YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

NARRATIVE

VOYAGE TO BRASIL,

%c- #c.

Printed by T. Davisok, White-friar*

N ARR A TI VE
OF A
VOYAGE TO BRASIL ;
TERMINATING IN THE
SEIZURE OF A BRITISH VESSEL,

THE IMPRISONMENT OF THE AUTHOR AND
THE SHIP'S CREW, BY THE PORTUGUESE;

GENERAL SKETCHES OF THE COUNTRY, ITS NATURAL
PRODUCTIONS, COLONIAL INHABITANTS, &c.

A Description of the City and Provinces

ST. SAL V ADORE and PORTO SEGURO.
To which are added,
A Correct Table of the Latitude and Longitude of the Ports
on the Coast of Brasil, Table of Exchange, &c.
BY
THOMAS LINDLEY.

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR J. JOHNSON, ST. PAUL'S CHURCH-YARD.
1805.

TO THE

RIGHT HONOURABLE'

EARL OF MO IRA.

MY LORD,
I AM unable sufficiently to express
my acknowledgment for the permission
that has been granted me, to dedicate
to your Lordship the following work ;
which I regret is not more complete,
that it might be more Avorthy of your
distinguished patronage.
The ready compliance which your
Lordship was pleased to give to my re
quest, as it can proceed from no per
sonal motive, 1 must attribute solely to

VI

the promptitude you have always shown
to facilitate whatever had an appear
ance of benefit or information to your
country, whether in affairs of magni
tude or objects of inferior importance.
The life which your Lordship has uni
formly spent, in exertions for the public
good, evinces this promptitude more
forcibly than any words it is in my
power to employ; and I may appeal,
in confirmation of what I advance,
to the situation in which your Lord
ship stands at this moment in Great
Britain ; where, during the heat of
political contest, and its consequent
changes, you enjoy the esteem of all
parties, the' confidence of the whole
illustrious family on the throne, with
the admiration and love of the nation
in general.
As the veneration to which your

VI 1

Lordship's public services are entitled
is great, so also is the homage due to
your private virtues, among which I can
not avoid mentioning that benevolence,
on every occasion so feelingly exerted
and so liberally dispensed, which has
ranked your Lordship among the great
philanthropists of the age, in the same
manner as your political character and
conduct have placed you among its
best patriots.
If goodness ever deserved the imme
diate favour of Providence, your Lord
ship may surely expect its constant
protection, still further to serve your
country by your talents, and bestow on
the distressed part of your fellow-crea
tures the consolation of your bounty.
That the blessirtg of health, and the
heartfelt satisfaction and refined felicity

Vlll
attendant on such laudable endeavours,
may long be enjoyed by your Lordship,
is the sincere wish of,
MY LORD,
YOUR LORDSHIP'S
VERY OBEDIENT
AND RESPECTFUL SERVANT,
T. LINDLEY.

PREFACE.

IN all states whose wealth is imme
diately derived from mercantile sources,
the greatest care should be taken to pre
serve their commerce from every spe
cies of depredation or violence that may
be pointed against it, through the jea
lousy or envy of less successful trading
nations. It was this motive that sti
mulated Great Britain to defend herself
against several attacks made on her
trade during the last century; the most
daring of which must be in the recol
lection of every reader, that of the Spa
niards in Nootka Sound ; for which she
eventually received the most ample sa
tisfaction.

X
A similar enmity to our commerce
exists at this moment in the Portuguese
Brasilian colonies, and has unfortunate
ly been pointed with greater success;
owing, probably, to the extremely un
settled state of the times, and the busy
war in which we are engaged.
An immediate instance of this, par
ticularly affecting every British mer
chant, this volume will present to the
public. There are instances of other
vessels treated in a similar manner under
various pretences, and a continuation of
the same severity may be more or less ex
pected by every English ship touching
to refresh in Brasilian ports ; and even
our Indiamen will not be exempt from it:
but by observing the rules and cautions
conveyed in the following pages, and
the case of the author, (which is briefly
given in the Introduction, and more-
fully detailed in the Diary that follows,)
all trouble on this head may be readily
avoided. To relieve the tedious personality of

XI
his work, the author has interspersed it
with sketches of the country, its inha^
bitants, and manners ; and has added a
short description of two of its most va
luable provinces, the immediate scene
in which the transactions he has to re
cite took place.
Notwithstanding "the many voyages
and travels that have lately been pub
lished, and the addition science has re
ceived in geographical information, Bra-
sil continues in a manner hidden, as to
the world in general ; all endeavours to
gain information respecting it being in
dustriously repressed by the Portuguese
government, both in the colony itself
and in Europe. For a century subse
quent to its discovery, the Jesuit mis
sionaries were indefatigable in their at
tempts to gain some knowledge of the
interior of Brasil, its animal, vegetable,
and mineral productions ; and the dis
coveries they made being annually dis
patched to the college of Jesuits in
Bah'ia, were detailed and printed in the

xn
chronicles of the order* and were the
groundwork of every publication re
specting this part of South America that
followed. These fathers had the most
extensive communication, by means of
the correspondence kept up by them in
every part of South America, especially
with their brethren in Peru and Para
guay; and, through the great body of in
formation possessed in consequence by
the different superiors, a most complete
and scientific work would finally have
been formed; but the project was nipped
in the bud by the fatal jealousy of govern
ment, who, about the close of the seven
teenth century, prohibited its continu
ance, and would allow no farther public
cation to be made on the subject. Secret
communications were however still re
mitted and recorded by the college ; but
they are probably lost to the world, as
they lie buried indiscriminately amidst
numberless other manuscripts, in a
room adjoining the late monastery of the
order, where they have continued for

Xlll
the last forty years wholly neglected,
and are now rapidly decaying and
mouldering to dust.
Thus forgotten, and apparently de
spised, one would suppose that access
to them was no difficult task : but this
is by no mean's the case ; the approach
of the curious even among themselves
is impracticable, and the rigour of course
is not less as to foreigners.
It is to be lamented, that during the
time Holland was in possession of the
most central, picturesque, and fruitful
provinces of Brasil, which was a space
of no less than thirty years, the Dutch
never attempted to elucidate the his
tory, or give information respecting the
country : but the constant war in which
they were engaged, either with the re
gular forces of the Portuguese or the co
lonists, gave them perhaps no leisure
for the purpose ; or, which is more pro
bable, they had no opportunity of pe
netrating into the interior.
ii In the year 1730, Rocha Pitta, a most

XIV
intelligent and wxll-informed "Brasilian,
member of the royal academy of his
tory in Lisbon, &c. compiled a quarto
history, of Brasil, from the chronicles of
the Jesuits and other authorities, and
some valuable local knowledge of his
own. This work is extremely copious
in the details of its foundation as a
colony, its successive governors, its
churches, monasteries, and convents ;
, but in its natural history, productions,
commerce, and, in short, every point of
useful information, is brief, cramped,
and deficient ; it is written also in the
most bombast and enthusiastic style:
yet the Portuguese government in a few"
years publicly prohibited its being read
under the severest penalties, and it is
now only to be met with (carefully se
cluded) in the cabinets of the curious.
Voltaire and the Abbe Raynal have
also difFusedly Avritten on Brasil; the
former in many respects erroneously,
while the political and arithmetical cak
dilations of the latter are certainly un-

XV

founded, though detailed in the most
specious and amusing manner.
As ve are thus deficient in a history
of this division of South America, how
happy would the author of the present
volume be, could he amply and fully
supply what is wanting ! but at present
this is impossible, though he possesses
extensive materials for the purpose. As
it is, he hopes to diffuse some newiights
respecting the country, and be the
means of exciting an emulation in some
more competent and scientific traveller
(to whom he will cheerfully lend every
assistance in his power) to complete the
information which these pages will only
superficially convey.
The author is fearful that the form in
which his work will appear, that of 'a
Journal, will not be deemed the most
eligible : but it was necessary to pre
serve the connection and dates; and
as it was originally written in this way,
his ideas he thought would be convey
ed clearer than by giving them a more

XVI
methodical dress. He has also to apo
logise for numerous defects of style:
but it Avill be remembered, perhaps,
that it was Avritten under every disad
vantage of secrecy and concealment;
an,d since his return to Britain, he has
been engaged in mercantile avocations,
that have not afforded the leisure he
should othenvise have Avished to bestow
on the Avork. Oh its entire truth the
reader may implicitly rely; and may be
assured, that the author has never per
mitted himself to Avrite through the false
perspective which resentment might
have inspired for the severe treatment
he sustained.
In fine, he submits his Avork to the
candour of the public; and, Avhatever
its fate may be, consoles himself Avith
the idea, that his sole motive in pub
lishing is to assist British commerce,
and humbly endeavour to add his tri
vial contribution to the stock of human
knowledge.

INTRODUCTION.

1 HE arrival of the news of peace at the Cape
of Good Hope, in December, 1801, occasioned
a considerable alarm to several British' mer
chants of that place, from the immense stock
of goods they had in store, the sale of which
l»egan instantly to stagnate through' - the
Dutch refusing to purchase, under the idea! of
having them hereafter' for a mere trifle, when
the merchants might be obliged to dispose of
them at the evacuation of the colony.
In consequence, other markets were select
ed, and vessels immediately forwarded to the
Mauritius, river Plate, and various places in
every direction.
Among the adventurers on this occasion, I
entered into a speculation of a brig for Saint
b

xviil
Helena and a market, and I personally under*
took to conduct the voyage. We sailed from
the Cape on the 25th of February, 1802, ancj
arrived at St. Helena the beginning o,f March-
Our stay there was about three weeks; and a
few days after our departure, we encountered!
a severe squall of wind, which considerably
damaging the brig, obliged us to bear away for
the nearest port in Brasil, and we arrived at
B&hia (qr St. Sjalvadore) towards the middle of
April. In that pity no foreign vessels are allowed;
to trade under any pretence whatever, or even,
' to enter the port, unless in distress for repairs,
water, or provisions. To prevent the possi
bility qf trade, six custom-house officers board
every vessel on her arrival, a guard-boat is,
nioored at her stern, containing a lieutenant
and soldiers j and she is visited besides by a
minister of justice, a cqlonel, some officers of
niarine, and a carpenter; who examine her
papers, the cause qf her corning in (whether real
or pretended), and ^ake down in writing an
account of the whole. This account is sub-

mitted to the governoivgeneral, by whom a
time is then allowed for her continuance,
Avhich is generally from four to twenty days,
according to the urgency of the occasion, and
the nature of the report; and permission is
given for those on board to go ashore, under
the immediate inspection of the guard-boat.
Notwithstanding this apparent rigour, a
considerable contraband trade used to be
carried on, frequently by the very lieutenant
and officers appointed to prevent it, or indi^
viduals Avith their connivance ; but it is 6ther4
Avise now; the laws, Avhich heretofore existed
only in form, have been thoroughly enforced ;
severe examples have beenmade of the officers,
and new edicts been transmitted from Europe,
prohibiting the sale of foreign goods in Bahia,
r
even to pay port expences, and obliging them.
to be sent for disposal to Lisbon.
On the arrival of the brig, such were my
prospects;— in want of repairs, and without
means to effect payment of the same, or liqui
date other expences J was likely to incur.
ti o.

XX

After a month's stay, however, I obviated these
difficulties, repaired the vessel, and sailed from
the bay of All Saints about the middle of May,
intending to steer my course for Rio Janeiro
(where I expected a ready sale of my cargo to,
the Spaniards trading from the river Plate), and
thence to return to the Cape of Good Hope.
But I had hardly cleared the bay when the
wind changing to the southward, I had to
beat against it; and I continued doing so for
six days, on a dangerous coast, till at last the
gale veering to the eastward, blew directly on
a lee-shore, from which we were not more
than five miles distant. At this moment
a fishing-launch passing, we found that we
were directly off Porto Seguro; and the mestre
offering to pilot us in, I judged it prudent to
accept his offer, and wait more favourable
weather. As we entered, danger was yet lurking, for
the brig struck on a ledge of rocks, which
carried away her rudder.
The civil governor or judge of the province,

XXI
and the cafiitain mor or military captain, re
ceived us with great apparent hospitality,
giving me permission to trade, ordering a
new rudder, and tendering every refreshment
which the place afforded.
This judge, Sen1'. Jo^e Dantes Coelho, had
been but a short time in the country, having
arrived only two years before from Lisbon,
with his family : one of his sons (Sen1. Gaspar)
transacted the immediate official business of
his"father; while another (Antonio) was de
puted to Rio Grande, a district at the ex
tremity of the Capitanea, to superintend the .
revenues derived from the Avood cut near
the river.
The day after my arrival, Senr. Gaspar,
conversing with me, in presence of his father,
respecting the different productions of the
country, mentioned the immense quantity, of
Brasil-wood it contained, the high price which
the article bore in Europe ; and offered to
barter a portion with me for goods, if it suited.
my views. The proposal appeared so advan-

XXlI
tageoUs, that I could hate no hesitation,
except froril an uncertainty whether this wood
was allowed to be exported; but as the offer
came from the governor himself, I considered
any prohibition that might exist as merely no-»
minal; and every doubt being thus dispelled,
1 agreed to the exchange.
Accordingly a certain quantity of goods
Were the next day selected by Gaspar, equi
valent to a OargO of wood for the brig, which
was to be delivered at the river Grand when
ready $ and he rode for that place immediately.
io-give the necessary direction*. In about a
week, however, he returned, with the unpleas
ant intelligence that the business must be
given up, from its being too generally known
" that they, the guardians of the tradej teere
going to engage in an illicit commerce. "
Both the father and son seemed much hurt
at the disappointment, which was mutual; but
they consoled mc with the idea, that I might
be able to procure the Avood I Avanted by
another channel, and that I slioald meet with

#xiii
ho hiriderarice or opposition on their part.
Encouraged , by this, I had recourse to art
offer which had been made me in the interim,
and agreed for a small quantity on the spot,
to be furaished in the course often days; but
ere this period had elapsed, I was attacked by
a severe fever, to which I had nearly fallen a
victim. As I approached a state of conva
lescence; the person who had contracted with
me for the wood* informed me that part of it
was ready* and that as much as a large canoe
could carry would be sent on board the
following night; This intelligence I conveyed
to Gaspar, who, changing his former opinion,
requested me in the strongest terms not to
receive it ; adding* that he had secret reasons
of the most forcible kind for his advice: in
consequences I declined the business, altogether,
and was no longer solicitous to obtain any
wood, as I found by this that it was an article
strictly contraband, and could not be obtained
without danger.

xxm~
I now determined to continue my voyage/
the rudder being finished, which had been
delayed thus long from there being only one
carpenter residing on the spot, and he an old
man, and an indifferent workman. In hang
ing oh the rudder, other defects were dis
covered in the brig's stern; but, anxious
to get away, I had some lead nailed over
the place that was injured, and proceeded
to sea the 25th of June. The next day,
though the ' weather was fine, Ave found we
had been too sanguine in our opinion of the
damage in the counter, for the vessel made so
much water, and was so unfit for sea, that I
wtts obliged to Come to anchor in the river of
Carevellos, which was near, to examine and
repair completely her stern.
In this place we found good carpenters, who
pronounced the whole counter to be rotten.
After a few days, on the 2d of July, Avhen.
the repairs were nearly finished, I was sur
prised by an officer and soldiers coming on

xxv
board, with orders to take possession of
the brig, to conduct her to Porto Seguro*
and to send the crew by land to the same
place. Opposition was unavailing; the men were
instantly put on shore ; but, as an uncommon
favour, I was permitted to continue in the'
brig with Mrs. Lindley.
The repairs were soon completed, and on
the 13th of July I arrived a second time
at Porto Seguro, where I found a commission
deputed from the government of Bahia, for
the purpose of my arrest, and of all the parties
concerned with me.
From this period I kept a diary, which im
mediately follows, and to which I refer the
reader for more ample particulars.
The arrest was owing to an information
given by an inhabitant of Porto Seguro, who
went to Bahia for the purpose, in revenge
for the non-payment of a debt by the civil
governor, whom he accused of trading with
me for Brasil-wood; and he declared that the

XXVI
brig was laden with that articled He also*
charged the two sons of the governor, in con
junction with the eapitiim mor, with having.
made an expedition, accompanied by servants,
Indians, and others, up the river Grand, to
explore a diamond mine on its banks, and
returned with a considerable quantity of
precious stones; and lastly, he accused the
governor " of extortion, and of oppressing all
classes of people immediately Under him.
These charges occasioned a vessel to be
dispatched with the commission I have mew
tioned; and on our arrival at Porto SegurOj
myself, Mrs. Lindley, and crew, were thrown
intb prison; the two sons of the governor, the
capitqinmor, and a number of inferior agents,
were also arrested.
My first examination took place in about
fourteen days, when I denied the brig's ever
having had Brasil-wood on board ; though I
was perfectly explicit respecting my intention
to have purchased some, had I not discovered,
in time the strictness with which that article

xxvii
vyas prohibited. The crew, I afterwards found,
fully confirmed what I had said.
, The two sons of the governor, and, the ca*
pitain mor^ were likewise examined at differ*
ent periods ; but at the time I was entirely
ignorant of what passed between them and
the commission.
The commission continued three months
at Porto Seguro, collecting evidence on the
charges, and settling other affairs of the pro-1
vince. Towards the end of September we ali
arrived at Bahia, and were again confined \x\
different fortresses;, and early in the follow
ing month. I was confronted, with Sen". Cas
par and Antonio, when* to my great astonish-
mentj I found that they positively denied the
Whole transaction. This singular falsity re-:
specting a circumstance so universally known
and proved, even from their own papers, I
considered as aggravating the affair, and
eventually subjecting them to greater severity
than they AVould otherwise have met with.
During this examination, and others, I re-

XXV111
peatedly enquired what it Was that criminated
me ? or Avhat I- had done to desere such se
verity as had unnecessarily been exercised
against me, a helpless foreigner, ignorant of
their laws and regulations ? If for attempting
an illegal commerce, with whom had I nego-
ciated? — With the governor of the province,
the immediate expounder and guardian of the
law, who ought to have put me right, had the
proposal, even originated on my side ; whereas,
on the contrary, it had originated on his. But
to these questions they deigned me no an
swer;— "it was contrary to the practice of their
courts" In the beginning of December I procured
the liberty for myself and Mrs. Lindley to
pass to the city, on condition of returning to
pur fort every evening by six o'clock; and
the governor's sons, and the capitain mor, had
a similar permission about the same period.
The governor (Sen1. Joze) remained un
molested till June, 1803, when a dispatch' ar
rived from Lisbon for his arrest, which took

XXIX

place immediately, and he was conveyed to
fort San Pedro, in Bahia, with, orders of strict
confinement. The partial liberty given- to
his sons and ourselves, was however not Avith-
drawn ; no new enquiries were entered into
as to any of the parties, and the whole affair
continued to sleep as profoundly as it had
done for the preceding eight months.
I yet bore some weeks longer this tedious
suspenee; when, learning from the best in
formation that the business might yet remain
undecided for a considerable period; no re
source was left me but escaping from it : I
made the attempt, and succeeded in breaking
through the unjust confinement which I had
but too long, and too patiently, endured.
After the usual voyage, I arrived at Oporto
on the 2d of November, and found vessels
from Bahia that had sailed subsequent to
purs : in consequence, I expected that in
formation had been received of our escape,
and was apprehensive of some embarrassment ;
but my fears were groundless. I applied in-

XXX

stantly to the actingconsul, Mr, Warr, wh.9
pointed out the necessity of my proceeding
immediately to Lisbon. In four days I reach
ed- that city, and waited on lord Ii. S. Fitz
gerald, our residentiary minister, who received
me with the most soothing and polite atten
tion, and entered into the merits of the affair
without losing a moment. Jointly with Mr.
Gambier, the consul-general, his lordship had
the goodness to assure me it should be forci^
bly represented to the Portuguese govern
ment, that a satisfactory recompence might
be obtained for this unjust outrage on British
subjects, and the sufferings that had been so
wantonly inflicted on myself and wife.
His lordship honoured me with an intro
ductory letter to lord Hawkesbury, which on
my arrival in England I presented, and waa
referred to the secretary of 'state's office,
where I attended at various times till the
middle of June last, when I received the un
pleasant intelligence (as well by advice from
lord Robert Fitzgerald), that tfie Portuguese

XXXI

government had finally resolved, that no resti
tution or recompence whatever should be
made in the affair ; thus leaving me no further
prospect or hope of redress, for the injuries I
have in so many respects sustained — in my
feelings, my health, my time, and my pro
perty !

VOYAGE TO BRASIL.

DIARY
FROM JULY 13, 1802, TO AUGUST 1803.
ON the 13th July, the Brig Packet arrived
at Porto Seguro, under detention, after a day's
passage from Carevellos : at six in, the even
ing passed the bar, but through ill pilotage
ran aground, and it was near four in the
morning of the 14th ere the vessel gained the
place of anchorage.
July 14.— About ten in the morning the
commission came on board, consisting of
S*. Claudio Joze Perriera da Costa, minister
of crimes ; Sr. Bras Oardozo Barreto Pimentel,
naval captain; two clerks of justice; and an
B

English linguist, Rinaldo Joze de Arrayo.
They demanded the vessel's papers, log-book,
and journals, which were immediately deli
vered. After viewing the log-book with the mi
nutest scrutiny, comparing it with thejournal,
asking questions on each particular, and other
wise interrogating me, till near three o'clocky
they departed on board a sumack that brought
them from Bahia. Returning in an hour, they
surprised us with the sad doom of instant im
prisonment, nor condescended to answer my
repeated enquiries wherefore such a fate should
be assigned us.
'They ordered me to deliver my keys, and any
private or other papers I might have, and in
formed me an attempt to conceal them would
be punished with the utmost severity ; at the
same time a bed and a small trunk of clothes,
which tbey permitted us to take, were searched
with the most scrupulous exactness; our per
sons examined, and a pocket-book taken from
me, In consequence, I was obliged to give up
several valuable papers I particularly hoped to

3
retain. This occupied us till near evening,
when we were ordered into the boat, and con
ducted along the beach, and up the hill to the
common prison. They shewed us to an upper
room, in the floor of which a small trap door
was opened, a ladder put down, and we were
ordered to descend; we did to some depth*,
and entered a dungeon, below , the ground,
from which arose a miserable stench. It was
iotally dark, and, O God ! what were our
feelings !
The prison keeper indulging us with a light,
we saw our dreadful situation : in three cor
ners were accumulated heaps of dirt, rubbish,
orange peel, other vegetables, &c. &c. the
whole ina state of putrid decay. The other
corner was rendered horribly loathsome by the
different miserable inhabitants whom this dun-
geon had enclosed ; and the whole apparently
never cleaned since its erection. Four of my
sailors had been confined here for the prececl-
* About forty feet,
B2

4'
ing eight days, and were just removed to the
next dungeon, for our admittance. A solitary
bench of two planks formed the bed, and was
the only furniture.
July 15. — This morning opened very me
lancholy : sleep had been a stranger to our
eyes, the dungeon was miserably hot, and in
haling the unwholesome putrid air in so close
a situation, made us quite ill ; I was particu
larly so, having just recovered from a severe
malign fever, and in an extremely weak state;
Our mental accorded with our bodily feelings;
the massy barred window, the immensity of
cobwebs and large spiders on the roof and
around the dismal black walls, the damp
earth, — all conspired to fill us Avith the ,most
gloomy apprehension.
A large jar of water was placed outside
the window, through a vacancy of which we
took it for use ; our food is conveyed through
the same hole, but the providing it is left to ¦
my own care and cost, having no allowance
whatever.

As a particular favour, they granted a fire on
the ground, to fumigate the dungeon ; which
we kept constantly burning during the day
(notwithstanding the heat), as the only means
Of amending the bad air, and enduring it at
any rate.
July 16 to 23. — A positive order had been
given that I should not be allowed a pen and
ink; but I managed to elude this by secreting a
pencil, and part of a quire of paper I contriv
ed to purchase. The first use I put it to was,
petitioning for a small medicine chest I had
'* *
on board, which they had humanity sufficient
to grant me; but even with its assistance I find
myself extremely ill, growing daily weaker,
and if I am not allowed the benefit of air and
exercise, I fear, I tremble, the event will be, I
must die in my prison ! My wife is differently
affected from me, complaining of violent pains
and swellings in every part of her body.
Finding we were apparently forgot, and the
suspence continuing miserable, I wrote to
the minister Claudio on the 1 9th, for a hear-

ing ; to which I had an insulting answer re
turned, that When wanted he should send for
me. On the three following days saw my
crew pass the window for examination, which
led me to hope mine was near. I was not
wrong ; for, on the
24tlLj — Had the satisfaction to -see the lad
der once again lowered; was summoned to the
regions above, and conducted,. undeV a guard,
to the house of the commission. They inter
rogated me from three to eight o'clock, merely
respecting the Brasil-wood transaction ; when
they informed me I .should soon be called
again, and I was retaken to my prison, where
I found Mrs. Lindley severely alarmed by my
long absence. I now felt hope once more re
lume my breast, and my frame was consider
ably invigorated by the fresh air, enabling me
very patiently to bear the interval to the
2?th ; — When my examination was finish
ed : after which I strongly represented our hor
rid situation, and got promise of removal from
the dungeon. At four in the afternoon, we

were conducted above to a small deal-parti
tioned apartment, with liberty of -Walking in
¦a larger one adjoining": each has a window
without bars, and free circulation of that in
valuable blessing, fresh air. An armed senti
nel is stationed over us.
'.'July 28. — Slept very ill: being obliged to
keep our door partly open for the soldier to
have an eye on our window ; which is accom
modated with a shutter to keep out the night
'air, but has no other fastening than a button
to it. We find the air ag superfluous here, as
it was deficient below; our apartment being
simply a square plank-work, about eleven feet
high, open to the "roof, which is supported
with massy beams : many of the tiles are want
ing; and the chill wind, penetrating through,
vvhistled over us very disagreeably. A num
ber of bats, who find refuge in the building,
also darted along, and completed the noctur
nal dgriments of our new abode. Strict orders
are given for me to converse with no one, to
«end no letters, nor receive any.

July 29 to 31. — Still much disturbed in the
nights with officers at play, change of senti
nels, &c. &c. : in fact, the constant noise and
confusion are shocking. Thank Heaven ! I
feel myself rapidly recovering : my spouse is
not so fortunate.
August 1. — At the time of seisure, the
commission found in my Avriting desk a paper
containing a small quantity of grain gold in^
termixed with gold-coloured sand, Avhich had
been brought to me by an inhabitant of Porto
Seguro as a sample. This strongly attracted
their curiosity, and I was most closely ques
tioned respecting it. I made no secret of
whence I had obtained the article, but declared
I was ignorant of the name or residence of the
individual from whom I had it, although I be
lieved him to belong to a distant settlement.
The commission declared they were resolved
to discover the man, and insisted on my taking
a journey with them for that purpose. I made
no objections (knowing these would be use
less) ; but predetermined it should avail them

nothing had we met the poor devil, which for
tunately was not the case. This evening the
linguist came to inform me I must accom
pany the minister, &c. in the morning, and be
ready by five o'clock.
2d. — At six mounted our horses, altoge
ther seven of us, and took the beach to the
south. After an hour's ride, abruptly turned to
the west into the country ; and, ascending a
steep height, soon arrived at the chapel qf
Nossa Senhora de Judea, on its summit. The
prospect from hence is grand indeed, not only
of the surrounding country, but commanding
the adjacent ocean, upon which the white
Avails of the chapel form an excellent sea
mark ; and its patroness, the Virgin, is parti
cularly invoked by the neighbouring coasting
vessels and fishing smacks, in cases of distress
or contrary winds : her fame even extends
to curing several disorders, if called on with
proper faith. The inside of the building is
decorated with rude drawings of vessels in di
stress; and of sick chambers, having inscrip-

10
tions under each, of the different cases which
they are intended to commemorate.
After eating a biscuit and drinking some
of the good vicar's water, Ave visited several
plantations and ingenios in the neighbour
hood, at one of which we procured an Indian
guide. Taking the course of the river, we
had a beautiful ride over a fine champaign
country, wanting only cultivation to form the
best of meadow land; the soil black mould,
at times gravelly, clay patches, and sandy
flats. Leaving the open land, we entered the
woods of ages through a narrow path, Avhich
admitted only one horseman abreast, and Avas
impenetrably defended from the sun's rays by
the overhanging branches, which sometimes
were so ¦ low as to be very inconvenient.
After two hours' smart ride, the country
again opened ; and we passed several plant
ations of sugar-cane, mandiock, &c. with
pieces of ground partly cleared, and numberless
other spots capable of being converted into fin«

11
land, either for pasture or tillage. The scene
now changed to a range of low hills, lying
east and west, in the direction of the river, to
which the land gradually descended; but on
the opposite bank it rose precipitately to a high
' cliff, covered with never-fading verdure. Rid
ing parallel to these hills, about one o'clock
arrived at the plantation and ingenio of Joao
Furtado. Here we alighted, expecting better
accommodation than we might meet with at
the Villa Verde, a little further; which, being
an extreme settlement, is inhabited only by
the vicar (a missionary), three whites, and a
few converted Indians.
Our host was an old bachelor ©f seventy,
who resided with a maiden sister of nearlvthe
same age. The old man told me he was born
near the spot ; that his life had been a series
of industry ; and the ingenio, building, furni
ture, &c. were almost entirely the Avork of his
own hands. I found him very conversant in
the natural history of the country around
him, particularly in ornithology ; and I AVas

12
sorry our momentary stay enabled me not to
obtain more information.
The word ingenio is the Portuguese distincT
tion of those who have a sugar work :— her*
very simple, consisting of three rollers' of pon
derous wood, two feet in diameter and three in
length, working horizontally in a frame : the
upper part of the centre roller joins a square
beam that ascends through the frame work,
and to which are affixed cross pieces sufficiently
low for the harness of two horses, that move
the whole. The side rollers work by cogs'
from the centre one. Underneath this ma
chine is a long trough, slanted, that receives
"the juice of the cane as pressed out by the
rollers. The juice is thence conveyed to a
shallow boiler of six feet diameter, and skim
med from all impurities ; after cooling in an
other vessel, they add an alkali of wood ashes,
suffer it to stand some days, pour off the pure
liquor, convey it to the same boiler, and eva
porate till the sugar is formed, the settlings,
&c. being distilled to a powerful spirit. Flow

13
widely different is this- primitive sugar-making,
from the immense works, machines, and en
gines, employed by our West-India planters !
I found the accommodation of the house
far superior to Avhat I had expected from
the general poverty of Porto Seguro ; and,
in fact, the best I met with in this part
of Brasil : our welcome was free, provision
well cooked (for the country), and tolerably
clean. We dined on the ground, mats being
first laid, and a clean cloth spread over them.
There were plenty of earthen ware (a rarity
here), silver spoons, and knives and forks haft-
ed with the same metal. At night, the bedding-
was decent and comfortable.
August 3. — I arose with the sun, and was.
charmed with the Country surrounding the
plantation. The house itself was encircled
with bannanas, cotton shrubs, cocoas, and
orange trees ; diverging from them, inclosures
of canes, mandiock, &c. : to the westward lay
a large tract of herbage, reserved for grazing,
irregularly fenced with native woods ; on its

14
descent to the river, the ground, unequal,
formed some beautiful holloAvs, patched Avith
groups of trees, which, with the stream itself,
and cattle on its banks, pictured the most de
lightful scene.
As I skirted the woods, I saw birds of the
most brilliant plumage, one nearly the size of
a turkey. Of these the moutou was particu
larly rich, of a deep blue, nearly approaching
black, with a head and eye strikingly beautiful : -
toucans Ave re numerous, and many others ele
gant indeed. Marmozets, both of the grey
and silver lion colour, were in every bush;
but their piercing shriek is disagreeable, and,
if near you, penetrates to the very brain. I
fancied I heard the distant growl of ounces,
Avhich are numerous, and fatal in their ravages;
forming, with snakes, the chief scourge of the
planters. After dinner, we began our return by the
same route, passing several scattered planta
tions, situate near the river for the better
transporting their products to Porto Seguro,

13 -
&c. The whole land besides (extending both
ways to the next sea-ports) is entirely neglect
ed ; although finely watered with small streams
in every part, where the cane, cotton, and
mandiock, would grow with scarcely any la
bour, as well as the immense variety of other -,,
tropical produce : in short, where nature spon
taneously offers her gifts, and invites the hand
of man. But this beautiful country, one of
the finest in the world, is entirely lost through
Avant of inhabitants, of cultivation, and of in
dustry; mines of wealth being buried, far ex
ceeding all their mineral or metallic^ ones.
Absorbed in these reflections, I rode along,
our party returning very silent, probably cha
grined, at their want of success in discovering
the presumptuous vassal who had dared to
touch or think of so prohibited an article as
gold ; but though the bird was flown, his rich
nest remained. They found out the stream
on whose margin the gold had been disco
vered : guards were directly appointed over
it, and all approach to its banks interdicted, in

16
the dread name of her most Faithful Majesty j
while a further sample was taken for accurate
inspection and assay on the arrival of the
commission at Bahia.
Late in the evening we arrived at Porto'
Seguro, and I was remanded to prison, com
pletely exhausted.
August 4 to 11. — Two days after our tour,'
the minister Claudio, and clerks, took a' second
journey to Carevellos, on business of the pro
vince; leaving the commandant Bras Cardozo
to transact in his absence, who seems a man
of far more feeling than his colleague, by his
paying attention to another complaint I was
necessitated to make in favour of my crew,
Avho have hitherto received a shamefully short
allowance of provisions, by no means sufficient
to support life. Yesterday they had present
ed them not more than four ounces of boiled
tripe, hard as the hide of the beast it belong
ed to, and a small quantity of farinha *, to
* A sort of Cassada flour. '

17
support six people for the day. The com
mandant directly gave orders that the quantity
of provision, shpuld be increased, and jerk beef
qr salt fish regularly distributed,; but they are,
generally, Such a set qf villains, that I 4m
afrajd they will easily contrive to elude or
frustrate this salutary regulation.
When, my hrig arrived the first time at Porto
Seguro, I was visited by nearly all the inhabit
ants, Avho, just like monkeys, were igporantly
peeping into every thing ; anc| they nq sooner
observed my medicine chest, and fi^d inquired,
its owner, than, right or wrong, I must be a doc
tor, and, heijig foreign, of course a famous one.
Before night, several canoes came along
side, AYith sick, lame, and hj'irid ; all distressed,
and a]l poor (by their account) ; some beg
ging por qn\or de J)eus, othprs imploring me
in the name of nossa Senhora Maria : and hav
ing once established a gratis system, they would
never let me break through it, till, visiting a
poor man in a malignant fever, I caught the dis-r
order, fell sick, and, h&ppijy lost; all my patients.
c

18
Now they are again as numerous as ever,
notwithstanding my interdiction of speech;
each sentinel is ailing, or brings a sick rela
tive, friend, or neighbour, besides some who
have obtained the commandant's permission :
in short, they have multiplied so rapidly, and
thinned the contents of my poor chest in such
a degree, that Senhor Tomaz * (the appella
tion they give me) wishes he had never as
sumed the art of healing or, at least, had ex
ercised i only in a more professional manner,
and got Avell paid for his remedies.
August 13. — The commandant sent tore-
quest me to visit a sick man in the village be
low the toWn. I went, accompanied by a sol
dier; and the patient proved to be Sr. Rodri
guez de Fonta, of whom I had some knowledge.
He was yesterday seized with an apoplectic
fit, and I found him now very ill ; his respira
tion anhelose and difficult ; his pulsation weak,
tremulous, and ceasing at intervals : in short
from every symptom, his end seemed nearly
* The Portuguese use tlie christian name only, }n ad
dress or familiar conversation.

19
approaching; and the topical and internal
medicines I ventured to apply, had not the
smallest effect, nature having lost all power
and stimulus. The poor man was in a close
chamber, where no fresh air or light was ad
mitted ; for the latter, a candle was held over
his head, as he lay without motion on one side
of a large bedstead. The bedstead occupied
a corner of the room, with its head and one
side to the wall, between which and the sick
man was some space, where his wife and an
other female were squatted, who stept over
the body as occasion required. On the top
part of the bedstead were placed several small
images, a leg and foot, a small sword, with
other relics, and a twisted wooden wreath was
suspended constantly over him: the whole
forming a most curious mixture of sickness,
stupidity, and superstition. The chamber,
crowded with relations, visitants, and servants,-
was immensely hot and close; and I was happy
to get away, as, in the present state of the poor
Avretch, my continuance could be of no service,
€ 21

20
-August 14. — Rodriguez died before mid
night ; and the bells this day have kept a
constant noise, preparing for his interment.
About eight it took place. The banner of the
church, surmounted with a large silver cross,
went first, followed by smaller silver crosses,
and the principal inhabitants of the town
(about a hundred and fifty)* each carrying, a
Wax light, with three priests, church choristers,
jnusie, &e. , The body lay open in the coffin,
with the face exposed; and dressed in the grey
habit of a Franciscan^ with his cord, &c- At
intervals the procession stopped, and memen
toes with full chorus were sung.
The stillness of the night; the solemn dirge,
stealing on the ear, and resppnding from the
vale and hanging hill of St. Francis; made the
scene particularly interesting.
August 15. — Solicited permission to take
the air Avith Mrs. Lindley. At four in the
afternoon, the linguist came to accompany usy
as a guard. We took a Avalk to the sweet val
ley, once of the Franciscans; which from every

21"
point of view is elegantly delightful. Return
ing by the sea cliff, We passed the town, and.
crossed to the hill which descends to the inte
rior village; wherewe sat admiring the almost
unbounded sqenery of the distant country
around, and the vale below. The departing
sun's rays were reflected oh the Windings qf the
river; which was strongly contrasted with the
dark impenetrable woods through which it
rolled its course, losing itself in the west.
16th. — Our sentinels have been sometimes
i
soldiers, and sometimes inhabitants, both re
gularly relieved. This day we had for guard an
ancient of full ninety years, but whose facul
ties were the most vigorous and lively of any
old man's I ever saw : his eyes retained all their
fire, his step was tolerably strong, and his
pulse full and regular (which is not always
found even in the youth of this relaxing clime).
He was very cheerful, and chatted with me,
though forbid ; repeating many anecdotes of
the town and settlement in his younger days;
and, like most old people, crying, how much
superior they were to the present; though, in

22
justice to the old man, I must declare his re
mark is not unfounded respecting Porto Se
guro, there being evident marks of neglect
and decay.
I7th. — Information came from Tranquoso,
of the Indians having yesterday been in the
skirts of the woods near the village, and shot
two Mulattoes : one, with an arrow, in the
thigh ; and another in the breast, Avho fell,' and
Was instantly massacred. His companion was
wounded in the arm and back, but escaped ;
though it was for the moment only, as he died
the same day. Ten musquets, with powder
and ball, were directly sent, for the inhabitants
to defend themselves.
The bows of these Indians are similar to
the English long bow ; about six feet six inches
jn? length, strong-made, of a ponderous wood,
but particularly elastic, and strung Avith the
dried sinew of an animal, or sometimes a pre
pared cotton cord. Their arrows are three
and four feet in length, well feathered, and
consist of one piece of light wood : the points
of the larger sort are simply the arrow taper-

• 23
ed, and afterwards notched for about eight
inches, to prevent its easy extraction; the
shorter have a broad scoop head, about four
inches long, and one broad in the centre part
of it, tapering each way to its point, and
where it joins the stem ; this head is concaved
to a sharp edge, and is a fatal weapon. They
harden both heads in the fire; and though the
whole arrow feels very light, and appears in
sufficient to pierce at any distance, yet it kills
at nearly as great a distance as an European
musket. August 18 to 24, — The commission, at seiz
ure of the brig, were accompanied by a guard
of about twenty soldiers ; probably conceiving
it "a dangerous business, although our only
arms were two rusty muskets. These soldiers
have since been employed in guarding the
prison ; which has filled so rapidly 3 that a rein
forcement .was ordered, together with dried
beef, and other provisions, the sudden influx
of such a number of people having caused a
temporary famine in the town.
On the 20th, a vessel arrived with forty

54
soldiers, and supplies; and the second day
after, the whole military marched to massy pre
ceded by a drum. Men, women, and children^
flocked from all quarters, as these passed. Not
even the finest procession could have attracted
a greater number than this novelty ; such a
sight never being remembered in Porto Se
guro by the oldest inhabitant.
The commandant, having violently .sprained
his thigh on horseback, sent for me ; and I took
the opportunity, while out, of endeavouring to
convey a letter (which I found means to write)
to my friends in Britain ; but I am very doubt
ful of its ever arriving in safety.
25th. — During all the visits I paid this
country, the ignorance of the inhabitants in
general constantly appeared ; but before my
imprisonment they showed some reserve : noAv,
however, their impudence is unbounded, even
to insult ; while I can only resent it by re
proach or unavailing complaint. The captain,
' Mor, who has superior apartments in the pri
son, takes the liberty of running into mine,
without excuse ; hot considering the situation

of Mrs. Liridley and myself, confined to a
small room, and who do hot at all hours chuse
such visitors : besides constantly using my li
quor for himself and friends,, notwithstanding
he knows I purchase it on the spot, and have
no support alloAved me. The judge ordinary,
or magistrate of the town, daily visits the pri
son, and uses the same freedom : this mom- ,
ing he presented us with a basket of eggs, beg
ged a silk handkerchief in return, and, whilst
talking on the subject, reached a clothes-brush
from the wall, and, sans ciremonie, brushed his
hat in our fates. Each poor meal we make,
we are necessitated in the first instance to ser
cure our door from intrusion: and a thousand
other meannesses we daily endure.
The very dress of the mert (particularly in
the morning) is shocking to a person of the
commonest delicacy. They promenade the
prison in a thin pair of callico drawers that
scarce reach the knee, with the shirt loose over
them, and no stockings or hat : if cool or rainy
weather, they sometimes have the addition of a

26
cloak or bed-gown loosely wrapt round them.
In short, maugre every exertion of patience,
our situation is miserable ; and most gladly
shall I hail the happy day of our arrival in a
land of decency.
August 26 to 29. — The minister Claudio
arrived with six prisoners from Carevellos, the
chief inhabitants ; consisting of the judge ordi
nary, treasurer, and members of senate: drag
ged from their homes for disobeying the 7722/2-
tary orders of a lieutenant, sent, by the gover
nor of Bahia, for the better regulating the
export of farinha. A general removal took
place in the prison, for the accommodation of
these new-comers, who are allowed to receive
visitors and friends. Thank Heaven ! I keep
my poor apartment still, without any altera
tion ; having, however, my fears of another
visit to the dungeon.
30th. — The Carevellos gentlemen have so
general an acquaintance, that their extensive
room (the largest in the prison) is crowded the
whole day, and sometimes nearly all night. The

27
©nly table is eternally surrounded with card
parties ; another group conversing or dispute
ing; some eating on a chest, and their slaves
huddled in a corner. All this creates such a
miserable confusion, and perpetual buzzing,
that it gives us a constant head-ach. The life
of these men is a specimen of the coast in ge^
neral. In their eating, abstinent to extreme :
yet not actuated thereto by appetite or tem-
perance, but sheer avarice ; as no people fare
heartier, or drink more, when partaking of a
plentiful table, and not at their own expence.
Here they eat scarcely any regular meals, but
severally help themselves as their stomach of
caprice dictates ; the food being chiefly fa*
rinha ; a little soup, or fish liquor, to moisten
it ; with a morsel of meat, or salt qr fresh fish,
when to be procured cheap. In their sleep
ing, they observe the same irregularity : some
of them being on their truckle bedsteads and
mats the Avhole day ; while others are up all
night at their only employment, cards.
Sept. 1. — The window of my small apart
ment opens into a narroAV passage, formed by

28
the back of the prison and an adjoining house,
which is selected as a place of convenient re
tirement for the Carevellos prisoners ; so that
I, shall be obliged to keep my window close
shut, and endure a dark room in future. When
¦will the hour of deliverance arrive f
2d. — 7 'he minister Claudio taking examina
tions in the prison. It is astonishing to see
the fearful awe this man inspires ; all con
fusion ceases at his entrance, and the prison is
completely hushed till his departure. He has
been a second Jeffreys here, persecuting the
whole country on one pretext or other.
3d.> — Very poorly; partly through a heavy
train of thought, Avhich at times overpowers me,
and I find it impossible to avoid. If alone, 1
might probably stifle my sensations; but to
see the delicacy and feelings of m}^ wife con
stantly hurt, is too severe. Her society at this
moment of trouble is invaluable ; yet I still
lament the affection that prompted her accom
panying me in the voyage, and has thus in
troduced her to a land of misery.
Sept. 4.— A Serjeant brought a request from

29
\he commandant, that I would endeavour the
recovery of a servant belonging to his suite ;
who directly after was brought into the room
adjoining my apartment, and thrown into a cor
ner like a heap of dirt. I found him in a high
fever, apparently near his last gasp : and on in
quiry, Avas informed that he had been ill twenty-
seven days, lying about the guard-house, gradu
ally getting worse, and totally neglected till this
moment . I accommodated the poor wretch with
a mat, &e. and, after giving a restorative, left
him to its effect : but he had scarce lain ten
i
minutes, when a priest came to confess him ;
and, clearing the room, sat down by his peni
tent. Not content with this exertion, he de
clared the indispensable necessity of the sacra
ment, which was administered with all its
forms ; and, as if determined to give exhausted
nature no respite, proceeded vvith extreme
unction, taking from his pocket a small silver
box, containing a green ointment (previously
blessed), and with a spatula extracted a small
-quantity, drawing it over the eye-brows, lips,

$0
nostrils, ears, fore-head, soles of the feet, palms'
of the hands, and back, of the sick, repeating av
short prayer over each, and finishing the whole
With others. On my remonstrating with the
ghostly father about being so tedious at such a
moment, he declared that, having secured the
sinner from all demoniacal influence over his
corporeal functions, &c. he could leave him to
the effects of his constitution ; as now, whether
he died or recovered, was perfectly immaterial.
5th to 11th. — The commission have cer
tainly behaved to us Very harshly in every in
stance ; and exerted their authority to the ut
most, to distress both our persons and feel
ings. On our imprisonment, they permitted
Us to take a small travelling trunk, which, un->
fortunately, contained my linen only ; and the
several petitions I have since made for the
trunk containing my wife's clothes, have been
entirely unattended to, or eluded. On the
7th, I repeated my application, but have
had no answer whatever. The same day, I
Was requested out to visit a sick person; and,,

31
returning, passed the dungeon where my un-
fortunate.sailors are confined : I went to speak,
and console Avith them; when the soldier
Avho stands on guard over their grate rudely
denied me, and declared he had an express
order for that purpose. At a distance I saw
the linguist, and went to explain on the
matter; but the sentinel who attended me,
said, that all future intercourse with him also
was prohibited, except in presence of the
commissioners. My crew have had their bit
ter portion of severity. I havcalready noticed
the scarcity they at first experienced, which
has been remedied only in promises ; and had
I not hitherto secretly contrived (at some risk)
to convey them a little assistance in provi
sions and liquor, they never could have endur*
ed their horrid situation. Not content with
half starving, one of them was cruelly beat for
remonstrating on the subject ; and two days
ago, through some trifling dispute, their knives
and razors were taken from them, a poor devil
put into the stocks belonging to the dungeon,

32
and a musket pointed down their trap-door
while this was transacting. .
The weather has been lately tempestuous to
extreme, and a vessel entered in consequence
forshelter ; the owner of whichpassed my prison
window, and I recognised him for a Portuguese
whom I had known before on the coast. I in
stantly resolved on writing a packet for Eu
rope, and sending it by this stranger in prefer
ence to those around me. I have completed
my design with some difficulty, and most ear
nestly hope the letters will reach their destin
ation. 12th. — Tie happy tidings have this day
been announced, that our departure will take
place at an early period ; merely waiting for
some trifling preparations, and a fair wind.
This has at once made all bustle and stir: and
several sailors were brought into prison, to re
main till sailing; which is their only mode of
manning vessels on king's duty.
13th. — I was called this morning to visit a
sick planter, who chiefly cultivates mandiqck,

S3
that invaluable root which forms the farihha,
or bread of South America, and I had an oppor
tunity of minutely viewing the Whole process
of preparation . Mandiock is a knotted shrub
that runs to the height of six feet and up
wards, but without branches ; the root, which
is the only useful part, somewhat resembles a
narsnip, but is much larger. It is planted
by cutting the body of the shrub into short
lengths, and sticking them into the earth,
when they immediately reshoot, and, after
growing for about twelve months, the root is
perfectly formed, but varies in size accord
ing to the fertility of the ground, from one to
twenty inches in diameter, and from six inches
to two feet in length. The roots being pulled
up, and the exterior bark cut off, a farinaceous
substance remains; milky and glutinous ; this
is rubbed to small pieces against a rasping
wheel covered with perforated copper, and re
ceived into a trough below ; it is then dried in
shallow pans over a slow fire, till all moisture
is evaporated, when it appears a dry granu*
D

. Si
lated substance, and is ready for use. Tapi
oca is the juice of the root drained from the
raspings, and granulated in like manner over
a slow fire. t
Farinha was in use among the Indians of
South. America at the time of its discovery,
and imperceptibly adopted by its conquerors,
wheat, not agreeing with the soil, and man-
diock being cultivated at an hundredth part
of the labour and expence,.
Sept. 14.— I am ashamed of recording an
instance of the filth and indelicacy of the
Wretches around us, which would scarcely be
credited, could I not' refer the incredulous to
those who have visited Spain, Portugal, or the
southern continent : noticed there among the
vulgar, it is here seen among all ranks : I mean,
the shocking custom qfisearching each other's
heads for vermin. Both sexes do it indiscrimi
nately, particularly the females, who fill up
their vacant hours with this elegant amuse
ment ; nort: except at the time of meals and
*esta, can you scarcely visit a house, in which

35
some of its inhabitants are not thus occupied;
I mention this to-day, as, on entering- the
apartments of a neighbouring prisoner (late a
respectable man in the province); I observed
him, whilst conversing, deliberately recline his
head on the knee of his wife, thinking thepre^
sence of a stranger no hindrance to the ope
ration I have mentioned, which he seemed to
consider as a sort of enjoyment^ for he conti-
• nued his discourse very coolly at the same time.
With us, a . certain cutaneous disorder is
thought peculiarly disgraceful, even among
the lowest classes, and is used as an insulting
opprobrium on our northern natives ; but in
Brasil it is a generally avowed distemper, nor is
the smallest idea of shame or disgrace annexed
to it : perhaps its prevalence is the occasion of
this, none scarcely escaping it; even the ladies
shew their delicate fingers, and complain of the
saaf^n.- The cure of this disorder is hardly ever
attempted, till it settles at last in a scaly leprosy,
particularly on the stomachs of the men, who
ate5 provided with apertures in the sides of
to %

36
their shirts, when in undress, for the accom
modation of scratching, baring their arms to
their elbows for the purpose ; and this they do
before any one, publicly and unblushingly, con
sidering it as a mark of ease, comfort, and be
ing at home !
I could go further in describing the faulty
manners of Brasil, till it ended in the blackest1
secret vice; but I already blush, that these
pages should contain such stigmas on civiliza
tion ; yet, so far, truth demands the record, as
the dark traits of a nation must be noticed, as
well as its brighter shades, to form a true esti
mate of its character.
Sept. 15. — There is something m the atmo
sphere extremely pernicious at this moment.
We are all ailing with slight feArers and head-
achs, one of my crew is very ill, the whole pro
vince around us complaining^ and the number
of burials, in proportion to the population of
the place, is incredible.
The small-pox makes dreadful ravages, as
do other distempers, chiefly through the un-

37
skilful manner in which they are treated ; bleed
ing, and clysters of human milk, being the
grand specifics. Dr. Sangrado never had truer
disciples and advocates than are found in Bra
sil: for trifling complaints they take blood
from the patient two or three times; in danger
ous attacks, eight or teri; and I visited a poor
devil that had been bled one-and-twenty times
in the space of nine days for a pain in the
breast ; of course, I found him expiring.
I have remonstrated on this absurd con
duct and endeavoured to convince them of
their folly, in thus indiscriminately having re
course to so serious an operation as phlebo
tomy; but prejudices are seldom easily eradi
cated, nor do I expect it will be otherwise in
this instance.
Sept. 16 to 21. — The stir hourly encreases
as our departure approaches ; every face bears
the mark of anxiety and inquisitiveness for
the moment : the reserve of the prison is con
siderably abated, and the sentinels are negli
gent, allowing me more liberty of conversation
than I have enjoyed since my confinement. I

38
procured an interview with the commission,
and find we are to be conveyed in our own
brig. - I again requested my trunk, and had a
promise qf its being restored previous to our
Voyage. A gentleman residing near the Coroa Ver?
meilj'a harbour adjoining to Santa Cruz, gave
me ah account of a boat arriving there, in ex-:
treme distress, Avith three Englishmen in it,
Avhose vessel had been lost near St. Helena;
and who, after a fifteen-days voyage, without
provision or water, reached this shore in an ex
hausted and dying state. They received imme-r
diate relief; but before they were thoroughly
recovered, they were marched to Porto Seguro,
arid thrown into the same dungeon I once oc
cupied, with the most unfeeling inhumanity,
under pretence of its being doubtful what
countrymen they were. One of them soon exT
pired under this additional calamity; the other
two, more hardy, bore it for some weeks, when
an order arrived from Bahia for their imme--
diate removal to that place.
'The gentleman could not give me the name

39
either of the men, or of the wrecked vessel * ;
and I wondered so interesting and recent a cir
cumstance had never before Jbeen related me.
I had my doubts, Avhich I mentioned to a
friendly ecclesiastic (the vicar of Villa Verde),
on his calling to bid me adieu, but he confirm
ed the whole account.
22d. — A soldier brought us a bundle, con
taining four chemises of Mrs. Lindley's, which
had been taken out of our trunk, and Avere
sent her for the voyage, without apology or
explanation* Some days since, when the com
mission promised me the trunk, I urged, as a
motive, my wife's deficiency of linen, and they
adopted this happy and delicate expedient of
supplying the want, instead of keeping their
Avord. 23d.— - The morning of departure arrived -t
a message early announced it, and caused a
* I have since taken great pains to ascertain this,, but
¦without effect, farther, than ,that one of the survivors _
was mate of the vessel, and that they were both sent to
Europe.

40,
general bustle, in which I heartily joined, at
the prospect of a change. About ten o'clock,
Sen'. Germane, a clerk of the commission, as
sembled the chief prisoners in the council-hall,
five-and-twenty in number ; the lieutenant and
troops were formed in the front of the prison,
where we joined them, and were escorted to
the hoUse of the minister Claudio, who, with
the officers of the country militia, and princi
pal inhabitants, waited to form a procession,
and embark us. The minister and militia offi
cers took the lead, in the midst of whom the
state prisoners indiscriminately marched, fol
lowed by the clerks and other officers of jus
tice, and after these followed my crew, loaded
with baggage, under the eye of a file of sol
diers; the prisoners from Carevellos then came,
guarded by another file, while the rear was
brought up by inferior prisoners, other troops,
and an immense of rabble.
The sight was novel to a degree, the whole
country nearly being assembled to witness our
departure, and we were thus conveyed down

41
the "winding walk of the hill to the beach be^
low.' I turned to survey this motley multitude,
which extended till it was lost where the path
sSAvept round the middle of the hill, but it ap
peared straggling again near the sUmmit, and
formed a most romantic scene.
Our embarkation was completed by noon,
and about two signal was made for sailing. We
passed the bar in the brig without accident,
but the sumack* was not so fortunate, proba
bly from draAving more water, and the number
of people on board, for it had not proceeded a
quarter of a mile before it was fast in the mud,
while we continued with a flowing sheet.
Sept. 24 and 25. — The brig was manned
with Portuguese, and hoisted their colour. It
conveyed myself and wife, three of my crew,
and two other prisoners, under charge of an
official of justice, and six soldiers, with their
corporal- The cabin was crowded nearly to
isuffocatipn, and I had great difficulty to keep
possession of a small partitioned birth in it,
* A two-masted vessel, polacre rigged.

42
26. — After a fine run, anchored in the bay
of All-Saints. A boat with a naval officer came
off, and a report ay as made to the goA-ernor,
who returned orders for every one to remain
on board till the arrival of the sumack.
Sept. 27. — At anchor: a Aressel near us sail
ed for Lisbon : what Avould I not have given
to have sent information by it of my situation !
but impossible : even a letter I wrote to Senr.
Lisboa, a merchant here, informing him of my
arrival, was not allowed to be transmitted.
28.— -The sumack arrived, and the commis
sion went instantly on shore. I remained in
anxiety respecting our disposal, and the steps
that might be taken ; but this was soon dispel
led, .by a serjeant arriving about four o'clock,
with a covered barge, to conduct us to the fort
de Mar, in the centre of the bay, facing the city.
His order was so precipitate, that he hardly
gave us time to get our few trifles into the
barge. During the passage, he told us that
our situation would now be far more tolerable,
not only as we should enjoy the fine air of such

43
an open situation, but that Mrs. Lindley, be
ing no longer a prisoner, would have opportu
nities of going into ^the city whenever sl^j
chose. This pleasing face of things raisea far
drooping spirits ; we passed the sea-port of the
fort with alacrity, and walked to the captain's
house. We were a little struck with the coldness
with which he received us, but inconceivably
more so, when he shewed us the dungeon of the
fort, and ordered our baggage to be brought
there. Seeingthe small rooms adjoining his house
occupied by officers, and others confined here,
I thought it was perhaps a momentary arrange
ment, and I suffered the serjeant to depart un
der that idea; but our baggage was no sooner
deposited, than the captain ordered us in, and
a soldier awaited at the door with an immense
key to lock it. Surprised at these appearances,
I requested Mrs. Lindley might pass to the
main, and remonstrate as early as possible re
specting such usage ; but the captain replied,
that she was likewise included in his orders for
strict confinement. My courage for the mo
ment forsook me, and my wife felt the most

44
agonizing distress. We stood at the entrance
of a dark vault, to which we could see no end,
and the idea( that the doors were to be closed
oh us in such a place, drowned my poor wife
in tears ; she supplicated a better fate, but to
no avail; she begged the trivial favour of the
door remaining open for the evening only, and
condescended to follow the captain with this
entreaty, but it was talking to the wind.
" During this scene, I remained silent, in a
state of stupefaction, gloomy images filled my
mind, and I thought we Avere noAV doomed to
a miserable confinement, if not a Avorse fate.
I was aroused from this stupor by the return
of the captain, Avho, producing the governor's
peremptory order, began harshly to insist on
our entrance. I entreated my Avife to exert
some fortitude, and calm her agitation, which
by this time had arisen to so high a pitch, that
I could scarcely support her trembling frame
down the steps, which we had no sooner de
scended, than the door Avas closed upon us,
and the massy bolt turned.
My first endeavours were to sooth and con-

45
sole my dear partner in affliction, and recon
cile her as much as possible to our horrid fate. ,
In this I partly succeeded ; and the first emo
tions having subsided, I left her to explore our
new prison. Through some apertures in the
door, a glimmering light was admitted, by
which I saAV that it consisted of a long arched
vault, with a plank work on one side for the
repose of its inhabitants, on which our bag
gage was loosely thrown : I shuddered at its
damp walls as I passed to the, further end, where
the atmosphere was so dense and humid, I
could scarcely breathe, and I hastened to re
gain the better air near the door. Notwithstand
ing the apparent harshness of the captain of
the fort (Senr. Joaquin Joze Veloze), I thought
he appeared concerned even at the moment
that he turned a deaf ear to my wife ; and this
Was confirmed by his presently returning, and
advising me to write a recremento to the go
vernor on /Our miserable situation, offering me
materials for doing it, and promising it should
be forwarded in the morning. I took his ad-

46
viee : I forcibly described our prison and its hu
midity ; I complained of being used as a cri
minal or murderer ; I adverted to Mrs. Lind
ley, and asked, why a female was included in
such severity, observing " that in this age of
civilization, it was contrary to the usage of all
nations, and the countrywomen of his excel
lency^ in Europe would have met with far dif
ferent treatment:" finally, I requested a de
cent apartment, liberty of air and exercise,
and the attendance of my servant,
I accompanied this remonstrance with a cor
responding one to the commandant, Bras Car-
dozo, appealing to his feelings as a man and
a husband,. and mentioning, that if such sever
ity Avas used to prevent my communicating
with any one, I pledged my honour strictly to
avoid it. After finishing my letters, the near
approach of night suggested the necessity of
making our bed, and arranging our few move
ables in the best way possible, which while we
were doing on the plank-work I have men
tioned, we had the satisfaction of seeing a

47
servant approach with a lamp, oil, and a large
jar of water; and the door was scarcely closed,
before I was again summoned to the grated
hole- by an officer from the governor, with
money for my weekly allowance, at the rate
of a crusado each per day, and another entire
new lamp, with, cotton for supplying it. These
appearances again depressed me, and took
away the latent hope I had indulged from my
written petitions.-
Night had now taken place, and by the lamp
we discovered a new source of annoyance, that
chilled us to the very heart ; several centipedes
were crawling, on the Avails, and a number of
large spiders came out of their holes, that were
apparently venomous, while an immense quan-
tityof brown locusts (the same as the common
ones in India, only larger) swarmed over the
vault, flying against us in every direction, and
dropping from its roof on our bodies. The
plank-Avork and bedding were covered, but we
had no remedy, and were fain to lie down ins
the midst of them. To sleep appeared impos-

is
sibje, and the more so from a number of rats
that chased each other, and were very noisy,
in seeming resentment of our intrusion into
their dismal abode : but in spite of all these in
conveniences, the care and trouble of the day
bore me down ; I bent to my bitter destiny,
and towards midnight closed my weary eye
lids. Mrs. L. was not so fortunate ; in half-
slumbers, weafy dozes, and frightful dreams,
she passed the night, and arose in a slight fever.
Sept. 29. — When I awoke, a few scattered
sun beams entered our grating. I rose in rather
better spirits, but I found my breast oppressed
with breathing the foul air, and I felt a headach
and dizziness. After a slight refreshment, the
rays of light becoming stronger, I was tempted
i
to a more accurate survey of the dungebn. It"
was far below the level of the fort ; the door was
composed of heavy timber, plated inside and
outside, with iron bars strongly bolted through
the whole ; and adjoining the door, the wall
in front of the arch was six feet in thickness.
Entering the door, three steps led to the vault,

49.
Which was about fifty feet long, nine broad, and
the same in height ; the plank work extended
thirty feet, a narrow passage running along
one side to the end of this work, where the
vault was left to its full space for some yards, '
terminating apparently in the centre of the
tower. Beyond its termination was a dark
arched recess, in which a large hole led to the
sea beneath : a door closed the entrance to
this recess ; on opening of which, such a, va
riety of vermin appeared, that I soon closed it
again, in shuddering. The dungeon was so
damp in every part, that we could already
feel it on our clothes and bedding. We cer
tainly cannot exist long in this situation, and
we only look to a merciful Providence for
relieft The serjeant who had carried my letters re
turned about eleven, with information, that
the governor had sent my letter for translation,
but the commandant Bras Cardozo was not
at home. He had scarcely finished bis report,
when we were most agreeably surprised by
£

50
seeing the commandant himself enter, with
two orderly Serjeants, and pass to captain Ve-
lozo's house: he almost instantly returned j
when the door flew open, and he led us out
of the horrid vault.
The captain invited us all into his apart
ments ; and after mutual congratulations, the
commandant informed me that he had gone
to the governor's on receiving my letter, and
found mine at the palace just translated : with
great intercession, and much difficulty, he pro
cured an order for our release from the dun
geon, to have an apartment, with the liberty
of the fort ; and, to prevent mistakes, he had
brought the order himself.
I acknowledged his kindness, for my heart
felt it, and, in spite of my endeavours, it ap
peared in my eyes : when this generous man,
this exception and honour to his nation, would
stay no longer. He squeezed our hands, beg
ged I would let him know all our wants, re
commended us to the good offices of captain
Velozo, and, pleading an engagement, abrupt
ly left us.

51
Captain Velozo introduced us to his wife
and family. He ordered a room to be pre
pared, and our baggage to be removed, dur
ing which time he shewed us the oratory of
the fort, adjoining his house, and behaved with
the utmost politeness. About mid-day we took.
possession of our new apartment, which is
a white-washed little room, paved with flag
stones, and open up to the tiled roof. The
door looks on the large platform of the Tort,
and serves for our only window.
CaptainVelozo accommodated us with some
dinner, and gave liberty of cooking in his kit
chen for the future. In short, we have every
appearance of a comfortable change, instead
Of the misery with which we were threatened.
In the afternoon we walked the ramparts,
which command a most elegant view of the.
entrance into the bay on the south ; the city
and country diverging from it on the east,
ranging along to the distant point of Mont-
serrat, arid charmingly interspersed with seats,
convents, &c. : to the north appeared a group
e2!

52
of distant islands *, and west of the fort is the
rich isle of Haporica.
Sept. 30. — Yesterday evening I was favour
ed with the company of captain Velozo, and
fin'd him far more intelligent than most of his
countrymen ; his abilities are not merely pro
fessional, and confined to geometry and tac
tics alone, but he is well acquainted with as
tronomy and other sciences, and converses on
general subjects with the facility of a well-in
formed man. It is singular that he is a native
of this place, scarcely ever out of it ; yet OAves
his appointment, and also the cross that is sus
pended from his button hole, to his merit only.
Captain Velozo is well acquainted with the
history of his country, and I promise myself a
fund of entertainment and instruction from
his society. I find my crew are confined in
fort Barbalho ; the captain (Mor), and sons'of
the minister of Porto Seguro, in San Pedro;

* The chief are des Fratrcs, Mai de Deos, des Fontanels,
and Maahuim.

53
the prisoners from Carevellos, in Montserrat;
and the rest, in the city prison.
Oct. 1 . — The fort de Mar repeats the sig
nals of all vessels entering the port ; which are
first made at St Antonio de Bar, and announc
ed here by a gun, with a tri-coloured jack for
three-masted vessels, a red one for brigs, and
Avhite for sumacks. To attend this duty, and
the other small offices of the fort, there is a
serjeant's-guard of twenty men from the regi
ment of artillery, which is relieved the 1st and
15th of each month: so that a fresh one en
tered this morning.
2.- — Several relatives of the captain's yes
terday arrived on a visit (I belieAre, of curiosity
pn our arrival) ; we joined them last night at
cards, after which the ladies sung several can
tatas. We have passed this day again with
them enfamille ; and so , agreeably, as to for
get, for the moment, all our sorroAvs.-
3_ — Captain Velozo's friends departed after
dinner, to which we were also invited. The
dishes were plain ; but far superior to those at

54
Porto Seguro, and the guests rather more re-*
fined ; yet even these had that miserable cus
tom of the country, using their hands instead
of knives and forks, although here was no want
of these articles. They first take in their fin
gers a little meat (which is always So much
over-done, as to be readily separated), then
vegetables, and farinha ; these they roll in the
sauce, oil, or soup, with which their plates
abound, squeezing the whole in the palm of
the hand into the shape, and about the size,
of a wash-ball; which, when thus prepared,
they convey into their mouths at once, and
whilst eating form another.
Indelicate and disgusting as such a picture
may seem, it is not overcharged ; both sexes
equally use this practice, and most classes;
even when before strangers, if by chance they
take up a knife and fork, yet they are soon
tired of a mode so unusual, slow, and tedious,
and they involuntarily drop it, and fall to
in their old way with redoubled eagerness.
It is true, that, as in the east, water is pre*

" 65
sented before and after eating ; but it is by
no means an apology for this barbarous and
dirty custom.
4. — The women of all ranks, even to the
negroes, adorn themselves with gold chains,
suspended round their necks, and down the
bosom ; these are generally from one to three
yards in length, and pass three or four times,
having pendant a crucifix (or Agnus Dei), a
eaint, or two square gold scapularies* pierced
and embossed with cherubim, &c. and open
ing as a locket.
The workmanship of these chains, and the
weight of the ornaments attached, solely mark
the difference of their bearers, The lady of
captain Velozo yesterday had a complete load,
while a poor woman who came on business
had merely a simple gold string with two sca
pularies of silk. It is not merely to religious

* Here called Bentos. They were originally instituted
by St. Benedict, whose image they often wear, and are
supposed to guard the wearer from sin's demoniacal in
fluence, &c. &c.

56
purposes that these scapularies are assigned j
they also serve as inclosures for charms to cure
or prevent some particular illness, or alleviate
a severe affliction. Whether the citizens have
adopted this superstition from the negroes of
Guinea, their slaves, or from what other cause I
know not, but they are generally addicted to it.
After a severe fever, I had an ague, which
lingered on me some time, and a gentleman
of Carevellos offered me an infallible charm
that would instantly dissipate it. I refused ;
but he pressed it on me with such warmth,
that, to prevent offence, I yielded to his offer.
He immediately wrote his. charm in a curious
triangular shape : this I was to wear close to
my heart, and every day at noon to repeat a
certain number of Ave Marias, Pater Nosters,
and Deo Glorias; with the caution of never
disusing it, under penalty of my disorder re
turning. I would have here inserted this in
fallible specific, for the benefit of such of my
British readers as are too easily imposed on
by similar impostures, under cover of some

57
never-failing pill, or powder; for I believe
both to be of equal service, but the Brasilian
charm more innocent : unfortunately however
for them and me, it was seized with my other
papers, and has never been restored.
. 5. — This morning an order came for me to
attend Sen1. Claudio, the minister of crimes,
on board the brig. I found him with a
clerk, linguist, and suite. , A bark lay along
side, to remove the cargo ; which business was
begun directly on my arrival, and continued
till evening^ Every article on board Avas sent
out, and a rough account was taken of the
whole. 6.'— Was sent for to the custom-house;
where, in great form, sat the minister Claudio,
arid other principal officers, to witness the
taking of the cargo out of the bark, and de
positing it in the royal stores, where it is to
be particularly examined to-morrow. At this
time I petitioned to have my trunk, &c. defi-
yered to me.
7 to 10.-^-Found the same attendance as

5S
yesterday. Examination of brig's cargo be^
gun, each article being separately inspect
ed. The fine goods were generally in a sad
ruined state ; through damp, and the depre
dations of rats, locusts, and destructive in
sects : very far from the excellent state they
were in at time of seizure ; probably occasion
ed by their continuing so many months with
out care or removal, in a wet hold never open
ed for the benefit of air, and full of vermin ;
subject too, during that time, to the vicissi
tudes of the torrid zone ;, that is, excessive
rains for some days, and folloAved by a burning
sun. The whole now underwent also a valua
tion ; but immensely low even for its present
condition, and 200 per cent, under its worth
on the spot : — the officers had probably some
laterit view in so doing. After this farce of
justice, the minister, &c. demanded, in great
form, whether the cargo just examined was
the same as when taken out of my hands. I
answered that it positively was not; being
now completely damaged in quality, and con-

59
Siderably diminished in quantity, through.
plunder, or some means or other; and this
I immediately proved from my books (in their
possession) almost in every article. This par
ticularly displeased the senior minister, which
I little cared for ; and the court was adjourned,
10. — The crew wrote me a letter, stat
ing their pay at eight pence a-day each,
which procured them subsistence but afforded
no clothes — an article they were very much
distressed for want of, two of them not having
a shirt. I mentioned this at the custom
house to-day, and requested a shirt for each
of them, from among a number in the cargo ;
but this was refused. The minister howeA'er
condescended. to give them their chests (now
empty), the remains of a cask of beef, and
some damaged rice ; these being deemed of
no value. At the same time, I had the long-
expected trunk and other trifles delivered to
me, but no books or papers.
My trunk had most of its former valuable

60
contents taken out of it ; which I scrupled
not to mention, and enumerate the articles :
but this availed me nothing, and I gladly re-
turned to the fort with the part which I had
received. 11. — The inA'entory and mock valuation
of the cargo being completed, the minister,
&c. signed the instrument, which I positively
refused to do when called on in turn ; Senr.
Claudio peremptorily insisted that I should,
which I still objecting to, he threatened me
with every severity if I would not comply.
Having already experienced the effects of his
authority, I reluctantly submitted ; consider
ing it on his part as an act of force, by taking
a mean advantage of my situation while a
prisoner, and therefore as not really binding
my assent in any way whatever.
12. — The examination, &c. of the vessel,
Avas interrupted by the celebration of the
birth-day of don Pedro de Alcantaras, the
eldest son of the prince of Brasil. Twenty*

61
©ne guns were fired from the dock-yard^, and
the same number returned from the fort I am
confined in.
13. — Accompanied with Senr. Claudio, and
several officers of the dock-yard, went on
board the unfortunate brig ! A valuation, &c,
took place, as before with cargo ; but, if pos
sible, yet more ridiculous in point of real
justice of estimate ; amounting only to six
hundred milreas, or a hundred and eighty-
three pounds sterling : though she cost six
hundred pounds as a prize at the Cape, aboufc
eighteen months ago ; had since had several
additions and repairs in hull, sails, and rig>-
ging ; and, when taken from me at Carevellos,,
was infinitely superior to her first purchase.
My signature, notwithstanding, was again
required, and I gave it under the same idea
as before ; — that as constrained, it cannot be
valid. This completely finishing the affair, I
desired a copy of inventories, &c. offering pay
ment for transcribing it, but Senr. Claudio
flatly refused my request, ". as contrary to the

62
" practice of their courts." I was remanded
to my fort ; and saw, as I passed, the stores,
&c. of the brig, sent by water to a distant
king's-warehbuse for the present ; the vessel
being moored off the custom-house, with lower-
masts alone standing.
Ruminating on the last days, and my situ
ation, the uneasy reflection oppressed me
severely; increased by this being my birth
day — my thirty-first.
O God ! how happy has each fleeting year
glided away compared with the last ! Ten
years ago I observed it in London, encircled
by my friends : — how, a dreary prisoner !
The thought was too hurniliating. I roused
myself, banished the idea, and, determining
to rise superior to my fate, ordered from the
main some extras for dinner, which I request
ed the captain and his family to partake of,
with the liberty of my eating in his apart
ments, my own being too small and incon
venient. This he freely granted ; and sent to
shore, inviting no less than twelve of his

63
friends on the occasion, who did ample justice
to the table, ^&c. and the day passed agree
ably enough.
14 and 15. — I petitioned Senr. Francisco
da Cunha Menezes, the governor-general,
for an audience; wishing, if possible, to
know what he means to do with me ; but had
no answer.
16. — Was surprised with a visit from Senr.
Germane, clerk of the late commission; who
brought copies of the inventories, &c. taken
this week (to be sent for Lisbon),, with an
order from the minister for my signature to
these also. As I had complied, through ne
cessity, in the originals, I thought it incon
sistent to refuse in this case. I took the op
portunity to inquire how long our imprison
ment was to continue, and the eventual ter
mination of it : Senr. Germane assured me, we
were soon to be sent to Lisbon.
17.' — The captain of the fort has mass re
gularly celebrated each sabbath and saint's-
day, at an oratory for that purpose ; and a

64
Franciscan friar attends this duty, at the
rate of two shillings each 'mass : he is a re
lation of the family ; and continues here some
hours after service, to relax himself; but is
obliged to return to his convent before ves
pers, under pain of expulsion, except when
he obtains, from his superior, leave of ab
sence. On my observing to-day the incumbrance
of his ecclesiastical robes, after service, he ex
plained to me that no less than seven parts of
dress are indispensably necessary before a
priest can go through the function of a mass.
First, a battina ; or slight robe of black cloth,
descending from the shoulders to the feet.
Then the amitto, of white linen, that spreads
as a shawl around his neck. Over these he
puts on an aha, or loose Avhite linen robe
Avith sleeves ; which he binds around him with
a cingula, or white twisted linen cord with
large tassels. Around the left arm is affixed
the manipulo ; a slip of silk, about two feet in
length and four inches broad, spreading wider

*5
to the ends, where is a deep fringe : the co«
lours of the silk are always correspondent to
those of the stola and castila* The stola is
likeAvise of silk, worn over the shoulders;
crossing the breast, and fastened on the sides.
The casula surmounts the whole ; of thick silk
damask, fringed with broad gold lace, or
rich silk qf gold colour: it is about a yard
broad, before and behind, worn from the
shoulder to the knee, open on each side, and
closed at the neck, being put on over the
head. This last habit is of various colours,
as the mass of the day requires: such as,
"White for the services of the Virgin ; green for
Sundays ^.crimson for the Apostles ; purple for
the day of Innocents, the Souls of the Dead,
and for Lent ; and black for funerals.
This ridiculous sacrifice to form is severely
felt in thisNhot climate. Often have I seen the
poor minister in a close chapel, with the big
drops of perspiration chasing each 0ther down
his forehead, as he unintelligibly hurried over
the Latin service.

66
Oct. 18. — In conversation with captain Ve
lozo, he owned the justice of my remark,—-
that Brasil, considering the number of years
it has been colonised, the space it occupies,
and the inhabitants it contains, exhibits the
greatest deficiency of genius and curiosity, per
haps, on the globe ; at least there are no ex
ertions to evince these qualities.
The Jesuits, on its first discovery, were so
licitous in their researches after the products
of the country, the manners of its possessors,
names of their nations, and a number of other
observations usually made by Europeans.
Whether this kind of industry of the good
fathers was disencouraged by government,
or from what other motive, is unknown ; but
all endeavours on those heads ceased in the
middle of the seventeenth century. At the
present enlightened period of society, it is
singular the enquiry is not resumed by the
nation in general .-but it is not; — with an in
dividual exception in the person of father
Francisco Augustin, a priest of Bahia (to>

67
whom I was introduced in riiy last voyage
hither). His father was a rich merchant j,
and finding in the young Francisco a par
ticular inclination for study, early dedicated
him to the priesthood. Since his father's de
cease, who left him a fortune, the son per
forms none of the offices attached to his func
tion, but has retired to the enjoyment of his
favourite pursuits. Science in general is fa* ,
miliar to him; but botany is his immediate
object, and he could not have selected any
other branch that affords here such a scope
for observation— a country whose inexhaust
ible stores of natural productions are yet un
known, and will infinitely enrich the Avorld
when discovered.
To qualify himself for the different objects
which have engaged his attention, father Au*
gustin studied the French and English lan
guages ; and, by dint of indefatigable at
tention, completed himself in them without a
master: when I saw him, his library contain
ed very complete works in both languages.
f2

68
in the French I noticed Alembert's Encycltf-
pjedia, Buffon and Lavoisier; among our own
authors he had chiefly selected natural hi
story, political economy, travels, and philo*
sophical works; to which he had procured
the addition of a complete astronomical ap
paratus from London.
Robertson's America he particularly com
mended, and Smith's Wealth of Nations ; at
the same time lamenting " how little ' his sy-
" stems were observed in Brasil."
To show that he was in some measure ac
quainted with our political disputes, he pro
duced Paine's works; and seemed to lay
stress on some of his null opinions. Fa
ther Augustin has collected many valuable
articles of the marine, fossil, and mineral kinds.
His botanical discoveries have been numerous,
and he pointed out some new species; the
whole he arranges according to the Linnoean
system, and forwards to Lisbon.
Oct. 19. — It is astonishing to see ho av little
subordination of rank is known in this coun-

69
try : France, in its completest state of revo
lution and citizenship, never excelled it in
that respect. You see here the white servant
converse with his. master on the most equal
and friendly terms, dispute his commands,
and wrangle about them if contrary to his
ietter opinion—which the superior receives in
good part, and frequently acquiesces in.
The system does not rest here; but ex
tends to the mulattoes, and even to ^he ne
groes. One sees no humiliation except in
the patient hard-working drudge, the native
Indian. The same licentious freedom is found
in their marine and troops. On board of
ship an order is seldom issued without the
sailors giving their opinion on it, and fre
quently involving the whole in dispute and
confusion. In consequence, each officer walks
the deck with a stick of no small dimensions,
as a mark of authority; to use as occasion re
quires, and carry, on the duty of the vessel.
The captain of the fort I am in, traverses

70
the platform in a pair of coarse printed cotton
trowsers, a jacket of the same, with a supple
jack in hand, commanding his working party
of artillery-men under the title of comrades.
I took the liberty of remonstrating about his
wooden companion ; but he replied, " No
" duty could go on without it." At Porto
Seguro, I have often seen the lieutenant, Ser
jeant, and a private, in the same card party :
even the captain (Mor), and others the most
respectable inhabitants, betting, and taking
part iri the game, without scruple. This un
reserved freedom is productive of the most
pernicious consequence; you get no command
promptly obeyed, and strangers who expect
better are ever liable to insult. I attribute this
promiscuous intercourse to the general igno
rance that pervades the country ; as no people
pretend to more hauteur and reserve than the
Brasilians, or really have less, in their own
society. Oct. 20 to 22. — It is no small relief to my
present confinement, that the fort is cen-

71
trally situated among the shipping ; ever pre
senting a variety of objects' to arrest atten
tion, and divert reflection for the moment.
Bands of music frequently pass in large
launches, playing in their way to the neigh
bouring villages on the bay, to commemorate
the anniversary of some saint, or other par
ticular festivity. It is also a custom with their
European merchant-ships to have music on
their arrival, at departure, and the first day
of taking in cargo ; which repeatedly gives us
a little concert, and sounds charmingly from
the water,
These musicians are entirely black, and are
..trained by the different barber-surgeons of
the city, who are of the same colour, and have
been itinerant musicians from time immemo
rial : they always command a full band ready
for service ; and a variety of young learners,
whose discordant tones are hatefully grating
as you pass the doorsx where they are prac
tising. Numerous as these swarthy sons of
harmony are, they find constant employment :

72
not only as above mentioned, but also at the
entrance of the churches on celebration of
festivals ; where they sit playing lively pieces,
regardless of the solemnities going forward
within. Oct. 23 to 25. — On a retrospect qf what I
have written lately, I find it has more the
appearance of an unconnected collection of
essays than a diary. Yet I have penned the
remarks that have each day arisen, thinking
them more interesting than the insipid trifles
that now intersperse my existence : under
which idea I shall still continue frequently to
write, endeavouring to vary the tedium of
egotism and personality.
Even severe confinement cannot prevent
me from the calumny of an ignorant nation.
The last two days have been very stormy ; my
brig parted her cables, and drifted against the
stone ramparts of the dock-yard, beating till
observed by the sentinel, when it was secured
by the royal boats, and brought to its former
anchorage, It is kindly reported en shore^,

73
that I have been accessary to parting the
cable, it being visibly cut with a knife, &c.
26*. — Our expectations have been long
excited, of being sent early to Lisbon ; from
different intimations : and now seeing a Lis
bon trader bending sails and preparing fot
sea, and we still receiving no intelligence
whatever, again addressed the governor in a
petitionary letter, and sent it this morning.
In this I declared the injustice of our deten
tion, briefly recapitulated the facts to prove ,
it, and requested to be sent immediately to
Lisbon with my crew ; there to lay the whole
before the prince, and where I could advise
with an ambassador and consul of my own
nation. 27 to 31. — Three days elapsed, and no an
swer tq my petition ; when the St. Domingo
(the vessel' in which we confidently expected
to sail, it having been named to us by Sen1!.
Germane, &c.) saluted, loosed sails, and got
Under weigh-; thus destroying all our hopes.
We now despair of any change, till answers

74
arrive from Lisbon to the dispatches which pro
bably were sent in the above ship. My spirits
daily subside into careless apathy, and these re
peated disappointments deprive me of all hope.
Nov. 1. — A great day here; being the an
niversary of All-Saints, to whom the bay is
particularly dedicated.
Feeling for the crew (like myself, in a tire
some state of suspense), I wrote a letter to
them this morning, and requested captaiit
Velozo to send it by a soldier; Avho soon
j'eturned, with a report from the city, that
the English prisoners had broken through the
fort they were confined in, and escaped. In
the course of the day, eaptain Velozo con
vinced himself this was false; but he deferred
the dispatch of my note.
Nov. 2 and 3. — Another festival, appro
priated to the Souls of the Dead, from the
first man inclusive ; to relieve them, by prayer
and supplication, from fire, torment, and pur
gatory, and translate them at once to Para
dise. Voltaire gives a most ludicrous account

75
of this anniversary in his Additions to Ge
neral History.
4. — This morning I was surprised by a
summons on shore, brought by a marino * of
justice, to be confronted with the different
parties concerned in the affair of my imprison
ment. I went early ; and continued Waiting
some hours, in an hall of audience over the
prison, for the arrival of the minister Claudio:
which interval I employed in visiting the
prison, conversing respecting it with the
keeper and an European priest (confined here
nearly four years for some parochial money-
transactions), whom I found very intelligent
and communicative. My business was only
in part ready at a late hour ; and I was re
ferred till the morrow to complete it.
5. — A repetition of the unpleasant form of
yesterday, which was concluded this day; and
I was informed by Senr. Claudio, that all exa
minations, he. on my part Avere finished, and
the linguist was dismissed. I solicited a copy
'- * A superior constable.

7@
of the whole process ; which was denied me
with the same excuse as a similar request ha<$
been some weeks ago.
The form of their laws which I have just
completed, is called cariacao, the witness co-
riente, and the person accused cariade. A
man is here seized, imprisoned, and the depo
sitions taken against him : after continuing
an uncertain period (which is of short or long
duration as the party has interest or money),
he is examined j and his answers, whether of
denial, confession, or information, are written
and signed: he is then remanded back to
his confinement. Some further time elapses,
according to the magnitude or insignificance
of the affair, when the cariacao takes place :
the accused and accuser are confronted ; the,
accusation is read; and the prisoner is de
sired to give his answers on its truth, and
what he has to defend it. After these are
noted, the first examination of the prisqner
is repeated to the witness, whose remarks on.
it are also taken down, and the papers are

77
signed by both parties. This is transacted
by a judge or minister, and two clerks, whose
signature is added, to authenticate the whole.
The papers now pass to the court of justice;
who decide finally on the question, and pro
nounce sentence : from which, in some cases,
appeal lies to the grand court in Lisbon, or
it is referred to the clemency of the prince.
6. — I wrote a request to the governor, for
permission to pass the city, as I presumed riq
reasons could now exist for my close confine
ment. This I sent in a note to the linguist 5
desiring him to deliver it and obtain me an
answer, which I had not received to my last
two petitions, transmitted through the public
channel*. 7 and 8 . — A master of a sumack that enter
ed a day ago, came to make his report to the
fort from whence he' came, &c. (a form to
which the Portuguese' merchantmen are all
subject). I found that he spoke English ;
* By dropping them through an aperture in the hall of
the palace that leads into the secretary's office.

78
being a native of Madeira, and brought up
in the London trade. They only who haAe
been in my circumstances can conceive how
agreeable it is to meet, in such a situation,
even a stranger with whom we can freely in
terchange ideas in our native speech, and
hear some news of what is passing around.
For though I so lately conversed with the
linguist, yet it was merely in his professional
capacity before the minister : and as to in
telligence from the Brasilians, this is quite
out of the question ; as I never met a people
so stupidly incurious. They know only the
most public transactions, such as perhaps
peace or war ; and being not inquisitive them
selves, they are surprised to see a spirit of that
sort in others : thus circumstanced, I repeat,
how happy I was to converse with the stranger.
He offered me his services in the city, and
at his departure I troubled him with a note
to the linguist; and one to my crew: — for
captain Velozo had never sent my last to
them.

79
- 9. — Senr. Vincent Joze de Lima returned
with an answer from the linguist. The gover
nor had informed him, he could send no reply
to my last three letters, till the process should
be delivered from the minister Claudio.
10. — The Fort do Mar is used as a maga
zine for shipping ; which are under the regu
lations of landing all their powder on arrival
in the bay, except men-of-war. Besides this,
the fort has a considerable stock of its own ; so
that it never contains less than five hundred
barrels, and at times double that quantity;
The whole is deposited in four arched case
mates pf the upper battery * ; each having a
grated door, with, a solid one closing on the
outside of it. A great portion of this powder
is constantly damp, from the humidity of the
fort ; and this captain Velozo dries in the sun,
sifts, and re-barrels ; employing soldiers daily
for the purpose. The place which he has se
lected for this process is not ten yards from
his kitchen door, in the open air ; which cir-
* See description of Bahia,

80
curristattces, with the extreme carelessness of
the men while at Avork, continually alarms
me ; and the more so, as the outside doors of
the magazines are thrown open to ventilate
them, so that the smallest explosion of the
powder which is drying would communicate
to the whole.
I have taken the liberty of remonstrating
with the captain on this subject, and pointed
.out other places in the fort where the risk
would be far less, He agreed in what I said ;
but adcfed, that those situations would afford
the soldiers an opporturiity of stealing small
quantities of it : so that for the sake of a few
pounds of powder (the most that could be
secreted), he ventures himself, his family, the
lives of all in the fort, and even the place it
self. I do not conceive, however, this economy
is for the sake of saving her majesty's ammu
nition ; but rather imagine that captain Ve
lozo has a small trade in the article himself:
at least, he cannot bear the smallest quantity
to escape him ; and takes an account of all
that is fired, even to half-ounces.

81
II. — A seventy-four arrived yesterday,
carrying the ,pennant' of a chef-d'-escadron ;
she saluted with twenty-one gUns, and nine
teen were returned from hence. In about
an hour a message from the palace arrived at
the fort, that commodore Campbell, her com
mander (a North Briton), had complained to
the governor, because an equal number of
guns had not been returned to his salute ; —
and requiring to know the reason; Captain
Velozo replied, that two guns less to a com
modore was the immediate order of the prince
to all his forts. Afterwards captain Velozo in
formed me, that his orders were — equal guns to
an admiral, to a commodore as he had stated
above, and four less to a captain : to foreign
men-of-war, the same number were returned.
Foreign merchant ships, four less; and to
their own trading ships no answer.
However, commodore Campbell paid no
great regard to these precise regulations, for
a Portuguese merchantman entering this
morning, who saluted with nine guns, he re
el

82
turned an equal number from his ship, to the
entire confusion of our captain's etiquette — •
who quaintly declared, " that he considered
tf the fort as the cJiapeau of the governor, and-
*' would not move it on every trifling oc-

" casion."

12.- — This morning a message from the go
vernor brought information, that commodore
Campbell would visit the fort in the course
qf the day. He accordingly came, with the
intendant of marine, commandant Bras Car-
dozo, and other naval officers. After viewing
the fort, and receiving an explanation on the
mode of saluting, &c. he paid us a visit, en
quiring hqw long I had been confined, and th$
reason : our conversation ended with his; as
suring me that I might rely on his service, and
begged me to write to him in a few days, if
before the expiration of that time no steps
vyere taken in my favour.
Commodore Campbell is polite and unem
barrassed , ill his address; yet preserves hi$
dignity, particularly vyith the Portuguese, in

whose language he is an adept. As an officer,
he is said to be diligent and experienced ; arid
highly competent to the rank he possesses.
13.- — Whether our captain of the fort was
deficient in an apology yesterday (perhaps
laying the blame on his orders, which pro
bably the governor disowned), or through Ay hat
other cause it might be, the intendant of ma
rine waited on him this morning, and the re
sult was, captain Velozo's repairing on board
the seventy-four, to beg pardori for riot return
ing an equal salute to the commqdore's. On
his return, Which was immediate, he fired the
two unfortunate guns omitted.
I positively know that captain Velozo lite
rally obeyed his orders in the first instance ;
yet he condescended to so humiliating an ac
knowledgment of a fault that could not rest
with him. But in this despotic government,
the most Contradictory and iniperious Com
mands must be implicitly obeyed.
14. — Senr. Vincent has frequently called
• since I last mentioned him, and has executed
g 2

84
several trifling commissions for me with the
greatest punctuality; on this account, I re
posed perfect confidence in his integrity. A
day or two ago, our discourse falling on the Por
tuguese coin, and the deficiency in compa
rative value of the four-milrea pieces * to the
gojd joes; I mentioned that I had some of
the former, and wished to get them privately
exchanged for the latter, but was afraid to
trust any one around me vvith this business ;
as, if it should come to the knowledge of the
government that lAvas possessed of cash, they
might probably demand it. Senr. Vincent re
plied, that the owner of the vessel which he
commanded had a quantity of gold joes, and
would readily oblige him in my purposed ex
change; and, if I pleased, he would himself
immediately undertake it. Knowing that I
should be a considerable loser in carrying to
Lisbon the coin which I possessed, and fear
ing so good an opportunity might not again
* See Table of Coin in Appendix.

85
occur, I put twenty-five gold pieces into his
hands (amounting, in value, to a hundred
jnilreas, or twenty-eight pounds sterling) -s
which he promised to exchange in the evening
of the same day, or the following morning.
Yesterday was very rainy, and to that I attri
buted the non-appearance of the senior ; but
when torday had brought no news of him, I
began to doubt- the safety of my cash, and,
sent a messenger after him: but, alas! the
bird had flown ; and Sen1. Vincent turned out
to be merely a sailor put in the vessel as act
ing-master, the right master hot choosing to
enter Bahia under his own name, as he had
been concerned in the illicit trade of farinha.
15. — We were awakened this morning by-
being hailed at our door in English ; and to
our amazement found it proceeded from my
Jate mate and crew, who were liberated the
preceding evening by an officer from the pa
lace: he informed them, at the same time, that
they might go wherever they pleased, and
were not to expect any further public support.

So
The poor fellows hastened to the fort, and
procured admittance; expecting that the order
extended to us also : but we are not so for
tunate, although the circumstance certainly
seems to. promise some new arrangement.
The governor, in great pomp, visited com
modore Campbell? this evening ; and was re
ceived with yards manned, and a royal salute,
Which our fort returned.
It wasjust night before his departuue ;. whe»,
to* the great surprise of captain Velozo, an
other salute was given ; which he w-as unable
to answer, having only ten pieces loaded. He
dispatched an excuse to the governor instantly;
that it was impossible to load the guns, in a
dark night ; and promised the salute in the
morning: but the governor returned a thunder
ing answer, compelling our poor captain to
attempt the impossibility; and accordingly,
after two hours' immense exertions, he made
shift to load eleven more pieces, and fired the
whole at ten o'clock, to the surprise of the city
and its vicinity.

*7
16. — The different detachments from the
royal artillery which I have hitherto seen in
the fort, are the most beggarly set of beings
" that ever were honoured with the nariie Of
soldiers': they enter in an uniform consisting
of a threadbare bluejacket (generally patched
Or torn), coarse white calico waistcoat, breeches
of the same material, a white handkerchief,
and (a few only) Avith the remnant of a' wretch
ed shirt. Their hair is profusely powdered,
hats' as various as the wearers, arid legs encased
in spatterdashes of painted Tirieri. This dress
is pulled' off when' in the fort, and carefully
guarded; the men continuing in a ragged
shirt and old pair of draAvers, — frequently with
only the latter (except the sentinels). These
soldiers are chiefly boys, or mere shadows of
men, there never being five effective out of
twenty; and the Whole are enfeebled with
dirt, disease, and idleness; and' their coun
tenances are of every colour, frorri an Euro
pean white to the darkest shade of a Brasilian
mulatto. I wonder, not at their misery, but

88
how they exist ; for they live solely on banna-
nas and farinha, with now and then a small fish
or two : their pay affording no better fare. It
is two-pence a day only, Avith no rates of extra
allowance; and even contingences of clothes
deducted from that sum.
I took advantage of commodore Campbell's
polite offer of service, and wrote him a detail
of my imprisonment, &c. requesting his en
deavours with government to forward me to
Lisbon, procure me my private papers, &c.
17- — The linguist favoured me vvith a call,
and advised me to remind the governor of the
petitions already sent, and press for answers
to the same. I took this advice, and troubleoj
him with a letter.
18. — Stormy, with much lightning. The
prodigious heat that follows the sun's course
over this country, fills the air with igneous,
particles, that sometimes produce the most
terrible consequences. This not a little alarm
ed us on this occasion, from the quantity of
powder here deposited, and there being no

89
conductor to the magazine as a preventive to
the attraction that must subsist, from its isor
lated situation in the bay.
19. ---Received a formal visit from the lin
guist, in answer to my last address to the go
vernor : to acquaint me that, instead of be
ing sent to Lisbon, we must inevitably con
tinue till the arrival of an answer to the first
dispatches -sent ; but that, as some alleviation,
his excellency intended to give us the liberty
of passing within the bounds of the city. To
obtain this favour, the linguist added that
he (the governor) advised me to pretend ill
ness ; and to procure certificates to that effect
from a physician and a surgeon, and enclose
these in a petition to him, expressing that my
life was in danger by continuing so close in
the fort : and then he would interfere so far
as to give me Bahia for a place of confine
ment. This advice, this mean and paltry sub
terfuge from the great and mighty, governor of
a country, struck me with astonishment; and
I at first thought the whole was an invention

90
of the linguist himself; but he mentioned it
so firmly, and brought forward such other con
current circumstances, that I soon gave Up
this opinion; and, after some reflection, I ac
quiesced, determining to practise the deceit.
On expressing my doubt respecting the doe-
tors, he told me to be easy on that head ; de
claring, that for four milreas (rather above a
guinea) he would undertake to bring me cer
tificates without the trouble of a visit, and de
parted accordingly for that purpose.
, 20. — The linguist, in fact, to-day entered' the
fort with two papers from Seniors Joao Dia^
da Costa, cirurgeb, and Isidoro Joze de Lima,
medieus, both men of eminence in the city ;
who attested by the Holy Evangelists tha#
" Sen1'. Thomas Lindley was violently afflicted!
" with an universal heat over his body; which
" had brought on an haemorrhoides, besides
" otherwise affecting the entire system, and en-
u daggering his existence ; and that liberty of
" passing' in- the city, to obtain the advice and'
" refreshments- which' the place afforded, was

91
*' absolutely necessary in this case, to prevent
" the most serious consequences !" These I im
mediately enclosed to the governor as direct-
' ed ; and now expect an early answer.
21. The feast of the church Paroquiade
Concession, immediately adjoining the. beach,
Avas celebrated with much public solemnity;
and by the assistance of telescopes we were
able to view it. The procession consisted (as
is generally the ease); of a profusion of banners,
.jsilver crosses, images, and ornaments-; with
all the. religious orders, of the city bearing
tapers.- A regiment followed. Among the
figures were those of the Archangel Rapheal,
Saint Joseph, Our Lady of Rosario and of
Coricession* : the whole were aslargeas huma**
life ; the two latter being particularly rich, and
burthened Avith jewels j" ; round their heads a
constellation of the same precious material.

* Different attributes of the Virgin Mary> under each of
which her image is varied in position and dress.
f These consisted not only of the stones that have beenf
presented at the Bhrine of the Concession by religious

92
It is astonishing to see the veneration which
these images create among the people ; who
really worship them as devOutly and abjectly
as if they contained the essence of the Deity
himself, descended on this occasion in propria
persona. The forts, shipping, &c. saluted re
peatedly ; and it was quite a gala day.
22. — Had a visit from my poor crew; who
wished jointly to depute me, to procure repa
ration, if possible, for the extreme injustice
which they haye sustained. For this purpose
they now signed the necessary documents,
previously to their shipping themselves in
other vessels, and leaving Bahia.
23. — Day after day passing Avithout any
answer to my late papers, I sent to the lin
guist to enquire the reason. He returned with
an evasive answer, that the minister Claudio
must first be consulted.
24 to 30. — Commandant Bras Cardozo paid
devotees ; but likewise of all that can be borrowed from tbg
parishioners, and other private, persons in the citye for the
/occasion.

93
us a visit 3 and informed us, that it was entirely
owing to the kind remonstrance of commodore
Campbell with the governor, that the latter
had been induced to adopt the happy expe
dient mentioned in my journal of the 19th
instant. The linguist wrote me that it was very sin
gular the governor had not yet given any an- .
swer to my certificates, &c. and advised me to
write again. I was much hurt; and replied,
that my partial liberty would not compensate
for the repeated neglects Avhich I had met
with, and I should not give myself the trouble
of any further application.
With the pure and refreshing breeze from
the sea, with the cool vapours that must arise
from so aquatic a situation, one would con
ceive the atmosphere which we are in to be
*
sufficiently temperate : but it is not so ; pro
bably owing to the reflection of the sun's rays
from the white surface of the fort, which ren
ders the place a perfect oven, debilitates every
muscle in our frames, and we frequently wish

9l
ourselves in the frigorific extremes of a Scan
dinavian winter. Fahrenheit's thermometer
stood at 103° in the shade.
Dec. 1 . — The linguist came from the gover
nor ; who at last granted us permission to pass
the city in the day, on condition of returning
to a fort every evening : and, for the greater
freedom of such return, he gave us the choice
of forts Barbalho or Montserrat : we deter
mined on the former.
2. — No further information ; and expect
yet some new obstacle. I could have borne
with indifference an immediate refusal to the
whole application ; but this delay harasses me
most tormentingly.
3. — The Iong-expe'cted order for my re
moval arrived ; but, Mrs. Lindley being in
disposed, deferred it till morning.
Procured a copy from captain Velozo, of
the governor's first order to him for the im
prisonment of myself and spouse *. '
4. — At nine, bade adieu to the Fort do Mar ;
* See Appendix.'

95
atid by mid-day were lodged, with our trifling
effects, in fort Barbalho, where we had one of
the best rooms selected, and appointed for us ;
but miserable was the best : — of sixteen feet
square ; with one window only. The floor
of brick, apparently not washed for a century;
the walls (once white) hung with cobwebs and
insects ; two shelves erected in a corner, and
a recess containing others, all covered with
filthy dust ; and on one side a broken door
tottered on its hinges, opening to a dark apart
ment, through the crevices of which several
fpmales were peeping to observe our entrance.
In short, the whole made me regret the supe
rior accommodation of Do Mar, and it is my
partial liberty only that can compensate for
the exchange. The captain, Sen1. Joaquin
Alberto Matos, received us; apologising that
the house of her majesty was in such bad
order, which he attributed to the parsimony
of government. He appointed a place under
the apartment as a kitchen for our servant j.

96
and opened the dark room adjoining, which;
he also offered : but it was so inconceivably
dirty, that we declined accepting it. In the
evening, captain Matos, his Avife, daughter,
and two sons, with a body of friends, slaves,
&c. came on a coagratulatory visit ; and sat
for about two hours, with all that insipid
formality which is usual among them.
5.«^-Fort Barbalho is situated on the outside
of the city, on an elevated site, and commands
two important passes from the interior of the
peninsula. It is an irregular square, fronting
the four cardinal points of the horizon : two
of its corners are composed of a quadrangular
bastion, and the others of a half-moon. The
surrounding fosse is deep, Avith a draw-bridge
over its' entrance. The Avhole structure is
strong, and in an unimpaired condition : a
few straggling guns peep over the embrasures,
but are completely ruined by neglect and
time. The house of the commandant is erected
on the south-side of the rampart ; and, con-

97
trary to the fort, is in a neglected and ruinous
condition. The fort itself is entered through
a deep strait port ; with an exterior door, and
another leading to an inside green square be-*
neath the ramparts, along each side of which*
are several offices (the casemates of the ram*
parts), which are built on arches. These of
fices have lately been occupied by upwards of
three hundred French prisoners, taken on the
coast in the course of the last war; and, if
kept clean, are well adapted to the purpose — -
the square into which they open having suf
ficient air, room for exercise, and a supply of
Water from a reservoir in the centre,
The particular casemate used for confining
the sailors of my brig, and in which they were
locked every .night, is small, with a grated
door ; and has a drain from above, passing
through the back part, that emits a most in
tolerable stench : I mention this as a proof of
the pointed hatred, and total want of huma
nity, exerted on the occasion ; so many of the
other casemates being vacant, more roomy,
H

98
arid convenient, and without the nuisance just
spoken of. , During their imprisonment, six
soldiers were ori duty ; but now none appear,
and the fort is riierely occupied by its peace
able inhabitants: except several black laun
dresses, who daily frequent the square for the
water which it contains.
The same party as yesterday, towards night,
came to pay their respects (or rather satisfy
their curiosity) ; arid nearly filled our small
abode. After they had continued some time,
we were surprised at their introducing five
riiale strangers, severally provided with a sword
and large stick : I did not wonder at their
abrupt appearance, as I knew the manners of
the nation ; but could not help enquiring why
they were thus armed. They answered, it
was to defend themselves against the attacks
6f negroes, and other villains who infest this ,
neighbourhood. Some whispers passing between them, and
the dark rascally look of one of the number,
created in me an unpleasant sensation ; which

99
was increased by captain Matos being called
out by a soldier, and our soon after seeing him
converse with an aide-de-camp of the governor.
Altogether this, seriously alarmed us, and ex
cited a painful suspicion that some new event
was agitating. However, our fears were pre
sently dispersed by the departure of the whole
company from my room, and soon after from
the fort : but it was some hours before sleep
chased away the ideas which fancy had con
jured up.
• 6. — Took advantage of my new situation,
to go to the city; where I paid my grateful
respects to Sen1'. Bras Cardozo, and received
the congratulations of several acquaintance
on this alleviation of my imprisonment.
Returned by noon, and found that captain
Matos had enquired for me in my absence.
Stept into his apartments, to learn the reason;
when he took the opportunity of, showing mq
his house and (wonder riot, reader !) his manu
factory : for he had originally been a gold
arid silver-smith, which occupation he still
h 2

100
publicly continues ; nor is it thought any de
gradation or disgrace to his military rank,
either in the regiment of artillery, or as com
mander of the fort. At present he employs
about four-and-twenty workmen, who fill every
apartment of the building, except that which
I occupy, and a small oratory.
As a tradesman, he conducts his business
with great success; each branch being carried
on separately, and having its respective ar
tificers. These people are chiefly whites, and
free mulattoes; and are paid a mere trifle
daily, with the addition of lodging on one side
of the casemates, which has been adapted for
this purpose. How degrading a mixture in
the ranks of society this appears to our ideas !
for, admitting the captain to be a proficient
in his trade, it is not so clear whether his abi
lities would, on that account, be exactly suited
to the defence of an important fortress, ac
knowledged one of the keys of Bahia. I can
not conceive what happy power first dele
gated this trust, or saw any particular qualities

101
in the man to deserve it ; be it as it may, sUch
appointment was confirmed in Lisbon^ and
twenty-two years Senr. Matos has had peace
able possession of Fortuleza Barbalho.
7- — 'Not having seen the linguist for some
days past, called on him ; and find his absence
owing to a domestic calamity • — no less than
a divorce from his wife (a native of Calcutta),
who has lately transgressed with a common
serjeant !
The mode of conducting legal causes of this
nature is very different from ours. The first
application is made to the judicial power,
Avhich gives ^orders to confine the frail culprit
till issue of the affair : and then, after exa
mination of witnesses, &c. transmits the do
cuments, and refers the final determination ,
and sentence of divorce to the ecclesiastical
court, so far as respects the man and wife ;
reserving to itself the punishment of the male
delinquent. This latter measure consists of a
severe fine and imprisonment, towards those
who can afford it ; but in the present instance.

102
it is expected, will be degradation to a pri-»
vate, and transportation to Angola.
The business is always dispatched without
delay :. and -if the case is very flagrant, the fe
male is doomed to a convent for hfe, to be
maintained by the husband at about tenpence
per diem. The parties cannot marry again
, during their joint lives.
8. — The feast of Nosso Senhora de Con
cession. Attended the same in a neighbour
ing church ; where, after grand mass, a con
cert of sacred music was performed by a full
band, with vocal parts. The want, of seats in
all Catholic churches is particularly incon
venient on an occasion like this; for the
whole celebration occupies full three hours,
which long time of standing diminishes the
pleasure and the interest of the scene.
The female auditors were in the centre of
the church, and dropped on their hams in a
manner peculiar to the ladies here. A few
seats were placed near the altar, for the ac
commodation of the chosen male part of the.

103
neighbourhood; to whorti were distributed
small engravings of the heart of Jesus sup<-
ported by cherubim, and bouquets of artificial
flowers. This politeness did not extend to
the females, who were situated at a greater
distance : but a marked neglect of the softer •
sex is predominant in Brasil qn every occasion.
9 and 10. — Completed our attempt to make
the room allotted to us rather more decent,
at some expence and labour. Our captain
Avondered at this trouble ; declaring, that he
thought it extremely ridiculous in me, so ten>
porary a possessor, even to have the floor
cleaned. The appearance of his house is per
fectly consistent with this advice; as I ac
tually concehre the dirt not to have been even
washed out during his residence there.
11. — Through a great part of last night I
was harassed with uneasy reflections on our
situation, and the scenes through which we
have passed : to dissipate which I arose early,
and strolled to the green-market on the beach ;
where many small launches daily arrive, from

104
the numerous inlets and rivers of the interior
bay and neighbouring coasts, depositing their
various vegetable cargoes. This abundant
display of tropical produce is a rich and pleas
ing spectacle. The square plain of the mar
ket was filled with loads of cocoas, water and
musk melons, pumpkins, the ponderous branch
ing clusters of the plantain, the delicious ban-
nanas of San Thome, sweet oranges of the
European stocks, and smaller Chinese ones ;
together with the better acid native sort, in
troduced from this continent to Seville. The
annanas thus brought are little valued here;
and certainly inferior to our own, though arti
ficially produced. There are besides immense
quantities of other fruits ; such as jacas, mam-
mams, jenepappe, guavas, mangoes, tama
rinds, ginger, mangaboes, &c. &c. Nor was
there any deficiency of culinary"stores ; cab
bage, yams, mandiock, peas, beans, cucum
bers, sallad, &c. abounded; and the whole
was relieved by the odour of the bouquets sold
by the female mestezo tapoyan.s — consisting

105
of jessamines, carnations, and roses, all pecu*
liarly fragrant.
I wandered surveying this variegated scene*
while the freshness of morning continued ; till
the sun's rays growing unpleasantly warm,
began to raise disagreeable exhalations from
the decaying vegetables of former markets,
which substances are never removed.
12. — Weather gloomy. Continued at home
in the day, and of course in the evening;
which latter passes very heavily, having no
Society in the fort to relieve our own ; for
captain Matos at no time possesses an idea
beyond that of his occupation, and his nights
are engaged in the religious ceremony of the
Rosario. We used to have this last -mentioned
annoyance at the Fort d° Mar, but consider
ably simplified in comparison with what it is
here; consisting merely of captain Velozo and
faihily repeating aloud the bead-roll of a hun
dred and fifty Ave-marias, and, at each tenth
a Pater-noster, finishing Avith a form similar
to the litany of our church:— the garrison

106
performing the same at their quarters in a
sort of recitative. But the pious captain Matos
illuminates his oratory, assembles his work
men and slaves, and has added to the usual
devotional course several other invocations and
prayers to the whole calendar of saints ; the
performance altogether occupying full two
hours : and part of this time in so doleful a
strain, that, in spite of the contempt in which
I hold this excess qf superstition, the mono
tonous repetitio'n infects me, and I am happy
when sleep gives me a respite for another
twenty-four hours.
13. — Visited captain Velozo, and my late
prison. My conversation with him turned on
the salary of the fort-officers, which I find to
be so incompetent to support even a common
family, as to prevent all surprise at any petty
resources, or even (almost) meannesses, to
which the commanders may be driven for its
increase. The signal-forts that may be termed in ac
tual service pay only three shillings and four-

107
pence a-day to their commanders, with the adr
dition of a small quota of farinha; and the
many other fortresses ungarrisoned (viz. Bar
balho, San Pedro, &c.) a potack only, about
one shilling and tenpence, daily.
14.rr-rThe best spots of land immediately
adjoining the city are the property pf either
convents or government. Some of the latter
description are applied to charitable pur
poses : particularly St. Lazarus, about a mile
distant from the fort, consisting of an exten
sive hospital, chiefly for lepers ; who have the
benefit of a fine air, and all the refreshments
which the country affords, to relieve them. It
has a number of milch cows immediately be
longing to it, and extensive plantations of
mandiock surrounding in every direction ; and
there is a large building for converting this,
root to farinha.
On an eminence, a small neat church be
longs also to the charity. It is kept remark
ably clean ; but is too far distant from the
hospital, and can be used only by conva-

108
lescents. We peculiarly enjoyed the walk
over the whole situation, as it exhibits a higher
prospect of industry than we have lately been
in the habit of seeing.
Among the grounds, we observed a spot
where several negroes were at work, planting
sets of the pepper shrub, which has been lately
imported from India by the immediate order
of the governor. A trial of it was formerly
made, and it throve uncommonly Avell ; but
the then government saw reasons to prohibit
its culture, which do not seem to exist at this
moment. 15 and 16.- — I have already observed to
Avhat a degree original literature is neglected,
and nearly unknown, here : as a proof of which,
I have enquired at all the booksellers in the
city after new French or English works (to
amuse my vacant moments), but to no pur
pose ; they not having one, ancient or modern.
One bookseller indeed, with some exultation,
produced a Portuguese translation of Robinson
Crusoe, and particularly recommended it; but,

109
after a due acknowledgment for his offer, I
took the liberty of declining the purchase.
1 7- — Being indisposed, I continued at home,
and took no part in the general rejoicing on
the queen's birth-day; which is celebrated
in much the same way as with us, by firing
of shipping and forts, a review of the troops
in the square of the palace, levee of the go
vernor, &c. &c.
18.- — The view from fort Barbalho deserves
the vivid eye and able pen of a Gilpin, to
pourtray its rich scenery and elegant vicinity;
I shrink unequal to the task, in attempting
even a slight delineation.
Passing the draw-bridge to the south, the
road winds to the city over a green flat, sur
rounded with gardens and plantations. At a
distance, opposite the fort, we see a small
house or two, having walls leading from them;
which, Ayith some horses grazing round the
paths that intersect each other in various di-
rections, gives to the whole the snug appear
ance of many small commons frequent in Engt-
land.

no
West of the fort is a deep cultivated vale*
over which the many towers and spires of the
city make their appearance, glittering with
the glassy tiles that cover them. The eye,
sweeping to the northward, and passing the
green ramparts of fort San Anthonio, is struck
with the end of the outer bay ; which peeps
below, azure, stiff, and serene, as a fresh
water lake, crowded with the triangular sails
of canoes and fishing-boats.
Jutting across the bay, the narrow penin^
sula of Montserrat extends ; interspersed with
churches, convents, and seats : over it the view
proudly towers, and another bay appears ; but
is lost among distant islands, beyond which
the mountains of the continent rear their blue
heads, and terminate the prospect.
North of Barbalho is the convent and church
of Solidade, apparently embosomed in trees to
the eastward : from whence a deep vale de
scends, in whose back ground are the rude
pountry and native woods in all their verdant
majesty; adding variety to the scene, and
dignifying the whole.

Ill
19."~Went with Mrs. Lindley to the con
vent of Solidade ; through a straggling street
on the hill, in the direction of the bay : but
instead of a country walk, which we had ex
pected and intended, found ourselves exposed
to the impertinent curiosity of numbers who
on this day (Sunday), like our cits in England,
had strolled to their Casas de Campo, and stared
with astonishment to see a female without the
appendage of a chair *.
The convent has nothing to make it remark
able, except its gloomy, extensive, appear
ance; which, with the close wooden lattices
that guard each window, gives it the look of a
prison. The church is dedicated to Our Lady;
and contains a shrine famous for its miraculous
recovery of the sick and afflicted, who have tes-
tified their gratitude by numberless offerings,
many of which shine resplendent from the
image of the Virgin. A topaz, in particular,
of an astonishing size and lustre, emitted its
* See description of Bahia. '

112
rays, and gave me a sacrilegious wish that I
were its possessor.
In a valley, at a small distance from Soli-
dade, are a garden and pleasure grounds of
a rich merchant which I have heard highly ex
tolled. They glittered, at the distance from.
which I viewed them, with statues, &c. but I
reserved a nearer inspection till another day.
20. — Attended the audience of the gover
nor ; and, after waiting some time, was intror
duced by an aide-de-camp, who attends for
the purpose. I passed three extensive saloons ;
and in the fourth two folding-doors were
thrown open, to the presence chamber.
Francis da Cunha Menezes is about fortv.
tall in person, and has the polite unembar
rassed appearance of a man of fashion. I
thanked him for our late indulgence ; and,
after an exchange of the customary compli
ments, took the opportunity to request my
private papers, which I had already so fre
quently applied for. He desired me to give
him a representation in writing to-morrow.

113
, 21. — While sitting at dinner, a knock at our
door announced a Stranger. An elderly man,
decently dressed, pressed in with open arms,
and in an exclamation in English requested
to embrace me. I shrunk back, startled at
so novel an introduction, and desired to know
who or what he was. On his professing
himself my countryman, and that he came
merely to visit me, I offered him a seat, which
he took, and then fell into discourse. He
began by apologising, that he had forgotten
his native language through disuse, having
left his country at an early age, but offered
in its stead the Portuguese, Frerich, or Latin,
with each of which he seemed familiar. The
strong lines of his face, and his pronunciation
of the English which he spoke, indicated most
forcibly that he was a native of Caledonia.
He continued the whole afternoon, con
versing with a curious reserve ; till his fre
quent recourse to the wine and spirits on the
table, removed this restraint. — I then found
that his name was Gordons his father had

114
been a near relation to lord Lovatt, and was
concerned in the rebellion of 1715. Follow
ing the same principles, he himself, when
young, had been engaged in that of 1745;
and, having distinguished himself, was neces
sitated to follow Charles's fortune into France ;
where, and in other parts of the continent, he
had continued for a number of years, serving
in the French and Spanish armies, and having
once in that period visited London.
For the last five-and-twenty years the old
man had been a resident in Brasil, which
country he bad internally traversed in several
directions ; and had resided at the diamond
mines a long time^ in partnership with another
person. They were very successful, in pur
chasing as occasion presented ; and came to
Bahia with a considerable wealth thus acquir
ed, Gordon's share alone amounting to forty-
eight thousand crusadoes; but while prepar
ing to dispose of this property, his partner
had eloped with the whole to Lisbon, and left
him in the condition of a beggar.

115
Since that period he had chiefly resided in
the neighbourhood of Sergippe del Rey ; arid
during the whole of these wandering, various
scenes, never felt a day's sickness, though he
was now seventy-three years of age. In his
discourse he evinced a smattering only of
the various learning to which he pretended,
and was besides a confirmed bigot ; for, not
content with declaring himself a Catholic, he
said " he despised my religion" (before knowr
ing it), " and all others except that of the
" Holy Roman church." I answered, with
more urbanity, " that I respected all ;" a
declaration which still more displeased the
old man.
To my questions for information respecting
the country, I got only evasive unsatisfactory
replies from him, that nearly gave the lie
to his pretended superior knowledge; never
theless, he said he had written on the subject
in a history of his life. On my pressing to
see this, he flew off again in his discourse ; de
claring that it related events which should be
12

116
knowh drily after his death. I then requested
the part that respected Brasil; and he as
sured me that I should see it. I put into his
hand some volumes on the subject, which he
approved ; and he recommended further Pere
grine de Amerique, which I shall endeavour
to procure.
Towards evening he was peculiarly strange
and mysterious. He professed a knowledge
ofmeandmy affairs that surprised me ; and
used the names of ministers of the relacio, and
of 'government, in a curious manner; but never
AA'Ould come to any point. A favourite spa-
niel Avhich I have, he desired me to sell ; and,
on- refusal, said that a minister, his friend, had
taken a fancy to the animal ; and if I would
not dispose of it, it should be stolen from me.
In short, he went so far, that I concluded him
either a spy or a madman, and hinted my wish
for his absence ; but, instead of this, he de
clared that he should stop all night. I told
him this was impossible, but in vain : . and in
the, end I was obliged to conduct him to a

41?
casemate below ; where, accommodated with
bed-clothes, he continued till inorning, but
was away long before my hour qf rising.
22 and 23. — Sent a representation to the
governor, as he directed ; which was returned
with, a reference to the minister Claudio. I
waited on the latter ; and was informed that
tormorrow if possible, qr at least after the hor
lidays, I should find an answer at the secre
tary's office, at the palace. a. -
Called at the house of a brother mason, and
was casually introduced to some others of thp
society. Masonry has ever been decidedly forbidden
by the. laws of Portugal, and too many victims
on account of it have fallen into the hands of
the inquisition . and of the civil power: but,
notwithstanding, it has lately taken rOof.j
arid several lodges have been established in
Lisbon, Oporto, &c. amorig whdse members
are many persqns of rank, military and naval
officers, &c. &c. This is known by govern
ment, but is tacitly suffered, which is not the

118
case in Brasil ; where are also several of
the society, who conduct themselves with the
greatest reserve, but have not yet any regular
lodges. That there is greater latitude on
this head at present, is evinced by my ma
sonic certificate being seized with the other
private papers by the minister; which I
have since avowed, and without any ill effect
whatever. 24. — Walked to the church of the Fran
ciscans ; where a solemn office was performed
over the remains of a rich colonel, of the
island of Itaporica, attended by the governor
and the principal inhabitants.
The body was placed within the rails of the
altar * ; adjoining which sat the superior of
the monastery, supported by the guardian
and provedore : all most sumptuously habited
in robes of black velvet, nearly covered with
a deep rich gold lace. At a small distance,
and at the head of the corpse, were tAvo monks
. * A considerable space is left, in large Catholic churches,
between die rails and altar.

119
at reading desks, in white point-lace A'est-
ments ; and extending from them in a double
line on each side to the altar, sat other bro
thers, in their usual habits, each with a quarto
A'olume of the office in his hands. The body
was lying on a pyramidical bier of four heights
(with pillars supporting each), surmounted
with a coffin ; the whole covered with black
velvet, embroidered with double borders of
broad gold-lace, and the pillar's entwined with
the same.'
The deceased lay in the first space (or story)
of the bier, dressed in his habit as chevalier
of the order of Christ ; — -a white sarsnet robe,
Avithshort scarlet cloak and scarf of satin, red
morocco buskins, a silver ornamented helmet,
with gloves on his hands (the right grasping
a rich sword) : the face was exposed, and he
appeared about forty years of age.
The office was sung, an organ and full band
accompanying: on its ceasing, the friars and
spectators, each bearing an immense wax
candle, followed the body to the centre of the

150
church .; Where it was deposited, and the doors
were closed. i
25 to 28 . — My Christmas dinner was neither
attended with friends, nor enlivened by so
ciety. Solitary I sat, indulging in retrospec
tive thoughts of happier times. My best
friend checked me ; and, recollecting, we con
cluded our morsel, thankful for the present
good. In the afternoon we took an unfre
quented path from the fort, which led to a
cultivated valley, and amused ourselves in
viewing the rich vegetation till evening. "("
Christmas is observed here as a great holi
day, by all ranks. The good things of this
life, in the eating and drinking line, do not
entirely abound on this occasion, as with us;
the genius of the people not lying that way :
but they make parties to the neighbouring
villages, and continue some days ; banishing
the general reserve with music, dancing,
cards, intrigue, &c. The church of Boa Fim,
on the peninsula of Montserrat, ip a cele
brated place of assembly for amusement at

121
this time ; where, after performing their de
votions, they welcome pleasure in the vicinity;
thus uniting religion and voluptuousness, and
clearing their consciences of old sins ere they
commit new ones. The situation of the church
is described as beautiful and worth viewing.
29 and 30. — Had two trips to the city after
my petition for my papers, and was referred
till after the holidays.
Enquired at the house of a friend (an
apothecary) for a person to accompany me
in the woods, to inspect £ome medicinal
plants ; but was surprised to hear that he him
self procured these by purchasing them of
slaves and mestezo indians at his own door,
as offered for sale, and no one in Bahia has
any other method. He could only refer me
to a chance enquiry in the gardens arourid
the city.'
31. — I commenced my search, but in vain.
J then attempted to find what I wanted with
out a guide, in an adjoining wood; where,
after continuing some time .without success,

122
and scratching myself severely, I penetrated
through the thicket to a great distance from
my entrance. A house was near, to which
I had recourse for enquiring my wa'y to the
city : I found it to be a country seat called
Matatu, most delightfully situated. I was
directed through a jessamine and rose walk to
the road, which was shaded with lofty trees of
the jakitacaba, loaded with massy fruit.
After passing some other charming retreats,
arrived at the fort to dinner, but completely
fatigued ; and I shall not be in a hurry to re
peat such an excursion in this climate.
1803. Jan. 1. — I begin the year in trouble
and embarrassment ; yet' still with a perfect
reliance on an almighty protecting Provid
ence. While reading aloud to amuse the evening,
I was suddenly taken ill, and obliged to re
tire for the night.
2. — Find myself affected with even- symp
tom of a fever, and my nerves tremulous to a
!high degree; can scarcely guide my pen. This

123
day finishes the holidays, of which wo have
had no less than seven celebrated in the last
nine days.
3 to 5,— Nearly recoA'ered, but not free from
fever. Senr. Barrato, an European physician,
visited me, in the kindest manner, on hearing
of my illness ; and desired me to be under no
apprehension, as a day or two will restore me.
This has given me fresh spirits ; for I much
feared the effects of such an illness during the
intense heat which now prevails.
6. — To-day ventured in the air, to witness
the mode in which the inhabitants celebrate
Twelfth:day. It is called by them Dia des
Reis, or " Day of the Kings ;" in allusion to
three who are' supposed to have worshipped
and offered to our Saviour, with the wise men
of the East.
Here itinerant musicians with [guitars,
drums, &c. began last night (the e\'e, or vigil,
of the festival) to traverse the streets in groups
from house to house without ceremony, mak
ing a barbarous discord in each ; and after re-

124
peating a regular silly form, pass on to annoy
the next inhabitant : this they continued the
whole night, particularly in the vicinity of the
city ; while crowds participated in the rude
mirth, and seemed to enjoy the scene. To
day this was continued with apparently ui>
diminished zest ; even each passenger in the
street was encouutered, and joked in return ;
in short, it resembled an Italian carnival in
confusion^ but was deficient in all the poignant
wit and lively interest which this latter fes-
tival inspires.
What relation this ceremony has to the
good kings whose memory is thus so curiously
preserved, I have not yet learnt : but I cannot
help thinking it a pity that these dark ves
tiges of the fourteenth century are not gene
rally abolished.
7 to 1 1 . — Three times have I visited the
minister Claudio for my .papers, in vain ;
nearly exhausting myself in the severe heat,
as he lives at a distance : but I will not re-
• peat the application.

125
If a man in office could feel how much de
graded he appears in the failure of a promise*
such cases would surely not occur so fre
quently. 12 to 17. — Once riiore had the happiness to
see the British flag displayed in the bay. It
was from a private India ship; the Triton, cap
tain Anstiss. I went on board, and was re
ceived in the most friendly way by the cap
tain ; who accommodated me with the riews
of the" day, which I have so long and-ardently
desired : I continued to a late hour, enjoying
this novel treat ; and feel myself absolutely
revivified by the long-lost indulgence of so
ciety. Five gentlemen of respectability, among
Whom Were a captain and a lieutenant of in
fantry, also paid a friendly visit to captain An
stiss on Friday last ; which being reported to
the governor, he instantly ordered their arrest
and confinement. This measure took place
yesterday, together with the arrest also of the
lieutenant of the guard-boat on duty at the
time of the visit. Positive oiders were likewise

126
issued, that no inhabitant should be admitted
on board; or boats alongside^ the Triton. In
consequence, s'ome ship-carpenters going on
board this morning with a pass from the in-
tendant of marine (or port admiral), were stopt
by the guard-boat and compelled to return.
18. — I advised captain Anstiss to make im
mediate application to the governor, and ac
companied him in the character of linguist.
His excellency received us with every mark
of politeness, and excused the severity by par
ticular orders which he had from his court on
that head ; referring vis, respecting the car
penters, to the intendant of marine. We went
td that officer, who said that common car
penters were not sufficient to examine the
vessel's damage, and there must be a survey
of the Triton by the officers of the dock-yard.
19- — These officers accordingly attended in
great form ; and reported that the ship had
sprung a leak in her boAvs, in a place so con
cealed by timbers, that it was impossible to
repair it without unloading the vessel.
20.— Captain Anstiss obtained his certi-

127
ficate^of survey ; and was directed by the in-
tendant to address the governor (by petition)
for leave to unload, repair, and sell part of the
cargo to pay the expences.
2 1 . — The good porter and' cheese on board
the Triton (articles to which we have been so
long strangers), tempted me to request of the
governor permission to land a small quantity
of each, not wishing to infringe his strict re
gulations : but the matter was so great an
object to the revenue and government of
Bahia, that my request was refused.
In the evening walked with captain An
stiss to visit the new prisoners mentioned in
my journal of the 17th, who are confined in
the council-room of the barracks. We found
them very comfortably accommodated, and
surrounded with friends, consisting of the gen-
teelest inhabitants of the place ; among whom
was a priest of the city, a musical composer,
who sung his . own strains to a guitar, whi|e
wit, laughter,'and wine, abounded: they made
light of their confinement ; and the moments

128
passed so agreeably, that I left them with re*
luctance. 22. — Captain Anstiss received for answer
to his petition of the 20th, that he might urn-
load under the immediate superintendance
and inspection of the guard di mor, and a
clerk of the custom-house : but the liberty of
selling to liquidate his expences, could not be
granted; a new order having lately arrived
from Lisbon,- that in these cases a sufficient
quantity of gqods must be taken from the
vessel or vessels and sent to Lisbon for sale ;
out of which the original debt, freight to
Europe, and- expence% of sales, are to be de
ducted, and the overplus (if any) returned to
the owners in London or elsewhere.
Such is the assistance which gut faithful
allies of Portugal give to our commerce ; and
such the hospitality to be expected by unfor
tunate vessels in distress who seek their shores,
if unhappily they have not letters of credit,
which in this distant part of America few are
provided with.

129
Not content with taking immense sums for
port charges *, and having six custom-house
officers constantly on board, besides other
impositions; they now have adopted this
new mode of distress, to injure the unhappy
itranger. Captain Anstiss remonstrated against this
answer in vain ; and then requested that a
vessel might be sent to unload the Triton,
which the intendant faithfully promised for
the 24th.
23. — A small brig whaler, the Vigilance of
London, entered the 18th for repairs. The
master, however, finding what kind of a place
he was in, hurried his business, and in an in
complete state was ready for sea this morn
ing, but unprepared to pay the charge already
incurred ; the vessel was therefore detained,
although he wanted a trifle only of complet
ing the sum I had the pleasure of seeing
him out of their power before evening.
24. — The intendant made the most paltry
* See Appendix.

130
excuse, on application, for the promised vessel ;
and finally said, none was to be procured.
Captain Anstiss, much hurt, declared he could
oiot submit to further delay : but wOuld take
a few workmen, and repair his ship in the best
manner her present situation admitted; re
questing a pass for the purpose, which the in
tendant granted.
25.— The boats with the workmen arrived
alongside the Triton, having an intendant's
pass, countersigned by the governor, Avhich
they produced to the lieutenant of the guard-
-boat, who permitted them to go on board.
They were, however, still prevented, by the
custom-house officers ; till they should obtain
the permission also of the provedore of the
custom-house. Captain Anstiss was justly
exasperated; being thus no forwarder, after
encountering immense difficulties and con
tinuing thirteen days, than on his arrival. He
came on shore ; and, with some further trouble,
we obtained the leave of the provedore, and
the, carpenters- began. their work.

isa
I have been .tediously .particular in daily
^detailing this affair, in order to inform those
who, may touch at Brasil, what ;they may ex
pect, if ,not provided against suGh .difficulties
^beforehand. The same form,. delays, and vexation, .egdgt
.throughout the extent of the coast. At JRio
Janeiro they used to be more tolerable; but
now thatplaqe is also on a complete equality
in these; respects : for this extreme severity ^
a new and general measure, and seems to de
note a political hatred striking at pur corii-
,merce, which in all probability will soon.de-
velope itself more fully.
26 and 27-— "On an excursion towards upper
Tapagippe,and skirting the heavy woods whieS
(extend to the interior, ;I observed the trees
more loaded with bees' nests than even the
neighbourhood of Pqrto Seguro. They con
sist of a ponderous shell of clay, cemented si
milarly to martins' nests, swelling from high
trees about a foot thick, and forming an oval
mass full two feet in diameter. When broken,
Kg

132
the wax is arranged as in our hives, and the
honey abundant; but this latter substance is
here little valued, sugar being so plentiful.
The wax is also neglected by the Brasilians;
the supplies of that article being very great
from their African colonies.,
28.' — In the cool of the day took a walk with
my wife to the garden of a merchant near Soli-
dade^— the wonder and pride of Bahia : it is
situated most charmingly, but the place itself
is frivolously arranged and decorated in the
old French style; consisting of small flower-
parterres laid out in various shapes, and guard
ed by numberless leaden divinities and sta
tues, which marked each angle of the walks,
and were stuck on the walls of entrance, steps
and terrace of the house, &c. &c. A small
fountain was -in the centre of an inner garden;
and beyond that a grotto, miserably disposed,
and the shells paltry, notwithstanding .this
country affords so great a variety of valuable
marine and concrete productions.
A summer-house covered with a beautiful

133
native running shrub, attracted my attention j
as did also the variety of flowers, several of
which are non-descript. The grounds' around
the garden are yet untouched, and capable of
being disposed in the most elegant style ; but
though the possessor has unbounded wealth,
and a peculiar penchant for his residence, he
wants that discriminating taste and eye to
nature necessary for completing a work of this
kind. 29. — While intently reading the various
news and publications which I had procured
from the Triton, I heard a tumultuous noise
in the square of the fort, and conversation in
the English language. On looking out, I saw
a number of people under a guard ; and found
them to be the captain and crew of a whaler
brig, the Anne- Augusta, wrecked to the south
ward a few days since, and now conducted to
the fort as a residence. I welcomed my brothers
in misfortune, and endeavoured to make them
comfortable for the night.
30. — I endured the noon-day heat, in en-

deaVoUririg to collect a few of the many ele
gant butterflies and moths which abound about '
this hour ; but was soon exhausted by the im
mense Warmth, and returned unequal to the
exertion. In the evening resumed my purpose". During
my long tomv an elderly Indian stood in the
recess of a wood with a musquet half-pointed;
which rather alarmed me. He was waiting
for tatoos, or armadilloes*, which seldom
appear before dusk: they are animals of the
swine species, and are esteemed fine eating.
I think them rather insipid ; somewhat be
tween a sucking pig and a rabbit. This Brar
siUan game is usually roasted in its armour;
SI, to Feb. 3.— -The fineness of the evenings
here cannot be surpassed in any climate ; and
this part of the day,' after the extreme warmth,
is irresistibly inviting. We walked out to San '
Lazarus f ; where our foreign appearance at
tracted the director's attention, who politely
* See description of Porto Seguro.
f See Journal of December 14.

135
invited us to repose a momerit, and brought
out the general collation of the genteel Bra-
silians — fruit, confection, and bread, Wine, and
liqueur. After our repast, I accompanied him
alone through the hospital. This building I
think well adapted to the purpose of its found
ation ; possessing the benefits of air, and wa
ter whose mineral qualities are of great service
in the cure of that afflicting disorder the
leprosy. The wings are appropriated to male
patients, arid the centre- reserved (entirely
apart) for females; the wards are clean, arid
below have a number of baths and; convenient
offices., This edifice' was erected about seven
teen years' ago at his majesty's expence ; arid
is more than supported by the grounds at
tached to it, which we are invited1 to visit
to-morroAV. The plantation of San Lazar evinces that
the soil of Brasil is capable of raising the united
products of the globe, Here are seen luxu
riantly abounding the spices of the Moluccas,
the rice of Asia; the grain of Europe, arid the

136
various tribes of pulse and farinaceous roots ;
besides the riches peculiar to America, both
in fruit and vegetables.
This spot of industry has been immediately
patronised by three successive governors; and
reflects great honour on them, as holding out
a pattern which, if generally followed, would
not only enrich, but make the country a per
fect paradise. The old gentleman (an Euro
pean) Who has conducted the whole, accom
panied us in our walk; he mentioned that the
orange and lime trees, after setting the shoots,
bear in two years, and are fine trees in four;
many examples of which he pointed out. A
number of the young trees are exposed to
dreadful ravages from the large brown ants ;
which, if they once take possession of a tree,
strip it of every leaf in the course of a few
days, and injure the tender bark so that it never
recovers : not even fumigation, or any other
method yet discovered, prevents the destruc
tion when once begun. The trees are there- '
fore generally planted in a circular trench;

137
where water is constantly supplied for the first
years, till the tree attains such a growth as to
bid defiance to this puny destroyer. It is not
only the orange tree which this insect infects,
but cultivated "vegetation in general ; to pre
vent which, plantations of this sort are chiefly
in valleys, encircled with an artificial stream,
and the nests of ants are carefully destroyed
within. Feb. 4. — What an envious antipathy exists
against poor England ! A vessel arrived from
Lisbon this day, has brought intelligence of a
general insurrection in the south of Britain ;
that the rebels are in great force, and the go
vernment will surely be overturned ! This news
they date the 4th of December; and, although
I have reasoned on its impossibility (captain
Smith * having spoken a vessel December 2),
and informed the good folks that the origiii
of all this must be some trifling disturbance
of the miners, my rhetoric is unavailing, and
* Late, master of the wrecked vessel Anne- Augusta,
mentioned in the journal of Jan. 29,

138
they will insist that old England is now in%
volved in certain ruin !
5.' — Bahia is surely advancing in civiliza*-
tiori : the European dress I see daily: more
gerierally adopted among the ladies ; and I
am informed of a new establishment con>
mencing this evening,- — no less than a public ¦
concert with card parties twice a-Aveek, con
ducted by the chief musician here (an Italian).
The regulations seem to promise that this in
stitution will continue select, and may lead to
a more unreserved and familiar intercourse than
has hitherto existed in the society of the city.
6 to 12. — The Triton departed. We shall
feel somewhat solitary after this, having had
the agreeable pleasure of their society for seve
ral weeks;
Sem. Gordon, whom I mentioned some time"
since, made his appearance again, and apolo
gised for his behaviour wheri here before; a
continuance in which extravagance occasioned
an accident soon afterwards, that has been
the cause of his eclipse so long>

139
The old man; it seems; had" fallen down a?
deep flight of stairs, and contused his head- in-
such a manner, that he was obliged to undergo'
a very serious operation, which he has; luckily*
survived. I requested the papers which he
promised me ; but he continued- to excuse
himself on that point, and evaded the subject.
The book which he recommended * I have
, perused; and find it merely an old moral.
tour in Brasil1,- coriVeyirig scarcely any real
information. On captain Smith's arrival about ten days"
past, I recommended his sending launches
with his mate and people to the wreck, to en
deavour the recovery of part of it. They not
returning as expected, Smith was extremely
uneasy, and set off With four seamen and a
whale-boat, in search of them : the night was*
very dark ; and a fresh breeze carried them
nearly out of sight of land, Which they regained
with some difficulty: had they been forced a
league further, it is doubtful whether they mus£
*" Peregrine de Amerhruei

140
not have been lost ; being without either com
pass or provisions. They found the launches
loaded with a considerable salvage, which, on
their return, the government immediately or
dered into its own custody, to be disposed of.
13 to 17. — The surrounding valleys abound
in orange trees, now in universal blossom.'
The air is at once unusually full of their fra
grance ; a circumstance occasioned by a low
heavy cloud passing at the instant, and which,
compressing the volatile particles of the at
mosphere, thus gave them a more perceptible
body: in a short time, the cloud evaporated
in a heavy rain, and the temporary sweetness
was destroyed.
The sun passed us two days ago for the
northward, and it is worth observing how its
progress has been marked by rain: slight
showers beginning some days since, which
keep increasing, and I find will lead on to
the wet season, commencing generally in
March, and continuing (with scarcely any in
termission) till May.
We employ most of- our evenings in stroll-

141
ing round the exterior of the fort, and select
ing the most curious, plants; but firid an im
mense, and irremediable, want in having no
systematic guide to direct, our botanical en
deavours. -
18. — An application has been this day
made to captain Smith, for information re
specting the establishment of a whale fishery
by shipping from hence.
The coast abounds with whales. A few
only of them are killed in large boats from the
shore, to which the prizes are conveyed for
boiling; but the oil thus produced by no
means corresponds with the consumption* and
is consequently dear. Some merchants, more
than usually enterprising, wish to obviate this
by sending vessels out on the British plan of
boiling on board : and this scheme, if carried
into execution, must answer every expected
advantage ; from the quantity, of whales at
their very door (as it were), which will not
only supply them at a cheap rate, but also
form a most valuable article of exportation.

1,42
19. — The .immense trouble which Smith
finds in arranging his affair, so,perplexes hint,
that J have taken it in hand; the delays -of
government in rthe most trifling ,business-are
astonishing. The salvage had been delivered
to their custody ; and documents;innumerabIe,
with offices in proportion, I have had to pass,
to get it out again for sale.
Some trifling articles the private property of
the master, he .requested by petition to have
granted to him* Previously .to his obtaining
them, he was, obliged to justify his clairri by
three witnesses; and four sheets of paper Avere
filled , by an attorney with the process: this,
after being recorded in a proper, office, had
then to pass five different signatures for giving
it validity; the expences thus amounting to
nearly as much as the effects were worth.
20.-T-A young lady of sixteen was this morn
ing professed at the church adjoining the nun
nery qf Solidade, to accommodate a fam[\y
convenience. The father, a rich corisiderable
merchant, made public rejqicing on the oc-

143
casion. A ship belonging to him in the bay,
and others of his friends', were dressed in co
lours, and fired three several salutes in com
pliment. Adjoining the convent a fair Was
held, and bands of music played all day. , In
the evening a most magnificent display of fire-
Works commenced, the machinery of which
extended a length of three hundred yards :
they took up the space of two hours in ex
hibiting, without intermission ; they were of
the most superior kind, and closed the cele
bration of the day. This public rejoicing at
an act which perhaps dooms the poor victim
to certain misery during life, arid at all events
to perpetual seclusion from society, is but like
the practice of gilding a pill to palliate its
bitterness. I met some few Portuguese friends
that dare to think for themselves, who con
demned the ceremony in far severer terms
than I have myself expressed : concluding with
the distant hope of yet seeing some alteration
in a religion which encourages such sacrifices,
as well as in the government that countenances

•144
acts so contrary to the true policy and benefit
of a colony deficient of inhabitants.
21. — The heat and reflection from the fire
works, and sitting rather longer than usUal
with the friends who accompanied me to the
fort, have together brought on a slight ill
ness to-day. It is astonishing what minute
deviations affect the animal system in this
climate. 22. — For the last three days (preceding
Lent) a singular annual custom has been prac
tised among the inhabitants, of playing all sorts
of antic tricks to the passengers in the streets,
and with each other. Great numbers of appa
rently coloured eggs have been for some days
exposed to sale on the occasion, made of Mow
ed wax, filled with water and the end sealed :
these are thrown against you by the ladies ;
and on the slightest touch they break, and
give a momentary sprinkling. Powder is like
wise darted out of every window, false coin
nailed to the pavement, &c. &c.
This curious extravagance is called im-

145
tfudesf arid I imagine it another remnant, of
the carnival of the southern parts of Europe*
23.— ^-Lent has commenced with all its ac
customed' severity : I dined with captain Is-
bister, of an English brig now here ; who, at
least by the abundance of his table at this
holy season, is no Catholic.
24.—-Two inhabitants of Porto Seguro made
an enquiry this morning after our welfare. They
brought me the compliments of my acquaint-,
ance, and news of the country : this little atten
tion I found very gratifying from that quarter,
25.— Captain Isbister was ready for sailing
this morning; but was detained respecting
port charges, which he determined to resist
as peculiarly oppressive. It has long been
the practice to put six custom-house guards on
board of each British vessel, of whatever size or
description * ; and this at the payment of five
shillings and four pence each per diem, which
soon amounts to a considerable sum. After
* Except men-of-war. I

146
repeated applications to the governor and in
tendant of marine on the subject, and being
detained the greater part of a day, he pro
cured a third part of the sum to be reduced.
This will assuredly form a precedent, which
(it is to be hoped) all future visitors of the port
will adhere to for their own sake.
26.— Government is using every diligence
to render this colony more productive; not.
only in planting exotics, as already mention
ed, but also by opening their sait-petre mines,
perhaps the first in the world. This is no
new discovery ; having been first found in the
government of don Joao de Lancastro, in the
year 1695 : but the distance inland Avas then
deemed an insuperable objection to working
them ; and they have been entirely neglected
•since that period till Avithin the last three
years, Avhen it Avas determined to form roads
to the spot ; and an engineer was dispatched
'from Lisbon to conduct the undertaking.
These mines are distant sixty leagues to the
WSW. and the communication, it is expected,,

147
will be soon complete. The quality of the
salt-petre is said to be of the first kind ; and it
is found in substance. -
27, to March 2. — For many days there has
been an immense flight of white and yellow
butterflies. They never settle, and proceed
in a direction from the north-west to the south*
east. Neither the fort nor any other building
impedes them: they steadily pursue their
course ; which being to the ocean (at only- a
small distance), theymust consequently perish.
It is singular that at present no other kind
of these insects is to be seen, notwithstand
ing the country generally abounds in such a
variety. 3 to 7. — The trifling loss of some fowh?
which my servant found concealed in an out
house of the captain of the fort, and I could
not get restored, brought on a difference in
which the captain and family used the most
abusive and insulting language. As an only
means of redress, I requested the governor's
permission to take a house in the city, under
L2

14$
whatever regulations he pleased : but no an
swer was returnedj nor any notice taken of
my application.
I have been shown a petition to the prince
of Brasil, from the officers of the army, forts,
and public offices; requesting leave of his
highness to found a house and charity for the
reception of their widows and families, or for
giving assistance to them from the funds of
such house. To establish this, the petitioners
were ready severally to dedicate half of their'
pay for a twelvemonth, and prayed the re
mainder from the prince's beneficence. The
petition is to be immediately foi'Avarded ; and
they hope a favourable answer, having no in
stitution of this kind yet in existence.
8. — The portrait of a miser is ever the same,
except as difference of countries may some
what vary the shade.
I had an order to receive some cash this
morning from a Signor Antonio de Oliveira.
On entering his house, a thin half-starved pale-
visaged clerk sat writing on a wretched. table

149
in a dirty anti-chamber. He announced me
to some one in an inner room ; where, after
due caution, I was admitted : I found a man
weighing some gold sleeve-buttons, which a
poor creature at his side was probably selling
or paAvning. In a cross tone he told me to
Avait ; and pointed to a door, where I under
stood his principal was. I was shortly intro
duced to Signor Oliveira himself — an old man
covered with grey hair and Avrinkles, standing
selling some pieces of chintz to two female
customers, whom he cautiously watched as
they surveyed his goods. The room was large;
and was hung with old paintings of saints and
evangelists, nearly dropping from their frames
with the dust they sustained, as was a Jesus
which tottered on its cross. In a corner was
a shelf on which a silver-hilted hanger, a silver
bason, and other riches, had once shone, but
were now nearly obscured by dirt : a few an
tique chairs, an immense press, and a brpken
table, composed the rest of his furniture ; un
less indeed twenty trunks placed- around come,
under that description.

150
On the table a water-melon (cheap, ^cool
ing, sober diet !) lay cut, with a plate of fa
rinha. The old man seated me, but in a situ-
ation where I was in view as well as his cus
tomers; and requested my patience till he
had dispatched them : they were particular in
their purchase ; and to accommodate them he
had to open three or four truiikp, carefully re
placing the contents of each, and locking it
before opening another. Yrhen the females
withdrew, I produced my assignation; and
found the sum most accurately counted and
piled (being silver) on a stool behind him
covered with a cloth. On my informing the
old Senhor that I had been promised gold, he
carried part of the silver to the press" before
mentioned; on his opening which I was astor
nished at the quantity of bags that stood, ap^
parently full of coin, besides loose articles of
gold and silver separate and distinctly arrang
ed. He opened one bag and completed my
demand ; and I departed Math an impression
of wonder that a human being could spend
his life in accumulating wealth without any

, 151
view to apply it, and make his whole happi
ness consist in such practices of accumulation.
9- — 'Several vessels have arrived within these
last few days from Lisbon, which place they.
left early in February ; but they bring no in
formation relative to us. •o'pT
10. — It is remarkable what sums the esta-"
blished religion here requires iri alms from its
votaries, and how freely the requisition is
obeyed; Every day the holy brothers qf the
orders of St. Francis, Carmel, St. Theresa, Be
nedict, &c. knock at the doors or windows of
the inhabitants, rich or poor, and do not de
part without a tribute, or at least without
being sturdily importunate. Besides these
licensed pillagers, there is a legion of subor
dinate agents ; such as the friars of the Holy
Sepulchre, of Misericordia, the Capuchins, and
(worst of ail) the brothers of the Sanctissimo
Sacfetoent : which latter, with a short blue or
crimson silk cloak over their ordinary dress, a
silver staff in their hands, and a large velvet
pocket hearing an embossed silver plate, meet
• yot* at every turn ; arid, with an air of au-

152
tliority, demand an offering, which is rarely
refused them. I am now tolerably known as
an English heretic, and they therefore wave
their claim from me; it was, however, so
strongly enforced this morning, that I was
compelled to be very abrupt with the begging
son of the church, who, in return, gave me his
malediction most audibly.
11 to 15. — The city is well supplied Avith
fish, but this is dear. The season of Lent calls
forth the extra labour of the fisherman, and
it is wonderful to see the profusion now ex
hibited in the market ; yet the price continues,
and the demand is more than sufficient for the
consumption of the whole. — This bay pro.
duces great plenty of the scaly tribe, and in
immense variety : I have no-where seen them
of such beautiful colours : a small yellow and
black fish called soldiers, a large purple fish
of the carp species, a transparent white flat
fish, and some others I think non-descript ; or,
if known, they are so singular that I want a
work on Ichthyology to assist my memory.
Shell-fish are in abundance ; — oysters, mus-

153
tiles, &c. : turtle also, but not esteemed;
and these are destroyed merely for the shell :
they are chiefly of the hawksbill kind; and
slaves are employed to catch them on the
sandy beaches, but even these men refuse the
food which is with us so rare and costly. There
are several curious shells found in different
parts of the bay.
The insect Called in the West Indies chego&s
{but here bische) is very abundant here ; and
is painfully troublesome when it has onCe in
sinuated itself under the skin, and very dif
ficult to eradicate. A short time since one
larger than a pea was extracted from the sole
of my foot, but it broke during the operation*:
I imagine that part of its eggs were left be
hind ; as, for some days, I have had an itching
pain, with swelling gradually increasing, that
entirely confines me : but I expect, from the
appearance, that it will early rise to a head
sufficient for a second extraction.
16, to 17-— Dined with a friendi, who has
his saloon (the name with which they dignify

154
their best rooms) ornamented with* a set of
French engravings of their late victorious ge
nerals. It was remarkable with what en
thusiasm my Senhor recapitulated their ex
ploits, arid dwelt on their particular merits ;
deducing, perhaps, not the most liberal in*
ferences on the occasion. This partiality for
the new republicans and their principles, I
have long observed very general both here
and in other parts of Brasil, among the younger
branches of society; who have imbibed such
notions so effectually, that I should not wqnder
at this circumstance eventually causing a total
change in their political situation. They
already ridicule their subjection, and seem to
be conscious that they possess the most de
sirable country in the world, sufficient of itself
to supply all the wants of man.
18 to 24. — Waited on the governor with
captain Smith, to obtain him a passage in a
king's brig for Lisbon. The audience was
crowded, and we staid in the antichamber
some time for admittance* It appeared sin-

155
gular that several of the suitors were females 5
who were shewn the preference of entrance,
and, to judge by their countenaHces at their
return, had no cause to complain of their re
ception * ; — except an elderly woman (appa
rently poor and distressed), Avho repassed us
trembling, and unable to restrain the bursting
tear. His excellency granted our request, but
had no news whatever for me. ,
Our attendauce was not simply confined to
addressing the governor; for the greatest part
of a day was lost in applications at the palace,
secretary's office for passports, &c. While
sitting with the aide-de-camp in waiting, I
observed that he committed several to prison
for petty offences, and acted in these instances
as majesterially as the governor hiriiself could
have done.
A deserter was brought in, and instantly
ordered to confinement for a court-martial ;
when the aide-de-camp assured me, he would
inevitably be doomed to work in irons for six
* I find the above mode of application by no means novel
in Bra&il^ and, at times, peculiarly successful.

156
years; that three days' desertion Vere sufficient
to incur this punishment ; but the culprit just
committed, had been absent, from his regiment
three years, in which time he had settled at
Sergippe with his family, and lived in every
comfort- — being now caught on board his own
launch in coming to purchase necessaries from
the city. This affecting domestic picture, I
observed, ought to soften his sentence; Avhich
the aide-de-camp declared, on the contrary,
would aggravate his crime : but while speak
ing, hearing a noise in the square, I looked
out- — and found the poor deserter had giA-en
his attendants the slip, taken to his heels, and
seemed, by his uncommon speed, to bid de
fiance to all pursuit.
Captain Smith sailed for Lisbon. I saw him
on board, and parted with regret; having-
found him an honest and inoffensive cha
racter, and his residence having enlivened the
period which was now proportionably clouded
by the idea that we are again alone, and have
no point t© which to look for our departure,
I purchased captajn Smith's right to the

157
wreck; and sent my late mate, William Barker,
to examine it.
25.— -The Annunciation of the Virgin; a
grand feast here : but I am so tired with the
insipid repetition and sameness of their chUrch
ceremonies, that I did not stir from the fort.
26. — -Had a trifling order on the royal bank
or treasury, which I tendered for payment j
and though only about sixteen pounds, was
put off till a future day. I remonstrated with
some surprise on the occasion ; but was in- '
formed that there would absolutely be no cash
in the bank till the following week. I find
this is by no means singular : for as soori as
money is received, a public: day is appointed
for its issue; when the whole is generally ex
pended, and many creditors frequently remain
who must await another turn.
27 to 30. — We passed the day with a mar
ried friend and party, whose urbanity and po~
iiteness forms a contrast to most of his country
men. His house is situated at the head of
the bay, and possesses every convenience.

158
Our dinner was composed of all that Bahia
affords, although in Lent : after coffee, cards
were introduced ; we thus spent a most agree
able day.
My mate William returned from the wreck.;
_ but with so unsatisfactory an account, that I
determined to investigate it myself if possible,
and applied to the governor for ten days' ab
sence : this he unexpectedly granted, as well
as -a passport from the secretary's office. I
immediately engaged a country launch (or
barge) with three triangular sails, particu
larly constructed for 'sailing.
31.— By day-break got under sail; and,
after a fine run of ten hours, arrived at the
morro of St. Paul's. This I had before seen
only at a great distance, as apparently a high
bluff rugged hill ; but when near, it is found
covered with beautiful verdure, and on its ex
treme point stands a neglected fortification. .
Passing this, the land forms a small deep bay;
the water of which is transparent, and as placid
as a mill-pond.

159
' On landing, another fort presents itself, in
tolerable order, and garrisoned with a hun
dred and fifty soldiers. Near it stands a mi
serable town of clay huts, the site of which is
delightful on the side of the hill.
This place is the capital of the presidio of
the island of St. Paul's, and has a governor,
who commands also several small towns (op
rather villages) adjoining. We were compel
led to touch here, from the wind being so scant
that we could not pass the outside of- the is
land, but were obliged to take another route
through an inland sea which the country
forms, but where no vessels are allowed to sail
without declaring at the morro their destina
tion and business.
Our stay was momentary ; and on our way
to the passage just mentioned, we coasted the
bold shore of the island, which strikingly re
sembles St. Helena, having the same deep in
dented valleys, and in fancy I pictured James
town, Munden's fort, &c. &c. but here nature
is far more softened, verdant, and picturesque.

160)
Night overtook us after we entered the nar-*
rows, where -the sea is contracted to the di
mension of a river, and our launch niestre re*
fusing to proceed in the dark, we anchored.
After eating some fowl prepared on board,
and taking a cheerful glass of diluted spirit, I
lay down, wrapped in my cloak, on the raised
part of the vessel's stern, under cover of a small
cocoa thatched hovel, forming their cabins.
The night being particularly serene, I thought
it sufficiently comfortable for this climate ; but
before, midnight these pleasing ideas vanished,
. and I was awaked Avith a sudden hurricane.
The rain began to fall in torrents, so that our
poor shed was soon penetrated, and we were
thoroughly drenched till morning.
April 1. — A kind hour of warm sun put
us someAvhat to rights, and I began to lose all
remembrance of the night while surveying this
charming navigation ; sometimes two or three
miles wide, at others not a quarter of a mile,
and to the extreme of the water's edge an
endless range of evergreen mangroves. The

161
numberless points and openings formed by the
land, the huts and villas on the banks, and
the small canoes with their latten sails gliding
in every direction, made the whole scene most
•delightful. In the everiing we arrived at the
Sown of St. Anthony de Boypeba, on the rocks
adjoining to which the brig had been wrecked.
2. — Surely this place has. some fatality an
nexed to it at this period. On my arrival I
heard that an unfortunate Spanish vessel was
lost a few nights ago near the same spot as
the brig, bound to Bahia and Europe, from
Buenos Ayres, with a most valuable cargo of
hides, cocoa, cascaril la, copper, &c. : the loss
was so sudden and complete, that the crew had
merely time to save themselves and chests, and
1 found them here in a truly deplorable con
dition; particularly a gentleman owner of
nearly the whole property, who by this acci
dent is entirely ruined.
The English brig was wrecked on a reef of
rocks called the Morrera, adjoining the bar of
M

162
Boypeba; the Spanish vessel, on the Point des
Castellianos *, three leagues more to the south
ward. This last' is a fatal .place to navigators,
as covered rocks extend a considerable distance
from the point : and no vessels ought to near
the coast here within half a degree, as all our
charts are very defective to the south of Bahia.
I have seen some valuable manuscript Ppr-
tuguese charts ; the best English is a small one
published by Laurie and Whittle, Fleet-street.
Captain Smith's late brig I found completely
ruined, although entire, and my expectations
of getting the vessel off quite disappointed;
•so that my trip is fruitless, except in the plea^
sure which it has afforded me of viewing this
iine part of Brasil.
3. — Palm Sunday: which, as the com
mencement of holy-week, is particularly re
verenced ; and, although in a country churchy
high mass was celebrated with music, &c.
after which a priest presented each of the in-
* Spaniards' point.

163
habitants with the white stalk of a cocoa palm
about two feet in length, entwined with tinsel,
and ornamented with bunches of coloured
paper. This gift (having been previously con
secrated) they guard with pious care, and they
assured me that it was an infallible preventive
against danger from thunder-storms ; on the
appearance of which, if severe, they burn the
holy palm with proper faith — and are thus
made undoubtedly secure.
4. — Made a few trips on board the wreck,
and brought away some trifles of little or no
value. Returning' quite exhausted, and with
the addition of a cold caught the first night of
my excursion; I feel myself seriously ill, and
mean to hasten my return- to-morrow in con
sequence. 5. — As I had appointed the launch to sail
"tyith high-water early in the morning, the pilot
called me at half past four for the purpose;
but when he arrived on board, he refused to
get under weigh, saying there was a deficiency
of Avater to pass the bar. My illness had in-
m 2

154
creased during the night ; and as I knew that
if I continued^ and should find myself unable
to remove from Boypeba, that place afforded
no assistance to relieve me, this refusal of the
signor mestre quite exasperated : but intreaties
and threats were equally vain to alter his re
solution, and I determined to proceed in the
canoe that now brought me from the shore,
it being a very large one. The bargain was
soon made for six milreas (I I. 13s. 9d. ster
ling) ; and after ordering- some jerk beef, bis
cuit, and water, I took my servant, and, with
the tAvo mulattoes of the canoe, proceeded to
sea. We had a fine run to the morro, which
Ave passed after four hours' sail ; but the wind
failing, Ave could not proceed directly for Bahia,
and were obliged to take a circuitous route by
the inside of the island Itaporica, through a
navigation similar to that lately described *»
If the former had struck me as pleasingly ro
mantic, this far exceeded it ; the land on each
* In thejournal of March 31. •

165
side being more broken into valleys, a con
tinued succession of hill and dale, with an in
finitude of open and -cultivated spots, enlivened
by endless cottages on the shore, and seats
and plantations on the higher grounds. We
passed San Tomar, a most beautiful village, in
the afternoon ; where I purchased farinha for
our first meal : my people having neglected
to put more than two biscuits into the canoe.
Leaving the shore, Ave made a fire on a piece
of hard wood ranged across the canoe for the
purpose, and began to cook our humble re
past, as I would not lose the present fine wind
by eating at the village. We had an earthen
pot belonging to the mulattoes; but on muster
ing bur other necessaries, so improvident had
I been, that we found only one knife, and a
divided calabash used for scooping water out
©f the canoe, which latter we were obliged to
use in turn both to eat and drink out of. Not
withstanding this poor accommodation, and
still worse fare of dried tasteless beef, &c.
hunger sweetened the morsel, and I remained
well satisfied.

166
By evening we arrived at the town of the
island bearing the same name; in passing
which we had to run across the bay about
twenty miles to Bahia. The wind bleAv fresh
from the eastward, which was not very favour
able; and the old master of the canoe was
against attempting any further, but wished to
anchor and await the land breeze of the morn
ing. I persuaded him, however, to go for
ward, but had proceeded only a small distance,
when a heavy sea nearly upset the canoe, and
thus forced us to return to Itaporioa. I went
on shore to purchase some fish for supper;
and passed through the town, which was more
considerable and populous than I expected,
having a brisk trade, whale fisheries, distil
leries, &c. and likewise the general mart b-i
the island, and rendezvous of all the launches
passing through the many inlets and creeks of
this part of the bay.
A strong fort commands the point on which
the town is situated; near Avhich are tAvo
churches, one of them now rebuilding on a
grand scale, The warehouses, wharfs, &c.

167
were large and convenient ; and some hquse|
of individuals very neat, but intermingled with
the miserable huts of others which so abound
in all the towns and cities here.
I found no accommodation on' shore ; and
after supper, in spite of my bad cold, had no
alternative but to lie on the wet bottom of the
canoe. I slept some little even in this situa
tion, when a squall of wind with rain surprised
us, so heavy that I left the canoe, and took
shelter under a wharf shed. Here, however,
I had scarce continued a minute before I was
covered with sand-flies, whose penetrating
bite drove me again into the open air, prefer
ring, of the two evils, the rage of the elements.
A calm succeeded about midnight, and I
persuaded my canoemen to take advantage of
it with their paddles. We accordingly coasted
the shore of the island towards the city, but it
was with difficulty that I could get them to
push across, eyen in the present calm state of
the bay. We had proceeded about half way,
when another squall blew so severe that our

168
fragile vessel was really in danger, and no ex
pedient remained but to drop a large suspend
ed stone (i. e. our only anchor), and await its
abating. It Avas too heavy to continue, and a
small breeze followed, of which we took advan
tage ; yet it was not without great exertions'bf
the paddles during the rest of the night, that
by eight in the morning we arrived at Bahia.
6 to 8. — Rested after my fatigue. I find
that during my absence vessels haA7e arrived
from Lisbon, but with no information relative
to our affair.
9. — In my walk to the city a considerable
crowd occupied the street, and I was obliged
to stop till the occasion was over. This proved
to be the destruction of poor Judas in effigy :
when, not content with all the anathemas this
day thundered against him, and the eternal
torment to which he is consigned, the popu
lace in different parts of the city dress up a
masked figure, and erect a gibbet on which
they exalt him — as do the shipping also from
their yard-arms. At eleven in the morn-

169
ing they discharge musquets at the traitor j
and set fire to rockets fastened at his back,
and crackers, concealed in his dress.
In the exhibition which I witnessed, the
rage of the good Catholics Avas not satisfied
-_ with hanging and blowing up poor Judas 5
but they afterwards lowered his remains, and
dragged them in triumph through the street.
While the fury of the Brasilian mobs can be
thus innocently directed, it is a happy circum
stance for their government.
10. — Easter Sunday. A general brightness
is in every look of the good people here ; pro
bably created by the end of gloomy Lent, and
the prospect of once again eating meat, great
quantities of which are provided for the day.
If our English epicures were thus destined
to a forty-days abstinence, and kept it as truly
as most do in Brasil ; what a memorable epoch
'would this holiday then form in Britain J
1 1 — Calling on my friend Ferrara, I learnt
that I had missed some curious processions
in the last week; particularly those of thepe-

i7o
netentiary disciplinants, which were riot only
on account of the holy week, but also to
accelerate rain, which is unusually late this
season. Several mulattoes and negroes were
the devotees, who scourged their naked backs
without mercy, leaving severe and sangui
neous marks of their enthusiastic ardour.
They were attended by trains of friars, bro
thers of the sacrament, and priests, chant
ing anthems and bearing tapers. The infa
tuated voluntary sufferers were consoled with
absolution, remission of all past sins, and in
dulgence for some future ones; a pecuniary
gratification of two pounds* each was also
given to the mulattoes, and one to the negroes.
At the same time, to prevent the failure of
the sky's watery influence, a holy legate was
deputed and sanctified by the archbishop and
whole body of his college, to proceed to a
particular hermitage adjoining the city, and
breathe up his pious intercessions ; receiving
* Ten patacksa. •

171
visitors, with their offerings on the occasion,
and presenting his sacred foot for each to
salute. These presents were considerable ;
which, with such a concentrated force of pe
nitence and piety, could not fail of effect ;
and the rain has accordingly been immense
during some days. In fact, an approaching
alteration of the weather was visible to any
observer, for a week antecedent to this ce
remony, from a haziness in the air, heavy
clouds, &c. : but here nothing is much esteem
ed, or thankfully accepted, that is natural ; all
must proceed from' miracles.
12. — I was caught on the beach in the se
verest fall of rain I ever witnessed. While
standing under a shed to avoid its violence, I
all at once observed the air full of a small
flying insect, which the people near me called
Asian ants *. This is the moment they use
for multiplying their species, after, which they
drop; when their transparent wings sticking
to the moist earth, they make a violent effort
* Vermigues-de-Asia,

172
arid leave them. The insect then appears as
a small maggot, which immediately divides,
and each part seeking the porous earth soon
disappears : the larger ones always leave their
wings ; while some smaller, after separation,
regain the air. On my arrival at the fort, I
heard they had there also swarmed in myriads,
as just observed.
13. — The large ant already noticed, is also
in a state of chrysalis at this season. It is far
increased in size during this change ; and
after continuing some time in the air, returns
to the earth, shedding its wings as those which
I saw yesterday : while some, unable to effect
that change, lie motionless, and soon expire.
A nest which I passed of these insects was
opened, with some hundreds of the winged
ones (which I imagine females) taking flight
from the mouth of it; while myriads of young
ones continued uninterrupted at work.
14 to 18. — Last night another ridiculous
quarrel took place with the people of the fort,
in which my fate mate was concerned ; and

173
in consequence the captain with his swordj a
soldier with his bayonet, and several servants
with sticks, went into the casemate where Wil
liam sleeps, and ordered him to remove into
a dungeon for the night. William refused,
jumped up, and seized a rusty musquet left
by captain Smith (which they supposed load
ed) : this frightened the whole corps of war
riors to such a degree, that they instantly re
tired, permitting him to continue unmolested.
Feeling these disputes very unpleasant, I
presented a memorial to the governor again
on the subject ; who, in answer, gave me the
liberty of removing to any other of the forts,
and permission to visit them all, for, the pur
pose of determining on my choice. •
The rainy season is now confirmed ; it fall-'
ing in torrents, and affording few intervals for
continuing my accustomed exercise.
19 to 21. — During this month our allow
ance from government has been discontinued,
though hitherto paid regularly ever since our
arrival in Bahia. The cashier of the dock-yard

•174
assigns for reason, that there actually is no
cash in the treasury, and I must have patience
till the first of May.
In consequence of my permission, have
visited several other forts; but find the ac
commodation inferior to what I now possess,
and therefore purpose continuing for the pre
sent : — the more so too, as I have met no
more insults from the inhabitants since the
14th; on which occasion I imagine the cap
tain to have received a reprimand. Should
any new disagreement arise, I mean to re
move to the Fort do Mar ; as I consider the
captain there far more humanized than any
of his brethren.
22 to 28. — On my return from Boypeba, I
brought intelligence of the wrecked Spanish
brig, which from me was carried to the go
vernor, who had been as well as the city in
general hitherto a stranger to such loss. He
immediately sent, for further information, to
St. Paul's ; the governor of Avhich island an
swered that no such accident had happened

175
®n the coast, or to any ship except the English
one. In consequence of this, my report was
considered false ; but to-day the owner, cap
tain, and people, came here in launches, with
some few articles saved, and first confirmed my
account. The wreCk took place on the 23d of
March last ; at a distance from Bahia of only
about sixty miles, and from the morro of St.
Paul's twenty, and in a situation where small
vessels are constantly passing : — such are the
intelligence, communication, and the curiosity
of the Brasilians !
The freemasons of Bahia ventured beyond
their usual caution, in meeting in full assembly
at the cathedral to pay the last duties of huma
nity at the interment of a brother, a late cap
tain in the navy, who fell a victim -in the
prime of manhood to that distressing malady
a consumption ; which is as fatal in its attacks
here as in Europe* The body was placed on
a bier ; and surrounded by friends of the de
ceased, eacji bearing a very large candle. One

176
of them unlocked the coffin* ; and, -opening
its sides, displayed the corpse dressed in the
naval uniform, with a black crape over the
face. A priest, at the foot of the coffin, read
the service, sprinkling holy water on the body
at intervals ; after which the coffin was closed,
and deposited in a grave adjoining.
29, to May 1. — The streets and squares of
the city are thronged with groups of human
beings, exposed for sale at the doors of the
different merchants to whom they belong;
five slave ships having arrived within the last
three days. From the unusual quantity at
this time imported, with the many already in
the colony, one would conceive the public
tranquillity to be somewhat endangered, on a
recollection of the late events in St. Domingo.
But it is far otherwise : for, indulged to licen-
* The coffins in Brasil are separated in the centre of the
sides and down the lid : the sides have hinges, and opfen
each way ; and on the lid there is a lock. They are usu
ally covered with black cloth, and ornamented with broad
gold lace.

177
tiousness, not over-worked, and enjoying their
native vegetable food, the negroes are cheer
ful and content. True policy is the spring of
this apparent humanity in the Portuguese
Colonists ; but they had received a terrible
lesson before adopting this line of conduct,
which I shall digress so far as to relate.
About a century ago *, at the conclusion
of the contest with the Dutch, the slaves in
the neighbourhood of Pernambucco (now in
ured to hardships and warfare, . and inflamed
with the sentiments of liberty which the Hol
landers had diffused around them) determined
to seek, in the woods and plains of the back
country, the freedom Which they so ardent
ly desired. Forty of them put this resolu
tion into effect; and, after purloining arms
and what other weapons they could conve
niently secrete, fled from their masters, and
retired to a chosen situation in about nine
degrees south, near Porto do Calvo, and ad-
* See " America Portugueza," Livro oitavo, &c.
N

joining the rich cultivated country of Alagoas
and Pernambucco. Here they were joined
by considerable numbers of mulattoes, and
other negroes. Part of them founded a town;
Avhile others dispersed to the most fertile spots
around, and began the business of cultivation.
They soon, however, felt the want of the
softer sex ; and motives of policy for the con
tinuation of their independence, with natural
desires, determined them to supply their want
by force, from the surrounding plantations.
Not the Sabine rape was more general or com
plete : through an extensive tract of country
they took every female of colour; and, not
confining themselves to this depredation (per
haps irritated by resistance), they violated the
daughters and wives of the planters, carried
away the most valuable effects, and retired to
their town of Palmares *.
The taste of plunder thus excited, soon de
manded still further gratification ; and during
* Sp called from the number of cocoa-palms which the
negroes had planted there.

179
their separate existence they constantly in
dulged it, and were in a short time too for
midable to be resisted. Several considerable
Portuguese of the adjacent parts now solicit
ed their friendship, by private supplies of pow
der, ball, musquets, and European manufac
tures ; receiving in return assurances of pro
tection, and part of the gold, silver, and specie,
Avhich the negroes had taken from others. % A
short time consolidated them into a nation :
they adopted a personal designation from the
name of their town, the Palmarese; and, find
ing the incessant confusion which attends
a body of peOple without regulations, they
formed a political constitution, beginning by
choosing a prince, whom they saluted with
the name of Zombi * (or Powerful) : this
dignity was. to last for life only: continuing
elective ; from among the most experienced,
* This name was to descend to their rulers inperpetuum.
The author here followed calls the whole a rustic republic}
and applies the name as he would that of chief-magistrate,
ovjirst-consul.
N 2

180
brave, and prudent, of the nation. They next
selected magistrates, made laws, and institut
ed a militia, of all capable of bearing arms.
Religion was not forgotten: they adopted the
Christian; but, says my author, most bar
barously mutilated, and wanting the sacra
ment of the priesthood, their costume, and
other ceremonies of the Catholic church — to
the eternal perdition of their souls.
During this progressive improvement the
population was immense, and the cultivation
of the interior kept an equal pace ; but, fear
ing the final irruption of the Portuguese, they
chose for each village a commanding situa
tion, and rudely fortified it. Palmares Avas,
by this time, near a league in circumference ;
and was surrounded Avith a double staccade of
immense timbers, taken from the ponderous
trunks of the largest trees in the surrounding
woods : these they squared, and piled to a
considerable height, forming in parts a regular
bulwark ; with (for entrances) three extensive

181
ports of the same wood, having platforms over
each. These entrances were each guarded,
in times of peace, by two hundred soldiers
and a chief of approved valour.
Within the -walls the dwellings were dis
persed and irregular, a great portion of ground
being reserved for cultivation. The inha
bitants were supplied with water from a lake
in which were fish, and rivulets spread in va
rious directions. In the centre of the town
was a singular mount; one of its sides rising
perpendicularly, and so high that it command
ed a view of thesurrounding country. The
palace of the prince was extensive ; the houses
of some individuals were (in their style) magni
ficent ; and the whole population amounted to
full twenty thousand souls. In short, the
prosperity of the nation had risen to such a
pitch, they were so powerful, their depre
dations so extensive, and their vengeance
(when excited) so destructive, as to alarm
the country in general, and seem finally to
threaten the existence of the European co-

182
lony. Government were seriously anxious,
and bent their entire attention, to reduce the
Palmarese; who at this time (A.D, 1696) had
continued sixty years unmolested, and saAv
their third generation, Ceatano Mello, go
vernor of Pernambucco, accordingly sent a
plan for this purpose to don John de Lan-
castro, captain-general * and governor of
Bahia; who, for its execution, immediately
dispatched a thousand troops to join the
forces of Pernambucco. The latter alone
amounted to three thousand men ; besides
a body of Indians, armed domestics, and vo
lunteers : the whole thus forming an army
of six thousand ; supplied with every neces
sary for offensive Avar, except artillery.
The Palmarese, on being informed of the
intended invasion, had collected all their small
resources, called in their militia and the in
habitants of the villages, desolated the sur
rounding country, and thrown every hinder-
* The usual title of the governors of Bahia.

183
ance to the march of the hostile troops. The
Portuguese, however, soon arrived; but, as
they viewed the staccaded walls of the town,
Were struck with astonishment, not unmixed
with dismay, at the appearance of the soldiers
stationed on the bulwarks, and the firm pre
parations which they beheld in every part for
a vigorous resistance.
While this was passing, and the army was
yet unformed, the prince Zombi, with a strong
detachment, made a rapid sally ; and brought
on a partial engagement which ended with
considerable loss to the invaders.
The place was now formally invested ; and
various attempts were made to cut an entrance
by heavy hatchets, but without effect : while
storming parties vvith scaling ladders were
equally unsuccessful, meeting the most de
structive fire from the besieged. Unfor
tunately, the Palmarese were deficient of pow^.
der : but this did not abate their constancy ;
and they yet resisted with the remainder of
their ammunition. At the, same time also

184
they threw darts, immense stones, and scald
ing water, during the different assaults ; thus
killing and wounding such numbers, that the
Portuguese began to slacken their ardour.
Added to this, the want of necessaries and re
freshments occasioned a general murmur in
the besieging army ; and they plainly saw that
their expedition must prove abortive, without
the assistance of fresh troops, artillery, and
provisions. A courier was instantly dispatch
ed to the governor of Pernambucco, request
ing these supplies ; which were with difficulty
forwarded. In the mean time the Palmarese
were in hopes, from the discontinuance of at
tacks, that the enemy were on the point of
retiring : and this expectation alone kept up
their spirits ;¦ for not only their powder was
entirely exhausted, but they began to feel all
the horrors of famine,— ^increased from the
numbers that had retired into the town.
They endured these evils with great reso
lution : the townsmen in daily expectation of
yet enjoying their liberty ; and their country

185
friends, of returning to their villages and their
rural happiness. But these hopes were too
delusive : for the detachment arrived with ar
tillery, &c. for the besiegers. From the emi
nence in the centre of the town, the Palma
rese saw these supplies approaching in each
direction; and when they viewed the heavy,
guns and fresh troops, then, and then only,
their spirits sunk, and they foresaw the fate to
which they were doomed. ,
A general storm took place ; and the resist
ance of the inhabitants was weak, from their
feeling that it must be ineffectual. A port
was forced, and the troops entered : the shock
was violent but momentary, and the Palma
rese gave way. Prince Zombi, with nearly
the whole of his remaining comrades in arms,
predetermined not to outlive their freedom :
they retired to the mount, and, self-devoted,
precipitated themselves down its steep rocky
side, finding liberty in death.
The Portuguese were disappointed of their
vengeance, but the object was attained : the

186
trophies of conquest consisted in the wounded,
©Id men, women, and children ; with the gold,
silver, &c. The army retired to Pernam
bucco : where the captives were sold ; except
a few men and the wounded warriors, who,
when cured, were immediately transported to
Bahia, Rio Janeiro, and other distant parts of
the coast, for sale. By these means the vic
tors succeeded in effectually dispersing them,
to prevent any future junction of men ani
mated with sentiments so hateful and danger
ous to a despotic government.
May 2. — Attended the treasury of the
dock-yard, and had my payments punctually
resumed. 3 to 7- — The miserable gloomy weather
yet continues; the wind blowing hard at south
west, and with torrents of rain : yet such is
the general temperature, that in the house
with the window or door open we feel no chill
as in Europe, and in walking perspiration
directly ensues.
8. — Rogation Sunday: on which occasion

187
the captain of the fort had visitors, and held
(What they call) a banquet : and the term was
not improperly used, for before the conclusion
of the feast it was celebrated with orgies truly
bacchanalian. The ladv, of Barbalho, her
daughter, and female visitors, joined in pro
cession around the inside square of the fortj
the mother carrying a large case-bottle (ap
parently of wine), and her followers with
glasses in each hand : they entered the small
tenements as they passed, chanting a formal
chorus, attended with emphatic flourishes of
the glasses and bottle.
These momentary visits soon dispatched the
wine : after which they began the inspiring
Brasilian negro * dance, enjoying it with high
goiit ; till the captain, blushing I believe for
such a flagrant violation of all decency, inter
rupted their happiness. Whether this is a ce
remony annexed to the day, or an effusion now
inspired by excess, I have yet to learn.
* See the description of Bahia.

9 and 10, — The weather at sea , being so
severe, and the wind setting into the bay, has
rolled in the highest tide known here for some
years, attended with a heavy swell, occasion
ing a considerable damage, and still more
alarm. Several vessels parted their cables and
drove aboard each other : the lower parts of
the houses situated on the wharfs were float
ing; and their entrances choaked With the
stones, sand, and rubbish, cast up by the sea.
The waves too, striking on the shore, threw up
sprays (or rather sheets of water) higher than
the houses ; breaking the balconies in front,
the windows, &c.
1 1 to 18.' — I have seen a letter bringing the
disagreeable intelligence, that captain Isbis-
ter*s brig (which Avas here in February) is seiz
ed by the government of Rio Janeiro, and
since confiscated, on what pretext I have not
been able to learn.
Captain Velozo of Fort do Mar presented
us with a basket of beautiful grapes, the second
produce of his vines this year ; for about the

189
10th of January I had a similar gift, in quite
as high perfection. Captain Velozo informs
me, that they are ripe again the end of Sep
tember, thus forming three annual bearings :
but the last is Aveak compared with the former
ones, wanting the fervent heat of a vertical
sun to meliorate and enrich their vegetation ;
besides, this last bearing forces nature too far,
and injures the vines. This luxuriant rich
ness of the earth, one would imagine, ought
to stimulate the inhabitants to the culture of
this fruit, and add wine to the number of
good things which America produces: but
my informant tells me the heat is so poignant
as to prevent the grape from properly ferment
ing ; and the juice has been only wasted, in
the repeated attempts of this kind that have
been made. However, from what I have seen
of the climate, I think this impediment might
be artificially obviated, were not industry
wanting: but this last deficiency even self-
interest cannot supply; otherwise the fruit
would be cultivated for sale as a refreshment,

190
thus banishing the present scarcity; as at this
moment none are to be procured except from
the gardens of the curious.
19. — Took advantage of to-day's fine wea
ther, to make an excursion in a boat which I
have lately purchased, accompanied by my
spouse. We ranged along the peninsula of
Montserrat ; and, passing its point, arrived on
the other side at the church of Boa Fim, a
miraculous shrine dedicated to the Virgin.
The building was neat, and crowded with
small pictures; acknowledging benefits from
its patroness, similar to what I have noticed at
Nossa Senhora de Ajuda, near Porto Seguro.
In front %f the church is a large paA^ed court,
surrounded with a wall, and brick seats : the
prospect from whence is grand indeed, over a
gradual descent of plantations to the bay
(which it entirely commands), and to a di
stance into the adjacent ocean, with the ship
ping in front, the city on the left, and the isle
of Itaporica on the right. The situation is so
select, and air so salubrious, that it is the re-

191
sort of most parties, at all festivals ; being sur
rounded with country-seats where theowners
receive their friends, while strangers are ac
commodated from several cams de liqueur in
the neighbourhood. A broad convenient road
leads to the beach, and from thence to the city ;
along which the walkse em ed so pleasant, and
the evening was so fine, that we preferred this
to returning in the boat. We had indeed rea
son afterwards to congratulate ourselves on the
choice ; particularly Avhen we arrived on the
beach ; between which and the city we passed
a neglected church and monastery of the Je
suits, in a situation (I think) not to be equalled.
This is in the centre of the amphitheatre
which the peninsula naturally forms ; and the
two arms of the semicircle regularly spread
ing, exclude each rude object, and form a
finished picture. A green slopes to a Availed
terrace, Avhich prevents the incursion of the
sea. Sitting on a bench adjoining, I con
templated the church fast sinking into ruin ;
with trees and shrubs jutting out of the ere-

192
Vices, arid marking the neglect : to the right
a steep hill rose to the upper country, iri rich
verdure ; in turning from this, the city ranged
With the vessels beneath gaily dressed to con
gratulate the day*; while the sun's softened
rays gilded the whole, as it sunk beyond the
hills of Itaporica. The church bears date
only A.D. 1753, and was scarcely finished
when the society was dissolved.
In my opinion, the building, for regularity
of finishing, excels any in Bahia ; and, with
the situation, marks the superior taste and
discrimination which these fathers certainly
possessed above any of their contemporaries, i
Leaving the church of the Jesuits, we slowly
ascended the hill, and entered the dark port
of Barbalho as the city bells announced Ave-
Mariaf. * Ascension-day.
f After sun-set each evening the bells of the churches in
Catholic countries slowly toll several times, for all Christ
ians to repeat their Ave-Maria (or prayer to the Virgin) ,
and to return thanks for the benefits of the day. This \s
so universal, that at the sound of the bell, all passengers
stop, uncover their heads, and comply with the ceremony.

193
20 to 31. — On a visit to the Fort do Mar,
I was astonished at theforce of the late heavy
weather. The sea penetrated to the upper
battery, and has displaced some stones of the
lower part of the building, although of a con
siderable magnitude.
A vessel arrived from Lisbon, after an in
terval of six weeks. I waited on the governor —
who had no intelligence respecting us — and
expatiated on the peculiar hardships of our
situation, requesting leave of absence for three
months. This his excellency flatly denied. I
then begged to be sent to Lisbon, which he
declared equally impossible ; and I left him,
nearly in despair.
June 1 to 8. — Passing the city, I was struck
with seeing Senr. Vincent, the villain who de
frauded me of the hundred milreas, in the Fort
do Mar. I instantly addressed him ; when he
pretended no knowledge of me or my lan
guage. Being vexed at lus duplicity, I dis
patched my servant (who chanced to be with
me) to bring a guard; before the arrival of

194
which I Avas compelled to exert myself
to prevent his escaping. On his finding
this impossible, he changed his note, drop
ped the Portuguese language, and learned
English in a moment ; declaring, that the
money was long since spent, and offering me
a new quadrant which he had brought from
Lisbon (he having made a voyage since he
saw me) as the only compensation in his
power. Knowing, by sad experience, what
justice is in this country, I accepted his offer,
and released him : the more readily, as I had
.chastised him roughly in his attempt to run
away. 9- — The feast of Corpus Christi, which was
attended by all the troops of the city, except,
those on guard ; the governor, senate, judges
of the relaeao, members of the inquisition
(with banner), &c. &c. together with the whole
corps of regular and monastic clergy. An
image of St. George * on horseback was very
* The tutelar saint of Portugal, as well as of England.

195
conspicuous in the procession, habited in a
rich knight's-dress, with two men on each side
to hold it on the animal. The saint nodded his
plumes most majestically ; and appeared the
more ridiculous from being preceded by a
living squire, and followed by a boy as page,
both mounted also. I thought the dragon
alone was wanted, to complete the Hudibras*
tic cavalcade.
10 to 12. — -Among the various objects of
the city, I encountered a most formidable
press-gang, on their errand to procure sailors
for the seventy-four lately built here. They
do not use sailors to press, as with us : but
about fifty soldiers, with their side-arms, were
employed; and executed their business with
all the brutality which such an infringement
on the rights of humanity requires, by what
ever nation it is adopted. — A poor seaman
particularly excited my attention. The sur
prise of capture threvv him into convulsions as
he was conducting through the street. He
lay in extreme agony beating his head against
o2

196
the stones, while the soldier who had him in
charge stood over him with the coolest indif
ference, awaiting his recovery ; and, what I
thought equally cruel, the collected crowd
offered no assistance^ but, with a shrug,
looked, and passed on.
r 13 to 20.— Another grand festival j of St;
i
Antonio : the saint most favoured by this na
tion of any in the calendar, he having been a
native of Lisbon.
The rainy season has brought with it a most
tormenting insect ; which abounds in the
neighbourhood of Barbalho, particularly dur
ing the gleams of sunshine, or the fine days
that intervene. It is small as a point, or one of
our mites ; and moves with great quickness.
These mischievous insects attach themselves
to one's linen, and cover it in a moment ;
afterwards insinuating themselves into the
skin, and occasioning a most intolerable itch
ing. They are with difficulty extracted ; and
leave behind them a large livid pimple, Avhich
is a day or two in subsiding. I imagine the

197
insect to be similar to what is called the doctor
on the Musquito shore, and around the bay of
Honduras ; which is equally tormenting to the
wood-cutter and the settlers.
21 -and 22. — The Emperador, a Lisbon
trader, came in ; with government dispatches;,
a new intendant of marine, and prqvedore of
custom-house. These several changes .seemed
to " promise news for me, and I searched the
secretary's office, where I was still informed
that no intelligence had been received, and
thus my eager hopes were at once dissipated!
Also paid my accustomed visit to the post-
house, but found no letters ; which confirms
my suspicion thatf" some have certainly been
" intercepted, as otherwise I must have had an
swers to the numerous epistles which I have
dispatched. 23, to July 3. 7^ While at breakfast, the cap
tain of the fort came, with an order from the
governor for him to receive another prisoner
in the apartment which we occupy, and at
the same time warn us for removal to another

198
place of confinement This novelty excited
our curiosity to the extreme ; and we awaited
the event with an anxiety not unmixed with
apprehension. Mid-day passed, and no one appeared. The
captain, tired with waiting, went into the city
on his own business ; and he was scarce gone
when the minister Claudio (my inveterate ad
versary) came, accompanied with the governor
of Porto Seguro and his son Gaspar.
They were shewn to the apartments of the
captain; and messengers were dispatched,
who, after full two hours' search, returned with
out meeting with him. Claudio then declared
his patience exhausted, and that he could do
nothing without the captain ; and went away
in high dudgeon, after exchanging Avith me the
formal compliment of the day. The poor cap
tain was instantly arrested; but, after great
intercession, escaped with three hours' con
finement. On his return I learnt that the intended
prisoner was the governor of Porto Seguro,

199
who had been lately brought from thence for
the purpose; and that -we were to have been
removed to the Fort do Mar, but through the
absence of our captain, the new prisoner had
been taken to Fort St. Pedro, where he was
closely confined.
i This change shows that some new orders
have lately arrived, notwithstanding the an
swer given to my late enquiries. -
The inhabitants of Bahia have a singular
mode of keeping the vigil of St. John (Mid-
summer-eve). A number of straight,- tall, slen
der trees, similar to poplars, were cut close to
the root, and fixed to the ground through all the
, streets and environs of the city; dry wood was
piled round the tree up to the branches, and
thus in the evening were formed innumerable
fires. Why the saint should thus be warmly,
ushered in, I have not been able to discover.
I have used the most unremitting enquiry
to discover the purport of the late European
dispatches; but can acquire merely conjecr
tural information.

200
I called on captain Velozo, of the Fort do
Mar ; and found that he had actually had an
order from government for our reception as
close prisoners. That such a command should
be issued and not carried into effect, is a sin
gular contradiction, and leaves me in more
obscurity than ever. O God, what a situation
is ours ! — to be und§r the lash of a despotic
government, whose measures are concealed
and unknown, till, like bursting thunder,
they overwhelm us. The only resource left,
is to redouble the secret exertions Avhich I
have lately been making for an early depart
ure from this inauspicious country.
The government are peculiarly strict in
having all the young men of the city enrolled,
to serve either as regulars or militia; and
scarcely any rank will exempt or protect them.
Calling on a merchant, I found his son engaged,
in preparing a petition to the governor, ex
cusing himself on this head : alleging that he
Was already a serjeant of a volunteer militia
in Oporto, which city he had lately left with

201
his father in their own vessel ; that he was
associated in the firm of the house, and more
over a familiar of the santa officio, or inqui
sition. On expressing my surprise at this last
circumstance, he assured me of the fact, and
took from his bosom the insignia of the office,
— a small oval medallion, with a red cross sup
ported by two laurel branches, enamelled on
a white field : this is worn suspended from
the button-hole or the waistcoat by a green
ribbon ; but the medallion itself is always con
cealed, and- only produced on extraordinary
emergencies, or in cases of publicly demand
ing assistance.
Some hours afterwards I looked in again,
and found the young man returned from au
dience ; but his memorial, and personal elo
quence, had been equally fruitless. The go
vernor replied, that " his being a soldier in
" Oporto made him far the more competent for
" one in Brasil, as he thus would not want in-
" struction; and that he was merely doing his
fC duty in serving his country either at home

202
« or in her colonies. In point of business,—*
" the greater property he had the more it
" should inspire him with courage and inclin-
" ation to defend it; and as a familiar, his
" military would never interfere with his civil
" duty, but rather supply greater activity when
" called upon in that capacity."
4. — A British vessel entered the bay; the
Prince of Wales, Indiaman, captain Price,
from London ; but I had not an opportunity
of going on board.
. 5.— -The streets are thronged with English
faces ; the vessel carrying a number of passen
gers ; who, with officers, -are on shore. This
is to me a most novel and pleasing sight. I
took the liberty of enquiring news from two
gentlemen (the reverend Dr. Kerr, and Mr.
Humphreys) ; who politely gave me informa
tion, sympathised in my misfortunes, intro
duced me to captain Price, and joined with
him in a friendly general offer of service.
6. — Wishing to enjoy the invitations of my
countrymen in visiting them, I waited on the

203
governor, and requested the favour of dining
on board, which he positively refused me, or
even of approaching the vessel. It hurt me
for the moment : but this pain was presently
alleviated by the company on shore of my
new friends, with whom I passed a charming
day, and lost all remembrance of past disap
pointments in such agreeable fellowship, i
7. — A continuation of yesterday's social en
joyment : but these happy hours are tran
sitory indeed ; as the vessel sails on the mor
row, and even disturbed us towards night by
various signals of a still earlier departure.
8. — Some wine purchased by my friends
suffered a temporary detention ; and I hasten
ed to the palace respecting it, just as captain
Price entered to take his audience of depart
ure. Their linguist having left Bahia, they
requested my assistance in that capacity. The
governor behaved exceedingly polite, which
was indeed his constant exterior; and conversed
i
not only on the business of the visit, but very
diffusely on the politics of Europe ; respect-

204
ing which he possessed information- of a later
date than that brought by the Prince of Wales.
Bade adieu to the regretted society of the
last three days. I found them Avell-informed
men, of the most liberal ideas; arid strangers
to that reserve which too often prevents an
Englishman from free intercourse with a
» stranger. 9 to 12. — We are again left to the blank to
Avhich we so long have been subjected — -to the
miserable society of a most rancorous nation,
who (with some exceptions) collectively exert
themselves to hurt our feelings.
At this moment, however, the venom loses
its effect; and the tedious hopelessness is
sufferable, under the consoling knowledge that
the hour is fast approaching when a change
will take place, — zee hope, for the better.
13. — A vessel from Lisbon brought the dis
agreeable intelligence that Avar has recom
menced between England and France. This
has occasioned a very considerable sensation ;
and even the proclamation of the prince of

205
Brasil, of keeping his country neutral, has not
been able to dissipate the alarm. It is the
general opinion that hostilities will be still
further extended, and that Portugal will take
part with France and Spain: in such case,
what a miserable accumulation would be thus
added to our present misfortunes ! — the bare
idea will invigorate my present exertions.
14. — This day completes my year's diary.
Good God ! how little I conceived when I
first sat down to pen these remembrances,
that they would extend to so tedious a, period!
Our communication nearly confined to un
pleasant foreigners, our correspondence inter
cepted, not the smallest news by any channel
from former connexions, during the whole
time : — subject to the heavy hand of a distarft
tyranny ; and, at moments, trembling for our
existence: still at the mercy of the same
power, which can again plunge us into the
extreme of misery; or, if more favourable,
continue us years prisoners : — under these im
pressions c-f the past, and with similar ones of

20(5
the future, we have no alternative but escaping;
which has incessantly employed our thoughts
for some weeks past.
The first arrangement for this end was, to
purchase a small decked vessel by means of a
friend, and to sail without clearance to the
West-Indies : but in the execution of this
plan, such insuperable objections arose, as
compelled us to abandon it ; at the same time
having also an offer, apparently more eligible,
of a passage in a large vessel to Oporto ; by ,
which Ave shall reach Europe at once, and on
the spot where we purpose seeking reparation
for the extreme injustice which Ave have suffer
ed. The vessel is appointed to sail the end of
this month; and the interval will be so entirely
occupied by our preparations for departure,
as to prevent the continuation of the occa
sional remarks which have hitherto formed
the substance of my Diary.
From the 14th of July to the 5th of August,
we were employed in removing our apparel
and other trifling effects, in small parcels, to

207
the house of a friend near the beach ; watch
ing every opportunity and using many stra
tagems, to convey them away without suspi
cion. Our precautions were successful ; and,
at last, Ave saw nothing of ours remaining at
Barbalho but trivial articles, or such as were
too bulky for us to think of removing. These
arrangements, however, were not effected with
out a constant and most harassing anxiety :
in each face around us we fancied that we saw
mistrust ; not a stranger came to the fort but
we imagined him an officer of police deputed
to remove us ; and at each creak of the inner
port we involuntarily ran to the window, to
see who passed.
In the day of the 5th, the merchant informed
me that his ship wOuld sail with the following
morning's tide ; towards evening therefore we
prepared to leave our dismal abode. We con
cluded for William and Louis * to continue
in our apartment till morning, to prevent
* My late mate, and my servant.

208
suspicion; and to depart ourselves in the
dusk, before the locking of the port. Mrs. *
Lindley disguised herself in a long man's-
cloak, with a round hat : and scarcely breath
ing, and trembling with anxiety, we passed
the draw-bridge in safety, hurried over the
flat in front of the fort, and (as we turned to
the city) gave a glad farewell look on the
gloomy towering battlements of Barbalho. A
bed was provided for us by a friend ; but sleep
fled our eyes through the fatigue of the pre
ceding day, and a latent apprehension of the
approaching event.
Arose very early; and, accompanied by
our friends, went in chairs to a boat which
was waiting to convey us to a small covered
launch, hired to carry us to sea after the ship
— it being impossible to go on board in the
bay without a considerable risk to all parties.
At the launch, we found that William and
Louis had arrived before us. We now parted
with those valuable friends who -had thus ma
terially assisted us in a country where their

209
.persons arid property would have suffered se
verely had a discovery taken place ; who ex
erted themselves from the purest . motives of
humanity and benevolence (the grand cha
racteristics of the society to which they are so
high an honour *), thus forming a strong con
trast to their degenerate and unenlightened
countrymen.  How can I express to- them
our sincerest, heartfelt, gratitude !
The ship Avas by this time nearly qut of the
bay ; and although the launch, with its im
mense latten sails, gained on the distance fast,
yet we all felt an anxious jmpatience,-^-in-
creased by a doubt of the captain's sincerity,
and a boat being apparently in chase of us:
.1
but our fears were unfounded ; the boat dis
appeared, and by mid-day we nearly overtook
the vessel,— displaying the concerted signal,
which was answered.
Another difficulty now arose. Our shelf of
a launch could make no way through the
* Freemasons. P

210
swell, and pitched as if it would bury us in
every wave. The ship tacked, and we arrived
alongside : a rope was thrown out ; but the
awkward fellows missed it, and we remained
once again far astern. The vessel hove her
sails aback ; and in another quarter of an hour
we gained her lee-quarter, and secured a rope:
the sea ran very heavy ; and, after consider
able exertion and danger (through the strik
ing of the launch), we climbed up the poop
and happily arrived on board.
When I looked around, and, saw all safe, I
joined my spouse in an expressive ejacula
tion to a beneficent Almighty — for our pre
servation, our escape, and the apparent pro
spect of REGAINED LIBERTY I -

DESCRIPTION

THE PROVINCES

PORTO SEGURO

SAINT SALVADORE.

p 2

DESCRIPTION

THE PROVINCE

PORTO SEGURO.

PORTO SEGURO is formed by a reef (or
rather ledge) of rocks, that run from an extend-s
ed point of the main, about a mile outj in a di
rection parallel to the land,-^-forming a na
tural mole. These rocks are dry at low water,
and terminate abruptly; appearing again
faintly at half a mile distance : the space be
tween is the bar, or entrance ; over which is
twenty feet water at high tides, but inside it
shallows to twelve feet. This last is the aver
age water of the port, except at some distance
up, where a river empties itself, and the water
is somewhat deeper. The bottom is a fine
sand, gradually ascending to a broad beach.
In entering the port, the view of the coun
try is delightful. Near the water's edge is a^

214
range of fishermen's cottages; shaded with the
waving cocoa in front, and each having its ad
joining orange-ground. On the back of these
cots the native underwood intrudes; and, in
tersected into numberless paths, forms .ever
green groves, full of birds of rich plumage,
and some of song. To the northward the
land rises to a steep hill, which is ascended by
a winding path; and on its summit stands the
town. The streets here are sufficiently broad,
straight, but irregularly disposed ; the houses
are generally of one story, low, and ill built,
— of soft clay bricks, cemented with the same,
and plastered over : but they all appear dirty
and wretched. About half a dozen are of two
stories : the largest of which is a quadrangular
town-house and prison of some extent, the
house of the civil governor (formerly a college
of Jesuits), and one or two of the others are the
residences of indi\>iduals.
The church is plain and has glass windows*;
* The houses are wholly destitute of casements to theii
windows, except a split-cane blind.

215
And is by far the best-erected building in the
place. A new one is now finishing, which I
at first mistook for a barn or warehouse ; ex
cept at the same time indeed wondering at
the excellence of the materials, which are
stone and red baked bricks. I found that both
this and the first, were composed out of an
original church, and a monastery of Francis
cans erected at the establishment of the town
in 1550, and long since decayed. The poor
brothers of this establishment were removed
to Bahia, leaving the harvest of the place re
luctantly to the Jesuits; who were already
immensely rich, and were now fast increasing
— when a stop was put also to their career, as
they were expelled from Porto Seguro at the
same time when their order was dissolved in
Europe. On the banks of the river, below, ^stands a
village full as large as the town ; the whole 'con- .
taining about four-hundred houses (or rather
cabins), and three, thousand inhabitants, in
cluding slaves and indians. Their employ-

216
ment is solely in a fishery off the islands and
rocks of Abrolhos ; where they catch a large
fish of the salmon species (gar ope), which they
salt for the Bahia market. About fifty deck
ed launches are employed in this fishery ; and
they keep the sea a month or six weeks, till
their cargoes are completed.
The business of careening these launches,
and making the necessary nets and lines,
forms the work of those who remain in the
town and are not fishers. Their lines are the
best in the world ; composed of cotton well
twisted, and then rubbed several times with
the inner bark of a tree which contains a glu
tinous resin that immediately hardens in the
sun, and is proof against the decay of salt
water, — thus rendering the lines peculiarly
strong and yet elastic.
The property of the launches and their car
goes is confined among a few individuals, who
are comparatively rich ; receiving returns for
their fish in cash, and necessaries of food and
clothing, — which the) sell again to such of

217
their poorer dependents as can purchase (for
the generality are unable). Happily for these
latter, they live in a beautiful climate ; where
no extremes of heat or cold distress the human
frame, and where they can exist almost with"*
out clothing.
The common food of the inhabitants is salt
fish, and farinha (here sold at three shillings and
six-pence a bushel) ; with oranges, bannarias,
and cocoas : which fruits are in such abund
ance, that they are of no value.
Our usual English vegetables are in this
country exotics : potatoes are unknown ;
onions are procured from Bahia * ; and cab
bages I only saw in the garden of the vicar,
for they are here uncommon.
Fresh fish are in great quantities on the
coast; but the inhabitants are too indolent to
procure them, and this article is dear and
$carce. The meat kilfed is beef, one beast only each
* -First broug-htiirorn Lisbon; few being sown in Brasil.

218
Sunday ; the prime.quarters of which are taker!
for the governor and officers of the town, and
the remainder is disposed of to the people at
the rate of three vintims a pound. Swine and
sheep would be abundant, if the breeding of
them were encouraged; as the woods afford in
exhaustible food for these animals: but so
strangely are the inhabitants infatuated, that
hardly a pig, and not a goat or a sheep, is to
be seen. I admit indeed that they have lately
had but little encouragement to be solicitous
in rearing any thing, through the rapacity of
the late governor,— -who has taken their cattle
and poultry without any compensation ; and
such is their oppression, that they dare not
even complain.
The principal inhabitants have each their
country farm ; chiefly situated on the banks
of the river, and ranging five leagues from its
mouth up to Villa Verde in the west. At these
they have plantations of sugar-canes, and
mandiock for farinha. Poultry and domestic ,
cattle are plentiful : nevertheless the living

219
here is scarcely superior to that in town: and
it will with difficulty be believed that milk is
totally unused by them *. If a stranger en
quires for this last article, they confine a cow
during the night apart from its Calf, and then
take its milk : and when I informed them that
milk composed a- great part of the general
food in Europe, I was disbelieved ; as, far
from considering it nutritious or wholesome,
they deny it to the sick and weakly, from
thinking that it serves to aggravate diseases.
In short, in a country which, with cultivation
and industry, would abound with the blessings
of nature to excess, the greater part of the peo
ple exist in want and poverty, while even the
small remainder know not those enjoyments
which make life desirable.
Employment-of any sort among the females
is nearly unknown. In some few instances I
have seen them fabricating a coarse lace for
their own use ; but this is by no means unir
* J must except the governor and vicar.

220-
tersal. The needle they are still less acquaint
ed with ; for there are few who can sew their
simple chemises (although their chief article of
dress), and they have mulatto slaves for that
purpose. Cookery is entirely out of the ques
tion ; their general diet not requiring nor ad-
mitting it : and so completely ignorant are
they of this addition to our comforts, that
some flour which I had I could not get con
verted into bread throughout the town.
The province naturally abounds in the most
delicious fruits for preserves^ but this prepara
tion too is totally neglected by the ladies;
even the confections and marmalades of Bahia
, and Rio Janeiro being manufactured by male
slaves. In short, the people here merely ve
getate in a senseless apathy and unnerving
indolence, increased by the equal neglect of
their minds : for few of the females can read ;
and writing is an art which not many of the
men acquire.
The same inanimate existence and con-
stitutional idleness characterize the male sex.

221
They lose whole days in visiting each other,
yawning in flimsy conversation, or playing al
cards for pence; while the plantations, &c.
are carried on by European overseers, some
favourite mulattoes, or confidential slaves.
Nor is the climate to be admitted as an ex
cuse for this want bf exertion : for many weeks
are moderate as an European September, and
their winter months are generally so ; even
during, the hot days there are intervals of cool
breezes, besides some hours of every evening
and morning, during which the sun's rays
have but little force, and the ground is cool,
from the excessive dews generally found with*
in the tropics, and particularly here.
The animals of the province are similar to
those which abound throughout Brasil; and
are far inferior in size, strength, and spirit, to
those of the same kinds in the African and
Asian continents. The principal ravenous
quadrupeds are ounces, leopards, tyger-cats,
hyena wolves, wild boars, and the saratue: the
latter is about the size of a fox, only far more

22S ' '
savage and hardy, is very destructive among
poultry, and defends itself with great reso
lution when attacked.
The^ pregusia, or sloth, is very common
here, but perfectly inoffensive. Monkeys are
chiefly of the grey sort, and scarce near the
settlements. Tatus, or armadilloes, run in
every quarter here -,/ and are divided into five
variations of the species :-— the tatu assu is the
largest, and approaches the size of a large
hog; the tatu peba is something less; the
tatu verdadeiro is the kind which is generally
described ; the tatuin is smaller ; and the tatu-
bolla is the most diminutive, possessing a
quality similar to the hedge-hog, of rolling it
self into a ball when attacked, and presenting
its, mail, on all sides, which thus forms an im
penetrable shield-
In the interior there are droves of wild cattle
and horses ; though but little used, as they
scarcely ever approach the c ast except more
to the southward. The horses in use, both
here and at Bahia, are of the Buenos Ayres,

22S
breed : not very high, seldom exceeding four
teen hands ; small boned, and round. These
keep themselves in excellent order, and endure
great fatigue (notwithstanding the climate).;
but they exhibit no beauty in their form, nor
spirit in their movements.
The mules are the largest and best shaped
perhaps in the world. I saw at Aranguez in
Spain, several years ago, some very large ones,
bred by order of his Catholic majesty;, that had
sluggish, ill-formed, and enormous heads;
while these, on the contrary, are lively and.
spirited in their whole appearance.
I was very solicitous in my enquiries after
the lama and vicuna of Peru, which are like
wise seen in Paraguay, near the Straits of Ma
gellan, and other parts of this continent ; but,
though Brasil corresponds in latitude with
Peru, and has the same general productions,
it has none of these animals, nor even any
similar to them in description.
The sheep are of a small breed, apparently
European, with some exceptions, of a kind

224
rather larger, that has several horns, aosd
others of the hairy African.
Of the feathered race there is a great va
riety of the most brilliant plumage, and manyr
that are not known in Europe : but it would
require the discriminating powers of an able
naturalist to describe and enumerate the
birds, reptiles, and insects, of this province and
country. The trees round Porto Seguro and the
neighbouring provinces, are extremely rich in
gum, of the resinous, mucilaginous, and bal
samic kinds. The former exudes from every
branch, and on the stump of the cut trees a
mass runs out, that frequently lies neglected
on the ground beneath.
Among the balsams is one similar to torn
(bicuiba) and copaiva. It is this sort that
is sent to Europe. The tree from which it
issues is of the pine species, but it is the
female only that gives balsam, and to procure
it, the tree is commonly cut down, and the
juice received in pans.

225
The botanical productions are immense;
but tlie inhabitants, have scarcely any know
ledge but of those immediately1 connected
with their profit.
The captainship qr province 6f Porto Se-
, guro extends on the north to the river Grande,
where it meets the province of the isles (des
Ilheos), the bank on each side bounding the
respective districts. This river is yet un
explored, and even near its mouth is but thinly
irihabited, as it furnishes over its bar at high
tide but two fathom water. Immense woods
ranging along the coast each way, crowd its
banks; and the trees of which they are formed
are considered as the best for ship-building in
Brasil. It is from thence, and Patipe adjoin
ing, that the king's yards are supplied with
timber. The trees chiefly used are the sippi-
pira, peroba, oraubu, and louro. The first
resembles the teak of India; the others, species
of oak arid larch. Putumuju, angelim, and
cedar, are used! for deck planks ; piquosa and
peroba are a lighter wood, and similar to fir

226
in working. There are besides these jacka-
randa (or rosewood), Brasil, log, and cam-
Avood ; mahogany, campeachy, and a variety
of others.
The river Grande, after ascending the coun
try to a considerable distance westward, turns
to the south, and is supposed to have its source •
beyond the mines of Pitangui, but has never
yet been investigated so far. It is broad
and deep at its mouth within the bar, and
continues so to some distance above it, classing
in magnitude amongst the secondary rivers
, which flow through this immense continent.
For fifteen days the expedition I have men
tioned in the introduction proceeded up the
river in canoes, uninterrupted by falls or ra
pids, and without obstruction of any kind to
their navigation, within that period. They
found its banks incalculably rich in natural
production;, and abounding with articles
of food ; the Avoods with Avild hogs, and sa
vannahs with cattle, &c. At the termination
of their voyage, at a small distance from the

227'
river, were diamonds lying on the surface 6f
the earth ; but; according to their account, of
srnall Size and value. They found also , to
pazes, amethysts, and emeralds; and they
meditated a. second excursion, but were pre
vented from carrying it into effect. In fine,
the river Gratide (of Porto Seguro *) wants
encouragement only to become a great na
tional benefit ; though probably it is the po
licy of the Portuguese government to let it
remain unknown and unpeopled.
Passing the coast to the south from the
river Grande, we come to Belmont, a new and
thriving settlement; arid at some distance
further are the town and district of Santa Cruz.
The harbour admits vessels of twelve feet, and
the Coroa Vermeil immediately adjoining, to
the southward, ships of any burthen : the
town is decayed and inconsiderable. Five
leagues further; still coasting, is Porto Seguro ;'
to the south of which, beyond the chapel of
* There are several rivers of the name of Grande, on
the east coast of South America.
¦. a 2

228
Nossa Senhora de Juda, the small shallow bay
of Tranquoso indents the shore. There are se
veral plantations here, arid the country is
delightful. The Rio des Fratres is riot far distant ; but
the mouth of this river being completely
choaked up with a bar, it has not even a so
litary plantation on its banks. The country
to the soujh of the Rio des Fratres is moun
tainous : Monte Pascoa rears its circular white
head, and is conspicuous to a great distance,
serving as a pilot-mark in the dangerous na
vigation to the river Carevellos, for the whole
coast here is a continuation of reefs, sunken
rocks, and shallows; yet the neighbouring
pilots conduct vessels so skilfully through,
that few accidents are known.
From the Rio des Fratres to Villa Prado
is a long range of neglected coast, intersected
by several smaller rivers, and frequented by
such numbers of hostile Indians, that travel
ling on the beach is extremely dangerous, and
never attempted without a guard. Prado is

229
a thriving fishing town, and Alcoabass still
more flourishing; the inhabitants of the neigh
bourhood employing their whole industry in
the culture and preparation of farinha, which
they carry to the port of Carevellos, The river
Carevellos * has a formidable and dangerous
bar, that will admit vessels of twelve feet only;
but when over the bar they have ten fathom
water. The river is two miles broad, and
proportionally deep; and for six miles that it
ascends to the town, its banks are beautifully
interspersed with plantations,, The town is
bustling and populous; the buildings are some
what superior to those of Porto Seguro, though
in the sarue style ; but the church has a mean
and most miserable appearance. The country
around is well cultivated with platttations of
mandiock ; this being the priricipal mart of
farinha for the coast; and the place from which
Rio Janeiro, Bahia, and Pernambucco, are
chiefly supplied. A considerable number of
* Or of ships : carevellos being an ancient name for
three- mast vessels.

230
sumacks, barks, and launches, belong to
this port, which are built there, not only
for its own use, but for that also of Porto
Seguro. Ten leagues to the soUtlrward of Carevellos
is San Matthias, the final boundary of the
captainship in this direction, and there like
wise mandiock is planted.
Through the whole extent of the provinces
agues are extremely prevalent, and far more
afflicting and dangerous than with us ; few
Europeans escape its attapk: as you proceed
to the southward, the. "disorder increases in
force; and at the last-mentioned place is so
fatal, that it generallwbecomes the grave of
those strangers avIiq visit it.
The coast of the province extends to a di-.
stance of seventy leagues, and to the westward
is without , confines ; yet the present settle
ments in that direction do not reach ten.
leagues from the sea, notwithstanding the in
terior is known to contain gold, and to abound
in other valuable minerals : for -in addition to

231
what has been noticed of Rio Grande, it may
be observed, that Lewis Brito de Almeida,
governor-general, in the year 1570 *, received
from some converted Indians information of
this fact, which he was ordered by the coUrt
of Lisbon to investigate ; and mineralogists
being sent out to him for the expedition, they
proceeded up the riverDocef , entered a branch
Of it, called the Mandi, and, disernbarking
here, travelled westward till they came to an
immense lake, called by the Indians the mouth
of the sea : passing this lake, they reached the
river Accesi, and having ascended it, arrived
at length at the spot, Avhence they brought
away very valuable samples of emeralds, sap
phires, topazes, and crystals ; but so little
attention was at that period, or has since been,
paid to the circumstance, that the place it
self, and the marks by which to find it, have
been lost.

* Histoire d'Amerique.
f Which adjoins San Matthias, and discharges itself in'
the province of Espirito Santo.

232
The inhabitants of Porto Seguro plume
themselves on the circumstance of theirs being
the immediate spot where Brasil was first dis
covered by Pedro Alvares Cabral ; and they
still preserve with great veneration the holy
cross, that was erected under a spreading tree.
at the first high mass, with music, discharge
of ordnance, &c. during which the Indians,
they say, flocked in crowds at a sight so
novel, and continued in profound silence, ab
sorbed in amazement and curiosity; and that
(e the divine spirit so visibly manifested it*
" self, that the natives, at the momerit, Avere, l
" converted to the holy faith." Alvares de*
nominated the new-found country, after this
cross,SantaCruz ; but the name was afterwards
altered by king Emanuel to that of Brasil, from
the tree ibiripitanga, producing a rich glow*.
ing red '*, which was then, a great novelty, and
since of considerable value in Europe.
* Brasas, or Brazas ; a glowing fire, or coal,

DESCRIPTION

THE PROVINCE

SAINT SALVADORE*,

AFTER the discovery of Brasil,, Emanuel lost
no time in sending Americus Vespucius to ex
amine the coast, and Gbncalo Coelho to in
vestigate the products, face of the country, &e.
Notwithstanding the favourable reports of these
commanders, his majesty was so deeply en
gaged in his Asiatic expeditions, that he could
not spare men to attempt either ,the peopling
of so extensive a colony as Brasil, or the subr
jugation of its natives, who had already ex-
* More generally known to the natives and Portuguese
ty the name of Emjia (theBayJ, no' other appellation
being in present use.

234
hibited appearances of a determined hostility.
John the 'Third succeeding his father, at a
period when the general tranquillity enabled
him to devote his whole attention to America,
he sent out several able geographers of the.
day ; and, governed by their reports, divided
the land into provinces, which he presented
to the most enterprising noblemen in the king
dom, a province to each, on condition of their
taking upon themselves the entire charge and
care of subduing and colonising the same.
Christovao Jacques was the officer who re
turned from exploring the province of Bahia,_
and reported the extreme capaciousness of the
bay (which he had dedicated to all the saints),
and the exuberant beauty of the adjoining-
territory. But it was not till some years had,
elapsed, that John presented this province to
Francisco Perreira Coutinho, a nobleman re
cently returned from Incba; Avho instantly
fitted out a small squadron, and, accompanied
with a considerable number of adventurers,-'
soldiers, and others, commenced the 'enter-

235
prise. The nation in possession of this part
of Brasil were the Tupinambas, one of the
most social tribe of Indians; and who, to the
surprise of Coutinho, were considerably ad
vanced in civilization. This was owing to the
accidental assistance of an individual, Alva
res Qorrea, who, wrecked on his passage to
India, had saved his life, with some of his peo
ple, and most of their effects. The wonders
which fire-arms, and other European inven
tions, enabled Alvares to exhibit to the simple
Indians, procured him the adoration of the
nation, which he was careful not to abuse ;-
'and they supplied him and his companions
with the natural produce of the land, the
spoils of the chase, and with females, select
ing the daughter of the chief for Alvares.
After a short continuance, a French ship on
a voyage of discovery and trade touched at the
bay ; Alvares took advantage of the circum
stance, and embarked with his Indian spouse,
carrying with him to Europe the best samples *
pf the wealth and curiosities of the country.

236
Henry the Second, and the celebrated Cathe
rine de Medicis,%then ruled over France ; arid
the wanderers were received by them with the
greatest public attention and secret pleasure.
The poor Indian was immediately baptised,
in a most sumptuous ceremony; their ma
jesties standing sponsors, and the queen giv
ing her own name to the new Transatlantic
christian. Considerable pains we're taken to instruct
Catherine Alvares in her adopted religion,
and the manners of the age ; while her hus
band, prevented from going, as was his first
intention, to Lisbon, was cajoled to conduct
a French trading expedition to the coast ofr
the Tupinambas. He accordingly returned
thither with his wife ; and Catherine, full of
her acquirements, was indefatigable in her ex
ertions to convert and civilise her country
men. Already a church was erected, several'
sugar plantations were laid out, and a general
cultivation was beginning, when Coutinho
arrived : but this nobleman, armed with regal

237
authority, despised the mild steps hitherto
taken by Alvares, condemned every thing
that was transacting, and shortly commenced
a cruel persecution against the poor nation,
hitherto unused to severity. In consequence,
they called in the assistance of their neighbours
theTamoyos; destroyed the ingenios, and other
works erecting by Coutinho; slaughtered great
numbers of his people, overpowered all his ef
forts, and compelled him to retire with the re
mainder of his followers, and his two ships, to
Uheos, which had also just begun to be coloniz
ed. There Coutinho procured a strong rein
forcement, and sailed again for the bay; but,
entering it in bad weather, the vessel was
wrecked on the island of Itaporica, and nearly
every soul belonging to it massacred by the in
habitants. In the mean time, king John, having been
apprised of the efforts made by Alvares, and
of the superior situation which the bay afford
ed for a capital to his new colonies, no sooner
learned the death of Coutinho, than he re-

238
sumed the gift of the province, and ordered
an expedition to be fitted out, sufficient to
colonize it completely, and erect a city, under
the auspices of Thome de Souza, the most ex
perienced general of the Portuguese.
Among the variety of persons who accom
panied De Souza, was a body of Jesuits, under
the- direction of a superior, Padre Manoel,
one of the most enlightened of that sagacious
society ; and, by the wise proceedings of these
¦fathers, the exasperated Indians were soon
soothed, the greater part baptized, and the
colonists left to the, free scope of their exer
tions, and the building of Saint Salvador,
which was the name given by De Souza to
the intended city.
The bay or gulph of All Saints is entered
from the south, and is formed by a large pe
ninsula of the main and the island Itaporica,
extending north-westward among distant is
lands, and a branching inland sea, a complete
degree in extent, and which receives the tri
bute of six large rivers, Paraguassu, Serzipe,

239
Jaguar ipe, Matuim, Paranamerim, and Pa-
raja, all mostly navigable.
The bay properly so called is three leagues
broad at its mouth, twelve in diameter, and
thirty^six in circumference, without including.
the islands or more remote parts of it.
From the bar off Fort St. Antonio, the ex
tremity of thei large peninsula, to the point
of Montserrat (a small peninsula within the
other), and the beach of Tapagippe, is the pari
immediately used for anchorage ; where vessels
are sheltered from every wind in clear ground,
and have a space in which the united shipping
of the earth might rendezvous without con
fusion. /
Viewing this still and capacious lake, as it
may be termed, surrounded Avith a country
exuberantly rich in its produce, whether for
the use or superfluities of man, and situated
nearly in the centre of the habitable globe, it,
seems as if formed by nature for the emporium
of the universe.
liahia is on the right side of the bay, where

240
th& land! at a small distance from the shore
rises steeply to a high ridgy hill, on the sum
mit of which the city is erected, with the ex
ception of a single street that ranges parallel
to the beach : from the inequality of the ground
and the plantations interspersed, it occupies a
considerable space. The buildings are chiefly
of the seventeenth century, ill constructed,
and from the slightness of the materials ra
pidly decaying, which diminishes the effect of
many of them that once were sumptuous. As
in all Catholic cities, the churches are the
most distinguished edifices, and those on
which the greatest attention and expence
were originally lavished. The cathedral is
large, but falling into ruin ; while the College
and archiepiscopal palace (or rather housed
adjoining are kept in thorough repair: they
were all, at the period of their erection, spa
cious buildings, and have a proud station on
the summit of the hill, commanding the bay
and surrounding country. The grand church
.of the ex-jesuits is by far the most- elegant

241
structure 6f the city. It is composed entirely
of European marble, imported for the purpose
at ah immense cost, while the internal orna
ments are superfluously rich : the rails of the
altar are of cast brass, the whole of the wood
work is inlaid with tortoiseshell, and the grand
chancel, and several other communion re
cesses (diverging from the side aisles) with
their respective altars, are loaded with gild
ings, paintings *, images, and a profusion of
other decorations.
The college and monastery adjoining it,
which were the most extensive and best en
dowed of any in Brasil, having for the last
forty years been entirely unoccupied, , go
vernment have lately converted them into a
commodious hospital. The valuable library
is nearly lost to mankind ; the books and ma
nuscripts being huddled together in a neglect
ed room, and in a state almost of ruin. Not
withstanding this apparent indifference to
* Two paintings of Ignatius Loyola and Francisco Xa-
vier have great merit. K

242
science, these modern Goths are tenacious of
strangers approaching the spot. The most
valuable of the manuscripts are the unpublish
ed discoveries in the interior of America by
the fathers, who penetrated much further than
any other individuals. The church and mo-.
nastery of the Franciscans are extensive build-
ings : the latter is two stories high ; the apart
ments of the monks open into spacious cqr-
ridors, that front a large square court with
a fountain in the centre, whose walls are
decorated with European blue tiles in histo
rical compartments, in which passages of hea
then mythology and Christian history are cu*
riously blended.
Immediately adjoining is a separate founda
tion for the brothers of the Franciscans, or
those who, having mixed with the world, may
choose in the latter period of their lives a re
ligious retirement. This building is curiously
fronted in stucco, and remarkable for its neat
cemetery, consisting of two rows of small arch-,
ed vaults, three tiers deep, each vault intend-

243
ed to contain a coffin, which being deposited
in it, the end of the vault is closed. The vaults
are numbered and white-washed, and their
arches relieved with neat colouring : a broad
aisle paved with black and wliite marble
leads between them, and at the end is a dra
pery figure of Religion. The whole is kept
remarkably clean, and well ventilated by win
dows near the roof, which open to the garden;
while the spreading bannana excludes the
sun's rays, and casts a solemn light on this
sadly pleasing abode of death.
The Carmelite church is more modern and
..more elegantly .ornamented than that of the
Franciscans ; and the monastery adjoining is
immensely rich. The same buildings belong
ing to the Benedictines are inferior to those
of the other orders that have been mentioned,
though their revenues are equally productive.
Among the parochial churches those of the
Concession, Pillar, and St. Peter, are the mqst
distinguished within the city, and those of St.
Antonio and Victoria near the bar, which

244
stand iri such striking situations, as to form
excellent sea-marks. There are besides these
several other churches, and a variety of cha
pels, monasteries, and conyents ; all present
ing the same tedious load of ornaments, bad
taste, and excess of superstition.
The principal squares or places are, the one
immediately adjoining the palace, and that of
the Jesuits.
The streets are confined and narrow,
wretchedly paved, never cleaned, and therer
fore disgustingly dirty. The backs of seve
ral of them are the receptacles of filth*,
which, exposed to so extreme a heat, would
affect severely the health of the inhabitants,
but for the salubrious air that prevails, in
consequence of the ele\ated situation of the
place. In the royal square is the house (or palace)
* A small alley, descending from the palace to the city
below, is noticed by every stranger from its excessive accu
mulation of nauseous rubbish ; in the immediate sight and
scent of the governor's window ! to Uie great credit of the
police and the cleanliness of his excellence.

- . 245
pf the governor, which is an old insignificant
building ; and opposite are the mint and pub
lic offices. The third side coritains the court
house of the relacao, and the remaining one,
the hall of the senate, and the prison. The
latter is an extensive structure, of which the
lower divisions are exceedingly strong and
secure, the windows having two sets of bars
abou^; eighteen inches from each other, of
heavy circular iron. These dungeons are en
tered from a grated room above by trap-doors.
In the centre of the first story is a well-se
cured hall, out of which open a number of
dark cells (secretos), about six feet square,
that have strong close doors but ho windows,
and are provided each with a heavy chain,
fastened to a ring in the wall. These cells are
for inquisition and state criminals.
The prison seldom contains less than two
hundred persons, the greater part confined for
offences disgraceful to society ; and the rest
run-away slaves, and state victims, too fre
quently placed, there on the most trifling
pretences;

246
A small hospital adjoins the prison; but,
from the heat of the climate, the close situa
tion of the building, the want of a free cir
culation of air, and the total neglect of clean
liness, there are upwards of a hundred burials
in a year. The prison is supplied with water
by the slave prisoners, who have iron collars
round their necks, through which a chain
passes and fastens them together. The water
is conveyed in small barrels from a distance,
and is the only article which the prison allows.
The support of the prisoners depends on them
selves, or a religious society, the miserecordia,
who solicit, in all parts of the city, charitable
donations, and distribute daily farinha, soup,
and other provisions, to the most wretched of
the immured.
The custom-house and wharfs are on the
beach, as also is the dock-yard; near which are
the marine store-houses and offices, with the
house of the intendant, or port commander.
Some, but not many, of the superior class of
inhabitants, have erected for themselves large
and elegant mansions (particularly in the vici-

247
titty of the town), and have appropriately fitted
them up. The' habitations of other indivi
duals who are opulent, are roomy and con
venient, but shabbily furnished. Viewing them
from the street, they have a dull and dirty ap
pearance ; and what they thus promise from
without, is completely realised within. In
reality I never saw a country where the in
habitants are so completely neglectful of clean
liness as in Brasil. The houses belonging to
tradesmen and shopkeepers are still mOre dis
gusting : instead of glazed windows they have
wooden drop lattices, which want even the ad
dition of painting to enliven or preserve them.
The lowest order of soldiers, mulattoes, and ne
groes, have tiled cabins, open to the roof, with a
single lattice window. These several and differ
ent buildings (with the exception of a street or
two) are all intermingled throughout the city,
and exhibit a motley and disagreeable appear
ance. The city is protected by a number of forts
and batteries; but, with the exception Of one of

248
eighteen guns, of St, Philips, and Do Mar,
they are nearly nugatory from the want of
Ordnance. As the present defence rests en
tirely on the last fort I have mentioned, I
shall describe it minutely, contenting myself
with only a cursory notice of the others.
The Fort do Mar was erected about the
year 1600, on a small rocky bank of the inner
bay, three-quarters of a mile from the shore,
It was first built in a circular form ; but Avhen
the Dutch entered the. bay in 1624, they were
so greatly annoyed by it, during their, attempt
to take possession of the place, that they
thought it deserving of additional fortifica
tions, and they completed it to the shape it
bears at present, raising the original tower,
and surrounding it with an extensive lower
battery. The diameter of the whole is about
two hundred and seventy feet, and that of
the upper tower battery a hundred : the lower
battery mounts twenty-nine guns, of which
there are a few that are forty-two pounders,
and none less than twenty-four; the upper

249 i
contains only sixteen, consisting of twenty-
fours and eighteens. The tower ascends from
the level of the lower battery about twenty-five
feet : it is not a solid mass, but has several
apartments, which diverge like rays from the
centre to the exterior, and are employed as
magazines for powder, artillery stores, &c. and
for barracks. .The top of the tower is paved with
flag stones, carefully cemented and sloped, to
preserve the rain that falls on its surface,'which, '
collecting in the centre,' descends through a
grate into an extensive reservoir below, and ¦
affords a sufficiency of water for the garrison
for six months without any other supplies.
The house and offices of the commandant,
and some rooms for state or military pri
soners, are ranged on the lower battery, near
the sloping entrance of the fort, on the side
fronting the sea. The garrison, when com
plete, consists of five hundred men, but few
only attend duty, to avoid expence, as I haAre
already mentioned. The shipping usually
anchor between this' fort and the city, where

250
they are immediately under its protection
and that of St. Philips, on the opposite shore.
On the extreme point of the peninsula, and
nearly opposite the, bar, is the small antique
fort and lighthouse of St. Antonio, Do Barro ;
and as you proceed to the bar, a deep small
bay indents the shore, rising to a sandy beach,
and flanked on one side by the trifling fort of
Santa Maria, and on the other by St. Diego,
which is a circular battery.
At the extremity of the city that leads
to the sea, an eighteen-gun battery, chiefly
twenty-fours, ranges at water-mark, and is
in tolerable condition. Passing this, the dock
yard is defended by the high bulwark battery
of St. Philips, mounting about thirty guns of
various bores. There are three other insig
nificant batteries on the inhabited part of
the beach, and a small one on the point of
Montserrat. The city is defended on the land side, at
the south and north passes, which are parallel
to the beach, by three forts : on the -south by

251
the extensive fortification and outworks of
St. Pedro's,, the completest of the whole, but
at the, present moment nearly dismantled.
The northern pass is a valley entirely com
manded by Barbalho (already described) on
the one side, and St. Antonio Do Carmo on
the opposite eminence, nearer the bay. This
last is a quadrangular fort, that has a few guns
peeping over its glacis.
A friend of mine, well acquainted with the
subject, assured me, that on the last returns to
government, ninety-four guns were all which
the different forts and batteries mounted, that
were truly serviceable *.
The troops of the city are inftmtry, and
amount to about five thousand; consisting of
a regiment of artillery, three of the line, three
of militia, and one of mulatto and free negroes,
commanded by a field-marshal, under the
orders of the governor.
* A few days iefore I left Bahia, a survey of the forts
was taken, and it is probable the number of guns will be
increased, as there are some new pieces in the marine and
artillery stores.

,Q52
The pay and appointments are miserable,
but the troops are well armed ; Brasil being
supplied by the mother country with British
tower-proof musquets.
The dock-yard admits on the stocks only a
ship of the line at a time. The business qf
building is constantly going on, but so slowly,
that there is no fear of a sudden or consider
able increase of their marine. A sixty-four
(Principe de Brasil) was launched while I
was in Bahia, and appeared to be a hand
some, well-built, and remarkably strong
vessel: it was four years in completing. At
Tapagippe, near the city, are several pri-
vate yards, in AAhich well-modelled merchant
ships of all dimensions are built, and with
greater dispatch *.
sThe inhabitants of the city and its suburbs
are estimated at upwards of a hundred thou-
* The timber of this country is peculiarly adapted to
ship-building, from its hard durable quality, and like teak
unaffected by worms : but it has a fault from which teak
is exempt, of imperceptibly decaying the iron-work. .

^253
sand; of whom thirty thousand are whites,
thirty thousand mulattoes, and the rest
negroes. The government of Bahia, which is abso
lute, is vested in the governor-general, who
has a temporary control over all the tri
bunals and departments. Six aides-de-camp
belong to his staff, who attend the palace in
turns, a"nd continue day and night in waiting-,
to assist the governor in the common dispatch
of his concerns, in which he has the further
aid of the secretary's department. The ma*
rine is immediately under the care of an in
tendant, who is appointed at Lisbon.
The senate consists of four members and a
president, who transact the public concerns
"of the city, examine weights and measures*
plan public improvements, &c.
The grand court of justice is that of the
relacao, which is composed of the goA^ernor
as perpetual president ; the chancellor, who
is his deputy; the minister of crimes; and
nine subordinate judges of different deno-

254
minations * : from the sentence pronounced
by this court, no appeal can be made, except
at Lisbon.
-- There is also an inferior court of audience
for deciding trifling causes, in which a judge
of crime presides : but here an appeal lies to
the governor, who may confirm or annul the
Sentence, or order the business to be decided
by the relacao. .<.,-*<
The inquisition has never been so severe
here as in the mother country, from the ne
cessity imposed on it, of sending all serious
cases for the determination of the grand tri,
bunal in Lisbon.
These courts have no stated periods of
meeting, which depend on the urgency of
business, or the commands of the governor;
except that some members of the relacao sit
three times a week for common dispatch,.
( .
* The judges, secretaries, &c. even to the meanest rer
tainers of justice, are distinguished by the honorary badge
of a twisted cane, about five inches in diameter, suspended
on the outside of the left pocket, and a small sword j- and
without these they never appear in public.

255
The generality of crimes are punished Avith
imprisonment ; but the atrocious ones of mur
der and treason, with death, unless the par
ties are opulent ; in which ease they too often
escape by means of the subtleties of the law,
by appeal, or by pardon. The executions
that take-place, seldom exceed ten in a year;
but a great number of criminals are annually
transported to Angola, and other Portuguese
settlements in Africa. Punishment by tor
ture is forbidden, and secretos are substituted
in its stead.
• The laws respecting debtors aje extremely
lenient ; a late ordinance prohibits imprison
ment for debt, unless it be a swindling or
fraudulent transaction, which is punished foy
confinement till restitution is riiade, or the
injured party relents. If an individual finds
himself unable to satisfy his creditors, he de
livers over to them his effects, which are sold
and divided, and he is free : but if he neglects
to do this, or refuses to pay, the creditors
seize by distraint eA-ery thing he has, except

256
the clothes on his person, and have claims on
whatever property he may afterwards acquire,
till the debt is liquidated.
, Bahia was created a metropolitan see, by
pope Innocent the eleventh. The archbishop,
has a college and court, immediately apper
taining to. him; and by these he rules the
whole body of canonical clergy, and even the
monastic orders, which are in certain points
subordinate. Many of the clergy in Brasil
live very free lives, not excepting the cloistered
ones, whose vows of poverty and abstinence
are forgoten in the frailties of humanity.
During a former voyage I witnessed this
truth in a monastery of the brothers appointed
to solicit alms for the holy church of Jerusalem.
These appointments vest in the pope; but,
owing to the late troubles in Italy 5 no nomi
nation on this mission had for some time
taken place, so that the society was dwindled
to three or four individuals. These, who are
immensely rich, inhabit the original monastery,
which, is charmingly situated on a hill near

257
the bay. I one day, with some other visitors,
partook of a dinner there. The right reverend
superior was in truth a jolly friar, and his
brothers in no respect derogated from his
pious example. The dinner was excellent,
and French wines of the finest quality were
drank, with the addition of London ale and
porter*. The meal was continued to excess,
when the company adjourned to a cool ter
race, and formed into card parties, still in
dulging in copious draughts. I retired before
the party broke up, and was afterwards in
formed by my introducer, that the indulg
ences of these Jerusalem friars were by no
means restricted to the pleasures of the table.
The revenues of government are partly
derived from the high duties laid on every
sort of merchandise, both at importation, and
exportation. The import, duties amount to
* Here the greatest luxury, from their extreme scarcity,
as they are strictly forbidden to be imported : notwith
standing the superior of the monastery applies by proxy to
every foreign vessel, and is successful in smuggling these
articles into the place.

258
full thirty per cent; and the export ones are
heavy, particularly as to the article of tobacco,
which is in reality a royal monopoly. But
the principal source of the government in
come is the produce of the diamond and gold
mines, and Brasil wood, which pass solely
through its hands, and are astonishingly pro
fitable; so carefully however is this subject
secluded from enquiry, that it is impossible to
calculate the extent of profit, or form a true
estimate of the value of tins' rich colony to
the crown*.
Bahia carries on a very considerable com
merce, from its superior local advantages,
rather than the industry of the inhabitants.
The chief trade is directly with Lisbon and
Oporto, in which about fifty large vessels are
employed, that perform, their voyages Avith
great dispatch. These vessels supply the1

* The many public taxes imposed with us are unknown
to the inhabi'ants of Brasilj except that the church severely
pillages its members, under various pretences, and in
almost every shape.

259
colony with European and Indian manufac
tures, as Avell as wine, flour, bacalhao, butter,
Dutch cheese, salt, and other commodities
and receive in return cotton, sugar, aqua
ardent*, coffee, tobacco, lignum-vitoe, ma
hogany, "satin and tulip woods, a variety of
gums, balsams, and medicinal roots; giving
a considerable balance of .profit in favour of
Lisbon. The Bahiaris have permission to
import their own slaves, and to bring in the
same vessels different African articles, such
as wax and gold dust, Avhich they obtain in
exchange for coarse printed cottonsf , aqua
ardent, and tobacco. The price of a slave in
Bahia is about thirty pounds sterling.
The distant colonial or home trade of the
Bahians is likewise considerable and exten
sive; and that to the southern, Rio Grandein
particular, very lucrative, considering the in
dolent and desultory manner in which it is
* A spiritous distillation from cane juidf and molasses,
but different in flavour from rum. •
-f Chiefly of Lisbon manufacture.
§2

260
conducted. About forty vessels, of two
hundred and fifty tons each, are engaged in
it ; which scarcely complete their voyages in
two years, though the distance is only twenty
degrees to the southward. They take with
them from Bahia a trifling quantity of rum,
sugar, earthenware, and European goods
(chiefly British and German), which they dis
pose of for the greatest part, the salt excepted,
in a contraband traffic with the Spaniards
of Maldonado and Montevideo, for silver.
During this traffic the crews are employed in
loading with jerk beef and hides, prepared
from the fine cattle that abound in the Savan
nahs adjoining Paraguay. After slaughtering
these animals, they cut the flesh into thin
pieces, about two feet in length, Avhich they
salt, and dry in the sun and smoking-houses ;
and they cure the hides at the same time.
The ships, as they arrive at Bahia, sell the
beef on board by retail, at two vintins a
pound. It is purchased principally by the
lower class of inhabitants, and for the use of

$61
slaves and shipping. By disposing in this
manner of a cargo, instead of landing it, a
vessel is detained five months in port, and
sometimes longer; so that in the period which
one voyage takes, reckoning tha idle time
lost at Rio Grande, three might be made.
The trade carried on in the immediate
confines of the bay, of which a great part is
inland, is astonishing. There are full eight
hundred launches and sumacks of different
sizes, daily bringing their tribute of commerce
to the capital : tobacco, cotton, and various
drugs, from Cachoiera; the greatest assort
ment of common earthenware from Iaguaripe;
rum and whale-oil from Itaporica ; timber
from the province of the Ilheos; farinha and
salt fish from Porto Seguro ; cotton and maize
from the rivers Real and San Francisco; and
sugar, fire-wood, and vegetables, from all
quarters. A degree of wealth, unknown in
Europe, is thus put in circulation, and would
be considerably increased, if even the supine
nation who at present enjoy the country

262
were left to their free exertions; but their
trade is slavishly fettered by the severest regu
lations. Bahia, as Well as Pernambucco, has
a staple for cotton; and on the importation of
this article, in the launches and sumacks, the
Whole is landed at a warehouse appointed for
the purpose, where it is Aveighed, sorted, and
pressed ; its quality, first, second, or inferior,
marked on the bales; and then it is ready for
exportation. In this general store it continues
till disposed of by the owner, at the prices.
commonly fixed by the staplers. The aqua
ardent is in the hands of an exclusive com
pany, to whom every pipe that does not pass
through its warehouses pays a duty increas
ing it to the price at which the company sells.
Tobacco, Brasil-wood, bullion, and the preci
ous minerals, as I have already mentioned, are
diposed of by government alone. Foreigners
are expressly forbidden every species of trade;
and are not even allowed to ship colonial
produce in Portuguese bottoms. In short, the
prohibitions and monopolies are so many,

26.3
that commerce is contracted in its operations,
industry debilitated, and smuggling en
couraged: for men in all countries are„too
ready to engage in what is forbidden, losing
siglrt of the risk, in the delusive prospect of
superior profits,
I took uncommon pains to • procure from
the custom-house the returns of exportation
and importation, but Avas unsuccessful in my
attempts. Indeed, I have reason to think
they are not thoroughly acquainted with the
amount themselves; and, had I obtained what
I sought, little dependance could probably
have been placed on the account, from the
false invoices and other evasions that are con
tinually practised*.
The mode of conducting their commerce is
by barter, notwithstanding the abundance of
* A very considerable quantity of British goods were
constantly smuggled by the Lisbon traders, which they
used to ship at, the mouth of the Tagus: but this practice
has been nearly annihilated, in consequence of a late ordin
ance, inflicting a heavy fine to be paid by the captain, and
transportation to Angola for three years.

264
specie in circulation; and they credit each
other to a great extent. In their dealings'(not
excepting many of the merchants), a mean
an4 knavish cunning prevails, particularly
when trading with strangers ; of whom they
will ask for a commodity double the price
they will take, while they endeavour to under
value what they are to have in exchange by
every artifice in their power. In a word, with
a few exceptions, they are wholly devoid of
the feelings of honour, and without that
common sense of rectitude, which ought to
preside in every transaction between man
and man.
The city abounds with artificers, among
whom are lapidaries, jewellers, gold and
silversmiths; excellent in their several pccu-
pations, but deficient in fashion and taste.
There are also some good taylors, shoe
makers and tanners. The latter manufacture
leather, and in sufficient quantities to export
the article, for the coast in general. A brass
cannon-foundery was began, but no appear-

265
anee of it is left. Manufactories are ex
pressly forbidden, except leather, and trifles.
A cotton-spinner who lately attempted one
near Bahia was sent to Europe, and his ma
chinery destroyed.
The province of Bahia comprises fifty
leagues of coast, chiefly in the environs of the
bay, and a small slip to the northward adjoin
ing. Though one of the smallest divisions of
Brasil, it is the most fertile, populous, and
luxuriant, yielding invaluable riches,
:¦ The chief town is Cachoeira, fourteen
leagues from Bahia, most delightfully situated
on the banks of a small river, and the mart
for the northern gold-mines and the produce
of the surrounding cultivated interior. A
seminary, called Belem*, was established
near this town by the Jesuits, for the instruc
tion of youth, both colonists and Indians, on
the most liberal principles; but it has de
clined with the extinction of the order.
Jagoaripe, Anioro Jacobina, Do Sitio, and
* Or Bethlehem.

266
San Francisco, are all bustling toWns of the
province; to which the valuable islands of
Itaporica and St. Paul's also belong.
The country in general is cultivated even
to a considerable distance inland, and is di
vided into very extensive plantations, many
having two or three hundred slaves, with
horses in proportion, to work the engenios ;
except in those situated where water is intro
duced to set in motion the sugar mills, in the
machinery of which a considerable improve
ment has lately taken place, through the
assistance of a French emigrant.
The rich owners of these plantations have
very handsome seats (with chapels adjoining),
where they generally reside, except during
the winter rains; when they repair Avith their
families to their houses in the city, and by
this intercourse their manners and habits
assimilate so much Avith those of the citizens'
as to form the same character.
It is remarkable how indifferently the pro
vince, and capital itself^are served with meat.

267
Mutton, lamb, and veal, are nearly unknown,
and never seen in the market. Beef, during
flesh days, preserves the same unvarying
round. It is extremely lean, flabby, and
tasteless; and so dirtily slaughtered, that its
appearance alone would condemn the use of
it, did not necessity and habit paliate this un
pleasant inconvenience. This is OAving solely
to that want qf stimulus and enterprise which
disgraces in so many instances the colony,
joined to a confirmed avarice, that will neve/
pay more than the usual price for the article
in question, and so encourage the fattening
of cattle; which, in so warm a cliriiate, re
quires great care to obviate the immense
perspiration, and waste of solids, that is ex
perienced here through the whole animal
creation. Bahia is miserably provided with accommo
dation for strangers. An inn is unknown •; and
those who wish for a temporary residence on
shore have no other alternative than taking
the whole or part of a house, and furnishing

268.
it themselves: whichfc however, is easily done;
a few chairs, trunks, and a table, being amply
sufficient, and in character. The' eating-,
houses are distinguished by a tricoloured flag
over the door, but they are so inconceivably
dirty, and the cooking is so horrible, that a
St. Giles's cellar is far preferable. Coffee
houses abound in every street, if you can
dignify by that name a dirty shop, where a
few tables and benches are ranged in front,
with a kind of bar in the back-ground; whence
a filthy liquid, called coffee, is distributed,
which is rendered still more disgusting to the
eye by being served in glasses. These places
-are every morning crowded with persons of
different classes, the respectable and the
vulgar, who, for four vintins, procure a break
fast, Consisting of a glass of coffee, and a roll
spread with rancid Irish butter, the refuse of
the Lisbon market.
The city and country are alike too much
infested with beggars; a subject of real or
affected distress presenting -itself every mo-,

269
ment. The probablereason of this is, the want
of public charities for the relief of the poor,
the aged, and the distressed; together with
a weak police, inattentive to the idleness and
tricking practices of vagabonds, who are here
impudent to, an excess, and intrude them
selves every-where. The monasteries and
convents occasionally distribute donations
¦ both of money and provision, as do wealthy
individuals, on recovery from sickness, and
other occasions. I have witnessed several
assemblages of these mendicants thus receiv
ing benefactions, and the number seldom fell
short of five hundred miserable objects.
The slaves of Brasil are chiefly from the
Portuguese colonies of Angola and Benguela;
a sturdy kind of negroes, docile to a degree,
and very active and lively, particularly the
Benguelese; but these good qualities are
spoiled by the habit of familiarity and idle
ness which they contract after their arrival.
An edict was passed by the late king of
Portugal, that the slaves should only continue

270
in bondage for the term of ten years, and
should immediately on their arrival in Brasil
be instructed in the Catholic faith. The first
part of this law met with immediate opposi
tion on the part of the planters, who ventured -
to remonstrate and petition, but received no
answer: they have nevertheless continued to
evade it, which the government pretends not
to see. The other injunction of the edict
was nearly unnecessary, as it had long been
customary to" baptize the slaves, and the
custom is still universally continued.
This participation in the religion of the
country, and the inconsistent familiarity to
which the slaves are admitted, render them
impudent and licentious to a degree : and the
negro feels his consequence increased by the
great numbers that are emancipated through
service, favour, or purchase; who are of course
Senhors, and frequently assume the character,
and act it with full as much propriety as their
late possessors.
The male inhabitants generally dress as in

271
Lisbon; following the English modes; except
when visiting, or on a holiday, they have
an excess of embroidery and spangles on
their waistcoats, and lace to their linen.
The sword> they have totally thrown aside
(except in office), and cocked hats are going
out of fashion. Shoe and knee buckles, of
rolid gold, and of their own manufacture, are
very common ; and they are fondly attached
to every species of finery. On their return
home these gala clothes are instantly taken
off, and a gown or thin jacket adopted by some
in their stead, while others content themselves
with remaining in their shirts and drawers.
The usual dress of the ladies is a single
petticoat over a chemise. The latter is com
posed of the thinest muslin, and is generally
very much worked and ornamented: it is made
so full at the bosom, that, on the smallest
movement, it drops^ver one or both shoulders,
leaving the breast perfectly exposed; and,
besides this, is so transparent, that the skin is
every-where visible underneath. This viola-

272
tion of feminine delicacy appears the more
disgusting, as the complexion of the Brasilians
is in general very indifferent, approaching to
an obscure tawny colour. Stockings are
scarcely ever used; and, during the rainy sea
son, which is to them cold, they shuffle about
in a pair of slippers, and are accommodated
with a thick blue and white cotton wrapper,
or a woollen great coat faced Avith shag, similar
to the German cavoys. When attending mass,
a deep black silk mantle, worn over the head,
conceals the transparent costume beneath.
They let the hair grow to a great length:
it is twisted, fastened in a knot on the
head, and always loaded with a profusion of
pomatum and poAver of tapioca. On some
public occasions, and visits of ceremony to
each other, a few ladies of rank adopt the
European dress.
The singular custom of permitting the nail
of the thumb, or fore-finger (sometimes both),
to grow to a hideous length, and then paring
it to a sharp point, is common to both sexes.

273
This excrescence, however, is not without its
use, as it serves the men to divide the fibres
from the tobacco leaf, and cut it into shape
preparatory to the rolling it into segars, to
the smoking of which they are greatly addict
ed. Their viols and guitars are also thrummed
with this nail, the flourishing display of which
adds, in their conception, a beauty to the in
strument. And lastly, these sacred nails are
Considered as distinguishing the wearers for
an easy indolence, which in this country is
no trivial recommendation.
The carriages" of Bahia are merely a few
cabrioles. The inequalities of the city render
ing this mode of conveyance inconvenient ;
they are less common than at Rio. Janeiro;
but chairs abound in proportion, and are to
be procured in every street. These chairs are
not like ours, but are much higher, and open
on' the sides, from top to bottom, so that a
person on stepping in is aj once seated. They
are carried on the shoulders of two stout
negroes, by means of two fixed pieces of wood,
T

274.
projecting from the upper part of the chair
both before and behind. On the top they are
profusely ornamented with carving and gild
ing, and are hung with deep curtains of silk
or stuff, stampt with gold and silver leaf to a
variety of patterns.
The richness of -these chairs, and the gaudy
livery of the bearers, are articles in which #
the Brasilian gentry endeavour to excel ; and
sometimes they proceed in this point to the
most ridiculous extreme. I once observed at
Rio a chair completely loaded with cupids
and other emblematic carving, and carried by
two robust blacks, clothed in a light blue
silk jacket, short pantaloons, and a petticoat
over them (similar to that of a w atennan), the
whole deeply vandyked with a red pink. This
flaming dress formed so strange a contrast
with their delicate skins, for they were without
either shoes or stockings, that it seemed al
together the completest burlesque on equipage
that could possibly have been attempted.
It appears to foreigners a strange depriva-

275
tion to which the females of this country are
subjected, who cannot pass the streets with
out being closely shut up in a chair, or se
cluded in a cabriole ; yet such is the force of
custom, that none are seen openly except
within doors.
Bahia has a Portuguese comic theatre,
under the management of an Italian. The
house, with us, would be termed a barn, and
its avenues are so dirty as_to render the going
tq it very disagreeable. The actors, drama,
and scenery, are equally wretched ; the music
is the best, and only tolerable, part of the
performance. The chief amusements of the citizens are
the feasts of the different saints, professions of
nuns, sumptuous funerals, the holy or passion-
week, &c. which are all celebrated in rotation
with grand ceremonies, a full concert, and
frequent processions. Scarcely a day passes
that some one or other of these festivals does
not occur; and thus is presented a continued
round of opportunities for uniting devotion
x 2

276 '
and pleasure, which is eagerly embraced, par
ticularly by the ladies. On grand occasions
of this kind, after coming from churchy they
visit each other, and have a more plentiful
dinner than common under the term ban
quet* ; during and after which they drink
unusual quantities of wine ; and, when ele
vated to an extraordinary pitch, the guitar or
violin is introduced, and singing commences :
but the song soon gives way to the enticing
negro dance. I use this term as best assimi
lating wdth the amusement in question, which
is a mixture of the dances of Africa, and the
fandangoes of Spain and Portugal. It con
sists of an individual of each sex dancing to
an insipid thrumming of the instrument,
always to one measure, Avith scarcely any
action of the legs, but with every licentious
motion of the body, joining in contact during
the dance in a manner strangely immodest.
The spectators, aiding the music with an ex-
* A few of the superior classes give elegant entertain
ments, have family concerts, balls, and card parties.

277
temporary chorus, and clapping of the hands,
Cnjoy the scene with an undescribable zest.
The orgies of the dancing girls in India
never equalled tile flagrancy of 'this diversion.
It is not that minuets or country dances are
not known, and practised by the higher circle's ;
but this is the national dance, and all classes-
are happy when, throwing aside punctilio
and reserve, and, I may add, decency, they
can indulge in the interest and raptures it ex
cites. The effect, of this scene on a stranger
can hardly be conceived ; and though, as an
amusement, it may be intentionally harmless,
it certainly breaks down the barriers of de
cency, and of course paves the Avay to de
pravity and vice.
These amusements, with parties into the
country, and a few others of a -trifling nature,
added to the enervating idleness in which the
Brasilians are plunged, constitute their whole
happiness ; a happiness very incomplete' and
unsatisfactory, while subject to the effects qf
those baleful passions, avarice,; revenge, and

278
cruelty. Happily, however, the two latter
have considerably declined from Bahia to the
southward; assassination there is seldom-known
to take place, and never but on the greatest
provocation : though still in use, the lurking
knife is sheathed, and murders are scarcely
more common than with us.
That this has not always been the case is
certainly true, and it is difficult to say to what
the change in the national manners of these
people is owing. Their neighbours to the
northward, particularly of Pernambucco, de
spising this pusillanimity, (for they possess the
gentle attributes and reproach of their fore^
fathers- uijdegenerated,) assign cowardice as
the cause ; but, surely, it rather originates in
the improved civilisation of this part of Brasil,
which restrains the passions of the inhabitants,
and prevents their extending to their former
licentious bounds. Deceit, pride, and enyy,
are still prevalent among them ; and, while
the mass of the people continue ignorant as
they are, and under the discipline of a church

279 /
and government wanting in a solicitude to en
lighten and reform them, these national cha-~
racteristics must be long, in eradicating.
In their intercourse with foreigners, far less
hauteur is seen in Bahia than in any other
part of the coast ; and the inhabitants would
doubtless be happy to embrace the advan
tages that a free unrestricted trade would
afford ; and in secret they express these sen
timents. The Portuguese government, how
ever, seem at this moriient to be of a very dif
ferent opinion, particularly as to the British
nation ; respecting whom they have adopted a
, new system in their colonies, to vex and irri
tate her commerce. This has been long felt
in their severe custom ordinances, their studied
hindrances and insults to such vessels as thej-
have permitted to refresh at their port?, and,
finally, in the late unjust seizure and deten
tion of several of her ships on ihe coast.
This last injustice the) will carry to a height
that Avill eventually call on our court for so

280
spirited an interference, as not only to obtain
reparation for the past, but effectually prevent
a repetition of such conduct in future : for it
is not to be admitted, that our political inter
course with Portugal, hoAvever bound by a
general interest and balance of trade in our
favour, excuses private and distant insults to
the British flag. In reality, these insults are
the signs of an independent spirit, desirous of
throwing off that reliance and protection the
Portuguese have so long held on Britain, and
prevent us from any further participation in
their commerce.
With this view it was, that that great po
litician, the marquis of Pombal, instituted
those manufactories in Portugal, for the supply
of the colonies, which now are nearly ma
tured; and which, from the care bestowed on
them, will finally supersede the • necessity of
importation from any other country. For
this also it was, that the strict , edict was made
not to allow any exportation of colonial pro-

281
duce, even in Portuguese vessels, except to
Lisbon, Oporto, and the African settlements.
No blame can be attached to these patriotic
efforts for the improvement of the country, or
its commerce ; but the raneour must be con
demned which thus prematurely displays it
self to the power by whose assistance the Por
tuguese have been enabled to help them
selves. Portugal has to thank Britain alone,
that she exists at present as an independent
state ; and that her home territory and colo
nial possessions have not been long divided
among the stronger nations of Europe. This
extreme rigour respecting foreigners, aliehates
the affections of the colonists, numbers of
whom begin to see that it is not their interest
which is considered in this severity ; but, on
the contrary, that the fruit of their exertions
and the riches of their country are swallowed
up in the support and aggrandisement of an
ungrateful government, unsolicitous about,
and careless of, their welfare ; and, perha »s, a

282
short period only will elapse, before these sen
timents will obtain so universal a force as to
rend the bonds asunder which attach the co
lonists to Portugal, and create another poli
tical change in so great a portion of the west
ern hemisphere.

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX.

BRITISH vessels bpund to the East Indies*
China, New South Wales, or the Southern
fishery, from the extreme length of their re
spective voyages, usually find it necessary to
touch at some intermediate ports to replenish
their consumption of water and fresh pro
vision, and repair, any little accidents that
may have happened during- the early part of
their voyage.
The coast of Brasil, and the Cape of Good
Hope, have been found the most convenient
spots for such purpose ; and in time of war the
former is usually preferred. The ports gene
rally used are Pernambucco, Bahia, and Rio
de Janeiro ; particularly the latter, where the

286
provisions are certainly best, and sold at the
most reasonable rate.
From the great influx of vessels to Rio, the
Portuguese were accustomed to strangers, and
heretofore behaved to them Avith civility at
least ; but lately a considerable alteration has
taken place— r-ships are detained on the most
trifling pretences, and individuals belonging
to them insulted and oppressed. Every spe
cies of trade is now totally prohibited in all
theis, ports; yet scarcely a ship enters with
out making some contraband sales, as the
¦very persons appointed to prevent, this are
themselves smugglers, as I have already ob
served in the Introduction. AH purchases
must be made with money, and till thus paid
for, you cannot leave the port ; so that vessels
unprovided ill this respect, are frequently very
awkwardly situated, as it is extremely difficult
to get cash for bills, and never practicable
without paying a discount of twenty and often
five-and-tAventy per cent.
. As the exchange and coin of Brasil are very

287 v,
complex to the unaccustomed traveller, I an
nex an easy table of each, premising, that the
imaginary rea is used as well in Brasilas Por
tugal, and that the table of exchange is cal
culated at the rate of sixty-seven and a half,
or 5s. 7id. sterling for the milrea, though at
present it is much lower in Europe, the ex
change being at sixty-two ; for it fluctuates
like the exchange of all other countries, rising
and falling according to the complexion of
political and commercial events.
TABLE OF EXGHANGE.

leas.

£.

s.

d.

Reas.

£. s.

d.

10

0

0

0|

* 1,000

0 5

Ik

20

0

0

n

2,000

Oil

3

50

0

0

H

3,000

0 16

io|

100

0

0

6i

4,000

1 2

6

200

0

1

u

5,000

1 8

ii

300

0

1

8£

6,000

1 13

9

400

0

2

3

7,000

1 19

41

500

0

%

9i

8,000

2 5

O

600

0

3

4i

9,000

2 10

7

700

0

3

ni

10,000

2 16

3

800

0

4

6

20,000

5 12

6

900

0

5

o\

30,000

8 8

9

* Say a mill, or thousand reas ; two mill, three mill, &c.

288,.
Reas. £. s. d. Reas. £. s. d.
40,000 11 5 0 500,000 140 12 6
50,000 14 1 3 f 1,000,000 281 5 O
* 100,000 28 2 6

£.

s.

d.

Reas.

£.

s.

d.

Reas.

1000

0

o

3,555,000

6

0

0

21,33,6

500

0

0

1,7/8,000

5

0

0

17,780

400

O

0

1,422,400

4

0

0

14,224

300

0

o

1,066,800

3

0

0

10,668

200

0

o

711,200

2

0

0

7,112

100

0

0

355,600

1

0

0

3,556

50

0

0

177,800

0

10

0

1,778

40

0

0

142,240

0

5

0

889

30

0

0

106,680

0

4

0

711

20

0

0

71,120,

0

3

0

533

10

0

0

35,560

0

2

0

356

9

0

o

32,004

0

1

0

178

8

o

0

28,448

0

0

6

89

7

0

0

¦ 24,892

0

0

1

15

It thps appears that the Portuguese ima
ginary rea is used merely to express their
cash by round numbers, while we employ
three terms or figures for that purpose, viz.
pounds, shillings, and pence.
* A cem mill, or hundred thousand.
f Qonti des reas, or a million.

289

TABLE OF COIN.
'GOLD.
Reas. £. s. d.
A dobloon is 40 patackas or 12,800 3 12 O
Half ditto 20 . 6,400 1 16 O
Gold piece of 12§ . . 4,000 12 6
Ditt° 0| . . 2,000 0 11 3
Ditto 3 and two vintins 1,000 0 5 7|
SILVER.
Two patackas is 16 vintins or 640 0 3 7|
Apatack . 8 . . 320 0 1 9*
Half ditto 4 160 say 0 0 11
copper.
Two vintins . is . . 40 0 O 2|
One ditto . ... 20 0 0 If.
The Spanish dollar circulates universally in
Brasil ; but, by a singular custom, if paid by
strangers, it passes at from 720 (As. \d.) to
750 (4*. Q^d.) reas only, while its value, if
received from the Portuguese, is estimated at
800 reas, or 4*. 6d. ; making a difference of
10 per cent loss to foreigners.

,S90
The Port charges in Brasil to each vessel of
whatever dimensions, except men-of-war,
or king's packets, are
IN PERNAMBUCCO AND BAHIA.

Pilotage entrance and departure
For entrance into, and departure
from, the ports
Anchorage, per diem
Patri Mor, or harbour master,
per diem
Linguister (total)
Six custom-house guards at' 3
patackas each per diem, eat
ing at their own cost while

Reas.

£¦ *•

d.

7,000

1 19

4"

4,000

1 2

6

2,000

0 11

3

1,000

0 5

n

2,000

0 11

3

'on board . . . . 5,760

1

12

5

Guard de Mor, of tobaoco, total 3,200

0

18

0

Ditto of Alfandego, or custom

house  1,280

0

7

2

Forming a total first expence of 17,480

4

18

4

Additional daily one . . 8,760

2

9

3|

EXPENCES IN RIO JANEIRO

Entrance and exit, including pi- Reas.
£.
s.
d.
lotage  25,600
7
4
0
Linguister, daily . . . 1,000
0
5
71
Anchorage, ditto . _ . 1,000
0
5
¦71
Two guards, ditto . . . 1,920
0
10
9i
First expence . 25,600
7
4
0
Daily one . . 3,920
1
2
oi
• 291 "
These charges are enormous, but they must
be paid. I have recorded an instance in which
a captain Isbister, after a great deal of trouble,
procured a patacka to be taken off from the
three daily paid to each guard ; but the
governor of Bahia afterwards declared that
there should not be a second instance of this
abatement ; and the original exaction was
again resorted too.
The payment of these, and other heavy
impositions*, have occasioned, between the
captains of vessels, and the authorities of the
place in which they have been at anchor,
frequent and very unhappy disputes.
Unfortunately for our commerce,no consuls,
residents, or even British merchants, are to
be met with in the whole coast of Brasil, to
decide and mitigate on these occasions: so
that the defenceless stranger is left entirely to
the insolence of office, and the peremptory
demands of a tyrannical government.
* Such as the duties, when permission existed, of sales'
to pay expences j vestorias or surveys of shipping, &c. &c.

292
About the year 1653, a treaty was entered
into between Oliver Cromwell and John the
Fourth, (ci-devant duke of Braganza,) then just
seated on the throne of Portugal, stipulating,
that they should mutually assist each other
against the Dutch, and particularly attempt
their expulsion from the Brasilian colonies;
and, among some other clauses, it was further
agreed, that the British nation should be,
allowed to send four consuls or residents to
the Brasils, for the protection and furtherance
of such British vessels as might touch in that
colony *. The power given by this clause was
however never carried into effect; and though
the privilege still exists, through disuse it is
become obsolete.
The labour of workmen, as well as timber,
and other articles, for the repair of shipping,
are much cheaper in Bahia and Pernambucco
than Rio Janeiro ; but at present it is with

* I am indebted for this fact to J. Warr, esq. consul ia
Oporto.

293
great difficulty that permission can be obtained
for repair, and in no cases but those of evident
and absolute necessity. Application, for the
purpose must always be made to the intendant .
of marine, in the port; who will sometimes ap
point a survey, (distinct from the visit,) and
order the necessary work to be done from the
royal dock-yards. This I would advise every
captain, if possible, to elude, and obtain leave
to have private ship-builders, who will dispatch
the business with much greater speed, and at
half the expence. The caulking in Brasil is
excelled in no part of the world. The Brasili-
, ans use for their own ships a fine fibrous bark,
which they say resists decay, and is superior
to oakum.
I cannot too strongly recommend to all
captains, pursers, and private individuals, to
transact their affairs themselves, and trust as
little as possible to the linguists and others,
in their purchases, &c. who are sure to make
them more or less their prey.
I shall conclude my work with a correct

294
table of the latitudes and longitudes of the
Brasilian ports, from the line to the river Plate
inclusively. I have obtained these from accu
rate Portuguese manuscript charts, after a new
survey; and they are the more necessary, as in
general our charts of the coast, and tables of
latitude and longitude, are very defective.

TABLE of LATITUDE and LONGITUDE.

City of Belim, on the river
Grao Para, or Amazons
Point of Tegioca
Villa Cahete .
Isle of St. John Evangelist
Island Maranhao
Rio Parnaiba .
Siera 
Cape San Rocque .
Rio Grande
Barra do Paraiba de Nord
City Olinda
Recife, or port of Olinda and
Pernambucco
Cape San Augustine
Port and villa Alagoas .
Rio San Francisco do Nord
Rio Real ....
Bahia, or San Salvadore .
Morro de San Paul .

I). M.

s.

D.

M.

s.

1 30

0 S.

48

30

0

o 27

0 .

48

8

0

0 36

0 .

46

50

0

i 17

o .

44

14

0

.2 32

0 .

43

40

0

2 40

0 .

41

20

0

3 31

o .

38

23

o

•5 7

o .

36

15

0

5 17

0 .

3G

5

a

6 40

0 .

35

30

0

8 2

0 .

35

15

o

8 14

0 .

35

15

o

8 26

0 .

35

15

0

9 55

0 .

36 41

0

10 58

o .

37

0

0

11 38

0 .

37 40

3

13 0

0 .

39

25

0

13 30

0 .

39

55

o

295'

> D. M.

s.

D. M.

s.

Punfa dos Castellianos

. 14 0

0 .

40 0

0

Os Ilheos, or the Isles

. 14 45

0 .

40 7

0

Porto Seguro .

. 16 40

0 .

40 12

0

Rio Carevellos .

. 18 0

0 .

40 22

0

Banks of the Abrolhos

. 18 0

0 .

38 50

0

. ¦ 19 33

0 .

40 26

0

Espirito Santo .

. 20 13

0 .

40 30

0

Paraiba do Sul or Campo

s . 21 37

0 .

40 38

0

Cape San Thome

. 21 51

0 .

40 4g

0

0 .
41 35
0
Rio de Janeiro
. 22 54
10 .
42 39
45
Ilha Grande
. 23 22
0 .
43 SO
O
Ilha de St. Sebastian
. 23 45
0 .
44 28
0
0 .
45 16
0
0 .
46 0
0
o .
47 7
0
0 .
47 39
0
Rio San Francisco de Su
. 26 0
0 .
47 42
0
Enseadas do Garoupas
. 27 10
0 .
47 47
0
Island Santa Catherina
. 27 40
N.P
o ,
s.p'
.47 36
.47 43
00
Rio do Lagpa or Grande
. 28 46
0 .
47 46
0
Ararangua
• 29 11
0 .
48 5
0
Immediate north point oi
river
Plato or Purita de Este ;
also
• entrance into Maldana
do 34 57
30 .
54 43
30
Island of Lobos
. 35 1
E.P
°W.P
.54 31
'.54 35
30 0
„,.,„, f North
Knelish Bank 1 „
5 1 South
Point 35 10
Point 35 13
OE.P'
30W.P
¦ 55 40 45
'.55 46 15
Monte Video
. 34 55
0 .
56 4
0
296*

D. M.

s.

D. M. £,

Buenos Ayres . . . . 34 37

0

. 58 13 0

South point of the river, or

San. Anthony . . . 36 23

0 .

, 56 32 30

I had an opportunity of judgingof the exact
ness of several of these latitudes and longitudes
by means of sundry lunar observations, &c.
and I found them perfectly true. The city
of Belim has been almost universally laid
down wrong; and an imaginary river marked
in several of our maps and charts, to the east
ward of the river of the Amazons, under the
name of Para ; when in reality it is one and
the same with the river Amazons, Para being
the native name of it.
Lastly, I must observe, for the benefit
of the inexperienced navigator, that from
Cape Augustin the wind blows for nine
months of the year chiefly northeasterly in
the morning, and northwesterly during the
evening and night : this continues gradually
changing along the coast, till at Rio Janeiro,
and the river Plate, it becomes a regular land-

297
¦V
breeze fromevening till morning, and through
out the day the reverse. During the three
stormy months, that is from the end of Feb.
to that of May, the wind is generally southerly,
blowing very fresh and squally at times from
the southwest.
A strong current runs southward from
Cape Augustin, commencing about the middle
of October, and continuing till January ; after
which there is no particular current till the
middle of April, when a powerful one sets in
northerly till July, and then subsides in like
manner.

Copy of an order from the governor-general
of Bahia, for the imprisonment of myself and
wife. " O Capm do Forteleza do Mar, Joze Joa-
" quin- Velozo; receibera debaixo de prizao, o
" Thomaz Lindley, ea sua mulher ; oz quaes
" conservara na mesma prizao, com toda e
x

098
" caujtela e vigilancia, do fim de se nao com-
• f
" municarem com pessoa alguma ficanda na
" inteliigencia, de . que, oz nao soltera della,
" sem pos^itiva ordem minha por escrito.
" Bahia, 28 de Septembro, 1302.
(Asignado) « F. C. M."
Translation. —
" Captain Joze Joaquin Velozo, of the Sea-
" Fort, you are to receive in the dungeons of
"the prison, Thomas Lindley and his wife;
" whom you are to guard in the same prison
" with all caution and vigilance, taking care
" that they communicate with no person, nor
" receive any intelligence, nor depart thence,
" without my positive written order. Bahia,
" 28 September^ 1802. (Signed) " F. C. M. *"
* Or Francisco de Cunha Menezes. It is every-where
the custom in Brasil for all public authorities to sign with
initials, only.

1 1 N I S.

T DAVISON, Whitt-fiiars.

ERRATA.
8, line 7, for seisure, read seizure.
35, line 20, for Saarn, read Sarna.
42, line 1 8, for fort de Mar, read do Mar.
52, line 2, for Haporica, read Itaporica.
52, in note, line 2, for Maahuim, read Matuim.
7Q, line 6, for Coriente, read Cariente.
107, Hne 4, for potack, read patacka.
112, line 15, for Francis, read Francisco.
135, line 15, for his, read her.
289, ft,ies 7 and 10, for is, read are equal to.
2S9, Zifle 11, ybr patack, read patacka.
295, Zwe 24, for Plato, read Plate.
JOS, i» wore, /we 1, /or de, read da,

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