east became hills, and these were adorned with fields. The villages were numerous at intervals ; many of them were indicated in the distance by large groves of trees, but gene rally the landscape looked naked. Well-sweeps were scattered over the cultivated hills, affording evidence of the need and the means of irrigation."* Within the district of Nganki, east of Tsiuenchau fu, lie the hills where the Ankoi teas are grown, a class of black teas of peculiar taste. These hills were visited in 1836 by a party of foreigners, and found to be well culti vated. In the other direction towards Changchau fu, the traveller, be yond Pagoda island, enters an oval bay ten or twelve miles long, bounded by numerous plains rising in the distance into steep barren mountains, and upon which numerous villages are found ; twenty-three were counted at once by Mr. Abeel, and the boat men said that all could not be seen. About fifteen miles west of Amoy is the entrance of the river ; on its banks are several large towns, and " villages uncounted " are to be seen in every direction. Changchau fu lies about thirty-five miles from Amoy, and is described as well built, the streets paved with granite, some of them twelve feet wide, and as usual intolerably offen sive. A bridge, about eight hundred feet long, spans the river, consisting of beams stretching from one abutment to another, covered with cross pieces. From the top of the hills behind a temple at the north-western corner of the city, the prospect is charming. " Imagine an amphitheatre," says Mr. Lowrie, " thirty miles in length and twenty in breadth, hemmed in on all sides by bare pointed hills, a river running through it, an immense city at our feet, with fields of rice and sugar-cane, noble trees and numerous villages stretching away in every direction. It was grand and beautiful beyond every conception we had ever formed of Chi nese scenery. Beneath us lay the city, its shape nearly square, curving a little on the river's banks, closely built, and having an amazing number of very large trees within and around. The guide said that in the last dynasty it had numbered 700,000 inhabitants, and now he thought it contained a million — probably a large allowance. The villages around also attracted our atten- * Chinese Repository, Vol. XL, page 506. POSITION OF CHANGCHAU FU. 117 tion. I tried to enumerate them, but after counting thirty-nine of large size distinctly visible in less than half the field before us, I gave over the attempt. It is certainly within the mark to say that within the circuit of this immense plain there are at least one hundred villages, some of them small, but many num bering hundreds and even thousands of inhabitants."* Changchau was again visited in 1846 by Rev. Mr. Pohlman and Isidore Hedde, who were received with civility by the author ities, and with great cordiality by the citizens. M. Hedde's object was to examine the silk-dyeing, and other manufactures of the place, and he received the permission of the officers to do so ; Mr. Pohlman improved the opportunity to make the acquaintance of the people, and distribute Christian books among them. A town on the river, called Shihma or Chiohbe, is a place of some trade, extending a mile along the shore, and larger than Haitang hien, a district town between it and Amoy. Large numbers of people dwell in boats on this river near the towns, rendering a voyage up its channel somewhat like going through a street, for the bustle and noise. The cities in the interior of the province have not been often visited by foreigners. The department of Hinghwa, situate on the coast between Tsiuenchau and Fuhchau, is described as exceed ingly populous ; the horrid crime of female infanticide is, so far is now known, more prevalent from the borders of Kwangtung to the river Min than in any other part of China. It is said that at Yenping fu on the Min river, the people speak the dialect of Nanking, which is so unlike the local patois as to lead to the inference that it was settled by a colony from that region. Much of the tea and camphor produced on the Wu-i hills in the west ern part of the province is carried over the frontier through Kiangsi to the Kan kiang, and thence to Canton. f The island of Formosa and the group called the Pescadore islands, lying between it and Amoy, together form a department of this province. The limits of Chinese jurisdiction on Formosa, according to native maps, extend over half the island, reaching no further east than the Muh kan shan, a ridge of mountains running through the middle of the island. The island is called * Chinese Repository, Vol. XIL, page 530. t Ibid., Vol. XL, page 651. 118 THE MIDDLE KINGDOBI. Taiwan (i. e. Terrace Beach) by the Chinese, but this name is applied more accurately only to the department, and not to it as an island ; the Chinese portion is about 250 miles long, and 80 broad, inclosing an urea of from 12 to 15,000 square miles. The population is perhaps 2,500,000 ; the prisoners captured from the British ship Ann, in 1842, represent that part of the island which they passed through as being well cultivated. It is fertile, possesses a salubrious climate, and is well watered, in every respect meriting the name of Formosa. The rice trade alone between it and the maritime provinces employs about three hundred vessels ; other products give rise to a large trade, of which camphor, salt, sulphur, maize, fruits, and timber are the principal. The city of Taiwan lies in the south-western part, and is described as a large place. The western coast presents no har bors, and vessels lie a long distance off the shore, exposed to great inconveniences when lading. Kilung at its northern extremity is the only good port, but on the eastern shore Benyowsky found several secure harbors. Some of the aboriginal inhabitants have been driven or have removed east of the mountains, but most of them have become partly incorporated with the Chinese settlers, or live in villages of their own, under the general supervision of Chinese officers. A still greater proportion of the aborigines pay no allegiance to the Chinese, and many of their villages are still found west of the mountains. They are divided into numerous clans or tribes, like the North American Indians, and strifes among themselves prevent all systematic opposition to the en croachments of the Chinese. So far as is known these aborigines have no written language, and no other religion than the respect paid to sorcerers and demons ; the Chinese represent them as being free from theft and deception, and just in their mutual dealings, but revengeful when provoked. They are of a slender shape, olive complexion, wear long hair, and blacken their teeth ; some suppose them to be of Malayan or Polynesian origin, though further investigation will probably show that they are allied to the Lewchowans. The Chinese had no knowledge of Formosa until a. d. 1403, and their sway was not established over it until 1683. It has always been a misgoverned, turbulent region, owing to a variety of causes, among which no doubt the intermix ture of the half civilized natives with the restless Fuhkienese, FORMOSA AND PESCADORE ISLANDS. 119 and their insubordination developed by the extortion and cruelty of the imperial officers, are the principal ; a great emigration is constantly going on from the main, and lands are taken up by capitalists, who not only encourage the people to go over, but actually purchase large numbers of poor people to occupy their lands.* About twenty-five miles west of Formosa, and attached to Taiwan fu, is the district of Pdnghu ting or Pescadore islands, consisting of a group of twenty-one inhabited islets, the largest of which, called Panghu, is eighty-four miles in circumference; none of them rise three hundred feet above the sea. The two largest are situated near the centre of the cluster, and have an excellent harbor between them. The want of trees, and the absence of sheltered valleys, give these islands a barren appear ance. Millet, ground-nuts, pine-apples, sweet potatoes, and vege tables are grown, but for most of their supplies they depend upon Formosa. The population of the group is estimated at 8000, of whom a large part are fishermen. The Dutch seized these islands in 1622, but removed to Formosa two years after at the instance of the governor of Fuhkien, since which time they have hardly been visited by foreigners, until they were surveyed by Capt. Collinson in 1845. * Chinese Repository, Vol. IL, page 408; Vol. V., page 480. CHAPTER III. Geographical Description of the Western Provinces. The central provinces of Hupeh and Hunan formerly constituted a single one under the name of Hukwang (i. e. Broad Lakes), and they are still commonly known by this appellation. Hupeh (i. e. North of the Lakes) is the smallest of the two, but contains the most arable land. It is bounded north by Honan, east by Nganhwui and Kiangsi, south by Hunan, and west by Sz'chuen and Shensi. Its area is about 70,000 square miles, or equal to New England and New Jersey united. The Great river flows through the south of the province, where it connects with all the lakes on both its shores, and nearly doubles its volume of water. The Han kiang, or Han shwui, is its largest tributary on the north. This river rises in the south-west of Shensi, between the Peh ling and Tapa ling, and drains the south of that province and nearly the whole of Hupeh, and joins the Yangtsz' kiang at Wuchang fu, after a course of more than five hundred miles. The area of its basin cannot be far from a hundred thousand square miles. The south-eastern part of Hupeh is occupied by an extensive depression filled with a succession of lakes. The length and breadth of this plain are not far from two hundred miles, and it is considered the most fertile part of China, not being subject to overflows like the shores of the Yellow river, while the descent of the land allows its abundance of water to be readily distributed. Every spot is cultivat.nl, and the surplus of productions is easily transported wherever there is a demand. The Ax lake, Millet lake, Red Horse lake, and Mienyang lake, are the largest in the province. The remaining parts of both the Lake provinces are hilly and mountainous ; the high range of the Tapa ling lies on the west of Hupeh, and separates the basins of the Great river and its tributary, the Han kiang, from each other, some of its peaks rising to the snow line. The productions of PROVINCE. OF HUPEH. 121 Hupeh are bread-stuffs, silk, cotton, tea, fish, and timber; its manufactures are paper, wax, and cloth. The climate is tern- pgrate and healthy. The capital of Hupeh, Wuchang fu, lies on the Yangtsz' kiang, where the river Han joins it, and opposite to Hanyang fu. These two cities, together with the suburb of Hankau, below the latter, probably present, in addition to the shipping before them, one of the largest assemblages of houses and vessels, inhabitants and sailors, to be found anyw-here in the world ; London and Yedo alone can compete with it. A fire broke out in Hankau in 1833, which burned seven days, destroying a great amount of merchandise with the wooden dwellings. The number of vessels of the largest size exceeds ten thousand, while the multitude of small craft and ferry-boats moving about is much greater. The Yangtsz' kiang, nearly five hundred miles from the sea, is here a league broad, with depth sufficient for the largest ships. A traveller thus speaks of the approach to Wuchang fu : " The night had already closed in when we reached the place where the river is entirely covered with vessels, of all sizes and forms, con gregated here from all parts. I hardly think there is another port in the world so frequented as this, which passes, too, us among the most commercial in the empire. We entered one of the open ways, a sort of a street having each side defined by floating shops, and after four hours toilsome navigation through this difficult labyrinth, arrived at the place of debarkation." Pie further remarks, that " for the space of five leagues, one can only see houses along the shore, and an infinitude of beautiful and strange looking vessels in the river, some at anchor and others passing up and down at all hours."* The coup d'oeil of these three cities is beautiful, their environs being highly cultivated and interspersed with the mansions of the great ; but he adds, " If you draw near, you will find on the margin of the river only a shapeless bank worn away with freshes, and in the streets stalls surmounted with palisades, and workshops undermined by the waters or tumbling to pieces from age. The open spots between these ruins are filled with abominations which diffuse around a suffocating odor. No regulations respecting the location of the dwellings, no side- * Annales de la Propagation de la Foi, 1845, tome XVII., pages 287, 290. 7 122 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. walks, no place to avoid the crowd which presses upon one, elbowing and disputing the passage, but all get along pell-mell in the midst of cattle, hogs, and other domestic animals, each protecting himself as he best can from the filth in his way, which the Chinese collect with care for agricultural uses, and carry along in little open buckets through the crowd." These cities are obnoxious to freshes, and are occasionally injured by the rise of the waters, their advantageous position being thus also the source of their greatest danger. Among tbe other cities in this province is Kinchau fu, one of the most important from its position upon the Yangtsz' kiang, where it enters the lake country ; a large garrison is maintained here. Siangyang fu on the river Han is celebrated in ancient Chinese history. The province of Hunan (i. e. South o'f the Lakes)ris bounded north by Hupeh, east by Kiangsi, south by Kwangtung and Kwangsi, and west by Kweichau. The surface of the country is much more hilly than Hupeh, rising into mountains on the south, where a hardy, sparse population find their subsistence. Tungting hu, the largest lake in China, lies in the north; the country around it is extremely fertile, yielding two crops annu ally. Three large streams, which take their rise in the Nan ling, pour their waters into it ; these are the Siang, which drains the eastern part of the province, the Tsz' and the Yuen, which communicate with the districts bordering on Kweichau.* They drain a country equal in area to Great Britain, and through the Tungting hu, convey its produce to all parts of the land ; few provinces, therefore, exceed this in facilities for internal naviga tion. The productions of Hunan are such as an agricultural country furnishes, rice being the principal grain. The moun tains produce pine, cassja, and other timber, which are floated down in rafts to the Great river; malachite, iron, lead, and coal, are also obtained from their bowels. The capital, Changsha fu, lies in the north-east on the river Siang, and every prefecture in the province is accessible by water from it through the lake. Yohchau fu, on the eastern side of the lake at the junction with this river, is the thoroughfare for * The Siang is called the Heiig kiang, and the Tsz' bears the name of to kiang, in Du Halde, but the names here given are those inserted in Chinese maps. PROVINCES OF HUNAN AND SHENSi. 123 all goods passing up and down the Kiang. The surface of this and other lakes is enlivened by fishing-boats of various forms, some of them carrying cormorants ; by large rafts, carrying houses upon them, in which numerous families find a home ; and by odd shaped vessels transporting passengers and merchandise in. different directions. Pirates infest both the lakes and streams, who do not confine themselves to depredations upon the water, but land and levy black-mail upon the villages. The city of Changsha is said to have been the place where the festival of Dragon Boats originated. In the south-western part of the pro vince aboriginal hill-tribes exist, who not seldom prove a source of trouble to the imperial government. An insurrection broke out in that region and Kwangtung, in 1832, which caused the governors of the two provinces great trouble to quell, and cost the governor-general of Kwangtung his office. The province of Shensi (i. e. Western Defiles) is bounded north by Inner Mongolia, from which the Great Wall divides it, east by Shansi and Honan, south-east by Hupeh, south by Sz'chuen, and west by Kansuh. Its area is not far from 70,000 square miles. Shensi is a hilly region, diversified by many well watered tracts, and subsisting a hardy and industrious population. On the north, the Great Wall separates it from the country of the Ortous Mongols. The road leading from Shansi to Kansuh, through Shensi, and that going south into Sz'chuen, are among the most expensive works of the kind in China. The mountains in this province form part of the Peh ling range, running across its southern districts, and dividing the two basins of the Yellow and Great rivers. North of the Wei ho, the whole country gradually declines to the eastward, and although hilly does not rise into any high peaks. The rivers north of the Wei all run south-east into the Yellow river ; some of them are over 350 miles long, taking their rise in Kansuh, but their channels are, in many places unnaviga- ble on account of rapids and falls ; the Loh and Wu-ting are Ihe largest. The Wei ho is the most considerable of all its afflu ents, and joins it at the place where it enters the Plain. This spot is well known in Chinese history as the Tungkwan pass, the rivers bursting through high cliffs in Shansi on the north-east and on the south. The basin of the Wei ho is equally fertile 124 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. and populous with the other great internal basins in China ; the course of the river itself is not short of 400 miles, and its basin probably comprises an area of 60,000 sq. m. This region is the most ancient part of China, and Si-ngan fu was the metropolis for many centuries. Gold mines occur in Shensi, and gold is collected in some of the streams ; other metals also are worked. The climate is too cold for rice and silk ; wheat, millet, and cotton supply their places ; rhubarb, musk, wax, red-lead, coal, and nephrite are exported. Wild animals still inhabit the northern parts, and the number of horses, sheep, goats, and cattle raised for food and service is large, compared with the eastern provinces. The capital, Singan fu, is renowned as the metropolis of the empire in the Tang dynasty, and is still much the largest city in this part of the country, containing some remains of -its former grandeur, though from its position on the river Wei it could not become a commercial emporium like Nanking or Hangchau. This city is somewhat celebrated abroad as the place where an ancient monument of the Nestorian missionaries in China was discovered. The governor-general of this and the adjoining pro vince resides here, having under his control a large body of troops. There are some other towns of note in this province, of which Hanchung fu in the west, on the Han river, where the great road from Singan fu strikes that stream, is the largest. The city of Ytilin fu is the station of a force to overrule the Mon gols beyond the Great Wall, and receive the peltry brought in from that region. The immense province of Kansuh (i. e. Voluntary Re verence) formerly belonged to Shensi, and extended no further west than the pass called Kiayii kwan in the Great Wall near Suh chau, but since the division, its limits have been extended across the desert of Gobi to the confines of Songaria on the north-west, and to the borders of Tibet on the west. Its name is formed by joining the names of two large towns, Kanchau fu and Suh chau. It is bounded north and north-east by Gobi and the country of the Mongols, east by Shensi, south by Sz'chuen, south-west by Koko-nor and the desert, and north-west by Cobdo and fli. It's entire area cannot be much under 400,000 sq. m., the greater part of which is a howling desert ; it extends across PROVINCES OF KANSUH AND SZ CHUEN. 125 twelve degrees of latitude and twenty-one degrees of longitude, and comprises a large part of the ancient kingdom of Tangut. The country is mountainous, some of the peaks rising over 10,000 feet ; the principal chain is a spur from the Peh ling, called Lung mountains on some maps, which running north easterly bounds the valley of the Yellow river on its east, and forces its waters northward ; hSalso forms the east water-shed of the Wei and other tributaries of the Yellow river in Shensi. The Yellow river flows through the province in a north-east direction, and receives a few large affluents in its course, as the Ta-tung ho and Chau ho, both of which join it near Lanchau fu. Near the termination of the Great Wall, a range of hills called Ki-lien shan, forms the water-shed between the valley of the Ta-tung and a number of small rivers which flow northward into the desert. The climate of Kansuh is colder than Shensi, and its inhabit ants make much use of skins and furs in their clothing. The country east of the Yellow river is fertile, and produces wheat, barley, millet, and other edible plants. Wild animals are fre quent, whose chase affords both food and peltry ; large flocks and herds are also maintained by Tartars living within the province. The mountains produce metals and minerals, among which are copper, almagatholite, jade, gold, and silver. The capital of the province is Lanchau fu, which lies on the south side of the Yel low river, where it turns north-east ; the valley is narrow, and defended on the west by a pass, through which the road goes westward. At Si-ning fu, about two hundred miles east of Tsing hai, the superintendent of Koko-nor resides ;. its political import ance has largely increased its trade within the last few years. Ninghia fu in the north-east of the province is the largest town on the borders of the desert. The pass called Kiayii kwan is gradually rising in importance from its being the first settlement when coming in from the desert ; duties are levied here, and a garrison maintained. West of this pass lie the towns of Barkoul, Hami, Turfan, and Oroumtsi, with other settlements, and ruled partly by Chinese officers, and partly by the chieftains of the various tribes. Oroumtsi is more than two thousand miles from Peking, and the communication between them is constant. The province of Sz'chuen (i. e. Four Streams) is the largest of the eighteen, being double the size of most of them ; it is 126 * THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. bounded north by Kansuh and Shensi, east by Hupeh, south by Kweichau and Yunnan, and west by Tibet, and north-west by Koko-nor. Its area equals all the Eastern and Middle States ex- eluding Maryland. Its topography partakes of that of the adjoin ing provinces, rugged and full of defiles ; the Yun ling stretches across its western side, and sends off branches to the south and north-east. There is one plain of considerable extent around the capital, and the bottoms of the Yangtsz' kiang and its tributaries are level and well cultivated. The Yangtsz' kiang flows along a crooked channel in a north-easterly course through the south eastern part of the province, receiving some of its largest tribu taries. The Yahlung in the west, the Min in the centre, and the Kialing near Hupeh, are its chief affluents in Sz'chuen. The first is about six hundred miles long, and serves but little for navigation compared with its length. The Min kiang is more useful, and affords passage for boats up to Chingtu fu, if not be yond ; the city of Suchau stands at the junction. The Kialing drains a wide region, its branches extending over all the eastern third of Sz'chuen and into the adjacent provinces; Chungking fu stands at its entrance, and receives the timber and boats which come down from Pauning fu and other towns on its banks. The whole province is well watered, and produces grain, silk, tea, horses, metals in abundance, musk, rhubarb, and skins. The climate is good ; the people are of a mixed race, and in many places are governed with an imperfect rule. This pro vince and Kansuh frequently suffer from famine (which, how ever, is a calamity common enough everywhere in China), at which times the mosj; .horrible excesses and misery are endured, people resorting to brigandage to supply their wants, seizing and devouring one another, drowning themselves and exposing their children, and sometimes rising upon their rulers and destroying alL government and subordination. If the internal commerce of the whole country was more secure, these dreadful calamities would be greatly alleviated, if not altogether removed. Insur rections are frequent among the1 half-subdued tribes on the west ern frontier, which are quelled partly by force and partly by bribes and concessions, though it is impossible to learn from the Chinese accounts how they arise. Chingtu fu, the capital, lies ou the Min river, near the centre of the province, in a well watered plain. It was once a city of PROVINCE OF KWANGTUNG. 127 note, but suffered so much at the Manchu conquest that it has not regained its former splendor. The trade of Sz'chuen is by no' means proportionate to its size or capabilities ; the inhabitants cause their rulers much trouble, and are to a great degree them selves the source of most of the commotions and distress that pre vail. The mineral productions of this region are great, but not availed of to the extent they might be ; silk, tea, rhubarb, and grain also form articles of exportation. The province of Kwangtung (i. e. Broad East), from its hav ing been for a long time the only one of the eighteen to whicli foreigners have had access, has almost become synonymous with China, although but little more is really known of it than of the others, except in the vicinage of Canton, and along the course of the Peh kiang, from Nanhiung chau to that city. It is bounded north by Kiangsi and Hunan, north-east by Fuhkien, south by the ocean, and west and north-west by Kwangsi. Its area is about the same as that of the United Kingdom, and its natural facilities for internal navigation and an extensive coasting trade, are unusually great ; for while its long line of coast, nearly a thousand miles in length, affords many excellent harbors, its rivers communicate with the regions on the west, north, and east beyond its borders. The Nan ling runs along the north, between it and Kiangsi ancl Hunan, rendering that portion of the province mountainous. The chain takes forty or fifty names in its course from Kwangsi lo Fuhkien, but no part of it is so well known as the road, twenty-four miles in length, which crosses the Mei ling (i. e. Plum ridge), between Nan-ngan and Nanhiung. The elevation here is about a thousand feet, and none of the peaks in this part of the range exceed two thousand. Towards Kwangsi they be come more elevated. Their summits are limestone, with gra nite underlying ; granite is also the prevailing rock along the coast. The Li-mu ridge in Hainan has some peaks reaching nearly to the snow-line. The bottoms of the livers are wide, and their fertility amply repays the husbandman. Fruits, rice, silk, sugar, tobacco, and vegetables, constitute the greater part of the productions. Lead, iron, and coal, are abundant. The Chu kiang, or Pearl river, which flows past Canton, is formed by the union of three riv.;rs, the West, North, and East rivers, the two first of which unite at Sanshwui, west of the city, 128 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. and the East river joins them at Whampoa. The Sf kiang, or West rivef, is by far the largest of the branches : it rises in the eastern part of Yunnan, and receives tributaries throughout the whole of Kwangsi, along the southern acclivities of the Nan ling, and after a course of 500 miles, passes out to sea through numerous mouths, the best known of which is the Bocca Tigris. The Peh kiang, or North river, joins it after a course of 200 miles, and the East river is nearly the same length ; these two streams discharge the surplus waters of all the northern parts of Kwangtung. The country drained by the three cannot be much less than 150,000 square miles, and most of their channels are navigable for boats to all the large towns in this and the province of Kwangsi. The Han kiang in the eastern end of Kwangtung is the only other river of importance ; the large town of Chau- chau fu, or Tie-chiu, lies near its mouth. The coast-line of Kwangtung extends from Namoh island to Cochinchina, a distance of more than 600 miles in a south-west erly direction, deeply indented with bays and estuaries, and pre senting two remarkable exceptions to the general uniformity of the whole coast — viz. the large delta of the Pearl river, and the peninsula of Luichau opposite Hainan. The number of islands scattered along this line is unknown, but if all are included, there can hardly be less than 300, of wbich nearly one-third belong to the department of Kwangchau. Canton, or Kwangchau fu (i. e. Broad City), the provincial capital, lies on the north bank of the Pearl river in lat. 23° 7' 10" N., and long. 113° 14' 30" E., nearly parallel with Havana, Muskat, and Calcutta ; its climate is, however, colder than either of those cities. The word Canton is a corruption of Kwangtung, derived in English' from Kamlom, the Portuguese mode of writ ing it ; the citizens themselves usually call it Ktcangtung sang ching, i. e. the provincial capital of Kwangtung, or simply sang ching. Another name is the City of Rams, and a third the City of Genii, both derived- from ancient legends. It lies at the foot of the White Cloud hills, along the low banks of the river, about seventy miles north of Macao in a direct line, and ninety north-west of Hongkong ; these distances are further by the river. The delta into which the West, North, and East rivers fall, might be called a gulf, if the islands in it did not occupy so much POSITION AND SIZE OF CANTON. 129 of the area. The whole forms one of the most fertile parts of the province, and one of the most extensive estuaries of any river in the world, — being a rough triangle about a hundred miles long each side. The bay of Lintin — so called from the islet of that name, where the opium and other store ships formerly anchored — is the largest sheet of water within the estuary, and lies below the principal embouchure of the river, called Fu Mini. i. e. Bocca Tigris, or Bogue. Few rivers can be more completely protected than this ; but their defences of walls and guns at this spot availed the Chinese but little against the skill and power of their enemies in the last war ; they were all, ten in number, levelled with the ground. Ships pass through the Bogue, and thence up to the anchorage at Whampoa, about thirty miles ; from whence Canton lies twelve miles nearly due west. The approach to it is indicated by two lofty pagodas within the walls, and the multitude of boats and junks thronging the river, amidst which the most pleasing object to the " far-travelled stranger " is the glimpse he gets through their masts of the foreign factories, and the flagstaff's bearing the English, American, and other ensigns. The part of Canton inclosed by walls is about six miles in cir cumference ; — having a partition wall running east and west, which divides it into two unequal parts. The entire circuit, in cluding the suburbs, is not far from ten miles. The population on land and water, so far as the best data enable one to judge, is not far from a million of inhabitants. This estimate has been doubted ; an\I certainty upon the subject cannot be attained, for the census affords no aid in determining this point, owing to the fact that it is set down by districts, and Canton lies partly in two districts, Nanhai and Pwanyil. which extend beyond the walls, many miles. Mr. Davis says, "the whole circuit of the city has — been compassed within two hours by persons on foot, and cannot exceed six or seven miles ;"' which is true, but he means only that portion inclosed within the walls ; and there are at least as many houses without the walls as within them, besides the boats. The citv is constantly increasing, and the western suburbs pre sent many new streets entirely built up within the last ten years. The houses stretch along the river from opposite the Fa ti or Flow er grounds to French Folly, a distance of four miles, and the banks are everywhere nearly concealed by the boats and rafts. 7*" 130 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. The situation of Canton is one which would naturally soon attract settlers. The earliest notices of the city date back two centuries before Christ, but traders were doubtless located here prior to that time. It grew 'in importance as the country became better settled, and in a. d. 700, a regular market was opened, and a collector of customs appointed. When the Manchus over ran the country, this city resisted their utmost efforts to reduce it for the space of eleven months, and was finally carried by treachery. Martini says a hundred thousand men were killed at its sack ; and the whole number who lost their lives at the final assault and during the siege was 700,000 — if the native accounts are trustworthy. Since then, it has been rebuilt, and has in creased in prosperity until it is regarded as the fourth city in the empire for numbers, and probably next to Peking for wealth. The foundations of the city walls are of sandstone, and their upper part brick ; they are about twenty feet thick, and from twenty-five to forty feet high, having an esplanade on the inside, and pathways leading to the rampart, on three sides. The houses are built very near the wall on both sides of it, so that one hardly sees it when walking around the city, except on the north. There are twelve outer gates, four in the partition wall, and two water gates, through which boats pass from east to west across the New city. A ditch once encompassed the walls, but is now dry on the northern side ; on the other three, and within the city, it and most of the canals are filled by the tide, and present a re volting mass of reeking filth when the retiring waters expose the bottoms. The inhabitants are supplied with water'for washing from these canals and the river ; and tolerable drinking water is plentifully furnished from many springs and wells. The gates of the city are all shut at night, and a guard is constantly sta tioned at them to preserve order, but the idle soldiers them selves cause at times no little disturbance. Among the names of the gates are Great-Peace gate, Eternal-Rest gate, Five-Genii gate, Bamboo- Wicket gate, &c. The appearance of the city when viewed from the hills on the north is insipid and uninviting, compared with western cities, being an expanse of reddish roofs relieved by a few large trees, and interspersed with pairs of high red poles used for flag-staffs. Two pagodas shoot up within the walls, far above the watch- APPEARANCE OF CANTON. 131 towers on them, and with the five-storied tower near the northern gate, form the most conspicuous objects in the prospect. To a spectator at this elevation, the river is a prominent feature in the landscape, covered with a great diversity of boats of differ ent colors and sizes, some stationary and others moving, and all resounding with the mingled hum of laborers, sailors, musicians, marketers, children, and boatwomen, pursuing their several sports and occupations. A fort, called Dutch Folly, or Sea Pearl by the Chinese, is built on a little island in the river, its fanciful buildings and beautiful trees, with the quietude reigning within its walls, agreeably contrasting with the liveliness of the waters around. Beyond, on its southern shore, lies the suburb and island of Honam, and green fields and low hills are seen still further in the distance ; at the western angle of this island, the Pearl R. divides, the greatest body of water flowing south, and leaving a comparatively narrow channel before the city. The hills north of the city rise twelve hundred feet above the river ; their ac clivities for miles are covered with graves and tombs, the necro polis of this vast city : little or no vegetation is seen upon them.- Three or four forts are built on the points nearest the northern walls. The streets are too narrow to be seen from such a spot. Among their names, amounting in all to more" than six hun dred, are Dragon street, Martial Dragon street, Pearl street, Golden Flower street, New Green Pea street, Physic street, Spec tacle street, Flower street, &c. They are not as dirty as those of some other cities in the empire, and oh the whole, considering the habits of the people and surveillance of the government, which prevents almost everything like public spirit, Canton has been a well governed, cleanly city. In these respects it is not now as well kept, perhaps, as it was before the war, nor was it ever com parable to modern cities in the West, nor should it be likened to them : without a corporation to attend to its condition, or having power to levy taxes to defray its unavoidable expenses, it cannot be expected that it should be as wholesome. It is more surprising, rather, that it is no dirtier and no sicklier than it is. The houses along the water are built upon piles driven into the ground, and many portions of the city are subject to inundations when the waters increase. On the edge of the stream, the water percolates the soil, and spoils all the wells. 132 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. The temples and public buildings of Canton are numerous, but none of them offer much worthy of special remark. There are two pagodas near the west gate of the old city, and one hundred and twenty-four temples, pavilions, halls, and other religious edifices within the circuit of the city. One of the pagodas, called the Kwang tah or Plain pagoda, was erected by the Moham medans, who still reside near it, about ten centuries ago, and is rather a minaret than a pagoda, though quite unlike those struc tures in Turkey in its style of architecture : it shoots up in an an gular, tapering tower, to the height of one hundred and sixty feet. The other is an octagonal pagoda, of nine stories, one hundred and seventy feet high, and was first erected more than thirteen hundred years ago. The geomancers say that the whole city is like a junk, these two pagodas are her masts, and the five storied tower on the northern wall, her stern sheets. The Hai-chwang sz', a Budhist temple at Honam opposite the foreign factories, and usually known as the Honam Joss-house, is one of the largest in Canton, and has been frequently described. Its grounds cover about seven acres, surrounded by a wall, and divided into courts, garden-spots, and a burial-ground, where are deposited the ashes of priests whose bodies are burned. The buildings present nothing worthy of note in an architectural point, consisting mostly of cloisters or apartments surrounding a court, within which is a temple, a pavillion, or a hall ; these courts are overshadowed by large trees, the resort of thousands of birds. The outer gateway opens upon the. street on the river banks, and leads up a gravelled walk to a high portico guarded by two huge demoniac figures, through which the visitor enters a small inclosure, separated from the largest one by another spacious porch, in which are four huge statues. This conducts him to the main temple, a low building one hundred feet square, and surrounded by pillars ; it contains three wooden gilded images, in a sitting posture, called San Pau Fuh, or the Past, Present, and Future Budha, each of them about twenty-five feet high, and surrounded by numerous altars and attendant images. Daily prayers are chanted before them by a large chapter, all of whom are dressed in their yellow canonicals, and go through the liturgy with great regularity. Beyond this a smaller building contains a. marble repository somewhat resembling a pagoda, un der which is preserved a relic of Budha, said to be one of his BUDHIST TEMPLES IN CANTON. 133 toe-nails. This court contains other shrines, and many offices for the accommodation of the priests, among which are the print ing-office and library, both of them respectable for size, though the books are little calculated to instruct or entertain either priest or people. There are about one hundred and seventy-five priests con nected with the establishment, only a portion of whom can read. Among the buildings within the walls are several small tem ples dedicated to national deities whom the Budhists have taken into their mythology, for they have no scruples in worshipping whatever will bring devotees to their shrines. One of the apart ments is appropriated' to the reception of hogs (not bugs, as was stated in one work) offered by worshippers, which are fed here as long as they live. Besides the Honam temple, there are two others in the Old city belonging to the Budhists, both of them, like that, well en dowed. One of them, called Kwang-hiau sz', or temple of Glo rious Filial Duty, contains two hundred priests, who are sup ported from the lands belonging to the establishment, which are estimated at three thousand five hundred acres. The num ber of priests and nuns in Canton is not exactly known, but they probably exceed two thousand, nine-tenths of whom are Bud hists. There are only three temples of the Rationalists, and their numbers and influence are far less than those of the Bud hists. The Ching-hwang miau is one of the most important religious institutions in every Chinese city, it being a sort of palladium, in which both rulers and people offer their devotions for the wel fare of the city. The superintendent of that in Canton pays $4000 for his situation, which sum, with a large profit, is ob tained again in a few years, by the sale of candles, incense, &c, to the worshippers. The temples in Canton are cheerless, gloomy abodes, well enough fitted, however, for the residence of inanimate idols and the performance of unsatisfying ceremo nies. The areas in front of them are usually oocupied by huck sters, beggars, and idlers, who are occasionally driven off to give room for the mat-sheds in which theatrical performances, got up by the priests, are acted. The principal hall, where the idol sits enshrined, is lighted only in front, and the altar, drurns, bells, and other furniture of the temple, are little calculated to enliven 134 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. it ; the- cells and inner apartments are inhabited by men almost as senseless as the idols they serve, miserable beings, who, hav ing abandoned society and their better reason too, here drag out a vicious, idle, misanthropic life. The residences of the high officers of government are all situ ated within the walls, part of them in the Old, and part in the New city. The proper residence of the governor-general is Shauking fu, but in consequence of the importance of Canton he is allowed to reside there, though to prevent illegal combinations or exac tions, his official guard of 5000 troops is kept at the former place. His office is situated in the south-western corner of the New city, and comprises a large number of buildings for the accommoda tion of himself and attendants. The collector of customs, styled the Grand Hoppo by foreigners, lives a little east of the governor- general, and these two are the only high officers who reside in the New city. The fuyuen, commander-in-chief, provincial trea surer, judge, literary chancellor, commissioner of the gabel and grain departments, and prefect, all live in different parts of the Old city. The residence of the tsiangkiun, or commander-in- chief, is said to be one of the best built houses in the city ; it was erected for the King of the South, as the son of Kanghi was called, who was sent by his father, about a. d. 1700, to subjugate this region. The Kung yuen, or hall of Literary Examination, in the south-eastern corner of the Old city, is a spacious edifice, containing several thousand cells for the reception of the students who assemble at the examinations held in it. There are four prisons in the city, and all of them large esta blishments ; all the capital offenders in the province are brought to Canton for trial before the provincial officers, and this regula tion makes it necessary to provide spacious accommodations for them. The execution-ground is a small yard near a pottery manufacture between the southern gate and the river side, and unless the ground is newly stained with blood, or cages contain ing the heads of the criminals are hung around it, has nothing about it to attract the attention. Another public building, situ ated near the governor's palace, is the Wan-shau feting, or Impe rial Presence hall, where three days before and after his majesty's birthday, the officers and citizens assemble to pay him adoration. The various guilds and associations among the people, and the merchants from other provinces, have, each of them, public halls FOREIGN FACTORIES. 137 for their particular use, which are usually called consoo Iwuses by foreigners, from a corruption of the native term kung-sz', i. e. public hall ; the total number of these buildings is not less than one hundred and fifty, and some of them are not destitute of ele gance.* The foreign factories in the western suburbs, for a long time the only residences allowed to foreign merchants in China, are far more showy in point of architectural display than any other buildings in Canton ; and, as a block of buildings, are said by the natives to exceed any other in the empire, not even excepting the imperial palaces themselves, though they w&uld not attract attention in western cities as extraordinary for either magnifi cence or convenience. Their river frontage is between seven and eight hundred feet in length, and the area before them is partly occupied with an inclosed garden, about a hundred and twenty feet in depth ; the buildings at the western end of the garden reach to the water's edge. The factories are built of brick stuccoed, with granite foundations ; some of them are three stories high, but most of them only two. They occupy, with the gardens in front, an area about sixty rods long by forty deep, or a little more than fifteen square acres,, which is only three more than the base of the pyramid of Suph is at Gizeh. This small space is still further reduced by three streets lined with Chinese shops and one large native hongf (Mingqua's), which run quite through to the back street, so that the space actually occupied by the whole foreign community in Canton is hardly equal to the base of the great pyramid. The separate houses composing each hong lie one behind the other, so that the facade of the front ones is seen from the river ; those in the rear are reached by an alley passing through the middle of the ground story, the rooms on each side being occu pied with offices and servants' apartments. Some of' the hongs contain four, and a few seven or eight houses, separated from each other by small intervals, quite inadequa'te for sufficient light * Chinese Repository, Vol. IL, pp. 145, 191, &c. f This word is derived from the Chinese hong or hang, meaning a row or series, and is applied to warehouses because these consist of a succession of rooms. The foreign factories are built in this manner, and therefore the Chinese called each block a hong ; the old security -merchants were called hong-merchants, because they lived in such establishments. 138 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. and air to penetrate into some of the retired apartments. Each hong adjoins those next to it, the only lateral division being the three Chinese streets, so that there are, in all, four nearly solid blocks of buildings, placed together almost as close as books in a library. These streets are lined with Chinese shops appropri ated to the sale of articles intended for foreign markets ; one called by the Chinese Sin-lau Ian, i. e. Green Pea street, or Hog lane by foreigners, is chiefly occupied with slop and spirit shops, and frequented by lascars and other sailors from the shipping. The factories are so called from their being the residence of factors ; there -is no handicraft carried on in them, nor are many goods stored in them. They were entirely destroyed by fire in 1822, and soon after rebuilt by the hong-merchants, though a few of the mercantile firms erected their own dwellings. The ground is owned by the hong-merchants. The three eastern hongs (viz. the Creek, Dutch, and Company's) were pillaged and burnt during the war ; they have been since rebuilt under the direction of the British consul for the accommodation of the Con sulate, on a somewhat different plan. A narrow creek separates the easternmost hong from the warehouses of the hong-merchants, and offers some protection against fires among the adjacent shops and workhouses. The next six hongs constitute a solid mass of houses, about thirty in all ; they are called the Chowchow, Old English, Swedish, Imperial, Pau-shun, and American ; a small garden, reaching to the river, occupies the entire area in their front. They are divided by a broad street, called Old China street, from Mingqua's, and the French and Spanish hongs on the west ; and these two last are separated bv another street, called New China street, from the thirteenth and last, called the Danish hong. Tbe Danish and Spanish hongs were burnt in 1843, but have been rebuilt in a much lets commodious style, and extended down to the river side. The rents paid for the factories vary from $1200 to $3000 for each establishment. The trades and manufactories at Canton are all more or less connected with the foreign commerce, ftlany of the silk fabrics exported are woven at Fuhshan or Fatshan, a large town situated about ten miles west of the city ; fire-crackers, paper, mat-sails, cotton cloth, and other' articles, are also made there for exporta tion. The number of persons engaged in weaving cloth in Can ton is about 50,000, including the embroiderers; about 7000 ANCHORAGE OF WHAMPOA. 139 barbers and 4200 shoemakers are stated as the number licensed to shave the crowns and shoe the soles of their fellow-citizens. The suburb of Honam opposite Canton offers a few walks for recreation, and the citizens are in the habit of going over the river to saunter in its fields, or in the cool grounds of the great temple. A couple of miles up the river are the Fa ti or Flower gardens, which supply the plants carried out of the country, and are resorted to by pleasure parties ; but to one accustomed to the squares, gardens, and esplanades of western cities, these grounds appear mean in the extreme. Foreigners ramble into the coun try a little, but rowing upon the river is their favorite and safest recreation. Like Europeans in all parts of the East, they retain their own costume and modes of living, and do not adopt the native styles ; though if it were not for the shaven crown, it is not unlikely many of them would have adopted the Chinese dress. The position of the residents in Canton is far more confined and irksome than at the other four ports, and years must elapse be fore the ill will and contempt now felt by the people will be changed. There have been many causes long in operation to bring about and confirm this unpleasant state of feeling, but they were developed and aggravated by the war, and by demagogues who then stirred up all the worst passions of the populace. The citizens of this city enumerate eight remarkable localities called pah king, which they consider worthy the attention of the stranger. The first is the peak of Yuehsiu, just within the walls on the north of the city, which commands a fine view of the sur rounding country. The Lyre pagoda at Whampoa, and the Eastern sea Fish-pearl, or the Dutch Folly, are two more ; the pavilion of the Five Genii, with the five stone rams, and print of a man's foot in the rock, " always filled with water," near by ; the rocks of Yu-shan ; the lucky wells of Faukiu in the western suburbs ; cascade of Si-tsiau, forty miles west of the city ; and a famous red building in the city, complete the eight " lions." The foreign shipping lies at Whampoa (pronounced Wompoo, i. e. the Yellow Anchorage), a reach in the river four miles in length, above which it is impossible for large ships to go. H. B. M. ship Blenheim, 74, came up within four miles of the city in May, 1841, along the south side of Honam island, but that chan nel has since been blocked up by the Chinese. There are two islands on the south side of the anchorage, called French and 140 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. Danes' islands, on which foreigners and sailors are buried, and where persons from the shipping are allowed to ramble. The prospect from the summit of the hills hereabouts is picturesque and charming, giving the spectator a high idea of the fertility and industry of the land and its people. Large herds of cattle are reared on these and other islands for supplying the shipping with beef, but the people themselves do not use it. The town of Whampoa and its pagoda lies on the island north of the anchorage ; between it and Canton is another called Lob creek pagoda, both of them uninhabited and decaying. Macao (pronounced Macow) is a Portuguese settlement on a small peninsula projecting from the south-eastern end of the large island of Hiangshan. Its Chinese inhabitants are governed by a tsotang or lieutenant of the district magistrate of the town of Hiangshan, aided by a sub-prefect, called the kiun-minfu, who resides at Tsienshan or Casa Branca, a few miles from Macao. The circuit of this settlement is about eight miles, and its limits landward are defined by a Barrier wall running across the isthmus, where a small guard of Chinese troops is stationed to prevent foreigners from trespassing upon the Inner Land. The position of Macao is very agreeable ; nearly surrounded with water, and open to the sea breezes on every side, having a good variety of hill and plain even in its little territory, and a large island on the west called Tui-mien shan or Lapa island, on which are pleasant rambles, to be reached by equally pleasant boat excursions, it is also one of the healthiest residences in south eastern Asia. The principal drawbacks upon its advantages so far as a residence for foreigners goes, are the want of carriage roads, and a choice of society — for the Portuguese and foreign population, generally speaking, are debarred from mutual inter course by their ignorance of each other's language. The population of the peninsula is not far from 30,000, of whom more than 5,000 are Portuguese and other foreigners, living under the control of the Portuguese authorities, and the Chinese under the rule of their own magistrates. The Portuguese pay an annual ground rent for the settlement, and are not allowed to build dwelling-houses without the walls of the town ; the houses occupied by the foreign population are built on the plan of those in other eastern cities, large, roomy, and open, and from the rising nature of the ground on which they stand, present an imposing SETTLEMENT OF MACAO. 141 appearance to the visitor coming in from the sea. Since the con clusion of the war, the Portuguese have obtained some additional unimportant privileges from the Chinese, but their own bigoted, short-sighted policy, and narrow-minded regulations, are the chief obstacles in the way of the town again becoming the place of wealth and trade it was one hundred and fifty years ago, when it was incomparably the richest mart in Eastern Asia. There are a few good buildings in the settlement ; the most imposing edifice, St. Paul's church, was burned in 1835. Three forts on commanding eminences protect the town, and others out side of the walls defend its waters ; the governor takes the oaths of office in the Monte fort ; but the government offices are mostly in the Senate house, situated in the middle of the town. Macao has been the usual residence for the families of merchants trading at Canton, and during the war most of the business was conducted there ; since the peace, the trade has returned to the city, and many of the families have moved to Hongkong, but the authorities are doing what they can to revive the prosperity of the place, by making it a free port. The Typa anchorage lies between the islands Mackerara and Typa, about three miles off the southern end of the peninsula ; all small vessels go into the Inner harbor on the west side of the town. Ships anchoring in the Roads, on the east, are obliged to lie about three miles off the Praya Grande or key, in consequence of shallow water, and large ones cannot come nearer than six miles. Eastward from Macao, about forty miles, lies the newly acquired English colony of Hongkong, an island in latitude 22° 16£' N., and longitude 114° &Y E., on the eastern part of the estuary of the Pearl river. The island of Hongkong, or Hiangkiang (i. e. the Fragrant Streams), is nine miles long, eight broad, and twenty-six in circumference, presenting an exceedingly uneven, barren surface, consisting for the most part of ranges of hills, with narrow intervales, and a little level beach land. The highest peak is 1825 feet. Probably not one twen tieth of the surface is available for agricultural purposes. The island and harbor were first ceded to the Crown of England by the treaty made between Captain Elliot and Kishen, in January, 1841, and again by the treaty of Nanking, in August, 1842. It had been extensively colonized previous to the ratified cession, both by foreigners and Chinese. The town of Victoria lies on 142 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. the north of the island, and extends nearly three miles along the shore, occupying all the land between the water and the ascent of the hills, and rising up the latter wherever the acclivity is not too steep. The secure and convenient harbor, which induced the English plenipotentiary to select this island as the British settle ment, has attracted the chief town to its shores, though the uneven nature of the ground, ill calculated for a compact settlement, compels the inhabitants to stretch their warehouses and dwellings along the beach. In this respect Macao is better situated than Victoria, but that town has no good harbor. The architecture of most of the buildings erected in Victoria is superior to anything heretofore seen in China. Its population in June, 1845, was estimated at 25,000, of whom about 20,000 were Chinese laborers, shopkeepers, and boatmen, of low cha racter, very few of whom had immigrated with their families. The government of the colony is vested in a governor, lieutenant- governor (who is likewise the commandant), chief-justice, and a legislative council of five, assisted by various subordinate officers and secretaries, the whole forming a cumbrous and expensive machinery, compared with the needs and resources of the colony. The governor has also the office of superintendent of British trade at the five ports, and exercises a general control over all British ships and subjects resorting to China. The climate of Hongkong, like that of Macao, is generally healthy to most foreigners, but it has obtained a bad celebrity from the numerous deaths which occurred in 1842 and 1843, though these to a good degree resulted from other causes than the climate, aided no doubt by local predisposing causes existing at the time. Subsequent years have shown, however, that with proper attention to regimen, avoiding the sun, and living in dry, well ventilated houses, as good a degree of health can be enjoyed as at Macao or Canton. The peninsula of Chekchii on the south western point, Shek-pai wan on the west, and the bay of Tytam on the eastern end of the island, are eligible positions for resi dences, but hitherto few of the inhabitants have erected dwelling- houses out of Victoria. The supplies of the island are chiefly brought from the mainland opposite, where an increasing popula tion of Chinese, under the control of the magistrate of Kaulung, find ample demand for all the provisions they can furnish. The population of Hongkong before its cession was about 2000, a COLONY OF HONGKONG. 143 poor and ignorant race, subsisting by fishing and agriculture ; or the cutting and sale of building stone. Three newspapers are published in Hongkong, all of which have a remunerating patronage. The school of the Morrison Education Society, the hospital of the Medical Missionary Society, the Sea men's and Military hospitals, the chapel and school of the London Missionary Society, the government house, the magistracy, jail, the ordnance and engineer departments, Exchange, and the Club house, are among the principal edifices in the town. The amount of money expended in buildings in this colony since its cession is enormous, perhaps over two millions of dollars, and most of them are substantial stone or brick houses. The places just mentioned, and others intermediate in the vicinity of Canton, comprise nearly all those which have been visited by foreigners, except when the officers and crew of a wrecked vessel have been forwarded by the authorities overland from the coast of Canton ; but the close manner in which such parties are kept during their journey, has prevented much observation of the country through which they passed. Fatshan has been represented as eight or ten miles in circumference, but it has not been visited by travellers for a long time, and little or nothing is actually known concerning its extent. The island of Shangchuen or Sancian, where Xavier died, belongs to this province ; it lies south-west of Macao about thirty miles, and is sometimes visited by devout persons from that place to reverence his tomb. The city of Shauchau fu in the northern part of the province, and Shauking fu on the Pearl river west of Canton, are among the most important cities after the capital ; the latter was formerly the seat of the provincial authorities, till they were ordered to remove to Canton to keep the foreigners under con trol. It is said to be one of the best built cities in the southern part of the empire, and its position beautiful. Some of its dis tricts furnish large quantities of tea, and grass suitable for matting. Among other towns of note is Nanhiung chau, situated at the head of navigation on the North river, where goods cross the Mei ling. It is said that fifty thousand porters obtain a live lihood by transporting packages, passengers, and merchandise over the pass, to and from this town and Nan-ngan fu in Kiangsi. It is a bustling place, and the restless habits of these 144 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. industrious carriers give its population somewhat of a turbulent character. The scenery along the river, between Nanhiung and Shauchau fu, is described as wild, mountainous, and barren in the extreme ; the summits of the mountains seem to touch each other across the river, and the massive fragments fallen from their sides, in and along the river, indicate that the passage is not altogether free from danger. In this mountainous region coal is procured, by opening horizontal shafts to the mines, and bringing it down to the river as it is dug. Ellis says, it was brought some distance to the place where he saw it, to be used in the manufacture of green vitriol. One of the most conspicuous objects in this part of the river are five rocks, which rise abruptly from the banks, and fancifully called Wu-ma tau, or Five-horses' heads. The formation of this part of the province consists of compact, dark- colored limestone, overlying sandstone and breccia. Nearly halfway between Shauchau fu and Canton is a celebrated moun tain and cavern temple, dedicated to Kwanyin, the goddess of Mercy, which is much resorted to by devotees and travellers. The cliff is nearly five hundred feet high ; the temple is in a fissure, about a hundred feet above the water, and consists of two stories ; the steps leading up to them, the rooms, walls, and cells, are all cut out of the rock. Inscriptions and scrolls hide the naked walls, and a few inane priests live in this gloomy abode, fit bierophants to hideous idols, worshipped by devotees scarcely less senseless. Mr. Barrow draws a fitting comparison between these men and the inmates of tbe Cork Convent in Portugal, or the Franciscan convent in Madeira, who had likewise " chained themselves to a rock, to be gnawed by the vultures of superstition and fanaticism." The island of Hainan constitutes a single department, called Kiungchau, by which name the Chinese generally know it. It is about one hundred and fifty miles long and one hundred broad. being in extent nearly twice the size of Sicily. It is separated from the main by a narrow strait, filled with shoals and reefs, which render its passage difficult. The interior of the island is mountainous, and the inhabitants give but a partial submission to the Chinese ; they are said to resemble the mountaineers in Kwei chau. This ridge is called Li-mu ling; a remarkable peak on the west is named Wu-chi shan, or Five-finger mountain. The PROVINCE OF KWANGSI. 145 Chinese inhabitants are mostly descendants of emigrants from Fuhkien, and are either trading, agricultural, marine, or piratical in their vocation, as they can make most money. The lands along the coast are fertile, producing areca-nuts, cocoa-nuts, and other tropical fruits, which are not found on the main. Kiung chau fu, the capital, lies at the mouth of the Limu river, opposite Luichau, and possesses a good harbor ; there are several other fine harbors on the southern coast. All the thirteen district towns lie on the coast, and within their circuit, on the Chinese maps, a line is drawn, inclosing the centre of the island, within which the Li min, or Li people live, some of whom are acknowledged to be independent. The population of the island is about 1,500,000. Its productions are rice, sweet potatoe, sugar, tobacco, fruits, tim ber, and wax ; the last is obtained from an insect, called peh-ldh chung, or white-wax insect, which deposits it when laying its eggs. The bay of Tonquin, lying north-east of Hainan, is but little known. It is the resort of pirates, whose depredations have probably nearly destroyed what they lived upon. The seas around Hainan are notorious for the hurricanes, which occur during the summer months. The province of Kwangsi (i. e. Broad West) extends west ward of Kwangtung to the borders of Annam, occupying the region on the south-west of the Nan ling, and constitutes a moun tainous and thinly settled part of the empire. The banks of the rivers sometimes spread out into plains, more in the eastern parts than elsewhere, on which abundance of rice is grown. There are mines of gold, silver, quicksilver, and other metals, in this province, most of which are worked under the superintendence of government, but no data are accessible from which to ascer tain the produce. Among the principal productions of Kwangsi, besides provisions, are cassia, cassia-oil, ink-stones, and cabinet- woods ; its natural resources supply the principal articles of trade, for there are no manufactures of importance. Many par tially subdued tribes are found within the limits of this province, who are ruled by their own hereditary governors, under the supervision of the Chinese authorities ; there are twenty-four chau districts occupied by these people, the names of whose head men are given in the Red Book, and their position marked in the statistical maps of the empire, but no information is given in either, concerning the numbers, language, or occupations, of the 8 146 THE IVIIDDLE KINGDOM. inhabitants. Kwangsi is well watered by the West river and its branches, which enable it to convey its timber and surplus pro duce to Canton, and receive from thence salt and other articles. The mountains rise to the snow-line on the north-west, and much of the province is uncultivable. The capital, Kweilin fu (i. e. Cassia Forest), lies on the Cassia river, a branch of the West river, in the north-east part of the province ; it is described as a poorly built city, surrounded by canals and branches of the river, destitute of any edifices worthy of notice, and having no great amount of trade ; which, indeed, its situation, in the most rugged part of the province, would lead one to infer. Wuchau fu, on the same river, at its junction with the Lung kiang, or Dragon river, where they unite and form the West river, is the largest trading town in the province ; all the export and import trade of the province passes through it. The inde pendent chau districts are scattered over the south-west near the frontiers of Annam, and if anything could be inferred from their position, it might be thought that they were settled by Laos tribes, who had been induced, by the comparative security of life and property within the frontiers, to acknowledge the Chinese sway. The unsubdued Miautsz' are probably altogether distinct from these races ; they occupy the north-east portion of the pro vince, in the mountain fastnesses between it and Kweichau. The province of Kweichau (i. e. Noble Region) lies in the mountainous regions of the Nan ling, between Kwangsi and Sz'chuen, bounded north by Sz'chuen, east by Hunan, south by Kwangsi, and west by Yunnan. Its productions consist of rice, wheat, musk, tobacco, timber, and cassia, with lead, copper, quicksilver, and iron. Horses and other domestic animals are reared in larger quantities than in the eastern provinces. It is a poor province, and its inhabitants are rude and illiterate. During the last war, bodies of troops from Kweichau came down to Canton, and by their lawless conduct and uncouth manners, excited the strongest disgust and contempt of the citizens, who used to mock them with the cry of " kwei tsz' hi!" — " the devils (i. e. foreigners) are after you !" — in order to see them run? The largest river is the Wu, which drains the central and northern parts of the province, and empties into the Yangtsz' kiang. Other tributaries of that river and West river, also have their PROVINCE OF KWEICHAU. 147 sources in this province, but its surface is so uneven that none of them are available for navigation far from their mouths. The capital of the province, Kweiyang fu, is situated near its centre ; it is the smallest provincial capital of the eighteen, its walls not being more than two miles in circumference. The other chief towns or departments are all of them of inferior note. There are many military stations in the southern portions of Kweichau at the foot of the mountains, intended to restrain the unsubdued tribes of Miautsz' who inhabit them. This name is used among the Chinese as a general term for all the dwellers upon these mountains, but is not applied to every tribe by the people themselves. They consist of forty-one tribes in all, found scattered over the mountains in Kwangtung, Hunan, and Kwangsi, as well as in Kweichau, speaking several dialects, and differing among themselves in their customs, go vernment, and dress. The Chinese have several books describing these people, but the notices are confined to a list of their divi sions, and an account of their most striking peculiarities. Their language differs entirely from the Chinese, but too little is known of it to ascertain its analogies to other tongues ; its affini ties are most likely with the Laos, and other tribes between Burmah, Siam, and China. One tribe, inhabiting Lipo hien, is called Yau-jin, and although they occasionally come down to Canton to trade, the citizens of that place firmly believe them to be furnished with short tails like monkeys. They carry arms, and are inclined to live at peace with the lowlanders, but resist every attempt to penetrate into their fastnesses. The Yau-jin first settled in Kwangsi, and thence passed over into Lien chau about the twelfth century, where they have since maintained their footing. Both sexes wear their hair braided in a tuft on the top of the head, but never shaven and tressed as the Chi nese, and dress in loose garments of cotton and linen ; ear rings are in universal use among them. They live at strife among themselves, which becomes a source of safety to the Chinese, who are willing enough to harass and oppress, but are ill able to resist, these hardy mountaineers. In 1832, they broke out in active hostilities against the Chinese, and destroyed nu merous parties of troops sent to subdue them, but were finally induced to return to their retreats by offers of pardon and lar gesses granted to those who submitted. 148 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. A Chinese traveller among the Miautsz' says that some of them live in huts constructed upon the branches of trees, others in mud hovels. Their agriculture is rude, and their garments are obtained by barter from the lowlanders in exchange for metals and grain, or woven by themselves. The religious observances of these tribes are carefully noted, and whatever is connected with marriages and funerals. In one tribe, it is the custom for the father of a new-born child, as soon as its mother has become strong enough to leave her couch, to get into bed himself and there receive the congratulations of his acquaintances, as he exhibits his offspring. Another class has the counterpart of the may-pole and its jocund dance, which, like its corresponding game, is availed of by young men to select their mates. It is said there are more than fifty tribes in all of the Miautsz', but no estimate can be made of their numbers. Many vigorous efforts have been made by the monarchs of the present dynasty to subdue these hardy tribes, but they have all failed ; and the general government now contents itself with keeping them in check, or in efforts to induce them, by kind treatment, to settle on the plains.* The province of Yunnan (i. e. Cloudy South — south of the Yun ling, or Cloudy mountains) is in the south-west of the empire, bounded north by Sz'chuen, east by Kweichau and Kwangsi, south by Annam, Laos, and Siam, and west by Bur mah. The whole province forms an extensive uneven table land, with numerous deep defiles between the ridges, and some fertile plains inclosing lakes of considerable extent. The peaks of the Yun ling in the north rise above the snow-line, but towards the southern frontiers the land subsides into undulating tracts, which increase in extent and levelness to the gulf of Siam and bay of Bengal. The Yangtsz' kiang enters the province on the north-west for a short distance ; but the greatest river in the province is the Lan-tsan kiang, which rises in Tibet, and runs for a long dis tance parallel with the Yangtsz' kiang and Nu kiang between them, till the three break through the mountains not far from each other, and take different courses, — the largest turning to * Chinese Repository, Vol. I., p. 29; Vol. XIV., p. 105-117. Chinese as They Are, p. 316. PROVINCE OF YUNNAN. 149 the eastward across China, the Lantsan south-east through Yun- nan to the gulf of Siam, under the name of the Meikon or river of Cambodia, and the third, or Salween, westerly through Bur mah. The Meikon receives many large tributaries in its course across the province, and its entire length is not less than 1500 miles. The Lungchuen, a large affluent of the Irrawadi, runs a little west of the Salween. The Meinam rises in Yunnan, and flows south into Siam under the name of the Nanting, and after a course of nearly eight hundred miles, empties into the sea below Bangkok. East of the Lantsan are several important streams, of which three that unite in Annam to form the Sang- koi, are the largest. The general course of these rivers is south-easterly, and their upper waters are separated by mountain ridges, between which the valleys are often reduced to very narrow limits. There are two lakes in the eastern part of the province, south of the capital, called Sien and Chin ; the latter is about seventy miles long by twenty wide, and the Sien hu (i. e. Fairy lake) about two-thirds as large. There is another sheet of water in the north-west, near Tali fu, communicating with the Yangtsz' kiang, called TJrh hai or Urh sea, which is more than a hundred miles long, ^nd about twenty wide. The capital, Yunnan fu, lies upon the north shore of lake Chin, and is a town of note, besides its political importance from its trade with other parts of the country through the Yangtsz' kiang, and with Burmah. The trade between this province and Burmah centres at the fortified post of Tsantah, in the district of Tangyueh, both of them situated on a branch of the Irrawadi. The principal part of the commodities is transported upon ani mals from these depdts to Bamo, in Burmah, which stands upon the Irrawadi, and is the largest market-town in this part of Chin- India. The Chinese participate largely in this trade, which consists of raw and manufactured silk to the amount of £81,000 annually, tea, copper, carpets, orpiment, quicksilver, vermilion, drugs, fruits, and other things, carried from their country in .exchange for raw cotton to the amount of £228,000 annually, ivory, wax, rhinoceros and deer's horns, precious stones, birds' nests, peacocks' feathers, and foreign articles. The entire traf fic is probably £500,000 annually, and for a few years past has been regularly increasing. There is considerable intercourse and trade on the southern 150 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. frontiers with the Laos and Annamese, partly by means of the headwaters of the Meinam and Meikon, which are supposed to communicate with each other by a natural canal, and partly by caravans over the mountains. Yunnan fu was the capital of a Chinese prince about the time of the decadence of the Ming dynasty, who had rendered himself independent in this part of their empire by the overthrow of the rebel Li, but having linked his fortunes with an imbecile scion of that house, he displeased his officers, and his territories gradually fell under the sway of the conquering Manchus. The southern and western districts of the province are inhabited by half-subdued tribes of Laos origin, who are governed by their own rulers, under the nominal sway of the Chinese, and pass and repass across the frontiers in pursuit of trade or occupation. The productions of Yunnan are chiefly mineral, but no data are accessible as to the amount obtained from the mines. The elephant, rhinoceros, tapir, tiger, wild boar, and other wild animals occur in its jungles, and birds of brilliant plumage inhabit the forests. CHAPTER IV. Geographical Description of Manchuria, Mongolia, Hi, and Tibet. The portions of the Chinese Empire beyond the limits of the Eighteen Provinces, though of far greater extent, are compara-' lively of minor importance. Their vast regions are peopled by different races, whose languages are mutually unintelligible, and whose tribes are held together under the Chinese sway rather by interest and reciprocal hostilities or dislike, than by force. European geographers have termed all that space lying north of Tibet to Siberia, and east of the Tsung ling to the Pacific, Chinese Tartary ; while the countries west of the Tsung ling or Belur tag, to the Aral sea, have been collectively called Independent Tartary. Both these names should be erased from all maps of those regions, both because their inhabitants are neither all Tartars or Mongols, nor Turks, and because the native names and divisions are*more definite than a single comprehensive one. Such names as Manchuria, Mongolia, Songaria, and Turkestan, derived from the leading tribes dwelling in those countries, are more defi nite, though these are not permanent, owing to the migratory, changeable habits of the people. From their ignorance of scien tific geography, the Chinese have no general designations for extensive countries, long chains of mountains, or devious rivers, but apply many names where, if they knew more, they would be content with one. The following table presents a general view of these countries, giving their leading divisions and forms of government. They cannot be classed, however, in the same manner as the provinces, nor are the divisions and capitals here given to be regarded as definitely settled. Their united area is 3,951,130 sq. m., or a little more than all Europe ; their separate areas cannot be exactly given. Manchuria contains about 700,000 sq. m. ; Mongolia between 1,300,000 and 1,500,000 sq. m. ; 111 about 1,070,000 sq. m. ; and Tibet from 500,000 to 700,000 sq. m. GENERAL VIEW OP THE COLONIES AND THEIR SUBDIVISIONS. COLONIES. PROVINCES. DIVISIONS. CAPITALS. FORMS OF GOVERNMENT. Manchuria. Mong fa. Tibet. j Shingking. \ Kirin. [Tsitsihar. Inner Mongolia. Outer Mongolia. Kfjko-nor. UI insula I. 'Northern Circuit or Songaria. Southern Circuit or Eastern Turkestan. Anterior Tibet, | Ulterior Tibet. I Ladak. Two fu departments and 15 districts ; am 13 garrisons. Three ting departments, or 8 garrisoned posts. Six commanderies. Six corps subdivided into 24 tribes, and 49 standards. S Four kli'inates, viz. Tuchetu, Sainnoin. ( Tsetsen, and Dzassaktu. One residency, having 29 standards. Cohdo, having 11 tribes nnd 31 standards. ) Uliungliui tribes under 21 t-so-ling. ) I Nine garrisoned towns, < Kur-k'ini ii-u, ( Tfirbagatai. STen cities, viz. Ilnrastmr, Kuchc, Pniriin, 1 Hai, Ushi, Oksu, Khoton, Caxhgar, Ying- \ keshar, and Yttrkand. j , Woi nnd Kham, divided into eight cantons and 39 feudal townships. Tsang and Ari, divided into six cantons. Four districts. Moukden. Kirin ula hotun. Tsitsihar hotun. No common capital. Urga or Kurun. Sining fu in Kansuh. Uliasutni. llwnl-Yuen ching. Kur-kara umi. Sul-tsing ching. ll'hissa Toshu-h'lumbu. Loh. All Manchuria is ruled by Boards, and generals at the garrisons. Under three generals at the prefectures Under six generals. Each tribe has its own chieftain or general. Four khans under the kutukta. Undor a Manchu residency. By an amban over the chieftains. Ruled by h military governor, 2 council lors, and 34 residents in tho cities. Under residents subordinate to the governor. Each city under n resident amenable to the governor lit Hi, and nutive begs. Ruled hy the dnlnl-lnnii nnd his hie rarchy, overseen by Chinese residents, Ruled by tbe teshu-lainn, assisted by a rosident from Peking. Not subject to China. EXTENT OF MANCHURIA. 153 Manchuria comprises all the most eastern portion of the high table land of Central Asia, and lies between latitudes 42° and 58° N., and longitudes 120° to 142° E. It is bounded on the north by the Yablonoi-Khrebet or Outer Hing-an mountains, which separate it from the Russian province of Yakoutsk ; east by the channel of Tartary, and sea of Japan ; south by Corea and gulf of Pechele ; south-west by the Great Wall ; west by Mongolia and the Inner Hing-an or Sialkoi mountains ; and north-west by the Kerlon river and Daourian mountains. The area of this vast region is probably 700,000 square miles. The limits between it and Mongolia commence at the Great Wall, and are marked by a palisade running north-east for more than two degrees to the Songari river, and down that stream to latitude 46°, and thence by its branch the Khailar, north-westerly to the Sialkoi, and north to the Daourian ranges. Only a small portion of this vast region has ever been traversed by Europeans, and most of it is' a wilderness. Tbe entire popula tion is not stated in the census of 1812, and from the nature of the country and wandering habits of the people, many tribes of - whom render no allegiance to the emperor, it would be impossi ble to take a regular census ; there are probably more than 2,000,000 in all. Parts of Manchuria, as here defined, have been known under many names at different periods. Liautung (i. e. East of the river Liau) has been applied to the country between that river, Corea, and the sea of Japan ; Tungking (Eastern Capital) referred to the chief town of that region, under the Ming dynasty ; and Kwaniung (East of the Pass) denoted the same country. Manchuria is comprised mostly in the valleys of the Songari and Sagalien rivers and their tributaries in the north, and the Liau river in the south. There are three principal mountain chains. The Sih-hih-tih mountains extend from the boundary of Corea, in latitude 40° in a north-eastern direction along the sea-coast to the mouth of the Sagalien in 52° N., rising on an average 4500 feet, and covered with forests. Its eastern declivi ties are so near the ocean, that only a narrow strip of arable land is left, which is inhabited by a race allied to the Ainos or natives of Yeso, and having little intercourse with the Manchus. The southern extremity of this range from about latitude 43°, bears the Manchu name of Kolmin-shanguin alin, and the Chinese 154 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. name of Changpeh shan, or Long White mountains, extending across Liautung to the north of the Liau ho and other rivers. This part of the range bears ten or twelve names on Chinese maps. One spur called Little White mountains reaches north to 43° near Kirin hotun, and is distinguished by a peak called Pecha, supposed to be 15,000 feet high. The second range is separated from the Sih-hih-tih on the north .only by the valley of the Sagalien. It is the Yablonoi-Khrebet and its spurs, which extend under a variety of names into Tsitsi- har ; there are two principal spurs, one north of the great bend of the Sagalien, and the other between it and the Chikiri, one of its affluents. The Inner Hingan, or Sialkoi range, extends over a great part of Mongolia, commencing near the bend of the Yel low river, and reaching in a north-easterly direction, forms in Manchuria three sides of the extensive valley of the Nonni, ending between the Sagalien and Songari at their junction. Most of these ranges are covered with forests, but of their height, pro ductions, and climate, little is known. The whole country north of the Long White mountains is drained by one river, viz. the Sagalien, Amur, Kwantung, or Hehlung kiang (for it is known by all these names), and its afflu ents ; Sagalien ula in Manchu, and Hehlung kiang in Chinese, both mean Black or Black Dragon river ; the name Kwantung is given to the stream on Chinese maps when it enters the ocean. The Sagalien drains the eastern slope of Central Asia by a cir cuitous course, aided by many large tributaries. Its source is in latitude 50° N., and longitude 110° E., in a spur of the Daourian mountains called Kenteh, where it is called the Onon, and on whose banks Genghis first distinguished himself. After an east and north-east course of nearly five hundred miles, the Onon is joined by the Ingoda in longitude 115° E., a stream rising east of lake Baikal, beyond which point, under the Russian name of Shilka, it flows about two hundred and sixty miles north-east till it meets the Argun coming from the south at Ft. Baklanova. The Argun is fully as long as the upper stream. It rises about three degrees south of the -Onon, on the south side of the Kenteh, and under the name of Kerlon runs in a. general north-east course for four hundred and thirty miles across the country of the Kal kas, receiving few tributaries, to lake Hurun ; a large stream, called the Kalka, here comes in from lake Pir or Puyur, and RIVERS AND LAKES OF MANCHURIA. 155 their waters leave lake Hurun under the name of the Argun, and run northerly nearly four hundred miles to the union with the Shilka in latitude 53°, forming the boundary between Manchuria and Russia. The remainder of its course lies in Manchuria. Beyond fort Baklanova, the river, now called the Amur (i. e. Great river), or Sagalien by the Manchus, flows easterly near the north bend of the Sialkoi, but soon turns south-easterly, forcing its way by a succession of rapids through a narrow valley be tween the Sialkoi and a spur of the Hingan as far south as lati tude 47$°, where it receives the Songari. This tributary rises in the Long White mountains in latitude 42°, and flows north westerly as far as Petune in latitude 45°, along the edge of the desert ; at this place it is joined by the Nonni from the plain of Tsitsihar east of the Sialkoi, and thence runs E. N. E. till it joins the Sagalien. In this part it receives the Hourha, a large affluent which carries off the surplus waters of the valley of Ningouta, the original territory of the Manchus. After their junction, the Chinese call the river Kwantung ; it runs nearly north-east to its embouchure in latitude 53° N., and longitude 143° E., receiving many small, and one large stream, called the Usuri ; this is nearly as long as the Songari, and drains the western side of the Sih-hih-tih range. Its entire length is nearly two thousand two hundred miles, and the area of the country drained by it about 900,000 square miles. There are three considerable lakes in Manchuria ; the Hurun and Pir on the west of the Sialkoi, and the Hinkai nor in the valley of the Usuri. The first is about two hundred miles in circuit, but nothing is known of it. The Hinkai is about forty miles long, and situated near the headwaters of tho Usuri in latitude 44° N., not more than seventy miles from the sea, from which it is separated by a low range. The region between the Songari and the sea of Japan is almost as much unknown to Europeans as the centre of Africa.* The country south-east of the desert, and north of the Great Wall, is drained and fertilized by the Sira-muren, or Liau river, the largest branch of which, the Hwang ho, flows through Chahar in a south-easterly course, taking its rise near the Pecha peak, and joins the Liau in Shing king, under which name it empties into the gulf of Liautung, * Penny Cyclopaedia, Art. Amur. 156 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. after a course of four hundred miles. The Yahluh kiang, nearly three hundred miles long, runs in a very crooked channel along the northern frontiers of Corea. The greatest part of Manchuria is covered by forests, the abode of wild animals, whose capture affords employment, clothing, and food, to their hunters. The rivers and coasts abound in fish ; among which carp, sturgeon, salmon, pike, and other spe cies, as well as shell-fish, are plenty ; the pearl fishery is carried on by government, which sends its soldiers to the mouth of the Sagalien to procure the pearls. The argali and jiggetai are two species of deer peculiar to this part of Asia ; bears, wolves, tigers, deer, and numerous fur-bearing animals are hunted for their pelage. The troops are required to furnish 2400 stags annually to the emperor, who reserves for his own use only the fleshy part of the tail as a delicacy. The condor is the largest bird of prey, and for its size and fierceness rivals its congener of the Andes. The greatest part of Shingking and the south of Kirin is- culti vated ; wheat, barley, pulse, millet, and buckwheat are the prin cipal crops. Ginseng and rhubarb are collected by troops sent out in detachments under the charge of their proper officers. These portions support large herds of various domestic animals. The immense quantities of timber which cover the mountains will perhaps prove a source of wealth when the Sagalien and its tributaries are traversed by Europeans. La Peyrouse coasted along the eastern shores of Manchuria, but saw no sign of any inhabitants most of the distance between lats. 43° and 50°. Manchuria is divided into three provinces, Shingking, Kirin, and Tsitsihar, or Hehlung kiang. The province of Shingking includes within its limits the ancient Liautung. lt is bounded north by Mongolia ; north-east and east by Kirin ; south by Corea, from which the Yahluh river divides it, and the gulf of Liautung; and west by Chahar in Chihli. It contains two departments, viz. Fungtien fu and Kinchau fu, subdivided into fifteen districts ; there are also twelve garrisoned posts at the twelve gates in the palisade, whose troops are under the direction of a general living at Moukden. Manchuria is under a more strictly military go vernment than any part of the eighteen provinces, every male above eighteen being liable to be called on for military service, and in fact is enrolled under that one of the eight standards to CITIES IN MANCHURIA. 157 which by birth he belongs. The administration of Shingking is partly civil and partly military, that of Kirin and Tsitsihar is entirely military. The capital of Shingking is usually known as Moukden from its Manchu name ; its Chinese name is Fungtien fu. As the metropolis of Manchuria, it is also known as Shingking (the Affluent capital), distinguished from the name of the province by the addition of pun-ching, or head garrison. It lies in latitude 41° 50£' N., and longitude 123° 37' E., on the banks of a branch of the Liau, about five hundred miles north-east from Peking. The town is surrounded by a wall about ten miles in circuit, inclosing another wall which separates the emperor's residence from the town ; this part of the city is three miles in circum ference. The palace, and the buildings connected with it, the government offices and courts, and the grounds within it, are all arranged on a plan similar to those at Peking. It was called Moukden, which signifies flourishing, by the Manchu monarchs in 1631, when they made it the seat of their government, and the emperors have since done everything in their power to enlarge and beautify it, but with only partial success. The town of Hingking, sixty miles east of Moukden, is one of the favored places in Shingking, from its being the family residence of the Manchu monarchs, and the burial-ground of their ancestors. It is pleasantly situated in a mountain valley, and the tombs are upon a mountain three miles north of it called Tsz' yun shan. The circuit of the walls is about three miles. Hingking is situated near the palisade which separates the pro vince from Kirin, and its officers have the rule over the sur rounding country, and the entrances into that province ; a large garrison is maintained there, which, with tbe salubrity of the air, has attracted a considerable population. The emperor Kienfung rendered himself celebrated among his subjects, and the city of Moukden better known abroad, by a poetical eulogy upon the city and province, which was printed in sixty- four different forms of Chinese writing. This curious piece of imperial vanity and literary effort was translated into French by Amyot. Kinchau is the port of Moukden, fifteen leagues from it, and carries on considerable trade in cattle, pulse, and drugs. Gutz- laff describes the harbor as shallow, and exposed to southern gales ; the houses in the town are built of stone, the environs 158 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. well cultivated and settled by Chinese from Shantung, while the natives of Fuhkien carry on the trade. The Manchus lead an idle life, but keep on good terms with the Chinese who frequent the place. When he was there in 1832, the authorities had ordered all the females to seclude themselves in order to put a stop to debauchery among the sailors. Horses and camels are numerous and cheap, but the carriages are clumsy. The houses are warmed by large forms of masonry, under which the fire is kindled, and in which the cooking is done ; the inmates sleep upon it by night and lounge on it by day. This mode of warming dwellings prevails also in the northern provinces, modi fied in its comfort and extent according to the means of the householder. Kaicbau, another port lying on the east side of the gulf, possesses a better harbor, but is not so much frequented. Most of the other towns in Shingking have no claim to any higher appellation than garrisons or hamlets. Fung-hwang ting is the frontier town on the east, lying near the Yahluh kiang, and commanding all the trade with Corea, which must pass through it. There are many restrictions upon this intercourse by both governments, which forbid their subjects passing and repassing the frontiers. The trade is conducted at fairs, under the supervision of officers and soldiers, and the short time allowed for concluding the bargains, and the great numbers resorting to them, render them more like the frays of opposing clans than the scenes of peaceable trade. There is a market-town in Corea itself, - called Ki-iu wan, about four leagues from the frontier, where the Chinese " supply the Coreans with dogs, cats, pipes, leather, stags' horns, copper, horses, mules, and asses ; and receive in exchange, baskets, kitchen utensils, rice, corn, swine, paper, mats, oxen, furs, and small horses." Only four or five hours are allowed to conduct this fair, and the Corean officers under whose charge it is placed, drive all the strangers back to the frontier as soon as the day closes.* The department of Kincbau lies along the gulf of Liautung, between the Palisade and the sea, and contains four small dis trict towns, with forts, whose garrisons of agricultural troops have collected around them a few settlers. On the south, towards Chihli and the Wall, the country is better cultivated. * Annales de la Propagation, 1846, page 55. CLIMATE AND TRADE. 159 The northern shores of the gulf are described by Lord Jocelyn as presenting an agreeable surface ; the hills terraced, and resem bling in general appearance the western coast of Scotland. Great encouragement is held out to the Chinese to settle in these parts, but the bleak climate, joined to the difficulty of under standing another language, and dislike of the rude Manchus, disheartens them from extensive immigration. The climate of Manchuria is such as to prevent the country from being thickly settled. One traveller describes it as being colder than Moscow, while the dwellings are not secured so as to insure warmth to their inmates. A resident there says : — " Al though it is uncertain where God placed paradise, we may be sure that he chose some other country than Liautung ; for of all savage regions, this takes a distinguished rank for the aridity of the soil and rigor of the climate. On his entrance, the traveller remarks the barren aspect of most of the hills, and the naked ness of the plains, where not a tree nor a thicket, and hardly a slip of a herb is to be seen. The natives are superior to any Europeans I have ever seen for their powers of eating ; beef and pork abound on their tables, and I think dogs and horses too under some other name ; rich people eat rice, the poor are content with boiled millet, or with another grain called hac-bam, about thrice the size of millet and tasting like wheat, which I never saw elsewhere. The vine is cultivated, but must be covered from October to April ; the grapes are so watery that a hundred litres of juice produce by distillation only forty of poor spirit. The mulberry does not grow here, but the leaves of a tree resembling an oak are used to rear wild silkworms, and this is a considerable branch of industry. The people relish the worms as food after the cocoons have been boiled, drawing them out with a pin, and sucking the whole until nothing but the pellicle is left."* Another says, the ground freezes seven feet in Kirin, and about three in Shingking ; the thermometer in winter is thirty degrees below zero. The snow is raised into the air by the north-east winds, and becomes so fine that it pene trates the clothes, houses, and enters even the lungs. When travelling, the eyebrows become a mass of ice, the beard a large flake, and the eyelashes are frozen together ; the wind cuts and * Annales de la Foi, tome XVI., page 359. 160 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. pierces the skin like razors or needles. The earth is frozen during eight months, but vegetation is rapid during the summer, and the streams are swollen by the thawing drifts of snow. The province of Kirin, or Girin, comprises all the country north-east of Shingking, bordering on the sea of Japan and gulf of Tartary. It is bounded north by the Hingan ling, separating it from Russia, east by the ocean, south-east by Corea and Shing king from which a palisade partly divides it, and west by Mon golia and Tsitsihar ; extending through nearly twelve degrees of latitude, and twenty of longitude. This extensive region is thinly inhabited by Manchus settled in garrisons along the bot toms of the rivers, and by tribes having affinity with them, who subsist principally by hunting and fishing, and acknow ledge their fealty by a tribute of peltry, but who have no officers of government placed over them. They have been called Kiching Tatse and Yupi Tatse and other names, by Du Halde, which seem indeed to have been their ancient designations, but which no longer appear on good Chinese maps. The Ghailaks and other tribes on the coast are hardly known to the Chinese geographers, and all are completely independent. The words Yu-pi Tahtsi, or Fish-skin Tartars, are evidently descriptive and not technical. This tribe inhabit the extensive valley of the Usuri, and do not allow the subjects of the emperor to live among them. In winter they nestle together in kraals like the Bushmen, having cut down fuel enough to last them till warm weather, and sub sist upon the products of their summer's fishing. Kirin is divided into three ruling ling departments or com- manderies, viz. Kirin ula, or the garrison of Kirin, Petune or Pedne, and Changchun ting. Kirin is the largest of the three commanderies, and is subdivided into eight garrison districts. The town itself is situated on the Songari, in latitude 43° 45' NV, and longitude 126° 25' E., and is a mere collection of huts, with a few better built houses for the accommodation of the officers. Ninguta is the largest town in the province ; it lies east of it, and its officers have the direction of all the region lying along the sea of Japan. The district extends more than a thousand miles from east to west, and about four hundred north to south, and is inhabited by fishermen and hunters. The town lies upon the river Hourha, which is described as running through a fine vallev ; it is surrounded by a stockade, within PROVINCE OF KIRIN. 161 which are two smaller inclosures. Near it is a subterranean body of water, from which large fish are procured. The officers at Sansing at the junction of the Hourha with the Songari, have rule over all the country along the banks of the Sagalien to the ocean, including, according to Chinese maps, the large island of Tarakai. Many villages and posts are marked in the maps on the banks of the rivers, but all of them are small. The island of Tarakai, or Sagalien, lies off the mouth of the Kwantung, extending about six hundred miles from latitude 46° to 54°, and varying from twenty-five to one hundred miles in width ; its area is about 30,000 sq. m. The strait on its west ern shore has never been sailed through, and some doubt exists as to the accessibility of the mouth of the Sagalien by large vessels. A bay about fifty miles wide lies off the embouchure, and receives the waters of this majestic stream, which all flow north into the sea of Okhotsk, with a very rapid current. The southern half of the island is mountainous, and the inhabitants there are apparently governed by the Japanese from Yeso ; they call themselves Ainos, but the Chinese call them Orun-chun, Kuyih, and Fiyak. They subsist by fishing, dwell in huts, and manufacture a cloth from willow bark ; their average height is five feet three inches, and their physiognomy approaches to that of the Kurile islanders. Their dress, and some of their customs, show that the Chinese and Manchus frequently visit them, and there is probably considerable intercourse with those living on the shores opposite the main. Krusenstern found the inhabitants of two villages on the north-west coast to consist entirely of Manchus. The number of articles of cutlery, arms, cloth, lackered ware, &c, of Chinese and Japanese manufacture, in dicated that they carry on some traffic. So far as the observations of voyagers have gone, they do not cultivate the soil ; and roots, fruit, and berries, supply all their vegetable diet. The chief town in the second commandery of Petune lies on the Songari, near its junction with the Sagalien, in lat. 45° 10' N., and long. 124° 40' E. It is inhabited by troops, and persons banished from China to these remote parts for their crimes. Its favorable position renders it a place of considerable trade and importance, and during the summer months it is a busy mart for these thinly peopled regions. The third commandery of Chang chun is small; it lies west of Kirin and south of Petunia, just 162 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. beyond the Palisade. Altchoucu and Larin are two other garri- soned towns in Kirin, which have attracted some of the trade on the Songari and Amur. Little or nothing is known concerning the languages spoken by the tribes in Kirin, their numbers, or their internal govern ment ; for native statistical writers content themselves with giving a bare list of names and divisions, and let the reader infer that all the inhabitants are obedient subjects to the gentle sway of the son of heaven. Like true Chinese, they give no account of any but those who will bring tribute, and " range themselves under the renovating influence of the glorious sun of the celestial em pire." The province of Tsi-tsi-har, or Hehlung kiang, comprises the north-west of Manchuria, extending four hundred miles from east to west, and about twelve hundred from north to south. It is bounded north by the Hingan ling ; east and south-east by San- sing and Kirin ula, from which the Songari partly separates it ; and south and west by Mongolia. Tbe greatest part of it is oc cupied by the valley of the Nonni river, and its area of about 200,000 sq. miles is mostly an uninhabited mountainous wilder ness. It is divided into six commanderies, viz. Tsitsihar, Hulan, Putek, Merguen, Sagalien ula, and Hurun-pir, whose officers have control over the tribes within their limits ; of these, Sagalien ula, or Hehlung kiang ching, on the river of that name, is the chief town in the north-east districts, and is used by the govern ment of Peking as a penal settlement. Tsi-tsi-har, the capital of the province, lies on the river Nonni, in lat. 47°, and long. 123£° E., and is a place of some trade, re sorted to by the tribes near the river. Merguen, Hurun-pir, and Hulan, are situated upon rivers, and accessible when the waters are free from ice. They are smaller than the posts in Kirin, and most of them have never been described by Europeans. In fact, few of the towns in Manchuria have been visited since the sur veys and journeys of the Jesuits in Kanghi's time, and the infor mation possessed of them is scanty and imperfect. Tsitsihar was built in 1692 by Kanghi to overawe the neiffhborino- tribes. It is inclosed by a stockade and a ditch. Amyot gives a list of twenty-two towns in the whole of this vast region, but this pro bably comprises only those in which officers reside. The val ley of the Nonni is cultivated by the Taguri Manchus, among PROVINCE OF TSITSIHAR. 163 whom six thousand six hundred families of Yakutes settled in 1687, when they emigrated from Siberia. The.Korchin Mon gols occupy the country south and west of this valley. Some of its streams produce large pearls. The part of Tsitsihar south of the Sialkoi mountains, is level, and most of it has been consi dered an extension of the great desert ; though susceptible of cultivation and receiving some, the rigor of the climate seems to be one of the strongest reasons why it remains desolate. One of the most marked distinctions between the- Mongols and Man chus is seen in the agricultural labors of the latter, so opposed to the nomadic habits of the former. The administration of Manchuria consists of a supreme civil government at Moukden, and three provincial military ones, though Shingking is both civil and military. There are five Boards, each under a president, whose duties are analogous- to those at Peking, but on a greatly reduced scale. The oversight of the city itself, like that of Peking, is under a fuyin or mayor, superior to the prefect. The three provinces are under as many marshals, whose subordinates rule the commanderies, and these last have garrison officers subject to them, whose rank and power correspond to the size and importance of their districts. These delegate part of their power to " assistant directors," or residents, who are stationed in every town ; on the frontier posts, the officers have a higher grade, and report directly to the mar shals or their lieutenants. All the officers, both civil and mili tary, are Manchus, and a great portion of them belong to the imperial clan, or are intimately connected with it. By this ar rangement, the Manchus are in a measure disconnected with the general government of the provinces, furnished with offices and titles, and induced to recommend themselves for promotion in the empire by their zeal and fidelity in their distant posts. Mongolia is the first in order of the colonies, by which are meant those parts of the empire under the control of the Li-fan Yuen, or Foreign Office. According to the statistics of the em pire, it comprises the region lying between lats. 35° and 52° N., from long. 82° to 123° E. ; bounded north by the Russian government of Irkutsk ; north-east and east by Manchuria ; south by the provinces of Chihli and Shansi, and the Yellow river ; south-west by Kansuh ; and west by Cobdo and lli. Its length 164 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. from east to west is about seventeen hundred miles, and one thousand in its greatest breadth, inclosing an area of 1,400,000 sq. miles, supporting an estimated population of two millions. McCulloch describes this extensive region " as an elevated plain, almost destitute of cither wood or water, inclosed southward by the mountains of Tibet, and northward by offsets from the Altai range. The central part is occupied by the great sandy desert of Gobi, which stretches in a north-east direction about twelve hundred miles with a breadth varying from five hundred to seven hundred miles, a barren stepp having comparatively few fertile tracts and stunted trees, and destitute for the most part of water. The chief mountains of this region are, 1. The Altai, and its various subordinate chains, extending eastward under the names of Tangnu, Khangai, and Kenteh, as far as the banks of the Sagalien, where the range is deflected northward and joins the Yablonoi-Khrebet. 2. The Ala shan and In shan ranges which commence in lat. 42° N. and long. 107° E., and curve N.N.E., and northward as far as the Amur in lat. 53° N., where they join the Altai."* The rivers of Mongolia are numerous chiefly in the north, be longing to the basins either of the Irtish or Sagalien. Connected with the former are the Selenga, Orkhon, and Tola, which unite their streams and flow into lake Baikal. The Kerlon and Onon, tributaries of the Sagalien, rise near each other, on opposite sides of the Kenteh range, and flow in a north-east direction through Mongolia. In the south are the Sira-muren, and its branches, which unite in the Liau river, and several rivers in the region of Koko-nor, some pouring their waters into isolated lakes, and others bearing their tribute to the Yellow river. The chief lakes south of the desert are Koko-nor, or the Azure sea, and the Oling and Dzaring, near the sources of the Yellow river. Inner Mon golia has nb lakes of any importance, and those in the Kalkas khanates are small ; but Cobdo, in the north-west, is a country of lakes, the principal being the Upsa nor and Altai nor, on the east, Alak nor, on the south, and the fki-aral, near which lies the town of Cobdo. The climate of Mongolia is excessively cold, arising partly from its great elevation and dry atmosphere, and on the stepps to " Geographical Dictionary, Vol. II., page 340. FOUR DIVISIONS OF MONGOLIA. 165 the want of shelter from the winds. In the parts bordering on Chihli, the people make their houses partly under ground, to avoid the inclemency of the season. The soil in and upon the confines of this high land is por, and unfit for agricultural purposes, on account of the want of moisture, neither snow nor rain falling in sufficient quantities except on the acclivities of the mountain ranges ; but millet, barley, and wheat might be raised north and south of it, if the people were not averse to an agricultural life. They rejoice in their freedom from such occupations, and move about with their herds and possessions within the limits the Chi nese have marked out for each tribe to occupy. The space on the north of Gobi to the confines of Russia, about one hundred and fifty miles wide, is warmer than the desert, and supports a greater population than the southern sides. Cattle are numerous on the hilly tracts, but none are found in the desert, where wild animals and birds hold undisputed possession. The thermometer in winter falls thirty and forty degrees below zero, and sudden and great changes are frequent. No month in the year is free from snow and frost ; but on the stepps, the heat in summer is almost intolerable, owing to the radiation from the sandy or stony surface. The snow does not fall very deep, and even in cold weather the cattle find food under it ; the flocks and herds are not, however, very large. The principal divisions of Mongolia are four, viz. : 1. Inner Mongolia, lving between the Wall and soutli of the desert; 2. Outer Mongolia, between the desert and the Altai mountains, and reaching from the Inner Hingan to the Tien shan ; 3. the country about Koko-nor, between Kansuh, Sz'chuen, and Tibet; and, 4. the dependencies of Uliasutai, lying north-westward of the Kalkas khanates. The whole of this region has been in cluded under the comprehensive name of Tartary, and if the limits of Inner and Outer Mongolia had been the bounds of Tar- tarv, the appellation would have been somewhat appropriate. But when Genghis arose to power, he called his own tribe Kukai Mongol, meaning Celestial People, and designated all the other tribes Tatars, that is, tributaries. The three tribes of Kalkas, Tsakhars, and Sunnites, now constitute the great body of Mongols under Chinese rule. Inner Mongolia, or Nui Mungku, is bounded north by Tsitsi har, the Tsetsen khanate, and Gobi ; east by Kirin and Shing 166 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. king, from which a palisade divides it; south by Chihli and Shansi; and west by Kansuh. The country is divided into six corps, and twenty-four tribes, which are again placed under forty- nine standards or khochoun, each of which generally includes about two thousand families, commanded by hereditary princes, or dzassaks. The principal tribes are the Kortchin and Ortous. The large tribe of fhe Tsakhars, which occupies the region north of the Wall, is governed by a lutung, or general, residing at Kal gan, at the Changkia gate, and their pasture-grounds are now included in the province of Chihli. The province of Shansi in like manner includes the lands occupied by the Toumets, who are under the control of a general stationed at Suiyuen, beyond the Yellow river. Most of the smaller tribes, except the Ortous, who occupy the country between the bend of the Yellow river and the Great Wall, live between the western frontiers of Manchuria, and the stepps reaching north to the Sialkoi range, and south to Chahar. These tribes are peculiarly favored by the Manchus, from their having joined them in their conquest of China, and their leading men are often promoted to high stations in the government cf the country. The whole of Inner Mongolia is gradually improving under the industry of Chinese settlers and exiles, and the foster ing care of the imperial government. Outer Mongolia, or Wai Mungku, is an extensive tract lying north of Inner Mongolia as far as Russia ; it is bounded north by Russia, east by Tsitsihar, south-east and south by Inner Mon golia, south-west by Barkoul in Kansuh, west by Tarbagatai, and north-west by Cobdo and Uliasutai. The desert of Gobi occu pies the southern half of the region. It is divided into four lu, or circuits, each of which is governed by a khan or prince, claiming direct descent from Genghis, and superintending the in ternal management of his own khanate. The Tsetsen khanate lies west of Hurun-pir in Tsitsihar, extending from Russia on the north to Inner Mongolia on the south. West of it, reaching from Siberia across the desert to Inner Mongolia, lies the Tuchetu khanate, the most considerable of the four ; the road from Kiakhta to Kalgan and Peking across the desert lies within its borders. West of the last, and bounded south by Gobi, and north-east by Uliasutai, lies the region of the Kalkas of Sain- noin ; and on its north-west lies the Dzassaktu khanate, south of INNER AND OUTER MONGOLIA. 167 Uliasutai, and reaching to Barkoul and Cobdo on the south and west. All of them are politically under the control of two Manchu residents at Urga or Kurun, who direct the mutual interests of the Mongols, Chinese, and Russians. Most of the real power over the Kalkas is in the hands of a kind of high-priest called kutukiu, living at Kurun, the largest town in Mongolia, situated in the Tuchetu khanate in latitude 48° 20' N., and longitude 107$° E., on the Tola river, a branch of the Selenga. The four khanates constitute one aimak or tribe, subdivided into eighty-six standards, each of which is restricted to a certain territory, within which it wanders about at pleasure. There are altogether one hundred and thirty-five standards of the Mongols. The Kalkas chiefly live in the country between the Altai mountains and Gobi, but do not cultivate the soil to any great extent. They are devoted to Budhism, and the lamas hold most of the power in their hands through the kutuktu. They render an annual tribute to the emperor of horses, camels, sheep, and other animals or their skins, and receive presents in return of many times its value, so that they are kept in subjection by constant bribing ; the least restiveness on their part is visited by a reduction of presents and other penalties. An energetic government, however, is not wanting in addition. The supreme tribunal is at Urga ; it is called the yamoun, and has the civil and military jurisdiction, and administers justice. The decisions of the tribunal are subject to the revision of Chinese residents, and sentences are usually carried into execution after their con firmation. The punishments are horribly severe ; sometimes the criminal is broken on the wheel, sometimes quartered, at others torn in pieces by horses, or the feet held in boiling water. Letters are encouraged among them by the Manchus, but with little success. Their tents are made of a frame-work of osier covered with layers of felt ; the hearths are in the centre, and few of them have more than two apartments. The lodges of the rich Kalkas have several apartments, and are elegantly furnished, but destitute of cleanliness, comfort, or airiness. Most of their cloths, utensils, and arms are procured from the Chinese. The Sunnites are fewer than the Kalkas, and roam the sterile wastes of Gobi in the manner of the Bedaween. Both derive some revenue from conducting caravans across their country, but de- 168 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. pend for their livelihood chiefly upon the produce of their herds and hunting. Their princes are obliged to reside in Kurun, or keep hostages there, in order that the residents may direct and restrain their conduct ; but their devotion to the kutuktu, and the easy life they lead, are the strongest inducements to remain. The trade with Russia is carried on at Kiakhta, a hamlet on a creek of the same name, in latitude 50° 21' N., and longitude 106° 28' E., flowing into the Selenga, close to the border, the boundary line, marked by granite columns, running between it and Mai-mai chin on the Chinese side. The trade is carried on between a small suburb of Kiakhta, consisting of fifty houses, and Maimai chin, and when the goods are entered they pay duty at the custom-house in the Russian city. The Chinese town con sists entirely of men engaged in traffic, no women being allowed in tbe place, from twelve hundred to fifteen hundred in number, under the superintendence of Manchu officers appointed from Peking. The trade is conducted by six commissioners appointed on each side, who fix the price of every article of import, and of the tea exchanged for it, and the proportion of each sort to be exchanged. The imports consist of Russian habit-cloths, velvet eens, camlets, linen, leather, skins, and furs ; fire-arms, cutlery, mirrors, watches, and other fancy articles. The numbers of these commodities in 1843 were, habit-cloths and other woollens, 20,439 ps. ; Russian and Dutch camlets, 26,178 ps. ; linens, 567,012 ps. j velveteens, 1,167,138 ps. ; goat-skins tanned, 52,605 skins ; furs, consisting of cat, squirrel, otter, lynx, and musquash, 1,011,177 skins ; and 160,345 fine lamb-skins from Bokhara and the Ukraine. These goods are always exchanged at a fixed valuation for tea and preserves, lackered- ware, nankeens, and silks, but no data are obtainable of the amount and value ; in 1834, the average amount of tea for the two or three years preceding was nearly eight millions of pounds ; there were 120,000 chests in 1843, all black.* Brick tea forms a considera ble part of tbe whole ; it is used by the Mongols in Siberia ; opium is introduced in small quantities. The total trade is stated by Cottrell at a hundred millions of rubles annuallv (over £4,166,000), and tbe import duty paid by Russians in 1836 was * Chinese Repository, Vol. XIV., page 2S0. TRADE AT KIAKHTA COBDO. 169 £496,275 ; but from the monopoly enjoyed by the commissioners on both sides, it is not very profitable to the private traders. Others place it much less than this. Maimai chin (i. e. Buying-Selling mart) is a small hamlet, having two streets crossing at right angles, and gates at the four ends, in the wooden wall which surrounds it. The streets barely allow two camels to pass, and are badly paved. The one-storied houses are constructed of wood, roofed with turf or boards, and consist of two small rooms, one used as a shop and the other as a bed-room. The windows in the rear apartment are made of oiled paper or mica, but the door is the only opening in the shop. The dwellings are kept clean, tbe furniture is of a superior description, and considerable taste and show are seen in display ing the goods. The traders live luxuriously, and attract a great crowd there during the fair in February, when the goods are exchanged. They are under the control of a Manchu called the dzarguchi, who is appointed for three years, and superintends the police of the settlement as well as the commercial proceedings. There are two Budhist temples in it served by lamas, and con taining five colossal images sitting cross-legged, and numerous smaller idols.* The western portion of Mongolia between the meridians of 84° and 96° E., extending from near the western extremity of Kan suh province to the confines of Russia, comprising Uliasutai and its dependencies, Cobdo, and the Kalkas and Tourgouths of the Tangnu mountains, is less known than any other part of it. The residence of the superintending officer of this province is at Uliasutai, or Poplar Grove, a town lying north-west of the Selen- ga, in the khanate of Sain-noin, in a well cultivated and pleasant valley. Cobdo, according to the Chinese maps, lies in the north-west of Mongolia ; it is bounded north and west by the government of Yenissei, north-east by Ulianghai, and south-east by the Dzas- saktu khanate, south by Kansuh, and west by Tarbagatai. The part occupied by the Ulianghai tribes of the Tangnu mountains lies north-east of Kobdo, and north of the Sain-noin and Dzas- saktu khanates, and separated from Russia by the Altai. The government of the Ulianghai tribes is administered by twenty- * Cottrell's Recollections of Siberia, Chap. LX., page 314. 9 170 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. five subordinate military officers, subject to the resident at Ulia sutai. This city is said to contain about two thousand houses, is regularly built, and carries on some trade with Kurun ; it lies on the Iro, a tributary of the Djabkan. Cobdo comprises eleven tribes of Kalkas divided into thirty-one standards, whose princes obey an amban at Cobdo city, himself subordinate to the resident at Uliasutai. The Chinese rule over these tribes is conducted on the same principles as that over the other Mongols, and they all render fealty to the emperor through the chief resident at Uliasutai, but how much obedience is really paid his orders is not known. The Kalkas submitted to the emperor in 1688 to avoid extinction in their war with the Eleuths, by whom they had been defeated. Cobdo contains several lakes, many of which receive rivers without having any outlet, but it is not known whether they are all salt. The largest is Upsa nor, which receives from the east the river Tes, and the Iki-aral nor into which the Djabkan falls. The river Irtish falls into lake Dzaisang. The existence of so many rivers indicates a more fertile country north of the Altai or Ektag mountains, but no bounties of nature would avail to induce the inhabitants to adopt settled modes of living and culti vate the soil, if such a clannish state of society exists among them as is described by M. Levchine to be the case among their neigh bors, the Kirghis. The tribes in Cobdo resemble the American Indians in their habits, disputes, and modes of life, more than the eastern Kalkas, who approximate in their migratory character to the Arabs. The province of Tsing hai, or Koko-nor, is not included in Mongolia by European geographers, nor in the Chinese statistical works is it comprised within its limits ; the inhabitants are, how ever, mostly Mongols, and the government is conducted on the same plan as that over the Kalkas tribes further north- This region is known in the histories of Central Asia under the names of Tangout, Sifan, Turfan, &c. On Chinese maps it is called Tsing hai, but in their books is named Si Yu or Si Yih, i. e. Western Limits. The borders are now limited on the north by Kansuh, south-east by Sz'chuen ; south by Anterior Tibet, and west by the desert, comprising about six degrees of latitude and longitude. PROVINCE OF KOKO-NOR. 171 It includes within its limits several large lakes, which receive rivers into their bosoms, and many of them having no outlets ; the Azure sea is the largest, but it has not been visited by travel lers, and nothing is known of its character. Chinese maps deli neate it as about one hundred and ninety miles long by sixty wide, and its borders level and settled. This extensive province is occupied by Tourgouths, Hoshoits, Kalkas, and other tribes, who are arranged under twenty-nine standards, and governed by a Manchu general residing at Sining fu in Kansuh ; many of them are clustered around the shores % of the Azure sea. West of Koko-nor, extending across Gobi to Turkestan, tribes of Eleuths, Tourbeths, and others find pasturage, the whole of them arranged under thirty-four standards. The habits of. these nomads, wan dering at their pleasure and making it difficult to restrain them, renders it almost impossible, with the little authentic information now possessed, to define their limits or ascertain their numbers. The Chinese maps are filled with the names of the tribes, but their statistical accounts are as meagre of information as the maps are deficient in accurate and satisfactory delineations. The topographical features of this region are high mountain masses with narrow valleys between them, and a few large de pressions containing lakes ; the country lying south of the Azure sea, as far as Burmah, is exceedingly mountainous. The south ern range which separates the headwaters of the Yellow river and Yangtsz' kiang, is called the Bayan kara mountains ; that north-west of this is called Kilien shan and Nan shan, and bounds the desert on the south ; between them rises the Siueh shan, or Snowy mountains, much higher than either. On the northern declivities of the Kilien range are several towns lying on or near the great western road leading across Central Asia, which leaves the valley of the Yel low river at Lanchau fu, in Kansuh, and runs N.N.W. over a rough country to Liangchau fu, a town of some importance situ ated in a fertile and populous district. From this -place it goes N.W. to Kanchau fu, noted for its manufactures of felted cloths which are in demand among the Mongol tribes of Koko-nor, and where large quantities of rhubarb are procured, besides horses, sheep, and other commodities. Going still north-west, the travel ler reaches Suh chau, the last large place before passing the Great Wall and entering the desert road, which renders, it a mart 172 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. for provisions and all articles brought from the west in exchange for the manufactures of China. About fifty miles from this town is the pass of Kiayii, beyond which the road to Hami, Oroumtsi, and lli, leads directly across the desert, here about three hun dred miles wide. This route has been for ages the line of inter nal communication between the west of China and the regions lyinrr around and in the basins of the Yarkand river and the Cas pian. A better idea of the comparative security of traffic and caravans within the empire, and consequently of the goodness of the Chinese rule, is obtained by comparing the travel on this road with the hazards, robberies, and poverty met on the great roads in Bokhara, and the regions south and west of the Belur tag. The productions of Tsing hai consist of grain and other vege tables raised along the bottoms of the rivers and margins of the lakes, sheep, cattle, horses, camels, and other animals. The yak is used extensively for carrying burdens. The Chinese have settled among the tribes, and Mohammedans of Turkish origin are found in the large towns. There are eight corps be tween Tsing hai and Uliasutai, comprising all the tribes and banners, and over which are placed as many supreme generals or commanders appointed from Peking. The leading tribes in Tsing hai are Eleuths and Tourbeths, the former of whom are the remnants of one of the most powerful tribes in Central Asia. Tangout submitted to the emperor in 1690, and its population since the incorporation has greatly increased. The trade at Sining fu is large, but not equal to that between Yunnan and Burmah at Bamo ; dates, rhubarb, chowries, precious stones, felts, cloths, &c, are among the commodities seen in the bazaar. This city lies in lat. 36° 39' N. and long. 100° 48' E., about a hundred miles east of the sea ; the department of which it is the capi tal comprises many small detached tribes within its limits, who are ruled by their own authorities, and not under such direct military sway as those living further west.* The town* lying between the Great Wall and III, though be longing to Kansuh, are more connected with the colonies in their form of government than with the Eighteen Provinces. The first town beyond the Kiayii pass is Yuh-mun hien, distant about ninety miles, and is the residence of officers, who attend to the • Chinese Repository, Vol. IX., p. 113; Vol. I., p. 118. Penny Cyclo paedia, Arts. Bat an Kara, Tangtjt. HAMI, BARKOUL, AND OROUMTSI. 173 caravans going to and from the pass. It is represented as lying near the junction of two streams, which flow northerly into the Pu-run-ki. The other district town of Tunhwang lies across a mountainous country, upwards of two hundred miles distant. The city of Ngansi chau has been built for facilitating the com munication across the desert to Hami or Kamil, the first town in Songaria, and the de"pdt of troops, arms, and munitions of war. There is a large trade at Hami, and the country around it is cul tivated by poor Mongols. Barkoul, or Chinsi fu, in latitude 43° 40' N., and longitude 94° E., is the most important place in the department ; the district is called Iho hien. A thousand Manchus, and three thousand Chinese, guard the post. The town is situated on the south of lake Barkoul, and the vicinity receives some cultivation. Hami and Turfan each form a ting district, in the south-east and west of the department. The trade at all these places consists mostly of articles of food and clothing. Oroumtsi, or Tih-hwa chau, in latitude 43° 45' N., and longi tude 89° E., is the westernmost department of Kansuh, divided into three districts, and containing many posts and settlements. In the war with the Eleuths in 1770, the inhabitants around this place were exterminated, and the country afterwards repeopled by upwards of ten thousand troops, with their families, and by exiles ; emigrants from Kansuh were also induced to settle there. The Chinese accounts speak of a high mountain near the city, always covered with ice and snow, whose base is wooded, and abounding with pheasants ; coal is also obtained in this region. The cold is great, and snow falls as late as July. Many parts produce grain and vegetables. All this department formerly constituted a portion of Songaria. The policy of the Chinese government is to induce the tribes to settle, by placing large bodies of troops with their families at all important points, and sending their exiled criminals to till the soil ; the Mongols then find an increasing demand for their cattle and other products, and are induced to become stationary to meet it. So far as is known, this policy his succeeded well in the regions beyond the Wall, now joined to Kansuh, and those around1 Koko-nor. That part of the empire called m, is a vast region lying on each side of the Celestial mountains, and including a tract nearly as large as Mongolia, and not much more susceptible of cultiva- 174 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. tion. Its limits may be stated as extending from latitude 36° to 49° N., and from longitude 71° to 96° E.. and its entire area, although difficult to estimate from its irregularity, can hardly be less than 900,000 square miles, of which Songaria occupies rather more than one third. It is divided by the Tien shan into two parts, called Lu, or Circuits, viz. the Tien-shan Peh Lu, and Tien-shan Nan Lu, or the circuits north and south of the Celestial mountains. The former is commonly designated Songaria, from the Songares or Eleuths, who ruled it till a few scores of years past, and the latter is known as Little Bokhara, or Eastern Turkestan. fli is bounded north by the Altai range, separating it from the Kirghis ; north-east by the Irtish river, and Outer Mongolia ; east and south-east by Oroumtsi and Barkoul in Kansuh ; south by the desert and the Kwanlun range ; and west by the Belur mountains, dividing it from Kokand and Badakshan. In length, the Northern Circuit extends about nine hundred miles, and the width on an average is three hundred miles. The Southern Cir cuit reaches nearly twelve hundred and fifty miles from west to east, and varies from three hundred to five hundred in breadth, as it extends to the Koulkun range on the south. There is pro bably most arable land in the Northern Circuit. Ill, taken as a whole, may be regarded as an inland isthmus, extending south-west from the south of Siberia, off between the Gobi and Caspian deserts, till it reaches the Hindu Kush, leading down to the valley of the Indus. The former of these deserts incloses it on the east and south, the other on the west and north west, separated from each other by the Belur and Muz tag ranges, which join with the Celestial mountains that divide the isthmus itself into two parts. These deserts united are equal in extent to the Sahara, but are not as arid and tenantless. This part of the world has some peculiar features which dis tinguish it from all others, among which its great elevation, its isolation in respect to its water courses, and the character of its vegetation, are the most remarkable. Songaria is especially noticeable for the many closed river basins which occur between the Altai and Celestial mountains, among the various minor ranges of hills, each of which is entirely isolated, and containing a lake, the receptacle of its drainage. The largest of these sin. gular basins is that of the river fli, or Djabkan, which runs EXTENT OF iLi. SONGARIA, 175 about three hundred miles westward, from its rise in the Celestial mountains till it falls into lake Balkash, which also receives some other streams ; the superficies of the whole basin is about forty thousand square miles, not far from the area of Tennessee. The other lakes lie north-eastward of Balkash ; the largest of them are the Dzaisang, which receives the Irtish, the Kisilbash, into which the Urungu flows, and four or five smaller ones between them, lying north of the city of Iii. The basin of lake Temurtu, or Issikul, lies in the south-western part of this Circuit ; this sheet of water is fresh, about one hundred miles long, and thirty- five wide ; its superabundant waters flow off through the Chui In into the Kirghis stepp. Little is known concerning the topography, the productions, or the civilization of the tribes who inhabit much of Songaria, but the efforts of the Chinese government have been systematically directed to developing its agricultural resources, by stationing bodies of troops in every part, who cultivate the soil, and banish ing criminals there, who are obliged to work for and assist the troops. It gives one a higher idea of the rulers of China, them selves wandering nomads originally, when they are seen carrying on such a plan for developing the capabilities of these remote parts of their empire, and teaching, partly by force, partly by bribes, and partly by example, the Mongol tribes under them the advantages of a settled life. The productions of Songaria are numerous. Wheat, barley, rice, and millet, are the chief corn stuffs ; tobacco, cotton, melons, and some fruits, are grown ; herds of horses, camels, cattle, and sheep, afford means of locomotion and food to the people, while the mountains and lakes supply game and fish. The inhabitants are composed mostly of Eleuths, with a tribe of Tourgouths, and remnants of the Songares, together with Mongols, Manchus, and Chinese troops, settlers and criminals. Tien-shan Peh Lu is divided by the Chinese into three com- manderies, TU on the west^Tarbagatai on the north, and Kur-kara usu on the east between Iii and Uroumtsi, in Kansuh. The go vernment of the North and South Circuits is under the control of Manchu military officers residing at Iii. This city, called by the Chinese Hwuiyuen ching, and Gouldja or Kuldsha, and Kura by the natives, lies on the north bank of the Iii river, in latitude 43° 46' N. and longitude 82£° E. ; it contains about 176 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. fifty thousand inhabitants, and carries on considerable trade with China through the cities in Kansuh and also with other towns. It is inclosed by a stone wall, and contains barracks, forts, gra naries, and public offices for the use of government. It is stated in Chinese works that when Amursana, the discontented chief of the Songares, applied in 1775 to Kienlung for assistance against his rival Tawats or Davatsi, and was sent back with a Chinese army, in the engagements which ensued, more than a million of people were destroyed, and the whole country depopulated. At that time, Kuldsha was built by Kienlung, and soon became a place of note. Outside of the town are the barracks for the troops, which consist of Eleuths and Mohammedans as well as Manchus and Chines?. Coal is found in this region, and most of the inland rivers produce abundance of fish, while wild ani mals and birds are numerous. The resources of the country are, however, insufficient to meet the expenses of the military establishment and the presents made to the begs, and the deficit is supplied from China. Subordinate to the control of the commandant at Kuldsha are nine garrisoned places situated in the same valley, at each of which are bodies of Chinese convicts. The two remaining dis tricts of Tarbagatai and Kur-kara usu are small compared with III ; the first lies between Cobdo and the Kirghis stepp, and is inhabited mostly by emigrants from the stepps of the latter, who render merely a nominal subjection to the gar risons placed over them. The Tourgouths, who emigrated from Russia in 1772 into China are located in this district and Cobdo. In the war with the Songares, many of the people fled from the valley of Iii to this region, and after that country was settled, they submitted to the emperor, and partly returned to III. The chief town, called Tuguchuk by the Kirghis, and Suitsing ching by the Chinese, is situated not far from the south ern base of the Tarbagatai mountains, and contains about six hundred houses, half of which belong to the garrison. It is one of the nine fortified towns under the Antrol of the commandant at Kuldsha, and a place of some trade with the Kirghis. There are two residents stationed here with high powers to oversee the trade and intercourse across the frontier, but their duties are inferior in importance lo those at Kurun. There are about 2500 Manchu and Chinese troops at this post, and since the conquest TARBAGATAI AND KUR-KARA USU. 177 of the country in 1772 by Kienlung, its agricultural products have gradually increased under the industry of the Chinese. The tribes dwelling in this distant province are restricted within certain limits, and their obedience secured by presents. The climate of Tarbagatai is changeable, and the cold weather com prises more than half the year. The basin of lake Alakul, or Alaktukul, occupies the south-west, and part of the Irtish and lake Dzaisang the north-east, so that it is well watered. The trade consists chiefly of domestic animals and cloths. Kur-kara usu lies on the river Kur, north-east from Kuldsha, and on the road between it and Uroumtsi ; it is called Kingsui ching by the Chinese. The number of troops stationed at all these posts is estimated at sixty thousand, and the total population of Songaria under two millions. The Tien-shan Nan Lu, or Southern Circuit of Iii, the territory of " the eight Mohammedan cities," was named Sin Kiang (or New Frontier) by Kienlung, and has been called Little Bokhara and Chinese or Eastern Turkestan, by foreigners. It is less fertile than the Northern Circuit,*the greatest part of its area consisting of rugged mountains or barren wastes, barely afford ing subsistence for herds of cattle and goats. The principal boundaries are the Kwanlun mountains, and the desert, separat ing it from Tibet on the south ; Ladak lies on the south-west, and Badakshan and Kokand are separated from it on the west and north-west by the Belur tag. The greater part of this Circuit is occupied with the basin of the Tarim, which flows from the Belur range in four principal branches, called from the towns lying upon their banks the Yarkand, Kashgar, Oksu, and Khoten rivers, and running east ward, receives several affluents from the north and south, and falls into lake Lop, in longitude 38° E., after a course, including windings, of between 1300 and 1x500 miles. This lake lies on the edge of the desert, in an uninhabited region, and surrounded by extensive swamps, which extend also west along the Tarim to its junction with the Kaidu. No other river basins of any size are found within the Circuit, except a large tributary called the Kaidu, which, draining a parallel, valley north of Lop nor, two hundred miles long, runs into a lake nearly as large, called Bostang nor, from which an outlet on the south continues it into the Tarim, about eighty miles from its mouth. The tribu 9* 178 THE MIDDLE kingdom. taries of this river are represented as much more serviceable for agricultural purposes than the main trunk is for navigation. The plain through which the Tarim flows is about two hundred miles broad and not far from nine hundred miles long, most of it unfit for cultivation or pasturage. The desert extends con siderably west of the two lakes. The climate of this region is exceedingly dry, and its barrenness is owing, apparently, more to the want of moisture than to the nature of the soil. The* western parts are much colder than those towards Kansuh, the river being passable on ice at Yarkand, in latitude 38°, for three months, while frost is hardly known at Hami, in latitude 42°- The productions of the valley of the Tarim comprise most of the grains and fruits found in southern Europe ; the sesa- mum is cultivated for oil instead of the olive. Few trees or shrubs cover the" mountain acclivities or plains. All the domes tic animals abound, except the hog, which is reared in small numbers by tbe Chinese. The camel and yak are raised for food and service, and their pelage affords both skins and. hair for garments. The horse, earned black cattle, ass, and sheep, are found wild on the edge of the desert, where they procure a pre carious subsistence. The mountains and marshes contain jackals, tigers, bears, wolves, lynxes, and deer, together with some large species of birds of prey. Gold, copper, and iron are brought from this region, but the amount is npt large, and as articles of trade they are less important than the sal-ammoniac, saltpetre, sulphur, and asbestos obtained from the volcanic region in the east of the Celestial mountains. The best specimens of the yuh or nephrite, so highly prized by the Chinese, are obtained in the Southern Circuit. The present divisions of this Circuit are regulated by the position of the eight Mohammedan cities. The western depart ments of Kansuh naturally belong to the same region, and the cities now pertaining to that province are inhabited by much the same races, and governed in the same feudal manner, with some advantages in consideration of their early submission to Kienlung. The first town on the road, of note, is Hami ; Turfan and Pidshan are less important' as trading posts than as garri sons. The eight cities are named in the Statistics of the Em pire in the following order, beginning at the east : Harashar, Kuche, Ushi (including Sairim and Bai), Oksu, Khoten, Yarkand, CITIES IN THE SOUTHERN CIRCUIT. 179 Cashgar, and Yingkeshar. The superior officers live at Yarkand, but the Southern Circuit is divided into four minor governments at Harashar, Ushi, Yarkand, and Khoten, each of whose residents reports both to Kuldsha and Peking. Harashar lies on the Kaidu river, not far from lake Bostang, about two hundred and ninety miles west of Turfan, in lat. 42° 15' N., and long. 87° E. It is a large district, and has two towns of some note within the jurisdiction of its officers, — namely, Kurli and Bukur. Harashar is fortified, and from its being a secure position, and the seat of the chief resident, attracts con siderable trade. The embroidery is superior ; but the tribes living in the district are more addicted to hunting than disposed to sedentary trades. Kurli lies south-west of Harashar on the Kaidu, between lakes Bostang and Lop, and the productions of the town and its vicinity indicate a fertile soil ; the Chinese say the Mohammedans who live here are fond of singing, but have no ideas of ceremony or urbanity. Bukur lies two hundred miles w^st of Kurli, and " might be a rich and delicious coun try," says the Chinese account, " but those idle, vagrant Mo hammedans only use their strength in theft and plunder ; the women blush at nothing." The town formerly contained up wards of ten thousand inhabitants, but Kienlung nearly destroyed it ; the district has been since resettled by Hoshoits, Tourbeths, and Turks, and the people carry on some trade in the produce of their herds, lynx skins and other peltry, copper, and agates. Kuche, about one hundred miles west from Bukur, lat. 41° 37' N., and long. 82° 55' E., is a larger and more important city than that or Harashar, for the road which crosses the Tien shan by the pass Muz-daban to fli, here joins that coming from Oksu on the west and Hami on the east. It is three miles in circuit, and is defended by ten forts and three hundred troops. The bazaars contain grain, fruits, and vegetables, raised in the vicinity by great labor, for the land requires to be irri- gated by hand from wells, pools, and streams. Copper, sulphur, and saltpetre are carried across to Iii, for use of government as well as traffic, being partly levied from the inhabitants as taxes ; linen is manufactured in the town, and sal ammoniac, cinna bar, and quicksilver are procured from the mountains. Kuche is considered the gate of Turkestan, and is the chief town, poli tically speaking, between Hami and Yarkand. The district 180 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. and town of Shayar lie south of Kuche, in a marshy valley pro ducing abundance of rice, melons, and fruit ; the pears are par ticularly good. The population is about four thousand, ruled by begs subordinate to the general at Kuche. The valley of the Oksu contains two large towns, Oksu and Ushi, besides several posts and villages. Between the former and Kuche, lie the small garrisons and districts of Bai and Sai- rim. The first contains from four to five hundred families, ruled by their own chiefs. Sairim or Hanlemuh is subordinate to Ushi in some degree, but its productions, climate, and inhabitants are like those of Kuche. " Their manners are simple," remarks a Chinese writer, speaking of the people ; " they are neither cow ards nor rogues like the other Mohammedans ; they are fond of singing, drinking, and dancing, like those of Kuche'." Oksu is a large commercial and manufacturing town, containing twenty thousand inhabitants, situated, like Kuche, at the termination of a road leading across the Tien shan to lli, and attracting to its market traders from Siberia, Bokhara, and Kokand, as well as along the great road. Its manufactures of cotton, silk, leather, harnesses, crockery, precious stones, and metals are good, and sent abroad in great numbers. The country produces grain, fruits, vegetables, and cattle in perfection, and the people are more civilized than those on the east and north ; '• they are gene rous and noble, and both sing and ridicule the oddities and nig gardliness of the other Mohammedans." The Chinese garrison consists of three thousand soldiers, and the officers are account able to those at Ushi. Ushi lies higher up the valley, in lat. 41° 35' N. and long. 77° 50' E., and is stated to contain ten thousand inhabitants. It is called Yungning ching (i. e. city of Eternal Tranquillity) in Chinese, a name given it by Kienlung. The officers stationed here report to the commandant at lli, but they communicate directly with Peking, and receive the emperor's sanction to their choice of begs, and to the envoys to be sent to the capital. with tribute. Copper money is cast here in ingots, somewhat like the ingots of sycee in the provinces. There are six forts attached to Ushi, to keep in order the wandering tribes of the Kirghis, called Pruth Kirghis, which roam over the frontier regions be tween Ushi and Yarkand. They pay homage to the officers at Ushi, but give no tribute. Those who do pay tribute are taxed USHi, KASHGAR, AND YARKAND. 181 a tenth, but the Kirghis on this frontier are usually allowed to roam where they like, provided they keep the peace. This re gion was nearly depopulated by Kienlung's generals, and at pre sent supports a sparse population compared with its fertility and resources. The large town of Kashgar is situated at the north-western angle of the Southern Circuit, on the Kashgar river, in latitude 39° 25' N. and longitude 75° E., at the extreme west of the empire. Several roads meet here. Going in a north-west direction, one leads over the Celestial mountains to Kokand ; a second passes south, through Yarkand and Khoten, to Ceh and Cashmere ; a third, the great caravan route, from China through Ushi, may be said to end here ; and the fourth and most fre quented, leads off north-east over the Tien shan through the Rowat pass, and along the western banks of lake Issikul to Iii. The trade thus concentrated here renders Kashgar the emporium of the commerce of Central Asia ; its population is estimated at eighty thousand, consisting of representatives from all parts of the empire and the valley of the Caspian, Russians, Tibetans, Affghans, and Sikhs. In the middle of the town is a large square, and four bazaars branch from it through to the gates ; the garrison is placed with out the walls. The manufactures of Kashgar excel those of any other town in the two Circuits, especially" in jade, gold, silk, cotton, gold andsilver cloths, and carpets. The taxes are sent to III. The country around produces fruit and grain in abun dance ; " the manners of the people have an appearance of elegance and politeness," says the Chinese geographer ; " the women dance and sing in family parties ; they fear and respect the officers, and have not the wild uncultivated aspect of those in Ushi." Several towns were formerly subordinate to Kashgar, but since the rebellion of 1827, its political importance has gone, and with that much of the trade, to Yarkand. South-west from it is Tashbalig, and on the road leading to Yarkand, is Yengi hissar or Yingkeshar, both of them towns of some importance ; the latter contains a garrison. Yarkand, or Yerkiang, may be termed the capital of the South ern Circuit, as the highest military officers and strongest force are stationed here. It lies on that river in latitude 38° 19' N., and longitude 76° 10' E., and its streets and environs are abun- 1Q2 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. dantly supplied with water by canals. The stone walls are three miles in circumference, but the suburbs are much larger ; the houses are built of dried bricks, and the town has a more substantial appearance than others in 111. There are many mosques and colleges, which, with the public buildings occupied by the government and troops, add to its consideration. The troops, seven thousand in number, are under the control of the commandant, and are scattered in detachments in and around the city ; the population is unknown, but doubtless exceeds 200,000. The principal articles of trade are horses, silk, and wool, and fabrics made from them ; but everything found at Kashgar is sold also at Yarkand. Many merchants from Shensi, Kansuh, and Sz'chuen, are established in both places, and the convicts sent to Iii usually settle in the trading towns as craftsmen or agriculturists. In a Chinese notice of the city, the customs at Yarkand are stated to yield over $45,000 annually ; the taxes are 35,409 sacks of grain, 57,569 pieces of linen, 15,000 lbs. of copper, besides gold, silk, varnish, and hemp, part of which are carried to 111. Jade is obtained from the river in large pieces, yellow, white, black, and reddish, and the articles made from it are carried to China. The Chinese authorities stationed here are very careful not to admit Europeans, but seem to have no objection to the resort of natives of Kokand, Cashmere, and other neighboring states, many of whom settle and marry. The contrast be tween the turbulence and insecurity of those countries, and the comparative quiet, efficient government of the Chinese, bad as their rule is generally, is not lost upon the natives of the Mo hammedan states, and the great mass of their people would be glad to become subjects of Taukwang. Khoten is situated on the southern side of the desert, and the district embraces all the country south of Oksu and Yarkand, along the northern base of the Koulkun mountains, for more than three hundred miles from east to west. The town is called flchi on Chinese maps, and lies in an extensive plain on the Khoten river in latitude 37° N., and longitude S0° 35' E. The town of Karakash lies a few miles north-west in the same valley, and is said by traders to be the capital rather than flchi ; it lies on the road to Yarkand, distant twelve days' journey. The town of Gummi is also placed on this road, whose chief had in KHOTEN AND ITS CITIES. 183 his possession a stone supposed to have the power of causing rain. The town of Kirrea lies five days' journey east of Ilchi, near the pass across the mountains into Tibet and Ladak ; a gold mine is worked near this place, the produce of which is monopolized by the Chinese. The three towns of Karakash, Ilchi, and Kirrea, are the only places of importance between the valley of the Tarim and Tibet, but none of them have been visited for a long time by Europeans. The population of the town or district is unknown ; one notice* gives it a very large number, approaching three millions and even more, which at any rate indicates a more fertile soil and genial climate than the regions north and south of it. Dr. Morrison, in his View of China, puts it at 44,630 inhabitants ; and although the former includes the whole district and is probably too large, the second seems to be much too small. The eastern part of Khoten is marshy, but the whole country must have a high elevation, from the fact that the river which drains and connects it with the Tarim runs quite across the desert in its course. The country is governed by two high officers and a detachment of troops ; there are six towns under their jurisdiction, the inhabitants of which are ruled in the same manner as the other Mohammedan cities. The people, how ever, are said to be mostly of the Budhist faith, and the Chinese give a good account of their peacefulness and industry. The trade with Leh and H'lassa is carried on by a road crossing the Koulkun by the Kirrea pass, beyond which it divides. The productions of Khoten are fine linen and cotton stuffs, jade orna ments, copper, grain, fruits, and vegetables ; the former for exportation, the latter for use. It is supposed that the English word cotton is derived from the name of this city. Remusat published an account of this country in 1820, drawn from Chinese books, in which the principal events in its history are stated, commencing with the Han dynasty before the Chris tian era down to the Manchu conquest. In the early part of its history, Khoten was the resort of many priests from India, and the Budhist faith was early established there. It was an inde pendent kingdom most of the time from its earliest mention to the era of Genghis khan, the princes sometimes extending their * Penny Cyclopsedia, Art. Thian shan nan mt. 184 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. sway from ths KiayQ pass and Koko-nor to the Tsung ling, and then obliged to contract to the valley now designated as Khoten. After the expulsion of the Mongols from China, Khoten assert ed its independence, but afterwards fell under the sway of the Songares and Eleuths, and lost many of its inhabitants. The Manchus conquered it in 1770, when the rest of the region be tween the Tien shan and Kwiinlun fell under their sway, but they have not settled in it to the same extent, or made it a penal settlement as they have other parts of Iii. The government of Iii differs in some respects from that of Mongolia, where religion is partly called in to aid the state. In the Northern Circuit, the authority is strictly military, exercised b3r means of residents and generals, with bodies of troops under their control. The supreme command of all fli is intrusted by the Colonial Office to a Manchu tsiangkiun or military governor- general at Kuldsha, who has under him two councillors to take cognisance of civil cases, and thirty-four residents scattered about in both Circuits. This governor has also the control of the troops stationed in the three western departments of Kansuh, but has nothing to do with the civil jurisdiction of those towns. The entire number of troops under his hand is stated at 60,000, most of whom have families, and add agricultural, mechanical, or other labors to the profession of arms. The councillors are not altogether subordinate to the general, but report to the Colonial Office. In the Northern Circuit, there is a deputy appointed for every village and town, invested with military powers over the troops and convicts, and civil supervision over the native piko or chief tains, who are the real rulers acknowledged by the clans. The character of the inhabitants north of the Tien shan is rendered unlike that of those dwelling in the Southern Circuit, not more by the diversity in their language and nomadic habits, than by the sway religious rites and allegiance have over them. Through this latter motive, the government of Mongolia and the Northern Circuit is rendered far easier and more effectual for the distant court of Peking than it otherwise would be. The appointment of the native chieftains is first announced to the general at Kuld sha and the Colonial Office, and they succeed to their post when confirmed, which, as the station is in a measure hereditary, usu ally follows in course. GOVERNMENT OF 1L1. 185 The inhabitants of the Southern Circuit are Mohammedans, and acknowledge a less willing' subjection to the emperor than those in the Northern ; the differences in religion and language are probably the leading reasons. The government of the whole region is divided among the Manchu residents or ambans at tho eight cities, who are nominally responsible to the general at Iii, and independent of each other, but there seems to be a gradation in their rank and power, the one at Yarkand having the priority. The begs are chosen by the tribes themselves, and exercise authority in all petty cases arising among the people, without the interference of the Chinese. The troops are all Manchu or Chinese, none of the Turks being enrolled in separate bodies, though individuals are employed with safety. There is con siderable difference in the rank and influence of the begs, which is upheld and respected by the ambans. The allowances and style granted them are regulated in a measure by their feudal importance. The revenue is derived from a monthly capitation tax on each man of about half a dollar, and tithes on the pro duce ; there are no transit duties as in China, but custom-houses are established at the frontier trading towns. The language generally used in the Southern Circuit is the Jaghatai Turki of the Kalmucks ; the Usbecks constitute the majority of the peo ple, but Eleuths and Kalmucks are everywhere intermixed. The Tibetans have settled in Khoten, Tir more probably, rem nants still exist there of the former inhabitants. The history of the vast region constituting the present govern. ment of Iii early attracted the attention of oriental scholars, and few portions of the world have had a more exciting history. After the expulsion of the Mongols from China by Hungwu, a. d. 1366, they found that they, as a tribe, were inferior in power to the western tribes, but it was not till about 1080 that the Eleuths, north of the Tien shan under the Galdan, began to attack the Kalkas, and drive them eastward. The Sunnites, Tsakhars, and Solons, portions of the Eastern Mongols, had already joined the Manchus ; and the Kalkas, to avoid extermi nation, submitted to them also, and besought their assistance against the Eleuths. Kanghi received their allegiance, and tried to settle the difficulties peaceably, but was obliged to send his troops against the Galdan, and drive him from the territory of the Kalkas to the westward of Lop nor and Barkoul. The em- 186 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. peror was materially aided in this enterprise by the secession from the Eleuths of the Songares, whose khan had taken offence, and drawn his hordes off to the south. The khans of the Kalkas and their vast territory, thus became subject to the Chinese. The Galdan lost all his forces, and died by poison, in 1697, his power dying with him, and his tribe having already become too weak to resist. Upon the ruins of his power arose that of Arabdan, the khan of the Songares. He subjugated the Northern Circuit, passed over into Turkestan, Tangout, and Khoten, and gradually re duced to his sway nearly all the elevated region of Central Asia west of Kansuh. He expelled the Tourgouths from their pos sessions in Cobdo, and compelled them to retreat to the banks of the Wolga. Kanghi expelled the Songares from the districts about Koko-nor, but made no impression upon their authority in Songaria. After the death of Arabdan, about 1720, his throne was disputed, and the power weakened by dissensions among his sons, so that it was seized by two usurpers, Amursana and Tawats, who also fell out after their object was gained. Amur sana repaired to Peking for assistance, and with the aid of a Chinese army expelled Tawats, and took possession of the throne of Arabdan. But he had no intention of becoming a vassal to Kienlung, and was no seoner reinstated than he resisted him ; he defeated two Chinese armies sent against him, but succumbed on the third attack, and fled to Tobolsk, where he died in 1757. The territory of Arabdan then fell to Kienlung, and he pursued his successes with such cruelty that the Northern Circuit was nearly depopulated, and the Songares and Eleuths became almost extinct as distinct tribes. The banished tribe of Tourgouths was then invited by the emperor to return from Russian sway to their ancient possessions, which they accepted in 1772 ; the history of the Chinese embassy to them, and their disastrous journey back to Cobdo over the Kirghis stepp, and through the midst of their enemies, is one of the most remarkable instances of nomadic wanderings in modern times. Chinese troops, emigrants, exiles, and nomadic tribes and families, were sent and encouraged to come into the vacant territory, so that erelong it began to resume its former importance. In the period which has since elapsed, the Manchus have been enabled to prevent any combination among the tribes, and maintain their own authority by a mixed HISTORY AND CONQUEST OF llS. 187 system of coercion and coaxing which they well know how to practise. The agricultural and mineral resources of the country have been developed, many of the nomads induced to attend to agriculture by making their chieftains emulous of each other's prosperity, and by exciting a spirit of traffic among all. There have been some disturbances from time to time, but no master spirit has arisen who has been able to unite the tribes againstrthe Chinese. In 1825, there was an attempt made from Kokand by Jehangir, grandson of the kojeh or prince of Kashgar, to regain possession of Turkestan ; the khan of Kokand assisted him with a small army, and such was their dislike of the Chinese, that as soon as Jehangir appeared, the Mohammedans arose and drove the Chinese troops away or put them to death, opening the gates to the invader. He took possession of Yarkand and Kashgar, and advanced to Oksu, where the winter put a stop to the campaign. In the next year, the khan of Kokand, seeing the disposition of the people, thought he would embark himself in the same cause, and made an incursion as far as Oksu and Khoten, reducing more than half the Southern Circuit to himself, but ostensibly in aid of Jehangir. The kojeh, beginning to fear his aid, withdrew ; and the khan, having suffered some reverses from the Chinese troops, made his peace. on very favorable terms, and returned to his own country. Jehangir went to Khoten from Yarkand, but his conduct there displeasing the people, the Chinese troops, about 60,000 in number, had no difficulty in dispersing his force, and resuming their sway. The adherents of the kojeh fled towards Badakshan, while he himself repaired to Isaac, the newly appointed kojeh of Kashgar, by whom he was delivered up to the Chinese with his family, and all of them most barbarously destroyed. The kojeh was rewarded with the office of prince of Kashgar, but having been accused of treasonable designs he was ordered to come to Peking for trial ; the charges were all disproved, and he returned to Kashgar after several years' residence at the capital. The country was gradually reduced by Changling, the general at fli, but Kashgar suffered so much by the war and removal of the chief authority to Yarkand, that it has not since regained its importance. During this war, the dislike of the Mohammedans to the Chinese sway was exhibited in the large forces Jehangir brought into the field ; and if he had been a popular spirited 188 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. leader, there is reason for supposing he might have finally wrested these cities from the Chinese. The joy of Taukwang at the successful termination of the expedition and capture of the rebel, was so extravagant as to appear childish ; and when Jehangir was executed at Peking, he ordered the sons of two officers who had been reported killed, " to witness his execution, in order to give expansion to the indignation which had accumu lated in their breasts ; and let the rebel's heart be torn out and given to them to sacrifice it at the tombs of their fathers, and thus console their faithful spirits." Honors were heaped upon Changling at his return to Peking, and rewards and titles showered upon all the troops engaged in the war. Since this insurrection, the frontiers of Kashgar and Kokand have been passed and repassed by the Pruth Kirghis ; and in 1830, they excited so much trouble because their trade was restricted, that a large force was called out to restrain them, and many lives were lost before the rising was subdued. The causes of the dispute were then examined, and the trade allowed to go on as before. The oppressions of the residents sometimes goad on the Mohammedans to rise against the Chinese, but the policy of the emperor is conciliatory, and the complaints of the people are listened to. The visits of the begs and princes to Peking with tribute affords them an opportunity to state their grievances, while it also prevents them from caballing among themselves. The salaries of the governor-general and his councillors, and the residents, are small, and they are all obliged to resort to illegal means to reimburse their outlays. The highest officer receives about $5200 annually, and his councillors about $2000 ; the residents from .$2300 down to $500 and less. These sums do not, probably, constitute one tenth of the receipts of their situations.* The third great division of the colonial part of the Chinese empire,, that of Tibet, is less known than fli, though its area is hardly less extensive. It constitutes the most southern of the three great table lands of Central Asia, and is surrounded with high mountains which separate it from all the contiguous regions. The name Tibet or Tubet is corrupted from Tu po, the country * Chinese Repository, Vol. V, pages 267, 316, 351, &c. ; Vol. IX., page 113. Penny Cyclopaedia, Art. Songaria. NAMES and extent OF TIBET. 189 of the Tu, a race which overran it in the sixth century ; another name, according to Turner, is Pue-koachim, signifying the "snowy country of the north;" but Csoma, who lived there some years, says the people call it Pot or Bod, or Bodyul, — "the land of Bod." The Chinese call the whole country Si Tsang, and divide it into Tsien Tsang or Anterior Tibet, and Hau Tsang or Ulterior Tibet. It is bounded north-east by Koko-nor ; east by Sz'chuen and Yunnan; south by Assam, Butan, Nipal, Delhi, and Lahore ; west by Ladak, Badakshan, and Bokhara ; and north by Gobi and Khoten. The southern frontier curves considerably in its course, but is not less than 1500 miles from the western extremity of Nipal to the province of Yunnan ; the northern border is about 1300 miles ; the eastern and western frontiers cannot be accurately calculated, but are not less than 300 miles. Beltistan, Little Tibet, and Ladak, although included in its limits on Chinese maps, have too little subjection or connexion with the court of Peking, to be reckoned among its dependencies. Tibet, in its largest limits, is a table land, the highest plains of which are about lT),000 feet high, and divided by mountain chains into three distinct parts. The western one consists of the valley of the Indus, until it breaks through into Cashmere and the plains of the Punjab. It begins near Mt. Kailasa, and stretches north-west between the Hindu Kush and Himalaya, comprising the whole of Beltistan and Ladak ; the Tsung ling defines it on the north-east. The second part consists of an extensive desert land, commencing at mount Kailasa, and having the Tsung ling on the west, the Koulkun on the north, which separates it from Khoten, and the high watershed of the Yangtsz' kiang, Salween, and other rivers, and lake Tengkiri, on the east ; the Himalaya con- stitutes its southern boundary. This high region, called Katshe or Kor-kachi, has never been traversed by intelligent travellers. Mountains stretch across it, and many rivers and lakes are found within their defiles. It is so cold that few inhabitants can live in its northern portions. The eastern part consists of the valley of the Yaru-tsangbu, which commencing in Ari about 80° E., gradually widens as it goes eastward, containing in its plains most of the towns in Tibet, until it reaches the alpine region which lies between Butan, Burmah, and Yunnan. This part of the country consists of a succession of ridges and peaks, some of which are among the 190 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. highest in the world, and the traveller crosses the narrow valleys by ropes and bridges enveloped in the clouds. Mount Kailasa, one of the highest peaks, lying in the north-eastern part of Ari, is not far from 26,000 feet high. The number of peaks covered with perpetual snow is not known, but exceeds that of any other part of the world of the same extent. The road from Sz'chuen to H'lassa strikes the Yahlung kiang, in the district of Ta-tsien-lu, and then goes south-westerly to Patang on the Yangtsz' kiang ; crossing the river it proceeds up the narrow valley a short distance, and then crosses over the mountains north-west to the Lantsan kiang or Meikon, by a series of pathways leading over the gorges, till it reaches Tsiamdo ; from this point, the road turns gradually south-west, following the valleys when practicable till it ends at H'lassa.; The largest river in Tibet is the Dzangbu, Erechumbu, or Yarn. tsangbu. It rises in the Tamchuk hills in Ari, not more than a hundred miles east of the headwaters of the Indus, and flows a little south of east for about seven hundred miles, through the whole of southern Tibet, between the Himalaya and Dzang mountains, as far as latitude 28° N. Its tributaries on the north are numerous, and among them the Nauk-tsangbu and Dzangtsu are the largest. The volume of water which flows through the mountains into Assam by this river, is equal to that by the Indus into Scinde. It is still a disputed question, whether the Yaru- tsangbu joins the Brahmaputra or Irrawaddy, but the weight of geographical evidence, and the size of the rivers, is greatly in favor of the former. This will make the Brahmaputra the largest and longest river in southern Asia ; its passage into Assam is near 95° E. longitude. The eastern part of Tibet, beyond this meridian, is traversed by numerous ranges of lofty mountains, having no separate names, the direction of which is from west to east, and from north-west to south-east. From these ranges, lateral branches run out in different directions, containing deep valleys between them. In proportion as the principal chains advance towards the south-east they converge towards one another, and thus the valleys between them gradually become narrower, until $t last, on the frontiers of Yunnan and Burmah, they are mere mountain passes, whose entire breadth does not much exceed a hundred miles, having four streams flowing through them. In fact, Tibet in- RIVERS AND LAKES OF TIBET. 191 closes the fountain heads of all the large rivers of southern and eastern Asia ; and, besides them, the Indus and its greatest branch, the Satlej, the Ganges and Brahmaputra, the Yellow river and some of their largest tributaries, also have their sources in its borders. The names and courses of all the rivers in east ern Tibet are known chiefly from Chinese maps, but others have described them after their entrance into the lowlands. Tibet, especially the central part, is a country of lakes, in this respect resembling Cobdo. The largest is Tengkiri nor, situated in the midst of stupendous mountains, about one hundred and ten miles north-west of H'lassa. It receives a small river on the west called Tarku ; this lake is over a hundred miles long and about thirty wide. The region north of it contains many isolated lakes, and Chinese maps place the headwaters of the Nu kiang in the mountains on its east. Two of the largest, the Bouka and Kara, are represented as connected with that stream. Most of the isolated lakes are salt. The Yamorouk or Yarbrokyu, some times called Palti from a town on its northern shore, is a large lake south of -H'lassa, remarkable for its ring shape, the centre being filled by a large island, around which its waters flow in a channel thirty miles or more in width. On the island is a nun nery, called the Palace of the Holy Sow, said to be the finest in the country. In Little Tibet, south of Khoten, are many lakes, the largest of which, the Yik and Paha, are connected by a river flowing through a marshy country. The sacred lakes of Manasa- rowa and Ravan-hrad, or Mapam-dalai and Langga nor, of the Chinese, form the headwaters of the Indus ; they lie near each other, and their outlet unites with two other streams to form that river. The Manasa-rowa is said to be next in size to lake Tengkiri, but is probably inferior to lakes Paha orYih. The climate of Tibet is characterized by its purity and exces sive dryness. The valleys are hot, notwithstanding their prox imity to snow-capped mountains ; from May to October the sky is clear in the table lands, and in the valleys the moisture and temperature are favorable to vegetation, the harvest being ga thered before the gales and snows set in, which are after October. The effects of the air resemble or are worse than those of the kamsin in Egypt. The trees wither, and their leaves may be ground to powder between the fingers ; planks and beams break, and the inhabitants cover the timbers and wood-work of their 192 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. houses with coarse cottons, in order to preserve them against the destructive saccidity. The timber neither rots nor is worm-eaten. Mutton, exposed to the open air, becomes so dry that it may be powdered like bread ; when once dried it is preserved during years. This flesh-bread is a common food in Tibet. The car case of the animal, divested of its skin and viscera, is placed where the frosty air will have free access to it, until all the juices of the body dry up, and the whole becomes one stiffened mass. No salt is used, nor does it ever become tainted, and is eaten without anv further dressing or cooking ; the natives eat it at all periods after it is frozen, and prefer the fresh to that which has been kept some months. The productions of Tibet consist principally of domestic and wild animals, and few plants or forests, presenting a strong con trast with Nipal and Butan, where vegetable life flourishes more luxuriantly. Sheep and goats are reared in immense flocks, for their flesh, hair, and coats ; the yak, or grunting ox, is used for carriage, and its milk and flesh reward the care of its owners; all other domestic animals, including neat cattle, horses, buffaloes, etc., are common. Vixk ; or, Grunting Os. PRODUCTIONS OF TIBET. 193 There is comparatively little agriculture ; flocks and herds supply more food than the farm. The variety of wild animals, birds, and fishes, is very great ; among them the musk deer, feline animals,' eagles, and wild sheep, are objects of the chase. The brute creation are generally clothed with an abundance of fine hair or wool ; even the horses have a more shaggy coat than is granted to bears in more genial climes. The musk deer is clothed with a thick covering of hair two or three inches long, standing erect over the whole body ; the animal resembles a hog in size and form, but the legs are slender. The Tibetan goat affords the shawl wool, which is so highly prized for the manufacture of garments, and exported to China and India. Fruits are common ; pomegranates, peaches, oranges, figs, grapes, apples, and nuts, constitute the limited variety. Barley is raised more than any other grain, and the principal part of agricultural labors is performed by the women. Peas and other pulse and wheat are cultivated, but no rice west of H'lassa ; this grain can only be raised along the bottoms. Rhubarb, assa- fistida, ginger, madder, and safflower are collected or prepared, but most of the medicines come from China and Butan. Tur nips, onions, and melons are raised in small quantities. The trees are few in number and small in height, rarely rising into forests. The mineral productions are exceedingly rich. Gold is found in the beds of streams, and forms a constant article of export ; lead, silver, copper, and cinnabar are also dug out of the ground, but iron has not been found to much extent. The great difficulty in the way of the inhabitants availing themselves of their metallic wealth, apart from their ignorance of the best modes of mining, is the want of fuel to smelt the ore. Tincal or orude borax is gathered on the borders of a small lake in the neighborhood of Tengkiri lake, where also rock salt can be obtained to any extent. Precious stones are found, most of which find their way to China. The present divisions of Tibet, according to the Chinese sta tistical works, are Tsien Tsang, or Anterior Tibet, and Hau Tsang, or Ulterior Tibet. Anterior Tibet is also called Wei or Wei Tsang, and was formerly divided into Kham and Wei, the first being called Anterior and the second Central Tibet. Ulte rior Tibet is also divided into Tsang and Ari.* These divisions * Chinese Repository, Vol. XIII., page 505. 10 194 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. are usually found on European maps ; Csoma says the country is divided by the inhabitants into Kham-yul or Eastern Tibet, called also Pot-chen or Great Tibet, Wei Tsang or Tibet Proper, and Ari or Nari, including north-western Tibet. The Chinese books mention eight cantons in Anterior Tibet, five of them lying east of H'lassa, added to which are thirty-nine feudal townships in the north called lu-sz', bordering on similar townships in Koko- nor and Sz'chuen. Csoma de Koros mentions several small principalities in Kham, and describes the inhabitants as differing very much from the rest of the Tibetans in appearance and lan guage ; they assimilate probably with the characteristics of the tribes on the Burman and Chinese frontiers. H'lassa, the capital of Tibet, is situated on the Dzangtsu, about twelve leagues from its junction with the Yaru-tsangbu, in lat. 29° 30' N., and long. 91° 40' E., and is the largest town in this part of Asia. It is famous for the convents in and near it, composing the ecclesiastical establishments of the dalai-lama, whose personal residence is in the convent of Pobrang-marbu (i. e. Red town) on mount Botala. The principal building of this establishment is three hundred and sixty-seven feet high, and it contains, as the Chinese expression is, " a myriad of rooms." This city is the head-quarters of Budhism, and the hierarchy of lamas, who, by means of the dalai-lama, and his subordinate the kutuktu, exercise priestly control over nearly all Mongolia as well as Tibet. The city lies in a fertile plain extending about twelve miles from north to south, and about one hundred and twenty -five in length. Mountains and hills en circle it ; Botala is the western one, and the river runs near its base, so that a wall has been built to preserve the buildings from the rise of the waters. The Chinese garrison is quartered about two miles north of this mount, and two large temples called H'lassa tso-kang and Ramotsie tso-kang, resplendent with gold and precious stones, stand very near it. The four monasteries, Sera, Brebung, Samye", and Galdan, constitute as many separate esta blishments.* During the sway of the Songares in fli, Iheir prince Arabdan made a descent upon H'lassa, and the lama was killed. Kanghi placed a new one upon the see, and reinstated him at Botala in 1720, appointing six of the leading officers of the old * Klaproth's Description du Tubet, page 246. TWO CAPITALS OF TIBET. 195 lama to assist him in the government. Three of these joined in an insurrection, and in the conflicts which succeeded, H'lassa suffered considerably. Since the expulsion of the Nipalese in 1792, no foreigners are allowed entrance from the south, the Chinese having established a line of posts along the whole of the southern frontier towards Nipal and Butan. The popu lation of H'lassa is conjectured to be 24,000 ; that of the pro vince is reckoned by Csoma at about 650,000. The capital of Tsang or Ulterior Tibet is Zhikatse-jung or Teshu-h'lumbu, twenty-six miles west of H'lassa, the monastic residence of the teshu-lama or banchin-erdeni, a town of three or four hundred houses, convents, and palaces, built on an ele vated plain. It contains, among other buildings, the mausoleum of the teshu-lama, who died in Peking in 1781, which is de scribed by Turner as a beautiful specimen of Tibetan sculpture. The plain between this town and H'lassa is a fertile tract, and judging from the number of towns in the valleys of the basin of the Yaru-tsangbu, its productive powers are comparatively great. Ulterior Tibet is divided into six other cantons, besides the territory under the jurisdiction of the chief town, most of their fortified capitals lying westward of Zhikatse", in the basin of the Yaru-tsangbu. The last of the sixth, Ari or Nari, is an extensive region, described by Csoma as stretching from Tsang to Ladak, but very thinly settled, its population not ex ceeding 50,000 families, on an area, judging from Chinese and other maps, of at least five times that number of square miles ; he speaks, however, of tracts of desert land within its limits. The degree of skill the Tibetans have attained in manufac tures, mechanical arts, and general civilization, is less than that of the Chinese, but superior to the Mongols. They appear to be a mild and humane people, and possess more of a religious sense than the Chinese. They belong to the Mongol race, with slight intermixture of their southern neighbors ; no two people or coun tries widely separated present a stronger contrast than the stout, tall, muscular, and florid Butias, upon their fertile fields and wooded hills, do with the squat, puny, sluggish, and swarthy Tibetans in their rugged barren mountains. They distinguish five sorts of people among themselves, the last of whom are the Butias ; the others are the inhabitants of Kham, or Anterior Tibet, those in Tsang, the nomads of Kor-katshe, and the people of Lit- 196 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. tie Tibet. All of them speak Tibetan with some variations. The Tibetans are clad with woollens and furs to such a degree that they appear to emulate the animals they derive them from in their weight and warmth ; and with this clothing is found no small quantity of dirt. The dress of the sexes varies slightly in its shape ; yellow and red are the predominant colors. Large bulgar boots of hide are worn by all persons ; the remainder of the dress consists of woollen robes and furs like those of the Chinese. The women wear many jewels, and adorn their hair with pearls. Girls braid their hair in three tresses, married women in two. The head is protected by high velvet caps ; the men wear broad-brimmed coverings of various materials. The two sects of religious are distinguished by yellow and red caps ; the latter are comparatively few, allow marriage to the lamas, but do not differ materially in their ritual or tenets. There is no country where so large a proportion of the people are devoted to religious service as in Tibet, nor one where the secular part of the inhabitants pay such implicit deference to the clergy. The food of the Tibetans is taken at all hours, there being no stated times for eating. Mutton, barley, and tea con stitute the staple articles of food. Tea is not drunk clear, but when the infusion is drawn off, barley meal is stirred up in the cup, making a thin gruel. A strange mixture of water, flour, butter, and salt, boiled together with the tea, and drawn off in cups as tea or gruel, is also used to some extent. On all visits tea is presented, and the cup replenished as often as it is drained. Spirits and beer, both made from barley, are common beverages. On every visit of ceremony, and whenever a letter is sent from one person to another, it is necessary to connect a silk scarf with it, the size and texture being proportioned to the rank and condi tion of the parties. The sentence Om mani pax (or pad) mi om, an invocation in universal use among the people, is woven upon each end. In reverential salutations, the cap is removed by the inferior, and the arms hang by the side. The bodies of the dead are placed in an open inclosure, in the same manner as practised by the Parsees, where birds and beasts of prey devour them, or they are dismembered in an exposed place. Lamas are burned, and their ashes collected into urns. As soon as the breath has departed, the body is seated in the same attitude as Budha is represented, with the legs bent before, CUSTOMS OF THE TIBETANS. 197 and the soles of the feet turned upwards. The right hand rests upon the thigh, the left turns up near the body, the thumb touch ing the shoulder. In this attitude of contemplation, the corpse is burned. In Tibet, as in Butan, the custom of polyandry prevails. The choice of a wife lies with the eldest son, who having made known his intentions to his parents sends a matchmaker to pro pose the matter to the parents of the girl. The sexes are not kept apart as in China, and the youth makes his own selection. The consent of the parents being obtained, the matchmaker places an ornament of a jewel set in gold, called sedzia, upon the head of the damsel, and gives her presents of jewels, dresses, cattle, &c, according to the means of the young man. The guests invited on the day of the marriage bring presents of such things as they choose, which augments the dowry. A tent is set up before the bride's .house, in which are placed three or four square cushions, and the ground around sprinkled with wheat ; the bride is seated on the highest cushion, her parents and friends standing near her according to their rank, and the assembled party there partake of a feast. The bride is then conducted to the house of her lover by the friends present, her person being sprinkled with wheat or barley as she goes along, and there placed by his side, and both of them served with tea and spirits. Soon after, the groom seats himself apart, and every one present gives them a scarf, those of superior rank binding them around their necks, equals and inferiors laying them by their sides. The next day, a procession is formed of the relatives of the newly married pair, which visits all the friends, and the marriage is completed. The girl thus becomes the wife of all the bro thers, and manages the domestic concerns of their household. Priests have nothing to do with marriages in this or any other part of the Chinese empire, their office being associated with funereal rites. Almost every family furnishes one or two mem- bers to the priesthood. A closer acquaintance with a society so singularly constituted would no doubt disclose the fact that these families were either unhappily joined, or that the marriage tie was not very strictly kept. Population is constantly kept down by the united effects of religious celibacy and polyandry. The climate of this elevated region probably has its effects in continu ing such a custom, and maintaining the purity of society. 198 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. The dwellings of the poor are built of unhewn stones, rudely piled upon each other without cement, two stories high, and resembling brick-kilns in shape and size ; the windows are small in order not to weaken the structure ; the roof is flat, defended by a brushwood parapet, and protected from the molestation of evil spirits by flags, strips of paper tied to strings, or branches of trees. Timber is little used, for it does not grow in the country ; the floors are of marble or tiles, and the furniture consists of but little else than mats and cushions. The temples and convents are more imposing and commodious structures ; some of those at H'lassa are among the best specimens of architecture in Central Asia. The mausoleum of the teshu-lama at Teshu-h'lumbu, built to wards the end of the last century, resembles a plain square watch- tower surmounted by a double Chinese canopy roof, the eaves of which are hung with bells, on which the breeze plays a ceaseless dirge. The body of the lama reposes in a coffin of gold, and his effigy, also of gold, is placed within the concavity of a large shell upon the top of the pyramidal structure which contains it. The sides of the pyramid are silver plates, and on the steps are deposited the jewels and other costly articles which once appertained to him. An altar in front receives the obla tions and incense daily presented before the tomb, and near byis a second statue of the deceased as large as life in the attitude of reading. Scrolls and pennons of silk hang from the ceiling, and the walls are adorned with paintings of priests engaged in prayer. The whole structure is substantially built, aud its rich ornaments are placed there not less for security than to do honor to the revered person deposited beneath. The other buildings in this 'town, consisting of upwards of three hundred monasteries, temples, &c, are noticeable rather for their solidity than elegance. The windows are closed with mohair curtains, and a skylight in the upper story serves for lighting the room, and for passing out upon the roof. The roof or parapet is ornamented with cylin ders of copper or other materials, which imparts a brilliant appearance to the edifices. The fortress of Zhikatse stands at the entrance into the valley, and in the hands of a valiant people, would easily afford full protection to its inhabitants. The manufactures of Tibet consist of woollens made from the covering of the shawl goat, and jewelry. Their lapidaries cut COMMERCE AND LANGUAGE OF TIBET. 199 every kind of ornament in superior style, and gold and silver ware forms a considerable article of trade to China. These and other crafts must necessarily languish, however, from the im mense proportion of men who are withdrawn from labor into monasteries, compelling the residue to devote most of their strength to tillage. The most important exports to China consist of gold dust, precious stones, bezoars, assafsetida, musk, wool lens, and skins ; for which the people receive silks, teas, china- ware, tobacco, musical instruments, and metals. The trade is carried on through Sining fu in Kansuh, and Patang in Sz'chuen. Tincal, rock-salt, and shawl wool, are additional articles sent to Ladak, Butan, and India, but the trade towards the south is far less productive than it would be if unrestricted. The common diseases in Tibet are dropsy, rheumatism, small pox, and syphilis ; the last two are much feared, and the patient upon whom the pustules are seen is instantly abandoned and left to starve, if the disease does not kill him. Syphilis is cured in some degree by mercurial preparations. The medicinal pre parations are put up by the people, but most of the drugs come from China. Music is studied by the priesthood for their cere monies, and with much better effect than among the Chinese priests. Their amusements consist in archery, dancing, and observance of many festivals connected with the worship of the dead or of the living. Dram-drinking is common, but the peo ple cannot be called a drunken race, nor does the habit of opium eating or smoking, so fatally prevalent in Assam on their south, prevail. * Education is confined to the priesthood, but the women, who conduct much of the traffic, also learn arithmetic and writing. The language is alphabetical, and reads from left to right ; there are two forms of the character, the uchen used for books, and the umin employed in writing, which do not differ more than the Roman and the running-hand in English. The form of the characters shows their Sanscrit original, but there are many consonants in the language not found in that tongue, and silent letters are not unfrequent in the written words. There are thirty consonants in the alphabet, distributed into eight classes, with four additional vowel signs ; each of them ends in a short a, as ka, nga, cha, which can be lengthened by a diacritical mark placed underneath. The syllables are separated from each 200 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. other by a point ; the accented consonant is that which follows the vowel, and the others, whether before or after it, are pro nounced as rapidly as possible, and not unfrequently omitted altogether in speaking. The variations in this respect constitute the chief features of the patois found in different parts where Tibetan is spoken. A dictionary and grammar of this language have been published in Calcutta by Csoma de Koros, a Hunga rian who formerly resided among the priests near Ladak. The literature is almost wholly theological, as far as it has been examined, and such works as are not of this character, have probably been introduced from China. Their divisions of time, numeration, chronology, and weights, have also been adopted from that country with a few alterations. The history of Tibet has been made known to Europe through the Mongol Sanang Setsen, but if free access could be had to their annals, it is probable that a methodical history could be ex tracted, reaching back at least three centuries before Christ. Tibet was ruled by its own princes till the rise of Genghis ; the first monarch, who united the various tribes under his sway b. c. 313, was Seger-Sandilutu-Kagan-Tul-Esen ; and from the fact that Budhism was introduced during his reign, it might be inferred that he came from the south. H'lassa was founded by Srongzan-Gambo about a. d. 630, after which time Tibetan his tory becomes more authentic, inasmuch as this king introduced the alphabet. The Tang dynasty carried their arms into Tibet from Khoten, but the people threw off their yoke during the de cline of that family. Mohammedanism also disturbed the supre macy of the Budhist faith, and severe persecutions followed about the beginning of the tenth century by an Islam prince Darma, but it was repelled at his death, and has never since made the least impression upon tbe people. Genghis reduced Tangout, one of the principalities, about 1200, and soon after brought the whole country under his sway, which Kublai still further settled as a dependency of his empire. The people recovered their indepen dence on the expulsion of the Mongols from China, and under the Ming dynasty formed several small kingdoms, among which were Ladak and Rodok in the west towards Cashmere, both of them still existing. From a short resume of letters written from Tibet in 1626, by Romish missionaries living there, it appears, that the kingdom of HISTORICAL NOTICES OT TIBET. 20] Sopo was the most powerful in the north, and Cogue, U-tsang, and Moriul, were three southern principalities. The king of Cogue allowed them to reside in his territories, and took pleasure in hearing them converse and dispute with the lamas. The dalai-lama at this time was the king's brother, and possessed sub ordinate influence in the state, but the priests were numerous and influential. The conquest of Mongolia and Tangout opened the way for Kanghi to enter Tibet, but the intercourse between the emperor and dalai-lama was chiefly connected with religion I and carrying tribute. The lamas held the supreme power until towards the end of his reign, when Chinese influence became paramount. The country had already been conquered by the Songar chieftain, so that on his defeat it could offer little resist ance. Kanghi appointed six of the highest princes or gialbo over the provinces ; but soon after his death, in 1727, three of them conspired against Yungching, and were not subdued with out considerable resistance. The emperor then appointed the loyal prince or gialbo as governor-general, and he remained in his vice-regal office till his death, about 1750. Kienlung, finding that his son was endeavoring to make himself fully independent, executed him as a rebel, suppressed the office, and appointed two Chinese generals to be associated with the dalai-lama and his coadjutor, in the administration of the country. The troops were increased and forts erected in all parts of the country to awe the people and facilitate trade. The present government of Tibet is superintended by two ta chin, or great ministers, residing at H'lassa, who act conjointly, while they serve as checks upon each other ; they do not hold their office for a long time. They have absolute control over all the troops in the country, and the military are generally confined to the garrisons, and do not cultivate the soil. The collection of revenue, transmission of tribute to Peking, and direction of the persons who carry it, and those who conduct the trade at Patang and Sining fu, are all under their control. The dalai-lama at H'lassa, in Anterior Tibet, and the teshu-lama or banchin-erdeni at Zhikatse, in Ulterior Tibet, are the high religious officers of the country, each of them independent in his own province, but the former holding the highest place in the hierarchy. The Chinese residents confer with each concerning the direction of his own province. All their appointments to office or nobility 10* 202 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. must be sanctioned by the residents before they are valid, but merely religious officers are not under this surveillance. In the villages, the authority is administered by secular deputylamas called deba, and by commandants called karpon, who are sent from the capital. Each deba is assisted by a native vazir of the place, who, with the chief lama, form the local government, amenable to the supreme magistracy. The western province of Ari is peopled by nomads, who wander over the regions north of Ravan-hrad, and are under the authority of karpons sent from H'lassa, without the assistance of lamas. The two high-priests themselves are likewise assisted by councillors. One of these, called Soopoon Choomboo, who held the office of sadeek or ad viser when Turner visited Teshu-h'lumbu, was a Manchu by birth, but had long lived in Tibet. The nomadic clans of Dam Mongols and other tribes occupy. ing the thirty-nine feudal townships or tu-sz' in Anterior Tibet, are governed by the residents without the intervention of the lamas. The disturbances in Ulterior Tibet in 1792, resulting from the irruption of the Nipalese and sack of Teshu-h'lumbu, were speedily quelled by the energy of Kienlung's government, and the invaders forced to sue for mercy. The southern fron tier was, in consequence of this inroad, strongly fortified by a chain of posts, and the communication with the states between Tibet and India strictly forbidden and watched. It gave the Chinese an opportunity to strengthen their rule in Ulterior Tibet, and extend their influence north to Khoten and into Ladak. The natural mildness of character of the Tibetans renders them much easier under the Chinese yoke, than the Mohammedans of the Southern Circuit ; they are represented as contented and indus trious by those who have seen them. Although their form of government is more liberal than other parts of the empire, too little is known of its practice to be able to judge whether the mass of people really enjoy any greater privileges or more free dom ; but it is little likely that the frivolities of Budhism would tend to teach the rulers equity or liberality, or the people a just knowledge of their rights. The large map of the empire, which is regarded by the Chi nese as the best delineation of the extent and divisions of their possessions, includes within its limits two other countries besides LADAK AND ITS DIVISIONS. 203 those now described, but over which their influence is altogether nominal. These are Corea and Ladak. The former was pro bably placed in the map from its proximity to the capital, and its peninsular form naturally connecting it with the neighboring dis tricts. But national vanity alone can be the motive for includ ing the remote principality of Ladak within the imperial fron tiers, for its ruler has almost no connexion at all with Peking, and has never received troops into his borders. The utter inac curacy of the map in this portion of it is another proof of the ignorance of the draftsman, for Leh is placed in lat. 30° on the map, instead of 34°, and the sources of the Indus run south of it in three parallel streams due west, without any obstruc tion. The rajah of Ladak, however, is not so independent as to be able to contemn the advice of the Chinese officers stationed on his eastern frontier at Rodok, Teshigang, Guge, and other places. Ladak and Little Tibet or Beltistan, comprise the north-western part of Tibet. The former may be said to consist of the upper most valley of the Indus, here called Sinka-bab, and the latter the same river near its confluence with the Shayuk. Ladak, formerly called Mar-yul, is bounded north by the Tsung ling, which divide it from Yarkand ; east by Rodok and Gardok, along the Sinka-bab, which separate it from Ari ; south and south-west by the Himalaya, separating it from Cashmere ; and north-west by Beltistan. Its area is about 30,000 square miles, and population between 150,000 and 200,000, who speak Tibe tan, and are Mohammedans as well as Budhists. It is divided into four districts, Leh, Nubra, Zanskar, and Pitti or Purak. The country is an inhospitable, bleak region, consisting of a succession of ridges, between which narrow valleys, presenting small inducements to the farmer, offer the only arable ground. The main river is the Indus, which receives several considerable streams within the limits of Ladak, and some others beyond the borders ; few of them are available for navigation or tillage. The climate is clear and cold in winter, seldom above 15° F. from December to February ; in summer the heat is 135° F., and even higher. There is little rain, but grain ripens rapidly during the summer, being ready for the sickle in eight or nine weeks after sowing. The frost and rain decompose the sides of the hills, which form the only soil at their bottoms f the inhabit ants terrace the base, and raise large crops upon the ground thus 204 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. gained, leading the mountain streams from one level to the other. The people have many resemblances to the Tibetans. They are mild, industrious, and peaceful, and carry on a large manu- facture of shawls and other articles from the wool of the goat. Leh, the capital of the country, is situated in lat. 44° IO' N. and long. 77° 45' E., about two miles from the Indus, in a well cul tivated plain. The city is surrounded by a wall defended by towers, and the houses, about seven hundred in all, are built of stone or unburnt brick two and three stories high, in such a con fused manner, and with such a want of arrangement in their position, as to resemble a burrow more than a city. The roofs and floors are composed of layers of earth upon willow or poplar trunks, covered with thatch, and during the rains, the soil pours down into the apartments ; the mud thus formed is carefully used for manure. Little furniture is seen in these dwellings. The most considerable building is the palace, which is two hundred and fifty feet long, in front, and several stories high. The inha bitants dress in woollens and skins, and are uncleanly in their persons and houses. The productions consist of three kinds of wheat, buckwheat, and two kinds of barley. Kitchen vegetables are not much known, onions, carrots, turnips, and cabbages, com prising the greatest part. Apples and apricots are the common fruits, but melons, grapes, and other kinds are brought from Cashmere. The cattle are the yak, the cow, and a hybrid be tween them, horses, sheep, and goats. Wild animals and birds of many sorts are numerous, and supply both peltry and food to some extent. The trade of Ladak is extensive, and a source of profit to the people, for Leh is the great thoroughfare of the caravan trade from Yarkand, H'lassa, and Russia, to Cashmere, Lahore, and India. The principal article of trade is goat's wool, supplied partly from Rodok and Tibet, and sent to the amount of eight hundred camel-loads annually. Much of the transportation over the mountains of Little Tibet is done upon sheep, each carrying twenty to twenty-five pounds weight. Tea, tincal, silks, and Chinese manufactures come from Tibet, but the largest trade is with Yarkand. The government of Ladak is in the hands of*a rajah, but most of the real power lies in the priest hood, who monopolize the profits upon the trade. The peaceful LEH, THE CAPITAL OF LADAK. 205 disposition of the Ladakese is in strong contrast to their turbulent neighbors on the west and south, in Lahore, Cashmere, and Badakshan ; and it is somewhat remarkable that amidst so many unscrupulous rulers they have been permitted to remain so long unmolested. Ranjit Singh partially extended his dominion over them, but after his death, they regained their.independence, but have since been again reduced to vassalage. The rajah annually sends presents to the rulers of Cashmere, Gartope, and H'lassa in Tibet, as a kind of acknowledgment of the trade passing from their possessions through his states. Polyandry exists in Ladak as well as Tibet, but not to so great an extent, so far as has been ascertained. The effects-of this singular custom upon the pro gress and happiness of society have never been examined by observers who have had opportunity to reside in families so con stituted, but so far as the reports of the inhabitants to travellers can assist in forming, an opinion, it does not appear to materially interfere with the harmony of the household. The excess of females is sold to the people living south in Lahore, Rajast'han, and other states near the Indus. There is little wealth in the country, but the great body of the people have a sufficiency of food and clothing. They are addicted to drunkenness, and spend much of their time in amusements.* * Moorcroft's Travels, Turner's Embassy, Klaproth's Tibet, Chinese Repository, Vols. I. and XIII. 206 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. CHAPTER V. Population and Statistics. Much of the interest appertaining to the country and people here treated of, in the minds of philanthropic and intelligent men,'has arisen from the impression they have received of its vast popula tion. A country twice the size of the Chinese empire would present few attractions to the Christian, the merchant, or the eth nologist, if it was no better inhabited than Sahara, or Oregon : a people might possess most admirable institutions, and a match less form of government, but these excellences would lose their interest, when we heard that it is the duchy of Modena, or on the Angola coast, where they are found. The population of few countries in the world has been accurately ascertained, and pro bably that of China is less satisfactory than most European or American states. It is far easier to take a census among a peo ple who understand its object, and will honestly assist in its exe cution, than in a despotic, half-civilized country, where the mass of people are afraid of contact or intercourse with their rulers ; in most of such states, as Abyssinia, Turkey, Persia, &c, there is either no census at all, or merely a general estimate, far dif ferent from an intelligible enumeration of the people. The subject of the population of China has engaged the atten tion of the monarchs of the present dynasty, and their censuses have been the best sources of information in making up an opi nion upon the matter, by those writers who have examined the question. Whatever may be our views of the actual population of China, it is plain that these censuses, with all their discrepan cies and inaccuracies, are the sources of information upon which the most dependance can be placed. The conflicting opinions and conclusions of writers neither give any additional weight to them, nor detract at all from their credibility. As the question stands at present, they can be doubted, but cannot be denied ; it is impossible to prove them, while there are many grounds for DIFFICULTIES OF THE SUBJECT. 207 believing them ; the enormous population which they exhibit can be declared to be improbable, but not shown to be impossible. No one who has been in China can hesitate to acknowledge, that there are some strong grounds for giving credit to the cen suses, but the total goes so far beyond his calculations, that he defers his entire belief till some new data have been furnished. There are, perhaps, more peculiar encouragements in China to the increase of population than in any other country. Among the most powerful are the desire for sons to continue the worship in the ancestral hall, and to assist in maintaining the parents when old- In Japan, India, and Persia, these causes have less influ ence ; in Tibet, they are almost powerless ; in Siam and Burmah, they are weak. Security of life and property, continuance of peace, and minuteness of tillage, have also aided to produce the same result. At this point every one must rest, as the result of an examina tion into the population of the Chinese empire ; though, from the survey of its principal divisions, made in the preceding chapters, its capability of maintaining a dense population needs no addi tional evidence. The mind, however, is bewildered in some degree by the contemplation of millions upon millions of human beings collected in this manner under one government ; and it almost wishes there might be grounds for disbelieving the enor mous total, from the dreadful results that might follow the tyran nical caprice or unrestrained fury of their rulers, or the still more shocking scenes of rapine and famine, which a bad harvest and insufficient food would necessarily cause. Before entering upon the examination of this question, it will be well to bring together in a tabular form the various estimates taken of the population during the present dynasty. No entire census of the empire has been published for thirty-five years, and, therefore, only an approximation can be made of the present amount; for, if the number given in 1812 be considered worthy of credence, it is highly probable that there has been an increase during the interval. In the city and vicinity of Canton and Macao, it is certain the population has become more dense during this period, to an extent quite evident to many foreigners who have resided there. The details given in this table have been taken from the best sources accessible to foreigners, and are as good as the people at large themselves possess. ©oo TABLE OF THE DIFFERENT CENSUSES OF THE EIGHTEEN PROVINCES. PROVINCES. Area in English square miles. ° 8 +. > .3 Census in 1710, or before. Census of 1711. Census of 1753. Last census of 1812. Estimate in 1792, given Macartney. Census in 1762 or 1765, by AUer- stein. Census of 1743, from DeGxxignes. Revenue in taels of $1,33 each. " Chihli, Shantung, . 58,949 475 3,260,075 3,274,870 9,374,217 -27,990,871 38,000,000 15,222,940 16,702,765 3,942,000 - 65,104 444 2,278,595 12,769,872 -28,958,764 24,000,000 25,180,734 12,159,680 6,344,000 Shansi, 55,268 252 1,792,329 1,727,144 5,162,351 14,004,210 27,000,000 9,768.189 8,969,475 6,313,000 " Honan, 65,104 420 2,005,088 3,094,150 7,114,346 -23,037,171 25,000,000 16,332,507 12,637,280 5,651,008 t Kiangsn,Nganhwui, . 44,50048,461 850705 3,917,707 1,350,131 2,656,465 1,357,829 12,618,987 12,435,361 -37,843,501•> 34,168,059 ! 32,000,000 23,161,40922,761,030 I 26,766,365 11,733,000 Kiangsi, 72,176 320 5,528,499 2,172,587 5,055,251 23,040,999 19,000,000 11,006,640 6,681,350 3,744,000 w Chehkiang, 39,150 671 2,710,649 2,710,312 8,662,808 -20,250,784 21,000,000 15,429,690 15,623,990 5,856,000 Fuhkien,' 53,480 276 1,468,145 706,311 4,710,399 14,777,410 15,000,000 8,063,671 - 7,643,035 2,344,000 Hupeh,* Hunan, 70,450 389 469,927 433,943 4,568,860 27,370,098 14,000,000 8,080,603 I 2,091,000 74,320 251 375,782 335,034 4,336,332 18,652,507 13,000,000 8,829,320 t 4,264,850 1,905,000 Shensi, 67,400 153 240,808 2,150,690 3,851,043 10,207,250 18,000,000 7,287,443 ) 3,042,000 Kansuh, 86,608 175 311,972 368,525 2,133,222 15,193,125 12,000,000 7,812,014 } 14,804,035 563,000 Sz'chuen, 106,800 128 144,154 3,802,689 1,368,496 21,435,678 27,000,000 2,782,976 15,181,710 968,000 Kwangtung, . 79,450 241 1,148,918 1,142,747 3,969,248 19,174,030 21,000,000 0,797,597 6,006,600 2,193,000 Kwangsi, 78,250 93 205,995 210,674 1,975,619 7,313,895 10,000,000 3,947,414 1,143,450 794,000 Kweichau, . . 64,554 82 51,080 37,731 1,718,848 5,288,219 9,000,000 3,402,722 255,445 185,000 Yunnan, Shingking, . 107,969 51 2,255,600 4,194 145,414 1,003,058 221,742 5,501,320 2,167,280 8,000,000 2,078,802 668,852 ¦ 1,189,825 235,620 432,000 1,297,999 268 27,241,129 28,605,716 103,050,060 362,447,183 333,000,000 198,214,553 150,265,475 58,097,000 31w ao lr1 W«Ofcfo s TABLE OF VARIOUS CENSUSES. 209 Besides these detailed accounts, there have been several aggre gates of the whole country given by Chinese authors, and some by foreigners, professedly drawn from original sources, but who have not stated their authorities. The most trustworthy, together with those given in the preceding table, are here placed in chro nological order. Authorities. / Mirror of History ; Chinese Repo- t sitory, Vol. X., page 156. ) General Statistics of the Empire ; ? Medhurst's China, page 53. \ Tih Tung Chi, a Statistical work ; \ Morrison's View of China. f General Statistics ; Chinese Repo- ) sitory, Vol. I., page 359. Memoires sur les Chinois, torn. VI., quoted by Grosier ; and by De Guignes, Voyages a Peking, torn. III., page 72. " Les Mission aires," De Guignes, torn. III., page 67. General Statistics, Chinese Repo sitory, Vol. I., p. 359. Yih Tung Chi, a Statistical work ; Morrison's View of China. Memoires sur les Chinois, tom.VI. De Guignes, torn. HI., page 72. j Aller-itain ; Grosier ; De Guignes, tome III., page 67. Z. of Berlin, in Chinese Reposi tory, Vol. I., page 361. General Statistics ; Dr. Morrison, Anglo-Chinese Coll. report, 1829. Statement made to Lord Macart ney. General Statistics ; Chinese Repo sitory, Vol. I., page 359. Seven of these censuses, viz. the 7th, 8th, 12th, 13th, 17th, 20th, and 21st, are given in detail in the preceding table. The first three belong to the Ming dynasty, and are taken from the Kang Kien 1 Chi, or Mirror of History, where these amounts are simply inserted, without giving any details of the population of each province. The same work also contains one census taken previous to these, about a. d. 1000, when the population is set down at 9,955,729. During the Ming dynasty, a part of the country now called the Eighteen Provinces, was not under the control of Hungwu and his descendants. The mode of taking the census in those days is not stated very definitely, but if the three are equally trustworthy, it is evident that there was no in crease for more than 150 years. The wars with the Japanese, and with tribes on the north and west, together with the civil Reign of . Monarch. xx. Ix. Population. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Hungwu,Hungchi,Wanleih, Shunchi, Kanghi, 26th year, 4th year, 6th year, 18th year, 6th year, 49th year, 13931492 15791662 1668 1710 7 60,545,811 53,281,158 60,692,856 21,068,600 25.386,20923,312,200 7. IX 49th year, 1710? 27,241,129 8. " 50th year, 1711 28,605,716 9. 10.11. Kienlung. 1st year, 8th year, 8th year, 17361743 1743 125,046,245 157,343.975149,332,730 12. " 8th year, 1743 150,265,475 13. " 18th year, 1753 103,050,060 14. ix 25th year, 1760? 143,125,225 15.16. " 25th year, 26th year, 1760?1761 203,916,477205,293,053 17. " 27th year, 1762 198,214,553 18. ¦ 55th year, 1790 155,249,897 19. " 57th year, 1792 307,467,200 20. " 57th year, 1792 333,000,000 21. Kiaking, 17th year, 1812 362,467,183 210 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. wars and struggles between the Chinese, and the Kin in Manchu ria, must have somewhat decreased the population. The first census of 1662 (No. 4) is incidentally mentioned by Kienlung in 1791, as having been taken at that time, from his malting some observations upon the increase of the population, and comparing the early censuses with the one he had recently ordered. This sum of 21,068,600, does not, however, include all the inhabitants of China at that time ; for the Manchus com menced their sway in 1644, and did not exercise full authority over all the provinces much before 1700 ; Canton was taken in 1650, Formosa in 1683. The census of 1668 (No. 5) shows a little increase over that of 1662, but is likewise confined to the conquered portions ; and in those provinces which had been subdued, there were extensive tracts which had been almost depopulated at the conquest. Any one who will read the recitals of Semedo, Martini, Trigault, and others, concerning the massacres and destruction of life both by the Manchus and by Chinese bandits, between 1630 and 1650, will feel no loss in accounting for the diminution of numbers, down to 1710. But the chief explanation of the decrease from sixty to twenty-seven millions, is to be found in the object of taking the census, viz. to levy a poll tax, and get at the number of men fit for the army — two reasons for most men to avoid the registration. The census of 1711 (No. 8) is the first one on record which bears the appearance of credibility, when its several parts are compared with each other. The dates of the preceding (Nos. 6 and 7) are rather uncertain ; the last was extracted by Dr. Morrison from a book published in 1790, and he thought it was probably taken as early as 1650, though that is improbable. The other is given by Dr. Medhurst without any explanation, and their great disparity leads us to think both are dated wrongly. The census of 1711 is much more consistent in itself, though there are some reasons for supposing that neither did it include all the population then in China. The census was still taken for enrolment in the army, and to levy a capitation tax upon all males between the ages of sixteen and sixty. But this tax and registration were evaded and resisted by the indignant Chinese, who had never been chronicled in this way by their own princes, and the emperor Kanghi, therefore, abolished the capitation tax. COMPARISON OF FIRST THREE CENSUSES. 211 It was not till about this time that the Manchus had subdued and pacified the southern provinces, and it is not improbable that this census, and the survey taken by the Jesuits, were among their acts of sovereignty. Finding the people unwilling to be regis tered, the poll tax was merged in the land tax, and no census ordered during the reign of Yungching, till Kienlung revived it in order to have some guide in apportioning relief during seasons of distress and scarcity, establishing granaries, and aiding the police in their duties. Many, therefore, who would do all in their power to prevent their names being taken, when they were liable to be taxed or called on to do military service, could have no objection to come forward, when the design of the census was to benefit themselves. It matters very little, however, for what object the census was taken if there is reason to believe it to be accurate. It might indeed act as a stimulus to multiply names and figures whom there were no people to represent, as the way of paying the marshals a percentage on the numbers they reported, did in some parts of New York in 1840. The three next numbers (9, 10, and 11) are taken from De Guignes, who quotes Amiot, but gives no Chinese authorities. The last is given in full by De Guignes, and both this and that of Allerstain, dated twenty years after, are introduced into the table. There are some discrepancies between these two and the census of 1753, taken from the General Statistics, which cannot easily he reconciled. The internal evidence is in favor of the latter, over the census of 1743 ; it is taken from a new edition of the Ta Tsing Hwui Tien, or General Statistics of the Empire, and the increase during the forty-two years which had elapsed since the last census is regular in all the provinces, with the exception of Shantung and Kiangnan. The extraordinary fer tility of these provinces would easily induce immigration, while in the war of conquest, their populousness and wealth attracted the armies of the Manchus, and the destruction of life was dis- proportionably great. The smaller numbers given to the western and southern provinces correspond moreover to the opposition experienced in those regions, still partially subdued. On the whole, the census taken in 1753 corresponds very well with that of 1711, and both of them bear an aspect of verity, which does not belong to the table quoted by De Guignes, dated in 1743. From 1711 to 1753, the population doubled itself in about 212 THE MIDDLE KtNGDOM.' twenty-two years, premising that the whole country was faith. fully registered at the fust census. For instance, the province of Kweichau, in 1711, presents a mere fraction on the average, of a little more than a single person to two square miles ; while in 1753 it had increased in the unexampled ratio of three to a square mile, which is doubling its population every seven years; Kwangtung, Kwangsi, and Kansuh (all of them containing to this day, partially subdued tribes), had also multiplied their numbers in nearly the same proportion, owing in great measure, proba bly, to the more extended census than to the mere increase of population. The amounts for 1736, three of 1743, and those of 1760, 1761, and 1762 (Nos. 9, 10, 11, 12, 15, 16, and 17), are all extracted from De Guignes, who took them from the Memoires sur les Chinois. The last, that of 1762, is given in detail in the table. The discrepancy of sixty millions between that given by Amiot for 1.760, and that by Dr. Morrison for the same year, is owing, there can be little doubt, to foreigners, and not to an error of the Chinese. The work from which Dr. Morrison extracted his estimate for that year was published in 1790, but the census was taken between 1760 and 1765. The same work contains the census of 1711 (No. 8), quoted by him, and there is good reason for believing that Amiot's or Grosier's estimate of 157,343,975 for 1743, is the very same census, he having multiplied the number 28,605,716 by five, supposing them to have been families and not individuals. The three ascribed to the year 1743, are probably all derived from the same native authorities by different individuals. The three dated in 1760, 1761, and 1762, are harmonious with each other; but if they are taken, those of 1753 and 1760, extracted from the Yih Tung Chi by Dr. Morrison, must be rejected, which are far more reasonable, and correspond better with the preceding one of 1711. It may be remarked, that by reckoning five persons to a family in calculating the census of 1753. as Amiot does for 1743, the population would be 1S9,'223,S20 instead of 103,050,060, as given in the table. This explains the apparent decrease of fifty millions. All the discrepancies between these various tables and censuses must not be charged upon the Chinese, for where we find that an author like Grosier has made the glaring mistake of calling jin-ting families instead of persons, and then multiplying COMPARISON OF LATER CENSUSES. 213 this amount by five to ascertain the real population, it throws a shade of doubt over other estimates. The Chinese take their census by families, and it has been usual to allow five persons to a family, which may or may not be too much. The amount for 1736 corresponds sufficiently well with that for 1743 ; and reckoning the same number of persons in a fa mily in 1753, that tallies well enough with those for 1760, 1761, arid 1762, the whole showing a gradual increase for twenty-five years. But we think all of them, except that of 1753, are rated too high. That for 1762 (No. 17), given by Allerstain and others, has been considered usually as one of the most authentic state ments on this subject. The amount given by Z. of Berlin (No. 18), of 15.5J millions for 1790, is quoted in the Chinese Repository, but the writer states no authorities, was probably never in China, and as it ap pears at present, is undeserving the least notice. That given by Dr. Morrison for 1792 (No. 19), as having been taken the year before Lord Macartney's embassy, is extracted from Chinese works, but he did not publish it in detail. It is probably much nearer the truth than the amount of 333 millions, given by the commissioner Chau to the English ambassador. This estimate has had much more respect paid to it as an authentic document than it deserved. The Chinese commissioner would naturally wish to exalt his country in the eyes of its far-travelled visitors, and not having the official returns to refer to, would not be likely to state them less than they were. He gave the population of the provinces in round numbers, and perhaps altogether from memory, with the impression upon his mind that his hearers would never be able to refer to the original details. It can only be taken as the off-hand remembrance of an intelligent native, but by no means worthy of the same credence as an extract from a statistical work. The last one quoted (No. 21) is the most definite and satisfac tory of all the censuses in Chinese works, and was considered by both the Morrisons and by Dr. Bridgman, in the Chinese Repo sitory, as " the most accurate that has yet been given of the papulation." In questions of this nature, one well authenticated table is worth a hundred of doubtful origin ; and it has been shown how apocryphal are many of the statements given in books, but less 214 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. so with the census of 1812, the last one published by the Chi- nese government ; and the source of error which is chiefly to be guarded against in that, is the average given to a family. This is done by the Chinese themselves on no uniform plan, and it may be the case that the estimate of individuals from the number of families is done in separate towns, from an intimate acquaint- ance with the particular district, which would be less liable to error than a general average. The number of families given in the census of 1753, is 37,785,552, which is more than one-third of the population. The number of persons in a household in England at the census of 1840 was, on an average, 4f individuals. The four censuses which deserve the most credit, so far as the sources are considered, are those of 1711, 1753, 1792, and 1812 (i. e. Nos. 8, 13, 19, and 21); these, when compared, show the following rate of increase : From 1711 to 1753, the population increased 74,222,602, which was an annual advance of 1,764,824 inhabitants, or a little more than six per cent, per annum for forty-two years. This high rate, it must be remembered, does not take into account the more thorough subjugation of the south and west at the later date, when the Manchus could safely enrol large districts, where in 1711 they would not have been permitted to enter for such a purpose. From 1753 to 1792 the increase was 104,636,882, or an an nual advance of 2,682,997 inhabitants, or about 2£ per cent. per annum for thirty-nine years. During this period, the coun try enjoyed almost uninterrupted peace under the vigorous sway of Kienlung, and the unsettled regions of the south and west rapidly filled up. From 1792 to 1812, the increase was 54,126,679, or an annual advance of 2,706,333 — not quite one per cent, per annum — for twenty years. At the same rate, the present population is over four hundred and fifty millions ; but no one supposes there has been that increase, nor are there any data from which to make even the least guess of the present population of the whole em pire. The Chinese have overflowed the bounds of their posses sions on all sides under the patronizing policy of their monarchs, especially in Manchuria, Mongolia, III, and towards Tibet, while the emigration towards the Indian Archipelago is also large. COMPARATIVE liATE OF INCREASE. 215 It is very easy for foreigners to say they do not believe these censuses, and that the population does not at all equal their im mense numbers. " Cool and impartial men rate the population of China, properly so called, at one hundred and fifty millions," says Malte-Brun in 1800 ; but what advance does he make in statistical knowledge by thus contemptuously rejecting, in his study in France, the researches and investigations of the Chi nese ? So with tho compilers of the Encyclopedia Americana, who say " that China Proper has only 146,280,000" (only four teen more on a square mile than Massachusetts), " but the tri butary states and those under its protection swell the total to two hundred and forty millions ;" but who give no authorities for their assertions. It is far better to say that the whole subject rests on no credible data, and that we know nothing about the matter, than perpetuate such erroneous ideas and statements. If the Chinese censuses are worth but little, compared with those taken in European states, they are better than the guesses of foreigners who have never been in the country, or who have tra velled only partially in it. The Chinese pcoplo are doubtless one of the most conceited nations on the earth, but with all their vanity, they have never bethought themselves of rating their population twenty-five or thirty per cent, higher than they suppose it to be, for the purpose of exalting themselves in the eyes of foreigners or in their own. Except in the ease of the commissioner who informed Lord Ma cartney, none of the estimates were made for. or intended to be known by foreigners. The distances in miles between places given in Chinese itineraries correspond very well with the real distances ; the number of districts, towns, and villages in the de partments and provinces, as stated in their local and general topographical works, agree with the actual examination, so far as it can he made : why should their censuses be charged with false hood and gross error, when, however much we may doubt them, we cannot disprove them, and the weight of evidence derived from actual observation rather confirms them than otherwise ; and while their account, of towns, villages, distances, &c, are unhesitatingly adopted until better can be obtained ? Some of the glaring discrepancies in the various tables are ascribable to foreigners, and some of the Chinese censuses are incomplete, or 216 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. the year cannot be precisely fixed, both of which vitiate the deductions made from them as to the rate of increase. Some reasons for believing that the highest population ascribed to the Chinese empire is not greater than the country can sup. port, will. first be stated; and the objections against receiving their censuses then considered. This interesting subject can then only be left with the reader to form his own opinion. The area of the eighteen provinces is 1,348,870 sq. m., and the average population, therefore, for the whole in 1812, was 268 persons on every square mile ; that of the nine eastern provinces in and near the Great Plain, comprising 502,192 sq. m., or two- fifths of the whole, is 458 persons, and the nine southern and western provinces, constituting the other three-fifths, is 154 to a square mile. The surface and fertility of the country in these two portions differ so greatly, as to lead one to look for results like these. Taking McCulloch for a guide, it appears that the whole area of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland is 119,926 sq. miles, and the total population in 1831, was 24,410,429, or 212 on a square mile over the whole ; the ave rage in England and Wales is 241, in Scotland 78, and in Ireland 249 persons on each square mile. The areas of these three divisions of the United Kingdom given in the Penny Cyclo paedia are 115,227 sq. m., but the former is near enough for comparison. The areas of some other European states and their population, are added to assist in this comparison. States. Area. Population. Average Popula tion to a sq. m. France 203,736 sq. m. 45,400,487 in 1S46 223 Prussia . . 107,(137 " 14,157,573 in 1S37 132 Spain 152,758 " 12.103,774 in 1S37 67 Holland . . 13,593 " 2,015,398 in 1S3S 214 Lombardy . ]S,063 • " 4,707,r,30 in 1839 260 Belgium . . 13,214 4,242,600 in 1836 321 Lucca . . 420 " 165,198 in 1839 400 All these are regarded as well settled countries, with the exception of Spain, but the two last in the list are the only ones which exceed that of China taken as a whole, while none of them comes up to the average of the eastern provinces. All of them, China included, fall far short, however, of the" average COMPARISON WITH OTHER COUNTRIES. 217 population on a square mile of the kingdoms of Judah and Israel in the reigns of Abijah and Jeroboam, if the 1,200,000 men brought into the field by them can be taken as a ratio of the whole number of inhabitants. In estimating the capabilities of these European countries to support a dense population, great allowances must be made for roads and pasture-lands for horses, and the parks or grounds of noblemen, which afford very little or no food. In England and Wales, there are nearly twenty-nine millions of acres under cultivation, seventeen millions of which are pasture-lands, and only ten millions devoted to grain and vege tables ; the other two millions consist of fallow-ground, hop-beds, &c. There are, then, on the average about two acres of land for the support of each individual, or rather less than this, if the land required for the food of (horses be subtracted. It has been calculated that eight men can be fed on the same amount of land one horse requires ; and that four acres of pasture-land will furnish no more food for man than one of ploughed land. The introduction of railroads has superseded the use of horses for transportation to such an extent that it is estimated there are only 200,000 horses now in England, instead of a million in 1830. If, therefore, one half the land appropriated to pasture should be devoted to grain, and no more horses and dogs raised than a million of acres could support, England and Wales could easily maintain a population of more than four hundred to a square mile, supposing them to be willing to live on what the land can furnish. The Irish consume a far greater proportion of vegetables than the English, and it is estimated that of their eight millions of people, five principally depend upon the potatoe, and two and a half on oats, leaving only half a million who regularly use meat. Many of these live a beggarly life upon half an acre, and even less, and seldom taste meat or animal food ; but the average of the whole country, including tillage only, is a little over two persons to an acre. The quantity of land under cultivation in Belgium is about fifteen-seventeenths of the whole, which gives an average of about two acres to each person, or the same as in England. In these two countries, the people consume fa? more meat than in Ireland, and the amount of land occupied for pasturage is in nearly equal proportions in Belgium and Eng- 11 218 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. land. In France, tlie average of cultivated land is 1J acres ; in Holland, 1| acres to each person. If the same proportion between the arable and uncultivated land exists in China us in England, namely one fourth, there are about 650 millions of acres under cultivation in China ; and we are not left to conjecture in this case, for by a report made to Kienlung in 1745, it appears that the area of the land under cultivation was 595, 598, '221 acres ; a subsequent calculation places it at 640,579,381 acres, which is almost the same propor tion as in England. Estimating it at six hundred and fifty millions, for it has since increased rather than diminished, it gives one acre and four-fifths to every person, which is by no means a small supply for the Chinese, considering that there are no pastures or meadows for horses, sheep, or oxen in the country. In comparing the population of different countries, the mannar of living and the articles of food in use among their inhabitants, form such important elements of tho calculation, in ascertaining whether the country be overstocked or not, that a mere tabular view of the number of persons on a square mile is no criterion of the amount of inhabitants the land would maintain if they consumed the same food, and lived in the same manner in all of them. Living as the Chinese, Hindus, Javanese, and other Asiatics do, chiefly upon vegetables, the country can hardly be said to maintain more than one half or one third, or even one fourth as many people on a square mile as it might do, if their energies were developed as those of the English and Bel gians are, and their food remain the same. The population of these eastern regions has been repressed by the combined influences of ignorance, insecurity of life and property, religious prejudices, vice, and wars, so that the land has never maintained nearly as many inhabitants as it might have done. The greatest part of the cultivated soil in China is employed in raising food for man. Woollen garments and leather are little used, and cotton and mulberry occupy but a small proportion of the soil. There is not, so far as is known, a single acre of land in the empire sown with grass-seed, though the sedge in tho maiffihes and grass on the hills are collected for fodder or fuel, and therefore almost no human labor is employed in raising food for animals, whioh will not ajsp serve to sustain man. Horses SOURCES OF FOOD IN CHINA. 219 are seldom used for pomp or war, for travelling or carrying bur dens, but mules, asses, and goats are employed for transporta tion and other purposes in the north-west. Horses are fed on cooked rice, or chopped straw and beans, and in Kirin on oats. In the southern and eastern provinces, all these animals are rare, the transport of goods and passengers being done by boats or by men. The natives make almost no use of butter, cheese, or milk, and the few cattle they employ in agriculture easily find their living on the waste ground around the fields and villages. In the south, the buffalo is used more than the ox for ploughing the rice fields, and the habits of this animal make it cheaper to keep him in good liking, while he can also do more work. The winter stock is grass cut upon the hills, straw, bean stalks, and vegetables. No wool being wanted for making cloth, flocks of sheep and goats are seldom seen — it may almost be said are unknown in the east and south. The common viands arc pork, ducks, geese, poultry, and fish, all of which are raised cheaply. In the houses and boats of the poor, it is not uncommon to see a pig, or two or three ducks, kept in a pen or cage, and living upon the refuse of the family. No animal is reared cheaper than the Chinese hog, and the hatching and raising of ducks affords employment to thousands of people, each of whom can easily attend to hundreds.- Geese and poul try are abundant, but fish forms a far larger part of the common food of all classes than birds, being not only caught in seas, lakes, and running waters, but reared in pools and tanks, to an extent hardly conceivable by those who have not seen it. All these sources require but little more than the mere labor and implements for catching and keeping, to have- their full benefit ; in fishing, no pasture-grounds, no manuring, no barns, are needed, nor taxes paid by the cultivator and consumer. While animal food is thus provided for the people, its prepara tion takes away the least possible amount of cultivated soil. The space occupied for roads and pleasure-grounds is insignificant, but there is perhaps an amount appropriated for burial-places quite equal to the area used for those purposes in European coun tries ; it is, however, less valuable land, and much of it would be useless for culture, even if thus unoccupied. Graves are usually dug on the sides and tops of hills, in ravines and copses, and wherever thev will be retired and dry. Moreover, it is very 220 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. common to preserve the coffin in temples and cemeteries until it is decayed, partly in order to save the expense of a grave, and partly to worship the remains, or preserve them until they can be gathered to their fathers, in their distant native places. On the north of Canton are scores of buildings filled with coffins, before which incense is daily burned, and similar depositories are found near all cities. Near Shanghai, Hangchau fu, Ningpo, and in Chusan, coffins are seen piled in the corners of the fields, or under precipices, where they remain till dust returns to dust, and the bones are thrown into common receptacles. When the family burying- ground is full, it is a common custom for the owners to take up the ashes, and deposit them in urns, all in one pit, and occupy the vacant graves with other tenants. These customs limit the consumption of land for graves much more than one would sup pose when he sees, as at Macao, almost as much space occupied by the dead for a grave as by the living for a hut. The necro polis of Canton occupies the hills north of the city, of which not one fiftieth part could ever have been used for agriculture, but where cattle are allowed to graze, as much as if there were no tombs. The honor put upon agricultural pursuits has its effect in in creasing the cultivation of the land, while the principle on which land is rented and taxed, viz. that of paying a proportion of the crop, always remunerates the cultivator according to his indus try. Much of the land in the south and east of China Proper produces two crops annually. In Kwangtung, Kwangsi, and Fuhkien, two crops of rice are taken year after year from the low lands ; and in the winter season, in the neighborhood of towns, a crop of sweet potatoes, cabbages, turnips, or some other vegetable is grown, making a third crop. De Guignes estimates the returns of a rice crop at ten for one, which, with the vegeta bles, will give full 25 fold from an acre in a year ; few parts, however, give this increase. Little or no' land lies fallow, for constant manuring and minute subdivision of the soil prevents the necessity of repose. The diligence of the Chinese husband men in collecting and applying manure is well known, nor is their industry less in turning up the soil ; which, if it result in the production of two crops instead of one, really doubles the area of land under cultivation, when its superficies are com- ENCOURAGEMENTS TO POPULATION. 221 pared with those of other countries. If the amount of land which produces two crops be estimated at one fourth of the whole (and it is perhaps as near one third), it makes the area of arable land in the provinces upwards of 812 millions of acres, or 2j| acres to an individual. The land is not, however, cut up into such small farms as to prevent its being managed as well as the people know how to stock and cultivate it ; for manual labor is the chief de pendence of the landlord or farmer, and fewer cattle, carts, ploughs, and other instruments are used than in any other country. In the cultivation of rice, there is no need of animals after the wet land has been ploughed and harrowed, the labor of transplanting, weeding, and reaping being done by men. In no other country is so much food derived from the water. Not only are the coasts, estuaries, rivers, and lakes, covered with fishing-boats of various sizes, which are provided with nets, dredges, and tackle of different forms and uses, for the capture of whatever lives in the waters, but the spawn of fish is collected from the shallow waters of the rivers and carried wherever it can be reared. Rice fields are often converted into pools in the winter season, and stocked with carp, mullet, and other fish ; and the tanks dug in the fields for retaining the rain needed in irri gation usually contain fish. By all these means, an immense supply of food is obtained at a cheap rate, which is eaten fresh or preserved with or without salt, and sent over the whole em pire, at a rate which places it within the reach of all above beg gary. Other articles of food, besides those here mentioned, both animal and vegetable, such as dogs, cats, game, worms, birds- nests, tripang, leaves, 6&c, do indeed compose part of the meals among the Chinese, but it is comparatively an inconsiderable part, and need not enter into the calculation. Enough has been stated to show that the land is abundantly able to support the population ascribed to it, even with all the drawbacks known to exist ; and that, taking the highest estimate to be true, and con sidering the mode of living, the average population on a square mile or a square acre in China is less than in most European countries. The political and social causes which tend to multiply the in habitants of China are more numerous and powerful than in most countries. The failure of male posterity to continue the succes sion of the family, and worship at the tombs of the deceased pa- 222 THE HUDDLE KINGDOM. rents, is considered by all classes of people as one of the most afflictive misfortunes of life ; and the laws allow unlimited faci lities of adoption, and secure the rights of such as are taken into the family in this way. The custom of betrothing children when young, and the obligation society imposes upon the youth when arrived at maturity, to fulfil the contracts entered into by their parents, acts favorably to the establishment of families and the nurture of children, and prevents polygamy. Parents desire children also for a support in their old age, as there is no legal provision for aged poverty, and public opinion brands with infa my the man who allows his aged or infirm parents to suffer when he can help them. The law requires the owners of domestic slaves to provide husbands for their females, and prohibits that execrable feature of American slaver}', the involuntary or forci ble separation of husband and wife, or parents and children, when the latter are of tender age. All these causes and influ ences tend to increase population, and equalize the consumption and use of property more, perhaps, than in any other country. The custom of families remaining on the patrimonial estates, tends to the same result. The local importance of a large family in the country is weakened by its male members removing to town, or emigrating ; consequently, the patriarch of three or four generations endeavors to collect his sons and grandsons around him on his estate, their houses joining his, and they and their families all eating at a common table, or from a common stock. Such cases as those mentioned in the Sacred Commands are of course rare, where nine generations of the family of Chang Kung-i inhabited one house, or of Chin, at whose table seven hundred mouths were daily fed,* but it is the tendency of society. Fami lies are supported on a more economical plan, the claims of kin dred are better enforced, the land is cultivated with more care, and the local importance of the family perpetuated. This is, however, a very different system from that advocated by Fourier in France, or Greeley in America, for these little communities are placed under one natural head, whose authority is acknow ledged and upheld, and his punishments feared. Still, it has the result of supporting a large number of persons in comfort, and respectability, at a small expense, so that no prudential scruples * Sacred Edict, pages 51, 60. OBSTACLES TO EMIGRATION. 223 need deter any member of the household from marrying. Work men of the same profession form themselves into associations for mutual assistance in case of sickness, each person contributing a certain sum monthly, on the promise of assistance when sick or . disabled ; and this laudable custom prevents and alleviates a vast amount of poverty. The obstacles put in the way of emigrating beyond sea, both in law and prejudice, operate to deter respectable persons from leaving their native land. . Necessity, indeed, makes the law a dead letter, and compels thousands annually to leave their homes to avoid starvation ; and no better evidence of the dense popu lation can be offered to those well acquainted with Chinese feelings and character, than the extent of emigration. " What stronger proof," observes Medhurst, " of the dense population of China could be afforded than the fact, that emigration is going on in spite of restrictions and disabilities, from a country where learning and civilization reign, and where all the dearest interests and prejudices of the emigrants are found, to lands like Burmah, Siam, Cambodia, Tibet, Manchuria, and the Indian Archipelago, where comparative ignorance and barbarity prevail, and where the extremes of a tropical or frozen region are to be exchanged for a mild and salubrious climate 1 Add to these discommodities, the fact, that not a single female is permitted or ventures to leave the country, and consequently, all the tender attachments that bind heart to heart must be burst asunder, and, in most cases, for ever." None but the most indigent or desperate, therefore, leave the country to seek their livelihood in less populous regions, and with such restrictions, few besides these would be inclined to do so. , Moreover, if they return with wealth enough to live upon, which all of them wish to do, they are liable to the vexatious extortions of needy relatives, sharpers, and police, who have a handle for their fleecing whip in the well-known law (Code, sec. 225) against leaving the country. A case occurred in 1832, at Canton, where the son of a Chinese living in Calcutta, who had been sent home by his parent with his' mother, to perform the usual ceremonies to his deceased grtindparents, was seized by his uncle as he was about to be married, on the pretext that his father had unequally divided the paternal inheritance ; he was obliged to pay a thousand dollars to free himself. Soon after his 224 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. marriage, a few sharpers seized him and carried him off in a sedan, as he was walking near his house, but his cries attracted the police, who carried them all to the magistrates, where he was liberated ; he was, however, obliged to fee his deliverers.* An- 'other case occurred in Macao, in 1838, which resulted in the death of the man. He had been living several years in Singa pore as a merchant, and still kept up an interest in the trade with that place when he settled in Macao. Accounts of his great wealth became generally rumored abroad, and he was very seri ously annoyed by his relatives. One night, a number of thieves, dressed like police-runners, came to his house to search for opium, and the boisterous manner of their entrance terrified him to such a degree, that he jumped from the terrace upon the hard gravelled court-yard to escape, and broke his leg, of which he shortly after died. A third case is mentioned, where the returned emigrants, consisting of a man and his wife, who was a Malay, and two children, were rescued from extortion, when before the magis trate, by the kindness of his wife and mother, who wished to see the foreign woman. f These cases are constantly occurring, and tend very materially to restrain emigration in those who can stay at home, and to prevent the emigrants from returning when they have gone. The anxiety of the government to provide stores of food for the necessities of the people in times of scarcity, shows rather the fear of the disastrous results usually following a short crop, such as the gathering of clamorous crowds of starving poor, and the consequent increase of bandits and disorganization of society, than any peculiar care of the rulers for their subjects, or that these storehouses really supply deficiencies. The evil conse quences resulting from an overgrown population are experienced in one or another part of the provinces almost every year ; and drought, inundations, locusts, mildew, or other natural causes, give rise to nearly all the insurrections and disturbances which occur. The inference from such events, as well as from the prevalence of infanticide, the custom of selling the poor into domestic slavery, the existence of swarms of beggars among a generally industrious community, and the bounty paid on the importation of rice, is confirmatory of a superabundant popula- * Chinese Repository, Vol. I., page 332. \ Chinese Repository, Vol. VII., page 503; Vol. II., page 161. THE CENSUSES CANNOT EE VERIFIED. 225 tion. There can be no doubt, however, that, without adding a single acre to the area of arable land, these evils would be mate rially alleviated, if tbe intercommunication of traders and their goods, between distant parts of the country, were more frequent and safe ; but this is not likely to be the case until both rulers and ruled make greater advances in just government, obedience, and regard for each other's welfare. It would be a satisfaction in regard to this subject, if foreign ers could verify any part of the census. But this is, at present, impossible. They cannot examine the original records in the office of the Board of Revenue, nor can they ascertain the amount of population in a given district from the archives in the hands of the local authorities. Neither can they become ac quainted with the actual mode of enumeration so as to ascertain the degree of credibility to be attached to it, or the character of those who take it. Still less can they go through a village or town, and count the number of houses and their inhabitants, and calculate from actual examinations of a few parts what the whole would be. Wherever foreigners have gone, there has appeared much the same succession of waste land, hilly regions, cultivated plains, and wooded heights, as in other countries, with an abun dance of people, but not more than the land could support, if properly tilled. Most of their travels, however, have been along the great water-courses and thoroughfares, and not so much through the secluded agricultural districts, though perhaps this would not make much difference in the general impression of the amount of population. It is perhaps as easy to take a census in China as in most European countries, from the manner in which the people are grouped into hamlets and villages, called hiang, each of which is under the control of village elders and officers. In the dis trict of Nanhai, which forms the western part of the city of Can ton, and the surrounding country for more than a hundred square miles, there are one hundred and eighty hiang ; the population of each hiang varies from two hundred to one hundred thousand, but ordinarily ranges between three hundred and thirty-five hun dred. If each of the eighty-eight districts in the province of Kwangtung contain the same number of hiang, there will be, including the district towns, 15,928 villages, towns, and cities in all, with an average population of twelve hundred inhabitants to 11* 226 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. each. From the top of the hills on Dane's island at Whampoa, thirty-six towns and villages can be counted, of which Canton is one ; and four of these contain from twelve to fifteen hundred houses. The vicinity of Macao, and the whole district of Hiang shan in which that settlement lies, is also well covered with vii- lages, though their exact number is not known. The island of Amoy contains more than fourscore villages and towns, and this island forms only a part of the district of Tung-ngan. The banks of the river leading from Amoy up to Changchau fu, are likewise well peopled. The environs of Ningpo and Shanghai are well settled, though that is no more than one always expects of the country around large cities, where the demand for foft in the city itself causes the vicinity to be well peopled and well tilled. In a notice of an irruption of the sea in 1819, along the coast of Shantung, it was reported that a hundred and forty villages were laid under water, which indicates a well peopled country. The law respecting the enrolment of the people is contained in Sees. lxxv. and lxxvi. of the statutes.* It anacts various pe nalties for not registering the members of a family, and its pro visions all go to show that the people are desirous rather of evad ing the census than of exaggerating it. When a family has omitted to make any entry, the head of it is liable to be pu nished with one hundred blows if he is a freeholder, and with eighty if he is not. If the master of a family has among his household another distinct family whom he omits to register, the punishment is the same as in the last clause, with a modification, according as the iin registered persons and family are relatives or strangers. Persons in the employ of government omitting to register their families, are less severely punished. A master of family failing to register all the males in his household who are liable to public service, shall be punished from sixty to one hun dred blows, according to the demerits of the offence ; this clause was in effect repealed, when the land tax was substituted for the capitation tax. Omissions, from neglect or inadvertency, to register all the individuals and families in a village or town, on the part of the headmen or government clerks, are punishable with different degrees of severity. All 'persons whatsoever are to be registered according to their accustomed occupations or * Penal Code, page 79. MODE OF TAKING THE CENSUS. 227 professions, whether civil or military, whether couriers, artisans, physicians, astrologers, laborers, musicians, or of any other de nomination whatever ; and subterfuges in representing oneself as belonging to a profession not liable to public service, are visited as usual with the bamboo ; and persons falsely describing themselves as belonging to the army in order to evade public service are banished as well as beaten. " In the Chinese government," observes Dr. Morrison, " there appears great regularity and system. Every district has its ap propriate officers, every street its constable, and every ten houses their tything-mnn. Thus they have all the requisite means of ascertaining the population with considerable accuracy. Every family is required to have a board always hanging up in the house, and ready for the inspection of authorized officers, on which the names of all persons, men, women, and children, in the house are inscribed. This board is called mun-pai or door-tablet, because when there are women and children within, the officers are expected to take the account from the board at the door. Were all the inmates of a family faithfully inserted, the amount of the population would, of course, be ascertained with great accuracy. But it is said that names are sometimes omitted through" neglect or design ; others think that the account of per sons given in is generally correct." Both Dr. Morrison and his son, than whom no one has had better opportunities to know the true state of the case, or been more desirous of dealing fairly with the Chinese, regarded the censuses given in the General Statistics as more trustworthy than any other documents availa ble. A writer in the Repository says (Vol. I., p. 383), that a native tells him that the local officers are in the habit of making a lumping addition to the last census, and sending that in as the actual amount of population, without troubling themselves whe ther it be true or not. He says also that Chinese books, and above all Chinese state documents, are little to be trusted. This is indeed true, when compared with similar documents in Euro pean countries, but this person at the same time considers the native with whom he conversed, who had probably never exa mined the records of his own government for himself, as better authority than the state documents prepared by the most intelli- ' gent men in the service of the government. The internal evidences of the truth of these estimates of the 228 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. population of the Chinese empire are partly circumstantial and partly inferential. The purpose of taking the census is to ap portion the due amount of government officers and police to each district, and make suitable provision for the necessities of the people in case of famine. The equal levying of land taxes and collection of other revenues, also forms part of the design in ascertaining the population ; which is done, in short, for much the same purposes as it is in all countries. In conclusion, it may be asked, are the results of the enume ration of the people as contained in the statistical works published by the government, to be rejected or doubted, therefore, because the Chinese officers do not wish to ascertain the exact population ; or because they are not capable of doing it ; or, lastly, because they wish to impose upon and terrify foreign powers by an arith metical array of millions they do not possess ? The question seems to hang upon this trilemma. It is acknowledged that they falsify and garble statements in a manner calculated to throw doubt upon everything they write, as in the reports of victories and battles sent to the emperor during the last war, in the memo rials upon the opium trade, in their descriptions of natural ob jects in books of medicine, and in many other things. But the question is as applicable to China as to France : is the estimated population of France in 1801 to be called in question, because the Moniteur gave false accounts of Napoleon's battles in 1813 ? It would be a strange instance of national conceit and folly, for a ministry composed of men fully able to carry on all the details of a complicated government like that of China, to systematically exaggerate the population, and then proceed, for more than a century, with taxation, disbursements, and official appointments, founded upon these censuses. Somebody at least must know them to be utterly worthless, and the proof that they were so, must, one would think, ere long be apparent. The provinces and departments have been divided and subdivided since the Jesuits made their survey, because they were becoming too densely set tled for the same officers to rule over them. Still less will any one assert that the Chinese are not capable of taking as accurate a census, as they are of measuring dis- •tances, or laying out districts and townships. Errors may be found in the former as well as in the latter, and doubtless are so; for it is not contended that the four censuses of 1711, 1753, 1792, PROBABILITIES OF ERROR IN CENSUS. 229 and 1812 are as accurate as those taken in England, France, or the United States, but that they are the best data that we have, and that if they are rejected we leave tolerable evidence and take up with doubtful and suppositive ; — with what cool and im partial men, like Malte-Brun and the editor of the Encyclopaedia Americana, give instead. Nor does it seem likely that, con sidering the objects for which the census is now taken, that it has been exaggerated to impose upon themselves or upon foreigners. There is no sufficient motive for doing so ; and Mr. Morrison says, " We know from several authorities that the people are in the habit of diminishing rather than increasing their numbers in their reports to government." One reason, among others, for doing so is that the local officers may pocket the difference in the taxes assessed for collection from their districts. It is not improbable there may be an error of fifteen or twenty millions, or four or five per cent, in excess in the last census, but we have no means of proving it. On the other hand, it may be stated that in the last census, the entire population of Man churia, Koko-nor, 111', and Mongolia, is estimated at only 2,167,286 persons, and nearly all the inhabitants of those vast regions are subject to the emperor. The entire population of Tibet has never been included in any census, nnd it is very doubtful if an accurate enumeration of any part of the extra-provincial terri tory has ever been taken ; but the Chinese cannot be charged with exaggeration, when good judges, as Klaproth and others, reckon the whole at between six and seven millions. Khoten alone, one writer states at three and a half millions. No writer of importance estimates the inhabitants of these vast regions as high as thirty millions, as Mont. Martin does, which would be more than ten to a square mile, excluding Gobi ; while Siberia, though not so well peopled, has only 3,611,300 persons on an area of 2,649,600 sq. m., or 1 Shih 31,596,509 " 105,689,707 $200,958,694 The shih of rice is estimated at $3, but this does not include the cost of transportation to the capital on that sent hither. At two hundred millions of dollars, the tax received by government from each person on an average is about sixty cents ; Barrow estimates the capitation at about ninety cents. The account of the revenue in taels from each province given in the table of population on page 198, is extracted from the Red Book for 1840 ;" the account of the revenue in rice, as stated in the official documents for that year, is 4,114,000 shih, or about five hundred and fifty millions of pounds, calling each shih a pecul. The manner in which the various items of the revenue are divided is thus stated for Kwangtung, in the Red Book for 1842 : * Annales de la Foi, tome XVI., page 440. 236 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. Land tax in money, 1,264,304 taels, Pawnbrokers' taxes, 5,990 Taxes at the frontier and on transportation, . . . 719,307 Retained, 339,143 Miscellaneous sources, 59,530 Salt department and gabel, 47,510 Revenue from customs at Canton, 43,750 Other stations in the province, 53,670 2,533,204 This is evidently merely the sum sent to the capital from this province, ostensibly as the revenue, and which the provincial treasury must collect. The real receipts from this province or any other cannot well be ascertained by foreigners ; it is, how ever, known, that in former years, the collector of customs at Canton was obliged to remit annually from 800,000 to 1,300,000 taels, and the gross receipts of his office were not far from three millions of taels.* This was well known to be the best collectorate in the empire, but the difference between the sum mentioned in the Red Book of 43,750 taels, and the actual receipts, is so great as to show that the whole system of revenue is imperfect in practice so far as Chinese statistical accounts furnish us with means of judging. De Guignes has examined the subject of the revenue with his usual caution, and bases his calculations on a proclamation of Kienlung in 1777, in which it was stated that the total income in bullion at that period was 27,967,000 taels. Income in money as above, taels, 27,967,000 Equal revenue in kind from grain, ...... 27,967,000 Tax on the second crop in the southern provinces, . . . 21,800,000 Gabel, coal, transit duties, &c, 6,479,400 Customs at Canton, ... 800,000 Revenue from silk, porcelain, varnish, and other manufactures, . 7,000,000 Adding house and shop taxes, licenses, tonnage duties, &c, . 4,000,000 'Total revenue, . taels, S9,713,400 The difference of about eighty millions of dollars between this amount and that given by Dr. Medhurst, will not surprise any one. All these calculations are based on approximations, which, although easily made up, cannot be verified in any degree or * Chinese Commercial Guide, 2d edition, page 143. SOURCES AND AMOUNT OF REVENUE. 237 manner ; but all agree in placing the total amount of revenue below "that of any European government in proportion to the population. The sagacity of the Manchu monarchs has been remarkably exhibited in this important part of their system ; and, far from desiring to extort as much revenue as possible from their subjepts, they soon laid down well understood rates of taxation, from which there has not since been any material deviation. The extraordinary sources of revenue which are resorted to in time of war or bad harvests, are sale of office and honors, tem porary increase of duties, and demands for contributions from wealthy merchants and landholders. The first is the most fruit ful source, and may be regarded rather as a permanent than a temporary expediency employed to make up deficiencies. The mines of gold and silver, pearl fisheries in Manchuria and else where, precious stones brought from lli and Khoten, and other similar sources, furnish several millions. The expenditures, almost every year, exceed the revenue, but how the deficit is supplied does not clearly appear. In 1832, the emperor said the excess of disbursements was 28 millions of taels ;* and, in 1836, the defalcation was still greater, and offi ces and titles to the amount of ten millions of taels were put up for sale to supply it. This deficiency has become more and more alarming since the great drain of specie annually sent abroad in payment for opium has attained its present amount, and the shifts of the government to provide for its ordinary ex penses have been more varied and oftener resorted to. The prin cipal items of the expenditure are thus stated by De Guignes. Salary of civil and military officers, a tithe of the impost on lands, 7,773,500 Pay of 600,000 infantry, three taels per month, half in money and half in rations, . . 21,600,000 Pay of 242,000 cavalry, at four taels per month, . . . 11,616,000 Mounting the cavalry, 20 taels each, 4,840,000 Uniforms for both arms of the service, 4 taels .... 3,368,000 Arms and ammunition, 842,000 Navy, revenue cutters, &c, 13,500,000 Canals and transportation of revenue 4,000,000 Forts, artillery, and munitions of war 3,800,000 Taels, . . 71,339,500 Chinese Repository, Vol. I., page 159. 238 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM / This, according to his calculation, shows a surplus of nearly 20 millions of taels every year. But the outlays for quelling insurrections and transporting troops, deficiency from bad har vests, defalcation of officers, payments to the tribes and princes in Mongolia and Iii, and other unusual demands, more than ex ceed this surplus. In 1833, the Peking Gazette contained an elaborate paper on the revenue by Na, a Manchu censor in Kiangsi, proposing various ways and means for increasing it. He says the income from land-tax, the gabel, customs and transit duty, does not altogether exceed forty millions of taels, while the expenditures should not much exceed thirty in years of peace.* This places the budget much lower than other authorities, and this censor perhaps includes only the imperial resources, though the estimate then would be too high. The pay and equipment of the troops is the largest item of expenditure, and it is proba ble that here the apparent force and pay are far too great, and that reductions are constantly made in this department by com pelling the soldiers to depend more and more for support upon the plats of land belonging to them. It is considered the best evidence of good government on the part of an officer to render his account of the revenue satisfactorily, but from the injudicious system which exists of combining fiscal, legislative, and judicial functions and control in the same person, the temptations to de fraud are strong, and the peculations proportion ably great. The salaries of the provincial officers are not high. That of a governor-general is 20,000 taels ; a lieutenant-governor, 16,000 ; a. treasurer, 9000 ; provincial judge, 6000 ; prefect, 3000 ; dis trict magistrates from 2000 down to 800, according to the size of the district ; literary chancellor, 3000 ; commander-in-chief, 4000 ; general, 2400 ; colonels, 1300 ; and gradually decreas ing according to rank down to 130 taels per annum. The per quisites of the highest and lowest officers are disproportionate, for the people prefer to lay their important cases before the high est courts at once, in order to avoid the expense of passing through those of a lower grade. The personal disposition of the functionary modifies the exactions he makes upon the people so much, that no guess can be made as to the amount. The land-tax is the principal resource for the revenue in rural * Chinese Repository, Vol. II., page 431 SALARIES OF OFFICERS AND RATE OF TAXATION. 239 districts, and this is well understood by all parties, so that there is little room for exactions. The land-tax is from l£ to 10 cents a mau, or from 10 to 66 cents an acre, according to the quality of the land, and difficulty of tillage ; taking the average at 25 cents an acre, the income from this source would be upwards of 150 millions of dollars. The clerks, constables, lictors, and un derlings of the courts and prisons, are the " claws " of their superiors, as the Chinese aptly call them, and perform most of their extortions, and are correspondingly detested by the people. In towns and trading places, it is easier for the officers to exact in various ways from wealthy people, than in the country, where rich people often hire bodies of retainers to defy the police, and practise extortion and robbery themselves. Like other Asiatic governments, China suffers from the consequences of bribery, peculation, extortion, and poorly-paid officers, but she has no powerful aristocracy to retain the money thus squeezed out of the people, and erelong it finds its way out of the hoards of empe rors and ministers back into the mass of the people. The Chi nese believe, however, that the emperor annually remits such amounts as he is able to collect into Moukden, placing them there as a resource in case of need ; these probably consist of precious stones and regalia rather than bullion or stores ; and it is not likely that the value of the articles thus stored away at present amounts to nearly as much as it once did, or was ever as great as has been represented. The portion of the revenue ap plied to filling the granaries is much larger, but this popular provision in case of need is really a light draft upon the re sources of the country, as it is usually managed. In Canton, there are only fourteen buildings appropriated to this purpose, few of them more than thirty feet square, and none of them full. CHAPTER VI. Natural History of China. The succinct account of the natural history of China given by Davis, contains nearly all the popular notices of much value at present known, collected by him from the writings of travellers and his own observations. A few additional items of information derived from other sources, will comprise most that is worth re peating on this subject. Malte-Brun observed long ago, " That of even the more general, and according to the usual estimate, the more important features of that vast sovereignty, we owe whatever knowledge we have obtained to some ambassadors who have seen the courts and the great roads, — to certain merchants who have inhabited a suburb of a frontier town, — and to several missionaries, who, generally more credulous than discriminating, have contrived to penetrate in various directions into the interior." The compilers of the work upon China in the Edinburgh Cabinet Library, have brought together a great number of facts relating to the botany and zoology of China, the list of plants given in the Vllth chapter being the best heretofore published. The col lections of Mr. Fortune, who was sent out by the Horticultural Society during the years 1844 and 1845, to the vicinity of the five ports, when described, will probably enlarge our present in formation on these topics more than anything which has yet been written. The opportunities which will be offered for examining the productions of the country in the vicinity of those newly opened places, will no doubt gradually increase until our know ledge of the natural history of China is somewhat comparable to its extent and variety. Personal investigation is particularly necessary in all that re lates to the geology and fossils of a country, and the knowledge possessed on these heads is consequently exceedingly meagre ; confined for the most part to desultory notices of the coasts and waters through which the embassies passed, or description of de- COAL ABUNDANT IN CHINA. 241 tached specimens. The vast stepps of Mongolia and wilds of Manchuria, with tho mountainous ranges of Tibet, Songaria, and the western provinces of Sz'chuen and Kansuh, and the salt lake regions in and along the great Desert, are consequently utter ly unknown, except a few notices of the most general character. It cannot be doubted that so peculiar a part of the world as the table land of Central Asia will, when thoroughly examined, solve many problems relating to geology, and disclose many important facts to illustrate the obscure phenomena of other parts of the world. The few notices of the geological formations which are fur nished in the writings of travellers, have already been given to a considerable extent in the geographical account of the pro vinces. The summary given by Sir John Davis is a well digest ed survey of the observations collected by the gentlemen attach ed to the embassies, and need not be repeated.* The metal lic and mineral productions of China used in the arts, comprise nearly everything found in other countries, and they are furnished in such abundance, and at such rates, as conclusively show that they are plenty and easily worked. Coal is generally used for fuel in all those places which have been visited, and the supply might probably be greatly increased by introducing European machinery and modes of working it. The boats on the North river, below Nanhiung, lie near the mouth of a horizontal shaft worked into the mine, above which the cliffs are scarped down as the shaft advances. The ignorance of the Chinese of the best modes of draining and ventilating mines, must necessarily prevent working many of them beyond a certain depth and extent. The mountains of Shansi and Chihli supply large quantities of this valuable mineral, and many boats find constant employ ment in bringing a coarse 0. TO* 250 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. species of wild-cat occurs in the province of Kwangtung, which is sought for as game, and is served at tables after proper feed ing, as an expensive delicacy. Lynxes are also found in the country. The domestic animals used by the Chinese offer few pecu liarities. The cat, or " household fox," is a favorite inmate of families, and the ladies of Peking are fond of a variety of the Angora cat, provided with long hair and hanging ears, which they carry about in the same way western ladies do their poodles. The common species is usually grey or black, many of them destitute of a tail, and when reared for food, it is fed on rice and vegetables. The dog and hog are the most common domestic animals. The first differs but little from its congener among the Esquimaux, and along the northern shores of the American and Asiatic con tinents, and is perhaps the original of the species. There is but little difference in their size, which is about a foot high, and two feet in length ; the color is a pale yellow or black, and always plain, with coarse bristling hair, and tails curling up high over the back, and rising so abruptly from the insertion that it has been humorously remarked, they almost assist in lifting the legs from the ground. The hind legs are unusually straight, which gives them an awkward look, and perhaps prevents them running very rapidly. The eyes are jet black, small and piercing, and the insides of their lips and mouths, and the tongue, are of the same color, or a blue black. The bitch has a dew-claw on each hind leg, but the dog has none. The ears are sharp and upright, the head quite peaked, and the bark very unlike the deep sonorous baying of our mastiffs, but a short thick snap. One item in the Chinese description of the dog is that it •• can go on three legs ;" a gait that is often exhibited by them. They are used as guards to houses, but are by no means as intelligent or faithful as the animal in western lands. The dogs about Canton are often diseased with the mange, and present hideous spectacles ; some ascribe its prevalence to their vegetable diet. They are not so wild and voracious as the dogs in Syria and Egypt, but still they roam about seeking for food. One writer says, speaking of the worship offered at the tombs, on one occasion, " That hardly had the hillock been abandoned by tho worshippers, when packs of hungry dogs came DOMESTIC ANIMALS, DOG, BUFFALO, ETC. 251 running up to devour the part of the offerings left for the dead, or to lick up the grease on the ground. Those who came first held up their heads, bristled their hair, and showed a proud and satisfied demeanor, curling and moving their tails with an inso lent air ; while the late comers, tails between their legs, held their heads and ears down. Tliere was one of them, however, which, grudging the fare, held his nose to the wind as if snuffing for better luck ; but one lean, old, and ugly beast, with a flayed back and hairless tail, was seen gradually separating himself from the band, though without seeming to hurry himself, making a thousand doublings and windings, all the while looking back to see if he was noticed. But the old sharper knew what he was about, and as soon as he thought himself at a safe distance, away he went like an arrow, the whole pack after him, to some other feast and some other tomb."* The breed of cattle and horses is smaller than the European, and nothing is done to improve the race. The oxen are some times not larger than an ass, and have a small hump between the shoulders ; the dewlap is large, and the contour remarkably neat and symmetrical. The forehead is* round, the horns small and irregularly curved, and the general color dun red ; the hump is often entirely wanting. They are reared about Whampoa and Macao, for supplying foreigners with beef and milk, though occasionally seen in the harness. The buffalo, or " water ox," as the Chinese call it, is not as large as the Indian or Egyptian animal, but much the largest beast used in agriculture, ft is very docile, and about the size of an English ox ; the hairless hide is a light black color, and tho animal seeks refuge from the gnat, and coolness for itself in muddy pools, dug for its conve nience near villages, where it wallows in the ooze with its nose just above the surface. Each horn is nearly semicircular, and bends downwards, while the head is turned up so much that the nose is nearly horizontal. This animal must not be confounded with the buffalo or bison of the western prairies of America, for no two quadrupeds of the same genus can be more unlike in their habits. The herdboys who- drive the buffalo usually ride it, and the metaphor of a country lad astride a buffalo's back, blowing the flute, usually enters into a Chinese description of " La Chine Uuverte, page 1 17. 252 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. rural scenery. The yak or grunting ox of Tibet is employed in that country and the whole region of the Himalayas, as a beast of burden, and to furnish food and raiment. It is covered with a mantle of hair reaching nearly to the ground, somewhat like the musk ox of North America, and the soft pelage is used for making standards among the Persians, and its tail as fly-flaps or chowries in India ; the hair is woven into carpets, and also dyed red for a covering to official caps in China. The wild buffalo of India is noticed in Chinese authors, but it is doubtful whether it now exists in the country. The domestic sheep is the broad-tailed species, and furnishes excellent mutton ; it is not so common as the goat in the north ern provinces. The tail is sometimes ten inches long, and three or four thick ; and the size of this fatty member does not appear to be much affected by the temperature, nor to deteriorate the quality of the mutton. There are many kinds of deer in the country, and the wealthy often keep a species of spotted deer or axis in their grounds, re sembling the gazelle in its light form and expressive eyes ; it is called kin-tsien luh, or money deer, from the white spots on its sides. A beautiful species of mouse deer, with very long hind legs, is found in the south, which is also kept in paddocks and gardens. One of the most common species of this family is the dzeren or hwang yang {Antelope gutlurosa), met with in many parts of the country, but especially on the borders of the desert between Tibet and Turkestan. This Chinese antelope is some what heavy in body, its horns short and thick, about nine inches long, annulated to the very tips, reclining backwards, divergent, wavy, and the points turned inwards. The nose is blunt, the lips surrounded with long hairs, ears small and pointed. The most remarkable feature is a large movable protuberance in the throat, occasioned by the dilatation of the larynx, and appearing externally with long stiff hairs pointing forwards ; in the old males it is monstrously enlarged. Like its congener, the spring bok in Southern Africa, it avoids woody places, and frequents open plains and barren mountains. It is very swift, and takes surprising bounds when running, and is usually seen in herds.* The musk deer (Moschus moschiferus), called she or hiang * Murray^ China, Vol. III., page 408. Penny Cyclopaedia, Vol. II., pago 73. ANTELOPE, M'JSK DEER, HORSE, ETC. 253 chang, is much more celebrated than the Chinese antelope. This animal roams over a vast extent of alpine territory, from Tibet and Shensi to lake Baikal, and is everywiiere an object of eager chase on account of the odorous substance it produces, and which has long been an article of commerce among Asiatic and Euro pean nations. Like the chamois, the musk deer inhabits the loftiest cliffs and defiles, and makes its way over rugged moun tains with great rapidity. It has no horns, and is not unlike the roe in general appearance, though the projecting teeth make the upper lip look broad. Its color is greyish brown, unci its limbs slight. The musk is contained in a- pouch beneath the tail on the male, and is most abundant during the rutting season. It is taken in nets or shot, and the hunters are said to allure it to its destruction by secreting themselves and playing the flute, though some would say the animal showed very little taste in attending to such sounds as Chinese flutes usually produce. The musk is often adulterated with clay by the hunters or traders, or when used, is mixed with other substances to moderate its powerful odor. The argali and jiggetai roam over the ranges of the H;ngan ling, and their flesh and skins are sought after. The horse commonly seen in China is a mere pony, not much larger than the Shetland pony ; it is bony and strong, but kept with little care, and presents a worse appearance than it would if its hair were trimmed, its fetlocks shorn, and its tail untied. This custom of knotting the tail is an ancient practice, and the sculptures at' Persepolis show tbat the same fashion prevailed among the Persians. The Chinese language possesses a great variety of terms . to designate the horse ; the difference of age, sex, color, and disposition, are all denoted by particular charac ters. Piebald and mottled white and bay horses are not uncom mon ; but in China the improvement of this noble animal js altogether neglected, and he looks sorry enough compared with the coursers of India. He is principally used for carrying the post, or for military services ; asses and mules being more em ployed for draught in the eastern provinces, and camels in Central Asia. The Chinese books speak of a mule of a cow and horse, as well as from the ass and horse, though it is well known no such hybrid as the former ever existed. The elephant is kept at Peking for show, but it is likely that the sixty animals there in the days of Kienlung, when Bell saw 254 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. them, have since dwindled to less than half that number. Van Braam says he ¦ met six going into Peking, sent thither by an officer from Yunnan. The deep forests of that province also harbor the rhinoceros and tapir. The horn of the former is much sought after as medicine, and the best pieces are carved into drinking cups, which are supposed to sweat whenever any poisonous liquid is put into them. The tapir is the white and brown animal found in the Malacca peninsula, and strange stories are told of its eating stones and copper. The wild boar occurs in the same extensive region, lying between Siam and China, and also in the mountains in the provinces. They are quite nume rous in the hills of Chehkiang, and seriously annoy the husband men in the lowlands, by their depredations upon the fields. Deep pits are dug near the base of the hills, and covered with a bait of fresh grass, and many are annually captured or drowned in them. They are fond of the tender shoots of bamboo, and per sons are stationed near the groves to frighten them away by striking pieces of wood together with a loud noise. The Chinese Pig. The Chinese pig is well known for its short legs, round body, crooked back, and abundance of fat. Its introduction into the stys of western farmyards has greatly improved the European breed. The black Chinese breed, as it is called in England, is considered the best pork raised in that country. The Chinese WILD BOAR AND DOxMESTIC HOG. 255 are fully aware of the perverse disposition of the hog when driven, and find it much more expeditious to carry instead of driving him through their narrow streets. So uniformly is this done, that loose cylindrical baskets of bamboo, open at both ends, are made for this purpose, in which tho hog can easily be carried. In order to capture the obstinate brute, the basket is secured just outside the half opened gate of the pen, and the men seize him by the tail and pull it lustily ; his rage is roused by the pain, and he struggles ; they let go their hold, whereupon he darts out of the gate to escape, and finds himself snugly caught. A pole is then thrust through the basket lengthwise, on which he is lifted up and unresistingly carried off. Mode of carrying Pigs. The Quarterly Journal of Agriculture (Vol. III., p. 42) quoted by Mr. Burnet, describes several varieties of the hog known in Europe, among which are the cochon de Siam and the pore de no bles, which have evidently been derived from and improved by the Chinese animal. The cheapness with which pork is fat tened, and the usefulness of the hog as a scavenger, make it one of the most profitable animals for the Chinese to rear, though the miscellaneous garbage composing its food deteriorates the flesh. The camel is employed in the caravans which cross.the desert, 256 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. between Kiakhta and Kalgan, and westward from Kansuh to Hami, lli, and the Caspian, but it is rarely seen south of Peking, nor very frequently in that city. Du Halde describes them as having two humps, " covered with thick hair as long as goats ; some of them are of a yellowish dun color, others are reddish or ash colored ; the legs are not so slender as those of the common camel, and seem better fitted for carrying burdens." The Chinese have employed the camel in war, and trained it to carry small swivels on its back ; one sort is called fung-kioh to, or wind-footed camel, on account of its swiftness, it being employed in carrying light burdens and messengers across the desert. The smaller tribes of animals have their representatives in China, and among them many which are interesting to the sports man. Staunton speaks of a species of hare which was abun dant in the valleys beyond the Great Wall towards .leh ho. It resembled the species known in Northern Europe in that it changed its color during winter from brown to white, but was remarkable for the great length of its feet, which formed a broad support in scampering over the snow. Hares, rabbits, squirrels, deer, and other game, are not chased by dogs trained for the purpose, but when the emperor or his grandees engage in the sport, a large space is surrounded, and all the animals in it driven to the centre. Game is brought to Peking in great abun dance in the winter in a frozen state, and the list, according to Du Halde, includes bucks, does, wild-boars, goats, hares, rabbits, squirrels, cats, field rats, geese, ducks, woodcocks, pheasants, quails, and several others not met with in Europe. The fox is not unusual ; it is a raccoon faced animal, and has been named the Canis procyonoides, from its resemblance. Both the Chinese and Japanese enLertain singular superstitions regarding this ani mal, believing it lo be frequently possessed by evil spirits for the purpose of tormenting mankind, and that fairies, gnomes, ogres, and goblins transform themselves into it for the purpose of executing their spite. The wolf partakes somewhat of the same supernatural character. The pelage of the fox, hare, wolf, wild cat, and other fur-bearing animals, furnishes the hair used in the manufacture of writing pencils. Besides these, the martin, er mine, silver fox, ratel, wolverine, sea and land otter, and proba bly many others, are sought for by hunters through the forests and watery of Manchuria. ANT-EATER AND SMALL WILD AJM1MALS. 257 No animals have puzzled the Chinese more than the scaly ant- eater, manis, or pangolin, and the flying squirrel. The former is regarded as a fish out of water, and is hence called ling-li or hill carp; also dragon carp, and the " scaly hill-borer." "Its form resembles a crocodile," says one author ; " it can go in dry paths as well as in water ; it has four legs. In the daytime, it ascends the banks of the stream, and lying down on the ground, opens its scales wide, and puts on the appearance of death, which induces the ants to enter between the scales. As soon as they have done so, the animal closes its scales and re enters the water, and then opens them, when all the insects float out dead, and he devours them at leisure." Another and better observer says it continually protrudes its tongue to entice ants, on which it feeds ; and, true to Chinese physiological deduction, he accordingly recommends tho scales as a remedy for all antish swellings. The manis is quite common in tho southern provin ces, and the Chinese employ parts of it for medicinal purposes ; they have observed that the scales consist of the agglutinated hair of the body, and are not bony scales. The flying-squirrel is classed among birds, and one name given it signifies that it is the only bird which suckles its young when it flies. The skin held in the hand during parturition will render delivery easier, " because the animal is of a remarkably lively disposition."* The porcupine, hedgehog, marmot, weasel, and many soecies of rats and mice, are known to occur in various parts of the country. The Chinese bamboo rat, or chuh shu (Rhyzomys Chinensu), is found in the western part df Kwangtung. The common Norway water rat has found its way to Canton, where it infests the river banks. The sea-otter has been seen near Macao. The estuary of the Pearl rivor contains a large species of white dolphin or porpoise, which the fishermen there call pak M, and regard with great reverence, always setting it at liberty whenever entangled in their nets. It is perhaps allied to the Delphinaptorus ; the snout is sharp, the body thick and clumsy, from six to eight feet long, and the color a dun white. Porpoises occur in the Yangtsz' kiang, where they are called " river pigs." Whales are found off the coast of Hainan, and gulf of Tonquin, * Chinese Repository, Vol. VII., pages 48, 91. 258 • THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. where they are caught by the fishermen, who go out in fleets of small boats from three to twenty-five tons burden each, fifty boats going together. The line is about 350 feet long, made of native hemp, and fastened to the mast, the end leading over the bow. Tbe harpoon has one barb, and is attached to a wooden handle ; through an eye near the socket, the line is so fastened along the handle, that when the whale begins to strain upon it, the handle draws out upon the line, leaving only the barb buried in the skin. The boat is sailed directly upon the fish, and the harpooner strikes from the bow just behind the blow-hole. As soon as the fish is struck, the sail is lowered, the rudder un shipped, and the boat allowed to drag stern foremost until the prey is exhausted. Other boats come up to assist, and half a dozen harpoons soon dispatch it. The species most common there is the right whale, and yield about 50 bbls. each ; the oil, flesh, and bone are all used for food or in manufactures. The fish resort to the shallow waters in those seas for food, and to roll and rub themselves on the banks and reefs to get rid of the barnacles and insects which torment them ; they are often seen leaping entirely out of water, and falling back perpendicularly against the hard bottom.* The Yellow sea affords a species of cow-fish, or round-headed cachalot (Globicepluilus Rissii), which the Japanese capture ;f and other species of whales resort to the waters east of Manchu ria. Seals have been observed on the coasts of Liautung, but no thing is known of their species or habits. The birds of China are less known than the mammiferse, though some of the more splendid species have long been sought after. The emperors of the Mongol dynasty were very fond of the chase, and famous for their love of the noble amusement of falconry, and Marco Polo says Kublai employed no less than seventy thousand attendants in his hawking excursions. Fal cons, kites, and other birds of prey were taught to pursue their quarry, and the Venetian speaks of eagles trained to stoop at wolves, and of such size and strength that none could escape their talons. Ranking has collected a great number of notices of the mode and sumptuousness of the field sports of the Mongols in China and India, but they convey little more information to * Chinese Repository.Vol. XII., page 608. t Ibid., Vol. VI., page 411. BIRDS REARED FOR SONGSTERS. 259 the naturalist, than that the game was abundant and comprised a vast variety. Many species of accipitrine birds are described in Chinese books, but they are spoken of so vaguely that nothing definite can be learned from the notices. It is in the forests and mountains of Manchuria that beasts and birds of prey find food and shelter, and not in the cultivated regions of the south, and Chinese naturalists have not explored those wilds. None of thein are now trained for sport by the Chinese, though hawking is still a favorite pastime for the princes of the Japanese isles. Owls of several species are common, and are sometimes exposed for sale iu the markets of Canton, though not intended for the table. The butcher-bird, or an allied species, is a native of China, ancl the books notice its habit, of impaling small birds and grasshop pers on thorns, before devouring them. The tribes of fly-catchers, grackles, thrushes, and goatsuckers, all have numerous representatives in China, and some of them are of great beauty. A kind of thrush, called hwa mi, or " pic tured eyebrow," of a greyish yellow color, is often kept in cages as a song-bird, and when well trained, bears a high price. There is a variety called peh hwa mi, from the predominance of white iri the plumage. Another species of thrush of a dark plumage, called wu shi kill, is likewise reared as a songster ; it is larger than the hwa mi, and often carried out upon a perch by native gentlemen in their strolls. There is a species of thrush ( Turdus violaceus), " with the feathers of the head, neck, breast, and wing- coverts steel-blue, and a white spot on the wings ;" which is also an attendant of their leisure hours. A party of Chinese gentle men are not unfrequently seen, each with a cage or perch in his hands, seated on the grass, or rambling over the fields actively engaged in catching grasshoppers for their pets. The spectacle thrush, so designated " because its eyes are surrounded by a black circle bearing a fancied resemblance to a pair of specta cles," is also reared in cjaptivity. But the favorite song-bird is the lark, of which there are three sorts reared for sale ; it is called peh ling, i. e. " hundred-spirit bird," from its activity and ¦melody. Twenty-five or thirty dollars is not an uncommon price to pay for a famous songster. The mino-bird, or Indian gracklc, is sometimes brought to Can ton, but has not been seen wild in that region. It is remarkable for the yellow caruncles which extend from the back of the eye to- 260 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. wards the occiput, and look somewhat like ears. The swallow ¦ is a favorite with the Chinese, and builds its nest unmolested in their dwellings under the unceiled roofs. Sparrows and crows are common about Canton ; the former are exceedingly abundant and troublesome from their depredations in gardens. Tho crow is larger than the common species, and remarkable for a white ring about the neck ; he is regarded as a sacred bird, either from a service rendered b}' one of his race to the ancestors of the pre sent monarchs, like that given by the spider to Mohammed, or because he is an emblem of filial duty, from a notion that the young assist their parents when disabled. Two or three species of warblers or robins are domesticated for their musical powers, and the Java sparrow is taught to perform many tricks, one of which is often exhibited by the bird-fanciers at Canton, who shuf fle a pack of cards, and then present them to the bird to pick out the one previously shown it. ¦ The red-billed magpie is a beautiful bird. " Its size exceeds the common English bird, and the great length of its tail bestows upon it a more slender and elegant aspect. The prevailing co lors are blue, with bars of black and white. When seen amid the foliage of trees, it forms an ornamental and conspicuous ob ject, flitting from, bough to bough with its long and flowing tail, its whole form full of grace, and vivacity in every movement."* There are also several other species of crows, jays, and magpies, one of which is the blue crow observed by Pallas in Siberia. The habits of the cuckoo of laying its eggs in the nests of other birds, and thus avoiding all maternal cares of its' own, are known to the Chinese ; it is called kuku as with us, in imitation of its note. In the fens and rice-grounds of the south, a beautifully variegated kind of kingfisher, not much larger than a sparrow, called/? fsui by the Chinese, builds its nest; the plumage is red and green mixed with blue on the breast. It- is much sought af ter for its feathers, which are employed for many ornamental purposes. A very tasteful specimen of art is sometimes made by first forming a miniature landscape within a box of wood and pasteboard, and then covering the houses, fields, and other parts with these lustrous feathers, placing a few figures of men and cattle to fill up the scene. The tools employed in this beautiful kind of Mosaic are merely two or three chisels and knives, and a * Gould's Century of Birds; Murray's China, Vol. II., page 417, MANY SPECIES OF PHEASANTS. 261 brush filled with gum or glue. The vane of the plumes of par rots is too coarse for this purpose, but that of the tiny avedavat is often employed, as well as the kingfisher. The parrot is a native of China, but the birds of this tribe sold in the streets of Canton, as macaws, cockatoos, loris, and parro- keets, are mostly brought from the Archipelago. Not so the magnificent species of pheasants, which have so long been the ornament of aviaries, most of which come from China. The gold and silver pheasants are now so extensively reared that it is doubtful if they are found wild, though it is not improbable that the latter still frequent the woods of the central provinces. The prevailing colors of the golden pheasant are yellow and red, fine ly blending with each other in different shades. The silver pheasant is larger than its rival, and more stately in its gait. Its silvery back and tail only show the more beautifully in contrast with the steel blue of the breast and belly, rendering, the peh Men, as it is called by the Chinese, one of the most splendid birds known. The females of both species present a remarkable con trast by their plainness and humble bearing. The Phasianus superbus, or barred-tailed pheasant, is another magnificent mem ber of this genus, remarkable for the great length of its tail fea thers, some of which have been seen seven feet long, though com monly not over four. They are barred with alternate white and yellowish bands, and are, often seen in the caps of performers acting the brave hero on the theatre. Its body is not so large or showy as the silver pheasant, nor is the bird so graceful in its movements. The first specimen was procured by the late Mr. Beale in 1808, and four other cocks were purchased by him in 1831, of which part were taken to England by Mr. Reeves in 1832, and first made known to the naturalists there, and thence called Reeves' pheasant. The female has not been described. China also affords the argus pheasant, or a species allied to it, for the natives have founded their fung-hwang or phcenix upon it. It is called the argus pheasant from the great number of eyes on its tail and wing feathers, and its plumage gives it a much larger size than any others of the family. " This great apparent size arises chiefly from the peculiar formation of the wings, of which the secondaries are three times the length of the quill-feathers, being nearly three feet long. In consequence of this unwieldy extent of that portion of the wing which is not un- 262 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. der the power of much muscular action, the bird is alleged to be almost entirely destitute of the power of flight. Its pace, how ever, when running on the ground, is greatly accelerated, the expanded secondaries acting as powerful sails, and furnishing a very fleet and effectual mode of transportation. In its plumy state, it measures about five feet three inches, the tail being nearly four feet long." This description is taken from the Ja vanese bird, but is also nearly applicable to the Chinese species. The peacock pheasant is the only bird which can compete with it for gaiety of apparel, but this is a much smaller kind, though exceedingly beautiful. The medallion pheasant, sometimes called the iris peacock, is another elegant bird, " so called from a beautiful membrane of resplendent colors on the neck, which is displayed or contracted according as the cock is more or less roused. The hues are chiefly purple, with bright red and green spots, which vary in intensity according to the degree of excite ment, and become developed during the early spring months or pairing season." It has tufts of feathers near the ears, whence it is also called the horned pheasant. It freely breeds in cap tivity, but is kept only for its beauty. The peacock is reared in many parts of China, and has long been known to the people, though it is not a native of the country. The use of the tail feathers to designate official rank, which pro bably causes a large consumption of them annually, does not date previous to the last dynasty. Poultry is reared in immense quantities, and its flesh at Canton is of a poor quality. There is one variety, called the silken cock, which has the vane of the feathers so minutely, divided that it resembles curlv hair rather than feathers ; the color is generally a plain black. This is probably the same variety described by some writers as having wool like sheep. The other wild fowl of the gallinaceous order, as partridges, francolins, quails, woodcocks, system of strict surveillance and mutual responsibility among all classes. These are aided in their efficiency by the geographical isolation of the country, by a difficult language, and a general system of political education and official examinations. They are enforced by such a minute gradation of rank and subordination of officers,- as to give the government more of a military character than at first appears, and the whole system is such as to make it one of the most unmixed despotisms now existing. It is like a network extending over the whole face of society, each individual being isolated in his own mesh, and responsibly connected with all around him. The man who knows that it is almost impossible, except by entire seclusion, to escape from the company of secret or acknowledged emissaries of government, will be cautious of offending the laws of the country, knowing, as he must, that though he should himself escape, yet his family, his kindred, or his neighbors, will suffer for his offence ; that if unable to recompense the sufferers, it will probably be dangerous for him to return home ; or if he does, it will be most likely to find his property in the possession of neighbors or officers of the government, who feel conscious of security in plundering one whose offences have for ever placed him under the ban of the implacable taw. The effect of these two causes upon the mass of the people is to imbue them with a great fear of the government, both of its officers and its operations; each man considers that safety is to be found alone in absolute withdrawal. This mutual surveil lance and responsibility, though only partially extended through out the people, necessarily undermines every principle of confi dence, and infuses universal distrust; and this object of complete isolation, thougli at the expense of justice, truth, honesty, and natural affection, is what the government strives to accomplish, and actually does to a wonderful degree. The idea of govern ment in the minds of the people, is like the sword of Damo- THREE PRINCIPLES OF CONTROL. 299 cles ; and so far has this undefined fear of some untoward result when connected with it counteracted the real vigor of the Chi nese, that much of their indifference to improvement, content ment with what is already known and possessed, and submission to petty spoliation of individuals, may be referred to it. Men are deterred, too, by distrust of each other, as much as by fear of the police, from combining in an intelligent manner to resist governmental exactions because opposed to principles of equity, or joining with their rulers to uphold good order; no such men, and no such instances, as John Hampden going to prison for refusing to contribute to a loan, or Ezekiel Williams and his companions throwing the tea overboard in Boston harbor, ever occurred in China or any other Asiatic country. They dread illegal societies quite as much from the cruelties this same principle induces the leaders to exercise over recreant or sus pected members, as from apprehension of arrest and punishment by the regular authorities. Thus, with a state of society at times on the verge of insurrection, this mass of people is kept in check by the threefold cord of responsibility , fear, and isohtion;* each of them strengthening the other, and all of them depend ing upon the character of the people for much of their efficiency. Since all the officers of government received their intellectual training when plebeians under these influences, it is easy to un derstand why the supreme powers are so averse to improvement and to foreign intercourse — from both which causes, in truth, the state has the greatest reason to dread lest the charm of its power be broken, and its sceptre pass away. There is, it is true, a further explanation for the general peace which prevails in China, to be found partly in the diffusion of a political education among the people, teaching them the principles on which the government is founded, and the reasons for those principles flowing from the patriarchal theory ; and partly in their ' plodding, peaceable, industrious character. Brief notices of the! construction and divisions of the central and provincial govern ments, and their mutual relations, and the various duties devolv ing upon the departments and officers, will exhibit more of the operation of these principles. Although the emperor is regarded as the head of this great organization, as the fly-wheel which sets the other wheels of the machine in motion, he is still considered as bound to rule it accord- 300 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. ing to the published laws of the land ; and when there is a well known law, though the source of law, he is expected to follow it in his decrees. The laws of China form an edifice, the founda tions of which were laid by Li Kwei twenty centuries ago. Suc cessive dynasties have been building thereon ever since, adding, altering, pulling down, and building up, as circumstances seemed to require. A history of the changes and additions they have undergone, if there were materials for such an account, would contribute much to show the progress of the race in civilization and good government. The people have a high regard for the Code, " and all they seem to desire is its just and impartial exe cution, independent of caprice, and uninfluenced by corruption. That the laws of China are, on the contrary, very frequently violated by those who are their administrators and constitutional guardians, there can, unfortunately, be no question ; but to what extent, comparatively with the laws of other countries, must at present be very much a matter of conjecture : at tbe same time it may be observed, as something in favor of the Chinese system, that there are substantial grounds for believing, that neither fla grant nor repeated acts of injustice do, in point of fact, often, in any rank or station, ultimately escape with impunity." * Sir George Staunton is well qualified to decide on this point, and his opinion has been corroborated by most of those who have had similar opportunities of judging ; while his translation of the Code has given all persons interested in the question the means of ascertaining the principles on which the government ostensi- bl)* acts. This body of laws is called by the Chinese Ta Tsing Liuh Li, i. e. Statutes and Rescripts of the Great Pure Dynasty, and contains all the laws of the empire. They are arranged under seven leading heads, viz. General,. Civil, Fiscal, Ritual, Military and Criminal laws, and those relating to Public Works ; and subdivided into four hundred and thirty-six sections, called liuh, or statutes, to which the li, or modern clauses, to limit, explain, or alter them, are added ; these are now much more numerous than the original statutes. A new edition is published by authority every five years ; and the emperor ordered the Supreme Court, in 1830, to make very few alterations in the edition then about to • Penal Code, Introduction, page xxviii PREFACE AND DIVISIONS OF THE CODE. 301 appear, lest wily litigators took advantage of the discrepancies between the new or old law, to suit their own purposes. The edition of 1830 is in twenty-eight volumes, and is accessible to every one. The clauses are attached to each statute, and have the same force ; but there are no authorized reports of cases and decisions, either of the provincial or supreme courts, pubiished for general use, though a record of them is kept in the court where they are decided ; and the publication of such adjudged cases, as a guide to officers, is not unknown. An extensive collection of notes, comments, and cases, illustrating the practice and theory of the laws, was appended to the edition of 1799. A short extract from the original preface of the Code, pub lished in 1647, will explain the principles on which it was drawn up. After remarking upon the inconveniences arising from the necessity of aggravating, or mitigating, the sentences of the magistrates, who, previous to the re-establishment of a fixed code of penal laws, were not in possession of any secure foundation, upon which they could build a just decision, the emperor Shunchi goes on to describe the manner of revising the code : " A numerous body of magistrates was assembled at the capital, at our command, for the purpose of revising the penal code for merly in force under the late dynasty of Ming, and of digesting the same into a new code, by the exclusion of such parts as were exceptionable, and the introduction of others, which were likely to contribute to the attainment of justice, and the general perfec tion of the work. The result of their labors having been sub mitted to our examination, we maturely weighed and considered the various matters it contained, and then instructed a select number of our great officers of state carefully to revise the whole, for the purpose of making such alterations and emenda tions as might still be found requisite. Wherefore, it being now published, let it be your great care, officers and magistrates of the interior and exterior departments of our empire, diligently to observe the same, and to forbear in future to give any decision, or to pass any sentence, according to your private sentiments, or upon your unsupported authority. Thus shall the magistrates and people look up with awe and submission to the justice of these institutions, as they find themselves respectively concerned in them ; the transgressor will not fail to suffer a strict expiation of his crimes, and will be the instrument of deterring others from 302 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. similar misconduct ; and finally, both officers and people will be equally secured for endless generations, in the enjoyment of the happy effects of the great and noble virtues of our illustrious progenitors." Under the head of General Laws are forty-seven sections, comprising principles and definitions applicable to the whole, and containing some singular notions on equity and criminality. The description of the five ordinary punishments, definition of the ten treasonable offences, regulations for the eight privileged classes, and general directions regarding the conduct of officers of go vernment, are the matters treated of under this head. The title of section xliv. is, " On the decision of cases not provided for by law ;" and the rule is, that " such cases may then be deter mined by an accurate comparison with others which are already provided for, and which approach most nearly to those under in vestigation, in order to ascertain afterwards to what extent an aggravation, or mitigation, of the punishment would be equitable. A provisional sentence conformable thereto shall be laid before the superior magistrates, and, after receiving their approbation, be submitted to the emperor's final decision. Any erroneous judgment which may be pronounced, in consequence of adopting a more summary mode of proceeding, in cases of a doubtful nature, shall be punished as wilful deviation from justice." This, of course, gives great latitude to the magistrate, and as he is thus allowed to decide and act before the new law can be. confirmed or annulled, the chief restraints to his injustice in such cases (which, however, are not numerous), lie in the fear of an appeal, and the consequences to himself, or of summary reprisals from the suffering parties. The six remaining divisions pertain to the six great adminis trative Boards of the government, in the order above stated. The second contains Civil Laws, under twenty-eight sections, divided into two books, one of them referring to the system of government, and the other to the conduct of magistrates, &c. The hereditary succession of rank and titles is regulated, and punishments laid down for those who illegally assume these honors. Most of the nobility of China are Manchus, and none of the hereditary dignities existing previous to the conquest were recognised, except those attached to the family of Confucius. Improperly recommending unfit persons as deserving high honors, GENERAL, CIVIL, AND FISCAL LAWS. 303 appointing and removing officers without the emperor's sanction, and leaving stations without leave, are the principal subjects regulated in the first book. The second book contains rules re garding the interference of superior magistrates with the pro ceedings of the lower courts, and prohibitions against cabals and treasonable combinations among officers, which are of course capital crimes ; all persons in the employ of the state are re quired to make themselves acquainted with the taws, and even private individuals, " who are found capable of explaining the nature, and comprehending the objects of the laws, shall receive pardon in all offences resulting purely from accident, or imputa ble to them only from the guilt of others, provided it be the first offence." The third division of Fiscal Laws, under eighty-two sections, contains rules for enrolling the people, and of succession and inheritance ; with laws for regulating marriages between various classes of society, for guarding granaries and treasuries, for pre venting and punishing smuggling, for restraining usury, and for overseeing shops. Section lxxvi. orders that persons and fami lies truly represent their profession in life, and restrains them from altering it ; " generation after generation they must not change or alter it." This rule is, however, constantly violated. Section xc. exempts the buildings of literary and religious insti tutions from taxation. The general aim of the laws relating to holding real estate is to secure the cultivation of all the land taken up, and the regular payment of the tax. The proprietor, in some cases, can be deprived of his lands because he does not till them, and though in fact owner in fee simple, he is re stricted in the disposition of them by will in many ways, and forfeits them if the taxes are not paid. The fourth division of Ritual Laws, under twenty-six sections, contains the regulations for state sacrifices and ceremonies, those appertaining to the worship of ancestors, and whatever belongs to heterodox and magical seels or teachers. The heavy penal ties threatened in some of these sections against all illegal com binations under the guise of a new form of worship, indicate the fear of the authorities lest the people will in some way meet together to resist them. Even processions in honor of the gods are forbidden, nor are the rites observed by the emperor to be imitated by any unauthorized person ; women are not allowed 304 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. to congregate in the temples, nor magicians to perform any strange incantations. Few of these laws are carried into effect, except those against illegal sects. The fifth division of Military Laws, in seventy-one sections, provides for the protection of the palace, and the government of the army, for the guarding of frontier passes, management of the imperial cattle, and forwarding of despatches by the couriers. Some of the ordinances under this head lay down rules for the protection of the emperor's person, and the disposition of his body-guard and troops in the palace, the capital, and over the empire. The sections relating to the government of the army include the rules for the police of cities ; and those designed to secure the protection of the frontier comprise all the enactments against foreign intercourse. The supply of cattle for the army is a matter of some importance, and is accordingly regulated ; one law orders all persons who possess vicious and dangerous animals to restrain them, and if through neglect any person is killed or wounded, the owner of the animal shall be obliged to redeem himself from the punishment of manslaughter by paying a fine.* There is no general post-office establishment in China, but governmental couriers often take private letters ; the local mails are carried by expresses. The required rate of travel for the official post is a hundred miles a day, but it does not ordina rily go more than half that distance. Officers of government are allowed ninety days to go from Peking to Canton, a distance of 1200 miles, but couriers often travel it in twelve days. The sixth division on Criminal Laws is arranged into eleven books, containing in all 170 sections, and is the most important division of the whole Code. The clauses under some of the sections are numerous, and show that it is not for want of proper laws, or insufficient threatenings, that crimes go unpunished. The eleven books of tflis division relate to robbery, in which is included high treason and renunciation of allegiance ; to homi cide and murder ; quarrelling and fighting ; abusive language ; indictments, disobedience to parents, and false accusations ; bri bery and corruption ; forging and frauds ; incest and adultery ; arrests and escapes of criminals ; their fmprisonment and execu tion j and lastly, miscellaneous offences. * See Exodus xxi., 29, 30. RITUAL, MILITARY, AND CRIMINAL LAWS. 305 Under section cccxxix., it is ordered that any one who is guilty of addressing abusive language to his or her father or mother, or father's parents, or a wife who rails at her husband's parents or grandparents, shall be strangled ; provided always that the persons so abused themselves complain to the magistrates, and themselves had heard the language addressed to them. This law is the same in regard to children that it was among the He brews (Lev. xx., 9), and the power here given the parent does not seem to be productive of evil. Section ccclxxxi. has refer ence to " privately hushing up public crimes ;" but its penalties are for the most part a dead letter, and a full account of the various modes adopted in Chinese courts of withdrawing cases from the cognisance of superiors, would form a singular chapter in general jurisprudence. Consequently those who refuse every offer to hush up cases are highly lauded by the people. Another section (386th) ordains that whoever is guilty of improper con duct, contrary to the spirit of the laws, but not a breach of any ; specific article, shall be punished at least with forty blows, and < with eighty when of a serious nature. Some of the provisions of this part of the Code are praiseworthy, but no part of/Chinese legislation is so cruel and irregular as criminal jurisprudence. The permission accorded to the judge to torture the criminals opens the door for great cruelties. The seventh division contains thirteen sections relating to Public Works and Ways, such as the weaving of interdicted patterns, repairing dikes, and constructing edifices for govern ment. All public residences, granaries, treasuries and manu factories, embankments and dikes of rivers and canals, forts, walls, and mausolea, must be frequently examined, and kept in repair. Poverty or peculation render many of these laws void, and every subterfuge is practised by the superintending officer to pocket as much of the funds as he can. One officer, when ordered to repair a wall, made the workmen go over it and chip off the faces of the stones still remaining, and plaster up the holes. Besides these taws and their numerous clauses, every high provincial officer issues edicts upon such public matters as re quire regulation, some of them even affecting life and death, either reviving some old law, or giving il an application to the case before him, with such modifications as seem to be necessary. 306 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. He must report these acts to the supreme Board at Peking. No such order, which for the time has the force of law, is formally repealed, but gradually falls into oblivion, until circumstances again require its reiteration. This mode of publishing statutes gives rise to a sort of common and unwritten law in villages, to which a council of elders sometimes compels individuals to sub mit ; long usage is also another ground for enforcing them. Still, with all the tortures and punishments allowed by the law, and all the cruelties superadded upon the criminals by irri tated officers, or rapacious underlings and jailors, a broad survey of Chinese legislation, judged of by its results and the general appearance of society, gives the impression of an administration far superior to other Asiatic countries. Regarding the Code, a favorable comparison has been made in a review of Staunton's translation in the Edinburgh Review : " When we turn from the ravings of the Zendavesta or the Puranas to the tone of sense and business in this Chinese collection, it is like passing from darkness to light ; from the drivellings of dotage to the exercise of an improved understanding ; and redundant and minute as these laws are in many particulars, we scarcely know an Euro pean code that is at once so copious and so consistent, or is nearly so freed from intricacy, bigotry, and fiction." This encomium is to a certain extent just, but the practice of legislation in China has probably not been materially improved by the mere possession of a reasonable code of taws, though some melioration in jurisprudence has been effected.* The infliction of barbarous punishments, such as blinding, cutting off noses, ears, or other parts of the body, still not uncommon in Per- sia and Turkey, is not allowed or practised in China ; and the government, in minor crimes, contents itself with but little more than opprobrious exposure in the pillory, or castigation, which carry with them no degradation. The defects in this remarkable body of laws arise from several sources. The degree of liberty that can safely be awarded to the subject is not defined in it, and his rights are unknown in law. The government is despotic, but having no military power of any efficiency in their hands, the lawgivers resort to a minuteness of legislation upon the practice of social and relative virtues and * Chinese Repository, Vol. IV., pages 24-29. DEFECTS IN THE CHINESE CODE. 307 duties, which interferes with their observance ; though it must be remembered that there is no pulpit or Sabbath School in China to expound and enforce them from a higher code, and the laws must be the chief guide in most cases. The code also exhibits a minute attention to trifles, and an effort to legislate for every possible contingency, which must perplex the judge when dealing with the infinite shades of difference occurring in human actions. There are now many vague and obsolete statutes, ready lo serve as a handle to prosecute offenders for the gratification of private pique ; and although usage aud precedent both combine to prove their disuse, malice and bribery can easily effect their reviviscence and application to the case. Sheer cruelty, except in cases of treason against the emperor, cannot be charged against this Code as a whole ; though many of the laws seem designed to operate chiefly in terrorem, and the penalty is placed higher than the punishment really intended to be inflicted, that the emperor may have scope for mercy, or as he says, "for leniency beyond the bounds of the law." The princi ple on which this is done is evident, and the commonness of the practice proves that such an exercise of mercy has its effect. The laws of China are not altogether unmeaning words, though the degree of efficiency in their execution is subject to endless variations; some officers are lenient, others severe; the people in some provinces are industrious and peaceable, in others, tur bulent and averse to quiet occupations, so that one is likely to form a juster idea of their administration, by looking at the results as seen in the general aspect of society, and judging of the Iree by its fruits, than by drawing inferences applicable to the whole machine of state from particular instances of oppression and insubordination, as is so frequently the case with travellers and writers. The general examination of the Chinese government here pro- > posed may be conveniently considered under the heads of the emperor and his court, classes of society, the different branches of the supreme administration, the provincial authorities, and the execution of the laws. The Emperor of China is at the head of the whole ; and if the possession of great power, and being the object of almost un bounded reverence, can impart happiness, he may safely be con sidered as the happiest mortal living ; though to his power there 308 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. are many checks, and the reverence paid him is proportioned somewhat to the fidelity with which he administers the decrees of heaven. " The emperor is the sole head of the Chinese con stitution and government ; he is regarded as the vicegerent of heaven, especially chosen to govern all nations ; and is supreme in everything, holding at once the highest legislative and execu tive powers, without limit or control." Both he and the pope claim to be the vicegerent of heaven and interpreter of its decrees to the whole world, and these two rulers have emulated each other in the arrogant titles they have assumed. The most common appellation employed to denote the emperor, in state papers and among the people, is hwangti, or august sovereign ; it is defined as " the appellation of one possessing complete virtues, and able to act on heavenly principles."* This title is further defined as meaning heaven : " heaven speaks not, yet the four seasons fol low in regular succession, and all things spring forth. So the three august ones (Fuhhi, Shinnung, and Hwangti) descended in state, and without even uttering a word, the people bowed to their sway ; their virtue was inscrutable and boundless like august heaven, and therefore were they called august ones." Among the numerous titles given him, may be mentioned hwang sluing, the august lofty one ; ticn hwang, celestial august one ; shing hwang, the wise and august, i. e. infinite in know ledge and complete in virtue ; lien ti, celestial sovereign ; and shing ti, sacred sovereign, — because he is able to act on heavenly principles. He is also called Hen tsz', son of heaven, because heaven is his father and earth is his mother ; and shing Hen tsz', wise son of hea.ven, as being born of heaven and having infinite knowledge ; — terms which are given him as the ruler of the world by the gift of heaven. He is even addressed and some times refers to himself, under designations which pertain exclu sively to heaven. Wan sui ye, " sire of ten thousand years," is a term used when speaking of him or approaching him, like the words O king live for ever! addressed to the ancient kings of Persia. Pi Ma., " beneath the footstool," is a sycophantic com- pcllation used by his courtiers, as if they were only worthy of being at the edge of his footstool. The emperor usually designates himself by the terms chin, * Chinese Repository, Vol. IV., p. 12 ; Chinese Chrestomathy, p. 558. NAMES AJVD TITLES OF THE EMPEROR. 309 ourself; kwa jin, the solitary man, or the one man ; and kwa khm, the solitary prince. He has been called by many ridicu lous titles by foreign writers, as Brother of the Sun and Moon, Grandson of the Stars, King of Kings, &c, but no such epithets are known among the Chinese. His palace has various appella tions, such as hall of audience, golden palace, the ninth entrance, vermilion avenue, vermilion hall, rosy hall, forbidden pavilion, the crimson and forbidden palace, gemmeous steps, golden steps, meridian portal, gemmeous avenue, celestial steps, celestial court, great interior, the maple pavilion, royal house, etc. To see him is to see the dragon's face ; the throne is called the " dragon's throne," and also the '•' divine utensil," i. e. the thing given him bv heaven to sit in when executing his divine mission ; his coat of arms is a five-clawed dragon, and his person is styled the dragon's body. Thus the Old Dragon, it might be almost said, has coiled himself around the emperor of China, one of the greatest upholders of his power in this world, and contrived to get himself worshipped through him by one-third of mankind. The emperor is the fountain of all power, rank, honor, and privilege to all within his dominions, which are ignorantly sup posed to comprise all the best parts of the globe ; and as there can be but one sun in the heavens, so there can be but one hwangti on earth, the source and dispenser of benefits to the whole world. The same absolute executive power held by him is placed in the hands of his deputies and governor-generals, to be by them exercised within the limits of their jurisdiction. He is the head of religion, and the onlv one qualified to adore heaven ; he is the source of law, and dispenser of mercy ; no right can be \ held in opposition to his pleasure, no claim maintained against him, and no privilege protect from his wrath. All the forces and revenues of the empire are his, and he has a claim to the ¦ services of all males between sixteen and sixty, though he now seldom tries to advance it. In short, the whole empire is his pro perty, and the only checks upon his despotism are public opinion, the want of an efficient standing army, poverty, and the venality of the agents of his power. The present emperor is the sixth of the Tsing or Pure dynasty, who has reigned in China. He is the second son of his fathei Kiaking, was bom in October, 1781. and ascended the throne in September, 1821 ; the present year is the 67th of his age 310 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. and tho 27th of his reign. The portraits circulated of him, represent him as a mild, inefficient man, with a countenance indi cating care and thoughtfulness, but presenting no traces of in temperance. His physiognomy is not peculiarly Mongolian, the thin features, large nose, and small lower face, likening him a little to the Circassian. His private character is not so bad as his father's, without any very salient qualities — a man fitted for peaceful times, but hardly equal to a desperate emergency. The term Tsing, or Pure, was taken by the Manchus as a distinctive term for their new dynasty, alluding to the purity of justice they intended to maintain in their sway. Some of the founders of the ancient dynasties derived their names from their patrimonial estates, as the Chau, the Tsin, &c. ; others, as the Ming, or Illus trious, the Yuen, or Original, intimated the vanity of the family. On his accession to the throne, the emperor ordered that the period of his reign should be called Taukwang, or Glory of Reason ; and the words may without impropriety be considered, and are so regarded by the people, as his personal name while on the throne. The surname of the reigning family is Gioro, or Golden, derived from their ancestral chief Aisin Gioro, whom they feign to have been the son of a divine virgin. They are doubtless descended from the Kin, or Golden, a people who sub jugated much of northern China in the 11th and 12th centuries, and were driven into Liautung by the Mongols. The given name of the emperor has two syllables, but only one, Mien, is generally known, because it is the name of all in the generation to which his majesty belongs ; his brothers' names are Mienkai, and Mienyii. He has three sons, two of whom, Yihchu and Yihtsung, are now 15 years old ; three sons have died. The emperor Kanghi instituted a mode of naming the different branches of his family, that every one might see at a glance the generation to which each person belongs. He made out a list of names, eight of which have been used for as many genera tions ; these are Hiuen, Yun, Hung, Yung, Mien, Yih, Tsai, and Fung, and the given name of every member of the same generation contains the same word. Those most nearly allied in blood, as sons, nephews, &c, are still further distinguished by having the second syllables of their names written in compound Chinese characters, whose radicals are alike ; thus Kiaking and his brothers wrote their names with Yung, and under the radical CORONATION PROCLAMATION OF TAUKWANG. 311 gem ; Taukwang and his brothers and cousins, with Mien, and under the radical heart. This peculiarity is easily represented in the Chinese characters, but a comparison can be made in English with the supposed names of a family of sons, as Louis Edward, Louis Edwin, Louis Edwy, Louis Edgar, &c, the word Louis answering to Mien, and the syllable Ed to the radical heart. The^ title Taukwang is called in Chinese kwoh hau, or na tional designation, and was first established by the Han dynasty, about b. c. 200. Native historians have preferred to use the miau hau, or ancestral name, as the most appropriate, and be cause the kwoh hau, being sometimes changed by monarchs dur ing their reigns, was liable to some confusion. The reason for thus investing the sovereign with a title different from his real name is not fully apparent ; it arose probably out of the vanity of the monarch, who wished to glorify himself by a high sounding title, and the custom was subsequently continued as part of the system of surrounding him with whatever could enhance the awful respect attached to his position. When his present majesty " received from heaven and revolv ing nature, the government of the world," he issued the follow ing inaugural proclamation, an extract from which will exhibit something of the practice of the Chinese court on such oecasio/is. " Our Ta Tsing dynasty has received the most substantial indication of heaven's kind care. Our ancestors, Taitsu and Taitsung, began to lay the vast foundation [of our empire] ; and Shitsu became the sole monarch of China. Our sacred ancestor Kanghi, the emperor Yungching the glory of his age, and Kienlung the eminent in honor, all abounded in virtue, were divine in martial prowess, consolidated the glory of the empire, and moulded the whole to peaceful harmony. " His late majesty, who has now gone the great journey, go verned all under heaven's canopy twenty-five years, exercising the utmost caution and industry. Nor evening nor morning was he ever idle. He assiduously aimed at the best possible rule, and hence his government was excellent ancl illustrious ; the court and the country felt the deepest reverence, and the stillness of profound awe. A benevolent heart and a benevolent adminis tration were universally diffused ; in China Proper, as well as 312 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. beyond it, order and tranquillity prevailed, and the tens of thou sands of common people were all happy. But in the midst of a hope that this glorious reign would be long protracted, and the help of heaven would be received many days, unexpectedly, on descending to bless, by his majesty's presence, Lwanyang, the dragon charioteer (the holy emperor) became a guest on high. " My sacred and indulgent father had, in the year that he began to rule alone, silently settled that the divine utensil (the throne) should devolve on my contemptible person. I, knowing the feebleness of my virtue, at first felt much afraid I should not be competent to the office ; but on reflecting that the sages, my ancestors, have left to posterity their plans ; that his late majesty has laid the duty on me — and heaven's throne should not be long vacant — I have done violence to my feelings, and forced myself to intermit awhile my heartfelt grief, that I may with reverence obey the unalterable decree ; and on the 27th of the 8th moon (October 3d), I purpose devoutly to announce the event to heaven, to earth, to my ancestors, and to the gods of the land and of the grain, and shall then sit down on the imperial throne. Let the next year be the first of Taukwang. " I look upwards and hope to be able to continue former ex cellences. I lay my hand on my heart with feelings of respect and cautious awe. — When a new monarch addresses himself to th% empire, he ought to confer benefits on his kindred, and ex tensively bestow gracious favors : whatever is proper to be done on this occasion is stated below." Here follow twenty-two paragraphs, detailing the gifts to be conferred, and promotions made of noblemen and officers, order ing the restoration of suspended dignitaries to their full pay and honors ; and sacrifices to Confucius and the emperors of former dynasties ; pardons to be extended to criminals, and banished convicts recalled ; governmental debts and arrearages to be for given, and donations to be bestowed upon the aged. " Lo ! now, on succeeding to the throne, I shall exercise myself to give repose to the millions of my people. Assist me to sus tain the burden laid on my shoulders ! With veneration I re ceive charge of heaven's great concerns. — Ye kings and states men, great and small, civil and military, every one be faithful CEREMONIES OF THE CORONATION. 313 and devoted, and aid in supporting the vast affair ; that our family dominion may be preserved hundreds and tens of thou- sands of years, in never ending tranquillity and glory ! Promul gate this to all under heaven — cause every one to hear it ! " The programme of ceremonies to be observed when the em- peror " ascends the summit," and seats himself on the dragon's throne, was published by the Board of Rites a few days after. It details a long series of prostrations and bowings, leading out and marshalling the various officers of the court, and members of the imperial family. After they are all arranged in proper precedence before the throne, " at the appointed hour, the presi dent of the Board of Rites shall go and entreat his majesty to put on his mourning, and come forth by the gate of the eastern palace, and enter at the left door of the middle palace, where his majesty, before the altar of his deceased imperial father, will respectfully announce that he receives the decree — kneel thrice, and bow nine times." He then retires, and soon after a large deputation of palace officers "go and solicit his majesty to put on his imperial robes, and proceed to the palace of his mother, the empress dowager, to pay his respects. The empress dowager will put on her court robes, and ascend her throne, before which his majesty shall kneel thrice and bow nine times." After this filial ceremony is over, the golden chariot is made ready, the officer of the Astro nomical Board, whose business is to observe times, is stationed at the palace gate, and when he announces the arrival of the chosen and felicitous moment, his majesty comes forth and mounts the golden chariot, and the procession proceeds to the Palace of Protection and Peace. Here the great officers of the empire are marshalled according to their rank, and when the emperor sits down in the palace, they all kneel and bow nine times. " This ceremony over, the president of the Board of Rites step ping forward shall kneel down and beseech his majesty, saying, ' Ascend the imperial throne.' The emperor shall then rise from his seat, and the procession moving on in the same order to the Palace of Peace, his majesty shall ascend the seat of gems, and sit down on the imperial throne, with his face to the south." All present come forward, and again make the nine prostrations, after which the proclamation of coronation, as it would be called 15 314 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. in Europe, is formally sealed, and then announced to the empire with similar ceremonies. There are many other lesser rites observed on these occasions, some of them appropriate to such an occasion, and others, according to our notions, bordering on the ludicrous ; the whole presenting a strange mixture of religion, splendor, and farce, though as a whole calculated to impress all with a sentiment of awe towards one, who gives to heaven, and receives from man, such homage and worship.* Nothing is omitted which can add to the dignity and sacredness of the emperor's person or character. Almost everything used by him, or in his service, is tabued from the common people, an/f distinguished by some peculiar mark or color, so as to keep up the impression of awe with which he is regarded, and which is so powerful an auxiliary to his throne. The outer gate of the palace must always be passed on foot, and the paved entrance walk, leading up to it, can only be used by him. The vacant throne, or even a screen of yellow silk thrown over a chair, is worshipped equally with his actual presence, and a dispatch is received in the provinces with incense and prostrations ; the vessels on the canal, bearing articles for his special use, always have the right of way. His birthday is celebrated over the whole empire by official persons, and the account of the opening ceremony, as witnessed by Macartney's embassy, shows how skilfully every act tends to maintain his assumed character as the son of heaven. " The first day was consecrated to the purpose of rendering a solemn, sacred, and devout homage to the supreme majesty of the emperor. The ceremony was no longer performed in a tent, nor did it partake of the nature of a banquet. The princes, tri butaries, ambassadors, and great officers of state, were assembled in a vast hall ; and upon particular notice were introduced into an inner building, bearing at least the semblance of a temple. It was chiefly furnished with great instruments of music, among which were sets of cylindrical bells, suspended in a line from ornamental frames of wood, and gradually diminishing in size from one extremity to the other, and also triangular pieces of metal, arranged in the same order as the bells. To the sound of these instruments, a slow and solemn hymn was sung by eunuchs, * Chinese Repository, Vol. X., pages S7 — 9S. Indo-Chinese Gleaner, February, 182J. RESPECT AND AWE PAID THE EMPEROR. 315 who had such a command over their voices, as to resemble the effect of musical glasses at a distance. The performers were directed, in the gliding from one tone to another, by the striking of a shrill and sonorous cymbal ; and the judges of music among the gentlemen of the embassy, were much pleased with their execution. The whole had, indeed, a grand effect. During the performance, and at particular signals, nine times repeated, all present prostrated themselves nine times, except the ambassador and his suite, who made a profound obeisance. But he whom it was meant to honor, continued, as if in imitation of the Deity, invisible the whole time. The awful impression intended to be made upon the minds of men, by this apparent worship of a fel low-mortal, was not to be effaced by any immediate scenes of sport or gaiety, which were postponed to the following day." * The mass of the people arc not admitted to participate in these ceremonies ; they are kept at a distance, and care, in fact, very little about them. In every provincial capital, there is a hall, called Wan-shau kung, dedicated solely to the honor of the empe ror, and where, three days before and after his birthday, all the civil and military officers, and the most distinguished citizens, assemble to do him the same homage as if he were present. The walls and furniture of this hall are yellow. The right of succession is by custom hereditary in the male line, but it is always in the power of the sovereign to nominate his successor, either from among his own children, or any of his subjects. The heir-apparent is not always known during the lifetime of the incumbent, though there is a titular office of guar dian of the heir-apparent. In the reign of Kienlung, one of the censors memorialized him upon the desirableness of announcing his successor, in order to quiet men's minds, and repress intrigue, but the suggestion cost the man his place. The emperor said that the name of his successor, in case of his own sudden death, would be found in a designated place, and that it was highly inexpedient to mention him, lest intriguing men buzzed about him, forming factions, and trying to elevate themselves. The soundness of this policy cannot be doubted, and it is not unlikely Kienlung, or some of his predecessors, knew the evils of an opposite course, from an acquaintance with the history of some of the princes of Central Asia or India. One good result of not indicating the * Staunton's Embassy, Vol. III., page 63. 316 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. heir-apparent to the throne is, that not only are no intrigues formed by the crown-prince, but when he begins to reign, he is seldom compelled, from fear of his own safety, to kill or imprison his brothers or uncles, as was the case in India and Turkey ; for as they possess no power or party to render them formidable, their personal ambition soon finds full scope for its exercise in the wilds of Manchuria. The management of the clan of imperial relatives appertains entirely to the emperor, and has been conducted with considera ble sagacity. All its members are under the control of the Tsung- jinfu, a sort of clansmen's court, consisting of a presiding con troller, two assistant directors, and two deputies of the family. Their duties are to regulate whatever appertains to the govern ment of the emperor's kindred, which is divided into two branches, the direct and collateral, or the tsung-shih and Gioro. The tsung-shih, or " imperial house," comprises only the lineal descendants of Tienming's father, who first assumed the title of emperor. The collateral branches, including the children of his uncles and brothers, are collectively called Gioro abroad. Their united number is unknown, but a minute genealogical record of the whole is kept in the national archives at Peking and Moukden. The tsung-shih are distinguished by a yellow girdle, and the Gioro by a red one ; when degraded, the former take a red, the latter a carnation girdle. A wang, or regulus of the first rank, receives an annual salary of about $13,300, some rations, and a retinue of three hundred and sixty servants, the whole forming an annual tax upon the state of between $75,000 and $90,000. A prince of the second rank receives half that sum ; of the third rank, one third, and so on, down to the simple princes of the blood, who each receive four dollars a month, and rations. Some of them are consequently reduced to very strait ened circumstances, and most of the imperial connexions exhibit the evils ensuent upon the system of education and surveillance adopted towards them, in their low, vicious pursuits, and cring ing imbecility of character. The sum of $133 is allowed when they marry, and $150 to defray funeral expenses, which induces some of them to maltreat their wives to death, in order to receive the allowance and dowry as often as possible. The titular nobility of the empire, as a whole, is a body whose members are without power, land, wealth, office, or influence. ARRANGEMENT OF THE COURT AND NOBILITY., 317 Some of the titles are more or less hereditary, but the whole system has been so devised, and the titles so conferred, as to tickle the vanity of those who receive them, without granting them any real power in virtue of the honor. The titles are not derived from landed estates, but the rank is simply designated in addition to the name. There are twelve orders of nobility con ferred solely on the members of the imperial house and clan, all of which are to some extent hereditary. 1. Tsin wang, ' kindred prince,' or prince of the blood, conferred usually on his majesty's brothers or sons. 2. Kiun wang, or ' prince of a prince dom ;' the eldest sons of the princes of these two degrees take a definite rank during their father's lifetime, but the collateral branches descend in precedence as the generations are more and more remote from the direct imperial line, until the person is known simply as member of the imperial clan. 3. Beile, and 4. Beitse, two orders of princes in collateral branches of the family. 5. Guardian Duke, and 6. Sustaining Duke ; the 7. and 8. are subordinates to them. The 9th to the 12th ranks are respectively called Guardian, Sustaining, and Serving Gene rals, and Brevet General. The number of- persons in the lower ranks is very great. Few of these men hold offices of any im portance at the capital, and still more rarely are they placed in responsible situations in the provinces, but the government of Manchuria is chiefly in their hands. There are several classes of the imperial princesses, whose tutelage and disposal is under the control of the empress and the court. Besides these, are the five ancient orders of nobility, kung, hau, peh, tsz', and nan, usually rendered duke, count, viscount, baron, and baronet, which are conferred without distinction on Manchus, Mongols, and Chinese, both civil and military, for such reasons as are deemed sufficient. The three first take pre cedence of the highest untitled civilians, but an appointment to \ most of the high offices in the country carries with it an honorary | title. The direct descendant of Confucius is called yen-shing '.'. kung, " the ever-sacred duke;" and of Koxinga, hai-ching kung, or " sea-quelling duke ;" these are the only hereditary titles among the Chinese. Besides the above-mentioned, there are others, which are deemed even more honorable, either from their rarity or peculiar privileges, and answer to membership of the various orders of the Garter, Thistle, Bath, &c, in Europe. 318 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. The internal arrangements of the court are modelled somewhat after those of the Boards, the general supervision being under the direction of a superior board, called the Nuiwu fu_ composed of a president and six assessors, under whom are seven subordinate departments. It is the duty of these officers to attend upon the emperor and empress at sacrifices, and conduct the ladies of the hareem to and from tho palace ; they oversee the households of the sons of the emperor, and direct, under his majesty, every thing belonging to the palace, and-whatever appertains to its supplies and the care of the imperial guard. The seven depart ments are methodically arranged, the whole bearing no little resemblance to a miniature state : one is for supplies of food and raiment ; a second is for defence, to regulate the body-guard when the emperor travels ; the third attends to the etiquette the members of this great family must observe towards each other, and brings forward the inmates of the hareem when the emperor, seated in the inner hall of audience, receives their homage, led by the empress herself; a fourth department selects ladies to fill the hareem, and collects the revenue from crown lands; a fifth superintends all repairs necessary in the palace, and sees thatthe streets of the city be cleared whenever the emperor, empress, or any of the women or children in the palace wish to go out; a sixth department has in charge the herds and flocks of the em peror; and the last is a court for punishing the crimes of soldiers, eunuchs, and others attached to the palace. About 5000 eunuchs are connected with the palace, but from what stations in society they are taken is not specified. In 1829, a supplementary clause was added to the taw, ordering that the sons of a murderer who had killed all the heirs of a family should be given to the keeper of the hareem to be emasculated ; but such a law would not do much towards supplying 'this part of the household. The number of females attached to the hareem is not accurately known ; all of them are under the nominal direction of the empress. Every third year, his majesty reviews the daughters of the Manchu officers over twelve years of age, and chooses such as he pleases for concubines ; there are only seven legal concubines, but an unlimited number of illegal. The latter are restored to liberty when they reach the age of 25, unless they have borne children to his majesty. It is generally considered an advantage to a family to have a daughter in the POSITION OF THE EMPRESS DOWAGER. 319 hareem, especially by the Manchus, who endeavor to rise by this backstairs influence.* In the 43th volume of the Hwui Tien, from which work most of the details in this chapter are obtained, there is an account of the supplies furnished his majesty and court. There should daily be placed before the emperor, 30 lbs. of meat in a basin, and 7 lbs. boiled into soup ; hog's fat and butter, of each 1-J- lbs., two sheep, two fowls, and two ducks, the milk of eighty cows, and 75 parcels of tea. Her majesty receives 21 lbs. of meat in platters, and 13 Us. boiled with vegetables, one fowl, one duck, twelve pitchers of water, the milk of 25 cows, and ten parcels of tea. Her maids and the concubines receive their rations according to a regular fare, which is minutely specified. The empress-dowager is the most important person within the palace, and his majesty does homage to her at frequent intervals, by making the highest ceremony of nine prostrations before her. The empress-dowager reached the age of sixty in 1836, on which happy occasion many honors were conferred by the em peror. An extract from the ordinance issued on this festival, will exhibit the regard paid her by his majesty. " Our extensive dominions have enjoyed the utmost prosperity, under the shelter of a glorious and enduring state of felicitv. Our exalted race has become most illustrious, under the protec tion of that honored relative to whom the whole court looks up. To her happiness, already unalloyed, the highest degree of felicity has been superadded, causing joy and gladness to every inmate of the six palaces. The grand ceremonies of the occa sion shall exceed in splendor the utmost requirements of the ancients in regard to the human relations, calling forth the gra- tulation of the whole empire. It is indispensable that the ob servances of the occasion should be of an exceedingly unusual nature, in order that our reverence for our august parent and care of her, may both be equally and gloriously displayed. . . . ... In the first month of the present winter occurs the sixtieth anniversary of her majesty's sacred natal day. At the opening of the happy period, the sun and moon shed their united genial influences on it. When commencing anew the revolution of the sexagenary cvele, the honor thereof adds increase to her felicity. * Chinese Repository, Vol. XIV., page 521. 320 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. Looking upwards and beholding her glory, we repeat our grata- lations, and announce the event to heaven, to earth, to our ances tors, and to the patron gods of the empire. On the nineteenth day of the tenth moon in the fifteenth year of Taukwang, we will conduct the princes, the nobles, and all the high officers, both civil and military, into the presence of the great empress, benign and dignified, universally placid, thoroughly virtuous, tranquil and self-collected, in favors unbounded ; and we will then present our congratulations on the glad occasion, the anni versary of her natal day. The occasion yields a happiness equal to what is enjoyed by goddesses in heaven ; and while an nouncing it to the gods and to our people, we will tender to her blessings unbounded." Besides the usual tokens of favor, such as rations to soldiers, pardon to offenders, promotion to the deserving, advance in offi cial rank, &c, it w-as ordered in the 11th article, " That every perfectly filial son or obedient grandson, every upright husband or chaste wife, upon proofs being brought forward, shall have a monument erected with an inscription in his or her honor." Soldiers who had reached the age of 90 or 100, rece'ived money to erect an honorary portal ; and tombs, temples, bridges, and roads were ordered to be repaired ; but how many of these " exceedingly great and special favors " were actually carried into effect cannot be stated.* Princesses are given in marriage to the chieftains of the Mongols, and leading statesmen among the Manchus, for all in termarriages between these races and the Chinese are illegal. The imperial body-guard is composed of picked Manchu troops, about 700 to 800 in number, selected from a body of imperial slaves or troops, who are under the control of high officers. Some of the guard are always about the imperial person, while other portions of the force are placed on the frontier. Under the emperor is the whole body of the people, a great family bound implicitly to obey his will as being that of heaven, and possessing no right or property per se ; in fact, having nothing but what has been derived from, or may at any time be reclaimed by, him. The greatness of this family, and the absence of an entailed aristocracy to hold its members or their lands in serfdom, * Chinese Repository, Vol. IV., page 576. DIVISIONS OF THE CHINESE PEOPLE. 321 are partial safeguards against excess of oppression. Liberty is unknown among the people ; there is not even a word for it in the language. No acknowledgment on the part of the sovereign of certain well understood rights belonging to the people has ever been required, and is not likely to be demanded or given by either party, until the Gospel shall teach them their respective rights. Emigration abroad, and even removal from one part of the empire to another, are prohibited or restrained, though neither of these regulations offers much obstacle to changing one's place of residence or occupation. Notwithstanding Chinese society is so homogeneous when considered as distinct from the sovereign, inequalities of many kinds are constantly met with, some grow ing out of birth or property, others out of occupation or merit, but most of them derived from official rank. There is no caste as in India, although the ancient distinction of the people into scholars, agriculturists, craftsmen, and tradesmen, has been sup posed to be analogous ; one of the former emperors did, how ever, endeavor unsuccessfully to introduce caste. This four fold arrangement was perhaps made from a notion of the rela tive usefulness of these classes, but there are local prejudices against associating with some portions of the community,- though the people thus shut out are not remnants of old castes. The tankia, or boat-people, at Canton form a class in some respects be neath the other portions of the community, and have many customs peculiar to themselves. At Ningpo, there is a still more degrad ed class called lo min, amounting to nearly 3000 persons, with whom the people will not associate. The men are not allowed to enter the examinations, or follow an honorable calling, but are play-actors, musicians, or sedan-bearers ; the women are match makers or female barbers, and are obliged to wear a peculiar dress, and usually go abroad carrying a bundle wrapped in a checkered handkerchief. The tankia at Canton also wear a simi lar handkerchief on their head, and do not cramp their feet. The to min are supposed to be descendants of the Kin, who held north ern China in a.d. 1100, or of native traitors, who aided the Japanese, in 1555-1563, in their descent upon Chehkiang. The tankia came from some of the Miautsz' tribes, so early that their origin is unknown.* * Missionary Chronicle, Vol. XIV., page 324. 15* 322 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. • The modern classifications of the people, recognised, however, more by law than custom, are various and comprehensive. First natives and aliens ; the latter include the unsubdued mountain eers and aboriginal tribes still living in various parts of the em pire, races of boat-people on the coasts, and all foreigners residing within its limits, each of whom are subject to particular laws. Second, conquerors and conquered ; having reference almost en tirely to a prohibition of intermarriages between Manchus and Chinese. Third, freemen and slaves ; every native is allowed to purchase slaves and retain their children in servitude, and free persons sometimes forfeit their freedom on account of their crimes, or sell themselves into bondage. Fourth, the honorable and the mean, who cannot intermarry without the former forfeiting their privileges ; the latter comprise, besides aliens and slaves, crimi nals, executioners, police-runners, actors, jugglers, beggars, and all other vagrant or vile persons, who are in general required to pursue for three generations, some honorable and useful employ ment before they are eligible to enter the literary examinations. These four divisions extend over the whole body of the people, but really affect only a small minority. There are also eight privileged classes, of which the privileges of imperial blood and connexions, and that of nobility, are the only ones really available ; this privilege affects merely the punish ment of offenders belonging to either of the eight classes. The privilege of imperial blood is extended to all the blood relations of the emperor, all those of the empress mother and grandmother within four degrees, of the empress within three, and of the con sort of the crown prince within two. Privileged noblemen com prise all officers of the first rank, all of the second holding office, and all of the third whose office confers a command. These ranks are entirely distinct from the titles of nobility, and are much thought of by officers as honorary distinctions. There arc nine, each distinguished by a different colored ball placed on the apex of the cap, by a peculiar emblazonry on the breast, and a different clasp to the girdle. Civilians of the first rank wear a precious ruby or transparent red stone ; a stork is embroidered on the back and breast of the robe, and the girdle clasp of prehnite set in rubies ; military men differ only in having a unicorn instead of a stork, their buttons and clasps being the same as civilians. EIGHT PRIVILEGED CLASSES AND NINE RANKS. 323 Civilians of the second rank wear a red coral button, a robe embroidered with a golden pheasant, and a girdle clasp of gold set in rubies ; the lion is emblazoned on the military. Civilians of the third rank carry a sapphire, and one-eyed pea cock's feather, a robe with a peacock worked on the breast, and a clasp of worked gold ; military officers have a leopard instead of a peacock. Civilians of the fourth rank are distinguished by a blue opaque stone, a crane on the breast, and a clasp of worked gold with a silver button ; military officers carry a tiger instead of a crane. Civilians of the fifth rank are denoted by a crystal button, a silver pheasant on the breast, and a clasp of plain gold with a silver button ; the bear is the escutcheon of military men. Civilians of the sixth rank wear an opaque white shell button, a blue plume, an egret worked on the breast, and a mother-of- pearl clasp; military men bear apien, or little tiger. Civilians of the seventh rank have a plain gold button, a par tridge on the breast, and a clasp of silver ; a rhinoceros desig nates the military, as it also does in the next rank. The eighth rank wear %. worked gold button, a quail on the breast, and a clasp of clear horn. The ninth rank are distinguished by a worked silver button, a sparrow on the breast, and a clasp of buffalo's horn ; military men are marked by a sea-horse embroidered on the robe. Different Styles of Official Caps. The mass of people, besides the legal distinctions here noticed, are further subdivided into different clans, guilds, societies, pro- 324 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. fessions, and communities, all of which in some degree assist them in maintaining their rights, and give a power to public opinion it would not otherwise possess. Legally, every subject is allowed access to the magistrates, secured protection from oppression, and can appeal to the higher courts, but these privi leges are of little avail if he is poor or unknown. He is too deeply imbued with fear, and too ignorant of his rights, to think of organized resistance ; his mental independence has been destroyed, his search after truth paralysed, his enterprise checked, and his whole efforts directed into two channels, viz. labor for bread, and study for office, by the operation of this servile fear. The people of a village, for instance, will not be quietly robbed of the fruits of their industry ; but every indi vidual submits to multiplied insults, oppressions, and cruelties, without thinking of combining with his fellows to resist. Pro perty is held by a tolerably secure tenure, but almost every other right and privilege are shamefully trampled on. Although there is nominally no deliberative or advisatory body in the Chinese government, and nothing really analogous to a congress, parliament, or tiers Stat, still necessity compels the emperor to consult and advise with some of his officers. There are two imperial councils, which may be regarded as the organs of communication between the imperial head and the body politic; these are the Nui Koh or Cabinet, and the Kiun-ki Chu or General Council ¦; the last being the most deliberative body of the two. Subordinate to these two councils are the administrative parts of the supreme government, consisting of the six Boards, the Colo nial Office, Censorate, Courts of Representation and Appeal, and the Imperial Academy ; making in all thirteen principal depart ments, each of which will require a short description. It need hardly be added that there is nothing like an elective body in any part of the system ; such a feature to a Chinese wbuld be almost as incongruous as the election of a father by his .family. The Nui Koh, or Cabinet, consists of four ta hioh-sz', or prin cipal, and two hiehpan ia hioh-sz', or joint assistant chancellors, half of them Manchus, and half Chinese. Their duties, accord ing to the Imperial Statutes, are to " deliberate on the govern ment of the empire, proclaim abroad the imperial pleasure, regulate the cations of state, together with the whole administra tion of the great balance of power, thus aiding the emperor in NUI KOH OR CABINET. 325 directing the affairs of state." Subordinate to these six chan cellors, are six grades of officers amounting in all to upwards of two hundred persons, of whom more than half are Manchus. Immediately under the six chancellors, are ten assistants, called hiohsz', " learned scholars ;" some of the sixteen are constantly absent in the provinces or colonies, when their places are sup plied by substitutes. What in other countries is performed by one person as prime minister, is in China performed by the four chancellors, of whom the first in the list is usually considered to be the premier, though perhaps the most influential man and the real leader of government holds another station. The present premier of- China is Muchangah, a Manchu of great influence and power, and probably an able man ; he has been president of several Boards and of the Academy, and has filled his present high station eleven years. It speaks something for the stability of this government, that Taukwang has had only three premiers in twenty-six years, Tohtsin, Changling, and Muchangah, all of them Manchus. The most prominent daily business of the Cabinet is to receive imperial edicts and rescripts and present memorials, lay before his majesty the affairs of the empire and receive his orders thereon, and forward them to the appropriate office to be copied and promulgated. In order to expedite business in court, it is the custom, after the ministers have read and formed an opinion upon each document, to fasten a slip of paper at the foot, or more than one if elective answers are to be given, and thus present the document to his majesty, in the presence-cham ber, who, with a stroke of his pencil on the answer he chooses, decides its fate. The papers having been examined and ar ranged, are submitted to the sovereign at daylight on the follow ing morning, in the daily audience ; one of the six Manchu hiohsz' first reads each document and hands it over to one of the four Chinese hiohsz', who inscribes the answer dictated by the sovereign, or hands it to him to perform that duty with the ver milion pencil. By this arrangement, a large amount of business can be summarily dispatched ; but it is also evident that no little depends upon the manner in which the answer written upon the slip is drawn up, as to the reception or rejection of the paper, though care has been taken in this particular by requiring that codicils be prepared, showing the reasons for each answer. The 326 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. appointment, removal, and degradation of all officers throughout his vast dominions, orders respecting the apportionment or remit tal of the revenue and taxes, disposition of the army, regulation of the nomadic tribes, — in short, all concerns, from the highest appointments and changes down to petty police cases of crime, are brought to the notice and action of the emperor, through the Cabinet. Besides these daily duties, there are some additional functions devolving upon the members of the Cabinet, such as presiding on all state occasions and sacrifices, coronations, reception of embassies, &c. ; these duties are fulfilled by the ten assistant hiohsz', who are all vice-presidents of the Board of Rites. They are the keepers of the 25 seals of government in the Palace of Peace, each of which is of a different form, and used for differ ent and special purposes, according to the custom of orientals, who place so much dependence upon the seal for vouching for the authenticity of a document.* Attached to the Cabinet are ten subordinate officers, one of which is for translating documents into the various languages found in the empire. The higher members of the Cabinet are familiarly called koh hu, i. e. elders of the council-room, from which the word coho, often met with in books upon China, is derived.") 2. The KiuN-Ki Chu, or General Council, is of recent organi zation, but is probably the most influential body in the govern ment ; and, though quite unlike in its construction, corresponds to the ministry of western nations more than any other branch of the Chinese system. It is composed of princes of the blood, chancellors of the Cabinet, tbe presidents and vice-presidents of the six Boards, and chief officers of all the other courts in the capital, selected at the emperor's pleasure, who are unitedly called " great ministers directing the machinery of the army," — the army being here taken to signify the nation. Its duties are " to write imperial edicts and decisions, and determine such * Chinese Chrestomathy, page 570, chap. xvii», sect. 4. t A still more common designation for officers of every rank in the em ploy of the Chinese government, has not so good a parentage ; this is the word mandarin, derived from the Portuguese mandar, to command, and indiscriminately applied by foreigners to every grade from a premier to a tide-waiter ; it is not needed in English as a general term for officers, and ought to be disused, moreover, from its tendency to convey the impression that they are in some way unlike their compeers elsewhere. KIUN-KI CHU OR GENERAL COUNCIL. 327 things as are of importance to the army and nation, in order to aid the sovereign in regulating the machinery of affairs." The ¦number of members of the General Council probably varies ac cording to his majesty's pleasure, but as no list of them is given in the Red Book, it is impossible to tell the proportion of Chinese and Manchu officers constituting this mainspring of the govern ment, though nearly one-half are Manchus, and their relative preponderance in the two great councils of the empire shows in whose hands the real direction of the affairs of state lie. The members of the General Council assemble daily in the Forbidden Palace, between five and six in the morning, and there transact the business before them ; when summoned by his ma jesty into the council-chamber, they sit upon mats or low cush ions, no person ever . being permitted to sit on chairs in th§ real or supposed presence of the emperor. His majesty's commands being written down by them, are, if public, transmitted to the Inner Council to be promulgated ; but on any matter requiring secresy or expedition, a dispatch is forthwith made up and sent under cover to the Board of War to be forwarded. In all im portant consultations or trials, this Council, either alone or in connexion with the appropriate court, is called in ; and in time of war it is formed into a committee of ways and means. Lists of officers entitled to promotion are kept by it, and the names of proper persons to supply vacancies furnished the emperor. Ma ny of the residents in the colonies are members of the Council, and communicate directly with his majesty through it, and re ceive allowances and gifts with great formality from the throne, — a device of statecraft designed to maintain an awe of the im perial character and name as much as possible among the mixed races under them. From this account of its duties, the General Council evidently fills an important station in the system, and tends greatly to con solidate the various branches of government, and facilitate their harmonious action, as well as to supply the deficiencies of an imbecile, or restrain the acts of a tyrannical monarch. The Statutes from which these notices are taken speak of various record-books, both public and secret, kept by the members for noting down the opinions of his majesty ; and add that there are no fixed times for audiences, one or more sessions being held daily, according to the exigencies of the state. Besides these 328 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. functions, its members are further charged with certain literary matters, and three subordinate offices are attached to the Council for their preparation. One is for drawing up narratives of im^ portant transactions, — a few of those relating to the war with England would be curious at this time ; a second is for trans lating* documents ; and the third, entitled " an office for observing that imperial edicts are carried into effect," must at times have rather an arduous task, though probably its responsibility ends when the dispatch goes forward. An office with this title shows that the Chinese government, with all its business-like arrange ments, is still an Asiatic one.* The duties of these supreme councils are general, comprising matters relating to all departments of the government, and serve to connect the head of the state with the subordinate bodies, not only at the capital, but in all the provinces, so that he can, and probably does to a very great degree, thereby maintain a gene ral acquaintance with what is done in all parts, and sooner recti fy disorders and malpractices. The rivalry between their mem bers, and the dislike entertained by the three races composing them, cause no doubt some trouble to his majesty, but they also tend to prevent conspiracies and intrigues. It must not be sup posed, however, that every high officer in the Chinese govern ment is wholly unprincipled, venal, and intriguing ; most of them desire to serve and maintain their country. The King Chau, i. e. Court Transcripts, usually called the Peking Gazette, is compiled from the papers presented before the General Council, and constitutes the principal source .of informa tion available to the people for ascertaining what is going on in the empire. Every morning, ample extracts from the papers decided upon or examined by the emperor, including his own or ders and rescripts, are placarded upon boards in a court of the palace, and form the materials for the annals of government and the history of the empire. Couriers are dispatched to all parts of the land, carrying copies of these papers to the high provincial officers ; and persons are also permitted to print these documents without note or change, and circulate them at their own charges to their customers. This is the Peking Gazette, and such the mode of its compilation. It is very generally read and talked about by the gentry and educated people in cities, and tends to * Chinese Repository, Vol. IV., p. 138. Chinese Chrestomathy, page 573. THE SIX BOARDS. BOARD OF CIVIL OFFICE. 329 keep them more acquainted with the character and proceedings of their rulers, than the Romans were of their sovereigns and senate. In the provinces, thousands of persons find employment by copying and abridging the Gazettes for readers who cannot afford to purchase the complete edition. The principal executive bodies in the capital under these two Councils are the Luh Pu, or Six Boards, which are departments of long standing in the government, having been modelled on much the same plan during the ancient dynasties. At the head of each Board are two presidents, called shang-shu, and four vice-presi dents, called shilang, alternately a Tartar and a Chinese ; and over three of them — those of Revenue, War, and Punishment — are placed superintendents, who are frequently members of the Cabinet ; sometimes the president of one Board is superintendent of another. There are three subordinate grades of officers in each Board, who may be called directors, under-secretaries, and controllers, with a great number of minor clerks, and their appro priate departments for conducting the details of the general and peculiar business coming under the cognisance of the Board, the whole being arranged and subordinated in the most business like style. The detail of all the departments in the general and provincial governments is regulated to the minutest matter in the same manner. For instance, each Board has a different style of envelope in which to send its dispatches, and the papers in the offices are filed away in them. 3. The Li Pu, or Board of Civil Office, " has the government and direction of all the various officers in the civil service of the empire, and thereby it assists the emperor to rule all people ;" and these duties are further defined, as including " whatever ap pertains to the plans of selecting rank and gradation, to the rules of determining degradation and promotion, to the ordinances of granting investitures and rewards, and the laws for fixing sche dules and furloughs, that the civil service may be supplied." Ci vilians are presented to the emperor, and all civil and literary officers distributed throughout the empire by this Board. There are four bureaus in this Board. The first attends to the distinctions, precedence, promotion, exchanging, &c, of offi cers. The second investigates their merits and worthiness to be recorded and advanced, or contrariwise, ascertains the character each officer bears, and the mariner in which he fulfils his duties, 330 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. and prescribes his furloughs. The third regulates retirement from office on account of mourning or filial duties to sick parents, and supervises the registration of official names ; it is through this bureau that Hwang Ngantung, the governor of Kwangtung, has lately been degraded for not resigning his office on the death of his mother. The fourth regulates the distribution of titles, patents, and posthumous honors. The Chinese is the only go vernment that ennobles ancestors for the merits of their descend ants ; the custom arose out of the worship paid them, in which the rites are proportionate to the rank of the deceased, not of the survivor ; and if the deceased parent or grandparent were com moners, they receive proper titles in consequence of the eleva tion of their son or grandson. This custom is not a trick of state to get money, as has been said,* for commoners cannot buy these posthumous titles ; they can only buy nominal titles for themselves. The usage, however, offers an illustration of the remark of Job, " His. sons come to honor, and he knoweth it not." 4. The Hu Pu, or Board of Revenue, " directs the territorial government of the empire, and keeps the lists of population in order to aid the emperor in nourishing all people ; whatever ap pertains to the regulations for levying and collecting duties and taxes, to the plans for distributing salaries and allowances, to the rates for receipts and disbursements at the granaries and treasu ries, and to the rights for transporting by land and water, are re ported to this Board, that sufficient supplies for the country may be provided." Besides these duties, it obtains the admeasure ment of all lands in the empire, and proportions taxes and con scriptions, according to the divisions, population, &c, regulates the expenditure, and ascertains the latitude and 'longitude of places. One minor office prepares lists of all the Manchu girls fit to be introduced into the palace for selection as inmates of the imperial hareem, a duty which seems somewhat incongruous, un less these girls are regarded as the revenue from Manchuria. The injudicious mode of collecting revenue common under the Persian and Syrian kings, by which the sums obtained from sin gle cities and provinces were apportioned among the royal fami ly and favorites, and carried directly to them, has never been practised by the Chinese. * Peopli of China, page 59. BOARDS OF REVENUE AND KITES. 331 There are fourteen subordinate departments under this Board to attend to the receipt of the revenue from each of the eighteen provinces, each of which corresponds with the treasury depart ment in its respective province. The revenue being paid in rarious ways and articles, as money, grain, manufactures, &c, the receipt and distribution of the various articles require a large number of assistants. This Board is moreover a court of appeal on disputes respecting property, and superintends the mint in each province ; one bureau is called the " great ministers of the Three Treasurie," viz. of metals, silks and dye-stuffs, and stationery. 5. The Li Pu, or Board of Rites, •¦ examines and directs con- i cerning the performance of the five kinds of the ritual obser vances, and makes proclamation thereof to the whole empire, thus aiding the emperor in guiding all people. Whatever appertains to the ordinances for regulating precedence and literary distinc tions, to the canons for maintaining religious honor and fidelity, to the orders respecting intercourse and tribute, and to the forms of giving banquets and granting bounties, are reported to this Board in order to promote national education." The five classes of riles are defined to be thoss of a propitious and those of a felicitous nature, military and hospitable rites, and these of an infelicitous nature. Among the subordinate departments is that of ceremonial forms, which " has the regulation of the etiquette to be observed at court on all occasions, on congratulatory attendances, in the per formance of official duties, &c. ; also the regulation of dresses, caps, etc. : as to the figure, size, color, and nature of their fabrics and ornaments, of carriages and riding accoutrements, their form, &c., with the number of followers and insignia of rank. It has also the direction of the entire ceremonial of personal intercourse between the various ranks of peers, minutely defining the num ber of bows and degree of attention which each is to pay to the other when meeting in official capacities, according as they are on terms of equality or otherwise. It has also to direct the forms of their written official intercourse, including those to be ob served in addresses to and from foreign states. The regulation of the literary examinations, the number of the graduates, the distinction of their classes, the forms of their selection, and the privileges of successful candidates, with the establishment of governmental schools and academies, are all under this depart ment.'' 332 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. Another office superintends the rites to be observed in worship. ping deities and spirits of departed monarchs, sages, and worthies, and in " saving the sun and moon " when eclipsed. The third, called '*»host and guest office," looks after tribute and tribute- bearers, and takes the whole management of foreign embassies, supplying not only provisions, but translators, and ordering the mode of intercourse between China and other states. The fourth oversees tbe supplial of food for banquets and sacrifices. The details of all the multifarious ritual duties of this Board occupy fourteen volumes of the Statutes. " Truly nothing is without its ceremonies," as Confucius taught, and no nation has paid so much attention to them in the ordering of its government as the Chinese. The Book of Rites is the foundation of ceremonies, and the in fallible standard as to their meaning, and the importance the Chinese attach to them has had a powerful influence in forming their national character. Attached to the Board of Rites is a Board of Music, containing an indefinite number of officers possessing musical talents, whose duties " are to study the principles of harmony and melody, to compose musical pieces and form instruments proper to play them, and then suit both to the various occasions on which they are required." Nor are the graces of dancing and posture- making neglected by these ceremony-mongers ; but it may with truth be said, tbat if no other nation ever had a Board of Music, and required so much official music as the Chinese, certainly none ever had less real melody. 6. The Ping Pu, or Board of War, " has the government and direction of all the officers within and without the provinces em ployed in the military service of the nation, for the purpose of aiding the emperor in protecting all people. Whatever apper tains to the ordinances for taking away, giving, and resuming office or inheriting rank, to the plans of the post-office depart ment, to the rules of military examination and discipline, and to the rates and enrolment of actual service, are reported to this Board, in order to regulate the hinge of state" — i. e. the main spring in the whole machine, the army, on which the Manchus depend for maintaining their supremacy. The navy is also under the control of this Board, whose general functions are in dicated by its title. The management of the post is confided to a special department, and the transmission of official dispatches BOARDS OF WAR AND PUNISHMENTS. 333 is performed with great efficiency and regularity. A minor bureau of the courier office is called " the office for the announce ment of victories," which contrived, no doubt, to make itself useful during the war with England, though from a recital of its duties it appears to be rather an urgent express office, whose couriers should hasten as if they announced a victory. The examination of mil itary candidates, providing all kinds of warlike stores, animals, and chariots in camp, castle, and field ; determin ing the number and overseeing the conduct of officers, positions of the forces and garrisons, &c, naturally falls within the juris diction of the Board of War. The regulation of the entire army is committed to several de partments, and the forces under each are kept distinct. The imperial body-guard, as such, is directed* by the Shi-wei chu, or Court of the Guards, and every precaution is taken to insure its fidelity, and attach the officers and men to their master. The Manchu army which effected the conquest in 1644 was assisted by Mongols and Chinese, the three nations were divided into eight corps or " banners," and still form the hereditary defence of the conquerors. Each of the twenty-four corps are under a tulung, or general, and twofu tulung, or lieutenant-generals, whose du ties are " to sustain the regulations of the various corps, to keep account of their instruction and maintenance, to arrange their titles and honors, and to economize the expenditure upon them, in order to aid the sovereign in regulating the affairs of the ' ban nered force.' " Most of these troops remain at Peking or in Liautung, and the smaller military bodies of Chinese in the capital are connected with them. The detail of the subdivisions and locations of this part of the army, and of the native troops in the provinces, possesses a minor interest compared with the civil service. The total number of troops of all arms and nations sta tioned throughout the empire cannot be stated ; the Chinese troops form the greater, and probably the least effective part.* 7. The Hing Pu, or Board of Punishments, " has the govern ment and direction of punishments throughout the empire, for the purpose of aiding the sovereign in correcting all people. What ever appertains to measures of applying the laws with leniency or severity, to the task of hearing evidence and giving decisions, ' Chinese Repository, Vol. IV., pp. 188, 276-287 ; Vol. V., pp. 165-178. 334 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. to the rights of granting pardons, reprieves, or otherwise, and to the rate of fines and interest, are all reported to this Board, to aid in giving dignity to national manners." The Hing Pu partakes of the nature of both a criminal and civil court ; its officers usu ally meet with those of the Censorate and Tali Sz', the three forming the San Fah Sz', or Three Law Chambers, which decide on capital cases brought before them. In the autumn, these three unite with members from six other courts, forming collectively a Court of Errors to revise the decisions of the provincial judges, before reporting them to his majesty. These precautions ^re taken to prevent injustice, when life is involved, and the system shows an endeavor on the part of the Chinese to secure a full and impartial consideration for all capital cases, which, although it may signally fail of its .full effect, does them high credit, when the little value set upon life generally by Asiatic governments is considered. These bodies are expected to conform their deci sions to the law, nor are they permitted to cite the emperor's own decisions as precedents, without the law on these decisions has been expressly entered as a supplemental}- clause in the Code. It also belongs to sub-officers in the Board of Punishments to record all his majesty's decisions upon appeals from the provinces at the autumnal assizes, when the entire list is presented for his examination and ultimate decision, and see that these sentences are transmitted to the provincial judges. Another office super intends the publication of the quinquennial edition of the Code, with all the changes and additions ; a third oversees jails and jailers ; a fourth receives the fines levied by commutation of punishments ; and a fifth registers the receipts and expenditures of the Board. If the administration of the law in China at all corresponded with the equity of most of its enactments, or the caution taken in preventing collusion, malversation, and haste on the part of the judges, it would be incomparably (he best govern ed country out of Christendom ; but the painful contrast between good laws and wicked rulers is such as to show the utter impos sibility of securing the due administration of justice without higher moral principles than heathenism can teach. 8. The Kung Pu, or Board of Works, " has the government and direction of the public works throughout the empire, together with the current expenses of the same, for the purpose of aiding the emperor to keep all people in a state of repose. Whatever BOARD OF PUBLIC WORKS. 335 appertains to plans for buildings of wood or earth, to the forms of useful instruments, to the taws for stopping up or opening chan nels, and to the ordinances for constructing the mausolea and temples, are reported to this Board in order to perfect national works." The duties of the Board of Works are of a miscella neous nature, and are performed in other countries by no one department, though the plan adopted by the Chinese is not with out its advantages. One bureau t^kes cognisance of the condi tion of all city walls, palaces, temples, altars, and other public structures ; sits as a prize-office, and furnishes tents for his ma jesty's journeys, supplies timber for ships, and pottery and glass ware for the court. A second attends to the manufacture of military stores and utensils employed in the army, sorts the pearls from the fisheries according to their value, regulates weights and measures, furnishes " death-warrants " to governors and generals, and lastly, takes charge of arsenals, stores, camp- eqUipage, and other things appertaining to the army. A third department has charge of all water-ways and dikes ; it also re pairs and digs canals, erects bridges, oversees the banks of rivers by means of deputies stationed at posts along their course, builds vessels of war, collects tolls, mends roads, digs the sewers in Pe king and cleans out its gutters, preserves ice, makes book-cases for public records, and lastly, looks after the silks sent as taxes. The fourth of these offices confines its attention chiefly to the condition of the imperial mausolea, the erection of the sepulchres and tablets of meritorious officers buried at public expense, and the adornment of temples and palaces, as well as superintending all workmen employed by the Board. The mint is under the direction of two vice-presidents, and the manufacture of gunpowder is specially intrusted to two great ministers. One would think from this recital that the functions of the Board of Works were so diverse, that it would be one of the most efficient parts of government ; but if the condition of forts, ports, dikes, &c, in other parts of the country, corresponds to those along the coast, there is, as his majesty said of the army, * the appearance of going to war, but not the reality," — most of the works being on record, and suffered to remain there, except when danger threatens, or his majesty specially orders a public work, and, what is more important, furnishes the money. 9. The Li Fan Yuen, i. e. Court for the Government of Fo- 336 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. reigners, commonly called the Colonial Office, " has the govern ment and direction of the external foreigners, orders their emolu ments and honors, appoints their visits to court, and regulates their punishments, in order to display the majesty and goodness of the state." This is an important branch of the government, and has the superintendence of all the wandering and settled tribes in Mongolia, Cobdo, III, and Koko-nor. All these are called wai fan, or " external ^foreigners," in distinction from the tributary tribes in Sz'chuen and Formosa, who are termed nui fan, or "internal foreigners." There are also nui i and wai i, or " internal and external barbarians," the former comprising the unsubdued mountaineers of Kweichau, and the latter the inhabit ants of all foreign countries, who do not choose to range them selves under the renovating influences of the Celestial empire. The Colonial Office regulates the government of the nomads and restricts their wanderings, lest they trespass on each other's pasture-grounds. Its officers are all Manchus and Mongols, having over them one president and two vice-presidents, Man chus, and one Mongolian vice-president appointed for life. Besides the usual secretariates for conducting its general business, there are six departments, whose combined powers in clude every detail of authority necessary for the management of these clans. The first two have jurisdiction over the numerous tribes and corps of the Inner Mongols, who are under more com plete subjection than the others, and part have been placed un der the control of officers in Chihli and Shansi. The appointment of local officers, collecting taxes, allotting land to Chinese set tlers, opening roads, paying salaries, arranging the marriages, retinues, visits to court, and presents made by the princes, and the review of the troops, all appertain to these two departments. The third and fourth have a similar, but less effectual control over the princes, lamas, and tribes of Outer Mongolia. At Ku run, in the Tuchetu khanate, reside two high ministers, organs of communication with Russia, and general overseers of the frontier. The oversight of the lama hierarchy in Mongolia is now completely under the control of this office ; and in Tibet, their power has been considerably abridged. The fifth depart ment directs the actions, restrains the power, levies the taxes, and orders the tributary visits of the Mohammedan begs in the southern circuit of fli, who are quiet pretty much as they are COLONIAL OFFICE AND CENSORATE. 337 paid by presents and flattered by honors. The sixth department regulates the penal discipline of the tributary tribes. The sala ries paid the Mongolian princes are distributed according to an economical scale. A tsin wang, or " kindred prince," annually re ceives only $2,600 and 25 pieces of silk ; a kiun wang, or " prince of a princedom," receives about $1,666 and 15 pieces of silk ; and so on through the ranks of Beile, Beitse, Duke, &c, the last of whom receives a stipend of only $133 and four pieces of silk. The internal organization of these tribes strikingly resembles the feudal system, but the Chinese government is endeavoring to reduce the influence and retinues of the khans and begs, and ele vate the people to become independent owners and cultivators of the soil. 10. The Tu-chah Yuen, or Censorate, i. e. " All-examining Court," is intrusted with the " care of manners and customs, the investigation of all public offices within and without the capital, the discrimination between the good and bad performance of their business, and between the depravity and uprightness of the offi cers employed in them ; taking the lead of other censors, and uttering each his sentiments and reproofs, in order to cause offi cers to be diligent in attention to their daily duties, and to render the government of the empire stable." The Censorate, when joined with the Board of Punishments and Court of Appeal, forms a high court for the revision of criminal cases, and hearing ap peals from the provinces ; and in connexion with the Six Boards and the Court of Representation and Appeal, makes one of the Kiu King, or Nine Courts, which deliberate on important affairs of government. The officers are two censors and four deputy censors, besides whom the governors, lieutenant-governors, and the governors of rivers and inland navigation are ex-officio deputy censors. A class of censors is placed over each of the Six Boards, whose du ties-are to supervise all their acts, to receive all public documents from the Cabinet, and after classifying them, transmit them to the several courts to which they belong, and to make a semi monthly examination of the papers entered on the archives of each court. All criminal cases in the provinces come under the oversight of the censors at the capital, and the department which superintends the affairs of the metropolis revises its municipal acts, settles the quarrels, and represses the crimes of its inhabit- 16 338 the middle kingdom. ants. These are the duties of the Censorate, than which no part of the Chinese government has attracted more attention from foreigners. The privilege of reproof given by the law to the office of censor has sometimes been exercised with remarkable candor and plainness, and many cases are recorded in history of these officers suffering for their fidelity, but such instances must be few indeed in proportion to the failures. The celebrated Sung, who was appointed commissioner to ac company Lord Macartney, once remonstrated with the emperor Kiaking upon his attachment to play-actors and strong drink, which degraded him in the eyes of his people, and incapacitated him from performing his duties. The emperor, highly irritated, called him to his presence, and on his confessing to the authorship of the memorial, asked him what punishment he deserved. He answered " Quartering." He was told to select some other ; " Let me be beheaded ;" and on a third command, he chose to be strangled. He was then ordered to retire, and the next day the emperor appointed him governor in lli, thus acknowledging his rectitude, though unable to bear his censure. History records the reply of another censor in the reign of an emperor of the Tang dynasty, who, when his majesty once desired to inspect the archives of the historiographer's office, in order to learn what had been recorded concerning himself, under the excuse that he must know his faults before he could well correct them, was answered, " It is true your majesty has committed a number of errors, and it has been the painful duty of our employ ment to take notice of them ; a duty which further obliges us to inform posterity of the conversation which your majesty has this day, very improperly, held with us." The censors usually attend on all state occasions by the side ¦of his majesty, and are frequently allowed to express their opinions openly, but in a despotic government this is little else than a fiction of state, for the fear of offending the imperial ear, and consequent disgrace, will usually prove stronger than the consciousness of right, or the desires of a public fame and martyrdom for the sake of principle. The usual mode of advising is to send in a remonstrance against a proposed act, as when one of the bpdy in 1832 remonstrated against the emperor paying attention to anonymous accusations ; or to suggest a different procedure, as the memorials of Chu Tsun against CONDUCT AND DUTIES OF CENSORS. 339 legalizing opium. The number of these papers inserted in the Peking Gazettes for the information of the empire, in many of which the acts of officers are severely reprehended, shows that the censors are not altogether idle. In 1833, a censor named Su, requested the emperor to interdict official persons at court from writing private letters concerning public persons and affairs in the provinces. He stated, that when candidates left the capital for their provincial stations, private letters were sent by them from their friends to the provincial authorities, " sounding the voice of influence and interest," by which means justice was perverted. The emperor ordered the Cabinet to examine the censor, and get his facts in proof of these statements, but on inquiry, he either would not or could not bring forward any cases, and he himself consequently received a reprimand from his majesty. " These censors are allowed," says the emperor, " to tell me the reports they hear, to inform me concerning courtiers and governors who pervert the laws, and to speak plainly about any defect or impro priety which they may observe in the monarch himself; but they are not permitted to employ their pencils in writing memorials, which are filled with vague surmises and mere probabilities or suppositions. This would only fill my mind with doubts and uncertainty, and I would not know what men to employ ; were this spirit indulged, the detriment of government would be most serious. Let Sii be subjected to a court of inquiry." The suspension or disgrace of censors for their freedom of speech is a common occurrence, and among the forty or fifty persons who have this privilege, a few are to be found who do not hesitate to lift up their voice against what they deem to be wrong ; and there is reason for supposing that only a small portion of their remonstrances appears in the Gazettes. With regard to this department of government, it may be observed, that although it may tend only in a partial degree to check oppression and reform abuses, and a close examination of its real operations and influ ence, and the character of its members, may excite more con tempt than respect, still the existence of such a body, and the publication of its memorials, can hardly fail to rectify miscon duct to some degree, and check mal-administration before it results in widespread evil. The Censorate is, however, only one of a number of checks upon the conduct of officers, and perhaps by no means the strongest. 340 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. 11. The Tung-ching Sz', which may be called a Court of Representation, consists of a small body of six officers, whose duty is to receive memorials from the provincial authorities and appeals from their judgment by the people, and present them to the Cabinet. Attached to this Court is an office for attending at the palace-gate to await the beating of a drum, which, in confor mity with an ancient custom, is placed there that applicants' may by striking it obtain a hearing. It is also the channel through which the people can directly appeal to his majesty, and cases frequently occur of individuals, even women and girls, travelling to the capital from remote places to present their petitions for redress before the throne. The feeling of blood revenge prevails among the Chinese, and impels many of these weak and unprotected persons to undergo great hardships to obtain legal redress, when the lives of their parents have been unjustly taken by the powerful and rich. 12. The Ta-l1 Sz', or Court of Judicature, has the duty of adjusting all the criminal courts in the empire, and forms the nearest approach to a Supreme Court in the government, though the cases brought before it are mostly criminal. When the crimes involve life, this Court, with the Court of Representation and Censorate, unite to form one court, and if the judges are not unanimous in their decisions, they must report their reasons to the emperor, who will pass judgment upon them. In a despotic government, no one can expect that the executive officers of courts will exercise their functions with that caution and equity required in Christian countries, but considerable care has been taken to obtain as great a degree of justice as possible. 14. The Hanlin Yuen, or Imperial Academy, is intrusted " with the duty of drawing up governmental documents, histories, and other works ; its chief officers take the lead of the various classes, and excite their exertions to advance in learning, in order to prepare them for employments, and fit them for attending upon the sovereign." This body has, it is highly probable, some simi larity to the collection of learned men to whom the king of Babylon intrusted the education of promising young men, for although the members of the Hanlin Yuen do not, to any great degree, educate persons, they are constantly referred to as the Chaldeans were by Belshazzar. Sir John Davis likens it to the Sorbonne, inasmuch as it expounds the sacred books of the Chi- COURTS OF JUDICATURE AND IMPERIAL ACADEMY. 341 nese. Its chief officers are two presidents or senior members, called chwang yuen hiohsz', who are usually appointed for life, after a long course of study ; they attend upon the emperor in the palace, superintend the studies of graduates, and furnish semi-annual lists of persons to be " speakers," at the " classical feasts," where the literary essays of his majesty are translated from and into Manchu, and read before him. Subordinate to the two senior members are four grades of offi cers, five in each grade, together with an unlimited number of senior graduates, each forming a sort of college, whose duties are to prepare all works published under governmental sanction ; these persons are subject from time to time to fresh examination, and are liable to lose their degrees, or be altogether dismissed from office, if found faulty or deficient. Subordinate to the Hanlin Yuen is an office consisting of twenty-two selected mem bers, who in rotation attend on the emperor, and make a record of his words and actions. There is also an additional office for the preparation of national histories. The situation of a member of the Hanlin is one of considera ble honor and literary ease, and scholars look forward to a sta tion in it as one which confers dignity in a government where all officers are appointed according to their literary merit, but much more from its being the body from which the emperor selects his most responsible officers. A graduate of this rank is most likely to be nominated to a vacant office, though the possession of the title does not of itself entitle him to a place. Before proceeding; to consider the provincial governments, notices of some of the other departments, not connected with the general machinery of the state, are here in place. The munici pality of Peking has already been noticed when describing the capital, but it is so intimately connected with the general govern ment as to form an integral part of the machine. Among the courts not connected with the municipal rule of the metropolis, nor forming one of the great departments of state, is the Tai- chang Sz' or Sacrificial Court, whose officers " direct the sacrifi cial observances, and distinguish the various instruments and the quality of the sacrifices. Their duties are of importance in connexion with the state religion, and they rank high among the dignitaries of the empire, but as members of this possess no power. The Tai-puh Sz' or Superintendent of H. I. M.'s Stud, 342 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. is an office for "rearing horses, taking account of their increase, and regulating their training;" large tracts of land beyond the Great Wall are appropriated to this purpose, and the clerks of this office, under the direction of the Board of War, oversee the herdsmen and grooms who have the rearing of the horses. The Kwangluh Sz', or Banqueting House, has the charge of " feasting the meritorious and banqueting the deserving ;" it is somewhat subordinate to the Board of Rites, and provides what ever is necessary for banquets given to literary graduates, foreign ambassadors, yet his energies are still in full force. His colleagues Pwan Shi-ngan and Muchangah, as well as the assistant cabinet minister Wang Ting, have invariably displayed diligence and attention, and have not failed in yielding us assistance. Tang Kinchau, president of the Board of Office, has knowledge and attainments of a respectable and sterling character, and has shown himself public spirited and intelligent in the performance of special duties assigned to him. Shi Chi yen, president of the Board of Punishments, retains his usual strength and energies, and in the performance of his judicial duties has displayed perspicacity and circumspection. The assistant cabinet minister and governor of Chihli province, Kishen, transacts the aflairs of his govern ment with faithfulness, and the military force under his control is well disciplined. Husunge, the governor of Shensi and Kansuh provinces, is cautious and prudent, and performs his duties with careful exactness. llipu, governor of Yunnan and Kweichau, is well versed in the aflairs of his frontier government, and has fully succeeded in preserving it free from disturbance. Linking, who is intrusted with the general charge SCALE OF OFFICIAL MERITS AND DEMERITS. 355 of the rivers in Kiangnan, has not failed in his care of the embank ments, and has preserved the surrounding districts from all disquietude. To show our favor unto all these, let the Board of Office determine on appropriate marks of distinction for them. "Kweisan, subordinate minister of the Cabinet, is hasty, and deficient, both in precision and capacity ; he is incapable of moving and acting for himself; let him take an inferior station, and receive an appointment in the second class of the guards. Yihtsih, vice-president of the Board of Works for Moukden, possesses but ordinary talents, and is incompetent to the duties of his present office ; let him also take an inferior station, and be appointed to a place in the first class of guards. Narkinge, the governor of Hukwang, though having under him the whole civil and military bodies of two provinces, has yet been unable, these many days, to seize a few beggarly impish vagabonds : after having in the first instance failed in prevention, he has followed up that failure by idleness and remissness, and has fully proved himself inefficient. Let him take the lower station of lieut.-governor in Hunan, and within one year let him, by the apprehension of Lan Chingtsun, show that he is aroused to greater exertions. " Let all our other servants retain their present appointments. Among them Tau Shu, the governor of Kiangnan and Kiangsi, is bold and determined in the transaction of affairs, but has not yet attained enlarged views in regard to the salt department ; Chung Tsiang, the governor of Fuhkien and Chehkiang, finds his energies failing; Tang Tingching, the governor of Kwangtung and Kwangsi, possesses barely an adequate degree of talent and knowledge ; and Shin Kihien, though faithful and earnest in the performance of his duties, has in common with these others, been not very long in office. " That all ministers will act with purity and devotedness of purpose, with public spirit and diligence, is our most fervent hope. A special edict."* The effect of such confessions and examination of character is to repress and restrain the commission of outrageous acts of op pression ; and it is still further enforced by the privilege both censors and private subjects possess of complaining to the empe ror of their misdeeds. Fear for their own security has suggested this multiplicity of checks, but the emperor and his ministry have no doubt thereby impeded the efficiency of their subordinates, and compelled them to attend so much to their own standing, that they care far less than they otherwise would for the prosperity of the people. * Chinese Repository, Vol. VI., page 48. 356 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. The position of an officer in the Chinese government can hard ly be ascertained from the enumeration of his duties, nor his temptations to oppress his inferiors and deceive his superiors in ferred from a general account of the system. His duties, as in dicated in the Code, are so minute, and often so contradictory, as to make it impossible to fulfill them strictly ; it is found, accord ingly, that few or none have ascended the slippery heights of promotion without frequent relapses. Degradation, when to a step- or two and temporary, carries with it of course no moral taint in a country where the award for bribery is graduated ac cording to the amount received, without any reference to moral violation ; where the bamboo is the standard of punishment as well for error in judgment or remissness as for crime, only commuted to a fine in honor of official rank ; where, as a distinction in fa vor of the imperial race, the bamboo is softened to the whip, and banishment mitigated to the pillory.* The highest officers have of course the greatest opportunity to oppress, but their extortions are limited by the venality and mendacity of the agents they are compelled to employ. Inferiors also can carry on a system of exactions if they keep on the right side with those above them. The whole class form a body of men mutually jealous of each other's advance, and one constantly endeavoring to supplant the other ; they all agree in regarding the people as the source of their profits, the great spunge which all must squeeze, but differ in the degree to which they should carry on the same plan with each other. Although sprung from the mass of the people, the welfare of the community has little place in their thoughts. Their life is spent in ambitious efforts to rise upon the fall of others, though they do not lose all sense of character, or become reckless of the means of advance, for this would destroy their chance of success. The game they play with each other and their imperial master is, however, a harmless one compared with that of the pashas and viziers of the sultans and shahs in West ern Asia. To the honor of the Chinese, life is seldom sacrificed for political crime or envious emulation ; no officer dreads a bowstring or a poisoned cup from his lord paramount, nor is on the watch against the dagger of an assassin hired by a vindictive competitor. W hatever heights of favor or depths of frown he * Chinese Repository, Vol. IV., page 59. POSITION AND CHARACTER OF CHINESE OFFICIALS. 357 may experience, the servant of the emperor of China need not, in unproved cases of delinquency, fear for his life ; but he not unfrequently takes it himself from conscious guilt and dread of the just punishment of the laws. The names and standing of all officers are published quarterly by permission of government in the Red Book (which by an usual coincidence is bound in red), called the Complete Book of the Girdle Wearers (Tsin Shin Tsiuen Shu), comprised in four volumes 12mo., to which are occasionally added two others of army and navy lists. In this book the native province of each person is mentioned, whether he is a Chinese, Manchu, Mongol, or naturalized Manchu, that is, a descendant of those Chinese who aided the reigning family in the conquest ; and moreover describes the title of the office, its salary, and con siderable other general information. The publishers of the book expect that officers will inform them of the changes which take place in their standing, and usually omit to mention those who do not thus report themselves. A memoir of the public life of some of the highest officers in China, would present a singular picture of ups and downs, but on account of their notorious disregard of truth, Chinese documents are unsafe to trust entirely in drawing such a sketch. One of the most conspicuous men in late times was Duke Ho of Macartney's embassy, who for many years exercised a greater control over the counsels of Kienlung than is recorded of any other man during the present dynasty. This man was originally a private person, and attracted the notice of the emperor by his comeli ness, and secured it by his zeal in discharging the offices intrust ed to him. With but few interruptions, he gradually mounted the ladder of promotion, and for some years before Kienlung's death was master of the country. Staunton describes him as possessing eminent abilities ; " the manners of Hokwxin were not less pleasing than his understanding was penetrating and acute. He seemed indeed to.possess the qualities of a perfect statesman." The favorite had gradually filled the highest posts with his friends, and his wellwishers were so numerous in the general and provincial governments, that some began to apprehend a rising in his favor when the emperor died. Kiaking, on his accession, began to take those cautious measures for his removal, which showed the great influence he possessed ; one of these proceed- 358 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. ings was to appoint him superintendent of the rites of mourning, in order probably, that his official duties might bring him often to the palace. After four years, the emperor drew up sixteen articles of impeachment against the favorite, most of them frivo lous and vexatious, though of more consequence in the eyes of a Chinese prince than they would have been at other courts. One article alledged, that he had ridden on horseback up to the palace gate ; another, that he had appropriated to his own household the females educated for the imperial hareem ; a third, that he had detained the reports of officers in time of war from coming to the emperor's eye, and had appointed his own retainers to office, when they were notoriously incompetent ; a fourth, that he had built many apartments of wood exclusively appropriated to majesty, and imitated regal style in his grounds and establish ment. He was also accused of having pearls and jewels of larger size than those even in the emperor's crown. But so far as can be inferred from what was published, this Cardinal Wool sey of China, was, comparatively speaking, not cruel in the exer cise of his power, and the real cause of his fall was evidently his riches ; in the schedule of his confiscated property, it was mentioned that besides houses, lands, and other immovable pro perty to an amazing extent, not less than one hundred and five millions of dollars in bullion and gems were found in his treasury. A special tribunal was instituted for his trial, and he was allowed to become his own executioner, while his constant associate was condemned to decollation. These were the only deaths, the remainder of his relatives and dependents being simply removed and degraded. His power was no doubt too great for the safety of his master if he had proved faithless ; but his wealth was too vast for his own security, even had he been innocent. The emperor in the edict which contains the sentence, cites as a precedent for his own acts, similar condemnation of premiers by three of his ancestors in the present dynasty, but nothing definite is known of their crimes or trials.* The present emperor was more clement, or more fortunate than his father, and continued Tohtsin in power when he came to the throne ; this statesman had held the premiership from 1815 to 1832, with but few interruptions, when he was allowed to retire * Chinese Repository, Vol. III., page 241. NOTICES OF DUKE HO, CHANGLING, AND SUNG. 359 at the age of seventy-five. He had served under three emperors, having risen step by step from the situation of clerk in one of the offices. His successor Changling experienced a far more checquered course, but remained in favor at last, and retired from the premiership in 1836, aged about seventy-nine. He became very popular with his master from his ability in quell ing the insurrection of Jehangir in Turkestan in 1827. Few Chinese statesmen have been oftener brought into notice than Sung, one of the commissioners attached to Lord Macartney's embassy, and a favorite of all its members. His lordship speaks of him then, as a young man of high quality, possessing an ele vated mind ; and adds, " that during the whole time of our con nection with him, has on all occasions conducted himself towards us, in the most friendly and gentlemanlike manner." This was in 1793. In 1817, he is mentioned as one of the Cabinet, but not long after ; for some unknown reason, he was degraded by Kiaking to the sixth rank, and appointed adjutant-general among the Tsakhars ; from thence he memorialized his master respecting the ill conduct of some lamas, who had been robbing and murder ing. Sung and his friends opposed the emperor's going to Manchuria, and were involved in some trouble on this account, the reasons of which it is difficult to understand. Sung was pro moted, however, to be captain-general of Manchuria, but he again fell under censure, and on his visit to his paternal estate at Moukden, the emperor took him back to the capital, and appointed him to some important office. He soon got into new trouble with the emperor, who in a proclamation remarks, " that Sung is inadequate to the duties of minister of the imperial presence ; because, although he formerly officiated as such, he is now up wards of seventy years of age, and rides badly on horseback;" he is therefore sent to Manchuria to fill his old office of captain- general. The next year, the ex-minister and his adherents were involved in a long trial about the loss of a seal, and he was deprived of 'his command, and directed to retire to his own tribe ; the real merits of this disgrace were probably connected with the change of parties ensuent upon the accession of Taukwang. Sung was restored to favor soon after, and made adjutant at Jeh ho, after having been president of the Censorate for a month. He was allowed to remain there longer than usual, and employed his spare time in writing a book upon the newly acquired terri- 360 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. tory in Turkestan. In 1824, he was reinstated as president of the Censorate, with admonitions not to confuse and puzzle him self with a multiplicity of extraneous matters. In 1826, he was sent on a special commission to Shansi, and when he returned, was honored with a dinner at court on newyear's day. He then appears as travelling tutor to the crown-prince, but where his royal highness went for his education does not appear ; from this post, we find him placed at the head of the Board of Rites, and then appointed to inspect the victims for a state sacrifice, pro bably in virtue of his official functions. He is then ordered to Jeh ho, from whence, in a fit of penitence, or perhaps, from fear of a dun, he memorialized the emperor about a debt of $52,000 he incurred nearly thirty years before, which he propose*! to liquidate by foregoing his salary of $1000 until the arrears were paid up ; the emperor was in good humor with the old man, and forgave him the whole amount, being assured he says of Sung's pure official character. In this memorial, when recounting his services, he says he has been twice commander-in-chief and governor of III, governor-general of Nanking, Canton, &c, but had never saved much. Soon after, he is recalled from Jeh ho, and made governor of Peking, then president of the Board of War ; and in a few months he is ordered to proceed across the desert to Cobdo to in vestigate some affair of importance, — a long and toilsome journey of fifteen hundred miles for a man over seventy-five years old. He returned the next year, and resumed his post as president of the Board of War, in which capacity he acted as examiner of the students in the Russian college. In 1831, he was made presi dent of the Colonial Office ; and shortly after, appointed superin tendent of the Three Treasuries, but was obliged to resign from ill health. A month's relaxation seems to have wonderfully restored him, for the emperor, in reply to his petition for employ ment, expresses surprise that he should so soon be fit for official duties, and plainly intimates his opinion that the disease was all sham, though he accedes to his request so far as to nominate him commander of one of the eight banners. In 1832, Sung again got involved in intrigues, and was reduced to the third degree of rank ; the resignation of Tohtsin and the struggle for the vacant premiership was probably the real reason of this new reverse, though a frivolous accusation of two years' standing was SKETCH OF COMMISSIONER LIN. 361 trumped up against him. He was restored again after a few months' disgrace, at the petition of a beg of a city in Turkestan, which shows by the way the influence those princes exert. Old age now began to come upon the courtier in good earnest, and in 1833 he was ordered to retire with the rank and pay of adjutant. which he lived to enjoy only two years. Much of the success of Sung was said to be owing to his having had a daughter in the seraglio, but his personal character and kindness was evidently the main source of his enduring influence among all ranks of people and officers ; one account says the Manchus almost worshipped him, and beggars clung to his chair in the streets to ask alms. It is worthy of notice that in all these reverses, there is no men tion made of any severer punishment than degradation and ba nishment, and in this particular, the political life of Sung is probably a fair criterion of the usual fortune of high Chinese statesmen. The leading events in the life of Changling, the successor of Tohtsin, together with a few notices of the govern or of Canton in 1833, Li Hungpin, are given in the same volume of the Repository.* Commissioners Lin and Kiying have lately become more famous among foreigners than even the members of the Council, from the parts they have acted in the late war with England, but only a few notices of their lives are accessible. Lin Tsehsu was born in 17S5, in Fuhkien, and passed through the literary- examinations, becoming a graduate of the second rank at the age of nineteen, and of the third when twenty-six. After filling an office or two in the Imperial Academy, in which he was em ployed in compiling works and arranging papers, he was sent as assistant literary examiner to Kiangsi in 1S16, and during three subsequent years acted as examiner and censor in various places. In 1819, he filled the office of tauiai, or intendant of circuit, in Chehkiang ; and after temporary absence on account of his health, he was, in 1823, appointee, to fill the post of treasurer of Kiangsu, in the absence of the incumbent. In 1826, he was made governor of the rivers, but hearing of his mother's death, resigned his office to go home and mourn for her. After the period of mourning was finished, he went to Peking, and received the office of judge in Shensi ; but, before he had been in it a •Chinese Repcsitf.iv. Vol. IV.. pp. (U-fii''. 17 362 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. month, he was made treasurer of Kiangsu, and before he could enter upon this new office, he heard of his father's death, and was obliged to resign to fulfill the prescribed term of mourning for him. In 1832, he was nominated treasurer in Hupeh, and five months after, transferred to the same office in Honan, and six months after that sent to Kiangsu again. Three months after this third transfer, he was reinstated governor of the Yellow river, and within a short time elevated to be lieutenant-governor of Kiangsi, which he retained three years, and acted as governor- general of Liang Kiang two years more. In 1838, he was made governor of Hukwang; and shortly after this, ordered to come to Peking, to be admitted to an imperial audience, and by special favor, permitted to ride on horseback within the palace. He was at this audience appointed imperial commissioner to put down the opium trade, and manage the affairs of the mari time frontier of Kwangtung, receiving at the time such plenipo tentiary powers to act for the emperor as had only once before been committed to a subject since the present dynasty came upon the throne, viz. when Changling was sent to Turkestan to quell the insurrection. In December, 1839, he was appointed governor of Kwangtung and Kwangsi, but, in October, 1840, the seals of office were taken away from him, and he was ordered to return to Peking. He did not leave Canton immediately, but remained till May of the next year to advise with Kishen in his difficult negotiations with the English, after which he and Kishen, and other high officers, went to the capital under arrest ; Lin was tried and banished to lli, but before he had set out, the emperor partly restored him to favor, and appointed him, for the third time, governor of the Yellow river. Since that time, we have no definite account of his political life. A forged paper, purporting to be an imperial rescript, was handed about in 1843, stating his death to have occurred, and ordering sacrificial honors to be paid his manes ; such papers are not uncommon, though it is not easy to trace their origin or understand their object. Few Chinese statesmen have appeared of late who have exceeded Lin in energy and integrit}" ; and he was, for these qualities, a great favorite with the people of Canton. His figure was well proportioned, somewhat inclined to embonpoint ; in 1839, a fair complexion and brilliant eye, added to an animated carriage, made him altogether a very good looking man. If NOTICES OF KIYING. 363 Lin is still alive, which there is reason to suppose, he will pro bably be heard of again in the councils of bis country. The party of which he is a leading member is still powerful, and more than ever desirous of humbling the English. Much less is kncjwn of the official life of Kiying than of Lin, but the Manchu has shown himself superior to the Chinese in conducting the business committed to his care. The first that is known of him was in 1835, when his name is mentioned as presi dent of the Board of Revenue and controller of the imperial household. He was retained at the capital as commander-in- chief of the forces there until 1842, when his majesty sent him to Canton to take the place of the despicable Yihshan, and his in efficient colleagues. He was ordered to stop at Hangchau, how ever, on his. way, and make a report of the condition of affairs ; his memorials seem to have had great influence at court, for he was appointed joint-commissioner with llipu, in April of that year. At the negotiations of Nanking, Kiying acted as chief commissioner, and was mainly instrumental in bringing the war to a conclusion. He was ordered to proceed to Canton in May, 1843, to succeed the aged llipu, who had died, and there acted as sole commissioner in negotiating the supplementary treaty and the commercial regulations, after which he returned to the capital, in December, 1843. His prudence and vigor had great effect in calming the irritation of the people of Canton ; and, on the arrival of Mr. Cushing, the American plenipotentiary, he was nominated imperial commissioner to treat with him. The powers at this time conferred on him made him, in fact, a minis ter of foreign affairs. During the progress of these negotiations, governor Ki Kung died, and Kiying succeeded him in the com mand of the Liang Kwang, or the Two Broad provinces. Few Chinese statesmen in modern times have borne a higher charac ter for prudence, dignity, and intelligence than Kiying, and the confidence reposed in him is creditable to his imperial master. The portrait of him has been engraved from a native painting, and is generally regarded as a good one. It was kindly fur nished for this work by J. R. Peters, jun., from the Chinese Museum, to which the original belongs. One remarkable feature of the Chinese political world is the great age of the high officers, and it is not easy to account for their being kept in their posts, when almost useless and worn out, 364 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. by a monarch who wished to have efficient men around him, although it is not so strange that the holders of the stations should cling to their offices, salaries and influence. It is, perhaps, explainable, in a measure, on the ground that, as long as the old incumbents are alive, his majesty, being more habituated to their company and advice, prefers to retain those of whose character he has some knowledge. The patriarch, kept near the emperor, is moreover a kind of hostage for the loyalty of his descendants and clients ; and the latter, scattered throughout the provinces, can be managed and moved about through him with less oppo sition : he is, still further, a convenient medium through which to receive the exactions of the younger members of the service, and convey such intimations as are thought necessary. The system of clientela, which existed among the Gauls and Franks, is also found in China with some modifications, and has a tendency to link officers to one another in parties of different degrees of power. The emperor published an order in 1833 against this system of patronage, and it is evident that he would find it seriously interfering with his power, if it was not constantly broken up by changing the relations of the parties, and sending them away in different directions. Peking is no doubt almost the only place where the " teacher and pupils," as the patron and client call each other, could combine to much purpose ; and the principal safeguard the throne seems to have against intrigues and parties around it, lies in the conflicting interests arising among themselves, though a long established favorite of the crown, as in the case of Duke Ho, can sometimes manage to engross the patronage. Notwithstanding the heavy charges of oppression, cruelty, bribery and mendacity, which are generally brought against officers with more or less propriety, it must not be inferred that no good qualities exist among them. Hundreds of them desire to rule equitably, to clear the innocent and punish the guilty, and exert all the knowledge and power they possess to discharge their functions to the acceptance of their master and popularity of the inhabitants. Such officers, too, generally rise, while the cruelties of others are visited with degradation. The pasquinades which the people stick up in the streets indicate their sentiments, and receive much more attention than they would in other coun tries, because it is almost the only way in which their opinions FAREWELL ADDRESS OF CHU OF CANTON. 365 can be safely uttered. The popularity which upright officers receive acts as an incentive to others to follow in the same steps, as well as a reward to the person himself. The fuyuen of Kwangtung in 1833, Chu, was a very popular officer, and when he obtained leave to resign his station on account of age, the people vied with each other in showing their hearty regret at losing him. The old custom was observed of retaining his boots, and presenting him with a new pair at every city he passed through, and many other testimonials of their regard were adopted. On leaving the city of Canton, he circulated a few verses, " to console the people and excite them to virtue," for he heard that some of them wept on hearing of his departure. " From ancient days, my fathers trod the path Of literary fame, and placed their names Among the wise ; two generations past, Attendant on their patrons, they have come To this provincial city.* Here this day, 'T is mine to be imperial envoy; Thus has the memory of ancestral fame Ceased not to stimulate this feeble frame. My father held an office at Lungchau,t And deep imprinted his memorial there ; — He was the sure and generous friend Of learning unencouraged and obscure. When now I turn my head and travel back, In thought to that domestic hall, it seems As yesterday, those early happy scenes ; — How was he pained, if forced to be severe ! ' From times remote, Kwangtung has been renowned For wise and mighty men ; but none can stand Among them, or compare with Kiuh Kiang : — t Three idle and inglorious years are passed, And I have raised no monument of fame, By shedding round the rays of light and truth, * The Chinese have a great affection for the place of their nativity, and consider being in any of the other provinces, like being in a foreign settle ment. They always wish to return thither in life, or have their remains carried and interred there after death. t A district in the province of Kwangtung. t Kiuh Kiang was an ancient minister of state during the Tang dynasty. His imperial master would not listen to his advice and he therefore retired. Rebellion and calamities arose. The emperor thought of his faithful ser vant, and sent for him , but he was already dead. 366 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. To give the people knowledge. In this heart I feel the shame, and cannot bear the thought. " But now, in flowered pavilions, in street Illuminations, gaudy shows, to praise The gods and please themselves, from year to year The modern people vie, and boast themselves, And spend their hard-earned wealth, — and all in vain For what shall be the end ? Henceforth let all Maintain an active and a useful life, The sober husband and the frugal wife. " The gracious statesman (gov. Loo), politic and wise, Is my preceptor and my long tried friend ; Called now to separate, spare our farewell, The heart-rending words affection so well loves. That he may still continue to exhort The people, and instruct them to be wise, To practice virtue, and to keep the laws Of ancient sages, is my constant hope. " When I look backward o'er the field of fame Where I have travelled a long fifty years, The struggle for ambition and the sweat For gain, seem altogether vanity. Who knoweth not that heaven's toils are close, Infinitely close ! Few can escape. Ah ! how few great men reich a full old a^e ' How few unshorn of honors, end their days ! " Inveterate disease has twined itself Around me, and binds me in slavery. The kindness of his majesty is high* And liberal, admitting no return, Unless a grateful heart ; still, still my eyes Will see the miseries of the people. — Unlimited distresses, mournful, sad, To the mere passer-by, awaking grief. " Untalented, unworthy, I w-ithdraw, Bidding farewell to this windy, dusty world ; Upwards I look to the supremely good — The emperor, — to choose a virtuous man To follow me. Henceforth it will be well. — The measures and the merits passing mine ; But I shall silent stand and see his grace Diffusing blessings like the genial spring." * In permitting Chu to retire from public life. liKEAT AGE OF HIGH OFFICERS. 367 Commissioner llipu, Ki Kung, the late governor-general of Kwangtung, and Shu, tho prefect of Ningpo in 1842, are other officers who have been popular in late years. When Lin passed through Macao in 1839, the Chinese had in several places erected honorary portals adorned with festoons of silk and laudatory scrolls ; and when he passed the doors of their houses and shops thoy set out tables decorated with vases of flowers, " in order to manifest their profound gratitude for his coming to save them from a deadly vice, and for removing from them a dire calamity by the destruction and severe interdiction of opium." Alas, that his efforts and intentions should have been so fruitless ! The Peking Gazettes frequently contain petitions from old officers describing their ailments, their fear lest they shall not bo able to perform their duties, the length of their official service, and requesting leave of absence or permission to retire. It is impossible to regard a?? the expressions of loyalty in these papers, coming as they do from all classes of officers, as utterly heart less and made out according to a prescribed form, but we are rather inclined to tako them, in many cases, as the honest senti ments of their minds. Among many instances which might be given, a memorial from Shi, a censor in 1824, is sufficient for an example. In this, he says, " reflecting within myself, that notwithstanding the decay of my strength, it has still pleased the imperial goodness to employ me in a high office instead of rejecting and discarding me at once, I have been most anxious to effect a cure, in order that, a weak old horse as I am, it might be still in my power, by tho exertion of my whole strength, lo recompense a ten-thousandth part of the benevolence which restored me to life."* The emperor sometimes is obliged to take the other side, and order the octogenarians to resign ancl go home ; that he does not displace them at oneo is ono of those singular anomalies constantly seen in this government, which in our posilion cannot be accounted for satisfactorily ; the regard paid to age, for which the Chinese arn justly famed, may form one reason for redlining them. Connected with the triennial schedule of ollicial merits and demerits, is tho necessity the high officers of state are under of confessing their faults of government ; and the two form a pecu- *Chinese Repository, Vol. IV., p. 71. 368 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. liar and somewhat stringent check upon their intrigues and malversation, making them, as Le Comte observes, " exceeding circumspect and careful, and sometimes even virtuous against their own inclinations." The confessions reported in the Peking Gazettes are, however, by no means satisfactory as to the real extent or nature of these acts ; most of the confessors are cen sors, and perhaps it is in virtue of their office that they thus sit in judgment upon themselves. Examples of the crimes men tioned are not wanting. The governor-general of Chihli requested severe punishment in 1832 for not having discovered a plotting demagogue who had collected several thousand adherents in his and the next provinces ; his request was granted. An admiral in the same province requests punishment for not having properly educated his son, as thereby he went mad and wounded several people. Another demanded a court upon himself because the empress-dowager had been kept waiting at the palace gate by the porters, when she paid her majesty a visit. One officer accused himself for not being able to control the Yellow river ; and his majesty's cook in 1830 requested punishment for being too late in presenting his bill of fare, but was graciously forgiven. The rarity of these confessions, compared with the actual sins, shows either that they are, like a partridge's doublings, made to draw off attention from the real nest of malversation, or that few officers are willing to undergo the mortification. The emperor, in his character of vicegerent of heaven, occa sionally imposes the duty of self-confession upon himself. Kia king issued several public confessions during his reign, but the Gazettes have not contained many such papers since the present monarch. took the sceptre. These confessions are drawn from him more by natural calamities, such as drought, freshets, epi demics, &c, than by political causes, though insurrections, fires, ominous portents, &c, sometimes induce them. The personal character of the monarch has much to do with their frequency and phraseology. On occasion of a drought in 1817, the empe ror Kiaking said, " The remissness and sloth of the officers of government constitute an evil which has long been accumulating. It is not the evil of a day ; for several years I have given the most pressing admonitions on the subject, and have punished many cases which have been discovered, so that recently there appears a little improvement, and for several seasons the weather CONFESSION OF FAULTS BY OFFICERS. 369 has Ijeen favorable. The drought this season is not perhaps entirely on their (the officers') account. I have meditated upon it, and am persuaded that the reason why the azure heavens above manifest disapprobation by withholding rain for a few hundred miles only around the capital, is, that the fifty and mora rebels who escaped, are secreted somewhere near Peking. Hence it is that fertile vapors are fast bound, and the felicitous harmony of the seasons interrupted." A hurricane of sand, which arose in 1819 near the capital and darkened it at noontide, puzzled this superstitious monarch, and he sent a commissioner to ascertain where it originated, and what act of injustice on the part of the local authorities had generated such a catastrophe. Somebody must be found fault with, for somebody was of course responsible, and the astronomer royal was accordingly repri manded for not having predicted it, and others scolded for their mismanagement. One of the most remarkable specimens of these papers is a prayer for rain issued by Taukwang in 1832, on occasion of a severe drought at the capital. Before issuing this paper, he had endeavored to mollify the anger and heat of heaven by ordering all suspected and accused persons in the prisons of the metropo lis to be tried, and their guilt or innocence established, in order that the course of justice might not be delayed, and witnesses be released from confinement. But these vicarious corrections did not avail, and the drought continuing, he was obliged, as high-priest of the empire, to show the people that he was mindful of their sufferings, and would relieve them, if possible, by pre senting the following memorial : "Kneeling, a memorial is hereby presented, to cause affairs to be heard. " Oh, alas ! imperial Heaven, were riot the world afflicted by extraor dinary changes, I would not dare to present extraordinary services. But this year the drought is most unusual. Summer is past, and no rain has fallen. Not only do agriculture and human beings feel the dire calamity, but also beasts and insects, herbs and trees, almost cease to live. I, the minister of Heaven, am placed over mankind, and am responsible for keeping the world in order, and tranquillizing the people. Although it is now impossible for me to sleep or eat with composure; although T am scorched with grief, and tremble with anxiety ; still, after all, no genial and copious showers have been obtained. " Some days ago, I fasted, and offered rich sacrifices, on the altars of 17* 370 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. the gods of the land and the grain ; and bad to be thankful for gathering clouds, and slight showers ; but not enough to cause gladness. Looking up, I consider that Heaven's heart is benevolence and love. The sole cause is the daily deeper atrocity of my sins : but little sincerity and little devotion. — Hence I have been unable to move Heaven's heart, and bring down abundant blessings. " Having searched the records, I find, that, in the 24th year of Kien lung, my imperial grandfather, the high, honorable, and pure emperor reverently performed a ' great snow service.' I feel impelled, by ten thousand considerations, to look up and imitate the usage, and with trembling anxiety, rashly assail Heaven, examine myself, and consider my errors ; looking up and hoping that 1 may obtain pardon. I ask myself, — whether in sacrificial services I have been disrespectful? Whether or not pride and prodigality have had a place in my heart, springing up there unobserved ? Whether, from the length of time, I have become remiss in attending to tbe affairs of government ; and have been unable to attend to them with that serious diligence, and strenuous effort, which I ought ? Whether I have uttered irreverent words, and have deserved reprehension ? Whether perfect equity has been attained in conferring rewards or inflicting punishments? Whether in raising mausolea and laying out gardens, I have distressed the people and wasted property ? Whether in the appointment of officers I have failed to obtain fit persons, and thereby the acts of government have been petty and vexatious to the people ? Whether punishments have been unjustly inflicted or not ? Whether the oppressed have found no means of appeal ? Whether in persecuting heterodox sects, the innocent have not been in volved ? Whether or not the magistrates have insulted the people, and refused to listen to their affairs ? Whether in the successive military operations on the western frontiers, there may not have been the horrors of human slaughter, for the sake of imperial rewards ? Whether the lar gesses bestowed on the afflicted southern provinces were properly applied, or the people were left to die in the ditches ? Whether the efforts to exterminate or pacify the rebellious mountaineers of Hunan and Kwang tung, were properly conducted ; ,or whether they led to the inhabitants being trampled on as mire and ashes ? — To all these topics, to which my anxieties have been directed, I ought to lay the plumb-line, and strenu ously endeavor to correct what is wrong ; still recollecting that there may be faults which have not occurred to me in my meditations. " Prostrate I beg imperial Heaven, (Hwang Tien) to pardon my igno rance and stupidity, and to grant me self-renovation ; for myriads of in nocent people are involved by me, a single man. My sins are so nume rous, it is difficult to escape from them. Summer is past, and autumn arrived ; to wait longer will really be impossible. Knocking head, 1 pray, imperial Heaven, to hasten and confer gracious deliverance, — a PRAYER OF THE EMPEROR TOUKWANG FOR RAIN. 371 Bpeedy and divinely beneficial rain ; to save the people's lives ; and in some degree redeem my iniquities. Oh, alas ! imperial Heaven, observe these things. Oh, alas ! imperial Heaven, be gracious to them. I am inexpressibly grieved, alarmed, and frightened. — Reverently this me morial is presented." — Repository, Vol. i., p. 236. This paper apparently intimates some acknowledgment of a ruling power above, and before a despot like the emperor of China would place hixiiself in such an equivocal posture before his peo ple, he would assure himself very thoroughly of their sentiments; for its effects as a state paper would be worse than null if the least ridicule was likely to be thrown upon it. In this case, heavy showers followed the imperial supplications the same evening, and appropriate thanksgivings were ordered, and sacrifices pre sented before the six altars of heaven, eaith, land and grain, and the gods of heaven, earth, and the revolving year. The orders of the court, whether sent down by the emperor to the high officers in the Boards, or directly to the provinces, are usually in manuscript, except when some grand event or ^tate ceremony requires a general proclamation, in which cases, the document is printed on yellow paper, and published in both the Chinese and Manchu languages. The governors and their sub ordinates, imperial commissioners, and collectors of customs, are the principal officers in the provinces who publish their orders to the people, consisting of admonitions, exhortations, regulations, laws, special ordinances, threatenings, and munici pal requirements. Standing laws and local regulations are often carved very beautifully on black marble, and placed in the streets to be " held in everlasting remembrance," so that no one can plead ignorance : — a custom which recalls the mode of pub lishing the Twelve Tables at Rome. Several of these legal tablets, beautifully carved, are to be seen at Canton and Macao. The common mode of publishing the commands of government is to print the document in large characters, and stick up copies at the door of the offices and in the streets in public places, with Ihe seal of the officer attached to authenticate them. The paper on which they are printed being only common Chinese paper, and there being no protection from the weather, the sheets are soon destroyed ; the people read them as they are thus exposed, and copy them if they wish, but it is not uncommon, too, for the magistrates to print important edicts in pamphlet form for circu- 372 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. lation. The style adopted in these papers is the legal one, and differs from common writing as much as that does in English, but in Chinese it is not involved or obscure. A single specimen of an edict, out of many which could be given, will suffice to illus trate the form of these papers, and moreover show upon what subjects a Chinese ruler sometimes legislates, and the care he is expected to take of the people. " Sii and Hwang, by special appointment magistrates of the districts of Nanhai and Pwanyu, raised ten steps and recorded ten times, Hereby dis tinctly publish important rules for the capture of grasshoppers, that it may be known how to guard against them, in order to ward off injury and calamity. On the 7th day of the 8th month in the 13th year of Taukwang (Sept. 20th, 1833), we received a communication from the prefect of the [department of Kwangchau], transmitting a dispatch from their excellen cies the governor and lieutenant-governor, as follows : " ' During the fifth month of the present year, flights of grasshoppers appeared in the limits of Kwangsi, in [the departments of] Liu, Tsin, Kwei, and Wu, and their vicinage; which have already, according to report, been clean destroyed and driven off. We have heard that in the department of Kauchau and its neighborhood, conterminous to Kwangsi, grasshoppers have appeared which multiply with extreme rapidity. At this time, the second crop is in the blade (which if destroyed will endam age the people), and it is proper therefore immediately, wherever they are found, to capture and drive them off, marshalling the troops to advance and wholly exterminate them. But Kwangtung heretofore has never experienced this calamity, and we apprehend the officers and people do not understand the mode of capture ; wherefore we now exhibit in order the most important rules for catching grasshoppers. Let the governor's combined forces be immediately instructed to capture them secundum artem; at the same time let orders be issued for the villagers and farmers at once to assemble and take them, and for the magistrates to establish storehouses for their reception and purchase, thus without fail sweeping them clean away. If you do not exert yourself to catch the grasshop pers, your guilt will be very great ; let it be done carefully, not clandes tinely delaying, thus causing this misfortune to come upon yourselves, transgressing the laws, and causing us again, according to the exigencies of the case, to promulgate general orders, and make thorough examina tion, &.c, &c. Appended hereto are copies of the rules for catching grasshoppers, which from the lieut.-governor must be sent to the treasurer, who will enjoin it upon the magistrates of the departments, and he again upon the district magistrates.' " Having received the preceding, besides respectfully transmitting it to the colonel of the department to be straightway forwarded to all the EDICT FOR THE CAPTURE OF GRASSHOPPERS. 373 troops under his authority, an3 also to all the district justices, that they all with united purpose bend their energies to observe at the proper time, that whenever the grasshoppers become numerous they join their forces and extirpate them, thus removing calamity from the people ; we also en join upon whoever receives this that they catch the grasshoppers ac cording to these several directions, which are therefore here arranged in order as follows : " ' 1. When the grasshoppers first issue forth, they are to be seen on the borders of large morasses, from whence they quickly multiply and fill large tracts of land ; they produce their young in little hillocks of black earth, using the tail to bore into the ground, not quite an inch in depth, which still remain as open holes, the whole somewhat resembling a bee's nest. One grasshopper drops ten or more pellets, in form like a pea, each one containing a hundred or more young. Por the young grasshop pers fly and eat in swarms, and this laying of their young is done all at once and in the same spot ; the place resembles a hive of bees, and therefore it is very easily sought and found. "' 2. When the grasshoppers are in the fields of wheat and tender rice and the thick grass, every day at early dawn they all alight on the leaves of the grass, and their bodies being covered with dew are heavy and they cannot fly or hop ; at noon, they begin to assemble for flight, and at evening they collect in one spot. Thus each day there are three periods when they can be caught, and the people and gentry will also have a short respite. The mode of catching them is to dig a trench before them, the broader and longer the better, on each side placing boards, doors, screens and such like things, one stretched on after another, and spreading open each side. The whole multitude must then cry aloud, and holding boards in their hands, drive them all into the trench ; mean while those on the opposite side, provided with brooms and rakes, on seeing any leaping or crawling out, must sweep them back ; then cover ing them with dry grass, burn them all up. Let the fire be first kindled in the trench, and then drive them into it ; for if they are only buried up, then many of them will crawl out of the openings and so escape. " ' 3. When the swarms of grasshoppers see a row of trees, or a close line of flags and streamers, they usually hover over and settle ; and the farmers frequently suspend red and white clothes and petticoats on long poles, or make red and green paper flags, but they do not always settle with great rapidity. 'Moreover, they dread the noise of gongs, match locks, and guns, hearing which they fly away. If they come so as to obscure the heavens, you must let off the guns and clang the gongs, or fire the crackers ; it will strike the front ranks with dread, and flying away, the rest will follow them and depart. " ' 4. When the wings and legs of the grasshoppers are taken off, and [their bodies] dried in the sun, the taste is like dried prawns, and more- 374 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. over they can be kept a long time without spoiling. Ducks can also be reared upon the dried grasshoppers, and soon become large and fat. Moreover, the hill people catch them to feed pigs ; these pigs, weighing at first only twenty catties or so, in ten days' time grow to weigh more than fifty catties ; and in rearing all domestic animals they are of use. Let all farmers exert themselves, and catch them alive, giving rice or money according to the number taken. In order to remove this calamity from your grain, what fear is there that you will not perform this ? Let all these rules for catching the grasshoppers be diligently carried into full effect.' " Wherefore these commands are transcribed that all you soldiers and people may be fully acquainted with them. Do you all then immediately in obedience to them, when you see the proper time has come, sound the gong ; and when you see the grasshoppers and their young increasing, straightway get ready, on the one hand seizing them, and on the other announcing to the officers that they collect the troops, that with united strength you may at once catch them, without fail making an utter ex termination of them; thus calamity will be removed from the people. We will also then confer rewards upon those of the farmers and people who first announce to the magistrates their approach. Let every one implicitly obey. A special command. "Promulgated Taukwang, 13th year, 8th month, and 15th day."* The effect of these orders on the grasshoppers did not equal the zeal of the officers, but swarms of locusts are neither nume rous nor devastating in China. The concluding part of an edict affords some room for displaying the character of the promulgator. Among other endings, are such as these : " Hasten ! hasten ! a special edict." " Tremble hercat intensely." " Lay not up for yourselves future repentance by disobedience." " I will by no means eat my words." " Earnestly observe these things." In their state papers, Chinese officers are constantly referring to ul timate truths and axioms, and deducing arguments therefrom in a peculiarly national grandiloquent manner, though some of their conclusions are tremendous non-sequiters. Commissioner Lin addressed a letter to the Queen of England regarding the inter diction of opium, which began with the following preamble: " Whereas, the ways of heaven are without partiality, and no sanction is allowed to injure others in order to benefit one's self, and that men's natural feelings are not very diverse (for where is he who does not abhor death and love life ?) — therefore your * Easy Lessons in Chinese, pp. 223-327. CHARACTER AND PHRASEOLOGY OF THE EDICTS. 375 honorable nation, though beyond the wide ocean, at a distance of twenty thousand li, also acknowledges the same ways of heaven, the same human nature, and has the like perceptions of the dis tinctions between life and death, benefit and injury. Our hea venly court has for its family all that is within the four seas ; and as to the great emperor's heaven-like benevolence — there is none whom it does not overshadow ; even regions remote, desert, and disconnected, have a part in his general care of lifeand well-beng." The edicts furnish almost the only exponents of the inten tions of government. They present several characteristic features of the ignorant conceit and ridiculous assumptions of the Chinese, while they betray the real weakness of the authorities in the mixture of argument and command, coaxing and threatening, pervading every paragraph. According to their phraseology, there can possibly be no failure in the execution of every order ; if they are once made known, the obedience of the people follows almost as a matter of course ; while at the same time, both the writer and the people know that most of them are but little better than waste paper. The responsibility of the writer in a measure ceases with the promulgation of his orders, and when they reach the last in the series, their efficiency has well nigh departed. Expediency is the usual guide for obedience ; deceiving supe riors and oppressing the people, the rule of action on the part of officials ; and their orders do not more strikingly exhibit their weakness and ignorance, than their mendacity and conceit. It is not easy, without citing many examples accompanied with particular explanations, to give a just idea of the actual execution of the laws, and show how far the people are secured in life and property by their rulers; and perhaps nothing has been the source of such differing views regarding the Chinese among writers, as the predominance they give either to the theory or the practice of legislation. Old Magaillans (p. 250) has hit this point pretty well, when he says, " It seems as if the legislators had omitted nothing, and that they had foreseen all inconveniences that were to be feared ; so that I am persuaded no kingdom in the world could be better governed or more happy, if the conduct and probity of the officers were but answerable to the institution of the government. But in regard they have no knowledge of the true God, nor of the eternal rewards and punishments of the other world, they are subject to no remorses of conscience, they 376 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. place all their happiness in pleasure, in dignity and riches ; and therefore, to obtain these fading advantages, they violate all the laws of God and man, trampling under foot religion, reason, justice, honesty, and all the rights of consanguinity and friend. ship. The inferior officers mind nothing but how to defraud their superiors, they the supreme tribunals, and all together how to cheat the king ; which they know how to do with so much cunning and address, making use in their memorials of words and expressions so soft, so honest, so respectful, so humble and full of adulation, and of reasons so plausible, that the deluded prince frequently takes the greatest falsehoods for solemn truths. So that the people, finding themselves continually oppressed and overwhelmed without any reason, murmur and raise seditions and revolts, which have caused so much ruin and so many changes in the empire. Nevertheless, there is no reason that the excel lency and perfection of the laws of China should suffer for the depravity and wickedness of the magistrates." Magaillans resided in China nearly forty years, and his opinion may be considered on the whole as a fair judgment of the real condition of the people and the policy of their rulers. When one is living in the country itself, to hear the complaints of individuals against the extortion and cruelty of their rulers, and to read the reports of judicial murder, torture, and crime, in the Peking Gazettes, are enough to cause one to wonder how such atrocities and oppressions are endured from year to year, and why the sufferers do not rise and throw aside the tyrannous power which thus abuses them. But the people are generally sensible that they would really gain nothing by such a procedure, and their desire to maintain as great a degree of peace as possible, leads them to submit to many evils, which in western countries would soon be remedied or cause a revolution. In order to restrain the officers in their misrule, Sect. ccx. of the Code ordains that " If any officer of government, whose situation gives him power and control over the people, not only does not conciliate them by proper indulgence, but exercises his authority in a manner so inconsistent with the established laws and approved usages of the empire, that the sentiments of the once loyal subjects being changed by his oppressive conduct, they assemble tumultuously and openly rebel, and drive him at length from the capital city and seat of his government; such officer shall suffer death." EXTORTION OF MAGISTRATES. 377 By the laws of China, every officer of the nine ranks must be previously qualified for duty by a degree ; in the ninth are in cluded village magistrates, deputy treasurers, jailers, &c, but ihe police, local interpreters, clerks, and other attendants on the courts, are not considered as having any rank, and most of them are natives of the place where they are employed. The only degradation they can feel is to turn them out of their stations, but this is hardly a palliative of the evils the people suffer from them ; the new leech is more thirsty than the old. The cause of many of the extortions the people suffer from their rulers is found in the system of purchasing office, at all times practiced in one shape or other, but occasionally publicly resorted to by the government when the exchequer is unusually low. As the counterpart of this system, that of receiving bribes must be expected therefore to prevail, and being in fact practised by all grades of dignitaries, and sometimes even upheld by them as a " necessary evil," it adds still more to the bad consequences resulting from this mode of obtaining office. Indeed so far is the practice of " covering the eyes " carried in China, that the people seldom approach their rulers without a gift to make way for them. One mode taken by the highest ranks to obtain money is to notify inferiors that there are certain days on which presents are expected, and custom soon increases these as much as the case will admit. Subscriptions for objects of public charity or dis bursements, such as an inundation, a bad harvest, bursting of dikes, and other similar things, which the government must look after, are not unfrequently made a source of revenue to the incumbents by requiring much more than is needed ; those who subscribe are rewarded by an empty title, a peacock's feather, or employment in some insignificant formality. The sale of titular rank is a source of revenue, but the government understands the importance of keeping the well-known channel of attaining office by literary merit open to all, and it seldom confers much real power for mere money, when unconnected with some degree of fitness. The security of its own position is not to be risked for the sake of an easy means of filling its exchequer, yet it is impossible to say how far the sale of office and title is carried. The censors inveigh against it, and the emperor almost apologises for resort ing to it, but it is nevertheless constantly practised. The government stocks of this description were opened during the late 378 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. war, as the necessities of the case were a sufficient excuse for the disreputable practice. In 1835, the sons of two of the lead ing hong-merchants were promoted, in consequence of their dona tions of $25,000 each, to repair the ravages of an inundation ; subscribers to tho amount of $10,000 and upwards, were re warded by an honorary title, whose only privilege is, that it saves its possessor from a bambooing, it being the taw that no one holding any office can be personally chastised. Besides the lower officers, the clerks in their employ, and the police who are often taken from the garrison soldiery, are the agents in the hands of the upper ranks lo squeeze the people. There are mahy clerks of various duties and grades about all the offices who receive small salaries, and every application and petition to their superiors, going through their hands, is attended by a bribe to pass them up. The military police and servants connected with the offices are not paid any regular salary, and their number is great. In the large districts, like those of Nanhai and Pwanyu, which compose the city of Canton and suburbs, it is said there are about a thousand unpaid police ; in the middle sized ones between three and four hundred, and in the smallest from one to two hundred. This number is increased by the domestics attending high officers as part of their suite, and by their old acquaintances who make themselves known when there is any likelihood of being employed. Among other abuses mentioned by tho censors, is that of magistrates appointing their own creatures to fill vacancies until those nominated by his majesty arrive ; like a poor man oppressing the poor, such officers are a sweeping rain. A simitar abuse is when country magistrates leave their posts to go to the provincial capital to dance attendance upon their superiors, and get nominated to a higher place, or taken into their service as secretaries, because they will work for nothing ; the duties of their vacated offices are meantime usually left undone, and underlings take advantage of their absence to make new exactions. The governor fills vacant offices with his own friends, and recommends them to his majesty to be confirmed ; but this has little effect in consolidating a system of oppression from the constant changes going on. The retinues of high provincial officers contain many depen dents and expectant supernumeraries all subservient to them ; among them are the descendants of poor officers ; the sons of bank- AGENTS AND MODES OF OFFICIAL EXACTION. 379 rupt merchants who once possessed influence ; dissipated, well bred, unscrupulous men, who lend themselves to everything flagitious ; and lastly, fortune-seekers without money, but possessing talents of good order to be used by any one who will hire them. Such persons are not peculiar to China, and their employment is guarded against in the Code, but no law is more a dead letter. Officers of government, too, conscious of their delinquencies, and afraid their posts will soon be taken from them, of course endeavor to make the most of their opportunities, and by means of such persons, who are usually well acquainted with the leading in habitants of the district, harrass and threaten such as are likely to pay well for being left in quiet. It does them little or no good, however, for if they are not removed, they must fee their supe riors ; and if they are punished for their misdeeds, they are still more certain of losing their wicked exactions. Another common mode of plundering the people is for officers to collude with bands of thieves, and allow them to escape for a composition when arrested, or substitute other persons for the guilty party in case the real offenders are likely to be con demned. Sometimes these banditti are too strong even for an upright magistrate, and he is obliged to overlook what he cannot remedy ; for, however much he may wish to arrest and bring them to justice, his policemen are too much afraid of their ven geance to venture upon attacking them. An instance of this occurred near Canton in 1839, when a boat, containing a clerk of the court and three or four police, came into the fleet of European opium-ships to hunt for some desperate opium smug glers who had taken refuge there. The fellows, hearing of the arrival of the boat, came in the night, and surrounding it, took out the crew, bound their pursuers, and burned them alive with the boat, in sight of the whole fleet, to whom they looked for pro tection against their justly incensed countrymen. A censor, in 1819, complaining of flagrant neglect in the administration of justice in Chihli, says: "Among the magis trates are many who, without fear or shame, connive at robbery and deceit. Formerly, horse-stealers were wont to conceal themselves in some secret place, but now they openly bring their plunder to market for sale. When fhey perceive a person to be weak, they are in the habit of stealing his property and returning it to him for money, while the officers, on hearing it, 380 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. treat it as a trivial matter, and blame the sufferer for not being more cautious. Thieves are apprehended with warrants on them, showing that when they were sent out to arrest thieves, they availed of the opportunity to steal for themselves. And at a village near the imperial residence are very many plunderers concealed, who go out by night in companies of twenty or thirty persons, carrying weapons with them ; they frequently call up the inhabitants, break open the doors, and having satisfied them selves with what food and wine they can obtain, they threaten and extort money, which if they cannot procure, they seize their clothes, ornaments, or cattle, and depart. They also frequently go to shops, and having broken open the shutters, impudently demand money, which if they do not get, they set fire to the shop with the torches in their hands. If the master of the house apprehends a few of them, and sends them to the magistrate, he merely imprisons and beats them, and, before half a month, allows them to run away."* The unpaid retainers about the courts are very numerous, and are more dreaded than the police ; one censor says they are looked upon by the people as tigers and wolves ; he effected the discharge of nearly 24,000 of them in the province of Chihli alone. They are usually continued in their places by the head magistrate, who, when he arrives, being ignorant of the charac ters of those he must employ, continues such as are likely to serve. In cases of serious accusation, the clerks frequently subpoena all who are likely to be implicated, and demand a fee for liberating them when their innocence is shown. These myrmidons still fear the anger of their superiors, and a recoil of the people so far as to endeavor to save appearances, by hush ing up the matter, and liberating those unjustly apprehended, with great protestations of compassion. It may be added, that, as life is not lightly taken, thieves are careful not to murder or maltreat their victims dangerously, nor do the magistrates ven ture to take life outright by torture, though their cruelties fre quently result in death, by neglect or starvation. It is money and goods both policemen and officials want, not blood and revenge. Parties at strife with each other frequently resort to legal implication to gratify their ill-will, and take a pitiful * Chinese Repository, Vol. IV., p. 218. VENALITY OF THE POLICE AND CLERKS. 381 revenge by egging on the police to pillage and vex their enemy, though they themselves profit nowise thereby. The wils resulting to the Chinese from a half-paid and venal magistracy are dreadful, and the prospects of their removal very slight. The governor of Chihli, in 1829, memorialized the emperor upon the state of the police, and pointed out a remedy for many abuses, one of which was to pay them fair salaries out of the public treasury ; but it is plain that this remedy must begin with the monarch, for, until an officer is released from sopping his superior, he will not cease exacting from his infe riors. Experience has shown the authorities how far it can safely be carried ; while many officers, seeing how useless it is to irritate the people, so far as ultimately enriching themselves is concerned, endeavor to restrain their policemen. One lieut.- governor issued an edict, stating that none of his domestics were allowed to browbeat shopmen, and thus get goods or eatables below the market price ; and permits the seller to collar and bring them to him for punishment when they did so. When an officer of high rank, as a governor, treasurer, &c, takes the seals of his post, he ofttimes issues a proclamation, exhorting the subordinate ranks to do as he means to do, — " to look up and embody the kindness of the high emperor," and attend to the faithful discharge of their duties. The lower officers, in their turn, join in the cry, and a series of proclamations, by turns hortative and mandatory, are echoed from mastiff, spaniel, and poodle, until the cry ends upon the police. Thus the prefect of Canton says : " There are hard-hearted soldiers and gnawing lictors who post themselves at ferries or markets, or rove about the streets, to extort money under various pretexts ; or, being intoxicated, they disturb and annoy the people in a hundred ways. Since I came into office here I have repeatedly com manded the inferior magistrates to act faithfully and seize such persons, but the depraved spirit still continues." A censor, speaking of the police, says : — " They no sooner get a warrant to bring up witnesses, than they assail both plaintiff and defendant for money to pay their expenses, from the amount often taels to several scores. Then the clerks must have double what the runners get ; if their demands be not satisfied, they con trive every species of annoyance. Then, again, if there are peo ple of property in the neighborhood, they will implicate them. 382 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. They plot also with pettifogging lawyers to get up accusations against people, and threaten and frighten them out of their money." One natural consequence of such a state of society, and such a perversion of justice, is to render the people afraid of all con tact with the officers of government, and exceedingly selfish in all their intercourse, though the latter trait needs no particular training to develop it in any heathen country. It also tends to an inhuman disregard of the life of others, and chills every emo tion of kindness which might otherwise arise ; for by making a man responsible for the acts of his neighbors, or by involving a whole village in the crimes of an individual, all sense of justice is violated. The terror of being implicated in any evil that takes place sometimes prevents the people from quenching fires until the superior authorities be first informed, and from reliev ing the distressed until it is often too late. Hence, too, it not unfrequently happens that a man who has had the ill fortune to be stabbed to death in the street, or who falls down from disease and dies, remains on the spot till the putrescence obliges the neighbors, for their own safety to remove the corpse. A dead body floating down the river and washing ashore is likely to re main on the banks until it again drifts away, or the authorities get it buried, for no unofficial person would voluntarily run the risk of being seen interring it. One censor reports, that when he asked the people why they did not remove the loathsome ob ject, they said, " we always let the bodies be either buried in the bellies of fishes, or devoured by the dogs ; for if we inform the magistrates they are sure to make the owner of the ground buy a coffin, and the clerks and assistants distress us in a hun dred ways." The usual end of these memorials and remon strances is that the police are ordered to behave better, the clerks commanded to abstain from implicating innocent people and retarding the course of justice, and their masters, the ma gistrates, threatened with the emperor's displeasure in case the grievance is not remedied : — after which all goes on as before, and will go on as long as both rulers and ruled are what they are. Christianity is the only remedy for the evils which afflict both parties, the only code which will teach them their rights, and give the motive for upholding them. The working out of the principle of responsibility accounts EFFECT OF MUTUAL RESPONSIBILITY. 383 for many things in Chinese society and jurisprudence, that other wise appear completely at variance with even common humanity. It makes an officer careless of his duties, if he can shift the re sponsibility of failure upon his inferiors, who, at the same time, he knows can never execute his orders ; it renders the people dead to the impulses of relationship, lest they become involved in what they cannot possibly control, and hardly know at the lime of its commission. Mr. Lindsay states that when he was at Tsungming in 1832, the officers were very urgent that he should go out of the river, and in order to show him the effect of his non-compliance upon others, a degraded subaltern was paraded in his sight. " His cap with its gold button was borne before him, and he marched about blindfolded in procession be tween two executioners, with a small flag on a bamboo pierced through each ear. Before him was a placard, with the inscrip tion, ' By orders of the general of Su and Sung : for a breach of military discipline, his ears are pierced as a warning to the multitude.' His offence was having allowed our boat to pass the fort without reporting it." During the last war with England, fear of punishment in duced many of the subordinates to commit suicide when unable te execute their orders, and the same motive impelled their su periors to avoid the wrath of the emperor in the same way. The hong-merchants and linguists at Canton, during the old regime, were constantly liable to exactions and punishments for the acts of their foreign customers from the operation of this principle. One of them, Sunshing, was put in prison and ruined because Lord Napier came to Canton from Whampoa in the boat of a ship he had " secured " several weeks before, and the linguist and pilot were banished, for allowing what they could not possibly have hindered even if they had known it. Having examined in this general manner every grade of offi cial rank, we come to the people ; and a close view will show that this great mass of human beings exhibits many equally ob jectionable traits, and that oppression, want, feudal rivalry, and brigandige, combine to keep it in a constant state of tur moil. The subdivisions into tithings and hundreds are much better observed in rural districts than in cities, and the headmen of those communities in their individual and collective charac ter, possess great influence, from the fact that they represent the 384 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. popular feeling. In all parts of the country this popular organi zation is found in some shape or other, though, as if everything was somehow perverted, it not unfrequently is an instrument of greater oppression than defence. The division of the people into clans is perhaps the cause of much of this combination, and as these clans are probably remnants of the old feudal principali ties anterior to the Christian era, resembling in many respects the Scottish clans, so are the evils arising from their dissensions and feuds comparable to those which history records of the troubles excited among the Highlanders by the rivalry between Campbells and Macgregors. The eldership of villages has no necessary connexion with the clans, for the latter is unacknowledged by the government, but the clan having the majority in a village generally selects the elder from among their number. In the vicinity of Canton, the elder is elected by a sort of town meeting, and holds his office during good behavior, receives such a salary as his fellow villa gers give him, and may be removed to make way for another whenever the principal persons in the village are displeased with his conduct. His duties are limited to the supervision of the police, and general oversight of what is done in the village, and to be a sort of agent or spokesman between the villagers and highsr authorities ; the duties, the power, and the rank of these officers vary almost indefinitely. The preponderance of one clan pre vents much strife in the selection of the elder, but the degree of power reposed in his hand is so small that there is probably little competition to obtain the dignity. A village police is maintained by the inhabitants, under the authority of the elder ; the village of Whampoa, for instance, containing about 8,000 inhabitants, pays the elder $300 salary, and employs fourteen watchmen. His duties further consist in deciding upon the petty questions arising between the villagers, and visiting the delinquents with chas'isement, enforcing such regulations as are deemed necessary regarding festivals, markets, tanks, streets, collection of taxes, &c. The system of surveillance is, however, kept up by the superior officers, who appoint excise officers, grain agents, tide- waiters, or some other subordinate, as the case may require, to exercise a general oversight of the headmen. The district magistrate, with the siunkien and their deputies over the hundred, are the officers to whom appeals are carried from 'VILLAGE ELDERS AND THEIR POWERS. 385 the headmen ; they also receive the reports of the elders respect ing suspicious characters within their limits, or other matters which they deem worthy of reference or remonstrance. A simi larity of interests leads the headmen of many villages to meet together at times in a public hall for secret consultation upon important matters, and their united resolutions are generally acted upon by themselves or the magistrates, as the case may be. This system of eldership, and the influential position the headmen occupy, is an important safeguard the people possess against the extremity of oppressive extortion ; while too it upholds the go vernment in strengthening the loyalty of those who feel that the only security they possess against theft, and loss of all things from their seditious countrymen, is to uphold the institutions of the land ; and that to suffer the evils of a bad magistracy is less dreadful than the horrors of a lawless brigandige. The customs and laws of clanship perpetuate a sad state of society, and render districts and villages, otherwise peaceful, the scenes of unceasing turmoil and trouble. There are only about four hundred clans in the whole of China, but inasmuch as all of the same surname do not live in the same place, the separation of a clan answers the same purpose as multiplying it. Clannish feelings and feuds appear to be much stronger in Kwangtung and Fuhkien than in other provinces, but perhaps only because foreign ers hear more of their outbreaks than elsewhere. As an instance which may be mentioned, the Gazette contains the petition of a man from Chauchau fu in Kwangtung relating to a quarrel, stat ing, " that four years before, his kindred having refused to assist two other clans in their feuds, had during that period suffered most shocking cruelties. Ten persons had been killed, and twenty men and women, taken captives, had had their eyes dug out, their ears cut off, their feet maimed, and so rendered useless for life. Thirty houses were laid in ruins, and three hundred acres of land seized, ten thousand taels plundered, ancestral temples thrown down, graves dug up, dikes destroyed, and water cut off from the fields. The governor had offered a reward ot a thousand taels to any one who would apprehend these persons, but for the ten murders no one had been executed, for the police dare not seize the offenders, whose numbers have largely increased, and who set the laws at defiance." This region is notorious for the turbulence of its inhabitants ; it adjoins the 18 386 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. province of Fuhkien, and the quiet people emigrate in large num bers to the Indian Archipelago or to other provinces. The later Gazettes contain still more dreadful accounts of the contests of the clans, and the great loss of life and property resulting from their forays, no less than one hundred and twenty villages having been attacked, and thousands of people killed. These battles are constantly occurring, and the authorities feeling themselves too weak to put them down, are obliged to connive at them, and let the clans fight it out. DI will is kept up between the clans, and private revenges gratified, by every personal annoyance that malice can suggest or opportunity tempt. If an unfortunate individual of one clan is met alone by his enemy, he is sure to be robbed or beaten, or both ; the boats or the houses of each party are plundered or burned, and legal redress is almost impossible. Graves are defaced and tombstones injured, and on the annual visit to the family sepulchre perhaps a putrid corpse is met, placed there by the hostile clan ; this insult arouses all their ire, and they vow deadly revenge. The villagers sally out with such arms as they possess, and death and wounds are almost sure to result before they separate. In Shunteh (a district between Canton and Macao), upwards of a thousand men engaged with spears and firearms on one of these occasions, and thirty-six lives were lost ; the military were called in to quell the riot. In Tungkwan dis trict, near the Bogue, thirty-six ringleaders were apprehended, and in 1831, it was reported that four hundred persons had been killed in these raids ; only twenty-seven of their kindred appealed to government for redress. When complaint is made to the prefect or governor, and inves tigation becomes inevitable, the villagers have a provision to meet the exigencies of the case, which puts the burden of the charges as equally as possible upon the whole clan. A bxond of " devoted men " are found, — persons who volunteer to assume such crimes and run their chance for life — whose names are kept on a list, and they come forward and surrender themselves to government as the guilty persons. On the trial, their friends employ wit nesses to prove it a justifiable homicide, and magnify the provoca tion, and if there are several brought on the stand at once, they try to get some of them clear by proving an alibi. It not unfre quently happens that the accused are acquitted, and not very often EVILS OF THE FEUDS BETWEEN CLANS. 387 that they are executed ; transportation or fine is the usual result. The inducement for persons to run this risk of their lives, is security from the clan of a maintenance for their families in case of death, and a reward sometimes as high as $300 in land or money when they return. This sum is raised by taxing the clan or village, and the imposition falls heavily on the poorer portion of it, who can neither avoid nor easily pay it. This system of substitution pervades all parts of society, and for all misdemeanors. A person was strangled in Macao in 1838, for having been engaged in the opium trade, who had been hired by the real criminal to answer to his name ; it is not known what sum was paid him. Another mode of escape, sometimes tried in such cases when the person has been condemned, is to bribe the jailers to report him dead, and carry out his body in a coffin ; but this device probably does not often answer the end, as the turn keys require a larger bribe than can be raised. There can be little doubt of the prevalence of the practice in all parts of China, and for crimes of even minor penalty. To increase the social evils of clanship and systematized thieving, local tyrants occasionally spring up, persons who rob and maltreat the villagers by means of their armed retainers, who are in most cases, doubtless, members of the same clan. One of these tyrants, named Yeh, or Leaf, became quite notorious in the district of Tungkwan, near the Bogue, about fifteen years since, setting at defiance all the power of the local authorities ; and sending out his men to plunder and ravage whoever resisted his demands, destroying their graves and grain, and particularly molesting those who would not deliver up their wives or daugh ters to gratify him. He was arrested in an underhand way by the district magistrate at Canton leaving his office, and inducing him for old acquaintance sake to return with him to the provin cial city ; he was there tried and executed by the lieutenant- governor, although it was at the time reported that the Board of Punishments endeavored to save his life, because he had been in office at the capital. In order that no attempt should be made to rescue him, he was left in ignorance of his sentence, until he was put into the sedan to be carried to execution. Clannish banditti often supply themselves with firearms, and prowling the country to revenge themselves on their enemies, soon proceed to pillage every one ; the government is sometimes 388 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. obliged to resort to contemptible subterfuges in disarming them, which conspicuously show its weakness, and encourages a repe tition of the evil. Parties of poor persons, who call themselves guests, are often seen squatting on the vacant places along the shores, away from the villages, and forming small clannish com munities ; as soon as they increase, occupying more and more of the land, they begin to commit petty depredations upon the crops of the inhabitants, and demand money for the privilege of burying upon the unoccupied ground around them. The govern ment are generally unwilling to drive them off by force, because there is the alternative of making them robbers thereby, and they are invited to settle in other waste lands, which they can have free of taxation, and leave those they have cultivated, if strictly private property. This practice shows the populousness of the country in a conspicuous manner. To these evils must be also added the large bodies of floating banditti or dacoits, who rove up and down all the water-courses " like sneaking rats," and pounce upon defenceless boats. Hardly a river or estuary in the land is free from these miscreants, and lives and property are annually destroyed by them to a very great amount, especi ally on the Yangtsz' kiang, the Pearl river, and other great thoroughfares. The popular associations in cities and towns are chiefly based upon a community of interests, resulting either from a similarity of occupation, when the leading persons of the same calling form themselves into guilds, or from the municipal regulations requiring the householders living in the same street to unite to maintain a police, and keep the peace of their division. Each guild has an assembly-hall, where its members meet to hold the festival of their patron saint, to collect and appropriate the sub scriptions of the members, and settle the rent or storage on the rooms and goods in the hall, to discuss all public matters as well as the good cheer they get on such occasions, and to confer with other guilds. The members often go to a great expense in emu lating each other in their processions, and some rivalry exists regarding their rights, over which the government keeps a watch ful eye, for all popular assemblies are its horror. The shop keepers and householders in the same street are required to have a headman, to superintend the police, watchmen, and beg gars within his limits. The rulers are sometimes thwarted in POPULAR AND MUNICIPAL ASSOCIATIONS. 389 their designs by both these forms of popular assemblies, and they no doubt tend in many ways to keep up a degree of independence and of mutual acquaintance, which compels the respect of the government. The governor of Canton endeavored to search all the shops in a particular street in the city in 1838 to ascertain if there was opium in them ; but the shopmen came in a body at the head of the street, and told the policemen that they would on no account permit their shops to be searched, and the governor deemed it best to retire. Those who will not join or agree to what the majority orders in these bodies, occasionally experience petty tyranny, but in a city this must be comparatively trifling. Several of the leading men in the city are known to hold meet- ' ings for consultation in still more popular assemblies for different reasons of a public and pressing nature. There is a building at Canton called the Ming-lun Tang, or Free Discussion Hall, where political matters are discussed under the knowledge of government, which rather tries to mould than put them down, for the assistance of such bodies, rightly managed, in carrying out their intentions, is considerable, while discontent would be roused if they, were forcibly suppressed. In Oct. 1842, meetings were held in this hall, at one of which a public manifesto was issued, here quoted entire as a specimen of the public appeals of Chinese politicians and demagogues. " We have been reverently consulting upon the empire — a vast and undivided whole ! How can we permit it to be severed in order to give it to others ! Yet we, the rustic people, can learn to practise a rude loyalty ; we too know to destroy the banditti, and thus requite his majesty. Our Great Pure dynasty has cared for this country for more than two hundred years, during which a succession of distinguished monarchs, sage succeeding sage, has reigned ; and we who eat the herb of the field, and tread the soil, have for ages drank in the dew of imperial good ness, and been imbued with its benevolence. The people in wilds far remote beyond our influence, have also felt this goodness, comparable to the heavens for height, and been upheld by this bounty, like the earth for thickness. Wherefore peace being now settled in the country, ships of all lands come, distant though they be from this for many a myriad of miles; and of all the foreigners on the south and west there is not, one but what enjoys the highest peace and contentment, and entertains the profoundest respect and submission. " But there is that English nation : whose ruler is now a woman and then a man, its people at one time like birds and then like beasts, with 390 THE MIDDLE, KINGDOM. dispositions more fierce and furious than the tiger or wolf, and hearts more greedy than the snake or hog, — this people has ever stealthily devoured all the southern barbarians, and like tbe demon of the night they now suddenly exalt themselves. During the reigns of Kienlung and Kiaking, these English barbarians humbly besought entrance and permission to make a present ; they also presumptuously requested to have Chusan, but those divine personages, clearly perceiving their trai torous designs, gave them a peremptory refusal. From that time, link ing themselves in with traitorous traders, they have privily dwelt at Macao, trading largely in opium and poisoning our brave people. They have ruined lives, — how many millions none can tell ; and wasted pro perty — how many thousands of millions who can guess ! They have dared again and again to murder Chinese, and have secreted the murder ers, whom they have refused to deliver up, at which the hearts of all men grieved and their heads ached. Thus it has been that for many years past, the English by their privily watching for opportunities in the coun try have gradually brought things to the present crisis. "In 1838, our great emperor having fully learned all the crimes of the English, and the poisonous effects of opium, quickly, wished to restore the good condition of the country and compassionate the people. In con sequence of the memorial of Hwang Tsiohsz', and in accordance to his request, he specially deputed the public minded, upright, and clearheaded minister Lin Tsehsu, to act as his imperial commissioner with plenipoten tiary powers, and go to Canton to examine and regulate. He came and took all the stored up opium and stopped the trade, in order to cleanse the stream and cut off the fountain ; kindness was mixed with his severi ty, and virtue was evident in his laws, yet still the English repented not of their errors, and as the climax of their contumacy called troops to their aid. The censor Hwang, by advising peace, threw down the bar riers, and bands of audacious robbers, willingly did all kinds of disrepu table and villainous deeds. During the past three years, these rebels, depending upon their stout ships and effective cannon, from Canton went to Fuhkien, thence to Chehkiang, and on to Kiangsu, seizing our terri tory, destroying our civil and military authorities, ravishing our women, capturing our property, and bringing upon the inhabitants of tliese four provinces intolerable miseries. His imperial majesty was troubled and afflicted, and this added to his grief and anxiety. If you wish to purify their crimes, all the fuel in the empire will not suffice, nor would the vast ocean be enough to wash out our resentment. Gods and men are alike filled with indignation, and heaven and earth cannot permit them to remain. " Recently, those who have had the management of affairs in Kiang nan have been imitating those who were in Canton, and at the gates of the city they have willingly made an agreement, peeling oft' the fat MANIFESTO ISSUED AGAINST THE ENGLISH. 391 of the people to the tune of hundreds of myriads, and all to save the precious lives of one or two useless officers ; in doing which they have exactly verified what chancellor Kin Yinglin had before memorialized. Now these English rebels are barbarians dwelling in a petty island beyond our domains ; yet their coming throws myriads of miles of coun try into turmoil, while their numbers do not exceed a few myriads. What can be easier than for our celestial dynasty to exert its fullness of power, and exterminate these contemptible sea-going imps, just as the blast bends the pliant bamboo ! But our highest officers and ministers cherish their precious lives, and civil and military men both dread a dog as they would a tiger ; regardless of the enemies of their country or the griefs of the people, they have actually sundered the empire and granted its wealth ; acts more flagitious these than those of the traitors in the days of the Southern Sung dynasty, and the reasons for which are wholly beyond our comprehension. These English barbarians are at bottom without ability, and yet we have all along seen in the memorials that officers exalt and dilate upon their prowess and obstinacy; our people are courageous and enthusiastic, but the officers on the contrary say that they are dispirited and scattered : this is for no other reason than to coerce our prince to make peace, and then they will luckily avoid the penalty due for ' deceiving the prince and betraying the country.' Do you doubt ? Then look at the memorial of chancellor Kin Yinglin which says, ' They take the occasion of war to seek for self-aggrandize ment ;' every word of which directly points at such conduct as this. " We have recently read in his majesty's lucid mandate, that, ' There is no other way, and what is requested must be granted ;' and that, ' We have conferred extraordinary powers upon the ministers, and they have done nothing but deceive us.' Looking up we perceive his majesty's clear discrimination and divine perception, and that he was fully aware of the imbecility of his ministers ; he remembers too the loyal anger of his people. He has accordingly now temporarily settled all the present difficulties, but it is that, having matured his plans, he may hereafter manifest his indignation, and show to the empire that it had not fathomed the divine awe-inspiring counsels. " The dispositions of these rebellious English are like that of the dog or sheep, whose desires can never be satisfied; and therefore we need not inquire whether the peace now made be real or pretended. Remem ber that when they last year made disturbance at Canton, they seized the Square fort, and thereupon exhibited their audacity, everywhere plun dering and ravishing. If it had not been that the patriotic inhabitants dwelling in Hwaitsing and other hamlets, and those in Shingping, had not killed their leader ancl destroyed their devilish soldiers, they would have scrupled at nothing, taking and pillaging the city, and then firing it in order to gratify their vengeance and greediness : can we imagine 392 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. , that for the paltry sura of six millions of dollars they would, as they did, have raised the seige and retired ? How to be regretted ! That when the fish was in the frying-pan, the Kwangchau fu should come and pull away the firewood, let loose the tiger to return to the mountains, and disarm the people's indignation. Letting the enemy thus escape on one occasion has successively brought misery upon many provinces : when ever we speak of it, it wounds the heart, and causes the tears to flow. " Last year when the treaty of peace was made, it was agreed that the English should withdraw from beyond Lankeet, that they should give back the forts near there, and dwell temporarily at Hongkong, and that thenceforth all military operations were for ever to cease : who would have supposed that before the time stipulated had passed away, they would have turned their backs upon this agreement, taken violent pos session of the forts at the Bogue with their ' wooden dragons ' (i. e. ships of war), — and when they came upon the gates of the City of Rams with their powerful forces, who was there to oppose them ? During these three years, we have not been able to restore things as at first, and their deceptive craftiness then confined to these regions has rapidly extended itself to Kiangnan. But our high and mighty emperor, preemi nently intelligent and discerning (IU. grasping the golden mirror and holding the gemmeous balances), consents to demean himself to adopt soothing counsels of peace, and therefore submissively accords with the decrees of heaven. Having a suspicion that these outlandish people intended to incroach upon us, he has secretly arranged all things. We have respectfully read through all his majesty's mandates, and tbey are as clearsighted as the sun and moon ; but those who now manage affairs, are like one who supposing the raging fire to be under, puts himself as much at ease as swallows in a court ; but who, if the calamity suddenly reappears, would be as defenceless as a grampus in a fishmarket. The law adjudges the penalty of death for betraying the country, but how can even death atone for their crimes ? Those persons who have been handed down to succeeding ages with honor, and those whose memories have been execrated, are but little apart on the page of righteous history ; let our rulers but remember this, and we think they also must exert themselves to recover their characters. We people have had our day in times of great peace, and this age is one of abundant prosperity; scholars are devising how to recompense the kindness of the govern ment, nor can husbandmen think of forgetting his majesty's exertions for them. Our indignation was early excited to join battle with the enemy, and we then all urged one another to the firmest loyalty. " We have heard the English intend to come into Pearl river and make a settlement ; this will not, however stop at Chinese and foreign ers merely dwelling together, for men and beasts cannot endure each other ; it will be like opening the door and bowing in the thief, or setting MANIFESTO ISSUED AGAINST THE ENGLISH. 393 the gate ajar and letting the wolf in. While they were kept outside, there were many traitors within ; how much more, when they incroach even to our bedsides, will our troubles be augmented ? We cannot help fearing it will eventuate in something strange, which words will be in sufficient to express. If the rulers of other states wish to imitate the English, with what can their demands be waived ? Consequently, the unreasonable demands of the English are going to bring great calamity upon the people, and deep sorrow to the country. If we do not permit them to dwell with us under the same heaven, our spirits will feel no shame ; but if we willingly consent to live with them, we may in truth be deemed insensate. " We have reverently read in the imperial mandate, ' There must in deed be some persons among the people of extraordinary wisdom or bravery, who can stir them up to loyalty and patriotism, or unite them in self-defence ; some who can assist the government and army to recover the cities, or else defend passes of importance against the robbers ; some who can attack and burn their vessels, or seize and bring the heads of their doltish leaders ; or else some with divine prescience and wisdom, who can disclose all their silly counsels, and get to themselves a name of surpassing merit and ability, and receive the highest rewards. We can confer, &c, Sic' We, the people having received the imperial words, have united ourselves together as troops, and practise the plan of joining hamlets and villages till we have upwards of a million of troops, whom we have provisioned according to the scale of estimating the produce of respective farms ; and now we are fully ready and quite at ease as to the result. If nothing calls us, then each one will return to his own occupation ; but if the summons come, joining our strength in force, we will incite each other to effort ; our brave sons and brothers are all animated to deeds of arms, and even our wives and daughters, finical and delicate as jewels, have learned to discourse of arms. At first, alas, those who guarded the passes were at ease and careless, and the robbers came unbidden and undesired; but now [if they come], we have only zealously to appoint each other to stations, and suppress the rising of the waves to the stillest calm (i. e. to exterminate them). When the golden pool is fully restored to peace, and his majesty's anxiety for the south relieved ; when leviathan has been driven away, then will our anger, comparable to the broad ocean and high heavens, be pacified.' Ah ! We here bind ourselves to vengeance, and express these our sincere intentions in order to exhibit great principles ; and also to mani fest heaven's retribution and rejoice men's hearts, we now issue this patriotic declaration. The high gods clearly behold : do not lose your first resolution." — Chi. Rep., Vol. xi., p. 630. This spirited paper was subsequently answered by the party 18* 394 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. desirous of peace, but the anti-English feeling prevailed, and the committee appointed by the meeting, set the English consulate on fire a few days after, to prevent it being occupied. The many secret associations existing among ihe people are mostly of a political character, but have creeds like religious sects, and differ slightly in their tenets and objects of worship. They are traceable to the system of clans, which giving the people at once the habit and spirit for associations, are easily made use of by clever men, for their own purposes of opposition to government. Similar grievances, as local oppression, hatred of the Manchus, or hope of advantage, add to their numbers and strength, and were they founded on a full acquaintance with the grounds of a just resistance to despotism, they would soon overturn the government ; but as out of an adder's egg only a cockatrice can be hatched, so until the people are enlightened with regard to their just rights, no permanent melioration can be expected. It is against that leading feature in the Manchu policy, isolation, that these societies sin, which further prompts to the systematic efforts of the present dynasty to suppress them. The only objection the supreme government seem to have against the religion of the people, is that it brings them together ; they may be Budhists, Rationalists, Jews, Mohammedans, or Chris tians, apparently, if they will worship in sscret and apart. On the other hand, the people being excluded from the state religion, naturally connect religion with opposition to the state, and base the latter upon superstitions and secret rites, which will more securely bind them together. The name of the most powerful of these associations is men tioned in Sect, clxii. of the Code for the purpose of interdicting it ; since then it has apparently changed its designation from the Pih-lien, Mau or Water-lily sect, to the Tien-ti hwui or San-hoh hwui, i. e. Triad society, though both names still exist; the former in the northern, the latter in the maritime provinces, and Indian Archipelago ; and their ramifications take also other appellations. The object of these combinations is to overturn the reigning dynasty, and in putting this prominently forward they engage many to join them. About the beginning of the century, a wide spread rebellion broke out in the north-western and middle provinces, which was put down after eight years' war, attended with desolation and bloodshed ; since that time the Water-lily SECRET SOCIETIES AND THEIR INFLUENCE. 395 sect has not been so often spoken of. The Triad Society has extended itself along the coasts, but it is not popular, owing more than anything else to its illegality, and the intimidation and oppres sion employed towards those who will not join it. The members have secret regulations and signs, and uphold and assist each other both in good and bad acts, but as might be inferred from their character, screening evil doers from just punishment oftener than relieving distressed members. The original designs of the association may have been good, but what was allowable in them, soon degenerated into a systematic plan for plunder and aim at power. The English government of Hongkong, enacted in 1845, that any Chinese living in that colony who was ascertained to belong to the Triad society, should be declared guilty of felony, be imprisoned for three years, and after branding expelled the colony. These associations, if they cause the government much trouble by interfering with its operations, in no little degree, through the overbearing conduct of the leaders, uphold it by show ing the people what may be expected if they should ever get the upper hand. The evils of mal-administration are to be learned chiefly from the memorials of censors, and although they m8y color their statements a little, very gross inaccuracies would be availed of to their own disadvantage, and contradicted by so many compe titors, that most of their statements may be regarded as having some foundation. An unknown person in Kwangtung memo rialized the emperor in 1S38 concerning the condition of that province, and drew a picture of the 0x10111003 of the lower agents of government that needs no illustrations to deepen its darkness,. or add force to its complaints. An extract from each of the six heads into which the memorial is divide'd, will indicate the prin cipal sources of popular insurrection in China, besides the exhibition they give of the tyranny of the officers. In his preface, after the usual laudation of the beneficence -and popularity of the monarch, the memorialist proceeds to express his regret that the imperial desires for the welfare of his subjects should be so grievously thwarted by the villainy of his officers. After mentioning the calamities which had come upon the province in the shape of freshets, insurrections, and conflagra tions, he says that affairs generally had become so bad as to compel his majesty to send commissioners to Canton repeatedly 396 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. in order to regulate them. " If such as this be indeed the state of things,''" he inquires, " what wonder is it if habits of plunder characterize the people ; or the clerks and under-officers of the public courts, as well as village pettifoggers, lay themselves out on all occasions, to stir up quarrels and instigate false accusa tions against the good ?" He recommends reform in six depart ments, under each of which he thus specifies the evils to be remedied. First. — In the department of police, there is great negligence, and delay in the decision of judicial cases. Cases of plunder are very common, most of which are committed by banditti, under the designations of Triad societies, Heaven and Earth brotherhoods, &c. These men carry off persons to extort a ransom, falsely assume the character of policemen, and in simu lated revenue-cutters pass up and down the rivers, plundering the boats of travellers, and forcibly carrying off the women. Husbandmen are obliged to pay these robbers an " indemnity," or else as soon as the crops are ripe, they come and carry off the whole harvest. In the precincts of the metropolis, where their contiguity to the tribunals prevents their committing violent depredations in open day, they set fire to houses during the night, and under the pretence of saving and defending the persons and property, carry off both of them : hence, of late years, calami tous fires have increased in frequency, and the bands of robbers multiplied greatly. In cases of altercations among the villagers, who can only use their local patois, it rests entirely with the clerks to interpret the evidence ; and when the magistrate is lax or pressed with business, they have the evidence pre-arranged, and join with bullies and strife-makers to subvert right and wrong, fattening themselves upon bribes extorted under the names of " memoranda of complaints," " purchases of replies," &c, and retarding indefinitely the decision of cases. They also instigate thieves to bring false accusations against the good, who are thereby ruined by legal expenses. While the officers of the government and the people are thus separated, how can it be otherwise than that appeals to the higher tribunals should be increased, and litigation and strife.prevail 1 Second. — Magistrates overrate the taxes with a view to a deduction for their own benefit, and excise officers connive at non-payment. The revenue of Kwangtung is paid entirely in MODES AND RESULTS OF OFFICIAL OPPRESSION. 397 money, and the magistrates instead of taking the commutation at a regular price of about $5 for 150 lbs. of rice, have compelled the people to pay f 9 and over, because the inundation and bad harvests had raised the price of grain. In order to avoid this extortion, the police go to the villagers, and demand a douceur, when they will get them off from all payment. But the imperial coffers are not filled by this means, and the people are by and by forced to pay up their arrearages, even to the loss of most of their possessions. Third. — There is great mismanagement of the granaries, and instead of being any assistance to the people in times of scarcity, they are only a source of peculation for those who are charged with their oversight. Fourth. — The condition of the. army and navy is a disgrace, illicit traffic is not prevented, nor can insurrections be put down. The only care of the officers is to obtain good appointments, and reduce the actual number of soldiers below the register, in order that they may appropriate the stores. The cruisers aim only to get fees to allow tho prosecution of the contraband traffic, nor will the naval officers bestir themselves to recover the property of plundered boats, but rather become the protectors of the law less and partakers of their booty. Robberies are so common on the rivers, that tho traders from the island of Hainan, and Chau- chau near Fuhkien, prefer to come by sea, but the revenue cutters overhaul them under pretence of searching for contraband articles, and practise many extortions. Fifth. — The monopoly of salt needs to be guarded more strictly, and tho private manufacture of salt stopped, for thereby the revenue from this source is materially diminished. Sixth. — The increase of smuggling is so great, and the evils flowing from it so multiplied, that strong measures must be taken to repress it. Traitorous Chinese combine with depraved foreign ers to set the laws at defiance, and dispose of their opium and other commodities for the pure silver. In this manner, the country is impoverished and every evil arises, the revenues of the customs are diminished by the unnecessary number of per sons employed, and by the fees they receive for connivance. If all theso abuses can be remedied, " it will be seen that when there are men to rule well, nothing can be found beyond the reach of their government." 398 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. The chief efforts of the officers are directed to put down ban ditti, and maintain such a degree of peace as will enable them to collect the revenue, and secure the people in the quiet posses sion of their property ; but the lawless disposition of the people themselves acting against the illegal demands of the rulers, brings into operation a constant struggle of opposing desires ; the peo ple get into the habit of resisting even the proper requisitions of the officers, who, on their part, endeavor in every way to reim burse their outlay in bribes to their superiors ; and the combined action of the two proves an insurmountable impediment to the at- tainmeut of even that degree of security a Chinese officer wishes. The general commission of robbery and dacoitv. and the preva lence of bands of thieves, therefore proves the weakness of the government, not the insurrectionary disposition of the people. In one district of Hupeh, the governor reported in 1828, ''that very few of the inhabitants have any regular occupation, and their dispositions are exceedingly ferocious; thev fight and kill each other on every provocation. Iu their villages they harbor thieves, who flee from other districts, and sally forth again to plunder." In the northern parts of Kwangtung, the people have erected high and strongly built houses to which they flee for safety from the attacks of robbers. These bands sometimes fall upon each other, and the feudal animosities of clanship adding fuel and rage to the rivalry of partisan warfare, the destruction of life and property is great. Occasionally the people zealously assist their rulers to apprehend them, though their exertions de pend altogether upon the energy of the incumbent ; an officer in Fuhkien is recommended for promotion because he had appre hended 173 persons, part of a band of robbers which had infested the department for years, and tried and convicted 1160 criminals, most or all of whom were probably executed. In 1821, there were four hundred robbers taken on the borders of Fuhkien; in 1627, two hundred were seized in the south of the province, and forty-one more brought to Canton from the eastward. The governor offered $1000 reward, in 1828, for the capture of one leader, and $3,000 for another. The judge of the province put forth a proclamation upon the subject in the same year, in which he says there were four hundred and thirty undecided cases of robbery by brigands then on the calendar ; and in 1846, there were upwards of two thousand waiting his PREVALENCE OF BANDITTI. 399 decision, for each of which there were perhaps five or six per sons waiting in prison or under constraint until the case was set tled. These bands prowl in the large cities, and commit great cruelties. In 1330, a party of five hundred openly plundered a rich man's house in the western suburbs of Canton ; and in Shunteb, south of the city, 8000 were paid for the ransom of two persons carried off by them. The ex-governor, in 1831, was attacked by them near the Mei ling pass on his departure from Canton, and plundered of about ten thousand dollars. The magistrates of Hiangshan district, south of Canton, were ordered by their superiors the same year to apprehend five hundred of the robbers. Priests sometimes harbor gangs in their temples, and divide the spoils with them, and occasionally go out them selves on predatory excursions. No rnercy is shown these mis creants when they ai-e taken, but the multiplication of executions has no effect in deterring them from crime. Cruelty to individual prisoners does not produce so much dis turbance to the general peace of the community as the forcible attempts of officers to collect taxes. Tho people have the im pression that their rulers exact more than is legal, and conse quently consider opposition to the demands of the tax-gatherer as (somewhat justifiable, which compels, of course, more stringent measures on the part of the authorities, whose station depends not a little on their punctuality in remitting the taxes. Bad harvests, freshets, or other public calamities, render the people still more disinclined to pay the assessments. In 1845, a serious disturbance arose: near Ningpo on this account, which with un important differences, could probably be paralleled in every department of the provinces. The people of Funghwa hien, having refused to pay an onerous tax, the prefect of Ningpo, seized three literary men of the place, who had been deputed to collect it, and put thern in prison ; this procedure so irritated the gentry that the candidates at the literary examination which occurred at Funghwa soon afterwards, on being assembled at the public hall before the chihien, rose upon him and beat him severely. They were still further incensed against him from having recently detected him in deceitful conduct regarding a petition they had made at court to have their taxes lightened ; he had kept the answer, and pocketed the difference. He was consequently superseded by another magistrate, and a deputy of 400 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. the intendant of circuit was sent with the new incumbent to restore order. But the deputy, full of his importance, carried himself so haughtily, that the excited populace treated him in the same manner, and he narrowly escaped to Ningpo with his life. The intendant and prefect, finding matters rising to such a pitch, sent a detachment of twelve hundred troops to restore order, but part of these were decoyed within the walls and attacked with such vigor, that many of them were made prison ers, a colonel and a dozen privates killed, and two or three hun dred wounded or beaten, and all deprived of their arms. In this plight they returned to Ningpo, and as the distance is not great, apprehensions were entertained lest the insurgents should follow up their advantage by organizing themselves, and marching upon the city to seize the prefect. The officers sent immediately to Hangchau for assistance, from whence the lieutenant-governor sent a strong force of ten thousand men to restore order, and soon after arrived himself. He demanded three persons to be given up, who had been active in fomenting the resistance, threatening in case of non-compliance that he would destroy the town ; the prefect and his deputy from the intendant's office were suspended, and removed to another post. These measures restored quiet to a considerable extent.* The existence of such evils in Chinese society would rapidly disorganize it, if it was not for the conservative influence of early education and training in industry, which forms a public opinion in favor of good order, and a basis of action on the part of the government, of which it can avail. But this, and ten thousand similar instances, only exhibit more strongly how great a work there is to be done before the Chinese will understand their own rights ; before they will, on the one hand, pay that regard to the authority of their rulers which is necessary for the maintenance of good order, and on the other, resist official tyranny in preserv ing their own liberties. Nothing but the Gospel is able to do this ; and the leaven of Christian principles will, it is to be hoped, diffuse itself through the mass when once the people perceive their tendency. Chinese society is like a stagnant pool ferment ing in its own feculence, whose torpor is disturbed by the mon strous things its own heat brings forth, and becoming more * Missionary Chronicle, Vol. XIV., page 110. Smith's China, page 250. CHARACTER OF JUDICIAL PROCEEDINGS. 4C1 end more polluted, casting up mire and dirt, by its own internal commotions : and until the river, whose streams maketh glad the city of God, shall flow through this rotting marsh, there is no hope of any permanent improvement, — the clear waters of peace, good order, purity, and liberty, flow from no other fountain than the Gospel . If the character of officers, therefore, be such as has been briefly shown, — open to bribery, colluding with criminals, syco phantic towards superiors, and cruel to the people ; and the con stituents of society present so many repulsive features, — opposing clans engaged in deadly feuds, bandits scouring the country to rob, policemen joining to oppress, truth universally disregarded, selfishness the main principle of action, and almost every disor ganizing element but imperfectly restrained from violent out breaks and convulsions : it will not be expected that the regular proceedings of the courts, and the execution of the laws, will prove on examination to be any better than the materials of which they are composed. As all cases, both civil and criminal, are judged by one officer, there is but one court to try nearly all the questions which may arise. A single exception is provided for in the Code, wherein it is ordered " that in all cases of adultery, robbery, fraud, assaults, breach of taws concerning marriage, landed property or pecuniary contracts, or any other like offences, committed by or against individuals in the military class ; if any of the people are implicated or concerned, the military com manding officer and the civil magistrate shall have a concurrent jurisdiction." At the bottom of the judicial scale are the village elders, who probably settle a large proportion of the disputes among the people, but the Code provides that all persons having complaints and informations address themselves in the first instance to the lowest tribunal of justice in the district, from which the cogni zance of the affair may be transferred to the superior tribunals. The statement of the case is made in writing, and the officer is required to act upon it immediately ; if the parties are dissatis fied with the award, the judgments of the lower courts are car ried up with the case to the superior ones. No cases can be carried directly to the emperor, but they must go through the Board of Punishments ; old men and women, however, sometimes present petitions to him on his journeys, but such cases seldom 402 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. occur, owing to the difficulty of access. The captains in charge of the gates of Peking, in 1831, presented a memorial upon the subject, in which they attribute the number of appeals to the obstinacy of many persons in pressing their cases and the remiss ness of local officers, so that even women and girls of ten years of age take long journeys to Peking to state their cases. The memorialists recommend that an order be issued requiring the two high provincial officers to adjudicate all cases, either them selves or by a court of errors, and not send the complainants back to the district magistrates. These official porters must have been much troubled with young ladies coming to see his majesty, or perhaps were advised to present such a paper to afford a text for the emperor to preach from ; for, to confer such power upon the governor and his associates, would almost make them the irresponsible sovereigns of the provinces. Appeals frequently arise out of delay in obtaining justice, owing to the amount of business in the courts ; for the calender may be expected to increase when the magistrate leaves his post to curry favor with his superiors. The almost utter impossibility of learning the truth of the case brought before them, either from the principal parties or the witnesses, must be borne in mind when deciding upon the oppressive proceedings of the magistrates to elicit the truth. Mention is made of one officer being promoted for deciding three hundred cases in a year ; and another, a dis trict magistrate, had tried upwards of a thousand within the same period ; while a third revised and decided more than six hundred in which the parties had appealed. What becomes of the appeals in such cases, or whose decision stands, does not appear ; but if such proceedings are common, it accounts for the constant practice of sending appeals back to be revised, probably after a change in the incumbent. Few or no civil cases are reported in the Gazettes as being carried up to higher courts, and it is likely that only a small proportion of them are brought before the authorities, the rest being settled by reference. Appeals to court receive attention, and it may be inferred, too, that many of them are mentioned in the Gazette, in order that the carefulness of the supreme govern ment in revising the unjust decrees against the people should be known through the country, and this additional check to malver sation on the part of the lower courts be of some use. Many cases APPEALS RETURNED TO THE LOWER COURTS. 403 are reported of widows and daughters, sons and nephews, of mur dered persons, to whom the revenge of kindred rightly belongs, appealing against the wicked decrees of the local magistrates, and then sent back to the place they came from, which, of course, was tantamount to a nolle prosequi. At other times, the unjust judges have been degraded and banished. One case is reported of a man who found his way to the capital from Fuhkien to com plain against the magistracy and police, who protected a clan by whom his only son had been shot, in consideration of a bribe of $2,000. His case could not be understood at Peking in conse quence of his local pronunciation, which indicates that all cases are not reported in writing. One appeal is reported against the governor of a province for not carrying into execution the sen tence of death passed on two convicted murderers ; and another appellant requests that two persons, who were bribed to undergo the sentence of the law instead of the real murderers, might not be substituted — he, perhaps, fearing their subsequent vengeance. All officers of government are supposed to be accessible at any time, and the door of justice to be open to all who claim a hear ing ; and in fact, courts are held at all hours of night and day, though the regular time is from sunrise to noonday. The style of address varies according to the rank ; tajin, or magnate, for the highest, la lauye, or great Sir, and lauye, Sir, for the lower grade, are the most common. A drum is said to be placed at the inferior tribunals, as well as before the Court of Representation in Peking, which the plaintiff strikes in order to make his pre sence known, though from the number of hangers-on about the doors of official residences, the necessity of employing this mode of attracting notice is rare. At the gate of the governor's palace are placed six tablets, having appropriate inscriptions for those who have been wronged by wicked officers ; for those who have suffered from thieves ; for persons falsely accused ; for those who have been swindled ; for such as have been grieved by other parties ; and lastly, for those who have secret information to impart. ' The people seldom inscribe their appeals upon these tablets, but draw them out in writing, and carry them up to his excellency ; the same mode is adopted also, when approaching the lieutenant-governor and judge. Magistrates are not allowed to go abroad in ordinary dress, and without their official retinue, which varies for the different 404 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. grades of rank. The usual attendants of the district magistrates consist of lictors with whips and chains, significant of the punish ments they inflict ; they are preceded by two gong-bearers, who every few moments strike a certain number of raps to intimate their master's rank, and by two av ant-couriers who howl out an order for all to make room for the great man. A clerk runs by the side of his sedan, and his secretary and messengers, seated in more ordinary chairs or following on foot, make up the cortege. Mode of carrying high officers in sedan The highest officers are carried by eight bearers, others by four;V and the lowest by two ; this and every other particular being regulated by laws. Lanterns are used at night, and red tablets in the daytime, to show his rank. Officers of higher ranks are attended by a few soldiers in addition. The number and attire of these various attendants are regulated by sumptuary laws. When in court, the officer sjts behind a desk with writing mate rials before him, his secretaries, clerks, and interpreters, being ' in waiting, and the lictors with their instruments of punishment and torture, standing around. Persons who are brought before*- him kneel in front of the tribunal. His official seal, and cups containing tallies which are thrown clown to indicate the number of blows to be given the culprits, stand upon the table, and behind his seat, a kilin or unicorn, is depicted on the wall. There are inscriptions hanging around the room, one of which exhorts him to be merciful. There is little pomp or show, either in the office or attendants, compared with our notions of what is usual in such |i- ii^,;.f.i^|fe'M'i1ii;js STYLE OF OFFICIAL ESTABLISHMENTS. 407 matters among Asiatics. The former is a dirty, unswept, taw dry room, and the latter are beggarly and impertinent. No counsel is allowed to plead, but the written accusations, pleas, or statements required, must be prepared by licensed nota ries, who may also read them in court, and who, no doubt, take opportunity to explain circumstances in favor of their client. These notaries buy their situations, and repay themselves by a fee upon the documents ; they are the only persons in Chinese courts analogous to the lawyers in western countries, and most of them have the reputation of extorting largely for their servi ces. Of course, there is no such thing as a jury, or the chief justice stating the case to his associate judges to learn their opinion ; nor is anything like an oath required of the witnesses. The presiding officer can call in others to assist him in the trial, to any extent he pleases. In one Canton court circular, it is stated that no less than sixteen officers assisted the governor and fuyuen in the trial of one criminal. The report of the trial is as summary as the recital of the bench of judges is minute. " H. E. gov. Tang arrived to join the fuyuen in examining a criminal ; and at 8 a.m., under a salute of guns the doors of the great hall of audience were thrown open, and their excellencies took their seats, supported by all the other functionaries assem bled for the occasion. The police officers of the judge were then directed to bring forward tbe prisoner -Yeh Ashun, a native of Tsingyuen hien ; he was forthwith brought in, tried, and led out. The fuyuen then requested the imperial death-warrant, and sent a deputation of officers to conduct the criminal to the market-place, and there decapitate him. Soon after the officers returned, restored the death-warrant to its place, and reported that they had executed the criminal." The prisoner, or his friends for him, are allowed to appear in every step of the in quiry prior to laying the case before the emperor, and punish ment is threatened to all the magistrates through whose hands it passes if they neglect the appeal ; but this extract shows the practice of the courts. The general policy of officers is to quash cases and repress appeals, and probably they do so to a great degree, by bringing extorted confession of the accused party and the witnesses in proof of the verdict. Governor Li of Canton issued a prohibition in 1834, against old men and women presenting petitions, com- 408 THE MIDDLE kingdom. plaining of the nuisance of having his chair stopped in order to force a petition into it, and threatening to seize and punish the presumptuous intruders if they persisted in it. He instructs the district magistrates to examine such persons, to ascertain who pushed them forward, and punish the instigators, observing, " if the people are impressed with a due dread of punishment, they will return to respectful habits." It seems to be the constant effort on the part of the officers to evade the importunities of the injured, and shove by justice, and were it not owing to the per severance of the people, a system of irremediable oppression would soon be induced. But the poor have little chance of being heard against the rich, and if they do appeal, they are in most cases remanded to the second judgment of the very officer against whom they complain ; and of course as this is equivalent to a refu sal from the high grades to right them at all, commotions gradu- ally grow out of it, which are managed according to the exigen cies of the case by those who are likely to be involved in their responsibility. The want of an irresistible police to compel obedience curbs the oppression of the rulers, knowing as they do that Lynch law may perhaps be retaliated upon them, if they exasperate the people too far. Amidst such enormities, it is no wonder if the peaceably disposed part of the community prefer to submit in silence to petty extortions and robberies, than risk the loss of all by unavailing complaints. The Code contains many sections regulating the proceedings of courts, and provides heavy punishments for such officers as are guilty of illegalities or cruelty in their decisions, but the re corded cases prove that most of these laws are dead letters. Section ccccxvi. ordains " that after a prisoner has been tried and convicted of any offence punishable with temporary or perpetual banishment or death, he shall, in the last place, be brought be fore the magistrate, together with his nearest relations and fami ly, and informed of the offence whereof he stands convicted, and of. the sentence intended to be pronounced upon him in conse quence ; their acknowledgment of its justice or protest against its injustice, as the case may be, shall then be taken down in writing : and in every case of their refusing to admit the justioe of the sentence, their protest shall be made the ground of another and more particular investigation." All capital cases are re quired to be reviewed by the highest authorities at the metropo- MODES AND EXTENT OF TORTURE. 409 lis and in the provinces, and a final report of the case and deci sion submitted to the emperor's notice. Section ccccxv. requires that the law be quoted when deciding. The numerous wise and merciful provisions in the Code for the due administration of justice only place the conduct of its authorized executives in a less excusable light, and prove how impossible it is to procure an equitable magistracy by mere legal requirements and penalties. The confusion of the civil and penal laws in the Code, and the union of both functions in the same person, together with the torture and imprisonment employed to elicit a confession, serve as an indication of the state of legislation and jurisprudence. The common sense of a truthful people would revolt against the infliction of torture to get out the true deposition of a witness, and their sense of horror would resist the disgraceful exposure of the cangue for not paying debts. As the want of truth among a people indicates a want of honor, the necessity of more strin gent modes of procedure suggests the practice of torturing ; its application is allowed and restricted by several sections of- the Code, but in China, as elsewhere, it has always been abused. Further investigation is necessary to obtain a complete account of the extent of torture, but the universal dread among the people of coming before courts, and having anything to do with their magistrates, is owing in great measure to the illegal sufferings they endure in court and in prison. Neither imprisonment nor tor ture are ranked among the five punishments, but they cause more deaths, probably, among arrested persons, than all other means. Among the modes of torture employed in court, and reported in the Gazette, are some revolting to humanity, but which of them are legal does not appear. The clauses under Section i. in the Code describe the legal instruments of torture ; they con sist of three boards with proper grooves for compressing the ankles, and five round sticks for squeezing the fingers, to which may be added the bamboo ; besides these no instruments of torture are legally allowed, though other ways of putting the question are so common as to give the impression that some of them at least are sanctioned. Pulling or twisting the ears with roughened fingers, and keeping them in a bent position, while making the prisoner kneel on chains ; or making him kneel for a long time, are among the illegal modes of torture. Striking the lips with sticks until they are nearly jellied, putting 19 410 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. the hands in stocks before or behind the back, suspendiijg the body by the thumbs and fingers, tying the hands to a bar under the knees, so as to bend the body double, and chaining by the neck close to a stone, are resorted to when the prisoner is con tumacious. One magistrate is accused in the Gazette of having fastened up two criminals to boards by nails driven through their palms ; one of them tore his hands loose, and was nailed up again, which caused his death ; using beds of iron, boiling water, red hot spikes, and cutting the tendon Achilles, are also charged against him, but the emperor exonerated him on account of the atrocious character of the criminals. Compelling them to kneel upon pounded glass, sand, and salt mixed together, until the knees become excoriated, or simply kneeling upon chains, is a lighter mode of the same infliction. Mr. Milne mentions seeing a wretch undergoing this torture, his hands tied behind his back to a stake held in its position by two policemen ; if he swerved to relieve the agony of his position, a blow on his head compelled him to resume it. The agonies of the poor creature were evident from his quivering lips, his pallid and senseless countenance, and his tremulous voice imploring relief, which was refused with a cold mocking command, " Suffer or confess." Flogging is one of the five authorized punishments, but it is used more than almost any other means to elicit confession ; the bamboo, rattan, cudgel, and whip, are all employed. When death ensues from these tortures, the magistrate reports that the criminal died of sickness, or hushes it up by bribing his friends, few of whom are ever allowed access within the walls of the prison to see and comfort the sufferers. From , the manner in which such a result is spoken of, it may be inferred that imme diate death, does not often take place from torture. A magistrate in Sz'chuen being abused by a man in court, who also struck the attendants, ordered him to be put into a coffin which happen ed to be near, when suffocation ensued ; he was in consequence dismissed the service, punished one hundred blows, and trans ported three years. One check on outrageous torture is the fear that the report of their cruelty will come to the ears of their superiors, who are usually ready to avail of any mal-admini§tra- tion to get an officer removed, in order to fill the post with tljeir own friends. In this case, as in other parts of Chinese govern ment, the dread of one evil prevents the commission of another. FIVE LEGAL PUNISHMENTS. 411 The five kinds of punishment mentioned in the Code, are, from ten to fifty blows with the lesser bamboo, from fifty to one hundred with the greater, transportation, perpetual banishment, and death, each of them modified in various ways. The small bamboo weighs about 2 lbs., the larger 2f lbs. Public exposure in the kia, or cangue, is considered rather a kind of censure or reprimand than a punishment, and carries no disgrace with it, nor comparatively much bodily suffering, if the person be fed and screened from the. sun. The frame weighs between twenty and thirty pounds, and is so made as to rest upon the shoulders, without chafing the neck, hut so broad as to prevent the person feeding himself. The name, residence, and offence of the delin quent are. written upon it, for the information of every passer by, Mode of exposure in the Cangue. and a policeman is stationed over him to prevent escape. Brand ing is applied to deserters and banished persons. Imprisonment and fines are not regarded as legal punishments, but rather cor rectives ; and flogging, as Le Comte says, " is never wanting, 412 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. there being no condemnation in China without this previous dis position, so that it is unnecessary to mention it in their condem nation ; this being always understood to be their first dish." When a man is arrested, he is effectually prevented from break- . ing loose by putting a chain around his neck, and tying his hands. Most punishments are redeemable by the payment of money, if the criminal" is under fifteen, or over seventy years of age, and a table is given in the Code for the guidance of the magis trate in such cases. An act of grace enables a criminal con demned even to capital punishment to redeem himself, if the offence be not one of wilful malignjty ; but better legislation would have shown the good effects of not making the punishments so severe. It is also ordered in Section xviii, " that any offender under sentence of death for a crime not excluded from the con tingent benefit of an act of grace, who shall have infirm parents or grandparents alive, over seventy years of age, and no other male child over sixteen to support them, shall be recommended to the mercy of his majesty ; and if only condemned to banish ment, shall receive one hundred blows and redeem himself by a fine." Many atrocious laws in the Chinese Code may be forgiven for one such exhibition of regard for the care of decrepid parents. Few governments exhibit such opposing principles of actions as the Chinese : a strange blending of cruelty to prisoners with a maudlin consideration of their condition, and a constant effort to coax the people to obedience, while exercising great oppression upon individuals, are everywhere manifest. Banishment and slavery are punishments for minor official delinquencies, and few officers who live long in the emperor's employ, do not take an involuntary journey to Mongolia, Tur kestan, or elsewhere, in the course of -their lives. The fates and conduct of banished criminals are widely unlike ; some doggedly serve out their time, others try to ingratiate themselves with their masters, in order to alleviate or shorten the time of service, while hundreds contrive to escape and return to their homes, though this subjects them to increased suffering and punishment. Per sons banished for treason are severely dealt with if they return without leave and those convicted of crime in their place of banishment are increasingly punished ; one man was sentenced to be outlawed for an offence at his place of banishment, but see ing that his aged mother had no other support than his labor, the CORRECTION OF MINOR OFFENCES. 413 emperor ordered that a small sum should be paid for her living out of the public treasury. Whipping a man through the streets as a public example to others is frequently practised upon persons detected in robbery, assault, or some other minor offences. The man is manacled, and one policeman goes before him carrying a tablet, on which are written his name, crime, and punishment, accompanied "by another holding- a gong. In some cases, little sticks bearing flags are thrust through his ears as an additional punishment. The officer appointed to oversee the fulfilment of the sentence follows the -executioner, who strikes the criminal with his whip as the rap on the gong denotes that the appoint ed number is not yet complete. Publicly whipping a thief through the streets. Decapitation and strangling are the legal modes of executing criminals, though Ki Kung, the governor-general of Canton, having taken several incendiaries in 1843, who were convicted of firing the city for purposes of plunder, starved them to death in the public squares of the city. The least disgraceful mode of execution is strangulation, which is performed by tying a man to a post, and tightening the cord which goes round his neck, by 414 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. a winch ; the infliction is very speedy, and apparently less painful than hanging. The least crime for which death is awarded, ap. pears to be a third and aggravated theft, and defacing the brand ing inflicted for former offences. Decollation is considered more disgraceful than strangling, owing to the dislike the Chinese have of dissevering the bodies which their parents gave them entire. There are two modes of decapitation, that of simple decollation being considered, again, as less disgraceful than being " cut into ten thousand pieces," as the phrase ling chih has been rendered. The military officer who superintends the execution is attended by a guard, to keep the populace from crowding upon the limits, and prevent resistance on the part of the prisoners. The bodies are given up to the friends, except when the head is exposed in a cage where the crime was committed, as a warning. If no one is present to claim the corpse, it is buried at public expense. The criminals are generally so far exhausted with the tortures and privations they have suffered, that they make no resistance, and submit to their fate without a groan ; — much more, without a dying speech to the spectators. In ordinary cases, the executions are postponed until the autumnal assize, when the emperor re vises and confirms the sentences of the provincial governors; criminals guilty of extraordinary offences, as robbery attended with murder, arson, rape, breaking into fortifications, highway robbery, and piracy ^ may be immediately beheaded without re ference to court, and it is probable that criminals condemned for one or other of these crimes comprise the greater part of the unre- ferred executions in the provinces. It is impossible to ascertain the number of persons executed in China, for the life of a condemned criminal is thought little of; in the court circular it is merely reported, that " the execution of the criminals was completed," without mentioning.their crimes, residences, or names. At the autumnal revises at Peking, the number sentenced is given in the Gazettes ; 935 were sentenced in 1817, of which 133 were from the province of Kwangtung; in 1826, there were 581 ; in 1828, the number was 789, and in the next year, 579 names were marked off, none of whose crimes it is inferrible, are included in the list of offences mentioned above. The condemnations are sent from the capital by express, and the executions take place immediately. Most of the persons condemned in a province are executed in its capital, and to hear MANNER OF PUBLIC EXECUTIONS. 41.5 of the death of a score or more of felons on a single day is no uncommon thing. The trials are more summary than comports with our notions of justice, and tbe executions are performed in the most revolting manner ; brutes could not be slaughtered with more indifference. It is reported on one occasion, that the go vernor of Canton ascended his judgment-seat, examined three prisoners brought before him, and having found them guilty, condemned them, asked himself for the death-warrant (for he temporarily filled the office of lieut. -governor), and having receiv ed it, had the three men carried away to execution in about two hours after they were first brought before him. A few days after, he granted the warrant to execute a hundred bandits in prison. When led out to execution, the prisoners are clothed in new, clean clothes, and persons who commit suicide also dress them selves in their best, under the idea that in the next world they will always wear the same dress they died in. The number of persons annually executed in Kwangtung is reckoned at between one and five hundred, but the data are very incomplete. A mili tary officer is present ; and the criminals are brought on the ground in cages hardly large enough to hold them, and obliged to kneel towards the emperor's residence, or towards the death-war rant, which indicates his presence, as if thanking their sovereign for his care, when with a single stroke, the head is severed from the trunk. In the slow and ignominious execution, or ling chih, the criminal is tied to a post, and hacked to pieces, though the executioner is commonly hired to give the coup-de-grace at the first blow. It is not uncommon for him to cut out the gall-blad der of notorious robbers, and sell it, to be eaten as a specific for courage. There is an official executioner besides the real one, the latter being frequently a criminal taken out of the prisons. Probably the number of persons who suffer by the sword of the executioner is not. one half of those who die from the effects of torture and privations in prison. Not much is known of the internal arrangement of the hells, as prisons are called ; they seem to be managed with a degree of kindness and attention to the com fort of the prisoners, so far as the intentions of government are concerned, but the cruelties of the turnkeys and older prisoners to exact money from the. now comers are terrible. In Canton, there are jails in the. city, under the control of four different officers, 416 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. the iargest covering about an acre, and capable of holding upwards of five hundred prisoners. Since it is the practice of distant magistrates to send their worst prisoners up to the capital, these are not large enough, and jail distempers arise from over crowding ; two hundred deaths were reported in 1826, from this and other causes, and one hundred and seventeen cases in 1831. Private jails were hired to accommodate the number, and one lieut.-governor reports having found twenty-two such places in Canton, where every kind of cruelty was practised. The witnesses and accusers concerned in appellate causes had, he says, also been brought up to the city, and imprisoned along with the guilty party, where they were kept months, without any just reason. In one case, where a defendant and plaintiff were imprisoned together, the accuser fell upon the other and mur dered him. Sometimes the officer is unable from press of business to attend to a case, and confines all the principals and witnesses concerned until he. can examine them, but the govern ment takes no means to provide for them during the interval, and many of the poorer ones die. No bail is obtainable on the word of a witness or his friends, so that if unable to fee the jailers, he is in nearly as bad a case as the criminal. Extend ing bail to an accused criminal is nearly unknown, but female prisoners are put in charge of their husbands or parents, who are held responsible for their appearance. The constant succession of criminals in the provincial head prison, renders the posts of jailers and turnkeys very lucrative. The prisons are arranged somewhat on the plan of. a large stable, having an open central court occupying nearly one fourth of the area, and small cribs or stalls covered by a roof extending nearly around it, so contrived that each company of prisoners shall be separated from each other night and day, though more by night than by day. The prisoners cook for themselves in the court, and are secured by manacles and gyves, and a chain join ing the hands to the neck ; one hand is liberated in the daytime in order to allow them to take care of themselves. Heinous criminals are more heavily ironed, and those in the prison attached to the judge's office are worse treated than the others. Each criminal should receive a daily ration of two pounds of rice, and about two cents to buy fuel, but the jailer starves them on half this allowance if they are unable to fee him ; clothing is also MANAGEMENT OF PRISONS. 417 scantily provided, but those who have money can procure almost every convenience. Each crib full of criminals is under the control of a turnkey, who with a few old offenders spend much time torturing newly arrived persons to force money from them, by which many lose their lives, and all suffer far more than they do from the officers of government. Well may the people call their prisons hells, and say, when a man falls into the clutches of the jailers or police, " the flesh is under the cleaver." There are many processes for the recovery of debts, and ful filment of contracts, some legal and others customary ; the latter depending upon many circumstances irrelevant to the merits of the case. The law allows that debtors be punished by bam- booing according to the amount of the debt. A creditor often resorts to illegal means to recover his claim, which give rise to many excesses ; sometimes he quarters himself upon the debtor's family or premises, at others seizes him or some of his family and keeps them prisoners ; and in extreme cases, sells them. Debtors are liable, when three months have expired after the stipulated time of payment, to be bambooed, and their property attached by government. In most cases, however, disputes of this sort are settled without recourse to government, and if the debtor is really without property, he is not imprisoned till he can procure it. The effects of absconding debtors are seized, and divided by those who can get them. Long experience, moreover, of each other's characters has taught them, in contracting debts to have some security at the outset, and therefore in settling up, there is not so much loss as might be supposed considering the difficulty of collecting debts. Accusations for libel, slander, breach of marriage contract, and other civil or less criminal offences, are not all brought before the authorities, but are settled by force or arbitration among the people themselves and their elders. The nominal salaries of Chinese officers have already been stated (p. 238). It is a common opinion among the people; that on an average they receive about ten times their salaries ; in some cases they pay thirty, forty, and more thousand dollars beforehand for the' situation. One encouragement to the harass ing vexations of the official secretaries and police is the dislike of the people to carry their cases before officers whom they know are almost compelled to fleece and peel them ; they think 19* 418 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. it cheaper and safer to bear a small exaction from an underling than run the risk of a greater from his master. By degrees, much of the money finds its way again into the community, for the last spunge ere long sends it out into circulation in one shape or another. If the preventatives against popular violence which the supreme government has placed around it, could be strengthened by an efficient military force, its power would be well secured, and become, by degrees, an intolerable tyranny. The troops are everywhere present, indeed, ostensibly to support the laws, protect the innocent, and punish the guilty ; but such of them as are employed by the authorities as guards and policemen are rather instruments of oppression than means of protection, while the regiments in garrison are contemptible to both friend and foe. They are not altogether inefficient in maintaining order in case of commotion, for the people know that they must finally submit, yet it is hard to say whether they do not cause more riots than they quell. The efficacy of the system of checks upon the high court and provincial officers is increased by their intrigues and conflicting ambition, and long experience has shown that the emperor's power has little to fear from proconsular rebellion. The ineffi ciency of the army is a serious evil to the people in one respect, for more power in that arm would repress banditti and pirates ; while the sober part of the community would cooperate in a hearty effort to quell them. The greatest difficulty the emperor finds in upholding his authority lies in the general want of inte grity in the officers he employs to carry into effect his ordi nances ; good laws may be made, but he has no upright agenls to execute them. This has been abundantly manifested in the laws against opium and gambling ; no one could be found to carry them into execution, though everybody assented to their propriety. The chief security the people have against an unmitigated oppression, such as now exists in Egypt, besides those already pointed out, lies as much as anywhere in their general intelli gence of the true principles on which the government is founded and should be executed. With public opinion on its side, the government is a strong one, but none is less able to execute its designs when it runs counter to that opinion, although those IMPERFECT ADMINISTRATION OF LAW. 419* designs may be excellent and well-intended. Elements of dis- cord are found in the social system which would soon effect its ruin were they not counteracted by other influences, and the body politic goes on like a heavy, shackly, lumbering van, which every moment threatens a crashing, crumbling fall, yet goes on still tottering, owing to the original goodness of its con struction. From the enormous population of this ancient van, it is evident that any attempt to remodel it must seriously affect one or the other of its parts, and that when once upset, it may be impossible to reconstruct it in its original form. There is encou ragement to hope that the general intelligence and shrewdness of the .government and people of China, their language, institu tions, industry, and love of peace, will all act as powerful con servative influences in working out the changes which cannot now be long delayed ; and that she will maintain her unity and industry while going through a thorough reform of her political, social, and religious systems. It is very difficult to convey to the reader a fair view of the administration of the laws in China. Notwithstanding the cruelty of officers to the criminals before them, they arc not all to be considered as tyrants ; because insurrections arise, attended with great loss of life, it must not be supposed that society is every where disorganized ; the Chinese are so prone to falsify, that it is difficult to ascertain the truth, yet it must not be inferred that every sentence is a lie ; selfishness is a prime motive for their actions, yet charity, kindness, filial affection, and the unbought courtesies of life, still exist among them. Although there is an appaling amount of evil and crime in every shape, it is mixed with some redeeming traits ; and in China, as elsewhere, good and bad are intermingled. Some of the evils in the social system arise from the operation of the principles of mutual responsibility, while this very feature produces some good effects in restraining people who have no higher motive than the fear of injuring the innocent. We hear so much of the shocking cruelties of courts and prisons, that the vast number of cases before the bench are all supposed to exhibit the same fatiguing reiteration of suffering, injustice, bribery and cruelty. One must live in the country to see how the antagonistic . principles found in Chinese society act and react upon each other, and are affected by the wicked pas sions of the heart. Officers, and people are bad almost beyond 420 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. belief to one conversant only with the courtesy, justice, purity, and sincerity of Christian governments and society ; and yet we think they are equal to the old Greeks and Romans, and have no more injustice or torture in their courts, nor impurity or mendacity in their lives. CHAPTER IX. Education and Literary Examinations. Among the conservative influences in the Chinese system, the general diffusion of education and respect paid to literary pursuits, growing out of the mode of obtaining office by literary examina tions, holds an important place. Although the powers of mind exhibited by the greatest writers in China are confessedly inferior to those of Greece and Rome for genius and original conceptions, yet the good influence exerted by them over their countrymen is far greater, even at this day, than was ever obtained by western sages, as Plato, Seneca, or Aristotle. The thoroughness of Chi nese education', the purity and effectiveness of the examinations, or the accuracy and excellency of the literature, must not be compared with those of modern Christian countries, for there is really no common measure between the two ; they must be taken with other parts of Chinese character, and comparisons drawn, if necessary, with nations possessing similar opportunities. The importance of generally instructing the people was acknow ledged even before the time of Confucius, and practised to a good degree at an age when other nations in the world had no such system ; and although in his day feudal institutions prevailed, and offices and rank were not attainable in the same manner as at present, yet magistrates and noblemen deemed it necessary to be well acquainted with their ancient writings. In the Book of Rites is said, " that fof* the purposes of education among the ancients, villages had their schools, districts their academies, departments their colleges, and principalities their universities." This, so far as we know, was altogether superior to what obtained among the Jews, Persians, and Syrians of the same period. The great stimulus to literary pursuits among the people generally is the hope thereby of obtaining office and honor, and the only course of education followed is the classical and historical 422 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. one prescribed by law. Owing to this undue attention to the classics, the minds of the scholars are not symmetrically trained, and they disparage other branches of literature which do not directly advance this great end. Every department of letters, except jurisprudence, history, and official statistics, is disesteemed in comparison ; and the literary graduate of fourscore will be found deficient in most branches of general learning, ignorant of hundreds of common things and events in his national history, which the merest schoolboy in the western world would be ashamed not to know in his. This course of instruction does not form well balanced minds, but it imbues the future rulers of the land with a full understanding of the principles on which they are to govern, and the policy of the supreme power in using those principles to consolidate its own authority. The isolation of the people, the nature of the language, and the want of an aristocracy, combine to add efficiency to this system ; and when the peculiar ities of Chinese character, and the nature of the class-books which do so much to mould that character, are considered, it is impossible to devise a better plan for insuring the perpetuity of the government, or the contentment of the people under that government. It was about a. d. 600, that Taitsung of the Tang dynasty, instituted the present plan of preparing and selecting civilians 9y means of study and degrees, but education has always been highly esteemed, and exerted a dominant influence on the man ners and tastes of the people. According to native historians, the rulers of ancient times made ample provision for the cultiva tion of literature and promotion of education in all its branches. They supply some details to enable us to understand the mode and the materials of this instruction, and glorify it as they do everything ancient, but probably from the want of authentic accounts in their own hands, they do not pearly describe it. The essays of M. Edouard Biot on the History of Public Instruction in China, contains all the information extant on this interesting subject, digested in a very lucid manner. Education is probably as good now as it ever was, and its ability to maintain and deve lop the character of the people as great as at any time ; and it is remarkable how much it realty has done to form, elevate, and consolidate their national institutions. The present monarchs were not at first favorably disposed to the system of examinations, and FLAN AND OBJECTS OF EDUCATION. 423 frowned upon the literary hierarchy who claimed all honors as their right; but the spirit of the people prevailed under Kienlung to procure their restoration. Boys commence their studies at the age of six or seven with a teacher ; for, even if tlje father be a literary man he seldom instructs his sons, and very few mothers are able to teach their offspring even to read. Maternal training is supposed to consist in giving a right direction to the morals, and enforcing the obedience of the child ; but as there are few mothers who do more than compel obedience by commands, or by the rod, so there are none who can teach the infantile mind to look up to its God in prayer and praise. On the contrary, the example of both parents is bad, and through the conversation of all around it, the mind of the child is debilitated by the polluting influences in which it grows up, and its heart and passions become thoroughly debased. The general plan and purposes of education may be learned from the Book of Rites. There are many compilations and ¦treatises for the guidance of teachers and parents in the nurture of youth, one of which, called the Siau Hioh, or Juvenile In structor, has exerted almost as much influence as the classics themselves. When establishing the first principles of education, it is recommended to fathers to " choose from among their concu bines those who are fit for nurses, seeking such as are mild, indulgent, affectionate, benevolent, cheerful, kind, dignified, re spectful, and reserved and careful in their conversation, and make them governesses over their children. When able to talk, lads must be instructed to answer in a quick, bold tone, and girls in a slow and gentle one. At the age of seven, they should be taught to count and name the cardinal points ; but at this age, should not be allowed to sit on the same mat nor eat from the same table. At eight, they must be taught to wait for their superiors, and prefer others to themselves. At ten, the boys must be sent abroad to private tutors, and there remain day and night, studying writing and arithmetic, wearing plain ap parel, learning to demean themselves in a manner becoming their age, and acting with sincerity of purpose. At thirteen, they must attend to music and poetry ; at fifteen, they must practise archery and charioteering. At the age of twenty, they are in due form to be admitted to the rank of manhood, and learn 424 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. additional rules of propriety, be faithful in the performance of filial and fraternal duties, and though they possess extensive knowledge, must not affect to teach others. At thirty, they may marry and commence the management of' business. At forty, they may enter the service of the state ; and if their prince maintains the reign of reason, they must serve him, but other. wise not. At fifty, they may be promoted to the rank of minis ters ; and at seventy, they must retire from public life." Another injunction is, " Let children always be taught to speak the simple truth ; to stand erect and in their proper places, and listen with respectful attention." The way to become a student, " is, with gentleness and self-abasement, to receive im plicitly every word the master utters. The pupil, when he sees virtuous people, must follow them, when he hears good maxims, conform to them. He must cherish no wicked designs, but always act uprightly ; whether at home or abroad, he must have a fixed residence, and associate with the benevolent, carefully regulating his personal deportment, and controlling the feelings of his heart. He must keep his clothes in order. Every morn-- ing he must learn something new, and rehearse the same every evening." The great end of education, therefore, among the ancient Chinese, was not so much to fill the head with knowledge, as to discipline the heart and purify the affections. One of their writers says, " Those who respect the virtuous and put away unlawful pleasures, serve their parents and prince to the utmost of their ability, and are faithful to their word ; — these, though they should be considered unlearned, we must pronounce to be educated men." Although such terms as purity, filial affection, learning, and truth, have higher meanings in a Chris tian education than are given them by Chinese masters, the in-' culcation of them in any degree certainly has no bad effects. In their intercourse with their relatives, children are taught to attend to the minutest points of good breeding ; and are in structed in everything relating to their personal appearance, making their toilet, saluting their parents, eating, visiting, and other acts of life. Many of these directions are trivial even to puerility, but they are perhaps none too minute for the Chinese, since they now form the only basis of good manners, as much as they did a score of centuries ago ; and it can hardly be sup posed that Confucius would have risked his influence and popu- RULES FOR CONDUCT AND STUDY. 425 larity upon the grave publication of such trifles, if he had not been well acquainted, with the character of his countrymen. If, with all the mint, anise, and cummin he taught, this remarkable man had known or inculcated the weightier matters of the law founded on the beginning of wisdom — the fear of the Lord — China would perhaps have been now the leading Christian nation in the world.* Rules are laid down for students to observe in the prosecution of their studies, which reflect credit on those who set so high a standard for themselves. Dr. Morrison has given a synopsis of a treatise of this sort, called the Complete Collection of Family Jewels, in its general character like Watts' On the Mind, and containing a minute specification of duties to be performed by all who would be thorough students. The author directs the tyro to form a fixed resolution to press forward in his studies, setting his mark as high as possible, and thoroughly understanding everything as he goes along. " I have always seen that a man who covets much and devotes himself to universal knowledge, when he reads, he presumes on the quickness and celerity of his genius and perceptions, and chapters and volumes pass before his eyes, and issue from his mouth as fluently as water rolls away ; but when does he ever apply his mind to rub and educe the essence of a subject ? In this manner, although much be read, what is the use of it 1 Better little and fine, than much and coarse." He also advises persons to have two or three good volumes lying on their tables, which they can take up at odd moments, and to keep common-place books in which they can jot down such things as occur to them. They should get rid of distracting thoughts if they wish to advance in their studies ; as " if a man's stomach has been filled by eating greens and other vegetables, although the most precious dainties with exquisite tastes should be given him, he cannot swallow them, he must first get rid of a few portions of the greens : so in reading, the ' same is true of the mixed thoughts which distract the mind, which are about the dusty affairs of a vulgar world." The rules given by these writers correspond remarkably to those laid down among ourselves, and corroborate the truth of the adage that there is no royal road to learning.']' * Chinese Repository, Vol. IV., pp. 83-87, 306-316. t Morrison's Chinese Dictionary, Vol. I., Part I., pp. 749-758. 426 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. For all grades of scholars, there is but one mode of study ; and the imitative, unprogressive nature of Chinese mind is strik ingly apparent in the few attempts on the part of .teachers to improve upon the stereotyped practice of their predecessors, although persons of as original minds as the country affords are constantly engaged in education. When the lad commences his studies, an impressive ceremony takes place, or did formerly, for it seems to have fallen into desuetude ; the father leads his sou to the teacher, who kneels down before the name or title of some one or other of the ancient sages, and supplicates their blessing upon his pupil ; after which, seating himself, lie receives the homage and petition of the lad to guide him in his lessons. A present is expected to accompany this introduction to literary pur suits. The furniture of the ' school merely consists of a desk and a stool for each pupil, and an elevated seat for the master; upon each desk are implements for writing and a few books. In one corner is placed a tablet or an inscription on the wall, dedi cated to Confucius and the god of Letters ; the sage is called the Teacher and Pattern for All Ages, and incense is constantly burned in honor of them both. The location of school-rooms is usually such as would be con sidered bad elsewhere, but by comparison with other things in China, is not so. A mat shed which barely protects from the weather, the low, hot upper- attic of a shop, a back-room in a temple, and rarely a house specially built for the purpose, are all used. The room is hired by the master, who regulates his ex penses and furnishes his apartment according to the number and condition of his pupils ; their average number is about twenty, ranging between ten and forty in day schools, and in private schools, seldom exceeding ten. The most thorough course of edu cation is probably pursued in the latter, where a well qualified teacher is hired by four or five persons living in the same street or mutually related, to teach their children at a stipulated salary. In such cases the lads are placed in well aired apartments, supe rior to the common school-room. The majority of teachers are unsuccessful students or candidates for literary degrees, who hav ing spent the prime of their days in fruitless attempts to attain office, or disliking manual labor, and unable to enter on mercantile life, turn pedagogues. Their remuneration depends on a variety of circumstances. In Canton, a teacher of twenty boys receives MODE OF- STUDY AND KINDS OF SCHOOLS. 427 from half a dollar to a dollar per month from each pupil ; in country villages, three, four, or five dollars a year are given, with the addition, in most cases, of a small present of eatables from each scholar three or four times a year. Private tutors receive from $150 to $350 or more per annum, according to par ticular engagement. There are no boarding-schools, nor any thing answering to infant schools ; nor are public or charity schools established by government, or by private benevolence for the education of the poor. The hours of study are from sunrise till ten a. m., when the boys go to breakfast ; they reassemble in an hour or more, and continue at their books till about five p. m., when they disperse for the day. In summer, they have no lessons after dinner, but an evening session is often held in the winter, and evening schools are opened for mechanics and others who are occupied during the day. When a boy comes into school in the morning, he bows first before the tablet of Confucius, as an act of worship, and then salutes his teacher ; after which he takes his seat. There are no vacations during the year, except at newyear's, at which time the engagement is completed, and the school closes, to be reopened after the teacher and parents have made a new arrangement. The common festivals, of which there are a dozen or more, are regarded as holydays, and form very necessary re laxations in a country destitute of the rest of the Sabbath. The requisite qualifications of a teacher are gravity, severity, and patience, and acquaintance with the classics ; he has only to teach the same series of books he learned himself, and keep a good watch over his charge. When the lads come together at the opening of the school, their attainments are ascertained ; the teacher endeavors to have his pupils nearly equal in this respect, but as they all study the same books, a difference is not material. If the boys are begin ners, they are brought up in a line before the desk, holding the San-tsz' King, or Trimetrical Classic, in 'their hands, and taught to read off the first lines after the teacher until they can repeat them without help. The teacher, for instance, reads off the first four lines as follows : Jin chi isu, sing pun shen ; Sing siang kin, sih siang yuen; when all his pupils simultaneously cry out, Jin chi tsu, sing pun shen ; Sing siang kin, sih siang yuen. Mispronun ciations are corrected until they can read the lesson accurately ; 428 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. they are then sent to their seats to commit the sounds to memory. All the children study aloud, and when one is able to recite the task, he is required to back it, — come up to the master's desk, and stand with his back towards him while rehearsing it. In this way, the whole of the Trimetrical Classic is backed, after which the Millenary Classic, and parts of the Four Books and Five Classics are conned. This hornbook was compiled by Wang Pihhau of the Sung dynasty for his private school, and from its great influence in Chinese education, requires a more extended notice. It contains in all 1068 words, and about half that number of separate cha racters, arranged in 178 double lines, and has been commented upon by several persons, one of whom calls it " a ford which the youthful inquirer may readily pass, and thereby reach the foun tain-head of the higher courses of learning, or a passport into the regions of classical and historical literature." The worth of this encomium can be better judged by a summary of its contents, which, with a few extracts, are taken from Dr. Bridgman's trans lation. The book begins with the nature of man, and the necessity and modes of education, and it is a little singular that the first sentence, the one quoted above, which a Chinese learns at school, contains one of the most disputed doctrines in the ancient heathen world. " Men at their birth, are by nature radically good ; In this, all approximate, but in practice widely diverge. If not educated, the natural character is changed; A course of education is made valuable by close attention. Of old, Mang's mother selected a residence, And when her son did not learn, cut out the [half-wove] web. To bring up and not educate is a father's error ; To educate without rigor shows a teacher's indolence. That boys should not learn is an improper thing ; For if they do not learn in youth, what will they do when old ? Gems unwrought can form nothing useful ; So men untaught can never know the proprieties." The importance of filial and fraternal duties are then incul cated by precept and example, to which succeeds a synopsis of the various branches of learning in an ascending series, under SANTSZ KING, OR TRIMETRICAL CLASSIC. 429 the several heads of numbers ; the three great powers, the four seasons and four cardinal points, the five elements and five con- slant virtues, the six kinds of grain and six domestic animals, the seven passions, the eight notes of music, nine degrees of kindted, and ten relative duties. A few extracts will exhibit the mode in which these subjects are treated. " There are three powers, — heaven, earth, and man. There are three lights, — the sun, moon, and stars. There are three bonds, — between prince and minister, justice ; Between father and son, affection ; between man and wife, concord. Humanity, justice, propriety, wisdom, and truth, — These five cardinal virtues are not to be confused. Rice, millet, pulse, wheat, rye, and barley, Are six kinds of grain on which men subsist. Mutual affection of father and son, concord of man and wife ; The older brother's kindness, and the younger one's respect ; Order between seniors and juniors, friendship, among associates ; On the prince's part regard, and on the minister's fidelity ; — These ten moral duties are invariably binding among men." To this technical summary, which the commentary illustrates and explains a little, succeed rules for a course of academical studies, with a list of the books to be used and a synopsis of the general history of China, with an enumeration of the successive dynasties. The work concludes with incidents and motives to learning drawn from the conduct of ancient sages and states men, and from considerations of interest and glory. The exam ples cited are curious instances of pursuit of knowledge under difficulties, and form the most inviting part of the treatise. "Formerly Confucius had the young Hiang Toh for his teacher; Even the sages of antiquity studied with diligence. Chau, a minister of state, read the Confucian Dialogues, And he too, though high in office, studied assiduously. One copied lessons on reeds, another on slips of bamboo; These, though destitute of books, eagerly sought knowledge. [To vanquish sleep] one suspended his head [by the hair] from a beam, and another pierced his thigh with an awl ; Though destitute of instruction, these were laborious in study. One read by light of glowworms, another by reflection from snow ; These, though their families were poor, did not omit to study. 430 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. One carrying faggots, and another with his book tied to a cow's horn, And while thus engaged in labor, studied with intensity. So Lautsiuen, when he was twenty-seven years of age, Commenced assiduous study, and applied his mind to books ; This man, when old, grieved that he commenced so late ; You who are young ought early to think of these things. Behold Liang Hau, at the advanced age of eighty-two, In the imperial hall, amongst many scholars, gains the first rank; This he accomplished, and was by all regarded as a prodigy ; You youthful readers, should now resolve to be diligent. Yung, when only eight years old, could recite the Odes ; And Pi, at the age of seven, understood the game of chess : These displayed ability, and were by men deemed extraordinary ; And you my youthful scholars ought to imitate them. Tsai Wanki could play upon stringed instruments ; Sie Tauwan, likewise, could sing and chant ; These two, though girls, were intelligent and well informed; You, then, my lads, should surely rouse to diligence. Liu Ngan of Tang, when only seven years old, Showing himself a noble lad, was employed to correct writing : He though very young, was thus highly promoted. You, young learners should strive to follow his example, And he who does so, will acquire similar honors. " Dogs watch by night ; the cock announces the morning ; If any refuse to learn, how can they be esteemed men ? The silkworm spins silk, the bee gathers honey ; If men neglect to learn, they are inferior to brutes. He who learns in youth, and acts when of mature age, Extends his influence to the prince, benefits the people, Makes his name renowned, renders illustrious his parents, Reflects glory on his ancestors, and enriches his posterity. Some for their offspring, leave coffers filled with gold ; While I to teach children, leave but one little book. Diligence has merit ; play yields no profit ; Be ever on your guard ! Rouse all your energies !" Chi. Rep., vol. IV., pp. 105-118. These quotations will illustrate the character of the Trimetri- cal Classic, and show its unfitness as a book for beginners ; it being rather a syllabus of studies, than a book itself to be learned, and not at all calculated to encourage and instruct the youthful mind in its uninviting task. The tedium of learning the task of unknown sounds is re lieved by writing the characters on thin paper placed; over copy- TIME SPENT AT SCHOOL. 431 slips. The writing and the reading lessons are the same, and bpth, are continued for a year or two until the forms and sounds of a few thousand characters are made familiar, but no particular effort is taken to teach their meanings. It is after this that the teacher goes over the same ground, and with the help of the com mentary, explains the meaning of the words and phrases one by one, until they are all understood. It is not usual for the beginner to attend at all to the meaning of what he is learning to read and write, and where the labor of committing arbitrary characters is so great and so irksome, experience has probably shown that it is not wise to learn too many things at once. No attempt, so far as we know, has been made to facilitate the mere acquisition of the characters by arranging them according to their component parts ; they are learned one by one, as boys are taught the names and appearance of minerals in a cabinet, or as one would learn a list of residents in a street. The effects of a course of study like this, in which the powers of the tender mind are not developed by their proper nourishment of truthful knowledge, can hardly be otherwise than to stunt the genius, and drill the faculties of the mind into a slavish adherence to venerated usage and dictation, making the intellects of Chinese students like the trees which their gardeners so toilsomely dwarf into pots and jars — plants, whose unnaturalness is congruous to the insipidity of their fruit. The number of years spent at school depends upon the position and prospects of the parents. Tradesmen, mechanics, and country gentlemen, endeavor to give their sons a competent knowledge of the usual series of books, so that they can creditably manage the common affairs of life. No other branches of study are pur sued than the classics and histories, and practice in composing ; no arithmetic or any department of mathematics, nothing of the geography of their own or other countries, of natural philosophy, natural history, or scientific arts, nor study of other languages, are attended to. Consequently, persons in these classes of society are obliged to put their sons into shops or counting-houses to obtain the routine of business with a knowledge of figures and the style of letter writing ; they are not kept at school more than three or four years, nor as long as that if the family be poor. Working men, desirous of giving their sons' at least a smattering, try to keep them at their books a year or two, but myriads of the poor grow up in utter ignorance. 432 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. Besides the common schools, there are grammar or high schools and colleges, but they are far less effective. In Canton, there are fourteen grammar schools, but none of them are in good condition. There are also thirty colleges, some of which are quite ancient, but most of them are neglected. Three of the largest contain each about two hundred students and two or three professors. The chief object of these institutions is to instruct advanced scholars in composition and elegant writing ; the tutors do a little to turn their attention to general literature, but have neither the genius nor the means to make many advances. In rural dis tricts, students are encouraged lo meet at stated times in the town-house, where the headman or president of the sz' examines them on themes previously proposed by him.* In largo towns, too, the local officers, assisted by the gentry and graduates^hold annual e.x ampliations of students in the place, at which premiums are given to the best essayists. At such an examination in Amoy in March, 1845, there were about a thousand candidates, forty of whom received sums varying from sixty to sixteen cents. The Kwoh-tsz' Kien, or National College at Peking, is regarded as the highest collegiate institution in the land, but we have few notices of its actual condition. Officers of high rank are allowed to send a son to it at the expense of the government, where they attend to general literature and studies fitted for some particular service. One of the acts of grace at the present emperor's coronation was to extend this privilege to- the sons of officers of the third and fourth rank. There are slated examinations of the students held, preparatory to their leaving the institution, but this does not supersede the necessity of their competing at the regular examinations. How great a proportion of the people in China can read is a difficult question to answer. More of the men in cities can read than in the country, and more in some provinces than in others. In the district of Nanhai, which forms part of the city of Canton, an imperfect examination led to the belief that nearly all the men are able to read, except gardeners, fishermen, agriculturists, * Chinese Repository, Vol. IV., page 4J4. See also Vol. VI., pp. 229- 241 ; Vol. IV., pp. 1-10; Vol. XI., pp. 5-15-S57 ; and Vol. XIII., pp. 626- 641, for further notices of the modes and objects of education ; and Biofs Essai sur l'Histoire de l'Instruction Publique en Chine. PROPORTION OF READERS IN CHINA. 433 coolies, boat-people, and fuelers, and two or three in ten devote their lives to literary pursuits. In less thickly settled districts, not more than four or five tenths, and even less, can read. In Macao, perhaps half of the men can road. From an examination of the patients in his hospital at Ningpo, one of the missionaries there estimated the readers to form not more than five per cent. of the men ; while another missionary at the same place, who made inquiry in a higher grade of society, reckoned them at twenty per cent. Tho villagers about Amoy have been found to be deplorably ignorant ; and probably throughout the empire, the ability to understand books is not commensurate with the ability to read the sounds of their characters, and both have been somewhat exaggerated. Owing to fhe manner in which educa tion is commenced, — learning the form and names of characters before their meaning and connexion arc understood, at comes to pass that many persons can run over the names of the characters on a page while they do not comprehend the meaning of what they read. They can pick out a word here and there which they know, it may be a phrase or a sentence, but they derive no clearer meaning from what they read than a lad who has just learned to scan, and had proceeded half through the Latin Reader, docs from reading Virgil ; while in both cases an intel ligent audience, unacquainted with the circumstances, might justly infer that tho reader understood what he was reading as well as his hearers did. Moreover, among the Chinese, different subjects demand the use of different characters ; and although a man may be well versed in the classics or in legal writings, he may be easily posed by being aslied to explain a simple treatise in medicine or in mathematics, in consequence of the many new or unfamiliar words on every page. This is a serious obstacle in the way of obtaining a general acquaintance with books. The mind becomes weary with the labor of study where its toil is neither rewarded by knowledge nor beguiled by wit ; and there are, consequently, few Chinese well read in their national litera ture even among the most intelligent. Literature being generally pursued as a means of attaining an end, not for the instruction received or tho pleasure conferre-d, or to maintain one's station in society, a man is less disposed to attend to general reading or turn author, when he has in a measure attained the object he had in view. 20 434 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. Wealthy or official parents, who wish their sons to compete for literary honors, give them the advantages of a full course in read ing and rhetoric under the best masters. Composition is the most difficult part of the training of a Chinese student, and re quires unwearied application, and a retentive memory. He who can most readily quote the classics, and approach the nearest to their terse, comprehensive, energetic diction and style, is, cceteris paribus, most likely to succeed ; while the man who can most quickly throw off well rhythmed verses takes the palm from all competitors. In novels, the ability to compose elegant verses as fast as the pencil can fly is usually ascribed to the hero of the plot. How many of those who intend to compete for degrees attend at the district colleges or high schools is not known, but they are resorted to by students about the time of the examinations in order t%make the acquaintance of those who are to compete with them. No public examinations take place in either day or private schools, nor do parents often visit them, but rewards to excite the ambition of the pupils are occasionally conferred. There is little gradation of studies, nor are any diplomas con ferred on students to show that they have gone through a certain course. Punishments are severe, and the rattan or bamboo hangs conspicuously near the master, and its liberal use is considered necessary : " To educate without rigor, shows the teacher's indo lence," is the doctrine, and by scolding, starving, castigation, and imprisonment, the master tries to instil habits of obedience, and compel his scholars to learn their distasteful task. Notwithstanding the high opinion in which education is held, and the diffusion of knowledge to a greater or less extent, and the respect paid to learning in comparison with mere title and wealth, the defects of the tuition here briefly described, in extent, means, purposes, and results, are very great. Such, too, must unavoid ably be the case until new principles and new information are infused into it. Considering it in its best point of view, this system of education has effected all it can in enlarging the understand ing, purifying the heart, ancl strengthening the minds of the people ; but in none of these, nor in any of the essential points which a sound education aims at, has it accomplished half that is needed. The stream never rises even as high as its source, and the teachings of Confucius and Mencius have done all they could to make their countrymen thinking, useful, and intelligent men. DEFICIENCIES OF CHINESE EDUCATION. 435 In comparison with other Asiatic nations, the Chinese have made distinguished attainments in general intelligence, and in good government so far as security of life and property goes, and the tone of public opinion is more in favor of morality and sobriety than among their neighbors. The deficiencies consist mostly in those things which Christianity alone can supply, and until that comes to their aid they cannot be expected to advance. It is a remarkable thing that the writings of Confucius and his disciples should have been regarded with such reverence ; and we are dis posed to look upon their teachings as sustained and invigorated by the all-wise Governor of nations for his own gracious designs, more directly than perhaps second causes would lead us to con clude. " The Chinese student, not being secured from error by the light of revealed religion, can only derive his moral precepts from his school learning. He is certainly therefore fortunate in the pos session of a body of ancient national literature, which, while it cul tivates his taste and improves his understanding, contains nothing to influence his passions or corrupt his heart. The Chinese are not compelled, as we are, upon the authority of great names, and for the sake of the graces of style and language, to place in the hands of their youth, works containing passages which put modesty to the blush, — works in which the most admirable maxims of morality are mixed and confounded together in the same page with avowals and descriptions of the most disgusting licentious ness. The writings which the Chinese put into the hands of their youthful students are in this respect wholly unexception able." This testimony is unimpeachable ; but he who receives the Bible as the only sure exposition of depraved human charac ter, will still inquire, how is it that in China these writings have exerted so commanding an influence, when those of Seneca, Plato, Socrates, and others, decidedly superior to them for genius, and fully equal in moral elevation, so slightly improved the mass of their countrymen ? Human nature there is no less impure, irri table, and debased than it was in Greece and Rome, and no answer so satisfactory can be obtained, when seeking an explanation of the influence these ancient works have exerted over the Chinese, as by considering them to have been granted from the Source of all wisdom for the end, by his blessing, of producing these effects. Turn we now from this brief sketch of primary education among the Chinese, to a description of the mode of examining 436 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. students and conferring the degrees which have been made the passport to office, and learn what are the real merits of the sys tem. Persons from almost every class of society may become candidates for degrees under the certificates of securities, but none are eligible for the second diploma who have not already received the first. It therefore happens that the republican license apparently allowed of almost every subject struggling for these academic honors is really confined to a few, and those usu ally the most talented or wealthy persons in the community. Most of the clever, restless, ambitious, and intelligent spirits in the land look forward to these examinations as the only field worthy of their efforts, and where they are most likely to find their equals and friends. How much better for the good of society, too, is this arena than the camp or the feudal court, the tournament or the monastery ! There are four literary degrees, the first of which is called siu-tsai, meaning flowering talent, because of the promise held out of the future success of the scholar. The examinations to obtain it are held under the supervision of the chihien in a pub lic building erected in the district town ;' and the chief literary officer, called hiohching, " corrector of learning," or kiau-yu, "teacher of the commands," has the immediate control. When assembled at the hall of examination, the district magistrate se lects the theme, and allows one day for writing the essays. The number of candidates depends upon the population and literary spirit of the district ; in the districts of Nanhai and Pwanyu, up wards of 2,000 persons competed for the prize in 1832, while in Hiangshan not half of this number came together. When the essays are handed in, they are looked over by the board of ex aminers, and the. names of the successful students entered on a roll, and pasted upon the walls of the magistrate's hall ; this honor is called hien ming, i. e. " having a name in the village." Out of the 4000 candidates referred to above, only thirteen in one district, and fourteen in the other, obtained a name in the vil lage ; the entire population of these two districts is not much under a million and a half. Those who pass the first examina tion are entered as candidates for the second, which takes place in the chief town of the department before the literary chancellor and the prefect, assisted by a literary magistrate called the kiau- shau, " giver of instructions ;" it is more rigorous than that held EXAMINATION FOR SIUTSAI OR BACHELOR. 437 before the chihien, though similar to it in nature. If the pro portion given above of successful candidates at the district exami nations hold for each district, there would not be more than 200 students assembled at the prefect's hall, but the number is some what increased by persons who have purchased the privilege : still the second trial is made among a small number in proportion to tiie first, and still more trifling compared with the amount of population. The names of the successful students at the second trial are exposed on the walls of the office, which is called fu tiling, i. e. ¦' having a name in the department," and these onlv are eligible as candidates tor the third trial before the literary chancellor of tbe province. This dignitarv exercises a superin- tendance over the previous examinations, and makes the circuit of the province to attend them in each department, twice in three years. At the third trial in the provincial capital, he confers the first degree of siutsai, which has been translated ¦• bachelor of arts." upon those who are chosen out of the whole list as the best scholars. There are several classes of bachelors, depending somewhat on the manner in which they obtained their degree : those who get it in the manner here described takelhe precedence. The possession of this degree protects the person from corporeal pu nishment, raises him above the common people, renders him a conspicuous man in his native place, an signifies continuous. The fifth class, called kiai shing, i. e. uniting sound sym bols, contains 21,810 characters, or Dearly all in the language. They are formed of a picture or imitative symbol united to one which merely imparts its sound to the compound : the former usually partakes more or less of the new idea, while the latter 464 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. loses its own meaning, and gives only its name. In this respect, Chinese characters differ from, and are superior to the Arabic numerals to which they have often been likened, for combina tions like 25, 101, &c, although conveying the same meaning to all nations using them, can never indicate sound. This plan of forming new combinations by the union of symbols expressing idea and sound, enables the Chinese to increase the number of their characters to any extent, without multiplying the original symbols ; and it is to this class that the term_ lexigraphic used by Du Ponceau is properly applicable. The probable mode in which this arose is easily explained. Supposing a new insect was to be described, whose name had never yet been written, but which was well known in its native localities by the term nan. It would be sufficient to designate this insect to all persons living where it was found bv selecting a well understood cha- racter, like -f^j "south," but without reference to its meaning, only having the. exact sound nan, such as the insect itself was called in that place, and joining it to the symbol chung, ^ meaning insect ; it would then signify, to every one who knew the sound and meaning of the component parts, the insect nan ; and be read nan, meaning an insect. Some would perhaps call it the insect south, i. e. the southern insect, but the design of the new combination would be the guide, and the number of such ideophonous compounds direct as to the mode of interpretation. If this new combination of two known characters was carried to a distant part of the country, where the insect itself was un known, it would convey no more information to the Chinese who saw the united symbol, than the sounds insect nan would to an Englishman who heard them ; to both persons a meaning must be given by describing tbe insect. If, however, the people living in this region of the country called the phonetic part of the new character by another sound, as nctni, nem, or hm, they would attach the same name to the whole combination When they saw it ; and the people on the spot would, perhaps, not under stand them when they spoke of it by that name, until they had written it, when both would give il the same signification, but a different sound. In this way, and the example of the insect nan here cited is not a supposed case, most Chinese characters have probably originated. This rule of sounding them according to the phonetic part is not in all cases certain ; for in the lapse of MODE OF COMBINING PHONETIC CHARACTERS. 465 time, the sounds of many characters have changed, while those of the parts themselves have not altered ; in other cases, the parts have altered, and the sounds remained ; so that now only a great degree of probability as to the correct sound can be obtained by inspecting the component parts. The similarity in sound between most of the characters having the same phonetic part or primitive is a great assistance in reading Chinese, though very little in understanding it ; while the large proportion of characters formed on this principle has induced some sino logues to arrange the whole language according to the phonetic part, but there are too many exceptions to make it a very useful arrangement in practice. The most elaborate work of the kind is the Systema Phoneticum of Callery. There are a few in stances of an almost inadvertent arrival at a true syllabic sys tem, by which the initial consonant of one part when joined to the final vowel of the other, gives the sound of the character ; as ma and fi, in the character g^,- when united in this way, make mi. The meanings of the components are hemp and not, that of the compound is extravagant, wasteful, &c, showing little or no relation to the primary signification. The number of such cha racters is very small, and the syllabic composition here noticed is probably fortuitous, and not intentional. The sixth class, called kia tsii, i. e. borrowed uses, includes metaphoric symbols and combinations, in which the meaning is deduced by a somewhat fanciful accommodation ; the total num ber of such characters is 598. They differ' but little from the second class of indicative symbols. For instance, the symbol §- or ]y[, meaning a written character, is composed of a child under a shelter, — characters being considered as the well nur tured offspring of hieroglyphics. The character for hall means also mother, because she constantly abides there. The word for mind or heart is sin dy, originally intended to represent that organ, but now used entirely in a metaphorical sense. Chinese grammarians find abundant scope for the display of their fancy in explaining the etymology and origin of the characters, but the aid which their researches give towards understanding the lan guage as at present used is small. This classification under six heads is modern, and was devised as a means of arranging what existed already, for they confess that their characters were not 21* 466 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. formed according to fixed rules, and have gradually undergone many changes. The total number in the six classes is 24,235, being many less than are found in Kanghi's Dictionary, which amount to 44,449 ; but in the larger sum are included the obsolete and synonymous characters, which, if deducted, would reduce it to nearly the same number. It is probable that the total of really different characters in the language sanctioned by good usage, does not vary greatly from 25,000, though authors have stated them at from 54,409, as Magaillans does, up to 260,899, as Montucci. The Chinese editor of the large lexicon on which Dr. Morrison founded his Dictionary, gives it as his opinion that there are fifty thousand characters, including synonyms and different forms ; and taking in every variety of tones given to the words, ancl sounds for which no characters exist, that there are five thousand different words. But even the sum of 25,000 different charac ters contains thousands of unusual ones which are seldom met with, and which, as is the case with old words in English, are not often learned. The burden of remembering so many com plicated symbols, whose form, sound, and meanings are all ne cessary to enable the student to read and write intelligibly, is so great that the literati have abridged those in common use, and increased their meanings, by which they save no little toil. This course of procedure really occurs in most languages, and in the Chinese greatly reduces the labor of acquiring it, though it can not be ascertained how many are indispensable to enable the student to read common books. It may, however, be safely said that a good knowledge of ten thousand characters will enable one to read any work in Chinese, and write intelligibly on any subject ; and Premare says a good knowledge of four or five thousand characters is sufficient for all common purposes, and two thirds of that number might in fact suffice. The nine cano nical works contain altogether only 4601 different characters, while in the Five Classics alone there are over two hundred thousand words. The entire number of different characters in the code of laws translated by Staunton is under two thousand. The invention of printing and the compilation of dictionaries nave given to the form of modern characters a greater degree of certainty than they had in ancient times. The variants of some of the most common ones were exceedingly numerous before this MODES OF ARRANGING CHARACTERS. 467 period ; Callery gives 42 different modes of writing pau, " pre- cious ;" and 41 for writing tsun, " honorable ;" this shows both the absence of an acknowledged standard, and the slight intercourse there was between learned men. The best mode of arranging the characters so as to find them easily, has been a subject of considerable trouble to Chinese lexicographers, and the various methods they have adopted renders it somewhat difficult to con sult their dictionaries without considerable previous .knowledge of the language. In some of them, those having the same sound have been grouped together, so that it is necessary to know what a character is called before it can be found ; and this arrange ment has been followed in several small vocabularies designed principally for the use of the common people. One well-known vocabulary used at Canton, called the Fan Yun, or Divider of Sounds, is arranged on this plan, the words being placed under thirty-three orders, according to their terminations. Each order is subdivided into three or four classes according to the tones, and all the characters having the same tone and termination are placed together, as kam, hm, tarn, nam, &c. As might be readily supposed, it requires considerable time to find a character whose tone is not exactly known ; and even when the tone is known, the uncertainty is equally troublesome if the termination is not familiar : for singular as it may seem to those who are acquaint ed with phonetic languages only, a Chinese can, if anything, more readily distinguish between two words fining and bming, whose tones are unlike, than he can between #ming and %meng, #ming or #bing, where the initial or final differs a little, and the tones are the same. An improvement on this plan of arrangement was made by adopting the mode of expressing the sounds of Chinese charac ters introduced by the Budhists, which was to take the initial of the sound of one character and the final of another, and combine them to indicate the sound of the given character ; as from Zi-en and y-ing to form ling. The inhabitants of Amoy use a small lexicon called the Shih-wu Yin, or Fifteen Sounds, in which the characters are ingeniously classified on this principle, by first arranging them all under fifty finals, and then placing all those having the same termination in a regular series under fifteen initials. Common, well-known characters are selected to indi cate both the initials and finals. Supposing a new character, 468 THE MIDDLE KINGDOM. chien, is seen, whose sound is given, or the word is heard in con versation and its meanings are wanted, the person turns to the part of the book containing the final ien, which is designated per haps by the character kien, and looks along the initials until he comes to ch, which is indicated by the character chang. In this column, all the words in the book read or spoken chien, of whatever tone they may be, are placed together according to their tones*; and a little practice readily enables a person speak ing the dialect to use this manual. It is, however, of little or no avail to persons speaking other dialects, or to those whose ver nacular differs much from that of the compiler, whose own ear was his only guide. Complete dictionaries have been published on the phonetic plan, the largest of which, the Wu Chi Yun Fu, is arranged with so much minuteness of intonation as to puzzle even the best educated natives, and consequently abridge its use fulness as an expounder of words. The unfitness of either of these modes of arrangement to find a new character, led to another classification according to their composition, by selecting the most prominent parts of each cha racter as its key, and placing those together in which the same key occurred, totally irrespective of their sounds. It is not certain that this plan was adopted subsequently to that of arrang ing the characters according to the sounds, for the objects aimed at are apparently unlike ; the latter being designed for the use of natives speaking the language, while the classification under keys is intended for the- benefit of those who, like the Manchus, are ignorant of its sounds. Lexicographers differ as to the num ber of keys, some having more than 500, others about 300, but the dictionary called Kanghi Tsz' Tien, arranges all charac ters under 214 keys, or radicals. This number is entirely arbi trary, and could have been advantageously reduced, as has been shown by Gonc,alves ; but its universal adoption, more than any thing else, renders it the best system now in use. All characters found under the same radical are placed consecutively, according to the number of strokes necessary to write them, but no regu larity is observed in placing those having the same number of strokes. The term primitive has been technically applied to the remaining part of the character, which, though perhaps no older than the radical, is conveniently denoted by this word. The characters selected for the 214 radicals are all common onesj RADICALS AND PRIMITIVES COMPRISING CHARACTERS. 469 » and among the most ancient in the language; thev are here grouped according to their meanings in order to show something of the leading ideas followed in combination. Parts cf bodies. — Body, corpse, head, hair, down, whiskers, face, eye, ear, nose, mouth, tteeth, tusk, tongue, hand, heart, foot, hide, leather, skill, wings, feathers, blood, 2esh, talons, born, bones. Zoological radicals. — Man, woman, child : horse, sheep, tiger, dog, ox, hog. hog's bead, deer ;. tortoise, xirag-oa, reptile, mouse, toad ; bird, gallinaceous fowls : fish : insect. Botanical. — Herb, grain, rice, wheat, millet, hemp, leeks, melon, pulse, bamboo, sacrificial herb : wood, branch, sprout, petal. Mineral. — Metal, stone, gems, salt, earth. 3leleorologiaiL — Rain, wind, fire, water, icicle, vapor, sound : snn, moon, evening : time. Liensiis. — A chest, a measure, a mortar, spoon, knife, bench, couch, crockery, clothes, tiles, dishes, napkin, net, plough, vase, tripod, boat, carriage, pencil; bow, halberd, arrow, dart, ax. musical reed, drum, seal. Qualities. — B'ack, white, yellow, azure, carnation, sombre ; color; high, long, sweet, square, large, small, strong, lame, slender, old, fra grant, icrid, perverse, base, opposed. .l-\:'.-"js. — To en;er. to follow, to walk s!owl». to arrive at, to stride, to walk, to run. to reach to, to touch, to stop, to fly. to overspread, to en- relop, to x^neircle. to establish, to overshadow, to adjust, to distinguish, to divine, to see, to eat, to speak, to k.U. to right, to oppose, to stop, to embroider, to owe, to compare, to imitate, to bring forth, to use, to pro- nralge. Parts rf ihe icor.'J. and dtcellinirs : fgures: miscellxn -\ : .,>. — A desert, cave, fie'd, den, mound, IxiK. valley, rivulet, cliff, retreat. A city; roof, gate, door, portico. One, two, eight, ten. Demon ; an inch, mile; with out, not. false ; a scholar, statesman, letters : art wealth ; motion : self, myself, father ; a point : a