EjcUa- j£3£— YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY From the COLLECTION OF OXFORD BOOKS made by FALCONER MADAN Bodley's Librarian II paintings, $8*$t8tx$, ants ^Furniture » 101 " the mi 1 BLENHEIM GUIDE: 1 M ^ # : « #¦ in) i— n -"^i^Bntainyig a full and accurate AccdUnt of the t— « IL l^iintiiiirr«- fffamctftrn. arnfr -fFitmifiirft ? IL TOUR OF THE GARDENS AND PARK ; « 7] A GENERAL DESCRIPTION .|jl U o,T„E L jW CHINA GALLERY, PRIVATE GARDENS, &c. ; '£ M To whtab are also added, l~ A PICTURESQUE An iTiNsaARY; AN ACCOUNT OF L &_ i [|J THE ROMAN VILLA, NEAR NORTHLEIGH, &c. &c. [j] DI 1 jl| TWELFTH EDITION, IMPROVED; fn ~ ' Embellished with' jiz AN ELEGANT PL\N OF THE PARK, SIX NEW ENGRAVINGS ON STEEL, \]± oi " - ,.. in ill Jl^lL IH ni te# QUI i 31 8 1 j§ El ni l ^ ; » ioi 111 I »- ni SH.. OXFORD: ,'HENiRY SLATTEK, HIGH STREET. • t, 1836. Priee Mwe Shillings. imi u 'Ym,H"¥JMfl¥]EIESJIW° ° iLnisiaaisF • p* MMjJMiMtimTmn^nuya^wirfwmm:.^.^ From the COLLECTION OF OXFORD BOOKS made by FALCONER MADAN Bodley's Librarian E^mss^s^s: Fold out run {va n ¦. i" ¦ r hve .¦ro ;-i:>i.ni; arvi'.t n'.iv;i',i wrrr «i ,i,\"fis' a.'i:i. iiu.i/Kj/t/ /„ ,(i.'/| /.i-;y A DESCRIPTION OF BLENHEIM, THE SEAT OP HIS GRACE THE DUKE OF MARLBOROUGH: Containing a full and accurate Account of the iiaintinssf, STapeatrp, ants ^Furniture ; A PICTURESQUE TOUR OF THE GARDENS AND PARK; A GENERAL DELINEATION OF THE CHINA GALLERY, PRIVATE GARDENS, &c. ; 1 To which are also added, AN ITINERARY: AN ACCOUNT OF THE ROMAN VILLA, NEAR NORTHLEIGH, &c. &c. WITH A PRELIMINARY ESSAY ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. - Not the vale Of Tempe, fam'd in song, nor Ida's grove. Such beauty boasts. \Aj c V\" i/fl""* ^ord Lyttelton's Blenheim. TWELFTH EDITION, IMPROVED ; Embellished with AN ELEGANT PLAN OF THE PARK, SIX NEW ENGRAVINGS ON STEEL, &c. &c OXFORD: HENRY SLATTER, HIGH STREET. ADVERTISEMENT THE TWELFTH EDITION. No publications are more entertaining or useful than local delineations and descriptions, drawn with fidelity and taste : they enable persons to form a just idea of remarkable places, to which fortune or situation denies them access ; and without such aids, occasional spectators, who have not leisure to trace every beauty for themselves, must inevitably lose half the pleasure and satisfaction to be derived from their excursions ; and, at best, carry with them an evanescent impression, and an imperfect remembrance of what they have seen. Few places possess more attractions than Blenheim ; and yet few places have received less justice from the poet or historian. Wheatley and Gilpin, who had every requisite qualification to do it justice, have only mentioned it in a cursory manner ; and Lyttelton and Mansfield lived too near the era of the first Duke of Marlborough's exploits to describe the place, farther than might serve as a vehicle for the praise of the GENERAL INFORMATION. Blenheim may be seen every afternoon from Two till Four o'clock, except on Sundays and Public Days. On Fan- Days at Woodstock, likewise, it can be seen only by parti cular permission. Company who arrive at Woodstock in the morning, may find ample and pleasant employment of their time in taking the Ride of the Park, the Walk of the Gardens, or in view ing other objects of attraction, before the hour of admission to the Palace. A keeper is in constant attendance at the Lodge Gate. The China Gallery, Park, and Gardens, will, on proper application, be shewn at any hour of the day, except during the time of divine service, on Sundays. *#* Plans of Blenheim Park, on grand eagle French paper, plain or Coloured, for framing, may be had where the Description is sold. Price Is. plain, and 2s. 6d. coloured. A Translation of the Blenheim Guide, into French, may also be ob tained where the English Description ig sold. Blenheim Illustrated, in a series of Twelve Views, just published. PRELIMINARY ESSAY LANDSCAPE GARDENING. Natural taste is the foundation of all picturesque embellishment. To seize the grand outline with the mind's eye, to adapt the design to the predominant features in the landscape, to unfold the beauties of nature by the masterly touches of art, is the sublime province ©f the ornamental composer of rural scenery. That this science has been cultivated with the greatest success in this country, even jealousy and national rivalry will not pretend to deny. Foreign writers, distinguished for their taste, have allowed us a pre-eminence in landscape and ornamental garden ing, and that the English were the first who emanci pated themselves from the trammels of prejudice and formality, and, recurring to nature, which had long been banished from the seats of the great, invited her to her deserted abodes, and gave her a new and more imposing aspect. Kent saw the incongruity of artificial design, when at variance with nature. The straight walk, the 2 PRELIMINARY ESSAY clipped hedge, the tortured yew, sunk beneath the superior chastity of his taste. He made, indeed, as much progress as an innovator, who had a prevailing bad taste to contend with, could be expected to accom plish. Perhaps his own was not quite correct. One age seldom unfolds a new and happy idea, and brings that idea to perfection. We have had schools of painting, as well as of ornamental scenery. Some masters were distinguished for one excellence, and some for another. The force of genius has at inter vals prevailed over original disadvantages, and pro duced works to be admired, though not in every respect deserving imitation. Reynolds, who will ever remain the glory of British painters, with, a mind enlightened by science, and chastised by taste, embo died the form, and caught the character, which he transfused into the colouring on the canvass. He grouped — he combined — he followed nature, and, therefore, succeeded ; but he had great artists among his predecessors, who paved the way for the attain ment of superior excellence. It was not thus with picturesque embellishment. The science was comparatively new ; and where attempts had been formerly made, they were in o-ene- ral conducted on a wrong principle, or proceeded from a vitiated taste. Kent had every obstacle in his way, yet he accom plished much ; and gratitude is due to him who devi ates from a wrong path, and aspires to perfection though he may not be able to reach her temple. ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 3 To Kent succeeded Brown — a man originally bred a gardener ;* and from this fortuitous circumstance, without a particle of his genius, every person now, who can superintend a kitchen-garden, or handle a spade, has thought himself qualified to quit his sphere, and attempt design. But Brown possessed an originality of conception, a poet's eye, and an instinctive taste for rural embellishment. He was at last animated and inspired by some of his own creations. He saw the deformity of perverted beauty with keener optics than Kent — he viewed nature with the enthusiasm of a lover ; and though it cannot be denied that he sometimes tricked her out in meretri cious ornaments, and patched her with too refined an art, he never lost sight of her prominent charms ; and his worst errors can only be considered as minute pimples on a beautiful face.t We have, however, seen this mighty master of picturesque embellishment severely censured by some of his own countrymen, who, indulging too much in * When a youth, Brown had been employed for some years in the gardens of Kiddington House, in this vicinity. After he acquired cele brity, he was called in to improve that place, which he did with consi derable effect. It was observed to him, however, in the prosecution of this work, that he could never command extensive prospects from the house. " I will make it," replied he, " so agreeable that no one will wish to look beyond it." t Brown, as an ingenious critic observes, made it his maxim to follow and to copy Nature; whom, if he did not always represent in the images he set up lo her honour, he, at least, caused to be admired and adored. B g 4 PRELIMINARY ESSAY the visions of theory, have denied him the merit of practical excellence. Because Brown could execute better than he could describe, and worked by self- taught rules, he has been attacked with unbecoming asperity ; and some of his most capital performances have been ascribed to chance, or to a dereliction of his own principles. But who can reduce the infinite variety of situa tions that ask for improvement to any systematic principles ? The powerful genius of a place will imperiously set rules at defiance ; and, in fact, art can only be the handmaid of nature, whose beauties, presenting a boundless variety, are alike indignant of confinement and control.* The attempt at system is only an effort to bring us back to what has justly been exploded. " I have no magical skill in planting roses," says Gray ; and were this skill easily attainable, the landscape gardener ought to reject it. Nature disdains the fetters of art. The best principles can never be universally applicable to all situations. The painter may invent or reject at pleasure, and adhere to the rules of his art : the embellisher of landscape is more confined in his opera tions ; he cannot always reject— he can only improve. * Repton's sliding plates, which exhibit a place m its ordinal state, and, according to his intended imprm, ments, are a novel and excellent invention. They show, by contrast, what embellishments the situation is susceptible of, and, in general, indicate a very correct taste in the designer. To him, however, is opposed Loudon, who, professing to follow nature alone, sometimes descends to the affectation of nUe -j minuteness, though his general ideas possess much merit. ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 5 His invention may cover incidental defects ; but it cannot always command the excellencies he might wish. Besides, a flat surface and an extended natural scene are very different materials to work on, and will have very different effects when viewed by the eye of natural taste,* the only just criterion of rural embellishment. The chef d'oeuvre of Brown was the improvements at Blenheim, t He had the noblest field to display his talents on, and he did not labour in vain. But though he traced the outline with effect, the correct taste of the noble possessor of this magnificent place, at that period, enabled him to give it many additional touches, and to improve its drapery. He has, how ever, preserved the unity of the design, and only heightened the colouring. Who, that now visits these picturesque scenes, can deny but that planta tions have been applied to all the principal purposes which M. de Girardin, perhaps copying from his beloved Ermenonville, conceives ought to be their grand objects? * By natural taste is meant that quick perception of the beauties and deformities of nature which enables a person at once to decide. No faculty is more rare : it requires the union of a poetic imagination with a correct judgment. t It has been said, and probably on good authority, that when Van- brugh, the architect of Blenheim, was requested to give a design also for the intended Gardens, he declined the task, by observing " for that you must go to a landscape painter." This does honour to his taste, and shows how far he outstripped his contemporaries, who, vitiated by bad models, would, in general, have been unable to discover that land- scape painting and gardening are naturally allied in their object, though the materials are very different with which they work. 6 PRELIMINARY ESSAY " To form the perspective or side scenes of the fore-ground, that may best connect the distances with the principal points of view." " To raise such elevations or scenes as may give relief even to an absolute flat." " To hide all disagreeable objects." " To give more extent to those that are pleasing, by concealing their terminations behind a mass of wood ; by which means the imagination continues them beyond the point where they are seen." " To give an agreeable outline to all surfaces, whether of land or water." These are the ideas of a master ; and we here see them realized. They who think justly, in matters not under the influence of the passions, will generally come to the same conclusions : hence often coinci dence without intention. But while Brown has been too indiscriminately condemned by some, he has also been too lavishly praised by others, where he is least defensible. His formal clumps must in many cases be given up by his most zealous partizans, or receive a degree of connexion by intermediate planting, as has been done at Blenheim, in order to preserve the uniformity of the scene. His unvarying circular belts too, where they are not broken into masses, as we see them here, and when they serve to exclude the prospect of the surrounding country, are real defects in pictu resque beauty. No kind of property is less the object of envy, or more grateful to the eye, than to ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 7 take possession of a country in an extensive view : it contributes to the general beauty, and is equally en joyed by all, without offence to any. That display of nature is certainly most magnificent which is bounded only by the horizon : where scenes, under the imme diate view, present the most captivating charms, and where the distance harmonizes with the fore-ground. Such is the prevailing character of Blenheim. But let us not degrade it into a mere object to please the eye of taste, however refined. It presents views to interest the heart. To the picturesque landscape which charms the sight, it superadds the moral land scape that delights the mind. In its wide extent, it exhibits accommodations for age, remunerated for services in youth — it is peopled with happy labourers it is stocked with cattle — it waves with corn.* These • Sonnet, on seeing some hundred additional acres in Blenheim Park converted into tillage : — Oft o'er this scene, with raptur'd eye, the Muse Has lov'd to stray, while Fancy's magic glass In fairy tints has painted ancient views, And shown, in long array, Fame's fav'rites pass: Th' illustrious line of names renown'd of old Imagination wakes — and startles to behold ! — Here rural beauty fixed her pristine reign, And lur'd our monarchs to her native seat ; Here ev'ry spot — the shade, the slope, the plain, Is sacred ground, and worn by hallow'd feet. And shall brown Ceres o'er the space preside, Where kings have ponder'd, and a Chaucer sung ? Yes, goddess, come ! with thee the gifts abide That prop the pomp of Slate — that tune the poet's tongue. 1795. 8 PRELIMINARY ESSAY, &C. not only enliven its most brilliant scenes, but give them a charm to the heart of sensibility, which no inanimate or unproductive embellishments can possibly convey. The splendid seat may indicate the fortune of the possessor, but it is the state of the cottages in the vicinity that marks the character of the man. Every lodge within the limits of a nobleman's or gentleman's domain multiplies the means of superin tendence at a very small expense, and is equally bene ficial to himself and to the community. In fine, we may say with De Lille, " Qui fait aimer les champs, fait aimer la vertu." NEW DESCRIPTION BLENHEIM. " Having seen every thing that was curious in Oxford, we proceeded to Blenheim, the seat of the Duke of Marlborough. This place is without comparison superior to any thing I ever beheld. The beau ties of Windsor Park faded before it, and every other place I had visited was effaced from my recollection, on viewing its magnifi cence." — From the Travels of Mirza Abu Taleb Khan, commonly known in this country by the title of the ' Persian Prince,' 1799 — 1803. The Palace or Castle of Blenheim, whether re garded in itself as a magnificent pile of architecture, replete with the choicest works of art, or as taken with its accompaniments, where the sweetest natural charms have been improved by cultivated taste, has long maintained its reputation of being one of the most splendid objects of attraction in this kingdom, or, perhaps, in Europe. It stands in the fairest part of one of the finest counties in England, within half a mile of the borough of New Woodstock ; distant about eight miles from the University of Oxford, and sixty-three from London. The surrounding country, though presenting none of the bolder features of nature, is fertile and irriguous, adorned with woods, 10 DESCRIPTION OF BLENHEIM. and abounding with seats of the nobility and gentry :* the air is pure, mild, and salubrious ; and all the necessaries, and many of the luxuries of life, are plentiful and choice. Blenheim was built at the public expense, in the reign of Queen Anne,' by whom, with the concur rence of Parliament, which voted half a million t for its completion, it was conferred, together with the Honour of Woodstock, on the most illustrious John, Duke of Marlborough, as a testimony of royal favour and national gratitude for his transcendent services, and the many signal victories he had gained over the • Blenheim Palace; Ditchley, the seat of Lord Visconnt Dillon; Heythrop, the property of the Earl of Shrewsbury; and CornburyPark1, adjoining to Wychwood Forest, the delightful seat of Lord Churchill — form a chain of parks, within a moderate distance, each possessing its peculiar and appropriate beauties ; though the first stands unrivalled for grandeur and extent, for natural charms, and for elegant embellishment. t Though Parliament was apparently so liberal, immense sums have been expended by the family on this noble structure and its accompani ments, to bring it to its present state. The Triumphal Gate, the Pillar, and the Grand Bridge, were wholly built at their private expense. The improvements of the park and gardens, and the expansion of the water within the last fifty years, have cost little less than £200,000. > Cornbnry Park may be considered as classic ground, being the well- known residence of Edward Earl of Clarendon, by whom the house was greatly improved, and received the .till existing inscription running along the principal front, " Dens nobis haac otia fecit," in compliment to Charles II. The Chapel, with fine carved work by Grinlin Gibbons is ono of the most beautiful i„ the kingdom. The house has recently been modernized, under the direction of Mr. Hnkewill; and, with its accompaniments, now forms a vciy appropriate and desirable abode for :.nv nobleman. any nobleman. DESCRIPTION OF BLENHEIM. 11 French and Bavarians, particularly that near the village of Blenheim, on the banks of the Danube, from which place this noble palace receives its name. This victory being achieved on the second day of August, 1704, it was enacted, " That on the same day of every year, for ever, the inheritors of his Grace's honours and titles should render at Windsor to her Majesty, her heirs, and successors, one standard or colours, with three jleurs-de-lis painted thereon, as an acquittance for all manner of rents, suits, and services due to the Crown." The terms of this tenure are punctually observed ; and, in consequence, a long series of flags is exhibited at Windsor Castle. The architect of Blenheim was Sir John Vanbrugh, who, though he has been censured, with some show of reason, for the general heaviness of his designs, and his deviation from the purer models of Greece and Rome, must at least stand acquitted in this instance, when it is considered that strength and durability were principal objects to be regarded, in a pile intended to remain a monument of British valour and British generosity, till the latest periods of time- - Till time's remotest stage design'd to prove A Churchill's valour, and a nation's love.* Accordingly, we find both the plan and the execu tion excellently adapted to answer those momentous * The verses interspersed, where not otherwise acknowledged, are generally taken from " Blenheim," a poem, by the author of this Description, first published in 1787. 1<2 DESCRIPTION OF BLENHEIM. purposes ; and while the more modern and fanciful fabrics are only the boast of an age, Blenheim seems calculated to stand uninjured by the lapse of years, and to excite the admiration of foreigners, as well as of natives, in proportion as it is better known. But Vanbrugh does not stand in need of the poor compliment of an apology for his design— he de serves very considerable applause for his judgment, in a circumstance which has principally exposed him to the censure of pretended critics : he has rendered this structure characteristic and expressive of its des tination. Its massy grandeur, its spacious portals, and its lofty towers, recal the ideas of defence and security ; with these we naturally associate the hero for whom it was erected, and thus find it emblematic of his talents and pursuits.* * When this Description was first published, the strictures on Van- brugh's architecture had been so long and so often bandied about, by unreflecting prejudice, that the author was fearful to bestow even an adequate eulogium on this noble pile. He has not the vanity to think that he has been able to give a turn to the public opinion in this respect; but he certainly has the pleasure to find that several writers, of indis putable taste, since that period, have stepped forward in vindication of his general sentiments, and have e\en far exceeded his moderate com mendation. But the age of Blenheim has exceeded a century; and the reign of error, or of prejudice, is seldom of longer duration ! It has been justly observed, however, that from the great extent of the wings, the centre appears too low, or wanting relief; and no one will attempt to defend the punning statues of lions tearing cocks. These last might be removed without the least injury to the pile, whose real beauties, though not wholly rcduoibleto the strict orders of architecture must ever irresistibly please the most fastidious taste, when viewed in connexion with the design of its erection. DESCRIPTION OF BLENHEIM. 13 From Woodstock, the usual approach, we enter the park through a GRAND TRIUMPHAL ARCH, Or spacious portal, of the Corinthian order, raised to the memory of John, Duke of Marlborough, by Sarah, his Duchess ; and charged with the following inscrip tion, on the side next Woodstock : — PORTA HAEC EXTRVCTA EST ANNO POST OE1TVM 1LLV5TRISSIMI JOIIANNIS DVCIS DE MARLEOROVGH JVSSV ATQVE AVSPICIIS SARAE CONJVGIS DILECTISSIMAE CVI TESTAMENTO COMMESBAVIT OPERA QVIBVS VLTIMAM IPSE MABVM NOS IMPOSVER AT. QVANTA FVERINT DVCIS IN REMPVBLICAM MERITA INGRESSO TIBI PLVRIBVS DICET COLVI/INA QYAM OPTIMAE CONJVGIS PIETAS PONI VOLVIT VT PERENNE ESSET IPSIVS GLORIAE SVAEQUE DILECTIONIS MONVMENTVM. A. D. MDCCXXIII. ]4, DESCRIPTION OF BLENHEIM. Towards the park is the subsequent translation :— THIS GATE WAS BVILT THE YEAR AFTER. THE DEATH OF THE MOST ILLVSTRIOVS JOHN DVKE OF MARLBOROVGH BY ORDER OF SARAH HIS MOST BELOVED WIFE TO WHOM HE LEFT THE hOLE DIRECTION OF THE MANY THINGS THAT REMAINED VNFINISHED OF TniS FABRIC. THK SERVICES OF THIS GREAT MAN TO HIS COVNTRY THE PILLAR WILL TELL YOV WHICH THE DVCHESB HAS ERECTED FOR A LASTING MONVMENT OF HIS GLORY AND HER AFFECTION TO HIM. MDCCXXIIL On advancing within this gate, one of the most enchanting prospects in nature discloses itself to our view.* The Palace appears in front, the towers of which rise into the horizon ; on the left, the Rectory and Woodstock Tower ; on the right, a broad and deep valley, through which flows a river of equal extent, with bold and winding shores, at a propor tionate distance intersected, but visibly not terminated, by a Bridge of corresponding magnificence to the grandeur of the scene ; a swelling lawn, crowned with a superb and lofty column, which leaves the tallest trees that seem crowding round its base at an immense distance below ; while light clumps, shady groves, and plantations of different shapes and hues, * When George III. with his Queen and the three elder Princesses, first entered this gate, he was so struck with the magnificence of the' view, as to exclaim, " We have nothing equal to this :" and he spoke correctly. DESCRIPTION OF BLENHEIM. 15 skirt the bounding dales, or clothe the remoter slopes ; a second Reach of Water, beyond the bridge, fringed by deep woods that rise to the very summit of the opposite hill, and compose a variously-tinted and indented surface of luxuriant foliage — all these form an assemblage of attractions unrivalled, and conspire to strike the eye of taste with an irresistible charm. In this singularly picturesque landscape, the beautiful and the sublime are most intimately combined ; all that can please, elevate, or astonish, display them selves at once ; and the mind is at a loss to know to what source it is chiefly indebted for its pleasure, or rather what is the predominant character of the objects that arrest its attention. At a small distance from this portal, towards the right is the Centrum Phonicum, or Speaker's Place, of a very remarkable polysyllabical articulate echo ;* which, according to Dr. Plott, in his Natural History of Oxfordshire, will distinctly repeat seventeen sylla bles in a calm day, and in the night, twenty : but the demolition of the ancient palace, which stood on the brow of the opposite hill, the extension of the river, or these effects combined, have, in a great measure, diminished its surprising powers. How ever, a very superior echo may still be heard by a speaker stationed near an old cedar of Lebanon, * Echoes, the playthings of former philosophists, seem to have been favourite objects with Plott. And as this is one of which he appears to have been particularly enamoured, it would have argued fastidious ness or neglect to be wholly silent in its praise. 1() DESCRIPTION OF BLENHEIM. between Rosamond's Well and the bridge ; and it is nothing unusual for those who are acquainted with this circumstance to compliment the vocal nymph with a friendly salutation, which is speedily returned with amazing exactness of articulation, and reiterated according to the stillness of the surrounding scene. Musical sounds have a delightful effect on this spot, and I have heard the vocal nymph complimented with a song in her own praise, in which she did not, through false delicacy, disdain to join. A broad gravel road, preserving one uniform direction for nearly half a mile, and gradually diverg ing from the sweep of the river, to which there is a bold descent, conducts us towards the eastern gate of the Palace. This road is almost wholly open. On the Woodstock side only a few small rising clumps appear, which assist to conceal the boundary from other points of view, and to break the line of the buildings ; a few trees, fancifully disposed, skirt the slope, and others of a larger growth range with the stream on its very edge, and afford some pretty glades into the water, between their trunks and boughs ; but their heads scarcely rising above the level of the walk, they serve rather to vary than to conceal. In front of the Home Lodge, which stands on the left, appears that elegant structure, the China Gallery, which will he separately described in the sotiuci As wo advance, the prospects diversify ; the fine rural scenes in the northern part of the Park become THE THEATRE. 17 more and more conspicuous ; and to the north-west, the eye takes in an ample field of cheerful objects, over a wide extent of champaign and woodland coun try, to the extremity of Wychwood Forest, which is finely contrasted with the deep umbrage that over hangs the lake, and intercepts the view. This road, which is only lateral and circuitous to avoid the stiff ness of a direct approach, at last falls into another, denominated the mall ; which, beginning at the noble entrance on the south of Woodstock, called Hensing- ton Gate, is lined by double rows of stately trees, and forms a beautiful and spacious vista to the Palace. By the Eastern Gate of the Palace, over which is a reservoir capable of containing five hundred hogs heads of water,* we enter an arcaded quadrangle ; on the right, consisting of offices ; on the left, chiefly occupied by THE THEATRE, Which is fitted up in a style of peculiar elegance. The stage is large, and is furnished with proper changes of scenery, by Rooker. The seats for the audience are easy and commodious, and capable of * This water, which supplies the house, is raised by an engine on Aldersea's construction, erected in Old Woodstock mill. The water which serves the greatest part of Woodstock is thrown up by another engine in an appropriate building within the park, in the same vicinity. It would be very easy to render either of these available, both to Blen heim and to Woodstock, in case of one of them being out of repair, which is not an unusual circumstance, and, therefore, should be pro vided for. C 18 THE BRIDGE accomm odating two hundred persons, without includ ing the side boxes. The whole has a grand and a pleasing effect, and is open to the inspection of those who desire it, though it has not been used for dramatic representations for a considerable number of years. It includes the principal part of the original Green House, out of which it was formed in 1787, and was first opened on Friday, the 19th of October, in that year with the comedy of False Delicacy, and Who's th- Dliprt From this quadrangle we proceed to the area, where the North Front, with its semicircular sweep, opens to the view ; a noble piece of architecture, in a mixed original style, three hundred and forty-eight feet from wing to wing, and highly ornamented, par ticularly in the centre, which stands on Corinthian pillars of vast magnitude. This is the grand approach ; and to it we are pro perly conducted over the valley, through which the river winds, by a magnificent Bridge,* which has * In this Bridge are various apartments, some with fire places, which have never been fitted up, though for summer retreats they would be extremely pleasant. On the side next Blenheim they are inaccessible, since the expansion of the lake. In some of these dark and unexplored recesses it is not improbable that one or more species of the swallow tribe find a winter retreat, and lie in a torpid state till the return of spring. This is certain, that they have been noticed skimming the lake as early as any have bceu discovered on the sea coasts. One season a whit,: swallow was seen for a considerable time. This lususnaturce has been occasionally observed in other places. THE COLUMN. 19 been frequently compared to the Rialto at Venice, though without any just parallel of application. The diameter, of its centre arch is an hundred and one feet: Through which the Danube might collected pour His spacious urn.' The effect. of this Bridge, which unites two hills, and: gives an uniformity and consistency to the scene, that would otherwise be disjointed and complex, is peculiarly grand ; and its application one of the hap piest efforts of judgment. Beyond it, on a consider able eminence, in the midst of a fine lawn, is a stately column or pillar, one hundred and thirty feet high, on the top of which stands a colossal statue of the im mortal John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough, like a guardian god sublime, And awes the subject plain. Every circumstance that enters into the composition of the scene unites to promote one vast and beautiful effect. The North Front itself is of such magni ficence as to diffuse a lustre on surrounding objects ; the accompaniments are well adapted to reflect it back on the building': a fine expanse of water stretches its arms around, as if proud to embrace it ;' approaches in a variety of directions, spreads its animating spirit over the whole, and connects together the widely ex tended and extremely diversified parts of the brilliant landscape. c 2 -" the south front. The South Front, though less extensive than the north, is highly elegant, and constructed in the purest style of architecture. It commands a calm scene, a view 1 1 i:it, without surprising, no repetition can render iuditVerent : the eye rests on it with complacency, and returns to it with delight. The fore-ground is a fine lawn, frequently covered with sheep, and enlivened with flocks of pheasants, so tame as to follow their feeder : the pleasure grounds succeed ; behind is a beautiful perspective of the romantic village of Bladon, with its neat, unobtrusive church tower, just peeping through tufted trees ; and still farther, a prospect of the distant hills, which, breaking one before another, exhibit a succession of chains, till the last, a continuation of the Chiltern range, or the White Horse hills, in Berkshire, gradually dissolves in the almost boundless horizon, on the south-west. Over the portico, which does credit to the Corinthian order, stands a colossal bust of Louis XIV. of France, taken from the gates of Tournay. A glorious trophy to the Victor's fame, A lasting record of the Gallic shame. It is adorned with proper military emblems, and under it is the subsequent inscription, running along the pediment : EI'KUI'T; ll.KC VIM>F\ GKNIO 1)K IIH \ VI. TV BRITANNO.* * Though this inscription has but one obvious, and can have but one consistent meaning, it has, neverUieless, been tortured into various; and the sentence without a verb has been the alternate stumbling-block of THE OBSERVATORY. 21 Which may be rendered, " The liberator of Europe dedicates these lofty honours to the genius of Bri tain." Near the eastern angle, a commodious and elegant Observatory was erected by the third Duke, amply furnished with the best astronomical apparatus, by the justly celebrated Ramsden. A grand telescope, by Herschel, presented to the Duke by his Majesty, soon after the royal visit to Blenheim, in. 1786, and now in the library, may be reckoned a very valuable appendage to an establishment of this kind. From the accurate observations made by Major Mudge, in his measurement of an arc of the meridian, which was carried on during the years of 1800, 1, and % it appears that Blenheim is situated in 51° 50' 27" .9 north latitude, 1* 15* 15" west longi tude. The apartments of this Palace are furnished with princely magnificence : the tapestry and paintings attract universal and deserved attention. The latter are nearly unrivalled for their beauty and value ; and since the recent addition of all the most capital pieces from Marlborough House, unquestionably form the finest collection in this kingdom. In it, indeed, we real ignorance and false criticism; no authorities can avail the former; the latter may be convinced of its propriety by referring to Mneas heec de Danais victoribus arma. A0HNAIOI AIIO MHAQN KAI OHBAIQN. and to other instances of a similar mode of expression, from sources of unquestionable purity, -^ the hall. find some exquisite specimens in almost all the differ ent schools' of painting ; and it is particularly rich in the esteemed productions of Rubens and Vandyck, and of that glory of English painters, Reynolds. But, as it is impossible to do adequate justice to the subject in any general description, we shall conduct our readers through the grand suite of rooms usually open to public inspection, in the order in which they are shown, and enumerate the most celebrated pro ductions of art in each. Here Painting shows the wonders of her art, Gains on the sense, and captivates the heart ; From mimic pencils new creations rise, Start into life, and wear its native dyes ; Bold as the form Prometheus taught to more, When heaven's dread lightning he withdrew from Jove. Here Brussels' looms their boasted skill display, And tapestry armies stand in long array. The vivid tints with war's dread horrors burn : Here, Grief and Shame — there, Rage and Fun turn ; The lengthen'd march — the ramparts rise to sight, And all the kindling glories of the fight. Hail, ye great artists, whose enchanting skill Can mould the passions, and control the will : Not to the eye your labours are address'd — They boast an influence o'er the ductile breast ; For while, entrane'd, each happy touch we view, The moral sense becomes reform'd by you : Beauty and order, harmony and ease, Unite to polish, as they tend to please! * These schools are usually known as the Roman, Venetian, Bologn- ese, Milanese, Lombard, Spanish, French, German, Dutch, Flemish, and English . THE HALL. 23 I.— HALL. Through a superb portico, on massy Corinthian columns, of elegance and dimensions almost unri valled, we enter the Hall, a noble and finely pro portioned apartment, which lies in the centre of the north, or grand front : this is also supported by fluted Corinthian pillars. The ceiling, which is the height of the building, or sixty-seven feet, is painted by Sir James Thornhill, and allegorically represents Victory, with proper accompaniments, crowning John Duke of Marlborough, as she points to a plan of the battle of Blenheim. The Duke is depicted in a blue Roman dress. Over the noble marble door-case that communicates with the Saloon, is a bust of the. same hero, with this inscription :— ECCE VIRUM STABILES GUI GENS AUGUSTA PENATES CUI FRACTAS TANDEM GALLIA DEBET OPES. HIC VETEREM ANGLIACjE VIRTUTI INSTAURAT HONOREM SEU RES CON9ILIO, SEU SIT AGENDA MANU. NON ANIMO AUGUSTUS MELIOR NON JULIUS ARMIS SEU MULCET GENTES> ILLE VEL ILLE DOMAT. BEHOLD THE MAN TO DISTANT NATIONS KNOWN, WHO SHOOK THE GALLIC, FIX'd THE AUSTRIAN THRONE. NEW LUSTRE TO BRITANNIA'S GLORY GAVE; IN COUNCILS PRUDENT, AS IN ACTION BRAVE. NOT JULIUS MORE IN ARMS DISTINGUISH' D SHIN'd, NOR COULD AUGUSTUS BETTER CALM MANKIND. In the gallery above, on the same side, may be seen whole-length portraits of Clara Eugenia, Infanta of Spain, and Governess of the Netherlands; of Queen Anne, by Lely, and of a Lady in a blue dress, by an unknown master. A large collection of family '«.' 1' THE HALL. portraits, not usually shown, occupy the same gallery, which runs the whole extent of the house. Below, in niches near the angles, are the Medicean Venus, and the Dancing Fawn, in bronze, from the originals in the (irand Duke of Tuscany^ collection; and executed with inimitable skill, by Maximilian Soldani Benzi, at Florence, in 171 1. The arcades on the right and left are adorned with marble termini. Below, on a black marble slab, stands a fine antique Diana and Dog, universally ad mired ; and exactly opposite, on a similar slab, is a beautiful Vase, with figures in relievo, from the an tique, supposed to represent the nuptial ceremonies of the Romans. Over the grand staircase is a large picture, by Hudson, of Charles, Duke of Marlborough, and Fa mily ; and beyond the arcades, on the other side of the hall, the first Duke and Family are delineated by the pencil of Closterman. On the right side of the Hall, and connected with a magnificent gilt vane in the external centre, which gives apparent elevation to this part of the building, is a wind-dial. On the opposite side, in shape and size corresponding to the dial, is an elegant new clock, by Des Granges, recently placed there by the present Duke of Marlborough. Both are useful and pleasing appendages. From the Hall, we enter a long gallery, on the right of which, near the entrance, is the Waiting Room, formerly the Billiard Room and small Library, and, of course, not now open to the public. It may BOW-WINDOW ROOM. 25 not, however, be improper to notice that it contains the following pictures : — Gipsies with a Soldier .... Valentino. Dutch Sea Port ..... Uncertain. Over the chimney-piece, of massy white marble :— A capital whole-length picture of Louis XI V. in an easy sitting posture, and graspiug his sceptre .... Mignard. View of Antwerp ..... Minderhout. The Marriage in Cana of Galilee . . Paul Veronese. II BOW- WINDOW ROOM. By the gallery already mentioned, we are con ducted to the Bow-window Room. The famous battle of Blenheim is portrayed in the tapestry on the right, at entrance, and occupies a considerable space. The principal action is confined to the taking of Marshal Tallard. The battle of Wynendael is represented in the tapestry on the left. In this room is a fine bust, called the Laughing Girl, and another, by Bacon, of Antonina, only daughter of Francis, Lord Le Despencer. The pictures are : — Over the first door : — St. Jerome studying, very fine . . . Giorgioni. Over the chimney : — Henrietta Maria, Queen of Charles I. . Vandyck. On a panel to the right : — A fine Head, after Han. Caracci . . Sir Joshua Reynolds. A Head of Lady Anne Churchill . Sir Godfrey Kneller. A small picture of The Assumption . Tintoret. '-'' BOW-WINDOW ROOM. A I, mule ll.ad Rubens. A M.1.I..1,,, v and Child Leonardo da Vinci. Over the second door : — Two Wood Nymphs and :i Satyr . . Uncertain Master. Between two beautiful fluted Corinthian pillars : — A Holy Family, nm.il I . . Ludotico Caracci. Three pendent (aljunti, with miniature Paintings inclosed. On the next panel : — A beautiful etching of a Wood Nymph, by the Princess Royal; given to r.iniline, Duchess of Marlborough, by her Royal Highness the late Queen Dowager of Wirtemburg. \ u allegorical original drawing, by Cipriani, intended as a frontispiece to the second volume of the Gemma JIarlburienses. , Between the opposite pillars : — Our Saviour and the Virgin in the Clouds, with accompaniments Tintoretto. A brilliant Collection, inclosed in one general frame, covered with glass, of twenty-three Miniatures, of different magnitudes, by various Mas ters ; among which are three of the beautiful and unfortunate Mary, Queen of Scots. On the next panel : — An etching, by the late Queen Dowager of Wirtemburg. An original drawing, by Ciiniani — the frontispiece to the first volume of the Gemma: Marlburienscs — the subject from Pliny's Natural History. Over the third door : — A Holy Family, in the finest style Raphael. The ceiling is painted in a novel style of simple elegance, and adorned witli military emblems, by llakewill. The window curtains and furniture are blue silk damask. Under the mirrors that adorn the DUKE'S STUDY. 27 panels between the windows are two marble slabs. At the other end of the room are two elegant Cabi nets ; also, Congreve's patent clock, with extreme detached escapement, and another handsome clock. Beyond this room is a suite of elegant but private apartments, opening to the colonnade on the eastward of the Grand Front. One of these apartments is thickly hung round with a large collection of Cabinet Pictures, chiefly by Teniers, of inestimable value ; but being more calculated for minute examination than for general effect, are not open to the public eye. Ill DUKE'S STUDY.* The hangings of this apartment are straw-coloured painted paper, with a plain border. The paintings, beginning opposite the entrance from the Bow-window Room, are : — I.— 1 A Sleeping Venus and Satyr, with attending Cupids, from the School of Rubens. Time clipping Cupid's Wings Vandyck. Madonna and Child, large Vandyck. St. John reading the Apocalypse Unknown. Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough . Kneller. St. Sebastian Titian. * The Roman numerals I. II. III. refer to the three sides of the apartment, beginning, in each instance, at the side facing the usual en trance : the fourth, and in the grand cabinet the third likewise, is occu pied by the windows and the mirrors. The Arabic characters 1, 2, express the upper and lower rows of pictures on the same side. When the arrangement would not suffer this easy mode of distinction and recollection, the figures are omitted. 28 EAST DRAWING ROOM. 2. Inside View of a Church A Battle, in silver. II.— 1. A Holy I'nmily A Landscape A Holy Family, supposed by •I. A Battle Piece A Spanish Seaport The Children of Israel passing through the Red Sea A Holy Family 111 — 1. Virgin and Child Scene in Switzerland Another King William on Horseback, small. Venus and Adonis, from the School of Rubens 2. The Offering of the Magi Destruction of Pharaoh and his Host, in the Red Sea ..... Orpheus playing to the Beasts A Landscape, very fine The Virgin and Child In this room is a valuable collection of Neefs. Raphael. Francis Mola. Raphael. Weenix. Old Franck. Unknown. Solimene. Van Tempest. Van Tempest. Uncertain. Carlo Dolce. Old Franck. Unknown. Claude. Correggio. bronzes. IV.— EAST DRAWING ROOM. The hangings and furniture, crimson flock paper, resembling cloth ; the ceiling, a slight plain dome, of an oval shape ; the chimney-piece is composed of the richest veined marble. Many of the paintings are extremely fine. Beginning from the door opposite the entrance : — -1. A View in Venice .... Two Female Heads Mary, Duchess of Richmond, half-length . Mary, Duchess of Richmond, with a female dwarf presenting her gloves A Bacchanalian Piece Canalelti. Paul Veronese.Vandyck. Vandyck. Rubens. GRAND CABINET. 2. Our Saviour St. John . Prince Eugene, supposed by An Angel, small size Cattle and Figures A Circular Landscape A Man's Head Lady Ann Churchill A Man's Head .... Four small Landscapes, with Figures, very fine ..... II — 1. Lord Holland .... The Duchess of Buckingham and Family . Villiers, Duke of Buckingham 2. A Fete Champetre Lady Chesterfield A Landscape .... The Circumcision .... Cattle, in various attitudes A Landscape King William III. .... HE — 1. The Rape of Proserpine, very fine, and of large dimensions A View in Venice 2. A Holy Family A View in Venice A View in Venice 29 Carlo Dolce. The same. Kneller. Correggio. Bamboccio. Claude. Titian. Kneller. Holbein. Tillemans. Myttens. Vandyck. Vandyck. Pater. Vandyck. Paul Brylle. Rembrandt. Rosa di Tivoli. Gaspard Poussin . Kneller. Rubens. Canaletti. Canaletti. F. Mola. Canaletti. V.— GRAND CABINET. This magnificent apartment opens to the east and south, and commands the most charming natural scenery. The hangings and furniture are rich crim son damask, with gilding of corresponding splendour : the cornice, in particular, is extremely elegant ; and in the centre of the ceiling is a large circular gilt plume. The chimney-piece is composed of dark- itt) LITTLE DRAWING ROOM. coloured marble, inlaid with white, in ornamental festoons, with an urn, projecting in relievo, which has a fine ellect : over it are a time-piece, some bronze figures, and two very curious jars. Tin; paintings are some of the most superb in any collection, particularly those of Rubens, of whose works there is an unrivalled assemblage in Blenheim. I. — 1. Lot's Departure ont of Sodom ; a present from the town of Antwerp . Rubens. The Return of our Saviour from Egypt . The same. Filial Affection exemplified in the Roman Daughter The same. 2. Portrait of Paracelsus . The same. A Madonna, her head encircled with stars, supposed the .Miraculous Conception, in the finest style — the extended hand is inimitable — the tints are those of life itself . Carlo Dolce. Raphael's favourite Dorothea Raphael- Head of Rubens .... Rubens. Pope Gregory, and a Female Penitent bearing a palm branch . Titian. A Holy Family . . Ludorico Caracci. II. — 1. The offering of the Magi . Rubens. A Madonna standing on a Globe, surrounded by Angels Carlo Maratti. A Holy Family Rubens. 2. A most capital and sweetly. composed picture of our Saviour blessing the Children Rubens. Mark that mild angelic air — The rapture of repose that's there! Virgin and Child . . Rubens. The late Lord Robert Spencer, when a Boy Sir J. Reynolds. VI.— LITTLE DRAWING ROOM. The hangings are deep crimson cloth, with orna mental gilt borders : the furniture corresponding. LITTLE DRAWING ROOM. 31 The head in the centre of the chimney is a delicate piece of sculpture ; the whole is exquisitely finished in white marble. In this room are two curious cabi nets, a beautiful marble slab, and a time-piece. Beginning opposite the entrance from the Grand Cabinet, the paintings are : — I. — 1. The Woman taken in Adultery . . Rembrandt. The Rape of the Sabines, very large and expressive Pietro da Cortona. 2. A small highly-finished family-piece . Gonzales. A Landscape . D. Teniers. A Landscape . . . Guspard Poussin. An Old Woman at her Spinning-wheel, and her Husband warming himself . . Teniers. A Dutch Family . Ostade. II. — 1. Catharine of Medicis, in colours, almost inimitable Rubens. Esther and Ahasuerus . . . Paul Veronese. Wife of Rubens, Eleanor Forman, in the costume of an Archduchess . . . Rubens. 2. Our Saviour and the Virgin in the Clouds, with a Monk paying Adoration . Hannibal Caracci. Two small Landscapes and Figures Ferg. A beautiful little Landscape, with Figures . Wouvermans. A Landscape . . Eglon Vanderneer. Monkeys, in Monks' Habits . . Teniers. A small Landscape . . Vanderneer. A Landscape, small size . . . Ruysdaal. Boors playing at Cards . . . Teniers. Travellers refreshing at an Ale-house Door, with a ViewofDort . . . Cuyp. Curiosity Detected .... Sharpe. Over the fire-place : — III. — 1. A most capital picture of the Virgin and Child, St. John and St. Nicholas, formerly belonging to the Capella degli Ansidei, at Perrugia . Raphael. J2 GREAT DRAWING ROOM, And over it an oval, in chiar* oscuro, from an ancient gem . . Rebecca. Two Views in Blenheim Park . Hofland. Over the door : — I sane blessing Jacob . . Rembrandt. VII.— GREAT DRAWING ROOM. The auleum or hangings, a deep crimson cloth, of the same fabric as in the last apartment, and peculi arly adapted for setting off paintings to advantage. The paintings, commencing from the door facing the entrance from the Little Drawing Room, are : — I. — 1. Portraits of Mrs. Morton and Mrs. Killigxew,two of Charles the Second's favourites, in one picture Sir Peter Lely. King Charles I. on Horseback, his casque or helmet supported by Sir Thomas Morton— size of life ; the chef d'a-uvre of . Vandyck. H— 1. Three Beggar Boys, very expressive . Murilla. Andromeda chained to the Rock, with Perseus just appearing . ... Rubens. Charlesl- • • Vandyck. Rubens' Wile and Child ; a present to the first Duke by the City of Brussels Rubens. Henrietta .Maria, Queen of Charles I. Vandyck. Philip II. of Spain .... Titian Two Beggar Boys, very fine Murillo. 2. The Offering of the Kings . . Rubens. r.corge, fourth Duke of Marlborough, on Horseback Strocklin. The Virgin and Child . Tr , . • Vandyck. A small portrait of George, the fourth Duke of Marlborough The Death of the Virgin, an exquisite painting Guido GREAT DRAWING ROOM. 33 A Holy Family, very line . . . Rubens. The Annunciation . . . Correggio. Mark Morrell, Esq. .... Macarthy. III. — 1. A Family Picture of the late Duke, Duchess, and six Children, namely, Ladies Caroline, Elizabeth, Charlotte, and Anne; the present Duke,* and Lord Henry Spencer. The two youngest, Lord Churchill and Lady Amelia Boyce, were born since this very capital picture, which cost seven hundred guineas, was painted . . . Sir Joshua Reynolds. In this picture Sir Joshua is supposed to have vied with Vandyck in his celebrated family piece at Wilton House, and to have excelled him, as far as grouping and character are concerned. A very animated portrait of Lord Strafford and his Secretary, of which there are two others in this country, all reputed originals ..... Vandyck. In the centre of the very elegant chimney-piece, formed of the richest marbles, is an alto-relievo of * It may not be improper to introduce here the following notification from the Gazette :— Whitehall, May 26th, 1817. — His Royal Highness the Prince Regent has been pleased, in the name and on the behalf of his Majesty, to grant unto the Most Noble George Spencer, Duke of Marlborough, Marquis of Blandford, Earl of Sunderland and Marlborough, Baron Spencer of Wornileighton, Baron Churchill of Sandridge, and a Prince of the Holy Roman Empire, his Majesty's royal licence and authority, that, in order to perpetuate in his Grace's family a surname to which his illustrious ancestor, John, the first Duke of Marlborough, by a long series of tran- scendant and heroic achievements, added such imperishable lustre, he and his issue may henceforth take and use the surname of Churchill, in addition to and after that of Spencer, that he and they may bear the arms of Churchill quarterly, in the first quarter, with the arms of Spen cer, together with a representation of the bearings on the standard or colours belonging to the Honour or Manor of Woodstock, &c. D 34 DINING ROOM% Cupid and Psyche's Marriage, from the antique. A notification is engraved in Greek characters, signifying that Tryphon executed the original. Over this are two Centaurs, in bronze ; two beautiful urns, of Derbyshire spar ; and a curious clock, on a bronze elephant. Under the superb mirrors are large marble slabs. VIII.— DINING ROOM. This apartment is well adapted for its destination, being large, lofty, and commodiously situated, near the centre of the palace. The ceiling is richly stuc coed, and the sides are wainscotted in large panels, finely painted in imitation of oak. The chimney- piece is peculiarly handsome : it supports an elegant clock. Commencing opposite the entrance door from the Great Drawing Room, are the following paintings : — I. — 1. The Rape of Europa Paul Veronese. John, Duke of Bedford . . . Gainsborough. Lord Churchill Owen. George, fourth Duke of Marlborough Cosway. The late Duchess aud Child . Sir Joshua Reynolds. Lady Charlotte Spencer, in the character of a Gip- sey, tellinc, her Brother, Lord Henry Spencer,his fortune • ¦ . The same. George, the third Duke of .Marlborough . The same. •2. Dowager Lady Pembroke . . . The same. Lord Charles Spencer . The same. The Marquis of Tavistock . . . The same _ II.— 1. Lot and his Daughters, in the finest style; a present from the Emperor of Germany . Rubens SALOON. 35 The three Graces, or Rubens' three Wives Rubens. Venus and Adonis ; another present from the Em peror of Germany . Rubens. 2. A Battle Piece .... Wouvermans. Another Battle Piece . . . The same. III. — 1. A most capital and strikingly-characteristic Baccha nalian Piece . . Rubens. Cattle and Figures, in a very capital style Castiglione. Gertrude, Duchess of Bedford . . Dance. Lady Amelia Boyce . . Phillips. Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough . . Sir G. Kneller. Two favourite Dogs . . Bennett. In this room is a fine marble bust of George, the fourth Duke of Marlborough, by Prosperi. IX.— SALOON. This noble and spacious apartment, which commu nicates with the Hall, and together with it occupies the entire breadth of the centre, is highly finished and richly decorated. It is lined in the lower part with marble, in the Italian taste ; and its four door cases are entirely composed of the same beautiful and durable material. Over the doors, which face the four quarters, are the arms of the first Duke. AboVe the marble basement are six compartments, in which different nations of the world are depicted in their characteristic dresses and contours, by La Guerre. These, however, are rather individual caricatures D % 36 GREEN DRAWING ROOM. than natural delineations : they are shown in the fol lowing manner, and said to represent — I. The Painter— French— English*— and Scotch. II. Spaniards. III. Moors and Negroes. IV. Chinese and Tartars. V. Turks. VI. Dutch and Swedes. The ceiling is the height of the building, and is executed by the same artist with peculiar felicity, both in design and performance. It emblematically represents John, Duke of Marlborough, in the career of Victory, arrested by the hand of Peace, while Time reminds him of the rapidity of his own flight. Over the first chimney stands an antique bust of a Roman Consul ; and at the same end of the room, a marble slab, on which lies a finely-sculptured Sleeping Venus. Over the second chimney is an antique bust of Caracalla ; and on another marble slab, Cleopatra and the Asp. On other marble slabs are bronzes of Fame and Mercury, mounted on Pegasi. X.— GREEN DRAWING ROOM. It is hung with tapestry, representing, in vivid * The portrait of the Englishman, which possesses much rubicundily and portliness, is believed to represent Dean Jones, Chaplain to Sarah Duchess of Marlborough. GREEN DRAWING ROOM. 37 colours, some of the military exploits of John, Duke of Marlborough. I. Battle of Dunnewert. II. The Battle of Lisle, on the right of the chim ney — Siege of Lisle, on the left. The French Spy is very expressively delineated. III. Battle of Malplaquet. The eager attention of the person receiving orders is admirably depicted. The paintings, facing the Saloon entrance, are : — Over the door : — A very masterly painting of Meleager and Atalanta . Rubens. On a panel near the window : — The Offering of the Magi . . Lucca Giordano. A Holy Family ..... Nicholas Poussin. Figures, encircled with a Wreath of Flowers . Rothenamer. On the opposite panel : — The Adoration of the Shepherds . . Lucca Giordano. A Madonna and Child .... Nicholas Poussin. Figures, encircled with a Wreath of Flowers Rothenamer. Over the door : — A charming portrait of a young Knight of St. John of Jerusalem Baroccio. A beautiful and curious clock, on a new construc tion, by Vulliamy, stands on the chimney-piece. A serpent bending down its head from the top of a small urn, round which the hours are arranged, points out the time with its sting ; and on the same urn, an elegant figure of Contemplation leaning gives the 38 STATE DRAWING ROOM. whole a singular, and rather monumental air. On each side are Boys' Gambols, in bronze. Above is a highly-finished picture of Caroline, Duchess of Marlborough, in an elegant white dress Romney. Under the mirrors are marble slabs, with numerous china jars, and two urn-shaped chandeliers. On a superb cabinet is a Lion, beautifully sculptured in marble. Opposite is another handsome cabinet. The curtains, sofas, and other furniture, are deep green damask, of great richness and beauty. XI— STATE DRAWING ROOM. This apartment has been, within these few years, decorated, and furnished with the utmost magnifi cence. The ceiling is elegant ; the cornice is richly gilt ; and the border round the room is in a corres ponding style. The mirrors are almost unrivalled in the superlative elegance of their frames ; the magni tude of their plates is likewise very considerable. The chimney is composed of the purest white marble : it is adorned with a rich central urn. In this room are three higlily-finished cabinets. The marble slabs are proportionate to the splendour of the rest. The curtains and furniture are white damask. The tapestry is a continuation of the first Duke's achievements. I. and II. The March to Bouchain. II. and III. The Siege of Bouchain. In this piece, Lord Cadogan's Dog, which attended his master STATE BED CHAMBER. 39 through the campaigns, and returned safely, makes a conspicuous figure. Over the chimney : — George, third Duke of Marlborough, in his Garter Robes . Romney. Over the first door, facing the entrance : — St. Laurence distributing the Ornaments of the Altar II Prete Genoese. Over the opposite door : — A Fruit Piece . . . Lucca Giordano. XII.— STATE BED CHAMBER. In a palace there must be apartments for pomp, as well as for utility : this is one of the former, and very splendid of the kind. The furniture and hang ings are rich blue damask, interlaced with gold. The bed-posts are elegantly fluted, and covered with bur nished gold : their extremities adorned with military emblems. The top rises into a dome, surmounted with a ducal coronet ; at the head are the family arms. The whole designed by Sir Wm. Chambers. Near the foot of the bed stands a small table, of exquisite workmanship, which belonged to Marie Antoinette, late Queen of France. The chimney-piece is decorated with bronzes of Hercules killing the Centaurs and the Hydra ; be tween these is a bust of Diana : over it is A capital picture, representing Seneca bleeding to death, while, with philosophic composure, he dictates to his Amanuensis L. Giordano. 40 THE LIBRARY. On a panel to the right is a fine portrait of Edward VI. . • Holbein. A View of Architecture . • Panini. The Burning of Troy . . • Old Franck. Over each door : - A I'icte nl glill Lid- . • • Maltese. On the slab, under the mirror, is a young Hercules, recumbent, finely sculptured. In this room are a beautiful ebony cabinet and a gold inkstand. From this stately suite of rooms, where the pro fusion of splendid objects is apt to dazzle the organs of sight, the eye is both charmed and relieved on entering XIII.— THE LIBRARY. This very spacious apartment, which occupies the entire West Front, is upwards of one hundred and eighty-three feet long, and is thirty-one feet nine inches wide in the centre. It is impossible to conceive any thing more superb than the solid columns of veined marble, which sup port a rich entablature, the Doric pilasters of the same, the surrounding basement of black marble, and the stuccoed compartments of the lofty vaulted ceil ing, which open a fine field for the pencil of the first master in the pictorial art. This noble room was originally intended as a gal lery for paintings ; but has since been furnished with the grand Sunderland collection of books, comprising THE LIBRARY. 41 upwards of seventeen thousand volumes, in various languages, arts, and sciences ; all arranged in elegant cases, with gilt wire latticed doors, on the east side, through its whole extent, and along the two ends. Few private collections are equal to this in value, the whole being reckoned worth thirty thousand pounds ; yet this is not the only Library in the Palace, nor does it contain more than its proportion of rare and curious books, though it is the only one open to public inspection. The Spencer family, indeed, in all its branches, is distinguished for its literary taste, and the magnificence and extent of its literary treasures. At the upper end of the Library stands a highly- finished white marble statue of Queen Anne, in her coronation robes, by Rysbrach ; on the pedestal is this inscription : — TO THE MEMORY OF QUEEN ANNE ! UNDER WHOSE AUSPICES JOHN DUKE OF MARLBOROUGH CONQUERED, AND TO WHOSE MUNIFICENCE HE AND HIS POSTERITY WITH GRATITUDE OWE THE POSSESSION OF BLENHEIM A. D. MDCCXXVI. In a recess on the west side, is an antique statue, inscribed Julia Domna ; and lower down, another of Diana and Dog, both on mahogany therms. At the lower end, is a bust of Alexander the Great ; a fine specimen of Grecian sculpture, in good l-'-i THE LIBRARY. preservation, dug out of the ruins of Herculaueum, and supported by an elegant modern therm, designed by Sir William Chambers; and, in a recess to the left is a line bust of John, the first Duke of Marlbo- lotigh. On each side of the bow window are antique bronze busts, also on mahogany therms. Over the book-cases on the east side are the subse quent paintings and sculptures. Lord (jodolphin. Duke of Montague. Above the first chimney, a bust of Charles, Earl of Sunderland, the collector of the books : below this, A Sea Piece of Jonah and the Whale, after Poussin. And on the chimney, a bust of the Emperor Adrian. Countess of Sunderland. Countess of Bridgewater. Countess Cowper. Hon. John Spencer. Over the grand marble door-case communicating with the Hall, a bust of Milo Crotonensis. Elizabeth, Duchess of Marlborough. Charles, Duke of Marlborough. Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough. John, Duke of Marlborough. Over the second chimney : — a Girl's Head, an tique. A Landscape, after Poussin Above, a bust of Charles, Duke of Marlborough, by Rysbrach. Queen Anne. King Williai'. THE CHAPEL. 43 From the noble bow-windows on the west, is an elysian prospect of the beautifully-waving descent to the lake, and of the pendent groves on the opposite hill. We here catch a partial glimpse of the Duke's Private Garden, an ample description of which, from the pen of Dr. Bowles, of Faringdon Hall, appears in its proper place. Indeed, every apartment has its appropriate beauties, both internal and external : the eye of taste will, recognize many which the brevity of our plan prevented us from noting ; to the more cur sory observer this Description will prove a useful monitor. One striking ornament, however, we have neglected to remark : the Mahogany Doors through out this whole suite are splendidly finished, and are worthy of the apartments to which they conduct. When open, they form a magnificent vista from the Library to the Grand Cabinet. XIV.— CHAPEL. From the Library, we proceed along a piazza, with arcades below, to the Chapel, situated in the western wing of the Palace. The coup d'ceil on entering is extremely grand, and the impression such as corres ponds with the place. The style of painting and the degree of light are both peculiarly happy : the large compartments of sober grey are finely relieved by the surrounding white ; and the shade of foliage that partially darkens the windows, diffuses an air of com posed solemnity, unmixed with gloom, unaccompanied with melancholy. 44 THE CHAPEL. The chief ornament, however, is a stately Monu ment, in various marble, to the memory of the first Duke and Duchess, by Rysbrach. They are repre sented with their two sons, who died young,* as supported by Fame and History: these are colossal figures, and being most prominent, are the most striking in the group. The pen of History seems to have traced this inscription on a tablet, which she holds in the other hand : — TO THE MEMORY OF JOHN DUKE OF MARLBOROUGH AND HIS TWO SONS HIS DITHE" HA^ ERECTED THIS MONUMENT IN THE YEAR OF CHRIST MDCCXXX1II. Beneath is the taking of Marshal Tallard, in basso- relievo. The altar-piece : — Our Saviour taken down from the Cross . Jordaens, of Antwerp. The gallery for the family is splendidly hung with crimson velvet, fringed with gold. The cushions are corresponding. Over the chimney : — A curious painting on black marble . Alkssandro Veronese. * The eldest son of the great Duke of Marlborough, John, Marquis of Blandford, died of the small-pox, at Cambridge, in the seventeenth year of his age ; and lies buried in one of the aisles of King's College Chapel, where a magnificent altar-tomb is erected to his memory. The first Duke and Duchess, the Marquis of Blandford of the Godolphin family-the first Duke and Duchess of the Spencer family, the late Duke and Duchess of Marlborough, and their eldest daughter, Vis countess Clifden.are all deposited in the family vault under this Chapel, lo which there is an approach through the stable court. TITIAN ROOM. 45 After viewing the Chapel, our conductor takes his leave of us, and we once more find ourselves opposite the North Front of the Palace. We then repass the Theatre and Titian Room, on the right, and leave this splendid Palace by the gate at which we entered. TITIAN ROOM. This apartment adjoins the Theatre, near the en trance of the Gardens, and is ornamented with a superb collection of paintings, by Titian ; a magnifi cent present from Victor Amadeus, King of Sardinia, to John, Duke of Marlborough. These capital performances of this celebrated mas ter, after long lying hidden from public view, are now liberally displayed, chiefly for the sake of amateurs in the pictorial art. They consist of the following series, and are painted on leather : — I. Mars and Venus. II. Cupid and Psyche. III. Apollo and Daphne. IV. Pluto and Proserpine. V. Hercules and Dejanira. VI. Vulcan and Ceres. VII. Bacchus and Ariadne. VIII. Jupiter, Juno, and lo. IX. Neptune and Amphitrite. These figures, which far exceed the size of nature, though they are little encumbered with drapery, cover three sides of the room, and form almost a school of 4G CHINA GALLERY. themselves. It has been remarked, however, that Titian is not happy in expressing female beauty, though he had goddesses to delineate. Indeed, his taste in design is by no means equal to the spirit of his execution and the beauty of his colouring, in which he is almost unrivalled. CHINA GALLERY.* This elegant fabric, erected purposely for the recep tion of the superb collection of porcelain now deposited here, stands close to the Home Lodge, and is separated from the Park by iron palisades. It was fitted up in the year 1796, and presents an additional attraction to the visitors of Blenheim, who delight in the antique, rich, and curious specimens of the porcelain, delf, and japan manufacture. But it is not the connoisseur only who will be grati fied by this display ; no eye of taste can fail to receive satisfaction from the sight of this splendid collection ; nor will the arrangement pass unregarded by the most superficial observer. The gallery, whose external figure represents a cross, is divided into five compartments. The two rooms at each end are fitted up in an octagonal form, and lighted from the top, with the * This choice collection was formed by Mr. Spalding, a valetudinary of moderate fortune, during his travels for several years on the Conti nent, as well as his attendance on sales in this country, and presented by him, on certain conditions, as an appendant to Blenheim. CHINA GALLERY. 47 porcelain regularly arranged- on slight pilasters, or fancifully suspended by brass hooks, against the walls. The centre room which occupies the trans verse of the cross, is circular, and has- a light in the form of a dome in the middle, and a smaller one on each side. This apartment is particularly magnificent. Round the walls are ten panels and twelve pilasters, filled with choice specimens ; and at a proper distance in the area, are eight pilasters and six open stands, with a pyramidal pagoda in the centre, supporting many pieces of singular value or beauty. The whole gallery may be seen at the first entry ; and, from the reflected light, the distribution of parts, and the splendour of the materials, which are here displayed to the greatest advantage, it may not inaptly be compared to the fanciful descriptions of enchanted palaces, in poesy and romance. This assemblage of ancient porcelain consists of an immense quantity of both useful and ornamental arti cles, in every species of that elegant manufacture, from the earliest ages till the art is said to have been lost. Some specimens exhibit its infant state, which, according to the Abbe Raynal, in his History of the Indies, may be reasonably supposed to be three thou-, sand years ago. The remote antiquity of these may be inferred, from the rudeness of the designs and the imperfect crackled appearance of the baking. It is long before art can be brought to any degree of perfection. To glaze and bake in the high style of many pieces in this collection must have required 48 CHINA GALLERY. reiterated attempts, and the experience of years perhaps of ages. Among other varieties, are many of the choicest pieces of the old blue and white, and pale japan brown edge, so much esteemed by the curious. Like wise a numerous assortment of those very scarce and valuable sorts, the antique bleu celeste, and deep purple. It is impossible, however, to enter into a minute description of articles so various and extensive ; but we cannot refrain from particularizing a few, and enumerating the principal sources from which they were drawn, by the ingenious and indefatigable col lector. Among many other pieces deserving attention, are a pair of small bottles, once the property of Queen Anne — A large japan tea-pot, a present from Louis XIV. to the Duke of Richelieu — Two smaller ones, from the collection of the Duke of Orleans, father to Egalite — Some pieces from the late Princess Amelia's cabinet — many from the Portland Museum, and from the celebrated collection of the Duke d'Aumont, at Paris — A singular piece from the Duke of Argyle's curiosities, in a former reign — Several articles from the late Duchess of Kingston's — from Selima, Count ess of Huntingdon's — from M. Calonne's — and M. Beaumarchais' collections. Five ornamental pieces, presented by a Nabob to a Governor of Bengal, in the reign of William III. possess uncommon beauty. A large white tea-pot, once in the possession of Oliver CHINA GALLERY. 49 Cromwell, will be deemed a curiosity ; and it is not uninteresting to observe the different forms of the tea pots in general in this gallery, the metamorphoses they have undergone, and their variations from the present prevailing shape. Two pieces of jasper china, somewhat resembling shells, are remarkably beautiful and rare, as are several of that scarce sort, called honeycomb. It should also be observed, that some specimens are unique in their kind. A collateral room, adjoining the entrance to the gallery, is filled with scarce and elegant specimens of Roman and old earthenware, too numerous to men tion. A delf jar of the latter kind was evidently fabricated long before the Dutch threw off the Spanish yoke, as appears from the dress of the figures. But one of the most singular curiosities is a small piece, representing a fish, which was brought from Athens, and is supposed to be coeval with that celebrated republic. In this apartment, likewise, is a small select collec tion of the finest old black and gold wooden japan ; and a numerous and beautiful assortment of old copper enamels, of the black and white kind, and also in various colours, on subjects both sacred and pro fane, some of them not unworthy of the pencil of Raphael. These slight notices may suffice to show the value and extent of this collection. The curious, and real amateurs, will satisfy themselves as to its peculiar merits. 50 GARDENS. GARDENS.* Stay your rude steps ! whose throbbing breasts enfold Th' insatiate thirst of glory, or of gold ! For you no Dryad decks her roseate bowers, For you her sparkling urn no Naiad pours : Unmark'd by you, light Graces skim the green, And hovering Cupids spread their wings unseen. Darwin. The gardens, or pleasure grounds, occupy an area of three hundred acres and upwards. On part of the north, and the east side, they are surrounded by a sunk fence, which, without breaking the grandeur of the scene, serves to separate the parts that compose it. On the west side, they make a bold descent to the lake, which, falling over a rocky barrier of con siderable height at the south-west angle, formed like wise the southern boundary, before the more recent * " The original Gardens at Blenheim, begun in 1704, were finished in three years, under the superintendence and direction of a Mr. Wise, who likewise made very considerable improvements at Kensington and Hampton Court, under the patronageof Queen Anne. The performances at Blenheim were reckoned the greatest of all his undertakings, and were, indeed, wonderful for the time, as appears from existing plans and descriptions, though in a style now justly exploded." Switzer's Recreations in Gardening, Sfc. The descendants of Mr. Wise, who was gardener to George I. and, with his colleague, Mr. London, published the " Retired Gardener " in 2 vols, in 1706, have long been honourably settled in Warwickshire. " '¦n.v/iji;,,,,-.'' «<¦>¦ ¦a:«jV.'%-1 /.«.•/ I/.-II- „/ /ll.n/,.,,,, ,,..,., .,,; SKAT OF II 11 II 34 ClIsAClH TIHIlK II J II r in K OJK 1MIAIU ILMO IK "." «: HO FLOWER GARDEN. 51 additions of a considerable portion of the adjoining vale, and of the face of the opposite hill. Nature, indeed^ seems to have placed this fine chain, which describes the figure of a bow on the west and south of the river, as the only regular termination of the pleasure grounds, and the line of demarcation between them and the park; The lofty, umbrageous trees, which cover its side and brow, form a noble back ground, and give an unity and finish to the scene. FLOWER GARDEN. The usual entrance into the pleasure-grounds is a little to the left of the eastern gate of Blenheim, the usual approach. The East Front first salutes the view — a chaste and elegant piece of architecture, with a large projecting bow in the centre. Immediately before it lies the Flower Garden, which occupies about an acre of a cheerful lawn of a moderate breadth, but extending a considerable way into the park ; at first fringed with little clumps of -evergreens* encircled and interspersed with flowers and deciduous shrubs, then broken by a few scattered trees, which, rising on different sides of the sunk fence, effectually conceal it ; and afterwards lined by stately trees, that throw a finely-chequered shade on the verdant sward below, and ranging in if regular pomp, preclude stiffness from mingling with beauty. ' The Flower Garden, though obviously a very de lightful and inviting appendage, being so contiguous e 2 .V2 FLOWLR GARDEN. and accessible, is only a recent creation in this spot. On the side next the green-house is a spacious and elegant alcove, commanding the whole of this elysian scene, in which a succession of hardy flowers and shrubs, arranged in twenty oval beds, tastefully dis posed, and including at least two hundred different kinds of roses, fill up the seasons with their varied charms, and offer incense to Flora. From a seat at the extremity of these parterres, fronting the north, is a pleasing view of the Triumphal Gate in one direction, and of the Pillar, which crowns a swelling lawn, in another. The last is particularly attractive. See waving woods their aged arms display, And quivering sunbeams shed a partial day : Long vistas shooting from the wondering eyes, And bloom perennial pour unnumbered dyes ! See flower-crown'd Flora spread her lucid train, And give to Beauty all the smiling plain ; While sylvan Pan, amid the shady trees, Joins in the concert with the swelling breeze. On the lawn, to the right, a small Archery Ground, thirty-five yards in depth, was formed in the summer of 1831, and is surrounded with a hedge of box. A walk of pebbly gravel, of the most beautiful texture and regularity (which, however, prevails in the pleasure-grounds, and blends utility with orna ment), winding to the east, between rising planta tions and clumps of trees and shrubs in various shape, at intervals is opened to a highly-embellished lawn ; and soon taking an easy bend to the south, conducts to the TEMPLE OF HEALTH. 53 TEMPLE OF HEALTH, Charged with the following elegant and loyal inscrip tion, on a highly-polished marble tablet : — DEO MAXIMO CONSERVATOR!, ET PROVlDENTI^E DIVlN^E : OB RECUPERATAM GEORGII TERTII, REGIS OPTIMI, PIENTISSIMI SALUTEM, HOC MARMOR GEORGIUS DUX MARLBURIENS1S EXPLETO DESIDERIO, VOTKJUE COMPOS, IN ALIQUOB GRATI ANIMI TESTIMONIUM, L^TUS, LUEENSQUE DEDICAVIT. ANNO SALUTIS UVMAN£ MDCCLXXXIX. Over the tablet is a beautiful medallion of his Majesty. This structure is adorned with Corinthian capitals. It emerges from a small thicket, which backs it and determines its site, and, without imposing the idea of solitude, renders it sufficiently sequestered. Before we reach this Temple, the Triumphal Arch and Woodstock Tower are seen in pleasing per spective. From hence, the scene gradually changes. Instead of embellished lawn, we become embosomed in trees of venerable majesty, some of the oaks having been tenants of the spot they now occupy for upwards of a thousand years. The park and gardens seem to unite, or, rather, their distinction is lost. The trim- 54 THE SPRING. i less of the walk, and the occasional sight of ever greens, alone discriminate the latter. The parts unite, And strength of shade contends with strength of light. Open grove, at an agreeable distance, on each side, continues for a considerable space. The whole is a delightful home-walk, sheltered, by the winding of its direction, from every blast : possessing sufficient variety in every part, with an aspect continually improving. By slightly wending our way to the right, passing the back of the Aviary, nature and art seem to have combined in forming a vista, from which the distant and beautiful Spire of Kidlington is plainly seen. We then enter a new plantation and garden, and proceed along the gravel walk, till we approach a spring, bounded by a lawn, dotted over with magno lias, ailanthirs, arbora Juda?, and many other beautiful and sweet-smelling shrubs, the best calculated for this sheltered spot. This spring* is formed into a piece of water, and filled with hardy aquatics. An * Mr. Faraday, of the Royal Institution, Albemarle-street, London, has lately analyzed this newly-discovered spring, the contents of which aro : — Free carbonic acid. Carbonate of lime, held in solution. Sulphate of lime, a little. Muriate of soda. Carbonate of soda, a small proportion. A pint of the water contains only S, 2 grains of salts; so that the water may be considered as of considerable purity amongst those ob- tained from natural sources. KITCHEN GARDENS. 55 alcove, most tastefully formed, overlooks this en chanting spot. 'Tis here that strangers from their secret hoard The pic-nic serve around the cheerful board, The Alcove filled with spirits grave and gay, The Lawn attracts the young to sport and play. Refreshment o'er, again they all advance, With strength renewed, and ready for a dance. We now proceed along a gravel walk into a wood, newly planted, and encircled by an arboretum, twelve acres in extent, which, together with the wood itself, contains every description of forest trees, natives of the coldest climates in Europe, Asia, and America, and sufficiently' hardy to bear our severest winters. These trees are partly intermixed with the plantation, but principally planted in groves, upon grass plots. Soon after we enter the wood, we pass in review a long grass walk, twenty feet wide, which forms a vista, looking on the river and woods above it. One of the ancient forest oaks here presents itself, with the trunk only remaining, to tell the tale of its former greatness ; this tree was discovered in a blaze, sup posed to have been struck by lightning about six years ago, and, although its interior is completely charred, still its branches seem to flourish. Near this spot is the Palladian Gate, or entrance into the KITCHEN GARDENS, Where the eye darts over a cheerful landscape to the south. On this side, the walls of the Kitchen Gar dens, which are fourteen feet high, are concealed by 5i) THE AVIARY. irregular plantations of laurels and other shrubs, thinly scattered with forest trees. From the gate, we trace their vast extent clothed with the choicest fruit trees; we behold an area of eight acres, while four more remain unseen, furnished with every article of culinary use, or of elegance in the dessert, and replete with every requisite appendage for bringing it to perfec tion. The hot-houses are constructed on an excellent principle, and produce the finest pines and grapes. Art here amply supplies the want of a warmer sky. The site of the old Conservatory, which occupied an angle fronting the south, is now converted into an orchard of choice fruit trees. From this spot we regain the gravel walk, bounded on one side by the plantation, and on the other by groves of exotics recently planted, pass an aged oak, so tenderly locked in the embraces of an ivy, as to have lost its life in the struggle for mastery ; the ivy tree, for such it is become, is extremely large and curious. Proceeding a short distance, and turning to the right, we again reach the spring and alcove, but the onward course, inclining to the left, leads us to THE AVIARY. It stands on a spot formerly called the Duchess's Flower Garden. This edifice, designed by Mr. Hakewill, is stocked with gold and silver pheasants, curious doves, and other birds. GARDENS. 51 Leaving the Aviary on the right, we now pass through the open grove on the left, and catch a glimpse of the south front of the Palace, which is thrown into various perspective as we advance. Here the stranger cannot fail to notice the stately cedar trees, growing with a luxuriance unequalled by any in this kingdom. In other directions, we enjoy a picturesque view of Beckley Hill, just peeping over the inter vening heights ; of Wytham's lofty woods, rising to the summit of Botley, where the trees range in solitary state : and through the long perspective of a rich champaign, in which Ensham Tower forms a very conspicuous object, when illumined with a morning sun, the distant White Horse Hills are seen to elevate themselves into a back-ground. Nor are remote pictures alone attractive at this hour : the deep shade that darkens the neighbouring village of Bladon is finely contrasted with the level beams that glance on the water below. At every changing season of the day, indeed, some new beauty is developed, or the scenes are thrown into a different perspective, by the aid of light and shade. The evening sun is not less propitious than the morning for giving a brilliant effect to objects in this delightful perambulation. We then approach the entrance to the Duke's Private Garden, turning to the right repass the South Front of the Palace, and are thus imperceptibly brought to the spot at which we entered. 58 PRIVATE GARDENS. PRIVATE GARDENS. The Duke, who is known to possess more botanical taste and skill than any other nobleman in the king dom, is now laying out a very large piece of ground, which, when finished, will be the finest botanical and flower garden in England. Here we cannot avoid regretting that at present strangers can only become acquainted with the beau ties of these gardens by description. When finished, they will doubtless be opened for the admission of occasional visitors. Their being at present closed from public view should be attributed to the proper cause — the impossibility of carrying on improve ments of this extensive nature amidst the continued interruption of those who are constantly arriving at Blenheim. At the east end of the Palace is a room of thirty feet in length, recently fitted up by the present Duke. The sides and the ceiling are of Waterloo blue puck ered drapery, ornamented at intervals by black rosettes, and a large rosette of the same material in the centre of the ceiling, from which all the ribs of the drapery diverge. This room looks immediately on the Arcade Flower Garden and a Pavilion of an octagon form, lately erected, entirely composed of various coloured woods, with their natural Lark. This is supported by columns of yew, with a covered colonnade around it. Two other apartments are now PRIVATE GARDENS. 59 added ; the one a Withdrawing Room, fitted up entirely with a Japan wainscoting, round a painted representation of the Tiger Hunt in India, with the landscape of which every beautiful plant of that country is given from nature, either on the banks, or floating on the surface of the Ganges. The Refectory is in imitation of an Italian Dining Room, of Verd d' Antique and Sienna marble, with corresponding columns and door-cases. The doors are of polished Blenheim oak, and the floors tesselated with similar oak and with acacia, also grown in Blenheim Park. These apartments open immediately to the Gardens, and we copy from the pen of Dr. Bowles, of Faringdon Hall, the following description of this charming, picturesque "spot, the whole embellishments of which are executed not only under the inspection of his Grace, but by his constant direction and co-operation. " The favoured visitor who may obtain permission to view this truly classic ground will find new beauties opening upon him at every step, and will be inex pressibly delighted with the skilful combination and re-combination of every thing that is beautiful in land scape gardening. He will every where meet with the strong and brilliant conceptions of a highly-culti vated mind, to whom each mode of landscape, each nice gradation of effect, is perfectly familiar ; and who, having culled from the rich storehouse of a chaste and singularly-gifted imagination the most elegant forms which are to be found in nature, has arranged and combined them in one harmonious whole. C)0 TERRACE GARDEN. " We first enter the Arcade Flower Garden, in which, choice flowers, the gems of earth, 1 With rich inlay Broider the ground.' " Hence we pass to the New Holland, or Botany Bay Garden, which consists of Mimosas, Metrosideros, Pittosporums, and the most curious and beautiful plants from New Holland and Norfolk Island. " The Chinese Garden is adjoining, in which all the most curious of the Camellia tribe and other valu able Chinese shrubs are planted out in the natural ground, and covered by a moss house during the winter months. The walk then leads to views of Handborough steeple, the lake, the extensive forest on the opposite side, and at one point catches a beautiful vista to the High Lodge. The charm of contrast, the surest source of beauty, is continually occurring, and yet so exquisitely arranged that the delighted spectator, although bowing before the shrine of art, believes himself to be admiring the handy works of nature. ' Here Nature sees her fairest forms more fair, Owns them as hers, yet owns herself excelled.' " From this Garden, which is about eight acres, we proceed to the Terrace Garden, where the charac ter of the scene changes, and becomes one of grandeur united with beauty. Clumps of the choicest Ameri can and other hardy and exotic plants ornament and appear to hang on the slopes, which descend with bold yet easy swells, to the lake ; — mighty oaks, the noblest productions of nature, with delicate flowers ROSE GARDEN. 61 nestled at their roots ; — aged trees, whose rugged and hoary trunks are clad in vests of dark and luxu riantly green ivy, and round whose naked arms the honeysuckle winds its spiral coil, Recompensing well The strength it borrows, with the grace it lends ;' — thousands of forest trees, which, in all their mag nificent varieties, crown the heights on the opposite side of the lake, and descend thence to the water's edge, all combine to form a scene of peculiar grandeur. This noble Terrace commands views of nearly the whole extent of the lake, the woods beyond it, and the column. " The present Duke, the Claude of Landscape Gar dening, has arranged the points of view with such consummate skill, that every view is a complete pic ture, in a style of beauty consistent with itself, and with the characteristics it requires. " We then enter the Dahlia Garden, where all the varieties of these plants, amounting to nearly two hundred sorts, are planted together round a clump of about half an acre. " This walk leads to the Rose Garden, where more than one thousand sorts of Roses, standard and dwarf, all redolent of sweets and prodigal of beauty, are planted. Here we have a view of the fountain and cascade : after passing a grotto, and from the beauti ful banks of the lake, viewing the American clumps and borders, we proceed with ' devious steps and slow,' through this ' Paradise of sweets,' to a new F 62 ROCK GARDEN. Garden, called the ' Flora Petr^a,' or Rock Garden ; on approaching the entrance to which, an apparently insurmountable barrier of solid rock pre sents itself, and would seem to forbid all further progress. ENTRANCE TO THK RUCK GARDEN. " A slight touch of the hand, however; displaces a mass of rock, which revolves, as if by magic, on its axis, and admits us to a spot in the highest style of picturesque beauty. This fairy region may not unaptly be called the romance of nature, and although known to be a fiction, has every appearance of reality. Vast masses of rock, seemingly covered with the thick ^A( v ; ' ' ¦ 1IHPII"" '"""illFl! 32 % 1=1 22 y ROCK GARDEN. 63 moss of centuries, have been transposed, combined, and bhifted into a thousand different forms. In some parts they form rude seats and grottoes ; in others, steps hewed in the rock lead to views which abso lutely foil description ; the astonished spectator here beholds all the rare rock plants which will vegetate in the temperature of this climate, brought from their Alpine solitudes, and placed, by a master's hand, where they no longer ' blush unseen, and waste their sweetness on the desert air.' Choice rock flowers, with scented breath, rejoicing in their indwelling life, and enshrined, in their own beauty, adorn the rude rock with their flexile garlands, ' As pearls upon an Ethiop's arm.' " From this Garden the prospect looks ' as if for a banquet all earth were spread.' The woods, which overhang the lake, stretch far away until they are lost in sweet obscurity, delighting the eye with their beau tiful lights, softening off all along the sides of the forest, their depth and clearness of shadow, their harmony of colouring, and the rich blending of the whole. The woods, the rock work, the splendid lake, the gorgeous towers of the Palace, the distant flower and terrace gardens, the porphyry fountain, all com bine, with many other beautiful objects, to give a rich view, unequalled by any other situation in this king dom ; and presenting the lovely, the magnificent, and the wild, mingled in beauty and in majesty. The spectator stands entranced, by the silent magnificence f 2 61- SWISS COTTAGE. of nature and art which surrounds him, whilst deli cious perfumes, flung from the innumerable flowers and the wild thyme with which the rocks are studded, and the soft murmuring sound of the neighbouring fountain, as softly sweet it steals upon the ear, all give their influence to the scene on which the eye is reposing, and produce a feeling of deliciously com plete delight, a dreamy deliquium of the soul, which ' brings down hours to moments,' and steeps the senses in luxurious forgetfulness." On the confines of this Garden is a small unob- truding Swiss cottage, the residence of the watchman to the Private Gardens, on viewing which the mind is carried back to the early delights of reading the story of Robinson Crusoe and his cottage of bark. SWISS COTTAGE. SYLVAN BOWER. 65 " Immediately adjoining the Rock Garden," con tinues the writer from whom we have quoted, " and approached by a walk embellished with fragrant thyme and heath flower, springing from detached masses of rock, is the Templum Nemorale, or Druids' Temple. Here is an altar, formed by an immense tablet of rock, and supported by huge pillars of un hewn stone, overgrown with moss. The altar has so much the appearance of having been built by the hands of other days, that the imagination, already excited by the wondrous beauties of the place, carries us back to the far olden time, ' When, with muttered Celtic rhyme, The white-haired Druid, bard sublime, Mid the stillness of the night Wak'd the sad and solemn rite.' W. L. Bowles. " A little in advance of the Rock Garden, and to the right of the cascade, is a wild and solitary Sylvan Bower, in which stands a noble elm, called by Sir Walter Scott, the ' Trysting Tree.' An evergreen screen of laurels encircles and conceals its precincts, and from this sweet retreat is beheld a scene of great and varied beauty. The Rock Garden forms a bold and rugged back-ground, quite in the style of Sal vator Rosa, whilst the foaming waters are heard sounding down the cataract, and rushing on to min gle with the adjoining river. To the right a noble wood rises boldly and abruptly to the view, and in front the scene opens well upon a tranquil and sweet 66 GARDEN OF SPRINGS. embosomed valley, aptly called the Valley of Streams, and through which flows the river Glym, ' Inlaying as with molten glass the vale.' " In the centre of the stream is a romantic island, girt with its silver zone of living waters. On the island, which is approached by a rustic bridge, is placed an appropriate temple, overshadowed by trees ; in the distance is a magnificent stone bridge, of which Sir William Chambers was the architect. To the left are easy sweeps of descending side-grounds, with a variety of well-defined distances, interspersed with clumps of forest trees. The Noble Proprietor, with his usual good taste, has carefully avoided any inter ference with the pure simplicity of nature, although both the natural and incidental beauties of the scene are all brought into view, and are the more pleasing as they are within an easy range of the eye. " From the Flora Petrsea, we pass through grottoes and rock -like avenues, to the Garden of Springs, through which a beautiful trout stream pours its crystal flood. " In the centre of the stream are pyramids of corals and shells, from the Mauritius, which afford shade and protection to the finny people, and heighten the beauty of the scene. Leaving this, we pass over a bridge, and come immediately to a newly-discovered spring, which gushes its liquid tribute into a fountain, enriched with the most beautiful shells, and sur rounded by a costly pedestal of solid porphyry. " THE NEW BRIDGE. 67 We regret that this very beautiful description of some of the recent improvements in the Private Gar dens here terminates ; we must, therefore, content ourselves with observing that near this spot was the Home Walk, a part of which is now included in these Gardens ; and next we enter the Sheep Walk, which is one mile in length, and through its whole ex tent abounding with rural imagery: this space, though possessing features of characteristic negligence, is not less rich nor less animated than the most favourite spots in these Gardens. It was formerly open to the park, but is now separated from it by a sunk fence and iron palisades, which extend to the New Bridge, and thus give greater seclusion to the spot. Proceeding : — in one place, the New Bridge, as it is called, appears broken and ruinous by the bend of a tree that overhangs the bank ; in another it shows its arches entire, and even the lower visible reach of water is seen sparkling through its balustrades j farther the centre arch alone is perceptible, and some times the whole is lost. Such is the effect of grouping and combining ! The lawn is sprinkled with beautiful groups of trees ; the majestic oak, with pendent inclination to the stream, is the frequent ornament of the slope. About the middle of this walk, the top of Hand- borough spire,* though nearly three miles off, appears * It is almost unnecessary to remark, that from the growth or decay of trees, objects, in a few years, will either be disclosed or concealed, or changes in picturesque scenery take place, for which either the natural or artificial painter cannot always provide. Accuracy in delinea- 68 THE CASCADE. emerging from the bosom of the deep wood beyond the lake. Near this spot, we may pause to contemplate the beauties which the changing scene displays. Nothing can be more picturesque than Bladon, when gilded with an evening sun : the battlemented tower, and here and there the end of a building, glow with the crimson of his beams ; or the window, partially shaded by intervening trees, reflects them like living fire. Claude would have caught the tints with rap ture ; he would have combined the objects into a picture ; and on its effect he might have rested the immortality of his fame. CASCADE AND ITS ACCOMPANIMENTS. A little farther on is the first opening of the Cas cade ; and for some space it forms a principal attrac tion. The water seems to burst from the deep wood that bounds the head : its course is totally hid by the bend, by the figure of the banks, and the effect of plantation. Every step we descend towards the Cascade the embellishments thicken, the scene be comes more illustrious. Groups of acacia, cedar, poplar, chestnut, and beech, decorate the declivity down to the river ; and beyond it, at a proportionate distance, the back-ground, as far as the commence ment of the new Garden, is adorned with a profusion of hawthorns, surmounted by noble pendent trees, tions and descriptions ought always to be attempted ; but the reason assigned will prevent the most careful from attaining it. PRIVATE GARDENS. 69 which, stretching round as far as the eye can reach, terminate in the near horizon. But before we sink into the vale, it will not be unpleasing to take a retrospective view of the land scape we are leaving behind. The lofty spire of Kidlington church seems to belong to the park ; the distant hills, formerly observed, are cast into different perspective ; and a new and wider range is displayed, farther than the natural vision can distinguish objects. The obelisk of the Fountain soon peeps between a little woody island and the Cascade ; and the grand River, which, a few paces before, was invisible, bursts at once on the eye in a broad sheet, without apparent continuity or connexion. Before we reach the termination of the sheep walk, we lose the Cascade on the left ; to it, however, we at last descend, be tween clumps and groups of the most luxuriant and delicate trees of various climes, intermixed with flowers and shrubs of the utmost fragrance and beauty. The ground, which at first is highest on the left, soon assumes a determined superiority on the right. It is thrown into masses with a masterly hand ; it has received every embellishment that refined taste can confer on natural beauty ; and we enjoy the touch of art, without waking the idea that revolts at its flaunt ing display. Here various trees compose a chequer'd scene, Glowing in gay diversities of green; There the full stream, through intermingling glades, Shines a broad lake, or falls in loud cascades. In the vicinity of the cascade, whose sides are 70 NEW GARDEN. finely shaded, the water is quite lost above. Even from the bridge that fronts it at fifty feet distance, we only see the fall, without tracing the supply. The charming reach below appears in its most varied fea tures from this bridge, which connects the gardens : and when the full stream devolves from the rocky barrier, and bounds from one point to another in foamy pride with deafening roar, nothing can be more grateful to a contemplative mind than such a scene, and such a situation. Down the steep fall devolve the foaming tides, Unfading verdure clothes th' aspiring sides. Emblem of life ! where waves on waves arise, While Hope looks up, and views serener skies, Where still the troublous sea incessant roars, And still Hope flatters, as we eye the shores. NEW GARDEN. The New Garden, which we now enter, though of no very great extent, contains many beauties peculiar to itself, many views of magnificent and appropriate scenery. Following the course of the river on the left, we soon reach Newfound Well, a mineral spring of the chalybeate kind, said to possess very active virtues, before they were weakened by the expansion of the lake, whose waters are now supposed to mix with it. In the front of a dark clump rises a pedestal supporting an urn, and from an aperture in the for mer gushes the spring ; and being received into an antique basin, charged with numerous fancy figures, in alto relievo, much injured, flows out near the top by the mouths of two lions, and quickly mixes with THE FOUNTAIN. 71 the river. Again we have a view of the New Bridge, and of a serpentine reach of water, embracing the island, and gliding on with glassy smoothness. THE FOUNTAIN Next attracts our notice. There river-gods reclin'd, at ease explore' A scene more lovely than their native shore ; Confess Hesperia boasts no charms that vie With the bright landscapes which around them lie. It is situated at the bottom of the hill, and forms an object not unworthy of its place and destination. In the centre of an elegant capacious basin, where marble dolphins seem to sport, stands the base, formed of a species of porous stone, permeable by the water, and thrown together in rude pomp, with a cavern from east to west, from which appear to issue a lion and a sea-horse, the attributes of Europe and Africa, finely designed. On the four extremities of the rock, which support the obelisk, are four river-gods, sculptured in white marble, with a delicacy and expression not to be sur passed. These are intended to represent the Danube, the Nile, the La Plata, and the Ganges, the four principal rivers of the different quarters of the globe. The Danube rests his right leg on an oar* — The Nile veils his head with classical propriety — The * In the Vatican, at Rome, is an ancient sculpture of the Tiber, in the same attitude. May not Bernini have intended that river, instead of the Danube ? 72 THE FOUNTAIN. American River-God lifts up his left hand and eyes in surprise, as if first made known to the rest of the world — The Asiatic River-God, with a placid look, stretches out his hand to a serpent crawling, and to a shell. This last seems to be a different design from the original, where the Ganges is represented as re cumbent, crowned with sedge, and a rudder between his legs, with the palm tree behind. The following arms appear on one side of the base of the obelisk : --Under a coronet in a border of lions and castles, per saltier, for Castile and Leon, two baskets and five. On the opposite side, in a border of saltiers, under a coronet, two wolves, with lambs in their mouths. Above, on the square pedestal of the obelisk, which is of white marble, is the subsequent inscription, in four different languages, Latin, Greek, Italian, and Spanish. AD INNOCENTIUM XI. SUMMUM PONTIFICEM PRO. CAROLO. II. HISPANIARUM REGE EXCELC: D. D. GASPAR: DE HARO, ET GUZMAN. 1IURCHIO. DE. CARPIO. ET IIELICHEO ORATOR. AD TVPUM MOHS. IN AGONALI FORO ERECT/E. AH EQU1TE. HERN1NO. OPUS. HOC. EXSTRUI. JUSSIT, EODEM. DIRICENTE. QUI. INTERIM. DUM PERFICl.RETUR. DEFUNCTUS. nor: rosTHUMO. parti : inexiiaustvu. MENTIS. I'OECUNDITATEM CLAUSIT. anno d: m: DC : lxxxi. This fine piece of sculpture, the last work of Ber nini, and a copy from the magnificent fountain in the THE FOUNTAIN. 73 Piazza Navona, at Rome, was a present from the Spanish Ambassador at the Papal court, to the first Duke of Marlborough. It has only been recently erected ; and during the many years it lay neglected, was much damaged, and part of its characteristic ap pendages and adjuncts lost. Still, however, it bears a close resemblance to the noble original ; proves an ornament to the gardens, and the admiration of spec tators. From the. Fountain, the path meanders up hill. The left is open to the charming vale through which the river glides : the right is occasionally shaded by groups of trees. Almost every step presents a new scene : the transitions are sudden, but never harsh ; even the strong contrast between the elegant sculpture we have just left, and the wild rock-seats that occupy the brow, gives an additional impression to each. Above these is a noble view into the park : the High Lodge, with its antique battlements amidst an amphi theatre of venerable trees, is a striking object in the landscape. From this spot we wind to the right, and fresh beauties again arrest the attention. To paint every change of scenery that presents itself in the space of a hundred yards would be impossible ; the impression can only be conveyed by the eye — the happiest description would fail. At one point we have a glimpse of the river ; at another, perhaps, it is lost ; the turrets of the Palace just emerge ; an ex panse of water, with a forest line of wood, draws the view ; and, at a few paces distance, the Palace, the 7'!' THE FOUNTAIN. river, the two principal bridges, and the fine terrace on the west of the gardens, all strike the beholder with irresistible beauty and attraction. At this spot, the sublime predominates in a very high degree ; and frigid indeed must that taste be which will not feel and confess the energy of the scene. When the rising sun throws its horizontal rays on the gilded orbs of Blenheim, the tops of the trees catch his ra diance, and the withdrawing shade lightly floats on the surface of the lake ; nature does not furnish a picture of more brilliancy than this. A little farther, and the intervening groups allow only glimpses ; again, the prospect opens, the park displays its sylvan honours on the north, and on the east the Chiltern hills bound the sight. At the utmost extent of vision is Winchendon, formerly the seat of the Duke of Wharton, now the property of the Marlborough family. There is something grand in the idea : the vast space between is swallowed up ; and fancy, combining the distant domains in the same landscape, gives a sanction and a solution to the magnificence around. On the right, as we turn down towards the Iron Bridge, stands 1'Arrotino, or, as it is usually called, the Listening Slave, a fine cast in bronze, from the antique, by Benzi. Descending to the river, from distant views the transition becomes instantaneous to near ones. The water is seen flowing round to the cascade : the bank on the right is abrupt and rocky, chiefly planted with sumach ; on the left, it is PRIVATE GARDENS. 75 adorned with the fairest rising plantations, which are yearly rendering the spot more characteristically romantic. ' all around Umbrageous grots, and caves of cool recess, And murmuring waters down the slope dispers'd, Or, held by fringed banks, in crystal lakes, Compose a rural seat of various view. Milton. At a short distance from the Listening Slave is another fine cast, also by Benzi, of the Roman Wrestlers. We now continue our delightful progress, until we have completed a walk of above three miles, during which we meet with several rustic and other curious and appropriate seats, and a temple, dedicated to Diana, of beautiful and stately structure, designed by Sir William Chambers. In the front are four pillars with Ionic capitals ; and on the pediment is this dedication : — APTEMIAI. ArPIAI-IAAI. OPESTIAAI. " To the Ionian, rural, mountain-ranging Diana." On the back within, is a central medallion, repre senting, in bas-relief, Hippolytus offering a wreath of flowers to Diana ; and on two others, united to this by a festoon, are the subsequent verses, from the 76 PRIVATE GARDENS. Hippolytus of Euripides, with the annexed elegant E igl's'i version, by Jacob Bryant, Esq. 2oi t6v$i irXtKrbv ar'tQavov IZ aicnpdrov Anpiovog, w Siairoiva, KoaphaaQ (pepw, "Ki'V ovre iroipijv u*ioi tpipfitiv /3or«, Our' ij\0e ttoi aib~np0Q, a\\' oucriparov MeXtaaa \fi/*wi/ rjpivbv cisp\erai, Altaic ce Trorapiaiai Kn7rtvti > puvoic.. To thee, bright Goddess, these fair flowers I bring, A chaplet woven from th' untainted mead, Thy cool sequester'd haunt, where never yet Shepherd approach'd ; where the rnde hind ne'er heav'd Th' unhallow'd axe: nor voice nor sound is heard, Save the low murmuring of the vernal bee. The day-spring from above the dew distils, Genial and mild, from the pure stream exhal'd, On every fragrant herb and favourite flower. Here is also another Temple, lat.^y erected, and dedicated to the Goddess of Health. Our limits will not permit us to describe justly the beauties of this elysium, the local advantages of which can no where be exceeded. All the gardens are dotted over by clumps, or bordered by plantations of shrubs from Siberia, Mount Caucasus, and the northern parts of China, India, and the Brazils. — When completed, the new enclosure will contain fifty acres. Several thousand loads of bog earth, for the use of the American clumps and borders, have already been brought into the garden, and it will RIVER. 77 require about two thousand more to complete it. The geraniums, the most lasting in bloom of all the flowery tribe, are planted in small clumps, each containing a distinct species, and they remain in full luxuriance of flower and foliage from May to the November frosts. All the clumps are surrounded with borders of seed ling oaks, kept constantly cut. RIVER.* The River, which covers the whole extent of a spacious valley, bending in the happiest style, and affording the most profuse variety of features in the sublime, the picturesque, the beautiful, and the tranquil, when viewed. with its accompaniments, is indisputably the most superb piece of artificial water in this king- * If the words river and lake are sometimes applied to the same thing, it is hoped the reader will not impute this to ignorance or error : the water at Blenheim partakes of the nature of both ; it is a river, because it has a progressive motion ; it is also a lake, because it spreads far beyond its original channel. Thus uniting the distinguishing beauties and characteristics of each, it rises to the pre-eminence of sublimity. It is proper, however, to remark, that it generally receives the name of the Lake from its commencement, to the grand bridge, and of the Great Water down to the cascade. The whole is stocked with abundance of fine fish, such as pike, perch, carp, tench, &c. Pikes have sometimes been caught here weighing nearly 301bs. These may be truly called " the tyrants of the watery plain." In a certain part, several years ago, 150 brace of fine carp and tench were drawn up in one net by the fisherman. 78 RIVER. dom. It is chiefly supplied by the Glyme,* which still, in a great measure, retains its original direction, its channel being expanded rather than altered : so favourable has nature been to the operations of art ! It enters the park in the vale which separates Old from New Woodstock, flowing under a belt of rising plantations, and issuing to light by a bridge of seven arches, the minuteness and multiplicity of which have been thought to derogate from grandeur, though the whole is well adapted to give the idea of a supply equal to the magnitude of the lake. In other points of view, a thick grove, and beau tiful groups of Lombardy poplars, and other trees that love the streams, by concealing the source, promote the same desirable effect. The banks at first are low : on one side they soon become bold and winding ; on the other, they have little elevation, but are happily varied. The lake, quickly spreading to a great expanse, stretches towards Queen Pool,t where it forms a small creek, with various islets, stews, buildings, and enclosures, chiefly lost in trees ; then taking a deter mined course, it seems to seek the opposite shore, in * The Glyme rises near Heythrop Park, the seat of the Earl of Shrewsbury, and flowing past Kiddington and Glympton, or the town or village on the Glyme, washes Wootton, and soon after receiving Barton brook, winds round towards Woodstock, through whose willowy meads it runs in several channels, which unite in Blenheim lake. f So called from Philippa, Queen of Edward III. The Fisherman's Houso and appendages, ninl the adjoining duckery, usually containing some very curious species, deserve notice hero. RIVER. 79 its progress flowing round Queen Elizabeth's Island,* a most delightful spot, clothed with aquatic trees and shrubs, of the utmost beauty and variety, which con nect the groups on the banks ; and soon becoming embayed on the left, it winds round to the Grand Bridge, narrowing, as it advances, to an adequate breadth with that noble structure. THE GRAND BRIDGE. ^H-t ^L^SXI tJVx^i?^' * This is part of the ancient causeway leading to the old Manor House, which stood about one hundred yards farther north. The Lom- bardy poplars planted here begin to acquire too determined an ascend ancy over their congeners; and are too much spread over the surface. A few, closely planted, and forming a single group, may frequently embellish a landscape ; but seen individually, they are more proper to conceal defects than to increase the beauties of the scene. G 2 80 RIVER. From the Bridge,* a most capital expanse of water again catches the eye ; an expanse unrivalled by the finest English river, t unmixed with the sea ; and which, washing the remote banks, varies with their direction, makes a long diversion up a vale that forms a right angle with its bed, and affords the representa tion of a collateral stream : then rolling a seemingly enlarged volume, it winds round, and washes the foot of the declivity on which part of the gardens lies ; and on the other side it is bounded by a considerable hill, feathered down with a noble wood to the water's edge, and frequently reflected on its surface. Crystal lakes, O'er which the giant oak, himself a grove, Flings his romantic branches, and beholds Ilis reverend image in th' expanse below. Mason. Preserving one general, unvarying direction, for a considerable length, it gradually narrows ; and viewed from the grand bridge, appears land-locked and em bayed. Several pleasure vessels, of various construc tion, riding at anchor, swans sailing in conscious pride, and other aquatic fowl, indigenous as well as * A description of which is given at page IS. t Brown, who superintended the early improvements here, in his usual consequential manner, lias been heard to boast, " That the Thames would never forgive him for what he had done at Blenheim." Had he lived till the present lime, he would have been sensible how much his most finished labours may bo surpassed. RIVER. 81 foreign, unite to enliven the watery scene. When tranquil, the reflected and inverted images in the stream present a picture which fancy contemplates with mild delight ; when agitated with winds, its rippling bosom and wavy dash are lively emblems of the sea, to which it then bears some resemblance. At the point where it appears embayed, it passes under a light iron bridge, simple and unadorned, and characteristic of its destination ; and making a pretty sudden bend, it tumbles down a barrier of massy rocks, with a force equal to its copiousness ; and with a fall of eighteen feet perpendicular, and twenty- seven with the angle it forms. Above this cascade are a hundred and fifty acres of water : below it is a continuation of a hundred more. Recovering its level, the river flows with a serpen tine sweep through an expanded vale, embellished with scattered groups of flourishing young planta tion ; and, at an agreeable distance, stretches another face of the hill already mentioned as a boundary, covered with trees whose pendency and age render them at once picturesque and venerable. But though in this reach the river admits an oval woody islet, its channel becomes now more contracted than before ; and its style partakes rather of the beautiful than the sublime. Reaching the New Bridge, a very elegant modern structure, it inclines with the course of the vale, and touching near Bladon, makes a determined bend to the right. The banks on both sides at this point are swelling lawn, with little clumps, connected 82 RIVER. by single trees, disposed without the least show of intention, but uniting to produce the happiest effect. From hence the river takes a variety of charming turns, chiefly with a strong inclination to the right, doubling, as it were, on itself, and circumscribing the extremity of the hill which accompanies it the greatest part of its course. In one place a fine sheet of water spreads before the eye, and invites progress by its apparent continuity ; in another, the trees seem to embay it, and we advance a considerable way before we can detect the deception. From the first determined sweep near Bladon, a gravel walk on the left follows the direction of the river. This walk is bounded on one side by a belt of thick plantation ; on the other, a few scattered trees range with the stream. Beyond the river, we are charmed with all the diversity of pleasing scenery ; a small grove first presents itself, close to the verge of the tide ; a few irregular trees next succeed •, some times a clump planted at the termination of a reach, by advancing to the belt on the opposite shore, appears to land-lock the stream ; then again we are delighted with open lawn and diversified landscape. At last, the river, passing under a low bridge with numerous arches, precipitates itself down a steep cas cade, and at the same instant falls into the Evenlode,* * The Evenlode obtains its name from a village, so called, in Wor cestershire. In its course it receives several little brooks, washes Charlbury, and sorpentizing through fertile meadows, at length forms the southern boundary of Blenheim Park. RIVER. 83 which gliding in an opposite direction through ver dant meads, winds under the park to receive the tri butary Glyme. The united rivers surrounding a woody island immediately after their junction, mean der through a continuation of meads, dispensing beauty and fertility, as they flow to join the classic Isis. The effect occasioned by two rivers hastening to meet each other, and then bending almost at right angles with their former course, is as pleasing as it is singular and romantic. No awkward termination is here to be traced, no disgusting display of art to heighten the scene : Taste unfolds the beauties of Nature with a delicate touch, and Art is only the handmaid to her charms. So many circumstances lend their aid to embellish this spot and its vicinity, that we scruple not to pro nounce it one of the most delightful in the precincts of Blenheim : but it retires from the view, and its unobtrusive charms are, therefore, seldom seen. While scenes less captivating force attention by a bold display, these, like modesty, shun the public eye, and are only visited by the discerning few. May we not add, such is the fate of unassuming merit ? Its lovely qualities are only casually noticed, and the impression they make is often too evanescent to avail them ! In this sequestered, situation, the contemplative man, • sublim'd from low desires, To commune with his secret soul retires ; Thinks on the present, scans his future state, Explores what ills, what blessings round him wait; 84 RIVER. Or loves a retrospective glance to cast On many a dear ecstatic rapture past ; To mark those few, those fleeting hours that smil'd, Like flowers that bloom amid a desert wild ; Those scenes of long-lamented joys to mourn, Nay, sigh for pains that never can return. On the whole, the water at Blenheim, as a very elegant writer* observes, " in size, form, and style, is equal to the majesty of the scene, and is designed in the spirit, is executed with the liberality of the original donation, when this residence of a mighty monarch was bestowed by a great people, as a muni ficent reward, on the hero who had deserved best of his country." * Wheatley on Modem Gardening. THE PARK. 85 THE PARK.* The Park is one continued galaxy of charming prospects and agreeably diversified scenes. It is prin cipally extra-parochial, and contains about two thou sand seven hundred acres, round which are the most enchanting rides, chiefly shaded towards the boundary with a deep belt of various trees, evergreens, and deciduous shrubs, whose mingled foliage exhibits the different gradations of tints, from the most faint to the deepest green ; while plantations of corresponding figure and growth, on the park side, sometimes range with the former, and sometimes breaking into groups, ** That vast space which lies without the River has received the appro priate appellation of the Great Park ; the portion which is, in a great measure, surrounded by it, of the Little Park. See the Plan. The following meteorological phenomenon deserves to be recorded. On the evening of the 29th of November, 1797, a freezing rain began to fall, and in the course of the night incrusted every tree, shrub, and blade of grass, to a thickness almost incredible. In consequence of this many trees, and an immense number of branches, were brought to the ground. In Blenheim Park, to which, and a small surrounding space this phenomenon was confined, nearly one thousand loads of wood were destroyed. The very rooks had their wings frozen, and fell from their perches. Nothing could be more beautiful than the trees in their bril liant coats of mail. By candle-light, every leaf of evergreens seemed to have a diamond pendent at its extremity. Where similar phenomena have occurred, it has always been found that they were partial in their effects, and ran in a narrow track. 86 THE PARK. with large interstices between, relieve the tsedium of continued uniformity, and open the most brilliant prospects. Indeed, the effects of superior taste in design are no where more perceptible than in the boundless views which at intervals present themselves ; the limits of the park being in general quite concealed, and the whole surrounding country, varied with hills and vales, spires, towers, and villas, appearing as one wide-extended landscape. In the internal part, new improvements are continually adopting, and new plantations rising, wherever they can contribute to the beauty or the luxuriance of the scene. Hence the poor are cloth'd, the hungry fed, Health to himself, and to his children bread The labourer bears. During the vernal season, the profusion of blos somed hawthorns, in all the wild luxuriance of nature, scattered among the forest trees, diffuse the most delightful fragrance, while they increase the general effect ; and even when stripped of their foliage, they are not ungrateful to the eye that is enamoured of vegetative beauty in its every aspect. In different places, also, we meet with venerable oaks, of extraordinary dimensions and beauty, that have seen some centuries pass over their heads, and yet flourish in a green old age. The usual ride round the park, for occasional visitors, includes a circumference of upwards of four THE PARK. 87 miles, describing a wide circle round the Palace and Gardens, which are casually and advantageously seen through glades in the progress, and exhibiting many magnificent pictures over the park and country round. This ride has ever been considered as the first of natural charms that Blenheim supplies, and as the coup d'ceil and compendium of all the rest ; and as it may be taken in a carriage or on horseback, it is neither accompanied with fatigue nor delay. In this delightful tour, we pass from scenes the most adorned to open grove,* and even to the wild majesty of a native forest, with no abrupt or unpleas- ing transition. Glades, lawns, gentle hills, retiring vales, wood and water, so sweetly blend and har monize in the landscape, that the eye every where finds novelty and interest, and acknowledges the effect of contrast and design, without revolting at its display. But to enumerate every beauty conspicuous in this tour would be to delineate all that is charming in natural objects : a detail must not, therefore, be expected. Let it, however, be observed, that at Blen heim the ferme ornee is combined with the magnificent park. In one quarter, the eye is delighted with the sight of waving corn ; in another, with green paddocks that invite the scythe : here a building, dedicated to * It is said that the trees to the eastward of Blenheim, which now form an open grove, were originally planted in battalia; and of this there are still many evident traces : but the axe has long since judici ously broken their ranks, and restored them to taste and nature. 88 THE PARK. agricultural purposes, or raised for the accommodation of the necessary officers, just peeps through the deep shade of surrounding trees ; there the team rattles down the slope abrupt. On one side appears a herd of deer ; on another, a flock of sheep : and sometimes animals, native and foreign, graze in social peace. All is a picture of rural life in its most agreeable co lours, in its happiest avocations : it presents cheerful activity, or tranquil repose — Arcadian scenes divested of fable, and real wealth without glitter. Among the many captivating views which every spectator of taste will recognize in the tour of the Park, those from the High Lodge and the Obelisk may be particularized. THE HIGH LODGE. 89 THE HIGH LODGE. The High Lodge was once the residence of the witty, but immoral Wilmot, Earl of Rochester, and the place where he died. Let those who have copied his profligacy reflect on his remorse, and resolve to imitate his repentance. Here dying Wilmot caught religion's flame, And breath 'd contrition for a life of shame ; Condemn'd his wit, revok'd his follies past, And fix'd his anchor on the skies at last. From hence, the prospect is not only very exten sive, but is. also one of the most attractive that can 90 THE HIGH LODGE. be conceived ; it includes, among a variety of other capital and picturesque objects, a distant view of the University of Oxford in one direction, and of a richly wooded country, in which Wychwood Forest bounds the landscape, in another. Enchanting site ! hence every rural sweet, And every natural charm delight to meet. Hence to the eye the landscape opens wide, The dancing spirits roll a quicker tide. Around, new objects prompt th' excursive lay ; The gently winding stream, the meadow gay ; The smiling village, sunk in leafy shades, That just unfolds its low roof through the glades ; The splendid seat, the tower, the shining spire, And hills that catch the sun's departing fire. The sylvan scene, where erst, in happier days, To Nature's charms I pour'd the heart-felt lays.* Oxonia's fanes, of every art the seat, Of every muse the lov'd, the blest retreat. O may fair science in her precincts smile, And shed new lustre o'er this happy isle : To guard the laws, religion's flame maintain, Still may worth issue from her fostering reign. The High Lodge occupying the greatest elevation in the park, its whole vicinity is replete with beauties. The drive through the forest wood, which lies be tween it and the lake, presents such an assemblage of views, and such various combinations of them in rapid succession, that no stranger should omit taking this route. The Water, the Palace, the Gardens, the * See Ode to Nature, written in Wychwood Forest. THE OBELISK. 91 Grand Bridge, the Pillar, Woodstock, and other near and remote objects, open and shut upon the eye like enchantment ; and, at one point, every change of a few paces furnishes a new scene, each of which would form a subject worthy of the sublimest pencil. Viewed from the Obelisk or Pillar, at once the Palace, the River, and the Gardens are seen in their best perspective, and the idea of grandeur they excite will convert admiration into rapture. Nor will the Obelisk itself pass without observation : it is raised to the memory of the hero of the last century. THE OBELISK. ; ,:'or fcP^ */V^--B*&£^k£j~£& 92 THE OBELISK. The statue of this great man, which crowns the column, is designed in a Roman dress : at his feet are two eagles : in the left hand is the general's baton, in the right, a figure of Victory elevated. On three sides of the pedestal are inscribed the Acts of the British Parliament in his favour, and the entail of his honours and estates on the descendants of his daughters ; and hence — issue failing in Lady Godol- phin, the eldest — from the Countess of Sunderland, the second daughter, they now centre in the Spencer family. On the side facing Blenheim, his character is thus delineated, and his exploits recorded, as is supposed, by the masterly pen of Lord Bolingbroke : The Castle of Blenheim was founded by Queen Anne In the fourth year of her Reign, In the year of the Christian /Era One Thousand Seven Hundred and Five. A Monument designed to perpetuate the Memory of the Signal Victory Obtain'd over the French and Bavarians, Near the Village of Blenheim, On the Banks of the Danube, By John, Duke of Marlborough, The Hero not only of his Nation, but of his Age : Whose Glory was equal in the Council and in the Field ; Who, by Wisdom, Justice, Candour, and Address, liectiiicil'd various, and even opposite Interests; Acquired an Influence Which no Rank, no Authority can give. Nor any Force, but that of superior Virtue; Became the ti\cd important Centre, Which united, in one common Cause, The principal States of Europe ; Who, by military Knowledge, and irresistible Valour, THE OBELISK. 93 In a long Series of uninterrupted Triumphs, Broke the Power of France, When raised the highest, when exerted the most. Rescued the Empire from Desolation, Asserted and confirmed the Liberties of Europe. " Philip, a Grandson of the House of France, united to the Interest, directed by the Policy, sup ported by the Arms of that Crown, was placed on the Throne of Spain. King William III. beheld this formidable Union of two Great, and once Rival Monarchies. At the end of a Life spent in defending the Liberties of Europe, He saw them in their greatest danger. He provided for their security in the most effectual manner. He took the Duke of Marlborough into his Service. " Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary " To the States General of the United Provinces, " The Duke contracted several Alliances, before the Death of King William. He confirmed and improved these, He contracted others, after the Accession of Queen Anne : and re-united the Confederacy, which had been dissolved at the end of a former war, in a stricter and firmer League. " Captain General and Commander in Chief " Of the Forces of Great Britain, " The Duke led to the Field the Army of the Allies. He took with surprising rapidity Venlo, Rure- monde, Stevenswaert, Liege. He extended and H 94 THE OBELISK. secured the frontiers of the Dutch. The Enemies, whom he found insulting at the Gates of Nimeghen, were driven to seek for shelter behind their Lines. He forced Bonne, Huy, Limbourg, in another Campaign. He opened the Communication of the Rhine, as well as the Maes. He added all the Country between these Rivers to his former Con quests. " The Arms of France, favoured by the Defec tion of the Elector of Bavaria, had penetrated into the Heart of the Empire. This mighty Body lay exposed to immediate ruin. In that memorable Crisis, the Duke of Marlborough led his Troops, with unexampled Celerity, Secrecy, Order, from the Ocean to the Danube. He saw, He attacked, nor stopped, but to conquer the Enemy. He forced the Bavarians, sustained by the French, in their strong Intrenchments at Schellenberg. He passed the Danube. A second Royal Army, composed of the best Troops of France, was sent to reinforce the first. That of the Confederates was divided. With one part of it the Siege of Ingolstadt was carried on : with the other, the Duke gave Battle to the united strength of France and Bavaria. On the second day of August, one thousand seven hundred and four, He gained a more glorious Victory than the Histories of any Age can boast. The heaps of slain were dreadful proofs of his Valour : A Marshal of France, whole Legions of French, his Prisoners, proclaimed his Mercy. Bavaria was subdued, Ra- THE OBELISK. 95 tisbon, Augsbourg, Ulm, Meminghen, all the Usurpations of the Enemy were restored. From the Danube, the Duke turned his victorious Arms towards the Rhine and the Moselle ; Landau, Treves, Traerbach, were taken. In the course of one Campaign the very Nature of the War was changed. The Invaders of other States were reduced to defend their own. The Frontier of France was exposed in its weakest Part to the Efforts of the Allies. " That He might improve this Advantage, that He might push the Sum of Things to a speedy Decision, the Duke of Marlborough led his troops early in the following Year once more to the Moselle. They whom He had saved a few months before, neg lected to second him now. They who might have been his Companions in Conquest, refused to join him. When He saw the generous Designs He had formed frustrated by private Interest, by Pique, by Jealousy, He returned with speed to the Maes. He returned, and Fortune and Victory returned with Him. Liege was relieved : Huv retaken. The French, who had pressed the Army of the States General with superior Numbers, retired behind Intrenchments which they deemed impregnable. The Duke forced these Intrenchments with inconsiderable loss, on the seventh day of July, 1705. He defeated a great Part of the Army which defended them. The rest escaped by a precipitate Retreat. If Advantages proportionable to this Success were not immediately h 2 <)6 THE OBELISK. obtained, let the Failure be ascribed to that Misfor tune which attends most Confederacies — a Division of Opinions where one alone should judge — a Division of Powers where one alone should command. The Disappointment itself did Honour to the Duke. It became the Wonder of Mankind, how he could do so much under those restraints which had hindered him from doing more. " Powers more absolute were given him after wards. The Increase of his Powers multiplied his Victories. At the opening of the next Campaign, when all his Army was not yet assembled, when it was hardly known that he had taken the Field, the noise of his Triumphs was heard over Europe. On the twelfth day of May, one thousand seven hundred and six, he attacked the French at Ramillies. In the space of two hours their whole Army was put to flight. The Vigour and Conduct with which he improved the Success were equal to those with which he gained it. Louvain, Brussels, Malines, Liere, Ghent, Oudenarde, Antwerp, Damme, Bruges, Courtray surrendered. Ostend, Me- nin, Dendermond, Aetjh were taken. Brabant and Flanders were recovered. Places which had resisted the greatest Generals for Months, for Years ; Provinces disputed for Ages, were the Conquests of a Summer. " Nor was the Duke content to triumph alone. Solicitous for the general Interest, his Care extended to the remotest scenes of the War ; He chose to lessen the obelisk. 97 his own Army, that he might enable the Leaders of other Armies to conquer. To this must be ascribed, that Turin was relieved, the Duke of Savoy rein stated, the French driven with Confusion out of Italy. " These Victories gave the Confederates an Oppor tunity of carrying the War on every side into the Dominions of France. But she continued to enjoy a kind of peaceful Neutrality in Germany. From Italy she was once alarmed, and had no more to fear. The entire Reduction of this Power, whose Ambition had caused, whose strength supported the War, seemed reserved to him alone, who had so tri umphantly begun the glorious Work. " The Barrier of France on the side of the Low Countries had been forming for more than half a Century. What Art, Power, Expense, could do, had been done, to render it impenetrable. Yet here she was most exposed : for here the Duke of Marl borough threatened to attack her. " To cover what they had gained by Surprise, or had been yielded to them by Treachery, the French marched to the Banks of the Schelde. At their Head were the Princes of the Blood, and their most fortunate General, the Duke of Vendome. Thus commanded, thus posted, they hoped to check the Victor in his Course. Vain were their Hopes. The Duke of Marlborough passed the River in their Sight. He defeated their whole Army. The Ap proach of Night concealed, the Proximity of Ghent 98 the obelisk. favoured their Flight. They neglected nothing to repair their Loss, to defend their Frontier. New Generals, new Armies appeared in the Nether lands. All contributed to enhance the Glory, none were able to retard the Progress of the Confederate Armies. " Lisle, the Bulwark of this Barrier, was besieged. A numerous Garrison, and a Marshal of France, defended the Place. Prince Eugene of Savoy com manded, the Duke of Marlborough covered and sustained the Siege. The Rivers were seized, and the Communication with Holland interrupted. — The Duke opened new Communications with great Labour, and greater Art. Through Countries over run by the Enemy, the necessary Convoys arrived in Safety. One alone was attacked. The Troops which attacked it were beaten. The Defence of Lisle was animated by assurances of Relief. The French assembled all their force. They marched towards the Town. The Duke of Marlborough offered them battle, without suspending the Siege. They aban doned the Enterprize. They came to save the Town : They were the Spectators of its Fall. " From this Conquest the Duke hastened to others. " The Posts taken by the Enemy on the Schelde were surprised. That River was passed the second Time, and, notwithstanding the great Preparations made to prevent it, without opposition. Brussels besieged by the Elector of Bavaria, was relieved. the obelisk. 99 Ghent surrendered to the Duke in the middle of a Winter remarkably severe. An Army, little inferior to his own, marched out of the Place. " As soon as the Season of the Year permitted him to open another Campaign, the Duke besieged and took Tournay. He invested Mons. Near this City, the French Army, covered by thick Woods, defended by treble Intrenchments, waited to molest, nor presumed to offer Battle. Even this was not attempted by them with impunity. On the last day of August, one thousand seven hundred and nine, the Duke attacked them in their Camp. All was employed, nothing availed against the Resolution of such a General, against the Fury of such Troops. The Battle was bloody : the Event decisive. The Woods were pierced : the Fortifications trampled down. The Enemy fled. The Town was taken. " Douay, Bethune, Aire, St. Venant, Bou chain, underwent the same Fate in two succeeding Years. Their vigorous Resistance could not save them. The Army of France durst not attempt to relieve them. It seemed preserved to defend the Capital of the Monarchy. " The Prospect of this extreme Distress was nei ther distant nor dubious. The French acknow ledged their Conqueror, and sued for Peace. " These are the Actions of the Duke of MARLBOROUGH, Performed in the compass of a few Years, Sufficient to adorn the Annals of Ages. The Admiration of other Nations 100 the park. Will be conveyed to latest posterity, In the Histories even of the Enemies of BRITAIN. The Sense which the BRITISH Nation had Of his transcendent Merit was expressed in the most solemn, most effectual, most durable manner. The Acts of PARLIAMENT inscribed on this Pillar Shall stand as long as the BRITISH Name and Language last, Illustrious Monuments Of MARLBOROUGH'S Glory, and Of BRITAIN'S Gratitude." Rows of stately trees describe an open square on the east and west of this column : but soon converg ing behind to a moderate breadth, and breaking into groups and clumps of different forms and magnitudes, they form a charming vista to an almost undeter mined length. Through this vista formerly lay the road conducting to the grand approach ; a straight reach of more than two miles, without much diversity in the objects, and with too great formality to please. It now takes a happier direction along the edge of the lake to Queen Pool, then enters a low bottom with noble steeps in distinct masses, the sides of which are adorned with pendent groves and clumps of different growths ; and, slowly gaining the level, at last terminates in the parallel of the palace and pillar ; reaching the same point with the undeviating vista, which, in its present application, is a real em bellishment. The ancient Roman road, generally known by the appellation of Akeman-street, crosses this vista from THE PARK. 101 east to west ; and may be distinctly traced near the North Lodge. Where the Akeman has been broken up, which, as lovers of antiquity, we lament has been done where it could not be necessary, its materials appear to have been an immense congestion of rubble and stones, such as the vicinity supplied. Its ridge, however, in many places, is still entire, and exhibits a proof of the persevering industry, the indefatigable pains, and the public spirit of the Roman Colonists. At a small distance beyond the park, a little to the right of the Akeman, in the parish of Stonesfield, and in a spot called Chest-Hill Acre, probably from Castrum, a tesselated pavement* was discovered in 171 1» which was then generally supposed to be no thing more than the site of a Roman general's tent. In 1779, near the same spot, the areas of several other large apartments were found, with curious tes- selations, and borders, at once admirable for beauty and device. Adjoining was a hypocaust, and a bath, and other remains of Roman architecture, in brick, of the most durable texture. These have long been removed or demolished ; but correct drawings of the whole, by Lewington, of Woodstock, (who saved copies,) are in the possession of the Antiquarian So ciety.! The two largest apartments are very accu- * See Hearne, Pointer, Pitiscus' Lexicon, and the second volume of the Supplement to Montfaucon's Antiquities, p. 39. t On the inclosure of the parish of Stonesfield, (1801,) by a tasteless allotment of property, the site of these venerable remains of the Romans was divided among three different proprietors, so that not a vestige 102 THE PARK. rately and beautifully represented in an elegantly executed engraving by that ingenious self-taught artist, Fowler. But this park is still more celebrated for its mag nificent royal palace, commonly called the Manor House, the frequent and favourite retreat of several kings of England, at various periods, till the reign of Charles I. when it stood a long siege under the con duct of Captain Samuel Fawcet, who behaved with such skill and resolution on behalf of his royal mas ter, that many of the enemy fell before the place ; and had not the king sent commissioners to treat about a surrender, which was at last agreed on April 26, 1646, this intrepid officer was determined to bury himself under its ruins. Some of the intrench ments cast up on this occasion are still visible on the brow of the hill above Queen Pool ; and the parterres and knots of the ancient gardens are distinctly to be traced on the lawn in front of Churchill's Pillar. Some venerable and majestic remains of the Manor House were to be seen till after the building of Blen heim,* when every trace of the ancient edifice was of them will soon be left. While the field was inclosing, the writer of this saw a very beautiful border of one of the tesselated areas unco vered. It lay only about six inches from the surface, and must have been grazed by the plough every year that the spot was in cultivation. Coins, chiefly of the later Roman Emperors, are still occasionally found in the vicinity ; and probably other remains of anUquity may be dis covered. * On levelling the site of the Old Manor House, 17-23, a coffin was dug up, in which was found a gold ring, of about ten or twelve guineas' THE PARK. 103 removed, and two sycamore trees were planted to mark its site. Where yon spread trees wave o'er the crystal stream, And shew inverted by the solar beam ; There where the margin's daisy-mantled side Shelves down to kiss the congregated tide, An ancient palace stood, — the lov'd retreat Of Britain's monarchs from the toils of state; Where, dropt the weight of diademic power, The king, in private, spent the tranquil hour; New schemes contriv'd, or ponder'd on the past, Nor felt time slowly lag, nor fly too fast. On entering the park from Woodstock, these pre sent themselves on a bold elevation beyond the river, at a small distance from the bridge : their growth is luxuriant ; their foliage of the most vivid green : they spread their broad arms on every side, and seem to guard the spot with religious veneration. Though their appearance is cheerful, though the pensive has no share in the picture ; a philosophic mind can scarcely view them, without impressions more strong than the most splendid ruin could have excited. At the sight of a ruin, it is natural to indulge reflections on past scenes, to recal images of ancient grandeur, and to connect what remains with what is lost. Here we cannot connect, but we may create. - Fancy is at liberty to raise the pile, to fashion its ornaments, and value, inscribed with these words, " Remember the Covenant." — Le- land's Coll. by Hearne. From prints and drawings still remaining', it appears that the palace of Woodstock was a magnificent and extensive structure. 104 THE PARK. to adapt its appendages, without a guide, and with out control ; and fancy will ever exceed realities. We thus erect the visionary palace ; we people it with the gay, the illustrious, and the good ; we listen to the voice of melody ; we portray the sprightly dance, the proud levee ; at once they vanish ; and we awake to the recollection of the va nity of art, and the ravages of time, which here show their completest triumph. Of the regal dome, not a wreck remains ; and where kings gave audience, and vassals knelt, the herds crop the velvet green.* Campos ubi Troja fuit. Oblivion broods upon the levell'd lawn, And fly the hints by history's pencil drawn. The turf-grown palace shows no antique tower, Nor wail the loves in Rosamonda's Bower. This place can boast a very remote antiquity. History informs us, that King Ethelred, who began his reign in 866, held a parliament at Woodstock palace ; and Lambard, in his Collection of Saxon Laws, recites several statutes then and there enacted. His brother the illustrious Alfred, who mounted the throne in 872, not only occasionally resided at Wood stock, but, according to a MS. in the Cottonian Li- * On moving the ground in the vicinity, in 1791, several natural and artificial curiosities were discovered ; among the rest, some coins of the Roman Emperors. Might not a Roman villa have originally occupied the spot? The situation was worthy of that distinction, and probably enjoyed it. THE PARK. 105 brary, spent so much of the little space here, in which he was disengaged from his numerous wars, that he translated Boethius de Consolatione Philo sophies ; and about the same time he is supposed to have founded the University of Oxford, or rather to have restored it. Here sacred Alfred, victor of his foes, Indulg'd a studious, and a mild repose ; Undrew the veil that wrapp'd the moral page, And sooth'd by classic arts a barbarous age ! Bade science bloom with renovated grace, And clasp the Muses in a close embrace. Camden, in his Britannia* says, that King Ethel- red, father of Edward the Confessor, " Apud Wood stock olim ordinum conventum habuit, et leges tulit ;" that is, held a convention of the states at Woodstock, and passed laws. And from the censual roll, or sur vey made in the eighteenth year of William the Con queror, commonly called Doomsday Book, it appears that Woodstock was then a borough, and that the demesnes were afforested. Rous, the historian, tells us, that this was the first park in England : in point of natural beauty and elegant embellishments, it still maintains priority ! Dugdale seems to be of Rous's opinion; and William of Malmesbury, and others, inform us that King Henry I. furnished it with fo reign wild beasts, which he procured from other princes, or bought up at a great expense. Certain it is, that this monarch at least beautified the palace, ioc THE PARK. and surrounded the park with a wall, which in many places still remains ; whether he built the palace from the ground, is by no means so clear.* At the mention of Woodstock, the name of Henry II. naturally occurs : for who has not heard of Henry and Rosamond ? This celebrated beauty was daugh ter of Walter, Lord Clifford. At the early age of fifteen she possessed sufficient charms to captivate a warrior king, who seduced her from her friends, and erected a bower for her reception, and a labyrinth by which her romantic retreat might communicate with the palace, and prevent any surprisal from the vin dictive jealousy of his Queen. This precaution, however, is said to have proved ineffectual, and that the lovely frail one at length fell a victim to the resentment of the injured and impla cable Eleanor. Ill-fated fair! by Henry led astray, And taught to tread Seduction's thorny way ; Lur'd from parental arms, ere prudence' call Fix'd Virtue's wish, or pictur'd Vice's fall ; Immur'd by Love in solitary bowers, And doom'd to wither like the desert flowers ! * Not only the park, but the town of Woodstock, was made by Henry I. And, indeed, the town soon flourished on account of the famous park. — Leland's Collect. In an original documont, however, of the reign of Edward the First, relative to Woodstock, and appended to Hearne's History of Robert of Avcsbury, the foundation of New Woodstock is ascribed to Henry II. Be this as it may, its origin, as its name implies, is much less remote than that of Old Woodstock, which is still one of the demesne towns, and has vestiges remaining of its former greater extent. THE PARK. 107 The manner of her discovery, and the nature of her death, are variously related, and much disputed ; and authentic history does not furnish us with a clue to unravel them. It is probable, however, that she fell the victim of disease, and that the legend of her being poisoned by Eleanor has no foundation in truth. Rosamond was buried in the choir of Godstow Nun nery, near Oxford, where a magnificent tomb was erected to her memory,* surrounded with tapers con tinually burning, till the beginning of King Richard's reign, when Hugh, Bishop of Lincoln, in his primary visitation, coming to Godstow, and being offended at the extraordinary veneration he saw paid to a woman of her unfortunate description, burst into a fit of zeal, and ordered her remains to be removed, and deposited in a less sacred place. His injunction was complied with, and the nuns interred her in their chapter-house, covering her grave with a flat stone, on which was inscribed no more than Tomba Rosa mund 1. What is now shewn for Rosamond's tomb, and some miserable verses recorded as her epitaph, are only inventions to amuse the credulous, and baits for the ignorant : at the dissolution of the monastery * See notices of Rosamond's Tomb in the Gentleman's Magazine for November, 1791, p. 985; and of the foundation of Godstow, in the same work, for August, 1787, p. 676. It stands in a low meadow be tween Wolvercot and Wytham, surrouuded by different branches of the Isis. What is called the Chapel, now serves for cattle to take shelter in. A few of the bounding walls, and some ancient arches, are the only other remains of this once celebrated nunnery : and some of these have very lately been demolished for the sake of the materials ! 108 THE PARK. more important objects were obliterated, more extra ordinary events consigned to oblivion. Curiosity will be eager to be gratified with an ac count of her bower, her labyrinth, and her bath ; cir cumstances so universally known by report, and so intimately connected with the scenes described. Of the bower, there is neither authentic history, nor drawing extant * ; of the labyrinth, some traces of its foundation were discovered, and various utensils, coins, and antiquities dug up and presented to Lady Diana Spencer by the workmen, when the ground was levelling by order of the first Duke of Marlbo rough. The spring that must have supplied her bath re tains her name ; and truly is " Health to the sick, and solace to the swain." It is situated in a small dell in the side of the hill, a little to the westward of the grand bridge, and a few paces from the edge of the lake. It gushes from an artificial aperture, in the stones which line the cavity on the north to a considerable elevation, with a fall of nearly two feet, and a copiousness and equability in every season, that few springs exceed. Scarcely has it smoothed its ruffled wave, before it is received into a capacious bath, about five feet deep and twenty * In Antony a Wood's Study, W. 276, there is, however, a descrip tion of Rosamond's Bower, and Woodstock Park, supposed to be writ. ten by Mr. Aubrey. THE PARK. 109 square, lined at the bottom and on the sides with free-stone, and fenced with iron palisades. The water of the bath is so pellucid and tranquil, that it reflects objects like a mirror ; and for this purpose poets and lovers have assigned it to beauty, which seems to be indigenous here. The facing over the fall is formed of a dusky co loured stone ; the layers terminate abruptly on the sides with the resemblance of a ruin ; and the whole has the air of antiquity. To increase this appearance, it bears many marks of the universal passion — the love of fame. This has prompted numbers to carve the initials of their names, and the year of their ex ploit, with characteristic rudeness, and with a seem ing zeal for their preservation. In one part we see names which now, perhaps, have no other memorial ; in another, recent efforts to impress a remembrance, by obliterating what former engravers have left as monuments of their existence. Thus it is in life : in the most important transactions, in the greatest per formances ! In a solitude like this, where the subject and the scene are apt to inspire pensive thoughts, such traces are not unpleasing : they tend to promote one general effect, to which every circumstance here contributes ; the love of contemplation. The hawthorn, mixed with woodbines and other shrubs, overhangs the spring, and forms a deep irregular shade ; the gad ding ivy, and its congenerous plants, clasp the stones that line the precipice, and fill up the fissures and I 110 THE PARK. interstices with their roots. Behind rises a grove, which is rapidly thickening its gloom, and assisting to render the spot more sequestered. The birds carol around ; the nightingale, perhaps, pours forth her plaintive notes ; and the dashing of the water unites with the reverberations of the neighbouring echo, to cherish a soothing melancholy. When this mood has been indulged till relief becomes desirable, we may turn to the palace. The aspect on this hand is more cheerful and open. The sombre, however, still pre vails, particularly at even ; it is inseparable from the season and the spot. The following inscription was penned under its influence, on a report that an urn was intended to be erected over the spring : if the verse should be neglected, let the moral be remem bered ! INSCRIPTION. Ye fair ! who tread in pleasure's mazy round, Where many a snare, and many a gulf is found ; For once reflect! with pensive step draw nigh, And let this moral fix attention's eye : " Birth, titles, fortune, — all that fate can give, Or the most favour'd of your sex receive ; Youth's blooming grace, ev'n Rosamonda's charms, All that delights, or captivates and warms, Weigh'd in the seals 'gainst virtue, are but vain — Link'd with fair virtue, deathless wreaths obtain ; While vice lives only in the roll of fame, To wake your pity, or to warn from shame." At Woodstock Palace, Henry II. received the homage of Malcolm, King of Scotland, and Rice, THE PARK. Ill Prince of Wales, in 1164; and likewise conferred the honour of knighthood on Jeffrey, surnamed Plan- tagenet, his second son by the fair Rosamond. The nuptials of the Lady Ermengard, daughter of Richard Viscount Beaumont, cousin to Henry, with William, King of Scotland, were also celebrated here with the utmost magnificence, for four successive days. They were married in Woodstock Chapel. In 1275, Edward I. called a parliament at this place ; and here Edmund, his second son, was born, from thence called Edmund of Woodstock : as well as Edward, eldest son of Edward III. commonly known by the appellation of the Black Prince, whose early valour and brilliant exploits, joined to the most polished and conciliating manners, endeared his me mory to every lover of his country. This gallant prince, who died at the age of forty-six, is said once to have resided at the mansion, now known by the name of Old Woodstock House, belonging to Balliol College, and long the residence of the writer of this. Illustrious Edward ! on thy natal hour With partial aspects shone each heavenly power; Peace from her olive throne triumphant sung, And fierce Bellona many a prean rung; The gentle arts with approbation smil'd, And war's wild offspring hail'd their favourite child. O! fitted, or to shine in martial pride, When hostile legions press on every side ; Or give to science all her native charms, And conquer minds, by reason's nobler arms ! Fain would the muse a lasting wreath entwine, To deck with vivid bloom thy brow divine : l2 112 THE PARK. Fain would she sing of Poictiers' tented field, And with the lily grace thy sable shield ; But nature's charms recal her wild career, And fix her, ardent, to a meeter sphere ! Woodstock is likewise the birth-place of Thomas, the sixth son of Edward III. surnamed in history from the site of his nativity. To enumerate all the remarkable incidents relative to Woodstock Park, would be to compose a large volume.* It was long the scene of regal pomp and festivity, and productive of various interesting events, many of which are, no doubt, carried down the stream of time, and forgotten. Here Henry in. in 1 238, narrowly escaped assas sination, by a person named Ribbaud, who suffered for his meditated treason ; here John Hastings, Earl of Pembroke, was slain, at a Christmas festivity, in the reign of Richard II. ; and here an attempt was made on the life of Henry VIII. by Wm. Morisco. Chaucer, the father of English poetry, spent some of his happiest hours at this place ; it even contends for the honour of his birth, and unquestionably he has made it classic ground. The park was the scene of his favourite wanderings ; and many of the rural descriptions in his poems are borrowed from thence. * The author of this Description has for several years been making collections for a History of Woodstock. Whether it will ever appear before the public, must depend on health, and other favourable circum stances; but he most respectfully solicits, from antiquaries and others, such information as may forward his design. cHaucer's HOUSE. 113 In his poem of the Cuckoo and the Nightingale, we may trace his morning walk from his own house down the vale, through which the Glyme used to wind within its narrow banks, before it was expanded by art. In his Dream, too, he describes the Bower as a white castle, with its sylvan accompaniments of maples. If we make allowance for the rust of age, and the obsolete modes of diction that now obscure his works, no one has ever equalled him in the vari ous walks of poetry he adopted. Chaucer's house was situated at the right angle of the area before the triumphal gate, which has been previously mentioned : the site is at present the pro perty and residence of Mr. Prior ; and though only a few insignificant remains of antiquity are now to be traced, the traveller of taste never fails to eye the spot with a fond enthusiasm : he venerates the resi dence of original genius, and blames that spirit of improvement which has obliterated vestiges, that ought to have been deemed sacred by every Briton. Several writers of reputation mention a huge folio volume of his works, in manuscript, chained to a reading desk in his house, and which is said to have been extant in the beginning of the last century, or the end of the preceding : that it once existed, we have no doubt ; but the precise time when it disap peared, and what has become of it, are totally un. known. Akenside's inscription for a statue of the ancient bard, though his memory does not stand in need of 114 THE PARK. such frail memorials, nor is likely to obtain them, will not be improperly subjoined, nor appear inappli cable to the purpose for which it was intended. Such was old Chaucer, such the placid mien Of him who first with harmony informed The language of our fathers. Here he dwelt For many a cheerful day. These ancient walls Have often heard him while his legends blithe He sang of love or knighthood, or the wiles Of homely life, through each estate and age The fashions and the follies of the world With cunning hand portraying. Though perchance From Blenheim's towers, O stranger thou art come, Glowing with Churchill's trophies, yet in vain Dost thou applaud them, if thy breast be cold To him, this other hero, who in times Dark and untaught, began with charming verse To tame the rudeness of his native land. With regard to the former celebrity of this place, we cannot forbear adding, that the Princess Elizabeth was confined in the Manor House by her cruel sister, Queen Mary, under the care of Sir H. Beddingfield : and that her life was once in the most imminent danger, from a fire that broke out under the room where she slept ; but whether this fire was kindled intentionally, or merely through accident, remains among the number of undeveloped mysteries with which the path of antiquity is strewed. Yet cannot birth, or fortune's powerful claim, Beauty's fair form, or virtue's heavenly flame, From life's fell cares their lov'd possessors free, Else, why, Eliza, frown'd the fates on thee? THE PARK. 115 Why dropp'd the tear, as from the lattice seen, The rural maiden, singing, cross'd the green ? But that you felt the crime of being great, And grac'd a prison, ere you rul'd a state ! While here, she is reported to have shed tears on seeing a milk-maid pass before the window of her prison, singing, and to have expressed a wish that she had been born to a situation as humble and as happy ; a circumstance on which the elegant and plaintive Shenstone has beautifully enlarged. Hark to yonder milk-maid, singing Cheerly o'er the brimming pail ; Cowslips, all around her springing, Sweetly paint the golden vale. Never yet did courtly maiden Move so sprightly, look so fair ! Never breast with jewels laden Pour a song so void of care ! Would indulgent heaven had granted Me some rural damsel's part! All the empire I had wanted Then had been my shepherd's heart. The following verses were written with charcoal on the window-shutter of the room where she was confined. They are the composition of a great Queen, and derive their chief merit from this peculiarity. Ob, fortune ! how thy restless wavering state Hath fraught with care my troubled witt, Witness this present prison, whither fate Could bear me, and the joys I quit. 116 MANOR HOUSE. Thou causedst the guiltie to be losed From bandes wherein are innocents inclosed ; Causing the guiltles to be straites reserved, And freeing those that death well deserved ; But by her malice can be nothing wroughte ; So God send to my foes all they have thoughte. Elizabethe Prisoner. Anno Dom. 1555. During the time of the eivil wars, as previously mentioned, the Palace, or Manor House, as it was called, suffered irreparable damage, by a resolute siege it sustained ; but was still further injured by the mercenary and rapacious disposition of the usurper and his dependants, by whom part of the very mate rials were exposed to sale in 1653.* The commis sioners who assembled here in 16495 by order of the Rump Parliament, to survey the royal property, and who had taken up their residence in the king's apart ments, were terribly alarmed by supposed spirits, which incessantly disturbed their repose during their stay : but the real actor in this farce was one Joe Collins, since called the Merry Devil of Woodstock, though at that time dignified with the epithet of the Just. This man, it seems, was a royalist, and anxious to impress the commissioners with an idea of super- * It appears that Lieutenant-General Fleetwood obtained a grant of the Manor House and its appertenances, which he sold for one thousand pounds. Several pictures from the collection here are still dispersed in the neighbourhood. The taste of Charles I. in the fine arts is universally acknowledged. ROMAN VILLA. 117 natural agency against their proceedings ; and, perhaps, their own consciences aided the imposture. A circumstance of this kind would have been deemed unworthy regard, had it not been to introduce a remark on the triumph of true philosophy, and the decline of superstition. A learned professor in the University, in the reign of Charles II. fills several pages of his book, on the Natural History of Oxford shire, with a detail of the pranks of this imaginary demon, among other reveries as ridiculous, which at this period would disgrace the belief of anility : Mr Widdowes, likewise, who was then Minister of Wood stock, kept a diary, in which the story of the appari tions is related* This silly work was published in 1660, and with it a short survey of Woodstock, taken from ancient authors. Three miles from Blenheim, near the village of Northleigh, at a short distance from the river Even lode, and about half a mile to the right of the turn pike road from Woodstock to Witney, is a ROMAN VILLA. In the year 1813, the Rev. W. Brown, rector of an adjoining parish, accidentally observed several fragments of Roman bricks and tiles, which induced him to cause researches to be made on the spot where 118 ROMAN VILLA. they were found. The foundations of an extensive building were soon traced, but the examination was deferred till the year 1815, when a large room and several passages were discovered, ornamented with tesselated pavements, evidently of Roman construc tion. On this being communicated to the Duke of Marlborough, to whom the land belonged, his Grace gave orders for continuing the work, and caused a house to be built on the spot, for the residence of a person to prevent the depredations of the antiquary, who might probably prefer seeing a part of these relics of the Romans in his own collection, to a view of them on their original site. The building appears to have been a Roman villa, originally forming a quadrangle of about two hundred feet square, and which had for ages past been entirely buried in the earth. A plan of this villa is published by Mr. Hake- will, describing the form, dimensions, &c. of the dif ferent apartments discovered up to December, 1816 ; the principal room is covered over to prevent its receiving injury by exposure to the weather, as is also a large warm bath, in excellent preservation ; the flues round it remain, and also the pillars of the hypocaust, and even part of the pipe which conveyed away the water. Other baths have been found in different parts of the building. The room, No. 1, in Mr. Hakewill's plan, richly merits the attention of the curious. It has a tesselated pavement, with a hypo caust under it, which clearly points out the mode of warming the apartments of the Romans. Its dimen- MANOR OF WOODSTOCK. 119 sions are thirty-three feet by twenty. In another covered room near this, a quantity of wheat, turned black by age, is preserved, which was found in one of the apartments. Several broken articles of earth enware have been discovered, and one small urn, very little damaged. The manner of laying the tesselated pavement is clearly perceptible : it differs totally from our method of paving, and is well calculated to pre serve the rooms from the dampness of the earth. A few silver, and many other coins, have been dug up, which are carefully preserved ; the latest is a coin of the Emperor Arcadius, who died in 408. The Ro mans left Britain entirely in the year 448 : therefore, the remains of this building must be at least 1 387 years old, and probably of much higher antiquity, as the Romans were in possession of the greater part of this country nearly four hundred years. A few abridged extracts from the ancient customs of the Manor of Woodstock, taken in the reign of Edward VI. will still farther gratify curiosity, from their intimate connexion with the subject of this manual. To the Manor and Honour of Woodstock belong seven demesne towns or villages, Hordley, Wootton, Combe, Stonesfield, Handborough, Bladon, and Old Woodstock, the tenants of which are discharged from 120 MANOR OF WOODSTOCK. tolls in all fairs and markets, and possess other pecu liar privileges. There are three several kinds of land in this Manor, demesne or bury land, free land, and customary land, the latter of which descends to the youngest son or daughter, as heir. The free tenants and customary tenants in the de mesne towns have interchangeably the right of com mon in all waste grounds within the limits of the Manor, and also in Ensham, Fawler, Charlbury, Northleigh, Ditchley, Kiddington, and Glympton ; but, from the different enclosures that have taken place, by Act of Parliament, this privilege is now wholly lost ; nor has any allotment been made in lieu of it, except in one or two instances. The customary tenants of Handborough, Combe, and Bladon, were bound to cut and make hay of all the grass growing in Woodstock park, for which every township was to have sixpence in money, or two gallons of ale. The customary tenants of Hordley, by tenure, were to sweep and make clean all the chambers in the Manor House, as often as the King visited it, for which they were to receive two castes of bread and two gallons of ale ; and the owner of the Manor Place of Combe, in like manner, was to clean all jakes and privies within and about the King's Manor of Woodstock. The Lord of Staunton Harcourt, by tenure, was to find four browsers in Woodstock park, at any time when the snow should fall and lie for the space of MANOR OF WOODSTOCK. 121 two days, in order to furnish provisions for the deer ; and every browser was allowed to carry to his lodg ing, as long as the snow lasted, a billet of wood, every night, the length of his axe-helm, and to be borne on his axe's edge. The King's bailiff of the hundred of Wootton was to give warning of the browsers being wanted, by blowing a horn at the Manor gate of Staunton Harcourt, on which he was to be served with a caste of bread, a gallon of ale, and a piece of cheese ; and the said Lord of Staunton Harcourt, as a compensation, was to have one buck in summer, and one doe in winter, out of Woodstock park. The tenants of the seven demesne towns and the town of Woodstock were used and bound to drive and keep the deer for view, as often as the King should come to his Manor of Woodstock, or his Ma jesty should order his game to be viewed by any other person, without any fee or reward. The customary tenants of the demesne towns were bound to carry the hay made on the meads in Woodstock park to the King's barn, for the support of the deer in winter ; for which they were to have seven pence a day, and to be allowed, on going home, to carry off as much hay as would lie in the bed of their carts. 122 WOODSTOCK. WOODSTOCK. The ancient borough of Woodstock, which gives the title of Viscount to the Duke of Portland, is situ ated on an eminence near the banks of the Glyme, and enjoys every local advantage that can contribute either to health or pleasure. The amenity of the situation, indeed, can only be exceeded by the purity of the air, which is so great, that valetudinarians have frequently been recommended to breathe it. Here Woodstock, erst amid the sylvan scene,* Lifts her high brow, and, happy, smiles serene : Woodstock, belov'd by Dian's huntress train, What time those shades confess'd the goddess' reign ! Woodstock was a borough by prescription, long before it was incorporated, as appears by the rolls of Parliament. In 1453, it received its first charter from Henry VI. This has been confirmed, enlarged, or altered, by Edward IV. Henry VII. Edward VI. Elizabeth,! James I. and Charles II. The charter * It was formerly within the limits of Wychwood Forest. t The charters of Edward VI. and Elizabeth were recovered, in Au gust, 1813, by the writer of this, then, for the third time, mayor of the borough, from that oblivion and decay, in a damp cellar, to which, it appears, they had, many years ago, been ignorantly or carelessly con signed. They are now deposited, with the other existing charters, in the muniment chest of the Corporation, and have received less injury than might have been expected. A beautiful portrait of Queen Eliza beth, in black and white, adorns the initial of her charter. WOODSTOCK. 123 granted by the latter is that under which the Corpo ration now act, and is almost the counterpart of that of New Windsor. A restrictive charter forced upon the borough, in the fourth of James II. was soon after set aside by proclamation, when the former franchises were restored. Abstract of the principal privileges and exemptions of the borough of New Woodstock, from the charter of Charles II. I. The Corporation, under the style and title of the Mayor and Commonalty of the borough of New Woodstock, is to enjoy the same liberties and free customs which the burgesses of New Windsor use and enjoy. II. A Mayor and a sergeant at mace are to be chosen, annually, on the Monday before the feast of St. Matthew the Evangelist ; at which time two Chamberlains are also to be elected from the Com mon Council, to serve for the next year. III. The Corporation and Freemen are exempted from toll in all boroughs, vills, and demesnes, throughout the whole kingdom of England. IV. The Mayor has the power of settling all mat ters within the borough, of fixing the assize of bread, and regulating the markets. V. The Corporation is to consist of five Aldermen, 121 WOODSTOCK. one of whom is to be Mayor, a High Steward, a Recorder, two Chamberlains, and a Common Clerk, with fifteen capital Burgesses, making in all twenty- five. VI. The Corporation assembled in their Guildhall have power to make laws and regulations for the better improvement of the vill, which are to be binding. VII. The Mayor may hold a court of record on Monday, from fortnight to fortnight — now held only on the first Monday of every month. VIII. Aldermen and Common Council are to serve for the term of their natural lives, unless they resign, or are removed for ill behaviour. IX. The High Steward, Recorder, and Common Clerk, to be approved by the King, before they can act. X. The Magistrates to have the power of trying all and every kind of felony, witchcraft, enchantment, &c. but not to determine any matter touching the loss of life or member, without the King's special commission. XI. The Mayor, Aldermen, High Steward, and Recorder, to be justices of the peace ; and under a warrant signed by any two of them, persons accused of crimes may be committed to the county gaol ; and no county justice can interfere within the borough. XII. It may and shall be lawful for the Mayor and Commonalty to choose two Burgesses to serve in Parliament. WOODSTOCK. 125 Though this privilege is now given optionally, yet, by a former charter, this borough was specially ex empted from being compellable to send two members, out of royal grace and favour, on account of the ex pense attending the exercise of this franchise, when representatives were paid for their service in Parlia ment. By the Reform Act, passed June 7th, 1832, the old borough of New Woodstock was included in Schedule B, and consequently returns only one mem ber ; and by the Boundary Act, passed July 11, 1832, the elective franchise was extended to the neighbour ing parishes and hamlets, viz. the parishes of Bladon, Begbrook, Shipton-on-Cherwell, Hampton Gay, Tack- ley, Wootton, Stonesfield, Combe, and Handborough ; the parish of Kidlington, except the respective ham lets of Gosford and Watereaton ; the hamlet of Old Woodstock, and Blenheim Park. The Duke of Marlborough is High Steward of this borough. The parish or chapelry of New Woodstock, in cluding the adjacent hamlet of Hensington, both ap pendant to Bladon, contains about two hundred and fifty houses or separate tenements, and upwards of fifteen hundred inhabitants. Within these few years, the town has been much improved; and, in many essential* respects, it is im possible to find a more desirable residence, especially for persons retiring from the bustle of business with moderate fortunes ; or for those who wish to live on a limited income, in a comfortable, unostentatious man- K 126 WOODSTOCK. ner. The beauty and facility of the promenades offer advantages superior to the command of a carriage in most other places, as the whole town is so compact, that the most remote part of it is within five minutes' walk of Blenheim Park. The situation is one of the most central in the kingdom, the roads are good, the means of conveyance numerous, and rent, rates, and taxes, under all circumstances, peculiarly reasonable. The seat of Pryse Pryse, Esq. and the Rectory, both commanding beautiful views over the lake and the northern part of the park, are universally ad mired for their situation. Among the ornaments, however, of this place, whether viewed in a moral or an architectural light, may be reckoned the neat Alms Houses, near the entrance of the borough from Oxford, erected and liberally endowed, in 1797? by Caroline, Duchess of Marlborough, for six poor widows. Power, riches, and grandeur, are little to" be en vied, except when they are exerted to promote the less fortunate meritorious, and to relieve the dis tressed. It is the exercise of those qualities alone that can render them amiable in the eyes of others, or a real pleasure to their possessors. May this example of beneficence serve as an incentive to others ! * * For wishing to preserve the following Sonnet, as an humble tribute of justice, truth, and gratitude, the author trusts he shall find an apo logist in every liberal mind. Flattery to the living never disgraced his pen ; nor will it be supposed that a few wild flowers strewed on the WOODSTOCK. 127 The immunities and franchises conferred on this borough, by the favour of our ancient sovereigns, will be seen, from the foregoing Abstract, to be very considerable. Queen Elizabeth, in particular, was a great benefactress ; she bestowed on the Mayor and Commonalty four shops, and thirteen cottages, for merly belonging to the dissolved chantry of our Lady, founded in Woodstock chapel by King John in 1210 ; and also confirmed the grant of Henry VI. of a cer tain marsh, called The Pool, or Le Pool, now con- grave are grateful to the dead, though they may serve to evince the affectionate recollection of the feeling heart. The Duchess of Marlbo rough has long been beyond the reach of praise or blame ; but till the last pulse of life her memory will be cherished by me, and her good deeds ought to be recorded to posterity, from which the impartial meed is certain. To HER GRACE CAROLINE DUCHESS of MARLBOROUGH, On her building and endowing the Alms Houses at Woodstock. In deep affliction's rigid science bred, Bent by calamity's oppressive rod, How many sink the meek submitted head, Hopeless of help — save only from their God ! The widow weeps — the orphan droops unseen, And fortune's favourites stand with cold averted mien. Yet know, the selfish heart that cannot feel, On wealth or power, for pleasure leans in vain ; While social sighs and kindred tears reveal A bosom form'd for rapture's blissful reign. 'Tis this, O Marlbro'l that will gild thy name, Thy heart delight in retrospective view — Gain virtue's meed— give pure and lasting fame,— - " That want and widow'd age, a refuge find in you." K 2 128 WOODSTOCK. verted into fertile meadows, which let for about four guineas per acre. The Town Hall is a stately modern stone edifice, standing in the most favourable situation for effect ; and was built at the sole expense of the late High Steward. The Market House, which has recently undergone a complete repair, is likewise eligibly situated, and sufficiently adapted for its destination. The markets are well supplied with provisions ; and a considerable share of business, especially in the corn trade, is usually transacted on Tuesdays, the principal market day. A Friday's market, the grant of Elizabeth, is too much neglected, both for the real benefit of deal ers and of the inhabitants. From causes of this kind, towns frequently date their decay ; for markets, which naturally excite competition, soon encourage combination by disuse. It is every where the duty of magistrates to guard against this. The Church, or Chapel, more properly speaking, has a modern front, and a handsome new tower, with a ring of eight well-toned bells, and a set of melodi ous chimes, which go every four hours, and play a different tune for every day in the week. It contains an organ, and is well pewed, and well attended. It is of ancient foundation, has long been paro chial, and is presented to, with the rectory of Bladon, of which it was originally considered as an occasional chapel of ease, probably served by the chantry priest ; though, from the change of times and circumstances, WOODSTOCK. 129 and the loss, alienation, or neglect of endowments, it is now become very onerous and expensive to the rector of the mother church. Notwithstanding the ancient celebrity of the place, there are few monuments deserving notice, if we ex cept that to the memory of Dr. King, Dean of Raphoe, and his son, Captain James King, the friend and coadjutor of Captain Cook, in his last voyage, part of the history of which was written at Woodstock : nor are the inscriptions remarkable for elegance, with the exception of that on the small tablet, which records a former rector, Dr. Thomas King, Chancellor of Lincoln, which is equally simple and beautiful. The coat armour, crest, and supporters, of the town of New Woodstock, were thus blazoned by Richard Lee, Esq. in 1574. Arms. — In a field, gules, three stags' heads ca- bossed, and the stock of an oak tree in base, argent, a border of the second charged with oak leaves, vert. Crest. — On a helmet waper issuing out of a coro net ducal, an oak tree, proper. Supporters. — Two wild men with their clubs pro per, mantled gules, doubled, argent. Motto.—" Ramosa Cornua Cervi"— the branching horns of the stag. A Grammar School was founded and endowed here, in 1585, by Mr. Corn well, a native of the 130 WOODSTOCK. place, under a royal licence from Queen Elizabeth. The Corporation are trustees. The master must be a person in holy orders. The school-room, which is large and lofty, received a complete repair in 1811 ; and every thing has been done on the part of the Corporation, which the funds allowed, to render this useful establishment a real benefit to the place. The inns furnish the best entertainment and accom modation to travellers of every description. These are the Bear, Marlborough Arms, Angel, &c. Lying on the great Irish road, the inns are full of business at all seasons of the year ; though more particularly during the spring, summer, and autumn, when Blen heim presents its diversified and ever-varying attrac tions to visitors, whether on purpose or incidentally. As a proof of the facility of its communication with most parts of the kingdom, especially with the metro polis, more than a dozen stage and mail coaches pass and repass daily to and from London, besides a Wood stock coach, called the Blenheim, which starts at eight every morning, and returns at five in the afternoon, through Wycombe. Waggons and vans are likewise frequent ; also a Woodstock waggon thrice a week. The principal manufactures are polished steel and gloves, and in both branches the peculiar excellence of their fabrics has gained them distinguished pre eminence. In one respect, they have left the fable of Midas no longer an object of wonder : at their touch, the old nails of a horse-shoe are converted into articles of infinitely greater price, according to their weight, WOODSTOCK. 131 than the purest gold. A chain made here, weighing only two ounces, was sold in France for £170 ster ling. The manufacture of polished steel was intro duced here by a Mr. Metcalfe, about the beginning of the last century ; but it has now much declined, on account of the cheapness of the Birmingham and Shef field wares, though in elegance still unrivalled ; and, with more prosperous times, will, it is to be hoped, revive. The glove trade, however, is tolerably flourish ing, and employs many hands. Upwards of five hundred dozen pairs are made weekly in the town and the neighbouring villages. The delicacy of the leather and the neatness of the workmanship distin guish the Woodstock gloves and fancy articles from all other. About forty years ago, in pulling down an old building near the church, several pieces of ancient coin were found, and, among them, two of the Em peror Vespasian, with this inscription round the head, in characters very legible and neat : Vespasianus Rom. Imp. Aug. On the reverse, Judaea capta. Indeed, Roman coins are still casually found here. That nation indubitably had several stations in this vicinity, and probably one at this place ;* Alecti Castra, or Alchester on the Akeman, was less than * On digging in a place called the Back Acre, in 1810, behind the premises belonging to the Rev. Dr. Mavor, in Oxford-street, Woodstock, a small urn, evidently of Roman manufacture, was discovered, in a bed of ashes, within two or three feet of the surface, and is now in his possession. 132 WOODSTOCK. ten miles distant ; and the tesselated pavements near Stonesfield, and at Northleigh, as well as the Camp on Callow Hill, are unquestionable vestiges of that once potent people. But this is not intended as a work on antiquities — if it were, the field is open, and, probably, may yet be traversed, Before Decay's effacing fingers Have swept the lines where beauty lingers. Byron. Yet who would prefer exploring the earth for urns, rusty coins, and half-obliterated castrametations, to the contemplation of recent art and blooming nature, arrayed in their gayest dress, and captivating with their brightest charms ? To the botanist, the vicinity of Woodstock presents a rich variety of plants, many of which are either curious or scarce. The Cherwell, the Glyme, and. the Evenlode, each produces its appropriate aquatics. In Blenheim park, too, and its immediate environs, the general stores of Flora are extremely extensive and various. From giant oaks, that wave their branches dark, To the dwarf moss that clings upon their bark. Darwin WOODSTOCK. 133 The Orchidese, in particular, seem the denizens of the soil : very few of the family are wanting. To enumerate the various plants to be found in this delightful neighbourhood would far exceed the limits of this work. We must, therefore, refer our readers to a most useful and interesting Work, entitled " The Flora of Oxfordshire and its Contiguous Counties (comprising the flowering plants only), arranged in easy and familiar language, according to the Linnssan and Natural Systems ; preceded by an Introduction to Botany ; with illustrative plates. By the Rev. Richard Walker, Fellow of Magdalen College, Ox ford." ITINERARY OF SOME OF THE MOST FREQUENTED ROUTES FROM WOODSTOCK. No. I. To London, by Wycombe. Oxford . . . Wheatley Bridge Tetsworth . . Stoken Church West Wycombe High Wycombe Beaconsfield . Uxbridge . . Hayes . . . Tyburn Turnpike Miles from Woodstock. 8 14 2026 6e 6 7 5| 8| 3 12 3338|4750 62 RFMARKS. Though this road is four miles nearer the metropolis than the fol lowing, it is less frequented by the traveller for pleasure. The views from Stoken Church hills are cer tainly very fine ; but, after passing Wycombe, the road runs, indeed, along a rich champaign, but unin teresting country, to London, with- . out either near or remote objects to amuse the eye. No.' II. To London, by Henley. Oxford Nuneham Courtenay Dorchester . . . Benson .... Nettlebed . . . Henley-on-ThamesHurley .... Maidenhead . . Salthill . . Slough .... Colnbrook . . . Cranford Bridge . Hounslow . . Brentford . . . Hyde Park-corner 8 5 13 4 17 3 20 11 31 9 40 5| 45£ 4 49J 7± 57 H 66§ This road, in many places, runs parallel with theThames,or catches views of its meanders. Both at Henley and Maidenhead we cross this prince of British streams by noble modern stone bridges; and every where the landscape is agree ably diversified by hill and dale, woods, plains and splendid edi fices ; among which latter, Wind sor Castle towers with n proud pre-eminence. 136 ITINERARY. No. III. To Reading. 8 13 21 9 30 6 36 OxfordVVallingford PangbournReading The Thames accompanies the traveller the greatest part of this road, which every where presents the most enchanting features, and in some places is almost unrivalled. Reading is one of the most plea sant county towns in the kingdom. No. IV. To Birmingham and Holyhead. Enstone . . Chapel House . Shipston-on-Stour Stratford-on-Avon Henley-in-Arden Hockley . Birmingham . . WolverhamptonShiffnal • • . Watling-street Shrewsbury . Oswestry . . Llangollen Corwen . . Kernioge Mawr Betws Ycoed Capel Cerrig . Bangor Ferry Gwyndu . . Holyhead . . 1 10llf 7 5 10±13*124 6J 12*"Im 10 13 11 4 1413|124 6 10 2038* 43|5467| 8086 1 99 «6i129139 152 163 167 181 194| 207 Few tours of pleasure could be selected that comprise more pleas ing or important objects ; Strat ford, the birth-place of Shaks- peare; Birmingham, the " toy shop of Europe ;" and the sublime scenery of North Wales, succes sively claim regard, and beguile the length of the journey. No. V. To Worcester and Aberystwith. Enstone .... G Chipping-Norton . 5 11 Moreton-in-Marsh . 8 19 Broadway . . . 8* 27f Bengeworth(EcesAow) 6* 33 Pershore .... 7 40 Worcester .... 9 49 Bromyard . 14 63 Leominster . . . 12 75 Presteign .... 14 89 New Radnor . . . 8 97 Rhayadr .... 18* ns| Cwm Ystwith . . 14* 130 Aberystwith . 15 145 If the former route is calculated to give an agreeable picture of North Wales, this is no less fa vourable for a display of some in teresting parts of Sooth Wales ; besides affording the traveller an opportunity of seeing the beautiful city of Worcester. Aberystwith is much frequented as a sea-bathing place. No. VI. To Bath, by Cirencester. Witney . Burford Bibury . CirencesterTetbury . Petty France Cross Hands Bath . . 7 10 7 10 8! 3 12 15 25 32 42 50* 53* 05* Persons from London who annu ally travel the Bath road, as it is ' called, beautiful as the country must be allowed to be through which it passes, in time become tired of the same uniform round; and, therefore, to vary the scene, many either go or return by Wood stock and Oxford. The difference in the distance is more than com pensated for, by the novelty and magnificence of the objects which this route displays. ITINERARY. 137 No. VII. No. X. To Bristol. Cross Hands, as to Bath I Sodbury . . ¦ • Bristol 3 11* 53* 56* 68 Health, pleasure, and business, all in their turn, conduct to Bris tol, which once ranked as the se cond commercial town in Britain. No. VIII. To Cheltenham and Gloucester, by Stow-on the-Wold. Chapel House . . . 10 Stow-on-the-Wold . . 9 19 Cheltenham .... 18 37 Gloucester . . . 10 47 During the summer, the resort of genteel company to Cheltenham has been regularly increasing ; the numbers now are about 5000 in the season. No. IX. To Cheltenham and Gloucester, by Burford. 8 7 15 9 21 7 31 6 37 10 47 Witney . . BurfordNorthleach Frogmill Cheltenham Gloucester This road, though it has been longest established, and is most frequented, in point of distance is the same as the preceding from Woodstock. To Leamington Spa, Coventry, and Litchfield, by Banbury. Deddington .... 10 Adderbury .... Banbury . . . . 6 16 14 30 Leamington Spa, 8 miles Warwick, 2 miles 13 43 Coleshill . ... 12 55 Litchfield . . . 15 70 The road through Banbury is now much frequented, since Lea mington Spa has risen into such high reputation, and is geDerally excellent. Leamington, which bids fair to rival Cheltenham, lies about 8 miles from Southam, and conse quently is 38 miles from Wood stock by this route ; by Stratford - on-Avon, through Warwick, it is 41 miles ; and by Halford Bridge it is 39 miles. Coventry and Litchfield are too well known to require a description of their at tractions. No. XI. To Southampton. Oxford 8 Abingdon 6* 14* East Ilsley . . 11 25* Newbury . . 0* 35 Whitchurch . . . 13 48 Winchester .... 13 61 Southampton 12 73 No route can be more delightful than this. Winchester, South ampton, and its vicinity, and the Isle of Wight, with its charming scenery, are of themselves suffici ent to allure every person of taste lo visit t.hem. 138 ITINERARY. 14* 6175* 84* No. XII. To Gosport. Winchester, No. XI. Wickham .... Gosport The pride and defence of Britain, the royal navy, which has one of its principal stations at Portsmouth, adjoining Gosport, will always oc casion a frequent communication between the midland counties and this place. No. XIII. To Northampton and Peterborough. Middleton Stoney Brackley Towcester . . Northampton . Wellingborough ThrapstoneOunrtle . . . Peterborough . j2 11 9 105 10* 8 13£ 8 17* 28*37± 4858J66 1 80" Neither business nor pleasure renders this road much frequented ; yet it is not uninviting, nor desti tute of attractions. Northampton is a very fine town ; and the coun try for many miles along this route is rich, and well cultivated, if not picturesque. No. XIV. To Buckingham and Cambridge. Middleton Stoney Buckingham . . . Stoney Stratford . . Newport Pagnell Bedford .... 15 8 6 13* 8 233137 501 St. Neots . . K* 63 18 81 Next to Blenheim, perhaps no place in the kingdom is better worth visiting than Stow, the seat of the Duke of Buckingham, which lies in the vicinity of the town of that name. No. XV. To Salisbury and Weymouth. To Newbury, A^. XI. Andover .... Salisbury .... Woodyates Inn . . Blandford . . . Dorchester . . . Weymouth . . . 16 17 10 12* 16 8 35 51 6878 90| 106* 114* Salisbury, with its splendid ca thedral, and the wonders of Stone- henge, which lie in its vicinity, are very attractive objects in an excursion to Weymodth. No. XVI. To Biighlon, by Windsor and Tunbridge Wells. Slough, No. II. Windsor Kingston CroydonFarnborough Sevenoaks Tunbridge . Uckfield LewesBrighton 45 47 5970 78 85 98 112 120128 Travellers to Brighton from this part of the country generally pass through London : but when it is considered that for a little ad ditional expense they can visit Windsor and Tdnbridge by the route proposed, and at the same time avoid the hurry and noise of the metropolis, many without doubt will be inclined to prefer it. No. XVII. To Warwick and Leamington Spa. Stratford-on-Avon, No.IV. Warwick Leamington Spa . , . 31 3941 ITINERARY. 139 The road through Banbury and Kineton, and likewise by Halford Bridge, is about two miles nearer. Warwick Castle is one of the finest habitable castles in the kingdom ; and Leamington Spa and the beau ties of the environs are too well known to require pointing out. — (See No. X) No. XVIII. To Aylesbury. Bicester Aylesbury 16 11 27 This road is little frequented ; but it is by no mean9 destitute of attractions in fine weather. No. XIX. To Derby and Sheffield, by Birmingham. Birmingham, No Sutton Coldfield Litchfield . . . Burton-on-Trent Derby . . . Peacock Inn Chesterfield . . Sheffield . . . IV. 10 10$11 14 10$12$ 54 61$71$ 82 93 107 117$130 The elegance of Litchfield, the picturesque beauties of Derbyshire, and the manufactures of Sheffield, will render this an interesting route. It also communicates both with the westand the north roads to Scotland. No. XX. To Liverpool, by Birmingham and Litchfield. Litchfield, os to Derby Wolseley Bridge Sandon .... 9$ 8 71$ 81 89 Trentham .... Newcastle-under-LyneCongleton .... Knutsfield . . . 9$ 3 12$ 14 98$ 101$ 114 128 Warrington . . . 12 140 Prestcot .... 10 150 Liverpool .... 8 158 In population, Liverpool is the third place in the kingdom, and in foreign commerce it is only inferior to London. No. XXI. To Manchester. 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