: -Y^LIE'^JMir^JEI^SIIirY- Gift of MISS SARAH S. LANE 193 1 This book was digitized by Microsoft Corporation in cooperation with Yale University Library, 2008. You may not reproduce this digitized copy ofthe book for any purpose other than for scholarship, research, educational, or, in limited quantity, personal use. You may not distribute or provide access to this digitized copy (or modified or partial versions of it) for commercial purposes. 13 ON THE CHAMPS ^LYSEES. OLD AND NEW PARIS Its History, its People, and its Places BY H. SUTHERLAND EDWARDS AUTHOR OF "IDOLS OF THE FRENCH STAGE" " THE GERMANS IN FRANCE" "THE RUSSIANS AT HOME" ETC. ETC. Vol. II WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS CASSELL and COMPANY Limited LONDON PARIS & MELBOURNE 1894 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED bo34-.04-0 2. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGE STREET CHARACTERS. The " Cocher " — The Bus-driver — The Private Coachman — The' Hackney' Coachman — The Public Writer — The Flower-girl — The Oyster-woman . . i CHAPTER II. THE ENGLISH AND AMERICANS IN PARIS. The Englishman Abroad — M. Lemoinne's Analysis — The Englishwoman — Sunday in London and in Paris — Americans in Paris — The American Girl 9 CHAPTER III MORE PARISIAN TYPES. The Spy— Under Sartines and Berryer — Fouche — Delavau — The Present System — The I£cuyere — The Circus in Paris . .17 CHAPTER IV. THE DOMESTIC. The French Servant, as described by Leon Gozlan and by Mercier — The Cook and the Cordon Bleu — The Valet ... ..._.. ,20 CHAPTER V. PARISIAN CHARACTERISTICS. Parisian Characteristics — Gaiety, Flippancy Wit — A String of Favourite Anecdotes ... . . 24 CHAPTER VI. THE STREETS. The Arrangement of the Streets — System of Numbering the Houses — Street Nomenclature — Street Lamps — The Various Kinds of Vehicles in Use . . ... .28 CHAPTER VII.: THE SEINE AND ITS BRIDGES.— THE MORGUE. The Various Bridges over the Seine — Their Histories — The Morgue — Some Statistics . -33 CHAPTER VIII. THE REFORMATION IN PARIS. D'Hitaples, the Pioneer of the Reformation — Nicolas Cop and Calvin — Progress of the Reformation — Persecutions ' — Catharine de Medicis — St. Bartholomew's — The Edict pf Nantes. , 36 CHAPTER IX. THE UNIVERSITY OF PARIS AND THE COLLEGE OF FRANCE. The French Educational System — Lycees and Colleges — The University of Paris — The College of France 44 CHAPTER X. THE SORBONNE. Robert de Sorbonne — The Sorbonne, its Origin and History — Richelieu — The Revolution — The New Sorbonne — Mercier's Views . . 49 CHAPTER XI. THE INSTITUTE. The Institute — Its Unique Character — The Objects of its Projectors — Its Constitution 53 CHAPTER XII. THE ACADEMIE FRANCAISE. The Academie Francaise — Its Foundation by Richelieu — Its Constitution — The "Forty-first Chair." . ¦ , 55 iv CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIII. THE PANTHEON. page The Church of Clovis — The Church of Sainte-Genevieve — France in the Thirteenth Century — The Building of the New Church under Louis XV. — Mirabeau and the, Constituent Assembly — The Church of Sainte- Genevieve becomes the Pantheon. 59 CHAPTER XIV. THE POLYTECHNIC SCHOOL. The "Central School of Public Works" — Bonaparte and the Polytechnic — The College of Navarre — Formal Inauguration in 1805 — 1816 — 1830 67 CHAPTER XV. THE HOTEL CLUNY. The Rue des Carmes— Comte de Mun and the Catholic Workmen's Club — The Place Maubert — The Palais des Thermes— The Hotel Cluny— Its History— Its Art Treasures 71 CHAPTER XVI. THE MUSfiE D'ARTILLERIE. The Museum of Artillery — Its Origin and History — The Growth -of its Collection of Armour and Weapons of all Kinds 83 CHAPTER XVII. THE VAL DE GRACE— RELICS OF THE GREAT. The Deaf and Dumb Institution — The Val de Grace — Hearts as Relics — Royal Funerals— The Church of Saint-Denis . 89 CHAPTER XVHI. THE CATACOMBS: THE OBSERVATORY. Origin of the Catacombs — The Quarries of Mont Souris — The Observatory — Marshal Ney— The School of Medicine - 99 CHAPTER XIX. THE ODEON : THE LUXEMBURG PALACE. The Odeon — Its History — Erection of the Present Building in 1799 — Marie de Medicis and the Luxemburg Palace — The Judicial Annals of the Luxemburg — Trials of Fieschi and Louvel— Trial of Louis Napoleon — Trial of the Due de Praslin - : ...._'. 109 CHAPTER XX. THE PRISONS OF PARIS. La Sante— La Roquette — The Conciergerie— The Mazas — Sainte-Pelagie — Saint-Lazare — Prison -Regulations . 131 CHAPTER XXI. THE PARIS ZOO The Jardin des Plantes — Its Origin and History — Under Buffon — The Museum of Natural History — The Tobacco Factory 147 CHAPTER XXII. SOME HISTORICAL BUILDINGS. Abailard and Heloise — Fulbert's House in the Rue des Chantres — The Philip Augustus Towers— The Hotel Barbette— The Hotel de Sens . . . 156 CHAPTER XXIII. THE MONT-DE-PIETE. "Uncle" and "Aunt" — Organisation of the Mont-de-Piete— Its Various Branches — Its Warehouses and Sale-rooms . 160 CHAPTER XXIV. PARIS MARKETS. The Halles-Centrales — The Cattle Markets — Agriculture in France — The French Peasant .... 166 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXV. SAINT-GERMAIN-DES-PRES. page Its Origin and History — Its Library—Its Organ — Saint-Sulpice 170 CHAPTER XXVI. PRINTING IN PARIS— THE CENSORSHIP. Rue Visconti— Historical Buildings— The National School of Roads and Bridges— The Introduction of Printing into Paris — The First Printing Establishments— The Censorship ...... 174 CHAPTER XXVII. THE HOTEL DES INVALIDES. A Glance at its History— Louis XIV. and Mme. de Maintenon— The Pensioners— Their Characteristics and Mode of Life. ... . . .... 185 CHAPTER XXVIII. SOME MORE PARIS HOSPITALS. The French Hospital System — The Laennec Hospital — The Houses of Assistance — The Quinze- Vingts — Deaf and Dumb Institutions — The Abbe de l'Epee — La Charite 193, ¦..;..: CHAPTER XXIX. LUNATIC ASYLUMS AND. MIXED INSTITUTIONS. The Treatment of Lunacy in the Past — La Salpetriere — Bicetre— The Story of Latude — The Four Sergeants of La Rochelle — Pinel's Reforms— Charenton , .... 207 CHAPTER XXX. : THE RIVER BIEVRE AND THE MANUFACTORY OF THE GOBELINS. The Brothers Gobelin — Lebrun— The Gobelins under Louis XIV. — At the Time of the Revolution— The Manufactory of Sevres . . . . . . ... . 225 CHAPTER XXXI. THE PALAIS BOURBON. The Palais Bourbon — Its History — The National Convention — Philippe Egalite . . . 231 CHAPTER XXXII. SOME HISTORICAL RESIDENCES. The Palace of the Legion of Honour — The Ministry of War — The Rue de Grenelle — Talleyrand . 236 CHAPTER XXXIII. THE RUE TARANNE AND DIDEROT. Diderot's Early Life in Paris — His Love Affairs — Imprisonment in the Chateau de Vincennes— Diderot and " Catherine II. of Russia — His Death . • . • . 242 CHAPTER XXXIV. MONSEIGNEUR AFFRE AND THE INSURRECTION OF JUNE. The Courtyard of the Dragon — The National Workshops — The Insurrection of June — Monseigneur Affre Shot g.t the Barricade of the Faubourg St. Antoine . . . ,, 247 CHAPTER XXXV SOME OCCUPANTS OF MONTPARNASSE. The Boulevard Montparnasse — The Cemetery — Father Loriquet — Heg^sippe Moreau — Sainte-Beuve . 250 CHAPTER XXXVI. SPORTS AND DIVERSIONS. Le "Sport" — Longchamps — Versailles Races — Fontainebleau — The Seine — Swimming Baths — The Art of Book- collecting .... • 254 vi CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXXVII. FENCING SCHOOLS. PAGE Fencing in France — A National Art — Some Extracts from the Writings of M. Legouve, One of its Chief Exponents— The Old Style of Fencing and the New . . 257 CHAPTER XXXVIII. PETTY TRADES. Petty Trades— Their Origins— The Day-Banker— The Guardian Angel— The Old-Clothesman— The Claque^- Its First Beginning and Development . 259 CHAPTER XXXIX. OBSOLETE PARIS SHOPS. The Old Wooden Stalls of Forty Years Ago— The " Lucky Fork "—The Cobblers' Shops— The Old Cafes 265 CHAPTER XL. THE PARIS PRESS. French Governments and the Press — The Press under Napoleon — Some Account of the Leading Paris Papers —The Figaro . ... . . . 268 CHAPTER XLI. FROM THE QUAI VOLTAIRE TO THE PANTHEON. The Quai Voltaire — Its Changes of Name — Voltaire — His Life in Paris and Elsewhere — His Remains laid in the Pantheon — Mirabeau — Rousseau — Vincennes . . .... . 273 CHAPTER XLII. THE PALAIS MAZARIN AND THE RUE MAZARINE. The Institute or Palais Mazarin — The Rue Mazarine — L'lllustre Theatre — Moliere — The Theatre Francais — The Odeon — Heine — The Faubourg Saint-Germain — Historical Associations . . 288 CHAPTER XLIII. THE PARIS RIVER AND PARIS COMMERCE. The Society of the Water-Merchants of Paris — The Navigation of the Seine — The Paris Slaughter-Houses — Records of Famine in France — The Lot of the French Peasant in the Last Century — The Paris Food Supply . 307 CHAPTER XLIV. THE BARRIERS— PARISIAN CRIME. The Approaches to Paris — The French Railway System — The St. Germain Railway — The Erection of the Barriers — Some of the most famous Barriers — Parisian Crime — Its Special Characteristics . 317 CHAPTER XLV. PARISIAN MENDICANCY— THE PARIS POOR. Parisian Mendicancy in the Sixteenth Century — The General Hospital — Louis XV. and the Beggars — The Revolution — Mendicancy as a Regular Profession — The Organ-grinders and the Trade in Italian Children — The French Treatment of the Poor — Asylums, Almshouses, and Retreats — The Droit des Pauvres — The Cost of the Poor 3^4 CHAPTER XLVI. VERSAILLES. Derivation of the Name — Saint-Simon's Description — Louis XIV. — The Grand Fete of July, 1668 — Peter the Great and the Regent — Louis XV. — Marie Antoinette and the "Affair of tbe Necklace" — The Events of October, 1789 .... . . . 338 CHAPTER XL VII. VERSAILLES AND THE SIEGE OF PARIS. The Advance on Paris— Preparations for the Siege— General Trochu— The Francs-Tireurs— The Siege . . .348 CHAPTER XLVIII. VERSAILLES AND THE COMMUNE. The Communists or Communards — The "Internationale" — Bismarck and the National Guard— The Municipal Elections — The Insurrection — Thiers— Paris during the Commune— Concluding Remarks .... 355 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Frontispiece i 3 4 4 5 568 9 131617 2124 ¦ 25293132 333536 37 40 facing On the Champs Elysees . Outside a Railway Station in Paris . Waiting for a Fare Omnibus Coachman Private Coachman Hackney Coachman Hearse Coachman .... An Invitation to a " Petit Verre " Street Scene .... In the Avenue du Bois de Boulogne at Night In the Flower Market After the Theatre . . . At the Salon . , A Fair ... A Cafe Chantant Parisian Types — In the Barracks Parisian Types — In Search of Cigar-ends . A Paris Omnibus Street Scene Eastern End of lie de la Cite Austerlitz Bridge . . On the Saint-Martin Canal . - The Solferino Bridge, from the Quai d'Orsay The National Bridge ... The Right Arm of the Seine from Boulevard Henri IV 41 The College of France 44 The Lycee Voltaire -45 The Lycee Charlemagne 47 The Lycee Condorcet. 48 The Court of the Sorbonne 49 Facade of the New Sorbonne 51 The Church of the Sorbonne . . 52 The Dome of the Pantheon, Spire of St. Etienne du Mont, and Tour de Clovis . . 57 The Pantheon, from the Luxemburg Gardens 60 Place du Pantheon .... 61 Well in the Courtyard, Cluny Museum . facing 65 Interior of the Pantheon °5 Library of Sainte-Genevieve .68 St. Stephen-of-the-Mount ... .69 Interior of Church of St. Stephen-of-the-Mount 70 The Chapel of the Ancient College of the Lombards 72 Place Maubert, with the Statue of Etienne Dolet . 73 Patrons of the Chateau Rouge . - 75 Rue de Bi&vre - 75 Ruins of the Palais des Thermes . -76 Entrance to the Cluny Museum, Rue du Sammerard 77 Staircase, Cluny Museum . 80 Dormer Windows at the Cluny Museum : 81 Group of Shafted Weapons in the Artillery Museum 84 Decorated Spanish Cannon in the Artillery Museum 85 Decorated Muskets in the Artillery Museum . 85 The Deaf and Dumb Institution 89 Elm Tree in the Court of Honour at the Deaf and Dumb Institution 92 Statue Of the Abbe de l'Epee at the Deaf and Dumb Institution , ... 93 The Val de Grace from the Rue de la Sante 96 View from the Pont de la Concorde facing 97 Entrance to the Observatory 100 The Gardens of the Observatory, Boulevard Arago 10 1 Place de l'Observatoire . ... 104 School of Drawing, Rue l'Ecole de Medecine 105 Statue of Marshal Ney 105 School of Medicine ., . 107 New Wing of the School of Medicine 107 Hotel du Cheval Blanc . : 108 Rue de l'Odeon . . , 109 Rue de l'Ancienne Comedie 109 Odeon Theatre . in The Luxemburg Palace : the Garden Facade 112 The Luxemburg Palace from the Terrace . 112 The Senate Chamber . '. 113 Entrance Court, Luxemburg Palace . . ¦ TI5 Grand Avenue, Luxemburg Gardens 115 Sculpture Gallery, Luxemburg Palace 116 Salle des Fetes, Luxemburg Palace 117 The Central Fountain, Luxemburg Gardens . 119 Facade of the Ancient Chapel of the Daughters of Calvary, Luxemburg .... 120 Listening to the Band in the Luxemburg Gardens 121 The Marie de Medicis Grotto and Fountain " 124 Back of the Marie de Medicis Fountain . . 125 Fremiel-Carpeaux Fountain, Luxemburg Gardens 126 The Luxemburg Museum . . 128 The Hotel de Sens facing 129 The Mineralogical Museum 129 Prison of La Sante . 132 Inside the Walls of La Sante . . 132 The Common Quarter, La Sante — " The Parlour " 133 Interior of La Sante . 135 Gaolers' Mess-room, La Sante 136 Entrance to La Grande Roquette 137 Warders' Room and adjoining Courtyard, La Grande Roquette . 140 Chapel, La Grande Roquette 141 The Chapel-school, La Petite Roquette 143 The Political Quarter, Sainte-Pelagie 144 The Courtyard, Saint-Lazare 145 Buffon ......... 148 The Carnivora Section, Jardirl des Plantes 149 Entrance to Hothouses, Jardift des Plantes . 149 Marabout Storks in the Jardin des Plantes 151 The Polar Bear in the Jardin des Plantes . 151 The Bear-pit, Jardin des Plantes 152 Dromedary in the Jardin des Plantes . 153 Llama in the Jardin des Plantes . . 155 Rue des Chantres, looking towards Notre-Dame 156 Site of the House of Abailard and Heloise, Rue des Chantres . 157 Rue des Chantres, looking towards the Quai 158 Portion of the Facade, Musee Carnavalet . . 159 The Opera House . . facing 161 Entrance to the Mont-de-Piete, Chaussee d'Antin 161 The Jewellery Stores, Rue des Blancs Manteaux 163 Vlll LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. In the Rue de Capron Branch of the Mont-de-Piete 164 The Sale-room of the Mont-de-Piete, Rue des Blancs Manteaux ... . . 165 Rue de Tournon, with the Facade of the Senate House . 168 The Saint-Germain Market 169 The Tower of Saint-Germain-des-Pres 171 Saint-Germain-des-Pres . . 172 The Side Entrance to Saint-Germain-des-Pres . 173 The Rue de l'Abbaye . . 174 Saint-Sulpice and Apsis of Saint-Sulpice 176 Fountain, Place Saint-Sulpice 177 The Garden, School of Fine Arts . 180 The Arc de Gaillon, School of Fine Arts 181 Courtyard, School of Fine Arts . 181 A Facade on the Quai Malaquais 182 Street Scene . 184 Hotel des Invalides . 185 Dome of the Hotel des Invalides 186 Dormer Window on the Facade, Hotel des Invalides 187 The Court of Honour, Hotel des Invalides 187 Invalides . 188 Tomb of Napoleon 189 Entrance to the Tomb of Napoleon 191 Street Scene . 192 Latude recognises D'Aligre facing 193 The Laennec Hospital, Rue de Sevres 193 The Children's Hospital, Rue de Sevres 195 The Blind School : in the Work-room , 196 Attendants' Room in a Paris Hospital . 197 La Charite ... ... 198 Hospital on the Boulevard du Pont Royal 199 Entrance to the St. Louis Hospital 200 Courtyard of the St. Louis Hospital . 200 A Ward in the St. Louis Hospital . 201 The Repairing Room, St. Louis Hospital . . 201 The Tenon Hospital . 203 Nurse Pupils at the Maternity Hospital . 204 The Maternity Hospital . . 205 Font at the Maternity Hospital . 205 Hospital de la Pitie . 206 Facade of the Main Buildings, Salpetriere 208 The Mazarin Ward, Salpetriere . . 209 Place de Conseil, Salpetriere . 212 The Park, Salpetriere. . 213 The Village, Salpetriere . . 216 The Lunatics' Quarter, Salpetriere . .217 The Chapel, Salpetriere . . 220 The Bicetre, 1710 (After Gueroult) 221 Dinner-Time at Bicetre . . 224 Entrance to Bicetre 224 The Bievre . facing 225 Avenue des Gobelins . . . 226 The Bievre in the Gardens of the Gobelins 227 The Old Buildings of the Gobelins . . 228 In the Gardens of the Gobelins . . .228 Interior of the Gobelins 229 A Street in the Neighbourhood of the Gobelins 230 Facade of the Chamber of Deputies on Place du Palais Bourbon . 232 Chamber of Deputies from the Quai d'Orsay . 233 Ruins of the Palace of the Council of State, Quai d'Orsay . 237 Palace of the Legion of Honour 238 The Ministry of War 240 Fountain in the Rue de Grenelle 241 Grimm and Diderot . 244 Statue of Diderot, Boulevard St. -Germain, facing the Rue St .-Benoit 245 Entrance to the Courtyard of the Dragon . 248 Courtyard of the Dragon . 249 The Montparnasse Station - 253 Second-hand Bookstalls . . 256 The Bureau de Bienfaisance Asylum at Vincennes : (1) The Facade. (2) The Bowling Green facing 257 Old-Clothes Dealer . . . 260 Le Debarcadere des Bateaux-Omnibus : Vendors of Refreshments . 261 Snow Scene . 267 Bookstalls on the Quai Voltaire 268 Edmond About 272 The late Albert Wolff, of the Figaro . 273 Statue of Voltaire 277 The Pont du Carrousel and the Louvre, from the Quai Malaquais . 280 The Seine, between the City and the Quai des Augustines 281 Jean Jacques Rousseau 284 Madame D'Epinay . 285 A Night Refuge in the Vaugirard Quarter facing 289 Cardinal Mazarin 289 Entrance to the Hotel de Chateaubriand, in the Faubourg St. Germain 293 The Bridge, Place, and Boulevard St. Michel 296 The St. Michel Fountain 297 The Castle of Chambord . , 301 Porte aux Pommes : Fruit-boats on the Seine . 304 Porte aux Pommes . 305 The Villette A bbatoirs 309 A Seine Steamboat 312 The Seine at Grenelle . 313 The Chapelle Saint Denis Barrier . 317 The Octroi Barriers of Petit-Chateau and Grand- Bercy 320 Versailles : the Facade and the Great Fountain facing 321 335 Tram at the Barrier . ... Street Scene ... Asylum for Women, Rue Fess'art : The Refectory A " Bureau de Bienfaisance " . . A Night Refuge Pensioners of " L' Assistance Publique " Versailles' (from an old print) The Colonnade of Versailles .... The Gallery of Battles, Versailles General Trochu Map of the Fortifications at the Siege of Paris . The Prussians Entering Paris . . . .facin, Prince Bismarck ... ... M. Thiers Marshal MacMahon . ... 321 32432933233333634i344345 349352353355357 360 PARIS, OLD AND NEW. CHAPTER I. STREET CHARACTERS. The Cocher — The Bus-driver— The Private Coachman— The Hackney Coachman — The Public Writer— The Flower-girl- The Oyster-woman. A PARISIAN who is not rich enough to keep a distinguished chef of his own will occasionally order a dainty dinner to be for warded to him from some hotel or restaurant ; and in these cases the repast, as soon as it is ready, is sometimes put into a hackney cab and driven to the house of the consignee by the cocher, who is not unaccustomed to find this '"fare" more remunerative than the fare he habitually conveys. A glance at the cocher, as another of the Parisian types of character, may here be not inopportune. As- a matter of fact, however, the cocher is not one type but several. The name applies to the driver of the omnibus, of the fiacre, and ¦of the private carriage. As to the omnibus driver, he is more amiable, more easy-going, less sarcastic than his counterpart in London. Nobody would ever hear an omnibus driver in Paris say, as one has been heard to say in London, when a lady passenger requested to 25 be put down at 339^- Street, " Certainly, madam, and would you like me to drive up stairs ? " Nor is the Paris cabman so extor tionate as his London brother ; for the fare- regulations, by which there is one fixed charge for the conveyance of a passenger any distance within a certain radius, precludes the inevitable dispute which awaits the lady or gentleman who in our metropolis dares to take a four-wheeler or a hansom. Already in the sixteenth century hackney carriages were driven in the streets of Paris ; and any differences arising between the cocher and his passenger were at this period referred to the lieutenant of the police. The private coachmen, attached to the service of the nobility, found their position a somewhat perilous one in an age when quarrels were so frequent on the question of social precedence. If two aristo cratic carriages met in some narrow street, barring each other's way, the footmen would get PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [Street Characters. down and fight for a passage. Serious wounds were sometimes inflicted, and even the master would now and then step out of his vehicle and, with drawn sword, join in the affray. The coachman, meanwhile, prouder in livery than his master in braided coat, remained motionless on his box in spite of the blows which were being dealt around. It is related that when on one occasion a party of highwaymen attacked the carriage of Benserade, poet, wit, and dramatic author, his coachman sat calmly at his post, and amused himself with whistling whilst his master was being stripped of everything. From time to time he turned towards the robbers and said, "Gentlemen, shall you soon have finished, and can I continue my journey ? " The private coachman varied in those days, as he has always done, according to the position of the master or mistress whom he served ; and Mercier, writing at a later period, indicates a sufficient variety of cochers of this class. "You can clearly distinguish the coachman of a courtesan," he says, "from that of a president ; the coachman of a duke from that of a financier ; but, at the exit from the theatre, would you like to know where such and such a vehicle is going ? Listen to the order which the master gives to the lackey, or rather which the latter transmits to the coachman. In the Marais they say ' Au logis ' ; in the Isle of St Louis ' A la maison ' ; in the Faubourg Saint-Germain 'A l'hotel' ; and in the Faubourg Saint-Honore ' Allez ! ' With the grandeur of this last word no one can fail to be impressed. At the theatre door stands a thun dering personage with a voice like Stentor, who cries : ' The carriage of Monsieur le Marquis ! ' ' The carriage of Madame la Comtesse ! ' ' The carriage of M. le President ! ' His terrible voice resounds to the very interior of the taverns where the lackeys are drinking, and of the billiard rooms where the coachmen are quarrel ling and disputing. This voice quite drowns the confused sounds of men and horses. Lackeys and coachmen at this re-echoing signal abandon their pint-pots and their cues, and rush out to resume the reins and open the doors." The profession of the hackney coachman has always been and still is subjected to a special legislation. In Paris anyone exercising it must be at least eighteen years of age ; carry upon him the official documents in virtue of which he wields his whip ; present to his fare the card which indicates the number and tariff of the vehicle, and which the passenger must retain in view of possible disputes ; show politeness to the public ; receive his fare in advance when he is driving to theatres, balls, or fetes where there is likely to be a crush of vehicles ; never carry more than his legal number of passengers, and not smoke on duty. When travelling he must take the right side of the road, avoid intercepting funeral processions and bodies of troops, go at walking pace through the markets and in certain other specified places ; and, from nightfall, light up his vehicle with a couple of lamps. The lamps' used for the cabs of the Imperial Company are blue, yellow, red, or green. These different colours are intended to induce passengers leav ing the theatre at night to take, by preference, those vehicles which belong to the quarter in which they live ; blue indicating the regions of Popincourt and Belleville ; yellow those of Poissoniere - Montmartre ; red those of the Champs Elysees, Passy, and Batignolles • and green those of the Invalides and the Observatory. Besides the penalties pronounced by the penal code for causing death or personal injury through careless driving, minor infractions ofthe regulations are punished, by the prefect of police, with suspension of licence or, in certain cases, final withdrawal. The proprietors and masters are responsible for any offences committed by the coachmen, and for any loss or injury to luggage or other goods confided to their vehicles for transport. The law which prescribes to Paris cabmen one uniform fare for journeys of no matter what length within a certain radius would at first appear to be very much to the advantage of the public, who are thus protected from extortion. It has a great drawback, all the same. In London a cab man is always delighted to see a gentleman step into his vehicle, even though the welcome he evinces be rather that of the spider to the fly. He unhesitatingly drives him to his destination, and the gentleman, even though he is fleeced at the end of the journey, at least gets where he wished to go. But the Paris cabman is fastidious. If the destination mentioned by the intending passenger does not exactly suit him, he is prone to shake his head, ply his whip, and drive away with an empty vehicle. The alacrity and enthusiasm of the London cabman are due to the fact that when he has his passenger safely inside the hansom or " growler " his soul is animated by the hope of obtaining a fare indefinitely in excess of the legal tariff. The uniformity of fares in Paris deprives the cabman of any enthusiastic interest in his work, as it likewise strips him of some of the curious and Street Characters.] THE PARIS CABMAN. amusing characteristics which he might other wise exhibit. % In our own metropolis a famous millionaire, having ridden one day in a cab for the distance of a mile and a half, tendered the driver a shilling in payment of his fare. The driver stared at the daily paper, but an unhappy scribe whose task it was to put into epistolary form such matter as was entrusted to him for the purpose by illiterate cabmen, workmen, and servant girls. The little booths with desks in front where he exercised his strange profession have disappeared as Paris has WAITING FOR A FARE. coin in the palm of his hand and then proceeded to remonstrate. " Both your sons, sir," he said, " whenever they ride in my hansom, pay me at least half-a-crown." " I dare say they do," replied the millionaire, "for they have an old fool of a father to back them up." In Paris, where this millionaire had a brother as rich as himself, such an incident would have been impossible. Another figure of the Paris streets is, or rather until some twenty-five years ago was, the Public Writer ; not the contributor to an important been demolished and rebuilt. The spread of education among the lower classes was really his death-blow. The public writer was usually an old man, sometimes one of erudition, who had been reduced by severe reverses or persistent misery to a very low position. He wrote a beautiful hand, and could on occasion compose a poem. He could execute a piece of penmanship in so many different handwritings (seventeen or eighteen), and his flourishes and ornamentations were so magnificent, that he would never have prostituted his pen to the service of shopgirls PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [Street Characters. and domestics had not starvation stared him in the face. Moreover, the cultivation of an acquaintanceship with the Muses solaced him, and caused him to forget the day of his greatness when, holding the diploma of a "master-writer/' OMNIBUS COACHMAN. he inscribed the Ten Commandments or executed a dedication to the king on a bit of vellum smaller than a crown piece. He could dash off verses at a moment's notice, and had always in reserve a varied assortment of festive songs, wedding - lines, epitaphs, and simple and double acrostics, to serve whatever occasion might arise. Above the Public Writer's door, which he threw open every morning to his clients, this legend was inscribed : — " The Tomb of Secrets." The passer-by thus learned that there — in the words of a French chronicler — " behind those four coarsely-whitened windows of the entrance door, was an ear and a hand which held the key of human infirmities ; that there, smiling and serviceable, Discretion resided in flesh and blood. Curious to see everything, you approached ; a few specimens of petitions to the Chief of the State, drawn up on official paper and sealed with wafers, gave you a foretaste of the master's dex terity. Moreover you could read, in a position well exposed to view, some piece of poetic inscrip tion, deficient in neither rhyme nor even reason, and cleverly calculated to allure you forthwith. The running hand, the round hand, the English hand, and the Gothic hand alternated freely in the ingenious composition, not to mention the flourishings with which the lines ended, the page encased in ornamented spirals, the capitals complicated with arabesques, and so forth. One day we read one of the writings peculiar to this profession, and copied it with a haste which we do not regret to-day when the booth where we saw it has been removed. This booth, a mere plank box, three feet square, whence issued during forty years an incalculable number of letters, petitions, and other documents, was situated in the quarter of Saint -Victor, at the foot of the Rue des Fosses, Saint-Bernard. Its occupant was a man named Etienne Larroque, an old bailiff whom misfortune had reduced to this poor PRIVATE COACHMAN. trade. Nearly eighty years of age, this Nestor of public writers was known to everybody." To the pedestrian his signboard proclaimed the particulars of his profession in a piece of poetry which might at all events have been Street Characters,] THE PUBLIC WRITER. much worse, and of which the metre was marred only by one fault — a certain line with a foot too much. Dressed in a frock coat maltreated •by years, the writer, continues the before-men tioned chronicler, sat in his office, with his spectacles on his nose, and all his pens cut before him. He placed himself eagerly at the service of anyone who crossed the threshold. Sometimes the strangest revelations were confided to him. Installed in his cane arm-chair, furnished with a cushion which he had sat upon till it was crushed to a pancake, he lent a grave ear to the pretty little rosy mouths that came to tell him everything, as though he were a confessor or a physician, and took up his pen to write for them their letters of love or complaint. More than one unhappy girl came to him to sigh and weep and to accuse the monster who had sworn to wed her ; more than one fireman came to confess to him the flame which was burning in his breast ; HACKNEY COACHMAN. »more than one soldier to request him to pen a challenge. As the depository of secrets innumerable, the Public Writer was a most important personage ; or would have been had he been able to take full literary advantage ofthe confidences entrusted to him. Richardson's knowledge ofthe female heart is said to have been due to the good faith with which he inspired a number of young ladies, who there upon gave him, unconsciously, material for such HEARSE COACHMAN characters as Pamela and Clarissa Harlowe. They consulted him now and then about their love letters. But the Public Writer had love letters, letters of reproach, letters of explanation, letters of farewell, to write every day, and by the dozen. It is not recorded, however, that an}' Public Writer was sufficiently inspired, or suffi ciently interested in his habitual work to turn the dramatic materials which must often have come beneath him into novels or plays. The personage known as the Public Writer was at least a more useful institution than the book entitled " The Complete Letter-Writer," the func tion of which is to supply correspondence in regard to every possible incident in life. The Public Writer was, if up to his work, capable of suiting his language to peculiar cases, whereas the Complete Letter -Writer was an oracle whose utterances came forth hard and fast, in such a way that the ignorant devotees could not change PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [Street Characters. them. Thus the illiterate persons who could not read at all had a clear advantage over those whose education enabled them to read the Com plete Letter- Writer, but not to apply it. In an excellent farce by M. Varin, one of the best comic dramatists of the French stage, an amusing admiration for locks of gold such as belong in profusion, not to the girl, but to her buxom mother. When the husband's jealousy is ex cited and a variety of comic incidents have resulted therefrom, it appears that the unlettered and moreover foolish young clerk has copied ^•n-V.j*,,.,-,. AN INVITATION TO A.-" PETIT VERRE.' equivoque — or quiproquo as the French say — is caused by an ignorant young man in some house of business addressing a love letter to the dark- haired daughter of his employer, which expresses his epistle out of a letter-book, and, thinking apparently that one love letter would do as well as another, has addressed to a girl with dark hair a declaration intended by the author of the Street Characters.] THE OYSTER-WOMAN. Complete Letter-Writer for a woman who is beautifully blonde. No such mistake as this could have occurred had the amorous young clerk told his case to a Public Writer, and ordered an appropriate letter for the occasion. Another interesting type of street character in Paris is the bouquetiere or flower-girl. She is more enterprising and engaging than her counter part in London. She will approach a gentleman who happens to be walking past and stick a flower in his button-hole, leaving it to his own sense of chivalry whether he pays her anything or not. Nor does the device infrequently pro duce a piece of silver. There is generally one flower-girl in Paris who poses as a celebrity — either on account of her beauty or of other quali ties of a more indefinable character. Fashionable Parisians resort to her stall and pay fantastic prices for whatever bloom she pins to their breast. The flower-girl of the Jockey Club, who used to attend the races and ply her trade in the enclosure of the grand stand, expected a louis as her ordinary fee. The oyster -woman, too, is a highly im portant personage. Paris consumes three hun dred million oysters a year, and the dis pensing of these bivalves keeps the lady in question sufficiently active whilst the season lasts. At breakfast-time or dinner-time, with a white napkin thrust in her girdle, a knife in her hand, and a smile on her lips, she is to be seen stationed at the entrance to restaurants in antici pation of the waiter rushing out and shouting : " One dozen," " Two dozen," or " Ten dozen — open ! " A police ordinance of September 25th, 177 1, forbade oyster -women to exercise their trade between the last day of April and the 10th of September, under penalty of a fine of 200 francs and the confiscation of their stock. This ordin ance was destined to fall into disuse ; but inas much as the prohibited months are those in which oysters are at their worst, the ecailPeres of Paris do in fact to-day suspend their trade during May, June, July, and August — months which they devote to the sale of sugared barley-water and other cooling beverages. In Paris a sempstress is supposed to be " gen- tille," a lingere, or getter-up of linen, " aimable" a flower-girl "pretty." The oyster-woman, although not characterised by any one particu lar quality, is credited with a combination of qualities in a more or less modified degree. Without being in her first youth, she is young ; without being in the bloom of beauty, she does not lack personal charm ; and frequently she invests even the opening of oysters with a grace which may well excite admiration. La belle ecaillere is indeed the name traditionally applied to her. With the origin of this name a tragic story is associated. There was once a charmingly pretty oyster-girl named Louise Leroux, known us La belle ecaillere. She had a lover named Montreuil, a fireman, who, in a moment of frantic jealousy, plunged his sword into her breast. This horrible crime at once rendered " the beautiful oyster-girl " famous, not only in Paris, but throughout Europe ; and in due time the legend of her life and love took dramatic form, and found its way to the stage. The interest excited in her unhappy end was all the greater inasmuch as her murderer had eluded justice by flying to England, where, in London, he set up as a fencing master. The Gaiete Theatre achieved, in 1837, one of its greatest successes by putting on the boards, under the title of La Belle Ecaillere, the tragic history of Louise Leroux. Since then the name has been familiarly applied without discrimination to the female oyster-sellers of Paris, many of whom have well deserved it. Ejut, while bearing the name, they have aban doned the traditional fireman, as rather too dan gerous a commodity. In lieu of firemen they have captivated notaries, financiers, and others in superior stations of life ; whilst one is known to have turned the head of a state minister, who, even if he did not marry her, confessed the passion with which she inspired him by devouring thirty-two dozen of her oysters every morning before breakfast. The flame within him had first been excited by the siren's ready wit. As he was entering a restaurant one day, a friend who accompanied him remarked: "To-day, my dear sir, more than ever, France dances on a volcano." " What nonsense ! " cried the ecaillere ; " she dances on a heap of oysters ! " Next day the exclamation was reported in a Paris journal, which easily turned it to political account. There was another oyster-girl who solved a question of lexicographic definition which had hopelessly baffled the Academicians. A new^ edition of the Dictionnaire de I'Academie was being prepared, and it became necessary to estab lish the distinction of meaning between the two expressions de suite and tout de suite. The forty Academicians were all at variance about it, and were about to tear their hair, when one of them, Nepomucene Lemercier, exclaimed : " Let us go and dine at Ramponneau's. That's better than disputing. We can discuss the matter during s PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [Street Characters. dessert." "Agreed," replied another member — Xodier. The Academicians forthwith set out, and when they had arrived at their destination one of them, Parseval-Grandmaison, who ordered the dinner, said to the ecaillere : " Open forty dozen oysters for us de suite, and serve them tout de suite.'' " But, sir," replied the oyster-woman, " if I open them de suite, I cannot serve them tout de suite." The Academicians looked at each other in astonishment. The problem had been solved. They had now discovered that of the two expres sions tout de suite indicated the greater celerity. ".; ^^- THE AVENUE DU BOIS DE BOULOGNE, AT NIGHT. CHAPTER II. THE ENGLISH AND AMERICANS IN PARIS. The Englishman Abroad — M. Lemoinne's Analysis — The English woman-Sunday in London and in Paris-Americans in Pans- The American Girl. HITHERTO the types of character which we have noticed have been native. Let us vary them by a glance at the typical foreigner or rather foreigners residing or sojourning in Paris. To begin with the Englishman. In Paris, . although there are a great number of Eng lishmen, it can hardly be said that an English Society exists. Samuel Johnson once com plained that Englishmen did not fraternise with one another ; that if two visitors called upon a lady about the same time and were ' shown into her drawing-room, they would, until the lady made her appearance — say for five minutes— simply glare at one other in silence, whereas a couple of foreigners would, although they had never met before, have entered into a conversation. Without, perhaps, being aware of John son's stricture on the social frigidity of his own countrymen, an excellent French writer, John Lemoinne, has noticed the same insular peculiarity in English visitors to Paris. "The English," he says, "do not seek one another's acquaintance ; they do not come into other lands to find themselves. If they easily form acquaintanceship with foreigners, they are more fastidious in approaching each other. An Englishman will make friends with a Frenchman without the ceremony of presenta tion, I mean of introduction, but never with another Englishman. A couple of Englishmen stare at each other very hard before saying, ' How do you do?'" Punch many years ago noticed this national characteristic in a picture which represented two English visitors to Paris breakfasting at the same table in the Hotel Meurice, and, although the IO PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The English and only guests in the room, solemnly ignoring each other's existence. But M. Lemoinne goes further than Punch. "If the English leave their native land," he says, " it is not to find their own compatriots ; it is to see' new men and new things. Even when you understand their language, they prefer to talk to you in their bad French. The thing is intelligible enough : they wish to learn, and have no desire to teach. You are regarded simply as a boojc and a grammar. The foreigner must be turned to some account." So far excellent. But let us return to Samuel Johnson. When he visited Paris did he air his " bad ' French " ? No, he absolutely refused to speak a word of anything .but English. This by no means confirms M. Lemoinne's proposition. Yet in fairness, let it be said, Johnson's chief objection to talking French in Paris was a fear lest he should " put his foot in it," and, lexico grapher as he was, excite by some grammatical blunder the ridicule of irreverent Parisians. Let us see, however, to what lengths M. Lemoinne is prepared to go. " If there was ever a people who have the sentiment of nationality, it is," he says, " the English. They are impreg nated, petrified with it ; the thing is fatiguing and offensive. But in order to affirm and manifest this sentiment the English have no need to group them selves, to form themselves into a society. An Englishman is to himself England alone ; he carries his nation in him, with him, on him ; he does not require to be several. Everywhere he is at home : the atmosphere is his kingdom and the ambient air his property. Religion enters largely into this temperament. The Englishman carries not only his nation, but his religion with him ; he scours the whole earth with his Bible for com panion : the Frenchman, habitually catholic, requires a bell and a priest — he does not know how to converse directly with Heaven. From a social point of view, moreover, the English find France freer, more liberal, more open than their own country. English society, at home, is regu lated like music-paper ; it has a severe hierarchy, in which the most idiotic little lord stands before a man of genius without a title. Geo graphically, it is a very narrow space which separ ates England from France ; but this space is a gulf. The two countries are in constant relationship ; but they never arrive at any resemblance to each other. We have not the political liberty of the English, and they have not our social equality. An Englishman could not live with laws like those which, in France, regulate the right of speaking, the right of writing, the right of petitioning, the right of assembling, the right of going and coming ; but a Frenchman would be stifled amidst those thousand conventional bonds which form English society. The influence of convention in England is such that it equals and even surpasses the tyranny of the political and administrative laws of the Continent,, That is why the Englishman, after a stay of some time, and when the ice of his nature is a little melted, moves amongst foreigners as freely as he moves at home. No possible comparison can be made between the Frenchman in London and the Englishman in Paris ; or at all events the com parison can only be an antithesis. The French man who pays a visit to England will, so soon as presented, be welcomed with a boundless hospitality, provided his visit is only a flying one; but if he apparently wishes to take root, the soil refuses, and society shuts itself up and retires as though a descent were being made upon its territory. It must be confessed, moreover, that France is not usually represented in England by the cream or flower of her population ; and for a simple reason, namely, that a Frenchman does not go to England for pleasure or from choice, and that he has no idea but that of returning as quickly as possible. But apart, even, from these particular circumstances, the mere pressure of the English social atmosphere suffices to asphyx iate a Frenchman. It is a world, an order of ideas, an assemblage of laws and customs entirely different from all others. "A Parisian may for years walk round English society as he would walk round the wall of China, without being able to find either a door or a window. He understands absolutely nothing about it. " In France, on the contrary, Englishmen find a greater social liberty. French society is an open society ; French manners are cosmopolitan manners. The most diverse peoples can in France find their place without losing their national character. In our country everyone is at home, and the Englishman gets on comfortably enough. In the Englishman, however, it is necessary to distinguish between the citizen and the indi vidual ; for he is both. When the national interests or passions are in question he does not scruple to intrigue and conspire ; when he is unconcerned with the politics of the country where he happens to find himself, he practises the greatest reserve and mixes in nothing. See the English at Paris. They assist at all our revolutions as mere spectators ; their sole care is Americans in Payis M. LEMOINNE'S ANALYSIS. ii to get a good seat. They always come to their ambassador to request a presentation at the Tuileries and tickets for the court ball." So far we have presented the observations of M. Lemoinne for what they may be worth. That his skilful pen, however, penetrates some times into the regions of truth is shown by the fact that his remarks not infrequently recall those of foreign writers so famous as to be regarded more or less as oracular. Heine, after visiting London, complained that at an English dinner party the gentlemen, after the ladies had retired from the dining-room, remained at table for an hour or two to saturate themselves with port. Heine, it must be remembered, took a perverse delight in satirising everything English. But that we, in England, do leave the ladies to drink their after-dinner coffee in the desolation of the drawing-room must be hand somely admitted. M. Lemoinne notices this peculiarity. " The time has passed," he says — with burlesque drollery — ¦" when the true Englishman remained at table for several hours after dinner and ended by slumbering beneath it. Now, when the ladies have quitted the dining-room, the gentle men content themselves with circulating the Bordeaux for twenty minutes. In France we are beginning to divest ourselves of certain prejudices concerning the English. For a long time we regarded the English character as synonymous with ' spleen.' It was an old French author who said of the English : ' They amuse themselves sadly, after the custom of their country.' " The fact is the English are gay in their own fashion, and sometimes even expansive and noisy ; but they are not gay with everybody, nor on a first acquaintance. They must unfreeze ; they are like the wine of Bordeaux, which, to give forth its fragrance, has to be warmed." After this, however, a very dubious compli ment is paid to our. compatriots. " It is certain that this race is robuster than others, the women as well as the men. It spends more, consumes more, and absorbs more. . See how well these pretty white and red-complexioned Englishwomen can take their sherry and their champagne ! Observe them in the middle ofthe day going to ex ercise their palate at the pastry-cook's with coffee, chocolate, ices, all kinds of cakes and sandwiches ; you are staggered at the quantity of these delicacies they can put out of sight. See them at the buffets of all those official fetes of which they form the finest ornament. It is a pleasure to see them, especially when you know that their appe tite is not destructive of sentiment.^' Now, how ever, for a. compliment which is absolutely sincere. " We venture to say that English society in Paris has exercised a salutary influence on French society, and that it has introduced cor diality into intimate relationships. The hand shake of the English lady, for instance, has long shocked, and still shocks our purists. Their fault is that they believe an amiable woman must be too accessible, and that a certain liberty of manners implies an equal liberty of conduct. With such ideas as these they bring up daughters who, having given the tips of their fingers, imagine that they have given everything and have no longer anything to protect ; whereas a pretty little English, girl who gives her hand gives nothing else, and knows how to defend the rest." Another trait of the English character is, we are assured, an " interest in religious questions." English ladies are "all more or less theologians — veritable doctors in petticoats. English girls will hold forth to you on the subject of grace and free will. You will meet them at church, listening to sermons and going through services, and even taking notes. But what does that matter, since it does not prevent them from serving out the tea admirably, from rearing their children later on, and from being model housewives and model mothers ? If our Frenchwomen cry ' Fie ' upon the blue stocking, that is perhaps because it is too green ; a little theology would not hurt them. It is at church that you get the most comprehensive view of English society in Paris. On Sunday you have only to visit the Faubourg St. -Honore towards two o'clock ; you will encounter quite a procession of English men and women coming from the Rue d'Agnesseau, with their prayer-books and their Sunday demeanour. I say the church, but I ought to say the churches ; for the English have nowadays in Paris almost as many chapels as religions. There is the Embassy chapel for Anglicans of the established religion, an English episcopal chapel in the Rue Bayard, another English chapel in the Rue Royale, a Scotch Presbyterian chapel and two English Methodist places of worship in the Rue Roquepine, inde pendently of American chapels. This is not to say that the English observe Sunday in Paris as strictly as they are obliged to do in their own country. Respect for the Sabbath is an observ ance which they know very well how to dis pense with amongst foreigners. On Sunday, 12 PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The English and from time to time, you see some individual in black attire, and invariably adorned with an umbrella, who, seated on one of the seats in a public garden, pretends to ignore a little pamphlet which is intended to be picked up by the first pedestrian who passes, and which turns out to be a dissertation on the observance ofthe Sabbath. There are still, perhaps, a few hotels specially designed for English people, where the Bible Society causes to be placed in every bedroom a copy of the Scriptures bearing its own stamp. This ardour of propagandism has begun, how ever, to abate, and the English in general are by no means the last to take advantage of the Paris Sunday. Anyone who has seen the Sabbath of London must feel the difference. Every Frenchman who has just missed dying, not only of ennui, but of hunger and thirst, during the hours of service in England — hearing his footsteps resound in the desolate streets — will understand the solace experienced by an Englishman on finding that the coast is clear for him at Paris and Versailles. There are, it is true, a certain number of English families who do not receive on Saturday evening because the festivity or the dancing might encroach upon the Sabbath ; but what is a sin on English territory is not so on French territory, and the English do not scruple to pass midnight in a Parisian drawing-room." This drolly severe but, from a literary point of view, admirable writer seems to think that an Englishman is a sort of fox-terrier, or mastiff, which having been chained up for a length of time becomes, when you let him loose, extremely rampant and ill-conducted. "There are so many things the English would not do at home, that they do without scruple amongst foreigners. Once abroad they indemnify themselves for their national reserve ; it is on the foreigner that they revenge themselves for the shackles of their own etiquette and social laws. In crossing the Channel they pitch their solemn vestments into the sea. In London they will not go to the opera dressed in anything but black ; here they go in a tweed coat and a slouch hat." After this Monsieur Lemoinne seems very much upset by the mous taches which Englishmen display as they pro menade in the Boulevards. There was a time, he assures us, when a Frenchman crossing the Channel and wishing to have a fashionable air was obliged to sacrifice his moustache— a time when English caricaturists never represented a Frenchman without a pair of long, ill-combed moustaches. To-day the thing is reversed. Itisthe Englishman who wears this grotesque appendage which proclaims his nationality from afar. Thus moustached, the Englishman goes to Paris — so M. Lemoinne evidently thinks — to have his full fling. " Amongst us," he says, " a grave man may occasionally dress up to go to a ball, wear fancy costume, or take part in a quadrille, and next morning resume his function as state coun cillor or referendary. So the Englishman precipi tates himself into the French world as into a great masked ball, puts on a false nose, dances at Paris extravagant steps which he calls French dances, cuts capers, sups and gets maudlin, and when he has finished his French tour, tranquilly resumes his duties as member of parliament or no matter what." To English ladies M. Lemoinne is a good deal more gallant. He is obliged to point out that they over-dress and stride along the Boule vards like dismounted dragoons. "Yet, make no mistake," he adds. " In that still crude block there are all the elements of a superb work of art. What fine construction, what solid layers, what grand architecture ! Wait till arthas put her hand to these materials ; wait till the English woman has learned how to walk, carry herself, and dress, and until, to her native beauty, she has added acquired grace — then you will have the finest type of creation and of civilisation. The native Englishwoman who has become a natural ised Parisian is perfection." In spite of the modified tribute which this writer pays to Englishwomen, it may be said that he has handled our nation very roughly. In the present day England and France would no longer, in a European war, fight side by side as they did in the Crimea ; and a little unconscious Anglo phobia tinctures the writings even of such a skilful and impartial essayist as M. Lemoinne. The Americans in Paris are regarded, by French writers generally, from a much more favourable point of view. Let us, in the first place, hear what M. Andre Leo has to say on this subject. " If you walk through the Champs Elysees, from the Place de la Concorde to the Arc de l'Etoile, or through the avenues which converge there, from the direction of the Madeleine, in the Quartier St. -Honore towards the Pare Monceaux, you will frequently meet women richly adorned, men with light-coloured beards, tranquil and placid ; young women of lively and decided mien, pretty children with curly hair, whose physiog nomy is at once full of candour and of assurance. All these individuals, isolated or grouped, offer you pretty nearly the same type ; a countenance which is strong in comparison with the small, : Americans in Paris.] AMERICAN ARTISTS. 13 piercing grey eyes, and flexible features, often agreeable, and sometimes beautiful. ... All nationalities, indeed, meet and knock against each other in this new quarter with its fine avenues and its sylvan groves. But there is an evident predominance of English and American language and customs, as appears from the signs over the chemists' shops, the stores, the boarding-houses, and the special pastry-cooks, protests that "such a criticism passed upon a new people, who have been obliged to occupy them selves before everything with work and industry, is too hasty. American artists already exist ; and already their efforts and their ambitions foretell the development of that noble and precious human faculty the germ of which exists in every people and every man, but which necessitates a certain leisure and a certain mental education." IN THE FLOWER MARKET. where cakes, pies, and puddings are displayed in the window. Yet although in this region a unity of language and conformity of habits unite the English and the Americans, the two societies intermix very little. Anglophobia, as a national and popular sentiment, is perhaps more ardent in the United States than amongst us." In a general way the resident American popu lation of Paris consists of the Diplomatic body, bankers, families who have come for the education of their children, and artists eager to study the masterpieces of the Parisian galleries. The American nation is accused of being devoid of artistic sentiment ; but M. Andre" Leo stoutly Apart from the American residing in Paris, and the American who, binding himself to the nation by more than lengthened residence, has married into some French family — an occurrence by no means rare — there is the flying American visitor to Paris, whose headquarters are the Grand Hotel on the Boulevard des Italiens. This establish ment, by its central position, its interior arrange ments, its luxury and its comfort, enjoys an enormous reputation on the other side of the Atlantic. The Yankee leaves New York for the Grand Hotel. It is not till he passes its threshold that he feels himself on terra firma again ; it is here that he finds out where he is and gets his 14 PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The English and information. If his means or his projects permit it, he installs himself at this hotel for three or four months ; if not, he goes on to some other hotel or boarding-house, or else rents an apart ment to live by himself. If you enter the court yard of the Grand Hotel, ascend the portico steps, and, making your way into the stately reading- room, look out of the window for five minutes, you will see that the innumerable vehicles which every few seconds stop at the hotel deposit ten Americans to one Englishman. From this centre the tourist easily gets to all those points of the city to which necessity or curiosity impels him. The first visit he pays is probably to his banker — to Bowles and Devritt, perhaps, in the Rue de ia Paix, or to Norton's in the Rue Auber. Once he banked with the firm of Rothschild, but now no longer. During the American war M. de Rothschild's attitude in reference to the planters was by no means neutral, and this political indiscretion has cost him his American clients. When the New York party has cashed its cheque at the American bank — which is quite a rendezvous for trans- Atlantics and at which all the American newspapers can be seen — the feminine element hastens to visit all the most fashionable shops. The ladies are eager to purchase, at comparatively low prices, those Parisian costumes which their own native custom - house raises to prices so exorbitant. Dressed ere long in the richest and newest fashions, they step with their male companions into a carriage and drive to the Bois de Boulogne ; then they go to the opera, to spectacles of every kind, and to the Legation. If there happens to be a sovereign on the throne, they put their names down for presentation at the Tuileries and order a court costume. For it must be confessed that the Americans are fond of the pomps of this world, and that, Republicans as they profess to be, they have no prejudice against kings and princes outside their own country. The monarchs of other nations neither shock nor terrify them. And the American tourist, apart from the question of political sentiment, likes to see everything and do every thing before he recrosses the Atlantic. If an American family visits a land where it is the fashion to be presented at court, they will feel humiliated and ashamed should they have to confess afterwards to their compatriots that they missed the presentation. Under the last Empire the American visitors to Paris showed an eagerness for court-presenta tions which would have entitled them to a place in Thackeray's Book of Snobs — which, neverthe less, directly or indirectly, embraces pretty nearly the whole human species. But there were a certain number of Americans then in France who got acclimatised to the splendours of the court and became habitual guests at imperial residences. The drawing-room of the United States minister is naturally the centre of meeting for American society in Paris. " The aspect and tone of these assemblies," says a French writer, "is at once less solemn and colder than our French social gatherings. The necessity of being previously presented exists in this democratic society just as it does in England, though on the other hand American conversation and behaviour bear a natural impress of indiffer ence and freedom, not even to the exclusion, perhaps, of a little coarseness." Curiously enough, the Americans, although they despise or affect to despise social and genea logical distinctions in their own country, turn to some extent into aristocrats during the voyage across the Atlantic to Europe. Frenchmen have noticed that if you wish to be presented to their minister or at one of their drawing-rooms in Paris, you must never forget your ancestry, "A certain author of my acquaintance," says Andre Leo, " a man of genuine fame, was sufficiently astonished, on reading his American letter of introduction, to find that it recommended him much less on his own account than on that of his grandfather. This is not an isolated case ; it results from a law much more human than national, which consists in particularly prizing what one does not possess. The Americans, a people without ancestors, naturally hold race distinctions in high esteem. They boast, one against the other, of belonging to the first founders of the colonies, and even in their own country these pretensions sometimes provoke laughter. . . . As to nobilary titles, if you possess any, be particularly careful to let them be known, and rest assured that when once they have been declared the Americans will not fail to apply them to you. These titles will win for you sweet glances, and should you be contemplating marriage will turn the scale in your favour with those blonde beauties who, for the most part, have Californian dowries ; for these Republican young women think that a ducal coronet .sits marvellously well on blonde hair, and that the title of Countess is the finishing ornament required by an elegant lady. Hence it is that at Paris numerous alliances are contracted Americans in Paris.] THE AMERICAN WOMAN. '5 between the France of other days and the America of to-day." In the United States, so soon as a merchant has done some great stroke of business, or has pierced a big vein of ore in his mine, or has seen the petroleum spouting up on his land too fast for an adequate supply of barrels, his daughters are consumed with a desire to visit Europe. They sail thither, accompanied by the father, who pretends to despise the Continent, but who, inwardly, is scarcely less curious to explore it than his fair-haired children. And as a matter of fact the Americans may well be desirous to see that region of the world whence they derive everything but their liberty and their wealth. For their religion, their language, their literature, their arts and sciences, their memories, and the very blood which courses in their veins, they are indebted to Europe. In America, although an enormous number of books and newspapers are published, the English and French classics, not to mention the best English and French modern authors, form the foundation of every good library, and even the native writers fashion themselves after European models. As regards the American families residing in Paris for the education of their children, it is music and the French language which they have chiefly in view. Some years ago M. Andre Leo' observed that young American girls in Paris received a much severer education than their brothers. The instruction of the daughters " is, or appears, very complex ; that of the sons much less so, for as a rule, having their own fortune to make, they early precipitate themselves into commercial life. But the young girl; whether intended for an instructress or working merely for the development and adornment of her person, devotes herself to studies which amongst us would pass for pedantic. Some of them learn Latin, algebra, geometry, and even attack without alarm more special sciences. Yet look at them and be reassured. The care of their toilette has not suffered from all this, and the accusations of ungracefulness cast against learned women fall before the display of their luxurious frivolity, See if the waves of silk, of muslin, of lace, which surround them are less abundant on that account ; if the details of their exterior show a lesser degree of feminine art, if the whole has a lesser freshness." This writer proceeds to insist on the superiority of the American woman over her male compatriot. The explanation is, according to him, that at fourteen years of age the A.merican boy shuts up his books to enter the office of his father or some other merchant, and consecrates his whole intelli gence to commercial speculations ; whereas the young girl pursues her studies, strengthens them sometimes by teaching, and, spinster or wife, has always abundant leisure for mental exercise. The one point on which, in M. Andre's view, the studious American woman exposes herself to reproach, is that hitherto she has not used her intellectual superiority for the furtherance of her own dignity and independence. That she is nevertheless a powerful social factor, M. Andre himself admits, though he attributes this less to her activity than to her fascinations as a beauty in repose. " The first duty and the first pride of an American husband is," he says, " to ensure the idleness of his wife and provide for the expenses of her toilette. There are in the United States many women- workers, whether as preceptresses or clerks in the postal, telegraphic, or even ministerial offices. These are nearly all spinsters — the single state being frequent in New England, which vies with the Mother Country for the supremacy of the feminine population — and they give in their resignation when they get married. " I will not let my wife work," such is the husband's proud determination. Here, however, one imperative reason why women must resign their employment on marriage is overlooked. In London the numberless women engaged in the post and telegraph offices are required by the authorities to abdicate their posts on becoming wives, simply because they would obviously be unable to work their nine hours a day at a desk or counter if they had absorbing domestic duties to attend to and children to rear. To Englishmen, who are already acquainted with their Transatlantic brethren, a French view of the American in Paris would be more instructive than an English one. What particu larly strikes Parisians is the freedom of American girls as contrasted with the restraint of unmarried young women in France, whose training is noto riously very much that of a convent. " American manners," the French observe, "grant to girls entire liberty. They are the guardians of their own virtue and their own interests, and they pre serve these things right well. Instructed in , the dangers of life, they are capable of braving them ; though it must be owned that their task is easy on account of the respect which, throughout their country, is shown to them by men. A girl can travel the length and breadth of the i6 PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The English and Americans in Paris. territory of the Union without having to fear dishonourable pursuits or the slightest unpleasant - AFTER THE THEATRE. ness. Therefore the American girl utterly differs from ours by her aspect alone." Her costume is more unstudied, and the mouse-like timidity of the young Frenchwoman is replaced in her by a graceful carelessness. To Americans, as M. Andre justly says, Paris must seem " a world upside down. American mothers complain greatly of the little security and re spect shown to women in this capital, of the gallantry of the French and the indulgence of public opinion in flag rant cases. They are right ; " and he thinks that it is because French girls are too severely disciplined, too much caged up, that there is less reverence between the two sexes in France than in America. " True chastity," he maintains, " has liberty for . her sister." American girls staying, in Paris are astonished and indignant at the close surveillance to which unmarried young Frenchwomen are subjected, although they themselves frequently sacrifice to opinion in the matter of not appearing out of doors unaccompanied by a maid. M. Andre regrets this on account of the countenance it gives to a prudish system, which he is the last to admire in his own countrywomen. " O young ladies," he exclaims, " born on a soil where monarchical influences have never flourished, why do you submit to this shameful spy system ? Would it not be better if you openly showed your disdain for it, and taught our women the manners of liberty ? Paris, after all, is not a forest, and a mere glance, a shrug of the shoulders, or silence itself, will suffice to shame away a leering lounger or an im pertinent snob. Is it true, then, that in default of other forms - of tyranny, respect for opinion, what ever that opinion be, is a yoke in ¦ America? " Let us hope, in conclusion, that the American girl does not " let her self go," on her return from strait- laced Paris to the freedom of New York, at all events to such an extent as suggested by this writer, who assures us that, having once set foot again on native soil, she flirts furiously. AT THE SALON. CHAPTER III. MORE PARISIAN TYPES. The Spy — Under Sartines and Berryer — Fouche— Delavau — The Present System— The £cuyere— The Circus in Paris. TO return, however, to native Parisian types. Mention has already been made of the French spy, but he is such an important and historical character that it is impossible to dismiss him in a few words. The police, already strongly organised under Louis XIV., resorted largely to espionage ; but in Louis XV. 's reign the famous Lieutenant of Police, de Sartines, fashioned the spy system into a civil institution, and gave it a prodigious de velopment. Spies were now employed to follow the Court or to watch the doings of distinguished foreigners who had recently arrived in the capital. Then there were domestic spies, the most terrible of all, to judge by the following observations extracted from a report attributed to Louis XV. 's lieutenant. " The ' family,' amongst us, lives 26 under the protection of a reputation for virtue which cannot impose on the magistracy ; the family is a repertory of crimes, an arsenal of infamies. The hypocrisy of the false caresses which are lavished in it must be apparent to all but fools. In a family of twenty persons the police ought to place forty spies." After Sartines, Lieutenant Berryer by no means allowed the spy service to deteriorate. He employed convicts as spies, one of the conditions of their employ ment being that on the slightest failure in the vile duties they had to perform, they should be restored to prison. The services, too, of coach men, landladies, lodgers, were called into requisi tion. Even domestic servants were sometimes Berryer's agents, and many a mysterious lettre- de-cachet was issued on the strength of some PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [More Parisian Types. word uttered carelessly within the hearing of a lady's-maid or valet -de-chambre. Stories are even told of men so innocent that they acted as spies without being aware of it. Such a one was Michel-Perrin, of Mme. de Bawr's tale, which, in its dramatic form, gave Bouffe one of his best parts. The simple-minded man had in his youth, when he was a student of theology, known Fouche, afterwards to become Napoleon's Minister of Police. In due time Michel-Perrin took orders, and was doing duty in a little village when, under the Revolution, public worship was abolished. Calling upon Fouche to ask his old friend for some suitable employment, he can obtain nothing until, moved by the urgency of his solicitations, the Police Minister suggests to him, with so much delicacy that his true meaning remains unperceived, that he shall walk about the public places, go into cafes and restaurants, and frequent all kinds of resorts where people congregate, and that he shall then return to Fouche with an account of anything remarkable he may have seen or heard. This seems to the delighted Michel-Perrin mere child's play, and he regards it as little more than a pretext on the part of the generous minister for handing him every evening a gold piece. When, however, the unconscious spy -finds one day that he has revealed a political conspiracy, and jeopardised the lives of many, perhaps innocent men, he suddenly awakens to a sense of what he has been doing, and in horror throws up his em ployment. Fouche, it seems, was pained to have humiliated the unoffending priest, and, public worship being just at that time restored, he used his influence with Napoleon to obtain the in genuous man's re-appointment as village cure. Under the Revolution the spy was replaced by the official denunciator, an agent no less formid able. At length came the Empire, and then Fouche" invested espionage with the importance of a science. In 1812 the "brigade of safety" appeared, which was first composed of four agents, but which, in 1823 and 1824, always under the direction of the famous Vidocq, numbered close upon thirty. Delavau, the prefect of police, had permitted him to establish, on the public road, a game known as " troll-madam " ; and this game, an excellent trap for boobies and passers-by whose slightest words and actions were keenly watched by Vidocq's hounds, produced, from the 20th of July to the 4th of August, 1823, a net profit of 4,364 francs. This sum was added to the sub vention already granted to the spy department. The Prefect Delavau returned to the method of Lieutenant Berryer in employing as spies con victs, whom he threw back into prison for the slightest fault. One of his predecessors, Baron Pasquier, had endeavoured, like Berryer, to enlist domestic servants into the secret police force ; and, with this object, Delavau renewed an old ordinance, calling upon them to get their names noted in the books of the prefecture every time they entered a situation or left one. The domestics, however, perceived the motive of Delavau's measure, and were so unanimous in withholding their names from the books in question, that all idea of family espionage, on which much value had been set, was soon to be abandoned. Delavau drew even more largely upon the criminal class for his myrmidons than Pasquier had done, and in his day no public gathering took place at which some felon, re leased for the purpose from gaol, was not lurking about for an ill-sounding word or a suspicious gesture. Such agents as these worked with the industry of bloodhounds. " Between the popu lace and the subalterns of the police," says the historian Peuchet, " there is a continual war '; the latter are ill-bred dogs who seize every opportunity for applying their fangs. The police will never inspire respect for order so long as part of its force consists of released gaol-birds who owe a grudge to the whole of the people. When these two elements are in contact there is inevitably a fermentation." The justice of these remarks was recognised by M. Delavau's successor, M. de Belleyme, whose first care was to dismiss and even restore to their respective prisons this army of felon -spies. To-day, although he has not risen much in public estimation, the spy of the police-force is a citizen in every sense of the word, enjoying all the rights of a Frenchman, and not obtaining his commission from the prefecture until after his past life and his moral character have stood the test of a keen investigation. Thus espionage has been purified as far as that is possible ; but whether the system is not in itself essentially im moral, is a question which has exercised the minds even of such writers as Montesquieu. " Espionage," he says, " is never tolerable ; if it were so it would be practised by honest men ; but the necessary infamy of the person indicates the infamy of the thing." This is in effect another version of the famous utterance of Argenson, who, reproached with employing as spies none but rogues and villains, exclaimed : '' Find me honest men who will do this work." The present prefecture of police believes it has found such men, and the More Parisian Types,] THE ECUYERE. T9 discovery, if it has really been made, is a fortu nate one indeed. Another variety of police spy to be met with in Paris is the officious volunteer spy. He may belong to the lower or to the higher ranks of society. He takes upon himself to observe and to denounce, without instructions, and solely in the hope of a pecuniary recompense. This variety is probably the most contemptible and the vilest. It should be mentioned, too, that the French capital swarms with invisible and un recognisable spies, disguised, as they some times are, beneath an appearance of luxury or magnificence. This or that personage passes for a member( of the diplomatic service. He is an ad mired figure in fashionable drawing-rooms, and while affecting to converse on the European situation, exercises the ear of a fox terrier and the eye of a hawk. Then, of course, there is the military spy, who is superior to the civil variety inasmuch as whilst the latter, in case of recogni tion, only incurs a more or less disagreeable misadventure, the former is liable to be shot. The military spy, therefore, may have all the heroism of the professed soldier. The civil spy system was naturally developed to an extraordinary degree by the subtle Riche lieu. His secret agent took as many shapes as Proteus. Now it was a brave old seigneur, infirm and professedly deaf, in whose presence people would not hesitate to speak out and say every thing, but who recovered his vigour and his legs in order to go and report to the cardinal a conversation of which he had not missed one detail. Now it was a woman, who, having insinuated herself into the intimate friendship of some young and brilliant courtier, wrested from him a dangerous and terrible secret. But it was not only throughout the length and breadth of France that Richelieu had spies ; numbers of them were in his pay abroad, all over the Conti nent indeed, regularly reporting political in trigues, and furnishing clandestine copies of secret treaties. Enough, however, of the spy ; let it simply be added that he has been introduced into two novels by Balzac, into one by Hugo, and into two by Alexandre Dumas, who has likewise made him figure in a couple of plays. Let us pass from the most slinking and distasteful Paris character to the most open and, as many consider, the most charming one — from the " espion," that is to say, to the " ecuyere." At Paris the circus-woman is the object of a much higher admiration than in London. Theophile Gautier, in his dramatic feuilletons, has frequently shown that he preferred the equestrian fairy of the circus to the sylph who dances at the opera. He goes into ecstasies over her agility, vigour, and courage, and is displeased with nothing but the drapery in which her lower limbs are enveloped, holding that, just as the most virtuous fashionable woman or actress takes care to exhibit her bare arms if they are beautiful, so the " ecuyere " of the circus should be allowed to display the full symmetry and grace of her legs. The " ecuyere " whom Balzac brings on the scene in his Fausse Maitresse, Malaga by name, is an excellent type of the French circus- woman, who is nearly always without relatives, sometimes a foundling, sometimes a stolen child, and who, coming one knows not whence, goes, the idol of a day, one knows not where. " At the fair," says the greatest of French novelists — or rather, one of his characters — " this delicious Columbine used to carry chairs on the tip of her nose — the prettiest little Greek nose I ever saw. Malaga, madame, is skill personified. Of Herculean strength, she only requires her tiny fist or diminutive foot to rid herself of three or four men. She is, in fact, the goddess of gymnastics. Careless as a gipsy, she says every thing that enters her head ; she thinks as much of the future as you do of the halfpence you throw to beggars, and sometimes sublime things escape from her. No one could ever persuade her that an old diplomatist is a beautiful youth ; a million could not change her opinion. Her love is, for whoever inspires it, a perpetual flat tery. Endowed as she is with really insolent health, her teeth .are thirty-two exquisite pearls encased in coral." The performances ofthe Paris circus-woman too closely resemble those of her sister in London to need description. The characters, however, of the two equestrians are not identical, and that of the ecuyere can scarcely be represented better than in the words of a vivacious French writer, who says : " You can easily imagine what must be, not the future (alas ! has she one ?), but the present of this poor, intrepid, careless creature. After being exposed twenty times a day to the risk of breaking her jaw, she has hardly earned her food ; and every morning she has to wash, stretch, and otherwise renovate the costume in which she is to dazzle her spectators at night . i . . Some of these circus-women marry a Hercules or a professional fool ; at the third or fourth child Mme. Hercules or Mme. Fool takes her 20 PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The Domestic. mare by the head, kisses her on the nose, and bids a weeping adieu to the brave, affectionate beast, the only friend who has never beaten her. It is done : the whole family — husband, wife and children, go forth to try their luck as strolling players. Their theatre is the fair in summer and the street in winter. Hercules will lift, at arm's length, enormous weights, and the children will form the living column, or dance on the rope, while the mother, as short -skirted as ever, but now plump enough to burst her vestments, will contribute some kind of music or exhort the outside public to enter the show." She frequently fills up her intervals with fortune-telling ; informs young women whether they will be married the same year, and whether the visionary swain is fair or dark ; lets married men know if their wives are faithful, and wives if their husbands are engaged in amours. Nurse-maids learn from her that in the mounted gendarmerie or the cuirassiers there is a hero of six-feet -six, only awaiting an opportunity of declaring his passion. This, however, is a sketch of the more fortunate of the strolling circus artists. Occasionally the husband breaks a limb, or kills himself in at tempting some daring feat ; in that case his family is often reduced to beggary or something worse. CHAPTER IV. THE DOMESTIC. The French Servant, as described by Leon Gozlan and by Mercier — The Ccok and the Cordon Bleu — The Valet. IT has already been seen that domestics have at different periods been employed in Paris as spies. — According to Leon Gozlan, writing of his own period, " the police of Paris is almost entirely occupied with the misdeeds of domestics. Nearly all domestics are thieves or spies, and they get more so as they grow older. The most honest amongst them steals at least ten sous a day from his master." It is to be hoped that if they steal in this amusingly regular fashion, they at least observe the kind of morality which has been noticed in some of the inferior state officials of Russia. One of these complained that a col league of his was dishonest and helped himself to things which belonged to the State. "But you do the same thing yourself," suggested a friend. "True," was the reply; "but this fellow steals too much for his place." Let us, however, turning from drollery and from Leon Gozlan — who can hardly have been quite serious — glance at the household servant of Paris as a factor in the Parisian community. The French domestic, whether valet, lackey, or lady's-maid, is more important and influential than the domestic of England. It is true that occasionally in an English house some servant practically rules the family, and that the relation ship between employer and employed becomes so reversed that the mistress is afraid to ring her drawing-room bell. As a rule, however, in England the domestic is a nonentity. The man-servant or maid-servant who waits at an English table is absolutely ignored, and is not even supposed to understand the conversation which accompanies dinner, nor to laugh at jokes indulged in by the host or his guests. An English servant nowadays who shook with laughter at what he overheard in the dining- room, like black Sambo at Mr. Sedley's, would be cautioned if not cashiered. The French domestic is a personage and a power. The " trade of lackey," according to Fabrice, in " Gil Bias," requires a man of superior intellect. The true lackey " does not go through his duties like a ninny ; he enters a house to command rather than to serve. He begins by studying his master : he notes his defects, gains his confidence, and ultimately leads him by the nose If a master has vices, the superior genius who waits upon him flatters them, and often indeed turns them to his own advantage." Awaiting the day when he shall himself be great, the liveried aspirant takes the name of his master when he is with other lackeys, adopts his manners and apes his gestures ; he carries a gold watch and wears lace ; he is impertinent and foppish. " Bon chien se forme sur maitre," says the French proverb, and the Parisian domestic religiously takes after his master, even though, as far as intrinsic resemblance •MX-' ^: 1 22 PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The Domestic. goes, he might simply be an ape in his master's clothes. That vanity characterises French servants is undeniable. Against the charge of cupidity, however, which is brought against them, even by French writers, must be set off one or two famous instances in which valets have supported their ruined masters for ten or twenty years out of their own savings. Mercier, all the same, repre sents the Paris domestic as hardly less a rogue than does Leon Gozlan. " Out of ten servants," he assures us, " four are thieves." Another native writer, while not undertaking to combat this proposition, finds a defence for the accused domestics. " If they are thus, who," he asks, " has perverted them ? Who, either by example or complicity, has made them thieves and spies ? Every year is committed, to the pre judice of the country and of agriculture, an abominable crime, namely, the stealing of individuals, strong and useful, snatched at once from the sunlight and from simplicity of manners, to be degraded, and sullied with a livery ; to have imposed upon them their master's vices and follies, and to be turned into idlers and good- for-nothings, flatterers and procurers." Paul Louis Courier looked forward to the time when domestic servitude would be replaced by household service rendered freely, as if in virtue of a contract between man and man ; and in Paris, as in other capitals, this state of things seems to be fast approaching, not as the result of any benignant feeling on the part of the rich towards the poor, but because, with the spread of education and of democratic ideas, a disin clination to remain constantly at the orders of another person is gradually extending. Already servants demand a greater number of holidays than in ancient times ; and there are many who, like the London charwoman and the "laundress" of the Inns of Court, are ready to give their services during the day-time, and even until a late hour in the evening, while reserving to themselves the right of returning, after their labours, to their own domicile. There is much to be said, no doubt, on the other side. If there are masters and mistresses without consideration for their servants, there are servants who, having kind masters and mistresses, show themselves without gratitude. But we are dealing specially with French servants, who, apart from all question of good conduct or bad, enjoy certain privileges not formally recognised, as lawfully belonging to servants in England. The bonne, for instance, or the cook, who goes to market to purchase provisions considers herself entitled to " make the handle of the basket dance" — "fair danser l'anse du panier " — to appropriate, that is to say, a portion of the things she has bought, or of the money she has nomin ally spent, to her own uses. In like manner the house-porter, or " concierge," takes for himself, as a matter of course, so many logs out of every basket of wood ordered by the different tenants, of whom there are often some half-dozen in the same house. In France, as in other countries, a valet will sometimes wear his master's clothes, and the Parisian lady's-maid asserts and enforces, more perhaps than in any other capital, her claims to her mistress's cast-off apparel. The cook — both the " cuisinier " and the " cuisiniere " — has already been dealt with in a special chapter. It may here, however, be remarked, that though the best cooks, and certainly the most expensive ones, are in France, as in other countries, men, the female cook is far indeed from being held in disesteem. The " cordon bleu," or blue ribbon, was a distinction conferred upon the female, not upon the male cook ; and a woman who cooks particularly well is called to this day a " cordon bleu." Such a woman was in the service for many years of the well-known " bourgeois de Paris," as Dr. Ve'ron loved to describe himself. If every French servant looks for some particular perquisite, they all expect a gratuity at the New Year. One of the greatest curses and greatest blessings which rest upon Paris is the custom of presenting New Year's gifts. The word " etrenne " is at once a- terror and a joy to Parisians, according as they belong to the class who give or the class who receive. In London no gentleman would venture to omit at Christ mas-time to "tip " any one of the underlings who had ever cleaned his boots, lifted his portmanteau, or twisted the ends of his moustache. But in Paris, if a gentleman failed at the new year to present '' etrennes " to his boot -black, his messenger, or his valet, derision and infamy would, according to a French writer, pursue him, not merely throughout this life, but even beyond the tomb. Cardinal Dubois, who had a reputation for niggardliness, used to give his servants their "etrennes" in a manner which they could hardly have relished. His major-domo came to him one New Year's Day to demand the annual gratuity. " Etrennes ! " exclaimed the cardinal ; " yes, I will give you your etrennes. You may keep everything you have stolen from me during the last twelvemonth." The Domestic] THE PARIS VALET. 23 Let us, before quitting the subject of the Parisian domestic, relate an anecdote or two. "When I come home," said a master to his servant, " I often find you asleep." " That, sir," replied the man, " is because I don't like to remain doing nothing." A nobleman paid a visit to Fontenelle one day, and found him in a very bad humour. " What is the matter with you ? " he asked. ¦"The matter?" replied Fontenelle; "I have a valet who serves me as badly as if I had twenty." t The Abbe de Voisenon preserved his gay humour to his very last gasp. Just before his death he caused the leaden coffin which he had ordered beforehand to be brought to his bedside. "There," said he, " is my last overcoat." Then, turning towards one of his servants of whom he had had reason to complain, he added, " I hope you will not wish to steal that too." A certain high official of Paris lived in the country, and, thanks to railway facilities, went home every evening to dine. On one occasion he arrived earlier than usual, and going into his kitchen found the cook in a decidedly unequivo cal position, with a bottle in his hand, three- fourths of whose contents had already found their way into his stomach. " Ah, my fine fellow," exclaimed the master, " I have caught you drinking my wine." "It is your own fault, sir," was the reply. " You were not due till four o'clock, and it is now hardly three." Our gallery of Paris types would scarcely be complete without a sketch of a very familiar personage who, though not peculiar to Paris, abounds there more than in other capitals. This is the "rentier," the man of "small, independent means." According to the etymology of the ¦word, anyone should be called a rentier who lives on his " rentes " — the income, that is to say, derived from the letting of houses or farms ; or the interest of money invested in the Funds. In practice, however, the name is given exclusively to the man who lives on the interest of money which he has invested in government securities. He has been described as the corresponding type, in English society, to the man retired from business. He lives modestly in the quarter of the Marais or of the Batignolles, as in England he might live at Clapham or Brixton, at Holloway, or Camden Town ; and he passes a considerable portion of his time in some favourite cafe, reading a news paper of moderate-liberal politics, or playing at dominoes. Condemned to economy, some times of the most parsimonious kind, he counts every lump of sugar brought to him by the waiter, and shows a great predilection for halfpenny rolls. In politics, without being an aristocrat, he is something of a conservative ; and, while stickling for his rights, hates revolu tions as sure to cause perturbations in the securities of the state. It was doubtless a rentier from whose pocket the thief in Lord Lytton's "Pelham " extracted, in a Paris cafe, a tiny packet which he had seen the owner put carefully away in his coat-tail pocket, and which, on being adroitly stolen and curiously examined, was found to contain, not a precious stone, but a lump of sugar. In the rentier's defence it may be mentioned that during the great Napoleonic war, when a universal blockade had been declared against English exports, and when colonial produce was everywhere excluded from the ports of France, the price of sugar rose to such a height as to render this luxury difficult for persons of straitened means to indulge in. The existence of such a number of rentiers in Paris goes far to demonstrate the prudence of the ordinary Frenchman. An Englishman with a few thousand pounds in his possession would, as a rule, speculate with it, instead of burying it in the Funds. The speculation would furnish him with active employment, whereas the permanent investment preferred by the average Frenchman involves an idle and somewhat ignoble life. CHAPTER V. PARISIAN CHARACTERISTICS. Parisian Characteristics— Gaiety, Flippancy, Wit— A Siring of Favourite Anecdotes. IN our last few chapters we have been glancing about Paris for different types of character. These are sufficiently varied even where they are not absolutely dissimilar from each other. But there is one characteristic which runs through the whole of them ; the Parisian, be he great or small, rich or poor, never loses his national gaiety. He laughs through his tears and some times jests with his last breath. This gaiety finds expression in manifold ways, and shows itself above all in innumerable anec dotes. If, as Dr. Johnson maintained, the dullest book is worth wading through if only it contains a couple of good anecdotes, no apology need be made for presenting in this chapter a few of those " bonnes histoires " in which Parisians delight, and which so often illustrate their character. Let us begin with one which is very French and particularly Parisian. A poverty-stricken author, awaking suddenly at midnight, discerned in his garret a burglar feeling in his empty cash- box. The author burst into a laugh. The burglar, annoyed to find himself an object of ridicule, inquired what the author could find so particularly amusing. " A thousand pardons," was the polite reply, " but I could not help smiling to see you searching in the dark for what I shall be unable to find in the daylight." A Parisian had been accustomed for twenty years to pass his evenings at the house of a certain Mme. R . He lost his wife, and everyone expected he would marry the lady whom he had so assiduously visited. When, however, his friends urged him to do so, he refused, saying, " I should no longer know where to pass my evenings." A general who had been beaten in Germany and in Italy perceived one day, hanging oyer his door, a drum inscribed with this device : " I am beaten on both sides." The Regent of Orleans wished to go to a masked ball without being recognised. " I know how to manage it," said the Abbe Dubois. During the ball he set the Regent on his guard against disclosing his identity, by dint of sundry admonitory kicks. The victim, finding the clerical foot by no means a light one, whispered, " My dear Abbe, you disguise me too much." A French soldier, not knowing how otherwise to pass his time, entered the fashionable church of Saint-Roch. When the woman who receives money for the use of chairs approached him and asked for five sous, " Five sous ? " he ex claimed. "If I had five sous I should not be here." A lady had a spoilt child, whose praises she was never tired of sounding. " Your child is. delightful," said a visitor. "At what time does. he go to bed ? " Someone, in presence of the Abbe Trublet, Parisian Characteristics.] A STRING OF ANECDOTES. was praising one day the soft seductive manners of Mme. de-Tencin, who was fascinating but with out principle. "Yes," said the abbe, "if she wished to poison you she would use the sweetest poison she could find." A Paris cabdriver, much vexed by the success of the omnibus, then just introduced, determined fought fourteen duels by way of maintaining his opinion that Dante was a greater poet than Petrarch. When dying from the effects of a wound received in his last encounter, he admitted to a friend that he had never read a line of either poet. A Parisian candidate for the degree of bachelor PARISIAN TYPES — IN THE BARRACKS. to start an opposition. He proposed to take passengers at four sous a head, and put this in scription outside his vehicle : " Fiacribus at four sous." . A Parisian boy was receiving a long lecture from his father on the subject of his inattention, no matter what good advice might be given to him. The boy lowered his head and seemed to be earnestly engaged in listening to his parent's observations. Suddenly, however, he exclaimed, " Ninety-nine — one hundred ! That is the hun dredth ant, father, that has gone into that little hole since you have been talking to me." A Parisian, who could not brook contradiction, in letters was being examined in history. He gave satisfactory answers to every question until at last he was asked when Charle magne lived. "Eight centuries before Christ," he replied. "You mean after Christ?" said the questioner with a smile. "I am sorry to disagree with the board of examiners," answered the young man with some modesty, " but I maintain my opinion that Charlemagne must have lived eight centuries before Christ." This determined student had, as a matter of course, to be plucked. Two daughters of Paris, at the bedside of their dying father, who had gained millions by usury, 26 PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [Parisian Characteristics. were shocked to hear the priest, who had just received his confession, enjoin restitution as the only condition on which he could possibly be saved. " For pity's sake, father," said the girls, when the priest had left the room, " do nothing of the kind. You will suffer for a short time, but after the first quarter of an hour you will be like a fish in water." An impressionable Paris banker, the owner of immense riches, died of grief on hearing that he had lost everything in the world except 100,000 francs. His pauper brother, on inheriting the sum, died of joy. A Parisian husband, to whom his wife rendered but scant obedience, asked her one day, when she was leaving the house, where she was going. " Wherever I like," she answered. " And when do you propose to come back ? " " Whenever I think fit," she replied. "If you return one moment later," said the husband, with an air of menace, " I shall have a word with you." A Parisian schoolboy, meeting a little beggar in the street who declared himself to be the most miserable boy alive, said to him, with an accent of deep sympathy, " What ! are you learning the Latin grammar ? " The Prince de Conde was one of the wittiest of Parisians. He had been criticising severely a tedious tragedy called Zenobia, the work of the Abbe" d'Aubignac. "It is written strictly in accordance," said one of the Abbe's defenders, "with the rules of Aristotle." "I don't blame the abbe," replied Conde, "for having followed Aristotle, but I shall never forgive Aristotle for having caused him to write so tedious a piece." A Parisian grande dame, before whom a gen tleman had just taken out a cigar, was asked whether she disliked the smell of tobacco. " I cannot say," she replied. " No one has ever smoked in my presence." The French are perhaps less celebrated than of old for their politeness. It- was a French preacher, however, who, in a sermon delivered before Louis XIV., observed deferentially "we are nearly all mortal " ; and it was a French professor who, when Louis XVIII. had requested from him some lessons in chemistry, began his explanations by saying, "These two bodies, of opposite properties, will now have the honour of combining in presence of your Majesty." A Parisian, in the midst of a dissipated life, was prevailed upon to enter a monastery. Ere long he confessed to the Superior that in his moments of solitude he was constantly assailed by a desire to return to his former mode of existence. The Superior recommended him on these occasions to ring the great bell of the monastery, which would at once give him bodily exercise, distract him from evil thoughts, and be a signal to the other monks to pray for him. He rang, however, so frequently that the bell went on tolling all night, until at last representa tions on the subject were made from the entire neighbourhood. A cuirassier, who had seen and admired Horace Vernet's military pictures, called upon the great painter and asked how much he would charge him for his portrait. " How much are' you prepared to pay ? " asked Vernet. " I could go as high — as high as a franc and a half," replied the soldier. " Done," said Vernet, and in a few minutes he had made a rapid sketch of the warrior. As the cuirassier left the room he said1 to a comrade who had been waiting for him at the door, " I got it done for a franc and a half. But I am sorry, now, I did not bargain. He might have taken a franc." Sophie Arnould's dog having fallen ill, the celebrated actress sent him for treatment to her friend Mesmer, inventor of the pretended science which bears his name. In a few days the German physician returned the dog with a letter certifying that it was quite well. The dog, however, died on the way home. " What a comfort it is," said Sophie, on seeing the letter and the dead body, " to know that the poor animal died in good health." On seeing the dancer, Madeleine Guimard, who was thin even to scragginess, perform in a "pas de trois" with a robust male dancer leaping about on each side of her, Sophie Arnould said that it was like two dogs fighting for a bone. A Parisian lady observed one day, in the pres ence of a man six feet high who greatly admired her, that she did not like tall men. He redoubled his attentions until, seeing her one day in rather a dreamy condition, he asked her what she was thinking about. " I am wondering how it is," she replied, " that you seem to get smaller and smaller every day." The Abb^ Fouquet was Mazarin's spy, and he threw numberless Parisians into the Bastille. One man, whom he sent there one day, saw a large dog in the court-yard of the fortress-prison. " What has that dog done ? " he asked, " to get in a place like this ? " " He has probably bitten the Abbe Fouquet's dog," replied a veteran prisoner. An amorous youth wished to send to the object of his affections a passionate, but at the Parisian Characteristics.] A STRING OF ANECDOTES. 27 same time witty, epistle. After cudgelling his brains for some hours to no purpose he went to a bookseller's, bought a " complete letter-writer," and copied out what seemed to him the most suitable missive, which he duly despatched. The young lady replied to him next day as follows : " Turn to the next page and you will find my answer." A Parisian publisher, extremely annoyed at having printed a big book of which he could only sell four copies, bitterly reproached the author, telling him that his works would not even give him bread. A vigorous blow with the fist, which knocked out several of the publisher's teeth, was the only reply made by the haughty writer. Arrested by. the police, the latter, called upon to explain his conduct, extricated himself by the following ingenious defence, at which the judge, the audience, and even the plaintiff could not restrain their laughter. " Gentlemen," he said, " I confess that I acted with rather too much warmth. I knocked out his teeth ; but after all, what mischief is done ? He told me my works would not give him bread, and teeth are useless when there is nothing to eat." The Marquis de Favieres, a great borrower and notorious for never returning his loans, went one day to the financier Samuel Bernard, and said to him : " I am going to astonish you, sir. I am the Marquis de Favieres. I do not know you, and I have come to borrow five hundred louis." " Sir," said Bernard, " I shall astonish you still more. I know you, and I am going to lend you the money." The Parisian " badaud, " an intensification of the London Cockney, has a reputation, more over, for making blunders and bulls of the Irish kind. One of them, hazarding some speculations on the subject of astronomy, is said to have observed that the moon was a much more important orb than the sun, because the sun " comes out only in the day-time, when every one can see perfectly well. The moon, on the other hand, shines in the darkness, when a light to guide us is really wanted." Another Parisian of the dull species once wrote to a friend as follows : "A man has just called me a villain, and threatened, if I ever speak to him again, to kick me. What do you usually do in such a case ? " A Parisian who, without knowing much about horse-flesh, had just bought a horse, was asked whether the animal was timid. " Not at all," he replied. " He has slept three nights running in the stable by himself." Another Parisian "sportsman " was reproached by a connoisseur with having clipped his horse's ears. He explained that the animal was in the habit, whenever alarmed, of pricking up his ears, and that he had cut them in order to cure him of his timidity. A literary specimen of the Parisian Cockney is said to have written, in an historical novel, the following remarkable sentence. " Before the year 1667 Paris at night was plunged in total darkness, which was made darker than ever by the absence of gas-lights, not yet invented. In a Russian history of Poland, the Poles were seriously reminded that it was not until after the partition of Poland that the streets of Warsaw were lighted with gas. 28 PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The Streets! CHAPTER VI. THE STREETS. The Arrangement of the Streets— System of Numbering the Houses - Street Nomenclature— Street Lamps— The Various Kinds of Vehicles in Use. WE have already searched the streets of Paris for types of character. Let us pro ceed to look at one or two characteristic street objects, after first taking a general view of the streets themselves. The streets of Paris divide themselves into two categories : those parallel to the Seine and those at right angles to it. In the first the numbers follow the course of the stream, in the second they begin from that end of the street which is nearest to the river. The traveller, however, finding himself in any particular street, cannot in the present day tell at once to which category it belongs, inasmuch as the old distinction of colour is no longer preserved, by which the parallel streets used to be numbered in red, and those at right angles in black. All the Paris streets are lit up throughout the night. Early in the morning, before daylight, companies of scavengers collect the city refuse in heaps which, some hours afterwards, are carted away into the neighbouring country to fertilise the soil. During the day other scavengers clear the highways of whatever dust or mud they may have accumulated. Every day in summer water-carts sprinkle the principal thoroughfares. These carts carry behind them an apparatus which flings the water over the whole width of the street. In streets which are rather narrow, or when the cart cannot keep exactly to the middle, the pedestrians come in for a part of the municipal spray, as also do vehicles which are low or open. It is prudent, therefore, to keep one's eye on the water-cart, unless a gratuitous shower-bath is absolutely desired. Every public way bears a distinctive name. Extended thoroughfares are not infrequently divided up into portions, each named separately ; this is due sometimes to local circumstances, sometimes to the fact that in the olden days it was a caprice of the citizens frequently to change the title of the street in which they resided. It was not until the seventeenth century that the municipal administration officially intervened in this matter. Then, however, the titles were less often derived from local circumstances, adulation lavishing on the highways and byways the names of princes and other personages of wealth or power. Under Louis XIV. a certain proportion of street names were also drawn from royal victories or from those officers who had achieved them. The Revolution inscribed with the names of its heroes, its martyrs, its triumphs, its prin ciples, not only the new streets which it opened, but even the old ones from which it wished to efface monarchical titles. The Empire followed the same system. The Restoration returned to the Royalist traditions ; and the monarchy of July united those of the Revolution and the Empire, mingling the ancient glories of France with the modern, and illustrious foreigners with natives of renown. To pass, however, from streets to street- illumination. Parisians of to-day, accustomed to the brilliancy of gas, which turns night almost into day, can scarcely believe that two centuries ago their town knew no other light than that of the moon and stars. It was the case, neverthe less ; previously to 1667 not a public lamp existed. The necessity of street illumination had already, however, been recognised by a civic regulation which required householders, in those localities where garrotting had become too frequent, to place beneath their first-floor window, at 9 p.m., a lantern which might cast its beams into the street. It was M. de la Reynie, lieutenant of police for Paris, who first, in 1667, instituted public lamps. At the outset a lamp was placed at the end of each street, with a third in the middle. Then, after a time, the number of lamps was increased in streets of exceptional length. Each containing a candle, these " lan- ternes" were suspended by a rope from a crooked iron bar in the form of the gallows. The lamps introduced by La Reynie marked a certain progress in civilisation. They at least diminished in a remarkable manner the number of night attacks. La Reynie's lanterns lasted until 1776, when they were replaced by so-called reverberes, or reflecting lamps. In a few months more than half the streets in Paris were illumin ated by the new lamps, which, with some modi fications, remained in use until the introduction of gas. The most celebrated of all the lamps in Paris The Streets.^ PARIS STREET LAMPS. 29 was the lamp or "lanterne" of the Place de la Greve, which on the outbreak of the Revolution of aristocrats were dragged to the fatal lamp, but saved at the last moment by the intervention of PARISIAN TYPES— IN SEARCH OF CIGAR-ENDS. was made the instrument of several summary executions, the first victims being two retired soldiers and Major de Losme, accused of firing on the people at the capture of the Bastille. The cry of " A la lanterne ! " was now constantly raised ; and when the emigration began a number Bailly and La Fayette. ¦ The notorious Foulon, detested by everyone, was really hanged from the fatal lamp. His son-in-law, Bertier, was also dragged beneath the lamp, but he defended him self, snatched a musket from one of his guards, and fought until he was shot down. On the 5th 30 PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The Streets. of October the brave Abbe Lefevre d'Ormesson, a member of the Commune, was half hanged by a number of wild women. Fortunately for him, the rope was cut before it had done its work. About the same time the mob, perishing from hunger, hung to the lamp a baker named Frangois, accused of hoarding up his bread. Francois is said to have been the " last man tied up to the illuminated gallows " of the Place de la Greve. Camille Desmoulins published, some eighty years before Henri Rochefort made use of the title, a pamphlet called " La Lanterne," or, to quote the title in full, " Discours de la Lan terne aux Parisiens." It bore this epigraph : " Qui male agit odit lucem," which he translated thus : " Only rogues fear the light." If, however, the public lamps of Paris are the most conspicuous street objects by night, those which first strike the eye by day are unquestion ably the vehicles. In France, as in other countries, carriages are comparatively of modern invention ; and when they were first introduced they were generally condemned as calculated to do away with a taste for equitation and to produce habits of effeminacy. The condition of the streets and public thorough fares would, in ancient times, have rendered the employment of vehicles, impossible, and thus persons who did not go on foot went on horse back until the sixteenth century, when the use of the so-called " Sedan-chairs " became general. Wheeled carriages were not absolutely unknown, but in Francis l.'s reign there were but two, one belonging to the king, the other to the queen. The privilege of constructing and letting out Sedan-chairs, or " chaises a bras," was granted by Louis XIII. at the beginning of the seventeenth century to one of the officers of his body-guard ; and towards the end of the reign, after many other inventions in the way of vehicles had been tried, two- wheeled chaises, called " brouettes," or " wheelbarrows," were introduced by a Monsieur Dupin, who received the king's support in the shape of a formal authorisation. There was now a great dispute between the privileged makers of Sedan-chairs and the privileged makers of "wheelbarrows," which ended in this com promise — that the new wheelbarrows were not to be allowed unless drawn exclusively by men. In the reign of Henry IV. the carriage, or "carrosse," was introduced : a heavy, lumbering vehicle, whose windows were hung with leather curtains. The use of glass in carriage windows had not yet been adopted. Henry IV. was him self driving in one of these carriages when Ravaillac thrust his hand through the window and struck the fatal blow. The first coach with glass windows — " glass- coach," as the new vehicle was called when, many years later, it was introduced into England — was seen in Paris in 1630, brought there from Brussels by the Prince de Conde. Up to the middle of the seventeenth century no wheeled vehicles were seen in the streets of Paris except those belonging to private persons. In 1650, however, it occurred to a man named Sauvage, living in an hotel in the Rue Saint-Martin, which bore the sign of " Saint-Fiacre," to let out horses and carriages to anyone who wanted them ; and in time the name of fiacre was given to all hired carriages. Soon afterwards, about the middle of the seventeenth century, so-called " diligences " were established for conveying "with diligence " passengers in common from one part of France to another ; and from the idea of con veying a number of passengers in the same vehicle from town to town was derived that of the omnibus, doing a like service within the walls of the capital. The invention of the omni bus is attributed to Pascal, the author of so many " Pensees " of a finer type. The original Parisian omnibus was called the "five sous carriage" — " carrosse au cinq sous " — five sous being required from each passenger. It held six persons, and carried as a distinctive sign a lantern at the end of an iron pole, which was fixed on the top, to the left of the driver. Until the time of the Revolution the right of letting out carriages was always made the subject of a privilege or concession, accorded to some court favourite, male or female. After the Revo lution, however, when all privileges were abolished, those connected with the letting out of public vehicles came to an end. A few years afterwards, in 1 800, a tariff regulating the prices payable to the drivers of hackney carriages was drawn up, when, as now, the cost of a drive, or " course," inside Paris, was fixed at something above a franc, two francs being chargeable per hour if the vehicle were hired by time. Origin ally private carriages had now become public, so that at last a demand arose for carriages which might be taken by the month, the week, the day, or the half-day. Hitherto all the hackney vehicles of Paris had been of one pattern and furnished with four wheels. They seated either two or four passen gers, and were drawn by one or two horses. In the year 1800 the two-wheeled " cabriolet " was introduced, containing seats for two, one of which the Streets.] PARIS VEHICLES. 3i was occupied by the driver, to whose intimate society the unfortunate passenger was thus con demned. From this period until 1830 the public vehicles of Paris were, according to a French writer, "a disgrace to the capital." They were drawn by ruined beasts which looked unlikely to reach any given destination, and they were many of them good' for nothing but firewood. The Paris hackney vehicle largely excited at this time the ridicule of wits and song-writers, although, irrespectively of its condition, it has always figured almost exclusively in literature. In a great city like Paris the cab is the wit ness, the auxiliary, or the accomplice in nearly every event which takes place — it is a mute confidant in most of the scenes of human life. The song-writer, Desaugiers, has left in verse a curious history of a cab, supposed to be written by itself, and in which it relates how one day it conveyed a widow to the altar, another day a husband to Chantilly with out his wife, and a third day the wife to Gros-Bois without her husband. Coming to modern times, we find the driver of the fiacre as interesting a per sonage as he must frequently find his fare to be. The - question whether, as is asserted, ruined aristocrats are at present earning their bread as cab-drivers has already been discussed. But it is un questionable that many members of what are called the " better " classes turn to the cab as their last resource, even as Dr. Johnson's "scoundrel" was said to turn to politics. Priests, devoid in two senses of a living, bachelors of arts and sciences, old professors and worn-out notaries, may be seen plying the whip of the " cocher " in the Paris streets. That the London cab — of which the name, as probably everyone knows, is simply a contraction of " cabriolet " — surpasses the cab of Paris is admitted even by patriotic Frenchmen. One able writer on the subject of the French capital says that " the London cabs, which we have vainly tried to acclimatise in Paris, are, if not comfortable, at least rapid and well-managed. Our neighbours can boast two jelements of incontestable superiority. These are the drivers and the horses. Despite these causes, it is probable that the English ' cab ' would be found less attractive if, instead of being paid by the mile, it were taken by the journey or by the hour." This writer, it should be explained, complains bitterly that the Parisian cabman, engaged by the hour, proceeds at a crawl, knowing that he will be paid just as much as if he drove with the celerity of his London brother, who simply wants to get to his journey's end and receive A PARIS OMNIBUS. his fare — or as much beyond it as he possibly can. As regards the omnibuses of Paris, they re semble in many respects those of London. For instance, they are painted different colours ac cording to their particular route. When the vehicle is quite full a board or card announcing the fact is fixed up over the door ; and each vehicle is numbered so that in case of complaint it can be identified by the passenger. The private carriages let out on hire — those which can be taken by the month or for the 32 PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The Streets. season — are not permitted to ply in the streets of Paris like the fiacre. They take up their passenger at his own door, and can be hired by the year, month, day, or half-day. The form of these vehicles varies, according to the caprices or the fortune ofthe hirer, from plain to magnificent. In France, as in England, rich families accustomed to winter in the capital leave their own carriages in the country and hire others by the month. Even wealthy Frenchmen, who reside altogether in the capital, have of late years shown them selves more and more disposed to escape in this way the trouble and annoyance connected with the maintenance pf personal equipages. Nor do those Englishmen who have tried both methods feel a less marked preference for that of hire, which relieves them from the numerous anxieties associated with the stable. It will be remembered how Henry J. Byron's coachman came to that comedy-writer one day and said that the mare was ill. "What's to be done?" asked Byron. "I shall have to give her a ball, sir," was the reply. "Very well," said Byron with a sigh of resignation, "but don't ask too many people." CHAPTER VII. THE SEINE AND ITS BRIDGES. — THE MORGUE. The Various Bridges over the Seine — Their Histories — The Morgue — Some Statistics. OF all the Paris thoroughfares the most im portant, in a commercial sense, is the Seine, "¦ which enters the city from the east to flow out in the direction ofthe south-west. The Seine,ho wever, >. does not play in connection with Paris the part of the Thames in connection with London. On the , Seine no large ships are to be seen above or below bridge ; and until a few years ago the attempts periodically made to establish a service of pas senger steamers, such as we have on the Thames at London, were usually discontinued after a brief experimental season. Wine, wood, stone, and other merchandise is sent down the Seine towards Havre at the mouth. But the Parisians, as a body, make little use of the Seine, except for bathing purposes, and then only during the warm weather, when the numerous swimming baths established on the river are largely frequented. The Seine enters Paris after receiving at Con- i flans the waters of the Marne. The first bridge beneath which it passes, beyond Bercy, is' con tinued on either side as a viaduct, and is connected 4»with the external or girdle railway known as the Chemin de Fer de Ceinture. Constructed in 1858, when the Second Empire was at the height of its popularity it received the name • of " Napoleon III." 27 The next bridge, the Pont de Bercy, wnich dates from 1835, was originally a suspension bridge. In 1863 it was replaced by the present bridge, constructed in stone, with five elliptical and very graceful arches. To the bridge of Bercy succeeds the bridge of Austerlitz, whose name connects it with one of the greatest battles of the First Empire. Begun in 1802, it was finished in 1807, and was called the bridge of Austerlitz in memory of the important victory gained on the 2nd of December, 1805, by Napoleon, over the arms of Austria and Russia. When in 18 14 the allied armies were in possession of Paris, some observa tion was made to the Emperor Alexander of Russia by a time-serving French official as to the name ofthe bridge, which, it was suggested, might be changed. " I do not mind the name," replied Alexander, " now that I have crossed the bridge at the head of my troops." More sensitive, or at least more irritable than the Russian emperor, Blucher took umbrage at another of the Paris bridges being called, in commemoration of the great Prussian defeat, bridge of Jena, and really wished to blow it up. He was dissuaded from this project by the Russian emperor, who, according to an anecdote more or less veracious, said that if the Prussian marshal thought seriously of carrying his project 34 PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The Seine into execution, the emperor would take up his position on the bridge and perish with it. Under the Restoration the name of the bridge of Austerlitz was really changed. It was hence officially designated Bridge of the King's Garden, but continued in general parlance to be called by its original name. A little below the bridge of Austerlitz the Saint-Martin canal pours its waters into the river ; and not many yards lower down the Seine met formerly the island of Louviers, on which there were no habitations, but only warehouses for wood. The narrow channel which separated this island from the right bank of the river was filled up in 1847, when, in a geograph ical sense, the island ceased to exist. At a short distance from what was formerly the lie Louviers, the Seine throws out on the right an arm, which, before rejoining the main stream, forms the island of Saint-Louis. In the seven teenth century this island was augmented by being joined to two smaller ones ; the island of Cows on the east, and the island of Notre Dame (the property of the cathedral) on the west ; and the triple island received the name of lie Saint-Louis in honour of the great king. The island of Saint-Louis communicates with the left bank, from which the main stream separates it, by the foot bridge of Constantine and the bridge of Latournelle. The bridge of Constantine owes its name to the town taken by the French in 1836. It is only available for pedestrians. The ancient bridge of Latournelle, constructed in 1 6 14 on the site of a still older one, was in wood. After being several times destroyed in this form, it was in 1656 reconstructed in stone. In 1831 a band of thieves who had robbed the royal library of many valuable medals, threw their booty from the Pont de Latournelle into the Seine, whence the greater part of it was recovered by divers. Close to the Pont de Latournelle is the Pont Marie, of which the first stone was laid in 1614 by Louis XIII. and Marie de Medicis. The bridge, however, is said, according to a somewhat improbable statement, generally accepted by the historians of Paris, to owe its name, not to the queen, but to Marie, a well-known builder of the time. The next bridge, as we continue to descend the stream, is the Pont Louis Philippe, the date of which is indicated approximately by the reign under which it was built. Begun in 1833, it was finished in 1834, but since then has undergone many restorations and modifications. The bridge of Saint-Louis, which joins the two islands, re places the second section of the original Louis Philippe bridge, at one time known from its colour as the Red Bridge. We now reach the celebrated Pont Neuf, which with its two arms connects the island of the city, otherwise island of Notre Dame, with both banks of the Seine. The island in question is the ancient Lutetia, the germ of modern Paris. The number of habitations on this kernel, this core of the French metropolis, becomes smaller every year. Before long it will be occupied only by its ancient historical edifices, with a cafe-chantant at one end ofthe island and the Morgue at the other .- Some who begin life at the former will finish it perhaps at the latter establishment. As to the other bridges, it may be sufficient to mention some of their names ; which possess for the most part historical significance, and for that reason have, in many cases, to suit historical circum stances, been changed. The bridge of the Arts owes its name to the institute on the left bank, which it connects with the Louvre on the right ; and this bridge has retained its original name since the date of its construction. But the National Bridge, as it was called when it was first built under the Republic of 1789, became, after the proclamation of the First Empire, the bridge of the Tuileries ; and at the time ofthe Restoration, Pont Royal. The Solferino bridge, dating only from i860, the year after the great battle of the French against the Austrians, has retained its name without intermission. The Pont de la Cour has, like the Place of the same name, been called successively Pont Louis XV., Pont de la Revolution, Pont Louis XVI., and finally (since the Revolution which in 1830 placed Louis Philippe on the throne) Pont de la Cour. The bridge of the Alma dates from 1855, the second year of the Crimean war. Having now disposed, somewhat summarily, of the Paris bridges, let us say a few words about that mournful establishment, the Morgue, to which a desperate leap from one of the bridges has so often led. The Paris Morgue is situated at the back of Notre Dame, close to the bridge of Saint-Louis. Reconstructed in 1864, it re places the original one in the form of a Greek tomb, which was built in virtue of a police edict under the First Republic. Something of the kind, however, was known long before, and in ancient chronicles a morgue, where dead bodies were ex posed, is spoken of as far back as the early days of the seventeenth century. In its existing form the Morgue is a one-storied building, with two wings, and with slabs of black marble in two lines, for the reception of twelve bodies. The and its Bridges.] THE MORGUE. 35 keeper of the Morgue is supposed, by the writer of a novel choke-full of horrors, to have dwelling rooms in this dismal abode ; and the perverted imagination of the author represents him as giving an evening party to his friends in close proximity to the sepulchral chamber where the feed the 1745 cases Morgue, -, 114 by forty-six through remains of so many unhappy victims are waiting falls from heights, sixteen through sharp weapons, What are the kinds of death which Morgue? From 1826 to 1846, out of 1) of apparent suicide represented at the there were 1,414 deaths by drowning, hanging, ninety-eight by fire-arms, through the fumes of charcoal, fifty-six AUSTERLITZ BRIDGE. to be recognised by their relatives or friends. The number of men who find their way to this place of ill omen is, according to the statistical tables on the subject, far greater than that of the women. Thus, up to the age of twenty-five, the number of male occupants of the Morgue was found, during a period of years, to be 515 as against 115 female occupants. Between the ages of twenty-five and forty -five, among 1,242 occu pants, 1,050 were men, and 192 women. From forty-five to fifty-five, there were 599 men, and fifty-eight women. eleven by poison, seven by crushing beneath vehicles, and 4 by alcohol. About two-thirds of the bodies exposed at the Morgue are never recognised. There is so much that is beautiful and elevating, so much that is curious and interesting, to be seen in Paris, that a visit to the Morgue — by many persons thought indispensable — should surely, by persons of ordinary taste and feeling, be regarded as time ill-spent. It ought to be sufficient to read of it in Jules Janin's strange novel already referred to. 3" PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The Reformation in Paris. CHAPTER VIII. THE REFORMATION IN PARIS. D'Etaples, the Pioneer of the Reformation— Nicolas Cop and Calvin— Progress of the Reformation— Persecutions — Catharine de Medicis— St. Bartholomew's — The Edict of Nantes. PERMANENT head-quarters of science and study, the left bank of the Seine was also in the fifteenth century the home of a great religious movement, by which, for some time, the right bank was scarcely touched. and, under his auspices, assembled in Paris a first group of ardent propagators of the new ideas. During forty-three years the Reformation spread gradually to the University, to the town and to the court, though it maintained its head-quarters ON THE SAINT-MARTIN CANAL. " Few persons," says M. Athanase Coquerel Fife, " know that the Reformation of the six teenth century, before it flamed forth in Germany and elsewhere, had already been kindled in the capital of France. It had for its cradle that left bank of the Seine which was then separated from the town and its suburbs, and divided into two quarters subjected to special jurisdictions : the University and the vast territory of the Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Pres. Was it not natural, despite the jealous vigilance of the Sorbonne, that the Paris schools where Abailard had boldly attacked school-divinity should be the first to awake to the new spiritual life ? " A professor of the college of Cardinal Lemoine Lefevre, d'fitaples by name, produced in 1512, within the precincts of the Abbey, his "Commen tary on St. Paul," in whose epistles he indicated, five years before Luther, the essential doctrines ofthe Reformation. This book was dedicated to the powerful abbot of Saint-Germain, Brigonnet, in the suburb of Saint-Germain, which people became accustomed to call " the little Geneva," and which is to-day the most Catholic quarter of Paris. The first Protestant put to death for his religion was one of the pupils of Lefevre, by name Pauvent, burned on the Place de Greve in 1524. ; His martyrdom was followed ere long by that of many a Huguenot. Calvin at this period was studying at Paris, but he could not stay there. The rector of the University, Nicolas Cop, a secret propagator of the Reformation, had commissioned young Calvin to write a discourse which, on a formal occasion, he had to deliver in the church of the Mathurins. Several monks denounced in Parliament the heresies contained in this discourse. The rector fled to Bale, where he became a pastor. Calvin, it is said, had to escape by a window of one of the colleges. > It was in the Louvre that the Reformation was first publicly preached at Paris. Queen THE SOLFERINO BRIDGE, FROM THE QUAI D1 ORSAY. 38 PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The Reformation in Paris. Marguerite of Navarre, sister of Francis I. and the friend of Briconnet, caused her chaplain and other disciples of Lefevre to preach before her in that palace. Thereupon the Franciscan friar, Lemaud, declared from his pulpit that she ought to be thrown into the Seine in a sack. The priestly rage which had now been excited soon spread to the people, and the streets began to resound with cries of " Death to the Heretics." " To be thrown into the river," says Beze, writing of this period, "it was only necessary to be called a Huguenot in public, no matter what one's religion might be." A series of religious murders were now perpe trated ; and Francis I., a bigot like his people, headed one day in 1535 a procession in which he was followed by his three sons, the court, the parliaments, the trade corporations, and the brotherhoods, and of which the object was to burn at the stake six Protestants at six different halting-places. Henri II. took after his father. On one occasion he assisted, from a window of the Hotel de la Rochepot, Rue Saint- Antoine, at the execution of a Protestant tailor who was burned alive. It is said, however, that the martyr's eyes, fixed as they were upon him, inspired him with terror, and that this was the last heretic whose dying pangs he ever witnessed. As yet the Protestants of Paris had neither temple nor pastor. But already they had schools, " hedge schools," as they were termed, becausei prohibited within the city walls, the teachers took refuge in the country. The secret meetings of the Protestants of Paris were often surprised. In 1557 services were held and the Communion was administered in one of the houses of the Rue Saint-Jacques, beside the building where is now established the Lyceum of Louis the Great. Excited by the seminarists of the College Duplessis, the populace besieged the assembly for six hours, stoning many per sons as they came out. Several were killed, and 135 prisoners were taken to the Chatelet. Among those who were executed may be men tioned the young and beautiful widow of a member of the Consistory, "who," says a chronicler of the times, " seated on the tumbril, showed a face of rosy complexion and of excel lent beauty." The poor woman's tongue had been cut out, which was often done at that time in order to prevent the martyrs from addressing the crowds. As a special mark of favour, the beautiful widow was only scorched in the face and on the feet ; and she was then strangled before the body was finally consigned to the flames. The Protestant poet, Clement Marot, to whom Francis I. had given a house, called the " House of the Bronze Horse," translated at this epoch some of the Psalms into French verse, and his work obtained extraordinary vogue even at the court. The students, who used to amuse themselves in the evening in the Pre -aux Clercs, opposite the Louvre, replaced their customary songs by the Psalms of Marot ; and it became the fashion for a time among the lords and ladies of the court to cross the Seine in order to hear the chants of the students. Often they joined in ; and the Huguenot king of Navarre, Antoine de Bourbon, was seen walking round the Louvre and singing a psalm at the head of a long procession of courtiers and scholars. The persecution, which for a time had slack ened, was soon revived in all its fury. Marot took flight. Paris had grown too hot for him ; "Paris," he says, in an epigram dated 1537, " Paris, thou hast given me many a fright, even to the point of chasing me to death " : — < " Paris, tu m'as fait maints d'allarmes Jusqu'a me poursuyvre a la mort." In spite of everything the deputies of the reformed church continued to meet at Paris in the Faubourg Saint-Germain, where they held secretly their first national synod in 1 559. This assembly, of which not one member would have escaped the block had they been discovered, bound into one corporation the reformed churches of France, until then without cohesion. Francis II., husband of Mary Queen of Scots, and through her nephew of the Guises, allowed this persecuting family to carry on the cruel work of his father. The illustrious chancellor, Du Bourg, was hanged and burned in the Place de Greve, as to which Voltaire wrote : " This murder was of more service to Protestantism than all the most eloquent works written by its defenders." Cardinal de Lorraine captured many other victims by surrounding a Protestant hotel in the Rue des Marais Saint-Germain. This street was the head-quarters of the reformed church, and many of its houses communicated with one another by means of mysterious apertures through which the inhabitants passed when threatened with arrest. The street in question, one of the most historic in all Paris, was lately rechristened by the name of Visconti in place of the one which it had borne for more than three centuries, and by which it was known, not only to the first Protestants of Paris, the d'Aubignes and the The Reformation in Paris.] CATHERINE DE MEDICIS. 39 Du Moulins, but later on to the Duke de la Rochefoucauld and Mme. de Sevigne, to Racine and Voltaire, to Mile. Clairon and Adrienne Lecouvreur, who all for a considerable time inhabited it, or were accustomed to visit its inhabitants. Meanwhile the reform continued to spread. Coligny and his. two brothers, one of whom was a cardinal, joined it openly. These three Chatillons were now violently attacked in the Paris churches, and Jean de Han, a monk, took one day for his text, " Ite in Castellum quod contra vos est," which he thus trans lated : "March upon Chatillon, who is against you." On assuming the regency, Catherine de Medicis, indifferent to both religions, hesitated between the Chatillons and the Guises. She summoned a conference at Poissy in the hope of bringing about a reconciliation. Theodore de Beze represented Calvin on the occasion, and for several months he was allowed to fulfil all the duties of pastor at Paris. The reformed religion was now celebrated openly, but in general beyond the walls. Four pastors, without counting Beze, preached regularly in the different places of worship. One of them, Malot, had been vicar at Saint-Andre-des-Arcs, and the chronicles of the times speak of assemblies of from two to three thousand Protestants. Catherine de Medicis placed herself one day at a window in the Rue Saint-Antoine to see the Huguenots go by to their place of worship, and many of them, knowing the intention of the queen, wore on that occasion the insignia of their rank or profession. In 1562 the Consistory of Paris adopted, for the relief of the indigent, a regulation which was read from all the Protestant pulpits, with the names of those who were to distribute the alms, notwith standing the danger thus brought upon them. Soon afterwards, indeed, a riot provoked by the clergy of Saint-Medard disturbed the service that was being celebrated by Malot. in the adjoining temple of .the Patriarch. Temple and church were invaded and sacked, and the officer of the watch, Gabaston by name, was afterwards hanged for having arrested indiscriminately the rioters of both religions. The temple was now shut up, while Saint-Medard was restored and inaugurated anew with great pomp, numbers of Protestants being sacrificed on the occasion. The constable of Montmorency gained the sobriquet of Captain Burn-bench (Brule-banc) from having set fire to the interior of the reformed church of Popincourt. Subsequently he burned this same building from roof to' basement and sacked another Protestant temple in the Rue aux Fosses Saint- Jacques. The edict of January having granted to the Protestants a certain tolerance, Guise, who boasted that he would cut this edict in half with his sword, proved his word by the massacre of Vassy. The Protestants of Paris were terrified at this tragedy, but would not be discouraged. The very day the duke returned to Paris, his sword reeking with innocent blood, Beze went to preach at the temple of Jerusalem, whither he was escorted by the Prince de Cond6, a faithful Huguenot, and by a large company of mounted arquebusiers. During the second civil war, in January, 1568, the citizens of Paris were, by an official pro clamation, called upon to warn the Protestants of the capital to absent themselves from it, " until those who had taken arms against His Majesty should have laid them low." In December, after the "lame" peace, as it was called, Parliament ordered the Protestants to shut themselves up in their houses " to avoid the murders which might follow." It is asserted that ten thousand of them were assassinated dur ing the six months which succeeded the peace, though this figure is doubtless exaggerated. The extermination of the heretics had for a considerable time past been recommended to Catherine de Medicis by Philippe II., by the Duke of Alva, and by Pope Pius V. The queen, long irresolute, decided suddenly, just when the Guises had aggravated the situation by causing Coligny to be assassinated. Catherine, as we have seen in a previous chapter, obtained, at the last moment, the consent of the king ; but it was Charles's brother and successor, Henry III., who took the direction of the massacre and posted himself in the middle of the bridge of Notre Dame in order to have both banks beneath his eye. We know how the signal for the tragedy was given by the bell of Saint-Germain- l'Auxerrois, and how Coligny was the first to feel the Catholic steel. The assassins who now plunged into their ghastly work carried a white cross in their hat and a kerchief tied in a knot on their arm. At the court of the Louvre the officer of the guard, with a list in his hand, called out the Huguenot gentlemen who were staying in the palace, and the king, from one of the windows, saw the throats of his guests cut, to the number of two hundred. It is an error, all the same, to suppose that the massacre scarcely touched any but the aristocratic classes ; a large portion of 40 PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The Reformation in Paris. the Parisian population, merchants, workmen, belonged to the Reformation and perished. Towards seven in the morning Charles IX., armed with a blunderbuss, fired upon some of the fugitives, wh om he failed to hit because his fowling- now turned renegade. Conde abjured at Saint- Germain-des-Pres and Henry of Navarre and his sister at the Louvre. But the infant church was fondly nursed by such devotees as Berenger and Portal, who endowed it with a sum sufficient THE NATIONAL BRIDGE. piece did not carry far enough. This incident has been denied ; but it has been gravely recorded by Brantome, D'Aubigny, and Goulard. It was attested moreover to Voltaire by Marshal de Jesse. The Marshal had known the page, then almost a centenarian, who loaded and re-loaded the royal blunderbuss. After the massacre the king went to the Parliament and declared that he assumed the whole responsibility for what had happened. The audience of senators loudly applauded the murderer, and the chief president overwhelmed him with the vilest eulogies. On the 27th August the chapter of Notre Dame formed a special procession to thank the Almighty for the " extirpation of the heretics now happily com menced " ; and at the same juncture Panigarole, bishop of Asti, preaching before the queen- mother, Charles IX., and Henry, King of Poland, praised the king for having "in one morning purged France of heresy." Nor did the munici pality of Paris omit to have medals struck " in memory of Saint Bartholomew's Day." More than one professor of the reformed faith to maintain its pastors in their functions and to educate candidates for the future ministry. The edict of July authorised the exercise of the reformed religion at two leagues, from Paris. Noisy-le-Sec was chosen as the place of worship. But in September, 1576, the congre gation found itself assailed by the populace, and the faithful had to abandon all public service. The League, prepared long beforehand by the Cardinal of Lorraine, was organised in 1576 by two cures of Paris, a number of citizens, and several fanatical magistrates. From this moment Protestantism was more completely crushed in the capital than it had been even by the Saint Bartholomew butchery. The Spanish ambassador reigned at Paris. Hatred of the Reformation stifled in the breasts of the leaguers all love of their country ; and they went to the almost incredible length of offering, on the 20th September, 159 1, by a formal resolution passed in the municipal council, the city of Paris and the crown of France to Philip II., King of Spain. After the accession of Henry IV., in the interval which elapsed before the issuing of the The Reformation in Paris.] THE EDICT OF NANTES. 4i Edict of Nantes, which permitted Protestant worship except within five leagues of Paris, the sister of the new king, Catherine de Bourbon, made use of the privilege which be longed to the nobility of performing religious worship in their own houses, with the doors testants lost a large part of their advantages ; but, become Duchess of Bar, she returned every year to Paris and gathered the faithful around her. This continued, despite the frequent complaints of the clergy, until the Duchess's death in 1604. The Edict of Nantes formally countenanced THE RIGHT ARM OF THE SEINE FROM BOULEVARD HENRI IV. open. The reformed church found an asylum within her walls ; there the faithful adored their Maker in peace. On all occasions Catherine protected her co-religionists, and her brother, le Bearnais, when they came to him with some petition, used to send them on to her, saying :— " You must apply to my sister ; your kingdom is now under feminine rule." By the marriage and departure of Catherine in 1599 the Pro- the reformed religion even whilst forbidding its adherents to assemble for worship within five leagues of Paris. The meeting-place chosen in 1599 by the Protestants was the Chateau de Grigny, residence of the seigneur Josias Mercier des Bordes, a distinguished scholar as well as a councillor of state. Several times, on returning from Grigny, the Protestants were assailed by the populace, acting at the instigation of such 42 PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The Reformation in Paris. fanatics as the aristocratic capuchin, Ange de Joyeuse. It was found necessary to erect extra gibbets for those who attacked worshippers re turning from Grigny. This place of assembly, however, was too remote, and at the end of six months the king trans ferred it to Ablon - sur - Seine. Even Ablon proved inconveniently distant, although it was nearer the capital than the edict permitted. The difficulties and dangers of thejourney to this spot were great. The Protestants often went by water, and several were accidentally drowned. A petition presented to the king set forth that forty infants had died through having been carried in winter to baptism at Ablon. At length the king found that his own Protestant ministers could not render their duties to God and to himself on the same day ; and Henry IV., yielding to the influence of Sully and of Calignon, assigned to the Protestants of the capital, as their place of meeting, Charenton, two leagues distant. From that time the street and the faubourg of Saint-Antoine were traversed on Sunday by crowds of Huguenots, in carriages, on horseback, or on foot ; and for their protection two fresh gibbets had to be erected, one in the name of the Lieutenant of the Town, the other in that of the Chief of the Watch. Many of the Huguenots now went to Charenton by water. On Sundays and holidays the river was covered with boats of all kinds, conveying, in the words of a Catholic poet of the time, " La flotte des brebis galeuses Qui vont au presche a Charenton." The lord of the manor, notwithstanding the increased value given to his property by the arrival of the Huguenots, many of whom estab lished themselves in the neighbourhood of their one recognised place of worship, protested constantly against the toleration accorded to them. Often the Huguenots returning from Charen ton, where on Sunday they would pass the entire day, were attacked ; on which an appeal was made to the king, who took the part of his former co-religionists. The death of Henry IV. was a terrible blow to the French Protestants, who were now at the mercy of the Jesuits, of Catherine de Medicis, and of her Florentine advisers, such as the Concinis. The principal Protestant pastors deplored aloud from the Charenton pulpit the death of the king, who had endeavoured to bring about an under standing, if not perfect harmony, between his subjects of both religions, and whose wise tolerance. had been the cause of his death. Ravaillac was a fanatic who, in striking his murderous blow, had been prompted only by his hatred of Protestantism and of the king's concessions to the Protestants. The temple constructed at Charenton was pillaged and burnt in 1 62 1. In 1624 it was rebuilt on a larger scale ; and the Protestant historians note that it was approached through an avenue of shops, where books of all kinds were sold, without any objection on the part of the consistory, which, although very strict in its rules for the conduct of the Protestants, did not enforce the Judaic observ ance of the Sabbath, "as practised," says a writer of the time, by the Protestants of Scotland and England. Many illustrious persons still belonged to the reformed religion. But gradually the aristocratic families were bought over to the other side ; and the Jesuit Garasse declared that the chufch of the Protestants would soon be a church of beggars. The unhappy Protestants did not in any case neglect their poor ; and as it was found impos sible to keep priests and monks out of the hospitals, which were constantly invaded by them, the chiefs of the reformed religion established hospitals in secret places, which, however, were closed as soon as Catholic clergy or the public discovered them. In 1600 the Parliament of Paris interdicted these charitable establishments by a formal decree. The first decisive step towards the revocation of the Edict of Nantes was the suppression of all representation of the Protestants in the Parlia ments of Paris and of Normandy. In connection with this step Louis XIV. received, though only as a matter of form, Ruvigny, deputy general of the reformed church, and the eloquent pastor du Bose, of whom, after listening to the exposition of his claims, the king said to the queen : " He is the best speaker in my kingdom." He suppressed, all the same, the only guarantee of justice remaining to the French Protestants. The Protestant consistories were now required to admit into their assemblies representatives of the Catholic clergy, whose mission it was to read to them a so-called pastoral warning. Already the minister Louvois had attempted to enforce conversion to the Roman Catholic religion by quartering upon the unfortunate Protestants dragoons, whom, if they remained faithful to their religion, they had for an indefinite time to support. The so-called " dragonnades " were for the most part confined to the provinces. The Reformation in Paris.] PROTESTANTISM IN FRANCE. 43 Paris was exempted from them, lest the king himself should be scandalised by the scenes they well might lead to. Louvois had sworn to extirpate the " dangerous heresy," and he assured the king that he was doing so by peace ful means. Four days after the signing of the edict, and on the very day of its formal registration, the Protestant temples were demolished by the mob, who could not wait for official measures to be taken against the buildings already condemned. The cemetery adjoining the temple of Charenton was profaned, and the tombs of the Protestants violated, as, a century later, were to be violated the tombs of the Catholic kings. Notices were served on the chiefs of the Protestant families, commanding them, in the name of the king, to change their religion. Of the recalcitrants large numbers were sent to the Bastille, while the members of the consistory were exiled by " lettres de cachet.' Protestants who had been domiciled in Paris for less than a year were ordered to quit the capital, and the pastors in general had a fort night given to them in which to leave France ; while Claude, the most renowned amongst them, was ordered to quit French territory within twenty-four hours, being meantime watched by one of the king's servants. In the months of October, November, and December, 1685, no less than 1,087 members ofthe reformed church emigrated from Paris, 1,098 abjured their religion, while. 3,823, after refusing to abjure, still remained in the city. The emigration had been arranged beforehand by Claude and his colleagues. A constant service of guides was kept up between Paris and the frontiers, though it was death for those who had once quitted Paris to return. The exiles took flight at midnight on market days, when it was easier to pass the barriers. Notwithstanding the menace of capital punish ment, some half-dozen Protestant ministers returned to Paris a year after the revocation in order to do secret duty among their co- religionaries remaining in the capital. Some were sentenced to imprisonment for life in the isles of Sainte-Marguerite, others were shut up in the Bastille, and one of them, the celebrated Claude (Claude Brousson, by his full name), was hanged. Meanwhile some of the Protestants who still ventured to stay at Paris continued services at the English Embassy, or at the lega tion of the United Provinces. Instead of one chaplain the legation of the Dutch Republic maintained two. But an edict was soon passed forbidding French Protestants to attend worship in the chapels of any of the foreign ministers. Protestantism was not again to be tolerated in France until 1787, two years before the Revolu tion, many of whose reforms (including the abolition of torture) had been anticipated by the Monarchy, already condemned. It must be added that Under the Reign of Terror Protestantism was persecuted from a new point of view. Under the ancient regime, the complaint against it had been that it rejected much which ought to be believed. The Terrorists, when public worship had been abolished in France, hated it for its persistent adherence to doctrines which the enemies of religion had proscribed. Paris at present possesses numerous Protestant churches representing various Protestant sects. The Independents have six different places of worship, and the Wesleyans two, at one of which the service is performed in French, English, and German. There is a Baptist chapel, established some thirty years ago by Americans resident in Paris, a Scotch Presbyterian church, an American Episcopal church, an English Wesleyan church, and three Anglican churches. THE COLLEGE OF FRANCE. CHAPTER IX. THE UNIVERSITY OF PARIS AND THE COLLEGE OF FRANCE. The French Educational System— Lycees and Colleges-The University of Paris- The College of France. THE three principal establishments in France connected with "superior instruction " are the College of France, an independent institution where lectures free to everyone are delivered by the first literary and scientific men ofthe country ; the University of France, whose chief function is to confer degrees ; and the Sorbonne, which, when it does not mean the building of that name, is used to denote collectively the three faculties of which the Sorbonne may be considered the head quarters. As regards secondary instruction, the lyceums {lycees) are public schools maintained by the state ; the colleges (colleges), public schools supported by the municipalities throughout France. In the innumerable colleges, of which every provincial town of the least importance possesses one, the studies are absolutely ident ical ; a source of infinite satisfaction to a certain Minister of Public Instruction, who is reported one day to have exclaimed, " It is gratifying to reflect that at this moment in every college of France the opening lines of the second book of the ^Eneid are being construed." The future masters for the different lyceums and colleges are all educated in a special school known as the Ecole Normal e, founded under the First Republic, and where, according to the government order calling it into existence, the students have not only to receive instruction, but to be taught the art of imparting it. It should be noted that all the lyceums or govern ment schools are in Paris, with the exception only of the Lyceum of Versailles. As regards the localisation of schools and academies of all kinds, it will be observed that the French system is entirely opposed to the English. Our public The University of Paris.] THE FRENCH EDUCATIONAL SYSTEM. 45 schools, like our universities, are in provincial towns ; those of France are all concentrated in the capital. Up to the time of the Revolution, France had universities, many of them celebrated, at Toulouse, Montpelier, Orleans, Cahors, Angers, Orange, Perpignan, Aix,. Poi tiers, Caen, Valence, Nantes, Basancon, Bourges, Bordeaux, Angouleme, Reims, Douai, Pont-a-Mousson,Rennes, Pau, Strasbourg, and Nancy. In the year 1794 a decree of the convention suppressed at English university. But in the year just men tioned all certificates of study were abolished, and candidates for a degree had now simply to prove themselves capable of passing the re quired examination. The effect of this reform, ://'"''/r"mi"imm » "11 mi n* >i * THE LYCEE VOLTAIRE. one blow the whole of the provincial universities. The idea of one university directing all public in struction in France, and taking its orders from one central authority, the Minister of Public In struction, suited admirably the views of the first Napoleon, who maintained, with improvements of his own, the educational system introduced by the Revolution. There is now nothing in France corresponding to an English university, with its different col leges. Until the year 1850 a candidate for the degree of bachelor of arts, or bachelor of letters, was obliged to show that he had studied for at least one year in each of the two upper classes of a lyceum. ' The government lyceums thus corre spond in a certain measure to the colleges of an certainly favourable to students of limited means, was at the same time to call into existence a host of private establish ments corresponding to those of our crammers. The College of France, as already mentioned, is in no way connected with the modern University of Paris. It was toward 1530 that Francis I., at the solicitation of Guillaume Bude and Jean du Bellay, instituted, apart from the ancient uni versity, two free chairs, one for Greek, and the other for Hebrew. According to a national tradition, the university dates from Charlemagne, who in any case occupied himself with educa tional improvements and created at Paris some important schools. But the formal privileges granted to the university by the Crown can be traced only to the reign of Philippe Augustus at the very beginning of the thirteenth century. Up to that time the schools in France were dependent on the churches and monasteries ; in Paris on the metropolitan cathedral. But 4<> PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The University of Paris towards the end of the twelfth century the cathedral schools had become too small for the number of students. Thus the most celebrated masters delivered free lectures on the hill of Saint-Genevieve, where now stands the Pan theon. The students, in spite of complaints raised by the Bishop of Paris, attended the open- air lectures in crowds, and in order to regularise this relative liberation of the schools from the authority of the Church, Philippe Augustus founded, under the name of Universitas parisien- sis magistrormn et scholarum, a teaching institu tion which was independent alike of the Church and of the ordinary civil and criminal jurisdic tion. The left bank of the Seine, formerly known, and with reason, as the University bank, became more and more numerously inhabited, and was soon covered with dwelling-houses, schools, and churches. The teaching- of the Paris University was in a measure international, as is sufficiently indicated by its official division into four nations : nation of France, nation of Picardy, nation of Normandy, and nation of England, which be came nation of Germany in 1437, when Paris was at length delivered from the English domination by Charles VII. The liberal spirit in which the schools of the University of Paris were thrown open to foreigners could not fail to bear fruit. The students of all countries, hastening in those distant days to Paris, made it the intellectual capital, and at the same time the most popular city of continental Europe. In the course of less than a century were seen on the benches, or, to be literal, stand ing on the straw, of the schools of Paris, Albertus Magnus from Germany, Duns Scotus from Scot land, Raymond Lulli from Spain, Roger Bacon from England, Brunetto Latini and his pupil, Dante Alighieri, from Italy. " Eldest daughter of our Kings," was the name given to the Uni versity of Paris throughout France. The history of the Paris University, with its exclusive privileges and its special government by its own authorities, abounds in stories of dissen sions and open combats between the students and the townspeople. These town-and-gown fights were often attended by fatal results. Occasion ally too the universities had to struggle against the Church, and especially against the Order of Jesuits, the object of the Jesuits being to get everywhere into their hands the instruction of the rising generation, so that they might eradicate, at least in the future, all germs of Protestantism. The order founded by Ignatius Loyola made every endeavour to subjugate the university, which, however, refused to admit the Jesuits, even as students. But they were allowed to esta blish a college of their own; and in 1564 the rector of the university, Julien de Saint-Germain, who was well-disposed towards the Jesuits, with out consulting the different nations, admitted them to "letters of scholarity," the equivalent apparently of degrees. The University of Paris protested, and brought the question before the Parliament of Paris, which, however, came to no decision ; and thenceforward war between the university and the Jesuits was carried on with scarcely any intermission. Some idea of the life led by the professors and students of the university may be gathered from the edicts of restriction from time to time issued in connection with the institution. Under Henry IIL, when the discipline of the university had somewhat declined, the use of any language for teaching purposes except Latin was forbidden. The members of colleges were no longer to have women in their service, and from all colleges fencing-masters were to be excluded. The uni versity, with some hesitation, took part against the Reformation ; but after the victory of Henry IV., it sent a deputation to wait upon him, and while expressing its regret for any annoyance it might have caused him, joined with him in declaring war against the Jesuits, whom he hated, regarding them as the promoters of more than one of the attempts made against his life. The Jesuits were now banished from France, but at the same time new statutes were given to the university, by one of which it was forbidden to receive any student who did not belong to the Catholic religion. Other statutes proscribed dancing, fencing, and acting. In 1603 the king permitted the return ofthe Jesuits on certain conditions which they were not likely to observe. Under the reign of Louis XIV. the struggle between the university and the Jesuits was particularly severe ; and to an " apologia" issued by a friend of the Order the theological faculty of the university replied in these terms : — " The whole Church looks upon you as usurpers of the power of its pastors ; all your actions are attempts against the sanctity of their character. You disparage them in the pulpit, you defame them in your books, you attack them in general, and slander them in particular. The years of your society can be counted by your con tinual rebellions against the successors of the apostles ; you rise up against them in conspiracy and the College of France,] THE COLLEGE DE FRANCE. 47 and with arrogance." Nevertheless the Jesuits, when one of them became confessor to the king, regained credit and favour, and gave to their college the name of Louis the Great. Under Louis XIV. an edict regulated the teaching of law in the university, and ordered that Roman law and French law should be taught the history to a close du Plessis, founded by Geoffroi du Plessis, secre tary to King Philippe the Long in 1517, enlarged in the seventeenth century by Richelieu, however, drawing concurrently. Already, of this institution was the " Eldest daughter of the Kings " was destined not to survive the fall of the monarchy. A decree of the Convention dated March 20, 1794, sup pressed the University of Paris, together with the nu merous pro vincial uni versities which had existed up to this time. Of France's three great teaching institutions, the College de France is the youngest. To return for a moment to this establishment. Its professors, to the number of twenty-eight, teach the language and literature of mediaeval France, the Greek language and literature, Latin prose and Latin verse, the Hebrew, Chaldaic, Syriac, Arabic, Persian, and Turkish literatures, the Sanscrit and Chinese languages and literatures, the lan guage and literature ofthe Slavonians, the modern languages and literature of Western Europe ; history, morality, and the law of nations ; com parative legislation and political economy, archae ology, mathematics, astronomy, general and ex perimental physics, medicine, chemistry, the natural history of organic and inorganic bodies, .and comparative embryogeny. Among the cele brated lecturers of the College of France may be mentioned, in modern times, Michelet, Quinet, Mickiewicz, the Polish poet (who here delivered an admirable, if at times somewhat mystical,' series of lectures on the Slavonians), and finally Renan. Just opposite the College of France is the Col lege du Plessis. " From my window at the College of France," says M. Renan, in the preface to his " Abbesse de Jouarre," " I witness daily the fall, stone by stone, of the last walls of the College and in the eighteenth one of the centres of the best philosoph ical culture. There Turgot, the greatest man in our history, received his education from the Abbe Sigorgne, the first in France to grasp perfectly the ideas of Newton. The College du Plessis was closed in 1790. In 1793 and 1794 it became the saddest of the Paris prisons. There the " suspects '' were confined, condemned in a sense beforehand ; whence they only issued in order to go to the revolutionary tribunal or to death. I often try to imagine the language these walls, now torn open by the builders engaged in 48 PARIS, OLD AND NEW. [The University of Paris. reconstruction, must have heard ; those grass- plots whose last trees have just been cut down. I think of the conversations which must have been held in those large halls of the ground floor during the hours immediately preceding the summons ; and I have conceived a series of dialogues which, if I wrote them, I should call ' Dialogues of the Last Night.' The hour of death is essentially philosophical ; at that hour everybody speaks well, every one is in the presence of the Infinite, and is not tempted to make phrases. The con dition of good dialogue is the sincerity of the personages. Now, the hour of death is the most sincere — when one approaches death in happy circumstances, entirely oneself, that is to say ; sound in mind and body, without previous debilitation. The work I now offer the public is probably the only one of this series that I shall execute." .__