YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

FROM
ENGLAND TO CEYLON.

* I. M. ***

Photographed by
FALL Baker Street, Portmax Square.

A LAND MARCH

FROM

ENGLAND TO CEYLON
FORTY YEARS AGO,

THROUGH DALMATIA, MONTENEGRO, TURKEY, ASIA MINOR, SYRIA, PALESTINE,
ASSYRIA, PERSIA, AFGHANISTAN, SCINDE, AND INDIA,
OF WHICH 7000 MILES ON HORSEBACK.

ILLUSTRATED WITH ORIGINAL SKETCHES.

BY
EDWARD LEDWICH MITFORD, F.R.G.S.,
CEYLON CIVIL SERVICE (RETIRED).

VOL. I.

LONDON :
W. H. ALLEN & CO., 13 WATERLOO PLACE, S.W.

T-UBLISHERS TO THE INDIA OFFICE.

I884.
All Higkts Reserved.

HERTFORD :
PRINTED BV STEPHEN AUSTIN AND SONS-

/YALE

TO THE MEMORY

MY MOTHER,

TO WHOM THE CO.N'TENTS OF THIS BOOK WERE WRITTEN
IN LETTERS HOME.

Errata in Vol. I.
Page 94, line 19. The sentence from "One'- to "Syria" will be found in
its proper place, p. 170.
Page 331, line 10, for "shilling" read "penny."

INTRODUCTION.

FORTY years ago ! What events have crowded into
this interval. At that time the Iron Road, which has
since made such Giant strides, was in its Infancy, and
had only crept with tottering steps from Liverpool to
Manchester. The Electric Telegraph did not exist, and
Photography was unknown. Since that time what wars
and revolutions have come and gone, and more especially
have the Crimean and Russo-Turkish wars opened up
the countries of Asia, at that time little known, except
from such enterprising travellers as Fraser, Conolly, and
Burnes. My own experience, gained in the years that
have elapsed, has necessarily altered or modified many
of the views and opinions of my youth ; but I prefer
leaving the present narrative (with some abridgments
and omissions) in its original form, rather than undergo
the labour of correcting it to the standard of my present
convictions, the facts and observations recorded being
of more value than my personal opinions.
The questions were often put to me at the time and
since, How many horses did you ride? How did you
carry money? What languages did you use? As re
gards the first query, I must premise that jout of the

Vlll INTRODUCTION.
whole journey of upwards of 9000 miles, only 7000 were
on horseback. Many can still remember the horrors of
the dusty Diligence and lumbering Eilwagen, which, with
the tedious Vetturino, was at that time the only mode of
winding slowly through the north of Europe; this was
supplemented a little further on by springless carts, but
even this mode of conveyance ceased south of Trieste ;
and there was a necessity of taking to the saddle in
Dalmatia, from whence the remaining distance was about
equally divided between hired horses, and six horses of
my own purchased at intervals. Rapid travelling was
only exceptional, slow marching being the rule, so that
on account of delays, caused by sickness, by being
weather-bound by rains, by detention by the Government
in Persia, and various other causes, it took me nineteen
months to reach Kurachee, and fifteen more to the end
of the journey at Colombo.
As regards money; at that time there was a Bank
at Constantinople, and after that, the Consuls and the
Resident at Bagdad cashed notes as an- act of kindness.
The small eastern coins of gold and silver were con
venient for carriage and concealment, and, travelling as
I usually did with one horse, and without baggage, my
wants and expenses were few. At Herat Major D'Arcy
Todd, and at Kandahar Sir H. Rawlinson, with open-
hearted generosity, took pleasure in supplying the needs
of a fellow-countryman ; until I reached India, where
there was no further difficulty.
The third difficulty of languages was more serious.

INTRODUCTION. IX
Continental languages were useless after Europe, but
fortunately I had learnt the Arabic of Morocco during
a residence in that country, and could at that time speak
it fluently; and although I found it different from the
dialects spoken in Syria and Mesopotamia, the root of
the language being the same, I found it most useful for
ordinary purposes in those countries. On reaching Persia,
however, it was useless, so that there was a necessity of
making a long delay of six weeks at Bagdad for the
purpose of learning Persian ; and having when young a
gift of learning languages, before reaching Afghanistan,
I could carry on a conversation with some facility; and
although in this latter country the language is Pushtoo,
as most of the people with whom I had to do, spoke
Persian, I still found that language useful.
In conclusion, I am aware that some readers consider
Travels interesting in proportion to the stirring adven
tures they contain ; but on looking back over the past,
the egoism of an old man may perhaps be forgiven
in thinking it more creditable to have passed at that
period through so many and barbarous countries scathe
less and unharmed, than if he had incurred, and could
have recorded, hair-breadth escapes and adventures in
every page.
1884.

CONTENTS OF VOL. I

Chapter I.— TO VENICE.
Arrangements for Departure. — Pilgrims at Aix, 3. — Rhine;
German Students, 4. — Stud at Stuttgardt ; Augsburg, 5. —
Tyrolese Alps, 6. — Innspruck ; Hofer ; Interesting people, 7. —
Ampezzo Pass, 9. — Scenery, 10. — Cortina; Change in people,
11. — Venice,. 12. — Fairy Scene; Commerce, 14.
Chapter II.— DALMATIA.
Trieste; Commercial Prosperity; Inquiries about roads, 17. — A
"British" traveller; Handsome cattle; Fiume; Proteus Anguinis,
18. — Rocky country ; Tunny fishing, 19. — Carts without springs,
Meteors at Ottochatz, 20. — Morlacchi; Female vanity; Forests,
zi. — Bandit scene, 23. — A wise Praetor; Castles, 24. — Falls of
Kerka ; Trout, 25. — Sebenico Cathedral; Maraschino, 26. —
Dalmatia; Venetian memorials, 27. — Trau; Date palm; Ruins
of Salona, 28. — Spalatro ; Roman remains and temples, 29. —
Peasants' games; Turkish frontier; Cettina river, 30. — Begin
journey on Horseback; Jessero Lake, 31. — Metcovich on
Narenta; Midnight ride, 32.— Slano ; Melita versus Malta;
Ragusa, historical, 34. — Damage in war of 1806 ; Castel Nuovo,
36. — Meteor; Cattaro, 37.
Chapter III.— MONTENEGRO.
Proposed travel through Montenegro ; Jealousy of Austria ;
Obstructions ; Wrote to Vladika ; Invitation of Chief, 40. —
Climbed mountains ; Cettign£, 41. — Turks' heads; Fighting, 42.
— The Vladika and the Austrians, 43. — His position; Customs
of people, 44. — Leave for Scutari ; Cruelty to animals ; Look
at home, 46. — Across the lake of Scutari at night ; Ornithology,
47. — Village of pile huts ; Herodotus, 48.

Xli CONTENTS OF VOL. I.
Chapter IV.— ALBANIA.
Landed at Scutari unquestioned; Christian Europe and
Turkish Europe ; Leeches ; Pachas ; Buffalos, 50. — Tirana ;
Albanian hawking; Turkish dinner; Al Bassan ; Lake of Ochrida,
52. — Posting facilities; Bad accommodation, 54. — Pacha at
Monastir; Camels, 55.— Water-ouzel, 56. — Catching a Tartar,
57. — Rapid riding, 58.— Trapped in a pitfall, 59.— Ornithology;
An exceptional Post-master, 60. — Illogical quarantine ; Suffoca
tion; Steeple chasing, 61.
Chapter V.— CONSTANTINOPLE.
Constantinople; Bosphorus scenery, 62. — Freedom of women,
63. — A Martyr to Science; Fires, 65. — Shops; Antiquities, 67.
— Great Reservoir; Cypress Cemeteries, 68. — Prisons; Horses,
70. — Turkish Reforms, 71. — Breaking up of Turkish Empire,
73. — Horse Market; Engage Servant; Turkish Character, 74.
Chapter VI.— ASIA MINOR.
Crossed the Bosphorus; Kartal Dogs; Nicomedia Ferry, 77.
— Fevers, 78. — Silkworms ; Fine Grapes, 79. — Oda Musaffer ;
Brusa; Ascend Mount Olympus, 80. — Native Festival, 85. — Hot
Springs; Return to Moudania, 84. — Arrange March, 85. — Lake
of Appolonia, 86. — Casaba; Course of Rhyndacus, 88. — Tou-
shanlu; Hospitality, 91. — Greek Ruins at Azana, 92. — Trapped
Eagle. — Cemeteries, 95. — Antiquities, 97. — Lions, 98. — Tombs
and Cisterns, 99. — Iasin; Rock Chapel and Tombs; Font ; Sculp
tures, 1 01. —Aksher; Armenians, 107. — Remarkable Causeway,
108. — Road from Antioch to Iconium ; Lose the Road, 109. —
Konia, 110. — Ornithology, 1 12.— Turcoman Tents, 113. — Hostile
Reception at Sulimanje; Aga Outwitted; Comic Finale, 114. —
Lystra; Ruins of Churches; Inscriptions, 116. — Turkish Customs,
119. — Karaman; Cross the Taurus Range, 120. — Fossils; Descent
from the Table-land; Grand Scenery, 121. — Bivouacs; Claudi-
opolis, 122. — Vultures, 123. — Mout ; Chiflik, pretty village ;
Yurook Camps, 124. — Precipitous Descent, 125. — Bivouac amono-
the Turcomans, 126. — Rapid Descent to Selefkeh ; Sheep-
shearing, 127. — Ruins of Seleucia Trachea ; Necropolis, 128. 
Coins, 129. — Rocky Paths; Greek Sculptures, 130. — Corj'cus;

CONTENTS OF VOL. I. xiii
Danger of Robbers, 131. — Greek Tombs, 133.— Sarcophagi, 134.
— Ingenious Sportsman ; Ruins at Soli ; Receding of the Sea,
135. — Thunderstorm; Tarsus; Curious Building; Limit of
Egyptian Frontier; Cilician Gates, 136.
Chapter VIL— SYRIA.
Mr. W. Barker; Falconry, 139. — Egyptian Troops, 140. — Sleep
in Stables ; Gazelles ; Battle Plain of Issus ; Kutchuk Ali of
Bayas, 141. — Scanderoon, 142. — Antioch; Destruction of Ancient
Walls, 143. — Enormous Water Wheels ; Visit to Suadea; Seleucia
Pieria ; Roman Works ; Catacombs, 144. — Daphne; Panthers;
Ruined Church ; Mulberry Plantations, 146. — Ruined Church
and Pillar of Simon Stylites on Mountain ; Return to Antioch,
147. — Orontes, 148. — Roman Statue, 149. — Arago ; Castle at
Kerim, 150. — A Deserted Village; Lost our Way; Fear of Con
scription; Ibrahim Pacha; Pig Fanning, 151. — Aleppo; Consular
Hospitality; Charles Barker; Good Houses, 153. — Syrian Society,
156. — An Original; Gazelle Hunters, 157. — The Evil Eye, 158. —
The Aleppo Boil ; Hunting, 160. — A Clever Rogue ; Earthquake,
1 6 1. — Winter Travelling; Egyptian Cavalry, 162. — Dearth of
Water; Milk, 163. — Hamah, 164. — Banishment of Jews, 165. —
Horns; Sold Horses, 168. — Coins; Forgeries; Languages, 170.
— No Horses to be had ; Hired Donkeys to cross the Lebanon ;
Slept in Huts, 171. — Wolves and Boar, 172. — Telabbas; Egyptian
Oppression; Heavy Rains; Tripoli, 173. — Davison, 174. —
Ladies and Oranges, 175. — Trade; Hired Horses, 176. — Djouni;
Benighted ; Beyrout ; Consular Service ; Death of Lady Hester
Stanhope; Camel mill, 178. — Remains of Berytus; Druses, 183.
— Cruelty of Governor; Part with Servant; Emir Beshir, 184. —
Sidon; Rains, 185. — Suleiman Pacha; Mutualis, r86. — Tyre ;
Weather-bound; Horace Vernet, 188.

Chapter VIIL— PALESTINE.
Acre; History; Convent; Kishon; Carmel; Organ; Elijah
Purple Dye; Kaifa, 190. — Nazareth; Loretto; Rain and Mud
Plain of Jezreel, 194. — Blue Thrush; Nablous ; Fertility
Samaritans; Barrenness; Old Pentateuch, 196. — Oppression of
Government ; Approach to Jerusalem, 1 99. — The City ; Features
of Country ; Robbing of Pilgrims ; Lies of the Monks ; The

xiv CONTENTS OF VOL. I.
Church not on the Sepulchre; Via-Dolorosa, 202.— Frauds;
Intense Cold; Want of Fuel; Suffocation by Charcoal ; Remains
at Mount Moriah, 204.— Mixed Population ; Discord of Sects ;
Russian Policy; Restoration of Jews; Cause of Missionary
Failure, 208.— Dead Sea; Danger from Arabs; Mosaics, 216. —
Heavy Rains; Egyptian Policy; Joined French Traveller for
Damascus, 218.— Scene with Muleteers; Cavalry; Political;
Suspicious Companion, 219. — Rooks ;. Quagmires ; Fleas;
Tiberias Lake; Bulls of Bashan ; Jordan, 223.— Roman Road;
Arab Family ; Snow Mountains ; Damascus ; Spires ; Handsome
Women; Rumours of the Plague, 227.— Attack on French
Travellers to Palmyra ; Prevented Going ; Persecution of Jews ;
Disappearance of Padre Thoma ; Joined Hadj Ali's Caravan, 231..
— Hasseya; Sheik's Wife, 236.— Broken-legged Camel ; Native
Christians; Horns, 237.— Hadj Ali; Hospitality, 239.— Delicate
Kindness of Camel Drivers; Dirty Accommodation; Camels
swamped in Quagmire ; Wait for Help ; Reflections ; Nature
has few Wants ; Aleppo, 248.

Chapter IX.— ASSYRIA.
Weather-bound ; Purchased Horses ; Quit Aleppo ; Lodge in
Caverns ; Musical Peasants ; Turkish Coolness ; Euphrates
Expedition, 245. — Battle of Nezib ; Ainsworth's Escape; Bir;
Ibis ; Ferry ; Report of Robbers ; Return to Bir ; Armenians,
248. — Orfa ; European Instructors in Egyptian Army ; Dr.
Comnenus; Majoun Bey; Troops to attack Arabs, 251. — Bitter
Bread ; Koordish Camps ; Flocks ; The Bey's Son ; Ayoub Bey ;
Migration of Koords ; Arab Inroads ; Loss of Herds ; A
second Job; Jew Traveller; Ras-el-Ain; Arab Chief; Sulphur
Springs, 254. — Persian Greyhounds; Native Generosity, 261. —
Danger of Robbers ; Mardin ; Snow ; Nisibin History ; Jovian,
266. — Dispute with Aga ; Ruins ; Dangerous Ford ; Tigris ; Ford
Torrent ; Perilous Bridge ; Jezirah ; Peculiar Dress ; Track of
the 10,000 Greeks; Peaceful Travelling, 266. — Nestorians ;
Superstition ; Zacu ; Koord Chief ; Eastern Position ; Bashi-
bozeuk tyranny ; Natural Religion ; Mounds ; Mosul ; Koord's
Revenge, 274. — Ruins of Al Hadr; Crossed Desert; Wild Boar;
Kala Shergat ; Vain Search for Ruins ; Lose Hope ; Rain ; Dis
covered Ruins ; Arab Camp ; Friendly Sheik ; Examined Ruins ;
History; Suspicious Arabs; Return to Mosul, 284. — Leave

CONTENTS OF VOL. I. XV
Mosul; Rafts; Falling Banks; Hamrin Hills; Mayflies, 301. —
Beautiful Scenery ; Date Groves ; Coracles ; Bagdad ; Steamers ;
Heat, 306. — Ctesiphon ; Hostility of Arabs ; Heat ; Vaults and
Housetops ; Ageel ; Mosquitoes, 3 1 1 . — Persian Prince's Ad
venture; Shot Arab; White Donkeys, 314. — Leave for Ruins of
Babylon ; Birs Nimrood ; Similarity of Hindu and Assyrian
Buildings; Dangerous Fall; Return to Bagdad, 316.
Chapter X.— PERSIA.
Study Persian ; Money ; Frontier Unsafe ; Leave Bagdad ;
Persian Fanaticism; Friend in Need; Threats; Dangerous
Dispute with Villagers ; Report of Robbers ; Kasr Shireen ;
Irene ; Night Meeting, 324. — French Ambassador, M. de Sercy ;
Daoudee ; Remnant of Jews ; Site of Holwan ; Sculptures ; Ilyat
Tribes, 333. — Kermanshah ; Smoke Sellers ; Ice ; Difficulties
with Government ; Moonshee ; Obliged to go to meet the Shah ;
Sculptures ; Tak i Bostan ; Harps ; Inscriptions ; Besitoon ;
Various Interpretations ; Cuneiform ; Kangowar ; Cufic Inscrip
tion, 342. — Arrival of the Shah; Detained as Spies; Rascality
of Persians; Meerza Ali; Marched with Army; Hamadan; Dust-
storms ; Camel Artillery ; Russian Diplomacy ; Weak Govern
ment; Right of Sanctuary; Confusion of March; Mohammed
Shah under Vizier, 354. — Hamadan; Mahmoud Khan of
Shavarin ; Hawking and Shooting ; Inscriptions ; Meerza
Aghassi ; Mercurial Vizier, but impracticable and ignorant ;
Persian Falsehood ; Kindness of Baron Bode ; Released from
Supervision and allowed to proceed ; Decided to go by Herat,
3^4-

ILLUSTRATIONS.

Photograph .
Cettigne .
Temple, Azana
Ruins and Sarcophagu
Rock Church, Iasin
Rock Tombs .
Marble Font .
Gate of Konia
Church, Lystra
Mout (Claudiopolis)
Greek Tombs .
Hamah, Orontes .
Tripoli, Syria
Bridge, Nahr Ibrahim
Convent, Carmel .
Sassa, Antilebanon
DamascusAleppo Ruins of Al Hadr
Plans of Al Hadr
Arch of Chosroes, Ctesiphon
Babylon .
Kermanshah .
Tak-i-Bostan .

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A LAND MARCH FROM
ENGLAND TO CEYLON
FORTY YEARS AGO.

CHAPTER I.
London to Venice.
In the year 1839, after five years' residence and travelling
in Morocco, I found myself in the unenviable position of
being without occupation, when my attention was directed
to the probability of employment in the colony of Ceylon,
either in the Government service or in the newly opened
enterprise of coffee planting, and thither I resolved to
proceed. To reach Ceylon I must either take the long
sea voyage round the Cape, or the shorter and inconvenient
one by the Mediterranean and Red Sea, with the caravan
across the Isthmus of Suez. But moved by a love of
travel, after consulting the map, I resolved to undertake
the journey entirely by land. By taking a south-east line
through Southern Europe, Central Asia, and India^I could
reach my destination with no more sea than the Straits
of Dover, the ferry of the Bosphorus, and the Strait of
Adam's Bridge, through most interesting and little known
countries. At this time a friend introduced to me a relation of his
who he thought would accompany me. I was somewhat
taken aback by his youthful appearance, he being nearly

2 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
a decade younger than myself; however, on explaining
my plans, he decided to join me in the journey, and as
in case of danger or sickness in the barbarous regions
to be traversed, it was a satisfaction to feel that neither
would be alone, we were soon agreed.1 It was impossible
to foresee how long this journey would require, but it
was clear to me that it must be carried out in the
most economical manner ; my previous experience among
Orientals having taught me that nothing but an appearance
of poverty could carry us with any safety through countries
where any show of wealth, by exciting the cupidity of the
natives, would expose us, if not to the danger of life, to
the certainty of being plundered. How to carry the little
money required was a matter of difficulty, for although
I found paper could be cashed at Constantinople ; and by
the Consul at Aleppo, and the Resident at Bagdad as a
matter of courtesy and kindness ; there was still the
necessity of carrying a supply on the long tract between
Bagdad and India, and that had to be left for future
arrangement. I resolved never to resort to disguise, which
is both impolitic and useless. It is impolitic because the
open profession of an Englishman, accompanied by ordi
nary prudence, will always be found the greatest safeguard
to the traveller in all Eastern countries. It is useless,
because in no case have I ever known an Oriental deceived
by it: with their keen natural faculties they will detect
a Frank in disguise at a distance, even before speaking
to him, and his danger is increased in proportion to the
suspicion he thus incurs.
It would be necessary to be armed in the East, as the
fact of carrying arms usually prevents the necessity for
using them ; an unarmed man is the most helpless animal
in creation, and meets with very little respect among lawless
and uncivilized tribes. But I am anticipating my journal.
1 I may as well mention here that my fellow-traveller accompanied me as
far as Hamadan in Persia, when, to my great regret, we parted company, he
returning home by Bushire and Bagdad, and I continuing the other half of the
journey alone.

LONDON TO VENICE. J
All business matters being arranged, it required a master
spirit of enterprise to quell one's own misgivings, and com
bat the apprehensions and dissuasions of friends, natural
under the circumstances of a long and unknown journey ;
and then came the wrench of parting from those dear to
me and whom I might never meet again. Eventually,
on the ioth of July, I started from London by the night
coach from the Spread Eagle, Regent Circus, in twelve
hours to Dover, and crossed to Calais; and thence to
Brussels, where my fellow-traveller, who had come by
Ostend, joined me. The new railway took us on to Liege,
the rapidity of the transit making the contrast more strik
ing between the dirt and discomfort of the manufacturing
town, with its dense atmosphere impregnated with smoke
from its iron works and gun factories, and the elegance
and convenience of Brussels. I visited the factory at
Chaudesfontaines to provide myself with a gun. The
Belgian guns are furnished with slings and very light,
which, foreseeing the weary marches in the East through
which I should have to carry it slung to my back, was an
important consideration. At Aix-la-Chapelle we found
ourselves surrounded by streams of pilgrims, thronging all
the thoroughfares converging towards the town, this being
the septennial exhibition of the relics. Crowds of people
from all quarters resort to the town to witness this
periodical deception. From the top of a turret a priest
exhibited the different articles to the deluded multitude.
Among other things offered to their devotion were a shirt
or frock five and a half feet long, said to have been worn
by the Virgin Mary ! the swaddling-clothes of the Infant
made of yellow felt! the bloody cloth on which St. John
the Baptist was beheaded! besides Charlemagne's crown
and hunting horn, and a variety of other articles, as
efficacious in cleansing the souls of their votaries as the
black stone of the Kaaba, the tooth of Buddh, or the
waterpot of Foh.
July 10. — After visiting- the exquisite Cathedral of
Cologne, we embarked in a steamer on the Rhine. The

4 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
scenery of this river has been much exaggerated, and
those who believe the imaginary accounts of it would be
disappointed. From the water, the Drachenfels and other
scattered ruins that crown the heights do not form fine
views, having no background. About Bingen and St.
Goar, however, the scenery is very fine, and doubtless the
river would be more to be appreciated and the country
appear more picturesque and to greater advantage if seen
from the hills on its banks. At Coblentz the Moselle
loses itself in the broad Rhine opposite the palace of
Ehrenbreitstein, a large barrack-looking building. The
timber rafts floating down the river have the appearance
of small islands with wooden villages built on them.
There are sweeps at the borders for the purpose of guiding
them, which are the more necessary since the placidity of
the waters has been greatly disturbed by the paddle-wheels
of steamers. At Manheim the banks of the river are flat
and marshy, and swarm with mosquitoes. We disem
barked here, and meeting another English traveller, the
Hon. Mr. Saville, we joined in the hire of a travelling
carriage, which was not more expensive, and a more
independent and expeditious mode of travelling than by
Diligence or Eilwagen. The town is large, but seems to
be very thinly peopled, few persons being seen in its solitary
streets. Heidelberg, on the beautiful Neckar, is a more
lively place, being the seat of a university. The magnificent
ruined castle is much finer than anything I saw on the
Rhine. The place is full of students, and the women
struck me as being generally handsome. Poverty, which
with our Collegians is looked on as the greatest reproach,
not to say as a crime, is held very lightly by the German
students, and as a circumstance to which no idea of shame
is attached. A great proportion of these youths are in
the habit of begging their way to and from college. They
are met with knapsack and stick travelling on the roads
leading to it, seldom failing to prefer their respectful
solicitations at the traveller's carriage window, but, greatly
to the credit of the people, they are housed and fed by

LONDON TO VENICE. 5
their own fellow-countrymen. Stuttgardt was the next
large town we came to. This, the capital of Wurtemburg,
is named from the Stud attached to the palace, and which
I visited. The stables have stalls for 250 horses, and were
nearly full. There were many fine horses, which were
pointed out as Barbs or Arabs ; but from the prevalence of
black in their colours, I should say that most of them
belonged to a more northern race, as the black is scarce in
Barbary, and more so in Arabia, but when procurable are
very superior in spirit and endurance, and are highly valued.
Like Manheim, this place, although the seat of a Court,
appears thinly inhabited, and there are few besides the
passing traveller to admire the fine statue of Schiller in
bronze, by Thorwaldsen, which ornaments one of its
squares. The country traversed is fine, but the only
novelty is the extensive cultivation of the poppy.
July 24.. — Crossing the Danube at Ulm, we entered
Bavaria, passing through what was once the Black Forest,
now only existing in scattered patches of wood, and
reached the fine old city of Augsburg. Here again the
place has an appearance of lonely desolation, heightened
by the effect of the spacious streets and antique
buildings, which still retain many of the fresco paint
ings with which they were adorned, and force on the
mind the present contrast to its former grandeur, when
Augsburg was an emporium of the commerce of the East.
The churches still give evidence of this having been the
chief thoroughfare of the Levantine trade, by the mixture
of the Byzantine with the Gothic style of architecture, as
evidenced in the brazen doors and melon-shaped domes of
the cathedral. Munich, our next halting-place— has quite
a modern appearance, having been nearly rebuilt by the
present King of Bavaria.
Meeting with other travellers going the same road to
wards Venice, we continued the joint hire of post carriages.
We followed up the valley of the Iser towards the ascent
of the Tyrolese Alps, passing several lovely lakes. The
Kokelsee has been likened to Loch Katrine. This small

6 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
sheet of water has a pretty village on its south shore, while
the opposite side is bordered by rugged cliffs. After
ascending about 550 feet, by the "margin of a small torrent
which descends the pass in a succession of cascades, we
came suddenly to another most beautiful lake — the Wal-
lersee — embosomed in lofty mountains. It is about three
miles across. The colour of this lovely sheet is an in
tense dark blue, and the dark pine forests rise in majestic
sweeps from its edge to the mist-canopied peaks. After
halting to admire the solitary grandeur of this retired spot,
we followed a narrow road along the margin of the lake, and
passed the night at an uncomfortable inn in a little village.
The occupation of the inhabitants is fishing in the lake,
which abounds in fine trout and a fish peculiar to it called
" Rengen," which would appear to be a species of grayling,
and is much prized for its delicacy. The road continues
ascending through the most splendid scenery of precipitous
rocks and crags ; the most striking object being the superb
peak of the Mittenwald, shooting clear and grey into the
sky above a zone of snowy clouds. As the rocks recede,
dark green hills appear crowned with the ruins of feudal
castles. The Austrian frontier is crossed at the little
fortified post of Mittenwald-on-the-Iser, and the road still
ascends to Seefeld. The rocks on this high ridge are
composed of a bituminous shale, from which mineral tar
is extracted. From here the road rapidly descends through
the same grand scenery towards the vale of the Inn, and
at a turning near Zirl opens the most glorious view im
aginable, combining at once every feature of grandeur and
beauty. Below winds the river Inn through bright verdant
fields, a lovely valley ; from which the wooded slopes rise
gracefully, with the picturesque chalets and villages of the
Tyrolese peasants hanging on their sides half hidden by
foliage, or crowning their tops : above these the dark un
broken pine forest stretches far away, clothing mountain
ridge and ravine, up to the limit where vegetation is
arrested, from whence the stupendous craggy peaks and
rocky cones shoot their aspiring heads into the very clouds

LONDON TO VENICE. 7
revealing here and there in their sheltered recesses glittering
glaciers and fields of snow. In the foreground are the old
castles of Fewsburg and Frangestein ; you wind round a
ledge on which the road is formed, and above which the
tremendous wall of the Lobstein rises nearly perpendicular
to the height of 1000 feet This place is celebrated for
the escape of the Emperor Maximilian, who was saved
from a descent over this sheer precipice by an outlawed
Jager. From some points of the road a wooden cross is
just visible (though 20 feet in height) where his fall was
arrested. In the magnificent valley above described lies the fine
old town of Innspruck, beautifully situated on the river,
and surrounded by towering mountains. Innspruck is
full of reminiscences of the patriot Hofer, whose memory
is justly revered by his fellow-countrymen. The antique-
looking hotel we occupy is the house he lived in, of which
the landlady is not a little proud, and has hung his portrait
in all the rooms : his battles and exploits fill the shop
windows, and in the principal church his tomb lies by the
splendid monument of Maximilian I. It was at Innspruck
that the deliverer of his country made his triumphant
entry after defeating the French invaders, and forcing-
them to evacuate the Tyrol. Sad reverse! Six months
afterwards, Austrian gratitude basely betrayed this heroic
patriot to be shot by his coward foes at Mantua.
The present Austrian Government has seen the good
policy of treating these mountaineers with indulgence,
even granting them the privilege of being protected by
their own militia. The troops employed in the town are
rifle regiments embodied from their own peasantry. It
would be dangerous to push the Tyrolese to resistance
by oppression ; for, with the natural advantages of their
country and union among themselves, this hardy race
might defy the strongest nation in Europe. The rifle
is their national weapon, and their enemies during the
war with France had good proof of their skill with it,
as well as of their general bravery, when -from 1808

* FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
until the murder of Hofer by Napoleon in 1810, they
were invariably vanquished, and twice driven out of the
country. The Tyrolese are a very fine race, with an independent
bearing, and frank and open countenances. They are
honest and courteous to strangers, without obsequiousness,
and, living familiar with some of the grandest scenes of
Nature, their minds are elevated by a marked spirit of
devotion. Their character is equally removed from that
of their mercurial Italian neighbours on the South and the
heavy apathetic Germans on the North. Their costume
nearly resembles the dress of the peasants of Andalusia ;
trousers reaching only to the knee, with leggings, a jacket
and sash, with either a round or conical broad-brimmed
hat ornamented with bands of ribands and a few cocks'
feathers ; they also wear the large Spanish cloak of broad
cloth. The natural formation of the country not admitting of
extensive cultivation, the chief resource of the peasantry
-consists in their flocks, which remain out grazing for six
months of the year in the mountains : the day of their
return, which is about Michaelmas, is celebrated like the
Italian return from the vintage, or our harvest home.
The wild strains of the Tyrol are now familiar to all
lovers of melody : they possess the inspiring brilliancy
peculiar to all mountain music, whether its echoes re
verberate among the hills of Wales, the highlands of Scot
land, or these mountains of the Tyrol. Parties of peasants
wander about the continent procuring a living by their
performances at fairs and country inns ; and in the large
towns of Germany a group of these nature-taught musicians
are often seen playing to a group of delighted dancers or
listened to by a party of stolid Germans, whose beer and
pipes are almost forgotten in the enjoyment of their wild
minstrelsy. I have omitted to notice all the objects of interest and
curiosity in the towns visited, as they are given in full
detail in all the guide books ; but I cannot pass over the

LONDON TO VENICE. 9
imposing array of colossal statues that stand round the
splendid cenotaph of Maximilian I. in the Hofkirche.
These statues (twenty-eight in number) are beautifully
executed in bronze — eight of them represent females, and
the exquisite finishing of the armour, and the minute and
delicate workmanship of the lace on the dresses, and 'the
folds of the drapery are perfectly astonishing. Besides
their value as elaborate works of art, they are most
interesting as a record of the dresses of the time. They
were executed by Tyrolese artists about the year 1530,
and each cast in one piece.
Quitting Innspruck, after lingering to contemplate the
magnificent scenery from the ridge of the Schonberg, we
entered the gloomy precipitous pass of the Brenner. At
Steinach we had a dinner of mountain fare — fine-flavoured
trout from the brawling brook, Alpine strawberries and
cream, delicious fresh butter and bread, which here, as
throughout Germany, are excellent. We slept at the pic
turesque village of Mitwald on the little foaming Eisach.
At these wild retired villages and country inns, a stranger
is received more as a friend than a customer, and often
meets with the kind sympathies of home among these un
sophisticated people. We passed through the Puztherthal
by the course of the Rienz. At one part of this, in a barren
valley near Nudendorf, are four churches in a row, each
with a spire in a different style. The first is covered with
round scales and resembles a serpent's tail, the second is
Byzantine, the fourth an octagonal dome. These Oriental
'-— domes are usually covered with glittering tin.
We then began the descent of the Ampezzo, a pass
of wild magnificence, through which a fine road has been
constructed by the Austrian Government, completed in
1833. This is a beautiful work of engineering skill: in
many places it winds along the face of precipices of several
hundred feet, where the rock has been blasted away to
leave a ledge for the road, while the beetling crags project
threateningly overhead. Much of the road is supported by
walls of masonry built up from the gulf. The stupendous

IO FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
mountain scenery, which is viewed from this road at every
turn, is of a grandeur which it were useless to attempt to
describe and which actually exhausts admiration. From
the depths of the valleys the dark pine forests run up to
the base of the crags which spring from them in precipitous
and naked majesty, their summits rising in castellated
ranks, mass on mass, in ragged points into the far blue
ether: in some places the rocky mountains are dashed
with broad white glaciers, like frozen cataracts arrested
in their descent ; in others, striped with long white ravines
filled with snow : half-way down, the peaks are festooned
with fleecy clouds, and masses of vapour cling suspended
to the stony ledges, so immoveable, they seem part of
the rock itself; but language fails in such scenes, which
can only be contemplated in silence. We passed several
lakes, and at the foot of a stupendous mountain-wall, whose
head was hid in clouds, the road passes over mounds of
rubbish and masses of rock, the evidence of a huge ruin
which, about twenty years ago, burst from the summit of
the cliffs, and rushing down into the valley carried destruc
tion in its desolating course. It overwhelmed the village
at its base ; but, heedless of the devastation around them,
and the rent and threatening masses above them, the
peasants have reared another village on the same spot.
Leaving this glorious pass, we entered Italy at Cortina.
The marked change in the people within the distance of
a few miles on crossing this frontier is strikingly illustrative
of the force of national character. I apply the contrast to
the Germans generally, not merely to the Tyrolese, who are
confined to their own Alps. In the German frontier towns,
and more so in the interior, the arrival of a traveller excites
neither curiosity nor notice ; no one leaves his occupation
or allows himself to be moved from his happy state of
apathy by what does not concern him. The German post
master or aubergiste takes what you give him with the most
stolid nonchalance, and appears to consider the quiescent
state of his bilious system of more consequence than the
mere loss or gain of the current coin of the realm, nor can

LONDON TO VENICE. II
I remember in traversing the whole country having a word
of altercation with any one with whom I had dealings :
here, on the contrary, we are no sooner in this Italian
frontier town, Cortina, than we are assailed by a crowd of
noisy boys and beggars, and the post-master, the inn
keepers, the ostlers, and' every one we have to deal with
are exerting all their powers, mental and physical, to over
reach and impose upon us. The change is certainly for
the worse ! A moonlight drive through hills and lakes
brought us to the plains of Conegliano — a flat but beautiful
country covered with vineyards. The vineyards of Spain
and France are far from pleasing in appearance, they
resemble fields of stunted hops, being pruned down and
trained on short sticks ; here in Italy the vines are allowed
to grow in wild luxuriance, trained on high trellis and
carried from tree to tree, from which they hang in rich
and elegant festoons.
July jr. — We hastened on to Venice, passing through
Treviso, and embarked in a large boat at Mestre, passing
down a canal into the lagunes. The boatmen sang their
national airs and chanted the verses of Tasso as they
rowed towards the city, which now began to rear its
long line of houses and spires from the bosom of the sea.
It seemed a " beautiful illusion." At a Custom House on
an island half-way across the water, we were civilly told
that for " qualchi fiorini " our baggage would pass without
examination or delay. We willingly closed with this frank
proposition, the morality of which seemed questionable, but
was probably consistent with the customs of this amphibious
country. We floated onward towards the Ocean Queen,
which now stood forth majestically above the surface of its
dark sea waters. "A little while I stood
Breathing with such suppression of the heart
As joy delights in."
And then we threaded the silent canals between vistas of
sombre palaces towering up in architectural grandeur, their
inverted ranges mirrored in the placid wave. The silence

12 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
of this city is quite startling. No sound of wheels is heard
or noise of horse hoofs. I could fancy myself translated to
a world of spirits : an impressive sensation of solemnity
hung over the city like a shroud, and it seemed to mock
the glare of the noonday sun. When we glided out of the
liquid lanes into the Grand Canal, the scene was magnifi
cent ; this broad street of water being bordered by the
noblest palaces ; and the elegant domed churches appear
to float like enchanted islands on the precarious element,
over whose rippling surface flitted hundreds of black
funereal gondolas. These gondolas must have presented a
very animated appearance in former times, when they were
highly ornamented with gold and embroidered hangings,
and the curtains of the awnings emblazoned with armorial
bearings and cognizances of the Venetian nobility and
men of rank. The party animosity and family feuds
which were kept alive by these distinctive badges have
induced the Austrian Government to forbid this indulgence
of luxury, and the gondolas are now all painted black, and
the cabins and awnings covered with black velvet and silk
fringes. This contributes not a little to the first supernatural
impression one experiences in the noiseless city. We landed
at the front door of the hotel, the steps of which descend to
the water. This is the first town I have visited which of
itself overpays the trouble of reaching it : it far surpasses
anything I had imagined, and I felt that a journey far
longer would have been amply compensated for by such
a satisfactory termination.
Venice is not, however, wholly destitute of streets, or
rather alleys, these diverge from the Place St. Marc, the
lower stories of the houses being occupied as shops : they
intersect the canals by numerous elegant white marble
bridges, of which there are between three and four hundred.
The Rialto is a larger bridge, spanning the Grand Canal,
bordered on each side by shops. The Place St. Marc is
very superb as a whole, though most incongruous in its
details. One side is formed by St. Marc's Church, with its
singular mixture of cupolas and spires, a handsome pile

LONDON TO VENICE.

13

though without regularity. Over the portico of this Oriental
structure stand the fat Chian horses which have acquired
such historical importance. The Venetians, however, had
no more claim to these statues than the Parisians, except
the prior right of plunder, they having carried them off
from Byzantium. The church is gorgeous with gilding
and mosaic. The Campanile is a lofty square Moorish
Minaret, resembling the tower of the Kitibeea, the great
Mosque of Morocco. The interior of the Doge's Palace
is richly gilded and stuccoed, and the walls moulded into
frames, which are panelled with the splendid and invalu
able paintings from the pencils of Titian, Tintoretto, Palma,
Paul Veronese, and others. The chef-d'oeuvre of Tin
toretto, called the Glories of Paradise, fills the entire end
wall of the great hall, and is a magnificent production.
Above the cornice of this hall are the portraits of the line
of Doges. The black curtain still covers that of Marino
Faliero, who was called a traitor for wishing to alter the
established order of things in the state. Under this palace
are the dungeon cells, they are below the surface, of the
water and are without light or ventilation ; some of these cells
were lined with boards which had been partly burnt by the
French under Napoleon, who was jealous of any tyranny
but his own. Among the often described objects of interest
in this place is a handsome gilded model of the Bucentaur,
the elegant galley in which the Doges went in state to wed
the Adriatic. Two days was the time I could afford to see
Venice, but I cannot quit it without describing the ravish
ing scene we witnessed on the evening after our arrival.
We were sitting at ten o'clock at night on the balcony
overlooking the expanse of water at the head of the Grand
Canal, enjoying the coolness and stillness of the hour ;
around rose the elegant domed churches and antique
palaces, relieved against the sky and reflected in the water :
several vessels lay sleeping on the basin, their motionless
masts shooting up into the southern sky, and the gondolas
with their twinkling lights and noiseless oar flitting about
like dark spirits of evil, the silence scarcely broken by the

14 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
occasional swell of some half-heard song. Presently a
large illuminated barge was seen approaching ; it took up
a station close under the window where we were sitting,
and a flood of harmony, which burst forth and was wafted
over the silent waters, soon showed us the object of the
visitors. We ascertained that a general officer had estab
lished his quarters in the same hotel, and the Austrian
commandant had sent this serenade for his gratification.
The Austrian military music is deservedly celebrated, and
this barge contained a full band, which remained for two
hours playing a variety of overtures and opera music in
the most brilliant style. The numerous lights (for each
musician was furnished with one) gleamed on the hand
some white Austrian uniforms, and flashed and flickered
on the surrounding ripple, darkening the distance which
before was visible, and the delicious music rose in volumes
of melody on the breathless air, attracting a fleet of
gondolas from their pursuits of pleasure or occupation.
Before the music ended, the scene had changed, the moon,
which had some time risen, emerged from a bed of gilded
clouds, pouring a sudden flood of radiance over the still
waters, and revealed, clear and distinct, the grand vista of
palaces on the canal, the noble buildings and churches
rising scarcely distinguished from their shadows out of the
smooth mirror, and the black gondolas gliding away in all
directions, as if alarmed at the sudden blaze of moonlight.
It was a scene of enchantment.
To avoid travelling round the head of the Adriatic, we
crossed over in a steamer to Trieste. It was a lovely
summer evening when I reluctantly left this magnificent
city and watched its spires pass away, like a dream,
in the ruddy west, whilst I mused on its departed glory.
It originally sprang from the ashes of Aquilea. When
that place was destroyed by Attila and his Huns, the
fugitive inhabitants, who escaped, fled for safety to these
rocks, on which eventually rose the Mistress of the Medi
terranean. What was it that raised this reef of rocks to
its height of opulence and power? Commerce! It is as

LONDON TO VENICE. I J
necessary to the existence of a nation as the circulation
of the blood to the body ; check the vivifying stream,
decay begins — stop it, ensues death. Venice was the
Mart of the East : the treasures of Asia poured into her
harbours : the full tide of traffic washed her shores, and
she rose to glory and renown. Venice, whose merchants
were princes, ruled the destinies of nations, and the Lion
of St. Marc spread its protecting wings over land and sea.
By the enterprise of the Western nations of Europe, and
consequent discovery of the passage round the Cape, the
artery of commerce was diverted from Venice into other
channels : she fell, and now " she sitteth solitary that was
great among the nations," and her wingless lion half-buried
among the ruins of her once dependent towns, is all that
reveals to the passing stranger from a distant land the
wide extent of her former dominion.

i6

CHAPTER II.
DALMATIA.
August j. — We slept in our cloaks on the deck of
the steamer, and were aroused by the morning sun rising
over the mountains of Illyria. We landed at Trieste, a
modern seaport town, with a crowded and bustling popula
tion. It presents a strong contrast to Venice, on the ruins
of whose commercial prosperity this place has raised itself
to its present importance. As the highest range of the
tide is only four feet from low to high-water mark, a broad
dock or harbour, open to the sea, has been carried into the
centre of the town. On either side of this dock are built
offices and warehouses, and the ships discharge their
cargoes at the merchants' doors. All the merchandise
is transported in bullock carts, and the bullocks are shod
with iron, which appeared to give them a precarious foot
ing, as the streets are paved all across with smooth flag
stones. As we were now on the confines of civilization, we
remained here a few days to make enquiries respecting the
road through Dalmatia, and to purchase hammocks, saddles,
and other articles which we expected very shortly to have
occasion for. We put up at a large cheerless inn, but
soon found out another kept by a portly Englishman, who
presided in old English style at the head of his table.
There is an English church, to which I went, and found
the service well attended, a proof of the number of English
residents. Trieste is subject to high winds, and is very
destitute of trees. There is a promenade where all the
inhabitants resort in the evenings : it overlooks the Bay,
and terminates in an auberge and grounds, called " il Bos-
chetto," in honour of a few stunted and scattered trees

DALMATIA.

'7

which are valued in proportion to their rarity. It is, how
ever, a pretty scene, the different parties wandering about
or sitting at the tables, eating ices or quaffing beer in the
true German fashion, from large crystal mugs. All the
women have the head uncovered, and their hair beautifully
dressed as if for a ball, and so particular are they in this
respect that the poorest servant girl would rather go with
out a dinner than not be able to employ a coiffeur to dress
her hair for the evening promenade. I witnessed a similar
vanity, but in the other extreme, at Cadiz, where the
graceful Andalusian will deprive herself of every comfort
to be able to display her pretty little feet in open-work silk
stockings. The inhabitants are a mixed race of Germans,
Italians, and Greeks. The country people are Sclavonians,
and the women who come to town on market days might
be taken for nuns : they wear black robes and a large white
napkin edged with lace tied round the head and hanging
down the back. The intelligence we could obtain respecting
the roads through Dalmatia was anything but satisfactory ;
travelling being represented as attended with great danger
both by natives and English, many of whom should have
known better, as their reports were without foundation ;
it was however too early, at the very outset of a protracted
journey, to pay any attention to stories of this sort. From
hence we sent off our heavier baggage by sea to Constan
tinople to await our arrival, and took with us only a few
clothes, and our guns, and saddles, which latter we ex
pected soon to exchange for the wheel carriages which
seemed to become more scarce and ricketty in proportion
to the increasing impracticability of the roads.
The road from Trieste to Fiume is through— the wild
barren mountainous district of Istria : the only percep
tible signs of cultivation are in small hollows, where the
rain has settled and redeemed small strips of land from
the surrounding sterility. Although Trieste is a free
port, it is only so from the sea-board, the intercourse with
the interior being regulated by Custom Houses placed on
the roads communicating with it. At the one we passed
voi 1. 2

1 8 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
we were put to great inconvenience by the conduct of a
blustering Englishman, who travelled in the post phaeton
with us. The officials were quite inclined to let us pass
unmolested, had they been treated with proper civility ; but
the threats of our companion, and his questioning their
right to stop us, was the cause of the whole carriage being
unpacked, and every article belonging to us undergoing a
rigorous search. The numerous peasants we met were tall
fine-looking men. They invariably stopped and saluted
us by taking off their broad-brimmed hats. They possess
in this district a beautiful breed of cattle, which are very
large and perfectly white, with black eyes and horns tipped
with black, more than three feet long. I can scarcely think
these animals indigenous. The historians of Alexander
mention that he was so struck with the beauty of the
Indian cattle that he sent a number of them to Macedonia,
whence the breed has probably been .dispersed to the
adjoining provinces. The approach to Fiume is very
beautiful from the heights. It lies on a noble bay, enclosed
by several bold wooded islands, which give it the appear
ance of an extensive lake, the mountains rising all round
abruptly from the water's edge. The town is prettily
situated at the foot of the hills ; above it, on the crest
of a hill, is a picturesque castle, the property of Count
Nugent. We met with much" kindness from Mr. Smith,
an English merchant, who, knowing we were anxious to
obtain information respecting the road before us, intro
duced us to the officers of a Hungarian regiment that
had just marched up from the south of Dalmatia, whither
we were going. One of these, Lieut. Klenz, very obligingly
furnished us with an itinerary of the road, together wkh
notes of recommendation to the municipal authorities of
the different towns and stations. The information and
assistance afforded us by this intelligent young officer were
of essential service to us. I saw here a specimen of the
subterranean reptile, the Proteus Anguinis, which inhabits
the waters of mines and caverns ; I believe this one was
brought from the caves of Adelsberg. It is rather more

DALMATIA.

19

than a foot long, resembling an eel, with four slender
legs : the front pair, which are close to the gills, having
only three toes, and the hind pair two toes each. The
body is grey and translucent, the tail being compressed
vertically, with a fin along the upper and under edge : the
head is flat, with a square muzzle and gills fringed with
a row of small branches : the eyes resemble those of the
mole or bat. The animal appears to be painfully sensitive
to light, endeavouring to avoid it by creeping under the
stones at the bottom of the vessel.
August 10. — The country from Fiume to Segn is ex
tremely barren : with the exception of orchards of apricot
and fig-trees wherever the soil can afford them support.
The road is bordered by bare white hills of rock, only
relieved by the soft foliage of the fragrant wild sage
which springs from every crevice. The broken nature
of the coast, forming chains of lagoons, bounded by
large rocky islands, which stretch out into the' sea,
afford ever-changing lake scenery at every turn of the
road, which winds along the precipitous margin of the
lagoons. At Bucharee, a village on a fine sheet of water
indenting the rocks, the people were busily employed
at the Tunny fishery, which forms so large a branch
of traffic in the Mediterranean. The boats employed are
very light, with a long outrigger on each side, terminated
by a fork in which the oars work, which gives them a
more powerful leverage. Ladders about forty feet long
are fixed upright in the rock at the edge of the water,
with a slight inclination towards the sea. On the top of
these ladders sentinels are constantly on the watch for the
fish coming into the lagoons: the sentinels- are "relieved
every two hours. The water being clear as crystal, the
Tunny are perceived from these elevations at a great
distance. Immediately they appear and enter the lagoons,
the watch gives notice to the fishermen, who go out in their
boats and cut off their retreat to the sea through the narrow
channels, when they are enclosed and captured in large
drag nets. At the village of Porto Re is a turreted castle

20 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
of the Frangipani, and at Novi are the ruins of a castle
draped with ivy, near an old bridge crossing a stream.
Segn is a small town with a square castle on a mound.
From this place we struck inland by a good road winding
up a mountain gorge through forests of oak, the rocks
clothed with wild sage. By the time we had reached a
clear spot on the heights, 1 500 feet above the level of the
sea, the sun was setting like an ardent globe, wrapping
in a glow of purple and orange the chains of islands that
lay slumbering on the water beneath, and casting a ruddy
tinge on the tops of the woods, which rose in verdant
swells to our feet. After a pause to contemplate this
prospect, we plunged once more into the gloom of the
forest, and after descending through a more cultivated
country we reached Zuttaloqua at nine in the evening.
We found here, to our dismay, that we must resign the
ricketty post phaeton and submit to adopt the conveyance
of the country. The phaeton, though uncomfortable, at
least was on springs, but the conveyance now brought out
for us was a long narrow low waggon on four wheels,
without cover or springs of any kind, and drawn by two
horses. On a smooth road these carts are scarcely en
durable, and fortunately for our initiation the road from
this was tolerably level : on the rasping roads we had
subsequently to travel in Dalmatia, it was absolute torture ;
besides this, every article not of solid iron is destroyed by
this road-mill; cloaks and clothes are cut to pieces by
working into the loose joinings of the wood ; vessels and
gun-barrels are broken and bilged by the concussion,
and everything in trunks capable of being ground is
pulverized. I am sorry to say our thermometers were
broken by this rough usage. We packed our chattels in
the cart, and lying down side by side, resigned ourselves
to our fate. Notwithstanding the discomfort, we could
not help enjoying the magnificent starlight. I do not re
member ever having seen so many falling meteors as on
this night : it is no exaggeration to say I could not
count them : hundreds were falling and shooting in all

DALMATIA. 21
directions — a marvellous sight. It was near midnight when
we arrived at Ottochaz, where we disturbed the slumbers
of the postmaster, who came down in his night-dress with
a light, and notwithstanding this untimely intrusion, he
kindly provided us with a bed and sofa, and we slept none
the less soundly for our dislocating drive.
Ottochaz is on a stream which here spreads out into
a small lake. We traversed a thickly-wooded country to
the scattered village of Perusick : the people in their gay
costumes were all flocking to church, and we had to wait
till the service was over before we could procure a change
of carts. The country was cultivated and intersected by
green lanes, and, but for the dresses of the peasants, it
seemed more like a Sunday morning in England.
The next stage is across a plain surrounded by moun
tains, through which runs the river Lika, to the neat little
town of Gospich, at the foot of the Velibich mountains,
which separate Croatia from Dalmatia proper. The people
of these towns speak the Venetian-Italian, although German
is known, and there is little to distinguish them from the
inhabitants of other towns of South Austria. The moun
taineers are entirely a different race : they are called Mor-
lacchi, and inhabit the whole range of mountains which
runs through the narrow territory of Dalmatia, and borders
on the Turkish frontier. The costume of the Morlacchi
is very handsome ; the women wear a white skirt with a
gaudy plaid apron edged with a broad fringe of coloured
worsted, a scarlet boddice and leggings of the same colour,
and an embroidered red cap, from which their black
hair hangs down in long braids. The dress of the men is
a red jacket covered with rows of large silver coins -or
buttons ; full white trousers to the knee, and coloured
sandals ; a scarlet cap, from which their hair hangs over their
shoulders, and large sandy moustachios. They are allowed
by the Austrian Government to continue their custom of
always wearing arms on account of their vicinity to the
Turkish frontier. In the fourteenth century, under the
Venetians, they were a frontier guard ; their usual arms are

22 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
a long gun, a belt with pistols, and a long silver-sheathed
dirk. These mountaineers have a wild appearance, but are
civil and obliging to strangers; among themselves, when
collisions unfortunately take place, the blood feud is kept
up by families with great pertinacity. In all countries
without settled, or with corrupt institutions, revenge is the
substitute for justice, and is cherished as a virtue. The
Morlacchi speak a dialect of Sclavonic, similar, I am told,
to that spoken in Servia. They number 140,000, and are
supposed to have originally left the Turkish dominions to
place themselves under the protection of Venice. Whilst
our dislocator was being made ready, we willingly sat down
to the Sunday dinner of the post-mistress of Gospich ; this
lady wore a slovenly gown sprinkled with ribbons. We
ventured to ask why they did not dress in the handsome
costume of the country : she answered, with an air of
offended dignity, that it was not for ladies and civilized
people to adopt the dress of peasants and mountaineers !
After our repast we made our acknowledgments to our
fashion-trammelled, but kindly hostess, and drove off through
gaily dressed groups lounging about in all the indolence of
a summer Sunday. We passed an old castle on a rocky
eminence at Medai, and changed our waggons at St. Rocco.
Here commences the ascent of the Velibich ; the Austrian
Government has constructed an excellent road over this
range at very great expense. The sides of the mountain
are clothed with dense and gloomy beech forests, and some
of the trees are of enormous girth. These forests give
cover to numerous bears and wolves, for the destruction
of which a reward of from twenty to thirty florins a head
is paid by the Government. Ascending above the range
of wood, we came out on a chaos of barren grey moun
tains, the highest points of which stand 5400 feet above
the level of the sea. In a rocky hollow like a crater we
found two or three houses : this is the frontier station of
Allihallam, perched on the ridge of the pass. The sun
having set, we passed the night here, and a finer situation
for a bandit scene could not well be imagined, nor were

DALMATIA. 23
appropriate characters wanting. In a large room on the
ground floor, adjoining the one occupied by us, the door
of which was open, were grouped around a table on which
stood their drinking cups, as wild a set of demi-savages
as ever struck terror to the heart of a helpless captive ;
they wrangled and drank, and sang songs in their strange
harsh dialect : their revelry, however, did not prevent
our sleeping soundly. My apprehensions were somewhat
aroused the next morning, for, being awoke by a noise in
the room before daylight, the first thing I saw on opening
my eyes was our wild-looking revellers, by the glimmer
of their tin cressets, creeping stealthily about the room,
which they were clearing rapidly of all our property,
packed and unpacked. I shouted to my companion, and
we sprang from our beds to the rescue, when our officious
but well-disposed friends explained that they were packing
our luggage for the cart, which was nearly ready, but had
not thought it necessary to awaken us until the last minute :
an instance of consideration, however ill-judged, that I
scarcely expected from these mountaineers. The descent
was by a zigzag road through picturesque peaks and
masses of rock, which appeared to have been rent from
the overhanging cliffs, and precipitated down the de
clivities. We could see the Morlaccos with their long
guns slung on their backs, disdaining the high road,
climbing through the rocks or springing from crag to
crag up the face of the mountain, which on its south
side is quite bare of wood. Near the bottom of the
descent, a sudden turn revealed a romantic view of the
town of Obervazzo, lying in a valley at the foot of a
bold mound crowned with the ruins of a Venetian castle :
around it winds the deep still Zermagna, in whose stream
every feature of the scene is minutely depicted. A long
wooden bridge spans the river, over which we passed.
No accommodation was to be found in this retired town,
and we were compelled to sit with our baggage in a
barber's shop until fresh horses were sent for. The ancient
name of this place was Argyruntum ; we climbed to the

24 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
ruined castle, which was of little interest : before pro
ceeding, we were obliged to attend the summons of the
Praetor to produce our passports. This official was an ex
ception to his class, from whom we generally experienced
the greatest politeness: he could not read, but endeavoured
to conceal his ignorance by rudeness and an assumption of
importance. After some cross-examination, as follows : P.
"SieteMilitari?" No, Signore. P. "Siete Negocianti?" No,
Signore. P. " Dunque Siete Milordi ! " satisfied with which
conclusion, he signed or put his mark to our passports, and
we set off through a barren country to Smilchich. Here we
were told that there was no post-waggon to be obtained.
The ragged post-boy who had brought us from Obervazzo
could not be induced to proceed with the one we had come
in, and we began to think that our journey on horseback
was to begin here. At length, however, the discovery was
made of an old dilapidated cart, which was dragged to
light from the depths of an out-house, where it had long
lain in oblivion. The sides of this machine were made of
hurdles, and one of the wheels had burst : the wheel being
lashed and all made fast with ropes, we were not over-
gratified to find that the horses put to it were rather better
and more spirited than usual, as the chance of safety for
our necks was greatly diminished thereby ; moreover, the
station being off the main road, we had to make a dash
across the country to regain it. Away we went over ditch
and bank, bush and briar, holding our breath and the
bars of the waggon simultaneously ; no springs could
have stood it : they must have been shattered and shivered
at the very first burst. When at last we reached the road,
alas ! there was no rest ; it was like a reversed harrow full
of stones, and after a cruel stage we reached the station of
Bencovatz. From this place, no less than five ruined
castles are visible, crowning the tops of low hills. These
castles belonged to the Hungarian nobility, they must
have been dreary places of residence, as there is not a
tree in the country to intercept the view.
We crossed an open plain to Scardona, on the Kerka

DALMATIA.

25

where half the population of this small town issued forth
to witness our arrival in a tumble-down waggon. We
found refuge in a sort of Gasthaus ; but the people here,
like the Germans, have no idea of providing for chance
passengers after the regular hours of meals, and it was
with difficulty we could obtain any refreshment. We had
evidence that we were coming into a warmer latitude by
the appearance of a large scorpion on the wall of the
apartment. The Praetor of the place, hearing of the
arrival of strangers, sent an obliging message and proffer
of service ; of which we availed ourselves by requesting"
we might be provided with a boat early in the morning
to visit the falls on the river, three miles above the town,
which was immediately complied with ; and in the morning
we found a boat manned by four rowers in blue uniforms
in readiness for us at the landing-place. We were rowed
up a broad stream, between perpendicular cliffs, to the foot
of the falls : the scene is very beautiful, but destitute of
grandeur. The Kerka in its descent is divided into two
principal falls by a bold ragged pinnacle, studded with
bushes and hung with water-creepers : these, again, are
separated into shoots and cascades, foaming over the
impeding rocks, or plunging from the richly wooded
precipices : the caves and rocks, exposed to the water,
are covered with the most delicate stalactites. It would
have delighted the heart of an angler to see the numbers
of large trout that sported in the glassy pools below the
falls, for the capture of which we had neither time nor
tackle. It was on this stream, the ancient Patius, that
stood the town of Arduba, which made so heroic a resist
ance to Germanicus, and when at length it was destroyed
by fire, the women threw themselves into the flames, or
precipitated themselves into the river, to avoid becoming
Roman slaves. The modern town of Knin is built on the
site of this place.
We hired the same boat to take us to Sebenico, at
the mouth of the river ; we floated down through broad
reaches, between high barren white cliffs, and stratified

26 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
rocks, and landed at a quay, at which numerous large
boats were lying. Sebenico is built on the abrupt declivity
of a hill, and descends like steps to the water's edge. It
contains 750 houses, and is the residence of a Roman
Catholic Bishop. Although we had come from inland,
a Custom House myrmidon carried off our chattels to be
searched, against all rule ; but Custom House officers are
the same in all countries, and nowhere more annoying than
in our own dominions.
The Cathedral of Sebenico is the finest in Dalmatia :
it is built of marble : the walls of the interior are delicately
chiselled, and the building, as well as the portico, is sup
ported by elegant spiral columns. This edifice was begun
in 1443, and finished in 1555. The town has an antique
look ; a great many of the doorways of the houses are
supported by pilasters, surmounted with coats of arms in
the Venetian style. At the summit of the hill is the
cemetery ; an extraordinary place of sepulture, consisting
of a series of vaults built in tiers above ground. The
occupied vaults are closed, the new ones are left open
at the end to allow of the introduction of the coffin ; they
are afterwards bricked up. There is a chapel attached to
this cemetery, in which the bodies are laid out until they
are placed in the vaults : on .this occasion one was lying
in an open coffin, in a white sheet, and strewed with
flowers. This eminence commands an extensive view of
the environs ; and the small strong fort of St. Nicolo,
constructed by the Venetian engineer Samicheli in 1546,
commands the entrance of the lagoon on which the town
is built.
We found very good accommodation at a kind of inn.
The host was a manufacturer of Maraschino, and I certainly
never tasted this unique liqueur in greater perfection. It
is made from the Prunus Marasca, a species of wild cherry
or sloe peculiar to this country ; at least it is only here that
it is turned to such good account, for I believe it is found
in the adjoining provinces of Turkey. Maraschino sold
in other countries is, of course, spurious, as there is not

DALMATIA. 27
enough produced to supply foreign markets, except to
a very limited extent.
Dalmatia proper is divided into four circles. Zara,
Spalatro, Ragusa, and Cattaro, and subdivided into twenty-
six districts. The population is 340,000, of which 68,000
belong to the Greek Church, 500 are Jews, and the rest
Roman Catholics. The Dalmatians are tall and muscular,
naturally of a fair complexion, but embrowned by climate :
they did not escape the decimation of Europe to gratify
the ambition of Napoleon, a regiment of Dalmatians
having been entirely destroyed in the Russian campaign.
The nature of the country is so rocky that out of 3650
square miles, not more than 520 are capable of cultivation.
The farmer, after paying a tenth to Government, pays
from a sixth to a half of the produce of the soil to the
landlord. Zara, which I did not visit, is a regular fortress. It is
the port and capital of this circle, and lies 38 miles north
west of Sebenico.
We waited on the Conte di Natali, the commissary of
the circle, with our passports. He is a well-informed
aristocratic old gentleman. He spoke French, and was
pleased \vith the opportunity of talking over his campaigns,
and very obligingly furnished us with letters for his friends
at Spalatro. We did not omit to furnish ourselves with a
supply of the nectar of Zara, and having, through the kind
ness of Sig. Vusio, procured a tolerable covered waggon,
we travelled all night across sterile white hills.. The early
morning brought us to the verge of the descent to the
beautiful Campagna di Trau, which spread beneath us,.
covered with vineyards, olive plantations, and fruit trees.
Trau (Tragurium) was first settled by a colony of Sicilian
Greeks. The modern town, situated on a peninsula, is dirty,
with narrow streets ; it is still surrounded by the old Vene
tian wall, with square towers ornamented with sculptures,
among which the Lion of St. Marc stands conspicuous.
The church is an elegant Gothic edifice, completed in 1550.
Such is the mildness of the climate that the date palm

28 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
grows in the open air. The highest latitude in which I
have yet seen this tree thrive is at Almeira, in the south
of Spain ; the latitude of that place, however, is 360 40',
whereas this is 430 38'— a difference of nearly 70; but those
at Almeira are in lofty groves, while here I saw only two
trees of half growth.
South of Trau extends the fertile district of Setti Castelli,
which receives its name from seven castles now in ruins.
These were built by Venetian nobles, who held grants of
their lands from the Senate, on condition of maintaining
these strongholds to check the aggressions of the Turks.
After the barren hills we had left behind, it was delightful
to travel through this beautiful cultivated country, covered
with vines and fruit trees, between hedges of the rich
glossy foliage and scarlet blossoms of the pomegranate.
We stopped at the house of the Praetor in one of the
villages, to taste the wine made on his estate ; it had
much the flavour of, and was scarcely inferior to Madeira.
If the vine were more generally cultivated on this coast,
the superior quality of the wine produced would render
it a valuable article of export : at present the quantity is
too inconsiderable.
Three miles before reaching Spalatro we passed the
ruins of Salona, at the head of the bay of the same name,
into which flows the Hyader. The only remains of this
old Roman town are heaps and ridges of shapeless stones,
covering an extensive plain to the foot of the mountains.
Above, on a rocky eminence, stands the picturesque castle
of Clissa commanding the pass between the mountains
Cabani and Mossor. This formerly important post is now
abandoned. Salona experienced many vicissitudes before its final
destruction. During the wars of Caesar and Pompey, the
latter endeavoured to reduce Salona ; but in the night
the women habited as furies issued forth, and entering their
camp torch in hand, burnt their engines and so terrified
the soldiers of Octavius who conducted it, that he was
compelled to raise the siege; in 535 it was ruined and

DALMATIA.

29

rebuilt by the Goths, and came into the possession of the
Avari in 641, but was eventually destroyed by the Romans.
We entered Spalatro through the gloomy mural vaults
which formerly served for quarters to the Roman Praetorian
guard. The place, which nearly retains its old name
Palatium, is built in and among the ruins of the celebrated
palace of the Emperor Diocletian. This noble retreat,
for which this wise Emperor sacrificed the purple and its
perils, was an extensive walled fortress, including within
its precincts several temples, baths, theatres, dwellings for
his numerous retinue, and accommodation for his guards.
The town was first peopled by fugitives from Salona, and
has since been greatly enlarged. The walls of the ancient
palace now contain what is called the old city, besides
which there is the new town and the suburbs. The fortifi
cations of Spalatro, constructed by the Venetians, were
destroyed by Marmont, who considered the place un
tenable. The Commissary of the Circle, from whom we
experienced great attention, very obligingly sent his son
to show us the various objects of antiquity of this in
teresting place. We first passed through an avenue, or
piazza, between two rows of lofty Corinthian columns of
granite, at the end of which is a granite sphynx of immense
size, but little remains to prove what was the superstructure
of these pillars. This fine ruin is defaced by a glaring
inscription recording a visit of the Emperor of Austria.
The Temple of Diana is in the most perfect preservation,
which may be owing to its having been converted into a
church. This edifice is a massive stone-built octagon of
twenty-five feet on each face, and surrounded by a corre
sponding peristyle on Corinthian pillars of granite. -The
interior is supported by eight granite columns, above
which runs a sculptured frieze, representing hunting scenes
and beasts of chase. Over the cornice is another tier of
eight porphyry pillars of smaller dimensions supporting
the dome. This noble relic of antiquity is ill adapted,
both from its size and shape, for its present purpose ; a
most incongruous addition has been made to the building

3° FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
in the shape of a modern belfry : a vain attempt being made
to effect a concord between them by constructing this
belfry of columns and fragments from the ruins of Salona ;
it possesses some elegance, but is totally out of keeping
with the stern grandeur of the ancient edifice. Nearly
opposite to this stands a smaller temple of Esculapius,
now converted into a chapel of St. John. It is a simple
oblong marble building, the interior walls of which are
beautifully carved in fretwork. Could the old Romans
stand again within the precincts of their forsaken temples,
how little difference would they discover between the idols
and ceremonies of the modern Romans and those of their
superseded mythology, and well might they doubt if these
are the successors of the men who suffered martyrdom for
protesting against their own idolatry. There was formerly
a portico of fifty Doric columns, forming an entrance to
Spalatro on the sea-side ; this no longer exists.
The main road from here lies along the sea-coast, but as
this road is subject to fevers from the malaria at this season
of the year, we took the advice of our kind friends here, and
struck into the inland road to Sign. Returning by Salona,
we wound up a steep ascent to Clissa ; the road was crowded
with the peasantry : on the little plain at the foot of the
castle, where we rested, a large party had collected who were
amusing themselves with various games : among others,
an unfortunate cock was fastened to a peg in the ground
and pelted with stones, each thrower paying a trifle to its
owner. This was a source of great amusement to the
crowd, as the cock did his best by dodging to avoid the
missiles : the unsuccessful gamblers were saluted with
shouts of laughter and ridicule as they drew forth their
reluctant coppers. The view of Spalatro and the coast from
this elevation is remarkably fine. Sign, which we reached
at night, was crowded with people, a fair having been held
there the previous day, and we found great difficulty in
obtaining a lodging. The streets were still encumbered
with the remains of booths and the scaffoldings of games
and fireworks. About six miles east of this place there

DALMATIA.

31

is a guarded station on the frontier, where a market is held
for the exchange and sale of commodities by the Dalmatian
and Turkish traders, under military superintendence. It
is difficult to believe that such an extended and intricate
frontier can be maintained inviolate for quarantine purposes.
The greatest safeguard of the government is in the mutual
animosity of the borderers of the frontier.
August 16. — From Sign the road passes through a fine
country of hill and dale : there is a ferry at Trigl, and the
view of the valley of the Cettina River from the hills on
the opposite bank is very lovely, with the noble mountain
peak of Biakovo in the background rising to a height
of 5500 feet. A few miles from this, at Duare, the Cettina
forms a waterfall of 100 feet.
At Catuni, a mere post-station, the postmaster had
horses, but could furnish nothing on wheels, nor were
any to be obtained south of this. Here then was to begin
our journey on horseback. I confess it was with more
of pleasure than regret that I heard this, and I was not
sorry to abandon the rasping carts of the country for
the easier though slower conveyance on horseback, even
with the long ride to the farther confines of India in
perspective. The saddles we had provided ourselves with
at Trieste were unpacked and our baggage packed on the
back of an extra horse; and with a feeling of joyful in
dependence, we mounted and set off at 5 o'clock A.M. on
our onward path. The road lies for a long way between
two peculiar parallel rocky ridges, like the roofs of houses,
with a scanty vegetation of stunted oak and ash. The
villages of the Morlacchi are scarcely to be distinguished
from the barren crags among which they nestle. At Zupa,
where we dined on fowls, etc., procured from the peasants,
the huts were thatched, but the village had an appearance
of great misery. Vergoratz is a wretched village among
a heap of rocks ; we were, however, kindly accommodated
in the house of the Syndic. The road from here overlooks
an extensive flat in the Turkish territory, with mountains
at a -distance in the East: it passes by the lake Jesero,

32 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
a sheet of water of about five square miles in extent, and
of a most desolate appearance. It is studded with rocky
islands, and bordered by white and barren shores. The
heat in the middle of the day is very intense, and drove
us to shelter in an oasis of trees, under which the Mor-
lacchi had constructed their huts, elevated on scaffolds to
avoid the vermin. We descended to the delta of the
marshy river Narenta at Vidua, the ancient Narona,
little honoured as the birthplace of Nero ; on the borders
of this village are the remains of ancient walls. Our road
was intercepted by an arm of the river, which the horses
swam across, and we passed in an old boat. A short
ride through fields of Indian corn brought us to Metco-
vich, but here it was necessary to cross the main stream
of the Narenta, which we did in the boat of a trading
vessel lying in the river. The extensive alluvial district
formed by the mouths of this stream is very fertile,
abounding in grain, fruit, wild fowl, and fish. The
marshes, however, generate intermittent fevers, which at
the present season are especially prevalent. The un-
healthiness of the towns and villages is much increased
by the dirty habits of the people and the wretched houses
they inhabit.
August r8. — Metcovich is a small town on the Turkish
frontier : it carries on a tolerable trade, and is a great
mart for salt, which is taken from hence to the interior of
Turkey. The river Narenta is navigable for small vessels.
The postmaster, who was also a merchant, gave us a kind
welcome to an indifferent house, though several of the
family were suffering from fever, and the people generally
had a sickly pallid appearance.
In the olden time, the district between the Narenta and
the Cettina, including the large islands of Brazza, Lesina,
Curzola, Meleda, etc., formed an independent piratical
Republic, of such importance, that until 997 a.d. they
exacted tribute from the Venetians ; the intricacies of
the islands affording a secure shelter to their numerous
galleys : they themselves eventually fell under the dominion

DALMATIA.

33

of Venice. Wc procured some good mules for the march
to Ragusa, but found it was necessary that we should be
accompanied by a sanitary officer, to pass a small portion
of the Turkish territory, which reaches to the sea between
this and Ragusa. It appears that during the power of
Venice, the Ragusan Republic was jealous of the vicinity
of such dangerous neighbours ; the Ragusans therefore,
by the treaty of Passerowich, ceded a portion of their
territory, both on the north and south of their dominions,
to the Turks, under whose protection they acknowledged
themselves to be ; the Turks retain this to the present
day. The road at first skirted the marshes, which were in
tersected by sluggish streams, literally black with fish, of
which trout were the most numerous : some of these were
of great size and were exposing their spotted backs to the
sun while basking near the surface of the water. The
stagnant pools swarmed with frogs, filling the air with
their discordant rattle. We ascended the hills and passed
the Turkish ground, seeing only half a dozen miserable-
looking peasants. We were much annoyed by our mule
teers, whose cattle had been hired to take us to Slano.
They detained us at every village, for what purpose we
could not divine ; but at the small village of Topola, the
muleteers having quarrelled with the people, we discovered
the cause of their conduct by the assistance of the parish
priest, who came to our aid. It seems the price these men
were to receive was much higher than the Government
tariff, and their object had been to impress cattle from
the villagers at the Government rate, pretending we were
Austrian officers, when they speculated on securing the
difference of the hire and returning home. Their intended
fraud cost them a deduction from their pay, besides a
lecture from the priest. The Government rate of hire
is very low, but as the priest, who spoke Italian, kindly
interpreted our wishes to the people, in a very few minutes
we had as many cattle as we wished, at the same rate we
had previously paid. As the men were willing" to travel

34 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
by night, we went on after sunset, though pressed by the
priest to remain with him till morning. As the night fell,
it was extremely cold, and so dark that we had great
difficulty in finding the road. At midnight we rested on
the hills above Slano and could see the lights of the town
twinkling below ; we had brought some water with us, and
lit a fire here for the purpose of warming ourselves and
making some coffee, but just as we had created a cheerful
blaze, I stumbled over the coffee pot containing the last
of our supply of water, and saw it soaked up by the arid
soil. The severity of this trifling loss can only be under
stood by those who have been placed in similar circum
stances. The remainder of this night was passed in that
most painful of all struggles, to keep the eyes open in de
spite of overpowering sleep, whilst momentarily in danger
of falling from the saddle. On the morning of the 20th, we
were descending through gardens and vineyards, wooded
with chestnut, weeping willow, and cedar, to the village of
Porto Malfi.
Opposite Slano, which we passed in the night, lies the
island of Meleda or Melita, which contends with Malta
for the honour of having received the Apostle Paul after
his shipwreck. There are good reasons for fixing on this
locality, however it may militate against received opinions
and offend the prejudices of the Maltese. It is not easy to
understand how Malta could be designated as a "barbarous
island " so late as the time of the Apostles, when history
shows that it had arrived at a high degree of civilization
under the Carthaginians, even prior to the rise of the
Roman power. Here is the testimony of Diodorus to its
flourishing state in his time, "The inhabitants of Malta
are very happy in their circumstances, for they have all
sorts of artificers for every kind of work; but they excel
most in their, manufacture of linen, which is beyond any
thing of the kind, both in the fineness of its texture and in
its softness. Their houses are very noble, being elegantly
ornamented with pediments projecting forwards, and with
the most exquisite stucco work." Again, the "barbarous

DALMATIA.

35

Melita" is in the Adriatic, while the civilized Malta is in
the Mediterranean, though it has been attempted to apply
the name of "Adria" to the Ionian Sea. The island of
Melita was probably thickly wooded, for the adjacent
island of Curzola bore the name of Corcyra nigra, from its
thick forests, and such rank vegetation would be more
likely to harbour serpents than the barren rocks of Malta.
Although the fever of the father of Publius is only a
circumstance, it is certainly a coincidence that this coast
of Dalmatia is at the present day so subject to fevers that
in many places they are scarcely free from them through
out the year.
An inlet of the sea has to be crossed in a boat from
Porto Malfi to Gravosa, and as the traveller's horses are
left at the former place, there is a walk of two miles more
to Ragusa : on this occasion by a hot dusty road. The
old fortress is surrounded by walls, and still presents
a formidable appearance : within, the streets are narrow
and dirty, but the gateways and buildings have an air
of great antiquity. Just outside the fort a gloomy grove
of spreading plane-trees shelters a promenade but little
frequented. The town is such as one would imagine to
have existed in England in the time of King John. The
people were very courteous and obliging.
Ragusa was founded in 656, by the fugitives from the
Roman colony of Epidaurus (Ragusa vecchia), which was
destroyed by the Servians and Saracens. The republic,
like that of Venice, was aristocratic. The Council of State
was composed of nobles above the age of 18. The Senate
of forty-five Pregati, who were not eligible under 40
years of age, and an executive Council consisting" of seven
members. The Senate submitted their proceedings for
the approval of the Council of State and the chief of the
republic was styled the Rector. He was elected annually
until the time of the rector Damian Juda, who attempted
to possess himself of unlimited authority, 1216, after which
they were chosen monthly.
Inveterate enemies of the Turks, their gates were always

36 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
open to welcome their adversaries. Richard Cceur de Lion
was received by the Ragusans with great hospitality on
his return from the Crusades; and they gave refuge to
Sigismund of Hungary after the battle of Nicopolis.
When, however, in 1420, the rest of Dalmatia came
under the dominion of Venice, they were reduced to
the alternative of placing their country under the pro
tection of their ancient foe the Turk, to whom they
paid a tribute, 'which 200 years after had increased to
12,500 ducats yearly. They remained under the pro
tection of the Porte at the treaty of Passarowitz, but the
tribute had long been discontinued. Before the Republic
was dissolved by a decree of Napoleon, it possessed 360
decked vessels and 4000 seamen. In 18 14 it was in
corporated with the Austrian dominions.
Along the summits of the hills above Ragusa are
numerous ruins amid plantations of fruit-trees. These
the people still sorrowfully pointed out to us as the
scorched shells of their former delightful retreats, which
have never been restored since their destruction by the
ruthless fire of war.
At the peace of Presburg, in 1 806, the French garrisoned
Ragusa under pretence of expelling the Russians from
Cattaro. These latter incited the Montenegrins and the
other barbarous mountaineers, by the prospect of plunder,
to descend on Ragusa, which they did to the number of
12,000, pillaging and burning all the places on their track,
including Ragusa Vecchia, Breno, Gravosa, and destroying
the suburbs and country houses of this place before they
were repulsed. From hence to Ragusa Vecchia the country
is mountainous, the road overlooking a sea sprinkled with
numerous islands. A stunted small-leaved myrtle is very
abundant among the rocks.
Ragusa Vecchia, where we only stopped for a change of
horses, is a small clean walled trading town on the site
of Epidaurus. At Pridcovic we took a sanitary officer to
pass the second portion of the ceded territory, which
caused us some detention, and we reached Castel Nuovo

DALMATIA.

37

at midnight and gained admission to a lodging. This was
formerly a strong fort commanding the entrance of the
Bocche di Cattaro. It is still held by an Austrian garrison,
although the massive walls and towers with which it is
surrounded are rent and torn, and in many places fallen,
from the attempts of the Montenegrins to blow them up.
August 22. — The rain, which had continued all night,
terminated in the morning with a thunderstorm, accom
panied by a phenomenon I had never before witnessed.
I was standing at a window, overlooking the mouth of the
inlet, when I saw a large meteor or ball of fire shoot in
from seaward : its course was horizontal, about forty feet
from the surface of the water : when it reached the entrance
of the bay opposite to where I stood, it exploded like
a shell, with a report equal to that of a small field piece.
The weather suddenly cleared after this, and the military
commandant of the place, hearing of our intention to
proceed to Cattaro, sent a very obliging message with the
offer of seats in his boat, in which he was going himself,
and of which we gladly availed ourselves.
The Bocche di Cattaro are a chain of inlets or lakes
winding far inland, and affording a succession of the most
beautiful views. The entrance is commanded by the now
ruined fort of Castel Nuovo, and the wooded hills on either
shore are studded with country houses and gardens, with
villages along the margin of the water. Further in, the hills
swell into mountains, and on entering the innermost lake
the scenery is truly sublime : the mountains which literally
wall in this stilly expanse, in which they are minutely
reflected, spring abruptly in white and barren magnificence
to a height of 2000 feet, and it was strange -to see the
colossal cliffs of the Montenegro basking in the broad glare
of the declining sun, while the western shore, and even
the spot over which our boat was gliding, were wrapped
in the shadows of evening.
The town of Cattaro, lying on the declivity of a hill
at the farthest extremity of the inmost lake, has a pleasing
and striking appearance from the water. About 400 feet

38 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
above it is the Fort of San Giovanni, connected with the
town by zigzag walls down the face of the rocks ; and
the mountain wall seems to impend over the whole. The
town from its land-locked situation is deprived of several
hours of sunshine daily. The costumes of the villagers
of the Bocche are very picturesque and differ in each
village. Cattaro appears to be a busy and populous
place. The Montenegrins are known by their long
white coats, girdled with the usual supply of arms ; some
of the women wear an extraordinary helmet of small
silver coins overlying each other like fish scales.

39

CHAPTER III.
Montenegro.
The territory of Montenegro begins at the very gates of
Cattaro. There is a market outside, to which the moun
taineers bring their poultry, eggs, game, and fruit to supply
the town. A strong Austrian guard is kept here as well
as at the gates. The Montenegrins are only allowed to
enter the town in very limited numbers, and are com
pelled to leave their guns at the gate, the greatest fear
of their wild and independent neighbours existing in the
minds of all classes.
Our curiosity was strongly excited by the accounts we
heard of this singular people, and we resolved not only
to visit their country, but if possible to penetrate by that
route into Turkey ; the more especially as we were assured
that no Englishman had ever been there before us. It was
not easy to overrule the kind scruples of friends, but we
found a more serious obstacle to overcome in the opposition
of the authorities ; the Austrian Government being ex
tremely jealous of strangers holding any communication
with these people. We called on the Capitano del Circolo
(a sort of military prefect) and found him a very gentle
manly man, but on requesting his advice and assistance
with respect to our intended route, he cut us short at
once by informing us that he could not possibly allow us
to enter the Montenegro, but at the same time offered us
every facility in prosecuting our journey to Turkey by the
ordinary southern road along the coast by Budua. When,
however, we produced our passports, countersigned at the
Austrian Embassy in London, and pointed out to him that

4° FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
we were free to pass by any route we pleased, he discovered
that he had no authority to detain us by force. He then
endeavoured to alarm our fears, representing that the Mon
tenegrins were a barbarous banditti ; that they scrupled at
no crime, and were amenable to no laws, and in short that
our lives were not worth an hour's purchase among them ;
" but allowing," said he, " that you should escape a miserable
fate at their hands, how would you be able to pass from
thence into Turkey, while they are at the present moment
engaged in a sanguinary war with the Turks of. Albania ? "
We could not but thank him for his friendly advice, but in
proportion to the difficulties and dangers to be encountered
was our desire to make the attempt increased, and we
determined to proceed at all risks. The information of this
official was probably derived from the military who had
been employed against the mountaineers; for it is only
a very short time since, that the Austrian Government
made a foolish attempt to subdue them, which ended in
their own defeat and their being driven back with loss
and disgrace. The Austrians were consequently disposed
to paint their enemies in the blackest colours. His state
ment as to the difficulty of entering Turkey from Mon
tenegro rested on better grounds, for reports had already
reached us of a skirmish having taken place on the borders
of the two countries, in which lives had been lost and
villages plundered.
In order to ascertain the sort of reception we were likely
to meet with, we despatched a letter to the Chief of Mon
tenegro by one of the mountaineers, stating who and what
we were, and our wish to visit the country, and requesting
that he would send us one of his people as a guide. The
next day we had the gratification of receiving an obliging
answer from the Chief, who sent down a party of six of his
people with three mules to carry us up the mountains, as
none of the animals from the plains can travel their rock
paths. August 25. — Early in the morning we mounted two of
the mules, with our baggage on the third, and set off in the

MONTENEGRO.

4'

best of spirits. The cragsmen marched on foot, armed with
long guns, pistols, and yataghans ; they wear a red cap
with a handkerchief or cloth twisted round it, full trovvsers
to below the knee, and a white cloth pelisse or frock em
broidered in front with silk and confined by a belt ; the men
are strongly made, and the leader of the party, who was
sixty years old, marched in front of us, climbing the steep
ascent with the ease and elasticity of a wild goat, amusing
us as he went along with stories of his exploits against the
French and Austrians, in not the choicest Italian, although
quite intelligible. We had early experience of one bad
trait in the character of the people in their treatment of
their women. Our baggage being considered too heavy
for the spare mule, part of it was made into a load and
consigned to the wife of one of the guides who had joined
the party. This woman, marched for twelve hours under the
burden, seldom on level ground, and apparently without
fatigue, while the men only carried their arms. The ascent
of the mountain is steep and perilous, but the mules appeared
to have studied the road ; they crept and climbed up the
precipitous track most admirably, placing their feet with
the greatest precision in the hollows and ledges worn in
the rock by those who had gone before them. We had no
bridles, and it was only from witnessing the sagacity of the
animals that we felt any assurance of the safety of our necks,
as they took us safely over crags and along precipices where
there did not seem to be footing for a chamois. At length
we reached a comparative level and travelled through tracts
of enormous white rocks, rent, upheaved, and scattered about
in chaotic confusion ; then we would plunge into dark
primeval forests of beech trees, to emerge on similar rocky
tracts, alternating with beech forests. From the highest
ridges we had an extensive view of the lake of Scutari, and
the Albanian mountains stretching far away to the south-east
— a glorious prospect. Late in the afternoon we descended
into a small fertile basin like an extinct crater, surrounded
by rocky hills, which we were informed was the end of our
journey.

I

•42 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
This place, for it is not a town, nor is it even a village,
goes by the name of Cettigne, or Zettigny. The only
buildings in it are the convent of St. Basilius, an ill-looking
range of buildings of two stories with a sort of belfry ; at
a little distance and at right angles to this is the Chief's
house, an oblong building of two stories, another similar
one, and a stable, with a few huts scattered at a distance
about the little valley, is all that forms the capital of
Montenegro. The first object which arrested our sight
sufficiently confirmed the truth of their hostilities with
the Turks. On a low round tower on the summit of a
rock was ranged a horrid array of forty-five human heads
stuck on lances and blackening in the sun. This revolting
exhibition stands a few hundred yards above the monas
tery, and was rather calculated to damp our spirit of
enterprise. We waited on the Chief, who received and
welcomed us with great urbanity. He is a remarkably
handsome man of very prepossessing manners, is well
informed and speaks French fluently ; he is about five-
and-twenty years of age and stands seven feet high. He
wore a furred pelisse and light turban. His name is Pietro
Petrovich, but he is generally known by his title of Vladika
which he bears as a Bishop of the Greek Church, and on
state occasions he wears the dress of his ecclesiastical
rank. We retired to a homely, though comfortable room, and
enjoyed a good dinner, supplied by the Prince's Italian cook,
and assisted by some very good wine. In the course of the
evening we were waited on by the Vladika's Secretary, an
intelligent Italian, who came deputed to ascertain that we
wanted for nothing, and from him we learnt the facts of
the late tragedy. He informed us that the Albanians had
violated the frontier of Montenegro and harried some of
their villages, and to avenge this foray, about ten days
previously, a party had been sent down to make reprisals
across the border. The Turks appeared to have been pre
pared for this, for they made a determined resistance ; but
the Montenegrins eventually gained a victory, although

o55

MONTENEGRO. 43
with the loss of thirteen of their party, and, after gleaning
a bloody harvest of heads, returned in triumph to their
mountains. August 26. — -This morning we found the Vladika in
his library, which was not very extensive, containing a
small assortment of French and Italian books. Our con
versation turned chiefly on the subject of European politics,
in which he appeared principally interested, for, in con
sequence of the jealousy of the Austrians, he is almost
isolated as to information, and is not allowed to receive
a letter or newspaper through the Austrian post office,
and can consequently obtain intelligence but seldom and
circuitously. He ridiculed the fears of the authorities and
people of Cattaro for our safety, and indignantly com
plained of the calumnious accusations propagated against
him by the Austrian Government, and which he had no
means of contradicting, as all except chance channels of
communication were closed against him. Latterly, on
account of a dispute about their frontier, the Austrians
had commenced hostilities by sending some troops into
the mountains, but they had not penetrated far before
they were opposed and driven back with loss. After
alluding to his enemies having published an account of
this affair as a victory, he exhibited with an air of great
satisfaction a quantity of Austrian uniforms and accoutre
ments taken from them on the occasion, as the best answer
to their boasting. " It is not to be supposed," said the
Prince, " that my people would be a match for disciplined
troops on equal ground ; but what chance have these
against mountaineers among their own inaccessible crags,
where every rock hides a foe, and where, while the soldiers
are fully occupied in surmounting the natural obstacles to
their progress, their ranks are thinned by invisible but
sure marksmen. And allowing that they ever reached
more practicable ground, they would derive little satis
faction from the burning of a few straw cabins, which
would be reconstructed on their retreat, while their absent
owners would be far beyond their reach."

44 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
The Vladika has more of the temporal prince than of
the spiritual guide in his composition, and possesses am
bition and intelligence sufficient to have made a remarkable
figure in other and less settled times, when mailed pre
lates marched to the field at the head of their retainers.
He has, however, imbibed some ideas from the spirit of
the age, and with the aid of his secretary he is endeavour
ing to improve the condition of his people, by causing their
children to be instructed in schools and encouraging their
industry. The Montenegrins are Greek Christians, but the
Vladika adduced it as an evidence of their increasing en
lightenment, that his people gave themselves little concern
for the duties of their religion. As Bishop, his own prin
ciples are quite as lax, for, talking of the aggressions of
his border enemies and the exploits of his own people, he
remarked with the greatest naivete, " Nous autres : nous
aimons la vengeance." He looked on the Albanians as
his especial enemies, and longed for the day when he could
pay a visit to the Pacha of Scutari with 10,000 of his
highlanders at his back.
We ventured to call his attention to the ghastly ex
hibition of heads on the tower, as incompatible with our
notions of warfare. He acknowledged that it was a revolt
ing sight, and said he was obliged to allow it, against his
own wishes, to comply with the barbarous custom of
the people, for fear of alienating the affections of his
warriors. The territory of Montenegro comprises an extent
of 300 Italian square miles, with a population of 30,000.
They are entirely independent, although the Vladika
admitted that he received assistance in money from Russia,
the Czar being, as he said, his only friend. Such education
as he possesses was acquired during a residence in St.
Petersburgh, from whence he came to assume the govern
ment of his own country in 1834. The Montenegrins'
cultivate every fertile spot that the country affords ; such
lands are of limited extent, lying in the valleys, along the
borders of the streams, and on the banks of the lake of
Scutari, a large part of which is within their territory;

MONTENEGRO. 45
but they are all soldiers, and ready for any expedition at
an hour's notice. They are a hardy race, and in endurance
the women are not much inferior to the men : they are
inured to hard work, and it is considered among them a
sufficient ground to divorce a wife if she is not at her usual
occupation twenty-four hours after her confinement Their
funerals are after the Oriental style, accompanied with
howling and scratching their faces ; but this is followed
by feasting and drinking.
In the afternoon the mountaineers assembled in front
of the house and practised leaping, wrestling, and firing
at a mark. The target was a small stick planted on the
roof of the house. Our old ally, who escorted us from
Cattaro, proved himself to be the best shot, severing the
twig with his match-lock after three attempts. We after
wards rode with the Chief to the extent of the little plain of
Cettigne. He was mounted on a handsome grey charger,
a present from the Pacha of Bosnia, and showed himself a
good horseman. His stud consists of four horses, which, with
the mules that brought us up, are the only animals in the
country. On our return, we walked with him by moonlight
until a late hour, while his retainers were lounging about,
or keeping a careless, and certainly an unnecessary watch.
After all the dangers we had been threatened with, it was
a satisfaction to find ourselves on such good terms with
this redoubted chief and in perfect security surrounded by
his wild clansmen. As we proposed leaving in the morn
ing, we enquired of the Vladika whether our crossing the
Turkish frontier would be attended with much difficulty
since their late collision. He acknowledged- it could not
be done without danger, but said that his people should
escort us to the frontier and if possible procure us a boat
to go on to Scutari. He regretted we could not make
a longer stay, but gave orders for mules to be in readiness
in the morning and a boat to be waiting on the river which
flows into the lake, and we took leave of him after an ex
tremely interesting visit.
August 27. — At sunrise we left the little amphitheatre

46 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
of Cettigne and took the road down the opposite face of
the mountains, towards the valley of the Velika Rieca
river. We were again obliged to submit to the painful
necessity of seeing our baggage carried by women : the
feeling of being parties to this degradation was perhaps
aggravated in this instance, by one of our carriers being
a handsome black-eyed girl. Our remonstrances, however,
were only received with unmixed astonishment by the
sufferers, and with indifference or ridicule by their masters,
although some of the men who had frequented the
towns of Dalmatia evinced some symptoms of shame
that strangers should witness this unnatural drudgery.
The women seemed grateful for our good intentions, but
assured us they did not suffer the least fatigue. But
while we criticize what we call the barbarous customs
of foreign nations, let us look at home and see if there
is nothing to blush for. Passing through the streets of
London or any other English town in the early morning in
our climate, I have been moved with shame and indig
nation on seeing a number of English girls, many of them
delicate and gently nurtured, kneeling on their hands and
knees in the cold and wet, scouring stone steps. O the pity
of it ! It cannot be said that they do not suffer, for their
health does suffer in many ways from the exposure, and this
drudgery has actually generated a new disease, called " the
house-maid's knee." But apart from the sanitary aspect, it
is a national reproach that women in England should be
subject to such degradation, while we complacently criticize
their treatment in foreign countries.1
The descent of the mountains, although not so abrupt
as on the Dalmatian side, is very precipitous : in many
places the only, track is over slabs and blocks of stone
as polished as ivory ; we escaped with no injury beyond
a few falls. On the lower levels, we traversed several
valleys cultivated with grain, and passed some villages,
1 After this lapse of time, I find that, although much has been done to
alleviate the suffering of our women in mines and factories, this humiliating
drudgery is still in practice.

MONTENEGRO. 47
or rather homesteads of two or three houses, surrounded
by vines and fruit trees. On this descent I was surprised
to hear the familiar call of the bee-eater, and on looking
up saw a flight of these lovely birds passing high over
head. After a descent of seven hours we reached the
bank of the river near a considerable village: at this
point the river emerges from the mountains and suddenly
expands to a broad stream. Here we found a very
crank boat with a high pointed stem and stern, in
which we embarked with a party of six Montenegrins,
two of whom were chiefs, and the other four acted as
rowers. All were well armed, with rifle, dirk, and pistol,
and, with the addition of our own double-barrels, we
formed an efficient force in case of a meeting with the
Albanians, and felt confident of giving them a warm re
ception if driven to extremities. In the mean time we
commenced hostilities against the water fowl, with which
the stream and banks abounded : we shot wild ducks,
grebe, and several species of heron. The stream flowed
down, between hills, in broad reaches, bordered by
marsh and rush ; as we reached the enemy's country we
had to exercise more caution and resist the temptation
of sport. Towards evening the shores gradually receded
and we entered the extensive lake of Scutari.
We saw nothing to alarm our suspicions, except one
large boat which crossed our track at a distance in front ;
we passed several rocky islands, and rowed on in silence
till ten o'clock at night, when the men ran the boat into
a small creek on the Western shore of the lake, within the
Albanian .territory, where two or three little skiffs were
lying concealed. We all landed cautiously on the rocks,
and after a short consultation, and seeing their arms in
good order, four of the party climbed up the rugged hill in
a very mysterious and contraband style, and were soon lost
in the darkness ; the other two remained with us to await
their return. It was a fine warm night, and nothing broke
the silence but the rippling of the tideless water as the
wavelets dashed against the rocky margin, and, notwith-

48 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
standing the precarious nature of our situation on a hostile
frontier, we quietly went to sleep on the bare slabs until
the return of our emissaries after an hour's absence ; they
brought with them two mild-looking Albanian Christians,
but whether they came by compulsion or were old smuggling
acquaintances of the mountaineers we did not ascertain.
The boat we had come in was far from seaworthy, but we
were soon to learn how much worse we might fare when
the new comers began baling out one of the rotten skiffs we
had found lying here, and we were told that in it we were
to complete the rest of the passage. On examination it
did not appear to have been used for years : the planks
were black and rotten, and the widened seams had filled
with earth, which bore a flourishing crop of green grass.
There was no choice, as the gallant fellows who had faith
fully performed their trust in bringing us across the frontier
had to return in their own boat We therefore consigned
ourselves to the care of the strangers. The moon had by
this time risen, and lying down side by side in the bottom
of the skiff we pushed off from the land. One of the
men rowed with a single oar while the other steered ;
our course was consequently a festoon or a succession of
half-circles. A slight swell set on shore, and the tossing
of the lake waves threatened to melt the frail bark to
pieces, but as we gained the open lake the water became
more smooth.
We were startled from a sound sleep about one in the
morning by a concussion, and found the boat alongside of
a low marshy islet, teeming with mephitic exhalations,
and discovered that we had been lying in water, of which
the boat was half full. We were obliged to land our
baggage on the sand, and bale out the boat before we
could proceed. The same operation had to be performed
five or six times in the course of this comfortless night,
and it was daylight before we entered the river
Boyana, which issues out of the south end of the lake.
On this river there is a very curious fishing village
elevated above the surface of the water in mid-stream.

MONTENEGRO. , 49
The houses are of wood, built on piles sunk in the bed of
the river ; each house is furnished with a large quadrangular
net at the end of a long pole, which is suspended to the
roof of the building inside, and used as a lever to raise
and lower the net.1 Fish is extremely abundant, but it has
the reputation of causing fever.
1 It was some years after this was written that I fell upon the following-
passage of Herodotus, and the existence of this village proves the accuracy of
the historian's information, as well as the unchangeable nature of local customs.
— " The dwellers on the Frasian lake beyond Peonia live in dwellings of the
following construction : — In this lake, strong piles are driven into the ground,
over which planks are thrown, connected by a narrow bridge with the shore.
Upon these planks each man has his hut, from every one of which a trap door
opens to the water. The fish is in such abundance that if any one lets down a
basket into the water and steps aside, he may presently after draw it up full of
fish." — Herodotus, Terps. xvi. xvii., Beloe.

50

CHAPTER IV.
Albania.
On the morning of the 28th we landed stiff and cramped
on the shore at Scutari in Albania, but unmolested and
unquestioned and thankful for our safety. We were
obligingly directed by some Italian traders, who were
busy among their bales, to a house of entertainment
kept by an Italian woman. The accommodation is
not very good, but the people are obliging. Scodra,
as the Turks call this place, is built on the bank of the
river which issues from the lake, and at the foot of a
steep hill, on the summit of which is a Venetian fortress.
In this the Pacha resides with a garrison of 5000 Nizam.
The bazaars of the town are spacious and extensive, but
the principal inhabitants and shopkeepers live with their
families in the numerous houses of the suburbs, where
each house is surrounded by trees and a high mud wall,
and affords the seclusion which is the first requisite of a
Turkish dwelling. The transition from Christian Europe
to countries under the pressure of Mohammedan rule is
very striking : one becomes conscious of being surrounded
by moral stagnation and physical decay. Absolute power
renders the security of property precarious, and destroys
the energies of the people. Fatalism — the most powerful
auxiliary of a conquering race — is a chief cause of its
decay by the apathy it engenders. The national spirit of
the Turks is nearly extinct, and their towns and public
buildings, never being repaired, exhibit everywhere ruins
and desolation.
A principal article of trade at this place is the medicinal
leech, which is a Government monopoly, and sold by auction

ALBANIA.

51

to the highest bidder. The leeches abound in all the
streams and waters, and are collected by men who wade
in the water and disturb the mud and stones, when the
leeches fasten on their legs and are bottled for export.
29. — The intelligence of the removal of Hassan Pacha,
the present Governor of Scutari, by the young Sultan
had just arrived. The Pachalik had been sold to Achmed
Pacha, who already held the extensive province of
Roumelia. We experienced the effects of the expected
change by the little attention paid by the Menzil
Bashi to the teskerai of a declining Pacha. He declared
he had no horses, but found us others from private
parties at four times the regulation price. Under the
circumstances it was useless to appeal, and we put up
with the imposition, which could only be for a stage.
When we thought we were fairly started, our baggage
horse rolled over his load in one of the principal bazaars,
to our disgust and the amusement of the people ; but at
length we got on our road after crossing an arm of the
river by a long bridge built on a most unique principle,
but a most dangerous one for horses, the roadway forming
a sharp angle above each arch. We traversed the fertile
valley of the Drino and arrived in the evening at Alessio ;
this town is smaller than Scutari, but is also commanded by
a castle. We found here poor accommodation, and, as a
substitute for a lamp, a handful of pine knots were ignited
on an iron tripod, throwing a ruddy glare on the group of
turbaned Albanians who sat round us as we ate. The com
mandant of the Nizam, (of which there are 1000 quartered
here,) in a dirty blue jacket and trousers, came to examine
our teskerai, but was obliged to take it away to a Moolah.
to have it read to him. He spoke some Arabic, having
been in Syria ; this is rare among Turks, although it is the
language of their Faith. From this place to Tirana is a
rich country : the lowlands are covered with crops of rice,
and graze herds of buffaloes. The baffalo cream (kaimak)
is used in thick cakes, as an accompaniment to fruit or
honey : it is very luscious and similar to our Devonshire

52 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
cream. The woods are overrun by the wild grape vine:
some of the trees are borne down by their massive foliage :
the higher trees are hung with luxuriant festoons, which
interlace and conquer bough after bough with their in
sidious coils. We also traversed an extensive and lofty
beech forest before coming to the town.
August jo. — Tirana is a straggling town in a pretty
country, hilly and undulating. The mosque is very elegant,
and covered with arabesque fresco painting. The Pacha,
Abderahman Bey, received us very hospitably and lodged
us in his own house. He wears the new regulation frock-
coat, etc., which is required of all who hold official situa
tions under the Sultan. Shortly afterwards the Pacha's
brother came in from hawking. He retains his national
Arnaout costume, and being a handsome man he looks what
an Albanian chief should be, and casts his .brother in his
hybrid dress completely into the shade. We asked to
see his game, which, though not very noble, he displayed
with the satisfaction of a sportsman. They were chiefly
turtle doves, and golden oriole, and some specimens of
the blue thrush (Turdus cyanus), a rare bird, seemingly
peculiar to the shores of the Adriatic ; it is common in
Italy, living among rocks and ruins ; its colour is a greyish
blue, speckled with white. In Dalmatia it is kept in cages
for its fine song. In the evening we dined with the Pacha
and a party of his friends in a large octagonal Kiosk hung
with glass chandeliers. The 30 courses of which our
banquet consisted were not too many, where the etiquette
only allowed of a mere taste being taken of each dish,
for scarcely was the third morsel touched when the dishes
were pounced on by the attendants and replaced by others.
After the repast the Osmanlis indulged freely in spirits
and wine ; even champagne was produced, which they
drank in saucers. Each of us was then presented Avith
a silver-gilt puzzle ring of four hoops ingeniously inter
laced. Music, dancing by boys, and smoking finished the
evening, and we slept in our clothes in the same room.
Sept. r. — Al Bassan, the next town we reached, lies

ALBANIA.

53

in a district abounding in olive plantations. We found
lodgings at a Greek's house, and slept in the verandah.
We were away again at five in the morning through
a picturesque mountainous country, passing Kukusa, lying
under a steep craggy ridge ; after resting for two hours,
we travelled all night and reached Struga, at the northern
extremity of the Lake of Ochrida, early in the morning.
This is a very fine expanse of water, but without beauty
of scenery, the shores being low. It was a lovely morning
and the lake was swarming with wild fowl. As we rode
along the shore Ave met a cavalcade of some hundreds
of Turkish horsemen, Avho Avere escorting the new Pacha
of Scutari, or rather the Deputy Pacha, to his government.
Among them was a four-wheeled carriage, Avhich they
certainly could not use beyond the shores of the lake by
the road we had come.
We merely stopped at Ochrida to change horses. It
appears to be an extensive town : the most commanding
object is a hill on Avhich is a fortress now in ruins. A
very unhealthy plan has been adopted in Turkey of build
ing their towns in hollows and at the foot of hills : it is
done for the purpose of having the advantage of the
running Avater from the hills and high grounds, but as
no proper channels are provided for carrying it off, the
Avater traverses all the streets, and, mixing Avith the filth
of the toAvn, is converted into streams of liquid mud;
this in hot Aveather is very offensive and causes fevers
and other diseases. Posting in this country is extremely
moderate ; the rate is one piastre per hour for each horse :
the hour is a conventional term for four miles, Avhich is
the usual distance a horse can walk in that time. The
piastre is the fifth part of a shilling. In the plains you
may gallop at the rate of tAvelve miles an hour : in the
mountains it is difficult to march more than four; the
payment for every four miles does not, however, vary :
relays of horses are found at every eight or ten miles.
I found the deep Turkish saddle the most convenient for
this sort of travelling, adopting the Tartar plan of placing

54 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
on it a thick sheep skin Avith the avooI outside, secured by
a surcingle. Every traveller, if alone, must take three
horses; one for himself, one for his baggage, and one for
a Surogee, who takes them back to the post they came
from ; as we were two, our four horses cost but twopence
halfpenny a mile. In mountainous countries like Albania
the pace is a Avalk, but on plains these horses have a long
running amble, Avhich is very easy and swift. We had
already discovered hoAv little dependence is to be placed
on the information obtained, before entering a country,
with respect to the dangers to be encountered in it: in
Dalmatia Ave were told that it Avas impossible to penetrate
the Montenegro, and that Ave could not travel in Albania
without a strong escort, whereas we had traversed Albania,
Avithout apprehension, Avith only a Surogee. The Albanians,
Montenegrins, and Morlaccos appear to be members of
the same race : the language of each is a dialect of
Slavonic. From Ochrida to Monastir the road crosses
the high mountain range Avhich separates Albania from
Macedonia : the heights command a fine and extensive
prospect of the lake and tOAvn : before crossing the highest
ridge there is a smaller lake at Resna of no beauty. This
night, which we passed in a Khan, was a real "night in
the East." In the same room Avere horses, foAvls, goats,
and shoals of fleas ; these kept up an incessant kicking,
grunting, crowing, and biting, added to Avhich the goats
climbed over our bodies Avith their sharp hoofs as Ave lay,
until, half frantic, Ave rushed out in the middle of the night,
and, ordering our horses, galloped on to Monastir, Avhich
we entered before daylight, and threaded our way through
the silent streets to a new Khan, surrounded by painted
trellis, like a bird cage. It Avas necessary to obtain a fresh
order for post horses from the Pacha of Roumelia, Avho
resides there. His Pachalic includes Macedonia and
Roumelia proper, to which he has noAV added Scutari,
so that his power extends from Constantinople to the
Adriatic. He is too poAverful for a subject under a
government so essentially Aveak as the Turkish. In the

ALBANIA. 55
course of the day Ave Avaited on this great man, Achmed
Pacha, a fine-looking man, but Avith a very severe ex
pression of countenance. He Avas seated Avith his secretary
and a number of Turkish officials, but received us with
the greatest courtesy, and gave the requisite orders for our
teskerai. There are no more courteous or affable men
to be met with than the Turkish Pachas; they may be
wanting in sincerity, but men Avhose lives are passed in
intriguing for poAver are not more likely to cultivate this
quality in Turkey than in England, Avhile their habitual
affability of manner, even if originally adopted as a diplo
matic engine, is highly beneficial and gratifying to strangers
Avho may be brought in contact Avith them. I should
mention that Ave found an Italian here to act as interpreter.
These solitary adventurers are always to be met Avith in the
tOAvns in Turkey : they are either agents of the merchants
residing at the sea-ports, or persons seeking employment,
but they are always ready to offer their services in this
manner, partly to make acquaintance Avith the authorities
and to hear the neAvs, but chiefly from an obliging dis
position, ever ready to perform an act of kindness to a
stranger. The Pacha was very particular in his enquiries
about the Montenegrins, towards whom he did not appear
disposed to be very friendly. As they Avould noAV border
on his frontier, we strongly advised him to keep on peaceful
terms with our late friends, assuring him that he A\~ould
gain nothing by hostilities against them. Monastir, Avhich
is also called Betulia, probably a corruption of Beit Allah,
is a large populous toAvn, but very dirty, in consequence
of the Avater from the hills forming black filthy streams
through the streets. We made a rapid march of 80 miles
from this place to Koprili on the Vardar. A ridge of hills
is crossed about half Avay, on which I saAV the Cyclamen
in blossom. We also met a Cafila of camels, the first
of these animals Ave had met Avith in Europe. From
Koprili to Komanova the road traverses a fine fertile
country on the banks of the Vardar: fields of tobacco
and cotton extend in all directions, and numerous buffalo

56" FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
carts lumber along loaded Avith their produce. At Stretzin,
to avoid the fleas Avhich infest the Khans, Ave this night
slung the hammocks Ave had furnished ourselves with, and
slept unmolested after a ride of 57 miles. The road con
tinues up the same fine valley to the source of the Egrider£,
a tributary of the Vardar. The Avater-ouzel is numerous
on all these mountain streams. It feeds on leeches and
aquatic insects, and becomes extremely fat and heavy.
This extraordinary little bird does not dive, but Avalks into
the Avater: it feeds among the stones at the bottom, and
reappears perfectly dry on the rocks higher up the stream,
from whence it again enters the water, under which it
appears to walk with the same facility as on dry land.
When shot at or wounded, it disappears and lies hid
among the stones at the bottom or under the banks.
After crossing the spur of the Balkan at Simakov, Ave lost
sight of them altogether.
We came to the source of the Vardar by a fine valley,
the dark range of Caratova, in Avhich there are silver mines,
rising on our right. Before arriving at Guistendil, an
incident occurred Avith a Tartar, Avhich was some relief
to the monotony of the road, and in the end proved of
service to us. The Tartar, a government post courier,
travels night and day : the instant he arrives at a menzil,
the three best horses in the stud are furnished him, for
himself, his valise, and a Suregee, and they do not spare
their horses, especially Avhen nearing a menzil, which they
enter at full speed. During the latter part of this stage
our Surogee had shoAvn great laziness, and although our
horses Avere good, nothing could induce him to quicken
his pace or work them, until Avithin six or eight miles of
the toAvn, Avhen a Tartar, Avhom Ave had met the day before
on his Avay to Uskup, Avas seen coming up behind us on
his return. This Avas an opportunity for Avorking on our
Surogee's feeling for the reputation of his cattle. We
taunted him Avith comparisons betAveen the different paces
of the horses, disparaging the merits of our OAvn, until he
Avas fairly roused. The effect Avas complete when the Tartar

ALBANIA.

57

dashed past us Avith a contemptuous smile of recognition.
The man was transformed : it Avas the difference betAveen
the sleepy apathetic greyhound, and the same animal
straining on the leash, Avith the game afoot. Scarcely had
his rival passed Avhen shout upon shout rung from his lips,
and our horses Avere off at the top of their speed close at
his heels. The Tartar, divining our intention, determined
not to be outdone in the race, and quickened the pace of
his lightly encumbered horses by the vigorous application
of his long AA'hip. Our Surogee, now all energy, cheered on
his horses by shout and Avhip, and Ave scudded over the
plains Avith the Tartar just ahead, all galloping like men
demented. It Avas Avonderful how our baggage-horse kept
his load at the racing pace he Avas going, urged on in addi
tion by our Avhips, and by the clattering of a bag of pans
and kettles, Avhich hung loose on the top of his burden :
sometimes Ave gained ground on the chase, which Ave again
lost in plunging through a Avater-course, dashing through
a pond or galloping up an ascent, Avhere his light cattle
had the advantage ; however, Ave kept him close in view,
and soon arrived in the streets of the long ill-paved
straggling town of Guistendil, through Avhich meandered
streams of muddy Avater, Avhere Ave astonished the peace
able inhabitants Avith the sight of two Avild Englishmen, Avith
bag and baggage, spurring away in hot pursuit of a Tartar.
Away Ave all Avent through the town at racing pace, the
mud flying in all directions ; the horses' hoofs rattling over
the stones; the men shouting; the pots and kettles jingling
in unison : the people scattering before our headlong course,
and the long-bearded Turks sitting in their shops, ceasing
to smoke from amazement. Noav and then-^we caught
sight of the Tartar turning a corner, and galloped aAvay
Avith reneAved energy, dashing round the corners to the
great peril of the Osmanlis, and danger of our own necks,
and Ave did not draw rein till Ave brought up in the court
of the Menzil Khaneh, Avhere the Tartar had arrived a
minute before us, having had barely time to dismount.
Whilst other horses Avere being prepared, the Tartar sipped

58 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
his coffee and smoked his pipe Avith an air of quiet
satisfaction at having foiled us. We found him a very
good sort of man, and Ave agreed to continue our road
in company to Simakov. Independent of the amusement
of "catching a Tartar," this adventure was eventually of
great use to us, by facilitating our procuring horses ; for,
seeing the manner of our arrival, the people concluded we
Avere couriers Avith despatches, and this report being carried
from stage to stage by the Surogees, Avho believed it them
selves, our horses Avere ahvays in readiness at a moment's
notice, and we had no difficulty in travelling as fast as
we wished. We slept this night at Dubniza, having ridden
about seventy-five miles. A traveller has no difficulty
whatever in procuring meals on the road at all the Khans,
though his fare is limited to about tAvo dishes. If he can
wait, a pillaf of rice and foAvls is the standard dish : if he
is in haste, half a dozen eggs are broken into a frying-pan
of melted butter, which is then stirred up, and the mess
is ready in five minutes. The people of the Menzils are
obliging and never extortionate.
September 8. — The next morning's ride brought us to the
large tOAvn of Simakov, in Bulgaria. It is built in a holloAV
and lies on the north of the peak of Rila. The town was
filthy Avith mud, and it appeared to be a market-day,
for every street was crowded Avith buffalo-carts and ox-
waggons, through which, and the croAvds of people, Ave
had some difficulty in making our way. The Bulgarians
are Christians. The general dress of the peasantry is a
jacket and trousers of coarse broAvn drugget and a small
black sheepskin cap, and they have more the appearance
of Russians than subjects of the Porte.
The activity prevailing here in the crOAvded streets and
open places is striking, after the quietude of most of the
Turkish towns we passed through. We resumed, however,
our rapid march with fresh horses, crossed the Balkan to
the west of the Porta Trajani, and after a ride of fifty
miles, the greater part of the road being mountainous,
Ave reached Gabra Khan at night. Here we joined the

ALBANIA. 59
high road from Vienna and Belgrade to Constantinople.
We found excellent accommodation in a good house kept
by a Bulgarian Christian, and it Avas sufficiently cold to
make us enjoy a blazing fire, around Avhich his family were
collected. I met Avith an incident or accident here, Avhich
Avell-nigh stopped my galloping for some time. We
had alighted in a land of plenty. Our host Avas Kanji,
butcher and storekeeper for the village, and on making our
Avants known, a large trap-door in the floor of the room
Avas raised and various stores produced from the sub
terranean recess to compose our supper. The room Avas
only lighted by the fire, and, forgetful of the trap-door, I
Avas Avalking across the room Avhilst the cooking Avas going
on, Avhen I was suddenly precipitated doAvn this domestic
pitfall, falling among the kegs and jars at the bottom of the
hole. The family rescued me from the vault, and appeared
really concerned at the accident. I had fortunately escaped
Avith broken knees and a few contusions, and it did not
prevent our resuming our journey in the morning. One of
my knees was much sAvollen, but by riding on one stirrup
and letting the damaged leg hang loose, I was able to
keep on, though at a sloAver pace. We passed Bazarjic
on the Maritza, and slept at Philipopolis on the same river.
The plains are covered Avith rice cultivation, and abound
in snipe — and intermittent fevers. The peasants are all
furnished with a large Avooden ladle at the end of a long
handle, for the purpose of bathing their buffaloes to protect
them from the heat. Our day's journey was fifty-two
miles. I need not stop to describe this beaten and well-
knoAvn high road, and will pass over it quicker than our
horses traversed it, which was at a sufficiently rapid rate.
September ro. — From Philipopolis we made a rapid
march of no miles, travelling all day and all night — by
Kialek and Hirmanli — to Heibelu, where Ave slept for two
hours ; next day forty-eight miles to Kafsa, through Adria-
nople, Avhich is a handsome tOAvn, Avith broad streets and
bazaars, and elegant domed mosques with graceful minarets.
From Adrianople to the Capital the charge for post-horses

60 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
is doubled. The next day Ave galloped to Silivri, on the
shore of the Sea of Marmora. It is called 112 miles, but
cannot be less than 120, and Ave must have travelled at
the rate of eight miles an hour. These barren doAvns (for
the cultivation is chiefly confined to the valleys, Avhich
can command a supply of Avater from streams) are remark
able for the immense numbers of birds of prey Avhich
frequent them. The peregrine falcon, the moor buzzard,
common buzzard, the kite, the kestrel, sparroAV-haAvk, and
several other species of hawk, Avith Avhich I Avas not
familiar, besides eagles and vultures. The reason of this
concourse of rapacious birds may be that this is the season
for the arrival of the flights of quails, with which every
table in Constantinople is furnished while the passage
lasts, and I saAV a quail hunted by a pair of hawks and
struck within twenty yards of us. HaAvks themselves are
also on passage at this season.
We did not reach Silivri until midnight, having been
detained by the fall of our baggage-horse, which had
attained too great a velocity in galloping doAvn a steep
slope in the dark at Papasli, and rolled over his load.
Silivri Avas the first place at which we experienced
incivility. The people of the Menzil positively refused
to give us lodging room or sell us food, an instance of
inhospitality which I will do the Turks the justice to say
was an exception to their usual obliging manner towards
strangers. Neither coaxing nor threats made any im
pression on the brutal post-master. The only thing he
Avould do Avas to give us fresh horses to go on Avith ; Ave
were, however, scarcely prepared to mount again after
so long a ride. It was too late to seek other lodgings
or obtain redress, so Ave were fain to spread our carpets in
the verandah, and with our baggage under our heads Ave
Avent supperless to sleep, and this after a ride of 120 miles !
September ij. — The inhospitable villains had the assur
ance to ask for backsheesh in the morning when Ave started,
and it was noAV our turn to retaliate by refusal. Refreshed
by sleep, if not by food, we made twenty-four miles to

ALBANIA. 6 1
Buyuk Tchekmedje, before stopping to allay our hunger.
Before reaching Kutchuk Tchekmedje it began raining,
and just as Ave quickened our pace and galloped over the
bridge to reach a place of shelter, Ave Avere detained by
a most gratuitous piece of annoyance, established by the
government at this place by Avay of a sanitary precaution.
By the side of the road stood a large sentry box, into Avhich
my companion and myself Avere introduced in our Avet
clothes, to undergo fumigation from a handful of sulphur
throAvn on a brazier of charcoal, and Avere only liberated
Avhen half suffocated. It Avill hardly be credited that this
useless and vexatious infliction is only applied to foreign
travellers, Avhilst their baggage, Avhich might convey in
fection, did any exist passes untouched, and the people
of the country pass in and out unmolested. Our Surogee
Avaited in the road Avhilst Ave underAvent this suffocating pro
cess, and Ave then made the best of our Avay to the Capital.
From Silivri to Constantinople the distance is about
fifty miles. The approach to the city by land is not
striking: it is like the back of a picture. The old walls
of Byzantium, through the ruins of which the tOAvn is
entered, are still an interesting object, overgrown with
bushes and verdant parasites. The Avails are high and
massive, supported at intervals by square toAvers. An
hour Avas passed in threading the croAvded bazaars and
intricate streets of StambouL Avhen AA-e crossed the elegant
bridge over the Golden Horn and reached Roboli's Hotel
at Pera, well pleased at the prospect of a few days of rest
and abundance, after the discomfort of our late hard fare
and rough riding. In the last four days alone we had
ridden 320 miles on every variety of cattle, rough_trotters,
gallopers, amblers, and some lame ; and in nine days 630
miles, averaging seventy a day. It must be remembered
that in these countries there is no such thing as a road,
but merely a track leading over hill and valley, across
hedge and ditch, mountain and river, taking the most direct
course from village to village irrespective of obstacles.

62

CHAPTER V.
CONSTANTINOPLE.
September r^. — I place Constantinople in a separate
chapter, that those Avho have seen it, or may be satiated
with the numerous descriptions of the place already pub
lished, may be able to skip over it Avith the greater facility.
I have said that the land approach is like the back of a
picture, and a glorious picture it certainly is. from the Avater.
It is Avhen skimming the straits in a caique that its super
lative beauty arrests the entranced gaze. It has no
grandeur ; other lands have grander features : it has no
sublimity; but I can imagine no scenery combining so
many elements of loveliness as that forming the channel
of the Bosphorus : it is beautiful ! most beautiful ! ! The
length of the channel from the Black Sea to the Sea of
Marmora is about twenty-five miles : on either side of the
water it is an ever-changing panorama of the most lovely
vieAVS : the richly Avooded hills and valleys slope down to
the margin of the Avater, Avhere noble palaces reflect their
fantastically shaped facades in the dark mirror. Kiosks
and spires spring from the trees : villages and houses hang
on the declivities of the hills ; and at the southern termi
nation of the channel, reposing on the bosom of the deep,
rises dome above dome in regal magnificence — the noble
pile of the Seraglio Point, shooting its Avhite airy and
elegantly chiselled minarets into the sky, mixing Avith the
black cones of the funereal cypress, Avhich relieve the
lighter features of the scene by their dark masses and
shadoAvs. The water is a scene of life and bustle : Avinged
ships and boats flitting up and down the channel, others

CONSTANTINOPLE. 63
lying at anchor in the stream, Avhilst here and there tower
the tall sides and masts of a ship of Avar. Ascending the
"Golden Horn," we threaded our way through shoals of
arrow-like caiques, plying across between Pera and Stam-
boul : on either side rises, pile on pile, Avhite houses, domes,
and minarets : this inner " Golden Horn " harbour termi
nates in the little river Lycus, called the SAveet Waters :
rowing up this, and following the throng, Ave landed at
a beautiful spot, shaded by fine trees and sheltered by
hills. On the bank of the stream stands one of the
Sultan's palaces, highly adorned with gilding and stucco :
the valley is a favourite resort of idlers, and a gay as
semblage of Turkish fashionables were scattered over the
greensAvard. There Avas no Avant of ladies here, and, in
fact, they appeared quite as numerous as the men. The
Turkish females are far from being deprived of their
liberty to the extent that Ave suppose, though it is true
that of late years they have enjoyed much more than
before the time of the present Sultan. In public they
Avear veils over the lower part of the face and throat ; but
as they have a predilection for transparent muslin, it is
merely a pretence of concealment. They ride in gilded
Arabas, a conveyance much resembling the old-fashioned
coaches formerly used in England : these are drawn by
handsome Avhite oxen, gaily ornamented Avith tassels,
fringes, and coloured streamers, and have a very picturesque
appearance. The scene at this spot Avas altogether very
animated and interesting. The sedate Osmanlis, seated
on their carpets under the trees, smoking, talking, or
.dozing: the Avomen in their Arabas, or in groups on the
grass, chattering as women always will Avhen they- get
together : children rolling about and gambolling on the
turf : sweetmeat-sellers and water-carriers distributing their
refreshments ; musicians, tumblers, and story-tellers collect
ing their circles and amusing the idlers : Avith numberless
caiques arriving and returning Avith their pleasure-seeking
parties ; Avhilst dashing cavaliers and groups of picketed
horses in gaudy housings gave a finish to the scene. There

64 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
is a place of resort similar to this on the Asian shore of
the Bosphorus; but being less retired than this, and lying
on the Strait, it is not so much frequented.
Among the most beautiful objects in Constantinople
are its gateways and fountains. The latter are extremely
elegant: they are circular or octagonal buildings, Avith
broad projecting eaves, richly ornamented with carved
Avood-Avork, stucco and gilding, and surmounted by a
domed roof. The coloured lithographic draAvings of these
buildings Avhich have been published are very correct and
the style appropriate, and they will probably retain the
memorial of these beautiful objects long after the originals
— like everything Turkish — have fallen to ruin, to which
they are fast approaching.
For a description of the mosques and buildings, I refer
the reader to the guide-books. I merely mention the
royal tombs domed and gilt at the Mosque of Ayoub, to
eulogise the charitable disposition of the Turks in provid
ing on all occasions that essential of Avarm climates, Avater,
for the thirsty passenger. These buildings, in common
with other sanctuaries, are faced with Avindows of iron
grating, on the sills of which stand a row of large metal
cups, continually replenished Avith Avater for the refresh
ment of the passers-by.
The Sultan has fine efficient . steamers, but since his
accession the arsenal has been in a state of inactivity.
It is a great advantage to the Porte, in point of economy,
to be the Aveakest state in Europe, as her stronger neigh
bours and allies take the entire care and expense of her
protection on themselves. It Avould be a humbling con
sideration to the Turks if they could feel that they only
OAve their existence in Europe to the mutual jealousy of
the Christian poAvers.
On the mud of the Golden Horn lies the Avreck of a
small steamer, of Avhich, and of the self-taught engineer
Avho constructed it, Ave heard the folloAving extraordinary
history. It seems that this vessel and her engines Avere
constructed by an Armenian, Avith no assistance or

CONSTANTINOPLE. 65
instruction, except what he had derived from books on
engineering. After ten years of labour and a great ex
penditure of money, he exultingly imagined that his
perseverance and skill had overcome every obstacle to
his success. The day of his triumph Avas come, when the
work of his hands was at length launched on the Golden
Horn : the vessel Avas rather inclined to one side, but this
could be rectified by stOAvage. The steam was got up
and she ploughed her Avay through the yielding waters : so
far his success Avas brilliant ; but, alas ! the very complete
ness of his present success tended but the more to embitter
the eventual destruction of his long-cherished hopes, when
he discovered to his dismay that he had provided no
means of checking or stopping the machinery : on, on it
flew Avith desperate pertinacity, like the Dutchman's leg,
and after various eccentric evolutions, the baffled engineer
ran her aground in despair. The poor man took his failure
so much to heart that he forsook his business and even
tually Avent out of his mind — a martyr to science.
The houses of Constantinople, being constructed chiefly
of Avood, fires are frequent and watchmen are constantly
stationed in commanding positions to give timely Avarning
of their appearance. About six-Aveeks ago a great part of
Pera Avas burnt doAvn — 700 or 800 houses being destroyed.
The people are noAV living in huts among the scorched
ruins of their houses, Avhich covered the summit of the hill,
and are daily occupied digging out their buried property.
We had nearly been Avitnesses of one of these conflagra
tions, the alarm having been given one evening. On
reaching a situation affording a view of the town, we
could see the flames near the shore of the Bosphorus, and
ascertained that they proceeded from one of the Sultan's
palaces, which, being isolated, the fire was quickly ex
tinguished. It is certainly an alarming consideration for
its inhabitants, that, from being built of such inflammable
materials, a single act of negligence or malice may at any
moment lay their city in ashes.
The streets of Pera are narroAv, dirty, and precipitous,

66 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
the shops mean in appearance, and their contents ill
assorted : the houses have large projecting windoAvs and
balconies in the Spanish style. The people Avho inhabit
this quarter are a heterogeneous mixture of the Avorst of
all nations. Among them the Armenians hold the most
respectable position ; they are less mixed and a fine-look
ing race : both men and Avomen are handsome. The men
are quiet and industrious; they monopolize the greater
part of the interior trade, and compete with the Jews
in banking and brokerage: they Avear long black and
indigo blue robes, and a strange tall black cap swelling
out into a round bulb at the top. It is a curious fact that
the Armenian Patriarch of Constantinople, a Christian
prelate, is installed in his office by the Mohammedan
Sultan. Below Pera is the quarter of Galata, extending doAvn
to the shore of the Golden Horn : the foreign merchants
have their offices and stores in this quarter: the streets
are wider than those in Pera, but steep: landing places
crowded with boats of every description line the shore.
At the upper part of the hill stands the tower of Ana-
stasius. It was from the top of this that the panorama
of the city, exhibited in London, Avas taken.
Crossing the bridge to the opposite side, Ave wandered
through a labyrinth of bazaars. These are arched over,
airy and clean : the shops are hung Avith shaAvls, pelisses,
brocades, muslins, and embroidery. The embroidery, I
was told, is the Avork of the ladies in the harems, and many
of them are articles of Avearing apparel, which they send
to the shops to raise money on their OAvn account : as
ladles in England dispose of their jewels for the same
purpose! The confectioners' shops have a very pretty
appearance from the varied colour and form of the
different SAveetmeats tastefully arranged under glass cases.
They are, hoAvever, more pleasing to the eye than gratify
ing to the taste, composed of sugar, scented Avith otto
of rose and other strong essences. The saddlers' bazaar
was our object, where Ave purchased saddles, bridles, saddle

CONSTANTINOPLE. 67
bags, tartar boots, and a few other articles necessary for
our omvard journey. Emerging from the shade of the
bazaars', Ave rode on tOAvards the Hippodrome, passing
the monument knoAvn as the burnt Pillar. It rises through
the roof of a house, Avhich appears to have been con
structed around it. It is about 100 feet high, is formed
of blocks of granite, and croAvned by a square slab or
coping-stone ; it has no beauty, and is rendered still more
ill-looking by the hoops of metal Avhich encircle it at
intervals, seemingly for the purpose of keeping it together,
as it is rent and split in several places, probably at the
time it was struck by lightning in 1080. This column is
recorded to have been raised by Constantine, as a pedestal
for the Phidian Apollo.
All that remains of the Hippodrome is a mean oblong
space called At Meidan, the greater part of the original
square being noAV occupied by the magnificent mosque
of Bayezid. .At the upper end of the At Meidan stands
a handsome Egyptian obelisk covered with hieroglyphics.
It is raised on a pedestal of marble, representing on
one of its faces in bas-relief the mechanical operation
of elevating the monolith. A remarkable peculiarity in
this monument is, that the shaft does not rest on the
pedestal,1 but on four blocks of rough unheAvn granite,
Avhich support the corners. This gives it a very unfinished
appearance, and Avas probably not an intentional arrange
ment but Avas allowed to continue lest any attempt to
rectify it by removing the stones should have caused the .
destruction and downfall of the pillar.
At a short distance beyond the Obelisk is a spiral brass
pillar, about six feet high : this is all that remains-of the
Tripod of three entwined serpents consecrated at Delphos
after the defeat of Xerxes. Further on, and in a line
Avith this and the Obelisk, rises a lofty square column built
of stone, which, to judge from its present state, does not
promise to remain many years longer an object of curiosity:
1 Cleopatra's Needle at Alexandria, which I have since seen, is similarly
supported on rough stones.

68 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
it is sadly dilapidated, and considerably out of the per
pendicular : it is supposed to have been originally covered
with bronze. It Avas from this Hippodrome that the Chian
horses were removed, to assume the absurd station they
noAV occupy over the portico of the Christian church of
St. Marc at Venice. The large Alpine SAvift frequents the
mosques and towers of the city. I also noticed this bird
in the Tyrol.
We next went in search of the great reservoir (yeri battan)
under the Seraglio Point. After rambling from street to
street and many unsuccessful inquiries, we were at length
directed to an unoccupied house through which admittance
must be gained to the object of our search. Having pro
cured the key of this from an old Turk, who lived on the
opposite side of the street, we passed through the deserted
house into an old orchard, and came to the mouth of an
immense gloomy cavern with a vaulted roof supported
on massive columns, rising from the Avatery floor. The
remains of the capitals of the pillars shoAved them to be
Corinthian, but they are very much injured by time and
damp. It is not easy to understand why this ornamental
style Avas used in a subterranean Avork, unless, which is
likely, at least one side of it was originally open to view.
The present entrance appears to have been formed by
the falling in of the soil near the edge of the roof, and
the legitimate entrance may have been closed .by a similar
accident. The Avater is supplied by springs and percola
tion, and innumerable pumps convey it from this reservoir
to supply the superincumbent houses.1
The aspect of this dark cave, through the gloom of
which the eye can pierce but to a limited extent, is sombre
and mysterious : the columns become less and less distinct,
until they fade and disappear in a veil of impenetrable
1 I find in my MS. notes a notice of a similar subterranean reservoir which
exists in the dismantled Portuguese fort of Mazagan, in the Empire of Morocco.
The roof of this, forming thirty-six arches, is supported by twenty-five plain
stone pillars. This cistern, like that of Constantinople, was probably of Roman
construction, and the locality was taken advantage of by the Portuguese when
establishing their new settlement.

CONSTANTINOPLE.

69

darkness. The effect is heightened by the unearthly
noises with Avhich it abounds, the dripping of Avater
the startling echoes of some distant pump reverberating
in multiplied sounds through the hollow arches, and rous
ing innumerable bats Avhich brush you as they flit by, with
their chilly Avings, and fill the void Avith hissing shrieks as
they again vanish into the obscurity. The old Turk could
give us no information as to the extent of the reservoir,
but told us of a man having gone in a caique to explore
it and Avho had never returned: he also informed us that
a fish Avas found in its waters like an eel Avith legs. As
the Proteus Anguinis is a native of subterranean caverns,
this is a more credible circumstance than the first, unless,
as is possible, the man Avas drowned or suffocated by the
mephitic vapours in some of the recesses of the cavern.
The Cypress Cemeteries form one of the most striking
peculiarities of Constantinople and Scutari, as well as one
of the finest features in its scenery. Wandering through
the gloomy vistas, where the trees meet overhead in
pointed arches like the aisles of a Gothic Cathedral, and
surrounded on all sides by the moss-grown dwellings of
the dead, a reverential feeling steals over the spirit: the
mind is abstracted from earth, in the solemn atmosphere
of these silent shades, and impressions are stamped on it
never to be effaced, but recurring in after-life, like flashes
from a forgotten dream. Taken individually, the almost
black unfading cypress is a sublime object: standing rich
in unearthly grandeur, it presents an emblem of a Christian
dAveller in a Avorld of trial unshackled by its thrall : it
faints not in the summer's heat, nor shrinks under the
winter's cold : it laughs not in the sunbeams, nor wantons
with the passing zephyrs : the clouds may loAver, but
cannot further darken it, and even when the tempest
raging boAvs the sapling to the dust, or rives the gnarled
oak, trusting its sure foundation in the tomb, the tOAvering
cypress, unsubdued, defies the blast; and when the storm
has past, its dark evergreen mantle resumes its sculptured
stillness and its summit still points heavemvard.

70 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
The prisons here are not divided into cells, but the
prisoners are chained to the wall at intervals, in long
corridors : numbers of haggard-looking Avretches lay coiled
up like Avild beasts, or moved about to the extent of their
chains. The stench from these horrible dens Avas quite
intolerable. If Mr. Churchill was confined in such a
prison, he Avell deserved the £3000 indemnity he received
for his three days' imprisonment
The Turkish soldiery, in their neAv regulation dress, are
a most absurd caricature of European troops : they are
generally ill-made short men Avith boAV legs. It is possible
that this malformation has become confirmed in the
Turkish race, from the national habit of sitting cross-
legged from time immemorial. Their dress would seem
to have been supplied by contract without any regard to
size or measure, the Avaistband of the trousers being
usually close under the arms. The rich dress of the
Janissary, or the floAving robe of the Osmanli, helped to
conceal their defects, but in this dress they look ridiculous.
The officers, of course, dress a little better, in a blue frock
coat, full plaited, and a scarlet fez stiffened to resemble
a hat without a brim, with a tassel of blue floss silk
spread over the croAvn and falling behind. Every person
in Government pay or employ is required to wear this
dress ; the exceptions therefore are the priests, some shop
keepers, and the very poor.
The cavalry are rather superior to the infantry : their
horses are small and insignificant in appearance, but if
they possess the stamina of the post-horses, they may
probably do their Avork better than their appearance Avould
promise, especially Avith light riders lightly accoutred.
I Avas surprised to find hoAV scarce fine horses were in
the capital of Turkey, Avhere I had expected to see the
best horses of the Empire collected, as the Avhole southern
frontier of Turkey in Asia borders the Arabian plains.
I apprehend that the breeders find a better market on the
Persian Gulf to supply the Indian demand, and the feAV
that find their Avay to the capital are merely as presents

CONSTANTINOPLE.

71

to Pashas and Governors. These officials keep fat well-
fed animals for state occasions, but it is extremely rare to
meet Avith a good Barb or Arab in Constantinople.
To revert to the reforms of Sultan Mahmoud. When we
consider the importance attached to dress by the Orientals,
either as a badge of rank or a mark of degradation, but
especially as a religious distinction,1 changing the costume
of the Turks for that of the hated unbeliever was a bold
proceeding. It Avas a well-judged measure for the purpose
of breaking doAvn the barrier Avhich had so long estranged
these Asiatics from Christian Europe, and it Avas calculated
to eradicate their prejudices, and thus bring them more
Avithin the influence of the improvement of the age. It
has been adduced as one motive, but it seems a very
questionable one, that the Sultan was desirous to accustom
the Turks to the sight of the European array, that they
might not be daunted when they met Europeans on the
field of battle. To foreigners, whom business or pleasure
brings to the East, the change has been one of great
advantage and relief. An Englishman may now traverse
the bazaars and streets unmolested, where formerly, and
that not many years ago, he was liable to abuse and insult.
Noav, the desecration of the Mosques, by the visits of
Christians to indulge their curiosity, is an event of daily
occurrence ; formerly, It Avould have been effected only at
the peril of life : even the dogs of Stamboul, famed as the
terror and pest of strangers, have become so familiar with
the dress of the Giaour that they noAV seldom bark at or
annoy Europeans,2 and for this we praise the measure : and
for the same reason superficial observers praise the boasted
1 It is a well-known fact that, daring the hostilities between the~SuItan and
Mohammed Ali, many of the Turkish troops deserted to the Egyptian army
merely to escape what they considered the degradation of wearing the Christian
dress. Others, when taken prisoners, stripped off their clothes and trampled
them under foot, offering to submit to anything rather than be compelled to
resume them. Ibrahim Pacha enlisted all these as irregulars. The Egyptian
ruler had the good policy, when he incorporated his regular army, to avoid
shocking national prejudices : he dressed his troops uniformly, but in a modifi
cation of their national costume.
2 In contradistinction to the Turks, who are really Asiatics. —

72 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
civilization of Syria and Egypt by Mohammed Ali, because
they can travel in all safety from Damascus to Tarsus or
from Dan to Beersheba, Avhilst all accounts testify that
the country is ruined and despoiled by his unsparing op
pression. Doubtless, in as far as Ave are concerned, these
things, taken by themselves, are Avorthy of our approval :
we must not, hoAvever, forget how much our judgment is
liable to be Avarped when self-interest is alloAved to narrow
the view. But, when Ave consider the subject in relation
to Turkey, this innovation has gone further than the Sultan
ever calculated upon, and it proved a withering blow to the
stability of his Empire: it struck deeply and effectually
at the root of their religious fanaticism, which is the only
bond of union among the Turks. They have no patriotism;
considering themselves as interlopers in the land they
possess, they only hold together by the bond of a
common faith. The higher classes are mostly at enmity
with each other, their interests constantly clashing in the
negociations for the purchase of pachalics and places
under an intriguing and mercenary government, while the
lower classes are too apathetic and indifferent to be aroused
or acted on by anything short of immediate personal
danger or religious enthusiasm. Formerly the standard
of their prophet was a rallying-point, and the war-cry of
their faith Avas a motive sufficiently powerful to rouse the
latent energies of Mohammedanism, and to unite every
Asiatic and follower of Islam against the unbeliever : but
this feeling no longer exists; what at first they felt as
a degradation, has now become habitual, and they feel that
they are identified with Europeans and Christians. New re
cruits and inhabitants of retired districts visiting the towns
still express their indignation at the sacrilegious change;
but wherever it has extended, it has destroyed the nation
ality of the Turks, and will contribute to their ultimate fall.
Of course other causes have been and are noAV at work;
but when we look on these things as directed by Him who
ruleth in the kingdoms of men, we see how the Aveakest
instruments are made to effect the mightiest purposes.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 73
The politicians of Pera are speculating on the probability
of Avar and commotions before the settlement of affairs in
the East in general, and the quarrel betAveen the Sultan
and the Pacha of Egypt in particular. Whatever may be
the event, no one acquainted Avith their character will
expect the Turks to take more than a passive part in
any projected undertaking, unless compelled to act as
auxiliaries to any of the contending PoAvers.1 Look at
their conduct on former occasions. When the Russians
Avere at Adrianople on the North and at Erzeroum on the
South, the Turks Avere utterly helpless, and their country
might have been swept from the map, had not the Czar
been deterred by dread of the other poAvers of Europe ; and
but yesterday, Avhen they lost their Avhole fleet, their armies
Avere dispersed in Syria, their Sultan died and the Govern
ment fell into the hands of rapacious and intriguing Pachas.
What effect had this on the Turks as a people? They
ejaculated a few additional " Mashallahs," and retreated
deeper into the caverns of fatalism ; but there Avas no spirit
in the nation. Ask them the reason. They answer, " It is
decreed ! " The Turkish empire is gradually breaking up,
and Avill go on declining until it sinks into oblivion, though
the division of the spoil may be attended with European
Avars and commotions. It is Avorthy of note, that the Turks
consider themselves strangers in Europe, and expect to
leave it ; and every Turk who can afford it has his remains
taken over to the Asiatic side and buried at Scutari, in
order that Avhen they are driven out of Europe, their, graves
may not be trampled by the unbelievers. They are a
nomad race; they brought nothing with them but their
arms, their sleeping carpets, and their cooking-pots; -and
so Avill they go as they came, leaving scarcely a memorial
of their sojourn.
There is an English Chapel at Pera, in which service is per
formed by the Chaplain to the Embassy, but the attendance
is extremely small, although so many English merchants
1 This has since been verified on occasion of the expulsion of Mohammed
Ali from Syria by the British.

74 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
reside here. There are also an English and tAVO American
missionaries stationed here, I suppose, for form's sake.
We spent a fortnight most pleasantly at Roboli's, Avhere
the accommodation and fare Avere both good. A constant
succession of English visitors rendered our sojourn interest-
ing and agreeable. Among others, Lord Carnarvon, Lord
Rokeby, Mr. H. LongAvorth, author of "Travels in Cir-
cassia," and usually a party of officers on leave from the
fleet outside the Dardanelles. One day Mr. Waghorn
dined with us, and I was pleased to know the man whose
energy and enterprise originated and established our steam
communication with India by the Isthmus of Suez. It
was, however, time to make preparations for our onward
pilgrimage, the first step to which Avas the purchase of
horses. Post-horses can only be procured on the two
main roads through Asia Minor, the Eastern road to
Bagdad and the Southern road to Syria; but even on
these there is great difficulty in procuring relays, the
horses not being kept in readiness in consequence of the
infrequency of the passage of travellers, who are detained,
sometimes for days, until horses are pressed from the
villagers. Besides this, they will never consent to go a
mile off the high road ; the better plan, therefore, is to
ride your own horses, when you are independent of these
annoyances ' and free to travel in any direction that
curiosity or objects of interest may suggest. The horse
bazaar is a large inclosure, surrounded by stables : the
horse-dealers have all the tricks and cunning peculiar to
their trade, usually accepting a third of their first price.
I thought it the wiser plan to engage the assistance of
one of the most active of these fellows, who was a
Damascus Arab with a very sinister look. A retaining fee
having opened the Shami's eyes to the blemishes and
faults of half the horses in the market, Avhich, without
this timely precaution, he would have pronounced perfectly
sound, I selected three strong horses, for which I paid
^23. The prices vary from £5 to £ 15, high-priced horses,
as before observed, being remarkably scarce.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 75
We engaged the services of a Cyprian Greek, Giorgio
by name, Avho spoke Turkish, Arabic and the hybrid Italian
called Lingua Franca ; he Avas to perform the offices of
interpreter and cook and take care of the horses. We
divested ourselves of all our superfluous baggage, reducing
our wardrobes to the smallest possible list of necessaries,
no more than Avould fill a pair of saddle-bags, to be carried
by the third horse, on Avhich Giorgio was to ride ; and,
furnished Avith a firman of the Sultan Abdel Mejid, we
Avere ready to start, when my companion was laid up
Avith an attack of intermittent fever, Avhich delayed us for
a time. This is the season for fevers on these coasts, and until
my companion could be released from the clutches of the
fever and Dr. Millingen, I amused myself seeing every
thing worth notice in and about Constantinople, but
chiefly visiting the bazaars and studying the people at
their usual occupations. Apart from their fatalism, a
quality derived from their subjugation to the yoke of the
false Prophet, there is much to be admired in the Turkish
character : they have their faults, but possess more virtues
and fewer vices than nations which imagine themselves
more civilized. They are courteous without servility;
urbane and obliging Avithout ostentation : their hospitality
is unbounded, and uninfluenced by interested motives.
I have eArer found them strictly honest, and they seem
to be free from the vice of envy. If you go to the shop
of a Turk, Avhose goods do not suit you in price or
quality, and ask him to direct you to another shop for the
same articles, he will do so immediately Avith the greatest
civility, or will send his servant to conduct -you to his
rival's store, and this Avithout a feeling of annoyance. Their
beneficence is evidenced by the numerous fountains and
Avells constructed on all the roads in Turkey, providing
that invaluable blessing, Avater, in the wilderness, for the
fainting Avayfarer : these are generally the result of private
charity. The Turks are an aristocratic race : their greatest
faults are ovenveening pride, slothfulness and its offspring,

76 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
luxury and apathy. Their cruelty and Avant of respect for
human life are, however, proverbial.
It is an ordinary, though a short-sighted remark, that
no correct judgment can be formed of countries and
nations from a mere cursory visit. This is partially true
with respect to the minor details and internal economy
of society: but the broad characteristics of a. nation are
more salient, and strike a stranger the more vividly from
being novel and unfamiliar, at the same time that they
contrast with foregone impressions of the character of
other nations. There is a prominent physiognomy in
nations as well as in individuals, and a reflecting observer
can rarely be deceived, especially when his first impressions
have been modified and adjusted by the experience of one
or two months' acquaintance.

77

CHAPTER VI.
Asia Minor.
On the 30th Sept., as my friend Avas still on the sick list,
I Avent on an excursion to Mount Olympus. I crossed
over in a ferry boat Avith the horses and Giorgio, and landed
at Scutari, on the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus, ascend
ing through the steep streets, through the magnificent
cypress cemetery which extends for several miles over the
top of the hill. The road is remarkably good, and is the
only one in Turkey on Avhich there is a Avheel conveyance
for the mail, and this only extends to Izmid, at the head
of the Gulf of Nicomedia. I met the post phaeton flying
along at furious speed, drawn by four horses. This, being
the only drivable road, is the fashionable promenade of
an afternoon, and Avas croAvded Avith gilded Arabas full
of ladies.
I slept, or rather endeavoured to sleep, at Kartal, for
the room in Avhich I lay Avas furnished Avith large and
loosely hung sash windoAvs, and the night being stormy
they rattled like thunder, and as soon as it Avas dark the
barking of the troops of dogs that thronged the streets
Avas something unimaginable: sometimes a Avhole pack
SAvept under the windoAvs in full cry : then Avoulda universal
and stunning uproar burst from all parts of the village
at once : then their noise Avould cease simultaneously for half
a minute in the strangest manner, while they seemed to
be listening for something to bark at, when they again
broke out in full and deafening chorus. I lay awake
listening to the din of this dog kennel until the moon
¦ Avas high enough to enlighten the road, Avhen I mounted,

78 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
and, after a chilly night-ride, passed through Gebse just
as the reddening dawn Avas colouring the summits and
revealing the forms of the distant mountains, which still
screened the rising sun. The country is undulating and
fertile, the hills wooded with Arbutus and stunted Ilex.
Across a narrow part of the Gulf of Nicomedia, between
Dilbash and Ersek, I was conveyed in a large ferry
boat with tAvo sails in an hour and a half. The village
of Ersek is situated among marshes, and the people
were nearly all suffering from intermittent fever. As
we rode our own horses, I applied at the post-house
for a surogee to act as a guide, but was met by the
common excuse, "O, Aga, a Pacha hath passed by, and
he hath taken all the horses from the menzil, and, by
Allah, the surogees are gone Avith the horses, and there is
not one left." The usual expedients of persuasion and
menace were exhausted in vain with the menzil aga, and
none of the sickly creatures who surrounded us could
be bribed to take the office of guide. After entering
a formal protest against the menzil aga, on whose head
we" laid the responsibility of alloAving the bearer of the
Sultan's firman to depart without a guide, I turned and
rode out of the village, folloAving a beaten track through
the fields, followed by Giorgio, who, having travelled with
Englishmen on previous occasions, seemed to be instinc
tively convinced that I could find my Avay as well Avithout
a guide as Avith. We travelled merrily on through the
hills, correcting our road by inquiry of passing peasants,
many of whom we met driving clumsy buffalo carts made
of Avicker Avith solid wooden Avheels. In the afternoon I
dismounted at a village called DoAVshana, prettily situated
amid bowering trees and dashing streamlets. Here again
the villagers were just recovering from the visitation of
fever, September being the season of its periodical attacks.
In the room allotted to strangers tAvo patients Avere lying
ill. A young Turk, however, came forward, and Avith Avell-
timed hospitality, offered the accommodation of his house,
which I found neat and clean. My entertainer, Avho called

ASIA MINOR. 79
himself Mustapha, provided for all my wants, and taught
me further to value the practical virtues of his race.
October 2. — The next morning I traversed a lovely
country, studded Avith villages, some surrounded by mul
berry plantations, others embosomed in verdant nooks
and half concealed by the luxuriant foliage of fruit and
forest trees. The road is rugged, crossing hills and
numerous streams. I passed a large party of Armenians,
men, women and children mounted on horseback: the
Avomen carried large green boughs to screen themselves
from the heat of the sun, and the children were stowed away
in panniers, out of Avhich their red-capped heads protruded.
This country produces a great deal of cotton, but its
principal staple is silk. Each village cultivates an extent
of mulberry plantations for feeding silkworms. The trees
are not alloAved to grow at will, but kept pruned Ioav to
force the young shoots Avhich produce the largest leaves.
The Avorms are reared in the houses and each village
produces from 500 lbs. to 600 lbs. of silk annually. The
fat-tailed sheep are also numerous. From the heights
near the village of Cheugler, a fine vieAv is obtained of
the lake of Nicea, Avith villages perched on the low hills
on its banks. Descending into the plain, I rested at
Bazar Kiui, at the Avest end of the lake, on the stream
Avhich flows from it into the Gulf of Moudania. Iznic, on
the ruins of Nicea, is on the eastern shore of the lake.
Bazar Kiui is a pretty little toAvn Avith cafes under over
spreading trees and two elegant Mosques. The surrounding
plain is extremely rich and fertile, producing the finest
grapes and olives I have ever seen ; the grapes are like
large pigeons' eggs, and of delicious flavour.  Some I
measured Avere if inches in length. The fine Smyrna
raisins are made from these grapes, and the walls of the
houses in the villages are festooned with chains of bunches
drying in the sun. I rode on through plantations and
vineyards : the peasants driving in horses and donkeys,
Avith panniers overfloAving with beautiful grapes and piled
Avith blooming olives. I left the plain Avhere the dark

80 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
Avooded peak of Toosladaund rose high on the left and
reached the summit of the hills, commanding a prospect
of the lake, Avith its river Avinding through steep picturesque
cliffs to the Gulf of Moudania, Avhere the town of Kemlek
lay on the beach at the mouth of the river. I stopped
at the small dirty village of Omerbey after ten hours'
riding, and found shelter in a cafe, sending Giorgio with
the horses to a khan, the cafes having no stables.
Climbing a ricketty stair, I reached an upper room,
round which, but distant from the wall, ran a circular
colonnade of wooden pillars ; the space between this and
the Avail was divided into stalls by a railing two feet
high. The roof and woodAvork of this den were blackened
with smoke, and the only light in it was a dim lamp
suspended from the ceiling, and the glow of a dull
charcoal fire, at which the Canji Avas preparing his
black potions. As my eyes became familiarized with
the gloom, I perceived that most of these stalls Avere
occupied by parties of Turks, all Avearing large blue
turbans, the smoke from Avhose pipes contributed to the
density of the atmosphere. I took possession of a vacant
stall, and afforded some amusement to the circle by sus
pending my hammock to the Avooden pillars, and lay
down and contemplated the chiaro-oscuro picture before
me, which I longed for the poAver to commit to canvas,
until I fell asleep.
At the Khans and Cafes in toAvns the traveller is pro
vided Avith nothing but shelter and coffee, and he must
procure and cook his OAvn provisions or send out to the
cooks' shops, which are usually to be found in tOAvns of
any size, and where they prepare roast meat, fried fish,
and kabob. This is a great convenience for a hungry
traveller, who, after a very short Eastern experience, is
not apt to be over-nice in his feeding.
In every village throughout Asia Minor, there is a house
set apart as a traveller's rest, which their name, " Oda
Musaffer," literally means. These odas consist of one or
tAvo rooms on a raised floor with a fire-place and chimney

ASIA MINOR. 8 1
at one end. Here the stranger is provided Avith carpets, food,
fire and bedding, and his horses are fed and sheltered.
The Odas are established on a system of mutual accom
modation, and are supported by the voluntary contributions
of the villagers. They are intended for the use of their
own people trading from village to village, who, of
course, enjoy the accommodation they afford, gratuitously.
A rich Turk may perhaps exercise his generosity in
the bestOAval of a " guerdon " on the Oda-bashi ; but the
Oda is generally vacated for an English traveller, who
they are aAvare Avill pay the value of Avhatever he may
require, as Avell as remunerate them for their trouble
and civility. This institution is of the very essence of
hospitality, and is doubtless a relic of their nomadic origin,
but it affords a very favourable illustration of the Turkish
character. I found in the morning that Mount Olympus
was visible S.W. from Omerbey, and I left the village
just as the rising sun glanced on its summits. This classic
mountain has not the striking aspect I had pictured to my
imagination from its selection as the throne of the Pagan
gods. VieAved from this side, it presents a level ridge,
Avith undulations, but with no distinguishing peak. A
track up the course of a stream brought me to Bashi,
a village on a hill, and in another half hour Brusa lay
before me in a beautiful fertile plain, backed by the
Olympic range, Avhich rose abrupt and massive from the
opposite border of the plain. I passed through the village,
Chabejik, Avhere I saw a long Greek inscription above a
fountain ; the symbol of the Cross betAveen a sun and
moon shoAved this to be a comparatively modern record.
After descending into the plain, the Oulfer river is crossed,
and the road leads through the extensive mulberry plant
ations Avhich surround the town. These are interspersed
Avith other and larger trees and traversed by avenues of
fine chestnut and Avalnut trees. On reaching the town, I
established myself in a Khan. I had a letter for our
Vice-Consul, but was informed that he Avas residing at
a country-house. This was of the less consequence, as
VOL. I. 6

82 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
Consular hospitality does not rank very high in the
Levant My room, at first, promised some degree of
comfort, but on further examination I found the walls
overspread with black clusters of the genus Cimex: the
walls were literally covered with these insects in patches
of from ten to tAventy, all ready to descend at nightfall and
unite their attacks against the unfortunate tenant of the
room. I shuddered at the thought of Avhat I had escaped,
and immediately slung my hammock, taking the precaution
of oiling the hooks to Avhich it Avas suspended, by which
means I avoided the night attack of this sanguinary host.
I was thus also out of reach of the sAvarms of rats which
took possession of the room throughout the night
Brusa is one of the chief towns of Asia Minor, and was
ahvays a place of importance. It was the residence of
Pliny, the Prefect of Bythinia, and in later times was the
seat of the first six Sultans of the race of Osman, who
also lie buried here. It possesses spacious arched bazaars
and large Mosques. The surrounding country is very
beautiful and productive, and besides the silk produced on
the spot, Brusa is a dep6t for all the silk of the adjacent
districts, part of which is manufactured into a variety of
ornamental fabrics, and the rest exported.
October 4. — I had engaged a guide to ascend the Olympus,
a dashing fellow in a large blue turban and a jacket em
broidered with gold lace, Avho professed to knoAV the
names of every place Avithin a hundred miles, and we were
on horseback at an early hour : the ascent began close
behind the tOAvn, where the scenery is very romantic.
Bursting through a craggy barrier, a mountain torrent
rushes doAvn a precipitous ravine through luxuriant under
wood, and overshadowed by magnificent chestnut trees.
It passes under an ancient bridge, and traversing the town
discharges its waters into the Oulfer ; the path Avas steep and
abrupt, and extremely trying for horses. The mountain
side is finely wooded, and the different plateaux Ave reached
commanded extensive vieAvs, and I Avas much gratified at
meeting with an old acquaintance, the Medlar tree groAving

ASIA MINOR. 83
Avild. The guide had led me to expect that we should
find some ruins on the summit, but on reaching a broad
plateau, Avhere a great number of rounded black stones
Avere scattered about, I discovered that it was to these
boulders he had alluded ; these stones were some of
them of great size, some resting on the tops of others,
but had nothing artificial about them, nor was there any
appearance of ruined buildings in the vicinity. I have
been informed that a monastery did exist on the mountain,
the present name of Avhich is Tsheshish Dagh, the sacred
mountain, a Avord derived from the Syriac Kashish
"holy." The name most probably originated in the Pagan
sanctity of the spot, but to the present day a festival is
held on this mountain for several days in August which
is said to be in honour of a Greek Saint, Iyuritico, but
Greeks, Turks and Armenians indiscriminately join in the
fete, Avhich consists of eating, drinking and music. It is
remarkable to find Mohammedans joining in these festivities
Avith Christians, for which they can adduce no reason, but
that it is an ancient custom. It certainly throAvs a doubt
on the assertion that this is a Christian festival, and would
seem to point to a remoter period for its origin.
At a short distance to our right a bare peak rises from
this plateau : patches of brown snow lay in the ravines
which furroAved Its sides, and Avhich Avere protected from
the sun's heat The guide conducted me by a path to the
left, to reach a point on the northern face of the range,
from Avhence the finest view is obtained. It Avas hard
work climbing the rugged paths, leading the horses through
the dark pine forests, the drooping boughs of which swept
their saddles. Wherever we came on a flat piece of ground,
it Avas torn up in all directions by Avild hogs. At length,
about four hours after leaving the town, I reached the
summit, and to a most favourable spot my conductor had
brought me. It Avas one of the highest spurs of the
mountain, and seemed to project over the lower wooded
peaks, whilst it fell aAvay on either side in precipitous
curtains of rich foliage to the ravines beloAV. The view

84 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
from this point is glorious and imposing! The country,
from the base of Olympus to the visible horizon, appearing
like a panoramic map. Brusa, Avith its castle and mosques,
and its innumerable domed roofs, lies at my feet in the
midst of an unbroken field of verdure ; escaping from this,
the tortuous Oulfer v/inds through a plain studded with
villages ; further to the north-Avest is spread the lake
of Appolonia, Avith its numerous islands, and more
westerly the eye commands the peak which marks the
mouth of the Rhyndacus and the mountains at Mualitch.
Many of the lesser mountain tops and ranges are only
distinguishable from the undulating plain by the crowns
of cloud which hang over them ; while the chains of clouds
that float away from them, stretching across the Sea of
Marmora, appear like promontories and islands on the
water, until they are compared with the real islands which
line its shores, or break its expanse with their ragged
outlines and darker masses. Due east rises a conical peak
in the vicinity of Sabanja. The eagle soars and poises
himself above the frowning cliffs, still maintaining his
sovereignty on the throne of Olympian Jove, whose
" oracles are dumb." The air at this elevation was balmy
and exhilarating, and my soul drank in with enthusiasm
the magnificence of God's Avorks. It was Avith regret I
turned my back on the scene, to descend again to the
loAver world. Constantinople can be seen from here in
clear weather, but this day the atmosphere on the horizon
was hazy. The descent to Brusa only occupied three hours.
The next morning I visited the hot springs, about
a mile from the tOAvn gates on the west. Extensive
Turkish baths have been constructed at the spot, into which
the Avater is conducted. The principal spring gushes from
a low bank, forming an accumulation of greasy-looking
deposit of a dirty Avhite colour, emitting a strong sulphurous
odour : the Avater Avas scalding, and on immersing a
thermometer, the mercury rose to 1880 Fahr. The source
of this heat must be very near the surface of the earth ;
for if so small a stream came from a great depth, it would

ASIA MINOR.

85

cool before reaching the open air. The interior arrange
ments of the building are very complete ; the cool
entrance room is surrounded by stalls, Avhile the centre
is occupied by a basin and fountain of cold Avater. This
water is strongly impregnated Avith earthy salts ; for the
broad and shallow marble vase, through which it rose and
overflowed into the basin, Avas encrusted with a thick
calcareous sediment, Avhich hung in several places from
its edges like a stony curtain. Passing through an inter
mediate domed room, I entered the inner room, in Avhich
Avas the tank of hot Avater under a large cupola. A dense
steam Avas diffused through the room, and the marble floor
Avas covered with Turks lying about, under the various
operations of kneading, shampooing, etc The polluted
atmosphere, from the infusion of a hundred Turks in
Avater, charged Avith sulphuretted hydrogen, did not induce
me to try the virtues of the bath, and having satisfied my
curiosity, I rode on to Moudania, without returning to
Brusa. I crossed two stone bridges over a bend of the
Oulfer, and reached that place in four hours.
I found here my felloAV-traveller, Avho had recovered from
his fever, and had crossed over by sea from Constantinople.
Moudania is a dirty little trading toAvn of one street, run
ning parallel and close to the water's edge ; it is mostly
built of loose stones Avithout cement.
We had noAV to arrange our future route and plan of
proceeding. In the first place we resolved, as a general
rule, to take no guides, but to " Avander at our OAvn SAveet
will," finding our way by map and compass, with the
assistance of inquiry as opportunity offered. In the next
place, to avoid as much as possible the main "post-roads,
as being devoid of novelty, while the people of the villages
removed from the beaten track are more unsophisticated
and less demoralized by contact with travellers: we laid
doAvn a course to the Avest of the Olympus range, foIIoAv-
ing the valley of the Rhyndacus to Azana; from thence
to Konia, and so to Tarsus by Seleucia.
We further divested ourselves of all superfluous baggage.

86 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
Our OAvn horses carried a small valise, and a cloak behind
their saddles, with guns and ammunition slung on our
backs or to the high pummel. The baggage horse carried
a pair of saddle bags, containing our clothes and a few
necessary articles ; our only luxury being a little tea. Our
beverage was to be the pure spring, and for provisions
we calculated that Avherever Ave found man, we should
find food. Our bedding consisted of a small cotton quilt
fastened over the saddle by a surcingle.
October 6. — With Giorgio mounted on the baggage horse,
we left Moudania in light marching order on the morning
of the 6th. The road led over hills through vineyards and
olive woods, with occasional glimpses of. the sea, between
the slopes. The Olympus chain has an imposing appearance
from this direction, a heavy belt of clouds hanging half
way down its sides. Beyond the village of Chabena we
came in sight of the lake of Appolonia, and about twelve
miles from Moudania, forded the Oulfer. There is a
ferry over the river at this place during flood time, but
at present the boat was lying high and dry, and the boat
man's hut was tenantless. The country we traversed was
undulating, studded with villages and clothed with woods
of the (Quercus ilex) evergreen oak. From the verge of
the hills forming the basin of the lake the prospect is
extremely fine. The expanse of water sprinkled with
islands, on the largest of Avhich is the town of Abulionte"
(the modern corruption of the name), connected with the
mainland by a Avooden bridge, numerous sailing boats
going and coming, the opposite shore rising boldly in a
range of picturesque wooded peaks. The town is adjacent
to the north shore of the lake, and appears a place of some
consequence. We reached the Eastern extremity of the
lake at Achala, and skirted along its south shore, through
the most luxuriant vegetation, above Avhich some gigantic
plane-trees towered conspicuous like islands. After a
march of 30 miles, as the evening began to close in, we
thought it time to look for shelter for the night, and took
the direction of a small village, Avhich appeared on the

ASIA MINOR. 87
declivity of the hills. This place Ave reached after a
rugged ascent, and found it to consist of 6 or 8 hovels
among the trees, Avith the common name of Tchabona,
which means a pouch, and seems to be applied to any
village in a nook or hollow. We procured food and
shelter with a Greek, but the room was so loosely put
together that the strong north-east wind from the sea
rushed in at floor, roof and AvindoAvs and after a cold night,
Ave Avere Avell pleased to resume at sunrise.
October 7. — The track continued through trees and under-
Avood along the shore of this fine expanse. The quantity
of drift wood and tangled dry weeds, suspended among
the lower branches of the trees and shrubs, gave evidence of
the water having risen to a great height above its present
level, and at Caraiola, a village to Avhich we soon after
came, which is noAV at a distance from the lake, we were told
that after the Avinter rains the water reached that place.
Finding provisions abundant here, we breakfasted, and
diverged from the shore of the lake southAvard. The water
line here runs nearly east and west. . After crowning
some hills, the valley of the Rhyndacus opened before
us: from the height Ave could trace the Avinding of the
river: it first flows Avestward from the hills, and then
SAveeps round and enters the south of the lake. The
river is called here Casaba Deresi (Casaba Water), from
the name of the nearest toAvn. To this toAvn Ave bent
our course through the broad dry sandy bed of a stream
which joined the river at Casaba, and probably during
floods forms one of its embouchures. The town is situated
Avhere the river emerges from the hills, and is built on
both banks, Avhich are connected by a long wooden_bridge.
It counts six or seven hundred houses. The Rhyndacus
is here a fine clear stream and at this season fordable.
Riding across the bridge, we alighted at a neat khan
with comfortable rooms, and while dinner was being
prepared, walked out to shoot some pheasants, which we
Avere told Avere numerous in the valley of the river. I
succeeded in shooting a hen, which appeared- identical

88 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
with the English pheasant. Their habits are also similar:
we found them in small troops in the old grain fields, from
whence they made for the cover of thick bramble and
grass, into which they dropped, and where they were quite
safe, as the tangled thorn brake was quite impenetrable.
The natives describe the cock bird as having a ring round
the neck, and those I saAV flying appeared to be so marked.
October 8. — Leaving Casaba on the morning of the 8th,
we followed the course of the Rhyndacus, being desirous
of tracing it to its source, Avhich object Avas early frustrated
by the nature of the country. The vale was very beautiful,
becoming more hilly as Ave advanced. At Melkui Ave forded
the river with the water up to the girths, and traversed
some wooded hills to cut off a bend of the stream, and
forded again at Kestelek. On the opposite bank, stood
a rather picturesque ruin on a hill, Avhich we climbed to
explore. It was an old native fort; the portions of wall
which Avere standing being built of unhewn stones and
mortar: it was near the village of Hajekui. The river
here takes an abrupt bend to the left round a bluff hill.
We had to ford it twice more during the day's march, at
Yenikui, and at Curajela, Avhere we stopped for the night.
These villages, which are numerous near the river, are
built of logs, and the people are most hospitable and obliging.
Our course is here stopped by a range of wooded moun
tains, highest on this bank, and the people assure us that
it would be impossible to follow the river except on foot,
as it passes through a wilderness of forest and mountain,
without villages or inhabitants, and where there is no track.
It was to this place that Hamilton came, and I believe it is
from his information that the river is called Edrenos, a
name which the people had never heard of. The vine is
very productive; but their laAv not permitting them to make
wine, the juice is extracted by a rude press, and then boiled
to the consistence of honey, and forms an article of exten
sive traffic.
We diverged from the banks of the river by an E.S.E.
course over the mountains, through forests of oak and .fir.

ASIA MINOR. 89
mixed with the light green of the larch, and passed through
a lovely Alpine pass, at the head of Avhich Avas a Avater-mill
turned by a braAvling stream. After five hours' march we
crossed a broad beaten track, and a cafila of mules laden
with bales, and boxes, passing at the time, the drivers in
formed us that they came from Kutaya ; this is probably
a high road to Galipoli. In another half hour Ave emerged
from the pine forest and entered Avoods of dwarf oak (Ilex),
Mount Olympus rising on the left, and several conical
mountains' far off on the right. As evening fell, the oak
woods became more dense, and as Ave had been in the saddle
for upAvards of ten hours, Ave Avere not sorry to discover a
village in a sandy basin off the road on our left This
village, Hasan Kiui, is an open cultivated clearing on
the borders of the forest, at the foot of an abrupt mound
crowned with a clump of firs. The people seemed poor and
miserable, and the only fare we could procure was fried
eggs and grape syrup. They had a handsome breed of
Persian greyhounds, and these Avere carefully covered up in
body clothes to protect them from the cold. They are used
to hunt deer, Avhich are found in the hills, and hares, which
are abundant These oda musafir, though a great con
venience, are attended Avith counterbalancing discomforts.
They are the lounge of the village and the arrival of a
stranger is the signal for the attendance of the Avhole
village, Avho range themselves in a row round the Avails and
light their pipes. As long as one has information to obtain
respecting the country and the roads, this is all very Avell,
but it takes time to reconcile you to endure their smoke
and stupidity, while you dress, Avash, eat, and Avrite, until
they have seen you fairly into bed ; after Avhich they drop
off one by one to their own homes. If you are fortunate
in having an impertinent audience, it gives a pretext for
their summary expulsion : but in general they are so
provokingly polite and willing to oblige that one is fain
to put up Avith the annoyance. A greater bodily dis
comfort are the sAvarms of fleas Avith which these houses
abound.

90 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
October 10. — Taking an easterly course, Ave crossed an
elevated plateau strewn with boulders of black rock, similar
to those on the summit of Mount Olympus, passed through
the village Demijekui, at the foot of a conical mound,
and entered mountains of bright red soil, contrasting Avith
the bright green foliage of the firs which clothed them.
We hastened on through a storm of thunder and rain, and
after passing a tract of oak Avood, stopped at Yavoshkui,
a village built of logs and stone. We took possession of
the oda, and might have plundered the village, as there was
not a man to be found in the place, all being out at work.
By the time we were settled in the oda, they all returned,
and we had the usual evening, with a cheerful blazing fire
on the hearth.
October ri. — The country was now more open, with
scattered trees and hanging woods on the hill-sides. After
three hours' riding S. and S.E., the path followed the bank
of a stream, running due west for two hours, to pass through
a range of mountains, and then resumed a S.E. course.
We then passed some tall isolated rocks ; on the east face
of one of these was an excavated tomb with a sculptured
door, the only opening in which was a round hole about
a foot and a half in diameter, the original aperture being
under the pediment : the interior was a square chamber,
with an oval well in the floor. It is situated about two
miles north of the village Kuprujik, which Avas visible
from it. The hills noAV become more isolated, rising in
abrupt cones, the country well cultivated and abounding
in red-legged partridge. We again struck on the Rhyn
dacus, winding through plains : forded it below a wooden
bridge, and passed through the small toAvn Maimon, which
can boast of two mosques. Tavo or three miles further
brought us in sight of the Minarets of Toushanlu, lying
on the right bank of the stream. We quartered in an
upstair Khan inside the toAvn, Avhich was very dirty and
uncomfortable, half of the rooms being full of fancy
pigeons ; some of them very handsome ; and this being
the Khanji's hobby, he certainly sacrificed to it the

ASIA MINOR.

91

comfort of his guests. Our horses required rest, the
baggage horse being saddle-galled, and we hired a
donkey to relieve him of part of his load.
October 12. — Passed the day here : it being market day,
the place Avas crowded with country people, who were
astonished to see us Giaours walking about their streets.
The shops were stocked with European goods, and even
English shot Avas exposed for sale. It is a place of some
importance under the Pashalic of Kutaya; from whence
a neAv governor had just arrived. We left at 12 next day,
fording the river near a Avooden bridge, passed Gourachai,
and travelled south through hills Avhich gradually swelled
to mountains. To-day we passed the first Turcoman tent :
they are usually made of felt, but this was of black hair
cloth, like the Arabs' tents : but Avhatever the material,
hospitality is ahvays to be found under a tent, whether of
Arab, Turcoman, or Khoord. The owner was absent with
his flocks, but his Avife, a dark-eyed wanderer, brought
us delicious milk, and begged us to remain until a more
substantial repast Avas prepared : this we were forced to
decline, as Ave Avere pressed for time, having started late.
From this mountain ridge we had a last vieAv of Olympus,
rising clear in the north. After a six hours' ride we
stopped for the night at KosAvoja, on a brook flowing to
the river and surrounded by chalky hills. We found the
oda already occupied, and as the travellers were respect
able Turks, Ave shared the room with them. Here Ave
heard from the villagers most exciting descriptions of the
ruins of Azana, about twenty miles south of this, and Ave
Avere up and off long before daylight, in order to have
time to examine them. 
October r^. — The road continued mountainous until Ave
passed Charta on the right and a black peak on the left,
when Ave found ourselves on the main table-land of Asia
Minor, to which we had been gradually ascending. These
plains, varied only by abrupt ridges and solitary peaks,
which rise so suddenly from the plateau that you may
define Avithin twenty yards where the plain ends and the

92 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
mountain begins, reach to the Taurus range overlooking
the Mediterranean. Here they are studded with villages.
The Rhyndacus, Avhich we crossed and recrossed, is now
dwindled to a small stream. At Toushanlu it is called
the beautiful Avater (Khoja Soo) ; it flows through the
ruins of Azana, and has its source about ten miles south
of this place. The village of Tchader rears its humble
roofs among the imposing ruins of Azana, and as soon
as Ave had housed our horses and baggage, we spent the
rest of the day in exploring the ruins. The mound nearest
to the village is crowned by the ruins of the temple of
^Ezanensian Jove. It is a parallelogram 18 paces by 30,
The entablature which remains is supported by fluted Ionic
columns 24 feet in height; 18 of these are standing, and
one which stands alone is crowned with a stork's nest.
The ground is strewn with the broken columns and
fragments that have fallen, and the remains of this
beautiful temple will probably before long be laid equally
low, for the work of destruction is fast going on, the
peasants having chiselled away the lower part of the shafts
of the columns above the bases to arrive at the small
square cavity at the axis, where they find, or expect to
find coins : the columns now standing are only supported
on half of their diameters. Great devastation has also
been committed in the solid walls for the same purpose
of discovering coins or antiques between the stones ; and
we Europeans unavoidably encourage the work of de
struction by our eager pursuit after and purchase of these
antiquities. We groped our way through a breach in the
ruined basement into a dark, damp, but Avell-built vault
extending the Avhole length of the building. The temple
is surrounded by an inclosure of massive blocks of
stone, and is supposed to be of the time of the
Antonines. Due north, and exactly facing it, is the
theatre, in good preservation : the seats on the east side
are perfect. There are sixteen rows of stone benches,
supported at the alleys by lions' feet. The circumference
of the upper row measured 180 paces : between the front

r
'- ..
ASIA MINOR.

93

of the circus and the temple, extended a stadium 220
paces in length. The ground sloped up from both sides

of this, and Avas also lined with toavs of stone seats : it
was terminated by the remains of tAvo large square build
ings, formed of immense blocks of stone, and supported
on massive arches. The buildings Avhich had formed the
front of the theatre, and which separated it from the
stadium, had fallen, except some of the more massive
Avails, Avhile the interior area Avas encumbered Avith
an indiscriminate pile of blocks, sculptured arches, friezes
and fluted columns : one sculptured stone measured ten
feet by five ; others Avere six feet square.
On the slopes of the hill, above the theatre, are many
massive tombs 9 feet long, some angular" and others
rounded or hog-backed, Avith a head of Medusa sculptured
at each end. A paved masonry quay and the remains of
an aqueduct formed the left bank of the stream, across
Avhich Avere the ruins of two stone bridges of four arches.
The banks of the stream and the gardens of the village
of Tchader Avere encumbered with ruins, while the plain
for miles around gave evidence of their vicinity, every
fountain being ornamented with an ancient sculptured
niche, or having a sarcophagus for a watering trough.
The cemeteries of this, and also of adjacent villages are

94 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
full of columns and beautiful marble fragments from this
depot, which are used as headstones for Turkish graves :
many of these have Greek sepulchral inscriptions. There
are the remains of two other temples or large buildings,
one of which is a toav of smooth truncated columns raised
on arches above ground. Scattered about I counted eight
perfect altars or pedestals. It is only surprising that so
much of these remains still exist, as they form a quarry
for building materials for the natives, who carry the
columns away to the towns and use the stones and
marbles for the walls of their houses and hovels.
From a truncated column in the cemetery I copied the
following inscription :
AYTOKPATOPIKAI 1 PI A
MinCEYHPnnCEPTlSlvlA
and on a marble fragment, AIONYCIOCNM
We procured several brass and copper coins, both Greek
and Roman. One of the former, which is not common,
has a turreted head, and on the reverse is a Mercury with
a Greek legend of Corycus Cilicia ; another, Antiochus VI.
King of Syria.
We employed the evening and next morning in exploring
and making drawings of the different objects of interest,
and then struck across the plains to the east. A small
stream which Ave passed had six stepping-stones for pedes
trians, all of which were architectural remains, brought
from the ruins. These were a Corinthian capital, part of
a fluted pillar and two smooth ones, a small altar and
part of a pilaster. We passed the several villages of
Hajekui, Hajemonikui with a large Mosque, Chamki
Guevetch, Ouchar and Tauslere.

SARCOPH: ELETJSA. CLLIC1A..
(See p. 133.)

RUIMS AT AZANA.

ASIA MINOR.

95

At a distance Ave saAv an eagle struggling to rise from
the plain Avith something too heavy for him : and on riding
up, he proved to be a noble golden eagle, measuring seven
feet across the Avings. He Avas caught in a large iron
gin, without teeth, Avith a heavy log attached, which
he Avas vainly endeavouring to drag along. He lay
quite still, not attempting to strike, Avhilst I opened the
trap, seeming to understand my good intention, and as
soon as he felt himself free, he soared slowly aAvay into
the sky. I had to consider the disappointment of the
trapper, but his clear beseeching eye and great beauty
carried it in his favour. FolloAving a small stream flowing
E.S.E., Ave reached the village of Giochelar in seven hours
from Azana. We Avere very well treated by the people
at the Oda, and our visit to Azana having excited our
spirit of antiquarian research, we made numerous inquiries
of the villagers with respect to any more ruins on our
road. We were told that there were remains at a place
called Almala, in a direction due east, and thither we
determined to direct our march. Leaving early in the
morning, Ave passed Eucheuk and Yalansera, crossed a
marshy stream by a stone bridge, Avhich had also taken
its tribute from the ruins of former cities. A pedestal
and other fragments were built into it, and on the bank at
the other side stood a marble pillar. Passed Kujak. The
cemeteries of these villages are very conspicuous, forming
groves of upright stones, principally columns, etc., brought
from the nearest ruins. These cemeteries cover vast areas,
there is so much waste land in proportion to the popula
tion, that they do not pile up the dead as in England,
but each neAV comer has a separate resting-place. - After
marching five hours, we struck on the high road from
Kutaya to Konia, at a fountain shaded by a circle of
fine Avillows, the only trees which were visible on the
plain Avhich spread around.
The only living thing here was a blackbird, which.
Avas quite tame. He appeared to be the good genius
of the spot, and hopped round us unharmed:- It would

9^ FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
have been almost sacrilege to have molested this solitary
dweller in the oasis. Hoav often, Avhen tediously pacing
hour after hour in solitude and silence these Eastern
tracks, will a bird or a floAver conjure up, as by enchant
ment, associations of bygone times, past scenes and
forms of absent friends, Avhen present, perhaps unap
preciated, but absent Ave feel how strong the cord that
bound us to them. " To me the meanest floAver that blows
can give thoughts that do often lie too deep for tears."
And then again to think Avith what pleasure Ave shall
hereafter look back on our wanderings, unalloyed even
by the thoughts of their forgotten discomforts, the night
bivouac or glorious sunset scene; the morning march or
midday rest under some spreading tree or massive " rock,
casting its grateful shadow in a weary land," together with
the inspiration from the beauties of nature and the health
of body and exhilaration of mind which we enjoy I This
is some compensation for the hardships and deprivations
necessarily encountered in rough travel.
We continued our route eastAvards to a ruined village
under a hill near a few high trees. The fountain Avas built
with fragments of pillars and sculpture. Crossing over the
hill, we reached the village of Chorse in an undulating
park-like country, with groups of trees. The villages here
are differently built from those we left behind ; the roofs of
ther'houses are all flat, instead of being sloped ; the natives
say that the latter fall doAvn during the winter rains. In half
an hour more Ave reached Almala, situated in a semicircle of
steep hills. It had a curious appearance, the flat roofs
being all croAvned Avith haystacks. As it was at this village
we had been told Ave should find ruins, as soon as the
usual circle in the Oda Avas collected, we began to make
inquiries, but no one had seen them. At length an old
man told us that there Avas a kala (castle) on the top of a
mountain, close behind the village, to which he offered to
conduct us. We also learnt that there were ruins at
Dooaslan, about five miles further east.

ASIA MINOR.

97

-The next morning Ave ascended the steep rugged moun
tain, through a heavy fog, in search of the Kalah, but on
reaching the summit, we found little to reward our pains,
nothing in fact but the appearance of a Cyclopean wall of
rough stones, surrounding the flat space at the top, beside
large masses of natural rock. The vieAv from this point
must be very extensive, but we only caught glimpses of the
surrounding country through the ragged masses of fog that
hung over the plains, or slowly climbed up from the valleys
at our feet. Nothing baffled, Ave Avent on to Dooaslan,
which must evidently have been near the ruin of some
large tOAvn. The cemetery Avas croAvded Avith columns and
sculptures, and fragments were also built into the walls of
the houses. Supporting the corner of one hovel Ave saw
a white marble pedestal, to which the sandalled feet and
drapery were still attached. There was a long Greek
inscription on the pedestal. The villagers directed us to
a plain about a mile to the north, which, there is no doubt,
was the site of some large city : the ground Avas intersected
by lines of ruined walls, with a mound in the centre, on
which probably stood the Acropolis, though it Avas now
ploughed over. Near a small stream, that ran through
the plain, Avere the remains of stone drains still perfect:
fragments of red brick are very abundant, as Avell as large
massive slabs blackened by time. This place Avould appear
to be much more ancient than Azana, from its almost total
disappearance, and yet the only part we found standing
Avas the doorway of a Christian church, so I assume from
the Cross and the slovenly ornaments of the lower Empire.
There Avere some sculptured fragments, but all of stone.
This place is near the site of Pelta. To the north-of it Ave —
found some high chalk cliffs, cut into conical pinnacles and
excavated in all directions with catacombs and isolated
tombs ; most of these were galleries into Avhich the small
narrow cells opened. There were also some large caverns,
which, from their blackened roofs, appeared to have been
used by the herdsmen as dwellings. I Avas wandering
alone and about to enter and explore one of these- caverns,
VOL. i. 7

98 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
when I thought I distinctly saAv inside, in the gloom, the
figure of a lion standing sideways and looking at me.
Being unprepared Avith arms to cope with such a foe, I
retreated cautiously with my shot gun ready, and returned
to my companion, whom I found in another part of the
plain. I mentioned this to him, which he of course did not
believe, and I myself, notwithstanding my remarkably
good sight, persuaded myself that I was deceived. We
did not, however, venture to return to verify our opinions.
The maneless lion is common in Mesopotamia on the
Euphrates, and the name "Do Asian'' is suggestive, but the
peasants had not heard of lions in these parts. I had
intended suppressing this notice until I met with the
annexed extract from FelloAves' Lycia, p. 157: "At Lydima
on the Zanthus, we Avere told that the country was full of
wild animals of the fiercest kind. I Avas extremely cautious
and particular in my inquiries as to their nature, and have
no doubt of the truth of the account, which I heard from
many of the people of the surrounding districts, and each
unknown to the other. In this village alone four or five lions,
called Asian by the Turks, and other animals called Caplan
(leopards), are killed every year. The man who first told
me had himself taken the skins to the Aga, to present
to different Pashas, and these presentations had been re
warded by one to two hundred piastres, which he himself
received. The lions, he said, Avere timid, unless surprised
or attacked, and I could not hear that they did much
injury to the flocks." This is strong evidence of the exist
ence of lions further Avest in Asia Minor, and subsequent
to my visit. By the time Ave had explored this interesting
locality, the sun had set, and Ave rode back by moonlight to
the village.
We left next day for Douaire, a small village, to the
east of which is a rocky valley, full of tombs and cells,
the most remarkable object being a high branching crag
pierced with chambers and galleries. At the village was
a massive ancient stone building, vaulted with flat tiles and
roofed with flat stones ; it had several chimneys and upper

ASIA MINOR. 99
rooms, and is noAV used as a Khan. The earth round the
village gave forth a strange rumbling sound as Ave rode
over it, as though it Avere holloAV or vaulted underneath.
Resuming our march, Ave passed some tombs in the hill
side on the right ; and several large rocks, jutting out from
the plain, had been completely hollowed out, leaving a sort
of stone house. Into one of these I rode on horseback
with facility. Another had three troughs round the interior.
We passed a number of these rocks scattered about, till we
reached Ilian. This village is built in one of these ancient
catacombs, Avhich is a labyrinth of crags and overhanging
rocks full of excavations. Some of them had been trans
formed into dwellings ; others were crammed with their
stores of straw, hay or fuel, and presented on the whole
a strange and extraordinary scene. BetAveen this and
Baykiui Avas a fine spring, which had been inclosed in a
quadrangular building noAV in ruins.
At Baykiui, among other tombs, were some round
excavations sunk in the rock with narroAV necks like
bottles. I have seen cisterns of the same shape in
Barbary, used for containing rain-Avater or grain. Here
a man offered to conduct us to some ruins a short distance
from the road : Ave accordingly made a detour to the
eastward, through rocky hills, Avhere Ave found more
catacombs cut in the scarped face of the sandstone rock.
We climbed up these, ascending by stairs in the interior
from cell to cell. One of the chambers was very large,
with six troughs, or sarcophagi : at the upper end Avas
a Ioav seat, Avhere the judge of the ancient mythology
sat to pass sentence on the dead, or it might have been
an altar for devotional offerings. A stone screen- with
three doors ran across the chamber, betAveen the first
and second troughs, which was partially broken down.
Our guide then led us to the ruins of a common Turkish
fort, on the summit of a rocky eminence, and was surprised
that Ave did not appear gratified by what Ave saAv, he
not being able to distinguish between one heap of old
stones and another. After a detour of four hours through

IOO FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
a rocky wilderness, Ave came to a goat-herd's hut : a
comfortable-looking dAvelling, of an oblong shape, formed
of arched trellis work, covered with thick white felt, after
the manner of the Turcomans. These poor people were
very civil ; they brought us milk and cakes baked on the
hearth, and seemed pleased that we should enjoy their
hospitality. This man grazed several thousand sheep and
goats, whether his own property or belonging to a tribe
I cannot say. He told us that during the cold season he
removed his abode to one of the large caves, which are
numerous in these hills, feeding his goats and sheep on
oak leaves collected during the summer.
Dismissing our guide, we resumed our course in the
direction of Iasin, where we had been informed we should
find some interesting remains, traversed a fertile country
by two villages, Tekeh Irambol and Caira, standing close
together, and, turning to the eastward, arrived at Iasin
in the afternoon.
The first object which attracted our notice before enter
ing the village was an excavated rock about thirty-five
feet high, which had been scarped and cut away, leaving
the appearance of a rude house with roofs, doors, and
windows projecting from its face. As an imperfect draw
ing always gives a clearer idea of a subject than a minute
description, I made an outline of this curious object from
my horse. Our surprise was increased on entering to
find ourselves in a large chapel hollowed out of the solid
rock : the roof was vaulted : the pillars, which had stood
under it, though not necessary for its support, had been
broken away : above" the roof rose a circular dome, corre
sponding with the form of the outside: at the back of
the chapel, communicating with it by a doorway in the
centre, Avas another arched room, with rude stone seats:
on the left, also communicating Avith the chapel by a door
in the stone partition, was a long passage with troughs on
either side for coffins : the broken doorway was large
enough to alloAV our riding in on horseback. We searched
everywhere for inscriptions, but could only discover the

BOCK CHURCH. IAS1W.

ASIA MINOR.

IOI

folloAving figure sculptured in relief over a side arch in
the long passage :

A sculptured cross had been chipped off from the face
of the wall. Turning doAvn the valley to the left, a most
extraordinary scene presented itself to our view: the
whole of a long range of sandstone cliffs was cut into
pinnacles and cones and pierced with innumerable tombs
with sculptured facades. Those at Ilian were merely caves
and chambers, but many of these had columns supporting
a pediment, and merit a more detailed description.

FlG. i. — Above this tomb was a pointed pediment, in the
centre of Avhich Avas sculptured a sun in relief; over an

102

FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.

entablature ornamented Avith dentils. The upper half of
one of the pillars that supported it was perfect, a rough
Doric column Avith a fluted ovolo. On either side above
the cornice of the door, Avhich receded from the outer face,
were tAvo lions sejant in alt-relief: the one on the left
rested his paAV on a bull's head. The interior chamber
was divided into five troughs, four across and one at the
back : tAvo more lions Avere sculptured on the back Avail ;
a half-length figure on either side of the door and a
sun above it. Above this was another arched chamber,
the ceiling of which had been covered with fresco paint
ings of figures on a Avhite cement: several of these
had glories round their heads and one held a book in
his hand. The colour had entirely faded, leaving nothing
but brown and white. These paintings had probably been
superadded by later tenants than the excavators of the
rocks.

FlG. 2. — A pointed pediment supported by plain Doric
columns. Above the doorway of this Avere tAvo lions
within a semicircle: the entrance to this was very small
as well as the interior chamber.

ASIA MINOR.

IO3

FlG. 3. — A tomb with Ionic pillars, the tops of which
remained attached to the rock.
Altogether this locality has the strangest appearance I
ever Avitnessed. The village of Iasin Avas partly built ; and
partly composed of the excavations Avhich had been Availed
up. Many of the large tombs were used for storing grain
and straw, being furnished Avith wooden doors for the
purpose. In our Avalk round the village Ave could discover
no remains of buildings or fragments, but returning to the
Oda Ave purchased a number of Christian copper coins Avith
a head surrounded by a glory on one side, the reverse Avith
the Avords, " Christus Basilius Basilii"
One old man, who had lived all his life in this village,
told us we Avere the first Franks he had ever seen, which
would lead one to suppose that this remarkable spot has
seldom, if ever, been visited of late years. These cata
combs and tombs serve to indicate the sites of ancient
cities, and from their extent and style there can be little
doubt that some large place stood someAvhere in the
vicinity, and I regretted extremely that we had not time
to make more extended researches.

IO4 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
From the existence of the chapel in the rock, it would
appear that .this place had given refuge to colonies of
Christians during the persecutions of the early church.
Had they been the retreat of the Iconoclasts, at a later
date, it does not seem probable that this sect would have
countenanced paintings of saints, considering the horror
they entertained of images.
Iasin is about fifty miles south of Doaslan and thirty
north of Eskikarahissar. We crossed the head of the valley
in which the village is situated, which is surrounded on the
north-east by a circle of rocky hills: passed over these
hills to Bojeuk and went on to Cosooga. At this village
we found a man in the oda musafir, who was collecting
the revenues from the peasantry ; he informed us .that these
small villages, averaging fifteen families, paid about 5000
piastres (£50) per annum to the Government They have
here a substitute for rice, called Burgool, which is generally
used in this country as well as in Syria ; it is made of
wheat in the following manner: the grain is first boiled
and exposed to the sun to dry, which causes the skin to
peel off; when dry, it hardens and is partially broken by
a handmill. This preparation softens quickly by boiling
and forms a nutritious food either as a pillaf or boiled in
milk. A great deal of grain is cultivated in the district.
There was nothing else remarkable but the clouds of
starlings and sparrows that infested the village.
The next morning's march Avas over hills clothed with
dry grass, passing near a village called Karagatch, lying
in a valley to the left, above Avhich were more excavated
cliffs, and Ave soon after reached Eskikarahissar (The old
black castle). This village is' built on the site of an exten
sive city, which appears to have been almost wholly built
of white marble, from the great profusion of that material
Avhich lies scattered over the ground in all directions.
The Turkish houses Avere curiously variegated with the
white fragments that were built into them. None of the
ancient buildings were standing, all of them having been
destroyed for their materials ; this place serving as a

ASIA MINOR.

105

magazine or quarry for the country round. The people
informed us that whenever pillars Avere wanted for building
a Mosque or Kiosk, they were sent for from this depdt,
though latterly they were compelled to dig for them. The
fragments of sculptured foliage and architectural orna
ments were in beautiful preservation and appeared fresh
from the chisel and the angles as sharp as when cut,
of a dead Avhite, Avithout even the polish of time and
Avear. I consider this a proof of the purity of the air

?»as

«S?-:±-J?-»-^-i'J*-ey'5!Ki©==-i
Marble Font.

in this climate. The only object that Avas at all perfect
was a handsome font or bath, cut out of a single block
of white marble. It Avas in the form of a cross 6 ft. long,
4J broad, and 3 deep, Avith steps inside at both ends, and
a plain cross sculptured on each side, a very handsome
object, and quite entire. I Avished it had been portable. A
small stream flows by here to Bulwaden,. over- which is
throAvn a good bridge of one arch built of blocks of stone
taken from the ruins : some of these had the sculptures
and mouldings still on them. The villagers had a story
relative to this bridge, that it was built by a Greek papa,
who died here and Avas embalmed and carried to Roum.
This name of Roum has an indefinite signification : it is
applied indiscriminately to Byzantium in Roumelia, the

106 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
province of Roum, including the north of Asia Minor, a
Sultany in the time of the Greek Emperors, and Rome
in Italy.
A number of inscriptions are to be seen in different
places, one of which is entire and built into the wall of
a house. The cemetery is full of sculptures mixed with
the rude modern tombs of the Turks, on Avhich are figured
the emblems of their trades. Eskikarahissar is supposed
to be on the site of Synnada, Avhich was celebrated for
its quarries of marble. It is twenty-five miles north-Avest
of Bulwaden. From here we traversed plains and were
overtaken by a thunderstorm before reaching Fallale.
These plains abound in flights of sand grouse (Pterocles
arenarius). At a fountain on the road to Bulwaden Ave
met with some long Greek inscriptions which we had not
time to copy.
Bulwaden is a large town supposed by some to be on
the site of Philomelium : by others the locality of that
place is given to Akshekr. It has several Mosques and
Khans ; at the door of one of the former we found a fine
Corinthian capital, and fragments of stone pillars Avere
lying about the street.
We had made many inquiries respecting the country
to the eastward of this, for the purpose of visiting a place
called Tuzla, in the vicinity of Avhich are salt lakes. How
ever, there appeared verv little inducement for diverging
so far from the road, as the country Avas represented to be
entirely desert, only frequented by Cafilas Avho brought
salt from a station at these lakes. After procuring some
refreshment, we left the tOAvn, crossed a bridge over the
river, and followed a long causeAvay through a tract of
marshy land that extends to the foot of the Sultan-
dagh, an abrupt range of wooded mountains that rose on
our right. This causeway had several bridges and culverts
over the different streams, and in rainy seasons is the only
passable track. The lakes (which appear in the map) of
Eber and Aksher are only marshes, Avhich are overflowed
after long-continued rains ; part of them are now under

ASIA MINOR. IO7
cultivation. We saw several sculptured slabs and inscrip
tions inserted in the bridges and fountains on the road.
Passing the villages of Chai and Chillik, at some distance
from our path, Ave reached Eber, a large straggling dirty
village, where Ave had great difficulty in procuring a lodging,
and Avhen Ave did so, we had to share it with some of the
natives and myriads of fleas. These insects are one of
the greatest pests of the Levant, and I have no doubt,
from the irritation they occasion, they are the cause of
many of the fevers from Avhich strangers suffer in these
countries. We had provided ourselves with the bed in
vented by Fellowes, consisting of a pair of sheets seAvn
together with muslin continuations, to hang above the
head, expanded by a cane hoop, and this saved our lives.
I Avas surprised at seeing flocks of the common rook round
this place, and they are probably migratory. We followed a
level road through a fine country; the range of Sultan-dagh
rose abruptly on the right : along its foot were numerous
villages surrounded by orchards. The mountains were
clothed with dwarf oak, the rising Avaves of which were
tinted with the broAvn hues of autumn. An old woman
on the road, as Ave rode along in the rain, mistook us for
Turkish recruits and cried out, " Go, Avith the blessing of
God, my children, your mothers are weeping at home for
you, and you are braving the Aveather on the Sultan's
business." Part of this Avas not far from the truth, alas!
We stopped at the small town of Casaba, where Ave sat
in a shop and ate a luncheon of Kimak, bread, and dried
fruit, and in seven hours' march arrived at Aksher.
This is a large straggling place running up a steep valley
of the Sultan-dagh. There were some remains-of-ancient
Avails along the streets. The Khans being all occupied, we
Avaited on the Pacha, who sent us to- the Armenian quarter,
the highest part of the town. Streams of black muddy
Avater Avere floAving doAvn through the streets. We were
quartered in a very nice house, belonging to an Armenian,
Avho entertained us remarkably well.
The Armenians are a fine-looking race. They are

108 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
scattered all over this country, and are the principal
traders, collecting the produce of the villages, which they
forward to the seaports. On this account they are wealthy
and are protected by the Turkish Government, acting
as bankers to the Pachas, and having the character of
being honest and straightfonArard in their dealings. Their
cast of physiognomy strongly resembles the Dalmatian.
Surrounded by trees outside the town gates, stands an
elegant domed Mosque, called the Mausoleum of Nour-ed-
Din, a Turkish saint On inquiry of our host, he informed
us that there were two roads to Konia, one the regular post
road, the other more westerly, winding through the lower
ranges of the Sultan-dagh, joins the road from Yalobatch
(Antioch in Pisidia) to Iconium. Yalobatch is S.W. of
Aksher at the back of this range of mountains. In some
maps the situation of Aksher itself is assumed as the site
of Antioch in Pisidia. Aksher was a capital of the Seljucks
till their conquest by Holaku in 1258. Choosing the
westerly and least frequented route, we left Aksher the
next morning; the weather Avas unfavourable, being cold
and rainy; we passed the villages of Aghreet, Aris and
Casaba, surrounded by fruit trees, through a fertile country
with abundance of water. From Casaba the road was
easterly and hilly to Croos, at which place we arrived after
eight hours' march and experienced much hospitality from
the natives.
October 25. — Our course continued east over the moun
tains, when we entered a beautiful cultivated valley, in
closed between fir-clad hills. A stream ran through this
valley from south to north, Avhich Ave followed to Chegel.
There is a remarkable breed of goats in these hills : they
are. small and of a brown colour, and are clothed with a
fleece of short curled hair as soft as silk.1 At these villages
are large flocks of these goats, and as I have never seen
them beyond its limits, I suppose they are peculiar to
this chain of Sultan-dagh.
1 I subsequently saw cloaks (Pushtin) in Afghanistan made of the skins of
the same animal.

ASIA MINOR. IO9
We rested at this village for half an hour, and then
struck into a good road, Avinding through the hills towards
Konia. If Yalobatch is on the site of Antioch, then, con
sidering the unchangeable nature of Eastern roads, this
Avas probably the path folIoAved by St. Paul the Missionary,
in his journeyings between that place and Iconium. We
slept at the village of Deverent, where the people were
not so accommodating as usual, and refused to furnish us
Avith anything until payment was first made.
The next morning Avas cold and frosty. We followed the
same stream to its source, and crossing over a ridge of hills
came to the source of another, flowing in an opposite
direction. The road was parallel with this stream to
AAVoklik, and at sunset Ave had reached the verge of the
hills overlooking the plain of Konia, the mountains in the
distance Avearing a deep crimson tinge. One often sees
scenes in nature, the colouring of which is so vivid and
extraordinary, that were they put on canvas the artist
would be accused of exaggeration. The following is a
description of a lark common on these plains : Forehead,
chin and ears, yellow-white, a line of black feathers round
the croAvn terminates in a pencil or horn over each eye ;
throat, black; head and neck, stone-colour; back, light-
broAvn ; Avings and middle tail feathers, slate ; tail, 12
feathers black, outer Aveb of outer two, Avhite. It is larger
than the common lark.
By the time we had reached the plain, the night had set
in very dark, and we endeavoured to find some village by
folloAving lights, which appeared in different directions;
these Ave found proceeded from the gardeners' huts, erected
in all the orchards that supply the town. We-had now
fairly lost our road, and expected at every step to fall into
some pit or well in our blind search, as we had got en
tangled among the gardens, and after a Aveary scramble
through trenches, ditches, and hedges, it Avas nearly mid
night before Ave found the village of Ochachan, within
half an hour's ride of Konia. From the lateness of the
hour, Ave had some difficulty in procuring a lodging, and at

no

FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.

length Avere compelled to put up with a small room which
we shared Avith our horses.
Sunday, October 2j. — Leaving this early, in half an hour
we came to Konia. We found the town full of Turkish
troops, and all the Khans occupied. We Avere therefore
obliged to apply to the Pacha, who inspected our firman,
and sent us to be billeted in the Armenian quarter. As
our horses required rest, we remained here the next day,
which gave us an opportunity of seeing the town.
The space this place covers is very extensive, including
cemeteries, squares and ruins, besides bazaars, and numerous
streets. It is surrounded by massive stone walls, with
square towers. In these walls, composed of the remains
of the old Greek city of Iconium, are inserted an immense
number of slabs and sepulchral stones, with long Greek
inscriptions, as well as various sculptures. The square

'sXrrfr'/? ¦i'<-^fffi'i<^£:-fts'^^'fi--c^2^Z^

tower, in the side of which is the north gate, forms a most
incongruous mixture of ancient and comparatively modern

ASIA MINOR. Ill
materials. An ornamental arched frame, of Turkish Avork-
manship, surrounds a long Arabic inscription : the base of
this frame is a tablet of ten elaborately sculptured Greek
figures in bas-relief, separated from each other by small
pillars supporting a fretted roof. Above the arch is a
sun between two flying angels, and beneath, near the base,
is an unfinished colossal statue of Hercules, standing out
from the wall, and supported by the pedestal which is
built into the masonry: the left arm of this statue is "un
finished, Avhile the head and the right arm from the elbow-
are missing. The interior area of the northpart of the town
is occupied by numerous small mosques and mausoleums
of Turkish saints, built of sun-dried bricks and surrounded
by heaps of rubbish. There are no buildings of any great
antiquity ; at least we discovered none in the short time
Ave remained in the place, although Ave made minute^
inquiries of the Armenians, and others on this point.
Considering the wars that have desolated these regions
through successive generations, it is only astonishing to
find remains standing anywhere.
The Avails, Avhich Avere built by the Sultans of Iconium,
are objects of the greatest interest, and have served to
preserve the few historical relics of the former city, Avhich
Avould othenvise have disappeared Avith the Avreck of empires
in the vortex of ages. The long inscriptions in these walls
if collected Avould form a volume, as there are hundreds
of them, and they Avould take Aveeks to copy.
There was an Armenian wedding in the evening, which
was little remarkable except for a torchlight procession,
and a variety of superstitious ceremonies to ward off the
influence of the evil eye. The Armenians are- extremely
ignorant : many of them believe the grossest fables of the
papal system, and this in the very cradle of Christianity.
But where are the Churches of Cilicia, Phrygia, Pamphylia,
and the other provinces of Asia Minor? They are all
ruins, literally and morally. The splendid temples of
heathenism fell before, the plain edifices of Christianity,
and these, relapsing into polytheism and idolatry under

112 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
a different form, have boAved to the tent of the Turcoman.
" He that hath an ear to hear, let] him hear Avhat the Spirit
saith unto the Churches."
After leaving -Konia we intended visiting the ruins of
Lystra, situated in a group of mountains called Kara-
dagh, rising from the plain of Konia. These plains give
pasture to large flocks of goats and broad-tailed sheep,
and being high table-land on a level with the general
elevation of the Taurus range, they are covered with
snow in Avinter, and subject to inundations : they are noAV
frequented by flights of the common peeAvit, larks and
wheatears. We had applied to the Pacha for a teskere
for his Government, which he told us we had no occasion
for, as we carried a firman of the Sultan. In this, hoAV-
ever, he was mistaken, as • Ave afterwards experienced
inconvenience from the want of it
October jo. — We quitted Konia at noon, and being de
ceived by our maps, as well, as by the directions of the
people, we took a southerly course across the plains, Avhich
brought us at dark, after seven hours' march, to the village
of Chumra. Here Ave were hospitably entertained, and
having acquired more correct information respecting our
route, diverged the next morning to the eastward across
the plains. In the middle of the day we came to the broad
deep bed of a stream with steep banks ; in this vicinity
we saw large flocks of little bustard, and black-banded
sand grouse, and we shot some of the latter, it is a species
of ptarmigan,1 with feathered legs ; the upper part of the
body dashed with pale gold-coloured spots, the under part
jet black : it has no bare space round the eye ; the Avings
are extremely long, and its flights far and SAvift We
could not succeed in taking any of the bustard, but I
afterwards killed one in the ruins of Pompeopolis. It
was the Otis tetrao, the size of a common foAvl, a fine
large eye of a clear yellow, the back and Avings were
mottled-broAvn, the under parts Avhite.
1 This bird is common from the Atlantic to \he Indus. I have shot them
in Morocco and Afghanistan. (Pterocles arenarius.}

ASIA MINOR.

"3

We now directed our course toAvards an isolated peak
Avhich rose in the east, and soon aftenvards came to some
large encampments of Turcomans. Their huts, which are
circular and disposed in toavs, have a very curious appear
ance at a distance, giving one the idea of being the bases
of a colonnade of large pillars, and it Avas not till a near
approach that we could distinguish Avhat these new objects
were. They Avere formed of a light trellis, covered with
Avhite felt, and are exactly the form of a large wedding
cake, Avith a door at one side. These Turcomans, who
are knoAvn by the name of Yurook (Avanderers), frequent
these plains until the cold Aveather sets in, when they
descend to the towns on the coast ; this is nearly the
season for their migration ; they have numerous flocks,
some pretty good horses and camels, and pay taxes to the
Turkish Government. Near this camp were many large
mounds of earth, surrounded by trenches, in which their
straAV and forage are stored. These people had a pre
possessing appearance, which was not belied by their
civility. They brought us milk, and directed us on our
Avay, which however was now unnecessary, as the moun
tain range in which were the ruins of Lystra, near the
village of Sulimanje, rose abruptly in front of us.
On approaching its foot, we were informed by some
wayfarers that a marsh extended round its northern side,
and Ave accordingly wound round the south and over some
of the lower hills, arriving in ten hours at the large village
of Sulimanje, by the side of a small lake surrounded by
high reeds and covered with water-fowL These reeds
were the resort of myriads of starlings, whose clamour
as they came to roost in the evening Avas quite deafening.
We had been warned of the danger of visiting this place,
and our reception Avas quite different from what we
commonly experienced, and a contrast to the general
hospitality of the Turks. There Avere tAvo odas, but no
one came fonvard to assist the strangers or greet them
Avith the usual " Khosh Gelden": however, being quite in
dependent of their regard, Ave chose the best of the odas,

114 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
where we established our quarters, and sent Giorgio to
look for the oda bashi, Avho at length umvillingly appeared,
and procured us Avhat Ave AA'ere in need of.
It appears that these fastnesses Avere formerly the retreat
of a band of robbers and plunderers, who infested all the
roads in the neighbourhood and despoiled every one they
could venture to attack Avith impunity. From the dread
they occasioned, their resort Avas named Karadagh or " the
black mountain." Their depredations Avere put a stop to
by the Turkish Government, but the people still retain
their inhospitable character, and till lately it Avas not safe
for Englishmen to venture among them so unprotected..
The best plan in these suspicious cases is to act as if you
felt the greatest security, and accordingly, although the
people wished to persuade us that we ought to be " horribly
afraid," and that they had a prescriptive right to plunder
our property, we Avent out shooting round the lake, return
ing late in the evening. —
On inquiring for the ruins, Ave Avere told that they lay in
the hills about two hours to the east, and the spot was .
called Madanshere (The City of Treasures) and Bin bir
Killissay (Thousand and one churches). Having engaged
a guide, who tried to impose on us by representing the
distance to be much greater than it really was, our horses
were ready saddled and on the point of starting on the
morning of the 31st, Avhen Ave Avere sent for by the Aga, an
infirm old man with a long Avhite beard, who asked if Ave
had a teskerai from the governor of Konia. We explained
to him that the Pacha had not furnished us with one, con
sidering the Sultan's firman sufficient and of more Aveight
This the old fellow -could not understand, and said that
he should not allow us to proceed, but should send usback
to Konia with an escort. Finding persuasion was of no
use, and suspecting this to be a conspiracy to levy a bribe
or blackmail, Ave produced the Sultan's firman (of which,
by-the-bye, he could not read a word ! but which was
nevertheless an imposing-looking document), and coolly
told him that Ave intended starting immediately under the

ASIA MINOR. 115
Sultan's protection : that Ave Avere Avell armed, and that
Avhoever attempted to molest or detain us would do so at
their own peril, Avhile he would be ansAverable for any conse
quences that might result from his disregard of the Sultan's
authority Avith his head. As this took place in the
presence of all his divan, it effectually changed his tone,
and he at length consented to our proceeding Avithout
further hindrance, and something like an amicable feeling
Avas established, as we had hinted that we should still
complain to the Pacha of the neglect Ave had been subject
to, independent of this detention. On going to the door,
Avhere a number of the villagers were assembled, we
detected some of them in the act of purloining from the
saddle-bags of our horses, which Ave had left standing
unguarded without. One man, who had a shot-belt in his
hand, Avhich he was in the act of emptying of its contents,
we marched into the Aga for punishment As the old Aga
AA'as not in'a very pleasant frame of mind after his failure,
he ordered the thief to be thrashed, accusing him of throAv-
ing dirt on his head in the eyes of the Pacha, and, impatient
at the delay of his people, he staggered to his feet, and
belaboured the culprit Avith his shoe, till Ave were all in fits
of laughter. This saved the thief a more severe infliction,
and ended an affair Avhich might have resulted in great
inconvenience to us.
Quitting the village in an easterly direction through the
hills, in an hour Ave passed the slope at the foot of a
mountain covered Avith lines and inclosures of mined
Avails, and half an hour aftenvards descended into a basin
in which were an immense number of ruins. This was
the site of Lystra, of which we Avere in search — The-
situation of the place is very beautiful, embosomed in
an amphitheatre of hills clothed with brushwood, and
rising on all sides in picturesque peaks, except to the north,
Avhere it opened on the plain. There is nothing striking or
fine about the ruins, which consist principally of churches,
of Avhich Ave counted tAventy-three standing, justifying the
-exaggeration of "The thousand and one churches." The

Il6 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
only inhabitants we found here were two old women,
who emerged from one of the numerous vaults with Avhich
the ruins abounded ; the men, being shepherds, Avere grazing
their flocks in the hills. Leaving our horses in the care of
these people, Ave occupied several hours examining the
ruins. The churches were mostly built on one plan, with
irregular stones, without cement. The figure of the building
is an oblong nave and aisles ; the roof, Avhich was Ioav, sup
ported by two roAvs of flattened pillars, forming side j~>-
aisles ; and at the end towards the east was an f
alcove or half-dome : the transverse section of these I
pillars was thus - ^^
There were some specimens of finer workmanship, of a
much earlier period : the principal of these is a high octa
gonal stone building, which had been erected Avith much
more skill and neatness. It Avas probably a Temple of
the winds, but had been transformed into a church.
Another large square building of two stories was also of
the same date : the arches of the upper floor Avere sup
ported by two Avhite marble columns, Avhich either did not
originally belong to it, or showed the bad taste of the
architect These edifices had been stuccoed within, and
ornamented with fresco paintings of saints of large size,
the colours of many were Avell preserved : one Avas dravm
with a spear and shield : among them were several female
figures, most of them Avith a circle round the head. Many
of these old pictures had been wilfully effaced. They
appear to be of the same date as those of Iasin.
Among the ruins was a low neat Greek tomb, of hewn
stone, resembling the tomb of Cyrus at Persepolis, and on
the right side of the entrance of the toAvn, stood a lofty
half-dome of heAvn stone, probably belonging to the ancient
gate of the city in which sat the guards who kept the gate.
If so, it may have Avitnessed the sufferings of St Paul Avhen
stoned and left for dead without the city, at the same place
where he had been so lately Avorshipped as a God by the
fickle populace. It is a beautiful situation for a city in
an amphitheatre of hills, and six months ago I had little

¦i-
g

s a

ASIA MINOR.

"7

anticipation of passing my birthday among the ruins of
Lystra. In the southern part of the toAvn Avas a walled
inclosure, in the corner of Avhich was another large church,
a sketch of the interior of Avhich I made, and then visited
others on the heights to the south. They were all built in
the same plain style. I copied the folloAving inscriptions,
which may perhaps determine the date of their erection
from the formation of the letters. This first is on a stone
in the front wall of a church.

'O'ANATlAKHTE

o<$>

HE xtct
AA ITXM

OPOE

CE/S/AAPf

The second on the keystone of an arch in the same.

V
ENOAK EMAi /

'atakiic \-4 AIM A

ENTA ^

) * AA 1 IN At

Under the hills to the west was the quarry which had
furnished the materials for these buildings. There was no

Il8 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
marble to be seen, except the two white pillars above
mentioned. Most of the dAvelling-houses seem to have
been built on vaults into which there are descents by steps.
Having examined everything Avorthy of notice in this
remarkable locality, Ave breakfasted on cakes of meal, and
milk brought from underground by the old woman of
the vaults, and continued an easterly course to extricate
ourselves from the mountains, and in four hours again
descended into the plain and stopped at Chorlou, from
whence the higher peaks of the Taurus in the East were
beginning to put on their white capes.
The people at this village were extremely obliging, and
quite a contrast to our last -night's friends on the other side
of the mountain. It was quite cold enough for the enjoy
ment of a blazing fire, and, as usual, we had a circle of
visitors with the Aga at their head. He requested, as a
favour, to be allowed to see the firman of the young
Sultan, and when it was produced, the whole party im
mediately rose, and it Avas passed round, each man reveren
tially kissing the autograph and putting it to his forehead.
This respect must doubtless be shown to the Sultan as a
religious chief ; for the people of these parts of Asia Minor
are wishing for the government of Ibrahim Pacha, imagining
that their imposts will be diminished, little thinking that
if the Turks chastise them with whips, the Egyptians will
chastise them with scorpions. The manner in Avhich the
Turks in building their villages adapt themselves to the
means and materials afforded by the actual locality is
worthy of observation. Do they fix their abode in a rocky
district ? they build of rough stones or close up caves to
serve as dwellings. Do they settle on the plains? their
huts are raised of earth. In marshy land they use mud-
bricks dried in the sun and wattled reeds. Among ruins
their homes are formed of debris — old stones, fragments of
marble, sculptures and broken pillars are built in without
order or discrimination ; and in the woods they live in
oblong log houses ; nothing comes amiss to them as long
as they have not the fatigue and trouble of going out

ASIA MINOR.

•19

of their Avay for it. Their wells are also on the principle
of the economy of labour. A bucket is suspended to the
end of a long pole, which is supported at about a third of
its length in the fork of an upright post The short end
of this lever is loaded Avith large stones, till the ends are
nearly balanced, when it requires very little exertion to
raise and lower the bucket from the Avell.
It is a mistaken notion Avhich is often advanced that the
hospitality of the Turks and their Avillingness to oblige is
an effect of the liberality of travellers, and the English in
particular, Avhereas the exact contrary is the case : for
nothing is more demoralizing than ill-judged liberality, and
it Avill generally be found that in proportion as they have
come in contact with Europeans, in the same ratio will
they be comparatively extortionate, disobliging or cheats :
but this rarely happens on bye roads, or in out-of-the-way
villages, in some of which they may never have seen a
Frank. Often, after being entertained, and treated with
the greatest attention by these usophisticated people, they
appeared surprised at receiving payment on our quitting
them in the morning, which being unexpected shoAved that
they were little influenced by the love of gain. The best
plan is to give them the full value of Avhatever you may
have been furnished Avith, .besides a reasonable gratuity
for services ; but Avhere a man gives tAventy times the value
of everything, to gratify his vanity and love of display, he
not only injures the morality of the people, and throAvs
impediments in the way of future travellers, but he exposes
himself to be tormented by further exactions and increased
demands, as the natives naturally suppose they have a fool
to deal Avith. Extravagance begets extortion, or -in other
Avords fools make knaves ; and yet nothing is more
common than to hear people complain of the impositions
to Avhich they are subjected in travelling, for which as a
rule they have to thank themselves. On an average it cost
us about four shillings a day for board and lodging for
three men and three horses, and the people were ahvays
content.

120 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
November i. — We marched S.W. across the plain, leaving
Karadagh on the right, to Karaman. The ground Avas full
of burroAvs inhabited by a small animal, like a guinea-pig
without tail, with a soft grey fur. A dog belonging to
some natives caught one of them ; but I could not extricate
it from his jaws for the purpose of examination. The
plains feed large herds of sheep and goats. In five hours
we reached Karaman, the ancient Laranda. The place has
a pretty appearance on approaching it, being emboAvered
in fine trees and backed by an old Saracen or Norman
castle in ruins on a mound. The scene in the market-place
was very lively. It was crowded with people in a variety
of gay-coloured costumes, blue and red pelisses lined with
fur, embroidered jackets and green turbans, contrasting
with the staid appearance of the saturnine Armenians, in
their dark robes and black turbans.
On inquiry we were informed that there were three
different routes across the Taurus into Cilicia: the most
frequented of Avhich was the Keulek boghaz or Cilician
Gates, a fortified post of the advanced guard of .the
Egyptian army. This is the only road practicable for
artillery ; another route, but little known, to the Avest-
ward of this, near Sarikavak, was folloAved by some of
the troops of Mohammed Ali before the battle of Konia.
This is not passable with artillery, and the same may be
said of the Pass to the South of Karaman, which we
determined to traverse, although warned of the dangers
and badness of the tracks.
Our baggage horse being much galled, Ave hired a pony
of an old man to relieve him of his load, and went on the
same evening by a hilly road to Isandeh, one hour south
of Karaman. As this Avas the last village we should find
to the north of the Taurus range, we were desirous of
shortening our next day's march, which Ave were told was
sixteen hours. Isandeh is a village in a rocky hollow,
through which runs a stream. It has a mosque with a
square belfry, which the Aga said Avas built for a Christian
church. The next morning we started on our march

ASIA MINOR. 121
across the Taurus. The air Avas cold and frosty and the
brooks glazed Avith ice. We first traversed some rocky
hills, Avhere the numerous fossil bivalves that strewed the
path and surrounding ground Avas quite extraordinary :
they appeared to be the principal component part of the
soil. Further on, in a ravine where the sandy earth had
been dislodged, I discovered a deposit or bed of the most
beautiful fossils, principally univalves ; they looked as if
they had been carved in Avhite chalk, and Avere quite
perfect but very fragile. I collected seven or eight different
sorts, amongst Avhich Avere Murex, Turbo, Strombus, Conus
and Cyprea. I managed to carry these in preservation
to Syria, but finding them an incumbrance, and to
prevent their destruction, I gave them aAvay to different
friends Avho Avere interested in making a collection. This
spot must be at a great elevation, nearly on a level with
the summit of the Taurus range, there being no perceptible
ascent by this road from the plains of Konia on the table
land. We noAV entered a Avilderness of rocky cliffs and
barren tabled hills formed of successive terraces of hori
zontal rocky strata, which have a most peculiar and
artificial appearance. After marching about eight hours,
Ave began gradually to descend the southern declivity,
and on emerging from the confined hills, one of the
most magnificent and indescribable scenes I ever beheld
suddenly burst in view. We stood on the verge of a dark
vast sombre abyss, to the utmost depths of Avhich the eye
in vain strove to penetrate. The declining sun shot its
beams over a massive ridge across the plane of this blue
gulf, gilding the tops of the mountains that rose up from
the almost visible surface of the atmospheric sea^and the
stupendous perpendicular precipices that jutted out against
the sky on the right and served as colossal abutments to
the high table-lands of Asia Minor. Down far beneath,
faintly seen through the blue haze, lay the hoar shaggy
sides of the giant mountains and the gloomy windings
of the darker valleys, whilst beyond rose a succession of
chains and peaks till they Avere lost in the distance,

122 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
forming altogether a scene of grandeur and sublimity of
which I can give but a very faint idea.
The air rose in hot gusts from the lower level as we
began the abrupt descent of the mountains, the road
winding by cliffs around precipices and through enor
mous masses of rock piled one above the other, which
had rolled down from the impending peaks to block our
path. After dark the descent was rather perilous, the
rolling stones affording a very precarious footing. The
stars, however, were extremely bright, and shed sufficient
light to enable us to distinguish the path, which was
flanked by stunted wood. The country beneath was
glittering with lights, proceeding from Turcoman camps,
and travellers' bivouacs. A turn in the road brought us
suddenly on a party Avho had taken possession of some
excavated tombs, at the mouth of which they had made
a large fire to warm them for the night The over
hanging boughs were flooded with light, Avhich leapt from
rock to rock, illuminating the canopy of vapour that hung
above this retreat and deepening the gloom of the Avoods
and recesses of the mountains around. Rapidly descending,
we at length reached the foot of the froAvning range and
arrived at the village of Yaponde, having marched fourteen
hours, the old man of Avhom we had hired the baggage-
horse, and who was upAvards of sixty years of age, having
walked the whole of the distance on foot.
This village had not more than half a dozen houses, and
the oda was full of snoring Turks ; however, Ave found
another room full of Indian corn in the husk : on this, after
feeding our horses, Ave lay down and slept soundly till
eight in the morning, Avhen we started for Mout, arrived
there in an hour, passing through numerous cotton planta
tions, and crossing a bridge over a stream close to the
village. This was formerly Claudiopolis, and must have
been a very large city, judging from the quantity of
ruins that strew its environs. Near a large domed
Mosque a fine body of Avater gushes from a mass of
rocks, where apparently a temple once stood, numerous

ASIA MINOR.

"3

columns lying scattered about the banks. In other parts
there are toavs of truncated pillars and ruins of temples
and other buildings. On a rocky mound stand the walls
of a large Crusader's castle, which has a picturesque ap
pearance : a small stream Avinds through the valley, and
the vieAv is backed by bold bluff mountains. I here saAv
the bearded vulture1 (the SavIss lammergeyer). The
common vulture and the black vulture are very numerous
in Asia Minor and of enormous size ; at a distance, when
gathered round a carcase, vultures have the appearance
of a party of Arabs sitting on the plain ; they are very
heavy in rising and are obliged to assist themselves with
their feet running along the ground till they get their
immense vanes fairly expanded, Avhen they soar away in
concentric circles. There has been a controversy as to
hoAv the vulture discovers a carcase, and a vulgar error has
been propagated, giving the bird the property of scent at
miles distant An observation of facts places the matter
in a simple light In the early morning the vultures are
seen soaring upAvards until they are mere specks in the
blue vault ; from this height they can survey twenty or
thirty miles of desert Avith their telescopic eyes, and as
soon as one of them catches sight of a camel or other
animal fallen and abandoned by the caravan, he begins
to descend, and others, seeing his direction, follow from
all quarters, and in a very short time a number of them
have descended on their prey, Avhen none were seen
before. We Avent to the mutsellim of the village to procure
another horse, and Avhile it was being sent for, we stayed
and drank his coffee. He had an old French-percussion
gun, for Avhich Ave gave him some caps. The day was
insufferably hot, although the region we left above the
mountains was frosty and the temperature becoming very
cold. Being unsuccessful in procuring a horse, we were
forced to be content with a donkey to carry our baggage,
1 The bearded vulture I have seen from Morocco to Afghanistan.

124 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
and leaving Mout, Ave passed various massive ruins retain
ing no form or beauty, and traversing some low rocky
mounds in a south-westerly direction we reached the banks
of the Gioksoo (Blue water), Avhere there are remains of
two arches of an old bridge on the right bank. This
river has its name from the extraordinary colour of the
Avater, which is of a fine French green, caused by some
mineral deposit held in solution. The valley was full of
the camps of the Yurooks, who had descended from their
summer pastures on the table-lands. The views of the
river Avere very fine : Ave followed its left bank to
Karetcan, a village half in ruins, but the people were
very hospitable.
On the morning of the 4th, after crossing a small bridge
over a brook, the road led through sandy hills covered
with the broad-leaved arbutus, which here flourished in
great luxuriance, loaded Avith its waxen scarlet berries.
We stopped at a small village to procure a fresh donkey.
The peasants Avere reaping their crop of rice ; they brought
us milk, bread and fruit, but we only succeeded in pro
curing a wretched animal, Avhich, from its age, appeared
to have been an heirloom in its owner's family. With
some difficulty, Ave managed to march with this to Chiflik
in three hours. This village was a perfect little paradise
embosomed in a holloAv, the roofs of the houses peeping
through the rich foliage of the fruit and olive trees, with
which they were surrounded. As it was getting late, and
we were assured Ave should not reach any other village
before night, and as there Avas a dangerous descent further
on, we remained here for the night. It was more like
a Swiss than an Eastern village, and the accommodation
of a clean broad-roofed cottage Avith verandahs Avas too
tempting to be abandoned for the chance of a bivouac on
the hill-side. We fortunately found here a Greek, who
had a horse Avhich he Avas willing to hire to Selefkeh, and
which we accordingly engaged; and went on the next
morning by a mountainous road S.E., and in four hours
came in sight of the Mediterranean, through an opening

ASIA MINOR.

125

in the mountains, and soon after came to the verge of
a tremendous cliff, nearly perpendicular, in the face of
Avhich there Avas a most perilous descent, at least for horses.
Advantage had been taken of the support of the gnarled
roots of trees, and the masses of fallen rock, to pick out
a path doAvn this precipice. The horses slid doAvn this
rugged path on their hind legs in a sitting posture, en
couraged by the shouts of the Greek, Avho kept up an
incessant vociferous invocation of the assistance of Allah.
On reaching a slight landing place, Ave stopped to rest.
We had followed this road against the advice of all the
natives, and the difficulties of it Ave found had not been
exaggerated : of this Ave had aftenvards more cause to
be convinced. Before reaching Tarsus, hoAvever, Ave were
well repaid by the grandeur of the scenery through Avhich
Ave passed.
From our present resting place the view Avas most
magnificent On the right, the Gioksoo burst from a bold
gorge in the mountains, flanked by precipitous cliffs, and
Avound — a broad blue vein — through the valley at our feet,
bordered by villages surrounded Avith trees and cultivation.
The mountains Avhich rise all around are richly Avooded
Avith firs of various tints, amongst Avhich the pale green
of a species of larch gives a relieving light to the darker
features of the view. Continuing our descent, Ave plunged
into a Avood of Avild pomegranate, olive and other trees.
The pomegranate groAvs here to a large size. We rode
under the boughs, Avhich overshadoAved us Avith a canopy
of verdure. We folloAved the valley of the river, through
the most beautiful and ever-changing mountain scenery,
and fell in with a party of migrating Turcomans. They
told us that the road Avas quite impassable after dark,
and that we should have to camp out. They had a string
of camels, carrying all their property, their Avomen and
children accompanying them ; and as we were unprovided
with provisions, Ave thought it best to pass the night in
the vicinity of their camping place. The banks of the
river soon became very precipitous, the path Avinding over

126 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
the swell of the hills that confined its bed; and the
Turcomans, toAvards evening, having pitched on a con
venient retired spot for camping, we also dismounted and
made arrangements for passing the night.
The place chosen for our bivouac Avas a ravine, backed
by impending rocks and shrubs, and surrounded by trees ;
a brawling rivulet passing by tumbled doAvn the little glen
to join the river which flowed round the foot of a stupen
dous mountain pile, Avhich rose in gloomy grandeur in
front of us.
We tethered our horses in the grassy hollows, and
collected a pile of fireAVOod from the large branches of
the prostrate . fir trees Avhich lay around. We procured
some barley for our horses, and a little black bread, a few
eggs, and some dried figs from the Turcomans : they could
not give us a tent, as they Avere all packed in loads for
travelling, but we did not feel the want of it, as the
temperature Avas delightful in this romantic situation, and
at such times we lose all sense of discomfort, in the mere
intense enjoyment of existence. A blazing fire in the
middle of the glen cast a ruddy glow on the draped forms
of the Yurooks, and flickered on the bold outlines of rock .
and woodland, partially revealing the more retired objects
from the surrounding darkness ; Avhilst the complaining
murmurs of the river floated up on the balmy air, that
sighed through the fringed tops of the fir trees : the out
lines of the dark mountains Avere traced against the clear
overarching vault, " And the roof we slept below
Was the broad expanse of blue, where dance
The stars in their vivid glow."
November 6. — We were up Avith the light, and folloAved
the same road along the precipitous margin of the river,
at one time Avinding along the brink of the cliffs, and then
descending to the valley of the stream, and again climbing
up and folloAving narroAv ledges of rock, where a false step
would have plunged us into the immeasurable abyss, which

ASIA MINOR.

127

sometimes Ave nearly overhung, while the cliffs rose in
fearful abruptness on the left of the slippery path. The
scenery is so very magnificent, that any terror or alarm
Avhich might be anticipated in such a locality is entirely
absorbed in the sense of the sublime, Avhich Ave experience
in these glorious and beautiful scenes.
The goats, the only fit frequenters of such paths,
looked up at us with their large yellow eyes, seemingly
in astonishment at our intruding on their haunts. About
half-Avay to Selefkeh, Ave came to a copious spring, which
formerly supplied that place (Seleucia Trachea) with water.
An aqueduct on massive stone arches, which still exist,
crossed the valley and the river at this place, and was
carried along the right bank of the stream, in many places
through excavations in the cliffs that abutted on the
river, and left no other passage for the canal. We stopped
to breakfast at some Turcoman huts. The honesty of the
people, and the consequent security of their property, is
scarcely credible in such a Avild country. In several places
Avhere camps had been, Ave saw heaps of property, merely
covered over Avith black felt, to shelter it from the weather ;
and on enquiry, Avere told that it belonged to the Yurooks
Avho had migrated, but not having sufficient carriage, had
left it there until they could send for it ; and they assured
us that it Avould remain in perfect security till the OAvners
found it convenient to return and remove their goods.
They possess large flocks of sheep. The shepherd never
drives them, but Avalks at the head of the flock, noAV and
then whistling a few notes, "the sheep knoAV his voice,"
and follow him to the pastures, whilst he is employed
either spinning the wool or knitting. The_sheep-are
curiously sheared in cross stripes, leaving ridges between
them. I opine that this is done with the object of taking
the wool as it is required for use.
A feAv miles from the embouchure of the river the
mountains terminate abruptly in a small plain, on which
are the ruins of Seleucia Trachea. The modern village,
which is scattered in mud hovels amongst the ruins, retains

128 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
the name of Selefkeh. This place possesses many very
interesting remains of its former greatness. BeloAV a hand
some bridge over the river are the ruins of a large edifice,
erected on a stone terrace projecting into the bed of the
river, but noAV encumbering its course with a mingled
pile of blocks of heAvn stone, capitals, and broken shafts
and pillars. About the centre of the area of the town
stand some remarkably picturesque remains of a temple
with Corinthian columns, and the circular end wall is
ornamented with handsome arched windows, separated
by columns. Raised aqueducts appear to have traversed
the town in various directions. In the Khan where we
put up, there were a great number of pillars strewn about ;
many had been used to form raised seats in the open air :
three of them being disposed in a quadrangle, of which
the wall formed the fourth side, and the interior filled
with earth : amongst these were some of fine rose-coloured
granite. There is a high mound, crowned with the walls
of a citadel, on the west of the toAvn. This building is
of a more modern date, probably Turkish. South of the
town are the ancient catacombs : these places of sepulture
are always found near the old Greek cities. Those of
Seleucia are very curious : some Ioav rocky hills are entirely
excavated into tombs or sarcophagi, with low facades
one above another, cut out of and undetached from the
solid rock, no block that could be made available remaining
in its natural state : some of these sepulchres have merely
a name sculptured on them.
Near this, on the declivity of the hill or mound, is a
very remarkable Avork of art: this is an oblong vault
sunk in the solid rock, in dimension about 50 feet long
by 25 broad and 25 deep. The sides of this excavation
Avere cut into tall arched recesses, in which on either side
were projecting buttresses or supports throughout the
whole height. These Avere probably for the support of
sarcophagi; although some of them now remained, the
interior area was full of broken stones and rubbish, the
ruins of the fallen roof. The entrance to this vault Avas

ASIA MINOR. I29
by a circular avcII stair sunk in the rock to the level of
the floor, Avhere it Avas connected Avith the vault by a door.
There are doubtless many more objects of interest to an
antiquary among these extensive ruins, Avhich our limited
time Avould not alloAV us to explore.
Returning to the Khan, Ave found that there Avas no
farrier to be procured in the place, Avhich Avas rather a
serious difficulty, as our horses had lost shoes, in the
descent of the Taurus, and the road through Cilicia Avas
described to be extremely rocky. At length, after much
trouble, Ave discovered a man Avho had some horse-shoes in
his possession, and Avho, in consideration of our necessity,
made us pay five times their value ; hoAvever, Ave Avere glad
to obtain them on any terms; and they Avere then put
on in a slovenly manner, and did not promise to last very
long. The Armenian Khanjt had a large collection of
copper coins to dispose of, some of which Avere real, but
of little value. I Avas told at Antioch that they could
be bought by Aveight, they AA-ere so common : those of any
value are suspicious from the number of forgeries : they
are cast in a mould made from a good coin and then
buried, and corroded Avith chemical agents to give them
the appearance of antiquity, and it requires some practice
to detect those that are spurious : the heads of Alexander
Avith the rams' horns are very commonly imitated. Besides
the badness of the roads through Cilicia, we Avere told
that they AA'ere infested with robbers, several parties having
been lately plundered by them. If we had had any choice,
it Avould have been rather too severe an alternative to have
reascended the Taurus. The people of these mountain
districts appear to have inherited the bad name" of~the
Isaurians Avho formerly dAvelt here. HoAvever, Ave set off
on the 7th in good spirits, and determined to brave every
danger, taking an easterly course, with a range of rocky
hills on the left, and an extensive marsh on the right,
beyond Avhich Avas the open sea. The Aveather was de
lightful, the SAvalloAvs sporting about above the reeds :
these Avere the Alpine SAvift seen at Constantinople, Avith

130 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON-
a Avhite belly and black collar : there Avere also a feAv of
the common swallow. The bushes and reeds were covered
with the small tree frog, of a beautiful light green, and
surrounded by flights of large hornets. The Italians make
use of this frog as a weather gauge, keeping them in a
glass basin of water, in the centre of which an upright
stick is fixed : this the frog climbs or descends, according
to the state of the atmosphere.
We soon became convinced of the correctness of our
information respecting the roads : there was no visible
track, but we made our way over polished slabs, and
through rocks and crags piled in horrible confusion. Our
horses' shoes, which had been badly put on, soon gave
way, came off, or were dashed to pieces: and we had to
look forward to twelve hours of the same work, Avhich
could not be done in less than tAvo days. We passed a
village call Japeh on the left, a feAv broken sarcophagi
lying by the roadside ; near Pershendy we saw some tombs
cut in the rock, and a reservoir of Avater. Through this
rocky district the remains of a made road are discoverable
in various places, composed of large irregular slabs, Avhich,
after facts that came under our observation, would prove
to have been laid at a very early date. Turning the horn
of a small bay, and overgrown with luxuriant myrtle
bushes, we found the ruins of a large Greek toAvn. The
rocky hills Avere covered Avith the remains of temples,
aqueducts, and other buildings, which we rambled over
and explored, but could not discover a single inscription,
and from the rocky nature of the locality the buildings
were much crowded, and Ave Avere forced to Avork our Avay
through thickets of myrtle by which they were overrun.
This is the site of Pecile Petra ; but as there were no
inhabitants, we could not learn its modern name. The
sea stretched away in rippling calmness on our right, and
Ave Avent on by the same desperate craggy path over a
succession of rocky headlands, forming small bays. The
only living thing visible was the large grey kingfisher,
sitting motionless on the points of rock, or hovering watch-

ASIA MINOR. 13!
ful over the sunny deep. In seven hours we reached Ayash,
the ruins of the ancient Corycus. Here we found two or
three temporary tents, but no shelter except amongst the
ruins, and accordingly took possession of a large deep
vault, in which Ave lighted a fire to expel the damp. The
people we found here Avere a wild-looking set ; they called
themselves Turcomans, but had more the appearance of
Syrian mountaineers. They collected round us in the
evening, and Avere much amused and astonished at our
percussion guns, lucifer matches, etc., and I have no doubt
that this exhibition contributed in some measure to our
safety, by impressing them Avith an idea of our power.
It appears that Ave Avere among suspicious characters, of
Avhich Ave were unconscious till the next day, Avhen, on
meeting a man, apparently a courier, of whom Ave enquired
if the road Avas safe, or any marauders to be apprehended,
he told us the road Avas all clear to Tarsus, and that we'
had already passed the dangerous part. On hearing that
we had slept the night before at Ayash with these people,
he said, " If that is the case, you have nothing more to fear,
and you have been fortunate in escaping them, as they
are the very men that are so much dreaded on this road."
The vault being oppressive, I slept outside; but neither of us
took any precaution in Avatching or othenvise, and we might
easily have been disposed of had not the eye of Providence
Avatched for our protection. In the morning Ave Avalked over
the ruins : there Avere the remains of an extensive castle,
built of stone, on the shore : another, built on a rock a mile
at sea, forms a picturesque object : these Avere Saracenic.
As usual, there Avere numerous tombs and excavations in the
rocks: on one scarp Avas cut in relief a rude full-length figure
of a man with a sword by his side. There were steps cut
in the stone, ascending to the various chambers. The
following inscription Avas on the side of a low facade :
+HP06ION
NONNOYM6CCIKAIMATIOTJPS +

132 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
The next label is taken from the side of a sarcophagus.
isi  ~n/i
ACT6PIOY KAAAICTOY
^ N
Further to the eastAvard stood the ruins of a large church
of the same description as those of Lystra, but of superior
workmanship. The plain Maltese cross was the only
sculpture discoverable. It is difficult to imagine Avhat
could have induced a people to build large tOAvns in such
barren and desolate situations, without an acre of pasture
or arable land redeemable from the surrounding rocks,
and only approachable by a break-neck road, with no
water, but what was brought from a great distance by
aqueducts. They must have chosen these sites for security,
trusting for support either to piracy or commerce.
November 8. — Our course traversed the same rocky coast
line, which Avas most severe for the poor horses. They
Avere continually locking their hoofs in the fissures, or
between the large blocks, and having lost their shoes, it
is wonderful hoAv we got through this stony region. We
were rewarded to-day by the sight of a magnificent
aqueduct, which crosses all the valleys to the vicinity of
Lamas, from Avhence it formerly conducted the water to
supply Eleusa, Corycus, and Pecile Petra. This aqueduct
is a splendid remnant of Grecian antiquity, and although
Avithin fifty miles of Tarsus, the Europeans at that place
were not aAvare of its existence. Across one valley there
were two ranges of arches, the one above the other— the
upper consisting of fourteen, and the lower of nine or
ten ; several in the centre of the latter having fallen or
been carried away by the descent of the winter torrents.
It was built of stone-masonry and coated with cement,
now mostly scaled off; this canal could be traced in
many places leading over the hills. After leaving Ayash,
we passed several large ruined buildings, and amongst
others one extensive ruin, through which the paved road,

ASIA MINOR.

133

before mentioned, runs in its Avhole extent, with a high
Avail rising on the left, and emerges through the remains
of an arched gateAvay. This shoAvs it to be of the same
date as the buildings : it is in good preservation and Avell
paved. The Avails are built of hewn stone, closely fitted,
with very little cement Continuing our route, we came
to Eleusa. This place seems to have been only a place
of sepulture, as there is no appearance of any toAvn having
existed in the vicinity. The rocks over a large area have
been cut into sarcophagi, ornamented with sculptures and
wreaths : one Avas very elegant, Avith an eagle trampling
a serpent, and supporting the ends of tAvo wreaths or
festoons, in the curve of Avhich Avere tAvo lions, the corners
supported by small statues.
Some of these tombs Avere undetached from the rock,
others raised on a platform Avith steps; sometimes two
were placed side by side, and some had an arch of solid
masonry built over them. They were all furnished with
covers, which had been either forced aside or thrOAvn down,
and the tombs had been explored by successive plunderers
in hopes of finding treasure ; they measured between
eight and nine feet in length. There were also here
several handsome mausoleums of hewn stone, square, with
a pointed pediment and sloped roof, ornamented with

Greek Tombs, Cilicia.

lions' heads and dentils, and supported at the angles by
pillars. The interiors AA'ere furnished Avith troughs and

134 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
shelves, and in some of the tombs the Turcoman shepherds
had taken up their abode. The women in their filthy
dresses Avere spinning by the narrow doorways, and the
children rolling about on the raised platforms on which
they were built, unconscious that they were occupying the
dwellings of the dead. The sarcophagi here, as well as
the excavated tombs Ave passed in other parts of Asia
Minor, are cut out of sandstone rock. I afterwards heard
from persons resident in the Levant that some of these
tombs, which had been discovered untouched in the north
of Syria, on being opened, Avere found to contain nothing
but alternate layers of earth and ashes, or else were entirely
filled up with earth, with the exception of a small earthen
ware urn containing the ashes of the dead at the head of
the tomb. In taking so much trouble to provide a full-
sized coffin, the ancients must have believed that an
invisible spirit used it for a habitation, or that the body,
would be restored from its ashes for judgment We at
length arrived at the village of Lamas, on an eminence
on the right bank of a rapid stream. A wide marsh
extends on the left, cultivated with rice and pumpkins.
The village was nearly deserted, but possessed a good
reception house of two stories, in which we put up and
dined on some wild foAvl Ave had killed. This Avas formerly
the capital of the province or district of Lamotis, but at
' present exhibits no remains of antiquity.
November p. — We crossed the stream by a bridge, and
on the other side entered on an entirely different and fertile
soil, this brook appearing to be the limit of the appropriately
named " Rugged Cilicia." We now traversed shrubberies
of myrtle, covered with blossom, by a greatly improved
road, passing several streams from the Taurus, the moun
tains of Syria rising across the sea in the south-east.
Eight miles from Lamas there Avas, till very lately, a
quarantine, this being the boundary between the dominions
of the Sultan and Mohammed Ali ; this interruption no
longer exists. After passing the frontier, Ave met a cafila
of Yurooks, and on inquiring whence they came, we

ASIA MINOR.

135

learned that they had migrated across the frontier to try
the mild rule of Ibrahim Pacha, the Governor of Syria ;
but finding they Avere more severely squeezed than by
their Turkish masters, they were on their return to their
old haunts.
^ We passed several castles in ruins on either side of the
road. In the marshes Ave saw some natives making use
of a curious deception for shooting Avater-fowl. They
carried a large cloth spread on a cross-stick before them,
in the middle of Avhich Avas a small hole for the purpose
of descrying the game, Avhich were not alarmed by its
appearance : Avhen near enough, the apparatus was stuck
into the ground, and the birds fired on from behind it.
Beyond this the country Avas barren, and Ave arrived at
Mezetlu in nine hours. This is a large village under the
Egyptian Government; we found good quarters, and the
people loud in their complaints of the amount of taxes
drawn from them. Early in the morning Ave went down
to the sea-side, to visit the ruins of Soli or Pompeopolis.
Of this large place, from the gate of which to the harbour
formerly extended an avenue of 200 columns, and where
Alexander celebrated games in honour of his subjugation
of Asia Minor and his recovery after bathing in the
Cydnus, little noAV remains, but forty-five of these
Corinthian pillars, the shafts of Avhich measure ten feet
in circumference, rearing their heads above the myrtle
and tangled bruslvwood, Avith Avhich the ruins are over-
groAvn. To the east of these are the remains of an
amphitheatre, fast disappearing. There are also several
buildings of masonry, similar to those over the sarcophagi
at Eleusa.
It Avould appear that the sea has retreated from this
coast, for the ruins of the stone quays at the extremity
of the piazza are noAV far above high water, with fields
and brushwood extending between them and the sea.
After examining these ruins, we made a three hours'
march to Mersin, the sea-port for the trade :>f Tarsus,
Avhich is eighteen or twenty miles inland. The principal

136 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
article of commerce of this country is cotton, for
which four small vessels Avere Avaiting, anchored in the
bay. From the coast the road turned nearly N.E. to
Tarsus. About two miles before reaching the town, Ave
passed, an old Turk and his Avife, who had dismounted
by the road-side, aAvaiting the dark to enter the place, to
avoid the public gaze : for this he had not to wait long,
for we had not gone another mile before it fell suddenly
dark, and Ave entered Tarsus in one of the most tremendous
thunderstorms I ever experienced. The rain came doAvn
in masses, and in a feAv minutes the roads were like mill
sluices, and we only kept the track by the glare of the
sheets of lightning that streamed and hissed around us,
causing our horses to stand and tremble with terror, Avhilst
overhead, at intervals, " Out-burst a thunder-peal of such magnificence,
The howling storm seemed silence."
We waded through the flooded streets to the house of the
English Consul, who, we found, had been dead about three
months, and had not been replaced. We then made our
way to the French Consulate, and were hospitably received
by the Consul, Mons. Gillet, in Avhose house we remained
for two days.
Tarsus or Tersoos is noAV rather a Avell-built Turkish
toAvn, with little evidence of antiquity. It is subject to fatal
fevers, feAv Europeans being able to survive the malignity
of the climate. The celebrated Cydnus Aoavs by it, form
ing a cascade close to the toAvn, where it falls over a
cliff of conglomerate of no great height. At this season
the stream is much diminished, but after the Avinter rains,
I have no doubt it forms a pretty object. I saw a great
deal of tesselated pavement on the sides of the road out
side the toAvn. The environs are wooded Avith fine trees,
and the orange groAvs here to great perfection. But the
most extraordinary object of curiosity, and for the purpose
or utility of which no probable hypothesis has been started,
is a large building of solid masonry, composed of two square

ASIA MINOR.

»37

masses surrounded by a Avail of the same, the Avhole being
about 2CO feet in length, and 20 feet in height.

A AVolls 33 feet broad. 30 high.

B 80 feet square.

This fabric is entirely composed of round stones and mortar,
Avhich has become hardened by age to the solidity of free
stone. Mr. Gillet, under the impression that these masses
contained sarcophagi, endeavoured to cut through one,
Avhich Avas a Avork of some labour, from the compactness
of the material, as it resisted gunpoAvder, the bores going
off like cannon, and after reaching the centre Avithout success,
he removed his operations to the side at (a), sinking doAvn-
wards, after excavating to the centre; but after digging
sixteen feet the Avorkmen arrived at Avater. If these build
ings contain coffins, they Avould probably be laid across
at either end, as marked, so that penetrating the centre of
the mass Avould leave them on either side and give no result
We knoAV that the tomb of the Emperor Julian ought to be
found at Tarsus, his body having been brought-there for
interment by his successor Jovian from the banks of the
Tigris, south of Samarra, Avhere he died ; and supposing this
to be a burying-place, it Avould only be that of a person of
equal consequence, seeing the greatness of the work; but
if these Avails are solid, and are not the foundation of some
Saracenic structure, I Avould hazard a conjecture that the
interior masses, formerly coated Avith stone;- served as

138 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
pedestals to colossal idols of the Eastern Mythology under
the Assyrian Empire.
The people of Tarsus speak a corrupt dialect of Arabic,
and begin to assume the Arab physiognomy. From its
situation at the foot of the grand pass into lesser Asia
called the Keulek boghas or Cilician gates, Tarsus must
ahvays have been a place of importance or " no mean city."
It is well supplied with Avater, and the extensive gardens
abound in a variety of fruit trees ; but the environs being
neglected, the surrounding country is overgroAvn Avith rank
vegetation. Large marshes have formed, and the place has
become remarkably unhealthy, and for European constitu
tions quite uninhabitable. The pass of the Taurus is fortified,
and held by the Egyptian troops under Ibrahim Pacha, this
being the limit of the usurped dominion of Mohammed Ali.
Our road to India passing the north of Syria, we propose
making a diversion through that country and Palestine,
and, if possible, crossing the Palmyrene wilderness to
Bagdad.

139

CHAPTER VII.
Syria.
It is not easy to define the northern limits of Syria, but
it is usually counted to extend to the pass of the Taurus,
called the Cilician Gates, and thus far it is noAV held by
the army of Mohammed Ali under Ibrahim Pacha, Avhose
advanced guard is betAveen Tersoos and Adana. The
difference in passing from one jurisdiction to the other
is not apparent and travellers are unmolested and treated
Avith equal consideration.
After visiting the falls of the Cydnus, Ave slept at
the house of Mr. William Barker, Avho accompanied us
the next morning (13th) part of the way to Adana,
GoshaAvk on fist, to shoAv us some falconry. We crossed
the Aleian plain, the Taurus rising on the left, the
higher parts croAvned Avith snoAv. The Francolin (Perdix
francolinus), a handsome game bird, the upper part of
the plumage being spotted Avith round AA'hite spots on
a black ground, is abundant here, and is found in all
the intermediate warm districts betAveen this and India,
Avhere it is knoAvn by the name of the " black partridge."
The GoshaAvk is a short-Avinged hawk of heavy flight ; it
never takes its quarry at the first attempt, but alights on
the bush Avhere the partridge has sheltered, from which
neither Avill move till the game is once more sprung, Avhen,
either from the haAvk being more excited, or the partridge
Aveaker from fear, it is taken at the second flight.
Adana is a good-sized toAvn, and has a pretty appearance
from the east, Avith the river Syhoon or Sarus floAving by it
through scattered palms, and backed by the bold sweeps

140 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
of the Taurus, covered Avith snoAV. In the plain was
the camp of Ibrahim Pacha's army, which is strong
in artillery, keeping watch on the Turkish frontier. The
Egyptian soldiers have a much neater appearance than the
Turkish; instead of the slovenly European dress, their
uniform is only a modification of the Eastern costume of
full trousers to the knee, continued Avith light leggings to
the foot, Avith a dark cloth or linen jacket and red cap.
They are armed with sword, musket arid bayonet. They
are better-made men than the Turks ; but, owing to the
, great mortality from bad and scanty food and exposure, the
ranks have been filled up by a large proportion of mere
boys, who are torn from their homes and families to gratify
the Pacha's love of playing at soldiers, many being brought
from the warm plains of Egypt, to brave the bitter cold of
Syrian winters. At Antioch, Avhere the troops amounted
to upAvards of 7000, the mortality among them was eight
per day on an average at this time : more than 40 per cent.
It Avas the sickly season, so I do not suppose that it is ahvays
in the same proportion ; but the medical practitioners in the
Pacha's service assured us that a large majority died of
nostalgia or home sickness. In Syria the villages are
swept of their inhabitants to supply recruits for the army ;
and only women and a few old men are left, who are
compelled to cultivate sufficient grain round their ruined
villages to supply the wants of the troops. It Avas even
expected that the Christian population Avould have been
included in the conscription.
We lodged Avith Signor Nani and party, Italian instruc
tors, attached to the troops : they are well paid, but always
from twelve to twenty months in arrear, to prevent their
leaving the service at their option ; so they are compelled
to run in debt. We had marched nine hours to Adana,
and the next day Ave made seven hours to Messis, a village
built on the ruins of a larger place on the top of a mound,
on the right bank of the Pyramus. The Sheik of this
place Avas rather unaccommodating, and we had some
difficulty in procuring shelter, and were at length obliged

SYRIA.

141

to be satisfied with a small stable, Avhich Ave shared Avith
our horses, at the risk of being trampled on during the
night. The plain Ave passed Avas flat, Avith a few palms
scattered over it, and abounding in gazelles, that were
grazing in herds on either side of our path. In the
morning Ave crossed the Pyramus by a long bridge, and
passed a range of Ioav mountains, Avhich brought us in
six hours to Kurtolak. Here Avere the remains of a
substantial khan and an old mosque, Avith a feAv huts
occupied by soldiers. We remained here till twelve at
night, and then continued our march round the head of
the bay of Scanderoon, and at an early hour the next
morning Ave crossed the Pinarus, Avhich still Aoavs quietly
through the field Avhere the fate of Asia Avas decided ; and
it is difficult to conceive a more inconvenient situation for
marshalling the vast hosts of Darius and Alexander than
the battle plain of Issus, Avhere the mountains run down
toAvards the coast, leaving an irregular strip between them
and the sea ; this strip gradually narrows, till before
coming to Bayas there is only a precipitous path wind
ing over the hills that bound the coast, and this road noAV
passes under a tall stone arch of some antiquity. There
are also some ruined Avails on the cliffs, on the right of
the road.
At Bayas there is an old Saracen castle, with its
mosque and khan, and an arched stone bazaar, which is
very broad, but nearly deserted, and Ave had difficulty in
procuring barley for our horses. This place was some time
back the stronghold of an independent freebooter, called
Kutchuk Ali, AA-hose deeds are still remembered : he com
manded all the tribes in the neighbouring mduritainsV and
levied contributions on passengers. When the Dutch
traded to Aleppo, their Consul, Avho Avas on his way to
that place, Avas seized by this bandit and kept in prison
for a long period to extort a ransom. The spot Avas well
chosen for the haunt of a robber chief, commanding as
it did the Syrian gates ; and in case of siege, he had a
retreat to the mountains.

142 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
Leaving Bayas at midday of the 16th, we passed a
bridge over a mountain stream close to the gates, and
crossed a small plain covered Avith large myrtle bushes,
the picturesque verdant slopes of Mount Amanus rising
on the left Nearer to Alexandretta extensive morasses
spread out to the foot of the mountains, to Avhich lines
of wild geese and ducks were Avinging their evening flight.
The tOAvn had a pretty appearance across the calm bay,
gloAving in a red sunset, with two or three tall palms
towering above it in the declining light. We alighted at
the house of the Austrian Consul, Signor Jonas, the British
Consul being absent.
The present Alexandretta, or Scanderoon, is now merely
a village. It was formerly the port of Aleppo, when the
commerce of this part of the Levant was in the hands
of the Company of Aleppo Merchants : the high Avails
of their ruined factory are now the principal object in
the village. The climate exceeds in insalubrity that of
Tersoos, from the same cause, viz. the marshy nature
of the surrounding country. Its deadly nature has
always been notorious, even when a place of more
importance, for on reference to the old registers of cor
respondence of the merchants of Aleppo, who appointed
their own consuls, it appears that an application Avas made
nearly every three months by their factors at the port for
the appointment of a new Consul, in consequence of the
former having fallen a victim to the fever of the country.
Alexandretta is noAV of so little consequence that it is
scarcely necessary to maintain a consulate in such an
unhealthy locality, Avhile places of more importance, as
Tripoli, Acre, Jaffa and others, have merely native agents,
entrusted with our national interests.
We were detained the 17th by rain, but left early on the
morning of the 18th, ascending the steep pass of Beilan
over Mount Amanus, the Avind bloAving half a gale ; this
wind must have been quite local, either folloAving the
north-western side of Mount Arsus from the south-west,
or descending the mountains vertically from the upper

SYRIA.

'43

strata of the atmosphere ; for as soon as we had turned
the ridge of the mountain to the opposite descent, it was
quite and suddenly calm.
At the summit of this pass, we came on the large village
of Bylan, romantically situated in a basin surrounded by
peaks and crags, from Avhich streams of Avater Avere rushing
doAvn through the streets. There are numerous aqueducts
carried across the ravines on arches to conduct the Avater
to the different mills and baths, Avhile the waste water
precipitates itself from ledge to ledge, finding its Avay down
the ravine which intersects the place. From the height of
the Alma Dagh you look doAvn on the plains of Syria, a
broad marshy lake lying to the east and the Orontes
Avinding by the toAvn of Antioch, backed by the Anzeiry
mountains. We descended the mountain by a rapid declivity, and
crossing the plain, entered Antakia at dusk by a bridge
over the river. The minarets of the mosques rose above
the trees, glittering Avith lamps in honour of a Moham
medan festival, and the plaintive moaning of the large
water-Avheels, Avhich supply the toAvn from the river, added
by their melancholy sound to the novelty of the sensations
I experienced on approaching this celebrated locality.
We found a hospitable reception at the house of our
native consular agent, Georgio Adeeb. The modern An
takia is a large Turkish town, Avith long streets of shops.
The houses are mean, and the toAvn extremely dirty, from
the accumulation of mud in the kennels, in consequence
of Avhich intermittent fever is very prevalent, and the
people are Avishing for rain to cleanse the town from filth
and sickness at the same time. The place is crowded with
soldiers, Avho, as before mentioned, suffer much from the
unhealthy season.
Ibrahim Pacha has built a handsome large barrack here,
the materials for Avhich Avere taken from the fine old
Avails of Antioch, a most splendid remnant of antiquity,
Avhich this Egyptian destroyer has partly pulled down for
the purpose. The masonry, hoAvever, was so compact, that

144 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
he Avas compelled to blast the Avail with gunpoAvder, and
then the Avorkmen being unable to detach the stone from
the cement, the masses Avere heAvn into blocks as they were,
and used in the building. These walls run up and crown
the heights behind the town, crossing ravines, and, de
scending the other side, enclosing double the area occupied
by the modern toAvn. The eastern entrance is through
the massive ancient gateAvay. The banks of the Orontes
are lined with extensive gardens and orchards of fruit
trees, irrigated from the river, and affording a fine cover
for woodcock, which arrive here in great numbers about
the 1st of December. The Persian wheels used on the
river banks to supply the baths and houses are very high,
and made to work with the force of the current, paddles
being attached to the outer circumference on which the
stream acts, its power being increased by the base of the
wall built in the river, and on Avhich the axle rests,
forming a canal for the concentration of its force. The
Avheel itself is made hollow, and divided into compartments
or boxes with an opening at one of their upper angles.
These fill on their immersion, and empty themselves on
turning over at the top into a trough, from whence the
Avater is conveyed by canals or pipes to its destination.
In the gardens the wheels are turned by oxen, the water
being raised from canals cut from the river.
Everything here is sold by weight : Avood, oils, grain, and
even in a shop, if you have occasion for an ivory comb,
it is weighed and delivered to you at so much per ounce.
Having been kindly furnished Avith letters by Mr. W.
Barker, of Tersoos, we made an excursion to his father's
residence at the mouth of the Orontes, near Suadea. We
rode doAvn the valley, which is very fertile and full of
mulberry plantations, and arrived in the evening at Mr.
Barker's villa, Avhere we experienced a most friendly and
cordial welcome from himself and his amiable family.
Mr. Barker, who was formerly Consul-General in Egypt,
has resided for upwards of twenty years, since his retirement,
on his estates in this beautiful vale, where he has occupied

SYRIA.

145

his time Avith scientific and horticultural pursuits, and sur
rounded himself Avith a paradise of fruits and flowers of all
countries, Avhich equally thrive in this fine climate. The
orange and the citron groAV beside the China medlar, or
loquat, peaches, and the fruits of Northern climes, and all
arrive at the same perfection.
The situation of this spot is very picturesque, being near
the ruins of the old port of Seleucia Pieria (from whence
St. Paul sailed on his first mission to the Gentiles), and
backed by a spur of Amanus ; whilst in front rises the high
conical peak of Mount Casius, reflected in the blue Avaters
of the bay. This peak is called by the Arabs Jibel Akraa,
" The bald mountain." There are feAv remains of the
ancient city, except some fragments of Hellenic masonry,
and the port, Avhich is noAV far above the sea-level, and
partly occupied by a marsh, with some massive ruins of
jetties or piers Avhich run out into the sea. This is
an additional evidence of the fact remarked at Pompeo
polis that the sea has receded from this coast. North
of the ruins is an extraordinary Roman work, consist
ing of a canal sunk in the rock to the depth of thirty
feet, and extending a quarter of a mile, for the purpose of
conducting a mountain torrent into the sea, Avhich Avould
othenvise have filled the port Avith debris and alluvium. At
the upper end of this canal is a massive Avail of large stones,
Avhich conducted the Avater into the tunnel as it descended
from the heights.
In the same direction (north) are the catacombs of the
city, consisting of a number of tombs excavated in some
high cliffs, on some of Avhich are defaced inscriptions.
There is one large arched columbarium over "a "central
tomb Avith troughs at the sides for others.
November 22. — We made an excursion Avith our host
to one of his estates, about five hours' ride in the mountains,
AA-here he has a summer villa. The village is called Beityass,
and is inhabited entirely by Armenian Christians. From
this beautiful spot you look doAvn on the plain of Antioch,
Avhile precipitous naked crags rise up in the foreground,
VOL. 1. 10

I46 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
and overhead the grapes hang from the trellises in tempting
luxuriance, bedeAved by the mist of a fountain Avhich casts
its sparkling flakes into the sunshine. The lower valleys
and sides of the mountains are clothed with myrtle trees
covered Avith snowy blossoms. The ravines are frequented
by panthers as formerly, " Look from the top of Amana,
from the top of Shenir and Hermon, from the lions' dens,
from the mountains of the leopards." The lions noAV found
in the valley of the Tigris must have formerly been common
here, but so many panthers were taken from Cilicia to
supply the Roman games that Cicero complains of their
rarity in his time.
About ten minutes' walk from the house is a wild
romantic glen, overshadowed by thick spreading trees,
down which Aoav numerous streams gushing through
and over the rocks hung with water plants and creepers.
This spot was supposed by a late author to be the site
of Daphne, and not without some reason, as it answers
to the descriptions of history much more nearly thaq
the spot assigned to it on the opposite mountain, on
the left bank of the Orontes. We are informed that the
temple of Apollo at Daphne was embowered in groves of
Cyprus and laurel x to the exclusion of the sun's rays : noAV
the present situation given to Daphne is remarkable for
being entirely bare of trees on the open side of the mountain,
and has no ruins standing to fix its locality. The temple
Avas burnt in the time of Julian, about 362 A.D. There
is an interesting ruin here Avhich gives some probability
to the above-noticed hypothesis. This is apparently the
remains of a church of the era of the Christian emperors :
but on examination it is evident that this has been built
of the materials of a former and more ancient temple,
parts of which, consisting of walls and broken arches,
of an entirely different and superior style of architecture,
still survive the fall of the two successive superstructures.
The ground around is also strewn with mixed ruins.
1 This may probably mean the Bay tree, as the laurel is not found in this
country.

SYRIA. I47
Close to the base of this building is a copious spring
of the purest Avater, issuing from a deep artificial tunnel
sunk in the rock, and strongly arched over. The principal
cultivation of these districts is silk, the greater part of
the land being laid out in mulberry plantations. Mr.
Barker has conferred a great benefit on the peasantry by
importing supplies of the silk-Avorms' eggs from Piedmont,
from time to time, as the indigenous breed is found to
deteriorate and become of little value. The inhabitants,
with few exceptions, are Armenians, and a hardy race of
peasantry. Mr. Barker instanced a case of a Avoman
going down to the river Avith her Avashing, and being
confined, and bringing home her baby on the top of the
clothes on her head.
We visited the ruins of a church about twelve miles off,
on the opposite mountain, which had been dedicated to
Simon Stylites. In the centre of the ruins stand the
remains of the pillar, on the top of which this man imagined
he could atone for his OAvn sins : the pedestal and a portion
of the pillar in one block is undetached from the rock of
Avhich it forms a part. The first is nine feet square and
the pillar six feet in diameter, so I have no doubt, if he
did not exceed the common stature, that he had plenty
of room to sleep at his ease. The ruins of the church
consist of massive blocks of hewn stone, and Avould appear
to have been overthrown by one of the earthquakes Avhich
are so common in this country. We Avere extremely
fortunate in having fine Aveather during our stay in this
lovely valley. On account of the near approach of the
rainy season, sufficient vapours Avere accumulated to
produce the most glorious sunsets, Avhich heightened the
beauty of the scenery, tinting the broad expanse and the
mountain peaks Avith gold, purple and crimson.
At this late season the trees Avere clothed Avith verdure,
and the fragrant myrtles in full bloom, and growing in
the Avildest exuberance. Wandering amidst these scenes
seemed like the realization of a poet's dream, and this,
Avith delightful society, open-hearted kindness, and intei-

148 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
lectual enjoyment, combined to form one of the brightest
spots on the dark stream of my Avandering existence, and
to Avhich I shall ever look back Avith reneAved pleasure.
" I may not see thee more ; yet aftertimes
Will rise upon my weary path thy scenes
Of trancing loveliness ; thy bowering vines,
And glens of leafy shade ; whose verdant screens,
Echo the wild bee's hum, and warbled note
Waft in cadence low, from the bulbul's heav'n-tuned throat
And when oppress'd by thirst the lurid air
Mocks suffering with show of succour near,
Stamping the mirage with the landscape fair
Amidst the phantoms of the desert drear ;—
Thy diamond streams on my parched eye will flash,
And memory's tortured ear, hear thy bright waters dash."
November 26. — We reluctantly left Suadea, to resume
our pilgrimage. We were accompanied by Mr. Barker,
who was going to Antakia; he conducted us back by a
different and much more interesting route by the banks
of the Orontes, the views on which are very picturesque
as it Avinds its way to the sea through the opening
mountains. We crossed the river in a boat, and stopped
to take some refreshment at a country-house belonging
to the Mutselim of Antioch, well situated for enjoying the
beauties of the surrounding scenery. In this valley I first
saw the Cornubia tree, or Karub ; this tree, Avith its dark
green foliage, resembles the evergreen oak ; it bears a
broad pod, full of saccharine matter, which when dry
forms a nutritious condiment ; it is called St John's
bread,1 and forms a large article of trade, being sold in
all the shops in Turkey and Syria. There is a great
variety of the oak in the mountains of Amanus, but they
do not groAv to any size, and it would be Avorth the ex
periment to transplant some of these to more northern
climates. The peasants in these hills 'use a small rock
plant, which grows on their cliffs, as a substitute for
1 It is called Locusta, and is reputed to be the locust on which St. John fed.
I was often reduced to this myself when unable to procure other food, carrying
it in my saddle-bags. The true locust is also an article of food in these Eastern
countries, but only comes at uncertain times.

SYRIA.

149

quinine in cases of intermittent fever; it is a creeping
plant of a dusty-Avhite appearance, possessing a fine
aromatic bitter, and has been used Avith great success.
Continuing our route, we came to the spot which has
been fixed on as the site of Daphne. Here a great
number of copious springs gush from the declivity of a
rocky hill ; these have been conducted by small canals
to a number of water-mills, which supply Antioch with
flour, and then, released from their work, rush down in
innumerable shoots and miniature falls, entering a gully
that conducts their free Avaters to the Orontes. We were
shown a raised ground-plan of a building, said to be that
of the temple, and a man brought us a small marble
head of a lion, Avhich he stated he had found here.
But Avhere are the groves so celebrated? If they were
destroyed wilfully, some few Avould have escaped to tell
the tale, or others would have sprung from the seed or
roots of their precursors ; but noAV not a tree spreads its
shade to shelter the Avayfarer or guide the antiquary.
Near the toAvn we passed the large massive barracks
built from the Avails of Antioch. This, hoAvever, is in
capable of holding all the troops collected here, and
Avhich are daily arriving ; and their miserable encamp
ments cover all the open spots round the town, the
officers alone having small tents, and the men's shelter
consisting of cloths or felts supported on staves or poles.
When the Avorkmen were excavating the Avails, they
discovered a marble statue or bust, Avith a Latin inscription
on the pilaster, Avhich formed the continuation of the bust.
This is noAV in the possession of Mr. E. Barker, to whom
Ibrahim Pacha, Avho was on the spot at the time, presented
it, remarking that " Ave English set a value on these things."
The head of this statue is well executed and very perfect,
Avith large Roman features and very little hair. The
vaunting inscription informs us that this was "A man of
men, Avhose celebrity Avas so great that it was not necessary
to mention his name for him to be knoAvn," etc. So much
for fame !

150 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
We marched from Antakia on the 29th, through the
ruins of the old gates, the mountains rising in rocky crags
on the right. These are full of excavations, amongst
which my companion discovered a colossal sphinx, though
much effaced.
We had a pleasant fellow-traveller in a French officer
in the Pacha's service, a nephew of Arago, the French
savant. Travelling easterly over the plains we came to
Kerim, at the foot of the mountains, Avhich form the high
land on Avhich Aleppo is situated. Kerim is an artificial
mound coated with stone, on the top of which are the
ruins of a Saracen fortress : it is completely commanded
by the adjacent hills, in a gorge of Avhich it lies. We
found here only ruined houses, and one or two peasants,
who remained for the sake of the water-mills, of which
there were several here. They informed us that the people
had all left for a village on the top of the hills, where they
remained the Avinter. There Avas abundance of water here
in springs, and at the foot of the mound was a warm
spring, with a temperature of 8o°. It took us an hour
to climb to the top of the mountain, by a precipitous
breakneck road, guided by one of the millers. Here Ave
found a large village, apparently in a prosperous state
and full of people ; a rather extraordinary circumstance
in this country under its present rulers !
Arago's Egyptian uniform insured us good accommoda
tion in the Sheik's house, Avhere we made ourselves at
home, although Ave had to keep up a blood feud Avith the
fleas, who pleaded numbers and the right of prior occupa
tion. From here there are two roads to Aleppo, one
direct, but very bad, continuing across these hills; the
other, the road Ave had left in the plain the previous
evening, is longer, but not so rugged. Preferring the
latter, Ave descended by the way Ave came, and resumed
our journey through the plains, gradually ascending as
we entered the hills. These hills have a brown barren
appearance, and many of them are crowned Avith ugly
ruins of walls and doorways ; in the gorges were patches

SYRIA

151

of trees, Avhich relieve the sterility of the country. We
reached Dana, a large village Avith some cultivation, in
six hours, Avhere Ave ought to have stopped ; but having
rested and refreshed our horses, we pushed on for Tukaat,
five hours further. This place (also called Engeel, from
its abounding in figs) we reached at nightfall by bad and
rocky roads. We entered the streets of this large village
to find rest after our long march, -but all Avas silent ; Ave
explored some of the houses by the receding twilight, but
they presented nothing but bare walls. The village was
abandoned. The silence of the desert is grand and
elevating, the silence of the grave in the solitary cemetery
is impressive, but the silence of the deserted dwellings of
man is gloomy and painful. A stray cow, Avhich had
sought shelter in the village, Avas a relief to the feeling
of desolation Avhich pervaded the place, and we at once
determined to go on in search of more comfortable
quarters. The night was very dark, and the road rocky.
and we had some difficulty in keeping the track ; we kept
a sharp look-out for distant lights, and a sharp ear for
the barking of some shepherd's dog, by means of which
to find a refuge for the night : several times we made
long excursions in pursuit of lights Avhich proved to be
some rising star ; or the imaginary barking of dogs, which
Avas only the pulsation of our OAvn overstrained hearing :
in these cases, as it Avas not safe to abandon the track,
which Ave should never have recovered, one of the party
was detached on these wild-goose chases, Avhile the rest
remained on the spot till his return, Avhich was guided
by the note of a bugle horn, Avhich Ave blew at intervals,
Avhen Ave again resumed our weary march. At-length*
after several hours, Ave heard the baying of dogs : this
time Ave Avere certain, and Ave struck off the road in the
direction of the Avelcome sound, sometimes lost by an
intervening hill, and again rising full on the night air, on
surmounting the obstacle, until it conducted us to a large
ruined village on a rising ground. We first came to some
large sheep folds guarded by the dogs that had betrayed

152 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
their retreat to us; and Avhile we interrogated the shepherd,
we could see a number of dark figures against the clear
western sky making their escape in different directions.
We gave chase, but should probably not have succeeded
in obtaining a parley had we not been guided to an in
habited hovel by the light gleaming through the door, on
assailing which, some fine strapping fellows emerged from
their concealment _to protest against our violating their
harim, which Avas confirmed by the alarmed voices of the
women within. It seems they took us for a party of
Ibrahim Pacha's soldiers pressing men for the conscription,
or plundering them of their property, and this accounted
for the ruined and deserted villages so common in Syria,
the people abandoning their homes and flying to the wilds
and deserts from the oppression of this raiser of taxes.
Ibrahim Pacha has the reputation of being of a very sordid
and miserly disposition, descending to the most degrading
methods of making money. Amongst other things he
speculated in pigs ! ! but as this was an abomination
enough to raise the Seven Sleepers and shock Mussulman
prejudices, he billeted his herds of swine on the Christian
ryots of the districts of Antioch, to be fed and returned
to him in full tale when required, compelling them to
make good any deficiency by death or accident. In like
manner he forces the peasants to take so many yoke
of his oxen for their agriculture, Avhether they require
them or not, exacting his share of the produce as a re
muneration, besides having his cattle fed and returned
after the season.1 However, as our emergency Avas press
ing, partly by assurances and partly by threats, Ave induced
our friends to show us some place of accommodation.
They first tried to lodge us in caves and ruins, but fearing
we should take forcible possession of the harim, they at
length conducted us to a large ruined building with a
1 Commines has a similar story, Ch. II.— -"Le Roy Ferrand de Naples
faisait tout train de marchandise en son Royaume, jusqu'a bailler les
pourceaux a garder son peuple, et les faisait engraisser pour mieux les vendre.
S'ils mouraient falait qu'ils les payassent," etc.

SYRIA

153

strong door in the Io\A'er part of it : after a conference
Avith the inmates, some heavy bolts and bars Avere Avith-
drawn, and we found ourselves in a comfortable room,
surrounded by large jars of grain, butter, oil etc, and
occupied by a respectable old Mussulman and his daughter.
As soon as the old man's alarm had subsided, he set about
satisfying our craving appetites, Avhilst his daughter made
bread on the hearth, and Ave fared much better than we
had expected. Our host the next morning did not object,
any more than the Sheik at Kerim, to being Avell paid for
his hospitality.
November jo. — In three hours we came in sight of Aleppo,
Avhich has a very fine aspect on approaching it from its
numerous stone-built mosques and minarets, and a high
artificial mound in the centre, surmounted by the Avails
and gateAvays of the citadel. It is situated amongst barren
rocky slopes, except in the immediate vicinity of the town,
Avhere tracts of gardens and fruit orchards have been
rescued by the copious supply of water for irrigation from
the otherwise barren country. The olive and fig are culti
vated here as well as the pistachio, and I am assured this
is the only place in Syria where the latter groAvs. It has
the appearance and size of a small-leaved apple tree.
We ahvays experienced much more difficulty in pro
curing lodgings in the towns, than in villages, which Avas
here again exemplified. We first proceeded to the house
of the British Consular agent, Mr. Werry, a spacious and
handsome building, Avith reservoirs of Avater shaded by trees
in the central court. On applying to this functionary for
assistance, he sent one of his servants to conduct us to
a khan ; this was bad enough, but after traversing- the
streets and bazaars of the toAvn through its whole length,
Ave discovered that Ave had not been sent to an over-
respectable lodging, and it Avas fortunate we did not
remain there, as Ave aftenvards found out that this khan
Avas a gambling-house, frequented by all the low and
disreputable Franks and Levantines in the place. Re
manding Mr. Werry's servant to his master, we proceeded

154 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
to the house of Mr. Charles Barker, another son of Mr.
Barker of Suadea, who resides in a suburb of the toAvn,
which we passed on our entrance. This quarter is called
the Katab, and is composed of wooden houses, with rooms
on the ground floor only, for fear of earthquakes. It is
inhabited by Europeans and Levantine Christians, Avho
abandoned the city in consequence of an earthquake Avhich
happened three years previously and ruined a great part
of Aleppo. Mr. Barker, with the same kindness and
hospitality Ave experienced from the rest of his family,
received us into his house and entertained us during our
stay. The city of Aleppo is the best built of any in the Turkish
dominions, the numerous elegant mosques, houses, and
arched bazaars being all built of hewn stone beautifully
put together. One house I visited was remarkably hand
some, the sides of the square surrounding the courtyard
being ornamented Avith projecting Gothic roofs, Avhich,
as well as the ceilings of the rooms, were covered Avith
arabasque painting and gilding, that in the rooms being
executed Avith much taste. Under this house Ave descended
three stories of vaults, cut from the solid rock, the materials
from Avhich Ave Avere told had been used in the building.
The bazaars are croAvded Avith people, and have a very
gay appearance, the Aleppines being celebrated for their
finery in dress. This place, unlike Stamboul, is essentially
an Eastern city, our costume being seen only on Europeans :
the Mussulmans are partial to gaudy colours, wearing green,
white, or striped turbans. The Syrian Christians, of Avhom
there are 15,000 here, Avear floAving dresses and large grey
turbans, and mixing Avith these are the Arabs in their
broad-striped Abbaes and bright yelloAv Kefiehs Avith
long scarlet fringe, besides a number of Persians in their
uncouth attire. These latter formed part of a caravan of
pilgrims on its way to Mecca and Kerbela.
Passing through the long bazaars, the shops of which are
hung with shawls and scarves, shoes of all colours, SAvords,
arms, etc., you come to an open space surrounded by ruins,

SYRIA. 155
with the exception of some elegant mosques. In this place
the horse market is held, Avhich is a lively scene and worth
Avitnessing. The horse " dellals," or brokers, are a shreAvd
set of felloAvs, equally expert at fleecing both buyers and
sellers : they Avear scarlet cloaks lined with fur, large
coloured turbans, long boots, SAvords and pistols. Where-
ever there is a smooth spot, they are galloping the horses
entrusted to them to dispose of, and thereby endangering
the limbs of the sedentary and apathetic Turks, whilst
apart from the croAvds, groups are collected on the different
mounds discussing the merits or value of mules, pack-horses
or camels, Avith here and there a Avary Arab, leading a blood-
looking horse ornamented Avith coloured Avorsted tassels
and fringes : to the left stretch a number of booths, Avhere
the country people are selling tobacco and other produce,
fruit, floAvers and poultry. On the right rises the mound,
on the summit of Avhich is the citadel, a gateAvay and bridge
crossing the moat, and an ascent of steps leading up to the
Avails. The Christians of Aleppo Avere in great consterna
tion lest they should be included in the conscription, the
Egyptian Government having contemplated embodying
them as a Militia, to Avhich they have an utter aversion.
If they Avere employed merely on the spot, it would be of
great advantage to them to be armed, even for their, own
protection, as the hatred of the Turks, or mixed population
of Aleppo, tOAvards the Christians, is so strong that it
Avas confidently believed that had Ibrahim Pacha been
vanquished at the battle of Nezib, there Avould have been
a general massacre of all the Christians in the city. If
they Avere armed, they might protect themselves — that
is, if they had the spirit to defend their oavu; which "is
doubtful. I Avas told here by a Greek priest that the Scriptures
as possessed by the Armenians, Catholics, Greeks and
Maronites Avere all alike, but their differences arose from
their folloAving the commentaries of the chiefs of their
several sects. This is much the case nearer home! The
Frank society of Aleppo is composed of Consular Agents,

156 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
merchants, and European instructors in the' Egyptian
service. I had an opportunity of attending some of their
evening reunions, which were interesting from their novelty.
The ladies, some of whom are very handsome, all Avore the
Syrian costume, silk trousers under a frock in three pieces,
that is, split vertically, a long embroidered jacket of coloured
cloth or velvet, and a rich shawl sash. The head-dress is a
small coloured turban festooned with seed pearl, the hair
plaited in long braids and hung with gold coins, necklaces
of which ornament the neck. This dress is handsome
and luxurious, but requires a fine person to make it look
graceful. They all sat cross-legged or reclined on the
divans round the walls, never moving except to dance,
after which they resumed their places. Conversation was
out of the question, except among themselves : however,
the gentlemen indemnified themselves on their side for
their taciturnity by smoking long cherry stick pipes and
narghilehs, till the room was so clouded with smoke that
it was difficult to see across it, Avhile one of the host's family
was going round with a bag of prime Latakia to replenish
the exhausted pipes of the smokers. This Avas rendered
more absurd by the gentlemen Avearing the European dress,
with the exception of a red fez, and sitting on chairs. Some
of the elderly ladies smoked narghilehs, and the younger
ones would have had no objection, but Avere fearful it might
deduct from their youthful status. The narghileh, or Avater
pipe, used here, is made of the cocoa-nut shell, dyed black
and cased in filagree silver; the boAvl, also of silver, is
ornamented with chains and coral ; the tube is a common
reed, for the convenience of changing them oftener ; no
mouthpiece is used ; Avhen presented, a small embroidered
cushion is placed on the divan on Avhich the pointed end
is rested. The tobacco, .a species groAvn in Persia, and
thence called Shirazee, is first damped, so that it is necessary
to keep a lighted coal continually upon it. A scented
pastille, prepared at Damascus, is used by the epicures in
smoking. Every house you enter is furnished with several
of these pipes, or the common Turkish one with a crystal

\

SYRIA.

157

boAvl and long snake, called here a narbeech, besides a rack
against the Avail supporting a stand of long pipes, the
ornamenting of Avhich is a matter of fashion. At Con
stantinople there is a large bazaar appropriated to the
manufacture of amber mouthpieces for pipes, some of
which sell as high as £10 each, if large and of white
clouded amber.
The weather is becoming daily colder, and we are
threatened Avith a rainy and unpleasant excursion through
Syria, besides hearing reports of the roads being unsafe ; but
I believe the country is nearly cleared of petty plunderers
. by the Avholesale Egyptian bandits. I heard a good story
of an -English original Avho was Avalking with a friend in
Aleppo, Avhen he Avas saluted by an Italian, Avho con
gratulated him on his safe arrival. The Englishman,
instead of returning his salutation, abused him in no
measured terms, notwithstanding the remonstrances of the
man, Avho, thinking him gone in the upper works, quickly
made his exit On his friend inquiring hoAV the man had
deserved this treatment, " Why," said he, " the rascal was
the cause of my being robbed : I met him at Latakia, when
he advised me to come round by Antioch here, as the
direct road Avas unsafe, and as it is a rule I ahvays follow
to travel exactly the opposite road from what I am re
commended, I came by the direct route and was plundered
and stript " ! ! HoAvever, the principle Avas not bad : where
there is a government in the country, a road on Avhich one
robbery has been committed may generally be considered
safe, as the perpetrators in fear of being arrested will have
made their escape, or gone to another part of the country.
I was informed here that between Aleppo and Talmyra
there is a tribe of Arabs living amongst the Anazee, who
subsist entirely by hunting the gazelle. They are called
Sleibe.1 They live on the flesh of these animals, and their
clothes and tents are made from the skins. Their mode
of taking the gazelle is peculiar: when they have found
a place frequented by them, an extensive tunnel wall is
1 I afterwards heard at Damascus that these wanderers were gypsies.

-\

158 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON. '
constructed, gradually narroAving to an angle, at which
point it is partially broken down, and a deep fosse dug
on the other side ; the herd is then surrounded, and
naturally presses to the widest opening to escape, when
the Arabs close in and pursue them doAvn the tunnel,
where, finding no other outlet, they leap the broken wall
and fall into the pit prepared on the other side. The
natives of Aleppo are a handsome race, and even to the
loAvest classes are polite and obliging. I had little op
portunity of seeing their females, but should suppose they
were equally so. I cannot say much for the beauty of
the Levantine ladies, who have sharp unmeaning faces,
with some few exceptions, and these Avere very lovely.
I saw one beautiful woman here, but she was a Jewess.
When a stranger calls at their houses, it is the ladies' duty
to present him with coffee, and they pride themselves on
being good cooks, notAvithstandlng their affectation of
European refinement The servants are generally poor
relations of the family, who of course do not feel it a
degradation, as the Avife is little more than a head servant.
It is a system of mutual accommodation, and a remnant
of patriarchal customs. The belief in the power of the
evil eye is very strong here among Mohammedans and
Christians, and their dread of it commensurate ; for this
cause they purposely avoid ornamenting their children,
and even Avashing them, for fear of the envy or evil eye
of their neighbours, imagining it can create illness and
other bad effects, and they are never at a loss for a variety
of instances of persons who have been thus smitten,
entirely overlooking the majority AA-ho have remained un
harmed, but Avhose mishaps, if they had happened, Avould
have been attributed to this cause. If you enquire
what ails a sick person, he replies, " Oh, it is only
people's eyes ! " And it is very remarkable how ex
tended this superstition has ahvays been, so that it gives
grounds to imagine that it has some foundation in truth.
As it is stronger in Ireland than England, it may have
been introduced into that country by the Carthaginians,

SYRIA.

159

and come to England from thence, or else it may have
been introduced direct by the Phoenicians, if, indeed, it
Avas not indigenous. In England, if you offer a man a
price for a horse, he expects it will fall lame, or something
else Avill happen to it ; amongst the Arabs this feeling is
so strong that a man will seldom venture to keep a horse
that has been put a price on, and he has been pressed
to part Avith. In Ireland, it is the custom on entering
a place Avhere any occupation is going on to say, "God
bless the Avork ! " and you cannot offend a mother more
than by praising her child Avithout saying, " God bless it ! "
In the same Avay, amongst the Moors, it is considered
a great insult to admire a horse or anything belonging
to them, and not add this qualification ; and amongst the
Barbary Jews nothing gives more offence to a pretty girl
than to extol her beauty without praising God for it, or
to commend their children without blessing them ; in fact,
it is looked on as a piece of gratuitous malice, and is
generally met with some exclamation equivalent to " May
the omen be averted ! " and to counteract the effects of
this dreaded evil eye, their children's dresses are em
broidered Avith figures of hands, and five fingers are
painted on their door-posts and furniture, the number
five being considered a poAverful charm against its in
fluence. Virgil has, "Nescio quis teneros oculos mihi
fascinat agnos," and the remarks of the great Lord Bacon
are so pertinent and extraordinary, that I cannot help
inserting some of them here-: "There be none of the
affections Avhich have been noted to fascinate or bewitch,
but love and envy : they both have vehement Avishes : they
frame themselves readily into imaginations and suggestions,
and they come easily into the eye, especially upon the
presence of the objects which are the points that conduce
to fascination, if any such thing there be  so that
still there seemeth to be acknowledged in the act of envy
an ejaculation or irradiation of the eye : nay, some have
been so curious as to note that the times Avhen the stroke
or percussion of an envious eye doth most hurt, are, when

l6b FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
the party envied is beheld in glory or triumph : for that
sets an edge upon envy: and besides at such times the
spirits of the person envied do come forth most into the
outward parts, and so meet the blow."
The people of Aleppo and Aintab are subject to a most
afflicting disease, called here " the Aleppo boil." It is not
peculiar to the natives,- as strangers are said invariably to
be attacked with it after a week's residence; hoAvever, it
appears there are exceptions, as I was there a month
without the visitation. It generally attacks the face, but
often the arms, feet, and other parts of the body, beginning
with a red swelling, which increases and spreads till it
often penetrates to the bone, sometimes carrying away
the nose, and always leaving most ungainly cicatrices :
infants are not exempted from this scourge, and I have
seen ladies' faces quite seamed with the marks of it. I
should advise no lady, who has any regard for her beauty,
to visit Aleppo. No remedy has been found to check
the progress of this afflicting disease by the medical
practitioners of the Pacha's troops, Avho themselves suffer
much from it, but cautery, which also leaves a scar, besides
the danger attending it. No origin has been found for
it except that attributed to most local maladies, that it
is caused by the water.1
The Aleppines are fond of hunting : they have two sorts
of greyhounds, — the common Persian black, Avith feathered
tail, and a stronger greyhound Avith smooth hair, faAvn-
coloured, with black muzzle. They take the gazelle Avith
the assistance of the goshawk, Avhich confuses the animal
by striking at its head. I saAv a greyhound stolen in a
very clever way in the open street. A Avell-dressed horse
man was riding in, leading a favourite dog by a string,
1 I afterwards found this complaint at Bagdad, where I was told it was
caused by eating dates, and consequently called the "Date-mark." It had
the same features as at Aleppo, and was as common. Although they consume
dates at the latter place, they do not grow there ; but I have no doubt, if
inquiry were made, this peculiar complaint would be found to extend over the
whole course of the Euphrates, and may arise from some mineralogical im
pregnation of the water, or some minute insect which inhabits it.

SYRIA. l6l
when a boy ran behind him, unfastened the cord from the
greyhound's collar, and tied it to the horse's tail. He never
took his eyes off the man till he had secured his prize,
and the horseman jogged on, string in hand, quite innocent
of his loss, Avhich, however, he discovered at the end of
the street, and, I believe, recovered his dog. It Avas a
remarkably clever trick, and shoAved as much ingenuity
as rascality.
The river of Aleppo produces tAvo species of fish, Avhich
are much esteemed ; the one is like a minnoAv, but flatter;
the other a short greenish-black mud fish, Avhich does not
look tempting. This stream is lost in a ' marshy lake,
about forty miles south of the town ; and I am told
that a village at the spot, called Kinesrin, the site of
Chalcis, is inhabited by fire-Avorshippers, and I hear of
others to the north. Woodcocks abound in the gardens
by the river.
The Jebel Anzeyry, a range of mountains running N.
and S. through Syria to join the Antilebanon, is inhabited
by an extraordinary race of people, of Avhom little is
known : they are swarthy, Avith a downcast suspicious
look, and are supposed to be idolaters. They say that
they are prohibited from eating pork, and are bound to
stab any Christian that may Avalk before them : however,
at present they dare not folloAv this precept. I should
think a visit to their country Avould be interesting. They
may be a remnant of the ancient idolaters of Syria. The
large transit commerce, Avhich formerly came from the
East through Aleppo, is now extinct There is at present
a good trade carried on in raAV silk, as also in European
goods, printed cotton shaAvls, handkerchiefs, etc., and- a~
large caravan arrives now and then from Bagdad Avith
Shiraz tobacco, called Tumbuk, for which the traders
take in return the striped silk fabrics of Aleppo.
This fine city Avas very much damaged by the last
earthquake, Avhich destroyed many of the houses and
mosques, and some of the minarets at present standing are
very much out of the perpendicular. It is very common
VOT.. I. 11

1 62 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
to see these leaning tOAvers in other parts of Turkey,
particularly in Roumelia, either from this cause or from
the foundations having given Avay.
Our direct route now lay through Mesopotamia to
Persia; but being so near to Syria and Palestine, the
temptation to visit these countries was too great to be
resisted, and Ave accordingly diverged from our course for
that purpose. Yet, Avriting after its accomplishment, of
all the imaginable wretched and miserable undertakings
which experience has realized or imagination pictured,
nothing can equal in discomfort a Avinter journey in Syria,
combining rain, or rather Avater en masse, mud up to the
girths, intense cold, nothing to eat, no shelter at night
except to be devoured by fleas, altogether such a con
catenation of horrors as could only have been experienced
by Baillie Fraser,1 or dreamt of by those Avho never under
went the ordeal. After seeing the localities, I can Avell
understand Avhy the disciples Avere told to pray that their
flight might not be in the Avinter. • Sometimes the roads
are quite impassable, at least to emigrants with families,
but, thank God, we at length safely reached the spot Avhere
the Holy City once stood !
We quitted Aleppo on the 8th of December, going south
and west over rocky undulating plains, remarkable for
nothing but large flocks of bustards and gazelles feeding
by the road-side. The Aveather was cold. We passed
the village of Kan Tuman, and arrived at Sermein in nine
hours. Here our accommodation was very bad. We
lodged in a room Avithout doors, and were not sorry to
leave at an early hour, travelling south over the same
plains, Avhich became less stony as we advanced. At
the village of Khaneh Sibil Ave met a squadron of
lancers of the Egyptian army, marching north. They
Avere about 2000. The men Avere lightly but neatly armed
and accoutred, and the horses Avere very superior and in
excellent condition. This is the only object for which
1 Winter Journey in Persia, by Fraser.

SYRIA.

163

Ibrahim Pacha Avill go to any expense : and although he
may compel the natives to sell their horses, he ahvays
gives them their full value. At this village Ave Avished
to Avater our horses ; but some of the soldiers being near,
the villagers told us that there was no water to be had,
Avhat they used being brought from a long distance ; how
ever, they presently gave us a hint that if we Avaited till
the troops Avere past, Ave might be served, and, accordingly,
when they had filed off, Ave Avere taken to a well of good
Avater, which had been concealed by brambles on the
approach of the troops.
The Aveather is shoAvery, Avhich is a prelude to the winter
rains. We passed several ruins of mud Avails, which had
been villages, and reached Marrah in seven hours' march.
We did not enter this place. It looked large and ruinous,
and contains a neAv cavalry barrack. A great many of
the troopers were draAving Avater at a well outside the
gates by means of a long rope over a pulley drawn by
a donkey doAvn an inclined plane : the men were civil.
As there Avas no village on the road between this and
Shokune, Ave diverged to the eastAvard, and about five
miles further, came to the abode of a community who
Avere living in caves underground, probably inhabitants of
some of the deserted villages. In tAvo hours Ave came to
the village of Kiffoor-bashi, Avhere Ave took possession
of the Sheik's house, after first expelling thence three
camels ; in their places Ave stabled our horses, Avhich were
divided from us by a Ioav wall. We found our system of
not carrying provisions very near akin to starvation in
this wretched country ; at times we could not even
procure burgool. At a village further on I had an illus
tration of Scripture history. I asked for milk, and was
told they had none. I said I had seen a herd of cattle
coming in as I arrived. "O," said the man, "you Avould not
drink coavs' milk, and Ave have no sheep." " Butter of kine,
and milk of slieep, and bulls of the fatlings of Basan."
Sheep are regularly milked in these countries, and coavs'
milk is never used except sour.

1 64 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
December 10. — From here Ave marched to Khan Shokune
in four hours, across plains of fine red earth, on which,
from the feAv days' rain, the grass was fast springing up.
This is a large village at the foot of an artificial mound.
It has a stone-built mosque and khan furnished with
baths ; in front of it are two large square reservoirs of
water : it has a peculiar appearance on approaching it,
from the houses all being formed like sugar loaves of light-
coloured mud. We continued our route across the plains
without a break, except the distant ridge of Jebel Anzirie
in the Avest, and varied Avith flights of lapAvings and jack-
daAvs, and immense numbers of larks. This country, Avhich
extends to Palmyra, if one may credit the report of the
natives, is very fertile, and capable of great cultivation:
that it formerly supported a large population may be
gathered from the numerous artificial mounds spread
over its level surface, each of which indicates the site
of a toAvn.
We passed a village on the left on a mound called Taiba,
and another a little further on, both of them built in the
same conical style; descending by winding gullies to the
valley of the Orontes, we came to Hamah in five hours.
The view of Hamah is fine ; it is nearly as large as
Aleppo, and backed by high cliffs, full of excavations,
which are now inhabited. The Orontes Aoavs through
the centre of the toAvn, bordered with trees, and Avashing
the foot of a high artificial mound which rises from
amongst the houses on its banks : it is covered Avith grass,
from the moisture rising from the river, and is about 200
yards in length. This place must be very beautiful in
summer, the houses being interspersed Avith trees and
groves lining the banks of the Orontes : the houses are
roofed Avith domes and arches, on account of the scarcity
of timber for building. The Avater-Avheels for supplying the
town are, I suppose, the largest knoAvn : these enormous
wheels are Avorked entirely by the current, and discharge
their water into aqueducts, supported on tAvo or more
tiers of arches. These aqueducts and dripping Avheels

«oa
o

o

SYRIA. 16$
are very picturesque, as Avell as the houses Avhich run up
in groups, or range above range, half-Avay up the cliffs.
We crossed the river, and entering the toAvn through
croAvded, dirty, and uncovered bazaars, made our way
to the Mutsellim's house, Avho sent a man to find us
quarters, in which he did not succeed until Ave had
explored the Avhole toAvn, and at last Avere billeted in a
miserable house in the upper toAvn, already occupied by
a man and his Avife, and full of stores, part of which were
dislodged to make room for us. We Avere too tired to
return and complain of our treatment, or find a better
lodging, so we submitted with resignation, and as the
OAvners seemed inclined to please us, Ave lay down on our
carpets, and Avere compelled to witness that never-ought-
to-be-seen process of cooking, Avhich went far towards
blunting our keen appetites. The unlucky casserole,
containing our anticipated mess, was most precariously
situated betAveen a litter of half-naked children, as black
and dirty as young buffaloes, and a Avoman very little
cleaner, who Avas alternately employed superintending the
cookery and feeding these bantlings according to their
ages. At night Ave were devoured by fleas, besides being
haunted by cats, Avho seemed to think our heads capital
landing-places on Avhich to alight Avhen jumping down
from the bags and boxes above us.
The natives of Hamah have a very JeAvish physiognomy,
and are extremely bigoted and fanatical. Ibrahim Pacha
finds it difficult to keep them quiet, and a troop of artillery
arrived here to-day to check their unruliness.
There are no JeAvs at Hamah, and the hatred of the
Mussulmans for the race is accounted for by the~folIoAvirtg
account, Avhich is Avell authenticated. About ten years
ago the Jews of Hamah, having a dispute with the
native Christians, devised a plan of revenge, which,
however, recoiled on themselves. They employed an
Arab to shoot a Avild hog, the head of Avhich was
conveyed at night and thrown into the basin of the
fountain in the court of the principal mosque, where

1 66 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
the Turks performed their ablutions before the Namaz ;
the next morning, of course, there Avas a general con
sternation amongst the true believers, Avho were horrified
at discovering the head of the unclean beast in their very
sanctuary: they issued forth, vowing vengeance against
the perpetrators of this sacrilege, and there were not
wanting JeAvs, stationed for the purpose, Avho suggested
that no suspicion could fall on their race, Avho held the
animal in the same detestation as themselves, when im
mediately the public rage Avas directed towards the
Christian population, and the fermentation Avas on , the
point of ending in a general massacre of the professors
of that faith : fortunately, at this critical moment, the
Arab who had supplied the pork, not having left the town,
and hearing the cause of the tumult, came forward and
offered to point out the man to whom he had sold it He
proved to be a Jew, and on being brought before the
Cazi, and bastinadoed, a full confession was extorted ; he
was then executed, and the fury of the mob being allayed,
the rest of the tribe AArere banished the place, where they
dare not return on peril of their lives. I Avas even advised
to cut my hair, lest I should be taken for a Jew, as they
all have the sides of their heads unshorn, while the
Mussulmans shave the whole head.
The women of Hamah are muffled up in a large wrapper,
concealing every part of the face but their eyes ; over the
nose Is suspended a small gold cylinder, from Avhich hang
several gold coins of different sizes : their earrings are very
heavy, and suspended over the upper part of the ear.
Hamah Avas called by the Greeks Epiphania. If this
be the Hamath of Scripture, it Avould seem that the
HebreAvs never occupied the Avhole of the promised land.
After the partition there remained yet very much land to
be possessed, amongst which is enumerated " All Lebanon
toAvard the sunrising from Baal Gad under Mount Hermon,
to the entering in of Hamath " (Joshua xiii. 5). This does
not militate against the former prophecies, for in the pro
spective prophecy of Ezekiel (xlvii. 20) the same is repeated

SYRIA. 167
in defining the boundaries of the land. " The west side
shall be the great sea from the border till a man come
over against Hamath.'' This line Avould reach the sea
betAveen Tortosa and Aradus, and include the whole of
Lebanon, a very small portion of Avhich was Avithin the
ancient limits of Palestine.
Although in the time of David the Avhole of Syria was
subdued, it Avas only rendered tributary, and not in
corporated in the possessions of the tribes : and Solomon's
dominion, in like manner, extended to the Euphrates, as
was promised to Abraham.
December ir. — We mounted and Avent on across the
plains, which Avere becoming heavy, the rain having
commenced. This road seems to be much frequented by
traders betAveen Damascus and Aleppo, but the principal
people Ave met Avere Arabs, with black striped cloaks,
carrying long guns or spears, from the tops of which hung
tufts of black ostrich feathers : they generally rode mares,
not remarkable for beauty ; there Avere a feAv, however,
Avhich Avould have brought a high price anyAvhere.
In four hours we came to Rostan, a large Availed village
of 400 houses, on the precipitous hills forming the bank
of the Orontes. This place has a very picturesque ap
pearance : it is surrounded by black stone Avails, and the
river is crossed by a handsome bridge of black and Avhite
stone of eleven arches. Just beloAV this bridge the water
falls in cascades over the bed of the river, where it is
conducted to mills: the Lebanon is on the Avest, capped
Avith snoAV. A roomy khan stands on the opposite side.
The Orontes traverses these plains in a deep narrow
gully, and is never seen till you come to the verge of the
descent. Ascending a ravine full of artificial-looking conical
rocks and peaks of sandstone, Ave came in sight of the
snoAV caps of Lebanon, and passing the village of Telle
on a verdant mound, reached Homs in five hours from
Rostan. The horses Ave had brought from Constantinople here
gave in, and Ave Avere obliged to send them to the market

1 68 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
and dispose of them for Avhat they Avould bring, as their
backs Avere much galled, from the heavy Turkish saddles,
Avhich were not off their backs for eight, ten, and some
times twelve hours a day, but principally from our neglect
ing the advice of the Arabs, never to unsaddle our horses
at night on a journey: the Aveather had become so cold
that immediately their backs Avere uncovered they rose
in swellings wherever the saddles had pressed, even after
allowing them an hour to cool, and these SAvellings Avere
rubbed into sores Avhen the saddles were replaced. I
afterwards profited by this advice, and found that after
keeping the saddle on for thirty days my horse's back Avas
sound. Our horses sold for less than half their cost, but
they had done us good service, and we Avere told Ave could
always procure hired cattle to the south, which is prefer
able in bad weather to the risk and trouble of our OAvn ;
although in fine Aveather it is by far the most advantageous
plan to ride your OAvn horses.
We were quartered in the house of the Sheik of the
Christians, Avho is the responsible head of the denomina
tion for the time his office lasts: he has to settle the
market prices, collect their contributions and assessments,
and billet travellers, fleecing his people as much as possible,
knowing that he is to be squeezed by the Mutsellim.
According to Eastern rules he may be a gainer, but he
holds no sinecure.
The house, each room of Avhich contained a family, Avas
full of women and children all dressed in dirty blue rags,
and squalling and screaming from morning till night
Some of them had fevers, and I am only astonished they
are not oftener visited with plague, from the filthy state of
the toAvn and their uncleanly habits. This house has a large
pool of stagnant Avater in the centre of the courtyard. It
is very trying being detained in such places, but as the
Aveather is very rainy, Ave consider ourselves fortunate in
having a shelter of any sort.
Horns, formerly Hemessa (probably a Greek corruption)
is an extensive toAvn, built of stone, Avith an immense artificial

SYRIA.

169

mound of Avhite earth on its south side. Of the Acropolis
Avhich crowned this hill little hoav remains, and the hill
itself is decaying and being Avashed aAvay by the action of
the rains. This place is in a fine situation, commanding a
prospect of the mountains in the east; on that side also
lies an extensive lake, called by the natives Eskeli. The
toAvn contains some covered bazaars and several large
khans and one of Ibrahim Pacha's new barracks, where a
corps of artillery are stationed, consisting of 36 pieces and
2300 men. The number of families that pay the poll-tax
or ferdi at Horns is 5800, of which 4500 are Turks and
1300 Christians; Avhich, reckoning five persons to each
family on an average, would give a population of 29,000.
There are no JeAvs here.
The people of the Avhole of the tOAvns and villages
of Syria and Palestine have been deprived of their arms
by the Egyptian Government, either voluntarily or by
compulsion. This is a very politic measure with a
turbulent people, as long as it is not made to minister
to oppression.
In these tOAvns are to be found a great many coins and
antique intaglios Avhich are brought from Balbec, Palmyra
and other mines of antiquity. The best places to procure
them are the shops in the jewellers' bazaars, Avhere the
Arabs dispose of the silver and gold coins for their Aveight
to be melted doAvn, but the goldsmiths, knowing their
value, generally preserve them and purchase the antiques
for a trifle, aAvaiting an opportunity of disposing of them
again to Europeans, Avhich on this line of road does not
often occur. We used to amuse ourselves at these shops
by turning out and examining the curious medley contained
in the little cabinets in Avhich they kept the materials of
their trade, consisting of a great variety of cut-glass jewels
of all colours, sets of stones, agates and coloured beads,
and a few amethysts, turquoises and garnets of little
value ; and amongst these are generally found copper
and silver coins, intaglios, cameos and engraved stones;
many spoilt by the friction of years in such hard company,

17° FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
some broken, and but feAv perfect. The antique intaglios
are commonly executed on white or red cornelian. We
procured a feAV of these, and I might have bought many
more ; but, Avith such a long and precarious journey before
me, did not like to encumber myself with anything Avorth
losing. The inscribed stones were very numerous, most
of them with Cufic inscriptions. Very good Greek and
Roman silver and copper coins can be obtained here. We
saw a feAV of gold of some of the Roman Emperors. One
of these Avas a rare copper coin of Corycus in Cilicia, Avith
turreted head, and, on the reverse, a Mercury, Another,
Antiochus, King of Syria, B.C. 145. Besides coins of Anto
ninus, Gallienus, Faustina, and many Christian coins, Avith
figures with sceptre and halo, and inscribed Christus Basilius
Basilii. They are very expert at making false coins, and
it requires a great deal of discrimination to avoid being
imposed on, for the mould is taken from a good coin. An
Armenian, Avho was much inclined, but not clever enough,
to be a rogue, brought us a very fine Alexander for sale,
but, fortunately, before striking the bargain, seeing we
were pleased Avith it, he said he had several more which
he would dispose of on the same terms. He went away,
and shortly returned Avith seven or eight more, all evidently
cast in the same die, Avhich, on further examination, proved
to be spurious, and of no value except as fac-similes. They
Avere not even made Avith pure silver.
The variety of dialects of the Arabic language in use in
the Levant is very remarkable, and, though I had acquired
the dialect spoken in West Barbary, I found this of very
little use in Syria, until I became accustomed to the lan
guage of the different places Ave came to, and for this I
had little time. At Damascus, Horns, Hamah, Aleppo,
and Jerusalem, Arabic is spoken ; but each place has its
peculiar dialect, as also have Bagdad, Egypt, and the
several Barbary States ; but the Arabic of the Koran is a
dead language, and has the same relation to the others
as Latin has to Italian, French, and Spanish. Even the
Maltese is an Arab dialect.

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SYRIA.

171

I heard of a Professor of Arabic from Denmark (Prof.
VonhaA'en) going on a scientific mission to Egypt, and not
being able to understand a word of the language spoken
by the natives.
This road not being much travelled, Ave experienced
more difficulty than Ave had anticipated in procuring
horses or mules for hire, and Avere compelled to apply
to the Governor of the place for assistance, who very
ungraciously refused to help us, from Avhich disobliging
behaviour, coupled Avith the meanness of his appearance, he
certainly could not have been an Osmanli. In the mean
time Ave Avere in a dilemma, as Ave could only procure
donkeys or camels, and the oAvners refused to go any other
road than to Tripoli or Damascus, and Ave began to regret
parting Avith our horses. We Avere assured that the road
to Beirout Avas impassable, from mud and snow on the
mountains ; so Ave at last decided on making the trip, on
donkeys, to Tripoli, as camels are a very dangerous mount
in wet roads, Avhere they cannot keep their footing.
December rq.. — When the donkeys were brought, they
proved much better than we had expected, being large
and poAverful, and the size of ponies. Dividing our bag
gage among the three, Ave marched out of the tOAvn, taking
an easterly course, through oceans of mud, into Avhich, as
we Avere not yet accustomed to riding these neAv inflictions,
Ave every noAV and then slipped off, although Ave had loops of
rope to serve the office of stirrups. These only encumbered
our falls, and, notAvithstanding our vexation, Ave could not
help laughing at the ludicrous scenes and the ungainly ap
pearance Ave exhibited before' Ave had travelled many miles.
Our road led over a stony plain passing north 6f~ the
Lake of Horns, the shores of which are not higher than
the surrounding level, and soon after we ascended the hills.
This is a very gradual and easy pass to Tripoli, between
Avhat would seem the southern termination of the Jebel
Ansirl and the north of the Lebanon. Crossing over this
ridge, we opened the valley of Lebanon on our left, rising
in Avooded acclivities on either side till they met in the

172 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
distant perspective : their tops already whitening under the
hand of December. We passed a village called Heddedee,
composed of black stone hovels, the materials for which
seemed to have been gathered from a neighbouring mound
of ruins. Further on we reached a similar group of huts,
called Nasee, and as there was no other shelter within a
reasonable distance, Ave stopped here for the night, after 8
hours' sIoav marching. To the north rose a commanding
bluff mountain-spur, covered Avith the picturesque fortress
of Kalat el Hosn, flooded Avith light from the setting sun,
and relieved by a back-ground of black stormy clouds, the
contents of which were not long in descending in torrents
to the earth. Our lodging was most miserable : a large
fire in the middle of the hovel filled it Avith a dense smoke,
to avoid suffocation from which Ave Avere obliged to lie on .
the ground, to be within the draught of the fire. This, of
course, exposed us all the more to the attacks of our
enemies, but, listening to the rain and storm Avithout, Ave
made ourselves happy by comparison. Even here we
found some Regulars impressing recruits for the army !
December rj. — The morning broke clear and cloudless.
We ascended the mountains, leaving Kalat el Hosn on
the right, mingling its outline with the wooded crags. This
castle Avas garrisoned by the Crusaders during their occu
pation. The water had run off the slopes, leaving the
track more passable than Ave could have anticipated. We
passed through a small valley with a feAV huts called Ain
el Haramia (The Avell of Robbers), and continued over
the mountains, which were covered Avith verdure, through
Avoods of Ilex. Here Ave roused a huge wild boar, Avho
cantered off unscathed, as Ave did not expect such large
game, and soon after three Avolves crossed our path,
pursued by a number of shepherds' dogs. We stopped
to speak to these shepherds, and obtained some milk,
Avhich they readily gave us, but refused to be remunerated,
a very remarkable trait to meet Avith in Syria.
In the afternoon the weather becoming threatening,
Ave Avere forced to look about for an asylum ; but all the

SYRIA.

*73

villages Ave came to Avere deserted. At length, descending
from the mountains toAvards the coast, Ave made for a
village about tAvo miles off the road on the declivity of
the hills. On reaching this (by name Telabbas) Ave found
more evidence of Egyptian civilization. There were no
men in the place, and the Avomen informed us that the
day before, the Governor of Tripoli, Avith a party of horse,
had been here on a plundering excursion, on hearing of
Avhose approach the men all ran aAvay to the mountains,
to avoid paying their contributions, Avhich are often levied
several times from the same persons. Enraged at their
disappointment the Governor ordered the Avomen to be
beaten, and then plundered the village of Avhatever he
could find, so that Ave Avith difficulty obtained some eggs
and sour milk. It took us eight hours to reach this place,
Vhere we slept, and left the next morning (16th) across
the plain of Tripoli, feeling our Avay through the Avater
Avith Avhich it was submerged, and the track destroyed by
the numerous streams from the mountains. Before Ave
had proceeded five miles, the rain again came doAvn in
sheets, accompanied by a beating south-Avester, against
Avhich it Avas Avith great difficulty Ave could make our
unfortunate donkeys bear up. After some hard labour,
Ave at length reached an old ruined khan. Here Ave
found shelter, but could not succeed in making a fire
for Avant of dry fuel. About twelve o'clock the weather
cleared, and we once more started, wading through the
mud, passing several villages at the foot of the mountains,
going round a projecting ridge of which Ave found an
atrocious road of Avater and stones, which took us to
the gates of Tripoli, a large and ancient-looking town,
strongly built of stone, with numerous streets and bazaars.
It is celebrated for its oranges and lemons, caravans of
Avhich are sent from here to Aleppo, Damascus, and
Jerusalem, as Avell as to the other tOAvns in Syria. We
proceeded to the house of our native Consular Agent
and Avere ushered into a handsome hall, in the form of
a cross paAred with marble, Avith a lofty dome over the

174 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
centre. We amused ourselves, while waiting the OAvner's
arrival, examining the names carved on the walls, and I
was much affected at finding amongst these the name of
that talented and intrepid traveller, Davidson, Avho fell
a victim to his spirit of enterprise Avhen crossing the
Sahara, in an attempt to reach Timbuctoo. About this
time four years ago I met him at Mogadore in Morocco,
and Avas one of the last persons to shake hands Avith him
when he left the coast on his perilous and eventually fatal
expedition. He had travelled in Egypt and Syria, Avhere
there was a settled Government, with tents, baggage, etc.,
and he thought he could do the same in this wilderness,
where every man is his OAvn master. From the account
we received of his fate, it would appear that he was the
victim of the jealousy of two chiefs. Poor Davidson had
paid a large sum in dollars to a Sheik of the Woled Abo-
Sebah, who lived to the south of the river Noon, bordering
the African desert, for protection through his country, and
a promise to fonvard him across the desert through his
friends. But the Sheik of El Harib, a tribe who have
a bad reputation even amongst the Arabs, and the same
that endangered Caillie on his return, wishing to injure
his rival, and blacken his name as not able to protect his
guest for whose safety he was pledged, sent a party to
intercept him, who treacherously shot him from behind,
when he suspected no danger. A JeAv servant and a freed
negro, whom he had brought from Jamaica, Avere spared ;
but his effects were all carried off.
I think it much more probable that the cupidity of the
roving tribes was excited by the report of Davidson's Avealth,
from his spending lavishly whilst travelling in Morocco,
and paying so high for a safe conduct; and, imagining
that he had much property with him, the Sheik of El
Harib attacked him for the sake of the plunder, probably
with the connivance of the Sheik of Wed Noon, Avho
would share the spoil, although it might have endangered
his interests to have taken any active part in the affair.
The Sheik of Wed Noon is more within reach of the

SYRIA. I75
power of the Sultan, from the extensive commercial
dealings of his tribesmen in the seaports of Morocco.
HoAvever this is only an hypothesis, as the Sheik bore
a good character, but an Arab is like a tamed leopard,
you never know hoAv far you can trust him ; particularly
Avith the certainty of impunity in a country where I myself
Avas present, Avhilst tAvo respectable men were joking and
laughing Avhilst settling, without any concealment, the
share each should contribute of a sum of money (about
thirty dollars), to be paid for having another man assassi
nated for a blood feud.
There are two Avays of reaching the Niger from Morocco;
one as a mendicant, Avhich Caillie accomplished ; the other
by accompanying the regular caravan across the great
desert as a merchant, when you are only exposed to the
same risks from heat, etc.,. as others. I am convinced
I could have visited Timbuctoo in this manner with the
greatest ease : but from the accounts of the natives who
had returned from it, there Avould appear little to repay
the hardship and fatigues of the journey, except the
satisfaction of being able to say, " I Avas there ! " They
describe it as a large extent of huts of Avattle and mud,
the only houses in the place belonging to the Moorish
merchants, Avho have settled there, for the sake of trade,
and built houses for themselves.
After this digression to the centre of Africa, retournons
a Tripoli, Avhere Ave remained three days, until the rain had
a little abated, enjoying the hospitality of the Consul, who
was a Levantine. The ladies wore the same% dress as at
Aleppo, but more overloaded Avith ornaments, the braided
hair behind being matted Avith gold coins; some could not
have had on less than £50 Avorth, besides pearls, etc.
The orchards in Avhich the oranges are cultivated are
outside the town, but not perceivable till you come close
to them, being sunk as it Avere in pits, so that the tops
of the trees are level Avith the surrounding ground. There
are numerous other gardens, and a long walk brings you to
the harbour, Avhere there is a small town called the Marina,

176 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
composed of store houses, counting houses, timber yards
and a feAv shops. There were a great many large fishing
boats lying up on the beach, and others building, and
numerous stone pillars Avere lying about, giving evidence
of the fall of some place of greater antiquity. The
promontory on Avhich this echelle is built has been Availed
off, and fortified on the land side, and there are a great
many ruins of walls and toAvers bordering the beach.
From the Marina the vieAv of Tripoli is very fine, seen
across a fine placid sheet of water forming an inner bay,
on the opposite side of which is a ruined castle on an
island : a margin of reeds and trees lines the shore beyond,
above which rises the town, surmounted by a castle and
the minarets of seven or eight mosques : behind this rises
the high straight ridge of Mount Lebanon, striated hori
zontally Avith snow. The situation of the toAvn is very
beautiful. A considerable trade is carried on here Avith
Marseilles and other Mediterranean ports.
December 19. — The myrmidons of the Consulate tried
hard to victimize us in procuring horses, but they had not
beginners to deal Avith, and after some trouble we succeeded
in getting pretty Avell mounted. We had not been two hours
on the road, hoAvever, before the storms again commenced,
and as the road Avound along the coast, we had the benefit
of an unimpeded gale, the rain beating horizontally. We
passed Callimone on the coast, and Shik a Shika and
several other villages on the heights to the left, Avhich are
inhabited by Maronites. At sunset, Ave crossed an abrupt
rugged pass over a mountainous headland, the hills on
either side rising in rocky terraces. After descending
the opposite declivity, whilst plunging through a slough
of Avater and marsh, the moon suddenly emerged from
a mass of black clouds, and revealed a most romantic
scene. In the centre, betAveen the jaAvs of a steep
mountain gorge, rose abruptly a tall craggy pinnacle
of rock croAvned Avith a ruined castle; this picturesque
building seemed to be a continuation of the rock on Avhich
it was built; round its foot boiled a mountain torrent

SYRIA. I77
SAVollen by the rains, rushing under a narrow bridge without
parapets. By moonlight, with black stormy heavens, the
scene was wild and imposing ; hoAvever, I did not
experience so much pleasure in crossing the torrent,
as in contemplating it as part of the vieAv. The above-
mentioned bridge would have ansAvered the purpose of
Al Sirat, but instead of being level, the two sides formed
nearly a right angle, meeting at a point Climbing over
this by the uncertain light was nervous Avork ; for it was
not even Avide enough for two to pass each other. This
eyrie is called Kalat el M'selha. I soon afterwards stopped
at Batrone, six hours from Tripoli, and lodged in a long
gloomy khan or tunnel on four massive arches. I slung
my hammock across the corner of this gloomy vault,
while the Greek, Avho filled the office of khanji, procured
me some fried eggs, and I made myself comparatively
comfortable. One learns on these journeys how very little
food a man can live on.
December 20. — BetAveen this and Acre, the wayfarer
passes a number of sheds and hovels, kept by Greeks, who,
as he approaches, assail him with tempting inducements
to halt, in the shape of fresh eggs, grilled fowls, pillaus,
and other powerful sedatives, which, if he does not stop his
ears, are likely to make him forget his day's march. These
places Avill also afford a shelter at night in case of necessity.
The road to-day Avas stony, over the Ioav cliffs by the
seaside. On reaching Gebail, the ancient Byblus, I left
the horses outside and Avalked through the tOAvn : it is
surrounded with high dark walls : the interior is half in
ruins, and its only street full of mud. Some massive
stone columns Avere strewed about among the-ruins, and,
finding nothing more of interest, I went on, and soon
after crossed Nahr Ibrahim ; this stream is spanned by a
single arch of great breadth and elegance: the upper
walls and parapet are broken away, nearly to the shell
itself, which gives it the appearance of great fragility:
there is another small arch, which is only full during
floods. The banks of the stream are lined with trees,
AOL. 1. 12

178 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
and the rose-laurel or oleander, and through the bridge
the peaks and SAvells of the mountain are seen rising in
rich luxuriance. The scenery improves here as the
mountains approach the coast ; but I Avas not long allowed
to enjoy it, as the rain again came doAvn in torrents, and
I was at length compelled to take shelter in one of the
refreshment shops before mentioned from the fury of the
storm. The sky having cleared off, I resumed my march, and,
after doubling a bluff headland, came suddenly on the
beautiful bay of Djouni. The swelling slopes of Kesrouan
floAV gradually upward from the margin of the Avater to the
peaks of Lebanon, crowned with the houses and villages of
the Christians and Druses, with here and there a convent
gleaming clear and white against the dark foliage : on the
opposite horn of the bay, on the acclivity of the hill, rose
the village of Djouni, partly hidden by trees and groves of
firs : the delicate blossoms of the cyclamen hung floAvering
from their variegated tufts in the crevices of the rocks, and
the butterflies sported their little day in the glorious sunset,
under which the waves had lulled to a murmuring ripple.
It seemed as if summer had burst from her icy prison to
snatch another garland from the iron grasp of her tyrant.
As I sauntered along, enjoying the loveliness of the view,
I had forgotten my rest, and night overtook me by the
time I had passed the south end of the bay, and I was
still eighteen miles from Beyrout. The road Avas noAV too
rugged to push on very fast : hoAvever, I reached Nahr el
Kelb, flowing out of a steep gloomy mountain pass, the
sides of which Avere so steep that the air struck cold, like
going into an underground vault on entering it. I after-
Avards heard that the cliffs of Nahr el Kelb were full of
Egyptian sculptures and inscriptions, and I regretted much
having lost the opportunity of seeing them. Crossing
over a bridge, I could just distinguish, by the expiring
tAvilight, the appearance of an aqueduct or other excava
tions cut in the right-hand cliff. A shed on the other
side of the bridge Avas occupied by people and cattle,

SYRIA.

179

which I Avas not sorry for, as it was too cold and damp
to sleep in Avithout taking a fever, and I ascended the
opposite cliff by steps cut in the rock, and at last took
refuge in a Greek shop after nine hours' riding. A pillau
made with samin (or Avhat in England would be called
rancid butter), and a duck, which I had shot on the road,
roasted, made me quite a feast, and I Avas fain to be
content with my quarters. The morning of the 21st was
fine, and I arrived in three hours by roads knee-deep in
mud, rendered worse by the constant passage of cattle,
at Beyrout, a large place Avith extensive uncovered bazaars
and ill-paved streets. As I wished to see something of
the people, I put up in an upper room, in a large khan
called the Kassaria. The loAver part of the building was
entirely occupied by silk-merchants, Avho were sitting in
their respective stores, reeling, twisting or spinning their
silks, when not attending to customers, and surrounded
by skeins and fabrics of all colours. They make a great
variety of ornamental silk-work, as braids, cords and
tassels, purses, embroidered belts and horse trappings.
In the centre of the court-yard greAV an immense mulberry
tree, an appropriate ornament for a silk bazaar.
I found here the same niggardliness and Avant of
hospitality as I had experienced on the part of our
other English Consuls in the Levant I regret this only
for the sake of the English name ; on my own account
I am not sorry for it, as it will obviate any scruples I
might have felt in making a feAV remarks on our Consular
system, which might have been an 'invidious task had
I experienced kindness from any of its members. For a
commercial and colonial nation like England, the-Consular
establishment is its political frontier, and the individual
situation of consuls of the greatest importance as regards
our relations Avith foreign powers. Through them intelli
gence is transmitted affecting the safety of our political
and commercial interests, and through them, as the repre
sentatives of the nation, are negociations transacted and
differences settled. This Avould seem to imply the necessity

ISO FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
of employing men of talent and experience in situations
of such consequence, and yet the neglect of this branch
of the service is notorious, to the great injury of our
commercial and political interests. Any man Avho has
a claim either private or public, Avithout respect to fitness
or qualification, is considered good enough for a Consul ;
and this carelessness, added to the common practice of
appointing native Agents, Avho seldom do us much honour,
has gone far tOAvards causing the name of a British Consul
to be despised abroad. Again, our men in office at home
are so much engrossed in party politics and struggles for
power, that they can spare little time to attend to the
details of our foreign relations or inclination to support
their agents in maintaining the dignity of the nation
abroad, or the privileges of their countrymen. The
Consuls-General are instructed to compromise insults,
hush-up complaints, and give the Government as little
trouble as possible, Avhich orders they transmit to their
subordinates ; the consequence of which is, that the British
name is no longer respected, and our flag, in many instances,
insulted, as foreigners have discovered that it can be done
with impunity.
What is the cause of the success of Russia in her
aggressive diplomacy? She employs clever men as Agents,
who are to be met with in every quarter of the globe,
and who are expected to fonvard, instead of to conceal,
the intelligence they may obtain. What is the cause of
the fast-rising name of the United States ? They Avatch
over their growing influence, are jealous of the violation
of their national rights, assert reparation for insult Avith
firmness, and are respected.
The different Agencies on the coasts of Turkey are in the
hands of natives, who carry on a disgraceful traffic in British
protection ; they keep large establishments of Tergemens
and chouashes, Avho pay high for their situations, paying
themselves in return by fleecing travellers, monopolizing
the hire of horses, and selling protection in a smaller
way. The persons thus buying protection call themselves

SYRIA. 181
consular dependents, and cannot be taken for debts or
punished for minor offences, and the people are afraid
to offend them, dreading the Consular vengeance, and thus
the British name is made to screen crime. Many of our
Consuls are entirely controlled by unprincipled interpreters,
who have obtained an ascendancy over them by making
themselves necessary; and the fact of tAvo brothers hold
ing the situation of chief Dragoman to the English and
Russian Embassies at Constantinople needs no comment,
and has been often noticed. -I must, however, give the
native Agents credit for more hospitality than the English
Consuls. Some time ago the Consular body at Alexandria took
upon themselves to concoct and publish twelve articles
for the regulation of Consulates in Syria, Avhich superseded
the existing treaties and capitulations, and an Austrian
Commissioner Avas sent over by this anomalous body to
see its provisions carried into effect. To this official it
was expected the British representatives would submit
their authority and the concerns of their subjects, while
one of the stipulations required that any affairs with the
government Avere to be transacted through the medium of
Suleiman Pacha, a Frenchman in the Egyptian service,
who, of course, has the interests of his OAvn country most
at heart, for Avhich no one can blame him, but in the
meantime ours Avould be sacrificed. While on the subject,
hoAvever, I cannot avoid noticing the spirited conduct of
Mr. Young, our neAvly-appointed Vice-Consul at Jerusalem,
who has succeeded, although unsupported, in overcoming
the many difficulties which were thrown in the way of
his remaining there by the local authorities^ and _the
natives, and has at length established himself on a secure
footing by asserting his rights Avith firmness, and support
ing the honour of his country.
In France the Consular establishment is, like any other
service, on a system of gradation ; every person Avho enters
it being obliged to begin at the lowest grade of Chancellier
or Office Secretary, from Avhich their promotion continues

1 82 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
in course of time, and they form part of the diplomatic
body, rising according to their talents.1
The 22nd being Sunday, I attended service at the
American Mission, where they educate a great number
of the native children, twenty or thirty of whom Avere
present. This is of great benefit to the merchants and
other Europeans residing here, Avho, oAving to their know
ledge of English and accounts, employ these pupils as
head servants and commercial clerks. These missionaries
at first settled and carried on their work in Mount
Lebanon among the native Christians, but interfering
too much Avith doctrinal points, they excited the jealousy
of the native clergy, who accused them of proselytizing,
and eventually obliged them to retire to the town.
It would be uncommon for a traveller in Syria to pass
Djouni without mentioning that extraordinary woman,
who has been so long the heroine of its mountains, and
I shall probably be the last, as I can but record her burial.
Lady Hester Stanhope has gone to her long home, may
she rest in peace ! When intelligence was brought of her
decease, the Consul repaired to her residence in the
mountains, Avhere he found the body laid out in a small
darkened room, covered Avith a sheet and a single candle
burning at the head and feet, partially lighting the forms
and features of her Arab servants and dependents who
surrounded the remains of their mistress. She was buried
1 Since writing the above I fell on the following pertinent remarks in Col.
Pasley's Military Policy : " If anything can be lamented or reprobated in our
own system of foreign affairs, it is that we have too frequently seen, acting in
the capacity of British agents abroad, men either without knowledge of any
kind; or who, if they have possessed any knowledge of commerce, have
confined it merely to speculations for their own private advantage. Some
of them, one would think, had not the proper use of their eyes : for when
our generals have consulted them, previous to landing in a country where
they had passed half their lives, they have been unable to give any account
of it. That such things have happened will, I believe, be allowed by most
officers of experience in the army. It is a point of duty with the authorized
resident in a foreign country to make observations, for even without positive
instructions to that effect, he ought to be prepared to answer all questions
that may be put to him, and neglect of duty either from want of zeal or
capacity is culpable."

SYRIA.

183

in her garden, at her own request, by the American
mission. Her effects Avere sold by auction. I saw the
famous horses she had prized so much : the one Avith the
deformed hollow back Avas bought by an Arab for £2 or
£3 ; the other, a Avhite mare, Avas a beautiful creature, but
had not been out of the stable for 17 years : it was bought
by the Consul for j£u or £12.
Finding I was not altogether well accommodated in
the Kassaria, I moved to an auberge kept by an Italian,
and frequented by foreign merchant-skippers, Custom-house
officers, and others of the same class, which was little better,
and the fare as bad as need be.
Being the chief sea-port in Syria, Beyrout is crowded
and populous. In addition to the usual variety of costume,
the Druse women have been often noticed, their veils being
supported by horns of filagree silver, a foot and a half
long. From all I can learn, I am inclined to believe that
the religion of the Druses, which they endeavour to keep
secret, is an idolatrous system synonymous with, or very
nearly allied to, Brahminism. I have heard that the Druses
pretend to be descended from the first Crusaders under
Godfrey, but this is very improbable. I do not imagine
that the Scriptural expressions Avhere horns are mentioned
have any fanciful allusion to this costume, as some have
tried to prove ; but, as the Italians say, " Si non e vera e
ben trovato ! "
I think it Avas in Paris that I saAv a steam-engine at work
in a confiseur's shop, grinding chocolate. What would
they say in Regent Street to a camel Avalking round
turning a mill for grinding sugar for making sAveetmeats ?
This I saAv in a confectioner's shop in Beyrout. 
It is astonishing the immense number of stone pillars
of the ancient Berytus which are to be seen here. The
foundations of the quays at the water-side are composed
of these pillars, laid in rows ; and the jetty, or breakwater,
enclosing the inner port for small craft, is also formed of
these massive stone columns, laid horizontally on each
other : the opposite side of the port is protected by a

1 84 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
gloomy-looking castle, Avhich runs out into the sea, and is
approached by a ruined passage on arches.
The cruelty of the Governor of Beyrout, Mahmoud Bey,
is a commentary on the vaunted improvement of the
Government under Mohammed Ali, and is equal in atrocity
to the most unblushing acts of tyranny committed under
the Turkish despotism, by the principles of Avhich this
country is still governed. Under some pretext, which is
never wanting, but really for the purpose of extorting a
large sum of money, a Christian saraff was thrown into a
dungeon and loaded Avith chains, with the addition of an
iron spiked collar, a chain from which was passed through
the grate of the cell, which the sentry, or other person
employed, had orders to jerk continually, until the wretched
victim consented to pay the money. He was fastened in a
position which prevented his moving, and this lingering
torture was persevered in for several months, until it
fortunately came to the knowledge of the European
residents, who immediately combined to put a stop to
this outrage on humanity : and, on their representation,
the Pacha caused the man to be released, and his case to
be fairly investigated.
Our servant, Giorgio, hearing of the length of our intended
journey, lost heart, and refused to proceed any further : we
accordingly discharged him, and did not procure another
in his place. He was a ready-witted, intelligent fellow,
and though at times insolent, in many respects superior
to the rest of his class ; as he observed of himself Avith
comparative truth, in allusion to the well-known character
of his countrymen in the Levant, " Ben che son Greco,
son uomo onesto." He spoke Turkish and Arabic, pass
ing himself off among the unsophisticated villagers as
a Mussulman : he had been of great use to us thus far,
but, as Ave had parted with our horses and lightened our
luggage, a servant would noAV have been more an en
cumbrance than an advantage.
The Europeans here associate very little together, being
at enmity with each other, and divided by petty jealousies,

SYRIA. j.85
a common evil of small societies, and of more frequent
occurrence in the Levant, from the clashing of individual
and national interests. In consequence of this Ave passed
a dull Christmas season, our Consul keeping closed house.
On the 27th Ave left Beyrout, with two hired horses and
driver, following the rugged coast road at the foot of the
Druse mountains, the stronghold of the Emir Beshir, who
is chief of all the mountain tract betAveen this and Sidon.
He resides at Dair el Kammar, and, although nominally
independent, pays a tribute to Mohammed Ali on account
of his having afforded him protection Avhen the Sultan
endeavoured to take his life. He governs 1200 villages,
and can bring a large force of horsemen into the field. He
is said to have no avowed faith, but temporises, changing
his profession to suit his political interests.
The mountains on the left have a grand and imposing
effect under a lowering sky. After marching six hours,
we stopped at a large khan, Avhich we occupied in common
with muleteers, horses, and mules. The night was very
cold, and one of the inmates brought a large pile of wood,
which he proposed igniting in the centre of the floor ; but
not Avishing to be smoked out, we prevented this, and made
ourselves Avarm in bed, and Ave Avere no sooner asleep than
they substituted a heap of charcoal, the smoke from Avhich
would not disturb us. The next morning I aAvoke Avith
a splitting headache and nausea, Avhich I attributed to
a bilious attack, little thinking of the actual cause; and
although Ave used charcoal all the Avay to Jerusalem, during
the whole of Avhich time I was unwell, it was not till then
that I discovered the real cause, and nearly paid dear for
the experience.
The next morning it rained unmercifully, and we entered
Sidon (Saida) in three hours, and found quarters at the
house of a Greek. The town is situated on an elevated
promontory, backed by green hills, spurs of the Lebanon.
The interior is gloomy and half in ruins : you find here
nothing to remind you of its former grandeur: the few-
streets are narroAv and intricate, and the population scanty.

1 86 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
A few truncated stone columns are scattered about, and
the ruins of a castle, said to have been built by Louis IX.,
of modern style, attest the sway of the Crusaders, and
serve now to add a picturesque charm to the view.
Hearing that Suleiman Pacha resided here, we called
on him, and he insisted on our remaining and dining Avith
him. His real name is Anselme Seves, but having pro
fessed Mohammedanism, he has raised himself by his
talents and perseverance to the rank of Major-General
in the Egyptian army, which, in fact, he organized himself.
In the French service he entered the Navy at twelve years
of age, where he served five years, and then removed to
the Hussars in 1807 : he served in the campaigns of 1809
in Austria, 18 12 in Russia, 1813 in Germany, and 18 14
in France: after fourteen years' service he was made a
sous-lieutenant, and in 18 14 was only a lieutenant of
chasseurs, when, despairing of promotion, or for some
other reason, he retired to Egypt and offered his services
to Mohammed Ali, by whom he was employed mining and
excavating ruins in the interior : hoAvever, having con
vinced the politic Pacha of the advantage and feasibility
of establishing a regular army, and obtained his permis
sion, he commenced his experiments in drilling, which
succeeded so well that more hands were required and
sent for, and the present disciplined army was raised under
French, Italian, and Turkish officers. One of his cavalry
regiments, which I had not an opportunity of seeing, is
equipped in a cuirassier uniform, with a Phrygian helmet,
the peak of which is terminated by a steel plate, which
guards the nose.
Suleiman Pacha is noAV a hale veteran of fifty-two, and
a thorough Frenchman ; Napoleon is his idol : one of his
rooms is entirely hung with his portraits and prints of scenes
from his life : at the upper end of the room is a large
bust of the Emperor, croAvned Avith a laurel wreath, and
surrounded by a trophy formed of the standards and arms
taken from the Turks at the battle of Nezib, placed there,
as he says, " pour faire homage a Napoleon." The rooms

SYRIA.

187

are papered Avith designs of groups of all the arms under
Avhich he has served in the French army, which form a
very elegant pattern.
He Avas dressed in the Egyptian uniform, in Avhich I
believe consists the whole of his Islamism, as his table
Avas excellent, with abundance of wine and liqueurs ; there
were, besides ourselves, a French doctor and an old
camarade-d'armes, who had come to pay him a visit in
Syria, and he and the old general talked over their cam
paigns and recapitulated their several exploits of former
days, and Ave spent a very entertaining evening. Alluding
to the Eastern question, he said they Avere equally prepared
for peace or war, that is, with the Turks, for he Avas not
positive how his men might withstand European troops.
He Avished us to stay with him for a longer period, and
was extremely kind and obliging ; and as kindness of
heart shows itself mostly in trifles, I cannot help men
tioning that, knowing I was indisposed, he very con
siderately sent me a supply of Eau de Cologne before
starting. He is building a new and extensive residence
at Saida, supposing that affairs in the East are now settled.
The environs of this place and Tsoor Avere lately infested
by the Mutualis, a tribe of mountaineers who call them
selves Soofis. They inhabit the southern districts of
Lebanon, and are the dread of their neighbours, from
their reputed deeds of cruelty and atrocity. They
threatened to plunder these tOAvns ; but the Emir of the
Druses being applied to by the Pacha, he succeeded in
dispersing them, and the roads are noAV again open.
December 2p. — It is nine hours* march from Saida to
Tsoor, and as we did not leave till midday, Ave had-to per
form a great part of this after midnight, Avhich was rendered
more unpleasant by rain, and from our having to cross
marshes ; nearer the toAvn the road wound along the sandy
beach. We passed the Avreck of a vessel half-buried in the
sand, the ribs of Avhich rose like spectres in the gloom, and
a jackal skulked silently away from the water's edge, where
he had been searching for fish or any prey the Avaves

1 88 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
might throAV up. At length, when nearly close to it, Tyre
loomed black on our longing sight against the western
sky ; but on reaching it, Ave Avere mortified to find the
gates shut : for, although an insignificant place, it is sur
rounded by a Avail as a protection against the plundering
mountaineers. After clamouring for some time,. the guards
were induced to open their gates, and admit us, and Ave
Avandered through the narrow dark bazaars, the guards
of Avhich could not leave their posts to shoAv us our road,
and every one else Avas asleep ; so Ave Avere obliged to
make a noisy attack on the door of the most respectable
house we could discover, which brought a whole family
to an upper window, who vented their astonishment in
voices of every key, at being so unseasonably disturbed.
At length one of them was persuaded to come down and
conduct us to the house of the native British agent, where
we were well received and treated with great hospitality.
The next day the rain Avas incessant and overpoAvering,
and it continued for three successive days, during which
it was impossible to attempt to proceed, and as I Avas
very ill, we considered ourselves fortunate in being in such
good quarters. The first night of our detention, as Ave
were sitting round the fire, a commotion outside gave
notice of the arrival of some more unlucky winter-
travellers, who joined our party, after changing their
saturated garments, and proved to be the celebrated
French painter, Horace Vernet, and tAvo of his pupils.
I had seen his paintings in Paris when a boy, and little
expected to meet him at such a time and place. He is
a small, spare old man, full of spirits and activity, and
very intelligent and entertaining ; he wore the Egyptian
uniform, Avith a large beard and moustachios ; he related
a variety of anecdotes and stories with great humour,
and we were not sorry at having the society of such an
amusing companion during the time we Avere detained
here weather-bound. He had with him a handsome gold-
sheathed SAvord, presented to him by the Emperor of
Russia, with whom he had been on intimate terms. It

SYRIA. iSg
was rather a risk carrying this about Avith him, in case
any of the Arab plunderers had been tempted to relieve
him of his extra baggage, but Avas characteristic, as well
as his case of English duelling pistols, Avhich could not be
of much use travelling : on hinting Avhich, he observed,
"Ma foi, on ne sait jamais ce qui peut arriver !" alluding
to the chance of a single combat. He was on his way to
visit the localities of the battle of Nezib, between the Turks
and Egyptians, Avhich he intended to paint for the Pacha.
During the partial intervals of cessation of the rain, Ave
ventured out to look on the spot where Tyre once stood ;
and, certainly, it required the conviction arising from the
truth of prophecy and the proof of history to believe and
realize that there, where spread the restless waters, formerly
rose the proud city which, for thirteen years, could withstand
the poAver of Nebuchadnezzar, and, afterward, brave the
genius of Alexander, at a time when he was refusing the
sovereignty of Asia, West of Euphrates, offered him by the
Persian monarch.
In calm, clear Aveather, it is said, the ruins may be traced
at the bottom of the sea from a boat, as Avell as the jetties
Avhich formed the tAvo ports ; but, " she has died the death
of them that are slain in the midst of the sea." A feAV
massive pillars among the rocks Avashed by the surf are the
only remains of her former splendour. For tAvo thousand
years the Avaves have rolled over her, and the fisherman noAV
casts his nets in her palaces, Avhich lie deep in a watery
grave. I sat on the sea-shore and contemplated the foam-
crested billoAvs, leaping triumphantly above Avhat once was
Tyre ; and, as I mused on the judgments and fate of the
merchant-city, a voice seemed to come wafted on the wings
of the hoAvling storm that swept over me, " Except ye
repent, ye shall all likewise perish ! " The present town
of Tsoor, occupying a rocky promontory, is of little con
sequence : there are a feAv rather good houses, but, in
general, they are mean and miserable : outside the town
is a remnant of an ancient aqueduct, Avhich brought water
from the hills ; it is nearly buried in the sand.

. 190

CHAPTER VIII.
Palestine.
January i, 184.0. — Hoping it had moderated, we thought
we might brave the weather, and, accordingly, leaving
Tsoor, we continued our pilgrimage ; but, after a boisterous
and wet ride of four hours, were compelled to stop at a
khan, near what is called the fountains of Alexander, some
copious springs here running down to the beach. We slept
here, and marched six hours the next day to Acre, passing
a village named Zib, surrounded by orange-plantations and
crowned by a few palms : this is the Aczib of Scripture.
Near the town is the country villa of Djezzar Pacha, and
some long Turkish aqueducts, which bring water to supply
the place.
St. Jean d'Acre, or Acca, is a large town surrounded by
a Aveak Avail : it is full of troops, and the defences are being
put in repair, as they are not yet certain of remaining
unmolested. The bay is very extensive, the opposite horn
being formed by the bold headland terminating the ridge
of Mount Carmel, under which the few vessels that frequent
the port ride in safety. This place has always been the key
of Syria, and, as Ptolemais, it was a port of importance. It
Avas taken by Baldwin, King of Jerusalem, in 1 1 10. The
Christians were finally driven out of it, in 1296, by Khalif
el Ashraf, eighth Mamlook King of Egypt. It was here
the genius of Napoleon forsook him before the hero of
Acre, and here the Egyptians are preparing for the next
struggle which may convulse the East. They have noAV
two ships of Avar in the bay, and some gun-boats.
The interior of the town is very dilapidated, although
they have been building some new bazaars, and the streets

PALESTINE.

191

are filthy and unpaved. As AA*e scarcely kneAv Avhere to
direct our steps for shelter, a man Avhom we applied to
conducted us to the Convent, an extensive building, part
of Avhich Avas occupied by three Freres, who received us
Avell, and provided us with lodging and food. There are
many of these Convents in Palestine, Avhich are a great con
venience to travellers, who are all Avell received within their
Avails, without regard to their faith/ Avhen they can pay for
their entertainment Poor pilgrims of their own persuasion.
are entertained gratis, according to their rules, varying
from three days to a month : the general fee for those
who can pay is ten piastres, or tAvo shillings, per diem,
for Avhich they are furnished a bed and two meals, which
they may take in company with the monks or in their
own rooms. Following the sandy beach round the bay,
we forded a deep river, sAvollen by the rains, and on
reaching the Kishon Ave found it unfordable, and we were
obliged to SAvim the horses across, passing ourselves and
baggage in a boat In two hours and a half we came to
Kaifa, a small town prettily situated at the foot of Mount
Carmel, where its first slopes rise from the shores of the
bay: a number of palms form a grove to the east of
the toAvn, and add to its picturesque appearance. All the
native consular agents have their flags here, and Kaifa
may be called the port of Acre, the vessels frequenting it
lying at anchor close under shelter of Mount Carmel, the
high southern horn of the bay. The houses being all
inundated by rain on account of the bad construction of
the flat roofs, Ave ascended the mountain and took up our
abode at the Carmelite Convent, on the summit. The
convent is a handsome stone-built edifice, on the extreme
point of the headland of Mount Carmel, overlooking the
bay and town of Acre. To the north, the white houses
of Tsoor and the distant peaks of the Lebanon are visible;
on the other side stretches the Mediterranean, with a
ruined town on the beach partly submerged by the waves.
There was formerly a toAvn near the foot of the mountain,
called Purpurea, from the locality of. which columns are

192

FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.

sometimes brought. The convent, at present, contains
twelve monks, and I imagine feAV visitors would dine with
them from choice, as by their rules they have ahvays
a human scull and bones on the table at meals : they
wear leathern girdles and fast all the Aveek; our OAvn
accommodation was most excellent as Avell as our fare,
the rooms and beds being clean and comfortable, and
the cookery remarkably good. Although the cold at this
season is very severe, this must be a delightful situation
to enjoy the sea-breezes in the summer.

Convent, Carmbl, Bay of Acre.
The Superior is a mild intelligent young man ; he told
us they had suffered much persecution from the Turks,
and that the convent was now under the protection of
the French flag ; he showed us a painting which he said
had been sent him by an English Protestant, who visited
the convent, representing the Coronation of the Virgin,
which had about as much claim to merit in the per
formance as to truth in the conception.
The next morning, being Sunday, I Avas awakened by
the delightful strains of an organ at the morning mass,

PALESTINE.

193

and lay listening to the unexpected sounds Avhich Avafted
me back on the Avings of thought to my OAvn dear native
land ; and in fancy I heard the joyous peals ringing out
from every village spire, and the voice of praise rising
from every heart ; a contrast to this forsaken land, Avhere
the jackal haunts the desolate habitations of man, and the
only voice that is heard is the cry of the oppressed : for
a time I forgot the pleasures of the traveller : gratified
curiosity and the love of enterprise and novelty were
merged in the keen feelings of the exile.
I afterwards visited the chapel of the Convent, Avhich
occupies a large portion of the building ; under the altar
is shown a small cave, or grotto, which they say was
formerly tenanted by Elijah the Tishbite. I Avalked down
the mountain, the weather having partially cleared, spring
ing numbers of red partridge, Avith which the brushwood
abounds. We were told that in hot Aveather serpents are
very numerous and dangerous. There are several caves in
the sides of the mountain as you descend, any of which
may lay claim to having sheltered the prophet. A group
of rocks on the sands were excavated as tombs, in the
same manner as those in Asia Minor. On the shore I
picked up several shells, the fish in Avhich gave out a deep
purple fluid, of Avhich Avas made the famous Tyrian dye.
We remained the day in this interesting locality, to alloAV
the water from the heavy rains to subside from the Ioav-
lands, which were otherwise impassable, and marched the
next morning at sunrise: passing through Kaifa, we skirted
the foot of Mount Carmel, which extends, in a long ridge,
to the south-east ; our road was carpeted with a profusion
of wild anemones, purple, scarlet, and pale blue, -besides
a variety of other small floAvers, but in some places it was
almost impassable. At one place we waded for an hour
through a complete morass, traversing a tract of antique
olive trees, the massive trunks of which were most curiously
gnarled and contorted, and among Avhich we found small
villages of huts. We came to the brook Kishon at a spot
where the prophets of Baal are reported to have suffered :
TOL. I. 13

194 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
and the scene of the sacrifice, higher up on the mountain,
is also pointed out. Following up the stream, we came to
a place where a party Avith donkeys Avere fording : the
water Avas deep and muddy, but yesterday it must have
been unfordable, from the marks of the torrent left on
the bordering trees and banks, which Avere far above the
present level. Crossing the plain, or basin, of the river,
we ascended the opposite hills through tortuous gullies,
past a village called Jeada. Half an hour before reach
ing Nazareth, the pretty village of Mocobey appears on
the right, far down in a dell, embosomed in orange and
olive trees, with a few palms. Nazareth is not visible till
you enter it suddenly by a narrow, rocky gully, from
which you emerge at once into the toAvn ; it is a large,
straggling place, in a basin among the hills, up the sides
of which the houses are built ; the streets are consequently
precipitous, and, now, cut into ravines by the late rains,
were scarcely passable ; it possesses a large convent of
Spanish monks, to Avhich Ave proceeded. Being Twelfth-day,
we met a numerous congregation issuing from the doors
of the church, where they had been attending evening mass.
The majority of the population are Christian, amount
ing to about 4000, Avhile the Arab inhabitants number
only 400 or 500. It is called a journey of six hours from
Mount Carmel, but, from the badness of the roads, it had
occupied us ten hours, and we Avere glad to avail ourselves
of the hospitality of the monks. They still exhibit here
St. Joseph's shop, the original supper-table (which, by right,
ought to be at Jerusalem), the well where the Virgin Mary
went to draAv water, and everything that can be made the
means of plundering the sincere, but deluded, pilgrims. I
give them every credit for their hospitality and charity, but
I cannot overlook their faults, or the hollowness of their
system. The Church is professed to be erected over the scene
of the Annunciation, and, accordingly, under the Altar is
shown the grotto from Avhence the house of Loretto made
its miraculous flight : to the roof of this is attached the

PALESTINE. 195
upper part of a black granite pillar. Overlooking the
miracle, I should like to knoAv what reason there is to
suppose that the JeAvs lived in caves formerly, any more
than at the present day ; for both this dAvelling of Mary
and the stable at Bethlehem are caves in the rock.
Nazareth, being of the same colour as the brown barren
hills which surround it, is not at all picturesque, but its
associations make the locality most interesting ; from
here Ave descended the hills by a precipitous and dangerous
path to the valley of Jezreel. The rocks abounded in
flowering cyclamen : on the left rose above the hills the
conical summit of Mount Tabor, and in front stretched
the plain of Jezreel, bounded on the south by the
mountains of Samaria. This plain, Avhich Ave crossed in
about six hours, is a . rich and fertile soil, and the people
of the villages were occupied ploughing after the rain,
which, hoAvever, had converted the road into a wet ditch,
through which we had to plunge to Jenin, Avhich place
I reached covered with mud, my horse having been
swamped in a quagmire, from which I Avas obliged to
dismount to extricate him. There are several miserable
villages on this plain inhabited by fellahs.
Jenin, on the site of Jezreel, is prettily situated on the
slope of the hills, near the sources of the Kishon; it
is surrounded by some gardens Avith prickly pear, olives,
and a feAV groups of graceful palms : it contains about
100 houses, and the people are almost all Mussulmans.
We could find here no khan or shelter, and the people
asserted that the Mutsellim was absent. This is a
common excuse, at Avhich one cannot be surprised, con
sidering the continual calls for billets made by government
officers, employes, and privileged people, Avhich is a heavy
tax on the villages on the high roads, and which they
naturally endeavour to avoid. At length an old Arab
Avas called, who professed to take in travellers, and in
his house we found a tolerable room ; and a pillau, for
which the next day he expected to be exorbitantly paid.
From Jenin to Nablous is nine hours' march ; the road

196 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
striking into the rocky hills by a narroAv ascending pass.
Following the banks of a small stream, in one hour Ave
passed the village of Cabadie, in a tract of olive planta
tions : winding through the hills, we came in sight of
Tannoor, on the summit of a hill ; I was surprised to see
here the blue thrush, last seen in the south of Europe, and
the rufous-bellied swalloAV Avas numerous. We Avere forced
to make a detour over the heights to the westward of this
village, to avoid the small plains below, which are impass
able, owing to the water with which the soil is saturated, and
which, further south, forms an extensive lake, which is dry
in summer : this may be one of the pools of Samaria, the
site of which place is near here to the south-west We
passed through the olive-woods of Dgeba, extending round
the foot of the hill on which the place is built ; it appeared
a large, straggling village. It Avas the season for gathering
the olives, and the people were all out in the woods ; some
beating doAvn the fruit Avith long poles, others climbing the
trees, and others, Avith the women and children, collecting
the olives as they fell. The women Avear curious orna
ments down each side of the face ; these are scale-plates,
formed of silver coins laid one over the other, like the
scales of a fish.
Continuing our mountainous course, Ave came to the top
of Jebel Nablous, commanding a view of the fine valley in
which the town is situated, and which, from here, has a
fertile appearance, intersected by streams, and the town
surrounded by trees and gardens. These united streams
run down towards the Jordan, which they join near Enon,
where Jesus Avas baptized by John.
This valley is certainly a romantic and beautiful spot,
and forms one of the exceptions to the general desolation
of Palestine. Nablous is a large toAvn superabundantly
watered, Avith long streets of shops and some covered
bazaars. It is backed by high cliffs. The inhabitants
are a spirited race, and gave the Egyptian army under
Ibrahim Pacha much opposition before they were quite
subdued.

X.

PALESTINE. I97
Besides the Mohammedan population, of Avhich I did not
ascertain the number, there are seventy families of Christians
and thirty of JeAvs. There is also here a remnant of the
Samaritans, who have a separate synagogue. It is a
curious fact, with respect to this race, that they never
number more than forty male adults ; if a boy lives and
arrives at manhood, an old man is sure to die, to maintain
the limited number; I could scarcely give credit to the
statement, although assured of its truth on the spot ; it is
generally believed in Syria, and I was afterwards told, by
educated persons, Avho had lived long in the country, that
there could be no doubt on the subject. I Avas unable to
account for this unheard-of barrenness until I met Avith an
extraordinary coinciding prophecy in the latter part of the
9th chapter of Hosea, which this seems to fulfil. On my
return from Jerusalem, I went to the Samaritan synagogue
to obtain a sight of the celebrated Pentateuch, which
is preserved here. I had been told that they generally
endeavoured to avoid showing the original one, by produc
ing a copy of a later date, so I determined to see them both.
On entering the chapel, which is a plain whiteAvashed room,
the Cohen, priest, or Levite, called my attention to the lamp
suspended from the ceiling, Avhich, he said, " Avanted oil ;"
which, of course, I understood as a gentle hint for money
to buy it ; he then produced from a recess a curious
cylindrical case, apparently of brass, Avhich contained the
five books of Moses, Avritten on parchment and rolled
in equal proportions round tAvo rollers ; the ink of this
appeared rather black for the age attributed to its tran
scription ; about 3300 years : they say it Avas written by
Abishua, the son of Phinehas.1
Pretending not to doubt its authenticity, I asked to see
the other copy, Avhich, after some demur, was produced :
1 Basnage gives the title, " L'an 59 de l'Exode 13 ans apres l'entree dans
la Canaan, moi Abishua, fils de Phinees, fils d'Eleazar, fils d' Aaron, j'ai ecrit
cet exemplaire de la Loi." And adds in a note, " Les Samaritans se vantent
de posseder encore cet exemplaire ; mais Huntington les a convaincu d'im-
posture." — Vol. ii. book ii. c. 3.

198 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
it Avas rolled on pins like the former, but the parchment
was not in such good condition, and the ink Avith Avhich
it Avas written was faded and brown ; this Avas stated to
be 400 or 500 years old. I am not a HebreAv scholar, so
cannot decide their relative merits from the character of
the writing ; but from appearances I should say the latter
was the real antique. I inquired if they kept up a cor
respondence Avith any others of their sect in distant
countries. They said they had no intercourse with them,
but they had heard that there Avere Samaritans (called by
them Somarra) at Bunder-bushir (Bushire in Persia) at
Iskelund (?) and in Cashmire.
The toAvn seems populous, and Avell supplied with pro
visions and fruit; the streets are badly paved with round
stones, and, owing to the heavy rains, Avere not in pleasant
walking order. T^eprosy_ is very common, and many
cripples from this cause Avere sitting begging on the
roads near the toAvn gates.
January p. — Leaving this picturesque valley, Ave pro
ceeded through a fertile undulating district ; near the tOAvn
is a fine well of water, overflowing its mouth, where some
natives Avere washing. Jacob's Well is on the mountain to
the left, at the distance of an hour's Avalk, and near where
the ancient Sychar stood (that is, according to tradition).
A great many Avomen were coming to the town, carrying
baskets on their heads, in which were yaourt, burgool,
eggs, fruit, etc. We folloAved the foot of the hills on the
west side of the valley ; on the opposite side, croAvning
the heights, Avere the several villages of Bietfalik, Salim,
Rugib and KhoAverta. Crossing an opposing ridge, Ave
descended into another basin, varied Avith villages ; Yatma,
in a valley to the left, surrounded by olives ; on the hills
to the right Avere Howara, Sawey and Libban ; this latter
place is called a third of the distance from Nablous to
Jerusalem. An old Arab, mounted on a sorry horse,
joined our party from one of these villages, and entered
into conversation, which consisted, on his side, of bitter
complaints of the extortion and oppression of the Govern-

PALESTINE. 199
ment of Mohammed Ali. I AA'as asking him the names
of the different places Ave passed, as he seemed acquainted
Avith the country. "Well, Agha," said he, "its of little
consequence, for in a short time, if this system continues,
there will be neither Bellad or Beit in the land, and we
must either perish or take to tents on the desert, and
abandon our villages, where we are at the mercy of the
spoilers." " But, my friend," said I, " although your taxes
may be rather heavy, I think you must exaggerate the
evils of your condition." "Alia knoAvs it Is too true ; ask
these men : they are Mussulmans," alluding to the mule
teers, for he had no concealment "We have sold our
carpets ; Ave have sold the ornaments of our wives and
daughters, our horses, and hoAv are Ave to meet fresh
demands ? Ave cannot plough, for our children are taken
as soldiers, and none are left to work ; Ave cannot deliver
ourselves from oppression or strike a blow for our own,
for Ave have no arms. Is no one coming to help us ? Why
do the Ingleez alloAV this ? Where are the Oroos? Where
the Sultan of the Franks? Will none assist us to throw
off this Pacha's iron yoke ? Look at that village on the
hill Ave are passing ; it does not contain more than ICO
souls, and Avhat do you think is the amount it pays to the
Government, to be raised from the patch of land you see
in the valley below? By the beard of the Prophet, you
will not credit it ! It pays 30,000 piastres a year in taxes "
(£300 sterling). I believe this was a fact, and, con
sidering the value of money, the imposition Avas most
extortionate ; the Avhole value of the land under cultiva
tion near the village was not more than half that sum.
The country is under the management of the~Mbdar of
Acre, Mahmood Abd el Kadder, who has to pay a large
sum to his superior, Ibrahim Pacha, and then squeezes as
much more as possible from the unfortunate peasantry
on his OAvn account ; the consequence is, the abandonment
of the villages, the inhabitants of Avhich go to the Syrian
deserts, and folloAV a nomad life among the Arabs.
At Bethlehem, the inhabitants of which are all Christians,

200 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
many respectable men came round us to inquire respecting
the state of Eastern affairs ; for, they said, many had already
left the town, and if a change did not shortly take place,
they AA'ould all be compelled to abandon the place, as they
could no longer bear up against the exactions and oppres
sion of the Government.
We passed the large village of Singeel, on the hills to
the right of the road ; Toumasie lying in a holloAv on the
left : through tracts of olive wood. The mistletoe is
abundant on the olive trees ; it is like the European plant,
with the exception of bearing red instead of white berries.
From here the road led through the wild rugged bed of
a mountain torrent, the rocky hills being terraced up and
planted with fig trees. Ascending a steep mountain path,
we passed a large village, Shalwan, inhabited by Christians,
where we repented not stopping, for, pushing on, we were
compelled to sleep at Anabrood, a wretched hole, where
no vacant room could be obtained, and Ave Avere obliged
to share a den Avith a family of fellahs ; the only food Ave
could obtain being a few fried eggs, besides being exposed
to the mercy of unimaginable myriads of vermin ; we had
marched about eleven hours.
The travelling all the Avay from Jenin to Jerusalem
is most tedious and monotonous; the general formation
of the country being a succession of conical rocky hills,
betAveen and over which you are continually winding, as
cending and descending: the soil appears to have been
washed from the hills by the rains, and it is only Avhere
they are terraced up to save the soil, and in the holloAvs,
that there is partial cultivation. A feAv fig and olive trees
are scattered over the country, and, at this season of the
year, it presents a scene of utter desolation, only to
be accounted for, considering the large population it
formerly supported, by the land being under a curse ; since
those days there can be no doubt that the face of the
country has undergone a most marked change; so that
a stranger like myself, from a far land, astonished at all
her plagues, is compelled to ask, " Wherefore is she thus

PALESTINE. 20 1
smitten ?" Three thousand years ago the prophetic answer
Avas recorded, " Because they have forsaken the covenant
of the Lord God of their fathers ! "
The same hills continued throughout to Jerusalem, pre
venting any distant view of the city until within a mile
and a half of the Avails, so that by the time we came in
sight of it, my eagerness to behold this celebrated spot
had risen to the highest pitch of excitement; the ap
proach to it is through hills composed of debris and
rubbish, the formless ruins of former Avorks and buildings.
The appearance of the toAvn is curious from the immense
number of domes, small and large, which form the roofs
of the houses and mosques ; while the high massive stone
walls and bastions, with the large dome of the Mosque
of Omar, give it an imposing aspect.
Being Friday, as Ave arrived, during the Mussulman
prayer time, we found the gates shut,1 and, until they were
opened, we were obliged to amuse ourselves contemplating
the lofty walls Avhich now surround the place. It was to
the left of this gate that Titus filled up the valley for the
purpose of bringing his engines close to the walls of the old
toAvn, and this is the only side of the toAvn at the present
day Avhere the plain extends to the foot of the walls : on
every other side it is girt by precipitous ravines.
January 20. — What emotions croAvd on my mind as I
write from this halloAved spot, which I have so often longed
to visit, and from Avhence the word of the Almighty went
forth to humanize the world. I feel nearer heaven as
I stand on that ground Avhich once my Saviour trod, that
conscious earth which shuddered Avith horror when daring
man marred the form and wounded the spirit of his God :
and gaze on the hills on which He looked, and touch the
olives under which He sat and dispensed His message of
mercy to an apostate race. Although one stone was not
left on another in the destruction of Jerusalem, Avhen the site
1 Mohammedans have a tradition that their countries will be taken from
them on Friday during prayers, and therefore always close the town gates at
these times.

202 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
was ploughed over and soAvn Avith salt : although a Roman
toAvn Avas afterwards built there, and was succeeded by a
Turkish one; and although the Jewish temple has sunk into
oblivion before the Mosque of Omar ; the Romish priests
have still the audacity to point out to the poor ignorant
pilgrims the situations of most of the incidents recorded
in Scripture, from the sepulchre to the house of the rich
man, at Avhose gate Lazarus sat! But the features of
nature have more interest for me : the everlasting hills
change not : the never-dying olive still rears its gnarled
skeleton frame on the slopes of Mount Olivet, and the
pool of Siloam is still filled from the fountain under Mount
Moriah. As I wandered through these holy scenes, made dear
to my heart by historical reminiscence, spiritual experience
and youthful associations, I felt all my wishes realized,
but I missed the presence of relatives of kindred Christian
spirit to sympathize in my happiness, and I looked with
almost a feeling of envy on a family of poor German
pilgrims, who Avere bowing their foreheads to the cold
rock in the valley of Jehoshaphat ; they had probably
sacrificed their all to visit the Holy City, and had even
brought their children this long journey to share in the
blessing; their way-Avorn garb showed the toils they had
gone through, but it was all forgotten on reaching the
end of their hopes. I can enter into the devotional spirit
of the pilgrim, and I am sorry to see so good a motive so
falsely directed by the agents of Rome, and the credulity
of the poor pilgrims so grossly imposed on for the sake of
gain : their victims being plundered of their little pittance,
and thus deprived of the means of returning to their own
country. The Russian Government, for the sake of its
own name, has at length given orders to their Consul at
Jaffa to make every Russian subject Avho lands, deposit
a sum of money sufficient to pay his expenses home after
his return from Jerusalem ; this, at least, escapes the
fangs of the plunderers, and it is an example that ought
to be folloAved.

PALESTINE. 203
A feAv of the traditional falsities connected Avith Jeru
salem are Avorth noticing, and to begin Avith the supposed
sepulchre.1 Mount Calvary, on Avhich the Church of the
Sepulchre is built, Avas formerly outside the walls, but
noAV forms part of the toAvn ; this church is said to be
built over the scene of the Crucifixion, Avhich Avas the
public place of execution for malefactors ; and yet in the
same church is shoAvn a rude cave, which they pretend is
the sepulchre ; is it to be supposed that Joseph, a rich
man and a councillor, Avould have his tomb at Golgotha,
a place of execution ?
St John, who is the only Evangelist Avho mentions the
locality, says, "In the place where he Avas crucified there
was a garden, and in the garden a new sepulchre ; " and,
again, " the sepulchre Avas nigh at hand ; " so that, although
it might have been in a garden in the vicinity, which is all
this passage can mean, it would be difficult to make one
church cover the two localities ; and that it Avas not on the
same spot Ave see, for Mary followed after those who bore
the body, to be able to find the sepulchre again. Besides
this, the temple of Jupiter was built on Mount Calvary
by the Emperor Adrian, and any such cave as that now
shown Avould have disappeared or been destroyed in
clearing the ground and laying the foundations of this
edifice, so that the cave is most probably a modern
excavation. The next imposition is more bare-faced. On the Via-
Dolorosa, by which Jesus is supposed to have proceeded
to Mount Calvary, they actually shoAV a dent in the wall,
against which he is said to have leaned his cross ! ! This
wall is proved to be about 600 years old, and" could not
have existed until 1200 years after the event it is made to
witness, and yet the misguided pilgrims are obliged to kiss
the spot, and thus, by continual friction, the impression is
more evident ; in the same way has the toe of the metal
1 Since writing this, my attention was directed in 1842 to a passage on this
head in Dr. Clarke's Travels, which I had not before seen, and I find this
traveller came to the same conclusion, on inspecting the localities, as myself

204 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
statue of Jupiter, at Rome, Avhich idol is noAV used to
represent St. Peter, been half worn aAvay by kissing.
Again, in a fertile valley about tAvo miles west of the
city, is a strongly-fortified square building, with high
stone walls, called the Convent of the Santa Croce, in the
interior of which they pretend the tree greAv of which
the cross Avas made. I do not remember what descrip
tion of tree this purports to have been, as only the stump
remains in the ground, but the only trees growing here
now are olive and fig-trees ; nor do I suppose that any
others than these, and fruit trees, greAv in this situation
formerly ; this country has always been destitute of
timber, which was imported from other countries, as in
the time of Solomon : noAV it is not likely that the Jews
would purposely cut down an olive, lemon, or palm tree,
on which to crucify a supposed criminal, but Avould more
probably procure wood for that purpose from the first
timber yard; besides, in the 20th Deuteronomy, there is
an express prohibition against cutting doAvn fruit trees,
even in an enemy's country : the authority of tradition
is cited, but is it to be credited that during the grief of
the disciples at their Master's death, they could have paid
any attention to circumstances of so little moment, and in
which they were in no way concerned, and of which they,
consequently, could know nothing; like the Jews of old,
they make the Gospel of God of none effect through their
tradition. As for the other localities, such as the house
of Pilate, Caiaphas, Mary, the rich man and Lazarus, and
a variety of others, a man must be " under a strong delu
sion to believe a lie," if he can require any proof of
thejr absurdity.
I should not be doing my duty were I not to raise my
feeble voice against these gross frauds, which, although
they may have been noticed before, cannot be too often
repeated and brought to view. Turning in disgust from
this system of falsehood and deception, which the infidel
scoffingly adduces as an argument against all religion, and
of which he makes a handle for the calming of his own

PALESTINE. 205
unsettled conscience and undermining the principles of
others ; Avith Avhat majestic simplicity and divine grandeur
does true Christianity stand forth, untrammelled by the
pall of superstition, but clad in the beauty of innocence!
With an eye calm in the consciousness of truth, and brow
radiant with glory, she looks far beyond these earthly
scenes of darkness and delusion. Holding triumphantly
aloft the closed book of revelation, and pointing down
ward to the open page of history, she defies alike the
subtleties of man's finite reason, the ridicule of infidelity,
and the enmity of the Avorld !
The accommodation for strangers at this place is very
bad : the houses being badly built, the doors and sashes
quite loose, and no protection from the weather. Partly
OAving to this, but principally to the rarefaction of the
air in these southern latitudes, I do not think I ever ex
perienced more intense cold even in England. I have
ahvays found that I could bear a much higher degree of
thermometrical heat in the light air of a southern latitude,
than I could in the denser medium of an English atmo
sphere. In India 8o° is tolerable ; in England it is
oppressive. We remained for some days in a spare house belonging
to our Consul, Mr. Young, and then removed to the Latin
Convent: previous to which, hoAvever, I discovered the
cause of my former illness, and Avhich Avell-nigh brought
our lives and travels to a close at the same time. On
account of the extreme cold, Ave had adopted the plan
of the natives of burning a large pan of charcoal in our
room at night, there being no fireplaces : this is generally
well burnt in the open air before being introduced,- but
it still emits sufficient noxious vapour to produce asphyxia
in a Avell-closed room, and is most dangerous. When we
were called in the morning, we could not lift our heads
from the pillow, from giddiness and racking headache,
accompanied by retching, faintness, and spasmodic pains
in the chest : it Avas fortunate for us that the room was
rather large, and the doors and windows loose, otherwise

206 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
we must have been suffocated ; as it was, we were a long
time recovering from its effects.
The present town of Jerusalem, called Beet el M'kud-
das, is raised on a foundation of ruins and rubbish; it
is principally built of stone : the Convents, which have
extensive possessions Avithin the Avails, are very substantial.
There are the usual covered Turkish bazaars, and a great
extent of intricate, dirty, and inferior streets: in the
eastern part of the town, toAvards the great mosque, are
some massive arched passages, Avhich have the appearance
of greater antiquity, and may have formed part of iElia.
The only other object of antiquity is the remains of a
bridge, which connected Mount Moriah with the city.
Josephus mentions a work of this sort finished by Herod,
when the city was taken by Pompey, but it is more
probable that this Avas part of the Roman city. There
is no doubt it existed before this town was taken by
Omar in A.D. 636, as the wall of the mosque Al Aksa
is built on it : all that exists of this bridge are the abut
ment-stone and spring of the arch, measuring, severally,
25 feet and 20 feet in length. The blocks of stone com
posing the vralls of the town, and the mosque, are of an
enormous size : I measured one in the latter 3 1 feet long,
and some in the walls are much larger. Christians are
not allowed to enter the Mosque of Omar, but the ascent
of the Mount of Olives commands a view into its interior,
which is little different from the generality of these
temples. The hill, on Avhich the toAvn stands, is bounded
on the south and half its Avest face by the valley of
Hinnom, a deep and narrow ravine, forming a bed for
the water from the pools of Gihon, one of which, a large
square tank, still remains, though dry ; on the east side
is the steep rugged valley of Jehoshaphat, forming a
channel for the brook Kedron, Avhich is also dry. On
the west side of this valley is the pool of Siloam in an
artificial reservoir, with a descent of steps to the water.
The lower pool is further doAvn the valley to the south,
and is brought by a subterranean canal from the interior

PALESTINE.

207

of the hill : I tried to penetrate this, but found an iron
grating across the passage. Among the crags, on the
opposite side of the valley, is the village of Siloam, partly
composed of houses and partly of caves and excavations.
ToAvards the head of the valley are several handsome
tombs cut out of the rock, which are of a much later date
than the death of the persons whose remains they are
said to cover. The tomb of Zachariah is a solid block
excavated from the rock, and faced with Ionic pillars. I
do not suppose it is of a more ancient date than the time
of Christ, and it is most probable that these cenotaphs
Avere actually being built at that time, and that, from the
hill Avhere He Avas teaching, our Saviour could see the
progress of the Avork, Avhen He denounced their hypocrisy,
and mentioned Zacharias by name. The tomb of Jehosha-
phat is partly excavated from the rock, the upper part,
of large blocks, terminating in a cone croAvned with a
lotus, being built on to it The vicinity is a favourite
cemetery of the Jews, whose gravestones, bearing long
Hebrew inscriptions, are thickly strewn over the adjacent
slopes : another of these tombs is a recess under an
entablature, supported by four pillars, with a spacious
inner sepulchral chamber. A great number of these
tombs are excavated in the face of the cliffs on the
south side of the valley of Hinnom, Avhere also the potter's
fielcj is pointed out ; and to the north-west of the town,
and supposed to have been formerly Avithin the Avails, are
the extensive subterranean chambers, called the Tombs of
the Kings, which have often been described. There are
seven olive trees in an enclosure, called the garden of
Gethsemane: whether this was the spot or not^I have
no doubt the trees existed long before the Christian era,
the olive tree being almost indestructible; even Avhen the
trunk dies, a new tree springs from its roots. These trees
have the appearance of great antiquity: they are the
largest I have seen, particularly at the roots, which spread
out on all sides in gnarled and knotty forms, but their
foliage is scanty. Near this is a low building, said to
cover the tomb of the Virgin Mary.

208 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
In the village, on the summit of the Mount of Olives,
is the Chapel of the Ascension : from this height you look
down on one side on the city, and to the east stretches
a fine panoramic vieAv of the Avilderness of Judea, the
Dead Sea, and the blue mountains of Moab, rising from
its shores ; a long and deeply marked ridge, the highest
point of Avhich is supposed to be Pisgah.
The population of Jerusalem is an extraordinary mixture
of Arabs, Greeks, Turks, Jews, and monks and pilgrims
from all parts of Europe. The garrison of the place is
composed of Turks in the Egyptian service, who have been
sent here as a punishment for mutinous behaviour ; they
are dreaded by the people, and plunder the peasantry of
their provisions as they enter the gates, and in the markets,
and if they complain, they are beaten in addition. Their
own Commander is afraid of them, and confesses his
inability to check their disorderly conduct. Owing to the
general oppression of the people, and disorganization of
the country, provisions have become scarce, and living
expensive. A Avell-to-do Jew assured me that his family,
which, under the Turkish Government, he could maintain
for 5000 piastres, now cost 30,000 per annum. I visited the
Church of the Sepulchre, Avhich is rather a handsome Gothic
building, in the centre of Avhich is the cenotaph, in all the
beauty of carving, varnish, curtains, and lamps ; to prevent
quarrelling, it was found expedient for each sect to have
its own chapel within the church : in one corner is the
chapel of the Greek Catholics, in another of the Maronites,
in another the Armenians, with a number of others, each
vying Avith the other in the profusion of lamps, tinsel,
and frippery : nevertheless, during the Holy Week the
scenes are most disgraceful among these self-styled
Christians; and a body of Turkish soldiers has much
difficulty at that season in keeping order among the
pilgrims by exercising indiscriminate battery on their
heads with large sticks, to prevent their assassinating each
other; as knives are often drawn and blood shed in the
church. Even now a divan of Turks is sitting inside

PALESTINE. 2C9
the church doors Avhile the people are performing their
devotions, the keys being kept by the Governor. The
Jews Avere under the same surveillance under the Romans.
Josephus mentions in his time : " A Roman cohort kept
guard as usual at the colonnade of the Temple at festivals,
to keep order among the congregated multitudes." The
square before the church, as Avell as the different approaches
to it, are full of people selling mother-of-pearl crucifixes,
models, rosaries, etc., Avhich are principally made at
Bethlehem ; besides immense quantities of beads, made
of a sort of fruit-stone from Mecca ; these are purchased
by the pilgrims, and disposed of on their return to their
own country very profitably.
There are some families of JeAvs scattered through this
country, principally at Jerusalem, Tiberias, and Saffad.
They are not, hoAvever, indigenous, but come here either
as pilgrims, or in consequence of a JeAvish tradition, Avhich
makes them believe that unless they die in the Holy
Land, they must Avork their Avay underground to it, like
moles, after their death. They come from Germany,
Poland, Turkey, and even from England ; the old men
expecting to be gathered to their fathers, bringing their
families Avith them, who often remain in the country:
several hundreds perished during the earthquake Avhich
ruined Tiberias three years ago. The question of the
restoration of the Jews, Avhich has lately excited some
attention, requires to be considered Avith respect to its
political and religious bearings separately: for men, as
bodies, are mostly governed by interest and expediency,
and seldom allow their belief or unbelief to have any
Aveight in their political measures, although, at the same
time, they are only instruments in the hands of Him Avho
ruleth in the kingdoms of men.
I have seen much of the HebreAv nation, and I consider
them, physically and intellectually, as one of the finest
types of the human race, and their present degradation
is only a natural consequence of the state of slavery or
oppression under Avhich they have been groaning for

2IO FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
nearly tAvo chiliads : it is only surprising that after such
an ordeal they should still retain any moral worth, or
even physical identity; but there are still among them
men of talent and great capabilities, and they generally
possess in a high degree the virtues of fortitude, industry,
and perseverance ; their aspirations have been quelled,
their spirits broken, and their feelings embittered under
the thraldom of Mohammedan despotism, the persecu
tions of the civilized poAvers of Christendom, and the
insults of the world ; but, if relieved from these clouds,
the intrinsic nobility of their nature Avould be developed,
and, springing Avith their characteristic elasticity from
the sufferings of ages, they would soon assert a high
rank among the nations of the earth.
Considering the political advantages to us of the re
storation of the Jews, Ave are naturally led to the con
templation of our situation in the Levant Avith respect
to Russia. I do not believe it Avas ever the intention of
this power to enter into an open Avar Avith us, nor (although
there are several available roads to our Indian frontier)
had she any desire to take advantage of them for the
conveyance of troops ; her policy is encroachment on
her neighbours, and compassing her objects with other
Powers, by negociation, duplicity, and intrigue.
By the machinations of her emissaries in the East she
gained her object of plunging us into a bloody and ruinous
Avar, while in Europe she is our faithful ally. No states
man could be deceived by the barefaced trick of their
disavoAval of the authority of their agents or the denial
of their mission, in the case of their intrigues in
Affghanistan. For proof of the SAvamping policy of
Russia, it is only necessary to refer to her successive
aggressions. Before 1800 she shared three times in the
plunder of Poland, and took possession of Ingria, Livonia,
Courland, Krim Tartary, Kabarda and Mingrelia. Since
that she has increased her empire by the annexation of
Finland, Bessarabia, Immeritia, the territory from the
north of the Caspian to the frontiers of China, and taken

PALESTINE. 211
Georgia from Persia. She has crossed the Aras, and is
now anxious to appropriate the rich and beautiful
countries of Asia Minor ; nor will she stop there unless
we establish some check on her further progress soutlnvard.
The Caucasian tribes might have formed a barrier, but
they have all fallen, Avith the exception of the independent
Circassians, and these Ave have abandoned to their fate.
Turkey cannot protect itself against aggression ; and Egypt
has returned to its original insignificance. The mountain
tribes of Koordistan would form like Circassia a stationary
check on her encroachment, but could not be depended
on. Where then shall Ave find a people sufficiently en
lightened to act under good counsel, and united among
themselves by every tie of religion, patriotism, and
nationality? Does not the finger of time, the voice of
prophecy, and the feeling of Europe point to the HebreAv
nation ? The restoration of the JeAvs to Palestine under
British protection would retrieve our position in the
Levant, and give us a commanding station from whence
to counteract the designs and check the progress of our
northern rivals, and Ave should then have an ally in
Syria capable, with our assistance, of overaAving, and if
necessary repelling their advances on the Mediterranean.
The Jews have, through the lapse of ages, kept their
attention fixed on Palestine, to which they never doubt
of returning, and their gratitude to their liberators and
restorers would be unbounded, at the same time that
they could not by any possibility gain by turning
against us.
But taking the subject in its religious bearings, I would
ask the Christian : Is not the sacred language of prophecy
bursting Avith the germs of coming events ? Does not
every page teem with promises of the restoration of Israel
to their OAvn land in language too plain to be misunder
stood ? We may refuse to be the willing instruments,
but what is spoken will as surely come to pass, whether
we bear or Avhether Ave forbear. It is objected by many
men of Avorth and intelligence that this restoration is

212 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
conditional on their conversion to Christianity (or rather,
to a belief in the coming of Christ in humiliation). Sup
posing Ave take this view of the case, what means do Ave
employ to compass this desirable end ? If Ave do not
despise their persons, we shock their prejudices and deny
their scriptures : I say, deny their scriptures ; for I consider
the principal obstacle to the conversion of the JeAvs arises
from a want of faith in the whole of the Scriptures, on the
part of the persons Avho are most anxious for such an
event. As the Jews stumble at Christ crucified, so they,
falling into the opposite extreme, make a stumbling-block
of Christ glorified : for I have always found, in conversing
with the JeAvs, that although they could not remove the
stumbling-block of the cross, their arguments draAvn from
the Scriptures with respect to their final restoration to
their own land, under a king who should sit on the Throne
of David, Avere utterly unanswerable by any one, Avho,
instead of taking a broad comprehensive vieAv of the
prophecies in their literal, as Avell as spiritual sense, is
contented Avith taking advantage of the numerous pro
phecies which have been evidently and literally fulfilled,
for the sake of his own argument ; and then spiritualizing
aAvay all the rest which are quite as minute, insomuch that
they almost appear to have been written after the facts
predicted : as if any part of the revelation of God Avas
written in vain, or any word of it could fall to the ground.
If you draw the attention of the Israelite to the 53rd
chapter of Isaiah, coupled Avith the prophetic dates of
Daniel, Micah, etc., he will be compelled to acknowledge
that the time fixed for the coming of the Messiah is past,
and probably account for His not coming (as they have
often done to me) by reason of their sinfulness ; at the
same time they will refer you to the innumerable passages
Avhich foretell their restoration, exaltation, and the glorious
advent of the Messiah, and if you attempt to explain
aAvay any such clear evidences, you Avould be deservedly
laughed at by the Jew, Avho, at the same time that he
attaches a spiritual sense to the prophecies, points Avith

PALESTINE.

213

the confidence of conviction to Idumea, Tyre and Sidon
Egypt and Babylon ; and Avhen he turns a sorroAvful look
on the land of his fathers, and sees Jerusalem destroyed,
her sanctuaries defiled and trodden doAvn of the Gentiles ;
his nation a curse and a byeAvord, and scattered among
the heathen ; is it not mockery and folly to tell a man
with all this before his eyes that the Avord of God is not
literal? If Ave Avould convert the Jews, Ave must believe
in the whole Bible, else the Israelite, possessing that faith
in the Avord of the God of his fathers, stands on a com
manding eminence, and Avields over us a power of evidence
which Ave vainly endeavour' to resist
There is, in general, great ignorance of the Scriptures
among ourselves; men content themselves Avith discover
ing the correctness of some fundamental points of doctrine
on Avhich their belief is founded, and then do not think
it worth their Avhile to care about prophecies relating
to other people, or the Avorld in general ; or, if forced on
their attention, they do not believe them, because their
finite reason cannot comprehend.them. But what difficulty
there can be in believing the plain statements relative to
the re-establishment of Israel, I confess I cannot under
stand. Let any man read the Bible as an Israelite; as
one of that nation to Avhom its revelations Avere addressed,
and Avho have been the depositaries of the sacred revela
tion : let him divest himself of all educational and national
prejudices, and realize to himself that he is a Hebrew of
the Hebrews, and then let him search the Scriptures in
faith, as the Truth revealed by the Spirit of God ; and
he will be astonished at the flood of light that will pour
in on his mind, before narroAved by bigotry and prejudice,
and he will no longer be surprised that a Jew will not
receive the testimony of one Avho does not believe in all,
as Avell as in a part of the Word of God.
" The remnant shall return, even the remnant of Jacob,
to the Mighty God. For thus saith the Lord Avhich giveth
the sun for a light by day, and the ordinances of the
moon and stars for a light by night," etc. "If those

214 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
ordinances depart from before Me, then the seed of Israel
shall cease from being a nation before Me for ever. I
will lift up my hand to the Gentiles, and set up my
standard to the people ; and they shall bring thy sons in
their arms, and thy daughters shall be carried on their
shoulders," etc. " I will take thy children from among
the heathen, whither they be gone, and will gather them
on every side, and bring them into their own land. And
they shall dAvell in the land that I have given unto Jacob
my servant, wherein your fathers have dwelt, and they
shall dwell therein, even they, and their children, and
their children's children, for ever," etc "And they shall
say, This land that was desolate is become like the garden
of Eden, and the waste and desolate and ruined cities are
become fenced, and are inhabited." I trust the time is
not far distant when the protecting banner of England
shall Avave from the battlements of Zion over the restored
race of Israel, and the land of their forefathers be re
deemed from the state of desolation and misery to Avhich
it has been reduced, and be blessed Avith regeneration,
plenty, and peace;
The Rabbis of Jerusalem exercise spiritual authority
over the Jews in all parts of the world, from whom they
levy contributions by their agents or travelling priests ;
but, as they cannot ahvays trust these, they sell them
commissions, authorizing them to collect contributions for
the Temple (figurative, I imagine), in particular districts,
for a specified sum. All that these priests can collect
above this sum is their OAvn profit, besides that they are
received and well treated by the Jews Avherever they go.
The priests are not much liked, on account of their
extortions, exacting as they do large sums for burials and
other ceremonies ; but their poAver of excommunication
makes them feared and dreaded. A missionary, Mr.
Nicolaison, a German, resides here : he is maintained by
the London Jewish Missionary Society, and has been ten
years in the place. There is also an American Mission
established here, and services are held and sermons

PALESTINE.

215

preached by them In Hebrew, Arabic, and German.
Some feAV sincere conversions have been made from the
Polish and German JeAA'S, but not so many as I had
expected, considering the time the mission had been
established. From accounts I had read in England, I had been led
to expect that a Protestant church and a hospital had
been built at Jerusalem : an'd vieAvs of the former had been
published for the purpose of raising subscriptions, and I
was rather surprised to find that this was not the case.
A parcel of ground had been purchased, but even the per
mission for the erection -of the building had not been
obtained from the government of the country. The
deception carried on in England, by false reports and
highly-coloured descriptions of success, are quite un
warrantable, and do injury instead of aiding their object;
a good cause requires no such questionable assistance.
A German doctor is attached to the mission, who has
done much good, but is now on the point of leaving, from
ill-health. It is proposed to erect buildings for the recep
tion of the sick, when permission is obtained for this as
well as the church; in the meantime the funds collected
lie idle, or go to pay officials at home. I made an ex
cursion to Bethlehem, about 20 miles south of Jerusalem ;
it is a large picturesque village, the houses of Avhich are
grouped on the summit and slopes of a steep rocky hill,
which then falls in rapid SAveeps to the valley beloAV.
The patches of good land are clothed with hanging olive
woods; to the east rises an extraordinary conical peak,
and in the distance, the blue mountains beyond the Dead
Sea. The Church of the Nativity has a handsome -in
terior, being supported by toavs of Corinthian columns
of granite, probably part of the former temple of Adonis ;
the roof is in a state of dilapidation, and the building
fast going to decay. The Monks think the cave Avhich
passes for the stable of the nativity, of more consequence ;
this is decked with lamps, tinsel ornaments, and offerings.
The inhabitants are all Christians : they manufacture a

2l6 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
large quantity of mother-of-pearl rosaries and models as
before mentioned.
I rode some distance on the road to Hebron, till I came
to tAvo large square reservoirs of Avater called the pools
of Solomon, from whence there is an aqueduct AA'inding
through the hills to Jerusalem. The aspect of the country
is hilly, separated by deep ravines, and valleys clothed
with bruslnvood.
About six miles to the Avest of the city is pointed out
the battle-field of David and Goliath, a bold picturesque
valley, through Avhich Avinds the bed of a torrent nearly
dry ; on the summit of a commanding height is the village
of Colony ; further down the valley to the left is a bridge
Avith some orange gardens.
I rode out one day to obtain a nearer view of the Dead
Sea, following the abrupt Avindings of the brook Kedron,
through Avild and rocky valleys ; sometimes the road led
over high projecting ridges, and at last I reached a spot
from Avhence I could look doAvn on the lower ridges rising
immediately from the near shores of the lake, and a more
complete Avilderness cannot be imagined. Although so
much rain had fallen, the slopes only varied in shades of
broAvn, while the slumbering lake lay like a pool of oil
in the barren basin beloAV, reflecting the deep furroAvs of
the opposite mountains. The scene was grand in desola
tion ; not a" living thing is to be seen, not even the hum
of an insect is heard. As I stood lost in a contemplative
dream formed of shadoAvy memories of the past, the sun Avas
fast declining, Avhen I was aroused by some muleteers Avith
the hint that it Avas not altogether safe to Avander in these
wilds, and that I might be plundered by the Arabs Avho
are said to infest this road. I had not gone more than
half a mile on my return, hoAvever, when I discovered an
Arab camp in a holloAv among the hills, and to see if
there Avere any cause for alarm, I made directly for them,
when, as I expected, I Avas received with nothing but
welcome, and they almost compelled me to stay and break
bread with them. I excused myself by the lateness of the

PALESTINE.

217

hour, and left Avith one of their people to put me in the
right road. As this is the road to Jericho and the Dead
Sea, these reports of the dangers of the way are invented
and kept up by the authorities at Jerusalem and Jericho,
for the sake of making travellers pay highly for an escort
between those places, for which interested motive the
alarm is propagated.
I returned by the same valley, Avhich is scattered Avith
large masses of dark broAvn semi-translucent rock (sulphate
of lime), which, on being burnt into lime, forms a most
beautiful stucco for mouldings and ornamental architecture.
The loAver part of the valley of Jehoshaphat is laid out
in vegetable gardens, Avhich are watered by the springs
from Mount Moriah : they produce the finest cauliflowers
I ever saAv.
As there is little or no timber in this country, the houses
are all roofed with domes, which are built in the most
artless manner. A large cap or mould is formed on
a scaffolding under the proposed roof, and then covered
Avith rough stones and mortar, without any arrangement
or method : it is then alloAved to dry, Avhen the scaffolding
is removed, and the dome supports itself by its arched
form. The tomb of David, outside the south gate on part of
Mount Zion, is looked on Avith great reverence by the JeAvs,
and also by the Turks, who keep the key of it, and pretend
to allow no one to visit it There is also Avithin the toAvn
a part of an old Avail which the Jews imagine belonged
to the old city, and to Avhich they resort on Fridays to
sing psalms.
A man brought for sale some mosaic blocks,-which-had
formed part of a tesselated work. They Avere formed of
a cube of glass, the face of which is gilt, and a thinner
plate of glass fixed over it The two plates were so
firmly fitted and cemented together that the gold leaf
preserved its brightness unimpaired, although they Avere
supposed to have been lying underground for ages, but
it is impossible to fix the date of their manufacture.

2l8 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
There were not more than three or four English travel
lers in Jerusalem during our stay, the season being too
far advanced and unpropitious for fair-Aveather tourists.
The lately-published Turkish Hatti Sherrif has been pub
licly read in all the towns of Syria and Egypt At this
place Ibrahim Pacha had the consideration, I will not call
it precaution, to suppress it until after the collection of
his oppressive taxes. It is a curious anomaly that the
Egyptian Government should allow the publication in its
territories of the decrees of a poAver Avhose sovereignty it
does not acknowledge, and Avith Avhom it is at open war.
But it is the policy of Mohammed Ali to deceive the
public of Europe ; he will find, however, that, in case
of emergency, the illusions created by the French press
in favour of his civilization system, will stand him in
little stead before common sense and bayonets. By this
very act he has acknoAvledged himself in rebellion against
the Sultan. With respect to his subjects, it is a mere
form, or rather a mockery ; for the provisions of the
ordonnance, militating against his measures by regulating
taxation, limiting the conscription and guaranteeing indi
vidual security, will of course be disregarded.
During the whole of my stay at Jerusalem the rain
seldom intermitted, sometimes accompanied Avith snow,
and the cold was intense. A partial change having taken
place, I made arrangements for starting, in which I ex
perienced some difficulty. My felloAv-traveller had left
me for an excursion in the Hauran. The muleteers, each
OAvning a number of baggage cattle, prefer hiring them
all at once, and will not break their caravan for one
person : meeting, hoAvever, Avith a Frenchman in the same
predicament, Ave hired cattle jointly, and proposed starting
on the 27th: but Avhen the time came, our man having
repented of his bargain, did not appear, and, on our sending
to the muleteers' khan, Ave Avere informed that he had left
for Yaffa. Being all packed up and ready to proceed,
this intimation was rather vexatious ; but suspecting
that it was intended to throAv us off the scent, I told

"v - . PALESTINE. 219
my compagnon de voyage, Avho Avas blowing himself into
a white heat of rage, to come Avith me to the khan,
where, as I expected, Ave took the enemy by surprise. We
found a large party of muleteers sitting under the sunny
side of a wall, smoking and laughing, perhaps at our
expense. Our man, however, Avas not among them, and
on inquiring for him, they asserted he had left early in
the morning for Jaffa, and that we must wait for a party
that were going to Damascus in a feAv days. "Astoffer
ulla," quoth I, Avith other language not complimentary,
"Are ye not children of sin to tell me the man is
gone, when here are his horses and mules feeding before
your eyes ? " and turning, I pointed them out among
the others, for they had been brought to us for approval
when hired. Finding themselves detected, they tried to
brave it out ; but this would not do : and as they refused
to produce the man himself, we seized their Sheik, and
compelled him to go with us to the Governor. The little
Frenchman was half-mad when he found he had been so
taken in : he raved, and sAvore that nothing should content
him but giving the bastinado to the muleteer or the Sheik
or both. The Sheik, who is responsible for the class of
which he is the head, now began to be frightened, and
wished to come to terms : he offered to find us cattle,
and let us start Avhen we pleased ; but this the Frenchman
would not listen to, determined to have justice as he
called it. The rabble collected as we went through the
toAvn, but did not attempt a rescue, and picking up the
Consul's Tergmen on the road, we marched to the house
of the Mutsellim, the identical house said to have been
inhabited by Pontius Pilate. The Governor was-engaged
with a General of the Egyptian troops, Ismael Bey, who
had just arrived, and for whom, and his suite, fifty houses
had been forcibly taken possession of, and the inhabitants
expelled for their accommodation. On representing our
case, the refractory driver was handed over to the correc
tion of the Chaouash bashi ; but no sooner were his feet
tied up and the castigation about to commence, than the

220 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
Frenchman's heart failed him, and although he had been
so anxious for the punishment, he noAV declared he should
be taken ill if it Avere inflicted, and begged that the man
might be released, Avhich of course Avas complied with.
The lesson Avas, however, effectual ; for the cattle were
quickly forthcoming, and we Avere soon on the road, and
experienced no further difficulty all the Avay to Damascus.
The day Avas fine and Avarm, a most grateful relief from
the previous Aveather. Some miles from Jerusalem Ave met
a party of irregular cavalry coming from the opposite
direction. As they defiled from the valley of Ramlah,
their arms flashing in the sun, my imagination trans
formed them into a band of Red Cross Knights, Avith lance,
shield, and banner. They Avere about one hundred, in
every costume, from the Albanian to that of the old
Janissary : all armed Avith long guns, carbines, spears,
pistols, etc. Ibrahim Pacha receives his prisoners into
his OAvn service ; conciliating them by alloAving them to
retain their OAvn costume, and making them Bashi-bozeuk,
free rovers or irregulars : many are induced to desert
from the Turks for the same indulgence, as they detest
the European dress of the Turkish Nizam.
The large village of Ramlah, supposed to be Ramah,
croAvns a hill, and the surrounding country is a scene of
rocky desolation. Further on Ave passed Keona, between
which and Senea is a lovely valley, clothed Avith plant
ations of fig and fruit trees, another exception to the
general aspect of Palestine : the trees Avere noAV leafless,
with the exception of the olive ; but in summer this spot
must be beautiful. The usual rocky road brought us in
six hours to Selwud, a large village furnished with a pretty
good room for the accommodation of travellers and evening
loungers, Avhich public accommodation is rather uncommon
in Syria. In the evening a large party of the principal
villagers, with their Sheik, collected round our fire to give
and receive neAvs. In this country you have to Avitness
the whole tantalizing process of roasting, pounding, and
making coffee before you can hope to enjoy its refresh-

PALESTINE. 221
ment, but the natives seem to consider this as half the
pleasure. A handful of coffee is produced from the sash
of the host, in the corner of Avhich it has been tied up :
it is first burnt in an earthen pan, aftenvards pounded in
a large Avooden mortar, and then boiled and distributed.
This necessary preliminary being over, and every man
busily engaged imbibing smoke, I thought it a good
opportunity to test the feelings of the people. I told
them I Avas travelling with a firman of the Sultan of
Stamboul, which I produced. What proved to me
their unanimity, and that they had no fear of betrayal,
was their all rising simultaneously out of respect The
Sheik begged to be alloAved to see the document, and
immediately put the seal on his eyes and forehead, and
kissed it : no doubt much of this is OAving to their respect
for the Sultan as Al Mir el Momeneen, head of the Faith ;
but many did not hesitate to say that they wished for
a return to the rule of the Porte, and the overthroAV of
the Pacha's power. These sentiments were not without
danger to their propagators, for Ibrahim Pacha had a
number of people at Beyrout hanged for uttering opinions
against his Government.
The next morning Ave struck into our old track, passing
Singeeb, and, crossing a hilly ridge, descended into the
valley of Leban, Avhich terminates at Nabloos. At the
foot of the descent is a fine Avell of Avater, and the dry
bed of a stream Avinds through the valley. A party of
six armed horsemen joined us, AA'ho said they were going
to Damascus : but although we avoided their company,
as roadside acquaintances are not ahvays safe, we often
crossed each other on the road aftenvards. The raih re
commenced Avith great violence before we reached Nabloos.
I find that to-day we travelled seven hours : this would
make thirteen hours from Jerusalem, and does not agree
with my road down, Avhich made it seventeen hours. I
must, therefore, have gone by a much longer route, or it
may be accounted for by our having fresh and good
horses. We lodged Avith a Christian, Nikrile Jashan, to

222 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
whom I had been recommended by Mr. Nicolaison.
The interior of his house was gaudily painted with red
and green patterns. The females were slovenly, and the
house dirty : the whole town is very dirty, but allowance
must be made for the rainy Aveather, for the people seem
a very intelligent race. The accommodation Avas not
bad, and the host was obliging.
I marched with my French companion early on the
29th, passing through the olive woods of Dgeba, and by
the pool of Samaria, and Avound through the rocky hills
to Jenin. The ground in the fields and valleys Avas
covered with scarlet anemones, and numerous goats
broAvsed on the declivities ; these goats are remarkable
for the great length of their ears, which sweep the ground
as they feed.
As on the former occasion at this place, we found much
difficulty in procuring a lodging,' but eventually quartered
in the house of a fellah, where, occupying the same room
with his Avife and family, Ave had to endure the usual
concert of noises, squalling children (that discord so
musical to mothers' ears in all countries !), cackling of
fowls, the everlasting grinding of the hand-mill, and, not
least, the accompaniment of the shrill voice of our hostess.
My travelling companion was none of the most sociable,
for he would eat of nothing Avhich he did not cook himself,
which made me suppose that he was a French Jew, al
though he pleaded cleanliness for the procedure ; hoAvever,
as I always, where I could, made the natives officiate for
me, I had to eat my burgool pillau in solitary selfishness,
and Avas generally asleep before my friend had finished
his " petite cuisine."
Before Ave reached Jenin the rain had set in, and it
fell without intermission during the whole night, Avhen
the sky cleared and tempted us to proceed. The party
of horsemen Avho had arrived here with us would not
venture, and assured us that the plain to the north was
impassable: however, Ave Avere not so comfortable as to
induce us to remain where Ave were, and therefore resolved

PALESTINE.

223

to brave all obstacles. The Aveather Avas beautiful, and
reminded me of an English summer's day, the larks
springing from every dry spot, and filling the air with
melody, and even the frogs Avere croaking their delight
at a glimpse of sunshine. The mountains terminate here
abruptly, with a northern aspect, the long barren ridge
running eastvvard to the valley of the Jordan. The plain
which lay before us was a complete quagmire, and almost
deterred us from the attempt at passing it, before the
waters had subsided : the horse track was converted
into a muddy channel traversing the flooded soil, through
which Ave were obliged to plunge, mostly about knee-deep,
with an occasional variation up to the girths ; in some
places the ground on either side looked temptingly
dry, but any deviation from the subaquean path Avas
punished by our horses sinking and becoming fixed in
the treacherous swamp, from whence to extricate them
it was necessary to dismount, not Avithout damage to
person and property.
We passed the villages of Asura and Soura, where our
driver took a north-westerly course, wishing, as I after
wards found, to go by Nazareth, and make tAvo days to
Tiberias ; but as I carried a pocket compass, I made him
return to the right road, AA-hich skirted the east foot of
Mount Tabor. This abrupt conical hill is wooded with
thorny Nebek trees, which bear a small berry like a crab
apple, and on the top are some ruins, I believe of a
convent ; further on were two small ruined stone forts
or khans called Khan Tejor. The road then took a more
easterly direction across hilly slopes of firmer ground,
and we were thirteen hours reaching Tiberiasrwhere Ave
arrived after dark. We saAv a few gazelles on the road,
and I was rather surprised at meeting with a large flock
of the common rook. I had previously seen this bird on
Mount Lebanon, and I also noticed their appearance
near Eber, at the foot of the Sultan Dagh in Asia Minor.
I do not think that it is an inhabitant of Avarm climates,
and yet I Avas not aAvare that it Avas a migratory bird.

224 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
The Mutsellim Avas not to be found at this late hour,
but the people Avere very hospitable, Avhich I had not
expected after the difficulty Ave experienced at Jenin.
Some of the native Christians first conducted us to their
church, Avhich offered but cold and comfortless accommo
dation for the night, and as Ave intimated that we should
prefer a lodging on a smaller scale, we were taken to a
very good house, constructed of boards, on a raised plat
form. This had been built for the Egyptian General,
Ismael Bey, whom Ave left at Jerusalem ; although he had
quitted it, the fleas had not, as we soon found to our
cost. I ahvays slung my hammock on my arrival, and lay
in it and my ' Fellowes' ' sheets, so that I escaped any great
inconvenience ; but the poor Frenchman, who was lying
(for he did not sleep) on the ground without any protec
tion, was literally tortured, his groans at night were quite
painful, and I do not think he slept for an hour for
six out of the seven days that Ave employed going to
Damascus, where he was seriously unwell in consequence.
The natives say the King of the Fleas lives at Tiberias.
Tabaria is a large toAvn on the south-Avestern shore of
the lake : it Avas surrounded by strong stone Avails ; these,
as Avell as the town, are noAV half in ruins, from the earth
quake Avhich happened three years back. The town of
Saffad, on the hills to the north-west of the lake, was
nearly destroyed at the same time. I Avas very much
pleased Avith the people of Tiberias : they seemed very
intelligent and extremely obliging, bringing us everything
that we asked for without hesitation or, as in the other
parts of Syria, demanding payment in advance : in fact,
they gratuitously offered many things Ave did not ask for,
such as bedding, wine, etc.
On this journey neither my French companion nor
the muleteer, Avho Avas a Turk, could speak a word of the
language ; but as I had by this time brought my Barbary
Arabic into some sort of affinity with the dialects of the
country, I stood interpreter to the party.
The lake of Tiberias is strikingly beautiful : the broad

X
g ¦4aP Z
"4

PALESTINE. 225
expanse of Avater is bordered by mountains which rise
on the Avest shore in bold picturesque cliffs, partly Avooded,
the other shores being bounded by high flat ridges,
deeply indented Avith valleys and ravines. A heavy fog
in the morning had smoothed the surface of the lake,
and now climbed the opposite hills in ragged masses,
or poised its fleecy clouds superincumbent on the craggy
peaks. The path along the shore Avas carpeted with
wild flowers, and flocks of ducks reposed on the water;
although no vessels noAV SAveep over its ripples, the fish do
not want for enemies : groups of large black cormorants
sat on the isolated rocks, reflecting their gaunt forms in
the glassy mirror ; a smaller sort, Avith grey back, perched
on the boughs overhanging the Avater ; while ever and
anon the kingfisher dashed headlong on his glancing prey,
splashing up the water in a sparkling shoAver, and looking
in the sunshine like a blue sapphire set in diamonds.
There are three sorts of the Halcyonidae on this lake,
the common small one ; the large blue kingfisher with
white breast and scarlet bill, and the black and white;
the latter hovers in the air over the open water, from
whence it darts on its prey. The numerous villages that
formerly lined these shores have disappeared ; there are
a feAV hovels at the north-Avest end, near about the site
of Capernaum ; no natural causes exist for the decline
of this once populous region, and the destruction of all
its towns : the country has every advantage of fertility
and beauty, but the irrevocable judgment was denounced
against them ; they are cast doAvn from their height of
pride, and now the timid francolin nestles in the vegeta
tion that covers their graves. After winding along the.
coast of the lake and enjoying its scenery, we ascended
a steep mountain road to some wells near the ruins of a
small building called Dgib Yusuf, from Avhence we took
a last vieAv of its romantic shores, and after some rough
scrambling among the rocky hills, descended across gently
sloping plains to the valley of the Jordan. These fine
plains are covered Avith innumerable herds of cattle;
™ . 15

226 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
these descendants of the bulls of Bashan are peculiarly
marked, being all black Avith the exception of a white face.
February i. — In eight hours we reached Djesr Yacob,
Jacob's bridge over the Jordan, where the only lodging
procurable Avas a little hovel about ten feet square, without
a door, and built of rough stones, loosely piled up Avithout
cement, and admitting the cold wind like a sieve : there
being no shelter for eight hours further, we were fain to
be contented, if not comfortable. There was another hut
crammed full of horses and surogees, this being a post
station ; some peasants lived in tAvo or three hovels made
of rushes, on the banks of the stream ; but no provisions
could be obtained, except black tiles of bread, dried figs,
and eggs. I should have made a subject for the pencil
of Murillo as I sat on the side of my hammock, peeling
my hard eggs, and enjoying my hard fare, by the light
of an end of candle stuck in the barrel of my gun ; and
this is the spot Avhere Jacob crossed the Jordan into
Canaan. Although the night Avas frosty, there is little
fear of colds or fevers while one is compelled to such tem
perate living. Going out to make a sketch of the place,
I saw a mungoose creeping aAvay through some ruins.
The river Jordan, which Ave crossed in the early morn
ing, is a clear rapid stream, of little breadth, flowing
between gently sloping banks, bare of wood ; it makes
its way through an opening in the mountains into the
lake of Tiberias. From the ascent of the hills on the
other side, a smaller lake (the waters of Merom) can
be seen tOAvards the north. After reaching the table
lands of Bashan, on the summit of the mountains, Ave
crossed a rather fertile country, Avith a large proportion
of rocky ground : extensive tracts are scattered over Avith
stunted evergreen oak trees, many of them Avithered and
dead, and feAV even of a moderate size : these are the
remains of the oak forests of Bashan. On the risrht.
four miles from Kanneytra, which Ave reached in eight
hours, is a remarkable conical hill.
Kanneytra (Canetha), a large village built of black stone,

PALESTINE.

227

lies in the open plain, but near the foot of the Antilebanon
which is a sheet of snoAV from its summit to its base.
The village contains about 100 cabins, and the people, who
are Arabs, Avere remarkably civil and obliging. In one of
these cabins Ave Avere accommodated in the place of honour,
a raised platform on one side, three feet high, which gave
us the benefit of a denser smoke from the fire on the floor ;
the other end of the room, divided off by a low wall, Avas
occupied by sundry horses and mules. Our hostess Avas
tall and black-eyed, the beau-ideal of a gipsy queen.
As the Aveather was fine, I sat outside the door, to avoid the
smoke ; the children croAvded round, to see me write, but
they Avere very respectful and unobtrusive.
The sky Avas cloudless, but the air which SAvept over the
open plains Avas piercing cold ; we passed several brooks
frozen over, but the marshes and pools were full of wild
ducks and geese ; crossed a small tract of oaks and the re
mains of ancient roads. Before reaching Sassa, we traversed
an extraordinary rocky district of great extent, broken
into holes filled Avith rain-Avater. This desolate region had
the appearance of having been turned upside down by an
earthquake, and that this is more than mere conjecture
would appear from the present condition of an ancient
Roman road, formed of broad slabs, apparently folloAving
our present track toAvards Damascus, and over Avhich
Ave sometimes travelled. In some places, large portions
of this road With the rock on Avhich it was laid Avere forced
out of their positions at an angle to their original direction ;
some parts having been raised or depressed vertically,
and others horizontally, Avhile large masses were throAvn
up the adjacent declivities; deep rents in many places
had split the solid stone, and the whole tract appeared
to have undergone a most violent convulsion.
At Sassa, where I arrived in eight hours, this stony Avaste
terminates abruptly, and a fine fertile soil as suddenly
commences and extends to Damascus. Sassa is a small
square fort, with octangular bastions at the corners ; the
walls are built of black stone, to the height of three or four

228 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
feet, and then continued Avith Avhite stone ; it possesses
a small tottering mosque, and is othenvise much dilapi
dated : a braAvling brook Aoavs in front of the gateAvay,
and at the back of the village is a stiff grove of alders,
but the splendid appearance of the spotless mountains
diverts attention from the defects of the nearer vieAv.
February j. — It Avere impossible to imagine anything
more lovely than the appearance of the sky and mountains
at sunrise this morning : the mountains, which rose high
on the left in one unbroken undulating sheet of snow,
were dyed a pale rose-colour, and crowned with a mottled
canopy of crimson and purple clouds, deepening to jetty-
black : the Eastern horizon, on which loomed several isolated
mountain peaks, was overspread with vivid bars of orange
and gold, Avhich changed, as the sun ascended, to brilliant
silver; the ground of the sky to some height above the
horizon Avas a pale French-green, melting imperceptibly
into pellucid azure : I Avatched the fleeting beauties of this
glorious scene till the sun burst in brightness on the Avhite
curtained peaks and dissipated the gorgeous pageant.
Our road to Damascus Avas across fertile and Avell-
cultivated plains, soAvn Avith Avheat and barley; as Ave
neared the toAvn, Ave folloAved the course of the Barrada,
but the plain is so flat it is impossible from this approach
to obtain a view of Damascus : nothing was visible but
a long line of trees, above which rose a feAv distant
minarets : at the foot of the Antilebanon there is an
extensive village, and far off to the eastAvard rises a
panorama of isolated peaks and ridges.
Four miles from the toAvn Ave entered the wide tract
of orchard Avhich encircles it. The trees at this season
were all denuded of verdure, with the exception of the
pale foliage of the olive ; these gardens are chiefly planted
with apricot trees, the fruit of which is dried, and becomes
an article of trade throughout the Levant ; it is formed
into a paste, and then rolled into large, sheets, which look
like leather. We reached the toAvn in seven hours, and
lodged in a large dirty Latin convent.

PALESTINE.

229

Damascus seems to have entirely revived from its last
destruction by Tamerlane, in 1400. It is now a large
city, Avith good streets and bazaars ; one of the latter is
a very fine Avork, of great width, covered in by an arch of
an immense span. In this bazaar fruit shops were arranged
with as much taste as in a London market. A stranger is
surprised at the number of gates, most of the streets being
furnished with gates at both ends : these are all closed at
night, and have guards or Avatchmen, which contributes
much to the peace of the city, and prevents disturbances.
The houses, built of clay with flat roofs projecting
tAvo feet over the Avails, have a mean appearance; this
outAvard meanness is atoned for by the beauty and rich
ness of their interior. The Avails and ceilings are painted
and gilded with arabesque patterns in stucco. The court
yards are furnished Avith fountains and marble pavements
and planted Avith orange, lemon, and citron trees, which
groAv to a large size.

Damascus.

From the top of the Franciscan Convent in which I
lodged, I Avas struck Avith the extraordinary variety in

230 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
the numerous minarets of the mosques, no two being
built after the same pattern or style ; in the accompanying
sketch, taken from the top of the convent, there are nine
different forms. The principal mosque, formerly a Christian
church, is a mixture of Moorish and Byzantine. The present
population of Damascus amounts to 80,000. An English
man experiences no inconvenience in Avandering about the
streets and bazaars, the people being quiet and civil ;
and Avith respect to the women, they seem less secluded
than in other towns, for I saw ladies shopping in the
bazaars with their faces uncovered : they have the re
putation of being the handsomest women in the Levant,
and they certainly justify their fame ; their faces are
scarcely oval enough to be perfect ; they are fair, with
black eyes and hair, and have not that sallow pallor
Avhich is peculiar to the Eastern Avomen ; this may be
the effect of their less rigid seclusion.
Intelligence had been received of the plague having
broken out in the Hauran to the south, and as it Avas
still winter, it was expected it would reach Damascus.
An order arrived from the Pacha to cleanse the town,
and a military cordon Avas draAvn across the country
betAveen it and the infected district ; but independent of
the predestinarian apathy of the Turks, whom a bribe
would induce to alloAV any one to pass, it is impossible
to prevent communication in a wild country like this,
Avithout any natural frontier. My stay at Damascus Avas
necessarily rendered very short, by the dread of the arrival
of this scourge ; in the event of Avhich the gates Avould
have been closed, and I should have had the unpleasant
prospect of remaining imprisoned for an indefinite time
Avith the pest, with the possibility of taking the infection.
I had intended crossing the desert to Bagdad by
Palmyra; but calling on the English Consul, I found at
his house two French gentlemen, M. de Sivrac and M.
de Beaufort, who had just returned from an unsuccessful
attempt to visit that place, having been stripped of every
thing, one of them being severely wounded. It appears

PALESTINE. 231
that these gentlemen took an escort from the Governor
of Horns, consisting of a party of Arabs, Avho, it was sup
posed, Avere in league Avith the tribes into whose hands
they betrayed the travellers : their own party, hoAvever
was quite capable of making a defence, and might, if they
had pursued a different plan, have reached their destina
tion safely. It appears that on arriving within a march
of Palmyra, they were opposed by a tribe of Arabs;
and under pretence of a parley Avith the Sheik, they
alloAved themselves to be surrounded, and were over
powered by numbers: they had offered any sum the
Sheik chose to demand, for permission to pass on ; but
he, seeing they Avere entirely in his poAver and unresisting,
of course could not resist the temptation, and plundered
them of everything ; one of them in the confusion being
wounded on the head by a club loaded Avith iron.
A party of six or eight armed Englishmen may always
go to Palmyra, with a high hand : and with good manage
ment I am convinced this French party would have suc
ceeded, for it consisted of four besides servants. The
Arabs seldom come to blows, when they find they have
a determined enemy to deal Avith : they are not a blood
thirsty race ; the principal cause of their self-control is
the existence of the blood feud ; for they are extremely
careful of taking life, Avhen it will entail mutual assassina
tion as an heir-loom on their children and relations for
ages ; and this has a national influence Avhich is evident
even in their intercourse with strangers.
The caravan for Bagdad had left a month earlier ; and
as this is not the season that travellers visit Syria, I
could not form a strong party, and thought it-better to
submit to the disappointment of not seeing Palmyra, and
go back to Aleppo, from Avhence we could prosecute our
journey by a more circuitous, but probably a more interest
ing route through Mesopotamia.
I have nothing new to tell of Damascus. Its mosques,
its bazaars and caravanserais, its baths, and all belonging
to it have been so often described and illustrated, that

232 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
any further addition would be irrelevant. The convent
in Avhich I lodged contained four Franciscan friars : there
was another convent in Avhich one Capuchin friar and
a servant had resided : this was the man on Avhose
account the persecution Avas raised against the JeAvs,
and which made so much stir. Two days before I
quitted Damascus, Padr£ Thoma , and his servant both
disappeared ; he was in the habit of visiting the native
Jews and others as a doctor, and was supposed to have
amassed a large sum of money ; and the most natural
supposition would be that the servant had made away
with him and his money, and absconded ; however, the
native Christian body, seizing the opportunity of gratify
ing their hatred of the race, immediately accused the Jews
of having killed them for the purpose of using their blood
in their ceremonies. A thousand stories were invented to
increase the popular clamour, cases of children disappear
ing yearly were now discovered that had never been heard
of before, and a man was actually named who had escaped
from their hands after being kidnapped, and Avho had been
bribed by a large sum and bound by an oath of secrecy.
In short, it was a counterpart of what used to take place
in Europe in the dark ages, whenever a pretext Avas
wanted for plundering the Jews. The Christians, with
the Monks and the French Consul at their head, assailed
the Governor Sheriff Pacha Avith clamours for justice,
without the shadow of evidence against any one, except
whispers and reports exaggerated and believed. A number
of Jews were seized and bastinadoed ; and at length a
barber, under the torment, Avas induced to confess that
he had been sent for by the principal Jews to despatch
Father Thoma; on going to the place this man pointed
out, they pretended to find some bits of bone, one of
which Avas part of a scull ; here was proof to people
already convinced by prejudice. Finding that all the
punishments produced no real evidence, although it was
said that the Chief Rabbi had turned Moslem from fear,
the Pacha, by the advice of an European, resorted to

PALESTINE. 233
the insidious plan of seizing and imprisoning all the
JeAvish children, to extort evidence from the fears of
their mothers ; but the fortitude of the Jewish mother
was proof even against this act of cruelty, and their
enemies Avere baffled. Another Eastern method was put
in practice ; that of employing conjurers to make dis
coveries by their charms, etc., and no doubt had this
happened half a century ago, the popular excitement
would not have been allayed but by copious blood-letting
or massacre. After I reached Aleppo, I found that the
daily exaggerated accounts from Damascus Avere greedily
believed by all parties, Avho never dreamt of examining
the sources of the evidence against the JeAvs, but only
sought a justification of their hatred of the race; and
although there were some intelligent and educated
Levantines of English blood living here, I could not
find one to join me in pleading their innocence of the
charge; but, on the contrary, all opposed and ridiculed
me with bitterness, insisting blindly on their criminality
as not to be questioned.
The following remarks from Percy's "Reliques," on
similar accusations against the JeAvs, are very apposite:
— " It probably never happened in a single instance," says
he ; " for, if we consider on the one hand the ignorance
and superstition of the times Avhen such stories took their
rise ; the virulent prejudices of the Monks Avho record
them ; and the eagerness Avith Avhich they would be caught
up by the barbarous populace as a pretence for plunder;
on the other hand, the great danger incurred by the
perpetrators, and the inadequate motives they could
have to excite them to a crime of such ""horror, Ave
may easily conclude the whole charge to be groundless
and malicious."
. The manufacture of Damascus blades no longer exists,
although some old ones may possibly be found ; those noAV
worn by the Egyptian officers are made in Egypt; they
are much valued, but so highly tempered that they are
brittle and apt to break from Avant of elasticity.

234 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
February 8. — My French companion remained at Damas
cus, and I Avas now entirely alone. I thought it most
advisable to accompany a caravan across the open country
betAveen this and Aleppo, which is said to be unsafe on
account of marauding Arabs. There being a regular
monthly mail by dromedaries from here to Bagdad, and
not knoAving what treatment aAvaited us in Mesopotamia
and Koordistan, I took the precaution of forwarding by it
my notes and papers to Bagdad for safety. The party
I had joined consisted of about thirty camels belonging
to a trader, who was carrying a parcel of Dibs to Aleppo
on speculation ; this " Dibs " is a thick syrup made of the
juice of grapes, by boiling, and is packed in large goat
or calf skins ; the chief owner of the caravan was an
Aleppine named Hadj Ali, a rough good-natured felloAv,
who wets of great assistance to me and shoAved me much
kindness on the road ; he wore ai large turban, a cloak
lined with lambskin, and long boots, and Avas mounted
on a sorry horse, the only horse in the party besides
my own. The camel-drivers had none of the Ioav feelings
and brutality to be expected from people in their position,
but under their rough exterior concealed a great deal of
natural courtesy as well as Intelligence; and from this
I augured to myself less inconvenience than this dreary
journey of fourteen days otherwise promised. The moving
of a caravan, however small, is a Avork of some difficulty,
and after delaying till mid-day, we were again detained
at a small town near Damascus, called Duma, for the
purpose of completing the lading of the camels. I Avalked
through the bazaar to purchase some bread and dried fruits
for the road, a small crowd collecting and folloAving me
from curiosity, who behaved well. I met a number of
Egyptian Nizam, horse and foot, Avho were marching south,
and who all begged me to give them change for sequins :
they had been paid in gold, Avhich decreases in value
about five per cent as you proceed south : I accommodated
as many as I could, and then marched with the camels ;
we only however made seven miles from Damascus, and

PALESTINE.

235

halted at a khan near the large village of Rehan. A mare
belonging to one of the soldiers foaled the next night, and
was on the march again after a day's rest I lay at night
in the open air, but scarcely closed my eyes, being kept
awake by the roaring of the camels and jingling of their
bells. The ascent of the hills gives a splendid view of
Damascus, surrounded by plantations and cultivation, and
in summer, Avhen the trees are in leaf, would justify the
Eastern enthusiasm AA-hich it excites. The plain around
Damascus is full of large villages: the next day we
marched six hours; leaving a high conical mountain on
the right, and passing over a small chain, we descended
to the village of Kitifee, in a bitter drifting north-east
wind : nothing of consequence happened, but the falling
of tAvo camels, which caused us some detention, as their
loads burst, and Avasted much of their sweetness on the
desert earth ; spare skins are ahvays carried for these
emergencies, and the damage was quickly repaired.
February 10. — We marched two hours before daylight,
as the party were fearful of being attacked by Arabs.
The cold Avas most intense, but the sky clear ; we crossed
more mountains, where the snow was lying in the ravines
and on the north slopes, and traversed a high desert plain
to Nebek, a small toAvn on a hill, surrounded by a feAv
fruit trees with springs of excellent Avater. There is here
one of the finest khans or caravanserais I have yet seen ;
it is massively built of heAvn stone, and coA-ers an immense
extent ; the vaulted roof is supported by toavs of enormous
square pillars, and the interior would shelter several
hundred camels and men ; the villagers sat at the gate
way, selling eggs, bread, sour milk, tobacco, grain,- etcrr
a large ruinous mosque is attached to this building; the
cement between the stones is so firm, and the stones so
closely fitted, that I found much difficulty in suspending
my hammock for the night
The next day Ave could only march three hours, to
the village of Kara, beyond that the nearest place is
Hasseya, which is nine hours. The road passed by Deratie,

236 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
a village on our right, betAveen a low ridge of mountains
and the Lebanon, Avhich rose in the Avest, in wedge-
shaped and pyramidal peaks. The people of Kara Avere
outside the village, bargaining for cattle with a travelling
drover; the Sheik, a fine-looking Arab, in a flaming
scarlet furred cloak, asked me to his house ; he Avas much
amused Avith my pocket pistols, Avhich I allowed him to
fire, and his astonishment was extreme at seeing the
damage of Avhich they Avere capable; for they usually
judge of firearms by their size. The Sheik's wife, who Avas
remarkably handsome, served us with coffee, several of
the principal villagers being of the party, among Avhom
was her father. The Sheik asked hoAV we arranged money
matters at marriages in England, and being told that the
wife was generally expected to bring a dowry to her
husband, he said it Avas a most excellent arrangement :
and, turning to his father-in-law, told him jokingly that
he must refund all the money he had paid for his daughter,
as he Avould be an Englishman. My merry host then
wished me to point out which were Christians and Avhich
Moslem of the circle round the room ; this was not easy
to distinguish, as they Avere here dressed alike, and it
Avas, besides, an invidious task ; for the Arabs would have
been offended at being taken for Kafirs, and the Christians
would think it no compliment being taken for themselves ;
I therefore evaded it. He told me there Avere thirty
families of Romish Christians and fifty of Arabs in his
village, and that they paid 15,000 piastres per annum to
the Government, which, Avith the maintenance of troops,
Avhich are continually quartered on the village, amounted
to 25,000. One hour and a half S.W. of this is a village
called Tabrod. We left at sunrise, across desert slopes,
covered Avith black gravel : the road in other parts being
muddy, which renders the travelling most difficult for
camels, their large flat feet slipping about, and sometimes
causing serious accidents, one of which I witnessed to-day.
We reached Hasseya in nine hours, and the caravan Avas
just entering the ruined khan, Avhen one of the camels

PALESTINE.

237

slipped in the mud, and in falling, broke its fore-leg above
the knee ; I endeavoured to induce them to kill it immedi
ately, but the poor man Avho owned it, naturally wishing
to lose as little as possible, kept it alive until he could
dispose of it to the villagers, Avho soon assembled, promis
ing themselves a season of feasting from its flesh. They
examined if the poor beast Avas fat, valued its skin,
calculated what he Avould bring when sold by the ocha,
and stood chaffering and quarrelling for upAvards of an
hour, before a bargain Avas settled for 100 piastres. All
this time the Avretched animal sent forth such groans
as nearly droAvned the voices of the crowd, and con
tinually struggling to rise, splintered more and more the
crashing bone on Avhich he attempted to lean, which
must have put him to Indescribable torture, and made
me shudder to witness, and it Avas a great relief when the
poor beast was killed. He was skinned with great ex
pedition, the flesh cut off and carried to the village, and
I soon heard the dull crunching sounds of the haggard
dogs at work on the carcase, Avhich had been left in one
of the compartments of the caravanserai in which Ave
slept. Half-way between Kara and Hasseya, Ave passed a
large village called Elburge, Avhere the Avomen came out
to meet us with boAvls of milk-curds and bread for sale,
on which Ave breakfasted; it Avould puzzle a stranger
to eat flat cakes and milk Avith his fingers; it is accom
plished by tAvisting the pieces of flat bread into the shape
of a cocked hat, by Avhich means you are enabled to
diminish your dish very rapidly. As Hadj Ali could
not manage to pronounce my Saxon name, I went among
them by the Arab name of Mourad, as the nearest .ap
proximation. Most of the inhabitants of Hasseya are Christians.
While I Avas sitting in a solitary den in the ruins of the
khan, the Cassis or priest came and asked me to go
to his house, Avhich I did. His dwelling Avas miserable
and dirty enough, but at least Avarm.
In the evening the Mutsellim sent for me to his quarters.

238 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
I had seen him on my arrival, returning from hunting,
on a handsome black Arab. I found him an intelligent
young man, and Avell-informed for a Turk, Avhich he was,
although wearing the Egyptian uniform ; his room was
furnished Avith a chimney, and an enormous fire Avas kept
burning ; after passing a pleasant evening, I returned to
the priest's house.
February rj. — I Avas awoke before sunrise, by a Greek
travelling priest, Avho slept in the room Avith me, and
who began at this early hour to gabble his prayers at
a most unintelligible rate for nearly an hour, perhaps
to give me an idea of his sanctity ; the principal part of
the performance was a continual repetition of Kyrie
Eleison. I was much amused by the priest's wife, who
was in a state of great alarm lest I should go away without
paying for my entertainment; she Avhispered her husband
and hovered about like a bailiff Avatching a debtor's door,
and when at last she fingered the cash, the clearing up of
her anxious features was a sight for a physiognomist.
The load of the dead camel being distributed among the
others, we resumed our march, but before starting Ave
heard the guns firing at Homs for the feast of the Kourban
Bairam, a distance of eight hours, not less than twenty-
eight miles. At Shemsyn, three hours from here, the
rocks and soil change to fine arable land. There is a
fine vieAv up the ' valley of the Lebanon, Avhich begins to
open to the S.W. The mountains are now nearly covered
with snoAV.
The caravan passed through Homs and stopped out
side at the village of Sidi Khaleed. I Avent in to visit
the jeAvellers' bazaar : some of them had some good coins,
but seemed to have found out that they were extremely
valuable, and consequently asked most exorbitant prices,
so I let them keep them for their next visitors.
We noAV struck into my old road from Aleppo, the
caravan marching the next day in six hours to Rostan,
where we arrived just as the rain began, and took shelter
in the khan on the banks of the Orontes. Hadj Ali rode

PALESTINE. 239
on in advance to Hamah, and I remained till the following
morning. I slung my hammock in a corner of the khan,
Avhich the great number of camels kept pretty Avarm.
The khan at Nebek is entirely covered over, but this one
is built on arches surrounding a square courtyard, Avhich
at present is a foot deep in black mud : under the vault
there is a much greater accumulation of dry dust and
straw ; but little provision is to be obtained in the village.
February 1$. — The river, swollen by the rains, had left
so much mud on the road along its margin, that although
there was a bridge, the men did not think it safe to risk
their camels ; and the Aveather being clear, I set off for
Hamah alone. As I traversed these bare plains, I and my
horse were the only living objects visible as far as the eye
could reach; not a passenger or a distant shepherd to break
the impressive grandeur of the solitude. Arriving near
Hamah, I found a number of Turkish horsemen playing
at the Jereed ; they were chasing each other at speed in
various directions, the pursuer discharging a short stick
about four feet in length at his adversary, and then
wheeling to avoid retaliation. After Avaiting for an hour
in a public khan, I was not sorry to see the good-
humoured face of Hadj Ali, Avho came and conducted
me to the house of a relation of his, Avhere Ave sat in
the same room Avith the ladies of the family ; one of these
was a handsome young Avoman, who Avas nursing her
child ; they had no scruples or false modesty about
being seen, and Avere all very obliging to their guests ;
they were people of the middling class, but in good cir
cumstances ; our bedding, at night, was made of quilted
silk and cotton mattresses. I was obliged to-stay-with
them another day, to aAvait the arrival of the camels, and
I could not have been in better quarters, the weather
being cold and rainy. I was much pleased with the
kindness I experienced from the people in this country,
and considering the way in which I Avas travelling, Avith
every appearance of poverty, it says a great deal for the
goodness of their character. Hadj Ali took me to sup Avith

24O FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
him at the house of a friend called Hadj Hassan, Avho
Avas very curious to knoAV Avhat object I could have in
wandering about their country. Hadj Ali, who had been
joking with me before, frightened them by saying that
the Franks went about to Avrite them and their country
in a book. '¦ Oh," said Hadj Hassan, " Mourad will not
write anything against me, for Ave have broken bread to
gether." He gave us a supper of cuscasoo ; a dish Avhich
I had not seen since I left Morocco, Avhere it is a substi
tute for rice, but it is far superior and forms the principal
food of the Moors ; it is made of granulated wheat flour
and looks like coarse sago, and is cooked by steam.
The 1 8th there was a hard frost, and the camels having
come up, I took leave of my hospitable entertainers ; Ave
marched before sunrise, and did not reach khan Shokune
under nine hours, on account of delays and bad roads.
These plains abound in bustards : this bird is much taller
than the turkey, and goes in flocks of fifteen or twenty ;
the males spread their feathers and strut like the turkey-
cock, shoAving the inner down and under parts of their
plumage, when they appear entirely white, and are seen at
a great distance. Gazelles are also numerous ; there are
two varieties, the common brown gazelle, and another
nearly white ; the latter only is considered good eating.
There was nothing in the shape of provisions to be
obtained at this place. I had put myself to much in
convenience by not carrying provisions with me ; but I
preferred the sacrifice to the inconvenience of being
encumbered Avith stores, and Avent on the principle that
where one man could live another could ; and wherever
I found men, there of course I found food, though often,
as in this case, of the Avorst description. In the present
instance it gave me occasion to record the following trait
of character, greatly to their credit, on the part of the
camel-drivers. I .was complaining of my bad fare, when
one of them asked me if I Avould partake of their dinner
of burgool. "Yes," said I, "if you will buy it and cook
it, I will join in your meal," and for this purpose I offered

PALESTINE.

241

him the money to purchase it "Oh no," said he, "we
have it Avith us." I told him to keep It to purchase butter
or Avhatever else Avas necessary ; and with great reluctance
he retained the money. In the evening Ave had an
excellent pillaf, Avith the addition of apricot syrup. This
is made from the paste manufactured from the Damascus
apricot, a bale of this article, rolled into flat sheets, forming
part of their lading for Aleppo ; as soon as I had finished
supper, my friend put the money I had given him into my
hand, begging that I Avould not be offended at having it
returned, as he said it Avould be a disgrace to them to take
money from me for eating Avith them, and a stain on their
hospitality. I Avas a little vexed at finding myself so
completely overreached ; but I could not help admiring
the delicacy of the proceeding in these poor people, for
had they first returned the money, they thought that I
should have refused to join them.
This khan, like the others, was a foot deep in black
mud ; the camels are lodged dry and Avell-fed ; they are
furnished with abundance of chopped straAV, and once a day
are fed with a mixture of barley-meal and pulse or split
peas; this is made into a paste Avith Avater, and divided
into large balls of about three pounds each, of Avhich
five are given to each camel. Here and at Rostan there
are a great many young horses grazing, belonging to the
Government. The caravan halted here the next day and
on the 20th I pushed on Avith Hadj Ali across the plains,
leaving the camels to follow. We went into Marra, a
gloomy dirty place, famous for its sweetmeats, and arrived
in eleven hours at the village of Serukee. The ruins of
the khan were croAvded with travellers and baggage cattle,
and Ave Avere obliged ' to go and procure billets in the
village. I was separated from my companion, but found
good quarters Avith a fine old felloAV Avith a Avhite beard ;
he was quite a sportsman, and complained very much of
being deprived of his arms by the Government, Avhich pre
vented his antelope shooting ; however, he had substituted
some fine hounds, and with them still carried on his sport.
VOL. 1. 16

242 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
February 21. — In the morning I searched the village
for Hadj Ali, but Avithout success, and set off by myself for
Aleppo; this country being better cultivated, the roads Avere
consequently worse ; in many places they Avere ploughed
over, and the march Avas very tedious. On one occasion, I
foolishly diverged, for Avhat appeared to be a drier path,
when I all at once found myself swamped in a slough ; I
dismounted, but found my horse inextricably fixed ; and
there I stood, up to my knees in mud, contemplating
my disconsolate situation, no one near to afford me
assistance. In this helpless condition I should have
afforded an easy prey to any wandering Arabs Avho might
have taken a fancy to my baggage : and the reputation
these plains enjoyed as the resort of plunderers did not
add to the comfort of my position ; at length a party
with donkeys, Avhom I had passed on the road, came up
and helped me to extricate my horse. I had paid these
people for their assistance, but as I Avent on Avith them,
I heard them remarking that they might have made a
better bargain if they had left me in the mud till I had
agreed on a ransom ; it was very true, and what might
have been expected from some of our peasantry nearer
home. It took me twelve hours to reach Aleppo, Avhich
I came in sight of, just as it was lighted up by a lurid
sunset ; the town, with its graceful minarets and tall
citadel, has a commanding appearance from the south.
The plains on this frontier, from three hours south of
Aleppo, to Sasa, south of Damascus, are, Avith some ex
ceptions, fertile ; the same fine soil extends to the vicinity
of Palmyra. This rich tract is capable of high cultivation,
for which the population at present is not adequate,
but there can be no doubt that formerly it was thickly
peopled ; Avhen the land is cultivated, it produces abundant
crops of grain ; and when left to itself, the thistles flourish
in gigantic luxuriance ; but such is the poverty of the
people, caused by the oppression of the Egyptian Govern
ment, that it is only in large towns like Aleppo, Hamah,
and Homs, that the common necessaries of life can be

PALESTINE.

243

obtained. I believe I mentioned that in Rostan, a town
of 400 or 500 houses, I could obtain nothing but dry
and bad bread. I suppose the human' frame becomes
more enduring under hardships ; this is the only way in

Aleppo.

Avhich I can account for my health not breaking down
on these long Aveary marches. The expense of horse
hire from Jerusalem to Aleppo Avas about £3 ; the expense
of living about ten shillings. I learnt on these travels
hoAV little a man requires to sustain life ; in some places
I could purchase dry fish-roes ; these, and the carob bean,
I carried in my Avallet, Avith the flat cakes, which do duty
for bread, dried to the consistence of flint : on one occasion
I lived for four or five days on the small dry figs, which
are strung like necklaces, and sold in the native bazaars,
and yet my health did not suffer ; there is no doubt that
in our ordinary life, at home most people eat "too much:
hence the multiplicity of diseases, and our consequent
slavery to doctors. As my experience, when last here,
taught me not to expect much hospitality from our
Consul, I lodged for the night in a khan, and the next
day, through the kind assistance of my friend, Mr. C.
Barker, procured a very good lodging in the house
of a Greek. Here I Avas very comfortable, and was

244 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
besides under the protection of a variety of saints and
martyrs, Avith Avhich the Avails of my room Avere hung ;
some of these are Avorth recording, to shoAv the delusions
by which these poor people are kept in bondage by their
spiritual false guides. One of these pictures represented
the raising a dead man to life, by a priest named Phillipi
Neri, Avho of course Avas canonized, as certified by an
extract from a Pope's bull Avhich is attached to it. Another
is a picture of St. Eurosia, daughter of a King of Bohemia,
who suffered martyrdom at the hands of the Moors. The
legend continues, " At the same time this holy martyr of
Christ obtained the favour of the Most High to be pro
tectress against rain and all sorts of tempests." I will make
no comment.

245

CHAPTER IX.
Assyria.
For a month Ave Avere weather-bound at Aleppo: and
from all the information to be obtained, the route through
Mesopotamia, Avhich lay along the base of the mountains,
would be a quagmire, after these heavy rains; but my
fellow-traveller having rejoined me here, after an inter
esting excursion in the Hauran, we made preparations
for our omvard march, hoping that the Aveather would
improve as Ave went on. We purchased a couple of
horses, and getting rid of all our extra baggage, we
reduced our wardrobe to a change of clothes, and about
four blue shirts each : these, with maps, sketch-books and
a feAV necessaries, Aveighing altogether about 1 5 lbs., were
packed in saddle-bags, made to fit over the cantle of our
saddles ; looking forward, as a general rule, to having to
sleep in our clothes, all our bedding consisted of a coverlet
or quilt, Avhich was doubled and strapped with a surcingle
over the saddle, making a comfortable seat, and a cloak
fastened on behind ; we each slung a double-barrelled
gun, and pair of pistols, Avith necessary ammunition ; and
thus equipped we set off to traverse some of the most
unfrequented roads of Turkish Arabia. With the exception
of a little tea, Avhich Is not to be found where Ave were going,
we trusted to Providence for forage, shelter, and provisions ;
we took neither servant, escort, nor guide. Having in vain
waited for the Aveather to clear, we marched on the 18th
of March for Bir on the Euphrates; but owing to various
delays, could not go more than three hours, and that in
heavy rain ; the evening setting in, and despairing of
reaching a village before dark, we looked about for some

246 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
place of shelter, and at last espied some caverns in the
hills on our right, for Avhich Ave shaped our course; Ave
found here some heaps of stones, Avhich had formerly
been a village, but not a room standing ; Ave therefore
explored the caves, in one of the largest of Avhich Ave
fixed our quarters ; it was very roomy, formed in the
side of the hill Avith a Ioav entrance, and appeared to
have been tenanted by cattle, as the floor Avas covered
Avith dirt, and in a corner, parted off, Avas a large supply
of straw. By the time Ave had disencumbered our horses,
and spread our beds in this ¦ comfortable refuge, a herd of
oxen began crowding into the cavern, accompanied by
a party of fellahs, who had taken up their temporary
abode in these caves, Avhile employed in cultivating the
neighbouring fields ; they did not evince any ill Avill at
finding us in possession, but, on the contrary, drove some
of their cattle into the other caves, to alloAV more room
for our horses, and furnished us with barley for them,
and what hard fare their slender commissariat afforded
for ourselves ; they seemed a happy quiet race, calling
themselves Yezidies ; but Avhether they were so or fire-
worshippers (as I had been told there Avere some of these
north of Aleppo) or Druses, I had no means of deciding ;
but my impression was that their OAvn account of them
selves was not the true one ; they were very musical,
and entertained us with a tolerable guitar, and a long pipe
like a flageolet; their' performance Avas melodious, and
far from deficient in taste. We enjoyed a delightful
night's rest, untormented by the entomological Avorld, our
repose almost unbroken, except by the cattle that were
pulling the straAV from under our beds when their OAvn
allowance Avas exhausted.
The next day the weather was still rainy ; we mounted,
hoAvever, and marched across fertile plains, our road lying
partly along the bank of the Aleppo river; we passed
a large camp of about fifty black tents on the opposite
or Avestern bank, and were aftenvards informed that the
natives often leave their villages at these seasons and

ASSYRIA.

247

camp out In the valleys to graze their flocks of sheep
and goats ; about three miles from the road, towards the
N.W., Avas a large village called Elghrul. After marching
six hours, we reached the khan and village of Ochteran
Avhere Ave found much difficulty in procuring supplies, and
the weather having partially cleared, we proceeded to
Bambuche, Avhich Ave reached in four hours more ; this
is a large village, with flat roofed houses, where we found
an oda musafir, the people very obliging, and every ac
commodation. The Turkish good felloAvship is sometimes
carried a little too far, though it is still a fault on the
right side : not to mention the coolness Avith which, if you
are a smoker, they take possession of your pipe, and,
filling it out of your OAvn bag, smoke aAvay with the
greatest nonchalance: it is not uncommon for a man to
go to the door and, thrusting his naked feet into your
boots or slippers, Avalk across a muddy street or court
yard, regardless of Avhether you may want them in the
meantime, or of the dirt Avith which they may return
loaded : as happened to me.
March 20. — In four hours we reached the Sadjur, a
large rapid brook Avhich Aoavs into the Euphrates : we
forded this stream, the right bank of which rises in high
abrupt cliffs, through Avhich the road descends. In three
hours more Ave stopped at Ekergee, Avhere, as usual, we
found an oda and good accommodation, though the place
was very small. The Sheik Avas a very intelligent man ;
he talked a great deal of Captain Lynch, who, he said,
had remained here several months : this was at the time
of Colonel Chesney's expedition to the Euphrates, when
our stores and people Avere continually passing- from the
depot at the mouth of the Orontes to Bir on the Eu
phrates. The country from Aleppo to Bir consists of fine un
dulating plains, with numerous scattered villages. The
next day Ave crossed a stream over a bridge of three
arches, and saw a range of snoAvy mountain peaks to the
north. Just beyond this stream is the field of the battle

248 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
of Nezib, between the Turks and Egyptians, extending
about eight miles on our left ; our road was streAvn Avith
balls and fragments of shells ; this battle, Avhich estab
lished the dominion of the Pacha of Egypt in Syria, was
fought on the 24th June, 1839; according to Mr. Ains-
Avorth's account, published in the London Geographical
Journal, the Egyptian army, including irregulars, amounted
to 34,300, Avith 1 10 guns, the Turks numbering 33,200, Avith
160 pieces of artillery; he states that three regiments
of Turkish cavalry remained inactive during the conflict.
The Egyptian prisoners and deserters gave way at once,
and the Bashi-bozeuks, Avho had been appointed to support
the extreme left, marched to the tent where the treasury
was kept, and began plundering that, and the rest of their
OAvn camp ; this naturally dreAV the attention of the
Turks to the protection of their baggage, and, although
they fought Avith great bravery, they were thus throAvn
into disorder, and eventually put to flight. I Avas told
in Syria that at one period of this conflict Ibrahim Pacha
had decided on retreating, and Avas only dissuaded by the
French General, Suleiman Pacha, who was much praised
by Mohammed Ali, and much hated by Ibrahim in
consequence. Mr. Ainsworth was compulsorily present
at this battle, having been detained by the Turkish
General, that he might be a witness of his anticipated
victory, by Avhich he became involved in the perils of
the flying rout.
In four hours we came to the verge of the basin of the
Euphrates, from whence the ground descends in successive
slopes to the bed of the river. Between the Euphrates
and Aleppo, the country consists of fertile undulating
plains, Avithout Avood, Avith numerous villages. Feeding
on the fields Avere large flocks of black ibis ; this bird
is about the size of a raven, the plumage changing in
the different lights to purple and green, the head is bald
and red, and the neck ornamented with a ruff of hackles ;
here I first saAv the red Avattled plover, Vanellus Goensis.
The vieAv of Birejek from this side of the river is remark-

ASSYRIA. 249
ably picturesque; the formation of the valley gives the
Euphrates the appearance of great breadth, and just
opposite the toAvn it spreads out into a Avide expanded
reach ; the opposite bank is abrupt and precipitous, the
houses of Bir being carried up the slopes and crowning
the heights : to the south extend a range of conical hills ;
and forming part of the town to the north, springing
from perpendicular cliffs, rises a tall old Saracen castle
of yelloAV stone ; the holes and ledges of the cliffs were
peopled with the ibis above mentioned, which make their
nests in every holloAv and crevice, and round the towers
and walls of the castle Avheeled innumerable pigeons,
starlings, and haAvks, screaming and filling the air with
discordant clamour. We Avere ferried over the river in
a curious boat, very Avell adapted for carrying cattle,
being very light, high astern, and with no boAvs ; it was
made of short planks fastened together, one overlapping
the other. The toAvn appeared to be very dirty, caused
in a great measure by the numerous springs, which, de
scending from the top of the cliffs, find their way through
the precipitous streets, stagnating wherever the water finds
a level. We Avere told that there Avas a house still occupied
by the stores belonging to the Euphrates expedition, but
no one was in charge of it. The people of Bir are very
different from those Ave have left; they are more Arab
in make and aspect, disobliging and even insolent; they
are probably a mixed race, for here the Koords, Arabs
and Turks abut on each other.
We had reached this in six hours, and it being still
early, wished to push on to another village, as there is
always more delay and difficulty in procuring lodging
in a tOAvn ; and accordingly ascended through the toAvn,
on the outskirts of Avhich Avere some extensive caverns
excavated from the cliffs betAveen Avhich the road passed,
ranges of massive stone pillars being left to support the
superincumbent hill ; these caves served the purpose
of khans for cattle and travellers, and had no appear
ance of sculpture. On reaching the summit of the ascent,

250 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
the retrospective view Avas very grand : the slopes im=-
mediately beneath us were clothed with hanging gardens
and trees, intersected by . rushing brooks ; beyond, lay the
town, with the river winding aAvay through the valley
to the north and south, betAveen Avhite cliffs on this side
and slopes of red soil on the opposite bank. The ground
being verdant Avith long grass, we hobbled our horses to
pasture for an hour ; and then proceeded by the Orfa road,
passing several springs and pools of pellucid water, from
whence rise the streams that supply Bir. We had not
gone far when Ave met a party of respectable Turks, by
whom we were informed that there was no resting-place
for ten hours further, and Avho advised our return to the
town, as the country between Bir and Orfa was swarming
with robbers, and unsafe at all times, but more so at night :
Ave therefore returned, and scrambling down a bye-road
in the cliffs, made our way to the house of the Mutsellim,
which is perched on a point to which we ascended by
a Avinding road. The old governor gave us coffee, and
sent for the head of the Armenians, to whom we Avere
consigned, with orders to provide us with what Ave wanted.
FolloAving our conductor, he first tried to quarter us, I
believe, in his own house, but Avas met with such a storm
of words from all the Avomen as shoAved him how vain it
was to persevere, and after half an hour's patient endurance
of their shrill uproar, during Avhich they refused to produce
the key of the desired room, finding we could neither
soften nor frighten them, Ave gave up the attempt; and
we had to travel up and doAvn for some time before the
old blue-robed Armenian succeeded in lodging us in a
vacant room, close under the froAvning walls of the ruined
castle. I walked out in the evening, and was struck Avith
the appearance of the feAv horses I saw ; they are of a finer
breed and better class of Arab than I have yet fallen in
with ; a number of young men Avere assembled in an open
space, playing at hop step and jump, leaping, and other
diversions. As the people here are not well-inclined
towards strangers, and I thought there was an appear-

ASSYRIA. 251
ance of their leaving their sports to mob the Frank,
I Avent and sat doAvn in the centre of a toav of elders,
Avho Avere sitting along the side of the street looking
on, and Avho immediately made Avay for me, Avhen the
sports continued, and they seemed pleased that I should
take an interest in their amusements.
We marched the next day, nine hours, the weather
having cleared for the present ; Ave passed one or two
little villages at a distance from the road, and some
caves in the hills, so that Ave might have found shelter,
had Ave yesterday continued our road. We slept at Shar-
melik, a small mud village, Avith conical roofs, a large
khan, Avith a good Avell of water of great depth, to which
a flight of stairs descended.
March 2j. — The sloping plains of yesterday continued
for four hours, Avhen we entered a bad road through rocky
hills, until the road descends into the plains of Orfa ; there
is a made road down the pass, the beetling cliffs of black
rocks on either side being full of caves and sepulchral exca
vations. From the summit of the descent, the eye wanders
unimpeded across the plains of Mesopotamia, till they
mingle with the horizon ; in the foreground is the large town
of Orfa, surrounded by rich cultivation ; this Ave reached in
nine hours. Orfa, called formerly Edessa, Avas the capital
of the principality of Godfrey of Bouillon after the Cru
sades ; it is noAV a Availed toAvn, Avith a numerous Egyptian
garrison ; to the south is a hill on which rise the ruins
of an old fortress of the Saracens, planted in the middle
of which are two tall Corinthian columns, built of stone;
they are said to be inscribed Avith a Syrian legend, and
are mentioned in the Jehan Nama. Orfa is also supposed,
on. the authority of tradition, to be the Ur of Abraham ;
there is a large mosque dedicated to him, called Ibrahim
el Khalil, a very elegant building, Avith graceful minarets,
and surrounded by cypress, on the margin of a large tank,
full of sacred fish, Avhich are supposed to have been there
since the time of the Patriarch; there are several other
pools, also swarming Avith these fish, which resemble

252 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
chub, and groAv to a large size ; they are extremely tame,
coming in shoals to the margin to be fed, and there are
always people selling parched pulse to the pilgrims and
believers for the purpose of feeding them ; a great many
of these holy fish find their way into the canteens of the
soldiers, who are not so scrupulous ; nor are their European
officers. Fine ruins of Christian churches exist at Orfa :
there are 400 or 500 Armenian families and some JeAvs.
We lodged in the house of an Armenian ; these people
are extremely ignorant, but very industrious and clever
traders ; the principal men among them have no knowledge
of their OAvn history ; they had some tradition of a Sultan
of theirs, called Abcar, Avho lived near Issus (Abgarus,
I suppose, the last King of Edessa, sent in chains to
Rome by Caracalla A.D. 216); they were converted to
Christianity A.D. 300.
We found several Europeans attached to the troops, two
doctors and a band master ; they all complained bitterly
of the station, the bad character of the people, and the
scarcity of provisions ; from Dr. Comnenus, a Hungarian,
we received much attention, and he accompanied us
to Avait on the Pacha ; Ave had been told that it Avas
extremely dangerous to proceed by our proposed route,
this frontier being in a very unsettled state; we rode
through the town to the Pacha's palace, meeting with
much bad language in the streets, which confirmed my
impression of the evil disposition of these people ; the
women have a very forbidding appearance, Avearing veils
of black horsehair, Avhich alloAV them to see Avithout
being seen. Some of the houses are very well built of
hewn stone. In the square before the Pacha's palace
were several fieldpieces. We found the Pacha, a little fat
round man, at his toilet, and a barber engaged exposing
the development of his phrenology ; he had no objection
to receiving us, and Avith the usual Turkish urbanity. In
a short time Majoun Bey, the commander of the irregular
Arabs, of Avhich there is a large body stationed here to
make excursions and push forward the Egyptian frontier,

ASSYRIA. 253
came and formed one of our party ; so Ave gained some
insight into the state of affairs, and Avere able to appreciate
the obstacles that lay in the AA-ay of our progress. It appears
that the Arabs from the neighbourhood of Bagdad had
this year moved to the north in great force, plundering
the villages, carrying off the flocks, and driving the nomad
Koords, who pasture on these plains, before them to the
Turkish and Syrian frontiers. Majoun Bey had been out
against them, and managed to take some of them by
surprise ; and he informed us that another expedition Avas
preparing to start in a feAv days, Avhen we could ac
company him until past all danger, and he Avould put
us in the road to Mardin, to the vicinity of Avhich place
he was going. We Avere highly delighted with this
arrangement, and anticipated much pleasure from the
foray, which would give us an insight into their mode
of warfare, and promised some novelty. He promised to
let us know when he intended marching, and we left
him ; but the next afternoon, to our great disappointment,
Ave Avere informed that in consequence of receiving sudden
intelligence of the movements of the Arabs, he had marched
early that morning, Avithout giving us notice. To overtake
his Bedouin horsemen Avith a day's start Avas impossible
with our cattle, so Ave were obliged to subdue our vexation
and take measures for starting alone. The Pacha advised
our taking a northerly route through Diarbekir; but as
this Avould have taken us into the high road, and Ave
wished to avoid a beaten track, we thanked him for his
advice, but could not profit by it; he then very kindly
offered us an escort across the plains, which Ave declined,
as it would only expose us to hostilities on a~ disturbed
frontier, without being able to protect us, and in fact the
half dozen men he might have furnished us would have
run aAvay on the first appearance of danger. At last it
was arranged that Ave should take a letter from the Pacha
to a principal chief of the wandering Koords, Avho had
come to the vicinity of Orfa for protection ; Avith a request
to forward us from camp to camp until out of danger.

254 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
The chief's name Avas Atash Bey ; he was the head of the
Djilab tribes ; this is the name of a river which Aoavs
doAvn towards Harran, on Avhich these Koords are settled,
and from which they take their name. This being settled
satisfactorily, Ave returned to prepare for our departure.
On this road from Damascus by Aleppo and to Nisibin,
the bread has a peculiar unpleasant bitter taste, Avhich
I can only account for from the ovens being heated with
Avormwood (Absinthe : Artemisii), with Avhich these plains
abound, and Avhich forms their chief fuel ; the essential
oil from this aromatic herb being volatilized penetrates
the bread exposed to its action.
March 28. — The Pacha having sent us a horseman as
a guide, and the letters he had promised, we set off this
morning across the cultivated plains, taking an easterly
direction ; we were accompanied for two hours by Dr.
Comnenus, from whom we had experienced so much
kindness, and Avho would not part Avith us until he had
impressed it on our guide's mind to take every care of
us. We then turned a little northerly, through a range
of Ioav rocky hills, and passed the little stream of Djilab,
close to the villages of Simbeg and Hadr, which are
situate on opposite banks of the stream, Hadr being
on a mound to the north-east of the former: Ave stopped
here to inquire our road ; it appeared to be a large village,
with a great deal of cultivation around it, and the people
Avere well dressed ; the houses Avere flat-roofed. Being
shown the direct road to the head-quarters of the Djilab,
we continued our march through Ioav hills, a branch of
the Abd el Aziz mountains winding east and south-east,
with pools of Avater in the holloAvs, impregnated Avith
red earth. In a gorge we came suddenly to a camp
of twenty-five tents, the chief of which Avas one of the
handsomest figures I ever met with ; he was tall and
commanding, with handsome aquiline features, Avith a
magnificent turban; and. in his flowing robe, girt at the
waist with his SAvord, and a light burnoose over his
shoulders, as he came out with some of his people to

ASSYRIA.

255

welcome us and entreat us to pass the night under the
shadow of his tents, I could almost fancy myself living
in the time of the patriarchs : he was picturesque in ap
pearance, and dignified in manner ; as we Avished to reach
the camp of Atash Bey before dark, we declined his hospi
tality with thanks, and he sent us on our way with a bless
ing. 1 am convinced that much of the difficulty many
travellers experience in these and other unfrequented-
countries, arises from their taking escorts and Tatars,
who are looked on by the people Avith an evil eye, and
who, being armed Avith a little authority, maltreat and
tyrannize over the natives, Avho naturally show resistance,
to the great inconvenience and sometimes danger of the
traveller. We had been advised before and after leaving
England, particularly to avoid the Koordish frontier, the
inhabitants of Koordistan being described as cut-throats
and plunderers ; but after traversing a few of these eastern
countries, our eyes Avere opened to all these absurd reports;
so long as you behave properly towards them, you will
receive good treatment at their hands, and I was not
sorry that our road had noAV brought us in contact with
them, as it has enabled me to judge for myself, and
I can now say that, after seeing much of the Koords
on the plains from Orfa to Mardin, and afterwards in
the mountains by Jezirah and Zacu, Ave invariably found
them frank, hospitable, and honest ; but I am anticipating
my journal.
After crossing several small brooks, Ave came to the
descent of the hills, from the summit of Avhich we looked
down on the plains covered with black tents and flocks,
stretching aAvay to the south, as far as the eye could reach ;
among these was the camp of which we were in search,
at which we arrived after marching ten hours ; this camp
Avas composed of fifty large tents. We were accommo
dated in an enormous tent belonging to the chief, of black
hair cloth, and supported by fifteen or twenty poles ; three
or four of these are placed fan form, springing from the
same centre, across the breadth of the tent, Avith a long

256 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
interval betAveen each set ; on these the cloth roof rests,
and is fastened down at the edges to pegs in the ground ;
the mat partitions, of Avhich there are several, are made
of split reeds embroidered Avith patterns of coloured
worsted ; one end of this tent is open and public, and
here our horses stood under cover : another apartment
had a fire hearth, and Avas spread Avith carpets and felts
for guests : in the other divisions the females were busy
at their household affairs, hand-weaving and cooking.
The men are not tall, but stout and well made ; they
Avear long white linen trousers, very Avide at the ancle;
over these they have a Avhite shirt or tunic, with a leathern
belt round the waist ; this shirt, is open at the sides, and
from the four corners hang long tails or streamers, about
an inch wide and terminating in a point The better sort
wear a cloak and turban, others merely a handkerchief or
bit of rag round the head ; they have donkeys and a
feAv camels for carrying their tents, as Avell as some small
coavs, but very feAV horses; their riches consist in their
flocks of sheep and goats. After sitting a short time Avith
the circle round the fire, Atash Bey made his appearance,
when the whole party rose as a mark of respect for the
Chief ; he was a tall thin old man, with a white beard ; he
welcomed us to his tents, and then advised us to go by
Severek and Diarbekir, as it would be most dangerous to
cross the plains, Avhich are scoured by the Arabs in all
directions ; and he feared the responsibility if anything
happened to us ; he said he had just received intelligence
that there was a party of the Anaze1 to the north of them,
about four hours off (this Ave afterwards found was true) ;
but, imagining that the Pacha had instructed him to
dissuade us, we determined to proceed at all risks. We
1 Although here and at Orfa these Arabs are called Anaze, they are really
the Shammar, the most powerful tribe of the Syrian deserts. Their chief,
Sufuke, was lately a prisoner of the Turks at Constantinople ; he was after
wards liberated, the Sultan retaining his son as a pledge for his good behaviour,
and I have no doubt that it is by order of the Porte that the Arabs are now
harassing the frontier of Mohammed Ali in Syria. The head-quarters of these
Arabs is at Al Modain (Ctesiphon) south of Bagdad.

ASSYRIA.

257

asked the Chief Avhy they did not make a stand and
resist the encroachments of the Arabs; he said that the
Arabs Avere superior to them in having the advantage of
being well mounted, Avhereas they had feAv horses among
them. All uncivilized Avarriors have a great dread of
cavalry. The old Bey had a fine intelligent little boy, Avho seemed
much amused examining our dress, guns and everything
belonging to us, and his delight Avas at its height when
Ave gave him one of those little flat child's accordions,
and shoAved him how to play it ; he could scarcely believe
it was his OAvn, but soon scampered aAvay to exhibit his
prize ; and Ave heard him performing in the harim for the
amusement of the Avomen. I think this gained the father's
heart too, for after aAvhile he at last reluctantly consented
to fonvard us to another camp in the morning. After
assisting to demolish a large pillaf made of a lamb, we
retired to rest.
The next morning two horsemen Avere in waiting at dawn
to conduct us on our road ; these men carried long spears,
Avith black ostrich feather tassels hanging below the point ;
they galloped about, flourishing their spears, I imagine
to inspire themselves Avith courage in case of danger, for
they made anxious inquiries of every individual Ave fell
in with as to the movements of the Arabs. The next
camp belonged to a chief named Eyoub Bey. Our guides,
however, took us a long round to avoid the enemy. We
first retraced part of our Avesterly road toAvards Orfa, and
then struck north into the hills, and reached the camp
of Ayoub Bey about midday, just in time to join a party
of guests Avho Avere partaking of an excellent pillaf_of kid.
The party consisted of another chief named Mohammed
Bey, with six horsemen, who were returning to their tents
from Orfa.
Ayoub Bey Avas absent, but Mohammed Bey, hearing
of our wish to proceed toAvards Mardin, begged Ave would
accompany him to his camp, Avhere he would entertain
us for the night, and fonvard us on our road in the
17

VOL. I.

258 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
morning, to Avhich considerate offer we gladly acceded.
Mohammed Bey seemed a very superior man ; he was very
intelligent, Avith a thoughtful expression of countenance,
and a frankness of demeanour, which Avere quite pre
possessing and very uncommon in Oriental countries, where
the general character is either shreAvd cunning, or apathetic
indifference. We were noAV a strong party, and took a winding course
N. and N.E. through the hills toward the Kara Dagh;
we encountered numerous parties of Koords moving in
all directions, but mostly proceeding to the vicinity of
Orfa, all fleeing from the Arabs, who had carried their
depredations to the foot of the mountains ; their property,
consisting of their tents, poultry, and furniture, was
packed on coavs, camels and donkeys ; on these also
were carried some of their infants in baskets, and the
young kids and lambs that were too weak to Avalk ;
their progress was very dilatory, as they drove their
flocks before them and Avere accompanied by their
women and children. The alarm seemed to be general,
and although Ave Avere strong enough to have made a
very respectable fight, I have little doubt, had a party
of Arabs appeared, that the Koords would have imme
diately sought their OAvn safety in flight and abandoned
us to their mercy; our only hope was in the Chief, who
I do not think would have forsaken his trust, and his
men might possibly have stood by him : I Avas not sorry,
eventually, that we had no occasion to put their fidelity to
the test, although we soon had evidence of the presence of
the enemy.
Towards evening, Avhen about tAvo miles from the
camp, we fell in with a stray goat, which they supposed
had dropped from fatigue, and been overlooked by the
shepherds : one of the horsemen dismounted and took it
up before him on his saddle ; however, as we proceeded,
we found sheep lying about in different places, some tired
and others lame, and Ave now began to suspect that all
was not right, Avhich was soon confirmed by messengers

ASSYRIA. 2jq
coming out from the camp Avith the intelligence that the
Arabs had attacked the shepherds about midday, and
carried off three hundred sheep and goats ; it seems that
Ave had crossed their line of retreat, and if Ave had been a
few hours earlier, should have come in collision with the
foragers. I was extremely grieved that this misfortune
should have happened to an estimable man, and one who
had shown us so much kindness: he naturally felt his
loss, but shoAved no impatience at the bloAv ; and hearing
that his family were safe, like Job, he blessed God, and
hastened to meet them.
A little further on, Ave approached the ruins of a village,
with two or three stunted trees on a mound, which was
occupied by a clump of spears; here Ave found a party
of twenty horsemen, on all sorts of cattle, and variously
armed, who had turned out to make a shoAv of pursuit.
They all returned with their chief, and we reached the
camp in about nine hours ; here we saAv the lambs and
kids, which are kept in camp while the mothers go to
graze, running about seeking them in vain, and filling
the air with their plaintive cries.
The Chief Avas met at the door of his tent by his children ;
he embraced them with great affection and seemed at the
moment to have forgotten the loss of his flocks. After
welcoming us to his tent, he Avent in to his family, but
joined us at supper, and discussed his mishap Avith great
• composure ; but gave orders to have everything ready for
decamping in the morning, as he intended to move nearer
to the frontier for protection.
Before leaving our friend Mohammed Bey, and while
sitting at breakfast in the morning, a party of three men
on baggage horses joined us from Orfa. One of these,
a young man, Avas dressed in the height of Aleppine
finery, a gold-laced frock, silk turban and sash, and the
rest in keeping ; the others seemed to be his servants :
from his display in dress, his bragging of his Avealth, but,
above all, his not eating anything but Avhat he killed
himself and his OAvn people cooked, I concluded he

260 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
Avas a JeAV, which Avas aftenvards confirmed, on hearing
that many of the Damascus JeAvs had escaped Avith their
property to Bagdad, when the persecution Avas raised
against them in the former city. He passed himself off
as a Moslem and professed to be well acquainted Avith the
road to Mardin; in consequence of this, Ave joined company,
but soon discovered that he knew nothing of the track,
and we were obliged to take guides from one camp to
another; his object seemed to be to have the advantage
of our protection as Englishmen : his bags were heavily
freighted, and his appearance was calculated to excite
the cupidity of the natives, of which I will presently
relate one instance. Our course Avas sometimes south, and
at other times easterly, with the range of Kara Dagh
(Mount Masius) running east and west on the left ; the
Avind was very boisterous ; we passed many remains of
villages and several streams, running south to the Khabur.
In eight hours we came to a ruin, consisting of old Avails,
standing on a basement built of stone, of superior Avork-
manship ; several truncated columns were lying about ; it
appeared to be a Greek temple. A feAV hundred yards
from this Avas a large encampment belonging to Moham
med Bey, the Sheik of Ras-el-Ain, who welcomed us Avith
the utmost hospitality ; he lodged our horses under the
tent,, and ourselves in a neat inner room, formed of cane
screens, where, as soon as we Avere installed, he gave us
an account of his disasters. He Avas a fine-looking man,
although with a dark and rather forbidding countenance;
he Avas handsomely dressed in a green quilted satin caftan,
lined with crimson silk, and a large Avhite turban over
a black shaAvl, the three corners of Avhich hung down
Arab fashion on his shoulders and back ; he Avas the
chief of the tribe of Herdooh, numbering 200 tents, Avho
had long possessed the country about Ras-el-Ain, a fine
fertile district on the Khabur river ; but during the late
irruption of the Arabs, his country had been invaded
by a horde of the Anazie, as they are here called,
Avho had carried off several thousand head of cattle, and

ASSYRIA. 26l
compelled him to seek safety by a rapid flight, as he
said ; this Avas very hard on him and his people, who Avere
Arabs themselves. He was also deprived of a large source
of Avealth in the rich sulphur Avells of Ras-el-Ain, the
produce of which he disposed of to Ibrahim Pacha; from
his description, it Avould appear that the native sulphur,
or the mineral in a very pure state, is deposited at the
bottom of some large pools or wells, fed by springs, on
the banks of the Khabur, Avhere men dive or go down
with buckets and collect it ; the Avater runs off into the
river; different from our friend of yesterday, the Arab
complained bitterly of his losses, and voAved vengeance
against his invaders ; he said he was determined, as soon
as he had left his camp safe, to go back with his people
and recover his country; he was probably attacked by
the Arabs for allowing Majoun Bey to make Ras-el-Ain
a rendezvous in his excursions against them, besides
supplying the Egyptian Government with sulphur. The
Sheik ordered a sheep to be killed, and we had an im
mense pillaf, served as usual Avith large flaps of bread spread
round the dish, Avhich answered the double purpose of food
and tablecloth, and boAvls of sour milk by way of sauce
piquante. Our Israelitish road companion ate by himself,
and Avas of course suspected of sailing under false colours.
They have remarkably handsome Persian greyhounds
on these plains ; the Sheik offered us our choice of his,
Avhich was a great temptation, but Ave could not encumber
ourselves with them on such a journey. Neither here
nor at the Koordish camps, could Ave induce the people
to accept any remuneration for our entertainment ; it Avas
considered a slur on their hospitality. I am aAvare that
with some of these people, Arabs particularly, they are
loud in their protestations against being paid, at the same
time that they are actually receiving a gratuity, and will
even grumble if it is not considered enough ; but here
it was not the case : and any person, and I have had some
experience, with a little observation, can easily distinguish
betAveen their real meaning and their actual profession.

262 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
In the morning, tAvo more Arab travellers having joined
us, Ave marched across the plains, noAV covered with verdure ;
crossing numerous muddy ditches, formed by rivulets from
the hills, in which the horses Avere often nearly swamped ;
we also crossed several large streams, with black rocky beds,
near Avhich there were usually mounds, on Avhich villages
had formerly stood, but Avhich were now only occupied
by a few huts or black tents, inhabited by half a dozen
stout fellahs, Avho cultivated a little patch of ground, Avith
the variety, probably, of occasionally relieving a helpless
traveller of his superabundance of baggage. This would
certainly have been the lot of our friend from Damascus,
had he been alone. The man who had joined us Avith
his servant at the last camp was an inhabitant of Koh
Hissar, a large village in the plain south of Mardin, to
which he was going ; he was a tall well-dressed man, and
well-mounted, but of a sinister expression of countenance,
and very reserved ; he stopped two or three times at these
groups of hovels, to light his narghileh, and twice after he
left them, one of the peasants followed him on the road
and detained him in conversation for a quarter of an hour ;
we thought at first that he might have business with them,
but the repetition excited our suspicions, and, on pressing
him, he at length told us that we were in a very dangerous
country, and that these people had been tempted by the
dashing dress and substantial appearance of our com
panion's bags ; but afraid to attack so large a party,
Avere endeavouring to persuade him to join them in their
plundering speculation and share the spoil, to Avhich of
course he would not agree. The JeAV was much alarmed,
for I have no doubt he had valuable property with him,
and urged us to push on. It is very probable that there
was some danger and some mischief meditated ; but what
our pretended friend stated would not have happened
tAvice following, or originated with tAvo sets of people,
and I therefore put a different version on the affair, and
verily believe that it Avas he himself Avho wished these
people to join him in the scheme for plundering the

ASSYRIA. 263
traveller, from Avhich they Avere only deterred by our
presence and double-barrelled guns; had it not been for
this protection, he certainly Avould never have reached
Mardin, and there is no hope of redress in these deserts,
where every man's hand is against his neighbour ; when
we arrived at Mardin, he said he Avould go on with a
caravan, and we heard no more of him.
The numerous streams from Mount Masius, Avest of
Mardin, feed the Khabur, which unites with the Eu
phrates ; at their confluence ought to be found the ruins
of the Mausoleum Avhich the Roman army raised to
their Emperor, Gordian the Third. After marching ten
hours, we stopped for the night at a small camp of five
Koord tents.
April 1. — Yesterday Avas rainy; but although we had
an April morning, at tAvelve it set in a storm of jjhail and
sleet with a drifting east wind. Two hours from our
halting-place we passed the village of Mshkoka, in a
rocky situation, the ground surrounding it being composed
of black porous rock, Avith which also the plain was strewn.
When the weather cleared, the mountains to Avhich we had
been approaching loomed black, ragged and picturesque ;
on one of the highest pinnacles stood the toAvn of Mardin,
above it towering the citadel, the Avails of which are built
up from, and seem a continuation of, the rocky scarps on
which it Avas perched ; from the plain it has a most
romantic appearance : Ave had to ascend to this eyry by
a paved road, winding up and round the sides of the
hill ; we waited on the Governor, Kerim Pacha, who
was sitting in durbar; he was polite, as usual, informed
us that the Nisibin road was quite safe, and consigned us
to the Sheik of the Armenians, who are numerous here,
by Avhom Ave were very Avell lodged. Mardin is a large
Turkish town built of stone, but from its position the
streets are narroAv and the houses descending in suc
cessive terraces, the upper street sometimes spreading
over the roofs of the houses immediately beneath it, so
that we Avere often Avalking on the tops of the houses,

264 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
without being aAvare of it ; the toAvn is walled and
garrisoned Avith Turkish troops, for it was supposed that
Mohammed Ali wished to extend his conquests in this
direction. To-day's march Avas nine hours. It Avas on
these plains near Mardin that Tamerlane encamped Avhen
subduing Mesopotamia.
On rising in the morning we found the houses and
mountains covered with snow ; quite an English scene.
The Pacha Avas to have sent a guide Avith us ; but, as he
was not ready when Ave passed the palace, we marched on
without him, slipping and scrambling down the road Ave
had ascended the day before, meeting with a succession
of snow-storms, which assailed us at the opening of every
gorge of the hills ; coming to the bottom, we took a
direction south-east, across spongy grass plains, inter
sected by ditches and spring-heads, leaving Dara on the
left under the hills : this place is said to possess some
interesting ruins, but we could not spare time to go out
of our track to visit it : it was formerly a large town
under the Greek Emperors, and being a frontier station
Avas strongly fortified against the Persians. We stopped
half an hour during some rain at the ruins of Serka Kon,
the walls of a small fort, In which were a few dark smoky
hovels inhabited by shepherds : and in ten hours reached
Nisibin, on the small river Mygdonius ; before coming to
this place, now only a large village, we passed a large
square stone building, like a barrack, which appeared to
be unoccupied ; an officer, Avith a party of Turkish
soldiers, was in charge of this place ; by him Ave Avere
provided Avith quarters in a long barn-like mud cabin,
in which Avere a man and his family ; the people here
were rather disobliging, and would not procure us any
thing until first paid for it.
Nisibin Avas a tOAvn of great importance in former times ;
it Avas a large, populous, fortified city, and the scene of
the struggles betAveen the Romans and Persians, and taken
by each alternately, during the decline of the Roman Em
pire : until the disgraceful peace made by Jovian with

ASSYRIA. 265
Sapoor, King of Persia, at Dura, on the Tigris, to secure
a safe retreat across Mesopotamia : he then agreed to
give up all the Roman territories in that country, in
cluding Singara, a city in the Singar Hills, and Nisibin,
although he Avas then at the head of a large army,
shaming the name of Romans. The inhabitants of Nisi
bin begged to be allowed to defend their own houses
against the Persians ; but Jovian, although neither a
general nor a patriot, Avas faithful to his agreement, and
compelled the people to abandon their hearths, with their
families and movables, in sorroAving and mournful pro
cession, Avhen Nisibin Avas occupied by a Persian garrison.
He thus purchased safety for himself by the sacrifice of
the Roman territory, and the dishonour of the Roman
name. Compared Avith this shameful peace of Jovian,
how different Avas the conduct of the 10,000 Greeks who
forced their way through hostile countries, from Babylon
to the Euxine, rather than submit to a degrading ac
commodation. April J. — We marched twelve hours to-day from Nisi
bin to Chelagha ; it Avas severe Avork, the road being cut
up by the rivulets from the hills, Avhich occurred every
quarter of a mile, and Avhich strained and distressed the
horses in plunging through them. We crossed three
larger streams, on one of which, half-Avay, Avas the large
village of Hosnaour, on a high mound ; on the banks of
the stream Avere a few Avretched-looking trees, which
served to support some storks' nests. The general ap
pearance of the country is a treeless plain, with hills on
the left ; the villages, hoAvever, are numerous, from Nisibin
to Chelagha. The Aga of this place was one ofthe greatest
rascals I have met with ; his object appeared to be to
make us pay him for an escort, and I believe he invented
most of the stories he recounted of the dangers of the
road from here to Mosul. He assured us that their OAvn
flocks had been carried off by the Yezedies of the Sinjar
mountains; who infested the road in such force that a
thousand horse could not pass ; one story of course about

266 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
as true as the other ; it was not his interest to inform
us that a party of horsemen were marching the next
day, but Avhich Ave afterwards discovered. The road to
Mosul is certainly one of the most dangerous in these
parts, from the incursions of the people of the Sinjar,
who inhabit a range of hills to the south and in sight
of this, and Avho are noted plunderers ; but there Avere
other reasons which induced us to take a more indirect
road : there seemed no prospect of a cessation of the
rains, and there was no shelter or village to be found
for the four days we should be out on the direct road :
besides which, the road by Jezirah-ibn-Omar to the north
was much more interesting, bringing us on to the route
of Xenophon and his Greeks.
We left Chelagha in the morning, taking a guide from
village to village ; but not succeeding in procuring a fresh
one at the first village, we returned to make better arrange
ments ; Avhen, missing the horsemen we had seen here
the day before, Ave discovered that they had marched for
Mosul. After threatening the Aga Avith the vengeance of
the Government, he furnished us with a mounted guide
and more particular orders to the villages; this was ren
dered necessary on account of the intricacy of the tracks
in a country Avhich is hilly, and intersected by torrents ;
our course was first E.N.E. and afterwards N.E. The first
village we reached was the one to which our guide be
longed, and the rain setting in in torrents, Ave were glad to
take shelter in his hut, as horrible a den as ever I was in ;
his wife, whose features could scarcely be distinguished for
smoke and dirt, seemed much delighted at the honour of
having us as guests, and immediately set about cooking ;
and not to offend them we were obliged to remain in
this den and partake of their rather forbidding fare. We
travelled five hours in the rain across a wild and scarcely
inhabited country, to a small village of half a dozen huts,
called Abas, the head man of which went by the name
of Delli Aga (the mad Aga). Here we found shelter
in a hut, already occupied by a horse, a donkey, and

ASSYRIA. 267
several wild-looking dirty Arabs, Avith their long matted
hair streaming over their shoulders. Although the Aga
mustered a pillau for ourselves, Ave could procure no
barley for our horses, and they were forced to rough it
on chopped straw.
The night Avas bitter cold, yet it was scarcely an ad
vantage being cooped up with so many tenants in this
confined hut, and as it Avas Avet withal Ave could not well
turn them out, but confined them to the other end of
the hut, for the Arabs Avere not only dirty, but suspicious
characters : Ave therefore lay doAvn as we were, dressed
and armed, in our cloaks, Avith our saddle-bags for pillows,
and slept as comfortably as in feather beds.
April j. — Mounted in the rain, marching E.N.E., taking
guides from village to village; in tAvo hours we came to
a narrow river called Suffan, much swollen by the rains,
and flowing at a rapid rate ; here our guide, a lad about
eighteen, after pointing out the ford, wished to return,
saying he could not swim, and as it was very deep, he
should be washed away ; hoAvever, it Avas quite impossible
for us to risk the passage without being shown the way,
so we could not listen to his excuses ; the poor felloAv
declared that he should be droAvned, and begged we would
shoot him on the spot ; but as Ave Avanted a feeler across
the water, we could not afford to agree to this proposal,
although much moved by his entreaties and the terrified
looks with which he eyed the bubbling torrent ; at length,
by persuasion and threats, Ave compelled him to strip,
and, telling him to cling to my horse's mane, Ave plunged
into the muddy stream ; the water came above the horse's
shoulder, and soaked our saddle-bags, and the-boy hung
on to my horse's neck, trembling from cold and terror,
but soon forgot his fears on receiving some piastres to
console him. In five hours we reached the village of
Gogerserk, on the banks of a small stream, the Koordish
mountains looming dark and massive in the north. We
alighted at the Aga's, Avhere we procured some refreshment
for ourselves and horses ; in his house we found assembled

268 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
a large circle of Turks and Christians ; they were very
obliging, and gave us every information respecting the
roads ; they told us there was a direct road east to Zacu
by a ferry over the Tigris, at a place called Bishabour,
six hours from here ; but as it Avas uncertain whether Ave
should be able to cross on account of the rains, and Jezirah,
which Ave Avere desirous of seeing, was only four hours to
the north, we procured a guide, and took the road to the
latter place ; we had not proceeded half an hour, Avhen
the rain came down in torrents, Avith thunder and lightning,
which so cut up the ground that we waded through an
ocean of mud, till we came to the margin of the cliffs,
down which the road descends to the valley of the Tigris.
The view from this spot was grand in the extreme ; near
the junction. of the Tigris with another large river was
the toAvn of Jezirah, partly concealed by a tongue of
high land which separated the tAvo rivers ; to the right
the united rivers flowed majestically onward through a
verdant valley, backed by the rugged peaks and dark
precipices of the Jeudi Dagh mountains of Koordistan,
rent into contorted chasms and abrupt masses of gloomy
magnificence ; and spanned by a glorious boAV in vivid
relief against the mountain gloom and the last black
clouds of the retreating storm : overhead the blue sapphire
fields Avere bursting through the silver-edged dispersing
clouds, Avhile the ground at our feet was strewed Avith
wild floAvers. Scrambling down the rocky descent, Ave
came to the bank of the first river; but the passage
did not appear encouraging, although Ave could perceive
the continuation of the track on the opposite bank ;
it Avas evidently much SAvollen by the rains, and was
rushing down with great rapidity to the Tigris, which
it joined a feAV hundred yards farther doAvn ; higher up
were the remains of a bridge, which had been washed
aAvay. As there was no one near to direct us to a better
passage, and having dispensed with our guide two hours
before, we determined to attempt it, and dashed into
the stream ; we had great difficulty in keeping the horses'

ASSYRIA. 269
heads up the stream ; the Avater shot by, and foamed against
their chests and over our knees, they could scarcely keep
their feet and stem the current ; and after Ave were half
across, Ave found ourselves verging on the upper edge of
a rapid, where one false step, or a hole, Avould have sent
us rolling doAvn into the Tigris, unAvept, unhonoured, and
unsung, except by the dirge of the roaring Avaters, and
no one would have knoAvn our fate : we Avere thankful
Avhen a few more plunges placed us safe and dripping
on the other bank, though far beloAV the track; but Ave
had scarcely crossed the tongue of land Avhich separated
us from the toAvn, when Ave had to encounter another
danger of an opposite character. Jezirah is built on a large
island, formed by an arm of the Tigris Avhich Aoavs round
it, and which has to be crossed before reaching the toAvn ;
over this there had formerly been a bridge, of Avhich
nothing now remained but the tall isolated piers: the
places of the arches Avere supplied by a sort of hurdle or
scaffolding, thrown across from one buttress to the other ;
these were formed of two slight poles Avith narrow cross-
boards nailed to and overhanging them on either side;
the water, about twenty feet beneath, looked still and
deep ; it was most nervous Avork leading our horses across
this unfirm footing ; as our Aveight reached the centre
of each interstice, the scaffolding sprung up and down in
a fearful manner, threatening to break or slip from its
support, and plunge us into the gulf beneath ; the third
of these hurdles Avas the most perilous ; one side of it
having given way, It formed a sloping declivity towards
the water ; we could not retreat, and there Avas not
room for a horse to turn, and it Avas with- a great
sense of relief that Ave found ourselves safe on the other
bank. A party of Turks Avho had been apathetically
watching our tight-rope evolutions, asked us what in
duced us to venture across the bridge, which had
only been put up for the passage of goats, while there
was a ford a little loAver down! The toAvn of Jezirah
has a very peculiar appearance, being built entirely of

270 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
black stone ; a great part of it is in ruins, particularly the
old buildings ; part of the Avail which formerly encircled
it still remains. It has a large Romanist Chapel, many
of the people being of that sect ; the building is old,
and has been appropriated to its present purpose, for
which it was not originally destined ; it has a Persian
inscription at the door, Avhich is ornamented Avith some
uncouth sculptures of lions and griffins, with fishes' tails.
The Mussulman population are Koords, their costume
is very curious and quite peculiar, their trousers and
jackets being uniformly made of stuff striped black and
pink ; their turbans had a pink pattern on a black ground,
and were worn very large; it put me in mind of a clan
tartan ; it had not a pleasing effect, for black and pink
do not harmonize. Their houses are also built on a curious
plan, and Avould seem very ill adapted for a cold climate,
which this is in winter, and must be very comfortless. The
house, or rather room, consists of nothing but an arched
vault, entirely open at one end, and having a fire and
chimney place at the other, forming a complete tunnel for
the wind. We went to the house of the Mutsellim, built
on the same plan, Avith some mats hung before it to keep
out the weather ; he was a pompous, self-conceited felloAv,
with the largest turban I ever saw, not less than three
feet in diameter, the necessity for balancing Avhich perhaps
added to the circumspection of his Avalk ; he handed us
over to the Head of the Christians, who took us from house
to house, to procure us accommodation, which the people
did not appear inclined to afford ; there was little vacant
room, judging from the Avay the rooms Avere crammed,
and the Aveather prevented them from sleeping out ; at
one house there Avas a poor Avoman lying ill of a fever,
whom our cicerone was in the act of having obtruded,
bed and all, Avhen Ave protested against it and prevented
the unfeeling action; at length we were fairly landed in
the middle of a family of three generations, where Ave
were forced to make ourselves comfortable; we took the
place next the fire, and had carpets and mats put up to

ASSYRIA. 27I
close the open side of the room : Ave Avere rather plagued
by the curiosity of the people, Avho crOAvded round the
door to peep in, and some of the better dressed, who
were very polite, Avere admitted to the interior fire circle,
and our tunnel was Avell filled Avith black and pink visitors.
These people are slightly made, with fair complexions,
and mild in manner; they speak Turkish and Koordish,
and are armed Avith the short rifle carbine of Anatolia.
Jezirah is a place of some antiquity ; it Avas called
Bezabde ; it is in a very picturesque situation at the foot
of the mountains of Koordistan, from Avhich it is separated
by the Tigris, here a broad and rapid stream ; between
the mountains and the opposite bank of the river, and
following the river north, is the celebrated pass by which
the 10,000 Greeks effected a passage on their retreat from
Babylon, Avhen 'they were so obstinately opposed by the
Carducii or Koords : as they might have crossed the
river on rafts, it is difficult to . imagine Avhy they did not
take the road across the Mardin Hills into Mesopotamia;
perhaps it is a sufficient reason that they Avere ignorant
of the country, or, if not, Avere afraid to return by places
where they would have been exposed to the attacks of
Cavalry. On the 6th the Governor sent a peasant to show us the
road, and Ave Avent doAvn to the ferry over the Tigris
with his people. The apparatus for crossing Avas a little
loose raft made of inflated goatskins over which a slight
frame is fixed; on this Ave embarked with our bags and
saddles, Avhile our horses were swum across by their
halters; the stream was rapid, and Ave drifted a long
way down before Ave were fairly landed in Koordistan.
Our guide, having put us in the track which led to
Zacu, begged to be alloAved to return, and Ave accord
ingly dismissed him ; the road led for some distance
along the left bank of the river ; the weather and scenery
were both fine, and to be riding along entirely alone,
without escort or protection, in a country and place
always considered impassable, on account of the laAvless

272 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
nature of the people, made me begin to doubt Avhether
the millennium had not arrived. Either these and other
people have been much maligned by former visitors, or
a most extraordinary spirit of peace and goodAvill has
diffused itself over these countries, which Ave have traversed,
to make such a change in their natures. My early im
pressions, from reading travels, had led me to imagine
that every Turk Avas a brute, the Albanian a cut-throat,
and the Koord next-of-kin to a cannibal ; and I Avas
agreeably deceived to find the Turks gentlemen : the
Albanians, though far from heroes of romance, plain
soldiers ; and harmless if uninjured : and the Koords hos
pitable and good-natured.1 Had these people been so
very bad as is reported, they might have made aAvay
with us, in the wild district betAveen this and Zacu, Avith
the utmost impunity : their subjection to Turkey is only
nominal, and what revenue they pay is more in form of
a tribute ; these mountaineers would not have much
respect for a Sultan's firman, if indeed men Avere in the
habit of asking for your passport before robbing you ;
but I am proud to think that the name and undisguised
profession of an Englishman is a more powerful pro
tection and safeguard in all countries Avhere we are not
actually at Avar, than any countenance of the local authori
ties ; and this feeling it ought ahvays to be the object
of a traveller to cultivate. I should ahvays recommend
a traveller to carry arms for appearance sake, as it Avill
spare him much molestation from the rabble of tOAvns,
and will command respect from all ; and Avhere there is
nothing to excite the cupidity of the natives, feAv will
venture to attack an armed man, Avhom they know from
the fact of his being alone, Avithout other protection, is
determined to sell his life dear : and Avhen there seems
so little to be gained, they are not fond of risking their OAvn.
FolloAving the course of the river for a feAv miles till
we came opposite the village of Tchonsherref, on the
1 These remarks will not apply to these races in time of war or when excited
by fanaticism ; then they are merciless. — 1882.

ASSYRIA.

273

right bank, we ascended the hills, and in six hours
reached the villages of Tokir and Nanvan, two large
Christian villages, within half a mile of each other, on
a fertile plain, surrounded by rice cultivation ; Ave stopped
at the latter, situated on a fine brook also called Nahr-
RahAvan (The running stream) ; half of these people are
Nestorians, the rest Romanists : they say they settled
here four years ago, having come from the vicinity of
Nisibin; they are nominally subject to the Chief of Jezirah,
but are obliged to pay tribute to the mountaineers for
protection. To the north of this the mountains of
Koordistan rise in black, ragged and perpendicular cliffs,
horribly beautiful ; Avith an aspect of gloomy grandeur,
noAV heightened by the clouds gathering round their
summits, portending more rainy Aveather, which we Avere
not long in realizing ; in fact the rain Avas so continuous
that we Avere forced to remain here the next day. These
people, Avho call themselves Christians, like some of the
same sort at home, seem to think that the profession
exempts them from the exeicise of the duties of the
Christian ; they Avill not bear a comparison Avith the
Mussulman Koords, and are remarkably ignorant, avari
cious and disobliging. Although they pretended to call
us brothers, they endeavoured to overreach us, and it Avas
only by force that Ave could procure common necessaries
from this degraded class. Their hovels Avere very wretched,
and as Ave preferred aA'oiding the vermin likely to be
found in them, Ave lodged in an old vacant coAv-shed,
one half of the roof of Avhich had fallen in; under this
the rain had formed a black pool of water ; the other
end sheltered us and our horses, as comfortless a situa
tion as can Avell be imagined. They had some buffaloes
here; these animals I had not seen since leaving Mace
donia. We could not induce the head of the village to
furnish us Avith foAvls, although there Avere plenty running
about, and I Avas obliged to resort to a curious method
of compelling them : as they are very superstitious, I
threatened to Avrite a charm to make their cattle and
VOT.. T. 1"

274 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
foAvls die ; it Avas amusing to see the faces of alarm the
circle put on at this proposition ; they pretended at first
not to care for it, and I sat doAvn and covered a long
slip of paper Avith se/eral lines of nondescript characters;
they Avere evidently beginning to be frightened : " Now,"
said I, "the charm is Avritten, and I advise you to make up
your minds at once, for if I put my seal to it, I would
not give a piastre for any coav in the village Avithin a
fortnight." I Avas blackening the seal for the purpose ;
but the effect Avas produced, and the Aga promised, if
I would destroy the paper, Ave should have the fowls ;
I accordingly burned the talisman, but even then they
were anxious to knoAv Avhether it might not have some
latent effect, as it had been Avritten ; but I reassured
them by telling them it Avas harmless Avithout my seal.
I knoAv I am- open to blame for encouraging their super
stitious feelings, and I do not attempt to justify it; but
as it happened so, I merely relate the circumstance.
April 8.- — Crossed plains abounding Avith gazelles, and
fhr.lcsd by \>n\<\ and picturesque mountains, on our right
a bold rugged range lay betAveen us and the Tigris. In
Arrowsmith's map the course of the Kabur does not
appear to be correctly laid down : there it is made to
flow directly S.W. by Zacu into the Tigris, to do Avhich
it must floAV over the ridge above mentioned, Avhich lies
N.W. and S.E. between the Tigris and Zacu ; and the
Kabur, after passing this toAvn, takes a bend to the N.W.,
to Avind round the north end of these hills, before it can
join the Tigris. Coming to the banks of the Hezel-Soo,
Avhich are very precipitous, Ave found the stream much
swollen by the rains ; but finding a raft, Ave crossed upon
it, Avhile two men, stripping, mounted our horses and
SAvam them over ; the raft was a most primitive machine
supported by a few goatskins ; it yielded to every Avave
and eddy of the Avater, and gave me the feeling of being
afloat on a jelly-fish.
Our road noAV followed the banks of the Kabur, Avhich
Avas flowing N.W. ; the scenery Avas very fine ; the road

ASSYRIA.

-V5

crosses a bridge above Zacu, Avhich is prettily situated
on a mound close to the water, and Avas once surrounded
by a high stone wall ; the bridge which wc crossed is
a very elegant structure of great height on five arches ;
it is built at a narrow pass where the river rushes through
a rocky gorge and roars over large masses of dark con
glomerate ; we Avent direct to the house, or rather castle,
of the Aga ; he was a fine old man, Avith a long white
beard, and Avas surrounded by a large retinue of brigand-
looking mountaineers, all armed with carved i\rory-handled
daggers and a short rifle ; and many carried wicker shields
about a foot and a half in diameter, with a metal cross
in the centre ; they were all well dressed in picturesque
variety. The old chief Avelcomed us to his house, he
spoke nothing but Koordish, but an interpreter Avas sent
for, at my request, Avho could speak Arabic : he Avas
a HebreAv, an intelligent and remarkably handsome
man, Avho Avas carrying on trade Avith others of his tribe
in the village ; through him the Aga offered us every
hospitality and assistance, and Ave felt ourselves perfectly
at home ; he offered an escort, Avhich Ave declined, in
adherence to our rule. This chief acknowledges alle
giance to Turkey, but Avas living in the old feudal style,
and keeping open house, numerous retainers, and a major
domo or chamberlain ; he Avas more like a petty prince
than a governor of a small town.
We sat Avith the old chief in a verandah surrounded by
his people till evening, the spot commanding an extensive
view of the river and plains by which we had come ; Ave
then adjourned to a large hall, Avhich Avas a reception room
for all strangers and dependents : projecting from the
walls Avere several pairs of horns of the ibex, Avhich they
told us-Avere found in the adjacent mountains; at the
end of the room Avas a large fireplace, Avhere an incipient
blaze Avas meditating the destruction of a huge pile of
logs; down the centre of this hall, spread Avith mats,
were laid a toav of platters heaped Avith mounds of rice,
flanked with flaps of bread ; beside these Avas very soon

276 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
formed a double line of Avayfarers and poor people of the
place, who came to partake of their chief's bounty ; these
Avere all shoAvn their appointed places by the master of
the ceremonies, Avho then gave them the signal to fall
on, which they did in good earnest. A pillau in a little
better style AAras served up to us by ourselves ; after Avhich
the Aga, with his people, came in and a large circle Avas
soon reclining round the blazing hearth, to talk of local
politics or the Avonders of Frangistan, our friend the
Israelite standing interpreter. The exploits of Majoun
Bey and the inroads of the Arabs Avere commented on ;
and they listened Avith incredulity to the Avonders of
steam, the description of European ships and armies,
and the grandeur of the distant ocean. They examined
our arms, and showed us their OAvn ; the Aga Avas par
ticularly pleased Avith our pistols and pocket compasses,
Avhich of course Ave could not part Avith : Mussulmans are
always desirous of obtaining the latter, Avhich they call
the Kebla Namaz, as indicating the situation of Mecca,
towards AA'hich they must turn in praying.1 We Avere
rather amused at a trick of the old Aga's to obtain
some medicine ; being ashamed to expose his ailments,
or rather non-ailments, in public, for it is seldom these
people want remedies for sickness, a man Avas brought
Avho fathered all his complaints, and pretended he
Avanted'the medicine for himself; avc Avere not long in
detecting the fraud; for, besides the prompting he required,
the Aga Avas very pressing that we should supply the
poor man's Avants ; however, Ave parted good friends,
and much pleased Avith our entertainment.
There being no barley produced in the country, Ave
Avere obliged to feed our horses on rice in the husk, of
Avhich, not being accustomed to it, they ate very sparingly,
and Avere consequently unfit for their Avork. A Bashi-
1 Mohammedans are common-sense Ritualists, always praying towards
Mecca, while we turn to the East, imagining we are turning to Jerusalem when
facing Kamskatka. This superstitious practice has come down to us from
the Mithraic or Sun worship, and is a remnant of idolatry.

ASSYRIA.

277

bozeuk soldier, of the Turkish irregular cavalry, who had
been a guest at the castle the night before, said he would
accompany us as he was going to Mosul ; but, as he Avas
not ready at daylight, we started without him : Ave crossed
a bridge over an arm of the river, which insulates the
town ; immediately beyond this the road ascends a steep
romantic mountain gorge, along the verge of a brawling
torrent, the sides of the hills being clothed with shrubs
and verdure ; higher up they were clothed Avith dwarf oak :
descending on the opposite side, Ave found a large village
of flat-roofed houses, the road leading along the foot of
the hills in a S.E. direction. The country to the south
was undulating and bare, with some cultivation near the
Aillages, of Avhich Ave passed several : Ave were joined
during the day by the Bashi-bozeuk, Avho had overslept
himself and stopped to breakfast with the Aga. These
irregulars treat the peasantry very badly, and assert the
little Government authority they possess Avith great
tyranny Avhen they dare : Ave met a man passing in the
opposite direction ; the soldier called to him to examine
if there was a stone in his horse's shoe ; but the man
refused, saying he Avas a fakir ; the soldier immediately
rode up to him, and getting off his horse, struck him a
tremendous bloAV in the chest with the butt end of his
gun, which brought him to the ground, and then kicked
him about till he roared and cried like a child, against
which Ave remonstrated in vain ; he told him that Avould
teach him how to behave to a servant of the Sultan in
future ; and then left him to pursue his way, though AA-ith
rather a heavier step than Avhen Ave met him. My horse
was nearly knocked up before Ave reached Deleb, after
marching ten hours ; and here again Ave could obtain
no barley, and were obliged to feed our horses on grass,
and I hardly expected they Avould carry us to Mosul.
The inhabitants of this village Avere Yezidies ; they are
quiet and hospitable, and a tall well-made race ; they are
said to Avorship the Devil, both by common report and
by the people among A\"hom they live ; this belief is no

278 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
doubt founded on their dread of the PoAver of Evil, Avhom
they endeavour to conciliate and are fearful of offending.
The adArocates of natural religion must perceive from
observation and facts, that all unrevealed religion, or systems
not founded primarily on revelation, must necessarily in
clude the Avorship of a Power of Evil, Avhose Avrath Avill
be deprecated by temples and offerings. The poor Indian,
Avith untutored mind, sees no God in storms, nor in pesti
lence and famine, but a god of vengeance or a destroying
angel. Examples are not Avanting : the Greek and Roman
Mythology inculcated the A\*orship of Infernal deities ; the
ancient Persians Avorshipped Ormuzd and Ahriman ; the
negroes have their fetish ; the Indians Avorship a host of
ogres and monsters from the Goddess Bowanee to the
venomous Naga or hooded snake : to these have temples
been erected, and human sacrifices offered ; and yet, Avith
these and other facts before their eyes, and the experi
ence of ages deriding their folly, there are still found
men Avho presume to imagine that mankind can be
governed or satisfied by a system of rationalism of their
OAvn invention ; they are in the darkest ignorance, natu
rally, Avith respect even to the Avorking of their own
hearts ; yet, Avith finite reason, attempt to form a system
of government for immortal souls ; but in fact these
Avould-be lawgivers are dishonest ; they pilfer their know
ledge from Revelation, and then ungratefully refuse to
acknowledge their obligation ; they know nothing what
ever of God but from Revelation ; the truths of Avhich
they have imbibed from their childhood, Avhich have
grown Avith their groAvth, and strengthened Avith their
strength ; and had they been Avithout this, and left to
the unassisted light derived from the Avorks of Nature,
they Avould themselves most certainly have Avorshipped
a PoAver of Evil, Avhether called by the name of Satan,
the Devil or Ahriman.
April ro. — We proceeded along the foot of the moun
tains, where several A'illages Avere in sight off the road ;
the country undulating, Avith flocks of gazelles : having

ASSYRIA.

V9

had no grain for two days, our horses were fast failing;
mine Avas nearly knocked up, when Ave fortunately came
to a Avater-mill, Avhere the people were grinding barley,
for the supply of the villages: they objected to supply
us, but Ave were forced to compel them to sell us enough
for our exhausted cattle. This mill was on a fine brook
in a pretty valley, and here I Avas obliged to rest till my
horse Avas rested, for he Avas almost too far gone to eat.
Travelling in these countries after rain is most trying for
horses, on account of the numerous water-courses and
swamps they have to struggle through, and Avinter rivers
Avhich they must swim across ; the cold Avater coming in
contact Avith their heated backs raises ulcers, Avhich disable
them entirely.
The villages are numerous in this district, and chiefly
inhabited by Christians. Leaving the mountains trending
off to the left, Ave passed the large village of Tel Escof,
and stopped on the night at Botnai, where we Avere well
lodged and supplied, and I managed to get my poor horse
into a Avalk the next day, and there Avere only four or
fhre hours more to Mosul. We passed a large village, called
Telkif, and through the peculiar mounds supposed to
cover the ruins of Nineveh : coming to a river Avhich
floAvs through these mounds into the Tigris, Ave Avere
again obliged to swim, or rather drag, our unfortunate
horses across, and in time reached the ferry opposite
Mosul : although the boats Avere numerous, the passage
Avas much crowded, principally by soldiers, but there Avere
not Avanting peasants, Arabs, women, and horses, all
struggling to gain a footing in the boats. The Tigris
in fine Aveather is crossed opposite the toAvn by a bridge
of boats ; but the river being much SAVollen by the rains
and freshets from the mountains, the use of the bridge is
prevented, and the boats are snugly stowed under the
other bank. We Avere not kept long in suspense, as the
boatmen, seeing Ave Avere Franks, took us and our
bags into a large boat, and our horses, more dead than
alive, Avere half pushed and half lifted into the same; and

280 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
Ave Avere shortly landed on a sort of quay on the town
side, amidst a crowd of Avondering natives, Turks, Arabs,
and Armenians ; one of the latter offered to conduct us
to the house of the Consul Ingles : not at all sorry to
find that there was such a functionary here, avc mounted
our jaded horses, and followed our conductor through
a A'ariety of narrow crowded bazaars and dirty lanes to
the house of Mr. Rassam, an Armenian, Avho had been
interpreter to the Euphrates expedition, and had since
been nominated our Consular-Agent at Mosul : here Ave
Avere also agreeably surprised at meeting Avith Mr. Ains-
worth, the geologist of that expedition, Avho is now
travelling for the Royal Geographical Society, and has
made Mosul his head-quarters ; intending, as soon as the
season permits, penetrating into the recesses of Koordistan.
By these gentlemen Ave AA-ere Avelcomed Avith the greatest
kindness, and Ave Avere delighted at finding ourselves in
such good quarters, Avhen Ave had expected to pass the
time Ave stayed here in a Turkish khan.
Mosul is an ill-constructed mud-built toAvn, rising above
the banks of the Tigris, and backed by Ioav hills ; in the
centre is a tall broAvn ugly minaret, very much out of
the perpendicular ; the interior of some of the houses
is faced Avith a translucent stone, called Mosul marble,
a sulphate of lime, AA'hich being soft is easily cut, but
decomposes rapidly Avhen exposed to the Aveather. Part of
the old Saracen Avails still remain : they are very massive,
Avith square bastions of brick faced Avith stucco ; some
of the interior chambers and Avails still retain the large
ornamental Arabic inscriptions cut in relief; the ground
betAveen the Avails and toAvn is occupied by stagnant
pools, ruins and dead bodies of camels and cattle, Avhich
is enough to breed a pestilence ; the bazaars are mean
and dirty. South of the toAvn, on the banks of the river,
is a large Turkish barrack ; the rest of the environs are
occupied by cemeteries ; near it to the north, on the banks
of the Tigris, are some sulphur springs about seven in
number : the Avater of these is extremely clear, but the

ASSYRIA. 28 1
odour from them is almost insufferable ; there Avas a red
vitriolic deposit on their banks, so acid that it corroded
the mouth and teeth ; the temperature of the Avater Avas
82° Fahr. From the top of the houses the view of the
river and the Koorcl Mountains to the north is very fine ;
and in front spread the numerous mounds forming the
tomb of the Glories of Nineveh. In the evening the air
above the tOAvn is alive Avith bats, which fly high, and afford
sport to numerous kestrels, that pick them off, and cat
them while hovering in the air : it Avas a curious scene.
The next morning Ave crossed the river, for the purpose of
examining the mounds : they cover an extent of several
miles on the left bank of the rh-er; generally presenting
the form of long smooth ridges, with intervals between ;
or extensive isolated mounds ; the whole is covered Avith
fine pasture, and on the declivities are noAV picqueted the
horses of the irregular Turkish cavalry, Avhich are brought
over here for the sake of the grazing. The principal
mound, called Kianjuk, is supposed to be the ruin of
a palace or temple, and occupies a very large space ; it
Avas lately the scene of a tragedy arising from the pre
carious authority of the Turks over the Koords, and
proves that this is unrecognized in a great degree by
the latter ; 'on one corner of this mound are the ruins of
a village, Avhich a feAV months ago was flourishing ; the
Turks of Mosul having made an attack on RaAvanduz
Bey, the Koordish chief, he was not long in retaliating;
and avenged himself by sending a party of moun
taineers in the night to attack this village, Avhich they
utterly destroyed, and indiscriminately massacred every
man, Avoman and child in it ; Mr. Ainsworth mentioned
having visited the spot the day after the occurrence,
and finding the bodies of the villagers strewed about
among the ruins of their homes. Tavo rivers Aoav through
these mounds ; one close to the foot of the large mound ;
and the other further south by the large village of Nebbi
Yonas (prophet Jonas), Avhose sanctuary is here. Trans-
• lators have found much difficulty in deciding on the names

282 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
of the different birds mentioned in the prophecies of the
desolation of cities : these rivers, however, are frequented
by pelicans, and cormorants are common : it is not
yet decided that this Is the site of the capital of Assyria,
although the probability is in favour of it; as it Avas
destroyed 602 B.C., and 150 years after the prophecies
of Nahum, AA'hich Avere fulfilled by its destruction ; no
remains of it Avould be likely to exist above ground except
in the shape of mounds.
We had received intelligence of some very interesting
ruins in the Desert, sixty or seventy- miles south of
Mosul, Avhich Ave Avere very anxious to see ; and Mr.
AinsAvorth having long Avished to visit the locality, Ave
determined to gratify our curiosity by making a tour of
discoArery into the Avilderness : the Arabs call the place
Al Hadr, meaning the abode or dAvelling-place, in
contradistinction to the tents of the surrounding and
Avandering tribes : they have the same name in Arabia,
in the province of Hadrelmout, the abode of death;
and as the inhabitants of the place Avere Arabians,
I have no doubt that the modern was the original
name, although corrupted by the Romans to Hatra and
Atra, by Avhich name it is noticed by their historians.
Dr. Ross, the Medical Officer attached to the Residency
in the Persain Gulf, had made several attempts to ex
plore these ruins, and although he succeeded in reaching
them, he Avas prevented making any detailed observation
in consequence of the hostility of the Arabs, Avho attacked
and plundered his party ; and he himself only escaped by
being fortunately recognized by one of the Arabs Avho
had seen him at Bagdad ; notAvithstanding this, and the
assurance of the natives that it Avas impossible, and that
Ave should never escape to return, Ave Aveighed all the ob
jections at their real value, and resolved on persevering
in our design ; and it will generally be found that when
there is resolution, nothing is impossible.
Mr. AinsAvorth's horses AA'ere all out grazing on the
other side of the Tigris ; and the river having risen daily

ASSYRIA.

283

since our arrival, the communication by boats was nearly
cut off; so that avc had to Avait several days before they
could be brought over by boats sent on purpose ; and
then they required some few days more to be put in
Avorking order : our rwn horses Avcrc so completely
knocked up that Ave AAere forced to sell them both for
about £3 ; but as Ave were to carry no baggage, Mr.
AinsAvorth's horses Avere enough for the party. Mr.
Rassam AA-as deputed to the Pacha, to knoAv on Avhat
terms the GoA'ernment stood Avith the Arab chiefs of the
Shammar ; and Avhether a Government soldier Avould be
of any service for appearance sake ; but we decided on
no account to take an escort. The Pacha of course could
not insure our safety, being on the usual slippery footing
with the Arabs, but sent us a Bashi-bozeuk, who hoAvever
proved totally useless. From the Arabs Avho frequented
Mosul Ave learnt that although Ave might not fall in
Avith any of their people on the road, AA'e Avere sure to
find a camp at Al Hadr, Avhich was one of their chief
rendezvous ; at the same time Ave Avere careful not to let
them knoAv our intentions, or take any of them as guides.
We Avere unable to leave Mosul until the morning of
Saturday, the 1 8th April. Our party consisted of our
selves and Messrs. AinsAvorth and Rassam, Avith only one
servant, an Egyptian Bedouin, yclept Hadj Ali, to look
after our horses ; this man Ave kneAV we could trust, as he
had been in the service of Majoun Bey, and had ac
companied Mr. AinsAA'orth from Orfa, and having fought
against these Arabs, he kneAV, that had he been detected,
he Avould ha\-e experienced short shrift at their hands.
We mustered four guns, besides other arms, and Avith
plenty of ammunition, felt confident of being able to
maintain our OAvn by force, if necessary, against any
ordinary-sized tribe. We took no beds but Avhat we
could strap behind our OAvn saddles, consisting cf a
quilt or a cloak : and no provisions but a bag of
biscuits, Avhich Avas carried on Ali's horse; trusting to
our guns for any addition to our frugal meals. Our plan

284 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
Avas to folloAv the course of the Tigris from Mosul to
a place called Kala Shergat, by Avhich means aa-c should
be sure of Avater thus far ; and then strike across to the
AA-estAvard till AA'e found the Wed Thatar, a small stream
on which the ruins Avere situated : the banks of the ri\-er
at this season are luxuriant Avith high grass and barley.
Wc rode over sloping hills formed of gypsum, but
covered Avith floAvers, scarlet ranunculus, pink stocks, and
Avhite Star of Bethlehem ; the river Avas A'aried Avith
broad green islands, and the Aveather most beautiful.
Again descending into cultiA'ated plains, sprinkled Avith
mud A-illages, Ave reached Hammam Ali in four hours ; as
Ave should find no village south of this, Ave stayed here for
the night ; Ave found a feAV Chaldee Christians, but most
of the houses in the small A'illage had their doors built
up Avith stones and mud previous to their OAvners leaving,
Avhich they do at this season, to pasture their flocks on
the grass-clad plains ; Ave broke in several of these doors,
but Avere repulsed by the myriads of fleas that issued
from them, and at last took refuge in an open stable in
preference. In this climate, Avhen a hut or room is shut
up and uninhabited for a short time, the fleas multiply to
such an extent as literally to blacken the Avails ; and the
clothes of any one Avho ventures in are immediately
covered with these sharp-set pests. This place takes its
name Hammam Ali, the baths of Ali, from a sulphur
spring, Avhich has been enclosed by a circular gallery for
the benefit of invalids ; a quantity of bitumen is collected
from it ; the temperature of the pool AA'as 460 Centig. : a
tall artificial mound, called Tel-e-Seft, covered Avith long
grass, rises close by, from the top of this Mosul is visible.
Easter Sunday. — Continued our march across hills, Avhich
run doAvn to the Tigris, opposite the mouth of the Great
Zab river : on the other side of the Tigris rises a remark
able pyramidal mound, surrounded by many loAver ones,
called Nimrud, and marking the site of some forgotten
city. The soil is very shalloAv on these hills, the gypsum
rock continually protruding above the surface ; the verdant

ASSYRIA. 285
slopes and plains are most beautiful, refulgent Avith broad
patches of brilliant scarlet and yclloAv floAvcrs, and en
livened by innumerable birds ; turtle-doves and quail
arriving in flights, the latter flying from under your
horse's feet, or looking up from their nestling-places in
the long grass as you pass over them ; the large Chekoar
partridge is common, besides flocks of sand-grouse and
plover; AA-hite harrier hawks skimmed the plains in search
of prey, Avhile the hoopoes, green bee-eaters, and blue
rollers flitted across the radiant-coloured fields ; diverging
a little to the right, Ave came to a deep ravine, or channel,
called Wad el K'seb, the river of reeds, from the number
of reeds that groAv in its bed ; these are the resort of
myriads of reed sparrows, Avhich almost bear doAvn the
reeds by their numbers, and stun one Avith their shrill
clamour : they very much resemble the house sparroAv,
but are more elegantly shaped, and the breast dropped
with reddish-broAvn. Following the course of this stream,
or rather stagnant ditch, Ave started a large Avild hog,
AA'ith se\-eral young pigs : Mr. AinsAVorth bagged one of
these Avith shot, and Ave then loaded Avith ball and tried
to eet a shot at the old ones : the banks Avere intersected
AA'ith holes and ra\-ines, overgroAvn AA'ith long rank grass,
affording them good cover ; alarmed by the shots, the pigs
Avere seen making off in all directions for the Tigris : Ave
gave chase to a party of five, but our horses being fatigued,
Ave could only muster a canter : I Avas gaining fast,
hoAvever, on tAvo of them, which stopped every noAV and
then, as if they intended to shoAV fight, the reason of
which I soon discovered by seeing they Avere folloAved
by four little pigs, about three months old ; I pushed
fonvard and cut off the retreat of these, as the old pigs,
abandoning their young, had disappeared over a rising
ground, being well ahead of the litter : I dismounted in
the track made by the old ones in the long grass, and
presently I heard all the young ones galloping up, squeaking
and grunting in full cry, till they found me in their path,
Avhen they stopped, and began sniffing and examining

286 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
my feet ; taking me, I suppose, for one of the fraternity ;
I soon undeceived them, and profited by the opportunity
to pounce on tAvo of them, Avhich I carried off, singing
a duet, one under each arm ; AA'hile the others, finding their
mistake, made their escape. Mr. AinsAVorth had knocked
over another, so Ave had a good supply of provisions for
one or two days : these young pigs are very handsomely
marked, being striped Avith longitudinal bars of black and
AA-hite ; the old ones are of a dirty black, and of immense
size. Soon after crossing the Wad el K'seb, Ave passed a
pellucid stream strongly impregnated Avith sulphur, beyond
AA'hich Ave came to a flat full of bitumen pits ; the ground
was entirely encrusted with the mineral, and in many
places it was oozing sloAvly from the earth and flowing
toAA'ards the river, Avhere it is often seen floating doAvn on
the Avater ; some of the hardened black masses Avould bear
our horses' weight riding over them ; a little further Ave
passed a high mound called Tel Gayra. From the rising
ground we could see herds of tAventy or thirty wild hogs
feeding in the SAvamps on the river-side ; and a Avood of
tamarisk and sifsaf appeared further on ; Ave made for
this, for the purpose of passing the night in its shelter ;
but, after crossing a Ioav tract of coarse rank vegetation,
rising above the horses' chests, rousing the wild boar on
all sides, on reaching the AA-ood, Ave found that it had been
OA'erfloAved by the river and Avas noAV unapproachable.
Disappointed here, Ave folloAved the bank of the river to
find a bivouac AA'here Ave might Avater our horses, the
bank on this side, although Ioav, being soft and steep and
the waters deep. We had marched ten hours, and stopped
for the night at the foot of a high mound ; opposite to
the sanctuary of Hadj Ali, on the other side of the river;
Ave Avere unsuccessful in Avatering the horses, having
nothing but a small brass drinking cup ; they Avere
obliged to pass the night AA-ithout Avater, in sight of a
broad river ; indeed it Avas Avith some danger and difficulty
that Ave could procure any for ourselves, which Ave did
by breaking doAvn a part of the bank on Avhich to obtain

ASSYRIA. 2S7
a footing, and holding each other's hands ; our dinner con
sisted of sucking pig, partridges and hare, all broiled on the
embers and Ave slept a la belle etoile in the long grass, AA'hich
also afforded fine forage for our horses. We passed the night
undisturbed ; but in the morning our cloaks and coverings
AA-ere Avet Avith the heaAy dew ; Ave mounted at six, folloAv-
ing the margin of the river over low hills, or grassy plains,
Avith patches of Avood near the Avaterside ; in six hours avc
reached Kala Shergat, from AA'hence Ave intended shaping
our course for Al Hadr. This is a remarkable Babylonian
ruin, composed of a mass of artificial mounds, on the bank
of the river; the circumference of the ruins is 4685 yards,
about 2^3 miles; and the highest part, Avhich has probably
been a citadel, rises about 140 feet above the plain. On
the north side is a small Avinding stream, overgroAvn with
wood, AA'hich appears to have Avashed aAvay the bases of
the mounds during floods, and they noAV hang over it
in abrupt cliffs about 60 feet high, entirely built of sun
baked bricks, of which the Avhole of these mounds seem
to be composed : the upper uneven plateau is covered
with broken bricks of all descriptions, red, black, and
yelloAv, but all burned and marked Avith the straAV and
sticks used for the purpose ; there is also a great quantity
of pottery, some Avith an angular pattern of black and
red on the border ; round the south face of the mounds
can be traced the base of the massive Avail, and another
is very apparent round the upper citadel to the north ;
these Avails are composed of large blocks of gypsum.
On further examination, the steep parts of the mounds
Avould seem to have been faced Avith stone; for at the
north-east angle, a portion of this facing still remains,
composed of square bevelled stones, closely fitted, AA'ith
the upper toav crenellated; this Avould go to prove that
this place Avas held by the Saracens, bevelled stones
being peculiar to their style of architecture, as may be
seen in the castle at Bir, in the ruins at Beyrout, and
other places in Asia Minor : although it is possible that
the Arabs did not invent this ornamental style them-

288 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
selves, but adopted it from the Babylonians. Under the
steep banks overhanging the Tigris, Ave found several
large pillars built of brick, AA'hich had been laid bare by
the Avater, the earth having been gradually Avashed and
crumbled aAvay by the river ; there Avere five of these
in a straight line, some reaching to the top of the
bank, here about 12 feet high; they measured 4 feet
10 inches in diameter, and Avere holloAv doAvn the centre,
and very neatly made ; the large flat bricks of AA'hich
they Avere formed being broader at their exterior circum
ference ; Ave Avere much puzzled to imagine Avhat purpose
they could formerly have served, whether they AA'ere
Avells, or places of sepulture ; whether they Avere part of a
colonnade, AA'hich supported a temple or other large build
ing ; or AA'hether they Avere connected Avith hydraulic Avorks
for raising Avater from the river : I leave this question to
be decided by those better acquainted Avith the subject ;
this place is a little to the north of the Hamrin hills. We
passed the night among these mounds ; but although Ave
were shooting all the afternoon, and made a fire at night,
there seemed to be no human being in these desolate
Avilds, and we passed the night in security. These ruins
are frequented by a small red partridge about half the
size of the common one;1 I have not seen this bird
noticed in ornithological Avorks ; it is different from the
Indian, French, or Barbary partridge.
Our Bashi-bozeuk, Avho had been sent Avith us by the
Tacha, began to grumble at the hard fare and Arab life
Ave led ; he Avas also alarmed at the thought of falling in
Avith the Arabs ; in addition to Avhich, his horse Avas rather
lame ; Ave therefore, as he Avished it, gave him leave to
return, furnishing him Avith Avhat provisions AA'e had ; Ave
told him that he Avas much safer Avith us, but the next
morning he left us by the same road that Ave had come :
and I may as Avell mention here that on our return to
Mosul, he had not made his appearance ; and on our
arrival at Bagdad, Ave received intelligence that he Avas
1 I afterwards found this variety in Afghanistan.

ASSYRIA. 289
not aftenvards heard of ; but Avhether he deserted, or
fell into the river, or Avas taken by the Arabs, Ave never
kneAV. Our Bedouin Ali AA'as a useful handy felloAv, and
seemed quite at home in the Avilds ; although a Moslem,
he had no scruples about skinning and grilling a young
pig, though he would not eat of it, at least before us.
According to Dr. Ross's observations, Al Hadr lies W. by
N. of this place ; and the next morning Ave struck inland
in search of the ruins AA'hich avc also kneAV Avere situated
on the Thatar river or brook. The country Avas rather
undulating, intersected by Avinding ravines or Avadis, Avith
abundance of pasture ; we proceeded at a trotting pace,
ascending every elevation that Avould afford us a vieAv of
the surrounding country ; the Hamrin hills lying close
on our left, but rising Avith an almost imperceptible slope ;
notwithstanding the danger to be apprehended, Ave almost
began to Avish Ave might fall in with Arabs, Avho might
direct us to the object of our search ; but as far as
the eye could reach not a tent was to be seen on the
bosom of the Avavy solitude ; several times Ave thought
AAre perceived the appearance of distant Avails ; but on
approaching, it only turned out to be some break in
the ground, on the edge of a ravine; AA'hen suddenly,
after riding four hours, AA'e Avere agreeably surprised by
striking a stream, Avhich AA'e kneAV could be no other
than the Thatar, Avhich Ave had supposed to have been
at a much greater distance ; the Avater Avas brackish, but
drinkable, and the stream, about 20 feet broad, but deep:
the channel being cut in the alluvial soil. Here Ave found
ourselves at a loss, and held a consultation to decide on
Avhat course to folloAv : Ave discovered that, instead of
travelling W. by N., our course had been W. by S., by
which means Ave had struck on the Thatar so much sooner
than Ave expected, and nearer to its junction with the
Tigris ; Ave therefore decided on folloAving up the stream,
which, as Ave anticipated, soon took a N.W. direction :
finding a clear channel, with a rocky bottom, we crossed
our horses and bathed, and then continued our route;
VOL. I. 1^

290 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
this stream runs through the middle of a broad shalloAv
valley, from 100 to 300 yards across, in some parts
bordered by Ioav rocky cliffs, in others by SAA'elling hills,
Avithout trees of any sort. In vain aa'c ascended the
eminences to obtain a more extensive vieAv ; not a sign
of ruins or tents could be discovered, and Ave began to
despair of succeeding in our search : after tracing the
stream for three hours, Ave brought up for the night at
a spot Avhere there Avas good forage ; and a feAv tamarisk
bushes on the stream afforded us fuel : we had been
so long in the Avilderness that Ave had lost all appre
hension of the Arabs, and lit our fire Avithout alarm ;
in fact, Ave wished to fall in Avith some of them, to relieve
us from our suspense. Not only Avere the clouds of de
spondency beginning to loAver over us, but the cloudy
Aveather gave every indication of rain : we resolved to
prosecute our search in the morning for three or four
hours, after Avhich it would be almost hopeless : it Avas
quite impossible Ave could have passed the ruins, as by
all accounts they Avere visible' for miles. We had dis
covered that the Avhole of these plains are overgroAvn
Avith Avild leeks, and I suppose oAving to our enjoying
everything so much under our privations, Ave thought
them very fine-flavoured, and a large bundle Avas added
to our evening's fare.
We tethered our horses close to us, and all Avent to
sleep, not considering it necessary to keep watch, as a
hare's footfall Avould have been sufficient to bring us to
our feet. The rain which Ave had expected set in before
morning, in a steady drizzle ; and Avhen Ave aAvoke,
we found our cloaks soaked through, and our clothes
more damp than Avas at all agreeable ; fortunately, our
guns, Avhich Ave had put under us, and our saddles, AA'hich
served us for pilloAvs, Avere dry, and, nothing disheartened,
we mounted and reneAved our march. We rode on for
tAvo hours in the rain, Avhich did not tend to raise our
spirits, and our hopes Avere ebbing very fast, Avhen, after
passing a long slope, we Avere surprised and overjoyed

ASSYRIA. 2Qt
by the sight of the massive ruins of Avhich Ave Avere In
search, rising boldly on the surface of the solitary Avaste;
looming dark and solemn through the mist, like the
ghost of a mighty city contemplating the Avrcck of its
former grandeur. Our delight at our success did not pre
vent us from seeing that the ground near the ruins was
occupied by an Arab camp; and Ave accordingly prepared
ourselves for action, setting off at a canter to reach the
tents before they could arm or prevent our approach ; Ave
could see the shepherds running in as AA-e approached,
to give notice of an enemy to the camp: Ave rode straight
to the Sheik's tent, distinguished by tAvo long spears
standing out of the roof on either side : Ave had evidently
taken them by surprise, for half a dozen Arabs, among
Avhom Avas the Sheik himself, came out, and holding our
bridles Avhile Ave dismounted, Avelcomed us to their tents
in the most friendly manner : this was rather a different
reception from what Ave had expected, and much more
satisfactory. A circle being formed round the fire, Ave
Avere assailed by questions of hoAV Ave came, AA'here from,
etc., but their principal astonishment Avas that Ave had
come so far Avithout being killed or plundered ; they said,
of course, that there Avas no fear to be entertained Avith re
spect to their people, but there Avere other tribes nearer the
river who were not so peaceable : we shoAved them our
double-barrels, hinting that stripping four armed men Avas
neither an easy nor a safe proceeding : at the same time
Ave shoAA'ed every confidence in them, particularly noAV
that Ave Avere their guests. But AA'hat Avas our object in
venturing here ? We told them Ave Avere English, Avho
had come from Mosul to see their Chief Sufuke, Avho AA'as
said to be at this place. (We kneAV very well that he
had gone to the north Avith his people to harass the
frontier of Mohammed Ali, and do a little business in
the plundering line.) They told us that they were to
march to the north to join their chief, and Ave might
accompany them ; but this of course did not suit our
purpose, as our end was gained ; so we said that, as we

292 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
had been unfortunate in not meeting the Sheik, Ave Avould
just look at the surrounding ruins, and return the next day
to Mosul ; one of the Arabs having visited Mosul, for the
purpose of trade, recognized Mr. Rassam, and this added
to the cordiality of our reception. The camp belonged to
the small tribe of Lamood, a branch of the Shammar, Avho
had moved up in force from the south of Bagdad, and
Avhom AA'e had so much trouble in avoiding, Avhen traversing
Mesopotamia among the Koords ; the Shammar are
cowardly and deceitful, seldom venturing on open fight,
but trusting to the rapidity of their movements, and to
taking their enemies by surprise. The present party
Avere of very dark complexion, but some of them ex
tremely handsome, and even effeminate, with straight or
aquiline features, and their hair hanging in plaits doAvn
the sides of their faces ; they live almost entirely on
barley bread, butter, and sour milk : except when they
have guests, AA'hen a sheep or goat is killed, as was done for
us on the present occasion ; the only fuel they use is the
dry dung of their flocks ; they possessed a feAv fine mares,
Avhich were clogged and turned out to graze ; some of
the young foals were perfect pictures. NotAvithstanding
that Ave had thus established ourselves on a good footing
Avith these Arabs, and, as it AA'ere, taken their hospitality
by storm, I felt perfectly convinced that not half of them
gave the least credit to our story, particularly Avhen Ave
proposed visiting the ruins ; some of the more ignorant
believing that Ave had come for the purpose of exhuming
treasure, AA'hich the Arabs ahvays imagine is to be found
in these ancient sites ; one of the most annoying of these
Avas a villain Avith a squint, Avho Avith others aftenvards
dodged us about, keeping up a running commentary on
our proceedings to his companions ; if Ave measured a
room by pacing it, it was proof positive that at a certain
distance betAveen tAvo points the treasure Avas concealed ;
and if Ave examined any sculpture more minutely, they
Avatched eagerly for the descent of a golden shoAver. The
Sheik and some of his people Avere more rational, and

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ASSYRIA.

293

begged Ave Avould not lose our tempers, but bear Avith
their annoyance, as he had little control OA'er them; hoAv-
ever, he managed to check any open hostility, although
the sinister-looking felloAA- and his party Avere outrageous
at his alloAving us to visit the ruins ; avc fortunately
avoided all collision, and succeeded to the utmost in the
object of our expedition, under the protection afforded
by the moral influence of the British name ; the day Avas
very unfavourable for us, raining at intervals; but after a
slight repast, Ave set off AA'ith no lack of folloAvers to explore
the ruins.
The Avails of the toAvn, a great part of Avhich are erect,
inclose a circular area of 5460 yards or 3^- miles ; they are
built of solid stone masonry, defended at irregular intervals
by 33 square bastions; outside the walls there appears to
have been a moat, Avith a rampart beyond; on the north
side there are the remains of a gateAvay in this outer
rampart In the centre of the area is a large square enclosure of
about 300 yards on each face ; within this are the prin
cipal ruins, consisting of the palace and various gateAvays,

arches and ruined offices : the remains of a building of
great magnificence form the principal pile, Avhich occupies

294

FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.

the east side of the square, exhibiting a front of seven
beautifully-sculptured arches, the entrances to correspond
ing halls, Avith intermediate pillars built of circular flat

300 Yards sq.

CENTRAL RUIN.

stones (see VieAv of Ruins and Plan). These arches are
ornamented Avith half-length male and female figures,
standing out in high relief, and most elaborately finished ;
the female figures in Ioav dresses Avith long AA'aists, and
the hair dressed in various styles ; some of the male
figures wore curled Avigs : the dresses AA'ere minutely
Avorked, and in a fine state of preservation. At the back
of the principal hall Is a door leading into an arched
corridor, 10 feet high : this corridor, or passage, runs
entirely round a square isolated room, Avith a beautiful
sculptured doonvay. On an entablature round this gal
lery is a roAv of Avinged quadrupeds, Avith lions', eagles',
and griffins' heads, placed face to face, holding heads, or
masks, under their raised paAVS : the doonvays, as well as
the cornices and arcrnvays, are elaborately ornamented

ASSYRIA. 295
Avith acanthus foliage : the door of this inner hall Avas
so blocked up by slabs and masses of ruin, that Ave found
it impossible to effect an entrance, and A\-e could procure
no ropes to enable us to enter by climbing the Avails.
On either side of the large hall (a) are three tall pilas
ters, ornamented Avith masks, three on each : the faces
Avere male and female, Avith the hair dressed in various
styles, and each representing a different character. In
the north hall (b), Avhich is much dilapidated, there is a
roAv of bulls on the left-hand side, in a kneeling posture,
built into the Avail, 6 feet from the ground, Avith their
heads and chests protruding. The walls of these build
ings are extremely solid, composed of rough stone bound
Avith strong lime cement, and entirely cased Avith heAvn
freestone, most exactly fitted : there are stone stairs
through the thickness of the Avails, Avhich conduct to the
top of the building ; on the roof are the remains of several
vaulted rooms.
We were not successful in discovering any inscription
of much interest : on a stone in the centre of one of
these small rooms Ave found the folloAving five letters,
mJiJ37K, Avhich Mr. Rassam assumed to be Chaldee ;
but I doubt whether they have any particular meaning,
for it is a peculiarity of these ruins that, in the centre of
every stone, both of the palace and other buildings, and
even of the Avails and bastions of the toAvn, there is one
of these letters deeply engraved ; it has been suggested
that these Avere merely the builders' marks to guide them
in laying the stones ; but, for this purpose, marks Avould
have been adopted easily effaceable, or on a part of the
stone which Avould be concealed in the building ; besides
Avhich, marks ought to correspond on the edges of the
stones, and be without limit in number; but here, the
letters are exactly in the centre of each stone, and the
same letters are constantly recurring ; secondly, they are
deeply and neatly cut, and must have entailed a great deal
of extra labour ; from which I am led to think that they
were intended to be either ornamental ; or that some

296

FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.

religious meaning Avas attached to them, and a character
of sanctity imparted to the buildings AA'hich Avere thus
protected. From the character of the sculptures and the
frequent occurrence of the solar orb, I have no doubt
that this building, combining palace and temple, AA-as
dedicated to Mithraic Avorship.

CROUND PLAN OF HOUSE.

W///////MA&

1

|>

P

a. Vaulted, rcomj
V CoTzLmns of circular stones
A c. Tassage
b A Stairs to roof

The building, of Avhich this is a plan, standing among
others on the east side of the toAvn is very neat, and Avas
probably a dAA'elling-house, for they are of the same date as
the rest of the ruins. Among the ruins are found many of
the narroAV-mouthed circular cisterns, or grain stores, Avith
their mouths on a level Avith the surface of the ground,
Avhich are common all over Asia Minor and Central Asia.
The Thatar, a small deep stream, Aoaa's by the east of
the toAvn, opposite to Avhich are the remains of a bridge;
the Arabs assured us that this stream rose from a source
in the Sinjar hills, and ridiculed the idea of its being an
off-set of the Kaboor, as laid doAvn in our maps. There
is a spring Avithin the Avails S.W. of the palace, AA'hich is
less brackish than the riA-er. On the left-hand Avail of
the principal hall (a) is an Arabic inscription, stating that
this building had been ordered to be repaired by Massoud
Ibn MoAvdud Ibn Atabeki, the year of the Hegira 586,
ansAvering to A.D. 1190. On reference to D'Herbelot, this
prince is mentioned as Ezzedin Massoud Ibn Cotbedin

ASSYRIA. 297
MoAvdud Atabeki, fourth prince of the first dynasty of
the Atabegs of Irak, Avho reigned from A.H. 578 to 589
over Mesopotamia, Syria, and Egypt ; the rule of this
prince A\as very nominal, for Salah-ed-din (the general of
his predecessor and cousin-gcrman, the third prince) had
already wrested Egypt and Syria from his SAvay : Salah-
ed-din and Ezzedin Massoud died in the same year. These
ruins, from their great antiquity, the intrinsic beauty of the
architecture, and the high preservation of their peculiar
sculptures, Avhich appear to be Grecian, grafted on and
superseding the Persian, form one of the most interesting
objects I haA-e yet visited ; the interest of the place is
much increased by its isolated and impressive solitude,
standing in the midst of the Avilderness, Avith nothing
visible on all sides, but a plain bounded by the horizon.
Al Hadr, or Hatra, AA'as formerly a place of great
strength; it baffled the attacks of Trajan, and Avas after-
Avards besieged A.D. 195 by Severus, for taking part Avith
Pescennius Niger ; the Emperor Avas repulsed Avith great
loss, and the destruction of his engines, on this occasion ;
but the next season resumed the siege, and the Romans
having effected a breach, Severus Avould not alloAV them
to take the place by storm ; and the citizens having
repaired their Avails during the night, the soldiers Avere
so exasperated that they refused to reneAv the attack.
Tavo hundred years aftenA-ards, Avhen Jovian's army en
camped here on their disgraceful retreat, the}' found the
city deserted and ruined.
Although AA-e Avere at first extremely annoyed by the
officious curiosity of the Arabs, they gradually left us as
the noA'elty Avore off, not having patience to sit for hours
to Avatch us sketching and measuring, yet some of them
ahvays kept us in sight. The evening being fine, AA-e shot
a number of red-legged partridges and blue pigeons, to
which the ruins give shelter, and after joining in a pillaf,
made of a firstling of their flocks, Ave slept in perfect
security in the Sheik's tent: these people appear to have
feAV or no firearms, but carry spears 14 feet long, the

298 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
bamboos for AA'hich are brought to the Persian Gulf from
India : they are so suspicious themselves, that they AA'ere
quite surprised at the confidence Avith AA'hich Ave all Avent
to sleep, though, at the same time, they Avere flattered
by our trust in their good faith.
The Sheik, the next morning, offered to conduct us
straight to Mosul, for Avhich service he stipulated for a
remuneration, which Avas not exorbitant ; and my im
pression AA-as that had it been less, or even had Ave not
paid him at all, he considered it his duty to see us safe
home, as Ave Avere his guests : although the distance Avas
sixty miles in a direct line N. by E., we determined to
perform it in one day ; Ave started at seAren o'clock, the
Sheik leading on a fast ambling mare, and carrying a long
spear. We cast back many a look of satisfaction as
Avell as regret on the massive ruins, as they gradually
sunk beneath the level of the waste ; we scrambled
through the Thatar, near the ruined piers of the bridge,
and marched a vol d'oiseau across plains covered with
grass, once or tAvice diverging from our track to avoid
Avhat appeared to be men : a human being is the greatest
object of terror on the desert, as he is ahvays prejudged
to be hostile ; fortunately the strangers AA-ere equally
alarmed at our appearance, Avhich, in the present case,
Avas rather formidable, and quickly disappeared.
There is ahvays a sufficient variety in the sloping of
the ground, the colour or appearance of the soil, the
direction of the little gullies or Avater runs, to enable
an Arab, or any man Avith a little practice, to find his
Avay Avith tolerable certainty across these plains ; besides
this, you noAV and then come to more prominent land
marks, either protruding rocks or slight peaks, or mounds,
rising on the horizon line, AA'hich can be distinguished at
a great distance.
HalfAvay betAveen Al Hadr and Wed el Kseb is another
Avatercourse, noAV dry, called Wed Hamra, from the colour
of its banks, Avhich are red and rocky. At midday we
halted to graze our horses, one of them being knocked

ASSYRIA. • 299
up ; and soon aftcrAvards, as Ave ncared the Tigris,
and just after crossing the Wed el Kseb, Ave came to
a fine bottom covered AA'ith tents and flocks belonging
to the Hedidi tribes, Avho live in the villages and
tOAvns during the dry season, but come out after the
rains to graze their flocks ; at one of these camps Ave
left the fagged horse AA'ith the servant, in care of the
Arabs to come on the next day, and pushed on for
the toAvn : here also the Sheik el Hendy, who had
gained our goodAvill by his kindness and frank dis
position, considering Ave Avere noAV safe, begged we Avould
alloAV him to return, to which we acceded, requesting
that he Avould pay us a visit at Mosul ; although he
did not come, some of our desert friends found their
Avay in a feAV days to Mr. Rassam's house at Mosul,
where they were Avell crammed with pillau, and returned
with presents to their tents, much pleased Avith their visit.
After parting Avith the Sheik, Ave crossed a Ioav range
of rocky hills and struck into the beaten path ; villages
appearing as you approach the vicinity of the toAvn ; Ave
kept this road till after sunset, when we Avere enveloped
in black clouds, Avhich melted into drizzling rain, and the
night set in so dark that Ave lost the track: endeavouring to
keep a straight course, Avith only now and then the glimpse
of a star through a chasm in the black clouds to steer
by, Ave soon found ourselves AA-alking up the side of a
mountain, among gullies and masses of rock : while con
sidering hoAV Ave should pass the night, Ave Avere delighted
at hearing the barking of dogs, and, making for the sound,
we again hit on the lost road, Avhich we kept Avith diffi
culty, being quite giddy keeping our eyes fixed on the
track as Ave Avent on; Ave at last lost it altogether, when
within a mile of the toAvn, and found ourselves involved
and beAvildered among cemeteries, gardens, ditches, muddy
cross-roads, and pools of Avater formed by the rains,
and were fortunate in escaping broken necks : our mis
fortunes were not yet at an end, for, on extricating
ourselves, and reaching the Turkish barracks at nine

300 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
o'clock, they told us to go on to the toAvn, and if Ave
Avere not admitted, to return, and they Avould let us
in : to my surprise, Ave Avere refused admittance into the
toAvn, and, on returning to the barracks, the rogues had
changed their minds, and Avould not open their gates ;
Ave then had recourse to the buildings outside the tOAvn
Avails, and Avere fain to make the best of the shelter
afforded by some little arched shops, in Avhich Ave huddled,
tAvo in each, in our Avet clothes ; our poor horses, after
their sixty miles' march, standing half under cover and
half in the rain ; holding the bridles In our hands, we
snatched a feAv hours' sleep in this comfortless position,
till the gates were opened at daylight in the morning.
On reaching the house Ave found a party of French
traA'ellers, Messrs. Tessier, La Bourdonnaye, and Guiche,
Avho had arrh'-ed in our absence ; M. Tessier has been
travelling in Asia Minor for the last seven years, for the
French Academie, and had just returned from Shapoor
in Persia, Avith a portfolio full of accurate draAvings of
the various sculptures at that place : they promise us
much discomfort in Persia, they having been plundered
of £$0 by their OAvn Mehmandar, Avho Avas furnished for
their protection : the French have, hoAvever, a peculiar
talent for getting into scrapes, but every one agrees in
giving the Persians a bad character.
The 26th of April is kept here as Easter Day by the
Christians : there are many Armenians and Culdees scat
tered over this country, but the majority of them acknoAV-
ledge the Pope of Rome, and call themseh-es Catolicos.
Mr. Rassam had obtained, from a Nestorian priest, a very
interesting manuscript Avork, in the Chaldee character, on
the Nestorian faith, Avritten in A.D. 1332 ; from which it
appears that they do not Avorship the host, or pay any
adoration to the Virgin Mary : this manuscript, although
in the Chaldee character, is Avritten in the Arabic language.
On the 28th the rain finally cleared off, and we made
preparations for starting for Bagdad : there is a post-
road to the eastAvard, by Arbela, by Avhich you can reach

ASSYRIA. 3OI
Bagdad in six days ; but the most convenient plan is to
go doAvn the Tigris by raft. When there is much trade
going on, large rafts, called Kellek, arc constructed for
carrying goods ; some of these are supported by as many
as 600 inflated goat-skins ; this is a Aery expensive mode
of conveyance, for, as the rafts cannot return against the
current, they are broken up at the end of the journey and
the materials sold : Avhen these large rafts are being
despatched, a traveller can obtain a passage on board
them ; but, none being ready to go at the present time,
Ave were obliged to have a small one made for us, Avhich
was to consist of sixty skins and cost 400 piastres, £4 :
these skins support a slight framework, furnished at one
side Avith tAvo rude oars fixed in upright forks ; here the
steersman sits to guide and propel the raft.
April 20. — Going doAA'n to the river-side for the pur
pose of embarking, Ave found our baggage on the raft,
and the Avater bubbling up betAveen the skins, Avhich our
additional Aveight brought very Ioav doAvn in the Avater ;
Ave AA'ere to stop at a jungle further doAvn the stream,
and cover the raft Avith brushAvood ; so Ave pushed off
from the shore at I0"40 A.M., and floated doAvn Avith
the current, assisted by the oars ; the AA-eather AA'as fine,
and, the river being very full, Ave expected to reach Bag
dad in four days. At 11 '15 we passed on the left the
mound and village of Yarumja, said to be on the battle
field of Arbela : in five minutes more some hills rose on
the right, croAvned by the castle of Seramoom, the ground
around it being streAved AA'ith square slabs of limestone ;
at noon passed the villages of Bagiari on the right, and
Caracoilli on the left bank : rocky hills form the left
bank of the river, and on the right, Avhich is flat, there
are some sulphur-springs; 115 AA'e passed Hammam Ali,
and in another hour crossed a rapid called AAvoeja,
formed by the ruined foundation of a bridge Avhich once
spanned the stream opposite Nimrud : this is another
evidence of this place having been the site of an im
portant city. This group of small hills Avhich at 2-30 P.M.

302 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
lay due east of us is very remarkable ; consisting of a high
conical pile, surrounded by loAver mounds, exhibiting the
artificial character peculiar to Babylonian ruins : I Avished
I had the time and means to excavate these and other
mounds, Avhich must be full of treasures of antiquity : on
the right bank there is a mound, AA'ith the remains of
old Avails. At 3-30 Ave dragged the raft on shore, at a
tamarisk jungle, and cut doAvn enough to cover it about
tAvo feet deep : Ave had brought with us a bag of rice
and a jar of butter, and Ave made a fire here and cooked
a pillau. The feathery branches of the tamarisk formed,
as they became compressed, a comfortable foundation for
our beds, which Ave placed side by side along the middle
of the raft, and, although it Avas scarcely 10 feet square,
it was much more commodious than a boat. The sun
was rather Avarm in the middle of the day, as Ave had
no covering over us ; an aAvning would have been incon
venient, by catching the wind and retarding our progress,
or driving us out of the channel ; 4"55 re-embarked and
floated on through broad placid reaches ; the evening Avas
most lovely, the sunlight spread like the fragments of a
shattered mirror over the rippling Avaters,' here broken by
Avooded islands ; the ruddy geese lay on the sandbanks,
the black terns sported over the surface, and the Avild
hogs, disturbed in their solitudes, gazed at us for a
moment in alarm, and rushed aAvay snorting through the
brushAvood ; in the south rose a pile of mounds called
Tshuf, marking the site of a city; on the left bank and
near the mouth of the Great Zab passed Tell Shmota ;
540 hills and cliffs on right bank, beloAV AA'hich on the
left are some sand cliffs quite honey-combed by sand-
martins ; from the foot of the bank at Jaif rises a sulphur
¦spring. At 6 o'clock the river suddenly Avidened, by the
confluence of the Great Zab, Avhich here pours into it
the united Avaters of the mountains of Koordistan ;
6-30 passed a round hill on the right bank, Clu Nasser ;
the weather appeared threatening with lightning in the
west ; at 7 o'clock we Avere opposite Sultan Abdulla,

ASSYRIA.

3°3

Avhen the night fell, and AA'e lay doAvn to sleep; although
the raftman remained at his seat, he AAras not Ion" in
folloAving our example, his head sinking doAA'n on his oar,
and thus Ave floated doAvn the stream all night at the mercy
of Providence.
We travelled three nights in this manner, yet fortu
nately escaped Avithout serious accident, although often
aAA'oke in alarm by the roaring of a rapid, into Avhich we
had been draAvn by the current : or the thundering fall
of the sand banks as they Avere undermined by the stream
and fell into the water : or the not less unpleasant sensa
tion of grating on a shalloAv, on to which the backAvater
had carried us ; with the exception of these little breaks,
we slept as sound as if there had been no water under
us. The effect of the falling in of the banks is very im
pressive in the silence of the night, and occurring, as it
does, at short intervals, resembles successive claps of thun
der. Further down the river toAvards Bagdad, the naviga
tion is rendered dangerous after dark by the number of
scaffoldings jutting out from the bank, and supporting the
apparatus for raising water for irrigation ; this consists of
a large leather bucket, Avhich is draAvn up over a pulley, a
hose is attached to the lower part, by AA-hich it empties
itself. NotAvithstanding the heavy rains which have
prevailed for five months in Syria and the north of
Mesopotamia, no rain has fallen this year south of the
Jebel Hamrin range, and Ave found the country quite burnt
up, and the people complaining of drought.
April jo. — At daylight this morning Ave Avere opposite
high cliffs on the right bank, the central rocky peak of
Avhich is called Kala M'kohl ; this is a spur of the Hamrin
hills, and goes by the name of Kanooja ; to the north of
this is Kala Shergat, Avhich AA'e had passed in the night ;
in the south rise the Hamrin, a long range of Avhite barren
hills marked Avith deep gullies. Our boatman, Avho pro
fessed to know the names of all the localities on the river,
tells us that the Hamrin on the right bank go by the
name of Jebel M'kohl : Hamrin being the name given

304 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
to the range beginning on the left bank ; the shores on
either side are clothed Avith tamarisk jungle. At 6-15 A.M.
Ave passed the mouth of the Little Zab, or Shat Kupri,
floAving from the eastAvard ; 7-25 on the hills to the
right are the ruins of a castle called Kala Djibar, part of
the Avails furnished Avith bastions in a ruinous state, Avind
up the slopes of the hills ; 9-20 opposite the Hamrin
range on the left bank : these hills cross the Tigris
diagonally from N.W. to S.E. ; 1 1 passed Djebel Legleg,
on the left bank, a group of truncated conical hills of
conglomerate ; the shores and islands are AA'ooded Avith
tamarisk and other shrubs ; among the cliffs AA'e saAv a
feAV of the ibis Avhich AA'ere so numerous at Birejik ;
2' 1 5 P.M. hills on the right croAvned Avith Moslem tombs,
called Said Kerim Ibn Cabon ; left bank Ioav : these
hills, AA'hich form perpendicular cliffs over the Avater are
a mass of conglomerate through their Avhole depth: south
of these the cultivation of grain by irrigation commences ;
4*15 arrived at Tekrit, formerly a place of great im
portance ; the present town contains about 300 houses :
the natives, a mixed race of Turks and Arabs, appeared
evil-disposed and inhospitable ; to the north of the toAvn
rise high perpendicular cliffs, on Avhich the old fortress
Avas built; these cliffs have been faced Avith brick a long
Avay doAvn, and their summits croAvned Avith Avails and
bastions ; Avhich, hoAA-ever, are fast disappearing, for the
ruins form a depot of building materials ; and large rafts
are continually loading Avith the bricks, AA'hich are sent
doAvn to Bagdad : this latter place is chiefly built of bricks
brought from the ruins of the old cities. The people
Avere crossing and re-crossing the river on pairs of inflated
goatskins, tying their clothes in a bundle on their heads
and propelling themselves Avith their feet. We left Tekrit
at 5 ; just beloAV it the cliffs finish, and the river expands
to a great breadth, appearing like a Avide lake : Ave
landed on the opposite bank, and took our dinner, re
maining three-quarters of an hour ; and then floated on
Avithout further incident till the folloAving morning, \A-hen

ASSYRIA. -jO^
Ave were beloAV the large town of Samarra, rebuilt by the
Caliph Motassem in S30 ; at 6 Ave Avere opposite Dedgel
on the right bank ; here aac passed the first masted Arab
boat tracking up the stream.
May /. — This morning aac Avere surprised at being
surrounded by myriads of Ephemerides, covering the
AA-hole surface of the water; they were a variety of May
fly, but as large as butterflies ; their Avings, of AA'hich
the upper pair Avere broAvn, the loAver Avhite, resembled
parchment; the head and body AA-ere black; the tall
barred black and Avhite AA'ith long forks ; as the nymphse
rose in shoals to the surface, they burst, and gave birth
to these creatures of an hour, Avhich even then never left
their parent element, but skimmed along on their forked
tails AA'ith the greatest SAA'iftness over the surface of the
Avater, AA'hich appeared alive under their sportive gyrations :
they Avere not long unmolested ; attracted by the prey,
flocks of tern, croAvs, and bee-eaters soon assembled,
screaming and Avheeling above the living SAvarms, Avhich
they devoured on the Aving ; Avhile the fish attacked
them from beneath ; but scarcely Avere their numbers
diminished: "'twas but a little hour of sunny bliss," and
their languid Avings drooped in the soaking tide; their
evolutions ceased as suddenly as they began ; and instead
of the spinning of their countless Avings, the surface of
the stream Avas covered Avith floating masses of dead and
dying. 10-30 avc came to the first grove of palm trees
on the left; ii"30 passed the village of Sindea on the
same bank ; from here and up to the vicinity of Bagdad
the date palms are all planted on the left bank of the
river ; on inquiry I Avas told that it AA-as to avoid the
depredations of the Arabs to Avhich they Avould be
exposed on the other bank : even in the neighbourhood
of Bagdad, Avhere they groAv on both sides of the stream,
the Arabs come doAvn and pitch their tents in the groves
during the date season ; and not only live on the fruit,
but carry away as much as they can in their retreat.
We landed in a date grove, with an undergrowth of
VOL. 1. 20

306 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
spreading orange, citron, and pomegranate trees, melodious
with the song of nightingales, and SAA'arming with turtle
and ring doves : I even saAv here a little horned oavI and
a pair of falcons ; these cool scented boAvers form delicious
retreats in the heat of the day. Passed villages of Musoria
and Sadia ; these villages are all emboAA'ered in graceful
palm groves. We halted for nearly tAvo hours the last
afternoon, to avoid arriving at Bagdad in the night or
too early in the morning; threAv a line over for fish, but
only succeeded in taking a small one, a specimen of a
numerous family peculiar to the Asian rivers, and AA'hich
all go by the name of Shabood, or Kaboodie : they have
no scales, and a great many long beards from the nose
and chin. I do not think I ever witnessed a more
magnificent sunset than on this evening off El HoAvash :
the river was literally a mass of molten gold ; a breeze
winding through the taper shafts of the feathery palms
AA'afted from the orange groA'es floods of the most ex
quisite perfume ; and the ruddy rays shot far aAvay into
the recesses of the interminable colonnades that lined the
eastern shore, and bathed the weeping branches in crimson
light : it AA'as a scene of enchantment, Avhich repaid one
for much toil. We floated on under the Avooded shore,
Avatching the changing hues, and enjoying the luxury of
the hour, till night closed around, and threAv a veil over
its beauties ; to reveal the vast spangled concave reflected
in the sleeping mirror, making our little raft seem like
the centre of one immense blue starry sphere : Ave had
several escapes of being dashed against the poles support
ing scaffoldings during the night ; and the boatman
persuading us Ave were much nearer the toAvn than AA'as
the fact, Ave brought up for four hours.
May 2. — The approach to Bagdad by the river from
the north is strikingly beautiful, as Avell from the novelty
of the palm foliage as from the imposing features of the
scene ; the river is 220 yards Avide, the banks approach
nearer to each other, but not enough to destroy the
grandeur of the noble stream doAvn Avhich you float

ASSYRIA.

3°7

through AA-inding vistas of palm, orange and pomegranate.
We first came in sight of the four gilt minarets and
domes of the sanctuary of Imam Moosa at Casimeen,
tOAvering above the date trees ; this is the resort of the
Shcah sect, Avho are mostly Persian pilgrims or refugees,
and is said to be a nest of scoundrels. At 10 o'clock we
entered the city of the Kaliphs, the tAro banks connected by
a bridge of boats spanning the river; the houses are chiefly
built of broAvn bricks, AA'ith here and there a gayer kidshk,
a coffee shop Avith ornamented eaves overhanging the
stream, or a more modern house, furnished with light
wooden balconies, the AA-hole thickly interspersed Avith
trees. Near the north end on the right bank are the
remains of some ancient buildings of massive brickAvork
ornamented Avith Korannic mouldings of the same descrip
tion as those at Mosul ; on the left bank, just before
reaching the bridge, stand the remains of AA'hat Avas the
principal mosque, half of it having fallen in from being
undermined by the river three years ago ; the Avhole of
the interior is thus exposed ; half of the dome being still
untouched, it forms a striking object in ruins; the domes
of the mosques are covered Avith blue and green tiles ;
the minarets are not high, but extremely Avell built ; the
Saracenic moulding under the galleries being elegantly
and elaborately Avorked. The river, as Ave floated doAvn,
was covered Avith boats and rafts : the boats are of very
peculiar construction ; the larger ones, AA'hich are lying in
tiers under the banks, have pointed stems and sterns
rising to a most disproportionate height, and are furnished
Avith a mast; the smaller boats, Avhich are continually
passing from one shore to the other, are circular Avicker
baskets, thickly coated Avith bitumen, and roAA-ed AA'ith
one or more paddles : these are called Goufa, but are
appropriately named asphaltic coracles ; as our raft could
not pass the bridge, Ave Avere obliged to leave it and embark
in one of these coracles ; on the other side of the bridge
the houses have more regularity, Avith balconies pro
jecting over the water; this is principally on the left

308 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
bank, which is occupied by the main toAvn ; the other side
being only a suburb ; Ave Avere soon greeted Avith the
sight of the British flag flying on board the Nimrud
steamer, AA'hich Avas lying off the Residency ; here Ave
landed, and Avere hospitably Avelcomed by Colonel Taylor,
the British Political Resident in Turkish Arabia.
Bagdad Avas built about 500 of the Hegira, and called,
by Abu Djaffer al Musor, Darr el Salam ; it remained the
seat of the Kaliphate for 500 years, till it passed under
the sway of the Moguls, in 1258 ; it Avas taken by Tamer
lane in 1392. This far-famed city possesses feAv remains
of the grandeur of the Kaliphate, Avith the exception of
some of the bazaars, Avhich are massively built, and an
immense khan for merchandize : the bazaars, though
arched over, are narroAv ; perhaps they may have been
so built for coolness, in such a hot locality as Bagdad,
AA'here the temperature rises indoors, in summer, to 1200.
From the summit of a forsaken minar, an extensive view
of the toAvn and surrounding country is obtained, Avith
the Avindings of the Tigris through an ocean of date-
trees, Avhich more or less conceal the buildings ; to the
East stretches a Avide sheet of Avater, left by the late
inundations : the interior of the houses is better than
their outside Avould promise ; one room in the Residency
AA-as entirely ceiled and pannelled with mirrors, ornamented
and corniced with gilding and arabesque pattern-Avork,
and furnished Avith couches, slightly raised from the floor :
the effect produced by the plate-glass is very beautiful,
increasing the extent and enhancing the splendour of the
Avhole. In the house of the Pacha, Avhich looks on to
the river, the rooms are richly gilt and painted, but in
quite a different style, by Persian artists ; the Avails are
loaded Avith a profusion of gaudy floAvers, AA'hich, though
stiff, are generally correct to nature, and the panels en
circled with gilt foliage : this gaudy style is not to be
compared in beauty to the neat interlacing and mathe
matical precision of the arabesque. Ali Pacha himself
is a little man, remarkable for nothing but extreme

ASSYRIA.

309

rotundity of figure, AA'hich does not sIioav to advantage
in tight European costume : avc paid him a ceremonious
visit in state, attended by the Resident's interpreter and
caA'asscs. The commerce of the toAvn consists chiefly, besides
European goods, of tobacco, galls, and dates ; much of
the trade in produce is engrossed by Jcavs, of Avhom
there are about IOOO families: the European trade is in'
the hands of Armenians and Levantines ; the tobacco
is principally Persian Tumbacu, AA'hich is the only sort
suitable for the narghileh, or Avater-pipe, and forms a
large branch of commerce, supplying the Avhole of Turkey
and Syria : it is groAvn in the vicinity of Shiraz. Ibrahim
Pacha made an attempt to produce this description in
the North of Syria, but entirely failed ; hoAvever, as he
Avould not be a loser by the speculation, he forced the
merchants to take it off his hands, and they disposed of
it, at a loss, by mixing it Avith the genuine. The dates
are produced in the Pachalic ; they are preserved by
being immersed in boiling water and dried, when they
become crystallized and extremely hard : the average
produce of each tree is three cavL
We met here Dr. Ross, the surgeon to the Residency
(to whose directions Ave had been indebted in our ex
pedition to Al Hadr), Captain Lynch, Avho succeeded
Colonel Chesney in the command of the Euphrates ex
pedition, and a party of his officers. Another of the
steam flotilla came up the river the clay after our arrival,
the Nitocris, Lieut. Jones, Avho, I found, had been intimate
Avith my brother in Bombay, and brought me the in
formation that he Avas ordered, Avith his regiment, the
1 8th Royal Irish, to Canton. These steamers are made
of iron, separated into three compartments ; they carry
six sAvivels and two large guns fore and aft. Three or
four of these boats were brought out, in pieces, to
Bassora on board a brig, Avith the necessary artificers and
engineers : they arrived at that place in December, and
noAV, in about five months, are fit for Avork. I imagine

3IO FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
that this flotilla is here, more Avith a political object than
for any service it may render either in fonvarding mails
or merchandize ; for the latter it is useless, and, for de
spatches to India, it is much too dilatory : should the
Suez line ever be interfered with, there is a land route
across the desert to Beyrout : and another by courier,
through Turkey in Asia to Constantinople, by Avhich
letters Avould travel with greater despatch. I am informed
that these steamers, in descending the river, add the rate
of the current to their speed, and make from tAvelve to
fifteen miles an hour; but, in steaming up the river, sub
tract the current of about six miles an hour from their
rate of progression, by Avhich they only ascend from two
to three miles in the hour; and this can only be done at
the season of the descent of the freshes ; for, after the
river has fallen, the impediments, in the shape of rapids
and shalloAVs, AA'ould prevent the ascent of the Euphrates
from Bassora to any great distance ; the steamers Nimrud
and Euphrates came from Bassora to Bagdad, on the 3rd
of June, in seven days, stopping during the night.
The heat during the day, at this season of the year,
and during the summer, is so great that the people are
obliged to live in vaults (sardaub), AA'hich are constructed
for the purpose under all the houses ; the streets, at this
time, are deserted : in these A'aults, Avhich are ten degrees
colder than the outer air, we took our meals, fanned by a
punkah, the first one I have seen used, and an importa
tion from India ; these vaults become close and moist after
dark, Avhen Ave ascended to the roof of the house to take
tea, the servants making use of the flat chimney-tops as a
sideboard ; fortunately for Bagdad, the air from the river
usually renders the evenings cool, and, as long as it is
moonlight, this skying is very agreeable : it is impossible
to use a light at other times, as it Avould immediately
attract clouds of mosquitoes and insects from the river and
marshes : and you are obliged to carry on conversation in
the dark, while you strive to pierce the gloom to see if
your neighbour is listening to you. The Avhole population

ASSYRIA. 3 I I
sleep out on these terraced roofs at night ; the tops of
the houses being separated by Avails more or less high,
according to the jealousy of the natives; if half Avhat is
reported be true, the morality of Bagdad is at a very Ioav
ebb indeed. The Arabic language is spoken here in a
much purer form than in Syria ; the population is a
mixed race of Arabs and Turks ; the toAvn is supplied
with river-Avater, carried in skins by men and donkeys. I
here first saAv that destructive insect, the termite, or AA'hite
ant ; being soft and unfurnished Avith the scaly skin of
the other species, they carry on their devastations under
covered Avays, AA'hich they make as they proceed, covering
everything they destroy Avith a coat of hardened mud :
this also protects them from their enemies, the black
ants, and from birds : fireflies I saAAr, but they are not
common. May 7. — The steamers leaving to-day for Bassora, AA'e
profited by the opportunity to visit the sites of Ctesiphon
and Seleucia, called by the Arabs Al Modain (The cities) ;
Ave Avent doAvn the stream at a rapid rate; the only fuel
used is the AA-ood of the tamarisk, Avhich groAV.s abun
dantly on the banks of the river, and is supplied at fixed
stations by contract AA'ith the Arabs, notAvithstanding their
occasional hostility, a late instance of which occurred to
one of these neAv steamers on her way up to Bagdad ;
someAvhere above the junction of the rivers they Avere
fired on by the Arabs, one ball entering the paddle-box
and another indenting the funnel; the steamer returned
the favour by charges of grape-shot among the herds of
buffaloes, killing many of these valuable cattle; this Avould
be a greater punishment to the Arabs than killing their men,
and be a lesson to them to be more cautious in molesting
us • they probably belonged to a tribe of Arabs Avho inhabit
the marshes doAvn betAveen the junction of the Euphrates
and Tigris, and who occupy themselves entirely Avith the
pasturage of buffaloes, on the produce of Avhich they live;
they are subordinate and tributary to the great tribe of
the Montefik.

312 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
I AA'as told a story of these same people in connection
v/ith the Chief of the Montefik, AA'ho at that time Avas
a young man named Agcel, Avho is described as having
been remarkably handsome, with his hair floAving in curls
over his shoulders ; the tribe in question, Avhose name
I do not recollect, had enjoyed an exemption from
part of their tribute, on condition of their keeping
certain dykes on the river in repair : this, hoAvever, had
been neglected, and remonstrances were in vain, until
the accession of Ageel, A\ho, finding messages and com
plaints ineffectual, at last Avent himself to see the work
done ; the people Avere collected and already engaged
on the dykes Avhen their Chief came up ; Ageel asked
him why his orders had been so repeatedly disobeyed
and unattended to. " Why," said the Chief sneeringly,
" AA'e are not accustomed to be commanded by boys !"
" It is Avell," said the enraged Ageel : " and noAV you
shall see how a boy shall be obeyed," and giving
orders to his people, the unfortunate Sheik Avas im
mediately seized, and built alive into the rising em
bankment Avith his head out, in the presence of all his
tribe. This young Chief Avas aftenvards killed in an
engagement Avith the Shammar Arabs, Avho being put to
flight, he incautiously folloAved them too far, AAhen his
mare slipping, fell on his leg, and before he could
extricate himself, one of his enemies returned and ran
him through Avith his lance.
We brought up in tAvo hours and three-quarters opposite
the ruined Avails of Seleucia, the fragments that remain con
sisting of sun-dried bricks are of no interest ; half a mile
from the left bank rises the extraordinary massive pile
knoAvn by the name of Tak i Kesra, the Arch of Chosroes,
the only relic of Ctesiphon Avhich has been spared by the
successive inundations of the river ; Ave found it entirely
surrounded by Avater, being slightly elevated on a Ioav
mound ; Ave all landed and Avaded through the marsh,
up to our knees in Avater, inveterately assailed by clouds
of mosquitoes ; we Avere repaid, hoAvever, for our trouble

ASSYRIA. 313
on reaching it : it is a most imposing structure, Avith a long
front facing cast ; in the centre of the face is an enormous
arch 106 feet high, the entrance to a vaulted hall 160 feet
long, which extends to the rear of the building ; the
interior of this has been stuccoed ; the front of the building
is ornamented Avith five stories of blind arches, and the
remains of a sixth : the arches diminish in size as they
ascend ; there being only eight in the loAver tier, and tAvcnty-
four in the 5th ; betAveen the arches of the first and second
stories are eight pillars, and the same above this betAA'een
those of the third and fourth, but placed without regularity.
The accompanying sketch gives a correct outline of the
building, it is constructed entirely of small bricks ; there
is a peculiarity in the central arch, Avhich decreases in
width near the ground, forming part of an oval ; as
there is nothing to shoAV that the sides have given Avay,
it must have been originally built on this principle, and
its present state of preservation has proved its stability
Avhen the rest of the city has perished ; the rooms, Avhich
formerly occupied the sides, are in ruins ; this edifice,
although it will not bear a comparison with Al Hadr in
the beauty of the building and its architectural details,
appears to have approximated to the plan of the palace
in those ruins before described ; the same imposing front,
the same vast halls, and their position facing east, are some
of the points of similarity ; but the buildings are evidently
of different dates.
The brushAvood jungles and reedy banks of the Euphrates
are the resort of lions, which are found along its course,
from the north of Shergat, Avhere we first heard of them,
to the S.W. of Persia : this animal is the lion Avith the
short mane, which is noAV recognized by naturalists as a
distinct variety.
In the evening the mosquitoes were so numerous and
troublesome that we Avere forced at dinner to keep them
off Avith one hand Avhile we ate with the other ; they came
from the marshes in clouds and became literally a dangerous
pest. We had intended going on from here to the site of

314 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
Babylon, and had sent our horses to meet us on the
opposite bank for the purpose ; but the next morning my
saddle Avas carried doAvn on board one of the steamers
by mistake; this disabled me, and my companion being
attacked Avith intermittent fever, Ave thought it better to
defer our visit : landing on the right bank, our return
on horseback to Bagdad Avas painfully tedious, Avading
through marshes left by the inundation of the river : in
many places the stream Avas above the level of the
surrounding country, from AA'hich it was only separated
by an embankment : the banks Avere overgroAA'n with the
liquorice plant. An hour before reaching Bagdad AA'e
Avere completely stopped by the inundation, and Avere
obliged to cross the Tigris to the left bank in one of the
round goufas, Avhich only carried tAvo horses at a time.
One of our party on 'this occasion Avas Captain Edmunds,
of the Bombay Army, Assistant Resident at Bushire,1
Avhich place he Avas obliged to quit on account of our
present quarrel Avith the Persian Government. We oc
cupied six hours returning to Bagdad.
We made acquaintance Avith the Persian princes Avho had
visited England, Timour Meerza and the Wali; the other
brother, Reeza Kouli, Avho claimed the succession, being
absent at Samarra : these princes receive a pension of
^"2000 per annum each from our Government. There are
tAvo other Shahzadehs at Bagdad, Avho I am told are
pensioners of Turkey ; they are uncles of the former, and
sons of Fath Ali Shah : a large party of us Avent to dine
Avith them : the eldest, Ali Verdee Meerza, Avas about forty-
five years of age ; he had the hereditary long handsome
beard of the royal family : the other brother, Suleiman
Meerza, is much younger, tall, and handsome, but as Avild
and reckless as if he Avere the Shah himself: they received
1 This gentleman afterwards volunteered his services to Lord Ponsonby,
and held an important command with the land forces during the operations
of the British in Syria ; on his return to India he was appointed Head
Assistant to the Political Agent in Sind, under Major Outram ; when on the
point of proceeding to that country, he was unfortunately taken ill and died at
Poona.

ASSYRIA.

315

us very courteously; the dinner Avas good, and they made
no scrapie of eating Avith us ; AA'hich is not usual with
Sheahs, although the Soonccs ncA-cr object to it; there
Avas no lack of Avine and brand)- at this feast ; and their
great amusement seemed to consist in trying to make their
guests tipsy, AA'hich Avas succeeded by romping, changing
hats, caps, turbans, and other childish amusements : after all
these schoolboy tricks, Avhen they had to appear in public,
it Avas amusing to Avitness their stolidity and apparent
unconsciousness, as they rode through the streets Avithout
moving limb or feature ; AA'hat the Prince de Ligne said
of the English may Avell apply to Mussulmans : " lis sont
comme des levriers. lis courent, ils dansent, ils sautent
et puis ils ont l'air de rever toujours." They had a fine
young lion, which rolled about among us on the carpets,
and seemed rather too large to be at liberty, and under
little control.
I heard the folloAving tragic story in AA'hich Suleiman
Meerza Avas concerned, and the consequences of Avhich
might have proved fatal to himself. Being out hawking
some miles from Bagdad, his falcon missed her quarry,
and fleAV aAvay, alighting on the tent of an Arab at a
small camp. Suleiman Meerza rode up to the tent, to
recover the bird ; but the oAvner of the tent, having taken
possession of it, refused to deliver it up ; Suleiman, not
accustomed to be th\A'arted, threatened the man that if he
did not restore it, he Avould compel him. "At least," said
the Arab, "I defy you to take it alive;" and he deliberately
and wantonly Avrung the falcon's neck, and threAv it at its
master's feet, adding, " Noav you may take your bird." The
exasperated Persian immediately dreAV a pistol and shot
the Arab dead, and then galloped off to the toAvn. The
next day the Arabs came to demand justice of the Pacha,
who told them that the Princes Avere guests of the Sultan
and sacred ; and besides, that they Avere Avrong in com
mitting the first unprovoked outrage; so the Arabs Avere
compelled to return Avithout obtaining satisfaction.
There is a beautiful breed of Avhite asses at Bagdad,

3 16 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
AA'hich are much prized by the natives for riding ; they
are much finer made than the common donkey, and
have more spirit ; some feAV are taken to Persia, AA'here
the)- bring a high price, but I imagine they do not thrive
out of their OAvn country, or perhaps OAving to their
expensiveness, they are rarely seen out of the plain of
Bagdad. On Friday night, May 15th, AA'e left to visit the ruins
of Babylon. We had hired horses, and sent them to
meet us some Avay doAvn the opposite banks of the river,
the whole plain round the Avestern suburb being inun
dated : AA'e floated doAvn the stream in a coracle, and at
1 1 o'clock found our horses in AA'aiting ; Avhen Ave mounted
and marched four hours to Khan Azat, crossing four
streams or canals connecting spreading Avaters on the
right and left. Leaving Khan Azat before sunrise, we
passed extensive artificial mounds, Avhich the people here
call Sheshabar (perhaps Perisabor) ; AA'e passed Khan el
Beir, and stopped at Eshendriah, as Ave found it quite
impossible to bear the intense heat of the sun ; AA'e stayed
here till midnight, AA'hen AA'e marched by the light of the
moon, passing Khan Jedide and reaching Khan MhoAveel
an hour before sunrise. The level plain betAveen Bagdad
and the ruins of Babylon presents to the eye nothing but
a hard Avhite glaring surface, intersected by lines or
groups of mounds, the remains of former tOAvns : these
mounds form inexhaustible stores of bricks for building ;
and of them the numerous large caravanserais on these
burning plains have been constructed ; there is one of
these at every tAvo hours or eight miles, besides others
in other directions ; and still the supply fails not, and
the excavations go on continually: there is no \egetation,
but a little scattered gray southermvood. From Khan
MhoAveel, Avhich is surrounded by a grove of palms, to
the ruins, the plain is a little more thickly covered with
AvormAV'ood and capers, the AA'hole track sAvarming AA'ith
the pin-tailed sand-grouse, called by the Arabs Katta,
I believe on account of its note resembling the meAving

ASSYRIA. 317
of a cat, also called Katta in Arabic. At these Khans
Ave Avere tormented by the attacks of small sand-flies,
like midges, so transparent that they Avere scarcely visible ;
their bite is like the pricking of a needle.
About six miles north of Hilla aa'c came to the large
mound or ruin called by the natives Babel ; it is an exten-
siA'e truncated hill, composed of bricks and rubbish, full of
caverns and holes, the remains of old vaults, AA-hich are
inhabited by jackals ; most of the bricks are stamped
AA'ith Babylonian inscriptions, a most complicated form
of the Cuneiform. From the southern point of this hill
an extensive vieAv is commanded of the Avinding of the
Euphrates, Avith Burj Nimrood standing boldly on the
horizon about fourteen miles distant ; after exploring
these debris for an hour, Ave Avent on to Hilla, proposing
to visit the other mounds on this side the river on our
return, the great object of interest being the Burj itself;
descending from the mounds, Ave started a djerboa, Avhich
bounded aAvay on its long hind legs like a grasshopper :
crossing some marshy land, my horse stumbled and
pitched me on my head, but I escaped Avithout per
manent injury beyond bruises ; after traversing tAA'o miles,
betAveen groves of date trees planted in lines and inclosed
by mud Avails, Ave reached Hilla, a good-sized tOAA-n, cross
ing by a bridge of boats ; Ave put up at a khan on the
opposite side. The Euphrates is much narroAver here
than the Tigris at Bagdad, but is a fine rapid stream ;
both are much SAvollen by the late descent of the floods
from Asia Minor and Koordistan.
Hilla, Avhich dates from the year 500 of the Hegira,
A.D. 1 100, is built of bricks from the Babylonian ruins.
It Avas peopled jointly by colonists from the Arab tribe
of Beni Assad, and the few remaining descendants of
the Babylonians, calling themselves Babelene ; the latter
race has, however, become finally extinct : the pure
Beni Assad tribe are still living in tents on the desert,
and of course despise their stationary brethren of the
toAvn ; the toAvn is surrounded by date groves, has some

3 18 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
bazaars of shops, and enjoys a considerable trade in black
lamb, or kid skins, dates and a few manufactures ; it is
also enriched by the continual passage of pilgrims, Avho
come from all parts of Persia to visit Mesjid AH and
Kerbela, Avhich are in its vicinity. A Sheah AA'ho has
visited the latter place always affixes Kerbelai after his
name ; as a Soonee visiting Mecca prefixes the title of
Hadji ; tAA'enty miles to the south is the reputed tomb
of Ezekiel, to AA'hich the Jcavs of Bagdad and other
places make an annual pilgrimage ; JeAvs are numerous
at Hilla. The reason I mention pilgrimages as a source
of profit is because pilgrims in the East usually unite
commercial speculations Avith their deA'otional journeys.
May r8. — To avoid as much as possible the heat of
the sun, Ave started from Hilla by moonlight at tAvo in
the morning, for the purpose of visiting the Burj, about
seven miles south of the toAA'n ; AA'e took a straight line
across a desolate country, intersected at intervals by small
muddy canals, and trenched and partitioned as if it had
been under cultivation ; in some feAv places patches of
barley Avere groAving, and on these were generally four
or five little black huts, or tents ; on nearing the mound,
avc AA-ere obliged to make a detour to the left, to avoid
an extensive marsh, and then crossed a tract of Avhite
dry soil, covered AA'ith brushAvood, and SAvarming Avith black
partridge : I never saAv these birds so plentiful ; they are
usually shy, but here they Avere running about like
foAA'ls, croAving in all directions, and springing from every
bush ; a good shot might have bagged tAventy or thirty
brace in the course of an hour or tAA'o.
Just before sunrise Ave reached the loAver mounds
surrounding the Burj in a storm of wind from the south,
Avhich drifted the dust in clouds across the Avaste, and
by the time we had ascended the hill, the sun rose a dark
crimson globe struggling to pierce the murky atmosphere,
adding to the gloomy solitude of the scene, than Avhich
I never witnessed anything more impressive. This extra
ordinary hill, together Avith the mounds at its foot, are

^¦•v*
K8^

BIES XlMRfB. BABTLOir.

•.V/p^"-^-'

,?-r.t„-rj2C3Z?X

BABYLON.

ASSYRIA.

319

solid masses of brick masonry ; the gullies of the central
hill and the surface of the mounds are covered Avith
vitrified brick, in black, green, and yelloAV fragments ; on
the sides of the hill, in many places, the solid brick
building is exposed, othenvise it is coA-crcd Avith a mass
of smooth debris cut perpendicularly into channels and
gullies by the rain. The summit of the mound is croAvned
by a pinnacle of yelloAV brick Avail, AA'hich, Avhen measured
by Rich, Avas 37 feet high by 28 broad : this Avail is
vitrified on one side, but in other parts is soft and can
be cut Avith a knife ; it is pierced Avith oblong horizontal
holes, both breadthAvays and lengthAvays. At the foot of
this Avail are piled some large black masses, or boulders,
some of them 7 or 8 feet in diameter, Avhich Avere
mistaken by Kinneir for stone, but in places Avhere they
have been fractured, the layers of brick are very apparent,
shoAving these rocks to be fragments of brickAvork, fused
into solid masses and A'itrified by the intense action of
fire. Comparing the partial destruction, and apparent
neAvness of the Avail, Avith the so utter transmutation of
these masses, it Avould seem that the former AA'as pro
tected, Avhile the latter AATas undergoing the extreme ordeal
of fire ; for no one can doubt that fire in some shape Avas
the agent in the destruction of this edifice ; and I therefore
conclude that these black rocks, Avhich must originally
have rested on the summit of the mound, have gradually
sunk doAvn by the disintegration and Avashing aAvay of
the pulverized materials, till they arrived at their present
position ; the same cause leaving exposed the present
elevated fragment of brick masonry.
Rich makes the circumference of the mound 762 yards,
with an elevation from the plain on the Avest 198 feet.
The appearance of the ruin and the surrounding country
is striking and unique ; the former is emphatically what
Jeremiah has called it, a "burnt mountain," Avhilst far
around stretches a dreary expanse of desolate plains,
Avith toAvards the south and west some extensive marshes.
I have no ancient author at hand to consult, to venture

320 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
on deciding Avhether this building AA'as Avithin the Avails of
the city or not, but it certainly appears to have been
isolated ; hoAvever, I have no doubt that it Avas, originally,
the principal .temple of Belus attached to the capital;
although it is difficult to account for the traditional name
of Burj Nimrood (the tOAver of Ximrod), or Babel, given
it by the Arabs, and Avhich would imply its existence before
Babylon ; but, as it is probable the Arabs had no tradi
tion of Nimrod before the time of Mohammed, this site
Avas most likely identified by them, and received its name
after the publication of the Koran. The general appear
ance of the site of Babylon is sufficient to strike the
careless Avith astonishment, and the incredulous AA'ith aAve;
yet I am aAvare of having stated some details AA'hich will
give a handle to the caviller. Because a feAV tents are
seen on this Avilderness, and some Arabs, belonging to
Hilla, carry on a little temporary cultivation by its pools
of Avater, he will say, in disproof of the prophecies, that
the Arabian still pitches his tent there, and the shep
herds fold their flocks there: and overlook the vast mounds
of ruins AA'hich rise in froAvning grandeur on the bosom
of this impressive solitude ; the fire of heaven that vitri
fied her palaces ; and the general desolation of the locality,
formerly the most fertile in the knoAvn Avorld. Another
argument against the truth is adduced by assuming that the
toAui of Hilla, surrounded by palm-groves, is in the middle
of the site of Babylon ; but I consider it next to im
possible to determine on the precise limits and figure of
a place so utterly destroyed as this is; nor is there any
thing but hypothetical eA'idence to prove that Hilla is
Avithin the limits of the Avails of the old city : but
Christianity stands on a surer basis than the ruins of
Babylon, nor can it be shaken by such adventitious cir
cumstances.1 1 I should suppose that no one who has seen this ruin, and visited the
Hindoo temples of Southern India, could avoid being struck by their identity.
The pyramidal piles of nearly solid brickwork of Madura, Combaconum and
Tanjore would form exactly similar ruins to the Bmj Nimrood. Herodotus

ASSYRIA.

321

On our return, aa-c passed through the toAvn Avith
out stopping, and crossing the bridge of boats Avent
directly to the mound or ruin called the Mklouba or
Mujelibi, Avhich Kinneir makes 750 yards in circumference.
It is four or five miles from Hilla, close to the left bank
of the river; instead of being solid like the others, it is
composed of heaps of loose bricks and rubbish, and is
dug into pits and hollows by successive explorers ; in
places Avhere late excavations had been going on, the
large bricks, a foot square, stamped with Cuneiform in
scriptions, came aAvay quite perfect ; betAveen some of
them Avere layers of bituminous charcoal, on Avhich the
letters Avere stamped in relief; some of the masses of
brick have been partially vitrified : the stamped bricks are
of a light broAvn colour, but remarkably hard; on the
side near the river is part of a solid brick building of a
assigns eight stories to the temple of Babylon ; the Hindoo buildings are usually
seven stories high, but often more. The probability of this is strengthened by
the following article from Calmet's Dictionary, where it is asserted that a funda
mental principle of the Hindoo idolatry is derived from this locality ; and it is
natural to suppose that Avhere the worship originated, from the same place
would be taken the model of the temples consecrated to that worship. Under
the head Babel : — The Hindoo relation says, that the origin of the Lingam
Avorship was derived from the banks of the Cumud Vati (Euphrates), where
the first of these idols was erected, under the name of Baliswara linga (Iswara,
the infant, Baal), seeming to answer to Jupiter Puer of the west .- Baleswara
and Balisa are synonymous in the Purans, and appear to be derived from the
Bel or Belus of Babe! . Any one reading the Scripture account of the golden
image set up by Nebuchadnezzar in the plain of Dura must be struck with the
absurdity of supposing a figure sixty cubits high by six broad could ever have
represented a man ; and yet we are astonished to find a person of the erudition
of Prideaux torturing matter, space, and his own intellect to force this con
clusion : and Calmet, with the above plain article before him, countenancing,
by giving place to his hypothesis ; even the lynx-eye of Maurice, in his
elaborate work on Indian antiquities, has passed this over unnoticed : I am
quite convinced that this golden image was no other than the Brahminical
symbol of the pillar, the Avorship of which was then so general, and which now
pervades India. The principal idol worshipped at Petra, in Idumea, was an
octagonal stone pillar : and Maurice himself gives the following, from
Athena:us : "At one of the magnificent festivals of Osiris, Ptolemy Phila-
delphus displayed to the Egyptians a pillar of gold, richly painted and adorned
with golden crowns : one hundred and twenty cubits in length, with a star of
burnished gold on the top, the circumference of which was six cubits : this was
borne aloft, like the other idols, on a splendid car, and, like them, received
homage from the gazing crowd."
vol. 1. 21

322 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
yelloAvish colour, Avith an appearance of great neAvness ;
the Avails of this are in some places eight feet thick ; it
has probably been restored to light by excavators. At
the north end of this mound is a tamarisk tree, of a
different variety from that AA'hich groAvs so abundantly on
the rivers in this country ; I Avas told that it Avas the only
specimen of the variety existing ; it is sacred, and goes
by the name of the tree of Amran Ibn Ali ; about forty
paces N.E. of this tree, and partially buried in a holloAv,
is the large statue of black granite, representing a lion
Avith a man under him ; the block is aj? feet long and
very rudely carved ; it is the only stone I saAv near these
ruins ; the rest of the mound is an indistinguishable
mass of debris and rubbish. On a narroAV space, betAveen
the mounds and the river, we found an encampment of
fellahs, belonging to Hilla, Avho told us they had come
out for the purpose of cultivating a little barley; at other
times they live in the toAvn ; they Avere remarkably friendly
and obliging, and brought us milk and fruit ; Ave rested
for tAvo hours in a thick grove of date and pomegranate
trees bounding the mounds to the north, surrounded
by these people, Avho were amusing and intelligent ; they
could not understand Avhy the English left all their
friends and relations and Avandered about these coun
tries ; they said if Ave Avould remain AA'ith them, they
Avould give us beautiful Avives, and make Sheiks of us ;
avc Avere obliged to resist this (to an Arab) most irre
sistible temptation, and resume our march, trusting that
our future travels might ahvays bring us into as good
company. To the eastAvard of this is another conspicuous
mound, Avhich possesses nothing in common Avith the other
ruins : red bricks are uncommon in the others ; but this
mound is entirely composed of fragments of red brick,
on none of Avhich I could discover the arroAv-headed
Avriting ; from its red colour it is called Tel a Hummer,
and I should suppose Avas the remains of some fabric of a
later date than the other mounds. On the loAver mounds,
near the Burj Nimrood, there is a small domed sanctuary

ASSYRIA. 323
dedicated to Ibrahim cl Khalil, and tAventy-fJAe miles
N.W. of Hilla, in a grove of date trees, is another Imam
called Nebbi Noeh ; the memory of Abraham, Ezekiel,
and Noah still flourishing above the ruins of Babylon.
We stayed the night at Khan MhoAveel, Avhere Ave pro
cured a pillau of rice and plenty of sour milk, a Avoman
standing by us Avith a skin full of this beverage, to re
plenish our cups ; this she performed by relaxing her hold
of the neck of the skin, Avhich she grasped in one hand ;
a rather primitive Hebe !
On leaving at eleA-en at night, the sleepy khanji only
opened the heaA'y gates Avide enough for our horses to
squeeze through ; and, as I carried my gun slung across
my back, the stock caught on one side and the barrel on
the other, and the horse going on before I could extricate
myself, the strap caught me round the neck, and I Avas
fairly dragged out of the saddle and precipitated to the
ground, alighting on my shoulders ; I Avas thankful that
it Avas no AA-orse, for if my feet had not come out of the
stirrups, I should have been either hung or quartered,
instead of being unpleasantly shaken : it Avas a bad fall,
but did not prevent my travelling all night ; aa-c met
Avith nothing more of interest, except in the morning,
passing flocks of several hundred enormous pelicans,
Avhich AA'ere so lazy Ave could scarcely make them take
flight ; Ave reached Bagdad on the evening of the 19th,
and I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Farren, our late
energetic Consul at Damascus, Avhere he did such good
service and made the English name a poAver in Syria.
Major RaAvlinson, Avhom I expected to find here, had left
with Colonel Shee for India. The folknving is the height
of the thermometer for a feAV days in May, promising a
very hot season ; it sIioavs the highest temperature indoors :
May 20  960 May 24 ..... 99° May 28 __ 102°
„ 21  9S0 ,. 25  i°°° » 29 - 9i°
, 22  100° „ 26  1000 „ 30 _... 92
„ 23 .... ioi" „ 27 _... 1000 „ 31 .._ 94

324

CHAPTER N.
Persia.
In anticipation of the difficulty of proceeding further
without a knoAvledge of the language, we had been com
pelled to make a long delay of nearly tAvo months at
Bagdad, for the purpose of studying Persian. My knoAv-
ledge of Arabic had stood us in good stead thus far, but
Avould be of little use in the countries yet to be traversed,
but by assiduous application Ave had mastered the Persian
sufficiently to enable us to make our Avay, and expected
to improve by practice as Ave travelled on.
Our plan Avas to traverse Persia by Ispahan, and Yezd
to the province of Seistan, and thence trace the river
Helmund to Kandahar ; but on account of a difference
with the Persian Government, and the AvithdraAval of our
Embassy from Teheran, Ave Avere doubtful if Ave should
be alloAved to go through Persia at all, but determined
to make the attempt. We kneAV nothing of AA'hat Avas
going on in those countries except that our Govern
ment had this diplomatic difference Avith the Persians.
Up to this place there had not been any great difficulty
in obtaining money by letter of credit, through the
kindness of Consuls and officials, although there Avere
no fixed banks ; but after leaving Bagdad Ave antici
pated no possibility of obtaining funds before arriving
in India ; consequently it Avas necessary to carry on
our persons the money necessary to carry us through
Persia to Afghanistan. The best Avay of carrying money
is in gold, for Avhich the Persian toman, Avorth ten shillings,
is very convenient ; Persian bills to a traveller Avould be
Avaste paper, and the gold toman is just as portable, and

PERSIA. 325
a sufficient number can be. carried about the person Avith
out inconvenience ; a belt should neA'er be used, as in case
of plunder, it is the first thing the Arab or Turcoman looks
for. After some little experience, I Avould offer another
piece of advice to the traveller : whether the AA'eather or
climate is cold or hot, ahvays clothe Avell : I suffered from
illness in Persia, but I believe I should have suffered
much more if I had not adopted this plan : that Avhich
will protect from cold will also protect from solar heat :
I ahvays Avore an English dress, as any disguise AA'ould have
exposed me to danger and detention ; disguise should
never be resorted to but in cases of extreme emergency,
and quitted as soon as its purpose has been ansAvered, as
its disadvantages greatly preponderate over its trifling
advantages. It AA'as a hard Avrench leaving Colonel Taylor's
hospitable roof, and exchanging the kindness of his
family, and the luxurious entertainment Ave enjoyed, for
the hardships and privations of Eastern travelling ; but
the way Avas still long before me, Avhile the Avorst tAvo-
thirds of the journey had yet to be traversed.
It was considered unsafe to cross the frontier into Persia
at the present moment, there being reports of caravans
having been attacked Avhile crossing the mountains ; it
is also unsettled on account of the late violation of the
Turkish territories by the Persians, who had surprised
and taken Suleimanieh, 150 miles north of Bagdad, and it
was rumoured that the Shah had an intention of marching
to Bagdad itself: in the meantime a force Avas collecting
outside the Avails, to make a shoAV of going to relieve the
former place.
A caravan being about to leave for Kirmanshah, AA-e hired
horses of a head ChaAvardar (mule driver) to accompany
it, and after Avaiting several days, we made a false start
on the 19th June; for, on joining them outside the gates,
we found to our mortification that they Avere not all ready,
and could not proceed, inflicting on us the gratuitous
vexation of sleeping under the toAvn Avails ; after storming
and threatening at a great expense of temper and breath

326 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
to little purpose, for moving a caravan is like moving
a ship, Ave Avere forced to lie doAA'n and sleep off our
disappointment, losing a fine cool moonlight night ; as it
is impossible to travel at this season of the year in these
plains during the day on account of the great heat of the
sun, Ave Avere of course detained till the folloAving evening:
Avhile I remained outside to make sure of a start in the
evening, I folloAved the example of the other travellers,
Avho Avere fastening carpets and cloths to the Avail to form
rude tents, as the heat during the day was tremendous :
there was a large caravan of camels outside about to
leave for Damascus : our caravan consisted of mules and
horses. The present state of the plains forming the basins of
the Tigris and Euphrates presents a striking contrast to
their ancient fertility : AA'here formerly the land returned
several hundredfold, and maintained an overfloAving popu
lation, it is noAV Avith difficulty that they can raise, by
a laborious system of irrigation, enough to supply the
comparatively insignificant tOAvns that are scattered over
their surface ; and yet, humanly speaking, there is nothing
to prevent the redemption of these rich alluvial plains
from their actual state of desolation, Avith the means of
irrigation from these fine rivers at hand, AA'hich, by being
judiciously distributed, instead of allowed to Avaste in
useless inundation, Avould make this country Avhat it once
AA'as : a garden ; but a curse seems to lie upon it.
The sun Avas setting, glaringly reflected in the smooth
AA-ater of the Tigris ; on the banks, and partially mixed
Avith the trees, AA-as pitched the Turkish camp, under
Ibrahim Bey ; nearer, on the opposite bank, Avere as
sembled the camels of the Damascus caravan, a Avild-
looking herd ; the Avater-carricrs Avere Avading into the cool
stream to fill their skins ; the background AA'as composed
of feathery date groves : our caravan Avas all in motion,
some packing, others loading their beasts, some Avashing
in the river and those least encumbered AA'ith baggage
already mounted, and sitting patiently on horseback,

PERSIA.

32/

smoking their narghilehs or counting their beads : at seven
in the evening aac began our march by moonlight, across
Avhite alluvial plains. I did not anticipate a very agree
able journey, the majority of the caravan being composed
of bigoted Persian pilgrims from Kcrbcla and Mesjid Ali :
at eight in the morning Ave reached the Diala (Passitigris),
a fine broad stream AA'ith a sIoav current and a muddy
bed, the left bank rising in Ioav cliffs : this river is lined
on both sides Avith date Avoods ; it Aoavs into the Tic-ris
south of Bagdad : Ave crossed it in a large commodious
ferry boat, Avith a platform for cattle to Avalk into it Avithout
unloading : turning to the right, Ave traversed the small
mud-built toAvn of Yacobea, inhabited by Arabs and
Koords, and stopped for the day in a palm grove beyond
it, each choosing the shadiest spot he could find under
the trees or old Avails to pass the day : the Avails Avhich
enclose gardens, form a very convenient shelter by making
a pent house from them with a rug, and Avhen the sun
reaches one side it is shifted over to the other.
A poor Persian travelling with the caravan offered him
self as our servant ; he called himself a Shahzadeh, and
one of forty brothers : it Is nothing uncommon in this
country for the Shah and princes to have families of
fifty or eighty, but it is rather uncommon for them to
provide for so many ; AA'e engaged this man to cook for
us, and mounted him on one of the mules., The only
Soonee of the party Avas a native of Cabool, who had
been Moonshee Avith Colonel Hughes at Karak, in the
Persian Gulf, from Avhence he had been dismissed for
some misdemeanour, and he was noAV returning to his
OAvn country : he could speak a feAV Avords of English.
We Avere not long unmolested by the fanatical Sheeah
Moollas, Avho, just returned, sanctified, from their pil
grimage, thought it a good opportunity of manifesting
their zeal for their faith by preaching intolerance against
those they called infidels; they told our servant that there
could be no salvation for him If he served us and ate
our food : and so far frightened the Soonee Moonshee,

32S FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
Avho Avas a respectable, and more enlightened man, that
he AA'as afraid to join our mess, and Avould only eat of
our food by stealth after it was dark : of course, he AA'as
the sufferer for his folly. The Persian servant disregarded
their anathemas ; and, as their preaching Avas a relief to
their OAvn minds, Ave did not interfere Avith their amuse
ment, although at times it Avas sufficiently annoying. The
Moonshee sometimes ventured on a controversy with
them in our behalf, as Avell as in defence of his OAvn
faith, in Avhich, being Avell versed in the Koran, he
generally had the advantage of the Persians, Avho, al
though they could read the Arabic Avords, understood
the meaning imperfectly ; they Avere obliged to admit
that Jesus is called the Spirit of God (Rooh Alia) in
their Koran, yet it did not diminish their enmity to his
disciples. Although the higher classes in Persia have no
scruples about eating Avith Christians, they dare not do
it in the presence of their Moollas, and the loAAer classes
not only will not eat Avith you, but will not giA-e you food
or water in their own vessels ; I met Avith a feAv exceptions
to this in Khorassan.
There Avas a Shirazi Avith the caravan, AA'ho Avas on his
AA'ay home : he appeared to be the person of most con
sequence in the caravan, being mounted on a handsome
horse, and armed Avith holsters and carbine, Avith a servant
on a pony carrying his baggage and narghileh ; AA'ith this
man, AA'hose name Avas Meerza Ismael, Ave Avere soon
sAvorn brothers, and his countenance AA'as of use to us in
counteracting the preaching of the intolerant priests ; for
the unstable mob, seeing our friendship Avith their superiors,
paid less attention to the denunciations of these fanatics ;
Meerza Ismael Avas of great service to us in keeping up
our Persian lessons as Ave rode along together, and before
reaching Kermanshah we could manage to carry on a con
versation and understand each other very AAell : although
this man Avould give us anything he had, or assist us in
any Avay, yet he Avas obliged to avoid offending the
prejudices of the Moollas ; he Avould not eat Avith us, and

PERSIA.

329

though he ahAays offered his narghileh, Avhenevcr it Avas
accepted another mouth-pipe Avas put to it ; the apparatus
for smoking this pipe is rather inconvenient for travellers,
Avho in this country are seldom or never Avithout it ; a
pair of large cases or drums, made for the purpose, are
suspended at the saddle-boAv, one of them containing the
large Avater pipe and the other the tubes, tobacco and
other necessary apparatus, and as they are continually
smoking, they must have fire AA'ith them ; this is ahvays
carried in a fire-pan or iron censer, suspended by three
chains from the cantle of the saddle, and hanging doAvn
from the horse's side ; on the other side hangs a large
leather Avater-bottle. There were about ten Avomen of
our party, some carried in pairs in covered panniers,
called CajaAvas, slung on mules, and others riding astride
like the men : theyAvere enveloped in large white Avrappers,
with a Avhite handkerchief over the face, in Avhich was worked
a square of net or open Avork for them to see through.
The dress of the men in Persia is very unbecoming: a long
gOAvn reaching to the ankles and split up the sides, with
tight sleeves, a leather belt, and the hideous black conical
cap of lambskin.
LeaA'ing in the evening, AA'e marched seA-en farsaks across
plains to SheraAvan, a mud village by which Aoavs a small
deep brook ; from here the mountains are in sight beyond
the Hamrin Hills ; I tried to catch some fish, but after
taking tAvo or three fish like chub, the tortoises gorged my
hooks and destroyed my sport and tackle; the large blue
kingfisher is common here.
June 22. — We slept all day in the date Avoods, and
marched at six in the evening E. by N. across plains;
verdant in the vicinity of water, but in other parts the
arid soil Avas covered Avith capers in blossom : at sunset, as
usual, the whole caravan halted for prayers. Before dark
we crossed a small stream by a bridge, and a little beyond
this, another handsome bridge of one arch, over the
Sinvan, and, soon afterwards, ascended a rocky road over
the Hamrin Hills; here it AA'as a regular scramble, all

330 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
crushing through the narrOAV passes, fearful of being cut
off by plunderers ; on the other side the descent into the
plains Avas easy ; and after passing tAvo or three muddy
streams, or ditches, Ave stopped at a caravansera, in the
toAvn of Kizil Robat, having only marched five farsaks ; it
Avas still dark, and Ave slept till morning.
In the evening the Khanji came round to levy con
tributions, and, seeing Ave Avere English, demanded ten
times more than from any one else, Avhich, of course,
Ave refused, offering him AA'hat Avas reasonable ; he then
threatened to send people to rob us during the night,
Avhich we told him he AA'as Avelcome to do ; but assured
him that the first man AA-ho attempted it Avould get shot
for his pains, and, in the meantime, Ave paid him nothing :
these people are a very bad set, a mixture of Koords and
Arabs : Ave, hoAvever, slept unmolested.
We were off at midnight, first crossing a narroAv
stream, and then, through rocky and gravelly hills, Ave
marched five farsaks to the toAvn of Kanakin, which had
a pretty appearance as Ave approached it in the morning ;
embosomed in trees in a slight holloAv, and traversed by
a river called here N'Pool, the real name of Avhich is
the EhA'an ; it is backed by the Zagros Mountains, called
by the natives Koh i Ajam (Mountains of Persia) : this
toAvn, though partly in Persia, the frontier-line traversing
it, pays its reA'enues to the Pachalic of Bagdad ; over the
river is a good brick bridge of thirteen arches, AA'hich Ave
crossed, and found ourselves in Persia.: on this side there
Avas a fine large caravansera, but, tempted by the shade
and coolness of the gardens, Ave bivouacked under the
trees to pass the day ; Ave, hoAvever, found the people as
brutal and inhospitable as at the other places on this
frontier, and had nearly come to a serious collision here
Avith some of the natives. To make friends Avith the
OAvners of the gardens, Ave had bought a quantity of
apricots of them ; but in the course of the day, as I was
strolling amongst the trees, I picked some of the fruit
Avhich hung from the boughs in my path : on this being

PERSIA.

331

seen by one of the gardeners, there Avas a hue and cry ;
his shouts bringing all the rest to his assistance, and
they came doAvn on us in force for satisfaction for the
damage. It seems that the gardens arc held by a sort
of partnership, and Ave found it no easy matter to please
so many ; hoAveA-er, after some trouble, they appeared
pacified by being paid ten times the value of the dam
age : to sIioav the groundlessness of their irritation, I
may mention that at Kermanshah Ave purchased seventy
apricots for the value of one shilling. Thinking the affair
was settled, Ave lay doAvn to sleep, Avhen the storm again
burst out, from some misunderstanding among them
selves, one of the OAvners not getting his share of the
plunder : roused by the noise, I saAv an ogre-like villain,
his " mustachios curling Avith ire," coming toAvards me
with a large stick, for Avhat purpose I could easily guess,
at the same time directing another to assault my com
panion. I pretended to be asleep, when the rascal came
and gave me a poke to aAvake me, and Avas preparing to
proceed to further extremities, Avhen he was brought
to a dead stop by finding I had draAvn a pistol : on
seeing the Moonshee and some of the other people
coming betAveen us to interfere, he again summoned
courage ; and, draAving his curved dagger, with Avhich
they are all armed, he attempted to make a fresh on
slaught ; but of course Avas prevented by the rest, AA'ho,
hoAvever, Avere rather frightened of this felloAv, AA'ho seemed
mad Avith rage. I did not take my eye off him till he
had become a little cool, as I Avas fearful he might take
me by surprise : at length, some arrangement Avas made,
by the Moonshee giving him some trifle, and he Avent off
SAvearing and threatening, and Ave retreated to our cara
van : the others, though not so violent, Avere very difficult
to manage or reason Avith, and it Avas fortunate the affair
ended Avithout any more serious consequences. In this
place, exactly on the frontier, the people have no respect
for either Government : if you show a Sultan's firman
they say they are under Mohammed Shah, and, vice versa,

332 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
so that if any blood had been draAvn, Ave might have been
massacred Avith impunity : and this prevented our en
deavouring to have the man punished by the authorities
of the toAvn, Avhich AA'ould most probably have been
abortive, and have only exposed us to further danger.
The principal fruits in these gardens are apricot, peach,
plum, and pomegranate. The apricots of Western Persia
are the finest variety I have ever seen, not being OA-al and
dry like ours, but round and juicy. The temperature of
the air decreased rapidly as Ave approached the mountains.
We AA-ere told here that it Avas impossible to pass the
country about Kasr Shireen (our next stage), without an
escort, as the road Avas infested by plunderers. In the
large CaraAransera of the village there Avas a party of
tAventy travellers, Avho Avere afraid to proceed, aAvaiting
the collection of a stronger body, and now intending to
proceed with us, they increased our caravan to about
seventy, among whom Avere a dozen women. Among
these latter the intelligence of the danger caused no small
commotion, and OAving to their clamour and the fears of
the head ChaAvardar, it Avas decided to hire an escort of
fifteen Tofunchees (gun-men), for AA'hich a subscription,
amounting to about thirty shillings, Avas to be raised from
the travellers : notAvithstanding that the robbers were
rated at 200 horsemen ! this being settled, Ave slept as
usual in the open air, and started just as the moon rose, in
its last quarter. The guards, hoAvever, Avere not forth
coming, so forgetting their fears in the bustle of pre
paration, they marched Avithout them. About a dozen
of our party carried arms, and those ready for service
rode on the flanks and rear of the caravan, after entering
the loAver spurs of the mountains, composed of rocky
hills ; keeping a sharp look out for any suspicious ap
pearances as AA-e passed the different ravines and holloAA's :
hoAV many of these Avould have stood fight was rather
problematical ; hoAvever they adopted the eastern system
of endeavouring to alarm their enemies, instead of avoiding
notice, by keeping up a dropping fire of blank cartridge

PERSIA.

333

to shoAV (as they said) that they AA'ere prepared : Ave
saAv nothing of the threatened bandits, and at daylight
found ourselves abreast of tAvo remarkable hills on either
side of the road, AA'hich had the appearance of having
been fortified : this place Avas called Kala Esabsee.
June 2j. — Passing a smaller stream, Ave came to the
rapid river, X'Pool, at 6 o'clock, folloAving the banks of
Avhich Ave reached Kasr Shireen at 7 A.M., having marched
five farsaks. There is here a large caravansera and the
remains of a deserted \illage, near Avhich are some ex
tensive Sassanian ruins, most massively built, principally
of black unheAvn stone cemented by lime mortar, Avhich
by age had become as hard as the stone, and resembled
dirty Avhite marble : several vaulted rooms, built of red
brick, are still entire, but the ruins possess no beauty or
symmetry. D'Herbelot mentions that Chosroes built a
city betAveen HohA'an and Kanikin, and named it after
the beautiful Shireen :l the loves of Ferhad and Shireen
are Avell knoAvn in Persian romance. There is a smaller
mound of ruins called the little Kasr. The Avhite holly
hock groAvs Avild in great abundance on the surrounding
hills, as AA-ell as a beautiful species of furze Avith rose-
coloured blossoms, otherwise the country is barren, and
the mountains in front have an equally desolate and
forbidding appearance. The graves in the cemeteries are
ornamented in a novel style, having each a tall square
roughly heAvn obelisk at the head. At this place AA'e
could procure neither fuel nor provisions, and the AA'ater
of the river Avas slightly brackish ; Ave AA'ere obliged to be
satisfied Avith a pillau of rice and butter, and started again
at sunset, through a barren, rocky and hilly country :
during the night march our caravan AA'as throAvn into a state
of alarm by the looming in front of them of a large dark
mass, above Avhich Ave could plainly distinguish the bristling
of spears ; awaiting their approach, they proved to be the
French Ambassador, M. de Sercy, and his party, with an
1 Irene daughter of the Emperor Maurice, married the Persian King
Kosrou Purviz.

334 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
escort of fifty spearmen, returning from his mission to
Ispahan : we stopped for half an hour's conversation AA'ith
these gentlemen, comparing notes and exchanging neAvs :
they had been furnished AA'ith an escort for the road Ave
had just passed, Avhich is considered unsafe, and AA'hich
Ave told them Avas quite clear at present : they gave us
reason to anticipate very little pleasure from A'isiting
Persia, of AA'hich country they had not a good AVGrd to
say : Ave regretted not having met at a halting-place
during the day, Avhich Avould have been a pleasant break
in such a monotonous journey. This French Embassy,
Avhich Avas sent to Mohammed Shah during our difference
Avith the Persian Government, to establish French influence
at his court, Avas totally unsuccessful, and left a very bad
impression behind them ; the ambassador, disgusted at the
meanness and venality of the Persians, perhaps taking
little pains to conciliate them ; and the Persians in their
arrogance pretending to despise the French, Avere dis
appointed in their expectations of receiving supplies of
money from them. We had heard some reports of their
bad reception AA'hile at Bagdad, and these Avere afterwards
confirmed on our visiting the Shah's camp ; the French
hoAvever disclaimed any care about cultivating the friend
ship of Persia, but said they Avere merely sent out of
compliment by Louis Philippe at the special request of
the Shah's Government, and therefore had no object in
making any sacrifice to curry favour Avith the Persians :
I AA'as glad to hear aftenvards that the Shah had been
very much enraged at the treatment M. Tessier had
received from his Mehmandar Avhen travelling in Persia,
and Avhich had been represented to him by M. de Sercy ;
he had ordered him to be brought from Shiraz in chains,
and it Avas expected that he Avould lose his head, unless
he ransomed it. After marching five farsaks, Ave came
to the village of Ser Pool Zohab in a gorge, through
Avhich the river Avinds out of the mountains : Ave slept in
the A-erandah of a large caravansera Avhich had been turned
into a barrack, and in Avhich Avere a feAv Persian soldiers.

PERSIA. 335
The mounds Avhich occupy this locality arc the remains
of a large ancient city ; the situation is very beautiful,
an amphitheatre of mountains rising all around ; the Ab
Ehvan, a pretty little river, bursting through a bold rocky
gorge and Avinding through the ruins, Avhich in many
places form cliffs overhanging it ; from one of these cliffs
some large square blocks of stone project ; these may have
belonged to a connecting bridge or other building. The
antiquity of this site is confirmed by the various sculptures
on the rocks in its vicinity ; some of these sculptures
are found on the abrupt jaAvs of the gorge, from Avhence
the river emerges : one is a rude representation in bas-
relief of tAvo figures on horseback and one on foot; about
fifty feet above this is another, of an armed figure on one
side, the other side being destroyed by the AA'ater from
above having formed a gully in the face of the scarped
stone ; others are known to exist on the opposite rocks,
but these Ave could not discover. At a second gorge in
the same ridge, tAvo miles to the south, is a square excava
tion, high up on the face of the rock, Avith an outer scarp
on Avhich is sculptured a figure in robes Avith one hand
elevated : this, the natives say, represents David ; and the
the tomb they call Dukkan i Daoud, David's shop ; this
place is held by them in great veneration, and they here
offer voavs and sacrifices.
The inhabitants of the districts betAveen this and Ker
manshah are not Moslem : they are Allaillahi, who
believe in a variety of incarnations ; at Karind they call
themselves Daoudee ; they live in black tents and go by
the name of Ilyat or Avanderers ; the country is fertile,
and they cultivate rice and other grain ; Avhere they are
stationary, they build huts of reeds and wattle. There is
a small village at this place, Avhere passengers are supplied
Avith provisions ; the Ilyats are a robust, fine-looking race,
dressing like the Koords in a light linen dress ; they are
intelligent, Avith a handsome aquiline cast of features. The
ruins are called by these people Kala Afrasiau ; according
to D'Herbelot, there Avere two of this name ; the first of

336 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
these Avas Afrasiab, a Turkish leader and King of Touran
and Transoxiana, Avho conquered Persia in the time of
the ninth sovereign of Assyria of the Pishdadian dynasty.
From this King the Seljukians and the present Turkish
Sultans pretend to derive their descent ; another of the
name Avas conquered and slain by Rostam, son of Zabzer,
general of Kai Kosrou, third of the Kaianian dynasty.1
1 The following notice of this place from Major Rawlinson's ' Researches in
Western Persia,' published in the Journal of the Geographical Society, is
extremely interesting as identifying it Avith the site of the primeval city of
Calah, and also fixing it as the situation of the Samaritan captivity, and
from his long residence in the country, and particular attention to its com
parative geography, his opinions are of great weight and his arguments and
facts appear very convincing.
"The real site of Holwan, one of the eight primeval cities of the world,
Avas at Ser Puli Zohab, eight miles south of the present town ; this is the
Calah of Asshur and the Halah of the Israelitish captivity ; it gave to the
surrounding districts the name of Chalonitis. The etymological identity Is,
I believe, the last claim which Holwan possesses to be considered the
representative of Calah of Asshur, but for its verification as the scene of
the captivity (Samaritan), there are many other curious and powerful
reasons ; Ave find in Strabo that this region along the skirts of the Zagros
v>as sometimes adjudged to Media, and sometimes to Assyria, and Ave are
thus able to explain the dominion of Shalmaneser, the Assyrian King, over
the cities of the Medes. Some of the Christian Arabs in their histories
directly translate the Halah of the captivity by Holwan. Jewish traditions
abound in this part of the country, and David is still regarded by the tribes
as their great tutelar prophet. If the Samaritan captives can be supposed to
have retained to the present day any distinct individuality of character,
perhaps the Kalhur tribe has the best claim to be regarded as their
descendants. The Kalhurs, Avho are believed to have inhabited from the
remotest antiquity these regions around Mount Zagros, preserve in their
name the title of Calah. They state themselves to be descended from
Roham or Nebuchadnezzar, the conqueror of the JeAvs, perhaps an ob
scure tradition of their real origin. They have many Jewish names among
them, and above all their general physiognomy is strongly indicative of
an Israelitish descent. The Ilyat of this tribe now mostly profess Moham
medanism, but a part of them together Avith the Gurans, Avho acknowledge
themselves to be an offset of the Kalhurs, and most of the other tribes
of the neighbourhood, are still of the Ali Ilahi persuasion, a faith which
bears evident marks of Judaism, singularly amalgamated Avith Sabean,
Christian and Mohammedan legends. The tomb of Baba Yadgar in the
pass of Zarda is their holy place, ami this at the time of the Arab
invasion of Persia, Avas regarded as the abode of Elias. The Ali Ilahi
believe in a series of successive incarnations of the Godhead, amounting
to IOOI. Benjamin, Moses, David, Elias, Jesus Christ, Ali and his
tutor, Salman a joint development, the Imam Hussim and the" Hafttan

PERSIA. 337
After examining everything of interest in this locality,
avc passed through the before-mentioned gorge, just above
Avhich the Elwan is joined by a large brook called the
Dierra, the valley of AA'hich avc ascended, and found the
caravan halted in the open plain, the only shelter on
Avhich was the shade of a solitary small mulberry-tree ;
and as there Avere so many Avomen to be accommodated
(seven-bodied), are considered the chief of these incarnations. The Hafttan
were seven Pirs or spiritual guides, who lived in the early ages of Islam, and
each worshipped as the Deity is an object of adoration in some particular
part of Koordistan. Eaba Yadgar was one of these. The whole of the
incarnations are thus regarded as one and the same person, the bodily form
of the divine manifestation being alone changed, but the most perfect
development is supposed to have taken place in the persons of Benjamin,
David and Ali. Benjamin of Tudela seems to haA-e considered the whole
of these Ali Ilahis as JeAvs, and it is possible that in his time their faith may
have been less corrupted.
"The mountains of Huphthan, where he places a hundred synagogues, is
evidently Zagros, the name being borrowed from the Hafttan of the Ali Ilahis,
and he states himself to have found 50,000 families of Jews in the neighbour
hood. Amaria, where the false prophet Messia David Elroi appeared, was
certainly in the district of Holwan. The most curious monument of Holwan
is found at the corner of the upper gorge, about two miles up the valley.
This is a royal sepulchre, excavated in the rock, exactly similar in character
to the tombs of Persepolis : the face of the rock has been scarped to the
height of 70 feet, at which elevation has been excavated a quadrangular
recess 6 feet deep, S high, and 30 Avide ; in the centre of the recess is the
opening into the tomb, which, as in the case of those of Persepolis, has been
forcibly broken in ; the interior is rude, containing on the left-hand side the
place for the deposit of the dead, being a section of the cave divided off by
a Ioav partition about 2 feet high. Outside are the remains of two broken
pillars, which have been formed out of the solid rock, on either side of the
entrance, the base, and a small piece of either shaft, appear below, and the
capitals adhere to the roof of the recess, the centre part of each column have
been destroyed.
"Upon the smooth face of the rock, below the cave, is an unfinished
tablet. The figure of a Mubidar high priest of the Magi appears standing,
with one hand raised in the act of benediction and the other grasping a scroll,
which I conclude represents the sacred leaves of the Zend Avesta; he is
clothed in his pontifical robe, and Avears the square pointed cap and lappets
covering the mouth, described by Hyde as the most ancient dress of the
priests of Zoroaster. There is a vacant space in the tablet, apparently
intended for the fire altar, before the priest. This tomb is named by the
Ali Ilahis Dukkan i Daoud, or David's shop, for the Jewish monarch is
believed by them to have followed the calling of a smith ; the broken shafts
are called his anvils, and the part of the tomb which is divided off by the
low partition is supposed to be the reservoir to contain the Avater for tempering

33§ FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
without being exposed to the public gaze, there Avas
plenty of quarrelling for this slight shelter : Ave left at
four in the evening ; the dry grass in the A'alley and on
the hills Avas SAvarming Avith the uncouth mantis, and the
SAvord-tailed grasshopper. The narroAV valley of the Dierra
has a very peculiar appearance, running betAveen two
opposing ridges of stratified rocks, Avhich have been
formerly connected, they so exactly correspond, but have
been burst asunder in some early convulsion of the
earth's surface ; toAvards the head of the valley, Avhere
the road enters the mountains, the scenery is fine, the
stream rushing down through borders of green avHIoavs,
behind Avhich the rocky cliffs spring up to a great
height, the slopes studded Avith evergreen oaks. Before
dark AA'e began ascending the steep pass OA'er the
Zagros, the stream losing itself in a precipitous gorge
to the right, at the entrance of Avhich AA'ere the ruins of
a caravansera, called Tak i Garra ; the defile AA'e AA'ere
tra\'ersing increased in grandeur as Ave advanced, entering
Avoods of dark oak, which hung from the decliA'ities and
crevices in the cliffs, both above and beloAv us ; the road
Avas artificial, an unusual thing in the East, and, Avhere it
the rrietal. David is really believed by the Ali Ilahis to dwell here, though
invisible, and the smithy is consequently regarded by them as a place of
extreme sanctity. I never passed by this tomb Avithout seeing the remains
of a bleeding sacrifice, and the old Ali Ilahis, who come here on pilgrimages
from all parts of Koordistan, Avill prostrate themselves on the ground, and
make the most profound reverence immediately they come near the spot.
In connexion with the Samaritan captivity, I regard this superstitious venera
tion for David and the offering of Kurbans, or sacrifices at his supposed
shrine, as a very curious subject.
"There can be no question, I must observe, about Ser Pool Zohab being
the real site of Holwan. The Oriental itineraries and geographical notices are
quite decisiA'e upon this point, the ruins themselves bear certain evidence,
and the spot is still known by some of the Kurds by the very title of Shari
Holwan (the city of Holwan). Hohvan continued a large and populous
town long after the Arab invasion of Persia. It Avas often partially
destroyed in ' the conflicts of the Abasside Kaliphate, but it again rose
from its ruins, and it. was not until the visiting of the desolating hordes
of Hulaku in their descent on Bagdad in 1258, that it received its final
bloAv and sank before the exterminating hand of war never again to be
inhabited."

PERSIA.

339

Avinds along the face of the precipices, had been built up
AA'ith massive blocks of stone. High up on the mountain
Ave passed the ruins of a substantial arch of Avhite marble
in a romantic spot and commanding a vieAv of the subjacent
valleys : it may probably have served as a toll-house for
the road. As the darkness increased, our path became
very dangerous, the horses slipping and plunging along the
broken road overhanging the precipices : I never felt more
than on this night the painful difficulty of preventing
myself from falling asleep on horseback ; although alive
to the conviction that a false step AA'ould send me rolling
doAvn a descent about thirty or forty degrees from the
perpendicular, I found it utterly impossible to keep
my eyes open for any length of time, and Avas carried
to the end of the march - more asleep than aAvake :
on plains Avhere the road is straight and your horse
requires little urging, you soon become accustomed to
sleeping in the saddle without any danger of falling, the
body soon suiting itself to this somnequitation, and
maintaining its equilibrium. After eight hours Ave passed
a ruined caravansera and village, called Suri Dcser, in
a defile, partially wooded, and soon aftenvards reached
the caravansera of Kirind.
June 28.— The large village of Kirind, composed of
about 1000 houses, inhabited by Daoudee, before men
tioned, is in a most lovely situation in a mountain
gorge, richly Avooded with vineyards, and gardens on its
slopes ; beloAV, the trees are principally poplar and mul
berry, but as you advance Up the pass, wherever there
is any footing for the soil, stately Avalnut and plane
trees cast their shade over the houses Avhich line the
rocks on either side ; precipitous crags, and picturesque,
ragged, and jutting rocks, froAA'n above the defile, and
contribute to the coolness and seclusion of the place.
DoAvn this valley Aoavs a clear mountain-stream, rushing
through the village and over the rocks in numerous
shoots and torrents, forming an enchanting scene ; higher
up, the valley opens, and the ground is entirely laid

34° FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
out in gardens, mixed Avith fruit-trees, the verdant valley
Avatcred by abundant streams, looking more beautiful
from the contrast of the naked perpendicular crags that
enclose it, and the lofty barren peaks that rise in
the background. About a mile from the plain, at an
elevation of 500 feet, is the source of the stream, over-
floAving from a clear tank or basin 30 feet square ; the
AA'ater is distributed in channels through the gardens,
and, re-uniting after precipitating itself through the vil
lage, Avhere it turns several mills, it Avaters and fertilizes
the subjacent districts. A small white rose here groAvs
Avild, and the gardens abounded Avith roses, lupins, and
other floAvers. The houses are built of burnt and sun-
dried bricks, and run up the cliffs on either side, one
above the other ; they are rather substantial, and the
people seem in good circumstances ; the men are mus
cular and well-made, and the Avomen, Avho do not veil
or exhibit any alarm at strangers, are tolerably Avell
looking. June 20. — We marched last night at tAvelve, and in the
morning Avere traversing Avooded hills and slopes clothed
with dAvarf oak, and descended into a verdant plain over-
groAvn Avith liquorice, and studded Avith the camps of the
Ilyat, composed of square huts covered Avith boughs. Five
farsaks or seven hours brought us to Haroonabad, a large
village of mud huts, AA'ith scarcely any inhabitants; a muddy
stream, lined Avith a feAv stunted Aviilows, floAved by in front
of the caravansera : the surrounding country is fertile, and
a great many horses are bred here ; they are a small
race, but seemed to possess some spirit. The Ilyat from
the camps, seeing the arrival of the caravan, brought a
number of horses for sale, asking from £$ to £j : they
Avere an insolent set, and Ave had some difficulty in avoid
ing annoyance from their curiosity and intrusion ; Ave saAv
in the possession of one of these peasants a portefeuille,
belonging to a Frenchman attached to the Embassy, Avhich
they alloAved us to examine : it contained various papers
of little consequence and a passport : AA'ishing to return

PERSIA.

341

it to the OAvncr, avc offered to redeem it ; but the man,
imagining it AA-as of great value, demanded a sum it Avas
not in our power to give under the circumstances, and aa-c
directed him to take it to Kermanshah. We Ave re obliged
to be A-ery determined with these people, to check their
intrusiveness, the reason for AA'hich Ave aftenvards found
out to be the unsettled state of the country; the people
being ripe for an outbreak among themselves, from some
cause of quarrel existing betAveen the tAvo Ilyat tribes of
the Guran and Kalhur, Avhich subsequently ended in open
hostilities; the former numbering 6000, the latter 12,000
men. We marched at 9 in the evening, the road gradually
becoming more rock)- and difficult : in the middle of
the night, after ascending a steep ridge, Ave had to descend
a perfect ladder of rocks ; the starlight Avas extremely
brilliant, affording sufficient light to enable us to avoid
the worst clangers of this perilous road ; but the con
fusion from the falling of horses and mules with their
loads among the stones, and the screams of the Avomen,
AA'as A'ery great : this spot Avould have formed a splendid
station for a band of plunderers.
In the morning after a tedious ride of six farsaks, the
peak of Kermanshah rose high in the east ; and Ave passed

S'

%

"<5»V

Kermanshah.

342 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
a bridge over a muddy stream, and halted at Moidesht
caravansera; this is a large village of mud bricks, like-
Avise deserted. The temperature has become very mild
and pleasant.
On the ist July, Ave marched at I in the morning
four farsaks to the toAvn of Kermanshah, just as the sun
Avas rising above the bold peak that appears to froAvn
over the town, although several miles from it. The vieAv
was very beautiful : the toAvn, which has rather a dingy
appearance, Avith its flat mud houses, being surrounded
by gardens and treess in a fertile holloAv, backed by noble
mountains : the gardens abound in apricots, nectarines,
peaches, morella cherries, and mulberries ; Ave bought
apricots 70 for a shilling ; but I was struck with the
Avant of spires or minarets, Avhich ought to have found
their place in the vieAv ; I Avas told that, OAving to the
jealousy of the Persians, they had been pulled doAvn
and forbidden, as they commanded a vieAv of the interior
of their houses ; it strikingly illustrated a remark I have
read, of a toAvn Avithout a spire being like a face Avithout
a nose. The temperature Avas about 95° Avhich was cool
after Bagdad, and here I first saAv fireflies.
Anticipating a little in my opinion of Persia, I am not
noAV surprised at the praises that have been lavished on
this country by their poets and other Avriters, AA-hose
imagery has been copied by us, and tended to dissemi
nate a false impression Avith respect to it even among
Europeans. After traversing desolate and dreary tracts,
Avhich sink the spirit to the loAvest ebb ; Avhen Ave come
suddenly on one of these beautiful valleys, full of pellucid
streams and tOAvering trees, the contrast is so striking
and delightful, that it is naturally described in the most
gloAving colours, and its beauties expatiated on and ex
aggerated, ' by being seen through the false medium of a
comparison Avith the surrounding deserts ; and thus, from
individual localities, a false judgment is formed of the
country in general : I have myself often felt the force
of this delusion ; but, after crossing the barren mountains

PERSIA. 343
of Persia Proper, and the salt deserts of Khorassan, I am
forced to the conclusion, that, although the Aveary travellcr
often finds spots of surpassing fertility and beauty, the
country in general is drear)', ungrateful, and barren.
As Ave entered Kermanshah, men Avere bloAving long
horns on the roofs of the baths, to let the inhabitants
knoAv that they Avere ready for the bathers : Ave quartered
in a caravansera, Avhere we were besieged by smoke-
vendors and barbers ; the former hiring Avater- pipes,
seA-eral of Avhich they carry slung round them, Avith
tobacco bags and the necessary paraphernalia ; the latter
carry a pouch stuffed Avith razors, soap and instruments,
and give you notice of their presence by putting a
looking-glass in your hand. Another great convenience
here are the cook-shops, from Avhence we procured an
excellent dinner of several dishes, steAvs and cabab, with
a large boAvl of sherbet made of pomegranate syrup, with
lumps of ice floating in it : in large toAvns in Persia
ice is kept in ice-houses during the summer, and sold in
the bazaars extremely cheap ; it is only used for cooling
fruit beverages, as they do not understand the process
of making ices as in Europe. Like other Eastern toAvns,
Kermanshah possesses extensive covered bazaars ; the
shops here hoAvever are on a larger scale. The people
are rather a small race, Avith SAvarthy complexions and
long black beards, of lively dispositions, Avith a great
fund of rascality.
We had found great difficulty in hiring or buying horses,
which detained us tAvo or three days. I had anticipated
the possibility of our being prevented passing through
Persia, all English subjects having left the country : and
here the first obstacles to our progress began to make
themselves evident. We had tried to avoid the authorities;
but the Khan or Sirdar of the toAvn noAV sent his Secretary
to pay a visit of inspection, when Ave made excuses for not
having Avaited on the Governor, proposing to visit him on
the folloAving day, Avhich seemed to give satisfaction : the
Secretary was very friendly and polite, which Avas more

344 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
than AA'e could say of his suite ; for he had no sooner taken
his departure, than Ave missed a pair of Bagdad riding
boots ; Ave Avere not long in discovering the guilty party,
an apparently respectable old man, AA'ith a reverend beard ;
on being brought back, he sAvore to his innocence, and
invoked curses on his OAvn head, if he had taken the
property, and proposed our making further search, during
Avhich he succeeded in replacing the boots ; although
vexed at his impudence, AA'e could not help smiling at
his ingenuity, and dismissed him Avith a little good advice.
The next day Ave paid a visit to the Governor or Sirdar
of the toAvn, Avho Avas a heaA-y, sullen-looking man, and
not overcourteous ; Ave exhibited our passports, the pur
port of Avhich Ave had caused to be translated into Persian
at Bagdad, and certified by the Resident ; he seemed
satisfied Avith this, and asked us if Ave \A-ere going to see
the Shah : it had not been our intention to visit the
Court, for fear of detention : but, perceiving that Ave should
ultimately be obliged to take this step, Ave professed our
intention of having the honour of seeing the light of
the Shah's countenance; by this means Ave avoided any
compulsory measures, and facilitated procuring horses,
the onus of AA'hich Ave immediately transferred to the
Governor, by AA'hose authority aac AA'ere soon enabled to
hire them. In the meantime the Governor said he Avould
despatch a courier to the Shah, Avho Avas camped at
Nahawand, about six days' journey off, for instructions.
On our return to the caravansera, a man Avas sent to
remain with us, nominally to assist and protect us, but
really as a spy to prevent our departure and Avatch our
movements. The next day our Persian servant came and
informed us that the Cabool Moonshee, Abderahman, Avho
had accompanied us from Bagdad, had been injuring us
Avith the people, by telling the Governor's Secretary that
Ave Avere English agents, distributing money, and intriguing
in favour of the banished Persian princes at Bagdad, and
that Ave Avere on our Avay to Shiraz, to facilitate the
march of the English troops on that place from Karack

PERSIA.

345

in the Persian Gulf; on being confronted Avith his ac
cuser, the Cabooli denied the accusation, although the
Persian maintained it to his face : I was conscious that
all the Persians Avere liars ; at the same time I kneAV the
Moonshee to be an indefatigable talker, and I had often
been AA-arncd against his indiscreet communications to the
people ; one thing, howcA'er, was certain, that reports
had got abroad to our detriment, upon Avhich it Avas
necessary to come to an explanation immediately, as
Avell as to put an end to the state of suspense and sur
veillance in AA'hich we found ourselves so unpleasantly
situated. We had found here an old servant of Dr. Ross's
of Bagdad, an inhabitant of Louristan ; he Avas an honest,
obliging fello\A', and spoke Arabic as AA'ell as Persian ;
enlisting his assistance as an interpreter, Ave proceeded
to the house of the Sirdar, Avho Avas sitting in durbar,
AA'ith all the principal people assembled round the room,
and the courtyard croAA'ded Avith guards and attendants :
our interpreter, having no fear of the authorities, delivered
exactly Avhat Ave told him to say ; after complaining of
our detention, the accusations Avhich had been laid to
our charge; and their general Avant_of hospitality and
courtesy toAvards us, AA'hen AA'e had come openly as
Englishmen and strangers, Avithout disguise or cause for
suspicion ; AA'e demanded to be alloAA'ed to proceed Im
mediately to the camp of Mohammed Shah, Avhere Ave
could obtain a royal firman for travelling in Persia :
astonished at the high tone of our remonstrances, the
Sirdar denied having Avished to detain us ; and said that
a Serbaus should be in readiness to accompany us on
the morroAV to KengOAvar, Avhere the Shah was expected
to arrive in a feAV days; this place Avas conA'enient for
us, being on our road, and three days' march from here,
and Ave returned to the caravansera, Avell satisfied with
the result of our visit. We parted company AA'ith the
Moonshee, Avho persisted in asserting his innocence and
accused the Persian of> falsehood, but Ave could not con
sider him a safe companion. On returning to my room,

346

FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.

I took a clean shirt from my saddle-bags, and Avas in
the act of putting it on, Avhen I fortunately discovered
a scorpion three inches long inside it ; these reptiles are
A'cry abundant here.
There are some remarkable sculptures about five miles
N.E. of Kermanshah, at a spot called Talc i Bostan, on
the North face of the high rocky mountain of Besitoon :
these curious sculptures are in a beautiful situation, Avhere
copious streams of clear, icy-cold Avater gush from under
the foot of the mountain, and, forming a small river, rush
doAvn through the trees and gardens that line its banks,
to join the Karasoo, Avhich Ave forded between this place
and the toAvn.

Tak i Bostax.

The sculptures consist of tAvo deep alcoves and a tablet
on the scarped face of the cliff: the first of these is
40 feet high and 30 feet deep ; on the back Avail of this
recess, and just attached to it, is a colossal equestrian
figure, in a coat of mail, carrying a spear and shield ;

PERSIA.

347

the horse's nose and one of its legs are broken off,
and from the cantle of the saddle hang the large
horsehair Avhisks \A-hich are used at the present day to
keep off the flies ; sculptured in relief over the cornice
above this statue are three colossal figures, the centre
one clothed in a tunic and crowned Avith a tiara and
plumes : on the left is a female figure in floAving drapery,
holding an urn, or vase, and, on the right, a male figure,
Avith the ancient Persian round Avig : on either side of
this back Avail is a slender pilaster, Avith capital rudely
imitating the Corinthian, AA'ith a toav of vine-leaves along
the cornice. The side Avails of this alcove are elaborately

designed and sculptured, representing hunting scenes,
without any regard to perspective ; on the right side is a
stag hunt, in several compartments, or successive scenes ;
first are seen herds of deer, driven through barriers by
men on elephants ; then comes the chief personage, on
horseback, three times the size of any of his suite ; an
umbrella is carried over his head, and bands of musicians
are playing by his side, AA'hile he transfixes the game
Avith his arroAA's ; in the last scene the horsemen are
pursuing the scattered deer, some are lying about dead,
and others are being carried aAA'ay on the backs of camels.

34

FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.

The wall on the left side represents a boar hunt : elephants
arc seen driA'ing the pigs from the marshes in SAvarms,
AAhile the Chief and his attendants, embarked in boats,
shoot them AA'ith bows and arroAvs as they pass ; some

of the boats are full of Avomen playing on harps : in
one place elephants are killing pigs Avith their trunks : in
another is a map-lake full of fish ; the AA'hole being a
confused mass of hundreds of hogs, men and elephants
on one side ; and men, deer, horses, and camels on the
other; notAvithstanding this Avant of arrangement of the
whole, the details are most minutely sculptured, even to
the floAA'ers and embroidery on the Avomen's
dresses, the hair on the pigs, the foliage and
Avater, Avhich are all most elaborately ex
ecuted. The sides of the outer round arch arc
ornamented Avith staves, AA-reathed AA'ith leaves
and vines, and above it are tAvo draped figures
\a ith broad Avings, in rather superior style, Avith
a half-moon over the centre betAAeen them.
We found here a French artist, M. Flandin, who had
been left behind by the Embassy for the purpose of taking
drawings of these sculptures for the Academie ; he had
pitched his tent in the interior of the alcove for the con
venience of his Avork : AA'e were mutually pleased at meet
ing, and aac remained and dined Avith him : he had already
succeeded in copying the AA'hole of the Cuneiform inscrip
tions at Besitoon, and Avas far advanced in his present
work. The second, and smaller alcove, contained tAA'o
Sassanian figures in bas-relief, on cither side of AA'hich

PERSIA. 349
AA'as a Pehlcvi inscription, which has been translated by
De Sacy, the antiquary, that on the right : — '' Celui
dont Aoici la figure est l'adoratcur d'Ormusd, l'cxcellcnt
Sapor roi des rois d'Iran ct d'Aniran, germe celeste de
la race des dieux, fils de l'adoratcur d'Ormusd l'cxcellcnt.
Hormuz roi des rois d'Iran ct d'Aniran, germe celeste
de la race des dieux, petit fils de l'cxcellcnt Narses, roi
des rois." The other inscription is in a similar style,
and is inscribed to Vahraran (or Baharam), son of the
former. The third sculpture, to the right of these, is a
tablet on the face of the rock, with three figures in relief :
one of these has a glory round the head ; the second is
presenting a vase to the third ; they are standing on
one or more prostrate figures. Just beyond this are tAA'o.
Ioav brick arches, built under the rock, serving for outlets
to the large body of Avater that issues from this part of
the mountain ; lying by the side of the water is the trunk
of a large statue of a female, of AA'hite stone : this may
have been the statue of Semiramis mentioned by historians,
and so often sought for in vain. Above the principal
alcove the rock has been cut aAvay to form a crenellated
wall, and a beaten pathway leads up the mountain to
the right of the springs ; but, after ascending this to some
height, it became indistinct, and finally lost among the
crags, Avithout conducting to anything of interest.
Our compulsory visit to the camp of the Shah Avould
at any rate afford us the advantage of seeing more of
his court and army, although there was a possibility of
our being sent back to Bagdad, or even detained as spies ;
but Ave soon forgot this, in the excitement of being once
more on the road, and relieved from the pressure of our
present detention ; there would be time enough when it
actually occurred to alter our plans, or strike out a neAv
route. We started at sunset on July 6th, and had a moonlight
ride of five farsaks, Avinding through picturesque mountains,
Avhich, under the pallid light, had an ever-changing and
beautiful effect ; Ave stopped at the caravansera at Besitoon,

350 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
in a valley at the foot of a stupendous perpendicular cliff
springing up to the height of 1000 feet, and seeming to
impend over us in majestic grandeur. The caravansera Avas
closed, and, failing to aAvaken any of the inmates by
shouting, avc attempted to remove the doors, AA'hich Avere
massiA'e, and resisted our efforts to raise them or move
the bolts ; at length our noise succeeded in raising the
khanji, Avho had fixed on an extraordinary situation for
passing the night ; the entrance of a caravansera is formed
by a large gateAvay, containing rooms on either side in
tAvo stories, and is croAvned by a dome ; in imitation of
the storks, I suppose, which often build their nests in
such situations, the khanji had placed his bed on the apex
of the dome, for the sake of coolness ; it Avas a most pre
carious situation for any man given to indulging in good
suppers, or a somnambulist, as any extra restlessness Avould
have been folloAved by a rotatory descent into the court
yard or the road ; having persuaded him to descend from
his elevation, Ave gained admittance to the interior, Avhere
Ave passed the night.
The next day Ave Avent out to explore the antiquities
of the place : the first thing AA'e saw on passing through
the feAV hovels, Avhich Avere half in ruins, near the
caraA'ansera, Avas a Sassanian capital of a column, on
two sides of Avhich Avere sculptured in relief figures
similar in form and dress to the centre figure over the
cornice in the centre alcove of Tak-i-Bostan ; the other
sides are ornamented Avith foliage; the loAver part of the
cliff has been scarped to a great height, apparently for
the back Avail of some extensive building, Avhich probably
formerly existed, or at any rate Avas partly finished, as
the materials are lying at the foot of the cliff in great
abundance, consisting principally of massive blocks of
heAvn stone ; a Avail of the same surrounds a large terraced
space on Avhich the building stood, and the declivity of
the mounds as- Avell as the Avhole space round the foot
of the mountain is piled with square blocks much time-
Avorn, but in the centre of many of Avhich a letter or sign

PERSIA. 351
is apparent ; the caravansera is built from these ruins
and the stones have also these signs, which, hoAvever,
do not appear to belong to any alphabet, and haA'c little
or no resemblance to those seen at Al Ilaclr in the desert,
although of the same square character ; some of them Avere
as folloAvs .£7 2> ^yC^^°~r'J- The first sign Avas on a
stone in the ruins, the others in the caravansera. The
only sculpture on the scarp Avas a single female mask ;
from the foot of the rock the foundation of a massive
Avail runs doAvn across the plain to the vicinity of the
caravansera ; not having sufficient time for searching old
authors, I leave it to those AA'ho are interested in the
subject to decide on the origin and use of this building,
Avhich, from the appearance of the ruins, notAvithstanding
the existence of the Sassanian capital, I should imagine
to have existed prior to the rule of this dynasty, and was
probably a palace of the Kianian monarchs.
Turning the angle of the cliff to the east, Ave came in
front of an artificially scarped surface ; at a great height,
on AA'hich are rudely sculptured in relief a toav of eleven
figures : the principal of these, behind AA'hom are tAvo
Avarriors Avith boAvs, wears a long beard and full wig, AA'ith.
one foot planted on a prostrate supplicant Avith uplifted
hands, Avhile before him are eight more, with their hands
tied behind them. On the left hand of these are three
tablets of arroAV-headed inscriptions, and four more under
neath, consisting of about a thousand lines : there are some
smaller inscriptions on the field of the sculptured tablet,
but the height prevents their being easily distinguished :
part of the Avriting appears to have been injured by Avater,
and it is difficult to approach the spot, except with long
ladders or scaffolding, as it AA'ould seem that after the
AA-ork Avas finished, the loAver part of the rock had been
cut aAvay to prevent access to it ; this sculpture has
been supposed by some to represent the Persian King
Shapoor and the Emperor Valerian, Avith the Romans
as prisoners ; by others, Nebuchadnezzar, Avith JeAA'ish
prisoners.

35 2 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
A little beyond this is a small spring of Avater, issuing
from under the rocks, above Avhich are the remains of
some colossal Greek sculptures, the figures are very much
dilapidated, and the inscriptions nearly effaced: these few
disconnected fragments can be deciphered : the centre
AAOAZATHZMNOPATHZriEr
mTAPZHCSATPAnHZ TONZATPAn
mTAPZHC rEonoepoz
of the tablet has been smoothed aAA'ay to give place to
a large Arabic inscription of a modern date. Over a
spring, among a feAv avUIoavs, I saAv a slab carved AA'ith
foliage and a Cufic inscription.
Inscriptions in the Cuneiform, or arroAv-headed charac
ter are very numerous in Persia ; attempts have been
made to translate them, but as yet Avith doubtful suc
cess. Colonel Taylor, the Resident at Bagdad, Avho is
one of the first of our Oriental scholars, put no faith in
the pretended translations that had been made public,
and Avas sceptical as to the inscriptions being ever eluci
dated. It is true that an expert in cypher can Avork out
the alphabet of any language he is acquainted AA'ith ; but
Avith Oriental languages, not only are there letters AA'hich
have no equiAalents in Western languages, but there is no
division of Avords, no punctuation, and a variety of signs
or points added to the letters ; but admitting that the
alphabet is discoA'ered, and admitting that the Avords are
disentangled, the next question is, What is the language?
Assuming that it is a cognate language to the Arabic and
HebreAv, the interpreters haA'c had recourse to the Arabic
Lexicon, Arabic being the oldest Oriental language that
avc arc acquainted Avith. There is one thing in their
favour, that they can trade on the ignorance of the public,
for Avhatever translation they may put forth, no one is
capable of proving a negative, and boldness of assertion
usually insures belief, especially Avhen the majority have
a laudable desire to accept any and everything that

PERSIA.

353

appears like an illustration or corroboration of Biblical
history.1 We had been joined by part of our former caravan,
among Avhom Avas the Loor avIio had stood interpreter
for us Avith the Governor : he Avas canying some English
double guns to the camp on speculation, and had, besides,
some loads of a sort of sugar, made of honey-deAA-, Avhich
is produced on the leaves of an oak groAving in the
Koordistan mountains : it is formed into large masses
of a green colour, and has a flavour of green tea ; it is
much used in Persia for making HelloAva and SAveetmeats.
The mountain-wall of Besitoon looked very commanding
in the moonlight, and the discharges from the guns and
pistols of some of the party re-echoed from its surface
in thundering reverberations ; we crossed a bridge of five
arches over a river called by the people Chamchamal,
and on the other side of a plain overgroAvn with liquorice,
We came to an abrupt rocky ridge, forming a breastAvork
across the valley; a massive Avail, of great length, croAvn-
ing this ridge, is called the rampart of Nadir Shah.
He is said to have gained here a victory over the Turks,
his artillery and archers being stationed on this wall,
Avhich is seen running up the hills on the right and left.
In the plain on the opposite side Ave lost ourselves among
marshes and AA'ater-courses, and, after wandering up and
doAvn for some time, at last found a bridge over a stream,
and a high road, Avhich brought us in the morning to
Sanna : beyond this stream we passed a castle on a hill,
called Kala Saguss.
July 8. — Sanna, five farsaks from Besitoon, is a large
1 I copied what follows from a review of Gliddon's Antiquities — "The
synchronism Avhich exists between the scriptural annals and the monuments
of E<Tpt cannot be traced earlier than 971 B.C. The earliest is Shishak, in
the time of Rehoboam, and, indeed, as the Bible does not mention by name
the earlier sovereigns of Egypt, there is little probability of more being
identified." A very suspicious fact, and which may be applied to the Assyrian
inscriptions, where, if the names and histories had not been found in the Bible,
they Avould never have been discovered in the inscriptions.
I leave this as it was Avritten, although inclined to modify it in the light
of later researches and discoveries. 1883.
vot.. r. 23

354 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
mud village surrounded by gardens, watered by streams,
and encircled by picturesque mountain-peaks : Ave passed
the day in a caravansera, and marched at sunset through
a Avinding pass in the hills, and in the morning Ave passed
the massive ruins of a bridge. This defile Avas almost im
passable in the reign of Fath Ali Shah, being infested by
robbers : arrived at KangOAvar (Concobar), a good-sized
toAvn in a fine situation, in the declivity of the hills ; to
the S.E. extended fertile plains, and, beyond, rose barren
mountains, streaked with snow. The principal object of
interest here is the ruin of the temple of Anaitis, built
by Semiramis : on the side facing the street is a basement
of large blocks of heAvn stone (one of Avhich measured
17 feet by 3 feet 8 inches), on which stand the loAver
part of the shafts of eight enormous columns and a
pilaster ; the area of the temple is filled up with mud
houses, and a mosque is built at the North side of it :
the declivity of the hill toAvards the plain is streAved Avith
broken pillars and debris. It Avas not till after our
departure from this place that we heard of an inscribed
stone, which is considered sacred, being preserved in
the mosque, covered with earth, or plaster, and strictly
guarded : from the description of it by a man who had
seen it, and Avho made an outline of the stone on paper,
it Avould seem to be Cufic, but it would be Avorth the
inspection of any future traveller, as there Avould be little
difficulty in obtaining a vieAv of it.
The toAvn was all in commotion, from the expected
arrival of the Shah, and we found some difficulty in pro
curing shelter in a khan : the inhabitants were collecting
in croAvds, the tops of the houses being crowded Avith
Avomen, to indulge their curiosity, and see the entry
of the Shah : Serbaus galloping about Avith orders, and
the authorities running to and fro to provide accom
modation and supplies for the coming troops. Soon after
sunrise the Shah arrived, Avith an army of 13,000 men :
the Shah himself took up his quarters In a small castle
on a hill outside the town, Avhich had been prepared for

PERSIA. 355
him, Avhile the different employes pitched their camps
in the gardens, wherever they could find a convenient
locality : the troops spread over the plain beloAV, AA'hich
Avas quickly covered Avith their tents and cattle, the horses
being picquetcd in the fields of grain and clover, and
the baggage-mules driven in herds to graze.
I here had an opportunity of Avitnessing the effect of
the march of an irregular army : this fine plain, Avhich
I had looked on In the morning covered with vineyards,
gardens, and fields of standing corn, in the evening AA'as
a barren plain, the vineyards trampled doAvn, the gardens
stripped, and every trace of verdure sAvept aAvay Avith
locust-like rapidity : the land Avas as the garden of Eden
before them, and, behind them, a desolate Avilderness.
We soon found that it would be no very easy matter
to obtain permission to pass through Persia at the present
juncture. We might have attempted to travel without
a firman, but it Avould have been attended Avith great
difficulty and even danger, as the sequel will shoAV : Ave
were detained three weeks in the camp as spies, and
although eventually alloAved to proceed, had to abandon
the route through Yezd and Seistan to Kandahar.
But before proceeding, I must first give some idea of the
people Ave had to deal with : I may have been suspected
of taking too favourable a vieAv of some of the people
among whom I have been throAvn, and I hope this will
insure me the credit of impartiality, where my opinion
must be the reverse of praise. I believe the reason that
the information of former travellers, as Chardin and others,
has not been relied on, is that we are loth to credit that
any nation can be so bad as they describe the Persians,
who thus acquire a sort of immunity on account of their
extreme vileness, which, I grant, it is difficult to under
stand by those Avho have not knoAvn them. The present
Persians are the vilest race that ever were collected into
a nation; to giA'e their character in detail, I should
have to submit to the revolting task of enumerating every
vice that disgraces humanity: I have even challenged

356 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
persons who Avere prepossessed in their favour to mention
one single good point in their character, but in vain ;
unlike the old Persians, of whom it is recorded that
they never told an untruth, these people find their greatest
pleasure in lying gratuitously, Avithout the prospect of
adA'antage to be gained by it ; they have not even the
virtue of savages, hospitality. I have heard their polite
ness and courtesy spoken of, but it has been either by
ambassadors, or men in situations Avhich brought them
in contact Avith men actuated by self-interest or fear,
and then they are basely servile ; but Avhere they have
no end to gain, or inducement to duplicity, they are
insolent and disobliging. I do not say that there are
not some individual exceptions to this description, for I
have met Avith some feAv myself, but not sufficient to alter
or soften the deep dye of the general mass. The Persians
have imagined to imitate European powers by calling
their second Vizier " Minister for Foreign Affairs," he
hoAvever is a mere clerk of the Chief Vizier Hadji Meerza
Aghassi. The Vizier acting for Foreign Affairs, Meerza
Ali, Avas a young man about twenty, holding the situation
in the absence of his father, Meerza Massoud, who had
been sent to Khorassan on business. We Avaited on
Meerza Ali, to Avhom Ave exhibited our papers, and trust
ing in the good faith of a person in his situation, at his
request left them in his hands, A'ery foolishly, as will
hereafter appear ; we had no difficulty in communicating
Avith him, as he spoke French fluently, and his secretary
Avas a Frenchman born in Persia ; he promised to exert
himself to procure us firmans for traversing Persia, and
assist us as much as lay in his poAver, in the meantime
we were to follow the march of the army, till our business
Avas settled : at this time Ave Avere not aAvare of the
value of Persian promises, and thought we had a fair
chance of success. We called on the Hakim Bashi,
Meerza Baba, Avho had been five years in England ; he
is obliged to attend the Shah daily, besides having
numberless patients at his house, and from Avhom I do

PERSIA. 357
not suppose he receives many fees except in presents :
when aac AA-ere sitting Avith him, these Avere continually
coming in, principally consisting of sugar, SAveetmeats,
and fruit : the Hakim sent us some supplies, and was
very obliging. We met here another Persian, Meerza
Reza, Avho had been in England to study fortification,
etc. ; he had not attained much proficiency in the art, and
on one occasion Avas nearly losing his head, Avhen Abbas
Meerza Avas Shah : the Shah having asked his opinion
on a point pertaining to the fortification of some place,
he proposed to go for his book ; the Shah naturally
observing that Avith a book he could tell as Avell himself,
and did not require to pay him for his assistance, ordered
him to die the death, from Avhich he narroAA-ly escaped.
As soon as you cross the Persian frontier, coffee is no
longer in use, the national beverage being black tea,
SAveetened, but without milk ; the Avater-pipe is in most
common use, but is not so annoying as smoking in other
countries, Avhere the fumigation is continuous ; here they
never take more than four or five AAmiffs ; the pipes are
handsomely ornamented, in the same style as in Syria;
they are called Kallian, Avhich name in Syria is given to
the long cherry-stick pipe.
July 10. — One year from London. We marched Avith
the troops at 7 A.M. across the plains in the direction
of Hamadan, passing over several low ridges of hills ;
three farsaks to Minderabad, a high mound surrounded
by a Ioav mud Avail AA'ith bastions and Avatered by
springs ; the plain from here to Saadabad, tAvo farsaks
farther, at the foot of the Ehvand, where the army
encamped, was covered with villages surrounded by
orchards and vineyards ; Saadabad was in the centre
of a large tract of plantations inclosed in high mud
walls ; a fine mountain rivulet, oAving to no pre
caution being taken to protect it, Avas soon so trampled
and spoilt as to be useless for drinking, and Ave Avere
obliged to send half Avay up to the source to procure
clean water ; for a long distance the stream had the

358 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
appearance of a thread of honey besieged by flies or
ants, from the numbers of men and cattle that thronged
it. Before reaching the place Ave were struck with the
extraordinary appearance of the dust, acted on by the
eddies of wind at the foot of the hills, forming Avhat
might be called dust spouts : these were columns of dust
rising several thousand feet perpendicular till their tops
Avere literally lost in the clouds ; there Avere ahvays several
around us in different directions at the same time, although
there Avas scarcely any air or Avind in the plain on Avhich
their bases rested and across Avhich they sloAvly moved,
sometimes bending as they came within the influence of
an upper current, they were of irregular form and size
from 10 to 40 feet in diameter, then dAvindling to a thread
as they broke up and disappeared.
The Shah's army is attended by 30 field-pieces, badly
harnessed and served, and 60 or 70 Zamburek, camel
artillery ; these are small SAvivel guns mounted on a
Avooden block in front of the camel's saddle, behind
Avhich the gunner is seated, a large scarlet flag hanging
from a staff at the back of the saddle; they are besides
ornamented Avith rings, tassels and bells, and have a
picturesque effect ; among the so-called regular troops
there are some fine men, but they have no sort of order
or discipline ; they Avear a hybrid sort of uniform, a blue
jacket and full trousers to the knee, Avith a pouch and
musket ; the cavalry are all irregular, under their OAvn
different heads of tribes ; in fact, some of the foot regi
ments are commanded by men who have raised them
entirely from their own tenants ; the commissariat seemed
very well managed, the provisions being carried on strings
of large strong mules, which were ahvays on the ground,
and the bazaars erected, long before the arrival of the
troops. The soldier's pay is 15 sab-crons or shillings a
month, for horse, and 10 for foot ; the Government, hoAV-
ever, are not very regular in their payments, and it some
times happens that the Colonel has to find funds to pay his
own corps. The present army was nominally raised for the

PERSIA.

359

purpose of putting cIoavii a sedition at Ispahan, Avhere the
Sheik el Islam, Avith a band of Lutis, had been committin"-
every sort of atrocity, and the city Avas a scene of robbery
and murder; much of the storm fell on the Armenians, AA'ho
are knoAvn to possess wealth ; and the Armenian Patriarch,
venturing to remonstrate Avith these miscreants, Avas set up
as a target, and shot to death Avith arroAA's.
The appearance of Mohammed Shah before their Avails
put a stop to their career of licence : he beheaded, some
say 300, and others 30, of the rebels, and the chief, whom
he dared not serve in the same manner, on account of the
sanctity attached to his office, was banished. Although
this Avas the pretext assigned by Mohammed Shah for
setting the force on foot, his real object Avas to indulge
his ambition by marching on Bagdad, as a prior step to
which, Suleimanieh had been taken by the Persians as a
feeler, to try their strength, as Avell as to discover whether
any objection Avould be made to these hostilities by foreign
powers : Ave had the following details from those who saAv
the correspondence Avhich passed on the subject betAveen
the Vizier of the Shah and the Russian Ambassador,
General Duhamel ; and which evidences the paramount
influence attained by Russia at the Persian court, and the
style of dictation assumed by her toAvards the Shah's
Government. When the present force was raised, the
Russian Ambassador sent a strong remonstrance to the
Vizier, complaining of the violation of the Turkish frontier
by the taking of Suleimanieh by the Persians, and begging
to be informed whether this step had been taken by the
orders of the Shah's Government, or whether It arose from
a border quarrel and Avas an attack planned by the local
authorities unauthorized by the Government, as in the
former case he should be compelled to lay the affair before
the Emperor, Avho AA-ould be highly incensed at this hostile
violation of the Turkish territory. The Vizier, alarmed
by these threats, seized the alternative so artfully proposed,
and denied having given any instructions with respect to
the attack on Suleimanieh, throwing all the blame upon the

360 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
local authorities, Avhom he AA'ould bring to account for their
conduct : this AA'as the point the Russian Avished to gain,
and, pretending to be appeased by the disclaimer, he Avrote
back to say that it had been reported to him that the
present force raised by the Shah had been intended for
an attack on Bagdad ; but, of course, after the solemn
assurance of the Government of their non-participation
in the infringement of the Turkish frontier by the sack
of Suleimanieh, he could not belieA-e that there was any
intention on their part to direct their hostilities against
Bagdad, Avhich would giA'e the greatest offence to his
Government ; and the troubles at Ispahan being noAV
subdued, he expected the present force Avould be forthAvith
disbanded. The Shah, finding himself thus outwitted by
the wily Russian, dared not resist, but marched toAvards
Teheran, alloAving his troops gradually to disband and
return to their homes to save appearances. The present
Vizier, Meerza Aghassi, is very inimical to the English, and
a tool of Russia, and on one occasion displayed a jewelled
box in open durbar, presented to him by the Emperor as
a proof of the friendship between them, at the same time
proclaiming his enmity to the English,
NotAvithstanding that this is a despotic country, the
Government is Aveak and afraid to punish offenders ; AA'hen
the Shah Avas at KangoAvar, the OAvner of the garden, in
Avhich Meerza Ali Avas camped Avith his suite, not liking the
intrusion, had the audacity, in the night, to open the water
courses Avhich irrigated the land, and flooded all his tents,
committing much damage amongst his stationery and furni
ture ; and for this outrage the man escaped Avith impunity.
At Hamadan, Meerza Ali's French Secretary, having
quarrelled Avith some of the toAA'hspeople, was assaulted
and beaten, and although the perpetrator was knoAvn,
and the affair represented by the Vizier to the Shah's
brother, Avho Avas Governor of the toAvn, he Avas afraid
to punish the offender, because he was a tradesman of
some substance, and he wished to avoid a collision Avith
the body of the toAvnspeople : they pretended he could

PERSIA. 361
not be found, but after a feAV days the sufferer Avas obliged
to be satisfied Avith an apology.
The right of sanctuary in Persia attached to mosques,
harims, and CA-en extending to pieces of artillery, the horses
of the Shah or other persons of consequence, particular
gateAvays, etc., is inviolable, and is a great protection to
malefactors as Avell as a means of obtaining justice for the
innocent, Avhere, from the consequence or poAver of the
offender, it Avould othenvise be impossible ; in this manner
I heard of a poor widoAA', Avhose son had been kidnapped
by a man of high rank, enforcing justice from the Shah by
taking sanctuary under an antique brass gun in the palace-
yard at Teheran ; and on one occasion a Avhole regiment
took sanctuary in the Mosque of Imam Reza, at Mushed,
to obtain redress of some grievance ; and although the
Shah Avent in person to induce them to come out, they
would not consent, until their demands Avere granted; the
privilege is naturally very much abused, and the sanctuary
of Imam Reza in particular, including several squares and
streets, is a den of criminals, who keep their shops and
carry on their business as before, but are liable to be
seized AA'heneA'er they venture outside of the precincts.
The present Persian race is only improved in pro
portion to its admixture with the Caucasian blood of
Georgia and Armenia : white slavery has in this case
been of great advantage to Persia, for the Georgians are
physically and morally a much superior race, although
their moral qualities must necessarily be absorbed in
the national character of their masters : in some cases,
however, the Persians inherit from them a more open
physiognomy, while the majority, if judged from Le
Brun's Comparative Zoology, might Avell ansAver to the
Jackal family ; Avith regular features, they have a sharp
deceitful expression ; their most remarkable feature is the
lcn°- black beard ; I Avas told that Fath Ali Shah ahvays
had an attendant on each side of his horse to support
the ends of his beard ! The Persian dress contributes
a great deal to their forbidding appearance, the black

362 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
pointed cap is hideous, and the long goAvns very effeminate;
boys, till they are sixteen and more, alloAV their hair to
grow in curls doAvn their backs, Avhen they may easily be
mistaken for Avomen.
The next day Ave made our daily visit to Meerza Ali
to knoAv Avhat prospect there Avas of obtaining firmans,
and AA'ere put off Avith various excuses and false promises.
In the evening, the Avhole army Avas in motion, and Ave
marched up a steep rocky pass of Mount Ehvand for
Hamadan. The Persian army on the march have no order
or discipline, but every one gets to his ground in the best
individual Avay he can ; and, for a self-styled regular force,
I could not have imagined such a scene of confusion as
I witnessed to-night, except in a general rout, or flying
retreat before an enemy: foot-soldiers, cavalry, strings of
mules, camels, artillery, parties of officers, and baggage-
cattle all pressing on in a straggling mass, scrambling
among rocks and ravines, or falling into SAvamps ; in
some places, Avhere the track closed, leaving only a ledge
Avith room for one animal to pass at a time, there Avas a
momentary check and struggle for the path ; when the
press behind soon forced numbers to a perilous descent
into the ravines, and others to climb the abrupt acclivities
and croAvn the heights, to save themselves : add to this
the shouts of camel-drivers, the noise and uproar echoing
through the rocks, the calls for assistance of parties
extricating their fallen cattle, Avith the songs and merri
ment of those Avho Avere Avell mounted and as yet
unharmed, and it will give a faint idea of the disorderly
rabble with Avhich Ave Avere obliged to make progress : the
safest animal in such company is an old baggage-horse; it
knoAVS the roads well, is sure-footed, and has a sort of vis
inertice, acquired from constant hustling among loads, that
give it a great advantage in a struggle of this sort, and it
generally finds itself on the track when more fiery or active
horses are injuring themselves by impatient struggles, or
breaking their legs among the rocks. Fortunately, the
starlight Avas very brilliant, and, after the first rush, and

PERSIA. 363
as the night advanced, the stream of life on the line of
march became more attenuated, affording us rather more
safety, and in the morning, Ave were in a beautifully-
cultivated country, covered Avith Avhcat and barley in the
ear : this table land Avas much higher than the plains Ave
had quitted, Avith the summit of Mount Ehvand rising close
on our right, streaked Avith snoAV. Although there was
much damage done on the march, the men shoAved
here more forbearance than might have been expected,
by picqueting their horses on the borders of the fields.
The Persian rose, although abundant in the gardens,
hedges, and orchards, as it only floAvers once a year, in
June, and then only for a limited period, is no lasting
ornament to the country.
The Shah travels with tAvo sets of extensive tents,
each of Avhich covers a large area, surrounded by a high
wall of canvas, which is encircled at night by a toav
of blazing torches : one of these camps is ahvays sent
on in advance, Avhile the other is in occupation : and
is ahvays ready for his Majesty's reception Avhen he arrives
at the camping ground : his tents are usually pitched in a
grove of trees, or a garden, commanding water and shade.
The camp to-day Avas tAvo farsaks from Hamadan, at a
village called Azehra, in a pretty situation at the foot
of the mountains, surrounded by vineyards and varied
Avith a feAv trees : here the troops were already encamped ;
but the Shah not having come up, Ave took this opportunity
of indulging our curiosity Avith a vieAv of his Majesty, by
remaining in a shady spot under some trees close to
the road until he passed by. As we sat here Avaiting,
the Governor of Hamadan, having notice of the Shah's
arrival, passed out to meet him, accompanied by a large
body of cavalry, and four elephants Avith their heads
painted in various colours ; at eight o'clock the return
of the elephants gave us notice of the Shah's approach,
and he passed us on a fast-ambling horse, accompanied by
the old Vizier, Meerza Aghassi, and our friend, the Hakim
Bashi, and the rest of his court; but, as usual, Avithout

364 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
any order, the cavalcade being mixed up Avith horsemen
and baggage-cattle, Avhich preceded and folloAved them.
Mohammed Shah, of the Kadjur tribe, is a fine-looking
man, about thirty, rather stout, Avith round features and
a short beard ; he Avore a light green frock, with a brooch
or armlet on either arm, and a handsome diamond aigrette
in his black cap ; he is ahvays attended by his favourite
son, a boy about ten years of age. When his Majesty
commences a march, a little more regularity is observed,
Avhich I had an opportunity of seeing before quitting
his camp : a large body of cavalry being draAvn .up on
either side in front of his quarters, three flourishes of
trumpets announced that the Shah Avas ready to start ;
presently aftenvards a man came from his tent, and shouted
out three times in prolonged tones, " Mohammed Shah,"
Avhich AA'as the signal for the discharge of a dozen Zam-
bureks; the Shah then rode out, Avith his cortege, and
the horsemen immediately closed in on all sides, resuming
their usual disorder ; on this present occasion the Shah
rode a Avhite horse, dyed orange colour Avith henna from
the middle of the chest doAvmvards, and several uncouth
Russian carriages AA'ere In attendance. Mohammed Shah
ahvays rides on horseback, and prides himself on being
a soldier ; he is, hoAvever, of a mild and peaceable dis
position, and entirely gOA'erned by Meerza Aghassi, Avho
AA-as formerly his tutor ; by this means he has obtained
his present ascendency and influence, Avhich he has used
to bias the Shah against the English, notAvithstanding that
it AA'as they Avho set him on his throne.
The Shah has offered the refugee princes at Bagdad per
mission to return to Persia, Avith the restoration of all their
property, Avhich, however, they are quite right in refusing,
as their heads Avould never be in safety ; not that I believe
he AA'ould Avilfully betray them, but in case of his death,
or the Vizier taking advantage of a weak moment of the
Shah, they Avould merely add another to the accumulated
examples of Eastern political treachery. An instance of
his Aveakness occurred Avhile Ave Avere Avith the camp :

PERSIA.

365

a party of the French officers Avho have lately come to
Persia arrived from Teheran, for the purpose of obtain
ing their arrears of pay, amounting to about £300, from
the Minister ; after endeavouring to play with them and
put them off for some time, seeing they Avere determined
on not quitting Avithout. it, and Avcaried by their im
portunity, he gave them an order on one of the principal
men of Hamadan, declaring he himself had not a farthing
in the world : on this order being presented, the rich
man Avent off to complain to Mohammed Shah, Avho
hearing the amount Avas only 600 tomans, paid it out
of his OAvn private purse : no doubt the Vizier could have
produced twenty times that sum at a minute's notice,
and ought to have been compelled to pay it, but probably
the Shah Avas ashamed of his conduct, and out of respect
for him, wished to hush it up.
I am told that Fath Ali Shah ahvays used the plural
number in speaking of himself, and sometimes the third
person ; a custom the present Shah has not adopted.
The nominal pay of the Vizier is 2000 tomans, or £1000
per annum ; but by bribes, extortions, and peculation,
he raises his income to a very large amount.
Hamadan is a large toAvn, built of sun-dried brick, and
surrounded by a AA'eak Avail ; It is situated at the foot of
the Elwand, in one of the most beautiful situations I have
seen in Persia ; the AA'hole plain in Avhich it stands being
richly cultivated, and abounding in streams and springs
of fine water ; it is also AA'ell Avooded in the valleys at
the foot of the hills ; but the principal trees in the plain
are avUIoavs, Avhich line the water-courses, or toavs of
poplars, which are very abundant, and groAV among the
houses and in the courtyards ; but being a stiff ungraceful
tree, it adds little to the beauty of the vieAv, except from
its verdure : the principal cultivation of the district is
wheat and barley, and the chief OAvner of the lands
is an officer high in the Shah's service, Avho Avas absent
Avith his regiment in Khorassan ; his residence is at the
fort of Shavarin, five miles from the toAvn, where we

Z66 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
accompanied Meerza Ali's European Secretary, to see
his nepheAv Mahmoud Khan, also an officer in the Shah's
service : this young man aa'c found rather superior to the
Persians in general ; he is married to a sister of the
present Shah ; he appeared intelligent, and Avas anxious
to visit Europe, Avhich Avas not easily to be accomplished,
owing to the jealousy of his gOA'ernment ; he has a taste
for draAving and AA'as practising lithography. Shavarin is
a mud fort, Avith double Avails, prettily situated. The
Khan expected the Shah to visit him the next day, and
AA-as anxious to astonish him Avith fire-balloons ; but the
Avhole toAvn AA'as searched in vain for tissue paper, and
although I made them Avith common paper, they Avere too
heavy to ascend. The Shah's officers dress in a sort of
European costume, consisting of a frock coat, plaited full,
AA'ith trousers, but usually of the most ill-assorted colours ;
Hussein Khan, Avho went as ambassador to Paris, and
AA-as justly denied a reception in England, Avore a purple
shot-silk frock coat, Avith red silk trousers.
Hamadan has an insignificant appearance from its Avant
of minarets ; in the toAvn is a small, high, brick-built
edifice, apparently of the time of the Khaliphate; it is
four-sided, and the interior elaborately Avorked Avith stuc
coed figures ; the natives say this covers a treasure, Avhich
is guarded by a skeleton : on looking into the vaults under
it, Avhich are half filled Avith rubbish, Ave found some
skeletons, exposing their anatomy in vrooden cases, AA-hich
Avere open ; but the treasure Avas rather more fabulous. A
small mausoleum Avithin the Avails belongs to the Jcavs,
and is said to contain the remains of Esther and Mordecai.
Hamadan has been identified as the site of Ecbatana of
Media; there arc some mounds S.W. of the toAvn, which are
the only apparent remains of ancient buildings, Avith parts
of Avails, and a massive tOAver or bastion of gravel concrete.
There are several large caravanserais in the town and
bazaars Avhich are badly built. The Persians are ingenious
Avorkmen ; their shoes are equal in appearance to Euro
pean ; and they imitate our guns exactly ; only failing in

PERSIA. 367
their attempts to copy the makers' names, by AA'hich they
are easily detected ; their goods are hoAvever flimsy : they
are fond of and haA-c some taste for painting and orna
menting their looking-glasses, Avriting-cases, etc., Avith
enamelled paintings of figures and animals, AA'hich are
not badly executed, though very deficient in perspectiA'e ;
I do not knoAv hoAV they reconcile this indulgence Avith
the prohibition of images in the Koran, so strictly at
tended to by the Soonees.
On returning from an excursion outside the toAA'n, I fell
in Avith a party of Persians, AA'ho were quail-haAvking, for
Avhich purpose a small sparroAV-haAvk is used ; it Is a very
tame amusement, on account of the short flight of the
quarry ; this haAvk does not sit oh the fist, but is grasped
round the tail and Avings and throAvn at the quail; these
haAvks are caught and trained at the beginning of the
season before the quails arrive, and set at liberty Avhen it is
over ; when tired Avith this sport, the horsemen amused
themselves practising at a mark, consisting of a ball of wool
laid on a bank ; this they fired at, at full speed, Avhen
passing within fifteen or twenty yards ; the first feAv shots
Avere pretty Avell aimed, those that missed the mark
glancing from the bank and humming across the country
for the benefit of the public : aftenvards, from the badness
of their poAvder or gunlocks, they continually missed fire ;
I counted successiA-ely as many as six Avhose guns could
not be induced to go off.
During our detention here Ave made a trip to see
some Babylonian inscriptions, Avhich Ave had heard of in
the Koh Ehvand, near the village of Abbasabad; from
the foot of the hills we Avound up a thickly-Avooded gorge,
the bed of a mountain torrent ; about half a mile above
the village Ave found two large tablets of Cuneiform in
scriptions, of two different characters ; they were deeply
cut on the steep rocky face of a ravine on the right of
the road, where the stream comes tumbling through the
rocks in three or four broken cascades; besides the in
scriptions, Avhich are clear and perfect and Avell carved,

J

68 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.

there is another tablet nearly effaced and a niche cut in
the stone ; although avc copied them, they have been
already published ; the people give this tablet the name
of Gange Namah, the History of the Treasure, and say
it indicates the locality of the hidden treasures of Ameer
Khan Pehhvi, AA'ho AAas conquered by Alexander the
Great : in proof of this they tell you that the streams
from the mountains bring doAvn Avhat they call gold dust,
and that the teeth of the sheep Avhich graze on the hills
are dyed yelloAV by the herbs they feed on, and Avhich
they suppose to be impregnated AA'ith gold. The sand of
these streams is certainly full of glittering spangles of
mica, AA'hich AA'hen taken betAveen the fingers, rubs into a
bronze poAvder, and this gives some countenance to their
traditional theories. I saAv the Avater-ousel in these hills.
After various delays and false assurances of despatch
from Meerza Ali, Ave at length Avaited on the Vizier
Meerza Aghassi, to discover Avhether it Avas his intention
to allow us to proceed on our journey : we found him
sitting half undressed in a large room, the AA'alls lined
Avith Persians in durbar ; he is a little shrivelled old man,
very ignorant, but shreAvd and cunning, Avith a shrill loud
voice ; and when he gets excited, he has an extraordinary
habit of knocking his black cap awry alternately from
one side of his head to the other ; I am told that he
surpasses even the Persians in general in the Avant of
decorum and the grossness of his language : on the
present occasion he Avas sitting with a tray of fruit and
ice before him, in AA'hich he Avas indulging alone, Avhile
his circle looked on ; I never saAv so mercurial a little
old fellow for a Minister of State, and it was with the
greatest of difficulty AA'e could keep our countenance as
he Avent on eating and vociferating all the Avhile, venting
his feelings on his cap, AA'hich Avas sometimes in his tray,
and again perched knoAvingly over one eye, till a fresh
ebullition gave it an impetus to the back of his head
exposing his bare croAvn ; it Avas really most laughable.
We sat doAvn by the Avail, with the rest of the people, till

PERSIA. 369
he had finished his tiffin, during Avhich they stretched
their politeness so far as to present us Avith tea. The old
Meerza first alluded to the differences between England
and Persia, Avhich, hoAVCAer, they did not look upon in the
light of an open rupture, although the English had all
left the country; but still he did not knoAv AA'hat our
object could be in coming to Persia, under the present
aspect of affairs ; Ave told him avc Avere mere travellers
Avho had come undisguised to request a travelling firman
to pass through the country by Ispahan and Yezd,' on
our AA-ay to India : this he said Avas impossible, as the
road by Yezd, and the province of Seistan, was through
broad deserts, which he could not insure our traversing
Avith safety, appealing to his courtiers for their ready
acquiescence, AA'ho forthAvith each had his story to tell of
perils and dangers Avhich had befallen passengers on that
road : and here our friend the French Secretary, thinking
to assist us, very ill-advisedly told him that the road
being little known Avas our object in visiting it, for the
purpose of making maps for the benefit of the public.
This raised his suspicions at once, and he refused point
blank to alloAV us to go that road at all, excusing himself
by saying that the British Government would hold him
responsible if anything happened to us and make it a
pretext for further quarrel : on this AA'e offered to give
him a Avritten release from all responsibility, a copy of
Avhich to be fonvarded to Colonel Shiel at Erzroom, if
he Avould only alloAV us to prosecute our route : to this
he first pretended to accede, but afterAvards returned to
his former refusal; he then offered to alloAV us to return
to Bushire and embark : or proceed by the road of
Mushed to Herat, for Avhich Ave should be provided Avith
firmans. After much sparring and circumlocution, Ave
found Ave should be compelled to abandon our original
intention of reaching Candahar through Seistan, as the
old Vizier adhered to his determination. After this
audience, my companion, finding that Ave should not be
able to folloAv the route Ave had intended, resolved to return
24

3JO FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
to Bushire, on the Persian Gulf, Avhile I prosecuted my
journey alone through Khorassan, Afghanistan and India.
As an instance of the gross ignorance of the Vizier,
I must notice that on my excusing myself from embark
ing at Bushire for India, on account of suffering from
sea-sickness, he inquired hoAV it Avas, in that case, I had
been able to come to Bagdad through Turkish Arabia,
Avhere he had been informed the rains had been very
abundant during the last season.
NotAvithstanding that everything seemed noAV settled,
apparently Avith the acquiescence of the minister, it will
hardly be believed, but which Ave aftenvards discovered,
that to Avithin three days of our departure, and after
a detention of a month in the camp, the lying old
Vizier had not decided Avhether he should allow us to
go at all ; In fact, Ave Avere looked upon in the light
of spies ; and yet, had this been the case, they could
not have played into our hands better than by keep
ing us Avith the Court, Avhere Ave saAv and kneAV every
thing that was going on. In the meantime, not being
quite an fait to Persian falsehood, Ave called daily on
Meerza Ali, to knoAv Avhen our firmans Avould be ready ;
these he ahvays faithfully promised by the next day,
and on the morroAv Ave Avere invariably met by some
trivial excuse and a reneAved promise to be cancelled
in turn the day after. From various hints, Ave found out
that this felloAv expected, according to the custom of the
country, to be bribed ; but as this AA'as entirely against
our policy, his expectations Avere disappointed, and even
had AAre paid him, he had no poAver to despatch us before
the Minister's permission Avas given. After daily applica
tions, either personally or by letter, answered by constant
false promises, Ave Avere resolving on leaving Avithout
firman or leave, as the place Avas becoming unhealthy,
and our supply of cash Avas beginning to run Ioav, and
Ave had a long journey in prospect ; Avhen, fortunately for
us, the Secretary of the Russian Embassy, Baron C. A.
Bode, arrived at the Shah's camp from Teheran : this

PERSIA. 371
gentleman, hearing of our detention and unpleasant
situation, kindly interested himself in our favour, and
promised to use his influence in obtaining the necessary
papers from the Vizier to enable us to depart, remon
strating Avarmly Avith Meerza Ali for having subjected us
to such vexatious delays. I really am unable to speak
in any measured terms of the shameful conduct of
these Persians in office toAA-ards us : during a month's
stay In the camp and court, A\re had never experienced the
slightest hospitality or civility at their hands; Ave had
been detained all this time by daily lies ; Ave had left our
English passports at the request of Meerza Ali in his
possession, as before mentioned, and noAV this thorough
paced young villain had the audacity to assert to Baron
Bode that Ave had brought no papers Avhatever; that
they did not knoAv who Ave Avere, and could not be
expected to furnish firmans to strangers under such
circumstances : this was a climax of villainy Ave could
scarcely have contemplated, and our rage and indignation
at these barefaced assertions, Avith his OAvn experience of
Persian falsehood, immediately convinced the Baron that
he had been imposed on, and he sent orders to Meerza
Ali insisting on the production of our passports ; Meerza
Ali, finding his lie detected, then pretended he had mislaid
them, and would seek among his papers : to end this tale
of Persian treachery and rascality, the passports Avere
eventually produced, but not till the very morning of the
march of the army for Kasbin. Old Meerza Aghassi,
finding the Secretary of the Russian Embassy had no
suspicion of our being aught but Avhat avc professed, and
that he used his influence in our favour, thought he had
nothing to fear by alloAA'ing us to depart ; and in considera
tion of our detention, and of our being preA'ented folloAving
the route we Avished, he directed the firmans to be made
out Avith an order to the heads of villages at the different
stations on our respective roads to furnish us with a
certain quantity of forage and provisions gratuitously;
this I found of great advantage in procuring supplies,

37^ FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
Avhich could not othenvise have been obtained for money
at all times, among these inhospitable people, and even
A\ith this order it Avas often attended Avith much difficulty.
I cannot help recording here the very uncommon fact of
meeting Avith one Persian Avho spoke truth, AA'hich deserves
notice from its rarity ; this was Meerza Mohammed Ali,
the Minister's Secretary, A\'ho had formerly accompanied
a Persian Ambassador to England, and AA-ho Avas noAV
employed in AA-riting all the correspondence of the Govern
ment ; he Avas a good-tempered man and spoke French
fluently : Ave Avere often referred to him for our firmans,
and told that he had orders to prepare them ; this Avas
Avith the object of making him bear some of the odium of
our detention ; but he never gaA'e us any promise or hopes,
although expressing his Avillingness to serve us, until he
actually received the instructions to prepare them, when
he promised Ave should have them the following day,
and to our astonishment they Avere ready at the appointed
time. We had reason to be very grateful . to Baron Bode
for his interference and assistance in our difficulties, but
for Avhich Ave might have been detained an indefinite
period, or perhaps obliged to return to Bagdad ; besides his
exertions in this respect, Ave A\rere much indebted to him
for his general kindness and attention, the more gratifying
in a strange country, and under circumstances "aa here Ave
might have expected, but never found, political feelings
interfering AA'ith the courtesy of the gentleman, or the
kindly feelings of the Christian. In the presence of the
Persians, the Baron ahvays took off his hat Avhen naming
the name of Jesus Christ. As an instance of his spon
taneous goodness of heart, I must mention that, hearing
Ave had been robbed in the house of an Armenian, where
Ave Avere lodging, of a purse of tomans, Avhich Ave AA-ere
unable to recover, he immediately offered to advance us
funds for the prosecution of our journey; and as Ave Avere
put to much inconvenience by this loss, his generous offer
Avas as freely accepted as it Avas frankly offered. Should

PERSIA.

373

these pages ever meet the eye of Baron Bode, I trust
he will not be offended at this acknoAvlcdgment of our
obligations for his kindness, but accept this as a slight
tribute of esteem and gratitude from those to Avhom he
Avas a friend in a foreign land.
Until I learnt the graceless character of the Persians
I had expected to have found a better feeling on their
part toAvards the English than actually exists ; considering
that Ave haA'e armed and disciplined their troops ; our
officers have been continually living among them ; and
it Avas Ave in short AA'ho assisted Mohammed Shah to
mount the throne. They had a certain respect for the
English, but it did not, as in other countries, influence
their treatment of individuals ; the friendship of these
people is maintained no longer than while we pay for
it, and they profit by it.
We had removed from the Armenian quarters, and
occupied a small upper room at the opposite end of the
toAvn, to be near the head-quarters of the army : the
situation Avas unhealthy, from the number of trees groAving
among the houses ; besides the damp from the numerous
water-courses from the mountains, some of Avhich form
ravines, intersecting the toAvn ; many of the houses in
high situations had an elegant appearance, being furnished
Avith verandahs supported on light Avooden pillars : Ave
amused ourselves during our stay riding about the country,
and, before or since, I have seen no place in Persia to
equal the beauty, fertility, and richness of the A'alley of
Hamadan : the gorges of the mountains are full of vine
yards and orchards of fruit trees, and the plain is covered
with grain, Avhich is hoav harvesting and being carried
into the little mud forts Avhich are scattered about the
country. The principal fuel in Persia is dry coAv-dung, Avhich
is made, AA'ith earth and straAV, into flat cakes, and dried
in the sun : on the line of march of the Shah's army
at the different villages, immense stacks of this fuel
had been prepared for the use of the troops : this is

374 FROM ENGLAND TO CEYLON.
proof of the absence of timber in the country south of
the Elburz mountains. The Persians Avear very high-
heeled shoes, or boots, and carry a broad, double-edged,
pointed hanger at the Avaist. Here, as in some other parts
of the East, the custom exists of raising large heaps of
stones on conspicuous eminences by pilgrims, or travellers :
these are usually found at the first turn or point of
the road that brings them in sight of their destination.
I Avas informed that tAvo or three marches south
of Hamadan there is a hill-fort, consisting of a mound
surrounded by a village : from the interior of this fort an
underground passage leads doAvn two or three hundred
feet to a subterranean lake of clear Avater, abounding
in fish.
Near Hamadan avc fell in Avith a travelling Parsee
merchant, a native of Yezd ; he Avas an intelligent man,
and Avas here on some business AA'ith the Vizier, being a
money-lender : he had been all OA'er Persia on his donkey,
and, hearing of our intention of A'isiting Yezd, he gave
us some information with respect to the roads : he told
us the road from Ispahan to Yezd was through a wild
country, but AA'ith villages at intervals, and Yezd itself in
a fertile spot, surrounded with gardens ; but, beyond this,
he said, there Avas no passable road to the Seistan Lake,
AA'hich received the Avaters of the Helmund, and, to reach
that part of the country, Ave should be compelled to go
down to Kinnan, from Avhence the caravans for Kandahar
take their departure : although this appears a long Avay
round, yet we were assured, on minute inquiry, that there
AA'as no other route than Kirman to the proA'ince of
Seistan.

,YALB\' EN° 0F V0L" L

STEPHEN AUSTJN" AND SONS, PRINTERS, IIKKIt-ORD.