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SPAIN IN THE WEST A SERIES OF ORIGINAL DOCUMENTS FROM FOREIGN ARCHIVES VOLUME III Passage par terre Ala Californie De.-,,„„,,,t/<.,r le Re,,.P,-rc ¦¦ E u set e -Franco 15 Kino J/sulfa HI °" 1 '•>" von ,„'.„ U, Kouvellx \ Ml,...,,, ,',-.,f/- ,W, ,.¦„,,..,„¦.<,.'„:„ l?*y| Earliest Print of Kino's Map of Pimeria Alta, 1705 KINO'S HISTORICAL MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA A CONTEMPORARY ACCOUNT OF THE BEGINNINGS OF CALI FORNIA, SONORA, AND ARIZONA, BY FATHER EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J., PIONEER MISSIONARY EXPLORER, CARTOGRAPHER, AND RANCHMAN 1683-I7I I PUBLISHED FOR THE FIRST TIME FROM THE ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT IN THE ARCHIVES OF MEXICO; TRANSLATED INTO ENGLISH, EDITED AND ANNOTATED, BY HERBERT EUGENE BOLTON, Ph.D. PROFESSOR OF AMERICAN HISTORY AND CURATOR OF THE BANCROFT LIBRARY, UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA VOLUME I THE ARTHUR H. CLARK COMPANY CLEVELAND: 1919 COPYRIGHT, I 9 19, BY HERBERT E. BOLTON CONTENTS Preface 21 Introduction 27 TABLE OF CONTENTS AND BRIEF COMPENDIUM OF THIS HISTORY OR TREATISE UPON THE CELESTIAL FAVORS EXPERIENCED IN THE NEW CONVERSIONS OF THIS UNKNOWN NORTH AMERICA* Dedicatory to His Royal Majesty, Philip V, in Thanks giving for his new Royal Cedula which so greatly favors these new conversions, and which is the mo tive for Writing this Treatise 85 Prologue to the charitable Reader; that these New Conquests and New Conversions are to such an ex tent due to the Celestial Favors of Our Lord that they cannot be attributed to human forces . . 97 Part I. New spiritual and temporal Conquests in Pimeria, of the Kingdom of Nueva Biscaya, during the Suspension of the Enterprise of the Conquest and Con version of California: and the Events of the twelve Years from 1687 to 1699 Book I. First Entry into Pimeria, in Nueva Biscaya, and the Beginnings of its spiritual and temporal Conquest, and of its Conversion to our Holy Catholic Faith .... 105 Chapter I. Because of the Suspension of the Conquest and Conversion of California, two Alms are asked and ob tained from the Royal Treasury for two Missionary Fa thers for this Coast and Mainland nearest to California. a In the original manuscript this Table of Contents is placed after the text, and occupies fourteen unnumbered pages, written in double columns. The last page bears the signature of Father Kino. It will be noted that the Table of Contents is not an exact copy of the headings distributed throughout the text, although the variations are unimportant in the main. In one or two places the numbering of the chapters in the original manuscript was in consistent. This defect has been rectified by the editor, and certain other minor liberties have been taken. CONTENTS [VoL Chapter II. Royal Provision and Royal Cedula which favor the new Conversions. Chapter III. My Arrival at these Missions of Sonora, and my first Entry into this Pimeria with the Father Visitor, Maunel Gonzales. Chapter IV. Expedition to San Ygnacio de Caborica, San Joseph de Ios Ymeres, and Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Re- medios. Chapter V. First Opposition experienced in this new Con version. Chapter VI. Second Opposition and Discords Sown in this Pimeria. Chapter VII. The Father Visitor, Manuel Gonzales, visits the three new Pueblos of this Pimeria, for which four other Missionary Fathers are asked and obtained. Book II. Visit and Triennium of the Father Visitor Juan Maria Salvatierra, 1690, 1691, 1692 117 Chapter I. The new Father Visitor, Juan Maria Salvati erra, comes to visit the four Fathers of this Pimeria in their new districts. Chapter II. During this Visitation the Sobaipuris and other Natives come from the North to meet us. Chapter III. Report of the Condition of this Pimeria by the Father Visitor to the Father Provincial, Ambrosio Oddon, and the Reply of the Father Provincial. Chapter IV. Journey northward of more than sixty Leagues to the Sobaipuris. Chapter V. Expedition or Mission westward to the Nation of El Soba, even to the Sea of California, until California itself was seen. Chapter VI. Dedication of the new Church of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. Chapter VII. Second and third Expeditions to the Sea of California. Chapter VIII. Expedition or Mission to the North and Northwest for more than one hundred Leagues, as far as to the Rio Grande and the Casa Grande, and the Discovery of the two new Nations, the Opa and the Coco-Maricopa. Book III. Arrival of the Venerable Father Francisco Xavier one] CONTENTS Saeta at these new Conversions ; his Apostolic Fervor, Work, Zeal, and Holy Letters; his Glorious, Innocent Death . 130 Chapter I. Expedition of the Venerable Father Francisco Xavier Saeta to his new Mission of Nuestra Sefiora de la Consepcion del Cavorca. Chapter II. First Holy Fervor and Zeal, and one of the Holy Letters of the Venerable Father Francisco Xavier Saeta. Chapter III. The Venerable Father goes out to seek Alms for his new Mission and for the Building of his new Church. Chapter IV. Third very tender Letter of the Venerable Father Francisco Xavier Saeta, in which his more than paternal Affection for his Children is shown. Chapter V. The Venerable Father returns to his Mission and in another Letter declares the very good conduct of his Children. Chapter VI. Two other Letters in which the Venerable Father declares his laudable Desire to go to California also. Chapter VII. Letter in which the Venerable Father refuses to leave La Consepcion, in order to stay and obtain the Crown of Martyrdom in Holy Week. Chapter VIII. Last Letter of most tender Farewell from the Venerable Father. Chapter IX. Concerning three other Murders committed . 0 . in San Pedro del Tubutama. Chapter X. Happy Death of the Venerable Father Fran cisco Xavier Saeta and of his four Servants, and the Plun dering of his House. Chapter XI. Expedition of the Garrison of this Province of Senora to punish the Malefactors and to remove the Body of the Venerable Father. Chapter XII. Second Expedition of the Garrison, and new and greater Disturbance than before. Chapter XIII. Third Expedition with three Garrisons of One Hundred and sixty b men and with many friendly Indians from Everywhere, even from Hyaqui. b The text reads "one hundred and fifty." IO CONTENTS [Vol. Book IV. General Peace-agreements of this Pimeria, and Let ters of various Persons who prophesy and promise Great Fruits from the Innocent and Happy Death of the Venerable Father Francisco Xavier Saeta x4° Chapter I. The very Catholic Peace-agreements of this Pi meria. Chapter II. Sundry Letters of principal persons, who prog nosticate and promise very copious spiritual and temporal Fruits in the most constant Conversion of many Souls. Chapter III. Other Letters from other prominent Fathers who promise and assure the same blessed and copious Fruit. Chapter IV. Other Letters from three Lieutenants of this Pimeria in regard to the Blessed Death of the Venerable Father Francisco Xavier Saeta. Chapter V. Another Letter citing the Universal Example of the other new Conversions, which likewise began with the Shedding of the Blood of their Ministers. Chapter VI. Prophecies of the Venerable Father Francisco Xavier Saeta himself, of his glorious and greatly desired Martyrdom. Book V. My Journey to Mexico and my Return to the Mis sions ; Visitation of the Father Visitor, Oracio Police ; various entries to the North, the West, and the Northwest; Discov ery and Reduction of new Nations 158 Chapter I. My Journey to Mexico to obtain missionary Fathers for this Pimeria. Chapter II. My Departure from Mexico and Arrival at these Missions of the Pimeria. Chapter III. New and old and very violent Contradictions and Opposition which hindered the Coming of the mis sionary Fathers to this Pimeria. Chapter IV. Various Entries to the Northeast by Order of the Father Visitor, Oracio Police ; and the Delivery of the District of Cocospera to Father Pedro Ruis de Con- treras. Chapter V. The principal Captains and Governors of this Pimeria go to Santa Maria de Baceraca to see the Father Visitor and ask for Fathers, a Journey of more than one one] CONTENTS n hundred and then of more than one hundred and fifty Leagues. (Chapter VI. Great and peaceful Entry of twenty-two Sol- v — diej-s to the Rio Grande and the last Sobaipuris. Chapter VII. Arrival at the Rio Grande and Casa Grande and the Return to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, having Travelled in Going and Returning more than two hun dred and seventy Leagues in Pimeria. Chapter VIII. Another Entry to the West with a Father and the Senor Lieutenant of this Pimeria. Chapter IX. The hostile Jocomes and Xanos attack Co- cospera and burn the Church and the Father's House. I Book VI. Victory of the Pimas over the Enemies of this Prov ince of Sonora, the Jocomes, Sumas, Mansos, and Apaches . 178 Chapter I. The hostile Jocomes and Janos attack the~1 Rancheria of Santa Cruz de Quiburi. • Chapter II. Captain Coro with his Pimas comes to the Rescue, and they kill more than three hundred hostile Jocomes, Sumas, Mansos, and Apaches. Chapter III. The Reports of this Victory were well re ceived in all Parts, and in the Real de San Juan with Ringing of Bells. Chapter IV. Another great Expedition to the Coast of the Sea of California, in which are discovered and reduced more than four thousand new Pima Indians, who give us four hundred and thirty-five Infants to baptize. Chapter V. Opinions and Reports received in regard to the above-mentioned happy Entry. Chapter VI. Another great Entry, in which are Discovered more than eighty Leagues of new Lands and new Peo ples: from the Rio Grande the Rio Azul is sighted: de tailed Information is obtained in regard to the very pop ulous and very large Rio Colorado near-by; and the new Yuma Nation is reduced. Book VII. Visitation by the Father Visitor Anttonio Leal, and new Journeys of his Reverence to the Pimeria, to the North, Northwest, and West 200 Chapter I. First paternal Letters of Father Visitor An ttonio Leal with a View to encourage these new Conver sions of this Pimeria. 12 CONTENTS [Vol- Chapter II. First News of the Reduction of the Apaches nearest the Rio Colorado. Chapter III. Journey or Mission of the Father Visitor Antonio Leal through the Pimeria to the Sobaipuris of the North, and to the northwest and the west Coasts, two hundred and forty Leagues in Going and Returning, from October 24 to November 28, 1699. In the Course of it twenty-three Baptisms are performed and about seven thousand Souls are seen and counted. Chapter IV. Return of the Father Visitor Antonio Leal from the Interior by the northwestern and western Coasts. Zhapter V. Expedition of Captain Coro's Pimas Sobaipuris against the Enemies of this Province, in Company with the Garrison ; and the good Fortune which they had. Book VIII. Of the great Fruit, spiritual and temporal, which at small Cost to his royal Majesty (God preserve him) can be garnered among the surrounding Nations of all this North America ......... 212 Chapter I. Of this North America, in general almost un known. Chapter II. Of the neighboring great California. Chapter III. Father Juan Maria Salvatierra, availing him self of the Alms of the Faithful, crosses over from Hyaqui to the Conversion of California in 1697. Chapter IV. Various Voyages and Expeditions which have been made to California since the Beginning of the Con quest of New Spain. Chapter V. Other recent information in Regard to the present State of California, derived from the Letters which Father Juan Maria Salvatierra writes to the Father Vis itor Anttonio Leal on September 2, and to me on October 17, 1699. Part II. New Expeditions of more than 200 Leagues, and the discovery of new nations, large vol- umed Rivers, and the Land Passage to California in thirty-two Degrees Book I. Of the Measures, Dispositions, and Expeditions which in the Year 1699 are made in order to discover the Land Route to California ........ 227 Chapter I. Letters of the principal Superiors, and the very one] CONTENTS 13 Catholic Royal Cedula, which inspire the Writing of this second Part of the Celestial Favors. Chapter II. In various Expeditions Reports of the Passage by Land to California are obtained. Chapter III. Diary of the Expedition to the North in Order to discover a Road and Route by Land to California, as many Persons desire, write about, and request. Chapter IV. At San Francisco Xavier del Bac of the Sobaipuris I called the principal Governors and Captains from more than forty Leagues around to find out whether the blue Shells came from any other Region than the opposite Coast of California. Chapter V. Letters which reach me from the Soldiers who meantime had come into the Pimeria from Cucurpe, to San Ygnacio and to Tubutama. ' Chapter VI. My Return to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, and my Desire and Attempt to live and establish a Mis sion at San Francisco Xavier del Bac, in order to be XT ¦ ^ nearer to so many new Nations. Chapter VII. Expedition of one hundred and seventy Leagues to the North and Northwest in Search of the Land Route to California; and the Discovery of the very large, pop ulous, and fertile Rio Colorado (which is the true Rio del Norte), and of its new Nations. Chapter VIII. We descend the Rio Grande, to the West, and after a Journey of fifty Leagues reach the Yuma Nation, Discover four new Nations, and sight the Cali- fornias. Chapter IX. Having seen that the Gulf of California did not extend to thirty-two Degrees,0 when we set out on the Return to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores the many Na tives from farther along call us and cause us to return, and we go on to the large Rio Colorado. Chapter X. We take leave of the many People of the Rio Colorado, or Rio del Norte, and return by the other Route, through San Marcelo. Chapter XI. Setting out from San Marcelo, after a Jour- c This figure records Kino's final conclusion regarding the latitude of the head of the Gulf. The text, written several years earlier, reads "thirty-five degrees.'' H CONTENTS _J_J± ney of fifty Leagues we arrive at Nuestra Sefiora de la Concepcion del Caborca, and after fifty more at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. Chapter XII. Letters which the Fathers of the Company, as well as others, secular Gentlemen, write me, having heard the News of the above-related Expedition and Dis covery. Chapter XIII. Letter of the Father Rector Juan Maria de Salvatierra, to whom in the Months preceding I had written of the very great Probability of the Land route to California. Chapter XIV. About seven hundred Beeves and other Cat tle are collected and herded in these Missions of Sonora, and taken to Matape and Hyaqui for California. Book II. Expedition or Mission with the Father Rector, Juan Maria de Salvatierra, to the Head of the Sea of California, at thirty-one Degrees of Latitude; Hostilities of the Apaches on these Frontiers of Sonora. Good State of the New Con versions of this extensive Pimeria and of its neighboring new Nations .......... 265 Chapter I. The coming of the Father Rector Juan Maria de Salvatierra from the Mission of Nuestra Sefiora de Loreto, California, to these Missions of Hyaqui, Sonora, and of this Pimeria, to go by Land to said California. /Chapter II. The Coming of the hostile Apaches to these / Frontiers of Sonora, with so many Hostilities, Robberies, \. and Murders, that it seemed that it was going to prevent X. our Expedition to the Land Passage to California. Chapter III. These Hostilities of the Apaches are attri buted, although very falsely, to the Pimas; and the In nocence of this Pimeria is clearly shown and declared. Chapter IV. The Father Rector, Juan Maria de Salvatier ra, comes to this Mission or Pueblo of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, and we undertake the Expedition to the Passage by Land to California. His Reverence sets out westward for San Ygnacio, and after a Journey of fifty Leagues arrives at Nuestra Sefiora de la Consepcion. Chapter V. My Departure from Nuestra Sefiora de Los Dolores, to overtake Father Rector Juan Maria de Sal- one] CONTENTS 15 vatierra, drawn from the Diary of this Journey to the Land Passage to California. Chapter VI. Having performed thirty-three solemn Bap tisms at La Consepcion, after going fifty Leagues along the Coast of the Sea of California we arrive at the Ranch- eria and Ranch of San Marzelo del Sonoidag. Chapter VII. Setting out from San Marzelo del Sonoidag to the Westward, after a Journey of thirty-four Leagues d we arrive at the Head of the Sea of California at thirty- one Degrees Latitude. Chapter VIII. On Account of finding a Sand-dune more than sixty Leagues around, situated at the Head of the Sea of California, and because our Pack-animals were growing tired, we returned, having twice sighted Cali fornia. Chapter IX. Setting out from San Marzelo, after a fifty- three Leagues' Journey we arrived at San Francisco Xavier del Bac of the Sobaipuris. The Kindness and good Con dition of the Natives. Chapter X. Setting out from San Xavier del Bac, after travelling sixty Leagues we arrive at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores; Letters from the royal Justices and military Leaders which we receive on the Way in regard to the happy Victory of these Pimas over the Enemies of this Province of Sonora. Chapter XI. Various other Letters from the different Mis sionary Fathers, both in regard to the above-mentioned Journey to the Land-Passage to California, and in regard to the Victory of these Pimas over the Enemies of this Province of Sonora. Chapter XII. Letters from other secular Gentlemen and Ministers of his royal Majesty in regard to this Journey and the Passage to California, and in regard to this Vic tory of the Pimas. Chapter XIII. Four new Missionary Fathers enter this Pimeria. Book III. Of my Expedition of two hundred Leagues to the Quiquima Nation of California Alta and to the very large, a Thirty-five leagues in the text. 1 6 CONTENTS [V"oL very fertile, and very populous Rio Colorado, which is the real and true Rio Del Norte, 1701, and this Journey, going and coming, was of more than 400 Leagues . • • 3<>5 Chapter I. Letter of the Father Rector, Juan Maria de Salvatierra, in regard to this Expedition, which I receive when on the Point of Mounting my Horse to undertake it. Chapter II. My Departure from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores for the Quiquimas of California, who are two hundred Leagues distant, with twelve Servants, and my Arrival at San Marzelo, a Journey of more than ninety Leagues. Chapter III. We set out from San Marzelo, and after a sixty Leagues' Journey we arrive at the Yumas, and at San Dionicio at the Confluence of the Rio Grande de Hila and the large Rio Colorado, or Rio del Norte. Chapter IV. Setting out from San Dionisio, and from the Confluence of the Rivers, we arrive at the Quiquima Na tion of California Alta. Chapter V. I cross the very large-volumed Rio Colorado or Rio del Norte, on a Raft, with a Servant, and pene trate to the westward three Leagues, through many Rancherias and through very fertile and pleasant Cham paigns. Chapter VI. Having seen the Land Passage to California, we turn back for Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. They give us Infants to baptize, and we arrive in Safety at San Marzelo. Chapter VII. After Returning, Accounts of this Expedition are given to various Persons, in particular to the Father Visitor, Anttonio Leal, in the following Letter. Chapter VIII. Letter from the three Father Rectors in Reply to the News in my Letters. Book IV. Of the new Discovery of the evident and very patent Passage by Land to California in 32 Degrees of north Lati tude; and that California is not an Island but a Peninsula; and the Discovery of the very large-volumed and very pop ulous Colorado River, which is the true Rio del Norte of the Ancients ••••..... ?2Q Chapter I. Doubts and Controversies which for so many Years have existed in regard to whether California is one] CONTENTS 17 continental, or Terra Firma, continuous with this New Spain. Chapter II. The Expedition of two hundred Leagues is undertaken with Father Rector Manuel Gonzales to the Quiquimas from the fifth of February to the middle of April, 1702. After the first ninety Leagues' Journey we arrive at San Marzelo del Sonoidag, and later at the mouth of the very large and very populous Rio Colorado, or Rio del Norte. Chapter III. Setting out from San Marzelo del Sonoidag, after more than sixty Leagues' Journey we arrive at the very large Rio Colorado of the Yuma Nation. Chapter IV. Setting out from San Dionicio and the Con fluence of the Rivers Colorado and Rio Grande, after fifty Leagues' Journey to the Southwest (between South and West) we arrived at the Quiquima and Cutgana Nations, and at the Mouth of the above-mentioned Rivers. Chapter V. Having gone beyond and left the Sea of Cali fornia to the eastward, after having entered about twenty- five Leagues farther than in the preceding Journeys in land we turn back to our Mission and the Province of Sonora; and after going one hundred and eleven Leagues we arrive at San Marzelo. Chapter VI. Leaving San Marzelo, after about seventy Leagues' Journey we arrive at the new Pueblo of El Tu- butama; and the only Misfortune which we suffered. Chapter VII. Many other Things relating to this Journey inland were drawn from the long Letter which I wrote to the Father Visitor. Chapter VIII. Cogent Reasons and clear Arguments which establish the Certainty of the Land Passage to California. Chapter IX. Letters from important Personages in Regard to these new Conversions, which I received on my Return from this Journey inland. Chapter X. Means for these new Conversions and for the total Reduction of this North America, which hitherto has been unknown. Chapter XI. Advantages which may result from these new Conversions to the Benefit of all this unknown North America. 1 8 CONTENTS Chapter XII. Certificate of the Sefior Alcalde Mayor, Juan Matheo Manje, in Regard to the Letter and Report of four Sheets to the Father Visitor, Anttonio Leal; and in Regard to the Journey inland and the Land Passage to Cal ifornia. Chapter XIII. Other Letters from different Persons in Re gard to this Journey inland and to the Land Passage to California. Book V. The Coming of Indians from remote Parts with Messages from very distant Rancherias bordering on Cali fornia Alta and living on the Land Passage to it, all of whom ask for Fathers and Holy Baptism. Efforts are made to go to negotiate and solicit the Coming of the necessary Fathers . 370 Chapter I. The Governor of San Marcelo, with other Jus tices, comes ninety Leagues' Journey to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores with Crosses to solicit fathers for his People and for the Yuma and Quiquima People. Chapter II. Happy Death of a recently baptized Indian. Chapter III. Of two other Journeys inland which I made to the West and North, looking to the spiritual and tem poral Welfare of the poor Natives. Chapter IV. Letters from the Father Visitor and from the Sefior Alcalde Mayor in regard to the State of this Pi meria. Chapter V. There is Discussion of my going to Mexico to obtain and bring Fathers for these Harvests of Souls, so extensive and so ripe, in this Pimeria and in other neigh boring Nations. Chapter VI. Others, and I also, are of the Opinion, par ticularly because neither the new Government nor the Mission of European Fathers has arrived, that my Going to Mexico is not necessary.8 Chapter VII. The Building of two good spacious Churches in the second and third Pueblos of my Administration in this Pimeria. eThe manuscript contains a heading, just preceding this, for which there is no corresponding chapter in the text It reads "Chapter VI. Many others think it very desirable that I go to Mexico to obtain fathers." It has been omitted by the editor and the numbering adjusted to that of the text. ILLUSTRATIONS Earliest Print of Kino's Map of Pimeria Alta, 1705 Frontispiece Two prints of the famous map, evidently from the same plate, appeared in the same year. One was in the Mimoire de Tre- voux (May, 1705), p. 746, from which the print shown here is copied, and the other in Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses (V. Recueil, authorized January 17, 1705). The Spanish original of the map has never been printed. The assertion frequently made that Kino's map was published in 1701 is an error. Plan of the Settlement at San Bruno, 1683 facing page 40 Drawn by Father Kino and hitherto unpublished. Transmitted by the viceroy, March 26, 1685. A. G. I. 1-1-3/21. Torres Lanzas, No. 77. Map of the Part of Lower California where Atondo and Kino labored, 1683- 1685 49 Drawn by Father Kino, 1683. Transmitted to the King by the Viceroy, March 26, 1685, A. G. I. 1-1-3/21. Original 38 x 54 centimeters. Torres Lanzas, No. 76. A Later Version of Kino's Map of Pimeria Alta . 331 Hitherto unpublished. A.G.I., 67-3-39. Original 33 x 40 centimeters. Torres Lanzas, No. 95 ; Lowery, p. 215. Certain data on the map shows it to be a middle or later 18th century reproduction. PREFACE In publishing this great memoir left by Father Kino I am carrying out, after two centuries, a hope expressed in 1705 by Father Tamburini, Father General of the Society of Jesus. Thanking Kino for his heroic work, to the humble missionary in the wilds of the Pacific Slope the dignitary wrote : I heartily rejoice that your Reverence may continue your treatise on those missions entitled Celestial Favors, the first part of which you sent us here. I hope to receive the other two parts which your Reverence promises, and that they may all be approved in Mexico, in order that they may be published. The hope was justified by the merit of the work. Indeed, the rediscovery and the publication of this long lost manuscript, whose very existence has been disputed, puts on a new basis the early history of a large part of our Southwest. The problem of the biographer of Father Kino will be to tell much in little, so many and long continued were his activities. He was great not only as mission ary and church builder, but also as explorer and ranch man. By Kino or directly under his supervision mis sions were founded on both sides of the Sonora-Ari- zona boundary, on the Magdalena, Altar, Sonoita, and Santa Cruz Rivers. The occupation of California by the Jesuits was the direct result of Kino's former resi dence there and of his persistent efforts in its behalf, for it was from Kino that Salvatierra, founder of the permanent California missions, got his inspiration for that work. 22 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol- To Kino is due the credit for first traversing in detail and accurately mapping the whole of Pimeria Alta, the name then applied to southern Arizona and northern Sonora. Considered quantitatively alone, his work of exploration was astounding. During his twenty-four years of residence at the mission of Do lores, between 1687 and 171 1, he made more than fifty journeys inland, an average of more than two per year. These journeys varied from a hundred to nearly a thou sand miles in length. They were all made either on foot or on horseback, chiefly the latter. In the course of them he crossed and recrossed repeatedly and at varying angles all of the two hundred miles of country between the Magdalena and the Gila and the two hun dred and fifty miles between the San Pedro and the Col orado. When he first opened them nearly all his trails were either absolutely untrod by civilized man or had been altogether forgotten. They were made through countries inhabited by unknown tribes who might but fortunately did not offer him personal violence, though they sometimes proved too threatening for the nerve of his companions. One of his routes was over a forbid ding, waterless waste, which has since become the graveyard of scores of travelers who have died of thirst because they lacked Father Kino's pioneering skill. I refer to the Camino del Diablo, or Devil's Highway, from Sonoita to the Gila. In the prosecution of these journeys Kino's energy and hardihood were almost be yond belief. All the foregoing was the work of a man of action, and it was worthy work well done. But Kino also found time to write. Historians have long known and had access to a diary, three "relations," two or three letters, and a famous map, all by Kino, and all important for one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 23 the history of the region where he worked. His map published in 1705 was the first of Pimeria based on actual exploration, and for nearly a century and a half was the principal map of the region in existence. And there has now come to light, discovered by the present writer in the archives of Mexico, this vastly more im portant work- a complete history, written by Kino him self at his little mission of Dolores, covering nearly his whole career in America. It was known to and used by the early Jesuit historians, but has lain forgotten ever since. It is now found to be the source of prac tically all that has been known of the work of Kino and his companions, and to contain much that never has been known before. Kino, therefore, was not only the first great missionary, ranchman, explorer, and geog rapher of Pimeria Alta, but his book was the first and will be for all time the principal history of his region during his quarter century. The original of the manuscript here published was discovered by the editor some eleven years ago, after it had suffered a century and a half of oblivion. It was found in the Archivo General y Publico, at Mexico City, where it comprises nearly the whole of volume 27, Seccion de Misiones. The original contains four hun dred and thirty-three small folio pages of text and a fourteen page table of contents. There is no doubt of its authenticity, for it bears three signatures of Father Kino, which correspond to those in original letters signed by him. More convincing still, it bears certain peculiari ties of Father Kino's orthography, the result of his early education, which can not be mistaken. The manuscript was written at different times over a long period of years, and consequently the handwriting 24 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [VoL changes. The Prologue and Part I are written in uni form ink and hand, which are the same as those of Father Kino's original diary of 1698, also discovered by the writer. Part II to page 214 is written in paler ink, with a coarser pen, and in a slightly different style of hand, which is clearly Father Kino's, nevertheless. From page 215 to page 264 the ink is darker, the hand finer, and more like that of Part I. The corrections in Part I are in the ink and hand of the early portion of Part II, which indicates that when Father Kino wrote Part II he revised Part I. Pages 265-338 are written in two different hands, clearly not Father Kino's, but bear corrections in Kino's hand. The remainder of the manuscript, from page 339 to the end, including the Indice, is again in Father Kino's handwriting. Great care has been taken to secure a faithful copy of Kino's original manuscript, the making of the transcript being personally supervised by the editor himself and Dr. William Edward Dunn. In preparing the manuscript for publication, effort has been made to apply the best rules of critical schol arship. Some liberties, perforce, have been taken. The paragraphing of the original has been retained in most cases, but in a few instances this was impracticable. The placing of the chapter headings, in which there was varied practice in the original, has been unified. Liberties dictated by the requirements of printing have been taken in the matter of placing the marginal head ings. The numerous underscorings of words and pas sages in the original have been disregarded, since it is not certain by whom or under what circumstances they were inserted, and since the omission in no wise affects the meaning of the text. The original has been fol lowed in the matter of accents and in the spelling of one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 25 proper names, but capitalization and punctuation have been modernized. The peculiarities of spelling and the corruptions in Kino's Latin quotations have been retained. The making of the translation has not been the smallest part of the editorial work. Indeed, "mere translation" is lightly regarded only by those who have never seriously tried it. Great care has been taken to make the English version both accurate and readable, an end not always easy of attainment. The translation was made jointly by Miss Elizabeth How ard West and the editor. A preliminary translation of the larger portion of the manuscript was first made by Miss West. With this draft as a base the editor has worked over the entire manuscript numerous times, and is responsible for the final form. The Introduction is not intended as an exhaustive biography of Father Kino, but rather as a preparation for the reading of Kino's personal memoir, which fol lows. It falls into three fairly distinct parts. The early pages are based largely on new materials other than those here published, and may be regarded as a contribution to knowledge, since they for the first time make known the circumstances of Kino's coming to America, and follow his movements, largely unknown hitherto, from that time to his advent in Pimeria Alta. From that point Kino's own memoir gives his career in detail, and in consequence the second part of the Intro duction becomes an interpretation rather than a chron ological narrative of the great missionary's principal life-work. The third portion is a bibliographical ex position and evaluation of Kino's memoir. The foot notes, besides providing the necessary aids for the student and giving supplementary information, call at- a6 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA tention to frequent errors and gaps in the older and the standard modern histories which the publication of Favores Celestiales now enables us to correct or supply. The preparation of this work for publication has been under way for some ten years. Meanwhile pressing duties have intervened and new material has been un covered. It was planned to publish the original Span ish, but owing to uncertainties caused by the Great War, the publishers have deemed this inadvisable. The edi tor has gathered material for another volume or more of letters and diaries by Kino, which he hopes to pub lish later, if the interest in and support for the present volumes make such publication possible. The editor's obligations for assistance are many and deep. The aid rendered by Dr. W. E. Dunn and Miss Elizabeth Howard West has already been mentioned. Dr. Charles Wilson Hackett has given extensive and most valued editorial assistance. The Reverend Fath er D. J. Kavanagh, S.J. of St. Ignatius College, San Francisco, has revised the translation of the scriptural passages. The Reverend Father Thomas Lantry O'Neill, of Newman Hall, Berkeley, has assisted in many matters relating to Catholic practices. The Rev erend Father Th. Pockstaller, S.J., has read all of the proofs, prepared most of the index, and given valuable criticism at many points. Dr. Charles H. Cunningham gave important aid in obtaining materials from the Archives of the Indies. Professors Herbert I. Priest ley and Charles E. Chapman have given frequent counsel. The personal interest in the work manifested by His Grace, the Most Reverend Edward J. Hanna, Archbishop of San Francisco, has been a constant source of inspiration. INTRODUCTION One of the anomalies of historical study just now is the fact that the oldest fields are the newest. Ancient history, once thought to be an exhausted topic, is at present offering the freshest materials and the liveliest interests. Similarly, in the United States, the South west, once the best known and then an almost forgotten portion, is now the subject of a "revival of learning." This section was not only known, but books were writ ten about it in the sixteenth century.1 New Mexico boasts a history in the form of an epic poem, filling a volume, and printed in 1610.2 Several eighteenth cen tury works dealt largely with New Mexico, Arizona, and California. And yet the serious study of the his tory and of the bibliography of historical writings re lating to this region is still in its infancy. Only with extreme difficulty can we of the twentieth century comprehend the spirit which inspired the first pioneers of the Southwest. We can understand why man should struggle to conquer the wilderness for the wealth which it will yield, but almost incomprehen sible to most of us is the sixteenth century ideal which brought to this region its first agents of civilization - the Jesuit and Franciscan missionaries. These men came single minded, imbued with zeal for the saving of souls. Most of them were men of liberal education. 1 For example, Cabeza de Vaca's Naufragios, of which an edition ap peared at Zamora in 1542 and another at Valladolid in 1555. 2 Reference is made to Villagra's Historia de la Nueva Mexico (Alcala, 1610). 28 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol- Many of them were of prominent families, and might have occupied positions of honor and distinction in Europe. KINO COMES TO AMERICA Peer of any of these noble spirited men was Father Kino, Apostle to the Pimas. Eusebio Francisco Kino, as he wrote his name, was born in the Valley of Nons- burg, near Trent, in the Austrian Province of Tyrol, on August io, 1644. it: 1S an interesting coincidence that his birth was in the same year that his intimate friend, disciple, and fellow worker, Juan Maria Salva tierra, was born at Milan.3 It has generally been as sumed that Kino's name was originally Kiihn, but German scholars themselves claim otherwise. Som- mervogel, whose Bibliotheque has the nature of an official publication, asserts that the name was Chino, as was affirmed to Father Melandri in 1870 by a member of the Chino family. This view is borne out by several contemporary letters published in German in Stock- lein's Neue Welt-Bott, where the name is given as Chinus and Chino. While in New Spain the Jesuit himself usually wrote his name Kino, and Spaniards sometimes spelled it Quino,4 to preserve the hard sound of the ch, no doubt. In point of nationality Kino is typical of a large class of the early Jesuit missionaries in Arizona, Sonora, and California. That is, although he was in the service of Spain, he was non-Spanish by blood and breeding. Among Kino's companions and successors, for example, 3 Sommervogel, Bibliotheque de la Compagnie de Jesus, premiere partie, vol. iv, 1044; Clavigero, Historia de la Baja California, 39; Beristain, Bib- lioteca Hispano-Americana, 1819. Bancroft, North Mexican States and Tex as (vol. i, 250, footnote), inexactly gives the date as "about 1640." 4 Sommervogel, ibid., vol. iv, 1044; Stoclclein, Der Neue Welt-Bott mit allerhand Nachrichten dern Missionariorum Soe. Jesu, erster band (Augsburg and Gratz, 1726). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 29 we find Steiger, Keler, Sedelmayr, and Grashofer, whose names disclose their German origin; Goiii, Sal vatierra, Picolo, and Ripaldini, bearing in their names the marks of their Italian extraction; and Januske and Lostinski, whose surnames stamp them as Bohemians. Though his name was Italian in form, Kino's birth, education, and early associations were altogether Ger man. His early education was acquired at Ala, in Tyrol, and later he studied in the universities of Ingol- stadt and Freiburg. One of his teachers at the latter place whose instruction was long remembered and treasured was Father Adam Aygentler, author of a world map. Another of his instructors was Father Henry Scherer, author of the Hierarchical Geography* published at Munich in 1703, in which some of Kino's writings on California were incorporated. The primary facts of Kino's entry into the Company of Jesus are set forth in the following extract from the original manuscript Libro de Pt'ofesiones of the Prov ince of Mexico: "Native of Trent, born August 10, 1644; entered the Company in the Novitiate of Lans- perga [Landsberg], of the Province of Upper Ger many, Nov. 20, 1665; he made his vows; he finished his studies, made his third probation, and has taught grammar three years." 6 Had he chosen to do so Kino might have enjoyed an honorable position, and perhaps even won fame in Eu rope, for during his student career at Freiburg and 5 Scherer, P. Henrico. Geographia Hierarchica sive Status Ecclesiastici Romano-Catholici per Orbem Vniversum Distributi Succincta Descriptio Historico-Geographica. Authore P. Henrico Scherer, Societatis Jesu. Sump- tibus Joannis Caspari Bencard, Bibliopolae Academiae Dilinganae. Mon- achii, Typis Mariae Magdalens Rauchin, Viduas. Anno MDCCIII. 40 pp. 8 n.n. 257, ind. di pp. 11, n.n. con antiporta. 6 Beristain, Biblioteca Hispano Americana Septentrional, Adiciones y Cor- recciones (1898), 392. 30 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Ingolstadt he greatly distinguished himself in math ematics. In 1676, when the Duke of Bavaria and his father, the Elector, went from the electoral court at Munich to Ingolstadt, they engaged Kino in a discus sion of mathematical sciences, with the result that he was offered a professorship in the University of Ingol stadt. But he preferred to become a missionary to heathen lands. To this, perhaps, he was inclined by family tradition, for he was a relative of Father Mar tini, famous missionary in the East and author of many works on China. The decision to become a missionary was made when Kino was twenty-five, as the result of a serious illness. In his Favores Celestiales he tells us that "To the most glorious and most pious thaumaturgus and Apostle of the Indies, San Francisco Xavier, we all owe very much. I owe him first my life, which I was caused to despair of by the physicians in the city of Hala, of Tirol, in the year 1669; second, my entry into the Com pany of Jesus; and third, my coming to these mis sions."7 Another mark of Kino's gratitude for his re covery was the addition of Francisco to his name. He had hoped to go to the Far East, literally to fol low in the footsteps of his patron, but in 1678 there came a call for missionaries in New Spain, and thither he was sent instead. The exact date of Kino's arrival in Mexico has been a subject of conjecture and even of error by secondary writers, 1678, 1680, and 1681 being variously given. It will be seen below that the last date is the correct one.8 7 See volume i, 96-97. The date of his novitiate was 1665. Kino gives the date of his illness as 1669. In view of the great ease with which the figures 5 and 9 of the seventeenth century Spanish manuscripts became interchanged in transcribing, I suspect that the dates are one and the same, and that his becoming a Jesuit followed his illness. 8 Thwaites {Jesuit Relations, vol. lxviii, 333], gives the date 1678; Ban- one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 31 The circumstances of Kino's journey to America can be gleaned from Stocklein's Neue Welt-Bott, a valuable but a much neglected source for American history.9 In that work is published a letter to his father by Adam Gerstle, a Jesuit missionary who came to the New World in the same mission with Father Kino. From Sommer vogel we learn that Kino set out for America in April, 1678. From Father Gerstle's letter we learn that he and eighteen others, including Father Kino, left Genoa on June 12, on two Genoese vessels. The band included Father Carolus Calvanese and Franciscus Borgia, Ital ians; Theophilus de Angelis, a Welshman; Andreas Mancker, Carolus Borango, and Adam Gerstle, Austri ans; Joannes Tilpe, Joannes Strobach, Josephus Neu man, Mathias Cuculinus, Paulus Klein, Wenceslaus Christman, and Brother Simon Poruhradiski, Bohemi ans; Joannes Ratkay, Hungarian; Thomas Revell, Netherlander; Mathias Fischer (country not named) ; Antonius Kerschbaumer and Eusebius Franciscus Chi- nus, Tyrolese. The vessels reached Alicante on the twenty-fifth of June. Early in the voyage they had experienced a heavy storm, and when near port were becalmed for several days. On the way they passed numerous vessels, and as each hove in sight they prepared to give it battle, but all proved to be friendly. From Alicante the com panions went to Seville, which they reached too late to take passage in the fleet sailing to the West Indies.10 Father Gerstle's letter gives a very graphic account croft {North Mexican States, vol. i, 251], gives it 1680 or 1681; Beristain [Biblioteca Hispano-Americana], and Sommervogel [Bibliotheque, vol. iv, 1044], say 1680; Ortega [Hist, del Nayarit, 284], correctly gives the date as 1681. 9 Der Neue Welt-Bott mit allerhand Nachrichten dem Missionariorum Soe. Jesu. 10 "Brief P. Adami Gerstl, S. J. an seinem Vatter," Puebla, July 14, 1681, in Stocklein, Neue Welt-Bott, Theil i, num. 31. 32 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [VoL of some phases of Seville life. He was especially inter ested in the monopoly of industry and commerce by the Dutch and the French, of the latter of whom forty thousand lived in Seville; in the amazing number of clergy and monastic houses there; in the prevalence of poverty and the multitude of beggars, of whom the archbishop regularly fed twenty-two thousand out of his income; in the crude skill of the blood-letters, at whose hands one of the nineteen, Father Fischer, suc cumbed; in the depreciation of silver on the arrival of a treasure fleet from America; in the crude methods of public execution, and the premature burials; and in the bull fights, in which the nobles participated and on which the Church frowned. The delay in Spain was unexpectedly long. In 1679 some royal ships sailed for America, but as they went by the African coast to get slaves the Jesuits did not embark. Some private vessels also sailed, but their charge for the passage was higher than the Father Pro curator was willing to pay, consequently they awaited the departure of the next royal fleet for the West Indies. Late in March (the twenty-fifth) Gerstle and his companions returned to Cadiz, and on the eleventh of July the West Indian fleet sailed, convoyed by two armed galleons. But the vessel on which the eighteen Jesuits embarked foundered on a rock shortly after sail ing, and they returned the same night to Cadiz on a small boat, the Tartana. The Father Procurator now bent every energy to get passage on one of the other ves sels, and hurried back and forth between the port au thorities and the admiral of the fleet. About two o'clock the next morning the sleeping band of Jesuits, now increased by two or three, were awakened by the Procurator, put on board a boat, and taken to the fleet, one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 33 already outside the harbor. The first vessel overhauled consented to take Fathers Calvanese and Borgia; the second refused to take any; on the third embarked Fathers Tilpe and Mancker; on the fourth Father Borango and Father Zarzola, superior of the mission ; on the fifth Fathers De Angelis and Ratkay; on the sixth Fathers Strobach and Neuman. Brother Poru- hradiski, who had remained on the wrecked vessel with the Jesuits' baggage, also managed to find passage on the same ship with the superior. But twelve were left behind, among them being Fathers Cuculinus, Klein, Christman, Kerschbaumer, Chinus (Kino), Revell, and Gerstle." It is this enumeration by Father Gerstle that gives us our clue to Father Kino's movements. Father Gerstle and seven companions now returned to Seville to wait, and to minister during an epidemic. Father Kino evidently remained at Cadiz, where he observed the great comet which was visible there between December and February. Meanwhile the Father Procurator conducted a lawsuit to recover six thousand dollars paid in advance for passage in the wrecked vessel. On January 16, 1681, Father Gerstle and his com panions again left Seville for Cadiz, arriving on the eighteenth, and on the twenty-ninth they at last set sail for America. In the West Indies the fleet divided, according to custom, and eight of the eighteen compan ions went to New Granada, the rest continuing to Vera Cruz, which they reached after a rough voyage of over ninety days. The above account is gleaned from the letter written by Father Gerstle at Puebla, on July 14, 168 1. It con- 11 An account of the wreck and of the journey of some of the Fathers to America is given in "Brief Patris Mancker," Mexico, January 25, 1681, in Stocklein, Neue Welt-Bott, Theil i, num. 30, pp. 85-90. 34 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol- firms Father Ortega's statement that Kino arrived in America in 1681, Sommervogel and others to the con trary, notwithstanding. It, in turn, is circumstantially confirmed by the entry in the manuscript Libra de Profesiones of the Province of Mexico, which says of Fathers Kino and Revell : "They came from the Prov ince of Austria and arrived at Veracruz on May 3, 1 68 1."12 The band of devoted Jesuits who had set out from Genoa together were destined to scatter to the ends of the earth. The story of their personal experiences in America and the islands of the western seas occupies large space in the pages of Stocklein's Neue Welt-Bott. As has been stated, eight of the companions were sent to New Granada. Ten came to Mexico, whence some went to the Philippines and others to the Marianas Islands and to China. Fathers Borango, Tilpe, Stro- bach, De Angelis, and Cuculinus went to work among the heathen of the Marianas Islands, Father Tilpe still being there in 1703. Mancker and Klein went to the Philippines and Gerstle to China. Ratkay worked in Sonora, Neuman in Nueva Vizcaya, Kino in Cali fornia, Sonora, and Arizona. Of the four who went to Marianas Islands, three- Borango, Strobach, and De Angelis -won the martyr's crown.13 Father Kino's mathematical knowledge brought him into prominence as soon as he arrived in Mexico, where 12 Beristain, Biblioteca Hispano Americana Septentrional, Adiciones y Correcciones (1898), pp. 392-393. Gerstle says that the voyage lasted ninety- six days, beginning January 29. Counting to May 3 would give only ninety- five days. 13 See Stocklein, "Vorrede des ersten Theils," and missionary letters by Borango (num. 2), Tilpe (num. 3, 64), Strobach (num. 4, num. 5), Cuculinus (num. 7, num. 8), Garzia and Bonani (num. 9), Mancker (num. 12, num. 20), Ratkay (num. 28, num. 29), Gerstle (num. 31), Neuman (num. 32), Gilg (num. 33, num. 35), Klein (num. 37). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, SJ. 35 he at once entered into a public discussion with the famous Jesuit scholar Sigiienza y Gongora, concerning the recent comet. One of the fruits of this discussion was a pamphlet published by Kino in Mexico in 1681 under the title : "Astronomical explanation of the comet which was seen all over the world during the months of November and December, 1680, and in January and February in this year of 1681, and which was observed in the city of Cadiz by Father Francisco Kino, of the Company of Jesus."14 As a result of this debate Kino enjoyed the friendship of Sigiienza y Gongora. This was no small matter, for Sigiienza was a man of great intellect and of wide influ ence. The impression made by Father Kino on Sigiien za was shared by the viceroy, the Marques de la La- guna,15 and this in time led to further recognition. KINO IN CALIFORNIA Father Kino's first important missionary work in America was in Lower California. For two centuries and a half the Spaniards had made weak attempts to subdue and colonize that forbidding land. California ^Exposition Astronomica de el Cometa, que el Ano de 1680, por Ios meses de Noviembre, y Diziembre, y este Ano de 1681, por Ios Meses de Enero y Febrero, se ha visto en todo el mundo, y le ha observado en la Ciudad de Cadiz, El P. Eusebio Francisco Kino de la Compania de Jesus. Con licencia, en Mexico por Francisco Rodriguez Lupercio, 1681, 40 ffnc. 28, 1 carte. This title is taken from Sommervogel [Bibliotheque, vol iv, 1044], who gives also the circumstances of the composition of the work. Bancroft gives the first word of the title as "Explicacion" [North Mexican States and Texas, vol. i, 251], while Beristain gives several other variations from the above form. The title alone proves that Kino arrived in Mexico in i68r. He saw the comet in Cadiz between November, 1680, and February, 1681, and, by implication, only in Cadiz; therefore he could not have reached Mexico while the comet was still visible. 15 For the impression made by Kino on the viceroy, see the letter by Father Neuman, from Sisokitschik, Nueva Vizcaya, July 29, 1686, in Neue Welt-Bott, Theil i, 106. 36 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [VoL had been discovered by one of Cortes's sailors in 1533. Two years later the great conquistador himself led a colony to the Peninsula, then thought to be an island and called Santa Cruz. The enterprise failed, but Cortes continued his explorations, and Ulloa, sent out by him in 1539, rounded the cape and proved Santa Cruz to be a peninsula. Henceforth it was called Cali fornia. Three years later Cabrillo, in quest of the Strait of Anian, that is, the northern passage to the At lantic in which everybody believed, explored the outer coast of California beyond Cape Mendocino. New interest in California followed the conquest of the Philippines by Legazpi ( 1565-1571 ) ; indeed, in the later sixteenth century California was as much an appendage of Manila as of Mexico. . Legazpi's men discovered a practicable return route to America, down the California coast, and thereupon trade, conducted in the Manila galleon, was established between Manila and Acapulco. But the voyage was long, scurvy ex acted heavy tribute of crews and passengers, and a port of call was sorely needed. English pirates, too, like Drake and Cavendish, infested the Pacific, and were followed by the Dutch Pichilingues. California, there fore, must be explored, protected, and peopled. It was with these needs in view that Cermefio in 1595 made his disastrous voyage down the California coast; that Vizcaino in 1597 attempted the settlement of La Paz, and in 1602 explored the outer coast; and that the king in 1606 ordered a settlement made at Monterey. The Monterey project failed, but settlements and missions crept up the Sinaloa coast across the Gulf, and the pearl fisheries of California attracted attention, hence new attempts were made on the Peninsula. Hav- one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 37 ing little cash to spare, the monarchs tried to make pearl fishing rights pay the cost of settlement and de fense. In the course of the seventeenth century, there fore, numerous contracts were made with private ad venturers. By the terms the patentees agreed to people California in return for a monopoly of pearl gathering. With nearly every expedition went missionaries, to con vert and help tame the heathen. In pursuance of these agreements several attempts were made to settle, espe cially at La Paz, where Cortes and Vizcaino both had failed. Other expeditions were fitted out at royal ex pense. The names of Carbonel, Cordova, Ortega, Por ter y Casanate, Pifiadero, and Lucenilla all stand for seventeenth century failures to colonize California. At first the natives of California had been docile, but they had been enslaved and abused by the pearl hunters, against the royal will, and had become suspicious and hostile, as later pioneers learned. Through various misunderstandings and incomplete explorations, in the course of the century California had again come to be regarded as an island. In spite of the repeated failures, another attempt at settlement was decided upon. By an agreement of De cember, 1678, confirmed by a royal cedula of Decem ber 29, 1679, the enterprise was entrusted to Don Isidro Atondo y Antillon, governor of Sinaloa, who was now given the title of Admiral of the kingdom of the Cali- fornias.18 The spiritual ministry, so important a part of every Spanish conquest, was assigned to the Jesuits, by agreement with the Father Provincial, Bernardo Pardo. 16 Venegas, Notitia, vol. i, 219; Autos sobre Ios Parages que ha descu- bierto en las Yslas Californias el Almirante don Ysidro de Atondo, in El Virey de la Nueva Espaiia da euenta, etc., A.G.I., 1-1-2/31. 38 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [VoL In the midst of Atondo's preparations Father Kino arrived in Mexico (in May, 1681), and was named, with Father Matias Goni, missionary to California. Again Kino's mathematical learning was given recogni tion, for the viceroy made him royal cosmographer, that is, astronomer, surveyor, and map maker, of the expedition. Before leaving Mexico Kino prepared himself for his scientific task by studying California geography, borrowing maps for the purpose from the viceroy's palace and taking them to the Colegio Max imo of San Pedro y San Pablo to copy.17 It was expected that the expedition would sail in the fall of 1 68 1, and before the end of the year Kino left the capital for his new field of labor. On November 15, presumably on his way through Guadalajara, he was made vicar of the Bishop of Nueva Galicia for Cali fornia, Father Goni being made his assistant. As the vessels for the expedition were being built by Atondo at Pueblo de Nio, near Villa de Sinaloa, thither Kino made his way, and there we find him in March, 1682.18 Kino now became involved, innocently, in a dispute over ecclesiastical jurisdiction in California between the bishops of Guadalajara and Durango.19 Having already a commission as vicar of the former, because of the dispute, it would seem, he applied for arid secured 17 See page 334. Venegas, Notitia, vol. i, 219, conveys the im pression that the royal cedula of December 29, 1679, named Kino cos mographer, but he is not mentioned in that document [Baja California Cedulas, Ms., Bancroft Library, 74]. The selection of the missionaries was doubtless made by the Provincial Father Pardo [Alegre, Hist., vol. iii, 42-43]. See also Clavigero, 36; Documenios para la Historia de Mexico, cuarta serie, vol. v, n-12; Bancroft, North Mexican States, vol. i, 186-187. 18 These movements of Father Kino between his arrival in Mexico and his departure for California, hitherto unknown, are revealed by a manuscript expediente entitled Sobre pertenencia del Govierno Espiritual de Calif ornias, A.G.I., 67-4-2. 19 Expediente sobre pertenencia; Alegre, Hist., vol. iii, 27-28. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 39 a similar commission from the latter.20 This may or may not be the reason why Father Antonio Suarez was now made superior of the California mission, but so he was. Incident to the contest, Father Kino was ordered by the Bishop of Guadalajara to relinquish his com mission from the rival bishop, and the question was ter minated by the viceroy in favor of Guadalajara. By December 5 the vessels had left Sinaloa and were at Chacala, taking on supplies, and Fathers Suarez, Kino, and Goni were there ready to embark. For some rea son not given Father Suarez did not go to California, however, and Kino went as superior.21 At last, on January 17, 1683, the expedition sailed. The voyage was difficult, the crew raw, and the vessels were driven into the harbor at Mazatlan. Two months after setting sail they entered the Sinaloa River,22 well north of their objective point. From here they re traced their course, crossed the Gulf, and reached the coast near La Paz, already the site of so many failures. During the voyage the launch was lost and never reached port.23 On April 1 anchor was cast and a formal proclama tion issued requiring good treatment of the Indians and regulating the gathering of precious metals and pearls, the two primary interests of the expedition. Next 20 His application was made at Pueblo de Nio, March 25, 1682. Expe diente sobre pertenencia. 21 Bancroft {North Mexican States, vol. i, 187] states that Father Goni did not go with this expedition. This is a mistake, it being Father Copart and not Goni who went later. 22 March 18. 23 "A Descent made by the Spaniards, in the Island of California," in Lockman, Travels of the Jesuits, vol. i, 408-420. For other forms of this narrative see Bancroft, North Mexican States, vol. i, 187, footnote 24. Some doubt was expressed as to whether or not this was the old Bay of La Paz (ibid., 410). It was at any rate clearly the one now so-called. 40 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA day a site was selected and a cross erected near a fine grove of palm trees and a good spring of water. On the fifth all disembarked with the royal standard, a salute was fired, three vivas were shouted for Charles II, and the admiral took possession for the king, calling the province Santisima Trinidad de la California. At the same time Fathers Kino and Goni took ecclesiasti cal possession.24 A small fort was begun at once, and a log church and huts were erected. Sending the Concepcion to the Rio Yaqui for supplies, Atondo and Kino made minor ex plorations. The Indians near the settlement, though shy at first, soon became friendly, and Fathers Kino and Goni began to study their language. The Guay- curos, toward the south, and enemies of the former, were hostile on the other hand, and by July i a state of war existed. The soldiers were now panic stricken, and clamored to abandon the settlement. "It is plain," says Father Venegas, that Atondo "had with him few like those courageous and hardened men who at an earlier day had subdued America." Since the Concepcion had not returned, and supplies were consequently short, Atondo yielded, and on July 14 the San Jose weighed anchor, with all the Spaniards on board. Atondo now went to the Sinaloa coast to refit, in order to make a new attempt farther up the California coast, where more promising lands and Indians had been reported. Setting sail again, on October 6 he landed with the missionaries and men at a bay called San Bruno, a few leagues north of La Paz. Here a new 24 The formal act of possession by Atondo is preserved for us in Alegre, Hist., vol. iii, 43-45 ; that by Kino and Goni is contained in Sobre pertenen cia. Kino and Goni both signed acts of possession. The dates given above are from the acts of possession, there being some discrepancy in the account given in Lockman. f>zo *1SwMHH rw SwZH> HCO > 2;Gdpo Czo co r '• 3SH H o i* w W ' / tffc =0 « i? r ¦•- EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, SJ. 43 settlement was begun, the San Jose being sent for sup plies and recruits and with dispatches for the viceroy.25 The routine of life at San Bruno from December 21, 1683, to May 8, 1684, can be gleaned from the detailed diary kept by Father Kino and preserved to us in the original in the archives of Mexico.26 It begins with an account of an exploration by Father Kino and Ensign Contreras into the Sierra Giganta, to the west. The principal occupations at the little outpost of civilization were those connected with providing food, shelter, pro tection, and the conversion of the natives. The docile Indians labored willingly in building the fort, the houses, and the church, and brought such supplies as the sterile land afforded. Father Kino's diary gives us a perfect picture of a true missionary, devoted heart and soul to the one ob ject of converting and civilizing the natives, and for whom no task was too mean and no incident too trivial if it contributed to his main end. He was like the artist, or the true scholar, much of whose labor would be unbearable drudgery to one not inspired with the zeal of a devotee. Kino regarded the poor natives as his personal wards. He loved them with a real affection, and he ever stood ready to minister to their bodily wants, or to defend them against false charges or harsh treatment. He dwelt with affection on all evidence of friendship shown by the Indians, and recorded every indication of their intelligence. He took sincere delight in instruct ing them, and in satisfying their childish curiosity re- 25 Venegas, Notitia, vol. i, 222-230; Autos sobre Ios Parages. 26 Tercera Entrada en 21 de Diciembre de 1683 (printed in Documentos para la Historia de Mexico, cuarta serie, vol. i, 405-458). Original manu script in the archives of Mexico. The details are filled in by the Autos sobre Ios Parages. 44 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. garding such things as the compass, the sun dial, the lens with which he started fires, and the meaning of the symbols used in his maps. The first task of the missionary was to win the confi dence of the natives, and the direct way to their hearts was through their stomachs. Whenever a visit was made to an outlying rancheria, therefore, gifts of maize, pinole, and other eatables were carried for all natives who might be encountered. When strangers came from a distance they, too, were given presents. Confidence hav ing been secured, the Indians would leave their boys with the missionaries, whose house was usually crowded with them over night. Thus was afforded a means of teaching them the Spanish language, and the rudimen tary uses of clothing, and to recite the prayers, sing, and perform domestic duties. It was with the young that Kino was especially concerned, and whenever he made an excursion he was usually followed by a troop of Indian boys running by his side, trying to keep up, or crying if left behind. Often one or more urchins might be seen triumphantly mounted behind the Father on the haunches of his horse. Kino tells with zest how a young boy who was living at the mission resisted the efforts of his parents to take him away, calling for help on "Padre Eusebio." Nothing gave Father Kino such true pleasure as some sign that an Indian was becoming interested in the Faith.27 He dwells at length and with evident delight on the story of a little native girl who knelt before a picture of the Virgin and begged permission to hold the Christ Child; on the progress made by his charges in repeating the prayers, singing the salve, and reciting the 27 On the other hand he showed little interest in the tribal customs, which so engaged the attention of many missionaries. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 45 litanies; and on their zeal in helping to decorate the crude church for the celebration of the feast days. Sometimes, as was true of all missionaries among the heathen, his ingenuity was put to the test to explain Christian concepts in the simple Indian language. A classic example is his own story of how he explained the Resurrection by reviving some apparently lifeless flies. When the astonished Indians shouted Ibimu huegite they had given the Father the native term for which he had been seeking. On August 10 the San Jose at last returned, bringing twenty additional soldiers, supplies, and dispatches from the viceroy. At this time Father Juan Bautista Copart also came, and on August 15 Father Kino made final profession within the Jesuit Order in Father Co- part's hands. An extended exploration across the moun tains was now projected, and during the autumn the San Jose plied to and from the Yaqui River, bringing horses, mules, and supplies. On the first expedition, made between August 29 and September 25, Father Kino accompanied Captain Andres, and secured aid from the mainland missions, particularly from Father Cer vantes at Torin. Bancroft conjectures that Kino "prob ably remained in Sonora a year," but such was by no means the case.28 On a subsequent trip Kino's place was taken by Father Goni. While the San Jose was making her supply voyages a new post and mission were established a few leagues inland from San Bruno at the fine springs of San Isidro. The expedition over the mountains was planned for December, but when it was ready to start some of the soldiers opposed it. The year had been one of extreme 28 North Mexican States, vol. i, 251. Bancroft's whole treatment of the subject here is hazy and inaccurate. Kino returned with Andres on Sept. 25. 46 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. drought, both in California and on the mainland, and there was a serious lack of supplies. Both the Concep cion and the launch had failed to appear, and the safety of the settlers depended on one small vessel, which was now about to leave for Mexico. The clamors of the faint-hearted, however, merely served to bring out that optimism which was one of Kino's strongest qualities, and in his letters to the viceroy he discounts the dismal prophesies of the malcontents. The San Jose sailed on December 14, bearing Father Copart, whose stay in California was therefore short, and on that day Atondo was at San Isidro ready to start on his expedition on the morrow, accompanied by Father Kino, twenty-nine soldiers and Indian guides, and taking eighty mules and horses. This expedition apparently did not succeed, but either it or another did, for Father Kino tells us that in 1685 he, with Atondo, crossed the mountains to the South Sea, in latitude twenty-six degrees, where he saw certain blue shells, which fifteen years later became an important factor in his further movements. Meanwhile the complaints of the soldiers grew stronger, and the tide of discontent could not be stemmed even by Father Kino's optimism. A council was held, and on May 7 Atondo, his men, and the missionaries again abandoned their settlement.29 For the remainder of the story of this enterprise we have hitherto been dependent chiefly upon Father Venegas's history, but we now have access to a file of contemporary letters by Fathers Kino and Goni30 which give us more exact information. On May 8 Atondo and Father Goni, in, a bilander, set sail for 29 For the above events see Autos sobre Ios Parages que ha discubierta. 30 No. 30. El Obispo da quenta del estado en que esta la conquista de las Yslas Californias. A.G.I. 67-3-28. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 47 the port of San Ignacio, Sinaloa, to refit for a pearl gathering expedition to California. A few hours later Captain Guzman and Father Kino, in the Concepcion, steered for the Yaqui River, to refit for an expedition to explore the California coast in search of a better site further north. Equipping his launch, Atondo, with Father Goni, recrossed the Gulf, and spent the greater part of August and September in pearl hunting, but with very slender results. By September 22 he had returned to San Ignacio.31 Landing at the Yaqui River mouth on May 11, Guz man and Kino went with their party to recuperate at the mission of Father Cervantes at Torin, and on the nineteenth Kino went on to visit the Father Rector, Diego de Marquina, at the mission of Raun. At these missions supplies were gathered, and in June Guzman and Kino sailed up the Gulf to the Seris coast. At Sal- sipuedes Father Kino spent three days with the natives, who begged him to remain among them, promising him horses, provisions, and aid in building a mis sion. This visit had a direct connection with Father Kino's advent later in Pimeria Alta. On the way down the Gulf they explored the California coast for a short distance above San Bruno, where they stopped late in August,32 finding the country now green, after the long drought, and the Indians anxious for their return. En countering the admiral engaged in pearl fishing, on September 7 they again lost sight of him, and, being short of provisions, they sailed to Matanchel, arriving 31 Father Goni to the Bishop of Guadalajara, on board the bilander, at San Ignacio, September 22, 1685, manuscript in No. 30. Venegas {Notitia, vol. i, 236] makes it appear that the settlement of San Bruno was removed by Atondo during this voyage, but from the contemporary correspondence it is clear that this is a mistake. It had already been abandoned in May. 32 The twenty-eighth. Guzman, Kino, and seven or eight soldiers landed. 48 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol- on September 17, and finding the San Jose there and well equipped for California, but with its captain dead. From Matanchel Father Kino went to Guadalajara, where on October 10 he wrote to the Bishop a long re port, and made a fervent appeal for California. Having returned to San Ignacio in September, Aton do received a despatch from the viceroy ordering him to maintain the California settlements already undertaken. But as the Concepcion had gone to Matanchel with the soldiers and Father Kino, Atondo could do nothing but follow them thither. On the last day of October Kino left Guadalajara to return to Matanchel and join Atondo. Just outside Compostela he met the admiral on his way to Mexico. When Kino reached Matanchel on November 12, he learned that by a despatch of October 31, predicated on the assumption that California had been abandoned, and that the fleet was without occupation, Atondo was ordered to go to meet the Manila galleon, warn it against Dutch pirates, and escort it to Acapulco. This news was most depressing to Father Kino, and again he addressed to the Bishop of Guadalajara an appeal for California.33 Atondo also returned to Matanchel, and on Novem ber 29 he and Kino sailed in the fleet to meet the gal leon. Falling in with it next day, they convoyed it safely to Acapulco. Thence they proceeded to Mexico, where Father Kino lodged at the Casa Profesa. Early in February the viceroy held a council, before which reports on California by Atondo and Kino were read. It being concluded that California could not be subdued 33 Father Kino to the Bishop of Guadalajara,, Colegio de Guadalajara, October io, 1685. Kino to the Bishop of Guadalajara, Matanchel, November 15, 1685. Kino to the Bishop of Guadalajara, Compostela, November 5, 1685, in No. 30. El Obispo da quenta. SVR. ~t^V^7r*g--'| BB rc^r- f-lit -r^n E3g| ^t Map of the Part of Lower California where Atondo and Kino labored, 1683-1685 one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 49 by the methods hitherto attempted, it was decided to relinquish the task to the Jesuits, with an annual sub sidy from the crown, and on April 11 Kino and Atondo were requested to report the amount needed. But the vice-provincial, Father Marras, rejected the offer, on the ground that the Order did not wish to undertake the burden of temporal administration. It was now decided, therefore, to furnish Atondo the thirty thou sand dollars a year which he and Kino had reported nec essary. A new expedition was thus about to be under taken by these two veterans, when an urgent request for half a million dollars came from Spain, together with an order, dated December 22, 1685, to suspend the con quest of California because of the recent revolt of the Tarahumares.34 Thus was the California enterprise put aside, to be revived twelve years later by Kino and Salvatierra. KINO IN PIMERIA ALTA At this point Father Kino takes up in detail the story of his career in America in his Favores Celestiales, which is printed hereinafter, and the remainder of this sketch will therefore be brief.35 As soon as he learned that the conversion of California had been suspended, he asked and obtained permission to go to the Guaymas and Seris, with whom he had dealt during his voyages from California to the mainland. Leaving Mexico City on November 20, 1686, he went to Guadalajara, 34 Kino to the Bishop of Guadalajara, Casa Profesa, February 15, 1686; Venegas, Notitia, vol. i, 236-240; real cedula, December 22, 1685, A.G.I. 67-3-28. Transcript in Bancroft Library. According to a dispatch from the Audiencia of Guadalajara, April 27, 1702, the abandonment of California cost Father Copart his reason, which at that date he had not recovered. A.G.I. 67-3-28. Transcript in Bancroft Library. 35 Since this section is based largely on the Favores Celestiales, printed hereinafter, numerous specific references will not be given. 5o MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA where he secured special privileges from the Audiencia. Setting forth again on December 16, he reached Sonora early in 1687, and was assigned, not to the Guaymas as he had hoped, but to Pimeria Alta, instead. Pimeria Alta included what is now northern Sonora and southern Arizona. It extended from the Altar River, in Sonora, to the Gila, and from the San Pedro River to the Gulf of California and the Colorado of the West. At that day it was all included in the prov ince of Nueva Vizcaya; later it was attached to Sonora, to which it belonged until the northern portion was cut off by the Gadsden Purchase. Kino found Pimeria Alta occupied by different divi sions of the Pima nation. Chief of these were the Pima proper, living in the valleys of the Gila and the Salt Rivers, especially in the region now occupied by the Pima Reservation. The valleys of the San Pedro and the Santa Cruz were inhabited by the Sobaipuris, now a practically extinct people, except for the strains of their blood still represented in the Pima and Papago tribes. West of the Sobaipuris, on both sides of the in ternational boundary line, were the Papagos, or the Papabotes, as the early Spaniards called them. On the northwestern border of the region, along the lower Gila and the Colorado Rivers, were the different Yuman tribes, such as the Yumas, the Cocomaricopas, the Co- copas, and the Quiquimas. All of these latter spoke the Yuman language, which was, as it is today, quite distinct from that of the Pima. When Kino made his first explorations down the San Pedro and the Santa Cruz Valleys, he found them each supporting ten or a dozen villages of Sobaipuris, the population of the former aggregating some two thou sand persons, and of the latter some two thousand five EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 51 hundred. The Indians of both valleys were then prac ticing agriculture by irrigation, and raising cotton for clothing, and maize, beans, calabashes, melons, and wheat for food. The Papagos were less advanced than the Pimas and Sobaipuris, but at Sonoita, at least, they were found practicing irrigation by means of ditches. The Yumas raised crops, but apparently without artifi cial irrigation. Much more notable than the irrigation in use at the coming of the Spaniards, were the remains of many miles of aqueducts, and the huge ruins of cities which had long before been abandoned, structures which are now attributed by scientists to the ancestors of the Pimas. Father Kino arrived in Pimeria Alta in March, 1687,36 and began without the loss of a single day a work of exploration, conversion, and mission building that lasted only one year less than a quarter of a century. When he reached the scene of his labors the frontier mission station was at Cucurpe, in the valley of the river now called San Miguel. Cucurpe still exists, a quiet little Mexican pueblo, sleeping under the shadow of the Agua Prieta Mountains, and inhabited by de scendants of the Eudeve Indians who were there when Kino arrived. To the east, in Nueva Vizcaya, were the already important reales, or mining camps, of San Juan and Bacanuche, and to the south were numer ous missions, ranches, and mining towns; but beyond, in Pimeria Alta, all was the untouched and unknown country of the upper Pimas. On the outer edge of this virgin territory, some fif teen miles above Cucurpe, on the San Miguel River, Kino founded the mission of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Do- 36 It may be of interest to note that this was the very month of La Salle's assassination in the wilds of Texas. 52 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol- lores (Our Lady of Sorrows), at the Indian village of Cosari. The site chosen was one of peculiar fitness and beauty. It is a commonplace to say that the mis sionaries always selected the most fertile spots for their missions. This is true, but it is more instructive to give the reason. They ordinarily founded their missions at or near the villages of the Indians for whom they were designed, and these were usually placed at the most fertile spots along the rich valleys of the streams. And so it was with the village of Cosari. Near where Cosari stood, the little San Miguel breaks through a narrow caiion, whose walls rise sev eral hundred feet in height. Above and below the caiion, the river valley broadens out into rich vegas of irrigable bottom lands, half a mile or more in width and several miles in length. On the east, the valley is walled in by the Sierra de Santa Teresa, on the west by the Sierra del Torreon. Closing the lower valley and hiding Cucurpe, stands Cerro Prieto; and cutting off the observer's view toward the north rises the grand and rugged Sierra Azul. At the canon where the river breaks through, the western mesa juts out and forms a cliff, approachable only from the west. On this promontory, protected on three sides from attack, and affording a magnificent view, was placed the mission of Dolores. Here still stand its ruins, in full view of the valley above and below, of the moun tain walls on the east and the west, the north and the south, and within the sound of the rushing cataract of the San Miguel as it courses through the gorge. This meager ruin on the cliff, consisting now of a mere frag ment of an adobe wall and saddening piles of debris, is the most venerable of the many mission remains in all Arizona and northern Sonora, for Our Lady of Sorrows was mother of them all, and for nearly a quarter of a one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 53 century was the home of the remarkable missionary who built them.37 From his outpost at Dolores, during the next quarter century, Kino and his companions pushed the frontier of missionary work and exploration across Pimeria Alta to the Gila and Colorado Rivers. By 1695 Kino had established a chain of missions up and down the valley of the Altar and Magdalena Rivers and another chain northeast of Dolores. In April, 1700, he found ed, within the present state of Arizona, the mission of San Xavier del Bac, and within the next two years those of Tumacacori and Guebavi within the present state of Arizona. Kino's exploring tours were also itinerant missions, and in the course of them he baptized and taught in numerous villages, all up and down the Gila and the lower Colorado, and in all parts of northern Pimeria. Kino's work as missionary was paralleled by his achievement as explorer, and to him is due the credit for the first mapping of Pimeria Alta on the basis of actual exploration. The region had been entered by Fray M'arcos, by Melchior Diaz, and by the main Coronado party, in the period 1539-1541. But these explorers had only passed along its eastern and western borders ; for it is no longer believed that they went down the Santa Cruz. Not since that day- a cen tury and a half before -had Arizona been entered from the south by a single recorded expedition, while, so far as we know, not since 1605, when Oiiate went from Moqui down the Colorado of the West, had any white man seen the Gila River.38 The rediscovery, there- 37 The ruins of the Mission of Dolores are on Rancho de Dolores, on the hill directly overlooking the residence of the owner. They were visited by the writer in 1911. 38 Father Kino is authority for the statement that before his day the Spaniards of New Mexico had traded with the Sobaipuris of the San Pedro Valley. 54 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. fore, and the first interior exploration of Pimeria Alta was the work of Father Kino. Not to count the minor and unrecorded journeys among his widely separated missions, he made at least fourteen expeditions across the line into what is now Arizona. Six of them took him as far as Tumacacori, Benson, San Xavier del Bac, or Tucson. Six carried him to the Gila over five different routes. Twice he reached that stream by way of Santa Cruz, returning once via Casa Grande, Sonoita, the Gulf of California and Caborca. Once he went by way of the San Pedro, once from El Saric across to the Gila below the Big Bend, and three times by way of Sonoita and the Cam- ino del Diablo, along the Gila Range. Two of these expeditions carried him to Yuma and down the Colo rado. Once he crossed that stream into California, and finally he reached its mouth. East and west, between Sonoita and the eastern mis sions, he crossed southern Arizona several times and by several trails. In what is now Sonora he made at least half a dozen recorded journeys from Dolores to Ca borca and the coast, three to the Santa Clara Mountain to view the head of the California Gulf, and two to the coast by then unknown routes south of the Altar River. This enumeration does not include his journey to Mex ico, nor the numerous other trips to distant interior points in what is now Sonora, to see the superior mission authorities. After 1699, aside from his search for souls in the Pimeria, Kino's most absorbing quest was made in search of a land route to California. Since the days of Cortes and Cabrillo many views had been held regard ing the geography of California, some regarding it as a peninsula and others as an island. Kino had been one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, SJ. 55 taught by Father Aygentler, in the University of Ingol stadt, that it was a peninsula, and had come to America firm in this belief ; but in deference to current opinion, and as a result of certain observations of his own, he had given up the notion, and as late as 1698 he wrote of California as "the largest island of the world." But during the journey of 1699 to the Gila occurred an in cident that caused him to turn again to the peninsular theory. It was the gift, when near the Yuma junction, of certain blue shells, such as he had seen in 1685 on the Pacific coast of the Peninsula of California, and there only. If the shells had come to the Yumas from the South Sea, he reasoned, must there not be land connec tion with California and the ocean, by way of the Yuma country? Kino now ceased his work on the boat he was building at Caborca and Dolores for the navigation of the Gulf, and directed his efforts to learning more about the source of the blue shells. For this purpose he made a journey in 1700 to San Xavier del Bac. Thither he called the Indians from all the villages for hundreds of miles around, and in "long talks" at night he learned that only from the South Sea could the blue shells be had. This assurance was the inspiration of his remaining journeys. In the same year, 1700, he for the first time reached the Yuma junction, and learned that he was above the head of the Gulf, which greatly strengthened his belief in the peninsular theory. In the next year he returned to the same point by way of the Camino del Diablo, passed some distance down the Colorado, and crossed over to the California side, towed on a raft by Indians and sitting in a basket. Finally, in 1702, his triumph came, for he again returned to the Yuma junc tion, descended the Colorado to the Gulf, and saw the 56 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. sun rise over its head. He was now satisfied that he had demonstrated the feasibility of a land passage to California and had disproved the idea that California was an island. In estimating these feats of exploration we must re member the meager outfit and the limited aid with which he performed them. He was not supported and encouraged by several hundred horsemen and a great retinue of friendly Indians as were De Soto and Coro- nado. On the contrary, in all but two cases he went almost unaccompanied by military aid, and more than once he went without a single white man. In one ex pedition, made in 1697 t0 tne Gila, he was accompan ied by Lieutenant Manje, Captain Bernal, and twenty- two soldiers. In 1701 he was escorted by Manje and ten soldiers. At other times he had no other military support than Lieutenant Manje or Captain Carrasco. without soldiers. Once Father Gilg, besides Manje, accompanied him; once two priests and two citizens. His last great exploration to the Gila was made with only one other white man in his party, while in 1694, 1700, and 1701 he reached the Gila with no living soul save his Indian servants. But he was usually well sup plied with horses and mules from his own ranches, for he took at different times as many as fifty, sixty, eighty, ninety, one hundred and five, and even one hundred and thirty head. The work which Father Kino did as a ranchman, or stockman, would alone stamp him as an unusual busi ness man, and make him worthy of remembrance. He was easily the cattle king of his day and region. From the small outfit supplied him from the older missions to the east and south, within fifteen years he established the beginnings of ranching in the valleys of the Mag- one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 57 dalena, the Altar, the Santa Cruz, the San Pedro, and the Sonoita. The stock-raising industry of nearly twen ty places on the modern map owes its beginnings on a considerable scale to this indefatigable man. And it must not be supposed that he did this for private gain, for he did not own a single animal. It was to furnish a food supply for the Indians of the missions estab lished and to be established, and to give these missions a basis of economic prosperity and independence. It would be impossible to give a detailed statement of his work of this nature, but some of the exact facts are nec essary to convey the impression. Most of the facts, of course, were unrecorded, but from those available it is learned that stock ranches were established by him or directly under his supervision, at Dolores, Caborca, Tubutama, San Ignacio, Imuris, Magdalena, Quiburi, Tumacacori, Cocospera, San Xavier del Bac, Bacoan- cos, Guebavi, Siboda, Busanic, Sonoita, San Lazaro, Saric, Santa Barbara, and Santa Eulalia. Characteristic of Kino's economic efforts are those reflected in Father Saeta's letter thanking him for the present of one hundred and fifteen head of cattle and as many sheep for the beginnings of a ranch at Caborca. In 1699 a ranch was established at Sonoita for the triple purpose of supplying the little mission there, furnish ing food for the missionaries of California, if perchance they should reach that point, and as a base of supplies for the explorations which Kino hoped to undertake and did undertake to the Yumas and Cocomaricopas, of whom he had heard while on the Gila. In 1700, when the mission of San Xavier was founded, Kino rounded up the fourteen hundred head of cattle on the ranch of his own mission of Dolores, divided them into two equal droves, and sent one of them under his Indian 58 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [VoL overseer to Bac, where the necessary corrals were con structed. Not only his own missions but those of sterile Cali fornia must be supplied; and in the year 1700 Kino took from his own ranches seven hundred cattle and sent them to Salvatierra, across the Gulf, at Loreto, a transaction which was several times repeated. And it must not be forgotten that Kino conducted this cattle industry with Indian labor, almost without the aid of a single white man. An illustration of his method and of his difficulties is found in the fact that the important ranch at Tumacacori, Arizona, was founded with cattle and sheep driven, at Kino's orders one hundred miles across the country from Caborca, by the very Indians who had murdered Father Saeta at Caborca in 1695. There was always the danger that the mission Indians would revolt and run off the stock, as they did in 1695; and the danger, more imminent, that the hostile Apaches, Janos, and Jocomes would do this damage, and add to it the destruction of life, as experience often proved. Kino's endurance in the saddle was worthy of a seasoned cowboy. This is evident from the bare facts with respect to the long journeys which he made. When he went to the City of Mexico in the fall of 1695, being then at the age of fifty-one, he made the journey in fifty-three days, between November 16 and January 8. The distance, via Guadalajara, is no less than fifteen hundred miles, making his average, not counting the stops which he made at Guadalajara and other impor tant places, nearly thirty miles per day. In November, 1697, when he went to the Gila, he rode about seven hundred or eight hundred miles in thirty days, not counting out the stops. On his journey in 1698 to the one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, SJ. 59 Gila he made an average of twenty-five or more miles a day for twenty-six days, over an unknown country. In 1699 he made the trip to and from the lower Gila, about eight or nine hundred miles, in thirty-five days, an average of ten leagues a day, or twenty-five to thirty miles. In October and November, 1699, he rode two hundred and forty leagues in thirty-nine days. In Sep tember and October, 1700, he rode three hundred and eighty-four leagues, or perhaps one thousand miles, in twenty-six days. This was an average of nearly forty miles a day. In 1701, he made over four hundred leagues, or more than eleven hundred miles, in thirty- five days, an average of over thirty miles a day. He was then nearing the age of sixty. Thus we see that it was customary for Kino to make an average of thirty or more miles a day for weeks or months at a time, when he was on these missionary tours, and out of this time are to be counted the long stops which he made to preach to and baptize the In dians, and to say mass. A special instance of his hard riding is found in the journey which he made in November, 1699, with Fath er Leal, the Visitor of the missions. After twelve days of continuous travel, supervising, baptizing, and preaching up and down the Santa Cruz Valley, going the while at the average rate of twenty-three miles (nine leagues) a day, he left Father Leal at Batki to go home by carriage over a more direct route, while he and Manje sped "a la ligera" to the west and north west, 'to see if there were any sick Indians to baptize. Going thirteen leagues (thirty-three miles) on the eighth, he baptized two infants and two adults at the village of San Rafael. On the ninth he rode nine 60 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. leagues to another village, made a census of four hun dred Indians, preached to them, and continued sixteen more leagues to another village, making nearly sixty miles for the day. On the tenth he made a census of the assembled throng of three hundred persons, preached, baptized three sick persons, distributed pres ents, and then rode thirty-three leagues (some seventy- five miles) over a pass in the mountains to Sonoita, ar riving there in the night, having stopped to make a census of, preach to, and baptize in, two villages on the way. After four hours of sleep, on the eleventh he baptized and preached, and then rode, that day and night, the fifty leagues (or from one hundred to one hundred and twenty- five miles) that lie between Sonoita and Busanic, where he overtook Father Leal. During the last three days he had ridden no less than one hun dred and eight leagues, or from two hundred and fifty to three hundred miles, counting, preaching to, and bap tizing in five villages on the way. And yet he was up next morning, preaching, baptizing, and supervising the butchering of cattle for supplies. Truly this was stren uous work for a man of fifty-five. Another instance of his disregard of toil in minister ing to others may be cited. On the morning of May 3, 1700, he was at Tumacacori, on his way to Dolores, from the founding of Mission San Xavier del Bac. As he was about to say mass at sunrise, he received an ur gent message from Father Campos, begging him to has ten to San Ignacio to help save a poor Indian whom the soldiers had imprisoned and were about to execute on the following day. Stopping to say mass and to write a hurried letter to Captain Escalante, he rode by midnight to Imuris, and arrived at San Ignacio in time to say early mass and to save the Indian from one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 61 death. The direct route by rail from Tumacacori to Imuris is sixty-two miles, and to San Ignacio it is sev enty. If Kino went the then usual route by the Santa Cruz River, he must have ridden seventy-five or more miles on this errand of mercy in considerably less than a day. Kino's physical courage is attested by his whole ca reer in America, spent in exploring unknown wilds and laboring among untamed savages. But it is especially shown by several particular episodes in his life. In March and April, 1695, tne Pimas of the Altar Valley rose in revolt. At Caborca Father Saeta was killed and became the proto-martyr of Pimeria Alta. At Cabor ca and Tubutama seven servants of the mission were slain, and at Caborca, Tubutama, Imuris, San Ignacio and Magdalena-the whole length of the Altar and Magdalena Valleys -the mission churches and other buildings were burned and the stock killed or stamped ed. The missionary of Tubutama fled over the moun tains to Cucurpe. San Ignacio being attacked by three hundred warriors, Father Campos fled to the same refuge, guarded on each side by two soldiers. At Do lores Father Kino, Lieutenant Manje, and three citi zens of Bacanuche awaited the onslaught. An Indian who had been stationed on the mountains, seeing the smoke at San "Ignacio, fled to Dolores with the news that Father Campos and all the soldiers had been killed. Manje sped to Opodepe to get aid; the three citizens hurried home to Bacanuche, and Kino was left alone. When Manje returned next day, together they hid the treasures of the church in a cave, but in spite of the soldier's entreaties that they should flee, Kino insisted on returning to the mission to await death, which they did. It is indicative of the modesty of this great soul 62 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. that in his own history this incident in his life is passed over in complete silence. But Manje, who was weak or wise enough to wish to flee, was also generous and brave enough to record the padre's heroism and his own fears. In 1 70 1 Kino made his first exploration down the Colorado below the Yuma junction -the first that had been made for almost a century. With him was one Spaniard, the only other white man in the party. As they left the Yuma country and entered that of the Quiquimas, the Spaniard, Kino tells us in his diary, "on seeing such a great number of new people," and such people -that is, they were giants in size -became frightened and fled, and was seen no more. But the missionary, thus deserted, instead of turning back, de spatched messages that he was safe, continued down the river two days, and crossed the Colorado, towed by the Indians on a raft and sitting in a basket, into territory never before trod by white men since 1540. Perhaps he was in no danger, but the situation had proved too much for the nerve of his white companion, at least. And what kind of a man personally was Father Kino to those who knew him intimately? Was he rugged, coarse fibered, and adapted by nature to such a rough frontier life of exposure? I know of no portrait of him made by sunlight or the brush, but there is, fortu nately, a picture drawn by the pen of his companion during the last eight years of his life, and his successor at Dolores. Father Luis Velarde tells us that Kino was a modest, humble, gentle, ascetic, of mediaeval type, drilled by his religious training to complete self ef- facement. I should not be surprised to find that, like Father Junipero Sierra, he was slight of body as he was gentle of mind. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 63 Velarde says of him: Permit me to add what I observed in the eight years during which I was his companion. His conversation was of the mellifluous names of Jesus and Mary, and of the heathen for whom he was ever offering prayers to God. In saying his breviary he always wept. He was edified by the lives of the saints, whose virtues he preached to us. When he publicly 'reprimanded a sinner he was choleric. But if anyone showed him personal disrespect he controlled his temper to such an ex tent that he made it a habit to exalt whomsoever maltreated him by word, deed, or in writing. . . And if it was to his face that they were said, he embraced the one who spoke them, saying, "You are and ever will be my dearest master!" even though he did not like him. And then, perhaps, he would go and lay the insults at the feet of the Divine Master and the sorrowing Mother, into whose temple he went to pray a hun dred times a day.39 After supper, when he saw us already in bed, he would enter the church, and even though I sat up the whole night reading, I never heard him come out to get the sleep of which he was very sparing. One night I casually saw someone whipping him mercilessly. [That is, as a means of penance] . He always took his food without salt, and with mix tures of herbs which made it more distasteful. No one ever saw in him any vice whatsoever, for the discovery of lands and the conversion of souls had purified him. These, then, are the virtues of Father Kino: he prayed much, and was considered as without vice. He neither smoked nor took snuff, nor wine, nor slept in a bed. He was so austere that he never took wine except to celebrate mass, nor had any other bed than the sweat blankets of his horse for a mattress, and two Indian blankets [for a cover]. He never had more than two coarse shirts, because he gave everything as alms to the Indians. He was merciful to others, but cruel to himself. While violent fevers were lacerating his body, he tried no remedy for six days except to get up to celebrate mass and to go to bed again. And by thus weakening and dismaying nature he con quered the fevers. 3» The allusion is to the name of the mission, Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. 64 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [VoL Is there any wonder that such a man as this could endure the hardships of exploration? Kino died at the age of sixty-seven, at Magdalena, one of the missions he had founded, and his remains are now resting at San Ignacio, another of his establish ments. His companion in his last moments was Father Agustin de Campos, for eighteen years his colaborer and for another eighteen years his survivor, as I recent ly learned from the church records of San Ignacio. Velarde describes his last moments in these terms : Father Kino died in the year 171 1, having spent twenty-four years in glorious labors in this Pimeria, which he entirely cov ered in forty expeditions, made as best they could be made by two or three zealous workers. When he died he was almost seventy years old. He died as he had lived, with extreme hu mility and poverty. In token of this, during his last illness he did not undress. His deathbed, as his bed had always been, con sisted of two calfskins for a mattress, two blankets such as the Indians use for covers, and a pack-saddle for a pillow. Nor did the entreaties of Father Agustin move him to anything else. He died in the house of the Father where he had gone to dedi cate a finely made chapel in his pueblo of Santa Magdalena, con secrated to San Francisco Xavier. . . When he was singing the mass of the dedication he felt indisposed, and it seems that the Holy Apostle, to whom he was ever devoted, was calling him, in order that, being buried in his chapel, he might accom pany him, as we believe, in glory. 39a The words of that eloquent writer, John Fiske, in reference to Las Casas, Protector of the Indians, are not inapplicable to Father Kino. He says: In contemplating such a life all words of eulogy seem weak and frivolous. The historian can only bow in reverent awe before . . . [such] a figure. When now and then in the 39a 1 have seen no confirmation of Father Benz's story that Kino was was killed by rebel Indians. From what is said here it seems altogether improbable. See Catholic Encyclopedia, vol. viii, 660. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, SJ. 65 course of centuries God's providence brings such a life into this world, the memory of it must be cherished by mankind as one of its most precious and sacred possessions. For the thoughts, the words, the deeds of such a man, there is no death. The sphere of their influence goes on widening forever. They bud, they blossom, they bear fruit, from age to age. THE FAVORES CELESTIALES This Introduction, however, is not concerned alone with the history of Father Kino's work, but also with the bibliography of his personal writings relating to his career in America. My investigations in foreign archives have enabled me to improve that bibliogra phy in three directions: (1) By extension, through bringing to light items not hitherto known by modern scholars, or, if known, not known to be extant; (2) by curtailment, through the elimination of titles ascribed to Kino which should be accredited to others;40 and through the identification of titles which have been re garded as distinct but which in fact refer to the same work, and are therefore duplicates; (3) by making known the original manuscripts in cases where former ly only imperfect copies have been available. But within the space at my command it would be impos sible to treat adequately all three of these phases, or even one of them, and I shall therefore devote it chiefly to the discussion of the most important single item of Kino's writings, his lost History, its rediscovery, iden tification, and value as an historical source. 40 The list of Kino writings has been unduly lengthened, for example, by the inclusion, as diaries by Kino, of several separate chapters of Manje's Liz de Tierra Incognita, libro ii, cited below. This has been done in Som- mervogel's Bibliotheque, the catalogue of the British Museum, the catalogue of the Buckingham Smith Collection in the New York Historical Society Library, Quaritch's trade catalogue, Hodge, Handbook of American Indians, vol. ii, 253, and elsewhere. 66 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Early References to a "History" by Kino In the works of the early Jesuit historians who dealt with New Spain there are certain references to an "Historia" (History) or "Relacion" (Relation) by Father Kino which have not been satisfactorily ac counted for by any of the bibliographies of Kino's writ ings which have come to my notice. Thus, in the Pro logue to Venegas's Noticia de la California completed in Mexico in 1739 and published at Madrid in 1757,*°" it is stated by the editor that "Father Venegas, to write his History, had present . . . the Manuscript His tory of the Missions of Sonora by Father Eusebio Fran cisco Kino," etc. Similarly, Alegre, in the Prologue to his Historia de la Compania de Jesus en Nueva Es- pana, which he left incomplete in 1767 at the time of the Jesuit expulsion, mentions as one of his principal sources "the relation of Sonora, by Father Francisco Eusebio Kino." 41 A third Jesuit work, falling chron ologically between the two already cited, mentions a Kino manuscript in such terms as to suggest at once the work referred to by Venegas and Alegre. Allusion is here made to Father Ortega's Apostolicos Afanes, which was completed in Mexico in 1752 and published at Barcelona in 1754.42 Ortega cites, as his main reli- 40a Noticia de la California .... sac ada de la Historia Manuscrita, Formada en Mexico ano de 1739 por el Padre Miguel Venegas, etc. (Madrid, '757)- An English version of this work was published at London in 1759 aa A Natural and Civil History of California, two volumes. 41 "La de Sonora, por el padre Francisco Kino," the antecedent of la being relation. See Historia de la Compania de Jesus en Nueva Espana que estaba escribiendo El P. Francisco Javier Alegre al Tiempo de su Espulsion (Mexico, 1841), vol. i, "Prologo," p. 3. 42 Apostolicos Afanes de la Compania de Jesus Escritos por un Padre de la Misma Sagrada Religion de su Provincia de Mexico. This work was completed in Mexico by Father Joseph Ortega, and published anonymously at Barcelona in 1754. A reprint was published by Manuel de Olaguibel in Mexico in 1887 as Historia del Nayarit, Sonora, Sinaloa y ambas Californias. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 67 ance for his treatment of Kino's career, what he several times calls a "Relacion" (Relation) by Father Kino, and to which he once refers as a legajo (bundle) of Kino's papers "in which his expeditions, undertakings, and discoveries are coordinated." 43 In the foregoing works, it is seen, we have three specific references to a history, or relation, by Kino. The editor of Venegas calls it "the Manuscript History of the Missions of Sonora," Alegre "the relation of Sonora," and Ortega a relation, or papers, "in which his expeditions, undertakings, and discoveries are co ordinated." No such work has been known to modern scholars, I believe, and, so far as I have been able to discover with the resources at my command, the refer ences by Venegas, Ortega, and Alegre are the only ones to a history of Sonora or to a work of that nature made by anyone who claims to have used it, although it is possible that there may be others which have not come to my notice. It will be seen that the latest of these references was made as early as 1767, or nearly a cen tury and a half ago.44 For the identification of the author, see the "Prologo" to the 1887 edition. This edition does not contain the "Prologo y Protesta del Autor" found in the original edition, copies of which are in the library of Santa Clara Col lege, California, and the Bancroft Library at the University of California. For references to the Kino manuscript used by Ortega, see Historia del Nayarit, 301, 303, etc. 43 "A la Pimeria Alta, cuyas malas y buenas calidades quedan breve- mente dibujadas, enviaron Ios superiores al padre Eusebio Francisco Kino; y habiendose encontrado un legajo de sus papeles en que estdn coordinados sus viajes, empresas y descubrimientos , serd may conveniente que su memoria en suscinta relacion se conserve en esta Historia" [Historia del Nayarit, 301-302]. Again, "El mismo apostolico sdbio jesuita en sus papeles se refiere a varios que de sus descubrimientos ha remitido, 6 d Roma ...da Mexico" (ibid., 302). 44 A reference was made in 1792 by one who had seen it. This was Father Figueroa, who in that year compiled the manuscript collection called Memorias para la Historia de Nueva Espana, consisting of thirty-two vol umes. In volume xvii he copied Kino's diary of 1683-1685. Incident thereto 68 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol- Conjectures of Modern Writers Nevertheless, a few modern authors have noticed the allusions in the old Jesuit histories, and it is interesting to see what they have thought they meant. The earliest conjecture which I have seen as to their meaning is that made by Beristain y Souza, in his Biblioteca Hispano- Americana Septentrional, first published in Mexico in the period 1816-1821. Commenting in that work up on Alegre's reference, Beristain conjectured that the so-called "Historia" by Kino was "perhaps nothing else," to use his own words, than Kino's diaries, letters, and reports, otherwise known, taken collectively. "Or," he says, "it may be the relation which was brought to my notice by my inquisitive friend, Don Jose Maria he made the following comment: "Among the manuscript papers of the secret archive of the extinguished province of the Company of Jesus of New Spain we found some in the very handwriting of the apostolic man Francisco Kino. They detail at great length some of the expeditions which, on various occasions, this same father undertook for the discovery and conversion of the barbarian heathen living in the barrancos and rancherias which extend toward the Sea of California. The greater portion of the papers written by Father Kino furnished material for the work which, under the title of Afanes Apostdlicos, was printed in Barcelona by the Company of Jesus in 1754. Since they were communicated to the public in this way, it is seen that they have no place in this collection, except the diary that follows, which is not included in that work. It contains, indeed, detailed notices of the discovery and conversion of many rancherias of heathen which are not distinctly treated of in the Apostdlicos Afanes." This note was published in Documentos para la Historia de Mexico (fourth ser., Mexico, 1856, tomo i, 403), as an intro duction to Kino's "Tercera Entrada," to which Figueroa refers. It is clear, therefore, that Father Figueroa saw the papers to which the other authors referred, but that, on the other hand, he did not recognize their unity or their exact relation to the Afanes, Clavigero, Historia de la Antigua 6 Baja California (Mejico, 1852), in the "Prefacio del Autor" says of Venegas: "approvechandose de las cartas de Ios misioneros, y especialmente de Ios padres Salvatierra, Piccolo y Ugarte, que fueron de Ios mas celebres y antiguos{,~\ de la historia manu- scrita de Sonora, compuesta por el infatigable padre Kino, etc." He evi dently took this from the "Prologo" of Venegas, and had no personal knowledge of the "historia manuscrita" by Kino. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, SJ. 69 de la Riba y Rada." This relation, he explains, was the "Relacion diaria" of 1698, now slightly known but which Beristain evidently had never seen.45 The De Backers, in their monumental Bibliotheque, iS published at Liege, 1869- 1876, follow Beristain, and, favoring the latter of his alternative conjectures, query with respect to the Kino "Historia," as cited by Alegre, "is it different from C [the "Relacion diaria"] ?" The Sommervogel edition of the De Backer, printed as late as 1893, contains the same query without adding new light. In the meantime Bancroft, writing in 1884, made a somewhat different conjecture, and one that was not without some shrewdness, although quite wide of the mark. It will be remembered that Ortega states that in writing the Apostolicos Afanes he made use of a '"relacion" by Father Kino. Noting this statement, Bancroft says, "Venegas refers to a Ms. Historia de So nora by Kino, referring to the letters embodied in the Apostolicos Afanes." A little farther on in the same work Bancroft says of the Afanes, "Libros ii and iii re late to the Jesuit work in Pimeria, and the former al most exclusively to Kino's achievements down to 17 10, being in substance as is believed Kino's own letters on the subject. It may be regarded probably as the His toria de Sonora vaguely alluded to by several writers as having been left in Ms. by Kino." Again, he says of Manje: "His reports have fortunately been pre served . . . being often more satisfactory than even Kino's letters as embodied in the Apostolicos 46 The evidence that he had not seen it is the fact that he copies from another source a peculiarity of title which is not found in the original. 46 Bibliothique des escrivains de la Compagnie de Jesus (Liege, 1853- 1861), vol. v, 367-368. See Sommervogel, Bibliothique de la Compagnie de Jesus, Premiere Partie, vol. iv, 1044, and Addenda, xii ; and vol. ix, 548. 70 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Afanes." In his Arizona and New Mexico, published in 1888, he states unequivocally that the Afanes, or a part of it, is made up "mainly of Kino's letters." " And thus, to summarize, it has been conjectured that the "Historia" referred to by the early writers was (1) merely Kino's letters "as embodied in the Apostolicos Afanes," or (2) his letters, diaries, and reports taken collectively, or (3) the single diary of 1698. In all these cases there is an implied disbelief in the existence of a History, in the sense of a compilation or treatise. The Discovery of the Favores Celestiales This word of Bancroft, excepting Sommervogel's repetition of the De Backers's query, seems to be the last that has been said upon the subject up to the pres ent. But now mystery is dispelled and conjectures are made superfluous by the discovery in the archives of Mexico of what is clearly the "Historia" or "Relacion" to which Venegas, Ortega, and Alegre referred. The complete title of the work is: "Favores Celestiales de Iesus y de Maria Ssma. y del gloriosissimo Apostol de las Yndias S. Francisco Xavier experimentados en las nuevas Conquistas y nuevas Comversiones del nuevo Reino de la Nueva Navarra desta America Septen trional yncognita, y Passo por Tierra a la California en 35 grados de Altura con su nuevo Mapa cosmografico de estas nuevas y dilitadas Tierras que hasta Aora ha- vian sido yncognitas, dedicados a la Rl. Magd. de Feli pe V. mui Catolico Rey y gran Monarca de las Es- paiias, y de las Yndias." It is referred to here as the Favores Celestiales. The "Mapa Cosmografico" is not filed with the man- 47 Bancroft, North Mexican States and Texas, vol. i, 190, 253, 256; Ari zona and New Mexico, 254. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 71 uscript and has not been seen by the present writer, un less it be the Kino map of 1701. General Nature of the Work The general nature of the work is readily gathered from its table of contents. It opens with a dedication to "the very Catholic Majesty of Our Lord Philip V" and the conventional "Prologue to the charitable read er." The body consists of five parts, of greatly unequal lengths, each divided into books and chapters. Part I is a consecutive account of the spiritual affairs, the explorations, the Indian troubles, and other temporal interests in Pimeria Alta, with considerable attention to California, from the time of Kino's arrival in March, 1687, to November, 1699, and contains near the end a discussion of the spiritual and temporal advantages which might be derived from further conquests in "this most extensive northern portion of this North America, which is the largest and best portion of the earth." Parts II, III, and IV cover in a similar way the pe riod from 1700 to 1707, with particular emphasis upon Kino's own exploring expeditions in Pimeria Alta, along the Gila and Colorado Rivers, and along the Gulf coast. Here the chronological narrative ends. Part V was not originally written as a portion of the "His toria," but was incorporated, in Kino's last days, as a suitable conclusion. It is a report to the King, finished in 1710, the year before Kino's death, and consists of an extended argument in favor of the promotion of further conquests in California and other parts of the northern country, with a view to the establishment of a new kingdom to be called "New Navarre." In short, the Favores Celestiales is a history of Pi meria Alta and of explorations therein and therefrom, 72 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. with considerable attention to California affairs, for the twenty-three years between 1687 and 1710, written by the principal personage in the region during the period. From internal evidence we learn the essential facts concerning the compilation of the Favores Celestiales. It was written at the request of the Father General of the Jesuit order, and is therefore official in character. The various parts were compiled at different times, during a period of more than ten years, between 1699 and 1 710, and different portions of the work were for warded to the authorities as they were completed, be fore the termination of the whole work. In fact, no evidence has been seen that the completed history was sent to the authorities. One striking fact is that it was all written at Kino's remote mission of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, in the intervals between the absorbing and fatiguing labors of the missionary and the explorer. The Identity of the Favores Celestiales with the "Historia" A careful ,study establishes beyond the shadow of a doubt the identity of the Favores Celestiales with the "History" or "Relacion" used by Venegas, Ortega, and Alegre. A detailed comparison shows that in the part dealing with Kino's life work, Ortega's Apostolicos Afanes is little else than a summary of the Favores Ce lestiales, and not always a critical summary at that, though in general very good. In the order of presen tation, the former follows the latter throughout, while there are innumerable evidences of word and phrase borrowing. The two other writers, Venegas and Ale gre, are so brief in the ground covered by the Favores Celestiales that it is less easy to detect borrowing, but in one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 73 Venegas a few instances are so palpable as to leave no doubt. With respect to Alegre, it appears that while he had the Favores Celestiales at hand, in the main he followed Ortega's condensation of it, rather than the original. Its Value as a Source Our primary interest in the Favores Celestiales, of course, is to know its value as an historical source. To determine this, it is necessary to analyze its contents in the light of the hitherto extant sources for the different periods and subjects which it covers. The results of an exhaustive examination of that nature can only be in timated here, and this mainly in a quantitative way. 1. In the first place, the Favores Celestiales is a continuous account of an entire historical movement of great importance, covering a period of more than twen ty years, from the pen of the principal actor. In this respect it has no known rival, and its value is obvious. Next to it in rank from this standpoint is Libro II of Manje's Luz de Tierra Incognita, of which more lat er. Even if all the facts which the Favores Celestiales contains could be gleaned from other sources, it would still, from its personal associations, have the highest intrinsic value. The worth of such a treatise, to be sure, is greatly dependent upon the author's method of work. That Kino wrote from the sources, and kept close to them, and thus fulfilled one important condition, is evidenced by the fact that in the Favores Celestiales he quotes from about two hundred documents, giving some in their entirety, and citing others. He must have had at hand and drawn upon the correspondence of many years. Numerically, the larger portion of the docu- 74 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol ments quoted are letters from his superiors and asso ciates, but there are also, quoted at length, seven diaries of exploring expeditions, chiefly within what is now the United States. Nearly all of these diaries, and the whereabouts of quite all, I believe, have been hitherto unknown. 2. In the second place, the discovery of the Favores Celestiales discloses the chief source from which the extant secondary works are drawn; for, as it has been said, it now appears that Ortega's Afanes, which has represented the maximum of our information, is mere ly a summary of the Favores Celestiales, while Vene gas and Alegre, still briefer, depended directly or in directly on the same source. More recent accounts of Kino's work have all been drawn mainly from Ortega, Alegre, Manje, and Venegas. Recurring at this point to Bancroft's conjecture, it is now seen that while the Afanes is not composed of Kino's own letters, to any important extent, and that the "Historia" (i.e. Favores Celestiales) is by no means identical with the Afanes (or with Book II of it, if that is what Bancroft meant to say) ; yet Bancroft rightly concluded that the Afanes was founded on a wealth of original documents, and that by the "Historia" and the "Relacion" Ortega, Venegas, and Alegre all referred to the same thing, whatever it was. 3. The supreme test is what the Favores Celestiales contains that is not found in the available primary sources, as distinguished from the secondary works. This question must be considered from the standpoint of the different periods covered by Kino, for no single generalization will hold for all periods. For the history of Pimeria Alta from the time of Kino's arrival there in 1687 to the coming of Manje late one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 75 in 1693, our main reliance has hitherto been the second ary works of Ortega, Venegas, and Alegre, none of whom was an eye-witness or even a contemporary, and the earliest of whom wrote many years after the close of the period designated. Very few contemporary doc uments for these years - almost none by Kino - have been known. Thus the Favores Celestiales is not only the principal source of our secondary accounts, but practi cally the only important primary source for the period. It is not surprising, therefore, that, besides greatly en larging our information, it corrects many errors that have become current, and puts on a solid footing a number of important statements hitherto uncertain or skeptically regarded, with reference to early explora tions within the United States.48 For the period extending from 1694 t0 17°I, inclu sive, our most important single source has been the ac count by Manje, commander of Kino's military escort on several expeditions. For this compilation Bancroft improvised the title, Historia de Pimeria Alta,49 etc. 48 To this period Kino devotes two books, entitled "Book I, First Entry into Pimeria, and the beginnings of its Spiritual and Temporal Conquest, and of its Conversion to Our Holy Catholic Faith," and "Book II, Visit and Triennium of the Father Visitor Juan Maria Salvatierra, 1690, 1691, 1692." From the founding of Mission Dolores, in March, 1687, to January, 1691, very little has hitherto been known of Kino's doings. Thus Bancroft writes that his "subsequent movements for several years are not recorded in detail," and that "he kept on alone and before 1690 had fine churches in each of his villages (North Mexican States and Texas, vol. i, 253). Again, in his Arizona and New Mexico [p. 352], Bancroft says: "For six years he toiled alone, till fathers Campos and Januske came in 1693." But the Favores Celestiales contains several chapters on this dark period. It tells us, too, that Kino did not work alone all the time, as has been supposed, but that Fathers Luis Maria Pineli, Antonio Arias, Pedro de Sandoval, and Juan del Castillejo "came in and accomplished some good in this Pimeria," stating spe cifically where each worked (see volume i, 116). These are but illustrations of numerous ways in which this first portion of the Favores Celestiales will correct and enlarge our information for the period. 49 North Mexican States and Texas, vol. i, 256. 76 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Of it he says: "This work is composed of Manje's diaries given literally, but connected apparently by some editor whose name is unknown." But the orig inal manuscript, which, also, I had the good fortune to discover, shows that it is Libro II of a work called Luz de Tierra Incognita, and that the unknown editor was Manje himself. The work extends to 1721, but is rela tively unimportant for the current of events after 1701.50 Of this relation it has been said that its only rival for the period under consideration is the Apos tolicos Afanes ; 51 and in the absence of the source from which the Afanes was drawn, this opinion was correct. But we now have that source, and the assertion no long er holds. A careful comparison shows that the Favores Celes tiales supplements the Luz de Tierra Incognita in many important particulars, only a few of which can be men tioned. In general, it emphasizes mission affairs, while Manje's work gives relatively more attention to mili tary events. With Manje at hand, Bancroft was con strained to say of Kino's first visit to Casa Grande, in 1 694 -the first unquestioned expedition thither on rec ord -"No diary was kept, and our knowledge is limited to the bare fact that such an entrada was made."52 But 60 A copy of Libro i is in the Biblioteca Nacional, Mexico (1720, 1 vol. octavo, Ms.). This work covers the history of discovery in the northwestern part of New Spain, and particularly in Pimeria Alta before Manje's day. It contains at the end a copy of Kino's diary of 1698, of which the original was discovered by me in another archive. Libro II published in Docu ments para la Historia de Mexico, ser. iv, tomo i (Mexico, 1856), without title, is a continuation of this work, a fact that has never before been noted, :so far as my knowledge extends. A copy of Libro 1 is in the Peabody Mu seum, and is. listed among the Bandelier transcripts in Report of the United .States Commission to the Columbian Historical Exposition at Madrid, 1892- J893, 326. 51 Bancroft, Arizona and New Mexico, 354. 52 North Mexican States, vol. i, 259; see Arizona and New Mexico, 355. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, SJ. 77 the Favores Celestiales devotes a chapter to the visit,53 short, it is true, but nevertheless very enlightening. Kino embodies in his account of the period designated, and especially of the events of 1695, many original letters not given elsewhere, to my knowledge,54 and devotes several chapters to important happenings of 1696, 1697, and ^98 not touched at all by Manje. For one exploring expedition of 1699 and another of 1701 Kino parallels Manje's diary with his own, while for two expeditions of 1700 and one of 1701 not treated at all by Manje he gives diaries. It has already been noted that most of these diaries have not only been unavailable but also unknown to modern scholars. Manje, on the other hand, supplies diaries of three ex peditions made in 1694, one in 1697, anc* one m x^99 of which Kino gives only secondary accounts, based, apparently, on his own diaries. For the period from April, 1701, to Kino's death, in 171 1, the lack, hitherto, of primary sources, has been as great as for that before 1694, while the Favores Celes tiales, fortunately, is much fuller for this period than for the former. Our main reliance here, as there, has been the older secondary histories already mentioned, especially the Afanes. This work, hitherto much the fullest account of the period, devotes to it some twelve thousand words, while the Favores Celestiales, besides being the source of all that the Afanes contains, devotes to the same period some seventy-five thousand words, or 53 Parte 1, Libro 11, Capitulo vm : "Entrada 0 Mision al Norte y al Nortueste de mas de 100 leguas hasta al Rio y casa grande y descubrimiento de las dos Nuevas Naciones la opa y la Coco Maricopa." The spelling of "Nortueste" illustrates one of Kino's peculiarities of composition alluded to on a previous page. 54 Libros in and iv, comprising thirteen and six short chapters, respec tively, are devoted entirely to the work and martyrdom of Father Saeta and the Indian troubles following that event. 78 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. six times the space. It is here, perhaps, that its dis tinctive value for narrative history is greatest, in view of the brevity of other accounts of the events of these years. The chronological treatment of events extends in the Favores Celestiales only to 1707. Among the notable source items incorporated for this period are four diaries, none hitherto accessible, and the "In forme" of 1710, which is cited by Ortega, but whose whereabouts and contents apparently have been un known to modern scholars. The Favores Celestiales will not be studied least, perhaps, for the light which it throws upon the "ques tion of the peninsularity of California and upon Kino's ambitious visions of northward progress of th£ Jesuit missions and the Spanish arms. In addition to the nar ratives and the diaries which it gives of numerous ex plorations made to get new light upon California geog raphy, the Favores Celestiales devotes a chapter to the discussion of Kino's conclusions concerning it.55 LISTS OF FATHER KINO'S WRITINGS Having made the foregoing general statement re garding the writings of Kino incorporated by him in the Favores Celestiales, their relative importance may be made clearer by enumerating them in a list beside one of those hitherto known and available to modern scholars. A tentative list of such writings, eliminating all duplications, all titles of doubtful authenticity, and all unpublished manuscripts whose whereabouts has not been ascertained, is given below. The process by 55 Parte n, Libro iv, Capitulo l Mr. I. B. Richman, for whose California under Spain and Mexico the present writer gathered all the Mexican archive materials, made some slight use of the Favores Celestiales in the form of the writer's translation. His statement (op. tit., 387) that "portions more or less complete are to be found in various Ms. collections and in print" is based on the mistake of confusing Manje's Luz de Tierra Incognita for a work by Kino. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 79 which it was derived need not be stated here. A num ber of titles given by Sommervogel, Beristain, and others, will be missed, but, as has been indicated, those lists are greatly confused, and when critically studied many of the items disappear. It is to be understood, however, that the list given here is not considered as by any means final. A. Kino writings hitherto available Exposjcion Astronomica de el Cometa (Mexico, 1681). Tercera Entrada. en 21 de Diciembre de 1683. Printed in Documentos para la Historia de Mexico, ser. iv, torn, i, 405- 468. Original Ms. in the archives of Mexico. Une lettre. Oct. 5, 1684. So cited by Sommervogel, as printed in Scherer's Geographia hier- archica. Monachii, 1703. As a matter of fact, the extract is not a single letter, "but a gathering of several letters'' of Kino. A letter of May 13, 1687, "an einen unbenannten Priester." Quoted in "Brief Patris Adami Gilg," in Stocklein, Neue Welt Bott, 1726. Relacion del estado de la Pimeria que remitte el Pe. Visitador Ho- racio Polici: y es copia de Carta que le escribe el Capitan Dn. Christoval Martin Bernal. Dec. 3 and 4, 1697. Printed in Documentos para la Historia de Mexico, ser. iii, torn, iv, 797-809. Original Ms. in the archives of Mexico. Colocasion de nuestra Sa. de Ios Remedios en su nueva capilla de su nuevo pueblo de las Nuevas Conversiones de la Pimeria En 15 de Setiembre de 98 as. Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, Sept. 16, 1698. Printed under a wrong title in Documentos para la Historia de Mexico, ser. iii, torn, iv, 814-816. The title given above is that of the original Ms. in the archives of Mexico. Carta del padre Eusebio Francisco Kino, al padre visitador Horacio Policio, acerca de una entrada al Noroeste y mar de la California, en Compania del Captain Diego Carrasco, actual teniente de esta dilatada Pimeria, que fue de ida y vuelta mas de trescientas leguas, a 22 de setiembre de 1698. Signed at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, Oct. 18, 1698. Printed in Documentos para la Historia de Mexico, ser. iii, torn, iv, 817-819. The above title is that of the original Ms. in the archives of Mexico. 80 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Relasion Diaria de la entrada al nortuesta que fue de Yda y Buelta mas de 300 leguas desde 21 de setiembre hasta 18 de Otubre de 1698. Descubrimiento del desemboque del rio grande hala Mar de la California y del Puerto de Sa. Clara Reduction de mas de 4000 almas de las Costas Bautismos de mas de 400 Parbulos 1698. Con Ensenanzas y Experienzias. Unprinted. The above title is from the original in the archives of Mexico. Known hitherto only in the form of a Ms. copy at the end of Libro I of Liz de Tierra Incdgnita in the Biblioteca Nacional. Breve relacion de la insigne victoria que Ios Pimas, Sobaipuris en 30 de Marzo del Ano de 1698 han conseguido contra Ios enemigos de la Provincia de Sonora. May 3, 1698. Post-dated Oct. 25. Printed in Documentos para la Historia de Mexico, ser. iii, torn, iv, 810-813. The above title is from the original Ms. in the archives of Mexico. Paso por tierra a la California y sus Confinantes Nuebas Naciones, etc. 1 701. This is Kino's famous map of Pimeria Alta, which has been printed in many editions. The above list, including ten titles, and comprising three letters, two diaries, three relations, and one map, embraces, as has been said, all the unquestioned Kino items available to modern scholars, so far as I have been able to determine up to the present.58 To these can now be added, from those incorporated in the Favores Ce lestiales, seven diaries, three letters, and an "informe," or report. None of these items, so far as I am aware, has been available to modern students. Some were referred to by the older historians, but have been posi tively declared not extant. Others have never been mentioned to my knowledge. It will be seen that the new list is longer than the old. Thus the Favores Ce lestiales, regarded merely as a source book, doubles our available Kino writings. It must be remembered, of course, that though they are given in documentary 56 This enumeration does not account for all the manuscripts listed in the Catholic Encyclopedia, vol. viii, 660, since some of the titles listed there are of uncertain identity. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. form, they may not be exact copies. The titles here given are in most cases chapter headings. The list is as follows : B. Additional Kino writings incorporated in the Favores Celestiales Entrada o Mission del Pe. Visitador Antonio Leal en la Pimeria a Ios Sobaipuris del Norte y a la costa del Nortueste y del Poniente de ida y buelta de 240 leguas desde, 24 de ottue. hasta 28 de No- viembre de 1699 ans hai en elia 23 Bautismos, y se ven y quentan como 7000 almas. Translated in this volume, pages 203-210. Relacion Diaria de la Entrada al Norte en orden a descubrir camino, y passo por tierra a la California, segun muchas Personas desean escriven, y piden. Translated in this volume, pages 230-240. Entrada de 170. leguas al Norte y Nortueste en Busca del Passo por tierra a la California, y Descubrimto. del Caudalosissimo muy Poblado, y muy fertil Rio Colorado (que es legitimo Rio del Norte) y de las Nuevas Naciones. Translated in this volume, pages 242-258. Entrada (o Mission) al Remate de la Mar de la California en 34 grados del [ski Altura Con el Pe. Rr. Juan Maria de Salvatierra. Translated in this volume, pages 265-292. Entrada de 200. leguas a la Nacion Quiquima de la California Alta y al muy Caudaloso, muy fertil, y muy poblado Rio Colorado, que es el legitimo, y verdadero, Rio del Norte. 1701. Translated in this volume, pages 307-322. Letter to Father Leal, describing the same journey. Dec. 8, 1701. Translated in this volume, pages 322-324. Entrada de 200. leguas del ano 1702. con el muy individual Nuevo Descumbrimto. del muy cierto y muy patente Passo por tierra a la California, que se reconoce no ser Ysla, sino Penisla, Feb.-Apr., 1702. Translated in this volume, pages 335-347. Letter to Father Leal, describing the above expedition, Apr. 8, 1702. Translated in this volume, pages 347-362. Mission Quaresmal de mas de 50 leguas: Al Nortueste y al Poniente, desde 27 de febrero asta 20 de Marzo, de 1706 entrando A San 82 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA Ambrosio del Busanic, Al Tibutama y a Nra ssa de la Concep cion del Caborca. Feb.-March, 1706. Translated in volume ii, 165-170. Ynforme y Relasion de las nuevas Comversiones de esta America Sep tentrional, etc. Feb. 2, 17 10. Translated in volume ii, 227-271. Letter to King Philip V, transmitting the foregoing. Feb. 2, 17 10. Translated in volume ii, 224-225. C. Other Kino manuscripts now available Besides the foregoing the editor of this work has procured from the Archivo General de Indias the fol lowing Kino writings hitherto not available, it is be lieved. They all relate to Kino's early career in Amer ica. Transcripts of each are in the Bancroft Library. The location of the originals in the archives is indi cated in the Bibliography at the end of Volume II. Letter to the Bishop of Durango. Pueblo de Nio. March 25, 1682. Testimonio de la Posecion tomada. Puerto de Nuestra Sefiora de la Paz, April 5, 1683. By Eusebio Francisco Quino and Pedro Mathias Goni. Signed by these and witnessed by Francisco de Pereda y Arze, Matheo Andres, Martin de Verastegui. Delineacion de la Nueva Provincia de S. Andres del Puerto de la Paz, y de las Islas circumvecinas de las California, 6 Carolinas. Dec. 21, 1683. Description de la Fortificacion y Rl. de S. Bruno de Californias. i683[?]. Letter to the viceroy. San Bruno, Dec. 6, 1684. Letter to the viceroy. San Bruno, Dec. 8 [?] 1684. Letter to the Bishop of Guadalajara, Torin, May 30, 1685. Letter to the Bishop of Guadalajara, Colegio de Guadalaxara, Oct. 10, 1685. Letter to the Bishop of Guadalajara. Compostela, November 5, 1683. Letter to the Bishop of Guadalajara. Matanchel, Nov. 15, 1685. Letter to the Bishop of Guadalajara, on board the Almiranta, Dec. 2, 1685. Letter to the Bishop of Guadalajara, Casa Profesa, Feb. 15, 1686. Petition asking prohibition of taking Indians with seals to work in mines from his prospective mission. Guadalajara, Dec. 16, 1686. CELESTIAL FAVORS OF JESUS, Most Holy Mary, and the Most Glori ous Apostle of the Indies, San Francis co Xavier, Experienced in the New Conquests and New Conversions of the New Kingdom of Nueva Navarra of this Unknown North America ; and the Land-Passage to California in Thirty-five Degrees of Latitude, with the New Cosmographic Map of these New and Extensive Lands which hith erto have been unknown. Dedicated to the Royal Majesty of Philip V, Very Catholic King and Grand Monarch of the Spains and the Indies. TO THE VERY CATHOLIC MAJESTY OF OUR SOVEREIGN, PHILIP V When, six years ago,57 I received from our Father General, Thirso Gonsales,58 a most paternal letter of the preceding year, very urgently charging me to continue to write the "Celestial Favors Experienced in These New Conquests and New Conversions," at the same time the father provincial, Francisco de Arteaga (who with out my meriting it named me rector of these missions), sent me the very Catholic royal cedula of your Majesty, dated July 17, 1701, in printed form, and inserted in the report which, upon request of the Royal Audiencia of Guadalaxara and by order of your Majesty, was made and printed by Father Francisco Maria Picolo,59 mis sionary of California, concerning the prosperous con dition of that apostolic conquest and conversion. And since the royal, very Catholic, and most Christian cedula of your Majesty so greatly favors all these new conversions, both of California and of this mainland of Cinaloa and Sonora, and of this Pimeria, through your Majesty's so piously ordering that they be maintained, extended, and encouraged by all possible means, and through your Majesty's so tenderly granting the benign license which, in the year 1697, the Sefior Viceroy Don Joseph Sarmiento de Valladares gave to Father 07 That is, in 1702. 68 Father Tirso Gonzales was general of the Jesuits from July 6, 1687, to October 27, 1705 (Catholic Encyclopedia, vol. xiv, 85-86). 69 Father Picolo's report is incorporated by Father Kino in this work. See volume ii, 46-67. 86 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Rector Juan Maria de Salvatierra and me to go to California to seek the conversion of those heathen, charging his Royal Audiencia of Guadalaxara with preparing the necessary reports, in order that in view of them such provisions should be made as might be considered proper in order to perfect the work which had been undertaken so many years before, and which is of such great service to God and to the increase of our holy Catholic faith, resolving that there should be assigned six thousand pesos each year from this treas ury, etc., in view of all this I recognize this royal cedu la of Your Majesty to be one of the chief celestial favors which our Lord bestows upon us, and about which I have here to write. And having present this royal and Catholic cedula of your Majesty, and the said report of the prosperous condition of California and of the neighboring friends, lovers of the new conversions, a religious pen60 an swered me that it was even more important to report and write of these new conversions of this province of Sonora and of this Pimeria, since they have more prof itable and fertile lands, and are of less expense to the royal estate. Because of this very Catholic royal cedula of your Majesty, these conquests in this very extensive North America might be called the New Philippines of America, with the same and with even greater proprie ty than that with which the conquered islands of the East Indies in Asia were named Philippines in consid eration of the great Catholic zeal of Philip III;81 un less your Royal Majesty prefers, as has been and is the 60 Father Agustin Campos, missionary at San Ignacio. 61 Philip III reigned 1598-1621. The Philippines were so named as a re sult of the Villalobos expedition of 1543, and in honor of the prince, who became Philip II. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 87 opinion of various persons very zealous in the service of both Majesties, that these new conquests, which are more than two hundred leagues in extent, should be decorated with the name of the New Kingdom of Nueva Navarra, as others are called kingdoms of Nueva Biscaya, Nueva Galisia, etc. For this New Kingdom of the American Nueva Navarra might unite still other neighboring kingdoms which are being con quered with those already conquered, just as the king dom of Navarra in Europe lies between and unites the crowns and realms of France and Spain. With all my heart, I wish that now I might have a small part of the good fortune which Father Andres Peres de Rivas had when he dedicated to Philip, the fourth of this so happy name, and your Majesty's im mediate predecessor, the notable volume or history of the Triumphs of the Faith among barbarous nations 62 (which were the new conquests and the new conversions of Cinaloa and of surrounding tribes) from the year 1590 to that of 1645, now that since then we have pene trated more than one hundred leagues further this way, as far as this province of Sonora, and more than one hundred and fifty other leagues to the Taraumares,63 and now that I, with only my servants and fifty or sixty or more mules and horses, in more than fifty journeys inland, made through the great mercy of our Lord dur ing these twenty years, some of which have been fifty, sixty, and one hundred leagues and some one hundred and fifty and two hundred leagues in extent, have pene trated to the north, to the west, and to the northeast, and 82 The reference is to the work of Andres Perez de Ribas, entitled His toria de Ios Trivmphos de Nvestra Santa Fee entre gentes las mas barbaras y fieras del Nueuo Orbe. Madrid, 1645. 63 The Tarahumares lived east of the Sierra Madre, mainly in the present state of Chihuahua. They are of Piman stock (Hodge, Handbook of Ameri can Indians North of Mexico). 88 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. particularly to the most unknown regions of the north west, as far as the land passage to California, which I discovered in the years 1698 and 1699, and which is in the latitude of thirty-five degrees, where I discovered also the very large, extremely fertile, and most densely populated Colorado River (the true Rio del Norte of the ancients), which flows into the head of the Sea of California and reaches to the neighborhood of the hither borders of Gran Quivira. By means of these many and repeated journeys and missions which I have made to all parts, without spe cial expense to the royal estate, there remain reduced to our friendship and to obedience to the royal crown, and with a desire to receive our holy faith, more than thirty thousand souls in this vicinity, both in this Pima na tion, which has more than sixteen thousand souls, and in the neighboring lands of the Cocomaricopas, Yumas, Quiquimas, Cutganes, Bagiopas, Hoabonomas,64 etc. And there are many more tribes with more souls and people, where one can enter with all ease; for I have already sent them messages and discourses concerning Christian doctrine, and they have informed me, and we know, that if missionary fathers come they will follow and imitate these other nations already reduced. In these twenty-one years, after having been mission ary of California in the expedition made at a cost of more than half a million to the royal estate by the Ad miral Don Ysidro de Atondo y Antillon, whom I aided in taking possession of California (passing to the opposite coast and the South Sea in the latitude of 84 All these were tribes living near the lower Gila and lower Colorado Rivers. The Yumas, Quiquimas (Quigyumas), Cutganes (Cuchan, Kwi- chana), and Cocomaricopas (Maricopas) are all Yuman tribes. Hodge, our best authority on this group, regards the Hoabomomas as probably of Yuman and the Bagiopas as probably of Shoshonean stock. See the "Index'' for each of the tribes. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, SJ. 89 twenty-six degrees, and holding the offices of first rector of that new conversion, vicar of the Sefior Bishop of Guadalaxara, and cosmographer of his Majesty), I have baptized here in these new conquests and new conversions about four thousand five hundred souls,65 and could have baptized twelve or fifteen thousand if we had not suspended further baptisms until our Lord should bring us missionary fathers to aid us in instruct ing and ministering to so many new subjects of your Majesty and parishioners of our Holy Mother Church. Since afterwards the conquest and conversion of California was suspended, I asked for and obtained permission to come to these neighboring coasts and the heathen people of this province of Sonora, which be gins in the latitude of thirty-two degrees. And the father provincial, Anbrosio Oddon,66 having named me rector of these new missions and of those of San Fran cisco Xavier de Sonora, and Father Juan Maria de Salvatierra as visitor of Cinaloa and Sonora, when, in the year 1691, his Reverence came to visit these new conversions of this Pimeria, we went inland for the space of a whole month and more than fifty leagues of travel. And, seeing these lands so pleasant, so rich, so fertile and able so easily to lend aid to the scanty lands of California, the said father visitor, Juan Maria de Salvatierra,67 and I agreed to foster so far as we could 66 It has been customary for writers to state that Father Kino baptized more than 40,000 natives, instead of 4,000. This was due to a misreading of Kino by Ortega, author of the Apostolicos Afanes, and whom other writers have followed. 66 Father Ambrosio Oddon was named provincial in November, 1689, to succeed Father Bernabe de Soto. In December, 1693, he was succeeded by Diego de Almonazir, and himself became rector of the Colegio Maximo of Mexico (Alegre, Historia de la Compania de Jesus, vol. iii, 68-69, 75). 87 Father Juan Maria Salvatierra was the leader of the Jesuits in their great missionary work in Baja California from 1697 to 1717, part of which 90 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. the continuation of that new conquest and conversion of California, his Reverence at once making for that purpose a very favorable report. When, seven years afterwards, we obtained the desired license, which is cited in the said royal cedula of your Majesty, my go ing was prevented by the reports which the royal offi cials of this province of Sonora dispatched to Mexico, saying that I was needed in this extensive Pimeria, and Father Francisco Maria Picolo was sent in my place. But I, always encouraged to that end by our father general, Thirso Gonzales, and by the father visitor, Orasio Polise,68 from here have tried to promote the welfare of both conquests, and of their new conversions, in this most extensive and unknown North America, which seems to give thanks to the Lord by offering such an opportunity for its complete conquest and con version, that, God helping, we shall be able to write new treatises and volumes. One of them may be called: The Seven1 New Kingdoms. "The seven ancient, heathen, and fallen cities69 of this unknown North America, which are being changed and reduced under the most Christian protection of the very Catholic King and great [monarch] of the Spains and the In dies, Philip V., may God preserve him." These seven new kingdoms, in place of the seven an cient cities, might be: I, Nueva Biscaya, which lies time he held the office of provincial in New Spain. For his work see Engel- hardt, Missions and Missionaries of California, vol. i, 71-113; Alegre, His toria de la Compania de Jesus, vol. iii, passim; Venegas (Burriel), Noticia de la California, vol. ii, 1-307. Bancroft, North Mexican States and Texas, vol. I, chap, xi, xv. A portrait of Salvatierra is printed in Engelhardt, vol. i, facing p. 80. A more pleasing one is in Alegre, vol. iii, facing p. 96. 88 Oracio Polici was visitor in 1696. In that year and the next Kino made several journeys into Arizona, at Father Polici's order. See post, page 164. 89 The allusion is to the old belief in Seven Cities in northwestern Amer ica. Columbus heard of them while in the West Indies, Guzman sought them in Sinaloa, Fray Marcos identified them with the Zuni pueblos which he discovered. Coronado conquered them in 1540. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 91 to the south and southeast; II, Nuevo Mexico, which is northeast of us; III, California Baja, which lies to the southwest and west of us, and extends as far as the latitude of thirty-five degrees, with the Gulf of Cali fornia between; IV, this new kingdom of Nueva Navarra, scene of these new conquests and new con versions, which are between the other new kingdoms, and about in the center or heart of all this North Amer ica; V, California Alta,70 which lies to the west and northwest of us, from the latitude of thirty-five degrees to that of forty-five or forty-six; VI, Gran Quivira,71 which lies to the northwest of us, where the pirate Eng lish captain placed his pretended Sea of California; VII, Gran Teguayo,72 or Nueva Borbona, which is to the north of us, beyond the Moqui, and extends from thirty-seven or thirty-eight degrees north latitude to the Sea of the North, which Hudson discovered in the year 1612, in the latitude of fifty-two, fifty-three, and fifty-four degrees. COSMOGRAPHIC Proof that California is not an Is land, but a Peninsula. I have just written another small treatise called "Cosmographic Proof that Cali fornia is not an Island,73 but a Peninsula, and is contin- 70 It is sometimes maintained that "California Alta," as used early in the eighteenth century, referred primarily to the upper part of the peninsula. It is clear, however, that Kino here meant distinctly the country north of the peninsula, and essentially what is now comprised in the states of California and Oregon. 71 Gran Quivira originally was sought toward the northeast of New Mex ico, but later it was placed by some map makers northwest of New Mexico. For a sketch of Gran Quivira in history see Hodge, Handbook of American Indians, part ii, 346-347. 72 According to Hodge, Teguayo was the name of the Tewa (Tegua) country of New Mexico. In the seventeenth century, writers (e.g. Benavides) located it eastward of New Mexico. Escalante located the "province" in Utah (Hodge, Handbook) part ii, 718. 73 1 have never seen any reference to this document other than the present and others which Kino makes in this work. Evidently it was never printed. 92 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [VoL uous with this New Spain, the Gulf of California end ing in the latitude of thirty-five degrees," and, with its map, I am sending it to Mexico to the father provincial, Juan de Estrada,74 as his Reverence asks me to do. The purposes of these new conquests and new conver sions and of the celestial favors that we experience in them are very much and very particularly promoted by the holy, paternal letter which I have just received from our most reverend father general, Miguel Angel Tamburini,75 who, at the same time that he furnishes a copy of most of these writings of mine, which, by order of his predecessor, Father Thirso Gonzales, went to Rome, among other paternal, most excellent, and holy things, writes me the following: Letter of Our Father General. Hearing of the new discoveries and of their condition, I find much to praise in the mercies of God towards those nations that are being discovered and brought to the knowledge of Him ; and our Company owes special thanks to His Divine Majesty, in that he chooses its sons as instruments of so great glory to Him. I await the other two parts of the Celestial Favors which your Reverence promises. All these reports are such as fill me with joy and with a desire to re spond to the zeal of your Reverence and of your companions. But just as there are obstacles there, we regret that here wars, lack of intercourse, and the dangers of the seas detain our mis sionaries. But we all trust with great confidence in the loving providence of God; for since it has been His will, in such troubled times as these, to disclose those new regions, and to re veal to us the many souls that are scattered outside of His flock, it can not be in order that we may see them perish, but instead 74 Father Juan de Estrada became acting provincial in November, 1707. He had been provost of the Casa Profesa of Mexico (Alegre, Historia, vol. iii, 150). He was succeeded by Father Antonio Jardon (1708-1711); he in turn by Alonso Arrevillaga, in April, 1711 (Alegre, Historia, vol. iii, 150- 157)- 75 Succeeding Father Tirso Gonzalez, Father Michele Angelo Tamburini was general of the Jesuit Order from January 31, 1706 to February 28, 1730 (Catholic Encyclopedia, vol. xiv, 85-86). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 93 to give us means and power to draw them from their forests and reduce them to pueblos and churches. Thus, I beg his divine Majesty to guard your Reverence the many years which I desire. Your Reverence's servant, Miguel Angel Tamburini. Rome, September 5, 1705. Thus far the letter of our father general, from Rome, so laden with celestial favors. Here follow the means and forces which he says our Lord will give us to re duce so many souls to pueblos and churches. They are those which by divine grace we already have, and are as follows : Means for these New Conversions. I. The very rich and fertile lands, abounding in wheat, maize, beans, good rivers, groves, etc. We already have made many crops, fields, and abundant harvests. II. We already have prepared many ranches of cattle, sheep, goats, and horses, not only in these new pueblos, but also very far inland, at distances of twenty, thirty, forty, fifty, and more leagues. III. We already have very good orchards and vineyards to supply wine for the masses. IV. The temperature of these new lands is similar to that of Europe. V. These new conquests are inhabited by industrious Indians. VI. The lands are mineral bearing. VII. We already have conquered these Pima Indians, who are able and accustomed to win continual victories over the enemies who infest this province of Sonora, etc. VIII. These natives on the neighboring California Gulf have very good salines, and fisheries of all kinds of palatable fish, oysters, and shrimps. They also have bezoar, the medicinal fruit called jojoba, blankets, cotton fabrics, curious and very • showy baskets or pitchers, macaws, and feathers; and further inland there must be other means, advantages, and conveniences. IX. The harvest of the very many 94 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. souls is now so ripe that all the year they come from distances of fifty, one hundred, one hundred and fifty, and more leagues, to see me and to ask me to go and baptize them, or to procure for them priests who shall go to assist, care for, and minister to them. And although these extensive conquests will require about fifty missionary fathers, all with their customary alms or necessary supplies, your Majesty can furnish them, without its causing any new expense to the royal estate, by merely ordering that some amounts which are now being spent by it without securing the ends for which your Royal Majesty intends them, and which are therefore not profitable, be assigned to the said fifty missionary fathers of these new conquests and new con versions, who, God willing, will better achieve both purposes, as I will state in another and separate me morial. I conclude with what, so much to our purpose and to the purposes of all, our Holy Mother Church says, prays, and sings on the first feast day in May, that of San Felipe and Santiago, namely, Gentiles Salvatorem videre cupientes ad Philipum accesserunt,™ that is, the Gentiles who wished to see the Saviour of the world drew near to Philip. And thus we see and happily experience with the very Catholic, very pious, and most Christian royal cedula of your Majesty, that all the innumerable Gentiles of these new conversions and new conquests of this very extensive and formerly unknown North America and Nueva Navarra, etc., in order to see, know, and love the Saviour of the world and to save themselves eternally, draw near to the most pious pro- 76 "The Gentiles, desiring to see the Savior, came to Philip." Roman Breviary, Lesson iv, Feast of Sts. Philip and James, Apostles. Founded on John, xii, 20, 21. Marginal annotation in the original Ms: 1 Maij. Noct. 11 Lect. 1. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 95 tection, happy obedience, and fortunate vassalage of Philip V,77 the very Catholic and most happy king and grand monarch of the Spains and the Indies, whose royal life may the Sovereign Divine Majesty preserve and prosper through long and most happy years with His celestial favors, for the temporal and eternal hap piness of the European and American worlds, and of the universe of the heavens and of the earth, for ever more, amen. Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, of these new conquests and new conversions of Nueva Navarra, November 21, 1708. From your very Catholic and humble Chaplain, EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KiNO. 77 Philip V was king of Spain during the years 1700-1746. PROLOGUE TO THE CHARITABLE READER Father Alexandra Francisco Tivipucci, closely imi tating Father Marcello Mastrilli in tender devotion to San Francisco Xavier, as shown in the novena of that glorious holy Apostle of the Indies, says these words : Before Jesus and most holy Mary, I do not wish to owe this health of mine to human means and forces or to the virtues of medicine, but solely to Thee, O my most glorious protector, San Francisco Xavier. The very same will be said by these poor sons of this Pimeria and of this mainland, and by me, and by the most loving fathers and sons of the neighboring Cali fornia, et nati natorum et qui nasentur.™ And we will attribute these new spiritual and temporal conquests of these new conversions to the celestial favors of these above mentioned most divine protectors of ours rather than to human agencies or to the military forces of the presidios and soldiers, etc. ; and we will repeat with the royal prophet, Dominus virtutum, ipse est rex gloriae (Ps. 23) ; et exaltare, Domine, in virtute tua, cantavimus et psalemus virtutes tuas 79 (Ps. 20) . We will sing, O Lord, Thy greatness, Thy virtues, Thy great mercies, and Thy celestial favors and those of Thy Saints. To the most glorious and most pious thaumaturgus and apostle of the Indies, San Francisco Xavier, we all owe very much. I owe him, first, my life, of which 78 "And their children's children and those yet unborn." 78 "The Lord of Hosts He is the King of Glory" (Psalm xxiii, io). "Be Thou exalted, O Lord, in Thy own strength ; we will sing and praise Thy powers" (Psalm xx, 14). ; 9&\ MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. I was caused to despair by the physicians in the City of Hala, of Tirol, in the year 1669; second, my entrance into the company of Jesus; third, my coming to these missions indicated. And because I know that I owe and do not know whether or not I pay, I beg and en treat all the celestial court and all the earthly universe to aid me in giving him due thanks for so many celestial favors bestowed upon the most unworthy of all the earth. And by celestial favors I mean here especially the wonderful mercies which, before Jesus and Mary, we receive from this most glorious apostle of the Indies, in the midst of such great human obstacles and opposi tion as, through Divine disposition, have been encoun tered in the reduction of so many souls, who exceed twenty thousand. And as Father Visitor Juan Maria Salvatierra very fittingly said during his visit to this Pimeria in the middle of January, 1691, when, at that time, we were speaking together here of the conversion of California (the Holy Church includes the same words in the prayer of the three holy kings), Apertum est nobis ostium magnum et evidens; et adversarii multi (Corint 16). B0 There has indeed been opened to us a very wide and very obvious gate to all this most ex tensive northern part of this North America, situated in its most pleasant and most fertile temperate zone; and, moreover, human means have been so lacking that many times those whose duty it was to aid us have hin dered us, and those who were our friends have become our enemies, placing many obstacles in the way of ev erything and trying to make light of the whole affair. All the good is due to spiritual agencies : to these ce- 80 "A great and evident door is opened unto us ; and there are many ad versaries (Ostium enim mihi apertum est magnum et evidens; et adversarii multi." I Cor., xvi, 9). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 99 lestial favors of Jesus and Mary and San Francisco Xavier; to all of the holy convent of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Reyes of Seville, Spain; and to all of the holy con vent of San Joseph de Garcia in the imperial City of Mexico, as is attested by their long papers and cata logues, prints, and vellums, in which they note for us the holy aids of fervent and continuous prayers, volun tary penances and devotions, and pious works, by which these holy communities and many and various other servants of our God, both men and women, are pleased to commit to his Divine Majesty the good and happy promotion of these new conversions. And, thanks to the Most High, by means of the celestial favor of this very wonderful and pacific Christian charity, more will be attained now than by ordinary human agencies and by the military labors of arms and of wars, just as, in speaking of Rome, Pope Saint Leo, in the first sermon of St. Peter and St. Paul, declares in these words, Quamvis enim multis aucta victories ius ynperii tui terra marique protuleris minus tamen est quod tibi bellicus labor sub duxit quam quod Pax Christiana sub- iecit.*1 During all these years the Sefior commander of the arms of these provinces himself, Don Domingo Jironza Petris de Cruzatte,82 has wished to avail himself of his 81 "For though thou (O, Rome), increased by many victories, didst once spread the right of thy power over land and sea, still the toil of war won less for thee than what Christian peace subdued" (Roman Breviary, Fifth Lesson, Feast of Sts. Peter and Paul). The entire passage refers to the spread of Christian Rome's influence. The substitution of subduxit for subdidit shows that the quotation was from memory. 82 Domingo Jironza Petriz de Cruzat (or Cruzate) was sent by King Carlos II in 1680 as visitador of the Leeward Island with a force of fifty men and the rank of captain of infantry, and with orders to the viceroy to provide him an office in reward for services in the wars against Portugal. He was made alcalde-mayor of Mestitlan, a province near Mexico City, and some two years afterward became governor of the revolted province of New ioo MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. very Christian devotion toward his great patroness, Nuestra Sefiora del Pilar, and of other pious works, spiritual exercises, charitable plans, Christian gifts, and very Catholic reasoning with these natives of Pimeria, rather than of violent and bloody wars. By the former means the Pimeria has been reduced, and at the same time the hostile Jocomes and Janos have been destroyed, and this tormented province of Sonora relieved, re paired, and made quiet and peaceful. Who can doubt now that all these are the agencies, unexpected and un hoped for, with which, as a few years ago another fath er visitor prophesied so correctly, these missions of Sonora were to reform and give peace to these prov inces? Let thanks, then, be given to the Most Holy Trinity, thanks to Jesus and most holy Mary, thanks to the most glorious apostle of the Indies, San Francisco Xavier, and to all the celestial court, for all the celestial favors that we have received and are receiving in these new spiritual and temporal conquests and conversions; thanks for the similar matchless benefits that we hope to receive in the future, in the highest, the most lucra- Mexico. He ruled "con aplauso" till 1686, made several campaigns against hostile Indians, but failed to reconquer the province. Again becoming gov ernor of New Mexico (1689-1691) he made renewed attempts to reconquer the province, but failed, although in the struggle at Zia he left six hundred In dians dead on the battle-field. Before the king had heard of Jironza's victory he was replaced by Diego de Vargas Zapata. In a royal cedula of June 21, 1691, the king thanked him for his services, conceded him the robe of the three military orders, and ordered that he be retained in New Mexico if Vargas had not taken possession. In 1693 he was made commander of the newly established Compania Volante of Sonora and alcalde-mayor of the province, with the capital at San Juan Bautista. His nephew, Juan Matheo Manje, was made ensign of the company and later lieutenant alcalde-mayor. During his rule (1693-1700) Jironza made numerous campaigns against the marauding Indians, and was much esteemed by the Jesuit Fathers, while Manje became Kino's principal soldier associate. See Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita; Bancroft, North Mexican States and Texas, vol. i, 255-256, 262, 272-274. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 101 tive, and most happy ministry of all ministries in the world. This is the happy reward for preaching the gos pel in these apostolic undertakings, as was put so clearly by the Venerable Father Pedro de Belasco, on being called by his superiors to leave the new conversions of Sinaloa, where he was working so gloriously, in order to go to Mexico to teach the arts. He told them that he would have them consider the injury that would be done to the Holy Writ, which was taught by the Son of God and read by His apostles and disciples, if they took him away from teaching and reading it to those needy tribes merely to employ him with the earthly maxims of a heathen philosopher; that it would be a mortifica tion to him to leave the book of the Gospels for the books of Aristotle, the preaching of Christ for the teachings of Porphyry, the explanation of the cate chism of sound and eternal truths for the categories of vain and futile sophistries; that they should consider before God whether it would not be a shame if the lan guages which he had already learned and which anoth er could not learn so quickly, and which could be used in catechizing heathen and in teaching Christian peo ple, should go to waste, to the spiritual injury of so many people, merely in order to occupy himself in reading what many others in the province could al ready do; that he was not needed; that he had come from the missions not to leave them, but to make known their needs and his strong desire to return to them ; but that he was ready to do whatever obedience might re quire of him, before God. Thus far the Venerable Father Pedro de Velasco, who returned to his famous missions. Now, O Sovereign Creator of heaven and earth, who, with Thy infinite and most divine love, and with Thy most high celestial providence, ever surest, sweetest, 102 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA and gentlest disposition, hast permitted or caused these human obstacles and contradictions, ludens in orbe terarum,ss and with equally loving, pious, and fatherly affection hast protected and dost protect us with so many celestial favors, permit not in the future that there should be so great forgetfulness of Thy most divine and most holy name in these extensive unknown lands, Nunquid cognosentur in tenebris, mirabilia tua aut justisia tua in terra oblivionis? (Ps. 87) .84 Grant that Thy evangelical workers may come, and that, with Thy celestial favors and with their apostolic toil, all these tribes, especially the many neighboring ones of this North America, may be brought to holy knowledge of Thee and of Thy most divine love, in order that they may praise Thee with Thy chosen ones, the saints of the celestial court throughout all eternity, Vt cognos- camus in terra viam tuam, in omnibus gentibus salutare tuum, confiteantur tibi populi, Deus confiteantur tibi, populi omnis benedicatnos Deus Deus noster benedi- catnos Deus et metuant (et diligant) te omnes finis terra: (Ps. 66). 85 And may these benedictions please my charitable reader, as is my wish. Amen. Nues tra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, December 3, day of the glo- rious apostle of the Indies, San Francisco Xavier, 1699. 83 "Playing in the world" (Prov., viii, 31. Ludens in orbe terrarum et delicid! mete esse cum filiis hominum). The scriptural reference is to wis dom, but in Catholic liturgy the whole passage is applied sometimes to the Word of God, the "Verbum," and sometimes to the Blessed Virgin Mary, who has been called Seat of Wisdom. 84 "Shall Thy wonders be known in the dark, and Thy justice in the land of forgetfulness?" (Psalm lxxxvii, 13). The aut for et indicates again a quotation from memory. We should now write cognoscentur and justitia. 85 "That we may know thy way upon earth, thy salvation in all nations. Let the peoples confess to Thee, O God ; let all the peoples confess to Thee. May God, our own God, bless us, may God bless us. And may all the ends of the earth fear (and love) Thee" (Psalm, Ixvi, 3, 4, 8). Populi omnis for populi omnes, as now written, and omnes fines for omnes finis. The metuant te for metuant eum, and the insertion of et diligant, show intentional freedom in quoting. PART I NEW SPIRITUAL AND TEMPOR- al Conquests in Pimeria, of the King dom of Nueva Biscaya, during the Suspension of the Enterprise of the Conquest and Conversion of Califor nia; and the Events of the Twelve Years from 1687 to 1699 BOOK I. FIRST ENTRY INTO PIMERIA, AND THE BEGINNINGS OF ITS SPIRIT UAL AND TEMPORAL CONQUEST, AND OF ITS CONVERSION TO OUR HOLY CATHOLIC FAITH CHAPTER I. BECAUSE OF THE SUSPENSION OF THE CONQUEST AND CONVERSION OF CALIFORNIA, TWO ALMS ARE ASKED AND OBTAINED FROM THE ROYAL TREASURY FOR TWO MISSIONARY FATHERS FOR THIS COAST AND MAINLAND NEAREST TO CALIFORNIA The enterprise of the conquest and conversion of California, in which I took part for more than two years, with two other fathers of the Company, with the offices of superior, or rector, and of cosmographer of his Majesty, may God preserve him, having been sus pended,86 for twelve years and going on thirteen I have been in this extensive Pimeria, which has a length from north to south of more than one hundred leagues, reach- 86 The reference is to the attempt of Atondo y Antillon to subdue Cali fornia, 1683-1685. See Venegas (Burriel), Noticia de California, vol. iii, 218 et seq. See also references in the "Index" of the present work. Important new material concerning the abandonment of California is con tained in an expediente of correspondence, in the Archivo General de Indias, at Seville (A.G.I. 67-3-28. Audiencia de Guadalajara. Copy in the Ban croft Library). It contains a report on California by the Bishop of Guadala jara, February 18, 1686; Kino to the Bishop of Guadalajara, Torin, May 30, 1685; id. id., Guadalajara, October 10, 1685; id. id., Compostela, November 5, 1685; id. id., Matanchel, November 15, 1685; id. id., on board the Almi- ranta, December 2, 1685; Father Matias Goiies (Goni) to Bishop Garabito, Port of San Ignacio, Sinaloa, September 22, 1685 ; Kino to the Bishop of Guadalajara, Casa Profesa, Mexico, February 15, 1686; Atondo to the Bishop of Guadalajara, Mexico, February 16, 1686. These letters give a clue to Kino's itinerary after leaving California. 106 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. ing from the province and valleys of Sonora almost to the province of Moqui, and a width of as many and even more leagues from east to west, from the land of the Jocomes, Janos, Sumas, Apaches,87 etc., to the arm of the Sea of California. For, on the occasion of this suspension, I asked of the father provincial, who at the time was Father Luys del Canto,88 permission to come to the heathen people of these coasts nearest to the above mentioned California, and when his Reverence said to me that there were no alms from his Majesty for this purpose, I told him that if he would give me per mission I would ask them of his Excellency. He re plied that I should make a report, and with it and one of his own his Reverence asked and obtained two alms for two persons. With one I came at once to this Pimeria, and with the other Father Adan Gil 89 came later to the neighboring Seris. When these alms were conceded, the fiscal of his Majesty, Don Pedro de la Bastilla, may God preserve him, asserted that these coasts would afford the best opportunity possible for continuing afterwards from here with the conquest and conversion of California. Leaving Mexico on November 20, 1686, just after Father Bernabe de Soto had come as provincial, I went to Guadalaxara, whence 87 The Janos and Jocomes, now extinct, dwelt between Casas Grandes, Chihuahua, and the Gila. Bandelier regarded them as the most southern band of Apaches, and as a composite of broken down tribes. Missions were early established among them at Janos and Carretas. See Hodge, Handbook, vol. i, 628 ; Hughes, Anne, Beginnings of Spanish Settlement in the El Paso District (University of California, Publications in History, vol. i). They became absorbed in the main Apache nation. 88 Luis del Canto was provincial in New Spain, 1683-1686. He was suc ceeded by Father Bernabe Soto, long a missionary among the Tepehuanes (Alegre, Historia, vol. iii, 60-61). Soto was still ruling in November, 1689 (ibid., pp. 66-67). 89 Concerning Father Adam Gilg (or Gil), see Stocklein, Letters no. 33 and no. 53. In both he speaks of Kino. See also Huonder, Anton, Deutsche Jesuiten-missionare des 17. und 18. Jahrhunderts, 108. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. r "iby" I set out on December 16, having obtained from the Royal Audiencia the royal provision and the inserted royal cedula which is given in the following chapter.90 CHAPTER II. ROYAL PROVISION AND ROYAL CEDU LA WHICH FAVOR THE NEW CONVERSIONS At the suggestion of the father provincial, Luis del Canto, and of the father provincial elect, Bernabe de Soto, I asked for and obtained from the Royal Au diencia of Guadalaxara, through the very Catholic zeal of the Sefior president, Don Alonso Sevallos y Billa Gutierres, and of the Sefior judge Don Christobal de la Palma, a royal provision to the effect that during five years no natives whatever should be taken out with seals to work, from the^places where I should go for their conversion. I requested this royal provision at a very opportune time, for there had just arrived from Spain the very Catholic royal cedula which orders that for twenty years recent converts to our holy faith shall not be taken away with seals. This royal cedula is dated at Buen Retiro, May 14, of the said year of 1686. It is so very Catholic and so favorable to the new con quests and new conversions that I will insert here some of its notable paragraphs. 90 Important new data concerning Father Kino's negotiations with the au thorities at Guadalajara is contained in an expediente of correspondence in the Archivo General de Indias (A. G. I. Audiencia de Guadalajara, 67-1-36. Transcript in the Bancroft Library). It includes a report by the Audiencia to the King, July 23, 1686, in virtue of the real cedula of May 14, 1686 (quoted in next chapter) ; copy of the cedula of May 14, 1686, by which we are able to check Kino's copy; report to the Audiencia by Father Joseph de Azcarasso, Franciscan, concerning frontier missions, October 9, 1686; negotiations of the Audiencia with various missionary organizations; petition of Eusebio Francisco Kino, "missionary named for the reduction and con version to our Holy Faith of the Seris, Huaymas, and Pimas in the province of Sonora, Kingdom of Nueva Vizcaya," regarding taking Indians under seal to work in mines, undated, but passed on by the Audiencia December 16, 1686; and petition of Father Azcarasso, undated, but considered May 2, 1687. io8 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Well, then, our most Catholic monarch, Don Carlos II, may God preserve him many most happy years, writes as follows: Royal Cedula. Whereas,91 in my Royal Council of the Indies information has been received that twenty-four leagues from Mexico the tribes of heathen Indians begin and that they continue without interruption through the provinces of Nueva Espana, Nueva Galicia, Nueva Biscaya, Nueva Mexico, etc.,92 and 93 that care is not given to their conversion ; and since this is the first and principal obligation of the ministers, to whose ful fillment they should give very particular care and attention, so that the neglect and omission which even here have been noted and experienced may not continue; since for this conversion no escort of soldiers is needed, as the natives show no resistance, and as some nations and districts assist with others ; since this care is the first obligation of the Council, and is kept prominently in mind by it, as in the eighth ordinance I have charged it to do; and wishing to satisfy its conscience, in so far as it may be con cerned, as I have satisfied my own by fulfilling so important an obligation, and by applying all means, endeavors, and requests possible, in order to secure the execution of a thing that is so ser viceable to God, our Lord, who, in his great providence, always returns a very great and notable increase to my monarchy for what is spent from my royal estate in these new conversions ; and wishing to comply with this obligation, which I regard as the principal one of my great desire, I have agreed to issue the pres ent cedula, by which I order and command my viceroy of Nueva Espana and the presidents and judges of my Royal Audiencias of Mexico, Guadalaxara, and Guatemala, and the governors of Nueva Biscaya, that as soon as they shall receive this my cedula they shall exercise very especial care and application to the end 91 A comparison of this copy of the cidula with the official copy in A.G.I. Aud. de Guad., 67-1-36, shows that Kino has omitted numerous phrases of the original, as non-essential to his point, and has paraphrased others. Two ex amples are given in the two notes following. 92 "Y pr. el nuebo Rno. de Leon asta la florida" is omitted by Kino here (see copy in A.G.I. Aud. Guad., 67-1-36). 83 "Y que entre campeche y Guatemala y sus castas del mar del Norte ay otras naciones de Yndios Jentiles y que teniendoles a la puerta y tan imme- diatos," omitted by Kino (see ibid.). onej EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 109 *- — that all the tribes of heathen Indians which may be found in the district and jurisdiction comprised in the government of each audiencia and government district, may be reduced and con verted to our holy Catholic faith,, each one providing, in so far as concerns him, that from now on their reduction and conver sion be undertaken with the mildest and most effective means that can be employed and contrived, entrusting it to the ecclesi astics most satisfactory to them and of the virtue and spirit re quired for so very important a matter, giving to them for the purpose the assistance, favor, and aid that may be necessary, and encouraging them in it in the best manner possible, andjromis^, ing in my name to all newj:otiy.erts_that during the firstjwenty yea*s-oLth|^mita_rtibn they will not be req^medtogive tribute or to serve on estates or in mines, Smce th7s~ fs one of the reasons why they refuse to be converted. And I charge my ministers to notify me at once of the receipt of this dispatch, of what may be done in virtue thereof, and of the condition which this matter may be assuming, so that upon receipt of this information the orders most important for its continuation may be given, because I desire that all time possible be gained in a matter of such im portance and so serviceable to God and to me. Done at Buen Retiro, May 14, 1686. I, the King. CHAPTER III. MY ARRIVAL AT THESE MISSIONS OF SONORA, AND MY FIRST ENTRY INTO THIS PIMERIA, WITH THE FATHER VISITOR, MAN UEL GONZALES With this royal provision and royal cedula, which by its admirable Catholic zeal might well and should astonish and edify the whole world, I came in February of 1687 to these missions of Sonora, and went to Opos- sura to see and talk with the father visitor, who then was Father Manuel Gonzales.94 I found in his Rev erence such charity and so holy a zeal for the welfare 94 According to Bancroft (North Mexican Stales and Texas, vol. i, 252) "Kino went first to the Ures" where he arrived "early in 1687," and where he secured interpreters. For additional data concerning his arrival in Pimeria Alta see volume ii, 76-77, where it appears that Father Belmar entered with him. no MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. of souls, that his Reverence in person came at once more than fifty leagues' journey to this pueblo of Nues tra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, which is five leagues from the old mission of Cucurpe, of the rectorate of San Francisco Xavier de Sonora. On the way we passed by the mining town of San Juan95 and saw the Sefior alcalde mayor, who, with the great respectfulness that characterizes him, gave obedience to the royal cedula and to the royal provision. Coming by the valley of Sonora we saw the father rector of the mission or rec torate, who then was Father Juan Mufios de Burgos, and by the valley and pueblo of Opodepe, Tuape, and Cocorpe,96 divisions or pueblos then administered by Father Josep[h] de Aguilar; and on the thirteenth of March, 1687,97 we three Fathers together came to Nues tra Sefiora de Ios Dolores del Bamotze,98 or de Cosari, having the day before notified the natives. Their gov ernor was absent, but, nevertheless, they received us with all love, for, months and years before they had asked for fathers and holy baptism. 95 Real de San Juan was situated some forty leagues eastward from Dolores, and an equal distance southward of Arizpe. It was at this time the seat of government of the alcaldia mayor of Sonora. 96 Cucurpe was thus the frontier mission of Sonora at this time. Indeed, this fact is stated by Kino himself in his letter of May 13, 1687. The place, still in existence, is a few miles south of the site of mission Dolores, in the San Miguel River Valley. 97 Bancroft states that the mission of N.S. de Ios Dolores was "founded" on the thirteenth of March. This may be true, in the sense of going through certain formalities of the founding. But none of the sources which I have seen state that even this was the case. Kino does not; Ortega states that on the thirteenth Kino reached the place where he founded the mission (Apos tdlicos Afanes, p. 246) ; Alegre says that from the Real de San Juan he went to the place where he afterward founded the mission (Historia, vol. iii, 61). In his letter of May 13, 1687, Kino states that on the thirteenth Father Gon zalez baptized one infirm Indian, but says nothing of the founding of the mission. See Alegre, Historia, vol. iii, 62, for more light. 98 In his letter of May 13, 1687, Kino calls this place "Tschinnas de Bamuschil" (Stocklein, Neue Welt-Bott, Theil i, 109). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. m The following day99 the father visitor, leaving us fathers and the children with a very paternal goodbye, returned toward Oposura to the necessary occupations of Holy Week, etc., suggesting to Father Aguilar and me that we should see later if there was opportunity to go somewhat further inland to seek and find a place where a second pueblo might be founded. CHAPTER IV. EXPEDITION TO SAN YGNACIO DE CABORICA, SAN JOSEPH DE LOS HIMIRIS, AND NUESTRA SEftORA DE LOS REMEDIOS Upon this advice of the father visitor we at once, the very same day, went inland to the west, and after going ten leagues found the very good post of Caborica,100 in habited by affable people, which by order of the father visitor we named San Ygnacio.101 Then, turning to the north, we found another good post, with plenty of do cile and domesticated people. This place we named San Joseph de Ios Himires.102 To the east we found an- 99 From this time until January, 1691, Kino's movements have been little known (see Apostdlicos Afanes, 247-249; Alegre, Historia, vol. iii, 61-73; Ban croft, op. cit., vol. i, 253), and the contribution of the Favores Celestiales at this point is therefore highly important. It is supplemented by some details in the letter of May 13, 1687. 100 Bancroft says, "It seems to have been called S. Ignacio Caborca at first, but ... as there was another pueblo known as Caborca," etc. (Bancroft, North Mexican States, vol. i, 253). Is it not an error of the Afanes that Caborica was called Caborca? Caborca is on the lower Altar River, a few leagues from the Gulf. For frequent references to this place, see "Index." 101 In his letter of May 13 Kino states that the name San Ignacio was given to the village which the natives called Himires. Plainly either the letter or the Favores is wrong, and there is no doubt that it is the letter. In that document he gives Himires as the first of the three places visited. It seems that, writing two months after the visit, he got the names of the places con fused. 102 San Jose de Ios Hymeris (Alegre, Historia, vol. iii, 62) ; San Jose de Imuris, on the Rio San Ignacio, some twenty-five or thirty miles across the mountains from Dolores (Bancroft, op. tit, vol. i, 253) ; San Joseph and Los Remedios were named on the fifteenth (Kino, Letter of May 13, 1687). 112 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. other, likewise of industrious Indians, which we named Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios. It is distant from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores seven leagues, to the north.103 In all places they received with love the Word of God for the sake of their eternal salvation.104 We returned, thanks to the Lord, safe and rejoicing, to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores.105 Father Aguilar went on to Cucurpe, and I began to catechize the people and to baptize children. The governor of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores came from inland and by him and others I sent to various and even remote parts of this Pimeria divers messages and friendly invitations, requesting that they should endeavor likewise to become Christians, saying that for them would be the good and the ad vantage, for I had come to aid them in order that they might be eternally saved. CHAPTER V. FIRST OPPOSITION EXPERIENCED IN THIS NEW CONVERSION Being always very much aided in everything by the great charity of Father Joseph de Aguilar, by Divine grace everything went, on the part of the natives, with entire prosperity, pleasantness, and satisfaction, and there were welcome additions,106 but on the part of oth- 103 Alegre says "seven leagues east" (Historia, vol. iii, 62) ; Ortega (Apos tdlicos Afanes, p. 246), gives it as north. Bancroft says "between Dolores and Imuris" (op. tit., vol. i, 253). See "Map" and "Index." 10i At this point Alegre falls into evident error, stating that later N.S. de Ios Dolores and San Ignacio were put into Kino's charge, the other places being abandoned (Historia, vol. iii, 62). Ortega (Apostdlicos Afanes, 247) correctly states that Los Remedios and Dolores remained in Kino's charge, "que siempre hasta su muerte administro el padre Kino." See post, page 118, where Kino states that he had already taken charge of Los Remedios in January, 1691. 105 On March 26 (Kino, Letter of May 13, 1687). 106 gy 14^ ,3) l6g7> Kino had baptized at Dolores thirty children and youths, including two sons of the cacique. Before the end of April he had built a chapel (Bethaus) and "a very poor parsonage (Pfarrhof)." (Kino, Letter of May 13, 1687). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, SJ. 113 ers there was no lack of hostility, which has endured up to the present day. A false report was despatched to the Sefior alcalde-mayor of the mining town of San Juan, that these natives, on the coming of the father missionary, had moved far away. These serious but false reports reached the father visitor, Manuel Gon zales, troubling his Reverence greatly, and he wrote to Tuape, where the three fathers, Joseph de Aguilar, Antonio de Roxas, and I were holding Holy Week,106a with more than one hundred Pimas of this new pueblo of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. Of the Pimas there were about forty107 recently baptized infants and chil dren, whom the Spanish ladies of the mining town of Opodepe dressed richly and adorned with their orna ments and best jewels, like new Christians, for the Pro cession of the Blessed Sacrament, to the great delight of all; nor was there the least truth in the pretended with drawal of the natives, which so falsely was reported to the mining town of San Juan. All this we wrote to the father visitor for his consolation, we three fathers sign ing the letter. CHAPTER VI. SECOND OPPOSITION AND DISCORD SOWN IN PIMERIA Returning from Holy Week and Easter at Tuape to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, I went inland to San Ygnacio and San Joseph de Ios Himires, where in all places things were going very well, in spiritual and temporal matters, in Christian teaching, beginnings of baptisms, buildings, planting of crops, etc., but in Nues tra Sefiora de Ios Remedios I found the people so dis consolate that they said to me openly that they neither ioea Holy Week in 1687 fell between March 23 and March 30. 107 It seems that Kino took his neophytes from Dolores to Tuape to cele brate Holy Week. This may have been because his mission was only im perfectly established. ii4 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. wished to be Christians nor to have a missionary father. On asking them why, they answered me, first, because they had heard it said that the fathers ordered the peo ple hanged and killed ; second, because they required so much labor and sowing for their churches that no oppor tunity was left the Indians to sow for themselves ; third, because they pastured so many cattle that the watering places were drying up ; fourth, because they killed the people with the holy oils ; fifth, because they deceived the Indians with false promises and words, and because I had falsely said that I had a letter or royal cedula of the king our Sovereign, whereas I had no such letter, for if I had I would have shown it to the Sefior lieu tenant of Bacanuche. These chimeras, discords, and altercations disturbed me very much, but I recognized at once whence they might have come; and although the father visitor and I had shown the royal provision which I carried, with the royal cedula inserted, to the Sefior alcalde-mayor in the mining town of San Juan, which was sufficient there, within two days (on the tenth of May) I went with the justices108 of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores to the mining town of Baca nuche,109 which is twenty leagues away. I showed the royal provision and the royal cedula to the Sefior lieu tenant, Captain Francisco Pacheco Zevallos, in whom I found all kindness, and told him of what had hap pened in Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios because of the untruths which had been spread so falsely during the preceding days against the fathers. And gradually things were remedied and the calumnies of the mali- cious and of the common enemy hushed, and although 108 These were evidently native officials. 109 Bacanuche, a real, or mining camp, about twenty leagues northeast of Dolores and the same distance north of Arizpe and south of Cananea. It is situated on the Bacanuche River, a branch of the Sonora. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 115 there was no lack of stories and pretended dangers from persons of little loyalty, the natives of this Pimeria be came so inclined to our holy faith that from places fur ther inland, from El Tupo, El Tubutama, and other parts, they asked for fathers and holy baptism. CHAPTER VII. THE FATHER VISITOR, MANUEL GON ZALES, VISITS THESE THREE NEW PUEBLOS OF THIS PIMERIA, FOR WHICH FOUR OTHER MISSION ARY FATHERS ARE ASKED AND OBTAINED Because of the news of the good beginnings and of the baptisms of infants at this new mission of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, the father provincial, Bernave de Soto, who had been missionary for many years, was so much comforted that his Reverence wrote me that he would very willingly exchange his office of provincial for mine of missionary, in order to be able to baptize children, since in the provincial office his time was wast ed, while here in the missions there was profit. On January 19, 1689, the father visitor, Manuel Gon zales, came on his first visit to these new pueblos. He went to San Ygnacio, San Joseph, Cocospora, Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios, etc., and would have gone much further inland, even to the tribe of El Soba, if the bogs caused by the spring rains110 and those of the River of San Ygnacio had not spoiled the roads for us and obstructed the passes. In Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Do lores he was so pleased by the structure of the church and the house which had been begun, the Christian teaching, the devotion at prayers, the book of baptisms, the singing school, the rich lands and crops, etc., that his Reverence said and wrote that he had not seen a new 110 The details given in this chapter are almost entirely omitted from the standard authorities, and, as will be seen, Bancroft falls into positive error in connection with the matters discussed. 116 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA mission which enjoyed, in so short a time, so many con veniences and such progress in spiritual and temporal matters. Moreover, a little later his Reverence, to gether with the Sefior alcalde-mayor, Bias del Castillo, asked and obtained from Mexico four new fathers for this Pimeria, and assigned them to the following four new missions : 11X Father Luys Maria Pineli to San Yg nacio, Santa Maria Magdalena, and San Miguel del Tupo ; Father Antonio Arras llla to San Pedro del Tubu tama and San Antonio de Uquetoa; Father Pedro San Doval to San Lorenzo del Saric, and San Ambrosio del Tucubabia ; and Father Juan del Castillejo to Santiago de Cocospera, San Lazaro, and Santa Maria. They came in and accomplished some good in this Pimeria, but the opposition, obstacles, and false reports to the effect that so many fathers were not needed, since the people were very few, very much retarded and almost entirely put a stop to matters. And now enter the new government, the new father provincial, and the new father visitor. 111 Bancroft, citing the Apostdlicos Afanes, writes "but from the very first years exaggerated and absurd rumors of their [the Indians'] ferocity are vaguely alluded to as having kept away other padres and greatly troubled the pioneer, who, nevertheless kept on alone [the italics are mine], and before 1690 had fine churches in each of his villages;" (North Mexican States and Texas, vol. i, 253). In his Arizona and New Mexico, 352, Bancroft writes: "For six years he toiled alone, till fathers Campos and Januske came in 1693 to take charge of San Ignacio and Tubutama; and only eight padres besides Kino worked in this field during the latter's life, there being rarely, if ever, more than four at the same time." Ortega correctly states that the new mis sionaries arrived, but does not give details. He adds that they could not remain because it was judged that they were more needed elsewhere (Apos tdlicos Afanes, 247). Alegre (Historia, vol. iii, 74) puts under 1690 the order for the retirement of the missionaries from "Los Remedios and S. Jose de Ios Hymeris." For both of these, see "Index." 111a "Arias." See post, page 118 and volume ii, 141. BOOK II. VISIT AND TRIENNIUM OF THE FATHER VISITOR JUAN MARIA SAL VATIERRA, 1690, 1 69 1, 1692 CHAPTER I. THE NEW FATHER VISITOR, JUAN MARIA SALVATIERRA, COMES TO VISIT THE FOUR FATHERS OF THIS PIMERIA IN THEIR DISTRICTS The new government having entered, and Father Ambrosio Oddon having come as provincial, his Rever ence designated Father Juan Maria de Salvatierra, who was stationed in Los Chinipas,112 as visitor of these mis sions of Sonora and Sinaloa, and me, though unworthy, as rector of this rectorate or mission of San Francisco Xavier de Sonora and of this Pimeria. His Reverence having heard so many reports for and against this Pi meria, he ordered Father Visitor Juan M'aria Salva tierra to come and visit it and acquaint himself with it. The father visitor came to this district of Nuestra Se fiora de Ios Dolores on the twenty-fourth of December, 1690.113 He held Christmas service here and sang 112 Bancroft locates the old mission of Chinipa (Chinipas) on an upper branch of the Mayo River (North Mexican States, vol. i, 208). Today Chinipas is the name of a branch of the Fuerte River flowing through the same general mountain region. The Chinipas mission was Salvatierra's principal station before he went to California. Chinipas is not to be con fused with Chinapas, north of Arizpe. 118 Bancroft (op. tit., vol. i, 254) following Alegre (Historia, vol. iii, 73) states that Salvatierra "met Kino at Dolores in the spring of 1691." The Favores thus corrects this slight mistake. At this point Bancroft falls into a more serious error, refusing to follow the authorities who had seen the Favores of whose existence he was unaware. Commenting on Salvatierra's visit in 1691 he says that Alegre "strangely speaks of Tubutama, Saric, and other rancherias as missions already founded, although at most they could only have been visited by Kino and a few children baptized. Sill more u8 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [VoL mass in this new and capacious church, although it was not entirely completed. He then went inland for more than forty leagues, visiting this Pimeria for a month.114 We went in from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios, a distance of seven leagues. I was already taking this pueblo under my care, for the people were still much deceived because of the discord that had been sown against the fathers. We went on to the valley and pueblo of San Joseph de Ios Himires, a distance of six leagues, at which place was Father Pedro de San Doval, for the time being, with seventy families. We went down to San Ygnacio, a distance of three leagues, and to Santa Maria Magda lena and Tupo, where Father Luys Maria Pineli was. There were many people in all these places. We continued to San Pedro del Tubutama, a journey of ten leagues from El Tupo, where Father Antonio Arias was stationed, and found more than five hun dred souls. Some of the chief men of the neighboring tribe of El Soba also came to see the father visitor, and, as we celebrated there the Pascua de Reyes, I preached to them from the text Reges de Saba veniunt;115 and we discussed the reduction of the Pimas of El Soba, who extend on the west and northwest to the Sea of Califor nia. We proceeded to El Saric and Tucubavia, a strangely he speaks of padres being ordered to retire from Remedios and Imuris, although there had been no padres there at all" (op. cit., vol. i, 254). From the above paragraph and the statements on page 116 it is clear that Bancroft is mistaken, not to mention his temerity in trying to establish a negative by mere assertion. 114 From the next paragraph it is clear that the month covered Kino's trip with Salvatierra, and that Kino does not mean that Salvatierra first made a trip alone. 116 "Kings come from Saba" (Isaias, lx, 6. Omnes de Saba venient. Psalm Ixxi, io. Reges Arabum et Saba dona adducent). Both passages are used in the "grace at meals" on the feast and during the octave of the Epiphany. The intermingling of the texts is therefore quite natural. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 119 journey of ten leagues, where we counted more than seven hundred souls, who received us everywhere with great pleasure to themselves and to us. Almost every where they gave the father visitor infants to baptize, and presented us with many supplies, etc. CHAPTER II. THE SOBAIPURIS AND OTHER NATIVES COME FROM THE NORTH TO MEET US 116 It was our intention to turn back from El Tucubavia to Cocospera, but from the north some messengers or couriers of the Sobaipuris of San Xavier del Bac, more than forty leagues' journey, and from San Cayetano del Tumagacori,117 came to meet us, with some crosses, which they gave us, kneeling with great veneration, / and asking us on behalf of all their people to go to their V rancherias also. The father visitor said to me that those crosses which they carried were tongues that spoke volumes and with great force, and that we could not fail to go where by means of them they called us. Whereupon we ascended to the Valley of Guebavi,118 a journey of about fifteen leagues, and arrived at the rancheria of San Cayetano del Tumagacori, where there were some of the Sobaipuris headmen, who had come twenty and twenty-five leagues from the north. In San Cayetano they had prepared us three arbors, one in which to say mass, another in which to sleep, and 116 For an account of this event see Alegre, Historia, vol. iii, 73. Ban croft is in a state of doubt at this point. He says: "Kino may have crossed the line as far as Tumacacori with Salvatierra in 1691, and he is said to have reached Bac in 1692; but the records of these earliest entradas are vague" (Arizona and New Mexico, 355). This vagueness is now dispelled by Kino's writings. 117 Tumacacori (Tumagacori) is located in the Santa Cruz valley between Mission San Xavier del Bac and Nogales. The ruins of the old mission are still there. See "Map" and "Index." 118 For the location of Guevavi see the "Map." The ruins of the Guevavi mission were still visible when the spot was visited by the editor a few years ago. 120 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. the third for a kitchen. There were more than forty houses close together. Some infants were baptized, and the father visitor gave good hopes to all that they should obtain the fathers, the holy baptism, and the boon of their eternal salvation which they requested. When his Reverence had seen so many people, so docile and so affable, with such beautiful, fertile, and pleasant valleys, inhabited by industrious Indians, he said to me these words: "My Father Rector, not only shall the re moval from this Pimeria of any of the four fathers as signed to it not be considered, but four more shall come, and by the divine grace I shall try to be one ol them." We went on to the rancheria of Guebaui and to the val ley and rancheria of Santa Maria, a journey of fifteen leagues, where we remained five days, catechizing and baptizing infants and adults.119 We then came to Co- cospera, and this new pueblo was given over to Father San Doval. In all of these journeys the father visitor and I talked together of suspended California, saying that these very fertile lands and valleys of this Pimeria would be the support of the scantier and more sterile lands of California, concerning which he made a report to Mexico.120 118 This passage, or more probably that in Apostdlicos Afanes, 249, seems to be the basis for the statement of Velasco (Sonora, 139) that the Guevavi mission was founded during this trip (Bancroft, op. cit., vol. i, 254). Manje makes it appear that Salvatierra and Kino went no further than Tucubavia on this entrada. As Manje's record is that of a contemporary diary, it should not be considered lightly, but here it is manifestly wrong. 120 Clavijero states that Salvatierra's interest in California came through information given him by Father Kino regarding the natives (Hist, de la Antigua 6 Baja California, 39). Reference is evidently made to the confer ences had during this trip. See also Apostdlicos Afanes, 250; Alegre, His toria, vol. iii, 74; and Bancroft, op. tit., vol. i, 254. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 121 CHAPTER III. REPORT OF THE CONDITION OF THIS PIMERIA BY THE FATHER VISITOR TO THE FATHER PROVINCIAL, AMBROSIO ODDON, AND THE REPLY OF THE FATHER PROVINCIAL JANUARY, 1691. We remained in Cocospera five days more, at the end of January, [i6]9i, catechizing and baptizing the infants and the adults who had learned the prayers and the Christian doctrine, and pre paring and writing a report of what had been sent to Mexico and to the father provincial, Ambrosio Od don. He, in virtue of what the father visitor wrote and reported, and of my letter, replied to me in the following words : I thank your Reverence from my heart for the holy zeal with which you devote yourself to the welfare of those souls, as shown by the relation or report that I have received from the father vis itor, Juan Maria Salvatierra. There is no reason for growing weary because things pertaining to the service of God have their obstacles, so much the more noticeable when they are vested with zeal and founded on erring judgment. The father visitor having left us all instructed and consoled by his holy visit to this Pimeria, his Reverence went to visit the rectorate of the Holy Martyrs of Japan, commending to me, with his holy zeal, the reduction of the Sobaipuris of the north and of the Sobas to the west, and, with respect to California, even the building of a small bark in which to go there. His Reverence went afterwards to his mission of Chinipas, while here the customary obstacles and opposition were so great that when, as usual, the Hocomes, Janos, and Sumas carried off various herds and droves from this province and its frontiers, these offenses were imputed, though falsely, v/ to the Pimas, and their conversion and the coming of i the missionary fathers were completely prevented.121 121 For the same matter see Alegre, vol. iii, 72-73, who adds the Chinarras. 122 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. CHAPTER IV. JOURNEY NORTHWARD TO THE SOBAIPURIS AUGUST 23, 1692. In spite of the obstacles which were present, and seeing that the whole of Pimeria was quiet, during the last part of August and the first part of September, 1692, I went in, with fifty pack-animals, my servants, and some justices, to the Sobaipuris, both of the north and of the northeast. The latter are in the valleys of the river of Quiburi, to the east, and the former are in the valley and river of Santa Maria, to the west. The journey to the former was more than eighty leagues by very level road. I found the natives very affable and friendly, and particularly so in the principal rancheria of San Xavier del Bac, which con tains more than eight hundred souls. I spoke to them of the Word of God, and on a map of the world showed them the lands, the rivers, and the seas over which we fathers had come from afar to bring them the saving knowledge of our holy faith. And I told them also how in ancient times the Spaniards were not Christians, how Santiago came to teach them the faith, and how for the first fourteen years he was able to baptize only a few, because of which the holy apostle was discouraged, but that the most holy Virgin ap peared to him and consoled him, telling him that the Spaniards would convert the rest of the people of the world. And I showed them on the map of the world how the Spaniards and the faith had come by sea to Vera Cruz, and had gone in to Puebla and to Mexico, Guadalaxara, Sinaloa, and Sonora, and now to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores del Cosari, in the land of the Pimas, where there were already many persons bap- and changes Sumas to Yumas. Also Apostdlicos Afanes, 250-251, and Ban croft, op. tit., vol. i, 253-254. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 123 tized, a house, church, bells, and images of saints, plen tiful supplies, wheat, maize, and many cattle and horses; that they could go and see it all, and even ask at once of their relatives, my servants, who were with me. They listened with pleasure to these and other talks concerning God, heaven, and hell, and told me that they wished to be Christians, and gave me some infants to baptize. These Sobaipuris are in a very fine valley of the Rio de Santa Maria,122 to the west. I then passed on to the other Sobaipuris, of the east, on the Rio de San Joseph de Terrenate, or de Qui- buri,123 who, in their chief rancheria, that of San Sal vador del Baicatcan, are thirty leagues distant. Cap tain Coro and the rest of them received me with all kindness. It is true that I found them still somewhat less docile than the foregoing of the west. CHAPTER V. EXPEDITION OR MISSION WESTWARD TO THE NATION OF EL SOBA, EVEN TO THE SEA OF CALIFORNIA, UNTIL CALIFORNIA ITSELF WAS SEEN December ii of 1693. In the meantime, Father Diego de Almonazir came as provincial and Juan Mufios de Burgos as father visitor, and from the eleventh until the twenty-fourth of December I went west to the Pima nation which they call that of El Soba, who is their chief cacique, or head and captain of these more than four thousand Indians.124 He has al- 122 The modern Santa Cruz River, which flows north from the Sonora border, past Guebavi, Tumacacori, and San Xavier del Bac, and is lost in the Arizona plateau before reaching the Gila. 123 The modern San Pedro River, a branch of the Gila. 124 Ortega (Apostdlicos Afanes, 251) regards this entry as belonging under 1692, evidently considering it out of place in the narrative. Bancroft, for reasons which he does not state, but which may be inferred, suggests that the expedition was more likely made early in 1693 (op. tit., vol. i, 254). 124 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. ways been very valiant in various wars that he has had with the Pimas of the east, and since the time when, ten or twelve years ago, those of El Soba killed the governor called El Podenco, of this rancheria, now pueblo, of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, they had been very hostile to each other. Our Lord was pleased, however, that we should restore peace between them. Thereupon, I entered with Father Agustin de Campos, Capt. Sebastian Romero, and my servants, and found the people affable, except that in some places they ap peared afraid, wondering at the new and white faces, which they had never seen before. After about eight leagues' journey we came to a little peak which we named El Nasareno, and from its sum- But the entry is evidently correct as here given, the trouble being with that in chapter vi referring to an expedition in July. Confining ourselves for the present to the Favores text, it is to be noted that in chapter vi, Kino uses the phrase "This same year of 93," and that chapter vii is headed "Second and Third Expeditions to the Sea of California.'' From these two items we would infer that Kino meant to state that only one expedition had been made to the gulf before that of February, 1694, and that this was in 1693. And there is no doubt that this was the case. But the confusion makes a some what extended explanation necessary. For the expeditions of 1694 to the coast Manje's diaries, preserved in the Luz de Tierra Incognita, libro ii, are the unquestioned authority. They make it clear that Kino and Campos had made an expedition in 1693, as Kino relates, but that only one had been made (Capitulo i) ; that after this trip Kino hastened to the Real de San Juan to get military support for the continuation of his discoveries and missionary work on the coast (Manje, Luede Tierra Incognita, libro ii, cap. i) ; and that Kino and Manje made three expeditions to the coast in 1694. The first of these was made in February, by Kino, Kapus, and Manje, when they [again?] climbed the Cerro de Nazareno and explored the coast. In March Kino and Manje made a second trip, during which the beginning of boat-building, as described by Kino, was made, while Manje explored the coast. In June they went the third time, Kino to supervise the boat-building while Manje explored. But the building of the boat was suspended by order of the Father Visitor, Juan de Burgos (Manje, Luz de Tierra Incognita, libro ii, capitulos ii and iii). Thus I conclude that Kino's statements in chapter v are correct; that in chapters v-vii he gives the correct number of expeditions for 1693 and 1694, but that the trip spoken of in chapter vi, as of July, 1693, was clearly that of June, 1694, and that the last one mentioned in chapter vii was that of June, 1694. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 125 mit on the fifteenth of December we saw clearly more than twenty-five continuous leagues of the land of Cali fornia, for it is not more than fifteen or eighteen leagues across to the principal rancheria. At the request of Father Antonio Leal, who was in Arispe, we named it La Consepcion de Nuestra Sefiora del Caborca, and his Reverence offered to our Lady the mass of the day of San Francisco Xavier for the good success of this ex pedition to Caborca. CHAPTER VI. DEDICATION OF THE CHURCH OF NUESTRA SE5JORA DE LOS DOLORES On April 26 of this same year of [i6]93, this new church of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores was solemnly dedicated. To this ceremony came the father rector of Matape, Marcos de Loyola, the father visitor, Juan Mufios de Burgos, who said mass, and Father George Lostinski, of San Ygnacio, who preached. Likewise there came very many Pimas from the north and from the west. In July,125 also, I went inland to the nation of El Soba with lieutenant Juan Matheo Manje, and we be gan the construction of a bark, cutting the timbers and some large planks.126 The rest of the timbers, flooring, and futtocks were made here in Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, with the idea of carrying the whole bark in four parts to the sea by mules, and there to put it to gether, nail it, calk it, and pass to the nearby Cali fornia. But afterward opposition likewise delayed and hindered matters, although our Lord was able to 125 As stated in the note above, this was clearly the expedition of March- April, 1694, 'he details of which are described in Manje's diary in Luz de Tierra Incognita, vol. ii, cap. iii. This paragraph in Kino's Ms. is, there fore, but of place. 126 The details of this expedition are described by Manje in his diary, op. tit., cap. 1. 126 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. order other things, even better, as will be seen later in connection with what is already being done in Cali fornia.CHAPTER VII. SECOND AND THIRD EXPEDITIONS TO THE SEA OF CALIFORNIA February, 1694. In February, 1694, I made an other expedition to the same waters of the Sea of Cali fornia, in company with Father Marcos Antonio Ka- pus,126a who was stationed in Cucurpe, and Lieutenant Juan Matheo Manje. We again saw very clearly the same California and its principal and larger hills. We named them San Marcos, San Matheo, San Juan (for the name of San Lucas is already given to the Cape of California), and San Antonio, as may be seen on the map. The natives of the nation of El Soba we found so friendly that, having come thirty, forty, and fifty leagues' journey from the north to see us, they gave us their infants to baptize. A few months later127 I made another expedition with Lieut. Juan Matheo Manje, to this nation and to the sea, and we discovered the good port of Santa Sa bina on the day of that saint. During these months and the preceding ones there was built in La Consepcion del Caborica a capacious earth-covered hall of adobe and earth, and wheat and 126a Marcus Anton Kapps [Kapus, Kappus, Khappus] was an Austrian, born at Steinbiichel, in Krain, 1657. He entered the Jesuit order October 27, 1676; became prominent in the Sonora missions; died November 20, 1717. A letter by him dated at Matape, June 20, 1699, is in Stocklein, Der Neue Welt-Bott, num. 56, Theil ii, 86. See ibid., Theil i, 100, ii, 77, vii, 78, and Huonder, op. tit., p. no; also Sommervogel, Bibliotheque. 127 This was evidently the third expedition of 1694, described by Manje, in his diary, op. cit., cap. iii. During this journey Manje explored the coast. Lumholtz (New Trails in Mexico, 146-149) gives interesting data concern ing Caborca, including a picture of the old church. The title of this valuable book is peculiarly inappropriate, since Lumholtz's travels were chiefly over "old trails," most of which were well known to Father Kino more than two hundred years ago. Compare his map with mine. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 127 maize were sown for the father whom they were asking for and hoping to obtain. CHAPTER VIII. EXPEDITION OR MISSION TO THE NORTH AND NORTHWEST FOR MORE THAN ONE HUNDRED LEAGUES, AS FAR AS TO THE RIO GRANDE AND THE CASA GRANDE, AND THE DISCOVERY OF THE TWO NEW NATIONS, THE OPA AND THE COCOMARICOPA In November, 1694, I went inland128 with my ser vants and some justices of this Pimeria, as far as the casa grande, as these Pimas call it, which is on the large River of Hila that flows out of Nuevo Mexico and has its source near Acoma. This river and this large house 128 Manje was not on this journey with Father Kino, but in June, 1694, while Kino was at Caborca, Manje had explored northward from San Pedro del Tubutama, going through the native settlements of Gutubur, Saric, Busanic, and Tucubavia. He says at this point, "hasta aqui es lo mas q havia entrado o llegado 3 anos antes el R. Pe. Juan Maria de Salvatierra en su Visita" (op. cit., Ms. p. 26). But note ante that Kino gives circum stantial details of a visit with Salvatierra to Tumacacori and Guevavi. Neither does Manje mention Kino's journey of August-September, 1692 (for what reason is not clear). From Tucubavia Manje continued on to Gubo and Cups, where he heard of the Casas Grandes to the north, and where he turned southward through Moicaqui to Caborca (Diary, in Manje, op. cit., 28). In May, 1694, Lieutenant Antonio Solis went north among the Sobaipuris of the Rio de Terrenate, and crossed the Sierra del Comedio to San Xavier del Bac (Manje, op. cit., pp. 30-31). The importance of this chapter in the Favores, as placing on a solid foundation the assertion that Kino made the expedition, and as giving some of its details, is considerable. Manje makes only brief mention of the fact that the trip was made, and Bancroft is skep tical of the more complete account in the Afanes. Its soundness is now established (Manje, Historia, 34; Ortega, Apostdlicos Afanes, 252-253; Ban croft, Arizona and New Mexico, 355 ; North Mexican States and Texas, vol. >, 259)- As has already been seen, Manje, in 1694, had made an excursion north ward to Tucubavia, where he had heard of the Gila River and the Casa Grande. According to Manje, Kino was skeptical of the truth of the story, until it was verified by some Pimas of San Xavier del Bac who went to Dolores to visit him, and who accompanied him as guides on the expe dition (Manje, op. cit., 34). 128 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. and the neighboring houses are forty-three leagues be yond and to the northwest of the Sobaipuris of San Francisco Xavier del Bac. The first rancheria, that of El Tusonimo, we named La Encarnacion, as we ar rived there to say mass on the first Sunday in Advent; and because many other Indians came to see us from the rancheria of El Coatoydag, which was four leagues further on, we named the latter San Andres, as the fol lowing day was the feast of that holy apostle.1283 All were affable and docile people. They told us of two friendly nations living further on, all down the river to the west, and to the northwest on the Rio Azul, and still further, on the Rio Colorado. These nations are the Opas and Cocomaricopas. They speak a language very different [from that of the Pimas], though it is very clear, and as there were some who knew both languages very well, I at once and with ease made a vocabulary of the said tongue, and also a map of those lands, measuring the sun with the astrolabe. The casa grande123 is a four-story building, as large as a castle and equal to the largest church in these lands of Sonora. It is said that the ancestors of Montezuma deserted and depopulated it, and, beset by the neigh boring Apaches, left for the east or Casas Grandes, and that from there they turned towards the south and southwest, finally founding the great city and court of i28a Bancroft's mistrust of the Afanes leads him here into needless error. He states (North Mexican States and Texas,vo\. 1,259) that it is "implied" by the Afanes that Kino named these two rancherias. But the Afanes clearly asserts this fact, and does not merely imply it. I believe that the Favores is the only authority which identifies these rancherias with the native names. 129 On the Ms. of the Luz de Tierra Incdgnita there is a drawing of the Casa Grande, presumably by Manje (p. 57). There is also one made in 1776 on one of the original diaries of Juan Bautista de Anza. Father Kino evidently had more knowledge of the Coronado expedition than Ban croft gives him credit for (North Mexican States and Texas, vol. i, 259). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 129 Mexico. Close to this casa grande there are thirteen smaller houses, somewhat more dilapidated, and the ruins of many others, which make it evident that in ancient times there had been a city here. On this occa sion and on later ones I have learned and heard, and at times have seen, that further to the east, north, and west there are seven or eight more of these large old houses and the ruins of whole cities, with many broken metates and jars, charcoal, etc. These certainly must be the Seven Cities mentioned by the holy man, Fray Marcos de Niza, who in his long pilgrimage came clear to the Bacapa rancheria of these coasts, which is about sixty leagues southwest from this casa grande, and about twenty leagues from the Sea of California. The guides or interpreters must have given his Reverence the information which he has in his book concerning these Seven Cities, although certainly at that time, and for a long while before, they must have been deserted. The natives and children of the Pimas, Opas, and Co comaricopas were very well pleased. 129a 129a Manje gives the following description of the ruins about Casa Grande in 1697. "We continued west, and after going four leagues more arrived at noon at the 'casas grandes', within which mass was said by Father Kino, who had not yet breakfasted. One of the houses is a large edifice whose principal room in the middle is of four stories, those adjoining its four sides being of three. Its walls are two varas thick, are made of strong cement and clay, and are so smooth on the inside that they resemble planed boards, and so polished that they shine like Puebla pottery. The angles of the windows, which are square, are very true and without jambs or cross pieces of wood, and they must have made them with a mold or frame. The same is true of the doors, although they are narrow, by which we know it to be the work of Indians. It is 36 paces long and 21 wide. It is well built, as is seen from the drawing on the margin, and has foundations. An arquebus-shot away are seen twelve other half fallen houses, also having thick walls, and all with their roofs burned." (Luz de Tierra Incognita, libro ii, cap. 5). See also Lumholtz, op. tit., 340-342; Hodge, Handbook, part i, 209, and authorities there cited. BOOK III. ARRIVAL OF THE VENERABLE FATHER FRANCISCO XAVIER SAETA AT THESE NEW CONVERSIONS; HIS APOS TOLIC FERVOR, WORK, ZEAL, AND HOLY LETTERS; HIS GLORIOUS, INNOCENT DEATH; AND VARIOUS LETTERS PROPHETIC OF THE GREAT FRUIT OF THESE CONVERSIONS CHAPTER I. EXPEDITION OF THE VENERABLE FATHER FRANCISCO XAVIER SAETA TO HIS NEW MISSION OF NUESTRA SE5JORA DE LA CON- SEPSION DEL CABORICA 130 Although I have written another little treatise131 of more than twenty sheets concerning the glorious, in nocent death of the venerable Father Francisco Xavier Saeta, I may say here, in brief, that this very zealous, apostolic man was of the very best blood of Cicilia,132 and now his blood is very glorious and most fortunate, 130 On the coming of Father Saeta to Pimeria, the founding of the mission of Nuestra Sefiora de la Concepcion de Caborca, and the events there before the death of Father Saeta, the following eight chapters are by far the best account. Hitherto the acount by Ortega in Apostdlicos Afanes (254-257)1 which is based directly on these chapters, has been the best. Manje (Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 35-36) gives some additional details, but his chron ology is defective. By following him instead of the Afanes, Bancroft as signs the founding of the mission to the year 1695, though he mentions the contradictory evidence in the Afanes in a footnote (North Mexican States and Texas, vol. i, 259). The authenticity of Kino's account, based on the original letters quoted here, is unquestionable. 131 So far as the editor is aware, this pamphlet has not been known to earlier students, nor is its present whereabouts known to the editor. See the "Bibliography." See also volume ii, 158. 132 The Ms. reads "Guila" ; the Afanes reads "Cicilia," which is probably correct. EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 131 since it was shed in the apostolic ministry, preach ing and spreading our holy Catholic faith. The venerable father came from Mexico133 to the new conversions of this Pimeria about the middle of Oc tober, 1694, and I, setting out by order of the supe riors from this district of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Do lores on October 19,134 went on the twenty-first to leave his Reverence in the new district that was assigned to him, which was that of Nuestra Sefiora de la Consep- sion del Caborica, in the nation of El Soba. It is forty- four leagues west from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores and only twenty from the Sea of California, whither the venerable father, to his own great pleasure, aspired and hoped to go some day. Midway between Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores and La Consepsion there are two other districts, that of San Ygnacio, where Father Agus tin de Campos was and still is stationed, and that of Tubutama, administered by Father Daniel Ganusque. We went in by the most direct road, leaving these two districts to the right. And it was a particular com fort and a great wonder to the venerable father to see the great affability of such friendly people as we found everywhere, for they immediately gave him some in fants to baptize. The first one that he baptized he named after his most beloved patron, San Francisco Xavier; another one after San Ygnacio; another, after San Pedro; another, Maria; another, Rosalia, etc. Three leagues this way is the rancheria or newly begun 133 Manje states that he came in consequence of the sending to Mexico of his own reports and the reports of others, by the missionaries and General Domingo Jironza, in consequence of which alms were furnished by the royal treasury (Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 35-36). 134 Manje makes it appear that Saeta made his alms-gathering trip in Sonora before he went to Caborca, not arriving there till January, 1695. But from the letters which follow this is clearly not the case (Manje, op. cit., 36). 132 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. pueblo of San Diego del Pibquin,134* which also be longed to the mission of La Consepcion. In both places the children received us with great pleasure to them selves and to us, and with many crosses and arches placed all along those pleasant and level roads. CHAPTER II. FIRST HOLY FERVOR AND ZEAL, AND ONE OF THE HOLY LETTERS OF THE VENER ABLE FATHER FRANCISCO XAVIER SAETA The venerable father began at once, with admirable and holy fervor, the spiritual and temporal adminis tration of his new mission, teaching the Christian doc trine by means of the interpreter, teaching prayers by means of a temastidn, and beginning at the same time the construction of a chapel or little church, he labor ing personally on the work with his own holy hands, Laborantis manibus nostris,135 as Saint Paul said. He made a good garden, a wheatfield, and later a farm,13" etc. Eight or nine most fervent holy letters which the venerable father wrote me, which still exist and are in my possession, and which I look upon and preserve as relics, make known his most tender and most exquisite apostolic charity, zeal, and holy fervor. Eight days after entering La Consepcion, he wrote me the follow ing: Through the mercy of God I have sufficient courage to endure joyfully everything for His love. The children, because of their conduct, give me a thousand comforts, which is what concerns me, as your Reverence can read in the enclosed letter for the father visitor, from which, together with the cited report of our 134a "Pitguio," Hist, del Nayarit, 317, but this is clearly a typographical error, for in that work Pitquin is the regular form. It is not the same as Pitie, now Hermosillo. 185 "Laboring with our hands" (I Cor., iv, 12. Et Laboramus operantes manibus nostris. "And we labor, working with our hands"). 136 According to Manje (op. cit., 36) Saeta at first occupied the old house which had been built during the expeditions of 1693 and 1694 to Caborca. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 133 coming to this new mission,137 you can learn the rest, also. The children have made five hundred adobes, etc. Thus far the venerable father. At the same time the superiors determined that the new missions of this Pimeria, with the neighboring district of Cocurpe, should form and be a separate rectorate,138 and Father Marcos Antonio Kapus, who is at present rector of Matape, was named its rector. It is called the recto- rate or mission of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, for this district, with that of Cocospera, already had six fathers. CHAPTER III. THE VENERABLE FATHER GOES OUT TO SEEK ALMS FOR HIS NEW MISSION AND FOR THE BUILDING OF HIS NEW CHURCH November 15, 1694. Afterward, in the middle of November, the venerable father determined to go to collect among the other fathers, of the old missions, alms for his new district and the building of his church, etc. I had promised him and proceeded to give him six[ty]138a head of cattle and an equal number of sheep and goats, sixty fanegas of wheat and maize, a drove of mares, etc. His Reverence came to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, and went on to Cucurpe, whence he wrote me the following letter on November 15. Second Letter, November 15, 1694. The father rector has taken much comfort from the good news that I have sent him concerning the happy beginnings of my mission, and he gives me ample authority to procure, through the charity of our fa thers, its temporal advancement. In order that it may prosper 137 Manje refers to "un Cuaderno de apuntes del Padre" in which the success of the mission is treated (Manje, op. cit., 36). 138 The erection of the new rectorate isj apparently, not mentioned by the other authorities, at least in this connection. The five missionaries in Pimeria were evidently Kino at Dolores, Saeta at Caborca, Campos at Mag dalena and San Ignacio, Janusque at Tubutama, and Sandoval at Cocospera. 138a This clearly should be sixty. See page 136. 134 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. in a spiritual way, your Reverence, with your fervent charity and zeal, will not cease asking God for its happy success, so that all may redound to the greater glory of God and the spiritual welfare of our most beloved children. If there should be an occasion, give them my warmest greetings, etc. Thus far the venerable father, who went at once to the other three extensive rectorates, that of San Fran cisco Xavier de Sonora, that of San Francisco de Bor- ja, and that of the Holy Martyrs of Japan, and every where, especially in Matape, his very fine zeal being recognized, he was given liberal alms. CHAPTER IV. THIRD VERY TENDER LETTER OF THE VENERABLE FATHER FRANCISCO XAVIER SAETA, IN WHICH HIS MORE THAN PATERNAL AFFECTION FOR HIS CHILDREN IS SHOWN Third Letter. On January 19, from the district of Guepaca,139 Sonora, he wrote me this most charitable and loving letter: I send your Reverence two bundles. I am leaving for Ma tape, and go in great haste, because of my eagerness to give your Reverence a thousand most cordial embraces and to be among my most beloved children, whom I greet and embrace with all my heart and with all my love. And I consider well spent these labors which I have performed in their aid. Sit nomen Domini benedictum.140 The Sefior governor and captain, Don Pedro de Almazan, and Father Rector Manuel Gonzales especially com mend themselves to your Reverence. Your Reverence will par- 139 On the map in Bancroft's North Mexican States, vol. i, 251, this is given as Huepaca, on the Sonora River, south of Arizpe and north of Ures. According to Manje, Father Saeta was at San Juan Bautista on January 2, where he took part in the fiesta of N.S. del Pilar, and whence he set out to "found" the mission of Concepcion. The foregoing letter shows that Manje could not have been correct on this point. It indicates that Saeta must have gone south from San Juan Bautista, instead of directly to his mission. (Manje, op. cit., 36.) Ortega (Apostdlicos Afanes, 256), although following the Favores, gives a wrong impression as to the date of the alms-gathering journey. 140 "Blessed be the name of the Lord" (Job, i, 21). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 135 don this very miserable note, which I am writing with a scrawl. Goodbye, my most loving father. Humtfimus ex corde. Xaverius Saeta.141 The venerable father had already passed through Matape some weeks before, and he now returned to learn what was to be given him, and at what time, etc. He received very generous and considerable alms from Father Rector Marcos de Loyola, most perfect and zealous lover and great benefactor of new conversions. CHAPTER V. THE VENERABLE FATHER RETURNS TO HIS MISSION AND IN ANOTHER LETTER DECLARES THE VERY GOOD CON DUCT OF HIS CHILDREN JANUARY, 1695. -A-t the end of January, 1695, tne venerable father returned to his mission of La Consep cion de Nuestra Sefiora del Caborca. He was very well content, and the children rejoiced greatly to see that the few servants who had set out with his Rever ence now returned very well clothed and were telling many new things about the missions which they had nev er seen before, and saying that wherever they had gone they had been shown great kindness, even more than if they had gone among their own relatives. The con tentment of the venerable father is shown by the fol lowing letter of March 4, 1695, in which he says: March. My children place themselves at the feet of your Reverence, to whom I can give nothing but good news of them. The justices came running along the road to receive me, with joy and happiness equal to that which I feel at seeing and em bracing them as my longed-for and most beloved children. They continue to attend mass every morning and catechism twice a day, large as well as small. They work with all love, and have become aids to the three other rancherias of the vicin- 141 "Truly your most humble servant, Xavier Saeta." An ordinary termination of a Latin letter. 136 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. ity, which are those of Unuicat, Bopota,142 and Actum, whose governors have promised me to come down with their people to live with me in this pueblo, as I have urged them to do. If they do so, it will surely be greatly to the glory of God, and one of the largest pueblos in this province can be formed. It will not fail through lack of my endeavours, etc. I have planted a very pretty garden plot, in which the little trees are set out and the vegetable seeds sown for the refreshment of the sailors from California, etc. He adds that a start has already been made on a good ranch, with corrals, and plentiful grass and water, etc. CHAPTER VI. TWO OTHER LETTERS IN WHICH THE VENERABLE FATHER DECLARES HIS GOOD AND HOLY DESIRE TO PROCEED TO THE CON VERSION OF CALIFORNIA 143 How much the venerable father desired and solicited even the new transmarine conversions of California may be judged from his following two letters, one of the fifteenth and the other of the twenty-first of March of [ 1 6] 95. In one he writes me thus : Fifth Letter. Yesterday, the fourteenth inst., I received your Reverence's very welcome favor of the second of this month, through the Indian Santiago, who brought me the sixty head of sheep and goats for the provisioning of this new mission. These, together with the thirty-five [fifty-five] preceding, make one hundred and fifteen. The fifteen will be for our dear Cal ifornia, as your Reverence suggests. May God repay your Rev erence for the charity, while on my part I give you due thanks with all my heart. Sixth Letter. In the other letter, of March 21, he writes thus : With inexpressible pleasure to me and to my children, the herdsmen arrived yesterday, Passion Sunday, the twentieth in- 142 Not the same as Santa Maria Bugota, noted elsewhere. 143 This item seems to be omitted from all the other authorities. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 137 stant, with the cattle which your Reverence gives for this mis sion, to the number of one hundred head. As your Reverence suggests to me, the other five spotted cows, with your Rever ence's brand, are assigned, as is your wish, to our most beloved holy hermitess, Rosalia de las Californias, to whom I am con tinually praying Sit portus et aura suis,li4 in order that some day we may go to set up with our own hands her image and in time her own statue on that innocent and happy little hill, dedicated to her, etc. CHAPTER VII. LETTER IN WHICH THE VENERABLE FATHER REFUSES TO LEAVE LA CONSEPCION, IN ORDER TO STAY AND OBTAIN THE CROWN OF MARTYRDOM IN HOLY WEEK Now follows the seventh letter of the venerable fa ther in which he manifests his decision, although sent for, not to leave his mission, because of his desire to stay to receive the crown of martyrdom in the holy season in which the Redeemer of the world and King of Mar tyrs obtained it. Seventh Letter, 1695. Well, on the ninth of March, the venerable father says to me : I received your Reverence's very dear letter of the twenty- fourth ult., through the muleteers who brought me my trunks and who arrived on the fourth of this month. I appreciate very much your Reverence's noble attention, shown by inviting me to enjoy myself, but I must say, my father, that I will not be able to enjoy the favors of your Reverence, for really I am already very much engrossed, both in spiritual and temporal matters; for, foreseeing that these difficulties must arise, in setting out again I tried to dispose once for all of all the affairs that I could, because then I was not needed, while now I believe that I am very much needed here. In fact, I have excused myself also from going to other places where they had invited me for Holy 144 "May she be a port of safety and a breeze to her clients." (See Ovid, Vos eritis nostra portus et ara fugte, "You will be harbor and home to our exile"). 138 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Week, and I shall hardly be able to go to San Pedro del Tubu tama to perform the duties of the church. But occasions will not be lacking, etc. Francisco is going, etc. Thus far the venerable father Francisco Xavier Saeta. CHAPTER VIII. LAST LETTER OF MOST TENDER FAREWELL FROM THE VENERABLE FATHER I add the eighth and last letter, which the venerable father wrote me on April i, a few hours before his glorious death, and which, without his knowing or sus pecting it, is a most tender farewell. I received it twenty-seven hours after his holy martyrdom occurred, the news of his death itself having come two hours before. The letter is as follows : The great favor of your Reverence reaches me, with the rolls of bread, biscuit, etc., for which I return to your Reverence due and cordial thanks. In regard to the question of our seeing each other one of these days, your Reverence may notify me by an Indian whenever you wish me to go to the post of Santa Maria; for, although I am badly needed here if I leave for a moment, because I am so very busy, nevertheless, I will steal that short bit of time and, like fleet Saeta, will fly and place my self at the feet of your Reverence, to receive your commands and discuss many things. I shall be glad if the articles of clothing referred to can be brought at the time of meeting from some of these mining towns for my children, for they are limited to sack cloth, blankets, tunics, and pisiete. I will promptly pay what they are worth, either in wheat or in silver, at the latest at wheat harvest, for here work proceeds with vigor- feruet opus1*5- and I realize that these attractions are very helpful for the spir itualities as well as for the temporalities. I cannot spend much time on this letter, as the bearer wishes to return. I always remain subject to the orders of your Reverence. Vale, pater optime, et in tuis sacrificiis, tut yndignisimi famuli ne oblivis- 145 "The work glows," i.e. proceeds with vigor (Virgil, ASneid, vol. i, line 436. Fervet opus redolentque thymo fragrantia mella). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 139 carts precor.1*" Consepcion de Nuestra Sefiora del Caborca, April 1, 1695. Your Reverence's humblest servant in Christ. Xavier Saeta. P.S. I. Through lack of vinegar I have not yet tried my very pretty garden. I appreciate very much the kindness your Reverence does me in writing in my behalf to the superiors, and although I merit nothing except all kinds of confusion (for what I do is nothing in comparison with what I owe to the divine Majesty and to His most beloved souls), nevertheless I do not fail to be grateful for the kindness. Vale iterum humanissime Pater et felix vive.1*7 P.S. II. The bearer of your Reverence's letter has grieved me unspeakably by the news he brought me, to the effect that the Hocomes attacked San Pedro del Tubutama the other day and killed poor Martin and the boy Fernando, who were returning from bringing me the cattle.1*8 In God's name your Rever ence will tell me about what happened, as well as about Father Daniel.149Thus far the venerable father in his last letter, in side ; but after it was sealed he wrote me the following on the outside: I shall be very much pleased if your Reverence receives the bundle of relics and other little things which I sent to you by Father Daniel. I received two sacks of maize by hand of the governor of Bosna. The maize could not be brought from Santa Maria on account of the enemies, for the news of the deaths of Martin and the boy is confirmed. Let your Rever ence not lose sight of me. Thus far the venerable father. I received this last long and most tender letter at eleven o'clock on Easter day, having received two hours before, at about nine o'clock in the morning, the sad news of his holy death. 146 "Farewell, most excellent Father. In your holy sacrifices do not, I pray, be unmindful of your most unworthy servant" (i.e., in your Masses). 147 "Again, farewell, most kindly Father, and be happy." 148 For accounts of the uprising at Tubutama, see "Index" and Apostdlicos Afanes, 256-257; Manje, Luz de Tierra Incognita, libro ii, 30-31. 149 Father Daniel Januske. i4o MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. April 2, 1695. It occurred at sunrise on the morn ing of Holy Saturday, or Saturday of the Gloria, April 2, 1695, as I will now tell in chapter nine. The news of it came in twenty-seven hours, a distance of forty- six leagues. CHAPTER IX. CONCERNING THREE OTHER MUR DERS COMMITTED IN SAN PEDRO DEL TUBUTAMA The disturbances and murders which the venerable father mentions in his last letter, and which were attri buted to the Jocomes, were not committed by them, but by the Tubutamas themselves, and later, by some oth ers, disgusted, very much stirred up, and irritated at certain bad treatment and new and old severities, and even at some murders in the west and in the north. Those malcontents went to take vengeance on La Consepcion, destroying almost all the mission. It is evident that the three murders which took place in El Tubutama on March 29, four days before the death of the venerable father- namely, those of three Opata In dians, Antonio, the herdsman of El Tubutama, Martin and the boy Fernando, who were returning from La Consepcion, were committed by the Tubutamas because of the harsh and choleric treatment with which, many times, the said Opata Indian Antonio abused and beat the Pima Indians of El Tubutama. For, on the same day, March 29, Holy Tuesday, he knocked down on the ground and wounded with spur thrusts the overseer of the farm, who cried out to his relatives, "This Opata is killing me ;" whereupon the rest of the Pimas shot two arrows at him. Nevertheless, he mounted a horse and fled to the pueblo. They followed and killed him, plundered the other Opata Indians named, burned the one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 141 house and little church of the venerable father, and killed many cattle, etc., as the father had set out a few hours before for San Ygnacio and Cucurpe with the news of all this. And it seems that some of these disturbers went to the neighboring rancheria of San Antonio del Vquitoa, eight leagues to the southwest, and the malcontents there, together with others, about forty in all, planned to do the same thing [in Pitquin], which is distant about twelve leagues, the common enemy and others, their following, cooperating to the complete obstruc tion of our holy faith. On the first day of April these forty-odd sinners came down to San Diego del Pitquin, which is three leagues from La Consepcion, and arranged to commit very early on the following morning the sacrilegious iniquities which in fact they so barbarously did commit against the person of the venerable father, his property, and his four servants, Opatas and strangers. CHAPTER X. HAPPY AND GLORIOUS DEATH OF THE VENERABLE FATHER FRANCISCO XAVIER SAETA AND OF HIS FOUR SERVANTS, AND THE PLUNDERING OF HIS HOUSE At sunrise on Saturday of the Gloria, April 2, 1695, these forty-odd malefactors from San Antonio del Vquitoa entered the house of the venerable father, ap parently in peace, but with their bows and arrows. They talked to the venerable father and he with them, and bade them good-bye in a friendly way. They went out, the venerable father accompanying them to the door of the spacious hall, where he at once discovered the evil purpose of the sacrilegists, and although the venerable father called the captain of La Consepcion, 142 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. through fear of the armed people he failed to approach. Then the venerable father knelt down in the very door of his hall (which was the one that still served as a little church) to receive, as he did receive, the two ar row shots, and arising with them he went in to embrace a very pretty crucifix which he had brought with him from Europe, and, seating himself on a box, on account of weakness and pain, and afterwards on the bed, bleed ing, he gave his happy spirit to the sovereign Creator. These cruel barbarians also killed the four servants of the venerable father. One was named Francisco Xavier and was a native of Vris. He served as inter preter and was married to a Pima woman of this Pi meria named Luisa, a native of the great rancheria of Mototicachi, which was so unreasonably destroyed in the year 1688. More than twenty captives were car ried off from it to the mining town which they call Los Frayles, and more than fifty natives were beaten, merely because of the malicious suspicion that they were stealing stock and committing the hostilities in this province, although it is thoroughly patent now that they have been committed by the Hocomes, Xanos, Sumas, and Apaches combined, and not by these much persecuted poor Pimas of this extensive Pimeria here about. Therefore, his Excellency ordered that these cap tives should be restored to their liberty and to their nation, whereupon the said Lucia came to this pueblo of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, where she married the above mentioned Francisco Xavier. The second of the servants was Josep[h], a very good herdsman, a native of Chinapa, who had married in Cocospera. The third was a plainsman,150 a native of Cumpas, 150 Sabanero. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 143 named Francisco. The fourth was another boy, a native of Vres, named Fernando, who had aided in taking the cattle to La Consepcion. The barbarians plundered the house of the venerable father, killed and stampeded the cattle, sheep and goats, and the horse- herd, and went away leaving the people of La Consep cion grief stricken. Four or five days afterward the governor of El Bosna, whom I had sent to find out in detail about all that had happened, arrived at La Con sepcion. As he found that the bodies of the dead were decomposing, he burned them, not being able to give them any other burial. Near the body of the vener able father he found the holy crucifix, which he was bringing to me when he met the soldiers from the presi dio, who took it away from him. CHAPTER XI. EXPEDITION OF THE GARRISON OF THIS PROVINCE OF SONORA TO PUNISH THE DELINQUENTS AND TO REMOVE THE BODY OF THE VENERABLE FATHER Upon receiving the news, which I at once despatched to the superiors and to the royal justice, the Sefior gov ernor of arms, Don Domingo Jeronsa Petriz de Cruzat, responded and came at once with the soldiers of his presidio and with many friendly Indians, and accom panied by Father Agustin de Campos and Father Fer nando Bayerca, for the purpose of redressing the in juries and to remove the body of the venerable father to La Consepcion. But from everywhere around there the people fled through fear of the soldiers, whom they had never seen before. Having killed a boy, beaten an Indian woman, and taken captive three little chil dren whom they encountered, they gathered up the bones and ashes of the venerable father, and various 144 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. papers, books, and other trifles. Returning, the Sefior governor observed the day of the Holy Cross in May in this new church of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, con fessing and partaking of the holy Sacrament in the morning, and in the afternoon we all proceeded to the nearby pueblo of Cucurpe. We bore the bones and ashes of the venerable father; and the Senior governor, to the great satisfaction of all, deigned to lead by the bridle the mule which bore the little box containing the bones of the venerable father. The following day the burial occurred, the father rector of this rectorate of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, Father Marcos An tonio Kappus, singing mass. CHAPTER XII. SECOND AND NEW EXPEDITION OF THE GARRISON AND NEW AND GREATER DISTURBANCE THAN BEFORE As all the people of El Tubutama and its vicinity, those of La Consepcion, and especially the delinquents of San Antonio del Uquitoa, etc., had fled afar through fear of the garrison, the Sefior governor of arms was of the opinion that he should wait a little, and that, affecting carelessness, only the chief criminals should be punished, the good Pimas who were not guilty of or accomplices in the crime cooperating. But others urged that return should be made to inflict severe pun ishment at once. The captain of the presidio returned with more supplies. We summoned the people, with the delinquents of El Tubutama, to make peace. The innocent ones and the justices went inland to seek out and summon the malefactors, and all came with crosses and without arms, but all were killed, both good and bad, to the number of more than fifty, among them being the governor of El Bosna and the governor of one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 145 El Tupo, who with great friendliness and loyalty had labored so hard and traveled so far in hunting for the criminals, and who had aided in their punishment. At so many murders of so many innocents, for there were only five or six of the delinquents there, the rela tives of the dead were aroused and stirred up to such a degree that after the garrison had retired or gone away, they burned the houses or chapels of San Ignacio, San Joseph de Ios Hymires, Santa Maria Magdalena, and La Consepcion (which at the time of the murder of the venerable father they had not burned), profaning the holy ornaments and destroying all the supplies, cattle, and horses, etc. But, happily, Father Agustin de Cam pos with the six soldiers who had remained with him as guard, had left, fleeing to Cucurpe and Opodepe. We were all in great straits, but I sent such quieting messages as I could to all parts, and by Divine grace the trouble went no further. CHAPTER XIII. THIRD EXPEDITION WITH THREE GARRISONS OF ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY MEN AND WITH MANY INDIAN FRIENDS FROM EVERYWHERE, EVEN FROM HYAQUI JULY AND AUGUST, 1695. Afterward, in July and August, there went inland three camps or garrisons, comprising one hundred and fifty men, with two hun dred loads of supplies, and with many Indian friends from all parts, even from the Pimeria of the north itself, for besides the garrison of this Presidio of Sonora, that of the Presidio of Xanos entered under General Juan Fernandez de la Fuente; likewise, the garrison of the Presidio of El Gallo, under General Don Domingo Theran. These two garrisons passed through the lands of the Hocomes and the hostile Xanos, in order 146 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. to reach Pimeria, and in those lands, in the Serro de Chiguicagui,151 they found almost all the spoils of the many robberies which, during all these years had been committed in this province of Sonora and on its fron tiers, including many arquebuses, swords, daggers, spurs, saddle-bags, saddles, boots, etc., whose theft many had so falsely imputed to the Pimas Sobaipuris. There were also found the pieces, very recently broken, of the bugle which they took away from the bugler of General Quiros. Among these Hocomes were found the spoils of the soldier Juan de Ochoa, whom, a few weeks before, they had captured alive, killing his three companions, on the road between Guachinera and Guasavas. Many of these spoils, guns, saddles, etc., were redeemed, and truces were made with the enemy until they should come to the Pimeria, whither General Don Domingo Theran hur ried, entering Tubutama at night, without the other two garrisons knowing it, and killing fifteen or sixteen Pimas. Hereupon the people fled in all directions, just as they were about to deliver up the criminals to their deserved punishment. The garrisons, together with the friendly Indians, went up from El Tubutama to El Saric, and then de scended to La Consepcion, a march of more than forty leagues, consuming fruitlessly many weeks' time, be cause the people were still far away, until with great prudence, experience, and very Christian zeal, General Juan Fernandez de la Fuente, realizing that there was 151 The Chiricahua (Chiguicagui) Mountains are in southeastern Arizona, about half way between the Rio Gila and the international boundary lint. Hodge (Handbook of American Indians, vol. i, 282) says that the Chiricahua Apaches were the most warlike of the Arizona Indians. Chiricahua is a small town on the El Paso and Southwestern Railway about twenty miles northeast of Douglas. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 147 no rebellion among these Pimas, since in all this time they did not resist, oppose, or make war on any one, anywhere, but merely fled through fear of the soldiers, and remained in retreat, endeavored to make peace, with the stipulation and condition that the Pimas and their chief captains and governors should obligate themselves to deliver up the principal malefactors in the murder of the venerable Father Francisco Xavier Saeta, and the Pimas joyfully accepted the proposal. BOOK IV. GENERAL PEACE-AGREEMENTS OF THIS PIMERIA, AND LETTERS OF VARI OUS PROMINENT PERSONS WHO PROPH ESY AND PROMISE GREAT FRUITS FROM THE INNOCENT AND HAPPY DEATH OF THE VENERABLE FA THER FRANCISCO XAVIER SAETA CHAPTER I. THE VERY CATHOLIC PEACE-AGREE MENTS OF THIS PIMERIA General Juan Fernandez de la Fuente, seeing that all the Pimas, those who had retreated as well as those who had not, those of the west and those of the north, were falling in so amicably with his very generous and very Catholic proposals relative to the peace-agree ments, his Grace summoned me to see that the truces were properly drawn up, so that we fathers should be safe, content, and satisfied. I went at once to El Tupo and La Consepcion, whither many natives of six dis tinct rancherias, or pueblos, presently arrived, on the twenty-fifth of August. Soon we came to the plains of La Cienega del Tupo; and on August 30, day of the most glorious Saint of the Indies, Rosa de Santa Maria, seven other rancherias or pueblos and many governors went down thither. And after sundry very pacific and very Catholic talks on the part of the Company, and especially on the part of the generals, some very friendly, very excellent, and very Christian peace-agreements were drawn up in the name of God and the King, the Pimas very will- EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 149 ingly obligating themselves promptly to surrender the principal delinquents to their merited punishment. And it was a source of most singular comfort, and edi fication, and tenderness to see those generals embracing those poor Pima captains and governors with such lov ing, Christian, Catholic embraces and friendly caresses. Thanks to the Sovereign Lord, some peace-agreements were drawn up and so well established and fixed that, by Divine mercy, they remained very permanent, to the great advantage of the province and to the great injury of our enemies, the Hocomes; and in due time these captains and governors fulfilled their promise, surren dering to the royal justice the principal delinquents. They were catechised, baptized, and prepared for death; but the very great and paternal charity of the father visitor, Oracio Polise, seeing them so humble and so repentant, obtained their pardon. CHAPTER II. SUNDRY LETTERS OF PRINCIPAL PER SONS, WHO PROGNOSTICATE AND PROMISE VERY COPIOUS SPIRITUAL AND TEMPORAL FRUITS IN THE MOST CONSTANT CONVERSION OF MANY SOULS; AND, IN THE FIRST PLACE, THE LETTERS OF THE SUPERIORS Father Rector Marcos Anttonio Kapus. The father rector of this mission or rectorate of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, Marcos Anttonio Kapus, with out delay, early in April, while we were still somewhat in doubt in regard to the death of the venerable father (inasmuch as since the news of the death, which was brought by an Indian, many letters had come from the venerable father) , wrote me the following words : I constantly feel, sensim sine sensu, a greater and greater ven eration for this our glorious protomartyr, and I hope that our Lord in his Divine Majesty will look upon this innocent victim, 150 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. for the furtherance of the conversion of very many souls. (And immediately afterward his Reverence adds:) I have the great est hopes that all these evils are destined to bring forth much fruit and exceeding great good. May his Divine Majesty grant it and may she [Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores] be our protector and our support. Father Visitor Juan Munos de Burgos. The father visitor, Juan Munos de Burgos, from the mining town of San Juan, through which his Reverence was passing on his return from the visitation, wrote me the following: May our Lord requite your Reverence for the holy zeal with which you are endeavoring to stay the fury of such ungrateful people. May your Reverence, as father of those poor souls, aid them with your counsels and holy sacrifices, for I hope in the Lord that in the future the blood of that angel will be the means whereby the Pimeria will bring forth much fruit for the greater glory of God our Lord. May He guard your Reverence for me in much comfort. In another letter, of April 15, his Reverence writes to me thus : "Be of good cheer, your Reverence, for I hope in the Lord that all this must redound to the great er glory of God, as we have seen in other new con quests where our brethren have shed their blood." In another, from his district of Guepaca, his Reverence writes to me the following: Your Reverence's health has given me great concern, since they told me that they had seen your Reverence looking very ill, and I am rather inclined to think that in the present case your Reverence's heart and holy zeal are still suffering over the revolt of that new Christendom. God well knows that I would like to see your Reverence with lively hopes in our Lord that soon we shall see those poor misguided beings brought again into the bosom of our holy mother Church. In what new conversions have we not seen the shedding of blood of apostolic noblemen, whose irrigation has fertilized the harvest of many souls? In God's name, your Reverence, be of good courage in the Lord, one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 151 and comfort your heart ; and with the same zeal continue in the conversion of those poor ingrates. Father Provincial, Diego de Almonazir. The father provincial, Diego de Almonasir, having heard of this blessed death of the venerable father, Francisco Xavier Saeta, writes to and consoles the rest of the fathers, saying that we should have a thousand desires to obtain the same fortune as our companion ; but that the Lord, content with Father Saeta, wished the others for the instruction of those people, and that their mar tyrdom should be without blood, but more prolonged in the continual risk of life and the difficult task of our ministry in the face of their brutish obstinacy. Says the father provincial to the father visitor, in regard to the fathers of Pimeria: "For my part, commend me to and signify to all my grateful envy of their blessed labors and happy lot, quite in keeping with the apos tolic life, and travail." Thus far the father provincial. chapter iii. other letters from other prom inent fathers who promise and assure the same blessed and copious fruit May ii, 1695. Father Rector Manuel Gon- zales. The father rector of the College of Oposura, Manuel Gonzales, on May 1 1 wrote thus : With that of your Reverence, I received the note of the de ceased father, Francisco Xavier Saeta — may he be with God in Glory — a very edifying note written a few days before his death. I have thought and I still think of your Reverence in as grievous and unhappy a case as that of our children, the Pimas. I so desire to comfort them that I would fain declare it with tears of my heart's blood instead of ink ; but I am consoled by my knowledge of your Reverence, who knows how deep and hidden are the just and holy judgments of God our Lord, whom we ought to adore and venerate with all our hearts and souls. Good courage, my best beloved father, for God our Lord is able to bring great 152 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. good out of evil. How much your Reverence has worked for the good of those poor creatures, how well you were conducting so holy a work, and how far you had advanced it, all the world knows. (And afterwards his Reverence continues:) I beg of your Reverence, for the love of God our Lord and of His most holy Mother, our Lady of Sorrows, that your Reverence, in such sorrow, cast yourself at the feet of this our Lady, and offer yourself wholly to her, conforming yourself in everything to the Divine will, trusting much in the Divine goodness that when it shall please His Divine Majesty all will be rectified to His great honor and glory and to the advantage of all those poor sons of our heart. May God have pity upon them and guard your Rev erence for me. June 9, 1695. Father Rector Anttonio Leal. Thus far the father rector, Manuel Gonzales. On the ninth of June the father rector, Anttonio Leal, wrote me from his holy College of Guadiana the following letter. I took great comfort from the pleasing reports with which the father visitor favored me, of the progress and increase of Christianity in the Pimeria, occasioned by the entry of your Rev erence one hundred and fifty leagues to the north, and of the great number of heathen who anxiously sought the waters of holy baptism. But how could such ease be free from envy ; and how could the Devil allow so many souls, which he held as his own, to escape him, without doing his utmost to block their path way? I have greatly regretted, and all greatly regret, that that re volt should have occurred among those poor creatures, although I hope in our Lord that it has not been in all parts. However, my father, though the faith of our God has had such a setback, not for that has it been destroyed; and although the Apostles, disciples of Christ, and their successors in all ages, have died, si caro infirma spiritus promptus,152 those who have remained have again promptly kindled the fires of the Holy Spirit, 162 "If the flesh be weak, the spirit is willing" (i.e., "If weak in body, yet willing in spirit" (Matthew, xxvi, 41, or Mark, xiv, 38. Spiritus quidem promptus est, caro autem infirma). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 153 reviving it from the deadest ashes. Your Reverence, whom it behooves not to give up - for the blood of our brother is to be the watering by which those new plants are to wax greater, and in heaven he is to be the patron of those poor souls - your Rever ence has been and must be their apostle; and great will be the compassion which for some is suffered by others. Then, my father, the blood of Christ! Be not cast down, your Reverence, by what has happened, for it is the cause of God, and God will return for its sake and assist your Reverence, whom I pray Him to guard for me many years. Since, your Reverence, I have ever been your companion in desires whose fulfillment our Lord hath not granted me, may he make me a participant in your labors. Thus far the father rector, Anttonio Leal, with his very paternal encouragement. The father rector of the College of Matape, Marcos de Loyola, a missionary very experienced as well in new as in old missions, writes me almost the same. He says that our Lord must desire this Pimeria for some great thing, since He permits it to be attacked and impeded with much opposition. And in another letter, of February 26, 1695, even preceding these disturbances, with more discerning prophecy, he writes as follows: This means that your Reverence will not lack laborers to win the crown of eternity. Happy your Reverence, who has an opportunity to gain so much in heaven ; I even envy your Rever ence, for, as things are going you should take comfort in every thing, for it is of God's law, and He is leading. There is no reason to lose heart on that account, but rather to hope in God, for He will bring from everything great fruit and good. Thus far the father rector of Matape, Marcos de Loyola; and much of this nature many fathers have written and said. 154 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. CHAPTER IV. OTHER LETTERS FROM THREE LIEU TENANTS OF THIS PIMERIA IN REGARD TO THE BLESSED DEATH OF THE VENERABLE FATHER FRANCISCO XAVIER SAETA Captain Pasqual de Picondo, who a few months be fore had been lieutenant of the Real de Bacanuche and of this Pimeria, writes me the following: I regard the death of the venerable Father Francisco Xavier Saeta as one of the greatest glories that could be desired, for many have wished to die for our Lord Jesus Christ in like min istry and have not obtained their wish. Happy once and a thou sand times Father Francisco Xavier Saeta, who obtained from our Lord the boon that his stole should be bathed in blood. And I regard all this Pimeria as flourishing, and predict that it will yield ripened fruit for the granary of the Church; and let the reverend fathers of Pimeria rejoice and congratulate them selves likewise, that they have a martyr comrade in heaven who is and will be their advocate with our Lord Jesus Christ, that their holy desires and labors may succeed. Another and similar letter his successor in the lieu tenancy, Captain Josep[h] Romo de Vivar, wrote me from Real de Bacanuche; and another, from the Real de San Juan, the General Don Pedro Garzia de Al- inazan, who had been a very great admirer of the vener able Father, since the latter four months before his hap py death had lodged in his house at the Real de San Juan, when he preached at the feasts of Nuestra Sefiora de la Consepcion. And after other very fine letters in reference to the matter, more recently the present lieu tenant of this Pimeria, Juan Matheo Manje, nephew of the Sefior military commander of this province of So nora, on the nineteenth of September, 1695, wrote me the following: I have been pleased to learn of your Reverence's going to Mexico. May the sovereign Lord grant you a pleasant journey and complete success in everything and bring you back safe, ac- one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 155 companied by fervent and apostolic ministers for this Pimeria, vineyard of the Lord ; for by the blood of the most zealous Father and martyr, Francisco Xavier Saeta, that harvest of souls is being fertilized, and in time will be the most flourishing, just as happens in the fields where by watering the land is fertilized in order that it may make the harvest of wheat luxuriant. Nor will this innocent blood of the venerable father martyr be like that of Abel, which cried for vengeance, but it will be a foun tain of supplications and appeals for the conversion of those heathen tribes, and for their repentance, for they know not what they did — like those others who crucified Jesus the Lamb Him self, and who crucify Him again by opposing and hindering those new conversions. I am consoled, however, that your Rev erence, by going to Mexico, will arrange for ministers, etc. I rejoice at the coming of the governors of the Soba nation from the west to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. The blood which was shed is beginning to bear me fruit. This and much more from Captain Juan Matheo Manje, present lieutenant of this Pimeria, who with very Christian zeal and like valor has on various occa sions made divers expeditions with me. CHAPTER V. ANOTHER LETTER CITING THE UNI VERSAL EXAMPLE OF THE OTHER NEW CONVER SIONS, WHICH LIKEWISE BEGAN WITH THE SHEDDING OF THE BLOOD OF THEIR MINISTERS Father Antonio Menendez, July 2, 1695. Fa ther Antonio Menendes, rector of the mission of San Ygnacio de Mayo, of Hyaqui, on the second of July, 1695, wrote from his holy College of Conicari 153 as fol lows: In Hyaqui I received, with the pain which may be imagined, your Reverence's report of what had happened in the new con version ; this I knew already, and in my solitude I was thinking that your Reverence's heart must be completely broken, since at 153 Conicari is on the Mayo River about twenty-five miles northeast of Alamos. 156 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. every avenue the common enemy opposes himself to hinder and embarrass that which is for the glory of God. This is a good sign, my father, for all those new conversions begin with min isters' blood for their fertilization, and, indeed, is a sign of per severance and good success. Thus was the conversion of Cina- loa begun with Father Tapia; that of Chinipas with the two fathers Julio Pascual and Manual Martinez, that of Tepeguanes with seven glorious fathers, that of Taraumares Antiguos with the blood of fathers Cornelio and Jacome Basilio; and now the new conversion of Taraumares Nuevos with Father Coronda and Father Manuel Zanches. Therefore, be of good spirits my father, for God willed that the first fruits of that conversion should be the suffering of Father Francisco Xavier Saeta. Thus far the father rector, Antonio Minendes. And, indeed, we see very plainly the above-mentioned fruits in the reduction of so many souls who, in the midst of so many hindrances cuee spesificari possent mortes quo ano, quo loco, etc. . ,15* already are with such con stancy coming from regions so remote to ask for holy baptism. CHAPTER VI. PROPHECIES BY THE VENERABLE FATHER FRANCISCO XAVIER SAETA HIMSELF OF HIS GLORIOUS AND GREATLY DESIRED MARTYRDOM Many persons, who came with and conversed with the Venerable Father in the passage from Spain to Vera Cruz and in Mexico, have had and still have memories so vivid of the many times when with singular tenderness he used to speak of his great desire to shed his blood and give his life for the Faith by means of a blessed, holy martyrdom, that they have written from Mexico to these missions, making detailed and express mention of those holy prophecies of his. One long let ter from a person of this class, which is in my posses- 154 "Whose deaths could be specified as to year, place," etc. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 157 sion, treats very expressly of these holy premonitions of his. It arrived several weeks after his blessed death, but was written in Mexico at almost the same time at which here in La Consepcion the venerable father ob tained his desired crown of martyrdom, of which I my self have heard him speak with singular tenderness, adding very expressly many times those words of St. John the Baptist, Posuit me [sic~\ ut sagitam electam,155 referring to his surname, Saeta, which in Latin is sagi- ta, and in Castilian flecha1™ In the letter which the ven erable father wrote me from Guepaca on the nineteenth of January, 1695, ne closed with the words : "May your Reverence pardon the miserable scrawl which I am writing with this arrow stroke." When the venerable father, a few months ago, went out to collect alms for his mission, in taking leave of various persons on going to the interior he said to them, as if he were going to die, "Adieu till we meet in heaven." And thus ever our Lord has given increase to his holy Church with His own most holy blood and with the blood of His well beloved and dearest ministers. Plantaverunt Ecclesiam tuam sanguine suo, et sanguis Martirum semen chris- tianorum.1" With this in mind a father visitor well said that the death of the venerable Father Francisco Xavier Saeta was a pearl for the Company. 155 Isaias, xlix, 2. Posuit me sicut sagittam electam. "He hath made me a chosen arrow." 156 I.e., arrow. 157 "They planted the Church with their blood ; and the blood of Martyrs is the seed of Christians" (Tertullian, Apologeticus adversus Gentes, cap. 1. Plures efficimur, quoties metimur a vobis; semen est sanguis Christianorum) . The same thought is expressed in several passages of Tertullian. BOOKV. MY JOURNEY TO MEXICO AND MY RETURN TO THE MISSIONS; VISITATION OF THE FATHER VISITOR, ORACIO POLICE ; VARIOUS ENTRIES TO THE NORTH, THE WEST, AND THE NORTHWEST; DISCOVERY AND REDUCTION OF NEW NATIONS CHAPTER I. MY JOURNEY TO MEXICO TO OBTAIN MISSIONARY FATHERS FOR THIS PIMERIA158 Since the year before, and earlier, when from these coasts of this Pimeria we caught sight of California nearby, I had asked and obtained permission from the father provincial, Diego de Almonacir, to go to Mex ico to discuss with his Reverence and with his Excel lency the conversion of California and the extensive new lands of this mainland; but my going had been prevented by the royal justice and some fathers, the lieutenants, and citizens of this province, who reported to Mexico that I should be needed here, and that I was accomplishing more than a well governed presidio, etc. This year, 1695, however, in view of the very Christian truces which had been drawn up on the thirtieth of August in this Pimeria, and since the harvest of souls 158 For an account of this trip to Mexico, see Bancroft, North Mexican States and Texas, vol. i, 262-263 ; Alegre, Historia, vol. iii, 88-89 ; Apos tdlicos Afanes, 263; Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, cap. iv (45). The account given by Alegre is in some respects better than that given here by Kino, especially with respect to the details of Kino's efforts while in Mexico to secure justice for the Pimas. He says nothing, however, of Kino's efforts in behalf of California during this journey. In fact, none of the other authorities except the Afanes mention them. EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 159 was so plenteous, so widespread, and so ripe, I deter mined, although some opposed me, to avail myself of the license, almost an order, which I had from the father provincial, and to go to Mexico for the good of so many souls in sore need; and so, setting out from these missions of Sonora on the sixteenth of November, 1695,169 m seven weeks and after a journey of five hun dred leagues, I arrived at Mexico on January 8, 1696. It was God's will that I should be able to say mass every day of this trip ; and the three masses of the Feast of the Nativity I said in the new church of Nuestra Sefiora de Loreto of Guadalaxara. The same day on which I arrived at Mexico Father Juan Maria Salva tierra160 arrived by another route, while that morning the new government had been installed, Father Juan de Palacios having entered as provincial. I took with me to Mexico the son of the captain general of this Pimeria, and we received the utmost kindness and favors from the new father provincial and his predecessor, from his Excellency the Conde de Galves, and even from her Ladyship, the viceroy's wife, who were delighted at seeing new people who came from parts and lands so remote. In reference to California, on account of various mis haps, neither I nor Father Juan Maria Salvatierra ac complished our purpose at that time, although the year following Father Juan Maria did accomplish it at the coming of the new viceroy, Conde de Valladares, etc. In regard to fathers for this Pimeria, I obtained five 159 The details given here with respect to the date of leaving for Mexico, and the taking of the chief's son with him, are lacking in the other authori ties except the Afanes. 160 Alegre says that Salvatierra, Zappa, and Kino all three arrived on the same day (op. cit., p. 89). The Afanes gives January 6 as the day of Kino's arrival in Mexico. 160 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [VoL from the new father provincial, Juan de Palacios, though afterward the reports, false or ignorant, and the contrary opinions of those less interested, delayed every thing, or almost everything, as usual. CHAPTER II. MY DEPARTURE FROM MEXICO AND ARRIVAL AT THESE MISSIONS OF THE PIMERIA February 8, 1696. On the eighth of February,161 1696, I set out from Mexico with Father Anttonio de Benabides,162 who came to prepare himself in Guadi- ana163 for this Pimeria. I came to observe Holy Week and Easter at Conicari, whence I forwarded the de spatch of the government and many other letters which I was carrying to the new father visitor, Oracio Po- lise, and to other fathers. Afterward I passed on to Santa Maria de Bazaraca164 to see the father visitor; and I found in his Reverence all affection and a very great and fatherly love for these new conversions. I had to return in the company of Captain Christobal de Leon, his son, and his men, for the greater security of my person ; but his Divine Majesty saved me from the 161 This detail is lacking from the other accounts except the Afanes. 162 Alegre (Historia, vol. iii, 89) says lhat Kino brought with him Father Gaspar Barrillas. If this be true, it is strange that Kino does not mention the fact. Could Kino mean Barrillas instead of Benavides? According to Manje, upon the arrival of Barrillas, he was conducted to Tubutama and Caborca, in the latter of which places he reestablished the destroyed mission (op. tit., 46). Ortega states that Kino conducted Barrillas to Caborca in Feb ruary, 1697 (cited in Bancroft, North Mexican States, vol. i, 263). Kino shows that it was in 1698, after the expedition with Bernal (post, page 175). It may be, therefore, that Barrillas did not return with Kino, who reached Dolores in May, 1696. Ortega implies that none of the five missionaries were sent (Apostdlicos Afanes, 264). 163 Guadiana is the same as Durango, where there was at this time a Jesuit college. It was long the capital of Nueva Vizcaya, and is now the seat of government of the state of Durango. 164 Santa Maria Bazeraca (now Bacerac) is situated on the north flowing stretch of the upper Yaqui River, nearly straight east of Arizpe, near the Chihuahua boundary, and high in the mountains. See "Map" and "Index." one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 161 great misfortune into which his Grace fell, for the hos tile Jocomes killed him166 and all his people on the road not very far from Oputo,166 while I went to say goodbye to the father rector, Francisco Carranco, and Father Pedro del Marmol.167 In the middle of May I arrived at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. While I was gone to Mexico Father Agustin de Campos had administered the mission;168 and his Reverence upon my return went to his mission of San Ygnacio. In June, as the Pima children of the interior had heard of my return from Mexico, their principal gov ernors and captains came to see me in such numbers and from parts so remote, from the north, from the west, etc., that Captain Don Antonio de Estrada Bocanegra,169 who had been an eye-witness, wrote a long account of them, noting the fifty, sixty, seventy, eighty, ninety, and one hundred or more leagues' journey which many of them had come, all for the purpose of asking and ob taining holy baptism and fathers for their rancherias and for their many people. All received the very pa ternal and very Catholic messages of the father pro vincials and of their Excellencies, with various gifts which meanwhile they had sent them ; and I sent them away comforted with fair hopes that by the divine 165 For the details of this massacre see Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 45-48 and page 162, footnote. The references cited give the geog raphy of the event. Alegre gives the Apaches as the aggressors. 166 Oputo is on the upper Yaqui River, just north of latitude 300, and southeast of Arizpe. 167 These details are omitted from the other accounts. 188 That is, he reestablished his mission, which had been destroyed in 1695. (See Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 46, on this point). After the Pima revolt had been quieted in 1695, Father Campos served as chaplain in a campaign against the Jocomes and Janos. During this cam paign General Theran de Ios Rlos lost his life (Manje, Luz de Tierra In cdgnita, libro ii, 45). 169 This item is lacking from the other accounts. 162 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Grace they should accomplish the good intent and pur pose which they professed of obtaining missionary fathers.CHAPTER III. NEW AND OLD AND VERY VIOLENT CONTRADICTIONS AND OPPOSITION WHICH HIN DERED THE COMING OF THE MISSIONARY FATHERS TO THIS PIMERIA170 Nevertheless, so great were the obstacles and the opposition against this Pimeria that they caused even the most friendly father visitor, Oracio Polise, to falter. It was again reported, but very falsely, as has since been seen, that the Pimas Sobaipuris were closely 170 Accounts of the Indian troubles of the later months of 1695 and of the year 1696 are given in Manje, Luz de Tierra Incognita, libro ii, 45-48 and Alegre, Historia, vol. iii, 92-93, each account supplementing the other. Either work is much better than Kino's on this point. The following summary is based on Manje and Alegre: In September, 1695, the three companies which had been in the Pimeria, with Father Campos as their chaplain, made a campaign against the Jocomes and Janos, who were pestering Sonora. In this campaign they killed sixty and captured seventy of the enemy, the cap tives being distributed as slaves among the soldiers. In the course of the ex pedition most of the soldiers were taken ill, from drinking poisoned water, as it was believed, and General Theran de Ios Rios died. In January, 1696, Captain Antonio de Solis punished the Conchos, and put to death three leaders at Nacori, south of Oputo, in the upper Yaqui Valley, Father Carranco being present at the execution. In March the Apaches, Jocomes, and Janos, who had attacked Tonibavi, were punished, eighteen being killed. Sometime before May (for Kino was with the party) the same Indians attacked the party of Captain Cristobal de Leon, in the Sierra of San Cristobal, while they were on their way from Cusiguriachi. Father Kino, who had been in De Leon's band, fortunately had just turned aside to visit Fathers Carranco and Marmol, as related on page 161. To avenge this attack the Compania Volante went to the Sierra de Batepito, near Corodeguachi, but had little success. Jironza now called on the chiefs of the Janos and the Pimas to make a general campaign. They united at the Sierra Florida, near the Gila, and succeeded in killing thirty-two men and capturing fifty women and children. During the same year of 1696 a general uprising was attempted in Tarahu- mara, Tecupeto, and Sonora, under the influence of chief Quigue, or Quihue, of the pueblo of Santa Maria Baseraca. After ten leaders had been hanged at San Juan Bautista and Tecupeto, and chief Quigue had lost his life near Janos, quiet was restored. For the rebel chief's eloquent speech setting forth the grievances against the Spaniards, see Alegre, op. cit.^ one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 163 allied with the hostile Jocomes, and with the other enemies of this province of Sonora; and they were charged with stealing droves of horses, etc., and with having many large corrals full of them. It was falsely reported, also, that these Pimas were involved in the tumults and revolts of Taraumara, on the testimony of the Taraumares themselves, but the Taraumares could not have been speaking of the Pimas of this Pimeria, who are more than one hundred and fifty leagues distant from the Taraumares, but only of the Pimas near them, who are those of Tapipa and near Yecora.171 It had been said and reported, but very falsely, that the Pimas of the interior and their neighbors were such cannibals that they roasted and ate people, and that for this rea son one could not go to them; but already we have en tered and have found them very friendly and entirely free from such barbarities. I found it published at the coming of his Illustrious- ness to Matape that Father Kino was asking in letters that they bring him with soldiers out of the tumultuous Pimeria, when such a thing had never entered my thoughts.172 It was said and written to Mexico that I lived guarded by soldiers, but I have never had, nor thanks to the Lord, needed such a guard. It has been said and written that the Sobaipuris and others farther on had killed Father Kino and all his people who went with him in the entry of 1698 ; but the fact is that in all parts they received us with the utmost kindness and, thanks be to the Lord, we are still living. Toward the end of July of the past year it was re- 171 Yecora is on an upper branch of the Yaqui River in western Chi huahua. 172 Alegre alludes to these charges in his Historia, vol. iii, 101. The events to which he refers took place in 1697. 164 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. ported that the Soba nation was in commotion, and that we three173 fathers were in great danger of our lives. Father Barillas was taken from La Consepcion,174 and the garrison was summoned and came. But there was not then nor is there now the least of these pretended dangers. Another great contradiction and opposition and very false report has been that the Pimeria has few people and does not need many fathers. But it is a very well established fact that it has more than fifteen thousand souls. CHAPTER IV. VARIOUS ENTRIES TO THE NORTH EAST176 AND TO THE NORTH BY ORDER OF THE FATHER VISITOR, ORACIO POLISE; AND THE DELIV ERY OF THE DISTRICT OF COCOSPERA TO FATHER PEDRO RUIS DE CONTRERAS Nevertheless, in order that conditions might be in vestigated and the facts ascertained, the father visitor, Oracio Police, bade me make various entries, in which talks and instruction in Christian doctrine and in life somewhat civilized were given; and the very submis sive natives gave me many little ones to baptize. On the tenth of December I went to San Pablo de Quiburi, a journey of fifty leagues to the north, passing by Santa Maria and by Santa Cruz, of the Rio de San Joseph de Terrenate. I arrived at Quiburi on the fifteenth of December, bearing the paternal greetings which the father visitor sent to this principal and great 173 That is, Kino, Campos, and Barrillas. 17*This statement is an implied contradiction of Manje's assertion that Caborca was occupied only at times (Luz d^ Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 46). 176 This chapter is very important as giving the actual details of the preparations which Kino made for the missionaries in the San Pedro and Santa Cruz valleys. Except for Ortega's summary of it, these circumstances have not hitherto been clear. (Bancroft accepts Ortega at this point). No other authority states the number of trips made to these places by Kino in 1696 and 1697. See Bancroft, North Mexican States, vol. i, 263. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 165 rancheria; for it has more than four hundred souls as sembled together, and a fortification, or earthen en closure, since it is on the frontier of the hostile Ho comes. As a result of the Christian teaching, the principal captain, called El Coro, gave me his little son to baptize, and he was named Oracio Polise; and the governor called El Bajon,175a and others, gave me their little ones to christen. We began a little house of adobe for the father, within the fortification, and im mediately afterward I put in a few cattle and a small drove of mares for the beginning of a little ranch. On the thirteenth of January, 1697, I went in to the j Sobaipuris of San Xavier del Bac. We took cattle,vf sheep, goats, and a small drove of mares. The ranchv of San Luis del Bacoancos was begun with cattle. Also there were sheep and goats in San Cayetano, which the loyal children ofthe venerable Father Francisco Xavier Saeta had taken thither, having gathered them in Con sepcion at the time of the disturbances of 1695. At the same time, some cattle were placed in San Xavier del Bac, where I was received with all love by the many in habitants of the great rancheria, and by many other principal men, who had gathered from various parts adjacent. The word of God was spoken to them, there were baptisms of little ones, and beginnings of good sowings and harvests of wheat for the father minister whom they asked for and hoped to receive. On the seventeenth of March, 1697, I again went in to San Pablo de Quiburi.176 I returned by way of San 176a £1 Coro means "The Chorus" ; El Bajon means "The Bassoon." 176 Alegre by error puts in at this point the account of the Pima victory over the Apaches which occurred on March 30, 1698. He not only puts it under the date of 1697, but before the visit of the Pimas to Father Polici, related in the next chapter as occurring in October, 1697, and before the ex pedition of Bernal to the Gila, which was in part a result of the visit of Polici (Alegre, Historia, vol. iii, 100). 1 66 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Geronimo, San Cayetano, and San Luys, looking in all places after the spiritual welfare of the natives, bap tising some infants and sick persons, and consoling all with the very fatherly messages from the father visitor, and even from the Sefior alcalde mayor and military commander, notifying them at the same time to be ready to go with the soldiers on the expedition against the enemies of the province,177 the Hocomes, the Xanos, Sumas, and Apaches. With the same intent and pur pose I again went in to San Pablo de Quiburi on the seventeenth of April, and they received me with crosses and arches placed in the road. At this time I gave over the district of Cocospera178 and Santa Maria to Father Pedro Ruis de Contreras, with complete vestments or supplies for saying mass, good beginnings of a church and a house, partly fur nished, five hundred head of cattle, almost as many sheep and goats, two droves of mares, a drove of horses, oxen, crops, etc.179 CHAPTER V. THE PRINCIPAL CAPTAINS AND GOV ERNORS OF THIS PIMERIA GO TO SANTA MARIA DE BAZERACA TO SEE THE FATHER VISITOR AND ASK FOR FATHERS, A JOURNEY OF MORE THAN ONE HUNDRED AND THEN OF MORE THAN ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY LEAGUES 180 So great were the desires of the natives of this Pi meria to obtain missionary fathers that they determined 177 This statement illustrates the part which virile missionaries like Kino played in the defence of the frontier. 178 Notice that Kino's language implies that Cocospera was the principal place and Santa Maria the subordinate. Bancroft states that early in 1697 Father Ruiz arrived and was put in Suamca, with Cocospera as a visita. 179 For references to events of this period see in volume ii, page 157, a letter to Kino by Father General Thirso Gonzalez, dated December 27, 1698, in reply to one from Kino dated June 3, 1697. It is far out of place, and should be read in this connection. iso For another account of some of the events of this chapter, see Alegre, Historia, vol. iii, 101. He supplies a few details not given here. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 167 to go to Santa Maria de Baceraca181 to ask them of the father visitor. Some had come the fifty, sixty, eighty, ninety, one hundred, and more leagues' journey to reach Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores ; 182 and as there was still a journey of about one hundred leagues to Santa Maria de Bazeraca, and as they had never gone so many leagues away from their country, I went with them through Sonora. In the Real de San Juan, in Oposura, and in Guasavas, through which we passed, both the seculars and the fathers received us with all kindness. On the sixth of October, day of Our Lady of the Rosary, we reached Santa Maria de Baceraca. We were received with a thousand tendernesses and with such joy by the father visitor, Oracio Police, that his Reverence on the following day chanted a solemn mass to the three holy kings, who were the first gentiles who came to adore the Messiah -Primitice Gentium.183 And his Reverence, through various inquiries, even secret, which he made and ordered made, was so well satisfied with the great loyalty of these Pimas that he wrote a very fine letter to the Sefior military commander requesting that the Pimeria should be favored; that ef forts should be made to secure for it the fathers which it needed and deserved, since thereby the province would be quieted and made rid of the hostile Jocomes and Xanos, who would retreat to the east (all of which was 181 On the upp^r Yaqui River. See ante, footnote 164. 182 Alegre states that they arrived at Dolores toward the end of Septem ber. This may be merely an inference from the foregoing, but it is evident that he had access to documents at this point which I have not seen. He states that chief Pacheco had brought his wife to Bacanutzi (Bacanuchi), thence to Dolores, thence to Toape, where she was baptized as Nicolasa, and that the coming in September was a second visit for the purpose (His toria, vol. iii, 101). 183 "The first fruits of the Gentiles" (2 Thess., ii, 12. Quod elegerit vos Deus primitias in salutem: "God hath chosen you first fruits unto Salva tion"). 168 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [VoL afterward fulfilled to the letter) ; and that some soldiers should come into this Pimeria, at least as far as Qui buri, to see with their own eyes the good state of affairs and the ripeness of the very plentiful harvest of souls.184 Having asked when the soldiers were coming to Qui buri, I was told the 7th of November. And the same day I entered also from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, with Captain Juan Matheo Manje.185 Our intention was to penetrate forty or fifty leagues further inland, down the Rio de Quiburi, to the last Sobaipuris of the northeast and to the Rio de Jila, or Rio Grande, which is the same, for up to that time we had not penetrated so far inland by that route. CHAPTER VI. GREAT AND PEACEFUL ENTRY OF TWENTY-TWO SOLDIERS TO THE RIO GRANDE AND THE LAST SOBAIPURIS 186 I arrived at Quiburi with Captain Juan Matheo Manje, my servants, and more than sixty horses and mules, intending to penetrate to the last Sobaipuris. In Quiburi I received a letter from the captain of the soldiers stating that they were on their way, and they arrived on November 9. We found the Pima natives 184 Credit for suggesting an expedition by soldiers to the interior Pimas is here given to Father Polici. Manje takes the credit to himself. See Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, cap. 5, first paragraph: "y por estinguir yo el mai Concepto, con q nos abrasavan la venida de Evangelicos operarios pa. su Reduci6n con Cautela suplique al Genl. mi tio entrase una escuadra de soldados en conpa. del Pr. Kino y mia, a esta descubrimiento" (p. 49). 185 Kino and Manje left Dolores on November 2, with ten Indian servants, thirty horses, and presents for the Indians. They went via Remedios, Co cospera (where Father Pedro Ruiz de Contreras was stationed) San Lazaro, Santa Cruz de Gaybanipitea (here they were met by Bernal with the sol diers) and Quiburi where they arrived on the 9th (Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, cap. 15). Bernal in his diary says that he overtook Kino at Quiburi on the ninth. Kino gives circumstantial evidence to show the same thing, but Manje says that Bernal joined them on the seventh at Santa Cruz de Gaybanipitea (Diary, Nov. 7). 186 The principal authorities for this entrada, aside from the present work, are Manje's account in diary form (but with subsequent additions) one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 169 of Quiburi very jovial and very friendly. They were dancing over scalps and the spoils of fifteen enemies,187 Hocomes and Janos, whom they had killed a few days before. This was so pleasing to us that the Sefior Cap tain Christobal Martin Bernal, the Sefior alferez, the sergeant, and many others, entered the circle and danced merrily in company with the natives. More and more the captain was disposed to penetrate farther with me ; but many were of the opinion that it was impossible to go further and among the last Sobaipuris without two hundred men. To this I replied that one could pene trate to the last Sobaipuris as safely as one could go to Sonora, for their principal captains, El Humari, his two sons, and others, had come to be catechised and baptized, after Easter, during the previous months;188 that Captain Humari had been named Francisco Eu sebio, and his sons, now well-grown, one Francisco Xavier and the other Oracio Polise; that for a long time they had been inviting me most amicably to go to see them in their rancherias, lands, and valleys, which are about one hundred and twenty leagues189 from in Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, cap. 15, and the reports written by Bernal. These include a letter to Father Polici declaring the quiet state in which the Sobaipuris were found, dated at N. S. de Ios Dolores, December 2, 1697, and attested by Kino, Escalante, Acufia, and Barcelona. With this is Bernal's diary of the expedition beginning November 4 at Frontera de Santa Rosa de Corodeguachi, and ending at Dolores December 4, 1697. This also is witnessed by Kino and the others named. My copy is from the original Ms. in the Archivo General, Mexico, Misiones, vol. 26, and is labled "Vista y puesta en su lugar. X.A" [Xavier Alegre]. Secondary authorities for this entrada are Ortega, Apostdlicos Afanes, book ii, chap, vi, where he gives a brief summary of the Favores ; Alegre, Historia de la Com pania de Jesus, vol. iii, 102, makes brief mention of the expedition and quotes from Bernal's letter to Polici. 187 Kino says fifteen scalps, but Bernal gives the number as thirteen. 188 Manje states that it was the previous year that Humari was baptized (see Diary, entry for November 13). Kino doubtless knew the facts in the case. 189 Manje estimates two hundred leagues. Ibid. i7o MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. Thereupon it was de cided that the soldiers also should go. The following day, November io,190 the day of the Patronage of Most Holy Mary, the two captains, Chris- toval Martin Bernal and Juan Matheo Manje, con fessed and received communion, and we all together undertook the expedition191 of about thirty-five leagues to the north, by the same river and valley of Quiburi. We met with the first Sobaipuris and with Captain Humari192 himself, who had come three days' journey to meet us. Afterward, in seven or eight large ranch erias we found more than two thousand souls, all very friendly and industrious Indians,193 who, on hearing the 190 Both Manje and Bernal say that they stopped at Quiburi, starting on the eleventh. 191 Manje gives his itinerary as Dolores, Cocospora, San Lazaro, Santa Maria, San Joachin de Basosuca, Santa Cruz de Gaybanipitea, Quiburi, Paraje de Ios Alamos, Cusac, Jiaspi, Muyva, Arivavia, Tutoyda, Comarsuta, La Victoria (Busac and Tubo near-by), San Gregorio Taumaturgo, Casas Grandes, Tusonimo, San Andres, past a tank or Algive, Santa Catarina de Cuituabagu, Valle de Correa, San Agustin de Oiaur, San Xavier del Bac, San Caietano del Tumagacori, Guevavi, Bacuancos, San Lazaro, Santiago de Cocospora, Los Remedios, Dolores (compare names given by Bernal). 192 Manje shows that Humari's village was Victoria de Ojio, the last on the river to the north. Both Kino and Venegas place it east of the river. 193 Manje gives the following picture of the Indian settlements in the San Pedro valley: Santa Cruz de Gaybanipitea, a village of one hundred per sons, west of the river, contained twenty-five houses. They had irrigating ditches and raised extensive crops. At Kino's request they had built a house of adobe, beams, and terrado, and were tending for him about one hundred cattle. A league below was Quiburi, home of Captain Coro, head Pima chief. In great valleys they raised by irrigation large quantities of maize, frijoles, and cotton, the last of which they used for clothing. Quiburi had five hundred souls. Coro entertained the Spaniards in an earth-covered house of adobe, built for the purpose. For twenty-five leagues down the river all the villages had been abandoned within a year, on account of war between Chiefs Coro and Humari. At the end of that stretch was Cusac, of seventy souls, and two leagues beyond, Jiaspi, or Rosario, a village of one hundred twenty persons and twenty-seven houses. Here they were met by Chief Humari, who had already been baptized at Dolores. The visitors were re ceived in a specially prepared house of poles and reeds. Here as at Cusac and elsewhere, plentiful crops were raised of calabashes, frijoles, maize, and one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 171 Word of God and receiving good treatment offered us many little ones to baptize. We gave many staffs of justices, governors, and captains. In all parts they gave us many of their eatables, and always there were pro visions enough and to spare, without the soldiers having brought them from the presidio for so long a journey. Nor did we ever find the least trace of the droves of horses which so falsely had been charged to these in nocent Sobaipuris. For it was not they who had stolen them,194 but the hostile Jocomes, Xanos, etc., a vindica tion as worthy of being known as it is plainly set forth in the two long relations195 of the two captains who went on this expedition. CHAPTER VII. ARRIVAL AT THE RIO GRANDE AND CASA GRANDE AND THE RETURN TO NUESTRA SESrORA DE LOS DOLORES, HAVING TRAVELLED IN GOING AND RETURNING MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED AND SEVENTY LEAGUES IN PIMERIA Travelling always by the valleys of the Rio de Qui buri, we arrived at the Rio Grande, or Rio de Hila. And following its bank and its very large Cottonwood cotton, which was dextrously woven. Through the mediation of the Span iards, Coro and Humari now became reconciled. A league below Jiaspi was Muyva and within the next six leagues four more villages, the last be ing Arivavia. The four aggregated five hundred persons living in one hun dred and thirty houses, made of poles and reeds, in the form of "dome and gallery." Three leagues below was Tutoyda, of one hundred souls ; three more leagues brought them to Comarsuta, of eighty souls, and three to La Victoria de Ojio, a village of three hundred and eighty persons, and home of chief Humari. This was the last village before reaching the Gila, but off the road and near by were Busac and Tubo, comprising eighty-five men. Thus, in the valley below Santa Cruz lived more than two thousand people in fourteen villages, chief of which were Quiburi and1 La Victoria, headquarters of Coro and Humari, respectively. Compare Bernal's account. 194 Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 53, also mentions the fact that they saw no indications of horses. 196 He refers to the diaries and reports of Manje and Bernal. 172 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. groves, after travelling three days'196 journey to the west, we arrived at the Casa Grande197 and its neigh boring rancherias. As we journeyed we always had on the right hand 198 and in sight, but on the other bank of the river, the very extensive Apacheria. The soldiers were much delighted to see the Casa Grande. We mar veled at seeing that it was about a league from the river and without water; but afterward we saw that it had a large aqueduct with a very great embankment, which must have been three varas high and six or seven wide- wider than the causeway of Guadalupe at Mexico.199 This very great aqueduct, as is still seen, not only con ducted the water from the river to the Casa Grande, but at the same time, making a great turn, it watered and enclosed a champaign many leagues in length and breadth, and of very level and very rich land. With ease, also, one could now restore and roof the house and repair the great aqueduct for a very good pueblo, for there are near by six or seven rancherias of Pimas Sobaipuris200 all of whom in all places received us very kindly, with crosses and arches erected and with many of their eatables, and, with great pleasure to themselves, gave us many little ones to baptize. On one occasion, when several of our horses had been scattered and lost, 196 As a matter of fact, they were less than two full days, according to Manje. On the sixteenth, after having reached the junction, they went three leagues and camped; on the. seventeenth they went ten leagues; on the eighteenth, nine leagues to camp. Bernal gives the same report as to the time, making the distance less. 197 Manje, entry for the eighteenth (Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 57) gives a detailed description of the Casas Grandes. The largest of these, he says, was three stories high, except the principal room, which was four. The walls were two feet thick. 198 Both Manje and Bernal make it clear that they journeyed some dis tance south of the river. 199 See Manje's description. 200 Manje describes a rancheria on both banks, a league away, numbering one hundred and thirty souls. They were afraid of the horses and soldiers, never having seen any before (Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 58). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 173 they at once went in search of them, nor did they give up until they had collected them all for us. We very promptly passed on by the rancheria of la Encarnacion201 and arrived at that of San Andres,202 where the excellent Captain Juan de Palacios (who had been at Santa Maria de Baseraca, travelling in going and returning four hundred leagues) welcomed us with all affection, and with so many arches and crosses that they reached for more than two leagues. And, having spoken at San Andres with some of the Cocomaricopas, and even sent them messages that they might carry them to the not very distant Moquis of New Mexico, on the twenty-first of November, 1697, we began the return to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. We passed by the great rancheria and great valley of San Xavier del Bac,203 in which and its environs we saw and counted more than six thousand people, all very do mestic and very friendly. We found and killed cattle, sheep, and goats, and found even bread, fresh and very 201 Manje states that four leagues west of the Casa Grande they reached the rancheria of Tusdnimo, where there was a mound of mountain goat horns like a hill, the goat being their common food. Manje estimated one hundred thousand horns in the pile and two hundred souls in the village. This is the rancheria which they called La Encarnacion (Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 59; Bernal, Relation, 12). 202 Leaving at Tusonimo (La Encarnacion) the horses and soldiers under Barzelona, twelve soldiers went down stream seven leagues (Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 59). Kino was still with them (Bernal, Re lation, 12). Going seven leagues they came to the rancheria of San Andres, where lived Juan de Palacios, who had gone with Kino to Bazeraca and been baptized, being named in honor of the provincial of Mexico. Four hundred persons lived here (Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 59). 203 Manje (Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 60) states that they started home by way of Santa Catarina de Cuituabagu, La Valle de Correa, San Agustin de Oiaur, San Xavier del Bac, Tumagacori, Guevavi, Bacuancos, San Lazaro, Cocospera, Los Remedios, and thence to Dolores. Bernal gives the same list except that he omits Bacuancos and San Lazaro. There is a slight discrepancy also in the dates given by the two accounts. Manje (op. cit., libro ii, 63), has them at Guevavi on the twenty-seventh, then passing on to Bacuancos. Bernal has them in San Gayetano on the twenty-seventh, and in Guevavi on the twenty-eighth. 174 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. good, which they baked for us in the new oven which I had ordered at San Xavier del Bac. We arrived in time to celebrate the Feast of San Francisco Xavier on the third of December,204 in the church of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, with the chanting of mass and many confessions and communions, etc., in thanksgiving for so successful an entry, of which the captains and I wrote in long relations of four or five sheets.206 This entry was well received by all good men, because of the abundant and very clear evidence which was thereby se cured as to whether the farthest Sobaipuris were good or bad, friends or enemies, involved and culpable, or innocent of the robberies and hostilities of this prov ince. The father provincial wrote a very fine letter, and promised fathers for this Pimeria, and sent them; but the usual obstacles were not lacking to delay every thing, or almost everything.206 CHAPTER VIII. ANOTHER ENTRY TO THE WEST WITH A FATHER AND THE SENOR LIEU TENANT OF THIS PIMERIA207 Of the fathers whom the father provincial sent us, one was Father Gaspar de las Barillas,208 who came 204 According to Bernal they reached Dolores at 2 p.m. of December 2 (18). Manje says they arrived on December i, but the preceding paragraph indicates that it was the second. 206 He clearly refers to Bernal's reports, which he and others signed. 206 Sommervogel lists a map of New Mexico by Kino dated 1697, which may have been connected with this expedition. "Le P. Kino dressa en 1697 une carte du Nouveau-Mexique, d'apres la relation Ms. du P. Estevan de Perea. De L'Isle s'en servit pour la sienne." (Mem. de Trev., 1703, p. 676). Sommervogel, Bibliotheque, vol. 4, cols. 1044-1045. Quoted by Lowery, A Description List of Maps, p. 216. 207 The principal authorities for the events of this chapter, aside from the present, are Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 6; Ortega, Apostdlicos Afanes, 270; Alegre, Historia, vol. iii, 89. 208 Alegre (Historia, vol. iii, 89) states that Kino brought Barrillas back with him in 1696. Manje (Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 46) implies the same. But see ante, page 160. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 175 from Arispe to this mission of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores at the end of January; and having solemnized here the Feast of Candlemas, on February 3 209 we went inland to the Soba nation to the westward, that his Rev erence might choose one of the three new posts, Tubu tama, Consepcion, or Tucubabia, where, in each place, there were some beginnings of amission, some baptisms, a house, cattle, crops ,etc. With us went the present lieutenant of this Pimeria, Juan Ramos Sarmiento, and his predecessor, Captain Juan Matheo Manje. In all places we were received with all love and comfort, both to the natives and to ourselves. Also, we counted more than three thousand souls. Father Barrillas chose La Consepcion as a good site for a mission, and returned to Arispe for his baggage, etc., and to keep Holy Week and supply himself with what the superiors ordered given him. He entered La Consepcion in June, but be cause of certain pretended dangers, which have existed neither then nor since, as the soldiers went in and as certained, he left in July and has not returned. CHAPTER IX. THE HOSTILE HOCOMES AND XANOS ATTACK COCOSPERA, AND BURN THE CHURCH AND THE FATHER'S HOUSE 210 The revolted Hocomes, Sumas, and Apaches, who, ever since the uprising of the Xanos have been the avowed enemies of this province of Sonora, after so 209 Ortega (Apostdlicos Afanes, 270), says February 3, 1697, instead of 1698. 210 Accounts of this event are given in Kino's Breve Relatidn de la In- signe Victoria; Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, cap. 5 (65-66); Ortega, Apostdlicos Afanes, 270-271; Alegre, Historia, vol. iii, 100-101. References are made to it in Kino's Colocasidn de Nuestra Senora de Ios Remedios. It is clear that both Alegre and Ortega used the Favores for their accounts. Since writing the foregoing sentences I have acquired a report of the event by Jironza to the viceroy, dated at San Juan Bautista, Sonora, May 16, 1698 (A.G.I. 67-3-28). According to Bernal, on September 15, 1697, the Sobaipuris of the north- 176 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. many robberies, damages, and murders which they have for so many years and so continuously perpetrated all over the province and on its frontiers, on the twenty- fifth of February, 1697,211 made an attack on Coco spora,212 at a time when the pueblo was without men, for they had gone inland to barter maize; and al though one of the enemy was left dead, they killed two Indian women, sacked the pueblo, burned it, the church, and also the house of the father, who was de fended by the few natives who had remained. The en emy carried off some horses and all the small stock, and retired to the hills. A few from Cocospera followed him, but when he saw them coming he ambushed them and killed nine of them. The garrison planned to make an expedition inland, and we notified the natives that east and of San Xavier del Bac attacked the Jocomes, killing four and taking two children prisoners; on October 26 they attacked the Jocomes and killed thirteen; and in December reconnoitered the country of the enemy (Relacidn del Estado). It would seem that the attacks on Cocospera and Quiburi were in retaliation for these Pima aggressions. 211 This date should be 1698, although Kino elsewhere gives it as 1697. Kino correctly gives it as 1698 in his Breve Relacidn written May 3, 1698, just after the event and in his Relacidn Diaria of 1698. Manje (Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 65) gives the date 1698; Kino, in his Colocasidn, written in 1698, refers to the attack of September 15, 1697, as the first attack of the Jocomes; and refers to the subsequent fight of March 30, "de este presente ano de 98" (2) ; Alegre erroneously gives the date as 1697; Ban croft gives the date 1698, but Ortega (Apostdlicos Afanes, 270-271) careless ly follows Kino's Favores; Alegre tells of a previous attack on the pueblo of Jesus Maria, but puts this event before the expedition of 1697 to the Gila (Historia, vol. iii, 100). Jironza, reporting the event, gives the date as March 30, 1698 (letter to viceroy, May 16, 1698. A.G.I. 67-3-28). 212 Manje (Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 83) in recounting this at tack on Cocospera, tells of Father Ruiz's brave resistance, aided by the Indian governor, Juan Maria. According to him the enemy was three hundred strong. He tells of the burning of the house but not of the church; he says that the presidials and Pimas overtook the enemy in Sierra de Chiguicagui, killed thirty, captured sixteen, and recovered some horses. Kino's account gives a different impression. Manje adds that because of the burning of the mission Father Ruiz and the neophytes abandoned it (Luz de Tierra In cdgnita, libro ii, 83). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 177 they should provide themselves with arms to accom pany the soldiers.213 In the meantime, while the enemy was being despoiled of the supplies which he had taken from Cocospera, he made an attack on the ranch eria of Santa Cruz de Quiburi, on the twenty-ninth of March, day of the Feast of the Resurrection of our Lord. 218 Kino, in his Breve Relacidn, mentions the same preparation for a cam paign. Jironza gives more detail. He tells (letter to viceroy, May 16, 1698) that he arranged to make a joint expedition with two hundred or three hundred Pima allies, and was awaiting them, ready to set out, when he heard the news of the victory of March 30, 1698. BOOK VI. VICTORY OF THE PIMAS OVER THE ENEMIES OF THIS PROVINCE OF SONORA, THE HOCOMES, XANOS, SU MAS, MANSOS, AND APACHES214 CHAPTER I. THE HOSTILE JOCOMES, XANOS, ETC., ATTACK THE RANCHERIA OF SANTA CRUZ DE QUIBURI 215 MARCH 30, i698.215a The avowed enemies, the Hocomes, Sumas, Mansos, and Apaches, who between great and small numbered about six hundred, persuad ing themselves that they could accomplish in Santa Cruz del Rio de Quiburi what they had done the month before in the pueblo of Cocospera, showed their arro gance by attacking the rancheria at daybreak on the morning of March 30. They killed its captain and two or three others, and forced them to retreat to their fortification, which consisted of a house of adobe and earth with embrasures.216 But the enemy, defending themselves and covering themselves with many buck skins, approached the fortification, climbed upon its 214 For other accounts of this episode, see Kino, Breve Relacidn; Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, 65-66; Ortega, Apostdlicos Afanes, 270-271; Ban croft, North Mexican States, vol. i, 274; Alegre, Historia, vol. iii, 100-101 (under 1697, erroneously). A newly discovered source is Jironza's letter to the viceroy, May 16, 1698 (A.G.I. 67-3-28). 215 Kino calls it Santa Cruz de Quiburi; Manje (Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 65) Santa Cruz de Taybanipitca ; Alegre (Historia, vol. iii, too) Santa Cruz de Cuervo. 215a The text reads 1697, but this is a slip. See ante, page 176, footnote 211. 216 Manje states that this fortification was the adobe house built by the Indians at the instance of the Spaniards — evidently since Kino's visit in 1697 (op. cit.). Kino, in his Breve Relacidn, states that they "retreated to their corral and fortification of adobe y terrado." EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 179 roof, destroying and burning it, and with a shot killed one man,217 for they had one of the arquebuses which on other occasions they had taken from the soldiers. They sacked and burned the rancheria, killed three cattle and three mares of the ranch which I had here, and began to roast and stew meat and beans, and to parch and grind maize for their pinole, both the men and the women, who had all fought as equals, consider ing themselves as already quite victorious. CHAPTER II. CAPTAIN CORO WITH HIS PIMAS OF QUIBURI COMES TO THE RESCUE, AND THEY KILL MORE THAN THREE HUNDRED HOSTILE JOCOMES, MANSOS, SUMAS, AND APACHES But meantime the news reached the neighboring rancheria of Quiburi, which is a league and a half from Santa Cruz, and immediately its captain, called El Coro, came to the rescue with his brave people, together with other Pimas who had come from the west to barter for maize, and who contributed to the fortunate out come of the event,218 for they were supplied with the arms which we had bidden them to provide to go on the expedition with the soldiers of the presidio. The cap tain of the enemy, called El Capotcari,219 proposed- for with Captain Coro came many Pimas -that they should fight, ten on one side and ten on the other. Captain Coro accepted the proposal, and selected ten Pimas, 217 Manje says that they killed three Pimas. Kino accounts for four or five dead. Jironza says that four were killed and ten wounded. 218 Manje says that five hundred came to the rescue of Quiburi, where they had gathered to go with the soldiers in a campaign against the enemy, doubtless the campaign referred to by Jironza. Kino (Breve Relacidn) says that they came "From the environs of San Javier del Bac." When near the Gila in October, 1698, Kino learned that the chief of San Bonifacio, whom he met, had been, with his braves, among those who aided in the victory at Quiburi (Relation Diaria). 219 Alegre gives the name "Capoteari." 180 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. while Captain Capotcari selected ten others, the most valiant of all he had. Five were Apaches, as was also one of the other five. They began shooting their arrows, and, as the Pimas are very dexterous in shooting and also in parrying the arrows of their adversaries, and as the Apaches, al though dexterous in shooting arrows and with the lance, are not dexterous in parrying the arrows, five Pimas soon wounded the five Apaches who were their antag onists, as did four other Pimas their adversaries, the Hocomes and Xanos. Captain Capotcari was very skillful in catching the arrows, but his opponent, a valiant Pima, grappled with him and, struggling, threw him to the ground and beat his head with stones.220 Thereupon all the rest of the enemy began to flee, and the Pimas followed them through all those woods and hills for more than four leagues, killing and wounding more than three hundred, of whom fifty-odd221 re mained dead and stretched out nearby, and the rest, as they were wounded with the poisonous herb, died along 220 Manje does not tell this remarkable tale, nor, strangely enough, does Kino tell it in his Breve Relacidn, written May 3-October 25, especially to re port the event. Kino's account therein of the victory is as follows: "And having conferred mouth to mouth with the principal captain of the hostile Jocomes, called Copotiari (Capotcari), said Copotiari said that Captain Coro and all his Pima men were not men but women; that the Spaniards with whom he had been joined by the padres were not brave; that he frequently had killed many of them and of the soldiers likewise. Thereupon the Pimas became so angered that a valiant fellow came up and knocked him down and pounded him, and the rest proceeded with like valor. They pursued their companions more than two leagues, killing them, so that there escaped only six, who were riding as many horses belonging to Cocospera." Jironza tells the story of the individual combat, much as Kino gives it here in the Favores (Letter to viceroy, May 16, 1698). 221 Manje (Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 66) says that sixty enemies were killed and one hundred sixty-eight died of poisoned arrows. Jironza says that thirty-two men and twenty-two women were killed, and many wounded, all of whom would die, "because of our knowledge of the very strong poison from the herb with which they prepare their arrows." one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 181 the trails. The remainder, about three hundred, went after this ill fortune, and from fear of the Pimas, as they confessed, to ask and to offer peace in the presidio of Xanos to Sefior General Juan Fernandez de la Fuente, in El Passo, New Mexico,222 to Maestre de Campo228 Luys Granillo, and in the pueblo of Socorro, as the letters and authentic reports from there attested. And there have remained still in revolt only sixteen braves and twenty-seven non-combatants.224 CHAPTER III. THE REPORTS OF THIS VICTORY WERE WELL RECEIVED IN ALL PARTS, AND IN THE REAL DE SAN JUAN WITH RINGING OF BELLS 225 Captain Coro and the natives informed me immedi ately of the occurrence by a messenger, sending me the news and the count of the dead on a long stick. By an other messenger I advised the Sefior military command er and other fathers and seculars in the Real de San Juan and in other parts, of the fortunate event, and they responded with great joy and pleasure. The Sefior military commander said that this victory would serve for the complete relief of all the province ; and he agreed to give the presents which his Lordship two months before had promised these Pimas if they would strike a good blow. The father visitor wrote that he was giving 222 Manje (Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 66) says that the Janos separated from the Apache to make peace at El Paso. 223 A militia officer of superior rank commanding a division of troops. Compare the French mestre de camp, a colonel of infantry or cavalry. The maestre de campo was a common official on the northern frontier in the sev enteenth and eighteenth centuries. 224 De Chusma. "Muchedumbre de familias de Indios, excepto Ios hom- bres de guerra, 6 sea conjunto de mujeres, nirios, y viejos que componen una tolderia 6 campamento de Indios." I.e. non-combatants. 225 This chapter is in part almost an exact copy of Kino's Breve Relacidn of May 3, 1698. 1 82 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. a thousand thanks to his Divine Majesty for the very fortunate event. The father rector of Matape dedi cated a mass and a solemn feast to the Most Holy Trin ity for the good fortune. The Sefior lieutenant of the Real de San Juan226 said: "To your Reverence and to all the province I give hearty congratulations for so happy a victory of the natives; and here we are all felicitating both our Lord and Most Holy Mary, and ringing the bells for it." Captain Pedro Garzia de Almazan gave thanks on his own behalf and on behalf of the citizens of the Real de San Juan and of the Real de Nacosari; and he offered227 and gave presents for those Pimas, as did also the father rector of Matape, Father Juan Munos de Burgos, and Captain Francisco de Escarsega. Nevertheless, the opposition of those ill disposed could not fail, as the letter of a certain prominent per son indicates, in these words : "We are greatly rejoiced at the good news and the victory of the Pimas, and that the excellence of their work may be seen and the lie be given to many opponents who calumniated them with falsehoods." Whereupon, I called the Sefior lieutenant of this Pimeria to draw up the certificate and legalized investigation of what had happened. I went in the fifty leagues to Santa Cruz de Quiburi, and on the twenty-third of April we viewed the dead bodies of the enemy. We encountered the twenty-two soldiers who also, because of the incredulous, had come in, by way of Terrenate, and who were actually investigating the 226 Antonio Morales. (See Kino, Breve Relation). 227 They offered five hundred pesos in clothing (Kino, Breve Relacidn). Jironza tells us that before this victory, through his lieutenant and "Padre Quino" he had promised the Pimas two thousand pesos in clothing, and that he would gladly keep his promise now, since a campaign would cost more than that amount in pinole, meat, and tobacco (letter of May 16, 1698). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 183 above mentioned and contradicted deaths. We saw and counted fifty-four corpses nearby, thirty-one of men, and twenty-three of women. The natives gave us va rious spoils, which we brought away with us, among them an arquebus, powder, and balls, a leathern jacket, buffalo and deer skins, bows and arrows, and scalps of the above mentioned enemies. Of the Pima natives in the rancheria of Santa Cruz five died, and nine were wounded but recovered.228 228 This paragraph is taken directly from Kino's Breve Relacidn. Manje (Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 66) states that it was Alferez Juan de Escalante, who, with Manje and twenty soldiers, went to certify to the deaths. He states that for seven leagues they followed the battle-march, counting six ty dead, and that it was reported that one hundred and sixty-eight died of poi soned arrows. He says nothing of Kino's part in spreading the news nor of his going to count the dead. Jironza tells us that he sent Escalante with twenty-five men to view the signs of the victory and to enlist the Pimas to pursue the enemy. The Pimas made excuses, and he did not urge them, since there were "recent allies" (letter of May 16, 1698). Kino took ad vantage of the victory above recounted to appeal for ten or twelve new missionaries. Indeed, this was the purpose for which the Breve Relacidn was written. 184 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol CHAPTER IV. ANOTHER GREAT EXPEDITION TO THE COAST OF THE SEA OF CALIFORNIA, IN WHICH ARE DISCOVERED AND REDUCED MORE THAN FOUR THOUSAND NEW PIMA INDIANS, WHO GIVE US FOUR HUNDRED AND THIRTY-FIVE INFANTS TO BAPTIZE 229 This journey,230 or mission, I relate in the letter which I wrote to the father visitor, and is as follows : My Father Visitor Oracio Polise, Pax Christi: In obedience to your Reverence's charge that I should 229 The principal original authorities for this first exploration of a route through southwestern Arizona have been: Kino, Relasidn Diaria de la En trada al nortueste of which the editor discovered the original (see "Bibliog raphy") ; Kino, Carta del Padre Eusevio Kino al Padre visitador II oracio Polici acerca de una entrada al Noroeste (see "Bibliography"). This letter is almost identical with the one copied by Kino in the present chapter, and, although the latter is dated October 20, yet there can be little doubt but that it should be the eighteenth. Bancroft did not have access to the diary, and asserted that it was not extant, this being another example of an un- forunate tendency of that author, who seemed to think that he had all the material that could ever be assembled. He says: "accompanied by Captain Diego Carrasco instead of Mange, an unfortunate substitute for the his torical student, as the original diary is not extant" (North Mexican States and Texas, vol. i, 266) ; again: "but unfortunately, Manje's place was taken by Captain Carrasco, and no particulars affecting Arizona are extant" (Arizona and New Mexico, 357). Alegre (Historia, vol. iii, 103-104) used Kino's diary, and Ortega (Apostdlicos Afanes, 272-273) summarizes the Favores, but does not use the diary, for which Alegre criticises him (op. cit.). Bancroft draws a wrong inference from the date October 20, copied by Ortega from the letter of October 18. He says of the letter of the eighteenth: "This is a hasty letter written before he had time to copy his regular diary, which was sent on October twentieth" (North Mexican States, vol. i, 266). It seems improbable that Kino would have sent two identical letters two days apart. As a matter of fact, the copy of the diary contained at the back of the Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro, i, is dated December 8, 1698. This copy was used by Bandelier as early as 1890, but he evidently did not study Kino's route carefully. (See Final Report, vol. i, in). The editor was the discoverer of the original of the diary, and is the first to make extensive use of it. Not only has the original of Kino's diary been recovered, but, still further 230 Bancroft follows Kino, Carta, October 18 ; Ortega, Apostdlicos Afanes, 272-274; Alegre, Historia Compania de Jesus, vol. iii, 203-204 (Alegre saw Kino's diary) ; Venegas, Noticia, vol. ii, 91-92 ; Lockman, Travels, vol. i, 355. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 185 go inland to the exploration of the northwest coast and the disemboguement of the Rio Grande into the Sea of California, in order to report to the father provincial and his Excellency, who command that the new con versions be encouraged and that a hand be given231 to Father Juan Maria Salvatierra by way of northwest, I went in, travelling in going and returning more than three hundred leagues. I took with me Captain Diego Carrasco, present lieutenant of this Pimeria, who also gives an account of what has happened and been seen, to the Sefior alcalde mayor and military commander of this province.232 And now that I have just arrived with setting aside Bancroft's view, the editor has recently secured a diary of the expedition kept by Carrasco, together with Jironza's instructions to Carrasco and his report to the viceroy. These new materials constitute an expediente in the Archivo de Indias (67-3-28!). They comprise (a) a report by Jironza to the viceroy on May 16, 1698, recounting the Pima victory of March 30; (b) Jironza's instructions to Captain Diego Carrasco, September 15, 1698 (he was expressly instructed to hunt for a quicksilver mine reported to be in the Sobaipuris nation, to give staves of office to the chiefs, and not to leave Kino till he should be restored to his mission) ; (d) Carrasco's official diary, called Diario fecho, etc., a close copy or pharaphrase of Kino's diary; (d) a report by Carrasco to Jironza, dated at Dolores, October 18, and giving a brief account of the expedition; (e) a report by Jironza to the viceroy, recounting the expedition, San Juan Baptista, March 8, 1699; (f) a dictamen fiscal concerning the matter by Lie. Baltazar de Tobar, Mexico, October 19, 1699. 231 This phrase corrects a mistake in the Memorias version of the Carta of October 18. That reads "y se le demonsro al P. Juan Maria," etc. This and the Relasion Diaria read "y se le de mano al Pe. Ju. Maria," etc. In the Relasion Diaria Kino states that the journey was made in obedience to a letter by Visitor Polici to Father Mora, rector, and transmitted to Kino, who incorporates part of Father Mora's letter. Kino notes that for some months he had been in poor health, but, nevertheless, he assembled the necessary outfit and set out with twenty-five horses. Forty had been sent ahead five days before to Bac and twenty others were to set out ten days afterward for Caborca, to meet them for the return journey. 282 Domingo Jironza Petris de Cruzat. It is interesting to note the slightly differing emphasis of Kino and Jironza (who were the best of friends) in speaking of the aims of the expedition. In his instructions to Carrasco (September 15, 1698, A.G.I., 67-3-28) Jironza recites that "Quino" has reported that he is "about to make a journey to explore the Rio Grande i86 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. all prosperity, thanks be to the Lord, while I am mak ing a fair copy of the daily relation, with its map,233 I report to your Reverence how, on the twenty-second of September, day of the most holy name of Most Holy Mary, we set out from this pueblo of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores with the governor of this place and seven other persons, my servants, and with more than sixty pack animals, going inland toward the north and north west23* to the Rio and Casa Grande, a journey of more than one hundred leagues.235 In the rancheria of La Encarnacion, that of San Andres, and in those nearby, we were received with all kindness, with crosses and arches erected, and with many of their eatables, by more than one thousand souls, men and women. In the rancheria of San Andres there came to render us obedi ence the Opas 236 and Cocomaricopas, who are a people of very distinct dress, features, and language,237 though connected by marriage with the Pimas, and very affable and its disemboguement into the California Sea." Therefore, since the journey is through hostile country Carrasco is ordered to go to assist Kino, keep a diary, give Saints' names to the Indian villages, count the inhabitants, make note of water supply and distances, appoint and give bastones of office to governors of the villages, "and especially" to do his best to discover the quicksilver mine reported among the Sobaipuris. 233 1 have not seen this map, nor have I seen any other mention of it. 234 Kino's Carta has it "Norte y Noreste." 285 The Relasion Diaria gives the following itinerary: Dolores, Los Remedios, San Lazaro, Bacoancos, Guebavi, San Cayetano, San Xavier del Bac, San Augustin del Oyaut, San Clemente, Santa Catalina del Caitoabagum, the Algive (tank), Encarnacion (on the Gila) ; San Andres, San Angelo del Botum, San Bonifacio del Coati y del Sibuoidag, San Francisco del Adid, Anagam, Cubit tubig and Gaga near-by), San Serafin, three unnamed villages, Nuestra Sefiora de la Merced del Batqui, or Bat Ki (Baggibuributa or Babgiturituto and Ooteam near-by), San Rafael del Actum Grande, San Marcelo del Sonoidag, San Serguio, Santa Brigida, toward the sea, up Cerro de Santa Brigida (Santa Clara), San Marcelo, San Luis Bertrando del Bacapa, San Eduardo del Baipia, Caborca, San Diego del Pit quin, Santa Teresa del Addi, Tubutama (here Kino received a letter from Captain Bernal), Tuputi, Magdalena, Dolores, reached October 18. 236 The Opas are not mentioned in the Carta. 237 This passage corrects the Carta, which says: "Que es gente de mas instinto y mejor semblante y trage como en su hidioma, pero muy afable." one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 187 and docile. They desire to be Christians like the Pimas. We comforted them, giving them a captain, a governor, and a fiscal mayor, good hopes of salvation,238 and friendly messages for all their nation, etc. Afterward we set out for the south, the southwest, and the west, going about eighty leagues,239 and, arriv ing at the Sea of California, under the lee of the estuary of the Rio Grande we found a very good port or bay in thirty-two degrees' latitude, with fresh water and tim ber. It must be the port which the ancient geographers called the Puerto de Santa Clara.240 Its entrance trends from southwest to northeast, and it has a moun tain chain to the west. We came from the Rio Grande to La Consepcion, reconnoitering the whole northwest coast, which is more than ninety241 leagues long, from north to south, and has more than forty rancherias, great and small together, all the people so friendly, so docile, and so affable, that in all places they received us in houses made ready, with crosses and arches erected, giving us many of their very plentiful pitajayas, and hares, deer, rabbits, etc., from their hunts, and with much rejoicing, feasts, dances, and songs by day and by night. We counted in these rancherias more than four thousand persons, and they gave us to baptize four hun dred and thirty-five little ones, for the most of whom Captain Diego Carrasco was godfather. In the single rancheria of San Francisco del Adid,242 to which we The Relasion Diaria says: "vimos como el traje hasi en Ios mugeres y la lengua es mui diferente de la de Ios pimas." 238 Lacking from the Carta. 239 Several words here omitted from the Carta. 240 Adair Bay. Lumholtz (op. cit., 197) remarks that although the Jesuits were the first to open the trail from Sonoita to the Gila, "there is no evidence to show that they ever traversed the country to the south of it, at least west of Sonoita." My map shows, however, that Kino made four journeys into the Sierra del Pinacate (Santa Clara) region over the very trails followed two hundred and ten years later by Lumholtz. 241 The Carta has it "ochenta." 242 The Carta has it "Assis," manifestly a mistake. 1 88 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. gave the name of this most glorious patriarch and great patron, San Francisco Xavier,242a inasmuch as in it on the fourth of October we kept his holy day, they gave us after the mass of the saint one hundred and two little ones to baptize. In the afternoon we went two243 leagues farther, to another rancheria, which we named San Seraphin, and they gave us to baptize sixty-five other little ones. From there, passing by La Merced del Batqui and San Raphael del Actum, a journey of about thirty-two leagues to the west,244 we arrived at San Marzelo del Sonoidag, a post very suitable for a great settlement, be cause it has very good pastures and rich lands, with their irrigation ditches, and with water which runs to the port above mentioned, from which it is only twenty leagues by very level road. From San Marzelo I dis patched very friendly messages to the north. In this entry we gave more than forty staves of captains, gov ernors, alcaldes, and fiscals.245 We came by way of La Consepcion, passing at fifteen leagues southward from San Marzelo the rancheria of Bacapa, whither came the very Reverend Father Fray Marcos de Niza in his apostolic peregrination, and where he had reports, which he puts in his book, of the Seven Cities to the north and northeast. After about forty leagues' journey we reached La 242a Evidently a mistake for "Asis," as Oct. 4 is the feast of St. Francis of Asisi. 243 The Relasion Diaria gives this as three leagues. 244 Most of these place names are omitted from the Carta. The Relasion Diaria does not give the direction at this point. 245 Kino fails to mention a journey which he made at this time from Sonoita west. On October 8 they left Sonoita for the Gulf. On the way they passed San Sergio, and reached Santa Brigida, a village near the Gulf coast. On the ninth they climbed the near-by mountain of Santa Brigida or Santa Clara, and viewed the Gulf. On the tenth they returned to San Sergio and San Marcelo (Relasion Diaria). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 189 Consepcion, and twenty-two leagues to the eastward we came to El Tubutama, in each of which places there are cattle, sheep and goats, wheat, maize, and a house of adobe for the fathers whom they hope to obtain. For this these natives as well as those of Tucubabia and those of San Luys supplicate and pray very fervently, tending the crops for that purpose. And I, for the ease of my conscience, commend them strongly to the fatherly protection of your Reverence, that you may be pleased to contribute to their receiving this full and only means of their eternal salvation. It has been an especial comfort to us that I have been able to say mass every day therefor, although many days we travelled twenty and twenty-two leagues, on account of the good pastures, good roads, good pack-animals, and super abundant provisions, all these natives guiding and ac companying us with all love, and, if the occasion de manded, coming to meet us with many jars of water many leagues' journey. Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, Oct. 20, 1698. Your Reverence's humble servant, Eusevio Francisco Kino.246 chapter v. opinions and reports received in regard to the above-mentioned happy entry The entry which I have just related was the occasion of the greatest comfort to Father Visitor Oracio Palise and to the military commander;247 and they, like many 246 At the end of his Relasion Diaria Kino wrote a several page report entitled Del estado, gracias al Senor, Pasifico y quieto de esta dilatada Pimeria y de la Prova. de Sonora, 1698 a. It is an emphatic refutation of the charges that the Pimas are hostile and that the population of Pimeria Alta is small. By actual figures he shows that the population of the explored parts was more than sixteen thousand. He closes by saying that Pimeria Alta will be able to aid in converting California, "the largest island in the world." 247 In his report of March 8, 1699, to the viceroy, Jironza emphasized the importance of the victory of March 30, the great number of Indians en- 1 90 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. others, expressed their gratification thereat in long and very fine letters. Especially rejoiced at this entry were the fathers of California, who, on seeing this coast al ready so well subdued, determined with the other con querors of California to ascend higher; and their rev erences afterward wrote me the two letters given here. Father Juan Maria Salvatierra speaks thus : Quod felix faustum fortunatumque sit.2ia Much have I re joiced and much has Father Francisco Maria Picolo rejoiced in the new, glorious entry from the Rio Grande ; and we are desir ous of knowing whether from that new coast which your Rever ence traversed California may be seen, and what sign there is on that side whether this narrow sea is landlocked. We and all the people of this camp are pleased, and all salute your Rever ence. I have just now received two letters from your Reverence, the first being dated October 21, shortly after you had returned from your apostolic journey in this direction. Over here, if we had not already entered and set foot on this land we know not what next. But this now depends on nothing but following up the advan tage gained, there being Christmas already. I tell your Reverence this that you may not be cast down with contradic tions and rumors. As for the map, it will be made by Father Francisco Maria in August, after a voyage of discovery has been made in the boats as far as latitude thirty-five degrees or a little higher. I should greatly rejoice if your Reverence would come on this voyage of discovery, for thus you could disembark on the Rio Grande, by coming here after the harvest and the ingather ing of the wheat. Your Reverence might embark at Hyaqui,249 and upon your arrival here we should all set sail, your Rever ence, Sebastian Romero, and one of us, with twelve soldiers, and countered in the last journey, and the desire of the Sobaipuris for mission aries. The fiscal, Tobar, on October 16 recommended that Kino be asked fol more explicit reports regarding the need of missionaries (AG.I. 67-3-28). 248 "May it be happy, joyful, and fortunate." This is a common formula, e.g. Quod bonum, faustum, fortunatumque esset (Cic. Div. I, 45, 102); Ut nobis haec habitatio Bona, fausta, felix, fortunataque eveniat (Plaut. Trin. i, 2. 3). 249 Yaqui. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 191 we should sail well up this coast, after going up to thirty-six degrees on the coasts of the Pimeria. It has rained much here all this winter, and this whole land is as fragrant as a sweet-smelling garden ; and if there had been lands prepared, much seed could have been sown, and all would have brought forth fruit; but one can not do everything. I thank your Reverence for your kindness to this your mission. I have been greatly pleased to learn of the placing of the image of Our Lady of Remedies in her pueblo so persecuted; and in deed I am moved to tenderness on reading of it. This Lady is to be the remedy for everything. With this I close, beseeching you not to forget me in your holy prayers and holy sacrifices. Loreto Concho, March 28, 1699. From your Reverence's ser vant in Christ. Juan Maria Salvatierra. Father Francisco Maria Picolo writes thus : May His Divine Majesty preserve for me my well beloved Father Eusevio Francisco Kino many happy years, multiplied in the glorious progress of your work of conversion. With the greatest pleasure I have read of the entry which your Reverence made from the Rio Grande, skirting by land the coast of the strait of our California, and I give your Reverence a thousand congratulations. In the name of Jesus may you snatch from the devil all those souls, and in spite of all hell, Ylluminareiis qui in tenebris et in umbra mortis sedent.2S0 By hearing of your heroic deeds I in my humility am encouraged to do something for the greater glory of the Lord, whom I pray to grant your Reverence many happy Easters. I hope on another and more favorable occasion to write your Reverence at greater length, reporting to you in detail the state of things here, which, because they are under the protection of our Lady 251 are prospering. Cheer me, your Reverence, with your most welcome news, for as soon as the ships arrive we shall try to go to the port which your Rever ence discovered; and in the Holy Sacrifices do not forget this your useless servant and brother, Loreto Concho, March 27, 1699. Your Reverence's humble servant and brother. Francisco Maria Picolo. 2bo "To enlighten them that sit in darkness and in the shadow of death" (Luke, i, 79. Illuminare his qui in tenebris et in umbra mortis sedent). Kino doubtless quotes from memory here. 251 Our Lady of Loreto. 192 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Thus far the fathers of California. But the accus tomed contradiction and opposition, delayer and hin- derer of the coming of the fathers, were not lacking. Although from their beginnings the reports to Mexico and Parral had been favorable, now those ill-disposed sent other and very contrary reports, which made it im possible to send the fathers necessary, according to the accounts which from Mexico have been written to me of the opposition and these false and very hostile stories. They were to the effect that the Cocomaricopas and other new nations of the Rio Grande, to the westward of La Encarnacion and San Andres, and of the Rio Colorado to the northwest, whither we did not pene trate, were so barbarous and such cannibals that they roasted and ate people, and they added other unheard of chimeras. But our Lord willed that in another entry, even greater than that related -the next chapter tells of it- a few months afterward, we found, passing through all those rancherias, everything quite the contrary, and the greatest affability and friendship on the part of all those natives, without the least trace, sign, or indication of such or so falsely pretended roastings of people. And our happiness in the face of such false reports was that we had left in San Andres, as in San Marzelo, very good messages or talks for all the new nations farther on, asking them to advise me whether they wished me to come to see them, and saying that all would be for their good. And as a few weeks afterward there came to me from all parts most friendly replies and invita tions and prayers that I should go to see them, and speak to them of their eternal salvation, having com municated these things to the father visitor, I deter mined to make another entry or mission, and to pene trate much farther than hitherto. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 193 CHAPTER VI. ANOTHER GREAT ENTRY, IN WHICH ARE DISCOVERED MORE THAN EIGHTY LEAGUES OF LANDS AND NEW PEOPLES; FROM THE RIO GRANDE THE RIO AZUL IS SIGHTED; DETAILED INFOR MATION IS SECURED IN REGARD TO THE VERY POPULOUS AND VERY LARGE RIO COLORADO NEAR-BY; AND THE NEW YUMA NATION IS REDUCED252 February 7, 1699. In order to effect a clear refuta tion and dispersion of the calumny which had been raised against those new nations of the Rio Grande, etc., and having gone to the Real de San Juan to secure from the alcalde mayor a lieutenant who could give an authenticated report of everything,253 on February 7 we began this entry, the Sefior Lieutenant Juan Matheo Manje, Father Adamo Gilg, and I, with some servants and more than ninety pack animals.264 We entered by the northwest to San Marzelo del Sonoidag,265 where a 252 A full diary account of this expedition is given by Manje in Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, cap. 6, entitled Relacion diaria q kice con Ios R. Padres Eusebio Franco. Kino y Adamo Gilg Jesuitas pr. el norueste a descubrir Ios Caudalos{os] Rios Colorado, y Jila, y Naciones Pimas, Yumas y Cocomaricopas en q sitan sus Pueblos, desde 7 de febrero asta catorce de Marzo de 1699 de 380 leguas de yda y buelta, Campana de Ios Soldados, pp. 66-84. Brief accounts are in Bancroft, North Mexican States and Texas, vol. i, 269-271 ; Bancroft, Arizona and New Mexico, 357. Ortega, Apostdlicos Afanes, 282-285 ! Alegre, Historia de la Compania de Jesus, vol. iii, 117-118. In his report of March 8, 1699, to the viceroy, Jironza states that Manje went in February to the Colorado where the quicksilver mines had been re ported (A. G.I. 67-3-28). 253 According to Manje the missionaries asked General Jironza, com mander of the Compania Volante of Sonora, and Captain Ruiz de Avechuco, alcalde mayor of Sonora, for the services of Manje. Manje left the Real de San Juan Bautista, "capital" of the province, on January 6, 1699, with title of teniente de alcalde mayor y capitan d guerra. Traveling the forty leagues intervening, he arrived at Dolores on January 9. The departure thence was delayed by rains (Luz de Tierra Incognita, libro ii, 67). 254 Manje (ibid., 67) says "eight loads of provisions, eighty horses, and vestments for saying mass." 265 Manje gives the details. On the seventh they crossed the Sierra del Comedio, ten leagues, to San Ygnacio Caborica, where Campos was sta tioned ; on the eighth, three leagues to Santa Magdalena de Buquivaba, thence 194 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. new ranch was begun, with thirty-six head of cattle which I ordered sent ahead for the fathers of Cali fornia, if perchance they should go up to the near-by port of Santa Clara.256 Passing very near it, we entered upon the more than forty leagues of coast and new road between there and the mouth of the Rio Grande 257 and its confluence with the Rio Colorado. By the natives whom we found along this road we were received with all love. We spent the twenty-second of February, the day of the Chair of St. Peter in Antioch, on the Rio Grande, whither more than fifty natives, Pimas, Yumas, Opas, and Cocomaricopas, had gathered; and we named the post and rancheria San Pedro, as another rancheria lower down was named San Pablo.258 And because eighty leagues farther to the east, on this past Tupo to the Laguna del Tupo, nine leagues for the day. Here they found flax (lino) growing. On the ninth, twelve leagues to San Pedro del Tubutama. Since the revolt the Indians here had not had a pastor but Campos visited them annually. On the tenth, seventeen leagues to Saric, then past Busanic, and three leagues more to Tucubavia. Here and in the vicin ity of Tubutama there were two thousand Indians suitable for a good mission. On the eleventh, ten leagues west to El Guvo Verde, so called because of a tank of rain water used by the Indians. On the twelfth, five leagues west to the clear spring of Santa Eolalia, with a village near by. Here they were shown a great cave, formerly inhabited by a giant, which Manje describes with great vividness. Four leagues more to a small tank. On the thirteenth, five leagues to a flowing stream near a high, square Penasco, visible for eighteen leagues like a castle. They called it Noah's Ark. Five more leagues to an arroyo. Sonoita was reached on the sixteenth. 25a The chief here was made governor, and he and others went with the party as guides. Setting out on the seventeenth, they passed Carrizal, then twenty leagues to Aguaje de la Luna; twelve leagues to another good aguaje; fifteen leagues to Las Tinajas; six leagues to the Rio Grande, reached on the twenty-first (Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 71 et seq. 257 The Gila River. 258 Manje gives a long description of the Indians at this point (Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 72 et seq.). The Opas and Cocomaricopas are identical with the Maricopas, who still live with and below the Pimas, on the Gila River. They call themselves Pipasje, but are called Maricopa by the Pimas. In the nineteenth century they moved up the Gila on account of wars with their kindred, the Yumas. See Hodge, Handbook, part i, 805-806. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, SJ. 195 same river, close to La Encarnacion and Casa Grande, there was the rancheria of San Andres, afterwards, at the suggestion of Father Adamo, giving other rancherias the names of the other holy apostles, this Rio Grande we named Rio de Ios Santos Apostoles. To this it may be added that all its inhabitants are fishermen, and have many nets and other tackle with which they fish all the year, sustaining themselves with the abundant fish and with their maize, beans, and calabashes, etc. These people so new, of very different dress, customs, and languages, all received us with the utmost friendship, affection, and pleasure on their part and ours, their chiefs coming out to meet us more than a league's jour ney, giving us afterward of their eatables, etc. We preached to them the word of God in the Pima lan guage, and, with an interpreter, in the language of the Cocomaricopas, which is that spoken by the Opas and the Yumas. It was well received, and they would have given us many little ones to baptize, but we accepted and baptized only a few sick persons. We informed our selves in regard to the rancherias and people farther to the north, northeast, and northwest, and of the very populous Rio Colorado near-by, which is even larger than the Rio Grande, and they told us that the Yumas, Cutganes, and Alchedomas 259 came next in order. We dispatched Christian messages and talks in all direc tions and occasionally some little gifts and gewgaws; and already here in Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores I have received very friendly replies, in which they call me to go to treat of their eternal salvation. These natives of San Pedro in the two days when we were with them gave us various presents of the unusual sorts which they have there. Among them were some 259 A branch of the Yumas. 196 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [VoL curious and beautiful blue shells, which, so far as I know, are found only on the opposite or western coast of California. Afterward it occurred to me that not very far distant there must be a passage by land to near-by California ; and shortly, by Divine grace, we shall try to find it out and see it with all exactness.260 Father Adam made while here a vocabulary of the Cocomari- copa language. On taking our leave, February 23, we left messages for them and for those of the sea, to the effect that if the ships or fathers of California should ar rive at those their coasts they should receive them with all love and without fear, for they were our brothers and men of very good heart. Leaving the natives very desirous that we should re turn, we took our course eastward up the Rio Grande,261 passing by various rancherias,262 which we gave the names of the other holy Apostles, San Matias del Tu- magoidad (because on this holy day we arrived there), San Mateo, San Simon, San Felipe y Santiago, San 260 Manje states that he was anxious to go to the Gulf of California, that he had come expressly for this purpose, but that the Indians begged them not to do so, and that the missionaries were afraid that such a step would offend the Cocomaricopas. Manje and the Indian interpreter, Francisco Pintor, rode to a hill and were shown the junction of the Gila and Colorado. The camp was evidently near Dome and above Blaisdell. At this point Manje records that the natives told here of the visit of a white woman whom he thought might be Mother Maria de Jesus de Agreda, said to have visited the Indians of New Mexico and Texas, in spirit, earlier in the century. The Indians told of the visit of Onate over ninety years before. 281 They started on the twenty-third. 262 According to Manje, none were seen for thirty leagues. San Matias Tutum was reached at that distance, San Mateo de Cuat at thirty-four leagues. Then followed San Tadeo de Vaqui, San Simon Tucsani, and two unnamed villages (San Felipe and Santiago?). On March I the Gila Bend was reached, and the river was left here. Twenty-four leagues east and three from the junction with the Rio Verde they reached a Pima village called San Bartolome; ten more leagues took them to San Andres de Coata, visited in 1697. After passing La Encarnacion, they left the river (on the fifth) and the Casa Grande. Passing the Algive (tank) made by the ancients, they went via San Xavier del Bac to Dolores. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 197 Bartolome, etc. After eighty leagues' journey along the Rio Grande we arrived at San Andres, La Encarna cion, and Casa Grande, having received in all parts all kindness and many of their provisions, with almost the same courtesy as if we had journeyed among Christians. In some places they gave us so much and so very good fish that we gave it as a ration to the men, just as beef is given where it is plentiful. Likewise, they guided us and accompanied us, and came many days' journey to meet us, with the utmost friendship, loyalty, and cour tesy; and although those of the west had always lived at great enmity and in very bloody wars with those of the east, toward us all were very friendly and most lov ing; and God willed also that we should with felicity establish peace between them, so that they ceased those conflicts, since I said to them that God our Lord, the best beloved Creator of heaven and earth and of men did not wish that peoples should persecute and kill each other so cruelly in that way; that only the devil, the common enemy of the human race, tried and sought to have men kill one another, in order that both the slain and the slayers should go to hell and to the eternal, never ending fire. They made some very friendly peace-agreements and general alliances, and they still endure, all because they wish to be peaceful Christians, and without wars, except those which might be neces sary against the enemies of the faith; for in such cases even though one should die fighting to the last extrem ity he is saved, and such blood can even serve as bap tism to one who might not be baptized with water. This side of San Felipe y Santiago del Oyadoibuise we saw the Rio Azul,263 with its pleasant cottonwood groves, which comes from near the Moquis. At San 263 Manje mentions Rio Verde but not Rio Azul. 198 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Andres I found the letter and the cross which many months before I had despatched to the Moquis, inviting them to our friendship and their reduction, and urging that they reconcile themselves with our Holy Mother Church, returning to our holy faith. Even some years before I had urged the same thing; but then as now we found the obstacle of the very difficult passage through the Apaches. Therefore, with new messages and new gifts, and with promises to the bearers that they should be escorted by armed men wherever there was fear of any danger from the Apaches, I again despatched the letter and the cross to the Moquis and to their principal justices, for some knew how to read and write. And, as I shall later set forth, in part the purpose was accom plished. Thanks to the infinite goodness of the Lord, so com pletely did we effect the desired proof that the natives of the Rio Grande, or Rio de Ios Apostoles, and their environs, did not roast and eat people, that the Sefior Lieutenant Juan Matheo Manje, in his careful and well written relation that he wrote of this entry, said that, because there was so much affability, love, and affection on the part of these new peoples, he was of the opinion that years before the venerable Mother Maria de Jesus de Agreda had come to domesticate and instruct them, as there is a tradition that she came from Spain mirac ulously to instruct some other nations, of New Mex ico, for the Reverend Fathers of San Francisco found them already somewhat instructed. Others have been of the opinion that the blessed blood of the venerable father Francisco Xavier Saeta is fertilizing and ripen ing these very extensive fields. Passing by San Fran cisco Xavier del Bac, and by San Cayetano, we arrived, thanks to the Lord, after a prosperous return trip, at one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 199 Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, on the fourteenth of March, having traveled in going and coming about three hundred and sixty leagues.264 In this entry we learned that on the third of March the Sobaipuris of Captain Humaric had dealt a blow to the Apaches of the Rio de Hila, killing thirty-six265 of them and taking captive eight little children, of whom they brought me five to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, where they were baptized. A little after ward came also the very friendly replies to the messages which in the above-mentioned entry we had sent to the numerous people of the Rio Colorado.266 264 San Xavier del Bac was reached March 7, and left on the ninth. That night in a storm Father Kino was taken ill, his limbs swelling badly. Next day, in spite of Continued storm, he insisted on traveling, but after going three leagues he was taken ill with vomiting and again they stopped. On the eleventh he was better, and they continued to Tumacacori. Bacoancos was reached on the twelfth, Cocospera on the thirteenth, and Dolores on the fourteenth. 265 Manje says that six Apaches were killed. 266 Manje says, at the end of his account of the journey, that it will be well now to investigate whether the rumored quicksilver mines are the gold and silves mines of the Sierra Azul, what white people are settled on the Gulf of California, whether Spaniards or strangers, and what white woman it was who had visited the Indians; to explore the "island" of California; and to ascertain the origin of the Aztecs. BOOK VII. VISITATION BY THE FATHER VISITOR ANTTONIO LEAL, AND NEW JOURNEYS OF HIS REVERENCE TO THE PIMERIA, TO THE NORTH, NORTHWEST, AND WEST CHAPTER I. FIRST PATERNAL LETTERS OF FATHER VISITOR ANTONIO LEAL WITH A VIEW TO ENCOURAGE THESE NEW CONVER SIONS OF THIS PIMERIA May and June, 1699. 1° May and June of 1699 the father visitor, Antonio Leal, who had just ceased to be visitor of the missions of Cinaloa, came to us at these missions of Sonora. When we were expecting mission ary fathers from Mexico for this Pimeria, it was writ ten to us that they could not come because the reports from this Pimeria had been very unfavorable and not at all uniform. Nevertheless, especially because the father visitor informed himself by word of mouth of his predecessor, God willed that things should become cleared up, and that their complete remedy should be discussed. His Reverence wrote me letters so paternal, and so tender, so zealous, and so highly charitable' to ward these poor children that they inspired and en couraged me to write this little book. Especially of most singular comfort to us was the letter which I re ceived at vespers of the eve of San Ygnacio267 in the Pueblo of Our Father San Ygnacio as I was return ing from a little journey to Tucubabia, Tubutama, and 267 The Feast of San Ignacio falls on July 31. EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 201 La Consepcion. I read it at the altar of our Father San Ygnacio (which is in the hall, because there is no church as yet) , for in it was the lighted candle, and as I received the letter in question after nightfall. When, afterwards, I gave those affectionate messages to the natives, they were most delighted, very much pleased, and very desirous of seeing his Reverence. September 22, 1699. On September 22 his Rever ence writes me the following : I took great comfort in the desires and the constancy of those children; and since they repeat their petitions, may God grant them and satisfy their wish to see me, which I share in equal or perhaps a greater degree. And I beg your Reverence that if any really believe, you will do me the favor to salute them in my name and commend me to them. And as from beyond the Yumas to the northwest and to the north, from the Rio Colorado, various new na tions and rancherias, as a result of the messages which I sent them in the preceding entries, called me with very friendly and tender insistence to treat of their con version, when I asked of his Reverence permission to go upon that expedition, he answered me that with much pleasure he would go personally with me on the said journey, because of the great desire which he had always had for the welfare of so many poor creatures. And when afterward I asked his Reverence to please advise me as to what I could provide for the entry in question, he wrote me these words : But of me or for me take no thought, your Reverence, nor may you take thought, because I can eat a piece of jerked beef, and it tastes very good to me and suffices me. What I really desire is that the journey may be accomplished, whereby the de sire of those poor people may. be fulfilled, and so I trust in our Lord, etc. 202 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. CHAPTER II. FIRST NEWS OF THE REDUCTION OF THE APACHES NEAREST THE RIO COLORADO AUGUST 6 AND 7, 1699. On the sixth and seventh of August of the year 1699, the captain of San Cayetano and the governor and twelve or thirteen other justices268 of the interior came to this pueblo of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, saying to me that Captain Humaric and the other Sobaipuris, of La Encarnacion and of San Andres, were sending to advise me that through the cross, letter, gifts, and messages which at the beginning of March I had despatched from San Andres to the Moquis, the Apaches nearest the Rio Colorado were won over to our friendship, for the messages, letter, and cross which I sent, the Apaches had received and applied to themselves, making peace with the rest, our friends ; and that the Opas, Cocomaricopas, and Pimas, were sending to call me to speak and treat of their con version, and were sending me four buckskins as a present. I imparted this good news to the father visitor, to the Sefior military commander, and to others. The father visitor on the twenty-ninth of August answered me as follows : Great comfort have I received from your Reverence's letter of the seventeenth instant, because of the pleasing news of the Apaches, which is the best which this province could have; and the people of New Mexico must receive it with general bell- ringing. Already it appears that the prophecy of Fray Juan de Jesus is being fulfilled, to the effect that the Apaches were going to be reduced and embrace our holy faith in very truth and were going to form a choice Christendom. And afterward his Reverence ends the letter with these very paternal words : I trust in God that our journey will be for His holy service, for I desire in the extreme to see those poor children, to whom I 268 I.e. Indian officials. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 203 beseech your Reverence to commend me, and I commend them to our Lord, who, I trust, will take away all the obstacles in the way of their healing. Thus far the father visitor, Antonio Leal. In re gard to the Apaches, almost the same was written by the father rector of Matape and others; and although the common enemy did not fail to oppose this also, since some would have it that these reports were far from the truth, on the first of October Captain Humaric and others from the Rio Grande came and confirmed them, as did time also, thanks to the infinite goodness of our eternal God and to the celestial favors of his most holy Mother and of the most glorious apostle of the Indies, San Francisco Xavier. CHAPTER III. JOURNEY OR MISSION OF THE FATHER VISITOR ANTONIO LEAL THROUGH THE PIMERIA TO THE SOBAIPURIS OF THE NORTH, AND TO THE NORTHWEST AND THE WEST COAST TWO HUN DRED AND FORTY LEAGUES IN GOING AND RETURN, FROM OCTOBER 24 TO NOVEMBER 28, 1699. IN THE COURSE OF IT TWENTY-THREE BAPTISMS ARE PERFORMED AND ABOUT SEVEN THOU SAND SOULS ARE SEEN AND COUNTED269 Father Visitor Anttonio Leal, with Father Francisco Gonzalbo,270 having arrived from the pueblo of Cu curpe at this pueblo of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores on the twenty-first of October,271 on the twenty-fourth, day of the most glorious archangel San Miguel Raphael, 269 A full account of this expedition is given by Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, cap. 7. This account by Kino, which is practically a diary, is the only other first-hand record available. It supplements Manje in many particulars. See volume ii, 184 for further information regarding Manje's diary. 270 Manje gives his name as Golzalvo, from San Joseph and La Merced> in Pimeria Baja (Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 87, 90). See "Index" for other references to Father Gonzalvo. 271 Manje joined them at Dolores next day. 204 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. we set out for Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios. Fifty272 pack animals went from this district, sixty-six others, for the most part mules, having been despatched a month before to San Xavier del Bac. October 25. The following day, the twenty-fifth, having said mass, we three fathers set out for Coco spora, where at midday Father Agustin de Campos overtook us. In the afternoon we passed on four leagues farther toward San Lazaro ; and at eight o'clock at night the Sefior lieutenant of this Pimeria, Juan Matheo Manje, overtook us,273 being sent by the Sefior military commander of this province of Sonora, Don Domingo Jironsa Petris de Crusat, to accompany us in this entry with two soldiers, Antonio Ortis Cortes and Diego Rodrigues. 26. On the twenty-sixth, after nine leagues' journey, we arrived at San Luys del Bacoancos, the Indians of Santa Maria having come to see the father visitor in San Lazaro. In San Luys, where we counted forty houses, as also in the following posts or rancherias of Guebabi and San Cayetano, they received us with all kindness, with crosses and arches erected in the roads, with earth-roofed adobe houses, which they have pre pared for the father whom they hope to receive; as also for the said father they have and care for a ranch with seven head of cattle, with two small droves of mares and eleven this year's colts, and with two hundred head of sheep and goats; also crops of wheat, maize, and beans. We killed one fat beef and two sheep for food. 27. On the twenty-seventh at noon we arrived at Guebavi where we counted ninety souls. There are many more in the rancheria of Los Reyes to the east- 272 Manje says 60. 273 Manje makes it appear that he set out from Dolores with Kino. The latter must be right in this detail. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 205 ward, about four leagues away. In the afternoon we passed on to San Cayetano. We slept in the earth- roofed adobe house, in which I said mass the day fol lowing. 28. On the twenty-eighth the governor of San Cay etano gave his little son to the father visitor to baptize, as also the governor of San Luys had given him his. Three other little ones they gave us, Father Gonzalvo and me, to baptize. In the afternoon we set out, to spend the night at a watering place of the river of this valley, six leagues distant. 29. On the twenty-ninth, after ten leagues' journey, we arrived, two hours past noon, at the great rancheria of San Xavier del Bac of the Sobaipuris. More than forty boys came forth to receive us with their crosses in their hands, and there were more than three hundred Indians drawn up in line, just as in the pueblos of the ancient Christians. Afterward we counted more than a thousand souls. There were an earth-roofed adobe house, cattle, sheep and goats, wheat and maize, and the sixty-six relay pack animals. We killed three beeves and two sheep. The fields and lands for sowing were so extensive and supplied with so many irrigation ditches running along the ground that the father visitor said they were sufficient for another city like Mexico. 30. On the thirtieth the governor of El Ootcam,274 to the west, named Tocodoy Onigam,275 came to see us, with ten other Indians. And being questioned, he told us by means of kernels of maize that he had in his rancheria two hundred and sixty-six souls.276 In the years preceding he had given me to baptize his little 274 Manje says he came on the twenty-ninth. 275 This may be the same as Anegam, the name of a village west of Bac. 276 Manje says 270. 206 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. daughter, who was named Maria. This day Father Gonzalvo baptized a little girl. Nov. i. On the first of November, after the three masses said by the three fathers, we passed on to San Agustin del Oyaut,277 four278 leagues' journey; and leav ing on the left the rancheria of San Cosme del Tucson, we passed by its splendid fields, similar to those of San Xavier del Bac. The natives received us with all kind ness, and gave me four sick persons to baptize. We counted two hundred men, who represent two hundred families. The plan had been that we should go on to the Rio Grande, the Rio Azul, and the Rio Colorado, to the Opas and the Cocomaricopas, etc., but, as two servants of the father visitor fell sick, and as the soldiers of Captain Christoval Martin Bernal, for whom his Reverence was waiting, did not come, a rest of two days was taken here.279 2. Meantime, on the second of November, the Sefior lieutenant and Antonio Ortis Cortes and I went on to Santa Catarina del Cuytoabagum,280 a journey of fif teen leagues. We found three hundred men, who rep resent three hundred families, and more than one thou sand persons, who received us with all kindness, giving us many kinds of their food. From here we despatched friendly messages to the nations of the Rio Grande, to the Cocomaricopas, and to the Yumas of the Rio Colo rado, saying that we did not pass on to see them because two servants of the father visitor had fallen sick.281 3. On the third we returned to San Agustin, and almost at midnight the father visitor and I received let- 277 Oiaur (Manje). 278 Six leagues' journey (Manje). 279 This reason for not going to the Rio Grande is not given by Manje. 280 Caytuabaga (Manje). 281 Manje says they went to San Clemente also. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 207 ters from Captain Christoval Martin, notifying us that he was going inland to the east with the Pimas of Cap tain Coro in pursuit of the hostile Jocomes. He asked of me, and I gave him for this purpose, ten head of cat tle at San Luys.282 CHAPTER IV. RETURN OF THE FATHER VISITOR ANTONIO LEAL FROM THE INTERIOR BY THE NORTHWESTERN AND THE WESTERN COASTS NOVEMBER 4. On the fourth we returned from San Agustin to San Xavier del Bac, where they gave us four sick little ones to baptize. Having despatched from San Xavier del Bac directly to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores the two sick servants of the father visitor, we, traveling westward on the fifth, sixth, and seventh, af ter twenty-eight leagues' journey, and having passed by various rancherias, all of very friendly and very docile people, arrived at the rancheria of San Seraphin del Actum.283 There came out to welcome us more than twenty justices who had assembled, and about twenty boys, who received us on their knees, with crosses in their hands, that they might give them to the father visitor; and afterward we were welcomed by more than four hundred men and many women drawn up in a very long line with their little ones already baptized, two years before. They comprised about twelve hun dred souls. In the afternoon we passed on to San 282 Several details here are omitted by Manje. He does not say that the writer was met at San Agustin. 283 The details for these days are given by Manje. The Indians asked for Father Golzalvo (Gonzalvo) as missionary, and Father Leal promised them that he should be sent to them. Leal expressed the opinion that the valley would support a city of thirty thousand inhabitants. (It has one with over three- fourths that population now.) On the fifth they went west ten leagues; on the sixth, six leagues to El Tups [Tupo], then three to El Cupo or El Humo. On the seventh, eight leagues to San Seraphin del Actum. 208 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Francisco del Adid,284 where we were received by two hundred men and about eight hundred souls, among them being many of the one hundred and two little ones whom they had given me here to baptize on the morn ing of the day of San Francisco, the fourth of October, two years before. All were much pleased to hear the word of God; and at night there was formed a circle of twenty-five governors, among them being the prin cipal one of the four Cocomaricopas who had come to see us, who, with the governor of Nuestra Sefior de Ios Dolores, spoke with fervor of their eternal salvation, and the father visitor heard that new language for the first time. And these Cocomaricopas with very rare courtesy and loyalty brought me a very fat, pretty horse, which we had left behind lost the year before. On the eighth, having left friendly messages and some little gifts for the people of the north, the Apach- eria, the Moquis, etc., we set out from San Francisco, and, turning somewhat to the south, after twelve leagues' journey we arrived at Nuestra Sefiora de la Mersed del Batqui, where we found more than eight hundred souls, who had assembled to receive us with the same kindness as those preceding. Because another servant, one of Father Gonzalvo's, fell ill, his Reverence and the father visitor were detained285 here. Consequent ly the Sefior lieutenant and I went on to San Raphael of the other Actum,286 and to San Marzelo del Sonoy- dag, a journey of twenty leagues, to inform ourselves better in regard to the land passage to California, to see if there were any sick, and to bring a beef from that ranch, which has fifty head of cattle, and is only twenty 284 Manje calls this San Francisco de Ati. 285 Father Leal went by carriage to Tubutama. 286 Lumholtz (New Trails in Mexico, chap, vi) gives an account of most interesting experiences in 1909 in some of the very villages here mentioned by Father Kino two hundred and ten years earlier. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 209 leagues from the good harbor of Santa Clara, on the Sea of California. And we made very careful inquiry in regard to the blue shells of the opposite coast, and to the passage by land to California.287 In the rancherias along this route we saw and counted more than one thousand souls. I baptized three sick persons, among them a Cocomaricopa, who gave the new information regarding the Cuculatos,288 a people of a distinct lan guage, who live beyond the Rio Colorado. We brought beef, and, as the fathers had set out from La Mersed, we overtook them in San Ambrosio del Busanic, where we killed two other beeves and two sheep of the large and small stock, which, with wheat, maize, and beans, and an earth-roofed adobe house, these more than three hundred natives tend for the father whom they hope to receive. On the way they brought me four little ones and a sick adult to baptize.289 On the fourteenth we arrived at El Tubutama, a ten leagues' journey. We found three hundred and thirty- two souls and noted that at the stroke of the bell by their temastidn the boys and girls under instruction come to say prayers morning and evening, as in Sonora. We found cattle and small stock, about one hundred head of the two kinds, wheat, maize, and beans, a house, and a little earth-roofed adobe church for the father whom they hope to receive; and there is almost the 287 Manje says nothing of this phase of the matter. 288 Mentioned in Venegas, Noticia de California, vol. i, 58 (1759), and as Cuculates by Taylor in Browne, Res. Pac. Slope, app. 54, 1869. 289 The details of the journey are given by Manje. On the eighth they went thirteen leagues to San Rafael ; on the ninth, nine to Baguiburisac, and sixteen to El Coat y Sibagoyda (San Bonifacio. See the journey of 1698) ; on the tenth, travelling all night, thirty-three leagues to Sonoita; on the eleventh, travelling day and night, fifty leagues to Busanic; on the thirteenth to Tubutama. Manje is one day ahead of Kino from here on to San Ignacio, where Manje says they remained two days. 210 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol same outfit twenty-two leagues farther on at La Con sepcion de Nuestra Sefiora del Caborca. On the fifteenth, we arrived at Santa Maria Magda lena; on the sixteenth at San Ygnacio, where Father Agustin de Campos welcomed us; on the seventeenth at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios; and on the eigh teenth at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. CHAPTER V. EXPEDITION OF CAPTAIN CORO'S PI MAS SOBAIPURIS AGAINST THE ENEMIES OF THIS PROVINCE, IN COMPANY WITH THE GARRISON; AND THE GOOD FOR TUNE WHICH THEY HAD At the same time that we made the above mentioned expedition somewhat further to the west, Captain Chris- toval Martin Bernal, who had asked of me and whom I had given ten beeves from the new ranch of San Luys, made an expedition to the Sobaipuris of the east and of the Rio de Quiburi, with the soldiers of the presidio; and with the same Sobaipuris of Captain Coro he made an expedition to the enemies of this province of Sonora who live even farther to the east; and on his return to his presidio of Coro de Guachi, on the twenty- eighth of November, 1699, he wrote me the following letter : For what I owe and the obligation which I am under to your Reverence I write these lines, informing you how our Lord was pleased to allow me to make an attack upon a little rancheria of enemies, and how in it our loving excellent Pimas showed great fidelity in their friendship to us ; for three of the enemy's braves and three women were killed, and we took twelve prisoners; wherefore, I give infinite thanks to the divine Majesty for our good fortune, and to your Reverence, since by means of your most Christian heart and great zeal so many souls are gained for heaven, and so many rebels against our holy faith are punished. May our Lord keep them in peace, that we all may have the rest one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 211 which we desire, and grant your Reverence the health which my affectionate love desires for you, at whose feet I offer mine. I received the ten beeves which I asked of your Reverence. Thus far Captain Christoval Martin Bernal. The Sefior military commander, on the sixth of December, concerning this particular wrote me the following: I thank your Reverence for the news of the victory of my arms and of my dear Pimas Sobaipuris ; for we can all give one another hearty congratulations for the good fortune and for the defeat which they inflicted upon the enemy. (And afterward his Lordship adds:) I beg that your Reverence will give thanks to Captain Coro and to the other natives on my behalf and on behalf of my soldiers, for Captain Christoval Martin tells me they did well.290 290 At this point Manje records an expedition made in 1700 which Kino omits here but alludes to later on. In December, 1699, Father Melchor Bar- tiromo requested General Jironza to send a squadron of soldiers to restrain the Seris, who were molesting Tuape, Cucurpe, and Magdalena, which he administered. Alferez J. B. de Escalante accordingly set out in January, 1700, with fifteen soldiers, going to the rancheria of Santa Magdalena de Tepocas, then to Nuestra Sefiora del Populo, where Father Gilg was sta tioned. Accompanied by Gilg, he then pursued the Seris to the Gulf, but they escaped to the islands. He now returned to Tuape and Santa Magda lena, then went to the Gulf by a different route and gathered one hundred and twenty Tepocas, whom he turned over to Father Bartiromo. Late in March Escalante returned to the coast, pursued the Seris to the islands, and took some of them to Father Bartiromo, returning to Cucurpe in April. Being called to San Ignacio by Father Campos, he made a foray northward in which he captured one hundred and twelve delinquent Indians whom he de livered to Father Campos. He then went south through Pimeria Baja to Be- len and Yaqui, recovering apostates. At the end of six months and after a journey of two hundred leagues, he returned to his presidio. These activities of Escalante are a good illustration of the cooperation usual between the sol diers and the missionaries in controlling the frontier Indians. Kino alludes to Escalante's expedition on page 234, post, and on pages 238-239, post, quotes a letter from Escalante giving added light on it. BOOK VIII. OF THE GREAT FRUIT, SPIRIT UAL AND TEMPORAL, WHICH AT SMALL COST TO HIS ROYAL MAJESTY (GOD PRE SERVE HIM) CAN BE GARNERED AMONG THE SURROUNDING NATIONS OF ALL THIS NORTH AMERICA CHAPTER I. OF THIS NORTH AMERICA, IN GENERAL ALMOST UNKNOWN Among the above-mentioned favors which our Lord . has granted us in these expeditions, or missions, conver sions, discoveries, reductions, conquests, spiritual and temporal, and baptisms, it can be inferred that one is the great, gpod, and abundant fruit which, in the ser vice of the two Majesties, can be secured, not only in the discovered parts, but also in all this very extensive northern district of all this North America, which is the greatest and best remaining portion of the world, because the discovery and conquest have just been ef fected, both on this mainland and on the very extensive, great and populous California near-by, that in all parts the very many souls may be saved and redeemed by the most precious blood of our Redeemer Jesus, and all at small cost to the royal treasury. For most of these lands are very rich and fertile, most of the Indians industrious, many of the lands mineral bearing, and most of them of a climate so good that it is very similar to the best of Europe, to that of Castilla, to that of Andalucia, to that of Italy, to that of France, to that of Germany ; because most of this North America is in the EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 213 same degrees of altitude of the north pole or geographi cal latitude as Europe itself, that is, in 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 4^, 47, 4&, 49, 5° degrees and upward; also because this North America is so extensive that it exceeds all kingdoms and empires and provinces of all Europe; and little by little, with good management, and if some conquests already made lend a hand to those which may be in progress, as the royal cedulas suggest, through these spiritual and temporal conquests to the west and to the northwest it will be possible to cross to the opposite coast of the Sea of California and to its cape of Mendosino, and to the harbor of Monte Rey; and there will be possible a port of call for the ship of China or the Philippine galleon, and at the same time some commerce for these provinces of Sonora, Nueva Biscaya, and Nueva Galizia, etc. And to the north and northeast it will be possible to penetrate to Gran Quibira and to Gran Teguayo, etc., and to the Strait of Anian ; 291 and perhaps also in that direction it will be possible to open a way and shorter water route to Spain. CHAPTER II. OF THE NEIGHBORING GREAT CALIFORNIA In the very extensive neighboring California, which is about six hundred leagues long from southeast to northwest, and about one hundred leagues wide from east to west, I lived almost two years continuously, at 291 All through the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries there was wide spread belief in the existence of a northern passage, called the Strait of Anian, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, and all the leading nations made efforts to find it. This was one of the permanent aims of Spanish ex ploration on the western coast of America. See Bancroft, History of the Northwest Coast, for an excellent chapter on "The Northern Mystery and Imaginary Geography, 1500-1595." 214 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [VoL the time of the enterprise and conquest by the admiral Don Ysidro de Atondo y Antillon,292 in the years 83, 84, and 85, having with me Father Pedro Matias Goni and Father Juan Baptista Copart, and holding the of fice of rector of the mission, although unworthy; and with the commission of cosmographer of his Majesty (God guard him), I made a map, which was printed. And in latitude twenty-six degrees we crossed to the opposite coast from the Real de San Bruno, with more than eighty horses, a journey of about sixty leagues, finding in all parts many people, friendly, docile and affable. This was all at the very great and Catholic expense of the royal treasury, which, with the construc tion of the three ships, Capitana, Almiranta, and Patache, and with the seamen and soldiers, provisions, munitions, etc., exceeded half a million.293 In the Real de San Bruno, in San Ysidro and San Dionisio, and in their vicinity, we left the people, more than four thousand souls, very submissive, very docile, very friendly, somewhat instructed in the principal mysteries of our holy faith, and with great desire to receive holy baptism, although, because of lack of au thority we baptized only thirteen sick or dying, of whom three recovered, inasmuch as in the month of May this enterprise was abandoned or suspended, for reasons which our Lord knoweth, and because after ward from Matanchel we set out in the South Sea in November, 1685, by order of his Excellency, with two of the ships of California to meet and warn and rescue the China galleon from the hostile pirates, for the 292 For other references to Kino's expedition to California with Atondo, see the "Index" under "Atondo." 293 As a matter of fact, the cost was only a quarter of a million, as is fre quently stated on official authority. Kino evidently had not access to official sources of information on this point. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 215 Pichilingues294 with many pirogues were lying in wait for it, to rob it, in the port of Navidad.205 The holy zeal of Father Juan Maria Salvatierra was so moved to compassion that, as has already been stated, on hearing, in his visit to this Pimeria,296 of the ripeness of so great a harvest of souls, he made a report to Mexico as early as the year 1691, in order that the con quest and conversion of the said Californias should be continued; and although his purpose was not immedi ately accomplished, his Reverence did accomplish it afterward. CHAPTER III. FATHER JUAN MARIA SALVATIERRA, AVAILING HIMSELF OF THE ALMS OF THE FAITHFUL, CROSSES OVER FROM HYA QUI TO THE CONVERSION OF CALIFORNIA IN 1697 297 By his untiring and holy zeal, Father Juan Maria Salvatierra succeeded with such felicity and efficacy, thanks to the sovereign Lord, to most holy Mary and to the most glorious apostle of the Indies, San Francis- 294 The name given the Dutch pirates on the West Coast. 295 Navidad is a port on the coast of Mexico in latitude 190 13' and twenty miles northwest of Manzanillo harbor. In the sixteenth century it was one of the most important western harbors, and was the port for the Manila galleon before that of Acapulco was opened. From Kino's own letters, just obtained from Seville, we now know that on May 30, 1685, he was at Torin, Sinaloa; on October 10 he was at the Jesuit College of Guadalajara; on November 15 he was on board the Al- miranta at Matanchel ready to go to meet the Manila galleon; on February 15, 1686, he was at the Casa Profesa, Mexico (A.G.I. 67-3-28). 296 See ante, pages 117-121, for Salvatierra's visit to Pimeria Alta and his journey into Arizona with Kino. 297 The details of Salvatierra's expedition to California are given in Father Picolo's report, volume ii, 46-67. Other original authorities are Salvatierra's litters printed in Doc. Hist. Mex., segunda serie, vol. i, 103-157. Some newly discovered manuscript sources are listed in the "Bibliography.'' For secondary accounts see Bancroft, North Mexican States, vol. i, and Vene gas, Noticia. 216 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. co Xavier, in crossing over to California, that on the tenth of October, 1697, he accomplished his glorious purposes, embarking in Hyaqui with the necessary men and funds by means of the alms which his Rever ence obtained from the faithful and from various pious persons, especially Don Juan Cavallero.298 I was also to go on this enterprise with his Rev erence, but the superiors here, the royal justice, and the citizens of this province, through reports which they sent to Mexico, prevented me.299 Afterward Father Francisco Picolo crossed over, and the most glorious fruit which their Reverences are producing merits oth er separate treatises by a better pen, for mine is very clumsy ; for now, with the other conquerors, they have three large ships of their own, and other small ones; this year of 1699 they have already found very rich lands in latitude twenty-six degrees, and are beginning three excellent missions, one called Nuestra Sefiora de Loreto de Concho, on the east coast, another called San Francisco Xavier del Nipe300 on the sierra and inland; (and another, Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Do lores) 301 they intend to found on the opposite coast. From the lofty sierra which we named La Giganta they see both seas, that of California to the east, and the South Sea to the west. Everything inspires very great hopes that where there had been so many and 298 The beginnings of the Pious Fund are set forth by Engelhardt, vol. i, 73-75. Don Alonso Davalos, Conde de Miravalles, and Don Matheo Fer nandez de la Cruz, Marques de Buena Vista, each promised $1,000. Others followed their example, and $15,000 were soon raised. Don Pedro Gil de la Sierpe, treasurer of Acapulco, donated a launch. The Cofradia de N.S. de Ios Dolores, in Mexico, gave $10,000, and Rev. Juan Cavallero y Cosio, a wealthy priest of Queretaro, gave $20,000. 299 In 1698 Kino was granted a license to spend half his time in California. See volume ii, 157-158. 300 A mis-copy for Vigg£. 301 In the margin of the original. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 217 almost insuperable obstacles, the infinite goodness of our Lord with His celestial favors is going to establish a very flourishing Christendom and bring about the eternal salvation of very many souls. CHAPTER IV. VARIOUS VOYAGES AND EXPEDITIONS WHICH HAVE BEEN MADE TO CALIFORNIA SINCE THE BEGINNING OF THE CON QUEST OF NEW SPAIN 302 During the eighteen years that I have lived in New Spain I have tried to acquire all the information pos sible in regard to those who have gone to California, and in what years, and I have obtained the following: The first who went to discover California and to enter the port of Nuestra Sefiora de la Paz was the Marques del Valle, Don Fernando Cortes, who, hav ing conquered Mexico in the year 1522, eleven years afterward, in 1533, with twelve303 ships undertook and accomplished this discovery of California.304 In the year 1535 the new and first viceroy of New 302 Excellent chapters on the subject are found in Bancroft, North Mexican States and Texas, vol. i, chaps, iii, iv, vi, vii, and viii. On the whole, the summary by Kino is remarkably good, as compared with other accounts written at so early a date. A valuable summary of the various attempts to subdue California was made by the Council of the Indies on July 9, 1701, in a document bearing the title: Consejo de Indias a 9 de Jullio de 1701. Representa a V. Mgd. lo que ha passado en la conquista poblazion y reduzion de las Californias desde su principio; El Estado que oy tiene, y las provi- denzias que combendra se den para acalorar a Ios Religiosos de la Compania que se han encargado de esta empresa y la tienen muy adelantada. Eleven Ms. pages (A.G.I. Aud. de Guadalajara, 67-1-37). The document notes a pearl fishing permit before that of Vizcaino, namely, one given in 1585, by the Viceroy Moya de Contreras, to Fernando de Santo Ortiz. 303 Apparently a slip for two -dos. 304 The reference is to the expedition of Becerra and Grijalva in the Con ception and the San Lazaro, from Tehuantepec, in 1533. The crew of the Conception murdered Becerra, and, under command of Fortun Jimenez, dis covered California. Jimenez, In turn, was murdered by his crew (Bancroft, North Mexican States and Texas, 45-47, and works there cited). 218 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Spain, Don Antonio de Mendoza, sent to continue this enterprise General Francisco de Alarcon with other ships with high decks, which were all lost, and the soldiers and mariners barely escaped with their lives, but reached the port of Navidad. Hereupon explorers were discouraged for many years.306 In the year 1597 Sebastian Biscaino went at his own expense to the Calif ornias with five religious of San Francisco, but shortly afterward returned to Acapul co.306 In the year 1602, in the time of Feliphe III, the Conde de Monte Rey being viceroy, he307 went at the expense of the royal treasury with three ships and with three religious of Nuestra Sefiora del Carmen and traced all the west coast.308 In the year 1606 there came a royal cedula to the Sefior viceroy, Conde de Montes Claros, ordering that the above named Sebastian Biscaino should go to settle in the port of Monte Rey. In the year 1615, Captain Yturbide,309 with the li cense which he had secured from Felipe III, and after the Pichilingues had taken away one of his two ships, went to California with the other. He went up to thirty degrees of latitude, and the Sefior viceroy, the Marques de Guadalcazar, sent him to advise the ship 805 Kino has apparently confused the expedition of Cortes in 1535 with that of Alarcon in 1540. Cortes led a colony to California but it soon failed. Alarcon's expedition of 1540 was a part of the Coronado expedition to New Mexico. 306 The Vizcaino expedition started in 1596 and returned in 1597. 307 Vizcaino. 308 For diaries of this expedition, see Bolton, Spanish Exploration in the Southwest, 1542-1706, 42-133. The three Carmelites were friars Andres de la Asumpcion, Antonio de la Ascension, and Tomas de Aquino. 309Iturbe. See Chapman, The Founding of Spanish California, 9-10; Bancroft, North Mexican States and Texas, vol. i, 163-164. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 219 from China that the Pichilingues, Dutch pirates, were lying in wait for him. In the year 1632, Captain Francisco de Ortega,310 with a ship which he had built at his own expense, went from Masatlan on the first of March to the bays of the Californias which they call Bahia de San Ber nabe and Bahia de la Paz ; and in the month of Septem ber returned to Cinaloa.311 In the following year, 1633, this Captain Francisco de Ortega went a second time with two clerics named Don Diego de las Navas and Don Juan de Zufiiga, who in the harbor of Nuestra Sefiora de la Paz solemnized one hundred and six baptisms. He went up to thirty- two degrees latitude, and returned to New Spain ; and although he went three times to these Californias, their conquest was not effected. A few years afterward, about 1636, Captain Car- boneli, who had been a pilot of Captain Ortega, went to the Californias. He went up to thirty-six degrees latitude. Also, the new governor of Cinaloa, Luys Sestin de Cafias, went in a little ship. He took with him Father Jasinto Cortes, of the Company of Jesus, who on his return wrote to the father provincial, Luys de Bonifas, of the docility and meekness of the natives of the Californias, offering himself as missionary there.312 In the years 1643 and 1644 Phelipe IV sent the Ad miral Don Pedro Portel de Casanate to the Califor nias, at the same time charging the Sefior Conde de 310 For the Ortega voyages see Bancroft, North Mexican States, vol. i, 170-176. 311 The dates given by Bancroft (North Mexican States, vol. i, 171-172) vary slightly from those given here. 312 For Carbonel, see Bancroft, North Mexican States, vol. i, 175-176. The expedition of Cestin de Canas was in 1642. Ibid., 181. 220 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Salvatierra with their conquest and conversion; and said Admiral, having built two ships, set out to meet the China ship at the Island of Zeniza.313 In going and returning he merely entered in passing the Bay of San Bernabe; and having arrived at the mouth of the Rio de Santiago, whence he sent a post to his Excel lency, the villains burnt his two ships.314 In the year 1647 the same Admiral built two other ships in the Villa de Cinaloa; and in the years 1648 and 1649 he went in them a second time to the Californias, taking with him Father Jasinto Cortes and Father Andres Baes. He discovered many harbors and coves, and in all parts many natives. Later he was sent to warn the China ship, and soon afterward entered upon the governorship of Chile.315 In the year 1664 Admiral Don Bernardo Bernal de Pifiadero went to California at his Majesty's expense316 with two ships which he had built in the Valle de Van- deras; but, although some pearls were obtained, be cause of the discord and the deaths which occurred the purpose of the conquest was not accomplished, neither then nor when three years afterward317 came the order for him to go again to California, as he did in the year 1667, with two other ships, which he had built in the Puerto de Chacala with money which he had borrowed. In the year 1668 Captain Francisco de Lusenilla 313 An island north of Cerros Island, near the outer coast of Lower Cali fornia. See Bolton, Spanish Exploration in the Southwest, 1542-1706, Index. 314 They were burned in the harbor of the Santiago or Tololotlan, the deed being charged to the Portuguese competitor of Casanate. Bancroft, ibid., 182-183. 315 Kino gives data here that Bancroft did not have. See ibid., 183. The accounts by Venegas and Alegre are evidently taken directly from this passage. 316 Bancroft does not give the date. Ibid., 184. 317 The text reads "eight years afterward" but is corrected in the margin to read "three years afterward." See Bancroft, North Mexican States, vol. i, 183-184. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 221 went to the Californias with two ships which he had built at his own expense, and with two religious of San Francisco he reached the Cape of San Lucas and the port of Nuestra Sefiora de la Pas. Finally, he re turned to the port of San Francisco Xavier de Ios Guaimas, near the mouth of the Rio de Hyaqui.318 In the years 1681, 1682, 1683, 1684, and 1685, by or der of his Majesty Don Carlos II (God guard him), in the time of the viceroys Don Fray Payo and the Marques de la Laguna, Admiral Don Ysidro de Aton do y Antillon built in Cinaloa to go to the Californias (at a cost of more than half a million319 to the royal treasury) three ships, the Capitana, Almiranta, and Balandra; and on the twenty-fifth of March of the year i684,319a we went and reached the Puerto de la Paz, and higher up, in latitude twenty-six degrees, the Real de San Bruno. By land we crossed over to the opposite coast, discovering the Rio de Santo Thom as, and in all parts many natives, docile and peaceable. Three fathers of the Company of Jesus went also, and in the eighteen months that we were in said California we left many of the natives instructed. In the year 1685 we were sent to meet the China ship, and we convoyed it in safety to the port of Acapulco.320 In Mexico his Excellency granted us an appropriation of thirty thousand dollars; but because at the time when it was about to be paid requests came from Spain for five hundred thousand dollars, the conquest was sus pended. Recently we have had a glimpse of it on three occasions by way of the Pimeria; in the years 1693 and 1694, m latitude thirty degrees, from the very shores 318 See Bancroft, North Mexican States, vol. i, 184-185. 319 The cost was a quarter of a million in fact. See ante, page 214. 3191 A mistake for 1683. 320 For accounts of Atondo's attempt, see ante, pages 35-49, 213-214. 222 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. of the arm of the sea which divides the land of California from that of this Pimeria, which is no more than eighteen leagues wide.321 Captain Francisco de Ytamarra went to Califor nia in the month of October, 1694, and found that the natives of the Island of San Bruno, of San Dionisio, and of San Agustin asked with insistence for the fathers of the Company of Jesus.322 On the tenth of October, 1697, Father Juan Maria Salvatierra went to California with alms from the faithful, and I, who was appointed as his companion, re mained for the present in this Pimeria by order of the Sefior viceroy and of the father provincial, Father Francisco Maria Picolo going in my place. CHAPTER V. OTHER RECENT INFORMATION IN RE GARD TO THE PRESENT STATE OF CALIFORNIA, DERIVED FROM THE LETTERS WHICH FATHER JUAN MARIA SALVATIERRA WRITES TO THE FATHER VISITOR ANTTONIO LEAL, ON SEPTEMBER 2, AND TO ME ON OCTOBER 17, 1699 Since the time when I was in California, at the port of Nuestra Sefiora de la Paz and at the Real de San Bruno, I have been aided and succored with all liberal ity and charity by Father Gaspar Thomas, rector of the College of Matape, and the father visitor, Juan Bau tista de Anzieta, visitor of these missions of Cinaloa and Sonora, and many other fathers. The long letter of the Father Visitor Juan Maria de Salvatierra to the Father Visitor Antonio Leal says in substance the fol lowing: The father provincial Luis de Bonifas prophesied that the 321 See ante, pages 123-126. 322 Venegas and Alegre, on whom Bancroft depends for data on Itamarra, follow Kino. See Bancroft, North Mexican States, vol. i, 194. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 223 missions of California would be colonies of those of Nueva Bis caya and that one would aid another. As Father Andres Peres 82S relates, with the coming of the China ship to the op posite coast and with the development of water transportation, in time not a few things which are very dear in the province will become cheaper. Let these missions of California, so small and new, be aided for two or three years, and afterward they will sustain themselves. That province of Sonora has been the mother of all the mis sions for the last thirty years, since in Sonora (and in the visita tion of the Pimeria in the year 1691) were born the strong de sires whence has resulted the birth of this mission of California. In it, thanks be to the Lord, is the pueblo of Loreto Concho, and in it are fifty-four persons from the other side, from New Spain, soldiers, women, and salaried servants. On the sea I have thirty-two mariners in three vessels, all salaried. On land the Indians are at peace and in subjection. We have good land, and the opposite coast has been reconnoitered and explored. And if we are not deserted, sometime we shall make an expedi tion by land and by sea to the opposite shore for the discovery of a good harbor (in the vicinity and latitude of this post of Loreto), suitable to shelter the China ship and succor any that comes into it in great distress, for mere lack of a landing- place, a long standing want, and motive enough for our Com pany, mother of the sick and disabled, to take in hand any enter prise. We two fathers here have four new pueblos, the adults being catechumens, and many little ones and sick adults be ing Christians; and they subject themselves to receive punish ment without mutinies or revolts. Here every kind of animal multiplies; and already there are here eight species of animals from the other side, now acclimated to Loreto. With two years only of encouragement it appears to me this will be altogether assured. I have no lack of means for the payment of the soldiers, ser vants, and sailors, nor for merchandise. They receive their pay whenever they wish, indeed, they have received five thousand pesos by appropriation in Mexico in royal securities this year; 323 The reference is to Perez de Ribas, Historia de Ios Trivmphos de Nvestra Santa Fee. 224 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA and the goods are cheap here. The only lack I have suffered is of provisions, and, because of this shortage, some worries and danger of mutiny among the people. But the most holy Virgin, conqueror and colonizer, has been present with us in all and has brought us succor not on one occasion, but on many, when least we expected it, as is the case now with the return of the bark, by which I have received twenty-four loads, twenty-three of flour and one of pinole, a fine present, all of which comes to me from the province of Sonora. The natives not yet conquered tremble before our arms, directed by the arm of Mary. And we hope that in the first expedition to San Xavier del Vigge, which is in the centre of the sierra, those of the opposite coast will come to render obedience, to facilitate matters, and that they them selves may be the ones to call us to go to their land and pre vent so far as possible the outbreak of war or confusion. Thus far Father Juan Maria Salvatierra to Father Visitor Antonio Leal; and to me, on October 17, his Reverence writes the following: Father Francisco Maria Picolo is at present in the pueblo of San Xavier Biaontom, within the sierra, a very pleasant land. Eusebio, your Reverence's son, Andresillo's nephew, is well, and salutes your Reverence, to whom because of haste I write no more. Loreto Concho. October 17, 1699. PART II OF THE CELESTIAL FAVORS OF Jesus, Most Holy Mary, and the Most Glorious Apostle of the Indies, San Francisco Xavier, experienced in the New Conversions of this North Amer ica, or New Philippines, in the Years 1699, 1700, 1 70 1, 1702; and the New Discovery of the Passage by Mainland to California in Thirty-two Degrees of Latitude, by which it is found to be not an Island, but a Peninsula, with very Fertile Lands, with Very Large, Rich, and Populous Rivers, with Many Gentle, Docile, and Friendly New Na tions. BOOK I. OF THE MEASURES, DISPOSI TIONS, AND EXPEDITIONS WHICH IN THE YEAR 1699 ARE MADE IN ORDER TO DISCOVER THE LAND ROUTE TO CALIFORNIA CHAPTER I. LETTERS OF THE PRINCIPAL SUPE RIORS, AND THE VERY CATHOLIC ROYAL C6DULA, WHICH INSPIRE THE WRIT ING OF THIS SECOND PART OF THE CELESTIAL FAVORS Having written, by order of our father general, Thyrso Gonzales, the account of the celestial favors, which I have set forth in the First Part, and having sent it from the Real de San Juan to Mexico by Bach elor Don Joseph Moreno that it might be taken to Rome, as it was taken by the father procurators Ber nardo Rolandegui and Nicolas de Vera,321 his Rever ence answered me in a letter of December 24, 1701, which I received December 26, 1702, that he had re ceived it and read it with such pleasure that most af fectionately he charged me to write this Second Part. At the same time the father provincial, Francisco de Arteaga, also wrote me a very paternal holy letter, with the superscription of the rector326 of these missions of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, asking me for informa tion in regard to them, to give to our father general. And soon afterward, by the hand of the father visitor, 824 See post, page 375. 320 I.e., forwarded by the rector. 228 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Antonio Leal, his Reverence sent me the printed report on the state of California which Father Francisco Maria Picolo drew up and printed,326 with the in serted very Catholic and most Christian royal cedula of the King our Lord Felipe V (God preserve him many most happy years) dated July 17, 1701, which so greatly favors the new conquests and new conversions, not only of California, but also of Cinaloa and Sonora and of this Nueva Biscaya where we live, enjoining their encouragement and advancement, at the same time with that of the new conversions of California, and containing these most pious words to his Royal Audiencia of Guadalaxara: I ask and charge you to inform me very minutely in regard to the region in which the uncivilized Indians are found, and the present state of the conversions in Cinaloa, and Sonora, and Nueva Biscaya, that in view of these reports and your opinion I may proceed to adopt the measures which I may deem expedi ent,327 etc. The royal cedula as well as the letters of the prin cipal superiors will be put in their place at the time when they were received, that is, at the close of 1702, as most singular celestial favors which, in the midst of such contradictions, we have experienced in these new conversions. All these things impel me with great force to write this second part, as my continued and multitudinous occupations may permit. 326 Printed in this work, volume ii, 46-67. 327 A transcript of this cedula, from the Archivo General de Indias (A.G.I. 67-3-28) is in the Bancroft Library. Kino does not quote exactly here, but paraphrases the paragraph. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 229 CHAPTER II. IN VARIOUS EXPEDITIONS REPORTS OF THE PASSAGE BY LAND TO CALIFORNIA ARE OBTAINED328 When, ten years ago, setting out from Nuestra -Sefiora de Ios Dolores for the west, and passing through the lands of El Soba, I arrived, after sixty leagues' journey, on three different occasions with different per sons at the coast of the Sea of California, we saw plain ly that that arm of the sea kept getting narrower, for in this latitude of thirty-three degrees we already saw on the other side more than twenty-five leagues of Cali fornia land in a stretch so distinctly that we estimated the distance across or width of that arm of the sea to be no more than fifteen or eighteen or twenty leagues.329 Therefrom arose the desire to ascertain the width higher up; and in the year 1698, at thirty-five degrees latitude, and at one hundred and five leagues by a northwest course from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, on the very high hill, or ancient volcano, of Santa Clara, I descried most plainly both with a telescope and without a telescope the junction of these lands of New Spain with those of California, the head of this Sea of California,330 and the land passage which was there in thirty-five degrees latitude. At that time, however, I did not recognize it as such, and I persuaded myself that farther on and more to the west the Sea of California must extend to a higher latitude and com municate with the North Sea or Strait of Anian, and must leave or make California an island. And it was with me as with the brethren of Joseph, who ate with him and made merry with him, he giving them the 328 This chapter summarizes the genesis of Kino's idea of the peninsu- larity of California. 329 See ante, pages 123-126. 330 See ante, pages 184-189. 230 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. wheat and provisions which they required, and talked with him but knew him not, until his time.331 A year afterward, at the suggestion of the father vis itor, Oracio Police, I penetrated one hundred and sev enty leagues to the northwest, and went beyond thirty- five degrees north latitude, with Father Adamo Gilg and Captain Juan Mateo Manje, and almost reached the confluence of the Rio Grande de Hila and the Colo rado, where the natives gave us some blue shells.332 And still it did not occur to us that by that way there was a land-passage to California, or to the head of its sea ; and not until we were on the road returning to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores did it occur to me that those blue shells must be from the opposite coast of California and the South Sea, and that by the route by which they had come thence, from there to here, we could pass from here thither, and to California. And from that time forward I ceased work on the bark, twelve varas long and four wide, which we were building at La Con cepcion del Cabotca near the Sea of California, and here at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, intending to carry it afterward, entire, to the sea. CHAPTER III. DIARY OF THE EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH IN ORDER TO DISCOVER A ROAD AND ROUTE BY LAND TO CALIFORNIA, AS MANY PERSONS DESIRE, WRITE ABOUT, AND REQUEST 333 MARCH 29, 1700. The expedition of which I write in this and the three following chapters I made from the twenty-first of April to the sixth of May, 1700; and 331 Genesis, chaps. 42-45. 332 See ante, pages 193-199. 333 So far as I am aware, there is no other first hand account of the expe dition which gives the story of the founding of Mission San Xavier del Bac. Ortega wrote his brief account from this, and others have followed him. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 231 the father visitor, Antonio Leal, saw, read, and signed the account, with these words: "I have seen this ac count and the letters which in it are cited, and the origi nals are as they are quoted." Being in the pueblo of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Re medios on the twentieth of March, a governor from near the Rio Grande, and other Pima natives, brought me a holy cross, with a string of twenty blue shells, which were sent me by the principal governor of the Coco maricopas, who lives in the great rancheria of Dacoy- dag, with a very friendly response to some messages which I had sent him, inviting him to receive our holy faith, in imitation of many others. This rancheria is on the Rio Colorado, and is one hundred and seventy leagues to the northwest of this pueblo of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. And again reflecting that those blue shells were from the opposite coast, as I had seen them there when I was in California, I informed sev eral fathers of them, sending them afterward, together with the holy cross, to the Father Visitor Antonio Leal ; for his predecessors, Father Visitor Manuel Gonzales, Father Visitor Juan Maria de Salvatierra, and Father Visitor Oracio Police, had very strongly urged the exploration of those lands, seas, and rivers of the north and of the northwest. In the middle of April his Reverence replied to me as follows : "The cross and shells came with your Rev erence's letter to Arispe, and I greatly rejoice at seeing them, because of the distance whence they sent them, which is an indication of friendliness." And Father Marcos Antonio Kappus, rector of the College of Matape, on the tenth of April wrote me the following: "God bless me! And what great news and how rare is that which your Reverence imparts to me, and which the 232 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. people of the north and the northwest bring you, to the effect that it is possible to pass overland to California, news truly the greatest, if it is verified, but which, al though desired so long, it has never been possible to confirm. May our Lord grant that the news may be verified, since for Father Juan Maria de Salvatierra it will be most gratifying, etc." Also, the reverend father rector of this mission of San Francisco Xavier, Adamo Gilg, wrote me that it was expedient to employ means to verify these things, etc. ; and the Sefior military commander, Don Domingo Jyronza Petris de Cruzatt, informed me that he had the same very anxious zeal for those discoveries; while at this very same time came to me the desired license from our father general, Tyrso Gonzales, to oc cupy myself six months of the year in this Pimeria and six in California. For this reason and in order at the same time to cast a glance at the spiritual and temporal condition of the three newly begun missions of the north and the northwest, I determined to go inland for a few days to find out and obtain all possible informa tion in regard to these matters. April 21, 1700. And, setting out on the twenty- first of April from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, with three justices of this pueblo, seven servants, and fifty- three sumpters, some being mules and others horses, we arrived at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios. 22. On the twenty-second, having in the morning given orders as to what the natives were to do in the building of the new church, in the afternoon we reached Cocospora, where we were received by one hundred and fifty natives, who had just returned to settle this pueblo, and had just rebuilt and roofed a hall and a lodge for one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 233 the father's house, with orders soon to roof the little church also, for three years before, on the twenty-fifth of February, 1697, tr)e hostile Hojomes and Janos had sacked and burned this pueblo, although soon after ward, on the thirtieth of March, near Quiburi Captain Coro with his Pima people routed and destroyed them, killing more than two hundred of them, as is related in the First Part.334 23. On the twenty-third, three infants having been given us to baptize, we set out for San Lazaro, where we took our siesta, and where they gave us a little girl to baptize, and on the way to San Luys they gave us two others, one little girl, and one adult, a sick woman; and another, a little boy, on our arrival at San Luys, where the five justices of Guebavi came to meet us, with those of San Luys. We killed one beef of the one hun dred and fifty which they were tending there, with a drove of mares, and with one hundred and seventeen head of sheep and goats, with a good field of wheat, maize, and beans which they had, and with an earth- roofed adobe house, all for the father whom, with the other neighboring rancherias, or incipient pueblos, they hoped to receive. 24. On the twenty-fourth we set out for Guebavi and San Cayetano. In Guebavi, where we took a siesta, there were about two hundred souls; in Los Reyes de Sonoydag, five leagues farther eastward, Captain Coro had gathered with all his people, who numbered more than five hundred souls. Thirteen days before, at Easter, here at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, he had been instructed and baptized, naming himself Antonio Leal. In all places there were many more people, and more houses than when we entered here six months be- 334 This was in 1698, as has been made clear, ante, page 176, footnote 211. 234 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol fore with Father Visitor Antonio Leal and the Sefior lieutenant of this Pimeria, Juan Mateo Manje.335 Here at Guebavi there were also eighty-four head of sheep and goats, a good field of wheat, maize and beans ready for harvest, and an earth-roofed adobe house for the father whom they hoped to receive. In the afternoon we arrived at San Cayetano. 25. On the twenty-fifth we set out for San Xavier del Bac, of the Sobaypuris, about twenty leagues', jour ney, arriving at nightfall, and being welcomed with all kindness by many natives of this great rancheria. We gave them here, as in other places, the paternal greet ings which the father visitor sent to all, and they were very grateful for them; also the word of God was spoken to them, and was well received. CHAPTER IV. AT SAN FRANCISCO XAVIER DEL BAAC OF THE SOBAYPORIS I CALLED THE PRINCIPAL GOV ERNORS AND CAPTAINS FROM MORE THAN FORTY LEAGUES AROUND TO FIND OUT WHETHER THE BLUE SHELLS CAME FROM ANY OTHER REGION THAN THE OPPO SITE COAST OF CALIFORNIA APRIL 26, 1700. Having arrived at this great ranch eria of San Xavier del Baac of these Sobaiporis of the west, which are those of the Rio de Santa Maria (the Sobaypuris of the Rio de San Joseph living thirty leagues farther to the east) I heard the news which also I had heard on the road two or three days before, that some soldiers had gone into the Pimeria of Soba and of the west, and finding myself with so many Indians in this great valley, who were close to three thousand, and also in view of the many prayers of the natives that I should stay with them, I determined not to go farther. 335 See ante, pages 203-210. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 235 And from this great valley of San Xavier, by way of the Rio Grande westward as far as the Cocomaricopas and Yumas, and even to the Rio Colorado, as I desired, I tried to take and did take measures to find out whether the blue shells came from any other region than the op posite coast of California. To that end I despatched various messengers in all directions, some to the east to call Captain Humaric; others to the north to call those of Santa Catalina, and those of La Encarnacion and of San Andres, of the Rio Grande, with their jus tices, governors, and captains; and especially others to the west and northwest to call various Pima, Opa, and Cocomaricopa governors from near the Rio Colorado, to learn with all possible exactness in regard to the blue shells and the passage by land to California. During the seven days that we were here, while most of those whom I sent with the invitations were on the way, we catechized the people and taught them the Christian doctrine every day, morning and afternoon. We killed six beeves of the three hundred which they were tend ing for me here, with forty head of sheep and goats, and a small drove of mares. They had also a good field of wheat which was beginning to head ; and during the following days they planted for the church a large field of maize, which they had previously cleared. 27. On the twenty-seventh they gave me five little ones to baptize. 28. On the twenty-eighth we began the foundations of a very large and capacious church336 and house of San Xavier del Baac, all the many people working with much pleasure and zeal, some in digging for the foun dations, others in hauling many and very good stones of tezontle from a little hill which was about a quarter 336 This paragraph should set at rest forever the perennial conjectures regarding the date of the founding of the celebrated mission of San Xavier del Bac. 236 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. of a league away.337 For the mortar for these founda tions it was not necessary to haul water, because by means of the irrigation ditches we very easily conducted the water where we wished. And that house, with its great court and garden near by, will be able to have throughout the year all the water it may need, running to any place or work-room one may please, and one of the greatest and best fields in all Nueva Biscaya. 29. On the twenty-ninth we continued laying the foundations of the church and of the house. Today and yesterday Captain Humaric and his son, named Oracio Police, arrived from the Sobaiporis of the east; the other and elder son, named Francisco Xavier, had re mained behind to guard their country, which is on the Apache frontier. Many other justices also came, and among them an alcalde to whom the soldiers in the last expedition, which they made in November, 1699, had given the staff of office. 30. On the thirtieth, at sunrise, various letters from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores were brought me by a courier of this Pimeria, who, it appeared, must have made the sixty leagues which intervenes in a day and a half and the two nights. After mass I went down to the rancheria of San Cosme, a three leagues' journey, and to that of San Agustin, two leagues farther, to see whether there were any sick or little ones to baptize. At San Cosme they gave me six children to baptize, and one adult, a sick woman ; and at San Agustin I bap tized three more little ones. In the afternoon we re turned to San Xavier del Baac, and at nightfall various justices arrived from the northwest and from Santa Catalina and from the Rio and Casa Grande, among 337 Apparently the hill to the east of the mission on which is placed the grotto of Lourdes. Tezontle is a porous stone much used for building in Mexico. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 237 them being the captain and governor of La Encarna cion, thirty-five leagues away. Immediately, and also at night, we had long talks, in the first place in regard to our holy faith, and in regard to the peace, and qui etude, and love, and happiness of Christians, and they promised, as we requested of them, to carry these good news and teachings to other rancherias and nations much farther on, to the Cocomaricopas, Yumas, etc. At the same time I made further and further inquiries as to whence came the blue shells, and all asserted that there were none in this nearest Sea of California, but that they came from other lands more remote. We discussed also what means there might be where by to penetrate to the Moquis of New Mexico, and we found that by going straight north the entry would be very difficult, since these Pimas were on very unfriend ly terms with the Apaches who live between, although the distance and the journey was probably not more than sixty or seventy leagues, for this valley of San Xavier del Baac is in thirty-two and a half degrees of north latitude, and the Moquis and Zuiiis in thirty-six degrees. May 1, 1700. On the first of May, in the afternoon and at nightfall, many justices, captains, and governors arrived from the west, from San Francisco del Addi, and from San Serafin, some coming forty and fifty leagues. We talked with them a great part of the night, as we had done the night before, in regard to the eternal salvation of all those nations of the west and the northwest, at the same time continuing various inquiries in regard to the blue shells which were brought from the northwest and from the Yumas and Cutganes, which admittedly came from the opposite coast of California and from the sea which is ten or twelve days' journey 238 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. farther than this other Sea of California, on which there are shells of pearl and white, and many others, but none of those blue ones 33S which they gave us among the Yumas and sent me with the holy cross to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios. CHAPTER V. LETTERS WHICH REACH ME FROM THE SOLDIERS WHO MEANTIME HAD COME INTO THE PIMERIA, FROM CUCURPE TO SAN YGNACIO AND TO TUBUTAMA, ETC. This first day of May there also reached me, from the southwest, letters from the squadron of soldiers who had come to Tubutama and Saric, and whose com mander, Alferez Juan Bautista Escalante, wrote me the following : My Father Eusebio Francisco Kino, I can not refrain from writing these lines to inform your Reverence that, having entered this Pimeria, I have come to two rancherias which I had never seen before, namely, that of El Saric, and this one higher up, called El Busanic [and Tucubavia].339 I assure your Rev erence I have infinitely rejoiced and also been impressed to see so many people as are here together, for, as they are obedient and docile they are better than Christian pueblos. But it is a great pity that these poor creatures lack a father minister to lead and guide them to the bosom of our holy faith. In order to report this truth to my general, that he may cooperate in this very holy work, I ordered all the people assembled, and I found and counted four hundred and thirty-seven souls, a source of much pleasure to all. These are in this rancheria of Busanic alone; in the one which I have seen lower down there are also many people. I am about to start outward, and therefore I am not going further into the interior. Now I pray the divine Majesty to grant your Reverence the health which my great affection de sires for you, and which your great zeal and your great charity deserves, for the protection of this heathendom. From this 338 Here Kino draws on his experience in California between 1683 and 1685. 339 Added on the margin of the original Ms. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 239 rancheria of El Busanic, April 26, 1 700. I kiss your Reverence's hand. Your faithful servant, Juan Bautista Escalante. P.S. I report to your Reverence also that in this rancheria I killed a bull for them 3*° from the stock which your Reverence has here, and I beg your Reverence to approve it. Thus far the commander of the soldiers. Juan Casaos wrote almost the same. And as all this Pimeria, seven teen thousand souls, are being reduced, well may it be seen how great a need there is for workers. CHAPTER VI. MY RETURN TO NUESTRA SESORA DE LOS DOLORES, AND MY DESIRE AND ATTEMPT TO LIVE AND ESTABLISH A MISSION AT SAN FRANCISCO XAVIER DEL BAAC, IN ORDER TO BE NEARER TO SO MANY NEW NATIONS May 2. On May 2, having solemnized three other baptisms and two marriages in facie Ecclesia,341 and bidding goodbye to those captains and governors, we set out for Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. All the chil dren gave me many messages for the father visitor, for the other fathers, the Sefior military commander, and all of the Spaniards; and the captain of San Xavier del Baac gave me his son, who was probably about twelve years old, to come and he did come with me the sixty leagues' journey to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores to be taught the prayers and the Christian doctrine and to assist at mass. 3. On the third, in San Cayetano, as I was going at sunrise to say mass, I received a letter from Father Agustin de Campos, in which his Reverence summoned me to San Ygnacio to help save from death a poor de linquent whom the soldiers had taken prisoner with the intent and determination to beat him to death the fol- 340 For the soldiers. 341 "Before the church." 240 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. lowing day, May 4. I replied that I would go imme diately after mass. I also wrote to Alf erez Juan Bautista Escalante, thanking him for the letter which I had re ceived two days before at San Xavier del Baac. Trav elling that day more than twenty-five leagues, I arrived almost at midnight at San Joseph de Hymeres, and the next day very early, in time to say mass, at San Ygnacio, and we succeeded in rescuing the prisoner from death. 5-6. On the fifth I arrived with two soldiers at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios, and on the sixth at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, where, in answer to a letter which I had written from San Francisco Xavier del Baac to the father visitor, Antonio Leal, offering myself and even expressing my desire and pleading to be the missionary at San Xavier del Baac and asking that a successor be given me at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, I received from his Reverence the following very fine letter: I thank your Reverence sincerely in the name of our Lord for the work which you have undertaken in His holy service for the welfare of those poor souls, for visiting them, for the good you have done in the confessions, etc., and for which you will have your reward laid up in heaven. Let me say, my father, that, in regard to what your Reverence writes about the found ing of San Xavier del Baac, what has been said has been said, and that your Reverence may look upon it as your mission, be cause it appears to me very expedient for the progress in the future; for, your Reverence being so far this way at Ios Dolores, it is not so easy to see and to go frequently to the people of the Rio Grande. And so, when your Reverence may think best and may please, it shall be arranged, and your Reverence may go thither, as we agreed when we discussed it there.342 Thus far the father visitor, Antonio Leal. And in fact, within a few days, here at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios 342 The reference is to the journey of 1699 by Leal and Kino. It is shown elsewhere that Kino did not go to Bac, but that Father Gonzalvo went in his stead. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 241 Dolores I ordered rounded up the fourteen hundred- odd cattle which were here and told the overseer that, dividing them into two equal parts, he should take, as he did take, one part to San Francisco Xavier del Baac, and they made for him the necessary corrals, etc. But never did a father come to succeed me in Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, nor could I go permanently to San Xavier del Baac. When I had communicated the news of this expedi tion to various persons, the father rector of the College of Matape, Marcos Antonio Kappus, on the fifteenth day of May wrote me the following: I thank your Reverence for your most delightful letter, and also for the sending of the blue shells ; and I shall welcome most heartily the announcement of those discoveries. I am very strongly of the opinion that this land which we are in is main land and joins that of California. May our Lord grant that there be a road as royal as we think and desire, for thereby the labor as well as the care of California will be lessened. Afterward, on the third of September, when I was arranging to make an expedition longer than I had theretofore made, his Reverence wrote me these words : If your Reverence accomplishes the entry by land into Cali fornia we shall celebrate with great applause so happy a journey, whereby the world will be enlightened as to whether it is an island or a peninsula, which to this day is unknown. Quod bonum, felix, faustum fortunatumque sit, cedatque ad Dei ter optimi maximi gloriam.3*3 The father rector of Oposura, Manuel Gonzales, on the twenty-eighth of May wrote me the following: I greatly desire that your Reverence may finally make this most desired expedition by land into the Californias. If you accomplish this we must erect to you a rich and famous statue, 343 "May it be good, happy, joyful, and fortunate, and may it redound to the glory of God, thrice holy and mighty." 242 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. and if it is short there will be two statues. May God give your Reverence health and strength for this and many other equally good things besides. Thus far the father rector of Oposura. I answered his Reverence that one of the two statues should be of Jesus of Nazareth, to whom his Reverence was so de voted that he had built and adorned for Him in Opo sura the best chapel there is in all these lands ; and the other of Our Lady of Sorrows. CHAPTER VII. EXPEDITION OF ONE HUNDRED AND SEVENTY LEAGUES TO THE NORTH AND NORTH WEST IN SEARCH OF THE LAND ROUTE TO CALIFOR NIA; AND THE DISCOVERY OF THE VERY LARGE, POPULOUS, AND FERTILE RIO COLORADO (WHICH IS THE TRUE RIO DEL NORTE), AND OF THE NEW NATIONS344 September and October, 1700. This chapter and the six following are taken from the diary of the expe dition which we made in the months of September and October, 1700. In this chapter I shall tell of my ar rival at Rio Grande and among the Cocomaricopa na tion, a journey of more than one hundred leagues, and in the others the rest. I went toward the north and re turned by the west, travelling in going and returning more than three hundred and eighty leagues, from the twenty-fourth of September to the twenty-ninth of Oc tober, 1700, and in the meantime I solemnized forty- two-baptisms of infants and sick persons. September 24. I set out from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores with ten servants of the district and with sixty pack-animals, many of them mules. On this day, 344 The value of Kino's work at this point is illustrated by Bancroft's re mark concerning this journey: "The diaries are not extant, and such details as we have relate mainly to California geography, having little interest for our present purpose" (Arizona and New Mexico, 359). True then, Ban croft's statement no longer holds. Manje, not being with the expedition, does not give a diary of it. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 243 the twenty-fourth, we arrived early at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios, after a journey of seven leagues. That afternoon we assisted in the building of the new house, and I left them orders and instructions for the new lodge which in my absence they were to finish building and roofing. 25. On the twenty-fifth we set out for the ranch of San Simon y San Judas del Siboda, where there were about a thousand cattle and four droves of mares for the new conversions which were being founded; and having passed by the rancheria of Babasaqui, we ar rived after a journey of thirteen leagues and killed a fat beef, which had more than four arrobas of suet and tallow. 26. On the twenty-sixth, after a journey of fifteen leagues, we arrived at San Ambrosio del Busanic y del Tucubabia, the captain of this rancheria or incipient pueblo coming four leagues to meet us. Here they were tending for me seventy cattle, as many head of sheep and goats, and five droves of mares, besides wheat, maize, and beans, together with their medium- sized church for the father whom they hoped to receive. 27. On the twenty-seventh, having solemnized after mass nine baptisms, seven of little ones and two of the sick adults, and having sent to advise the people of La Consepcion del Cabotca that within twelve or fifteen [days] they should come to meet us at the rancheria of San Marcelo del Sonoydag, of the coast of the Sea of California, we set out for the watering place of Santa Eulalia and arrived, after a journey of twelve leagues, about an hour after nightfall, because we had been de tained in a rancheria of more than three hundred In dians. Their governor had come as far as San Am brosio del Busanic, and, having spoken to them the Word of God, they made an agreement with us to the 244 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Voh effect that if there should be a missionary father all would assemble to be baptized at San Ambrosio. 28. On the twenty-eighth we set out from the good watering place of Santa Eulalia in company with the fiscal mayor of a rancheria which is two leagues be yond. We arrived at this rancheria, where they had prepared for us a very great heap of tunas, besides other provisions. As the muleteers had dropped along that road some pieces of dried meat which they carried, the Indians of this rancheria who came behind, having found them, were so courteous and loyal that they brought them to us, and in view of this loyalty I di vided among them the meat and other little gifts. We travelled today up to nightfall sixteen leagues, through level lands which we had never travelled over or seen before. 29. On the twenty-ninth, four leagues after having set out from the place, we met with more than forty In dians, comprising the principal persons of this vicinity, among them being the captain of San Rafael, the cap tain of El Comae, and other governors, who had come ten, twenty, and thirty leagues, and who received us with crosses which they carried in their hands and which they gave us. Immediately they sent to various places to bring us many provisions. After travelling six leagues farther we arrived at the water-hole of Nuestra Sefiora de la Merced del Batqui, where more than two hundred souls had come together. There were various talks on doctrine, given by myself and my teachers345 of doctrine, especially at nightfall, when we taught them, in the Pima language, the method of baptism for dying persons and other cases of necessity which may and sometimes do occur, when there is no priest. Here they gave us two infants to baptize. B*s I.e. Indian interpreters and teachers. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 245 30. On the thirtieth of September, having de spatched half of the servants with the greater part of the horses to go to await us ten or twelve days in the ranch and rancheria of San Marzelo del Sonoydag, to the westward, we set out with the best horses and mules toward the north for El Comae and the Rio Grande. Having passed by four other lesser rancherias, at night fall and after twenty leagues of very level road we ar rived at a great rancheria which we named San Gero- nimo, because it was the day of this saint. They re ceived us with crosses and arches erected, with a little house, and with provisions prepared, two hundred and eighty Indians (for we counted them) being drawn up in line, as in the Christian pueblos. An hour after nightfall one hundred and fifty other Indians of another rancheria came to see us and to extend to us a welcome ; because it was night neither the women nor the chil dren had come. Upon inquiry we learned that in this vicinity, into which we had never before entered, there were more than a thousand persons, who had never seen a father or any Spaniard. To all we spoke the Word of God, which was well received. OCTOBER i, 1700. On October 1 they gave us seven infants and three sick adults to baptize; and if we had stayed a day, as they requested, they would have given us more than one hundred infants to baptize. Here a new governor, a fiscal mayor, and other justices were appointed.346 This governor, the captain of El Comae, and the governor of San Francisco, went on with us to the Rio Grande, accompanying us and guiding us with all courtesy. At a league's distance there came out to meet us an Indian with four little children, one sick, that I might baptize them, and I baptized the sick child 346 Kino does not mention any military or secular officer with him. In case there was none, Kino must have acted for the King in appointing officers. 246 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [VoL for him. They gave us a large quantity of maize and calabashes, but we accepted only a little for that day. After a journey of six leagues we arrived at a very good watering-place, and after twelve more at another, among inaccessible rocks, which the pack-animals could not reach to drink, although the guides brought us enough water for ourselves. 2. On the second, after a journey of ten leagues, we arrived at the Rio Grande and at its rancheria of El Tutto, where we found more than two hundred persons. More than one hundred and fifty other Indians, from among the principal ones, came to see us from farther up and farther down ; and some came to see us from the [Colorado] river, because they had been informed that at this time I was to pass through this region. All were very affable, docile, and friendly people, the Cocomari copas as well as those of the Rio Colorado; for al though they are of a different language, there are al ways among them many Pimas and others who speak the Pima language very well. They brought us many of their eatables, and we spoke the Word of God both to the Pimas and, through an interpreter, to the Coco maricopas of this place and from the Rio Colorado, all of whom were rejoiced to hear it. CHAPTER VIII. WE DESCEND THE RIO GRANDE TO THE WEST, AND AFTER A JOURNEY OF FIFTY LEAGUES REACH THE YUMA NATION, DISCOVER FOUR NEW NATIONS, AND SIGHT THE CALIFORNIAS 347 3. On October 3, day of Nuestra Sefiora del Ro- sario, we set out for the west accompanied by many of the people who had come to see us. There was also the 347 It is not easy to identify all the villages named in this journey down stream with those named in the journey up stream a year earlier. See pages 193-199. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 247 governor of El Tutto, who knew very well both the Pima and the Cocomaricopa languages, and the alcalde of San Felipe y Santiago del Oyadaybuise, who from the east and up the river had brought me the notice which the captain of La Encarnacion had sent me to the effect that his people had dealt a blow to the Apaches. After a journey of six leagues over very good road we arrived at the rancheria called Guoydag, of more than two hundred persons, many of whom were from the Rio Colorado. During today's march the boys kept throwing great quantities of grass to the mules and horses, delighted that they ate it and did not eat boys, as they had been made to believe was the case the year before, when we entered in February, being then very much afraid of us and fleeing from us, but now having lost that fear entirely. In the afternoon, after going seven leagues more, we reached the rancheria of San Mateo del Batki,348 where they received us with divers of their dishes and with fish. 4. On the fourth they gave us an infant to baptize. We set out for San Matias del Tutumagoydag,349 and, after a journey of thirteen leagues, arrived an hour be fore sunset, having passed by three rancherias in which there must have been about seven hundred persons, in cluding many families from the Rio Colorado, all of whom showed us great kindness. In San Matias they received us with all friendliness. We gave some pres ents to the guides and interpreters, who went no further with us, because thereafter we would be entering the Yuma nation, with whom they were on unfriendly terms, because of some murders which had taken place 348 This seems to be the San Tadeo de Vaqui visited February 26, 1699. See Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 79. 349 This is the San Matias Tutum mentioned in Manje's diary of 1699 as the first village above San Pedro. 248 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. during the preceding months. But when we told them that in future they should come in peace, they accepted our counsels and requested us that among the Yumas also we should become mediators of very firm peace- agreements, as we did. 5. On the fifth, having talked the night before till almost midnight about the Word of God, and having charged them to carry it on to the Rio Colorado, and they having given us an infant to baptize, we set out for the Yumas, always to the west and down the Rio Grande (or Rio de Ios Santos Apostoles) ; and having traveled about fifteen leagues over good but uninhab ited road, we arrived at a good place which we named La Sienega de Ios Patos, or Laguna de Ios Ansares, for there were great numbers of ducks and geese. We saw various rancherias which had been deserted during the preceding months. 6. On the sixth, setting out from La Cienega de Ios Patos, after twelve leagues of very level road we met the first Yumas, of San Pedro and of San Pablo. We had penetrated to this point when they gave us the first blue shells in February of the year before. They re ceived us very affectionately, even giving the dog which was with us water and pinole in a little basket, with all kindness, as if he were a person, wondering that he was so tame and faithful, a thing never before seen by them. In this respect they were like the Californians when we went to see them the first time fifteen years before. In three other respects we afterward found, during these days, these natives and their country are like the Californians: first, in the dress of the men and women; second, in that the men cut their hair in one way and the boys in another; third, in that here there are various trees native to California, such as the incense tree and the tree bearing the fruit which they called medesse. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 249 In the afternoon we set out toward the north, now with Yuma guides. Here the river runs about eight leagues to the north and afterward turns again to the west. On the way they gave us great quantities of fish, both raw and cooked ; for, although they had their little fields of maize, beans, calabashes, and watermelons, the beans and maize were not yet ripe. We spent the night at a very good stopping-place, which we called Camp of Las Sandias, for there were watermelons in a very rich sandy beach at the foot of a hill, from the top of which California is plainly visible; and this day was the day of San Bruno, patron of California. 7. On the seventh, setting out down stream, after going four leagues we halted near a rancheria, which, however, was on the other side of the river ; and while I despatched some friendly messages to the rancherias round about, with the governor, the alcalde, and my major-domo of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, and the four best pack-mules that we had, I ascended a hill to the westward, where we thought we should be able to see the Sea of California; but looking and sighting toward the south, the west, and the southwest, both with a long range telescope and without, we saw more than thirty leagues of level country, without any sea, and the junction of the Rio Colorado with this Rio Grande (or Rio de Hila, or Rio de Ios Apostoles), and their many groves and plains. We afterwards learned that in those lands and their vicinity lived four new nations, of friendly and industrious Indians, the Quiquima, Bagi- opa, Hoabonomas, and Cutganas. Returning to our stopping-place we ate, adding some sweetmeats for joy that now, thank the Lord, we had seen the lands per taining to California, without any sea between and sep arating those lands from it. Because our Pima guides, the captain and the governor of El Comae, the son of 2SO MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. the captain of San Raphael, and the captain of Actum, named Miguel, were becoming weary, and because the time for collecting the alms of cattle which the fathers of these missions of Sonora were giving for California were pressing upon me, I determined to return to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. CHAPTER IX. HAVING SEEN THAT THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA DID NOT EXTEND TO THIRTY-FIVE DEGREES, WHEN WE SET OUT ON THE RETURN TO NUESTRA SE5JORA DE LOS DOLORES THE MANY NATIVES FROM FARTHER ALONG CALL US AND CAUSE US TO RETURN, AND WE GO ON TO THE LARGE RIO COLORADO When, this same day, October 7, about four in the afternoon, we were setting out from the stopping-place to spend the night at the Camp of Las Sandias, I was overtaken by the governor of these Yumas, to whom we had given the staff of office the year before, and who came from the junction of the rivers, saying to me that those natives were begging that I should go to see them. The relay was already setting out with my baggage and the vestments and paraphernalia for saying mass, and I let them go, remaining to speak very leisurely with this governor, who knew very well both the Pima and the Yuma languages, and having informed myself thor oughly that afternoon and part of the night in regard to the gulf of California, the surrounding new nations, and especially the large population of the great-volumed Rio Colorado near-by, it seemed to me a matter of con science not to go to see those numerous natives. 8. On the eighth I arose very early and overtook my servants, and after saying mass at the camp of Las Sandias at dawn, and turning back to go to see these natives of the junction of the rivers, after a journey of one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 251 two leagues I met more than forty of them, who had come to overtake me, travelling all night, fearing that I might go without seeing them. They rejoiced great ly that I was now going to see them. As most of them were on the other side of this Rio Grande, I told them to go and notify them to cross to this side. But as they said that the people were numerous and all were asking that I should cross over there, they sought and found me a ford where this Rio Grande divides into three branches; and, crossing it, after eight leagues of very good road I arrived at the first Yumas of the very large volumed Rio Colorado, who came forth two leagues to receive us with many of their viands. Here were many of those who the previous year, 1699, had come out to see us at the post or rancheria of San Pedro, so named because of having said there the first mass which was said in this new nation, on the day of the Chair of Saint Peter, the twenty-second of February of the past year, when I entered with Father Adamo Gilg and Captain Juan Mateo Manje. The natives at once very lovingly asked us about his Reverence and his Grace, why they had not returned, etc., and we told them that they were in good health, and that perhaps some other time they would come here again. On arriving at the great rancheria of the Rio Colo rado, more than a thousand persons, assembled together, welcomed us ; soon more than two hundred others came, and the following day more than three hundred, who came from the other side of this very large volumed Rio Colorado (which is the true and real Rio del Norte of the ancients) swimming across it. We made them many talks about our holy faith, which were very well received, and they thanked us for them with very ten- 252 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. der and loving words and talks, both in the Pima lan guage and in the Yuma or Cocomaricopa, which are the same. These talks, ours and theirs, lasted almost the whole afternoon and afterward till midnight, with very great pleasure to all. They begged of me to stay with them, if only one or two days, saying that many people were coming from up the river where the Al- chedomas live, and from down the river where the Quiquimas, Bagiopas, and Hoabonomas live. But I dared not linger, lest I fail in coming to collect the cattle for California, as I had been charged, and as the branding time was near at hand. 9. On the ninth, after mass, they gave me two sick adults to baptize. One was called Dionisio, because it was the day of this glorious, holy martyr; likewise, be cause the mass of this saint had been said here, the rancheria and very good post, close to the junction of the rivers, was called San Dionisio. Most of the Indians who this morning came to see us, travelling nearly all the night, and swimming across the river, were of very lofty stature, and the principal one of them was of gigantic size and the largest In dian that we had ever seen. To him and two others we gave staffs of the office of justice. On taking our leave we comforted them, saying that we would try to return, as they so importuned and desired. This very large volumed, populous, and fertile Colo rado River, which without exception is the largest in all New Spain, is that which the ancient cosmographers by antonomasia called Rio del Norte. It very prob ably comes from Gran Quivira; and it is certain that by the fertile and pleasant lands of this great river one can penetrate to the Moquis, since it flows ten leagues west of those pueblos, and since the rancheria of San Dionisio, as I have found by measuring the height of one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 253 the sun with the astrolabe, is in thirty-five and one-half degrees of [north] latitude. Ascending this river, which comes almost uniformly from the northeast, an other degree and a half, which in this latitude makes a journey of thirty-six leagues, one reaches thirty-six de grees,350 which is the latitude of the Moquis, missions pertaining to New Mexico; and there is probably no danger in this region that the Apaches would impede the entry. CHAPTER X. WE TAKE LEAVE OF THE MANY PEOPLE OF THE RIO COLORADO, OR RIO DEL NORTE, AND RETURN BY THE OTHER ROUTE, THROUGH SAN MARZELO This day, October 9, having set out from San Di onisio and the junction of the two rivers, we arrived in the afternoon at the camp of Las Sandias, where our relay was, and then passed on two leagues farther to a rancheria, where they gave us a great quantity of fish. We ascended another and higher hill, whence at sunset we plainly descried a large stretch of country in Cali fornia and saw that the two rivers, below the conflu ence, ran united about ten leagues to the west, and then, turning southward, about twenty leagues farther on emptied into the head of the Sea of California. 10. On the tenth, leaving the Rio Grande and com ing by the route by which we had entered in the month of February of the past year, we arrived in time to take our siesta at the tank of La Tinaja; and travelling in the afternoon about twelve leagues farther, we arrived an hour after nightfall at the watering-place which also the past year we had called El Agua Escondida, be cause it was among the rocks.351 350 There is an obvious discrepancy here. 351 Some writers have confused Kino's La Tinaja with modern Tinajas 254 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. n. On the eleventh, after dispatching most of the servants with the relay, that they might go on to take their siesta and wait for me wherever they should come across good pasturage for the pack-animals, I turned toward the west and ascended another hill, but I saw nothing more than the continuation of these lands with those of California, and the sands of the California sea. Overtaking the servants, and travelling today twelve leagues, we arrived before sunset at the tank of La Luna, for we had given it this name the year before be cause we had arrived there at night by moonlight. And because this watering-place is among some rocks so high that the pack-animals cannot ascend to drink water, we determined to eat a morsel of supper there and then travel, and we did travel, three hours more by night, in order to reach the watering-place of Carrizal with more ease the following day. 12. On the twelfth, arising more than two hours be fore dawn, and setting out from the stopping-place at the rising of the morning star, after thirteen leagues of very good roads we arrived at ten o'clock at the good Atlas. Eldredge (Beginnings of San Francisco, vol. i, 60) speaks of Kino's Aguaje de la Luna and Agua Escondida as one and the same, though the diaries give them as twelve leagues apart. Agua Escondida was evidently modern Tinajas Altas. An excellent description of Tinajas Altas is given in Report of the Boundary Commission (Washington, 1898), part ii, 25. Aguaje de la Luna may have been Tinajas del Tule, a well-known tank on the Sonoita trail, although judged by distances given in the diaries it is too far west. (See post, pages 311-320). La Tinaja del Cerro de la Cabeza Prieta as located by Lumholtz is out of the question, although Aguaje de la Luna might be the tank of that name as shown on the Boundary Commission map. Eldredge's assumption that Anza's Agua Escondida was Kino's Aguaje de la Luna seems untenable, the former probably being in the Sierra Pinta. The error may have arisen from placing Los Pozos de en Medio west of Gila Range, when all the diaries of the Anza expedition distinctly say that they were at the last camp before entering the pass (Tinajas Altas Pass). Richman (op. tit., map) places Anza's Agua Escondida east of La Purificacion, which is quite contrary to the explicit words of the diaries. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 255 watering-place of El Carrizal, of the Arroyo de San Marcelo del Sonoydag. I said mass, we breakfasted, and after eating dinner we took a very good siesta; and after eight leagues' journey farther we arrived at eight o'clock at night at the rancheria and ranch of San Mar zelo, having been given good refreshments by the peo ple of another rancheria which was on the way and to whom we spoke the word of God. They gave us three sick adults to baptize, who were called Ygnacio, Fran cisco Xavier, and Francisco de Borja. The fiscal and principal personage of this rancheria came with us to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, almost one hundred leagues' journey. The people of San Marcelo del Sonoydag, their gov ernor, and many others, came out more than three leagues to meet us, with arches and crosses erected and with a house or arbor prepared, with plentiful supplies and meat, and wheat, maize, beans, and calabashes, for there are crops of all these for the father whom they are asking for and hoping to receive. We found here our people and servants with the relay which on the twentieth of the past month we had sent from La Con cepcion del Cabotca, who had come fifty leagues to meet us at the summons which we had sent them from San Ambrosio del Busanic. This post and rancheria of San Marcelo is the best there is on this coast. It has fertile land, with irriga tion ditches for good crops, water which runs all the year, good pasture for cattle, and everything necessary for a good settlement, for it has very near here more than a thousand souls, and many more in its environs, while there is a notable lack of water on the rest of this coast, which extends fifty leagues south to La Concep cion del Cabotca, fifty leagues north to the Rio Grande, 256 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. fifty leagues east to the valley of San Xavier del Baac, and fifty or more leagues west to the confines of the Quiquimas and the mouth of the Rio Colorado. 13. On the thirteenth we rested at San Marzelo. We received a holy cross which the captain of La En carnacion of the Rio Grande and Casa Grande sent me, with very kind messages, from a distance of more than seventy leagues. We catechized the people, and they gave us four sick adults and four infants to baptize. We counted the cattle, finding about fifty head, and killed one fat beef. The overseer of this ranch and the alcalde and the fiscal of this rancheria of San Marcelo made plans to go and did go with us to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. CHAPTER XI. SETTING OUT FROM SAN MARZELO, AFTER A JOURNEY OF FIFTY LEAGUES WE AR RIVE AT NUESTRA SE5JORA DE LA CONCEPCION DEL CABOTCA, AND AFTER FIFTY MORE AT NUESTRA SE5JORA DE LOS DOLORES OCTOBER 14, 1700. On the fourteenth of October, setting out for San Luys Bertrando de Bacapa, after a journey of six leagues there came out to meet us many natives with many of their viands and many very good pitajayas, which on this coast are abundant and last until December. After six leagues' journey farther we arrived at San Luys Bertrando, where we were wel comed by about one hundred and fifty persons, with many of their viands and pitajayas, and we spoke the Word of God to them all. 15. Having invited these people to come to the pueblos, the most arable pieces of land, and the rivers, to live, we set out for San Eduardo del Baipia, and after a journey of twenty leagues we arrived at night fall ; there received us, with crosses placed in the roads, one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 257 with a house or arbor and prepared viands, more than twelve hundred persons, who had assembled from the neighborhood, with many justices who had come from various places, among them the captain of La Concep cion del Cabotca and other governors and the foreman of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, who had come to meet us with some relay pack-horses and with bread and other refreshments. 16. On the sixteenth, after travelling sixteen leagues, we arrived at La Concepcion del Cabotca, where we were received with all kindness and with an abundance of provisions, for there were wheat, maize, large and small stock, about one hundred head of each sort, an earth-roofed adobe house, and a little church which the venerable Father Francisco Xavier Saeta had built. Of the many who came forth more than a league to meet us and receive us, one greeted us with these words : "Blessed and exalted be the most holy sacrament of the altar and the immaculate conception of most holy Mary," which among new people was a source of great pleasure and of some wonder to us. 17. On the seventeenth, having spoken to them the Word of God, and baptized infants which they gave us, including a son of the captain of this nation, we set out for El Tubutama which, after more than twenty leagues we reached that night by moonlight, having passed by the rancherias of San Diego del Pitquin and San Antonio del Uquitoa, where also there were wheat and maize for the father, and through that of El Ad- dibuto. In El Tubutama there were more than two hundred persons, a little church and a house of adobe and earth, and at the ringing of their bell they recited the prayers and the Christian doctrine, as in the pueblos of Sonora. They had here about fifty head of cattle, about one hundred head of sheep and goats, and every 258 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. year they plant wheat, maize, and beans for the father whom they were hoping to receive. 1 8. On the eighteenth, after a seventeen leagues' journey, we arrived at the pueblo of San Ygnacio, hav ing passed through that of Santa Maria Madalena, which, with the pueblo higher up, namely that of San Joseph de Hymeres, are in charge of Father Agustin de Campos ; and although his Reverence was somewhat indisposed from tertian ague, he received us with all kindness. 19. On the nineteenth, passing through San Joseph de Hymeres and Babasaqui, after nine leagues' journey I arrived at my pueblo of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Reme dios, where I found that they had just finished roofing two very good lodges with very good rafters and boards of pine. We rested here this afternoon. 20. On the twentieth we arrived, thanks to his di vine Majesty, in safety at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Do lores, having travelled in going and returning three hundred and eighty-four leagues in twenty-six days, without our pack-animals becoming weary and without any mishap, which we attributed to the celestial favors of our Lord, having happily caught sight of California and the passage to it by land, having solemnized forty- two baptisms, and discovered four other new nations and the great Rio Colorado, or Rio del Norte. And we reported this news to the lovers of new conversions as previously they had asked me to do. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 259 CHAPTER XII. LETTERS WHICH THE FATHERS OF THE COMPANY, AS WELL AS OTHERS, SECULAR GENTLEMEN, WRITE ME, HAVING HEARD THE NEWS OF THE ABOVE-RELATED EXPEDITION AND DISCOVERY The Father Visitor. The father visitor, Antonio Leal, on October 9 wrote me the following letter: I am greatly rejoiced over the return of your Reverence from your journey, which the father rector, Juan Maria de Salva tierra, had written me to ask your Reverence about, because of the importance of the certainty of its being mainland. Very good news also is that of the Rio Colorado and of the other na tions. Operarii autem pauci,S52 that is the pity of it. For God now offers so great a harvest in so great a field. May he recompense your Reverence for such toil in discovering so many sheep, redeemed by the blood of Jesus Christ, but separated from His fold. The Father Rector of this Mission. The father rector of this mission of San Francisco Xavier, Adamo Gilg, writes thus: A hearty welcome to your Reverence from your long apos tolic excursion, which the father rector Juan Maria Salvatierra asked of us. It is now well established that the Sea of Cali fornia does not reach to thirty-four degrees of latitude. To the father rector of the College of Matape, Mar cos Antonio Kappus, I sent, together with these reports, some of the blue shells which they had given me the year before, in February, on the Rio Colorado, and which caused me to infer that this land route must exist because I had seen shells of the same kind on the op posite coast in the year 1685, when in company with the Admiral Don Ysydro de Attondo y Antillon.353 The Father Rector of Matape. The father rector answered me thus: I esteem the blue shells above my eyes, and especially the 352 "But the laborers are few" (Luke, x, 2). sss See the "Index." 260 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. large one, which truly is a rare piece. May your Reverence live a thousand years. Yesterday the father rector Juan Maria Salvatierra sent me four shells from the opposite coast, and these are neither more nor less than of the same sort and source. The Senor Military Commander. The Sefior mil itary commander of this province of Sonora, Don Do mingo Jironza Petris de Cruzatt, who always had strongly urged these expeditions in the service of God and the king, and for them had already in four other distinct letters given me thanks in the name of his royal Majesty, on this occasion also wrote me a very kind let ter full of comfort and congratulations, etc. General Juan Fernandez de la Fuente. General Juan Fernandez de la Fuente, captain of the presidio of Janos and alcalde mayor of Casas Grandes, wrote me the following: At a time when evil rumors were current, spread by some ill disposed persons (who for that reason are not credited, and who dream of revolts not intended, which often arise from our an nouncing them and talking about them, the natives having no such intention) with great rejoicing and appreciation on my part I just received the very much esteemed letter of your Reverence, by which I see all that has been done by your Reverence in the service of God and the king, which for me has certainly been most delightful news. Our very reverend fathers, Rector Juan Maria de Salvatierra and Francisco Maria Piccolo, and all the other pioneers, have greatly rejoiced, and I should be greatly delighted if your Reverence and I could see each other, that face to face and mouth to mouth we might confer upon all that might be to your pleasure and of service to God and the King, and to all. In all such matters as may arise, I shall subject myself, and sacrifice my life and estate, for in doing the service of God and the King and the common weal we may promise ourselves eternal salvation, which is all that we can desire. Thus far General Juan Fernandez de la Fuente. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO. S.J. 261 CHAPTER XIII. LETTER OF THE FATHER RECTOR JUAN MARIA DE SALVATIERRA, TO WHOM IN THE MONTHS PRECEDING I HAD WRITTEN OF THE VERY GREAT PROBABILITY OF THE LAND ROUTE TO CALIFORNIA Two days after I had returned from the above-men tioned expedition to the Rio Colorado and the land route to California, I received a long letter from the father rector, Juan Maria de Salvatierra, dated Loreto Concho, California, August 25, of this year of 1700. In it his Reverence, among other things, writes to me the following : I received here in Loreto, all at one time, the letters of your Reverence written in Matape and other places, and they were a great comfort to me. We have rejoiced to know the almost cer tainty that this land is a part of the continent and joins New Spain ; and the only thing lacking is to know in what lat itude this gulf ends, which we are all hoping your Reverence will write us after the rains, for next year, if they succor us, it will not be difficult to compass the one hundred leagues, even though they be one hundred and fifty, so as to meet. We are in great want, what with having had no supplies from Mexico in fourteen months, and altogether lacking in the matter of goods, chocolate, tobacco, etc., which can not be otherwise than the re sult of some other great disaster to a bark or barks. God's will be done in everything, for I hope the gates of hell will not pre vail against the great little house of Loreto. And it has an im portant bearing upon the case to know the way by land to where this sea heads, so as to be able to secure aid overland in an emergency, such as may happen to us in case of complete de struction of the shipping, etc In regard to the gift of the cattle and their transportation to Hiaqui, again I express to your Reverence my appreciation of the abundant charity thereof, for your Reverence's part in it, and also for what you did with the other fathers. Accept, your Reverence, warm greetings from Father Francisco Maria Pic colo, and from all the people of this Loreto, who have rejoiced 262 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. in the hopes of the continental connection and who anxiously await the last news. Thus far the Father Rector Juan Maria de Salva tierra, just after these reports had been obtained, and as I was actually writing to his Reverence, with the diary of all the above-mentioned expedition, which I sent to his Reverence in California. In view of its contents his Reverence came afterward in person from Nuestra Sefiora de Loreto, in California, to this mission of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores of this Pimeria, to make an expedition to the land passage to California, in the month of February of the following year, 1701, as is stated in Book II, following. CHAPTER XIV. ABOUT SEVEN HUNDRED BEEVES AND OTHER CATTLE ARE COLLECTED AND HERDED IN THESE MISSIONS OF SONORA, AND TAKEN TO MATAPE AND HYA QUI FOR CALIFORNIA 1,700. On the occasion of Father Rector Juan Maria de Salvatierra's having come from California to Cina loa and to Aome, in February and March of this year, 1700, for the cleaning, careening, and equipment of the ship San Firmin, the question came up of the gift of cattle which these missions of Sonora were to give to California; and afterward the greater part of these cattle were given at the most opportune time, which was in October and November, at branding time. And his Reverence wrote me from Cinaloa the two follow ing letters, the first, of May 9, being of this tenor: On Wednesday I shall take the road for Onabas, and if I am not prevented by my health, or some sudden call from Loreto, California, I shall go on to Matape on the twenty-second of this month. And because of the hope of happily seeing your Rever ence there, I do not answer the points, so loving, of your letter, one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 263 which have caused my heart to swell. I have just received a letter from the father rector of Matape, in which he advises me that he has already received the ten loads of provisions which your Reverence sends for the missions of Nuestra Sefiora de Loreto, of California, for which I thank your Reverence, and which I esteem above my eyes. And I thank your Reverence for the three hundred beeves which you offer for California. And on May 21, among other points in a long letter, his Reverence wrote me the following: I thought to be able to reach Matape, but the heat of the sun, the development of an eye trouble by the natives, the sudden return of the launch from California, and the necessity of my presence, as well for the sake of the careening as of going on her, because the people on the other side are alone and numer ous, the conjunction of these reasons has forced me to return from here. I greatly regret the ill-fortune of not having been able to see your Reverence. In reference to the three hundred beeves which your Reverence wishes to give to California, I am afraid that they will occasion want or damage in the missions of the Pimas, for, as I have heard, your Reverence is asking for new fathers to place in the Pimeria, and so for the present let me say that your Reverence may keep one hundred for the Pimeria, but the two hundred I need immediately for California, delivered in the port of Hyaqui, which the father provincial has assigned to me for cattle, and which is near Loreto Concho, of California, a Christendom in which we have set foot, which is already estab lished, and which is being fostered, conserved, and advanced. It has cost sweat, and blood, and great treasure, and through the patronage of most holy Mary the gospel is being spread from sea to sea, the rancherias intervening being now subdued from coast to coast. Thus far the father rector, Juan Maria de Salva tierra. In virtue of this letter, although some urged the difficulty of the heat, and others other occupations, I entered at once upon the work of transporting to Matape, Tecoripa, and Hyaqui, the two hundred cattle which this mission of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios [Dolores] 264 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA was giving to California; and I accompanied them, and in person helped them to Tuape in June. Afterward, in November, on my return from my ex pedition at branding time, the other districts gave a goodly number of cattle ; for I went to Matape, a fifty leagues' journey, to send them to the new ranch of Hya qui, that from that ranch the fathers of California might obtain the meat, tallow, and lard that might be needed, sending the cattle alive to California, also, as might be needed and as occasion should demand. The district of Oposura gave one hundred, and a thousand head of sheep and goats, which were bought in Hyaqui in ex change for cattle. The district of Ures gave ten beeves more, and the district of Cucurpe one hundred; the dis trict of Matape gave sixty, besides some horses ; the dis trict of Guepaca seventy, the district of Arispe fifty, and the other missions other numbers. And with this we ended the year 1700. BOOK II. EXPEDITION OR MISSION WITH THE FATHER RECTOR, JUAN MARIA DE SALVATIERRA, TO THE HEAD OF THE SEA OF CALIFORNIA, AT THIRTY-ONE DE GREES OF LATITUDE; HOSTILITIES OF THE APACHES ON THESE FRONTIERS OF SONORA. GOOD STATE OF THE NEW CONVERSIONS OF THIS EX TENSIVE PIMERIA AND OF ITS NEIGHBORING NATIONS CHAPTER I. THE COMING OF THE FATHER RECTOR JUAN MARIA DE SALVATIERRA FROM THE MISSION OF NUESTRA SENORA DE LORETO, CALIFORNIA, TO THESE MISSIONS OF HYAQUI, SONORA, AND OF THIS PIMERIA, TO GO BY LAND TO SAID CALIFORNIA January and February, 1701. The father rector, Juan Maria de Salvatierra, and I, having continually exchanged letters with a view to possible discoveries and to the advancement of these spiritual and tem poral conquests and new conversions of California, and of its neighboring new lands and nations, and having made reports of those of this Pimeria here (which, like the missions, old and new, of Chinipas, of Cinaloa, and of Sonora, owe so much to the apostolic holy care of his Reverence, for he has been their most vigilant, very zealous, and indefatigable father visitor), he came in January and February of this year 1701, by sea, from California to these missions of Hyaqui and Sonora, and of this Pimeria, with firm and well founded hopes of 266 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. returning by land in latitude thirty-one or thirty-two degrees to his mission of Nuestra Sefiora de Loreto Concho, where his Reverence left as vice-rector Father Francisco Maria Picolo, and as commander and cap tain of the soldiers, Captain Antonio de Mendosa y Garzia, and the barks and crews in charge of their commanders for the careening and the voyages which might be necessary. From Tecoripa and Matape and other places his Reverence had written me numerous different letters in regard to the things -provisions, pack-animals, and cattle-which we should need for this new expedition to the land passage to California, and perhaps to Cali fornia itself, and far inland, or even to Loreto Concho. And, therefore, both here within this Pimeria and out side it, in the other neighboring missions, provision was made of all necessaries in the way of servants, flour, bis cuit, meat, pack-animals, etc. And lest there should be some resistance or difficulty in the passage by land to California, or in California itself, in descending from thirty-two degrees,354 where the above-mentioned pas sage is, to twenty-six degrees, where the mission of Nuestra Sefiora de Loreto Concho is situated, the father rector Juan Maria de Salvatierra determined to take some soldiers for the journey. To that end his Rever ence went to the Real de San Juan to see the Sefior mili tary commander, Don Domingo Jyronza Petris de Cru- zatt, and with ease he obtained from his lordship ten366 soldiers with their commander, while from the other citizens of the Real de San Juan and of the Valle de 354 See page 265, where he says thirty-one degrees. The figures 1, 2, and 4, in early Spanish manuscripts, are easily confused, a fact which may explain Kino's apparent inconsistency in his latitudes. 355 Manje (Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 97) says that Salvatierra se cured Manje, four soldiers, and eight citizens. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 267 Sonora, and from the missionary fathers of the old mis sions, he acquired the necessary supply of good servants, muleteers, and pack and saddle mules. With that from without and from this Pimeria more than forty loads of provisions and other things necessary were collected, and were carried upon this expedition. CHAPTER II. THE COMING OF THE HOSTILE APACHES TO THESE FRONTIERS OF SONORA, WITH SO MANY HOSTILITIES, ROBBERIES, AND MUR DERS, THAT IT SEEMED THAT IT WAS GOING TO PREVENT OUR EXPEDITION TO THE LAND PASSAGE TO CALIFORNIA At this same time, in January and February, the Apaches came in, for their accustomed annual rob beries ; and after stealing horses, etc., in various places, in the ranch of Cucurpe, very near here, they did the serious damage of which Father Melchor Bartyromo wrote me in the letter following, dated at Cucurpe, February 1 : 1 701. For lack of paper I did not write to your Reverence from Saracachi, where the enemy, more than two hundred In dians, made an attack on Sunday long after sunrise, killing six persons, and wounding seven, of whom three are in danger. They sacked all the houses except mine and the overseer's, where the other people were saved, and carried off horses and mares, we know not how many, and all the sheep and goats. I have sorrowed only for the death of so many innocents, not for the temporal matters. Commend us to the Lord, your Reverence, in your holy sacrifices, to which I commend myself. Cucurpe, Feb. 1. P.S. Be on your guard, your Reverence, because it may be that the enemy are still lurking about here, for they were many. P.S. Now, at dawn, February 2, day of the Virgin, German has come to inform me that they overtook the enemy and took the stolen horses away from them. Thus far Father Bartyromo. 268 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. The great misfortune through these deaths so pitiful, greatly dismayed all the province, and it seemed that it was going to hinder our journey to the land passage to California. But the father rector, Juan Maria de Sal vatierra, wrote me from Tuape the following letters, one of the tenth, the other of the fourteenth of Febru ary. The one of the tenth runs thus : February io and 14. When I was on the point of writing and dispatching a letter to your Reverence, Father Melchor told me he had received one from your Reverence containing the good news that Alferez Escalante had taken all the horses from the enemy, and so I detain the bearer a little while to give your Reverence congratulations for this victory. And, because your Reverence was occupied in giving mules and horses in honor of the Madonna of Loreto, and succor for her California mission, the Lady has looked upon all the benefactors. Long live Jesus ! Long live Mary! I have received your Reverence's letter with the salutations of the beloved Pima children, to whom I beg your Reverence to return my greetings; for I will rejoice to embrace them. Tomorrow or the day after I go to Cucurpe, and, in order not to detain the bearer, I say no more. The second letter, of the fourteenth, runs thus : This war of Saracachi has done us a very ill turn. But there is no reason to lose courage. I suppose that your Reverence is very busy with the provisions, for the want of provisions alone can make us turn back, but I am resolved on the contrary, since from this knowledge of lands will come great good for the mis sions of Loreto Concho. It will be necessary that all your Rev erence's mules go from Los Dolores loaded ; some ten or twelve loads of flour, some two loads of pinole, and two loads of biscuit. And it is necessary that all the tierces be of six arrobas, which, as they proceed, will be continually lessened. As to dried meat, perhaps it would be well to take a couple of loads, so as not to have to be troubled with having to kill as soon as one arrives at the places even where there are live animals to kill. I am stopping here these two days, for thus I shall see to pre paring the few beasts that I take, for, on ascending higher, it will be necessary to shut them up at night, and they will suffer much. And for my part, the reconnoissance of this land is of one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 269 such importance that if necessary I shall stop here until the rains, in the accomplishment of this purpose. And so for the love of God I beg your Reverence to provide supplies, for I am resolved on my part not to turn back for want of them; and therefore I pray your Reverence to advise me of all, and in par ticular of what your Reverence has already provided of the kinds above mentioned. I return the greetings of your Reverence's children, the Californians who come with me, fruits of the toils and zeal of your Reverence. Thus far the father rector, Juan Maria de Salva tierra. CHAPTER III. THESE HOSTILITIES OF THE APACHES ARE ATTRIBUTED, ALTHOUGH VERY FALSELY, TO THE PIMAS; AND THE INNOCENCE OF THIS PIMERIA IS CLEARLY SHOWN AND DECLARED In regard to these above mentioned murders, rob beries, and hostilities, there were so many controversies and such perverse and hostile opinions that the friend ships of principal persons of this province were im paired and broken, many attributing those evils to the always hostile Hojomes, Janos, Sumas, and Apaches, while others perforce laid them upon the Pimas of this Pimeria, and attested reports, although false, were made. But our Lord made clear the truth in many ways, and forthwith the two following letters from those who pursued the enemy and took from them a great part of the booty which they carried, very clearly indicated it to me. One, dated February 13, is from Captain Pedro de Peralta, lieutenant of those frontiers, and is as follows : My Father Eusebio Francisco Kino. Reward! Reward! Reward ! The hostile Indians who attacked Saracachi, on their return passed by this Real de Bacanuchi and took from the cor ral of Simon Romo a drove of mares and other beasts. It was 270 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. reported to the presidio of Fronteras, and Alferez Escalante set out with fifteen men, while ten went from here. Near Chigui- cahui they overtook thirty-six enemies, and recovered the ani mals from them; and they saw clearly and distinctly that they were Apaches. They recovered tecomates 358 and other spoils which they had stolen in Saracachi. The enemy fled to the sierra and they could not be followed for lack of horses. Thus, they are not Pimas, as has been imagined ; and so I do not lose my reward, but I would give it gladly for the great love I bear the Pimas. Yesterday, February 12, the soldiers arrived with the horses, very much pleased at having discovered that the mur derers and robbers are Apaches and Hojomes, etc. Thus far Captain Peralta. And Captain Christoval Granillo de Salazar, also on the thirteenth of February, from the Real de Bacanuchi wrote the following: A matter of great rejoicing for me was the receipt of a letter from your Reverence, for I have very greatly desired to have news of the friendly Pimas, because of the great confusion in which the rumors have kept us, and which are no sooner believed than they are circumstantially disproved. Now our Lord hath willed that the identity of those who attacked Saracachi should be known. Yesterday, the twelfth instant, arrived my brother Simon and the soldiers who went in pursuit of them, with the Sefior Alferez Juan de Escalante, who overtook them in the little sierra beyond San Joseph, about twelve leagues from Chi- guicahui, where they recovered the horses which were taken from this valley. By their dress and their arms all the soldiers recognized them to be Apaches, and they saw them about an arquebus-shot away. They could not kill them, because they lacked animals, and because the country was bad. I do not ask reward because my godfather, Captain Peralta, has already asked it, but I shall not lose it. Thus far Captain Christoval Granillo de Salazar. Another event, although sad in a way, clearly re vealed the innocence of this Pimeria. Because, on the eighteenth of February, notice having come that here, near the peak of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios, in a 356 Gourd vessels. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 271 deep and very rough valley, the enemy had stolen and secreted many horses, some Indians from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores and some from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios set out to see to taking them away, and the governor of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios with two of his men, and the foreman of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, with others of his men, fought to the death. And the Father Visitor Antonio Leal wrote me the let ter following: I give your Reverence warm condolence, entwined with hearty congratulations, for the death of the Pima children, for with their blood and with their lives well they have manifested to all the world that the malevolent and the malefactors are not the Pimas nor the Pimeria. The same was said and written by various other per sons, that is, that since the Pimas gave their lives to resist the robberies, the Pimas were not the ones who committed them, nor friends of such evils. CHAPTER IV. THE FATHER RECTOR, JUAN MARIA DE SALVATIERRA, COMES TO THIS MISSION OR PU EBLO OF NUESTRA SESORA DE LOS DOLORES, AND WE UNDERTAKE THE EXPEDITION TO THE PAS SAGE BY LAND TO CALIFORNIA. HIS REVER ENCE SETS OUT WESTWARD FOR SAN YGNACIO AND AFTER A JOURNEY OF FIFTY LEAGUES ARRIVES AT NUESTRA SESORA DE LA CONCEPCION 35T About the twentieth of February Father Juan Maria Salvatierra with ten soldiers and his native Cali fornians, etc., arrived from Cucurpe at this district of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. We talked with pleas ure of everything concerning the expedition to this land 357 For Salvatierra's journey with Kino, see Manje, op. cit, 96-110; Salvatierra to Arteaga, in Doc. Hist. Mex., Cuarta Serie, tomo v, 126-15+; Salvatierra to Gonzalez in Venegas Noticia, vol. ii, ioi-ioz. 2n MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. passage to California, especially on account of the blue shells, because in these days the father rector of Matape had written me the following letter : Very greatly has the father rector, Juan de Salvatierra, re joiced to see the blue shells, in particular the large one with which your Reverence favored me, and the two balls and the belt ; 3SS and his Reverence no longer doubts that this land has continental connection with that of California. Having arranged that this district of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores should give for the journey to the pas sage twenty loads of provisions -flour, dried meat, bis- suit, etc. - and eighty sumpters, most of them mules, the father rector, Juan Maria Salvatierra, on the twenty- fifth of February set out westward from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores for the pueblo of San Ygnacio, with two soldiers, for he had made the rest return to Saracachi, on account of a rumor of enemies that arose.359 His Reverence carried from here for the jour ney the picture of Our Lady of Loreto, well painted by the hand of Juan Correa, which was a great comfort to us in all the journey. We placed her upon the altar when we said mass, the fathers taking charge of her personally, the one in the morning and the other in the afternoon. 858 Texido de la faxa. 359 Manje was sent with the military escort from the Real de San Juan Bautista, capital of the province. Setting out on February 16, with eight citizens, he went to Cucurpe, where he joined Father Salvatierra, who was preparing supplies given for the journey by Father Melchor Bartiromo. The departure for Dolores was delayed by an attack of three hundred Apaches on Zaracachi, whence they stole two hundred animals. Manje set out on the trail and found that the Apaches had killed five Pimas near Los Remedios. Escalante also set out, from the presidio, with twenty soldiers, calling the Pimas to aid, but failed to overtake the enemy. At Dolores, Manje was joined by Ayudante Nicolas de Bohorques and three soldiers, making twelve men in the escort, besides Manje. Manje's account conflicts slightly with this one (Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 97-98). See also Sal vatierra's account, op. cit., 129-134. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 273 At San Ygnacio, which is ten leagues from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, and where Father Agustin de Campos was, the Father Rector Juan Maria de Salva tierra provided himself with some supplies, and with some more pack-animals ; and as I, with the solicitude in which the enemy kept us, was detained a little longer, his Reverence wrote me the letter following on the twenty-sixth of February: What with the many gifts which your Reverence has made me, I was able to come but slowly to this district of San Ygnacio. May God recompense your Reverence for the great charity which you dispense even to one who so little merits it. Arrived here, I received the packet which your Reverence de spatched to me ; and news now comes that shortly a new viceroy and archbishop will arrive. It has troubled me to know that the enemy untied a horse at Tuape; and the poor Father Melchor 360 would suppose that the soldiers were at Los Do lores, while it was impossible that the two soldiers should ar rive tonight at Tuape. God grant that it be not a serious affair; yet if it be so, your Reverence has the matter before you, and at all events, whatever your Reverence may decide will be the best considered, you being so experienced and old. Thus far Father Juan Maria. In view of this letter I determined to cast a glance at my three pueblos and order them fortified, on account of such dangers of enemies as existed. Meanwhile the eight soldiers re turned from Saracachi to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Do lores with their leader, Nicholas Bohorgues, and with Captain Juan Mateo Manje, nephew of the Sefior gov ernor of arms, who two days afterward went to overtake the Father Rector Juan Maria de Salvatierra at San Ygnacio.361 From there his Reverence continued his 360 Father Melchor Bartiromo, of Cucurpe. 361 Manje overtook Salvatierra at San Ignacio, and accompanied him to Caborca, where Kino overtook them. An account of the journey of Salva tierra and Manje is given by Manje, Luz de Tierra Incognita, libro ii, 98-99. See also Salvatierra's account, op. cit, 136-139. On the twenty-eighth they 274 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. westward route toward the sea of California, and to ward La Concepcion de Nuestra Sefiora del Cabotca, through Tubutama, Addi, San Antonio del Uquitoa, and San Diego del Pitquin, where his Reverence with his great charity and holy zeal solemnized twenty-six baptisms of sick persons and infants that the natives gave him; and after about fifty leagues' journey from Los Dolores he arrived with his people and with the forty loads of provisions at La Concepcion safely and quickly.CHAPTER V. MY DEPARTURE FROM NUESTRA SENORA DE LOS DOLORES, TO OVERTAKE FATHER RECTOR JUAN MARIA DE SALVATIERRA, DRAWN FROM THE DIARY OF THIS JOURNEY TO THE LAND PASSAGE TO CALIFORNIA March i, 1701. On March 1, 1701, I set out from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores in a northerly direction with nine servants and one servant of the Sefior military commander, and went to cast a glance at my other two pueblos of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios and Cocos pora, because they were frontiers to the enemy, to pro vide for their defence by means of some towers382 and an expedition of Pimas to the eastern lands through which the hostile Hojomes363 and Apaches are accustomed to travel and to penetrate. 2. On March 2, having given ashes at Nuestra Se fiora de Ios Remedios, I went on to give them in the pueblo of Cocospera, where I found two captains of this Pimeria, one named El Coro and the other named El Tarabilla,364 who had just spied the enemy. They set out, passing Magdalena, Tubutama, Ati, Uquitoa, and Pitquin, reaching Caborca on March 6 (Manje, op. cit, 98-99). 362 Toriones. 363 Jocomes. 384 "The Prattler." one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 275 reported that they had seen their smokes, and that they were not more than two days' journey away from the Pi meria, to the eastward. They offered to go soon with a goodly number of Pimas of this immediate district and of the Sobayporis of the north to fight against the said hostile Hojomes and Apaches, and for this purpose I ordered provisions of meat, maize, and wheat given to them and to the soldiers, four of whom had come to Cocospera, leaving thirteen others in Bacanuchi; and these Pimas afterwards had the good fortune which I shall relate at the end of this diary. 3. On the third the four soldiers, having confessed, set out for Bacanuchi to join the other thirteen again ; and I set out for the west and for Nuestra Sefiora de la Concepcion del Cabotca, following the father rector, Juan Maria de Salvatierra; and after fifteen leagues' journey I arrived after nightfall at the ranch of San Simon y San Judas del Siboda.365 4. On the fourth they gave me three infants to bap tize; I provided myself with twenty other good pack- animals; seven droves of mares were branded; and I left orders for branding immediately afterwards the thousand head of cattle contained in this ranch, which I have dedicated to the aid of the new conversions which may be founded. 5. On the fifth, after a thirteen leagues' journey, I arrived near the rancheria named Aquimuri. 6. On the sixth, after going three leagues I arrived in time to say mass at San Ambrosio del Busanic, where I found more than five hundred persons who had as sembled, and after mass they gave me five infants and a sick adult to baptize. We learned that Father Rec tor Juan Maria had passed through the neighboring 365 This is the first diary of an expedition by precisely this route. 276 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. pueblo of Tubutama. We killed one beef of the more than eighty which they were tending for me here, with four droves of mares; and as there was also wheat and maize here belonging to the Church, they had ground and provided for us four loads of flour for our journey. 7. On the seventh we set out for the pueblo of El Tubutama and for the rancheria of Addi, where we arrived after a fourteen leagues' journey. After the first three leagues, at El Saric, they gave me six infants to baptize, one afterwards on the journey at the ranch of El Tubutama, and one in El Saric366 also, where they were tending for me of eighty head of small stock, wheat, maize, and beans, and where also they had pro vided for us some loads of flour for our journey. 8. On the eighth I set out from Addi, and, passing through the rancheria of San Antonio del Uquitoa, and through the incipient pueblo of San Diego del Pitquin, after an eighteen leagues' journey I arrived at nightfall at Nuestra Sefiora de la Concepcion del Cabotca, where, with the very great charity of Father Rector Juan Maria, I was received at the door of the little church, with the picture of Our Lady of Loreto on the altar, and by the soldiers, and by more than four hundred Indians placed in a line, very much as in the old Christian pueblos. 366 EI Saric is apparently a mis-copy for Addii. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 277 CHAPTER VI. HAVING PERFORMED THIRTY-THREE SOLEMN BAPTISMS AT LA CONCEPCION, AFTER GO ING FIFTY LEAGUES ALONG THE COAST OF THE SEA OF CALIFORNIA WE ARRIVED AT THE RANCHERIA AND RANCH OF SAN MARZELO DEL SONOYDAG MARCH 9, 1701. On the ninth of March, here at Nuestra Sefiora de la Concepcion del Cabotca, Father Juan Maria de Salvatierra and I solemnly baptized thirty infants and three sick adults, whom for this purpose the very friendly natives of this very large new pueblo gave us.367 During these three days we killed three fat beeves and three sheep of the very fat large and small stock which they were tending for me here. They were taking care for me also of a good field of wheat, and they had already cleared another piece of ground to plant maize for the church and for the father whom they were waiting for and desired to receive. In the afternoon the packtrain set out with forty loads of provisions and supplies. At nightfall came four Indians sent by the captain of San Rafael del Actun, by which we had to pass ; and although it was forty leagues away, they came to meet and receive us with very friendly messages from the natives there. 10. On the tenth we set out along the coast toward the northwest, or between north and west, for San Ed- uardo del Baypia,368 carrying with us the picture of Our Lady of Loreto; and, overtaking the pack-train, 367 Father Barrillas, now old, had ceased to live permanently at Caborca, but visited it from time to time (Manje, Luz de Tierra Incognita, libro ii, 98-99). 388 Anza in 1774 called the place "Baipia or Aribaipia, which the Indians indifferently call it, and which in our language means little wells" (Diario, entry for Jan. 23). Garces on the same day noted within a league of the place three rancherias, the largest of which was Cuboitac (Diario). See also Lumholtz (New Trails in Mexico, 149-173) who went over the same old trail in 1909, and gave a good description of Arivaipia. 278 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. we arrived at sunset, being welcomed very kindly by more than three hundred Indians. 1 1. On the eleventh we all set out together with the pack-train for San Luys Bertrando del Bacapa, and after traversing seventeen leagues of very level and pleasant road we arrived very late at night at a rather small water-hole and batequi, or small well. Various parts of this road were made so pleasant and beautiful by virtue of roses and flowers of different colors, that it seemed as if Nature had placed them there for the re ception of Our Lady of Loreto.369 Almost all day we were praying and chanting various prayers and praises of Our Lady in different languages -in Castilian, in Latin, in Italian, and also in the Calif ornian language; for the six natives of California, four large and two small, whom the Father Rector Juan Maria had brought with him, were so well indoctrinated and in structed in everything that they sang the prayers, since the father rector had already arranged them for them in pretty couplets, in this Californian language; and we said with the Holy Psalmist, Cantabiles mihi erant justificaciones tuas in coro peregrinaciones meat.3™ 12. On the twelfth, after a five leagues'371 journey, we arrived at San Luys Bertrando del Bacapa, where 369 Manje gives a very different impression of this day's journey. He gives the distance as fourteen leagues and says they spent the night without water, "as a result of which the animals were already beside themselves for thirst, for not since the morning of the day before had they drunk scarcely anything, for which reason nine fled from us that night, and there is no doubt that this was a day of the greatest difficulty, care, and affliction" (Manje, op. tit, ioo). He wrote, it is true, that next morning they found near by a well called Sauracan from which they scooped up handfuls of water for the perishing animals. Salvatierra gives other details, op. cit, 140-141. 370 "Thy justifications were the subject of my song in the place of my pilgrimage" (Psalm, cxviii, 54). 371 Manje says six leagues. Citing Herrera, Decada 4*, he opines that Bacapa was passed through by Coronado's army (Manje, Luz de Tierra In cdgnita, libro ii, 101). He says that the distance of forty leagues from the sea corresponds with that given by Herrera. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 279 there is very good water and good pasturage, and the very loyal natives of these environs brought us the ten pack-animals372 which the night before had run away from us and been lost. 13. On the thirteenth the father rector, Juan Maria, preached in Castilian to the soldiers, and in the Pima language to the Pima natives. He went in person to the wood near-by to cut with an ax a large tree with which we set up a holy cross, the natives aiding us. We sent ahead word to San Marcelo to give notice of our coming, and back to bring the loads which yester day had remained behind. 14. On the fourteenth, setting out from San Luys Bertrando del Bacapa, after a twelve373 leagues' jour ney we came before sunset to San Marcelo del Sonoy dag, having taken our siesta near a good watering-place. The natives of San Marcelo came out a league to meet us with a holy cross which they gave to the father rector, receiving us with arches and crosses erected on the roads, which they had cleared neatly, and with an arbor prepared, and giving us an account not only of the cattle here but also of the messages which some months before I had sent to the Quiquimas and other Indians at the mouth of the Rio Colorado and the pas sage to California, and of the friendly responses which they sent, expressing the desire that we should come to see them. Here at San Marcelo we found about two hundred persons including various justices, governors, 372 Manje says that at Bacapa there were six permanent springs. The village contained eighty naked persons. The site was modern Quitovac. Anza writes, "It is one of the best of the Papagueria through having five springs of water. . . This Quitobac the Jesuit Fathers called San Luis de Bacapa, of which addition the inhabitants have no memory . . . but they do preserve the name of San Luis" (Diario, Jan. 26, 1774). Garces went through the place in 1771, and was with Anza in 1774. See also Sal vatierra, op. cit, 142-143, and Lumholtz, op. cit, 170. 373 Manje gives the distance as fifteen leagues. 280 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. and captains who had come to see us from different and even remote places ; and to all of them was preached the Word of God, which was well received.374 15. On the fifteenth we rested in this good post of San Marcelo, which has very good and abundant pas turage and water running in the little river, than which there is no other within fifty leagues around. The cat tle, which consisted of sixty-three head,375 were round ed up ; and we killed two beeves, which were very fat with much tallow and suet, and it was a great relief to all and a great comfort to the father rector that in a country so far inland we should find this refreshment. We received letters from San Ygnacio, Matape, Hya qui, and in particular from Father Juan de Hugarte, who had just come from Mexico to go, as he did go, to California. His Reverence wrote that in an ancient itinerary which he was carrying with him, it was said that in these parts where we were penetrating, very populous and very rich missions could be formed, which afterwards could aid in maintaining other mis sions, less prosperous, in California. CHAPTER VII. SETTING OUT FROM SAN MARCELO DEL SONOYDAG TO THE WESTWARD, AFTER A JOURNEY OF THIRTY-FIVE LEAGUES WE ARRIVE AT THE HEAD OF THE SEA OF CALIFORNIA IN THIRTY-ONE DEGREES LATITUDE March 16, 170 i. On the sixteenth of March, 1701, we set out westward for the Sea of California, follow ing the little river of San Marcelo ; and after travelling eight376 leagues we arrived and halted at a canebrake 374 Manje tells of the rich soil here, and the fields of crops all under ir rigation from the good arroyo and many springs. 376 Manje says eighty head. While resting here messengers were sent to the villages living nearer the sea, to get guides to show them the water holes. 376 Manje says ten leagues. The place where they stopped was called Comaquidan. From this point messengers were sent to the Indians living north of the Colorado (Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 102). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 281 with very good pasturage, water, and wood. As our convoys and guides went the alcalde of San Marcelo and a governor who knew very well the two languages, Pima and Quiquima, and who the year before, being sick, had been baptized by the name of Eusebio. 17. On the seventeenth we rested in this good stop ping-place of El Carrizal,377 waiting together for the two fiscals from the sea whom we had summoned through the alcalde of San Marzelo,378 to come as our guides in our expedition to the Quiquimas of Califor nia, for one of them had already gone in the preceding months with my message and some little gifts which I had sent him from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. 18. On the eighteenth, these fiscals and guides hav ing come with many people from the sea, and having given us the very good news that the Quiquimas were waiting for us anxiously and lovingly, and advising us that this more direct and shorter road to the westward was so sandy that the sumpters would travel with dif ficulty and be very poorly supplied with water and pas turage, it became doubtful whether we should make our journey of about sixty leagues by the west, or go up to the northwest, circling the very great sandy waste at the head of the Sea of California, and ascending to the Rio Grande and Rio Colorado by the circuit by which I had already come in other times in the preceding years, as has been told. It was determined that we should travel by the shortest road, and that leading most directly westward; and after a thirteen leagues' journey we came to the rancheria called Sucoybutoba- bia, where there were about two hundred souls.379 When 377 Carrizal, the name of this place. Salvatierra calls it La Anunciata. 378 Manje says they waited to give the messengers, mentioned above, time. 379 Manje says that he opposed the decision to take this route but yielded 282 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. we had spoken to them the Word of God they gave us several persons to baptize, but we baptized only one little girl and a very old Indian woman who was prob ably about one hundred and twenty years of age. The water supply here as well as the pasturage was very short, and it cost us much toil, and the personal labor of both fathers, to deepen the wells to obtain the water that the men and we might drink. After nightfall about forty Indians from the sea came to see us and told us that about here there was nothing but two large tanks of rain-water shut in between the rocks of the large mountain near-by and the ancient volcano of Santa Clara.380 19. On the nineteenth we set out for the rancheria and watering-place, or great tank, of El Basoitutgan,381 where there was good pasture also. We found about one hundred persons, and afterwards many other natives came, some with gifts; and we dispatched some little gifts to the Quiquimas. 20. On the twentieth, Palm Sunday, having said the two masses, with the benediction and distribution of branches (for in honor of this day and yesterday, when we arrived, we called this post San Joseph de Ra mos),382 we set out for the west; and after covering six to the opinion of the Fathers. He gives the direction as southwest over stony plains, and the distance as ten leagues. They camped in the bed of a dry arroyo called Sicobuto bavia (Manje, Luz de Tierra Incognita, libro ii, 102). 380 The Santa Clara Mountain was the present Sierra del Pinacate. In 1909-1910 Lumholtz made three trips from Quitovaquita and Carrizal to the district, over almost precisely the three routes opened by Kino, whose explorations in that region were unfortunately unknown to him. Most of the places mentioned by Kino can be identified by Lumholtz's excellent descriptions and map (op. tit., chaps. 13-14). 381 Manje gives this as Basotucan and gives the distance as eight leagues. The water was in two tanks where the horses drank, after twenty-four hours without it. The village was south of the Santa Clara mountain. Manje gives the number as fifty persons. See Tinaja del Cuervo, on Lumholtz's map. Salvatierra calls this place Ayodsudao, and the previous one Totonat. 382 Ramos means "palms" or "branches." Domingo de Ramos is Palm Sunday. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 283 leagues of road, although level, and along weathered rocks like slag383 which long ago had been thrown out by this mountain or volcano of Santa Clara, which we passed on our right or to the north, we arrived at an other tank of water shut in between rocks, with very lit tle pasturage; and ascending with Captain Juan Mateo Manje to a neighboring little hill, we descried Califor nia very plainly, to the west and southwest, and after wards the soldiers also and all the men sighted it.384 21. On the twenty-first we went westward eight leagues farther, leaving half the men and the loads in this camp. We traveled almost all this day along very sandy country and through very great sand-dunes, in which our pack-animals traveled with difficulty. The water supply which we found was three little springs of somewhat brackish water.385 Almost all of us went down on foot to the very beach of the sea, which was little more than half a league away, whence the sailors, especially, carried away a great quantity of all kinds of pretty shells and snails. Afterwards the father rector summoned the muleteers, with the loads and the horses 383 Temesquitate. See Salvatierra's vivid description, op. cit, 146. 384 Manje describes the journey as eight leagues over "mai Pais y Arca- bucos y Zeborucos." They camped at El Tupo near a tank of rain water with the Santa Clara Mountain behind them. Manje describes the temes quitate of the last two days' march. He describes the volcanic features of the Santa Clara Mountain and tells of its ascent by Kino on a former oc casion. It was nine leagues from the sea. See Tinaja de Ios Chivos on Lumholtz's map. See also Lumholtz, op. cit, 205, 228. Salvatierra calls this place Aibacusi and the next Duburcopota (op. cit, 146-149). 385 Manje gives the name of these springs as Cubo quasi vavia. They were two leagues from the sea on the flats. Manje says they were in latitude 320 and where the shore ran northwest, without any bay, although the maps called for the Bay of Santa Clara. Where they were the Gulf seemed about twelve leagues across, and it appeared to be about thirty-six leagues to the place where the Gulf seemed to head. The missionaries concluded that this was the fact but Manje was not convinced, and says "we had a friendly dispute." Manje and Kino planned to try to cover the distance to the Colo rado in a day and a night, but they found it impossible for lack of water for the horses, and were forced to return, leaving nine horses on the beach (Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 105). 284 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. which had stayed at the preceding camp, because with the three springs in this stopping-place there was suf ficient good pasturage. But the following day we found that the waters of these three little springs had not welled up in so great a quantity as we had expected, although the necessary water did not fail us. CHAPTER VIII. ON ACCOUNT OF FINDING A SAND- DUNE MORE THAN SIXTY LEAGUES AROUND, SITU ATED AT THE HEAD OF THE SEA OF CALIFORNIA, AND BECAUSE OUR PACK-ANIMALS WERE GROWING TIRED, WE RETURNED, HAV ING TWICE SIGHTED CALIFORNIA MARCH 22,, 1701. On the twenty-second at midday I took the altitude of the sun with the astrolabe and found that this gulf of California ended in thirty-one386 degrees latitude. Already, by other journeys I have found that this Californian Gulf has at its head to the northward a stretch of sand-dunes so large that it is more than sixty leagues around, and it now became a hindrance to our passing farther by this route, although today, about two in the afternoon, our men and pack- train arrived with the loads from the preceding camp. This had been so without water that on the return it was necessary for us to travel until midnight to reach the camp of San Joseph de Ramos, and many of our pack-animals were tired out, while some loads remained on the road. 23. On the twenty-third we rested387 while those loads were coming on. 386 Manje says that Santa Clara Mountain was near 320. 387 Kino and Manje differ here. Manje says they set out on the twenty- third and traveled all day and part of the night of the twenty-third to reach San Joseph de Ramos, eighteen leagues. Manje says they rested only on the twenty-fourth, instead of on the twenty-third and twenty-fourth, as Kino says (Manje, 106). From here Father Salvatierra sent a letter to Picolo over land by Indians but it never reached him. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 285 24. On the twenty-fourth, Holy Thursday, mass was said, and many natives of these environs came to see us, and also two governors from far inland whither I had penetrated the year before, who begged us to go in to their lands ; but as our sumpters were already very much fatigued, we told them to come with us to San Marzelo, where we were going to rest for a week. These governors gave us even more detailed accounts of how in the preceding months my messages and gifts had penetrated to the Quiquimas, and how they were waiting for us with very friendly anxiety. 25. On the twenty-fifth, Good Friday and the Day of the Incarnation of our Lord, we came to El Car rizal388 near San Marzelo. Our pack-animals had be come very tired on this road, but they were reinvigorat- ed, however, with the good pasturage of this post. Many natives from various parts came to see us. 26. On the twenty-sixth we rested in this good camp. I took the altitude of the sun with the astrolabe and found that we were in thirty-one degrees and ten min utes. We made an arbor in which to celebrate Easter.389 27. On the twenty-seventh, Easter, the soldiers and the other people confessed and received communion, and the father rector preached to them. We made a little sketch of this extremity of the sea of California. 28. We sent to the ranch of San Marzelo for a beef and fresh meat, which came the following day. 29. On the twenty-ninth many Indians of the east came to see us, and six of them agreed to go, and did go, with us on another new little journey to the west ward, which the father rector and Captain Juan Mateo 388 The canebrake, ante, page 281. 389 At Carrizal they awaited the pack train, which reached there two days behind, arriving on the twenty-seventh. 286 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Manje and I made quickly with four servants from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, in latitude thirty-one degrees and thirty-five minutes, to see whether by this route we might find an entry and a passage to the Qui quimas and quite beyond them and round the head of the sea of California.380 30. On the thirtieth we awaited our news from the west, which, however, did not come. 31. On the thirty-first the father rector, Captain Juan Mateo Manje, and I set out to the westward with the six Pima guides from the east, and with eighteen mules and three horses with six light loads. After traversing thirteen391 leagues of level road we arrived an hour before sunset at the stopping-place and water- hole which they called Pitaqui, and which we after wards called La Petaca.392 From a little hill which we ascended, taking with us the picture of Our Lady of Loreto, we plainly sighted California and the great mountain range which they call Sierra del Mescal, and the other which they call Sierra Azul, as well as the closing in of both lands, this New Spain and California.393 At nightfall some natives came to see us with their wives and little children, whom they gave us to baptize after having heard the Word of God, which we preached to them. April i. On the first of April, we having sent an Indian to summon the rest of the people of that dis- 390 Manje says they were caused to return by the guides telling of a water ing place north of Santa Clara. Salvatierra adds interesting items, op cit, 149-154. 391 A journey of seventeen leagues (Manje), Pitaqui having been twenty- four leagues from San Marcelo. 392 The sachel or trunk. A play on the word Pitaqui. 393 Manje says fourteen leagues northwest to three tanks of rain water. They climbed another hill six leagues north of Santa Clara. Manje says they could determine nothing from where they were. The tank was clearly that now called Tinaja de Ios Papagoes. The peak was evidently Sierra Hornaday or the crater just south of it. See Lumholtz, op. cit, 232. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 287 trict, at ten o'clock he brought two squads of Yuma, Pima, and Cocomaricopa natives, with their governors, who for the most part were of those whom I had seen the year before at San Dionisio, about forty leagues farther to the north, at the confluence of the Rio Colo rado and the Rio Grande; and they all told us that to go inland as we desired to the Quiquimas of California, there still lay before us thirty leagues, or three days' journey, of stretches of sand such that they had neither water nor pasturage, whereupon the father rector, Juan Maria, determined that we should return, but we planned that on another and more favorable occasion, after the rainy season and the hot weather, I should penetrate in higher latitude by way of the confluence of the rivers and by San Dionisio (as I did enter in No vember) to the said Quiquimas. And this afternoon we retraced half of the distance traversed the day before, contenting ourselves meanwhile with having seen so plainly the truth in regard to the land passage to California, for, with this journey and that which I made five months afterward to thirty-three and thirty- two degrees of latitude, not the least doubt remained, unless it were in the incorrect opinion of some disaffect ed persons. 2. On the second we arrived at midday at El Carizal, and at night-fall at San Marcelo, where the adjutant and the soldiers were waiting for us with many natives, and with many letters from Sonora, and from various parts. 3. On the third Father Rector Juan Maria deter mined to return with the ten soldiers by way of La Con cepcion del Cabotca, through which we had come, and I, because it was some time since I had seen the Pimeria of the north and its Sobayporis, determined to return to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores by the north and San 288 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Xavier del Baac. The question then arose as to wheth er the father rector or I should carry the beloved pic ture of Our Lady of Loreto, and although I should have been content to have the father rector carry that great consolation with him, his Reverence determined that we should draw lots by writing on two little papers "north" and "south" ; and as on drawing the little pa pers the one for the "north" fell to me, to me fell the joy of carrying this great Lady of Loreto in the north of this Pimeria of the Sobaiporis, she being our North Star. This afternoon the father rector set out with the ten soldiers on his southerly route. I remained for some small matters of business, and to await some replies from the interior and for the building of a little church, almost a chapel, of Nuestra Sefiora de Loreto, in which I was able to say mass on three days. Although my desire was to set out early the following day with Cap tain Juan Mateo Manje for San Xavier del Baac, so many runners came from the Quiquimas by day and by night that I had to wait three days. Thereby I left very solid and well-established peace-agreements be tween these Pimas and those Quiquimas, who promised that they would come to meet one another and to confer in a very friendly way and in great numbers at a half way point, as was done, and that they would advise me of everything at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, in or der that by the Divine Grace I might penetrate to the Quiquimas in the following autumn. 4. On the fourth the twelve small beams were cut for the little church of Nuestra Sefiora de Loreto de San Marcelo and its altar was made. The fiscal whom I had sent with the runner of the night before came and brought us news that the governor whom the father rec- one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 289 tor had dispatched with messages to Loreto Concho was returning from the Quiquimas, and that he was bringing messages and gifts from the Yumas and Qui quimas. 5. Early on the fifth I dispatched another runner to meet and bring quickly the above mentioned govern or. The first mass was said in the little new church with the picture of Our Lady of Loreto placed on the new altar. Orders were given to clear land to plant maize which in sufficient quantity the captain of El Comae had brought us from Tucubabia. At nightfall the governor came bringing the messages and presents from the Quiquimas, especially some blue shells from the opposite coast, saying that with very friendly anxie ty they had been waiting for us, greatly desiring our friendship, in order to be converted to our holy faith, and being very much pleased with the messages and little gifts which we had sent them on different occa sions, now from about here, from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores in the preceding months, and from San Dion isio the past year. To reassure them I sent word that, God helping me, I would come the next autumn to see them ; and I determined to set out the day following for the Sobayporis of the north.394 CHAPTER IX. SETTING OUT FROM SAN MARCELO, AFTER A FIFTY-THREE LEAGUES' JOURNEY WE AR RIVED AT SAN FRANCISCO XAVIER DEL BAAC OF THE SOBAIPORIS. THE KINDNESS AND GOOD CONDITION OF THE NATIVES April 6, 1701. On the sixth of April, having left word that with the eight loads of provisions which had been left over to us from this expedition they should finish carefully roofing the little new church of Nues- 394 Manje omits nearly all the events of the three days spent at Sonoita. 290 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. tra Sefiora de Loreto, and that the natives should plant very good fields for themselves also, I set out with Cap tain Juan Mateo Manje from San Marselo, by an east ward course, for San Raphael del Actum el Grande, whence in the afternoon we went on to the watering- place named Gubo.395 7. On the seventh, after a five leagues' journey we arrived at the camp and rancheria of Nuestra Sefiora de la Merced del Batqui,396 whose natives welcomed, accompanied, and guided us lovingly. From here by a southerly road I dispatched to Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores four servants, two muleteers, and two cow boys, with some mules of the pack-train and the most exhausted of the pack-animals; and with the sixteen best pack-animals, most of them mules, I continued my journey to San Xavier del Baac. Traveling twelve leagues farther for lack of a watering-place, after night fall we arrived at San Serafin del Actum El Chico,89' where not only for the people but also for our pack- animals they had to bring us water in pots from a water- hole at some distance. Today along the road they gave me five infants to baptize, among them two new born twins who were somewhat weak. Here we began to obtain some information in regard to the many Pimas, both Sobaiporis and non-Sobai- poris, who in the days preceding had gone out against the hostile Hojomes, Janos, and Apaches, as I related at the beginning of this account of this expedition, for because the Sefior governor of El Parral had called a 395 Thirteen leagues for the day. Manje does not mention San Rafael del Actum el Grande. 396 From page 278 we learn that Batqui means "well." Manje says there was a tank at Vatqui. 397 The Little, as distinguished from S. Rafael del Actum El Grande (the Large). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, SJ. 291 squadron of soldiers from this presidio of Sonora to the Taraumares, the other soldiers availed themselves of these Pimas against the enemies of. this province.398 8. On the eighth, after a sixteen leagues' journey, passing by three other rancherias, we arrived at that of El Tupo, all these places also being very poorly sup plied with water, although the natives had already planted their crops of maize, beans, and calabashes.399 9. On the ninth, after a ten leagues' journey, at two in the afternoon we arrived at San Xavier del Baac.400 Some natives who were hunting and from afar saw us coming on our journey, left the chase and came to meet us and to welcome us with all friendliness and love. We found that a few days before the governor and the captain of this great rancheria or incipient pueblo of San Xavier del Baac had gone out with many other natives to war against the enemies of this province of Sonora, the Hojomes, Apaches, and Janos. 10. On the tenth we rested here at San Xavier, giv ing various Christian instruction to the many natives who were here. We saw the good field of wheat be longing to the church, the seventy head of sheep and goats, and the cattle which had remained (for more than two hundred had returned to San Luys on account of the neglect of the few cowboys, especially when they had gone to eat pitajayas) . Much kindness was shown us by these very excellent natives. They gave us many of their provisions, many of their good fabrics and 398 Manje says they went eighteen leagues for the day, passing five rancherios after leaving Vatqui, and camped at Guactun. Here the Indians gave them red guacamaya feathers. 399 Manje says eighteen leagues to Rancheria del Tups, where there was a good tank. 400 Manje says twelve leagues to Bac. Here they learned that half of the men had gone with Escalante, at the call of Jironza, to avenge the death of the five Pimas. 292 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. blankets of cotton, numerous baskets, buck-skins, and red feathers of the many macaws which are raised here, etc. This afternoon came the news of the victory which these Pimas had won in their war against the enemy on the very day when Our Lady of Loreto entered into these their lands, as is told in the following chapter.401 CHAPTER X. SETTING OUT FROM SAN XAVIER DEL BAAC, AFTER TRAVELLING SIXTY LEAGUES SOUTH WE ARRIVE AT NUESTRA SE5JORA DE LOS DOLORES; LETTERS FROM THE ROYAL JUSTICES AND MILI TARY LEADERS WHICH WE RECEIVE ON THE WAY IN REGARD TO THE HAPPY VICTORY OF THESE PIMAS OVER THE ENEMIES OF THIS PROVINCE OF SONORA 1 1 . On the eleventh of April, taking our way toward the south, after an eighteen leagues' journey we arrived at San Cayetano.402 12. On the twelfth we came to San Luys, a ten leagues' journey, passing at midday by San Gabriel de Guebavi. In the ranch of San Luys we counted the three hundred and forty cattle that were there.403 We found that the soldiers of the presidio who seven days before had passed by this ranch with the Indians of Cocospera and of these environs had taken to the war a few beeves and some of the sheep. 13. On the thirteenth we set out for Cocospera,404 401 Manje omits the events of this day. For the importance of the pitajaya, or sahuaro (cereus giganteus) to the Papagoes, see Lumholtz, op. cit, chap. iv. 402 Manje gives the distance as twenty leagues. At San Cayetano they slept in the house of adobe y terrado which the natives had built for the minister they were awaiting. 403 Manje says they counted four hundred cattle and two hundred sheep on the Guevavi ranch, and mentions the minister's house at San Luis de Bacoancos. 404 Above San Luis they passed through four rancherias. Manje gives the distance as fourteen leagues. At Coc6spera the Indians were building a one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 293 and two days afterward for Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Do lores,406 for I had been detained by the following letter of the Sefior alcalde mayor of this province, Don Ysi dro Ruiz de Abechuco, who, with the citizens of the Real de San Juan and of the province of Sonora, also had made an expedition to the north against the enemy. His Honor on the fourteenth of April wrote me from Guebavi the following excellent letter: I have just arrived at this valley and pueblo of Guebavi, and I have learned through the Pima natives that your Reverence passed this way toward your home. Now I assure you that I have regretted not having come a day sooner that we might have the pleasure of seeing each other and I of speaking with all this Pima nation. For at present they are assembled, because they have just come back from having given the Apaches a good beating, as they tell me; and I observe that the victory which they have won is great, because there is no one who does not come with a scalp-lock and as joyful as I am at having found so suitable an occasion to welcome them all from the victory which they bring, and to see them as friendly as if we had been in communication with them all our lives. May God preserve them in peace, and by means of them may we secure in the province the quietude which it so much desired; and may it be for the service of God and the King. I have had information also that the journey which your Reverence has made in the company of the Very Reverend Father Juan Maria Salvatierra has been one of great satisfac tion and pleasure, because the purpose which was desired, of dis- church and a house, according to Kino's orders. Two days were spent here to supervise and assist in the work. Here they learned that the Pimas and soldiers had killed forty Apaches and captured twenty children in the last campaign, without loss to the Spaniards. All the braves bore Apache scalps and a scalp dance was held (Manje, Luz de Tierra Incognita, libro ii, 109). 405 On the sixteenth they went six leagues to Remedios, which was under Kino's administration. They found the house and church well along, and the house painted. The church when finished was to have three chapels and a beautiful transept, of the best in Sonora. On the same day they went eight leagues to Dolores, where they entered the temple to give thanks for the suc cessful journey. On this journey four hundred new Indians had been regis tered (Manje, Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 105-110). 294 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. covering a land route to California, has been accomplished. This news has been a source of very great pleasure to me; and therefore I shall appreciate it if your Reverence will inform me if it is true. I shall set out day after tomorrow from this val ley, and I shall go by way of Cocospora,406 with God's favor, toward Bacanuche, and so if anything occurs to your Reverence in which I can serve you, you may command me with the cer tainty of my good will. All the citizens and companions who come with me salute your Reverence and the very Reverend Father Juan Maria very heartily, and all greatly rejoice at the successful journey of your Reverence, in particular Captain Simon Rodrigues Soto and Captain Recalde, who also are with me in this valley and pueblo of Guebavi. But in order not to trouble your Reverence I say no more, nor do I enlarge on everything as I should wish. I set out with the citizens to fol low after and to aid the Pimas, but as I could not arrive in time to fight with them against the Apaches, from Quiburi I re turned to this valley to see and to speak with these natives, with whom I have been much pleased. All the natives salute your Reverence, and in particular the governor of the ranch, Eusevio, who said to me after this was closed that I should salute your Reverence and advise you that all are returning safe from their journey.407 Thus far General Ysidro Ruis de Abechuco. And 406 From Manje we learn that Ruiz de Abechuco, with his twenty men, overtook Kino and Salvatierra at Cocospera (Manje, Luz de Tierra In cdgnita, libro ii, no). 407 Manje's last journey with the missionaries was the one made with Kino and Salvatierra. In the nine (I find only eight) recounted in his itin eraries he and the fathers had travelled three thousand leagues, not counting four campaigns against the Indians, and others to the Pimeria for other purposes. They had listed of the Pimas alone twelve thousand souls, and two thousand Yuma men corresponding to as many families. They had bap tized in these pueblos seven hundred. In these seven years the Pimas killed six hundred and eighty enemies, not to count the captured children (Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 110-112). Add to this the campaigns made by the fifty soldiers of the Compania Volante in the first seven years during which Jironza founded and ruled it. More than thirty are noted in the book, autos of which were sent to the offi cials; not to mention monthly journeys to explore the frontiers and passes, recover stolen goods, or convoy merchant trains or passengers (ibid., 112). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 295 immediately afterward comes the following letter from the commander of the soldiers, Juan Bautista de Escalante. It is as follow : My dear Sir : The reason for my not having written these lines before, on the occasion of having come into those Pima lands, was a lack of paper. Nevertheless, being now upon this frontier, I do not wish to neglect to inform your Reverence how I went on the campaign which our beloved and loving Pimas made against the enemies of our holy faith, in which it has gone very well with us ; for our friends, three hundred and thirty-two in number, set out with only the provisions which they could car ry in their bags. They persevered in the campaign in great need and hunger, and succeeded in carrying out their intentions, as His Divine Majesty granted us also ; for, after having march ed some days we attacked a rancheria of Apaches, where seven teen of the enemy were killed, without any injury to us. We captured sixteen persons, of whom the Pimas are taking twelve and have sold us four, because I told them that whatever was captured should belong to the captor, in order to rouse in them a stronger desire to display valor. And such was the case, for they, being many, captured fourteen, and we two. This has been of great importance as a means of showing the opponents of this new nation the falsehood and the error in which they have been, unless it be that partisanship closes the eyes of their reason. But Divine Majesty, who always favors the truth, will open the understanding and the eyes of those who have kept them closed, by means of many another victory which I hope we shall win, with the aid of the Pimas, as I see them each day. And if there had been provisions we should have won not one good victory but many. But they agreed to make another campaign. For all this we ought to give thanks to God our Lord and also to your Reverence, for, it is through you and your very Christian zeal for the honor of God that we have such excellent friends as are our Pimas. And so on my part I thank your paternal Rev erence and repeatedly for your good work in the service of God and the King, and my companions do the same. Now let me inform your Reverence that my departure from that frontier was so very sudden that we all set out without any 296 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. provisions for the campaign except a few tortillas in our saddle bags, for which reason necessity obliged me to kill at San Luys and at Guebavi two ewes and one wether. At the same time I ordered sent from said ranch of San Luys a few cattle to Sonoi dag,408 which was the rendezvous of the Indians. And having detained Captain Coro a day to kill two beeves, they asked me to give them some, too, for which reason I killed eight, two for myself and six for the Pimas, four cows and four horses, two large and two small. I give this information in such detail in order that your Rev erence may decide what seems best to you in the matter, for I am ready to do whatever your paternal Reverence may deter mine concerning the payment of the amount of all this. In deed, besides repaying it, I thank you, for the great care of your Reverence in having so many ranches in different parts is of much assistance to us, as has been the case on this occasion. And so I await the response of your paternal Reverence, to whom may our Lord grant good health and a long life, that with your holy zeal you may give us many new friends for the defense of the holy Gospel. Presidio of Corodeguachi, April 13, 1701. Juan Bautista de Escalante kisses the hand of your Reverence. CHAPTER XI. VARIOUS OTHER LETTERS FROM THE DIFFERENT MISSIONARY FATHERS, BOTH IN RE GARD TO THE ABOVE-MENTIONED JOURNEY TO THE LAND PASSAGE TO CALIFORNIA, AND IN REGARD TO THE VICTORY OF THESE PIMAS OVER THE ENEMIES OF THIS PROVINCE OF SONORA The father rector, Juan Maria de Salvatierra, hav ing set out from San Marcelo by La Concepcion del Cabotca and by San Ygnacio, and having arrived at Cucurpe, on the fourteenth of April wrote me the fol lowing : Having arrived at this pueblo of Cucurpe in safety, thanks be to God and to His Most Holy Mother, I salute your Rev erence heartily. It is necessary for me to set out for the neigh- 408 Not the Sonoita near the Gulf, but another place by this name east of the Santa Cruz River and north of Guebavi. There was a third Sonoita south of Nogales. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 297 borhood of our coast and harbor, for my ignorance of every thing unsettles me. Father Melchor Bartiromo tells me that your Reverence arrived yesterday afternoon at Cocospera with Captain Juan Matheo Manje, and certainly I have rejoiced that your Reverence's journey has turned out well. The sumpters of your Reverence have all been delivered at Santa Maria Magdalena to the drivers of the pack train. Words fail me with which to thank your Reverence for so many and so great toils undertaken in the honor of the Madonna of Discovery. May she intercede with her most precious Son for the recom pense of all. Thus I shall write to the father provincial and to the father visitor and to the rest. On setting out from Cucurpe to return to California his Reverence wrote me the following: I congratulate your Reverence on the victory of the Pima natives over the enemy, of which I hear, with my foot in the stirrup at Cucurpe, when about to set out in all haste to Yaqui to see if I can repair the many damages and relieve poor Cali fornia, made helpless through the loss, as they say, of two barks which do not appear in any port. My beloved Father Eusevio, now it is time for your Reverence to aid us with a good consign ment of flour, tallow, and suet, in skins, because I consider these poor people in great need. If your Reverence could send your pack-train to Matape with aid it would be of great impor tance at this time, and the father rector of Matape will send it promptly to Hyaqui for the sail-boats. And, so, if your Rev erence can do it, I earnestly beseech you to write to the father rector of Matape telling how many loads you can send and when they can be in Matape, so that he may have ready every thing which goes to Hyaqui. Your Reverence will pardon one molestation after another, for the occasion of so great a loss forces me to it. And, finally, I beg that you will not forget me in your prayers and holy sacrifices. The father rector, Juan Maria de Salvatierra, having arrived in California, on the sixteenth of May wrote me the following from Loreto Concho : I have received the news of your Reverence's return to your holy mission, and I have rejoiced at the good success of the Pima natives over the enemy and at the blue shells from the 298 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Quiquimas. Your Reverence has a thousand benedictions from all the fathers and seculars for your journey and for the dis covery, from the hill, at a distance, of the joining of New California and New Spain. And much greater has been the rejoicing to know that your Reverence has the means and the desire to examine at close hand that which a distant vision might misrepresent. I have just received a recent letter from the father provincial, and in it I note that the California of your Reverence is California efisienter,409 for your Reverence with your aid will bring it about that California will be California ; and so, your Reverence, take courage with your aid, for the one who is effisienter 410 is this Pater et Mater Calif orniorum Lau- retanorum.411Thus far Father Rector Juan Maria; and in the same letter Father Francisco Maria Picolo adds the follow ing: My beloved Father Eusevio Francisco Kino, I give your Reverence a thousand congratulations for the discovery, so much desired. May our Lord grant us the boon of seeing California carry on trade with New Spain by land, for the relief of these missions and for the good of so many souls. I shall rejoice if your Reverence's health be perfect, and may you live for many years to the glory of His Divine Majesty, etc. The father visitor, Anttonio Leal, on the seventeenth of April wrote me thus : I have rejoiced greatly that your Reverence has now re turned from your journey, which has been made with hopes so well-founded as to constitute certainty of the continuity of the land. God willing, on another occasion the rest shall be ac complished, and even if on this occasion nothing more had been accomplished than the peace-agreements of those nations the trouble would have been well worth while. God will repay your Reverence, as He is repaying you already, for soon came the rejoicing over the victory of the Pimas and the booty which they bring, which has caused very general jubilation. The father rector, Juan Maria Salvatierra, is very grateful to your 409 "Indeed." In his letter to Arteaga Salvatierra gives data concerning his return to California (op. cit, 154-156). «° "Efficient." 411 "Father and mother of the California Lorettines.'' one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 299 Reverence for the good which you have done him in everything. He asks me to thank your Reverence, as I do once and again. Thus far the father visitor. The Father Rector Mar cos de Loyola on the eighteenth of April wrote me the following : The father visitor has just communicated to me a letter of your Reverence, written from Cocospora to Father Bartyromo about the victory which the Pimas and the soldiers have won over the hostile Jocomes and Janos, news very welcome to all, and to me especially, for everything that your Reverence so many times has asserted in regard to the Pimas has proved so true that there can be no doubt that now the incredulous will believe what your Reverence has proved so conclusively. Also, he communicated to me the arrival of your Reverence from your journey, so extended, and the great good which your Rev erences have done in those travels, and that you have succeeded in finding the way to California. I do not know how to signify to your Reverence how much I have rejoiced on account of this. Already I have written to the father visitor that the great suc cess of the journey is due to your Reverence and to your many praiseworthy toils, for your Reverence, with your apostolic en deavor, has been the first to penetrate those unknown lands, and you are the one who is preparing those harvests, so that in their time they may be gathered in with much fruit. For all this a thousand thanks to your Reverence. I wish I were some thing in religion 412 so as to reward that which is so worthy of reward, but God is He who must do that. Thus far Father Rector Marcos de Loyola. The Father Rector Manual Gonzales on the thirtieth of May wrote me the following : A thousand million congratulations I give to your Reverence; no longer are proofs necessary for your Pimeria. A thousand more the Sefior alcalde mayor will give if they are asked of him. Vale, mi Pater amantissime, vale, vale, et laetare, a thousand million times and for all eternity; et ora pro me, etc.413 412 I.e., held an office. 41s "Farewell, my most loving Father, farewell, a thousand million times and for all eternity, be of good cheer and pray for me." 300 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Father Oracio Polise, who during the three years past was visitor of the missions of Sonora, who afterwards received from Rome the rectorate of San Luys Porto- li,414 and who has always been very sympathetic, loving, and a great encourager and promoter of the new con versions, wrote me another letter of like tenor, and of the things which were dictated to him by his great zeal for so many souls as there are in this North America, so extensive. Father Geronimo Pistoya, who was visitor and rec tor of the College of Cinaloa, not only after the journey but also during it, on the eleventh of February wrote me this apostolic and holy consolation, as follows : I give your Reverence sincere thanks for the great work you have done in seeking out the scattered sheep, and those which are outside the fold of the holy Gospel. God will recompense your Reverence for it even in this life, and one of the compensa tions is the opposition which your Reverence has always met. I do not deny that it is grievous and bitter to human nature, but it is very glorious and sweet to the Divine. Father Venzeslao Eumer,415 visitor of the Tarau mares, making known the great error of the English General Drake, who falsely delineated California for us as an island, apropos of what Father Rector Juan Maria wrote to the Taraumeres, on the fifth of Septem ber wrote me the following very learned and very fer vent letter in Latin : 41S May the event be blest, happy and joyous, may it redound to 414 Evidently a mis-copy for San Luis Potosi. 415 Stocklein (Neue Welt-Bott, theil ii, 85-86) prints a letter from P. Wenceslau Eymer, of Bohemia, to R. P. Joannem Walt, in Bohemia, written Jan. 8, 1696, from Papigotschyki, Tarahumara. For a sketch of Eymer see Huonder, op. cit, 107. 416 Instead of giving the Latin in the text as in case of other Latin pas sages, the translation is given here, the Latin being put in the note. The passage is as follows: "Quod bonum, felix, fortunatumque sit, et ad majorem one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 301 the greater glory of God, to the honor of His Immaculate Mother, to the extension of Holy Church, to the spread of our orthodox faith, and to the salvation of souls that, under the auspices of the queen of Loreto, by the apostolic sweat, and un tiring labor of Fathers Juan Maria and Francisco Eusebio, California has been happily found to be part of the mainland. Away now with British temerity, with her English Drake, and let him keep silent who boasts that he has circumnavigated California, as if, by a foolish fiction, California were the At lantis of the West. I congratulate Your Reverence, therefore, and I ask God's most abundant blessings, fortified with which you may wage relentless war on Californian idolatry, while we, glorious with the palm, sing your victory. Thus says Father Wenceslaus. I shall give, farther on, letters from the superiors and from the province. CHAPTER XII. LETTERS FROM OTHER SECULAR GENTLEMEN AND MINISTERS OF HIS ROYAL MAJES TY IN REGARD TO THIS JOURNEY AND THE PASSAGE TO CALIFORNIA, AND IN REGARD TO THIS VICTORY OF THE PIMAS Captain Juan Mateo Manje, who went with us on this expedition, wrote a long account of it in which, although he supports the statements of the fathers, yet, on account of a bay417 which we saw from a distance about three leagues farther to the west than the ridge whence we returned, with the unanimous and unquali- Dei Deiparaque sine labe concepts honorem, Ecclesia Sanctte incremen- tum, Fidei ortodoxa dilatacionem, animarumque Salutem eveniat, Cali fornia sub auspiciis Regina Lauretana, Sudore apostolico et labore indefesso P. P. Joannis Maria et Francisci Eusebii Continens feliciter inventa est. Eat nunc cum suo Draco Angli[c]o et digitum ori imponat temeritas Britanica, qua inani fabula in Allante Californiarum Californiam a se circumnaviga- tam jactat Gratulor igitur Reverentia Vestra, et uberrima Dei auxilia precor, quibus munitus helium idolatria California indicat cruentum cum palma Victoriam gloriosi occinimus." 417 Manje distinctly says that, contrary to the maps and geographers, they could find no bay near Santa Clara (Luz de Tierra Incdgnita, libro ii, 104). 302 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. fied favorable opinion of the fathers, he placed in doubt whether or not California had continental connection with this land ; but now, by the two expeditions which I afterwards made to that bay, this doubt has been re moved, as shall be seen in the next book. General Don Domingo Jironza Petris de Crussatt, who has been twice governor of New Mexico and al calde mayor and captain of the presidio of this province of Sonora, on the twenty-first of June wrote me the fol lowing : Once and again I thank your Reverence for the greetings of the excellent Pima natives, to whom I very heartily return greet ings, for, although I have measured the strength of the common enemy, we are going to have tranquillity through that Pima nation, and they are to be the fundamental base from which to extend the seed of the Gospel through the long circuit of the other nations. The credit is due to your Reverence for the greatest watchfulness in your unwearying peregrinations, so much for the service of God, who will give the reward for all. I am still waiting for the blue shells which came from Cali fornia by a continental route found by the good endeavors of your Reverence, who are worthy of receiving repeated thanks and rewards from the superiors for undertakings so heroic, and whenever opportunity offers I shall give to the Sefior viceroy and to the superior fathers account of everything.418 CHAPTER XIII. FOUR NEW MISSIONARY FATHERS ENTER THIS PIMERIA 1 70 1. As a result of the expedition of the father visitor, Antonio Leal, which was made two years before and which I narrate in the first part, and of the reports of his Reverence and of other persons zealous for the 418 On the margin at this point in the original are directions to transfer the remainder of this chapter to chapter viii of the next Book, where the passages chronologically belong. They have been so transferred. See pages 325-327, post one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 303 service of God and the king, this year, 1701, the father provincial, Francisco de Arteaga, sent us four new fathers for this Pimeria; and, although the accustomed obstacles and opposition did not fail, they came in to the posts and new pueblos which were assigned to them by the father visitor. They found the many do cile people, and cattle, crops, and harvests, and the be ginnings of houses and churches which his Reverence had seen with his eyes, and they remained very well content, with great hopes of establishing there in the interior some very flourishing missions, as they said and wrote to me and to other persons on different occasions. The four fathers who entered were the following: Father Juan de San Martin came to the three ran cherias or new pueblos of San Gabriel de Guebavi, San Cayetano, and San Luys, which are about thirty leagues to the northward of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dol ores. Father Francisco Gonzalvo went on farther to San Francisco Xavier del Baac of the Sobayporis, which is about sixty leagues from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. To the west, to San Pedro and San Pablo del Tubu tama, which is twenty-five leagues from Nuestra Se fiora de Ios Dolores, and fifteen from San Ygnacio, went Father Ygnacio de Yturmendi ; and twenty-two leagues farther inland, to Nuestra Sefiora de la Concepcion del Cabotca, went Father Caspar de las Barillas. In all places buildings were constructed, and very good beginnings were made in spiritual and temporal matters. In Guebavi in a few months we finished a house and a church, small but neat, and we laid the foundations of a church and a large house. Father 304 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA Juan de San Martin, on going by San Ygnacio, on the thirtieth of June wrote me the following letter: Yesterday afternoon, on account of the rain, which was ex cessive, we did not set out from San Ygnacio for Hymeres, al though the loads and packs had already gone; and as nothing happens by chance, so far as God is concerned, his Majesty dis posed my detention that I might receive your Reverence's letter and learn from it the very great charity which your Reverence does me, offering to assist me with all that is necessary for the new pueblos where holy duty assigns me.419 Father Ygnacio de Yturmendi, from his new district of San Pedro y San Pablo del Tubutama, on the eighth of July wrote me thus : God will reward your Reverence for the gift of the cattle, sheep, goats, etc.; the reward your Reverence will receive in the next life, for your Reverence shows yourself a father to us poor fathers. I have been very grateful for the many favors of your Reverence. Similarly, on account of the accustomed opposi tion of the common enemy, on the twenty-first of July the father visitor, Antonio Leal, wrote me the follow ing: Much comfort have I had in your Reverence's letter, and because of those which the fathers have written to your Rev erence. Now God is moving against the hindrances of the enemy; so I trust in his Majesty that he wills for your Rever ence these provocations, for your greater merit. 419 Bancroft (Arizona and New Mexico, 361) concludes that Arizona had no "regular mission or resident Jesuit" in Kino's day. This passage shows conclusively that he is mistaken. It is confirmed by other passages in the writings of both Kino and Manje. See Bolton, Spanish Exploration in the Southwest, 449, footnote 3, where Father Gonzalvo's name is by mistake given as Gonzalez. BOOK III. OF MY EXPEDITION OF TWO HUNDRED LEAGUES TO THE QUIQUIMA NATION OF UPPER CALIFORNIA, AND TO THE VERY LARGE, VERY FERTILE, AND VERY POPULOUS RIO COLORADO, WHICH IS THE REAL AND TRUE RIO DEL NORTE, 1701420 CHAPTER I. LETTER OF THE FATHER RECTOR, JUAN MARIA DE SALVATIERRA, IN REGARD TO THIS EXPEDITION, WHICH I RECEIVE WHEN ON THE POINT OF MOUNTING MY HORSE TO UNDERTAKE IT Pursuant to the plans which Father Rector Juan Maria de Salvatierra and I had made in the previous expedition of the past month of March, it was my de sire and determination t^ make this expedition in Octo ber, but as other occupations detained me some days, meanwhile there came from California the letter of his Reverence of September 10, dated at Loreto Concho. It runs thus: 1 701. I receive your Reverence's letter dated July io, with much pleasure at seeing the beloved handwriting of your Rever- 420 Manje adds interesting information here (op. cit., iio-iii). Jironza had agreed, because of the varied opinions and maps, to send soldiers to help the fathers settle the question of the land passage, and to see if a certain mineral vein shown them by the Indians was of gold or quicksilver. The soldiers were not sent because of a change in the military command, General Jacinto Fuensaldana becoming commander of the Compania Volante of Sonora, and Manje could not go because he was made alcalde mayor and captain-general of Sonora, and was called out to punish the Apaches just as the journey was begun. He adds that the missionaries went but left the matter of the land passage still in doubt. 306 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. ence, so eager to go to see the beloved Quiquimas by the head of the strait. God grant your Reverence all the strength which I wish you, and that, with the patronage of the Madonna, Conculcabit leonem ett Draconem ; 421 and so, good courage, which perhaps your Reverence will receive on your passage. We can not set out from here to meet your Reverence because we are without the necessary mounts, through lack of a suitable bark.422 I thank your Reverence sincerely for the ten loads of flour from last year's harvest, delivered at Matape, and the other ten to be delivered at Matape or Nacori, of the harvest of this year, the first of the century. It is the first offering which the Madonna has had, and as little or none can we ex pect from any other district, I pray your reverence that when you can, and as early as possible, you will deliver it at Matape, for we are much in need, not having had the aid of one real from the King our Lord, and most of the soldiers having gone to a little war which we have had with some priests of the idols, which placed us in much danger. But our Lady has aided us, and on the octave of Assumption they captured a prin cipal chief and beat him to death ; 423 the others made peace, coming with crosses in their hands, and we have emerged from that danger. And so, your Reverence, commend us in many devotions to our Lady, that She may give strength to the six teen soldiers who remain to keep the circuit of more than fifty leagues of land obedient. I will give an account to our father of the great aid which your Reverence is giving us. And final ly, your Reverence, accept a thousand greetings from my Fath er Rector Juan Duarte 423a and Father Francisco Maria Picolo. With this I close, commending myself to your holy prayers and sacrifices. Loreto Concho. October 18, 1701. Thus far the father rector, Juan Maria de Salvatier ra. 421 "He will trample under foot the lion and the dragon" (Psalm xc, 13. Conculcabis leonem, etc.) Kino varies the person of the verb to suit the occasion. 422 That is, barks were lacking to transport the necessary horses across the Gulf. 423 Apelotearon, 423aJuan de Ugarte. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, SJ. 307 CHAPTER II. MY DEPARTURE FROM NUESTRA SE- NORA DE LOS DOLORES FOR THE QUIQUIMAS OF CALIFORNIA, WHO ARE TWO HUNDRED LEAGUES DISTANT, WITH TWELVE SERVANTS, AND MY ARRIVAL AT SAN MARCELO, A JOURNEY OF MORE THAN NINETY LEAGUES 424 November 3, 1701. On November 3, 1701, having dispatched five servants a day before with the relay of horses and with two small loads, I set out early from the pueblo of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. I ar rived in time to say mass and have All Souls celebrated at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios, and in the afternoon I passed on to the third pueblo, that of Cocospora. 4. On the fourth, having said the mass of All Souls, I arrived at midday at San Lazaro and spent the night at San Jose Guebavi, passing by San Luys,425 where we killed a beef that they might sow the wheat for the Church; and I sent messages to the rancheria of Los Reyes del Sonoydag, six leagues to the east, to Captain Coro and his many people. 5. On the fifth, having said mass in the new and very neat little church, which a little while before Father Juan de San Martin had built (his Reverence at this time had gone away to be treated) and which I had ordered roofed and whitewashed, I set out to the westward for San Ambrosio del Busanic, and, passing by the borders of the new ranch of San Simon y San Judas del Siboda, where there were about a thousand 424 So far as I know, no other diary of this journey has been found. Heretofore our principal reliance has been Ortega, Apostdlicos Afanes, 295- 301, which is a summary of this diary. Other brief accounts are given in Bancroft, North Mexican States, vol. i, 497-499, Bancroft, Arizona and New Mexico, 359; Venegas, Noticia de la California, vol. ii, 103-105; Alegre, Historia de la Comp. de Jesus, vol. iii, 134. 425 San Luis Bacoancos, called San Luis de Babi by Ortega (Apostdlicos Afanes, 295). 308 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. cattle and seven droves of mares, with sufficient horses and mules, all for the new missions which were being founded, after a fifteen leagues' journey we camped for the night at a good stopping-place, another Sonoydag, six leagues before arriving at San Ambrosio del Bu sanic. 6. On the sixth, Sunday, I arrived in time to say mass at San Ambrosio. We killed two beeves of this small new ranch, which had eighty-six grown cattle and forty-nine young ones, and three droves of mares, one of which we took with us with our relay of horses to San Marcelo, about fifty leagues farther in the interior. 7. On the seventh we dried some meat for the jour ney along the coast. We counted the droves and found out what they had sown and gathered for us of maize and wheat and beans. 8. On the eighth we set out for San Estanislao del Ootcam,426 and having arrived after ten leagues' jour ney, we found that the governor of this rancheria had gathered and was keeping for us more than ten loads of maize which he had sown for us for the Church, with out having been asked to do so. 9. On the ninth, they having given us four infants to baptize, we set out for Santa Ana del Anamic, where we arrived after fifteen leagues' journey, an hour after nightfall, by moonlight, some from San Estanislao ac companying us. The alcalde went ahead prompt ly to give notice of our coming, whereupon the govern or of Santa Ana provided for us a little house and an arbor, and sundry of their eatables. When we had spoken to them of the Word of God they all wished to be baptized the following day, but I consented to bap tize only two infants. 10. On the tenth we continued our route to the 426 Miscalled Ooltan by Ortega (Apostdlicos Afanes, page 296). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 309 westward. After a three leagues' journey we arrived at the small tank, or little well, of Santa Sabina, for afterwards we gave it this name, because on the return I said here the first mass on the day of the glorious saint, and it was the day on which the most glorious apostle of all the Indies died in the East Indies. There was not lacking here some one to sow the very evil darnel that farther on there were no water-holes, trying to induce us thereby to return thence, but a good In dian stranger, whom we made a fiscal and gave some little gifts, told us that he would take us to a good water-hole, although we should arrive at nightfall or a little after, as we did arrive, in the moonlight and half an hour after nightfall. The water-hole had abundant good rain-water with good pasturage. To it as well as to the near-by rancheria we gave the name of San Martin,427 because the following day, day of the glori ous saint, I said his mass here. 1 1 . On the eleventh we set out for San Marcelo ; and after a sixteen leagues' journey we arrived, also at night fall. A little before noon we passed by the rancheria of San Rafael del Actun El Grande,428 where we found that the captain of it had already set out with many other Indians to look for maize, for here none had been raised, on account of the scarcity of rain this year at the time of their planting, for they have no water but that of the rains. Today also many justices of various ran cherias accompanied us, and in San Marcelo we were welcomed with all kindness by the natives, and by their justices, as well as by the very excellent overseer of the ranch, who had carried our messages with singular loy- 427 Ortega overlooked Santa Sabina and placed San Martin at three leagues from Santa Ana. 428 "The Large." Compare San Serafin del Actum el Chico, ante, page 290. The routes between Santa Eulalia and San Rafael, as shown on my map, are to some extent conjectural. 310 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. alty, and had brought about with very good manage ment the treaties between the Yumas and Quiquimas as we had charged them during the preceding months, and he and others gave us very good and very friendly news of both nations. We found the new little church of Nuestra Sefiora de Loreto very well roofed and well whitewashed, and the harvest of wheat and maize, and observed the good care which they had taken of the cattle. We delivered to them the drove of mares which for that purpose we were bringing, and sent to San Ambrosio del Busanic for sheep and goats also that they might be brought hither, as was done. CHAPTER III. WE SET OUT FROM SAN MARCELO, AND AFTER A SIXTY LEAGUES' JOURNEY WE AR RIVE AT THE YUMAS, AND AT SAN DIONYSIO AT THE CONFLUENCE OF THE RIO GRANDE DE HYLA AND THE LARGE RIO COLORA DO, OR RIO DEL NORTE November 12, 170 1. On the twelfth of November I despatched a courier to the Yumas and Quiquimas, giving notice of our coming, and a few hours after ward they brought me some gifts from these nations, consisting of seven curious balls, and blue shells from the opposite coast of California, with very friendly mes sages which they had sent me during the weeks preced ing. We killed two fat beeves, and made a corral for the horses, and one for the cattle ; and I ordered a new irrigation ditch opened, with which (as with ease might be done) to bring the water to the door of the house and at the same time to water a good field of wheat, and the sowing which was made while we went on the ex pedition, and which on our return we found done. 13. On the thirteenth, they having given us four in- one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 311 f ants to baptize, we set out for Carrizal, where we found many people, with a little new house which they had prepared for me, and with new messages from the Yumas and Quiquimas. And they gave me two infants and five sick adults to baptize, the latter being in structed. 14. On the fourteenth we set out for the tank of La Luna, twenty leagues' journey. We arrived by moon light half an hour after night fall, and although this tank is between rocks so sharp that the horses could not ascend to drink, we saw where on the return we could open a way for them, and afterwards we did open it. 15. On the fifteenth we set out for the tank of Agua Escondida. We took a siesta halfway, where there was good pasturage, and at two in the afternoon, after a ten leagues' journey, we arrived at the tank, which we found somewhat scant. We therefore determined to set out as quickly as possible to arrive on the following day so much the earlier at the good tank of La Tinaja, and having set out at nightfall, a good shower came upon us which, however, by the darkness made us lose the way; notwithstanding, we found it afterwards when the storm cleared, and, breaking our sleep a little, we got up very early in the morning, and, 16. On the sixteenth, traveling five leagues more, we said mass at a good stopping-place with water and pas turage. We breakfasted, and passing by the tank of La Tinaja, after a fifteen leagues' journey we arrived early at the Rio Grande de Hyla, and at its first rancheria of San Pedro, where the Yuma and Pima natives, mingled, welcomed us with all love, although with scarcity of provisions, for this year at the best time for planting rain had failed them. We found the courier and other justices who had come before, and also very 312 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. good news of the Quiquimas, who were anxiously wait ing for us.429 17. On the seventeenth we set out from San Pedro westward, for San Dionisio, a great rancheria at the confluence of the Rio Grande de Hyla and the very large Rio Colorado; and, having crossed the Rio Grande on horseback by the only ford which it had in that vicinity, with a following of more than two hun dred Yumas and Pimas from San Pedro, at nightfall we arrived in safety at San Dionisio, where also they received us with great affection. CHAPTER IV. SETTING OUT FROM SAN DIONISIO, AND FROM THE CONFLUENCE OF THE RIVERS COL ORADO AND HYLA, AFTER A FIFTY LEAGUES' JOURNEY WE ARRIVED AT THE QUIQUIMA NATION OF CALIFORNIA ALTA November 18, 1701. On November the eighteenth, having said mass and crossed the Rio Grande again, and taking a southwest course, or between south and west, a road which up to this time we had never trav eled or entered, we set out directly by most level roads toward the Quiquimas of this California Alta, in thirty- three degrees latitude, and rounded the head of the sea, which lay to the south of us, about three hundred Yuma and Pima Indians, mingled, small and great, accom panying us from San Pedro and San Dionysio. They went in these great numbers on this occasion because, they having told me that the Quiquimas had an abun dance of provisions, maize, beans, pumpkins, etc., and they being that year very short of provisions, I said to them that I was now going to the Quiquimas, and would barter for, and buy, and give them provisions, beans, 429 Ortega omits all details of the journey from November n to this point (Apostdlicos Afanes, 296). one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 313 maize, etc., as I did; and all returned well loaded with all kinds of provisions. Having traveled about thir teen leagues through very level country, seeing to the eastward the very great sandy beach of the head of the Sea of California, and to the westward the banks of the very large volumed Rio Colorado, near-by, we arrived at sunset at the new rancheria, still of Yumas, which must have had about five hundred souls, and which we named Santa Ysabel, because the day following I said there the mass of the glorious saint. All the people, although they were rather poor, welcomed us with all friendship and affability, and even late at night we sent to advise the Quiquimas, now near-by, of our coming to their rancherias. 19. On the nineteenth we set out for the first ran cheria, and having arrived at midday we were received with all kindness, with many of their provisions, maize, beans, and various kinds of pumpkins, etc., things which in the six days preceding we had not been able to pro cure. So great was the affection of these natives that with these provisions they came more than two leagues to meet and to welcome us. While we alighted to receive the food, and to reciprocate with some little gifts and trifles, and to make them a talk on Christian doctrine, and on the purposes of our coming, etc., the only Span ish servant who came in our company, on seeing so great a number of so many new people was so terrified that, without our noticing it until a quarter of an hour after mounting our horses again, fled from us to the rear through fright, leaving us very disconsolate and very apprehensive lest he should go to give some false ill news that some great disaster had happened to us ; and although immediately I dispatched in his pursuit the two best boys in the party, who came on the best mounts, 314 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. they could not overtake him. This caused me to send letters by couriers by other and shorter roads, as had happened on other occasions, when they took us for dead, though the celestial favors of our Lord preserved us in a pleasant life of prosperous successes in these new conversions. In this first rancheria of these Quiquimas, with the messages and little gifts which we had sent them during the months preceding, they received us with much friendship, asking us that we should remain some days with them. We remained that day and half of the day following, and to this rancheria we gave the name of San Feliz de Balois, because here I said the mass of the glorious saint. Through the interpreters whom we brought in our following we made them some talks on our holy faith, which were well received by the na tives. Very many people were present from all the surrounding country, and to their principal chiefs we gave justices' staves, and to the principal one of all the nation we gave a captain's staff. We made a decent little house or bower in a pleasant field of maize, which they had just gathered, for here begin very fertile lands, well cultivated, and very good pasturage. The natives greatly wondered at many of our things, for they had never seen nor heard of them. They won dered much at the vestment in which mass is said, and at its curious sort of embroidery representing spring, and its skillfully woven flowers of different beautiful colors ; and they would ask us to keep it on so that those who continually came to visit us might have the pleasure of seeing it. Also, it was a matter of much astonishment to them to see our pack-animals and mounts, for they had never seen horses or mules or heard of them. And when the Yumas and Pimas who came with us said to one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, SJ. 315 them that our horses could run faster than the most fleet-footed natives, they did not believe it, and it was necessary to put it to the test. Thereupon a cowboy from Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores saddled a horse and seven or eight of the most fleet-footed Quiquima runners set out, and although the cowboy at first pur posely let them get a little ahead, and they were very gleeful thereat, he afterwards left them far behind and very much astonished and amazed. This afternoon the Coanopa430 nation came also, from the north and from the northwest, with many provi sions, maize, beans, pumpkins, and various other gifts, greatly desiring our trade, our friendship, and our holy faith, as a result of the message which these days and months past they had received. 20. On the twentieth we set out from San Feliz, continuing our course to the southwest, down the river, to go to see the many other rancherias of the Quiquima nation, and to cross this very large Rio Grande, or Rio del Norte, more than five hundred souls accompanying us, Quiquimas, Yumas, and Pimas. After a five leagues' journey we arrived at the crossing, where the two banks were crowded with people. All of them at once brought us abundant provisions, and they made us a decent little house on this side; for we determined to cross the river the following day, God willing. The people on the other bank and from the west swam across to this one on the east, bringing us their provisions in their bas kets,431 which were so large that each would hold a fanega and more of maize or beans. And they made them float on the water of the quiet, gentle river, after 430 Ortega omits mention of this tribe here (Apostdlicos Afanes, 298). They were the Cocopa, apparently. 431 Coritas. Ortega calls them bateas, a word meaning troughs (Apos tdlicos Afanes, 298). 316 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. the fashion of and in imitation of little canoes. All these Quiquima natives showed themselves most affec tionate toward us, in particular their most friendly cap tain, especially in opening for us some good, and straight, and short roads through the thickets of the abundant and very dense woods, which were on these most fertile banks. CHAPTER V. I CROSSED THE VERY LARGE VOL UMED RIO COLORADO, OR RIO DEL NORTE, ON A RAFT, WITH A SERVANT, AND PENETRATED TO THE WESTWARD THREE LEAGUES, THROUGH MANY RANCHERIAS AND THROUGH VERY FERTILE AND PLEASANT CHAMPAIGNS November 21, 170 1. On November the twenty-first, day of the Presentation of most holy Mary, our Lady, almost at midday, having in the morning carried some long and dry timbers from the little wood very near by, the same captain of the Quiquimas greatly aiding us personally therein, and lashing them together very se curely and making a good raft with some ropes of esmi- quilpa which we had brought for this purpose, we crossed in it this very large volumed Rio Colorado, which is probably about two hundred varas wide, and did not touch the bottom except at the two banks. We intended to take two or three horses over, also, but when they put the first horse in the river at a bad place, where he was mired, he was frightened, and we left him with the rest, and only the governor of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores crossed with me, in company with the many Quiquimas, the captain of the Quiquima nation aiding them in keeping the raft afloat. In order that I might not wet my feet, I accepted the large bas ket in which they wished me to cross, and placing it and fastening it upon the raft, I seated myself in it and one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 317 crossed very comfortably and very pleasantly, without the least risk, taking with me only my breviary, some trifles, and a blanket in which to sleep, and afterwards some branches of broom weed which I wrapped up in my bandana to serve me as a pillow. As we crossed the river many more people came to us and there were dances and entertainments after their fashion. I preached to them through an interpreter, here and on the road, and in the afternoon, when, after about three leagues' journey, we arrived at the house of the captain of the nation.432 In all parts the word of God and the Christian doctrine were well received. All the road was full of small but very continuous rancherias, with very many people, very affable, very well featured, and somewhat whiter than the rest of the Indians. All this road was through a veritable cham paign of most fertile lands, of most beautiful corn fields very well cultivated with abundant crops of maize, beans, and pumpkins, and with very large dry ing-places for the drying of pumpkins, for this kind lasts them afterwards all the year. When, two hours before sunset, we arrived at the rancheria and house of the captain, the captain of the neighboring Cutgana 433 nation came also to see us, with a great following of people from the north and from the west, and with various gifts, and in particular with many blue shells from the opposite coast of California, and from the other or South Sea, giving us very de tailed information in regard to them, and saying that they were not more than eight or ten days' journey to the westward, and that the Sea of California ended a day's journey farther to the south than where we were, 432 Ortega (Apostdlicos Afanes, 298) says, "house of the Quiquima cap tain." 433 Ortega says Cuteana (Apostdlicos Afanes, 298). 318 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. this very large volumed Rio Colorado and two others emptying at its head. I asked them also about every thing farther on, particularly toward the west and south, and by what way a road could be found to go at the proper time to trade with the other fathers and Spaniards of Loreto Concho, in twenty-six degrees lat itude, for, according to a fair estimate they could not now be more than one hundred and twenty-five leagues from these our districts where we were. The captain of these Quiquimas called for me and brought an Indian of the new Hogiopa434 nation, which is the one that comes next towards the south; and he having given us some account of his new people and of some stopping- places on the road which led to this presidio, I sent friendly messages to all those natives, saying that, God willing, on another occasion I should try to go also to those their lands. Besides, I sent them some messages in regard to Christian doctrine, and said that the purpose of our expeditions was the salvation of their souls, etc. And we left partially established some general peace- agreements among the Yumas, Pimas, Quiquimas, Cut ganes, Hogiopas, and other nations, in order that all in their time might be very friendly and good Christians. I slept in a little house which they had made me, and almost all night they kept talking among themselves in regard to their very earnest desire to embrace our friendship and our holy faith. 434 Ortega (Apostdlicos Afanes, 298) renders this Ojiopas. The Cocopa, one of the principal Yuman tribes on the lower Colorado. Kino is evidently the only one who calls them by this name, as it is not given in Hodge's synonymy (Handbook, vol. i, 318). In 1605 they lived in nine villages five leagues above the mouth of the Colorado, in Lower California. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 319 CHAPTER VI. HAVING SEEN THE LAND-PASSAGE TO CALIFORNIA, WE TURN BACK FOR NUESTRA SESORA DE LOS DOLORES. THEY GIVE US IN FANTS TO BAPTIZE, AND WE ARRIVE IN SAFETY AT SAN MARCELO November 22, 1701. Having left a variety of good advice for these natives, the Quiquimas and Cutganes, and a letter for the father rector, Juan Maria de Salva tierra, which the captain of the Quiquimas charged himself with carrying as much farther south as he could, I determined to turn back for my district of Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. First, so as not to be lacking in its administration. Secondly, because I was uneasy about the Spaniard who had turned back on the way. Thirdly, because now, thanks to our Lord, al ready this much disputed but now very certain land route to California had been discovered, for the sea did not ascend to this latitude of thirty-two degrees and its head ended ten leagues farther to the south and south west. We returned, then, through these many rancherias, and continuous pleasant champaigns of La Presenta- cion, for we gave them this name because of having dis covered them the day of the Presentation of our Lady. They gave me two very sick infants to baptize, one of whom was called Thyrso Gonzalez, and the other Fran cisco Xavier Eusebio. In all these pleasant and continuous rancherias there were all this morning many parties and dances, and songs and feasts, with a representation, or dialogue, and, as it were, a little comedy, by the very friendly na tives, to the great joy of all. In these festivities we spent all the morning, and I came as far as the river, which I crossed on the raft used the day before, the cap- 320 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. tain of the Quiquimas and the captain of the Cutganes with many other people towing it over. I came in time to say mass at our booth, as a thank-offering for so many celestial favors of our Lord, of most holy Mary, and of San Francisco Xavier. In the afternoon I re turned to San Feliz, with more than two hundred Pimas and Yumas; and although we all carried as many provisions as we could, so abundant were the maize and the beans and the pumpkins, dried and fresh, which the very friendly Quiquimas gave us, that the more than two hundred Pimas and Yumas could not load and carry it all. 23. On the twenty-third I arrived at the confluence of the rivers and at San Dionisio. 24, 25, and 26. On the twenty-fourth we arrived at San Pedro of the Yumas ; on the twenty-fifth at Agua Escondida; on the twenty-sixth at midday at the tank of La Luna,435 where all the afternoon we opened an im passable road through very sharp stones and rocks where animals had never been able to ascend to drink water, so that today all ascended to drink. And after wards, an hour before sunset and in the night, we trav elled five leagues more, so that the horses might have good pasturage. 435 Apparently modern Tinaja del Tule, but possibly Tinajas del Cerro de la Cabeza Prieta. The former are described and pictured by Lumholtz (op. tit, 237, 240), and the latter by the Boundary Commission as fol lows: "About one-fourth of a mile east of the summit of the Cerro de la Cabeza Prieta, in a deep, rocky canon, are a number of natural tanks, worn in the rocks and filled by the rains. These tanks when full contain about 5,000 gallons of water, all of which is seldom exhausted, by evaporation alone, before another rain fills them. These tanks are known as the 'Tinajas del Cerro de la Cabeza Prieta,' but were never much used by travelers, as they were off the road." Their place has been taken by the Tule Wells, dug after i860 in the Tule Mountains about six miles to the southeast. Report of the Boundary Commission (Washington, 1898), part ii, 25. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 321 27. On the twenty-seventh, having risen very early, after thirteen leagues of good road we arrived before midday in time to say mass, eat, and take a siesta at Carrizal, and in the afternoon, after eight leagues more, at San Marcelo del Sonoydag, where we found our re lay of horses, and the lost Spaniard, who confessed that he had turned back and fled from fear of so many new and unknown people, who had come to meet us among the Quiquimas, for he was afraid that, being so nu merous, they would do us some harm, but we attributed it all436 to the accustomed celestial favors of our Lord, who always shelters us better than all human forces, giving us always the paternal aid and encouragement of His very divine and most merciful power. 28. On the twenty-eighth we rested at San Marcelo. We killed fresh fat meat, sowed more wheat, besides what was sown for the Church, and in the little church of Nuestra Sefiora de Loreto we taught this afternoon the Christian doctrine and the prayers, as in the old Christian pueblos. 29. On the twenty-ninth when we wished to set out we found that some horses were missing and we stayed another day. 30. On the thirtieth, having left good messages and some little gifts for the Quiquimas, and having bap tized the governor of San Marcelo, who was sick, we set out almost at midday for San Rafael del Actun. DECEMBER i, 1701. On December first we arrived at the new well or tank which the natives had opened for us that it might afford sufficient water for the horses also; and on account of the mass of the glorious saint which I said here we named it Well of Santa Sabina. 2. On the second we arrived at San Estanislao del i3eI.e., our safety. 322 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. Ootcam. 3. On the third at San Ambrosio del Busanic. 4. On the fourth at the little ranch of Santa Bar bara. 5. On the fifth at the ranch of the new mission of San Simon y San Judas del Siboda. 6. On the sixth we rested. 7-8. On the seventh we arrived at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Remedios, and on the eighth at Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores. CHAPTER VII. ACCOUNTS OF THIS EXPEDITION ARE GIVEN TO VARIOUS PERSONS, IN PARTICU LAR TO THE FATHER VISITOR, ANTONIO LEAL, IN THE FOLLOWING LETTER I have just arrived in safety, thanks be to the Lord, from my peregrination or expedition by terra firma to California, and in going and return, in one month and five days, from November 3 to December 8, I have traveled four hundred-odd leagues. I reached a point thirty leagues distant from California, and crossed the Rio Grande de Hyla, and the very large Rio Colorado, or Rio del Norte, on a raft, at latitude thirty-two de grees. Through this expedition, thanks to His Divine Maj esty, and through other talks, or messages, and little gifts which I had sent them the year before, and on several other occasions, there remain reduced to our friendship and with the desire to receive our holy faith, the Quiquima, Cutgana, and other nations, with more than ten thousand souls, who have very rich and very fertile lands. They gave me great quantities of their provisions, and so much of their maize, beans, and pumpkins, that I could not use nor load it nor carry it with us, neither I and my servants nor the more than one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, SJ. 323 two hundred Pimas and Yumas who went with me to the said Quiquimas. From there I wrote to Father Rector Juan Maria de Salvatierra at Loreto Concho a letter which the same captain of the Quiquimas charged himself with carry ing farther inland toward the south. I bring with me not a few blue shells from the opposite coast of Cali fornia which these Quiquimas gave me, with the de tailed information that the said opposite coast and the sea of the south, by which the China ship is accustomed to come every year, is not more than seven or eight days' journey from the stopping-places or rancherias by which I went in this expedition. Therefore, by the Divine Grace, in His time the com merce of the said China ships with this kingdom of Nueva Biscaya may be opened, to avoid the very cir cuitous and costly transportation of the very many goods which it carries to Acapulco by sea and from Acapulco to Mexico, and from Mexico to this Nueva Biscaya and the provinces of Sonora and Cinaloa, etc., by land, mat ters concerning which, as the Sefior Marques de Buena Vista intimated to me in Mexico, there has been a dis cussion in the Royal Council. And at the same time, through this port which can be provided for the above mentioned galleon from China, the lives of many of its sailors who every year are accustomed to fall sick and die from the painful dis ease of scurvy can be saved, since with fresh food they are easily cured and freed from this evil, for the disease originates from dried and salty foods which are dried and salty and stale from their long voyage. To the above mentioned Quiquima nation succeeds the new Hogiopa nation. Now that some of them have come to see me, although they speak a different lan guage, through the Christian talks and messages which 324 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. I have sent on to them beforehand, with the favor of the Lord, on the next occasion I shall have the road and way to them wide open and, through them, very far in land, and toward Loreto Concho, where live Father Rector Juan Maria de Salvatierra, and the two other fathers with the sixteen soldiers, for I consider that I was not more than one hundred and twenty-five leagues, more or less, from their reverences. And as from these things might result the conversion and salvation of very many souls and important service to both majesties, I commend it all strongly to the holy sacrifices of your Reverence, whose life may our Lord preserve as I de sire. Nuestra Sefiora de Ios Dolores, December 8, 1701. Your Reverence's obedient servant, Eusebio Francisco Kino. chapter viii. letters from three father rectors in reply to the news in my let ters in regard to this my expedition The father rector, Adamo Gilg, on December fif teenth wrote me the following: I thank your Reverence for the very great pleasure which you gave me with the report and account of your apostolic journey and happy return Ex transitu Felici Maris Rubri. Felix omen pro Terra Promissiones Patrum Calif or niensium. Faxit Deus ut novus rex Hispania nostris conatibus faveatl 437 The wars so kindled in Europe on account of a handful of land will perhaps not allow much thought in regard to the progress of the faith. Thus far the father rector of this mission and rectorate of San Francisco Xavier, comparing this my expedition and journey and my having been able to cross the Rio Colorado and the Sea of California at its head to the 437 "From the successful passage of the Red Sea [we take] a happy omen for the promised land of the California fathers. May God grant that the new king of Spain will favor our endeavors." Philip V became King of Spain in 1700. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 325 crossing of the Red Sea, for some cosmographers have named this Sea of California the Red Sea. But extremely, and more than all others, with His ardent apostolic holy zeal for the good of souls, was Father Rector Juan Maria de Salvatierra rejoiced, with the other fathers of California, and the soldiers. Most gladly would his Reverence give this news to our Father General Thyrso Gonzalez, thanking me pro fusely for my labors, for he is pleased to call them "glorious," and encourages me, as always, to continue in so profitable an enterprise and so worthy of our holy Institute as the seeking of souls for Heaven and the conquering of the difficulties of the accustomed ob stacles, opposition, etc. Equally rejoiced at the news was the father rector of Oposura, Manual Gonzalez, for a little afterward his Reverence wrote me that he would be glad to go with me on another expedition, so that together we might go even further, and if it were possible, even to where the fathers of California were, in Loreto Concho. And we did make this expedition, which is related in the fol lowing book and year, 1702. General Jacinto de Fuenzaldana,438 the present cap tain for life of the flying company of this province, spoke of the very great joy which he had felt in hearing that so fortunately we had crossed over the very large and populous Rio Colorado, making it possible to aid at closer range the new conversions of California, and he offered to cooperate in discoveries so blessed, in so far as he should be needed.439 438 The passages forming the remainder of this chapter were originally placed in the previous Book ii, Chapter 12, page 302. On the margin of this paragraph in the original are the words "To be placed in entrada of November." 439 See footnote 420, which states that Kino had to go to the Colorado alone because of the change of commanders. 326 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA [Vol. General Juan Fernandes de la Fuente,440 captain of the Presidio of Janos and alcalde mayor of Casas Grandes, on the thirty-first of August wrote me the fol lowing: I thank your Reverence for the news of your peregrinations, made with the sole purpose of reducing to our holy faith and to the royal obedience so great a number of souls as you have discovered in your journeys so remote, and opening the light of the Gospel to so great a number of heathen, who hitherto were blind in their idolatries. And you alone have tried, with the Christian and Catholic zeal of an apostolic minister, in imita tion of San Francisco Xavier, to draw them with your ex emplary life and doctrine to the true knowledge. May God give you very perfect health and His Divine aid, that in all you may see your great work rewarded, and that you may easily succeed in coming to join in the Californias with our reverend fathers Juan Maria de Salvatierra and Francisco Maria Picolo, and all those poor people to whom the knowl edge that they can transport and trade by land with more security than by sea will be of great comfort, for this will be a great thing. And all will be due to your Reverence, who, I hope, will have from God and from his most holy Mother the assistance and rewards of glory and honor which your Lord ship so deserves. No one more than I desires for you all good fortune, and I wish I were nearer in order to serve your Reverence in what ever way might be in my power, for it is only my duty, from my great obligation. I have no doubt that opposition will be forthcoming, and that there will be many to oppose the good work of your Reverence, because the Devil is laying up against you that which he is losing, and must seek means to ruin your Reverence. In regard to the Pimas, I have noted much loy alty in them, and with time and good teaching they will be very perfect Christians and loyal vassals of his Majesty. And since they are steadfast in peace and friendship for us we may promise ourselves very good fortune and may hope that by means 440 Note in the original: "After expedition VI, of November." See page 302. one] EUSEBIO FRANCISCO KINO, S.J. 327 of them will be discovered many nations and lands of those which your Reverence has found. Thus far, with many other things besides, General Juan Fernandez de la Fuente. And now at the end of May, 1705, just when I am writing this chapter441 (finding myself with a thousand occupations, what with the construction of churches and with the coming of very many natives from the north and from the west and from the northwest from a distance of more than one hundred and seventy leagues, as I shall say in the proper place) I receive the following very zealous and very affectionate letter from the Sefior oidor and fiscal of his royal Majesty in the Royal Audiencia Of Guada lajara, Don Joseph de Miranda Villa Ysan, dated the thirty-first of March : May God our Lord bring reapers to aid in so abundant a harvest. The hopes that your Reverence may make a journey to Mexico have comforted me greatly. I imagine I see you there already, as on the former occasion, like a lightning- flash, quick and refulgent, but without destruction, although this you effect in the campaign against the Devil under the banners of his wretched heathendom, which God has just snatched from his claws in those provinces, for there is where we can say with David, on account of your Reverence, Ascen- siones in corde suo disposuit in loco ubi posuisti.*42 So I ex pressed it, when, seeing your Reverence in the character of first commissioner to California, I read it and saw you appoint ed champion and associate of my well beloved Father Juan Maria de Salvatierra for the undertaking.443 But God dis poses that you do not go from those provinces, perhaps because from there, without losing that renown, you are gaining souls 441 This was formerly in Book II, Chapter 12. See ante, page 302. 442 "In his heart he hath disposed to ascend by steps in the place where Thou has set him" (Psalm lxxxiii, 6, 7). Kino, quoting from memory, uses in loco ubi posuisti instead of the scriptural in loco quem posuit "in the place which he hath set." 443 The reference is to the appointment of Kino as companion of Salva tierra to go to California in 1697. 328 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA for California by means of the well-founded information in re gard to the route to it by land. Moreover, the first office of General Don Jasinto may have failed,444 perhaps, because God disposed that he be a co-worker with your Reverence in these newest conversions. Those who command in any of those parts will incline their operations and thoughts especially to this, and they would make easier the accomplishment of so high a purpose, because the truth of the legal maxim, Singula, qua non possent, collecta iuuant 445 would be seen divinely mani fested. But the pity is that the sower of darnel even in the rooted crops more frequently exemplifies the opposite maxim, Singuli qui non possent, collecti impediunt.iie Thus far the Sefior oidor fiscal of his royal Majesty, Don Joseph de Miranda y Villaysan. 444 The reference is to General Jacinto de Fuensaldafia. 445 "What individual things can not do separately united they help." For iuuant read modern juvant 446 "What individual men can not do, united they impede." BOOK IV. EXPEDITION OF TWO HUNDRED LEAGUES IN THE YEAR 1702, WITH THE VERY MINUTE NEW EXPLORATION OF THE VERY CERTAIN AND VERY EVI DENT PASSAGE BY LAND TO CALI FORNIA, WHICH IS SEEN TO BE NOT AN ISLAND, BUT A PENINSULA CHAPTER I. DOUBTS AND CONTROVERSIES WHICH FOR SO MANY YEARS HAVE EXISTED IN REGARD TO WHETHER CALIFORNIA IS CONTINEN TAL, OR TERRA FIRMA, CONTINUOUS , WITH THIS NEW SPAIN 44T 1702. Some of the ancient cosmographers, although with some imperfections, delineated California as a peninsula, or an isthmus, but after the English pirate and pilot, Francis Drake, sailed on these seas, and in the bay of San Bernabe, near the cape of San Lucas of Cal ifornia, robbed the China ship or the Philippines gal leon, called Santa Ana,448 he, seeing then the many cur rents of the Gulf of California, concluded and pro claimed as a certain thing that this Californian Gulf and sea had communication with the North Sea, and that by the former sea California was separated from all this terra firma of New Spain ; and he delineated it as sur rounded with seas and as an island (which would have been the greatest in the world), and he sketched, but also incorrectly, the rivers of Coral and El Tizon and 447 This chapter throws interesting light on the genesis of Kino's ideas regarding California geography. 448 Kino is mistaken here. It was Cavendish who plundered the Santa Ana. 330 MEMOIR OF PIMERIA ALTA Anguchi, or Buena Guia, as issuing and emptying into the said Sea of California at thirty-three, thirty-four, and thirty-five degrees of latitude, the fact being that, as with all certainty in various expeditions we have dis covered, this Californian Gulf does not come up to thirty-two degrees. Therefore Drake on his return to his country misled all Europe, and almost all the cos- mographers and geographers of Italy, Germany, and France, etc., delineated California as an island.449 In the celebrated University of Ingolstadt, of Ba varia, there was printed in my time a very finely execu ted general map of all the terrestrial world by my father master of mathematics, Father Adamo Aygent- ler,450 who afterwards died most gloriously in the voy age of Father Jutorchete 4" for the missions of the Great China, when already near Goa-in conspectu Goa,iS>t says the narrative. That map, which I brought with me to the Indies and even to these new conversions, with its little treatise and instruction or explanation, for it is cosmographical, geographical, horological and horographical, nautical and geometrical, etc., depicts California very correctly not as an island, but as a 449 For Drake's voyage see W. S. W. yaux, The World encompassed by Sir Francis Drake, being his next Voyage to that to Nombre de Dios (Lon don, 1854). As to Drake's theories, suffice it here to say that many views attributed to Drake were fables for which he was not responsible. See Ban croft, chapter on "The Northern Mystery," in his History of the Northwest Coast, vol. i, chap. 2. 450Aigenler, Adam, 1635-1673, praeses. Tabvla geographicohorologa uni versalis, problematis cosmographicis, astronomicis, geographicis, gnomonicis, geometricis illustrata, et vna cvm succincta methodo qvaslibet mappas geo- graphicas delineandi. Publico certamini proposita . . . Praeside Adamo Aigenler . . . defendente Joanne Francisco Stavdhamer . . . Ingol- stadii, typis Ionnis Ostermayri, 1668. 1 p. 1, 38, (32) p. fold, map, diagr. 18cm. Appended: "Tabula latitudinum et longitudinum nova avthore R. P. loan, Bapt. Ricciolio . . . lib. 9 Geographic Reformats c. 4." 451 Stocklein lists in his Rerum Memorabilium neither Aygentler nor Jutorchete. 462 "In sight of Goa." r 3,131 UsA :'M 'vMlmnnl »•• ^'«- WW***" Kini- Vccliif.T, rfc':^ ^ <-'W ^ 1£0& A.^'.-.V/l/cl. ~KT 3m Tgr hm: ~?7T A)ic.-icf7oL. f-^0fL Ofc<i pjand,. dtviwtfa j/\J09«"/ >¦ ¦; "s!^- y o o it9 AAoJjIitmx. ¦'d'A'biurto. ° 5- / o ¦ MBacJo ifctraior™ Jxpita arcorniiaa- S3 V \„ ?-¦ fo* r *zl\ ^>A /fef - jail C^ \r"^ /.- ; n^ ¦^r #7 tf. JW» 0 ^& Os Riji*:- o > - a U £#^ 9 • ,^&^^zA