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BRABANT AND EAST FLANDERS

BRUSSELS
The H6tel de Ville, a corner of the Grande Place,
showing La Maison des Brasseurs, La Maison du
Cygne, and La Maison de l'fitoile.

BRABANT AND EAST
FLANDERS • PAINTED
BY AMEDfiE FORESTIER
TEXT BY GEORGE W. T.
OMOND • PUBLISHED BY
A. & C. BLACK • SOHO
SQUARE • LONDON • W.

Contents

CHAPTER I

PAGE

Ghent .......... i
CHAPTER II
The Dukes of Brabant — The Joyeuse Entree — End of the
Sixteenth Century . . . . . . . 15
CHAPTER III
The Bombardment of 1695 — The Grande Place — Church
of Ste. Gudule — Charles of Lorraine • ¦ • 37
CHAPTER IV
Joseph II. and the Revolution of Brabant . . -53
CHAPTER V
The Jacobins of Brussels — Visit of Nafoleon — The Hun
dred Days ........ 65
CHAPTER VI
The Dutch Government — The Revolution of 1830 . 81
CHAPTER VII
The Vicissitudes of Antwerp . . . . . -93

List of Illustrations
i. The H6tel de Ville : A Corner of the Grande Place
(showing La Maison des Brasseurs, La Maison du
Cygne, and La Maison de l'Etoile), Brussels . Frontispiece FACING PAGE
2. An Old Lace-Maker, Ghent  4
3. The Banquet Hall, Chateau des Comtes, Ghent . . 6
4. Beguinage de Mont St. Amand, Ghent .... 8
5. The Arriere Faucille (Achter Sikkel), Ghent . . 10
6. The Ruins of the Cloisters of the Abbey of St. Bavon,
Ghent . . . . . . . .12
7. Place de Brouckere, Brussels  18
8. Entrance to the Old Church of the Carmelites, Brussels . 30
9. The Cathedral of Ste. Gudule, Brussels ... 44
10. Old Houses in the Grande Place, Brussels ... 62
11. Rue de Namur, Brussels ...... 78
12. The Farm of La Belle Alliance, and the Mound sur
mounted by the Belgian Lion, Waterloo ... 80
1 3. The Cathedral Chapel of St. Joseph, Antwerp . . 96
14. The Vieille Boucherie, Antwerp ..... 98
15. Old Houses in the Rue de PEmpereur, Antwerp . .100
16. Archway under the Vieille Boucherie, Antwerp . .104
17. The Concierge of the Musee Plantin-Moretus, Antwerp . 106
18. The Place Verte, Antwerp  112
19. The Musee Plantin-Moretus (The Arriere Boutique),
Antwerp  ¦ IZ4
20. The Roadstead from the Tete de Flandre, Antwerp . 118
vii

GHENT

EAST FLANDEBS AND BEABANT

CHAPTER I
GHENT
From Bruges, the capital of West Flanders, to
Ghent, the capital of East Flanders, it is only half
an hour's journey by rail ; but the contrast between
them is remarkable. Bruges is a city of the dead,
of still life, of stagnant waters, of mouldering walls
and melancholy streets, long since fallen from its
high estate into utter decay. Ghent, on the other
hand, is active, bustling, prosperous. The narrow
lanes and gloomy courts of mediaeval times have,
in many parts, been swept away to make room for
broad, well-lighted streets and squares, through
which electric trams, crowded with busy people,
run incessantly all day long. Bruges is known as
* La Morte.' Ghent is often called ' La Ville de
Flore,' from the numerous gardens and hot-houses
3 1—2

4 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
which supply plants to the markets of France,
Germany, America, and other countries. Other
branches of industry thrive. The trade in flax,
linen, leather goods, engines, and lace, is large and
flourishing. There are warehouses packed full of
articles of commerce waiting to be sent off by
canal or railway, and yards piled high with wood
from North America, or bags of Portland cement
from England.
Two great canals, one connecting the town with
the estuary of the Scheldt near the sea, and the
other leading, through Bruges, to Ostend, admit
merchant vessels and huge barges to a commodious
harbour, where steam cranes and all the appliances
of a busy seaport are in full swing. There never
is a crowd in Bruges, except during the yearly
Procession of the Holy Blood ; but every day in
Ghent, if by chance a drawbridge over one of the
canals is raised, a crowd of working people gathers
to wait impatiently while some deeply -laden barge
passes slowly through, and, the moment the passage
is free, rushes over in haste. These are Flemings
in a hurry. One never sees them in Bruges.
Ghent, then, is a modern commercial town ; but,
in spite of all the changes which time and progress
have brought about, it is, like most of the other

GHENT
An old lace-maker.

GHENT 5
Flemish towns, full of sights which carry us back
in a moment to the distant past.
The Lys and the Scheldt, winding through
Belgium from west to east, meet almost in the
centre of the province of East Flanders ; and at
the point where they join a number of islands have
been formed by numerous channels, pools, and
backwaters which are connected with the two
rivers. In early times, no doubt, the spot was
nothing but a morass, and on one of the pieces of
drier ground the first wooden houses of Ghent were
erected. After that, during the course of cen
turies, the town spread from island to island, and
as each island was occupied a bridge was built, so
that by degrees between twenty and thirty islands,
joined by a number of bridges, were covered with
dwelling-houses and public buildings, and the whole
surrounded by a wall and moat.
But long before buildings of brick or stone re
placed the dark wooden houses, of which only one
now remains, the people of Ghent had acquired
the character of being the most intractable of all
the Flemings ; and when Philip of Alsace, Count
of Flanders, came back from the Holy Land,
towards the end of the twelfth century, he erected,
on the site of an old fortress which Baldwin Bras-

6 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
de-Fer had built 200 years before, a strong castle
for the purpose of overawing the townsmen.
On the left bank of the Lys, which, passing
through the middle of the town, threads its way
close under the basements of the houses, is the
Place Ste. Pharailde, with its picturesque buildings
of the Middle Ages ; and on the north side of this
Place stand the massive remains of the old strong
hold. It is a grim, forbidding place, now known as the
Chateau des Comtes. On three sides high black
walls rise straight out of the water, and on the
fourth side a deep archway leads into a large
courtyard, in the middle of which is the donjon,
said to date from the ninth century. There is a
vast, dim banquet-hall, with an immense chimney-
piece, and small windows with stone seats sunk
deep in the walls, where King Edward III. of
England and Queen Philippa feasted with Jacques
van Artevelde in the year 1339, during the war
with France. Dark, narrow staircases lead from
story to story within the thickness of the walls, or
wind up through turrets pierced with small windows
a few inches square. Far down in the foundations
are dismal oubliettes and torture-chambers ; and in
one corner of what is supposed to have been a

GHENT
The Banquet Hall, Chateau des Comtes.

GHENT 7
prison is an iron-bound chest full of the skeletons
of persons who suflfered in the religious troubles of
the sixteenth century. This gloomy place, once
the abode of so much cruelty, is one of the most
interesting sights in Ghent.
Charles V. was born at Ghent in the Cour des
Princes, a magnificent palace, of which nothing
but a single gateway now remains. John of Gaunt
(or Ghent) was born here, too. Here took place
the marriage of the Archduke Maximilian to Mary
of Burgundy, which gave the Netherlands to the
House of Austria. And here, in the Carthusian
monastery in the Rue des Chartreux, in a room
which is now one of the refectories, Lord Gambier,
as Ambassador for George III., signed, on Christmas
Eve, 1814, the articles of peace which put an end
to the war between Great Britain and the United
States of America.
Everywhere, however, in Flanders the chief con
necting-link between the past and the present is to
be found at the H6tel de Ville, the centre of the
civic life ; and it would be hard to find in all the
Netherlands, except at Brussels, a more splendid
example of Gothic architecture than the north side
of the Hotel de Ville at Ghent.
Within, on the walls of a great hall, the Salle

8 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
des Etats, is a tablet in memory of the famous
' Pacification of Ghent,' signed there in 1576, when
the leaders of the Dutch and Catholic Netherlands
united for the purpose of securing civil and religious
liberty and the downfall of the Spanish oppression.
Opposite this tablet is a window, through which
one steps on to a small balcony where proclama
tions were made of war, or peace, or royal marriages,
and laws were promulgated, in olden times. In
another part of the building the twelve Catholics,
thirteen Liberals, and fourteen Socialists, who (1907)
make up the Council of to-day, meet and debate,
in a Gothic hall of the fifteenth century, with the
Burgomaster in the chair. The civil marriages,
which by the Belgian Constitution of 1831 must
always precede the religious ceremony in church,
take place in an old chapel of 1574, where there is
a large picture by Wauters of Mary of Burgundy
asking the burghers of Ghent to pardon one of her
Ministers. Just outside the door of this Salle des
Manages a painting of the last moments of Count
Egmont and Count Horn hangs in a passage, with
a roof 500 years old, leading to the offices of the
Tramway Company. Thus the everyday business
of the town is conducted in the midst of the
memorials of the past.

GHENT
B£guinage de Mont St. Amand.

GHENT 9
In front of the balcony of the H6tel de Ville
there used to be a wide, open space, in which the
burghers assembled ; but now the ground is occu
pied by a row of houses (the Rue Haut-Port),
intersected by narrow streets, one of which leads to
the Marche' de Vendredi, the scene of the greatest
events in the history of Ghent. This is a large
square, surrounded by a double row of trees, in the
middle of which is a statue of Jacques van Artevelde,
the ' Brewer of Ghent,' who stands with arm up
raised, pointing to the west, as if to show his
fellow-citizens that help was coming from England,
or that the enemy was on the march from France.
Not far from the Hotel de Ville the compact
tower of St. Nicholas rises above the housetops ;
and the churches of St. Pierre, St. Michael, and
St. Jacques are worth a visit. There is also the
Beguinage de Ste. Elisabeth, a group of houses of
dark red brick with tiled roofs, trim grass paddocks,
and winding streets, clustering round a church —
the quietest spot in Ghent, where five or six
hundred Beguines, in their blue robes and white
head-dresses, spend their days in making lace or
attending the services of the Catholic Church.
But the antiquary and student of history will find
more to interest him if he makes his way to the
2

10 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
Abbey of St. Bavon (birthplace of John of Gaunt),
the ruins of which lie on the east side of the town,
near the Porte d'Anvers.
The tradition is that this abbey was founded,
early in the seventh century, by St. Amandus, the
' Apostle of Flanders,' and enlarged, some twenty
years later, by St. Bavon. In the middle of the
ninth century it was almost entirely destroyed by
the Normans, but rose once more at a later period,
only to be demolished by Charles V., who erected
a castle there about the year 1540. A quarter of
a century later, on September 23, 1567, Egmont
and Horn were brought here by the orders of Alva,
and kept in prison until they were carried, ' guarded
by two companies of infantry and one of cavalry,'
to Brussels, where the execution took place, in the
Grande Place, on June 5, 1568.
When the Congress of Ghent assembled in 1576,
the castle was occupied by a Spanish garrison, who
refused to capitulate. It was accordingly besieged
by William of Orange, and ' the deliberations of
the Congress were opened under the incessant roar
of cannon.' The siege ended, by the surrender of the
Spaniards, on the very day on which the sittings of
the Congress were finished by the conclusion of
the treaty known as the ' Pacification,' which was

GHENT
The Arriere Faucille (Achter Sikkel).

GHENT 11
signed at Ghent on November 9, 1576. ' The
Pacification, as soon as published, was received
with a shout of joy. Proclaimed in the market
place of every city and village, it was ratified, not by
votes, but by hymns of thanksgiving, by triumphal
music, by thundering of cannon, and by the blaze
of beacons throughout the Netherlands.'* The
Castle, a monument of the Spanish tyranny, was
pulled down ; but many fragments still remain of
the ancient Abbey of St. Bavon.
In the first quarter of the fifteenth century
Hubert van Eyck and his brother Jan were living
at Ghent. Here Hubert began to paint the cele
brated altarpiece, ' The Adoration of the Immacu
late Lamb,' which his brother finished after his
death. This great painting, having survived the
greed of Philip II., the fanaticism of the Puritan
iconoclasts, and the rapacity of the French revolu
tionary army, now hangs in the Cathedral of
St. Bavon ; and every year hundreds of travellers
visit Ghent in order to see what is, beyond doubt,
the finest production of the Early Flemish School.
In the choir, too, of the Cathedral are four huge
candlesticks of copper, which were originally made
as ornaments for the grave of Henry VIII. at
* Motley's Rise of the Dutch Republic, part iv., chap. v.
2—2

12 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
Windsor, but were sold during the Common
wealth. In 1500 the infant who afterwards became the
Emperor Charles V. was carried from the Cour des
Princes to the Cathedral. ' His baptism,' we read
in local history, ' was celebrated with right royal
pomp in the Church of St. Bavon. Great rejoicings
signalized the event. The fountains lavishly sent
up streams of purple wine from their fantastic jets,
" mysteries " and mummeries, masks and merry
makings, usurped for a time the place of commerce
and earnest speculation. The brave and steady
citizens of Ghent ran riot from the house, and never
was Venice herself more wild in the days of her
maddest carnival. We are told that a magic
gallery, 200 feet long, which was maintained during
this temporary jubilee in a state of sufficient
security to insure the safety of the thousands who
thronged it, was erected at a giddy height across
the streets, connecting the tower of the great
Belfry with that of the Church of St. Nicholas.
This was, for three consecutive nights, profusely
illuminated, and threw a brilliant glow over the gay
scene, in which all Ghent was revelling below.'
In the time of Charles V., Ghent was not only
the most powerful city in the rich Netherlands, but

GHENT
The ruins of the cloisters of the Abbey of St. Bavon.

GHENT 13
one of the most opulent in all Europe. And what
the Belfry, whose chimes ring out with such sweet
melody by night and day, was to Bruges, that was
to the more warlike men of Ghent the ' iron tongue '
of Roland, the mighty bell which hung in the lofty
watch-tower. It called them to arms. It sent
them forth to battle. It welcomed them home
victorious, or bade them meet and defend their
privileges in the market-place. ' It seemed, as it
were, a living historical personage, endowed with
the human powers and passions which it had so
long directed and inflamed.'
The Belfry of Ghent, black with age, still towers
above the Cloth Hall. But when, in 1540, the
Emperor went there for the purpose of humbling
the town, and punishing the burghers for their
disobedience, he made a decree that Roland, whose
voice had so often given the signal for revolt,
should be taken down. No greater insult could
have been offered to the proud city.
Bruges fell into the decay from which she has
never yet recovered chiefly because, at a time when
the whole commerce of Flanders and Brabant was
beginning to languish, she lost her communications
with the sea ; and Ypres was ruined by years of
internal discord and constant war. But Ghent, the

14 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
third of the three ' Bonnes Villes ' of Flanders,
though the industrial depression which spread over
the Netherlands and the long struggle against Spain
combined to ruin her, has come triumphant through
all vicissitudes. In the old days the men of Ghent
were famous for their turbulent spirit and love of
independence. It was no easy task to rule them,
as Counts of Flanders, or Dukes of Burgundy, or
Kings of Spain often found to their cost. And now
it seems as if the robust character of the burghers
who fought so hard, in mediaeval times, to maintain
their liberties, had been merely turned into another
channel, and transmitted to their descendants in the
shape of that keen activity in commerce which
makes this town so prosperous at the present day.

THE DUKES OF BRABANT—
THE JOYEUSE ENTREE— END OF THE
SIXTEENTH CENTURY

CHAPTER II
THE DUKES OF BRABANT — THE JOYEUSE ENTREE —
END OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY
A few miles to the south-west of Alost, on the
borders of East Flanders, the River Dendre, on its
way to join the Scheldt, forms the boundary of
Brabant. From Denderleeuw, the frontier station,
to Brussels is about fifteen miles by train, through
a district which gradually loses the bare flatness of
the plains of Flanders, and becomes wooded, un
dulating, and hilly as we approach the city.
And Brussels is quite different from the fallen
towns of Flanders. There are no mouldering
ramparts here, and very few uneven causeways,
but broad boulevards, shaded by trees ; handsome
modern houses ; wooden paveinents in some parts ;
a Bourse ; arcades and bazaars ; tempting shops,
their windows decked with Parisian art ; theatres
and music-halls ; glittering restaurants and ex
pensive hotels. It is all modern, spacious, full of
movement. While Bruges and Ypres live chiefly
17 3

18 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
in the past, Brussels lives chiefly in the present
and the future. But in the middle of the city is
the famous Grande Place ; and the tall houses,
so gloriously picturesque with pointed gables and
gilded cornices ; and the exquisite Hotel de Ville
with its curiously carved facade and steep roof
pierced by innumerable little windows, above which
the graceful spire, that ' miracle of needlework in
stone,' has towered for 500 years. Here, as
everywhere in the Netherlands, the traditions of
the past are imperishable ; and we may look back
and see how this bright, gay, pleasant city — the
' petit Paris,' as its people love to call it — rose and
grew. Old Brabant extended from beyond Tournai on
the west to what is now the Dutch frontier beyond
Turnhout on the east, and from the neighbourhood
of Ghent nearly to Liege. Just north of the
forest of Soignies a ridge of undulating hills over
looked the little River Senne, which wound along
eastwards through sandbanks and brushwood. On
an island in this stream, according to tradition, a
chapel was built by St. Gery, Bishop of Cambrai ;
a watch-tower, afterwards named the Tower of
St. Nicholas, was erected on a hillock near the
island ; wooden houses, with thatched roofs, began

BRUSSELS
Place de Brouckere.

THE DUKES OF BRABANT 19
to appear on the banks and here and there on the
steep hillside up which pathways, afterwards to
become streets, clambered towards a promontory
called the Coudenberg, or Cold Mountain ; a market
was established ; and the village became known as
Bruxelles, or (at least so it is said) 'the house in
the swamp,' from bruc, swamp, and celle, house.
From a long time, in the early tales about
Brabant, there are the usual legends of warriors
and saints ; but when we reach the period of
authentic history there are four chief towns,
Louvain, Brussels, Antwerp, and Bois-le-Duc. Of
these the most important was Louvain. In 1190
the Counts of Louvain became Dukes of Brabant.
They built a castle on the Coudenberg, and for the
next 300 years the Court of Brabant was celebrated
for its power and splendour.
Lying in the midst of a fertile district, and on
the trade-route from Flanders to Germany, Brussels
was a convenient stopping- place for travellers. But
in the Middle Ages, when Bruges, Ghent, Ypres,
and other places were so prosperous, the history of
Brussels is less eventful ; and it was only when the
famous Flemish cities were about to fall that the
town on the Senne became an important centre of
industry. Its population, too, increased rapidly,
3—2

20 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
owing to the numbers of workmen who came from
Louvain in consequence of commercial troubles
there. So trade flourished, and Brussels grew rich ; but
the continual wars which desolated France, the chief
market for the manufactures of the Netherlands,
did harm to the linen trade, which suffered also
from the keen competition of English merchants.
The raw material came from England, and by pro
hibiting the exportation of wool England was able
to wellnigh ruin this branch of the trade of
Flanders and Brabant. Fortunately, however, for
Brussels, the introduction of new industries at this
critical time made the damage to the linen trade
less fatal, and with the growth of flax-weaving, the
art of tapestry-making, dye-works, and the produc
tion of valuable armour, the town more than held
its own.
Luxury and display followed, as usual, in the
train of wealth, and Brussels became a city of
pleasure, of fdtes, and gorgeous festivals. The
Court of Brabant was one of the most luxurious
and dissolute in Europe. The Dukes set an
example of extravagance which was followed by
the Barons who surrounded them, and also by the
rich bourgeois. ' The people alone,' we are told,

THE DUKES OF BRABANT 21
'that is to say, the men without leisure, the
artisans, remained apart from excesses.' There
was luxury in dress, in armour, in furniture. The
rich went about clad in gold brocades and other
costly stuffs, attended by servants in fine liveries.
Their horses were richly caparisoned, and their
wives and daughters spent large sums on magni
ficent robes, and decked themselves with jewels,
and garlands from the rose-gardens for which
Brussels was already famous.
Every occasion for a fete was eagerly welcomed.
Not only was there the yearly ' Ommegang,' that
time-honoured procession through the streets of
triumphal cars, bands of music, and giants, which
delighted the people of Brabant and Flanders, but
each separate guild and confraternity had its own
festival. In private life every event — a birth, a
baptism, a marriage, or a death — was an excuse for
spending money on display. To such an extent,
indeed, was this carried, that rules were made for
bidding invitations being sent except to near
relatives, to prevent people going to f§tes without
being asked, and at length even to put some limit
on the value of the presents which it was customary
to give to guests. The licentious and wasteful
habits of the jeunesse doree became so notorious,

22 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
that there was a lock-up at each of the city gates
for the benefit of young men who were living too
fast. In such a state of society the money-lender
saw his chance ; but a law was passed making it
illegal for anyone to sign a promissory note, or
anticipate his inheritance, before reaching the age
of twenty-eight. Brussels was full of taverns, and
there were parts of the town where every house
was occupied by women of easy virtue. Fortunes
were recklessly squandered, and most of the nobles
are said to have been insolvent, and to have left
heavy debts behind them.
Not a vestige remains of the wall which sur
rounded this mediaeval Brussels except the Porte
de Hal, at the corner where the modern Boulevard
de Waterloo meets the Boulevard du Midi ; and
the H6tel de Ville and the guild-houses in the
Grande Place have undergone many changes since
the fourteenth century. A great part of the
Church of Ste. Gudule, however — the choir and
transept, part of the nave, and the south aisle — was
built in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries ;
and during that period Notre Dame de la Chapelle
and Notre Dame du Sablon rose on the founda
tions of more ancient churches. The houses, even
of the rich, were still of wood, with sometimes a

THE DUKES OF BRABANT 23
tower of stone, built irregularly on the hillside
which rose from the valley of the Senne, each house
standing by itself, with its thatched roof, from
which in winter the rain or melted snow poured
(there were, of course, no gutters then), and found
its way down to the lower ground, which was thus
little better than a swamp, even long after Brussels
had become an important city. It was in the
midst of this mixture of discomfort and luxury, so
characteristic of the Middle Ages, that the people
of Brussels, and of Brabant generally, passed their
lives — gay, joyous, dissolute, but always with an
eye to the main chance, and growing richer and
richer. And in one thing Brabant differed greatly
from Flanders. While in Flanders the towns were
generally at deadly feud with each other — Bruges
fighting with Ghent, and Ghent at enmity with
Ypres, with each town divided into hostile factions,
such as the Leliarts and Clauwerts, within its own
walls, the people of Brabant seem to have lived at
peace with each other, and, as a rule, to have made
it their first business always to combine for the
defence of their common interests. And in the
middle of the fourteenth century came a time
which called for mutual reliance.
The last Duke of Brabant in the male line of the

24 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
House of Louvain was Jean III. He died in 1355,
leaving no heir male ; and thus the succession fell
to his daughter Jeanne,* who had married Wencelas,
brother of Charles IV. of Luxembourg.
From time immemorial the rulers of Brabant, on
succeeding to the throne, had taken an oath to
maintain the liberty of their subjects ; and many
charters confirming ancient rights and privileges
had been drawn up for the towns and communes.
Before recognising the Duchess Jeanne and her
husband, the towns of Brabant addressed to them
a series of demands, which they requested the new
rulers to accept. These took the form of a charter
enumerating and confirming all the points which
constituted public liberty in Brabant ; and this
charter received the name of the Joyeuse Entree
(or Blyde Incompste), because it was hailed with
such applause by the representatives of the people.
The inauguration of the Duchess Jeanne and
Wencelas took place at Louvain on January 3,
1356, when they swore to maintain all the ancient
privileges of the country. Thereafter the act of
inauguration of each ruler of Brabant was known
as his Joyeuse Entree, and each Joyeuse Entre'e
was a development of acts declaring public rights
* Born at Brussels, June 24, 1322.

THE JOYEUSE ENTREE 25
which had previously existed, just as Magna Charta
was founded on the older liberties of England.
Each Duke had his Joyeuse Entre'e, which he
accepted sometimes with as little goodwill as King
John felt at Runnymede. Thus, this famous
constitution, the best known and the most
liberal of all the free charters in the Netherlands,
was not a parchment drawn up at one time, but
a declaration of public rights which gradually
developed.* ' The inauguration of a Duke of Brabant was a
splendid and imposing ceremony. The Prince,
who was lord of the noble Duchy, went to make
himself known to his subjects, and to confirm the
relations which secured both his and their happi
ness. He arrived, with his courtiers, at the ancient
capital of Brabant, Louvain. As he descended the
Brussels road he saw from afar the cradle of his
ancestors, with its steeples, towers, and majestic
walls, in the rich valley of the Dyle. Before enter
ing, the heir of the old Counts of Louvain stopped
for a little at the gates of the city, in the Monastery
* The text of the Joyeuse Entree of Jeanne and Wencelas
is given by Abbe Nameche, vol. iv., pp. 671-679, and the
latest form which it took will be found in Poullet's Histoire
de la Joyeuse Entrte de Brabant, pp. 339-350. 4

26 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
of Terbanck, where, in the midst of an immense
crowd, the clergy, the officers of the University, and
the magistrates, came to greet him. The brilliant
assemblage then went into the chapel, where the
Abbess of Terbanck, at the altar, took the crucifix
and gave it to the highest dignitary of the Church
who was present, and he, approaching the Duke,
gave it him to kiss. The Rector of the University
made an oration in the name of the University and
the clergy. The Mayor placed in the Duke's
hands the red staff of justice, emblem of his office.
The Burgomaster gave him the keys of the city ;
and the Pensionary of Louvain welcomed him on
behalf of all the local magistrates. Then the pro
cession, to the sound of trumpets, went forth on
horseback through the gates, the Duke and his
Councillors, the States of Brabant, and the magis
trates of Louvain, to the Church of St. Pierre,
where they all dismounted and entered the choir ;
and there, after prayers had been said, the Prince
swore to maintain the liberties and privileges of
the Church in Brabant. Thence they went to the
market-place, which was between the church and
the Hotel de Ville. The Duke took his stand on
a platform with the representatives of the people
of Brabant, and the Chancellor announced that he

THE JOYEUSE ENTREE 27
was about to swear his Joyeuse Entre'e. The Act
of Inauguration was read, first in Flemish and
then in French, and the Duke repeated it word
for word, and took an oath to the barons, nobles,
towns, and franchises of the Duchy, that he would
be their good and loyal seigneur, and that he
would not treat them otherwise than justly, and
in accordance with all their rights. They clothed
the Duke in a robe of crimson trimmed with
ermine, and put the ducal coronet of Brabant upon
his head. The States swore fidelity to him. The
trumpets sounded. The air was filled with acclama
tions ; and the heralds' voices crying, " Long live
the Duke of Brabant !" told the Duchy that another
ruler had taken possession of his heritage in accord
ance with ancient custom.'*
The ' States ' of Brabant grew out of the primi
tive method of government by an assembly of the
people in the market - place, where each vassal
voted in person. Later, chosen representatives
alone voted ; and at the end of the fourteenth
century the clergy began to attend as a separate
order in the assembly. The name of ' Etats ' was
not used in Brabant till 1421, when the nobles,
clergy, and commons called themselves the States
* Poullet, p. 3.
4—2

28 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
of Brabant.* Side by side with the States grew
up the Council of Brabant, which was originally a
consulting body, a judicial council to assist the
Duke in administering the law, but which gradually
came to concern itself with the management of
local affairs, while the States conducted the public
business of the duchy.
Soon after the inauguration of Jeanne and
Wencelas, the jealous and ambitious Louis of
Maele, Count of Flanders, who had married
Jeanne's sister Marguerite, made war upon
Brabant, and the struggle continued for years.
Wencelas, whom Froissart describes as a wise and
gallant man, was at last quite worn out by the
troubles which beset him. He spent the winter
and summer of 1382-1383 at Brussels with his wife,
and tried to forget his sorrows in hunting, and in a
round of balls and tournaments. But his health
was ruined, and, having gone to breathe his native
* ' Mais bientot les interets communs formerent des Asso
ciations particulieres dans le seins meme de l'assemblee. Les
nobles etaient unis par le droit de la feodalite ; au treizieme
et au quatorzieme siecle, les villes Braban^onnes conclurent
entre elles des traites d'alliance, et de la forigine des ordres.
On sentit alors Tinconvenient du vote individuel, et Ton
admit que les individualites particulieres seraient liees par la
majority des suffrages dans le meme ordre1 : (Poullet, p. 45).

THE JOYEUSE ENTREE 29
air in Luxembourg, he died there on Decem
ber 3, 1383.
The Duchess Jeanne, who survived her husband
for thirteen years, years of constant trouble, died
on December 1, 1406, at the age of eighty, after
a reign of fifty years, and was buried in the old
church of the Carmelites at Brussels. On her
death the duchy of Brabant passed, by a family
arrangement, to the House of Burgundy.*
Under the House of Burgundy, during the fif
teenth century Brussels became more than ever
a city of pomp, gaiety, and pleasure. For nearly
half a century of this period the history of Brabant
is full of the names of Philip the Good and Charles
the Bold. Philip lived generally at Brussels, and
this brought to the town so many Frenchmen that
French became the language of the Court and the
fashionable tongue amongst the noblesse. The old
castle or palace of the Dukes of Brabant on the
* Wencelas and Jeanne had no children. Jeanne made a
will leaving the Duchy of Brabant to her niece Marguerite
(daughter of Louis of Maele and her sister), who had married
Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. Philip the Bold and
Marguerite of Maele had two sons — Jean, who became Duke
of Burgundy and Count of Flanders on the death of his
father ; and Antoine, who became Duke of Brabant on the
death of his mother.

30 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
Coudenberg was enlarged, and beautified by the
addition of the Great Hall, where the Knights of the
Golden Fleece, whose Order Philip founded, used
to hold their Chapters, and which in later days was
to witness the imposing spectacle of the abdication
of Charles V. The boundaries of the park were
extended, walls were built round it, and it was
stocked with game. Bishops and nobles built
themselves great mansions. The first stone of the
magnificent Hotel de Ville had been carved at the
beginning of the century, and in 1444 Charles the
Bold, then only ten years old, laid the foundations
of the lofty spire, on the summit of which ten
years later was placed that gilded statue of
St. Michael which is there to this day. The
Burgundian Library still remains, with its wealth
of illuminated manuscripts and rare books ; and
the paintings of Roger van der Weyden and his
cotemporaries show how art flourished at Brussels
in the fifteenth century.
Unlike Philip, Charles the Bold detested the
people of Brussels. His father, he said, had
increased their riches and their pride beyond
measure. He attacked the States of Brabant, and
threatened to pull down the walls and gates of
Brussels. And when, after sweeping like a tempest

BRUSSELS
Entrance to the old church of the Carmelites.

THE JOYEUSE ENTREE 31
over .Europe, he died before the walls of Nancy in
J 477* and the male 'line of the House of Burgundy
came. to an end, it was seen that the wide domain
over which his family had reigned so proudly, and
which he ' left to his daughter Marie, was torn
by internal dissensions, and that the people of
Brabant and Flanders were smarting under the
inroads which had been made upon their ancient
privileges. The Duchess Marie succeeded to a splendid
inheritance, but her position was full of difficulty.
Her treasury was empty. She had no army at
her command. Popular discontent was growing.
Her father had made the haughty burghers of
Ghent bow before him, but as soon as he was dead
they rose again. Ghent, Bruges, Brussels, all
Brabant, were seething with disaffection. Pay
ment of the taxes was refused and the officers
of the Government were ill-treated. And, more
over, Hannibal was at the gates, in the person
of Louis XL, who had rejoiced on hearing of
the fate of Charles the Bold. The inauguration
of Marie took place at the end of May, 1477,
five months after her father's death ; and her
Joyeuse Entre'e not only renewed the public
rights which Philip and Charles had infringed,

32 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
but placed fresh restrictions on the power of the
future rulers of Brabant.
The marriage of the young Duchess to some
husband who could defend her rights was seen
to be the only means of preserving the peace of
the country. Her distrust of Louis XL led her to
refuse an alliance with a French Prince. She
chose the Archduke Maximilian of Austria, and
thus the fortunes of Brabant and Flanders were
united with the fortunes of the House of Haps-
burg, and the opportunity of peacefully absorbing
Belgium was lost to France.
The marriage was celebrated in August, 1477.
Five years later Marie died, leaving a son — the boy,
then four years of age, who was afterwards known
as Philip the Fair. He in turn married Joanna,
daughter of Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain ; and
the offspring of this marriage was the Great
Emperor Charles V., during whose reign the
capital of Brabant was more brilliant than ever.
No story is better known than the story of how
in the evil days, when Philip II. ruled the ' Spanish
Netherlands ' in the interests of the Church, Br£de-
rode and his friends, hearing of Berlaimont's scorn
ful words, assumed the name of ' Beggars,' by
which their party was afterwards known. But

END OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY S3
how typical it is ! How full their doings are of
the gay spirit of Brabant ! It is springtime,
fresh and bright, when the confederate nobles leave
the mansion of Count Kuilemburg,* a brilliant
company of handsome, hot-blooded men of fashion
and high birth, bearded all, and dressed in the
elaborate finery of that time, and walk to the
palace, where Margaret of Parma awaits them.
They pass along the roadway which crowns the
ridge, overlooking the multitude of pointed roofs
below them to the left, with the spire of the H6tel
de Ville rising from where an opening among the
housetops marks the situation of the Grande Place,
where so many of them are afterwards to lay down
their lives. The majestic towers of Ste. Gudule stand
out above the houses which cluster round them
on the plateau of St. Michael. In front of them
is the palace, and beyond it the green glades and
pleasure-grounds of the park. A crowd of people,
who have climbed up from the lower town by the
long steep way known as La Chause"e and the
Montagne de la Cour, greet them with cheers at
the entrance of the palace. The doors of that
magnificent dwelling receive the glittering band,
who go with gay insouciance to their momentous
* In what is now the Rue des Petits Cannes. 5

34 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
interview, and come out from it in the same spirit.
They walk about the streets, and pass Berlaimont,
who is talking to Arenberg. ' Look at our fine
beggars !' says Berlaimont. ' How they ruffle it
before us !' They sup at Kuilemburg's. Brederode
repeats Berlaimont's jest against them. They take
it up. They toast ' The Beggars.' They dress
themselves up as beggars, with leathern wallets
and wooden bowls. They laugh, and spill their
wine about, drain more bumpers to the Beggars'
health, dance on the tables, and shout ' Vivent les
Gueux !'* Not even the grave face of Orange,
who comes in, can stop the revel. And next day
they lay aside their fine clothes, dress themselves,
their families, and their servants as beggar^, shave
off their beards, and go about with wallets and
bowls. This was the spirit of the masquerade, of the
carnival, the Kermesse ; and thirty years later,
when for a whole generation the country had
suffered unexampled miseries, and most of the
beggars of 1566 had perished by a violent death,
* ' Then for the first time, from the lips of those reckless
nobles, rose the famous cry, which was so often to ring over
land and sea, amid blazing cities, on blood-stained decks,
through the smoke and carnage of many a stricken field.1 —
Motley : Rise of the Dutch Republic.

END OF THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY 35
the arrival of the Archduke Ernest as Governor of
Brabant was made the occasion for a grotesque dis
play — * a stately procession of knights and burghers
in historical and mythological costumes, followed
by ships, dromedaries, elephants, whales, giants,
dragons.' A strange people. The Dutch had
fought with all the courage of the Nervii, and
gained their freedom. The Belgians, descendants
of the Nervii, had been slaughtered, defeated,
tortured, and made slaves, had seen their country
laid waste, and their cherished liberties taken from
them wholesale ; and yet, when all was lost and the
heel of the oppressor was planted firmly on their
necks, they were made happy by a circus pro
cession.

5—2

THE BOMBARDMENT OF 1695— THE
GRANDE PLACE— CHURCH OF
STE. GUDULE— CHARLES
OF LORRAINE

CHAPTER III
THE BOMBARDMENT OF 1695 — THE GRANDE PLACE
— CHURCH OF STE. GUDULE — CHARLES OF
LORRAINE
The sixteenth century closes with the cession by
Philip II. of the Spanish Netherlands to his
daughter Isabella, as a dowry on her marriage to
the Archduke Albert of Austria. The King died
on September 13, 1598, and a year later the
Infanta and her husband entered Brabant. When
they rode through Brussels in the state procession,
the Infanta's saddle was studded with diamonds
and rubies to the value of 200,000 florins. The
magistrates presented them with a magnificent
service of silver plate. There were fetes, fireworks,
and illuminations, which lasted for three days.
On a medal struck to commemorate this occasion,
we see them seated in a triumphal chair, surrounded
by sunbeams, and with olive branches in their
hands. The condition of the country was deplor
able, but the evils of the time seemed all forgotten
39

40 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
in the midst of a round of festivities. The private
virtues of Isabella and her husband made them
popular, but, needless to say, Belgium was the
battle-field of Europe during most of the seven
teenth century.
These almost incessant wars culminated, so far
as Brussels was concerned, in the bombardment of
August, 1695. For twenty years the city had
been menaced with destruction. It is said that
Antoinette Bourignon, a noted adventuress and
soothsayer, who died in 1681, had foretold that the
capital of Brabant would perish by fire, and this
was remembered when, in the summer of 1695,
Villeroi, failing to relieve Namur, which William III.
was then besieging, marched on Brussels with an
army 70,000 strong.
In the first week of August it became known
that an immense store of bombs had been prepared
at Mons, and that Villeroi was at Enghien. The
French left that place on the 10th, and next
day encamped at Anderlecht, close to Brussels.
Preparations were made for defence. The Guilds
furnished men ; the avenues between the Porte de
Namur and the Porte de Hal were fortified ; and
the low-lying grounds were inundated. But the
French came nearer ; and on the 13th Villeroi sent

THE BOMBARDMENT OF 1695 41
in a message saying that the Most Christian King
had ordered him to bombard the town in retaliation
for the way in which the English and Dutch fleets
had treated the seaports of France ; that, as
vengeance was repugnant to the goodness of his
master, he had been commanded to say that if the
allies would in future refrain from such modes of
warfare, he would do the same by them, and retire
from before the city if, within six hours, he received
a definite answer of such a nature that he could
accept it.
On receiving this ultimatum, the magistrates
asked for time to communicate with the Elector
and the King of England. An hour and a half
was granted, but as no answer had been sent when
that time expired, some bombs were thrown, and
one man was killed on the Montagne de la Cour.
Presently a message arrived from the Elector
asking for a delay of twenty-four hours, so that he
might send for the opinion of King William.
Villeroi's reply was to commence the bombardment
at once, and forthwith bomb-shells and red-hot shot
came pouring on the town.
The cannonade began at seven in the evening,
and continued all night and during part of next
morning. The whole city was in wild confusion, 6

42 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
the people flying for refuge, as their dwellings took
fire. There was a strong wind blowing from the
west, and the flames spread from one house to
another along the narrow streets, especially in the
centre of the town, which was soon blazing like a
vast furnace. It is said that nearly 4,000 houses
were burned to the ground, and many damaged
beyond repair. In the Grande Place, the Hotel
de Ville, the Brodhuis, and other old buildings
were almost totally destroyed. The Church of
St. Nicholas, the tower of which was the belfry of
Brussels, sank in ruins. Many sick persons
perished in burning hospitals. Convents and
churches were shattered, and their ornaments,
paintings, and archives disappeared. The old
church of the Carmelites was entirely destroyed,
and of the tomb of Jeanne, the last Duchess of
Brabant, who was buried in the choir, not a trace
remained. When the work of destruction was
finished, and the French retired, it was seen that a
great part of the city was lying in ruins.
Before the bombardment, the Hotel de Ville
was nearly in its original condition ; but now the
west side was demolished by the bomb -shells, the
roof had been consumed by the flames, and the
whole building, with the exception of the spire and

THE GRANDE PLACE 43
the west front, was almost entirely destroyed. So
that the H6tel de Ville of Brussels, as we see it
now, is, except the spire and the facade towards
the Grande Place, much changed from what it was
previously to 1695.* So are the guild-houses —
l'Etoile, the first house next to the H6tel de Ville,
looking from the Grande Place, in the fourteenth
century the headquarters of the Amman, or head
of the trades, and once a tavern surrounded by a
garden; Le Cygne, next to l'Etoile, which had
been rebuilt in 1523 with a facade of wood ; the
Maison des Brasseurs, in the seventeenth century
the guild-house of the brewers, and now a cafe,
surmounted by a modern statue of Charles of
Lorraine. These houses, and many more, suffered
from the French shot, and had to be practically
rebuilt. The most interesting building in the Grande
Place, with the exception of the Hotel de Ville, is
that in the north-east corner, opposite the Hdtel
de Ville. It is now called the ' Maison du Roi,'
but is known to history as the ' Brodhuis,' because
a list of the current prices for bread used to be put
* There is an engraving showing the ruins of the Grande
Place in 1695 in Wauters' Histoire de la Ville de Bruxelles,
vol. ii., p. 132.
6—2

44 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
up there, when it was a dependance of the H6tel
de Ville. It was so much damaged by the bom
bardment that it had to be entirely pulled down,
but was rebuilt exactly on the original place in
every detail. It was in the original Brodhuis that
Egmont and Horn were imprisoned, and led forth
to execution in the Grande Place on June 5, 1568.
The large chamber on the third story, now the
Communal Museum, is on the site of the room in
which Egmont passed his last night, and is exactly
the same, except that the present roof is higher. So
well was the restoration of this beautiful building
done, that no great effort of imagination is needed
to picture the last scenes of that dismal tragedy.
Nothing remains of the first Church of Ste. Gudule,
which is said to have stood on the spot now occupied
by the nave, and to have been erected there early
in the eleventh century, on the site of a still older
church. The present building dates from the
thirteenth century. It suffered at the hands of
the Reformers during the religious troubles of the
sixteenth century, having been sacked and pillaged
on June 6, 1579. The clergy had the foresight to
carry away most of their treasures before the storm
burst ; but many tombs and monuments were
ruthlessly destroyed. The vault of the Dukes of

BRUSSELS
The Cathedral of Ste. Gudule.

THE GRANDE PLACE 45
Brabant was violated ; but in 1585, after the
return of the Spaniards, the remains which had
been torn from their coffins and scattered about
were collected and placed in a large wooden chest.
In May, 1834, when the vault was opened for the
burial of the Prince Royal, son of Leopold I., and
brother of the present King of the Belgians, a
number of bones were found lying on the ground —
the bones of the Dukes and Princes of the lordly
House of Brabant, the chest which contained them
having mouldered away.
During the French occupation, Ste. Gudule,
which had passed uninjured through Villeroi's
bombardment, was closed for two years, from 1798
to 1800, and there was a proposal to pull it down
to make way for a theatre.
By that time, however, Brussels had several
theatres ; and of these the best known was the
Thdatre de la Monnaie. Until the works of the
great French dramatists were introduced, the only
spectacles of the nature of stage-plays known in
Brussels were long, dull pieces in the form
generally of mystery plays. For instance, in the
sixteenth century they acted, at the Convent of
the Carmelites, the ' Tragedy of the Passion.' In
this piece, which was in three acts, there was a

46 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
chorus of children dressed as angels. News was
brought to the wife of Malchus that St. Peter had
cut off her husband's ear, on which the angels
sang: ' Quand Pierrot coupit
A Malchus l'oreille
Le Seigneur lui dit ;
Turelututu renguaine, renguaine,
Turelututu renguaine, renguaine ton coiitiau,
Dans son fouriau.''
It was a great change from monkish doggerel
like this to the French dramas, which, after being
first played privately at the houses of some of the
nobility, soon reached the general public, and
created the demand for a theatre. In 1698 the
old Mint House, which stood in the Place de la
Monnaie, at that time a narrow thoroughfare
blocked up by wooden buildings, was bought by
an architect, Jean Paul Bombarda. He obtained
leave to erect a ' H6tel des Spectacles,' and was
granted a monopoly of playing operas and comedies,
and giving balls, for thirty years from January,
1705. But one manager after another failed, and
it seemed as if the theatre must close its doors,
when the actors themselves formed in 1766 a
company on the model of the Come'die Francaise,
which afterwards received a subsidy from the city.

CHARLES OF LORRAINE 47
From that time the fortunes of the Theatre de la
Monnaie, now so well known, began to mend.
The present building dates from 1817.
It was during the peaceable reign of Maria
Theresa — peaceable, at least, so far as the soil of
Belgium was concerned — that the theatre became
so popular in Brussels. Brabant was then free
from the troubles which had so often interfered
with progress in more important things than the
stage ; and the people of the capital were kept in
good-humour by the popularity of Duke Charles
of Lorraine, who became Governor of the Austrian
Netherlands in 1741.
In March, 1744, he came to live permanently in
Brussels, accompanied by his wife, the Archduchess
Marie, sister of Maria Theresa. They entered by
the Alle'e Verte, then and for a long time after the
fashionable promenade of Brussels. A battalion
of the English Horse Guards was drawn up on
the meadows at the side of the avenue. The Duke
reviewed these troops ; and then the cavalcade
started along that green way from the Palace of
Laeken, which so many joyful bands have trodden.
The Horse Guards led the procession. Then came
Charles of Lorraine in a carriage, followed by
Ministers of State, and the lords and gentlemen of

48 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
the Court, attended by some squadrons of English
cavalry. At the Porte de Laeken, the burgo
master, kneeling reverently, presented the keys
of the city in a silver basin. Thence they went
through the streets to the Hotel de Ville, and
up the Rue de la Montagne to the Church of
Ste. Gudule, where they were received by the
Cardinal Archbishop of Malines and his clergy,
who said mass. In the evening every street and
square in Brussels blazed with illuminations.
That day was the beginning of a long period of
gaiety for the pleasure-loving city. No ruler could
have suited the people of Brussels better than
Charles of Lorraine. The annals of his time are
full of merrymaking, the accounts of which enable
us, perhaps better than graver histories do, to
understand the Court of the Austrian Netherlands
in the long reign of Maria Theresa.
In February, 1752, we find the Duke giving
a ' Venetian Fete ' in the palace of the Duc d'Aren-
berg, at which all the gay people in Brussels were
present. There were four quadrilles, the first
consisting of eight ladies and gentlemen dressed
as gardeners, the second of pilgrims, the third
and fourth of peasants and sailors. A masked
supper followed the dancing, and at midnight all

CHARLES OF LORRAINE 49
the company, still in their masks, drove in open
carriages through the streets. The coachmen were
masked, as were the grooms who rode beside each
carriage with torches, and so were the musicians
who played before and after them on their way to
the Theatre de la Monnaie, where they danced and
feasted and gambled till morning.
Charles of Lorraine lived generally at the
chateau of Tervueren, where he spent large sums
on stocking the woods and lakes with game and
fish. ' What I must put in my park at Tervueren,'
he notes in his private diary — ' 8 roe bucks, 150
hares, 100 pheasants, 4 wood cocks, 6 grey hens,
10 Guinea fowls, 50 partridges, 20 red partridges,
100 wild ducks. Of fish— 600 tortoises, 300 crabs,
200 trout, 100 sturgeons.'
Every day he jotted down in his diary all his
doings, all his petty cash payments, what the
members of his Court did, and even the names
of their mistresses. The Duc d'Arenberg gives
jewels to La Nogentelle, a danseuse at the
Monnaie. The Dutch Minister is ruining himself
for La Cintray, another dancer ; and the English
Minister has lost his head over Mademoiselle
Durancy. The Prince de Ligne and M. Androuins
spent much time and money in company with the
7

50 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
sisters Eugenie and Angelique d'Hannetaire.
M. d'Hannetaire, the father of these young women,
had begun life as a comedian in Brussels, and was
now manager of the Monnaie. He had three
daughters, who went in the demi-monde by the
name of the Three Graces, and used their father's
house as a place of assignation for gentlemen of
quality. D'Hannetaire is said to have been luckier
than most managers, and to have made a large
fortune, much of it by the faro-table in the foyer of
his theatre, where at that time heavy gambling went
on every night.
Duke Charles was a great gourmet, and gave
famous dinners, and, of course, makes a note of
the wines. Burgundy was evidently his own
favourite tipple. He drank at least a bottle at
every meal ; but there was Rhine wine, Champagne,
Bordeaux, and Tokay for his guests, not to speak
of cognac, maraschino, and other liqueurs, all of
the very best. He had red partridges sent from
the Tyrol ; and his cash-book records '114 livres
paid to an express from Venice with a barrel of
tunny-fish in oil, and for another express from
Hamburg with a barrel of English oysters and
black mussels.' In the official calendar of this jovial
Prince the names of all who worked in his kitchen

CHARLES OF LORRAINE 51
are given, from the head chef down to the turnspits.
The name of the Chef Rotisseur, curiously enough,
was Rognon. The Comte de Sart held the im
portant office of Grand Maitre des Cuisines.
He was the darling of Brussels, and so much
loved that in the year 1766, when he was very ill,
the churches were never empty all day long, so
many pious people went to pray for his recovery.
When his health was restored there were all sorts
of festivities : the fountains spouted wine ; half
the town got drunk ; the Prince de Ligne had
an ox roasted whole on the street in front of his
mansion and given to the poor ; and the first time
the Duke appeared at the theatre there was so
much applause that the performance was stopped,
and his doctor, who was seen in a box, was cheered
again and again for having cured his patient.
Three years later, on the twenty -fifth anni
versary of his coming to Brabant, there were fisltes
which continued for days. The Hotel de Ville,
the Brodhuis, and all the Grande Place glittered
with coloured lights. The Comte de Sart illu
minated his house with 1,000 red and yellow
lanterns. There was a great banquet in the Hotel
de Ville, where 1,400 guests, the ladies seated and
the gentlemen standing, were waited on by
7—2

52 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
200 grenadiers, and a free performance at the
theatre, where two glasses of punch were given
to each spectator. Medals were struck to com
memorate the event. The town of Brussels pre
sented the Duke with 25,000 florins, and the States
of Brabant voted him a statue and 40,000 florins.
There never was a Prince so popular or so
respected in Brussels before or after him, and he
had thirty-six long years of it. But the revels
came to an end in July, 1780, when he died at his
chateau at Tervueren, and was buried in the Church
of Ste. Gudule, in the vault of Albert and Isabella.
Five months later the news reached Brussels
that the Empress Maria Theresa had died at
Vienna ; and on the evening of December 23 a
funeral service was held in Ste. Gudule. Mass
being ended, the heralds, standing at the high
altar, proclaimed the titles of the late Empress.
Then one of them said in solemn tones : ' She
is dead ; may God have mercy on her soul.' And
as the clergy intoned the De Profundis, sobs were
heard in every corner of the dark, vast building,
amidst which Toison d'Or, King -at -Arms, took
up the sword of State, and, holding it high above
his head, cried with a loud voice : ' Long live
Joseph the Second, our Sovereign !'

JOSEPH II. AND THE REVOLUTION OF
BRABANT

CHAPTER IV
JOSEPH II. AND THE REVOLUTION OF BRABANT
It was difficult to follow an Empress like Maria
Theresa, or to find a successor to Charles of
Lorraine in the government of the Austrian
Netherlands. But if ever a Sovereign came to a
throne full of good intentions it was Joseph II. ;
and yet, while the easy-going Charles had pleased
the people of Brussels for thirty-six years, the
reforming Joseph had in less than ten caused the
Revolution of Brabant.
It was evident that many reforms were urgent.
For a long time the spirit at least of the constitu
tion of Brabant had suffered from the encroach
ment of the Imperial Government, and the country
was losing its moral fibre. Nor had the peaceful
and happy times of the Empress Maria Theresa
rescued the people from the utter demoralization
which long wars and their own submission to Spain
had brought about. Every sphere of social life
and every department of the Government required
55

56 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
to be overhauled and invigorated. Moreover, the
Austrian Netherlands were as Catholic as ever.
The new light of the eighteenth century had not
reached the clergy, who were still groping about
in mediaeval darkness ; and some fresh system of
educating the priesthood was clearly needed.
Joseph II. might thus have found his task com
paratively easy if he had gone about it in the right
way, and taken counsel with the representatives of
the people before introducing the reforms on which
he was bent. Unfortunately he took a different
line, asserted his personal authority, and tried to
play the double role of an autocrat and a reformer,
with disastrous results.
The Church was speedily offended, for in
November, 1782, the Emperor issued an edict
granting civil liberty to the Protestants, and
allowing them to build churches, to enjoy the
privileges of citizenship, to take University degrees,
and hold public offices. The Bishops protested
against all this, but they were not listened to ; and
another edict allowed Protestants to open schools
in any place where there were a hundred families
of their religion, and to bury their dead according
to their own rites. These measures of toleration
were followed by a decree compelling the religious

THE REVOLUTION OF BRABANT 57
associations to register all their property in a new
office, called the Caisse de Religion. The appeal
to the Pope was abolished ; and the settlement of
disputes connected with marriages was taken from
the Bishops, who saw their judgments submitted
to the approval or disapproval of the civil powers.
Convents were suppressed and turned into barracks
or hospitals. The Emperor did his best to alter
the Catholic liturgy. He drew up a philosophical
catechism of his own invention. He ordered the
use of new vestments. Marriage was to be regarded
as a civil contract, and divorce was to be allowed.
The most fervent adherents of the Church
acknowledged that new schools for the training of
young priests were needed ; but the Emperor tried
to set up a system of his own in defiance of the
views of the clergy. The chief bone of conten
tion on this point was the establishment of the
Se'minaire Gdne'rale for the education of youths
who were intended for the priesthood. The
University of Louvain, the old capital of Brabant,
had been one of the most celebrated seats of learn
ing in Europe ; and there the new seminary was
planted by an edict of October, 1786, which
declared that the existing episcopal schools were
to be abolished, and the clergy of the future to be
8

58 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
educated at the seminary of Louvain. The purpose
of the Emperor, it was announced in an official
proclamation, was to bring back the clergy of the
Netherlands to 'primitive Christianity,' and to
substitute for the monkish system of education
' enthusiasm for their native land and attachment
to the Austrian Monarchy,' to destroy the ' Ultra
montane Hydra,' to teach them science and
philosophy, art and letters, and reveal to them
the lessons and the benefits of modern thought and
progress ; in a word, to make them useful citizens
and give them a liberal education. But the Church
would have none of these things, and in the Catholic
Netherlands the influence of the Church was over
whelming. At Brussels, certainly, the people were not
greatly moved by these attacks on the privileges
of the clergy, nor disturbed at the prospect of
having a cultured priesthood, and only began to
grumble when an attempt was made to interfere
with the Kermesses and national fetes, in which
they so much delighted ; but the Emperor went
on to irritate the States and Council of Brabant,
which the citizens revered as the guardians of their
liberty, and from that moment his enterprise was
doomed to failure.

THE REVOLUTION OF BRABANT 59
The States declared that the Church reforms
were illegal; but the Emperor ignored their
opinion. The Council declared that its privileges
were invaded by the establishment of a new Court
of Appeal at Brussels. And both the States and
the Council protested against other changes in the
system of government on which the Emperor had
set his heart. The Council continued to sit in
defiance of his wishes ; and the States met, and
refused to vote supplies until their grievances were
redressed. The Joyeuse Entre'e had been infringed,
they said ; and soon, not only in Brabant, but in
every part of Belgium, people were talking about
their rights.*
Brabant would not have been Brabant if some
comedy had not been acted on the political stage
at such a time. ' It was at this juncture,' we read,
' that there appeared upon the scene a woman who
played a great role in the Revolution. The Dame
de Bellem, called La Pinaud, after having been a
lady of fashion at Brussels, began to mix herself
up in political discussions with all the impetuosity
* ' On se mit a exhumer et a mediter les textes de nos
anciens privileges. Nobles, clerge, savants, femmes, gens du
peuple, tout le monde parla joyeuse-entree"1 (De Gerlache,
i. 331).
8—2

60 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
of an ardent and passionate heart. Her intimate
relations with the advocate Van der Noot much
contributed, no doubt, to lead her into this path,
where she was followed by her daughter Marianne,
the Muse of this period with little poetry. Both
of them helped the enemies of Austria with their
pens and their influence over the numerous young
men who attended their soirees ; and the smiles of
these two ladies, who are said to have been very
pretty, doubtless gained more partisans to the
Revolutionary cause than the pamphlets of the
mother or the verses of the daughter.'*
Henri Nicolas Van der Noot, advocate and
standing counsel for the trades before the Council
of Brabant, and lover of the Dame de Bellem, was
made President of a Revolutionary Committee at
Brussels, and put his eloquence, which was that of
a mob orator, at the service of the Bishops, who
came forward as the defenders of the Constitution.
In vain Joseph II. protested that he had no wish
to infringe the Joyeuse Entre'e. Van der Noot
thundered, La Pinaud wrote, her daughter can
vassed, the Bishops preached against him. A
service was held in Ste. Gudule to invoke the aid of
Heaven against the S^minaire Ge'ne'rale and all the
* Wauters, ii. 321.

THE REVOLUTION OF BRABANT 61
new ways, and on behalf of the Joyeuse Entrde.
On leaving the church, some young people put on
tricolor cockades, and this badge was soon common
in the streets. Things went from bad to worse,
and on May 18, 1789, Brussels was on the brink of
revolution. An immense crowd filled the Grande Place,
where the States were sitting in the Hotel de Ville
to consider an ultimatum which had come from
Vienna, demanding supplies and the suppression of
the Council of Brabant. The States refused the
supplies, and directed the Council to sit en 'per
manence. The Emperor's Minister, Count Trautt-
mansdorff, by turns implored and threatened.
'Your resistance,' he told them, 'will ruin you.'
' The Emperor,' they replied, ' may destroy us, but
he cannot coerce our consciences or our honour.'
Troops were then marched into the Grande Place.
A squadron of dragoons were drawn up between
the Brodhuis and the Hotel de Ville, and the
States were informed that the Joyeuse Entre'e of
Brabant was suppressed. On this the Marquis de
Prud'homme d'Aillay rose, and said to the Minister :
' Since there is nothing more for us to do here, I am,
sir, your very humble servant,' and left the H6tel
de Ville, followed by all the members of the States.

62 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
The news from Paris, where the clouds were
gathering dark round the head of his sister Marie
Antoinette, might have made Joseph II. pause ;
but, far away in Vienna, he made up his mind to
go on as he had begun. So the Revolution of
Brabant gained force, and Van der Noot was the
popular idol, with all Brussels at his feet. On his
return from a tour of agitation in the provinces he
was received with royal honours : the H6tel de
Ville flung out its red hangings ; and at the doors
of Ste. Gudule he was met by the canons, who
waved incense before him, and placed him on the
Emperor's prie-dieu. He went to the Monnaie,
where ' La Mort de Cesar ' was performed, and the
actor who played Brutus declaimed —
' Sur les debris du trone et de la tyranie,
Du Beige independant s'eleve le genie,1
on which all the spectators rose, waving their hats
and shouting ' Vive la liberte ! Vive Van der Noot !'
and the players crowned the demagogue with
laurels, and hailed him as ' the Lafayette of
Belgium.' The Revolution seemed complete when the
provincial States throughout the Austrian Nether
lands proclaimed their independence, and summoned
a Congress of the United States of Belgium. But

BRUSSELS
Old houses in the Grande Place.

THE REVOLUTION OF BRABANT 63
they needed men of sterner stuff than any who
could be found in the Flanders and Brabant of
that time ; and the end was not long in coming.
The extreme clericals, led by Van der Noot, were
opposed by the followers of the advocate Vonck.
Van der Noot had always relied on the hope of
foreign intervention. Vonck wished the Belgians
to work out their own salvation. Van der Noot
and the Church party were obstinately conserva
tive. Vonck and his party wished to see the
expulsion of the Hapsburgs followed by measures
of reform. The Vonckists had the worst of the
quarrel, for the masses were against them, and
showed their sentiments in a way which those who
know Brussels will understand.* But the leaders
of the other party lacked the ability to make head
against the Austrian troops which marched into
Brabant. The volunteer army of the Catholic
Netherlands, deserted by its Prussian commander,
General Schonfeldt, was disbanded ; and so the
Brabant Revolution came to naught.
* ' On donnait au Manneken ' — the curious little statue in
the Rue du Chene — ' un uniforme de volontaire, et chaque
quartier de la Ville avait son arbre de la liberte charge
d'allegories patriotiques ou anti-Vonckistes ' (Wauters, ii.
393).

64 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
Joseph II. died before the end, and in the midst
of all his troubles. He had yielded much. The
seminary at Louvain was closed, and the Joyeuse
Entre'e was restored. But these concessions came
too late, and, on February 20, 1790, this Sovereign
of good intentions passed away, while whispering
in the ear of the Prince de Ligne, ' Your country
has been my death.'
His brother Leopold reigned in his stead. The
Austrians entered Brussels on December 2, 1790 ;
and a week later the Ministers of Austria, Great
Britain, Russia, and Holland signed the Conven
tion of the Hague, which confirmed to the people
of the Catholic Netherlands all the rights and
privileges which they had enjoyed under the
Empress Maria Theresa. But now the curtain
was about to rise on a new scene in the history of
Brabant and Flanders.

THE JACOBINS OF BRUSSELS-
VISIT OF NAPOLEON— THE HUNDRED
DAYS

CHAPTER V
THE JACOBINS OF BRUSSELS — VISIT OF NAPOLEON —
THE HUNDRED DAYS
' C'est la Belgique,' said Danton, ' qui comblera le
deficit de la Revolution.' The Convention at Paris
saw in the riches of the Austrian Netherlands a
means of filling its treasury, and supporting the
failing credit of France ; and its emissaries knew
how to work upon the people of Brabant and
Flanders. ' Nous avons dvangelis£ partout,' was
the report sent to Paris by one of them, ' in the
streets, in the clubs, in the drinking-shops, in the
theatres. . . . We have covered the walls with
placards, and made the highways resound with our
hymns of liberty. We have dallied with their
fanaticism, and tried to stir up the lower ranks of
the clergy against the higher, and so kill priestcraft
by priestcraft.'
Meantime the army of the Republic had been at
work, and on the field of Fleurus Jourdan com-
67 9—2

68 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
pleted the conquest which Dumouriez had begun
at Jemappes.
Dumouriez, who understood the character of the
people he was dealing with, was all for conciliation.
He did not wish to bring the Jacobins of Paris to
Brussels, and raise up men like Chabot and Marat.
He proclaimed that the French came as friends
and brothers, and promised to secure the in
dependence of the country. Above all things, he
wanted to conciliate the Church. But most of the
Revolutionists sneered at the Catholicism of the
Austrian Netherlands. ' What a pity,' said Camille
Desmoulins, ' that the priests spoil the Belgians so
much. One cannot but wonder at the way in
which these people, while wishing to preserve their
liberty, try also to preserve the cowls of their
monks ;' and Marat, who had no patience with the
moderation of Dumouriez, declared that nothing
would come of the war ' till a true sans-cuhtte
commands our army,' So after Fleurus the
Austrian Netherlands were made part of France.
The moderate democrats of Brabant had been
swamped in the early days of the French Revolu
tion by the extreme men who corresponded with
the Jacobins at Paris ; and some strange scenes
had taken place in the venerable Grande Place

THE JACOBINS OF BRUSSELS 69
of Brussels. A Tree of Liberty was set up there,
round which men, women, and children danced
the carmagnole ; and a mob went up to the Place
Royale chanting the ' fa ira ' and roaring out the
'Marseillaise,' fastened ropes to the statue of
Charles of Lorraine and pulled it down. And it
must have been a curious sight when Dumouriez
gave receptions of an evening, and artisans rubbed
shoulders with men like the Duc d'Ursel and the
Duc d'Arenberg, who at first, like others of the
noblesse, mingled with the red-caps and joined the
Jacobin clubs, which seem to have been quite the
fashion. Ridiculous things were done at the meetings of
the Jacobin clubs. The advocate Charles burns
his diploma, and says he wants no title but sans
culotte, and then goes on to propose that the
names of all the squares and streets of Brussels
be changed. There should, he told his friends,
be Places d'Athknes, de Rome, de France, and
Rues de Jean-Jacques Rousseau, de Brutus, de
Voltaire, de l'Opinion, de la Philosophic du
Divorce. One wiseacre demands that the ancient constitu
tion of Brabant be burned on the following Sunday
during the ceremony of ' The Benediction of the

70 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
Flag of the sans-culottes.' ' Let the bust of Van
der Noot be also burned,' he added ; on which
another statesman rises, and exclaims : ' Je
demande, moi, qu'on promene le Manneken de
Van der Noot avec celui de la Pinaud, sa bonne
amie.' Clearly the sans-culotte of Brussels was a
mere tinsel imitation of the genuine article at
Paris. At Paris all was tragedy ; Brussels amused
itself with a burlesque. But as time went on, and
it dawned upon these would-be Jacobins and sans
culottes that the Revolution meant fighting in the
armies of France, and that everything in Church
and State was to be turned upside-down, they
began to lose their tempers, and long before
October, 1795, when the formal incorporation with
France took place, they were quite tired of mas
querading as Jacobins.
Five years later they were as weary of the
Directory as they had been of the Convention ;
but when, in 1803, Napoleon came to Brussels,
he was well received. There was, however, a
good deal of sham enthusiasm on that occasion,
and his most successful visit was in 1811, when he
brought the Empress Marie Louise with him.
Brussels then showed that, in spite of the Brabant
Revolution, the House of Austria had a strong

VISIT OF NAPOLEON 71
hold on the affections of the citizens. ' Voila Marie
Louise d'Autriche !' was heard in the streets.
The town gave fetes in her honour; and one
evening, when the Empress was at the Monnaie,
and had brought with her a bouquet of tulips from
Harlem, which fell over the edge of her box,
gentlemen ran from all parts of the theatre and
picked up the fragments, which they made into
button-holes. ' L'lmperatrice parut charmee de
cette galanterie Bruxelloise,' says the local account
of this incident.
Napoleon was at Laeken with Marie Louise
when the campaign in Russia was resolved on.
The story goes that on receiving the news that
the Tsar refused to carry out the Continental
System, he began at once to whistle the air of
' Marlborough sen va-t-en guerre,' and ran out
into the grounds of the palace in such a rage
that he nearly knocked the Empress down. It
was at Laeken that the fatal declaration of war
was signed.
As soon as the Allies entered the Netherlands
after the French reverses of 1812 and 1813, they
were made welcome. Between four and five
o'clock on the evening of February 1, 1814, the
French rearguard left Brussels ; and about an hour

72 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
later the first Cossacks, a party of half a dozen,
rode in by the Porte de Louvain, passed quickly
through the city, and went on after the French
army. These scouts were followed by a large force
of cavalry and infantry. The Prussian infantry
found billets, and the Cossacks lay down and slept
beside their horses on the snow in the Rue des
Fripiers,* the townsfolk standing near, and wonder
ing at their strange dress and language. Soon the
town was full of soldiers, some of whom remained
there, while others pressed on to France.
The news that Paris had capitulated reached
Brussels on March 3. The bells were rung, cannon
were fired, and the houses were illuminated. Then,
one after another, the towns which still held out
surrendered. Carnot alone, who was in command
of Antwerp, gave no sign of yielding ; but in the
middle of April, while the last arrangements were
being made for the departure of Napoleon to Elba,
he pulled down the tricolor, and the great strong
hold on the Scheldt fell, with the rest of Belgium,
into the hands of the Allies.
It was almost a fixed rule of international
politics in Europe, when some great war was
* The street which leads from the Place de la Monnaie
towards the Bourse.

VISIT OF NAPOLEON 73
finished and some treaty of peace was on the
boards, that people should ask each other what was
to be done next with the Catholic Netherlands.
The rich inheritance of the House of Burgundy was
passed from hand to hand by Austrians, Spaniards,
and Frenchmen, without any statesman ever con
sidering what might be the wishes of the inhabi
tants ; and now, in 1814, the Great Powers, at first
in secret, resolved to set up a new State, consist
ing of Holland and Belgium united, and call it
the Kingdom of the Netherlands, with William of
Orange-Nassau on the throne. He came to Brussels
in July, 1814, not yet as King, for the Congress
of Vienna was to settle the map of Europe and
parcel out the spoils, but as Governor on behalf of
the Allies ; and at the end of the year his son, the
Prince Royal, took command of the allied army in
Belgium. They had a gay time in Brussels during that
winter of 1814-15, as everyone knows. But on
March 1 the Great Man landed in France ; and
a fortnight later the Orange flag was hoisted in
Brussels, and the new King announced that he
had not intended to assume the royal authority
till the work of the Congress at Vienna was
finished, and all their decisions could be executed
10

74 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
together, but that the recent event in France had
made him resolve to wait no longer.
On April 5 the Duke of Wellington came post
haste from Vienna, and went to live in a house
next door to the Hotel de France, at the corner
of the Rue de la Montagne du Pare and the Rue
Royale. And now during these wonderful Hundred Days,
about which so much has been written, the eyes
of all Europe were fixed on Paris and Brussels.
But there were some good folk living at Ghent,
who considered themselves as the most important
people in the world, as well they might, con
sidering what pains were being taken, and what
oceans of blood were to be shed, in order to make
it safe for them to depart from East Flanders and
go back again to France, whence they had lately
fled in a great hurry.
Louis XVIII. was lying on a sofa at the
Tuileries, suffering excruciating agonies from the
gout, when a despatch was brought to him with
the news that Napoleon had been in France for
the last five days, and was at that moment on
the road to Paris. Instantly preparations were
made for flight, with as much secrecy as they had
been made for that terrible trip in the Berline

THE HUNDRED DAYS 75
on which another Bourbon had set out so many
years before. Everything was kept quiet, and
no one whom it was possible to hoodwink was
trusted. On the night fixed for the departure
one of the Ministers was at the palace. The King
gave him no hint ; but as he was leaving the
captain of the guard whispered : ' We're off in
an hour ; the relays are ordered ; meet us at
Lille.' They started, and had a most uncomfort
able journey. It was pouring rain. The roads
were deep in mud. The royal portmanteau was
stolen with all the royal wardrobe. The royal
gout was most painful ; and at Lille the garrison
was sullen. There were tricolor badges on all
sides. Eagles were pulled out of knapsacks, and
the fleur-de-lis was nowhere to be seen. This
was evidently no place to stay at long; and so
the King crossed the frontier and made for Ghent,
where he had been offered a home in the splendid
mansion of the Comte d'Hane-Steenhuyse.* He
remained there comfortably until after the Battle
of Waterloo.
* This fine house is now No. 63, Rue des Champs, the
residence of the Comte de Bouisies, who married the daughter
of Madame Borluut, a direct descendant of the Comte d'Hane
of 1815.
10—2

76 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
People who came to Brussels in the first week
of June were surprised to find how peaceful the
town was, and how gay. Everyone has read the
narratives of what went on, and the story has been
told over and over again, and nowhere better than
in Vaiiity Fair, which is history in disguise in
the chapters where Amelia invades the Low
Countries. On June 14 Napoleon, having crossed
the frontier, was at Charleroi, on the road to
Brussels, and all Brussels was talking about the
dance which the Duke and Duchess of Richmond
were giving next day at their house in the Rue de
la Blanchisserie, in the ballroom with the paper of
* a trellis pattern with roses.'"*
It was a strange night in Brussels, that night of
June 15, 1815. By eight o'clock the Duke has
given orders for the troops to march at daybreak,
for he knows that Napoleon has crossed the
frontier. Then he goes to the ball to wait for
another despatch. At eleven o'clock, when the
dancing is in full swing, the message reaches him.
He hastens the march by two hours, and the bugles
begin to sound all over the town. ' One could
hear,' says General Brialmont, ' in the ballroom the
rolling of cannon and the steady tramp of the
* Reminiscences of Lady de Ros (Lady Georgina Lennox).

THE HUNDRED DAYS 77
regiments marching towards the forest of Soignies.'
The Duke is in bed and asleep by two o'clock ; but
many of his officers dance on till it is time to rush
off to their regiments.
It would be useless to repeat the story of the
next three days. It has been told a hundred
times. The clear, refreshing dawn ; the soldiers
gathering from their billets ; the partings ; the
regiments marching off, the Black Watch and the
92nd Highlanders with the bagpipes playing before
them, through the park and the Place Royale, and
passing away up the Rue de Namur and along the
road beyond, to where the soft light of early
morning is beginning to shine among the glades of
Soignies ; the sound of heavy firing on the 16th ;
the silence on the 17th, with the news that Blucher
has lost the day at Ligny, and that Wellington is
falling back from Quatre Bras ; the carts and
material of the army moving slowly up the Rue
de Namur all day long ; the awful suspense of the
18th, when no one can rest.
' We walked about nearly all the morning,' says
Lady de Ros, ' being unable to sit still, hearing the
firing, and not knowing what was happening.'
About three o'clock the observant Mr. Creevy
went for a stroll beyond the ramparts. ' I walked

78 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
about two miles out of the town,' he writes,
' towards the army, and a most curious, busy scene
it was, with every kind of thing upon the road, the
Sunday population of Brussels being all out in the
suburbs of the Porte Namur, sitting about tables
drinking beer and making merry, as if races or
other sports were going on, instead of the great
pitched battle which was then fighting.' It was an
hour or so after this that the Cumberland Hussars
came galloping through the Porte de Namur, down
the street and across the Place Royale, shouting
that the French were coming, and raised such a
panic. It was not till late at night that the truth
was known.
And at Ghent ? They had got on there very
well on the whole. The gout was troublesome,
but Louis XVIII. had the enormous appetite of
the Bourbons, and ate a great deal. The Comte
d'Hane gave a big dinner one day, at which the
King managed to consume a hundred oysters for
dessert. Some of the courtiers used to go to a
tavern in the suburbs and eat a small white fish,
a dainty much esteemed at Ghent, which was
caught in the river there. Chateaubriand, who was
one of this Court in exile, was at a dinner where
they sat at table from one o'clock till eight. ' They
began,' he says, ' with sweets and finished with

BRUSSELS
Rue de Namur.

THE HUNDRED DAYS 79
cutlets. The French alone know how to dine with
method.' They played whist, and went to the
theatre. Catalani sang for them at concerts, and
also in private to please the King. When the
royal gout allowed it, the King went to Mass
at the Church of St. Bavon. But during the last
three days His Majesty was very nervous, and kept
his carriage secretly ready for another flight.
On the 18th, Chateaubriand was taking a walk
outside the town near the Brussels gate, when a
courier from Alost rode up with a despatch from
the Duc de Berri. 'Bonaparte,' it said, 'entered
Brussels yesterday, 17 June, after a bloody battle.
The battle was to begin again to-day. The Allies
are said to have been completely defeated, and the
order for retreat given.' All Ghent was in dismay.
The Comte d'Artois arrived and confirmed the bad
news. Many Belgians who had been in the French
army immediately started to take service once more
under Napoleon. Preparations were made for
starting at once ; but at one o'clock next morning
a despatch came with the news of the victory. On
June 22 the King left Ghent, to mount once more
the throne which had been retained for him at such
a cost. The scene of the great battle is wonderfully little
changed since then. The level of the ground at

80 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
the centre of the ridge occupied by the Allies has
been lowered by the removal of earth to make
the Mound of the Belgian Lion ; the tree under
which the Duke of Wellington and his staff stood
at intervals during the day is gone long since ; a
tramway runs past the farm of La Haye Sainte
towards Quatre Bras and Charleroi ; and a number
of houses have been built on the road between
Waterloo and Mont St. Jean. But the general
aspect of the fields on which the fight took place
remains the same. Down to the right, looking
from Mont St. Jean, the chateau of Hougoumont,
half destroyed by shot and fire, still remains as it
was left after the battle, with its orchard walls and
tall, dark trees. The farmhouse of La Haye
Sainte, that scene of carnage, is still where it was,
at the side of the road which leads down the
incline, and then up from the narrow valley to La
Belle Alliance, near which is now the monument
of the Wounded Eagle, a memorial to the last
combatants of the army which fought and lost
with such matchless valour. Every yard of the
ground is sacred. There is, in all the world, no
spot where a Briton and a Frenchman can meet
with more profound emotions of mutual respect
than on the slopes near Mont St. Jean.

WATERLOO
The farm of La Belle Alliance and the mound
surmounted by the Belgian lion.

THE DUTCH GOVERNMENT— THE
REVOLUTION OF 1830

11

CHAPTER VI
THE DUTCH GOVERNMENT — THE REVOLUTION
OF 1830
One day, soon after the Battle of Waterloo, the
Tsar Alexander was at La Belle Alliance with
William, King of the Netherlands, and his son the
Prince of Orange. He asked for a glass of wine,
and drank to ' la belle alliance, not only of nations,
but of families.'
The marriage of the Grand Duchess Anna
Paulo wna to the Prince of Orange had just been
settled ; and all the Courts of Europe believed
that the troublesome question of the Low Countries
was at last finally solved by the union of Holland
and Belgium under the dynasty of Nassau, now to
be allied by marriage with one of the Great Powers
which had placed it on the throne of the new
Kingdom. The English Government had arranged that the
Prince of Orange, heir to the Kingdom of the
83 11—2

84 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
Netherlands, should marry the Princess Charlotte,
heiress to the throne of England ; and their en
gagement had been announced to the States-
General at The Hague in March, 1814. But this
plan had fallen through from the causes with which
everyone is familiar — the objections of the Princess
Charlotte, who did not wish to leave England, and
liked the Prince less the more she saw of him ;
her fancy for the impecunious Prince Leopold of
Saxe-Coburg, whom she afterwards married ; and
the intrigues of the Grand Duchess of Oldenburgh
to break off the match, in order to bring about a
marriage between her sister, the Grand Duchess
Anna Paulowna and the Prince of Orange.
The Prince was accordingly married to the
Grand Duchess. His character — careless, pleasure-
loving, and extravagant — made him very popular
in Brussels, and he spent as much as possible of
his time in his palace there, or at the chateau of
Tervueren. He preferred the Belgians to his
countrymen the Dutch, whose grave ways did not
suit him. Soon after his marriage he sent a secret
message to the Duke of Wellington, under whom
he had served in the Peninsular War and during
the Hundred Days, asking for the Duke's in
fluence to obtain leave to fix his Court at Brussels.

THE DUTCH GOVERNMENT 85
Wellington refused to interfere in a domestic
question, and, in reply to the Prince's suggestion
that his presence in Brussels might help to check
discontent amongst the Belgians, said that he
doubted the statements as to Belgian disaffection,
as many persons, and even nations, were interested
in breaking the union of Holland and Belgium.
The King and Queen of the Netherlands had the
greatest difficulty in persuading the Prince to visit
them in Holland. The Communal Council of
Brussels waited on them at The Hague with an
address of congratulation on their accession. ' I
don't know,' said the Queen, ' what you do to keep
my son at Brussels ; but he is so fond of you that
we hardly ever see him here.' It would have been
better for the stability of his throne if the King had
spent more of his own time in Brussels, for signs of
that discontent about which the Prince had written
to Wellington soon began to appear, and he might,
perhaps, have taken warning before it was too late,
if he had known the truth.
Like Joseph II., William came to the throne
full of good intentions ; like him, he alienated the
clergy at the outset ; and, like him, he tried to give
the Catholic Netherlands a liberal Constitution on
his own terms. His aim was to make them free

86 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
and happy, but ' Alone I did it ' must be written
over all. His character was a combination of sage
ideas and Dutch obstinacy ; and one great root of
bitterness between him and the clergy was that
never-ending question of education, over which
parties are fighting in Belgium at the present day.
It was not that he wished to make the southern
provinces Protestant. But he was bent on raising
the intellectual standard of the country ; and for
this purpose he founded, amongst other institu
tions, the College Philosophique at Louvain, where
the young priests were to receive a thorough
education in accordance with the spirit of the time
— a scheme which the Church resisted as it had
resisted the Seminaire Generate of Joseph II., and
with equal success.
In a variety of ways the King alienated the
people as well as the priests. Though the States-
General met alternately at The Hague and at
Brussels, all the great departments of the executive
were in Holland. They would, indeed, have been
safest there in the event of a war ; but it was made
a grievance that some of them were not at Brussels,
Antwerp, or Ghent. Most of the officials were
Dutch, which was said to prove a wish for Hollander
supremacy, though the Dutch were a minority of

THE DUTCH GOVERNMENT 87
the population of the United Kingdom. The
press attacked the Government, and was severely
punished under a system of decrees emanating
from the personal authority of the King. The use
of Dutch as the official language was enforced
against the wishes of the majority. Dutch
methods of taxation were extended to Belgium,
and trouble was caused by the fact that Holland
was for Free Trade and Belgium for Protec
tion. And of course the southern provinces were
Catholic and the northern Protestant, which more
than anything else kept them on bad terms. At
last the impression became universal that the
King's policy was to sacrifice the interests of the
Belgian provinces to those of Holland ; and the
result was that the two great parties, or schools of
thought, which had always bitterly opposed each
other, the Catholics and the Liberals, united to
oppose the Government.* This was in 1829.
* The question of tariffs was one bond of union. At a
political dinner on July 9, 1829, when the toast of the union
of Catholics and Liberals was given, one of several maxims
on the walls was : ' Notre industrie, agricole et manufac-
turiere, a besoin d'un systeme de protection sagement pondere ;
sans cette protection, le travail etranger viendrait prendre
bientot sur notre marchela place du travail national ' (C.
Rodenbach : Episodes de la Revolution dans les Flandres,
p. 82).

88 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
Next year the Paris revolt of July, which drove
out Charles X., and put Louis Philippe on the
throne of France, taught the Belgians how easy it
might be to get rid of a ruler with whom they
were discontented ; and when the news from Paris
came to Brussels, the streets and cafes were full of
men reading the papers, and saying to each other,
' That's the way to revolt ! Long live the barri
cades ! Long live the people !'
The days passed on in Brussels, with the restless
ness of the population increasing. The King's
birthday was August 24, and preparations had
been made for celebrating it with unusual brilliancy.
The park was to be illuminated, and there were to
be fireworks at the Porte de Namur. But the
people of Brussels, in that summer of 1830, were
not to be pacified by fetes. Placards were found
posted on the walls with the ominous words : ' Le
23, Feu d'artifice ; le 24, Illuminations ; le 25,
Revolution.' Warnings, too, reached the Pro-
cureur du Roi that mischief was brewing ; and the
festivities were abandoned, the reason being given
that bad weather was expected !
On the evening of the 25th Auber's ' Muette de
Portici' was to be played at the Monnaie. This
opera had been more than once forbidden lest it

THE REVOLUTION OF 1830 89
should cause disturbances ; but now permission
had been granted to perform it, and the theatre
was full. Every song of revolt was cheered, and
the climax came with the words of the duet in
Act 4:
' Amour sacre de la Patrie,
Rends-nous 1'audace et la fierte ?'
The audience rose and rushed out into the Place
de la Monnaie, inflamed by the songs they had
just heard, and shouting, ' Liberty ! liberty !'
Then the mob gathered and rioting began. The
old flag of Brabant was hoisted on the Hotel
de Ville, and the town was in an uproar for the
next two days.
Orders were sent from The Hague to put down
the ' rising ' by force, and Dutch troops under the
command of Prince Frederick, the King's second
son, marched on Brussels. For nearly a month
threats, promises, negotiations were tried. But
the insurgents refused to yield. Paid agitators
went about among the people ; men of high stand
ing took the lead in organizing the revolt ; barri
cades were erected ; volunteers came in from all
parts ; the Bishops pulled the strings behind the
scenes, and the country clergymen instigated their
parishioners to rebellion ; the whole of Flanders
12

90 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
and Brabant was soon up in arms, and on Sep
tember 23 the Dutch advanced to attack Brussels.
Three days of desperate fighting in the streets
followed. The Dutch held the park in force, but
could not penetrate into the Place Royale, which
was defended by a strong barricade. Every house
in the Rue Royale was full of insurgents, who
fired from the windows on the Dutch. In other
parts of the city there was the same stubborn
resistance. For three days the struggle continued.
At sunset the firing ceased, and the working men
in their blouses sat drinking and boasting of their
exploits in the cafes, while their leaders met at the
Hotel de Ville and took counsel for the morrow,
and the Dutch bivouacked in the park and on
the boulevards. Each morning at dawn the tocsin
sounded from Ste. Gudule, and the people rushed
to the barricades.
At daybreak on September 27 all was quiet when
a small party of the insurgents stole into the park,
and went forward under cover of the trees. They
found it empty. The night had been very dark,
and in the small hours the Dutch had left in
silence, and were now marching away from
Brussels. It was a day of brilliant sunshine, and while

THE REVOLUTION OF 1830 91
the bourdon was sounding from the towers of
Ste. Gudule, and horsemen were riding out into
the country with the news, the populace flocked
to the Palace. The men of the blouse, their hands
and faces black with gunpowder, merchants, priests,
lawyers, well-dressed ladies and ragged harridans,
boys and girls, young and old, went in, pushing,
laughing, singing. They did little damage, but
hacked and cut the portraits of the King — the
poor King who had meant so well by his king
dom. The Queen's private rooms were examined,
and her wardrobes opened. One lad found a rich
dress, ' a magnificent robe of ceremony — white
velvet embroidered with gold.' He pulled it out,
put it on, and over it a mantle of orange colour.
With a hat ' a la Marie Stuart ' on his head, he
sallied out. The mob, crying, ' The Queen is
prisoner !' surrounded him with shouts of laughter,
and then tore off the finery and trailed it in the
dust. A marble bust of the King was brought
out. They put a crown of Dutch cheese upon
it, and carried it about with cries of ' Down with
the first and last King of the Netherlands !' Many
lives had been lost during the fighting ; but this was
Brussels. It was all very different from Paris and
the downfall of Louis and Marie Antoinette. 12—2

92 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
The chief work of the Congress of Vienna was
undone ; and King William instructed Baron Falck,
his Ambassador at the Court of St. James's, to ask
for intervention on his behalf. The British Govern
ment replied that troops could not be sent ; that
the Five Great Powers were to meet in London ;
and that the policy of Great Britain would be
to prevent the troubles in the Netherlands leading
to a breach of the peace in Europe.
How the plenipotentiaries of Great Britain,
France, Russia, Austria, and Prussia met in
conclave on the weary question of the Low
Countries ; how this Conference of London recog
nized the independence of the Catholic Nether
lands, defined their boundaries, and made them
neutral ; how at the same time a National
Congress at Brussels declared that the House of
Nassau had forfeited the throne, chose as the first
King of independent Belgium Prince Leopold of
Saxe-Coburg, and framed, under the influence of
Lamennais and his disciples, a Constitution whose
democratic principles breathe the spirit of the
Joyeuse Entree of Brabant, are events which
form a part of the general history of modern
Europe.

THE VICISSITUDES OF ANTWERP

CHAPTER VII
THE VICISSITUDES OF ANTWERP
When Napoleon was at Antwerp in 1803, he
spoke to the Communal Council about the miserable
condition of the place. ' It is little better,' he
said, ' than a heap of ruins. It is scarcely like
a European city. I could almost have believed
myself this morning in some African township.
Everything needs to be made — harbours, quays,
docks ; and everything shall be made, for Ant
werp must avail itself of the immense advantages
of its central position between the North and the
South, and of its magnificent and deep river.'
Antwerp was indeed a pitiable sight. Its trade
had sunk to nothing. Rows of squalid houses,
with wooden gables 300 years old, looked down
upon canals choked up with slime and filth. The
wharves on the banks of the noble River Scheldt
were mere heaps of rotten timber. Half the
churches, from which the stained glass and rich
ornaments of former days had long since departed,
95

96 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
were closed. Grass was growing in the deserted
streets ; and the walls of this desolate city con
tained a population which numbered only some
40,000 souls. Such in the beginning of the nine
teenth century was the state of Antwerp, which
had once been the centre of European commerce
and the greatest seaport in the world.
The position of Antwerp, close to the estuary of
the mighty stream which brought it within reach
of the markets, not only of Flanders, but of every
part of the world which could be reached by water,
had made it from an early period one of the chief
cities of Brabant. But for a long time Bruges and
Ghent, after their formidable rival Ypres had sunk
into insignificance, absorbed most of the commerce
of the Netherlands. These splendid cities fell ;
the commerce which had made them great found
its way to Antwerp ; and by the middle of the
sixteenth century, when the waters of Zwijn,
which had carried so many costly bales to Bruges,
were drying up, the broad expanse of the Scheldt
was covered by innumerable ships threading their
way up to where the merchant princes of Italy,
Germany, and England had established themselves,
in a city which was now greater than even Venice
or Genoa. Every week 2,000 waggons heavily

ANTWERP
The Cathedral — Chapel of St. Joseph.

THE VICISSITUDES OF ANTWERP 97
laden entered Antwerp. Silk, satin, velvet, and
tapestry ; gold, silver, and precious stones ; spices
and sugar from Portugal and Spain, now enriched
by their conquest of the Indies ; wines from
France and Germany — all found their way to
Antwerp. The manufactures of the Flemish
towns were sent down the highway of the Scheldt
to the most distant parts of the world ; but England,
Spain, and Portugal were the countries to which
most of the cargoes were exported, and these were
so rich that on one occasion the contents of thirteen
ships taken by pirates were valued at 500,000
ecus d'or.*
Already, under the Dukes of Brabant and
Burgundy, the city had grown far beyond its
original limits ; but the wealth, the magnificence,
and the vastly increased population which the
remarkable prosperity of the sixteenth century
brought with it, led Charles V. to issue a decree
that the walls must be extended, and the boundaries
now became those which enclosed it until recent
times. The Cathedral Church of Notre Dame, still the
glory of Antwerp, was the largest and the richest
ecclesiastical building in the Netherlands. Not
* Moke, p. 390 (3rd edition). 13

98 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
far from the Cathedral was the Vleechhuis, now
known as the Vieille Boucherie, a solid building
of red brick relieved by courses of white stone,
with five hexagonal turrets, erected by the Guild
of Butchers, the interior of which was in those
days ornamented with elaborate carvings, paint
ings, and marble statues. It is now surrounded by
mean houses in the most squalid part of the town ;
but its massive appearance, even in decay, gives an
idea of the power and wealth of what was not
the most powerful nor the wealthiest of the guilds.
In the Grande Place, as in the Grande Place of
Brussels, were other guild houses, distinguished by
their quaint gables and towering facades, each the
home of some great corporation. There, too, was
the H6tel de Ville, built of marble, and called ' the
wonder of the world,' lately erected to take the
place of an earlier structure which was no longer
considered worthy of the Antwerp which, having
dethroned her rival Bruges, was now called by her
proud inhabitants the ' Queen of the North.' In
all parts of this opulent city bankers and merchants
— Fuggers, Greshams, Stettens, Spinolas, and many
more — had built for themselves luxurious houses,
and met daily at the Bourse, where more business
was done than anywhere else in Europe.

ANTWERP
The Vieille Boucherie.

THE VICISSITUDES OF ANTWERP 99
But within a period of ten years two events took
place, the first of which destroyed the internal
beauty of the Cathedral, and the second of
which began the downfall of the commercial
prosperity of the city.
In 1566 the yearly Ommegang was fixed for
Sunday, August 18. Those who have seen the
crowds which, in our own time, gather in the
towns of Belgium when the streets are per
ambulated by the processions which still are so
attractive to the people of the Catholic Nether
lands, may form some conception of the intense
hostility which was excited in the hearts of the
Reformers by the j| |ft| reverence paid to
the jewelled image of the Virgin, which was that
day carried through the streets of Antwerp. For
the Inquisition had already been at work for fifteen
years, and thousands had already gone to the
scaffold or perished at the stake, and no man's life
was safe who did not bow the knee at the bidding
of the gloomy despot who was persecuting the
country in the name of the Catholic Church. The
image of the Virgin, the gorgeous vestments of the
priests, the ornaments of the churches, the banners
of the religious societies, the incense which filled
the air, nay, the very Host itself, were all so many
13—2

100 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
symbols of oppression. No wonder, then, that
after the procession had returned to the Cathedral
the battle-cry of ' Long live the Beggars !' was like
a match applied to gunpowder, and that the fury
of the common people broke out. Seventy marble
altars, among them an altar of the Holy Sacrament
which had been forty years in building, were de
stroyed. Three organs, the finest in Christendom,
were shattered into splinters. The woodwork of the
church, stalls, confessionals, pulpits, carved chairs,
were broken up. The statues of the saints were
cast down. The magnificent vessels of gold and
silver, the richly embroidered robes and banners,
were trampled under^p^fe^^T^e beautifully tinted
windows were demolished. The image of the
Virgin was torn to pieces. When the work of
Vandalism came to an end, it was wonderful that
the building itself had escaped destruction.
No blood was shed by the Protestants when they
wrecked the Cathedral of Antwerp, not even that
of a single priest ; no woman was insulted, nor was
any plunder carried away by the rioters.* But in
ten years came the orgy of robbery, murder, and
rape known as ' The Spanish Fury.' $g#,\
* See Motley, Rise of the Dutch Republic, part ii., chap, ii.,
for the evidence as to this.

ANTWERP
Old houses in the Rue de l'Empereur.

THE VICISSITUDES OF ANTWERP 101
The citadel, built by Alva to overawe the town,
was occupied in 1576 by a garrison of Spaniards
whose pay was in arrears, and who cast longing
eyes on the El Dorado lying ready to their hands.
The defenders were a body of Germans and
Walloons who had just come from Brussels.
These were mercenaries and not to be depended
on, and the burghers themselves were not so hardy
as of old. On the morning of November 4 the
Spaniards, reinforced by a troop of mutineers from
Alost, rushed through a thick mist which hung
over the marshes of the Scheldt, and burst into the
city. For three long days the streets ran blood.
Men, women, and children were put to the sword
without mercy. Public buildings and private
dwellings were plundered. The whole town was
set on fire. Women were violated ; there were
cruel torturings ; and every possible crime was
committed. Many were drowned in the river
while trying to escape. Piles of dead lay in the
Grande Place. Of the Hotel de Ville, where the
Burgomaster and most of the magistrates met their
death, nothing remained but the bare walls. The
archives of the city perished in the flames. Eight
thousand corpses lay among the smouldering ruins
— for this massacre was more deadly than the

102 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
massacre of St. Bartholomew's Day. 'The city,
which had been a world of wealth and splendour,
was changed into a charnel-house, and from that
time its commercial supremacy was blasted.'*
Within four years of the Spanish Fury almost the
whole trade of Antwerp had been transferred to
Amsterdam, and the time of the final catastrophe
was at hand.
The Pacification of Ghent, which bound all the
provinces of the Netherlands in a league against
Spain, followed hard on the Spanish Fury of
Antwerp ; but the northern and the southern
provinces quickly drifted apart, and in three years
were rent in twain. The diplomacy of the Prince
of Parma was as fatal to the cause of freedom as
the fires of Alva. Holland stood firm and was
saved in the long, weary struggle. Belgium halted
between two opinions, and was lost. Brussels, the
political capital, held out until it was starved into
surrender ; Bruges capitulated ; and most towns of
note sooner or later were taken, or made their
peace humbly with Spain. But to obtain posses
sion of Antwerp was a matter of far greater
importance than the fate of any other town, and
the siege, which Parma conducted with so much
* Motley, Rise of the Dutch Republic, part iv., chap. vi.

THE VICISSITUDES OF ANTWERP 103
energy and skill, was the most serious military
operation during the contest in the Netherlands.
For Antwerp, though doomed to destruction
by the Spanish Fury and sinking rapidly, was
still the commercial capital of the Netherlands.
' Antwerp was the hinge on which the fate of the
whole country, perhaps of all Christendom, was to
turn. "If we get Antwerp," said the Spanish
soldiers — so frequently that the expression passed
into a proverb—" you shall go to Mass with us ; if
you save Antwerp, we will all go to conventicle
with you." '*
The population was large, about one hundred
thousand. The H6tel de Ville, the centre of the
civic life, had already been rebuilt ; the city, in
spite of its frightful loss of trade, had not yet
abandoned all hope of recovering its position ; and
William the Silent, before his death in 1584, had
pointed out the means of defence — to destroy the
dykes which kept the Scheldt within its bed,, and
flood all the meadows round the city, so as to
prevent the Spaniards blockading the river by
erecting a bridge, which would bar the passage of
the ships on which the city would — in the event of
a siege — depend for supplies of food. This advice
* Motley, History of the United Netherlands, chap. v.

104 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
was not taken. The Guild of Butchers, whose
flocks fed on the meadows which it was proposed
to flood, objected, met in the Vleechhuis, and sent
a deputation to the magistrates, who quailed before
them. Other guilds, together with most of the
citizens, refused to believe that the Scheldt could
be bridged, and the magistrates decided not to
follow the plan of the Prince of Orange. Parma,
therefore, was able to occupy the banks of the
river, and to build forts which threatened the town
and protected the army of workmen who were soon
busily engaged in constructing the bridge which
was to close the channel. At the same time, while
his own position remained dry, the dykes at some
distance had been opened, and the plains for miles
around were turned into a waste of shallow water.
The siege lasted for seven months. For some
time food reached the city in ships which succeeded
in forcing their way up from Flushing and past
the Spaniards ; but blockade-runners expect a big
return for their risks, and when the magistrates
were so foolish as to put a limit on the price of
wheat, the supplies from outside came to an end.
The building of the bridge went on, slowly but
surely. The weather was cold and stormy. The
river, in winter flood, made the task almost

ANTWERP
Archway under the Vieille Boucherie.

THE VICISSITUDES OF ANTWERP 105
impossible ; but the Spaniards toiled on with
wonderful patience and courage, and at last, on
February 25, 1585, their work was finished, and the
Scheldt was closed. The garrison made desperate
efforts by sallies, fire-ships — everything they could
think of — to destroy Parma's work, but all in vain.
The citizens trembled at the prospect of a famine.
England and Holland were sending help ; but
stout hearts like those which, a century later
maintained the defence of Londonderry till the
boom was broken, were not to be found in Antwerp.
Negotiations were opened, and, after a long time
spent in discussing terms, the capitulation was
signed on August 17, 1585. The terms of the
surrender were not hard. An amnesty was
granted, and the garrison received the honours of
war ; but on one point Philip was inexorable —
there must be no liberty of conscience, no religion
but that of Rome.
What this meant to Antwerp was soon apparent.
The Reformation had many disciples there.* They
* ' Nulle part en Belgique les nouvelles croyances
n'avaient jete des racines aussi profondes ' (Moke, 426). The
Rue de Tournai was the quarter where most Calvinists were
to be found. From the list of suspected persons, drawn up
in 1567, it would appear that barely half a dozen families
14

106 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
were called upon to choose between giving up
their religion or leaving the country. A period of
two years was fixed, during which the Protestant
merchants and the Protestant workmen of Antwerp,
on whose business capacity and labour the prosperity
of the city depended, might leave their places of
business and abandon their homes ; and in order
that the rising generation should breathe, from
their earliest days, a purely orthodox atmosphere,
Parma was instructed to see that the selection of
teachers was left in the hands of the Jesuits, so
that no Protestants should have a voice in the
education of the young. Antwerp suffered from
this policy of intolerance in the same way as,
exactly one hundred years afterwards, France
suffered from the Revocation of the Edict of
Nantes. The flower of the population left, carry
ing with them what remained of their wealth and,
a greater loss, their skill and habits of industry.
' The poor city is most forlorn and poverty-stricken,
the heretics having all left it/ were Parma's own
words.*
living there were free from the charge of heresy. — Thys :
Historique des Rues et Places Publigues de la ville aVAnvers,
p. 77.
* ' In a very few years after the subjugation of Antwerp, it

ANTWERP
The Concierge of the Musee Plantin-Moretus.

THE VICISSITUDES OF ANTWERP 107
The people of Antwerp might well have applied
to themselves the words used by Gerard Truchses
of Cologne, when lamenting the supineness of the
German Princes during the death struggle against
Rome and the Escurial : ' We shall find our
destruction in our immoderate desire for peace.'
Peace they had obtained, but a peace which
brought them no relief, and left them face to face
with starvation ; for Sidney — that Sidney of whom
tradition tells the well-known story of his cup of
water given to the wounded soldier — saw to it that
not one bushel of wheat was carried up the Scheldt
past Flushing, which he held as Governor for the
Queen of England, to what was now a Spanish
town.* For twenty-four years the Scheldt was rigorously
appeared by statistical documents that nearly all the manu
factures of linen, coarse and fine cloths, serges, fustians,
tapestry, gold embroidery, arras-work, silks and velvets, had
been transplanted to the towns of Holland and Zeeland,
which were flourishing and thriving, while the Flemish and
Brabantine cities were mere dens of thieves and beggars." —
Motley : History of the United Netherlands, Appendix to
chap. v.
* The Battle of Zutphen, at which Sir Philip Sidney received
the wound from which he died, was fought on October 2, 1586,
thirteen months after the surrender of Antwerp.
14—2

108 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
blocked by the fleets of Holland ; and the commerce
of Antwerp, which Parma would fain have restored,
disappeared altogether. A gleam of hope came
when, in 1609, the Twelve Years' Truce was signed
at Antwerp by the representatives of the Arch
dukes Albert and Isabella and the States-General
of Holland. But the city had fallen so low that
many years would scarcely have sufficed to raise
it ; and whatever progress followed the truce came
to an end with the Treaty of Minister. The
closing of the Scheldt had become a political
dogma with the Dutch ; and the fourteenth article
of the treaty kept it closed against the trade of
Brabant and Flanders, to the great benefit of the
seaports of Holland.*
About the year 1590, amongst the pupils at one
of the schools established by the Jesuits at Antwerp
after the great siege, was a boy whose parents had
given him the Apostolic name of Peter Paul. His
father was Joannes Rubens, a distinguished lawyer,
* The proper reading of Article XIV. of the Treaty of
Munster was disputed. See De Gerlache, i. 70. However,
' Quoi qu'il en soit,1 says Baron De Gerlache, ' TEscant
demeura ferme ; les Hollandais en tenaient les deux rives ; le
commerce d'Anvers et de la Belgique fut ruine par la faiblesse
et la lachete de I'Espagne, et par la connivence egoiste des
autres puissances.1

THE VICISSITUDES OF ANTWERP 109
who had been a magistrate of Antwerp at the time
of the image-breaking in the Cathedral, and whose
name was in the list of persons suspected of Cal
vinism. The Burgomaster and magistrates solemnly
assured the Government that he was above sus
picion ; but Rubens, who undoubtedly was a
Calvinist, fearing the Inquisition, left the city and
went to Germany with his wife. There he was
involved in an intrigue with Anna, daughter of the
Elector Maurice, and second wife of William the
Silent. Rubens was sent to prison, and thereafter
banished to Siegen, where his wife joined him.
The Princess, after being kept in close confinement
for some years, died in 1577. In that year, the
year before the Spanish Fury, and on June 28,
being the Eve of the Festival of St. Peter and
St. Paul, was born the boy who afterwards became
the famous painter. Ten years after the birth of
his son Joannes Rubens died at Cologne, and his
widow, returning to Antwerp, took up her abode
in the house where she had formerly lived with
her husband, in the Place de Meir. There young
Rubens passed his schooldays. If the cupboards
were bare at Antwerp at that time, the con
fessionals were full, and the widow, having abjured
the errors of Calvinism, sent her son to the schools

110 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
which, ever since the surrender to Parma, had been
in the hands of the Catholic clergy.
When his education was finished he went to
learn painting from Venius, whose studio was then
in a street called the Rue Sale,* because, it is said,
of its extreme dirtiness, and also from Van Noort,
who taught in the Rue du Jardin. Thereafter he
travelled for eight years in Italy and Spain,
gaining friends and painting, always painting, and
studying art. News reached him that his mother
was ill, and he hurried back to Antwerp, but found
on his arrival that she was already dead. Having
no longer any home ties, he was on the point of
returning to Italy, and Antwerp nearly lost him,
when the Archdukes Albert and Isabella persuaded
him to remain. This was in 1608. Next year
he married Isabelle, daughter of Jean Brant, town
clerk of Antwerp, and set up house in the Rue du
Couvent, where many of his best-known works were
painted. He soon, however, built the mansion in which
he lived for the rest of his life, in what is now
called the Rue Rubens,f to the south of the Place
* Now the Rue Otto- Venius.
t Then the Rue de la Bascule, or ' Wapper,' a broad street
with a canal in the middle, filling up, apparently, the space

THE VICISSITUDES OF ANTWERP 111
de Meir. He drew the plans himself on the model
of some palace he had known in Italy, painted
frescoes on the walls, and filled it with curios he
had collected during his travels. In his large garden
he put up a domed ' Pantheon,' where he arranged
the paintings, antique statues and busts, cameos,
medals, vases of porphyry, and other treasures
which his friends in Italy sent him. His studio
was a vast room, from which the largest canvases
were easily brought down by a staircase which one
of his biographers describes as like that of a royal
palace. We know a great deal about his mode of life at
Antwerp, and how he was sent journeying on
diplomatic errands by the Court of Albert and
Isabella to France, Spain, Holland, England, and
everywhere received with honour. At home, early
in the morning (he rose at four in summer), having
already been to Mass, he is at work in his studio,
and loves to listen as he paints to some friend who
will read to him from Cicero or Plutarch, or, brush
in hand, talks with endless vivacity to the guests
between the east side of the modern Rue Rubens and the west
side of the modern Rue Wappers. In 1611, when Rubens
built his house, the canal which used to run down the middle
of the Place de Meir had been vaulted over for some time.

112 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
who have come to call on him. After a walk in
his garden he dines frugally and very soberly, for
he dreads, we are told by Van Hasselt, the effect
of wine on his imagination ; and then he works
on in his studio till late in the afternoon, when he
mounts one of his fine horses and rides till after
sunset. In the evening he sups as frugally as he
dined, and finishes the day at home in a circle
of his most intimate friends, the only society for
which he cared. This busy, happy life of Antwerp's
greatest citizen closed on May 30, 1640. The
statue in the Place Verte* was erected to com
memorate the two-hundredth anniversary of his
death ; but the fruit of his laborious days is the
best monument of his fame.
Close to the Place Verte is the Marche- du
Vendredi, where, in 1578, Christopher Plantin,
'the Rubens of the printing-press,' set up his
works. The story of Plantin's life is a romance
of labour. He was born at Tours in 1514, of a
wealthy family called Tercelain ; but, his father
having lost his fortune, he changed his name to
Plantin, and found employment at Caen as a
bookbinder. Having married there, he went to
Antwerp, and opened a small shop, in which he
* The churchyard of the Cathedral till 1784.

ANTWERP
The Place Verte.

THE VICISSITUDES OF ANTWERP 113
worked at his own trade while his wife sold cloth.
The story goes that one night during the carnival
he was wounded by some masqueraders, who
mistook him for another person. To hush up
the affair they paid him a sum of money, with
which he bought a press and types, began to print
almanacs and books for children, and did this so
well that he soon had a flourishing business.
The first important work produced at the Plantin
Press was ' L'Instruction d'une Fille de Noble
Maison,' a translation from the Italian, which
appeared in 1555. His reputation grew, and in
thirteen years he was able to purchase the site
at the Marche" du Vendredi. His name, like that
of Joannes Rubens, was on the list of suspected
Calvinists after the image - breaking, and his
printing-house was searched. But nothing was
found to support the charge of heresy, and his
orthodoxy must have been established beyond
doubt, for Philip not only employed him to
produce the famous Polyglot Bible, but gave him
the monopoly of printing missals and breviaries
for the whole of the Spanish Empire.
After his death in 1589, the business, which
now had branches in Paris, Leyden, and Frankfort,
was carried on by his son-in-law, Jean Mourentorff, 15

114 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
whose family afterwards changed their name, in
accordance with the pedantic fashion of the day,
to Moretus. The Musee Plantin-Moretus, with
the dwelling-rooms and their Renaissance furniture ;
the type and presses of the sixteenth century ; the
old proof-sheets, looking as if the printer's reader
had just left them ; the tapestry and paintings ;
and the quaint courtyard with the aged vine-tree,
which traditions say was put there by Plantin
himself — is the place of all others where some idea
may be formed of the family life and surroundings
of a wealthy business man in the Netherlands 300
years ago.
But though Rubens had painted and the firm of
Plantin had printed and grown rich, the Scheldt
was all the time rolling down to the sea with
scarcely one sail upon it ; and the shipping trade
of Antwerp was still at the mercy of the Dutch
when the eighteenth century came in. The
Treaty of Utrecht gave the Catholic Netherlands
to Austria, but did not free the Scheldt. On the
contrary, the stipulations of the Treaty of Miinster
were confirmed ; and when in 1785, a century since
Parma took Antwerp, Joseph II. demanded the
opening of the great river, this same Treaty of
Miinster was unrolled as a reply. Thus, when the

ANTWERP
The Mus£e Plantin-Moretus (the Arriere Boutique).

THE VICISSITUDES OF ANTWERP 115
French Revolution came, and the army of the
Republic took possession of the Austrian Nether
lands, the Scheldt had been blocked and the
shipping trade of Antwerp ruined for more than
200 years.
In November, 1792, the Convention declared the
Scheldt a free river, and ordered its Generals to
carry out this declaration by force of arms against
the Dutch. Mr. Pitt was ready to remain neutral
in the war between France and Austria ; but to
this infringement of the Treaties of Miinster and
Utrecht, which had given the exclusive navigation
of the Scheldt to the Dutch, he would not agree.
Apart from the question of treaty rights, that
the coast-line from the Scheldt westwards, with
Antwerp at one end and Dunkirk at the other,
and from the Scheldt northwards to the Texel,
should be in the hands of France suggested a
constant danger of invasion ; to say nothing of
possible injury to the commerce of England from
the restrictions which an unfriendly Power might
place on English trade with Antwerp, if Antwerp,
as was certain, became once more a great seaport
when the Scheldt was free. England was about
to recognize the Republic when this question of
Holland and the Scheldt made war inevitable.
15—2

116 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
Thus once more Antwerp was the hinge on which
the peace of Europe turned.
Though the Scheldt became a French river in
1797, after the Treaty of Campo Formio, and
though the Convention of The Hague had already
abolished the shipping dues, Antwerp had made
no progress towards recovery when Napoleon went
there in 1803. He deepened the harbour, strength
ened the fortifications, expended immense sums
on improving the communications with Amster
dam and other places in the Netherlands, and
purposed making the great seaport opposite the
mouth of the Thames his chief naval station. He
even planned the building of a new city. England
was equally aware of the value of Antwerp. The
Walcheren expedition, that costly failure,* was
undertaken to strike a blow at this vital spot ; and
the Conference of Chatillon, in 1814, broke down
because Napoleon would not relinquish Antwerp.
He could not make up his mind to let it go. Long
afterwards he said : ' Antwerp was to me a province
* Napoleon thought that the expedition was wisely con
ceived, and that, if it had not been so foolishly executed,
Antwerp might have been taken by a coup de main. As to
the tactics of the English Generals, ' C'etait le comble de la
betise et de 1'inhumaniteV he said (O'Meara, Napoleon at
St. Helena, i., 238).

THE VICISSITUDES OF ANTWERP 117
in itself. It was the principal cause of my exile to
St. Helena ; for it was the required cession of that
fortress which made me refuse the terms offered at
Chatillon. If they would have left it to me, peace
would have been concluded.' And it was still in his
possession when the end came. Carnot was there
— ' iron Carnot, far-planning, imperturbable ' — and
held the fortress till the Emperor abdicated.
Trade revived with the creation of the Kingdom
of the Netherlands. By 1830 the population had
increased to between 70,000 and 80,000. There
was a strong Orange party in the city during the
Belgian Revolution, for the Scheldt is to Antwerp
what the Nile is to Egypt — its life ; and the union
with Holland insured the freedom of the river.
Antwerp, however, suffered more at that time
from the Dutch than Brussels. General Chasse", an
old soldier of the Empire, who had lived there for
some years, was in command of the troops in the
citadel.* He had under him between 2,000 and
3,000 men. The forts and ramparts were armed
with nearly 300 heavy guns, and in the Scheldt,
* ' II commandait depuis quelques annees a Anvers, ou ses
aventures amoureuses lui avaient donne une terrible reputa
tion. C'etait une sorte de Lovelace en cheveux blancs, forte
redoute des meres de famiHe.' — De Leutre, ii. 81.

118 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
close to the town, were nine ships of war. An
exchange of shots between some of the Belgian
insurgents and the Dutch was followed by a furious
bombardment. For seven hours the citadel, the
forts on the other side of the river, and the ships
continued their fire. The houses shook with the
noise of the big guns and the rattle of musketry.
The terror and confusion were indescribable in the
streets, which were lighted up, after darkness fell, by
the flames roaring from the Church of St. Michael,
which was burned to the ground. A great deal of
damage was done, but fortunately the ships were so
close to the shore that their shot passed over the
housetops, otherwise the whole of Antwerp might
have been destroyed. The spire of the Cathedral
was a conspicuous object, rising high above the
Place Verte in the most crowded part of the town.
The shells flew past it and over it, but only three
did any harm, one bringing down a turret, and
two crashing through the roof and bursting in the
nave. The wind carried the sound of the cannonade to
Brussels, where, after sunset, the people saw the sky
glowing red in the east ; and some members of the
Revolutionary Government were sent to Antwerp,
who arranged an armistice. The Dutch remained

ANTWERP
The roadstead from the Tete de Flandre.

THE VICISSITUDES OF ANTWERP 119
in possession of the citadel ; but this bombardment,
which took place on October 27, 1830, put an end
to the last lingering hopes of a reconciliation
between the Belgian provinces and the House of
Orange-Nassau. Since 1830 the trade of Antwerp has increased
enormously, and not very long ago the Scheldt was
so congested with shipping that no vessels were
allowed up unless they were regular liners, as there
were no free berths in the docks. This fact speaks
for itself. Antwerp is now the greatest port on the
continent of Europe. In the world London stands
first, with New York second, but Antwerp comes
third ; and to meet this huge trade three miles
of additional quays are to be constructed within
the next few years. Last year the Burgomaster of
the city said that the mercantile marine of Great
Britain was so pre-eminent there that Antwerp
was, 'from a commercial point of view, one of
the most important British ports in the world.'
Germany and England, however, are engaged in a
struggle for supremacy. They are ahead of all
rivals ; but the shipping companies of Hamburg
and Bremen are the most powerful in the city, and,
although during the last twenty years British trade
has steadily increased at Antwerp, German trade

120 EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT
has increased still more, and seems to be rapidly
overtaking that of England.
The presence in force of the German element on
the banks of the Scheldt is the most striking
feature of modern Antwerp. An extraordinary
hold on its commerce and industries has been
secured, as well as on the social life of the city.
The Chamber of Commerce is full of German mem
bers. There is a German colony many thousands
strong. There are German clubs and schools, and
numberless clerks from all parts of Germany are
to be found in business houses. These facts give
some colour to the prediction, so often heard, that
the time is approaching when Antwerp will be under
the German Zollverein, and that this will be the
first step towards the realization of those ambitions
which, beginning with a commercial alliance with
Holland and Belgium, are to find their victory
in the absorption of those countries, or, at least,
of Holland and Antwerp, in the German Empire.
It is well known that the Netherlands believe their
independence to be in danger. The Belgian Govern
ment purposes spending millions in extending the
fortifications of Antwerp. On all hands the dura
bility of the settlement made by the Conference of
London in 1830-1831 is called in question.

THE VICISSITUDES OF ANTWERP 121
Great interests are involved ; and it is within the
possibilities of the future that Antwerp may be,
yet once again, the hinge on which the peace of
Europe turns. The mouth of the Scheldt is still
where it was in the days of Napoleon — opposite the
mouth of the Thames.

16

INDEX

Abbey of St. Bavon, 10, 11
Adoration of the Immaculate
Lamb, 11
Alexander, Emperor of Eussia, 83
AlliSe Verte, 47
Alost, 17
Alva, 101, 102
Amandus, St., 10
Amsterdam, 102
Anderlecht, 40
Androuins, M., 49
Anna Paulowna, Grand Duchess,
83,84
Anna, wife of William the Silent,
109
Antoine, Duke of Brabant, 29
Antwerp : in the sixteenth century,
96, 97 ; cathedral sacked, 99,
100; the Spanish Fury, 100,
101 ; besieged in 1585, 102
et seq. ; reformers at, 105 ;
trade goes to Amsterdam, 102 ;
fall of, 106 ; Napoleon at, in
1803, 116 ; Orange party in
1830, 117 ; bombarded in 1830,
117, 118 ; state of, in 1803, 95 ;
surrendered by Carnot, 72 ; pro
posal to strengthen fortifications
of, 120; Cathedral, 97, 118;
Church of St. Michael, 118;
Grande Place, 98, 101; Hotel
de Ville, 101, 103 ; Marche" du
Vendredi, 112, 113 ; Bue de la
Bascule, 110 ; Bue du Couvent,
110; Place Verte, 112, 118;
Place de Meir, 109, 111; Bue
Bubens, 110 ; Bue Sale, 110 ;

Bue de Tournai, 105 ; Statue of
Bubens, 112; Vleechhuis, or
Vieille Boucherie, 98 ; walls of,
97 ; Wappers, 110
Archduke Maximilian, 7
Archdukes Albert and Isabella,
108, 110, 111
Arenberg, Duc d', 34, 69
Artevelde, Jacques van, 6, 9
Artois, Comte d', 79
Auber, 88
Baldwin Bras-de-Fer, 5
Beggars, The, 32, 33
Beguinage at Ghent, 9
Belfry of Bruges, 13; of Ghent,
13 ; of Brussels, 42
Berlaimont, 32, 33
Berri, Duc de, 79
Black Watch, 77
Blyde Incompste, 24
Bois-le-Duc, 19
Bombarda, Jean Paul, 46
' Bonnes Villes ' of Flanders, 14
Borluut, Madame, 75
Bouisies, Comte de, 75
Bourignon, Antoinette, 40
Brabant : present boundary, 17 ;
frontiers in ancient times, 18 ;
four chief towns of, 19 ; spirit
of union, 23 ; Joyeuse Entree,
24 et seq. ; States of, 27 ; Coun
cil of, 28 ; Dukes of, their tomb
violated, 44, 45 ; Bevolution of
55 et seq.
Brant, Jean, 110 ; Isabelle, 110
Br^derode, 32, 33
123 16 — 2

124

EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT

Brialmont, General, 76
Brodhuis, the, 42, 51, 61
Bruges, 3, 4, 13, 17, 19, 31, 96
Brussels"' contrast to Flemish
towns, 17 ; in the Middle Ages,
19, 23 ; increase of wealth and
luxury, 20 ; Wencelas at, 28 ;
under the House of Burgundy,
29 ; during the reign of Charles
V., 32; executions of Egmont
and Horn, 10, 44 ; entry of the
Infanta Isabella and Archduke
Albert, 39; bombardment of
1695, 39 et seq.; Charles of
Lorraine at, 47 et seq. ; scene in
the Grande Place in 1789, 61 ;
entered by the Austrians in
1790, 64, by the Allies in 1814,
71 ; Jacobin clubs, 69 ; Napo
leon at, 70, 71 ; during the
winter of 1814-15, 73 ; in June,
1815, 76 et seq. j Bevolution of
1830, 88 et seq. ; Allee Verte,
47 ; Boulevard du Midi, 22, de
Waterloo, 22 ; Brodhuis, 42, 52,
61 ; Burgundian Library, 30 ;
Coudenberg, 19 ; Church of the
Carmelites, 29, 42 ; Communal
Museum, 44 ; Grande Place, 18,
42 ; H6tel de France, 74 ; H6tel
de Ville, 18, 30, 42, 51; La
Chaussee, 33; l'Etoile, 43; le
Cygne, 43 ; Manneken, 63, 70 ;
Maison des Brasseurs, 43 ;
Mint House, 46; Montagne de la
Cour, 33, 41 ; Notre Dame de la
Chapelle, 22 ; Notre Dame du
Sablon, 22 ; Place de la Mon
naie, 46, 72, 89 ; Porte de Lou
vain, 72; Porte de Hal, 22, 40 ;
Porte de Laeken, 48 ; Porte de
Namur, 40, 78 ; Bue de la Blan-
chisserie, 76 ; Bue des Fripiers,
72 ; Bue de la Montagne du Pare,
74 ; Bue de Namur, 77 ; Bue des
Petits Cannes, 33 ; Bue Boyale,
74, 90 ; Ste. Gudule, 22, 44, 45 ;
St. Nicholas, 18, 42; Theatre

de la Monnaie, 45, 50, 62, 71,
88
Burgundy, House of, 29, 31
Burgundian Library, 30
Caen, 112
Caisse de Religion, 57
Cambrai, 18
Campo Formio, 116
Carnot, 72, 117
Carthusian Monastery at Ghent, 7
Catalani, 79
Chabot, 68
Charles the Bold, 29, 30, 31
Charles IV. of Luxembourg, 24
Charles V., 10, 12, 32, 97
Charles of Lorraine, 43, 47 et seq.,
69
Charles X., 88
Charles, M., advocate, 69
Charlotte, Princess, 84
Charleroi, 76, 80
Chasse, General, 117
Chateau des Comtes at Ghent, 6
Chateaubriand, 78, 79
Chatillon, Conference of, 116, 117
Clauwerts, 23
Cloth Hall of Ghent, 13
College Philosophique, 86
Cologne, 109
Conference of Chatillon, 116, 117 ;
of London, 92, 120
Congress of Ghent, 10
Congress of Vienna, 73, 92
Constitution of Belgium, 1831, 92
Convention (French), 65, 70, 115 ;
of the Hague, 116
Cossacks in Brussels, 72
Coudenburg, 19, 30
Cour des Princes at Ghent, 7
Creevy, Mr., at Brussels in 1815,
77
Cumberland Hussars, 78
Dame de Bellem, 59
Danton, 67
Denderleeuw, 17
Dendre, the Biver, 17

INDEX

125

Desmoulins, Camille, 68
Dumouriez, 68
Durancy, Mademoiselle, 49
Dyle, the Biver, 25
Edward III. at Ghent, 6
Egmont, Count, 8, 10, 44
Elba, 72
Enghien, 40
English competition with Flemish
trade, 20 ; with German, 119
Ernest, Archduke, 35
Eyck, Hubert van, 11 ; Jan van, 11
Ferdinand of Spain, 32
Fleurus, Battle of, 67, 68
Flushing, 104, 107
Frederick, Prince, attacks Brus
sels, 89 et seq.
Gambia, Lord, at Ghent, 7
Germans at Antwerp, 119, 120
Ghent : trade of, 3, 4 ; early his
tory, 5 ; Edward III. and Queen
Philippa at, 6 ; birth of John of
Gaunt, 7, of Charles V., 6;
ffetes at, 12 ; disaffection during
reign of Charles the Bold, 31 ;
Congress of, and Pacification, 8,
10, 11, 102 ; marriage of Mary
of Burgundy, 7 ; Catalani, 79 ;
Louis XVIII. in, 1815, 74, 75,
78, 79 ; H6tel de Ville, 7, 8, 9 ;
Eoland, the bell of Ghent, 13 ;
Bue des Champs, 75 ; Bue Haut-
Port, 9 ; Abbey of St. Bavon,
10, 11 ; Beguinage, 9 ; Cathe
dral of St. Bavon, 11, 79;
Church of St. Jacques, 9, of St.
Michael, 9, of St. Nicholas, 9,
of St. Pierre, 9; Marche du
Vendredi, 9 ; Carthusian Monas
tery, 7 ; Cloth Hall, 13 ; picture
of Mary of Burgundy, 8 ; Place
Ste. Pharailde, 6
Hague,The, Convention of, 1790, 64
Hane-Steenhuyse, Comte d', 75, 78

Hannetaire, Monsieur d', 50
Hapsburg, House of, 32
Henry VIII., 11
Horn, Count, 8, 10, 44
Hougoumont, 80
Hundred Days, 74-80
Isabella, daughter of Philip II., 39
Isabella, wife of Ferdinand of
Spain, 32
Jacobins at Brussels, 67 et seq.
Jean III., Count of Louvain and
Duke of Brabant, 24
Jean, son of Philip the Bold, 29
Jeanne, Duchess of Brabant, 24,
29, 42
Jemappes, 68
Joanna, wife of Philip the Fair, 32
John, King of England, 25
John of Gaunt, 7
Joseph II. : succeeds Maria
Theresa, 52; his policy in the
Austrian Netherlands, 55 etseq.;
demands opening of Scheldt,
114; his death, 64
Jourdan, 67
Joyeuse Entree of Brabant :
origin, 24 ; variations of, 25 ;
Mary of Burgundy's Joyeuse
Entree, 31 ; alleged infringe
ment by Joseph II., 59 ; re
stored, 64
Kingdom of the Netherlands, 73
et seq.
Kuilemburg, Count, 33, 34
La Belle Alliance, 80, 83
La Cintray, 49
La Haye Sainte, 80
La Nogentelle, 49
La Pinaud, 59, 70
Laeken, 71
Lamennais, 92
Leliarts, 23
Leopold of Saxe-Coburg, 84, 92
Liege, 18

126

EAST FLANDERS AND BRABANT

Lille, 75
Londonderry, 105
Louis of Maele, Count of Flanders,
28,29
Louis XL, 31
Louis XIV., 41
Louis XVIII., 74, 75, 78, 79
Louvain, capital of old Brabant,
19 ; inauguration of Dukes of
Brabant, 24 et seq. ; University,
57 ; S&ninaire Generale, 57 ;
College Philosophique, 86
Lys, the Eiver, 5, 6
Magna Charta, 25
Manneken of Brussels, 63, 70
Marat, 68
Marche" du Vendredi at Ghent, 9
Margaret of Parma, 33
Marguerite of Maele, 28, 29
Marianne, daughter of Dame de
Bellem, 60
Maria Theresa, 47, 52, 55, 64
Marie, wife of Charles of Lorraine,
47
Marie Antoinette, 62
Marie Louise, Empress, 70, 71
Mary of Burgundy, daughter of
Charles the Bold, 7, 8, 81,
32
Maurice, Elector, 109
Maximilian, husband of Mary of
Burgundy, 7, 32
Mons, 40
Mont St. Jean, 80
Mourentorff, Jean, 113
Muette de Portici, performance of,
88
Miinster, Treaty of, 108, 114, 115
Musee Plantin-Moretus, 114
Namur, 40
Nancy, 31
Napo]eon : at Antwerp, 95, 116 ;
on the importance of Antwerp,
116, 117 ; at Brussels, 70, 71 ;
departure to Elba, 72 ; lands in
France, 73 ; at Charleroi, 76 ;

reported victory of, on June 17,
1815, 79
Oldenburgh, Grand Duchess of, 84
Ostend, canal from Ghent to, 4
Orange, William of (the Silent), 34
Orange, William of, King of the
Netherlands, 73, 83, 85 et seq.
Orange, Prince of, 73, 83, 84, 85
Pacification of Ghent, 8, 10, 102
Paris, Capitulation of, 1814, 72 ;
Eevolution of July, 1830, 88
Parma, Prince of, 102, 104, 105,
108
Philip of Alsace, 5
Philip the Bold, 29
Philip the Fair, 32
Philip the Good, 29, 30
Philip II., 32, 39, 105, 113
Philippa, Queen, at Ghent, 6
Pitt, Mr., policy in the 1ST ether-
lands, 115
Plantin, Christopher, 112 et seq.
Polyglot Bible, 113
Prud'homme d'Aillay, Marquis, 61
Quatre Bras, 77, 80
Bichmond, Duke and Duchess of,
76
Bognon, M., 51
Eoland, the bell of Ghent, 13
Bubens, Joannes, 108, 109, 113
Eubens, Peter Paul, 108 et seq.
Bunnymede, 25
St. Bartholomew's Day, 102
Sart, Comte de, 51
Scheldt, the Biver, 95, 96, 97, 101,
103, 105, 107, 108, 114, 115, 117,
119, 120
Schonfeldt, General, 63
Senne, the Eiver, 18, 23
Sidney, Sir Philip, 107
Soignies, forest of, 18, 77
Spanish Fury of Antwerp, 100,
102, 109

INDEX

127

Tariff question in Belgium, 1829,
87
Terbanck, Monastery of, 26
Tercelain, family name of Plantin,
112
Tervueren, 49, 52, 84
Theatre de la Monnaie, 45, 47, 71
Tournai, 18
Tragedy of the Passion, 45
TrauttmansdorfF, 61
Treaty of Campo Formio, 116 ;
of Miinster, 108, 114, 115 ; of
Utrecht, 114, 115
Truchses, Gerard, 107
Turnhout, 18
Twelve Years' Truce, 108
Ursel, Duc d\ 69
Utrecht, Treaty of, 114, 115

Van der Noot, 60 et seq., 70
Vanity Fair, 76
Vienna, Congress of, 73
Villeroi attacks Brussels, 40 et seq.
Vonck, 63, 64
Walcheren Expedition, 116
Waterloo, 79, 80
Wellington, Duke of, 74, 76, 80,
84
Wencelas, 24, 28
Weyden, Boger van der, 30
William III., 40, 51
Wounded Eagle Monument at
Waterloo, 80
Ypres, 13, 17, 19, 96
Zutphen, Battle of, 107

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