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YALE UNIVERSITY
LIBRARY

From the Library of
WILLL\M M. ODOM

ITALY
IN THE NINETEENTH CENTUUY.

VOL. III.

LONDON :
R. CLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.

AEdlSXiAHBIEm fflAMSOHI.

ITALY

IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY.

BY JAMBS WHITESIDE, ESQ.
A.M., M.R.LA.,
ONE OP HEK UAJESTY's COUNSEL.

IN THREE VOLUMES.
VOL. III.

SECOND EDITION,
REVISED.

LONDON:
RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET.
IPublisSer in ©rltinare to ?^er fHajestg.
1849.

CONTENTS

THE THIRD VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.
Naples.— The Chiaja. — The ViUa 'Reale. — .4 Walk along
the Shores of the Bay. — Strada di Toledo. — A Neapolitan
Duke. — Neapolitans and Romans contrasted. — Out-of-
doors Existence in Naples. — Lazzaroni Life. — The Monk
and the Puppets. — Particulars of Neapolitan Economy. —
Character of the People. — Ancient Neapolis compared
with Modern Naples. — Classical Recollections

CHAPTER II.
NAPLES.
The Climate. — Its Uncertainties. — Excursion to Poz
zuoli. — The Lake of Agnano. — Virgil's Tomb. — The
Phlegrjean Fields. — Volcanic Forraation of Monte Nuovo.
— Baise and its historical Associations. — Islands of Procida
and Ischia. . . . . . .12
CHAPTER III.
EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES.
The Royal Museura. — Pompeii and Herculaneum . . 29
A3

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IV. PAGE
Ascent of Vesuvius.— The Appearance of the Volcano
from Naples.— Ride through Fields of Lava to the Her
mitage.— The Lazzaroni Chairmen.— Ascent over Volcanic
Ashes.— Base of the Cone. — Experiraents in the Molten
Lava. — Eruptions. — Projectile Power of the Volcano. —
Changes in the Size and Formation of Vesurius. — A
certain Mode of checking an Eruption.— Sir William
Hamilton's Theory of the Origin and Growth of Volcanic
Mountains. . . . . • .44

CHAPTER V.
EXCURSION.
Stabiae, Modem CasteUamare. — Sorrento, and the sur
rounding country described. — Capri and the Blue Cave. . 53
CHAPTER VI.
Excursion by Nocera to La Cava. — The Convent de
scribed. — Salerno, its School of Surgery. — The Temples of
Psestum. — Amalfi and the Pandects. — Conclusion. . 59
CHAPTER VII.
Disclosures of a Neapolitan Advocate. — The Crirainal .
Code. — Courts of Law and Administration of Justice in
Naples. — Ear-wigging the Judges. — MoraUty. — Crime,
and Lawyers. — The Priests and their Practices. — Is a
Reformation in the Church necessary at Naples ? — Reve
lations of a Neapolitan Nobleman. — The Tofana Poison. —
The Superstition of the Evil Eye — account thereof. —
Miracle of St. Januarius. — Rejigious Toleration exempli
fied in the Narrative of Facts relative to the Opening of
the English Church. — Reflections. . . . .69

CONTENTS. vil

CHAPTER VIII.

The Agriculture round Naples ; with a Short Account
of its Benevolent Institutions. — Expenses of Living. —
Brief Remarks on the Principle of the fapal Government,
viewed as a PoUtical System, suggested by the Death of
Pope Gregory. — The obsequies of Gregory XVI. — The
Electionof Pius IX. . . . . .97

CHAPTER IX.
Genova la Superba. — Dr. Arnold's eloquent Descrip
tion. — The Harbour and the Heights. — CUmate. — Aspect
of People. — Priests and Monks. — The Scientific Congress.
—An ItaUan ParUament. — Regeneration of Italy now
probable. — The Formation of an Italian Empire contem
plated. — The Uterary Men of Italy. — Writings of Manzoni ;
their Tendency favourable to the ItaUan Character; his
Poetry; Translations.— Rosetti's proscribed Ode. — PoU
tical Views of the principal Literary Men in Italy. —
Ambitious Projects of Charles Albert. . . .111
CHAPTER X.
Criminal Code of Genoa.— Turin, &c. — Punishments. —
Their Classification and Character. — Prescription in certain
Cases — its Law of Toleration. — Knavish Lawyers, how
restrained. — PoUtical Offences, how repressed. — False
Testimony, how punished. — DueUing, how dealt with. —
Forms of Procedure. — Workiug of this Code. — MoraUty
ofthe People. . . . . . .140
CHAPTER XI,
Retum to Rorae. — Enthusiasm of the People, and why. —
The Pope and his Popularity. — All Saints' Day. — Taking
Possession by Pius IX. in the Lateran. — Description of

vm CONTENTS. PAGE
the same Ceremony, with Reflections.— An Evening's
Conversation. — Education of the People. — Gizzi's Circular.
— Education of the Clergy. — Prospects of Reform. — Pio
Nono; his Genealogy, History, Election, and present
Position briefly touched on. . . • .147
CHAPTER XII.
Christmas in Rome.— The Pififerari Shepherds. — A
Church Service by Night in Santa Maria Maggiore. — The
Pope and the Holy Cradle, — St. Peter's on Christmas-day.
— Reflections. — Conversation with a Priest. — Absolution
explained. — Exhibition of the Presepio. — A Procession. —
Jesuits' Church. — High Mass in a Greek Church. — History
of a Nun. — A domestic Story. — Ceremony of taking the
Veil described. — Observations on the Monastic System. —
Inundation of the City. — Exertions in ReUef of the Irish
Famine. — Sympathy of Pius IX. — Padre Ventura again. —
His Sketch of the Irish People. — Priests fi-om Ireland in '
Rome. — Fate ofDr. Keenan. — The Carnival. — Its Deriva
tion traced. — The Ceremonies on Ash-Wednesday. —
Interview with Pius IX. — His Appearance, Manner, and '
Conversation. — His Character and Conduct considered in
a two-fold Aspect : as a Political Reformer, and as an
Ecclesiastical Sovereign. — Review of his Acts as a
PoUtician. ....... 160

CHAPTER XIII.
Pius IX. visits the Palazzo Massimo. — Astounding
Miracle of St. FiUppo Neri. — Reflections. — A Book of
Miracles.— The DiscipUne of Flogging still practised in
the Church, as described by Sir John Hobhouse. — Magni
ficent Ceremonies of Easter. — Office of Tenebrse described.
— The Pope and Cardinals in the Sistine Chapel. — Michael
Angelo's Fresco of the Last Judgment. — Impression pro
duced by the Miserere. — Easter Sunday in St. Peter's. 

CONTENTS. IX
PAGE
The Papal Benediction. — Service same Day in Protestant
Church. — A Comparison. — How did the Primitive Chris
tians worsliip ? — Dr. Newman a Disciple of FiUppo Neri.
— What System wiU he substitute for the Church of
Eugland? — The Oxford Movement dangerousto the Con
stitution in Church and State. — Concluding Spectacles of
Easter. — niumination of St. Peter's. — The Girandola.—
A Drive through Rome at Midnight. — Colosseum by
MoonUght. — Meditations. — An Opinion of Mr. Laing's
disputed. — Has the Clock of Ages sounded a Reconcili
ation? Not yet! . . . . . .190
CHAPTER XIV.
Benevolent Institutions of Rome. — Pauperism.— Mo
raUty of People. — Madhouses and Prisons. . . 208
CHAPTER XV.
Free-trade in Rome. — Mr. Cobden. — Character of ihe
Aristocracy. — Triumph of the Press. — Suspicions of Gizzi.
— Conspiracies begin. — The People and the Cardinals.—
Reforms demanded. — The Edict of Api-il. — Political Din
ner. — AzegUo's Speech. — Projects of the Patriots on the
Death of Gregory XVI. — A poUtical Sketch of Pope Pius
and his Family. — Expulsion of the Austrians, and Re
settlement of Italy long projected. — Conduct and Designs
of Charles Albert of Sardinia. . . . .216
CHAPTER XVI.
ItaUan Crime. — Love and Murder.- — A Criminal Process
in the Roman Law. — A Trial and capital Conviction in
Rome. — The Judges, the Law, and the Lawyers. — Amount
of Crime in the Papal States. — A Curiosity in the form of
a poUtical Process. . . . , - . 228
CHAPTER XVII.
The Gems of Rome . . . . .244

X CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XVIII.
EXCURSION TO VEII. PAGE
The Flaminian and Cassian Way. — Situation of Veii. —
Walk across the Campagna. — ItaUan Cultivation. —
Wretched Condition of the People in this District. — The
Etruscan Tomb of Veii, its Formation and Contents;
Discoverer, the Cavaliere Campana . . • 266
CHAPTER XIX.
EXCURSIONS AROUND ROME.
The Appian Way. — Sepulchre of Scipio. — Circus of Ro
mulus. — Tomb of CeciUa MeteUa.— Tomb ofthe Servilu. —
Ancient Grandeur of the Appian and the Great Roads
from Rome. — Fountain of Egeria. — Temple of Bacchus. —
Temple of the God Redicuhis. — Return by the Porta Maria
Maggiore. — A parting Word on the Baker's Tomb. . 271
CHAPTER XX.
EXCURSIONS AROUND ROME.
The Protestant Burial-ground. — Pyramid of Caius
Cestius. — Porta San Paolo. — The Tiber. — BasiUca of St.
Paul. — Return by Porta Giovanni. — Concluding Reflections
on the Character of St. Paul. .... 277
CHAPTER XXI.
EXCURSIONS IN SPRING.
The Campagna of Rome. — Frascati, and its Villas. —
Tusculum. — Classic RecoUections. — Lake RegiUus. —
Marino. — Alba Longa. — Castel Gandolfo. — Lake of Nemi.
— Temple of Diana. — Genzano Aricia. — Alban Lake, by
Sunset. — Italian Fair at Grotto Ferrata. — Description oi
a Capanna in the Campagna. — Wages and Mode of Ex
istence of the Herdsman. — A Roman Farm on a grand
Scale, described by De Tournon. — Reflections. . . 285

CONTENTS. XI
CHAPTER XXII. PAGE
Excursion by Hadrian's Villa to Tivoli, and thence to
the Sabine Farm of Horace. — Objects of the raost Interest
on this Route described. — The Etruscan Torabs of Tar
quinii. ....... 296
CHAPTER XXIII.
POLITICAL EVENTS OF ITALY.
The Conspiracy. ... .309
CHAPTER XXIV.
POLITICAL EVENTS OF ITALY — continued.
Character of Pius IX. developed. . . .316
CHAPTER XXV.
Conclusion of Political Events in Italy. . 328

Recent Events in Italy (Second Edition). . 337

APPENDIX.
Journal of the Weather. .... 343

ITALY
IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY.

CHAPTER I.

Naples.— The Chiaja.— The Villa Eeale.— A Walk along the Shores
of the Bay.— Stiada di Toledo.— A Neapolitan Duke.— NeapoU-
tans and Romans contrasted. — Oat-of-doors Existence in Naples. —
Lazzaroni Life. — The Monk and the Puppets. — Particulais of
Neapolitan Economy.— Character of the People. — Ancient Nea-
poUs compared with Modem Naples. — Classical SecoUections.

"Un pezzo di cielo caduto in terra."
Let no man be induced to fix his residence elsewhere
in Naples than on the Chiaja. If tempted with the
dismal streets in the interior ofthe city, bright summer
is exchanged for gloomy winter ; while in our hotel
the sun shone so brilhantly, that we resolved to stay
in the quarter where we should be warmed and
cheered by his beams. The Chiaja is, I presume, as
a promenade, or street, or public walk, unequalled in
the world. It stretches in nearly a straight line along
the beautiful shore of the Bay of Naples ; the street
is handsome and spacious, and adorned with palaces ;
it is flagged all across with lava, except a wide horse-
VOL. m. B

2 THE CHIAJA  VILLA HEALE.
path on the side opposite to the houses. There are
no houses on tbe side next the sea, and thus the view
of the bay is uninterrupted. By the edge of that
bay, between the pavement of the Chiaja and the sea,
is constructed the celebrated promenade, called the
Villa Reale, running from one extremity to the other
of the Chiaja; it is nearly a mile in length, railed in
from the streets ; the walks are wide and pleasant ;
there is a grateful shade from every variety of tree
suitable to the climate, more especially the Ilex ;
there are fountains to refresh the air, with statues and
temples to adorn this delightful promenade.
A very low broad wall separates the gatdens from
the shore, along which we may walk, gazing at the
smoking Vesuvius, or the sunny waters, at the col-j
lected beauties of a bay which has no equal on earth.
There is a little mole, which projects into the sea
near the end of the walk, provided with seats judi
ciously placed so as to command the best view of the
beautiful objects I have endeavoured to describe.
This is the favourite lounge of the Neapolitans ; the
lazzaroni and beggars are excluded by guards placed
at every gate ; those who are too lazy to walk, drive
up and down the Chiaja at the fashionable hour, so
that this quarter of the modern city presents a con
stant scene of gaiety and animation. The interior of
this crowded metropolis boasts of one grand street
the Strada di Toledo, running from the shore in a
straight line to the north; it is an English mile-and-
half long, is regular, broad, paved, the houses on either
side being lofty and massive, and having flat roofs.
This is the street of business, and has an imposing
effect in the eye of a foreigner.
There are several piazze ; one spacious and impos-

BAY OF NAPLES. 3
ing, hefore the king's palace, the others more curious
and strange, from the manners, behaviour, and amuse
ments of the people always assembled in them, than
from their construction. With respect to the rest of
the streets in the city, they are straight, certainly,
but in general narrow, and without the least archi
tectural beauty, or even design: they are always
cheerless; when it rains, filthy and almost impassable.
Let the invalid, therefore, keep to the Chiaja; and
the active tourist, who wishes to make the most of
his time, will explore the shores of the bay, which,
for an extent of twenty miles, present a surprising
succession of novel and interesting objects, including
Herculaneum, Pompeii, and the most astonishing
phenomena in nature.
Standing on the beach, we perceive that Naples
lies at the bottom of an amphitheatre, the buildings
extending along the shore in a circular form for a
space of five miles. The bay is thirty miles in dia
meter ; two promontories, Sorrento to the south, and
Cape Miseno to the north, terminate the bay, which
is sheltered by a noble range of mountains, covered
with vineyards and luxuriant vegetation. The
breadth of the entrance is about five leagues; it is
distinguished on the north by the islands of Ischia and
Procida, and towards the south-east by the celebr'-^'jg^
Isle of Capri. This last prodigious cliflf; '^^'jiidi jg
about four miles from the point of the Promontory of
Sorrento, lies parallel to the mouth of the bay, and
in some measure protects it.
There lie on our right, concealed from view by
Posilippo, the picturesn^'ae isle of Nisida and the bay
of Baise ; while on Our left Sorrento separates us from
another beautiful bay, that of Salerno. Projecting
B 2

4 VIEW OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY.
into the water near the harbour, is the fort of Castel
deir Uovo, a picturesque-looking object ; beyond this
fort is the mole, where all the loungers, idlers,
fiddlers, and lazzaroni of Naples may be met. If we
prolong our walk from the mole by the shore, turning
from the fort called Del Carmine, we arrive at the
market-place, where Massaniello began the insur
rection which made him master of Naples. Vesuvius,
with its double summit and fiery volcano, and the
various towns, and villages, and vineyards between us
and it, fill up our view. We remember the fearful
history of volcanoes and earthquakes in this place,
and strive to catch a view of the sites where cities
once stood, and which, by a terrible convulsion of
nature, were overwhelmed in the pride of luxury.
The lofty rock overhanging the city on the north, is
crowned by the fort of Saint Elmo, and close to it is
a very interesting Carthusian convent, which no
woman must enter. One of the finest views of Naples
and of the bay is from this spot. We may fear
being distracted by the variety and novelty of the
objects to be examined, hut one advantage is, that
sight-seeing within the city may be happily ex
changed for wholesome excursions to the islands we
have described, and the famous places in the surround
ing country.
Before we set out, however, let us glance at the
people and their habits, more interesting to some
than the brightest scenes in nature, or the choicest
works of art. Housed in the Chiaja in a ducal
palace, I was not a little entertained at making my
contract with a veritable Neapolitan Duke, wedded
to a relative ofthe unfortunate Murat, and of ancient
Spanish descent. His Grace drew up a very long

A NEAPOLITAN DUKE. 5
paper of twenty clauses for me to sign. If the
windows were blown in by a storm, I was bound to
replace them ; and should any of my family die of
consumption, the furniture was to be burned and
replaced by new : — this last clause is sanctioned by
law. The Neapolitans believe that the complaint of
which the English so often die (consumption) is in
fectious ; therefore they enforce the rule of burning
all the furniture in the apartment where the death
has happened, I got an insight at once into the
habits and condition of the nobility, so called, in
Naples. The old feudal law was not, after the
expulsion of the French, restored here as it was in
Rome, where the rules of primogeniture still prevail.
Almost all the estates in Naples have been split up,
and most of the nobility are poor ; but, having pre
served their palaces, many of them derive a large
income by the somewhat undignified practice of letting
out in compartments to English families the greater
part of the palace, they living in an obscure corner.
His Grace of  occupies the ground floor on each
side of the porch, while the whole of the building,
up to the very top, is let out in the way I have
mentioned. It is to us somewhat unusual to see an
old man exhibit all the liveliness of youth : in Paris
and Naples the old men are as brisk as the young.
The Duke, when he had secured his tenant, indulged
in all the amusements of Naples, — but he had pecu
liar tastes ; in his small saloon he had six canaries
and a few handsome cats, a case of books, from which
he one day drew forth to me in triumph a French
translation of Shakspeare, in order to prove his
acquaintance with English literature. He kept a
stock of Httle dogs, some of which he occasionally

6 HABITS OF THE NEAPOLITANS.
sold at a profit, and he had several pet rabbits in the
court yard. His daughter, whom he occasionally
visited, had her apartments on the opposite side of
the porch. Sometimes the porter and messenger
were dressed in gaudy liveries, and appeared on a
family coach, in which the Duke visited the King,
and then capered up and down the Chiaja in holiday
splendour. From what I could ascertain, five or six
hundred a-year of our money would be a handsome
fortune for a Neapolitan nobleman. Some few have
still considerable incomes.
As regards the people, they are in all respects the
reverse of the Romans, in look, manner, dress, dispo
sition, and civilization; insomuch that it is difficult
to believe them to belong to the same country ; an
union between races so different would seem to be
impossible. The Romans are quiet in their streets,
almost gloomy, naturally grave and serious ; the
Neapolitans are like a crew of Bacchanalians without
their drunkenness, — in perpetual revelry. Naples
seems ever in a carnival : it is scarcely possible to
suppose that the people we behold appear in their real
characters ; the business of life is turned into amasque-
rade. The glorious climate in which they live may
have much influence on the habits of the people — their
corrupt government, more. Populous as Naples is,
to a stranger it appears to possess a population
exceeding that of London, for this reason — the whole
mass of the population, man, woman, and child, rush
with one consent into the streets in the morning, and
continue there, shouting, grinning, dancing, or at
their trades or occupations, till night. Little real
business, all the while, is done. Naples, for its size
and importance, has less trade than any such city in

THE LAZZARONI. 7
the world. The people supply the want of business
by noise and clamour.
Their dwellings are cheerless and wretched ; when,
therefore, the bright sun shines in the morning, they
pour down from their lanes and narrow streets into
the broad Piazza, or Chiaja, or the Mole. The men
do any little work they get ; the women bring their
chairs and sit down and knit, or sew, or wash, or
cleanse their hair in the streets ;* while the juvenile
lazzaroni, of whom I have reckoned one huridred in
a short distance, tumble about in the dust, or roll an
orange from one sewer to another — or, if on the
shore, will dive for a farthing ; and thus their intel
lectual day passes, not omitting their enjoyment of
the animating exhibition of Pulcinella, a spectacle
to be seen in all parts of Naples, and announced by
a national air highly musical. The lazzaroni,^ in
which term I include fishermen, porters, messengers,
&c. are, physically, a fine race of fellows ; they seem
as if preparing to go to bed, pursuing their occupa
tions in linen drawers and a nightcap ; they disdain
shoes or stockings. Their gait is an amble, between
a walk and a run, and they are equally ready for
playing or fighting. I really believe their felicity
would be complete, with maccaroni and Pulcinella.
Punch is a very important personage in Naples ; he
dresses up and retails the drolleries of the day, he is
the channel of the passing opinions, and could gain
a mob or keep the whole kingdom in good humour.
The fishermen who drag their nets at the end of the
Villa Reale (dressed as described) will suddenly drop
* Sunday is the favourite moming for this operation; 1 have
aometimes seen three or four young women seated one behind the
other engaged in this interfisting occupation.

8 PICTURE OF STREET X.IFE.
their rather profitless business, (the fish is small and
scanty,) seat themselves on the beach, and play with
dirty cards; their gravity during this sport being
more ludicrous than their merriment. An exact
picture of street life in Naples is contained in this
graphic passage from the Improvisatore : —
" Close beside this stood a little puppet theatre, and a
still smaller one was erected before it, where Punchinello
made his merry leaps, peeped, twirled himself about, and
made his funny speeches. All round was laughter. Only
very few paid attention to the monk who stood at the
opposite comer and preached from one of the projecting
steps. An old broad- shouldered fellow, who looked like a
sailor, held the cross, on which was the picture of the
Redeemer. The monk cast flaming glances at the wooden
theatre of the puppets, which drew the attention of the
people away from his speech. ' Is this Lent ? ' I heard him
say, ' is this the time consecrated to Heaven ? the time in
which we should humble in the flesh — wander in sackcloth
and in ashes t Carnival time is it ? Carnival always, night
and day, year out and year in, till you post down into the
depths of hell ! There you can twirl, there you can grin,
ean dance, and keep festive, in the eternal pool and torment
of hell.' His voice raised itself more and more. The soft
Neapolitan dialect rang in my ear like swaying verse, and
the words melted melodiously one into another ; but all
the more his voice ascended, ascended also that of Punchi
nello, and he leaped all the more comically, and was all the
more applauded by the people. Then the monk in a holj^
rage snatched the cross from the hand of the man who bore
it, rushed forward with it, and exhibiting the crucifix, ex
claimed, ' See, here is the true Punchinello ! him shall you
see, him shall you hear, for that you shall have eyes and
ears, " Kyrie Eleison !" ' And, impressed by the holy sign,
the whole crowd dropped upon their knees, and exclaimed

NEAPOLITAN ECONOMY. 9
in one voice, ' Kyrie Eleison !' Even the puppet-player let
fall his Punchinello."
I may add some particulars of daily life. The
cows are driven to the doors in th(; morning to be
milked ; nobody would believe he got milk, otherwise.
Herds of goats with bells are also twice every day
driven into the city for the like purpose, while the
national conveyance {curricula) flies along the Chiaja,
with a dozen people hanging on and around and
behind it, all so balanced that one horse can draw it
and gallop. No filth remains in the streets, for,
unlike the Romans, the Neapolitan gardeners employ
lazzaroni to go about with asses, loaded with two
deep pockets of strong matting at each side, into
which they pack daily the offal of the city : they thus
scour the streets effectually. There is gas, but it
escapes ; there are sewers, but they have no fall, nor
water : being open to the bay, when the wind blows
from the south-east, they are to some extent washed
out ; otherwise, as there are no tides, the consequences
are not agreeable. There are volumes of dust, never
laid with water, and raised sometimes by sweeping.
It results, that the higher your apartment is, the bet
ter, as well to escape these annoyances, and the un
ceasing noise, as to secure the view.
I conceived a repugnance to the Neapolitan people
which I could not overcome : their savage appearance,
wild behaviour, incessant uproar, gross ignorance and
superstition, disgust a stranger ; while to an invalid
the din of Naples is intolerable. A man may oc
casionally smile at the amusing follies of a light-
hearted people, but it is not possible to behold the
utter degradation of his fellow-creatures, and preserve
a permanently cheerful spirit. B 3

10 NEAPOLITAN MORALS.
Possibly the Neapolitans are not more wicked than
the inhabitants of other parts of Italy ; they are un
questionably more uncivilized, more addicted to
crime, and there is an utter want of dignity in the
mass of the nation, which may be taken as decisive
evidence of moral degradation.
For this mournful condition of the people, the
abominable government which has so long oppressed
and corrupted them, has much to answer.
It might be entertaining to compare for a moment
ancient Neapolis with the modern city ; the contrast
is extraordinary. Naples was called originally Par-
thenope, from a syren of that name who was buried
there. The Athenians having fixed a colony here,
it was called a Greek city, and the name changed
to Neapolis. It became one of the most favourite
retreats of the luxurious Romans, both because it
preserved the manners, and, it may be supposed, the
language of a Grecian colony, and because here they
could escape the noise, and bustle, and business of
Rome ; accordmgly, it has been praised by the poets,
and selected as a calm retreat, congenial to senti
mental minds. Horace refers to it —
" Et otiosa credidit Neapolis ! "
Virgil chose it as his residence, no doubt wisely.
Statius sings the praises of Parthenope to his wife
Claudia. "Has ego te sedes 
 transferre laboro :
t^uas et mollis hiems, et frigida temperat gestas •
Quas imbelle fretum torpentibus alluit undis.
Pax secura locis, et desidis otia yitse,
Et nunquam tnrbata qulea, somnlque peraeti.
Nulla foro rabies, aut strictiE jurgia legis
Morumjura viris; solum, et sine fascibus eequum."

BOOK OF CAPRI. 11
We may, however, infer from Tacitus, that Nea
polis became corrupt, (although it may not have been
noisy,) in the time of Nero : that monster retired
thither after his most atrocious crime, and at the be
ginning of his theatrical career. When he thirsted
for theatrical fame, and feared to expose himself in
Rome, he selected Neapolis as a suitable place for
the display of his vile talents.
That the Neapolitans would flock to behold a
second Nero fiddle, I cannot question, as I have seen
the mob in ecstasies at kingly gambols in the carnival.
Virgil, however, would not be likely to select modern
Naples as the tranquil and fitting abode for a delight
ful poet. Nor can we behold the lofty rock of Capri
without a shudder.
" Who has not heard of Caprese's gailty shore,
Polluted by the rank old Emperor ] "
From the fourth and sixth books of Tacitus, we
learn that the gloomy tyrant, Tiberius, chose Capri as
his retreat, when business, the people, senate, Rome,
and virtue itself, had become odious to his depraved
mind. The climate attracted him, the beautiful
landscapes (spoiled, however, by the eruptions of
Vesuvius) pleased the monster. Capri was then
covered with the luxurious villas of the tyrant, which
were afterwards demolished by the indignant Romans ;
and it would be well for the honour of human nature,
if the memory of Tiberius could be effaced from the
page of history.

12 NAPLES.

CHAPTER II.
NAPLES.
The Climate.— Its Uncertainties. — Excursion to Pozzuoli.— The
Lake of Agnano.- Virgil's Tomb.— The Phlegraean Fields.— Vol
canic Formation of Monte Nuovo. — Bai« and its Historical Asso
ciations. — Islands of Procida aud Ischia.
To awaken every morning and behold the sun shining
in a brilliant sky, and all nature gay, is most animating
to the invalid. You are cheated into the belief that it
is summer : an English January is not understood
here. Fragrant violets and fresh flowers are offered
for sale at every corner ; the orange trees, presenting
their tempting fruit, persuade one to believe that
grim winter has no power in this favoured region.
Then, the people, lightly clad, buzzing about and
basking in the sun, and the shops adorned with
flowers and filled with fruit, induce the stranger to
suppose there is in Naples a perpetual /e^e.
But, if the climate be brilliant, it is uncertain and
deceptive. Allured by appearances, I drove about in
an open carriage, safe enough on the Chiaja; but
quitting this sunny region and passing the Tufa rock
(the Chiatemone,) which, projecting forward, screens
the Villa Reale from the chilling blasts sweeping
down from the lower range of Vesuvius, now covered
with snow, I encountered a wind which blew keenly
while the sun shone brightly, and the consequence

LAKE OF AGNANO. 13
was a sudden chill followed by a severe cold, which
checked my rapture and reduced my strength. Alter
nately well and ill in Naples, I concluded, that when
ever Rome suits, Naples disagrees with the invalid,
and I was induced to visit, at an earlier period ofthe
season than usual, the islands in the bay, and the places
of most interest in this matchless neighbourhood.
Let us roam over the once famous and flourishing
district to the west of Naples, known by the name
of the Phlegraean Fields. The drive up the Strada
Nuovo, a continuation of the Chiaja, begun by the
unfortunate Murat, and now completed — stretching
along the bay and ascending the mountain towards
Pozzuoli, is one of the most admired excursions. The
prospect of the bay, lined with white habitations for
miles glittering in the sun, and of the burning moun
tain, becomes, as you gain the higher elevation, more
commanding. At the distance of three miles, an
artificial cut, seven hundred feet in length, through
the mountain, is entered, whose extremity forms
Cape Coroglio. Having passed this cut, a noble pro
spect bursts upon the view : the cultivated valley of
Bagnoli, the Gulf of Puteolano, the hills rising
behind Pozzuoli, the rocky island of Nisida, coni
cally shaped, with fortified castle on its lofty sum
mit ; even Baiae in the distance.
This portion of the Bay, not visible from the city,
is only second to that of Naples, properly so called ;
and the best spot for the view is that whereon we have
been standing. It is then very delightful to descend
slowly on Naples, and enjoy the wonderful scene, —
ruined castles, luxurious villas, inthe most picturesque
situations, sometimes built on little promontories
jutting into the sea, and again seated on the moun-

14 THE dog's CAVE.
tain above your head; all the varieties in the scenery
even to Sorrento ; the eye being seldom long with
drawn from Vesuvius spurting forth smoke and fire,
not to be beheld without a sentiment of terror. We
may, however, agreeably diversify the route in
returning by the lake of Agnano, the Roman tunnel,
and Virgil's Tomb. The waters of this lake abound
in sulphur, and bubble up at the margin; it has the
singularity of being without any streams, either
entering in or issuing from it, but is kept in motion
by subterranean gases resembling the rise and fall of
tides in the sea.
In the neighbourhood, Lucullus and other luxu
rious Romans had magnificent villas for the sake of
baths, which the waters of the lake supplied. Nothing
now remains of these proud edifices but sub-struc
tures of bricks ; the country around is desolate.
There is in the vicinity of this lake a singular exca
vation, very ancient, called the Dog's Cave, in which a
disagreeable experiment is made for the pleasure of
heartless spectators. The door of the cave is un
locked, and the atmosphere being impregnated with
the vapour visible to the eye, but the nature of which
is not clearly ascertained, an Italian speculator, who
keeps dogs for the purpose, seizes an unfortunate
animal and thrusts it into the cave, till it becomes,
after a few convulsions, apparently lifeless ; then,
withdrawing the dog, flings it on the ground ; in the
fresh air the animal speedily recovers, and seems
littie the worse for the experiment. I saw a party
of Neapohtans going to enjoy this spectacle. The
owner of the dog dragged the reluctant animal by a
cord towards the cave. We turned aside in disgust.
The air in this cave will extinguish a light, and pre-

THE TOMB OF VIRGIL. 15
vent a pistol going off. Everything in this extra
ordinary region is out of the course of nature : and
places preferred by the Romans for purposes of health
and luxury are shunned by the moderns as unwhole
some and repulsive.
Returning by a different road, we entered the
tunnel bored by the Romans through the hill of
Posilippo, M-hich separated Naples from Pozzuoli, to
gain readier access to the latter city. This grotto,
as it is sometimes called, resembles a natural more
than an artificial passage under the hill, being the
third of a mile in length ; and although lofty, is
very dark. It is alarming to drive through it, for
carriages, horses, mules, goats, and all kinds of con
veyances going to and returning from the city, pass
and repass at the same time ; and the Neapolitans
keep up a continual shout, which, with the other
noises and the darkness, make it most disagreeable.
Just as you escape into the open air, you must stop
and scramble up a steep height, to reach what is
pointed out as Virgil's Tomb. Walking through a
vineyard, we arrived at what seemed a ruined mound,
overgrown with the green plants of the country.
This structure is not unlike the Roman tombs already
mentioned ; one chamber remains entire ; we de
scended into it, and mused over the poet, whose
works, composed near this spot, have been the delight
of every age. This chamber is stripped of eyery
vestige of ornament ; a sarcophagus doubtless stood
here, but has long since disappeared. That Virgil
was buried hereabouts need not be doubted. The
inscription which Virgil wrote, formerly placed on
the-tomb, and which may now be read on the adja
cent wall, is in these words : —

16 POZZUOLI.
"Mantua me genuit, Calabri rapuere, tenet nunc
Parthenope ; cecini pascua, rura, duces."
The expressions show that he was aware his ashes
would be removed to this place.
Another and very agreeable excursion may be
made to the modern Pozzuoli, the ancient Puteoli.
Prosecuting our drive from the extremity of the new
cut spoken of, we descend towards the shore, having
exactly opposite the curious Isle of Nisida, and the
Lazaretto. A perfect level, on which the road runs
by the sea, extends hence to Pozzuoli, which is dis
tant about five miles from Naples, and probably was
in ancient times the larger city of the two. It Hes
on the edge of a little promontory jutting into the
water, forming one extremity of the celebrated Bay
of Baiffi, a steep hill rising up behind it. The situ
ation is excellent, but the modern town has little to
recommend it to the notice of the traveller. What
was a flourishing seaport in Roman times, has now
decayed into a miserable fishing-place, overspread
with filth and poverty. The antiquities of the place
are the temple of Serapis, a ruin in good preservation,
attesting by its extent and magnificence the grandeur
of the original building. It was not discovered till
1750 ; it is said to have been then nearly entire, and
might, instead of being despoiled, have been easily
restored to its original state. Had the Government
possessed spirit and liberality enough to have so
restored this temple, it would have been one of the
most interesting monuments in Italy.
The Amphitheatre is in a surprising condition of
preservation, although ruined by an earthquake ; it
was capable of containing 45,000 persons, the most
convincing proof of the extent and splendour of the

VISIT OF ST. PAUL. 17
ancient Puteoli. The guide showed the site of
Cicero's villa. Unquestionably the orator seems to
have possessed a greater number of luxurious villas,
than suited the character of a temperate philosopher.
The modern church of St. Proculus, who suffered
martyrdom in the same year with the famous Ja
nuarius, is pointed out as the temple of Augustus.
To reach this temple we must ascend through narrow
streets, utterly abominable : the experienced sight
seer, provided with strong shoes and a smelling-
bottle, may persevere ; those who prefer fresh air and
the sea will find their way to what is called Caligula's
Mole. I must honestly admit that the approach to
the bridge is more offensive than even the ascent to
the church. When we reach the water's side, we see
stretching over towards Baise the remains of thirteen
piers out of twenty-five originally built, belonging to
Caligula's Mole. The ruins are plainly visible, stand
ing in the water which flows in between each pier.
Addison, and it seems correctly, insists that the
mole of Puteoli has been mistaken by several authors
for Caligula's Bridge. Possibly on the spot where
we are now standing, St. Paul landed ; we read in the
Acts, " And from thence we fetched a compass and
came to Rhegium ; and after one day the soutli wind
blew, and we came the next day to Puteoli." — What
more interesting than to trace the progress of the
mighty Apostle on his glorious mission, from this
place to the Eternal City ? Puteoli was an ancient
Greek city, famous for its justice, whence it was
called Dicaearchia : its name Puteoli was derived
from the numerous hot and cold springs with which
it abounded. The Romans saw its advantages for
commercial purposes, improved the harbour, and

18 POETICAL RECOLLECTIONS.
made it a great naval station. Tacitus, in his 14th
Book, speaks of it as then an ancient city, which
received new privileges, with the title of the Nero-
nian Colony. The same historian informs us, that
the monster Nero indulged in aquatic excursions
near Puteoli, which appears then to have been con
sidered the most delicious region in the world.
It seems, the earth around Puteoli had the peculiar
effect of hardening in the water, a quality which
made it most serviceable in the construction of a
mole, or any building whose foundations may have
been laid in the sea. So vehement was the passion
of the Romans for this now abandoned region, and
so valuable the ground, that they thrust the founda
tions of their villas into the sea, affording an oppor
tunity to Horace, in one of his elegant odes, to lash
the vices of his countrymen.
" But you, with thoughtless pride elate,
Unconscious of impending fate,
Command the pillar'd dome to rise,
When lo ! thy tomb forgotten lies.
" And though the waves indignant roar,
Forward you urge the Baian shore ;
While earth's too narrow bounds in vain
Thy guilty progress would restrain."
Virgil also alludes to the practice of casting masses
of rock into the sea, near the Baiae, in the lines —
" Qualis in Euboico Baiarum litore quondam
Saxea pila cadit, magnis quam molibus ante
Constructam ponto jaciunt."
February 19th and 20th.— Having exhausted the
space round Naples and Pozzuoli, we are prepared to
explore the extraordinary district which lies between
this place and Baise, and push across to the islands of

PROCIDA AND ISCHIA. 19
Procida and Ischia, which, from their situation and
singular appearance, invite a visit. The morning
had no resemblance to the bitter days of our un
genial spring ; the sun shone brightly in the heavens,
the waters of the bay sparkled under its beams, and
the air was soft and delicious. Our party consisted
of four persons — an English lady, the best companion
for such an excursion, ever cheerful and entertaining;
her husband, a gallant officer, who had fought through
the Peninsular war, and been quartered thirty-six
years before in Procida. The ground we traversed
has been celebrated by poets, was the chosen residence
of patriots and tyrants, and the scene of most atro
cious crimes ; it is remarkable also as having been
torn by terrible convulsions of nature. The recol
lection of what this district was, populous and
splendid, contrasted with its present aspect and con
dition, teaches an awful lesson. Rome preserves
traces of her glory. All the proud monuments of
luxury and grandeur in this region have been swept
away. Cities have vanished, lakes have dried up,
hills have been swallowed by the yawning earth,
which again, as in wild sport, has shot forth little
mountains from her heaving bosom. " The great
winding-sheet of Nature " has here encompassed the
earth in folds of destruction j earthquake after earth
quake has ravaged this beautiful region, changing all
things, even the climate. Poets naturally seized on
this wonderful country as the appropriate scene for
their lofty imaginations and fancies ; nor is it sur
prising that, untaught by revelation, they should have
here placed the entrance to their Tartarus and their
Elysium, for here was combined the awful with th^
beautiful.

20 LAKE AVERNUS.
Diverging from the shore, near the remains of
Cicero's villa, we paused, first, before the Monte
Nuovo, not far from Lake Avernus. This child of
an earthquake (for such is the mountain thus appro
priately named,) is nearly round at the base, and
narrows gradually as it rises in the form of a cone at
the top ; covered with verdure externally, it shows
no proof of its volcanic birth. This new mountain
was flung up in the great eruption of 1538.*
The Lake Avernus is the next, object commanding
our attention on this excursion, and beyond it, and
nearer the sea, is Lake Lucrinus. Crossing a field from
the road, and standing on an eminence, we look down
on the Avernus, which is now stripped of all its hor
rors, manifestly reposing in the crater of a volcano :
the sun shining full upon its waters, the lake pre
sented rather a light and pleasing view, its- base
skirted with plantations, its sides clothed with vine
yards ; nor is it any longer deserted by the feathered
tribe. No description could be more unlike the
modern Avernus, than that drawn by the poets; no
* The following is the account of the formation of this Monte
Nuovo, by Pietro Giacomo di Toledo, quoted by Sir William Hamil
ton in his " Campi Phlegrsei." The writer was, I believe, an eye
witness of the phenomenon.
" At last, about two hours in the night, the earth opened near the
lake, and discovered a horrid mouth, from which were vomited
furiously, smoke, fire, stones, and mud composed of ashes ; noise like
thunder. The smoke was partly black, and partly white : the black
was darker than darkness itself; and the white was like the whitest
cotton. The stones that foUowed were by the devouring flames con
verted to pumice— which were much larger than an ox. The stones
went as high as a cross-bow can carry, and then fell down, sometimes
into the mouth itself. The mud was at first liquid, then by degrees
less so, and in such quantities, that in less thau twelve hours, with
the help of the above-mentioned stones, a mountaiu was raised of
1,000 paces in height." This is the mountain we now see.

CITY OF cuM.a:. 21
more unsuitable spot in which to fix the infernal
regions ; nor was there any unpleasant odour to warn
us we had arrived —
"Ad fauces graveolentis Averni."
The shape of the lake is oval, and it is hardly one
mile across. With respect to Lake Lucrinus, which
lies beyond the Avernus, and nearer to the sea, it is
a mere pool of three or four acres in extent ; its
shores, once crowded with villas, are now in aspect
wholly destitute of interest.
Both these lakes were connected with the sea in
the time of Julius Caesar. Avernus, by the assist
ance of an earthquake, now half a mile distant, and
Lucrinus, but a few yards from the beach, is con
nected with the sea by a sluice. As there is a con
siderable depth of water in each of these lakes, a
good harbour might easily be formed by cutting a
communication between them and the sea. Lucrinus
was famous for shell-fish in the days of Horace.
There are a few habitations along the once densely
inhabited shore between Pozzuoli and Miseno. To
get a view of the place in which Cumse stood, we
must ascend to an ancient ruined gateway, called
Arco Felice, which seems to have been the suitable
approach towards a great city. Scrambling up a
steep short hill to the right of this porch, and cross
ing a vineyard, a complete view is caught of the plain
which was wholly occupied by the city of Cumae.
This city was one of the earliest founded by the
Greeks in Italy ; flourished, and decayed, and even in
Juvenal's time'was called Vacua Cuma. In the days
of Horace, Cumae and Baise were alike celebrated for
their baths. In our sight was the rock where stood

22 BAliE.
the famous temple and oracle of the Cumean Apollo.
Here flourished the Sibyl, and the grotto is still visible
and visited. To the north of Cumse stands the
tower called the tomb of Scipio Africanus. Cumas
had a harbour formed by a lake which was made to
communicate with the Avernus, but by a convulsion
of nature the Cumean lake was separated from the
Avernus, and having no communication with the sea,
its waters have overspread the surrounding lands,
changed them into a marsh, and infected the air.
Making a circuit, we descend towards Baise by the
lake of Fusaro, which represents the Acherusian
marsh ; and certainly it must have changed wonder
fully for the better since Virgil wrote, for a more
agreeable excursion there cannot be than by its sunfty
shores. This lake communicates with the sea, its
waters are salt, and it abounds in excellent oysters,
for which reason the enlightened sovereign of Naples
has an oyster box built in the water, wherein to feast
on the delicious flsh. At the extremity of Lake
Fusaro is a pool, which some assert to be the ancient
Cocytus —
" Cocyti stagna alta vides Stygiamque paludem."
Nothing terrified by the aspect of the Tartarean
regions, we descended agreeably to Baise, once a
delightful retreat, the abode of fashion and pleasure.
Hither came the rulers of the world to recruit their
strength and revive their spirits. The warm baths of
Baiae made it a luxurious city. It is now a ruin ; even
its salubrity has passed away. There are, however,
large remains of two temples, the one dedicated to
Venus, the other to Mercury, with innumerable ruins ;
while the fine old castle, standing on a little promon-

BAI^. 23
tory exactly opposite Pozzuoli, is a striking object in
the bay, whose beauty cannot be despoiled. Not far
from the castle of Baiae, and on the shore, is pointed
out the tomb of Agrippina. Tacitus has told her
terrible history ; it is connected with this place — we
cannot think of it without a shudder : — when Nero
wished to despatch his mother, Anicetus his freedman,
in command of the fleet at Misenum, with diabolical
ingenuity suggested the model of a ship on such a
construction, that when at sea the timbers might fall
asunder and crush Agrippina or plunge her to the
bottom ; her death would be ascribed to shipwreck.
" Nihil tam capax fortuitorum quam mare."
The stratagem delighted the monster ; the infernal
machine was constructed and splendidly decorated.
Agrippina was invited to a viUa called Bauli, between
Misenum and the gulf of Baiae, and her suspicions
soothed by the feigned affection of Nero, who at a
late hour of the night attended her to the shore, and
fondly bade her adieu. Delighting in aquatic excur
sions, she went on board with two domestics. The
night was calm, the stars shone brightly in the sky,
" Noctem sideribus in lustrem et placido mari quietum
quasi convincendum ad scelus, Dii prcebuerer At a
short distance from the shore the deck fell and crushed
her attendant, but the props of her chamber being
firm, saved herself and her companion ; the latter
exclaiming that she was the Emperor's mother, and
invoking aid, was instantly beaten to death with oars
and poles. Agrippina silently eluded the assassins,
plunged into the sea, and struggled towards tbe shore,
was picked up and conveyed to her villa on the Lu
crine lake, where she was murdered. The same his-

24 CENTO CAMERELLE.
torian tells us, that after Nero's death, by the care of
her domestics, an humble monument was raised to his
mother, on the road to Misenum, perhaps on the spot
where we now stand. It was afterwards proposed to
dispatch Nero while feasting in the villa of Piso, in
Baise ; but Piso, though hating the tyrant, refused to
stain his table with blood, or offend the gods of hos
pitality. Proceeding along the shore, we arrive at the Cento
Camerelle, or the Labyrinth — ^my visit to which I
shall not readily forget. Here an ignoble accident
had nearly deprived of life my gallant companion,
who had escaped " many a moving accident by flood
and field." We were conducted into a gloomy apart
ment, the dimensions of which it was impossible to
perceive by aid of the scanty light admitted through
the door. The guide went for torches to show us the
subterranean chambers, and, while groping over the
earthen floor, I suddenly missed the General from my
side, and heard as suddenly a crackling of sticks, as if
a heavy weight was bursting through them. Looking
intently aV)out me, I saw a foot rising out of the
ground. The General was sinking into what I con
ceived to be a horrible pit ; he was cool and silent,
although prostrate, and going he knew not whither.
Clutching at the leg, we caught a hand, and with diffi
culty extricated the old soldier, while the sticks were
crackling under him. While thus engaged, his lady
rushed forward to assist, and she too vanished at once
out of our sight. Our fair friend soon reappeared,
not much the worse, emerging by a flight of stone
steps, down which she had plunged head foremost.
Then we discovered the cause of our misfortunes.
The descent to a subterranean chamber was, by a

ISLE OF PROCIDA. 25
steep flight of stairs running from an open space,
covered at the top by feeble sticks, over which any
man might walk inadvertently, as did my friend.
We declined further to explore the Labyrinth, but
pushed on to the vast I'uin called La Piscina Mirabile.
The descent into this reservoir of water is very easy ;
when at the bottom it presented the appearance of
an extensive hall, supported by forty-eight arches.
The ancients were most particular in securing a
plentiful supply of wholesome water. The size
of this reservoir does not appear excessive, when
the grandeur and populousness of Baise are remem
bered. Hitherto we have crept along the shore of the bay ;
instead, however, of prolonging our route to the point
of the promontory. Cape Miseno, we must scramble
over the promontory to visit the Elysian Fields,
immortalized by the genius of Virgil. The Mare
Morto, a shallow lake, the Lethe of the poets, must
first be crossed. I tried to excite some classical
enthusiasm in passing over this region ; but, although
not destitute of beauty, the vineyards and the ground
are so far excelled by a thousand other places in this
lovely land, that we should wonder why even poets
chose it as their Elysium, did we not know how
changed the aspect of Nature is.
We were now at the edge of the sea, opposite the
Isle of Procida, for which we gladly embarked in a
four-oared barge. It will occupy an hour to row to
this rocky isle, anciently called Prochyta. The rock
of Procida is densely inhabited. The town is dirty,
and when we escaped from its long and narrow
streets, our walk lay between high walls which closed
VOL. III. C

26 ISLE OF ISCHIA.
the view on both sides. The General discovered his
old quarters, and marched as gaily past them as he
did some forty years ago. Soon we caught a view of
Ischia and the bay, gladly re-entered our barque, and
pulled for the volcanic isle. An hour's hard rowing
brought us under the castle, still fortified, standing
proudly on a high cliff jutting into the sea.
There was an appearance of business upon the quay
of Ischia. We found that the hotel SentineUa, de
sirable for its situation and supposed comfort, was
three miles distant ; so mounting mules, and attended
by our stout boatmen carrying our bags, we advanced
cheerily under as glorious a sun as ever gilded the
horizon by its setting beams. Our ride was delight
ful ; the bridle-path varied and romantic — now pre
senting scenes of almost tropical vegetation, and again,
as we ascended the mountain, scenes of desolation —
the lava shot from a volcano 500 years ago, looking
fresh and lumpy, as if discharged yesterday. The
delicious air, the novelty of the scene, and the
magnificence and variety of the prospect, made us
forget all fatigue, and exult in our enjoyment. Bare
existence here is bliss ; moreover, to be permitted
quietly to enjoy what we beheld (a thing utterly im
possible in and around Naples) was no slight addition
to our happiness. I should observe, that the people
of Ischia, whether they preserve anything of their
original Greek extraction or not, are wholly distinct,
in behaviour, dress, manner, and conversation, from
the half-savage lazzaroni of the capital, or the de
testable race which block up the avenues to Vesuvius;
there was a quietness and decency about the Ischians
peculiarly pleasing; moreover, they are handsome.

ISLE OF ISCHIA. 27
virtuous, and industrious. We were rewarded for
our fatigue, the situation of the hotel being in the
most beautiful spot in the volcanic island. We were
unexpected guests at this season. There were beds
and maccaroni ; little else. Beef had seldom been
seen in Ischia ; mutton or veal never in licnt. There
was a fowl ; I asked, was it alive or dead ? Living,
was the reply. In an hour we tried to eat him, but
were forced to revert to the maccaroni. But when
did I before sleep so soundly ! our fire was lit with
myrtle wood, the floor was swept with brooms of
myrtle ; the vegetation was fresh as might be ex
pected in gentle summer.
A glorious sun-rise summoned us from slumber.
Having feasted on fish and coffee, we remounted our
mules, and rode away through the island ; our guides
conducted us by bridle-})aths over mountains fragrant
with myrtle, heath, wild violets, and other luxuriant
products of this delightful climate. We were then
obliged to descend towards the coast guarded by the
old castle. We passed fields of lava six centuries
old, the land still suffering from the withering de
struction of an eruption now so ancient. In one
spot only did we see smoke issuing from the sup
pressed volcano, but the whole island looks as if shot
up into the waters by a convulsion of nature from
which it may again suffer. This volcanic isle,
anciently called Pithecusa, contains twenty-seven
square miles, and is productive of rice, silk, excellent
oil, wheat, and fruits. To vary our returning route,
we rowed right across the bay, fourteen miles to
Pozzuoli. The waters of the Mediterranean, clear
as crystal, sparkled brightly in the sun, and we
c 2

28 ISLE OF ISCHtA.
enjoyed the little voyage with a peculiar relish.
Passing under Cape Miseno, I failed not to remember
him who was the companion of the mighty Hector,
whose name the genius of Virgil stamped on the
promontory before me, and which it will retain for
ever. " At pius Eneas ingenti mole sepulchrum,
Imponit Buaque arma viro remumque tubamque,
Monte sub aerio, qui nune Misenus ab illo,
Dicitur eternumque tenet per SiECula nomen."

POMPEII AND HERCULANEUM. 29

CHAPTER in.
EXCURSIONS FROM NAPLES.
The Royal Museum.— Pompeii and Herculaneum.
We must retain our curiosity, and before we visit
the exhumed cities, devote some days to the exami
nation of the Royal Museum and its rare contents.
This museum is the chief object of attraction in
Naples, and there is, or can be, no similar collection
in the world. Let the traveller omit the churches,
and when he can, visit the Studii publici, where the
curiosities drawn from Herculaneum and Pompeii
are spread before him in boundless profusion, and yet
in the exactest order. Omitting all description of
the building and its ornaments, we may in general
terms describe the arrangements of the rooms and
their precious deposits. There are a number of
apartments, each under careful superintendence,
appropriated to the reception of different subjects.
The visitor may enter which he pleases, between the
hours of eight and two. The gallery of ancient
paintings found ^in Herculaneum and Pompeii, is in
valuable ; the critics say, as to some of these paint
ings, that the composition is superior to the execution,
while others assert that Raffaelle did not excel the
frescoes more recently obtained in Pompeii. This
latter assertion I disbelieve. It appears the collec-

30 ROYAL MUSEUM.
tions got in Herculaneum are the most numerous, and
certainly it is not possible to behold these frescoes
without astonishment. They are fresh and vivid, in
outline, figure, and execution, almost as when thrown
off by the artist before the Christian era. It is im
possible to describe the variety of the paintings, or to
dwell on their peculiar excellence. I believe they
amount to nearly 2000.
The galleries of ancient sculpture also contain
many rare specimens of this art, in which the ancients
must for ever continue to be our masters. In the
last room stands the celebrated Toro Farnese, found
in the ruins of the baths of Caracalla in Rome. This
is an immense work of splendid sculpture, containing
four full-sized human figures ; the bull and one or
two smaller figures not interfering with the action of
the piece. The base on which this great work rests,
is adomed with sculptured animals of various kinds ;
some feeding, some hunting, others in the act of
seizing their prey. The representation in marble is
that of two intrepid youths holding back a bull with
the most extraordinary energy and force ; their atti
tudes are full of muscular power and spirit. A
woman, supposed to represent Dirce, nearly prostrate
on the ground, is bound by the hair of her head to
the horns of the bull, ready to be borne along in its
mad career — to prevent which catrastophe, the
youths, sons of Lycus, King of Thebes, strive to
restrain the furious animal. The fourth figure is
that of a graceful female (Antiopa), standing behind
the bull, and apparently directing the young men to
save by their strength the prostrate Dirce (whose
face is full of terror) from destruction. The story
illustrated by this great work is, that Antiopa having

THE LIBRARY. 31
cause to be jealous of Dirce, commands the youths to
avenge her in the way the artist exemplifies ; then
repenting her severity, she enjoins her obedient sons
to save the unfortunate object of her jealousy. This
great piece of sculpture is not only larger, but in iny
opinion much grander, than the Laocoon of the
Vatican. There is another, the Etruscan apartment,
filled with antiquities of that curious people ; vases,
and bronze sculpture of animals, and figures of men
and children, in various actions and positions.
The library is a grand apartment containing
300,000 volumes. In another room are the Papyri,
found in Herculaneum nearly a century ago. A vast
deal has been written on these Papyri, but less has
been done in their elucidation than was hoped and
expected. The volumes actually published of the
unrolled Papyri, deciphered by an ingenious but
tedious process, have rather lulled than raised the
curiosity of the learned. The English government
bestowed considerable money and labour on the task
of restoring these long buried manuscripts ; but the
exertions of their agents have not been crowned
with much success. The apartment in the museum
containing the kitchen furniture of Pompeii is com
plete, and the examination of it most entertaining ;
there are saucepans of many shapes, but none very
large, resembling those which may be in use for the
delicate French cookery of the present day. I was
greatly amused at seeing articles exactly similar to
our Irish griddle, and to the kind of pan used
amongst our country people for frying rashers and
eggs. The scales for weighing small weights were
much like our own, the jugs and other vessels not
very dissimilar to ours. There was an immense

32 HOUSES OF POMPEII.
variety in their lamps and candelabras in form and
decoration ; some of their small lamps are very ele
gant in shape, execution, and design, and are copied
in the shops of Naples. Their vases were of the
shape so commonly seen in every museum on the
continent; a fine lady's toilet was discovered, with
all sorts of knick-knackery, and a large supply of
short broad bottles, containing cosmetics, rouge, and
whatever could minister to female vanity. The
helmet of the soldier on guard at the gate when
Pompeii was destroyed, is also in the museum, and
other armour of a weight that men now could scarcely
carry. Having seen the contents of the houses in Pompeii,
we must now see the houses themselves. The best
account (because that of an eye-witness) ofthe volcanic
catastrophe which overwhelmed the devoted cities, is
given by the younger Pliny, in his well-known letters
to the historian Tacitus. The elder Pliny was in
command of the fleet at Misenum, and when the
eruption broke out sailed across the bay to Stabiae,
the modern CasteUamare, to succour the terrified in
habitants in escaping, and was himself, when near
the shore, suffocated by the ashes which fell upon
him ; possibly his corpulency impeded his movement
and hastened his fate. The letters were written by
the younger Pliny, who remained at Misenum, and
graphically described the awful scene. This was
not, however, the first disaster which had overtaken
Ponipeii. In the fifteenth book of Tacitus it is men
tioned — " Et motu terrae celebre campaniae oppidum,
Pompei magna et parte proruit." Many proofs of
this earthquake are visible through the city.
There are two modes of approaching Pompeii : one

STREET OF TOMBS. 33
by railway ; the guide conducted me from thence to
the quarter of the city by which we ought to make
our exit, because it was most convenient for him.
Inquiring for the Street of Tombs, I discovered the
artifice, ahd made a very fatiguing circuit, in order to
enter Pompeii by its Appian Way. What is now
called the Street of Tombs is outside the city, and
forms an approach equally affecting and solemn.
There is something deeply interesting in the fact,
that the nations of Rome and Greece, in the midst
of life, desired to be reminded of death : their respect
for the dead was unbounded. We should shrink from
making an approach to a great city by a thoroughfare
lined with tombs ; yet it seems not inappropriate to
present to the public eye the monuments of those
who dignified or exalted their country. The Street
of Tombs at Pompeii is wholly unlike the present
condition of the Via Appia : in the latter but a few
memorials remam ; in the former, although some of
the monuments are mutilated, they stand nearly as
originally placed. There is a great variety also in
shape and construction : we have the cippus, which
could not have contained a body; again, a short
monumental pillar ; then a family tomb ; next, such
a columbaria as we have already described in Rome;
lastly, cenotaphs, with inscriptions still legible, and,
whether owing to the climate or the light nature of
the ashes which cover them, these monuments look
fresher than those erected one month in the modern
cemeteries under our gloomy sky.
It seems strange that the gay people of Pompeii
should have made a principal entrance to their city
by a road lined with the monuments of their dead.
But it is most remarkable, that amidst these tombs

34 SKELETONS.
Stands one of the most curious houses in Pompeii--
the villa of Diomedes. - This spacious habitation is
built on the slope of a hill, the doorway elevated five
or six feet above the street, so that there is a space
at the back of the house for an extensive suite of
rooms between the level of the peristyle and the sur
face of the ground. The order of the 'peristyle is
very elegant. The columns, their capitals and en
tablatures, and the paintings on the walls, are in good
preservation; the apartments are numerous. Two
rooms, most agreeably situated at either end of along
gallery, looking out upon the upper terraces of the
garden, command a view of the whole gulf of Naples
to Sorrento and the island of Capri.
In one of the apartments appropriated to the
luxury of the bath, four panes of glass, about six
inches square, were found in the window.
Under the portico, and on a level with the garden,
are several rooms, supposed to have been the summer
residence of the family, from their refreshing coolness.
They are'peculiarly interesting,frompossessingvaulted
ceilings richly painted, as few ceilings are found in
Pompeii. These paintings, and those on the walls,
are fast fading. The garden is spacious; near the
gate was found a skeleton, supposed to be that of the
proprietor, and beside him a bunch of keys and a bag
of money — a miserable satire on human naturel In
the subterranean vaults, where wine and oil were
stored, and to which a staircase led from the house,
were discovered, huddled up together, the skeletons
of seventeen persons, covered by a mass of ashes of
extreme fineness, supposed to have slowly entered by
the vent-holes, and thus consumed the victims with
lingering torments. The breast and neck of a girl.

SHOP SIGNS. 35
said to display extraordinary beauty of form, and the
very texture of the dress in which she was clothed, so
fine as to be taken for gauze, were distinctly im
pressed on this winding-sheet of death. On other
fragments were visible the impression of jewels worn
on the neck and arms ; jewels were also found. Two
of the skeletons were those of children. The city
gate, called that of Herculaneum, is not lofty or im
posing — ^but we must remember, Pompeii was but a
second-rate city at best. Here in his stone sentry-
box vyas found a skeleton of a soldier on guard ; the
spear and helmet have been preserved.
The streets are very narrow and gloomy ; marks of
wheels are still visible, also huge stepping-stones to
help in crossing the street, and a raised pathway.
There are not many streets in which it would be
possible for two bigoe* to pass; the widest is not
thirty feet across. The houses we visited are named
either after the articles found therein, from paintings
on the walls, from the person who directed the ex
cavation, or from some other accidental circumstance :
and throughout the streets are seen signs over the
shops, indicating the trades pursued within ; as, two
men carrying an amphora or vase for wine, probably
served as a sign for a wine-shop — another, a goat,
denoted the vendor of milk — and an amusing painting
of one boy hoisted upon another's back undergoing a
flagellation, was, no doubt, a striking illustration of
the schoolmaster within. If the reSder can imagine
himself walking through a street wherein the tops of
the houses were cut off, he will have a good idea of
Pompeii. The habitations were low, and fronted by
a dead wall, which gives them a cheerless and even
* Two-horse chariot.

36 HOUSE OF PANSA.
repulsive aspect, not unlike many to be seen in
Italy at the present day. It will take about four
hours, if you examine the principal houses on your
way, to reach the opposite gate, in the quarter of the
public buildings.
The Forum was more than 400 yards distant from
the Herculaneum gate. We must stop to examine
some of the principal dwellings, such as the house of
the surgeon, so styled from the quantity of surgical
instruments found therein, most of them made of
bronze. It is an amusing fact, that a box of. pills
was discovered in Pompeii — curious evidence of the
antiquity of the apothecary's art ; a loaf was found
with the baker's name stamped upon it. The houses
of the tragic poet, of Sallust, of Pansa, of the great
and little fountain in the Strada Mercurio, both of
which are kept locked to preserve the mosaics, orna
mental frescoes, &c. must also be examined ; as like
wise the house of the Fawn, where there is a marble
sphynx, and some beautiful mosaics ; amongst others,
that of a dove drawing a bracelet from a box. There
are many more may well be looked at, such as that
called after the French general, Championnet, in
whose time a good deal was effected. by the French in
excavating Pompeii.
The house of Pansa occupies a space of some 300
feet square. The plan of this building is common to
all the rest ; a door close to the street leads through
a little vestibule into the atrium — a marble hall,
nearly square, with a basin of water in the centre.
Several small chambers are on the right and left as
you enter the atrium, also recesses for seats. De
corations were lavished on this, the public division of
the habitation — frescoes, paintings, marble pave-

HOUSE OF SALLUST. 37
ments, mosaics, and statues — and, we may assume,
flowers, with a cooling fountain : a great deal of
ornament is here crowded into a small space. We
next are conducted through the tablinum into the
peristyle, which is exactly opposite the outer door.
The peristyle is handsome, spacious, adorned with
pillars, a colonnade, having in the centre another
basin of water. On each side were the sleeping-
rooms, small and dark: the kitchen is at the end of
the peristyle on your left. A curious religious paint
ing was here found, representing the worship offered
to the Lares, under whose protection and custody the
provisions and all the cooking utensils were placed.
The stove in the kitchen is much like those charcoal
stoves used in the present day. Nearly opposite the
kitchen was the triclinium, or banqueting room.
Passing on, still in a straight line from the door, we
came to a portico separating us from the garden, which
closed in the whole dwelling. This garden could not
have been very spacious, but it was elegant and orna
mental, adorned with statues and a refreshing foun
tain. It will be seen from this description, that the
apartments of a house belonging to a person of dis
tinction were all on the ground floor. Around this
building were chambers let as shops, like those we see
at the present day, composed of walls with the front
open to the streets ; one evidently to a baker, as the
implements of his trade were discovered. These
shops had separate entrances from the side street, not
interfering with the proprietor of the mansion.
Not inferior in interest to the house of Pansa is that
of Sallust, in the street leading from the gate of Her
culaneum to the Forum. Though of small propor
tion, the several rooms to the right of the atrium

38 EXCAVATIONS.
were peculiarly elegant ; two of these cabinets were
paved with marble, the walls partly lined with the
same material, and adorned with admirable paintings
still in good preservation. A niche contained an
image, a gold vase, and twelve bronze medals of the
reign of Vespasian ; and near this spot were found
eight small bronze pillars, supposed to have formed
part of a bed. In the adjoining lane, four skeletons
were discovered, apparently a female and her at
tendant slaves ; perhaps the occupant of this elegant
apartment. Near her lay several ornaments of gold,
and five massive bracelets. A beautiful fresco of
Actaeon covers nearly the whole wall of the court. I
visited with increased interest a large house recently
excavated ; the paintings, as might be supposed, were
fresh and brilliant. The walls were chiefly covered
with drawings of animals, lions, tigers, bulls, horses,
and wild beasts in pursuit of their prey. A Neapo
litan artist was copying them accurately. This is
generally done immediately after the excavation of a
house is finished.
We next visited the excavations actually making ;
there was unusual bustle, for the Empress of RiiSsia
was expected, and a house was clearing out for her
inspection. A workman threw down his spade, wiped
with a wet cloth the wall from which the ashes were
shovelled, and showed us paintings similar to those
we had just seen. A little sphynx in terra cotta was
dug up in my presence ; but it is impossible to pur
chase anything : all is secured for the museum.
Pompeii was not destroyed by an eruption of lava,
but by a suffocating shower of soft fine ashes, cinders,
and liquid matter, which in the course of a week
covered the city, penetrating every dwellin"-, and

THEATRES  FORUM. 39
filling up every crevice. The consistence of the mat
ter, and its nature, accounts for the preservation of
the buildings and their contents ; and the length of
time which it must have required to cover Pompeii
with twelve feet of ashes, enabled the majority of the
inhabitants to escape, although great numbers must
have perished. The skulls of skeletons were found
in the streets, which had been fractured by big stones
projected from Vesuvius, five miles distant.
Among the public buildings are baths in admirable
preservation ; they are spacious, splendidly decorated,
and arranged in excellent taste. The round apart
ment is specially deserving of attention ; paintings,
frescoes, and carved figures adorned it, and glass
windows were found there, as were glass utensils in
the city. Although after the Roman Thermae the
Pompeian baths appear small, still they wefe, in pro
portion to the relative size and grandeur of the cities,
equally elegant and convenient.
The theatres are perfect in form ; the seats and
stage remain; perhaps the inhabitants, giddy in pur
suit of pleasure, were here seated under a brilliant
sky when the earth rocked beneath, or the volcano
burst upon their heads. One theatre, the largest, was
without a roof originally, and may have held about
5,000 persons. There are no remains of the marble
which is said to have adorned it. The small theatre
in the same quarter of the city was roofed. The amphi
theatre is at some distance, and would contain 10,000
persons. The public buildings, the temples, theatres,
basilica, market, are clustered around the Forum.
This area, which was covered with slabs of marble,
presents the grandest view to be seen in Pompeii.
Here are columns — some entire, others broken, some

40 PANTHEON.
standing, others prostrate — ruined temples and pedes
tals, and at the north-east corner was a triumphal
arch. On the right, as you enter the Forum, stand
the majestic ruins ofthe temple of Jupiter ; to which
you ascend by a flight of steps, and, seated on the
platform in front of the portico, survey the whole —
repeople it with the votaries of pleasure or super
stition, or the angry litigants pressing to the hall of
j ustice — and gaze upon the volcano which overwhelmed
them. Crossing the Forum to our left, we reach a build
ing kept locked, and fancifully called the Pantheon ;
it is curious in this respect, that in the centre stand
twelve pillars around an altar ; in the row of buildings
within this enclosure were lodged the priests, a nume
rous body of impostors. Walking to the extremity
of the Forum, and turning to our right, we come to
the ruins of the Basilica, or hall of justice. The
size of this building astonished me ; it is 230 feet
long and 80 broad, of magnificent dimensions, sus
tained by splendid columns, with the Praetor's throne
still visible. Here we have an example, in a pro
vincial town of the empire, of a hall of justice such
as exists not in the length of the Peninsula in modern
times. Justice anciently did really exist, and was
administered with purity and with external splendour.
The thing called justice in modern Italy, (excepting
in Tuscany and in cases not political in Lombardy,)
was and is a vile mixture of corruption and chicanery,
and accordingly it is administered in the dark, and in
meanness, while those engaged in the fraud are
regarded by the rest of society as cheats and knaves,
or as disgraced by their occupation. There is scarcely
in the British empire such a hall of justice as that

TEMPLE OF ISIS. 41
which adorned Pompeii. As to the temples, the
largest (near the theatres) is that erected to Hercules ;
the form is traceable, but the pillars and roof are gone.
The little temple of Isis is more interesting ; — it is
complete in form, divisions, and arrangement. I
relished the visit exceedingly, because 1 got from
behind into the secret shrine, where the crafty priests
played off their rogueries upon the people. A num
ber of articles appertaining to the worship of Isis
were discovered, and the skeleton of a priest, who,
true to his craft, clutched in his knavish hand a bag
of money — his god — while he left behind the sacred
things of Isis, whose virtues doubtless he thoroughly
understood. About this temple several skeletons
were found, which proves that the worship of Isis
was popular; her statue was turned up, and it is
evident that several of her priests met the fate they
deserved. From the ornaments, relics, articles of
every description of household utility and decoration
down to the lady's toilet, found, we can understand
how the flourishing city was overtaken by sudden
rnin in the midst of the enjoyment of a luxurious
existence. A third part of Pompeii is now restored
to light, and wants but the people to complete the
reality. You pass from the theatres into a spacious market,
and leave the city by the gate nearest the railway.
With respect to the size of Pompeii, its greatest
length was not a mile, its breadth half a mile, its area
about 160 acres. It was protected by a wall and six
gates. Its situation was excellent, close to the sea
shore. The guide will point out to the stranger rings
to which vessels, he says, were moored; it is now
half a mile inland, and the river Samus is dwindled
to a rill. These changes, however great, are not sur-

42 HERCULANEUM.
prising, considering the nature of the soil, and the"
revolutions it has undergone. There are now nearly
100 houses uncovered ; under any other government
the whole city might have been excavated, but from
the Neapolitan sway no good thing can be expected.
Upon a review of the city, so far as the habits of
domestic life are laid open to our view, we can decide
that our comforts and domestic enjoyments are im
measurably superior to those possessed by the inha
bitants of this entombed city. It surprised me to
find so few persons visiting Pompeii, remembering
we were near to one of the most populous cities in
the world. The Neapolitans would not relish the
profound silence, the death-like solitude, of the
Street of Tombs ; we turn each corner, almost expect
ing the disembodied spirits to present their shadowy
forms, and reproach us for intruding on their solitary
domains. It is not possible to feel cheerful in tra
versing Pompeii ; whatever we behold in this strange
place reminds us of an awful catastrophe. We look
up to Vesuvius, and lo, the volcano still vomits forth
its burning lava, hot stones, and ashes. We know
not whether the fair cities at its base may not be
overwhelmed as Herculaneum was, by a fiery torrent.
The natural phenomena engross our attention ; we
gaze on the brilliant sky, the beautiful bay, the vo
luptuous city. We may force our attention on the
curious objects of exhumed Pompeii, but to Vesuvius
we again and again turn, with wonder and with terror.
Herculaneum presents to the eye but little, in
comparison with Pompeii ; yet what we do see in the
open air, because not extensive, is more accurately
examined and remembered. Descending as if into a
square garden, we have before us all on which the
light of heaven shines. Even after Pompeii, the

PORTICL 43
remains of the few houses, with their frescoes and
paintings, are deeply interesting. When unequal to
the fatigue of traversing the streets of Pompeii, this
remnant of Herculaneum afforded an agreeable sub
stitute. The theatre, many feet underneath the town
of Portici, is the chief object of attraction. A gallery
or subterranean passage has been cut through the
mass of matter which overwhelmed Herculaneum,
along which, by the help of torches, we grope our
way till we reach the orchestra. The seats and form
of this vast theatre are visible. Many valuable statues
were here discovered, and some admirable pieces of
sculpture. Very extensive excavations have been made since
1713, when Herculaneum was discovered ; the most
successful in the time of Charles, King of Spain.
The museum was furnished, chiefly from this city,
with a prodigious variety of all the ornamental and
useful articles of life ; and also, as already remarked,
with the Papyri manuscripts. When the treasures
of antiquity were extracted, the excavations were
again filled up, except those preserving the approach
to the benches of the theatre. The mass of matter
we actually see, pressing down the city of Hercula
neum, is a dark grey stone, brittle, and easily cut
through ; and as it did not adhere to foreign bodies,
marbles and bronzes were preserved ; it is said, that
exact models of statues were frequently found in this
composition. Herculaneum may have suffered from
the eruption which buried Pompeii, but torrents of
lava from subsequent eruptions, which it is impossible
to remove, have covered the unfortunate city to a
depth of from 70 to 112 feet. Portici is built over
Herculaneum, no doubt in ignorance of its site.

44 ASCENT OF VESUVIUS.

CHAPTER IV.
Ascent of Vesuvius. — The Appearance of the Volcano from Naples.
— Ride through Fields of Lava to the Hermitage. — The Lazzaroni
Chairmen. — Ascent over Volcanic Ashes. — Base of the Cone —
Experiments in the Molten Lava. — Eruptions. — Projectile Power
of the Volcano. — Changes in the Size and Formation of Vesuvius.
A certain mode of checking an Eruption.— Sir William Hamil
ton's Theory of the Origin and Growth of Volcanic Mountains.
The ascent of Vesuvius I hesitated to venture on,
fearing want of strength for the task ; but tempted
by a cheerful party on a summer day in February, I
set out on an excursion which promised much plea
sure and instruction. During my residence in Naples,
I never retired to rest without gazing from the
balcony on Vesuvius ; it ceased not to vomit forth
fiery matter, and at night the volcano appeared in its
terrible grandeur, shooting up from the summit a
bright flame, while down the side flowed a narrow
stream of lava, which in the darkness appeared like
molten gold trickling from the crater. The beautiful
villas, smiling vineyards, and flourishing towns, near
and around the burning mountain, may in a moment
be swept away in a whirlwind of destruction, such as
must overtake the earth in its final doom.
It is eight miles from Naples to the base of the
cone of Vesuvius ; driving above five miles, we meet
the horses and donkeys which are to convey us on as

ERUPTIONS OF VESUVIUS. 45
far as they can safely go. The base of the mountain
is covered by the vineyards which produce the pleasant
wine called Lachrymse Christi.
The ascent at first is gradual, and there is time and
opportunity to look about : villages, solitary houses,
vineyards are passed, and we turn into what may be
properly described as a vast field of lava. Suddenly
we are in the midst of arid desolation. The change
is startling, the ground we now tread was fertile as that
behind us. It has been for ever withered, not a green
thing is visible : all the works of inan and productions
of nature have alike been blasted. The colour of the
lumps of lava, which lie in ugly heaps over the ground
through which our path winds, varies in proportion
to its age ; the older if is, the more earthy is its ap
pearance. The activity of Vesuvius far exceeds that
of ^tna ; there were great eruptions in 1794, 1805,
1813, 1822, 1831; and while I was in its contiguity,
smoke, more generally flame, and volleys of ignited
stone, were projected into the air. Flashes of light
ning vary the darkness of the smoke, while sulphur
eous vapours are emitted. Sometimes this lava is
poured out from the crater of the volcano ; at other
times the fiery liquid cannot boil up to its mouth, but
bursts forth from cavities in the flank of the moun
tain and pours into the plain. This we see at the
present moment. The lava moves slowly, but with
irresistible force. When congealed, as it is in the
tracks we now traverse, it becomes hard and heavy
like congealed mud. The lava annihilates every par
ticle of vegetable matter it touches, being impreg
nated with sulphuric and muriatic acid.
It is possible, by a circuitous route, to drive up to
the Hermitage, where parties generally rest and

46 THE LAZZARONI.
refresh themselves on their descent ; but this approach
deprives the stranger of the interesting ride through
the fields of lava, more appropriate in ascending the
volcanic mountain ; having reached the hermitage, we
must soon conclude our ride and toil over a most
rugged path, to the base of the cone of Vesuvius.
Here a difficulty would arise to individuals who, like
myself, could not undergo the fatigue ; but a simple
contrivance has been resorted to, namely an arm-chair
resting on poles, which, borne by four stout lazzaroni,
carries up the invalid in safety, though certainly not
in ease, to the summit. About a mile from the station
alluded to, guides, and porters with the chairs, were
awaiting us. Looking up, we perceived that the
steep sides of the mountain were covered thickly with
ashes, and the foot sank down deep into the soft
yielding mass. The labour of ploughing through this
is very great ; the strongest young men of our party
frequently sank down. For myself, seated in the
chair, I was dragged up for a time quietly enough,
till two half-naked fellows rushed forward, laid hold
of the poles, and tried to wrest them from my leaders.
A fight began ; each ruffian had a stick, which he
applied with such violence to the head of his oppo
nent, that blood spouted forth ; I shouted, and laid
on the combatants with my cane. No more regard
was paid to me than as if I were a lump of lava in
the chair, tossed about according to the fluctuations
of the contest. The battle ended, the miscreants
bound handkerchiefs round their heads, and proceeded
during the remainder of the ascent peaceably. They
receive a dollar for three quarters of an hour's work
— a prize in this country — hence the battle, which I
was informed was quite a usual occurrence. When it

ASCENT TO THE CRATER. 47
was possible to look about, I perceived the face of
the mountain to our right was covered with lava,
lying in broken masses, over which one or two indi
viduals slowly picked their way. The lazzaroni prefer
toiling up through the ashes, which covered that part
on which we were. Near the summit, were soldiers
with fixed bayonets, placed as a guard, and absolutely
necessary for the preservation of peace, if not of life.
Deposited to my great joy on the edge of the ascent,
I felt a great heat, without perceiving immediately
any cause for it. A person thrust into my hand a
stout white stick, and demanded a paui ; he then took
it from me, ran a little way before me, and pushing
it into the ashes, drew it out on fire. We were now
on an extensive plain of lava : the colour of that near
me was black, but on thrusting the stick down, it
yielded easily to the pressure, and the red fire ap
peared through the orifice. A little further on, the
lava was moving very slowly, like thick mud rolling
down the hill. Fields of hot lava must be crossed to
get to the inner and upper base of the cone, and in
some places the heat was oppressive. There were
little elevations scattered over this plain, on which
the guides would lead us to stand- and look around.
A number of professional beggars persecute the
stranger, and prevent his enjoyment of one moment's
peace. Some roast eggs in the lava ; others dip a
coin, and raise it imbedded in the volcanic matter,
which soon hardens like a crust, retaining the coin
firmly. Others thrust in sticks, and brandish them
in the air on fire ; some drag you to look through a
crevice at the fiery matter underneath.
At length we approached the crater, the ascent to
which looks as if covered with cinders, brick-dust,

48 THE TOPS OF VESUVIUS..
and rubbish ; in fact, the sugar-loaf mountain we so
greatly admire from afar, when close to it loses all its
beauty. But what a phenomenon was now before us !
every instant there shot forth columns of smoke, then
flame, then volleys of red stones were hurled into the
air ! The sound which accompanied these eruptiolis
was like a thundering underneath the awful raountain.
Sometimes I thought a huge bellows was at work, or"
an immense steam engine in motion. The fiery matter
was projected straight up into the air ; there was not
a breath of wind, and the greater part of the ignited
stones seemed to fall back into the yawning cavern.
It is not possible in such a scene to divest the mind
of a sensation of terror ; thousands have visited this
volcano in safety, still might a sudden destruction
overtake us where we presumptuously stood, in one
instant. The fate of Pompeii recurred to our minds ;
and the ruin of the splendid cities now lying around
the base of the volcano, seemed not merely possible
but probable. None of our party peeped into the
crater, nor did the guides then recommend it.
The projectile power of this volcano is prodigious ;
it is said that large stones have been cast to the height
of nearly 4000 feet above the crater ; and no doubt,
in the lumps of lava we now see lying about, pieces
of stone are often involved and hardened ; many of
the lumps are so much larger than the rest as to
resemble rocks. The mountain has two tops, one
only of which is properly Vesuvius, the other Somma;
and many think that what we call Somma was the
ancient Vesuvius. It is during the ascent that we
perfectly see the two summits and their relative pro
portions. Although it is so tedious a task to reach
the top of this mountain, its perpendicular height is

THE TOPS OF VESUVIUS, 49
but 3,700 feet ; nor should we forget that the shape,
and size, and aspect of this volcanic mountain have
changed, and will continue to change somewhat in
every great eruption. This is easily accounted for —
the mass of lava, ashes, stones, flung out from time to
time and thrown down the sides of the mountain,
must alter its bulk and form, and we must expect it
to grow more bulky every day.
The descent is comparatively easy, although the
fine ashes are the most disagreeable substance through
which any man ever walked. Heartily fatigued, we
rested some hours in the hermitage, and returned to
Naples after dark ; boys lit torches and ran before
the carriages, and we enjoyed the awful spectacle
of the burning mountain, which appeared from our
position to blaze with unusual fury. The best
description of the eruptions from Vesuvius, and of
the nature of volcanic mountains, and the character
of the country around Naples, is that drawn up by
Sir W. Hamilton* in his splendid work entitled
Campi Phlegroei, a book very scarce and not portable.
In March 1764, Hamilton saw a great eruption of
lava from the side of the mountain ; large stones
thrown on the lava did not sink, but floated on the
surface. The current ran with amazing velocity,
equal to the Severn near Bristol. The same gentle
man witnessed the eruption of 1766.
* This gentleman was British ambassador at Naples, of whom
Gibbon in his Autobiography has remarked : — " I was presented to
the boy King, by our new envoy. Sir William Hamilton, who, wisely
diverting his correspondence from the Secretary of State to the
Eoyal Society and British Museum, has elucidated a country of such
inestimable value to the naturalist and antiquarian." The numerous
plates add greatly to the value of this work.
VOL. III. D

50 AN ERUPTION.
In 1767, a little mountain was formed within the
ancient crater of Vesuvius, [which in eight months
grew 155 feet; it was perforated, and served as the
chimney of the volcano. TMs, Hamilton thinks, was
the way in which the whole of Mount Vesuvius as we
now behold it has been formed, and thus may the various
irregular strata in the neighbourhood of volcanoes
have been made. Sir William Hamilton saw the
smoke issuing from Vesuvius form itself into the
shape of a huge pine tree, just as Pliny describes it
in his letter to Tacitus. This column of smoke bent
with the wind, and reached twenty-eight miles, to
Caprise. It is curious that white smoke always ac
companies lava. In October of this year, 1767, he
writes : —
" I was making my observations on the lava, standing on
the mountain, when on a sudden I heard a violent noise
within the mountain : the sides split open. Prom this new
mouth a fountain of liquid fire shot up many feet high,
and then, like a torrent, rolled on directly towards us. It
seemed as if the mountain would split in pieces ; and in
deed ifc opened this night almost from the top to the
bottom. The mob in Naples on this occasion set fire to the
Cardinal Archbishop's gate, because he refused to bring out
the relics of Saint Januarius. Cinders and ashes fell in
quantities in Naples. In the midst of these horrors, the
mob, growing tumultuous and impatient, obliged the Car
dinal to bring out the head of Saint Januarius, and go with
it in a procession to the Porta Maddalena, at the extremity
of Naples towards Vesuvius ; and it is well attested here,
that the eruption ceased the moment the saint came in
sight of the mountain ; the noise ceased about the same
time. The lava ran six miles — in one place two miles
broad — and filled the Eosse Grande 200 feet deep. Forked

SUBTERRANEOUS FIRES. 51
zigzag lightning shot from a vast column of ashes, the
smoke of all volcanoes being pregnant wifch electric fire
Vesuvius ifcself has risen 2,000 feet in the same manner that
Monte Nuovo has risen."
Our author's theory is, that mountains are produced
by volcanoes, and not volcanoes by mountains, and
that Vesuvius has so been formed by degrees ; and
this he rests on the nature of the soil that covers the
ancient towns of Herculaneum and Pompeii, and the
interior and exterior of Monte Nuovo,* with the sort
of materials of which it is composed.
" The ancients," writes Hamilton in describing Vesuvius,
"never menfcioned two mountains. Monte Somma was of
volcanic origin ; but that now so called was, I believe, that
which the ancienfcs called Vesuvius. Ifcs outside form is
conical ; its inside is like a great theatre. The eruption in
Pliny's time threw down, I suppose, that part of the cone
next the sea, which would have left it in its present state ;
and I also believe that the conical mountain, or existing
Vesuvius, has been raised by succeeding eruptions : all my
observations confirm this opinion.
" There is no virgin soil in the neighbourhood of
Vesuvius ; and different strata of erupted matter are to be
met with even to a greafc depth below fche level of the sea.
In shorfc, I have not any doubt bufc that this volcano took
its rise from fche botfcom of the sea : and, as the whole plain
between Vesuvius and the mountains behind Caserta (which
is the best part of fche Campagna Felice) is, under its good
soil, composed of bumt matter, I imagine the sea to have
washed the feet of these mountains until fche subterraneous
fires began to operate at a period of remote anfciquifcy. The
* See an account of the way in whch the Monte Nuovo was
formed, in the chapter on the Phlegraean fields.
d2

52 SUBTERRANEOUS FIRES.
soil on whioh Naples stands — all the high grounds, Pau-
silipo, Puzzoli, Baiae, Misena, Procida, and Ischia — appear
to have been raised by explosion. Their conical shape can
be traced."
When we consider the way in which Monte Nuovo
was formed almost recently, it is difficult to resist the
conclusion of Sir W. Hamilton, formed on accurate
examination, and supported by analogies, that Vesu
vius ancient and modem has grown up under the
influence of volcanic fire.

STABLE. 53

CHAPTER V.
EXCUESION.
Stabiae, modern CasteUamare. — Sorrento, and the surrounding
country described. — Capri and the Blue Cave.
A FAVOURITE summer residence of the volatile
Neapolitans is built upon the site of the ancient
Stabias, of which no trace is now discernible. It
shared the fate of Herculaneum and Pompeii, and is
memorable as the scene of the death of Pliny, who
perished on the shore from suffocation caused by the
noxious and sulphureous vapours which prevailed
during the terrible eruption from Vesuvius. The sea
has receded from Castel a mar di Stabise as from
Pompeii ; the modern town is however on the shore,
and has, from its situation and the surrounding scenery,
much to recommend it. The town is skirted by
wooded mountains, intersected by shaded roads and
bridle paths, the rides through which are delightful.
Here, while the sun shines too brightly for exposure
to its rays, one may ride for hours, along cool and
pleasant paths opening out frequently into noble
prospects of wood, mountain, and sea. The com
mencement of the ascent is by a spacious road lined
on each side with magnificent timber, and leading to
the summer palace of the king, in a commanding
situation, but very simple in its arrangement. These
wooded mountains are studded with villas and villages.

54 ABODE OF TASSO.
and the English who may be condemned to a summer
residence in Italy would possibly find exercise more
practicable, and as many enjoyments here as in any
other part of the Peninsula. The hotel is tolerable,
and one hour's drive conducts the traveller to Pom
peii : so he has varied and abundant enjoyments
within reach. There is a little haven formed by a
mole at CasteUamare, where they pretend to build
vessels of war, but their chief business consists in
the cutting and exporting firewood to Naples.
But Sorrento invites the traveller to share its de
lights. Six miles to the south-east of CasteUamare
stands what was the abode of Tasso, at the edge of a
bold cliff overlooking the beautiful bay. What a drive !
The road constructed by the Neapolitan Government
reflects the highest credit on the skill of the engineer ;
there is nothing to equal it in this kingdom. It
runs along the mountain-side, and is frequently cut
through ledges of rock. The structure is excellent,
resembling the best of the roads in Switzerland, but
unlike them in this respect, that with mountain views-^
on the one hand, upon the other this road commands
views of the loveliest bay in the world. The distance
between Sorrento and CasteUamare is occupied by
romantically-situated towns and villas, which, with the
mountains and the bay, and the groves of oranges,
lemons, and myrtles, present a prospect which must
be seen to be understood, for it cannot in suitable
language be described.
This side of the Bay of Naples affords a singular
contrast to the loneliness and wretchedness of the
districts around Baise ; and an excursion to the island
promontory opposite, Capri, exhibits the luxuriant
fertility and fascinating beauty of Italian scenery

ENVIRONS OF SORRENTO. 55
more than any other around Naples. No doubt, the
charm with which the inhabitant of the cold north
beholds nature spreading before his eyes her innu
merable attractions, is enhanced by the brilliant sky
above him, which lights up every object with cloud
less splendour.
We stopped when it was impossible to drive fur
ther^ except into the sea. From a terrace on the
summit of a cliff, we looked down upon the blue
waters of the Mediterranean, towards Capri, shooting
its perpendicular sides into the air — the opposite
coast towards Misenum — and lastly, towards Naples,
shining in the sun. Could we wonder that here poetic
genius loved to dwell ? Turning into the hotel, we
found it called The Tasso, and a good bust of the
immortal poet appropriately adorned the saloon. They
insist this mansion was the birth-place of the poet,
that it was originally built on the site of an ancient
temple, and that the chamber in which Tasso was
born tumbled over the cliff into the sea. This last
assertion is very probable, for some of the existing
apartments rest on the edge of the cliff now propped
up by buttresses, which giving way, would hurry the
superstructure down with them. But while it stands,
let us enjoy the view of those scenes, the contempla
tion of which fed the youthful genius of one of the
chief of Italian poets. They here tell you that when
the father of Torquato Tasso came to Sorrento,
delighted with its situation, he exclaimed : —
" L'aria si sereno, si temperate, si salutifero,
Si vitale che gl' uomini che senza provar
Altro cielo ci vivono sono quasi immortall ! "
Although I cannot believe the inhabitants " flourish
in immortal youth," yet I can well conceive the

56 ST. AGATA.
general healthfulness of its climate, while all admit
the singular beauty of its situation. The sea, unruf
fled by a breath, tempted us to venture, in a " bauble
boat, upon her patient breast." The descent to the
shore led us along winding passages between high
walls, of which character are most of the streets, and
even the roads around Sorrento. The boatmen rowed
to the cave which they amusingly designate Poly
phemus, a short way up the coast. It is easily
entered in a small boat, and spacious within ; but,
undoubtedly, this is not the cave wherein the artful
Ulysses avenged himself on the hungry giant —
" Domus sanie dapibusque cruentis
Intus opaca, ingens."
In proceeding along the coast, the ruins of ancient
buildings are plainly visible at the bottom of the sea,
through waters clear as crystal. The sea gained on
the shore in this region, and ruined many famous
temples, as that of Ceres, which once adorned the
promontory of Sorrento, standing on its edge. There
are no classical ruins of any consequence, however,
now remaining on the shore.
A delightful excursion maybe made on mules to St.
Agata, on the summit of the mountain a few miles dis
tant. The approach to it gives an excellent idea of
this singular country. There is no carriage road,
except the one described leading to CasteUamare. The
passages across the mountains consist of mule-paths,
often resembling flights of stone steps, up and down
which these sagacious creatures find their way in
perfect safety. The paths leading up to the moun
tains lie between high walls, either used as en
closures, or to prop up the soil. Over these walls peep

ISLANDS OF THE SYRENS. 57
the orange trees, their branches laden with golden
fruit ; and at intervals we catch glimpses of the
beautiful scenery, which unfolds itself more fully as
we ascend. From the height of St. Agata there is a
splendid prospect of the whole Piano di Sorrento — vil
lages, churches, and groves which even in February
are rich in foliage. But the peculiar charm of this road
consists in the striking prospect of the Bay of Naples
on one side, and the Gulf of Salerno on the other.
We are sufficiently elevated on the promontory to
command both. A view so unequalled in grandeur
should on no account be omitted.
A walk of one half-mile conducts the traveller to a
height, whence looking into the Bay of Salerno, he may
behold some rocks, called Islands ofthe Syrens, where
certain mischievous ladies loved to dwell, and employ
their sweet Italian voices to lure the hapless mariner
to ruin —
" Monstra maris Sirenes erant quae voce canora,
Quamlibet admissas detinuere rates."
But the true Syrens were certainly not here.
I found Sorrento was not all sunshine ; on a second
visit to it in March, the weather was severe,
stormy, and bitterly cold ; the suddenness of the
change in temperature, with the prevalence of high
winds, render the Neapolitan climate one requiring
peculiar caution ; the invalid will, assuredly, feel the
greatest care to be essential.
A principal object on this visit was to see the Isle
of Capri and the Blue Cave. An agreeable party
were seated at an early hour in a six-oared boat, and
started full of hope ; but we had scarce rowed three
miles when the sea grew a little rough, and some
ladies a little sick ; so one division preferred to land
D 3

58 THE BLUE GROTTO.
at Massa, and return across the country on mules to
Sorrento, while the General (who wisely remarked on
the absurdity of ladies allowing themselves to become
indisposed on a pleasure trip) with my Oxford friend,
and his courageous lady, resolutely persevered, and
were rewarded for their determination ; the wind
abated, the waves subsided, and they got into the
Blue Cave, returning to Sorrento before seven o'clock,
affecting extravagant raptures for the thing their dis
appointed companions did not see. I am not sure,
however, that the day on shore was not spent quite
as agreeably.
And yet, in calm weather, the excursion to Capri
and the Blue Grotto must be most exhilarating and
delightful. The peculiarly bright azure colour
which clothes every object, including the dress and
countenances of the spectators, within the cave,
arises, no doubt, from the circumstance, that the
orifice in the face of the perpendicular cliff, which
will only admit a small boat, even in a calm day,
extends to a great depth, and becomes wider below
the surface of the water ; so that nearly all the light
which reaches the cavern, passes through a dense mass
of water, reflecting the hues of the Neapolitan sky.

EXCURSION TO LA CAVA. 59

CHAPTER VI.
Excursion by Nocera to La Cava. —The Convent described,— Salerno :
its School of Surgery. — The Temples at PiEStum. — Amalfl and
the Pandects. — Conclusion.

" Biferique rosaria PsESti."
Having enjoyed a few days' sight-seeing in Naples,
we resumed our excursions ; and on a sunny morning
started by railway to Nocera, where an open carriage
awaited our arrival. Our drive to La Cava was
agreeable — the weather rather too warm, the road
good, and full of hfe and bustle. We had intended
remaining the flrst day in the new and spacious hotel
near La Cava. But, although the house resembled
a palace, and stood in a beautiful situation, yet, when
entered and examined, it seemed as if it had been
shut up for the winter, that visitors were no longer
expected, and that a fire suddenly kindled would
hardly dispel the chilling atmosphere in the tiled,
deserted chambers. We therefore departed for
Salerno. Visitors are not expected at these sum
mer hotels so early as February and March ; and the
traveller had better betake himself to the neighbour
ing towns, and thence make his excursions.
The extreme beauty of the surrounding country,
and the celebrity of the ancient monastery of La Cava,
made us resolve on retracing our steps the ensuing

60 THE CONVENT.
day, in order fully to explore the district. The
descent to Salerno, by a capital road recently im
proved and enlarged, is highly interesting. A noble
bay, inferior to that of Naples only because it wants
the islands which lend the latter so great a charm ;
the shore, extending round the base of lofty moun
tains in a curve, Salerno rising from the coast to the
heights behind, and glistening in the sun — combine
to refresh the eye of the traveller, although wearied
in beholding the glorious scenery, by sea and land,
of this wonderful country. We were quickly settled,
exactly opposite the bay ; the view of which alone
repaid the fatigue of our joumey. There is constant
variety in such a place as Salerno, were it only in
observing the costume, manners, and civilization of
its mixed population. The old cathedral possesses
pictures, statues, and tombs of the great ; but like
the churches of Naples, it is conceived in bad taste,
and exhibits the usual jumble of styles.
The next day we enjoyed a delightful ride to La
Cava ; diverging from the road, we ascended a wooded
mountain for two miles, and then reached the cele
brated convent. This venerable pile has stood for
ages, was respected even by Napoleon, and contains
a precious collection of ancient manuscripts and books,
the preservation of which was made the condition of
its existence by the French tyrant. The ladies of our
party were permitted to enter the church only; but
a gentleman appeared, who politely conducted me
over this ancient establishment. I saw the libraries,
antiquities, refectory — in fact, every part ofthe build
ing. The brethren who occupy this convent are
gentlemen by birth, education, and manners; their
dress is simple black, that of the Benedictines : they

BRETHREN OF THE CONVENT. 61
are not imprisoned for life, but walk out when they
please, visit the poor or the gentry, and occasionally
the metropolis. These gentlemen are not to be con
founded with the fanatics called Capuchins and Fran
ciscans, who prowl about the country and prey on
the credulity of a superstitious people. Returning
to the church, I found two of the brethren conversing
politely with the ladies of my party. It was pro
posed that we should hear the fine organ of the
chapel play ; the noble instrument yielded some deep
tones, and involuntarily the heart, in silent worship,
seconded the solemn music of the church.
The gentleman who conducted me over the con
vent said that he wished to visit Paris and England,
I asked. Would that be permitted ? he replied, per
mission was occasionally granted to travel. The
speaker was about thirty-five years old, I ventured
to inquire how long he had been in the convent ; he
answered, with a sigh, twenty years, I remarked,
that his was a tranquil life. " True," he replied,
" but monotonous." It was evident that a listless,
apathetic humour possessed him. In this monas
tery, wasting their existence, were buried a number
of fine young men who might do honour to their
country, while they secured their own happiness.
With all the superior advantages of such a monas
tery as La Cava, I believe the inmates were and must
be unhappy. It seemed extraordinary that one of
these gentlemen should venture to express strong
patriotic sentiments, and an anxious wish for the
regeneration of Italy. I inquired. How did he ex
pect that to be accomplished? and heard the reply
with sorrow — By the French. After a lengthened
visit, refreshments were politely offered, and we

62 EXCURSION TO P^STUM.
departed highly pleased with our visit to this cele
brated monastery. On our return down the valley
by another route, we were enabled to appreciate the
beauty of the situation in which this convent stood.
A dashing river rolls past its walls ; wood and dell,
pasture and vineyards, surround it, and a mountain
rises opposite, covered with foliage, and dotted with
dwellings, which, in the distance, forms a bright and
charming aspect. There are agreeable walks in every
direction — a cool refreshing air prevails ; and there
are views as various and romantic as could be desired
by the enthusiastic lover of nature.
On the morning of the 13th February, we pre
pared for our excursion to Psestum. A carriage with
four strong horses abreast was procured, and at an
early hour we started. The country around Salerno
is fertile and pleasant — hills clad with olive groves,
orchards and corn-fields, gladden the eye ; but no par
ticular description can I venture to give of it beyond
the suburbs ; for a cold so intense set suddenly in,
that it was impossible to look out. The biting wind
which now blew, lasted exactly three days ; a short
period, but long enough to sweep off a section of the
population. There had been heavy rains recently,
and the rivers were swollen, with every prospect of
increasing from the melting of the snow on the
mountains. We reached the Sele, a turbid river,
over which there is no bridge ; consequently carriage
and horses, men and mules, are carried across in a
pont volant, a most unpleasant operation. Our grim
Charon growled forth, that if we were going to
Psestum, we had better return quickly, for should
the river swell, the boat would not stir.
We galloped away, the country becoming more and

RUINS OF PASTUM. 63
more desolate and waste : at last it seemed as if we
had reached a wilderness ; here our coachman, at a
distance of twenty-eight miles from Salerno, drew up.
What a contrast to the beauty and fertility of Sor
rento now met the eye ! so far as it could reach, lay
a dismal waste, seeming as if for ever withered by a
scourge from God. I looked towards the sea, and
between us and the ever blue Mediterranean, scarce
half a mile distant, stood the majestic ruins we longed
so much to behold. Ruins I ought not to call them.
Solid, massive temples rose up before our eyes ;
lodged in the ground so firmly, as to appear likely to
stand erect till the disruption of all things. At the
first glance I imagined them to be perfect, and
looked about for the grand city which they adorned,
and the crowds which thronged their sacred precincts.
Alas ! the city — the people, civilization, health, have
vanished! Unbroken solitude, wide-spread misery,
and pestilential malaria have succeeded. Here in
this scene of desolation are the grand and solemn
ruins of three temples, perfect except as to the roof ;
the piUars of such prodigious yet graceful strength,
as to bid defiance to the ravages of time. It is im
possible to behold this scene without a feeling of
awe ; these relics of a religion gone from the face of
the earth, stand as they stood 2,500 years ago. A
sickly guide conducted us ; a group of miserable,
half-naked mendicants surrounded us. Every body
we beheld wore the aspect - of famine and despair.
We proceeded to an inspection of the prodigious
ruins, during which the cold was so intense that no
degree of muffiing, even with exercise, could keep the
body warm.
The visitor is generally conducted first to the

64 TEMPLE OF HERCULES.
temple of Hercules, the largest, and standing between
the other two ; having seen with astonishment its
majestic grandeur, the others appeared comparatively
inferior. The impression produced by an examina
tion of the front of this temple is that of wonder at
the solidity and thickness of the columns, which
appear as if curtailed of their original proportions,
and crowded too much together. But the style is
Doric, and here we have the most perfect illustration
in the entire peninsula of the stern simplicity of this
order of architecture. The Greek taste must have
been severe when it preferred such erections. After
a little while, the air of heaviness wears away, and
the several parts of the noble structure seem to be all
in harmony with each other. The impression ulti
mately produced, is that which results from the con
templation of any object of sublimity. I believe the
columns in front are six in number, each twenty-nine
feet in height, sustaining a massive entablature more
than twelve feet high ; the diameter of the columns
nearly seven feet, the length of the temple less than
200 feet. There is an outer and inner division ; the
wall of the cell has fallen. Supporting the outer
peristyle is a range of the same Doric columns,
fourteen in number, at each side running in an exact
straight line towards the sea. All these majestic
pillars are perfect as when the Greeks in their day of
glory raised them. Having walked round the outer
range, we enter and behold what is termed the inner
peristyle ; here we have two stories of httle Doric
columns, one above the other, with an architrave
between them, nearly all perfect. The circuit of
this inner division, while it shows the smaller columns,
also by contrast exhibit? the strength and solid

TEMPLE OF CERES, 65
grandeur of the outer range. The walls and roof
have given way, but the Doric columns seem to be
immortal. When this temple was perfect without,
and filled with all its splendid decorations and shrine
within, what a brilliant spectacle it must have pre
sented !
The temple of Ceres is also a noble ruin ; although
inferior to that we have described, it is similar in
design and proportion. The third structure is called
sometimes a temple, again a basilica ; its precise use
has not been ascertained. It has nine columns in
front, and differs from the adjoining temples in this
remarkable respect, that it has a row of columns
right down the centre ofthe interior, parallel to those
in the side. This grand edifice has been named the
basilica ; but it has no resemblance to the shape or
form of the basilicas of ancient Rome,
The hours flew in the examination of these amaz
ing ruins, which, whether we regard their extent,
preservation, antiquity, style, or grandeur, are cer
tainly not equalled in Italy, and, it may be presumed,
scarcely excelled in the world, I ought further to
add the material of which the temples are built : —
a yellowish stone, known as calcareous tufa, a species
of porous limestone, generally found in the vicinity
of springs or rivers, which, although soft to cut, and
easy to extract from the quarry, has the valuable
property of becoraing hard from exposure to the air.
The preservation of these time-honoured reniains
has been further promoted by the circumstances, that
the situation of Paestum is remote, carriage difficult,
and stone more easily and cheaply procured from any
city elsewhere. It is unprofitable to follow the guide
in the examination of the city walls, and some other

66 ASSASSINATION AT P.S:STUM.
erections which present no definite idea to the mind.
Returning to the Albergo, we found it a filthy hovel,
occupied by a company of brigands in appearance ;
so retreating to the carriage we hastily took some re
freshment, while the beggars clamoured for food;
then escaping while daylight remained, re-crossed the
river, and reached Salerno late and heartily fatigued
by the day's exertions. I learned then for the first
time, that a guard usually attended parties to the
ruins of Psestum, in consequence 6f an Enghshman
and his bride having some ten years since been
plundered and murdered while on this excursion.
The assassins, who, I believe were stimulated by a
treacherous hotel keeper, were arrested and guillo
tined; and there is little danger now of brigands,
either at Psestum or elsewhere.*
We should not, in quitting Salerno, fail to remem
ber that it was celebrated as a school of surgery in
the eleventh century, especially at the memorable
epoch of the Crusade, when warriors, passing and
repassing between Europe and Palestine, brought
from the east the knowledge of medicine, and after
wards diffused it over Europe. In Salerno, the
healing art fell after a time into the hands of the
* The story related is the following : — The landlord of the inn at
Eboli caused the murder of a newly-married English couple on
their way to Paestum from his house, where they had rested the
previous night. The landlady related the particulars of this horrid
catastrophe to the writer and his friend a few months afterwards, and
took them to the refectory to see her murderous lord and master.
This man had obtained the king's pardon by making all speed to
the Eoyal presence to convict his accomplices ; andhappe'ned to leave
the palace at the moment when the British Minister was entering it
for the purpose of demanding justice upou the perpetrators of the
atrocity, of which he had just been informed. The delinquents,
excepting this wretch who contrived the scheme, were all executed.

AMALFI. 67
monks, who ruined it, as they do every thing with
which they meddle outside their convent walls. But
Salerno became memorable for a rhyming composition
on the preservation of health, oddly enough addressed
to Robert of Normandy, son of William the Con
queror. This poem, entitled Regimen Sanitatis Saler-
nitanum, passed through a variety of editions, and has
been recently republished at Oxford. We must
admit that the advice contained in the poem is excel
lent, and not the worse for being old. Salerno
would, at the present day, require skilful practi
tioners, for it is unhealthy. The bay is exposed, and
never will allow of commerce.
A pleasing excursion may be made hence by boat
to Amalfi, a town built beneath the mountain, of
which Sismondi writes, that it was " illustrious for
the foundation in the Holy Land of the hospital and
military order of St. John of Jerusalem, for the in
vention of the compass, and for the preservation of
the Pandects of Justinian." This notion of the
revival of the Roman law, from the alleged discovery
and seizure of a copy of the Pandects by the Emperor
Lotharius, at the siege of Amalfi, in 1127, is now
regarded as a fiction ; although it was stoutly main
tained by many, that all the copies of the Pandects
known in the world are derived from this one copy so
surprisingly picked up at Amalfi, then deposited at
Pisa, and afterwards carried in triumph to Florence,
where it was shown as a wonder. This story was denied
by able Italian writers of the eighteenth century ;
and, in our day, the history of Roman jurisprudence
has been written with consummate ability by Savigny,
who has extinguished all belief in what is rightly
described by the learned as the legend of Amalfi.

68 CONCLUSION.
I have thus, in a series of short excursions, endea
voured to take a survey of the most remarkable places
around the gay and brilliant city of Naples. My
feeble powers are unable fitly to describe a country
famous in classic history, and familiar to the scholar
through the imperishable creations of poetic genius.
Nor is it less difficult to bring clearly and truly undeir
the reader's eye those objects on which Nature has
stamped her everlasting beauty. I have, myself,
derived no small gratification from retracing scenes
which awoke pleasing associations, dispelled gloom,
inspired hope, and afforded matter for reflection
through life.

-A NEAPOLITAN ADVOCATE. 69

CHAPTER VII.
Disclosures of a Neapolitan Advocate. — The Criminal Code.— Courts
of Law and Administration of Justice in Naples. — Earwigging
the Judges.— Morality. — Crime, and Lawyers.— The Priests and
their Practices. — Is a Eeformation in the Church necessary at
Naples'!— Eevelations of a Neapolitan Nobleman.— The Tofana
Poison. — The Superstition of the Evil Eye. — Account thereof. —
Miracle of Saint Januarius. — Eeligious Toleration exemplified in
the Narrative of Facts relative to the Opening of the English
Church. — Eeflections.
Having been taught by experience the advantages to
be derived from conversations with lawyers in Rome,
I was anxious to become acquainted with an honest
and leamed member of the same profession in Naples.
Without some frank and competent legal guide, I felt
certain I should never arrive at a correct knowledge
of the virtues or vices of the legal and political system
in this country. My Oxford friend had, luckily, an
introduction to such a gentleman, of which I availed
myself. I cannot readily forget the first evening
I passed in the company of II Signor Avvocato —
the conversation turned on the originality of Milton's
conception of " Paradise Lost." The Neapolitan, in
correct, although somewhat antiquated English,
maintained that our immortal poet had borrowed from
an Italian poem which Milton had read during his
visit to Italy ; and insisted that not the conteption
only, but the chief characters of the " Paradise Lost,"
were taken from the heretofore unknown Italian

70 THE CRIMINAL CODE.
author — the truth of which assertion he declared
would speedily be seen from the translation of the
Italian poem, undertaken by an accomplished gen
tleman and scholar of our country. The advocate
was thoroughly acquainted with our language and
literature, and possessed, as might be supposed, a
liberal and enlightened mind. Having made known
my wishes to this valuable acquaintance, he undertook
not only to procure for me the amended criminal
code of Naples, but to explain its practical operation.
His sensible reraark was — Many things looked well
on paper which were, in reality, vicious in practice.
He feared there was much in the Neapolitan system
of civil and criminal judicature, which I must con
demn as heartily as he did.
Next day I had on my table a book entitled Leggi
della Procedura we' Giudizj penali contenute nella
quarta parte del Codici, per lo Regno delle Due Sicilie.
The volume contains not only the code of 1819, but
all additions and improvements since made, with a
brief commentary, the whole being published by
royal authority. Anything approaching to a rational
or consistent scheme of civil or criminal law, dates
from the reform of 1819.
The first book consists of what may be termed
police regulations, a phrase of wide signification in
continental jurisprudence, prescribing the mode of
lodging informations, and of preparing the criminal
process for the public trial or discussion. These pro
visions of the code are clear and methodical enough.
The duty of examining primarily, instruments of
crime, documents, witnesses, andthe accused, devolves
upon the Judge of Instruction, but it may be assigned
to one of the very judges who afterwards will sit on

THE CRIMINAL CODE. 71
the trial of the prisoner, who thus assumes the office
of Judge of Instruction. This is highly objectionable.
An amendment in the code of 1819, prescribes that
in this preliminary investigation the witnesses are not
to be sworn ; the oath, which is in our form, is re
served for the public trial, excepting only where
witnesses depose to matters of skill, or identify the
accused, and may not be again produced.
The result of this preliminary investigation is in
the mode defined in the twenty-eighth chapter of the
first book, transmitted immediately to the Supreme
Criminal Court, which within twenty-four hours deli
berates upon the matter in private. If the crime be
punishable with slight imprisonment, the accused will
be Uberated till the day of trial ; if the facts attested
in the statement do not legally inculpate the prisoner,
the Court will order his discharge forthwith ; if the
accusation be prima facie well founded, a warrant for
the detention of the prisoner is made out, and he is
committed to prison. If further inquiry be desirable,
judgment is suspended, A modified system of bail
is permitted, under the limitations prescribed in
Chapter III. These regulations are infinitely supe
rior to the barbarous provisions of the Papal Grego
rian Code.
When the trial is resolved on by Article 166, all
the preliminary investigations deposited in the Can-
cellariabecome public, that is, accessible to the accused,
his friends, and advisers. This is just. The prisoner
may select his advocate ; if he decline to do so within
twenty-four hours, one will be officially assigned.
Most continental kingdoms employ an advocate to
defend accused men who have not means to do so out
of their own resources. Exceptions to evidence — to

72 THE CRIMINAL CODE.
matters of form, are now considered by the judge ;
and experiments, as to detect poison or the like, if
necessary, are made in his presence, at which the
whole Court may assist, if the case should require it.
The cause is now ready for trial ; lists of witnesses
are then exchanged between the prosecutor and the
prisoner, accompanied with an exact description of
their respective professions and residence; the advocate
for the prisoner must sign his Ust. (See Article 195.)
I may observe, that this regulation seems rational,
and calculated to attain the elucidation of truth ;
each party has the means of inquiry afforded as to
the character and knowledge of the witnesses to be
examined on the trial ; and the trial does not resemble
a game of chance, as it sometimes does with us.
Certain persons are excluded from being received
as witnesses — namely, parents and children, brothers
and sisters, the husband or the wife of the accused.
This is, according to their ideas, in conformity with
the law of nature. The exclusion seems to apply to
all criminal cases, differing thus from the Tuscan Code,
Secondly, the informer, whose information has been
recompensed by money, is excluded ; and thirdly, the
defenders of the accused, whose knowledge of the
facts has been gained by the confidence reposed in
them. Every other objection goes to the credit of
the witness merely. If, before the trial, new witnesses
or facts be discovered, they may by the Court be
included in the process or statement pfepared for the
prosecution. A day is now fixed for trial by the
president, with the assent of the Minister of Justice,
an important functionary in Naples. The accused,
within twenty-four hours after notice of trial, may
apply, on reasonable grounds, for a postponement.

JURISPRUDENCE. 73
All witnesses in the list are summoned by the presi
dent ; should any refuse personally to attend, he must
pay the expenses created by his absence.
Chapter III. of the second book treats Della Publica
Discussione. — Article 219 is suspicious ; it permits
a trial to be had with closed doors, when a public
debate would offend good morals, or cause scandal or
inconvenience. It is also in the power of the Secretary
of State and Minister of Justice, for the reasons-
assigned, to order the trial to proceed with closed
doors. No doubt such a power may be greatly abused.
The succeeding article is equally objectionable, for it
gives the president power to permit a witness to be
examined in private — i. e. the pubUc are excluded
whenever the president may deem it expedient. If
the accused or the witnesses do not speak Italian, an
interpreter is formaUy appointed. The mode of con
ducting the trial is sensible, as laid down in the
subsequent articles. No witness can be called who
is not named in the Ust ; and those who have deposed
in the preliminary inquiry to matters of skill or expe
riments, or to the mere discovery of facts, and who
have been already sworn, need not be called — their
depositions suffice.
Witnesses under the age of fourteen are not sworn.
After each examination, the president asks the
prisoner if he wishes to reply to, or observe upon,
what has been proved ; but does not rigidly interrogate
him as in France ; no cross-examination is allowed —
the accused may put questions through the president
after a witness has been examined by the Court.
The Court, when all has been heard, caUs on the
public prosecutor to speak. The advocate for the
accused (Article 269) has the right expressly reserved
VOL. III. E

74 PUNISHMENTS,
of speaking last. This custom prevails in several
continental countries, and is not unreasonable. The
judges next deliberate in private, and. are bound to
consider questions of fact in a form prescribed, apart
from the legal considerations applicable to the case.
Both the crown and prisoners have an appeal to the
Supreme Court of Justice, but it must be exercised
by notice within three days from the pronouncing
sentence. Advocates, who by cavils and evasions
involve and delay the cause, may be admonished or
suspended by the Court.
With respect to the prisons — there are many good
regulations laid down in the third book of the code.
Article 595 forbids any gaoler to receive a prisoner
except under a warrant from one authorized to grant
it, and expressing on the face of it the cause of the
arrest ; an exact registry is to be kept by the govemor
of all prisoners admitted — with the dates of their de
tention and Uberation. There is a term of prescrip
tion fixed for the prosecution of crimes, from twenty
years to one year ; the greatest offences fall within
the longest term. With respect to the punishments
appointed, they are not very severe in general, al
though sometimes inconsistent — for example, to set
fire to a church devoted to the Roman CathoUc re
ligion is punishable with ignominious death ; the
punishment of strangUng is inflicted for destroying
or scattering the host. Stealing sacred utensils from
a church is punishable with thirteen or fifteen years'
imprisonment, a ring and chain of iron being attached
to the right leg. SteaUng the vessel with the host
in it is punishable with banishment to an island, and
hard labour for life. Whosoever, in teaching,
preaching, or haranguing in any way whatever in

POLITICAL OFFENCES. 75
public places, without any impious design, shall pro
pound dogmas contrary to the Catholic religion, shall be
punished by public censure, and by suspension for
one or two years from the office or profession he has
abused. If, however, the offender shall aim at the
impious object of subverting or altering the dogmas of
religion, he -wiU be punished by perpetual banishment
from the kingdom. The above is a Jesuit's law of
toleration ; no crime is more abhorred than that of
religious discussion. Blaspheming the name of God
or of the saints during worship or sacred ceremonies
is punished with imprisonment from two to five years ;
vvithout these circumstances of aggravation, the pun
ishment is from a month to six months.
The laws against poUtical offences are severe. The
foUowing enactment seems, however, not unjust:
" Whosoever, by discourses in public places, or as-
sembUes, or by printed placards or papers, shall have
directly provoked the subjects of the king to commit
any of the crimes previously prohibited, shall be sub
ject to the punishment appointed for the offence pro
voked by him," This seems to me a just measure of
retaUatiori ; a man who provokes to treason is fairly
enough regarded as a traitor, and punished as such.
Should any man contemptuously deface any image or
statue of the king or royal family set up in a public
place, he is liable to banishment for six or ten years.
Every discourse or writing, or act not expressly for
bidden, having a tendency to excite discontent against
the government, is punishable with imprisonment
from two to five years; there is of course a rigid
censorship over the press. Every Association, whether
literary or reUgfious, is unlawful unless expressly
permitted by the Govemment, and may be dispersed,
e2

76 COURTS OF LAW,
Every distribution of songs, pasquinades, figures or
images contrary to reUgion, to the government or
morals, is punishable with imprisonment or exile.
Capital punishments are chiefly confined to cases of
deliberate murder and treason.
The above outUne of the Neapolitan criminal code
affords a sufficient idea of its nature and provisions.
Upon the whole it is very much better than I expected,
being to some extent based on the Code Napoleon ;
the divisions, definitions, and enactments, are perspi
cuous and intelligible; and, apart from the despotic
principles asserted in ecclesiastical and poUtical cases,
the Neapolitan people would not have much to com
plain of, were the provisions of this code honestly
and impartially administered in all cases without ex
ception. Having examined the code, I felt prepared
for a visit to the courts of law, and arranged with my
friend the advocate accordingly.
The courts are situated in what resembles an
ancient castle, with lofty stairs and spacious halls :
when fairly inside the long public hall, the din, dust,
and heat were such that I could scarce recover my
composure ; a crowd of suitors and advocates and
people were squeezing up and down, and fighting
their way I knew not whither. The advocates were
continually exchanging bits of paper Uke notices; my
friend mentioned that many of these slips contained
proposals for settlement of disputes, as it was de
sirable to keep as many causes out of the tribunals as
possible. Elevated above the crowd sat a number
of clerks in boxes, who plied their pens busily ; the
professional men constantly thrust papers before these
scribes to copy. Having fought our way down this

COURTS OF LAW. 77
long crowded hall, we turned into another, off which
the courts branched. The tribunal not sitting at the
moment, the court was closed, and we stood in the
hall near a shut window. I asked my friend what
aversion they had to fresh air ? he replied, the
judges never opened a window, and that often the
heat was intolerable. However, he kindly admitted
the wholesome air on this occasion. I soon perceived
that the man next me had chains on his legs ; he was
a prisoner waiting outside to be tried, a handsome,
dark-eyed, young dissipated Neapolitan ; several rings
decorated his fingers ; his friends, including two
questionable looking women, were about him, and
there was much mirth among the party ; the guards
who lounged about joined in the merriment cordiaUy.
The court doors were now thrown open, and all
rushed in. Four judges were seated on the bench.
The prisoner described, with three others, stood in
the corner, and the prosecuting official advocate sat
at the end of the circular bench before the judges ;
I was introduced to this gentleman, and accommodated
with a seat beside him. The prisoners had been
condemned already, and were now tried a second time
for the crime of stabbing, committed in prison. The
charge was read, the crown prosecutor occasionally
inviting the attention of the Court to particular pas
sages in the process. The chief judge then inter
rogated the prisoners : on every reply given, the
advocate near me remarked, " That is a lie." I
inquired what was the use of questioning prisoners
in this manner, when it was evident they would,
in self-defence, speak falsely. He replied, questioning
was not generally resorted to, but for such a crime as
this committed in prison, interrogation was permitted.

78 THE LEGAL SYSTEM OF NAPLES.
The manner of the prisoners was flippant and inso
lent ; that of the speaking judge, loquacious and
undignified. He told the prisoners frequently he
knew they were telling lies ; and they in turn railed
at the judge. I inquired what might be the annual
income of the chief justice in this court. The official
advocate mentioned a sum equal to about 350/. of
our money. The puisne judges receive 250/.
The crown prosecutor courteously invited me to
attend a trial for a capital crime, to be held in a few
days in the large court, near where we sat. This, from
regard to health, I declined, and soon escaped, under
the pretence of visiting the other tribunals. The great
court alluded to was a splendid hall, fitted to accom
modate the crowd who invariably attended. Remark
able trials take place there.
Naples is overstocked with advocates ; and litigation,
contradistinguished from justice, prospers. Addison's
amusing description is applicable at the present day.
" It is incredible how great a multitude of refcainers to
the law there are at Naples. It is commonly said, that
when Innocent the Eleventh had desired the Marquis of
Carpio to furnish him with thirty thousand head of swine,
the Marquis answered him, — that for his swine, he could
not spare them, but if his holiness had occasion for thirty
thousand lawyers, he had them at his service. These
gentlemen find a continual employ for the fiery temper of
fche Neapolitans, and hinder them from uniting in such
common friendships and alliances as might endanger the
safety of the government. There are very few persons of
consideration who have not a cause depending ; for when a
Neapolitan cavalier has nothing else fco do, he gravely shuts
himself up in his closefc, and falls a-fcumbling over his
papers, to see if he can sfcarfc a law-suifc, and plague any of
his neighbours."

UNCERTAINTY OF NEAPOLITAN LAW. 79
In the evening, my Neapolitan friend began to
initiate me in the mysteries of the legal system. I
observed, " The public trial, the reverse of what
existed in Rome, must be a great protection in poli
tical cases." " Your first mistake," repUed the advo
cate ; " that code you read does not apply to political
cases. The poUtical offender is taken to a private
room, often in the palace, and tried before commis
sioners natned by the king in each case, two of whom
are generally household officers ; he may name judges
and advocates to assist. In fact, what becomes of
the political prisoner is not known ; his trial is secret,
and no part of the procedure is published, nor do
the ordinary forms apply to this class of offences,"
" That," said I, " is very bad." To which he subjoined,
"Nothing can be worse." Another abuse of a
startling character consisted in this : no person hold
ing office under the crown — that is, soldiers, police,
revenue officers, &c, can be sued for any wrongful or
oppressive act committed by them, unless a written
permission be flrst obtained from the king. " Thus,"
said my sensible informant, " although those officials
violate the code every hour, by arbitrarily imprisoning
innocent individuals, it is almost certain no redress
whatever can be had against them, for the king would
be sure to refuse admission to prosecute his officers.
The practice of the criminal law was only tolerable
in cases of commoii crime committed by the people,"
" Well," said I, " you are no doubt in a much better
condition in your administration of civil justice ?"
" Considerably worse," was the reply. " Why so ?"
" Owing to the uncertainty which prevails in our
tribunals," said the advocate, " it is almost impossible
for any man to make his will in this kingdom ; for

80 EARWIGGING THE JUDGES.
although he may conform to the law, which seems
precise enough, yet when the will is disputed, and all
the facts of the execution are examined into and
written on paper, an ingenious advocate will cavil
successfully, and the wiU may be, and is, frequently
overturned." " Then what is decided to-day furnishes
no precedent for the case of to-morrow ?" "I had
two will cases lately which exemplify this uncertainty.
Having in the first instance to maintain the formal
execution of a will, I failed, and an honest man's
will was set aside on a trifling protest ; in one week
after I had a will to attach on the same identical
grounds, and failed again. Reminding the judges of
their own decision on the former case, they answered
me by observing, ' They were older and wiser men
that week than they were the week before.' "
" Why did you not print the two decisions in
juxta-position ?" I asked. " Because we cannot here
print a law case in the civil courts without the leave
of the Minister of Justice, and he will not grant leave
when the judges desire him to refuse it; thus you
see what a system ours is." " Explain your mode
of proceeding in a common action." " A summons
is issued ; the evidence is all taken before a single
judge, who reports upon the whole case, and then the
matter is debated before the court. Thus the grand
object is to get the report of the single judge in your
favour ; on alternate days he sits in private, and while
the cause is pending, the respective advocates must
visit him in private and separately. This is the worst
part of our practice. I have often revolted against it ;
but unless I yielded to it, while the system continues
I should not have a single client. On one occasion I
remember meeting my adversary at the judge's door.

PICTURE OF SICILY, 81
and I pressed upon the judge to receive us together,
but he would not hear of it ; the old custom, he de
cided, must prevail. Unhappily, the salaries of our
judges are very small, and their expenses considerable;
they often borrow money from successfiil advocates"
— &c, &c.
All this was quietly stated by a man of strict truth,
and the conclusion I arrived at was that the judicial
sj'stem of Naples was a mass of corruption. With
respect to the effect of the NeapoUtan system of laws
and institutions on the moraUty and crime of the
people, the following details wiU assist the reader's
judgment : —
In Naples they reckon 13,047 births in the year,
and amongst them 2,164 illegitimate ; and in that
kingdom the proportion of illegitimate to legitimate
is as four to 100. The population of the city has
fluctuated within the last half century, but is now
beUeved to be 380,000, of whom 220,000 are declared
to be persons without any flxed employment. With
' respect to the state of crime, we may expect it to be
formidable, because we are now, as Mittermaer says,
" Where the heat of the sun turns to rankness all the
powers, bodily and intellectual, and also all the
passions free from all control ; the prejudices of which
country second the fierce irapulse of the passions
towards evil-doing." There were 4,104 sentences
pronounced in the tribunals, and 22,050 cases where
the crimes were not prosecuted, for want of evidence
or discovery of the guilty. There were before the
tribunals of correctional police in a year, 144,465
cases, of which only 32,297 offenders were convicted.
Amongst the serious crimes, were 115 of violence
against the government officers, 5 of parricide, 37 di
E 3

82 PICTURE OF SICILY.
conjugicidio, 21 of murder of relations, 15 infanticides,
9 of poisoning and attempts at poisoning, 134 pre
meditated homicide, 46 attempts at murder, 89 invo
luntary homicides, 482 stabbings, many horrible
crimes, 129 burning of houses, 75 thefts with murder,
1,700 robberies, &c.
The fickleness of the people in making charges
and withdrawing them is manifest from this, that of
88,358 prosecutions before the tribunal of correctional
poUce (in the year 1832), 49,904 were withdrawn by
the complainants. This arises from terror, threats of
vengeance, or false compassion. The number of
female criminals is comparatively small : there were
95 persons condemned to death in 1833. The picture
given of Sicily by the German professor is dark :
thefts innumerable — destitution — insecurity of pro
perty. As to murders, there are nearly 200 in a year,
and a great difficulty exists in procuring evidence ;
insomuch that the Procurator -General of Trapani
returned, that out of 34,214 persons summoned as
witnesses in the years 1838-40 in that single province,
1,277 were incarcerated for obstinate refusal to give
evidence. Trapani is by no means the woirst province
in Sicily. The ignorance of the Sicilians seems
deeper than that of the Neapolitans, insomuch that,
out of 315 persons accused in 1838 in Trapani, it was
discovered that only 1 1 could read and write.
My sagacious friend the advocate observed on
another occasion, that he had little hope of a real
reform in the political condition of the people, until
the bulk of the population was better educated.
Amongst the nobility — a numerous and impoverished
body — are some who, he declared, could not sign a
legal document. The lazzaroni class were sunk in

ECCLESIASTICS. 83
ignorance, while amongst the professional and middle
classes were a great number of able and reflecting
men, alive to the ignominy of their condition, but
not seeing any practicable means of extrication.
Our next conversation was relative to the priest
hood, in which my Oxford friend took an active part.
The number of ecclesiastics of all sorts (some 10,000
or 12,000) in Naples, naturally attracts attention, and
we inquired of the Neapolitan advocate in what the
utility of such an army of priests consisted ? He
quietly repUed, " For the business to be done, we
have not priests enough." " How can that be ? "
" I will explain," said he briefly : " if all the ecclesi
astics in Naples were engaged from morning to night,
they could not say even half the masses for the dead
which they ought and are bound to say." This
statement surprised us exceedingly. The advocate
resumed : " The population of Naples is immense,
and there is hardly a family the members of which
have not for a long course of years bequeathed sums
of money to ensure the saying of masses for the
repose of their souls. In process of time the number
of masses to be said in one year has accumulated to
such an amount, that now 10,000 priests could not
say them. A principal source of revenue to the
priesthood is derived from legacies often charged on
land bequeathed for these purposes. These charges
are recognised and enforced by our tribunals, and it
will sometimes happen that in two or three genera
tions the greater part of the rents of a moderate
property will be appropriated to the payment of the
priests for saying the appointed masses for the dead.
This actually occurred in my own case : the rents of
my small paternal property were so appropriated.

84 MASSES FOR THE DEAD.
But the Pope will never permit the priesthood to
abstract more than one-half the annual rental, or one-
third ; and if the successive gifts for masses for the
dead by successive owners of a patrimony swallow up
the proportion mentioned of the rents, there is a
mode of proceeding which I myself adopted to
obtain redress. A memorial is prepared to the Pope
containing a statement of the property, claims upon
it for masses, and residue applicable to the support
of the family. If his hoUness thinks the residue too
limited he increases it, fixes the sum for the priests,
and remits his judgment to Naples, where it is
received in the law courts, and has the effect of re
ducing the amount of the charge on the land.
"With respect to the masses for the dead, said and
unsaid, a tabular statement is also submitted to the
Pope each year ; and he, taking into consideration all
the circumstances, pronounces his decision that the
masses remaining unsaid shall be considered as said,
and so they are accordingly. This short cut is
equally effective, and the priest is paid for the ser
vice he could not physically perform, which is not
unreasonable." While the advocate gave this expla
nation, I thought I remarked a sceptical smile play
ing around his face, but he expressed no disbelief
whatever in the doctrine. The statement, however,
placed the doctrine of masses for the dead in a very
absurd point of view, for it might come to this : If
several million masses were to be chanted for the
deceased, then the greater part of the living would
be occupied in singing masses for the dead, while
every duty of consolation, advice, and education
towards the living must be unfulfilled. And this
literally happens in Naples ; for with 90,000 ecclesi-

ACQUA TOFANA. 85
astical persons throughout the kingdom, and 10,000,
including monks and friars, in the capital, the ma
jority of the population are sunk in ignorance and
superstition. The statement of the advocate affords
a practical refutation of the dogma so beneficial to
the priests. A fearful question it is to put': What
have the 90,000 priests, monks, friars, and nuns,
done for the education of the Neapolitan people ?
They have been, are, and must be, until reformed,
the great obstruction to the enlightenment of the
popular mind ; and if that mind ever be enlightened,
it must be despite their influence. With respect to
morals, notwithstanding the ceremonials of religion
are celebrated with frequency and splendour, Naples
is admitted to be one of the most profligate capitals
in Europe ; and I grieve to add, questions are some
times put to passengers in the streets of this brilliant
city, calculated to make a man start with horror.
In former times, the ladies of Naples hit upon an
ingenious device to rid themselves of tiresome hus
bands. A deadly liquid poison was invented, called
Acqua Tofana, which lay on the dressing table of these
affectionate wives, undistinguishable from perfumes to
an ordinary observer, and was made use of unscrupu
lously, as occasion required, to dispatch a trouble
some spouse. The inventor of this fatal poison was
an infamous old woman, named Tofana, who com
pounded from a common herb a liquid, limpid as
rock-water and without taste, which grew into gene
ral use with jealous or intriguing wives, as a ready
means to dispatch their husbands. Tofana was
executed in Naples in the 18th century. An anti
dote has been discovered in lemon juice, which has
lessened the value of the poison.

86 THE EVIL EYE.
The most singular superstition of modern times in
Naples, is that connected with "the evil eye;'" it is
very prevalent and generally beUeved. I flrst heard
of it in an account given of a ball, at which an un
pleasant accident occurred which broke up the party
at once. While the gay folk were enjoying them
selves, suddenly a large lustre, that had been well
secured in the moming, fell down with a crash : this
excited some attention, but the cause was quickly
discovered. A Neapolitan nobleman had shortly
before arrived, notorious for the faculty of exercising
the evil eye. The company cast significant glances
one at another, and glided away lest some more dis
agreeable occurrence should take place. The person
who narrated this anecdote firmly believed in the in
fluence of the evil eye, and that the lustre fell in
consequence of its exertions.
This superstition, or something akin to it, is cur
rent in many countries. It is pretty generally under
stood, that some persons have the power, by casting
a malign look at you, to give you cramps, tooth-ache,
a sUp of the foot between two flag-stones, bankruptcy,
the murrain amongst your cattle, the miscarriage of a
wife, the death of a child ; in short, any of the ills to
which flesh is heir. Strange it is, to find this super
stition prevalent even in the great desert of Sahara,
Richardson, in the second volume of his travels in the
Sahara, speaking of the Moors and Arabs in one of
the little towns in the midst of the great desert, says —
" With the outspread hand menacingly raised, a man or
woman puts their enemy under the ban and curse of God.
A vulgar interpretation is, that it means ' fire in your
eye ;' but this custom of cursing is so remote, as not now
to be explained. The door-posts and rooms of houses are

THE EVIL EYE. 87
imprinted with the outspread hand to prevent or withstand
' the eye malign' from glancing on them and the inhabit
ants its fatal influence."
This power of fascination is known in Naples by
the title "jettatura," and when any person believed
to possess it enters a room, none but the ignorant or
foolhardy will remain. Curiosity prompted me to
inquire if any book was published on the subject of
this national superstition, and I found one, entitled
" Cicalata sul Fascino, volgarmente detto Jettatura, di
Niccola Valetta."
that is, A chat or familiar talk on the subject of fasci
nation by the evil eye, commonly called jettatura ; the
work of Nicolas Valetta. Then follows this motto, —
" Felix qui potuit rerum cognoscere causas."
The contents of the chapters are exceedingly di
verting : —
"1. If a man cannot attain to understand jettatura, this
is not because it is not true.
2. By the word fascination and jettatura, I do not mean
anything diabolical.
3. But a natural evil influence.
4. Etymology of fche words ' fascino' and 'jettatura.'
5. The notion of 'jettatura' is very ancient.
6. As appears from a passage of Gellius.
7. And .from the story of Priapus, who was esteemed a
divinity serviceable against jettatura,
8. The Greeks believe in jettatura,
9. The Komans believe in it.
10. The ancienfcs believe in ifcs proceeding from words.
11. And from the eyes.
12. And from words and eyes together.
13. And from contact.

88 THE EVIL EYE.
14. St. Paul perhaps believed in jettatura.
15. An interesting case in the middle ages.
16. Modern facts indicafced.
19. Jettatura is either open or secret.
20. The open kind proceeds from the physiognomy of
men. 21, The argument of antipathy.
23. Various sentiments as to the cause of antipathy and
of sympathy.
23. The argument of the agitation of the fancy.
24. Whence come the diseases of mind and of body.
25. That some produce them by their aspect, some by
speech, and some by a malign look.
26. Or severally. The open kind proceeds from effluvia.
27. The argument from fche analogy of fche effluvia of
plants. 28. And of brute animals.
29. And generally of influences between bodies.
30. Secret jettatura.
31. Ifcs potency.
32. How jefctafcura is fco be discerned and avoided.
33. The winding up.
34. A proposal."
This last chapter is of a piece with the rest of the
performance, and accordingly I translate it fully. I
do not think this publication is considered as a piece
of irony, but as an essay on a very serious subject.
It speaks highly for the character of the education
prevalent in Naples.
" I reserve myself to add a sort of makeweighfc to my
pennyworth ; fchafc is, fco offer in anofcher paper the explana
tion of many things appertaining fco this subject, which, in
this, I have not been able to clear up, partly for fear of
finding myself at fault, and partly constrained by the diffi-
* This is argued from Galatians iii. 1.

THE EVIL EYE. 89
culties of the time : chiefly, the points following, upon
which, besides the reflections made by myself, I require
lights and hints from any one whatsoever : offering a re
ward of ten or twenty crowns, according as the information
shall be considered by me more or less interesting : —
'A Proposal.
' 1. Whether man or woman have most power of the
evil eye.
2. Whether one who wears a wig, have it largely.
3. Whether one who wears spectacles.
4. Whether a pregnant woman.
5. Whether monks, and of which order.
6. Whether one who approaches us after any harm
which we have sufi'ered, has a peculiar power of the evil eye.
7. To what distance the influence of the evil eye
extends. 8. Whether it can proceed from things inanimate.
9. Whether it works mostly at the side, in front, or
behind. 10. What gesture, what voice, what eye, and what cha
racteristics of countenance are appropriate to those who
have this faculty, and enable one to recognise them.
11. What ejaculatory prayers ought to be recited, in
order to preserve one fi-om the evil eye of the monks.
12. What words, in general, must be rehearsed as a pre
servation against the evil eye.
13. What efficacy, in this respect, has hom, or any other
commodity. ' And, in fine, a distinct list of aU persons proved to have
got the power of an evil eye, within the city and the king
dom of Naples ; of all orders and ranks of society : — esquires,
ladies, judges in the several courts, advocates, cathedral
dignitaries, doctors, gentlemen, tradesmen, artizans, &c.
Whosoever has sure experience in this matter, concerning

90 ST. JANUARIUS.
any one, will be so kind as to impart it to me, without
expecting for such service the aforesaid reward, which is
to be considered as promised to those who supply me
wifch any suitable reflections on the points above men
tioned.' "
We have referred to the miracles of Filomena,
pubUshed in Florence — they are nothing compared
to the miracles wrought in and around Naples. Se
veral of these fables are too gross for repetition ; but
the 'famous miracle of St. Januarius requires to be
specially noticed. I arrived in Naples the day after
the miracle was performed in the cathedral, and
conversed with several who were present on the
occasion. The reader is perhaps aware of the nature of this
performance. The skull and bones of a man dead for
centuries, are brought into the church and placed
opposite a phial which is said to contain some of the
blood, in a congealed state, of the same dead man ;
and the fiction is, that the juxtaposition of the dry
bones and bottle makes the blood to liquefy miracu
lously. Thousands of credulous spectators behold
the miracle with implicit beUef ; and the moment in
which the bottle, handled by the priest, shows the
blood to Uquefy, is hailed with rapturous delight by
the people. The king, the whole court, and nobles,
attend in brilliant state on the first of January, when
the liquefaction is sure to take place. In reference to
this ceremony, deliberately acted in the nineteenth
century, in the house of God, and in a poUshed capi
tal of Christian Europe, I had a curious conversation
with a young nobleman connected with the court
This conversation was not sought by me, nor held under
any the least confidence ; it sprang out of a domestic

ST. JANUARIUS. 91
occurrence not necessary to detail. The portion
material to the purpose of disclosing truth, I give.
The conversation began by the Neapolitan thus : —
" Believe me, Signor, the Catholic religion is the
best in the world." — Answer : " I am glad to hear
you say so ; sincerity in our belief is of the utmost
importance. Since you introduce this topic, may
I ask what is your beUef as to the miracle of St. Jan
uarius ? " The NeapoUtan replied without a moment's
hesitation : " I believe it to be an imposition, of
course!" "Does any man of your rank in Naples
believe it ?" " Not one," he replied. " Permit me then
to inquire, how do you justify witnessing the imposture
and appearing to sanction what you know to be false ? "
He coloured slightly, and then gave a reply never to
be forgotten by me. " Signor, you are a stranger,
and evidently unacquainted with the state of things
in this kingdom. There exists a compact between
the government and the priests, each to support the
other in their abuses. The priests will sustain the
govemment so long as it sustains them ; and when this
imposture is acted, it is part of the bargain that the
king and the court shall attend, and so must I, and
every one who holds a place under the king, be pre
sent — ^for if the nobiUty and sovereign were absent,
the people might suppose this proceeded from un
behef — therefore the priests insist on ,'our presence ;
but you mistake in supposing this has anything to
do with the Roman Catholic reUgion."
The same nobleman spoke frankly of the intoler
ance of the court. " Nothing," said he, " would induce
me to change my reUgion. I firmly believe it to be
the best ; but if I did change my faith, I should not
only lose my situation and my property, but / should

92 THE JESUITS,
of necessity fly the country." This intolerance he pro
nounced to be detestable. Of the Jesuits he spoke
with more than usual severity. He declared there
was nothing they would not do to maintain the ex
isting despotic system, and to my inexpressible amaze
ment, narrated this anecdote : —
" Six young men in Naples had engaged in a political
combination, to which none were privy but themselves —
they were all suddenly arrested at the same moment.
Having been faithfal to each other, they were puzzled to ac
count for their arrest ; but at last they remembered that their
confessor was a Jesuit, and their doubts were removed."
I give the story exactly as I heard it — a mistake
or misconception it may be ; even if so, it only shows
the feeling entertained towards that body of eccle
siastics by firm believers in the Church of Rome.
In reference to the miracle of St. Januarius, assum
ing it to be an imposture — and a frank CathoUc writer
has written a pamphlet to prove how the deception
is contrived — what are we to think of the ministers
of religion, who in the house of the God of truth
knowingly and deliberately represent a falsehood,
and do so to deceive and mislead a credulous and
superstitious people ? The palliation offered for the
continuance of this imposture aggravates the crime.
It is excused on the pretext that the ignorant popula
tion of Naples might break out into tumults of dis
order, should they not behold this national miracle in
honour of St. Januarius, under whose special pro
tection they beUeve themselves to be. Ignorance so
gross excites our indignation against those who have
sunk the people in such a depth of degradation, and,
having sunk, strive to keep them there. Nor is it

PERFORMING THE MIRACLE. 93
true that such a superstition is harmless ; we have a
signal proof to the contrary. When the French in
vaded Naples, their general, Championnet, while he
derided the fraud, availed himself of it to impose on
the Neapolitans the belief that the French were
favoured by heaven, and accordingly ordered the
priests to do the miracle of St. Januarius forthwith.
They, through fear, complied. The Neapohtans
flocked to the church, and when liquefaction took
place, they declared that it was plain that the French
were a misrepresented and very pious people : thus
were they reconciled to the invaders of their country.
This is narrated in the Memoirs of General Pepe,
himself an enlightened Roman Catholic and Neapo
Utan, and who struggled for the Uberation of his
country. It might be not unsuitable to inquire from the
Oxford converts, what effect such a spectacle as that
ofthe miracle of St. Januarius ought to produce upon
a reasoning Christian. Does an abuse so flagrant
require reformation ? If it does, why will not the
ruling authority in the Church of Rome reform it,
when the power to reform is omnipotent ?
These impostures are such as no one dare attempt
in Roman Catholic Bavaria or France; yet they
flourish under the eyes of the rulers of the infallible
church. But the existence of those gross abuses
proves the necessity of reformation ; nor is it enough
to say, you may or you may not believe these marvels,
and continue a Roman Catholic. I am convinced that
millions of Roman Catholics disbelieve them ; but the
question for Protestants to consider in self-defence is.
Ought they to embrace the Italian Church which tole
rates — nay, openly sanctions, gross fictions ? Roman

94 RELIGIOUS TOLERATION.
Catholic writers have fairly commented on the absur
dities of certain Protestant sects, and cite the example
of Johanna Southcote to prove the grossness of the
fanaticism into which professing Protestants have
run. Doubtless, this is true ; and it is to be lamented
that schisms have rent the Church, and that impos
tures have been resorted to by wild sectaries ; but
how is the Church of England to be blamed for these
scandals ? Tolerant she must ever be ; but what
delusion has she practised ? what falsehood openly
taught ? which of her temples has been disgraced by
the awful exhibition witnessed in the cathedral of
Naples on St. Januarius's day ?
It is needless to discuss what reUgious toleration
exists in Naples — there is not a shred. The priest
hood is supreme, and whosoever dares to express his
thoughts on a religious subject in opposition to Rome,
must fly. Curiously enough, while the government
has progressed towards free-trade, it has retrograded
in religious toleration ; formerly marriages might have
taken place between Protestants and Catholics, by the
parties going to Malta or elsewhere, and being there
united, the law of the place of the marriage being
recognised in Naples ; but as several such marriages
occurred, the priests took alarm, and got a new and
barbarous law (as the advocate described it) passed,
by which no marriage in the kingdom is valid unless
registered ; and no registry can be had without pro
ducing to the registrar certificates from a priest, of the
parties having subscribed to, and received the sacra
ments of, the Church of Rome. A mixed marriage,
as the law now stands, is impossible unless by a dis
pensation from the Pope himself. Thus are the affec
tions of the heart crushed.

ENGLISH RESIDENTS. 95
The English have a place of worship in Naples,
and an occurrence took place respecting its establish
ment, a few years since, which exhibits in perfection
the genius of this detestable government.* The num
ber of English residents in Naples being very great,
it was found desirable to have a suitable church ;
accordingly subscriptions were liberally put down, and
it was resolved to build one. Application was kindly
made to the government by the British ambassador,
and the permission was granted, as beUeved, to open
a place of Protestant worship, on the terms that the
building should not have the external appearance of
a church. The ground was procured, materials col
lected, and the foundation laid by the ambassador
himself. The day after, an order was issued to stop
the erection of the church ; on inquiring the reason,
it was answered, that the Archbishop of Naples would
not permit it to be built. A long correspondence fol
lowed, which ended in the NeapoUtan government
declaring, that although the English could not have
permission to build, yet if they chose to procure a
room and fit it up as a church, they should not be
interfered vnth. The ground was therefore sold at a
considerable loss, and a room taken for a term of years,
and fitted up as a church. No interference on the
part of the government occurred until the place of
worship was about to be opened, when they again
informed the English that the Archbishop would not
allow an heretical church in Naples, and that they
could only have service in the house of the ambassador
or consul. The Enghsh were therefore obliged to
* I have a written paper from an English gentleman resident in
Naples well acquainted with the matter, giving me the particulars
of this affair.

96 CULTIVATION OF LAND.
take a house for the consul in the same place with
the church, in order to comply with the requisition of
the govemment. The result in point of expense
being, that instead of paying 700 ducats a year, the
English residents are obliged to pay 1,900 ducats
(330^.) yearly, that they may be permitted, in the
enlightened kingdom of Naples, to worship God on
the sabbath-day according to their consciences. Such
was, and is, the toleration extended to the subjects of
England, who squandered millions to preserve the
throne of Naples for the bigoted family who occupy it.
The existing dynasty is protected by the bayonets
of 10,000 Swiss soldiers, even in the capital ; in all
probability, these mercenaries are hired because native
troops dare not be trusted. In 1821, the NeapoUtan
army revolted against the grandfather of the present
sovereign, who having sworn to preserve the free con
stitution then set up, violated his oath, and restored,
by the help of Austrian bayonets, his ancient tyranny.
It gives hope of the educated Neapolitans to remem
ber, that when iu power during the last revolution
they were not cruel in their conduct, nor extravagant
in'their views — they asked what was very reasonable,
although the form of constitution estabUshed by the
liberal party was the clumsy Spanish system of 1812.
It is also a very interesting fact, that during the sit
tings in 1821 of their short free parliament in Naples,
the debates were conducted with talent and elo
quence, and with a degree of order and propriety
which pleased and surprised the English spectator.
A happy omen, it may be, for the future, should the
march of events restore liberty to this unfortunate
yet beautiful country.

AGRICULTURE. 97

CHAPTER VIII.
The Agriculture round Naples j with a Short Account of its bene
volent Institutions. — Expenses of Living. — Brief Eemarks on the
Principle of the Papal Government viewed as a Political System,
suggested by the death of Pope Gregory. — The obsequies of Gre
gory XYI.— The Election of Pius IX.
Every inch of the land between Capua and Naples
is cultivated to the highest perfection, yielding the
grape, corn, and vegetables in profusion — exactly the
reverse of the aspect ofthe cpuntry approaching Rome.
I inquired by what tenure this beautiful garden
was held, and was informed that it is usually let on
very short leases, and generally in small parcels.
Some proprietors prefer letting their whole property
to a sort of middleman who sublets it in divided
portions, but the owners generally prefer the small
tenants. The quantity let to each varies from five to
eight moggie, say from four to six EngUsh acres ; and
the leases are for two, four, six, or eight years. The
reason of the lands being let on terms of two years at
the least is, that the vines, it is observed, bear, alter
nate years, good and bad crops, and therefore, to obtain
an average, the lease must be for two years. Although
the farms are so admirably cultivated, the men who
labour do not look, and are not, comfortable or pro
sperous. Their dwellings are poor, for necessarily
their capital must be small, although they produce
largely. VOL. III. F

98 HOSPITALS.
For the foUowing account of the benevolent insti
tutions of Naples I am indebted to my friend Doctor
Strange, the excellent resident EngUsh physician of
Naples. " The number of hospitals in Naples is eleven, of which
eight are civil, two military, and one naval.
"1. Civil Hospitals. — The largest of these is the
Incurabili, which, as its name denotes, was originally in
tended for fche reception of such cases as were considered to
be incurable, or had failed to be cured in the other hospitals ;
and even till lafcely ifc was infcended for the reception only
of chronic cases ; an adjoining monastery (the Consolazione),
having however been added, acute cases, as well as those
which require surgical operations, are admitted. This
hospital can now accommodate 1,700 patients — viz. about
1,000 men and 700 women, in the public wards ; and
besides these there are a number of private rooms, into
which patients are received on payment of fifteen ducats
(about 21. 10s. sterling) a month, for which sum they are
provided wifch medical and ofcher afcten dance, as well as food
and medicine. There are also attached to this hospital, two
establishments in the country — one for convalescents who
require a change of air, and the other for those who take
baths, in the autumn, of the lees of wine, or husks of the
grape : a kind of bath much employed here in chronic rheu
matism, and partial paralysis. The yearly income of this
hospital is about 120,000 ducats,* or 20,000Z. sterling, of
which 18,000 are derived from the duty on articles of
consumpfcion introduced infco Naples, 6,000 ducats more are
levied from pharmaciens (apothecaries), and the remainder
arises from bequests of private individuals. To fchis
hospifcal are atfcached twenfcy-one senior physicians, and ten
senior surgeons, besides sixteen physicians, and fourteen
surgeons' assistants.
* Increased lately to upwards of 130,000 ducats.

HOSPITALS. 99
" 2. The hospital of Santa Maria di Jorcho will accom
modate 500 patienfcs — 300 men, and 200 women ; the
medical duty is performed by twelve physicians and eight
surgeons. This is a very well regulated hospital, and is sup
ported chiefly from the funds of the poor house, of which it
may be considered an appendage.
" 3. The Hospital of San Francesco is chiefly for the
reception of sick convicts, and is maintained entirely by
government. The average number of patienfcs here is
about 420, and the number treated annually about 3,000.
" 4. The Hospital of Santa Maria della Fede is for the
reception of females of one description. Ifc is supporfced by
government, out of a particular fund ; and the annual
number of admissions is about 2,500.
" 5. The Hospital of Sant' Eligio is solely for acute dis
eases. There are about thirty on an average in the hospital,
and about 300 treated annually.
" 6. The Pellegrini is maintained by a religious body or
society of this name : it is solely for accidents, and is very
clean and neafc.
" 7. The Hospifcal della Cesarea is supported partly by
bequesfcs and partly oufc of the funds of the Albergo dei
Poveri, or poor house. It has two physicians, two surgeons,
and the same number of assistants.
" 8. The Hospital della Pace is maintained at the ex
pense of the monastery of San Giovanni di Dio, and the
sick are waifced on by these monks : it is only for the recep
tion of acute cases, and about 1,300 are treated annually.
In all these eight hospitals, it is calculated that about
20,000 are treated annnuUy, of which number about
12,300 are discharged and 2,230 die.
" Of the military hospitals, the largest is that of Trinita
Maggiore, which has beds for 1,200, but rarely contains
more than 700 ; about 6,500 are treated annually.
" The Ospedale del Syramento, which may be said to
be a branch of the former, has beds for 400, but has rarely
f2

100 POVERTY  MORTALITY.
more than 300. Number treated annually may be reckoned
at 1,900.
"The naval hospifcal at Piedigrotto has 400 beds, but
usually under 300 patients. These military and naval
hospitals are of course supported by government.
" Of the charitable establishments, (ospizii,) or what the
French call hospices, the largest is the Albergo dei Poveri,
which contains from 5,000 to 6,000 poor, of all ages and
of both sexes : they are maintained, and the children are
educated, partly from funds bequeathed, and partly at the
expense of government. The Annunziata, or foundling
hospital, contains about 2,000 children. San Gennaro dei
Poveri contains about 800 old men. San Francesco di Sales
has about 600 beds for lame or deformed women. The Blind
Asylum has 200 beds. Ospizio di Santa Maria del Arco
has about 300 old people ; and lastly, the asylum for
invalid soldiers, which contains aboufc 800 persons ; this
was formerly near the castle of St. Ehno, but has within
the last few years been removed to Massa."
There is an immense mass of poverty and destitution
in Naples, but the provision in the way of hospitals,
and houses of reception for the poor and sick, is
superior to what one might, under such a governinent,
be prepared to expect. Perhaps, however, it will
generally be found, that where the government affords
to the people the least facilities for helping themselves,
it has felt itself obliged to supply the largest amount
of eleemosynary assistance. The mortality of this
city is great, and the mode of burial of the poor re
pulsive, although not quite so horrible as formerly;
the executive having been shamed into making some
improvements in the public cemetery. There is,
however, little reverence for the dead in Italy.
With respect to the cost of living, Naples is an
expensive capital, especially for those who reside a

POPE GREGORY XVL 101
short time only; because house rent is very high.
To those who make it their permanent abode, and
understand the habits of the people, and the language,
the expense will (wise folk say) be about one half
that of Uving in London. June, 1846.
On my journey to the Tyrol I heard the news of
Gregory the XVI.'s death, an event of vast importance
at the*epoch in which it happened. Would the change
of Popes be for good or for evil ? It is a painful re
flection how different the political rule of the Popes
has been from what we might expect. The Pope,
chosen from the college of cardinals, is generally a
man advanced in life, supposed to possess learning
and virtue, to be free from pride, and adverse to
profligate or corrupting pursuits. One might suppose
such a sovereign, selected on the score of personal
merits, pecuUarly fitted to promote the happiness of
his subjects. The idea, moreover, of sanctity attached
to the character of the Pope, adds to his power of
doing good ; and the union of absolute authority over
Church and State in his hands, would appear to re
move the chief obstacles which impede the execution
of the benevolent designs of less absolute princes.
As we read that the virtuous despotism of the Anto
nines over the empire was the best government the
Roman world ever saw, so might we naturally expect
the government of an absolute apostolic king to be
the noblest over the Christian world.
The reverse has unfortunately proved to be the
fact; the dominions of the papacy have been noto
riously ill-governed ; the inhabitants are miserable.
The vice of the system seems to consist in the per
sonal character of the govemment. The sovereign

102 THE PAPAL GOVERNMENT.
being elective has no connexion with his predecessor,
nor care for his successor ; nor can he guess who that
successor may be. Possibly the new Pope may be in
every respect the opposite of his predecessor. The
whole administr'ation changes with the Pope ; the
enlightened Cardinal Consalvi fell with Pius VII,
A new sect of ministers and officials come into power,
whose chief business it is to grasp what they can
during the brief tenure of their political existence.
Love of country, or disinterested patriotism, is not
even pretended to ; profound dissimulation, and un
bounded selfishness, characterize the papal court. No
man's real disposition becomes known till he has
clutched his prize : then his true nature becomes
manifest, A political government of this description
is fraught with incalculable evils ; the people, their
interests, liberties, and happiness, become the sport of
scheming adventurers, hypocrites, or bigots ; and if
occasionally a statesman of capacity and honesty, as
Consalvi, appears, he is beset with difficulties, and
ultimately overthrown. Such a political system could
not be reformed ; it must be radically changed.
While this uncertainty, however, prevails in the
political department of the papacy, the ecclesiastical
department continues unchanged — managed on a
principle apparently unalterable. This is essential
to the maintenance of the papacy, in which all have
a common interest; therefore, while the poUtical
government is a mere personal matter, the spiritual
rule of the Propaganda is conducted in a consistent,
resolute course. If it were not, and were to change
with the humours of the Pope for the time being, the
whole system would quickly fall in pieces. Nor is
it uninteresting to remark the same men showing

THE PAPAL GOVERNMENT. 103
vigour and ability in preserving and managing their
ecclesiastical government according to fixed rules, and
yet evincing the most hopeless incapacity for the
management of political affairs. No poUtical govern
ment could sustain itself when administered by indi
viduals such as those who mismanaged in every depart
ment the papal dominions under the deceased Pope.
It appears from the fourth book (vol. ii, ch, i,) of
the Count de Tournon's work, that the papal govern
ment is really most complicated in its machinery.
The author traces this compUcation to the union of
three distinct offices in the Pope — namely, 1st, that of
supreme pontiff; 2d, bishop of Rome ; and 3d, of
temporal king. The cardinal secretary of state, the
Cardinal Camerlengo della Santa Chiesa (appointed
for life, and who assumes the government on the
decease of a Pope), the treasurer-general and governor
of Rome, and all prelates, are the chief officers engaged
in the poUtical administration. The seventeen dele
gations are governed by cardinals. " The priests,"
writes the Count, " seize all public employments.
There is an official person, ca;lled senator of Rome,
who represents the ancient senate in which Cato
spoke. This farce is very ridiculous. I do not touch
on functionaries who rule the ecclesiastical matters.
But the interesting part of the chapter referred to is
the latter portion of it, which explains what most
people are ignorant of, that there was a municipal
system in the papal states, really calculated to give
the people control over their local affairs. The large
towns were entitled to have a municipal council of
48 members — ^lesser towns, 36 or 24— villages under a
thousand inhabitants, 15 ; nominated at first by the
sovereign, afterwards renewed by the council, and

104 THE PAPAL GOVERNMENT.
chosen from all classes of the people, nobles or
farmers. The council were to make out a list, from
which the govemor of the province was to select the
local magistrates. This council ought to have had
the assessment and disbursement of all local taxes
and expenses, such as police, the doctor, the school
master," &c.
The Count de Tournon fairly subjoins this remark
to his statement of the municipal system :
" Ce mode d'administration municipale, ^videmmenfc
emprunte au systSme Fran9ais, 6tonnera ceux qui croient
que dans les Etats du pape tout est soumis k I'arbitraire et
au bon plaisir. Sans doute les abus de pouvoir y sont
communs ; mais la loi ecrite y est plus favorable h, la liberty
qu'on ne le croit communement."
Whatever may have been the theory, I understood
the people in the Roman states were stripped of all
municipal privileges or authority, under the rule of
Pope Gregory; let us hope they may regain their
just rights, and extend their Uberties, under the reign
of his successor.
Much has been written about the present Pope;
he is the astonishment and delight of Italy. The
stately ceremonies observed on the death of his pre
decessor, and on his own election, are so graphically
described in the subjoined letter from an Italian lady
in Rome to her English friend in Switzerland, that
I cannot deny myself the pleasure of translating it for
the gratification of the curious. " Rome, July 16«/j, 18i6.
" Pregiatissima Signorina, — I have received your
charming letter with much joy, but I grieve in re
peating to myself these words of your letter, ' Perhaps

DEATH OF POPE GREGORY. 105
I have seen beautiful Italy for the last time.' I cannot
beUeve it. I will never, never abandon the hope of
meeting you again. As you have expressed a wish
to have some information respecting the obsequies of
the deceased Pope, as well as of the solemnities
attending the installation of the new pontiff, I wil
lingly comply with your gracious request, though in
a few words, since a suitable detail would require
other talents than mine.
" About the hour of nine o'clock in the morning of
the 1st of June ult. Pope Gregory XVI. ceased to
live. In the afternoon of the same day, the cardinal
Camerlengo went with mourning equipage to" the
Vatican palace, there to inform himself of the death
of the sovereign. On arriving, he immediately un
covered the face of the corpse, which was concealed
by a veil, and with a golden hammer he softly struck
the temples, and having assured himself that it was
death, he ordered that it might be registered by the
notary present. On leaving the Vatican, he found,
according to ancient usage, the Swiss guard drawn up,
and their captain addressed to him these words, * Chi
ci paga ?' (Who pays us ?) To which the Camerlengo
replied, ' Vi pago io,' (I pay you.) They then formed
into two files, and accompanied him to his palace,
whereupon he became Vice Sovereign. Immediately
on his arrival he ordered that the great bell of the
Capitol should announce to the inhabitants of Rome,
by means of thirty-three tolls, the death of the Pope.
To this bell all those of the numerous churches of
our country pealed forth their echo.
" Imagine how my poor head then suffered !
" Two days after, the body of the deceased Pope was
exposed to view in the Sistine Chapel, dressed in the
F 3

106 CEREMONIES CONSEQUENT THEREON.
pontifical robes, with the papal cap upon his head,
surrounded by the guard of noblemen habited in
mourning, which was also worn by the entire garrison
of Rome. The third day he was removed into St.
Peter's Church, where he was placed upon a stage or
platform, and a solemn requiem chaunted. After
wards he was taken into the DapeUa del Sacramento,
his feet stretched out and uncovered, in order that
the people who flocked thither might kiss them. He
remained there three days, and about seven o'clock
on the evening of the third day, he was buried with
great pomp, in the presence of all the cardinals. The
following morning, which was the sixth from his
death, the Church of St. Peter was opened ; in the
midst of it there was erected a splendid mausoleum
of a square form, with four doors of the Egyptian
order; within this was placed the sepulchral urn,
covered with funeral drapery, and visible by the sub
dued light of a taper; on the four sides were four
colossal statues, representing Justice, Power, Wisdom,
and Charity, besides four immense cornucopias filled
with candles. Over the mausoleum thus described,
there was raised an octagonal tablet of stone, on which
were inscriptions and allegorical bas-reliefs, and above
this a pedestal which supported a large statue repre
senting ReUgion, This mausoleum remained exposed
for three days, Saturday terminated the Novendiali.
Thus are termed the obsequies, because they last
nine days,
" The Sunday following, being the 14th day of June,
at six in the afternoon, the cardinals in great pomp
went in procession into conclave. On the evening of
Monday the 15th, a rumour was circulated through
out Rome, that the new Pope had been elected. On

ASSEMBLY OF CARDINALS, 107
the morning of Tuesday the 16th, the piazza of the
Quirinal presented a magnificent coup d'oeil. The
sky was most beautiful, the piazza crowded with
people, the troops drawn up in array, and all with
their faces turned towards the balcony. At nine
were heard the blows of hammers breaking down a
window that is ordinarily built up. Shortly after,
the Cardinal Camerlengo appeared with the bearer of
the crucifix, and announced to the people the exalt
ation to the papacy of the cardinal, who took the
name of Pius IX, The populace responded with
shouts of joy,
" But what a surprising spectacle ! At that moment
the new Pope appeared on the balcony ; the uproar
of the people, who threw aloft their handkerchiefs
and hats, the waving of banners, the ringing of bells,
the firing of artillery from the Fort of St. Angelo,
the continual discharge of cannon, the sound of the
trumpets of the military bands, combined to produce
an unusual emotion of joy and surprise. The Pope,
quite overcome, blessed the people in tears, and then,
transported by the sight of so much exaltation,
stretched out his arms in token of thankfulness for
the kind feeling evinced by the people. Thus ter
minated that wonderful scene, in which nothing was
wanting, Carissima Signorina, but your dear self.
"In the afternoon of the same day, the Pope
went to pay a visit to St, Peter's. On his arriving
at the bridge of St. Angelo, the governor threw down
the chain which closes up the barrier. The banners
were raised amidst discharges of artillery ; proceeding
to the piazza at St. Peter's, which was crowded with
troops and people, he passed through thc midst of it

108 SERVICE AT ST, PETERS,
with solemn pomp. Arrived at the church, he ad
mitted the cardinals to an embrace, thence he returned
to the Quirinal, and thus the day terminated. The
following Sunday, with the same procession, he went
at eight in the morning to St. Peter's, and ascended
to the haU called the HaU of Vestments, where he
robed himself as Pope with all but the triple crown,
in lieu of which he had the mitre ; and proceeded by
the pontifical court, and by the sacred college, he was
carried in a chair down the stairs of Constantine, as
far as the porch of St. Peter's, where a throne was
erected, which the pontiff ascended, and admitted the
canons of St. Peter's to kiss his knee. After this,
the Cardinal Mattei, archpriest of this church, de
livered a discourse, in which he submitted to the Pope
his authority in the said church, and begged him to
enter and chaunt the papal mass. The Pope then,
reascending the chair, was accompanied by the same
procession into the church. No sooner had he entered,
than the Cardinal Mattei presented ^him with a purse
of crimson velvet, containing two scudi and a half,
pronouncing these words in Latin, ' Pro Miss^,' (for
the mass.) Then the Pope went into the chapel of
San Gregoria, where he alighted, and seated himself
on a throne, one being here also erected ; and having
disrobed, he arrayed himself in other vestments, and
added a jewel in the middle of his breast, a symbol of
ecclesiastical sovereignty. Afterwards he intoned the
third Psalm, which was chaunted with sweetest music
by the whole choir of the pontifical chapel. After
which, ascending the chair anew, the pontiff was car
ried to the tribune, where he alighted and changed
once more his dress, as did also the cardinals, and

CHARACTER OF THE POPE. 109
began the ceremonies of the papal mass ; which being-
finished, he robed himself afresh, and, with the mitre
on his head, attended by the flabelli, or fan-bearers,
and followed by all the diplomatic corps in full uni
form, he ascended to the balcony, where, in order to
give the benediction, a magnificent throne was pre
pared, in which the Pope seated himself. The vice-
deacon chaunted certain prayers, and afterwards, in
the presence of the immense concourse of people
congregated on the piazza, and of all the troops, who
formed a square, he took the triple crown, ascended
the throne where the Pope was sitting, and crowned
him. At this act, all the people waved their hand
kerchiefs, and shouted with joy ; the band struck up,
military banners waved amidst the bayonets of the
soldiers, and the fort of St, Angelo fired salutes with
its artillery. Had you been present, how you would
have enjoyed this exciting scene !
" In the evening, Rome seemed as it were a ball
room all illuminated. On the piazza of the Pincio
were two full orchestras, playing the finest pieces of
music. On the Piazza del Popolo, Prince Torlonia
had a grand display of splendid fireworks. Thus
ended the ceremonies ; nothing remains except one,
the Taking Possession, which is reserved for the
autumn. With regard to the character of the new
Pope, I will say nothing else than that he is a verit
able angel come down from heaven for the benefit
of the miserable. He has sold a great many of his
horses, and given the money to the poor. The
Pope's table, which formerly cost fifty scudi a day,
he has reduced to only two scudi and a-half; and, in
like manner, he has curtailed every expenditure of

110 CHARACTER OF THE POPE.
the household, in order that he may bestow the
money on the poor, and lessen the debts of the state.
He gives public audience to all ; he has signed a per
mission for railroads ; in fine, we hope to see Rome
restored to a new life. In another letter I wiU tell
you all that takes place, and whether our hopes are
realised. " You will permit me, my dear lady, to subscribe
myself your true and affectionate friend," &c. &c.

GENOA. Ill

CHAPTER IX.
Geneva la Superba.— Dr. Arnold's eloquent Description. — The Har
bour and the Heights. — Climate.— Aspect of People.— Priests and
Monks. — The Scientific Congress. — An Italian Parliament. —
Eegeueration of Italy now probable. The Formation of an Italian
Empire contemplated. — The Literary Men of Italy. — Writings of
Manzoni ; their Tendency favourable to the Italian Character ; his
Poetry ; Traiislations.^Eosetti's proscribed Ode. — Political Views
of the principal Literary Men iu Italy. — Ambitious Projects of
Charles Albert. September and October, 1846.
In the month of September, 1846, I found myself
for the second time in Genova la Superba, the appro
priate epithet applied to the once triumphant queen
of the sea. Venice and Genoa, prosperous and free,
and owing their wealth and greatness to their wide
spread commerce, forcibly remind the British traveller
of his own country, her commerce, name, and power,
diffused throughout the world. Here a company of
. merchants, possessed of unfruitful rocks, without
territories or extensive population, through commerce
and a high spirit of enterprise, became princes of the
earth. " In the fourteenth century," writes Gibbon,
" the Roman empire (I smile in transcribing the
name) might soon have sunk into a province of
Genoa, if the ambition of the republic had not been
checked by the ruin of her freedom and marine
power." The splendid city now presents an aspect
of faded grandeur; its beautiful palaces are too large.

112 DR. Arnold's DESCRIPTION.
and their decorations too rich, for the fortune of their
present occupants.
But the bright gulph, the mountains, the whole
scenery towards La Spezzia, afford a combination of
objects unparalleled, even in this favoured region. In
one of Dr. Arnold's lectures on Modern History,
there is an eloquent passage descriptive of Genoa,
which I think most felicitous : — " Some of you, I
doubt not, remember Genoa ; you have seen that
queenly city with its streets of palaces rising tier
above tier from the water, girdling with the long
lines of its bright white houses the vast sweep of its
harbour, the mouth of which is marked by a huge
natural mole of rock, crowned by its magnificent
lighthouse tower. You remember how its white
houses rose out of a mass of fig and olive and orange
trees, the glory of its old patrician luxury ; you may
have observed the mountains behind the town,
spotted at intervals by small circular low towers, one
of which is distinctly conspicuous, where the ridge of
hills rises to its summit and hides from view all the
country behind it. Those towers are the forts of
the famous lines, which, curiously resembling in shape
the later Sjrracusan walls enclosing Epipolse, converge
inland from the eastern and western extremities of
the city, looking down the western line on the valley
of the Polcevera, the eastern on that of the Bisagno,
till they meet, as I have said, on the summit of the
mountains, where the hills cease to rise from the sea,
and become more or less of a table land, running off
towards the interior, at the distance of between two
and three miles from the outside of the city. Thus
a very large open space is enclosed within the lines,
and Genoa is capable therefore of becoming a vast

CLIMATE. 113
entrenched camp, holding not so much a garrison, as
an army." *
To feel the force of Arnold's description, should
the traveller enter Genoa by land, he must take an
opportunity of rowing out to sea for a mile or two,
and there enjoy the exciting prospect spread before
him. Nor ought he to omit referring to the descrip
tion of Genoa from the inimitable pen of Mr. Dick
ens, by far the most striking sketch in his " Pictures
from Italy." The climate of Genoa is not unhealthy,
but cold, and partaking too much of our northem
sharpness for pulmonary invalids to endure through
out the winter.
With respect to the harbour, which is about a
mile and a half in length, facing the south, and is pro
tected by two moles running across from opposite
extremities, leaving a space of more than half a mile
between them, I had a striking example of its in
security. When the wiud blew from the south, the
sea rushed in with tremendous force ; and a fiue ship
was wrecked in our view within the harbour. An
English steamer, from the lucky circumstance of
having her steam up, escaped the like fate, and got
behind the old mole. The gulf has long been
celebrated for storms and scarcity of fish. Addison
imagined the fish did not care for inhabiting such
stormy waters. " Atrum
Defendens pisces hiemat mare."
I cannot say I would wiUingly select Genoa for a
winter residence ; independently of climate, it be-
* The account of the memorable siege of Genoa, in 1799, and the
moral reflections on the blockade by the English, are worthy the
humane and noble character of Dr. Araold.

114 ASPECT OF PEOPLE.
comes irksome to be obUged to clamber up precipices
every day, and no common strength is required to
take ordinary walking exercise in so extraordinary a
city, where narrow passages leading to the heights
are nearly perpendicular.
The streets are narrow, houses six stories high, the
shops and lower apartments dark and gloomy; and
the best chambers being generally the uppermost,
you may reckon one hundred steps ere you reach the
goal. Strangers wisely fix their residence opposite
the harbour, to command a view of the bay ; you
must ascend fifty steps before you can see over the
splendid promenade raised on arches, built of white
marble, stretching along the edge of the harbour, and
affording the most agreeable lounge at certain pe
riods of the day. This promenade cannot be endured
when the sun shines brightly, for the glare caused by
the rays of the sun on the white marble is not tole
rable. In the evenings and mornings this walk is
crowded ; when the Genoese women, so modest in
appearance and graceful in figure, move about ; their
dress admirably calculated to impress the traveller's
eye, from its elegance and yet simplicity ; their muslin
robe displays the shape, and a long white veil, or
scarf, called pezzotto, falling from the head over the
shoulder, shades, but does not conceal their delicate
beauty. Bonnets are rare, and certainly I have never
seen a female dress more becoming. The men are
plain ; the merchants immersed in business, and
crafty. A proverb says. The Genoese have a sea
without fish, land without trees, and men without
faith. Every second person you meet is either a
monk or a soldier. The town swarms with these un
productive members of society. It is calculated that

THE SCIENTIFIC CONGRESS. 115
there are 1800 lusty monks in and around Genoa ;
attached to the cathedral of San Lorenzo alone, are
fifty-six priests. The churches are, some, externally
curious, all very rich, but decorated in bad taste. The
Strada Nuova, lined with stately palaces, " looks as
if built for a congress of kings." The mere sight-seer
may be satisfied with these splendid edifices and their
rich contents, but the inquiring traveUer will not fail
to visit the many excellent benevolent institutions
in and around Genoa, and above all, the Deaf and
Dumb Institution, under the management of a pious
priest, one of the most interesting establishments I
ever examined.
Few capitals possess public gardens so situated as
those in Genoa. Elevated on the heights, the view
from the platform, of the gulf, of the wooded moun
tains covered with smiling habitations, and of the
beautiful country towards the Riviera, is various and
magnificent. Hence the stranger may prosecute his
walk round the fortifications, an excursion of some
length, no less novel than delightful.
I arrived in Genoa just as the Scientific Congress,
which began the 14th September, was breaking up.
The papers of the Congress were procured at the
University, and an Italian gentleman explained to
me much that passed in the sections which did not
appear in the proceedings as published. The business
was conducted in ten separate sections. That which in
cluded agriculture and statistics was termed " Sezione
di Agronomia e Tecnologia," The proceedings of this
section resembled those of a parliament convened to
discuss every question of interest to the inhabitants of
the whole peninsula of Italy — the vintage, the harvest,
the failure and disease in the potato crop, the corn

116 AN ITALIAN PARLIAMENT,
laws, the currency, the state of crime in Italy, the
benevolent institutions which existed or ought to
exist, the education of the people in all its branches,
and the whole subject of railways. These important
matters were separately debated with ability and
boldness. It was impossible to stop the mouths of
the speakers, but the censor clipped their eloquence
when the printed proceedings were laid before him.
Sometimes he cut out a sentence, then a liberal quo
tation, and now extinguished an entire speech. A
member dwelUng on the vast influence of popular
instruction on popular morality, concludes "with the
sublime sentence of a modern writer" — then follows
the black mark  of the censor, blotting out
the sentence quoted. Upon'a representation made to
govemment, the quotation suppressed was on a sub
sequent day allowed to be printed. It is, " Education,
and not the cannon, will for the future be the arbiter
of the destinies of the world." An excellent senti
ment — may it prove true 1
Orally, the members expressed the justest views
respecting Italy, her present condition and future
prospects. The papers read were suffered to be print
ed, especially when the authors lavished praise on the
King of Sardinia. For example, II Signor Canale, an
advocate, read' a clever paper on the ancient naviga
tors of Genoa, the adventurous spirits who "prepared
the way for the stupendous conceit of Columbus,"
and concluded by a thanksgiving for living in times
when sovereigns contended with a noble emulation
for the improvement of their people, adding, " I al
lude to his Holiness Pius IX. and the King of Sar
dinia, the union of which two names may perhaps
unravel the secret of the future destinies of Italy. If

OPINIONS PROPOUNDED THEREIN. 117
Italy, this ancient mother of nations, united at last
under the Majesty of one great empire, inspired by reli
gion and by valour, shall recover its lost commerce,
she wiU not assuredly be wanting in hereditary glory,
and may regain the power for which she has so long
sighed." The idea of forming Italy into one great empire,
including in it the project of expelling the Austrians,
is a favourite notion pervading several classes of the
people ; and there can be Uttle doubt that Charles
Albert desires to rule that brilliant empire, and there
fore permits to be spoken what he wishes to have
done. Upon the subject of free-trade, several mem
bers spoke out very boldly. II Signor Conte Fieschi,
enraptured with the Corn-law League, read a paper
in which was broached the idea of establishing in
Italy an association to advance the principles of free-
trade, similar to the societies which had existed in
England. This proposition excited a lively discussion,
in the course of which Signor Mancini enforced the
necessity of concentrating in Italy the powers of all
right thinkers to accelerate the triumph of the prin
ciples of free-trade and commerce. He observed,
that in Tuscany only was this principle not merely
carried into practice, but sustained by the public
sentiment ; whereas in aU the other States of Italy,
governments were in advance of the people, and con
sequently the question of free-trade was ill under
stood, receiving only the applause of men educated
in the science of political economy. He wished to
present it in its most simple form to the people,
"Z>o nations profit by abundance or famine?" It is
an undoubted fact, that free-trade principles have
made but Uttle real progress throughout the penin-

118 PROBABLE REGENERATION OF ITALY.
sula, and are not Ukely to be quickly adopted by
the mass of the people. A variety of other subjects
of national importance, especially the Education
question, were handled in a masterly manner by the
members. There is in Genoa a nobleman, the Marchese
Lorenzo Pareto, of ancient family, liberal principles,
and literary taste. On the day of distribution of
certain prizes awarded by the Scientific Congress, this
nobleman delivered a discourse in which he spoke on
the " vital genius of Italy." " Its bent was, he
maintainedj to progress in science and literature ; but
it had not advanced, not because genius was wanting,
but because the mind of Italy was in chains, educa
tion was circumscribed, Uterature only encouraged by
the Grand Duke of Tuscany and the present Pope."
He then denounced the method of education the
Jesuits wished to introduce, in order, he said, " to
keep down the human intellect," This bold address
was received with loud applause, but suppressed by
the censor. Upwards of a thousand members at
tended this very important congress.
The proceedings of such an association have been
alluded to because they form no mean part of the
stirring history of Italy in the present day. Here
may be seen the subjects which engage the minds of
her distinguished men, embracing propositions moral
and political, the right solution of which, with their
practical application, must deeply concern the happi
ness and liberty of the peninsula. Having analyzed
these proceedings, it struck me that the regeneration
of Italy was nearly certain ; and that if the members
of this intellectual parliament should succeed in
breaking down the miserable divisions which separate

MANZONI. 1 1 9
one Italian state from the other, and in consolidating
the opinion of the whole country on practicable and
worthy objects, it would not be in the power, nor
would it be the interest, of rulers to resist longer all
the improvements which enlightened opinion would
demand ; and the belief then might not be extrava
gant, that Italy, which once ruled the world by the
empire of her power, and afterwards by the empire
of her genius, and which dazzled the middle ages by
her brilUant republics, recovering her lest energies,
might again delight, instruct, and illuminate the
nations. It may not be uninteresting to refer briefly to the
writings of the remarkable authors who have figured
in Italy of late. They have accomplished much for
their country, and in an honest fashion. Their writings
breathe a patriotic, moral, frequently a religious spirit;
a commoii agreement seems to pervade them, while
they write in favour of national union, reform, liberty ;
to repress the violent passions, which, if excited,
might render these great blessings worthless. Fore
most amongst these is Alessandro Manzoni, descended
from a daughter of the celebrated Beccaria, and con
nected with the most eminent Italian authors of the
age. His Uterary labours have been labours of love.
The general impression left on the mind of the reader
of the " Promessi Sposi," is in favour of genuine
religion, of piety, and charity, and in disparagement
of formalism and hypocrisy, I have heard that the
world is indebted for this celebrated romance to the
suggestions of Lady Morgan, who expressed to Man
zoni much surprise that no historical romance had
been attempted in Italy, a country whose history
abounds in startling incidents and extraordinary

120 WRITINGS OF MANZONI.
events. This romance, if it may be so called, has
had, from the date of its pubhcation, a run of success
in Italy ; yet it is wholly different from the style of
Scott, the beautiful creations of whose genius have
been the delight of our Italian brethren.
Manzoni is unconnected and episodical, but ex
quisitely pathetic. He moves the human soul from
its depths. Several of his chapters are scarcely to
be equalled for tenderness and beauty, while in his
powerful description of the plague, which desolated
Milan in 1630, he is declared to have reached Thucy-?
dides, and excelled De Foe. In the thirty-fourth
chapter there is a touching description of a mother
adorning her beloved child, (who has perished in the
plague,) for removal to the common bier.
The tendency of the writings of Manzoni has been
doubly beneficial; calculated to engender in the ItaUan
heart a spirit of patriotism, to stigmatize the folly of
those jealousies and animosities which used to set
the states one against another, and led to their sub
jugation to transalpine potentates. The second aim
of Manzoni's writing has been to inspire in the
minds of his Roman Catholic brethren just concep
tions of pure religion. A devout Romanist he may be,
but tolerant, sincere — I had almost said, evangelical.
He represents the Roman Catholic religion under a
very sweet and pleasing aspect ; but while he beUeves
all its chief doctrines, he manifestly disbelieves the
miraculous fables invented by scheming monks and
impostors ; and, as if to show their absurdity, has in
troduced an amusing passage in his third chapter
respecting a pretended miraculous growth of walnuts.
The writings of Manzoni were well calculated,
although not so intended, to prepare the way for the

HIS POETRY. 121
downfal of absolutism both in Church and in State.
I have heard that many years after the " Promessi
Sposi" had established itself as the most popular
book in Italy, the Jesuits, sensible of its influence,
and apprehending it would open men's eyes to the
difference between themselves and their creatures on
the one hand, and the benevolent Cardinal Borromeo
so beautifully portrayed on the other, proposed to put
the work in the list of libri proibiti, but were over
ruled, lest such an act of despotism might create a
rebellion against the *' Index" in toto ; however they
announced to Manzoni that his book would be sup
pressed, unless he would write something to prove
himself a sound Romanist. Whereupon, it is said,
he published an essay to prove the beneficial influence
of Romanism, as compared with the Gospel amongst
Protestants, on the social and political condition of
raankind. The exact title was " Sulla Morale Cat
tolica." This performance ranked him amongst the
orthodox, yet the more initiated thought they per
ceived, that he held opposite conclusions from those
therein advocated. There is something more stirring
and vehement in " II Carmagnola,^' a tragedy of Man
zoni's, into which he has infused a lofty patriotic
spirit. Carmagnola was a noted captain of the Me
diseval Codottieri soldiers in the service of Venice,
entrusted with a command in the wars with Milan.
He was victorious, became suspected, was inveigled
to Venice, and condemned to death. The plot gives
fine occasion to inveigh against civil strife, and to
inculcate a national patriotism for all Italy.
The following pungent chorus, bitter against the
foreigner, (Austria,) while it denounces intestine war,
VOL. in. G

122 WRITINGS OF manzoni:

affords an exceUent specimen of the style of writing
which has kindled a flame of liberty throughout
Italy. Along vrith it I give a spirited translation in
Il Caemagnola. — Atto ii. Sc. 6.
I.
S'oDE a destra uno squillo di tromba
A sinistra risponde uno squillo ;
D' ambo i lati calpesto rimbomba
Da cavalli e da fanti il terren.
Quinci spunta per I'aria un vessillo,
Quindi un altro s'avanza spiegato :
Ecco appare un drappello schierato ;
Ecco un altro che incontro gli vien.
II.
Gia di mezzo sparito e il terreno ;
GiS, le spade rispingon le spade ;
L'un deir altro le immerge nel seno ;
Gronda il sangue ; raddoppia il ferir.
Chi son essi ? AUe belle contrade
Qual ne venne straniero a far guerra ?
Qual e quel che ha girafco la terra
Dove nacque far salva, o morir ¦?
III.
D'una terra son tutti ; un linguaggio
Parian tutti ; fratelli li dice
Lo straniero ; il comune lignaggio
A ognun d'essi dal volto traspar.
Questa terra fu a tutti nudrice
Questa terra di sangue ora intrisa ;
Che natura dall' altre ha divisa,
E recinfca coll' Alps e col mar.
IV.
Ahi ! qual d'essi il sacrilege brando
Trasse il primo il fratello a ferire 1

HIS POETRY. 123
English verse, written at my request by my distin
guished friend. Dr. Anster, the poetic translator of
"Faust."

I.
On the right a trumpet sounds !
On the left an answering blast !
Right and left, while earth rebounds.
Hear you not, approaching fast.
Tramp of horse and warrior's tread 1
Here a banner's folds in air
Flash : a rival flag outspread
Leads an arm'd battalion there !
II.
Lo ! the narrow space between
Hosfc and host, as now they close.
Shrinks : and swords on swords smite keen,
Blood flows fast, and fury glows.
Which the strangers, say, who spoil
This the loveliest land of earth ?
Which the children of the soil
Warring for their place of birth ?
III.
All are of one land, and all
Speak one language : every face
. Tells one lineage : strangers call
All, brethren — children of one race.
This land above all regions blest
Hath nourish'd all — fair Ifcaly,
Whom Nature sacred from the rest
Hath cinctured with fche Alps and sea.
IV.
Which first hath bared the traitorous knife
To plunge it in a brother's heart ?
G 2

124 WRITINGS OF MANZONI :
Oh terror ! Del conflifcto esecraDda
La cagione esecranda qual' S 1
Non la sanno ; a dar morte, a morire
Qui senz'ira ognun d'essi § venuto ;
E venduto, ad un duce venduto.
Con lui pugna, e non chiede il perche.
V.
Ahi sventura I Ma spose non hanno,
Non han madri gli stolfci guerrieri 1
Perchfe tutte i lor eari non vanno
Dair ignobile campo a strappar ?
E i vegliardi, che ai casti pensieri
Della tomba gi^ schiudon la mente^
Che non tentan la turba furenfce
Con prudent! parole placar I
VT.
Come assiso talvolta il villano
Sulla porta del cheto abituro,
Segna il nembo che scende lontano
Sovra i campi che arati ei non ha :
Cosi udresti ciascun che sicuro
Vede lungi le armate coorti,
Eaccontar le raigliaja de' morti,
E la pietS. dell' arse cittk
VII.
La, pendenti dal labbro materno
Vedi i figli, che imparano intenti
A distinguer con nomi di scheme
Quel che andranno ad uccidere un di :
Qui, le donne alie veglie lucenti
Dei moniii far pompa e dei cinti,
Che alie donne deserfce dei vinti
II marito o 1' amanfce rapi.

HIS POETRY. 125
And in the sacrilegious strife
What prompted him to take a part 1
They know not — they : — their blood is cold.
Hirelings, they come to kill or die.
And, to a leader's bondage sold,
Strike as he bids, and ask not why.
V.
Alas ! alas ! have they no wives 1
No mothers ? Is there none to shield
Those warriors 1 must they spill their lives
Thus on this ignominious field 1
Old men, whom shadows of the grave
Soothe and sublime, have ye no charm
Or fcranquillizing words, to save
And stay the fratricidal arm ?
VL
As from his peaceful door the hind
Marks, undisturb'd, the tempest cloud
Sail far away upon the wind,
And fall on fields another plough'd :
Thus will you hear the idle train
Of gazers on these warrior hands
Tell o'er the tale of thousands slain,
And cities burn'd and ravaged lands.

There on his mother's heart, the boy
Aheady names with scorn and hafce
The enemy whom to destroy
Shall be, he trusts, his future fate.
A lover's gifts — what bright display —
Bracelet, ring, zone — these ladies show.
In plunder'd cities tom away
Prom shrieking sisters of the foe !

126 WRITINGS OF MANZONI :
Vin.
Ahi sventura ! sventura ! sventura !
GiS. la terra § coperfca d'uccisi ;
Tufcta § sangue la vasta pianura ;
Cresce il grido, raddoppia il furor
Ma negli ordini manchi e divisi
Mal si regge, giS, cede, una schiera :
GiS, nel volgo, che vincer dispera,
Della vita rinasce I'amor.IX.
¦ Come il grano lanciato dal pieno
Ventilabro nell' aria si spande ;
Tale intorno per I'ampio terreno
Si sparpagliano i vinti guerrier.
Ma improwise terribili bande
Ai fuggenti s'affaccian sul' calle ;
Ma si senton piu presso alie spalle
Soalpitare il temuto destrier.
X.
Cadon trepidi a pi§ dei nemici,
Eendon I'arme, si danno prigioni :
11 clamor delle turbe vittrici
Copre i lai del tapino che muor.
Un corriero & salito in arcioni ;
Prende un foglio, il ripone s'awia,
Sferza, sprona, divora la via ;
Ogni villa si desta al romor.
XI.
Perche tutti sul pesto cammino
Dalle case, e dai campi accorrete ?
Ognun chiede con ansia al vicino,
Che gioconda novella reco 1
Donde ei venga, infelici, il sapete,
E sperate che gioja favelli ?
1 fratelli hanno ucciso i fratelli :
Questa orrenda novella vi do.

HIS POETRY. 127
VIII.
Woe! woe! in weltering lakes of blood ;
Where'er you gaze are heaps of slain.
Hark ! is the battle strife renew'd 1
Hark to that thrilling shout again !
A wilder and more thrilling shout ! —
An agony of fiercer strife ! —
They shrink — they yield — in frenzied rout
They fly— oh God !— they fly for life.
IX.
As from the winnowing fan, the grain
Leaps scatter'd on the breezy air.
So might you see by warrior men.
The flying clouds move here and there.
But here and there, where'er they fly,
They fear or fancy forms of death ;
Hear from behind the enemy.
And feel his panting courser's breath.
X.
And, trembling, at the foeman's knee
They fall — they yield their arms — they cry
For quarter — shouts of victory
Drown the faint wail of those that die.
A courier to his saddle leaps.
Folds his despafcch — in swift career
Devours the road — on, on he sweeps,
And anxious cities start to hear.
XI.
Why to the highway rush ye so.
Crowding from city, hamlet, dell ?
Why seek ye each from each to know
What pleasant news can any tell ?
Know ye not from what fatal plain •
He comes ? what tidings can ye hear
But woe — by brothers brothers slain.
And flight and desolation drear 1

128 WRITINGS OF MANZONI :
xn.
Odo intoino festevoli gridi ;
S'orna il tempio, e risuona del canto ;
GiS, s'innalzan dai caori omicidi
Grazie ed inni che abbomina il cid.
Giu dal cerchio dell' Alpi frattanto
Lo straniero gli sguardi rivplve ;
Vede i forti che mordon la polve,
E li conta con gioja crudel.
Xin.
Afirettatevi, empite le schier^
Sospendete i trionfi ed i giuochi,
Eitomate alie vostre bandiere ;
Lo straniero discende ; egli § qui.
Vincitor ! Siete deboli e pochi ?
Ma per questo a sfidarvi ei discende ;
E voglioso a quel campi v'attende
Ove il vostro fratello peri.
xrv.
Tu che angusta a' tuoi figli parevi,
Tu che in pace nutrirli non sai.
Fatal terra, gli estrani ricevi t
Tal giudioio comincia per te.
Un nemico che ofieso non hai,
A tue mense insultando s'asside ;
Degli stolti le spoglie divide ;
Toglie il brando di mano a' tuoi re,
xv.
Sfcolfco anch' esso ! Beata fu mai
Gente alcuna per sangue ed oltraggi '<
Solo al vinfco non toccano i guai ;
Torna in pianto dell' empio il gioir.
Ben talor nel superbo viaggio
Non I'abbatfce I'etema vendetta ;
Ma lo segna j ma veglia ed aspefcfca ;
Ma lo coglie all' esfcremo sospir.

HIS POETRY, 129
XII.
I hear around me festive cries ;
With hymns the laurell'd temples ring.
Prom homicidal hearts that rise,
While heaven detests the offering.
The stranger with a savage eye
Stands gazing from his Alpine height ;
Beholds our warriors where they die.
And numbers them with fierce delight.
xm.
Hasfce ! fill ye up your ranks ! suspend
The triumphs 1 cease the games ! again
Back to your standards — see descend
The foreign foeman to the plain,
Victor ! but ye are faint and few.
This fatal weakness — this false pride.
Lures from their clouds fche vulfcure crew.
To revel where your brothers died,
XIV.
Too narrow for thy children, and
Scarce feeding them in peace, didst thou
Receive the stranger, hapless land i
And righteous judgment waits thee now.
Poes whom thou never didst ofiend.
Sit insolently at thy board ;
The trophies of the foolish rend.
And from thy princes wrest the sword.
XV.
Pools, too, the conquerors ! will not Blood
And Outrage summon guilty fears.
That on the triumph hour intrude.
And dash the cup of joy wifch tears ?
What though the haughty front of crime
Heaven's vengeance strike not — fi:om on high
It marks him — watches, waits the time,
And sleepless lurks for life's last sigh.
g3

130 WRITINGS OF MANZONI.
XVL
Tutti fatti a sembianza d'un Solo ;
Figli tufcfci d'un solo riscafcto.
In qual ora, in qual parte del suolo
Trascorriamo quest' aura vital,
Siam fratelli ; siam stretti ad un patto :
Maladetfco colui che lo infrange,
Che s'innalza sul fiacco che piange,
Che confcrista un spirito immortal !
This patriotic chorus is said to have given great
offence to the Austrian government, against whom it
was manifestly aimed. But the most admired of all
Manzoni's poetical productions is the Ode on the
death of Napoleon, entitled " II cinque Maggio,"
ODE.
El fu ; siccome immobile,
Dafco il mortal sospiro,
Stette la spoglia, immemore,
Orba di tanto spiro ;
Cosi peroossa, attonita.
La terra al nunzio sta ; 6
Mufca, pensanda all' ultima
Ora deir uom fatale,
Ne sa quando una simile
Orma di piS mortale
La sua cruenta polvere
A calpest.T,r verr^,. 12
Lui sfolgorante in soglio
Vide il mio genio e tacque,
Quando con vece assidua
Cadde, risorse, e giacque,
Di mille vooi al sonito
Misfca la sua non ha : 18
Vergin di servo encomio,
E di codardo olfcraggio
Sorge or commosso al subito
Sparir di fcanto raggio,
E scioglie all' urna un Cantico,
Che forse non morrS,. 24

His POETRY, 131
XVI.
All in the likeness made of One,
All bought by one atoning death ;
What matters where each first hath drawn
With infant lips this fleeting breath ?
Sons of one common Father all.
Oh who would break this bond's control ;
With pride insult a brofcher's fall.
And sadden an immorfcal soul 1
(The Sth of May). Mariotti has cleverly translated this
ode in verse ; yet I cannot help thinking the vigour,
dignity and spirit of the original are more exactly
preserved in the version of my friend and feUow-tra-
veUer, the Rev, Charles Girdlestone, which he has
kindly permitted me to make use of.
ODE.
Napoleon is no more. E'en as his corse.
The last breath drawn, lay senseless, motionless.
Of such a soul bereft, — so stunn'd the earth
Stricken with mute amazement hears the news, 6
Thinks of that ChUd of Fate, his dying hour,
Nor can surmise when next like steps to his
Shall come to trample on her blood-stain'd dust. 1 2
Him gUtt'ring on his throne my spirit saw.
Silent ; and when, in swift vicissifcude.
He fell, then rose again, then low lay down, 18
Mid sound of thousand tongues, mine was not heard
To join in servile praise, or outrage base ;
Moved though it now be, by the vanishing
Of such a beam of light, to proffer lines
Meet for his urn, which haply ne'er shall die. 24

132 WRITINGS OF MANZONI:
Dair Alpi alie Piramidi,
Dal Mansanare al Eeno,
Di quel securo il fulmine
Tenea dietro al baleno ;
Scoppib da Scilla al Tanai,
Dair uno all' alfcro mar. 30
Fu vera gloria 1 ai posteri
L'ardua sentenza ; nui
Chiniam la fronfce al Massimo
Fafctor, che voile in lui
Del creator suo spirito
Piii vasta orma stampar. 36
La procellosa e trepida
Gioja d'un gran disegno,
L 'ansia d'un cor, che indocile
Ferve pensando al regno,
B' 1 giunge, e tiene un premio
Ch' era foUia sperar, 42
Tutto ei provb ; la gloria
Maggior dopo il periglio.
La fuga, e la vittoria, .
La reggia, e il triste esiglio,
Due volte nella polvere.
Due volte sugli altar. 48
Ei si nomd : due secoli
L' un contro 1' altro armato,
Sommessi a lui si volsero.
Come aspefcfcando il fafco :
Ei fe' silenzio, ad arbifcro
S' assise in mezzo a lor : 54
Ei sparve, e i di nell' ozio
Chiuse in si breve sponda.
Segno d'immensa invidia,
E di piet^ profonda,
D' inesfcinguibil odie,
E d' indomiafco amor. gQ

HIS POETRY. 133
From Alpine heights to Egypt's Pyramids,
From Guadalquivir to the Ehine afar.
Close following the lightning of his wrath.
Speed without fail his thunderbolts of war ;
From Borodino to Messina's Straits
They glance, and 'thwart the continent,from shore fco shore, 30
Greafc was his glory j let posterifcy
Give senfcence whether it were true as great : —
We bow submissive to the mighty Lord,
Whose work the world is, and whose will is fate.
Who, in this man, we deem, of his own might
An impress rarely match'd on earfch will'd to create. 36
AU he essay'd, all dared, all underwent ;
The trembling and tumultuous joy of deeming
All might he grasp' d, th' ambition of a heart
Without confcrol of crowns and sceptres dreaming ;
And all ere long he gain'd ; a prize so great.
To have so much as even hoped it madness seeming. 42
All this he proved, and more ; world-wide renown,
More highly after mortal peril prized.
The conqueror's career, the hurried flight.
Exile, and coronafcion solemnized ;
Twice by disaster humbled in the dust.
And twice by many a prostrate people idolized. 48
He won himself a name. A war of thought
Sever'd two kindred ages of mankind ;
To him submissive they appeal'd, to him
The arbitration of their fate assign'd.
He smote the world to silence, and pronounced.
Enthroned, the solemn sentence of his mighty mind. 54
Then far away, he wore out life, unseen.
Sea-girt, and all in so confined a space ;
The object erst of envy most intense.
Now of no less deep pity in its place,
At once of hatred not to be suppress'd.
And of devoted love which nothing might efiace. 60

134 WRITINGS OF MANZONI:
Come sul capo al naufrago
L' onda s' avvolve e pesa,
L' onda su cui del misero
Alfca pur dianzi e tesa
Scorrea la vista a scernere
Prode remote in van ; 66
Tal su quell' alma il cumulo
Delle memorie scese j
Oh ! quante volfce ai posfceri
Narrar se stesso impress,
E suUe eterne pagine
Cadde la stanca man ! 72
Oh ! quanfce volfce al tacifco
Morir d'un giorno inerfce,
Chinafci i rai fulminei,
Le bracoia al sen conserfce,
Sfcefcfce, e dei di che furono
L'assalse il sowenir ! 78
Ei ripensb le mobili
Tende, e i percossi valli,
E il lampo dei manipoli,
E I'onda dei cavalli,
E il concifcato imperio,
E il celere obbedir. 84
Ahi ! forse a tanto strazio
Cadde lo spirfco anelo ;
E disperb ; ma valida
Venne una man dal cielo,
E in piu spirabil aere
Pietosa il trasporfcb ; 90
E r avvib su i floridi
Sentier della speranza,
Ai campi efcerni, al premio
Che i desiderii avanza,
Ov' e silenzio e tenebre
La gloria che passo. 96

HIS POETRY. 135
As on the head of shipwreck'd mariner
Th' upheaving waters burst with deadly weighfc ;
Waters, o'er which, gazing aloft and clear.
His hapless vision freely roam'd of late,
Scanning the far horizon, to descry
In vain, the shores remote, to him denied by fate : — 66
So o'er that soul imperial, tempest-tost.
The bitter floods of recollection roll'd.
How oft th' eventful story of his life
Fain would he to posterifcy have told ;
But all too weary soon his hand fell down
On pages, which had else endured till time grows old ! 72
How often, when the dark'ning shades of night
Bade the dull hours of listless day depart.
His eyes of lightning in deep thought cast down,
His arms fast folded to his aching heart.
Stood he, and ponder'd on the days that were ;
Oificious memory plying fast her mimic art ! 78
Then pass'd before him, vivid in review,
Tenfcs shifting, troops the strong entrenchment storm-
BattaUons glancing, squadrons dashing through, [ing,
The bafcfcer'd breach with fierce assailants swarming ;
Instant emergency, the prompt command
Sped urgently, nor in less haste the prompt performing. 84
Alas ! what sick'ning pangs of keen regret
At such an hour did his great spirit prove !
How must Despair have fasten'd on its prey ;
But that an arm, outstretched from above.
Mighty to save, in mercy turn'd his thoughts
Into fche purer afcmosphere of peace and love ; 90
And led them towards happy realms, whereto
Hope strews the pathway with undying flowers ;
There brows immortal wear eternal crowns.
Enjoyment expectation overpowers ;
And to dim darkness and deep silence there.
Are turn'd the passing glories of this world of ours. 96

136 POLITICAL WRITERS.
Bella, immorfcal, benefica
Fede ai trionfi avvezza,
Scrivi ancor questo ; allegrati :
Che piu superba altezza
Al disonor del Golgofca
Giammai non si chinb. 102
Tu dalle sfcanche ceneri
Sperdi ogni ria parola ;
II Dio, che afcterra e suscifca,
Che afianna e che consola,
Sulla deserta coltrice
Accanto a lui posb. 108
An ode by Signor Rosetti, professor of King's Col
lege, in London, also produced a remarkable effect in
Italy, and helped to stimulate the national desire for
liberty. It was composed, I believe, within the last
few years, and was proscribed in the despotic king
doms of the Peninsula. In Naples I can testify that
the possession of this ode would have been regarded
as a political crime. A NeapoUtan gentleman on one
occasion drew the ode from his pocket, and read it to
an English friend of mine exultingly, declaring, how
ever, that he dare not part with a copy of it, nor
permit its publication. In this poem, the favourite
idea of a general union amongst all Italians is insisted
on, and the destruction ofthe Papacy ardently desired.
This latter notion was embraced by many patriotic
Italians, It is very curious to examine the opinions of the
liberals of Italy with respect to the means by which
her regeneration is to be accomplished. Some seemed
to think, through the Papacy. They undoubtedly
did not wish to deprive the Pope of his spiritual pre
eminence. As to Massimo Azeglio, we may collect

POLITICAL WRITERS, 1 37
Oh Faith ! undying, bounteous, bountiful.
Thou that the most obdurafce canst confcrol.
Thou hadsfc indeed meet reason to rejoice.
Amongst thy triumphs this one to enrol.
Por never to the shame of Jesu's cross
Bow'd down a more relentless, a more haughty soul. 102
Be it fchen thine to shield from foul reproach
His ashes resting in their Christian urn.
Since he at length did homage to that Lord,
Whose emblem to his dying couch was borne ;
The God, whose hand lays low, and lifts on high, [108
Who whom he loves afflicts, and comforfcs them that mourn.
from his writings, that he would be content to
have the Pope a superior bishop and nothing more.
All these authors are in favour of Catholicity, although
they may attach different ideas to the term. None
think it necessary to argue in favour of an enlarged
or enlightened religious toleration. Their national
vanity is flattered by having an Italian bishop re
garded as supreme Head of the whole Church.
Professor Mittermaer, of Heidelberg, has analysed
the opinions of the other influential political writers.
Cassare Balbo, like Macchiavelli, laments the loss of
national independence, partially agreeing with Gio
berti — he is more practical. A chief obstacle, Balbo
thinks, in the way ofa complete regeneration, consists
in the division of Italy into so many separate states.
He argues four questions: 1. The possibility of estab
lishing one independent Italian state ; 2. Of an Aus
trian empire in Italy ; 3. A set of small republics ;
4, A confederation of the existing Italian kingdoms.
He favours the idea of a confederation as most practi
cable, and speculates on getting rid of Austria, by
compensating her for the loss of her Italian provinces

138 POLITICAL FEELINGS.
out of the ruins of the Turkish empire. Ultimately,
Balbo depends on the great political events which
may be expected soon to happen, and exhorts that
preparation be made by educating the whole people,
and by union throughout the Peninsula in everything.
Balbo's idea of compensating Austria out of the
Turkish provinces was repudiated generally, as was
the project of Count Rozzo, to establish a great
Austrian empire in the Peninsula. The opinions of
the moderate Uberal party were represented better
by Count Mamiani, (who published in Germany,)
and Count Serristori, the enlightened Governor of
Siena : their idea was, that Italian regeneration could
not be accomplished without the effective co-operation
of the masses of the population ; and therefore that
the energies of all good men should be directed more
towards improving the moral and intellectual educa
tion of the people than to the setting up any particular
theory of political government.
It is a delightful fact, that throughout the writings
of these able and excellent men, there is nothing
which savours of scepticism or irreligion. All, in
urging forward the sacred cause of liberty, enforce
the good doctrine, that to its right enjoyment, virtue,
sound education, and reUgion, are essential. This is
true patriotism. To her literary and political writers
Italy owes a deep debt of gratitude. The idea of
establishing a great sovereignty in the Peninsula,
under the King of Sardinia, and of expelling the
Austrians, is entertained, I have no doubt, by that
artful monarch, and by many who think that by an
union between Charles Albert and Pius IX. the
German might be ousted ; and this may be the key
to the late poUcy of affected liberality of the soi-disant

HATRED OF THE JESUITS. 139
radical Charles Albert. The character of this sove
reign has been marked by duplicity ; and I have been
informed that in Genoa he was so hated by certain
noble famiUes, that when he entered that city they
instantly left it, nor would return until the king had
departed. No doubt the restless spirit of the Penin
sula will make use of him, and he of them ; but- the
Genoese wiU not trust Charles Albert, and will wring
concessions from him when they can.
The same bitter feeling prevails against the Jesuits
here, as in France, Bavaria, and Germany, I re
member observing to a Genoese, that I vrished to see
Silvio Pellico, who still lives at a very advanced age ;
he told me, " the old fool was not worth looking at
now ; he had lost his wits, and written on behalf of
the Jesuits, whose creature he was." Whenever the
educated classes regain poUtical influence in Genoa,
the monastic orders will suffer, but the Roman Ca
tholic reUgion, with some modifications, I conceive,
will continue to be the religion of the people.

140 CRIMINAL CODE OF GENOA.

CHAPTER X.
Criminal Code of Genoa. — Turin, &c. — Punishments. — Their Classi
fication and Character. — Prescription iu certaiu Cases. — Its Law
of Toleration. — Knavish Lawyers, how restrained. — ¦ Political
Offences, how repressed. — False Testimony, how punished. —
Duelling, how dealt with. — Forms of Procedure. — Working of
this Code. — Morality ofthe People.
The criminal code of law in the states of the King of
Sardinia is creditable to the government, methodical,
compendious, equal towards aU, and based upon cer
tain fixed principles ; moreover, having a due regard
to the admeasurement of punishment in proportion
to the crime, and careful of human life, This code
bears date November 1839, with some additions in
1840, and it is published by authority in a convenient
form. It consists of three books, containing 739 sec
tions. The first book treats of punishments, and of
the general rules for their application. The division
is, 1st, Death ; 2d, Hard labour for life ; 3d, Hard
labour for a time ; 4th, Confinement and labour ;
Sth, Imprisonment in a fort, or strong place pre
scribed; 6 th, Interdiction from public employment.
This consists in perpetual exclusion from every official
function or public employment. Every person con
demned to compulsory labour for a time, is in a state
of legal interdict, and a guardian is appointed to act
in his name, and administer his property as prescribed
by the civil code.

CRIMINAL CODE. 141
The second class of punishments are correctional,
consisting of imprisonment in houses of correction,
wherein offenders are classified according to their
ages, and put to useful labour, sharing in its produce.
Next, is a compulsory residence in an assigned locaUty,
at a given distance from the domicile of the offender
and person offended. 3d. Suspension from public
employment, or from the exercise of a profession for
a season. Lastly, a fine not exceeding fifty lire.
That third class are named police punishments.
Arrests, limited confinement in the place or dwelling
specified in the warrant. Payment of fines not ex
ceeding fifty lire. Lastly, there are accessorial punish
ments. The pillory ; pubUc acknowledgment of guilt ;
suspension from the exercise of any employment or
business whatever ; special police surveillance ; sub
mission to the authorities, which means a formal
undertaking given in presence of the judge never
again to commit the Uke offence. Finally, a public
admonition and warning from the judge in open court,
that if the offence be repeated, the criminal will incur
the severest punishment fixed by law.
In a subsequent chapter, the duration of all punish
ment is prescribed, the discretion of the judge being
wisely limited. Besides restitution, the aggrieved
party may recover reparation for any injuries he may
have received. The commutation of punishments is
regula.ted ; that is, where the judge may apply a lesser
degree of punishment, he must obey certain rules
graduating the same. Persons of twenty-one years
of age are subject to the full severity of the law ;
those under fourteen years of age, acting without
discernment, are not subject to criminal punishment;
but youthful offenders may be placed in the houses

142 CRIMINAL CODE.
of correction, if the magistrates think fit, for a shorter
or longer time, till they arrive at eighteen years of
age, when they must be discharged. The law as to
principals and accessaries is very sensibly laid down.
He who instigates another to commit murder, is dealt
with as a murderer.
The death of the guUty does not prejudice the civil
action against his property, or his heirs, for reparation
of the injury, at suit of the injured man. This is
consistent with natural justice. There is no limita
tion as to the time for prosecuting of crimes against
religion ; such as violently interrupting the ceremo
nies of the church, or trampUng on the host ; or for
high treason, or parricide, or premeditated murder,
&c. Nevertheless, as to the last-mentioned offences,
should the accused not be arrested until the expira
tion of twenty years from the commission of the
crime, the capital punishment cannot be inflicted.
This commutation applies to all cases where the
punishment is death, or condemnation to hard labour
for Ufe. For lesser offences a prescription applies
against the sentence after an interval of twenty years ;
against the prosecution after ten years, or five years,
according to circumstances. Verbal injuries, punish
able in a correctional way, are incapable of prose
cution after six months. But in serious cases where
this prescription appUes, the offender who escapes
the penalty must quit the scene of his crime ; nor
can he dwell where the injured man, or in case of his
death by violence, where his relations dwell.
We have given a summary of book the first.
The second book treats of crimes and their punish
ment. Considering Sardinia as a Roman CathoUc
country, we must not be surprised at the severe

PUNISHMENTS, 143
punishment, that of death for scattering the host. An
insult to the Virgin is also severely punished. Then
follows section 164, " Whosoever, by public teaching
or harangues, by writings, books or newspapers,
attacks, directly or indirectly, the religion of the
State, by asserting principles contrary to the same,
shall be punished by severe imprisonment," that is,
for not less than three nor more than twenty years !
The succeeding section provides, that if the offence
has been committed inadvertently it may be expiated
by temporary imprisonment, I have before remarked,
that it is by the laws of a country we are to judge of
its toleration. Now here we have a kingdom which
boasts of being the most liberal in Italy, the most
disposed to freedom, which aspires to lead the national
sentiment, and to encourage learning and science,
forming in the year 1840 a law of intolerance which
would have disgraced the darkest age. And this law,
to stifle all religious freedom of thought, or speech,
or discussion, is enacted in obedience to the wishes of
the priesthood, who expect thereby to preserve their
monopoly and power. The same principle of in
tolerance is asserted in every code I have examined
throughout Italy. Nor in the wisest reform of late
attempted is there the least advance made towards a
legaUzed reUgious toleration. These censurable enact
ments have been made probably in submission to the
authority of the Church, and may fall with its power.
I may add, that the practice in the Sardinian kingdom
is in exact conformity with the theory of their law,
bigoted to a degree scarce credible. And it is to
be kept steadily in view, that this system of reUgious
intolerance is firmly upheld, while the sovereign affects
a regard for learning, and for the extension of political

144 punishments,
liberty in conjunction with Rorae throughout tho
Peninsula ; and at the same time Austria, intolerant
of civil freedom, is to some extent tolerant of religious
belief. The sections aimed against the repression of
political excitement are rigid. The Neapolitan law
is enacted here, namely, whosoever by speeches in public
meetings, or by newspapers, Sfo., incites to the commis
sion of political crimes against the State, S[c., shall suffer
the same punishment as that awarded against the crime
itself. Strict care is taken to prohibit all arbitrary
arrests, or entering the domicile of any subject without
authority. Nine sections are aimed against the advo^
cates and lawyers who cheat, deceive, or desert their
clients. The punishments are suspension from prac
tice and fines. Falsification of a passport is punished
with one year's imprisonment at the least. Locomotion
in the Italian people is repressed by all possible
means. False testimony is severely punished, even
with death, where it has been the cause of death
being inflicted on another. The laws against inde
cency and immorality are strict, but I regretted to
hear that the purity of married Ufe is often tainted.
Deliberate murder only is punished with death : un
doubtedly this Sardinian code is sparing of life.
An offender who kills another in a duel is punished
with fifteen years' imprisonment. Such a provision
might usefully be introduced in our criminal system,
and no doubt would ensure convictions. Setting fire
to a church, or a house when inhabited, is punishable
with death. There are excellent poUce regulations
throughout the code.
The forms of procedure are similar to those already
specified. A process is prepared, compounded of
written deposirions ; but the witnesses may be again

classification of crimes, 145
exarained, if required, in presence of the judges and
accused, but with closed doors. The debate on the
trial is public, and the accused must be introduced
unbound, and his advocate has full liberty of speech
secured to him. Upon the whole, this code is pre
pared with ability, and is highly creditable to its
framers. Mittermaer regrets that the criminal statistics of
Piedmont are defective ; it would be all the more
desirable to have them in a country like this where
the people are virtuous and industrious, and the
administration of justice sagacious and energetic.
We have, however, a tabular statement of the prin
cipal crimes in the provinces, published in Turin, by
the Count Alfieri. The crime of Savoy appears
smallest ; in Nice it is also moderate. For the whole
seven continental provinces, during a period of seven
years : — Homicides  712
Assassinations, accompanied with plunder 1566
Stabbings and wounds  49 9 i
Thefts ...  7943
The population of the seven provinces is about
three millions and a half. There are accurate retums
of the number of infants exposed throughout these
provinces. The kingdom reckons thirty-two foundling
hospitals, and twenty-nine wheels ; and the number
of infants deposited, amounted, in 1829, to 18,877,
The proportion of exposed children to the popula
tion, is one to 1194,* In Sardinia it has been dis
covered that wives frequently expose their legitimate
children in order to receive them back in the character
* In Prance there is one foundling to every 255 inhabitants.
VOL. ni. H

146 character of crimes.
of paid nurses — a proof of the wisdom of those in
stitutions. We cannot leave the codes and statistics of crime
in Italy, without a few observations. It appears to
be the deplorable fact, that a great proportion of the
criminals are unpunished, either for want of prose
cution, or because the guilty are acquitted. The
causes of this evil fare, the reprehensible leaning
amongst the people towards malefactors ; the quarrels
of farailies ; (for the witnesses do all they can to save
those whose cause they have espoused ;) also the fear
of vengeance from the accused or their relations.
Women form but a small portion of the criminals in.
Italy. Political commotions and revenue offences are
on the increase. The punishments also are injurious.
The mode of banishment resorted to in some states
creates idle wanderers, who turn to crime and seduce
others by their example. Above all, the punishment
of the gaUeys, i. e. hard labour on pubUc works, is
mischievous for want of classification of offenders.
Association with atrocious criminals extinguishes the
last spark of moral feeling in those not before cor
rupted ; and, having suffered their punishment, they
return to society more injurious to it than ever.

RETURN TO ROME. 147

CHAPTER XI,
Return to Eome. — Enthusiasm of the People, and why. — The Pope
and his Popularity. — All Saints' Day. — " Taking Possession" by
Pius IX. in the Lateran. — Description of the same Ceremony,
with Reflections. — An Evening's Conversation.- — Education of the
People. — Gizzi's Circular. — Education of the Clergy. — Prospects
of Reform. — Pio Nono ; his Genealogy, History, Election, and
present Position briefly touched on.

" Roma, Roma, non c' fe piii oome era ! "
In the Winter 0/1846-7.
In the last week of October I re-entered the Eternal
City ; but it was not the city I had left — joy beamed
on every countenance ; there was an unusual hilarity
evinced by the people, the Ught of freedom had
daVned amongst them, I met a priest of my acquaint
ance ; he grasped my hand, exclaiming, " We can
speak now." It was significant of the mighty change
which had sprung up, I was invited at once to sub
scribe to an English journal, an ItaUan newspaper, a
legal periodical, I asked myself, " Can all this be
true ? Is this the Rome of Gregory 1 " There was an
extravagance in the conversation of grave men ;
marvels were to be effected in a moment — railroads
were to be made, academies of science restored)
agriculture improved, commerce revived, the rest of
the world outdone. Before, the Romans appeared the
automatons of a priest; as if inspired by a divine
h2

148 ADULATION OF THE POPE.
hope, they now sprung forward as men girt to run a
race. Their action — language — nay, extravagance,
showed their consciousness of past degradation, and
betokened a resolution not to miss their glorious
opportunity of becoming free. Their adulation of
the Pope seems absurd, but it involves a profound
principle altogether independent ofthe man. Walking
up the Via Felice with a friend, we met an ItaUan
sculptor of eminence ; my friend mentioned, that
" Signor  was now going according to his daily
custom to the Quirinal, to see Pio Nono, who re
turned at this hour from his exercise." The fact
attracted my attention ; I was introduced to this
gentleman, and called on him, when we conversed
freely about the Pope. I was affected by his obser
vation, " Signor, you must excuse our behaviour
towards the Pope : to you it must appear extravagant,
but the English have long been used to freedom ; we
have been so wholly unaccustomed to Uberty, that
the unusual blessing excites our feeUngs of gratitude
to a high pitch, I go every day to look at this Pope
with astonishment, never having expected to see one
who would profess to govern with justice,"
Looking round the studio, I perceived the procla
mation of the amnesty fastened on the wall, and an
unfinished bust of Pius the Ninth under the artist's
chisel, "The Pope sat for you to take his bust?"
" Yes, and conversed with me as a friend — knew my
family, inquired about them ; he has a heart in his
bosom." " But," asked I, "was there really affecting
yourself any practical oppression under the goverh-
ment of Gregory XVI. ? " He started, and then
replied : " No man could count on one hour's security
or happiness ; I knew not but there might be a spy

ALL saints' day. 149
behind that block of marble ; the pleasure of life was
spoiled. I had three friends who, supping in a garden
near this spot, were suddenly arrested, flung into prison,
and lay there, though innocent, till released by Pio
Nono. Believe me, Signor, no people ever suffered
what we for sixteen years have endured." I shud
dered at this fearful account of the government of
him who claimed to be Christ's vicar on earth.
Walking through Rome, I caught the general
enthusiasm. I ran about from one ceremony to
another, and cheered the Pope as did the people.
Will he strike off the iron fetters which have so long
bound a generous nation ?
The season was delightful. The inhabitants of
the cold north are not aware that October is to the
people in this climate as a second spring ; the ground
parched by heat is now refreshed with rain — nature
resumes her fresh colour. The vintage is secured —
families, long shut up in their houses by the heat,
dressed gaily as for a festal day, hasten forth to enjoy
their deliverance and breathe the air, which is at once
invigorating and deUcious. And many such days
there are, partly solemn, partly joyful, at this season.
On "All Saints' day, the Capuchin Convent in the
Piazza Barberini was laid out in an appalling fashion :
the skeletons of pious monks long dead, dressed in
their dull robes and stretched along the subterranean
chapel where they had worshipped in life, warned the
spectator of his mortality ; the floor was covered
vrith leaves, branches decked the gloomy walls, and
masses were celebrated under ground amidst the dry
bones of the dead.
Different was the scene exhibited in honour of a
true saint, Cardinal Borromeo, in the fine church of

150 THE POPE ENTERS THE LATERAN.
San Carlo Borromeo, in the Corso, — here all was
sunshine and splendour. The new Pope alighted
amidst the acclamations of the people. I was near
the portable throne chair as he sat down. I saw him
borne aloft on men's shoulders in unapostolic fashion
along the aisles, his countenance flushed, his eye
beaming with animation. The people seem to think
it useful to stimulate his holiness to action, and so
they crowd after his chariot and applaud him to the
skies. Was ever Pope before in such a position ? One
can join with Pio Nono in a tribute of respect to the
memory of so good a Catholic as Cardinal Borromeo.
The Sth of November came. I shall not easily
forget that day. I recorded my feelings after I had
vritnessed this singular spectacle. The Pope has
taken possession, in the Basilica of St. John Lateran,
with splendid ceremonial. Rome during this day
was more excited in feeling than she has been for
ages. The pageant has passed by, but the reality
of which it was the type will, it is hoped, remain.
The sovereign pontiff has not merely completed
his formal possession of a throne, but has possessed
himself of the hearty affections of his people. The
magnificent spectacle of the morning, succeeded by
the voluntary illuminations of the evening, expresses
but feebly the enthusiasm of the people, who already
experience some liberty, and hope for justice from
the magnanimity and wisdom of Pius IX. More
from anxiety to witness the Pope's reception by the
multitude, than from love of show and pomp, I salUed
forth this morning and took up my position in the
Piazza of Trajan, where stands the tall column of an
emperor who near 2000 years ago governed Rome
with virtue and valour. Naturally, as I waited for

DESCRIPTION OF THE CEREMONY. 151
the cavalcade of holy men to approach, my mind
reverted to the past and its stirring associations, to
" the commonwealth of kings, the meu of Rome,"
the men who ruled through the intellect, and loved
freedom better than life ; and I asked myself. Would
any portion of their stern spirit revisit the scene of
their glories, and raise the fallen Romans of this our
day from their degraded state ?
The cannon thundered from the Castle of St.
Angelo, and the procession moved on. Round the
Piazza it came, and a brilUant pageant it was — cham
berlains, and guards, and nobles, and prelates, and
cardinals, in splendid array and curious costume of
ancient fashion — dresses of many colours, and richest
ornaments, and showy carriages and horses, loaded
with costly trappings — and mules caparisoned in
shining harness, all in proper rank and order, to
describe which would require the pen of old Chaucer.
But these shining figures were regarded as puppets —
the great attraction was the popular Pope. When
the state chariot appeared, the acclamations rang
loud and universal. His hoUness seemed deeply
affected by sounds rarely heard by his predecessors.
In his progress he continually blessed the applauding
crowds by making the sign of the cross. He is a man
of fifty-four years of age, healthy in appearance, some
what flushed in countenance, of a firm aspect, with
decision and intelligence expressed by his brow.
By another and shorter route than the Pope's, I got
to an eminence exactly opposite the Colosseum
before the procession reached that memorable spot.
Under the arch of Titus passed the pompous array,
and before the arch of Constantine, and round the
Colosseum. Here stood the proud memorials of old

152 REFLECTIONS.
Rome, and here, where famous conquerors had
triumphed, and emperors held their gorgeous spec
tacles, a- priest in peaceful triumph passed, whose
kingdom ought not to be of this world, and whose
rule while here below should be in accordance with
the principles of the reUgion of Christ. We cannot
regret the downfal of heathen Rome — we must
rejoice to think, as we behold the mighty ruin in
which the early martyrs met a horrid death, that the
false religion and its cruelties perished, while the
persecuted faith since the day of Constantine has
continued to overspread the earth. The scene at
this glorious locality was especially grand; respect
able people in thousands, with a midtitude of the
lower classes, were here assembled to greet the
pontiff in his progress. Shouts of " Long Uve Pius
the Ninth 1 " rent the air, while men waved their
hats in expression of the universal sentiment. No
city on earth could afford so singular a spectacle, or
call up in the mind such associations of a mighty
antiquity. It is when we dwell upon the past, that
the consciousness of the brief space of our existence
is forced upon us. Life itself is but a procession, and
we the actors of the passing scene ; let us endeavour
to play our parts virtuously and well.
By a circuitous route I reached the lonely church
of Santa Croce, which stands close to the venerable
walls of ancient Rome, in a space utterly deserted and
forsaken. There is more than a quarter of a mile of
ground between this old church and the Lateran; very
wide — no houses — some trees — badly cultivated gar
dens, broken remains of aqueducts, and sad memorials
of past greatness. As you approach the Lateran,'
this tract of melancholy waste ground widens, afford-

ST. JOHN LATERAN. 153
ing ample space between the Scala Santa and the
Porta San Giovanni, for the population of modern
Rome. We are now before the celebrated Basilica of
St. John Lateran. In this place were assembled fifty
thousand people at least, countless carriages, the
whole garrison of Rome, and all the persons who
were engaged in the ceremonial already described.
The scene was magnificent, while you gazed on the
decorated church and the anxious enthusiastic crowd ;
but it was very melancholy to look back or around on
the old walls, and ruins, and deserted places, which
told so fearfully that this was a faded city. I entered,
the church, and was surprised to find it not so
crowded as I had expected, — the attraction was out
side. The ItaUans seemed to despise the splendid
ceremonials within, — their thoughts were bent on
higher and better things — the coming prosperity of
their beautiful and heretofore oppressed country.
The interior of the Basilica was decorated in a stj'le
of superb magnificence, of which the worshippers of
our faith in our cold countries can have no conception.
Draperies of gorgeous colours and costly materials
were tastefuUy hung around, the huge columns were
all dressed out, while the light was softened by cur
tains of crimson silk; and incense diffused around
a fragrant perfume. The Pope in white vestments,
rich with gold and jewels, was here borne round
the aisles in his car of triumph, with his fan-bearers
and all his officers of state, and the long train of
cardinals in their white vestments stiff with gold,
and white mitres, in grand procession. The priests
chanted. All the ceremonies were at last concluded,
and his holiness had taken possession, when I passed
h3

154 ENTHRONIZATION OF THE POPE.
to the Piazza in front of the BasiUca to witness the
giving of the blessing. This is the conclusion of the
ceremonial, and by far the most striking part of it.
The Pope is borne in his portative throne to the front
window above the great portal of the church, the
huge windows are removed, an awning raised, and
decorations of arras and gold-wrought draperies spread
around. The pontiff can plainly be seen by the mul
titude in the Piazza, as he is borne forward in his car.
At a signal the cannons fire, the music breaks forth,
the Pope raises his hand, the troops kneel, and some
of the people, in profound silence. The spectacle is
most imposing, but on this occasion the shouts of
thousands of grateful people gave a life to the cere
mony, vrithout which it had been cold; and of the vast
multitude assembled, every individual exhibited the
joy of his heart. The Pope raised himself and stood
upright for some minutes before the people, the triple
crown upon his head : this was the signal for fresh
acclamations. He gave the blessing, waving his hand
in the form of the cross. A burst of enthusiasm fol
lowed — the cannons thundered, the music sounded,
drums, trumpets, and pealing of bells, joined with the
people in one mighty chorus f and the pageant was
over. So far as this exhibition was meant to figure
forth the representative of Christ on earth, it was
absurd, if not profane ; as the investiture of a tem
poral sovereign with power, it was reasonable, and it
was magnificent. The Pope reigns in the heart of
his people, because they believe he will relieve them
from the miseries and oppression the Church had
heaped on them. He has begun well : may he perse
vere, and live to reap the reward of his labours' in the
prosperity of his people !

ITALIAN NEWSPAPERS. 155
The evening of the day on which I had witnessed
this grand ceremonial, I had a conversation with a
sensible Roman. In the fashion of the time I poured
forth praises on Pio Nono ; he responded rather coldly
to my encomiums, and at lengtli remarked, "It is true
this Pope has done some excellent things, and may
do more ; but it would have been more desirable that
another Gregory should have succeeded to the pa
pacy; then, in the condition to which things had
come, in a very little while the whole of this corrupt
system must have fallen to pieces — now, it may for a
time be patched up." This was spoken by a virtuous
man, a firm Catholic, not a bigot, certainly one de
voted to the pursuits of literature. I own it did
surprise me to hear such a man anticipate with satis
faction the disruption or downfal of the papacy. This
gentleman evidently considered that such an event
would be " a consummation devoutly to be wished."
My acquaintance, in common with other men of
education, may now pubUsh his opinion in the
press. I read the newspapers with great interest —
it gratified me to perceive how ably and suddenly
the Romans got up a respectable periodical litera
ture. Some of the articles in the Contemporaneo were
curious on the subject of education. A series of
essays appeared in the early numbers, in the course
of which the Italian and EngUsh system&of education
were contrasted, and the preference cordially given to
the English : although labouring under a censorship,
the expression of opinion on this single subject of
education is very decisive. Even the details of the
newspapers were surprisingly well done, although
the columns were deficient in the article of accidents

156 IGNORANCE OF THE PEOPLE.
and offences, of which particulars could not be had.
What pleased me was the candid admission by the
Italian writers, of the inferiority of the Roman people
in useful arts and inventions, agriculture, commerce,
habits of business, and education, to other nations.
None of that insufferable bombast about ItaUan genius
and its grandeur, but sober painful realities, were
uttered, and remedies discussed in a practical sensible
style. I think the capacity of the Italians underrated;
the infamous oppressions under which they groaned,
and which deprived them of all opportunity for
intellectual exertion, induced ill-judging foreigners
to pronounce them unfit for the management of
business. Let them have the conduct of their own
affairs, and they will soon improve.
One very important admission now made in Rome
is, that of the ignorance of the bulk of the people.
This frank confession is of great importance in
enabling us to, consider whether we ought to applaud
the system of Rome. All must admit that one great
duty of government, but especially of an ecclesi
astical government, is, to educate the people under
its sway. Now, did the Church of Rome fulfil this
sacred duty, and give a sound, or any real education,
to its flock ? Apart from initiating the multitude in
forms and ceremonies, and sending the children to
convents to leam little really useful, the papacy did
nothing. I have before me an official document,
decisive on this subject, proving not only the neglect
of education in the papal state, but its fearful conse
quences, idleness and crime.
The paper referred to is the memorable circular of
Cardinal Gizzi, Secretary of State, addressed to the
various officials of the pontifical states ; it declares.

NEGLECT OF EDUCATION. 157
that the crimes, and amongst them theft, which too
frequently for some time past have been committed
in some provinces of the pontifical state, have in
duced the government to adopt not only measures of
repression suitable to the urgency of the occasion,
but also wise measures of prevention, so as to remove
the causes of those crimes, or at least to diminish
their pernicious influence. "First amongst them," ob
serves the minister, " must be remarked, the idleness
to which a portion of our young artizans and peasants
are abandoned ; hence the necessity of procuring
useful occupation for these young men, and above all,
to watch over the right education of children, which,
if left to themselves, would make us dread even a
worse future. His hoUness, penetrated with the
great iraportance of this truth, has coramanded me
to call the attention of the chiefs of provinces, with
the local magistrates, that they may withdraw the
young from idleness, turning them to works of public
utility, and also lend their exertions to the extension,
in every place, of secular and religious education to
the lowest classes of the people." The minister then
points out how this good work is to be advanced, and
adds, it is by industry and education the prosperity
of the people is to be attained, and not by the adop
tion of theories inapplicable to the situation or nature
of the states of the Church. But here we have the
best evidence that crime was abundant in the papal
states, owing to idleness and ignorance ; and nobody
who resided a twelvemonth in this country can doubt
the truth of what Cardinal Gizzi has avowed.
Pius IX. succeeded to the pontifical throne at a
season of unparalleled difficulty. Massimo Azeglio
has portrayed in dark colours the then condition of

158 ELECTION OF PIUS IX.
the papacy. The Pope had either to persevere in the
wretched policy of his predecessor, or to reform :
sound political wisdom, or his own disposition, in
clined hira to the virtuous course, which he firmly
believed was best calculated to save the papacy.
Born of a noble family, he was originally intended
for the army. When in Rome, he was induced by
Pius VII. to change his determination, and enter the
priesthood ; and it is recorded, that after this pious
resolution his disease of epilepsy forsook him. A
pamphlet published in Rome, described the voyage
of Pio Nono to ChiU, and his prudent behaviour
while there. He had consequently seen something
of the world, knew the requisitions of the times, and
the temper of the people. In his bishopric, where
he conducted himself with exemplary propriety, he
had learned the popular feeling, A Roman advocate
informed me, that one reason which impelled the
Pope to the amnesty, was his knowledge of the fact,
that innocent raen had been not only imprisoned,
but put to death, under the government of his pre
decessor. Although Ferretti was prized for his good sense in
the college of cardinals, he was not generally known
amongst the Roman people, who had not enjoyed an
opportunity of understanding his character, or ap
preciating his talents. That his election was partly
accidental is proved by the fact, that Cardinal Lam
bruschini, the minister of Gregory, had at the flrst
baUot a greater number of votes: alarmed at the
perilous prospect of having such a pope, the votes
fell away on a subsequent ballot from Lambruschini,
and were added to Ferretti, and thus he was chosen ;
and I believe, on the day of his election, the greater

THE AMNESTY. 159
portion of the inhabitants of the Roman states were
disaffected towards the government. The amnesty,
his great measure, which won the hearts of the
people, affected nigh 3,000 persons, including men of
all ranks and professions : although they are pledged
in honour to attempt no machinations against the
state, yet they are not pledged to conceal their
sufferings or persecutions, or not to strive for an
amelioration of the abominable system of which they
were the innocent victims. AU these causes combined
will make it impracticable for the Pope to stand still,
although he may be disposed to abide by the com
mentary written upon Gizzi's Circular :
" That it is not possible for the Pope to divide witk the
people, by his mere will, the supreme majesty of his power,
or to alienate any of the essential attributes of sovereignty."

160 CHRISTMAS IN ROME.

CHAPTER XII.
Christmas in Rome. — The Pifferari Shepherds. — A Church Service
by Night in Santa Maria Maggiore. — The Pope and the Holy
Cradle. — St.Peter's on Christmas-day. — Eeflections. — Conversation
with a Priest. — Absolution explained. — Exhibition of the Pre
sepio. — A Procession. — Jesuits' Church. — High Mass in a Greek
Church. — History of a Nun. — -A Domestic Story. — Ceremony of
taking the Veil desoribed. — Observations on the Monastic System.
— Inundation of the City. — Exertions in Relief of the Irish
Famine. — Sympathy of Pius IX. — Padre Ventura again. — His
Sketch of the Irish People. — Priests from Ireland in Rome. — Fate
of Dr. Keenan. — The Carnival ; its Derivation traced. — The Cere
monies on Ash-Wednesday. — Interview with Pius IX. — His Ap
pearance, Manner, aud Conversation. — His Character and Conduct
considered in a two-fold Aspect : as a Political Reformer, aiid as
an Ecclesiastical Sovereign. — Review of his Acts as a Politician.
December 1846, to April 1847.
The day set apart for commemorating the birth of
Christ is ushered in by a siraple yet affecting custom,
which has been practised for centuries ; the Pifferari
descend in their native costume, short cloaks and
pointed hats, from the Abruzzi mountains, and are
suddenly heard in the streets of the Eternal City,
playing their peculiar music, consisting of bagpipe
and fife. In parties of two, these shepherds per
ambulate Rome, awaking the inhabitants in the still
ness of night by their welcome strains. They remain
in the city about a fortnight, generally commencing
their labours about four o'clock in the morning, and

PIFFERARI SHEPHERDS, 161
passing through each street twice in the day. When
ever they see an image of the Madonna, there they
stop and play a sonata before it. They ask no alms,
but each shopkeeper and householder gives some
thing to the Pifferari, who come from a distance to
commemorate the birth of Him who gave salvation
to the world. The Romans say, it once happened
that the Pifferari shepherds came not, and plague
and famine scourged their city ; they therefore wel
come their humble visitors,' remembering it was to
shepherds keeping watch over their flocks by night
that the blessed revelation first was made. This is
indeed an innocent custom. It was so congenial to
my feelings, that to preserve its remembrance, I
secured a sketch of the Pifferari, as they devoutly
serenaded, with heads uncovered, an image of the
Madonna at the corner of my street,
Christmas-eve has arrived ; a spirit of watchfulness
pervades the city — you feel it — you discover that
without noise the population is in motion at the
ordinary hour of repose. Should you inquire what
means this movement, you learn that the eve of the
birth of Christ has come, and it behoves Christians
not to sleep, but praise God through the night ; and
this UteraUy is done by many. Churches are open
and lit up, solemn services are performed, hearty
thanksgivings are offered up for the tidings of great
joy. The Pope issues from his palace, and, attended
by the college of cardinals, assists in the services in
the noble Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. This
service used to be commenced at midnight, but now
the hour is changed to nine o'clock, which is more
convenient. Thither I bent my steps : a vast multi
tude of people were there, as much to behold the

162 CHURCH SERVICE BY NIGHT.
popular pontiff as the Christmas ceremony. The
appearance of the interior of the Basilica surprised
me. It was a blaze of illumination ; the long nave
was lit up by rows of beautiful glass lustres filled
with wax-Ughts ; the tribune, where sat the princes
of the Church, being pecuUarly splendid. I got
within the enclosure formed by the Swiss guard, and
found myself amidst a crowd of resolute English
ladies; there was a grand ceremony; much chanting,
and scattering of incense. Then Pius IX. was
raised aloft, and borne in grand procession through
the spacious nave, and into the chapel of SS, Sacra
mento, where the holy cradle is carefuUy guarded. This
precious deposit was then brought forth, covered by
a case, I beUeve of crystal, and carried through the
church, to exalt the faith and delight the eyes of the
pious. It is asserted deliberately, that this is the
very cradle in which our Saviour lay, (not surely in
Bethlehem ?) after his birth. What can be more
painful than to witness such a man as Pius IX. lend
ing his countenance to this fable, and, by participating
in the ceremony, sharing in what may be conceived
by some to be an innocent imposture? This story of
the holy cradle is of a piece with that of the Scala
Santa, near the Lateran, which, to the amazement of
all rational beings, is asserted to be the identical
staircase down which our Saviour walked from the
house of Pontius Pilate in Jerusalem; and being
carefully covered, lest it should be worn by the
knees of the believers, is made use of for penance
by the Church, and crawled up by thousands. But
already I perceive an intimation of the belief in these
fictions drawing to a termination ; for I have lately
read in a Roman journal, that a Catholic was not

ST. Peter's on christmas-day. 163
bound to believe in the genuineness of relics, but
might and should examine for himself the evidence on
which their authenticity depended.
St. Peter's, on Christmas-day, vvas magnificent in
the pomp of its ceremonial ; thousands were drawn
thither to see the Pope, in pontifical grandeur, per
form high mass. Ordinarily the Roman families
prefer at this solemn season the quiet parish churches,
where they can pray — a thing in St. Peter's, on these
state occasions, utterly irapossible; in fact, nobody
attempts it. A Protestant, I really beUeve, is not
quaUfied to judge of ceremonies to which he is not
accustomed : those who are, see in them possibly a
profound raeaning ; but we are compeUed to inquire
in Rome into the original teaching of the Apostles,
and compare it with what we see. For example, .
when Paul reasoned in this city — a fact which gives to
it everlasting interest — was it thus f When the early
Christians worshipped here, was it thus ? Impossible
to beUeve either of these things. Dr. Newman's
theory of development must be called in aid, and
apostoUcal simplicity developed into this unapos-
tolical magnificence.
Vespers in the Tyrol I thought very touching ;
the people were in earnest, and prayerful. Vespers
sung by the nuns in the church of Trinita de Monti,
are sweet and impressive. St. Peter's, on state days,
is a grand spectacle, and nothing more. But I ought
to add, that Pius IX, in this and the several services
which Ihave seen him conduct, discharged his priestly
duties as one thoroughly in earnest. Quitting St,
Peter's, I met a worthy priest of my acquaintance ;
he vrished good-huraouredly to convert me : Might I
not join the rest of my countrymen converts in Rome?

164 ABSOLVING POWER OF THE POPE.
I asked him bluntly. Did he think the ceremony we
had just witnessed was in conformity with the prac
tice of the early Christians ? He answered frankly.
Certainly not ; but they had the mass, and as to the
ceremony, what suited one state of society did not suit
another, and the Church should decide what was suit
able now. This was plausible, although it would be
hard to prove that the early Christians had the modern
mass. If this argument were pushed to an extreme,
it would follow, that year after year ceremonies and
formularies and creeds might be added to those now
existing, until, under the process of development,
something might ultiraately be developed, having more
resemblance to Paganism than Christianity. And
manifestly this doctrine of development not only would
cloak all abuses, but strike at the root of all Christi
anity and endanger all Churches. Without any dis
respect to those who differ from rae, no ceremony I
ever beheld of a sacred character affected my heart
less, than that represented with unequalled magnifi
cence in St. Peter's on Christmas-day,
A fortnight after, there was another pontifical high
mass in the same BasiUca, and I again saw the Pope,
his feathers, and flappers. On inquiring what this
repetition was meant for, I was answered. This was the
festival of the Chair of St. Peter, instituted to con
fute the Lutherans, who denied without any founda
tion that St, Peter had ever been in Rome, Be
the Lutherans right or wrong in their opinion, this
is not a very logical way of answering their argu
ment. I remember being present on an occasion
when an Italian explained the popular idea about
the absolving 'power of the Pope thus : The Catho
lics believed the Pope to be the successor of St,

THE PRESEPIO, 1G5
Peter; and as to St, Peter it was said, "Whose soever
sins ye remit, they are remitted unto them," so they
beUeved, whatever sins, of a lesser kind, the Pope by
indulgence absolved here, were certainly forgiven in
heaven ; not including violations of the great com
mandments of God, which could not be absolved.
One would think the system of perpetually granting
indulgences on easy terms, even for lesser faults, must
have an unfortunate effect on the morals and character
of the people. Subsequently a discussion arose in
my presence, as to the effect of confession and abso
lution on crime in Rome, where the civil and eccle
siastical powers were united in the same hands. Some
maintained that the crime against the civil law was
pardoned by the forgiveness of the ecclesiastical. I
consulted a Roman advocate on this head. He said
the absolution and confession had not, and were not
permitted to have, the least effect in their punishment
of the criminal, although confessed and absolved. He
laughingly added, "Egli e ammazzato e mandate in
Paradiso." I must now conduct the reader across the Tiber,
and show him the curious exhibition of the Presipio.
In the district of Trastevere stands an old tower of
other days, which we must ascend by long narrow
flights of crooked stone steps : pausing to breathe in
a square chamber, we read inscribed on the wall, that
this tower was used as a means of defence against the
Goths, and afterwards as a prison ; now, happily, for
the sacred purpose of the Presipio. Although squeezed
by the pressure of the faithful descending, we at last
reached the top of the tower, which was above the
roofs of aU the surrounding houses. So soon as we
could get standing room in the narrow apartment, we

166 PROCESSION TO VISIT THE POPE.
looked about us and perceived several little avenues,
as if leading out to the country on different sides.
There were dirainutive shepherds, sheep, goats, asses,
traveUers, and water ; in one avenue was a stable and
cattle ; near a manger the virgin, a child, the magi
worshipping and bearing gifts, shepherds gazing on
the infant, and angels announcing the glad tidings.
The foreground was filled with all the details of a
mimic landscape. Some of the avenues were closed
byunreal mountains, so cleverly managed as to deceive
the eye, whilst in others the real mountains in the
distant plains of the Campagna terminated and gave
a character of reality to the scene. All this is exhi
bited to represent the scene of our Saviour's birth as
described in Scripture, the reading a few pages of
which in their beautiful simplicity, one might sup
pose, would better teach a Christian people what it
so deeply concerns them to know.
On the last day of the year there was a procession
to the Quirinal, to visit the Pope. It consisted of
crowds of young men marching with banners and
music ; they were full of enthusiasm, and ranged
themselves in the spacious piazza with great joy;
as usual, they called for Pio Nono. His holiness
appeared on the balcony, gave thera his benediction,
and remained while the young men sang a spirited
hyran in two verses. The behaviour of the Italian
crowds, on all the occasions on which I have seen
thera, is admirable — no discourtesy, nor the least ill
humour, much less is there any appearance of violence
in their conduct ; but I confess I grow tired of these
exhibitions, and wish they were over, yet they seem
only beginning. It is a strange sight to a foreigner
to behold masses of the people, whenever excited on

THE pope's visit TO THE JESUITS. 167
any subject, hurry off to the palace of the Pope, and
call him out to gratify their humour ; and it is undig
nified, to say the least, in his holiness, to make him
self so very common. The motive in the people is
excellent, but their adulation is excessive. They
wish their Pope to understand he is the man of the
people. On one occasion it was reported that his
holiness was indisposed; and the populace, taking the
alarm marched off to the Quirinal, and would have
him out, dead or alive. The Pope resisted being
dragged to the balcony ; his determined visitors, not
to be foUed, sent a deputation into the palace, with
strict orders not to come forth till they had seen
Pius IX, — a commission which was faithfuUy exe
cuted. Had this good Pope suddenly died, and I
been his cook, or a suspected cardinal, I should have
fled for my life ; the first functionary would have
been roasted on his spit ; the second, still less re
spected, might have been torn in atoms — his red
stockings and hat flung into the Tiber,
But again I must follow his hoUness. He visits
the Church of the Jesuits in state, to sing out the old
year : the vespers were short, music good, and the
people joined in the responses, which produced a fine
effect. The Pope departed amidst general acclama-
mations. It does not appear Pope Pius has any dis
Uke to the Jesuits in a religious point of view. This
visit in state to their church would seem to disprove
that ; he has also been known to commend their piety
and zeal. As censors of the press, their old and
favourite employment, or as politicians, he dare not
continue them in office.
1st January. — Another festa day ; I contented
myself with vespers in St. Peter's, which were more

168 GREEK HIGH MASS,
congenial to my taste than the Pope and the pro
cession. Amidst the religious ceremonies in all quarters of
Rome at this solemn season, I raust particularize
that of high mass according to the Greek rite, in the
Greek church of St. Athanasius. It was a curious
sight. The building in its arrangements resembled that
described already as existing in Leghorn. An inner
shrine, where the priests alone entered, contained the
altar, richly decorated. The priests, loaded with
gorgeous vestments, performed a singular ceremonial.
They moved in and out of the sacred shrine, and
backwards and forwards, sorae with huge wax candles,
others with tapers and gold censers, A numerous
choir, outside the shrine, but inside an enclosed space
like that of our communion tables, sat with their backs
to the people and chaunted at intervals. Then a
priest ascended a low pulpit, and read a prayer in
Greek ; next, a sort of dirge was chaunted by a
priest, after which there was a grand procession of
the host around the enclosed space I have described,
in which all the clergy and choir joined ; and thus
the mysterious ceremony ended. I thought it in
some degree impressive.
It is a mistake to assert that the Greek Churches
acknowledge the supremacy of the Pope, One branch
only does, the larger branch does not. The con
dition of this Church, and its history, furnish a
strong argument against the Pope's claim of supre
macy. It would be difficult to believe, when the
emperor and the seat of erapire were fixed at Con
stantinople, the bishop of the new capital was to be
subject to the authority of the bishop of the deserted
city. The recorded fact, that at an early period the

STORY OF A NUN. 169
heads of the Church in Constantinople consulted the
bishop of Rome as to the time of celebrating the
festival of Easter — differed from, and rejected his
opinion when given — and pursued an opposite prac
tice, without any attempt to punish their noncon
formity — is demonstration that the Bishops of Rome
had then no supremacy.
During this season, I chanced to be present when
an Italian lady of respectability, . who maintained
herself by reading Italian literature with English
families, alluded in accents of grief to the fading
health of her youthfulsister, a nun in a neighbouring
convent. This veracious lady was asked. Had her
sister become a nun wilUngly ? She answered, " Not
merely so, but enthusiastically, to the bitter regret
of her mother and sisters ;" and then, in reply to an
inquiry meant in kindness, she gave this brief but
touching family history. " My father was a physician,
and died leaving Uttle fortune, and a widow with
three daughters ; my sister in the ^convent was the
youngest and handsomest. We clung to our mother,
and all laboured to assist her as we could. The
family confessor visited us often, and gave us conso
lation and advice. We soon observed our young
sister becoming- more grave in her manner ; then
some hints were dropped of a convent, and the con
fessor spoke to my mother of the happiness of a
monastic life. My mother declaired she would never
permit Maria to enter a convent ; she could not afford
to lose so dear a child. Again and again the subject
was renewed, and dropped. At length my sister said,
she could only be happy in a convent, and vowed that
if she were not suffered to become a nun she would
apply to be received as a servant to the sisters. The
VOL. ni- I

170 STORY OF A TSrUN.
confessor strongly pressed the propriety of yielding to
the girl's wish — she was evidently caUed to a holy life.
My mother's scruples were overcome ; 600 scudi were
made up as the entrance money of my sister, the con
vent generously abating 400 of their usual portion.
She went in as probationer for the usual time, and
then took the veil ; and now once in six months we are
permitted to see her. My mother reckons the hours
before that happy morning ; then exclaims, ' This is
the day we again behold our beloved Maria ; let us haste
to the convent.''. We carry food with us, and remain
till evening ; my sister appears at an inner grating,
and near her sits a veiled nun during the whole period
of our visit ; a second grating separates us from the
first, and thus we converse ; but we cannot touch her
hand, nor kiss her cheek, till death has released her
from this life. At first Maria continued in good
health, but at the expiration of two years she grew iU,
and is now worse ; we scarcely know her writing,
which is confused and straggUng, but see her we can
not. The doctor who attends the convent will not
and dare not tell a word of what passes vrithin the
walls," Here the good lady wept bitterly.
I counselled her to address a petition to Pius IX.,
whose boast was to redress daily the wrongs of his
people, and who read every petition with his own
eyes. She answered, that would be perfectly useless ;
the laws of the convent were well known before the
nun entered, and could not, and would not, be altered
or relaxed. I inquired what the name of this con
vent might be, and was answered, it was that of the
Battisterie, attached to the church of St, Nicola di
Tolentino, where there would take place the profes-
tion of a nun on the ensuing Sabbath. On expressing

CHURCH OF ST. NICOLA DI TOLENTINO. 171
my surprise that the young and beautiful could so
eagerly renounce the enjoyments of life, and sacrifice
the affections of the heart, this discreet lady observed :
" There was much to recommend the convent to
young women in her class of Ufe. Rome was not a
wealthy or flourishing city ; there was a difficulty in
procuring a decent subsistence, a constant struggle
with the evils of life and daily toil. From all these
vexations the inmate of a convent is free, and lives in
tranquilUty and abundance. We have now to dis
charge towards our mother, not only our own duties,
but those which belonged to my young sister — she
has no care nor labour." This talUed exactly with
the statement made to me by the Florentine priest,
and explained also something of the condition of the
professional classes in Rome, But what a disclosure
of the nature of the monastic system ! What apology
can be offered for the unnatural interdiction of inter
course between parent and child? what, for teaching
systematically that it is pollution for a professed nun
even to touch her mother's hand or kiss her cheek ?
It is repugnant to the laws of nature, and cannot be
acceptable to that God who planted these laws in our
hearts. It is also opposed to the revealed law, which
commands us to honour our father and mother, that
our days may be long in the land which the Lord our
God hath given us, I never heard even a plausible
argument in favour of these monastic institutions.
I hail the prospect of their downfal with deUght,
believing that the principles of the great Leopold will
fianlly triumph throughout Italy.
On Sunday morning following, the 17th of January,
I hurried to the Church of St. Nicola di Tolentino,
to witness the promised ceremony. It was a cheerless
i2

172 . TAKING THE VEIL.
affair. Two Swiss sentries were on guard at the
door, a circumstance which indicated the expected
presence of a cardinal. First arrived a large morocco
chair, then a fat cardinal. His eminence knelt down
in the centre of the aisle on a velvet cushion, while two
soldiers, with fixed bayonets, stood guard over him.
His chaplain, in full clerical costurae, knelt down
exactly behind, , and took a pinch of snuff. The
cardinal-vicar quickly rose. The soldiers marched
him inside the railed place before the altar, where he
sat down, in the, morocco chair. He was then arrayed
in fine robes, a gold crucifix was suspended from his
neck, the brilliant shone upon his finger. The novice,
riot very attractive, was introduced, covered with a
white veil, and matronized by a marchioness fashion
ably dressed. An elderly priest seated himself oppo
site the novice and her friend ; the cardinal between,
facing the congregation, presided in stately composure.
The priest deUvered his common-place discourse to
the poor girl as . she sat before him ; told her of her
approaching happiness ; that she would thenceforward
belong to God; that by this act of devotion her
eternal felicity was secured ; heaven was opening its
gates to receive her. To this discourse she gently
nodded assent. She was then presented by the
fashionable marchioness to the cardinal, as he sat
arrayed in his magnificent robes in the red chair,
whereupon the novice devoutly kissed the golden
crucifix. His eminence now placed a crown of thorns
upon her head, and a Ught, although large, black
crucifix of wood on her shoulder; after which the
girl walked down the centre of the church, attended
by her friend, descended the steps, into the open air,
(here a number of the lower classes were assembled

INUNDATION OF THE CITY. 173
to see her as she passed,) turned to the convent gate,
which she entered, never in this mortal life again to
behold the fair world she quitted. In twenty minutes
she appeared at the iron grating near the altar in her
white coif — a dismal sight. Some questions were put
to her, some prayers were said, the nuns sang sweetly
from the recesses of their living tomb, and all was over.
The gilded chair was carried off, the cardinal laid
aside his heavy finery, had a quiet joke with the
priest, the Svriss sentries fixed bayonets, safely
guarded his eminence into his coach, and I hastened
from the melancholy scene. Napoleon's prefect, in
his book, mentions that when the French threw open
and dispersed the convents in Rome, and gave liberty
to the inmates, the nuns begged to be permitted
to remain ; and such of them as could, kept together
in one or two monasteries which were spared, and
none complained of ill-usage. All this may be true
— it only proves, however, that after a rational being
has been submitted to a monotonous existence for
years, the discharge of the active duties of life be
comes intolerably irksome ; but it proves nothing in
favour of the system- Thousands of young women
are thus shut up throughout Italy ; and I will never
beUeve that there are not araongst them many hearts
broken by their imprisonment.
During the month of December we had dismal
weather, and there was an unusual inundation of the
city from the unruly Tiber. A great part of Rome
resembled Venice ; boats pliedin the streets adjoining
the river, before the Pantheon, and in the Corso.
The sufferings of the lower order were severe ; but
the injuries caused by the event were exaggerated.
To those who did not suffer, Rome presented an

174 PADRE VENTURA.
aspect of extraordinary interest, and the artists were
busily employed in sketching the novel appearances.
The Pope was attentive to the poor; the English
made a liberal coUection, and the nobles, who have
not the wit to improve their land or afford employment,
gave bread.
I must revert to Padre Ventura: — On the 9th
of January, this celebrated preacher delivered a dis
course which surprised me. Having in due time
touched on heretics, he asseverated that they were,
in Protestant nations, ever heartless, persecuting, and
wicked, while Catholic kingdoms were, as in France,
the reverse to the Protestants. He then instanced
Ireland, and with vehemence declared, that while
the poor Irish laboured to supply the luxuries of the
rich Protestant, they, and the Protestant government
of England, left the Irish to perish by thousands — -
but thus ever was it with heretics. The furious bigotry
of such a discourse shocked me. This preacher too
boldly talked of toleration in a country where religious
intolerance was the inexorable law, to his own know
ledge. As I quitted the church, I met a frank-hearted
young Irishman of my acquaintance, who was studying
for the priesthood. I told him what I had just heard
from the renowned Padre Ventura. He bade me pay
no attention to his calumnies : " Ventura," he said,
" is well known for his absurd assertions ; last year,
he declared in the pulpit, that the Queen of England
offered to hand over the East Indies to the Pope,
prorided he would give up indulgences ; which his
hoUness sternly refused." This was so pleasant a
story, and ray young companion was so good-humoured
and tolerant, that I recovered my temper, and we
laughed at the folly of the preacher. I may here add.

EXERTIONS IN RELIEF OF IRISH FAMINE. 175
that I met some young Irish priests in Rome, who
were greatly dissatisfied with what they heard and
saw there, objected to the papal ecclesiastical autho
rity, and were, moreover, tolerant in their opinions,
while they evinced a strong love of country.
Amongst the Irish priests whom I saw in Rome,
there was one whom I cannot remember without
regret : I allude to the late Dr. Keenan, who came
to Rome to seek for justice against his bishop. His
complaint was, that his diocesan had deprived him of
his parish (in Dromore) without a cause. Having
lodged an appeal, founded, I beUeve, in justice, the
unhappy priest spent months in Rome expecting
a hearing and decision of his case. According to his
account to me, nothing could be more dilatory or
vexatious than the ecclesiastical court of appeal ; all
its evils were aggravated when the defendant was a
bishop, against whom a priest finds it nearly impos
sible to get justice. Dr. Keenan, who was a pleasing
and very tolerant man, having exhausted his last
guinea in his chimerical pursuit, died in Rome of a
broken heart. He was buried, I believe, by sub
scription. There was at this awful season of famine a meeting
of the EngUsh held in Rome, for the purpose of
adopting measures to reUeve the sufferers in Ireland.
The EngUsh gentry acted vrith their wonted benevo
lence ; abandoned their recreations, laboured zealously
in the work of love, and were heartily supported by
their Irish brethren. Pius IX. applauded and en
couraged their efforts, and commanded three charity
sermons to be preached in French, Italian, and Eng
lish, and annexed an indulgence to the attendance on
the tbree discourses. The discourse in Italian was

176 THE CARNIVAL.
preached by II Padre Ventura ; it was very spirited
and eloquent, but quite unlike our ideas of a sermon ;
he described the poetical, mUitary, and imaginative
character of the Irish people, in glowing terms ; their
mode of existence, their food ; gave a history ofthe
potato failure and its fatal consequences ; drew a
vivid picture of the priest consoling the peasant in his
hovel ; but he reserved the thunder of his eloquence
for his description of their faithfulness to the Catholic
Church. It was in the course of this sermon that
II Padre Ventura named the Methodists with a start
of horror, whether real or affected I know not, "a
sect of men ever the enemies of the Church." The
mass of his hearers had no idea of what Methodists
believed, and very likely regarded them as Caffres !
The sermon was highly characteristic of the preacher
and of the national feeUng. The renowned orator
spoke in better taste of England on this occasion,
although he did not retract handsomely- his former
assertions. Preaching is over, and now the carnival begins —
a scene of buffoonery, jollity, extravagance, and cari
cature, which has no parallel in the world. The
carnival in Naples is contemptible compared with
that in Rome, and yet the Neapolitans are naturally
more excitable than the Romans. I bear wiUing
testimony, however, to the invincible good humour
of the Italian people. The most entertaining of their
caricatures consisted in their grotesque delineations of
real life in all its varieties. There was an impudent
mountebank who imitated a lawyer, and ridiculed the,
learned profession ; he was dressedin black, with wig
and peruke, a false nose, spectacles and band ; carried
a law book under his arm, which he occasionally

EXERCISES IN LENT. 177
opened; wrangled with the passengers, threatened,
abused, would put the folk in his process, and bring
them to condign punishment. I almost considered
the impostor as personal in his behaviour towards me,
but I remained dumb in the presence of a master
spirit. All professions are ridiculed except the priest
hood ; no allusion is made to monks, nuns, friars, or
priests. Every other business in life is ludicrously
mimicked, down to the carrying of sick men to the
hospital. A patient is brought out in an open litter,
wrapped in a blanket, and carried along with apparent
tenderness and most diverting attention, to the house
of reception. The very physic is administered to the
pretended patient, who swallows the dose of wine
more willingly than if it were the doctor's drugs.
The serious affairs of Ufe are made to exhibit a ludi
crous aspect ; everything is travestied, and yet is there
nothing attempted which is offensive or indecent.
What astounds the stranger is the sudden transition
from the serious offices of reUgion to the wildest
excesses of human folly, and then back again as sud
denly to the pious exercises of Lent. The Roman
writers trace the carnival to paganisra, asserting that
Rome, the centre of pagan domination, has retained
in its popular usages stronger traces of practices
connected vrith the festivities of paganism, than any
other ' place in Europe. Pagan festivals were not
proscribed by Constantine the convert, but continued
through his reign. During the sixth century, a mode
of celebrating the feasts of the Natirity and of the
Holy Innocents came into use, in which the gambols
of the old SaturnaUa appeared under Christian
authority. Afterwards, a festival called that of the
Ass and the Fools was held, which continued from
i3

178 CEREMONIES ON ASH-WEDNESDAY.
Christmas-day to the Epiphany. In this it was usual
to elect a chief, as the Romans did in their Saturnalia,
and this raonarch of buffoons was caUed the Pope of
Fools; he was crowned vrith grapes, and paraded
through the streets on an ass, preceded by a fat ox,
whUe the people indulged in every extravagance.
The ceremony of the Boeuf gras in Paris, is de
rived from this festival, and from the ancient Satur
naUa ; and to the festival of the Ass and the Fools of
the middle ages, there has succeeded, in the capital of
the Christian world, the modem carnival, as absurd
as any, and proving how unalterably rooted in human
nature is the passion for buffoonery, or, as others
inight say, the- love for national amusement. That a
rigid ecclesiastical govemment should expressly sanc
tion this, seems surprising ; but the fact is, that the
whole system in Rorae is made up of inconsistencies ;
for, strange to say, at the same time that the madness
of the carnival rages, the eardinal-vicar issues spiritual
invitations to the faithful, beseeching them to shun
the dissipation of the season, to imitate the example
of St. Carlo Borromeo, or St. Filippo Neri, or some
other good saint, and visit the churches or stations,
where holy exercises appropriated to the time are
performed. Thus, if the temptation is offered, the
means of escape are offered also.
The cai-nival ended, Rome is emptied: the wise
visitors then dUigently employ their leisure. The
energies of the people are prostrated : they can scarce
crawl to prayers. Ash- Wednesday comes, on which
day, anciently, the pontiff walked in procession bare
foot, with aU the clergy, singing Utanies, to the church
of St. Sabina ; now, his holiness sits enthroned in
scarlet cope, purple stole, and mitre of cloth of silver ;

INTERVIEW WITH PIUS IX. 179
the cardinals in robes of purple with fur cape — that
colour or violet being the mourning of the Church.
The cardinals wUl assume the vestments of the altar ;
the auditor of the rota, in a violet-coloured pianeta,
will take from the altar a plate of silver gilt, filled
vrith the ashes of the palms consecrated on Palm
Sunday; his holiness will pronounce over them the
benediction ; then the Cardinal Penitenziere Maggiore,
who is to celebrate mass without gloves, and without
the episcopal mitre and ring, ascends the footstool of
the throne, and after profound obeisance, places a
portion of the ashes in the form of a cross on the head
of the pontiff. His holiness then assumes the mitre ;
and, the grembiale being put on his knees, gives the
ashes to the same cardinal, describing the cross on his
forehead, and saying, "Memento, homo quia pulvis es et
in pulverem reverteris." Thus does and says the Pope
to all the cardinals, bishops, abbots ; some standing,
others kneeling ; some kissing the knee, others the
foot of his hoUness, according to their rank. Next
the Pope washes his hands, using the crumb of bread
and a lemon vrith his oblation. The cardinals then
lay aside their sacred vestments and reassume the
purple cape ; a sermon is preached, and indulgence
for fifteen years proclaimed, and all is happily finished.
We have traversed a busy period, and reached the
month of February. Pius IX. has been followed from
church to basilica — several of his splendid ceremonies
described ; but it is time to inquire into the character
of the pontiff as a man and a king — into the acts
hitherto done of solid and lasting benefit to his people.
This extraordinary man must be considered in the
stages ofhis pontifical career, and in a twofold aspect ;
then much difficulty in the formation of an impartial
judgment on his character will vanish.

1 80 PIUS IX.
I had the honour of two interviews with Pius IX. :
the first as a member of the committee, appointed for
the humane purpose already mentioned ; the second
with a private party. I believe the committee was
the first body of Englishmen who waited on the Pope,
and certainly, as Mr. Harford spoke his sensible
address, his hoUness seemed highly pleased and
affected. His manner is frank, and even simple.
There is not the slightest tincture of pride or state
liness in his deportment; Pius IX., addressing his
fellow-men, utters, Uke a man of sense, what he
really at the moraent thinks and feels. There was
no written reply, couched in terms of cold formality,
to what was kindly said, but a cordial, spontaneous
expression of feeling poured forth at the moment.
The Pope said something courteous to several indi
vidual members presented to him ; hearing I was a
lawyer, he remarked, that an EngUsh advocate had
lately sent him a book on legislation, which he was
sure contained much which would be desirable for
him to know ; but, unfortunately, not being ac
quainted vrith the language, he could not read it : —
a sensible but unkingly observation. Dull pomposity
is not congenial to the disposition of Pius IX. He
is not what some would call dignified ; he appeared
as if his royalty sat awkwardly upon him ; in appear
ance very unlike the portraits of Pius VI. The
countenance, stout figure, and whole bearing of
Pius IX. denote plain rigorous sense, resolution and
manliness of character, and true benevolence, more
than refined or poUshed taste, lofty dignity, royal
pride, or grandeur of thought. Strip him of his
robes of state, he never would be mistaken for a
subtle Jesuit, but would pass all the world over for
a sagacious, clear-headed, English country gentle-

HIS APPEARANCE, MANNER, AND CONVERSATION, 181
man. Such was the opinion I formed on my first
interriew with Pius IX. The second time I had the
honour of being received, the Pope was quite at his
ease, and when the party of EngUsh ladies and gen
tlemen were grouped around him, he spoke with
unaffected kindness what he deemed most suitable.
He inquired anxiously about Ireland, and spoke in
terms of hearty admiration of the exertions made by
the parliament in England, in relief of the Irish
famine. The vote of ten millions seemed to astonish
his hoUness, On this occasion the manner of the
Pope was fatherly ; and, rooted as I am in the Pro
testant faith, I must say that the unaffected behaviour
of Pius IX. towards people of all nations, is such as
becomes an ecclesiastic aspiring to be considered the
head of the Christian Church.
Let us inquire what the Pope has done, or has
declared he will do, with a view to comprehending
his claims to. the character of a great reformer. The
amnesty was a generous act, and graciously done,
(yet even Austria has had her political amnesties, as
Pellico can vritness,) and in a financial point of view
highly prudent, for it was costly to feed 2,000 idlers.
in the pubUc prisons ; but the aranesty can be only
temporary in its effects : and let it be remembered,
that a general insurrection was apprehended from, the
infuriated and oppressed people when it was oppor
tunely proclaimed. What has been accomplished to
remove the causes which crowded the gaols with
political offenders? I cannot during this interval
discover any comprehensive permanent measure of
reform carried, or promised, by Pius IX. There was
some abatement made in duties on certain articles of
imports and exports ; some amalgamation of offices ;

182 PIUS rx,
certain popular appointments, as that of Cardinal
Gizzi ; the sanction of the construction of a few
railways at the expense of the people, which was
regarded as a prodigious advance towards enhghtened
policy. It was a safe measure, for I doubt if they
will ever be executed. Permission was granted to
have a political dinner ; a very modified law of the
press, under a strict censorship, was enacted. Best
of all, if anything results from it, was the appoint
ment of a committee to examine into and correct the
iniquities of the penal code.* A coramittee of car
dinals was also nominated to inquire into the con
dition of the papal revenues and finances ; nor ought
we to omit the forcible expulsion of beggars, who
infested in crowds the streets of the capital : there
was also the appointment by the mere vriU of the
Pope of a council of state — and a declared wish to
extend the blessings of education, and repress crime.
Now, these measures are undoubtedly all improve
ments, and are in the right direction; but there is no
security for their preservation. If accompUshed, they
might be revoked by the word of the Pope, or of his
accidental successor.
February, 1847. — Up to this date no constitutional
reform has been granted — that is clear ; and I think
the conclusion of an impartial inquirer must be, that
none such was intended to be yielded by the Pope ;
that, in fact, nothing was further from his mind than
the giring a representative constitution to his sub
jects. The grounds of this conclusion are his declara
tions and his acts. Emphatically did the pontiff warn
his anxious subjects against adopting notions of the-
* I have not heard that any real reform in the Criminal Code has
been effected.— iV^oie to 2d Edition,

HIS CHARACTER AND CONDUCT. 183
orotic freedom, which could not be appUed to the
papal states. Cardinal Gizzi expressed himself dis
tinctly to the same effect. The Pope declared he must
deliver to his sitccessors unimpaired the trust he had
received. To the assembled coUege of cardinals, in
thanking them for his election, Pius IX. promised
" to let no occasion pass by, in which an opportunity
should be granted him of protecting the rights and dignity
of their order." In reply to which. Cardinal Macchi,
speaking for the coUege, warned the Pope that they
feared the licentious and impious audacity of the press,
which wopld, unless curbed, uproot their authority
and that of the Church itself. Then, the law regu
lating this audacious press forbade wholly the dis
cussion, either directly or indirectly, of the pontifical
govemment or its institutions, or the propounding
reforms in either, or in the Church. The use of the
word indirectly, in the edict of March 1847, was so
offensive to the enhghtened men engaged in the
periodical press, that they unanimously resolved' not
to print another paper till it was explained or modi
fied ; and accordingly, during a fortnight the period
icals were not published. One Italian gentleman
connected vrith the Roman press, told me that law
must have been framed by the Jesuits to entrap
unwary authors, as the most innocent observation
inight be twisted into an indirect allusion to the for
bidden subject. Massimo AzegUo, then in Rome,
wrote a pamphlet to soothe the popular indignation
on this tender point. The rirtues of Pius IX,, his
zeal and love for the people, his services in their
behalf, were strongly pressed by Azeglio to induce
the Romans not to demand concessions too large at
once.

184 PIUS IX,
The opinions expressed of Pius IX, by foreign
statesmen, and especially by Sir R. Peel on the 12th
of February, 1847, laudatory of the Pope, were
quoted by Azeglio, to excite the gratitude of his
subjects towards a pontiff of whom the world thought
so highly. What was more to the point — this popular
writer drew attention pointedly to the fact, that of
the five new censors, but one was a priest ; and this,
he argued, should be enough to recommend the law to
the favourable consideration of the people. Azeglio
also dwelt strongly on the character of the men ap
pointed as censors, with one of whom, Signor Va-
nutelli, a retired advocate of fortune, I had the pleasure
of being acquainted. But the board of censors might
be changed in a moment. With this edict the Roman
public were deeply dissatisfied ; nor was the Tndex
Expurgatorius neglected by our enlightened Pope.
The spirited poem, by Signor Rosetti of King's
College, already noticed, was prohibited, with other
more important works.
The reader has seen, from the appendix to Azeglio's
political essay, that one, and possibly he may think
the most reasonable of the demands made by the
ItaUans (led by Signor Renzi) who struggled against
Pope Gregory, was, " that all appointments, civil,
military, and judicial, should be thrown open to lay
men." After the amnesty, Renzi was Uberated, and
waited on Pius IX. to express his gratitude. The
Pope exhibited at this interriew an admirable feeling,
and received the honest conspirator as a friend, drew
forth his manifesto, and admitted that it contained
much that was useful. He then asked Renzi's
opinion as to the measures best calculated to satisfy
the people. Renzi repUed, " The secularization of

HIS CHARACTER AND CONDUCT. 185
all offices of the state." The Pope observed, " That
suggestion I do not consider just — it matters not the
colour of a coat, if the wearer governs with justice."
According to this avowal of the popular pontiff, the
priesthood were to continue masters of the state.
The Scientific Congress wished to meet at Bologna
— that the Pope forbade. The reader, by reference
to the proceedings at Genoa, may determine why.
With respect to his appointments, if some were good,
others were very bad : not to speak of less important
personages, the nomination to a cardinal's hat of
Monsignore Marini, governor of Rome, and head of
the police under Pope Gregory, in whose crafty
nature were combined the tyrant and the spy — ^who
had been the tool of Lambruschini, who had arrested
thousands of innocent men, who had openly protested
against the amnesty — and naturally, as not wishing to
meet face to face the men he had wronged and out
raged. I weU remember the effect which this ap
pointment produced in Rome. There was a burst
of indignation. A satirical suggestion was affixed to
Pasquin's statue, that the next cardinal should be the
public executioner. Marini was universally odious ;
yet did the Pope create him cardinal, increased the
number of obstructives in the college, and gave him
the chance of becoming successor to St. Peter him
self. The excuse was, that Pius IX. wished to get
rid, of an obnoxious governor,* and therefore thrust
him into the sacred college. A Uterary Italian
observed to me respecting this appointment, that now
* The successor appointed to Marini waa Grazzelini, who had been
employed in several important offices under the papacy. Great satis
faction was expressed at the nomination of so liberal, enlightened, and
zealous a reformer to be govemor of Eome. The reader will find
hereafter how Grazzelini fulfilled the high expectations formed of him.

186 PIUS IX,
people were doubtful as to what the future poUcy of
the Pope might be. " He is," said my friend, " a
man, and naturaUy loves power : a priest, and must
uphold his order." Another fact should be noted;
the seizure and suppression of liberal foreign jour
nals during the winter. This frequently happened.
The British newspapers, which wrote boldly respect
ing the occupation of Cracow by the Austrians, were
regularly seized in the post-office. The govemor of
that estabUshment would scarcely have ventured upon
such a proceeding, without higher authority than his
own. Revievring dispassionately the foregoing facts, and
balancing the evidence afforded by the conduct and
declaration of Pope Pius up to 1st March 1847, it
seems to me difficult to conclude that the Pope had
formed any real or comprehensive plan of reform in
the frarae of the papal government, or that he in
tended or vrished to give to his people the blessing of
constitutional freedom. On the contrary, his true
political character appears to have been that of a
benevolent sovereign, who wished to govern honestly,
but absolutely; to execute useful administrative re
forms, but to retain all legislative authority in his
single person ; to soothe the laymen, but to confine
the honours and emoluments of the state to his own
order — the priesthood ; to permit a liberty of discus
sion, saving from its influence all corrupt institutions
and the despotic character of the government ; to
preserve without alteration all the obnoxious priri-
leges of the sacred college, and the unUmited power
ofthe Popedom.
Such do I believe to have been the true character
of Pope Pius in things political. He was shouted

HIS CHARACTER AND CONDUCT. 187
into popularity, without meaning to be the asserter
of Uberty. The bitter opposition he met with from
some cardinals — his critical position — the circum
stances of the times — the loud demands of his people,
forced him onward in a track, glorious I admit, but
which I do not believe he meant originally to pursue.
The Pope forgot, when his oppressed subjects tasted
the sweets of partial freedom, that tliey never would
be content vrith less than the entire blessing, and that
the acquisition of a little Uberty the better enabled
them to secure the whole.
With respect to the ecclesiastical character of Pius
IX., he proved himself to be every inch a Pope.
To all the prerogatives of the infallible head of the
Church he laid claim; to all the doctrines of the
Church he rigidly subscribed ; its ceremonies he
scrupulously performed ; one edition of the Scrip
tures, with notes, he put into the Index Expurgatorius ;
all editions published without his Church's explana
tions were anathematized by his Encyclical Letter,
which pronounced positive judgment of eternal con
demnation on the whole Christian world who belong
not to the Church of Rome. Educated Roman
CathoUcs must in. their hearts be ashamed of the
denunciation, which is no less intolerant than im
pious. It is impossible not to regret that Pius IX.
felt it necessary to follow the bad precedent of his
predecessors ; and that, at a time when good Christians
wished to be tolerant, and to encourage a spirit of
moderation in all others, he should proclaim to the
world his adherence to opinions which are repugnant
alike to reason, charity, and the Scriptures.
There is nothing more remarkable than the bold
front which the Church of Rome presents, Her priests

188 PIUS IX.
unhesitatingly, in the pulpit, throughout Italy, mainr
tain the purity, propriety, and infallibility of the
whole system as we see it. No error, or even blemish,
is admitted. This resolute spirit effects a great deal.
It is not argument, but a peremptory assertion of
infallibility, accompanied by a dogmatical and posi
tive denunciation of all who differ from or dispute
anything with the Church. The evidence of our
senses — the laws of nature — the words of Scrip
ture — offer not the slightest difficulty to a monk ; he
tramples on these ffimsy obstacles by a cabaUstic
word, the Church.
What is expected to be the future success of this
infallible Church, may be collected from the foUowing
sentences taken from a Latin sermon preached before
Pope Pius and his cardinals on the 15th February,
1847, and afterwards printed by authority. The ex
tracts are highly characteristic ; and let not the reader
forget the well-observed tribute of thanks rendered
by the preacher to the Oxford Tractarians, for their
valuable services and indefatigable zeal in the cause
of Rome. The sermon is thus entitled : —
" De Cathedra Romana Sancti Petri, Principis Aposto
lorum — oratio habita in Basilica Vaticaneo — 15 February,
1847. Per Laurentio Randi."
The preacher reviews the history of the heresies
which had afi^cted the true Church. Then a com
plimentary history is given of Henry VIII. "Britannia
descivit — heu miseram infelicemque nationem." It is
added, that Henry VIII. grieved for his apostasy,
and meant to fly to the rock of Peter, which death
alone prevented. This amusing passage follows : —
"Video regno potiri Elisabetham impurissimam femi-

HIS CHARACTER AND CONDUCT, 189
nam, et Catholico nomini ac Pontificise auctoritati infer-
issimam. Qu£e quidem licet maximo in Pontificem odio
exardesceret, tamen et Catholico ritu consecrari, et per
legatum a Romano Pontifice confirmari poposoit."
In referring to the attestations afforded by even
Protestant writers to the excellence of the Romaii
Catholic Church, and the expediency of forming an
union with it, the preacher, in a justifiable tone of
triumph, exclaims, —
" Omitto veros Protestantes, aucfcoritafce gravissimos, in
dicendo disertissimos, in omni litterarum genere excel-
lentes, qui in media Germania excitari videntur, ut hujus
Cathedrse lucem propalanfces animos ad concordiam et ad
commune vinculum reducant. Omitto eloquentissima prae-
clarorum hominum scripta, quse cunofcam fere Brifcanniam
pervagantur, quibus rifcus, disciplinse, mores Romanse sedis
ab impiorum calumniis strenue ac inrictse defendunfcur."
There can be little doubt that the writings of the
Tractarians led the Pope and priesthood of Rome into
the belief that the British people were prepared to
abandon the Reforraation, and enter once more within
the bosora of the InfalUble Church. It was a natural
belief, encouraged and fostered by the presence and
conversation of the Oxford converts in the Propa
ganda. The Roman laity did not, however, share
the delusion : they rightly suspected that the British
nation was not Ukely to follow the example of a few
of their priests, either very weak or very proud.
England is not unUkely to continue what the
preacher would amusingly describe as an unhappy,
miserable Protestant kingdom.

190 PALAZZO MASSIMO.

CHAPTER XIIL
Pius IX. visits the Palazzo Massimo. — Astounding Miracle of St.
Filippo Iferi. — Reflections.— A Book of Miracles. — The Discipline
of Flogging still practised in the Church, as described by Sir
John Hobhouse. — Magnificent Ceremonies of Easter. — Office of
Tenebrse described  The Pope and Cardinals in the Sistine
Chapel. — Michael Angelo's Fresco of the Last Judgment. — Im
pression produced by the Miserere. — Easter Sunday in St. Peter's.
The Papal Benediction. — Service same day in Protestant Church. —
A Comparison.— How did the Primitive Christians worship 1 —
Dr. Newman a Disciple of Filippo Neri. — What System will he
substitute for the Church of England?— The Oxford Movement
dangerous to the Constitution in Church and State. — Concluding
Spectacles of Easter. — Illumination of St. Peter's. — The Girandola.
— A Drive through Rome at Midnight. — Colosseum by Moonlight.
—Meditations. An Opinion of Mr. Laing's disputed. — Has the
Clock of Ages sounded a Reconciliation? Not yet !
There is in Rome a noble family named the Mas
simi ; they claim descent from Fabius Maximus, and,
an earlier patrician race,, and have upheld their rank
in later ages by occasionally accepting the dignity of
cardinal, and office of superintendent of the post.
The Palazzo Massimo, for its elegance and ingenuity
of structure, deserves a visit, and still better for the
famous Discobolus, au undoubtedly Greek statue
which it contains ; a copy of the masterpiece of
Myron. On the 16th day of March there was an
unusual bustle in the streets of the papal city. The
liberal pontiff was in progress in his royal state, to
visit the Massimo family; and to the palace the

PALAZZO MASSIMO. 191
obedient beUevers of the Church were hastening in
crowds. On what sacred duty, to perform what holy
function, is the priestly sovereign bent? Reader,
mark the behaviour of the man lauded as the most
enhghtened sovereign of the age.
The account is taken verbatim from the Roman
Journal of the 27th March, 1847.
"On the 16th day of March was celebrated, in the
chapel of the Palazza delle Colonne, with the accustomed
pomp, the anniversary of the miracle there worked in the
year 1583, by Saint Philip Neri — that of raising from the
dead the young Paolo de Massimi, son of Fahrizio, lord of
Arsoli, which miracle was examined into and proved with
the accustomed formalities, and received as one of the prin
cipal evidences in the process for the canonization of that
saint. The narration of this miracle is given round the
image of St. PhUip, which is distributed every year amongst
the Roman people by the representatives of this noble family.
On the afternoon of this day, his holiness, (as Tnany of his
predecessors have done,) gave an example of piety in re
pairing to honour the palace of the Massimi with his
presence, and to join in tlie devotions ofthe chapel, to which
an immense multitude was flocking. The portico was
decorated with a richly-adorned picture, representing the
miracle, suspended between the columns, whence the palace
is named, hung wifch tapestries adorned with the armorial
bearings of the family. His holiness was here received by
the eminent Cardinal Massimo, in his decorations and
imiform as general superintendent of the post. At the
entrance of the first floor the Princess Massimo, dressed in
black velvet, with a white lace veil and diamonds, accom
panied by the sisters of the Prince, received the holy father
kneeling ; to them he imparted his benediction. The
chamber where the miracle took place has been converted
into a church, ornamented with precious marbles, con-

192 ST, FILIPPO NERI,
taining three altars and a large number of relics richly
enshrined. Here his holiness passed some time in prayer,
whilst the anthem Ecce Sacerdos Magnus was sung by
many voices to the organ. His holiness afterwards passed
infco the throne-room, and taking his seat on the richly-
ornamented chair of state, admitted the whole family and
their domestics fco do homage by kissing his feefc. A Latin
composition in verse was recited by the P. Giaccoletti, of
the Scuole Pie ; and after refreshmenfcs had been served to
his holiness and all his suite, a representation of the miracle
on embroidered silk was presented to him by the Prince,
together with a volume published for the occasion, con
taining engravings of the palace, ifcs description and history
from its origin until the present time, bound in velvet and
gold. His holiness then took leave in terms the most
afiectionately gracious, and drove from the palace amidst
the fervent acclamations of the assembled multitude. This
lias been the first visifc of Pius IX. fco any family among
the Roman patricians in Rome ; and this was to one of the
most distinguished for nobility genuinely Roman, and the
illustrious men that have belonged to it."
Having read this narrative, what can be said
respecting the transaction to which it refers? Pius IX.
sanctions by his presence and worship, the story of
one of the. numerous saints in his Church, named
Filippo Neri, having restored a dead man to life.
We can smile as we read how the image of the
Madonna conversed with Pope Gregory, or at Man
zoni's sarcastic narrative of the miracle of the nuts.
We can resist the juggle of St. Januarius, and even
bear up against the wonders of Santa Filomena ; but
what are we to do with Pope Pius sanctioning this
miracle cf FUippo Neri calling the dead to life?
Reason stands aghast at this prodigy.
Throughout the Sacred Volume there is scarcely to

ST. FILIPPO NERI. 193
be found a more touching or awful narrative than
that of the raising of Lazarus from the dead by the
voice of Omnipotence. Believing that fact, and the
resurrection, an inquirer after truth, supposing him
not before convinced, must become a Christian. But
if common mortals can do the things which Christ
did while on earth, the subUmity of his character is
lessened — ^his miracles cease to be the wonderful
works of the Incarnate God. At his command the
grave yielded back its victim : has death been equally
obedient to the authority of FiUppo Neri ? * The
faciUty claimed by the saints of the Romish Church
of equalling the greatest miracles of Him who spake
as never man spake, is dangerous to religion, because
presumptuous sceptics, disbelieving what is fictitious,
may be equally incUned to doubt what is true. For
my own part, so far from believing the miracle in the
Massimo palace to have been wrought by Filippo
Neri, I should be disposed to doubt the power even
of Pius IX. hiraself to raise the dead to life ; and it
might not be araiss to remind his hoUness, that such
wonders as he sanctions would become very coramon
if every person who fainted, and whom a little vinegar
and water revived, were to be considered as though
he had been dead and miraculously restored to life.
No reasoning observer can, after this exhibition of
the Pope, expect any ecclesiastical reforms from him.
Another painful exhibition occurred in Rome
during my residence in the spring of 1847. Sir
John Cam Hobhouse, in his historical illustrations on
" Childe Harold," written some twenty-flve years
since, thus describes it ; —
* We have been favoured with a new edition of the " Maxims and
Sayings " of St. Philip Neri, arranged for every day in the year, from
the Italian, by the Rev. J. D. Faber.
VOL. III. K

194 DISCIPLINE OF FLOGGING.
" The ceremony of pious whippings, one of the penances
of the convents, still takes place at the time of vespers in the
oratory of the Padre Caravita, and in another church in
Rome. It is preceded by a short exhortation, during which
a bell rings, and whips, that is, strings of knotted whipcord,
are distributed quietly amongst such of the audience as are
on their knees in the nave. On a second bell, the candles
are extinguished — a loud voice issues from fche altar, which
pours forth an exhorfcafcion to think of unconfessed, or un-
repenfced, or unforgiven crimes. This confcinues a suf&cient
time to allow the kneelers to strip olF their upper gar
ments ; fhe tone of the preacher is raised more loudly at
each word, and he vehemently exhorts his hearers to recol
lect that Christ and the Martyrs sufi'ered much more than
whipping. ' Show, then, your "penitence — show your sense
'of Christ's sacrifice — show it wifch fche whip.' The flagella
tion begins. The darkness, the tumultuous sound of blows in
every direction—' Blessed Virgin Mary, pray for us ! ' burst
ing out at intervals — the persuasion that you are surrounded
by atrocious culprits and maniacs, who know of an absolu
tion for every crime — so far from exciting a smile, fixes you
to the spot in a trance of restless horror, prolonged beyond
bearing. The scourging continues ten or fifteen minutes ;
and when it sounds as if dying away, a bell rings, which
seems fco invigorafce fche penitents, for the lashes beat about
more thickly than before. Another bell rings, and the
blows subside. At a third signal the candles are re-lighted,
and the minister who has distributed the disciplines col
lects them again wii^h the same discretion. The flagel
lation certainly takes place on the naked skin ; and this
ferocious supersfcifcion, of which antiquity can furnish no
example, has, after being once dropt, been revived as a
salutary correofcive of an age of atheism.''
Curious to ascertain if the absurd practice just
described still existed, a friend of mine visited at the
appointed hour (nine at night) the church named,
near tbat of the Jesuits, He called on me the next

EASTER CEREMONIES. 195
morning, declaring he had never in Rome endured such
a night's suffering. Each man on entering the church
was supplied with a scourge. After a short interval
the doors were barred, the lights extinguished; and from
praying, the congregation proceeded to groaning, cry
ing, and finally, being worked up into a kind of ecstatic
fury, applied the scourge to their uncovered shoulders
vrithout mercy. The painful scene lasted so long as
to become most disagreeable ; and when my friend
emerged into the fresh air, he rejoiced heartily at
his escape from these misguided fanatics. The scourge
he handed to me, and it is still in my possession ; it con
sists of four pieces of whipcord knotted, and would, if
well applied, give a severe flogging. Anxious myself
to witness this extraordinary scene, I went to the
church, but unluckily it was the wrong everiing.
I heard rauch groaning, and doleful responses to one
priest, who read from a book, with a dim light, but
there was no flogging. Can it be possible that
Pius IX. means to permit such practices to exist as
necessary to the discipline of his Church ?
More agreeable it is to turn to the contemplation
of the ceremonials of Easter, which travellers hasten
.from Naples and Florence to, behold. Properly
speaking; these sacred ceremonies continue from
Thursday morning to Monday night, and they are
of varied character and effect. It would be impos
sible and needless to describe each of these well-
known services here. But as I have spoken freely of
what struck me as censurable in certain j)ractices of
the Church of Rome, in justice I ought to specify
that which appeared to me to be highly aflecting in
her grand dramatic ceremonies in commemoration of
Easter. What I refer to is the office of the Tenebre.
k2

196 SERVICES IN THE SISTINE CHAPEL.
This service denotes the solemn mourning of the
Church over the Redeemer. Its iiame implies the
darkness which miraculously signaUzed the dread
consummation ; and its repetition on three occasions,
refers to a portion of the three days that the Saviour's
body lay in the tomb. It is candidly admitted by the
Catholics, that the details of their ritual have not
sprung at once into their present form, but have
accumulated gradually ; and hence there is a differ
ence in explaining some of their ancient usages, and
especially the ceremony of the gradual extinction of
lights in the office of the Tenebre. Fifteen tapers are
placed on a triangular frame standing near the altar,
one of which 'is extinguished at the end of each Psalm,
till that on the apex is left burning alone, and this is
concealed behind the altar, to be reproduced at the
end of the service, This has by some writers been
explained as symbolizing the prophets, who were
persecuted and successively put to death before the
coraing of our Saviour, the last and true Light,
which, not extinguished, was only briefly withdrawn
by death ; by others, as symboUzing the desertion of
the Saviour in his last hours, when the apostles and
disciples forsook him and fled.
Whatever be the true explanation, let me transport
the reader to the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican, whose
walls and roof are covered with the matchless frescoes
of Buonarotti, The Pope is seated in solemn grandeur
on his throne ; the cardinals in dignified splendour
are ranged on their appointed seats, and near the
altar the fifteen mj^sterious lights are burning. The
choir, comprising the finest voices in Rome, are
not visible, being placed in a low gallery near the
screen which separates the laity from the priesthood.

MICHAEL angelo's LAST JUDGMENT. 1 97
On the altar are only candlesticks. No images, oi'
s(:atuesj or figures, spoil the simple grandeur of the
place. The music, a masterpiece in composition, to
which the Lamentations are chaunted, is the most
thrilling to which mortal ear can listen. The harmo
nious cadences are sometimes so mournful, as to
make the hearers weep. So forcibly were my feelings
affected that I forgot fatigue, and was enabled to
stand for three hours, Ustening to sounds- which at
times resembled more the wailing of spirits than
terrestrial music. At certain stages of the service, a
priest vrith noiseless step moved towards the frame on
which the lights were placed, and slowly extinguished
one. It was strange that an act so simple should
arrest the mind ; yet, as the service proceeded, I
watched this process with intense anxiety ; and when
the last taper was extinguished, I coraprehended the
idea intended to be conveyed, that now the light of
the world was extinguished.
There was a deep unbroken silence. I looked up,
and beheld a fearful representation of the most awful
spectacle the eye of man shall ever see : daring was
his genius, who painted the Son of God in his Divine
Majesty, sentencing the quick, and summoning the
dead ! A dusky light cast its feeble gleam on the
•appalUng flgures, which seemed to rise from the grave
before me. The trumpet has sounded — tombs are
burst open — sepulchres yield up their dead. Some
have already heard the joyful voice, crying, "Come!
immortal happiness* is yours." They are soaring up
wards to regions of bliss. Others — fearful thought ! —
have received their final doom, and the damned spirits
in human form, hurled down, are plunging into outer
darkness and misery unspeakable, Christ has come

198 ST. Peter's on eAster sunday.
again to judge mankind, in majesty and power. Who,
at this moraent of terror, would not cry for mountains
to cover him, unless assured by the mercies of re
deeming love ? The fabric of this world is about to
dissolve into eternal ashes, and God henceforth to
be all in all. Such thoughts rushed into my mind,
as I stood this night before Michael Angelo's sublime,
but somewhat presumptuous, composition of the Last
Judgment. The Miserere, properly speaking, now strikes upon
the ear; the 51st psalm is sung in a manner calcu
lated to excite the deepest, tenderest emotions in the
soul. I do not [wonder that pious Catholics should
feel exalted to the highest pitch of devotion, by
participating in this the most solemn serrice of their
Church. In this every Christian might heartily unite,
and exclaim, " Restore unto me the joy of thy salva
tion, and uphold me with thy free Spirit."
Easter Sunday has arrived. The Italian sky shines
forth in cloudless splendour, and travellers frora every
country and clime are pouring under the glorious
dome of St. Peter's, Another, even grander pro
cession than that described at Christmas, I wit
nessed ;* a more gorgeous ceremony, all that imagi
nation can conceive of earthly pomp, and glittering
show, and papal grandeur, I hurried out into the
beautiful piazza. Countless thousands were there
assembled, the fountains shot up their sparkUng
waters, the obelisk of Egypt told the triumph of the
Cross, the troops with their shining arms glittered in
* The painful exposition of the Holy Relics takes place at this
season in the Basilica of St. Peter's, according to the programme :
" In S. Pietro ia Vaticano dopo il matutino delle tenebre si mostrano
le insigne reliquie della Lancia, Croce, e Volto santo, e lo stesso si fa
dimani, e venerdi santo piii volte."

sermon by the rev, c, girdlestone, 199
the sun, and the stupendous dome above us seemed
as if flung into the air. The Pope appears at the
balcony above. Thousands kneel ; his voice cannot
be heard, but his action can be seen. With out
stretched arms, amidst silence universal, he gives the^
benediction precious to believing hearts. In an
instant, the military music strikes up, the bells which
had been dumb peal forth, the cannon thunders from
St. Angelo. In the midst of which display, I escape
to the humble house wherein the worship of God
according to the reformed faith is permitted. What.
a contrast ! Eight hundred Protestants are here^
. assembled in a chamber unadorned by a single statue.
or picture. Grave in aspect, serious in spirit, a con
gregation of Christians here meet to worship God
with the homage of the soul. There was no bustle,
but a quiet decorum in the listeners, and unaffected
piety in the preacher. This worship appeared to me
on the instant, by comparison and contrast, to be
infinitely inore appropriate, because more hurable,
pure, and scriptural ; — more .acceptable to Him who
judgeth not by outward splendour, but searcheth the
heart. It happened that on Easter-day, the Rev. Charles
Girdlestone preached in Rome, on the suitable theme.
of how we are to bear witness to the resurrection of
Christ. The great subject was handled in an affecting.
and masterly style ; nor were we suffered to "forget
that we trod on ground watered by the blood of
martyrs, who "were beheaded for the testimony of
Jesus." Well was it observed from the pulpit : —
" Were but these faithful martyrs commissioned to
address us forth from their happy realms unseen, they would
indeed be the first to condemn all that superstitiojis honour^

200 A comparison between religions.
ing of their sepulchres — all that fond reverence for their
supposed remains, to which the human mind, whilst left in
childish ignorance, is naturally prone, ' See thou do it
not,' (Rev. xix. 10,) would be their language. Glorify not
man, but God."
We heard an eloquent, instructive discourse, com
pelling reflection on the mighty fact of the Resurrec
tion, and its influence on our iraraortal hopes. When
alone, I endeavoured, so far as it was possible for one
brought up in the doctrines of the Reformation, to
abstract my mind from all partiality for one system
of religious worship above another, and to consider
which of the two forras I had that day witnessed
ought, by a reasoning Christian, to be preferred. I
imagined St. Paul the judge : which way would his
judgment incline ? That would depend on which
was most comformable to his own teaching and prac
tice. Did the primitive Christians worship as I be
held the multitude in St. Peter's that day ? That
would be impossible for any man to believe. If they
- did not, why should we ? In principle, why not make
our practice as nearly as we can conformable to that
of the early Christians ? The doctrine of develop
ment put forward by Dr. Newman I rejected as a
fiction,, almost impious, because implying that Christ
and his' apostles did not fully develope Christianity on
earth. Forms of worship must no doubt be used, —
the more scriptural the better ; those employed by
the Church of England are peculiarly so, and the
preaching I heard this day seemed such as St. Paul
would have approved, because based on his own doc
trine and example. The conclusion of my mind was,
that the reformed faith and worship were most in
conformity with Scripture, and that ours is" in fact,

DR. NEWMAN. 201
the primitive Church. As to the gorgeous ceremo
nies of the Church of Rome, Robert HaU exactly
expresses, in nervous language, what I think : — " The
genius of the Gospel, let it once for all be remem
bered, is not ceremonial, but spiritual, consisting not
in meats or drinks, or outward observances, but in the
cultivation of such interior graces as compose the
essence of virtue, perfect the character, and purify the
heart. These form the soul of reUgion ; all the rest
are but her terrestrial attire, which she will lay aside
when she passes the threshold of eternity." I must
add a few words in reference to what has been termed
the Oxford movement. The great leader. Dr. New
man, I was informed in Rome, became a disciple of
Filippo Neri,* under the special advice of Pope
Pius. This step the pontiff deemed most likely to
advance the cause he has at heart among the EngUsh,
whose character as a 'reflecting people he seems so
accurately to understand. Whether Dr. Newman
has learned in the Propaganda the secret of raising
the dead to Ufe, in which easy affair Filippo was so
successful, I know not ; if he has, the. sooner he puts
it into practice the better ; and I do heartily wish
him success in his benevolent labours. But if his
t)bject be to introduce the whole system and practices
of the Italian Church, as they may be seen all over
* " We hear with great pleasure that Mr. Newman is to retum to
England as a brother of the Oratory, the congregation founded by
tbe illustrious St Philip Neri. This is the first introduction of the
congregation of the Oratbry into England. Its chief purposes are,
preaching, hearing confessions, and giving spiritual consolation.
As appears from Alban Butler's life of St. Philip Neri, it is not a
religious order, the members not being bound by vows, but a oom-
nlunity of secular priests, living together by rule, and available at
any moment for labours of spiritual charity." — Roman Advertiser.
k3

202 illumination of st. peter a.
Italy, into England, together with the intolerant laws
of tiiat Church against religious liberty, and in sup--
pression of the Scriptures — however sincere in this
temperate project he and those who act with him in
the service of Rome may be, they ought to be re
garded as a body of sturdy confederates, against not
only the religion, but against the dignity, happiness,
and tolerant liberty of the British people.
As to the concluding spectacles of the holy week :
On the evening of Easter Sunday we witnessed the
iUumination of St. Peter's. It is not possible to
describe so extraordinary a spectacle — it must be
seen to be understood. What a grand idea, to light
up with an astonishing brilliancy the dome, cupola;
cross, colonnade, and pillars, of this enormous temple!
The massive architecture stands out in a blaze of
light. There are two illuminations, the silver and the
gold : the first begins at eight o'clock, and consists of
400 lanterns ; the second begins at nine, and consists
of 1,500 lamps. Countless carriages filled the vast
piazza. Crowds of pedestrians moved about, yet un
broken order was maintained. My astonishment at
the first view of.the lesser illumination was very
great. The huge dome seemed as if covered with
shining ladders, of which the rungs only were illu
minated. The pillars of the colonnade were dark as
usual, and we sat gazing around, and before us, in
breathless expectation. We were near enough to
witness the preparation for the second illumination.
The clock struck nine ; the pillars beside us shone
forth brilliantly, while the dome burst into a blaze of
shining fire.
The sudden grandeur of this transformation from
comparative darkness into wondrous light, produced

exhibition OF VIREAVORKS, 203
an effect indescribable. We sat and gazed in mute
delight. Having beheld the spectacle under difi'erent
aspects in the piazza, we ascended the Pincian hill,
opposite St. Peter's, which commanded a perfect view
of the cathedral. From this height we found the.
riew far more striking, the effect more beautiful ; a.
clear sky and soft air enabled us to remain nearly
an hour on the same spot, our eyes feasting on the
shining wonder. At this distance the lamps lost
their coarseness, their light was soft and lustrous as
of the stars ; and the ever-beautiful dome seemed in
my eyes to resemble nothing real, hut rather some
object which might be read of in the legends of
romance — the fabric of enchantment, the illuminated
castle of a magician suspended in the air.
On. Easter Monday night, the grand exhibition of
fireworks took place at the Castle of St. Angelo,
anciently the tomb of Hadrian. We secured a bal
cony right opposite the castle, and close to the yellow
Tiber which flowed at our feet. The entertainment
was short, not lasting more than forty minutes, be
ginning at nightfall. First there was a prodigious
explosion of rockets. Sheets of red fire blazed
upwards, and fell like liquid streams upon the ground ;
then foUowed most brilliant representations of illumi
nated castles, cascades of golden flre, rockets shot up
into the air with thousands of fiery snakes, and hissing
dragons, darting forward as far as the eyes could
reach : upon the whole it was as fine a show of the
kind as one could imagine. As I looked upon the
waters of the Tiber, slowly running between theijr
ancient banks, lit up by the blaze of light from the
display df fireworks, I thought of the race of heroes
that once dwelt upon these banks, whose matchless

204 THE COLOSSEUM BY MOONLIGHT.
energy subdued the world, and the memorials of
whose eloquence, courage, and greatness, have not yet
passed away.
No traveller, if health permit, should quit Rome
without avisittothe Colosseum by moonlight. Madame
de Stael has given us a reason for so doing, poetical
and true : — " There is in the sun of Italy a brightness
which gives to every thing the air of a festival, but
the moon is the star of ruins." The visitor should be
in the Colosseum before the moon has fuUy risen,
and, if possible, as the soft light falls on the sumrait,
or touches the highest point of the amphitheatre.
Easter Monday night, when the papal festivities
had ended, was propitious. The silver orb shone
, brightly in the heavens, and we resolved to visit the
Colosseum about the time likely to be most impres
sive from its loneliness and silence, by contrast with
the noise and confusion of the scene described. We
traversed the Forum as if in daylight, passed under
the beautiful arch of Titus, paused opposite the
larger arch of Constantine, and at last entered the
area of the Colosseum. The huge amphitheatre ap
peared of infinitely vaster size than when seen in the
broad glare of day ; and its historic associations then
recurred to the mind with more uninterrupted force.
The clamour of eighty thousand Romans, conquerors
of the world, once filled this space ; it is now a
solitary, but majestic ruin. The circus, once fiUed
with wild beasts or gladiators, to delight a fierce and
cruel audience by their carnage or their agonies,
contains nothing now except a single cross, emble
matic of the religion which has triumphed over
paganism and its splendid fables. Having paused for
a while near the entrance, we felt how peculiarly

RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS. 205
fortunate We were in the period of the night chosen
for our visit. Half of the spacious circus in which
we stood was lighted by the bright moon ; the other
half was enveloped in darkness, caused by the shadow
of the huge wall projecting into the centre of the
amphitheatre. The moon was fast approaching, but
had not quite reached, its highest altitude, so that we
had one half of the amphitheatre in darkness, the other
half in a subdued and gentle light. We stood, and
walked, and mused over the grand and soleinn ruin.
There was nobody to speak to, or interrupt us ; pro
found stiUness reigned in the vast space, unbroken
save by the measured step of the sentinel at either
extremity of the circus. The view we preferred, was
that we had when standing in the shadow. The
ruined mass, with its prodigious proportions standing
out in the clear light of the moon, had an extraordi
nary, yet mournful effect. The sensation produced
upon the mind, was thatof awe mingled with wonder.
It is indeed, " a noble wreck in ruinous perfection I "
We quitted not the amphitheatre till midnight.
We have completed the usual round of what are
called the sacred festivities ; but there are others in
the hot month of June, when St. Peter's is again
illuminated, in commemoration of the festival of St.
Peter and St. Paul.
Reviewing my second winter's doings, I find I have
been running after the Pope and his cardinals, and
from festival to festival, for months, yet have I read
in Mr. Laing's book, to my infinite surprise, that the
Roman CathoUc religion, in Italy, practically inter
feres less with the time and industry of the people
than the Presbyterian. I doubt if this clever writer
passed through the ordeal of attending all the fes-

206 POPE PIUS.
tivals of the Church of Rome, and the carnival. If he
had submitted to the trial, he would scarcely have
broached the novel idea just quoted. I have been in
Scotland ; and am well acquainted with the habits of
that admirable body of men, the Presbyterians of the
north of Ireland ; and beg to differ wholly from Mr.
Laing's view of the matter. From the month of
October to June, all the cereraonies occur in Rome,
and these are the months which in this climate are
peculiarly suited for industry. In summer, the people
cannot labour. I agree in Addison's criticism, that
" the papal government has been so busy in teaching
the people how to die, that it has forgot to teach
thera how to live." To comprehend accurately what
services, stations, festivals, and processions are or
dained by the Church of Rome, we must refer to the
Diario Romano, published by authority, and which
book for the year 1847 now lies before me, consisting
of sixty-two pages closely printed ; and from it we
perceive that there is one or more of these services
appointed for every day in the year. No doubt they
vary in importance. Suppose the people, 'exclusive
of Sunday, attend one-third, what an enoi-mous con
sumption of time is here exhibited! Add to the
religious festivals the popular processions and demon
strations in honour of Pope Pius, and the wonder is,
not that there are so many idlers in Rome, but that
any one is busy amidst such occupations and excite
ments. In concluding this chapter, I cannot refrain from
making an observation on a sentiment which has been
repeated frequently by writers of late — "That the
time is perhaps near at hand, when the people may
incline to the belief that the hour of universal recon-

POPE PIUS. 207
ciliation has sounded from the clock of ages." Surely
this is not reasonable. If we commend heartily every
good measure which Pius IX. has in his political
character adopted, are we consequently expected to
embrace the errors of the Church of Rome ? Accord
ing to this logic, if we deservedly praised the Grand
Turk for his political reforms, we might be expected
to turn Mahometans. We must separate the cha
racters of this extraordinary pontiff; we find him
in his temporal character an honest, benevolent, re
forming sovereign, hating cruelty and oppression, and
anxious to rule his subjects gently and justly ; we
yield him the tribute of praise for his virtues and
noble actions, and would speed him in his course,
On the other hand, in his ecclesiastical capacity, as
assumed head of the whole Christian world, we find
Pius IX. holding fast by all the doctrines which
justified the Reformation, and sanctioning practices at
which reason revolts. Against these we continue
resolutely to protest, which it is our incumbent duty
now to do more than ever.
When Pius IX. reforms the manifest abuses in his
Church, returns to the ancient creeds, allows the free
circulation of the Scriptures throughout his dominions,
and proclaims religious toleration, with an admission
of the right of private judgment, laying aside all
pretence of being bishop beyond the limits of his own
diocese, then " the clock may strike the hour of uni
versal reconcUiation." Until then, never.

208 BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS.

CHAPTER XIV.
Benevolent Institutions of Rome. — Pauperism. — Morality of People.
Madhouses and Prisons.
I HAVE been accustomed in Italy to connect the
crime and poverty of the people in some measure
with their benevolent institutions. Monichini, a
Roman prelate distinguished for learning and can
dour, has compiled a .work in two volumes, on the
charitable institutions in Rome, which cannot be
examined without surprise. No other city in Europe
possesses estabUshments for relief of human misery so
variously and so munificently endowed. Almost every
pope has desired to have his name remembered by
founding or enriching such institutions ; and the
noble Roman families have .followed with astonishing
liberality the example of their sovereigns.
The grand hospital of San Spirito was established
in 728, from time to time enlarged and endowed, and
has now an annual rental of 90,000 crowns, which
(owing to gross mismanagement, no doubt), is insuffi
cient for its expenses; from the years 1831 to 1840,
there were received 134,916 sick into this vast insti
tution ;* in the year 1843, 9,553. Ordinarily, the
number of beds is 300 ; but from July to October,
the malaria season, the number amounts to 1,200.
The income of the benevolent institutions of Rome
• The number of persons wounded, received in one year into the
surgical department, amounted to 456.

BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. 209
in 1809, when the French entered, amounted to the
enormous sum of I,l82,4ii2{. French exactions re
duced this income to less than one-half. There are
various other hospitals, of less size than San Spirito ;
one for cases of stabbing exclusively. Of the esta
blishments of the second class, that is, for affording
maintenance and education, that of St. Michael is
the most important ; an immense edifice on the banks
of the Tiber, wherein the very young and the very
old find refuge and support. The French prefet _
writes of St. Michael, that it is " veritablement digne
de la Metropole de la Catholicite.'" One wing of this
splendid structure answers as a prison for females, and
children detained to undergo paternal correction ; the
residue is appropriated to aged people, and youths,
who are taught various trades under skilful masters :
thus the institution is a school of arts and trades, as
well as an hospital. There are here 140 aged persons,
and 440 young people of both sexes. The resident
physician conducted me over this vast building, not
omitting the spacious front to the river, wholly oc
cupied vrith the palace of the Cardinal Governor,
furnished in princely splendour, and strongly con
trasting with the humble character of the chambers
for the sick. This cardinal, whose salary was great,
Pius IX. relieved, wisely, from sorae of his duties.
The institution enjoys a monopoly of printing cate
chisms, books of dreams, or oracles for the corrupting
lottery, and also of making cloth for the police and
soldiery. This latter monopoly is in defiance of every
rule of poUtical economy, inasmuch as the cloth
could be purchased elsewhere for much less than the
govemment pays this institution to encourage its ex
pensive productions. I could not prevail on the

210 , BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. '
physician of this hospital to conduct me over a mad
house in Rome ; he evaded my request, and bade me
wait till I got to Perugia, where was a well-managed
institution for the insane. There are other establish
ments in Rome, supporting 350 male chUdren. The
daughters of poor parents find in the public charities
resources still more abundant; for besides 200 in
St. Michael, 500 more are maintained in ten other-
houses known under the name of " Conservatoires."
Girls withdrawn from evil courses, widows, wives
abandoned by their husbands, here find repose and
a comfortable existence. The employments of these
females consist in making ribands, gloves, and lace.
The total number in these establishments, including
St. Michael, is 2,140. Many foreign nations have
hospitals in Rome, and there are institutions similar
to most of those already described as existing in
Tuscany. Besides all these institutions, pecuniary succour to
an iramense extent is afforded to distressed families.
Mittermaer writes, " This species of relief amounted
in the year 1828 to 648,120 crowns, all independent of
private charities, which are boundless." The authors
I have referred to ascribe, and fairly, these amazing
exertions in the divine work of beneficence to the
influence of religion; and there cannot be a doubt,
that the Roman Catholic Church and its ministers
inculcate zealously on the minds of their congrega
tions the great duty of practical benevolence and of
almsgiving ; and their teaching is nobly responded to
by all classes of the people. Ladies of the highest
rank in Rome visit the poor in assigned districts, and
relieve their wants.
We have, however, one good test as to a certain^

BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. 211
amount of vice, supplied by another class of the
benevolent institutions — the foundling hospitals of
Rome. In the seventh chapter of his fourth book,
the French prefet explains, with his accustomed can
dour, the working of the system, which undertakes
the charge of receiving all children deposited in
appointed places. The great establishment for this
purpose in Rome is the hospital of San Spirito : the
account given of it is frightful. One thousand children
are annually exposed in the wheel, but a terrible
mortality speedily reduces that number, owing to mis
management, unhealthy apartments, and insufficient
nurses ; insomuch that the calculation is, that hardly
one-tenth part of the children exposed reaches man
hood; and those who escaped death, writes Dr.
Donovan, were so feeble, that when the French
govemment wished to employ the young men in the
navy, of all those brought up in the institution from
the ages of ten to twenty years, only 362 were found
possessed of a healthy constitution.
The mortality, it will be perceived, is terrible ;
amounting to nearly 700 in the year in which 916
only have been placed in the wheel. And this,
although from another part of the return it appears
that not 200 are nursed in the city ; the residue
being put to nurse outside the walls of Rome, The
management is very bad, and the institution seems
but a contrivance, although well meant, for the waste
of human life,* In connexion with this establish
ment, I must draw attention to another of a very
singular character, which assists to supply the San
Spirito with inmates. I allude to the hospital of
* There are thirty-four foundling hospitals throughout the Papal
dominions. The number of children annually exposed exceeds 3,000.

212 ILLEGITIMATE CHILDREN.
St. Rock, of which I extract the foUowing account
from the third volume of a work on Rome by Dr.
Donovan, late Professor at Maynooth.
"This lying-in hospital adjoins the church of Saint
Rocco in the Ripetta. It contains seventy beds, furnished
with curfcains and screens, so as to separate them efi'ectually.
Females, who may have had the misfortune to become preg
nant from illicit intercourse, are admitted even a consider
able time before parturition, without giving their name,
their country, or their condition of life ; and such is the
delicacy observed in their regard, that they are at Uberty to
wear a veil, so as to remain unknown even to their attend
ants, in order to save the honour of their families, and pre
vent abortion, suicide, or infanticide. Even should death
ensue, the deceased remains unknovra. Those who wish
better fare than that afibrded by the hospital, may be
accommodated by paying accordingly. The children are
conveyed fco San Spirito; and the mother who wishes to
reclaim her ofi'spring affixes a distinctive mark, by which it
may be recognised and recovered. To remove all dis
quietude from the minds of those who may enter, the
establishment is exempt from all civil, criminal, and eccle
siastical jurisdiction; and its threshold is never crossed
except by persons of the establishment — that is, the phy
sician, surgeon, two midwives, the prioress, the prior, who is
a priest, and two female servants — in all, eight persons.
Of nearly 2000 pregnant women admitted during ten
years, only eight died in childbirth,"
These are institutions not to be wondered at in a
city where so many thousands of both sexes are
forbidden to marry. But I ought to add, I never
heard any well-authenticated case of immorality
against the priesthood, nor perhaps was I Ukely
to be informed of any; but I have heard trades-

ROMAN MADHOUSES. 213
people in Rome declare It as their opinion that the
priests should be allowed to marry. Professor Mit
termaer writes, that most thinking men in Italy con
sider that these institutions should, if nof abolished,
undergo a rigid reform. There is a curious note,
appended by the ItaUan translator of Mittermaer's
book to page 1 80, wherein the mischiefs produced by
the monks and priests interfering with the physicians
in the management of the sick and inmates of the
public hospitals are pointed out. This, and countless
other evils, will never be abated till the laity get the
upper hand in Rome.
As to madhouses, I got access to the one which
is . connected with San Spirito, and then com
prehended fully why the Italian physician dissuaded
me from the visit. To those accustomed to the
order, neatness, and regularity of lunatic asylums
throughout the British islands, this Roman madhouse
would exhibit a most painful spectacle. While wait
ing to be admitted, my ear was saluted with horrid
yells and cries, from a number of unhappy maniacs
enclosed in one common apartment; and when two
attendants were procured to conduct me over the
institution, what I saw was quite as distressing as
what I had heard. Passing through some corridors,
we -reached a square flagged yard, crowded with in
sane men talking, or rather shouting, at each other,
pointing with their flngers, and evincing a frenzied
demeanour. A burning sun beamed upon them ;
there was not sufficient space for wholesome exercise ;
no kind of occupation was afforded to these inmates,
although they were said to be the least disturbed in
their understandings. Their appearance also was
melancholy, for they were dressed in their own clothes.

214 ROMAN PRISONS.
which were rent and worn ; some were without shoes
or hats. I was conducted through the entire esta
blishment, which is on a great scale, but not particu
larly clean. That San Spirito requires a thorough
reformation, there cannot be a doubt. The salaries
of its superior officers are shamefully extravagant,
Pius IX. has already commenced the good work of
reform, after a personal visit, and it is hoped that he
will persevere.
Inquiring fi-om my legal friend, who accompanied
me, whence the income of San Spirito was chiefly
derived, he answered, " From various bequests and
donations ; nearly the whole country between Civita
Vecchia and Rome (fifty miles), belonging to this
single institution." The condition of that district, in
point of cultivation, affords a signal example of the
mischief of permitting tracts of land to become vested
in corporations of this nature. No improvement
takes place, and nobody cares to make it; and while
the present system lasts, the evil will increase, as
well in reference to the convents and monasteries as
to the great hospitals, which are equally in the haods
or under the influence of the priests and monks.
The two prisons I visited were the Castle of St.
Angelo, and the Carcere Nuovo, the latter of which was
the scene of the murder from which the trial described
sprang. As to the first, the building is well adapted
for a fortress, but not at all so for a prison. It is -
exactly the shape of the Martello towers built round
the Irish coast, to puzzle posterity (as a native ex
pressed it) ; there are no yards, no space for exercise,
and the lower chambers are dismal. Yet here, in the
time of Gregory, many an honourable gentleman
pined for ten years of liis life, deprived of liberty

A VISIT TO THE PRISONS, 215
because he dared to wish for it. St. Angela is still
the prison for State offenders.
The Carcere Nuovo is a solid and extensive build
ing, containing spacious halls, staircases, and lofty
apartments, and is every way worthy a great city.
The yards which I saw were too confined for the
number of prisoners crammed together in them. The
apartment where suspected persons were detained
was very corafortable, and the gentlemen I saw therein
seemed to be quite at their ease. The arrangements
throughout this prison were much superior to what I
had expected, although the classification of criminals
was bad — very wicked offenders being in the same
room with persons scarcely guilty of any crime. I
was ultimately conducted to the cooking department,
and here I was astonished at the food preparing for
immediate distribution amongst the criminals — ex
ceUent beef, bread and wine ; not, as I was informed,
at the cost of the State, but supplied by a charitable
association, whose fancy it is to feed the guilty in
preference to the innocent. In flie office the clerks
were preparing the dally return to be laid before the
Govemor of Rome, containing a precise account of
the prisoners received, discharged, and remaining in
custody, on the evening of that day. The Governor
is supreme over the prisons, police, and management
of the city.

216 FREE -TRADE IN ROME.

CHAPTER XV.
Free-'Trade in Rome. — Mr. Cobden. — Character of the Aristocracy.
Triumph of the Press.— Suspicions of Gizzi.— Conspiracies begin.
The People and the Cardinals.— Reforms demanded.— The Edict
of April. — Political Dinner. — Azeglio's Speech. — Projects of the
Patriots on the Death of Gregory XVI. — A political Sketch of
Pope Pius and his Family. — Expulsion of the Austrians, and re
settlement of Italy long projected. — Conduct aud Designs of
Charles Albert of Sardinia. Rome, au 1st May, 1847.
The visit of Mr, Cobden originated the extraordinary
event of a public dinner — a decided proof that Rome
was progressing towards political freedom. The
persons who managed the entertainraent were few in
number, but distinguished by Intelligence and zeal
for improveraent. The question of free-trade, of
course, was neither comprehended nor discussed by
the mass of the people. I can vouch for the delight
which Mr. Cobden's judicious compliment afforded
the Roman gentry — viz. " That England derived the
origin of her commerce, with her system of book
keeping, from Italy."
The raoveraent In favour of free-trade amongst a
few titled men in Rome, induced me to Inquire from
an Italian devoted to literature, the character of the
Roman aristocracy. He said, Potenziani, Canino,
Corsini, and Dragonetti, (the latter, I Jbelleve, a
Neapolitan,) have exhibited zeal for reforms and
political progress, together with a taste for science,

CONSPIRACIES BEGIN. 217
antiquities, and literature. The rest — that is, the
great majority of the nobility, some having vast In
alienable possessions, — are an Indolent, unintellectual
race, vrithout capacity to lead the people In a career
of improvement, or spirit to originate and execute
brilliant schemes of policy. Even as to making im
provement in their lands, obtained from the State,
they were so backward that Pius IX. has been com
pelled to frighten them Into exertion, by threatening
to do for them, at their own expense, what they have
failed to do theinselves. If Rome is regenerated, it
will be despite the Incubus of her aristocracy, who
prefer inglorious ease and luxury, not unniingled with
superstition, to the noble exercise of permanently
useful benevolence.
The Pope finds his error. In the conflict with the
press he has failed, yielding with an excellent grace
what could not be refused. Advance he must, not
vrithstanding the time-serving policy of Gizzi. The
popularity of the minister has been severely damaged.
The men of the press have triumphed, the obnoxious
edict lies a dead letter, and political discussion has
become more spirited than ever. Good government
Is the thing desired by the people, and the means
relied on to obtain It are tangible, viz, some legisla
tive assembly, a national guard, and a free press.
The belief gains ground that the personal feelings of
the Pope are rather In favour of Uberal concessions ;
and the strongest proof afforded to the people of
their sovereign's desires. Is the hatred evinced towards
him by their determined enemies. Conspiracies have
begun. People express not the least surprise at
these events; they say openly, that the number of
men who prospered under the corrupt system of the
VOL. HI. L

218 CONSPIRACIES BEGIN.
papacy, and by its abominations, is so great, that they
will never yield up their prey without a struggle.
An Italian showed me at this period a political
poem, written by a young physician, lampooning the
suspected cardinals under the characters In a puppet-
show. I was only permitted to look over this pas
quinade, and note these lines ; —
" Oh che a fare ha incominciato,
Dio lo sa nel suo papato,
Quante cose medita,
Se non torna nei confini,
Vud vedere se Lambruschini
Gli I'araenico dara ! "
The ItaUan who had possession of the manuscript
laughed exultingly over the effusion. I asked, was It
possible to believe in the truth of the insinuation ?
It was answered. Certainly. The Pope persevered.
In his career of reformation. I remembered Leo X.,
and his cardinals, and shuddered.
In recording the events of this exti-aordinary epoch,
I do not pledge myself to the truth of popular state
ments; but what I have narrated was deUberately
asserted to me, by as devout a Catholic as any within
the walls of Rome.
What a picture it affords of the morality of those
who affect to be the guides of the whole Christian
Church on earth ! Pius IX. had done no act of
harshness or Injustice, but distinguished himself by
an extension of unbounded mercy, and by a promise
of wise and necessary political reforms. He had not
whispered of ecclesiastical changes, yet his throne
and Ufe are In danger, and from the manoeuvres of
those who had sworn to preserve both. A dark page
of Italian history is this. There can be Uttie doubt.

THE EDICT OF APRIL, 219
that the discovery of the conspiracies formed against
him, had a quickening effect upon the mind of the
pontiff. If he lost the support of the people he lost
all ; therefore, again was he driven by the necessities
of his position to advance, and advance he did, more
boldly and wisely than ever, sustained by the in
vincible power of public opinion. A remonstrance^
or petition, had been presented to the Pope, demand
ing several reforms, and backed by the signatures of
some members of the Pope's family. A municipal
system, based on popular representation, was required ;
also the admission of laymen to all offices In the State ;
and the formation of a general council in Rome, to
be composed of members chosen by the local councils
throughout the piovinces. The answer to this petition
con.sisted in the memorable edict of the 19th April,
1847, whereby the Pope proposed to call to Rome
a person from each province, who, from position,
fortune, and education, would unite the qualities of
a loyal subject, while he possessed the esteera of the
people. The governor of each province was com
manded to send in three names of persons eligible,
from which the selection would be made by the Pope.
The duties or the functions of these deputies were
not defined, and it mattered little, for to any observer,
whatever the Pope may have expected, it was clear
that the people would soon insist on the propriety
of relieving his holiness from the labour of choosing
their representatives. The effect of this step was
immense ; it Imported a radical change In the papal
tyranny, and Its consequences must reach to every
quarter of the peninsula. Thousands of young men
flocked to the Quirinal, and Pius IX. learned the
nature of his concession, by the applauding shouts of
L 2

220
a people resolved to be free. I doubt greatly whether
Pope Pius comprehended the feeling of his subjects ;
but we may be alraost certain, he had not yet con
ceived the thought of parting with any portion of his
supreme power. Two days after the promulgation
of this edict, a grand festival was held In the Baths
of Titus ; nearly one thousand persons were at the
feast : the excuse was to celebrate the foundation of
Rome ; the reality, to talk politics. Dragonetti and
Azeglio were there ; and the latter, in a patriotic
speech, permitted the darling idea with Italians to
escape, namely, the expulsion of the Huns, i. e, the
Austrians, from Italy ; an Idea heartily responded to
by the enthusiastic audience. The newspapers which
published the speeches were seized and suppressed.
This was not surprising, as Austria still had her
ambassador in Rome, and it would be scarce con
sistent with good, faith for the government openly to
countenance the project of expelling one of Its allies
from his dorainions. The historian, hereafter, in
reviewing the life of Pius IX, may, perhaps, con
clude, that a succession of conspiracies led to a
succession of political reforms, the course of events
obliging the Pope to grant concessions which he had
never originally contemplated.
In reference to the political movements In the
peninsula, it may not be uninteresting to the reader to
be informed what the projects of the liberal party in
Italy were, shortly a,fter the decease of Gregory
XVI. Austria took the alarm speedily, asserting that
the subversion of the Lombardo-Venetian kingdom
was aimed at by them ; and in this Austria was per
fectly right. Happening to meet a gentleman In
Rome connected with a foreign embassy, he was so

COMMENCEMENT OF THE REIGN OF POPE PIUS. 221
kind as to lend me a political manuscript, drawn up
In French, and which professed to give an accurate
account of the position of the Pope, and the objects
aimed at by the popular leaders In Italy. I do not
believe this political paper emanated from the French
embassy. My informant, himself a diplomatic agent,
assured me there was no doubt of Its accuracy, A
few extracts vrill not be unserviceable, as casting
light on the history of an eventful period.
This curious poUtical paper describes the various
parties existing up to the death of Gregory XVI. ;
the association formed by Mazzini In London, and
the maxims of FabrizI In Paris ; the abortive efforts
made by the liberals to revolutionize Italy ; and the
consequent state of security into which the Italian
government had fallen : —
" The riews of Pabrizi," it is stated, " of establishing a
great Italian monarchy under one king, were more generally
acceptable than those of Mazzini in favour of an Italian
repubUc. All .the governments were alike opposed to
qhange or reformation. On the death of Gregory XVI., a,
general revolt was expected in ihe States of the Churck
during the vacancy of the papal chair. The speed with
which the new pontifi' was elected — the disunion of the
revolutionary committees, in Bologna and Ancona — the in
decision of Mazzini — and the distance from London, whence
orders were expected, saved the peace of Italy, and the new
Pope was aUowed quietly to ascend the throne."
"Pius IX. is one of a family who have always been
attached to the Uberals. His brothers conspired against
the government of Gregory XVL, were condemned, aud
afterwards pardoned. The Pope had scarcely ever been in
Rome ; he did not know anything about the government
except by the complaints he had daily heard from the in
habitants ofthe provinces, ^nd was rather prejudiced against

222 POPULARITY OF THE POFE,
its abuses. Pius IX. seems to be of a very amiable cha
racter, sincerely beneficent, of a goodness of heart almost
bordering on weakness, wifch the best will in the world,
but no experience ; and though a long time in deciding,
his decisions are neither marked by talent or genius. The
first days of his reign he thought it his duty to display
some energy, and the unexpected results of this display
have contributed more than anything else to place him in
the pafch he intends to pursue. It is a fact that the Pope
accepted with fear the first demonstrafcions of applause
showered on him by the people, and at the same time
showed some vanity in speaking of his popularity. He
repeated often the words, ' Sono Vuomo del popolo.'
" It would be too long to examine into the reasons whioh
have induced fche Pope to enter the path of the above-
mentioned reform. We shall only observe, that there are
suflicient indications for supposing that the present popu
larity of the Pope is only owing to the results of the
meetings of the liberal party, . and that the Pope himself
is the dupe of their manoeuvres : they flatter and ciress
him in order to induce him to take soiqe decisive steps,
and thus compromise him with the cardinals, the priests,
and with the other sovereigns of Italy. They hope, in the
confusion which would then take plaoe, to overthrow more
easily the papacy and the government of the priests.
" The fact is, that the popularity of the Pope proceeds
from the almost general idea that he belongs to the liberal
party. This idea is false ; the Pope himself declares it is so.
This false supposition once generally admitted, there was
no more restraint among the Italians. The liberals who
were already known and declared, were elated beyond
measure ; those who had wanted either the courage or the
opportunity to declare themselves such in the preceding
reign, now did so, and the greafc majorifcy of fche middle
classes were induced to demand reform, to show themselves
libera,l3 and to applaud the Pope.

PROJECTED EXPULSION OF THE AUSTRIANS. 223
" The exultation did not stop in the Romish states. All
Italy was seized with it, and the praises of the liberal Pope
resounded through the peninsula. A book by Gioberti,
well known in Italy, sustained this idea, and plans were
immediately formed for reforming all Italy, and placing
the Pope at the head of the nation. These were dreams
which some cardinals, the prelates, and many of the priests
encouraged ; hoping thus to revive all the ancient splendour
of the papacy and the priesthood. At the same time the
popular associations were not idle ; they also desired to
draw some advantage from the liberal Pope, and endea
voured to procure influence among the people who sur
rounded him. They have to a certain degree succeeded,
and it is ascertained that they have at Rome associates,
and powerfiil managers, who direct by their manoeuvres
the applause which the populace presents to the Pope,
"Although the changes asked for were numerous, the
majorifcy demanded only the introduction of reform, the
expulsion ofthe Germans from Lombardy, and the reforma
tion of Italy hy means of liberal institutions. This public
opinion wanted a centre, a head. The new liberalism
formed by the conduct of the Pope could not submit itself
to the young Italy : and when they saw the Pope had no
intention of placing himself at its head, they began to look
for a desirable one elsewhere.
" Last September several persons assembled at Rome to
deliberate on this matter. They agreed to create a new
liberal association, and decided to assemble themselves in
December at Pootoni, each member bringing some authori
zation, in order to be able to act with some show of legality
These people did, in fact, assemble in December at Pootoni,
a place chosen apparently by them on account of its prox^
imity to the court of Turin, where it appears they had
associates and powerful assistants. They deliberated on
the stafce of public opinion, and they established a secret
society like Carbonarism, making different degrees between

224 . RESOLUTIONS OF THE CONGRESS.
the members of the association. The result of their labours
was, a plan for the division of Italy, and the future arrange
ments, the copy of which follows : — They gave to their
assembly the pompous title of ' National Italian Congress,'
naming five general commissioners, to act with full power,
and make the necessary arrangements for spreading their
sentiments among the mass of the people, and gaining
partizans. Their first care naturally was to obtain the
support of the sovereigns of Italy. It appears, they were
sure of the King of Sardinia, and wq,nted to get at the Pope
hy means of one of his hrothers. The Pope appears to have
given a decided refusal, for at the last sitting of the Con
gress of Pootoni, they agreed to make no further efforts to.
gain him, hut to wait quietly until events forced him to
agrfie with the arrangements ofihe Congress, and to work
in the meantime on ihe minds of the people."
The following were the resolutions of this National
ItaUan Congress —
" 1. The form of government to be adopted shall be a-
confederacy. 2. Political territorial division of Italy, Sardinian king
dom as at present consfcifcuted, — king, Charles Albert,
Lombard-Venetian kingdom to consist of the Lombard-
Venetian territory, and the country of the Tyrol, as far as
the Swiss Alps, The king remains to be chosen,
3. Pontifical States as at present, without the duchies
of Benevento and Ponte Corvo ; instead of which wiU be
annexed the duchy of Mirandola to the banks of the Po.
Sovereign, the Pope.
4. Grand duchy of Parma, consisting of the actual
duchies of Parma, Piacenza, and GuastaUe, with the addition
of the province constituting the actual duchy of Modena
(wifch the exception of the city of Modena and its territory),
and the duchy of Mirandola as far as the Po. Sovereign,
Charles Louis of Lucca.

FEDERAL AGREEMENT. 225
5. Grand duchy of Tuscany, as at present constituted,
with the addition of the duchy of Lucca. Grand Duke,
Leopold. 6, Modena, with its territory, free and federal city.
Principality of Monaco, and republic of St. Marino, as at
present actually constituted and governed.
They wiU be represented at the Diet ; the first under the
protection of the Sardinian kingdom, and the second, of the
holy Roman empire. . ,
Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, as at present constituted,
with the addition of the duchies of Benevento and Ponte
Corvo. Each Italian government shall be essentially representa
tive. The French treaty of 1830 shall form the basis. The
pontifical states remaining elective shall have a national
representative. Fedebai, Agreement,
1. The Italian states above-mentioned shall form a
national Italian confederacy,
2. The Ifcalian confederacy guarantees to each state that
belongs to it, independenoe.
To each kingdom, the liberal exercise of its royal pre-^
rogatives. To each people, the constitution granted by its sovereign
and recognised by the Diet,
To itself, a progressive development of political and
civil prosperity.
3. (a ) To fchis effecfc are to be disposed a land army and
a federative fleet,
(5.) The confederation, in its relation with the external
powers, will have a collective representation. All treaties,
political and commercial, with the external states, shall
only be formed in the name and wifch the authority of the
Diet. (c.) A custom-house law will define the limits of the
Italian confederate cities for an honest revenue,
L 3

226 DESIGNS OF CHARLES ALBERT,
(d.) A scientific institution of industry and literafcurein
Rome, (and at which will assist the members of every
Italian province,) will overlook with assiduity the interests
of material and intellectual prosperity.
4. A Federal Diet will be established in the free city of
Modena, the states participating in the Diet in the fol
lowing proportions : — Votes.
Lombard- Venetian kingdom ... 5
Sardinian kingdom  4
Pontifical states  . 3
Kingdom of the Two Sicilies . . . 5 ¦
Grand Duchy of Parma .... 1
Grand Duchy of Tuscany .... 1

Total , . . 19

The plurality of the votes shall determine the delibera
tions of the Diet. The Pope and his successors are by right
perpetual presidents of fche "Diet.
5. The attributes of the Diet are —
(a.) The perfect maintenance of the declarations contained
in the Article No. 2.
(6.) The overseeing and application of what is expressed
in the Article No. 3.
(c.) Every object of national interest, which, from the
plurality of the representation of one or more confederate
states, shall be subject to its decisions."
The reader will perceive that this programme con
templates the expulsion of Austria from Lombardy,
and asserts that Charles Albert was, from the first,
privy to the design formed for that purpose, which I
do most firmly believe. Remembering what I heard
In Genoa and Rome, comparing the actions of Charles
Albert with the statements in the above diplomatic
paper, it is manifest to me that at an early period

DESIGNS OF CHARLES ALBERT. 227
after the decease of Pope Gregory, the sovereign of
Sardinia formed the perfidious project of expelling
the Austrians from Lombardy, and seizing that beau
tiful kingdom for himself. To gain this object, he
flattered the poUtical writers and literary men of
Italy, affected liberality, while he bound himself to
^nothing definitive In favour of popular freedom, and
stimulated national hatred against the government of
Vienna. Outwardly, Charles Albert continued on
terms of amity with Austria, maintaining strictly his
ancient character for perfidy. That he was suspected
by the Uberals of Italy cannot be doubted. Possibly
they may. If they succeed In driving out Austria,
prefer the Duke of Leuchtenberg. Probably the
course of events may induce them to accept Charles
Albert as king, but with limited authority ; or else a
Federal Republic may be established — a form of
government which, were they strong enough, the in
clinations of many amongst the Uberal party would
incline them to adopt.*
* Recent events' in Italy would seem to indicate the probability of
the scheme of political government traced in this chapter being
carried out. Nor is it improbable the Duke of Leuchtenberg may
become sovereign of Lombardy— that he would be more acceptable
to the great powers and to the Italian people themselves, than the
ambitious monarch of Sardinia, appears now to be nearly certain.—
Note to the 2d Edition.

228; CRIME IN ITALY.

CHAPTER XVI.
Italian Crime. — Love and Murder. — A Criminal Process in the
Roman Law. — A Trial and capital Conviction in Rome. — The
Judges, the Law, and the Lawyers. — Amount of Crime in the
Papal States. — A Curiosity iii the form of a Political Process.
Pope Pius has gained my esteem, by a declaration
said to have been made by him, " That justice ought
to be administered publicly, in order to ensure the respect
and confidence of the people." This may hereafter be
accomplished, but It was a misapprehension to sup
pose that the great reform had actually been effected.
It seems to have been deemed prudent to postpone
publicity of trial till the promulgation of the promised
criminal code, which may be a distant event. Mean
while, by special permission, a few individuals were
allowed to be present at important criminal trials,
when they desired that Indulgence.
The crimes of Italy are peculiar, generallyprompted
by sudden passion, slighted love, jealousy, revenge for
fancied Insult ; and they are often In their circum
stances terrible. Murders are usuaUy perpetrated
with a wfeapon, partaking of the knife and dagger ;
stabbing Is common. I shuddered at the narrative
given me in Rorae of a horrid tragedy which took
place In the Comarca, springing from disappointed
love. An Italian youth passionately loved a girl, who
rejected his suit and preferred another. Jealousy
succeeded to affection. Having waylaid, he assassi-

LOVE AND MURDER. 229
nated the girl he had adored, then plucked out her
heart and wrapped It In a cloth. Soon after, the
miscreant visited the girl's mother, and requested her
to dress for him a calf s heart, which he produced,
Through anxiety to soothe him, the Innocent woman
did so, and partook of the same when cooked. Then
the villain told the unhappy mother she had eaten
her child's heart, and fiendUke exulted in his revenge.
The monster was guillotined.
Soon after the above narrative had been given to
me, I purchased at the Stamperia a judgment of a
criminal court, • printed on four broad sheets, and
which. In the usual fashion, had been placarded on
the walls about Rome. This was a case of atrocious
murder, perpetrated by Luigi Reconari, near Tivoli,
In the Comarca, on the person of a girl named Rosa
Jacione, The accused being an orphan, had been
generously treated by the family of Rosa, to whom he
became attached, Rosa vowed she would rather fling
herself into fhe Tiber than wed Luigi, and plighted
her faith to Francesco Meddi, her flrst lover Lombar-v
dozzi having been condemned to the gaUeys, and
having handsomely released Rosa from ber promise
In consequence. The marriage of Rosa with her
second lover was now arranged ; Luigi became furious,
sold his Uttle property, purchased a sharp dagger, and
watched his opportunity to murder Rosa. On the
14th April, the young girl went a little distance from
her dwelling to wash linen In the river ; Luigi sud
denly sprang upon his victim, twisted one hand in
her hair, with the other stabbed her In the throat, and
when she fell. Inflicted eighteen wounds on her body ;
and then, having satiated his vengeance, fled into
Rome. There, In consequence of threatening to

230 tardiness of criminal law.
assassinate Rosa's brother, Luigi was arrested, and
transmitted to Tivoli for trial. The dates of the
proceedings show the tardiness of Italian criminal law,
and the value of an appeal. The crime was com
mitted 24th April, 1844, the prisoner was arrested on
5th of May, same year, and tried at Tivoli, 15th July,
1845. The appeal to the Sagra Consulta was heard
before II Secondo Turno del Supremo Tribunale, on 2d
September, 1845, and It was reheard before II Primo
Turno del Supremo Tribunale, on 3d April, 1846, and
the prisoner was not guillotined for some months
after. The defence reUed on was, that the crime was
not deliberate, because committed under insane ex
citement, produced by love and jealousy, fhe court
reprehended this mode of exhibiting love, and de
clared passion must be restrained.
The ultimate appeal is only for the purpose of
having argued and decided the right application of
the law to the facts before established. The sentence
placarded before the execution, narrateS not only the
history of the accused and of the proceedings, but of
every witness and person connected with the case.
During this winter my attention was excited by an
extraordinary event which occurred In the principal
prison of Rome. Several prisoners under sentence
having procured knives, rushed suddenly upon the
gaoler and many others, stabbing. It was reported,
fourteen Individuals. Before the trial of these
offenders I applied, through an advocate of my ac
quaintance, for permission to attend it, which was
courteously granted ; and In order to enable me to
understand thoroughly the proceedings, my legal
friend procured for me beforehand the process, that
I might analyze the same.

A CRIMINAL process. 231
A criminal process In the Roman law Is a curious
document. It Is not a dry technical indictment, but
a narrative of facts,"a statement of evidence, with a
copious argument on Its effect. The paper was
headed, " Bisultanze del Processo, Tribunale del Governo
di Roma." It was printed on coarse paper, half the
page left vacant for margined observations, and It con
tained forty-one pages. The accused were V. Car-
dinale, carpenter ; R, Formilll, tailor ; G, FrancionI,
shoemaker ; L. Adami, weaver. The process thus
began, " In a cause of qualified theft, February,
1847, i. Sorrentini, a prisoner, received a pardon on
certain conditions, and with reservation of a year's
detention. By his disclosures several of his asso
ciates In custody were inculpated, and amongst them
the four persons named. The case of theft was heard
35th November, 1846, and the four prisoners were
condemned chiefly on the evidence of Sorrentini,
against whom they became enraged." The situation of
the rooms, halls, corridors, and windows of the prison
are then accurately described. The process proceeds,
" On Sunday morning, 29th November, the turnkey
coming to distribute the usual allowance of bread,
negligently left a specified door open behind him.
The four prisoners, armed with knives, rushed in,
. overpowered the turnkey, and stabbed every person
they met, but especially Sorrentini, Having fully
gratified their vengeance, they submitted to the
guard, and were distributed In separate cells," The
above Is the substance of the case, but it extends to a
great length. Of eighteen persons In the hall, ten
were wounded, one died ; Sorrentini surrived, having
suffered severely. There Is next given a partial con
fession made by three of the prisoners, which was to

232 A CRIMINAL process,
the effect, that Sorrentini bad promised to retract his
statement, yet perfidiously repeated his accusation ;
and that the knives Were found accidentally, wrapped
In a cloth In a corner of the corridor, and used with
out premeditation, in consequence of S orr en tinl's jeers
and Insults,
The process next falsifies the matter of these
several confessions, " in linea generica," i. e. In a
general way; then "in linea specifica," i.e. specifically.
Under this latter title the whole case Is gone into. In
sections, and by proofs and probabilities, and concise
reasonings on both, concert, malice, and deliberation
are established. As to the procuring of the knives,
one A, Rea, a prisoner, having been examined, proved
that by the aid of a small looking-glass, peeping
through the bars of his window for a purpose of his-
own, he sawa boy tying to a cord, (let down from
another window of the prison into a back street,) a
bundle containing two loaves of bread, and heard the
boy announce to the prisoners above that the loaves
were heavy, Rea suspected these loaves contained the
knives, and on Inquiry It appeared that the prisoners
were accustomed In this way to introduce every for
bidden object. The contradictions in the statements
of the accused are next pointed out with great par
ticularity. We have now arrived at page 34 of the
process. The precise case against each prisoner Is
now separately stated, and the evidence In sections
regularly numbered, pointed, and applied to each of
the accused, and thus the criminal process closes.
This document was clear, methodical, and full, and
would afford an admirable model for a criminal brief
in serious cases, even In England. The cause Is now
ready for public debate, and It Is time, as we have

A TRIAL. 2o3
reached the 6th of March, and the crime was com
mitted in November In the principal prison of Rome.
A copy of this process was furnished to the advocate
for the accused, and ample time allowed to prepai-e
for the defence. The trial took place 13th March, at
nine o'clock. In an apartment of the court-house,
which was clean and profoundly quiet. On a raised
platform sat four judges, three with black caps, the
fourth In a dark purple gown. The procurator fiscal,
dressed In a black silk gown, sat at the corner of the
table, near enough to whisper to the judges ; he was
a gentlemanlike person. At a smaU table below the
platform, on one side of the bench, sat, arrayed In
coarse black gowns, the advocates for the prisoners ;
near the oval table before the judges was a chair for
witnesses, and close to it was a glazed picture of the
cross lying flat on the table. There was one regis
trar, of unprepossessing aspect. These persons were
all shut In by a raU, having a passage in the centre
open for witnesses. Right opposite the judges was a
bench, and on It, close to my seat, were placed the
four prisoners. One leg of each was firmly bound
by a rope to a holdfast behind the bench, the other
leg left free. Guards with fixed bayonets stood be
hind the accused, who were all young men. There
were, besides the officials, about eight persons pre
sent at this serious trial ; no relative or agent of the
prisoners was there to take a suggestion from them,
to assist or befriend them. The chief judge, a coarse,
blustering man, commenced the business by reading
briefly parts of the process. He then severely Inter
rogated each prisoner, first as to birth, occupation,
&c. ; then on the merits of the case In question,
telUng the accused what had been proved against

234 CONDUCT OF prisoners.
them, and how very wicked they were, demanding
what they had to say to that. Then began a shock
ing scene of abuse and noisy recrimination between
the accused and the speaking judge, who was cer
tainly " no well-tuned cymbal," The .prisoners spoke
with boldness and insolence. Whatever they alleged,
the chief justice Invariably answered. It was a lie.
Each of the accused In turn Indulged In an angry
declamation, explanatory of his conduct, and made
his case thus: — " I was unjustly condemned to fifteen
years' imprisonment ; the evidence of Sorrentini was
false; the sentence cruel. When I saw Sorrentini
In prison, he scoffed at me, and told me jeeringly I
should be happy In the galleys. Incensed by his
gibes, on the morning the door was left open in the
gaol, I ran in, and finding by accident some weapon,
I struck at Sorrentini, not Intending harm against
any other person. As to what passed In the corridor,
being Inflamed by passion, I cannot say."
The Chief Justice violently replied to all this ;
asserted that their original condemnation was quite
just, and their behaviour wicked. After this scolding
match, In which it appeared clearly enough that the
mind of the judge was made up on the business, the
Chief Justice cooled down, called the first witness,
examined him entirely himself. Rarely was a ques
tion suggested to the court by the submissive advo
cates for the accused. Each witness was sworn by
the judge, and the form consisted In laying the hand
on the cross described, after the judge declared the
oath. Sometimes the judge scolded the witness for
not giving such evidence as was expected; frequently
he recounted to the witness what a previous witness
had proved, or what was stated in the process, and

THE CHIEF JUSTICE. 235
asked him what he could say to that. Then the
Chief Justice, If so disposed, would mock the witness,
at which all present. Including the prisoners, laughed
heartily. Of the five or six witnesses who were pro
duced, most of whom had been prisoners, all, with one
exception, had either been In custody for wounding
another, or had themselves been wounded. The Chief
Justice always asked the witness who was his father,
and whether he was dead or alive. When the turnkey
appeared, the judge fell upon him with surprising
fiiry, abused him for leaving the door open, for gross
neglect of duty, and for having created the whole
trouble of the trial by allowing the prisoners an
opportunity of rushing at Sorrentini. The attack
over, questions were put to the terrifled turnkey, and
if he hesitated an Instant, the judge assailed hitn un
mercifully. When the examination of the gaoler was
finished, he was seated In court during the rest of the
trial, and appealed to In all difficulties. When a
witness was examined, the Chief Justice, addressing
each prisoner, asked what he had to say to that. The
prisoner, shaking his unfettered leg, generally an
swered. It was a lie. This inflamed the mild temper
of the judge, who angrily asked the accused how he
dared say that ? how could he expect the judges
would disbelieve so many witnesses and his own par
tial confession ? There seems to be no law of evi
dence whatever, as we understand it, in the Italian
procedure. The judge desires the witness to tell all
he saw, heard, thought, or believed about the matter,
and the witness does as he is bid, counsel never
interrupting or remonstrating; every statement Is
received In evidence — a system fatal to innocence.
No doctor was examined, nor was the Important

236 ARGUMENT OF ADVOCATES.
evidence of the Introduction of the knives given ; the
statement In the process was relied on, I suppose, as
sufficient for these matters. The Chief Justice haring
the process before him, called as many witnesses as
he pleased. Sorrentini was produced, a wretched
looking man ; he survived eighteen stabs, while
another prisoner died frora a single wound.
When the Chief Justice stopped, the procurator
flscal began, and spoke, sitting in the position de
scribed. His style was very gentlemanUke and easy.
His exordium consisted of an eulogium on the Roman
law ; he talked of filosofia e divina sapienza. In a
very amusing strain ; then he referred to the code,
and cited a few articles, to prove the crime premedi
tated murder ; but he did not review the evidence,
preferring generaUtles, and submitting to the pro
found wisdom of the court. The burly Chief Justice
whispered to the sleepy old man beside him, then
mended his pen, and looked pleased on the procurator
fiscal. This gentleman spoke an hour. Then com
menced one of the advocates for the accused, who
likewise spoke sitting ; he ranted the most arrant
bombast, with theatrical gestures and In the wildest
manner, about philosophy, wisdom, the Roman
heart, and the over-ruling Providence. Not an allusion
did he make to law or fact, and concluded In a storm.
Signor Raggi, the official defender of accused men
who were too poor to employ advocates, then spoke
composedly, and like a man of sense ; he argued that
the act was unpremeditated, dwelt on the excitement
of the prisoners, owing to the Insults of Sorrentini,
and observed fairly, that no evidence had been given
to show that the knives had been surreptitiously In
troduced to the prisoners, or to contradict their state-

SIGNOR RAGGl's JOURN.'VL. 237
ment of having found them accidentally, and therefore
contended that the crime of premeditated murder had
not been committed.' We were now turned out of
the chamber where the judges remained, and In half
an hour their minds were made up — they sentenced
the four young men to be guillotined, and, until
executed, to be loaded with Irons, and confined in
separate cells. Not a Uttle affected by what I had
witnessed, I hastened away, comprehending more
clearly why the Italians preferred taking their chance
on the field of conflict with the government, rather
than submit to their tribunals. The' accused were
no doubt guilty, but there was a coarse cruelty, a
heartlessness, and insulting violence exhibited to
wards them. Inexpressibly shocking to one accus
tomed to the temperate and Impartial administration
of justice.*
One of the advantages of the partial freedom of
discussion now permitted In Rome has appeared In
the publication of a journal of jurisprudence and
criminal law, compiled by Signor Raggi, the official
advocate for the poor, to whom I am indebted for
much courtesy. The learned author prints Important
judgments In criminal cases, (a novelty,) essays on
particular subjects of jurisprudence, and the like. No
such journal ever appeared before in Rome ; nor, so far
as he Is aware. In any other part of Italy. This
publication is highly creditable to the compiler, and
will be eminently useful. Several criminal cases are
pithily reported, the necessity of Improvements
* Several months afterwards I leamed the fate of the four indi
viduals I bad seen condemned. One of them died in prison ; the
punishment of the remaining three persons was commuted into
hard labour in the galleys for twenty years.

238 AMOUNT OF CRIME.
pointed outj the beneflts of education in repressing
crime, and similar topics, are considered. There Is
also an excellent article, translated from a Swiss
pubUcation, on our English system of trial by jury.
The origin, history, and value of this tribunal are
shown ; but It Is weU argued, that such a mode of
administering justice must be received In connexion
vrith the character, habits, Institutions, and education
of the people ; and that what suited England, with
her independent gentry to form grand juries and act
as sheriffs, would or might be totally unsuited to
Italy, Germany, or Switzerland, or even France.
The author writes : —
" The smallest stafce in Germany may in two hours sefctle
a jury system on paper ; but may Heaven defend me from
falling under the jurisdiction of such a tribunal !"
All this Is very sensible ; men must be accustomed
to such an institution before they can understand its
value, or use It advantageously.
It Is very difficult to ascertain with exactness the
state of crime In the papal states. There are no
official retums. The present Pope has commanded
tables of crime to be kept regularly In future. I
applied, however, to a well-informed advocate for
Information on this subject. In reference to the single
class of crime of stabbing, and of murder In conse
quence. His written reply stated, that the number
of assassinations In Rome and the Cojjjjarca* In one
year amounted to about 90 ; and that cases of stab
bing were innumerable. The returns of Dr. Bowring,
in 1832, give but an Imperfect idea of crime In the
papal states; for example, political offenders have
Province of Rome, containing about 280,000 inhabitants.

A POLITICAL PROCESS. 239
increased enormously since. It appears, that In the
delegations of Macerata and Ferrara, criminal sta
tistics were attended to. Macerata contained 212,061
inhabitants In the year 1835; there were 18 homi
cides, 229 cases of stabbing, 950 of less serious bodily
injuries, with a variety of other classes of crime,
amounting to 2,145 cases. In Ferrara, the population
was 210,883; and in 1843 there were 41 homicides,
450 stabbings, 1,150 cases of theft, 37 of horse
stealing, 26 setting fire to dwellings, with other
offences, amounting In the whole to 2,626. A dismal
picture this of the moraUty of the modern Romans 1
Litde wonder Is It that Pius IX, exclaimed, "Educate
these people." Idle is it to say, that such education
as may be given by weak nuns and fanatical monks
will store the mind with sound principles, repress
violent passions, and qualify men for society. No
doubt, hatred and distrust of the tribunals and their
abominable systems of procedure, have had much
to do in extending crime amongst the people. The
Romans are not worse than other nations naturally ;
and Napoleon's prefect. In his valuable work (chap. vi.
book iv.), has shown how, (by publicity, impartiality,
and justice in the tribunals, corabined with prompt
ness and certainty In the punishment,) Rome was
comparatively free from crime during the French
occupation. Under the opposite system, crime has
enormously increased. May It be the glory of Pius
IX. to lessen the eril, by removing the causes or
applying a remedy !
I had long been anxious to procure a political
process In the Roman law, but found It difficult to
do so. Through a friend of the gentleman affected
by ^t, I at last obtained a process, which had been

240 PIETRO LEONI.
compiled in 1847, under the orders of Pius IX. It
was drawn up In consequence of a petition from
Pietro Leoni, who had been discharged under the
amnesty, after ten years' imprisonment, to be restored
to his former office. Pietro had acted as official
attorney to the poor, and had been in 1831 arrested
on a charge of being connected with a political
society. He was acquitted, yet the governor of
Rome added to the judgment of acquittal, sentence
of deprivation of office, "Induced by certain pru
dential considerations." Against this arbitrary act
Leoni remonstrated warmly, but ineffectually. To
sustain an aged father, wife, and children, Leoni now
laboured Incessantly. In November, 1836, he was
again arrested suddenly, and torn from the embraces
of his family. Thrust Into the Castle of St. Angelo,
he was subjected to a rigorous examination, from
which nothing could be elicited, nor could he divine
the cause of this second prosecution. The procurator
flscal said he had reason to believe that the accused
was a vehement propagator of liberal principles,
emanating from a secret society, for which he had
incurred the penalties of the law. Leoni demanded
justice against his accuser. Not long after one S., a
vine-dresser, came forward to accuse Leoni, and
made this absurd allegation : — That Leoni, although
before wholly unknown to him, called at his house,
and in the presence of him and his sons conversed
with him, S, ; then called him aside, and consigned
to him a manuscript concerning La Riforma Settaria,
to which he had belonged for some years. That he,
S,, received the paper, and buried It with some arms
at the root of a tree In his garden, Leoni denied all
this assertion. The wife and sons of S. were caljed.

A POLITICAL PROCESS, 24]
and contradicted S. The garden was then searched,
but nothing was discovered under the tree, nor did
the ground appear to have been disturbed.
Leoni now deraanded his discharge. Ultimately,
18th August, 1837, his process was fully heard, when
he was condemned, not for the crime alleged, of being
the propagator of liberal opinions, but of conspiracy
against the sovereign ; and sentenced to the galleys
for life. This Incredible sentence depended on the
information stated by S., and on the Information of
three witnesses (God knows who they were), who
deposed, that they understood Leoni belonged to
some secret society, although they had no know
ledge of him whatever. On this proof of hearsay on
hearsay, (non di fatto, ma dictum de dicto,) Leoni was
pronounced a conspirator. In t^e year 1 846 he pre
sented, after a cruel iraprisonraent of ten years, a
memorial to Gregory, printed in this process, which
Is one of the most affecting documents I ever read.
It begins — ¦
" Most holy father, divest yourself of the splendours of
royalty, and, dressed in the garb of a private citizen, cause
yourself to be conducted into these subterranean prisons,
where there is buried not an enemy of his country, not a
riolator of the laws, but an innocent citizen, whom a secret
enemy has calumniated, and who has had the courage to
sustain his innocence in presence of a judge prejudiced or
corrupted .... Command this living tomb to be opened,
and ask an unhappy man the cause ofhis misfortunes.''
The memorial concludes thus —
" But, holy father, neither the prolonged imprisonment
of ten years, nor separation from my family, nor the total
ruin of my earthly prospecfcs, should ever reduce me to the
baseness of admitting a crime which I did not coramit.
VOL, III, M

242 CHARACTER OF THE ROMAN ADVOCATES,
And I call God to witness that I am innocent of the accu
sation broughfc against me ; and that the true cause of my
unjust condemnation was, and is, a privafce pique and per
sonal enmity  Listen, therefore, to justice — to the
humble entreaties of an aged father — a desolafce wife — un
happy children, who exisfc in misery, and who wifch fcears of
anguish implore your mercy."
This appeal produced no effect on the stony
hearts of the men who practised such cruelties as
this paper discloses ; and very natural it was that
Lambruschini and Marini should have resisted the
amnesty which enabled hundreds of gentlemen, such
as Pietro Leoni, to unmask their villany to the world,
A Roman advocate assured me that this political pro
cess accurately exemplified the iniquity of the Papal
system under Gregory,
I ought not to omit recording my opinion of the
abilities and learning of the Roman civilians ; were I
to judge by the printed arguments of Signor Vanu-
telli, several of which he was kind enough to present
to me, they are of a very high order. The argu
ment on a serious question is drawn up carefuUy —
I might say, elaborately — ^In Italian, and occasionally
in Latin ; it resembles an essay. When printed, it is
laid before the court. The subject is dealt with In a
scholar-like fashion, and prhiciples are reasoned or
derived from the faraous writers on the civil law, and
learnedly applied. The discussion Is not so practical
as with us, nor are cases quoted in the like trades
manlike style. Such compositions, therefore, of the
Roman advocates as I have referred to, are far more
interesting to read than English reports of cases.
The authors generaUy prefix to their essay a Latin
quotation, and constantly refer to the classics through-

CHARACTER OF THE ROMAN ADVOCATES. 243
out, and feUcitously apply the same. The Latin of
these ai-giiments might safely be termed classical. I
think that knowledge of the ciril law and acquaint
ance with classical literature Is possessed by the
learned members of the Roman bar In higher per
fection generally than with us. In their manners
the Roman advocates are friendly and courteous. I
believe them to be patriotic ; and if an opinion could
be formed from unreserved conversations on political
subjects with two or three advocates, they are, as a
body, resolutely opposed to intolerance, misgovern
ment, and oppression, and necessarily anxious for the
aboUtion of the tyranny of the priesthood, I believe
the Roman lawyers weU qualified to enjoy all the
rights of freemen, and I shall hail with delight then-
advent to power and authority in the State,

M 2

244 THE GEMS OF ROME,

CHAPTER XVII,
THE GEMS OF ROME.
During a morning's walk on the Pincian hill, I feU
in with a learned sculptor of my acquaintance. The
treasures of the Vatican became the subject of our
conversation ; he said he had been for many years
convinced that the arrangeraent of the galleries was
radically erroneous, particularly in the department of
sculpture ; the good, the bad, the Indifferent objects
of art, were all crowded together, so that the risitor
was embarrassed by the profusion, and distracted by
the raultitude of objects spread around hira. It would
have been more judicious, observed the critic, to have
separated the excellent things from the mass, and so
have made a little museum of the gems In the Vatican,
which would have afforded a great facility of Inspec
tion to the stranger, even to the artist. The truth of
these remarks I was more fully convinced of each
time I visited those prodigious collections, and
laboured through my thick catalogue. It would be
a work of years to examine the whole contents of the
Vatican accurately, and It would be labour misapplied.
It occurred to me it might be of use to have a selec
tion made of the works of classical or historical
interest, of the great masters in sculpture, for the
assistance of the visitor, and even for the entertain-

STATUE OF THE NILE. 245
ment of the general reader. Distrusting my own
judgment upon such a subject, I appUed to the most
distinguished living sculptor In Rome, (who I rejoice
to think Is an Englishman,) and mentioned to hira
what I desired to have particularized by some com
petent person — viz. the gems in sculpture existing
In Rome, I cannot forget the courtesy of Mr,
Gibson ; he was at the raoment engaged on a highly
classical composition ; he laid down his chisel, and
bade me take my pencil and he would dictate to ine
the Ust (not a long one) of those masterpieces of
sculpture which constituted the glory of the art. I
give that list as I received It, merely adding a few
words of explanation where necessary.
1. The Minerva Medica, in the Nuovo Braccio of the
Vatican, is the study of sculptors for ifcs gracefulness,
dignity, and majestic beauty. Ifc is of Parian marble, and
said to be the finest draped statue in existence. The
traveUer should never omit the opportunity of gazing on
this famous specimen of Greek sculpture. Exactly opposite
the Minerva stands another draped figure of Minerva
Pudicitia, so called, which although nofc named by my
scientific friend, may surely be menfcioned in the briefest
catalogue of the gems of Rome.
2. The Statue of tlie Nile, a wonderful piece of sculpture
carried off by Napoleon's orders to Paris, and now restored.
The group is allegorical ; a grand colossal figure in a
recumbent posture is surrounded by sixteen children, ex
quisitely formed, and sporting around their gigantic parent
in every conceivable attitude ; the forms of these children
are graceful and true to nature. On the base are sym
bolical representations of the river, boats, alligators, the
hippopofcamus, &c. This colossal statue was discovered in
the Pontificate of Leo X., on the site of fche Temple of Isis,

246 APOLLO BELVEDERE,
3, Demosthenes. This seemed to me more to resemble a
philosopher than a vehement orator ; the figure is standing
as it were listening, it may be to the denunciations of
Eschines. The marble of this statue is old and worn, not
haring a smoofch or polished appearance ; the figure is
grave and severe, a countenance full of impressive dignity,
tinctured vrifch pride : fche severe taste of the Greek exhi-
bifced throughout. 1 could not examine details ; my atten
tion was fastened by the character infused into the marble
by the genius of the great sculptor. This celebrated sfcafcue
my informant pronounced one of the best to examine
repeatedly in the whole collection.
The Museo Plo-Clementino, where rests the classic
sepulchre of Scipio, contains : —
4. The Torso Belvedere, called Michael Angelo's Torso,
as he declared that his power of delineating the human form
was acquired from the study of this fragment so prized by
sculptors. This headless, footless relic, which Winckelman
pronounced as approaching almosfc to the sublime, and
which is so famous, is said to be the fragment of a statue of
Hercules in Repose. The greatest modern sculptors, follow
ing the example of Michael Angelo, make it their study ;
certainly it exhibits bone and muscle, and wonderful exe
cution. John Bell contrasts this fragment with the
Farnese Torso in Naples. " The grandeur of the Belvedere
Torso is in the form of the shoulders ; it was eminently
fitted as a study for the grand and fiery Michael Angelo ; it
suited his temper and genius."
5. The Apollo Belvedere, in one of the cabinets of the
Corfcile Belvedere, found at Antium in the reign of Jiilius
II. , and supposed to have stood in the baths of an imperial
residence. The contemplation of this glorious work of ancient
art Inflamed the genius of Byron : —

GALLERY OF STATUES. 247
" Or view the Lord of the unerring bow.
The God of life, and poesy, and.light—
The Sun in human limbs arrayed, and brow
All radiant from his triumph in the fight ;
The shaft hath just been shot — the arrow bright
With an immortal's vengeance ; iu his eye
And nostril beautiful disdain, and might
And majesty flush their full lightnings by.
Developing in that one glance the deity."
6. The Laocoon. This celebrated group was also found
in the Pontificate of Julius IL, who is said, from the greafc
value he afctached to the possession, to have rewarded fche
discoverer with a large porfcion of the revenues of the basi
lica of St. John Lateran. It is an amazing piece of sculp
ture, "the wonder of art," as Michael Angelo, who was
in Rome at the time of its discovery, pronounced it. The
group consists of a father and two sons, writhing in anguish
in the folds of a serpent's morfcal grasp.
7. The Mercury of the Vatican, commonly called the
Belvedere Antinous. This is one of the most graceful,
admirably proportioned, and highly finished statues I have
ever seen. The general symmetry of the figure is somewhat
impaired by the loss of the right arm, but the faultless
form and eleganfc repose of this statue fix it in the memory
not much less firmly than do the life, action, and manly
beauty which characterise " the lord of the unerring bow,"
the Belvedere Apollo. GALLERY OF STATUES.
8. The Ariadne, (called improperly Cleopatra,) a colossal
draped figure, recumbent, in the attitude of profound sleep.
The form, drapery, and posture of fchis statue are consi
dered most graceful.
9. A fragment of Cupid, called, I believe, the Genius of
the Vatican, of Parian marble, and supposed to have been
the work of Praxiteles.
10. An Amazon — a statue greatly prized.
11. Two Greek Philosopliers, sitting.

248 HALLS OF THE VASE, AND OF THE BIGA,
In a small apartment of this Gallery, called the Cabinet
of Masks : —
12. A crouching Venus.
13. A Faun, in Rosso Antico.
14. Adonis.
15. A little Paris. HALL OF THE VASE.
16. Colossal head of Jwpifer.
17. Hercules with a child.
18. The finest colossal bust of Hadrian in existence.
19. The Antinous.
20. Jupiter Serapis — colossal bust, first-rate piece of
sculpture. 21. Colossal statue of iTmwo.
HALL OF THE BIGA.
22. The Discoholus, by Myron. This statue is in a
stooping posture, and considered the gem of this apartment.
23. A Discoholus, standing ; a remarkable statue.
24. The Indian Bacchus; also very fine.
25. A Bacchus. The statue, curious as mingling the
form of man and woman.
In the long gallery, Museo Chiaramonti, Mr. Gib
son selected only two pieces of sculpture out of seven
hundred, 26. The beautiful bust of Augustus, as a boy, copied by
almost all the modern artists. It shows the consummate
hypocrite to have been eminently beautiful, and it bears a
resemblance to the countenance of Napoleon. This bust
was found at Ostia, by the late British consul, some fifty
years ago. The other was a statue of Tiberius.
AU else, said the English sculptor, are Inferior In
the Vatican, These are the finest things now exist
ing in the world; you never can waste time in

GEMS OF THE CAPITOL. 249
Studying them. He added, the Venus and the Apollo
In Florence might be classed with thera.

The Gems of the Capitol are : —
27, The Dying Gladiator. — A statue true to nature,
that rivets the attention of every beholder. How accu
rately is it desoribed by that just critic, John Bell !
" It is a most tragical and touching representation. The
design is in this sense finer than anything in statuary I
have ever seen. The forms of the Dying Gladiator are not
ideal or exquisite, like the Apollo — it is all nature — all
feeling. The risage is mournful — the lip yielding to the
effect of pain — the eye deepened by despair ; the skin of
the forehead a little wrinkled ; the hair clotted in thick
sharp-pointed locks, as if from fche sweafc of fight, and ex
hausted sfcrengfch. In short, for powerful effect and mourn
ful expression, never came there from the hands of the
artist a truer or more pathetic representation.''
We must ever regret that John Bell was not spared
to add to or complete his criticisms on Rome and its
treasures, 28. The celebrated statue of Antinous. — The distin
guished anatomist is eloquent in his commendafcion of
Antinous — his criticism is professional ; fche charm of the
composition is, that it conforms to the rules of anatomy.
This statue has elicited the praise of all beholders, from its
surpassing gracefulness and beauty,
29. A head, called that of Ariadne.

30. To these may be added, the gem of the Villa Albani,
The beautiful Antinous, crowned wifch lofcus flowers, as fresh
and as highly-finished as if it had just left the sfcudio of the
sculptor. " This work, after the ApoUo and the Laocoon,
is, perhaps, the most beautiful monument of antiquity that
time has transmitted to us." It is a bas-relief.
M 3

250 SELECT PAINTINGS,
The statue of Demosthenes is stiU present to my
view; the raighty orator Is restored to life. The
Dying Gladiator seems just to have sunk down before
my eyes In the arena ; his resolute spirit, in the
inoment of mortal agony, breathes in the marble.
Wonderful triumph of genius, which can thus by the
chisel tell a history !

I shall next endeavour to select the paintings most
prized In Rome from the vast number of pictures with
which the galleries are crowded; the Corsini alone
reckoning six hundred. Indefatigable sIght-seers wade
through the voluminous catalogues presented to them,
but works of mediocrity everywhere abound. To
aid hira who may prefer rather to retain the recollec
tion of some beautiful things, I have made out a list
of the gems in Rome in the department of painting.
The enumeration is given alphabetically, according to
the names of the masters whose productions are
noticed. The pictures are scattered in the various
palaces, museums, and churches through the city,
which are particularized.

ALBANI (Francesco).
There are but few of Albani's paintings in Rome ; the
subjects he selected not being generally religious, but those
in which a playful fancy could expatiate, such as smiling
landscapes and mythological groups. There is much ele
gance pervading all his designs.
Palazzo Colonna. — The Rape of Europa.
Oapitol. — Madonna and the Saviour.
Palazzo Spada. — Time unveiling Truth.

BUONAROTTI  CARACCI  CARAVAGGIO, 251
BUONAROTTI (Michael Angelo).
The genius of this great man was universal. He was
at once, sculptor, architect, painter, poet, musician, and
scholar. He was also a profound anatomist. His cele
brated work in the Sistine Chapel we have already desoribed.
The ceiling of the same chapel represents the most impor
tant evenfcs recorded in the book of Genesis — the creation
and fall of man, and its consequences. In the compart
ments are sitting figures of prophets, and of sybils, who
are supposed fco foretel the coming of our Saviour.*

CARACCI (Annihale).
Annibale Caracci was by far fche most distinguished of
his family. In the gallery of the Farnese Palace, a series
of fi-escoes of mythological designs are conceived and exe
cuted in masterly style. The subject is the triumph of
Bacchus and Ariadne, drawn in golden cars by tigers, and
surrounded by satyrs, fauns, and bacchantes, led on by old
Silenus, &c. It is said, this work occupied eight years of
constant labour, and the great artist was rewarded by the
Cardinal Farnese wifch 500 crowns !
In the Oapitol. — A Madonna aud Child, with St. Cecilia and a
Carmelite Saint.
Borghese Palace. — A Pieta. Head of St. Francis; finely
coloured.
Doria Palace. — A Magdalen. The Flight into Egypt. The
Assumption of the Virgin. The Entombment of Christ. The
Nativity. St. Francis, with Angels ; and the Adoration of the
Magi.

CARAVAGGIO.
The works of this powerful painter are characteristic of
his mind and mode of life ; he is said to have been a man of
wild passions, and to have passed through a most tempes-
* See the note on the Sybils, in. the excellent work of Kugler, by
Eastlake, page 203.

252 COREGGIO,
tuous career. He is most successful in scenes of sorcery
and murder, or painfully minute representations of mar
tyrdom. One of his greatest efforts is the Fntomhment of
Christ, in the Vatican, The lights and shades of this
striking picture are executed with almost unmatched
power. It is copied in Mosaic in St. Peter's.
Sciarra Palace. — The Cheating Gamesters ; one of his best
paintings.
Oapitol. — Gipsy Fortune-Telling. Meleager.
Corsini. — St. Peter.
St. Maria del Popolo — Crucifixion of St. Peter, and Conversion
of St. Paul.
Doria Palace. — Hagar and Ishmael.
Spada Palace. — A Female Musician. St. Anne and the Virgin.
Borghese Palace. — A Holy Family.

COREGGIO.
A great master. Kugler truly says, "Coreggio knew
how to anatomize light and shade in endless gradation, to
give the greatest brilliancy without dazzling, the deepest
shade wifchoufc offending fche eye by dull blackness.
Borghese Palace. — The Danse. She lies half raised on a couch ;
Love, a beautiful youth, sits beside her, catching the golden
rain-drops in her drapei-y. In front of her couch, two Cupids
are employed sharpening an arrow, with graceful naiveti.
The form of Diana is exquisitely modelled.
This is the great picfcure of Coreggio in Rome, and should
be frequently seen.
S. Luigi in Francesci.—k. Virgin in the Sacristy.
Capito?.— Marriage of St. Catherine.
Oorsini. — A small picture of Christ.
It may be doubted if these three last-named are by
Coreggio: but in Rome they are confidently asserted to
be his.

DOMENICHINO — GUERCINO. 253

Domenichino.
The Vatican contains the celebrated picture of this
great painter, " Ttie Communion of St. Jerome," considered
second only to the Transfiguration by Raffaelle. Ifc is
copied in Mosaic in St. Peter's.
The Borghese Palace confcains another of his best works ;
an oil painting, representing Diana and her nymphs, some
of whom are shooting arrows, and some bathing. This is a
most graceful painting, full of life and animation,
Borghese Palace. — The celebrated Camasn Sybil.
S. Andrea della VaMe contains some of his great frescoes. In
the vault of the Tribune — The Flagellation and Glorifica
tion of St. Andrew ; and in four angles are frescoes of the
four Evangelists.
S. Gregorio Church. — Another celebrated fresco of the Flagel
lation of St. Andrew, (described elsewhere.)
S. Luigi de' Francesi. — Some brilliant frescoes.
St. Maria in Trastevere. — The Assumption. A fine fresco.
S. Silvestro di Monte CtejiaKo.— Four paintings on the cupola of
the second chapel, representing David dancing before the
Ark. The Queen of Sheba sitting with Solomon on the
throne. Esther and Ahasuerus ; and Judith displaying the
head of Holofemes.
For composition and the style of the drapery, Lanzi
considers these amongst his finest frescoes.
St. Maria degli Angeli. — The great fresco of St. Sebastian.
Copied in St. Peter's in Mosaic.

GUEECINO.
This painter is of the school of Caracci. His works
display great power and depth of feeling, as we see in that
most touching picture, the Dismissal of Hagar, in the gal
lery at Milan. There is also much sweetness, and a most
delicate combinafcion of colour, in his paintings.

254 GUIDO — POUSSIN,
Vatican.— The Incredulity of Thomas. A distinguished work.
Villa Ludovise.- — His celebrated Aurora, in the garden pavilion.
S. Pietro in Vincoli. — The beautiful picture of St. Margaret.
CfepifoZ.— The celebrated Persian Sybil ; and Sta. PetroniUa,
the finest picture in the gallery of the Capitol ; it was
formerly in St. Peter's, where it has been replaced by a
copy in Mosaic.
Corsini Palace. — The Ecce Homo.
Doria Palace. — The Magdalen.
Sciarra, — St. Jerome — St. Mark — St. John — St. James.
Spada Palace. — David with the head of Goliath. Dido ; one
of the finest pictures in this collection. The countenance of
Dido is expressive of great beauty, the figure and posture
of peculiar grace, and the drapery gorgeous.

Guido (Reni).
This refined and gifted artist, whose genius we have
before extolled, needs bufc a passing aUusion : his reputafcion
is fully established. His greafcest productions are, I believe, in
Bologna ; but Rome possesses many of his exquisite works.
Rospigliosi Palace. — The matchless fresco of Aurora.
Gregorian Convent. — St. Andrew adoring the Cross ; a fresco.
Cappucini Church. — The Archangel Michael.
Vatican. — Europa ; very fine. St. Sebastian ; a, celebrated
picture. In the secret cabinet is — The Fortune of Guido,
called by Lanzi, " one of the prodigies of Guido's art."
Sciarra Palace. — Maddalena alie radici ; one of the most inter
esting of pictures.
S. Lorenzo in Lucina. — At the high altar, the subUme picture
of the Crucifixion.
This great work must be frequently visited.
Barberini Palace., — Beatrice Cenci.
The most celebrated portrait in Rome, and perhaps inthe
world.

Poussin (Nicholas)
•Doria Palace. — Nozze Aldobrandini, (already described.]

ROSA  ^ROMANO  SPAGNOLETTO  TITIAN. 255
Rosa (Salvator).
Oapitol. — Two Landscapes.
Doria Palace. — Death of Abel. The well-known landscape
called the Belisario.
Spada Palace. — Head of Seneca.

Romano (Giulio).
Borgliese Palace. — Copy of Eaffaelle's St. John, iu the Tribune
at Florence.
Oorsini Palace. — The Judgment of Paris.
Capitol. — Judith ; very fine : and a Holy Family, in the Hall of
Audience.

Spagnoletto.
A Spaniard. His pictures exhibifc great power ; but
like Caravaggio, whose style he adopted, he selected painful
subjects, such as executions, tortures, and martyrdoms.
Barberini Palace. — St. Jerome.
Borghese Palace. — St. Peter.
PontiJicio.^Sit. Jerome.

Titian.
This great painter, who flourished in the fiffceenfch cen
tury, received a learned education, and lived in habits of
intimacy with the philosophers and poets of his time.
Princes and emperors honoured him as the first of portrait
painters. He was twice received at Augsburg by Charles V. :
and he was inrited to Rome by Paul III. He died of the
plague, in his ninety-ninth year. His pictures in Rome are: —
Sciarra Palace. — A Madonna and Child : very beautiful.
Vatican. — Madonna and Child surrounded with Angels. St.
Sebastian ; a fine figure, pierced with arro .vs. St. Frances,
with the Cross. St. Anthony of Padua, with the Lily. St.
Nicholas, St. Ambrose, and St. Catherine.

256 VOLTERRA  VINCL
Oapitol. — Woman taken in Adultery.
Barberini. — Two Portraits.
Borghese Palace. — Sacred and Profane Love. An Allegorical
subject ; the colouring of this picture is peculiarly brilliant,
and the delineation of the human form masterly.
Corsini. — Children of Charles V. Two Portraits.
Doria Palace. — Portrait of an Old Man. The Holy Family,
and St. Catherine.
Spada Palace. — Portrait of Paul III.

Volterra (Danielle da). A scholar of Michael Angelo.
In the Trinitd di Monte is his great work — The Descent from
the Cross. (Before described.)
Capitol. — St. John the Baptist.

ViNci (Leonarda da).
This accomplished and gifted artisfc appears to have
possessed an universal genius — painter, sculptor, poet, and
musician, as well as master of all the sciences bearing upon
art ; author also of some works on physics. It is said of
him, that he risited all frequented places, the scenes where
the active powers of man are most fully developed, and he
drew in a sketch-book which he always carried what most
interested him. He followed criminals to execution, to
witness the pangs of their despair — invited peasants to his
house, and related laughable stories to them, that he might
learn from their physiognomies the essence of comic expres
sions. His easel pictures are very scarce, and highly
prized. One of the best aufchenfcicated is in Rome, in
The Sciarra Palace, — Modesty and Vanity. Two female half
figures. Copies of this muoh admired picture are to be
found throughout Italy. The original is indeed a gem.
Corsini Palace. — A Female Portrait.
S. Onofrio Church. — ^A Madonna, in fresco; admitted to be
genuine.

VERONESE  RAFFAELLE, 257
Veronese (Paul).
The pictures of this artist are celebrated for briUiant
colouring and their gorgeous display of drapery, costumes,
and architectural accompaniments, &c. They are well
described as " like full concerts of enchanting music.''
Oapitol contains the Eape of Europa. A repetition of the
masterpiece in the Ducal Palace at Venice.
Oapitol. —The Kneeling Magdalen.
Borghese Palace.— St. Anthony preaching to the Fishes ; (before
alluded to.) Venus and the Satyr.
Braschi Palace. — Lucretia.

Raffaelle.
The greatest artisfc of modern fcimes. Like Michael
Angelo, his genius was nofc limited fco one branch of arfc,
as we find he fills an imporfcant place as an architect ; he
was also an antiquarian ; and there are proofs of his genius
as a sculptor. But all his ofcher talents were eclipsed by
that for painting. His '-magic power is the spirit of
beauty, which filled his whole being, and shines through
all his creations." He executed some frescoes for churches

Sta. Maria delta Pace, — representing four Sybils, surrounded
by Angels : one of his most perfect works.
St. Agostino Church. — The Prophet Isaiah and two Angels,
holdmg a Tablet.*
Tlie Sciarra Palace contains a celebrated work, called The
Violin Player.
Barberini Palace.— The Fomarina.
Borghese Palace.^-The Entombment of Christ, painted for the
Church of San Francesco, in Perugia. His first historical
picture, executed in his 24th year. This is a solemn and
most affecting painting.

* A very beautiful fresco of the Last Supper has been lately dis
covered on the wall of an old convent in Florence — an undoubted
work of Eaffaele; one of the figures has his name transcribed
npon it.

258 RAFFAELLE,
Another picture, executed about this time, and said to
have been finished after his death, by Giulio Romano or
F. Penni, is the Coronation of the Virgin, now in the
Vatican. I myself do not admire this picture.
But ray readers are aware that the great works of
Rafi'aelle are contained in the Vatican, Three stanze,
or rooms, and a large saloon, all painted In fresco,
are now called the " Stanze of RaffaeUe." Each wall
is covered with some large picture, and the entire
ceiling is also painted. The proximity of Michael
Angelo, then at work in the Sistine Chapel, perhaps
inspired hira. What a pair of rivals !
We shall flrst describe the loggie, or open galleries,
built round three sides of the court of the Vatican.
They consist of three stories : the side facing the city
was finished by Rafi'aelle ; the first arcade of the
middle story was decorated with paintings and stucco
under Raffaelle's direction. This leads to the stanze ;
the harmonious combination of architecture, model
ling, and painting here displayed. Is the production of
one mind. The paintings of the vaulted celling are
the chief ornaraents of the arcade. The subjects
taken from Scripture, chiefly the Old Testament, are
called " Raff'aelle's Bible." Many of these were
executed by Giulio Romano. The second and third
arcades are by inferior artists, and contain the New
Testament history. However beautiful and curious
this loggie Is, we cannot but regret that the genius of
Raffaelle should have been misappUed to labours In a
place not worthy of them.
Another of his works was the execution of ten
great cartoons, intended as designs for tapestries to
adorn the Sistine Chapel, These tapestries are kept

RAFFAELLE, 259
in one of the rooms In the Vatican. The subjects are
taken from events in the lives of the Apostles, The
cartoons, some of which have been preserved in the
palace of Hampton Court, are bold and masterly in
execution. But the wonderful genius of the great
artist Is best exhibited in the frescoes covering the
" Stanze of Ralfaelle." In the first, called —
1. Camera della Segnatura, the subjects which engaged
his great powers included Theology, Poetry, Philosophy, and
Jurisprudence. That called —
Tlieology is dirided into two parts. The upper represents
our Saviour throned in the clouds — the Virgin on his right,
and St. John the Bapfcisfc on his left ; a half figure of the
Almighty, with the Holy Spirit in form of a Dove, is seen
above ; Apostles and Saints surround this group. In the
lower part of the picfcure is an alfcar with the Host, the
symbol of Christ on earfch. Near this are seated the greafc
fathers of the Church, while on each side are groups of
figures, pressing forward to participate in the holy mystery.
Some of these are remarkable as containing portraits —
Rafi'aelle is himself seen and Perugino as bishops — Savonarola
clad in black — and Dante, whose head is encircled with a
wreath of laurel. There are also portraits of Bramante and
St. Thomas Aquinas.
Philosophy, known as " The School of Athens." We have
here represented a stately building or hall, in the centre of
which, on a flight of steps, stand Plato and Aristotle dis
puting on their doctrines, and on either side are groups of
attentive hearers. Socrates is seen explaining his princi
ples to attentive listeners. In the foreground fche Sciences
of Arithmefcic and Geometry are presented in separate
groups ; on the left, Pythagoras, as fche head of Arithmetic :
on the righfc, Archimedes draws a Geomefcrical figure on
a tablet placed on the ground. Zoroaster and Ptolemy, as
representatives of Astronomy and Geometry. Apart from

260 RAFFAELLE.
all, reclines on the steps, Diogenes with his tub — a youth
turns from the Cynic to the instructors in a higher philo
sophy. Near the group which surround Archimedes,
Rafi'aelle himself appears wifch his masfcer Perugino. — This
grand composition cannot be too highly praised. Ifc con-
- tains fifty-two figures, of masterly execution. In the group
ing of these figures, in their dignified expression, graceful
attitude, and picturesque eff'ect, and in the general arrange
ment of the subject, the inventive genius, exact taste,
and unrivalled powers of the great artist are fully
developed. Jurisprudence is represented by three sitting female
figures, personifying Prudence, Temperance, and Fortitude,
Under thfe latter figure is the Emperor Justinian, delivering
the pandects to Tribonian, in allusion to the civil law. On
the other side, Gregory XI. is seated on the Papal throne,
delivering the decretals to a consistorial advocate, in allu
sion- to the canon law. This fresco occupies the arch over
the window, and the wall on each side. I greatly prefer
the conception of that named —
Poetry. Apollo and the Muses are grouped under laurel
trees on Mount Parnassus. Immortal poets are placed in
proper order below. Homer is exhibited as if in the act
of dictating or reciting verses. Near to him are ranged
Virgil and Dante — Pindar and Horace — Petrarch and
Sappho, somewhat lower down than Hpmer. The concep
tion of this Composition is poetical and exalted — a delightful
harmony pervades all the parts, and the spectator enjoys in
beholding it a refined pleasure.
2. " Stanze of the Heliodorus ; " so called from its prin
cipal picture — The Expulsion of Heliodorus from the Temple.
Lanzi says of this great work, " Here you may almost
fancy you hear the thundering approach of the heavenly
warrior, and the neighing of his steed, while in the diiferent
groups who are plundering the treasures of the Temple, and
in those gazing intently on the sudden consternation of

RAFFAELLE. 261
Heliodorus, without being able to divine its cause, we see
the expression of terror, amazement, joy, humility, and
every passion to which human- nature is exposed."
The bold execution and rich colouring of this composition
is unsurpassed. TJie Mass of Bolsena, over and on each side of the window.
This represents the miracle wrought before a priest who,
doubting the doctrine of Transubstantiatlon, was convinced
by seeing blood flow from the wafer he was in the act of con
secrating. Groups of persons, their countenances expressive
of wonder and awe, press forward. On one side of the
altar kneels Julius IL, attended by several Cardinals, and
his Swiss Guard.
Attila. This firescoe represents Attila at the head of his
army, aboufc to enter the gates of Rome, when his purpose
is stayed by the warnings of Leo I., and the apparition in
the heavens of St. Peter and Sfc. Paul, at which he gazes in
terror, while hia army, in wild confusion, begin to retreat.
The Pope is a portrait of Leo X. the then reigning pontiff.
The Deliverance of St. Peter from Prison. This picture
occupies the wall around a window, and is particularly
celebrated from presenting four difi'erent lights ; over the
window the angel is seen through the gratings of the prison
awakening Peter, who sleeps between his guards ; he is
then led by the angel through the guards, sleeping on the
steps. The figures here are all illuminated by the beams
of Ught emanating from the angel ; on the other side of the
window are seen the guards aroused, and in sudden alarm
searching for their prisoner — one holds a torch ; the moon
shining in the distance lights up this group. This picture
is deeply interesting, as well from the subject as from ifcs
efi'ective execufcion, especiaUy in the curious and varied light
it displays. It is one of the few pictures criticized by
John BeU.
3. Stanze del Incendio. This also contains four great fres
coes — The Incendio del Borgo ; the Justification of Leo III.

262 RAFFAELLE.
before Charlemagne ; the Coronation of Charlemagne by
Leo IIL; andthe Victory of Leo IV. over the Saracens
at Ostia. Much of this was done by the scholars of
Raffaelle. 4. Sala of Costantino. T'nis was painted under the
direction of Giulio Romano. The principal piece is the
bafcfcle of Constantine and Maxentius at the Ponte Molle
near Rome. Ifc represents the moment of victory, and, as a
composition, exhibits an animating and spirifced represen
tation of a great battle. Maxenfcius sfcruggles in the waters
of the Tiber ; his great rival presses forward in triumph.
We now come to speak of the last effort of this unrivalled
but short-lived artisfc — The Transfiguration I Panegyric
has been exhausted on fchis great picture. Bold was the
genius of the artist which could attempt to delineate with
the pencil the mystery of fche Transfiguration, and succeed
almost fco perfecfcion. I never beheld this sublime compo
sition without wonder and delight ; and however admirable
the few great pictures in the same apartment are, they look
cold and feeble in immediate contrast with this sublime
performance. Some small critics have objected that here
are, in fact, fcwo separafce pictures, and not one united whole.
Rafi'aelle has, in the lower compartment, portrayed the
events described in the passage of the 9th chapter of Mark,
which immediately succeeds the account of the Transfigu
ration. Here are nine of the disciples actively engaged and
variously depicted, their countenances agitated by con
tending emotions, their costume singularly appropriate ;
each face is a distinct and admirable portraifc, and all
are as graphically drawn as fchose in the Last Supper by
Da Vinci. But what has excited fche disciples ? A demoniac
boy, possessed, is presented to them, which their frail
powers cannot heal. The youfch struggles fearfully wifch
his tormenfcors, his eyes are fcurned upwards and distorted,
his arm oufcsfcretched, every nerve is sfcrained ; his parent
stands near, imploring aid from the disciples wifch fche eyes

RAFFAELLE. 263
of faith, and a finely-drawn female figure, suffering from
aflaiction, gives additional infceresfc to the scene. The great
artist has cast infco the countenance of the disciples a look
of deep compassion, combined with a consciousness of help
lessness. The grouping of the various figures in this
lower part of the grand picture is masterly. The design
of this porfcion of the painting is to exhibifc the miseries of
human life ; the prevalence of a devilish influence ; the
helplessness of the best men unassisted ; and fche necessity
of appealing to a divine power. But it is the upper part
of this picfcure (which is formed by an elevation to repre
sent Mount Tabor), that transcends all praise. The three
disciples are in diff'erent attitudes, nearly prostrate on the
earfch, awed by the marvellous glory and radiant light
which surround their beatified Saviour. Whether we
regard the figure, divine countenance, or seraphic beauty of
Christ floating in the air, " in serene beatitude," we are
equally amazed at the courage of fche artist in attempting
to portray a scene so awful, and at his success in the exe
cution of his design. The two prophets, Moses and Elias,
accompany their Saviour God, and are delineated wifch fche
like felicifcy. The very drapery of these figures, in colour
and form, as it waves by the motion in the air, exhibits
the genius of the great painter. In the Transfiguration,
writes Lanzi, " Raffaelle has developed all his combined
ideas of majesty and beauty ; it may be considered his
masterpiece, and seems to us the most sublime heighfc to
which the genius of the artist, or even the art itself, was
capable of aspiring." *
?'The only blemish on this great picture is that.cansed by the in
troduction of two figures of priests, thi-ust iuto oue corner most in
appropriately. The reader will not be surprised to leam that
EaffaeUe was over-persuaded by, 1 believe, tbe son of Giuliano de
Medici, brother of Lorenzo, aind afterwards Clement VII., to intro
duce these figures iu honour of his family — a piece of inordinate
vanity, in keeping with the character of the family.

264 THE CAVALIERE CAMPANA.
I am not carried away by a passion for the fine arts, but
deliberately do I assert, that a man is compensated for his
journey to Rome by beholding this single picture of the
Transfiguration, painted by him who was described by
Vasari as " a magician, whose presence difi'used joy and
happiness, made the marvellous possible, and eff'ected the
closest union between the most opposite minds."
I cannot quit this interesting subject without
alluding to the private collection of Etruscan antiqui
ties made by the Cavaliere Campana, which is one of
the greatest curiosities in Rome. This accompUshed
gentleman has devoted his fortune and his time for
fifteen years past to the collection of Etruscan an
tiquities, and his museura is perhaps unique in
Europe. Himself a scholar, and Irabued with a
passion for real antiquities, he has frora the tombs of
Etruscan cities, and from various towns, raade up his
valuable collection. His rich materials are arranged
with consumraate judgment In a series of spacious
apartments, carpeted, heated by fires, and being In
winter as comfortable as an English raansion. This
is an agreeable lounge, whereas such a gallery as the
Hall of the Animals in the Vatican (an ice-house in
temperature) is death to the Invalid. Here are vases,
sarcophagi, bas-reliefs, ancient armour,- gold oma
ments of the most delicate workmanship, a bed of
Etruscan time, curious glass vessels foupd In tombs,
looking glasses, &c. It would be impossible to
describe minutely the contents of this choice and
well-arranged museum.
I was rauch struck by the representation of the
adventures of Ulysses, on bas-reliefs, (not of marble,
but of a hard stucco,) taken from Etruscan monu
ments ; here he appears bound to the mast, and the

CAVALIERE CAMPANA's MUSEUM. 265
wicked syrens in vain singing to his deaf companions ;
on another he Is represented as meeting Penelope, &c. :
it seemed to me, this plainly proved the superior
antiquity of the Greeks, for thdr Homer afibrded
subjects for Etruscan art to work upon.
The enjoyment of this gentleman consists In giving
pleasure to others. On certain days in the week he
tlirows open his house, to all, I may say, for tickets of
admission are easily obtained, by the English par
ticularly ; and the Cavaliere Campana takes delight in
explaining to others what he so thoroughly under
stands himself, — the antiquities of his native country.
He Is the best specimen of an ItaUan gentleman, frank,
courteous, educated, tolerant ; his heart beats with
love of country, and he proves how capable Italy's
gifted sons are of InteUectual labour and political
freedom. In these respects, and more especially in
the UberaUty with which he throws open his collec
tions to the pubUc, he sets an example which many
an English nobleman might do well to follow. For
the tendency of the present age Is not so favour
able to aristocracies of any kind as could be desired.
And the members of these privileged classes have it
In their power to conciliate general good-will, by
that which would really cost them nothing — cirility
and kindness.

VOL, m.

266 EXCURSION TO VEII.

CHAPTER XVIII.
EXCUESION TO VEII.
The Flaminian aud Cassian Way. — Situation of Veii. — Walk across
the Campagna. — Italian Cultivation. — Wretched Condition of the
People in this District. — The Etruscan Tomb of Veii. — Formation
and Contents. — Discoverer, the Cavaliere Campana.

" Haec fait ilia dies, in qua Veientibus arvis
Ter centum Fabii, ter cecidere duo." 20th March.
The raorning was as genial and warm as our finest June
weather. In an open carriage a joyful party started
to examine the antiquities of Veil, the Etruscan city,
famous In Roman history for the ten years' siege under
CamiUus. We Issued from the Porta del Popolo,
and journeyed along the Flaminian Way, across the
Milvian bridge and the old Tiber, which flowed pretty
much we may suppose as it did 2,000 years ago. It
seems the gardens of Ovid were near the spot where
the Flaminian and Cassian Ways diverge.
"Nee quos pomiferis positos in collibus hortos,
Spectat Flaminia — Claudia juncta vias."
There was and is a hostelry near this spot, which
Nero frequented, and the low fellows of Rome still
carouse. We now diverged to the Cassian Way,
which, notwithstanding Its flne name, was not much
better than other roads in this country. Five miles

excursion to VEII, 267
on, we reached the ruin on the road side called the
tomb of Nero — a ridiculous misnomer. This huge
sarcophagus of marble proves that the custom pre
vailed of erecting tombs along many of the great
roads leading from Rome, as well as on the Appian
Way. We are now at La Storta, eight miles from
Rome, and keeping to the right for about five miles,
we arrive at our destination.
As to defining the Umits of Veu, that appears to
me pure speculation, as also pointing out the spot
where the 300 Fabli were hurled Into the river, and
where the camp of the Romans besieging Veil was
placed. It seems natural to believe, that the citadel
was perched on the height where now stand the
remains of an old castle, because It was a position of
commanding strength. This cliff Is called the Isola
Farnese, being of volcanic formation, and separated,
in a manner, from the rest of Veii by two streams, one
anciently called the Cremera ; the second, forming a
' cascade eighty feet high, by the addition of two smaller
streams. Is described as the Fosso di due Fossi ; it
unites vrith the Cremera below a place called the
Piazza D'Armi, and falls Into the Tiber ultimately ;
these streams define the outline of the old city, I
shaU omit aU irrelevant matter, and come to the tomb
discovered by the Cavaliere Campana, It Is a good
walk of three miles across the country from the
wretched village of Veil, The Etruscans did not
bury their dead within the walls, consequently we
must pass beyond the precincts of the city. Skirting
occasionally the river, our attention was directed to
what the guides state to be part of the old walls, but
which looked very like the tufa rock of the country ;
then, struggling down the steep bank to the margin,
N 2

268 EXCURSION TO VEII.
we looked at a grand arch cut in the rocks, over
which stood a bridge, once a gate leading Into the city.
What a strangely afi'ecting scene does the Campagna
around Rome ever present to the eye of the most
indifi'erent observer ; a prodigious plain interspersed
with ruins, stretching for miles and railes, with scarcely
a tree to interrupt the view, till blocked up by the
distant mountains ! No agriculture, a few bare dwell
ings like stone towers, or a wretched hamlet, and a
wretched people ; a solemn region in which to trace
the reniains of past grandeur. The vast tracts vve
behold are for grazing sheep and cattle till June,
when they are deserted by all their winter inhabitants
except the wretched victims of the malaria. Our
guide informed us that the estate we traversed (some
400 rubbios) belonged to the Queen of Sardinia, and
she let it to the minister (I suppose, clerk) of Torlonia,
the prince, tobacconist, and banker ; he sets It for
grazing, but Is not willing to let patches for small
agriculture ; the Inclosures would impede the cattle.
When so let for tillage, a higher rent is asked, but
the miserable small farmers have no capital for im
provements, so there lies the prodigious waste, and
the dismal population wither.
The guide and the persons we conversed with were
very discontented subjects of the Pope, and com
plained of the suflferings of the viUagers, who. In dirt
and beggary, drag on a miserable existence. There
did not appear to be any want of water in this part
of the Immense Campagna, it clearly therefore might
be cultivated ; but the great proprietors are averse to
agriculture, finding it less troublesome (like the Irish
and Scotch absentee proprietors) and more profitable,
to graze the land In large tracts, I think a revolution

EXCURSION TO VEII. 269
must take place in the mode of holding property In
the Roman states before any Improvement can succeed,
Leopold's reforms must be Introduced, convents de
molished, their lands sold, entails cut ofi', &c.
The day was delicious, but very warm, aind we
were fatigued with our walk across the Carapagna; at
last we reached the approach to the curious Etruscan
tomb, discovered and preserved by that persevering
antiquary, the Cavaliere Campana, What an excel
lent idea it was of the antiquary, instead of stripping
this Etruscan tomb, to preserve it, and most of its
contents, just as it stood, in order to exhibit the mode
of burial of the ancient people of Etruria! The
reader will be interested in a brief account of the
contents of this sepulchre, the fruit of several seasons
of excavation. This was but one araongst a hundred
found in these precincts, but this was the only one
spared alike so wonderfully by the destructive hand
of time and man. Two lions of ancient style were
met with at the entrance of a path cut through the
tufa rock to the torab ; and guarding the sepulchre
were two others, all made of the stone of the country.
The door was gone. The tomb is dirided into two
chambers ; the Inner wall at the arched entrance is
built of irregular masses of solid tufa, without cement.
On each side of the first room are vases containing
the ashes of the dead ; and on stone benches are two
skeletons, one in bronze armour. The rust and
damp have spared only some remnants of the cuirass;
and a helmet, which is perforated, as though by a
lance, which probably caused the death of this
unknown Etruscan warrior. An entire candelabrum,
several looking-glasses, a vase, and a chafing dish,
found in the middle of the room, are left as specimens
of the bronzes. Frescoes in beautiful preservation

270 MRS, HAMILTON GRAY.
adorn the walls of this room. The infancy of art is
shown in the hardness of outline of the animals and
men depicted, and In the excessive length of arms
and bodies, similar to those seen on vases of greatest
antiquity. Amongst the curiosities of this tomb were
vases of every shape, some covered with designs In black
varnish, some with ornaments in reUef, or black on a
yellow ground, little figures In terra cotta, and ani
mals sculptured In amber. The second chamber Is
smaller, the walls are less ornamented. It contains
three sraall cinerary urns and various utensils. This
Etruscan tomb, besides being the nearest to Rome, is
doubly precious as being the only entire one of
ancient Veii.
Let me add. In conclusion, fhe excursion to Veii
is omitted by many travellers, yet It Is one of the most
Interesting to the antiquarian and scholar, of all around
Rorae. Nor should they be deterred even by the
horrible story related by Mrs. Hamilton Gray, in her
excellent book, published so late as 1841.
" Near the Isola Farnese is a most romantic rising ground,
with cliffs and streams around it, presenting to view a quiet-
looking hamlet with an inn. The inhabitants are all shep
herds and rine-dressers, and to us were very civil. Aboufc
fchree weeks after our visit, forty of them were taken up as
leagued banditti, and brought to Rome. The master of the
inn was one of their leaders, and was said at times to have
given his guests human fiesh to eat ; he had been detected by
a young surgeon, who found a, finger in his plate ; and the
landlord who came out to us afc Fosse was captain of the
band." This fact Is a match for that related by Forsythe,
In his account of the landlady of the hotel in the
Apennines.

EXCURSIONS AROUND ROME. 271

CHAPTER XIX.
EXCUKSIONS AEOIJND EOME.
The Appian Way. — Sepulchre of Scipio. — Circus of Eomulus. — Tomb
of CeciUa MeteUa. — Tomb of the Servilii. — Ancient Grandeur of
the Appian and the great Eoads from Eome. — Fountain of Egeria.
Temple of Bacchus. — Temple of the god Eediculus. — Eeturn by
the Porta Maria Maggiore. — A Parting Word on the Baker's Tomb.

" Heroes have trod this spot — ''tis on their dust ye tread."
By the site of the Porta Capena,-and through what
was the Porta Applana, but Is now the Porta Sebas-
tlana, we pass to the celebrated Appian Way. The
ancient monuments still existing there, from their
unquestionable authenticity, are most interesting to
the classical traveUer of any around Rome. At the
distance of half a mile we stop before a narrow gate :
this conducts us through a garden Into the sepulchre,
where the ashes of a race of heroes once reposed in
peace. The custode lights candles, and, preceded by
the guide, you walk straight Into the sepulchre of
Scipio. There is no descent whatever — It Is as if
you entered a tunnel. The chambers are dry ; false
Inscriptions are now written upon the wall ; for the
true inscriptions, with the sarcophagus of Scipio
Barbatus, after reposing here for twenty-two centu
ries, were removed, to grace the museums of the
Vatican. There is therefore nothing interesting now

272 SEPULCHRE OF SCIPIO,
in the sepulchre itself, but an everlasting interest It
must possess frora Its associations and extraordinary
antiquity. This Is confessedly the oldest Roman
tomb with which we are acquainted: and although
In some particulars dissimilar, yet, excavated as It Is
in the tufa rock. It approaches In character the sepul
chres of Etruria. The sarcophagus in the Vatican
is made of coarse peperino, and I think, although of
rough material, one of the most precious of the
treasures In that storehouse of curiosities. There is
a Roman simplicity in the form, ornaments, and in
scriptions of this sarcophagus, and we raight guess
the character of the republican people from the tombs
of their great men. I carried from Rome a little
model of this sarcophagus.* We enter this sepulchre
from the back ; its front faced, it Is supposed, the
Via Latina, and inspired the youth of Rome.
We proceed on our solemn excursion, reminded.
at every step of the vicissitudes of all human things.
At the base of a sharp ascent, three miles from the
city gate, we reach the entrance to the circus of
Romulus, the son of Maxentius. Owing to excava
tions made within twenty years, the whole form,
shape, and arrangements of the Roman circus are
here exposed to view, and very pleasing It Is to trace
them. The figure Is oblong, the length nigh 1,600
feet, by 250 in breadth. The learned reader may
succeed in discovering and distinguishing the Arena,
Spina, Carceres, Meta; and then ascertain. If he can,
whether the large mass of ruin adjoining the circus
be a temple or a tomb. We ought to give to a Roraan
nobleman (Duke of Bracciano), the credit he deserves
* Models of aU the interesting objects in and around Eome are to
he had in the city, and are chiefly made of marble and bronze.

TOMB OF CECILIA METELLA. 273
for having excavated this circus ; may it Inspire the
labours of his brother peers ! Here was found that
obelisk now standing proudly In the Piazza Navona.
We next ascend the roughly-paved hill, leading to
the tomb of Cecilia Metella — a memorial of conjugal
aff'ection and of republican antiquity ; for the Roman
lady, with whose name Byron has made us familiar,
flourished before the Christian era, and was the spouse
of Crassus, who, being resolved that his wife should
never be forgotten, built her a tomb, which has defied,
for 1,900 years, the ravages of time and war. The
form is circular ; Its diameter Is seventy feet ; the
blocks of travertine which composed the mass of the
monuraent, were fitted without ceraent, and this part
of the fabric, which raay be called the outworks,
remains, as also a portion of the beautiful frieze.
The sarcophagus was torn from the chamber, where
it had lain in the reign of Paul III., and raay now be
seen In the courtyard of the Farnese Palace. It is
not possible to behold this " stern round tower of
other days " standing In solitary grandeur amidst
wide-spread ruin, without ruminating on the past,
and catching somewhat of the feeling which inspired
the poet: —
"I know not why, but standing thus by thee.
It seems as if I had thine inmate known.
Thou tomb ! and other days come back on me.
With recollected music, though the tone
Is changed and solemn, like the cloudy groan
Of dying thunder on the distant wind ;
Yet could I seat me by this ivied stone.
Till I had bodied forth the heated mind,
Forms from the floating wreck which ruin leaves behind."
I remember visiting the studio of an artist in Rome,
distinguished for painting animals ; he was occupied
n3

274 TOMB OF THE SERVILII.
In dravring for an EngUsh gentleman of classical taste,
his fox-hounds throwing off" wnder the tomb of Cecilia
Metella in the Campagna. The Roman monument
was oddly contrasted vrith the EngUsh jockey In his
red coat, surrounded with his hounds, all drawn to
the life. Fox-hunting is now a usual recreation of
our active countrymen ; in the Campagna of Rome it
rejoices their manly hearts to bound over the remains
of a great antiquity, and disturb the fox from the
tombs of heroes. Beyond this monument, the Appian
becomes more broken and difficult ; huge stones lie
in the middle of the road ; but It grows In interest
from Its solitariness, and from the views of ruined
aqueducts and tombs. At a distance of two mUes,
we approach the tomb ofthe Servilii. There Is a
representation of this monument in the engraved
sheet of the antiquities of Rorae, which I have recom
mended to the traveller. It is not to be compared
vrith that of Cecilia Metella In size or grandeur, still
the fragments were skilfully put together by Canova,
and the short Inscription judiciously restored, instead
of being carried off to the Vatican, to add to the
overburdened museum: and, therefore, this monu
ment of a noble Roman family Interests the spectator
deeply. We may vary the route homeward, by turning off"
towards the fountain of Egeria. Passing by the
Teraple of Bacchus, formerly called the Temple of
Honour and Virtue, we reach the classic grotto.
There is little to attract the eye, as it is a mere recess
hollowed out of the bank with niches ; all that remains
is one mutilated recumbent figure, not of the Nymph,
but, in all probability, of a water god. The sides of
the grotto are covered with creeping plants ; once

TOMB OF EURYSACES. 275
they were clothed with rich mai-ble. I tasted the
delicious waters of the fountain before quitting the
little glen, which is abandoned'to a soUtude as pro
found as when Numa here held counsel with his
Nymph In the sacred grove. In the woods of Egeria
the honest Umbrlcius stops to vent his complaints
of the luxury of foreign manners, corrupting the
nation which Numa had Instructed in laws and
religion. At a distance of half a mile from the Grotto, and
across the undulating greensward of this part of the
Campagna, stands the well-preserved ruins of a small
temple, dedicated In modern times to the god Redi-
culus. The position of this temple. In a sequestered
place, tended to preserve It ; the outward form is still
complete ; the pilasters remain, and a frieze, with
portions of plUars and other ornaraents. What sur
prises the beholder is the brightness of the work as
yet standing.
I believe we may safely ascribe this shining little
temple to the latter period of the Roman empire.
But before invasions had wasted the Campagna, and
when It was crowded with villas, adorned with stately
tombs, refreshed by copious streams from the aque
ducts, and studded with glittering temples, it must
have presented a splendid appearance to the eye of
the traveUer, as he journeyed across _Its plains to the
eternal city. Over the now deserted fields of the
Campagna we walk, striring In our Imaginations to
restore its fallen grandeur.
We return frora this excursion by the gate of
St. Maria Maggiore ; and, although not unwearied,
yet must we pause again to examine the large and
curious tomb of the Baker Eurysaces, and the repre-

276 canina.
sentation of his busy men kneading the dough, and
stamping the loaves with all the diligence and energy
becoming those engaged In the worthy task of feeding
the heroes of old Rome with wholesome bread. But
as this Interesting sepulchre has been described fully
in our survey of the fifth region of ancient Rome, It
wUl suffice to refer to Canina, and refresh our recol
lections while reposing from the labours of the day.

PROTESTANT BURIAL-GROUND. 277

CHAPTER XX.
EXCUESIOKS AEOUND EOME.
The Protestant Burial-ground, — Pyramid of Caius Cestius. — Porta
San Paolo.^ — The Tiber. — BasiUca of St. Paul. — Eeturn by Porta
Giovanni. — Concluding Eeflections onthe Character of St. Paul.
The Protestant burial-ground Is close to the gate of
St. Paul's, and at the opposite extremity of the city
from that by which we enter Rome from Florence.
It is vrithin the walls, near the deserted Aventine.
This cemetery possesses for us a peculiar and solemn
Interest. No Englishman departs from Rorae without
frequently visiting the last resting-place of so many
of his countryraen. The invalid naturally desires to
see the spot where his mortal body may probably be
deposited, in hope, however, of a joyful resurrection.
It Is laid out with good taste, and a suitable regard
to its object and the character of the people forwhom
It Is destined. There are walks through the ground,
and many of the raonuments are excellently planned.
The melancholy cypress rears its tall form in this
receptacle of the dead. The pyramid of Caius Cestius
Is visible, and In perfect keeping with the scene. The
pyramidal shape of this Roman monument seems
peculiarly fitted for memorials of the dead, and its
form is most enduring. A bright sun shines over the
graves of many of our countrymen, who visited Rome
full of hope and joy.

278 ecclesiastical censorship.
On reading the Inscriptions in the Protestant ceme
tery. It surprises one to perceive that the Christian s
hope Is never referred to, nor the anticipation of
celestial happiness through faith in Christ expressed.
The epitaphs consist of a record of the virtues of the
deceased, or a narrative of the sudden and untimely
fate which has so often overtaken youth and beauty,
while engaged in the pursuit of pleasure. Amongst
other Inscriptions, we read those over the remains of
the gifted John Bell, over Keats, and over the heart
of Shelley; both the latter are affected. I had an
opportunity of discovering why it was that the epitaphs
in the Protestant burying-ground were drawn up In
this unusual fashion.
The lady of a dignitary of the Church of England
died during my residence in Rome : her husband
wrote an inscription intended for her tomb. In which
he naturally introduced words referring to the hope
of the deceased in the resurrection through Christ.
The proposed epitaph as drawn up was, necessarily,
subraitted to the ecclesiastical censor for his approval,
— that official struck out the words alluded to, and
returned the Inscription thus erased and altered.
There was a discussion subsequently on an appeal
before the censor In person, and he decided, with
many courteous observations, that the objectionable
matter must be omitted, on the ground that it con
tradicted the fundaraental doctrine of the Church, in
asserting that an adult out of the pale of that Church
could be saved ; and, moreover, that it violated
another rule of the same infallible tribunal, by quoting
Scripture. " But," said the charitable censor, " you
may ascribe to this lady the possession of all the
virtues In the calendar, provided you do not invade
the doctrine of the Church."

PORTA SAN PAOLO. 279
The Intended epitaph was originally forbidden in
the reign of Pope Gregory. Some months after the
accession of Pius IX., a memorial, couched in most
respectful language, was presented to his holiness,
craving leave to inscribe the lines already given, on
the tombstone of ihe deceased lady. The memorial
was, I presume, referred to the proper authorities,
and a negociation ensued, conducted on the part of
Archdeacon Beresford by the resident chaplain, a
discreet, judicious gentleman, thoroughly acquainted
vrith Rome. He failed, however. In his kind mission.
It was declared to be impossible to comply with so
unreasonable an appUcation, and the obnoxious
epitaph was as rigidly condemned by, or under the
authority of. Pope Pius, as under the rule of Gregory.
Politics may vary — the law of the Church Is un
changeable. The reader wUl remember that we have described the
ancient monument of Caius Cestius in the thirteenth
region of Canina's book. We are now before this
Imitation of Egypt's pyramids. It has stood uninjured
2,000 years, and may stand as many more. At a
little distance from the pyramid we note an excava
tion : this is of the ancient Via Ostiensis. Looking
down to the depth of about eight or ten feet, we see
the hard Roman pavement resembling the Appian,
which has been laid bare for some distance, and which
in other days conducted the adventurous Roman to
Ostia, whence he sailed for war and conquest.
We now pass through the Porta San Paolo, not,
however, without observing the gateway Itself, which
is considered to be one of the most picturesque in
Rome. We are outside the venerable walls of the
eternal city. The pyramid Is here built Into the wall.

280 BASILICA OF ST. PAUL.
and presents a very odd appearance ; although, so far
as It extends, a solid front to the eneraies of Rorae.
Doubtless, when the walls were repaired and enlarged
by Honorius, the necessities of the erapire were too
pressing to admit of respect even for the monuments
of the dead.
We cannot behold the Tiber flowing towards Ostia
vrithout remerabering the opposite accounts given of
its greatness by ancient writers. Pliny says, that the
Tiber was navigable for the largest ships ; and asserts
that the prodigious vessel which carried the obelisk-
of the Vatican from Alexandria to Rome, sailed up
the Tiber as easily as It had sailed down the Nile.
Strabo, on the other hand, assures us that the vast
heaps of mud which were washed down by the cur
rent and deposited at the raouth of the river, rendered
it necessary for large ships to unload a part of their
cargo before they could arrive at the city. Gibbon
endeavours to reconcile these opposite accounts.
Unquestionably the obelisk of the Vatican could not
now be got up the Tiber.
We drive towards the Basilica of St. Paul. The
road is the ugliest out of Rome, the country flat,
rather marshy, proverbially unwholesome, scourged
by the pestilential malaria, and in summer wholly
deserted of Inhabitants, We meet Rome's greatest
novelty — the omnibus, which daily conveys the curious
citizen to the Basilica, to behold the marvellous waste
of money there exhibited. Most readers are aware,
that the old Basilica of St. Paul was nearly consumed
by flre some twenty years ago. There can be" no
doubt that this was one of tbe most ancient Christian
churches In the world ; and, according to the descrip
tion given of it, presented a strange aspect with Its

BASILICA OF ST. PAUL. 281
120 antique pillars, mosaic saints of the middle ages,
costly bronze gates, and various curiosities heaped
together. The thick columns of the side aisle, a wide
space, escaped the conflagration. Pope Gregory
began the reconstruction of this Basilica on a very
expensive plan, coUecting subscriptions from the
Roman CathoUc countries and princes of the Christian
world. During the first winter I spent In Rome, the
drive of four miles to St. Paul's was the favourite
excursion of Gregory, and the progress of the build
ing afiforded him unbounded delight, Pius IX, fol
lowed up the work only because It had been begun
by his predecessors ; and towards the end of my
second year's residence in Italy, the transept, and
high altar, and what I may call the church, were
finished, and the nave, where the old pillar still stood,
was covered In with a new roof.
The whole Interior of the church Is coated with
marbles, gildings, mosaics, pictures ; while expensive
side chapels, loaded with omaments, are opened. All
this profusion of expense is Incurred In one of the
poorest kingdoms in Europe, and while reproductive
employment was so much to be desired. But what
fiUs the beholder with surprise. Is, the conriction of
Its inutility : here Is a vast Basilica, reconstructed In
a place where there are no inhabitants, and never can
be ; where the horrid malaria for several months of
the year afflicts the whole district, and puts even the
sturdy monks to flight — a more preposterous project
even for a pope could scarce be Imagined, yet the
Roman people did not seem to be alive to the glaring
absurdity of It, These good people have long been
accustomed to see all the exertions and labours of
their popes begin and end In the construction of a

282 BASILICA OF ST. PAUL.
church, the building of which. In addition to 300
already existing, raust atone for a multitude of poli
tical evils.
There were lying near St. Paul's several pillars of
the rarest description of alabaster, presented by the
Pacha of Egypt to the Pope, to adorn the new Basi
lica. The public are admitted, by order from the
governor, to behold these costly colurans, to which
certainly there Is nothing simUar In Rome, nor per
haps In Europe. The gifts of the infidel will be
freely used In decorating the restored temple of
Christian worship.
The tradition of the church Is, that St. Paul was
buried under the great altar of the old BasiUca, as It
also Is the tradition that the mighty apostle was be
headed on the spot now marked by the site of the
Church of San Paolo alie tre Fontane. To this
church, two miles from the Basilica, let us now pro
ceed if we can. The first time I attempted this
undertaking, I was compelled to return; the road
was so broken up as to be Impassable for a carriage.
In the succeeding spring, I reached the scene of the
alleged martyrdom of St. Paul. There are here no
less than three churches close together, for no earthly
purpose consistent with reason. We enter first the
principal edifice ; the sacristan pointed out with
perfect gravity the three fountains, whence the
church has Its name, which severaUy sprung Into ex
istence at the respective moments when the head of
the apostle thrice rebounded from the earth after It
had been severed from his body. In the church of
San Vincenzo ed Anastasio we have the twelve
apostles ranged In order. In frescoes. In the nave ;
while the third church, Santa Maria Scala Cceli, is

CONCLUDING REFLECTIONS. 283
built over the graves of the ten thousand Christian
martyrs, who were all, says tradition, beheaded by
the wicked Emperor Diocletian In a single day, after
they had been employed In the servile labour of
erecting the Immense baths, still called by the perse
cutor's name. We may vary our returning route by
driring under the walls of old Rome to the Porta
San Giovanni — an excursion ever awakening recol
lections of the past, and Its unfading glories. Let us
cast a parting glance at the remains of the Anfiteatro
Castrense, built into the walls In a similar way to the
pyramid of Cestius, and entering the city by the
Porta San Giovanni, slowly pass the Lateran, guarded
by its gigantic statues of the apostles ; and, regretting
that our deUghtful labours have finished, and that our
survey of Rome and of the Campagna is completed,
reach home, our feelings solemnized by the reflection
of the brevity of human life, compared with the age
of the old things we have been contemplating. Rome
must possess an eternal Interest ; here possibly Peter
preached, Paul certainly reasoned and taught ; here,
probably, both were rictims in the massacre of Nero ;
and here, undoubtedly, a precious deposit of truth
was made.
The Ufe of St. Paul furnishes one of the strongest
evidences of the truth of Christianity; he was no
heated enthusiast, but a man of sound judgment,
boundless benevolence, and gifted with an overwhelm
ing eloquence. He pursued his great purpose with zeal
and earnestness, endured every hardship and Insult,
danger and suflfering. Nor was he to be diverted
from the prosecution of his glorious task by the
prospect of death. We must revere the spot conse
crated by his triumphant labours; we must desire

284 CONCLUDING REFLECTIONS.
the rays of apostoUc truth to shine upon, and emanate
from It ; we must hope that his divine teaching may
in Rome prevail In all the fulness of its power, and
that the religion of Rome may becorae, as nearly as
It Is possible, consistent with the lessons Paul has
taught. In this aspiration, all good Catholics of the
universal Church may heartily unite ; and there can
be no raode more likely to accomplish this desirable
object, than that of imparting to all a knowledge of
the sublirae truths he has taught, and In his own
Iraperlshable words.

EXCURSIONS IN SPRING. 285

CHAPTER XXI.
EXCUESIONS IN SPEING.
The Campagna of Eome. — Frascati, and its Villas. — Tusculum. —
Classic Eecolleotions. — Lake Eegillus. — Marino. — Alba Longa. —
Castel Gandolfo. — Lake of Nemi. — Temple of Diana. — Genzano. —
Aricia. — Alban Lake, by sunset — Italian Fair at Grotto Ferrata.
Description of a Capaima in the Campagna. Wages and Mode of
Existence of the Herdsman. — A Eoman Farm on a grand Scale,
described by De Tournon. — Eeflections.

" Nee ut supemi villa candens TusouU,
Circsea tangat moenia."
The Campagna of Rome possesses a peculiar Interest,
both physIcaUy, and in virtue of Its varied associations.
Roads branch out from the capital In every direction.
Inviting the tourist and scholar to explore scenes
either of natural beauty or of classic association.
There Is a map of the Campagna, and a topographical
and geological account of its antiquities and present
condition, drawn up In French by Monsieur Tickler.
These enable the traveller to coraprehend, in sorae
measure, what the Campagna of Rome once was.
The melancholy contrast between its ancient glory
and present desolation. Impresses every reflecting
mind vrith awe. We cannot, however, stop to moralize.

286 THE CAMPAGNA OF BOME.
this bright morning; the sun has risen brightly in
the heavens, and we must hasten on our joyous ex
cursion of three days, with pleasant friends, and in
cheerful spirits. Although the Campagna is gloomy,
some twelve miles distant, fresh gardens, shady groves,
and green woods, invite us to breathe pure air, and
to be reminded of happy England. Nature, ever
bountiful. If she has surrounded Rome vrith a parched,
and In sumraer a sterile plain, has placed at Its out
skirts wooded heights and mountains, to cool and
invigorate the Roman citizen, and Inspire him, if
possible, with poetical or classic recollections. For
myself, I should surmise that Frascati, just over
hanging the Campagna, Is too close to the malaria
district for perfect security In the hot season. We
have passed out of the Porta San Giovanni, and soon
catch a view of the long line of arches of the Claudian
and Marcian aqueducts, stretching over the Campagna,
passing at a distance of three miles from Rome on
our left, the huge mound, perversely called the Monte
del Grano. It was raised as the sepulchre of some
celebrated person, although not the Emperor Alex
ander Severus, as asserted. I have been in the deep
excavation made in the centre, whence was extracted
that beautiful white marble sarcophagus, which stands
In the " Hall of the Sarcophagus," in the capitol,
adomed vrith bas reliefs, representing the history of
Achilles ; and the Londoner may be surprised to hear
that in this sarcophagus was found the Portland Vase,
now so highly prized in the British Museum. The
chamber In which this splendid monument was burled
has nothing remarkable to arrest attention.
We have reached the eminences clad with olives,
leading to Frascati, and behold Its shining rillas em-

ITALIAN VILLAS. 287
bosomed amongst cypresses and ilex, and an occasional
pine ; further up the hill the noble chestnut trees
abound. To enjoy Frascati we must see It frequentiy.
On the first visit, the stranger Is coerced to do the
viUas ; that is, to go the rounds in succession, under
charge of a cicerone, who plagues you by his parti
cularity. One villa Is so Uke another, that the
examination of the Interior of the rilla Borghese,
caUed Aldobrandini, would suffice for all the rest.
The grounds, and terraces, and waterworks belonging
to this princely seat deserve our notice ; Its position
also Is commanding. From the lofty terrace facing
the Campagna, a view can be had of Rome Itself.
Nor must we forget the waterworks attached to the
vlUa, so pleasantly portrayed by Forsythe.
" The whole court seems alive at the tuming of a cock.
Water attacks you on every side : it is squirted on your
face from invisible holes : it darts up in a constellafcion of
jets (Teau : it returns in misty showers, which present
against the sun a beautiful iris."
They are soraewhat mitigated at present. I cannot
admire an Italian villa with its unnatural and artificial
ornaments. The parks and grounds of an EngUsh
house are Incomparably superior. The Roman noble
man carries as much of Rome as he can with him Into
the country, and has no taste for the healthy pleasures
of country life, nor would he accept a lesson on farming
from old Cato himself.
Escaping from the villas, the rigorous Englishman
on foot, ladies and invalids on donkeys, prepare to
ascend the heights, to see the convent of the Camal-
dollnes, and the ancient Tusculum. Our path lies
partly through shady woods, and the ascent is not
severe. We must remember, in approaching the site

288 CATO'S TUSCULUM.
of the ancient Tusculum, that It was the birth-place
of Cato, and the scene of the Tusculum Questions of
Cicero, considered amongst the best of his speculative
writings. An hour's ride brings us to the ruins. We
can still see parts of the ancient, massive walls, citadel,
and gates ; a small theatre, of which the seats are
nearly perfect, and the remains of an amphitheatre ;
also a portion of the old Roman pavement has been
uncovered. For these excavations we are chiefly in
debted to the French. The view from this spot was
magnificent, while the air we Inhaled was perfumed
with the sweet fragrance shed by numberless wild
plants and fiowers. My thoughts ran on Cicero. He
retired to this delightful spot, when wearied by fac
tions and despairing of freedom, to enjoy the society
of his inteUectual friends, to philosophize, and by the
composition of his Tusculum Questions (had he left
no other memorial of his genius), to establish his
Iraraortal renown.
We are conducted over ruins said to have belonged
to the villa of Cicero. There is no reasonable ground
to doubt that the residence of the philosopher was In
this locaUty : and certainly there is a pleasure inde
scribable In visiting places dwelt In by the great and
good of the earth. Everything In and around Frascati
vanishes into insignificance when corapared vrith the
interest belonging to the abode of Tully.
The ride to the convent of the Camaldolines Is
most agreeable : the priestly residence is as usual in
a delightful situation; here, sleepy old monks In
white move slowly about, show their convent to raen
only, and their church to the ladies. They have con
secrated the chamber In which Pius IX. slept on the
occasion of his recent visit. To vary the route, we

ALBA LONGA. 289
may return by the Villa Ruffinella, now deserted, but
once Inhabited by Lucien Buonaparte. Here, some
twenty-five years ago, the brigands paid a visit to the
family of the Emperor, as they were sitting down to
dinner, and ran away with the secretary Instead of
the Prince, keeping their captive In the mountains
till a round ransom was paid for his liberation. No
stirring adventures of this description now enliven
the tranquiUity of Frascati. A vulgar poUce at
present rules, and " the age of chivalry Is gone."
Connected vrith the country we are now traversing.
It Is Interesting to know that the enlightened Cardinal
Gonsalri died In the convent of St, Basilio, or rather
In the fine palace attached to it, and it Is said, too —
suddenly. In Frascati died, gently, the last pretender
of the house of Stuart: Gonsalvl has far greater
claims on our respect. We next pass near Marino, a
glen where antiquaries say the Latin tribes met ; and
they did wisely to assemble on national affairs In the
open air, and In a cool romantic glen, without seats
for the merabers — an arrangement which would expe
dite business In our own parliament vastly. Whether
Livy drew upon his imagination or his memory for
his history, matters Uttle for those who eschew
Niebuhr, and read In faith ; and so let the traveller
conjure up all that Livy narrates to have happened
In this region. Nor would it be just to omit a tribute
of respect to our countryman. Sir WUliam Gell, for
searching out for us the true site of Alba Longa ;
the traveller will consult his book to elucidate the
Campagna and its topography. In this deUghtful
district we have thick woods to give us shade, with
bright meadows and laughing women to cheer us ;
and we thus approach Castel Gandolfo, perched on a
VOL. HI. o

290 ALBA LONGA.
cliff where popes take refuge from an autumnal sun,
and the horrors of the malaria. A very beautiful
road, shaded by Ilexes, conducts to Albano, where we
now are ; but the day Is not so far spent that we cannot
accomplish something further : so, refreshing ourselves
withsomemore substantial fare than Horace's thrushes,
we drive to the lake of Nerai. This lovely lake, like
that of Albano, occupies the crater of a long extinct
volcano. " Although only four or five miles in circumference, it
possesses a variety and richness of beauty scarcely to be
surpassed, and which is only to be appreciated by rambling
up and down its steep banks, and round its margin, thickly
planted wifch trees, every one of which would repay a
painter's study, Wifch fchafc strange yefc beautiful apfcitude
which is so distinguishing a characteristic of the heathen
mythology, fchis calm and pure retreat was appropriated fco
the chaste Diana and her nymphs ; and so calm, so pure,
so lovely is it, as it sleeps in the sunshine, and draws fco its
embrace the deep blue sky, that it would seem impossible
for aught not chaste and good to live within its magical
domain,"* The vlUage of Nemi, picturesquely placed on the
margin of the lake, is exactly opposite Genzano.
There is here a fine old feudal castle with a round
tower, which, with the town and a large tract of the
surrounding country, belongs to Prince RospigUosi,
having formerly been possessed by the noble famiUes
of Colonna and the Cenci. The view from these
heights Is varied and interesting beyond description,
and the surrounding country has been made known
* This poetical but faithful description of the Lake of Nemi, I
take from the t«xt iUustrating the Sketches «f Central Italy, by my
friend Mr. Henry Cook.

ITALIAN FAIR. 291
to US by Virgil's verse. We now return by the pretty
little village of Genzano, and resume our drive towards
Aricia. A more beautiful scene than this town pre
sents, when under the Influence of an ItaUan sunset,
cannot be conceived ; the wooded hill upon which it
stands presenting every Imaginable variety of tone
and shade, and the cathedral and towers standing
out in brilliant relief against a sky glowing with
golden hues. But we must hasten homeward, that we
may linger on the borders of Lake Albano, ere
" The god of gladness sheds his parting smile."
Few spots are more lovely than the Alban Lake
and its vicinity. Its circular basin lies buried, among
steep crags covered with verdure ; these, with moun
tains and forests, the olive, and here and there the
soleran, stately cypress, combine to form a fascinating
scene. The sun had but just sunk
" In one unclouded blaze of Uving light."
It was one of those deUcious evenings in the clime of
Italy, such as language or even painting can but feebly
picture ; and we lingered in the open air until the soft
mist, floating like a silver veil over the landscape,
warned us that night was fast approaching.
Having exhausted the neighbourhood of Albano in
this a fourth visit, we were terapted to . retum to
Rome by Grotto Ferrata, in order to see an Italian
fair which was to be holden there. It was represented
to rae that the costume of the peasants on such an
occasion would be picturesque, and the amusements
characteristic of the national manners. The dress of
the Albanian peasant is peculiar; the scarlet cloth
boddice, trimmed with rich gold lace, suits well the
o 2

292 ITALIAN HERDSMEN.
pale complexion of the dark-eyed women ; the costume
of the men is not less becoming to their manly form
and fine aquiUne features. A group of these, seated
at a long table under a tent, their eyes rivetted on
one who sang sorae evidently favourite national air,
struck me as a scene in which Teniers would have
revelled. I must confess, however, I was disappointed
with this fair; perhaps It may have been from my
inability to enjoy It : for the crowd, dust, and parching
heat without shade, became so disagreeable, that
I was glad to take refuge In the convent church,
where our old monk stood guard over the frescoes,
and received toll from the curious before he admitted
them to behold his treasures.
The direct road frora Grotto Ferrata to Rome is
rough and bad. When within a few miles of the
capital, our notice was attracted by one of those
strange erections In the wide Campagna, which re
semble In the distance a large haycock, and form the
habitation of the herdsmen, who during the winter
months tend the cattle spread over the Campagna. I
had never been inside one of these curious looking
conical dwellings, with which at considerable intervals
the vast plain is studded. Having walked half a mU©
across the country towards the aqueduct which sup
pUes the Acqua Felice, we reached the Capanna,
which is the name of these huts. It was very large,
the doors were gone, so there was no difficulty In
gaining admission. We found the occupants had
removed, with the exception of one herdsman, a tall
handsome Italian with dark expressive eyes, who re
ceived us with the courtesy of a gentleman.
This habitation was run up to a conical top with
strong ribs of timber firmly flxed In the ground, the

A ROMAN FARM. 293
whole admirably thatched with thick Indian corn
straw. Impervious to wind or rain. There were two
entrances opposite each other ; no window or chiraney ;
in the centre stood a brazier, where the wood or char
coal fire might be kindled. The sleeping places re
sembled berths In a ship, and ran round the interior
in tiers ; these were likewise composed of the Indian
corn straw. Thus simply were five-and-twenty of
the herdsmen, whom we see driving the cattle over
the Campagna, accommodated In this cheerless winter
abode. It Is pulled down before the hot months set
In, when animated nature deserts the pestilential
wilderness. The man whom we met Informed us of
their mode of life In this wigwamj near the walls of
Rome ; the herdsmen relieve each other In their
severe duties, and he received one paui (five pence) per
day as wages ; his food was bread and herbs ; and
when asked what was his drink, he pointed to the
aqueduct, and said with a graceful incUnation, Acqua
felice. I suppose this to be the lowest rate of wages paid
to labourers near any of the great capitals in Europe ;
less than a half of what is set down as the rate in the
books on the statistics of the Papal States.
But the reader must not conclude that there Is no
skilful or extensive farming throughout the Papal
states. If we turn to the masterly work so often
quoted by Napoleon's prefect, we find a very graphic
description given of a Roman farm conducted on a
grand scale. The Count Introduces us to the Interior
of the colossal farm of Campo-Morto.
The farm consists of 4,309* rubbj, 1,000 of which
is arable land, 1,100 permanent pasture or meadows,
* 17,000 acres.

294 A ROMAN FARM.
and 2,200 forest. The arable land is divided into
four lots, which are subject each to a diflferent rotation
of crops and fallows, according to the nature of the
soil. One wheat crop Is succeeded by two or three
years' faUow ; or the wheat crop is followed by oats
and beans; or, lastly, after the oat harvest in the
second year, the ground is sown with Indian corn or
beans, after which it is left fallow for one year, and
then sown with wheat again. The wheat crop re
turns in general nine for one, the other grains and
beans about fifteen. The cultivation of the farm
requires 65 ploughs and 320 oxen ; 250 bullocks are
kept fattening for the market, besides about 800 cows
and calves, and about 100 buffaloes. One hundred
horses are required for the cattle-drivers and servants
of the farm, who are always mounted, as well as for
the carts, &c. ; and 250 mares and colts, to keep up
that number. Two tbousand sheep graze on the
farm. The agents and servants permanently employed
amount to 180. About 400 labourers are engaged
from October to June, and about 800 in harvest time-
The former are paid from one franc and a half to two
francs a-day ; the latter in general about two francs.
They come chiefly from the mountains of the Abruzzi
and Sabina. The rent paid to the chapter of St.
Peter's, who are the proprietors, Is 120,000 francs ; the
whole produce of the farm Is valued at 355,000 francs.-
But the expenses attending this great establishment
swallow up so much of this sum, that the real proflts
of the farmer consist In his commercial and banking
speculations, which he carries on by means of the
produce of his farm.
Notvrithstanding the admiration of the Count de
Tournon for the management of this establishment, it

REFLECTIONS. 295
may be questioned if farms of sixteen thousand acres
can be beneficial to the country. A rare example of
skilful arrangement and cultivation may be raet with,
but It cannot be for the permanent good of the com
munity to vest such large tracts in one man. Without
boasting of prophetic powers, my conviction Is, that
the whole system of locking up tracts of land In cor
porations, or convents, or in individuals, who grant nine
years' leases only, will be broken up, the law changed,
priests will be relieved of the Irksome labours of
farming or managing vast estates, and, through a great
focial revolution, the condition of the people will be
permanently Improved and raised.*
* I have seen it announced that it has been lately proposed in
Eome, to seU a large portion of the Church lands as heretofore in
Mortmain, in order to reUeve the pecuniary necessities of the state.
That some such measure will be adopted, seems inevitable.

298 EXCURSION TO TIVOLL

CHAPTER XXII.
Excursion by Hadrian's Villa to Tivoli, and thence to the Sabine
Farm of Horace. — Objects of most interest on this route described.
The Etruscan Tombs of Tarquinii.

" Beatus ille, qui procul negotiis,
Ut prisca gens mortalium,
Patema rura bobus exercet suis,
Solutus omni foenere." Horace, Epod ii. 1.
The Porta San Lorenzo, anciently Porta Tiburtina,
through which we issue this day into the Campagna,
Is remote from the Inhabited quarters of the city, and
shows the wide space enclosed within the walls of
Rome, The venerable basilica of San Lorenzo, some
three miles from the capital, founded In the fifth
century. Invites a visit. The portico is adorned with
six Ionic columns, four of which are twisted, and It
contains some curious old paintings. The interior
presents a nave, separated from the side aisles by
twenty-two Ionic columns of Egyptian granite. The
tribune is elevated above the nave, and distinguished
by ten splendid fluted columns of Pavonazetta
marble, burled nearly to the top of their shafts below
the pavement of the church. The capitals, which
are, with two exceptions, of the Corinthian order,
are beautifully carved. These support another range
of smaller columns, two of which are of green por-

Hadrian's villa. 297
phyry, surmounted by a gallery. Two very ancient
marble pulpits adorn this basilica. Crossing the
Anio, we arrive at the singular lake called Lago di
Tartarl, so named from the tartareous deposits with
which It has the property of covering vegetable
matter which becomes petrified. This process of
petrifaction produces travertine, the common stone
of the country. The sulphureous canal, named
Flumen Albulae, next detained us, but not long, for
the smell of sulphur here would knock down a horse.
Geologists and chemists have written volumes on the
natural phenomena of this district. We must again
cross the Anio by the old bridge of Lucano, and stop
before the weU-preserved monument of the Plautii,
which resembles In shape and size the tomb of
Cecilia MeteUa. We here turned oflf to Hadrian's
Villa ; some cypress trees mark the site.
Our riew of Tivoli, situated beautifully on the
mountain, was now very attractive. Having driven
into the prodigious enclosure of this extraordinary
vlUa, which, covering an extent of three miles, rather
resembled a ruined city, including as It did In one
spot Imitations of all that the restless emperor had
seen most striking in his travels, we gaze around In
wonder on these Imposing ruins ; — theatres, baths,
temples, barracks, porticoes, &c, were spread over
the vast space, the statues and rare works of art
found amongst the remains of which, have furnished
whole museums. Our cicerone Informed us, that no
excavations of value had taken place for many years.
In our walk, we encountered a long and ugly snake ;
our guide Immediately killed it with stones, telUng
us its bite was deadly.
The ascent to Tivoli is very steep, but shaded with
o3

298 tivOli.
the olive and the ilex. We perceive, in approaching
the town, a marked diflference between the Tibur of
the ancients, and Frascati of the modems. The
nuraerous white villas which adorn the modem Fras
cati are wanting at Tivoli, which, however, possesses
higher claims, from Its natural beauty of scenery and
situation, and its classical associations. Perhaps one
reason why the Romans do not now resort to TivoU
for a summer residence, may be, that Its climate is
considered capricious, even unwholesome. We have
here ruined villas, ancient temples, and newly-made
waterfalls. If, on gaining the summit, we turn round
towards Rome at a sudden opening, what an expan
sive, magnificent view is before our eyes^the vast
plain of Latium, with Rome for Its centre, and the
sea for Its horizon ! Thus Tivoli aflfords the delights
of a fresh and srailing valley, of wooded heights, and
of a boundless prospect. The numerous cascades
forraed by the Anio constitute, however, the charm
of this celebrated district.
The unclassic visitor will exult In the superior ac
commodation of La Regina ; but whosoever Is Inspired
with a passion for antiquity, will estabUsh himself In
La Sibilla, an hotel which possesses In its narrow
yard such a circular teraple as is scarcely equalled for
gracefulness and beauty In the peninsula. Moreover,
it is an undoubted memorial of the Augustan age :
surely therefore the Sibyl must attract us by her
spell. We are now in the Tibur of the ancients,
and the natural advantages of Its position, inacces
sible from three sides, explain how from the most
remote periods this has been the seat of a famous
city. After Its Incorporation with Rome, Tibur be
came the favourite retreat of the patricians, who were

TEMPLE OF VESTA, 299
charmed by the freshness of Its waters and the beauty
of Its prospects. Brutus, Cassius, Augustus, Mecae
nas, there built their villas, while Horace preferred
It to the rest of the world.
We step out at once to the temple sometimes
called Vesta; again, that of the Tiburtine Sibyl. Its
shape resembles Vesta's shrine In Rome, being cir
cular. It is surrounded by a portico, formerly con
sisting of eighteen Corinthian columns, of stuccoed
travertine, ten only of which are now standing : the
foUage of the capitals Is of the olive, and the entabla
ture Is sculptured with festoons of flowers and heads
of oxen. We have seated ourselves under the colon
nade of this classical temple, which, percljed upon an
airy clifi" overhanging, as It were, a vast abyss, com
mands a view of the whole valley of the Anio, and of
the profound gulf below. I question if, in our
rambles round the hill, we can gain a more varied,
romantic, or commanding prospect. Curiously enough,
were we to read the books describing the cascades of
Tivoli, written twenty-flve years since, we should be
entirely misled ; the fact being, that a prodigious
wall built by Sixtus V., over which the great volume
of water feU into the gulf called the Grotto of
Neptune, forming one of the grandest scenes in
Europe, was carried away by the Inundation of 1826;
and the flood having also undermined the base of the
rock on which the temple of Vesta stands, in order,
amongst other good reasons, to preserve this precious
relic, It was found necessary to divert the course of
the river ; and the new Falls were then formed, by
cutting a tunnel through Monte Catello, exactly op
posite the temple. The river here rushes down into
the valley to the depth of nearly eighty feet, in one

300 CLASSIC VILLAS.
mighty cataract. I must say. In my judgment, no
thing can be more preposterous than the comparison
so often made between the Falls of Terni and the
cascade constructed at Tivoli. The former are Im^
measurably superior.
We must. now quit our lofty and classical position,
and make the circuit of the hiU ; this will occupy four
hours, and a delightful excursion It Is, Mounted on
donkeys, we set forward, and crossing the bridge over
the Anio, our path lay along Its banks, and by the
base of a steep hill crowned with olives. At every
step a new and beautiful picture presented Itself to
our view. Massive rocks, and headlong torrents —
wooded mountains, and verdant valleys — the rushing
river, •' And the green steeps, whence Anio leaps.
In floods of snow-white foam." f
But It is not the natural beauties only which ren
der this charming excursion so attractive. The site
of the villa of the luxurious Mecaenas Is pointed
out. What a noble prospect. did this villa command I
On one side, overlooking the vride plains of the. Cam
pagna, (no desert then,) Rome in the distance, with
its horizon of purple mountains. Here, we may sup
pose, the accotnplished minister of Augustus spent
many an Attic evening with Horace, Varro, and
Virgil, and the learned and witty men of that polite
and famous age.
There Is another villa, more modern, called the
Villa d'Este, built in 1549 by Cardinal d'Este; It is
now deserted and falling into ruin. However, It must
be visited, because there Is a splendid view from a
terrace which overlooks the wide Campagna, and the

CLASSIC VILLAS. 301
fascinating scenery all around. The gardens are laid
out with the usual formality and perverted taste of
the Italians in this respect — clipped hedges, shaped-
out trees, and water converted Into all manner of
devices ; but the noble cypress and stately pines that
In this. spot abound, compensate, with Its situation,
for all other defects.
Unlike the hasty tourists who fly back to Rome,
we compose ourselves for the night under the shade
of the Sibyl's protection. Seated at glorious sunset
under the portico of the graceful teraple, my fellow-
traveller,* Imbued thoroughly with the spirit of the
classics, quot-ed feUcitously from the poet whose verses
are Imperishably associated with the scenes before us.
The associations connected with the place crowded
iuto our minds, "and the past predominated over the
present." The founders of a mighty empire here
reposed ; the conquerors of the world here sought
refuge from the torments of ambition ; the patriots
and poets of a faraous people here strengthened their
virtues and fed their genius. We can feel with
Horace, Tibur would afford a most suitable retire
ment for the scholar and the poet.
" May Tibur to my latest hours
Aff'ord a kind and calm retreat ;
Tibur, beneath whose lofty towers
The Grecians fixed their blissful seat ;
There may my labours end, my wandering cease.
There all my toils of warfare rest in peace,"
Having arranged, the night previously, that our
guide and the ponies should leave Tivoli at five
o'clock in the raorning, (a precaution necessary, as
* Eev. C. Girdlestone, joint Editor with the Eev. W. Osborne, of a
late edition of Horace.

302 CLAUDIAN AQUEDUCT.
there are neither to be had at the cross-road, or
rather bridle-path, leading to the Sabine Farm,) we
left at a more seasonable hour by the carriage-road
to Subiaco, Every Inch we travelled convinced me
of the good sense of Horace. Were I condemned to
spend a summer in the vicinity of Rome, the Sabine
hills would be my resort.
The drive along the banks of the Anio, up the
country, was perfectly delightful ; fresh wholesome
air to breathe, green hlUs, cultivated valleys, moun
tains, and a dashing river, to behold and admire. No
villas, or castles, or gentlemen's seats ; but the noble
ruins of a portion of the Claudian Aqueduct were in
our sight, stretching over the country, and shovring us,
from their position, what vast tunnels the old Romans
must have made. Our turning point from the road
was nearly opposite a convent, as usual in the choicest
situation, on a lofty eminence over the river. A few
cypresses at the edge of the precipice gave a mournful
aspect to the building, where some twenty-five monks
vegetate through their monotonous existence. This
Is called the convent of St. Cosimato, and is a little
beyond the elevated village of Vicovaro. Here we
turned to the left, by a bridle-path most difficult —
broken like the stony channel of a river. One of
our party, overcome by the heat, soon fell back to
sketch; we pushed on under a burning sun, through
the valley of Astrica, formerly Astica, along which
flows the Digentia, called now La Licenza. We
passed high on our right Mandela anciently, now
Cantalupo in Bardella. There was a profound silence
around ; we scarcely met a Uving being. If Horace
really travelled this road, what must not his bob-
tailed mule have suflfered ! We passed a spot where

Horace's villa, 303
had been erected a temple of Vacuma ; and, at last,
having toiled on three miles, got a view of Licenza ;
then we turned up a narrow path and came to a fleld
where stood, they say, the villa of the poet ; a frag
ment of mosaic pavement, a few broken pillars, and
the name of the valley and mountain behind, called
Lucretills, with Horace's account, furnish proof of
the locality. Referring to the description of his
Sabine farm by the poet, as we stood on the ground,
It seemed very applicable. There can be no doubt
there Is here a sequestered vale, cool and healthy
compared with Rome.
" Hie in redueta vaile, Caniculse
Vitabis sestus."
The proprietor now calls the mountain behind the
poet's dweUIng, LucretUis.
A more agreeable retreat in the malaria season
there could not be found ; nor should I omit the
fountain of Bandusia, a narae to be forgotten only
vrith the poetry of Horace. At no great distance up
the mountain, this fountain is pointed out. Hobhouse
has observed, that the only spot of ploughed land In
the whole valley Is on the knoll where this Bandusia
rises, and aptly applies the words of the ode :
" Tu friguB amabile
Fessis vomere tauris
Praebes, et pecori vago."
I was entertained by the remark of the present
occupant of the Sabine farm — he wondered what
brought the Inglesi, his chief visitors, to see this
place. When It was explained to hira that we were
well flogged at school, falling to learn our boyish
lessons from the works of this same Horace — and that
so, when we grew to be men, we wished to visit the

304 Horace's villa.
habitation of him who had been the cause of our
early suflferings, — he laughed heartily, and said he
understood that perfectly. On inquiring who was
the proprietor of the estate, we were Informed Prince
Borghese, whose classical spirit, it seems, has never
induced hira to visit the spot consecrated as the abode
of genius. Certainly the Prince, by preserving the
road in Its horrible condition, "tests severely the en
thusiasm of the stranger who might desire to trace
out the retreat of the most delightful, racy, and in
structive of our Latin poets.*
The zealous traveller must not quit Italy without a
visit to the modem Cometo (Queen of the Maremma),
in order to examine perhaps the most ancient things
on earth — the tombs of Etruscan Tarquinii, Fifty
miles will not be traversed by the mere pleasure-
seeking tourist, and indeed the drawings in Rorae of
these curious raonuraents would satisfy the ephemeral
Inquisitiveness of such a person ; but the visit will be
made by him " who travels with some knowledge of
the past, and possesses sufficient Iraagination to use
that knowledge In the reproduction of beautiful and
* I subjoin the conclusion of the well-drawn life of Horace, pre
fixed to the edition of his works aUuded to at p. 301, — " But what
soever he may have been as a man, as a writer he expresses maxims
of sound good sense, and sentiments of no common moral elevation,
with an emphasis and elegance peculiar to himself. The vigour of
his thoughts, the terseness of his language, and his familiar
acquaintance with human nature, have rendered him the most gene
rally popular, the most readily remembered, and probably the most
largely-quoted, of all authors, ancient or modern. In his three chief
styles of composition as a lyric poet, he has few superiors ; as a poetical
critic, none; and perhaps no equal as a writer of satires and epistles,
in which narrative and raillery, the serious aud the playful, are
happily blended in a style half didactic, half colloquial. In each of
these three departments his genius was decidedly original ; in the
combination of the three, unique.

ETRUSCAN TOMBS, 305
mighty things long departed and forgotten."* Time
and expense may be economized by reserving this
visit to the site of Tarquinii till returning home by
CIrita Vecchia : resting In the latter place, the ex
cursion may thence be made with ease and advantage,
Corneto Is about twelve miles distant from Civita
Vecchia. The road lies along the coast, and, thanks
to the convicts, is a very good one ; on one side there
is an expansive view of the Mediterranean ; on the
other, of the country, which Is much better cultivated
and more pleasingly diversified than most parts of the
Campagna. The hills in our prospect are filled with
vrild boar, the flesh of which Is much relished by the
epicure. We foimd Corneto perched upon a high
hill, as is always the case with Etruscan towns.
Hastening to satisfy our curiosity, we were obliged
to be content with the son of the real cicerone, as
the chief guide was in attendance upon axardinal.
So, with his keys, and a tin case of lights, our young
cicerone mounted the coach-box, and we proceeded
to discover, at three miles' distance, the tombs of as
extraordinary a people as ever appeared in the world.
It seems a difficult business to find out the entrance
to these strange receptacles of the dead. A vast
space of ground, hilly, stony, and now covered with
a low coarse brushwood, and separated by a deep and
wide valley from the ancient city of Tarquinii (of
which only some foundation-walls and the position of
six gates exist), was used as their NecropoUs by the
Etruscans. Here they scooped out of the rock these
tombs, which have endured 3,000 years with slight
Injury. Excavations have been made from time to
time, and in recent years 2,000 tombs have been
* Mrs, Hamilton's Gfray's book, p. 215,

306 ETRUSCAN tombs:
opened ; hut the conjecture is, there could not have
been less than two millions, as the Necropolis extended
over sixteen square miles. The principal tombs are
shown to travellers. You descend by a steep short
path into what looks like a pit ; at the end of this
abrupt descent Is a door, which being unlocked at
once introduces you into the sepulchre — a charaber
carved in the rock, dry, clean, and enduring. Above
on the roof, around on the walls, you see figures of
men, aniraals, &c. The games, funeral processions,
banquets, arauseraents and customs of the Etruscans
are here disclosed. The first we entered was called
Grotto della Querciola, the largest of these tombs,
but the colours are faded. The paintings represent
horsemen, boar-hunts, games, groups of dancers, &c.
The second torab I saw was the Grotto del Triclinio, a
fine chamber with a vaulted roof, the paintings repre
senting many figures reclining at a funeral banquet;
one of the ladies is In the act of breaking an egg,
and one of the gentleraen is receiving a cup of wine ;
a tame leopard, a partridge, and a cock are picking up
the crumbs. On another side Is represented a dance,
where the castanets are played. The third tomb
opened for us was the Camera del Morto. This is
small, but highly interesting. One painting exhibits
two youthful figures laying out the dead body of an old
man ; It might be supposed to denote two children per
forming the last sad duties to an aged and loved parent;
a very simple, but most touching representation.
Another represents the funeral dances and ceremo
nies. We then inspected the Grotto del Barone,
chiefly remarkable for some very spirited sketches of
horses in various attitudes. Then we came to the
Grotto delle Inscrizione, of great size and most Inter-

ETRUSCAN TOMBS. 307
esting. Over the door are two tigers; on one side two
figures are standing with a fish, which they hold over
a gridiron; on the other, two persons seated at a kind
of table are playing with dice. The walls are covered
with the greatest variety of groups; wrestlers, boxers,
dancers, horsemen, lions, stags, dogs, &c. and various
human figures, each having an inscription, which,
although legible, cannot be understood or deciphered
by any one. This tomb faces the desolate site of the
ancient city — ^the seat of art and power, the once
splendid horae of those whose features we had but
just seen delineated, and whose naraes we In vain
attempted to decipher. The grotto Is very spacious,
its roof supported by a square pillar, on which Is
painted the Angel of Death, from which It takes its
name. Several sarcophagi are here placed on ledges,
three of which are on the sides of the wall. There
Is one very curious painting, though much faded, of a
procession of souls, attended by genii to their final
abode of good or evil. The band is preceded by a
good genius, the expression of whose countenance is
most pleasing ; around his head is twined a serpent,
and In his hand he bears a lighted torch. A hand
some youth then appears, followed by a monstrous
fiend, the most hideous embodying of the evil genius
of Etruria ; in one hand he carries an Instrument re
sembling a large hammer ; the other, terminating in
a claw, clutches the shoulders of the youth. A
female figure of extreme beauty follows, attended
likevrise by an evil genius with a serpent round his
head. Another highly interesting tomb, the Grotto
del Cardlnale, though fast fading, contains a painting
of a similar character. Two vringed genii are drag
ging in a car to judgment the soul of one deceased :
they are each, the one good, the other evU, contend-

308 ETRUSCAN TOMBS.
ing for the exclusive possession of the soul, whichj
the Etruscans seemed to have thought, preserved after
death the likeness of the body It had quitted, though
In a shadowy form.
This concluded a visit, never to be forgotten, to the
Necropolis, where, as we have said, two millions are
supposed to have been interred, from a city older than
Rome — a people long extinct, who evidently believed
In a future state of good and evil — who curiously
burled their precious ornaments with their dead ;
geras which, now dug up after being burled for ages,
while they stock the museums of the antiquary, teach
us something of the history of a wonderful people.
The raging curiosity of our day will not permit the
dead to rest In peace. There were nine tombs pre
served when Mrs. Hamilton Gray visited Tarquinii.
To that gifted lady we are Indebted for a valuable
description of these remarkable monuments. The
drawings are a Uttle too good for the original, and not
always in exact conforraity with the figures In the
tombs : but this is a pardonable error, and detracts
little from the excellence of her book. She observes —
"An Etruscan Necropolis must have had a striking
efi'ect, crowded with monumental mounds crowned with
sphinxes, and based upon foundations of solid masonry,
with doors all round, and having cope-stones adorned with
lions, sphinxes, and griffins."
From this It will be seen how great Is the error of
those who suppose that the Etruscan torabs were,
when constructed, buried In the earth.
The brief description I have given may suffice to
induce the reader to visit these curious receptacles of
the dead. The lover of home and its delights must
be content with a perusal of Mrs. Hamilton Gray's
admirable work.

POLITICAL EVENTS OF ITALY, 309

CHAPTER XXIIL
POLITICAL EVENTS OF ITALY.

THE OONSPIRAOT.

" 0 conspiracy !
Sham'st thou to show thy dang'rous brow by night.
When evils are most free 1 " July, 1847.
We resume the political history of Pius IX. The
vehement desire of the Roman people for consti
tutional liberty displayed Itself In endless processions,
meetings, speeches, and songs. The Pope was very
civil, promised temperate reforras, while he expressly
guarded himself against the establishraent of any
system of government inconsistent with the rights and
privileges exercised by his predecessors from time imme
morial. Pius IX. became suspected, and naturally,
of Insincerity, insorauch that Padre Ventura was
driven to make a strong appeal to the people on
behalf of the pontiff", during the delivery of his
sermon in praise of the late Mr. O'Connell. The
popular preacher spoke boldly In favour of reform,
and political liberty, coupled, of course, with the
supremacy of the Church. His sermon was sup
pressed by Grassellni. The Jesuits, unluckily for
their safety, artfully and hypocritically attacked the

310 CONSPIRACY OF JULY.
novel doctrines of Ventura from their pulpits. This
fact should be recollected. It shows how remorseless
is the hatred of that body to popular freedom, and
explains the cause of the detestation felt towards
them by the bulk of the Roman people ; however,
sorae parish priests embraced the views of Padre
Ventura, and retorted on the Jesuits ; and so there
was a " very pretty quarrel as it stood," between the
two orders of ecclesiastics.
Meanwhile, the censors of the press enforced their
power, and repressed political discussion. What
Grassellni and Gizzi exactly meant. It may be dif
ficult to ascertain ; that neither was favourable to the
progress of liberty. Is very certain. Gizzi, at a raost
critical raoment, suspiciously resigned his office, and
left the perfidious Governor to work out his abomin
able project, unopposed. The Pope named Cardinal
Ferreti, an excellent raan, successor to Gizzi ; but
the cardinal was at his bishopric, remote from Rome,
and the present opportunity was seized upon to over
turn the government and sacrifice the Pope, while
destitute of a rainister or adviser. The history of Italy,
fearful as It has been, presents not a darker page than
that which records the Conspiracy of July. It is, in
every point of view, an Important epoch In the Pope's
reign ; It comraitted him necessarily and irretrievably
to the cause of progress, and Identified his interests
vrith those of -the people ; It disclosed the profligate
wickedness of sorae ecclesiastics, officials, and papa-
lini ; and. In contrast, the soundness and resolution of
the great body of the Roman people.
The 17th of July had been flxed on to celebrate
by a national festival the great event of the poUtical
amnesty of the year before. During the feast of a

CONSPIRACY OF JULY. 311
delighted and unsuspecting multitude, a gang of dis
charged policemen, (such as Azeglio has described,)
of dlsaff"ected carabineers, of vile spies, aided by the
refuse of the gaols, armed with stilettoes, backed by a
hired band of miscreants from the country and other
cities, who had in small parties been sent into Rome
secretly armed, were all combined to do as foul a work
as ever human malignity devised. A grand display
of fireworks was to have been exhibited on the even
ing of the 17th In the Piazza del Popolo ; here, at
the close of a happy day, the Inhabitants .were
to have been assembled to witness the display, and
to listen to music. The conspirators were to have
been skilfully distributed in bodies through the raul
titude In various places ; at a suitable opportunity a
row was to have been excited ; then a general attack
was to have been made on the unarmed men and
women in the piazzi ; as they would naturally en
deavour to escape by the three leading streets (already
described) running therefrom — namely, the Corso,
the Ripetta, and the Babuina — they were to have
been trampled down by the treacherous carabineers,
who had been brought over by the conspirators.
Those who escaped from the horsemen were to have
been stilettoed without remorse In the back streets by
the hired assassins armed for the bloody work. Such
was the plot hatched, and on the eve of being brought
forth. In the city of Priests. The reforming govern
ment, odious to many, was to have been overthrown ;
and Pius IX. either stilettoed in the confusion, or
carried off to some fortress, or permitted, thence
forward, to exist as the minion of Austria. In this
horrible conspiracy the Governor of Rome, sworn to
fidelity to the Pope, was a prirae agent. Nothing
more strongly convinced me of the difficulty of ascer-

312 the conspiracy of jcly^.
taining a politician's real character In Rome, than the
behariour of Grassellni. I had seen him Installed In
the high office of Governor amidst general acclama
tions. The dissimulation which he practised In Rome
was so 'profound, that this man was regarded as a
friend to the Pope, and an advocate of reform ; yet
did he, beyond a doubt, engage In the conspiracy.
He was raaster of the city, head of the police, gover
nor of the gaols — knew everything. Not only did
he adopt no one measure of precaution against the
conspirators, but he allowed them to fill Rome with
their confederates, and make their preparations un
opposed. Nay, he Is charged vrith having sanctioned
the liberation of prisoners in order to assist In the
massacre. The way in which the plot, was discovered was
curious. A general uneasiness pervaded the public
raind ; It was suspected that sorae design was formed
against the people, yet nobody guessed what It could
be. The strangers of a doubtful class, who appeared
In the streets, attracted some notice, and Cicerouac-
chlou's* energlfes were aroused — the people almost
instinctively discovered their enemies. One remark
able thing had excited attention : the letters S. S.
were perceived to have been written on many houses
of respectable citizens, and it was conceived that the
letters meant Saccheggio e sangue, I. e. plunder and
bloodshed, and denoted that the houses so marked
were to be given up to pillage. This discovery, no
doubt, sharpened the wits of the Inhabitants. The
" Man of the People," perceiving the strange cha
racters referred to In the city, three nights before the
intended Sunday fete of July, set a trusty foUower
* The robust or fat-chopped man.

conspiracy of JULY. 313
to watch the conspirators. The spy, dressed as a
countryman, lay down, as if to sleep. In a door-way
leading to the place of meeting of some of the con
federates. Late at night he saw many men enter,
and afterwards leave the house stealthily. He sud
denly sprang on a single Individual, put a pistol to
his ear, threatened to shoot him on the spot if he
did not disclose what he knew. The villain confessed,
and was made prisoner. CIcerouacchio instantly
ai-oused the brother of Prince Borghese from his
slumbers, and despatched him to Pius IX. with the
dreadful tidings.
The Pope was too well read in Italian history to
doubt the story, or the malignity of his enemies ; he
iinmediately acted with rigour and promptitude —
arrests were made, proclamations issued, the fete
postponed ; but the really Important result was, the
arming and summoning Into activity of the mass of
the people as a national guard. The formation of
this armed militia, thus suddenly resolved and accom
plished, was manifestly owing to the force of circum
stances, which obliged Plus IX. to adopt a measure
that rendered the future administration of govern
ment against the opinion of the people difficult— des
potism impossible. The bulk of the respectable
classes of society thus hurriedly armed, behaved ad
mirably. The conspiracy was crushed, the traitors,
foremost amongst whom was Grassellni, fled ; Ferreti
appeared at the right moraent to consummate the
measures which had been taken, and the cause of the
people was every where triumphant.
Naples and Austria were accused of fomenting this
execrable plot ; and that the agents of Austria were
mixed up In It, seems not unlikely. The Emperor, or
VOL. in. p

814 CONSPIRACY OF JULY.
his ministry, enraged at the Independent course pur
sued by Phis IX., became alarmed at the conse
quences of reform, felt for Lombardy, and no doubt
wished heartily to check the mischievous pontiff.
The Roman people at once accused Ausjtrla, and de
clared that Cardinal Lambruschini and his allies
desired the execution of a great popular tragedy.
Unquestionably the partial occupation of Ferrara on
the 17th of July, the very day of the Intended con
spiracy at Rome, by the troops of Austria, might
fairly lead to the conclusion that the agents of that
power expected something to occur on the same day
In Rome, which would make it advisable for them, at
almost the same time, to seize Ferrara ; possibly all
that the Emperor of Austria did, was but in self-
defence, believing his expulsion from Italy to be the
consequence of the new papal poUcy, and that. In
fact,. It had been determined ; but from whatever
motive that power acted, the step of occupying Fer
rara was unfortunate, as It committed the Pope and
the Emperor to bitter opposition, if not to open
conflict. On this day the war of Independence began in
Italy ; all good Catholics were shocked at the beha
viour of Austria towards the head of the Church,
which that power professed to honour; all ItaUans
breathed one coramon sentiment. Impelling them
onwards to a struggle for national Independence and
constitutional freedom. That such a struggle would
have arisen, whether Austria Invaded the Pope's ter
ritory under pretext of the treaty of Vienna, or not,
is certain ; but the movement of Austria accelerated
the contest, as every accession to the cause of popular
liberty in, Rome Inspired the Milanese with fresh

CONSPIRACY OF JULY. 315
ardour, and quickened their Impatience of German
rule. Respecting this memorable conspiracy, one
remarkable fact Is to be noted : although many arrests
were made and much Information was gained by the
government, and although disclosures must have been
obtained Implicating distinguished persons, no public
tried ever took place exposing the guilty. The whole
aff'air was hushed up. The good of the Church re
quired this prudent silence ; priests, cardinals, and
officials, were accused, but not tried ; the people,
generous and triumphant, forgot vengeance in their
victory, and the march of great events was so rapid,
that the recollection of the criminals and their
crime was lost amidst the din of arms and the bustle
of war.

p 2

316 T^lE KING OF SARDINIA,

CHAPTER XXIV.
POLITICAL EVENTS IN ITAhY—c&atimued.
Character of Pius IX. developed.
The occupation of Ferrara was foUowed by protests
and counter-protests ; Cardinal CiacchI . protested in
the name of the Pope against the act, as illegal and
Insulting. The .<*Lustrian minister insisted that the
treaty of Vienna, which gave to Austria the righ^ of
garrison In the place of Ferrara, conferred by the use
of that expression not merely the right to garrison
the citadel, but the town enclosed by the wall, and
pretended he had always meant to exercise the right
so secured.
The crafty King of Sardinia now appeared In the
field of diplomacy, and he protested Ukevrise against
the occupation of Ferrara by the Austrians, and
oflfered the aid of the weighty arm of the flesh to the
Pope. This move was made when Charles Albert
perceived how the tide of popular freedom ran In
Italy. A flame of politic excitement now_ burned
all over the peninsula; the reforms In Rome and
Tuscany, the grant of some freedora of the press, the
Institution of a national guard, the occupation of
Ferrara, and the Pope's bold protest^ added fuel to the
flarae. Naples and Sicily were almost in open conflict.
Lombardy, naturally Impatient of the despotism
which oppressed her, heartily united In feeling with

CHARACTER OF PIUS IX. 317
the Pope. Austria, no doubt, miscalculated the effect
of the movement in Ferrara. Had It been a mere
ItaUan prince who had dared to defy her power, she
would have speedily crushed him ; but could Austria,
who openly confessed spiritual allegiance to the Pope,
comraence a war of violence against her holy father ?
Impossible; It would have shocked her Roman
Catholic subjects ; a general revolt might have been
apprehended, not only in Lombardy, but in the
Tyrol, and even In Germany. Meanwhile, the Pope
acted as If he apprehended invasion, and prepared for
It, accepting also the aid of Charles Albert, who then
appeared In the eyes.of all true believers as the pro
tector of the Pope and defender of reUgion.
In Naples, arbitrary power was exercised by the
bigoted sovereign of that beautiful but distracted
country, to crush the rising spirit of his subjects.
The people of Piedmont .besought .their WiUing
monarch to assume a noble and imposing attitude,
exclaiming, " Command, oh sire, coramand ! for life
and property are no sacriflces to us when there are
at stake Independence and the glory of the Italian
name." Resistance to Austria was made a raatter of
religion. There was much popular excitement in
Genoa. A petition was prepared to the king, de
manding the Institution of a national guard, and of
a qualified free press. This petition, the municipal
authority expressed their wiUingness to sign, provided
It would not be unacceptable to the government. It
^as accordingly submitted for approval to the king,
at Turin, and that conscientious monarch forbade the
petition, showing clearly what his real sentiments
were. His whole conduct during this period was
doubtful and suspicious. The force of circumstances

318 CHARACTER OF FIUS IX.
and ambition, not a generous love of freedom,
prompted the concessions subsequently made by
Charles Albert.
Alarmed at the unexpected consequences which
resulted from the occupation of Ferrara, Austria
deemed it prudent to yield ; and accordingly, late In
September, re-delivered the possession of the town,
which in an evil hour she had taken, to the papal
govemraent. This was virtually a defeat of the
power which had theretofore been considered the
greatest in Italy, and which reckoned In its ranks
400,000 men.
' Sorae events whieh occurred in other countries at
this time aff"orded Insight Into the real character oT
the Pope. A civil war was threatened in Svritzer
land, savouring of a religious character. The govern
ment, and bulk of the Svriss people. Insisted on the
expulsion of the Jesuits, and the submission of the
priests to the temporal authorities. The Pope natur
ally sided with his priestly brethren. But we have
in this Instance a valuable example of the advantage
of a press even partially free, and a striking proof of
the good sense and UberaUty of the laity, contrasted
with the intolerance of the priesthood. The popular
journal in Rome, the Contemporaneo, pubUshed in the
latter end of September a long and curious leading
article, entitled" PartitoCattolico ;" the object ofthe
writer was to condemn the project of what was called
in Brussels and Switzerland, a Catholic party in the
State, opposed to the ruling power, and to inculcate
the duty of submission to the diet.
Thus a Roman Catholic writer in Rome argued,
that submission to the government, being Protestant,
was a duty to be cheerfully performed by Roman

HIS DISMISSION OF THE CENSOR. 319
Catholic subjects ; and that the formation of a Roman
Catholic faction, as such. In a state, was not only un
principled, but Indefensible. The article was received
with general approbation by the laity ; not so by the
Pope ; and the censor of the press who had permitted
the publication of the obnoxious article was dis
missed. The official paper, II Diario Romano, also
published a condemnation of the admirable composi
tion already noticed. It Is not unfair to conclude,
that the real sentiments of Pius IX. were the oppo
site of those thus advocated In the Contemporaneo.
The Pope exposed himself again to defeat; — there
was a burst of Indignation, not only In Rome, but in
Florence, in consequence of this arbitrary proceeding ;
Cardinal Ferreti plainly announced to the holy father
that he must cease to be minister, unless the liberal
censor were restored : the Pope yielded, and the
cause of the people again triumphed. The Incident
Is valuable, as enabling us to forra a right estimate of
the true character of Pius IX.
To satisfy the popular deraands, in the raonth of
October a proclamation for the formation of a senate
was issued ; this body was to be constituted on more
enlarged principles than the feeble council before
appointed by the Pope. It was to consist of one
hundred members. The majority were to be landed
proprietors, the remainder to be composed of lawyers
or merchants, ^ith four priests only.
I do not find that these representatives, although
they came frora various districts, were chosen by any
form of popular election. I believe that these, Uke
the forraer provincial deputies, were named at first
by the Pope. It seems, each deputy was to be raain
tained while In Rome at the expense of his district.

320 CHARACTER OF PIUS IX.
The grand distinction between this senate and
the first mockery of a parUament was, that the new
senate was announced to be a permanent body in the
State. But still this senate was merely In the nature
of a consultative body, not a parliament, according to
our understanding of the thing. What the Pope
thought of it, will appear frora his opening speech,
which is tolerably distinct.
"It has been with a riew to the public good that, from
the first momenfc of my being raised to the pontifical throne,
I have done, under the inspiration of God, all thaf I have
been able to do ; and I am ready, by Grod's assistance, to do
as much in future, without, Iiowever, in anywise retrenching
the sovereignty of ike poniificate, as I have received it full
and entire from my predecessors, so that I may in like
manner transvfiit it to my successors. It is with the object
of better knowing these wants of my people, and providing
for the exigencies of the pubhc welfare, that I have united
you in a permanent council — it is to listen, in case of need,
to your advice, and to avail myself of its aid in my sove
reign resolutions, in which I shall consult my own con
science, and confer upon it with my ministers and the sacred
college. He will deceive himself greatly who shall see in
the Consulta di Sfcafco, which I have jusfc creafced, a realisa
tion of his own Ufcopian notions, or the germ of an institu
tion incompatable with the pontifical sovereignty."
However, aU that the Pope had previously done,
so far at least as foreign kingdoms were concerned,
yielded in importance to the encyclical letter ad
dressed to the Irish Roman Catholic bishops, on the
subject of the new colleges established in Ireland.
The Imperial legislature in its wisdom had enacted
the foundation of three collegiate Institutions In dif
ferent provinces, for promoting education amongst
the middle classes of that country. Having regard

THE pope's ENCYCLICAL LETTER. 321
to the condition of Ireland, Parliament deemed it
expedient not to require any religious test, or the
ascendency of any form of the Christian religion
within these Institutions, while facilities were af
forded for each denomination of Christians to give
religious Instruction outside the walls, to the students,
according to their faith and opinions. The primate
of the Established Church submitted judiciously to
the will of the legislature, and wisely endeavoured,
vrith his usual Uberality, by a munificent subscription
to remedy any mischief which might possibly arise
from the omission noticed, by providing outside the
walls a system of religious Instruction for the Pro
testant students. The Roman Catholic bishops of
Ireland referred the decision as to what their conduct
ought to be In reference to these colleges, to the
Pope ; and In reply, his holiness addressed to them
bis memorable encyclical letter — a production which
astonished the people of the British empire. The
material passages of this epistle are the foUowing : —
" First, we deem it our duty to declare, that it never
entered the mind of the Sacred Congregation that the prer
lates who appeared to be in favour of establishing the
colleges had anything wrong in view, since long experience
has conrinced us of their probity, and that they were
induced to adopt those views solely from the hope of efi'ecfcr.
ing greater good, and consulting the interests of religion in
Ireland. However, the Sacred Congregation, having con
sidered the matter maturely and in all ifcs bearings, dares
not promise ifcself such fi-uits from fche erection of those
colleges. Nay, more, it dreads that the Catholic faitij
would thereby be placed in imminent danger ; in one
word, it is convinced that an institution of this sort proves
detrimental to religion.
p3

322 RESOLUTION OF THE IRISH BISHOPS.
" For these reasons it has felt it its duty to caution the
archbishops and bishops of Ireland against taking any
part in establishing them. But as the Sacred Congregation
would have wished, before some of the prelates had entered
into any negotiation with the government for amending
the law regarding the aforesaid coUeges, and procuring
other measures in their favour, that they had taken the
opinion of the Holy See, so it douhts not hut that from ttie
profound obedience which the prelates of Ireland invariably
exhibited towards it, they will retract those things which
they have done to the contrary.
" The Sacred Congregation is weU aware how important
it is that prorision should be made for the scientific
instruction of the youth, especially of the higher class ; it
therefore exhorts your Grace and your Suffragans to adopt
all the legitimate means in your power to promote such
instruction. " Above all things, the Sacred Congregation would deem
ifc advantageous that the bishops, uniting their exertions,
should procure the erection in Ireland of such a Catholic
Academy as the prelates of Belgium have founded in the
city of Louvain.
" With all those things you will, we are sure, comply
with the greater earnestness, as they are in entire con-
formifcy with the judgment of our most holy lord, Pius
IX. ; for, after he had obtained accurafce information on
the whole of this case, he sanctioned with his approbation
the decision of the Sacred Congregation, and gave to it the
supreme weight of his authority."
An important resolution was passed by the assem
bled bishops of the Church of Rome In Ireland, on
the receipt of this encyclical letter.
"Resolved — That the warmest and most respe(>,tfal
thanks of the Catholic prelates be tendered to his holiness,
for his decision and insfcrucfcions conveyed in the letter

REFLECTIONS. 323
now read from the Cardinal Prefect of the Congregation de
Propaganda Fide, in reference to the provi ucial colleges in
progress of erection by the government ; and that our chair
man, the, Archbishop of Tuam, be requested to forward fco
the holy fafcher this expression of our unanimous and
unbounded gratitude.''
My Roman Catholic brethren will not receive in
an unkind spirit the observations which naturally
occur to a Protestant In reflecting upon this extra
ordinary proceeding of Pope Plus IX.
It has been repeatedly asserted, that Protestants
display a discreditable distrust of their Roman
CathoUc countrymen — an Ignorance of their real
opinions, of the nature of their obligation towards
the Pope, of his authority, and of the power of the
priesthood over the laity. There may be some truth
In these assertions ; the Roraan Catholic may point
to several parts of Europe where (after some struggles
vrith the priesthood) religious liberty has been esta-
blished by Roman Catholic nations ; and he may
justiy say, he is wilUng to be as tolerant as the people
of those kingdoms ; and that thousands of the Roraan
CathoUcs in Ireland think thus sensibly, and would
act In a spirit of enlightened toleration towards their
fellow-citizens, I cannot doubt. But they will can
didly consider the views which the raost temperate
Protestant must entertain of this late remarkable
Instance of papal interposition. The Parliament of
this Empire, after deep deUberation, frame a law to
advance public education. The Pope of Rorae, a
foreigner. Intrudes his veto on this law, and cora
raands the Roman Catholic bishops, priests, and laity
to resist and defeat it. Those who feel themselves
bouiid to obey the Bishop of Rome will do so, and

324 THE pope's SPIRITUAL POWER.
nullify the act of Parliament if they can. Thus the;
Pope and the British legislature are In collision, and
the raan who assumes to be head of the universal
Christian Church, coramands his spiritual subjects In
Ireland to baffle a law enacted by the constituted
authorities In the State. The Pope asserts he has
this power, and the Roraan Catholic bishops assert
the same thing, and have announced their resolve to
obey the Pope, and not the legislature. But If the
Pope has the right and power to defeat this particular
statute, he may enjoin disobedience to any law which
he thinks hurtful to education or to his system of
religion, and thus raay paralyse the exertions of the
British legislature. In reference to questions such
as these noticed, the Pope, not the Parliament,
governs, If the people obey him, as In conscience
many would feel bound to do. If the Pope can for
bid these colleges, he may, on the like principle, call
for the aboUtion of those which already exist. If they
are not to his taste ; and as he regrdates the colleges
for adults, so ought he the schools for the young.
Nay, the principle of the Pope's authority might be
pushed to .this extent, that he ought to dictate to
grown men what books they should read In their
manhood, as he had dictated their studies in child
hood, and this would exactly reduce the Roman
Catholics of Ireland to the condition of their brethren
in Rome — a condition which renders It impossible
for a man to purchase any book except It be per
mitted by the priesthood. .
That many of the enlightened Roman Catholic
kingdoms in Europe would pay no regard to tlie
Pope's Intervention or encyclical letter. Is very clear.
In Ireland it has been received with Implicit defer-.

HIS INFLUENCE AS A TEMPORAL RULER. 325
ence. If we exaraine this papal pretension with the
eye of reason, how absurd must it appear ! An Italian
bishop, wholly unacquainted with our laws, language,
customs, habits, and Institutions, arrogates to himself
the right of deciding what mode of public education
Is best suited for the youth of our country. This Is
as ridiculous and oflfensive, as if our bishops were to
lay down a scheme of national education for the
ItaUan people, and presume to Intermeddle In their
concems. It Is astonishing to reflect how long this
delusion respecting the Infallible supreme authority
of the Bishop of Rome has continued. That it is
rapidly subsiding, may be regarded as one of the
greatest blessings of the age ; but one of the most
certain means of expelling this delusion from the
mind. Is to go out to Rome, and, residing near to the
Propaganda, to Inquire Into the talents, knowledge,
and mental vigour of the cardinals who preside In its
deUberations. Xiet the Inquirer next ask frora the
inteUigent natives, what they think of these rulers of
the Church — ^he will speedily learn, that all are agreed
as to the utter Incorapetency of these -weak old men
to govern the affairs of their own people, especially
the education of youth, much raore to intermeddle in
the aflFairs of other nations, or to decide how men
ouffht to be educated, in order to become useful
citizens of a free and busy state.*
* The Pope by his late rescript has confirmed his former judg
ment respecting the Irish Provincial Colleges. They are condemned
as injurious to the Eoman Catholic reUgion. This rash decision has
been pronounced at the very moment when a discussion exists
between the Pope and his parUament in Eome, upon the question of
popular education.
I cannot perceive anything in the recent conduct of Pius IX. to
induce me to alter the opinion formed, on a careful consideration of

326 CHARACTER OF PIUS IX.
But while I venture thus to reason on the principle
of the condemnation of the Irish colleges by Pius IX.
let It not be supposed that I blame him, as pope, for
so genuine an assertion of papal supremacy. He has
been resolute and consistent in upholding his absurd
and despotic principles. The vast body of the Romish
priesthood In Ireland and In Italy, the Sacred Col
lege, and the multitudes connected with ecclesiastical
government, saw to their satisfaction that Pius IX.,
whatever reforms or modifications he might Introduce
Into the political system, proved the uncompromising
asserter of the universal authority of the papacy over
sovereigns and parUaments. There can be little ques
tion that this chivalrous devotion to his Church, and
maintenance of her assumptions, has given Pius IX.
Immense Influence as a temporal ruler, and disarmed
priestly opposition to his political reforms. That he
will prove mistaken In his attempt to reconcile
absolute, infallible, ecclesiastical power, with political
liberty, the right of discussion, and a free press, I firmly
beUeve ; but It Is not the less certain he will at
tempt it.
As If to compensate for this escapade against the
Irish colleges, our excellent Pope corabined with the
Grand Duke of Tuscany, arad the King of Sardinia,
to eflfectuate a vrise reform In the customs law of
these kingdoms, viz., the formation of a customs
league, and the abolition of the teasing restraints
which embarrassed comraerce. The abolition of the
customs frontier of those states was a stride In re-
his character. If he can succeed in directing the education of the
Eoman Catholic countries of Europe, he will govern the minds of
the people— the grand object with all Popes — now it is hoped im
practicable.

CHARACTER OF PIUS IX. 327
•
form, and moreover, had a poUtical effect in creating
a common spirit amongst the people. This was one
of the favourite measures 'recommended by the so-
called Scientific Congress at Genoa ; — those who then
proposed, scarcely expected Its speedy realization.
The population of these States, amounting to nine
milUons, are now united In the closest bonds of In
terest with each other, Naples and Sicily, during
these wise and progressive reforms In Rome, Tuscany,
and Sardinia, presented a dismal spectacle ; oppres
sions and Injustice were daily practised, and as uni
versally asserted and beUeved ; the judicious remon
strances of his ablest ministers to the sovereign were
thwarted by the eril counsels of Code, his Jesuit
confessor. We have concluded the year 1847, an Important
one In Italian history. With unmlngled feeUngs of
satisfaction and joy we have seen the Italian people
in some of the States taking a decided step towards
reforms greatly tieeded, and laying the foundations.
It may be hoped, deep and lasting, of constitutional
freedom.

328 NAPLES.

CHAPTER XXV.
POLITICAL EVENTS IN ITALX—continued.
When we divert our attention from Rome to
Naples, a curious combination of men and of events
presents itself to our view. The enlightened Neapo
litans, availing themselves of the successes of the
Sicilians In their fierce struggle against the govern
ment which oppressed thera, demanded constitutional
reform, which, under the circumstances in which he
was placed, the king feared to refuse. Accordingly
he proclairaed what was styled a Constitution. The
respectable classes accepted the kingly concession
joyfully ; a national guard was formed, and bright
hopes were entertained for the future. But these
hopes were quickly dashed. The lazzaroni subjects
of a lazzaroni king at the outset opposed this reform,
shouted " Down with the constitution ! " and broke
out Into acts of rapine and violence. The national
guard resisted the disturbers, and blood was shed.
By whom the lazzaroni were Instigated does not dis
tinctly appear, but may be guessed. Debased and
enslaved they were, and debased and enslaved they
Insisted on remaining ; and, combining with their
sovereign, they have ever since presented a formidable
obstacle in the way of the educated Neapohtans'
securing freedom. What a picture of the degradation
of huraan nature ! The Idea of conferring political

NEAPOLITAN CONSTITUTION. 329
power on a large portion of the population of Naples,
would be madness. How the middle classes can
guard against the effects of the Ignorance, supersti
tion, and rapacity which characterize the lazzaroni
populace, I cannot anticipate.
One reraarkable fact occurred throughout the con
test between the king and the patriotic portion of his
subjects. The latter abhorred the Jesuits, especially
the confessor (Code) of the royal family, and demanded
the expulsion of the obnoxious order. The king and
the lazzaroni clung to the disciples of Loyola : this
was natural, yet highly Instructive to us. The pro
gramrae of the Neapolitan constitution was drawn up
carefully, of course prepared by able lawyers, under
the ministry which forced the hesitating sovereign to
proclaira It, The number of deputies was fixed at
164 (excluding Sicily); they were to be chosen for a
period of flve years. The elector was required to
have an Income of 24 ducats annually, while the
qualification of the deputy was speclfled to be 240
ducats per year. There was an abatement in the
franchise qualiflcatlon of one half In favour of those
who had an university diploma, and had exercised
their various professions during five years. All these
prorisions look very well on paper; the difficulty
may be to find a sufficient stock of virtue and intelli
gence to make the paper constitution work. I think
the elective franchise was too low, for although it
would exclude the bulk of the population, stUl It
would Include too many not only unaccustomed to,
but unfit for the exercise of political power. This
latter remark would apply more strongly to the rural
districts than to the metropolis. I was delighted to
learn that the truly enlightened advocate, to whom I

330 EXPULSION OF THE JESUITS.
was indebted for so much courtesy and information,
was elected a deputy in the first NeapoUtan parlia
ment ; but whether he has escaped hitherto the eflfects
of the conspiracy formed between the king and the
lazzaroni, I have not heard. The desideratum in
Naples would be some Independent council or senate,
representing the opinions of the educated classes, and
sufficiently strong to raaintain itself against the king,
the priests, and the populace.
Let it not be forgotten, that in the new constitution
of Naples, there was no abatement of the great doc
trine of Intolerance: no religion, save the Roman
Catholic, was permitted existence. Religious liberty
is not comprehended In Italy ; the very mention of it
has been avoided. What a strange spectacle It would
be, to behold political liberty established throughout
the peninsula, while religious liberty was forbidden !
This spectacle, however, would not last very long ; In
a greater or less degree the one wiU assuredly foUow
from the other. The ItaUan priesthood must at last
appeal to reason, and not vainly endeavour to repress
It. They should wisely take warning from the events
passing before their eyes, and yield ere It is too late.
The following narrative of the expulsion of the Jesuits
from Naples Is ominous of the fate of all or most of
the monastic orders In Italy : —
" For some days past well-dressed mobs have collected
before the Jesuits' College, hooting, hissing, and threatening
to bum the building down. A sort of deputation from the
concourse had an interview with the director of the com
munity, and declared that its leavingwas essential to the
peace of the city. After much reluofcance the director
promised to do so on the next morning.
" The next morning I went up to see the finale : an

EXPULSION OF THE JESUITS. 331
immense crowd had assembled in the front of the college,
as also in the streets. At four o'clock, p. m., the long-
expected aaoment arrived : fifteen carriages issued from the
gates of the college, bearing in them the holy fathers. On
the box of each carriage was a national guard. Two more
on horseback rode on each side, and round each carriage
was a hedge of bayonets. Behind followed a battalion of
the national guard, a regiment of the Swiss, and a squadron
of cavalry. The people at this moment observed the most
perfect silence. It was a picture well calculated to produce
a deep impression. The procession descended by Monte
OUve, until they at length arrived at the Mola, where the
steamer Vesurio was in waiting for them. The crowd here
was most dense, and on the steamer learing the land there
was one general shout of joy."
This Is the body which It is now proposed to
estabUsh In England. A Roman CathoUc kingdom
cannot tolerate the Jesuits, but they are deserving of
the warmest encouragement In Protestant England. I
admit, they can work least mischief in a Protestant
nation ; but whatever may be asserted of the Jesuits
by the pretended friends of religious liberty, I can
safely assert, I never heard the system adopted by the
Jesuits spoken of in Italy except In terms of abhor
rence, and this quite disconnected from any personal
disUke to the Individual members of the order. The
Uberal 'party in Naples, or, more properly speaking, a
section of It, having accomplished the expulsion o^ the
Jesuits, rashly attempted to banish or suppress the
Carmelites and other orders of friars ; the lazzaroni
immediately ralUed In defence of their beloved in
structors ; a reUgious war might have ensued, which
was happUy averted by the abandonment of the mis
chievous project. Thus, the lazzaroni preserved their

332 SCHEME OF CHARLES ALBERT.
superstition ; It would have been endangered by the
expulsion of the Ignorant friars who are Its mainstay.
About the period when these remarkable events
took place in Naples, there was a movement against
the Jesuits in Rome itself, and a popular commotion
was threatened. On Patricks day, an Irish priest, in
the course of his sermon In the monastery of. St.
Isidore, Is reported to have declared that, "should
foreign invasion or doraestic conspiracy deprive Pio
Nono of the old patrimony of St. Peter, Ireland would
be proud to furnish a new abode" of the popedom, a
new central focus of fervent Catholicity. What
Avignon was, let Dublin be." More iraprobable
events in this revolutionary age have come to pass,
than would be the appearance of Pius IX. in the
streets of Dublin. '
I raust now briefly advert to the doings of Charles
Albert. This artful sovereign deemed it prudent to
grant a constitution to his own subjects, before he
proclaimed himself the assertor of Uberty on behalf
of other states. Accordingly, being pressed by his
subjects, and impelled by his own ambition, he not
only granted a free constitution to his people, but
summoned Csesare Balbo to his counsels, to carry the
great project into execution. The Piedraontese have
secured freedom; and what Is highly interesting- to
the Protestant reader, the once persecuted followers
of the reformed faith, in the territory of Charles
Albert^ who had been barely suflfered to worship God
according to their consciences, and exist In their
secluded valleys, were now Invested with political
privileges, and permitted to exercise the right of
voting for members of the new-born senate. Thus a
principle was established, which may in Italy lead to
happier results.

REVOLUTION IN MILAN. 333
Charles Albert was now In a condition to prosecute
his darling scheme of ambition, and, accordingly, pre
pared rigorously for war, declaring in his proclamation,
" That his heart throbbed to see the universal en
thusiasm ; that It would be glorious for him to lead a
generous people on the holy enterprise, of which the
sovereign Pius IX- had been the first promoter : " a,
well-deserved tribute to the head of the Christian
church. Of the army of Charles Albert we may
observe. It is composed of young, active men, whose
dress and warUke appearance are the opposite of the
lubberly Roman soldier. I happened to be present
at a reriew In Turin, and adraired the rapid raoveraents
and soldierly aspect of the troops. I may add, phy
sically, the Austrian soldier Is a bigger, certainly a
hearier man.
The Milanese were not slow in avenging theraselves ;
their insurrection burst forth with a degree of fury,
for which Radetsky does not seem to have been pre
pared. The struggle In the streets of Milan was not,
however, long or sanguinary ; In one account It was
stated, that not more than 150 of the citizens were
killed. The clergy took a decided part with the
people against their sovereign. We read —
"The conduct of the Archbishop of Milan throughout
the struggle is mentioned in terms of the highest admira
tion. That prelate, from the commencement to the end of
the conflict, shared all the dangers of the populace. His
reverend figure was conspicuous, attired in his pontifical
robes, above the barricades, haring the crucifix in one
hand, and waving a tri-coloured flag in the other."
I greatly doubt whether this was conduct becoming
a Christian prelate — a minister of the gospel of peace.

334 FREE CONSTITUTION IN ROME.
I confess, I was surprised at the result of the contest
between the Austrians and Milanese ; notwithstanding
the proud-boast of Radetsky, the wings of the Austrian
eagle have been considerably clipped. Although
Austria has since gained great advantages', it may be
expected that her rule will soon cease in Lombardy,*
It vrill be a happy thing for Italy, If, In matters of
administration, the Italians Imitate the steadiness.
Integrity, ability, and correctness, of their German
rulers. Frora Vienna to Venice, Lombardy was care
fuUy watched over, justice between man and raan was
faithfully dispensed, property was protected, life
secured, pauperism. stayed, under the Austrian sway.
Political liberty Lombardy had not, and Austria
wanted the grace and vrisdom to yield, at the right
moment, what cannot In the altered condition of the
peninsula be long withheld. Horrible scenes have
been enacted at Naples ; the king has, for a time,
crushed liberty in the metropolis, but it vriU spring
up In force and power In the provinces, and probably
crush him.
Reverting to Rome, we find Pius IX. acting in
the same way we have before pointed out. The tem*
pest of the French revolution affected Italy by Its
fury. No sooner had the inteUigence of it reached
•* I do not retract the opinion above expressed ; because the recent
successes of Austria have merely established her military supremacy,
and she governs Lombardy only by the bayonet. So long as the
Germans can maintain an overwhelming army in Milan, they wiU
hold it Should the necessities of the empire require the withdrawal
of that army, the Milanese will of course rise against their op
pressors. Lombardy is not therefbre now govemed hy Austria, it is
merely held by the sword. This species of government, although
admired by the Quarterly Review, is fast going out of fashion in
the civilized world.

REFLECTIONS. 335
Rome, than the senate, as It was terraed, presented
a bold address to the Pope, demanding the constitution
which had been promised, but not granted. His
holiness was assured that further delay would be at
tended with fatal consequences ; under the force of cir
cumstances, he compUed with the Irresistible demand ;
replying very truly, " That which In a secular state
can be accomplished In one night, demands the most
minute examination In a pontifical state, as it Is very
difficult to trace an exact Une to mark the limits of
the two powers."
Thus we find Rome now for the first tirae since the
days of Rienzi possessed of a free constitution.
No future Pope dare retrograde ; If the rash
attempt to undo what has been done were made, the
Pope and the papacy would perish together. The
elections have been held ; deputies have been chosen ;
the Parliament has met, and already storray discussions
have taken place. The Jesuits have been expeUed ;
an event to be expected in the attainment of political
power by the laity. WTiat the future condition of
the papacy may be, or what effect this free consti
tution may produce on the spiritual authority of the
Pope, It Is not easy to prophesj'. Some raaintain, the
spiritual power will be greater, and more respected
and obeyed, when divested of the arbitrary temporal
power with which It has been so long associated and
defiled. Others Insist, the spiritual and temporal
anthorlties have been so long connected, that they
cannot exist In full Independent action, separate and
apart, I Incline to the latter opinion ; the habit of
examining and criticising the Pope's acts, as a tem-'
poral ruler, wIU lead to the Uke practice In reference

336 REFLECTIONS.
to his acts as a spiritual ruler ; and reason may be
applied to the consideration of his conduct in both
capacities alike. Moreover, how Is the Pope to
enforce his spiritual edicts ? WUl the laity of Rome
longer submit to be Iraprisoned if they do not attend
confession ? Most unlikely ; and If the ceremonies
of the Church cannot be enforced, what becomes of
their value in the eyes of the people ? How long
will the Index Expurgatorius exist ? How long the
monasteries and convents, and the religious corpo
rations ?
The laws relating to landed property in the Papal
States must be changed; and. In so doing, the Im
mense possessions of the Church will be Interfered
with, curtailed, or appropriated to secular purposes.
The freedom of the press will encourage freedom of
thought ; and how the latter can co-exist with abso
lute, InfaUible, spiritual authority over the mind of
man, It is very difficult to comprehend. That some
reformation In the Church of Rome must be made,
I believe ; the only question will be as to its extent.
.The result I apprehend will be, that political liberty
In Italy will ultimately advance the cause of pure
religion. In conclusion, how gratifying It is to every observer
to perceive, that the revolutions which have occurred
in Italy have not been stained with the cruelties and
excesses which have disgraced France ! The ItaUans
are not restrained by the sanctions of religion; their
nature is gentler, kinder, and, I think, nobler than
that of the French: therefore they may advance
tempera:tely and wisely to freedom.

RECENT EVENTS IN ITALY.
(SECOND EDITION.)

DOWNFAL OF THE PAPACY.
The recent Intelligence from Rome has naturally
shocked the humanity of the British people. The
assassination of Rossi, considering the time, the place,
and the surrounding circumstances, was a crime as
thoroughly Italian as any we read of In the darkest
period of the history of Italy. Were we to believe
that this audacious murder had been the result of a
general, wide-spread conspiracy, it would exhibit an
appalling depravity In the Roman people. But while
we express our abhorrence of the assassin, and of the
general wickedness which prompted or applauded
a crime so awful, we ought to inquire what have
been the character and the teaching of the past
governments of such a people, to have made them
unacquainted vrith, or forgetful of, the feelings of
humanity and the laws of God. It does not appear,
considering all the accounts we have received, to have
been established, that Rossi's murder was planned by
any large confederation of persons. The crime may
have been the result of a general conspiracy, or It
may have been prompted by Individual animosity or
revenge. The assassination of the minister does not
VOL. m. Q

338 DOWNFAL OF THE PAPACY.
seem to have been succeeded by any general assault
on persons or property ; nor does such a crime appear
to have been necessarily connected with the popular
resolve of compelling the Pope to change his minis
ters. In fact, whether Rossi lived or died, the
sovereignty of the Pope would have been equally In
danger. It Is almost Impossible to reconcile such a
system as the Papacy with a free constitution — the
Pope suprerae and infallible in all matters connected
with church property, discipline, doctrine and edu
cation — the parliament by Its free discussion, rir-
tually denying this infallible authority every hour.
StiU, the prostration of the papacy has been more
rapid than could have been anticipated. And it must
be adraitted, that this astounding event has happened
under the sway of a Pope, who had done more for
the political amelioration of his subjects, than any of
his predecessors since the days of Rienzi, Pius IX,
provoked the rebeUion of his subjects by no act of
cruelty, oppression, or persecution. Viewed as a
temporal prince, he must carry with him In his exile
the respect of Europe. But our amazement must
be far greater that the Papacy has lasted so long, than
that It has fallen now. I greatly doubt if the reforms
of Pius IX., as Is commonly supposed, hastened Its
downfal. The crash was nigh when he ascended the
Papal throne. So long as the priesthood were able
to impress the minds of the people with a beUef in
the infallibility of the Pope, the Papacy fiourished ;
but this delusion had utterly vanished under Gre
gory XVI,, and Pius IX. could not restore It. We
cannot beUeve that those who besieged the Pope
In his palace on the Quirinal, had any faith in
his power to aflfect their eternal happiness. Had

DOWNFAL OF THE PAPACY, 339
he menanced them with a thousand years' penance in
purgatory for their rebellion ag-ainst the Vicar of
Christ, they would have listened to his denunciation
In silent contempt.. This is the Important fact to be
regarded in the late movement in Rorae; and it
would be a vain task to restore the Pope and his
cardinals by force of arras. If they have lost their
hold over the rainds of the Roman people. I also
believe It would be an utter fallacy to presume, from
their opposition to the Pope, that the people have
become infidels. They would say they are good
CathoUcs, although they may not beUeve all they
have been heretofore taught, and will no longer be
governed by a priest. We must remember, also,
there are evils of Immense magnitude in the papal
system, which no Pope could ever venture to remove.
These have been long acutely felt by the papal sub-;
jects. Enormous tracts of land are locked up in the
hands of reUgious corporations, of convents, monas
teries, hospitals under control of priests, and cathe-,
drals. These are rather Increased than diminished
"every year, through bequests and gifts ; while the vast
possessions of the nobles, under, the effects of a mis-,
chlevous feudal law of entail, cannot be alienated or
disposed of, A thorough reform In these important
particulars Involves a breaking up of the papal system.
From the published correspondence between the
Austrian and English ministers in 1832, it appears
that the admission of popular election into the
papal states was refused, on the ground assigned by
Prince Metternich, that it was altogether alien to the
Institutions of the papacy. And by the same high
official authority, it was objected against the forma
tion of a council of st^te. In addition to the college

340 DOWNFAL OF THE PAPACT.
of cardinals, that such a council would certainly act
in opposition to the Sacred College. This was pro
phetic In the experienced statesman, who would have
himself governed the patrimony of the Church in a
very diflferent fashion frora that pursued by Its im
becile or irapracticable ministers, whom the prince
could not prevail upon to atterapt any adralnistrative
reforra in an honest spirit. We are not, therefore, to
be surprised at the downfal of the papacy, aftei It
had been actually secularized, and the monopoly
claimed by the college of cardinals destroyed. The
feeling has long prevailed In Rome, that cardinals and
their pensions could be dispensed with ; and It is
plain, that down to the last moraent of their official
existence these men still Imagined they saw a believing
world at their feet, still presumptuously Intermeddled
in the aff'airs of other nations (as for example In the
matter of the Irish provincial colleges), still attempted
to govern the minds of their fellow-creatures by bulls,
briefs, and encycUcal epistles.
That England would aflTord an honourable asylum
to Pius IX. Is certain; that she would pay to a fallen
prince all the respect due to his virtue and his mis
fortunes, there can be little doubt ; that she would by
armed Intervention endeavour to force the papal sys
tem of governraent back upon a reluctant people, is
a thing impossible to be believed. That France ought
to take every precaution to afford personal protection
to the late Pope, and a safe asylum if he desires It,
Is very reasonable ; but that revolutionized France
should be allowed to marcii an army Into Rome, in
order to re-establish the temporal authority of Plus
IX., Is wholly out of the question. Not to observe
upon the Inconsistency and absurdity of a people who-

DOWNFAL OF THE PAPACY, 341
have just overthrown their lawful government and
expelled their king, setting out to restore the papacy,
French Intervention would be fraught with danger to
the peace of Europe — It would be made a fatal pre
cedent. Let me suppose that the mischievous demo-;
crats of Berlin had succeeded in their project, had
imitated the scenes of Paris, and set up a republic
on the new model; would the French republicans
have looked quietly on, while England marched an
army to the assistance of a rirtuous king, the friend
of Queen Victoria, and the faithful ally of the
British nation? Assuredly not. And on the like
principle. Inconsistent, volatile, fickle France must
not be permitted, under the pretence of reverencing
the Pop.e's spiritual authority, to make war on the
Roman people, in order to re-establish a system
plainly odious to the feelings of the mass of the
papal subjects.
It is remarkable, that the French journal now re
puted to have the largest circulation, openly advocates
the policy of enforcing the Pope's temporal as well as
his spiritual authority. The following passage from
La Patrie, recently pubUshed, shows the feeUng
prevalent in Paris on this subject.
"Tous les catholiques feliciteront le gouvernement de
I'attitude qu'U vient de prendre vis-a-vis le pape Pie IX. ;
mais U faut bien se convaincre que I'autorifcl spirifcuelle
du Saint-Siege ne peut 4tre separ6e de son autorite tem-
porelle ; proteger I'une sans proteger I'aufcre, ce ne serait
pas comprendre la nature et l'6tendue des devoirs a remplir
envers la papaute."
The Italians, unless they seek the intervention of
other nations, should bs aUowed to settie their own
q3

342 DOWNFAL OF THE PAPACY.
form of government. If, to the wonder of mankind,
the system which, longer than any monarchy in
Europe, maintained Its sway, has fallen. Its ruin has
not been caused by the assaults of enemies, but by
the hands which should have been raised to protect
and preserve it. The human causes which led to this
extraordinary event have been long operating on the
mind of Italy. All must contemplate the catastrophe
with seriousness and awe ; while some may perceive
in the destruction of the Papacy the hand which
maketh all things to work together for good.

NOTE, referring to Oliap. XXV. p. 335.
In reference to what is written of the Jesuits, in this chapter, a
somewhat singular criticism was pronounced on the author, namely,
that he did not seem to see that the conduct of men must be judged
according to the pkinciples they profess ; and, again, it is asserted
that the author advocated the persecution of Jesuits. I deny that I
advocated the persecution of Jesuits, or of any other body of men.
That the persons or property of individual Jesuits should be in the
slightest degree interfered with, I should regret ; while, on the other
hand, I should rejoice if their system were broken up, and their
practices suppressed, in all Eoman CathoUc countries. May we not
judge of the principles of the Jesuits ) Or is it because the Pope or
the Jesuits may act up to the principles they profess, that we are not
at Uberty to inquire whether these very principles are consistent with
religion, humanity, liberty, or reason ? Must we applaud the Jesuits
because they have ever been the zealous and obedient sons of Eome ?
Is that to justify the principles of the Jesuits, in the eyes ofa sincere
Protestant, when he must know that these principles would have
prompted the conscientious Jesuit to have extirpated the Eeformed
Faith, and every branch ofthe Eeformed Church from the face of the
earth 'i—Note to 2d Edition.

APPENDIX.

A JOUENAL OF THE WEATHEE IN EOME,
From 1st November to Isl May, during the years 1845-6, and 1846-7.

1845. Nov. 1. Dull day.
S. Ditto.
3. Eain part of the day. East wind.
4. Kain all day and night.
5. Splendid day.
6. Ditto. Cloudy sunset.
7. Cloudy day. (Sirocco.)
8. Thunder-storm and deluge of rain.
More thaUv half the average
quantity of rain for the year fell,
it was said, on this day.
9. Sirocco. Air very hazy. Heavy
clouds.
10. Heavy rain in the morning. Cloudy
afterwards. Moonlight.
11. Beautiful day.
12. Ditto.
13. Fine morning. Cloudy evening.
14. Ditto. FuU moon.
15. Thunder storm before daybreat.
Heavy showers all day.
16. Heavy showers; intervals of bright
sunshine. Splendid sunset.
17. Very fine moming. Showeryaftem.
18. Ihnnder and lightning. Showers.
Wet night.
19. Splendid day. Fresh.
20. Cold and cloudy.
31. Eain at intervius.
23. Showery moming. Thunder-storm.
Fine evening.
23. Beautiful moming until 1 p.m.
Heavy rain afterwards.
24. Ene day. Clouds and sunshine.
25. Splendid day. (Tramontana.) Cold.
26. Ditto ditto ditto.
27. Ditto ditto.
28. Ditto ditto.
29. Ditto ditto. New moon.
30. Fine day. Cloudy afternoon.
Dec. 1. A soft lovely day.
2. Ditto.
3. Ditto. (Sirocco.) A little evening
rain.

1845.
Dec. i. Some rain. (Tramontana.)
5. Splendid day. Fresh. Ene sunset.
6. Some rain after mid-day.
7. Ene day. (Sirocco.)
8. Thunder-storm and heavy rain.
9. Splendid day. Too warm.
10. llain all day.
11. Splendid day. (Tramontana.) Cold
evening.
13. Heavy showers all day. Kne even
ing. (Tramontana.)
13. Splendid day. Cold.
14. Ditto Very cold. FuU moon.
15. Ditto ditto. Thermometer
32i at 10 A.M.
16. Ene day. Mild.
17. Beautiful day.
18. DuU and rainy. (Sirocco.)
19. Ene day with clouds, but damp.
20. DuU day vrith little sunshine. A
little rain.
21. Heavy showers aU day.
22. Ditto ditto, with hail and sleet.
23. Eain all day. Gusts of wind. Thun
der and lightning.
24. DuU and cloudy. A little rain.
Evening fine. (Tramontana.)
25. Splendid day.
26. Ditto. Warm in the sun.
27. Fine day.
28. Splendid day. Hard frost.
29. Ditto. Mild.
30. Ditto.
31. Ditto.
1846.
Jan, 1. Very fine day. Cloudy evening.
3. Ditto ditto.
3. Ditto. Much vrind.
4. Splendid day. Cold wind.
5. Ditto.
6. Ditto.
7. Ditto.
8. Ditto.
9. Ditto.

344

APPENDIX.

1846.
Jan,10.. Splendid day.
11, Ditto.
12. Ditto.
13. Ditto.
14. Fine, but cloudy. Mild.
15. Ene. More sunshine.
16. Ditto.
17. Ditto. Heavy rain at night.
18. Enin untU 10 A.M. Fine day
afterwards.
19. Splendid day.
20. Fine day. A little cloudy.
21. Mist in the morning. Fine fore
noon. Damp evening.
22. A little rain. Ene afterwards.
23. A fine day. Mild.
24. Ditto ditto.
25. Beautiful day. Very warm.
26. Damp. Very mild.
27. WonderftiUy fine day. . Balmy air.
28. Ditto ditto. Colder.
29. Very fine. A few clouds.
30. Beautiful day fi-om 12. (Tra
montana.)
31. Splendid day. Cool.
Feb. 1. Bright morning. Cloudy evening.
2. Thick fog in the morning. Fine
bright day.
3. Splendid day. Quite mild.
4. Ditto ditto.
5. Kne, but cloudy. Very mild.
6. Ditto ditto.
7. Splendid day. (Tramontana.)
8. Very flne.
9. Clouds, with sunshine.
10. Very, fine day. (Tramontana.)
11. DuU, cold morning. Mid-day,
sunny. Jlain at night.
12. Bpautit'ul day.
13. Splendid day — fi:esh.
14. Ditto.
15. Ditto.
16. Fine uutU 3 p.m. Damp after
wards.
17. A little drizzUng rain. Fine even

ing.
IS. Finemorniug,
19. Splendid day.
20. Splendid day.
21. Ditto.
33. Ditto.
23. Ditto.
24. Ditto.

Cli)udy afternoon.
(Tramontana )

1846.
Feb.25. Splendid day. (Sirocco).
20. Morning cloudy. Lovely after
noon and evening. New moon.
37. Very fine day.
38. Ditto.

1. Splendid day.
2. Ditto.
3. Bitto.
4. Ditto.
5. Ditto.
6. Rain until 2 p.m. Ene afternoon.
7. Fine day.
S. Rain great part of the day and
night.
9. Eain aU day.
10. Rain great part of the d.ny.
11. Splendid day — fresh.
13. Ditto ditto.
13. Ditto ditto.
14. Splendid day. Much milder.
15. DuU day. Mild.
16. Splendid day. Quite warm.
17. Cloudy day, but flne.
18. Ditto. Thunder storm in the
evening.
19. Fine, but cloudy.
30. DuU day.
21. Ditto.
32. Fine day.
33. DuU sirocco day. Very calra.
34. Splendid day.
35. Magniflcent day. Beautiful star
light nigbt.
36. Morning.cloudy. Rain from 3 p.m.
37. Dull day. Ene evening.
28. DaU, heavy dav. Bright afternoouj
39. Ditto.
30. Splendid day.
31. DuU day.

1. Beautiful day.
3. Splendid day, and warm.
3. Very fine.
4. Ditto (Sirocco).
5. Ditto ditto.
6. Ditto ditto
7. DuU, with little sunshine.
8. Ditto (Sirocco.)
9. Ditto. Strong wind .ind showery
in the evening.
10. Splendid day — fresh.
11. Ditto. FuU moon.

APPENDIX. 345

1846.

1846.

April

Nov.

12. Splendid day.

37. Fine day. Rain during night.
38. Dry and stormy.

13. Ditto.

14. Ditto.

39. Ene day.

15. DuU. (Sirocco.)

30. Ditto.

16. Fine day — rather duU.

17. Beautiful day.

Dec.

18. Cloudy morning. Rain all day

1. Beautiful warm day.

afterwards.

3. Ditto.

19. Rain from mid-day.

3. MUd day. A Uttle rain.

20. Splendid day. Fresh air.

4. A flne day.

31. Fine but cloudy. Heavy rain for

5. Ditto.

an hour.

6. Ditto.

22. Wet moming. Sunny and fine

7. Thunder and great rain.

afterwards.

8. Much rain aU day.

33. Fiue, but cloudy day.

9. Ene. Eome inundated. Boats

24. Beautiful day. A little rain in

in the Corso, Piazza del Popolo,

the evening.

four feet under water.

25. Fine day. Clouds, with vrind.

10. Much rain. Streets stiU flooded.

26. Splendid day, and warm.
37. Heavy sirocco day.

11. Dry. Ditto ditto.

13. Heavy rain aU day.

28. Splendid day.

13. Snow.

29. Ditto.

14. Ditto.

30. Ditto.

15. Hard frost.

16. A duU dry day. Much snow in

May

the night.

1. Splendid day.

17. Fine. Roofs oovered with snow.

2. Ditto.

Night, fi-eezing.

18. Ditto. Much rain.

Nov.

19. Ene, but thawing.

1. Very fine day.

30. Very cold and flne. Frost.

a. Ditto.

21. Much rain.

3. Ditto. Very warm.

33. Rain aU day.

4. Ditto. Ditto.

23. Not very flne.

5. Ene day.

34. Soft day. A Uttle rain.

6. Bain all day.

25. A flne day.

7. Fine day.

26. Gloomy day.
37. Rain all day.

8. Ditto. One shower.

9. Ditto.

38. Ene day. Cold.

10. Eain aU day.

39. A lovely day.

11. Beautiful day.

30. Rain aU day.

12. Very bright day.

31. Rain.

13. Ditto.

14. Ditto.
1847.
15. Ditto.
Jan.
16. A lovely day, but cold.
1. Eain aU day.
17. Ditto, ditto.
3. A fine day. Rain in the night.
18. Ditto, ditto.
3. Rain early. Dry but gloomy day.
19. Fine day, and soft.
4. A very fine day.
20. Lovely soft day.
5. Dittx).
31-. Ene, but gloomy.
6. Ditto.
22. Rain aU day.
7. Much rain during the day.
33. Fine day.
8. A fine but duU day.
24. Ditto and fi-esh.
9. A bright lovely day.
25. Soft fine day.
10. Ene, but cold.
26. Rain aU day.
11. Ditto.
346

APPENDlSt.

1847.Jan. 13. Ene, but cold.
13. Ditto.
14. Very dull day, but dry.
15. A fine day.
16. Ditto.
17. Ditto.
18. Ditto. Air soft.
19. Ditto, ditto.
20. Ditto.
21, Ditto.
23. Ditto.
23. A lovely day.
24. Ditto.
25. Much rain.
26. A very duU day. A little rain iu
the evening.
27. A lovely bright day.
38. Dry, but gloomy.
29. Di-y day. Wind. Rain at nigh*.
30. A cheerless day.
31. Rain.
Feb. 1. Much rain. Very cold.
2. Rain all day.
3. Ditto.
4. Very fine day.
5. Rain aU day and uight.
6. Much rain.
7. A changeable day.
8. A fine day. Eain at night.
9. Stormy and cloudy.
10. Very stormy and dry. Severeniglit.
11. A very fine day.
12. Changeable day. Very cold.
13. A bitter cold day, but very fine and
bright.
14. Ditto ditto.
15. Heavy rain aU day.
16. A very fine day. ¦'"""¦
17. Ditto.
18. Ditto, warm.
19. A lovely summer day.
20. Ditto.
31. Ditto.
32» A fine day.
23. A litde rain.
24. A fine hut cold day.
25. A tolerable day, vrith a Uttle
snow.
26. A dull day with rain.
27. A very fine day, but intensely
cold. i_
28. A continued and heavy faU of

2 P.M. 61.

58.

48.

43.

1847. «";"¦•
March 2 p.m.
1. A disagreeable wet day.
2. A fine dry cold day.
3. A bitter day. A little rain.
4. A very cold day. Dry and
cloudy. 48.
5. Continued rain aU day.
6. Ditto.
7. A heavy faU of rain. 49.
8. Ditto. 47.
9. A rainy day. 48.
10. A fine dav. 53.
11. Rain. " 50.
13. Very fiue day. 50.
13. A lovelv day. 50.
14. Bright,"but cold. 50.
15. Very cold aud dry. 49.
16. A very fine day. 54.
17. A lovely day. 54.
18. Ditto. Warm.
19. A very lovely day, like sum
mer. 63.
30. Ditto ditto. 62.
31. Ditto ditto. 63.
22. Rain aU day. 61.
33. A fine day. 62.
24. A most lovely day. 64.
25, A bright summer day. 65.
26. Ditto ditto. 67.
37. Ditto ditto. 67.
28. Ditto ditto 66.
29. A fine day. Splendid niglit. 68.
30. Dry, but very windy. 66.
31. A fine day. 73.

1. A lovely day. 73.
3. A warm fine day. 73.
3. Very stormy and dry. 68.
4. A bitter cold day. bhower of
hail. 59.,
5. A cold dry day. 59.
6. A flue day. 63.
7. Ditto.
8. Ditto.
9. Dry, but a dull day.
10. A very hot sultry day.
JI. A lovely day.
13. A very fine day.
13. Ditto.
14. Ditto. Some wind.
15. Some rain and wind.
16. Eain all day.
17. A violent storm.

R. OLAY, PRINTER, BREAD STREET HILL.

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ID