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'YALE UNIVERSITY
? L I B R,A R,Y *

FROM THE FVND IN MEMORY OF
FRANKLIN BOWDITCH DEXTER.
SECRgTAS-y- LIBRARY-HISTORIAN OF YME

Southwest Virginia

AND

Shenandoah Valley.

AN INQUIRY INTO THE CAUSES OF THE RAPID GROWTH AND
WONDERFUL DEVELOPMENT OF SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA
AND^SHENANDOAH VALLEY, WITH A HISTORY OF THE
NORFOLK AND WESTERN AND SHENANDOAH VAL
LEY RAILROADS; AND SKETCHES OF THE PRIN
CIPAL CITIES AND TOWNS INSTRUMENTAL
IN THE PROGRESS OF THESE SECTIONS.

THOMAS BRUCE,
Author of "Cupid and Duty," "Historical Sketch of Roanoke,'
"Sketch of Radford," "That Bruisin' Lad
q' Greystone Lodge."

COPYRIGHT SECURED.

RICHMOND :
J. L. Hill Publishing Company.
1891.

CONTENTS.

PART I.

DEDICATION. PREFACE.
INTRODUCTION.
*
Page
Chapter I — Original Settlers ...  1
Country west of the Blue Ridge, and the first settlers of Southwest
Virginia — Their troubles with the Indians — Frontier warfare —
Gradual formation of the counties until 1861— Primitive life of the
early settlers : their laws, morals, etc.
Chapter II — Territory of Southwest Virginia  23
The great valley — Southwest Virginia a part of it — Territorial limits
of Southwest Virginia — Its geological formation — Its scenery, cli
mate, agricultural and mineral resources — Its advantages as a manu
facturing centre.
Chapter III— Slavery. . .  44
Slavery : Its effect upon the country, upon the people owning slaves,
and upon the slaves themselves — Abolition of slavery one of the
causes of the progress of Southwest Virginia.
Chapter IV — New River Railroad  53
The New River branch of the Norfolk and Western Railroad Com
pany — Part played by the New River railroad in the development
of Southwest Virginia — Its inception and beginning — Its original
charter — General G. C. Wharton — Dr. John B. Radford — First or
ganization—Meeting at Eggleston's Springs — Resolutions of incor
porators — Richard B. Roane, Thomas Graham, J. D. Sergeant, and
Walter Wood — Governor Gilbert C. Walker — Options and coal
lands, and the manner in which the roac^was captured from the
original incorporators — Country which was opened up by this rail
road — Pocahontas and the Flat Top coal regions.

IV INDEX. Page
Chapter V— Norfolk and Western Railroad  76
The Norfolk and Western Railroad Company: Its inception and
beginning — The Norfolk and Petersburg Railroad Company — The
Southside railroad — The Virginia and Tennessee railroad — The
Virginia and Kentucky railroad — The New River branch — Creation
of the extension mortgage— The Cripple Creek extension — The Nor
folk Terminal Company — The Bluestone extensions— The Clinch
Valley extension — The Elk Horn extension to Ironton, Ohio — The
Scioto Valley railroad — The Southeastern extension into North
Carolina — The Shenandoah Valley division — Increase in mileage of
the Norfolk and Western railroad for the past ten years — Increase
in passenger and freight traffic — Increase of its rolling stock— Its
financial. advance.
Chapter VI — Norfolk and Western Railroad — Continued ... 99
Norfolk and Western Railroad Company (continued)— Policy of the
company — Its equipment, service, and regulations — Its adjuncts (the
Roanoke Machine Works, the Virginia Company, and real estate
operations of the latter) — Speculations of the Norfolk and Western
Railroad Company through the Virginia Company — Statutory regu
lations regarding railroads holding real estate — Commissioner of
Railways of the State of Virginia the proper governing authority in
these cases — General remarks on this company as a. railroad corpo
ration.
Chapter VII— Joint-Stock Land Companies  110
The joint-stock land improvement companies — Their origin, forma
tion, and mode of government — Their effect upon Southwest Vir-
finia — These companies the means of manufactures and' enterprises
eing brought in — The general results of their efforts — Speculation
in connection with them — Its effects — Various opinions concerning
the same — Lieutenant-Governor Tyler, James S. Simmons, L. L.
Powell, L. S. Calfee, A. M. Bowman, E. S. Stuart, J. Lawrence Rad
ford.
Chapter VIII— Lynchburg . .  120
Lynchburg — Gateway to the Valley of Southwest Virginia — Some
thing of its earlier history — Gradual growth of the town from ante
bellum days until the present — Its commercial and manufacturing
interests — Its capital — Its business progress — Its climate — Its reli
gious privileges, educational facilities, and social status — General
remarks concerning Lynchburg.
Chapter IX — Roanoke  132
Roanoke — Derivation of the name — Big Lick — Its inception — Origi
nal owners ofthe soil — Its inhabitants — Its sudden progress — Change
of name to Roanoke in 1882 — Roanoke's rapid growth — The causes
of it — The Roanoke Machine Works — Incorporation of the place as
a city in 1884 — Its manufacturing industries, commercial enterprises,
and joint-stock land companies — The peculiar patriotic spirit of its
inhabitants — Their pluck and energy in a material way — The labor
ing population — Strikes — Present number of people — Capital and
financial condition of the city — Its churches, schools, and journals —
Some general remarks about the city — Its probable future.-

INDEX. V
Page
Chapter X— Salem  149
Salem — Its name — Surrounding country, scenery, and climate — A
summer resort— The seat of learning, refinement, and culture — Man
ners and character of the people — The land companies— D. B.
Strouse, A. M. Bowman, J..W. F. Allemong, J. T. Crabtree, Dr.
Dreher, George Allen, William M. Nelson — Industries and manufac
tories — Mineral resources and F. J. Chapman— Wonderful growth —
Number of inhabitants — Financial status — Religious, educational,
and social features of the place — Something concerning its future.
Chapter XI— Radford  . ,  160
Radford — Situation of the town—Formerly known as Central —
Original owners of the soil— Inception of the place — Its gradual
growth until construction of the New River Railroad — Incorpora
tion of the place as Central in 1887 — Purchase of the Wharton and
Radford farms by the Radford Land and Improvement Company — •
West Radford — Development of the same — Its enterprises and in
dustries — The Radford Development Company— Growth of East
Radford — Spirit between East and West Radford — Resources of
the town— Its financial status — Its population, schools, churches,
and hotels — The Radford "Enterprise" — Future of the town as
an iron centre.
*
Chapter XII — Pulaski City  171
West of New river — Stock-grazing section — New river plateau — Pu
laski County — New river-Cripple creek mineral region — Cripple
Creek extension of the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company —
Martin's Tank — Beginning of its development — Growth of the place,
and change of name to Pulaski City — Bertha Zinc Works — George
T.Mills — L. S. Calfee — The furpaces and other industries and enter
prises — Population, churches, schools, and social state of the town —
Pulaski City as an iron centre— Probable future of the place.
Chapter XIII— Wythe  179
Wythe County — Max Meadows — Wytheville— Crockett and Rural
Retreat — Washington county — Glade Springs — Saltville — Future of
the cities and towns of Southwest Virginia.

PART II.

INTRODUCTION. Page
Chapter I — Shenandoah Valley  195
Territory traversed by the Shenandoah Valley railroad — Early set
tlers of this country — Indian warfare — Peace — The growth of the
country — The Civil war — This country part of the battle-field during
the war — Climate, scenery, agricultural and mineral rebources—
Manufacture and cost of making iron— These natural advantages
original cause of the development of the country.
Chapter II — Shenandoah Valley Railroad  208
Shenandoah Valley railroad — Organized in 1867 — Dates of con
struction of the various parts of the road — Completion to Waynes
boro Junction — Tripartite agreement between the Shenandoah Val
ley railroad, the Norfolk and Western railroad, and the East Ten
nessee, Virginia and Georgia, which constituted the Virginia, Ten
nessee and Georgia Air Line — Issue of new 'mortgage by the Shen
andoah Valley Railroad Company — Interest of the Norfolk and
Western in this company — Receiver appointed — Purchase of the
road by the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company — Some
general remarks as to the effect of this purchase upon Shenandoah
Valley.
Chapter III— Luray.  215
Effect of the wonderful Caverns of Luray upon Shenandoah Valley —
Luray — Derivation of its name— Its gradual growth — Discovery of
the caverns by B. P. Stebbins, Andrew J. Campbell, and W. B.
Campbell — Purchase of Cave Hill by these parties — Litigation over
the same— Decision of the supreme court against the purchasers —
Sale of the property to a Northern syndicate — Description of the '
caverns — Advent of Shenandoah Valley railroad — The Defoard tan
nery — Rapid growth of Luray— The Valley Land and Improvement
Company — Manufactories and industries of the town — Population,
schools, and churches — Luray Inp — General remarks upon the place.
Chapter IV— Shenandoah— Grottoes . ..... ... 224
Shenandoah — Formerly Milnes — Centre of a mineral region — Some
of its advantages — The railroad shops — An iron-manufacturing point
— The furnaces — Its advantages as a divisional point — The Shenan
doah Land and Improvement Company — Capitalists connected with
it— ^Something as to the future of the place — The Grottoes of the
Shenandoah — Weyer's Cave — Fountain's Cave — Madison's Cave —
The place now called Shendun — The Grottoes Company — Jed.
Hotchkiss — Improvements made there— Its future as a business cen
tre and summer resort.

INDEX. VII
Page
Chapter V— Berryville  234
Clarke county — Date of formation — Its resources — Population and
class of people — Berryville, the county-seat (formerly known as
Battletown)— Growth of the place since the advent of the Shenandoah
Valley railroad — The inhabitants of the place— Churches, schools,
and social status — Many facilities and advantages of the town — For
mation of the Berryville Land and Improvement Company— Some
general remarks upon the town.
Chapter VI— Front Royal  , . . . 239
Warren county — Formed in 1836 — Character of its agricultural re
sources and mineral deposits— Front Royal, the county-sea't — The
twin cities, Front Royal and Riverton — Something of their past his
tory — Growth of these places after the construction of the Shenan
doah Valley railroad — Present number and character of the inhabi
tants of the twin cities — The Front Royal and Riverton Improvement
Company — H. H. Downing — Manufacturing and commercial inter
ests ofthe towns — The development companies — Churches, schools,
and social state — One Of the coming cities of Shenandoah Valleyj
Chapter VII — Waynesboro  246
Augusta county— Once a part of Orange county — Cut off in 1738 —
This county once included all the country between the Blue Ridge
mountains and Mississippi river — Its settlement and rapid growth —
Population of same — -Agricultural and mineral resources — Waynes
boro — When laid off and origin of its name — Its original owners and
celebrated tavern— Growth of the place, and the Civil war — Advent
of the Shenandoah Valley railroad — Development of Waynesboro
commenced by Basic City in 1889 — The Waynesboro Company — The
Waynesboro and Basic City Land Company — Improvements— Man- ,
ufacturing and commercial interests of the placer-Churches, schools,
and people of Waynesboro— This town obliged to become a part of
Basic City.
Chapter VIII— Basic City  253
Basic City — Location — On May 9th the junction of the Chesapeake ' <
and Ohio railroad and the Shenandoah Valley — Rapid growth — The
cause — Centre of the basic steel section in the South — The Basic
City Mining and Manufacturing Company — Policy of the company —
Sam. Furrow— J. M. Quarles — Manufacturing and commercial inter
ests of the place— Basic City and Waynesboro — Some general re-
, marks upon the towns in Shenandoah Valley as to their present status
and future progress.

DEDICATION.

N

m
OT on account of its merit, but the sincere gratitude and affection of
the author, is this work inscribed and dedicated to one, who^ though
a moving power behind the throne, is none the less entitled to the credit
of having swayed the potent influence that led to the conception of the
undertaking in the beginning, as, by her love, fidelity, and encouragement,
she assisted materially in the execution of it.
THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE.

WHATEVER is wonderful in animate or inanimate nature excites our
admiration, and conceives within us an intense desire to inquire into
it — to seek out as far as possible the causes which have produced the start
ling effects.
The rapid development of Southwest Virginia and Shenandoah Valley is
almost phenomenal. The beholder, North, South, East, and West, is cast
ing his glance towards these favored sections of the New South in her new
era, and astonishment at its rapid strides rests upon his face. In fact, so
wonder&il is the progression of these sections that the chronicler of dates and
events occurring within their borders can scarcely keep apace with them.
Everything connected with them is fraught with unusual interest, and the
older inhabitants of these communities cannot gauge the rapid pulse, nor
comprehend at all the throbbing beats of the arteries of this material progres
sion which is transforming a country ruined by a civil war twenty years ago
into a land literally "flowing with milk and honey."
The author here desires to express his earnest thanks to the people of
these sections who, by attention, courtesy, and kindness, contributed so
materially to the lightening of his labors and his search after knowledge in
the way of material and data. He is fully aware of the arduous undertaking
now before him, and enters upon the same with many misgivings as to his
ability to perform it well, trusting more to the indulgence of the kind reader
rather than to any power of his in the execution of so great a task.
As this is purely an historical work, and the author desiring it to rest solely
upon its intrinsic merit, it is stripped of all accessories in the way of sketches,
views, and cuts, which constitute more or less a charm about a book that has
a great deal to do with forming the opinion of a large portion of the public
in regai d to writings ofthe present day.
THE AUTHOR.

INTRODUCTION.

SOUTHWEST Virginia and Shenandoah Valley comprise the fairest
dominion of any section of country lying within the limits of the South
ern States.
The wonderful development of these two sections which has marked the
progress of events in the past ten years in the Southern States will be treated
in this work rather in accordance with the landmark of time than that of ter
ritory. The great Southwest, neither more beautiful nor richer in agricultural
and mineral resources than Shenandoah Valley, will be taken first, because,
in point of time, it was the first to adorn the robe of material progress and
growth. It will be readily seen that this work is rather an inquiry into the astonish
ing growth of these sections, than any past, succinct history of the^ji ; and,
after each as a whole has been treated, historical sketches of the new towns
which have grown as if by magic along the lines of the Norfolk and Western
railroad, with those on the Shenandoah Valley, will be given in their proper
places. It is not difficult to assign the causes for the rapid development of these
sections. First, the location of the countries themselves, with their scenery,
salubrious climate, agricultural and mineral resources bestowed upon them
in a prodigal manner by the God of nature. Second, the abolition of slavery.
Third, the conception, formation, and construction of the New River railrpad
into the rich coal fields of Southwest Virginia, and Mercer and McDowell
counties, West Virginia. Fourth, the developing policy of the Norfolk and ,
Western Railroad Company, in conjunction with the construction of the
Shenandoah Valley railroad to Roanoke, intersecting the former. Fifth, the
formation of the joint-stock land companies, and their untiring energy and
enterprise in locating, encouraging, and constructing vast industrial enter
prises, which invariably take their part in a country's material progress.
The inquiry into and history of these causes shall be impartially written,
and full credit given to each and every one ; while all objectionable features,
if there be any, will be fairly discussed.
For reasons already assigned, we will take Southwest Virginia as the first
part of our work, and then sketches of the cities and towns most instrumental
in aiding in the rapid development and growth of this section.

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA
AND
SHENANDOAH VALLEY

CHAPTER I.

Country west of the Blue Ridge, and the first settlers of Southwest Virginia —
Their trouble with the Indians — Frontier warfare — Gradual formation of
the various counties until 1861 — Primitive life of the early settlers : their
laws, morals, etc.
*
THE Blue Ridge mountains, as a landmark, have played
an important part in Virginia's history. Long before the
fertile valleys and mineral hills west of these mountains
were discovered, or the gaze of the white man rested upon
New river, the eastern portion of the State had some 80,000
people, and Shenandoah Valley three or four hundred souls.
The forefathers of the latter came into this valley by way of
Harper's Ferry from Pennsylvania, of whom we shall have
more to say in the second part of this work.
The threading of the labyrinth of Rosamond's bower could
scarcely have been more difficult than the tracing of the foot
steps of these earlier settlers, in any chronological order, who
first came into that country now known as Southwest Virginia.
The want of all records, which the early settlers failed to
preserve, reduces the chronicler of events to groping in the
dark, and learning from uncertain sounds the paths trod by,
our forefathers. Several reasons may be assigned for this
unfortunate state of affairs. The primitive, struggling life of
those earlier pioneers was not conducive to the recordation of
events, and the constant destruction of their settlements by the
Indians was often a clean sweep, where the inhabitants could

Z SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
/
not even escape with their lives, to say nothing of records, if
any were preserved. Tradition, therefore, plays an important
part in this earlier history, for out of chaos it is difficult to
extract facts with any degree of certainty, or bring chrono
logically down events which have only the palest light to
disclose the landmarks as we descend the corridors of time.
In the year 1734 the county of Orange was formed. It then
embraced not only its present area east of the Blue Ridge, but
all the undefined claims of the Colony of Virginia west of the
Blue Ridge mountains to the Pacific ocean. The western por
tion of this territory at that time was the home of the Indian
and wild beasts, who in a great measure j>reyed upon each
other. In the year 1738 Orange county was diminished in territory
by the formation of Augusta and Frederick counties, which
comprised all the territorial limits west of the Blue* Ridge
mountains. With the exception of the small area of country ^
in the lower part of Shenandoah county, called Frederick,
Augusta comprised all the territory west of the Blue Ridge.
In 1763, by the treaty with France, its western boundaries
were limited by the Mississippi river, and it contained all that
section of country west of the Blue Ridge, and the States of
West Virginia, Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, JMichigan,
¦and "Wisconsin.
The first white persons who ever trod the wilds of western
Virginia were not Governor Spotswood and his knights of
the "Golden Horseshoe," as many would have us believe.
Although he was knighted and immortalized for having dis
covered what he then described as "God's country," yet
others before him had penetrated those wilds, of which he
only took a cursory view. A careful examination, by aid of
the best light we have upon the subject, clearly indicates that
Colonel Wood was in Southwest Virginia sixty-two years be
fore Governor Spotswood.
In 1654, Colonel Abraham Wood, being of an adventurous
and roving disposition, obtained permission of the Governor of

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 3
Virginia to explore the country west and open a trade with the
Indians. He was a resident of Appomattox, dwelling some
where near ihe present sight ofthe city of Petersburg. There
is neither a record of the number he took with him on this ex
pedition, nor as to the particular route chosen by him; but from
the fact that " Wood's Gap" lies in the Blue Ridge between
Smith's branch of Dan river and the Little river branch of New
river, in Floyd county, we may reasonably suppose that he first
struck the river now known as New river not far from the
Blue Ridge, near the line of Virginia and North Carolina.
There can be but little doubt as to this gap being named after
him, and if so, this must have been his tread through what was
then a howling wilderness. Following Little river he must
have first discovered New river at the mouth of the former,
and finding a stream undiscovered before, doubtless called it
then and there "New River," which name it bears to this day.
As to the result of Colonel Wood's trip, or the fate of his
party of humble hunters whom he carried with him, but little
if anything is known. That it was not a successful one, so far
as any treaty with the Indians went, we are satisfied, because
they were extremely unfriendly to the next expedition which
went out, the guides refusing to conduct Captain Henry Batte's
followers into a certain section of the Southwest, inasmuch as
the Indians there were unfriendly to the whites. As Colonel
Wood's crowd of traders, with himself, were the only whites
who had crossed the Blue Ridge, then it was to this very party
the Indian guide was referring. So we naturally conclude that
Colonel Wood's efforts to establish anything like friendly re
lations were fruitless.
In 1666, Sir William Berkeley dispatched a Captain Batte,
with fourteen Virginians and fourteen Indians, to make an ex
ploration — all of whom started from Appomattox. What route
they pursued is not exactly known ; but, as we have stated,
' when they reached a certain point they refused to go farther,
under advice from their Indian guides. In his account of this
expedition mention is made by Captain Henry Batte of a river

4 * SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
flowing westward, which he pursued downward until he came
to some salt springs. Mr. John P. Hale, in his work, " Trans-
Alleghany , Pioneers," supposes this to have been in the Ka
nawha Valley, and the salt made at Campbell's Creek Salt
Spring. Nothing authentic has been obtained to support this
except extrinsic facts which Mr. Hale has so sensibly based his
supposition upon. At all events, it is known that Henry Batte
and his followers returned to the eastern portion ofthe colony,
for he made a report to Governor Berkeley of such a flattering
nature that the latter announced his determination of investi
gating the country himself, which would have been of infinite
service to the future descendants of these people, all of whom
have groped in darkness concerning the early history of this
country. Governor Spotswood and his knights of the " Golden Horse
shoe" penetrated this section, or at ldast the valley, at a point
known as Swift Run Gap, in 1716. In 1732, Joist Hite, John
Lewis, Bowman, Green, Chrisman, McKay, Stephens, Duff,
and others came in by way of Harper's Ferry ; and in 1734 Mor
gan, Allen, Moore, Shephard, Harper, and others settled in
that portion of the valley known as Shenandoah. From 1735
to 1738, Beverley, Christian, Patton, Preston, Burden, and
others settled west of the Blue Ridge. This Patton was the
Colonel Patton who in 1736 obtained a grant of 120,000 acres
of land west of the Blue Ridge, in the Valley of Virginia.' He
and his son-in-law, Colonel John Buchanan, located these lands
on James river, in what is known as Botetourt now, and the
villages, Buchanan and Pattonsburg, which, sprang up on the
opposite sides of the river, were respectively named after them.
A great many of their descendants now reside throughout this '
section of Southwest Virginia.
About 1744 one Thomas Ingles and his son William, then a
young man, made an exploration west ofthe Blue Ridge, and
while on this trip became acquainted with George Draper and
his family, who were residing at Pattonsburg, Virginia, on
James river. Some time afterwards, George Draper went on

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 5
a hunting expedition, and as he never returned, his family
thought that he was killed by the Indians. The after* lives,
history, and fate of the Drapers and Ingleses were so intimate
ly mingled and blended that anything touching them is of
interest. The next expedition of which we have any chronological
evidence was that of Dr. Thomas Walker, Colonel James
Patton, Colonel Buchanan, and others, in the year 1748, when
they travelled into Kentucky through Southwest Virginia. It
was during this trip that a pass was discovered by Colonel
Walker, who named it Cumberland Gap, in honor of the Duke
of Cumberland. The creek which flows into New river near
Major Cecil's, in Giles county, beyond Pembroke station, on
the New River railroad, was discovered during this expedition,
and tp this day bears the name of "Walker's creek." The
parallel ranges of mountains near by were also called in honor
of Colonel Walker. This party travelled across the Flat Top
mountain, which has since become celebrated for the quantity
and quality of its semi-bituminous coal. The object of this
expedition was to gain some insight into the country with
reference to obtaining a grant; for on their return "The Loyal
Land Company" was organized, based on a grant of 800,000
acres north of the line ofthe Carolinas and west ofthe moun
tains, and the company was incorporated June, 1749.
Heretofore these explorers went west of the Blue Ridge
merely for the purpose of discovery, and then returned east.
None of them crossed into the trackless wilderness for a per
manent residence, until some of the most daring and adventur
ous , ones determined at last to make a settlement in this
beautiful but wild country.
In 1748, after the return of the Patton party, Thomas Ingles
and his three sons, Mrs. Draper and her son and daughter,
Adam Ilarman, Henry Lenard, and James Burke moved west
ward, with the determination to cast their fortunes farther
west and make a permanent settlement. They chose one of
the loveliest spots imaginable for their home — that beautiful

6 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
and level plateau of fertile land on which the site of Blacksburg,
in Montgomery county, is now located. This point was called
west of the Alleghanies, but it^was west ofthe divide, or floor
of the valley raised, just as Massanutton mountain divides
Shenandoah Valley in two parts. Here these pioneers settled
and erected their crude residences of rough hewn logs, naming
the place "Draper's Meadows." Things went prosperously
along with them, and by their enconiums up1 on the fertility^-of
the country, splendid scenery and balmy climate, other 'settlers
were induced to come, among whom may be mentioned
William Harbison, George Hoopaugh, James Cull, and the
Lybrooks, who settled on Sinking creek, a short distance
below the New River White Sulphur Springs. All the settlers
were steadily at work engaged in clearing their lands and
making themselves as prosperous and happy as the ' state of
, their circumstances would admit. They were on the friendli
est terms with the Indians who occasionally passed- and repass
ed the settlement, without any hostile signs whatever. In ,
fact, except for one or two small depredations made against
Harman and Hoopaugh, there was perfect unanimity between
the two races.
But this pleasant state of affairs was not to continue. On
July 8, 1755, the day before the English army was so igno-
miniously defeated under General Braddock, the red-skins
made a raid upon this peaceful settlement, killing and wound
ing or capturing every living soul. Colonel Patton, Casper Bar- ,
ries, Mrs. George Draper, and a child of John Draper were
kilted, while Mrs. John Draper and Mrs. Cull were severely )
wounded. Mrs. William Ingles (ne'e Mary Draper), Mrs. John
Draper, and Henry Lenard were captured prisoners. James
Burke would doubtless have shared the fate of these people, but
hi 1754 he removed to that portion of the country, now known
as Tazewell, and made a settlement in the fertile valley, hemmed
in by mountains, known as " Burke's Garden," and justly cele
brated as one of the loveliest, and most charming places in
Southwest Virginia.

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 7
In connection with this raid there is recorded an incident
concerning Mrs. William Ingles which is sad and touching to
the last degree. This lady, one of the whites captured in the
Draper's Meadows raid, was the daughter of George Draper,
and married William Ingles, the son of Thomas Ingles.' She,
with her children and another lady, were conveyed by the
Indians down New river, thence by the Kanawha on into
Ohio to the camp ofthe Indians. During this trip Mrs. Ingles,
by her useful knowledge, adroit acts, and pleasant address, won
the esteem and respect of the Indians, who hoped also to ob
tain a handsome ransom for herself and children. During this
journey into Ohio Mrs. Ingles gave birth to another child, and
yet continued her march with the rest, exhibiting a nerve and
fortitude rarely seen in a woman. Being of an observant
nature, she watched the streams closely as she was marchipg
put, and so placed them in her rnind as to remember them dis
tinctly. Her final destination, Big Bone Lick, was at last reach
ed, and her sons having been previously taken from her, she
reached this place in company with only one white woman and
her infant babe at her breast. Here at this place she again
made herself very useful in making salt, and shirts for the
Indians out of the checked cloth purchased from the French
traders. While residing here, some seven hundred miles from
Draper's Meadows settlement, by the circuitous route which
they had to come by the rivers, she meditated and planned an
escape. She communicated her plans to the other woman,
who, although opposed at first on account of the dangers they
would have to encounter, finally consented. The parting from
her infant, which on the first blush might seem to savor of a
want of motherly feeling, was to save herself from a more de
grading and worse fate had she remained. With only a blanket
apiece and one suit of clothes on their backs, these females
plunged into the trackless forest and turned their faces home
ward, to walk seven hundred miles. To detail their various
adventures and sufferings, their wanderings up and down the
streams^ their subsistence on berries, wild fruits, and the pro-

8 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
ductions of the forest, their sore feet and intense physical suf
fering and mental anguish, would transgress our space. For
forty days Mrs. Ingles travelled, until worn out and exhausted,
she passed around the Anvil Cliffs at New River White Sulphur
Springs and came to Adam Harmon's place, who, hearing herv
cries in his corn-patch, recognized her, and took the tenderest
care of her until she could be reunited to her family. Her
travelling companion, who during their journey had threaten
ed to kill Mrs. Ingles, was afterwards found by Harmon and
safely conducted to the white settlement. This Adam Har
mon's place was located on the plateau where the hotel and
buildings of the New River White Sulphur1 Springs are situated
at present.
During the year 1755 Vass Fort was raided by the Indians
and some of the whites murdered. This stronghold was lo
cated about ten miles from Christiansburg, on the head waters
of Roanoke river, in Montgomery county. It was near this place
that Colonel Washingtpn, Major Andrew Lewis, and Captain
William Preston escaped from being attacked, in a wonderful
manner, by a mistake1 of orders given a band of Indians by their
chief, who had been stationed to attack Colonel Washington
and party. In return for this raid and other depredations11
committed by the Indians, in March, 1756, General Lewis, with
several gentlemen and Captain Montgomery's volunteer com
pany, made what is known as the Big Sandy expedition. They
all met at Camp Frederick, and starting out, proceeded by way
of Clinch river, Bear Garden, Burke's Garden, over Tug moun
tain, and down the Tug fork of Big Sandy, now in West Vir
ginia. For some reason this expedition accomplished nothing,
being unsuccessful, or perhaps ordered back. Certain it is,
these Ohio Shawhey Indians were never visited with the pun
ishment they deserved for their unwarranted attacks upon the
peaceful white settlers.
About this time the Ingleses, with their families, moved up
on New river, and constructed a fort at a place called Ingles'
Ferry, which point is about one mile from the present site of

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 9
Radford, up the river. The place is still in the possession of
Captain Ingles, a descendant of the family. During those
earlier days this point and Draper's Meadows settlement were
the places of departure for those seeking homes farther west.
In 1770 the county of Botetourt was formed from Augusta,
taking its name in honor of Lord Botetourt. Mr. William
Preston, who, in 1761, married Susanna Smith, of Hanover
county, was made surveyor of the county, which in those days
was a most lucrative post. He first resided at, his farm known
as "*¦ Greenfield," near Amsterdam, but subsequently removed
near the Draper's Meadows settlement to an estate which he
acquired in 1774, and in honor of his wife change/3 the name
ofthe place to Smithfield, which name it bore to the third and
fourth generations ofthe Preston family. The descendants and
connections of this family threw out its branches in all direc-
tions'from Smithfield, and settled much ofthe country around,
v among whom may be mentioned the Pattons, Prestons, Buch
anans, Thompsons, Madisons, Breckenridges, Peytons, Mc
Dowells, Floyds, Bowyers, Harts, Crittendens, Bentons, Hamp
tons, Johnsons, and many other noted people, who assisted in
building up their country and became worthy representatives
of Roanoke, Botetourt, Montgomery, Washington, and Smyth
counties, as well as other States.
Near Greenfield, in Botetourt county, a widow by the name
of Cloyd resided, with one son. She was killed by the Indians
prior to 1773, and when William Preston, with his family,
moved to Draper's Meadows settlement young Joseph Cloyd
accompanied them. He afterwards settled on Back creek,
west of New river, in that section of country which lies in the
county made in ! 1839, known as Pulaski. He was the father
of General Gordon Cloyd, David and Thomas Cloyd, and
grandfather of Colonel Joseph Cloyd, who, with his family,
owned the fine estates on Back creek, at the mountain known
as Cloyd's mountain, near which was fought the battle of
Cloyd's mountain, in 1864. These Cloyds were among the
first of settlers in Pulaski, and from that family, by intermar-

10 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
riage, connection, and descent, have sprung the Cloyds, Bells,
Kents, McGavocks, and Cowans — all now settled in Pulaski
county, and are representative people of Southwest Virginia.
Prior to 1758, one Colonel John Chiswell, who had killed a
man in a personal encounter, and who died in jail awaiting his
trial, discovered near New river, in that section of country now
known as Wythe county, some lead mines. These mines (now
known better by the name of Austinville) were the cause of
a fort being constructed in 1758 by the State, under the super
vision of Colonel William Boyd, who named it in honor of
Colonel Chiswell, his friend. In 1772 all of this section of
country was formed intp a new county, known as Fincastle —
named in honor of Lord Botetourt's country home in Eng
land — Fin-castle. This county was only in existence four years,
for in 1776 it was abolished, and the territory divided into new
counties, called Montgomery, Washington, and Kentucky.
The latter afterwards became the State known by that name.
It appears from the scanty records we have that some time
about the year 1763 the Indians were instigated by the French
who dwelt east of the Mississippi river to resist as much as
possible the settlement of the whites upon their western terri
tory. The French, being now out of all reach of the settle
ments, could give such advice with impunity. Their red
allies, into whose ears the poison of revenge had been poured,
bitterly resisted the white men in their onward march west
ward, and, although the tide continued to pour steadily in that
direction, each trail was marked with the blood of some pio
neer, drawn by the arrow or tomahawk of the Indian. As
time rolled on the disposition of the Indians grew more deter
mined to resist each new footstep made upon their happy hunt
ing-grounds by the pale-faces coming west. From first defend
ing their land, ,the Indians, finding the superiority they pos
sessed numerically, and the knowledge they had of the country,
became aggressive and committed every imaginable kind of
depredation upon their white neighbors. In order to check
these, an expedition under Colonel Bouquette was sent out,

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 11
which resulted in staying their atrocities for the while and the
recovery of three or four hundred white prisoners who had
been captured. In the following year (1765) a treaty of peace
• was concluded with them, made under the auspices of Sir Wil
liam Johnson, which for some time caused a cessation of hos
tilities between the two races. This treaty gave an impetus to
western emigration, and by 1772-'74 settlements of the country
were made all along this western region by the whites as far as
the Ohio river at several points, and the main tributary streams
and their smaller branches.
The levying of taxes by England at this juncture to support
the expenses of the French and Indian wars occasioned an out
cry from the colonists, who deemed such measures not only
. unjust, but onerous to the last degree. They protested strongly
against such legislation, and charged the English with insti
gating the Indians to resist, in order that a sufficient excuse
might appear for their withdrawal of the forces of the colony
from the east, where it is said the English desired to carry their
oppressive measures through. Although such may have been
the bona fide belief of the colonists, there is no evidence of any
such action by the English. Such a policy would have been
self-destructive on their part at that time.
At all events, bad feeling rose again between the races, and
several murders were committed. A white man was killed by
the Indians while he was in a trading boat above Wheeling
creek, and within a few days afterwards Captain Michael Cre
sap and party killed two Indians. This same captain and fol
lowers surprised an Indian camp lower down, and killed nearly
all, at the mouth of Captina. Some week or two afterwards,
in April, Daniel Greathouse with a party of whites attacked an
encampment of Indians near the mouth of Yellow creek, and,
after dosing them with whiskey, killed nearly all. Some of the
Indians slayed at each of these places were members of Logan's
family, and it was he who charged Captain Cresap with the
death of his kin. And about this time, to add fuel to the flame,
Bald Eagle, an old and friendly Delaware chief, was unjustifi-

12 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
ably murdered by some whites straggling around, and set up
in his canoe with a pipe in his mouth, and the barge sent drift
ing down the Monongahela river. The Indians became furious
at these murders, and it was evident that they meant to revenge
them. In the spring of 1874 they combined for aggressive
action. When the Indians seemed bent on hostile measures, mes
sages were first transmitted the governor, Lord Dunrriore, who
dispatched Colonel August McDonald with four hundred men
to make an expedition of a hostile nature into the Indian ter
ritory to occupy them at home and prevent their raids upon
the border settlements of the whites. But as this move failed
to accomplish its intended object, messengers were again sent
to Governor Dunmore, who afterwards summoned General
Andrew Lewis, of Botetourt county, with whom to advise con
cerning a campaign against the Indians. The result was an
army of two divisions was organized at once, one of which
was to be commanded by General Lewis, the other by Lord
Dunmore himself.
Organizing his forces in Augusta, Botetourt, and Fincastle
counties, General Lewis and his brother, Colonel Charles
Lewis, took command of the, army and rendezvoused at Camp
Union about September 1, 1774, and were to march from there
to the mouth ofthe Kanawha. Governor Dunmore < was to
collect his army in Frederick and Dunmore (now Shenandoah)
oounties and those adjacent thereto, go the northwest trail
over Braddock's route, by way of Fort Pitt, and thence down
the Ohio river, and meet General Andrew Lewis at the mouth
of the Kanawha.
On the 2d day of October General Lewis reached the Kana
wha river and waited anxiously for Lord Dunmore, who was
to have joined him at that time. Hearing nothing further from
the Governor, he sent some messengers up the Ohio river to
learn his whereabouts. Before these returned several scouts
arrived at his camp, on October 9th, with orders from Lord
Dunmore to cross the river and meet him in the Indian terri-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 13
tory in Ohio. For reasons substantially good Lewis disregarded
these messages, and at an early hour on the morning of the
10th gave orders for a general break-up of his camp, intending
to proceed at once across the river into the villages of the In
dians. But the red-skins saved him that irksome journey.
When ready to start he was confronted by an army of a
thousand braves commanded by their leaders, Logan, Red
Hawk, Blue Jacket, Eliinipsico, and several others. Here
took place the largest battle ever waged in this section of
the country between the whites and Indians — the memorable
battle of Point Pleasant — in which General Lewis won addi
tional laurels and came out victorious. In this fight Colonel
Charles Lewis, Colonel Field, and several other prominent
gentlemen were killed, and the wounded numerous, among
whom were Colonel William Fleming, John Field, Captains
Murray and McChannahan, Samuel Wilson, and others. Fifty-
three were killed and eighty-seven wounded in the white
army. The losses by death and wounds were greater among
the Indians.
The result of this battle was the bugle sound for the retreat
of the Indians before the whites. A substantial fort was
established at this point, and a kind of military school for the
training of the white settlers under Colonel Lewis introduced.
The Indians receded farther west, and the whites continued to
pour in. We hear of no further trouble in this section, except
occasional depredations of each race upon the other on the
frontier lines of civilization.
The man and general who so ably espoused and conducted
the cause of his race in those troublesome times deserves more
than passing notice. He was a man of stalwart frame and
stern manner and appearance. At the treaty of Fort Stanwix,,
the Governor of New York said of him: "He looks like the
genius ofthe forest, and the very ground seems to tremble under
him." , His military career was a memorable one. It began
with General Washington at Great Meadows and Fort Neces
sity, ending with his death just before the surrender of York-

14 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
ton, from a fever. He started for his home in Botetourt — now
Roanoke — but falling ill stopped at Colonel ,Buford's, east of
the Blue Ridge, where he breathed his last in the midst of
kind friends. He was brought home and interred on his estate,
"Dropmore," just outside of what is now the corporate limits
of Salem. No stone marks his resting-place nor points to the
stranger where he lies, and the weeds and grass around his
grave have a gentle sigh, as if rebuking Virginia and Roanoke
for failing to mark the resting-place of one who died for his
country. His acts have lived, and many worthy descendants
now residing in Roanoke and other counties revere his mem
ory and his deeds of greatness.
One ofthe descendants of General Andrew Lewis married a
Miss Tosh, of Roanoke county, formerly a part of Botetourt,
-from which it was taken in 1838. Between the years 1747
and 1767 George the III, King of England, granted to one
Thomas Tosh all that boundary of land from near Tinker
creek across to Roanoke river, on which is now situated the
city of Roanoke,- containing some 1650 acres. This family
was among the earliest settlers in this section, and Miss Jane
Tosh, the mother of Major Andrew Lewis and Thomas Lewis,
his brother, married a lineal descendant of General Andrew
Lewis of Revolutionary fame. Among the landed possessions
of t-his Tosh family was a grant from Thomas Jefferson, the
President. Many branches of this family are throughout the
country and assisted in settling it.
Among the depredations made by the Indians after the battle
of Point Pleasant was the raid on Burke's Garden, situated
in Tazewell county, which was taken from western Augusta
in the year 1799. James Burke, the original settler of this
lovely spot, had been killed; and subsequently, under license
of the " Loyal Land Company," William Ingles had taken up
the land. His son, Thomas Ingles, who was given an educa
tion notwithstanding his roving disposition, married Miss
Eleanor Grills, of Albemarle, and then located in Burke's
Garden. He lived apparently contented and happy here until

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 15
the year 1782, when a raid was made on his home by some
Indians commanded by "Black Wolf." Thomas Ingles was
away when their attack was made, and they carried off his
wife and children and two negro slaves, after firing his build
ings, which were soon reduced to ashes. Going to the nearest
settlement, which was in the " Rich Valley," on the north fork
of the Holston river, he gathered together some sixteen men,
and, returning, met Joseph Hix with a squad. Both forces
were placed under command of Captain Maxwell, and hot
pursuit began after the red-skins. Five days passed before the
Indians were overtaken, when they were attacked. Two of
Thomas Ingles' children were killed, and his wife, with her
infant, barely escaped. Captain Maxwell was shot, and died
shortly afterwards. The slaves escaped uninjured. The little
girl died on their way home from her injuries, and but for a
surgeon who met them at Clinch settlement, in company with
William Ingles, father of Thomas, from New river, Mrs.
Thomas Ingles would have probably died. The supposition is
that several Indians were killed in this engagement. , '
This blood-thirsty Black Wolf did his part faithfully in the
annals of raiding, by attacking and capturing white settlers,
who were powerless to resist him. The lovely spot known as
Abb's Valley, in the northern part of Tazewell county, and
which derived its name from Absalom Looney, who came from
Pattonsburg, in Botetourt county, was the scene of Black Wolf's
invasions on two dccasions. In 1784 he captured James Moore,
a son of James Moore, Sr., a resident of the valley, and convey
ing him to their territory in Ohio among the Shawanee towns,
kept him awhile, and then sold him to a white family near
Detroit, Michigan. Two years later a party of Shawanee In
dians, led by Black Wolf, made a second expedition into* Abb's
Valley and shot James Moore, Sr., who was salting his stock, and
rushing to his home, killed William and Rebecca Moore, his
children, and Mr. John Simpson, a hired man. Two hired
men fled and made their escape, but Mrs. Moore and her four
remaining children, with Miss Martha Evans, from Augusta,

16 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.

«

were captured and carried off. In their rapid retreat, the boy
John, being feeble ahd unable to proceed with ease, they killed
him in his mother's presence, and the baby wTas brained against
a tree a few days afterwards. On arriving at an Indian town
on the Scioto river, they learned that several of their braves
had been killed in an engagement with the whites, and yi a
spirit of brutal retaliation, Mrs. Moore and her eldest daugh
ter were tied to a stake, to be tortured to death by cremation..
An old Indian squaw, taking pity upon Mrs. Moore's suffer
ings, killed her with a tomahawk, while the daughter was
burned to death. Mary Moore, Miss Evans, and James Moore,
Jr., who was captured in 1784, were subsequently -ransomed in /
1789, and restored to their Virginia home.
In 1779 the third raid was made upon Abb's Valley by the
Indians, and Mrs. Andrew Davidson and three children, with
two hired youths, were captured and carried off. During their
journey westward Mrs. Davidson gave birth to a little girl,
who, being somewhat troublesome, was tossed into Tug river
by one of the Indians. When they reached the Indian towns
her little girls were tied to a tree, and, for sport to the Indians,
shot until death came to their relief. An Indian squaw-
taking possession of her remaining little boy started down the
river with him, when the canoe was overturned and he was
drowned. For several years Mrs. Davidson remained with a
white gentleman as a servant in his family, and finally her own
husband, who was in search of her, came to the house. She
recognized him, and being reunited they returned to Virginia.
Regarding the Point Pleasant battle and the subsequent
raids of the Indians, many writers have expressed the opinion
that they were justified in their attacks. Without going so. far
as to re-echo this opinion in full, justice compels the statement
that the Indian chieftain, Logan, had much to exasperate and
anger him. Always friendly to the white race; ever ready to
aid and assist them, even though h'is .countrymen taunted him;
furnishing them with meat and clothes when requested ; giving
them at all times the hospitality of his cabin and town, we do

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 17
not wonder that his blood boiled when the members of that
very race he so signally defended killed his family at Captina
and Yellow Creek, apparently without cause. That the Indian
chieftain smarted severely under it there can be no doubt; for
though afterwards. he assented to the treaty of peace, his cele
brated speech is only too indicative of his harrowed state of
mind. As a piece of oratory this speech will bear repetition.
He said:
' ' I appeal to any white man to say if he ever entered Logan's cabin hungry,
and he gave him not meat ; if ever he came cold and naked, and he clothed
him not. During the course of the last long and bloody war Logan remained
idle in the cabin, an advocate of peace. Such was my love for the whites
that my countrymen pointed as they passed, and said : ' Logan is the friend
of the white man.' I have even thought to have lived with you, but for the
injuries of one man. Colonel Cresap, the last spring, in cold blood and un
provoked, murdered all the relations of Logan, not even sparing my women
and children. There runs not a drop of my blood in the veins of any living
creature. This called on me for revenge. I have sought it ; I have killed
many ; I have fully glutted my vengeance. For my country I fully rejoice
at the beams of peace. But do not harbor a thought that mine is the joy of
fear. Logan never felt fear. He will not turn on his heel to save his life.
Who is there to mourn for Logan ? Not one."
Dr. Doddridge's account of Dunmore's war clearly excul
pates the Indians from any blame whatever, saying that the
killing by Cresap and Greathouse was cold-blooded murder.
The reason assigned by the Doctor (and denied by him as true)
for the whites attacking the Indians, was the Indians were re
ported to have stolen some horses from land-jobbers on the
Ohio and Kanawha rivers. He says :
" In the month of April, 1774, a rumor was circulated that the Indians had
stolen several horses from some land-jobbers on the Ohio and Kanawha
rivers. No evidences of the fact having been adduced, led to the conclusion
that the report was false. This report, however, induced a pretty general
belief that the Indians were about to make war upon the frontier settlements ;
but for this apprehension there does not appear to have been the slightest
foundation." The Doctor, however, does not prove, in his account of the
war, that a white man was not killed by the Indians in a canoe
two days before Captain Cresap attacked the Indians at Cap-

18 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
tina. The weight of evidence is very strong in favor of the
fact that the slaying of the white settler in the canoe was the
moving cause of Captain Cresap's attack. Nothing, however,
can justify Greathouse in his mode of proceedure when he made
the Indians drunk at Baker's and murdered them.
After the raids made by the Indians in Abb's Valley, which
we have adverted to, peace seemed to have been restored in a
measure throughout this section, and the tide of emigration
steadily moved westward. The Indians are like the rattlesnake
in two particulars. They are extremely treacherous, and al
ways mysteriously disappear before settlements made by the"
Caucasian race — not, however, though (like the rattlesnake),
before they have given many a poisonous. sting. Gradually all
that section of Augusta county now composing several coun
ties, was settled up and various names given them. In 1786,
Russell county was formed, which lies in the heart of trie Blue
Grass country. In 1790, Wythe county was inaugurated; in
1793, Grayson; in 1806, Giles; in 1814, Scott; in 1831, Floyd;
in 1831, Smyth ; in 1842, Carroll ; in 1858, Buchanan ; in 1861,
Bland ; iu 1880, Dickenson. These latter counties, with the
ones already discussed, compose Southwest Virginia, as we will
see later on. All of these counties were settled by the same
* class of hardy, honest, worthy people pouring in from the East
to take up lands and establish a permanent abiding place for
themselves and families.
In the earlier days, before civilization fled westward and car
ried in its train the comforts and luxuries of life, these people
were crude and primitive in the extreme. Necessarily, having
no courts of justice, they were in a measure a law unto them
selves. Did any member commit a crime, or injure a neigh
bor, he was treated with such contempt by the rest of the set
tlers that he either amended his ways or left the community to -
avoid the open contempt exhibited towards him. Every man
was expected to uphold law and order, and the small number
of-people living in this section in those earlier days made each
and every one a conspicuous character in the eyes of his neigh-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 19
bor. It was impossible for him to commit a civil or moral
wrong without his being seen and known by all near that set
tlement. Debts, which in our day create such an uproar of ex
citement, bothered the earlier settlers but little, for having no
legal tender except an exchange of labor, products, and rude
manufactures, a man was only required to fill his bargain. Con
tracts were held by public sentiment inviolate, and an implied
agreement was well settled between each and every one. that
all should band together in defending themselves from the In
dian, whom they held as their common foe.
In matters of morals these earlier settlers were in many
things staunch and true. Honor was regarded as a purchasing
commodity, and so treated — that is, binding on each and every
one. Female chastity was protected by a most stringent code
— the shedding of the blood of the betrayer or seducer by the
relatives of the girl ruined, with impunity. Sabbaths were ob
served by the assembling together of the settlers in some par
ticular house, where prayers were said and sermons heard. For
lying, any dishonesty, idleness, or ill-fame, the punishment was
what we might term " hating the offender out," as the earlier
settlers expressed it. This savors somewhat of the old-time
custom ofthe Greeks.
The first settlers, so far as we have any light upon the sub
ject, mortally detested anything in the nature of theft, and
said peremptorily : "A thief must be whipped." They carried
out their ultimatum in this respect and inflicted this summary
punishment upon the offender, as Moses directed, by giving
him forty lashes less one. This punishment was followed by
exile of the guilty party. When magistrates came into power
in the west, they kept up this punishment always for petty
thieving until the barbarism was duly abolished by law.
Ladies who were given to evil speaking, lying, and slandering
were accorded the same right they have to this day — to speak
as much as they desired, and the punishment was the same as
.now — nobody believed one word they said.

20 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
These people were freely given to hospitality in those rude
days to all entering their houses, be he ever so much a stranger.
Their homes, bread, raiment, and property were ungrudgingly
given, and every shield of protection thrown around the guest.
In their settlements and forts they lived, worked, feasted,
fasted, prayed, and cursed in one cordial harmony, never be
traying or injuring one another wantonly in name, reputation,
and fame, until the small envies and jealousies of rejined civili
zation came — the latter always having its evils with the good.
The means of subsistence of these earlier pioneers were
scanty in the extreme when compared with the luxuries of the
present day. Hunting was more an occupation of necessity
then than of pleasure, and after summer seasons, when all had
been extracted from the ground that was possible in the way
of breadstuffs, the men became impatient at home and formed
hunting parties, encamping out for weeks, and preyed upon the
plentiful supply of game in the forests in those early days. Often
they were without bread and had to go out in the morning to
find their breakfast. As the country became more populated
and civilization advanced, game, with the Indians, gradually
receded, and the cultivation of the soil and raising hogs,
poultry, and cattle took the place of hunting, and much more .
than supplied the want caused by insufficiency of game.
The mechanical arts, too, were seen and carried on in their
infancy. The dwellings were constructed of logs, in their forest
nativity, after being cut; and wdio is it that does not remember
the many tales of " house-raisings " which have been told, de
scribing how these old people all about the settlement would
congregate and assist in the " house-raising" ? The clapboards
covering the dwelling, and flooring of the same, were rude and
uncouth, while the very furniture itself was constructed on the
same principles. Knots of trees and timbers were curiously
wrought into bowls of all sizes and shapes ; wooden spoons and
platters were the order ofthe day; and all other vessels used in
a domestic way were manufactured from the products of the!
forest. Labor, produce raised, and wild game were given in

, SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 21
exchange for these manufactured goods, and the only currency
which these people used in trading with the East were furs and
peltry. They were primitive in the extreme, yet on the whole
hale, happy, and hearty, when not actually engaged in Indian
warfare. ' All farming utensils were made of wood — the plows,
harrows, cooper ware, and sledges. The stripe of red and white
cedar wood was regarded as beautiful and deemed a kind of
luxury. The looms which made the cloth were constructed by
the inhabitants of wood, and from them the simple material
was made whieh covered their nakedness ; and the shoes worn
were made by themselves, from the thread they spun from the
cotton and flax to the hides tanned in their own vats. The
medicines used in cases of sickness were extracted from various
kinds of herbs and roots, the medicinal properties of which
were always familiar to some member of each community.
In the latter part of the eighteenth and earlier part of the
nineteenth century the onward march of emigrants in South
west Virginia, with the gradual departure of the Indians farther
west, opened up a new era for this country. These forefathers
of the present people, who displayed rare powers of endurance
and patience under extreme suffering, who battled every inch
of ground they tilled with a savage race, proved themselves in
time of peace industrious, energetic, and worthy citizens.
They gradually improved and cultivated their lands so dearly
earned until peace and plenty crowned them with success and
they possessed a surplus of the productions of the soil, which
they exchanged with their eastern neighbors for many of the
comforts and luxuries of life. The means to gratify suggested
wants to the descendants which never occurred to the fore
fathers. The dwelling houses were constructed on a larger
and better scale; the furniture was more comfortable and
luxurious; their dress, as well as manners, continued to im
prove, until the year 1860 found the people of this section
in a comfortable, improved condition every way — blessed with
a soil of plenty, and numerous advantages unknown to them
selves or unheard of as yet. Municipal law had come in to

22 SOUTHWEST ArIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
protect the weak and punish the wrong; schools were opening
up in which the minds as well as morals of the youths were
trained; and houses of religious worship sprang up on all
sides, disseminating the seed of Christianity in every di
rection, which has ever been tho one purifying element in
this world. Slavery, a badge of intense wrong, was the only
blighting wind which retarded the growth of the country, and
soon that was to be swept away amidst carnage and smoke, the
disappearance of which left the horizon clearer than ever.

CHAPTER II.
The great valley — Southwest Virginia a part of it — Territorial limits of
Southwest Virginia — Its geological formation — Its scenery, climate,
agricultural and mineral resources — Its advantages as a manufacturing
centre.
THERE is a large section of country extending for hundreds
of miles, from the Hudson river, at Newburg, to the Ten
nessee river, beyond Chattanooga. This is called the Great
Limestone Valley, and is the main thoroughfare north and
south, through which many different systems of railway extend,
opening up almost every part of it. This valley has various
names inthe different States through which it passes, and marks
the portion it traverses as the most highly favored. It is called
in New York State the Walkill Valley, in eastern Pennsylvania
the Kittatinny Valley, in middle Pennsylvania the Lebanon or
Cumberland Valley, in Virginia the Shenandoah Valley and
the valley of Southwest Virginia. There has been some dis
cussion among writers as to what section of Virginia really
comprises the Southwest. The tide-water, Piedmont, and
south side of the State are well defined, but not so with this
great section about which we are writing, and which has
created the utmost wonder and surprise among the whole peo
ple by its almost magic growth and development. By some it
is contended that all the territory southwest of Lynchburg is
the section of which we are speaking; by others, that the South
west is only that section of country comprising all the counties
southwest from Roanoke county, beginning on the top of the
table-lands in Montgomery county and including all the water
shed of New river and the Holston, embracing the great blue
grass section of the State.
Not entering into any controversy as to the geographical
positions taken above, there can be but little doubt of the facts

24 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
that the word Southwest is a key to the situation, and that
Southwest Virginia, from the natural position of the country
itself, is composed of all those counties lying south of James
river and west of the Blue Ridge mountains. It is bounded on
the north by James river, south by Tennessee and North Caro
lina, east by the Blue Ridge mountains, and west by the States of
West Virginia and Kentucky. The counties composing it are : a
part of Botetourt, Roanoke, Craig, Montgomery, Floyd, Pulaski,
Giles, Bland, Wythe, Carroll, Grayson, Smyth, Tazewell, Buch
anan, Dickenson, Russell, Washington, Scott, and Wise.
These counties contain an area of some 5,973 square miles,
and has territory and extent enough to Contain and support a
population many times as large as it is at present. In the ex
treme Southwest, where the counties of Dickenson, Scott, and
Wise lie, there are but few people, comparing the' number with
its immense space, and almost unbounded resources yet to be
come developed. In this section of Southwest Virginia there
are 5,771,454 acres of land on which taxes are paid.
Geographically, this country is most happily situated. Al
most the centre of it is pierced by a part of that line which
sooner or later will be the great direct thoroughfare from east
to west, running from the seacoast at Norfolk, through Lynch
burg, Radford, Louisville, St. Louis, Kansas City, and on west.
This route by correct estimate is seventy miles nearer from
Norfolk to California than New York to California, and one
hundred and thirty miles closer than any line could be run
from Boston to San Francisco. In this progressive age and
generation time has become a commodity of such value that
every few miles in a projected railway of unnecessary distance
presents an obstacle to be seriously considered. The comple
tion of the Roanoke and Southern railroad (the Elkhorn ex
tension of the Norfolk and Western, both of which are ijow
under construction) will give this section a complete north
western and southwestern outlet, while the Shenandoah Valley
and Cripple Creek extension of the Norfolk and Western give
it direct northern and southern connections.

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.

25

In giving the geological formation of the country, we shall
trust to others whose professional life in that line enables them
to speak with judgment and confidence. The various .stratas
underneath the surface of the earth on which the inhabitants
tread are full of those valuable ingredients which create ores,
such as lead, iron, zinc, coal, manganese, and many other
varieties, while the" surface itself is capable ofthe highest yield
in the fruits ofthe earth when properly tilled,
This country is but a division of the Great Limestone Valley
of which we have spoken, and everywhere throughout its
course presents outcrops of the lower palezoic formations.
These formations rest upon the primary rocks of the moun
tains, which in this region flank the valley on the south and
constitute the rocks of Grayson, Carroll, Pulaski, Wythe, and
other counties. Many names have been given the members of
the upper series, as well as numbers in the States through
which they pass ; but this is the most easily understood scale
of their classification which we have ever seen. It is numbered
from below upwards :

XIII. Coal measures proper
XII. Conglomerate . .
XI. Umbral red shale ....
X. Vespertine gray sandstone
IX. Ponent red sandstone . .
VIII. Vergent shale, &c. . .
VII. Meridial sandstone
VI. Pre-meridal limestone .
V. Scalent red shale and fossil
IV. Levant sandstone . .
III. Material slates . . .
II. Material limestone . .
I. Primal slates and sandstone
Primary rocks* . ...

[ Carboniferous.

[• Devonian.
[¦ Upper Silurian.
> Lower Silurian.
Azoic (arch sen).

The principal members of the foregoing series with which
any mineralogist or geologist has to deal in examination of.
minerals in this section are comprised in the three lowest
formations — -Nos. I, II, III — the Potsdam sandstone, Cambro-

* The New-River Cripple Creek Mineral Region. (Page 5.)

26 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
Silurian limestone, and the Hudson-river slates, all of which,
as is readily seen, are embraced in the division called "Lower
Silurian." This country, taking its whole surface, is not surpassed by
any other under the sun for natural beauty of scenery, soil,
lumber, or mineral resources. Whether we speed along the
succulent valley between Roanoke and Carnegie City, walled ,
in by mountains north and south; whether we cross the floor
of this great valley between Shawsville aud Christiansburg,
amidst the mountain ravines and precipitous passes ; whether
we go up to the New river plateau, in Floyd, Grayson, and
Carroll, or along weird, winding New river into Pulaski, Giles/
and Tazewell, we. have every delightful prospect of beauty and
natural wealth which the eye can desire or the taste suggest.'
The elevated Blue Ridge division, separated from the valley
by the westerly bifurcation of the Blue Ridge, under the names
of Pilot Mountain, Poplar Camp, and Iron Mountains, presents
every imaginable delightful feature of the greatest interest
to either the most scientific geologist or practical miner. The
perfect system of drainage, the ledges and bands of rock strata,
the heavy deposits of ores and minerals, seem to have been
created on the grandest scale, and the intervention of rich, suc
culent farming and grazing lands make the whole a country
which is fast gaining the attention of investors, and a charm
ing place in which to reside.
There is scarcely anything in nature which appeals so strongly
to the sense of sight as varied and beautiful scenery. The
Southwest is peculiarly fortunate in this respect. In traversing
the line of the Norfolk and Western railroad a panorama of
different scenes greet the eye almost every moment as the train
whirls along westward from Roanoke. The lovely valley,
dotted here and there with its comfortable farm-houses and
rich fields of corn and green pastures; the blue hills on either
side stretching in a rugged manner in every direction; the
towns resting in the valley — once quiet, but now active and
busy; the mountain ravines and precipitous gorges, over-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 27
hanging vales which sweep away in graceful folds of hillock
and dale; the towering heights of cragged peaks, often capped
with snow, all together make up a scene which must be viewed
with the naked eye in order to be appreciated. After leaving
Radford, upon the New River division of the Norfolk and
Western railroad, which runs through Pulaski, Giles, and
Tazewell in order to tap the coal region of the Southwest and
West Virginia, the scenery becomes grander and more weird,
until it culminates in gorges and cliff's, like Caesar's Arch and
Pompey's Pillar, and steep rocks two hundred and ninety-eight
feet high, with a base one hundred and fifty feet deep in the
river, opposite the New River White Sulphur Springs.
The Peaks of Otter, in Bedford; Angel's Rest, in Giles, and
Ball Knob, with the celebrated Mountain Lake near, are places
which if once seen are never forgotten on account of their lovely
views and the charming scenery surrounding them. Surely, in
the choice of a resting-place in this world where one would
like to pass his days, it is a matter of great interest and gratifi
cation to know that one dwells in a country which is so situated
in varied and unique scenery as always to charm the eye and
never weary the gaze. The idea that the inhabitants of this
section become so accustomed to all this grandeur as to be
unimpressed by it is totally erroneous. Take them away from
their native heath, and the first void created will be the absence
of all these lovely views and the everlasting hills.
This section of country of which we are writing lies between
0° and 8° west longitude from Philadelphia and 36° 30' and
40° 30' north latitude. From its position longitudinally and
latitudinally the climate must necessarily be salubrious and
healthy. This portion of Virginia which lies in the regions of
the middle latitudes possesses a climate of means between
the extremes of heat and cold incident to the other States south
and north of it. The idea prevalent to many strangers that this
part of Virginia is very warm during the summer is entirely
unjust, for a healthier, more salubrious, and pleasant climate
does not exist than the summer seasons of this portion ofthe

28 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
Old Dominion. The days are fresh from the heavy mountain
dews which fall at night, and it is always pleasant in the
months of July and August to sleep under covering of some
"kind at night.
But certain it is, whatever may be the* carping criticisms as
to the summer's heat in Southwest Virginia, people disbelieve
them ; for during that very season thousands and thousands
pf persons from north, south, east, and west emigrate to the
Roanpke Red Sulphur Springs, Lake Spring, the Montgomery
White Sulphur Springs, the Alleghany, the Yellow Sulphur,
the New River White Sulphur, Mountain Lake, Wytheville,
Glade Springs and Abingdon — all of which places are in this
section. These pleasure-seekers all say that the healthy and
salubrious climate, the cool nights and delightful days, are the
main objects which draw them here, and as they a're impartial
we rest perfectly satisfied with their verdict. But in order
that everyone may know the temperature of this country, a
table is here submitted, carefully compiled, giving the average
state of the climate :
January  25° July  73°
February .... 37 August  , . . . . 71
March : . .43 September  63
April . . . . . 52 October  54
May . . . .... 61 November  42
June  68 December . .... 35
The average for the seasons is:
Spring ... ... 52° Autumn ... .53°
Summer  70.6 Winter  ' 32.3
Average for the year, 53°.
This climate compares most favorably with the famous
health resorts of Europe, such as Geneva, Turin, Vienna,
Milan, Weisbaden. The mean temperature of Geneva and
Vienna is : Spring. Summer. Autumn. Winter.
Geneva . . . 52.2° 70.03° 54.2° 34.0°
Vienna ... 56.2 71.8 54.6 38.7
Mean for the year : Geneva, 52.07° ; Vienna, 55.3°
This favorable comparison is demonstrative proof that the
climate of Southwest Virginia is not only a healthy, equable

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. ' 29
temperature, but an absolutely pleasant one to the human
sense. All doubting Thomases will please examine the fore
going tables and be silent.
There are two other features connected with this climate
which it is just to mention. Owing to the mountains the inhab
itants are entirely free from all malarial fever, chills, ague, and
that debility which exists in the lower countries around and
saps the vital energies of the human race. Again, such de
structive agencies as tornadoes, cyclones, and terrific storms are
unknown here, for the grand old mountains which furnish
varying scenery for the eye act as a wall to break and retard
the force of these sweeping destroyers which have infested our
western sister States, often leaving woe and desolation in their
train. There is another phase connected with the climate of South
west Virginia which is different from that of other countries.
Generally speaking, when we proceed westerly on the same
parallel of latitude the climate becomes colder y as it does if we
advance northwardly. But not so is this climate. It is the
case to a very slight degree until the summit of the Allegha-
nies is reached, but advancing westwardly from that point the
temperature becomes milder and milder, until it is even warmer
in winter than on the sea-coast. This is proven from the fact
that catalpas grow spontaneously as far as latitude 37°, reeds as
far as 38°, while paroquets grow iii winter on the Scioto; in the
39th degree of latitude. A greater portion of Southwest Vir
ginia is west of the Alleghany range, and becomes warmer as
we proceed west. This accounts for the fact'that the tempera
ture at Wytheville is even milder in a slight degree than that
of Radford or Dublin, both of which are east of the former
place. The ndrtheast and northwest winds have more effect upon
a climate than is generally supposed, regarding the health and
delightfulness of it. The northeast is often loaded and
charged with vapor, has a chiiling, unhappy, and depressing
effect upon the human system, while the northwest is dry,

30 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
elastic, bouyant, and animating, causing the spirits of human
beings to be almost always in the ascendency. In the moun
tains of the Southwest the northwest wind prevails, which in a
measure accounts for the hale, hearty, and bluff appearance of
the stalwart mountaineers.
Although the months of July and August are the hottest in
the year, they are generally the healthiest, because the weather
is dry and less liable to change than in the other months.
The fluctuations between heat and cold, so destructive gen
erally to fruit in the early spring season, prevail much less in
Virginia than in Pennsylvania and other States; and the rivers
overflow in this period in Virginia a great deal less than in the
New England States, because the snows in the former do not
Jie so long and accumulate so largely as they do in the latter,
to be dissolved all at once in the spring, causing frequent, and
often disastrous, inundations and floods. The snows in this
section are rarely deep — never lasting longer than a few days —
often disappearing under the mild rays of the winter's sun in
twenty-four hours.
The extremes of heat and cold, after a careful investigation,
show the temperature at 93° above, and 6° below zero, in
Fahrenheit's thermometer.
Droughts are rarely experienced in this charming country
on account of the heavy mountain dews and frequent gentle
rainfalls. Timothy, orchard grass, and other forages for hay,
which require a given amount of moisture, grow luxuriantly
here. In Eastern Virginia, owing to the dry seasons in sum
mer, these grasses suffer, but never here. The rainfall is fre
quent in summer, consisting principally of mountain showers,
which, owing to the natural drainage of the country, seldom;
occasions any inconvenience, as the surplus water runs off
quickly, leaving the grass and herbage fresh and luxuriant.
The following statistics will give some idea of the average rain
fall during the year.

Spring.

Summer,

Autumn.

Winter.

Year.

10.7

11.9

9.6

9.7

41.9

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 31
Owing to the salubriousness of the climate and the health
of the inhabitants of this country, a gentleman who has exam
ined this portion of Virginia minutely, and written much upon
the subject, says:
»"We would call attention to the fact that the Blue Ridge region of Vir
ginia is, as can be proven by the testimony of consumptives fully restored to
health, the best sanitarium inthe United States east ofthe Mississippi." *
While we are not prepared to assert that this climate is a
cure for consumptives, we most unhesitatingly state that we
know of none superior in the South, or any other country.
The climate plays no small part in the restoration to health of
those persons who every year visit Virginia and her watering
places, seeking relief from the ravages of disease and various
bodily ailments. Its animating and invigorating effect; its
freedom from northeast winds, which chill and depress; the
entire absence of all malaria from it, renders it a charming
temperature in which to reside, or in which to earn the daily
bread of life.
The soil in this section of country is somewhat varied as to
its productions, but universally productive. In Roanoke, Bote
tourt, Montgomery, and Floyd the growing of cereals, vegeta
bles, hay, and fruit predominates over " grazing" or cattle-
raising, although the latter class of farming is extensively car
ried on; but in the counties of Pulaski, Tazewell, Giles, Wythe,
Carroll, Russell, Wise, Washington, Scott, and Buchanan — the
natural home of indigenous blue grass — the business of stock-
raising is the chief mode of farming or tilling the land. These-
latter counties send from their borders every year to market
numerous herds of fine cattle, flocks of sheep, and some horses,
which find their way into the Baltimore, Philadelphia, and
New York markets. Some ofthe largest cattle men, like Mr.
A. H. Stuart and Henry C, his son, of Russell, Charles W.
Palmer, of Saltville, and James W. Byars, of Washington
county, ship cargoes of live stock to Europe.
* Jed Hotchkiss, in The Virginias, June, 1884.

32 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
In the counties of Roanoke and Botetourt, Craig and Mont
gomery, the soil is a rich, loamy, chocolate clay, generally
speaking, and is admirably adapted to the production of wheat,
Indian corn, oats, barley, rye, buckwheat, hay, and vegetables
of every description. Fruits of almost all varieties flourish in
these counties, and the result is that in Roanoke and Botetourt,
especially, the industries of canning fruit and vegetables have
become not only extensive ones, but extremely remunerative to
the persons engaged in them. Some of the brands of these
canning establishments have gained a national reputation
almost, and are sold all over the country. Not only does this
business consume large quantities of fruit and vegetables, but
gives employment to a large number of operatives necessary to
carry on the factories. In addition to the fruit consumed by
these, large quantities are shipped annually for foreign con
sumption. Going westward from the counties we have just been discus
sing the soil will be found somewhat different. In Floyd,
Carrpll, Wythe, Grayson, Washington, and Pulaski it is a free
stone, with here and there a character of limestone. It results
from a decomposition in situ of large bands of granitoid rock,
gneiss, hornblende, aluminous slates, shales, feldspars — in fact,
it possesses all the wide range of silicates of alumina, potash,
lime, soda, and iron. Tazewell county is but little different,
possessing a richer loam, which is better for grazing purposes.
In all of these counties large crops of fruit are grown, and
some exported. Wythe, Smyth, and Washington counties are
famous for their broad areas of cabbag*, which is grown in
large quantities and shipped to foreign markets.
But when we speak of agricultural resources we allude more
to the capacity of a country for production than to what is"
being actually produced. No region, in the matters of location
soil, climate, and natural advantage, is superior to this for agri
cultural purposes. In this wonderful development now going
on the production of agricultural products will advance with
-the demand. In the valleys and. along the mountains the soil

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 33
is capable of the highest productive capacity, and the day is
not far distant when all this land lying, comparatively speak
ing, in waste now will be thoroughly utilized and cultivated to
an advantage and profit.
There are two industries beginning to dawn in this section
which bids fair to become extremely large and productive.
We allude to dairy-farming and the planting of vineyards.
Xo country can be more suitable to the production of milk,
butter, and cheese than this far-famed blue grass section, in
which cattle thrive so fast and yield such an abundance of
milk from the peculiar fattening properties of this grazing.
From a surplus of milk to the manufacture of cheese is but a
step, which we have reason to believe will soon be bridged
over. The southern slopes of the mountains are in many in
stances being utilized as vineyards, an industry which can be
rendered extremely profitable, not only from the sale of the
grapes, but the manufacture of wines.
The abundant opportunities to farmers with small capital
in this eountry cannot be overlooked much longer, and those
who are in possession of these lands have now an opportunity
of realizing as much from the slopes of the mountains as their
more fortunate neighbors have from the valleys. We know
of no soil so capable of producing large crops of cabbage and
the Irish potato as this mountain land in Southwest Virginia,
to say nothing of it as a fruit-growing region.
Not only are the lands of this section well adapted for the
production of all the necessaries of life in ample abundance,
but the location of a greater portion of the agricultural country
will satisfy the most fastidious taste of those having an eye for
the beautiful. The James River Valley, situated in Botetourt;
the valley westward of Roanoke ; the plateau of country lying
around Blacksburg, in Montgomery county ; the level lauds of
Pulaski about Dublin and Pulaski City, where the celebrated
Blue Ridge country begins ; the beautiful meadows in Wythe,
and the justly celebrated Burke's Garden, in Tazewell county,
all present agriculturally a picture of scenic beauty, and splen-

34 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
did appearance of fertility equally as true. As stock-breeding
and raising is one of the staple industries of this section, we
can form some idea of its agricultural resources in this respect
by adding a table giving the exact number of each kind in the
live-stock department. Theu by computing the number of
horses we get an estimate of the extent of the tillage of the
section. Southwest Virginia has 50,963 horses, 154,931 cattle,,
107,565 sheep, 116,546 hogs. The blue-grass counties have by
far a larger portion of this live stock, the county of Russell
alone having 15,093 cattle.
There is one industry which, though rapidly gaining ground,
has still the opportunity and means of becoming one of the
largest of its kind in the Southwest — that is, sheep-raising, and
in connection therewith, wool-growing. All along the slopes,
and even upon the plateaus on top of the mountains, there is
the finest character of grazing for sheep. Wherever the trees
are cut, and the sun allowed to penetrate with its rays, an in
digenous, rich, succulent grass comes, and the whole surface
after a while becomes sodded. Sheep of the better grade, for
both mutton and wool, thrive well, and experience shows that
there is a handsome profit in raising them. In the near future
this must necessarily become one of the largest sources of rev
enue which the agriculturist will have to draw upon.
The rapid growth of towns and cities like Roanoke, Salem,
Christiansburg, Radford, Pulaski City, Wytheville, Max Mea
dows, and others throughout this section, has given an impetus
to an industry agriculturally hitherto almost unknown — the
trucking business, or market gardening. Wherever there is a
demand, the supply for it inevitably follows ; and the require
ment of vegetables and small fruits by the inhabitants of the
foregoing cities can be fully supplied from the country around,
because the seasons and soil produce almost every kind that is
known, and in sufficient profusion to supply the wants of all.
It is conceded by all who have a knowledge upon the sub
ject that Southwest Virginia is one of the richest countries in
mineral resources in the United States. Not only are minerals

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 35
of almost every variety found in the mountains here, but they
are sufficient in quantity and vastly superior in quality. In
General Imboden's " Mineral Wealth of Virginia" he says :
" Between the Atlantic coast and the western boundaries of the State the
whole ' geological column ' is represented, *from the foundation granite to
the capstones of the upper carboniferous. And in these successive strata are
found rocks and minerals peculiar to each all over the world, and usually in
greater abundance and of greater excellence than anywhere else in the same
area." McCreath and D'Invilliers, in their report upon " The Min
eral Wealth of Cripple Creek and New River," have this to
say concerning the country as a mineral territory:
" The New river-Cripple creek mineral region may be assumed to contain
three hundred square miles, probably one-half of which may be considered
as ore-bearing territory. While it would be injudicious, from the very nature
of the occurrence of the brown hematite ore-deposits everywhere, to estimate
the tonnage that any single square mile of this territory would yield, yet it
must be manifest from the details given in this report that the total amount
of iron ore to be mined in the region will be very great. The quality,
uniformity, and richness of the ore is unsurpassed by any other developed
brown hematite iron-ore district. The accessibility of the ore deposits to the
Cripple Creek extension, and their proximity in a large part of the field to
unusually good washing facilities, as well as the small cost of mining the ore
itself, should result in the production of a cheap and well-prepared ore for
furnace use. The occurrence here of a first-class and cheaply-mined ore ;
the proximity of a magnificent coking field, with limestones for fluxing pur
poses everywhere throughout the region ; with a constant supply of pure
water ; surrounded by a fertile agricultural and grazing district capable of
supporting a large population, and with numerous eligible sites for manufac
turing purposes, this New river-Cripple creek region certainly offers unusual
advantages for the investment of capital."
This region so rich in ores is situated in Wythe, Pulaski,
Carroll, and Grayson. Floyd, too, an adjoining county, is rich
. in ores.
In this New river-Cripple creek mineral region an iron ore
of peculiar quality has been found, termed Gossan ore. It gives,
when mixed with other iron ores a peculiarly good character
to the iron, while by itself it produces an admirable iron. It
is one ofthe most important discoveries found in the South, in

36 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
the way of iron ore, and it is admitted to be the only "red short
ore" that has been found south of Mason and Dixon's line.
Mixed with the brown ores, it gives a first-class iron for foundry
or mill purposes, and permits the use of thousands of tons of
high phosphorus aud manganese ores that could never be util
ized successfully by themselves. By means of the Reed Island
extension, completed about June, and the Cape Fear and Yad
kin Valley extension, finished this last summer, this ore is
available for most of the furnaces situated around. By the
means of this they will be in a position to make, as they wish,
either a red, cold short, or neutral iron — stimulating to a very
high degree the establishment of industries requiring as raw
material cheap as well as varied classes of pig-irons, and by so
doing build up wonderful adjuncts to the furnaces established.
-The analysis of the iron ores compare most favorably with that
of any other ore we know of mined anywhere. McCreath and
D'Invilliers, in their report mentioned above, give the analyses
of various openings made throughout this favored section. We
give several, as an average sample, showing the quality ofthe ore.
From samples taken from a ton lying at Cedar creek open
ing it yielded :
Metallic iron . .  . . r . 57.300
Phosphorus ....  • .045
Siliceous matter  ....  4.620
Phosphorus in 100 parts of iron ...  .078
In the Buddlefield tract samples clipped from all along the
ore surface yielded :
Metallic iron . . .  . . . . 57.700
Phosphorus  .058
Siliceous matter  . :'  4.280
Phosphorus in 100 parts of iron  .100
On the Widow Stephens' tract, from a sample of lump ore
taken from three different pits, the following analysis was
obtained: Metallic iron  54.075
Phosphorus  .073
Siliceous matter  7.950
Phosphorus in 100 parts iron .  .135

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 37
In the same work, the general average character of the ore
is well represented by the following analysis of a sample (176
pieces) taken from nine different openings :
Bisulphide of iron  None.
Protoxide of iron  None.
Sesquioxide of iron  ... .... 76.214
Sesquioxide of manganese   .051
Oxides of nickel and cobalt ... . ... .040
Oxide of zinc  . . None.
Oxide of lead  '   None.
Oxide of copper   None.
Alumina   2.365
Baryta  . . . .... None.
Lime ... . . . . . .  820
Magnesia   .486
Sulphuric acid   .157
Phosphoric acid  . ... .171
Water  12.072
Siliceous matter  7.480

99.856

Metallic iron   53.850
Metallic manganese  .036
Sulphur . . . i.  . . . .063
Phosphorus  . . . . .075
Phosphorus in 100 parts of iron  ... .140
There can be no doubt but that this is a magnificent ore-
bearing section in the way of iron. Every facility for manu
facturing iron in this country on the very cheapest basis is
apparently good, and already its reputation in that respect has
caused several large furnaces to be erected.
But it is not in, this section of the Southwest alone that we
have an abundance Of ore. In Roanoke and Botetourt coun
ties both the Houston and Rorer iron mines have been success-
1 fully worked for a number of years. The former supplies
much of the raw material for the Crozer iron and steel furnace,
while ores from the latter are shipped in all directions. The
ores from this section of Virginia are good, too, and, upon an
analysis from McCreath's " Mineral Wealth of Virginia," yield
from the Houston mines, in Botetourt county, the following :
Metallic iron  52.200
Metallic manganese  . ... 1.419
Sulphur   016
Phosphorus  . . . .194
Phosphorus in 100 parts of iron   371

38 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
The opening near Cloverdale, in Roanoke county, also
worked by the Houston company, known as the Murray
Bank, analyzes well. From twenty-five pieces selected by Mr.
Warne, superintendent of the mines, Mr. McCreath gives the
following analysis :
Metallic iron  . . . 53.050
Phosphorus ... . . ... 1.266
Siliceous matter   6.630
Phosphorus in 100 parts iron . .  2.386
Near Salem, Virginia, there are large deposits of ore, from
which the furnaces at that point will draw their raw material
in the way of ores. The Bott property is particularly good as
to quantity and quality, for Mr. Edmund C. Pechin, general
manager for the "Virginia Development Company," in his re
port to the stockholders in April, 1890, says :
" After considerable negotiations, the furnace has secured the lease of the
Bott property, about seven miles from Salem. A late inspection of this
property shows, as the result of extensive developments, what promises to
be one of the very best ore properties in Virginia. Not only is the amount of
the ore apparently very large and of good quality, but it lies in the foot-hills
and on the mountain side in such a shape as to allow easy opening up and
cheap mining." it**********
In this very particular of "cheap mining" most ofthe ore-
bearing country throughout the Southwest is alike. On all
sides it is conceded that ores can be mined cheaper in this part
of Virginia than in any other country known. In various parts
ofthe section, from experience and careful, prudent estimates,
it has been repeatedly shown that iron ore can be mined and
placed at the furnace for an average price of $2.30 per ton of ore.
In Pennsylvania it costs on an average of $4.25 per ton to place
it at the furnace — almost twice what it costs in our own coun
try. This difference must necessarily gradually drive the iron
manufacturer south, and substantiate Chauncey M. Depew's
advice when he said : " Go South, young man! "
Many counties in this vast mineral section contain mines of
iron ore in sufficient quantities to furnish material for large
amounts of capital to be used in their development, and to give

SOUTHAVEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 39
employment to thousands of mechanics and laboring men for
years to come. Magnetites, limonites, and specular ores are
found in different regions and localities. The magnetites
abound in the James River Valley; on the plateau; in counties
drained by New river and its tributaries; in Floyd, Carroll,
Pulaski, and Grayson. In Smyth and Washington counties,
as well as others, a semi-magnetic ore has been discovered, and
pronounced excellent on account of being low in phosphorus,
and therefore adapted to the manufacture of Bessemer steel,
which is rapidly succeeding iron in all structural work. The
hematites, both red and brown, are distributed all through the
Southwest — on the western slopes ofthe mountains, and in the
hills and valleys. This section is truly an iron-ore bearing
field, and the fact that the railroads direct from coking fields
near at hand run through it proves that Virginia, at no great
future day, will be one of the foremost States in the Union for
the manufacture of iron and the adjuncts thereto.
Other minerals as useful and necessary to humanity have
been discovered in Southwest Virginia, and many of them are
successfully worked at this day.
Lead has been extensively mined for over one hundred years
in Wythe county, and at this time the largest lead works in
the South are carried on there, with an apparently exhaustless
quantity. In this same section other mines of the same min
eral have been found and developments set on foot to have
their products utilized. These will, beyond doubt, prove a
success, and give employment to many people in manufacturing
a most valuable commodity in ever}' respect. The analysis
made of a sample of lead ore, second separation, taken from
the property of the Wythe Lead and Zinc Company, yields :
Metallic lead  65.836
zinc  5.408
In the Cripple creek-New river mining region have been
found the best samples of zinc ore ever discovered in the
South; and the "Bertha Zinc Works," situated at Pulaski
City (of which we will have more to say when we reach that

40 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
place), are not only the largest, but manufactures the purest
spelter in the United States. Up to the year 1887 this com
pany had manufactured or smelted 12,775 tons of ore, whieh
they derived from their mines not far off. An analysis of this
zinc shows:
Metallic zinc  37.836
lead  .... . . . . None.
In many other localities in this section this mineral has been
found, and will undoubtedly be successfully operated.
The allotment of space in this work forbids an analysis and
description of each class of minerals already discovered in
Southwest Virginia, and we refer the reader to various geologi
cal and mineralogical works on this subject. But we have
conclusive evidence that, besides the minerals already mentioned
and classified, this section has copper, tin, manganese, mica,
and plumbago, kaolin and fireclays, lime and cement, plaster
(gypsum), salt, marl, and building stones of every variety from
the grey to the brown sandstone — all of which can be seen by
any one interested in the mineral resources of Southwest Vir
ginia. We have not omitted the great coal sections thoughtlessly,
but will recur to them at the proper place, in connection with a
history of the New River railroad, which was constructed into
that section to haul out the vast quantities of this mineral.
With these mineral resources in the midst of an agricultural
country like this, it is but safe to prophesy that Virginia will
ere long occupy ller natural position in the foremost rank of
manufacturing States. Even now there are within her borders
many furnaces being erected, and some in blast. The Crozer
Furnace, the West-End Furnace, at 'Roanoke ; the one at Sa
lem ; the Crane Furnace, at Radford ; the Pulaski Iron Com
pany's furnace ; the furnace of G. T. Mills, at Pulaski City ;
the Ivanhoe Furnace on Cripple Creek extension ; the furnace
at Speedwell; the furnace ofthe Max Meadows Company;
the Graham Furnace, all indicate and point to the fact that the
Southwest bids fair to become a great manufacturing centre.

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 41
Another powerful lever which Virginia has to substantiate
her position as a manufacturing centre in the way of iron in
this section is the cheapness with which the article can be made.
Having the iron ore, limestone, and coke all within her bor
ders, no country can manufacture it cheaper than it can be
made here. Actual costs of making a ton of pig-iron are here
given. The cost at Roanoke, as furnished bj7 the Crozer Com
pany, is :
Ore, 2-J tons, at $2.26  $ 4 81
Coke, IJ tons, at $2.95  3 69
Limestone  .  . 75
Labor  2 10
Incidentals  1 25

Total  512 60
The cost at Pulaski Cit}7, as given by the Pulaski Iron Com
pany, is :
Ore, 2 tons, at $1.35  $ 2 70
Freight, at 35c  . . 70
If tons coke, at $1.75 . 2 40
Freight, at 90c  . 1 24
Limestone and labor .  . . . 2 15
Incidentals and repairs  . 1 00
Total cost per ton  $10 19
This cost of $10.19 at Pulaski is the average expense of
making iron in the New river-Cripple creek regions. Com
paring these estimates of actual cost with those of Pennsylvania,
we readily see the advantageous position which Virginia holds
as an iron-producing State.
In middle Pennsylvania the cost is:

Ore 
Fuel — coal and coke
Limestone 

Incidentals, labor ,
Total . . .

1882.

1884.

Actual Cost.

Estimated.

$ 9 37

$ 7 75

5 02
4 62
1 00
1 00
•¦ }
2 35
48
3 25
$18 22
$16 62
In the lower Susquehanna district the cost is $18.16 per ton,
and in the Lehigh Valley district $20.38 actual cost, and $17.02
42 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
estimated cost for one ton in 1884. This difference in cost in
that State between the years 1882 and 1884 arose from the
fact that in the latter year the cost of both ore and fuel was
much less.
These facts are invulnerable, and, so far as the manufacture
of iron is concerned, place Southwest Virginia in a most
enviable position.
If steam as a manufacturing power does not totally super
sede water, this section has an ample quantity for manufactur
ing purposes. James river in Botetourt; Roanoke river run
ning through Montgomery and Roanoke; New river through
Giles, Pulaski, Floyd, and Carroll; the Bluestone through
Tazewell, and other streams, place this section on a sound basis
as to water-power. But we have by careful observation come
to the conclusion that the old cry, " there can be no city with
out water-power," is effete, and that money and energy will
rear any structures under the sun except culture and refine
ment — they go a long way towards assisting those.
The immense and valuable bodies of timber throughout
Southwest Virginia has caused manufacturing in lumber to
become a distinct and remunerative business. Not ouly right
at home is there any quantity of it, but the demand for it is
there, too, and an ever-increasing one. All the varieties are
found — walnut, ash, cherry, pine, poplar, oak, spruce, cedar,
hemlock pine, hickory, chestnut, locust, birch, and tulip pop
lar — and the supply is almost exhaustless, for so quickly do
the forests replenish themselves that a continuous supply is
the result. Huge saw-mills, planing-mills, and wood-working
factories, such as sash, door, and house-furnishing wood-work,
are springing up on every side; while manufacturing establish
ments for fancy wood-carving are beginning to be erected at
one or two places.
When we think of a country's possessing all these advan
tages bestowed upon it by the God of nature — its gorgeous and
beautiful scenery, its salubrious and healthy climate, its agri
cultural and mineral resources, its certainty of possession of

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 43
all those adjuncts which make a country a manufacturing cen
ter — should we wronder at energy and capital pouring in to
develop it ? And having taken a cursory view of the original
grand cause, let us look now at the auxiliary causes which
have played no small part in the history of its progress.

CHAPTER III.
Slavery : Its effect upon the country, upon the people owning them, and upon
the slaves themselves — Abolition of slavery one of the causes of the
progress of Southwest Virginia.
UP to the year 1865 slavery was an institution in the
Southern States, and in the particular section of country
of which we are now writing. It was not only a stigma
to the country in a moral sense, but a stumbling-block in the
way of its material advancement and progress. History but
repeats itself that slavery, in every form and shape, is au insu
perable obstacle to the development of the general interests of
a people at large, though it may render the slaveholders opu
lent and extremely rich as a class. Taking the people of any
country as a whole, the tendency of the institution is to retard
their growth, development, and welfare, and the interest of any
people as an unit should always be considered before that of
any particular class.
The fact that slavery exists in some form or shape the world
over does not justify the kind of which we are writing. There
may be such things as political, moral, mental, social, and
pecuniary slavery, yet it is a badge adopted by the slave himself
to serve some particular cause or end, and one for which he is
to blame. But the governing, directing, and training of minds
and bodies by one class of men without the consent ofthe other
necessarily entails ideas, views, and thoughts of life contrary to
divine as well as true human wisdom.
The effect of this institution upon the proprietor of the slaves
was in many respects very bad, although in others it advanced
him. ¦ The owner of hundreds of human beings accustomed to
obey his slightest wish, never questioning the right or wrong
of the command, could scarcely brook opposition or contradic
tion from any quarter whatever. In his behavior to any whom

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 45
he deemed his inferiors there was that hauteur of class superi
ority, almost unconsciously on his part, which made the life of
the inferior degraded and contemptuous, often causing the latter
to be convinced that he possessed the right of living and nothing
more. The poorer class, or "overseering" population, was
almost as degraded as people could well be, and even the slaves
had an unbounded contempt for them. This unfortunate state
has been amply proven by subsequent events to have proceeded
from the institution itself, because, after the abolition of slavery
and those galling chains were removed in a social way, that
very class improved and bettered themselves until they have
become broad, representative citizens. On the other hand, the
effect of slavery, from various causes, gave the slave-owning peo
ple and their families the means of improving themselves mor
ally, mentally, and physically until they inaugurated a regime
which for culture, elegance, and refinement has never been ex
celled, nor ever will be; for as the general condition of the
people has improved, that has retrograded, we are sorry to say,
although recognizing both the force and necessity for it. Fur
thermore, slavery unfitted a large class of people from any
self-reliance whatever, and inoculated a reign of luxurious ease
which of itself gave the possessors an erroneous idea and view
of life, and, when the slaves were freed, nothing but the pluck,
virtue, and moral excellence ofthe Southern people themselves-
prevented them from drifting into absolute destruction.
The results of this institution upon the slaves in bondage
necessarily depends upon the people themselves in a great
measure. To some races (for instance, the Caucasian) it would
mean a total elimination of the race itself, for they would never
stand it; but the negro people as a race have no objection to-
it. Even when placed in their native country now they relapse
into barbarism, and people who cannot govern themselves
properly are necessarily slaves to those who can. To them
slavery was an honor rather than otherwise, and it was as
much their joy and pleasure to look up to and serve their mas
ters and mistresses as it was to breathe the air around them.

46 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
As a class, happier beings never existed, and they had a
most unbounded contempt for a free negro — " Cuffee," as they
called him — and shunned him as they would a leper, and even
to this day that prejudice still exists in the mind of the negro
who can recall the days of slavery. A crowning proof, how
ever, that the colored race was not dissatisfied with its exist
ence was this : When the civil war was raging in all its fury,
and the negro knew that the bone of contention was his free
dom, he remained not only perfectly quiet, but aided and
assisted his owner in every way possible, and had a death-like
enmity towards the North. Of course there were exceptions
to the rule in this as in all other cases. It is contended by
some that the negro had no such feelings of loyalty, but this
quiet demeanor arose from superior virtue on the part of his
race. No one can divine the motives and desires of the human
heart of the negro any more than any one else, and they are
capable of deceit at times; but their uttered thoughts and acts-
supported the position taken by us above.
They were treated kindly as a whole, and were well cared
for in every way, having their prerogatives and rights guaran
teed them by an unwritten law as binding and well defined as
our laws from which we draw many of our strongest customs.
The many accounts written about cruel treatment of them
were untrue, although there were some owners who were
harsh. Particularly have some dwelt upon the lash as a
means of torture and barbarism, but they appear not to have
given both sides an impartial examination. Punishment in
some form must be administered to prevent vice, and if a
negro committed theft or any other crime, his owner, being in
a measure amenable, administered punishment instead of the
law. Shall it be said to be cruelty that a negro's liberty is
snatched from him because he violates the law ? Try him to
day, and see which would be his choice — thirty-and-nine, or
the penitentiary for one year — for the commission of grand
larceny. /
Of all the means for advancing the material interest of a

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 47
country, manufacturing is the most successful. It gives a de
mand for both the raw material and the labor with which to
work it up. Whatever has a tendency to advance the manu
facturing interest of a country promotes its general welfare,
while anything which retards it necessarily obstructs its ma
terial development. The necessary results of the institution
of slavery invariably have this latter result. Slavery first has a
tendency to encourage and foster agricultural pursuits, and
discourage those of the manufacturing business ; therefore the
owner of the slaves must exchange his surplus agricultural
products for the manufactured machinery and products of some
others. Except for the needs of the plantation and slaves
themselves, mechanical arts were not encouraged and edu
cation vetoed among them. It would not have been policy to
have taught them the art of mechanics, or given them learning
any farther than was necessary for their absolute maintenance
and support and the purposes of the master, which were to
give him the necessaries, comforts, and luxuries of life. The
owner cared not for manufacturing when his slaves could make
his meat, his clothes, his farming implements, and do his black
smith work. The capitalist who desired to institute such an
enterprise as an establishment for manufactured goods, except
in a few instances, was discouraged. When class distinctions
ran high, and the ensign of a gentleman was to have no virtual
occupation except one of pleasure, to be engaged in trade was
rather a stigma than otherwise; so the capital of the country
was not invested in such pursuits. Mining and iron -manufac
turing were not resorted to, but if a man became possessed of
any capital the first impulse was to invest in a plantation and
negroes. The labor of any country has much to do with its manufac
turing interests. Manufacturers require generally a class of
skilled labor, which is not necessary in agricultural pursuits.
In the South, where slavery existed, the skilled white mechanic
rebelled against working with the slave, which he deemed de
grading to himself, and thus the emigration of this class of

48 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
labor into the South was extremely small indeed. Not until
after the abolition of slavery did they come here and seek em
ployment in developing our vast resources.
.Whatever virtues the negro may possess, experience shows
that they are only capable of the lowest class of manual labor
as a race, although instances have been, and are known, which
vary the rule. Skilled work — mechanical art — is far beyond
their powers, nor are they placed in any such position. The
friends themselves of the colored race, who advocate their hav
ing equal rights and being pushed forward in every way, are
a living contradiction to such views, when the negro applies for
an engineer's place to run a locomotive, or to fire one, or to
take the place of a skilled laborer in any other ofthe numerous
departments of the gigantic enterprises now set on foot. This
is but right and correct, because the negro is incapable of
reaching that state of intelligence necessary to fill these impor
tant posts as the Caucasian can do. Again, in addition to the
necessary skill and knowledge which is requisite to fill these
positions, there is more or less responsibility attached to them
which requires more or less truth and honesty to fill them prop
erly. A negro might be trusted implicitly to plow your field,
but there would be some objection to his having a passenger
train crowded with human freight under his care, although he
might be cognizant ofthe modus operandi of a locomotive engine.
When slavery was abolished and the whole phase of life in
Virginia changed in this respect, the agricultural interest began
to develop on a new basis, while capital slowly crept in until
the wonderful resources of the country were made public, and
then it began to pour in. The old large estates were cut up
into smaller ones, and the true agricultural policy adopted —
that of cultivating the most on the least possible ground. This
new regime in farming caused many people to turn their efforts
and energies in other directions. The opening up of the great
western granaries, with through railroad facilities, caused agri
culture here to have a hard time, and people turned their atten
tion towards the vast wealth imbedded within their mountains.

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 49
But the native population had no means with which to de
velop these large hidden treasures. Their property consisted
of slaves, which had been swept away, and they turned their
attention to foreign capitalists, who, on viewing the wonderful
resources of the country, came in with their money, energy,
and varied business experience. The result was that the Vir
ginia young men gradually disrobed themselves of all false
pride and became by apprenticeship the skilled labor of the
southwest of Virginia in a great measure. To-day ninety per
cent, of the fifteen hundred mechanics working at " The Roan
oke Machine Works " are skilled laborers and from the sur
rounding country in Virginia.
This false pride to which we have just alluded is one of the
logical results of the institution of slavery. Where all the
labor in any country is performed by slaves or an inferior race,
to become a laborer is to brand yourself with a stamp of coun
terfeit disgrace from which it is hard to recover ; and during
slavery the white man who earned his bread by the sweat of
his brow in a social way was but little better than a slave, ex
cept he possessed personal liberty and the right of property.
When the cruel war was over the abolition of slavery did not
eradicate all his preconceived views concerning labor all at
once. He still thought that to labor with his own hands was
a shame, and it was not until necessity and the changed con
dition of things were apparent that he threw off this device of
pride and went manfully to work. He then, with his superior
mental and moral parts, soon took his natural position as a
skilled mechanic, while the negro continues to perform the
lowest manual and menial service, and will continue so to do
to the end of the chapter.
The burden of slavery to the owner was more retarding to
the material growth of a country than any one would imagine
from a cursory view. Upon every estate there were so many
superannuated negroes, as well as young ones, who were a con
stant drain upon the working ones without yielding any return
themselves. They had to be supported and cared for like the

50 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY".
rest, who worked. If there was a failure in crops, why there
was no shutting down and saving of expense as in other
branches and states of business. The expense still went on.
So if a man during slavery desired to invest in manufacturing
pursuits he found it difficult so to do, because his capital was
generally all invested in land, negroes, and a sufficient bank
account to meet any exigencies which might arise from any
unforeseen accident. In this respect he was completely unfet
tered by the abolition of slavery.
So far as manufacturing industries were concerned, the want
of knowledge concerning them was a serious hindrance to their
either embarking in them as proprietors or employees. They
first had to learn — i. e., begin at the bottom and master the
rudiment of their occupations, as well as conquer their pride.
Years were necessarily spent in becoming acquainted with
those minor details which any ordinary mechanic's son would
know at sixteen or seventeen years of age, and whieh they
would have known had they lived in a country where labor
was regarded as honorable and virtue brought out through
dire necessity. This very want of knowledge on the part of
the native men at first — which is attributable to the institution
of slavery — was one of the causes of the pouring into our bor
ders throngs of new people. If a furnace, a machine-shop, a
rolling-mill, an iron mine, or a coal mine was started, the neces
sary operatives had to be imported to do the labor, which
meant, of course, the influx of families, too, and the necessary
grocerymen and clothiers to supply their wants. There are no
better illustrations of this salient fact than Roanoke, Salem,
Radford, Pulaski City, and Bluefield. In these cases the open
ing of shops, furnaces, and other industries required skilled
laborers at once, and the natives, from their want of knowledge,
could not take hold at first, so the importation of the necessary
clerks, skilled laborers, and mechanics who understood the
business caused them all to grow as if by magic. When the
young men found that the heads of these great establishments
had worked as mechanics; that there was no disgrace in it;

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 51
that good, remunerative wages were paid, they took hold, and
in every case nearly made the best class of workmen, aud num
bers can now be pointed out who own their homes and smoke
the pipe of peace by their own hearthstones.
Taking the people of this country as a whole, and the general
welfare of the section itself, a greater boon could not have been
bestowed upon them than the abolition of slavery. Before that
time they manufactured but little, and purchased everything
except the plainer necessaries of life made by the slaves at
home. Now it is the wish, desire, and will of these people to
draw upon the wealth embodied in their mountains, and, in
preparing it for the immediate use of the people^ to give em
ployment to thousands of their brethren, so that each and every
ramification of society may perceive its benefits, which they
cannot fail to do. The day when manufactured goods have to
be brought from the North is over. From the raw material
which composes the locomotive engine to the skilled labor
which construct it we are full-handed, and everything made in
the way of iron, from a shovel to a bridge, will soon be manu
factured here — not only to supply our wants, but those of other
people, because we can make them cheaper.
That the abolition of slavery, which is one ofthe chief causes
of the rapid development of this country, was attended with
some evil results is undeniably true. No great upheaval or
revolution can occur in any country without some disaster, it
matters not how much good its results may finally accomplish.
The ideas, views, mode of life, and habits of a people can never
be changed without trouble and great misery at first. Those
who were reared to gratify every wish, to enjoy and possess the
best of everything, suffered intensely when the means of grati
fying their desires were swept away suddenly ; but the fiery
ordeal in crushing the few benefited the many, and made the
New South in her new era a greater and really wealthier coun
try than she ever was before. And this view is becoming in
doctrinated everywhere in the United States, for the old cry of
"Go West" has been revised and changed, and now it is, "Go

52 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
South." We cannot better illustrate this fact than by quoting
the words ofthe Honorable Chauncey M. Depew,in an address
to the Alumni Association of Yale University. He said, just
after a tour through the Southern States :
" The net results of this visit to the South, to my mind, is just this : that
the South is the bonanza of the future. We have developed all the great
and sudden opportunities for wealth — or most of them — in the Northwestern
States and on the Pacific slope, but here is a vast country with the best cli
mate in the world ; with conditions of health which are absolutely unparal
leled ; with vast forests untouched ; with enormous veins of coal and iron
which yet have not known anything beyond their original conditions ; with
soil that, under proper cultivation, for little capital, can support a tremendous
population ; with conditions in the atmosphere for comfortable living winter
and summer which exist nowhere else in the country ; and that is to be the
attraction for the young men who go out from the farms to seek settlement,
and not by immigration from abroad, for I do not think they will go that
way, but by the internal immigration from our own country it is to become
in time as prosperous as any other section of the country, and as prosperous
by a purely American development."
The continual emigration of people into this section since
the war is proof that Mr. Depew's utterances are truthful and
prudent. Many of the people of the very State in which he
delivered that address are locating in this section, and are
pleased with it. And he is not alone. Many persons in all
directions of the compass are pointing towards this country
with the same sage and salient advice: "Go South, young
man ! "

CHAPTER IV.
The New River branch of the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company —
Part played by the New River railroad in the development of Southwest
Virginia— Its inception and beginning — The original charter — General
G. C. Wharton — Dr. John B. Radford — First organization — Meeting at
Eggleston's Springs — Resolutions of incorporators — Richard B. Roane —
Thomas Graham, J. D. Sergeant, and Walter Wood— Governor Gilbert
C. Walker — Options and coal lands, and the manner in which the road
was captured from its original incorporators — Country which was opened
up by this railroad — Pocahontas and the Flat Top coal regions.
OF all the auxiliary causes which have played their parts
in the development of Southwest Virginia, the New
River branch of the Norfolk and Western Railroad
Company stands pre-eminently in the front. This road runs
from Radford, in Montgomery county, through Pulaski and
Giles counties, Virginia, and Mercer county, West Virginia ;
thence on through Tazewell county, Virginia, touching the
West Virginia line at Bluestone Junction, and goes to Poca
hontas, Virginia. The branch running from Bluestone Junc
tion goes into the Flap Top coal region, and on to Elk Horn
from Mill Creek Junction, which latter branch is being
extended to Ironton, Ohio, through West Virginia.
Such a marked effect did the formation and construction of
this route have upon the section of country of which we are
writing, that every person who acted a part on the theatre of
its earlier history deserves special notice, and if there should be
some stage by-plays among the personoe dramatis, all deserve
either the praise or blame of posterity as well as its thanks.
In the fall of 1862, General G. C. Wharton, of Radford, was
marching through West Virginia with his brigade, on his way
to Fayette by the Raleigh turnpike. When beyond Prince
ton, after crossing Bluestone river, the troops stopped to rest
for a few moments in ascending the mountains. Two of his
officers, Captain Pole French and Captain Pack, were lying

54 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
under a train wagon. Whilst conversing with these gentle
men he remarked:
"There is coal in this vicinity."
"Certainly," replied Captain Pack; "there is plenty of it.
Right below here you will see where they have been getting
it out." So far as we can gather from history this was the first dis
covery of this coal region which led to any beneficial results.
This point was on the head-waters of Camp creek, in Mercer
county, West Virginia.
Later on during the war, General G. C. Wharton married a
daughter of the late Dr. John B. Radford, after whose family
the city of Radford is named. Settling there on New river, on
some land given his wife by Dr. John B. Radford, General
Wharton, who was well acquainted with the. iron ore regions of
Floyd, Carrol], and Pulaski, conceived the idea that if the coal
regions he had traversed during the war could be opened up
and coke made, the point where" he was living might become in
some time an iron-manufacturing centre. Nor were his ideas
on that subject at all chimerical at the time.
New river, which borders his land, rises in North Carolina,
and flowing northwest, cuts directly through the range of
mountains between Radford and West Virginia, giving an out
let. General Wharton, being satisfied that the charcoal fur
naces could not continue long in blast for want of fuel, thought
of penetrating this coal region for coke. With this idea framed
in his mind, he determined to set the plan in operation at the
earliest possible moment. In 1871 he was elected to the Legis
lature, and while there, on March 7th, 1872, obtained a charter
incorporating what was then known as " The New River Rail
road, Mining, and Manufacturing Company," with John B.
Radford, John T. Cowan, Joseph Cloyd, James A. Walker,
William T. Yancey, William Mahone, Charles W. Statham,
Joseph H. Chumbley, A. II. Flannagan, Philip W. Strother,
John C. Snidow, Joseph II. Hoge, William Eggleston, G. C.
Wharton, William Adair, James A. Harvey, A. A. Chapman,

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 55
Robert W. Hughes, A. N. Johnston, Elbert Fowler, David E.
Johnson, John A. Douglas, W. II. French, R. B. McNutt,
James M. Bailey, and A. Gooch as incorporators.
The charter obtained by General Wharton gave the company
power upon its organization "to construct, maintain, and ope
rate a railroad from New River depot, a point on the line of
the Virginia and Tennessee division of the Atlantic, Missis
sippi and Ohio Railroad Company, in the county of Pulaski
and State of Virginia, to such a point as may be agreed upon
at or near the head-waters of Camp creek, in the county of
Mercer and State of West Virginia; and the said New1 River
Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing Company shall have the
privilege of constructing, maintaining, and operating such
branch roads as may be necessary to bring out coal, iron, and
other ores from the counties of Mercer, Somers, and Monroe,
of West Virginia, and 'the counties of Giles, Bland, Pulaski,
and Montgomery, ofthe State of Virginia. And the said New
River Railroad, -Mining, and Manufacturing Company shall be
further empowered to acquire ownership of land for mining
and manufacturing purposes, and shall be entitled to enjoy all
the rights and privileges respectively conferred by the laws of
the States of Virginia and West Virginia upon railroad corpo
rations and mining and manufacturing companies, and shall be
subject to the restrictions imposed by such laws upon like cor
porations. 2. " The capital stock ofthe said New River Railroad, Mining,
and Manufacturing Company shall not exceed two millions of
dollars, to be divided into shares of one hundred dollars each,
each share subscribed to be entitled to one vote in all meetings
of said company; and one hundred thousand dollars shall be
taken as the minimum subscription on which said company
may be organized."
While the General was applying for this charter, his friends
ridiculed the idea of a railroad being run through the moun
tain gorges and clifts bordering on the wild banks of New
river. But he, nothing daunted, continued his course. When

56 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
the bill came up to be passed, his brother law-makers said :
" There's nothing in it, but we will vote for it because Whar
ton wants it."
Finally, as we have said, the bill became a law in March,
1872, and General Wharton, with the power conferred under
this charter, proceeded to put his plans in operation.
On the 17th day of June, 1872, a meeting of the incorpora
tors of this road was held at Pearisburg, in Giles county, Vir
ginia. From the Pearisburg Gazette of date June 22, 1872, we
find that the following business was transacted :
The roll was called, and a quorum being present the meet
ing proceeded to business. Dr. John B. Radford was elected
president, and Elbert Fowler secretary. Dr. Radford had given
much of his time and attention to the construction of this com
pany, and was a worthy gentleman iii every way to place at the
head of the scheme in its infancy.
On motion of General G. C. Wharton, numerous commit
tees were appointed to receive subscriptions at Norfolk, Rich
mond, Lynchburg, Philadelphia, and all points along the line
of the projected railroad. Two other resolutions were passed
at this meeting, as follows :
"Resolved, That Richard B. Roane be authorized and requested to visit
the coal-fields in Tazewell and Mercer and secure such grants and subscrip
tions in land, material, money, and, as far as possible, the right of way on the
line. "Resolved, That this meeting adjourn to meet at Eggleston's Springs on
Tuesday the 23d day of July."
Richard B. Roane came from Eastern Virginia, a descendant
of one of the best and most influential families in that country.
He came to Southwest Virginia in 1871, to follow his profes
sion of engineering, and in connection with that became well
acquainted with the topography and mineral resources of the
land. To him was entrusted the onerous duty of securing
options, grants, material, right of way, and mineral properties
for the New River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing Com
pany. He proceeded at once to the counties named, and

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 57
during this trip laid the foundation for securing grants of the
celebrated coal lands on Flat Top and around there which
have since proven to be worth millions. He saw and nego
tiated with the following parties, as appears from the following
memorandum, which is unquestionably true :
"The following parties seen, and negotiations entered into with them for
their coal, in the interest of the New River Railroad, Mining, and Manufac
turing Company : A. A. Sports, G. W. Spotts, Jonathan Smith, John Smith,
India and Sarah Taylor, Amos Read, W. L. Moore, Jacob Buckland, W. H.
Whitten, George Reid, Thomas Franklin, I. Q. Moore, Lewis K. Harvey,
John J. Jeffress, the tract on centre of Laurel; Osborne tract, near the same,
500 acres (Laurel); Daniel Boiling, D. H. Dean, Daniel K. Perdue, J. Parker,
Mosby Davis, George Tabor, Arch Thompson, C. H. Gleaner, 500 acres."
These parties were willing to make certain donations and
grants, provided the road was constructed in five years. Most
of these lands were in the very heart of the Flat Top region ;
and* the New River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing
Company, with the options upon such property as this, would
have been one of the richest corporations in the South, and
made the originators of the scheme rich, had justice played a
role on the stage of this railroad theatre.
On July 23, 1872, the meeting appointed to take place at
Eggleston's Springs was held, and from a subsequent copy ofthe
Pearisburg Gazette of date July 27, 1872, we find the follow--
ing proceedings concerning the New River Railroad, Mining,
and Manufacturing Company :
" A quorum for business being present, on motion, Richard Wood was
appointed chairman, and A. L. Fry and George W. Easley secretaries.
"The committees appointed at a former meeting to canvass for subscrip
tions to capital stock, not being ready to report, were severally continued.
" Richard B. Roane, who was appointed to visit the coal-fields in the coun
ties of Tazewell and Mercer to secure grants and subscriptions, and as far as
practicable the right of way, returned an interesting and flattering report,
which was read and accepted."
A resolution was then passed by the company with reference
to subscriptions, and the meeting adjourned after appointing
Gen. G. C. Wharton, Hon. P. W. Strother, John T. Cowan,
and George W. Easley as a committee to solicit aid from the

£8 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
Atlantic, Mississippi and Ohio and the Chesapeake and Ohio
railroads. Although the Gazette does not mention the fact, yet
there is evidence that at this meeting John T. Cowan was
elected president, with Wood, Strother, Radford, Fowler, and
Wharton directors.
In the session of 1872-'73, the charter was amended in sev
eral respects to meet the wishes of parties desiring to become
¦connected with the company.
Early in the spring of 1874, Richard B. Roane visited Rich
mond, Va., and while at the Exchange Hotel was introduced
to one Thomas Graham, from Philadelphia, by Governor Gil
bert C. Walker, at that time occupying the highest post of
honor in Virginia. Roane exhibited some samples, of ores and
minerals to Graham which pleased him very much, and he
made minute inquiries regarding the country, resources, min
erals, and all, to which Roane politely gave him all the informa
tion possible, desiring to interest every one he could in the
New River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing Company.
Finally he asked Roane if he would meet 'him and take him
over the line of the country — through Tazewell and Mercer —
where the coal was situated. Roane agreed to meet him at
Dublin, in Pulaski county, and did so, taking him for a trip^
through the counties above named, and then he returned to
Philadelphia, carrying with him a box of specimens to be
analyzed. Hitherto, in detailing the history of this little company, which
was struggling to place itself upon its feet, we have done so
with great pleasure ; but from this on a canopy of darkness
comes over the transactions' concerning it which we would
gladly leave drawn, but truth in chronicling these events re
quires that it be unfolded.
What passed between R. B. Roane and Thomas Graham
during this trip, through the country we are unable to say, nor
can we explain why Walter W. Wood should have appeared on
the scene in Philadelphia about this time, but we find that in
this same spring he wrote the following letter:

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 59
Philadelphia, Pa., April 10, 1874.
Dear Roane, — I have had a further interview with the parties to-day.
Graham's box of specimens has arrived, and he is proceeding immediately to
analyze them. The parties are in dead earnest, and nothing will disconcert
them unless the ores turn out bad on analysis — a contingency that they do
not contemplate. Whether you deem it advisable to see Colonel Harman
or not, you come to Richmond to see me, as the parties want the railroad
captured right away. I repeat, they mean business.
Very truly yours, W. W. WOOD.
Who the parties were that wanted the railroad captured right
away we cannot say from Wood's letter, nor have we any idea
what plans had been formed for capturing the same. - But three
days later the following letter was written, which in a measure
gives us some idea who the capturing parties were :
Thomas GrAham, President. T. B. English, Sec'y- Treas' r.
Office North Carolina Centre Iron and Manufacturing Co.,
Philadelphia, April 13, 1874.
Mr. R. B. Roane, Esq., Dublin, Pulaski County, Va. :
Dear Sir, — In conversation with our friends on the subject of the New
River railroad and matters connected therewith, they join me in the opinion
that it will be expedient to see you here, in order to have more definite in
formation. I therefore invite you to come to this city, and meet us, with Gov
ernor Walker, in order that you may personally explain and confer with us.
Should this meet your wishes, will you please advise Governor Walker, to
whom I have written to-day, and also inform me, appointing the time ? I
would suggest that you bring with you all necessary papers of information,
with maps. ' Inclosed I hand you Girard National Bank check on New York
for one hundred dollars, which please acknowledge.
Very truly yours, THOMAS GRAHAM.
The friends of whom Thomas Graham writes in the above
letter were, in all probability, J. Dickinson Sergeant, Richard
Wood, Harvey Beckwith, and Lewis Rodman, including. Gov
ernor Walker, of course. From the best light we have upon
the subject, these were the parties then attempting to capture
the New River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing Company.
In his letter of April 13, 1874, Thomas Graham advises R.
B. Roane to put himself in communication with Governor
Walker. But it appears that Roane had already communi
cated with Governor Walker, for two days after Thomas Gra
ham wrote Roane, this letter followed :

60 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
Richmond, Va., April 15, 1874-
My Dear Sir, — Your valued favor of the 7th instant reached here during
my absence.
After my return I had a conference with General G. C. Wharton, who
promised to write you, and I presume has done so last evening. I received
a note from Mr. Graham, stating that he had written you suggesting a con
ference between us and others in Philadelphia. I am compelled to be in that
city next week on other business, and I have so written him. If you can go
on, I think it would be well to do so ; and if you will name the day most con
venient to you, I will try and arrange to go on at same time. Much caution
and good management will be required in all these matters, which of course
you fully appreciate. Hoping to hear from you by return mail,
I am very truly yours, G. C. WALKER.
R. B. Roane, Esq.
In a short while from the receipt of those letters Roane went
to Philadelphia. By some people it was thought that as Thomas
Graham was not in any way connected with the road, Roane
should not have carried the papers, maps, and information
which he had gathered as a duly appointed agent of the New
River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing Company to him
and his Philadelphia friends; but upon reflection, we are in
clined to think that in this instance Roane should not have
been censured, because he wished to show Northern parties the
many advantages which his company possessed in the way of
minerals and ores. In fact, others knew that Roane was going
on, because General Wharton met Roane in company with
Thomas Graham ; thought that the latter was a Philadelphia
capitalist, as he represented himself as such, and from his state
ments believed that he and his Northern friends could con
struct and equip the road. But General G. C. Wharton at that
time had not the ghost of an idea that Thomas Graham and his
friends were in concert to capture the coal lands, strip them
from the New River Company, and let the latter shift for itself.
Nor had such a plan ever entered the mind of John T. Cowan,
then president of the company, because, as we shall see directly,
he and Hotchkiss were working in the interest of the New River
Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing Company, endeavoring-
to obtain options and grants for land. Prior to this time we

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 61
find, by a memorandum endorsed, that in 1872 and 1873 all
negotiations, bargains, and purchases were being secured by
Roane in the name of the New River Railroad, Mining, and
Manufacturing Company. On the back ofthe list of men seen
in Abb's Valley, in reference to their lands, we find this writ
ten memorandum :
" Abb's Valley coal menl seen and negotiated with by Roane in 1872 and
1873." And within we find written :
" In the interest of the N. R. R. R., M. & M. Co."
So we may reasonably conclude that in the capturing minds
of Thomas Graham and friends, of Philadelphia, alone rested
the idea of gobbling up these mineral lands, at this time, with
out respect to the wishes or rights of the New River Railroad,
Mining, and Manufacturing Company.
What passed at the conference in Philadelphia which Roane
attended we cannot saj' farther than what was subsequently
stated by R. B. Roane — that " a plan of action was determined
upon." We are not left, though, in the dark as to what that plan
was, for Mr. Roane, upon being asked, frankly stated that
Thomas Graham desired to become a stockholder in the com
pany, with some friends of his. At, all events, Roane called a
meeting of the directors, which took place in April, 1874 —
about the 24th — at the Norvell- Arlington Hotel, in the city ot
Lynchburg. He requested that Thomas Graham and others
be allowed to subscribe, but for reasons unknown the direc
tors refused to allow it, doubtless feeling then that things
were not going on as they ought. But the stockholders
having carelessly omitted hitherto to pay the two per cent, on
the fifty thousand subscribed, Thomas Bocock, an astute attor
ney, at the suggestion of Roane, gave it as his opinion that the
whole thing was invalid on that account, and that the books
should be re-opened in order to collect the two per cent. Three
of the directors consented; the books of subscription were

62 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
re-opened, and checks were given by the subscribers for the two
per cent., and other subscriptions made. At this meeting it
seems that Roane made a subscription of five thousand dollars,
conditioned upon the fact that he should be satisfied with the
organization to be made at the Montgomery White Sulphur
Springs, in June, 1874. We further infer from facts which
we will give directly that at this meeting Richard B. Roane
was in some manner passed over and ignored in a way which
he thought was but a poor return for the services he had given
this company. From now on we find that he gave the Phila
delphia parties every assistance possible, until they broke faith
with him, and by their own actions, as we shall see, treated
him abominably.
Shortly after the adjournment of this meeting Thomas Gra
ham wrote a letter, which we copy verbatim. It was as follows :
Thomas Graham, President. T. B. English, Sec'y-Treas'r.
North Carolina Centre Iron and Manufacturing Co.,
Philadelphia, April 28, 1874-
Mr. Richard B. Roane, Esq., Dublin, Va. .
My Dear Sir, — Mr. Richard Wood returned, and called on me yesterday.
He related what had occurred at the meeting at Lynchburg. His explana
tion of th'e results is not made clear to me up to this time. I also have your
letter of the 26th, which is very clear, and I coincide with the opinions therein
expressed. Until I see you I will reserve any further comments. I fully
appreciate your surprise and disappointment. I think it just to warn you
that you are likely to be ignored. I do not know yet what steps myself and
friends will take — surely some, however— of which I will inform you ; but I
vyould advise you to strengthen yourself by laying hold of red hematite and
magnetic ore, marble, and lithographic stone ; also, fossil ores near and
tributary to the line. Advise us of properties you can secure, with descrip
tion, terms, &c, and we will inform you what we will do. Get leases and
options. Tell us what you wish us to do for you. If it meets with our views
we will do as we agree. It will be wise for you to confine yourself for the
present to properties close to the line of the railroad, and where you know
good bodies of mineral exist— the best of such properties — without encum
bering yourself with heavy bodies of property. It will be proper to furnish
you with funds for your expenses whilst engaged in this work, and the further
compensation or interest that may be determined on secured to you by con
tract. Should you entertain these suggestions, we would prefer that leases,
options, or any direct important purchases of mineral property, or strategical

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 63
points of importance, if approved by us, should be made in the name of or con
veyed to J. Dickinson Sergeant, attorney at law, Philadelphia, Pa., subject to
the contract of interest or compensation agreed upon with you. I call your
attention at once to the magnetic property (No. 3) north of Snidow's Ferry ;
to Charles Parker's red hematite, No. 2 ; to No. 5 brown hematite, Laurel
creek ; to the magnetic ore near A. M. & O. R. R. ; to the marbles and
litho stone. Mr. Wood considers that Mr. "Cowan and Mr. Hotchkiss-
are in positions to enable them to accumulate property for the New River
railroad. Probably they are. In writing you this letter, however, it is sim
ply business between us. I shall be glad to hear from you, and I will advise
you. Please write me on tlie matter contained in this letter, and believe me
to be sincerely your friend, THOMAS GRAHAM, 233 St. (over).
P. S. — You will pardon me if I further advise you to make no confidants.
When you write, will you inform me more particularly as to the occurrences
of the meeting at Lynchburg, and whether General Wharton agreed entirely
with Mr. Wood in the course he pursued ? I wish to remark that Mr. Wood
was authorized, and agreed to make the requisite subscription, and my tele
gram inferred further aid, if necessary. T. G
This remarkable letter was written on the 28th day of April,
1874, almost three months before Thomas Graham or J. Dick
inson Sergeant became officers in that company. Notwith-
standipg the fact that Sergeant had no connection whatever
with the company, Graham writes the authorized agent of the
New River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing Company to
have " all leases, options, or any direct important purchase of
mineral land, or strategical points of importance," conveyed to
J. Dickinson Sergeant. Graham had some object in view in
wanting the New River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing
Company completely separated from the options, leases, and
purchases of the mineral lands, and that object could be but
one. Had the leases, purchases, and options of this great coal
section been obtained in the name of the New River Railroad^
Mining, and Manufacturing Company no disposition could
have been made of them without the consent, sanction, and
authority of the directors of that company, and the general
stockholders — not Graham, Sergeant, Wood, Beckwith, and
Rodman — would have been entitled to a participation in the
profits. The fact stares us directly in the face, that the very
property which the company knew was most valuable and

64 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
upon which it based its calculations was being snatched away
and forever sundered from her chartered rights, without any
knowledge of the president or board of directors, wh,o were
the legal guardians of its property, rights, and franchises. By
virtue of the authority vested in R. B. Roane to secure grants,
options, leases, and contracts of mineral land, the New River
Railroad and Mining Company was entitled to them, and Gra
ham and Sergeant well knew that their steps were in violation
of that express authority to have them gotten in the name of a
total stranger to that company.
It was now absolutely necessary that such a change should
be made in the governing body of the company as would enable
Graham and Sergeant to continue their concerted plan of ope
rations without question from any president, vice-president,
secretary, treasurer, or director. So, at the meeting held in
June, 1874, at the Montgomery White Sulphur Springs,
Thomas Graham appeared for the purpose of becoming a sub
scriber in the sum of $50,000, to make up the necessary one
hundred thousand dollars required by the charter.
At this meeting the stockholders again objected to the books
being re-opened or Graham being allowed to subscribe. There
seemed to be some insuperable difficulty to his coming in, for
at the former meeting in Lynchburg tb^e directors and stock
holders had objected. But Roane again came to his rescue,
and withdrawing his subscription of $5,000, and his check for
2 per cent, cash, the books were re-opened, and Thomas Gra
ham subscribed $50,000, and at last became a stockholder in
the company with which he had been hitherto connected "sub
rosa." At this meeting a new organization was effected, and
J. Dickinson Sergeant was made president, Thomas Graham
vice-president, T. B. English secretary and treasurer, and R. B.
Roane land agent and mining engineer.
The surprise which Thomas Graham expressed in his last
letter to R. B. Roane, at the proceedings in Lynchburg, can be
easily understood now. This last reorganization he expected
in Lynchburg early in the spring. His taunting Roane with

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 65
being ignored was but a card played to prejudice him as much
as possible against the Virginia board of directors. Doubtless
that very objection which they had to Graham's subscribing
wasiapprehensiveness less the road passed from their hands.
After this last meeting there was no longer any concealment
on Graham's part, so far as Roane was concerned. He dis
tinctly asserts that the land grants, contracts, and options are
their private land interests. The following correspondence
forever sets this matter at rest, and shows that the options got
ten under, by virtue of, and through the authority of the New
River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing Company were
appropriated in toto by Sergeant and his capturing friends :
Philadelphia, July 22, 1874.
Mr. Richard B. Roane, Dublin, Va. : •
My Dear Sir, — Mr. Sergeant wishes you to come here and bring with you
all papers and memoranda you have in connection with our private land in
terests. We are deliberating on our plans on this and railroad matters, and your
presence with papers and information is necessary.
Mr. English writes you to-day.
Very truly yours, THOMAS GRAHAM.
With this letter from Thomas Graham one came from T. B.
English, which reads as follows :
No. 233 South 3d St., Philadelphia, July 22, 1890.
Mr. Richard B. Roane, Land Agent and Mining Engineer, New River
Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing Company, Dublin, Va. .
My Dear Sir, — I am instructed by the president to request you to come
to this city, and to bring with you all papers, contracts, deeds, maps, &c,
appertaining to the business of this company in your possession, for exami
nation, &c.
Please draw on me at sight for one month's salary and travelling expenses,
and advise of the probable time of your arrival here, in order that Mr. Ser
geant may arrange to meet you.
Very respectfully, T. B. ENGLISH,
Secretary and Treasurer N. R. R. R., M. & M. Co.
-Is it not passing strange that Thomas Graham should have
to write such a letter, underscoring " private interests," at the

66 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
same time that the secretary of the company writes to Roane
to come in his official capacity? There is but one reasonable
solution : these land options had been gotten apart from the
railroad company, which was justly entitled to them, and
Thomas Graham, fearing that Mr. Roane would not consider
these as a part of the railroad papers, deemed it more expedient
to speak plainly as to the meaning of the request in Secretary
English's letter. That Richard B. Roane did not consider
them as in any way connected with the New River Railroad,
Mining, and Manufacturing Company is conclusively shown
later on.
What took place at Philadelphia when Roane went on is not
positively known except between the parties themselves. But
from evidence before us the options, leases, grants, contracts,
and so forth, were deposited with J. Dickinson Sergeant.
There has been some little question as to what properties those
options, leases, and contracts included. Some have contended
that they were simply leases and options of iron mines in and
about Giles and Tazewell, but the following letter, coupled
with the memorandum already given, shows that they were
options on those valuable coal lands around about Laurel creek,
in Tazewell, where the mining town of Pocahontas now stands,
and some of the Bluestone coal lands:
Abb's Valley, Tazewell County, Va., August 22, 1872.
Richard B. Roane :
Dear Sir, — I hasten to reply to your letter received a few days since.
Sqr. Moore says there is no doubt but that you can get the Osburn land, as
he is now holding correspondence with said Osburn to make the purchase,
and expects to let you have it. I saw Nelson, and he promised that you
should have the refusal, and will sell to no one else before giving you the
first chance. I saw my son and many others, all of whom seem to be
willing now to give one-half to come up to your terms — myself with the bal
ance. It is difficult for me to ascertain the exact amount of acres, but I know
one thing : that is, the company can secure one-half of all, or nearly all, of
the mineral lands on Laurel, and that is all they want. There is only two
persons but what is willing to come into the arrangement, so I hope that this
will satisfy the company. Dr. Johnson is doing well. He, Mr. Moore, and

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 67
myself are the working men for the company. Write me without delay, and
if there is anything that I can do, let me know, and it shall be attended to.
Respectfully, A. A. SPOTTS.
This property which Mr. Spotts speaks of, on Laurel creek,
is among the best of the coal mines in that section now, and
worth probably many millions of dollars. Mr. Spotts was under
the impression that the negotiations were in favor of the New
River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing Company. The
memorandum which we have quoted from shows that his im
pression Avas correct.
By some means or other Governor Walker failed to partici
pate in the new arrangement and reorganization for some time
afterwards. W. W. Wood appears upon the scene again by
writing the following letter: 515 Olive Street, St. Louis, Mo.
Dear Roane, — What's become ofthe railroad and the mineral property?
I saw Graham in Philadelphia, and he gave me an account of the proceedings
at the reorganization of the New River railroad, with the name of the presi
dent-elect, &c. He told me that the president would immediately organize
things and proceed actively to work in building the road. He told me that
Governor Walker was not in it, but that he intended to protect you fully.
Write me all about it, and anything of interest besides that you can think of.
I am here at above address — have stuck out my shingle as attorney at law.
My prospects are good, and I believe I will do well. Write me all about the
iron. Very truly yours, W. W. WOOD.
In 1875, the line was surveyed, commencing at New river.
It was to run to Hinton, with power to build any branch roads
that might be necessary to bring out minerals. Of course this
branch line had indirect reference to the counties of Wise,
Giles, Bland, Buchanan, and others, but pointed more directly
to the rich coal-fields near Abb's Valley, in Tazewell, and the
county of Mercer, West Virginia. There was but little known
.regarding this company until 1878, when the State convicts
were, placed upon the line and grading begun for a narrow-
gauge railroad, and the plan conceived by General Wharton in
1871, which was deemed almost impossible by every one, be
came a living reality. These convicts were secured through

- 68 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
General Wharton, who not only succeeded in getting an act
passed to that effect, but personally went security upon Thomas
Graham's bond, which had to be given to the State before the
Governor would allow them to go.
In the meanwhile, between the years 1875 and 1878, R. B.
Roane was still seeking leases, grants, and options upon the
mineral properties adjacent and tributary to the proposed line.
Several of these original options are still extant, with the name
of owner of land, the county in which it was situated, amount
specified, and terms of lease. All were obtained in the name of
J. Dickinson Sergeant, of Philadelphia. Most of these contracts
which did not go into Sergeant's possession were obtained in the
counties of Bland and Giles, Virginia, and Mercer county,
West Virginia. They appear to have been gotten on or about
the 17th or 18th of May, 1877. Why these failed to reach
their destination is accounted for from the fact that in the year
1878 there was a difficulty between Roane and Sergeant in
reference to the part Roane should have for services rendered.
We give below copy of a contract drawn by Sergeant, which
will show that he acknowledges indebtedness for Roane's ser
vices. There seemed to have arisen some misunderstanding,
because a letter of Roane's, which we will give later on, clearly
shows that. This agreement is signed by J. Dickinson Ser
geant, and was evidently forwarded by him to R. B. Roane for
signature, who refused to append his name to it on the ground
of its being defective. The contract is as follows :
Agreement made this  day of October, A. D. 1878, between J. Dick
inson Sergeant, ofthe city of Philadelphia, president ofthe New River Com
pany, and trustee holding certain lands and leases on and near New river, in
Virginia and West Virginia, for himself, Richard Wood, Harvey Beckwith,
and Lewis Rodman, of the one part, and Richard B. Roane, of the other.
Whereas the said Roane has rendered services, time, and labor to, for, and
about the business of the New River Railroad Company, and about the ob
taining and negotiating for the lands and leases now held by the said Sergeant,
as trustee aforesaid, upon the stipulation that he should have the privilege of
taking at the cost thereof, with interest and expenses added, one sixteenth
part ofthe stock of the said company, and a similar proportion in the said
lands and leases : Now this agreement witnesseth, that the said Sergeant, in

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 69
consideration ofthe services of the said Roane as aforesaid, and of one dollar
unto him in hand paid by the said Roane, the receipt whereof is hereby ac
knowledged, doth declare and agree that the said New River Railroad Com
pany shall and will issue to the said Roane, on payment by him of one-six
teenth part of the cost thereof, with interest and expenses added, one-six
teenth part of the stock of said company ; and that he, the said Sergeant,
shall and will, on payment by the said Roane of one-sixteenth part ofthe cost
thereof, with interest and expenses added, grant and assure to the said
Roane, his heirs, executors, administrators, and assigns, one-sixteenth part
of the lands and leases on and near New river held by the said Sergeant as
aforesaid, and that upon any sale of the stock, leases, and lands before the
said Roane shall have obtained said transfer, the said Roane shall be entitled
to receive one-sixteenth part of the profits of said sale, to be ascertained by
deducting from the sum realized the cost of acquisition of the same, with in
terest and expenses thereof.
Provided, however, that nothing herein contained shall be deemed to vest
in the said Roane (prior to the payment by him of the one-sixteenth part of
the cost, interest, and expenses aforesaid) any further or other right or title
than the right to participate in the profits from sales of the stock, lands, and
leases aforesaid, should there be a sale of the same by the parties holding
title thereto. And the said Roane hereby agrees to accept the interest hereby
intended to be secured to him in full payment and satisfaction for his services
to the said New River Railroad Company, and to the said Sergeant and those
for whom he is acting as trustee. In witness whereof, the said parties have
hereunto set their hands and seals the date aforesaid.
(Signed) J. D. SERGEANT. [L. S.J
Witness present :
(Signed) Septimus E. Norris.
A' true copy: Park Phipps (Witness).
In this agreement the evidence is conclusive that Sergeant
did not hold these grants, leases, and options for the benefit of
the New River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing Com
pany, but for the personal benefit of himself and three others.
Where had gone the stockholders' interest in these valuable
options and leases originally negotiated for in the name of the
company ? Echo answers, " Where ? "
Mr. Roane misunderstqod the contract in two particulars.
He thought that the interest he should have in the option and
leases should be entirely distinct from his participation in the
stock of the New River railroad. He regarded the two as
totally distinct transactions, just as Sergeant really held when

70 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
he termed one interest for himself as trustee for others. More
over, Roane evidently understood that he was to have the
interest for services rendered without any jsayment of cost and
expense. That this was the original agreement there can be
no doubt, for the correspondence, as well as extrinsic facts,
prove it. But J. Dickinson Sergeant, having possession of these
leases and options, chose to take a different position. Mr.
Roane's letter written concerning the contract gives his views
thoroughly upon the subject. It is as follows :
Newbern, Va., March 17, 1879.
J. D. Sergeant, Esq. .
Dear Sir, — I return one of the contracts unsigned. I have examined it
carefully for the first time. It is very much mixed, and susceptible of too
many constructions — that is, the railroad company and the land company is
mixed up together in such a way that one cannot be distinguished from the
other ; in fact, they are made to appear in the contract as one and the same,
while, as I understand it, they are separate and distinct. If this understand
ing be correct, they should be separated and made distinct in the contract,
or there should be separate contracts. The wording of the contract is such
that it brings the railroad and land company together in such a way that they
cannot be separated. I am sure this was not your intention. Again, the
wording of the contract is such that it makes the interest intended to be
secured contingent only in the event of a sale, or upon my paying such a
portion of prime costs ; and even this is foreshadowed with some doubt from
the phraseology. And under the programme, as I understand it, there will
be no sale ; hence I am excluded from the contract unless I can by some
chance raise the money necessary to.be paid from some outside source,
which is simply impossible, as I am dependent on my daily labor for suste
nance. I am therefore forever excluded under the contract, unless some
one will take it off my hands at whatever they may choose to give, although
the enterprise may pay for itself in one year, and its net earnings may there
after be large. Yet I can never participate under the contract unless there
is an actual and absolute sale of the stock, lands, leases, rights, franchises,
&c, or by my paying the certain proportion, in some source independent of
the enterprise, whatever its net earnings may be. Thus, suppose the parties
now in interest continue, the road built, the mines and lands utilized,
worked, and ore shipped and manufactured — in one year the thing has paid
for itself, and the next there is a net profit. Under the contract I am excluded
from participation because I am unable to pay my proportion independent of
the earnings of the enterprise. If there is no sale, there is no contract
unless I can get the money from some outside source to pay the proportion
as mentioned, which I am not able to do, and doubtless never will be, unless

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 71
the earnings of such operations are to be applied in this way, which the con
tract does not provide for. While this may be implied, we may die at any
time, and this implication disregarded. The contract is imperfect and worded
wrong. My first impulse was to 'sign it without comment, but knowing that
you meant and intended differently from what the contract expresses, I
thought it best to return the contract and call your attention to its defects.
There is not a court in the land but what would construe this contract as I
have. Yours very truly, RICHARD B. ROANE.
In regard to his having gotten these options in J. D. Ser
geant's name, Mr. Roane's explanation is this :
" When I. went into Tazewell and Mercer I was under the impression that
the organization of the New River Railroad and Manufacturing Company was
illegal, so I obtained them in limited grants, in an independent capacity."
Messrs. Graham and Sergeant failed signally to liquidate
Roane's claim, as just as it was, so far as they were concerned,
and he was on the eve of bringing suit to recover his rights
when the New River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing
Company was said to have passed into the hands of innocent
purchasers — the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company. The
exact time at which the New River Railroad, Mining, and
Manufacturing Company passed into the possession of the Nor
folk and Western railroad, or Clarence H. Clark and his asso
ciates, is not exactly known, but we gather from the first annual
report for the year ending December 31, 1881, of the Norfolk
and Western Railroad Company, that the negotiations for
the New River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing Com
pany, and all its branches, properties, and rights, were com
pleted at the time that Clarence H. Clarke and his associates
were purchasing the Norfolk and Western railroad, which at
that time was the Atlantic, Mississippi and Ohio railroad.
The purchase of the latter was made under sale by decree of
court on February 10, 1881. Their first annual report shows
this fact on page 6. It reads :
" In the proceedings on the bill the said court, on the 9th day of May, 1879,
pronounced a decree of foreclosure and sale; and on the 10th day of February,
1881, the road, property, franchises, and rights were sold to Clarence H.

72 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
Clark and his associates for the sum of $8,605,000, subject to liens and en
cumbrances amounting to $4,898,159.14, including the interest calculated to
the first day of January, 1881."
In this same first annual report there is something said con
cerning the New River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing
Company, on page 15 :
"The Norfolk, and Western Railroad Company has acquired the control
of the various roads in the States of Virginia and West Virginia, which,
aggregated, constitute what is known as the New River Railroad Company.
This line commences at the junction with the Norfolk and Western Railroad
Company at New river bridge, and running down the New river and its tribu
taries, as at present projected, will be about seventy miles in length, with
authority under its charters to extend up New river to the North Caro
lina border, and in various directions upon tributaries to the river. At its
proposed terminus it strikes a superb body of Kanawha coal in what is
known as the Flat Top region. The surveys were completed and work com
menced August 3, 1881."
When we come to the beginning and inception of the Nor
folk and Western Railroad Company, in the chapter containing
its historj7, this subject will be reverted to again.
The Pocahontas and Flat Top coal regions, opened up by
this company's railroad, is one ofthe best coal countries in the
United States. These lands lie in a part of Tazewell county,
Virginia, and Mercer, McDowell, Wyoming, and Raleigh
counties, West Virginia. The coal is not only of first-rate
quality, but apparently of almost inexhaustible quantities.
Throughout a large portion of Flat Top Mountain the coal is
above water level, and lies most conveniently for cheap and
expeditious mining. The mineral is deposited in layers
throughout the mountain, and mined by an entrance cut into
the solid bank of coal, on the side of the hill. Tipples are
erected near this entrance, and through them the coal goes
into a railrod car — after being screened and the fine coal sepa
rated. These coals, geologically, are the lowest members of the coal
measures, and are the equivalent ofthe Quinimont group ofthe
Kanawha region and the Pottsville conglomerate of Pennsyl-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 73
vania. They are low in sulphur and ash, and unusually high
in fixed carbon. The coal-bed everywhere j^resents, so far as
discovered, a working thickness of 11'3" around Pocahontas,
and holds its working dimensions until it reaches Flipping
creek, six or seven miles off, where it divides into two beds, eabh
¦some 4J and 5^ feet thick. Westward of Pocahontas, along
Laurel creek, the bed carries its thickness fairly well for a
distance of eight miles, and shows pretty well the same section
for quite a distance north of the dividing ridge, on the waters
of the Elkhorn and the Tug Fork of Sandy. A large area of
country is underlaid with this coal, and it has been estimated
that it should yield 10,000 tons per acre, while the upper beds
should add probably 6,000 tons more. The quality of it has
been tested both in the laboratory and by actual practice, and
for steaming and coking it has been found very superior. As
a domestic coal, it is generally used, and pronounced good.
But a safer and better idea of its quality can be gained frorn
McCreath and D'Invillier's analysis. In their report on " the
New river-Cripple creek region," they give the following analy
sis in connection with its quality from an average of fifteen
samples :
Water. Volatile Matter. Fixed Carbon. Sulphur. Ash.
1.011 18.812 74.256 .730 5.191
By analysis, this coal is superior to the Cumberland, Clear
field, Broad Top, Connellsville coking, Westmoreland and
Cardiff (Wales) coals.
Its analysis as a coking coal is superior in every respect.
The same valuable report already quoted gives the analysis ot
the coke taken from these companies' ovens in that region :
Water  182 .196 .664
Volatile matter . . . .719 .494 1.059
Fixed carbon . . . 92.248 92.585 92.816
Sulphur  565 .677 .548
Ash  6.286 6.048 4.913
100.000 100.000 100.000
Since the discovery of this valuable field many coal opera
tions have begun. At present the following works are in active

74 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
operation in Tazewell county, Virginia, and Mercer and Mc
Dowell counties, West Virginia:
In Tazewell, the Southwest Virginia Improvement Company.
In Mercer county, West Virginia, in what is known as the
Bluestone region (because the Bluestone river flows through
the country), are John Cooper & Co., the Caswell Creek Coal
and Coke Company, the Buckeye Coal and Coke Company,
the Booth-Bowen Coal and Coke Company, the Good-will
Coal and Coke Company, the Louisville Coal and Coke Com
pany. In McDowell county, on the Elkhorn extension of the Nor
folk and Western Railroad Company, we have the Coaldale
Coal and Coke Company, the Elkhorn Coal and Coke Com
pany, the Shamokin Coal and Coke Company, the Norfolk
•Coal and Coke Company, the Lick Colliery, the Turkey Gap
Coal and Coke Company, the Crozier Coal and Coke Com
pany, the Houston Coal and Coke Company, the Powhatan
Coal and Coke Company, the Lynchburg Coal and Coke Com
pany. These are all actively engaged in shipping. Many others
are obtaining leases, and as the railroad extends on through
McDowell towards Ironton will begin shipping. To give an
idea of the immense amount of coal and coke shipped from
these regions we subjoin a table of the shipments since 1883 :

Coal.

Coke.

1883 ...

. . 54,552 tons.

23,762 tons

1884

153,229 "

56,360 "

1885 

. . . 499,138 "

48,571 "

18.SH .

739,018 "

59,021 "

1887

992,260 "

151,171 "

1888 . ,

. 1,343,312 "

202,808 "

1889 .

. . . . 1,543,900 "

310,504 "

These figures do not include the coal mined altogether, be
cause the miners and their families burn an unlimited supply
for their own consumption.
As we may easily understand, the opening up of these works
was the cause of the growth of towns and the country as if
by magic. Pocahontas in two years grew into a city number-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 75
ing its inhabitants among the thousands, while Bramwell, Gra
ham, Simmons, and Mill Creek soon followed. From a howl
ing wilderness of mountains the whole community in those
sections became, as if by an electric shock, a rushing, thriving
business place ; and now in that mining section embracing a
corner in each ofthe three counties of Tazewell, Virginia, and
Mercer and McDowell counties, West Virginia, the population
is hardly less than twenty thousand people. The wages of the
miners are good, and as they are a class of people who do not
believe in denying themselves, there has been a steady business
rush all the time. A great deal of money has been made in
speculating and dealing in coal lands, and the formation &£
joint stock companies of various kinds have, more than any
thing else, tended to develop each and every resource of the
country. Certainly, just from this section alone, the New river
division of the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company has
almost inexhaustible supplies from which to draw. But, in
addition to this great coal section, over this line of road will
come the mineral products of the Clinch Valley country, which
more properly belong to the history of the Clinch Valley ex
tension of the great Norfolk and Western system.

CHAPTER V.
The Norfolk and Western Railroad Company : Its inception and beginning —
The Norfolk and Petersburg Railroad Company — The Southside Rail
road — The Virginia and Tennessee Railroad — The Virginia and Kentucky
Railroad — The New River branch — Creation of the extension mort;
gage — The Cripple Creek extension — The Norfolk Terminal Company—
The Bluestone extensions — The Clinch Valley extension — The Elk
Horn extension to Ironton, Ohio — The Scioto Valley Railroad — The
Southeastern extension into North Carolina — The Shenandoah Valley
division — Increase in mileage of the Norfolk and Western Railroad for
the past ten years — Increase in passenger and freight traffic — Increase of
its rolling stock — Its financial advance.
THE Norfolk and Western Railroad Company has played
such an important part in the development of Southwest
Virginia that it deserves a full account of its various
operations from its inception to the present time ; and the
rapidity with which it has advanced in every way for the past
nine years makes everything connected with it of more than
ordinary interest. There is scarcety another railroad in the
Southern States which has done so much for the development
of the country through which it runs, or enriched its owners
more. So phenomenal has been the success of the company
in the section of country of which we are writing that its name
has a kind of talismanic effect there and its objectionable fea
tures cheerfully borne on account of its developing policy.
In 1851 the Norfolk and Petersburg railroad was chartered,
and opened for traffic in 1852. This road ran between Norfolk
and Petersburg, a distance of some eighty-one miles. It passes
through what is known as the Great Dismal Swamp, which at
that time was a scene of horror, but is now being gradually
reclaimed and cultivated; thence on through Nansemond
county, by Suffolk ; next the road runs through Isle of Wight
county by Windsor, Zuni, and through Southhampton, Sus
sex, Prince George, and Dinwiddie counties, until Petersburg is

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 77
reached — a city of some thirty thousand people. As may well
be imagined, this railroad did a small business until others
connected with it were put in operation.
As far back as 1846 the Southside Railroad Company was
chartered, but was not constructed -and placed in operation
until the year 1857, when it was opened for traffic between
Petersburg and Lynchburg. This road runs from the former
place through Dinwiddie, Nottoway, Prince Edward, Appo
mattox, and Campbell counties to Lynchburg, in the latter
county, one hundred and twenty-three miles from Petersburg^
The country through which it passes presents an uninviting
aspect to the eye, but is really a good one. The railroad, in
order to select the best grade possible, runs as much along the
ridge as practicable, excluding from sight many fertile spots
and good farms. Leaving Farmville, in travelling westward ,.
the plateau begins, which is really a fine section from there on
to Lynchburg. Many towns have sprung up along this route
since its earlier history, among which may be mentioned
Blackstone, Crewe, Burkeville, Farmville, Prospect, and
Pamplin. The live, business capacity of some of these places
argue with force that the possibilities of this section of the
country are great.
The Virginia and Tennessee railroad, chartered in March,
1849, and opened in 1857, runs westward from Lynchburg
through Bedford, Botetourt, Roanoke, Montgomery, Pulaski,.
Wythe, Smyth, and Washington counties to Bristol, Tennes
see — a distance of two hundred and four miles from Lynch
burg. This line traverses a part of the great Southwest of
which we are particularly writing, and the towns, cities, and
counties contiguous to this branch of the road will not be espe
cially mentioned now.
Another road was chartered, and partially constructed, in
connection with the three we have mentioned, which was
known as the Virginia and Kentucky railroad. This route
was to extend from Bristol to Cumberland Gap. The road
was, however, placed in other hands, as we shall see later on.

78 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
On June 17, 1870, the Legislature of Virginia passed an act
entitled, " An act to authorize the formation of the Atlantic,
Mississippi and Ohio railroad," which was for the purpose of
merging, absorbing, and consolidating the Norfolk and Peters
burg Railroad Company, the Southside Railroad Company,
the Virginia and Tennessee Railroad Company, and the Vir
ginia and Kentucky Railroad Company, all four of which were
in a separate existence at that time. This consolidation was
not effected without a great deal of trouble, and even at this
day queer lobbying tales are told of how champagne flowed
and Havana cigars were handed around among the law-makers
on the evening of the day previous to that of the passage of the
act. People along the lines of the companies were opposed, on
the ground that it would not be to their interest — why, it
was impossible to divine. That the consolidation was a good
measure for the country at large is beyond all doubt, for by
that means a traffic was established which redounded to Vir
ginia's benefit. This new company was placed under the man
agement of General William Mahone, who has since rendered
himself famous in Virginia politics; who, though censured by
some for the manner in which he conducted the affairs of the,
company, undoubtedly improved and added to the condition of
the road. It was during the year 1874, in April, that by an
act of the Virginia Legislature the stock of the Virginia and
Kentucky railroad owned by the Atlantic, Mississippi and Ohio
Company passed from its control. The road apparently was
prospering under General Mahone's rule, for the traffic in
creased, while new stock, iron, and station-houses were all
placed along the line of the road. This road controlled the
branch from Petersburg to City Point, and the extension from
Glade Springs, in Washington county, to the salt works,
about nine miles distant. On October 1st, 1874, the Atlantic,
Mississippi and Ohio Railroad Company failed to pay the semi
annual interest due upon the mortgaged debt it had created.
This was a surprise indeed, and still more did consternation
stare all in the face when on April 1, 1875, the semi-annual

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 79
interest was in default again. This second failure caused the
trustees, under deed of September 9, 1870, to file theii bill in
the circuit court of the United States for the Eastern District
of Virginia, praying that a receiver be appointed to take an
account of all liens and incumbrances, and a sale of the prop
erty, rights, and franchises of the road. On the 9th day of
May, 1879, the court decreed a sale of the property, and who
should purchase the Atlantic, Mississippi and Ohio railroad
became an absorbing topic in railroad circles.
At this time this company owned and operated four hundred
and twenty-eight miles of railroad, running through a good
portion of Eastern Virginia and the very heart of the great
Southwest. At Bristol it connected with the East Tennessee,
Virginia and Georgia, while at Norfolk it possessed harbor
facilities unexcelled on the Atlantic coast. A rich, succulent,
agricultural country enclosed it on both sides, and it had more
than a modicum of advantages usually possessed by railroads
in the Southern States. The mineral resources along its lines
were superb.
It was to these that the Northern capitalists were turning
their attention — the coal and iron in Southwest Virginia — and
on the tenth day of February, 1881, the Atlantic, Mississippi and
Ohio railroad, with its road, property, and franchises, was pur
chased by Clarence H. Clark and his associates for the sum of
$8,605,000, subject to liens and incumbrances amounting to
$4,898,159.14, including interest calculated to the first day of
January, 1881. This sale was duly confirmed by the court on
the fourth day of April, 1881, and then the purchasers were
designated as the "Norfolk and Western Railroad Company,"
under which the reorganization was perfected. The purchase
money was paid on the third day of May, 1881, and the road,
with its property, franchises, rights, and privileges, was deeded
to the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company by M. F. Pleas
ants, who was the commissioner appointed by the court, which
deed was duly recorded in the clerk's office of the hustings
court of the city of Norfolk. On the same day the Atlantic,

80 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
Mississippi and Ohio Railroad Company deeded to the Norfolk
and Western Railroad Company all the shares of the capital
stock of the Norfolk and Petersburg, the Southside, and the
Virginia and Tennessee railroad companies ; the Virginia and
Kentucky railroad stock having been already disposed of by
the Legislature of Virginia in 1874.
Then burst upon the financial horizon one ofthe most remark
able pecuniary reorganizations that ever startled the sober busi
ness sense of any man. The Atlantic, Mississippi and Ohio
Railroad Company, which was sold for $8,605,000, with divi
sional liens and incumbrances amounting to $4,898,159.14, in
cluding interest calculated to January 1, 1881, was reorganized
under the name of the Norfolk and Western railroad, with an
authorized capital stock of $25,000,000 and a general mortgage
indebtedness of $11,000,000.
The organization stood thus :
To amount authorized capital stock  $25,000,000 00
To 150,000 shares preferred stock issued Clar
ence H. Clark  $15,000,000 00
Common unassessable stock, subject to pre
ferred stock, and general mortgage bonds,
issued Clarence H. Clark . . . 3,000,000 00
Unissued capital stock . . .... 7,000,000 00
Total amount issued  $25,000,000 00
General mortgage bonds  $11,000,000 00
Amount issued to retire divisional liens . . . $5,137,000 00
For use ofthe treasury of the company 500,000 00
Issued to Clarence H. Clark  5,363,000 00
$11,000,000 00
A railroad which sold for about $13,503,159 was reorgan
ized for $36,000,000. People wondered at this financial opera
tion, and many predicted that the company would not pay in
terest upon the bonds, and that it would soon go into the hands
of a receiver. Not knowing at that time anything about the
New River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing Company,
which was the moving power behind the throne, one would
have supposed that Shakespeare was totally wrong when he
said there was nothing in a name.

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 81
In the first annual report of the Norfolk and Western Rail
road Company, on page 7, we find the reorganization stated
to be a compact between Clarence H. Clark and his associates.
Who the latter were is a matter which is not disclosed, but from
the reading of the language of the report itself they paid Clar
ence H. Clark a very good sum to purchase this property, if
they believed in its being of any value. The report reads :
"By the terms of the agreement between Clarence H. Clark and his asso
ciates, it was provided that in consideration of Clarence H. Clark's furnish-
'ing and paying the purchase money ($8,605,000) in cash, the Norfolk and
Western Railroad Company should deliver to Clarence H. Clark its general
mortgage bonds amounting- to $5,363,000, one hundred and fifty thousand
shares of its full-paid and unassessable preferred six per cent, capital stock,
and also thirty thousand shares of its full-paid and unassessable common
capital stock ; and it was further agreed that general mortgage bonds
amounting to $5,137,000 should be reserved to retire existing divisional
liens, and that general mortgage bonds amounting to $500,000 should be
reserved for the treasury of the company." '
If the $5,363,000 of mortgage bonds were worth par, and the
stock was worth par, which was given C. H. Clark for pur
chasing this company, then for paying some $8,605,000 for
the road he received the sum of $23,363,000 — a very substantial
rate of interest. That the $15,000,000 of preferred stock came
out all right we cannot doubt, sin'ce in the annual report ofthe
Norfolk and Western Railroad Company for 1883, on page 18,
we find the following :
"Your directors, believing that so long as it was considered advisable to
use the surplus earnings of the company for the purpose of bettering its prop
erty or increasing its facilities for doing business, the preferred shareholders
are entitled to scrip dividends representing the amount which has been so
applied, and which would otherwise be applicable to cash dividends, at a
meeting held December 26th, declared a scrip dividend of 3J per cent., paya
ble January 15, 1884, on the $15,000,000 of preferred shares then outstanding.
The scrip, when presented to the company in sums of $500, is exchangeable
into convertible debenture bonds, payable in 1894, bearing six per cent, inter
est, payable semi-annually."
The interest is paid upon these bonds, as well as the others
received by Clarence H. Clark, making the sum of $20,363,000

82 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
interest-bearing and good. What did Mr. Clark's associates
get? Whatever may have been the public opinion as to this
reorganization, Clarence H. Clark and his associates well knew
that the increased rate of freight and passenger traffic over the
lines of the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company would
justify the issue of the increased amount of stock and bonds.
They had possession of premises and facts concerning which the
general public was totally ignorant. Those were in connection
with the New River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing
Company, from which the coal options had been so ruthlessly
torn. Subsequent to the year 1878, after Sergeant and Roane
had arrived at a misunderstanding, as seen heretofore, there
must have been a reorganization of the New River Railroad,
Mining, and Manufacturing Company, because afterwards it
comes out under the new title of the New River Railroad Com
pany. In all probability the stock originally owned by the
shareholders of the New River Railroad, Mining, and Manu
facturing Company had been purchased by Mr. Sergeant and
his friends, and afterwards the company reorganized under
the latter name, with J. D. Sergeant's options, contracts, and min
eral leases attached, transforming virtually a poor corporation
into one worth millions. At all events, the first and second
annual reports of the Norfolk and Western railroad expressly
dwell upon the fact that the expected traffic from the opening
of the coal mines would greatly increase the earnings of the
Norfolk and Western Railroad Company, and that the latter
owned the New River Railroad Company. But those reports
are not explicit as to how the Norfolk and Western Railroad
Company came into the control and ownership of the New
River Railroad Company. Yet we are not without some evi
dence on that score, for in Poor's Railway Manual for 1883-84,
on page 361, we find the following in connection with the re
port on the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company :
"On the 9th of May, 1882, the New River Railroad Company of Virginia,
the].New River Railroad Company of West Virginia, and the East River Rail-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 83
road of West Virginia, which were chartered to build extensions of this road
hereinafter named, were consolidated into this company [the Norfolk and
Western Railroad Company]. By tlie terms of the consolidation the pre
ferred stock ofthe Norfolk and Western Railroad Company was exchanged
share for share for the preferred stock of the New River Railroad Company,
(of Virginia) and the common stock for the common stock share for share of
the same company and for the ordinary stock of the other companies. Un
der this plan the company issued 30,000 shares of its preferred stock during
the year in exchange for a like amount of the New River preferred. The
stocks of these companies having been wholly owned by the Norfolk and
Western Railroad Company, the preferred stock so issued is held in that
company's treasury for future use."
This merger and consolidation especially state that the Nor
folk and Western Railroad Company owned wholly and entirely
this preferred New River railroad stock. So we see that pre-
vious to this date (May 9, 1882) the fruits of Graham's and
Sergeant's transactions had passed into the Norfolk and West
ern Railroad Company's hands. The evidence is almost con
clusive that upon this New River railroad, already owned, the
Norfolk and Western Railroad Company based its organiza
tion, and made an issue of stocks and bonds founded upon the
traffic of the railroad company, after a consolidation with the
New River Railroad Company, whose stbck it controlled at the
time. Nor were the calculations of Mr. Clarence H. Clark and
his associates at all wrong as to the increase of traffic that would
arise for their road subsequently to a consolidation with the
best known coal and coking fields in the South. From that
time on the success of this company was almost all that could
be desired.
This New River division was opened to the coal-fields May
21, 1883, and the first shipments of coal made in the fol-
' lowing month of June, 1883. The beginning of shipping coal
from these great mineral fields was marked in letters of red for
the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company, and the abun
dance of coke which would naturally be produced led to the
abolishing of the charcoal furnaces iii the Cripple creek region
and coke furnaces erected in their stead. To form a connection
between the cbking fields of the Flat Top region and the ore

I
84 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
belt about Cripple creek was the next step of the Norfolk and
Western Railroad Company — a wise and judicious one.
The first step taken by the company was the creation of an
improvement and extension mortgage for $5,000,000, with
power under certain restrictions to increase the sum to $8,000,-
000, for the purpose of double-tracking. Under this mortgage
the bonds issued were to bear 6 per cent, interest and the first
issue limited to $2,500,000. Proposals having been made for
these bonds which were satisfactory, the proceeds were to be
used as follows (Third Annual Report, page 21) :
" First. The construction ofthe Cripple Creek extension ofthe New River
division is about fifty (50) milds in length. This work was put under con
tract December 10, 1883, and the line is expected to be completed and in
operation before the close of the year 1884. ,
"Second. For increased terminal facilities at Norfolk. Contracts for this
work were entered into December 28, 1883, the work to be completed prior
to August 31, 1884.
"Third. To build short lines to new coal-fields.
" Fourth. For additional sidings, stations, and other improvements on the
main line. The remainder of the improvement and extension (mortgage)
bonds, $2,500,000, can, under the terms of the mortgage, be sold only when
the stockholders so vote, and only for the purpose of providing funds for
making improvements upon the main line, for increased terminal facilities,
for new rolling stock, and for new branches or extensions. If bonds are sold
for the purpose of constructing branches or extensions, the amount of bonds
sold for this purpose is limited to $25,000 per mile. In case of an issue of
bonds for the purpose of double-tracking the line, said issues are to be made
at the rate of $10,000 per mile, and no bonds are to be issued for this purpose
until at least fifty (50) miles of double track of standard quality has been con
structed." The building ofthe Cripple Creek extension, one of the pur
poses for which this improvement and extension mortgage was
created, opened up a mineral region rich beyond conception in
iron ore and heavy bearing in lead and zinc. We have already
touched upon the mineral deposits in this section, but some
better description is deserving as we follow the tortuous wind
ings of the extension through Pulaski, Wythe, and Carroll.
When this extension was first proposed, two routes were thought
of — one, by way of New river, beginning at New River bridge,

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 85
near the station by that name, thence up New river into this
ore region. For many reasons this route was considered by
some as the most practicable, since it would be but a continua
tion of the New River division already constructed into the
Flat-Top coal region. But a route was drawn by Mr. James
McGill, of Pulaski county, who lived not far from what was
then known as Martin's Tank, but now called Pulaski City.
He enclosed a sketch, drawn January 24, 1882, of the present
line of the Cripple Creek extension to Mr. George F. Tyler,
then president of the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company,
and the latter's reply shows that at this time (1882) the route
south of 110-mile post had been chosen. The letter is as fol
lows : Philadelphia, January 27, 1882.
Mr. James McGill, Martins, Pulaski County, Va. .
Dear Sir,— I have received your communication of the 24th instant in re
spect to the line which you think the most practicable for us to take in the
extension which we propose to make of the New River railroad above New
River bridge.
We have ourselves come to the conclusion that the line which you have
so neatly sketched is no doubt the one for us to take, and I am very much
obliged to you for the suggestions on the subject which you make.
Truly yours, GEORGE F. TYLER, President.
This sketch of Mr. McGill's is very neatly drawn, showing
the comparative distances of the two routes, and the territory
of the one desired by him. In 1883 the contracts for the con
struction of the road were let, and this extension became not
only an assured fact, but opened up the finest mineral region
in the i Southwest. This line has ultimately two objects in
view, as can be easily seen if we trace its meanderings. It
leaves the main line of the Norfolk and Western, railroad two
miles east of Pulaski City, running first in a course that has a
southern direction until it touches New river, when it sweeps
away in a western course almost parallel with the main line of
the Norfolk and Western railroad, with an intervening space
of some twelve miles of country between the two roads. It
continues on by Reed Island, Allisonia, Barren Springs, Pierce

86 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
Furnace, Foster Falls, Austinville, to Ivanhoe. From this
latter point is the extension on to North Carolina, to connect
with the Cape Fear and Yadkin Valley railroad, which will be
the southern outlet from Ohio after the Ironton extension is
finished from Elkhorn, in West Virginia, to Ironton, Ohio.
Another branch of the Cripple Creek extension runs from
Ivanhoe westward up Cripple creek to Speedwell, and this
route will undoubtedly be continued through the Rye Valley
iron district to the waters of the south fork of the Holston,
and thence to Abingdon, making a loop line with the main
route to Bristol. This extension has branch routes running to
furnaces and mines throughout this fine ore-bearing territory,
the principal of which are : The Pulaski Iron Company, Boom
Furnace, Barren Springs Furnace, Bertha Zinc Mines, Pierce
Furnace, Foster Falls, Ivanhoe Furnace, Ravencliff Furnace,
Beverley Furnace, and Speedwell Furnace. Many iron, lead,
and other mineral mines have been opened tributary to this
route, and will furnish much of the ore which will run furnaces,
eastward in the valley. The scenery along the line is beautiful
and picturesque in the extreme, whether we go by winding,
romantic New river, with its mountains and cliffs, or by wild,
weird Cripple creek, with its cascades and gorges. The quality
of this rich ore-bearing territory can best be gathered from the
analyses and opinions of experts on the subject. McCreath
and D'ln villiers, in their report on the New river-Cripple creek
region, has this to say concerning the ore. (Page 155.)
"All of the iron ore at present mined, and to be mined, in the New river-
Cripple creek region proper may be conveniently classed under the, general
heading of brown hematite ore, and is found associated in at least four well
recognized horizons or belts, extending in a general northeast and southwest
direction through the region, with the trend of the rock formations to which
they have been referred. The first and lowest, geologically, of these is the
' Pottsdam sandstone ore,' occurring in the body of the formation from which
it takes its name. These ores are locally known as the ' back vein,' or 'bed,'
and are characterized by having a dark brown to pitchy black color, and are
generally quite dense and brittle. Their composition is shown by the follow
ing average analysis of samples already incorporated in the body of this
report :

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AN* SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 87
"Average composition of the Pottsdam sandstone ores :
Metallic iron ....  50.200
Phosphorus  . ... ... . 1.007
Siliceous matter   10.012
Phosphorus in 100 parts iron  2.006"
The next class is the mountain ores, which yield 48.750 of
metallic iron. The limestone ores are particularly fine, of which
the report speaks as follows, ou page 155 :
" The limestone ores, on the other hand, by reason of their greater acces
sibility, higher percentage of iron, and more ready reduction in the small
charcoal furnaces, which have hitherto alone occupied this field, have been
sufficiently developed and worked in a large number of places to warrant an
opinion as to the richness ofthe ore material. From the last information we
could obtain bearing upon this subject, tlie general claim is that two tons of
ore material will yield one ton of clean wash ore, and this would seem to be
confirmed by our own tests made from five different pits and from samples
weighing from 14 to 93 pounds, which yielded the following percentages of
clean ore : 41 per cent., 53 per cent., 57 per cent., 59 per cent., and 60 per
cent." In addition to this rich ore deposit, the extension runs
through what is known as "the Blue Ridge Plateau," aud has
the reputation of being one ofthe finest grazing sections in the
State. From Pulaski City to Ivanhoe is some thirty-two miles,
making about forty-one miles from Pulaski City to Speedwell,
beyond Ivanhoe, the present western terminus of this exten
sion. And lastly, this region is the home ofthe " Gossan ore/'
to which we have already alluded as being peculiarly adapted
to the permitting of the use of high phosphorus and manganese
ores, which by themselves could never be used, and with this
ore a "red, cold short, or neutral iron" can be made.
The improvement of the property of the Norfolk Termi
nal Company is so intimately blended with the opening of the
coal mines that some notice should be given of it, although
not situated in Southwest Virginia, because it is one of the
improvements of this company which has a significant bearing
upon the mineral regions ofthe section of country Of which we
are writing. To meet the growing demands made upon the
company for increasing terminal facilities, and for the purpose

88 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
of speculation, the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company,
under the name of the Norfolk and Terminal Company, ob
tained a charter in 1882 from the Virginia Legislature, and
under it an organization was effected. The reason for this
charter and incorporation is given in the second annual report, /
on page 15, which says : j
"The Legislature, at its last session, granted a charter incorporating the
Norfolk Terminal Company. Under it an organization was duly effected.!
Although it is a separate and distinct organization, yet the control and own
ership is in the interest of your company. The charter authorizes the owner-j
ship of land, the construction and operation of a line of railroad, the building
and operating of wharves, store-houses, cotton-presses, grain elevators, char
tering of vessels, &c, and in other ways gives ample power and authority,
for the conduct of such business as will be necessary at so important and
growing a port as Norfolk, and will enable the company to carry into effect;
the recommendations of the stockholders at the last meeting in regard to im
proving and increasing the terminal facilities at Norfolk. Power is given the
Terminal Company to consolidate with this company, and the board recom
mend that such consolidation1 be effected when it is the interest of the com
pany to do so."
By virtue of the charter, the Norfolk Terminal Company
purchased several valuable wharf properties below the city,
near Lambert's Point, embracing about four hundred and
thirty-eight acres of land, and one and a half miles of water
front, and the necessarj' right of way to construct a railway line
connecting Elizabeth Station with Lambert's Point. Improve
ments of all kinds were made for the storage and proper hand
ling of grain, cotton, tobacco, and other produce, while piers
were erected for coaling vessels and ocean steamers. The com
pany also invested largely in the stock of the Old Dominion
steamship line, and purchased barges for the transportation of
grain, cotton, aud coal. So great and rapid were the improve
ments on this property that in the year 1884 they had con
structed a railroad from Norfolk to Lambert's Point, a distance
of 5.3 miles, together with yard room and sidings necessary
for the accommodation of the Norfolk and Western's tide
water coal traffic.

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 89
A magnificent pier, 894 feet in length and 60 feet wide, with
a height above water-mark of 48 feet, had been constructed,
which terminates at the United States lighthouse known as
" Lambert's Point Light." This superb structure is divided
into upper and lower stories, from each of which vessels can
be loaded, and is capable of storing 150 tons in each bin, having
45 bins in all. This pier is equipped with every modern appli
ance for loading, unloading, and handling of cars, and not l\ess
than 3,500 tons per diem can be received and discharged, while
the depth of the water in the approach to the main channel is
twenty-five feet at low tide.
Not only was this undertaking of great advantage to the
city of Norfolk, but a credit in many respects to the Norfolk
and Western Railroad Company. For the coal regions in
Southwest Virginia it was an undoubted benefit in many ways.
This semi-bituminous coal is said to be the best steaming fuel
known, and the number of steamers which coaled at Lambert's
Point gradually increased from the first construction of the
pier until the quantity consumed by them was a traffic of no
small magnitude in itself, and gave employment to thousands
of miners in the coal regions who would doubtless have been
idle had the coal trade depended entirely upon the inland traf
fic. In the year 1885, between March 12th and December 31st,
402 vessels of all kinds were loaded at the pier, among which
were forty-five ocean steamers. In 1886, 676 vessels of all
kinds were loaded, among which were ninety-five ocean steam
ers. The increase in this business alone was something enor
mous, while the storage houses erected for cotton, grain, tobacco,
and other produce for foreign shipment did an extensive busi
ness. In 1884 the capital stock of this company fully paid in
amounted to $322,026, of which $321,900 is owned by the
Norfolk and Western Railroad Company, and the operations
of the former are completely governed by the latter company.,
As amounts were furnished the Norfolk and Terminal .Com
pany by the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company, the
latter took the bonds ofthe former-. In this way every particle

90 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
of funds derived by the Terminal Company were furnished by
the railroad company, until the mortgage of $1,000,000 was
¦created on the properties of the Norfolk and Terminal Com
pany. These terminal facilities reflect unquestionable credit
upon the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company, and the
latter showed great wisdom in expending the necessary sums
for such proper facilities, without which it could not well handle
its large traffic. But why should this Terminal Company have
purchased more real estate than was necessary for the use of
the railroad company ?
That the Norfolk and Western railroad furnished this Ter
minal Company with the necessary means to purchase this real
•estate is a fact admitted in their annual reports, for out of
$322,026 owned by the Terminal Company, the railroad com
pany owned $321,900. (See Fourth Annual Report, page 24.)
It is further shown in one of their reports that lots were
sold. In the seventh annual report, on page 20, the language
is this, relating to this Terminal Company:
"The property of the Norfolk Terminal Company is operated by your
company, and the revenue derived from such operations is included in your
gross earnings. Of the real estate not required for the purposes of the com
pany, there were sold during the year lots to the value of $12,245, which
amount has been deposited with the trustee of the mortgage of the company,
and will be expended in improvements to the property."
Again, in the eighth annual report, on page 21, the language
reads thus, in reference to this same company:
"Of the real estate not required for the purposes of the Terminal Com
pany, there were sold during the year lots to the value of $8,805.02."
The only reason whieh can be assigned for the company's
purchasing more land than is necessary for the use of the rail
road is, it desired to sell the lots at a profit. Whilst commend
ing the wonderful developing policy of the Norfolk and
Western Railroad Company, we cannot help deploring the fact
that, under the name of another company, it should have vio
lated section 1073 ofthe Code of 1877, ofthe State of Virginia,

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 91
which expressly provides that no railroad company in the State
shall own more than forty acres in one parcel for its main
depots, machine shops, and other necessary purposes connected
with the business of said company. This statute was supposed
to be passed for the purpose of preventing railroad companies
from speculating. By some it is contended that the land was
not purchased in the name of the Norfolk and Western Rail
road Company, but by another company. Considering that
the Norfolk and Western railroad furnished the funds, and the
revenues were placed with their gross earnings, such contention
imputes to the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company an
amount of ignorance that is stupendous, or a subterfuge just
as contemptible. Again, some claim the right to be vested in
the company by its charter. It would seem passing strange
that the Legislature of Virginia should, by a special act of
legislation, set aside and nullify a general law passed in the in
terest of the State.
The first shipments of coal from the Flat Top region, as we
have seen, began in 1883, and during the years 1884 and 1885
the extension into the Bluestone country was completed. This
line, running from the New River division at Bluestone Junc
tion, to Mill Creek, Bramwell, Simmons, and Duhring, has at
last been completed as far as Goodwill, and opens up a coal
region of magnificent quantity and quality both. This exten
sion was made with a view to hauling out coal, and is some ten
miles in length, with branches to the various mines located on
the Bluestone river, and which yield a large output of coal
daily. Mill Creek, Bramwell, Simmons, and Goodwill are
flourishing places, and their growth appears almost magical
when we consider that a few years ago this portion of Mercer
county was nothing more than a lot of rugged, impassable
mountains, without any vestige of settlements except the huts
of mountaineers, who, though poor and lowly, were as brave
and loyal men as one could find anywhere.
The penetration of this country by this branch of the Norfolk
and Western was a transformation of this part of Virginia and

92 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. ,
\
West Virginia into a rushing, thriving, tax-paying community,
wrhich in 1881 was almost a sterile wilderness of mountains.
During the year 1887 the extension from Mill Creek was com
pleted as far as the station now knoWn as Elkhorn. The tun
nel through the mountain, some two miles from Mill Creek, is
a massive structure, and the trestles bridging the mountain
gorges wonderful in the extreme, showing the energy, pluck,
and determination of the Norfolk and Western Railroad Com-'
pany to bridge not only these seemingly impassable chasms,
but every difficulty presenting itself in the way of their onward
progress towards developing 'the country. This extension
opens up the vast coal-fields in McDowell county, where any
quantity of it lies buried, and thousands are daily employed to
unearth it. We will have more to say of this section when
we come to speak of the Ohio line to Ironton. In this coal
region up to January, 1888, there were 2,030 coke oven's in
course of construction and completed.
Prior to the year 1886 a charter had been obtained for the
construction of a railroad called " The Clinch Valley railroad," ,
and at the annual meeting of the stockholders in 1886 a reso
lution was passed empowering the directors ofthe Norfolk and
Western Railroad Company to make a consolidation of this
Clinch Valley extension with their company. By the terms of
the charter this company was given authority to locate and
construct a road " commencing in Tazewell county, at a point
at or near the New River division of the Norfolk and Western
Railroad Company, and running thence to such a point on or
near the Clinch river, Powell river, or either, or any branch,
thereof, in Russell, Wise, Scott, or Lee counties, and by such
route as might be deemed most suitable to the directors of said
company." On March 8 and May 2, 1887, the Norfolk and Western
Railroad Company and the Louisville aud Nashville Railroad
Company entered into contracts by which both agreed to con
struct and finish — each one respectively from its lines — this
extension to a point in Wise county, Virginia, both connecting

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 93
there. Work upon this extension by the Norfolk and Western
Railroad Company was begun on June 20, 1887, and pushed
forward as rapidby as possible. This road has been about
completed, and runs from Graham, on the New River division
of the Norfolk and Western, to Norton, at which latter point
it will connect with the Louisville and Nashville railroad.
The section through which it runs is by far one of the finest
in Southwest Virginia. It first traverses Tazewell county,
running by Tazewell Courthouse, Richlands, and Cedar
Bluff; then through Russell county, touching Honakers,
Cleveland, Saint Paul, and . Minneapolis, and on through
Wise, by Guest, to Norton, where it connects with the Louis
ville and Nashville railroad. On leaving Graham the line
goes through the far-famed grass section of Tazewell, noted
for its fine stock and agricultural products. As an outlet for
these alone the road would have been a boon to the county — a
success to its company; but, on leaving Tazewell, it touches
upon the very borders of the now celebrated Clinch Valley
coal region, which has a coal excellent for gaseous uses as well
as domestic purposes. Russell county, too, through which it
runs, is celebrated for its grazing capacity as well as fine stock,
and has many mineral-bearing properties. When the line
reaches Wise county it penetrates the heart of the coal country
stretching from this part of the county on towards Big Stone
Gap. Numerous towns have sprung up in a few years, such
as Richlands, Honakers, Minneapolis, Saint Paul, Norton, and
Big Stone Gap, all of which bid fair to become cities at no
great future date. Mineral City, near Big Stone Gap, claims
to be the centre of a variety of minerals for manufacturing
purposes. This route opens up a regular kingdom of lumber
and coal, the latter of which has been most complimentally
noticed on account of its gas properties ; while in live stock
and agricultural productions no place in the Southwest is
superior and richer. Mines are being opened and branch
roads constructed to them, and on all sides can be heard the
sound of the axe and the saw culling the best of hard-wood

94 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
lumber. The traffic from this section alone will be something
great, and the Norfolk and Western railroad can hardly fail to
reap the profits in passenger and freight traffic to which its
energy and spirit in opening up the country entitles it to. The
scenery all along the lipe is beautiful in the extreme, and every
variety, from the peaceful, charming valley to the rugged,
snow-capped mountains, greets the eye as the train rushes on
ward through fertile Tazewell and Russell and mineral-laden
Wise. With a view towards perfecting northwestern and south
eastern connections, and for other purposes deemed advisable
by the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company, on the 29th
day of October, 1889, this corporation created what is known
as the one-hundrecl-year mortgage, which is a first lien upon
the property when all underlying liens are refunded. This
mortgage first provides an issue of $10,000,000 5 per cent.
bonds, to be applied as follows :
" §1,000,000 for redeeming Norfolk Terminal Company's first mortgage.
" $975,000, to reimburse the company for expenditures by way of improve
ments, extensions, sidings, &c.
" $6,000,000 for construction of Ohio extension (Northwest).
"$1,500,000 for the North Carolina extension.
"$525,000 for retiring the convertible debenture loan of the company." —
(Ninth Annual Report, page 21.)
The creation of this mortgage enabled the Norfolk and West
ern Railroad Company to construct the two extensions named
above, and since these have added materially to the progress of
this company about which we are writing, they deserve men
tion, although the Northwest (or Ohio) branch does not run
through the southwest of Virginia.
The Ohio extension, as located and partly constructed, " fol
lows the waters of Big Sandy river from the present northwest
ern terminus of your line, at Elkhorn, in McDowell county,
West Virginia, for about ninety-five miles; thence about fifteen
miles over a low summit to the head-waters of Twelve Pole
creek, which it follows for about seventy-one miles, and crosses

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 95
the Ohio river by a steel bridge, and runs about fourteen miles
to Ironton, Ohio, making a total distance of not less than one
hundred and ninety-five miles."
The value of this line, not only to the Norfolk and Western
Railroad Company, but Southwest Virginia, can readily be ap
preciated when the results of its construction are calculated.
The city of Norfolk, being one of the best harbors on the At
lantic coast, will have a direct route from Tronton, Ohio, and
the purchase of the Scioto Valley railroad, with the route under
construction from Ashland, Kentucky, to Kenova, on the bor
ders of Kentucky, Ohio, and West Virginia, will place Norfolk,
Virginia, in almost instant communication with Columbus, the
capital of the State of Ohio. The granaries of the West, with
the live stock bred in the same country, will be poured into
the East, giving this extension an importance and bearing-
which is not easily calculated. The coal regions through
which it goes are of almost endless quantity and consist of sev
eral varieties. In the county of McDowell the Flat Top coking
coals of the Pocahontas region are traversed, while farther on
the line penetrates the domestic coals of Logan county. Near
Warfield, in Martin county, Kentucky, the road bends to the
right, and in Wayne county, West Virginia, it divides the can-
nel and splint coal region, which will give a splendid traffic in
these latter varieties.
This route will not only cause Norfolk to increase as a ship
ping point for. foreign exports, but will be the means of con
necting the Northwest with the Southeast. The line extending
south from Ivanhoe, on the Cripple Creek extension, will
push its way forward until a connection is established with the
Cape Fear and Yadkin Valley railroad at Mount Airy, in
North; Carolina, which will place Columbus, Ohio, in immediate
connection with the Southern sea-coast at Wilmington, North
Carolina. Coal will be shipped there and cotton brought back
into the Northwest and on to Norfolk. The connection will
give the Norfolk and Western railroad outlets south, southeast,.
west, and northwest ; and the northern connections it possesses

96 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
by way of the Shenandoah Valley makes its system of great
value as a leading trunk line north and south and east and
west. With these advantages the company will be in a condi
tion to do a large traffic in every direction.
While we may imagine, it is impossible to ascertain with
any degree of certainty the growth of this corporation without
an inquiry into the rapid increase of the mileage, traffic, and
rolling stock of the company. In the year 1881, when the
Atlantic, Mississippi and Ohio railroad was reorganized as the
Norfolk and Western Company, there were four hundred and
twenty-eight miles of railway. Now, with the Cripple Creek,
New River, Flat Top, Clinch Valley, Ironton, Scioto Valley,
and the southeastern extensions, and the Shenandoah Valley
railroad, there are almost twelve hundred and thirty-four miles
of track, not including sidings, switches, and what double track
that has been constructed. The construction of these lines has
been effected in the best manner possible — the heaviest steel
rails, iron bridges, the most approved masonry, and solid stone
ballast being used in order to procure comfort and safety in
the highest degree possible.
It is not difficult to see that with such a wonderful extension
of railway the passenger and freight traffic has grown accord
ingly. Both departments are taxed to their utmbst to accom
modate this increase, as the following tables will show.
The passenger traffic was as follows :
In 1881  . . 215,904
1882   263,347
1883  307,927'
1884 . . . .  . . 412,452
1885   388,087
1886  400,269
1887  558,951
1888  771,248
1889  '. . . .841,986
This route has become a favorite one, and the opening up of
all this section has been the means of thousands of passengers
travelling over the line. The usual number of passenger

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 97
coaches to each train is four and five, and they are invariably
crowded. The freight statistics also show a marked increase.
There were carried over the road —
In 1881  538,102 tons.
1882 '  609,727 "
1883  797,255 "
1884  892,512 "
1885  1,199,790 "
1886  1,555,867 "
1887  . . 2,208,688 "
1888  2,763,376 "
1889  3,435,797 "
We cannot refer to any common carrier within our knowl
edge which has increased so rapidly in freight traffic. Of
course it is mainly due to the opening up of the vast mineral
regions in Southwest Virginia and the large increase in the
agricultural resources throughout the country. The minerals
began to be shipped about the year 1882, and a comparison of
the number of tons carried that year with the number in 1889
will give some idea how rapidly the Southwest has advanced :
1882. 1889.
Iron ore  1,399 tons. 249,374 tons.
Pig-iron . .  13,372 " 161,215 "
Coal  4,735 " 1,543,900 "
Coke ....  310,504 "
Stone  6,181 " 87,965 "
Salt  9,270 " 14,453 "
Plaster  3,405 " 5,580 "
Zinc ore  2,872 " 12,321 "
Zinc spelter  490 " 2,972 "
Manganese  1,648 " 152 "
Miscellaneous  4,939 " 48,321 "
We cannot fail to give our praise to this company when we
see the wonderful progress it has made in aiding and assisting
in the development of Southwest Virginia, and the untiring
energy it has exhibited in giving an impetus to everything. In
1881 the rolling stock of the company consisted of 81 locomo
tives, 24 passenger coaches, 2 sleeping cars, 4 postal cars, 12
baggage, mail, and express cars, 1 pay car, 556 box cars, 199
stock cars, 315 platform and gondola cars, 65 ditching cars, 42
conductor's cars.
At the close of the year 1889 we find that the rolling stock

98 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
has increased in proportion to everything else, and that not
withstanding this addition the transportation department is
taxed to its utmost capacity to accommodate and move the
heavily increased traffic of the road. The number at the end
of 1889 was as follows : 195 locomotives, 87 passenger cars,
7,880 freight, caboose, and other cars.
A further comparison of the earnings of the company will
show that its financial status has kept apace with its rapid
growth in every way. These earnings have been generall}7 ap
propriated as far as possible to the improvement of the road
and adding rolling stock for transportation facilities. The fol
lowing amounts for 1881 and 1889 gives us an idea of the great
pecuniary advance made within that time :
1881. 1889.
Gross earnings  $2,267,288 62 $5,597,124 58
Net "  1,104,055 87 2,113,772 17
We cannot deny that this company in every way has more
than doubled its carrying capacity and intrinsic pecuniary
value. When we think of the amount of material necessary
for constructing these extensions, the number of mechanics
and laborers necessary to perform the work, the emigration
brought in by reason of this work, we cannot withhold the
credit it is justly entitled to, nor fail to express our admiration
at its policy, which has been one of the causes of the rapid
development of Southwest Virginia.

. CHAPTER VI.
Norfolk and Western Railroad Company continued— Policy of the company —
Its equipment, service, and regulations — Its adjuncts (the Roanoke Ma
chine Works, the Virginia Company, and real estate operations of the
latter) — Speculations of the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company
through the Virginia Company— Statutory regulations regarding railroads
holding real estate— Commissioner of Railways of the State of Virginia
the proper governing authority in these cases — General remarks on this
company as a railroad corporation.
THE general policy of the Norfolk and Western Railroad
Company is an aggressive one in every way, which tends
to develop the country through which it runs, as well as its
own property and holdings. Whether the modes adopted by it
to accomplish this end are entirely legitimate do not in the least
alter the fact that the prime object of the company is to de
velop everything coming in contact with it, in order that such
a course may eventually redound to an increased rate of traffic
for the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company. This cor
poration uses every means in its power to draw a foreign ele
ment into the State, and along its lines has every inducement
which can possibly attract, from a good hotel to women in the
reception rooms at the stations, to render its passengers as com
fortable as possible. No amount of money has been spared to
insure the traveller not only a safe but as pleasant a passage as
possible over its line. The road itself, with all the wonderful
resources of the country through which it runs, are annually set
forth and duly advertised by the company, which are the means
of many settlers coming in and being attracted here. Their
method not only builds up a community, but pays them hand
somely for the outlay expended in placing these many advan
tages before the public.
The equipment, services, and regulations of the company
are not only first-class in every respect, but far ahead of those

100 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
of any other railway system that we know of in the South.
The track is not only well ballasted and laid with the best steel
rails, but a double track is now in construction along the line
wherever it is necessary for the safety of the passengers and
the expeditious handling of freight and minerals. The rolling
stock, while greatly taxed, is amply sufficient to serve the traf
fic, and consists of elegant, comfortable, and pleasant passenger
coaches, stout, safe freight, cars and coal gondolas. The heavy
ten-wheel locomotives carry along over the mountains a train
of nine and ten coaches on schedule time, and give an ease and
steadiness to the whole train which is far superior to the
motion of the cars when drawn by lighter engines. The sta
tions along the line are being replaced by much more commo
dious buildings, some of whieh are really ornaments to the
places where they are built, besides affording passengers every
reasonable facility for pleasure and comfort. All of the through
trains carry the Pullman vestibule and sleeping cars, the com
fort and luxury of which are well known and appreciated by
the travelling public in general.
This road is under control of a splendid class of officials, from
the president to the brakemen. Seek as diligently as you may
and each position will be found occupied by some man who has
the necessary acquirements and knowledge to fill it as it should
be. The president, vice-president, general manager, as well as
engineers, conductors, and guards, have each their, prescribed
territory, and in these respective departments every one carries
out, without fear or favor, his various duties and the rules and
regulations of the company. Whoever you may be, unless you
are in the employment of the company the guard will promptly
march you in from a platform while the train is in motion.
The conductors do not lounge in the seats nor smoke cigars
with the passengers, but walk their beats along the aisle and
see that the travellers have all they want, and carry out the
rules of the company. No passenger is ever allowed to ride
upon an engine, and every rule is required to be strictly carried
out under pain of dismissal, for the safety and comfort of the

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 101
passenger traffic is the first consideration of the company. In
the mining regions around Bluefield, Bramwell, Pocahontas,
and Elkhorn, where the population is necessarily rough, a well-
disciplined police force is on hand to protect the most unpro
tected traveller, not only from any possible outbreak of vio
lence, but drunkenness, profanity, and loud talking — the usual
concomitants of the inhabitants of a new and almost uncivilized
country. The regulations of the company are made in the broadest
and most prudent manner possible. Printed rules are fur
nished every employee, and he is required to conform to them
in every way, and never deviate from them unless special
orders to the contrary are given, or circumstances unforeseen
arise which on account of safety to the travelling public de
mand a departure. These rules smack greatly of a kind of
military discipline, which is really essential to the good gov
ernment and well-being of any set of men who have certain
orders to carry out in order to attain a given end. In view of
'the large amount of traffic over the road the regulations which
govern the transportation department are not only well planned,
but executed with marked ability, for considering the number
of trains which go over the road the loss of life by accident is
extremely small and the number of wrecks few. Sometimes
employees are killed and wounded, but no one has a right to
exclaim at that, unless gross negligence is shown, because inci
dent with the employment are the risks which the law says
every man must assume who goes into the employment of the
company. Taking out the " Thaxton Switch " disaster, occur
ring in the early part of 1890, we know of no other wreck in
which a passenger has been injured, except by the direct cause
of Providence, over which this company can exercise no au
thority whatever. In all its government the Norfolk and
Western Railroad Company is run on a mathematical scale
which causes every department to be properly filled beyond
even a reasonable certainty.
The Norfolk and Western Railroad Company has two ad-

102 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
juncts — the Roanoke Machine Works and the Virginia Com
pany — in both of which the railroad owns a large controlling
interest. They have played no unimportant part in the pro
gress of the railroad company.
Prior to the year 1882, a company was formed for the
purpose of constructing and erecting engine and car-shops.
The capital stock of this company was $365,000, and the
Legislature of Virginia, by act approved April 1, 1882,.author-
ized the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company to own as
many shares in said company as the directors of the railroad
company should deem proper. This authority was most prop
erly conferred, for it was but natural that the company should
have a controlling interest in the works which constructed its
engines and cars and repaired its rolling stock. These shops
were placed in the corporate limits of Roanoke, and the neces-
i sary buildings took at least fifteen acres of ground. The
buildings consisted towards the end of Ihe year 1883 of —

Smith-shop ...  -
Machine-shop . . : ....
Annex to same .... * .
Engine-erecting shop 
Foundry . . . .
Paint-shop . . ...
Planing-mill . . .
Lumber kiln . . ....
Store-house ... ... ...
Engine-house 
Passenger and freight car erecting shop (semi-circle)
Lumber-yards.

350'x72' 348/x72/ 33/x72/
516-,x64'
252-,x72' 206/x50/
252'x72-/ 7Lx38'
150'x72' 22 stalls.
21 "'

Before the construction of these shops reached completion,
in 1883 a mortgage of $500,000 was created and the bonds
purchased by the railroad company, which soon owned a con
trolling share, and at this time they belong virtually to the
company. These gigantic works compare favorably with any
in the Northern States and surpass anything in the South, and
since their erection not only have they done all the repair work
for the Norfolk and Western and Shenandoah Valley railroads,
but much new equipment work. Many of the engines which
pull the heavily-loaded coal trains from the mines to Lambert's

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 103
"Point were made in these shops, while all the box cars, gon
dolas, and some baggage and passenger cars, have been con
structed here. All the most approved machinery for manufac
turing an engine is placed in them, from the heavy planing
and slotting machines to the rivets which go in the boilers.
The capacity of the shops are some four engines per month and
twenty freight cars per diem, besides repairing and building pas
senger cars. At one time these shops filled orders for other rail
way lines, but owing to the increase of traffic on the Norfolk
and Western railroad line of late, its utmost capacity has been
taxed to construct new equipments an-d do the repair work of
this latter company. The construction of the works was in a
thorough manner — brick buildings and iron truss roofing be
ing used — and the ground and buildings at night are lighted
by electricity. The locating and building of this gigantic
plant was a wise act on the part of this company, for the very
material from which our northern friends manufacture their
avork comes from a section of country tributary to the lines of
the Norfolk and Western railroad; consequently the cost of
manufacturing here is so much less that the company was more
than justified in this erection. The number of employees are
about fifteen hundred men, and the works have played no
small part in the development of this section, as will be seen
when we come to discuss the city of Roanoke. The organiza
tion has not only been a self-supporting one, but paid a hand
some dividend on its stock. For the year 1887 it paid $61,305
on the capital stock, while in 1888 it rendered a dividend of
$50,088 to the stockholders of the company, and in 1889 $25,-
044 were declared in dividends.
Another adjunct of the Norfolk and Western Railroad Com
pany, which has become a part of the latter, is the "Virginia
Company." This company was originally known as " The
Iron-Belt Land, Mining, and Development Company," which
was chartered prior to the year 1883. At what particular
time the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company began to be
an investor in this company is not known exactly to us, but

104 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
in its third annual report, on page 29, we find the follow
ing: /" Your company [the Norfolk and Western railroad] owns a controlling
interest in the Iron-Belt Land, Mining, and Development Company, holding
three hundred and thirty shares out of a total of five hundred shares. Under
the charter of the Iron-Belt Land, Mining, and Development Company, real
estate is held at Roanoke, Central, Martins, and at other points. The real
estate is either at junction points, or at localities which from the nature of
the ground and abundance of water are suitable for manufacturing purposes.
The lands were purchased in the interest of your company, so that parties
desiring to erect furnaces or other manufacturing establishments could secure
proper locations at reasonable cost."
Why these lands were purchased in the interest of the com
pany is not stated in this report, but in their fourth annual
report, for the year 1884, on page 24, the reasons for investing
in this company are given. It reads :
" For reasons similar to those which led to the organization of the Norfolk
Terminal Company, your company acquired control of the Iron-Belt Land,
Mining, and Development Company. The cost to your company of its inter
est in this corporation is $43,955.07, which amount represents the actual cost
of the real estate purchased at junctional and other points. It was apparent
that additional yard room and# sidings would ultimately be required at these
points in order to accommodate the growing business of your company, and
it was considered expedient to secure the lands before they could be built
upon or occupied for other purposes. Such land as may not be required
for the uses of your company will be disposed of to parties desiring to
locate manufacturing establishments."
It seems from this that the actual cost of real estate to the
railroad company through this Iron-Belt Land, Mining, and
Development Company was $43,955.07. The object of the
company iu obtaining this real estate was for additional yard
room, sidings, divisional round-houses, and certain necessary
accommodations for the rolling stock of the company. This
was but right, and a praiseworthy, legitimate undertaking. But
why should the railroad company desire to purchase more real
estate than was necessary for its own use ? Some calculation
could have been readily made by which the requisite quantity
for shops, sidings; yard room, and round-houses could have

V

\

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 105
been arrived at, and purchased. Their reason for so doing is
very clearly stated in the eighth annual report. Prior to 1889,
by act ofthe General Assembly of Virginia, on March 5, 1888,
the Iron-Belt Land, Mining, and Development Company was
changed to the "Virginia Company," under which name the
bujdng and selling of real estate by the Norfolk and Western
Railroad Company is still continued. In the eighth annual
report, for the year 1888, we find the following statement con
cerning this "Virginia Company" on page 22:
" For several years the title to valuable real estate at junctional and other
points upon your line has been vested in the Virginia Company. Owing to
the redivision of its line during 1888, it became necessary for your company
to construct yards, engine-houses, repair shops, store-houses, and other
improvements at various points, and it was deemed advisable, when acquir
ing the real estate actually needed, to purchase such outlying and adjoining
land as would be made valuable by the improvements, so that your company
might derive the benefit. The land required for the purposes of the railroad
was paid for and deeded directly to your company, and the adjoining lands
were acquired and paid for by the Virginia Company. The properties so
acquired at Crewe and Bluefield were laid off into lots, of which a considera
ble number were sold during the year ; upon other lots dwelling-houses
were erected and sold or rented to the employees of your railroad company.
* * * * x To provide means for the expenditures required,
the capital stock of the Virginia Company was increased to $100,000, all of
which was taken by your company, and such further sums as were required
were advanced by your company. The balance-sheet attached to this report
shows the acreage and cost of real estate and improvements at the several
points. The net profits of the Virginia Company during the year (1888)
amounted to $44,156.32, out of which a dividend of six per cent, was paid,
and the balance, $38,156.32, was carried forward as a surplus. Your invest
ment in this company promises to be very remunerative."
The avowed object of the Norfolk and Western Railroad
Company in purchasing more land than was necessary for the
actual use ofthe railroad was for the purpose of speculating in
real estate. There is no other reasonable construction when
their own report, from which we have just quoted, says :
"and it was deemed advisable, when acquiring the real estate actually
needed, to purchase such outlying and adjoining land as would be made val
uable by the improvements, so that your company might derive the benefit."

108 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
Why did the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company only
purchase and pay for just such a quantity as the railroad needed ?
AVhy should the balance have been purchased by this Virginia
Company, and yet the profits derived go to the Norfolk and
Western Railroad Company? That the railroad company in
vested its money in the Virginia Company for speculative pur
poses is forever settled by the latter sentence of the statement
just quoted, which reads :
" Your investment in this company promises to be very remunerative."
And the financial report^ on page 62 of the eighth aunual
report, reads as to the liabilities of the Virginia Company :
"Norfolk and Western Company, $140,808.71."
If the railroad then advanced this Virginia Company the ne
cessary funds upon which to speculate, and participated in the
profits arising therefrom, then it is virtually the railroad com
pany speculating under a nom de plume. It is the Norfolk
and Western purchasing this land about, with as sure an eye to
profit by speculation as to obtaining the requisite amount of
ground for its divisional points, shops, round-houses, and yard
room. But why should the railroad company only purchase
and have deeded in its name a certain portion of the real es
tate — so much as they may deem necessary for the use of the
railroad company ? Why not have it all conveyed to the rail
road company, instead of a portion to the Virginia Company ?
To these questions, so far as we can see, the Norfolk and
Western Railroad Company answers : because under the
statute no railroad company can own and hold over a certain
quantity of real estate. If more than that is purchased, then it
must be in the name of another company. No other reply can
suggest itself to us after reading the statement in their own
annual report already quoted. And this solution becomes
almost a certainty when we turn to section 1073 of the Code
of Virginia, 1877. There it is expressly provided that no rail
road company shall own more than forty acres for its principal
shops, yard, &c, in any one parcel. It is usually conceded that

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 107
the statute was passed for the purpose of preventing corporations
from speculating in real estate — especially railroad companies.
Then, if such is the intention of the law, the use of money by
the railroad company under another name for the purpose of
profiting by speculation is a clear invasion of the law, besides
being a direct evasion of the statute.
Whether or not such operations on the part of the railroad
company are intentionally an evasion depends much upon the
terms of their charter. If the Legislature gave them the power
to own stock in this company for the purpose of purchasing
real estate with which to speculate, then they are clearly right
to pursue such a course; but it is scarcely reasonable to suppose
that an intelligent body of men would confer by special act a
power upon one corporation which by a general act is denied
all others throughout the State engaged in constructing and
operating railway lines. If, on the other hand, power was
given the railroad to purchase through this company lands for
its use alone, and under this property was bought which was
more than the cbmpany needed, then that corporation is clearly
wrong to proceed, under and by virtue of such power, to specu
lating in real estate. By their own reports the company shows
that at several points large quantities of real estate were pur
chased and lots laid off and sold, besides houses constructed for
renting purposes. In the eighth annual report, page 62, the
following real estate is mentioned as belonging to the Virginia
Company, which the Norfolk and Western owns through hav
ing purchased all of its stock. We name the real estate at
those points only which exceeds the statutory allowance :

Real estate at Oakvale — 43 acres .
'  Norton— 1,810 acres ,
" " Bluefield— 242 acres
" " " Crewe— 334 acres .
" " " Ivor — 64 acres . .
Houses at Crewe — 46 ...
" Blue-field— 29 

$ 3,595 47
41,922 42
24,355 31
17,719 97
5 09
47,055 63
34,883 72

In addition to this, the company owns splendid inns at Rad
ford, Pulaski City, and Roanoke, all of which comprise a part
of this Virginia Company. All of these well-known hostelries

108 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
are admirably kept, and made as luxurious and comfortable as
possible, and is another evidence of the energy and progress
of this railroad company. The hotels have much to do .with
the pleasure and attractiveness of the towns in which they are
located, adding to the beauty as well as comfort of the same.
For such purposes, as well as for the erection of the necessary
yard room, sidings, shops, and round-houses, we unhesitatingly
think the railroad company had a right to own the requisite .
real estate, and the statute made provision for such ; but the
buying and selling of lots and construction of houses apart
from the purposes named seems to be an invasion of the law,
whether intentional or not, on the part of the company. But
at all events, the people of Virginia have a railroad commis
sioner to govern and to look into such matters, and if he sanc
tions it without complaint, and makes no objection to the
•company's indulging in such operations, then the people can
scarcely blame the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company,
but should look to him to whom full power and authority has
been delegated to see that all provisions respecting railways
throughout the State are properly carried out. So long as he
does not complain, it is fair to presume that the spirit, as well
as the letter, of the law is carried out, until the contrary is
shown by some means or other.
Throughout the southwest of Virginia the Norfolk and
Western Railroad Company wields a potent influence in every
way. Everything connected with it commands a respect which
it is hard to estimate or describe. Each movement of the com
pany is anxiously watched by the people at the various places
along the line, in order to have something done for the town or
city which is their residence, fully recognizing that it is within
the power of the railroad to give any place either a tremendous
impetus forward or a fearful stroke backward. The policy of
this corporation is of such a progressive nature that every sec
tion of the country hails its advent with delight, feeling sure
that if it comes there will certainly be rapid strides made iu a
material way, and for this reason people bear much from this-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 109'
company cheerfully which ordinarily they would never submit
to from other companies. And it is but right, that it should be
so, for where much good comes from any undertaking to the
people at large the objectionable features can easily be sub
mitted to on that account. It is rare, indeed, that the best of
human undertakings for mankind have not something con
nected with them which is subject to adverse criticism, and the
Norfolk and Western railroad is not exempt in this respect ;
yet, so great has been the material development of Southwest
Virginia through its policy and influence that the people of
Virginia should accede to any request made by the company
that is within reason and not a violation of the laws of the
land.

CHAPTER VII.
The joint-stock land improvement companies — Their origin, formation, and
mode of government— Their effect upon Southwest Virginia — These
companies the means of manufactures and enterprises being brought
in — The general results of their efforts — Speculation in connection with
them — Its effects — Various opinions concerning the same — Lieutenant-
Governor Tyler, James S. Simmons, L. L. Powell, L. S. Calfee, A. M.
Bowman, E. S. Stuart, J. Lawrence Radford.
WHATEVER may be the individual opinion of any one
on the subject which we now have in hand, a careful
investigation of the facts iu connection with it, and
salient points upon the operations of joint-stock land compa
nies, show that they have been one of the strongest auxiliary
causes of the rapid development of Southwest Virginia. So
important a part have they played among the causes which we
are seeking to investigate, that some information concerning
their origin and formation, with a slight history of the first
ones in Southwest Virginia, is not amiss.
Generally, any five or more citizens who desire to form one
of these companies apply to the circuit court of the county iu
which they reside, or hustings court of the city, to be incorpo
rated as a body politic, with all the rights, powers, franchises,
duties, and obligations of such bodies conferred upon them.
In this application the amount of capital stock to be issued by
the company, with its minimum and maximum limits in that
respect, are set forth, as well as the amount of each share speci
fied. The names of the incorporators, place of business, and
officers of the company are given also. When the court ap
proves this application and gives them the powers prayed for,
that is termed the charter, which, upou recordation in the office
of the Secretary of the Commonwealth," gives them the re
quisite authority to proceed at once to business.
Upon their first meeting so many shares of stock are issued,

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. Ill
and after that is taken there is a meeting of the stockholders,
when by-laws are passed, and generally an election of presi
dent, vice-president, secretary, and a board of directors — the lat
ter of whom govern the affairs of the company. As the board
and stockholders may direct, a certain quantity of real estate is
bought, and the necessary assessments made upon the stock
holders to pay the cash payment upon this, and to have it sur
veyed off in lots of proper sizes, which, after being properly
improved, are placed upon the markets and sold, either by
way of public auction or privately, as the company desires.
The proceeds from the sale of these lots are put in the treasury,
and after payment of the necessary expenses the profits are
divided among the stockholders in proportion to the amount
of stock held by each shareholder. This stock, from the time
it is issued until it is redeemed, has always a value upon the
market generally governed by the confidence the public has in
the company and the approximate value of the dividends it is
likely to pay. From the formation of the first land company
in Southwest Virginia to the present time many fortunes have
been made by a participation in the profits of these companies,
as well as buying and selling the stock, but not a single man
has ever lost one dollar as yet from investing in the stock, that
we can find out after a most diligent inquiry.
As an evidential fact of the marvellous success of these or
ganizations we mention the transactions and pecuniary workings
of one of the oldest companies, which is still in active opera
tion — the " Home Building and Conveyancing Company,"
which was formed in the primitive days of land companies,
and the parent of many in existence now. The capital stock
of this company at the date of its organization was $5,000.
The investments and operations of the concern were on the
soundest basis, and so successful that the capital stock paid up
to-day is $200,000 and net assets at least $500,000. This concern
may justly claim to be the mother of almost all the investment
^companies in and about the city of Roanoke, which have done
so much towards building up her material interests. The

112 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
West End Land Company, the Belmont and the River View
Land and Manufacturing Companies, owe their origin to this
Home Building and Conveyancing Company. The Iron-
Belt Land, Mining, and Development Company of Virginia
(known now as the " Virginia Company ") was among the
earlier companies in the Southwest, and has been of vast
assistance in developing the country at Bluefield, Radford,
Pulaski City, Crewe, Norton, and other points. This com
pany is now owned and controlled by the Norfolk and Western
Railroad Company, of which we have already spoken in a
former chapter. Nor should we omit to mention the Roanoke
Land and Improvement Company, one of the oldest, and said
to have been the cause ofthe Roanoke Machine. Works being
located in Southwest Virginia," and gave an impetus to busi
ness which has never been forgotten to this day, although the
organization is virtually wound up. From the earlier days
on the land companies have multiplied and increased until
their number is very large and the influence they wield im
mense. :
The effect of these organizations on Southwest Virginia is
simply marvellous. No one expects any undertaking inaugu
rated by man to be perfect, and all readily acknowledge that
everything good has its accompanying evil, so it is that some
objectionable features have necessarily come in; but the results
accomplished by them in materially advancing the growth of the
country counterbalance and overwhelm any evil ones. In
the very first instance, their corporate and joint existence gives
them a power to carry out their objects and aims which an
individual could never succeed in carrying out from his
want of the proper amount of capital and concert of action.
By these organizations men become bound together not only
in unity of plan and action, but what is much more to the
point, unity of pecuniary interest. Each shareholder is deeply
involved in the ultimate result ofthe undertakings and there
fore advances the whole with all his power and ability. He
cannot injure his fellow-man's prospects and interest without

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 113
\
attacking his own, so the whole is moved forward. The ap
pointment of a board to act, with capable assistants to advise,
in the shape of a board of directors, and unlimited capital to
draw upon, gives the company the means of seizing any oppor
tunity which presents itself and would be most likely to
enhance their pecuniary interests. As every one is more or
less bound up, every known lever is brought to bear to increase
the value of their joint interest.
As an increased value of the property which they possess in
common is the main object of these organizations, every legiti
mate means is seized to enhance it. Manufacturing enter
prises, with their train of merchants, mechanics, artizans, and
laborers, are invited, sought out, and induced to come and
locate on their property. Free sites, donations of lots, and
subscription by the company to these industries are some
among the many inducements held out by them in the effort
they make to increase the value of their property. Each and
every advantage of their particular locality in the way of agri
cultural and mineral resources, climate, scenery, and popula
tion are thoroughly advertised and placed before the people.
The result is, foreign capital — manufacturing interests — seek
investments within the limits of their possessions and build up
a community almost as if by one magic stroke. Roanoke,
Salem, Radford, Pulaski City, Max Meadows, Wytheville, all
owe their prosperity and material progress to the untiring
efforts of these joint-stock concerns, which have brought in
enterprises and industries that would never have sought their
borders but for the inducements of the land companies.
Let us take an illustration of this fact : Since April, 1890,
Salem, Virginia, has doubled her population, and from being a
lovely residential seat of learning, has become a rushing, thriv
ing, business place, with manufacturing plants, stores, and
hotels all around. The investigation of the cause of this leads
to but one conclusion as to why it grew so rapidly : the united
efforts and boundless enterprise ofthe development companies
there, headed and managed by men like D. B. Strouse, A. M.

114 ¦ SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
Bowman, Mr. Allemong, Mr. Allen, and several others. It
any manufacturing establishment wanted a location in which
to pursue its vocation, Salem offered almost irresistible induce
ments in the way of free donation of sites, and subscribed capi
tal to the undertaking.
The number of enterprises and foreign capital which they \
have drawn into Southwest Virginia in the last two years is
almost incredible. Many Northern, Eastern, and Western
capitalists are interested in the stock of these companies, and
induce and persuade many of their friends to either build new
manufacturing enterprises or remove their old, ones here.
They, too, tell of Southwest Virginia's resources in minerals, ,
and the many opportunities held out through her wealth for
men to better themselves pecuniarily, as well as the temptation
to locate in a land with such glorious climate, scenery, soil, and
productions. Most of the working capital now in our country
is that of people who either dwell out of it, or of those who have
emigrated here and cast their fortunes among us. There is
scarcely a development company that we know of that does not
have a journal, periodical, or publication of some sort, setting
forth the many advantages ofthe country, city, or town in which
it is located.
The general result of all these efforts is for the good of the
country at large. But for these there are many manufacturing
industries that would not be in existence, and many a town never
thought of. Individuals could never have accomplished the
same and given the whole country such an impetus in a busi
ness way as to cause the whole land to seem on a boom, and in
many .cases a manufacturing place to come into existence as
if through the fairy power of some genii. Yet here they are
living realities and monuments to what the combined force
of energy and capital can do.
One of the necessary results of actions of these joint-stock
companies in opening up and developing the country is specula
tion, which is sure to follow. Speculation is nothing but a
fictitious value placed upon properties which are being gene-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 115
rally bought and sold; and whether the values of properties
come in that class or not depends not upon the rapid advance
in price, but whether there are resources and causes of devel
opment enough in a country to support more than its present
population. If the inhabitants of any community absorb all
the profits from the agricultural, commercial, and manufactur
ing interests that it is capable of supporting, then of course
any rapid advance in property at values not truly supported
would cause untold pecuniary trouble. But property may ad
vance rapidly in price, and on that account seem to be reaching
a purely fictitious basis ; yet, if the full commercial, agricultural,
and manufacturing resources are not developed, then there
is no such thing as a fictitious value of property, although its
price may double many times in a week. There have been
many predictions in the past six years about the great crash that
was sure to come, and some persons were disposed to regard
the rapid advancements going on as indicative of a " South
Sea Island scheme " ; but those people have looked only at the
buying and selling of property, without investigating carefully
the wonderful resources of Southwest Virginia and its agricul
tural and manufacturing powers. These latter have kept apace,
and in a great measure by these development companies,
who, though apparently engaged in selling lots, yet have never
lost an opportnnity to locate an enterprise wherein and when
ever they could. In this they had but little trouble, especially
in iron and wood, because manufacturers who can be con
vinced that the raw material is in a country in great quan
tities, and that it can be worked there cheaper than any
where else, are sure to invest their capital. And until the
population of any country is sufficient to consume all those
resources fully developed, which we have named, there can be
no fictitious value of property ; because as long as there is a sup
ply people will come to demand it, and as long as they come
and are obliged to have property, then, however much it may
advance in price, there can only be real values attached to it.
Any one who is at all familiar with -either the agricultural

116 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
or mineral resources of Southwest Virginia knows full well
that the former is only partly developed, while the latter is but
in its infancy, and that the manufacturing industries are at
present far ahead of the needs of the present population, to
say nothing of those whom the abundance of raw material is
sure to draw here. The buying and selling of real estate in
Southwest Virginia has been, and is to-day, as safe as dealing
in sugar and coffee, and the proof is, not one individual has
ever lost a dollar at it yet.
The desire in the greater portion of humanity to grow rich
as quickly as possible is as inherent in the people of Southwest
Virginia as in any other that we know of. And on this
account, while there may be no fictitious value upon the prop
erties, yet there may be too much buying and selling of real
estate to the exclusion of other trades and callings. Men ordi
narily cannot pursue but one line of business successfully at
the same time, and the danger in this country is not any great
financial or real estate collapse, but the pecuniary failure of an
individual now and then, who, being engaged in other pur
suits, draws out his money from that business to engage in
speculation, and not be able to meet his business obligations.
This is the danger. Not only is too much capital withdrawn
from what are known as legitimate pursuits, but the latter are
totally deserted, and have to be rebuilt again when entered
into. Individuals may be hurt financially after awhile from
the cause stated, but there will be many a year yet before prop
erty in this section reaches its maximum figures, because the
resources have yet to be fully developed. Everything in this
life has a great tendency to settle itself in its proper channels,
based upon supply and demand, and there can be but little
doubt of the fact that this business which people occasionally
exclaim at will settle itself upon a proper basis if there are ficti
tious values placed upon the property.
But regarding this subject no one opinion should be ad
vanced, so we here give the views of some of the most promi
nent gentlemen in Southwest Virginia on the score of advance

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 117
in the values of real estate. Lieutenant-Governor J. Hoge
Tyler, president of the Radford Development Company, said,
when questioned upon this subject :
" I regard Southwest Virginia as one of the most favorable sections in the'
South. It is the direct line from East to West, and a route from Norfolk to
San Francisco can be made via Lynchburg, Radford, Louisville, St. Louis,
Kansas City, one hundred and forty miles shorter than by the route running
from New York to the western slope. The causes ofthe rapid development
of this section are its superb agricultural and mining resources, combined
with the developing policy of the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company.
So far from thinking that there are fictitious values 'upon property in this
country, owing to the resources I have just named, I am of the opinion that
property will advance for years to come."
Mr. James S. Simmons, who was vice-president of the Home
Building and Conveyancing Company, and who has been for a
number of years connected with real estate in almost every
way — a member of the leading real estate firm in Southwest
Virginia — says :
"The development companies have been one of the principal causes of the
onward march towards prosperity. Real estate for years has steadily in
creased in value, and will continue to do so until the many resources of the
country are fully opened up. Property is very low in Southwest Virginia,
when we consider the amount of wealth which lies around, and it must in
crease in value as that is brought out."
Mr. L. L. Powell, a son of the accomplished and learned D.
Lee Powell, of Richmond, Virginia, and who is the senior mem
ber of one of the leading real estate firms in Roanoke, made
this statement concerning the matter :
" No one has ever lost one dollar speculating in real estate in this country,
because it has had the best opportunities to thrive. Industries have been
brought in ahead ofthe demands of the country, thereby making an increase
in the value of property all the time. Speculation is on a solid basis, and, in
my judgment, will continue so until the manufacturing interests cease to come
in. As these are just in their infancy, we may readily conclude that property
has not reached any fictitious value. In times gone by, when industries were
not half so many, property was almost as high then as now, and fortunes
were made even more readily than at this time. I think the country has a
golden future before it."

118 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
Mr. L. S. Calfee, of Pulaski City, says :
" The situation of the ores and coking fields almost together gives South
west Virginia an impetus in the way of manufacturing which must make this
section an iron centre. Being in the infancy of this great enterprise, it willbei
years before property in Southwest Virginia will reach its true value."
A. M. Bowman, president of the Salem Development Com
pany, and a partner of George W. Palmer in their great stock
enterprise, gives his views as follows :
" This country has a wonderful future before it. Its vast resources in the
way of minerals, and the low rates at which they can be manufactured, are
certain to cause it to progress for years to come. When those are fully de
veloped and manufactured up, then we can tell something as to what values
the property may go. Being in their infancy now, it must continue to increase
and grow."
Mr. E. S. Stuart, of Roanoke, who has grown up with the
Southwest, and a gentleman who has done as much as any
man in the country for its growth, and the originator and pro
moter of some of the largest developing concerns, says :
"The wonderful deposits of minerals throughout this section, with the
fine lands for agricultural development, gives Southwest Virginia a basis for
both agricultural and manufacturing powers. These are but beginning to
grow, and as they progress property must necessarily continue to increase
in value. I am very sure the values are not fictitious, but on a solid increas-;
ing basis."
Mr. J. Lawrence Radford, son of the late Dr. John B. Rad
ford, a gentleman of varied knowledge and observation, in
speaking upon the subject, says :
"My grandfather, Mr. John McCandless Taylor, in whose judgment all of
us had great confidence, used to speak of the tremendous ore-bearing
country in the Southwest, and took much interest in hunting minerals. He
purchased a great deal of land around, and had unbounded faith in the future
of this country. I think the wonderful development in ores iri this section
and the natural advantage in the way of climate make the future of it great,
and at present, with all the advantages, I am sure property is not only sold at
reasonable prices, but that it will continue to advance in value as the resources
are developed."
Strange as it may seem, an investigation of this whole sec
tion can but lead to the same conclusion which all these gentle-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 119
men from whom we quoted have reached. When we gaze
upon the farming and trucking facilities, with an increasing
home demand for them; the thousands upon thousands of acres
of all kinds of minerals in their native stage, and the cheapness
with which they can be manufactured, we cannot fail to become
convinced that the values upon properties, so far from being fic
titious, have nothing like reached their maximum price.
When we think of the energy and untiring efforts of these
development companies, their inducements to manufacturing
industries, their own capital invested, we cannot withhold our
tribute of praise, nor question the fact that they have played
their parts well in the development of Southwest Virginia.
We will revert to them more minutely in giving an account of
the towns and cities along the lines of the Norfolk and Western
Railroad Company and its tributaries. In the rapid growth of
many of these places they have played an important part, and
no history of these cities can be given which is not more or less
entwined around them.
In the space allotted to us we have discussed as briefly as
possible the causes of the development of Southwest Virginia,
and now turn to our historical sketches of the cities and towns
along the line of the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company
in this section which are the natural results of this wonderful
growth, and which have played no small part themselves in the
progress of this great section of country of which we have been
writing.

CHAPTER VHI.
Lynchburg — Gateway to the Valley of Southwest Virginia — Something of its
earlier history — Gradual growth of the town from ante-bellum days-until
the present — Its commercial and manufacturing interests — Its capital — Its
business progress — Its climate — Its religious privileges, educational
facilities, and social status — General remarks concerning Lynchburg.
/
LYNCHBURG is situated in Campbell county, on the border"
of James river. Although it is not within the borders
""' of Southwest Virginia territorially, yet so great has its in
fluence been in developing the sections of which we are writing
that it is but proper to give some account of it. The Virginia
and Tennessee railroad, which was the first to penetrate the
Southwest, was largely subscribed to and supported by Lynch
burg, which was the eastern terminus of the road at one time.
Lynchburg was largely interested in the James River and
Kanawha canal, which penetrated the Valley of Virginia to
Lexington, and made a handsome subscription to the Virginia
Midland and Lynchburg and Durham railroads, both of which
afford Southwest Virginia northern and southern outlets.
To-day, with its geographical situation and railroad facilities,
Lynchburg occupies the position as gateway to this fertile
valley. This city, set upon hills, is one of the oldest and most inter
esting places in Virginia, and has contributed largely to every
undertaking which it deemed for the benefit of the State.
Like most places over which time has passed its hoary hands,
it is conservative in all things, requiring a certain degree of
confidence in whatever it grasps. As far back as the year
1786 Lynchburg had her auction and private sale of lots, for
in a revised copy of the ordinances published in 1880 of the
city we find this sketch :

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 121
' ' The Legislature of Virginia, in the year 1786, vested in certain trustees
forty-five acres of the land of John Lynch ' lying contiguous to Lynch's
Ferry, ' in the county of Campbell. The village thus laid out was named
' Lynchburg,' after the owner ofthe soil. The trustees sold this land in half-
acre lots at public auction at first, and subsequently at private sale, for the
benefit of John Lynch. The lots brought an average of ^"50 in the Virginia
currency of that day. The first meeting of this board of trustees was held on
May the 8th, 1 787, at which John Clarke, Jesse Burton, Joseph Stratton, Wil
liam Martin, Micajah Moorman, and Achilles Douglas were present. Richard
Smith was appointed to lay off the town. According to his map the eastern
boundary of the town was Lynch street ; the western, Court street ; the
northern, a line running between Sixth and Seventh streets at right angles to
Lynch and Court streets ; and the southern, a line running between Eleventh
and Twelfth streets parallel to the northern boundary. These trustees met
from time to time between the years 1786 and 1817 for the transaction of
business. They had no control in the town except over the legal titles of the
unsold lots. The money they received for the lots was paid over to John
Lynch." '
The Lynch name has been handed down to posterity as the
founder of a city and "Lynch law." One is as much a credit
to it as the other a disgrace to the annals of any civilized and
respectable community. The city taking its name after this
family grew slowly until the year 1805, when, on the 10th
day of January, it was incorporated as a town, and on the 6th
day of May, 1805, the first corporation court met in the Masons'
Hall, situated on the corner of Ninth and Church streets, which
was for the time the court-house of the place. In 1805, 1813,
1814, 1819, and 1826, the Legislature enlarged the corporate
limits of Lynchburg, and on June 5, 1827, by act of Legisla
ture, three commissioners were appointed — Thomas Dillard,
D. G. Murrell, and Ralph Smith, Jr. — who made a survey and
report, by which the limits of Lynchburg Avere laid off to the
river, extending from the mouth of Blackwater creek, at the
toll-bridge, to the mouth of the Horseford branch, at Hurt's
mill. The plat of this incorporated extension is now extant,
and can be found in the first deed-book in the corporation
court clerk's ofiice. In 1830 the first reservoir was constructed,
and a general gathering of the citizens celebrated that event,
who thought their water supply amply sufficient for any future

122 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
needs, but afterwards found out that another reservoir would
have to be constructed.
But the year 1849 seems to have inaugurated a new era for
Lynchburg. A subscription of $500,000 was made to the Vir
ginia and Tennessee railroad, and a charter was granted the
same. In 1852 the town of Lynchburg, by act of incorporation,
stripped itself of the title town and adopted that of city, having:
over five thousand inhabitants. In 1857 both the Soufhside
and Virginia and Tennessee railroads opened up, and Lynch
burg possessed the fertile grazing section of Southwest Virginia
and the tobacco region of Southside to draw from, besides the
succulent valley of the James, with all its agricultural resources,
reached by the James River and Kanawha canal.
The city improved until the civil war came on, and during
that ordeal Lynchburg was patriotic and true to her trust, and
after it ended the soldiers returned to their home on the James,.
and again Lynchburg began to grow. Nothing daunted by
the reverses met with, this city opened up an enviable tobacco
business and wholesale trade, and in 1871 subscribed $200,000
to the Lynchburg and Danville road, without which subscrip
tion we doubt if that undertaking could ever have succeeded.
Manufacturing industries began to be erected. Tobacco facto
ries, iron works, nail works, and various kinds of other enter
prises sprang up, until the place subscribed $250,000 to the
Lynchburg and Durham railroad, which was completed in
1889, rendering Lynchburg one of the greatest railroad centres
in the South. At this period the city had become a place of
commercial interest, a manufacturing j>oint, and a centre of
about twenty thousand people.
Commercially, this city necessarily occupies the most promi
nent position of any other in this part of Virginia. It lies 204
miles from the sea-coast at Norfolk, and the same distance
from Bristol, the southwestern terminus of the Norfolk and
Western Railroad Company. It is within a short ride of Bal
timore, Philadelphia, New York, and other northern cities,
while the Richmond and Danville and the Lynchburg and Dur-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 123
' ham place it in direct communication south. Through this place
the supplies going east, west, north, and south have to pass, as
well as the vast quantities of mineral ores and manufactured
iron coming from Southwest Virginia. At present, for this
country, it possesses the most direct outlet south, having
equally as supe'rior eastern, western, and northern outlets as
any other city we can think of. On the whole, it has almost
every railroad facility which one could desire, and the result
has been that, commercially, it has reached a prosperity second
to no city in Virginia. The place has a State reputation for
wealth, and as a trading mart its manufacturers and jobbers,
both wholesale and retail, are extending their various channels
all over the South. A New York salesman, in any line of
goods carried by Lynchburg, has no advantage whatever in
quality or price — in consequence of which Lynchburg holds
her own against any market. The result of this commercial
basis is, that many of Lynchburg's citizens are among the lead
ing merchants in Virginia, and a large number have amassed
a competency which they are richly entitled to enjoy.
With good transportation facilities, in the midst of a fine ag
ricultural region, and on the borders of a rich mineral section,
there is but a step from commercial enterprises to manufactur
ing industries. This step Lynchburg has taken, when we turn
to her various manufacturing establishments of tobacco, as well
as other products, now. For a number of years much money
has been made in the place through buying and selling tobacco,
as well as the manufacture of the article itself. Some people
have contended that the city has declined as a tobacco mart,
but an examination into the statistics themselves concerning
this staple of Southside and Eastern Virginia controverts any
such suggestion. We herewith submit a table which gives an
idea as to the immense amount of tobacco handled and manu
factured at this point. The tobacco year ends October 1st, the
time when the old crop is disposed of and the new one placed
upon the market:

124 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
•
Amount sales of leaf tobacco for year ending October 1st,
1885, was  . . . 29,495,758 pounds.
For year ending October 1st, 1886 .... . . 37,462,979 "
" 1887  28,517,670 "
" 1888  . . 24,806,725 "
" 1889  23,769,200 "
And, notwithstanding the drought of last season, the place
has held her own. In this business, concerning tobacco, the
city has twelve manufacturers of tobacco, twenty-four dealers
in leaf tobacco, twelve exporters of tobacco, five warehouses
for the sale of it, commission merchants, manufacturers of
cigarettes, snuff, smoking tobacco, and cigars. This staple, in
passing from the crude leaf into chewing and smoking tobacco,
cigarettes, and snuff, gives employment to many thousand
people, when we enumerate the families all employed who
derive their subsistence from the necessary labor expended in
the manufacture of it.
But the wisdom of Lynchburg has long since taught it that
no place can become a city from dealing in tobacco alone ; so
she has turned her attention towards the manufacture of other
products. The proximity of the place to the ore and coking
fields of Southwest Virginia has naturally led to the establish
ment here of furnaces, iron works, and other metal industries,
which are now in extensive operation, and among which may
be mentioned two blast furnaces, two machine shops, one pipe
works, nail works, merchant bar-mill, two iron foundries, zinc
reduction works, and gas and water main foundry. These
are all busy and prosperous, with every prospect of success,
and are beneficial in every way. Pig-iron of the most ap
proved quality is made here from the ores around, while
the rails, bars, spikes, and iron of other varieties forged are
well thought of and command a ready market. Iron piping
of all kinds and castings for agricultural works are made and
have a good market throughout the country. The means of
supplying, running, and repairing is thus brought within the
reach of all who employ engines and other mechanical machin
ery, either upon railroads, mills, and tobacco factories, or in

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 125
the simpler, but no less essential, operations of the farm. The
zinc works here have proven of great benefit to the city, and
use much material from the southwest of Virginia. The ex
traction of the zinc will be made by the new patented process,
by which the ore is made soluble. By applying a strong elec
tric current the zinc is extracted from this solution, and the-
advantages of this latter over the old methods are marked. In
addition to these manufactures, Lynchburg abounds in many
others, comprising minerals, wood, stone, and clay. The natu
ral consequence of such manufacturing power is that a large
amount of active capital is employed and distributed among
the people.
This city justly has the reputation of being one of the-
wealthiest in the South to its size, and so great is the amount
invested within her borders that an account of it is well worth
mentioning. Its mercantile establishments are upon the sound
est basis; its manufactories have all their capital stock paid in;
its commercial dealings honest and prompt ; its* banking insti
tutions have always the largest kind of deposits, and its private
citizens generally have good incomes. There is a solid, con
servative air of financial soundness which impresses itself upon
even the stranger sojourning within its gates, and the residences
themselves betoken the fact that plenty reigns within their
walls. We give below a table of figures carefully compiled,.
which shows the financial standing of this city up to 1890 :
Value of real estate as assessed  $ 8,154,218 00
Value of personal property as assessed  2,198,311 00
Value of property on which license is paid . . . . 2,232,500 00
Amount invested in land companies  2,675,000 00
Amount on deposit in banks  2,714,428 72
Amount value personal property in surplus of assess
ment  732,770 00
Amount value real estate in surplus of assessment . . 1,630,843 60
Total capital invested, with value of property . . $20,338,072 32
Considering the number of inhabitants, the foregoing esti
mates will give some idea of the wealth of the place, which
is claimed by some very prudent persons as even less than the-

126 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
real values. With this amount of capital at its disposal, Lynch
burg has not made the rapid strides which it ought, nor fully
imbibed that spirit of progress exhibited by many of its sister
towns in the Southwest. The reason of this may be attributed
to two sources. First, the manufacture of tobacco has been
for many years the chief industry, and a great deal of capital
bound up in that; and many having made fortunes by it, others
were loth to give it up until the success of other manufacturing
industries convinced them of their error. Again, the manu
facture of iron, zinc, and other products from the raw material of
ores were new industries to the people of this section, and they
were unwilling to embark in what were uncertain seas con
cerning these, or risk their capital in them. The result was that
for some time Lynchburg held back from investing in manu
facturing industries of minerals until the test • made by for
eigners coming within its borders allayed its fears, and showed
that the profit was well worth the risk. In addition to the
want of knowledge of these new classes of industries fast devel
oping in the Southwest, some of the largest capitalists of the
city appeared to view all innovations with more or less
suspicion, and carried to a detrimental extent this conservative
spirit, which, in its proper sphere, has such a salutary effect
upon the community. This was to be deplored in this instance,
because the want of that spirit to grasp hold ofthe things held
out because they were new undoubtedly prevented Lynchburg
from advancing with that rapidity which its position and means
would have caused it to do had her citizens not been governed
by that conservative spirit which objects to advances except in
a certain well-known and beaten groove. But for the future
good of the city, it is with pleasure that we are able to say
candidly that the people are laying aside a great deal of that
old spirit of sameness and taking ) hold of the developments
around, and forming joint-stock companies for the material
advancement, of the place. Several development companies,
with ample capital, are taking hold ahd making improvements,
which evidence the fact that Lynchburg will not stand still,

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 127
but press forward. If she does so, with her facilities and the
nucleus she has already for a city, it will be but a short time
before it will increase to a place of considerable size and mag
nitude. At the present time Lynchburg is steadily increasing in a
business way. There is no better evidence of this fact than by
an inquiry into the sale of stamps at the post-office. The sales
for Lynchburg show the following amount :
First quarter  ,  $9,710 12
Second quarter ; . . .  9,570 66
Third quarter . . . . .. 9,647 17
Fourth quarter . .  10,243 42
Total ....  $39,171 37
In proportion and ratio with the increase in the sale of
stamps we find the manufacturing and commercial interests
advancing and other industries coming in. Improvements, too,
are being made in the way of grading streets and building hand
some bridges and public buildings well worth seeing. Par
ticularly in the West End are extensive additions being made,
which will add greatly to the business capacity, as well as the
beauty of the city.
The location of this place, with reference to agricultural re
sources and climate, is unsurpassed. Almost at its door lies the
great granary of the James River Valley, while the rich coun
try bordering Shenandoah river is but a short distance off. The
tobacco region of the Southside, Piedmont, and Eastern Vir
ginia sections all throw this staple into her lap, and the trucking
tide-water country is in direct communication, with its wealth of
vegetables, fish, and oysters. Transportation facilities extend in
every direction into the various sections we have named, giv
ing Lynchburg rare opportunities from which to draw the
comforts as well as the luxuries ©f life. Nor is there a more
salubrious climate anywhere than the one in this place. Sit
uated in the mountains, yet far enough south to possess a balmy.
temperature, it is free from the heat of the latter and the bliz
zards of the north. The nights even in July and August are

128 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
pleasant and agreeable, while the days have a temperature com
paring favorably with any location. The mean temperature,
as shown by the United States Signal Service, which office is
stationed in the city, is as follows for the last five years :
January  37.17° July  75.18°
February  41.17 August  '
March  46.16 September  69.11
April . .56 03 October . . . . 60.17
May  67.17 November . ... 46.14
June . . 75.05 December .... 40.05
Mean temperature for the year, 57.09°
It can be readily seen that such a temperature not only in
sures a pleasant climate in which to dwell, but one perfectly
free from all malarial troubles of every nature whatever.
When .we turn to the religious privileges, educational facili
ties, and the social status of Lynchburg, we cannot speak with
too much praise concerning the place. The moral sentiment
of the community, as well as religious observances, stand pre
eminently forth in a marked degree. Churches of all denomi
nations are here, and are sustained and supported in the best
manner possible, having as pastors the best men and most able
talent. Comparing the number of church members, members
of the Sunday-schools, and the number of those in some way
connected with the religious bodies, with the population as a
whole, Lynchburg occupies a most enviable position. The
number of people, as we have said, in this city is nearly twenty
thousand. The number of church and Sunday-school mem
bers are as follows :
Number white members of churches . ... . . 5,470
" of Sunday-school scholars  . 3,357
" of colored members  . . . 3,500

Tptal connected with church  . . 12,327
More than one-half of the population is An some way con
nected with the churches of Lynchburg, which speaks well for
the tenets of Christianity there. While Lynchburg has no
great number of private schools, still educational facilities are
undoubtedly good, and one of the best public graded schools

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 129
is in existence here that we know of. The curriculum is un
usually good, and languages taught in conjunction with the
highest grade of English. The faculty is composed of highly-
educated persons, and the patronage of the school by the
children of the best people in town shows that it is held in
high repute. The number of scholars in attendance is ex
tremely large, being 3,350, while the teachers number 62 — 8
in the high school, 20 in the grammar, and 34 in the pri
mary department. The course of instruction is high, includ
ing Latin, French, and German. It is but natural to expect
that the parents of these children should compose a state of
society most desirable in every respect, and such is the case.
The social features of Lynchburg have a reputation for gentility
and refinement .which extend beyond its borders, and society
there is delightful. Whether we take the class moving in the
highest circles on account of their money and position, or the
working class of merchants and traders, with their families,
all have their share of refinement. This causes the young
ladies working in stores for a daily subsistence to possess that
class of bearing and manners which would become the rooms
of a cottage or adorn the halls of a palace; and people are to
be deemed peculiarly fortunate when they can combine the
occupation of gaining a livelihood with true culture and grace,
whieh is so necessary for congenial intercourse. Taking this
city as a whole, we know of no place which presents superior
social attractions.
We cannot close this imperfect sketch of Lynchburg without
a remark or two upon the place generally. In many respects
its superiority must be seen taking it as a whole. Some of its
buildings are not only very stately and costly, but ornamental
to the town. The Post-Office, the First Baptist church, the
numerous handsome residences, add greatly to its beauty.
The Law Building, on Main street, in which Kirkpatrick and
Blackford, Thomas N. Williams, John E. Lewis, and other
noted lawyers have their offices, is undoubtedly one of the
handsomest buildings we know of, from the well-appointed

130 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
cafi on the first floor to the rooms upon the seventh. The
mosaic tiling composing the floors and wainscoting is beautiful
in both design and execution.
The complaint that Lynchburg is a city of hills will soon
pass away, for it is destined to grow until the hills will soon
seem lost in the vales it will occupy. Time will as surely
* prove this as it has already shown that forty years ago the
place was but a small town with only four thousand inhabi
tants, while now it is a city with twenty thousand.
The financial condition of the city is upon the healthiest
basis possible, as can be easily shown from the revenue and
expenditures. For the year ending January 31, 1889, the re
ceipts from taxes, licenses, fines, and other sources amounted
to $307,661.55. The disbursements during the same time were
$298,238.96, leaving a balance in the treasury of $9,422.59, ta
be expended as the authorities saw fit for the improvement of
the city. It is not often that cities present such a financial
showing, for often appropriations have to be made to defray
the calls of expense. The mayor and common council are gen
erally composed of the most substantial citizens of the place,
who look after its affairs with that prudence and care which
characterize them in the government of their individual con
cerns. One cause of Lynchburg's good government and peaceful,
moral character is the admirable police for the protection of the
place, under the guidance of Chief Irwin and Sergeants Pendle
ton and Seay. The shocking murders and highway assaults
of various desperate characters so often committed in cities
generally are rarely if ever heard of in Lynchburg. ThiB
staunch police force, composed of sober, upright gentlemen,
gives a tone and dignity to the law ofthe land that awes people
into an obedience and submission which all the brute force in
the world can never do, and has a wonderful efficacy in estab
lishing peace and quiet. At all times in this place, full of bu
siness and energy, there is a peacefulness and security which
larger and more rapidly-growing cities cannot claim. And yet

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 131
it is a kind of blessing which people rarely recognize until they
are placed in rough and disorderly places.
Lynchburg's future, to a certain extent, is necessarily an as
sured one. With her many railroad facilities, her commercial
and manufacturing enterprises, her capital and wealth, the
spirit of development which is fast becoming infectious, with
those at the helm who will take hold and not look back, the
place must continue to go forward until her true position is
fully asserted and it becomes a city, of magnitude and impor
tance.

CHAPTER IX.
Roanoke — Derivation of the word— Big Lick — Its inception — Original owners
of the soil — Its inhabitants — Its sudden progress— Change of name to
Roanoke in 1882 — Roanoke's rapid growth — The causes of it — The Shen
andoah Valley Railroad— The Roanoke Machine Works — Incorporation
of the place as a city in 1884 — Its manufacturing industries, commercial
enterprises, and joint-stock land companies — The peculiar patriotic spirit
of its inhabitants — Their pluck and energy in a material way — The labor
ing population — Strikes— Present number of people — Capital and finan
cial condition of the city — Its churches, schools, and journals— Some
general remarks about the city — Its probable future.
THE name of Roanoke throughout Southwest Virginia is
as synonymous with the term rapid growth as, the region
we have just named is throughout the rest of Virginia.
So quickly has it become a commercial mart and manufactur
ing centre that it is known almost everywhere as the " Magic
City" of Virginia, and some account of its birth and wonderful
progress is fraught with unusual interest. The name of this
city of which we are now writing is not less romantic than
the development of it is marvellous, being derived from the
Indian word Raw-re-noke, or precious money, an appellation
formerly bestowed upon the valley. Almost in the centre of
this valley, in Roanoke county, on Roanoke river, rests the
place which is fast growing to be a city of large dimensions,
and a railroad centre second to none in our State.
The original soil on which this city rests, which was formerly
known as Big Lick, was granted by royal personages to one
Thomas Tosh, an old settler in this county, which at that time
was known as Botetourt. From the original map and grants
now in the possession of Colonel Thomas and Andrew Lewis,
descendants of Mr. Thomas Tosh, we find that in the year 1747,
and thence on until the year 1767, grants were made of some
sixteen hundred acres to Thomas Tosh lying in that section of
country from near Tinker creek to Roanoke river, south of the
city, and across, bordering the lands ofthe Tayloes and others.

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 133
This land included what was known as the Terry place, the
Rorer tract, and what is now called the Carr farm. The land
covering these particular tracts named was granted Thomas
Tosh in 1767 by George III, while the balance was granted
during the years previously named by both George H and IH.
It fell to the heirs of Thomas Tosh, and a portion afterwards
was conveyed by the latter to Ferdinand Rorer, and at the time
of Big Lick's incorporation, in 1874, the land around was pos
sessed by Peyton L. Terry, William Carr, John Trout, S. M.
Fergusson, Mrs. Jane Lewis, Colonel Thomas and Andrew
Lewis, and B. T. Tinsley. The latter owned all that ground
between the Carr property and Franklin street, and sold Peyton
L. Terry his farm, a large part of which the latter disposed of
to the Roanoke Land and Improvement Company when that
was first organized. This particular piece of land was that
owned by William L. Peyton, an old Virginia gentleman as
noted for elegance and refinement as his hospitality.
Prior to the year 1874, a small little village lay in a " Sleepy-
Hollow" kind of way on the Atlantic, Mississippi and Ohio
railroad, containing some three or four hundred people, known
as Big Lick. It derived its support from the rich surrounding
agricultural country and some tobacco trade, and had for its
amusements old-time Virginia customs, entertainments, and
" fish-fries" — the latter of which is so beautifully delineated by
the pen of Mr. George P. Button, the graceful and fluent writer,
of Virginia. In 1874, on the 28th day of February, the town
was incorporated as " Big Lick," with John Trout as mayor,
Ferdinand Rorer, John M. Fergusson, Peyton L. Terry, James
M. Gambill, Dr. James G. McG. Kent, and William Raines as
councilmen. These gentlemen were staunch citizens, and in
every way administered the affairs of this village with care and
prudence, while time rolled on nearer to the day when the
place would suddenly grow into a city. The country sur
rounding this town had been richly blessed with the gifts of
nature, and when formed had the most substantial blessings
poured upon the face of the soil, from which the village drew

134 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
its support. It literally flowed with milk and honey, and no
country in the New South could boast of more prodigal gifts
in a natural way than this lovely valley. The truth is best
stated when we say that for health of climate and diversity of
soil, for lovely mountain scenery on every side, from green foli
age to blue mist, for every kind of agricultural pursuit, from
wheat-growing to sheep-raising, Roanoke can have no superior
and but few equals. It is watered by rivers and mountain
streams, affording abundant water of the best type. From the
year 1874 until the sudden rise in 1880, Big Lick gradually
grew and moved peacefully on, its inhabitants slowly increasing
and following the various pursuits of life, enlivened by inno
cent occasional amusements already noticed, to which may be
added Queens of May and strawberry feasts. A portion of what
was once Big Lick is still in existence north of the city of
Roanoke, and is a rambling, hilly place of two hundred people
or more. Some of the buildings originally composing the town
south ofthe railroad are remaining, although there are but few
left to tell the former existence of Big Lick, so completely are
they absorbed by Roanoke. On Salem avenue two or three of
Samuel Grigg's buildings remain, while on Commerce street
Startzman's house still stands, and the store occupied by Kin-
near was formerly the Farmer's Bank, over whose counters
many a dollar passed from the plethoric pockets of the farmers
around. Some " Old Lick" buildings, as they are called, re
main on Commerce street, between the large brick wholesale
house of P. L. Terry & Co. and Salem avenue, while the old
Trout house is back of the new Ponce De Leon Hotel. Rorer
Park Hotel, old with many memories, was first a mere log
building, and afterwards was added to until it has become a
long, rambling house, looking like a fit residence for bats and
owls. But these relics of this place heretofore existing, now
almost historica], are fast becoming things of the past — forgot
ten in the bustle and rush to found a mighty city. And the
location geographically pf this town was a fortunate one for the
foundation of a place of magnitude. Some of the best counties

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 135
in the State surrounded Big Lick. Botetourt, Franklin, Mont
gomery, Craig, Bedford — all rich in agricultural resources — lay
with hidden trophies for the future city, and even now pay their
tribute to Roanoke. Another feature which was of immense
value to this locality, and has been an important factor among
the original causes of Roanoke's progress, is the fact that the
place was almost the centre of what is known as the " springs
region of Virginia." This point is but seven miles distant
from Coyner and Botetourt Springs, ten miles from the Blue
Ridge, thirteen miles from the Roanoke Red Sulphur Springs,
twenty-five miles from the Craig Healing, thirty-five miles from
the Craig Alum. The Alleghany, Montgomery White, and
the Yellow Sulphur Springs are but an hour's ride, while half a
day's journey by rail will reach many others so familiar to the
travelling public. Nature, so far as it was in her power, smiled
in the most pleasant manner upon the country which was to
support the place about to spring into existence.
During 1881 Big Lick seemed to suddenly cast off' its leth
argy and awake from its quiet repose with the avowed purpose
of astonishing the world. All at once it began to lay off lots,
the sound of the hammer and saw could be heard on all sides,
and on February 3, 1882, the Legislature of Virginia changed
the name of Big Lick to that of Roanoke, enlarging its terri
torial limits. During this year the Roanoke Machine Works
were placed in course of erection, and various other enterprises
began — dwelling-houses, stores, and warehouses ; contractors,
artisans, mechanics, and laborers came in to construct and build
them, while dealers, merchants, and suppliers followed the lat
ter. This year was a memorable one for Roanoke, and will
long be recollected as the beginning of an end which has
not been reached as yet. But notwithstanding what wonders
were performed during that memorable period, the place, to
what it is now, was a mere nothing. Creditable information,
derived from the accomplished architect and engineer, Mr.
Charles Jacobsen, now at Pulaski City, reveals the fact that
Salem avenue was then a marsh, and was filled up later on in

136 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
the fall of 1882 and the winter of 1883. This gentleman, with
other friends, hunted rabbits where Hotel Roanoke now stands,
and picked up genuine Indian arrow-heads. In going from
his room to the office Mr. Jacobsen waded through mud, and
rubber boots were the order of the day. The first house con
structed on Salem avenue, as well as we can gather, was the
grocery stand formerly occupied by Page, and at that time
was the Star saloon. Grant occupied the first store on Salem
avenue, and Rorer Park Hotel was the first boarding-house
known in the city, except the Trent House, kept by John W.
Ryal, and the Neal House was the first hotel proper. The
old-Lutheran church on Bunker Hill was turned into a board
ing-house, and afterwards sold to the Colored Baptist Associa
tion, who are still in possession of it. During this year of
1882 there was a large influx of people; and improvements ad
vanced rapidly. Things continued on a progress until about
April, 1883, when, the machine works being completed and the
, railroad offices built, there was an almost magical growth until
January 1, 1884, when, by act of Legislature, the place Roan
oke shed its youthful name of town and took the full-fledged
title of city. People stood aghast and wondered at the cause.
The intersection of the Shenandoah Valley railroad with the
Norfolk and Western at this point was the reason. Why did
they happen to intersect here ? An answer will assist in eluci
dating the wonderful start of the magic place, as well as its
subsequent growth.
It is asserted that prior to the construction of the Shenan
doah Valley railroad the Chesapeake and Ohio Company made
many promises as to traffic arrangements if the former would
construct its line to Waynesboro Junction and intersect the
latter there. It is further said that the Shenandoah Valley
company did not rely upon these promises, but for other rea
sons pushed the route forward to that point. We are inclined
to think the latter solution is correct, for early in 1881 the
Norfolk and Western was purchased by Clarence H. Clark and
his associates, and at that time it is but reasonable to suppose that

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 137
a route to the Flat Top coal field was the object, for even then
the controlling interest in the coal options were held by Phila
delphia parties — presumably the same who purchased the Nor
folk and Western Railroad Company, since the latter, in its
first annual report for the year 1881, makes this statement on
page 15 :
"The Norfolk and Western Railroad Company has acquired the control
of the various roads in the States of Virginia and West Virginia which, ag
gregated, constitute what is known as the New River Railroad Company."
As Mr. J. D. Sergeant, by his proffered contract to Roane,
showed that he treated this road and these options as his prop
erty, then the Norfolk and Western, which afterwards con
trolled it, must have had an idea of reaching the coal lands by
an extension of the Shenandoah Valley railroad, for a short
time after, the Shenandoah Valley railroad was controlled by
the same parties who governed the Norfolk and Western. At
all events, in April, 1881, the Shenandoah Valley railroad
was completed to Waynesboro Junction, and when the Nor
folk and Western was purchased, in May, 1881, by the Phila
delphia parties, an intersection was determined upon. Roan
oke (or Big Lick then) was the point chosen, and in June,
1882, the Shenandoah Valley railroad was completed to Roan
oke, and a new era dawned for this place as well as Southwest
Virginia. From this on the town seemed to be an assured city
in the future.
The incorporation of the town of Roanoke as a city, in the
year 1884, was an epoch in the history of the place which
marked a forward movement in a material way. The inaugu
ration of a hustings court, under the executive ability of
that cultivated gentleman, accomplished scholar, and eminent
jurist, William Gordon Robertson, had a salutary effect upon
the new city, arid law and order was brought out of chaos as
quickly as possible. A disciplined police force, with municipal
law brought to bear upon the people, assisted in materially
advancing them, as well as the interests of the city.

138 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
In the meanwhile the Crozier iron and steel furnace was
completed, which gave an impetus, too, to the city, and the
Roanoke Land and Improvement Company, pursuing a con
servative policy, assisted in advancing the interest of the town.
But though Roanoke commenced a new era in 1884, that
year was not without some drawbacks, which are still within
the recollection of mauy people here. During this time a fear
ful depression prevailed, and to Mr. S. B. Haupt's superior
management is due the fact that Roanoke weathered the storm.
The prosperity of the place then was mainly dependent upon
the Roanoke Machine Works, and when it was thought that
they would stop work, Mr. Haupt, in conjunction with Mr.
D'Armond, captured the contract for the building of five hun
dred cars for the New York, New Haven and Hartford railroad
at a reduced price, and started the shops with renewed energy
and vigor. Nor was that contract secured without trouble,
because the competition of other works was so great that the
utmost delicacy was required to secure it. This temporary
depression retarded the growth of the city for a short time
only, since during the latter part of 1884 everything con
tinued to progress and move forward. It was during this year
that the city was wrapped in gloom by one of the foulest mur
dere ever recorded. We allude to the killing of Lizzie Wilson,
a bright young lady of some seventeen summers. Everything
was done that* was possible to bring the guilty parties to justice,
but all without any effect. The officers of the law as well as citi
zens united in their efforts to satisfy justice, but the criminal
•escaped, only to meet another and worse fate in all probability.
From 1885 on, Roanoke rapidly increased in every way.
We often see towns spring up and grow as if by the stroke of
some magic wand, but they soon fall into decay and become,
as it were, dead, resulting from the fact that-the necessary in
dustries to support them do not keep apace. On the other
hand, we find places which have gradually grown, and com
mercial and manufacturing enterprises supported them ; but
Roanoke is unique in this : not only has its growth been mar-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 139
vellously rapid, but its commercial and manufacturing indus
tries have kept ahead of the wants of this phenomenal growth.
Following the two large industries we have already named
others came in train — valuable ones, too, such as the Ameri
can Bridge Works, the rolling mills, the Rorer Iron Works,
the Bridgewater Carriage Works, the West-End Furnace,
the Virginia Brewing Company, tobacco factories, planing
mills of every description, and almost every other kind of
manufacture that can be imagined. The necessary result of
these industries was the establishment of a good commercial
basis, which has been of infinite service towards upbuilding
the place. Solid mercantile firms, both wholesale and retail,
opened up to supply not only the wants of the people at home,
but to enlarge the borders of thejr trade into foreign terri
tory. The mercantile interests ofthe people at large through
out the great Southwest, and the mineral counties of Mercer
and McDowell, West Virginia, can testify to the fact that, from
the year 1886 and on, this place has made fearful inroads on
the wholesale trade of other surrounding cities. Her com
mercial interests in this branch compare favorably with even
the more experienced efforts ofthe Northern States. The bank
ing system and institutions are on a first-rate footing, and while
not having the same large deposits which older ones of larger
capital may boast, still they compare well with any that we know
of. In fact, taking the Commercial National Bank, the exist
ence of which is mainly due to the efforts of J. W. Coon, now
president, we scarcely know of an institution which has accom
plished more than this in the same length of time. From Mr.
J. C. Davenport we obtained the following statistical informa
tion : The bank has now a paid-up capital stock of $100,000,
with an undivided profit and surplus of $22,000. It has only
been in existence a few years.
But it is mainly to the joint-stock land companies that Roan
oke is indebted for its rapid development. The Roanoke Land
and Improvement Company, the Home Building and Convey
ancing Company, did wonderful work towards inducing capita

140 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
and labor to locate in the place. These companies may be said
to be the pioneers in the Southwest of all others which have
pursued their course in locating industries and developing the
resources of the country. From these companies in Roanoke
have sprung many others, such as the Virginia Land Company,
the Virginia Development Company, the Creston Land Com
pany, the Belmont Land Company, the Melrose Land Com
pany, the Fairview Company, the Hyde Park Land "Company,
and numerous ones to mention which we have not the space.
These not only brought in outside capital and manufacturing
industries, but stirred up the citizens within. Almost every
one in Roanoke has an interest in one of these companies, and
thus every man is more or less on the order of a land agent,
and through the untiring efforts of all millions of dollars of
capital has been brought in, either by way of public industries
or private enterprises, which have really caused a continual
boom. Numbers of manufacturing concerns owe their exist
ence to these companies, which seem determined to allow
nothing to pass the borders of the Magic City. These have all
been conducted on the very safest financiering policy; for no
stockholder has ever lost by investing in their shares, and per
sons buying their real estate have all turned a handsome fortune
in accordance with the amount invested. Even the Hebrew
race, who generally turn their attention to mercantile pursuits,
finding that money was to be made otherwise, formed a joint-
stock land company known as " The Phcenix Land Company,"
and have done well. By its manufacturing powers, its com
mercial interests* and these joint-stock developing companies,
Roanoke has grown since 1884 from a town of five thousand
inhabitant^ to a city of eighteen thousand people in 1890, and
at present is rapidly increasing in every way and extending its
limits out in all directions. From Roanoke to Vinton is almost
one continual city, while the West End is fast encroaching to
the railroad between this point and Salem. The amount ot
capital invested in the manufacturing enterprises will range
from five thousand to one million dollars, while that of the

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 141
commercial interests goes from one to one hundred and fifty
thousand dollars. The capital invested in the land companies
ranges from ten thousand to one million dollars. It is not hard
to see that with all this capital Roanoke was obliged to advance.
The peculiar patriotic spirit of the inhabitants of this city is
proverbial in every way. To any one dwelling here the mate
rial advancement of the best interests of the place is the first
consideration. If any enterprise is to be founded or industry
started, then no question is asked farther than the fact whether
it is to be located' in Roanoke or not. If it is, then a lib
eral subscription is donated and every impetus given to for
ward the undertaking. This patriotism has been exhibited
from the start — almost in the inception of the place. The
Palace Hotel, erected by S. W. Howerton when Roanoke was
almost hanging in a balance, is one of the instances, for though
small now in proportion to others, at that time it was evidence
of Mr. Howerton's faith in the place, and not a few predicted
that he was going too far. Then it was a spacious structure,
and the patriotism of such men towards the city in those early
days goes far towards showing why Roanoke improved rapidly.
This gentleman has been here from the inception of the place,
and comes from an eminently respectable family in Halifax
county, Virginia, noted for their Episcopalian proclivities. If
our Roanoke friend's cousin, Captain Phil, could rise from the
grave and know that this patriotic son of Roanoke had de
parted from the Episcopal faith and gone into another sect, he
would usurp Mr. S. W. Howerton's place in the justices' court,
sit in judgment upon him in the sternest manner, and wonder at
the change in this " new era." The "Wright Block," on the
corner of Jefferson and Salem avenue, was one of the earliest
substantial buildings in the city, and still bears testimony to
the founder's faith in Roanoke, for it was constructed in those
times when faith in the city meant something. But perhaps
no people deserve more credit for their patriotism in this way
than Messrs. D. C. and W. P. Moomaw, originally citizens of
this county, and descendants of the Moomaw family of Bote-

142 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
tourt. Block after block of handsome brick buildings testify
to their faith in and patriotism to their native heath, and some
were constructed in the earlier days of trial and tribulation.
The material necessary for the construction of these, with the
money paid the artizans who constructed the buildings, forged
strong links in the chain which holds the complete fabric of the
city's progress together. To all such men — and there are many
more coming afterwards — Roanoke is deeply indebted for her
rapid material advancement. The Norfolk and Western Rail
road Company has done all in its power for the development of
the town. The principal office being here, with its hundreds of
employees, who have invested and built their homes, is another
strong link in the chain of Roanoke's prosperity which should
not be omitted. We can all remember a short time back, when
the question was mooted as to the Roanoke and Southern rail
road not running into the place, that just such a subscription as
the road required was promptly made and the right of way
secured into the city for it as demanded. R. H. Woodrum,
Simmons, Grey, Boswell, Powell, Wingfield, Pugh (editor of
the Herald), Nicholson (editor of the World), Brown (editor of
the Times), and many others too numerous to mention, worked
and engineered in every way until the road was secured and a
route into the city an assured fact. Such earnest zeal must
build up any place, and in this the citizens of the town have
made a pathway which the neighboring places may well follow.
And while these men by their untiring efforts have done much
towards advancing the city, they have in no small measure
carved out their own fortunes.
In every new place where the manufacturing interests are
large and the population a cosmopolitan one, the best interests
of the city depend more or less upon the class of labor which
resides there. Whether the city advances or is retarded de
pends very materially upon whether there is a quiet, orderly
set of laborers, or a turbulent, agitating one. In this respect
Roanoke has been particularly fortunate. The place has
treated the mechanical and laboring part of the population

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 143
well, and in return the latter has been peaceful and quiet,
making good, faithful, and efficient citizens. This city has a
peculiar charm for the man who has to earn his bread by the
sweat of his brow, for two reasons : wages are remunerative in
almost every calling on account of the demand for labor, and
the mechanic who earns two dollars a day can sit under his
own vine and fig tree, on account of the instalment plan here.
Houses may be purchased for the sums of $15, $20, and $25
per month — as cheap almost as the rent of a house. East
Roanoke is the dwelling-place of many of these workmen, and
they live in comparative ease, enjoying their own firesides and
many of the comforts, and not a few of the luxuries, of life.
The logical result of all this is, that disturbances and agita
tions have been almost unknown on the part of the laboring
population. In 1884 there was some talk of a large strike, but
owing to the united efforts of Dr. H. A. Sims and James A.
McConnell the calamity was averted, and things flowed on in
their usual channels. Afterwards the men at the rolling mills
went off on a short strike, but the differences they had with
their employers being soon adjusted, they returned to duty.
No place, for the number of workmen, has been freer of this
nature than Roanoke, and it may be reckoned as one of the
causes Of its prosperity.
The present population of Roanoke, after a patient investiga
tion, numbers some 18,742 people, with an increasing tide all
the time. This estimate does not include those visiting, but
the actual residents of the city. The people of the place as
a whole are cosmopolitan in the extreme, and on that account
interesting in the highest degree. They are all busily engaged
in the pursuit of their various occupations, and in this, as in
all new places, are laying the foundation for the development
of the city, which is yet in its infancy. In speaking of the
people of the place it is not amiss to quote from a letter writen
by the Rev. W. C. Campbell, the learned, cultivated, literary
gentleman [who fills the pulpit in the Presbyterian church-
He says :

144 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
"To me Roanoke and its people compose one of the most interesting
places I have ever seen, and certainly the city is unique in the history of
Virginia." All thinking people who stay in Roanoke become convinced
of the same thing, and so express themselves. One peculiarity
concerning it, which is rare, is that the people have less to do
and say concerning their' neighbors' affairs than in any other
place that we know of, and this is attributable to the fact that
the population is extremely cosmopolitan, and the rapid devel
opment and influx of strangers prevent such inquiries. It is a
state of affairs for which the place should congratulate itself.
When we consider the short time in which the " Magic City "
has grown, its financial showing is undoubtedly a good one,
and the rapid increase in values great. The statement which
we now give, with a comparison of former years, will assist in
showing the marvellous advance :
In 1885 the assessable value of real estate was .... $1,481,632 25
In 1890 it was  6,750,884 00
giving an increase of $5,269,251.75 during the period i named.
The values of property upon an equitable basis in Roanoke is
as follows :
Value of real estate, as per assessment  . $6,750,884 00
Value of personal property, as per assessment . . I . 1,715,642 00
Value of capital in business on which license is paid . 1,600,000 00
Amount on deposit in banking institutions . . . ,\ . . 1,671,760 67
Surplus on personal property not given in  571,880 66
Amount surplus on real estate, assessment not given in, 675,088 40
Total value of property in the city of Roanoke . . $12,985,255 73
In the calculations above the greatest* care is taken, and,
whilst there may be some variations, on the whole it is a cor
rect statement of Roanoke's values. Where a place increases
over a million in values every year it is a difficult matter to
arrive at an exact valuation any time you may desire. For ten
years it is a showing of which the people of Roanoke may
well be proud.
When we turn from the manufacturing, commercial, and
financial view of Roanoke to its religious aspect, educational

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 145
facilities, and journalistic features, the place shows a good con
dition in these respects. And our inquiry has been a careful
one along this line, because we do not desire to misrepresent
anything in any way. When an examination is made of any
one of these particulars of which we are writing the facts must
necessarily be gathered from the heads of each department.
From completed statistics we find these facts concerning the
churches :
Number of members of churches ... ... 3,320
Number of members of Sunday-schools  .2,240
Total connected with religious denominations  5,560
This does not include the colored people, who number some
2,740. Almost all the denominations are represented here,
including Roman Catholics, Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Luth
erans, Christians, Methodists, and Baptists. The community
is a liberal one, and the churches — some of which are very
handsome edifices — are always crowded.
Educational facilities in the city are good. In addition to
the high-graded schools there are some excellent private and
public ones. The Alleghany Institute, situated on an eminence
north of the city, is a large, five-story brick building, with a
capacity of accommodation for several hundred pupils. The
free school system is a graded one, under the charge of Rush V.
Derr, superintendent. The attendance numbers some eighteen
hundred pupils, with a constant increase. Mrs. Gilmer's private
school for young ladies has gained quite an enviable reputation,
and its roll is now large. While we readily see that educational
facilities here are good, on the other hand the attendance is not
what it should be. This is a fact to be deplored, as every place
should give every possible attention to education of the young
people. The habit of withdrawing boys from school at the
early age of fourteen or fifteen years, in order to obtain some
situation in an office or store, can neither be too much decried
nor severely criticised.
The journals of Roanoke have done a good service in devel
oping the resources and good interests of the city. Among the

146 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
earlier ones published was the Saturday Review, with Oscar D.
Derr as editor. The Leader, published in the earlier days of
Roanoke, was under the management of Colonel S. S. Brooke,
the now efficient and able popular clerk ofthe hustings court.
To an article in one of his files we are indebted for much val
uable information concerning the earlier history of Roanoke.
The Daily Times, inaugurated and founded by M. H. Claytor, a
gentleman of ability, passed into a company's hands, which has
given it a new garb in the shape of an eight-page paper, and it
has the press dispatches. The . editorial department is under
II. E. Brown, who governs that part well. The Daily Herald
has the largest subscription, and is the leading advertising me
dium in the city, and is under the business management of Mr.
J. W. Camper, to whom it is indebted for much of its success.
J. A. Pugh, who is president of the Virginia Press Association,
is editor, and C. E. Herbert, formerly with the Baltimore Sun
and Manufacturers' Record, is travelling correspondent. The
Evening World, founded by J. P. Ackerly and W. II. Dooley, is
under the editorial control of II. Q. Nicholson, who is from
Baltimore, a gentleman of unusually fine journalistic parts as
well as high literary attainments. The World is advancing rap
idly, and is a good journal in eveuy way. All of these publica
tions can well be commended, and are doing a wonderfully
good part in advancing the interests of the community. The
Daily Herald, under Camper's management, has become a large
advertising sheet. Mr. Pugh, the editor, is very careful in
dealing with every side of any case, desiring to do full justice
to both, never allowing personal prejudice to influence him.
The Evening World is both nice and discriminating in the same
manner, and, while fearless in the discharge of its duties, never'
allows a single personal feeling to become mixed with its
printer's ink. Would that we could say the same for all jour
nals, which have the public more or less in their power.
As time advances over the Magic City we are glad to be able
to write that hotel facilities here are sufficient now. And suf
ficiency is not all, for we scarcely know of two more commo-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 147
dious and handsome buildings than Hotel Roanoke and the
Ponce de Leon, recently opened to the public. The former
had an addition made to it which places it second to none.
Too great credit cannot be given to the Smith brothers, among
the most respectable citizens here, for their pluck, energy,
and wisdom in the conception and erection of their mammoth
building. The service and menu is in keeping with the house
itself, which is handsomely ornamented and finished. Just
such buildings add more to the value of a city than one can
well imagine, and the projectors of them are entitled to its
thanks. Other handsome buildings have been constructed, among
which is the court-house* fire department, and private blocks,
and there is a marked improvement in every way, particularly
in the class of architecture now being erected. The streets
and drives are being looked to, and the boulevard by R. H.
Woodrum's handsome residence is becoming a favorite resort
for pleasure-seekers. Such improvements are always welcome,
and it is to be hoped that they may continue until the beauty
and adornment of Roanoke equals its material advancement.
Many lovely residences are being erected, which not only gratify
the taste for the beautiful, but renders the city so much more
attractive. The city government is well conducted, and con
sidering that the place is new, with such a heterogeneous popu
lation, it is both orderly and quiet. Some people are disposed
to cavil as to Roanoke's health, but we who have lived aud
resided here enjoy the same health as other people. Of course
people die here, but not in greater numbers than elsewhere,
and considering the number of excavations going on for new
buildings in the city, w^e wonder that, without a proper sewer
age system, it should be so healthy. No place advancing like
Roanoke can perfect everything in a moment, so patience must
be called in question to bear the few ills along with the many
blessings of the Magic City.
What is Roanoke's probable future ? In reply we cannot do
better than to quote from " Historical Sketches of Roanoke,"

148 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
so ably revised by H. Q. Nicholson, editor of the Evening World,
which says :
"With the gigantic corporations we have discussed ; with her public enter
prises, in which millions are invested ; with her steady, sober, and honest
class of labor ; with her private undertakings and mercantile pursuits ; with
her hotels, journals, churches, and schools ; with her thoroughly organized
city government, Roanoke is destined to become one of the largest, wealth
iest, and most prosperous cities south of Mason and Dixon's line. Sic tran-
silur."

CHAPTER X.
Salem — Its name — Surrounding country, scenery, and climate — A summer
resort — The seat of learning, refinement, and culture — Manners and
character of the people — Epoch of 1889 to the town — The land compa
nies— D. B. Strouse, A. M. Bowman, J. W. F. Allemong, J. T. Crabtree,
Dr. Dreher, George Allen, William M. Nelson — Industries and manu
factories — Mineral resources and F. J. Chapman — Wonderful growth —
Number of inhabitants — Financial status — Religious, educational, and
social features of the place — Something concerning its future.
WHEN nature, clothed in the garb of* beauty and plen-
teousness, cast her countenance over this section she
smiled first with joy upon that part of the valley
where rests a town which used to bask in the sunlight of its
own name — Salem, or Peace. This place occupies something
of a central position between the ranges of mountains known
as the Alleghany and Blue Ridge, amidst a land of beauty and
delight, ever satisfying to every seuse of taste and sight. Look
as Ave may around the lovely valley stretching away to the
everlasting hills, and naught but sublimity and grandeur greet
the eye, from the succulent green pastures and foliage to the
ethereal blue of the peaked Blue Ridge or the rugged Alle
ghany. The serene calmness surrounding all, the lovely vary
ing scenery in perfect view on all sides, the level outstretching
landscape sweeping away, blended with a balmy atmosphere,
gives a surrounding air impregnated with peace and content
ment found only in Salem. The climate is all that can be
desired, as can be seen from the average temperature for fifteen
years, observed by the late Dr. Griffin, which is as follows :
Spring, 56°; summer, 76° ; fall, 61°; winter, 41°; average for
year, 58°.
It is distinguished for the equability of its climate, being sel
dom too warm in the summer or cold in the winter. Storms,
tornadoes, and cyclones are never known here, and rarely does

150 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
one hear of a case of sickness, except that kind of disease
which providence has provided to gradually remove people
from this world, termed by us in plain parlance — old age. *
Logically, with such a climate and surroundings, Salem could
but be a famous summer resort. Not only the town, but Lake
Spring, near by, and the Roanoke Red Sulphur, nine miles off,
have been taxed to the utmost to sustain the swarms of people
longing to summer in this Eden of the Valley.' When persons
used to travel the macadamized road from Lynchburg to Salem
en route for the Montgomery White and other places west,
before the days of steam, the town was then a place of a thou
sand or more, and a noted summer resort, as well as the county7
seat of the rich county of Roanoke. The society of the place
has ever been celebrated for culture and refinement, an impres
sion of which charmed and followed the visitor even after he
had left the place behind and turned his face homewards.
Since 1853 this town has been a seat of learning. From
that year until now the classic shade of Roanoke College has
thrown its mantle of culture over the place, and the walls of
the building not only enclosed the grand library of seventeen
thousand volumes, but learned professors, and students groping
after that most satisfying yet unattainable elixir of life — the
forbidden fruit — knowledge. Its alumni have branched all over
the land, first shedding its light in Salem, then casting maturer
rays elsewhere. The families of many of the students lived in
the place, who, with the households ofthe professors, caused it
to be par excellence one of learning and culture indeed. The
natural consequence of this was the formation of a status of
society for refinement and native elegance scarcely to be sur
passed. An air of gentle breeding and ease settled over the
place which always impressed itself upon every one entering
the gates of the town.
The maimers and character of the people residing in Salem
were moulded in the highest type, amid the influences of this
nature, and developed a race of people peculiar unto them
selves. Of all the places in Southwest Virginia along the line

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 151
of the Norfolk and Western railroad, there is no town whose
inhabitants are characterized more fully by honesty, probity,
and uprightness in all their dealings than the people of Salem.
The social feature presents a distinct feature in the make-up of
the place, and the original inhabitants were composed of the
best people in the Southwest of Virginia, and the many induce
ments offered as a summer resort insured always a state of
society at once conservative, elegant, and refined. For a num
ber of years Salem existed with her college and this state of
affairs. Yet it was by no means a stagnant place during this
period, for in 1880 there were some eighteen hundred people,
and the placed contained, perhaps, more wealth and business
calibre than any small town in the Southwest. From 1880 to
1889 it progressed very slowly, but the time had now come
when Salem was to discard the long-worn robe of peace and
quietude in order to adorn that of material prosperity.
Touching the development of most of the towns in South
west Virginia, the causes generally rise from situation, rail
road intersections, or some chapter, of events suddenly spring
ing up, unknown before. But not so with Salem. From 1880
until 1889 the place stood at one thing almost, while towns
around rapidly advanced. Towards the latter part of 1889 the
place shot up like some meteor, and from that time until Jan
uary 1, 1891, its growth and development for the time being
excelled any place in Southwest Virginia, Roanoke not ex
cepted. No railroads ran past her doors suddenly; -no chapter
of events appeared upon the scene; no bonanza that had hitherto
lain dormant was found; no sudden placing down of any large
manufacturing plant was seen. What, then, was the cause?
The formation of joint-stock land companies, and placing the
natural and manifold advantages of the town before the public.
Salem owes her development to the united efforts of D. B.
Strouse, A. M. Bowman, J. W. F. Allemong, J. T. Crabtree, Dr.
Dreher, George Allen, Wm. M. Nelson, T. J. Shickel, and F.
J. Chapman, all gentlemen of the best business qualifications
and of indomitable pluck and energy. On October 2, 1889,

152 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
the Salem Improvement Company was organized with an
authorized capital stock of $1,000,000, of which $300,000 was
issued. J. W. F. Allemong was made president, and D. B.
Strouse, who had been prominent in originating the move,
with T. J. Shickel, were placed upon the Board of Directors.
The company purchased about nine hundred acres of land in
and adjoining Salem, and laid off streets and avenues sixty to
seventy-five feet wide, with other improvements. The first
sale of lots took place on December 11, 1889, and within ten
days $300,000 worth were sold. This wras virtually the begin
ning of the development of Salem, and manufacturing indus
tries began to be located at once.- On the twenty-seventh day
of January, 1890, the Salem Development Company was organ
ized with an authorized- capital stock of $1,000,000, with A. M.
Bowman as president. He is of the Palmer-Bowman Company,
of Saltville. Mr. Bowman, originally from the Shenandoah
Valley, has done a great deal for Salem, and the policy adopted
by his company was an aggressive one in the extreme concern
ing the material advancing of the place. Eight hundred acres
were purchased by this company for business and manufactur
ing purposes, and improvements of the most substantial kind
were inaugurated, among which was the construction of the two
iron bridges across the river, with both a drive and a walkway,
at a cost of $18,000. The company also put in water-works at a
cost of $8,000, conveying the fluid from Mountain Spring, 307
feet higher than any point in town, and put under construc
tion fifty dwelling-houses suitable for mechanics. The con
cern is interested, like the rest of the development companies
in Salem, in various enterprises in the city, and owns stock in
many companies. Not less than thirty dwellings and a hand
some hotel and office were constructed by the Salem Improve
ment Company, which also took stock in almost every industry
securing a location in Salem and desiring to operate there. On
January 6th the West Salem Land Company was organized
with a capital stock of $500,000, issued in series or classes, based
upon property which supports each series distinctly. Mr.

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 153
George Allen is president, whom we have already mentioned
in connection with joint-stock land companies in another chap
ter. This company has in course of construction a number of
houses, market-house and four stores, and other improvements.
The South Salem Land Company organized in March, 1890,
with a capital stock of $300,000, and elected J. T. Crabtree as
president, who is better known as a former professor of Greek
at Roanoke College, which position he resigned with honor to
himself and the sincere regret of the college faculty. This
company began its operations by the purchase of 318 acres of
land around Salem. Negotiations were set on foot by the com
pany for two manufacturing plants which they secured, and
plans were laid out for the erection of residences and other im
provements. During the month of February, 1890, the Lake
Spring Land Company was organized with a capital stock of
$100,000, M. M. Rodgers being president. In March, the
Glenmore Land Company came into existence, with E. S.
Strayer as president; while in. this same month the following
companies were organized : The Creston Land Company, capi
tal stock $200,000, G. J. Ligon, president; the Central Land
Company, capital stock $80,000, C. M. Killion, president. The
Glenmore Land Company (mentioned above) was capitalized
at $250,000. In April (the following month) the Steelton
Land Company, capital stock $500,000, with J. C. Langhorne
as president, Arthur T. Powell (brother of L. L. Powell,
of Roanoke, and son of D. Lee Powell, the accomplished edu
cator of Richmond, Va.) being made secretary, was organized.
In this month, also, the Hockman Land Company was formed
with a capital stock of $100,000, and W. M. Nelson, an able
financier, formerly from the Valley of Virginia, was declared
president. From October, 1889, to May, 1890, ten reliable,
strong land companies were organized, with authorized capi
tal ranging from $80,000 to $1,000,000 and unlimited chartered
powers. The men who took the helms of these various organizations
did not start out with any purpose of bare speculation, but

154 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
-with the avowed object of building up Salem, and the results
•crowning their efforts almost immediately proved the fact that
to their industry the development of Salem was due. During
the year 1890 these companies brought in a number of enter
prises and industries that caused the town to double its wealth
and population in the space of one year. Every undertaking
or commercial pursuit which was located at Salem had a free
donation of site, and the companies subscribed liberally to the
stock of these industries planted there. As we have pre
viously stated, the inducements offered by them to foreign
capital were simply irresistible. The logical consequences of
such patriotism and energy were soon experienced. By August ,
22, 1890, a number of large and small ^industries had been
secured and located, and 228 houses of all kinds had been con
structed or were in course of erection, including 159 residences,
35 for stores, offices, and other business purposes, and 34 for
manufacturing enterprises. A scarcity of material prevented
further construction, and how many were then under contract
is not definitely known. By a fair, reasonable estimate, there
¦was expended during the year about $870,000 in buildings for
residences and business purposes. Among the many industries
may be mentioned: The Salem Furnace Company, Salem Car
and Machine Company, Holstein Woollen Mills Company, the
Salem Tanning Company, the Flynn Wagon-Manufacturing
Company, the Salem Gas-Heater Company, the Salem Build
ing and Investment Company, Salem Folding-Chair Company,
the Conrad Chair and Manufacturing Company, candy fac
tory, Camden Iron Works, sash, door, and blind factory,
the Crystal Ice Company, the Gravely Foundry and Machine
Works, brick and tile works, carriage factory, grain cradle
works. These industries include only those which are in opera
tion and secured, and which have been located during the year
1890. The list, with the old enterprises of Salem, will employ
not less than 2,000 or 2,500 mechanics and laborers, and not
withstanding the number of dwellings constructed during the
year there is a pressing demand for house room. In addition

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 155
to the enterprises named, the principal offices of the following
large industries are located in the city : The Bonsack Machine
Company, $1,600,000; the Carper Spark-Conductor Company,
capital $1,000,000 ; the Universal Long-Filler Cigarette Com
pany, $300,000, aud the Comas Machine, Company, $100,000.
These land companies subscribed $250,000 to the capital stock
of $1,000,000 of a basic steel plant, to manufacture steel rails,
plates, and the like. The matter was placed in the hands of
Charles G. Eddy, vice-president of the Nprfolk and Western
railroad, and the Improvement Company of Salem states that
it was at his solicitation that this subscription was made. He
has a high opinion of this place, and is one of the directors,
with Clarence M. Clark, in this Salem Improvement Com
pany. The fact that the Clarks, and Denniston and Brock,
and other Philadelphia parties, have an interest in Salem
augurs well for the place, since they have shown a wonderful
financiering capacity for stocking companies, ranging from tho
howling wildernesses in the rugged mountains to the level
lands in the fertile valleys, and also the greatest ability for
building towns.
People heretofore have been in the habit of speaking of the
climate, rich country, and lovely scenery with which Salem is
blessed. She has all those and something else equally as val
uable almost at her doors— mineral resources. So far as we
can see, this was the cause of a furnace being located there.
To the untiring efforts of F. J. Chapman is due the fact that
people knew of minerals being immediately in the vicinity of
the town. Visionary as Mr. Chapman was deemed when
hunting minerals, it seems now that his opinion was correct in
thinking that the embedded wealth of Southwest Virginia
would " make us all rich some day," .as he termed it. He is
now a resident ofthe town which he has seen grow so rapidly,
and, with his sons, manages the Roanoke Red Sulphur
Springs, Lake Springs, and Hotel Lucerne. Some of the iron
ore around Salem is highly spoken of by Edmund C. Pechin,
general manager of the Virginia Development Company, and

156 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
one of the most consummate judges of such property in this
country. In his report, made April, 1890, he says :
" After considerable negotiations, the furnace has secured the lease of the
Bott property, about seven miles from Salem. * * * * Not only is the
amount of ore apparently very large and of good quality, but it lies in the
foot-hills and on the mountain side in such a shape as to allow easy opening
up and cheap mining. The washing plant and machinery are now being-
built." In 1875, Mr. Chapman began taking options on mineral
lands between Salem and the Peaks of Otter, and there was
scarcely a mountain or hill which he did not explore, and it
must be a source of gratification to him to know that opinions
which he then expressed, though deemed visionary, have been
literally verified by results, even if they were^ accomplished by
means not then thought of — in fact, not, even within the bor
ders of his native State at that time.
The growth of Salem for the past fourteen months has been
simply marvellous. All of the level plateau east of the old
town has become a lively scene of activity in the way of erect
ing hotels, banks, offices, and residences. All have a substan
tial look, and the placing of the new handsome passenger depot
by the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company in this eastern
part of the place will make a lovely town. Pretty villas, cot
tages, and brick buildings are going up, while south of the
railroad is the great blast furnace, now in operation for the
manufacture of pig-iron. The whole surroundings have put on
the air of activity, and so rapidly has building increased that it
is almost impossible to keep apace with it. South ofthe river,
on the development company's land, quite a village is spring
ing up, and the large brick woollen mill now erected will soon
pour forth its products from the raw material, worked up by
numerous operatives for wholesale use. Forty or fifty houses
are now being constructed on the plateau around, while some
handsome dwellings are being finished on the brow of the hill
above. About the whole place there is an air of rapid progress
and growth which impresses one very decidedly on viewing the

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 157
city even from a passing railroad car. That this improvement
will continue there is every reason to believe, from the fact
that in the near future the place will have railroad facilities
which it does not possess at present. The Valley branch of
the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Company is partly graded
from Lexington to Salem, some fifty-four miles, and the con
struction of a branch line by the Roanoke and Southern to Sa
lem will almost insure the building of the Baltimore and Ohio
branch. With such railway facilities the place would breathe
with renewed energy, if such a thing were possible.
The increase in the population of Salem has been in keeping
with her other improvements. From the best evidence upon
the subject which we could gather we are satisfied that in Octo
ber, 1889, there were some 2,500 people in Salem. About Jan
uary 1, 1890, there were some 4,350, as near as we could arrive
at the matter, which shows that in fourteen months the place
has almost doubled in inhabitants.
It is a difficult matter to give a correct statement of the finan
cial worth of a place that is growing rapidly, for the reason
that between assessments there is such a marked change as
does not justify one in adopting any past computation by which
to reckon present value; so the values we give are estimates
based upon the fairest calculations we could obtain at the end
ofthe year 1890. But one thing is true — Salem has been, and
is now, a wealthy place. From the best light upon the subject
we should say her values were :
Real estate ...  $1,856,493 10
Personal property  769,380 96
Value of capital invested, including various enterprises
and stock companies  2,375,000 00
Total values . ... $5,000,874 06
The foregoing, we are sure, is as fair an estimate as can be
given under the circumstances which we have named. There
has been a wonderful increase of values in the space of twelve
months — probably a larger amount in value than any place we
know of in the same length of time.

158 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
The religious, educational, and social features of the place
are all that could be desired. The whole community is a cor
rect, moral, and upright one, besides attending faithfully to the
outward forms and ordinances of religion. Five denomina
tions — Baptist, Episcopal, Lutheran, Methodist, and Presby
terian — throw open their doors for the worship of God every
Sabbath, and hold divine service. The Sunday-schools are
well patronized and excellently supported in every way. The
town is absolutely free from open violation of the code of mo
rality, and drunkenness is rare.
The educational facilities are unexcelled. There are two
good public and several private schools fully equipped in every
way, while a handsome building for a good graded school is
now going uj). This is one of the finest school buildings in
the South, and will be handsomely supported in Salem. Roan
oke College, as we have seen, is located here, and has attend
ance from many States, Indian Territory, Mexico, and Japan,
while the graduates from this institution of learning can be
found scattered over twenty-eight States and Territories, and
some on foreign shores. Dr. Dreher is president of the col
lege, and its standard under his management is of the highest
type. The buildings of the school are spacious and handsome,
and the library an extremely valuable one. The grounds are
beautifully laid off, and, with their canopy of shade, afford a
cool resort to pleasure-seekers in the summer months, of whom
there are generally large numbers in this charming town.
For many years Salem has been, and is now, noted for its
cultivated society and cultured people. Happily, the rapid
material development of the place and influx of strangers do
not seem to have altered its standard or changed its aspect in
this respect. The same culture, refinement, and high standard
are. preserved, and characters who are not in keeping with
sobriety, honesty, and probity are not welcome in this retreat,
nor are they wanted., The influence of education and intellec
tual culture is undoubtedly a refining process, for while it may
not eradicate vice, it will always suggest a guise for it which

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 159
will not shock the finer taste of society. This influence is
strong in Salem, as elsewhere where colleges are in existence,
and exerts a powerful lever in preserving a higher state of
society. The influx of visitors every summer from all parts of
the country, of the best class, has its influence too ; it tends to
preserve the best \order of society for congeniality, if nothing
else. On the whole, the social scale is charming.
That Salem will grow into a city there can be no doubt, and
many think that it will eventually meet Roanoke, forming a
second edition of St. Paul and Minneapolis. The extension of
Roanoke west and Salem east, which is the tendency now,
would seem to be some ground for the assertion. Colonel C-
G. Eddy is reported as having said that a union of the two
places was inevitable. While we are sure from the reasons
we have given that Salem must continue to grow and become
larger, yet what will be in the future we cannot say. It is the
duty ofthe chrouicler to record past events, and deal no farther
with the future than the former by actual experience will
justify. Certain it is, that for natural surroundings and climate,
social and other privileges, its present resources — agricultural
and mineral — its many commercial and manufacturing powers,
Salem has no superior that we know of as a place of residence
or business centre.

CHAPTER XI.
Radford — Situation of the town — Formerly known as Central — Original own
ers ofthe soil — Inception of the place — Its gradual growth until construc
tion of the New River Railroad — Incorporation ol the place as Central
in 1887 — Purchase of the Wharton and Radford farms by the Radford
Land and Improvement Company — West Radford— Development ofthe
same— Its enterprises and industries — The Radford Development Com
pany — Growth of East Radford — Spirit between East and West Radford —
Resources of the town — Its financial status — Its population, schools,
churches, and hotels — Improvement and growth of the place — The Rad
ford " Enterprise "- — Future of the town as an iron centre.
RADFORD, one of the coming cities of Southwest Vir
ginia, is situated on New river, in Montgomery county,
301 miles from Norfolk, and about 100 miles from Bris
tol, Tenn., the western terminus of the Norfolk and Western
Railroad Company. With reference to the Pocahontas Flat
Top coal region, it is most happily situated, since it is at the
junction ofthe New River division ofthe Norfolk and Western
with the main line of the latter. This fact, and the further
statement that New river is some 500 feet wide at this point,
and amply sufficient for water-power, gives the place a promi
nence at once in the eyes of any one at all acquainted with the
topography of the country. Its proximity to the coking
fields at Pocahontas and ore region of the Cripple creek-New
river mineral territory is pregnant with significance as to the
future of the place. Some inquiry into its past is by no means
uninteresting. The place known as Radford now was at one time called
Central. Long before the civil war, and sufficiently far back
for the purposes of this sketch as to the original ownership of
the soil, it appears that it was owned by John McCan diess Tay
lor, Colonel Hamet, and the Ingles family, the latter of whom
were descendants of Mary Ingles, who figured so conspicuously
in frontier warfare with the Indians, as we have already seen.

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 161
John McCandless Taylor's daughter, Elizabeth, married Dr.
John B. Radford, and in the year 1840 the former gave the
latter a thousand acres, situated on both sides of the river,
which property was given by Dr. Radford to Mrs. General G.
C. Wharton, the charming and cultured Mrs. Adams, and his
son, J. Lawrence Radford — all of whom reside at Radford, ex
cept Mrs. General Wharton, who is dead. Colonel Hamet's
property passed into the hands of Stockton Heth and his wife,
the latter of whom was the daughter of Colonel Hamet. The
Ingles property descended to Captain William Ingles, now liv
ing at Radford also. Most of this land, as we shall see later
on, passed into the hands of the development companies now
located at the place.
' This point being equi-distant between Lynchburg and Bris
tol, in 1856 the Virginia and Tennessee railroad -concluded to
have machine shops started here. At that time the place was I
a mere railway station, with three railroad companies' tene- ,
ment houses, a temporary hotel, depot, and store-house, with
some half a dozen families. On the 15th day of October, 1856,
W. B. Ransom, now a resident of New River, landed there with
engines, tools, and machinery, and four apprentice boys, with
a journeyman, for the purpose of opening a shop for the Vir
ginia and Tennessee Railroad Company. On the 10th of De
cember, 1856, the machine shops started under supervision of
Samuel Peters, master mechanic at Lynchburg, with W. B.
Ransom as foreman. In 1858 the latter was made master me
chanic, with charge of the shops at Central for the western
division of the Virginia and Tennessee railroad. In 1860, at
the commencement of the civil war, there were some twenty
families in the place, the population numbering about one hun
dred people, composed principally of railroad men. The town
did not progress at all during the civil war which raged, and
the railroad did but little except to transport troops over its
line ; so Central came out of the struggle in rather a dilapidated
condition. At the close of the civil war the road was soon got
ten into a condition to pass the trains over, and Central began

162 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND-SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
to reyive and build up slowly. At this time the town of New
River, across the river at Radford, had four houses and a saw
mill, and the property was purchased by General G. C. Whar
ton. Subsequently the General was elected to the Virginia
Legislature, and while there obtained a charter incorporating
the New River Railroad, Mining, and Manufacturing Company,
in 1872 — a history of which we have already given. The in
ception of this regenerating scheme for Southwest Virginia
was, as we have seen, due to General Wharton, and many sub
sequent acts of his to aid and assist it place the people of this
section in his debt for the conception, birth, and construction
of the New River railroad, which regenerated Central and was
the beginning ofthe wonderful development ofthe Southwest.
There is nothing which he might reasonably demand of the
people that should not be acceded to by them with gratitude.
Upon completion of the New River railroad and commence
ment of the coal traffic in 1882 and 1883, Central began to
, improve, and in 1887 the place was incorporated, with a popur
lation of five hundred or more. In this same year the Radford
Land and Improvement Company purchased 585 acres of land
from General and Mrs. Wharton, and 970 acres from J. Law-
' rence Radford. The organization of this company and the
purchase of this property was the beginning of the west por
tion of the town called West Radford. From this period on
industries, such as the stove foundry, brick-workt?, and plant
for an iron furnace, came in, and the place grew rapidly and
increased in population until in 1890 there were about 3,000
people in both East and West Radford.
The policy of the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company
of making frequent divisional stops fpr the purpose of building
towns was one of the reasons of Radford's former growth.
The construction and operation of the machine-shops and
round-house at this point gave a decided impetus to the place.
The shops consist of a brick building 200x50, with an annex
for the smith's department of 40x60. Eighty-five hands are
employed regularly in the shops proper, with twenty on the

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 163
car-repairing and inspecting force. There is a round-house
with twenty-four stalls, and the crews running the trains for
both passenger and freight traffic change here. The result is,
most of these workmen have homes, while part of the money
made by the train employees is spent in this place. The ofiice
of division superintendent for the Western division of the Nor
folk and Western Railroad Company is located here, with its
employees and clerks. The pay-roll for the shops, offices, and
yard force amounts to some §7,000 per month. The situation
of this shop here has been very material in advancing the
growth ofthe town.
Subsequently to 1887, when the Radford Land and Improve
ment Company begun their operations, other joint-stock land
corporations were formed, which were as follows: The West
End Land Company, the West Radford Land Company, the
New River Land and Improvement Company, the River View
Company, South Radford Land Company, and the Radford
Development Company. These companies, with an authorized
capital stock of $1,915,000, purchased lands from William
Ingles (property northwest of Radford, over the river — land
belonging to Stockton Heth and wife), and by a donation of
lots, the natural advantages of the town, and a liberal sub
scription to undertakings and plants located there, many valu
able industries were brought in, which gave the place a mate
rial move forward. ,
Some very important manufacturing plants were secured,
among which may be mentioned the Radford Brick Works,
East Radford Brick Works, the Townsend and Hooper Manu
facturing Company, the Radford Stove and Range Company,
the Crane Iron Works and Furnace, sash, door, and blind
factory, knitting company, dwelling-house company, Rad
ford Lumber Company, water company, electric light com
pany, street railway, stone quarry, Radford Bank, Exchange
Bank, and the trust company. Of the industries we have
named many were in operation, some under construction,
but all secured. The majority of them are situated in West

164 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND 'SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
Radford, the rest in East Radford and New River, across the
river. The natural result of all these industries pouring in between
1887 and 1890 was the place became a business town, and be-
|gan to be spoken of abroad as one of the coming cities of
Southwest Virginia. The erection of the cosy, commodious
inn by the land company and the lovely new passenger
station by the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company added
materially to both the comfort and beauty of the town. Where
in 1887 we saw only fields rich with cereals and grass, we now
see a town with broad, well-graded avenues; huge industries,
either in operation or in course of construction ; rows of beau
tiful residences and cottages, and the imposing Radford Inn,
the trust company's offices, and other attractive buildings.
This is West Radford of 1890.
Nor is the east portion of the place (formerly -Central) behind
in this spirit of forward movement which has characterized
the west portion of the town. The organization of the Rad
ford Development Company by Lieutenant-Governor J. Hoge
Tyler was a new era to the place which had grown so slowly
as Central. This concern was formed on the 25th day of
March, 1890, with a capital stock of $200,000, and purchased
three hundred and eighteen acres of land from Stockton Heth
and wife, one-third of which was laid off into lots and broad,
long streets, properly graded. This property lies north of the
town, directly upon the railroad, and east of that part of the .
place located upon the eminence south ofthe railroad. The situa
tion of this part of the company's property on the eminence is
beautifully located for residence purposes, while the portion lying
between the railroad and river is admirably situated for business
houses and man ufacturing sites. In order to fully appreciate the
east portion of Radford it is necessary to go on the hill, or rather
gentle acclivity, around by Captain Heth's lovely residence,
and then the residence part bursts upon the view, adjoining
which lies the lands of this company to the east. One of the
improvements inaugurated by the company was the construe-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 165
tion of " La Belle Inn," which lies east of the beautiful grove
surrounding Captain Heth's. Lots and sites are donated by
this concern for all manufacturing purposes, and it is thought
by some that the railroad will consume a part for extension
of their yard and shops.
' In addition to the railroad shops in this portion of Radford,
there are several other enterprises, such as brick works, wood
and lumber manufacturing concerns, and a substantial banking
and commercial business, supported not only by the people of
the place, but by others from the surrounding country. Much
of the trade which used to go to Christiansburg, the county-seat
of Montgomery, now comes to this town, owing to the fact
that its rapid development and influx of manufactories have
created a demand, and supply invariably follows the former.
Radford is now taking much of the trade of Montgomery and
Pulaski, which was not so formerly, and a further inquiry has
developed the fact that it is making inroads into Giles county,
west of the place.
Considering that East and West Radford are but one place,
and that there is a unity of interest between the two, there
should be complete harmony and a purpose of determination
to advance the interests of each as if they were a whole. But
such is not the case. Each place seems to possess a desire
to help and assist the other no farther than their individual
welfare requires. Necessarily such conduct injures Radford as
a town, and this kind of spirit cannot be too strongly decried
nor severely condemned. With all the advantages, both natu
ral and artificial, which the city possesses, it does seem wrong
for any one part to hold back on account of another when all
is at stake. Both have the same unexcelled agricultural and
mineral resources, which, after all, are the substance of every
town's growth in this section, and each could advance and as
sist the material prosperity of the other without injuring or
affecting its own.
When we come to speak of the resources of this place we
more or less give an insight into its advantages, with which we

166 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
know of but few places that compare so favorably. In the
first place, its situation seems to have been formed by nature
for the purpose of making it an iron centre. It is peculiarly
fortunate in having unusually fine railway facilities. Located
on the great thoroughfare east and west, it has the certain prob
ability of an outlet northwest by way of the New River branch
into Ohio, and a southeastern one by way of the extension from
Ivanhoe into North Carolina, to connect with the Cape Fear
and Yadkin Valley railroad. It has almost unlimited water-
power running at its borders, and that is a material item in the
make-up of a city. Its surrounding country is one ofthe finest
agricultural regions in this whole section, having on the east
the grai n-growing counties of Montgomery, Roanoke, and Bote- ,
tourt, while on the west it possesses the splendid grazing and
stock-raising country noted throughout the whole State for its
productiveness. By reason of its lying on New river, which
flows from North Carolina in a northwesterly direction into the
Ohio at Point Pleasant, and its railroad communications, it is
the natural outlet for all the agricultural and grass productions
of the rich Southwest. Its immediate surrounding country is
extremely rich in all the natural fruits of the soil ; and although
it lies on an elevated plateau, the land possesses all the fertility
and beauty that is seen in the rich valleys of Pennsylvania and
Maryland. As a place of residence it has no superior, because,
being elevated some 1,800 feet above the sea, it is free from all
malaria, and possesses an atmosphere at once pleasant and in
vigorating. <
When we turn to mineral resources, this place occupies a pre
eminent position above every one that we know of, if we except
Pulaski City. As we have stated before, it is situated at the
junction of the main line of the Norfolk and Western Railroad
Company with the New River division of the same. This lat
ter branch leads directly to the great coal and coking fields of
the Flat Top region, some seventy miles off. The value of this
coke for blast furnaces manufacturing pig-iron has already been
alluded to, and virtually the material in this part of iron mak-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 167
ing may be said to be at Radford's doors. Only a few hours
run places coke of the best quality and in unlimited quantities
at its furnaces, giving the city a rate as to freight which others
farther off cannot hope for except through railroad manipula
tion, which is now a violation of law. In respect to ores the
town is equally as fortunate. Only twenty-five miles away are
the celebrated New river-Cripple creek regions, containing large
quantities of the best iron ore, which can be reached now by
rail. The quality and character of this ore have been referred
to already in a former chapter, and a full analysis given. But
Radford may, and has it in its power to come nearer still to
the ore section than at present. At the last session of the
Legislature Mr. J. Lawrence Radford, the representative from
Montgomery county, obtained a charter incorporating the Rad
ford and Little River railroad, which in time is obliged to be
constructed, and when it is, the ore fields of Carroll and Floyd
will be but a matter of eighteen miles away. The construction
of furnaces for reduction ofthe raw material will cause the Rad
ford and Little River railroad to be built. So the natural posi
tion of the place is that of Pittsburgh and other iron centres —
a junction ofthe ore and coking regions.
The financial condition of Radford has a fair showing, and
gives evidence of the capital invested in the place since 1887.
Inasmuch as the land companies own a greater part ofthe real
estate, this property is classed with the amount represented by
them. While there may be some slight variation from the
statement we give, in the main it will be found to be a fair epi
tome of the values in the place :
Value of property owned by the land companies, and real estate, $1,950,000
Amount of capital invested in other enterprises of every descrip
tion  . 2,250,000
Value of personal property  . . 486,200
$4,686,200
This estimate includes everything in the nature of property,
real and perishable. The values may seem large on the first
blush ; but it must be remembered that Radford, as delineated

168 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
by us, extends from East Radford to New River town across
the river, including that. The amounts, upon investigation,
will be found to be a fair representation as of the year 1890.
The population of the place has increased greatly since 1887.
At that time there were some five hundred people, and the
town was slowly progressing, but now it is claimed by the peo
ple of the place to be four thousand. From an investigation
on this score we are safe in saying that in January, 1891, the
town had about 3,700 people — may be a fraction over. The last
census did not show so many, but since that was taken there
has been a considerable increase. The inhabitants as a whole
are good and clever people, and, considering that the place is
new, there is an absence of those rough, quasi criminal char
acters which usually infest a town just beginning to grow. A
great many of the descendants of the original people of this
' Southwest section are there, among whom may be mentioned
General G. C. Wharton and family, Captain R. H. Adams and
wife {nee Radford), J. Lawrence Radford, the Goodwyns, Kears-
leys, Barclays, Crockets, Ingleses, Heths, Tylers, Hoges, and
some others, all of whom compose a social status extremely
pleasant. In New River (the upper part ofthe town) live some
persons who have been at the place for many years and know
each and every step of its progress. Educational facilities in
the town are good, and there has been an increase in the
attendance of scholars since the town was incorporated. There
are two schools in the place, one of- which is known as the
"Belle Heth Academy," which is in East Radford, and a fine
building in West Radford. These schools are under the charge
and control of Professor Gunn, who has an able corps of assist
ants, and the grade of scholarship is fair. The usual attendance
of scholars number up to five hundred. Christian privileges
are ample and sufficient in every way, there being Methodist,
Missionary Baptist, Christian Baptist, Episcopal, Presbyterian,
and Northern Methodist churches in the place, and divine
worship is held in each one respectively every other or every
Sabbath day. The pastors are men of both high moral char-

\ \ \
\ w

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLBY. 169
acter and theological culture. In West Radford a lot has been
donated, aud an Episcopal church will be erected, not far from
where the present rector (Mr. Robert Goodwyn) resides with
his charming and ^cultured family. In addition to school facili
ties and religious privileges the stranger can always find in
Radford pleasant hostelries in which to enjoy the comforts and
luxuries of life. The Radford Inn, in the west part of the f
town, is one of the number of hotels managed by Fred. E.
Foster, and its service and menu is good. Several others are ¦-
in East Radford, among which may be mentioned, in addition
to "La Belle Inn," the Commercial and Hoffman houses, both
comfortable places.
In many places the growth of a town into 3,000 or 4,000
people in three years would be considered quite rapid, but
in Southwest Virginia it is what is termed a sound, healthy
progression. Radford has never been advertised to any con
siderable extent until the latter part of the year 1890, yet its
improvements resulting from natural advantages have been
marked. Three years ago Captain Barclay, of Kearsley, Bar-
, clay & Crocket, a real estate firm in the place, and a gentleman
originally from Lexington, walked through the mud from East
Radford to West Radford to sell the lots laid off by the Radford
Land and Improvement Company. He was a pioneer real
estate agent there, and then there were neither houses, streets,
nor sidewalks, and no bridge was in existence to connect the
two, places. Now a well-graded street, with sidewalks, can be
seen, and substantial residences, business-houses, and manu
facturing enterprises greet the eye on every side. And so it is
with East Radford, where the development company's property
is situated, which has done so much in every way for the
growth of the city. The improvement in every way has been
a marked one, extending even across the river as far as the
property known as "Brooklyn Heights," a beautiful site for
resident purposes, and which belongs to A. Robinson, of West
Radford, one of the leading real estate men in the place.
Among the improvements in Radford, and one which has done

170 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
its part in the development of Southwest Virginia, is tbe Rad
ford Enterprise, published by Wardle & McGregor. It has
always been a beautiful sheet, and well edited in every sense.
The special issue prepared by them in October, 1890, was a
monument to their taste, energy, and mechanical genius, and
its portrayal of the advantages and resources of Southwest
Virginia should enlist the gratitude of the people and insure
the paper a handsome support. In the selection of all material
there is a perfect freedom from all bad taste and double entendre
which sets an example that other journals in this section might
well follow.
The future of this place, so far as we can see, is undoubtedly
a bright one. With its natural situation and water-power, its
position with reference to the coal and coking regions, its rich
surrounding agricultural country, its climate and health, its
manufacturing and commercial interests, its upright and hon
est class of people, Radford is sure to be one of the coming
cities of Southwest Virginia, and an iron centre of no small
magnitude.

CHAPTER XII.
West of New river — Stock-grazing section — New river plateau — Pulaski
county — New river-Cripple creek mineral region — Cripple Creek exten
sion of the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company — Martin's Tank —
Beginning of its development — Growth of the place, and change of name
to Pulaski City— Bertha Zinc Works— George T. Mills— L. S. Calfee—
The furnaces and other industries and enterprises — Population, schools,
churches, and social state of the town — Pulaski City as an iron centre —
Probable future of the place.
WE will now conduct our reader into that productive,
charming, and beautiful country west of New river,
and known as the blue grass section of Southwest
Virginia. Near Pulaski City, and adjoining the county by this
name, lies the counties of Floyd, Grayson, aud Carroll, com
posing the celebrated region known as the New river plateau.
This country, as well as the counties west and southwest, is the
home of cattle, sheep, and all classes of stock, the raising of
which has been so remunerative in days gone by, and which
still constitutes one of the chief agricultural pursuits in these
counties of which we are writing. A lovelier country than
this, or a richer or more productive one, it would be hard to
find, and the climate is more salubrious, if anything, than the
places we have been writing of hitherto. The reason for this
difference we have already explained, which arises from the fact
that the farther west we go after reaching the summit of the
Alleghanies the milder it becomes, which accounts for the
delightful temperature around Wytheville, Virginia. The
finest bred herds of cattle are raised in thisgjeetion, which not
only assist in supplying the Northern markets, but are shipped
to Europe; and horse-breeding has become quite popular with
many of the people of the country. ¦ Pulaski is one of the
counties composing this favored section, and was cut off from
Montgomery and Wythe in the year 1839 to administer its own
affairs, with Newbern, one mile from Dublin, as the county-seat.

172 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
This county composes a portion of the celebrated "New river-
Cripple creek mineral region," of which we have already spoken,
and which contains an area of some 300 square miles in this and
Wythe county. This country is rich beyond conception in ore-
bearing properties, and the quality of the very best. Limestone
iron ore and mountain ore lie in vast quantities, while in the
county of Carroll adjoining has been discovered what is known
as the " gossan ore," which not only makes a splendid class of
pig-iron by itself, but gives a decided character to the iron manu
factured from ordinary ores mixed with this. This ore-bearing
section has long been known, for charcoal furnaces have been
in course of operation for years, hauling their products by
wagon over the mountains to the nearest station on the rail
road, before the erection ofthe Cripple Creek extension. Along
the lines of this last branch of road may be seen the remnants
of these old furnaces, which were fed with coal burned from the
trees of the forest. Having given in a previous part of this
work an analysis of these ores, we will not attempt another
here, but simply say that a richer and better ore-bearing terri
tory does not exist than the one we are attempting to describe.
And not only iron, but both zinc and lead, have been worked
with profit, and the largest zinc works — the Bertha Zinc
Works — in this section draws its raw material, from this ore-
bearing territory. The Claytons, of Baltimore, own and are
develojnng this gossan ore, which even impressed Mr. Edmund
C. Pechin so favorably as to cause him to report especially upon
it to the stockholders of the Virginia Development Company.
The Pulaski Iron Company at its furnace used some of this
gossan ore with the ordinary ores, and the result from the re
duction was a superior quality of pig-iron. All of this valua
ble ore-bearing country is but a few miles from Pulaski City,
the town which we now propose to describe; of which Colonel
Eddy says, in "Reference Book of the Norfolk and Western
Railroad Company," for which he deserves special credit in
compiling :

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 173
"An additional iron furnace is now being erected, and the promise of
Pulaski becoming one of the most important industrial cities in Southwest
Virginia is now becoming a fact." (Description of Pulaski City, page 39).
There is an amusing tradition concerning the ground on
which this place rests, which we have determined to give, be
cause it may have been true. Iu fact, the weight of the extrin
sic evidence in its favor leads us to credit it at least. We give
here a statement of Mr. Robert L. Gardner, in his own lan
guage, who resides in this place, and is a prominent attorney
and a gentleman of unquestionable veracity. He writes :
"Tradition has it that some time back — very early — in the present century
Robert Martin traded an old flint-lock rifle gun to the two Montgomery boys
for a large, wild boundary of lands located in the county of Wythe, near
where a tank, familiarly known as ' Martin's Tank ' now lies. However that
may be, the records of Pulaski make no mention of anything of the kind,
inasmuch as this county was established from portions of Wythe and Mont
gomery in 1839. The records of Pulaski county do show that the said Robert
Martin departed this life leaving a will of date June 26, 1854, and which was
. admitted to probate on the 5th day of May, 1859, wherein he devised a large
body of arable lands to his son, Robert D. Martin.
" Also, the large tract of land owned by John Montgomery was purchased
from him by John Floyd, ex-governor, and father of John B. Floyd. The
tract consisted of 2,000 acres of land. John B. Floyd subsequently sold to
James N. Pierce and Dr. Watson, said Pierce coming into possession of that
portion ofthe tract now known as the ' Litchfield and Bohanon properties.' "
Martin's Tank, the name of the railway station which stood
where Pulaski City now stands, doubtless took its name from
the family of Martins who formerly owned the soil. Near the
spot where the development company's furnace is now being
erected under the supervision of George T. Mills, the president,
and successful railroad contractor, stands the frame house in
which Governor Floyd once resided, after whom the county of
Floyd was named. This property passed out of the hands of
that family, being subsequently owned by Mr. Pierce and Dr.
Watson, from whom the development companies purchased.
Martin's Tank was but a flag-stop prior to the commence
ment of the development of the place, and its subsequent
growth and change of name to Pulaski City may be attributed

174 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. '
to the building of the Cripple Creek extension of the Norfolk
and Western Railroad Company into the rich ore-bearing
country we have described. This place gradually improved
from 1883, during the construction of the Cripple Creek exten
sion from Pulaski City through Wythe county, by Allisonia,
Reed Island, Barren Springs, Foster Falls, Austinville, and on
to Ivanhoe, which point was reached late in 1886 or early in
1887. From this time the' town commenced to improve, and
the industries springing up was the cause. The first and
largest, probably, of any other manufacturing enterprise in this
section at that time was the Bertha Zinc Works, located at this
point. This wealthy company was first organized in 1879, and
reorganized in the year 1886, with a capital stock of $3,000,-
000 — George W. Palmer, of Saltville, being president, Thomas
Jones superintendent, and G. M. Holstein local treasurer and
paymaster, as well as general manager of the office. The
grounds of these works occupy ten acres of lands, and they
have the most approved methods for manufacturing pure spel- .
ter. The coal, ore, and all material used by this company
comes from their own property, and they have a department
to manufacture their own_ pottery, such as fire-brick, pots, and
pipes used for the reduction of the raw material in the fur
nace. The company works about eight hundred men at the
furnace, mines, and in all the occupations connected with the
zinc manufacture, with a pay-roll of $20,000 per month. The
product of this company's works is said to be as pure spelter
as any made in the United States, and possesses a fine reputa
tion in Northern markets. The result to Pulaski in having such
an enterprise was that the place began to grow at once, and
people came from a distance to seek knowledge concerning it.
This company has its narrow-gauge road running from Pulaski
City to its coal mines, the construction of which assisted the
town materially, and the number of laborers employed gave an
impetus to the commercial interests of the place which produced
a marked change in this line at once. Stores, dwellings, and
improvements began to be erected ; the town was named Pu-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 175
laski City, and we hear of Martin's Tank no more except as a
thing of the past. Branch roads to the mines were built in
1886 or early in 1887. Since then this extension has been
pushed to Speedwell, while the proposed line into North Car
olina branches off at Ivanhoe. The completion of the road to
Ivanhoe, in the year 1887, inaugurated a new future for Pu
laski City, which in 1883 was known as Martin's Tank, and
was the dwelling-place of three or four families, as well as a
watering station for the Norfolk and Western Railroad Com
pany's engines.
Probably no two men have played a more important part
nor done more to develop the country and city than George T.
Mills and L. S. Calfee, who now reside in the place. George
T. Mills first saw this portion of the country when he passed
through with Cooke's raid in 1863 aud engaged in the fight at
Cloyd's Mountain, subsequently striking this immediate sec
tion at Dublin, which was burned. After the cruel war
was over he became engaged in railroad contracting, and grad
ually worked his way until in 1883 he became a wealthy man,
and reached Pulaski City (then Martiu's Tank) for the purpose
of grading the Cripple Creek extension. He, in conjunction
with L. S. Calfee, obtained possession of several large bodies
of mineral lands, which subsequently were the basis of forma
tion of two or three large joint-stock companies. Lee S.
Calfee was born in Pulaski county, and merchandised up to
1882, when he began to take a part in the development going
on, and afterwards became connected with the various enter
prises for the advance of Pulaski City.
In the year 1887 the Pulaski iron furnace was constructed,
being the property of the Pulaski Iron Company, organized in
the same year with a capital stock of $450,000. This concern
also owns mines at Patterson, on the Cripple Creek extension,
from which point much of the ore used by them is brought.
The capacity of the furnace is one hundred and twenty tons
per diem, and it made a two-year run before going out of blast,
producing 100,000 tons of pig-iron. As may well be seen, the

176 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
establishment of such an industry gave the town an impetus
in a business way which can be well imagined. This furnace
has been eminently successful, especially under the manage
ment of Mr. George Echman, who has charge now, and whose
knowledge of the reduction of iron ore, coke, and limestone
to pig-iron is of the most intelligent and varied order. The
organization of the "Pulaski Land and Improvement Com
pany," in 1887, was another enterprise which assisted this
young town. With a capital stock of $250,000, this company
purchased a lovely tract of land north of the railroad, and its
policy to sell lots cheaper to those who desired to erect houses,
, and a requirement that only brick houses should be built in a
certain part of the town, resulted in some very handsome dwell
ings in the way of banks, stores, and other buildings now^iinder
the ownership of various people. Mr. Dinges is president of
this company, but the well executed management devolves
upon Mr. Taylor, who has charge, and resides at Pulaski City.
During the same year the Hematite Iron Company, capital
stock $100,000 ; the Martin Land and Improvement Company,
capital stock $150,000; the Swansea Land Company, capital
stock $100,000, were formed, which did good work towards'the
development of the city of Pulaski. The two latter companies
constructed a number of houses, which added greatly to the
beauty of the place and are a source of revenue to the company.
George T. Mills and L. S. Calfee were the moving spirits-
in these developing concerns which assisted so materially in
building up the town.
The year 1890 saw Pulaski City a place of some 2,500 peo
ple, with an increasing population to three thousand by now.
Good, solid, substantial buildings can be seen on all sides, while
some lovely residences adorn the place. The character of the
architecture of the place is unusually good; seeming to be con
structed with a view towards the town becoming a city. In
this year the Pulaski Development Company was organized
with a capital stock of $500,000, which subscription was made
principally among the people at home, Messrs. Mills and Rob-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 177
inson taking the priucipal part. This concern began at once
the erection of a large furnace, with a capacity of one hundred
and fifty tons per diem. This huge plant is placed in a bottom
to the east of the town, on the old Floyd place, while the offices
and dwellings connected with it are located on a lovely emi
nence above, commanding a fine view of the surrounding coun
try and mountains. Following this great enterprise others
came in rapidly, and now the future ofthe place as a city is an
assured fact. The enterprises under construction, and those
to be built which have been secured, will create a demand for
employees enough, with families, to double the present popu
lation. The place is constructing a water-works which will
supply the town with an abundance of the fluid from a moun
tain side near the lower furnace. The mercantile interests
and banking facilities are admirable, and the place as a whole
seems to be both prosperous aud happy.
The inhabitants of this place are composed of the best people
in the section vof which we are writing, and considering that it
is in part an iron-manufacturing centre and a mineral region,
they are remarkably quiet and well behaved. That part of the
city where the employees ofthe Bertha Zinc Works live and the
furnace hands reside is picturesque, comfortable-looking, and
quiet. Riots, agitations, and rows are unknown among this
class, who quietly pursue their occupations and amusements.
Religious privileges are good, as churches of the Episcopal,
Methodist, and other denominations are there to hold worship
every Sabbath. Educational facilities are unusually well pro
vided, since they have the finest school building and one ofthe
best graded schools that we know of in Southwest Virginia,
the regular attendance of scholars being some 350 children,
exclusive of colored.
The hotel accommodations here are of a superior order in
every way conceivable, as the Maple Shade Inn, known far and
wide, is still in existence, and being enlarged under Fred. E.
Foster's management. Of all the well-known hostelries con
trolled by the Norfolk and Western, which are all admirably

178 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
conducted, Maple Shade is the most superior, resulting from
Mr. Hayes' management, who has a genius for the business. On
the shaded avenue near the railroad Mr. Richard B. Roane
has an excellent house. He is the same who played an impor
tant part in the New River railroad, and who did so much for
the development of that, road in its earlier history.
The social features of Pulaski are good and interesting.
Whether we take the inn or go into town, there is always a
genial, intelligent set of people with whom one can while away
the time. The Browns, Moores, Calfees, Taylors, Joneses,
Langhornes, McGills, and others equally as pleasant, compose
a delightful circle in a social way, and one of which Pulaski
City may well be proud.
The situation of this city with reference to the ore and coking
fields render it, as it is already beginning to be, an iron centre.
True, there are furnaces on the Cripple Creek extension, but
hey have a haul on coke, and the furnaces east and west of
Pulaski have a haul on ore, which gives this latter place an un
questionably good position as an iron centre. Here, too, are
the supplies and the necessary sites for both residence and
business purposes. Furnaces are going up, and a plant for a
rolling-mill and bar-mill established. With its present indus
tries, its near situation to the ore regions, its natural advan
tages, Colonel Charles G. Eddy was not wrong in saying in the
reference book, page 39 :
* * * " And the promise of Pulaski's becoming one of the most impor
tant industrial cities in Southwest Virginia is now becoming a fact."

CHAPTER XHI.
Wythe County — Max Meadows — Wytheville— Crockett and Rural Retreat —
Washington county — Glade Springs— Saltville — Future of the cities and
towns of Southwest Virginia.
CAVING Pulaski City, in going westward we soon come
into Wythe county, whose name is synonymous with agri
cultural resources and mineral wealth. This county plays
an" important part in the make-up of the New river-Cripple
creek mineral region, as we have seen, and is noted for the fine
stock raised within its borders. Some of its lands have been
long celebrated for their productiveness, while years ago iron
was made from its charcoal furnaces, and lead manufactured at
Austinville. We know of no country which has a finer mineral
territory, and why its towns have played so small a part in the
recent development we cannot imagine for a moment. But
this section is fast progressing now, and the day is not far dis
tant when Wytheville will redeem itself for past errors in this
respect and take its proper place as the county-seat of one of
the wealthiest counties in Southwest Virginia.'
Max Meadows a year or two ago was a station on the Nor
folk and Western railroad, at which point iron from the fur
naces on the Cripple creek region was hauled in wagons for a
distance of ten miles. Capitalists, recognizing the vast mineral
deposits near this place, purchased these ore banks and, form
ing a land company, bought the ground around the station,
and now it has become quite a village, with every mark of im
provement. A large furnace is in course of construction, built
by the "Max Meadows Iron Company," with a capacity of one
hundred and thirty-five tons per diem. This furnace draws its
ores from lands of the company, some four miles away, or less.
The company also constructed a handsome inn, which is now

180 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
open to the public, and is a model of elegance and comfort.
This place, for many reasons, has a future before it, two of which
we need only mention — its natural advantages in reference to
climate and agricultural resources, and the further fact that it is
supported and controlled by the Virginia Development Com
pany. The capital stock of the Max Meadows Iron Company
is $400,000, and the shares owned by the Virginia Develop
ment Company in this amount to $75,000. In the Max
Meadows Land and Improvement Company it owns $75,000 of
its stock, and practically controls it. These facts lead us to
naturally suppose that the place which in the last few months
has developed so rapidly will grow into a town, or perhaps a
city — who knows ? The position of Max Meadows is a central
one for its supply of coke and ores, as well as for the shipment
of manufactured products to the northern and northwestern
and eastern markets. The section around is one. of the finest
live-stock countries we know, and Fort Chiswell stock farm is
but a short distance off. Throughout this whole productive
country there will be a home demand in a few years for the
supplies raised which will place the farming community upon
a much sounder basis. Max Meadows is three hundred and
twenty-nine miles from Norfolk and seventy-nine miles from
Bristol. Its development and improvement is mainly due to
the efforts of the Virginia Development Company, which is
playing such an important part in the progress of the extreme
Southwest that at this point in our work it deserves some notice.
On October 1, 1887, the Virginia Steel Company was or
ganized under a broad and liberal charter of the Legislature of
Virginia, and until 1889 confined itself to operations in the
mining of ore. In May, 1889, desiring ta-*"extend the opera
tions of the company by building blast furnaces, rolling mills,
foundries, and other enterprises, and to develop in particular
the resources of Southwest Virginia and Shenandoah Valley,
the company increased its capital 'stock from $100,000 to
$5,000,000, and the name was changed to that of the Virginia
Development Company, with the following officers : President,

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 181
Richard S. Brock; First Vice-President and Treasurer, Clarence
M.Clark; Second Vice-President, S: E. Chauvenet ; Secretary,
E. J. Collins. This company has a cumulative, full-paid, pre
ferred stock of $1,000,000, and $4,000,000 of common stock,
20 per cent, of which is paid with provisions that not more than
15 per cent, can be called in any one calendar year. By libe
ral subscriptions on the part of this company industries and
enterprises, by way of furnaces, land improvement companies,
and other operations, have been put on foot and brought to
completion in Radford, Max Meadows, Graham, Salem, and
Pocahontas, in Southwest Virginia, giving an almost invaluable
assistance to this section in developing its resources and utiliz
ing them. Mr. Edmund C. Pechin, whom we have quoted fre
quently on the subject of ores, is general manager, and a gentle
man eminently qualified to fill the onerous and important
duties of this post. It has done more than any other joint-stock
company that we know of for Southwest Virginia, and on that
account is entitled to the thanks and gratitude of the people.
As an engine of development it has struck telling blows, and
wherever it touches progress comes as if by some magic hand.
So we may well understand that when Max Meadows was
centred upon as one of the points of investment for this com
pany, it was but natural that it should make rapid strides
materially. Wytheville, the county-seat of Wythe, is situated on a beau
tiful plateau, slightly depressed, on the summit ofthe Alleghany
mountains, 133 miles west of Lynchburg and 71 miles east of
Bristol, the western terminus of the Norfolk and Western
Railroad Company. Owing to its position in a country of
unexcelled productiveness and charming scenery, and with a
climate that is almost perfect, this place for many years has
been a noted summer resort for people from many other, States
in the Union, particularly the Southern States. The place is
2,300 feet above the level of the sea. There is always a refresh
ing breeze, which not only relieves depression and debility,
but gives an invigorating, healthy buoyancy to the system so

182 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
pleasant to wearied humanity. The climate compares . favor
ably with that of Turin and Geneva, in Europe, as can be seen
from the following comparative temperature for some years :

Spring.

Summer.

Autumn.

Winter.

Year.

Turin . . .
Geneva .
Wytheville . . .

. . . 52.2
. . . 53.7
52

70.3 71.5
70.6

54.2
53.8
53

34.0 33.5
32.3

52.0753.1
53

The thermometer i£ rarely above ninety degrees in summer
or below zero in winter, and in the warm months of July and
August the evenings are delightful, and the nights so cool that
a blanket becomes comfortable.
This place is one of the oldest towns in Southwest Virginia,
being over a century in years, and is very conservative in all
its ideas and views. The place is one of the yearly circuits of
the Court of Appeals of Virginia, which sits there every June
for this section of Virginia. The town is well laid off, with
broad streets, the main one being the old macadamized road
which ran from Seven-mile Ford, in Smyth county, to Staun
ton, in Augusta county, Virginia. Standing at the upper end
of Main street and looking down through the place, a beautiful-
vista is presented between the sidewalks, which becomes almost
sublime when seen at night under the rays ofthe electric-lights,
which the town has the good fortune to possess. From the
earliest years of this century Wytheville has been a trading
centre for the counties adjoining Wythe, and from this source
principally it drew a support, and a handsome one, too. The
past days of covered wagons, 'loaded with produce of every
description, coming in from the country to get their supplies,
are still within the memory of some of the inhabitants of the
place, who deem railroads an invasion and regard the con
tinued triumphs of science as a sign of the demoralization of
these days in which we live.
Wytheville, owing to the demands of this trade of which we
have just spoken, has always been something of a manufactur
ing place in order to supply them as far as profitable and prac
ticable. A furniture establishment, carriage and wagon manu-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 183
factory, a machine shop and foundry, a flouring mill, several
cigar factories, a canning establishment, are in operation, all of
which add materially to the welfare of the place. But now
Wytheville is throwing off her lethargy and recognizing her
vast agricultural and mineral resources, and is determined to
take advantage of them. Capitalists are seizing hold of these; a
development company has been organized, and new hotels are
to be erected and a general improvement inaugurated. The con
struction of Jackson Park Hotel in the beautiful woodland west
ofthe place will result in the erection of a building which will
eclipse any other we know of in the way of natural scenery and
beauty of situation. There is no reason that can be possibly
assigned to show why this place should not become a great
manufacturing centre and still retain its prestige as a summer
resort and an educational point of celebrity.
Wytheville is certainly a seat of learning, if the number and
good reputation of its schools constitute it. A great many in
stitutions of learning are here, both male and female, among
which may be mentioned Wytheville Male Academy, A. A.
Campbell principal ; Plummer Memorial Female College, Rev.
S. R. Preston principal ; Wytheville Seminary, Mrs. Thomas
R. Drew principal. All of these schools are conducted upon
the best possible educational principles, while moral and physi
cal training are strictly attended to, and the comforts and pleas
ures of the students considered. These establishments have
developed the minds of many a man and woman who have
played no small part in the development of Southwest Vir
ginia. Co-existing with these fine scholastic advantages are
the best possible religious privileges, which have a material in
fluence upon the place. The Roman Catholic, Episcopal, Pres
byterian, Methodist, Christian, Lutheran, and Baptist denomi
nations are here, all of which have churches, and divine wor
ship is held every Sabbath ; and Sunday-schools are in a flour
ishing condition. These educational facilities and Christian
observances have not only a salient effect upon the residents of
the place, .but impress the minds of the visitors more or less.

184 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
The result is a state of society which is admirable and charm
ing in every way, and which gives the place the reputation of
¦ being the most elegant and refined one in this section of coun
try. Amusements are plentiful, and the German club, organ
ized by the young men of the place, and which meets once a
week at each ofthe hotels, is a distinctive feature in the make
up ofthe pleasures ofthe town.
While Wytheville has grown slowly, there has been an in
crease all the time in its population, for in the year 1860 there
were only fifteen hundred people in the place, while now .there
are three thousand; and with the many natural advantages it
possesses in the way of agricultural resources and mineral
wealth -almost at its doors, it should continue to increases-only
more rapidly — than it has done hitherto. It is surrounded with
the best type of ores, and a soil on which nature has expended
her utmost force to render it rich and productive. The United
States fish hatchery is near this town, and is an object of no
small amount of curiosity.
Passing westward from Wytheville some thirteen miles, we
arrive atjRural Retreat, which is 2,500 feet above the level of
the sea, being the most elevated place on the line of the Norfolk
and Western Railroad Company. Near this place is Crockett,
which has been, and is now, a shipping point for the iron
manufactured at the charcoal, furnaces near by. Both this
place and^Rural Retreat are the centre of a section of country
which is growing financially well off from the production and
sale* of cabbage. Large quantities of this succulent vegetable
of the finest quality are produced and shipped South annually
from these places. The cultivation of fruits, vegetables, poul
try, and eggs is always a sign of prosperity among the farming
community, and with a home, demand, which they are fast
gaining, to consume their supplies, they must necessarily be
come a rich and independent class.
Glade Springs is located in Washington county, one of the
wealthiest and loveliest counties in Southwest Virginia. This
thriving town, though small, has a future, and is the native

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 185
heath of blooded horses shipped everywhere, and finely bred
cattle. The place takes its name from the point known as Old
Glade Springs, on the wagon road between Baltimore, Mary
land, and Knoxville, Tennessee. Its situation is in the richest
blue-grass section of Washington county, agriculturally one of
the best in the State, and possessing the same mineral traces
running through the county to Damascus which we find on the
Cripple creek region. In 1865 there were five residences only
at this place, and it drew its support from the rich agricul
tural region, where stock-raising and grazing constitutes the
chief pursuit. Now the town has a population of six or seven
hundred people, and is on the increase. It lies at the junction
of the Saltville branch with the Norfolk and Western Railroad
Company, and on that account possesses some importance,
while Washington Springs — quite a summer resort — as well as
the Glades, is only some two miles and a half distant. In this
place is a large agricultural machinery company, which has
the supply of the territory of the States of Tennessee, Kentucky,
North Carolina, and Virginia, ahd which does a handsome
business. The situation of the town is in a beautiful country,
directly upon the line of the railroad.
Besides being the junction of the railroads already named,
Glade Springs has become quite a school centre, at which the
Glade Spring Academy for young men is situated, and a school
for young ladies, conducted on a system of the utmost economy
consistent with the acquisition of knowledge, health, and true
comfort. This college is known as the Southwest Virginia
Institute for young ladies, and was first opened for the recep
tion of pupils in 1884, and since that time, under the executive
management of M. M. Morriss, D. 0. Beatty, and others, has
succeeded admirably. The peculiar object and intention of '
the promoters of this school were worthy in the extreme, for
they proposed to found an institution, not for the purpose of
making money, but to give ladies in straightened circumstances
the best possible culture at the least possible cost. Through
the aid of philanthropic persons sums sufficient were obtained

186 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
to erect the buildings and have sufficient grounds. These were
placed in charge of some capable person, rent free, which en
abled the principal to take the young ladies at much less than
ordinary schools are in the habit of doing. The buildings are
increased as the occasion may require by the board of trustees,
and kept in thorough repair without expense to the principal.
At the last session the faculty was composed of seventeen offi
cers and teachers, while there were one hundred boarders and
some forty day pupils. This plan for assisting in the culture
of poor young ladies is worthy the highest commendation, and
Mr. M. M. Morriss and Rev. J. R. Harrison, who labored so
hard to make it a success, and did so, deserve to have their
names, carved in the historical niche of education, for we know
of no other place formed of this nature in the section of which
we are writing. The result is that at this school a young lady
can obtain a course in English language and literature, Latin,
German, French, mathematics, natural science, mental and
moral philosophy, history, medicine and medical attendance,
board, tuition, and calisthenics for the small sum of one hun
dred and fifty-five dollars. The success of the institution
already proves that it is highly appreciated.
Glade Springs does now, and will in the future, derive an
importance from Saltville which, casually looking at, one would
not observe. It is the junction, or virtually the shipping point
from the latter place, on the main line of the Norfolk and
Western. Saltville is eight miles distant, and takes its name
from the salt works located in Washington county, and which
have been in existence for over one hundred years. The brine
from these salt works is stronger in saline matter than that of
any other situated in the United States that we know or have
heard of as yet. The place, with the works, employees' resi
dences, and other dwellings, make a population of some five
hundred people, located on a lovely plateau of some one thou
sand acres of indigenous blue grass.
In 1869 the present company, with W. A. Stuart as presi
dent, and George W. Palmer as secretary and treasurer, was

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 187
organized, a capital stock of $1,000,000 being paid in, and
since then the operations have been on the broadest scale, re
sulting in the employment of over two hundred laborers, clerks,
and mechanics, and an output of ten thousand tons of fine salt,
which is shipped East and South. Such industries as this are
of the most material advantage to any country, and deserve
the highest credit. The prosperity and development of not
¦only the immediately surrounding community, but Glade
Springs as well, is traceable to this source. George W. Palmer,
originally from Syracuse, New York, and W. A. and H. C.
Stuart, of Russell county, have played steady, important parts
in developing this section and giving employment to hundreds
of laborers.
Near this place is the celebrated herd of short-horn registered
cattle belonging to the Palmer-Bowman Company. It is said
to be the largest herd in the world, and great numbers of them
have been shipped to foreign countries as breeding cattle, for
which purpose alone are they sold. The Clydesdale and Den
mark horses of Mr. Palmer's stock farm have gained quite a
reputation for draft and saddle purposes. Saltville, in every
way, is a place of unusual interest, with its salt and plaster
works, its lovely scenery, and splendid turf for grazing, and the
stock farms of Mr. Palmer. It must necessarily have a good
effect upon Glade Springs, and be a potent factor in the devel
opment of all around, into which our inquiry has been espe
cially directed.
In giving an account of the cities and towns of Southwest
Virginia we have of course confined ourselves to those places
1 which so far have aided most materially in the development of
this section, an inquiry into the causes of which has been the
object of this imperfect work. But before closing these sketches
we desire to say a word or two on the subject of these places,
and others which are in this country playing their part, the
description of which we cannot undertake for the want of space,
however much we might desire so to do.
That this whole valley of Southwest Virginia, with its great

188 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
agricultural resources and mineral deposits, is but in its infancy,
is an undeniable fact. All thinking people, business characters,
and foreign capitalists are of the same opinion, and at no far
off future date, in this very section, there will be cities almost
anywhere numbering from five to twenty thousand, and may
be more. In advancing this opinion we are not alone, and we
now quote that of others on this score. George W. Palmer, of
Saltville, who has been living a long time in this section, says
this: "Whoever lives twenty-five years from to-day will see a town from here
(Glade Springs) to Lynchburg, almost as thickly settled as Pennsylvania.
The soil, climate, and mineral wealth are not surpassed by any other country
under the sun; for coal, iron, zinc, lead, gypsum, salt, and copper abound
throughout the section. ' '
This opinion is re-echoed by many of the best people in the
Southwest; nor is the picture an overdrawn pne. The resources
of this section only partially developed are of that character
which warrant these assertions. Lehigh Valley, in Pennsyl
vania, dotted every few miles with towns and cities, is neither
as prolific in natural, agricultural, and mineral resources, nor
blessed with so salubrious a climate, as the Southwest. Then,
with capital and energy pouring in, what is to prevent the
development of our riches and the building of towns as well as
cities? Many gentlemen now residing here are from the min
eral district of Pennsylvania, and all admit the superiority of
this section both as to climate and minerals; so it is but natu
ral to suppose that these places in course of time are obliged to
become cities. One of the best articles which we have ever
seen bearing upon this subject is in the report of the president
and directors of the Virginia Development Company to its
stockholders, made in April, 1890, in speaking of investments
made by that concern. On pages 26 and 27 the language is as
follows :
* * * "It must be borne in mind, also, that in Virginia values of farms
and town lands, with one or two exceptions, have not increased during the
past twenty-five years. The attention of the public had not been generally

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 189
attracted to the great natural advantages of that section (Southwest Virginia)
until within the past six months. During this time there have been very great
activity and increase in values, and large amounts of outside capital have
been invested. The only real foundation for this is the large number of new
industries which are now in course of construction and in prospect. These
new industries have already brought and will continue to bring a large popu
lation to the towns where they are located. The people of Virginia, more
over, who heretofore have lived in towns distant from the railroads, are mov
ing into the new industrial towns, located on lines of railroad, where there is
ample opportunity to invest money advantageously that has been gradually
accumulating and lying idle, or to get work at good wages. All this change
in population justifies an increase in values of real estate at the favorable
places. There are to-day in Southwest Virginia very few towns of 3,000 inhab
itants. There is no reason why there should not be as many towns of from
8,000 to 10,000 inhabitants as in most parts of Pennsylvania, New York, and
New Jersey, and if this district is to become the iron centre which is confi
dently expected, it is only a question of a few years when, to the traveller,
this section will more nearly resemble the active industrial districts of the
North than the quiet farming country he has hitherto seen." * * * *
The italics in the above are our own.
From this will be gathered the fact that Pennsylvanians them
selves are confident that these places will grow to be cities, and
nearly all are supporting that confidence by investing largely
of their capital in the resources of the country to which they
so favorably allude. With the embedded wealth of the country
but in its infancy, upon which the welfare of these places de
pend, we have every right to expect that when the resources
are fully matured that many of them will cease to be towns and
become cities.

PART II.

SHENANDOAH VALLEY

With Sketches of the Principal Towns

ALONG THE LINE OF THE

SHENANDOAH VALLEY RAILROAD.

INTRODUCTION.

AN inquiry into the causes of the growth of this wonderful section of
country will necessarily be much less than the one concerning South
west Virginia, for two reasons : First, two of the causes which played the
same part in the progress of this country that affected Southwest Virginia
have already been discussed — the abolition of slavery and the development
companies ; second, we have no long histories of railroads to detail, as in the
case of Southwest Virginia.
The causes which led to the wonderful growth of this section may be said
to be five, two of which we have previously discussed. The remaining three
are : First, the natural resources of the country — its climate, scenery, agri
cultural productiveness, and mineral wealth ; second, the Shenandoah Valley
railroad ; third, the discovery and opening up of the wonderful Caverns of
Luray and the Grottoes ofthe Shenandoah.
In writing of Shenandoah Valley, it can be readily seen that we will confine
ourselves to those counties through which the Shenandoah Valley railroad
runs, beginning at the West Virginia line, and following the main line until
Front Royal is reached. From there on we follow the south branch ofthe
river until Shendun comes upon the scene, when our labors are ended, after
a sketch of the remaining towns which have been instrumental so far in the
development ofthe Shenandoah Valley.

CHAPTER I.
Territory traversed by the Shenandoah Valley railroad — Early settlers of
this country— Indian warfare— Peace — The growth of the country — The
civil war — This country part of the battle-field during the war — Climate,
scenery, agricultural and mineral resources — Manufacture and cost of
making iron — These natural advantages original cause of the develop
ment ofthe country.
IN the year 1716, Governor Alexander Spotswood pene
trated the Blue Ridge mountains at Swift Run Gap, in
company with his knights of the " Golden Horseshoe,"
and after casting his eyes over the lovely valley of the Shenan
doah, returned, and he is reported as having said : " I have dis
covered God's country."
We can scarcely blame him for this accredited utterance, be
cause whoever casts his eyes upon this exquisitely lovely habita
tion of man feels the same — that so superior is it to the usual
possessions of men in the shape of soil, climate, and scenery that
it does not belong to man, but some supernatural being who
should have the fairest of all the fair earth as his dwelling-
place. There is a sublime beauty in the broad plateau and
gently-rolling hills which charm the eye, while the rugged
mountains in the distance give a variation just sufficient to
break the sameness without destroying a scintilla of its beauty.
The very breezes which softly stir over the land seem laden
with plenty and impregnated with peace and contentment,
while the rays ofthe sun appear to shine with a clearer bright
ness and embody every color of the rainbow. Truly this is a
beautiful land, literally running with milk and honey ; and he
who eould not be happy in Shenandoah Valley would be happy
nowhere. Had Rasselas, Prince of Abyssinia, in his wander
ings reached this country, his restless, perturbed spirit would
have been satisfied, and that charming work of Dr. Samuel
Johnson would never have been written to illustrate the fact —

196 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
we cannot be satisfied on earth, it matters not where we go.
We never seem tired of gazing on this land : the rich, broad
fertile fields of waving grain, or thick, soft grass ; the green
foliage stretching here and there; the meandering streams,
flowing on with an almost musical sound, charm the most
wearied existence into a feeling of peace and produce the im
pression that after all God's world is fair. Such is the face of
flie country which the Shenandoah Valley railroad traverses.
As we have seen before, as early as the year 1734 the count}'
of Orange was formed, and at that period embraced all the
indefinite claims of the Colony of Virginia west of the Blue
Ridge, which included this section of country. In 1738, the
counties of Augusta and Frederick were cut off from Orange,
and this portion west ofthe Blue Ridge in Shenandoah Valley
was included in Frederick. The earliest reliable evidence we
have as to the disposition of land in this country of which we
are writing was the grant to Colonel Carter, in 1730, for sixty-
three thousand acres of land, commencing a short distance
below the forks of the river, running down a little below
Snicker's Ferry, about twenty miles. This land lies in the south
of what is, now known as Clarke county, and was afterwards
owned by Colonel Carter's sons, who derived their title by
devise from their father. Subsequently it was carved into
smaller estates, passing into the hands of the Burwells, Pages,
Nelsons, and others, whose descendants still reside in Clarke
county, and preserve the inimitable prestige of gentle birth,
culture, and refinement possessed by their ancient sires — wor
thy scions of a noble stock.
The next grant of land in the Valley that can be relied upon
was that made by the throne of England, in 1733, to one Jacob
Stover, an enterprising German. This grant was not obtained
by him without some trouble, for then a man was obliged to
have a requisite number of families to settle upon it, which he
did not possess. Being unable to give the governor of Vir
ginia satisfactory evidence on this score, he passed across the
waters to England, and to insure success informed the court

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 197
that he had the requisite number of settlers. He accomplished
this by giving his dogs, horses, cows, hogs, sheep, and mules
human names, and succeeded in persuading the court to direct
the governor to issue his grant for five thousand acres of land
on the south fork of Gerandos (Shenandoah) river* near Messi-
netto creek. On this ancient grant are some ofthe best farms
in Page county, owned by descendants of the early settlers.
The land lying in Clarke county, next to Colonel Carter's
original grant, is the next that we have any evidence of. This
was a body of thirteen thousand acres, which was purchased
by Ralph Wormly, prior to the Revolutionary war, at an auc
tion sale. Wormly bought this when he was excited from
several bottles of port wine, and when he became cool regretted
it extremely, until General Washington consoled him by offer
ing to take the purchase off his hands. It afterwards became
a magnificent estate, and passed from his children's possession,
reaching the ownership of the firm of Castleman & McCormick,
Hierome L. Opie, Esq., Judge Richard E. Parker, and several
'others. This country about Bullskin, Long Marsh, and Spout
Run was settled after the lands near the larger watercourses
and the mountains, and lies in the immediate neighborhood of
that inimitable, charming, and delightful spot over which the
lovely young ladies of Berryville now tread.
The lands upon the south branch of Shenandoah, around
about the western portions of Rockingham and Augusta, were
originally granted to Lord Fairfax. This august personage
was in England on a visit when one Howard arrived there from
the Colony of Virginia with a glorious description of these
lands along the south branch of the Shenandoah. His lord
ship immediately took up a grant of them, which at first he
leased to certain persons, who, on account of the fertility of
the soil, emigrated at once there.
About the year 1736 William Miller and Abraham Hite
settled in the valley about Moorefield, and Miller, becoming
somewhat dissatisfied when the Indian wars broke out, sold
out his interest in five hundred acres of land, and all his horses,

198 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
cattle, and stock for £25, and removed to the south fork of
the Shenandoah river, near the spot where Front Royal now
stands. Historically this is the first eyidence we have of any
settlement of Warren county. Soon afterwards others came
in until the country around there was gradually settled and
cleared up.
About 1740, John Lindsey and James Lindsey, two brothers,
removed from a Northern State, and settled on the Long Marsh,
between Bullskin and Berryville, in what was then the county
of Frederick; and in 1743 Isaac Larue removed from New
Jersey, settling on the same marsh. About this period Chris
topher Beeler removed and settled within two miles of Larue,
while in 1744 Joseph Hampton and two sons came from the
Eastern Shore of Maryland, and located on Buck Marsh, near
Berryville, and dwelt the greater part of the year in a hollow
tree. Finally enclosing a piece of land, they made a crop pre
paratory to the removal of their families. From every satis
factory source that we can gather, these were the first settlers
in and about that portion of Clarke county around Berryville.
From the year 1744 the emigration into the Valley was very
much increased, and, for those times, the country began to be
tolerably thickly settled. People in the lower country, learning
of the fertility of this lovely land, sought homes in it, and en
deavored to make a permanent residence. As a great many
of these settlers were from Pennsylvania, the Indians credited
them with the virtues of the mild Quaker, John Penn, and for
twenty years after the first settlement did not molest any of the
whites. This enabled the settlers to clear lands, accumulate
stock, and make arrangements for a permanent home, since,
having been unmolested so long, they scarcely dreamed of any
trouble with the Indians; but in this they were mistaken, as
we shall now see.
In the year 1753 emisaries from the Indian tribes west of
the AUeghanies invited the Indians in the valley to cross over
the mountains and join them in Ohio. In 1754 the Indians,
in response to this invitation, departed unexpectedly, and all

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 199
left the country east of the Alleghany range. It has never
been definitely stated why these red-skins departed west, but
after a careful investigation upon the subject we are inclined
to think that the Indians west of the AUeghanies were resisting
the encroachments of the settlers over there, and desired assist
ance, for only a year or two after this invitation was extended
the Indians in Shenandoah Valley, we hear of a long series of
massacres and incursions on the part of the Indians west, be
ginning with the Draper's Meadows settlement in Montgomery,
and not ending finally until the memorable battle of Point
Pleasant. The year 1756 opened up by attacks from the In
dians on the inhabitants of Shenandoah Valley, and from that
time on we hear of numerous massacres on the part of the red
skins, in attempting to destroy the settlements of the whites.
This grew out of General Braddock's defeat by the French
and Indians at Pittsburgh. The French had always instigated
the Indians to resist the encroachments of the white settlers
west, and the war between the French and English, which
grew out of a squabble over territory, gave the Indians ample
opportunities to harass the English ; so, when Braddock was
defeated in 1755 at Pittsburgh, the Indians, believing their
friends (the French) to be invulnerable, began to attempt an ex
termination of the settlers and their homes. For ten years —
from 1756 until 1766 — there was a continual feudal warfare
carried on by the Indians and whites, resulting in loss of life
and destruction of property to both races, and the white set
tlers hailed with delight a cessation of hostilities in 1766, which
lasted until 1774, when what was known as Lord Dunmore's
war broke out, an account of which we have already given.
After this latter war the Indians, with the exception of a few
attacks, gradually disappeared, leaving the whites in undis
turbed possession of the soil and their settlements.
Subsequent to hostilities with the Indians the people en
joyed tranquility and repose, and the country settled and in
creased with great rapidity as new settlers from many different
quarters poured in. Some families of distinction came in from

200 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
the lower country, who were the ancestors of the Washingtons,
Willises, Throckmortons, and Whitings. Later on the Lewises
took up their possessions, and the descendants of those old
people still reside in a portion of Jefferson county and Clarke.
The lands taken in the neighborhood of Long Marsh by the
latter people are in the possession of Major H. L. D. Lewis,
Colonel Washington Lewis, Mr. Edward Lewis, and others.
After the Revolutionary war, with which we are so familiar,
the inhabitants of this country increased considerably, and for
nearly one hundred years the entire land enjoyed universal
peace — with the exception of the short war of 1812 — and the
Valley gradually became one of the most productive g,nd ad
vanced portions of Virginia. Great attention was paid to the
cultivation of mind, heart, and manners, which gave the people
decidedly a caste character, especially in the lower part of
Warren and the county of Clarke. Living upon soils which
produced everything that the wants of man could suggest, and
that in the most abundant profusion, they became as independ
ent and sturdy a race of people as could be found anywhere.
As time rolled on and their means increased from the fatness
of the land, they erected finer houses and paid more attention
to the refinements and arts of life, until the whole fabric in a
social way reached a high state of existence. Another thing
which caused some parts of this valley to maintain a set dis
tinct unto itself was the fact that, in a portion, clans, or rela
tions, settled a particular country, and their descendants ques
tioned the rights of outsiders to intrude themselves unless
invited so to do. To give a faithful portrayal of these people
who played such an important part in the subsequent develop
ment of the country, we cannot do better than quote the words
of Mr. John Y. Page, who lived among them, and who is an
intelligent, high-toned gentleman. He says :
"This portion of the Valley (Clarke county) was pretty well settled by a
few family connections, especially in the southern part, in the neighborhood
of Millwood. Under the will of Robert Carter, formerly known as ' King
Carter,' of Lancaster county, Virginia, some fifty-one thousand acres of lands

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 201
were divided among his sons, grandsons, and other relatives. Descended
from these were the Carters, Burwells, Nelsons, Pages, and others, many of
whom are still in the county, and some killed during the war. From this
settlement grew a habit of country life which made the social feature of the
county an admirable one in some respects. They did not care what they
ate, or drank, or wore — the most prominent characteristic being an indiffer
ence to tlie future, with a determination to enjoy the present. Being all
related or connected, they visited and mingled freely in every way — dropping
in to dine, spend the night, or a day or two, without ceremony. A very sin
cere religious feeling prevailed of unquestioned faith, without an inquiry as
to knowledge, showing? itself principally among the females of the families,
while men believed as much as their mothers and wives, but practiced it a
great deal less. The result of all this was a society of families very exclusive
among themselves, and thought by strangers to be two exclusive. This was
the prevailing tone of the Lower Valley socially. Among the older people,
the descendants of whom are still here, are the Lewises, Clagetts, Taylors,
William P. Smiths, the Pages, BOyces, Wheats, Pendletons, Aliens, Carters,
Halls, Nelsons, Whitings, Burwells, Castlemans, McCormicks, Moores, and
many others."
Mr. Page's clear-cut ideas are right, and his conception of
the people in full keeping with their characters, manners, and
customs, which even to this day retain odors of the old habits
and charms which will never wear away. The marked differ
ence between the people of this lower portion of the Valley
and those residing upon the south fork of the Shenandoah, in
Page, Rockingham, and Augusta counties, is completely eluci
dated by Mr. Page's account. Those in the upper part were
settlers of German, Dutch, and Scotch-Irish extraction, who,
being strangers, were different from the English colonist set-,
tiers below, and not so exclusive in the social bond formed
among themselves. The good people of this lovely section,
from one end ofthe Valley to the other, cultivated their estates,
increased in every way, grew well off, and became an independ
ent class, and were as happy on the whole as people could be,
until the flames of a civil war devastated in a great measure
their homes, and, after four years of fighting, left them like
their forefathers, with nothing but the naked soil on which to
contest the battles of life for a daily existence.
During the late war the Valley was a continuous battle-field

202 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
for the contending armies in this section of Virginia, and very
naturally so, too. The agricultural resources were extensive in
every way, and foraging for supplies much easier here than
elsewhere. At Antietam, in Maryland ; Shepherdstown and
CharlestoM'n, in West Virginia ; Berryville, Shenandoah, and
Waynesboro, in Virginia, the artillery played, and human
blood was shed regardless of consequences. It was ine the
county of Clarke that Mosby's force was raised, and they pur
sued their guerrilla warfare, keeping the Yankees in a contin
ual turmoil. This hitherto peaceful country was laid bare,
and when the Confederacy grounded arms at Appomattox, and >
Lee surrendered, these brave men returned to their devastated
homes, with scarcely anything but the native soil, as we have
previously said.
But this was a rich inheritance. Previously, from the coun
ties of Augusta and Frederick had been taken Rockingham,
Page, Warren, and Clarke, the country traversed by the Shen
andoah Valley railroad. These, with Augusta, have no superior
in climate or scenery. The winters are neither extremely cold
nor the summers very hot, for the mountains not only protect
from the chilling winter blasts, but furnish the cool nights so
delightful in July and August. The average mean temperature
campares favorably with the rest of the valley reaching from
New York to East Tennessee, of which this is a part, and
cyclones, storms, and tornadoes are rarely if ever known. The
scenery all along the winding Shenandoah is grand in the ex
treme. Whether we take the rugged mountains in the upper
part, or the level plateaus about Shendun, or the sweeping
vistas around Luray, or the gently-rolling lands of Warren and
Clarke, fringed by mountains, all are beautiful and capable of
satisfying the taste of the most fastidious.
In every way that part of Augusta and Frederick from
which was taken Rockingham, Page, Warren, aud Clarke
composed almost the fairest, if not the largest, part of those
counties. The agricultural and mineral resources of this part of
Shenandoah Valley, from Basic City to the West Virginia line,

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 203
are as fine and varied as those of any county under the canopy
of heaven. All of the cereals — wheat, corn, oats, barley, rye,
and buckwheat — grow in profusion, while as grass lands they
have no superior. The soil is of a chocolate loam, or red clay
in most places, and is unexcelled in productive capacity. The
average yield of wheat is from twenty to forty bushels per acre,
and the planters fallow wheat and small grain after corn with
impunity, which is a severe test as to character and quality of
land. The lands are easily cultivated, and not steep enough to
wash, being, generally speaking, of a rolling character. It is a
great country for stock, and the horses of Shenandoah Valley
command a premium on account of their superiority. Sheep-
raising is a pursuit largely followed, and has proven highly
remunerative, and the cattle are of a superior kind, especially
for dairy purposes. The number of live stock in the counties
of Clarke, Page, Warren, Rockingham, and Augusta are :
26,796 horses, 59,513 cattle, 27,102 sheep, and 42,683 hogs.
This section has the finest agricultural showing of any other
in Virginia, and far exceeds the Southwest in this respect, or
the Tidewater or Piedmont regions. When this wonderful
section is in full bloom with its various productions, nature
itself seems to blush at the profusion and wonder at her own
handiwork. The great waving fields of corn, and wheat, and
oats, and hay present a scene of agricultural wealth which it is
almost impossible to describe — certainly not to be appreciated
properly until seen. Surely, in all productions of the soil,
Shenandoah Valley stands pre-eminently before any section
that we know of or have ever seen.
In addition to the wealth which exists on the surface itself,
the Valley is rich in hidden treasures but lately discovered, in
speaking of which we allude to the mineral resources. These
are found to be in large quantities, and in some places of most
excellent quality. Iron, manganese, umber, ochre, brownstone,
sandstone, fire-brick, and china-clay, limestone, and tin ore
have been discovered all along the Valley, arid pronounced
superior, both as to quality and quantity. In days gone by,

204 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
before the many mineral resources were developed at all, there
were charcoal furnaces about. There is a remnant of one at
Luray, on the north side of the town, which at one time was in
blast. Another was at Milnes, but has been replaced by a
superior coking furnace. And now new furnaces are being
constructed in many places in the Valley to utilize these de
posits of iron ore, and at no place that we know of can lime
stone for fluxing purposes be gotten so cheaply as in this val
ley. The construction of the Washington and Western rail
road, now being surveyed and located, will throw the coal and
coking regions of West Virginia right, at Shenandoah Valley.
The quality of the ores as analyzed are given, in order that
every one may see exactly what is in each county. From Mc
Creath's Mineral Wealth of Virginia we find that the ores from
Clarke analyzed as follows, from ninety-two pieces taken from
A. Mason Moore's property (Mineral Wealth, page 19) :
Metallic iron .  49.875
Phosphorus . . . . ... ... .146
Silicious matter  . 11.430
Phosphorus in 100 parts iron  .292
This is a fair comparison of other analyses made in the same
county. In Warren county an analysis of eighty-five pieces taken
from the Overall property, near the station of the same name,
shows :
Metallic iron . . , ... . 56.375
Phosphorus . ... ... 1.275
Silicious matter ...... .... . 1.890
Phosphorus in 100 parts iron  2.261
— (Mineral Wealth, page 21).
In Page county several analyses of various openings are
given, from which, we select an average sample. Mineral
Wealth, page 23, shows, from an analysis of ore taken from
Rust's property, one hundred and fifty-three pieces :

Metallic iron ...
Metallic manganese . . . .
Phosphorus 
Silicious matter 
Phosphorus in 100 parts iron

50.950 1.455 .442
9.780 .867

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 205
In Rockingham, from Wilmer and Jackson's property, the
following is given, taken from one hundred and forty-five
pieces of clean lump ore :
Metallic iron .... . . . . . . . 50.450
Phosphorus   .217
Silicious matter   14.360
Phosphorus in 100 parts iron  .430
—(Mineral Wealth, page 33.)
In Augusta county, samples from the Cotopaxi Furnace
property yielded on analysis (Mineral Wealth, page 40) :
Metallic iron .... . . . .... 49.400
( Phosphorus  ... . .062
Silicious matter  . 14.260
Phosphorus in 100 parts iron  .125
From the foregoing, it is not difficult to form an idea as to
the quality of the ores. In speaking of this section as a point
for manufacturing iron, the same work from which we have
already quoted, on page 143, says, in allusion to the territory
traversed by the Norfolk and Western and Shenandoah Valley
railroads :
" The advantages which the territory traversed by your several lines of
railroad offers to the iron master may be summed up in a few words : the
ores are abundant and generally of good quality ; they can be economically
mined, for the country in many localities is broken up by numerous ravines,
affording natural openings for mining operations ; most of tlie deposits are
within convenient distance of the railroads, with easy down grades ; the
water supply for either washing ore or for manufacturing purposes is ample
and permanent at all seasons ; limestone for fluxing purposes exists in unlim
ited quantities ; coke of the finest quality for blast furnaces can now be ob
tained at a reasonable cost, and the railroad facilities for reaching markets in
every direction are unusually good, thus forming a combination of favorable
circumstances rarely equalled."
Nor are iron ores the only valuable mineral properties in this
section. The Virginia Manganese Company, near the mouth
of Turk's Gap, in the Blue Ridge, at Crimora, has the most
valuable manganese mines that we know of, and the shipments
run over a thousand tons per month at times. Near Marksville
are the ochre mines belonging to the Oxford Ochre Company,
which ships large quantities of this mineral. In May, 1886,

206 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
the shipments amounted to one hundred and twenty tons,
which shows the amount that is sold. The Virginia Fire-Brick
and China-Clay Company are making over three thousand
brick and washing about eight tons of china-clay per diem,
and at the time this estimate was made the output was expected
to be larger. In mineral resources the Valley is rich, and not
completely developed as yet. The cabinet of minerals dis
played at Basic City, Marksville, Luray, Front Royal, and the
samples seen at Berryville, place the question at rest as to the
ore-bearing territory of this rich agricultural country.
The actual cost of manufacturing iron in Shenandoah Valley
has been practically known for some time, and we furnish a state
ment which was made for Andrew S. McCreath by L. S. Boyer,
secretary of the Shenandoah Iron, Lumber, Mining and Manu
facturing Company, in his official capacity. It is as follows :
COST OF MAKING IRON AT MILNES.
Ore, 2} tons at $2  $4 50
Coke, IJ tons at $4.20  5 25
Limestone  . 30
Labor  1 50
Incidentals  1 00
Total  $12 55
The companies at various places claim that iron can be man
ufactured cheaper than tbe above figures indicate, which may
be true, because the freight upon coke and quality of ore, as
well as cost of labor, might make some little difference; but
this cost is nearly four dollars cheaper than any iron has ever
been manufactured in Pennsylvania. Even in 1884, when the
reduction in fuel and ore took place in that State, the cheapest
estimated cost was $16.01 per ton. This difference necessarily
gives the iron manufacturer a wonderful lever power in Vir
ginia over the one in Pennsylvania. A simple glance at these
facts must clearly demonstrate that Shenandoah Valley will
put on the manufacturer's garb at no long future day, and draw
the same wealth from the bowels of the earth which is yielded
by its surface.

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 207
With these natural advantages, with the agricultural and
mineral resources within its borders, we can readily perceive
that the Valley has all that nature could bestow as a firm foun
dation for its future development. We cannot wonder that it
recuperated rapidly from the effects of the war and improved,
• until 1881, when a progress commenced which has since caused
people everywhere to turn their eyes towards this rich and
lovely county.

CHAPTER II.
The Shenandoah Valley railroad — Organized in 1867— How constructed—
Dates of construction of the various parts of the road — Completion to
Waynesboro Junction — Tripartite agreement between the Shenandoah
Valley railroad, the Norfolk and Western railroad, and the East Tennes
see, Virginia and Georgia, which constituted the Virginia, Tennessee
and Georgia Air Line — Issue of new mortgage by the Shenandoah Valley
Railroad Company — Interest of the Norfolk and Western in this com
pany — Receiver appointed — Purchase of this company by the Norfolk
and Western — Some general remarks as to effect of this purchase upon
Shenandoah Valley. ¦s
THE construction and completion of the Shenandoah Val
ley railroad was a new era for Shenandoah Valley, or
at least that portion of it through which the road ran.
Nearly all the towns along its line seemed to put on a new
life, and grew larger from that date. Railroad facilities meant
the establishment of industries, and as these were most likely
to locate their plants at places where supplies and the like
could be obtained, the values in property at the towns' through
whieh the road ran advanced in price. There is scarcely a
town along the lines of this company that will not tell you
that the first progress of any note occurring within their
borders dated from the time of the construction of this road in
their midst. We are sorry that a full history cannot be given,
owing to the destruction ofthe records by fire at Charlestown,
West Virginia, where the general offices were kept in its ear
lier clays. Many accounts have been given concerning it by
several persons, but in giving the corporate history of these
concerns which have played so important a part in the develop
ment of the country, we desire to use their own reports and
records, or only such extrinsic evidence as bears the truth in
tuitively upon its face.
This company was first organized on February 23, 1867,
under the laws of Maryland, West Virginia, and Virginia, the

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 209
States which it traversed. Notwithstanding the fact that it-
organization dated back so early, twelve years elapsed before
the first forty-two miles were constructed as far as Riverton ; nor
did this become completed until, in the year 1S78 (the same
year in which J. Dickinson Sergeant sent Roane the contract
to sign concerning the New River railroad aud options on min
eral lands), Mr. Frederick J. Kimball became actively engaged
in the construction of it. In December, 1879, the first part to
Riverton was opened up and traffic begun over it ; in Septem
ber, 1SS0. seventy-nine miles more were finished, and on April
18, 1881, the line was completed as far as Waynesboro Junc
tion. It is further known that the road was built partly by
construction companies, partly by private individuals, and
partly by the company itself.
In February, 1881. at the time that the Atlantic, Mississippi
and Ohio railroad was purchased by Clarence H. Clark and his
associates, there were some kind of relations existing between
these gentlemen and the Shenandoah Valley Railroad Com
pany, since in the first annual report, pages 12 and 13, we
find the following announcement :
" The relations between the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company and
the Shenandoah Valley Railroad Company contemplated at the time your
road was purchased and reorganized are still kept in view, and negotiations
are in progress looking to the consolidation and merger of the two corpora
tions so soon as proper legislation can be had. Very favorable results are
anticipated from the completion ofthe connections ofthe two roads at Roan
oke Junction."
That these relations were of the most friendly character there
can be no doubt, and the object of extending the Shenandoah
Valley railroad on to Roanoke was to bring the mineral traffic
from the New River railroad north, and to form a connection
with the East Tennessee, Virginia and Georgia railroad. So
in the latter part of September, 1881, a tripartite agreement
was entered into between the three companies, which secured
to these systems for a term of years a unified general manage
ment, and what is knowu as the Virginia, Tennessee and
Georgia Air-Line burst into view. Work upon the Shenan-

210 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
doah Valle'y railroad was pushed forward, and in June, 1872,
the line was completed to Roanoke, where it connected with
the Norfolk and Western.
On the 15th day of February, 1882, a committee was ap
pointed, by virtue of a resolution of the Board of Directors of
the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company, to consider the
relations existing between the two companies, and to make a
report to the board as early as practicable upon a plan by which
the purposes of the tripartite agreement and traffic contract of
1881 would be more effectually carried out. Under these in
structions the committee proceeded to work, and pending their
action, questions were raised by the Shenandoah Valley rail
road as to the true intent and meaning of certain clauses in the
traffic contract of September 27, 1881, respecting the establish
ment of freight rates and a division of the revenue derived
from this joint arrangement. The Norfolk and Western Com
pany, well knowing the advantages of an all-rail route via
Hagerstown, and fearing this company as a competitor, deter
mined to adjust every difference possible and get control of thev
road if practicable. Yet this must be done on the most ad
vantageous basis for the Norfolk and Western Company, as is
shown in their second annual report, page 21, which says:
' ' Whilst, therefore, in the development of new business your company
would have direct advantages through the interchange of traffic between the
two companies, indirect advantages almost equally important would accrue
through the ability of your company to direct and control the distribution of
through business in such a manner as will earn tlie most money for both com
panies." The only possible means by which the distribution of through
business could be controlled by the Norfolk and Western Rail
road Company was by owning a majority of the shares of the
Shenandoah Valley Company, so the result of the traffic-con
tract investigation by the committee was, the Shenandoah Val
ley railroad mortgaged its line for $2,500,000 for the purpose
of finishing its road to connect with the Norfolk and Western
railroad at Roanoke, and the former company subscribed for

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 211
thirty thousand shares of the common stock of the latter, and
paid this subscription with twenty thousand of its own shares
of stock, virtually giving the Norfolk and Western the control
ling interest in its thirty-seven thousand six hundred and sev
enty-four shares — the total capital stock of the Shenandoah
Valley Railroad Company. In the annual report for 1883 the
Norfolk and Western states, on page 25, that :
"The share value ofthe capital stock of the Shenandoah Valley Railroad
Company is 36,962 shares, of the par value of 100 each, representing $3,696,200,
of which 30,506 shares have been acquired by your company in accordance
with the terms of the contract dated December 29, 1882, and referred to fully
in the last annual report, and which were received in payment of subscrip
tions for 40,506 shares ofthe common stock of your company."
The Norfolk and Western now held a complete controlling
share in the Shenandoah Valley railroad, giving the former the
indirect advantages arising through the ability to direct and
control the distribution of through business between the two
companies — -just what the committee deemed most advantage
ous for the interests of the Norfolk and Western. What was
the actual cost to the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company
to obtain this control ? The second annual report of the Nor
folk and Western railroad, page 25, after setting forth the
traffic contract — the financial bargain and all — says :
"A contract on these terms was executed under the direction of your
board on the 29th of December, 1882, and it is believed that the important
advantages which it contemplates will be secured with but little, if any,
actual cost to this company. "
The report of the Shenandoah Valley railroad for the year
1883 was a very flattering one as to its condition, and so forth.
In accordance with the terms of the contract the Norfolk and
Western agreed to advance it two hundred thousand dollars
per annum, and from this source and from the sale of its bonds
the Shenandoah Valley Railroad Company was enabled, in ad
dition to meeting all its fixed charges, to make many desirable
improvements and pay for rolling stock urgently needed. Its
net income was $192,257.58, and the prospects for another year
much brighter. The result of its operations since it was

212 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
opened on June, 1882, were mentioned as very flattering and
encouraging. But the year 1884 brought a different state of affairs, for the
depression in business and want of traffic so reduced the in
come of the company at the end of the year 1884 that upon
January 1, 1885, default was made in payment of the interest,
and a like result in April and July. The Fidelity Insurance,
Trust, and Safe-Deposit Company, of Philadelphia, being the
trustee of a general mortgage issued to secure the indebtedness
of the company, upon default in payment of its interest, filed
its bill for the appointment of a receiver, which was done by
order of court, and Sidney F. Tyler was appointed to that post,
and duly took charge. The road was operated by the receiver
until October, 1890, when, under decree of court, a. sale was
made, and the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company became
the purchaser of the Shenandoah Valley Railroad Company
for $7,100,000, with all its roadway, equipments, property,
rights, and franchises. Although the company was in the
hands of a receiver for five years, yet that did not affect the
advantages derived from the construction and operation of it
to the country through which it ran, and the towns along its
lines continued to develop.
The purchase of the Shenandoah Valley railroad by the
Norfolk and Western has already had a good effect along the
line ofthe former company. The developing policy of the Nor
folk and Western, and its interest in the general welfare and
progress of the towns and country along its route, cause these
to hail its advent with delight, and there was a general spirit
of joy pervading Shenandoah Valley when it was announced
that the road through tbe Valley had been purchased by the
Norfolk and Western. Already many enterprises are spring
ing up and industries coming in, feeling a spirit of confidence
in their future since this company, which has done so much
materially for the Southwest, has charge. The connection of
the Washington and Western railroad — now being located —
with the Shenandoah Valley branch in this country not onlj

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 213
' secures a long-coveted entrance into Washington by the Nor
folk and Western railroad, but will give a new impetus to the
whole country, and be of infinite advantage to the connecting
point. The charter of the former road further gives power
and authority to this company to locate, construct, and equip
a railroad from some point on the Shenandoah Valley railroad
into the coal regions of West Virginia, which road will be of
more importance to the iron interests of the Valley than can
be well calculated, as it will place the coking fields almost at
the feet of Shenandoah Valley. In all pf these undertakings
the people will be glad to know that the Norfolk and Western
is the prime moving power, so gteat is its effect upon the coun
try through which it passes.
The whole country traversed by the Shenandoah branch of
the Norfolk and Western company is one capable of the high
est state of development. The road starts from Hagerstown,
Maryland, connecting there with the Cumberland Valley road
for Philadelphia and points North, and with the Western Mary
land for Baltimore. Coming south, it passes the lovely rich
valley bordering the Potomac ; crossing into West Virginia, it
connects with the main line of the Baltimore and Ohio at Shen
andoah Junction, pursuing then its line through the charming
Shenandoah Valley by Charlestown, Berryville, Front Royal,
Luray, Shenandoah, and Basic City, terminating its route at
Roanoke city, a distance of 239.3 miles through as productive
and beautiful a country as ever th$ sun shone upon. This road
has been most beneficial in its results towards developing the
whole section, and all along the line people acknowledge it.
Notwithstanding the fact that the road was placed in the
hands of a receiver, it has been a great success, and has cer
tainly been' conducted well under the management of D. W.
Flickwir, superintendent, and 0. Howard Royer, general pas
senger and freight agent. Its equipment is good and the ser
vice all that could be desired. Had the road been opened up
in the past four years, and not when it was — during a period of
depression — it would never have passed, into the hands of a re-

214 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
ceiver, but would have met its liabilities promptly. Within
the past four years there has been a marvellous increase in the
passenger and freight traffic. There is no doubt that it has
played a very important part in not only the development of
Shenandoah Valley, but Southwest Virginia as .well.

CHAPTER III.
Effect of the wonderful Caverns of Luray upon Shenandoah Valley —Luray —
Derivation of its name — Its gradual growth — Discovery of the caverns
by B. P. Stebbins, Andrew J. Campbell, and W. B. Campbell — Purchase
of Cave Hill by these parties — Litigation over the same— Decision ofthe
supreme court against the purchasers — Sale of the property to a Northern
syndicate — Description of the caverns — Advent of Shenandoah Valley
railroad — The Defoard tannery— Rapid growth of Luray— The Valley
Land and Improvement Company — Manufactories and industries of the
town — Population, schools, and churches — Luray Inn — General remarks
upon the place.
THE discovery and opening up of the Caverns of Luray
and the Grottoes of the Shenandoah had such a marked
effect upon the development of Shenandoah Valley that
they maybe assigned as one ofthe causes of its recent growth.
In giving an account of these wonderful underground passages,
we deem it but just to also give a sketch ofthe town of Luray,
now one of the most important points along the line of the
Shenandoah Valley railroad, or in this charming valley of
which we have been writing.
Luray is situated directly on this railroad, in Page county,
one hundred and fifty miles from Roanoke and eighty-nine
from Hagerstown, Maryland, in the middle of the charming
Luray Valley, celebrated for its beauty of scenery, salubrious
climate, rich agricultural lands, and mineral resources. Ever
since the formation of the county of Page, in 1831, the place
has been the county-seat, and is an old town. The general
impression that it takes its name from Lorraine, a French set
tler, is erroneous, for, after a patient investigation, the extrinsic
evidence, as well as internal facts, substantiate the position
taken by Judge Alexander Y. Brand, who states that its name
was taken from that of one Lewis Ramey. This latter person
was one of the oldest settlers in the county, and the log cabin
in which he resided was located at what is now the corner of

216 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
Main and. Court streets. He was called Lew Ramey; then, for
contraction, was spoken of as Lew Ray, from which source of
sound the name of Luray is undoubtedly derived.
From 1831 the town, as a county-seat and a kind of trading
centre for the valley of its name, gradually increased, deriving
its support from the surrounding agricultural productions and
profits from the sale of its wares, until, in 1869, the place had
some five hundred people. From this on the progress was still
scarcely perceptible ; for in 1878, almost ten years afterwards,
there were only about six hundred and forty-two people, pur
suing the even tenor of their way, not dreaming of the won
derful revolution through which their quiet place would go in
the next succeeding ten years. On August 13, 1878, the won
derful caverns were discovered, which subsequently played
such an important part in this whole section of country by
drawing visitors from all parts of the country and giving every
thing an impetus never before known at Luray.
It was due to the efforts of B. P. Stebbins, Andrew W.
Campbell, and W. B. Campbell that the caverns were first dis
covered. B. P. Stebbins, a photographer, who came to Luray
in 1878, from certain external indications became satisfied that
caverns were somewhere in the vicinity, and persuaded the
Campbells to join him in the search. This " cave company,"
as it was jocularly termed, was subject to much ridicule from
the people of the town. They were called "cave rats" and
" searchers after mares' nests"; but, nothing daunted, they con
tinued their explorations until, on the date above mentioned,
their labors were crowned with success, and A. J. Campbell
was lowered by means of a rope into what is known now as
Entrance Hall. This discovery was fully appreciated by the
parties, for that night they returned with candles and explored
Stebbins Avenue, Entrance Hall, and Entrance Avenue as far
as the lake, which then prevented a farther insight into the
most wonderful parts, which were first seen after the lake was
drained. At the very time of this discovery proceedings were
pending in the circuit court of Page by creditors against the

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 217
bankrupt estate of Samuel Bueracher, and, in 1878, Cave Hill,
¦containing twenty-eight and one-half acres, was sold, and
Messrs. Stebbins and Campbell became the purchasers at a price
considered extremely high for the land. Their discovery had
been not only concealed, but every means to prevent discovery
used, by placing brush, earth, and rubbish over the entrance
of this cavern after their exploration that night. A few days
subsequently, however, the town was startled and astonished
at the news that a wonderful cave had been found. The com
motion and excitement was intense, and on learning the nature
and value of the property sold the relatives of the original
owners instituted suit for its recovery. The lower court sus
tained the sale to Stebbins and the Campbells; but, in 1881,
the supreme court set it aside on the ground of fraud, and
there was another sale, at which W. T. Briedler, a son-in-law
of Samuel Bueracher, purchased the property, afterwards dis
posing of it to the Luray Cave and Hotel Company, a syndi
cate from Philadelphia. From this on Luray began to
improve, when the caverns were opened up and the inn
erected, which has won since such an enviable reputation as a
hostelry. Owing to the importance of these caverns a description of
them may not be amiss, for it is acknowledged by all that in
the way of cave scenery they are fully equal to the Grottoes of
the Shenandoah, and superior to any other known underground
passages. Subterraneous passages are one thing, but it is quite
another to have them beautifully and richly decorated with
exquisitely formed growths of stalactites and stalagmites, com
posing columns, figures, folds, draperies, and statues, illus
trating the fact that eaves are common anywhere, but beau
tiful caverns rare. Large caverns are found in limestone
regions only, and a cave is but an underground valley caused
by erosion — a gorge or ravine roofed over with stone — a repe
tition under a lightless sky of limestone formations above the
earth on its surface. Luray Caverns are a system of large
ravines, such as Entrance Hall, Entrance and Stonewall ave- ,

218 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
nues, Pluto's Chasm, Giant's Hall and its ramifications, which
are the dominating lines.
As we have stated, these cavities are formed by erosion.
With carbonic acid as an active agent, and water as a carrier,
we are able to account for the disappearance of strata, however
thick either above or below ground. Above, the result is a
lowering of the general level and formation of valleys, where
causes favor the disintegration of stone. " Hard" water flows
away, and a clay soil is left behind. Below ground, the result
is a cave, if there be a vertical fissure in the strata through
which the water charged with carbonic acid makes its descent.
In course of time these fissures are worn larger, and the water
entering forms pools, which by and by causes disintegration of
the softer horizontal strata with which it comes in contact,
and, finding an exit at last, bears away the minerals little by
little, leaving the clay behind to cause the adventurous cave-
hunter no end of annoyance. Wherefore, it is not incorrect
to assert that a cave is a fissure widened by the combined action
of carbonic acid and water disintegrating and carrying away
the softer strata around. But how about the lovely cave forma
tions which appear so weird and sublime that it is but natural
to suppose they were made by hobgoblins or ghosts, or some
supernatural agency? Nature created them, too, but from a
mere view of them it appears as if she not only set aside her own
code of laws, but defied those of all gravitation as well. The
folds and drapery; the figures, some lovely, some grotesque;
the curtains, frozen cascades, columns, shields, fish, and many
other representations are the result of the stalactite formations
on the roof and the stalagmite on the floor of the cavity, with
the lateral or helictite growth from the sides. These come to
gether in every imaginable shape and form, producing pictures
of beauty and sublimity impossible to conceive unless seen.
These stalactites are made from the water percolating through
strata of limestone above, which, being charged with carbonic
acid, on reaching the ceiling evaporates, leaving the carbon of
lime, which, otf account of the continued dripping of the water,

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 219
gradually forms the hanging stalactite. At first this has a
minute tube through which the water trickles, but which be
comes closed after a while from deposits of carbon of lime ;
then the water drips down on the outside of this formation,
leaving the same deposits we have named, becoming in the
course of ages much larger. The drops of water which perco
late with force enough to leave the ceiling reach the floor and
build up the stalagmite, which often joins the stalactite above,
forming the columns and drapery which we see. Some of
these formations are white and others of a brown color, which
difference some geologists explain by stating that age causes
the discoloration ; but this theory will not do, for there are sta
lactites and helictites scarcely half an inch long which are
brown, proving that age has nothing to do with it. The dif
ference in color comes from the fact that when the water per
colates through the pure limestone untouched by oxide of iron
or clay, the pure carbon of lime is made, which is perfectly
white. Whether we visit Entrance Hall, the Amphitheatre,
the Fish Market, Elfin Ramble, Pluto's Chasm, the Crystal
Spring, the Mermaid, the Cascade, the Ladies' Toilet Table,
Giants' Hall, Proserpine's Column, the Grotto of Oberon, the
Bridal Chamber, the Fallen Column, the Cathedral, the Organ,
the Bail-Room, and other points of interest in the Caverns of
Luray, we find everywhere these beautiful, exquisite, and super
natural formations which cause one to feel as if he was in the
realms of ghosts, gnomes, and fairies, who flee when the flood
of brilliant electric light is poured into this grand region. To
go through these caverns is well worth a trip across the Atlan
tic ocean. The entrance to them is but a short distance from
the inn, and conveyances are- always on hand to carry visitors
over. Good, stout shoes are all that is needed in the way of
foot-gear, and no extra raps, as the temperature is always
pleasant and the same.
The discovery, of these caverns and the advent ofthe Shenan
doah Valley railroad gave the town of Luray an impetus that
stimulated the place into immediate growth almost. In Septem-

220 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
ber, 1881, the inn was constructed, and cement walks and electric
lights placed in the caverns, and the continued increasing
number of visitors caused Luray to be known from home, and
its many attractions, natural advantages, and agricultural re
sources led people to look at the town in other lights than as
the resort for visitors to the caverns. The timber district
around drew in a manufacturing plant, which is the largest of
any that we know of in this section, or in Southwest Virginia,
except the Roanoke Machine Works. We allude to Defoard's
huge bark-grinding company and tannery combined, which
has a capital of $800,000 employed in its operations, and works
about two hundred and fifty men in the tannery and bark
works also. The pay-roll amounts to some $40,000 per month,
a greater part of which is spent in the town. The result of
this was, the place grew rapidly, and with other plants that
came the town increased to about twenty-five hundred people
by the year 1888 or early in 1890. It became also quite a
-centre for education, several schools being located there.
While Luray was improving by reason of the resources we
have named, others began to be developed in the vicinity of
the town in the shape of a variety of minerals, such as iron
ore, zinc, lead, ochre, slate, and copper, samples of which are
in the cabinet of minerals belonging to the development com
pany there. Owing to the naturally fine agricultural resources
and the varieties of minerals found, an organization was formed
in 1890 for the development of these resources, as well as those of
the place, called the Valley Land and Improvement Company,
with an authorized capital stock of $2,000,000, a great deal of
which was at once taken, and D. F. Kagey, from one of the
oldest families in the county, was made president, with C. G.
Marshall, from Uniontown, Pa., as vice-president and gen
eral manager. This company purchased the caverns, inn, and
all the land surrounding the town, and considerable bodies of
fine timber and mineral lands in addition. This concern in
augurated a spirit of material progress for the place which
resulted in marked improvement almost immediately. Sev-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 221
eral valuable manufacturing plants were secured through
the patriotism and public-spirited policy of the company that
enhanced the values in Luray at once. The financiering qual
ities of D. F. Kagey, with C. G. Marshall's knowledge of min
erals and ores gained in Pennsylvania, inspired a confidence in
the public which greatly assisted the company in carrying out
its various undertakings for the benefit of Luray. Now the
place is quite a manufacturing centre, with its tannery, Luray
Manufacturing Company, wagon works, flouring mills, cigar
factory, and several other minor undertakings. Commercially,
the town is upon a good basis, having a trade that has always
branched out very considerably into the surrounding country,
and every possible care is taken by the merchants to foster the
same. The policy of the Valley Land and Improvement Company
is not only a liberal one, but very conservative where the inter
ests of the town are concerned. C. G. Marshall's wrestles with
miners in Pennsylvania, among whom he battled, not only gave
him a good physical training, but placed ideas in his head of
the fitness and conservativeness of men and things which have
been of immense value in conducting the affairs of the com
pany. While he is willing always to give every possible in
ducement to industries, in the way of subscription, donation of
lots and free sites, he is not going to start an enterprise, place
an outsider at the head of it, and say : " Look what we have
brought in ! " '
The result is, what Luray has it has, and if employees and
pay-rolls are taken as an evidence of manufacturing power, we
know of no place superior to Luray on the line of this railroad.
The company ha's some two thousand five hundred acres in
town lots and eight thousand acres in mineral lands, which
sooner or later will be the foundation of considerable manufac
turing power at this place.
The Mountain Park Springs Company, headed by Walter
Campbell and Judge Alexander Y. Brand, is not less unique
than worthy in the purpose of its organization. The concern

222 SOUTHAVEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
has a capital stock of $50,000, and has purchased a lovely moun
tain site not far from Luray, where a neat, commodious hotel will
be erected, with a number of cottages, for the purpose of furnish
ing a summer resort to people of limited means who are not
able to pay the higher prices. All success should attend every
undertaking inaugurated to relieve the ills of humanity, whether
of a mental, moral, physical, or pecuniary nature. No man is
more capable of conducting the enterprise properly than Judge
Brand, a gentleman of humane temperament, genial, kind man
ners, and a fund of anecdote and pleasantry only acquired by
having seen much of humanity through the glasses of kindness
of heart and charity which so few people wear in this day and
generation. We cannot doubt that the liberal support which
this company will have will make it a complete success.
The population of Luray amounts to about 2,500 people —
may be more now — and is composed of a fine class of upright,
sober, and, in the main, refined people. The influence of the
schools over the town is easily seen, and some artistic talent
resides in and around Luray, which is being highly cultivated.
The schools, of which there are several here, advance the town
in every way, for many of the pupils are boarders from a dis
tance, and their means are more or less expended in Luray. .
The Von Bara College is a good institution, capable of accom
modating some seventy or eighty pupils, and is always filled.
It is under the management of J. I. Miller, a gentleman of
varied experience and much culture. The Luray Female Insti
tute for young ladies, on account of the homelike appearance
and neatness of the school, the sweet, airy, pleasant rooms,
often filled with flowers, the unity existing among the pupils
and teachers, the high grade of its curriculum and scholarship,
the refined, honorable treatment given the pupils and ideas of
honor instilled in them, is one of the best places for the training
and education of female minds and character that we know of.
From high intellectual cultivation to Christianity is but a step,
and, therefore, Luray, with the influence of such schools as Mr.
Miller's and Professor Hargrove's, is a church-going, religious

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 223
place. The Episcopal, Presbyterian, Lutheran, Methodist, and
Baptist all have their religious houses, where divine worship is
held every Sabbath, and the attendance invariably good.
i It would not be justice to Luray to close this sketch without
some description ofthe inn there under the incomparable man
agement of Mr. Freeman, which has done much towards the
development of the town and given so many strangers a pleas
ant, never-to-be-forgotten impression of Shenandoah Valley.
Whether we take the inn from the railroad, or glance at it from
the town, the eye meets a view which satisfies every craving of
the human sense in the way of sight, taste, and beauty. It
is situated upon an eminence approached by a well-laid walk
way, amid soft, cool-looking grass turf, flower parterres, shrub
bery, and rare plants. The building is constructed in Queen
Anne style, the lower portion being of stone and the upper part
of ornamental wood work, shingled down to the stone. An
annex has been added, giving this structure accommodation
for four hundred people, while a vine-covered piazza fronts
the entire length." The appointments, cuisine, and service are
all that can b'e desired, and everything is conducted on a home
like principle which robs the entire establishment of that sting
of hotel publicity so often unbearable. All ofthe surroundings,
from the pages seated in the office to the damask curtains, sug
gest ease, comfort, refinement, and culture, and the very acme
of human existence physically can be obtained at this charming
retreat, while socially it is always delightful, from the artistic
touches of Colonel Lee's sketching pencil to the young ladies
who waltz in the air of Luray Inn, always ladened with culture
and elegance. It is a credit to the place and a delight to visi
tors who come in quest of pleasure.
Taking the place as a whole, with its many advantages and
resources — both in an agricultural and mineral sense — its won
derful caverns, its scenery and admirable climate, its educa
tional facilities and Christian principles, its beautiful surrounding
country, we feel safe in saying that its future as the " Saratoga
of the' South " and a manufacturing town can scarcely be con
troverted, although by some enemies it may be denied.

CHAPTER IV.
Shenandoah — Formerly Milnes — Centre of a mineral region — Some of its
advantages — The railroad shops — An iron-manufacturing point — The
furnaces — Its advantages as a divisional point — The Shenandoah Land
and Improvement Company — Capitalists connected with it — Something
as to the future of the place — The Grottoes ofthe Shenandoah — Weyer's
Cave — Fountain's Cave — Madison's Cave — The place now called Shen-
dun — The Grottoes Company — Jed. Hotchkiss — Improvements made
there— Its future as a business centre and summer resort.
GOING south from Luray we pass several stations, and
after travelling some sixteen miles reach Shenandoah,
a divisional point between Hagerstown and Roanoke,
where shops of the company, as well as divisional offices, are
located. This place lies in Page county, almost on the borders
of Rockingham, and is one hundred and seven miles south of
Hagerstown, and one hundred and thirty-two miles from
Roanoke. It is located in a fine agricultural region, and sur
rounded by bodies of unusually valuable timbered lands. For
merly the town was called Milnes, taking its name from the
Milnes who was at one time actively connected with the con
struction of the Shenandoah Valley railroad. The town is
situated in one of the finest mineral regions in the Valley, and
for a number of years has been an iron-manufacturing place,
formerly engaged in making iron when its charcoal furnace
was in blast. The ores (iron), of which we have already given
an analysis, are remarkably fine, and from these banks the
charcoal furnace drew its supply, as well as the coke furnace
Completed seven or eight years ago.
The advantages which Shenandoah has are manifest in every
way. Immediately adjacent to it are immense tracts of land
known to be very rich in iron, manganese, copper, and lead
ores of the best character, together with asbestos, slates, ochres,
fire-clays, and limestone of the best quality. Vast bodies of

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 225
the best timber lands are here, and furnish in almost endless
quantity the very best of oak, hickory, poplar, ash, maple, wal
nut, birch, chestnut, and pine, which answer equally as well for
manufacturing as for decorative purposes; and near here is
also found au abundance of bark for tanning purposes, thou
sands of tons being shipped annually within a radius of five
miles from around Shenandoah. On account of which advan
tages in the way of timber it can be readily seen that a bet
ter point could not be selected for manufactories of various
kinds of woodenware. A finer agricultural region from which
a city could draw its supplies does not exist than that around
this place, for the lands are noted for their versatility of pro
ductions, as well as rich productiveness. And not the least of
Shenandoah's advantages is the prospect of the place being at
no great future day a railroad centre. The terminus of the
Washington and Western railroad will doubtless be here, while
the road projected from Ceredo to Quantico is most certain to
pass this way. If such reasonable hopes are fulfilled, then
Shenandoah can point with pride to her northern, southern,
eastern, and western outlets.
The fact that Shenandoah was made a divisional point, and
the shops and round-houses erected there, was the cause of the
growth of Milnes, afterwards called Shenandoah. As the rail
road has some permanent interest at this point, it is but natu
ral that they will do all in their power to promote the interest
of the place and enhance its value in every way. Already
these shops have been long in operation, and employ a large
force of hauds in the repairing of engines and ou the yard,
while the employees in the offices are there, too, both going far
towards swelling the pay-roll to that amount which is doubtless
of great assistance to the town. It is further claimed, too, by
the people of Shenandoah that these shops will be enlarged
now that the Norfolk and Western Railroad Company has
gained possession of the Shenandoah Valley railroad — a claim
which is not without hope and reason.
For some years past this place has been quite an iron-manu-

226 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
facturing point. The Shenandoah Iron Works had some repu
tation even before the erection of the Gem furnace, which uses
coke instead of charcoal. The former iron works consisted of
a charcoal blast furnace with a stack 33x8|, with Player hot-
blast attachment, a forge and refinery, all of which had the'
capacity to turn out some sixty tons a week of warm-blast
charcoal iron, which was worked up into blooms at the com
pany's forge. These works were situated about five miles from
the station on Naked creek, at the end ofthe branch road from
Shenandoah. Prior to 1883 the new coke furnace known as
the " Gem," with a 70x16 stack, and a producing capacity of
seventy to eighty tons of iron per diem, was built, and during
the years of 1883 and 1884, up to February, its output was
16,585 tons of foundry and forge iron. The above was really
the product of a ten months' run, as two months were taken in
repairing the old hot-blast stoves. The iron from these works
has been shipped to Harrisburg, Philadelphia, and Baltimore
markets, and gave universal satisfaction on account of its
purity and character. The following analysis of a bloom fully
substantiates this claim :
Carbon. , ... . . .042
Silicon ... . .008
Sulphur   . .001
Phosphorus ... . . .074
Manganese ... . .003
Iron by difference . . . . . 99.872
The advantages derived by the place from being a divisional
point can be readily appreciated. In the first place it caused
the erection of the shops there, and brought in a certain num
ber of people whose interests became more or less identified
with the place. The natural development and increase of every
kind of resource in this wonderful country will necessarily
create a demand for increased railway facilities, which upon its
face means an enlargement of the railroad plant there. The
capitalists and officials of the railroad company being inter
ested, have taken stock in the future of the place, and the re
sult waB that on May 9, 1890, a development company was

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 227
organized which having already a good nucleus for a town
proceeded to develop it.
The Shenandoah Land and Improvement Company, organ
ized with a capital stock of $300,000, has C. Powell Nolan as
president and J. F. Wheelwright as secretary. The formation
of this developing scheme is fraught with more than ordinary
meaning, on account of the persons who are interested in it.
These men are : F. J. Kimball, president of the Norfolk and
Western Railroad Company; Jas. Sands, general manager of
the same; D. W. Flickwir, superintendent of the Shenandoah
Valley Railroad Company; Mr. McDowell, Mr. Armes, Mr.
Robinson, Clarence H. Clark, and P. L. Terry. There is no
doubt of the fact that these gentlemen have it in their power
to either make or unmake towns at present, and if they are
greatly interested in Shenandoah then the natural and logical
consequence is that it will soon grow beyond the dimensions
of a town. This company, which has some seven hundred
acres of land in and adjacent to the place, is offering every
possible inducement to manufacturers to locate, and have some
lovely residence sites situated on a commanding, rolling emi
nence. The business and manufacturing lots, which are donated
free, lie upon the river, which is capable of furnishing all neces
sary water power. Through the ingenuity of the company
the manufacturing plants which locate there are exempt from
all municipal taxation, and a perfect system of gas and water
works has been inaugurated, without which every town is more
or less imperfect. Every conservative, prudent step possible is
being taken by this company for the future development of the
place. The outlook for the place is undoubtedly bright. The fur
nace company intends enlarging its plant, and already a pay
roll of $20,000 is monthly distributed among the railroad
employees and furnace men, the latter of whom, including the
, quarrying men, now make some three hundred and fifty em
ployees, who, together with their families and other citizens,
number some eighteen hundred people, and may be more.

228 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
On the most careful, painstaking grounds, one would not err
in predicting that Shenandoah will in course of time become a
city of no small dimensions.
Grottoes of the Shenandoah.
Leaving Shenandoah, and proceeding southward again, we
pass Elkton and Port Republic. At the latter place, in June,
1862, one of the hardest-fought battles took place that was en
gaged in during the war, and of which General Jackson said :
"The dead seemed to be more numerous than the living."
Two miles south of this place we come to the most beautiful
spot in all Shenandoah Valley — Shendun, or what was for
merly called the " Grottoes of the Shenandoah," which really
means Weyer's, Fountain's, and Madison's caves.
The town of Shendun, comparatively speaking, is a new
place, and occupies that broad, sweeping plateau south of Port
Republic. The natural location of the place is beautiful in the
extreme. The level plane, stretching away for miles to the river
on one hand and the mountains on the other, presents a site
for a city as perfect as heart could desire; the blue outline of
the mountains, looking north, with the green tint of those to
the west, give a relief to the monotony of the plane without
infringing upon its beauty; while the whole view presents a
panorama of scenic loveliness that is almost indescribable, yet
so pleasingly perceptible to the sense of sight. The station-
house, hotel, and even real estate offices, seem to be inoculated
with this beauty, and look differently from other buildings.
The walk stretching away to the footbridge across the winding
Shenandoah to the mountain containing the caverns looks like
the footpath of fairies, who wend their way back and forth
between the broad, lovely plateau and the weird, grand scenery
underground ; while the road ascending to the entrance of
Weyer's Cave reflects the white and blue tints of cave marble
and limestone. The eye never grows tired of resting upon this
view, whieh is as startling and sublime after it has been seen
for a dozen times as when first gazed upon.
The Grottoes of the Shenandoah would make Shendun a

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 229
place of resort and residence if there was not another attractive
feature connected with the place. Already they have been in
strumental in drawing thousands of people to the town, and
Avill continue to increase in number as the beauty and gran
deur of the caverns are made known. In many respects they
are superior in cave scenery to any others that we have ever
seen or heard of. While the Caverns of Luray are larger than
these, and while the stalactites and stalagmites of the former
are on a more massive scale than those of the latter, yet in
Weyer's Cave there is a delicacy of texture in the formations and
a purity in the whiteness of the carbon of lime which Luray
does not possess. In passing through many of the apartments
in Weyer's Cave we imagine that a class of elfins, fairies, and
gnomes created these lovely, delicate draperies and folds, whose
artistic touch was much more refined and cultured than those
who carved the heavier but grander figures of Luray. From
the entrance to the Pantheon, in passing through the Sentinel
Chamber, Solomon's Temple, the Tapestried Chamber, the
Armory, the Ball-room, the Senate Chamber, Robbers' Cave,
Cathedral Hall, Lady Washington's Hall, Iceberg Hall, Glacier
Hall, the Bridal Chamber, the Garden of Eden, the Canons,
the Pantheon, the scenery is exquisitely beautiful, from the
heavily suspended shields to the delicately white folds of the
drapery. One visit serves but to bewilder, two to delight, three
to intoxicate, and half a dozen to take in or understand one-half
of nature's wonders buried beneath the rugged soil of the over
hanging mountain. And when you visit Weyer's Cave put
yourself under Mr. Mohler's care, whose knowledge and inge
nuity in unwinding the cause of these curious formations is
beyond that of any geologist that has ever explained yet. Some
of these apartments are wonderfully natural. Take the Bridal
Chamber. This is about 60x40 and has numerous fissures open-
ins: into darkness all around. The old Tuck Comb is made of
a stalagmite, while the Bridal Veil, hanging almost to the floor,
is a stalactite of the most curious form and delicacy. Both comb
and veil are natural, and have that appearance which impresses

230 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
one as exquisite^ pieces of carving. To the left of the veil is a •
piece of statuary on a pedestal some six feet square, which is
unique in appearance, while in front of the comb and veil is a
couch with the recumbent figure of the bride resting peace
fully, making the whole very natural in every way.
Nor is the Tapestried Chamber less remarkable. It is lovely
in the .extreme. The size is about 100x50 feet, and has every
variety of formation, from the thinnest fold and drapery to
the largest column. The fringed canopy hanging from the
ceiling is one of the most peculiar sights one" meets with, the
upper fringe being white, while the lower is dark. Curtains
and draperies hang midway between the ceiling and floor, in
every conceivable variety of folds, from the most delicate wafer
to the thickness of an inch. There is a hanging formation in
this apartment like a chandelier with electric lights upon it,
while in the shaded darkness of the distance folds of drapery
and curtains can be seen until they fade away into unfathom
able blackness. Here, on one side, is a perfectly-shaped stage-
curtain, about eighteen feet high and twelve feet wide, the
lower part being looped and drawn aside, while the dark
shadows in the background distinctly recall to mind an un-
lighted stage.
One of the most unique and inexplicable passages among
these wonders is the Armory. Ajax's shield is as perfect a
representation of the real article as if it had been carved. It
does not hang perpendicularly from the ceiling, but juts out*
at an angle of forty-five degrees. It is about five feet long
and three and a half wide, with an edge about a quarter of
an inch in thickness, while the base is some four inches.
This peculiar freak, in its lateral extension straight out, with -
out support, defies all laws of gravitation, and causes us to
wonder how many mischievous elfins it took to play such a
prank with nature. In this armory is a column some three
feet high, leaning northward at an angle of some thirty-two and
a half degrees, the solution of which is that this leaning was
produced by the floor lowering itself. The cascade of frozen '

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 231
icicles, of purest white, presents another interesting feature in
this apartment which is well worth seeing.
From beginning to end of this whole cavern the same bril
liant, incomparable scenery is presented, and when we reach
Cathedrall Hall, with its perfect representation of priest and
altar, our admiration turns to awe, and we wonder why the
Supreme Being should ever have given his handiwork to the
creation of such things if, as the Protestants say, in them lie
eternal damnation. The electric lights shining upon the altar
are exact reproductions of the candles, and the statue in front
the living image of a priest in his vestments ready for high mass.
This hall eclipses anything in the way of cave scenery that is
imaginable, and is some two hundred feet in length by forty in
width. These chambers, in and out, with their beautiful decorative
hangings, are well worth a trip across the continent to see; and
Fountain's Cave, just opened up, is equally as weird and sublime
in scenery. Near here is Madison's Cave, of which Thomas*
Jefferson made a diagram, and Avhich is far inferior to the
other two in the way of cave scenery. Throughout Weyer's
Cave the floor is perfectly dry and the temperature delightful;
nor do we know of any spot in which two or three days can
be spent with so much benefit and pleasure as in this place.
In addition to these beautiful natural productions in the way
of over and underground scenery, Shendun has other resources,
which are being developed and opened up by the capital and
energy of the best citizens in the land, among whom may be /
mentioned Jed. Hotchkiss, the Catletts, the Bells, J. H. Bram
well, A. D. Wright, and others. In May, 1890, the Grottoes
Company was organized with a capital stock of $3,000,000, with
Jed. Hotchkiss as president. This gentleman is better known
as the author ofthe " Virginias " and other productions, which,
on account of their statistical information and topographical
descriptions, have not only given him an enviable reputation,
but conferred a positive benefit upon Virginia. He has made
all this section a particular study, and understands the variety

232 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
of resources and geological formations of the country with a
minuteness almost puzzling. Mainly through his instrumen
tality the company was formed and purchased some thirty
thousand acres of land, including mineral and timber, city site,
and farm and park lands, lying within a boundary surrounding
Shendun, formerly the Grottoes ofthe Shenandoah. The analy
ses made by Andrew S. McCreath, in his " Mineral Wealth of
Virginia," from samples of ore gotten from this property, yielded
from 43.700 to 46.200 per cent, of metallic iron ; 0.124 to 0.242
of phosphorus. There are two grades of this ore, the lower
being a red kidney ore found in a separate stratum, while the
larger proportion of it is a rich limonite that, properly sorted,
can be counted on for 50 per cent, of metallic iron. This
company owns the Mount Vernon Iron-Works property, the
great ore ranges of the Blue Ridge, and vast bodies of the
finest timber lands in that section of the country. About one
hundred and eighty blocks of city lots have been laid off by
the company, located ou the lovely plateau to which we have
already alluded.
The result of this energy and capital has already impressed
itself upon the place, for buildings and business plants are
springiug up all around. The Grottoes Hotel, kept by A. D.
Wright, one of the most enterprising gentlemen in those parts,
is a gem in every way, with appointments, cuisine, and a ser
vice second to none. A large plumbing concern, brick manu
factories, and a sash, door, and blind factory have secured
locations there, while stores, residences, and other buildings
are going up, and although the place is but ten months old
there is a progress and development that is wonderful in every
way. The samples of ore on exhibition which were taken
from the company's property show a vast resource, so far as
minerals are concerned. The company has also matured plans
for the erection of a large hotel on a commanding eminence
overlooking the extensive plane, and which will be of great
advantage to Shendun in every way ; but it will never be kept
better than Wright's.

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 233
From the agricultural and mineral resources surrounding
this place it must be seen that it will become a business centre;
yet so great are its facilities for a summer resort and a Mecca
for pleasure-seekers, that the latter will have that just preference
to which it is entitled, and which will necessarily become a
source of great revenue to the company and Shendun itself.
There is no place in Shenandoah Valley so fitted to make a
town of this kind as the already famous Grottoes ofthe Shenan
doah. They have already played a most material part in the
development of the Valley by being the instrument of its in
troduction to thousands of people who would never have seen
it except for the wide reputation spread abroad of their beauty
and weird scenery.

CHAPTER V.
Clarke county — Date of formation — Its resources — Population and class of
people — Berryville, the county-seat (formerly known as Battletown)—
Growth of the place since the advent of the Shenandoah Valley railroad —
The inhabitants of the place— Churches, schools, and social status — Many
facilities and advantages of the town — Formation ofthe Berryville Land
and Improvement Company— Some general remarks upon the town.
CLARKE county occupies part of the northern portion of
Shenandoah Valley, and is second to none in Virginia
for fertility of soil, healthfulness of climate, and fine
agricultural resources. It was cut off from Frederick in the
year 1835, and was duly organized in 1836. The soil is gen
erally very rich, of a limestone character, and is noted for its
productiveness as to cereals — wheat particularly. The great
bulk of land lying west of Shenandoah river is a great wheat-
producing country, often yielding from forty to forty-five bush
els per acre.
In addition to the agricultural productions, this county has
turned out to be possessor of a mineral wealth likely to add
materially to its riches. Iron ore (brown hematite and specu
lar) stratified on the slopes of mountains and in pockets on
the course of the river, have been discovered in large quanti
ties, and some have been worked for ten years — the products of
these mines having been shipped to Sparrow Point, near Bal
timore, Harrisburg and Carlisle, Pa., and the Shenandoah Iron
Works, in Page county. Along the foot-hills of the Blue
Ridge, in this county, fine specimens of copper and 'lead have
been discovered east of the Shenandoah river, and tin has
been reported to have been found on the Capon Springs'
property by Mr. Bale, who shipped a cargo of the ore to
Wales. A purchase of these lands has been negotiated for,
including that part of the property on which satisfactory ore

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 235
has been found. The ores of the county have been worked
successfully, notwithstanding the fact that they had to be wag
oned five or six miles to connect with railway facilities. There
are many ore-bearing tracts which as yet have not been devel
oped, nor can these mineral resources be with any reasonable
certainty approximated until they are opened up.
Among the resources of this favored section may be men
tioned its timber lands, including large quantities of oak,
hickory, walnut, ash, poplar, chestnut, and other kinds of the
best quality ; and while much has been utilized already, there
remain great bodies of it, especially along the foot-hills of the
mountains. Stock-raising in the county is quite profitable,
and sheep, cattle, horses, and swine are bred in large numbers.
The horses of Clarke command a ready sale, on account of
their superiority. There is a superabundance of vegetables,
dairy products, and farm productions, which are advantage
ously disposed of by the citizens. The climate is admirable
in every way, and the lands rolling and easy of tillage, pro
ducing vast quantities of every known product which the soil
is capable of bringing forth.
The old family seats and estates of this county have pre
served their original boundaries and owners with more tenacity
than those of any other that we know of in Virginia. The
Pages, Lewises, Clagetts, Taylors, Smiths, McCormicks, Whit
ings, and many others now occupy the houses of their ances
tors, and they have kept them free from the inroads of unsanc
tified strangers with a care and prudence most commendable
in every respect. Some of these are remarkably handsome in
the way of architectural structure, while the lands of all are
productive and fertile in the highest degree. Every evidence
of comfort and contentment seems to surround th.em, and the
social status and compact between these people still remains
unimpaired and unshaken. Whether we take "Audley," the
family seat of the Lewises, whose ancestors, the Washing-
tons, trod these same halls of the edifice, or "Page Brook,"
in the Millwood section, the family seat of the ancestors of Dr.

236 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
Page and John Y., all preserve the same family traditions
and have that refined and conservative air which time alone
can give, assisted by the adjuncts of culture and gentility.
The county-seat of Clarke, so fortunate in being the centre
of the many advantages we have named, is Berryville, which
lies upon the Norfolk and Western railroad (formerly known as
the Shenandoah Valley road), forty miles south of Hagerstown
and one hundred and ninety-nine miles north of Roanoke City.
It is a very old place, and prior to the year 1798 was known as
Battletown, taking this warlike title from the fights which old
Daniel Morgan had at the place whenever he came to the town
from his home, "Soldier's Rest," some three miles from the
place. Saratoga was constructed by Mr. Daniel Morgan, who
built the house with the Hessian prisoners, that even quarried
the stone.
In 1798 Battletown was incorporated and called Berryville,
in honor of Benjamin Berry, an honored citizen ofthe place at
that time. Being the county-seat, it gradually increased until
there were three or four hundred people, and it was supported
by the trade from the surrounding agricultural region. It
went through the ravages of the Civil war, and was the scene
of several skirmishes during that period, in which its citizens
played an important part, especially when it was shelled by a
Maryland regiment. Subsequent to tbe Avar it recuperated,
and in 1881, when the Shenandoah Valley railroad came
through, had about five hundred people, but from that on the
increase and growth quickened perceptibly until 1890, when
the inhabitants numbered some eighteen hundred people.
No place in Virginia is blessed with a better and more charm
ing people than Berryville. Whether we take them for honesty,
uprightness, sobriety, or Christian principles, or whether they
are viewed in a social way, they are all and everything that
humanity can be. They are thrifty in a business way; they
are just and righteous in all their dealings;, they are thoroughly
kind and hospitable in every conceivable manner, and genial
and friendly to the stranger worthy of entering their gates.

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 237
There is a general air of good-feeling and fellowship, and un
like most small places everybody always has something good
instead of bad to say of his neighbor. Enjoyment and innocent
mirth rule the hour, and from the parents to the exquisitely
lovely daughters who promenade the shaded sidewalks there
is a desire and will to make everybody have a pleasant and en
joyable time.
The churches of almost every denomination are here — the
¦ Episcopal, Northern and Southern Methodist churches, Bap
tist church, Presbyterian — all of which have large and flourish
ing congregations and a fair average attendance, composed of
respectable, orderly people, and the best material. The state
of morality is exceptionally highland a criminal charge is a
rare thing, while drunkenness is almost unknown unless some
strangers come in and indulge too freely. The place has ample
educational facilities, which exert a fine influence over the
town, and assists it in a material way as well. In addition to
several good public graded schools, and private ones, too, Shen
andoah Academy is here, with a fine roll of students, and the
young Pages, Lewises, Taylors, Moores, McDonalds, Wheats,
McCormicks, Castlemans, Deals, all learn the rudiments and
higher branches of educational knowledge here. The natural
result of all these advantages is a type of society of the best
order imaginable, whether these people be taken as a church-
going body, listening to the able discourses of Rev. P. P.
Philips, Mr. Fitzwater, Rev. Mr. Wolf, Rev. Julius Broad-
dus, or be viewed as a whole attending the latest operatic
representation of " Pauline, the Belle of Saratoga," so tastefully
jind ably acted by Miss Evelyn Page, Miss Lewis, supported
by the talented operatic star of that country, the incomparable
Sam Taylor, now one of the leading real estate men of Berry
ville and Front Royal. In fact, the social state of the town is
all that could be desired in every way, aud one well calculated
not only to amuse and please, but to instruct also.
This place, which has beeu quiet so long, cannot remain so in
the future in this onward age of development and progress.

238 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
The rich agricultural resources surrounding it, the vast body
of timbered lands of superior quality, the mineral wealth
throughout the county, the immediate delightful advantages
of the town itself, will necessarily propel it forward in spite of
internal schisms that in certain ways are not less contemptible
than they are unwise. And Berryville has come forward to
seek her own in this respect. The formation of the Berryville
Land and Improvement Company, for the purpose of develop
ing the resources of the town, is but the beginning of ati end
that will yet astonish the people of the place, who now have
almost every nucleus for the founding of a town or the build
ing of a city. If they fail to avail themselves of these won
derful resources and advantages pressing themselves upon the
town, then the inhabitants should be buried beneath their own
internal rendings and heresies, and have the epitaph " igno
minious failure " carved upon their tombstones. But the peo
ple of this place as a whole can be depended upon, as well as
those of the immediate surrounding neighborhood, who are
largely interested in Berryville's welfare.
The town is well laid off, with broad streets, nicely shaded,
and the adjacent country admirably suited for building sites —
Avhether for manufacturing or residence purposes — and are
being laid off aud improved. Several manufactories are there,
and the commercial interest is a good one, well supported by
both town and country. Taking the town all in all, we know
of no more advantageous place for business purposes, nor a
more delightful one in which to reside.

CHAPTER VI.
Warren county — Formed in 1836 — Character of its agricultural resources and
mineral deposits — Front Royal, the county-seat — The twin cities, Front
Royal and Riverton — Something of their past history — Growth of these
places after the construction ofthe Shenandoah Valley railroad — Present
number and character of the inhabitants of the twin cities — The Front
Royal and Riverton Improvement Company— H. H. Downing— Manu
facturing and commercial interests of the towns — The development com
panies — Churches, schools, and social state — One of the coming cities of
Shenandoah Valley.
WARREN county, with a population of eight thousand
people, was cut off from Frederick and Shenandoah
counties in the year 1836, and is one of the best
portions of this rich valley of which we have been writing.
The lands are generally rolling, with about one-half composed
of fertile river bottoms, and have the reputation of being fine
agricultural lands as well as an unusually good grazing country,
producing in abundance wheat, corn, oats, hay, rye, and barley,
as well as the usual kinds of vegetables ; and horses, cattle,
sheep, and swine are bred in large numbers. The mineral de
posits are good also, consisting of iron, manganese, kaolin,
fire-clay, limestone, plumbago, ochre, and umber, all of which
are found in sufficient quantities to meet the wants and
demands of large manufacturing concerns. Specimens of
these can be seen by application at the office of the Front Royal
and Riverton Improvement Company, located at Front Royal,
the county-seat of Warren.
The twin cities, Front Royal and Riverton, which are now
virtually one place, are located on the line of the Shenandoah
Valley division of the Norfolk and Western railroad, eighty-
six miles from Washington by the Manassas Gap branch of
the Richmond and Danville Railroad Company; sixty miles
from Hagerstown, Maryland, and one hundred and seventy-
nine miles from Roanoke, Virginia. Prior to the construction

240 SOUTHAVEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
of the Shenandoah Valley road, Front Royal had some five
hundred people, while Riverton boasted of three houses. The
two places then were some three miles apart, but now, through
the recent development, they have become a part and parcel of
the same place. When the Shenandoah Valley railroad came,
in 1879, both places began to improve — Riverton especially —
until in 1890 Front Royal had increased to about two thou
sand and Riverton grown to seven hundred people. Then
began a rapid growth, the end of which has by no means
come, since it is really but in its infancy. But prior to the
numerous industries which located in 1890, Front Royal and
Riverton were by no means at a standstill; in fact, they under
went a steady growth between the years 1880 and 1890. The
former place had two banks, a large tannery, a canning factory,
cigar factory, flouring mills, Carson's lime works, horse-collar
factory, wagon and buggy factory, marble yard, and harness
factory. These industries represented a large amount of
capital and employed a considerable number of operatives and
laborers, who resided at the place. These industries came in
after the Shenandoah Valley railroad, and gradually built up
Front Royal and Riverton, until, in the year 1890, the places
were a considerable nucleus for the development companies to
work upon. These cities have had two great advantages ever
since 1880 — one of which was ample and sufficient water-power,
and the best class of railway facilities by Avay of the Manassas
Gap road and the Shenandoah Valley. The north fork and the
south fork of the Shenandoah join here and make what is really
the main valley of the Shenandoah, as Massanutten mountain —
the floor of the valley raised — divides the north and south
branches south of the twin cities, through a portion of Warren
and Page counties. The position of the two towns of which
we are Avriting is a peculiarly favorable one in a natural Avay,
since all products and resources from both the north and south
valley meet and join at this point to proceed northward.
From 1880 to 1890 the people who came to Front Royal and
Riverton, together with the former inhabitants of the place,

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 241
constituted a set of individuals who, though conservative, saw
the advantage of manufacturing industries to build up a place,
aud inaugurated them as far as possible, and located those
which we have already named. The banking facilities being
fine, and the place enjoying a good surrounding trade from
a rich agricultural country, improved rapidly. Whilst the
citizens were very prudent and careful, they were not back
ward and timid, as many Avere in neighboring places; so when
the great progressive move in 1888 and 1889 struck Shenan
doah Valley, Front Royal and Riverton were ripe for it, and
fell in with the advice and plans of strangers coming in read
ily } who, seeing the many natural advantages of the situation
of the places, cast in their fortunes here. The result was the
organization of the Front Royal and Riverton Improvement
Company, which we venture to assert is one of the strongest
developing companies in every way in Shenandoah Valley.
On the 5th day of June, 1890, this company was organized
with a capital stock of $500,000, and H. H. Downing, of Fau
quier, was made president. No man could have been selected
to have filled this post with more capacity than this gentleman
has done, as subsequent policy and success on his part has
shown. Even before the charter was obtained he had every
dollar of the stock placed, and was industriously at work
securing industries for Front Royal and Riverton, consisting
of various kinds both in wood and iron. The company pur
chased 1,700 acres of land in and around the twin cities, all
available for building sites, either for manufacturing purposes
or residences, and secured leases on 15,000 acres of mineral
lands, including iron, copper, asbestos, fire-clay, galena, man
ganese, manganiferous ores, slate, and marble. It secured the
mountain known as Green Hill — one solid mass of iron ore- —
and the opinion of an expert on the subject of these ores was
" that they were sufficient to run the furnaces of Pennsylvania
for some time. The company also let to contract the building
of two bridges for the improvement of the two places, and all
that body of land lying upon the eminence was laid off into

242 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
squares, with broad, graded avenues, and lots cut off in the
usual size. In fact, the policy and object of this company was
the building up and improvement of these towns, and every
consideration Avas sacrificed to that object. The result of the
liberal donations and subscriptions made by the company was
manifest in a short time by the location at Front Royal and
Riverton of the following industries: A knitting factory, furni
ture factory, piano factory, two brick-manufacturing plants,
wood-working company, patent machinery company, steam
cracker factory, all of which necessarily would take a large
number of operatives when in working trim. And H. H.
Downing, upon securing a contract for these plants, next inter
ested men of means like Strouse, Allemong, and Bowman, of
Salem, Va., in these twin cities, and some of the largest capi
talists in Roanoke responded to his urgent solicitation, and
Fropt Royal and Riverton went ahead with wonderful strides,
justly and honestly made in their behalf, based upon the situa
tion of the places with reference to railway facilities and the
agricultural and mineral resources of the surrounding country.
The sale of lots held by the company in the fall of 1890 justi
fied the hopes of the most sanguine, and was one of the most
successful which took place in Shenandoah Valley during the
year 1890. Large amounts were invested there, and the places
have a bright future, toward which they may justly look for
ward with proper pride and pleasure.
From the time that the Front Royal and Riverton Improve
ment Company began its work of developing the resources and
advantages of these towns and the surrounding country there
has been a strenuous effort to locate and get in operation as
many industries and manufactories in wood as possible. The
object of this Avas a wise one — to utilize in every conceivable
manner the great amount of material in the way of timber
growing in the adjacent forests. Mr. Downing's policy — to
engage and secure every industry in this respect possible — ex
hibited unusually good judgment, because it is mainly as much
through a number of small manufactories that a city is built up

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 243
as through larger ones. This manufacture of Avood into every
conceivable shape and form, for house-building as Avell as decora
tive architecture, is not only a nice industry, but an ornamental
and useful one, too ; and the boundless forests of poplar, oak,
hickory, cherry, walnut, chestnut, and other woods furnish an
almost endless supply of the best quality of material. From
these varieties carriages, Avagons, agricultural implements, fur
niture, buckets, tubs, barrel staves, and, indeed, almost every
article made from wood, can be profitably manufactured here
and be made a paying undertaking. And every facility will be
given those desiring to locate by the companies so much in
terested in the future of these cities. The quantity and quality
of this material has been fully examined, and before long these
industries in this branch will re-echo all through Shenandoah
Valley, and especially at places like these, vyhere the raAv mate
rial is abundant and railroad facilities render markets accessible.
In the manufacture of iron, too, Front Royal will take a
prominent position, for three reasons : the accessibility of ores
in the surrounding country, the cheap supply of coke and lime
stone, and the railroad facilities which the place must necessarily
possess. We have already given an account of the ore regions
around the twin cities, and it is unnecessary to revert to them ;
but in the way of limestone, the country is full of it, and the
cost of placing it at the furnaces will be merely nominal. The
facility of these places for obtaining coke will readily be seen
the moment we unfold the railroad advantages connected with
the towns now in existence and in prospective. The Shenan
doah Valley branch of the Norfolk and Western Railroad
Company places both the Flat Top coal regions and those of
Connellsville, Pennsylvania, within reach of Front Royal and
Riverton, from either of Avhich she can draw her coke. But
there is every prospect of a nearer field still. The Washington
and Western railroad, whose charter extends from Washington
to West Virginia, across the Shenandoah Valley railroad, and
which will intersect that road between Luray and Front Royal,
will place the coking fields of the coal regions of West Vir-

244 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
ginia almost at the furnaces of this section. Already the
route of the road is being located, and Front Royal and River
ton have been named as a favorable point for intersection with
the Shenandoah Valley railroad. The extension into West
Virginia, which is almost a certainty, Avill be of infinite advan
tage to these towns, possessing already vast quantities of ores
and limestone.
The Lexington and Front Royal Investment Company, by
its policy, has taken a hand in the development of the twin
cities. It is organized with a capital of $150,000, and has W.
F. Pierson as president, with J. W. Ranke secretary and treas
urer. The object of the company is necessarily a progressive
one for any place in which it locates, for in addition to control
ling some two hundred lots in Front Royal, the concern has
secured the ground in Riverton on which to erect at least fifty
thousand dollars' worth of buildings. No cause is so signally
a developing one as that arising from building in a city, because
the operation requires an expenditure of means for material and
labor also. This undertaking should meet with success when
it pursues a plan Avhich benefits a whole community more or
less, and we have no doubt of its reaching a high state of
prosperity. <
The West-End Land Company, organized September, 1890,
with a capital stock of $300,000 — one-half of which was at once
issued — gave a signal progress towards that part of the town
extending from the old portion to the Shenandoah Valley rail
road. The company is composed of representative men, and
purchased 111 acres, whieh were laid off into lots, with well-
graded streets. Every inducement has been offered by this
company to secure manufactories, and its policy is a liberal one
in every way. In fact, the natural advantages of no place have
been more extensively placed before the public than those of
the twin cities, by the development companies within their
borders, and success so far has repeatedly crowned their efforts.
Notwithstanding the fact that there is a rapid material devel
opment afoot, the moral, mental, and social state of the places

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 245
have ample opportunities to progress.. An Episcopal church,
one Presbyterian, two Methodist, two Baptist, and one Roman
Catholic throw open their doors of worship every Sabbath, and
they are well attended and strongly supported. All have pas
tors of energy and talent, who guard zealously the moral wel
fare of the twin cities. The state of morality throughout the
community is on a healthy basis — as in most places in this
charming valley — and peace and contentment seem to be salient
characteristics of the community. The educational facilities
are undoubtedly good, there being a fine graded school, Avith
good teachers and a fair curriculum, including the languages;
yet the attendance in these places by the scholars is not so
good as it should be. Socially, the towns are pleasant places,
and some very nice people reside there, among whom may be
mentioned the Clouds, the Bucks, the Turners, the Roys, the
Millers, the Pettys, the Griffiths, the Downings, and others.
Front Royal and Riverton, with their agricultural and min
eral resources, their manufacturing and commercial interests,
their development companies, their resources in the way of ores
and timber, and their railroad facilities, must in the course of a
few years be numbered among the cities of the Shenandoah
Valley. So far as we can judge the future by what has been
accomplished in the past, there can be but little doubt of
the reasonableness of such a conclusion, warranted by fac+s
gathered from the soundest basis.

CHAPTER VII.
Augusta county — Once a part of Orange county — Cut off in 1738 — This
county once included ail the country between the Blue Ridge mountains
and Mississippi river — Its settlement and rapid* growth — Population of
same — Agricultural and mineral resources — Waynesboro — When laid
off and origin of its name — Its original owners and celebrated tavern —
Growth of the place, and the Civil War — Advent of the Shenandoah
Valley railroad — Development of Waynesboro commenced by Basic
City in 1889 — The Waynesboro Company — The West Waynesboro Com
pany — The Waynesboro and Basic City Land Company — Improve
ments—Manufacturing and commercial interests of the place — Churches,
schools, and people of Waynesboro — This town obliged to become a
part of Basic City.
AUGUSTA county, the home of civilization, refinement,
and wealth, is one of the best counties within the do
main of the fair Old Dominion, and on this account
has always occupied a prominent part in everything connected
with the State. Over a century ago her handful of citizens
fought the Indians, and retraced their steps from these victori
ous fields to struggle for liberty against the encroachment of a
parent country. When civil discord rose between the States this
county went forth with its sons and gave their property and
lives out of love to patriotism, and noAv she is taking a front
place in this age of development, yielding her rich fields and
embedded wealth as an assisting power to move the revolving
wl oels of progress. It is one of the oldest counties in the
State, having been cut off from Orange in the year 1738, and
was settled by an honest, worthy class of people from Eastern
Virginia and Pennsylvania. At one time, by the treaty of Paris
in 1763, its western boundary was limited by the Mississippi
river, and it covered the vast territory now embracing all of
the present State of Virginia west of the Blue Ridge, West
Virginia, Kentucky, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, and
Wisconsin. As years rolled on, and the people turned their
faces westward, the country becoming thickly settled, Augusta

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 247
was robbed of its vast area of territory, until the present limits
were reached. From a handful of people tilling the fertile
soil the county has grown until it has become a great manu
facturing and commercial centre, with a population of almost
forty thousand people, all engaged in lucrative pursuits, which
more than supply the wants of its inhabitants. Nor are we in
the least surprised at this, if we consider the rich resources
lying within its borders.
The natural resources, both as to agriculture and minerals,
are almost unlimited except by extent of territory and an im
aginary boundary. The lands lie between the Blue Ridge and
Alleghany mountains, and are a part of the justly celebrated
Shenandoah Valley, and although in some portions of the
county are mountainous, on the Avhole they may be said to
be rolling, aud are easily cultivated. They are extremely pro
ductive, yielding large crops of Avheat, corn, hay, oats, and
buckwheat, besides vegetables of every description, and have a
justly celebrated reputation for the fine stock raised, including
large numbers of horses, cattle, sheep, and swine. It is among
the first counties in Shenandoah Valley for stock-breeding,
having won an enviable reputation for its fine horses and cat
tle, large numbers of which are exported annually from its
borders. Dairy farming is becoming a most important opera
tion, and as the country develops the home consumption of
the farm products will but increase its present agricultural
wealth. Augusta hay has a State reputation and is eagerly
sought after by almost every one who knows anything about
this commodity. As far back as 1850 the county produced
419,006 bushels of Avheat, 505,000 of Indian corn, 250,026 of
oats, 15,225 tons of hay, and 275,483 pounds of butter. This
county produces the largest quantity of hay of any other in the
State except Rockingham, and leads all in the production of
butter except Loudoun. As an agricultural country it has no
superior. Recent developments have likewise proven that the county
is also rich in mineral Avealth buried within its bowels, to be

248 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
yet unearthed for the further enriching of its people. Almost
all classes of mineral ores have been found, and near the tOAvns
of Waynesboro and Basic City the necessary ore for the mak-
of basic steel crops out in vast quantities and of fine quality.
Iron ore, manganese, ochre, glass sand, fire-clay, china-clay, and
others abound throughout Augusta, ready to be mined and
utilized for the benefit of mankind whenever it is necessary.
No country South- can show a better ore territory than this
county, and Basic City derives its name from its being in the
centre of the region of the South which is best suited, from the
vast quantity of raw material, to the manufacture of basic
steel. The value of this steel is too well known for an intelli
gent writer to comment upon. No place can show a better
class of iron ores than the western range of the Blue Ridge
contiguous to Basic City, and twenty miles west, by the Chesa
peake and Ohio railroad, North Mountain range is reached,
with brown hematite and Clinton ores in sufficient quantities
to supply many furnaces for a long time. The celebrated
Crimora manganese mines lie in this county, about nine miles
north of Basic City, from which two-thirds of the manganese
used in the United States is derived, and which has made the
owners wealthy men. Nor is this the only point where this
valuable ore is found in this country. With such; material in
the way of ores, it needs no prophet's eye to foresee that this
country must at some day become a manufacturing centre of
broad dimensions.
In the county of Augusta, on the Chesapeake and Ohio
railroad, 125 miles from Richmond, 12 miles from Staunton,
143 miles from Hagerstown, and 96 miles from Roanoke, lies
one of the oldest towns in this section of country, which has
grown Avith scarcely a perceptible gait for the past fifty years,
and known as Waynesboro at present — the same title it bore
ninety-eight years ago. In 1798 the upper part of the town
was laid off, while the lower part was mapped out four years
later, in 1802, and the whole named after General Wayne, of
Revolutionary fame. The original owners of the soil were

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 249
jovial Virginians, and old Waynesboro Tavern was known as
a place of social enjoyment, where a man was not excluded
from "the set" if his love of the sparkling glass got the better
of his judgment once in a while. Presidents, in wending
their way from their native States, stopped within the rooms of
this tavern. Jackson and Fillmore have dined from its festive
board, while Benton and Calhoun, able statesmen, have spent
the night there, and asked for "just one more glass before Ave
retire.'' Slowly this town grew as the centre of a rich agricultural
country and rural trade until the year 1850, when there were
some six hundred people, with two or three churches and an
academy. When the Civil war broke out, in 1861, the town was
the scene of carnage and blood, and from an eminence south
can be plainly seen the points where the troops were stationed
when hot shell waked up the quiet inhabitants of the place.
Hunter passed through the place on his raid, and several lively
skirmishes enlivened things considerably during this fearful
period of death and destruction. Coming out of the war, it
recuperated, and one or two manufactories located, when the
Shenandoah Valley Railroad Company came in and Waynes
boro then improved a trifle faster. A military academy was
opened and a fine female school came into existence, while a
few more industries, made their appearance, and in 1889 the
place had several schools, a flouring mill, two furniture facto
ries, two planing, sash, door, and blind factories, a creamery,
a machine factory for making rams, corn-shellers, and hay-
cutters, with a population of some eleven hundred people.
But the latter part of the year 1889 was an era for this
quiet country place, since it seemed all at once to seize a spirit
of development, engendered doubtless by the formation of a
developing company at Basic City, about three-quarters of a
mile away. This place began its operations in December ;
Waynesboro followed suit, and in the same month the Waynes
boro Company, with a capital stock of $100,000, was organized,
and M. Erskine Miller elected president, with T. H. Antrim

250 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
as vice-president and general manager. This organization
gave a decided impetus to Waynesboro, which donned a garb
of material growth at once that caused the older people to
wonder what the Avorld was coming to. The company pur
chased about 1,700 acres of land lying upon a beautiful plateau
fronting on South river, sloping gently to the water, and look
ing east upon the beautiful valley of the Blue Ridge. Nice
building lots, for manufacturing as well as business purposes,
Avere laid off, and inducemeuts offered for the location of plants.
The West Waynesboro Company next organized, with General
Rosser as president, and a capital stock of $200,000, which
purchased a body of land and began using its capital and en
ergy for the benefit of the place. The inauguration of the
Waynesboro and Basic City Land Company was the concep
tion of not only a wise plan for developing Waynesboro, but
to give it a kind of communication with Basic City, so that the
beating of the latter's arteries might throw blood into the for
mer's veins, giving it new vital energy to stir up a sinking
pulse. And this Avell-laid plan met with success, as has since
been seen. The company purchased one hundred and thirty-
four acres of land lying between and equi-distant from Waynes
boro and Basic City, for residence purposes — especially villas.
Realizing the importance of dwelling-houses for the manufac
turing men locating at Basic City and Waynesboro, the com
pany wisely purchased the land most accessible to both, and
laid off its lots. The stock was eagerly taken and the land
¦disposed of at most satisfactory prices. On this property is
situated the lovely grove named " IngalPs Park," in honor
of Mr. M. E; Ingalls, president of the Chesapeake and Ohio
railroad. The company's capital stock was $100,000, and H.
Webster Crowl Avas elected president.
The result of these developing causes was soon apparent in
various ways. A large smelting plant for the reduction of tin
was secured, and Hotel Brunswick placed under construction
by the Waynesboro company — great acquisitions to the town.
This hostelry, located on the south of the place, commands a

SOUTHWEST A'IRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 251
lovely view of the surrounding country, and is built] on the
Queen Anne style, with all modern appliances and improve
ments. Not only will it advance the interests ofthe place, but
become, on account of the location and situation of the prop
erty, a famous summer resort. The manufacturing interests
were greatly improved, and some new people came in, Avhile
the plan of construction of the block of buildings by Rosen-
burg & Co., brought on by this spirit of development, gave
Waynesboro neAv life and a regenerated existence. There is
an air of progress unmistakable about the place which indicates
that it is fully alive to the age of material advancement. Im
provements are going on, arid plans mapped out to bring water
from a spring half a mile south of the place, which is the finest
in the Shenandoah Valley, and has a cooling draught unex
celled by any water percolating through stratas of purifying
earth, thoroughly filtered and refreshed. The advantages of
the place materially, with the assistance of these developing
companies, and Basic City at hand, will cause Waynesboro to
continue to improve and advance. The commercial interests
of the town have ahvays been good, since it has been a trading
centre from times immemorial for the rich agricultural country
around, while the pupils and boarders at the schools and col
leges enhance this branch of the town's business in a marked
manner. Christian privileges and educational facilities in Waynes
boro are unusually fine, giving the inhabitants of the place
every opportunity for moral as well as mental training. There
are Presbyterian, Methodist, and Baptist churches, which hold
divine service and have the cordial support of the community,
while the attendance is always good. Education can be ob
tained here in either a civil or military way, as both classes
of schools exist at Waynesboro, conducted in the best possible
manner. The Fishburne Military Academy, with over one
hundred scholars and a full corps of instructors, academically
as well as in the military department, is a good place at which
a boy or young man can be both physically and mentally

252 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
trained, besides being fitted for army service — by no means
an unimportant item. The Waynesboro Female Academy,
under Mrs. B. J. Winston, has a hundred and five scholars,
and is well known everywhere as a school of the first order.
Both are crowded to their full capacity, while the graded free
school is admirably attended. The logical consequence of this
Christian and mental training is a fine social and moral status
in Waynesboro. We doubt if there is a more law-abiding and
moral community anywhere than this, and the society is at
once intelligent, cultivated, and refined. Certainly these are (
inducements second to none in the make-up of a place of resi
dence, or one in which to locate with the responsibility of the
moral and mental welfare of a family upon one's hands. The
people are composed of the descendants of the best inhabitants
ofthe Valley, whose staunch adherence to liberty, love of pro
bity, honesty, and justice, render them pleasant to deal with,
and always safe as guardians of the property, liberty, and lives
of their fellow-creatures.
This place is destined to be one of the largest cities in the
Shenandoah Valley, but not of its own exertions. It will be
come so through an eventual union with Basic City, only three-
quarters of a mile away. Since the growth of both places —
particularly Basic City — the two towns have become almost one,
and there is a unity of time, interest, title and possession
which will surely bring them into one city in a short time.
Basic City will certainly absorb Waynesboro, and by so doing
the former will gain a power and strength which cannot be
calculated now. The two places should have become one in
the start, and the feeling of petty jealousy which kept them
apart cannot be too severely condemned, for these towns have
a foundation for the largest city in that section of country, with
every advantage surrounding them. We cannot wish either a
more advantageous future than that they come under one head
and make this basic steel section all that it should be, as they
are fully capable of doing.

CHAPTER VHI.
Basic City — Location — On May 9th the junction of the Chesapeake and Ohio
railroad and the Shenandoah Valley— Rapid growth— The cause — Cen
tre of the basic steel section in the South — The Basic Cit}' Mining and
Manufacturing Company— Policy of the company— Sam. Furrow— J. M.
Quarles — Manufacturing and commercial interests of the place — Basic
City and Waynesboro — Some general remarks upon the towns in Shen
andoah Valley as to their present state and future progress.
WE come now to chronicle the historj7 of a town which
is at the same time more brief and marvellous in its
wonderful growth and development than any other
in Shenandoah Valley or Southwest Virginia. In January,
1890, there was no such place as Basic City in existence, so far
as buildings and manufacturing plants go, while in January,
1891, the place has become a town of almost 1,200 people, with
manufacturing industries enough completed, under construc
tion, and secured to make a city of 5,000 or 6,000 people in less
than another twelve months, provided no miracle of retrograding
events occurs. This phenomenal place is located directly upon
1 the line of the Chesapeake and Ohio railroad, at the point where
the Shenandoah Valley railroad intersects the former, and on
May 9, 1890, Basic City was composed of one hotel and station-
house. The location had long been held in view as a point to
found a city, owing to the situation being in the best portion
of Augusta county, and the centre of not only the basic steel
ore section, but unexcelled railroad facilities. Here, within a
short distance, were the foot-hills of the Blue Ridge, filled with
ore ; limestone abounded on every side ; the coking fields of the
Chesapeake and Ohio system, as well as those of the Flat Top
region, were within easy reach, and the climate being unex-
ceptionably good, made this point a most favorable one at whieh
to operate. The result was the formation of a development
company on December 7, 1889, with a capital stock of $700,000,

254 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
and the election of Samuel Furrow as president and J. M.
Quarles vice-president and general manager of this enterprising
concern. The policy of this company was undoubtedly the
utilization of the many natural advantages of the place for the
building of a city, and this company possessed every natural
advantage necessary to operate successfully upon. This point
is some 124 miles from Richmond, 12 miles from Staunton, 96
miles from Roanoke, and 143 miles from Hagerstown, Mary
land. East and west, north and south, railroad facilities are un
rivalled, while the ore region around is all that could be desired.
Iron, sandstone, fire-clays, ochre, manganese, and other ores
already named as belonging to Augusta county, abounded on
all sides, and the agricultural country everything that heart
could wish to supply twenty times the population with the
necessaries and comforts of life. The town of Waynesboro,
which hitherto had never thrown off its lethargy, began to stir
after the move at Basic City, and it needed but the placing of
these advantages before the public in order for Basic City to
spring into existence as if by magic, and grow with great
rapidity. This the company did through the great financiering
abilities of Samuel Furrow, president, and J. M. Quarles, gen
eral manager.
Early in the year 1890 the company purchased all the land
lying on both sides of the Chesapeake and Ohio and Shenan
doah Valley railroads, and laid off its streets and lots. Mineral
lands and rights were obtained, and the company secured the
plant of the Basic City Car Works, with a working capital of
$250,000, which would employ about two hundred and fifty
men , and several smaller industries. The next step was prepa
ration for a lot sale which would attract the attention and capi
tal of people to the place, where natural advantages would
speak for it strongly. On May 9, 1890, the first lot sale of the
company was held and $150,000 worth sold, and, what was
more to the point, the wonderful resources of the place were
called to the attention of the public, and the consequences were,
manufacturing plants not only came in rapidly, but began con-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 255
struction of their works at once, giving living and real security
for the future of Basic City. In less than five months the town
had the following industries secured, all of which began im
mediately to lay the foundation for future operations : The car
works mentioned above ; a paper mill, capital $50,000, to work
75 hands; hardware factory, capital stock $150,000, to work
250 hands; match factory, $50,000 capital, to employ 50 hands ;
cigar factory ; lumber and coal company, capital $100,000, to
employ 75 laborers ; Myers' Brick Works, the Brinkel Brick
Works, the Booker Steam Plant, the Ennis and Coyner Mill
Works, the Lott Plant, the Basic City Iron Furnace, 100 tons
capacity, to employ about three hundred hands at the works
and mines both, which latter undertaking is a part and parcel
of the Basic City Mining and Manufacturing Company. When
the general manager, Mr. J. M. Quarles, first informed us of
these numerous industries, secured in so short a time, our
doubts were many ; but as contract after contract was unfolded
and the foundation for the works placed within our sight, every
lingering doubt vanished and turned to admiration for the in
dustry and energy of the men who had accomplished so great
an undertaking. Nor did this enterprising concern halt upon
the securing of these industries merely. It took the necessary
steps to give them every aid, facility, and assistance possible
that would benefit them and cause Basic City to progress.
The town was laid off with an eye to manufacturing pur
poses, for the broad, lovely plateau bounded north by South
river, south by the Chesapeake and Ohio railroad, and east by
Shenandoah Valley railroad was reserved solely for manufac
turing and business purposes. The industries were located
upon the river, and lots laid off especially for them, and in
order to prevent any expense or trouble about handling freight,.
the company built a belt line of railroad track, extending for a
mile, from the Chesapeake and Ohio railroad to the Shenandoah
Valley railroad, giving these manufacturing concerns a line
of road directly at their establishments, which was an under
taking fully appreciated in every way, and which added mate-

256( SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
rially to the progress of Basic City. With this- belt line
completed, manufactories going up on all sides, residences and
buildings of every class completed and under construction,
this town has the appearance of a city, and the thriving, bus
tling, rushing air about the whole place is indicative of rapid
progress in a material way. Waterworks were put under con
tract at once, which were constructed for the purpose of sup
plying the town, and brings the fluid from a spring south of
the city unsurpassed in every way for coolness, purity, and
quantity of water. In fact, this natural reservoir is an unusu
ally fine one, and is another of the natural resources of the
town. ,
After having laid the foundation for a manufacturing city,
and done everything possible for its comfort and success, the
company then turned its attention to the pleasure of guests de
siring to visit Basic City, and placed under construction one
of the finest hotels in the valley, now completed, and known as
"Hotel Brandon." This structure, containing nearly a hundred
rooms, was designed by the accomplished architect, Mr. Poin-
dexter, of Washington, and is built in Queen Anne style, with
all the appliances and comforts known now to hotel life. It
was upholstered and furnished by Philip Brown, of Blue Ridge
fame, and is one of the most elegant and comfortable hostelries
that we know of anywhere. The view from the piazzas sur
rounding the hotel is lovely in the extreme, overlooking the
growing city to the uplands beyond, and extending away west
ward to the ethereal blue of the everlasting mountains.
Another sensible move made by this company in the begin
ning was the establishment of a good journal for the purpose
of having the many resources of the place put before the people
in a judicious, prudent manner. The "Advance Steam Pub
lishing Company," located in a handsome brick structure in
the centre of the business part of the town, edits and publishes
this paper, which has done so much for Basic City. It is a
well-gotten-up newspaper edition, and gives the news of the
day in addition to the advantages of Basic City. Journalism,

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 257
well guarded and properly directed, has been one of the most
powerful engines in the development of this country, and it
should at all times receive the support and sanction of the
people, and never be allowed to either suffer or transgress the
bounds of domestic privacy or private character. We are
happy to say that the journals of the country of which we are
writing have ever held those rules inviolate.
Following this great industrial move of manufacturing en
terprises into Basic City came a substantial mercantile interest,
ever ready to be on hand to furnish supplies for the demands
of any body of people. Stores have been erected and filled
with the necessaries and comforts of life to meet the wants of
the people, and banking facilities pursued the mercantile in
terest, which is nearly always the case. Thus, two buildings,
existing all alone in May, 1890, grew into a thriving town of
over a thousand people in eight months, eclipsing any other
industrial city in this section, and laid the manufacturing plants
necessary to bring in at least six thousand people in twelve
months. The fact is startling even in relating it, yet not
more so than the wonderful growth of this city, which has
been managed with every possible advantage imaginable. Too
much credit cannot be given to the projectors of this town.
Educational opportunities were not neglected, for the Nor
mal College was removed from Harrisburg, Pa., here, and a
fine building north of the town constructed for its use. The
well-educated principal, Mr. Hounshell, has a roll of two hun
dred students and a full faculty of good teachers in attendance.
This will be of material advantage to the town, and cast a potent
influence over its mental and moral training so necessary to any
place just beginning.
Basic City has before it another impetus which is forced to
come in course of time. This place will include Waynesboro
within its limits, upon the principle that the creator invariably
takes care of the created. It was the industrial move on the
part of this town which caused Waynesboro to wake from its
long sleep of country quietude and don the cloak of enterprise

258 SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY.
and development, and this same spirit will move Basic City to
take complete charge of Waynesboro in time to come, and
develop, with the assistance of men like Antrim, the resources
of this latter place. Another reason for the two places becom
ing one is the unity of interest, which will grow stronger and
stronger each day. Waynesboro is as lovely a place for a resi
dence as we know of, and many of the manufacturing people in
Basic City will reside there with their families, which will soon
cause both places to be as one, with the prospect of an ultimate
union almost certain ; and any spirit of opposition on the part
of either cannot be too severely criticised, since both together,
with their combined resources and capital, would make the
two, at no long future day, one of the great cities of the Valley,
not to be surpassed by any other.
Such is the brief history of Basic City, which now has far
more than a sectional reputation.
There are other places along the line of this road, which we
will not attempt a description of, for two reasons : Some are
not within the scope of this work, and others have not played
that part in the development of the section which entitles
them to a consideration as one of the causes of the progress of
the country, an inquiry into which is the origin and reason
of this undertaking. Some of these places will be towns in
course of time, and act an important role in the rapid growth
of the country, but at present they have neither the natural
advantages nor necessary stamina to cope with those we
have been discussing. Many of those towns of which we
have written are necessarily obliged to become cities, because
every power that nature possesses, including her most prodigal '
gifts, have been showered upon them, and the very earth itself
yields the wealth hid from sight to assist generous providence
in playing its part under the canopy of showers and the ge
nial rays of the sun. Shenanhoah Valley is as glorious a
land as ever man saw, and no one can withhold his tribute of
praise. If Governor Spotswood really uttered the sentence, we can-

SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA AND SHENANDOAH VALLEY. 259
not refrain from agreeing with him when he said that the
Great Valley, including Southwest Virginia and Shenandoah
Valley, was "God's country," in reference to its wonderful
fertility, glorious climate, and sublime scenery.
The End.

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