EdoL. SjJ,

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THE

LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN

SUMMER AND AYIKTEE JOUENEYS
THROUGH
SWEDEN, NOEWAY, LAPLAND, AND
NORTHEEN FINLAND.

with dl.scriptions of the inner ufe of the people, their
Manners and customs, the primitive
antiquities, etc.

By PAUL B. DU CHAILLU,
AUTHOE OF
"explorations in EQCATOKIAL AFKICA," ''A JOUKNEY TO ASHANGO LAND,'' ETC.

IN TWO YOLUMES.— Vol. II.
WITH MAP AND 235 ILLUSTRATIONS.
THIRD EDITION.

LONDON:
JOHN MUEEAY, ALBEMAELE STEEET
1882.
The right of Translation is reserved.

Ed a 81 I

LONDON:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, Limited,
STAMFOKD STEEET AND CHARING CROSS.

CONTENTS OF VOL. IL

CHAPTER I.
Winter. — In the North a Sunless Sky. — Short Days in the South. — Beautiful
Nights. — ^A Snow-storm on the Norwegian Coast. — Making the Land. — Chris-
tiansand. — ^Ferder Light-house. — Christiania Fjord. — Fog. — Slow Travelling. —
Ice in the Fjord. — Christiania in Winter ... ... . . Page 1
CPIAPTER II.
Christmas. — Festive Preparations before the Holidays.— Christmas-eve. — Feeding
the Birds. — Even Animals are more Bountifully Fed. — Early Christmas Morn
ing. — Some strange Old Customs. — The Festival in Christiania. — Dancing Round
the Christmas-tree. — Distribution of Presents. — The Author is not Forgotten. —
The End of the First Day . . ... 4
CHAPTER III.
Departure from Christiania. — ^Fog on the Mjbsen. — A Small Sleigh. — Paterfamilias
ready to Start. — Mild Weather. — Little Snow. — Rain. — Gudbrandsdal. — The
Church of Dovre, Toftemoen. — An Historical Farm. — Supper at Toftemoen. —
New-year's Day. — The Church. — The Reception at Tofte. — Third Venerable
Pedigree. — An Ancient Farm and Saga. — King Harald Haarfager at Tofte in the
Year 860.— Snefrid.— The Maids of Tofte.— Ancient Houses.— The Author's
Quarters. — Habits of Gudbrandsdal Farmers. — A Jolly Evening. — Bonde Pride.
— Numerous old Drinking-vessels. — A Surprise-party. — The Thirteenth Day of
Yule. — Han-s. — Selsjord Farm. — A Damsel-party. — Gudbrandsdal's Beauties. — A
Jealous Girl. — Reception at Skjena. — ^Ronnog. — Andresse. — End of all Festiv
ities ... 10
CHAPTER IV.
Christiania to Stockholm by Rail. — Mild Winter. — ^No Snow. — Stockholm in Win
ter. — Double Windows. — Swedish Porcelain Stoves. — Highway to the North. —
Departure for the North. — A Pleasant Companion. — Snow-storm. — Beauty of the
Snow-clad Pine Forests. — Deep Snow. — Slow Travelling. — Meeting the Mail-coach.
— Sundsvall. — Comfortable Quarters. — Aland. — The Jagmastare. — ^A Great Nim
rod. — A Pleasant Family. — A Lovely Maiden. — Regulations after a Snow-storm..

VI CONTENTS.
— Losing the Track. — Intelligent Horses. — The Snow Increasing. — Snow-ploughs
and Snow-rollers. — UmeS. — Innertafle. — A Hearty Welcome. — Great Changes in
Temperature.— Crowded Relay - stations. — Innervik.— SkellefteS  A Town with
many Pretty Young Ladies. — Piteft. —Aurora Boreahs. — Winter in a Small Town.
— Singing Clubs. — Jemton Relay-station. — Kivijarvi. — Nikkala. — Less Snow go
ing North. — Arrival at Haparanda  Page 33
CHAPTER V.
Winter between the Gulf of Bothnia and the Arctic Sea. — Leaving Haparanda. —
A Wind-storm. — A Female Driver. — A Welcome Station. — Winter Dress of Fin-
landers. — Cold Weather. — Clear Atmosphere. — A Humble Cottage. — Wilhelmina.
— Sugar-crackers.— Niemis again. — A rather Strong Welcome. — Cow-houses. —
Ruskola. — Carl John Grape. — A Terrible Storm. — A Rich Servant-girL — Snow-
shoes. — Learning how to go on Snow-shoes. — A Cold Church. — Pirtiniemi. — An
Old Friend. — Sattajarvi and its Kindly People. — A Female Companion. — Elsa
Karolina. — On the Frozen Munio. — ^Arkawaara. — A Night at Muonionalusta. —
The Lovers. — Welcomed once more to Muoniovaara  ... 51
CHAPTER VI.
Winter Scene at Muoniovaara. — Laplanders. — Lapp Winter Costume. — Lapp
Shoes. — Head-dress. — Gloves. — Learning how to drive Reindeer. — The differ
ent Lapp Sleighs. — Reindeer Harness. — Difficulty of balancing One's Self in a
Lapp Sleigh. — How to drive Down-hill. — How Reindeer are taken Care of. — My
first Drive. — Great Speed, — Upset going Down-hill. — Departure for a Laplander's
Camp. — A not very Graceful Start. — My Reindeer runs away without Me. — ^A
Reindeer's Gait. — The Noise they make. — A Laplander's Kata in Winter. —
Reception. — Preparing the Evening Meal. — A Night with the Lapps. — Cold
Weather.^ — Killing a Reindeer. — Hardships of the Laplanders. — Training Rein
deer. — Their Speed. — Departure from Muoniovaara  69
CHAPTER VII.
Friendly Feelings between Finns .and Lapps. — Towards Karesuando. — Kalkesuaan-
to. — A Finnish Lansman. — A Blunder. — In Search of a Rich Laplander. — An Ugly
Tract. — Reindeer Diggings.— A Useless Drive. — Discovering a Reindeer Herd.
— Coming to an Encampment. — On Forbidden Ground. — A Strange Landscape. 
Every Reindeer in a Hole. — Karesuando. — ^A Cold Place. — Towns. — Churches in
Lapland. — Lapps at Church. — Costumes. — Lapland Girls. — An Old Lapp. — A
Lapp School. — Religious E.xamination. — Torne Lappmark. — Winter the Travel
ling Season. — Strength of Reindeer ... . §4
CHAPTER VIII.
Departure from Karesuando. — The Lapp Pchr. — Vuokainen. — Large Numbers of
Travellers. — An Obstinate Reindeer. — A Runaway. — A Lapp Woman comes to
my Help. — Lost for awhile. — Arrival at Sikavuopio. — Shelter House of Muk-
kavuoma.— A great Storm.— Making Ourselves Comfortable.— Ready to Cross the
Mountain Range. — Preparing for the Worst. — A Perfect Hurricane. — Sufferings.
— A Mask of Ice.— We come to a Halt.- Continuing the Journey. — Down the

CONTENTS. vii
Hills. — Great Speed of Reindeer. — Thrown out of the Sleigh. — In a Predicament.
— Reindeer on the Ice. — Deep soft Snow. — Reindeer exhausted with Fatigue. —
Preparations before going down a Steep Gorge.— Dangerous Descent. — Helligs-
koven. — Another great Storm. — Arrival on the Norwegian Coast. — SUibotten. —
The Fair. — The Lyngen Fjord. — The Hamlet of Lyngen. — A Parsonage. — District
Doctors. — Hard Life of a Doctor. — The City of Tromso ... . Page 100
CHAPTER IX.
The Lofoden Islands. — Their Picturesque Appearance. — The Voyage from Tromso.
— A Magnificent Sunset. — The Raftsund. — Svolvaer. — Thousands of Fishing-boats.
— Migration of Cod. — Henningavser. — A Great Fishing-place. — A Kind Merchant.
— Lofoden Hospitality. — Care of the Norwegian Government over the Fisher
men. — ^Hospitals. — Fishing Regulations. — Telegraphs. — Comfortable Clothing of
Fishermen. — The Finmarken Boats. — The Start. — Return. — Price of Cod. —
Cleaning the Cod. — Fishing Lapps. — Going after Cod. — Signal for Departure. —
The Fishing-grounds. — Net-fishing. — An Afternoon with the Fishermen. — Line-
fishing. — A Kind Woman. — Stamsund. — Manufacture of Cod -liver Oil. — Rev
erence of Fishermen for God. — A Sunday at Church. — A Worthy Pastor. — Love-
making on Sunday Afternoon. — Departure from Lofoden . ... 115
CHAPTER X.
Climate of Scandinavia. — The Gulf-stream. — Temperature of the Sea. — Summer
Heat. — A Temperate Strip of Land. — Prevalent Winds. — Table Showing the
Temperature beyond the Arctic Circle. — Highest Temperature on the Norwegian
Coast. — The Coldest and Warmest Months. — Number of Rainy and Snowy Days.
— ^Foggy Days. — ^Thunder-storms. — Temperature of Northern and Southern Swe
den. — Temperature of the Wells. — Fall of Rain in Sweden. — General Remarks
on the Temperature between Haparanda, Stockholm, Petersburg, Copenhagen,
Christiansund, Yarmouth, and Valentia  ....135
CHAPTER XI.
NORDLAND, TROMSO, AND FINMARKEN PROVINCES.
The three Northern Provinces of Norway. — The Wildest Scenery on the Coast. —
Population. — ^Products of the Soil. — Occupation of the People. — Fishing. — Great
Number of Fishermen. — Homes on the Coast. — Steamers everywhere. — Impor
tance of the Cod-fisheries. — Number of Cod caught. — The Herring-fisheries. —
Number of Men employed. — Spring Fisheries. — Migraticm of the Herring. — How
Herring are caught. — Immense Catch of Herring. — Summer Fisheries. — Number
of Herring caught.— The Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla Fisheries. — ^A Sea-faring
People. — Norwegian and Swedish Mercantile Navy  143
CHAPTER XII.
Continuous Snow-storms. — Difficult Navigation. — Ports of Refuge.— Hammerfest in
Winter. — The Magero Sound. — Fishing Settlements on Magero. — Immense Num
ber of Birds. — The Laxe Fjord.— Finkirken.-Cape Nordkyn. — Vardo.— An Old
Fort.— Reception at tho Fort.— Vadso.— Religious Excitement.— The Catching of

viii CONTENTS.
Bait.— Finns in Vadso.— Long Days coming.— The Varanger Fjord.— Remark
able Vegetation and Forests.— The Norwegian and Russian Boundary. — Nyborg.
—An Obliging Lensmand. — No Remdeer to be had.— Lapp Houses . Page 152
CHAPTER XIII.
Lapland.— Extent of the Country.— Swedish and Norwegian Lapland. — Character
of the Country. — Moss Tracts. — Summer and Winter Wanderings. — The Life of
the Mountain Lapp. — Population of Lapland. — Numbers of Reindeer. — Size of
Herds.— Honesty of the Laplander.— His Severe Training.— Hard Life. — ^Physical
Structure of the Lapps. — Fine Climate of Lapland. — Diseases of the Country. —
Long Life of some Lapps. — Food. — -Contentment of the Lapps  165
CHAPTER XIV.
The Different Classes of Lapps. — The Mountain or Nomad Lapp. — The Sea Lapp.
— Dwellings of Sea Lapps. — Appearance and Dress of Sea Lapps. — The River
Lapp. — His Mode of Living. — The Forest Lapp. — Dwelling of a Forest Lapp. —
His Way of Life. — Fisher Lapps. — Habits of Fisher Lapps. — The Njalla. —
Lapp Villages ....  ¦ IW
CHAPTER XV.
Departure from Varanger Fjord. — On the Way Southward. — Little Suow by the
Sea. — Meeting Laplanders. — No Reindeer. — Polmak. — The Tana River. — Good
bye to the Lensmand of Nyborg. — Reindeer Coming. — Leave Polmak. — Sirma. —
Difficulties of Travelling in the Spring. — The Reindeer Weak. — Slow Speed. — A
Dangerous Start. — Upsetting. — Travelling on the Tana. — Utsjoki. — Dirty Quar
ters on the Way. — Segelnies. — The Karasjoki River. — Arrival at Karasjok. — Com
fortable Quarters. — Friends in Need. — No Reindeer to be Had. — The Karasjok
Lapps. — Forests. — Variations of Temperature. — A Funeral . ... ITS
CHAPTER XVI.
Out of a Dilemma. — Reindeer procured. — Nils Piersen Gjusjavre. — Leave Karas
jok. — An Unruly Reindeer. — Travelling on the Karasjoki. — Assebagli. — Sleep on
the Snow. — Difficult Driving. — Gjusjavre.^Nils's Hospitality. — Good-bye to
Gjusjavre. — A Warm Sun. — Deep Snow. — Birch-trees in Bloom. — Lapps' En
campments. — An Interesting Conversation. — Lapps in the United States. — The
Alten River.— Birki. — Kautokeino in Winter. — The Place crowded. — Moving
Season. — Toilet of Baby Lapps. — Herds of Reindeer, — A Fine Sight. — Reindeer
and Lapps. — Departure from Kautokeino. — G.arae on the Way, — Suajiirvi. —
Arrival at and Departure from Karesuando. — A Hearty Welcome at Kuttaineu.
— Songamuodka. — An Honest Fellow. — Arrival at Pajala. — The First Rain of
the Year ..... ISS
CHAPTER XVII.
Primitive Customs. — "Evil to Him who Evil thinks." — An Arcadian People. — The
Sauna or Badstuga. — The Custom of Bathing every Saturday, — ^ly First Steam-
bath. — A Remarkable Sight, — Running for the Badstuga, — Inside the Badstugn,
— Terrible Heat. — Raising more .Steam. — Cold Water. — Flagellating each othir.

CONTENTS. ix
— Leaving the Badstuga. — The Dehghtful Sensation in the Cold Air. — Roll
ing on the Snow. — Back to the Farra, — Visitors to my Room. — A Primitive
Scene .   . . Page 205
CHAPTER XVIII.
The Advent of Spring within the Polar Circle. — Rapid Transition. — Farmers busy.
— ^Whit-Sunday. — Emotional Religion in Church. — At Sattajarvi once more. —
Whit-Monday. — A Warm Welcome. — Leave Sattajarvi. — Touching Parting. — ¦
The Farm of Varra Perrai. — Welcome Back everywhere. — A Fine Singer. — End
of the Winter Journey. — Arrival at Haparanda .  .212
CHAPTER XIX.
Dalecarlia. — Remarkable Characteristics of the Dalecarlians. — Independence of the
People.— Their Beautiful Traits.— Their Simple Life.— Children Tolls.— Falun.
— The Copper-mines. — Reception by the Governor. — A General Letter of Intro
duction to the People. — From Falun to Leksand. — Thrifty Small Farms. — The
Crowded Inn at Leksand. — A Friend in Need.— A Cordial Reception at Broms. —
Superb Specimens of Manhood. — Costume of Leksand .... ... 216
CHAPTER XX.
Midsummer in Sweden. — Gala Appearance all over the Country. — The Majstang, or
May-pole. — Where to be on a Midsummer-day. — Midsummer by Lake Siljan. —
The Boats coming towards the Church. — ^The People flocking to Church. — An
Impressive Sight. — Communion-service. — Babies in Church. — A Special Room
for Babies. — A Large Parish. — Leaving the Church. — The Parsonage at Lek
sand. — Akero. — The Farm of Knubb. — A Characteristic Room. — Going to the
Fair. — On a little Steamer.- — Good-natured Folks. — Mora. — A Crowded Inn. —
Comfortable Quarters at a Farm. — The Parish Church of Mora. — A Represen
tation of the Devil. — Utmeland a Sacred Spot. — The Mora Costume. — The Fair.
—The Crowded Booths. — The Goldsmiths' Booths. — Warm Weather. — ^A Coun
try Show. — A Tame Bear. — A Lull at the Fair.— The People Feeding. — Love-
making. — A Hilarious Crowd. — The End of the Fair .  224
CHAPTER XXI.
A Wedding in Dalecarlia. — Arrival at Westanor. — Welcome at Liss. — Preparations
for a Wedding. — The Larder well stocked. — Drinkables abundant. — The Bride
groom and the Bride. — Great Number of Guests. — Lodging the Guests. — My
Quarters. — Dressing the Bride. — Leaving for the Church. — The Procession. —
Imposing Sight in the Church. — Many Bride'smaids.— The Nuptial Ceremony. —
Return to Westanor. — Congratulating the Bride and Bridegroom. — The First
Meal. — Dancing. — A Lull. — A Week of Festivities. — End of the Wedding-feast.
— Giving Presents to the Bride  . . .... 234
CHAPTER XXII.
Again in Dalecarlia. — On the Road to Orsa. — Pleasant Travelling Companions. —
Lof Kistin. — Vangsgiirde. — Skradder Anders. — Welcomed at Kaplans.— Palack.
— Marts. — The Church Hamlet of Orsa. — Consequences of giving a Gold Ring. —

X CONTENTS,
Costume of Orsa. — Daleoarlian Names. — The Church of Orsa. — A Handsome
People. — Exquisite Complexion of the Young Women. — Orsa a Poor Parish. —
The Stock of a Farm. — Hamlets away from the High-road. — My First Introduc
tion among them. — We are great Friends. — Their Loving Letters. — Their great
Kindness. — Three Friends. — Large Numbers of Widows. — The Farm of Guns. —
Leaving for the Fabodar ... .  Page 242
CHAPTER XXHI.
The Fabodar or Saeters of Sweden. — Wild Pastures of Dalecarha. — The Dalecar-
hans' Fabodar. — Girls following the Cattle. — Departure for a Fabod. — On the
Road. — Arrival at Hemrasen. — Life at the Fabodar. — Life by the Swamp-mead
ows. — Aker Jonas Fabod. — A Sunday at Rattvik. — Bright and Picturesque
Costume of Rattvik. — Social Enjoyments. — Eskasen. — Departure . . 264
CHAPTER XXrV.
North-western Dalecarlia. — Leaving Orsa for Norway. — Garberg. — ^Eltdal and its
Porphyry Works.— The Election of a Pastor. — Contrast between the Elfdal and
Orsa People. — Asen. — From Asen to Sarna. — Crossing the Elfdal River. — In the
Woods. — A Storm. — ^A Leaking Roof. — A Fabod. — Mosquitoes. — Grund Olof. —
Kistin and Charlotte. — Solitary Farms. — Sama. — The Church at Sarna. — ^Remains
of Primitive Church Customs. — Jealousy of Parishes or of Provinces. — The last
Hamlet of Western Dalecarha. — Reception by the Pastor. — End of the Carriage
Road. — Going to Roros. — A Boggy and Forest Tract. — The Elg-sjo. — ^An Aged
Rower. — Storbo-sjo. — Meeting Fishermen. — F16tning-sj6. — Attempt at Extortion.
— The Faemund-sjo. — Comfortable Quarters. — Old Torbert Mikkelssen. — ^An Old
Farm-house. — On the Faemund-sjb.— Rbros  259
CHAPTER XXV.
Old Farm -buildings. — Great DurabiUty of Norwegian Log-houses. — Antiquity of
many Norwegian Farms. — Runic Inscriptions found upon Houses. — Primitive
Fireplaces. — Houses without Chimneys. — The Rbgovn the next most Primitive
Fireplace. — Introduction of Chimneys. — The Pels, another Form of Fireplace-
Improvements in Buildings. — New Forms of Houses. — The Nystue, or New
House. — Increase of Buildings on a Farm. — Different Use of Houses. — Introduc
tion of Corridors and Covered Piazzas. — Great Care m the Construction of
Houses.— The Ramloft House. — The Barfrb House. — The Opstugu House. — Age
of some Ancient Stone Churches. — An Old House in Valders. .... 271
CHAPTER XXVI.
The Hedal. — The Farm of Slette. — The ancient Farm of Bjblstad. — Buildings on
Bjolstad. — Tokens of Centuries Past. — Ancient Rights of Farmers.— Ivor Tofte.
— Life at Bjolstad. — How Servants are Paid. — Saturday's Work. — Sunday at
Bjolstad. — Departure from Bjblstad ... . .  285
CHAPTER XXVII.
The Ottadal. — A Region with Old Farm-houses, — Old Building's on the Farm of
Sandbo. — A Kind-hearted Doctor aud his Wife. — The Vaage Lake.  The Tr^.^ie

CONTENTS. xi
Falls. — The Farm of Haakenstad. — Ascending the Valley. — The Church of
Gardmo. — King St. Olaf and Thorgeir. — Why Thorgeir built the Church. — St.
Olaf s Iron Bracelet. — Old Paintings. — One of the Descendants of Thorgeir. — The
Church of Lom. — The Loms Eggen. — The Hard Winter of 1868. — Snow Ava
lanches. — An Historical Region. — The Olaf Saga. — How St. Olaf converted the
People to Christianity. — The Ramloft House on the Farm of Lokkre . Page 293
CHAPTER XXVIII.
The Wildest and Highest Mountain Region in Norway. — Height of some of the
Peaks. — Difference between Swiss and Norwegian Mountains. — To Jotun Moun
tain. — The Bjeverdal. — Protection against Avalanches. — From the Visdal to
Galdhbpiggen. — View from Galdhbpiggen. — The Leiradal. — The Lang Lake. —
The Gjendin Lake. — Its Scenery. — The Bes and Rus Lakes. — The Bygdin Lake.
— A Hunting Region. — Lake Tyen. — ^A Snow-storm. — In a Predicament. — Ap
pearance of Fishermen. — Deserted Saeters. — End of the Journey .... 302
CHAPTER XXIX.
Large Swedish Estates. — Fine Chateaux. — ^Art Treasures. — Spoils of the Thirty
Years' War. — Knight's Hall. — Simplicity of Life. — ^Lake Malar. — Drottningholm
and its Paintings. — Drottningholm Park. — The Island of Bjorkb. — An Ancient
Place. — The Palace of Gripsholm. — A Magnificent Portrait-gallery. — Historical
Faces.— Sad Tales of Gripsholm.— Erik XIV.— The Town of Strengnas.— The
Home of Axel Oxenstjerna. — The Jader Church. — ^Eskilstuna. — The Hjelmar
Lake. — Orebro. — Engelbrekt. — ^Vesteras. — Strbmsholm Canal. — Sigtuna. — ^Val
uable Treasures. — Relics of the Thirty Years' War. — The Province of Sbderman-
land. — Wingfiiker. — Chateaux of Stora Sundby and Safstahohn  308
CHAPTER XXX.
Across Sweden by Water. — Interesting Water-route. — The Gota Canal. — ^From the
Malar to the Baltic. — Osmo Church. — Sbderkoping. — Lake Roxen. — Ruins of
Stjernarp. — Wreta Church. — Tombs of the Tenth Century. — The Boren Lake. —
The Estate of Ulf4sa. — A Story of the Past. — Lake Wettern or Vettern. — The
Town of Vadstena. — The Cloister of Vadstena. — St. Birgitta. — Its Monks. — High
Birth of its Nuns. — The Church of Vadstena. — Tomb of Queen Philippa of Eng
land and others. — Bo Jonsson. — Immense Wealth of Bo Jonsson. — Karl Niklas-
son. — His Death. — Bo Jonsson's Tomb. — The Castle of Vadstena.— Alvastra. —
Jbnkbping, Grenna. — Visingsb Island. — From Carlsbor^ Inland. — Lake Viken.
— Lake Ymsen. — Scandinavia's largest Lake. — Towns on the Wenern. — The
Church of R4da-Karlstad. — The Iron-works of Uddeholms. — Kinnekulle. — The
Chateau of Borstorp. — Ancient Jewels. — The Church of Husaby. — Olaf Skbt-
konung. — KoUandso. — The Falls of Trollhattan. — Terminus of the Canal. . 330
CHAPTER XXXI.
The Provinces of Halland and Bohuslan. — Rivers abounding with Salmon. — Halm-
stad. — Bohuslan. — An Ancient Viking Place. — Its numerous Relics of the Stone,
Bronze, and Viking Ages. — Extensive Fishing. — Bathing-places on the Coast. —
Sarb, — Life at Sarb. — Marstrand. — A Fashionable Bathing Resort . 367

Xll CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXXII.
The Province of Ostergbtland. — Risinge Church. — An Historical Battle-field. — The
City of Norrkoping. — The largest Manufacturing Town in Sweden. — How the
Artisans live. — Comfortable Dwellings, — The Iron-works of Finspong. — Laws
concerning the Employment of the Young. — Intelligent Citizens. — Fine Schools.
— Interesting Ceremony at closing of Schools. — Teachers' Sociable . Page 372
CHAPTER XXXIII.
The Schools of Sweden. — Fine Buildings. — Regulations. — Teaching considered a
High Calling. — How Teachers are regarded. — Respect shown to Governesses. —
Compulsory Education since 1842. — Large Attendance of Children in Schools. —
Number of School-houses. — Studies in the different Grades of Schools. — Gym
nastic aud Military Exercises. — Standard of Studies before entering some of the
Schools. — A Small Fee required for some Schools. — How Schools are supports
ed. — Ambulatory Schools. — Supervision over Schools. — Professional and Trade
Schools. — Seminaries to prepare Male and Female Teachers. — Industrial Schools.
— Technical Schools. — Institutions for the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind. — The Agri
cultural Colleges. — The Schools of Norway. — Universities of Sweden and Norway.
— Scientific Institution of Learning   378
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Linkbping. — Its Cathedral. — A Water-way through South Ostergbtland.— Superb
Trees. — Atvidaberg. — A Night Watchman. — The Estate of Adelsnas. — A Pleas
ant Welcome. — The Manor of Adelsnas. — Unpretending Life. — Our Host and
Hostess. — The Copper-mines of Atvidaberg. — Wages of Miners. — The Miners'
Homes. — Kindly Manners towards the Artisans. — Politeness to Inferiors, — The
Village Dancing-place. — Good Feelings. — A School for the Miners' Children. 392
CHAPTER XXXV.
The Province of Smaland. — A Thrifty Population. — Vcxib. — Poor Stations. — Gam-
leby. — Westervik. — Visits at the Parsonage. — A Festive Occasion. — A Concert
by Ladies. — Oscarshamn. — Kalmar. — A Holiday. — Bad Temper of the People. —
A Beautiful Highway. — Grand Beech and Oak Trees. — Great Variety of Mush
rooms. — Poor Food at the Stations. — The Churches of Hagby and Voxtorp. —
Nearing Blekinge . . 399
CHAPTER XXXVI.
The Island of Oland. — The Church of Albbke. — Relics of Ancient Times. — The
Village of Borgholm. — Imposing Ruins of Borgholm Castle. — Karl Gustaf. — The
Queen's Farm. — Proud Karin. — Celebrating the Advent of Spring. — Song wel
coming the Spring ..... . 408
CHAPTER XXXVII.
The Province of Blekinge. — Opening the Road-gates. — Love for Flowers. — Clean
Cottages, — The Sin of wasting Bread. — The Horror of Perjury. — Women working
iu the Fields.- The Custom of Betrothal.— A Happy Population.— The Dance of

CUSTENTS. xiii
the Elves, — A Beautiful Vision. — About the Elves. — A Charming Night. — The
Ball of the Trees. — A Happy Maiden, — Songs. — Not so Primitive a People. —
Karlskrona. — The Swedish Navy. — The Nettraby River . Page 415
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
The Village of Ronneby. — A Celebrated Spa. — Life of the Patients at the Spring, —
The Resident Physician, — A Mud-bath. — A Committee of Amusements. — Hotel
or Club Fare. — Djupadal, — The Manufacture of Wood Pulp. — A Strange Yearly
Custom of Ronneby. — Drunkenness on Saturdays. — A Legend of Two Giants. —
A Viking Burial-ground. — Karlshamn. — Funeral Ceremonies. — Family Notices
of the Death of Relatives. — A Place where People killed themselves in Viking
Days. — Valsjb. — A Delightful Retreat. — Fine Beech-trees. — A Lovely Ramble, —
A Family Collation. — Leave Valsjb   430
CHAPTER XXXIX.
The Province of Sk3,ne, or Scania. — The Garden of the Peninsula of Scandinavia.
— Chateaux. — Ancestral Homes. — Mild Climate. — Fine Farms. — Peculiar Con
struction of the Houses. — Character of the Scanians. — Diet of Farmers. — Names
given to Females and Males. — TroUe Ljungby. — An Old Drinking-horn and
Whistle. — Interesting Legends. — Lake Ifb. — Its Chateaux. — Ahus. — Christian-
stad. — The Estate of R&belbf. — A Fruitful Garden. — Great Numbers of Birds. —
How Farm-hands are Paid. — Law concerning Master and Servant. — Home Life
on a Large Estate. — Estates in the Neighborhood of Christianstad. — ^Ystad. —
Chateaux around Ystad  . . . 441
CHAPTER XL.
A flat, low Coast. — Skanbr and Falstebo. — Their Antiquity. — Malmb. — City Hall
of Malmb. — Guilds in. Northern Europe. — Malmb Castle. — Landskrona. — The
Island of Hven. — Birthplace of Tycho Brahe. — Helsingborg. — A Beautiful
Neighborhood. — Castles, Chateaux. — The Coal-mines of Hbganas. — The Univer
sity Town of Lund. — Cathedral of St. Lars. — Estates around Lund. — Ortofta, —
Skarhult. — Lbberbd. — Trollenas. — TroUeholm. — The Promontory of KuUen. —
A Fine View. — Leaving Scandinavia. — Farewell  . . 457

LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS IN VOL. IL

FAGE
Reindeer  Frontispiece
A Christmas Scene  4
Starting ou a Journey  11
A Droll Scene  12
Old Monntain Station of Hjerkin  15
Old Drinking-hom  24
Wooden Tankard  25
Silver-mounted Pitcher  25
OBcar II  34
Porcelain Stove  36
The Snow-plough  43
A Lapp going Down -hill on Snow-
shoes  58
Walking with Snow-shoes  59
Lapp Winter Costume  70
Interior of a Kata in Winter  77
A Winter Encampment  79
Eeindeer Digging in the Snow  86
Sorsele Lapp Gii'ls and Boy  91
Asele Lapp Woman— Front View  94
Asele Lapp Woman — Side View  95
Arjeploug Lapp (Twenty -flve Years of
Age)  96
Jokkmoliik Lapp (Twenty-four Tears of
Age)  97
Travelling in Lapland in a Storm  105
Going down a Steep Decline  109
Fishing Settlement on Lofoden  117
FishinK-statlon of Henningsvaer  122
Eider-duck  123
Sea-temperature iu Decemher, January,
and February  136
Sea - temperature in March, April, and
May  136
Sea-temperature in Jnne, July, and Au
gust  137
Sea-temperature in September, October,
and November  137

PAGE
A Stone and Sod Gamme  163
The Pasvig  Hi
Lapp Gamme, or Soil Hut  174
Dwelling-place of Forest Lapps between
Seutner and Jerfojaur, in Arvidsjaur. . . 175
Dwelling of a Fishing Lapp Family  176
Nj alia  176
Street in the Village of Arvidsjaur, Pite
Lappmark  177
Karasjok Lapps  185
Lapp Cradle  196
Norwegian Lapp  198
Eeindeer and Pack, with Lapp Driver . . . 202
Lapp Summer Shoes  203
Mora Winter Costume  222
Outside the Church at Leksand  226
The Omasstuga  231
A Eattvik Fabod  257
A Home Scene in Eattvik  258
ESraas  265
Fire-house, with Aare (Hearth)  213
Eogovn (Smoke-oven). Fireplace with
out Chimney  274
Old Pais in a House in Sogne  275
Stabbnr in Eingerike, with Galleries  277
Osterdal Barfr5 Stue  279
An Opstugn  279
Bedloft House in Yalders  281
Pig. 1.— Front  282
" 2.— Back  282
" 3  End  283
Arrangement of Beds in the Stne (House)
at Mandal  283
Bjolstad  286
Court-yard at Sandbo, in Vaage  293
House at Sandbo  294
Side View of Honse at Sandbo  296
Storvik, near Vaage Lake  296

XVI

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE
Front of Eamloft House at Lokkre  300
Eenr of Eamloft House at Lokkre  301
Gripsholm  313
Aspo Church, on the Island of Toste-
ro  318
Seal of Toi-shalla.— St. Olaf in a Boat .... 319
Arboga Church  320
Orebro Church  321
Knntby Church, in Upland  326
Stora Sundby, iu Sodermauland  328
Eriksberg  328
Ship carrying St. Erik to Finland  331
Slab over the Grave of Lagman Birger
Persson aud his Wife, Ingeborg  335
Slab over the Grave of Queen Philippa . . 338
Vadstena Church  340
Interior of Vadstena Church  341
Eefectory in Vadstena Cloister  342
Crucifix, carved in Wood, in Vadstena
Church  343
Bo Jonsson's Coat-of-arras  345
Slab over the Grave of Bo Jonsson and
his Son  346
Vadstena Castle— Land Side  348
Vadstena Castle— Lake Side  348
Kallstad Church, about Sis Miles south
of Vadstena  349
Interior of Eada Church, Vermland  353
View on Dalslands Canal  354
Borstorp, in Vestergotland  355
Eelic Shrine of Wood, covered with Era-
bossed aud Gilded Copper, frora the
End of the Twelfth Century— Eriks-
berga Church  356

PAGE
Eepresentation of the Crucifixion on a
Cabinet, Osteraker Church, Uphmd.... 357
Baptisraal Font of Stone from Norum
Church  358
Wooden Door of Versas Church  359
Husaby Church  300
Tomb of Olaf Skiitkonnng  361
Husaby Church-yard, with Tombs of King
Olaf SkOtkonung and Queen Astrid  361
End View of the Tomb of King Olaf
Skotkonuug.  362
High Chancel, Halmstad Church  308
Interior of Eisinge Church  373
School-house at H;iparanda  379
Vexiii Cathedra], frora the South-west . . . 400
Coat-of-arms of King Christian I. of Den
mark, Sweden, and Norway, during the
Time of the Kalmar Union  403
Coat-of-arms of the Nipertz Family, now
extinct  404
Hagby Church  405
Plan of Hagby Church  406
Voxtorp Church and Belfry  407
Opening the Gate  416
Blekinge Maiden raking Hay  419
The Dance ofthe Elves  420
An old House in Skane, 1558  444
Ahus Church  449
Costume of Jerrestad  454
Baptismal Font of Stone in Tryde Church,
Skiine  465
Church of Skanor  458
Interior of Skanor Church  459
Ortofta  464

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER I.
Winter. — In the North a Sunless Sky. — Short Days in the South. — Beautiful
Nights. — A Snow-storm on the Norwegian Coast. — Making the Land. — Chris-
tiansand. — Ferder Light-house. — Christiania Fjord. — Fog. — Slow Travelling. —
Ice in the Fjord. — Christiania in Winter.
How great the contrast between summer and winter in
the beautiful peninsula of Scandinavia — "the Land of the
Midnight Sun !" In December, in the far North, a sunless
sky hangs over the country ; for the days of continuous sun
shine in summer there are as many without the sun appear
ing above the horizon in winter. During that time, even at
the end of December, which is the darkest period, when the
weather is clear one can read from eleven a.m. to one p.m.
without artificial light ; but if it is cloudy, or snow is falling.
lamps must be used. The moon takes the place of the sun,
the stars shine brightly, the atmosphere is pure and clear, and
the sky very blue. The aurora borealis sends its flashes and
streamers of light high up towards the zenith ; and there are
days when the electric storm culminates in a corona of gor
geous color, presenting a spectacle never to be forgotten.
I have travelled in many lauds, and within the tropics, but
I have never seen such glorious nights as those of winter in
" the Land of the Midnight Sun." The long twilights which,
farther south, make the evening and morning blend into one,
are here succeeded by long dark nights and short days.
All nature seems to be in deep repose ; the gurgling brook
is silent ; the turbulent streams are frozen ; the waves of the
lakes, upon which the rays of the summer sun played, strike
VOL. II. B

2 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
no more on the pebbled shores ; long crystal icicles hang from
the mountain - sides and ravines; the rocks upon which the
water dripped in summer appear like sheets of glass. The
land is clad in a mantle of snow, and the pines are the win
ter jewels of the landscape. Day after day the atmosphere is
so still that not a breath of wind seems to pass over the hills ;
but suddenly these periods of repose are succeeded by dark
aud threatening skies, and violent tempests. On the Norwe
gian coast fearful and terrific storms lash the sea with fury,
breaking the waves into a thousand fragments on the ragged
and rocky shores. Under the fierce winds the pines bend
their heads, and the mountain snow is swept away and to im
mense heights, hiding everything from sight.
We will wander together, kind reader, all over the land —
over snow-clad mountains, hills, and valleys, over frozen lakes
and rivers — at times drawn by those "swift carriers of the
North, the reindeer ;" we will skirt the frozen Baltic, and go as
far as the grand old cliff of Northern Europe, the North Cape.
On a dreary December day I was near the Norwegian coast,
bound for Christiania. The weather was very stormy, the
wind blowing a gale from the south-east ; snow, hail, aud sleet
feii alternately. We were nearing the desolate coast, to be
wrecked on which was sure destruction. We steamed slowly ;
the anxious and watchful eyes of the captain and of the pilot
were turned in the direction of the land, and we all listened
for the sound of the roaring breakers. We had on board, as
passengers, a dozen sturdy Norwegian captains, who were go
ing home to spend their Christmas : these men knew every
inch of the barren shore. We supposed ourselves but a few
miles from the city of Christiansand, our first stopping-place,
and every time there was a lull in the storm all eyes were
strained to get the first glimpse of the land. Just at noon
the sky cleared, and the snow-clad mountains came into full
view. The engines were stopped, to give the pilot time to
reconnoitre. It was very difficult at first to make out the
land, on account of the snow, but after a little while we found
that we were abreast of the city. The captain could not
have been more correct in his calculations ; and we finally

CHBISTIANIA IN WINTER. 3
anchored before the town, completely sheltered from the out
side sea and tlie gale.
After a short stay we left for Christiania. A marked change
had taken place in the weather, which had become much mild
er ; the wind had ceased, and it was getting foggy, so that the
voyage became tedious. Fogs are prevalent on the fjords in
winter and early spring, and days are sometimes required for
a passage which in clear weather consumes only a few hours.
We lay at the entrance of the Christiania, fjord until we saw
the light-house of Ferder, and then slowly continued our way,
stopping, slackening, or increasing the speed of the steamer as
circumstances would permit. The end of the fjord was frozen
for a few miles, the ice being nearly two feet thick ; but a pas
sage for the steamers had been kept open by means of steam
ice-boats, which are kept constantly running. The water of
Christiania fjord, on account of its position at the end of the
Skager Rack, is colder in winter than that of the other fjords
of Norway, the influence of the Gulf -stream being less felt.
Navigation is generally closed at Christiania until March,
though in very mild winters it sometimes begins later and
ends sooner, and vice versa. The vessels were dismantled and
imprisoned in the ice ; people were walking to and fro on the
frozen surface, some making their way on skates, others were
moving on kelke (a little hand-sleigh), the occupant of which
pushes himself along with two sticks, shod with pointed iron.
At times several were racing with each other, or with the
skaters, who were also going home. The men were busy cut
ting ice, a great deal of which is exported.
The city in winter has a quiet appearance, even when the
Storthing is in session and the court is present. The quays are
silent, and the numerous coasting steamers, with the loads of
passengers, are missing, the travelling season being over. The
hotels are deserted, and the amusements are few; now and
then a concert takes place, or a theatrical company makes its
appearance, and then the theatre is crowded every night. The
skating places in fair weather are filled with young people,
while children amuse tliemselves, as in America, by coasting
down the hills. „
B 2

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER II.
Christmas. — Festive Preparations before the HoUdays.— Christmas-eve. — Feeding
tfie Birds. — Even Animals are more Bountifully Fed. — Early Christmas Morn
ing. — Some strange Old Customs. — The Festival in Christiania. — Dancing Round
the Christmas-tree. — Distribution of Presents — The Author is not Forgotten. —
The End of the First Day.
Cheistmas is the greatest festival of Scandinavia. There are
no holidays to which both young and old look forward with
so much pleasure as to the days of yule — days which, in olden
times, were also celebrated by the followers of Thor and Odin.
In the cities Christmas and the following days are legal holi
days ; but it is in the country that one should witness the re
joicings. In many districts of Sweden and Norway, among
the peasants and farmers, these continue for thirteen days, and
are called the " Tretten jule dage " (thirteen days of yule).
Then, after a week's interval, come —
" Tyvende dag Knut
Danser julen ud."
(" The twentieth day Canute
Dances yule out.")
This is the best time of the year for holidays — the season
in which the farmers have very little to do, and the monot
ony of the long winter needs to be broken. The grain has
been threshed, and the products of the dairy sold. The labor
to be done is that of laying in supplies of wood and hay, the
carpenter and blacksmith work, mending the carts, and re
pairing harness and ploughs. The dairy-work is lighter than
in the summer, for the cows give but little milk, and the
amount of butter is not more than enough for the use of the
household ; the women are busy in the daily routine of weav
ing, spinning, carding, and knitting.

JOYOUS PREPARATIONS BEFORE CHRISTMAS. 5
During these days visits are interchanged, and at almost
every farm a feast or a dance is given, to which the neighbors
are invited ; frolics are devised by the young, and the time is
considered auspicious for betrothal. The more primitive the
district the greater the festivities. Wherever I wandered, after
the first week in December, I could see nothing but bustle aud
preparation for the holidays.
At this season every household vessel of ancient times is
brought out, together with strange old pottery, silver, and odd-
shaped wooden vessels and spoons — heirlooms of the family.
The stranger might well fancy, as he stands in a dimly light
ed old log-house in a remote mountain region -of Norway, and
drinks ."''cdl (a health) from an ancient tankard, that he is
among the Norsemen and Yikings of old : for many a chief
tain, bold warrior, or hunter has drunk from the same cup ;
raany a revel has taken place within the old walls; many a
silver goblet has clinked against another while men who were
the terror of many lands swore eternal friendship over their
potations. The same cup had also been used at many a
marriage-feast, a christening, or a burial. Some of them are
mounted with brass, others with silver or gold, and others,
again, are gilded ; some have Runic inscriptions, others have
none ; and some are so old that their history cannot be traced,
having probably been brought by the invading hordes from
Aaa. A few of these cups have been found in the mounds,
and others dug out of the earth.
Each hamlet and farm is busy for two or three weeks at
preparations for the daj'. Special care is taken in the brew
ing of jule ol (Christmas ale), which is stronger than that
used at other times. A great part of the hops that have grown
on the little patch by the house has been reserved specially
for this occasion ; or they have been bought long before, and
carefully kept by the wife. Such a quantity is brewed that
there is no fear that it will give out before the festivities are
over — for every friend and visitor must partake of it, when
offered in a large tankard or wooden cup holding a gallon or
more. The men go to the mills for more flour, and for sev
eral days raothers and daughters are busy baking, and girls who

6 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
have the reputation of being good bakers are in great demand.
Home-made curraut-wine — if the berries grow in the district
— has been kept for the occasion. On the highways numer
ous carts are seen carrying little kegs of branvin (spirituous
liquor) homeward from the heads of fjords, or towns where
it can be procured, a man having been specially sent to bring
this with other luxuries. The larder is well stocked; fish,
birds, and venison are kept in reserve ; the best sjyige kjod
(dry mutton, or either beef or mutton sausage) is now brought
forward; a calf or a sheep is slaughtered, and, as the day
draws near, wafers and cakes are made. The humblest house
hold will live well at Christmas.
In many districts of Sweden the pastor receives the remain
der of his tithes in the shape of flour, etc. A few years back
one could see on Dopparedagen — two days before Christmas
—the assistant pastor, the klockare (organist), and the kyrk-
vaktare (sexton) going round with large boxes, baskets, or bags,
in which to put the tithes ; but this custom now prevails only
in remote districts, the system of tithes having been generally
abolished. The little country stores carry on a thriving trade
in coffee, sugar, prunes, raisins, and rice, for puddings; the
girls buy trinkets and handkerchiefs for their heads, and the
young men get a new hat or a scarf. At that time the servant
men and girls of the farmers get the new clothes and shoes
that are due them, and all wear their best on the holiday.
The Christmas feeding of the birds is prevalent iu many of
the provinces of Norway and Sweden : bunches of oats are
placed on the roofs of houses, on trees and fences, for them to
feed upon. Two or three days before cart-loads of sheaves are
brought into the towns for this purpose, and both rich and
poor buy, and place them everywhere. Large quantities of
oats, in bundles, were on sale in Christiania, and everybody
bought bunches of them. In many of the districts the farm
ers' wives and children were busy at that season preparing
the oats for Christmas-eve. Every poor man, and every head
of a family had saved a ]ionny or two, or even one farthing,
to buy a bunch of oats for the birds to have their Christmas
feast. I remember well the words of n friend of mine, as

CHRISTMAS CUSTOMS. 7
we were driving through the streets of Christiania; he said,
with deep feeling, "A man must be very poor indeed if he
cannot spare a farthing to feed the little birds on Christ
mas - day I" What a pleasing picture it is to see the little
creatures flying round, or perched on the thickest part of the
straw and picking out the grain ! It is a beautiful custom,
and speaks well for the natural goodness of heart of the Scan
dinavian. On this day, on many a farm, the dear old horse, the
young colt, the cattle, the sheep, the goats, and even the pig,
get double the usual amount of food given them, and have
so much that often they cannot eat it all.
The day before Christmas, in the afternoon, everything is
ready — the house has been thoroughly cleaned, and leaves of
juniper or fir are strewn on the floor. When the work is done
the whole family generally go into the bakehouse, which has
been made warm, and each member takes a thorough wash
from head to foot, or a bath in a large tub — the only one
many take during the year ; then they put on clean linen, and
are dressed. In the evening they gather round the table,
the father reads from the Liturgy, and oftener a chapter of
the Bible, and then a hearty meal is taken. In many of the
valleys and mountain-dales watch is kept during the whole of
the night, and all are merry ; candles are kept burning at the
windows, and, as in Dalecarlia, the people flock to church,
each carrying a torch. In some districts, immediately after
service, the people hurry from church either on foot or in
sleighs, for there is an old saying that he who gets home first
will have his crop first harvested. Early on Christmas morn
ing the family is awakened by the shrill voice of the mother
or sisters singing —
A child is born in Bethlehem, Bethlehem,
That is the joy of Jerusalem,
Halle! Hallelujah!
The second morning afterward the young people strive to
finish their work first, whether in the barn or the house.
There is a great deal of fun and mischief : doors and windows

8 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
are nailed during the night by the boys, to give trouble to the
girls in getting down ; or their shoes are hidden ; and the girls
play all kinds of tricks on the boys. In the country Christ
mas is observed more as a religious day.
In some places old-fashioned ways are still kept. On the
twentieth day young men often paint or blacken their faces,
put queer crowns on their heads or hats, wear large stars on
their breasts, and carry long wooden swords. One is fur
nished with a pouch, and they visit each farm and solicit con
tributions for a frolic. Now and then they indulge in a great
deal of mischief ; and if they suspect some young fellow to
love a girl, they sing to her the old Herodes song :
Just as the three kings
In yon time had sung to Maria,
So do we boys sing
Now for thee, beloved Karen. "^
It will now no longer do
That thou shalt go so lonely ;
One of us as husband take, do ;
Then thou hast everything lovely.
" Here nothing will help but decision —
With shining swords we are popping —
Give on twentieth day answer to our mission.
Which two of us you are dropping.
They then clash with their wooden swords, and rush out.
On Christmas evening I found myself once more at the
pleasant home of my friend Consul H  . Tiie children
were delighted to see me, and bright-eyed little Kristine and
her young brother beamed with delight when I told her how
astonished I had been while in New York to receive a large
letter from her. I told her that at first I thought the letter
was not intended for me; but there was no mistake, it was
directed to Paul B. Du Chaillu, and it had the Christiania post
mark. I opened the envelope and found a pair of slippers,
which fitted rae perfectly. " It is a gift from Kristine !"
cried the boys, who did not give me time to finish my sen-
' Or any other name for the girl.

CHRISTMAS-DAY IN CHRISTIANIA. 9
tence ; " she embroidered them herself." " But how did she
discover the size of my foot ?" Before the answer came dinner
was announced, aud I was the only stranger in that large fam
ily circle, where young aud old were seated together round
the table. After dinner the excitement became great among
the young folks, for the door of the large drawing-room had
been strictly closed against all. Suddenly there was a rush,
the door was opened, and a shout of wonder and delight rang
among the children. In the centre of the great room a large
Christmas-tree was blazing with the light of scores of little
wax-candles of bright colors; the branches were laden with
gifts. We formed a ring round the tree, holding each oth
er's hands, alternately advancing and retiring while we sung.
After the dance and the song we seated ourselves. The faces
of the children were beaming with happiness, and they waited
to see what Santa Claus had brought them. Their eager eyes
watched the tree, and, as each parcel was taken off, there was a
dead silence before the name was read, and then a rush to see,
and exclamations of joy and wonder, which made those who
had as yet received no gift the more impatient and anxious.
Indeed, one must have been heavily laden with care and sor
row who could not be happy at the sight of those bright and
joyous faces on that festival-night. It made the old young
again, and for awhile, at least, drove trouble away. A large
parcel was taken from one of the branches of the tree, and
everybody was curious to know for whom it was intended,
for it was the largest of all. It was for me ! I opened the
package, all crowding round, and found a beautiful rauff, made
of the skin of a fox, with the head splendidly prepared, look
ing as if the animal were alive. It was a thoughtful remem
brance from my kind friend and his wife. "It will be very
useful to you this- winter, when you are travelling in the far
North," said the hostess. Very useful it was, indeed ; besides,
it became an object of great curiosity to the primitive inhab
itants of the interior. The fox's head was so life-like that it
invariably set the dogs barking at it.
The remainder of the evening passed off quietly, and by
ten o'clock all had retired or gone home.

10 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER III.
Departure from Christiania. — Fog on the Mjosen. — A Small Sleigh. — Paterfamilias
ready to Start. — Mild Weather. — Little Snow. — Rain. — Gudbrandsdal. — The
Church of Dovre, Toftemoen. — A Historical Farm. — Supper at Toftemoen. —
New-year's Day.— The Church.— The Reception at Tofte. —Third Venerable
Pedigree. — An Ancient Farm and Saga. — King Harald Haarfager at Tofte in the
Year 860.— Snefrid,— The Maids of Tofte.— Ancient Houses.— The Author's
Quarters. — Habits of Gudbrandsdal Farmers, — A Jolly Evening. — Bijuder Pride.
— Numerous old Drinking-vessels. — A Surprise-party. — The Thirteenth Day of
Yule. — Hans. — Selsjord Farm. — A Damsel Party. — Gudbrandsdal's Beauties. — A
Jealous Girl. — Reception at Skjena. — Eiinnog. — Andresse. — End of all Festiv
ities. liS-Y object in coming to Christiania was to spend the Christ
mas festivities among the farmers of Gudbrandsdalen. On
the raorning of the 26th of December I took the railway for
Lake Mjosen. Norwegian railway travelling is very slow.
We were three hours making forty-two miles. A thick fog
prevented the steamer from starting at the time appointed ;
but when it cleared we raised anchor, and in a few hours ar
rived at Gjovick, about half-way, further navigation being
stopped by the ice. A drive of several hours brought me to
the head of the Mjosen lake, about 110 miles from Christiania.
It was very dark, and I did not dare to cross the river Logen
on the ice with my sleigh, as I could not see the way, and my
driver did not know the dangerous places. I knocked at the
door of a small house and asked the owner to cross over witii
me ; I excused myself for awaking him, by telling him that I
was very much in a hurry.
After three or four hours' sleep I was on my way northward
towards the Dovre fjelds, travelling over a magnificent road.
The sleighs used at the stations in Norway are peculiar, and I
may say very uncomfortable. They can seat only one person,
and the seat resembles much that of a cariole, except that it is
placed upon runners. There is no place for the luggage, so

PREPARATIONS BEFORE A JOURNEY.

11

that, even with a small valise, the traveller's legs must extend
beyond the edge, and generally nearly touch the runners.
These sleighs, however, are easily managed in the mountains
and narrow roads, aud very seldom upset. The post-boy or
driver stands behind, with his feet on the runners. One must
wear heavy top-boots lined with fur, and two pairs of knitted
stockings, to prevent his feet from being frozen in cold weather.

6TASTING ON A JOUKNEY.

The stranger travelling in Scandinavia in winter, especially
an American, who thinks nothing of a journey of a thousand
miles, is surprised at the great preparations made when a
worthy paterfamilias gets ready to start on a journey of a
few hours. He cannot help noticing the anxiety of the wife
for her husband, and the respect and love of the children
amidst the great commotion. Papa must not be hungry, so
the box or basket containing the luncheon te carefully pre
pared, a little flask of spirits or wine being added to warm
him on the road, and a bountiful meal is spread before his
departure. Above all, he must be carefully guarded against
getting cold : the thickest woollen stockings and mittens are
selected and warmed ; the long coat, lined with wolf or sheep
skin, with collar rising above the head and almost covering
the face, is brushed ; the high loose top - boots, lined with
thick fur, are cleaned ; the warmest woollen scarf, probably

12

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

the Christmas-gift of some of the children, is taken from the
drawer. After the meal the toilet begins. Mother and children as
sist in dressing him ; he takes it easy, with a look of satis
faction that he is the lord of such a household, and is happy
to receive so much solicitous attention. The woollen sash is
passed twice around his waist, his neck is carefully protected,
his fur cap put on his head, and his collar raised so that his
face is hardly seen. The servant-maid tries to help also, and
thinks she has her share in making her master comfortable
for the journey. In the mean time the son has harnessed the
horse, and after a pleasant good-bye the head of the household
departs, thinking how delightful it is to be the father of a
large family.

-«a

A DKOLL SCENE.

The second day of my trip the sky was so blue, and so
charged with aqueous vapor, that I was not without misgiv
ings. I was not mistaken — that fine sky was deceitful; in the
afternoon, the weather growing milder and milder, the clouds
gathered, and before night the rain poured down. I was as
tonished at such mild weatlier in the middle of winter — be
tween 61° and 62° latitude — in a valley several hundred feet

ARRIVAL AT TOFTEMOEN. 13
above the sea. As the evening advanced the rain-storm in
creased in violence, and the night became so dark that I could
not see my way, so I left all to my horse. The poor animal —
a post-horse — had travelled many times over the same route,
and knew it perfectly, and by himself that night entered the
yard at the station of Skseggestad.
Wherever I was known I was heartily welcomed with a
Glcedelig Jul og godt Nytaar (Merry Christmas and Happy
New-year). There had been very little snow, and the rain had
so washed the road that driving was equally bad with a cariole
or sleigh, until the valley reached a higher level, as I travelled
farther north. At this time of the year, in Southern Norway,
the days are very short ; it is not daylight before 8.30 or 9
A.M., and at 3.30 p.m. it is dark. The sun could not be seen on
account of the height of the mountains flanking the valley.
At two o'clock the red aud yellow sky over our heads told
that sunset was near. The bright orange clouds, dyed by the
rays of the sun, as they floated across the valley and over the
snow-clad summits of Kuven, iTlS, and of Jetta, 5278 feet
above the sea, presented a beautiful spectacle.
After travelling three days the cliurch of Dovre appeared
in the distance, and the road had attained a height of 1500
feet. I was nearing the end of my journey. At some railes
to the right of the highway, at the base of the raountains,
is a ridge of hills, upon which several farms, some of the
oldest in the Gudbrandsdal, are situated ; among them were
Bjorn, Hofde, Bergseng, Lindsoy, Budsjord, Hoye, Buste, and
some others ; I also recognized Tofte, my place of destination.
I alighted at the historic post-station of Toftemoen, to shake
hands with my old friend Ivor before going to see his brother
Thord. He was not at home ; but his house-keeper, who had
entire charge of the farm, said that Ivor did not like Tofte
moen any more ; that he was more fond of Hedalen, and of
his big farm of Bjolstad, and that he spent most of his time
there. "But," she added, "you must remain overnight with
us, and see our neighbors, and to-morrow will be time enough
for you to go to Thord. Ivor would be sorry if he heard
you did not tarry a day here. We will take good care of you ;

li THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
you must spend one of the thirteen days of yule with us."
As the table was being set, she remarked, "At Christmas we
always use a table-cloth." After the raeal the farm-hands
gathered about the fireplace to chat, and all were served with
a glass of wine. The talk ran upon Christmas festivities, the
parties that were to be given, and what fun was in prospect.
Then we heard the names of the persons who had become en
gaged, and who were to be married in the spring, and the
usual comments were uttered — such as, "Who would have
thought it !" " How sly they have been about it !"
It was late when 'we retired. An immense bedroom, gaudi
ly painted, adorned with ancient furniture, and very comforta
ble, was allotted to me.
New-year's day — kept in the country as a religious day —
dawned with a heavy fall of snow. A sleigh was raade ready
to take rae to church ; one of the dairy-maids managed to find
room with rae by sitting in my lap ; while one of the farm
hands, with a flaming red cap, stood behind and drove. On
account of the stormy weather the congregation was small.
After church I drove to Tofte, and was received by Thord in
the warm but undemonstrative way characteristic of the Nor
wegian bonde.
Soon after ray arrival a bountiful meal was prepared, for
this is invariably a part of the hospitality offered to a stranger.
The table was covered with a snowy cloth, and I was to eat
alone, for such was the etiquette, to show that the meal had
been prepared for the guest. My host remained to see that
the beautiful fair-haired maids waited properly upon me, for
he was a widower. Thord Paulsen (the son of Paul) was one
of three brothers, belonging to one of the xevy oldest families
of Norway, tracing his pedigree to King Harald Haarfager,
so called on account of his fine fair hair. He swore that he
would never cut it till he had conquered all the provinces of
Norway, and united them into one kingdom. He ruled over
Norway more than a thousand years ago. Ganger Rolf, an
ancestor of William the Conqueror, who in spite of the orders
of Harald Haarfager had committed depredations on the coast
of the kingdom, was banished, and sailed with his fieet and

THE ANCIENT FARMS OF THE TOFTES

15

warriors southward, to France, where he founded a kingdom,
afterwards called Normandy.
The farms belonging to the Toftes had been in the posses
sion of the family from long before the Norman conquest of
England, and frora the earliest time of the settlement of the
valley of Gudbrandsdal by the Northmen ; and, in order to
keep the property intact, marriages among cousins have been
continually taking place. In the Tofte family the name of
Paul, Thord, and Ivor are always found.

OLD MOUNTAIN STATION OF H.JEKKIN.

The farm here has also its stories of love and romance.
King Harald, about the year 860, was on a journey when
he stopped at the farm of Tofte to spend Christmas. On
Christmas-eve, Swase, a Laplander, also arrived at the farm
just as his majesty was seating himself at table, and invited
the king to go with him to his own house, where a Christ
mas feast had been prepared. The monarch angrily refused.
Swase, not daunted, sent back word that Harald had promised
to visit his hut. The king yielded ; and on entering the hut
he met Snefrid (Snow-peace), the beautiful daughter of Swase,

16 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
who filled a cup of mead for him. He had already fallen des
perately in love with her on account of her great beauty. She
had a child, whose descendants afterwards became a great fam
ily in the northern part of Norway.
Toftemoen, the farm of Thord's brother Ivor, is one of the
oldest post-stations in the country. The saga runs to the ef
fect that about the year 1100 King Eysten and King Sigurd
met here on their journeys, and quarrelled, each claiming to
have done greater deeds than the other. They were brothers.
Sigurd was the younger, and on his return from Palestine gave
great riches to Eysten. Sigurd talked of his battles, his con
quests, and his wanderings in far lands ; while Eysten boasted
of the many things he had done for Norway — of the road he
was making from Trondhjem over the Dovre f jeld, and of the
inns he had built and supported for the use of travellers. In
old times farm-stations were scarce in many parts of the coun
try, and when people travelled they had to sleep out-of-doors
or take refuge in the little shelter-houses called hastestite, some
of which still exist in the far North in uninhabited districts.
Thord was fifty years of age, of medium height, with hair
tinged with gray, and a benign countenance without much ex
pression. There was not the slightest degree of pretension in
his conversation or his manner. He was very pious, a stanch
supporter of the Church, and very conservative. His every
day dress was a black frock-coat, pantaloons, and waistcoat,
made of fine homespun cloth, and he wore a long red woollen
cap, which seemed to be the fashionable head-covering in this
part of the country ; his clothes had been raade by the tailor
of Dovre, and his boots on his farm, from his own leather.
My host lived in a patriarchal way, like all the bonder of
Norway ; and no one seeing him, with his simple manners,
would have suspected he was of so ancient lineage. Seven
maids and five men-servants {drengc) lived witli him, but
during the summer months and in harvest -time a great
number of extra laborers were employed. These maids had
an independent air, for the fact that they worked for their
living did not in the least affect their social position ; they
were Northmen's daughters ; and it was the custom for every

THE SERVANT-MAIDS OF TOFTE, 17
bonde's wife, daughters, and sons to waive distinction of caste
at social gatherings. The fathers of these girls were bonder,
the equals of Tofte, and their farms had descended to them
from ancient times. One or two were the children of husmsend ;
but no stranger could distinguish them from the others, and
they were treated with as much consideration. They had all
accepted situations, either because the farms owned by their
parents were too small, or they wished to make money for
themselves. All were fresh -looking, healthy, and strong. Coarse fare,
early rising, and plenty of work in the open air seemed to
agree with them. Three were really beautiful : all had light-
blue eyes and fair hair. Four out of the seven were named
Ragnild — a very coraraon name in this part of Gudbrandsdal,
and likely to continue ; for a child must always be named after
some member of the family : the daughters after their grand
mothers, mothers, or aunts, and the boys after grandfathers,
fathers, or uncles. In order to distinguish them from each
other, the name of the farm from which each had come was
added. Thus, Ragnild Mosjordet was Peder's datter (daugh
ter), Ragnild Nyhaugen was Ols's datter, Ragnild Angaard was
Martin's datter, and Ragnild Ulen was Torstin's datter. Two
others were called Marit, a narae also quite coraraon ; and
one was Kari, the dirainutive of Catherine. The five farm
hands were strong healthy fellows, whose names were Anders,
Ole, John, Lars, and Hans. The ridge upon which the farm
is built slopes gently towards the valley, and is situated about
one mile from the main-road, near a torrent. The ground is
1910 feet above the sea, and 400 feet above the valley ; at the
back of it are dark mountains, from which issued several
streams. On the estate were two dwelling-houses — that iu
which Thord lived dating from the year 1783, and the other
from 1651. In the older building dwelt Tofte's sister, with
her son Paul, a lad sixteen years of age ; Thord inherited the
farm, but had to make an allowance to her from its produce,
which enabled her to live very comfortably. Thord lived in
the more modern house, a large and comfortable building.
On the first floor was the kitchen, with flreplace, a large table,
VOL. II. C

18 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
wooden benches, and a few wooden chairs. This was the
every-day room, in which the meals were cooked and served,
and the household fabrics spun or woven. Two rooms
communicated with the kitchen, one of these being Tofte's
bedroom, the other used as a dairy in the winter. In the
centre of the house, back of the entrance -hall, was a room
for the male farm-hands, where were beds consisting of loose
straw covered with sheepskins. The guest-room had a low
ceiling and a painted floor, but was a model of cleanliness ;
it was only used when particular honor was to be paid to a
stranger, or on gala occasions ; a thick round post in the cen
tre supported the ceiling, and on one of the cross-beams were
cut in the wood the figures 1783, the date of the completion
of the house. A large table, a queer -looking old sideboard,
a few chairs, and a stove constituted the furniture. This fash
ion of inscribing the date seemed to have come in vogue only
since about the year 1600. Yet this building appeared quite
new in comparison with some of those by which we were sur
rounded. At this very farm, and not at Toftemoen, as strangers sup
pose, King Oscar, father of the present sovereign, was enter
tained by Thord's father while on his way from Christiania to
Trondhjem, where he was to be crowned king of Norway. The
old farmer sent word to the king to bring nothing with him,
not even silver, for he had enough for his whole court. The
king and Tofte had a table to themselves, while the suite of his
majesty ate at another table — even the minister of state in
cluded. " This table," said the descendant of the Haarfager,
" is only for those of royal blood." Though this story is a
pleasant one to relate and to read, I doubt it. The host prob
ably desired simply to pay special honor to his sovereign — a
custom usual with strangers. Every day he ate with the ser
vants of his household, and could not consistently refuse to
eat with the dignitaries of state of his own country, although
thinking them far below himself.
One house, as was too often the case, remained unfinished ;
on the roof of another was the Christmas sheaf of oats for the
use of the birds. These buildings formed a sort of enclosure,

HABITS OF GUDBRANDSDAL'S FARMERS, 19
in the centre of which was a large rounded slab upon which
salt was placed for the cattle, which in fair weather were some
times allowed to come out for a little while. The horse-dung
was carefully saved, dried, and then put in the yard in little
heaps, and I was surprised to see how fond the cattle were
of it.
Other houses contained the family stores, such as salted
meat, butter, etc., for winter use; and a, third apartment was
filled with the wool that had been sheared. On the same side
of the yard was a high house, with a belfry and a clock. This
building was used in suraraer by the day-laborers, who often
numbered thirty or forty, and it was several hundred years
old. There was also a large building, resting on thick stone
walls, containing sixty cows, and at a short distance was an
other building for other cows. The stable contained twenty
horses, some of them quite handsome. No one can judge of
the Norwegian ponies by those seen or used at the post-sta
tions. The industrious habits of the farmers in this part of Nor
way were very striking. Everything was done with the pre
cision of clock-work. On many of the farms a bell, placed on
one of the buildings, called the hands to or from work. They
rose at four o'clock in the morning, winter and summer ; at
six o'clock the cows had been milked and the horses attended
to, and the laborers sat down to breakfast, Tofte presiding,
for the farmers and their wives always set the example of
thrift and industry. After breakfast the orders were given
for the day, and everything was done accordingly — the equal
ity of social customs giving no one the privilege to neglect a
duty. Dinner was served at eleven o'clock — the farmer carv
ing, and the wife, or the house-keeper, placing before each per
son a piece of flat bread and a portion of butter. Potatoes
were always served at dinner. At five o'clock a third meal was
provided ; and the fourth, and last, invariably consisting of grot
(a thick mush), was ready between seven and eight o'clock in
the evening. After five o'clock, or even earlier, the girls raade
their toilets, took their places in the kitchen, and engaged in
weaving, spinning, knitting, or needle-work. By eight o'clock,
c 2

20 THE LAND OP THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
or, at the latest, nine o'clock, everybody was in bed. Above the
parlor was a large bedroom, which was a pattern of cleanliness,
containing a bed shaped like a bunk. In one corner of this
room I saw the old silver crown which had been put upon the
heads of many brides of the Tofte faraily. The bedroom was
used only by guests, and it was assigned to me. In the upper
hall robes and fur clothing hung upon the walls.
The view from the windows was peculiar, the farms and
their buildings forming each a cluster which appeared darker
by contrast with the snow ; and on the mountains, on the other
side of the valley, the saeters appeared like black spots, resem
bling huge boulders. When I retired for the night, Thord,
generally accompanied by two of the maids, would escort me
to my room, to see if it was warm and comfortable. My
host's first inquiry in the morning was if I had found my
bonde bed comfortable, and if I had rested well. I ate break
fast alone, for Thord took his at six o'clock with the farm
hands. I was served with fried bacon, mutton, potatoes, but
ter, cheese, plenty of milk, and excellent coffee ; and a pleasant
girl waited upon me.
It was charming, when evening came, to be seated with the
whole household in the kitchen round a huge wood-fire the
flames of which lighted the entire room. The hard work was
then finished, and, as it was Christmas-time, the people of the
farm were dressed in their best. The floor of the kitchen had
been scrubbed, and everything made tidy ; a heap of firewood
lay in a corner, and we were to have a dance. Supper was
had earlier than usual ; afterwards a few neighbors came in.
With some difliculty I persuaded the girls to sing. Among
their songs were these : PER AND LISA.
And Lisa she was stiff, and said to Per this way :
" It is no use that thou courtest me.
Because if anybody courts I will not listen to it —
No, never, here in the times of this world !"
" Oh, by the cross, is that so ?
Ha! ha! ha! ha!
That was a funny little song."

SCANDINAVIAN SONGS, Zl
And Per he sniffed, and said to Lisa this way :
" It is no use that thou go here and puff ;
I never think of making myself trouble
For thee or for other girls."
" Oh, by the cross, is that so ?
Ha! ha! ha! ha!
That was a funny little song."
And Per and Lisa sullenly separated in a hurry,
And I don't know where they wandered ;
But, however, I know that before the year was out
So married they each other.
" Oh, by the cross, is that so?
Ha! ha! ha! ha!
That was a funny little song."

MY LITTLE NOOK AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.
I know a little nook among the mountains,
A little nook that is my own ;
Where no vanity has taken root,
No innocence changed its color.
Wherever fate may me throw,
I long back again to my nook.
My little nook among the mountains.
There have I got a captive shut in.
Who must make itself content
Within the little narrow space,
For I have dazzled mind and senses.
Wherever fate may me drive,
I long back again to my nook.
My little nook among the mountains.
My little Hildur is the captive.
And Love with flowery bands
Has tied her, heart and foot and hand.
To the hut and the singer and the song.'
Wherever fate may me drive,
I long back again to my nook.
My Uttle nook among the mountains.

THE BOY AND THE GIRL.
THE BOY.
When a girl gets to be fifteen years
She has whims ;

22 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
But when she gets twenty, and gets a beau,
She makes herself particular ;
But if she goes single, in ten years more.
So, you may trust me, you will see
She will consent. THE GIRL.
So high the bachelor of twenty
He puts hia nose ;
The best girl of the village
He must surely have ;
But when ten times he has got " No !"
So, you may trust me, he is in no hurry
To try the fun. THE BOT.
There is 'bout women so many a saying
To the worst ;
But every bachelor marries well
As soon as he can.
If his woman then is a little mad and angry,
Her words do not go into bone and marrow.
That I have found. THE GIRL.
Of men one can't always speak
The very best ;
But every girl, of course, a man
AVants by her to fasten.
If he is a little angry once in awhile.
Yet the girl thinks he is good
'Most all the time. THE BOY.
I should like to marry now :
Will you have me ?
Don't be afraid — I will never beat you,
Or tease you.
Sometimes I may make wry faces,
But all my time I surely will
Love you. THE GIRL.
Oh yes ! I guess I shall have a man
As well as others ;
When such a suitor offers he is
Not shown awav.

CONSERVATISM OF THE PEOPLE. 23
Little quarrels there may be.
But thine forever I shall be :
Here is my hand.
After the singing the chairs were put aside, and the good
Thord, in order to put life into the party, started a dance with
one of his maids ; but he made only two or three turns, for he
was a sufferer from asthma. His son and nephew then danced
with each girl of the household. Then we played blind-man's-
buff, and many of the maidens had to redeem their forfeits
by kissing me. Some of them were bashful, and objected at
first ; but they had to do it, amidst the merriment of all the
company, who seemed to enjoy this part of the fun amazingly.
A strong feeling of conservatism, of holding fast to old cus
toms — a hatred of any appearance of pride— -are characteris
tics of the bonder ; these are raore apparent in some districts
than in others. Often when Thord dined with me he was not
hungry. " Why do you not take your meals with me ?" I ask
ed ; " you certainly cannot eat two dinners within half an hour
of each other."
" Oh," said he, " if I did so, I ara afraid the servants of the
house and neighbors would call rae proud; they would say
that I am ashamed of them before strangers ; they would
think that I slighted them."
To Thord, and many other farmers, I have often said, "Why
do you not paint your dwellings white? they would look so
much prettier, and more picturesque." The answer was, " We
would like to do so, but what would the people say ? They
would think that we wanted to appear better than they are,
and were ashamed to be bonder, or that we tried to imitate
the city people." This intense conservatism is often a draw
back to improvement, for those who would like to make
changes dare not begin ; hence the social forms of a more
primitive state of society, which have been lost in other coun
tries, still prevail here.
From one farm to another I went, here in the raountains,
there in the valley, reraaining a few hours in one house, over
night in another, welcomed everywhere ; drinking the home
made jule 61 (ale) from horns so old that the worshippers of

24: THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
Thor and Odin had used them for toasts on their return from
successful raids, and on the occasion of a marriage, or a burial,
when they sung the songs celebrating the virtues of the braves
who had died on the battle-field to enter full-armed into the
happy halls of the Yalhalla.
The ancient drinking-horns, now so rare, were from the ure-
ox, now extinct. The engraving represents one in my posses-

OLD DEINKING-UOEN. TUlETEEN INOUES UIGU.

sion, given to me by the museum of the city of Bergen, and
comes, without doubt, from the heathen times. Drinking from
one of these requires a peculiar knack, otherwise the contents
are sure to fall on you. There was great raerriment when, for
the first tirae, I drank from one of them and the contents fell
upon the bosom of my shirt.
Next to the drinking-horns are the wooden tankards ; they
are hooped like small kegs; raany of tliem are beautifully
carved, and sorae are four or five hundred years old. There
is another form of hooped wooden vessels which is extremely
rare. I saw only two of them, both made in the shape of coffee
pots, and one lined with silver hoops. These two drinking-
vessels are the most curious specimens I have obtained. One
of thein is in the collection of Mr. Joseph W. Harper, one of

ANCIENT DRINKING VESSELS.

25

WOODEN TANKAED.

my publishers, as a token
of remembrance of many
years of friendship.
On several farms ale
was offered to me in
old solid silver tankards,
which held nearly half
a gallon ; but these ves
sels, which have replaced
the older ones, date from
later periods, very few
of them being older than
the sixteenth or seven
teenth centuries. These
tankards are often ex
ceedingly heavy, some of them weighing several pounds.
As the thirteen days of yule drew to a close, I found my
self at a farm-house in one of those small transverse valleys
which fall into the Gudbrandsdal. It was late, and we were
seated near a bright
fire. Now and then
a large wooden cup,
filled with strong yule
ale, was passed round.
We suddenly heard
the sound of music
far away, but as we
listened it came near
er and grew more dis
tinct. Without warn
ing the door opened,
and a crowd of mask
ers filled the room.
It was a surprise-par
ty. Every one was
dressed in female cos
tume. The fiddlers
and accordeon players

6ILVEE-.M0UNTEI> riTOlIBK.

26 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
struck up the national raountain tunes, the maskers began to
talk to us in feigned voices, and all fell to dancing. Many of
the company knew me by sight ; one of the girls seized my
hand, and, although I was no dancer, I had to join the frolic.
When the dance was over the girls began to make love to us.
I was made a target for several of them. " Oh, Paul, what
are you doing here this winter? It is nice of you to come and
spend Christmas among us." " Paul, I love you !" " Paul,
come to see us." " Paul, is it true that you have been to
America since we saw you, hardly two raonths ago ? can it
be, America is so far away ? Take me to America with you
when you go back." " Paul, do you think I am an old woman
or a young one ? do you think I am pretty or ugly ?" " Paul,
I want to marry you ; say yes or no without seeing my face."
" Paul, I ara sure you will make a good bonde." " Who are
you ?" I asked ; but the girls, afraid of being found out, fled
to mingle with the crowd. The host opened a trap-door in
the raiddle of the floor leading to the cellar, warning the peo
ple to be careful not to fall in, and several large wooden bowls
filled with ale were brought up ; after these had been passed
round there was more dancing ; and, when the maskers were
ready to depart, a woman took ray arra, and I went with her
like a lamb, for I wanted to enjoy the fun. From farm to
farm the masked party went, singing and dancing, until all
were tired. Two girls and their brother, who had just arrived,
unmasked themselves and said, "Paul, come to our farm to
sleep." I accepted the invitation, and was warmly welcomed.
We were all weary, and a crowd slept in the same room the
best way we could, in the old-fashioned style still practised in
Wales, and araong the Dutch of Long Island aud New Jersey
sorae thirty years ago, or in Pennsylvania and at Cape Cod,
and in many primitive parts of Europe to this day.
The 6th of January, the last of the thirteen days of yule,
found me at the farm of Hans Bredevangen, a warm-hearted
young fellow, who, besides his farm, had a country store, and
kept the relay-station. He would have been a good match for
some fair damsel, but no one had captivated him. On the
other side of the Logen River, a little higher up the valley, at

A CHRISTMAS FEAST AT SELSJORD. 27
the base of the Svart (black) Mountain, rising 4389 feet above
the sea, and about 3500 feet above the valley, was the farm of
Selsjord, belonging to Hans's brother-in-law, Jakob, where we
were going to spend the thirteenth day of yule. The weath
er could not have been finer ; the air was crisp ; the days were
already sensibly longer, and on many of the farms the people
had been watching the sun on the raountain -tops day after
day — the children noticing with delight its daily descent low
er and lower towards the valley, and counting the days when
sunshine should reach the farm-house and the fields : the farm
ers were looking forward to the coming spring ; the women
were thinking of the saeters.
It is an error to suppose that among the bonder there is no
ceremony or etiquette. On the contrary, we were invited
by Hans's sister and brother-in-law at once up -stairs to the
guests' room. I was startled by meeting there a bevy of young
and beautiful girls. This was a young girls' party, and all
were daughters of bonder — pictures of health, strong, with
rosy complexions, light-haired, and very good-looking. Some
of them were quite handsome. I suspected that this party
was given as a trap for Hans ; his sister evidently wanted to
see him married. This I thought a dangerous place for Hans,
or for a bachelor like myself. I was not sure if I also was
not to fall a victim to the wiles of these fair damsels of Gud
brandsdal. They were dressed in their best — as they always
are when they go visiting — with high-necked dresses of home
spun material, and round their throats nice little white collars
fastened by small gold or silver brooches ; they wore their
newest shoes, and their brightest colored or striped stockings ;
their hair was partly hidden under pretty calico handkerchiefs,
clean and nicely ironed, and tied in a graceful knot under the
chin. Among the beauties were Karoline, Ronnog, Marit, Mari,
Pernille, Fredrika, two Annes, and others. Some were the
daughters of well-to-do farraers; raore the children of poor
parents; two were engaged as maids on the farms, for it is
no disgrace to try to gain an honest livelihood, and wealth had
nothing to do with friendship. They all knew Hans, who per-

28 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
suaded them that I was one of the best fellows in the world.
One or two I had met before — were old acquaintances — but
raany of the party were strangers to me ; nevertheless, we soon
became sociable. We have remained good friends — some of
them to this day — and sometimes we write to each other.
As we were chatting the good wife came to set the table,
which she covered with a white cloth used for grand gala oc
casions. Dinner was then served, and, as was often the case,
neither the host nor hostess took their repast with us — they
wanted to show special honor. A high pile of flat bread was
placed in the centre, by the side of which were a plate of fresh,
soft, home-made brown bread, a large cheese, and an immense
cake of butter, weighing at least thirty or forty pounds, so that
the guests could help themselves as they pleased. When there
is a little feast, butter is one of the luxuries. We clasped our
hands, and then bowed our heads, asking a silent blessing be
fore we drew up to the table. Hans and I sat together. Jakob
and his wife reraained standing, for etiquette required them
to wait upon their guests, and to urge them to eat. If one
wants to raake a farmer in Scandinavia happy, he must eat
the raost he can.
We had soup, salted fish, roast mutton, sausages, and an im
mense plate of boiled potatoes. Now and then a large wooden
bowl, filled with ale, as a loving-cup, was passed round. The
dessert consisted of two huge bowls of rice, boiled with a large
quantity of milk, sweetened, and mingled with raisins, forming
a sort of very thick soup. These dishes were put in such
places that those near them helped themselves. We all had
silver spoons, instead of the wooden ones which are used on
ordinary occasions. As the dinner proceeded our hearts warm
ed, and we became more and more talkative ; and long before
the meal was over all were as friendly with me as if they had
known me for a long time. While eating I perceived that
one of the girls was intensely in love with Hans, and I could
see by the sly glances which the maidens now and theri gave
to each other that they enjoyed the fun : it was well known
that she was desperately in love with ray friend, who had seat
ed himself away from her, and paid to every other one as much

THE DAY AFTER CHRISTMAS, 29
attention as he could, but none to her. She became so jealous
that she could not even eat, and two or three times tears filled
her eyes. Hans did not care to marry. Four years have pass
ed away since our dinner, and I hear that the girl and Hans
are still single.
After dinner we thanked the host and hostess, shaking
hands with them, and then with each other ; and after coffee
had been served a little dance was started, and as there were
no musicians, the dancing took place with singing accompani
ment. Afterwards rings and blind-man's-buff and other games
were played. In the evening three raen who had been cele
brating the day by too much drinking, and had heard of this
quiet party, came to enjoy the fun ; but they were not al
lowed to enter. Finally sleighs came, and the party broke
up. " Paul," they all said, " do not go to Christiania yet ; stay
with us plain bonder folks a little longer ; spend the twentieth
day of yule here. You have plenty of time yet to go to
Lapland, and see the Laplanders ; it is too dark there now :"
and we bade each other good-night. As Ronnog aud Marit,
who were sisters, got into their sleigh, they said to me, "Come
to Skjena ; father and mother will welcome you : we have
folks in America. Come to-morrow."
Hans, on the following raorning, invited all the guests who
had been at Selsjord and the neighbors to come to his house
in the afternoon, to take coffee and participate in a sort of
kettledrum. I observed Fredrika, Hans's servant-maid, who
was strongly built and powerful, but with soft and gentle
manners. She was doing the honors of the house as if she
had been the hostess. Hans having no wife, it was her duty
to attend to the guests. A stranger would have taken her for
the mistress of the house. The coffee-pot was constantly re
plenished from a large kettle kept over a slow fire. I had
hardly drunk one cup of coffee when Fredrika filled it again :
her eyes seemed to be everywhere. The time passed rapidly,
and it was dark before we were aware of it. Soon a sleigh
was at the door, and Anders (Andrew) Pedersen (the son of
Peter), Fredrika's brother, was to drive Ronnog, Marit, and my
self to Skjena, the home of the girls. The evening was fine,

30 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
the stars shone brightly, and the mountains looked majestic
in the stillness of the night. As we passed the farms we saw
the dim light of a lamp through the small panes of the win
dows, and now and then a farmer reading his newspaper, or
the big Bible was on the table, and the father was reading it
to the family.
Skjena is a very old farm, and I was welcomed by Engebret,
the father, and Marit, the mother, and the rest of the family.
The greeting was so warm that I could not help feeling at
home. At once there was a great stir; keys were in the
hands of two or three of the daughters, who went one way or
another ; a large pile of flat bread was brought out, potatoes
were cooked, slices of bacon were fried, and a large bowl of
home-brewed ale and a pitcher of milk were produced. One
is not supposed to know that these preparations are going on
for him. Soon Anders and myself were invited to enter a
little room next to the kitchen, where a fire had been lighted
in the old stove, and a table nicely spread. There was a bed
in the corner. This was a sort of reception-room, and a num
ber of photographic portraits of the family and their friends
hung upon the walls. I asked Ronnog if she would give me
her picture, as she was the only sister who had one to spare.
She answered she was willing if I would give her one of mine.
We were left to take care of ourselves, but members of the
family once or twice came back to urge us to eat and drink
more, and we finished with a cup of coffee. Retiring to the
kitchen, we saw a pretty picture of the home -life of the
bonder. Four daughters were busily knitting stockings,
the mother was spinning, the father reading the Bible, and
Fredrik was seated by the fire. In one corner was the bed of
the old couple, and I noticed the whiteness of the sheets. A
smile from all welcomed us when we entered the room, and
as usual we shook hands with the father and mother and all
the family, and thanked them for our entertainment.
Anders then made preparations to return home. He could
not be induced to remain till the next morning. I said
to him, "Are you going to leave me here alone?" "Yes,"
he replied, "I raust go to work early to-morrow raorning.

A NIGHT AT SKJENA. 31
Christmas is over now. I have plenty to do." As he was
getting into his sleigh I quietly put into his hand a little
money, which I thought would be soraewhat raore than an
equivalent for the drive ; but, though a poor man, he returned
it. " No, indeed," said he, as if I had wounded his pride —
" No, indeed, Paul — we are friends." I could not induce him
to take it. One must know the bonder of Norway as I do
to appreciate the manliness of their character. Under their
apparently rough exterior beat as noble hearts as ever lived.
As he bade me good-bye, he pressed my hand with such a
powerful grasp that I was on the point of uttering a scream of
pain. On ray return to the kitchen the girls lighted a lantern
and disappeared, and a short tirae afterwards returned ; they
had gone to prepare a roora in the next house, to which I was
conducted by Ronnog and Marit. My sraall bedroora, look
ing out on the raain road, was warm and comfortable, and I
was left alone in the old log-house, where generations of the
Skjena family had lived and died, and I fell asleep on a lux
urious feather-bed furnished with snowy sheets.
Early the next morning Ronnog brought me a cup of coffee
with cake, lighted a fire in the stove, and said, "I hope, Paul,
you have slept well. You know this is a plain bonde bed.
While you are dressing we will have breakfast ready for you.
Come to the next house :" and with these words she disappear
ed. I was sorry when I had to leave these good people. To
this day we are great friends, and the last letters I received
from Gudbrandsdal are from Hans and Ronnog, and I give
their exact translation, so that you may know the style of a
bonde's daughter, and that of an honest straightforward tiller
of the soil. The handwriting of both is excellent.
LETTER FROM RONKOG.
Dear Paul, — Eight days ago I received a letter from thee, which made me very
happy to read through, and see that thou art well and hearty, which we hardly had
expected now, when it is so long since we heard anything from thee. And the same
good news I can give thee — we are well, both young and old, and that is certainly
the best thing one has in this world. I and Fredrik have recently been to the bur
ial of Thron Loftsgaard, and it was a very nice affair, and I was there three days ;
and this man died very suddenly ; he took sick one day and died the next. I will

32 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
tell thee that last summer I was saeter girl, and there I had it pleasant ; but, then,
one day the grayleg (wolf) came sneaking forward, and then thou mayst believe
I got afraid that he should kill my creatures. He killed five sheep in this place,
but none of mine. If thou hadst come to the saeter thou shouldst have got much
cream and thick milk ; then I hope thou wilt come here next summer, and thou shalt
be welcome at Skjena again. This winter it has been very cold, so that it has not
been such severe cold in nineteen years ; but now it is good winter weather. I
can greet thee from my brother Ole. We have recently had a letter from him, and
he was well. Hans Bredevangen and M  go the same now as when thou wert
here; they are still unmarried. Fredrika Bredevangen is now under good way to
be married to Amun Selsjord. The mother of Fredrika has long been in bed, and
she is yet there. Fredrik shot two reindeer last summer— one was a cow aud
the other a calf : many deer were shot here last season. I must not forget to
send thee my hearty thanks for the remembrance thou sent me ; it was very unex
pected for me to get a present from thee. Now I have got nothing more to write
which can interest thee, therefore come to an end with these simple and hurriedly
written lines, with the wish that they may find thee well and contented : with a
friendly greeting to thee from us all of the house, but first and last thou art greeted
from me. Live well. Ronnog E. Skjesa.
LETTER FROM HANS.
Mt deak nevbr-tobe-forgotten Friend, Paitl Du Chaillu, — Your welcome
letter of November I have received with gladness, for which I thank you. It was
received New-year's Day with the enclosed presents to my sister Marit, and to my
pige* Marit. They ask me to thank you many times. They thuik it was very in
teresting to receive a present from that so much spoken of and beromte (praised)
land, America, and so much the more when the present is from you. The newspa
per you sent, flarpo-'s Weekly, has also been received. I see in it an engraving
representing you driving with a reindeer iu Lapland, which must have been very
pleasant to do. Here in old Norway there is not much to tell one about. We have
now finished Christmas, which, as you know, lasts very long here, as you must re
member from the fun we had at Selsjord the thirteenth day of yule. At Christmas
time I drank to the health of my good friend Chaillu with my venner\ og veninder
(Norske pigerne), Norwegian girls, who send their hearty greetings. I see that next
summer you will come to Norway again, aud also to Gudbrandsdalen, when it shall
be very pleasant to meet again, especially now when we can talk and understand
each other better. We shall make a few trips to the sjeters. I learn by your
letter that you will soon publish a book on your travels in Scandinavia, which I
hope will be as interesting and entertaining as the publication of your travels in
Africa, which book I have read.
Herewith is enclosed a pair of mittens which my pige Marit sends you as a pres
ent, som defaar slide med hilsen (which you may wear with health). I must finally
wish you a good and happy New-year.
You are in the most friendly manner greeted by your friend, Hans Brepevangen.
* Pige, girl ; pigerne, girls. t Vctmer, male frieuds ; veninder, female frieads.

-I TTARM RATLir.tY CARRIAGE. 33

CHAPTER IV.
christiania to Stockholm by Rail. — Mild Winter. — No Snow. — Stockholm in Win
ter. — Double Windows. — Swedish Porcelain Stoves. — Highway to the North. —
Departure for the North. — A Pleasant Companion. — Snow-storm. — Beauty of the
Snow-clad Pine Forests. — Deep Snow. — Slow Travelling. — Meeting the Mail-coach.
— Sundsvall. — Comfortable Quarters. — Aland. — The Jagmastare. — A Great Nim
rod. — A Pleasant Family. — A Lovely Maiden. — Regulations after a Snow-storm.
— Losing the Track, — Intelhgent Horses. — The Snow Increasing. — Snow-ploughs
and Snow-rollers. — UmeS,. — Innertafle. — A Hearty Welcome. — Great Changes in
Temperature. — Crowded Relay - stations. — Innervik. — Skelleftei. — A Town with
many Pretty Young Ladies. — Pite&. — Aurora Borealis. — Winter in a Small Town.
— Singing Clubs. — Jemton Relay-station. — Kivijarvi. — Nikkala. — Less Snow go
ing North. — Arrival at Haparanda.
The winter was an exceptionally mild and pleasant one,
with great variations of temperature. On my way to Stock
holm I had for compagnons de voyage in the railway carriage
an old gentleman, his wife, and three daughters. The gentle
man wore a long loose coat lined with wolf-skin — the warmest
after that of the reindeer — reaching to the ankles, with a col
lar which, when raised, completely enveloped the head. He
also wore a thick fur cap, and heavy loose boots with fur in
side. The ladies were literally packed in furs, and wore ex
ceedingly thick soft knit veils, which corapletely hid their
faces, besides heavy cloaks, closely drawn. The fan-lights over
the doors of the car were shut, and the father constantly in
quired of his wife and daughters if they were warra and com
fortable, although it was thawing weather, and the thermometer
stood several degrees above freezing-point. Not a breath of
air entered that compartment, which was filled with six per
sons, all wrapped in furs. As the old gentleraan was in con
stant fear that his family would catch cold, I could not ask to
have the windows partly opened ; and if I had opened one of
them without asking permission, objections would have been
VOL. II. " D

34 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
raised at once. All of thera seemed to regard me with per
fect amazement, for I wore only my winter overcoat, witli
no fur boots, and felt uncorafortably warm. After a short

time I began to suffocate, and ray temples to throb for want
of fresh air. I wondered how people could bear such a close
atmosphere; but, happily, at one of the stations the whole
party left the train, whereupon I let down one of the win
dows and breathed freely.

PORCELAIN STOVES. 35
On my way across the peninsula frora Christiania to Stock
holm by rail, on the 10th of January, the country was bare of
snow. At Stockholm, Lake Malar was not frozen, and the
port was free of ice. The people everywhere longed for
snow, for the transportation of iron ores or the hauling of
timber was at a stand -still; land traflac was delayed; game,
which is sent in enormous quantities to the city from distant
forests, was scarce, and fuel in the inland towns had becorae
dearer. Carl XV. was now dead, and Oscar II. was king.
Stockholm had not the cheerful aspect it presents in sum
mer ; its gardens and parks were deserted, the delightful strains
of music which caught the ear being heard only in the caf^s ;
the merry sound of sleigh-bells and the gay crowd of skaters
on the Malar were yet to come. Sleighing lasts raore or less
for three or four months in cold winters. The theatrical sea
son had come, and in the evenings the cafes were filled with
people. The city nevertheless looked wintry.
All the houses now had double windows (a rare occurrence
in Christiania), at the base of which, between the two, a layer
of cotton was spread to absorb moisture. French instead of
sliding windows are used in Norway and Sweden. One of the
panes of each is free, and opens for ventilation. The rooms
are uncarpeted, just as in summer. The modes of heating in
Norway and Sweden are different in the cities; in the former
iron stoves are used — in Sweden the rooms are warmed by
long white porcelain stoves, which reach almost to the ceil
ings. Some are round and others square ; the door is of cop
per, which is kept bright and shining. The amount of wood
required during the day is very small; kindling three fires
a day is sufficient in very cold weather. When the wood is
burned to charcoal, and the disagreeable gases gone, the slid
ing valve is closed, to retain the heat of the brick and por
celain walls. I am surprised that these stoves have not come
in vogue in America.
Porcelain stoves are built in the-manner shown on page 36:
a is a damper, moved in and out by the cord c; b is the fire
place, where the wood-fire is built ; d i& a. flue, carrying the
D 2

36

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

e

a /:•'¦ V.::;--,
c
dji ji 11
llJlnila
i
^¦::::::::y
fOEOELAIN STOVE.
smoke into the chimney e. The inside of the stove, contain
ing the flue, is built of brick, and only the outside covering
is porcelain. When a wood -fire is
built in the fireplace the hot smoke
is carried through the flue, thereby
heating the stove through. When
the wood is consuraed the damper
is shut, entirely preventing the heat
from escaping into the chimney.
The stove, therefore, retains its heat
for many hours, even in the coldest
weather. From Stockholm the highway to
the far North skirts the shores of
the Baltic, and of the Gulf of Both
nia as far as Haparanda — and still continues north, as we have
seen in suramer, up to Pajala — the distance being over 128
Swedish miles. The main road passes over many fjords, across
hills and valleys, through large forests of pine and fir, afford
ing in summer charming landscapes, which are succeeded by
dreary districts of swamp and morasses — then winding its way
by wild and lonely lakes, past tracts of cultivated land and
sylvan scenery, and through clean and pleasant towns, villages,
and hamlets nestled near inlets of the sea, or picturesquely
situated by the river-side, full of life in suramer but quiet in
the winter.
With a moderate amount of snow, when the sleighing is
good, the journey can be made in a fortnight without any
hardship. Many of the post- stations are very comfortable,
and several towns are met on the way. But I intended to
roam through the vast region extending from the Baltic to the
North Cape ; to cross, in the depth of winter, in the latitude
of about 69°, the range of mountains to the coast of Norway,
hoping to encounter storms which would give me an idea of
the fury of the winter winds that sweep the altitudes within
the arctic circle ; then visit the islands of Lofoden, to see the
great cod-fisheries of Norway ; and afterwards to make a tour
by sea to the other side of the North Cape as far as the Ya-
DEPARTURE FOR THE NORTH. 37
renger fjord ; then, with reindeer, to return to Haparanda in
time to see the sudden transformation of winter into spring.
This trip was not a small undertaking, for it was to involve
more than three thousand railes of sleighing, several hundred
miles of sea travel, and about five raonths of time. Such a
journey to raany would be long and tedious at such a time;
but to me it was full of novelty and instruction, and I look
back upon it as among the raost enjoyable months of my
travels. From Upsala to Haparanda there are seventy-one post-sta
tions, many of them very comfortable, with tidy rooms and
clean beds, and tolerably good food. In winter the bedrooms
are always kept warm at night by means of porcelain stoves.
How welcome is the sight of the station when hungry, or af
ter a hard day's travel ! How cheerful is the blazing fire in
the stuga, and how comfortable and warm the feather-bed !
For one wishing to travel fast and cheaply the mail-coach is
the best conveyance. There are no stoppages, night or day ;
horses are always ready at the station at the time the mail is
due, and they are among the best ; but seats must be secured
days beforehand.
On a dark evening towards the middle of January I left the
old University town in company with a friend, a delightful
companion, Herr A  , a doctor of philosophy, who was
on his way to the city of Sundsvall, where he resided. We
left in a comfortable coach drawn by two horses. Shortly
after our departure a few fiakes of snow fell, the forerunner
of one of the grandest and most continuous snow-storras that
had fallen in Sweden for a hundred years. Faster and faster
they came down ; the snow increased rapidly as we advanced
northward, making slow progress ; but by travelling the whole
night we reached Yfre, the third post-station from Upsala, at
five o'clock A.M. After three hours' sleep, and a good break
fast, we started again refreshed. The Swedish sleighs pro
cured at the stations are very comfortable, and quite an im
provement on those of Norway. They seat two persons, and
are very hiuch like the sleighs commonly used in America.
After leaving Yfre we entered large forests of pine and fir.

38 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
From the city of Gefle the snow becarae deeper and deeper,
and the horses floundered through it at every step. The storm
had been remarkable for its stillness, and the forests of pine
had become exceedingly beautiful. The raercury being hardly
below freezing, the flakes were large and darap, and as they
fell remained on top of each other, and clung on the branches
of the pines ; and I often drove through a mass of white pyr
amids during the night.
The aurora borealis was sending streams of light upward,
with waves swaying to and fro over us, and everything was
very distinctly seen. The lofty trees and all the shrubs were
covered with a white mantle, the branches bending under the
weight. The pines of Scandinavia have a pyramidal shape.
Not a particle of green could be seen, and each tree was topped
with a sharp-pointed pinnacle of snow several feet high. The
spectacle was superb, and thousands upon thousands of these
lined each side of the road as far as the eye could reach. I
thought I was travelling in fairy-land, in the stillness and mar
vellous beauty of that winter night. At times I fancied I
could see minute sparkles of light coraing from the snow, and
became so excited by the scene that I told my companion that
if I had come all the way from America to see such a sight,
and nothing more, I should have been perfectly satisfied. He
caught my enthusiasm, and said that such forest scenery was
not often seen in Sweden. Here in the South the storm had
stopped for awhile, though we heard by telegraph that it was
still raging fiercely farther north.
Numerous crate - like sleighs, packed with game, were on
their way to Stockholm from Jemtland and the forests of
Norrland. We were all travelling in the same narrow track,
and each vehicle turning to the right, the horses sinking down
almost to their necks, and often having to make great efforts
to extricate themselves from the snow, jerking the sleigh, and
sometimes upsetting it and throwing us out. Only those who
were absolutely forced were travelling at this time. The
drivers had dogs which warned the people of their approach.
The meeting of the mail-coach was a cause of excitement.
On this road they carry two passengers inside and one outside;

EXCHANGING CIVILITIES ON THE HIGH-ROAD. 39
the postman carries a big sabre, and sometimes an old army
pistol : as for many years no highway robbery of the mail has
occurred, these precautions seera needless, though in old times
the mail-coaches were attacked when it was known that they
carried large amounts of specie. Any one who tries to pick a
quarrel, or to stop the mails in a di'unken frolic or otherwise,
is severely punished. In a short time we got acquainted with
the mail passengers while exchanging civilities in the shape
of cigars : my friend returning the compliment by passing
round his flask, one of the Swedes remarked that iu the cold
climate of Scandinavia something stronger than water was
necessary. " Oh," said another, " have you ever heard of any
great raan, either as a raaster intellect, a great writer, or a
great soldier, who has drank only water all his life ?" " I
never have seen a whole-souled, generous, unselfish man yet
that did not take a glass of wine," said the third companion.
As it was too cold to discuss the subject on the high-road —
and I must own that I was trying in vain to remeraber one —
I laughed, and said I did not recollect if there were any great
raen who had drank only water. I concluded it was better
not to discuss the subject.
How strange are these little Swedish towns in the depth of
winter ! At Hudiksvall we found the streets blocked up with
snow, and lighted by the old-fashioned square oil lamps, sus
pended by cords. There I witnessed another illustration of
the honesty of the people. When I reached the station of
Gnarp, I found that the driver of the other sleigh had forgot
ten to transfer my satchel, containing all the raoney I had pro
vided for the journey. There was a large amount of silver
coin for small change, and any one could tell the contents by
the weight, and I had not a copper with me. My companion
seemed to take for granted that everything was all right, and
that it would only occasion a loss of time. A man was sent
back to recover the missing bag, and he returned at four
o'clock in the raorning with the satchel and its contents.
The weather becarae colder, the mercury marking 17° beloW
zero during the night. The forest now presented a new api
pearance as we approached Sundsvall ; there was not a particle

40 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
of snow on the pine and fir trees, and the dark-green of their
branches contrasted beautifully with the white mantle which
covered the earth. The horses aud dogs of the northern coun
tries like the snow ; now and then the horses take a bite of it,
and the dogs, when thirsty, also eat it, and both roll themselves
in it : they seem to enjoy the dry cold atmosphere of winter.
The magpies would often follow us.
On the fourth day we reached Sundsvall. My thoughtful
companion had telegraphed from Hudiksvall, and soon after
our arrival we were seated at the Stadhuset before a good din
ner which he had ordered ; and over a glass of good old wine
we recounted the adventures of our journey to the friends who
had come to welcome him back. The snow was every day get
ting deeper. The distance between Sundsvall and Hernosand
is about thirty-five miles, and it took me three days to accom
plish this short journey. A few miles north of that town is
Aland, a hamlet composed of several farms. The landscape
was bleak, and the fjord was frozen ; but in summer the groves
of birch, the green meadows, and the waters of the sea present
a charming picture. The traveller, as he drives along, will see
a white-painted house at a short distance from the relay-sta
tion, between the highway and the rocky shores of the Baltic.
This was the pleasant home of a jagmastare — superintendent
of the forest of a district — a mighty Nimrod — a gentleman to
whom I had letters of introduction. From the station I wend
ed my way slowly through the deep snow towards that house
with my letters.
As I entered the gate I saw a maiden of about eighteen
years, a true child of the North, with fair hair, soft blue eyes,
and rosy cheeks, who was playing with the snow, and with a
little shovel was sending it in all directions. She was mak
ing a pathway, and seemed to enjoy the fun. The gentleness
and grace in all her motions, and delicacy of her features and
skin, at once showed that she was a young lady of refinement,
while the naivete of her manners indicated that she had been
brought up in the country. As I approached she stopped and
looked at me, as if to say, " What do you want, sir ?" Bow
ing to her, I inquired if the jiigmiistaro was at home. " Yes,"

THE HOME OF A JAGMASTARE, 41
was the answer, and with great composure she begged me to
follow her to the house, and leaving me in the parlor she
disappeared. Soon afterwards the jagmastare came and read
my two letters of introduction — one a general letter from the
Director-general in Stockholm to all the jagmastares, and the
other from a colleague of his.
" Welcome here !" said he, with great warmth, extending
his hand, " very welcome." He was over middle age, with a
pleasant countenance but determined features, and genial in
manner. He had read accounts of my travels and gorilla hunt
ing, and received me at once as a brother sportsman. The
young lady whom I had raet soou came back with refresh
ments. I was asked if I could travel on snow-shoes, and was
told that I must learn to walk on them, aud also to drive rein
deer. "My daughter can go on snow-shoes," said the father
with a sort of pride, " quite as well as a Laplander." " Yes
indeed," she said, " I love to go on them, it is such fun ! I
love winter." " Will you teach me to go on snow-shoes ?"
" Yes, certainly, with great pleasure. I am sure you will learn
quickly." " It is necessary," said the father, " that you should
learn to walk on them in order to go bear -hunting, for the
snow is very deep in the forest." " I can scull also," said the
daughter with a sort of girlish pride, " and in summer I like
to row on the fjord, and ramble into the woods in search of
wild -flowers." Looking at her, I thought the girl a flower
herself — a picture of health, and as fresh as the budding of
spring. The dress she wore had been woven and raade by
herself; the pattern was very pretty, and the raaterial hand
some. Brought up at home, she had learned to be industri
ous, and enjoy the more her hours or days of freedom.
" If you return early perhaps we shall be able to go after a
bear ; one is ringed about thirty miles frora here ; but if you
are late he may either be shot or have left his winter place,"
said the jagmastare, a great part of whose conversation ran on
bear-hunting, and how they are ringed. The bears in Scandi
navia sleep all winter ; but in the autumn, before the snow
comes, they look out for places where they want to hibernate,
and are then exceedingly shy, often spending several days go-

42 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
ing round and round their chosen place. In the far North
they remain as much as five or six months hidden and with
out food.
Before I left, the good jagmastare exacted a promise that I
should come again on my return from the North, and go to his
saeter ; then he added, " At all events, come back before I am
too old to go with you." Since that time I have been twice
to Aland, and each time warmly received ; but I have not yet
succeeded in going to the sseter or in hunting bears with him,
for in both cases the season was over. I shall always remem
ber Aland and the white house of the jagmastare, and hope
that at a not far distant day we may meet again and go bear-
hunting. The large snow-ploughs which one sees in summer lying by
the way-side were now dragged over the road by four, five, or
six horses, driven by two or three farmers, to level the track.
The laws in regard to the highways are very strict, and after
a snow-storm the farmers have to furnish horses, and break
and flatten the road for a certain distance. These ploughs are
a triangular frame of heavy timber, eight or ten feet wide and
about fifteen feet long; the work of the men and horses is
very hard, the men having to walk. Often during the night
when it was mild and foggy, or it had snowed, or the wind
had blown snow over the road and obliterated the traces of
preceding sleighs, we had to drive very cautiously ; for when
a mistake occurred, and we lost the ploughed track, we went
deep into the snow. In that case the intelligent horse was left
to himself, and knew what to do ; raost carefully he moved,
and when he sunk in going to the right he immediately made
the next step to the left, and vice versa. His sagacity was
so remarkable that it made me forget in part the weariness
of the drive. Occasionally we got at quite a distance from
the road, the first intimation being the animal sinking up to
his neck. After walking in several directions, trying the snow
with his feet, and sinking repeatedly, the driver finally found
the road by the firm snow. We then wondered how we could
have got so far frora it.
The snow kept increasing every raile northward. We tum-

TUE SNOW-PLOUGH.

A GREAT DEPTH OF SNOW, 43
bled on one side or another, upsetting before we were aware
of it. At each effort our animals made to extricate them
selves we were almost thrown out of the sleigh. The poor
brutes would sink to their necks, and soraetiraes alraost to
their heads. Each horse stepped in the track of the one that
preceded, so that, if the plough had not passed over, the tracks
would have been perfectly honey - combed : the holes were
often more than fifteen inches deep. At the end of the day's
travel, which averaged about eighteen hours, I felt so sore
and tired that I was glad to rest. The snow was so heavy
inland that some of the Lapps had to come to the coast with
their reindeer or they would have perished ; they had to feed
on the moss hanging from the branches of the pines and firs.
At last the fences, the shrubs, and the huge boulders were
hidden from view ; twigs of fir and pine had been planted
to show the way ; these, of course, are always put over the
fjords, lakes, and swamps, and many thousands of young
saplings are thus destroyed every year. The telegraph wires
were nearly out of sight. Snow-ploughs were levelling the
road everywhere ; farther south they were drawn by three
horses, but here the number had increased to six, and three
or four men had charge of each plough. These were followed
by wooden rollers, which packed the snow more closely. The
struggles of tlie horses became so great, in their efforts to ex
tricate themselves, that in some cases blood came from their
nostrils. I myself had to stop. Farther north the ploughs
were laid aside, and the snow was left to settle by its own
weight for a day or two before they would be used again. The
farmers did not understand how I could travel for pleasure
in such weather, and why I wished to go so far away. Few
persons were out-of-doors, but the thick smoke from the chim
neys showed that there were cheerful fires, round which the
families were gathered. All the winter outside work was sus
pended ; the hauling of logs in the forest was stopped. The
snow still increased as I advanced towards the north, and there
was more than twelve feet on a level. This is enormous, when
we consider that two feet is about the maxiraum that falls in
twenty-four hours. Here the strength of the great snow-storm

41: THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
had lasted a week, from Sunday to Sunday. Some of the
houses were covered to their roofs ; and galleries were neces
sary in many places to give light to the windows, with trenches
to reach the doors ; others were blocked up by drifts against
the doors, and exit had to be made by the windows. Here we
had reached the maximum of snow, which gradually dimin
ished afterwards; and twenty miles farther we came to the
small town of UmeS, which I found obstructed with snow. At
the relay-station a card was waiting for rae, upon which was
written in French the following raessage from a doctor of
philosophy: "If you have time, let me hear of your arrival,
for your friend. Director U  , has asked me to do all I could
to be agreeable and useful to you." This was another of the
many illustrations of the acts of thoughtful politeness of which
I had been the recipient from educated Scandinavians.
Though only a year and a half had elapsed since I had seen
the little town, time had worked great changes in the place.
The former governor of the province was dead, and univer
sally regretted by all who knew him. At the agricultural
school of Innertafle ray old friend and his wife received me
most kindly. " You cannot go farther to-day," said they, at
the same time helping me to divest myself of my winter garb;
and a short tirae after their daughter, a sweet little girl, pre
sented me with a little pocket-book, which she had embroid
ered with pearls especially for me, and which she intended
to send to me in America.
Since my departure from Upsala there had been at times
great changes in the weather. At Innertafle the temperature
had moderated so much that I was afraid it was the precursor
of another snow-storm. If more snow were added to the al
ready prodigious quantity which had had no time to pack, I
dreaded the prospect. These great snow-storras generally take
place when it is not very cold, and when the raercury ranges
from 2° to 11° below the freezing point. In February, the
coldest month of the year in those regions, such mild weather
was unusual. The following morning was gray, and the ther
mometer marked only 5° below freezing. The atmosphere
was foggy, and, as the fog fell on the groves of birches which

COMFORTABLE QUARTERS AT INNERVIK. 45
surrounded the house, it adhered to the branches, which ap
peared as if they had been covered with a dew which had
crystallized upon them, presenting a very beautiful and fairy
like appearance. These birches of Scandinavia are exceeding
ly beautiful, with their white trunks and branches gracefully
bending towards the ground. The following day the raercu
ry ranged from 5° to 7° below freezing, and we were between
lat. 63° and 64°.
Frora Innertafle I travelled all night ; and at five a.m., after
twenty-two hours of driving, tired and hungry, I carae to the
station of Innervik. The two previous stations were filled
with travellers, and there were no vacant beds. I raight have
slept on the floor, or on a bench, or on the table, but pre
ferred to go forward. At Innervik I found corafortable quar
ters, and fell into a dreamy sleep, in which I thought I was
bumped about in the sleigh, just as one sometimes feels the
motion of a ship a day or two after landing. The hamlet of
Innervik takes its name from the bay, and is distant about a
Swedish mile from the sraall town of SkellefteS.. From the
farm I could see the frozen sea below, looking now like a
vast field of snow. The weather had becorae colder again,
the thermometer remaining steady at 20° below freezing, and
a piercing wind warned rae that another cold wave was com
ing over the land. The little seaport of SkellefteS has quite
a number of streets, and the houses were large and comforta
ble. I was struck, while walking in the streets, with the num
ber of pretty young ladies witli oval faces, rosy cheeks, and
light and graceful carriage. They were certainly, I thought,
more numerous in proportion to the population than at any
place I had visited before.
In the North some small towns have a large building called
the stadshuset. It is a hotel, containing a spacious hall for en
tertainments, and a number of rooms for travellers, with a res
taurant and a cafe, private dining-rooms, and often a billiard-
room. The cooking is generally very good and the rooms
comfortable, and altogether superior to post- stations on the
road. After leaving SkellefteS, the cold spell was of short duration,

46 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
and when I reached PiteS, it had become mild again. We
were now out of the great snow belt, which in Sweden is be
tween lat. 61° and 64°. The weather was so mild for Febru
ary that in the morning it was only 7° below freezing ; from
hour to hour it became milder, and in the afternoon, when I
arrived at PiteS,, the thermoraeter stood at freezing-point, and
remained so for a few hours ; it rose in the evening to 36°,
at 6 o'clock P.M. it was 34°, at 8 p.m. 30°. The air was per
fectly still, and not a cloud could be seen, but the horizon was
hazy. At about 7.30 I noticed a soft and luminous atmos
phere towards the north, the forerunner of the aurora borealis.
Soon afterwards a wide arc of haze, full of light, appeared,
through which the stars could be seen. The clearness of the
sky above and below the arc was remarkable. The highest
point of the lower edge seemed to be about 35° above the ho
rizon, and within was Jupiter and other stars shining brightly.
The whole body began to show signs of motion ; the tremor
became more and more perceptible frora one end to the other
of the bright hazy mass ; its motion increased, and it became
more luminous, and swayed to and fro in undulating waves.
Within half an hour another arc was forraed under the first,
the centre of the second being 15° or 20° below the other.
Through the body of this also stars could be seen, and be
tween the two arcs, and above and below, the sky was clear:
the second at first showed hardly any signs of raotion, and
its brightness was as that of the Milky Way. Sheets of glim-
raering light streamed from the horizon, disappearing and re
appearing. The light became more and more brilliant, quick
er and quicker became the motion of the waves ; they swayed
to and fro from one end of the arc to the other; the dis
charges of the electric glow became more intense, varying in
brightness— the quicker the motion the brighter the light-
indicating that a great magnetic storm was raging.
Soon changes in the centre of the luminous body began to
be noticeable ; the waves as they rolled began to change from
white to bluish, from green to violet, and then carae almost a
blending of all the colors. The lower arc in the mean time
had shown signs of motion, and of the electric storm ; sheets

WINTER LIFE IN A TOWN. 47
of light from the horizon became more vivid as they shot up
ward — a spectacle of great beauty. The upper part of the
swaying mass was fringed with a magnificent dark-red border,
singularly contrasting with the color of the lower part, till the
whole arc became of a fiery red; then the waves began to
move more slowly, the flashes of light became dimmer, and
the great storm Avas coming to an end; the red mass was
broken into numerous fragments, which were scattered over
the sky, and finally nothing was left over our heads but the
blue starry heavens of that winter night.
Life in many towns by the sea is one of great dulness ; they
seem dead, on account of the stagnation of trade ; the farmers
do not come to the villages for news or business ; few sleighs
are passing to and fro, but now and then a load of wood comes
in ; goods are seldom transported from Stockholm, for it would
be too tedious and expensive, and everybody waits for the
summer season. The only time when there seems more ac
tivity is when a fair is to take place in the interior ; then the
merchants are sending goods for sale; but this bustle lasts
only a day or two.
The Swedes are passionately fond of cards. In the sitting-
rooms are sometimes scattered a number of little tables where
ladies and gentlemen play together. In the hotels, or at- their
own houses, men occasionally pass the whole night in gaming.
It is a custom to play together for a given number of days in
a week, in which there are often heavy stakes, and frequently
a considerable amount of money changes hands ; but I was
told that at .the end of the season the players generally came
out about even, as the partners are changed.
They also have singing clubs, which meet on Sunday af
ternoons. While in PiteS, I was invited to the home of a
teacher who taught English in one of the schools, and could
speak it well. At his house every Sunday afternoon about
twenty ladies and gentlemen met to practise the singing of
church music, and some exceedingly pretty ballads which are
taught in the schools. Some of the voices were beautiful, and
the performances of this little society would have been cred
itable to any company of trained artists: two pleasant hours

48 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
were spent in this way. The climate of the country seems to
benefit the vocal organs, and during the long winter months
little rausical sociables are constantly taking place. Now and
then a ball is given, alraost always in the large roora of the
stadshuset ; in such cases tickets are sold, or an admittance fee
is charged to defray the expenses. Almost everybody goes —
especially the raarriageable darasels, with their raammas ; all
gentlemen are in full dress : there are seats around the ball
room for the ladies. One meets the old and young — for even
old married couples like to have a dance, and it is quite com
mon to see a married man or an old gentleraan dance with a
young girl, or vice versa. Waltzes and galops are the favorites.
One of the peculiarities which struck me was that, immediate
ly after a dance was over, the gentlemen would quietly return
their partners to their mammas or friends, and then disappear
in the next room. They smoked, drank, ate, or talked, till
they were again called by their engagements for the next
dance. Now and then they brought in some refreshment for
the ladies. After these intervals they seemed to enjoy the
fun with renewed vigor.
From PiteS the snow continued to diminish greatly in depth
the farther north I travelled. After LuleS the Finnish was
only spoken by the farmers. At these stations no one thought
of locking his trunks, as it would not look well. At Jemton
the servant-girl brought me a gold locket which she found on
the floor of the kitchen. I had dropped it from my satchel
the evening before while showing thera the curiosities which
it contained. I said, playfully, " Why did you not keep it ?"
She replied, " How, then, could I ever walk erect and look
people in the face ?"
I had hardly left this station the next morning when I was
startled by a call, and as I looked back I saw a sraall white-
headed urchin, whose cap had just tumbled frora his head,
running after us as fast as he could ; I stopped ray horse.
He had in his hand a white pocket-handkerchief of mine
which I had dropped on the road. It would have been a nice
thing for him to keep, but his boyish heart was too honest ;
lie handed it to me breathless, and ran back as quickly as he

A LUCKY FARMER. 49
came; and though I called him, to give him a few ores, the
little fellow, who was not afraid to return Aviiat did not belong
to him, feared to come back to get a bit of money.
At Saiwits the station-master knew Swedish, and his farm
being very comfortable, I concluded to remain a couple of
days. This man, Kivijarvi, was considered by all a lucky
fellow to have secured the heart and hand of Maria Fredrika
over all his rivals. He had raarried a wife who had brought
to him her farm ; for in Sweden, as well as in Norway, as soon
as a woraan marries all she has goes to her husband, so that
all the girls who have or are to inherit farms have no trouble
in getting married. Such will have many admirers, for here,
as elsewhere, wealth has its charms. But to a stranger it did
not seem to matter rauch, for the owner of an estate works as
hard as any of his hands, and the wife as rauch as any of her
maids. The farm had eighteen cows, quite a number of sheep,
and a goodly number of acres of grazing and grain land. There
M-ere two dwelling-houses — one for the reception of strangers
and friends. I found the people here were very shy.
While here a woman came and asked rae if I had met her
husband, who had gone to Norway and had remained there :
she had heard indirectly from him. During my journey iu
Scandinavia I found several poor women with their children
who had been deserted by their husbands aud fathers, who, un
der the pretext of going to Araerica to see how it looked be
fore bringing their families, never wrote, and were never heard
of again.
The weather, which had remained cold for a week, and va
ried from about 1° to 18° below zero, began to moderate, and
then came on the mildest temperature I had raet since I left
Christiania; the mercury stood at eight o'clock a.m. at 36°,
at noon, 45°, and at three p.m. fell back to 38°.
Frora Saiwits we came to Nikkala, the last station before
Haparanda. I was welcomed by the farmer, for he had heard
of me, and had wondered if I would stop with him. Fresh
logs were thrown into the fire, and the cheerful flames lighted
the kitchen, where coffee was made and served in the parlor.
I was a guest, and for the first day it would not have done for
VOL. II. E

50 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
me to reraain all the time in the kitchen. Flower-pots with
carnations, roses, geraniums, etc., were at the windows. The
raother, Matilda Serlota (Charlotte), and the daughter, Maria
Matilda, a perfect blonde, and really a good-looking girl, and
Abram (Abraham), the son, and Maria Kajsa, the maid of all
work, with the husband, composed the family at that time.
When I asked the daughter to write her name and those of
her people in one of my memorandum -books, used for the
purpose of judging of the education of the people, I learned
here, as I had farther north, that the young among the farm
ers wrote badly, sometimes unintelligibly, and raany of the
old people did not know how to write at all, but old and
young knew how to read.
From Nikkala to Haparanda the distance is about six
miles. There was but little snow; it had drifted badly in
raany places, showing that we were in a windy region ; in oth
ers the road was bare, and nowhere was the snow two feet
deep on the level. Dreary, indeed, appeared the frozen sea
in its white raantle, and the long low granite proraontories,
clad with fir and darker pines, coraing down to the ice-bound
shore. But beautiful was the pale-blue sky in contrast with
the white robe which covered the country, and the pale rays
of the sun did not seera to give any heat.
Late in the afternoon on the 17th of February, IS 73, 1 came
to Haparanda, at the mouth of the Torne River, after a jour
ney of 740 miles frora Stockholm over the deepest snow I
had ever crossed. I had been over five weeks on the way, but
felt none the worse for the journey. I had now reached the
extreme northern part of the Gulf of Bothnia. The coast was
low, fringed by birches, and the gulf looked like a vast white
plain. The farms were few and far apart, and there was an
oppressive dreariness about the whole landscape.

A VIOLENT WIND-STORM. 51

CHAPTER Y.
Winter between the Gulf of Bothnia and the Arctic Sea.— Leaving Haparanda.—
A Wind-storm.— A Female Driver.— A Welcome Station.— AVinter Dross of Fin-
landers.— Cold AA''eather.— Clear Atmosphere.— A Humble Cottage.— Wilhelmina.
— Sugar-crackers. — Niemis again. — A rather Strong AVelcome. — Cow-houses. —
Ruskola. — Carl John Grape. — A Terrible Storm. — A Rich Servant-girl. — Snow-
shoes. — ^Learning how to go on Snow-shoes. — A Cold Church. — Pirtiniemi. — An
Old Friend. — Sattajiirvi and its Kindly People. — A Female Companion. — Elsa
Karolina. — On the Frozen Munio. — Arkavaara. — A Night at Muonionalusta. —
The Lovers. — Welcomed once more to Muoniovaara.
In Avinter the country between the Gulf of Bothnia and the
Arctic Sea is subject to violent winds, which sweep northAA'ard
over the frozen surface with no obstacle to lessen their fury.
We left Haparanda in a storm so severe that our horse could
hardly proceed ; and, as it increased, our sleigh was often in
danger of upsetting. The snow flew in thick cloudy masses
to a great height, curling and recurling upon itself in vari
ous fantastic shapes. The Avind whistled round us, and it was
fortunate that our clothing and everything else was made fast,
for one of the large heavy reindeer gloves worn over my
thick AvooUen mittens was blown away as I changed hands to
drive, and was so quickly buried in the shifting drift that I
could not find it again. My driver at the second station was
a stout girl of twenty, strong enough to wrestle any man, but
shy, modest, and gentle. I could not tell how she looked, for
her face, like mine, was entirely wrapped up. When I entered
the post station-house at Korpikyla I was quite dizzy, and for a
moment could not Avalk straight. The gale had now risen to
such a height that it was impossible to travel farther that day.
During the night it blew with still greater fury, howling so
wildly round the house that I could not sleep. Towards raorn
ing the storra abated for a fcAV hours, but the wind rose again,
E 2

52 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
and blew with greater fury than before. Grand, indeed, was
the sight, as I stood on the banks of the Torne River watching
the spectacle. The tempest swept over the land with incred
ible force ; the suoav rose in thick clouds, forming deep drifts
and hillocks, Avliich shifted constantly. This great storm, the
grandest of that year in that region, lasted, Avith the exception
of a few lulls, OA'er three days. During that time the temper
ature ranged from 7° to 22° below zero.
As soon as the people began to move from farm to farm
the news was spread that the stranger from America had re
turned, and on Sunday the farmers came pouring in from the
whole neighborhood — even from the other side of the Torne
River. The winter costumes were not so picturesque as in
other places. The men wore long overcoats lined with sheep
skin ; the Avomen's dresses consisted of a body of black cloth
with a skirt made of thick homespun, a long heavy jacket,
having sheepskin inside, and a Avarm hood. Many of our
guests remained all day, and nearly all of them invited me to
visit them. They sung for me, but their voices were inferior
to those of the Swedish peasantry. Tlie amazement of these
good people was great when they heard I was going north.
After the storm the thermometer ranged from 22° to 27° be
low zero morning and evening to 30° at night, and from 13°
to 18° below zero in the afternoon — the atmosphere being
perfectly still. I was no raore a stranger with the people, and
had to stop at several farras on the Avay. They knew the time
I Avas to pass, and did not wish me to continue my journey
without stopping awhile at their houses. Coffee, bread-and-
butter, cheese, and dried mutton were set before rae, and I
was plied with questions as to ray purpose in going so far at
this inclement season. " It is no fun to live with the Lapland
ers — stay with us this winter, Paul," said they ; " we Avill teach
you hoAV to go on snoAv-shoes, and we Avill hunt bears Avhen the
time arrives."
The cheerful open fireplace of the farms of Sweden and
Norway had given place to the clumsy thick stone structure
of the Finns.
One who has never travelled in winter in northern lands

A HUMBLE HOME. 53
can have no conception of the clearness of the atmosphere
when the temperature is from 30° to 40° below zero. Then
there is not a breath of Avind, generally not a cloud in the sky,
the blue of AA-hich is very light. The outlines of the distant
forest-clad hills are of a peculiar light purplish blue of inde
scribable softness, and are so sharp and distinct that they are
seen from a greater distance than in raore southern countries.
There are also raany different shades of color in the sky — pale
blue one day, deeper the next. This dry still cold is so healthy
that it never even parches the lips, no matter how long one
remains out-of-doors ; during the whole of that winter raine
were not sore once ; it seems to give strength to the lungs and
banishes all kinds of throat diseases.
Soon after leaving Korpikyla, coming to a farm along the
road I saw a little girl watching for some one. As soon as she
saw ray sleigh she rushed through the snow towards rae, and
bade me corae in. Her narae was Hilda Karolina. Hardly had
I entered the large roora when she put her arms around ray
neck, gave rae a kiss, and told rae that every day she had put
on her snow-shoes and run out to look for me. Though we
could not talk rauch to each other we managed to become
good friends. She was a true child of the North, with fiaxen
hair, deep soft blue eyes, reminding one of the sky, very white
skin, and rosy cheeks — healthy, strong, and consequently hap
py — far happier than many children clad in costly garments,
and surrounded by so many playthings that they take no pleas
ure in them.
A little farther on was a humble log-house, where lived
Greta Maria, a poor widow, and her four daughters. They
were standing on the porch Avatching for me, for they would
not let me pass without inviting me in. I entered the plain,
small, but very clean room ; and while the mother and daugh
ters were spinning we talked. The old lady wore glasses, and
age had made her handsome and dignified. Some of her daugh
ters found employment among the farras, or worked by the
day. All the women know how to spin and weave, and work
in the fields also. Greta and the daughters then with her
supported themselves by weaving for others on their loom at

54 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
home, and by buying a little stock of spun cotton thread and
raaking white or colored handkerchiefs ; or at other houses
they raade Avoollen cloth. They got along very well, enjoy
ing good health, though without even a coav ; a few goats fur
nished them raost of the milk they wanted, and some sheep
the wool they needed for their garments. They were satisfied
with their coramon healthy fare, and by economy managed to
have always a little coffee in the house, to offer to a friend
or stranger. They lived on coarse flat bread with sour milk,
cheese, and sometimes butter, hardly ever tasting meat; the
dried flesh of the sheep or goats they killed every year was
kept for festive days, such as Christmas or Sundays, or for the
entertainment of strangers. Now and then they would eat
fish, which they had caught and salted in summer, or game
presented to the mother by some one Avho Avas trying to win
the heart of her handsorae fiaxen-haired daughter Wilhelmina,
'Avlio was considered the flower of the family. They asked me
all sorts of questions. They were apparently perfectly con
tented, and loved their simple home and northern climate;
they did not repine against their lot, for their religious belief
was that whatever God did was the best for them ; on the
shelf was a Avell-worn Bible and other religious books several
generations old. They did not care about the allurements and
Avealth of the world. " There is another life," said the old
woman to me; "let us be good, and love God AA-ith all our
hearts." When the Aveather was fine she never missed going
to church, though it was at a considerable distance. I could
not leave without taking a cup of coffee ; but it AA-as mixed
Avith roast barley, for they could not afford to have it pure.
Wilhelmina bit off a piece of rock-c^md}', Avhich she gave
rae, to put in my mouth Avhile drinking the coffee ; her rosy
lips and Avhite teeth seemed to rae such charming sugar-
crackers that 1 had no objection to the Avny the sugar Avas
broken. While I was taking coffee all kinds of advice was
given me for the journe}'; for, though it Avas 35° beloAv zero,
it would be colder still ; in order not to freeze my nose and
cars I raust rub them Avith snow noAv and then, and use my
mabk often ; I must always hang \\\> my stockings to dry in

THE STATION OF NIEMIS. 55
the evening, so that they Avill not be damp in the morning ; I
must take the grass out of my shoes and dry it well, and not
forget to hang up my shoes. The earnestness of their recom
mendations showed that they came from the heart. Saying
good-bye, I put a little money into the hands of the mother.
"No," she said. "Yes," I answered, and jumped into the
sleigh ; the tAvo tucked the robes around me. " Welcome
back, Paul !" Avere the last words I heard, and soon we were
out of sight.
As my eyes rested on the dark beautiful distant forest-clad
hills, I thought I had never before seen such effects. Now
and then we drove on the frozen Torne River, to shorten the
Avay, passing by raany little farras and poor cottages. Here a
farraer is considered well off if he possesses a farm valued at
1000 to 1500 dollars; the buildings alone in Araerica would
cost several thousand dollars. The little station-house of Nie
mis was almost buried by drifted suoav ; the well was sur
rounded by a heavy. mass of ice, which kept increasing every
day as the drippings of the bucket fell upon it. I entered the
dirty room AA'here the family lived. The old raan put on his
long coat lined Avith sheepskin, which had seen its best twenty
or thirty years ago ; he had pride enough to wish to hide his
Avorn and dirty clothes; he then put on his fur cap, and was
dressed. His wife put on her old sheepskin jacket, with the
hair inside; while Kristina, a daughter of sixteen or seven
teen, rushed to the well for a bucket of water to wash her
face and hands; she then undid the tresses of her hair, which
fell in a thick, Avavy, amber-like mass over her shoulders, and
combed it in such a hurry that much was torn out ; then she
tressed it again, and put a clean bodice and skirt over the
dirty one, and finished her toilet by putting on her Sunday
shoes. The mother, in the mean time, SAvept the room, and put
more wood in the open fireplace. A noAV-comer made her ap
pearance — a former acquaintance of mine, the mother of the
farmer — an old woman of eighty years, yet Avith hair almost
black falling loosely over her shoulders, combed perhaps twice
a month ; she reminded me of an old gypsy: she squeezed me
in her arms to show the depth of her feelings, and hoAV glad she

56 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
was to see me once more ; and I felt that, notwithstanding her
age, she was still strong. I could not free myself until she
released me, and I shall long remember that tight embrace.
Their cow-house was a curiosity; it was a small log -house,
almost buried in the snow ; four cows were there, and they
were so thin that their ribs and bones protruded. The hay
crop had laeen poor. As in all similar houses, a large iron
pot was encased in raasonry, and used to cook the coarse
marsh-grass for the cattle. During the winter months the
cows do not go out at alt ; every aperture is closed against the
entrance of cold. I could not leave these good people Avithout
partaking of a cup of Avarm milk, for which they would take
no money.
I continued my route with a new horse and sleigh, the
snow increasing in depth as I AA'ent on. At Ruskola I was re
ceived with open arms by my friends Carl John Grape and
his wife, who wanted me to tarry, to learn how to go on snow-
shoes and to speak the Finnish l-'.nguage. Carl's farm was a
very good one. I could not lielp noticing how industrious the
people were ; Selma Maria was a model of a farmer's wife, a
thorough house-keeper, always busy — cooking, washing, weav
ing, spinning, baking, sewing, knitting, or making butter from
morning till night. The children had to be looked after, and
taught to read, that they might learn their catechism. Sel
ma, SSfia (Sophie), Hilda, Emma, Carl, Thilda, Amelia, were
the names of these children, and they looked like a flight of
stairs, so closely did they follow each other. A maid and two
men servants made the remainder of the family, besides two
or three other farm-hands paid by the day. A poor girl is
often hired to do house-Avork, or Aveaving or spinning, for a
few days, that her family may be helped a little : in summer
Grape would often hire one or two extra, unnecessary hands,
simply to help his poor neighbors. Eva Maria, the maid, was
quite a belle in the neighborhood ; she had rather high cheek
bones, florid complexion, tine teeth, Avith youth and health,
and was the maid of all Avork, having entire charge of the
cow-stable and the milking. The most reraarkable thing Avas
that she Avas rich, possessing 1800 or 2000 kronor (about 500

AN INDEPENDENT MAW OF ALL WORK. 57
dollars) in her own right, being au orphan girl. Many were
trying to make love to her, and several had proposed mar
riage, but she laughed at all her suitors, and wanted to be
free and independent ; not seeing why she should marry to
be afterwards poor, since all her little fortune would belong
to her husband. "No, indeed," she AA'ould say, "I ara not
going to get married ; I prefer to work all day long ;" and
then merrily sung and laughed. Eva Maria was kind and
amiable to every one, even to those who Avanted to be lovers,
and these were plenty, for she not only had money but was
intelligent and industrious — in a word, quite a prize.
While in Ruskola another violent tempest swept over the
country, preventing further travel. The frozen Torne seemed
to be enveloped in a cloud of white dust, and for tAventy-
four hours there Avas no cessation of the blustering wind ; at
times it snowed very heavily, and the thermoraeter stood only
7° below freezing. After the storm huge drifts of snow raade
the roads impassable. Grape advised me to Avait a few days
before continuing my journey; "for," said he, "Ave do not
plough the roads here: let other people travel first, and then
the road will be in better condition."
For several weeks I had applied rayself Avith all ray raight
to the study of the Finnish language. Each syllable is very
distinct, raaking it easy to acquire ; but a greater number of
words are often necessary to express an idea than in English.
Two things are essential to a traveller who wishes to see thor
oughly these northern countries — he must know how to travel
on snoAv-shoes, and how to drive reindeer. With these two
accomplishments he can roam Avhere he likes.
The snoAv-shoes used in Scandinavia are very unlike those
of the Indians of North America, and are far superior for
speed and comfort, requiring no spreading of the limbs. At
the first glance one may think them clumsy, on account of
their great length. Those used in a mountainous or wooded
country are the shortest, and generally six or seven feet long ;
those used by the Finlanders on the banks of the Torne are
much longer, averaging sorae ten or twelve feet. The longest
are those of Jeratland, where they sometimes measure four-

58 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
teen to sixteen feet. They are raade of fir wood, about one-
third of an inch thick at the centre, which is the thickest part,
and four or five inches wide. There is a piece of birch at the
centre, and over this is a loop through which the instep of
the foot is passed ; the part near the foot is convex, so that
the weight of the body cannot bend the shoe downward. The
under part is very sraooth, with a narrow furrow; both ends
are pointed.
The boots of the Finlanders are specially adapted to snow-
shoes, they being pointed, without heels, and so large that the
foot can be surrounded by Lapp grass. With two pairs of
home-made woollen stockings one can defy the cold, but the
foot raust be perfectly free. In travelling, one always carries
a good stock of Lapp shoe-grass. Grape gave me a very beau
tiful pair of snow-shoes (now, with one of my sleighs, in the
rooms of the American Geographical Society of New York).
They were adraired by all who saw them when I traA'elled
north. Ruskola was a very good school in which to take the
first lessons, the Torne being frozen and covered Avith snow,
Avith a surface sraooth and easy for a beginner. While there
I practised on snow-shoes several hours a day. If a raan has
to travel in a, flat country he raust have two staves, at the
end of each of which is au iron spike, and a little above this
Avicker-work, about ten inches in diameter, to prevent the stick
from sinking deeper ; when the snow is soft, these serve to
propel the person forward.
Snow-shoes raust not be raised, but slid one after the oth
er, unless Avheu going down a hill ; then the feet are kept
side by side, if possible. The natives can easily go ten or
fifteen miles an hour when the suoav is firm and in good con
dition. For a beginner the great difficulty is to keep the two
shoes exactly parallel, and prevent thera from becoming en
tangled Avith each other. On a level surface the walker can
not hurt himself in falling on the deep snow -^ a great ad
vantage over skating, for ice, as raany know by experience, is
not a pleasant bed to fall upon. The first day, after two hours'
practice, I could slide on the Torne River a thousand yards
without falling. It is verv difficult to Avalk on the crusted

A LAPP GOING DOWN-HILL ON SNOW-SilOES.

HOW TO TRAVEL WITH SNOW-SHOES.

59

snow without a great deal of practice, as the shoes tend to slide
too far apart, or the lower or upper ends overlap each other.
The ascent of hills is made in zigzag, and is hard work for
those not accustomed to it. But the most difiicult of all is to
descend the steep hills, as the momentum and speed are very
great ; it is even quite dangerous in mountainous regions, and
AA'here boulders are uncovered ; it is safe only for those who
have practised from childhood, for the speed is as great as
in coasting. I have often trembled at seeing Norwegians or

^s9i

'jiU.^ywt
¦^
^
-
.^.
,
MttV -
J
Fa^t".. ¦
g;5.,«.,.riamTaa^
jmrnmrnr-
.,J5^ ^^
^"
wm»
-*:" ' ^
WALKING WITU GNOW-SUOES.
Lapps come doAvn the mountains. In descending, the tAvo
shoes must be parallel and close together — a very difiicult task,
and alraost impossible on rough ground. One must have a
long stout staff for a rudder and guide, to be used on the
right or left, as occasion requires, and the body must be bent
forward. I have never been able to descend in this manner.
In going down a steep hill he Avho cannot imitate a Scandi
navian or Lapp must ride a staff, resting upon it as heavily
as he can, taking care, also, to keep the shoes even. The staff
acts as a drag, and prevents him frora going too fast. I was
60 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
not successful the first time I tried. I had not slid a yard be
fore ray shoes left rae and went to the bottora of the embank
ment, and I found myself seated in the snow. I had not bent
my body forward enough for the momentum of speed. I tried
again, but with no better success. I have frequently seen the
children in Norway practice jumping on their snow-shoes.
Sometimes, where one side of the road was higher than the
other, they would leap over to the other side, and land up
right, often from a height of seven or eight feet, and even
more, enjoying the excitement araazingly.
On Sunday I went to the old log -church of Matarengi,
built two hundred years ago. The day was so cold that the
clergyraan read the service and preached in a heavy fur coat,
and every one in the congregation was dressed in furs.
I left Ruskola with the thermometer standing at 34° below
zero. As the horse stood before the door, with my snow-shoes
tied to the sleigh. Grape called rae into the guest-room. He
then opened a bottle of old wine, and he and his wife drank to
my health and the success of my journey. The good fellow
was sorry to see me depart. As I drove along, admiring the
marvellous shades of the distant hills, I saw now and then a
woman getting a bucket of water frora an almost frozen Avell,
or hurrying from the cow-house ; or a man was taking a load
of wood from the shed by the farm. I enjoyed those winter
scenes in the highest degree. The dry and bracing atmos
phere seemed to give me additional strength. What a glori
ous contrast was it with that of the miasraatic equatorial Afri
can jungle, where a white raan's life is a continual struggle
against death !
At the end of the day I reached the station of Pirtiniemi,
where in the summer I had crossed on a ferry-boat to the
other side of the lake, to raeet the highway. The thermome
ter stood at 32° below zero, and the night Avas superb. The
flashes of the aurora borealis darted high into the heavens,
and the stars twinkled brightly through that clear blue sky.
Pirtiniemi was indeed a poor station to spend the night in.
All the family and wayfarers were in the kitchen, which was
far from clean. Some were sitting around the blazing fire,

-1 COLD BEDROOM. 61
smoking and chatting; Avhile several others were asleep on
skins on the floor, but the color of the robes on the beds was
very dingy and uninviting. The wife could speak Swedish,
and immediately on my arrival there was a great bustle ; cof
fee and the best supper they could afford were prepared. The
large roora for travellers was clean, and a big fire was imme
diately lighted in the oven-like fireplace ; the structure, how
ever, was not in order, and the thick masonry would not get
heated, as there was nothing to prevent most of the heat escap
ing up the chimney. The bed Avas brought near the fire, and
when made presented a nice appearance. I was to sleep be-
tAveen two fine soft robes of hareskin, as Avhite as suoav, and
other robes of fur were spread over me. In spite of the fire
the raercury stood at 18° in the room during the night. The
farmer excused himself for the poor accommodation he had to
offer me. The house was very old ; they were going to build
a better one — indeed, it was already partly built; but "we
must go slowly," said he. " I bought this farm for nine hun
dred rix-dollars, and I owe six hundred on it ; the tiraes have
been hard, and there is the five per cent, interest on those six
hundred rix-dollars to be paid every year."
I slept splendidly, though when I awoke the mercury mark
ed 15° below zero in my roora, and 34° outside. The wife had
a sister in Araerica, and that seemed to be a bond of friendship
between us. " Try to see her," she said, " Avlien you go back.
Tell her that we are all well, aud that God is kind to us."
The sister lived in Michigan, which State seemed to the wife
about as large as her parish, and fancied that in New York
every one knew her sister. " Don't you remember," said she,
as I was ready to start, " the girl who drove you to the next
station the summer you were here ? But now you would hard
ly recognize her, for she is a big girl. How happy she was
when back again, and showing the little silver piece you had
given her! It was the first one ever owned by her. What
you did on the way was told : hoAv you gave her sorae biscuit
that had been brought all the way from America, and some
candies. Go and see her, for she often speaks of the stranger
who gave her money, and wonders if he will ever come back ;

62 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
she has often said that she would like to see him again. How
glad she will be ! The boy who will drive you to-day knows
the way to her house, which is on a farm in Korpilombolo,
not far frora the church. Good-bye ! Welcome back on your
return ! Happy journey ! Take great care of yourself, for it
will be very cold in the far North, and you will have to sleep
on the snow."
When I stopped at that farm-house in Korpilombolo and
entered the door, a large, bright, beautiful girl met me. Sud
denly a smile came over her face, for she recognized me, al
though I was dressed like a Laplander. She was my dear
little driver of the year before, but she had grown much since
then. Soon after my arrival the house was crowded with the
neighbors. The clergyman, a strong healthy young man, a
native Finn, came also. I found him exceedingly agreeable.
Soon a raan was pointed out to rae who had returned in the
suraraer frora the United States, where he had remained only
a year, getting so home-sick that he came back to the land of
his ancestors. How strong is the love of home or country in
the hearts of many ! No hope of gain could have made that
raan stay in a strange land. He loved and dreamed of the
long days in the land of the midnight sun ; the long nights
of his northern home ; the snow ; and the birch, fir, and pine
forests. The farther he was from them the more beautiful
they appeared to his vision, and his friends Avere much dearer
to hira than strangers.
But, when years have elapsed, how disappointed are we on
our return ! Father and mother are dead ; sister and brother
have left home ; old school friends are scattered, or, if still
living, the bloom of boyhood or girlhood has given place to
deep furrows on the face, the buoyant spirit of youth has gone,
the gray hair shows the ravages of time ; the laughing girl
Avith whom Ave gathered fiowers has becorae a sedate matron ;
the fields do not seem so large as they used to ; the trees are
not so big, the fences not so high, the rocks less toAvering; the
barn is rauch smaller, and the river has dwindled to a brook ;
the great school-house has shi-unk to a small room. The eyes
of childhood magnify everything. At that time of life the

A WELCOME IN SATTAJARVI. 63
days, months, and years were much longer, and vacation seemed
as if it Avould never end. Now time passes aAvay more swiftly.
It was spring yesterday ; it is summer to-day ; and the winter
will come to-morrow. How much quicker does time fly as we
groAV older !
After leaving Korpilombolo we took the Avinter road, marked
by branches of trees, raade a short cut over frozen marshes
and swamps, through forests and fields, and arrived at the post-
station of Otanajarvi. The weather Avas fine, though cold ;
even in the afternoon the mercury remained at 30° beloAv
zero ; the snow Avas gradually increasing in depth, but the
drifts were getting scarcer. At Sattajarvi I found that some
one had preceded me on the way, and that the people had not
forgotten Paulus, but were waiting to welcome him. The
reception-room Avas soon filled AA'ith people. " Here is Paulus
again," said they, as they looked at me with amazement, " all
the way from Stockholm ! Did you ever see such a man ?
Paulus, where are you going ?" " To Norway, to North Cape,
to live with the Laplanders, and to the Norwegian fisheries."
A shout of exclamation arose at these words. " Go and live
with the Laplanders ? It is true, we see ; we had read this in
the newspapers, but we did not believe it."
" Where is my friend Kristina ?" said I. (The reader remem
bers, perhaps, the girl whora the people wanted rae to take to
America on ray first visit.) "Why, have you not seen her?
She lives in Pirtiniemi." " No," said I ; " it is too bad."
" Paulus, you are not going to-day ? Indeed, we shall not let
you go ; you must stay sorae time with us. We hear that you
have been in America since we saw you." "Yes," said I,
"but only for a few days." This speech made them look
with still greater wonder upon me. " What are you going to
do ? You will find people talking only Finnish or Lappish,
and you will have a long journey to Norway." " Yes," said
I, " I shall have trouble. It is hard to travel in a country if
one cannot talk with the people." More logs were thrown
into the fireplace, a meal was served, and we continued to talk
to a very late hour.
The following raorning a young Finn girl Avas brought to

64 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
me. The people of Sattajiirvi had given me a guide in summer,
and they wanted me to have one also in winter. They said,
" Paulus, we bring you a girl to go to Norway Avith you. She
has been there before, and can talk Norwegian, which you can
understand, so she will be able to interpret for you." They
all seemed happy to have found somebody to help me. It
never occurred to these primitive, kind-hearted people that I
could A'-iolate the trust put in me.
Elsa Karolina was a young and pretty girl of seventeen
years. Her mother was dead, and her father lived a few miles
frora Sattajarvi, and was very poor. Two of her sisters had
raigrated to Norway, where one was married ; she had come
frora there herself a few months before, over the mountains,
with Lapps, to Pajala, to be confirmed, for here was the church
where she had been baptized, and where she must obtain the
certificate necessary for her in any other district. She seemed
glad at the prospect of going Avith me, and was even Avill-
ing to follow me to America. How beautiful is the trust of
that primitive life which, in its simplicity, does not see the
evil, treachery, trickery, and rascality of a higher civilization !
Why should she be afraid? Avhy should the people fear for
her? I promised that, wherever I landed on the coast of Fin
marken or Norway, I Avould make arrangements to let her go
to her sisters. They believed me, and that Avas enough.
The good people of the little hamlet of Sattajarvi rejoiced
AA'hen they heard I would return frora the North in the spring;
they said, "You raust then stay many days with us, Paulus."
At Pajala a large and comfortable school-house had been built
since I had left ; a teacher and his wife lived in the building,
and a fine piano adorned one of the plainly furnished rooms
of the faraily.
Here we found the suoav much deeper than at Haparanda.
There had been several heavy falls, Avhich made it of a depth of
five or six feet in the Avoods. I could go to Norway over the
frozen Torne, through Jukkasjiirvi, and then over the moun
tains to the Ofoten fjord, situated about lat. 68° 40'. This
route would leave me unacquainted Avitli a large tract of coun
try northward, Avherc the Laplanders Avere the most numerous

A COMFORTABLE STOPPING-PLACE. 65
in Avinter. I concluded to continue ray journey by ascending
the Muonio River to Lake Kilpisjarvi, of which it is the out
let, and then over the mountains to Lyngen fjord, above lat. 69°,
almost opposite the Lofoden Islands, thus seeing the country
I had not explored in suramer. In winter the distance from
Pajala to Muoniovaara is twelve Swedish miles. There are
three stations on the way — Kaunisvaara, Killangi, and Par-
kajoki — the distance between each two being about three railes.
The winter road raakes a short cut across forests and swaraps,
and there is no highway. Noav and then we raet a queer-look-
jng conveyance used to carry hay, a sled very rauch like a
crate, with men dressed in reindeer skins. The horses seemed
about as lazy as the raen, and went as slowly as they possibly
could, using their own intelligence to get over the difficulties
of the way. I had to awaken several of these men to make
room for me to pass. The weather had now become charm
ing, and the thermometer remained all day at or within a frac
tion of 13° below freezing.
At Kaunisvaara — which sraall haralet is situated about half-
Avay between the Torne and the Muonio — we waited for two
hours. All the horses were either in the woods drawing tim
ber, or in the fields taking in loads of hay, which had been
stored at a distance. The people were busy hauling it to their
farras, for in suramer very little transportation takes place.
Our route was through a forest of fine fir-trees till we came to
Arkavaara, on the banks of the Muonio. The OAvner of the
place and his wife were Swedes. "You had better stay for
the night," they said, " and go on to-morrow." The invitation
seemed so honest that I accepted it. A substantial dinner, an
excellent bed, and a hearty welcorae were given to rae. On
the next day, when I raentioned paying, I was at once stopped,
and Avas told that the invitation to stay was to enjoy the pleas
ure of ray company. Often at these farms are inns, and one
never knows exactly what to do ; but it is safe to offer pay
ment. The road lay over the frozen Muonio, and, with the
exception of myself, the travel was done entirely with rein
deer ; as there was a great deal of traffic, the track was very
good for a horse. The Finns at home were dressed in home-
VOL. II. F

66 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
spun and woven clothing, and only used the Lapp dress when
travelling. It was late when I reached Muonionalusta, but the lights
twinkled through the windows, shoAving that the people of the
hamlet were not asleep. The inmates of one of the houses
came out and bade us welcome. There was quite a company
of people inside. On our arrival raore logs were thrown into
the open fireplace, and roora was made for us to warm our
selves, for the night was very cold. The men and women
were smoking, and having a little chat before going to bed.
This farm belonged to Lars Johanson. The people seemed
happy when they heard I was to spend the night Avith them.
The two daughters, Lovisa and Sophia, immediately went to
work, and, Avhile we were chatting, prepared a raeal of rein
deer meat for me ; coffee was roasted, and the good farmer
Abraham brought in another armful of firewood. The peo
ple here consume a vast amount of fuel. None of the resi
dents were bashful, and numerous questions were asked of Elsa
Karolina concerning me. When bedtime came the neighbors
left, and immediately preparations for sleep took place. The
sofa-bed was opened, a sliding-drawer was pulled out, the hay
was shaken up afresh, and reindeer and sheep skins were put
over it for me ; other skins were spread on the floor as beds
for the faraily. Then all took off their shoes and stockings,
and hung them on a cross-pole, near the ceiling, by the fire
place. Father and son now bade us good-bye, and left. Elsa
Karolina and one of the daughters slept together, while the
eldest daughter slept near me, bundling with her sweetheart,
this being the lovers' day.
I had had only one unpleasant adventure since leaving Stock
holm ; but ono, indeed, since my arriA^al in Scandinavia. Com
ing before a fine-looking house, Avell painted, and thus showing
at once that it belonged to a family of more than ordinary re
finement, my driver alighted, and said that we raust go in, as it
was the house of his mother-in-laAv. I had hardly entered be
fore an old lady made her appearance, and Avclcomed me in
the kindest raanner. Then ray little girl driver of the sum
mer before came in, and I gave her a gold ring, showing her

J-V UNPLEASANT RECEPTION. 67
the silver one she had given me. The good hostess invited
rae to dinner, and to spend the night. Four sperm candles
Avere lighted ; and Avhen I remonstrated against such a waste,
she said there could not be too much light to see a man from
America. In the mean time my companion had disappeared,
and Avhen he came back he was tipsy, to my great annoy
ance. He gave as an excuse that he had caught cold, and had
a great pain in his head. The dinner was served, and I had
hardly commenced when the door opened, and the two daugh
ters raade their appearance ; one gave such a look at my hum
ble luggage in the corner of the room that I saw at once I was
not welcome. I said " Good day ;" she hardly deigned to an
swer, and glanced at her brother-in-laAv in a manner which show
ed that he was not in her good graces. She unmuffled herself,
seeming raore and more angry, went into the next room, said
a few hasty words there which I could not understand, came
back through the room, slamming the door, returned with a
pillow, leaving the door wide open, and rushed into the apart
ment in an angry raood. The fork dropped frora ray hand as
she said " This is not the station-house." " I know it, mad
am," I replied ; " I came here to see a little friend ; your
brother-in-law brought me here, and your raother invited rae
to stay." " You can sleep but one night here ; there is no
room for you." I said nothing, but got up from the table and
ordered the horse to be made ready. The mother and other
daughter were mute, and seeraed afraid. Then she said, "Will
you not stay here for the night, and go to-raorrow ?" " No,"
said I. I thanked the raother, and gave to the servant a piece
of raoney which was raore than I would have paid at a hotel
for my dinner : I was glad to go back to my friends. The
next day, probably feeling the impropriety of her reception,
the daughter came and excused herself, and said she would be
glad to see me. Such was the end of that unpleasant adven
ture, which, no doubt, was occasioned by her dislike for her
brother-in-law, and the state of drunkenness in which she saw
him : she thought perhaps that I had made him so.
Muoniovaara was only a short distance, and I was received
by my old friends, the family of Herr F  , with a hearty
r 2

68 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
welcome. The father had gone to Haparanda, to attend the
fair at TorneS,, and they seemed quite astonished when they
heard I had not met him on the way ; but I was well received
by his kind-hearted wife, his two amiable daughters, and his
two sons, one of whom was noAv on a visit from Karesuando,
where he resided, being the lansman of the district. They
said that, though their father was not at home, they would try
to raake rae have a good tirae. They succeeded splendidly.
The last sheep was killed, and I could see by that and sundry
other preparations in the kitchen that these hospitable people
intended that I should live on the fat of the land.

LAPP WINTER DRESS. 69

CHAPTER VI.
Winter Scene at Muoniovaara. — Laplanders. — Lapp Winter Costume. — Lapp
Shoes. — Head-dress. — Gloves. — Learning how to drive Reindeer. — The differ
ent Lapp Sleighs. — Reindeer Harness. — Difficulty of balancing One's Self in a
Lapp Sleigh. — How to drive Down-hill. — How Reindeer are taken Care of. — My
first Drive. — Great Speed. — Upset going Down-hill. — Departure for a Laplander's
Camp. — A not very Graceful Start. — My Reindeer runs away without Me. — A
Reindeer's Gait. — The Noise they make. — A Laplander's Kata in Winter. —
Reception. — Preparing the Evening Meal. — A Night with the Lapps. — ¦ Cold
Weather. — Killing a Reindeer. — Hardships of the Laplanders. — Training Rein
deer. — Their Speed. — Departure from Muoniovaara.
Muoniovaara now presented a very different aspect from
that of suraraer. The yard was crowded with queer-shaped
Lapp sledges, to which were attached magnificent reindeer, and
Laplanders, in their quaint winter garments, were talking to
each other. How comfortable was their dress : no clothing
is warmer than reindeer skin, and it is well adapted to the cli
mate. It is convenient either when the wearers are riding in
their sleighs, travelling on snow-shoes, or breasting the violent
wind-storms which they encounter in their wanderings. Ex
perience has taught the Lapps that it is very important that
nothing they wear should impede the free circulation of the
blood, which maintains the animal heat of the body.
WINTEE COSTUME.
The winter kapta is raade of reindeer skin with the hair
attached ; it is loose, reaching below the knee, with a narrow
aperture for the head to pass through, and fitting so closely
around the neck that cold air and snow cannot enter. The
sleeves also are loose, but at the Avrist the skin is without hair,
or furnished with a cloth band. Under the kapta they Avear
one or two very thick woollen under-garraents, and often over

70

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

LAPP WINTER OOSTCME.

these a A^est made of soft reindeer skin. In very cold weather
another warm kapta is AA'orn beneath the outer one, but with
the hair inside. The breeches are made of skin from the legs
of the reindeer, Avhich is considered the Avarmest part; these
arc AVorn over thick close-fitting Avoollen draAVcrs, and are fast-

SHOES, MITTENS, AND HEAD-DRESS OF THE LAPPS 71
ened around the waist by a string, and, if short, are tied above
the knees. Near the ankles the hair is reraoved, and the leath
er is raade very soft, so that it may go inside the shoe. Noth
ing can be better adapted to keep the feet warm than the Lap
lander's shoes, made of skin, soft and pliable, taken from near
the hoof. They are sharp-pointed and graceful, and, as they
are not made fast, convenient for snow-shoes. Some are lined
at the seams Avith red fiannel or cloth ; the upper part, which
fits above the ankles, is without hair. They are raade large
enough to allow two pairs of the thickest horae-knitted stock
ings and the Lapp grass to be worn without pinching the feet.
Sometimes their socks are raade of cows' or goats' hair ; these
are Avarmer than those of wool, but are not strong. Great care
is taken that neither stockings nor grass are damp. The foot
must be completely wrapped with grass to the ankle ; the shoe
is then put on, the lower part of the legging is put inside, and
a long band attached to the shoe is wound round and round,
preventing the entrance of either air or snow. These shoes
can be used only in cold dry weather. I do not remember a
single instance during that winter when I suffered frora cold
feet, but I always had one of the natives arrange and prepare
the shoes, and put them on for rae. In the spring, when the
snow becomes wet, hairless boots well greased are worn in
stead, both by Finlanders and Lapps.
The head-dress of the Laplanders varies according to the
district : at Muoniovaara it is square at the top ; the upper
part is either blue or red, and is filled with eider-down, while
the thick wide border, often raade of otter-skin, can be turned
up in frosty weather; the down, which is several inches thick,
was too warm for me. A raask of fur is put over the face
for protection, but this covering is used only in very windy
weather. Their raittens are of the warraest description, raade
from the skin near the hoof ; they are very loose, with room
for a thick pair of woollen ones inside ; and as they lap over
the lower end of the sleeve of the kapta with these, I never
suffered from cold hands that winter.
The very appearance of the yard at the farm showed that I
was in Lapland. The conveyances are peculiar: the Jcerres—

72 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
used either to carry people or merchandise, over which is a
skin fastened with strings — is very much the shape of an
open boat, and is made of narrow fir planks, very strongly
ribbed inside, about seven feet long, two and a half at ,the
broadest part, varying but little in width. The keel is very
strong, about four inches wide, but varies much in thickness,
as they wear out in time by constant rubbing. The higher
they are the quicker one can travel; as in case snow is well
packed or crusted the sides hardly touch it, and the keel then
acts like a runner under a skate. It was absolutely necessary
that I should learn to drive reindeer, and how to remain in
those little Lapp sledges. Pulkas (in Norwegian, a^'a), built
for fast travelling, have keels about two and a half inches
thick. The higher these are the more difficult it is to learn
how to balance one's self, and consequently not to upset.
The pulkas are used also to pack goods. There are regular
posting pulkas, which are raore neatly finished, the forward
part being decked for about a third of the length, forming
a sort of box with a trap opening, the top covered Avith seal
skin. Their shape is quite graceful, the keel high, and they
are made for rapid locomotion. The back is often cushioned,
and ornamented with copper buttons. All have on the for-
Avard part a strong leather ring, to Avhich the trace is fastened.
They are ribbed inside very strongly, and are capable of with
standing any amount of bumping and knocking. Others, called
lakkek — larger, but of the same form — were covered above
like the deck of a vessel, and answered for trunks ; one had
the top covered with seal-skin, aud contained the clothing, jew
ellery, Bible, hymn-books, handkerchiefs, and a great part of
the wearing apparel of the family, or coffee, sugar, flour, and
other provisions which required to be aa'cII protected. Each
is draAvn by one reindeer, and carries a single person. The
harness is very simple, the coramon one consisting of a collar
around the neck, at the lower part of which a single strong
twisted or leather trace is fastened, to which the conveyance
is attached. No bit is used, and the rein is made of strong
plaited leather straps, and fastened to the base of the horns.
There are also fancy harnesses, ornamented by bright belts.

DRIVING IN LAPP SLEIGHS. 73
The harnessing must always be done with very great care, for
the reindeer is easily scared, and often makes sudden springs
at slight noises.
The rider seats himself, holding the rein twisted around the
right hand. The line must not be held tightly, and the mid
dle part should not quite touch the snow, for it is dangerous
should the rein get under the sleigh ; in this case the driver's
arms may become entangled, and he be dragged some distance
before he can loosen the cord around his hands. A novice,
therefore, must be constantly on the watch. If you want the
reindeer to stop, the rein is thrown to the left ; if you Avish
to go fast, then to the right ; as for myself, I have never been
able to make a deer go slow — they never walk unless very
tired. You must make up your mind to be upset a great
many times before you learn to drive reindeer.
The most difficult and dangerous time in driving is Avhen
descending steep hills, as the speed of the sleigh is greater
than that of the reindeer. The Lapps sit astride with their
knees bent, using their feet as rudder and drag. To a
novice this practice is very dangerous, and might lead to his
breaking his legs. They never Avould allow rae to try to come
down in this raanner, and even they, with their constant prac
tice, sometimes rupture theraselves from this cause. In going
down I used a short stick, the point of which I would force
into the snow with all my raight, this acting as a drag. But
sometimes the hills and raountains are too steep even for the
Lapps. In that case the reindeer is tied behind the convey
ance ; they cannot bear to be pulled by the horns, and conse
quently make strong efforts to free themselves, and in so do
ing greatly lessen the speed. It is also very difficult to learn
how to balance one's self, so as to keep the equilibrium of the
pulka and prevent upsetting ; the greater the speed the more
difficult is the task. For example, when a deer, after swiftly
going down a hill, turns suddenly in a sharp curve, the rider
must bend to the other side, or he will be overturned. I could
not have found a better place than Muoniovaara in which to
learn to drive reindeer. These animals are not housed like
horses. Those belonging to Herr F  were in the woods.

74 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
and when needed the servants had to go after them ; neither
are they fed, for they have to find their own food. In the
early raorning, that I raight take ray first lesson, two raen with
lassos started for the forest on snow-shoes after the reindeer;
for those broken to the harness are sent to feed with the rest
of the herd, often reraaining days and weeks before they are
again required. The herd had been left at a distance of about
six miles frora the farra. The men returned with five superb
strong animals having magnificent horns.
THE FERST DEIVE.
The harnesses used were fancy ones of brilliant colors. Herr
Gustaf, the son, was to accompany me and be my teacher.
After being seated I was shown how to twist the rein around
ray hand and wrist. When I remonstrated, I was told I
must not hold it otherwise, because, if I should upset, the an
imal could not run away without me : a cheerful prospect, I
thought ! Gustaf was to lead ; I was to come next, and the
man-servant was to follow to keep watch over me. The rein
deer were brought to the side of the dwelling-house, near a
hill that led down to the river. The young ladies did not
join the party, but as we were ready to start I saw them peep
ing between the curtains ; their roguish eyes were full of fun,
for they knew what Avould happen, and I did not. The sig
nal given, ray leader threw himself into his pulka, and off his
reindeer started. Mine followed at the same speedy rate ;
my sledge swung to and fro, and I had gone but a feAv yards
when I was thrown out, and rolled over and over till the
creature stopped. This was the first upsetting but not the
last. When I got up and looked for Gustaf he was far ahead,
but the man behind was at hand to help me. " No one who
had never driven a reindeer could come doAvn that hill at full
speed without upsetting," said he, as he tried to console me
for the mishap. It seemed to me railway speed, though I was
told that ray aniraal Avas quite a slow one, and one of the
raost tractable. We had hardly made another start when I
was out of the sleigh again. At the foot of the hill Gustaf
was Avaiting, and said it was a splendid place in which to learn

A VERY BAD START. 75
to drive a deer. I did not then see it in that light ; but he
was right, on the principle that when you go to sea for the
first time it is better to encounter a storm at once, and then
you will not be sea-sick afterwards. After reaching the river
we drove on a level surface, over a well-furrowed track, raade
by those Avho had crossed to the other side. The first reindeer
went slowly, and I followed in its wake, upsetting only four
times in a ten minutes' ride. On our return I was upset a few
times more, but was perfectly satisfied with ray first lesson
in the art of reindeer driving — especially as I had no bones
broken. The animals were then taken back to their pasture-
grounds. Next morning a man started after some of the fastest deer
owned by my host. After an absence of about four hours
he returned with three magnificent ones, with great spread of
horns, and faster than the fastest horse. We were going to
make a visit to an encampment of Laplanders about twenty-
five miles distant. Herr Gustaf wore his finest dress, the robe
being almost pure white, and his gloves and shoes AA'cre of the
same color. When ready to start, the whole family came out
to say good-bye, and to see us off. It was just the kind of
weather that raakes reindeer lively — 30° below zero, with not
a breath of wind.
While some one held my deer I got into the pulka; the
line was handed to rae, and I twisted it around ray wrist, when
immediatel}', and before Gustaf was ready, his animal started :
he had just time to throw himself across his sleigh. This sud
den start was the signal for a wild hurried stampede, each rein
deer trying to outrun the other. We went at great speed.
Gustaf succeeded in stopping his runaway, but not before
turabling over ; this barred the way of mine, which made a
sharp turn to the right, keeping up his SAvift gait. I came
near a post, and, if ray sledge had struck against it, I should
have been thrown out, and probably badly hurt. Happily I
escaped this danger, but was shot out of my sleigh heels over
head, and rolled over and over till the rein slipped off my
wrist, and the animal started as if a fire had been lighted at
his heels. I got up, rubbed the snow from my face and out

76 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
of ray raouth, and looked for ray courser, but he was out of
sight, and I saw Gustaf driving as fast as he could after him.
Behind was the servant, who also had been upset.
When the deer are fresh frora the woods the starting is
always the raost difficult ; when they have not been used for
Aveeks, and when the weather is cold, they are wild and unruly.
Gustaf returned with the animal, which he had caught after a
mile's chase. I could now understand why the thong must not
slip from one's hand. We were ^U mortified, for we wished
to have started in grand style. The next time Gustaf rolled
the cord around my wrist himself, for he did not want to run
after the reindeer a second time. "Now," said he, "the ani
mal cannot run away without j'ou, and when he sees that you
are out he will stop." I found by experience that, being of
light weight, I was often rolled over and over for some time
before they came to a stop.
The track over which Ave travelled was furrowed deeply by
pulkas, and this helped to steady ours. There had evidently
been a great deal of travel over it, and we went at times at the
rate of fifteen miles an hour. Before we came to the declivity
of a hill the animals always quickened their paces, and, by the
tirae we came to the descent, the speed was so great that ev
erything passed before my eyes as quickly as if I were going
by railway at the rate of twenty or thirty miles an hour, and
the reindeer Avith their trotting pace sent the granulated snow
into our faces. While going fast the animal invariably carries
the neck forward. I could hear all the time a sound as if tAvo
pieces of wood were knocking against each other; this was
produced by the feet. Every time the hoof touched the snow
it spread open, and as it was raised the tAvo sides were brought
together again. Going down hill, the pace was so rapid that
the animals' feet seemed hardly to touch the snowy ground ;
they knew that if they did not go fast enough the pulka Avould
strike against their legs.
At first, every time 1 reached the base of a hill, or when we
had to go round a sharp curve, I Avas sure to upset ;• but finally
I understood Avhat to do ; and Avhcn my sleigh Avas on the point
of upsetting I managed to bend my body half out, and thus

A LAPP ENCAMPMENT.

77

avoided being throAvn. This constant Avatching made the
drive very exciting. We drove over some little lakes, and
through forests of fir, pine, and birch ; but in these our leader
alighted, and led his reindeer, for fear that we should knock
against the trees, as I Avas not an expert.

rNTEEIOP. OF A Kata in winter.

We followed a well-furrowed track, each of us leading our
animal ; we soon heard the barking of dogs announcing our
approach to a Lapp encampment, and found ourselves before
a k§,ta (tent). The people were friends of Herr Gustaf, and
we were heartily Avelcomed. They could talk Lappish, Fin
nish, Swedish, and Norwegian. Several woraen were inside
the k§,ta, seated on skins, and all were, as usual, busy. Lapp
woraen are very industrious ; upon them devolves the labor of
making the clothing for the family. One was weaving bands
of bright colors, another was giving the final touches to a gar
ment, while a third finished a pair of shoes : they are very

78 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
expert, also, in embroidering cloth or leather. The thread
they use is made of the sinews of the forelegs of the rein
deer. The reception is always formal. The left side of the tent
was given to us as guests, while the faraily and the dogs were
huddled together on skins. After the usual salutation, the
Lapps gradually became sociable. A vessel full of snow was
put over the fire, and, when it had melted, the water was put
into the coffee-pot, then the coffee was ground and boiled, a
piece of dry fish-skin being used to clarify it. Silver spoons,
of a rounded shape and Avith twisted handles, were furnished
to the guests. After partaking of their kind hospitality we
left thera, as we intended to stay with another family, great
friends of Gustaf, who were in much better circumstances, and
whose encampment was only a short distance off. It was
now impossible to drive on account of the trees and the deep
holes made in the snow by the reindeer, so we walked in front
of our aniraals, now and then having to pull hard to make
them follow. We soon discerned through the trees a Lapp
ki,ta, the place where we intended to stay. The father of
the family was a well-to-do Laplander, possessing over a thou
sand reindeer.
The furious barking of half a dozen dogs Avarned the in
mates of the tent of our coming. A short, thick-set, middle-
aged, blue-eyed man came out, ordered the dogs to keep quiet,
and, recognizing Gustaf, bade us enter. The door leading into
the tent was pushed aside, and we found ourselves in the raidst
of a large family. The left side of the tent was again given
to us, nice bear -skins being first laid OA^er tAvigs of young
birch- trees, which were used as mattresses. Several of the
family had blue eyes, and the skin of the protected parts of
the body Avas very white ; their faces were quite red, owing
to exposure to the cold winds and their open-air life, remind
ing me rauch of a sailor's complexion. As usual, coffee was at
once raade. We were hardly seated when a pinch of snuff
was offered to us : this is etiquette Avith them.
The encarapment Avas in a Avood, and the tent was made of
coarse heavy vadmal, and about twelve feet in diameter at the

A LAPP ENCAMPMENT. 79
base. There was a blazing fire in the centre, the smoke escap
ing by an aperture above. Two kettles filled with meat were
boiling, for they were preparing the evening raeal ; and the
tent was so crowded that I wondered how we should all be
able to sleep comfortably. Numerous pulkas and kerres were
scattered around, snow-shoes were either lying on the ground
or standing upright against the trees. Harnesses were hang
ing here and there, and quarters and pieces of frozen reindeer
meat were suspended from the branches. A kind of rack
had been built about six feet from the ground, where frozen
meat was piled. There was also a store of smoked meat and
tongues, buckets full of frozen railk — for some of the deer are
milked until Christmas, as was stated by the host hiraself —
and bladders of this congealed milk or blood, and reindeer feet.
The skins of animals recently killed were drying, stretched on
frames so that they could not shrink. Saddles, empty pails,
kettles, iron pots, wooden vessels, and garments were scattered
about. THE REPAST.
After the meat was cooked it was put on a wooden platter,
and the father, as is the custom, divided it into portions for
each meraber of the family. The fattest parts are considered
the best, and I noticed that these were set aside for us. Then
we began our raeal, using our fingers as forks.
The fire was kept blazing, for it was 40° below zero ; and,
besides, we wanted the light. While eating, many questions
were asked: after our meal both raen and women smoked
their pipes, and during this time I had to go through a regu
lar catechism of questions on religion, which reminded me of
a Sunday-school. They wanted especially to know if I be
lieved in the Trinity. After a long chat, £he night being far
advanced, the time to sleep had come ; then, singing hyrans in
praise of God, they dressed theraselves for the night, putting
over their garments a long reindeer gown, extending below
the feet — almost a bag. No matter how severe the weather
may be, one does not feel cold in such a garb.
Lapps rarely remove their clothing during the winter, and
generally only with the change of seasons. When they go to

80 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
church they often put the new dress over the old one. Of
course vermin swarm in these fur costumes; when they be
come unendurable, the custom is to expose the garraents to
the air when the teraperature is thirty or forty degrees below
zero, so that all noxious things are destroyed. In suramer
this effectual remedy cannot be applied ; but the Laplanders
who are more cleanly wear woollen under -garments, which
they can wash. Bathing is, of course, irapracticable in winter,
and not extensively. practised even in suramer.
Several skins were spread as a mattress for us, and others
given for coverings. The fire had gone out, and we were in
complete darkness ; the air was perfectly still, and I could hear
from time to time the booming sound of the cracking of the
ice on the surrounding streams. A little later I thrust my
head now and then over my furs ; I could see the blue sky
and the bright stars. All was as still as death, for there was
not a breath of wind to stir the branches of the surrounding
trees, and the reindeer were at a distance. The dogs awoke
me several times, for they would try to get under our cover
ings. As the people were afraid of wolves, some remained
with the reindeer the whole of the night. When Ave aAvoke
my thermometer marked 37° below zero ; nevertheless, I had
rested very comfortably. Immediately after our awaking
one of the servant-girls was set to raake bread Avithout yeast,
a small loaf, prepared specially in our honor, being baked in
charcoal. Inside the tent and all around it on the ground
were small boxes, packages, and skins, to prevent the wind
frotn blowing in ; y6ung branches of birch-trees were piled up
several inches thick, upon which skins were spread, and upon
which the family ate and slept.
The people wanted me to see the killing of a reindeer.
In the morning a man went into the Avood and returned with
a deer he had lassoed. The animal, by a twist of the horns,
was laid on his back, and reraained quiet in that position;
then a sharp narrow knife, somewhat of the shape of a sti
letto, was thrust deeply between the forelegs till it pierced
the heart, and was left there. The poor creature rose, turned
round once or twice, then tottered, and fell dead. The blood

CHARACTERISTICS UF LAPP DOGS, 81
Avas removed from the cavity of the chest, Avhere it had ac
cumulated, and put into a bladder, and the intestines were
carefully cleaned for food ; the animal was skinned, the parts
between the eyes, over the forehead, and on the lower legs to
the hoof were cut separately — these being, as I have said, con
sidered the best for gloves and shoes ; the hide was stretched
over a frame to dry.
The Laplanders are very fond of dried powdered blood,
Avhich is cooked in a kind of porridge mixed Avith flour, or
diluted with warm water and made into a pancake. The
meat is cut in large pieces, andiput'over a rack to freeze.
Bladders are always preserved, as are also the sinews, which
are used as thread ; the horns and hoofs are kept for sale, to
be manufactured into glue.
After the raorning meal every man and woraan, except the
host and hostess, put on their snow-shoes, Avhich I noticed were
rauch shorter than mine. They then started into the forest
to look after the reindeer and relieve the night-watch. This
family had Iavo servant-maids, who were not paid in cash, but
at the rate of three reindeer a year. The average pay of a
man-servant in this district is fiA^e or six deer.
Each dog followed his master or raistress. These dogs are
the useful friends of the Laplanders; in order to keep them
liardy, strong, and healthy, they are treated roughly, never
overfed, and are not allowed to rest till their owner does; in
deed, they often seem to get only the food they can steal.
Every man, woman, grown child, and inaid-servant has his or
her own dogs, which obey and listen only to the voice of
their owners. They are exceedingly brave, and not afraid of
wolves and bears, which they attack without fear, but with
great cunning, taking care not to be bitten by them, and choos
ing their time and place to bite.
The Lapp dogs soraewhat resemble the Pomeranian breed ;
they are not large, and are covered with long thick hair.
Sorae look very much like small bears, and I have seen a few
with the sarae dark-brown color, and without tails. These are
said to belong to a peculiar variety, and to have corae from
ancestors whose tails at first Avere always cut off. It is Avon-
VOL. II. G

82 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
derful to see how these dogs can keep a flock of reindeer to
gether; occasionally, for sorae unknown reason, a panic seizes
a herd, and it takes all their cunning and a great deal of run
ning to prevent the deer frora scattering in all directions.
Our friends were rauch afraid of the wolves, and were con
stantly on the watch at night over their deer. In some years
the Avild beasts are exceedingly nuraerous. Reindeer bulls
often defend themselves with success against such enemies;
but when a pack of wolves rushes into the midst of a herd
the latter are scattered in all directions, and then the owners
have to go long distances to bring the herd together again,
often losing great numbers. The wolf and the jarf (glutton)
are the greatest enemies of the reindeer, and the Laplanders
have to be constantly on the hunt for these wary foes. When
the snow is on the ground, and especially when soft and newly
fallen, they pursue the wolves on snow-shoes, easily overtake
and spear them, or kill thera with clubs; the wolves cannot
escape when the snow is deep.
The life of a Lapp is oue of constant vigilance ; young and
old are continually on the lookout, and walk with their dogs
around the herd. If the wolves are not hungry they will not
dare to come near, but if in want of food they will attack a
herd in spite of all precautions. Often the deer detect by
their sense of smell the approach of their enemies ; in that
case the herd moves away. The Laplanders then know what
to expect, and with their dogs pursue the wolves, keeping the
deer together at the same time.
The process of lassoing reindeer is interesting; sometimes
the lasso is thrown thirty or forty feet, and when the animal
is strong the pursuer is often thrown on the ground ; but as
the aniraal runs the rope draws tighter and tighter, and the
deer falls as it gets raore entangled in the coils.
The snow-shoes of the Laplander of these regions Avere rauch
shorter than those of the Finlanders — those for an adult being
about six feet long ; very long ones would be clumsy in wood
ed or mountainous districts; they Avere usually four or five
inches wide, and about half an inch thick. Deer-skin, or, in
the spring, seal-skin is sometimes used for shoes Avhen the snow

TRAINING REINDEER TO DRAW OR CARRY. ,s;j
becomes soft; the latter does not stick to the skin. I Avas
told that a Laplander, if the suoav is iu good condition, can
travel one hundred and fifty railes in a day of eighteen hours ;
if the country is only slightly undulating, they can soraetimes
go fifteen miles an hour, and even more.
The process of teaching a reindeer to draw a sleigh or carry
burdens is tedious and difficult; and, even after being well
trained, the wild nature of the timid and restless animal shows
itself frequently. The training commences at about the age
of three years, and is not completed before the fifth ; they are
good for work till they are fifteen or sixteen years old. A
daily lesson is given to make them know their master, and to
accustom them to the lasso, of which they are at first afraid.
They are given salt and angelica, and are subjected to no ill
treatment Avlien under training. Two raen carae into camp
Avith a young reindeer, and soon afterwards the work of teach
ing hira to draw a sleigh began. A long very strong leather
rein was attached to the base of liis horns, and the rest of the
harness Avas carefully attended to ; the trace attached to the
sleigh Avas several yards in length, the trainer himself being
at quite a distance, thus placing the animal and the sleigh far
apart. As soon as the reindeer was urged forward he plunged
Avildly and kicked, and it required all the strength of the man
to hold him. After repeated rests for the animal and driver
the lesson was recommenced, and continued till the man was
utterly exhausted. To an unpractised eye most reindeer look
alike, but the Laplander knows every one of his flock.
It Avas with sincere regret that I parted from Herr F  's
family, and from Muoniovaara ; their raany acts of kindness
to me, a perfect stranger, will never be forgotten. The young
ladies and their two brothers accompanied me for some dis
tance on the river : the forraer had dressed themselves in the
costume of tho Laplanders, and drove their pet reindeer. Fi
nally the time for separating came, and beyond the icy river
we bade each other good-bye. "Come again, and you will
always be welcome. Do not fail," said the lansman, " to corae
back to Karesuando for P§,sk (Easter), for you will see a great
number of Laplanders." „

84 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER YII.
Friendly Feelings between Finns and Lapps. — Towards Karesuando. — Kalkesuaan-
to. — A Finnish Lansman. — A Blunder. — In Search of a Rich Laplander. — An Ugly
Tract. — Reindeer Diggings. — A Useless Drive. — Discovering a Reindeer Herd.
— Coming to an Encampment.^On Forbidden Ground. — A Strange Landscape. —
Every Reindeer in a Hole. — Karesuando. — A Cold Place. — Towns. — Churches in
Lapland. — Lapps at Church. — Costumes. — Lapland Girls. — An Old Lapp. — A
Lapp School. — Religious Examination. — Torne Lappmark. — Winter the Travel
ling Season. — Strength of Reindeer.
This part of the arctic region, especially on the coast, is in
habited by Finlanders, Lapps, and Norwegians ; in many dis
tricts there is a mixed type, as they have intermarried much.
Russian Lapland is here Avedged in between the frontiei-s of
Norway and SAveden; The best feeling prevails among those
peoples. The Laplanders and Finns are very friendly, the
former often visiting with their families, and staying, both in
health and sickness, at the farms. In return for their kindness
the Lapps will, during the summer months, take the reindeer
of the farmers with their own to the mountains to pasture;
or, AA'hile staying with them, will either make their shoes and
gloves, of give them frozen reindeer meat. All Swedish, Nor-
Avegian, or Finnish farmers in Lapland must OAvn reindeer, as
they require a certain number for winter use ; but these thrive
only Avhen kept under the same conditions as those of the
Lapps— that is, they must have the necessary freedom to roam,
Avithout which they are sure to degenerate, and becorae useless.
The males are generally used for draught. Along the coast
of Bothnia, north of LuleS, I met some draAvine sleisrhs with
pretty heavy loads ; and others, farther north, dragging tAvo or
three trunks of pine or fir trees ; I saAV several eating bread
and hay, but their principal food must be the lichen. When
I was travelling iu summer I noticed that in the Finnish for-

A RICH LAPLANDER. 85
ests there are magnificent lichens ; the Swedish and NorAvc-
gian Laplanders ahvays try to get their reindeer across to these
in winter, to find good pasture, and the chances are they will
not be detected in those uninhabited districts. The Lapland
ers who belong to Finland do not complain of them, for they,
in their turn, often smuggle articles to Norway by sea, through
their Swedish or Norwegian friends ; but in both cases care
raust be taken not to be found out by the authorities. The
punishraent is a fine, to be paid in reindeer to the lansman ;
for a second offence the fine is greater; but I have never
known of a herd being confiscated, though this could be done
according to the law.
The journey on the Muonio as far as Karesuando presented
nothing striking. At the station of Kalkesuaanto we stopped
for the night; the roora for travellers was very sraall, and
Elsa and the daughter of the house slept on skins on the floor
near my bed. Living at this place, to my surprise, was com
paratively dear. About two miles from Kalkesuaanto was a
comfortable farm, belonging to a skogvaktare (keeper of for
est) called John Puranen, and a good stopping-place, for the
wife was a Norwegian, and an excellent house-keeper. She
and her husband, a servant-maid, and a man-servant composed
the family ; for a wonder, the couple had no children. My ob
ject in remaining at the farra was to go araong the Lapps
to see a Laplander naraed Pehr Wassara, who was one of the
richest in herds in Sweden — he owned over 3000 reindeer;
my friends at Muoniovaara had sent rae to hira, and I was to
inquire Avhere he was. The Finnish lansraan, an elderly raan,
had just arrived, and stopped here. We were acquainted, for
we had dined together at Muoniovaara. As we were chatting,
while drinking a cup of coffee I said to the wife, "By-the-
way, I want to go and see Pehr Wassara, for I hear he is some
where in the neighborhood." "Where?" said the old lans
man, inquisitively. Without thinking, I answered, " I hear
that he is about a mile and a half from here." I saw at once,
by the sober faces of the family, that I had, unfortunately,
aroused the worthy officer's suspicions. Pehr Wassara Avas
trespassing on forbidden ground, and he had been caught here

86

TUE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

several times before; but to all the lansman's inquiries about
the offender the people gave an evasive answer, that they did
not know exactly — for Pehr was a good friend of the farmer,
and both reaped the advantage. I saw that I had raade a
blunder, and guessed at once that Pehr was probably a sraug-
gler in the forests of Finland. I had innocently made that
inquiry before an officer who was looking after him or any
other trespasser.

^ ^WJJT^ (lelHi ¦¦"^t'V — ,**-.

RKINPEER DIOQINO IN TUB ENOW.

Early the following day, with the raercury at 10° beloAv
zero, I Avas driving with a guide, on ray Avay, as I supposed, to
the encampment of Pehr Wassara, Avhen unexpectedly the lans
man joined us. Entering a forest after a long drive, we found
ourselves suddenly in the midst of a number of holes several
feet deep, dug by reindeer. The track of the furroAvs of the
other sleigh Avas soon lost, and the route becanie abominable.
Down into the depths aa'c Avould go — up again — then on one
side, then on the other. From the top of a mound Ave were
pitched into a hole, bumping against a tree, the boughs or

A HERD OF TRESPASSERS. 87
branches often striking against our faces ; to avoid these we
had to keep ourselves fiat in the sleighs, in constant danger oi
being upset. Several thousand reindeer had evidently been
here, and we were completely lost in their excavations. Wher
ever Ave turned we could not discover either fresh reindeer
tracks or furrows of sleighs to lead us to an encampment. I
began to suspect that our guide did not want us to see Pehr
Wassara or any other smuggler: the old lansman was appar
ently of the same opinion, for he ordered him to go in a cer
tain direction. We succeeded in getting out of the honey
combed track, and into a clean smooth region. As we en
tered another wood we came suddenly upon a large herd of
reindeer, which apparently had just halted. I could not help
seeing, by the look of despair of our guide, that the discovery
Avas not agreeable to him. The lansman had fallen upon tres
passers ; for Avhen we saw the fresh furrows of sleighs and
imprints of snoAV-shoes we knew we had come among one of
Pehr Wassara's herds. The creatures composing it Avere of
all sizes, raany having superb horns. Strange, indeed, was the
appearance of that dark forest with the raultitude of reindeer
under the foliage.
The animals had just been left, and I witnessed an interest
ing sight. The snow in this district was not very deep — not
over four feet. Under that thick cover was buried the rich
moss of which the reindeer is so fond. All except the
younger ones were busy digging, first with one forefoot then
Avith the other ; the holes gradually became larger and larger,
and the bodies of the animals were raore and raore hidden ;
they would not stop till they had reached the moss. Wher
ever I turned my eyes they were seen doing the same work,
for they Avere evidently hungry. The Lapps have to find
places where the snow is not raore than four or five feet
deep, otherAvise the reindeer cannot reach their food. The
number seeraed countless. We followed the tracks of the
snow-shoes, and after awhile found ourselves in the presence
of three Lapp women, who had evidently just arrived. The
Avoraen were quiet and self-possessed ; they knew they had
been caught on forbidden ground, and that if the lansman

88 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
chose he could fine them. My old companion seemed to try
to appear furious, but the women listened to him calmly. I
felt SOIT}', for there was not the usual welcome, nor the invita
tion to spend the night or to partake of coffee — nothing but a
cold reception. The men had evidently taken themselves out
of the Avay of the officer of the law, and left the women to
do the best they could. They said they did not know they
had crossed ^the frontier, and that it was simply a mistake ;
they were ordered to leave the place, and recross the boun
dary. The lansman told thera he was coming again the next
day, and that if they were seen on this side the herd would
be confiscated. Then we left Avith no kind Avords, no invita
tion to come again.
The place of the encampment was well chosen, on a spot
where the Avind had almost entirely bloAvn away the snow.
The tent was not yet put up, but a fire Avas lighted. The
reindeer had just been unharnessed, and numerous kerres,
akja, and lakkek were lying close together, loaded Avith the
frame of the tent and the woollen canvas, with frozen meat,
cooking utensils, Avooden vessels, etc.
On the way back, another strange sight presented itself.
Where had the reindeer gone ? None Avere to be seen. Had
they been taken away ? As I approached the herd I discov
ered that all of thera had dug holes so deep that I could see
only their tails, which SAvayed to and fro. This Avas certainly
a landscape I had never seen before.
It was wonderful how our guide now knew a good track!
We met no more holes and places AA'here reindeer had been
before ; Ave drove over an entirely new path, our little boat-like
sleighs leaving their furrows behind.
This hard day's work, Avith the constant jumping, knocking
against trees, and tumbling into the deep holes of the honey
combed ground, Avas too much for the lansman ; he came back
very tired and quite unwell, and Avas soon after seized with a
high fever, which continued the Aviiole of the foUoAving day.
Farther on I crossed the Palojoki River, Aviiere we had been
in summer, and passed several farms and the hamlet of Kut-
taiiicn, when the spire of the church of Karesuando, the most

THE COLDEST HAMLETS IN SWEDEN. 89
northern one in SAveden, burst upon our sight, Avhile to the
north the bluish birch-clad hills added to the quiet beauty of
the scenery, and the houses came in view.
I was HOAV 280 miles from Haparanda. Soon afterwards I
came to the modest post-station, the humble but best farm of
the hamlet. The seven or eight farms which made the place,
scattered Avide apart, possessed about sixty milch cows (for the
pastures here are very good), six horses, sheep enough to sup
ply the inhabitants Avith avooI, and about 240 reindeer. Now
and then there was seen a hay-stack resting on an elevated
platform, Avhich prevented the snow from covering the bottom
of the stack.
The parsonage was at sorae distance, and easily recognized
by its red buildings. Scattered about were queer-shaped soli
tary houses, belonging to the noraadic or fjeld Laplanders, in
Avhich they kept their garraents, ornaraents, flour, etc. The
station Avas very corafortable, and the location unsurpassed.
The dwelling-house was composed of two large rooms — one in
Avhich the family resided, and the other the stranger's room.
The cow-house was opposite, and built very low, in order to
keep it warm ; the old-fashioned wooden bucket at the well,
Avith its long pole, was entirely surrounded by a thick mass
of ice.
Karesuando is situated in lat. 68° 30', on the banks of the
Muonio River, and 972 feet above the level of the sea ; a little
farther north is Enontekis, at an altitude of 326 feet more.
These hamlets are the coldest places in Sweden where meteor
ological observations have been taken ; the mean temperature
throughout the year at Enontekis is about 4° or 5°; at Karesu
ando, about 6° beloAv freezing-point, the mercury falling some
times as low as 40° and 45° beloAv zero.
Here, as in some other parts of Sweden and Norway, the
cattle are strangely fed. Every farmer keeps as tnany animals
as he can, though the hay crop is often short. The fine hay
is kept for the horses, and the coarser grass for the cows ; but
this marshy grass is so hard to chew that it has to be soaked
in boiling water. Ths reindeer-inoss, an excellent fodder, is
also used extensively ; but it has to be cooked, and is often

9:» THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
mixed with the grass, with the addition of sheep or horse
dung. The cattle here looked far better than in many of the
districts farther south. Occasionally barley ripens, but the
crop is so uncertain that the people seldom plant it. Potatoes
groAV so fast that the tubers are small, all the strength going
into the stem.
At the parsonage the pastor and his Avife asked me to be
their guest; I expressed my thanks, saying that I came to
study the people, and wished to be araong thera, but that I
would come often. I was not alloAved to leave that day be
fore I took dinner with the pastor. He was a quiet, unde
monstrative man, with a benign countenance, and was much
respected by the people, among whom he had lived for a num
ber of years.
All over Swedish and Norwegian Lapland churches are scat
tered, so that the Laplander may easily attend a church, enjoy
the privileges of religion, and partake of the Lord's Supper;
and, Avhen his days are ended, his body is carried thence to
the graveyard. Near the church are schools where the chil
dren are taught, and the clergyman imparts the precepts of
religion. Yittangi, Jukkasjarvi, and Karesuando, in TorneS, Lappmar-
ken, are the three most northern churches of Sweden, around
which is always found a hamlet. There, as in Karesuando,
the Lapps have built many small houses, Avhere they store
the various articles they do not care to take Avitli them. On
Sunday many Lapps attend the church from their different
cucampraents, either on snow-shoes or with reindeer; those
Avho live far aAvay often start the day before — the Finns from
distant villages also join the congregation. The Swedish and
Noi-Avegian Lapps are all Lutherans. Here, also, the men were
seated on one side of the church, and the Avoraen on the other.
When I returned to the farm the Avhole couOTegation fol-
loAvcd me.
At that time there were several young persons avIio had
corae to pass their religious examination before being confirm
ed at Easter (which is here one of tho great festiA'als of the
Church), and that year it was to take place on the Uth of April.

LAPPS IN SUNDAY ATTIRE.

91

They were all dressed in their best clothes, the woraen in a
gown of reindeer skin reaching much below the knees, with
pantelettes aud shoes of the same raaterial. The women wore

--^ :,-*>v.^.i';'-==t>e.,^^'>\^

SORDELE LAl'F GIRLS XT^V BOV.

queer little bonnets of bright colors, made of pieces of avooI
and silk ; some of the belts around the waist Avere ornamented
with silver: they also wore large glass beads around the neck,
and the fingers of many were ornamented Avith odd"- shaped

92 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
silver rings. Their great pride is to have two, three, or four
large bright silk handkerchiefs about the neck, hanging down
behind. The more they have, the raore fashionable they are
considered. The men were dressed very rauch in the same
way, except that they wore square caps and shorter gowns.
One of the characteristics of the Laplanders is that they are
not bashful, though they are not forward. I never met even a
bashful child ; so we all soon became good friends. The men
and Avoraen smoked and snuffed a great deal. The large room
was packed with people, and all were animated.
In our farra-house there was a white-headed Lapp, nearly
eighty years old, who passed all his time, Sundays as well as
week-days, in reading the Bible, especially the Psalms, and
the Prayer-book. He had ceased wandering over the moun
tains, being unable to bear the fatigue. He loved to remain
near the church and the surrounding graveyard, where his
forefathers had been buried. He was now looking beyond
the grave and death, which he knew was near, but which did
not frighten him. That cold icy grave of the north, cov
ered with snoAV a great part of the year, and over which no
flower would ever bloom, had no terrors for hira. "It is,"
he said to rae, " to be my quiet bed, over which the storms
will blow Avithout disturbing me. My spirit will go where
God is, and where the Lord Jesus Christ, in whom I trust,
doth live."
At the solitary farms and little hamlets of Lapland the
sickly are left, and the kind care of the farraers is repaid, as I
have said before, by presents frora Lapps, and by taking care
of their reindeer. In these hamlets, soraetiraes very far from
home, the young people are conflrmed, and finish their relig
ious education. In the church they are baptized, and around
it they are buried. The church to thera is a sacred and be
loved spot ; they repair to it with joyful hearts, and all those
Avho can, at certain times of the year raake it a point to
participate in its religious services. The Laplanders ahvays
come and partake of the Lord's Supper at Pdsk (Easter) be
fore they go with their herds into the mountains for the sum
mer, to be absent several months.

LAPP BETROTHALS AND MARRIAGES 93
At their religious reunions or festivals marriages are often
arranged ; girls are alloAved to raarry at the age of sixteen.
Matches are often determined by parents beforehand, and the
bridegroom must give the father or raother of the bride a cer
tain number of reindeer; but sometimes engagements take
place between lovers Avithout the consent of the old folks.
If the presents given to the parents and relatives of the bride
are thought to be insufficient, I am inforraed they say so with
out scruple. At the betrothal feast the engagement ring is
presented, and frequently a silver spoon. After the Avedding
another feast often folloAvs, with the usual excesses of eating
and drinking. When a child is born a reindeer is given to it;
it is a custom also for the family to give oue to the person
Avilo soonest observes the first teeth. The offspring of these
animals become the child's oavu, and are not counted when
there is a division of the property. The sponsor, too, often
gives a reindeer to the child.
Many of the young Lapp girls I have met in my different
journeys Avere fresh and blooming; but I frequently noticed
hoAV much older they appeared than they really were, in
spite of the good health they all enjoyed, and which insured
for them a ripe old age. Girls of fourteen or fifteen years of
age appeared sometimes to be eighteen and twenty. This
was no doubt due to their laborious and wandering life, and
exposure to the dry cold winds ; their premature develop
ment raight also be attributed to their early and hard Avork.
As they grow older they become very ugly and wrinkled.
The old woraen — with their long uncombed hair hanging over
their shoulders, their unAvashed faces, and the entire absence
of any desire to please — are certainly among the raost hideous
specimens of humanity. Among the younger, I frequently
could not, from the face, distinguish a boy from a girl Avhen
the head-dresses were off.
At this time of the year I saw so many Laplanders to
gether that I could well observe the characteristic type of
their features. With few exceptions they had broad and short
faces, with prominent cheeks ; the chin was very short ; nose
usually flat betAveen the eyes, sharp and retrousse, as shown

94

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

in our engravings from photographs. A number had dark
hair, that of others was blonde; but reddish dark-brown was
comraon. There were few eyes really blue; most were of a
light green and grayish ; some had dark, and two or three had
hazel eyes. Their lips Avere thin ; the skin of their faces Avas
reddened by the cold Avinds, but the protected part of the neck
and body was quite white by contrast. The fact is that the
Lapps have a very white skin, and those who have described
thera as a dark-skinned people have made a mistake.

ASELE LAPP WOMAN — FRONT VIEW.

During ray stay Ave became good friends; I gave them
raany silver rings, and all the Lapp girls and boys said they
would never part with thera. Like the Finns, they Averc fond
of large, round, glass beads, which they wore around their
necks. I had several pressing invitations to come and see
them during the summer. At night they slept among their
friends at the different fai-ms, on deer-skins spread ou the floor.
The following measurements will give a fair idea of the
size of the Karesuando Lapps :

SIZES OF THE LAPLANDERS.

95

AliULT \To.MEN.

ft.

i in,
11
Hi11

i ft.
4 "
4 "
4 "
4 "
4 "
4 "

Hi 15i
8J
10 H

Adult

Men.

5 ft.

0 in.

5 ft. 4| in

5 "

3 "

5 u "i^ it

4 "

10 "

5 " 3 "

5 "

H "

5 "

5 "

1 "

5 " 1 "

5 "

4 "

4 " lOi "

4 "

1 "

4 " lOJ "

Those which have been given in other parts of the narra
tive, in the first volume, indicate the general size of the Lap
landers.

XSELE LAPP WOMAN— BIDE VIEW,
In the school, at a farm-house near the parsonage, about
seventy girls and boys were seated on the fioor^the teacher
or catechiser being in the centre of the room, in front of a
little table. He called one after another, making a long and
searching examination to see if they were strong in the faith,
and if they knew their catechism well. The room was crowd
ed with old men and women, Avho seeraed much interested in
the questions and answers. The children appeared humble
and timid as they stood before their teacher, knowing that

96

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

every one present Avas attentive. The pastor also examined
thera. As I listened to the questions my thoughts wandered
to other lands with a denser population, blessed with a fertile
soil and genial climate, having wealth and great resources,
with numerous large towns and thrifty villages ; I thought of
the millions in those countries who could not even read, and
I could not but compare them Avith the wandering Lapland-

AKJEPLOUO LAPP (tvVENTV-FIVE TEARS OF .ACE).
ers, who at least can read, and many of them can Avrite. Here
teachers travel from haralet to hamlet, as the population is too
scattered for a regular school-house. Honor is due to SAveden
and Norway for their long and earnest endeavors to carry ed
ucation to their remotest and raost thinljr inhabited regions.
The district of Torne^ Lappraark contains about 1200 square
railes, and has two socknav (parishes) with parsonages. The

WINTER ROUTES TO NORWAY.

97

church at Karesuando belongs to the parish of Enontekis,
which is divided into four byar (districts or haralets) : Kon-
gema or Rorto has 59 families ; Lainio-Avuoma, 65 ; Romma-
wuoraa, 25 ; Suonta-vaara, 44. Each have tracts of their own
on which to pasture their herds, and here the Swedish lansman
executes the laws.

JOKKMOKK LAPP (TWKNTY-FOTTB YEARS OF AGE).
The Lapps leave for Norway after Eastei', and return be
tween the end of August and the middle of September, fol
lowing the track of Kilpisjarvi, and going towards Balsfjord,
Tromso, and Marknasdalen. They follow another track, and
on the Norwegian coast are found at Ankenas, Bardo, Ibestad,
M§,lselven, and Trano och Senjen. They return in the autumn,
and wander in winter by Lake Torne towards the region of the
upper Muonio. The tract of land lying Avest of Karesuando,
VOL. II. H

98 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
and to the most northern part of Sweden, contains the greatest
number of Laplanders — about 1100 — who possess 80,000 rein
deer. There are also 300 farmers, chiefly Finlanders, scattered
over the region.
Jukkasjarvi, the parent church of the most northern part of
Sweden, was built in 1603, and the parish, by the census of
1870, contained 626 Laplanders. It is divided into four dis
tricts or hamlets : Kalas, with 31 families ; Rautas, with 20 ;
Saari-vuoma, with 19 ; Tallma, with 28.
I greatly enjoyed rayself here, for the winter is the travel
ling season, as then the rivers, lakes, and raarshes are frozen,
and one can roam over the roadless land with rapidity by rein
deer, or may go eastward to the White Sea and the land of
Saraoides — to Siberia, if he chooses ; westward and northward,
over the raountains, to the Norwegian coast. In Sweden and
Norway there are post-stations, where reindeer are procured,
and fjeldstue (houses of refuge), built by the Norwegian and
Swedish governraents to shelter travellers. Karesuando can
be reached with horses, the journey being quite easy as one
travels on the river ; but to go farther reindeer raust be used.
The following are the calculated distances : From Karesu
ando to Bosekop, on the Alten fjord, 175 miles ; from Kare
suando to Skibotten, on the Lyngen fjord, 133 miles ; from
Jukkasjarvi to Skibotten, 210 miles. There are several other
winter tracks leading to different parts of the Arctic Sea.
From TorneS, Lappmark an extensive traffic is carried on with
the NorAvegian coast, not only by the Laplanders but by Fin
landers. The parishes of Karesuando, Kautokeino, Karasjok,
and many haralets on the banks of the Muonio and upper
Torne rivers, and the farms scattered OA-er the country, con
tribute their quota of dairy products. I have no doubt that
even in this far North a greater population could be sup
ported ; a larger crop of grass could be obtained by improving
the drainage ; more horses and cattle could be raised, espe
cially as the latter feed so rauch on the lichens : the produc
tion of butter is even now increasing every year.
While in the remote and wild regions of the North, I always
made it a point to let some official or Avell-known person take

DEPARTURE FOB THE COAST. 99
cognizance of ray intended journeys, and trusted to them for
guides, as well as to secure the services of the right persons.
The people were so kind-hearted that in all cases I found
either the governor of the province, the clergyraan of the
parish, the doctor, judge, jagmastare, lansman, the principal
merchant of the place, or the leading farrafers ready to help
rae, and do all they could to further the object I had in view.
Without their help I should often have been unable to un
dertake interesting journeys ; their letters of introduction,
also, were of great value. I felt, too, that if people knew
where I had gone, it would act as a check on the evil-doer, if
any one were disposed to act badly, and that ray whereabouts
would be known in case of any accident or sickness.
I had come to Karesuando at a good tirae, for the inhabi
tants were making preparations to cross the raountains to at
tend a fair at Skibotten, a little haralet near the head of the
Lyngen fjord. There were six stations between the two
places. Finlanders and Laplanders were ready for the jour
ney. Butter, frozen reindeer raeat and sraoked tongues, skins,
Lapp shoes and gloves, and frozen ptarmigans were already
packed. Fish, coffee, sugar, flour, tobacco, and sundry hard
ware, provisions, goods, and oil were to be brought back.
Many had already gone on with their products ; from Karesu
ando alone raore than twenty kerres had left. They could
not wait for me, for they had heavy loads, and their aniraals
would go slowly, so I could soon overtake those who had
started. The pastor had sent a raessenger in search of a Lap
lander that he recoramended. One does not always know
where to flnd these people, and oftentiraes, when found, the
herd frora which the draught deer are to be chosen is at some
distance. A strong reindeer can draw from 200 to 400 pounds,
according to the country. Every load in Swedish and Nor
wegian Lapland is drawn in the boat-like sleigh, and by one
animal only. Among the Saraoides several reindeer are har
nessed together to a sleigh. If the country is mountainous,
a spare reindeer is taken in the descent of very steep hills.
My Laplander having arrived, I was ready to leave.
H 2

100 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER VIII.
Departure from Karesuando. — The Lapp Pehr. — Vuokainen. — Large Numbers of
Travellers. — An Obstinate Reindeer. — A Runaway. — A Lapp Woman comes to
my Help. — Lost for awhile. — Arrival at Sikavuopio. — Shelter House of Muk-
kavuoma. — A great Storm. — Making Ourselves Comfortable. — Ready to Cross the
Mountain Range. — Preparing for the Worst. — A Perfect Hurricane. — Sufferings.
— A Mask of Ice. — We come to a Halt. — Contmuing the Journey. — Down the
Hills. — Great Speed of Reindeer. — Thrown out of the Sleigh. — In a Predicament.
— Reindeer on the Ice. — Deep soft Snow. — Reindeer exhausted with Fatigue. —
Preparations before going down a Steep Gorge. — Dangerous Descent. — Helligs-
koven. — Another great Storm. — Arrival on the Norwegian Coast. — Skibotten. —
The Fair. — The Lyngen Fjord. — The Hamlet of Lyngen. — A Parsonage. — District
Doctors. — Hard Life of a Doctor. — The City of Tromso.
FouE kerres, with reindeer harnessed and ready to start,
stood on the frozen Muonio by the shore near the parson
age. Three of these were for Pehr, Elsa, and rayself, and
the fourth one contained our luggage, which had been made
secure Avith a skin over it, so that there was no fear of our
losing anything in case of upsetting. Elsa had only a sack,
in Avhich her whole wardrobe, coraposed of two home-made
dresses, two pairs of woollen stockings, a pair of leather shoes,
and two or three fine handkerchiefs, was packed. After din
ner the worthy pastor and his wife accompanied us to the
sleighs, and gave some advice to ray Lapp regarding the
journey. Though our reindeer started with great speed, they soon
slowed and became tired ; perhaps they had been used recent
ly, and were inferior to those at Muoniovaara. The track was
exceedingly good, and our kerres were almost buried in the
deep furrows made by preceding ones, for evidently there had
been considerable travel. Towards eleven o'clock at night our
aniraals were very weary, and we stopped at a farm called
Vuokainen or Vuokaimo, at the head of Lake Kellotijarvi, a

AN ANXIOUS MOMENT, 101
broad expanse of the river, which afterwards takes the name
of Kdngama. A strange sight raet us as we approached the
yard — about a hundred loaded kerres were standing in front,
and the farra-house was crowded with Finns and Lapps, who
were lying close together on the floor, all fast asleep. The
fixed odor of the roora was very disagreeable. A lamp hung
from the centre, and threw a dim light over the packed and
snoring crowd. In the next roora, on the only bed, was the
wife of the farmer, with a babe two or three days old. Even
there, on the fioor, were people fast asleep. " If my wife could
get up," said the husband, " I would give you the bed ; but
she cannot." To our reindeer we gave some moss, which we
bought for a sraall sum, and started again.
The next stopping-place was at the farm of Sikavuopio,
twelve miles farther. At first Pehr was unwilling to start, but
I said I would rather have slept on the snow than breathe
the air of that crowded roora. Our reindeer were obstinate,
and twice they turned back in spite of all the skill of Pehr ;
he had to get out of his kerres and lead his animal for awhile ;
then we started in the usual wild way. This time I brought
up the rear, when my reindeer gave a sharp turn that would
have upset me had I lacked experience ; then he started at full
speed back for Vuokaimo, and soon afterwards I found myself
dashing against the numerous sleighs in the yard. A Lapp
woman came to my rescue, and led the beast back quite a dis
tance — far enough to be sure that he would not take a fancy
to return. I followed in what I supposed to be Pehr's track,
but soon found that, in spite of ray extra speed, he was not to
be seen. I began to feel anxious, being alone, and not know
ing where I was going, and without a mouthful of provisions
with me. I stopped, and shouted "Pehr!" but no answer
carae; and then I continued on my way. Soon in the dis
tance I saw, over the snow, something black; I shouted
" Pehr ! Pehr !" again, and was glad to hear another shout of
" Paul ! Paul !" It was my leader, who had become anxious
at not seeing me, and was coming back with Elsa Karolina.
I had gone on the wrong track, as he suspected. The out
lines of the hills on our right were almost as distinct as dur-

102 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

0

ing the day, on account of the aurora borealis. It was 26'
below freezing at three o'clock a.m. when I reached the farm
house of Sikavuopio, where I found the people fast asleep.
The three beds were occupied — the two farm-girls were in
one ; the children, huddled together like rabbits, had another ;
and the man and his wife were in the third. Though the
room was intensely warm, they were all wrapped in skins.
The strangers' room was occupied by my friend the Finnish
lansman, who insisted on my taking his bed. When I refused,
he offered me half of it, which I also politely declined. The
farmer's wife got up, and spread for me two deer -skins on
the fioor, with some sheepskins for blankets; Elsa went to
sleep with the other two girls.
From Sikavuopio the hill -sides were clothed only with
birch-trees. In a couple of hours we came to Vittangi, near
the river, which there forms a lake. The dwelling-house, with
another low building for three cows, constituted the farm ; and
the family consisted of a man and his wife and two grown-up
daughters. The farmer himself was going to Skibotten, to sell
butter, shoes, skins, and several hundred ptarmigans, which he
had trapped during the winter. I tarried two hours, not only
to rest the reindeer but to stretch my limbs — for the seated
position required in the Lapp sleighs is very tiresome to one
unaccustomed to it^ — and I left the farm thankful for the kind
ness shown us. The landscape became more and more beauti
ful as we approached the head-waters of the stream, and the
farra and station of Mukkavuoraa. Our course was- over Lake
Kilpisjarvi, the source of the Muonio. Several feet of snow
covered the ice. We were evidently among the first, for there
were no fuiTows, or the wind had obliterated them. The sky
began to grow gray, and a storm apparently was coming ; the
breeze increased, and fiakes of snow began to fall ; the squalls
increased in force and frequency. These were the forerunners
of a series of great storras — in fact, the greatest I ever experi
enced. The dark clouds wei-e fiying very fast over our heads,
and the sky became wild and peculiar. I hurried my reindeer
to his utmost speed by striking his fianks, in order to keep
pace with Pehr, who saw what was coming, and wished to

A STORM AT MUKKAVUOMA, 103
reach the farm of refuge before the storm should burst upon
us. It was well that we hurried, for we had hardly reached
Mukkavuoraa when the wind blew furiously ; the snow was
driven in thick clouds, the hills were hidden from view, and
before us was nothing but a thick misty haze.
Mukkavuoma was composed of two farms, not far from each
other, overlooking Lake Kilpisjarvi. The farm-house, like
others, consisted of two rooms ^ one in which the inmates
lived, the other, with an open fireplace, for strangers ; the lat
ter Avas given to us. Elsa was quite ill with a burning fever,
this constant and hard travelling having been too much for
her ; the lansraan himself was so tired that he could hardly
raove. How welcome is such a spot to the weary traveller
during winter! How quickly he hastens to seek its shelter
when he sees a threatening snow-storm ready' to overtake him !
One by one some of the Finns we had left behind on the
way raade their appearance. Long before dark the storm had
greatly increased, and the wind blew a gale. We felt how
comfortable it was to be under shelter, and how cheerful was
our blazing fire, as through our little glass window we watched
the storm. The spectacle was so grand that I went out into
the yard, for I love to feel a great tempest beating upon my
face : there is something exhilarating to rae in the strong wind.
Our sleighs were now buried in the snow ; our reindeer, tied
together, were standing perfectly still. The hostess soon carae
in with four large trout from the Kilpisjarvi, which we roasted
for dinner on a bright charcoal fire ; besides, we had two ptar
migans, which had been cooked, in the mean tirae, in the next
room. These birds were very abundant, more than two thou
sand having been trapped by our host during the past winter.
The coffee-kettle, black from smut, was brought in, and cof
fee was served to us in large cups. After dinner another bed
was placed in the room for Elsa ; the lansman insisted on ray
taking the other one, but I was deterrained that he should have
it himself, as he was oldest ; a reindeer skin on the fioor was
quite enough for me ; I put clean dry stockings on my feet,
new grass in my shoes, so that my feet would be warm, and
my extra long deer robe over the other ; then I lay down and

104 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
slept comfortably. Several times during the night I was awa
kened by the noise of the wind, which howled dismally about
our little house.
Next morning the weather was calm. In the other room I
found Pehr fast asleep, with his dog by his side, and a number
of men on the floor snoring heavily. The farmer's wife was
grinding coffee ; the kettle was on the fire, and the dregs of
the day before were boiling in the water. When the people
got up the coffee was served, and those who had a little bran
vin mixed some with it, and offered it to those who had none.
Then one by one they made their preparations for departure,
first eating a hearty meal. As the charges were very high to
travellers — even those who slept on the floor having to pay
twelve skillings — every one had brought his own provisions.
The distance from Mukkavuoraa to Helligskoven, in Nor
way, was about thirty miles. The country was mountainous,
and the driving rough. Everybody had left the hospitable
fjeldstue of Mukkavuoma, notwithstanding the threatening ap
pearance of the weather. Pehr was anxious, thinking that we
were going to have another storm, and he well knew with
what force the wind blows" on the highest point wiiich we had
to cross ; we therefore prepared ourselves for the worst. My
stockings were dry, and my shoes had been carefully and firm
ly tied around ray reindeer pantaloons ; the belt at ray waist
was well secured, Pehr himself attending to my toilet ; I put
on a mask and a heavy hood ; my gloves were fastened at
the wrists, and I was ready for bad weather.
We had not left Mukkavuoma two hours, when signs of a
great storm gathered fast around ; the wind increased in vio
lence, heavy squalls burst upon us in quick succession, and at
last we found ourselves in the midst of a perfect hurricane,
while the mercury fell to 8° above zero. We were, however,
gradually reaching higher land, and were nearing the sumrait
of the range, though our reindeer travelled very slowly. No
traces whatever of those Avho had preceded us could be seen,
and Pehr Avas guided only by the outlines of the surrounding
hills and raountains, which showed themselves now and then
Avhen the gale moderated or the Avind varied in violence. The

TltAVEU.ING IN L\PLAND.

J jlf,^l,S^ OF ICE ON THE FACE. 105
storm continued to increase, and swept down upon us frora
the higher mountains and hill-sides with a force which I had
never Avitnessed before. The fine snow fiew so thickly that
at times the atmosphere became almost dark. I could see nei
ther Pehr, who led, nor Elsa. I could not even see my own
animal, and I let him take his course, knoA\ang that he would
instinctively follow his leader. At last I began to fear that we
might be separated and lost. I had very little food with me,
and only a small supply for the reindeer. Occasionally came
a short lull, and in the intervals the wind would blow with
the greatest fury. The fine snow-dust was getting through
the open spaces of the mask into my eyes. The small parti
cles then adhered to each other, gathering on my mustache,
eyebrows, eyelashes, and hair, and at last forraed a mask of ice
which blinded me. Every few rainutes I had to break this,
that it should not become so thick that I would be unable to
see. The ice was scarcely removed when it would form again,
causing me great pain whenever I broke it. At last I becarae
very anxious, for I had not for a long time seen even dimly
any other member of our party. I shouted for Pehr and
Elsa, but my voice was lost in the midst of that furious wind.
I became still more alarraed. To be lost in such a region in
a storra was no pleasant prospect. Suddenly through the
raist I discovered what appeared to be figures of reindeer
and men. They were standing still, afraid to move farther,
and ray animal stopped in their midst. They were a large
party of Lapps and Finns, my companions of Karesuando,
Kuttainen, and Mukkavuoma. I was glad to recognize Pehr
and Elsa araong thera. We could go no farther, for it was
now impossible to see anything ahead, and there was danger
of mistaking the passes which Avere to lead us to Norway ; be
sides, our reindeer needed rest, and from excessive thirst they
were eating the snow ravenously. I shall never forget how
the storra raged as we lay by a rock with our backs to the
wind. For three hours we remained still, frequently almost
buried, the thermometer being at 15° below zero. The wind
was so terrific at times that hardly a particle of the several
feet of snow that had fallen during the winter raonths re-

106 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
raained on the ground. It flew in dense bodies, carried hither
and thither; a hill was no sooner formed than it scattered
in thick heavy raasses ; we were fearful of being buried under
one of these hillocks, which were as dangerous as those formed
by sand in the desert of Sahara.
The object ray companions seemed to have in Adew was
to shelter rae as rauch as they could from the fury of the
wind ; they would surround me as a protection ; one of them
especially, Ephraim Person, from Kuttainen, tried to keep a
large bear-skin over me ; but it was of no avail, the tempest
was so powerful. Then, gradually, the wind became less vio
lent, and we continued our journey. As we had to go over
raany raountain-tops and ravines, one of our party proposed
that we should travel close together, for fear of getting sep
arated. I noticed, by the quickening steps of ray animal,
that we were approaching the slope of a hill. I was not mis
taken, and we descended a long steep declivity with fearful
speed. Suddenly ray reindeer sank above his flank into a
bank of unpacked snow, and before he had time to spring out
my sleigh dashed rapidly ahead of him, and, suddenly stop
ping, threw me out ; fortunately I leaped in quickly, and the
animal again started at what I thought a greater speed than
before. One of the Finlanders just in front of me was less fortu
nate. His sleigh, moving faster than his deer, struck upon
the legs of the animal, and he was thrown out ; I saw the dan
ger at a glance, but, being unable to stop, went rushing down
in the same track. My sleigh struck his, and by the force of
the collision I was pitched head foremost into the snow. To
add to the confusion, ray animal became mad and charged
upon me ; but I was soon on my legs and in again, following
the Finn, who had started once raore, and was going at a rapid
rate towards the base of the hill. Then came Elsa's turn to
be upset ; but soon she recovered her seat, and we reached the
bottom without further mishap. The adventure was exciting
and glorious. At the foot of the hill the suoav covered thinly
the frozen stream, and the scene became rather ludicrous.
There was not &now enough to prevent the reindeers' hoofs

REINDEER MOVING THROUGH DEEP SNOW, 107
from touching the ice, so it was an impossibility for thera to
advance a step ; the awkward attempts they made were quite
amusing. We were compelled to get out of the sleighs and
lead the animals, and it was with considerable difficulty and
great loss of time that we succeeded in crossing. It is impos
sible for reindeer to travel over ice.
As we ascended the mountains on the other side the snow
became deeper; a part of the way led us through very nar
row ravines, in which it was so deep and soft that our boat
like sleighs ploughed heavily through it, sinking sometimes
into it above their sides. I could not but admire the adapta
tion of the reindeer for such travelling ; their hoofs, between
which grows long hair, spread in the snow as soon as their
feet touched it, and although the depth must have been in
places eight or ten feet, they seldom sank as deeply into it as
their knees. They moved so quickly that there was no time
for them to sink deeper. At times, however, when passing
through a very soft and heavy snowdrift, they would sink
even to their bellies.
Our progress now was exceedingly tedious. In ascending
the hills, our reindeer became very tired from their struggles
in the snow; they were heated; their mouths would open,
and they panted for breath, sometimes even protruding their
tongues. They were often so exhausted that they would drop
upon the snow and lie on their backs, apparently in great
suffering, then breathe very hard, and be so utterly helpless
that a stranger would think they were about to die. After
resting a few minutes in that position they would regain their
breath, rise to their feet, eat snow, and set off again. There
were many steep and short hills,. up which it was impossible
for them to run, and we were often obliged to get out of our
sleighs to let them rest.
We came to the worst part of the journey, on the brink of
a narrow ravine, and stopped, for the descent was very abrupt,
and preparations to insure safety had to be made. I felt
rather concerned when I saw the difficulties to be encountered
on the route, which was somewhat crooked ; in sorae places
the ridge over which we were to drive was quite narrow, the

108 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
gneiss rocks were bare, and the track very steep and danger
ous. The prospect was not a cheerful one. I had sorae ob
jection to being pitched into the snow, and no inclination to
be dashed against rocks or boulders at the risk of a broken
head. I remembered, for the first time, the recommendation
of my London bankers, who, as I left London, said, " Travel with
a placard on your back — ' To be forwarded to Baring Brothers !' "
Pehr and the other Finns waited for those who were be
hind. While resting I watched the weary reindeer eating
snow as fast as they could. The way by which we were to
make the descent was entirely new to me. After every one
had arrived the preparations began. Numbers of sleighs were
lashed together by a long and strong leather plaited cord,
which was first secured to the forward part of each; then,
passing along the middle, was made fast ; after which it was
attached to the next in the same manner, and so on; four
others were connected with mine. In this way eight or ten are
often fastened together. With the exception of the leader,
each reindeer was secured to the rear of his sleigh by a leather
cord from the base of the horns : almost every sleigh had a
deer behind. Each man remained in his vehicle, the distance
apart being sraall. Pehr was to take the lead. The spare
reindeer were for the first time harnessed, and the tired ones
put behind. Pehr had to start the whole train, which, when
once put in motion, would go with great velocity ; he rode
with his legs outside, turned back somewhat, with his feet
touching the snow. Every raan but rae seated himself in
the sarae posture, the feet acting as rudder and drag in the
snow. I was not allowed to ride in that way, for they said my
legs would surely be broken. Ephraim, of Kuttainen, attached
his conveyance behind mine, and also had a reindeer to act as
a drag ; in that way he would be able to watch and direct my
movements. When everything was ready Pehr looked back
and gave the signal, and started his reindeer down the hill in
a zigzag course. This required great dexterity, as we flew
over the snow with astonishing speed. At times the sleighs
would swerve on the declivity, but we went so fast that we
were soon out of danger.

A DANGEROUS DESCENT. 109
I was anxious in the highest degree. If one of those cords
had broken we should have been precipitated far below, or
dashed against the rocky sides. I admired the simplicity of
the arrangements, which were dictated by the fact that rein
deer cannot bear to be pulled by the head, especially by the
horns ; each one, therefore, makes an effort to disengage hira
self, and by so doing acts as a brake on the ones in front, so
that no sleigh is likely to be overturned. But what a speed,
with a precipice on our right! In two or three places we
went for a short distance over the bare rocks ; I was afraid
the reindeer would miss their foothold, and was intensely
excited, for I might at any moment have been thrown out
headlong. Pehr and my other companions were accustomed
to this route, and knew what they were about. After reach
ing the bottora of the ravine we allowed the panting aniraals
to rest. We were now on the western shed of the mountains,
and had just ended the most thrilling ride I had ever taken.
Though protected from the wind, we could hear it whistling
through the branches of the leafless birches, for we had again
reached the level of tree vegetation ; as we descended, the for
est became thicker and the trees larger. It was dark when we
came to the mountain shelter-farm of Helligskoven. How
welcome was that house of refuge to us ! All of ns were stiff
from cold and our seated position, and we had also been the
Avliole day without food : it was the hardest day's travelling I
had ever experienced. We were so tired that we were not
hungry. Pehr produced a bottle of sherry wine, which had
been packed in the sleigh surrounded by a thick deer -skin,
and the eyes of my friendly and kind-hearted companions
brightened as a glass was given to each. I felt at once that it
did me good, for our feet had been dangling in the snow a
great part of the tirae without snow-shoes. Our siraple fare
consisted of coarse, hard, black, flat bread, with butter, cheese,
and coffee, though the latter was salted.
A single room offered the only accommodation for the fam
ily and the travellers ; there was no open fireplace, but a large
stove; poles were fastened under the ceiling, on which to
hang our clothes, stockings, and shoes. Coffee was drank, cup

no THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
after cup, with real enjoyment, and soon all were fast asleep,
some on the floor, others on the plain beds, without straw or
hay. The storm, which had somewhat abated on our arrival,
increased after midnight, and continued through the next day ;
but during one of the lulls we started, for we could not wait,
as the fair would last only three days, and I did not A^sh to
desert my travelling friends, all of whom had been such good
and thoughtful companions. Our sleighs were lashed togeth
er again, and we bade good-bye to Helligskoven, which had
been built by the Norwegian Governraent as a place of ref
uge. Not far from the farra two or three short fir-trees
raised their heads among the shorter birches.
Soon after our departure the gale intensified, and became
almost a repetition of the storm of the day before. Then it
began to snow heavily, and we were obliged to stop, as we
could not see our way, and had lost our reckoning : the wind
had the effect of making me dizzy. When the storra ceased
the men did not know exactly where we were, and had mis
taken sorae of the outlines of the raountains. They put on
their snow-shoes and went to reconnoitre; they soon came
back with the pleasing news that, we were only a little out
of the way. The weather cleared suddenly, and became very
cold. Being obliged to take off one of ray gloves, my hand
instantly became almost like marble, and useless ; I rubbed
it at once with snow, and quickly replaced it in the mitten.
The snow became less deep ; and when we came to a small
lake, which. we tried in vain to cross in order to shorten the
distance, we were forced to skirt the shores, as the late storm
here had blown the ice bare.
The fir-trees had for some time been about us, and were
thicker and thicker as we descended the mountain and reach
ed warmer regions. It was quite dark when, at 8 p.m., we
came to the haralet of Skibotten, and stopped in front of a
large painted house by the fjord. We had been four days
on the way. Through one of the windows I could see a blaz
ing fire in the kitchen. I entered, and addressing myself to
two young girls, said, "Can you give shelter to a hungry and
tired stranger, who has just come from Sweden over the

THE HAMLET OF SKIBOTTEN, 111
mountains?" "Welcome art thou! Whence comest thou?"
" From America." " The more welcorae, then, for we have a
sister in the State of Minnesota." From the kitchen I was
taken into the next room, both the girls helping rae to remove
ray Lapland robes. The owner of the house, their father,
came in and greeted me. I was soon enjoying a substan
tial meal, for I had not eaten for many hours — not since we
left Helligskoven. The people looked at me with astonish
ment, and asked if I did not fear to travel alone in such a wild
country. "Are you not afraid you will be robbed or raurder
ed by the mountain Lapps? How would people ever know
if you were killed for the sake of your money ?" They then
told the story of sorae foreigner who had not been heard from,
and who was supposed to have been murdered ; his name they
could not tell : of course nobody had been killed, but many of
the inhabitants on the coast are strongly prejudiced against
the mountain Lapps. The conversation ended by their advis
ing me to be careful, and not trust rayself araong those dread
ful Lapps Avho live in the inaccessible raountains.
The fjord was frozen at its upper extremity, and during the
two days I reraained here the raercury averaged 22° to 24°.
The haralet of Skibotten is situated near the head of the
fjord. Three fairs take place here every year, that of March
being the least important. A few log-houses had been built
by the merchants who come only to sell and buy goods, the
houses at other tiraes being unoccupied. Laplanders and
Finlanders were still arriving ; all had experienced great diffi
culty in crossing over on account of the storm, and we heard
that raany had returned horae, or reraained at the mountain
farms, frightened by the severe Aveather. The fair lasted frora
Saturday until Tuesday, business being suspended on Sunday.
Saturday and Monday were the great days, after which all raay
be said to be ended.
Several houses of farraers and fishermen had been turned
into inns, and most of the people were satisfied to find a
sleeping-place on the fioor. Coffee was made everywhere, a
large cup, well salted, costing three cents, and strangers could
procure a meal very cheaply. These people work so hard to

112 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
get money that they do not squander it ; many had brought
their provisions with them, and paid only for lodgings or cof
fee. I treated Pehr aud ray companions to several meals — an
attention which very rauch pleased thera.
Scattered at the back of the houses were numerous kerres
loaded with frozen meat, ptarmigans (ten thousand of these
birds are sent to this part of the coast every winter), butter,
skins, shoes, gloves, etc., each owner having his sleighs group
ed together. The bargains were made on the spot, and the
articles after being sold were stored in the log-houses. When
the sellers had received their money, they wandered from
store to store to buy what they wanted.
I had now brought Elsa Karolina within a short distance of
her home, for one of her sisters lived near. I gave her a few
presents, a little money, and a gold ring to remeraber me by.
I have often wondered since what has becorae of ray inter
preter and fellow-traveller over the mountains to the Lyngen
fjord. I did not desert my companions of the fjelds; the storm
had raade us all fast friends ; we were a good part of the time
together, and I took great interest in their bargains, and was
as delighted as they were when I heard they had sold what
they had brought at fair prices. I treated them to many
cups of coffee, they returning the compliraent, and we passed
the time in a very agreeable way. Faithful Pehr received
more pay than I had agreed to give him, and we parted on
good terms, all wishing to their friend Paul a successful jour
ney, and Ephraim making rae promise to come to his home,
which was but a few miles from Karesuando, on my return.
How austere and impressive was the winter scene at the
Lyngen fjord, with its small glaciers and snow ! At some dis
tance from Skibotten was the hamlet of Lyngen; the land
scape surrounding the place Avas extreraely picturesque, the
hills were clad with birch-trees. By the church Avas the par
sonage. How tidy were the rooms ! how hospitable were the
pastor and his family! In the parlor windows the flower
shrubs bent their tops towards the outside light, and seemed
to look at the snow.

MEDICAL FEES, 113
Not far frora the parsonage, high up and overlooking the
lovely landscape of the fjord, was the new horae of the doctor
who had raet me at Skibotten, and I had corae to make the
promised visit. He had been appointed doctor of the dis
trict but a short tirae before, and had just bought the farm.
When I arrived he was not at home, but his young and
amiable wife received me with great kindness, and bade me
await her husband's return ; she was expecting him every
minute: he had gone to see some patient. While waiting
for him, his wife ha\'ing gone to prepare a raeal, I looked
around. The house was a picture of neatness ; there was evi
dence of refineraent everywhere in this plain unpretending
home — books, music, engravings. In a short time the doctor
came. He was cold aud tired, for the sail had been a long
one, as the patient lived far away. The district to which he
had been appointed by the Government was a large one.
Throughoiit Scandinavia there are distrihts Iwge (doctors of
a district) who receive yearly a certain amount of remunera
tion from the State, varying according to places ; for the pop
ulation is so scattered that, were it not so, large tracts of coun
try would be found without medical help, for doctors could
not raake a living. The fees they receive are regulated by
law, according to the distance travelled from their residence.
Hard, indeed, is the life of country doctors, especially of those
whose districts are on the fjords or by the sea -coast. The
only way of locomotion they have is by boat. Often they
have to sail or row some twenty or thirty miles, or even more,
and encounter all sorts of weather; and great praise is due
them for their lives of self-denial. I did not wonder they
were so highly esteemed by the people.
From the haralet of Lyngen, or Lyngseidet, a short valley
crosses the peninsula to the Ulfs fjord, over which there is a
good driving road. After a sail through a magnificent, ever-
changing panorama, on the 25th of March I arrived at Troraso,
one of Norway's charming little towns, with a population of
5000 inhabitants. The houses are painted and cheerful, there
are some very pretty villas, and the situation of the place is
beautiful ; the smiling landscape is quite in contrast with the
VOL. II. I

114 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
weird mountains. This is a very thriving seaport, and sends
expeditions yearly to Spitzbergen and other places in the far
North for seals. There are some wealthy and entei-prising
merchants, several banks, and fine schools. It is the residence
of the Stif tamtmand, and of the bishop of the diocese.
My journey over the mountains beyond the arctic circle,
between 69° aud 70° lat., was over. I had met raany a storm
on the Atlantic ; the tornado of the equator had often passed
over my head or struck the ship which bore me, but of all the
wind-storms I ever encountered that of the mountains we had
just crossed was the grandest. As I look back to those days I
fancy I can hear the shrieks and howling of the Avind, and re
meraber how I crouched upon the rocks for safety, while the
tempest beat upon me as if the elements had obtained the
mastery over the world, and chaos was coming again.

THE BEAUTIFUL ISLANDS OF LOFODEN. 11!!

CHAPTER IX.
The Lofoden Islands. — Their Picturesque Appearance. — The Voyage from Tromso.
— A Magnificent Sunset. — The Raftsund. — Svolvaer. — Thousands of Fishing-boats.
— Migration of Cod. — Henningsvser. — A Great Fishing-place. — A Kind Merchant.
— Lofoden Hospitality. — Care of the Norwegian Government over the Fisher
men. — Hospitals. — Fishing Regulations. — Telegraphs. — Comfortable Clothing of
Fishermen. — The Finmarken Boats. — The Start. — Return. — Price of Cod. —
Cleaning the Cod. — Fishing Lapps. — Going after Cod. — Signal for Departure. —
The Fishing-grounds. — Net-fishing. — An Afternoon with the Fishermen. — Line-
fishing. — A Kind Woman. — Stamsund. — Manufacture of Cod-hver Oil. — Rev
erence of Fishermen for God. — A Sunday at Church. — A Worthy Pastor. — Love-
making on Sunday Afternoon. — Departure from Lofoden.
Theee is a group of islands not far from the Norwegian coast,
beyond the arctic circle, between lat. 67° and 69°, called the
Lofoden. They are unsurpassed in their wild beauty ; a tem
pestuous sea beats almost all the year against their rocky walls ;
the warm Gulf-stream laves their shores. As one sails araong
them their fantastic forms are ever -changing in appearance,
some of their peaks appearing like needles against the blue
sky. Their outlines stand out clear and sharp, and their pur
ple color grows dimraer and dimmer as thfey fade away frora
sight, like a vision of the sea. No wonder that in ancient
tiraes the mariner regarded them alraost with reverence, and
believed that a malstrom* should guard their approach from
the south, so beautiful are they. Looking from thera towards
the main-land, a hundred peaks can be seen on the mountains
clad with snow and glaciers, and from the bare brow of the
* In consequence of the great masses of water which the tides force through
the narrow sounds between the islands of Lofoden, the current becomes extremely
strong, and forms the ao-called Malstrom, which is strongest between Lofoden Cape
and Mosken ; this, without being of the significance ascribed to it, can in winter,
during westerly gales, run in strong whirls, and with a speed of twenty-six miles
an hour, according to official statistics. I ^

116 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
coast the Lofoden appear like a gigantic uneven waU rising
from the sea.
Nowhere have I seen such beautiful sunsets as in those re
gions. In the spring the glow is so bright that it seems to
typify the fire of youth. In the autumn the sunsets are the
finest ; but, as if foreshadowing the repose of nature before
winter comes, their golden hue is more mellow. In summer
the midnight sun shines for awhile over the mountains and
the sea that washes their shores. In winter furious snow
storms clothe the lofty hills in white, while the gales dash
the waves against the imraovable walls ; but occasionally there
coraes a clear bright night when the aurora borealis, in all
its varied beauties, crowns the Lofoden with a halo of glory.
Some of the islands are quite large, and possess fertile tracts,
and their shores here and there are lined Avith haralets and
farms, protected from the stormy sea. The approach, either
frora the north or south, is very fine.
Frora Tromso the sail southward is at times grand in the
extreme : jagged wild mountains, alpine in their appearance,
their abrupt sides denuded of snow, Avith here and there a
sraall glacier, are numerous ; the West fjord, formed by the
Lofoden group on the west and the main-land on the east
side, grows narrower towards the north, and gradually loses
itself in a labyrinth of islands and the Ofoten fjord.
On the 31st of March, about seven o'clock p.m., as we came
towards Lodingen, situated on the island of Hindd, a scene
of indescribable splendor was before us ; it was one of the
finest sunsets I had ever seen. Towards the east were the
towering mountains of the main-land, their hollows appearing
like golden valleys surrounded by white snowy peaks, while
island after island rose from the sea in the soft light. The
sight was so extremely beautiful that I could not restrain my
enthusiasm. When night came, the fantastic forms of the
mountains appeared still more strange; the stars were reflected
in the quiet sea, for there was not a breath of wind ; it was a
fitting close of the last day of March on this bleali, barren,
stormy country of the North.
Among the many beautiful sails is the one on the Raftsund,

', '1;

il ' ,'

jif .
I'm ,1

r I'
II

THE MIGRATION OF CODFISH. 117
formed by the islands of East Vaagen and Hindo ; there the
scenery is exceedingly beautiful, and the sound gradually nar
rows until it looks like a river, flanked by towering mountains
rising from the water's edge. The sea is deep, and of a green
color. The landscape grows grander and grander. Every
where rise fantastic peaks of all imaginable shapes, towering
above the level of the water. Glaciers and patches of snow
cling to the mountain-sides, and beautiful cascades pour down
the dark weather-beaten rocks. The ragged mountains and the
deep fissures increase the wildness of the scene. Moraines are
seen here and there, and boulders seem ready to topple down.
Noav and then a little log-hut is passed.
On a clear morning, the first of April, I emerged from
this sound into a lake -like bay studded with islands, and
neared the island of Svolvser, steaming in the raidst of hun
dreds of fishing -boats coming back under sail, and loaded
with codfish newly caught. The Lofoden are famed for their
cod- fisheries, which begin in the latter part of January and
last until the beginning of April. At that time the rocky
and deserted islands becorae full of life ; thousands of fish
ing-craft corae, and hundreds of small vessels are seen nestled
safely araong the islands. The codfish, in untold numbers,
make their appearance, whence no one knows, to spawn. They
begin to arrive in January, and leave at the end of March or
at the beginning of April, migrating towards the North Cape
and along the Finmarken coast ; they then disappear for the
year. How wonderful is the migration of fish ! Whither do they
go? How well they know the time for returning to deposit
their ova! The codfish are found in large numbers along
the coast; they occur in vast shoals only from the Lofoden
Islands northward along the Finmarken coast. High above
the fishing settlement of Svolvser are twin rocks, looking,
as the people said, as if they were kissing each other; they
incline towards each other somewhat like the arms of an in
verted V. Fishing establishments are located on small isl
ands lying at the base of the towering consorts, but so over
shadowed by the high shore that they can only be seen at

118 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
a short distance ; they are often clustered so closely as to pro
tect each other from the wind, and thus enjoy exceUent harbors.
We remained but a short tirae at Svolvaer; and after a
pleasant sail we cast anchor before Henningsvjier, ray place of
destination. Several sharp whistles warned the people of our
arrival. From the deck of the vessel no sign of a habitation
was seen, when suddenly boats emerged from behind the
rocks, and speedily came along-side. I left the steamer and
soon entered a natural canal formed by two islands, Hennings
vser and Hellandso, where an unexpected sight burst upon us :
a fieet, hitherto unseen, was at anchor, and in large numbers.
Seventy-five sail had come here this year — sloops, schooners,
and cutters — with crews aggregating 328 men. Most of these
vessels bought their fish directly from the fishermen ; several
had stores, and sold sugar, coffee, ship -bread, tobacco, and
many other things. There were 688 fishing-boats, 351 of
which had come to fish with nets, the remainder Avith hook
and line ; the crews of all nurabered 3337 men. Craft laden
with fish, some almost to the water's edge, were going to and
fro, stopping along-side of a vessel to make a bargain, pulling
their loads on board, or making for the land. Imraense quan
tities of cod were piled one upon another on the shore, men
were busj' opening aud cleaning thera, and tens of thousands
of the fish were hanging upon poles to dry. Numerous log-
houses were surrounded by barrels filled with cod livers, and
every rock was covered with heads. Hundreds of boats lined
the shores, crowding the narrow channel. Great numbers of
eider-ducks, as tame as those on farms, were swimming to and
fro, seeming to know that no one would harm them.
We pulled along until we came in front of several large
houses, where we landed. Here Avas the great establishment of
the place, belonging to a Norwegian, the richest man of Nord-
land, who was worth 300,000 or 400,000 dollars, at the least.
I had raade on board the acquaintance of the clergyman and
lansman, Avho at this time resided here, and they presented
rae to the hostess, Avho kindly offered me the hospitality of
the house, and said I could stay as long as I wished. This in
vitation was the raore acceptable, as there was no other place

A GREAT FISHING-STATION. 119
where I could have found shelter. The goodness of her heart
was marked on her face. Her husband was one of those self-
made men who have acquired a large fortune, and have not
changed their ways since they started in life. He spent the
day in his store, buying and selling fish. He welcomed rae,
but did not talk much, his mind seeming intent on his busi
ness, for it Avas just the height of the season, and he was an
extensive exporter of fish. A large room was shown me, and
soon dinner was served. For a wonder, there were no chil
dren in the family. A young niece and another lady friend
did the honors, and helped the hostess in her arduous duty of
house-keeping. Several persons were at dinner — mostly cap
tains of the craft engaged in the fishery. The lensmand, the
clergyraan, and doctor were guests during the fishing-season,
for only two or three farailies dwell on the island the year
round. Henningsvasr is the largest fishing-station on the Lo
foden — there are years when over 800 boats go there to fish.
The warehouse of my host was a sight worth seeing : long
deep rows of freshly-salted codfish, six feet high, were packed
together, to be afterwards laid on the rocks and dried. There
are three different ways of caring the cod. The first, and the
most common, is to cut the fish open, flatten, and salt it, put
ting it afterwards on the rocks to dry. The second is to open
the fish, tie them two and two, without being salted, and hang
them on frames. The third is to divide each in halves, con
nected only by the gills ; the spine is then taken out, and the
fish hung upon the frames: this raethod is rauch the quick
est, as the air now operates directly on the exposed flesh of
the fish, soon making it as hard as wood. It takes one to two
months to dry the fish, according to the season.
In sight was the island of East Vaage, with its towering
peak, Vaagokallen, 4000 feet high. At its base were several
islands, araong thera Henningsvser. The settlement is built
on both sides of the channel formed by two islands. The
houses of the fishermen are of logs, generally with a single
large room, around the walls of which are bunks, as in the
forecastle of a ship. These rooms could hold from twenty to
twenty-five raen, two or three sleeping in the sarae bunk ; but.

120 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
as there were no women to take care of the premises, the beds
were far from being inviting. The houses appeared to be very
dirty, and vermin were said to abound. The surroundings were
worse ; the ground was saturated with blood and offal — ^fish-
heads lay drying on the rocks in every direction ; barrels full
of rotten livers, salted roes or tongues of cod, and fish hanging
out to dry by thousands, combined to make the smell far from
agreeable. Each boat pays one hundred and twenty codfish
for lodgings during the season, and each house brings four
hundred and eighty; all the houses on the island, and the
island itself, belonged to my host.
The Norwegian Government exercises a paternal care over
the men who form such an important part of its population,
and who contribute so much to the wealth and prosperity of
the country. If it were not for the fisheries many districts of
that rocky coast would be uninhabited. Small hospitals are
built on several islands ; during the fishing-season doctors sent
by the State attend to the sick, giving their advice free ; med
icines only are paid for, and at a rate that merely covers their
cost. A very small duty is paid on the fish sold, and the
revenue frora this source is applied to defray the expense of
medical attendance. There was a project for building a large
hospital on Henningsvser.
The sale of spirituous liquors and of intoxicating drinks is,
wisely, entirely forbidden ; and during my two weeks' stay I
saw but a single intoxicated raan ; he had brought his liquor
from sorae point outside the fishing jurisdiction. This ab
stention frora intoxicating drinks recalls to raind the warning
given in the old laws of the Vikings (" Vikingabalk") :
Wine is Valfader's* drink, and
An inebriation (nwf ) is welcome to thee
If thou can sensibly bear it.
The one who is reeling ashore can brace up ;
But to Iian\ reelest thou here (on the sea).
* Valf ader, the name given to Odin. \ Rm, intoxication, inebriation, a drunk.
J Ran, the fickle daughter of jEgir, the god of the sea, called the enchantress,
from her peculiar power of enchanting mariners, drawing them to the bottom, and
never letting them return. Hence the dread of the people of going to her, and
the admonition against drinking while on the deep.

WHEN THE COD-FISHERIES BEGIN. 121
Formerly no nets or lines were laid, nor any fishing per
mitted, from Saturday afternoon until Monday morning. But
a law has been passed (1869) allowing the fishermen to raise
their nets till seven o'clock Sunday morning. The maximum
fine for fishing during the prohibited time is one thousand
dollars. A naval officer, called qpsynschef, has the supreme oversight
of everything. Under him are lensmend who enforce the rules
regulating the fisheries, and arrest those who violate thera.
There is a circuit judge, holding court at different points, who
decides questions in dispute among the fishermen, and pun
ishes any infraction of the laws. Vessels of the navy cruise as
police ; telegraphic lines connect the main fishing-stations, and
the number of fish caught is known every day, not only here
but in every port of Norway. Everything seems provided to
enable the State to gather her harvest from the sea.
The fishing season commences at the end of January ; from
the 24th of January to the 8th of February, the fishermen can
not put out frora shore before seven o'clock ; afterwards, to a
date to be fixed, they cannot go before six o'clock ; frora the
22d of March to the 14th of April, five o'clock. The cod-
fisheries are virtually closed after the 14th of April. The
fleet of fishermen is classified in three categories: Liners,
those who fish with lines and nuraerous hooks ; Gam, those
who fish with nets ; and Dyhsagn, those who fish with a sin
gle hook or line. The fishing -grounds in Lofoden are di
vided into twenty-one districts ; at each of these all the boats
have to start together, and all must return the same day, and
about the same time, if possible. Every fishing district has its
own letter, and each boat has a number ; the narae of every
fisherman being registered, with his place of residence, birth,
etc., so that in cases of disaster the crew of any missing craft
can be identified. Formerly the men were obliged to remain
during the whole season in the fishing district they had chos
en ; but now they can go from one district to another, though
they must report at once before beginning to fish.
I was surprised at the very comfortable clothing of the fish
ermen ; none suffered from cold on account of the thinness of

122 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
their garments, nor were any ragged ; all wore thick stock
ings, and had water-proof clothing, tarpaulins, and comfortable
sea-boots. It spoke well for the humble households of these
fishermen, and for the thrift and industry of their families,
that almost everything they had was home - raade ; they all
had horaes, however humble, either on the fjords by the coast,
or on some little island. Every one retired early. The steadi
ness and good behavior of those hardy sons of the sea I have
never seen equalled in any other country. During my sojourn
in Henningsvser there was never any fighting or quarrelling,
and the lensmand was the only raan there to preserve law
and order. At all these fishing-stations everything is as safe
as on shore ; the doors are left open, chests are never locked,
and no one would ever think of stealing the fish that were
drying. Two kinds of boats are used ; one is open, from thirty to
thirty-five feet long, and six to six and one-half feet beam ;
the Finmarken boats are longer — they have a house on the
poop — being frora thirty-five to forty feet and more in length,
and from seven to seven and one-half feet beam ; a pole sev
eral feet long is attached to the rudder, and held by the last
rower, who steers as well as pulls, thus saving the labor of one
man. Their cabins are about eight or nine feet long, afford
ing protection at sea and sleeping accommodations, as the raen
do not return to land every day. The engraving from one
of my photographs (given opposite this page) shows the struct
ure of the boats. There are also little craft used for trans
porting the fish from the shore to the A'essels ; these are not
more than nine feet long by four feet Avide.
The morning after ray arrival I was up at four o'clock to
Avitness the start of the fishing fieet. I stood by the flag-staff
on the highest point of the island. No one is allowed to
leave before the flag is hoisted. The fishermen came one by
one, and all Avere seated in their boats for some time before
the signal was given. At five precisely the flag Avas hauled up
by the lensmand, and the air was filled with a heavy booming
sound from several thousand oars dipping into the Avater at
the sarae time, and working Avith astonishing regularity, Avhich

THE RETURN OF THE FISHING-BOATS.

123

continued for quite awhile. As they moved away the boats
began to scatter, and by the time they reached the fishing
banks — about seven or eight railes from Henningsvser, and
covered with from sixty to one hundred fathoms of Avater —
they were widely apart. From the height I could see the
light-house on the island of Hellandso, which lies opposite, and
forms the canal-like port. Lonely indeed now seemed the low
islands ; the landscape, so beautiful when seen from a distance,
was melancholy and dreary when near at hand.
At ten o'clock, one by one, the boats came back, and by
noon the whole fleet was in, Avith an immense number of
fish. Life had returned to Henningsvser. Boats moved to
and fro, going from vessel to vessel, the fishermen trying to
raake the best bargains they could, and everybody was busy.
On the decks were piled the fish just caught ; these were clean
ed on board, Avashed, salted, and laid in the hold one on top
of another. These vessels would, after the fishing season, go
home to some solitary farm by the fjord, and their cargo would
be dried on the rocks. The price of the fish varied somewhat
every day, according to the catch ; that day it was seven Nor
wegian dollars* per hundred, without livers, eggs, and heads ; it
is sometimes less. Great
numbers of ducks and
gulls were feeding upon
the mass of offal thrown
upon the water. On that
day the catch was said to
have reached nearly three
hundred and fifty thou
sand codfish ; I have been
told that sometimes it
goes as high as half a
million a day. Many
boats landed their loads
along the shore, where raen were busy preparing the fish.
Those engaged in this Avork were dressed in large pantaloons.

EIDER-DUOK.

* The Norwegian dollar is worth .?1 12.

124 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
aprons, and cuffs of leather. One man cut off the heads;
another took out the intestines, and cast them on one side ;
others put the heads, the livers, and the eggs by themselves ;
the latter were carefully put in barrels and salted — a barrel
containing the ova of 300 fish ; these were sold for nine dol
lars : they are sent to France or Italy, where they are used for
catching sardines. The livers were put in barrels by them
selves, sold to the merchants, and kept till rotten, when cod-
liver oil is made frora them. Two barrels of fat livers are said
to yield a barrel of brown oil. The tongues were salted, and
kept by the fishermen for their own use. The heads were
scattered on the rocks to dry, to be used to feed the cattle
at home, or to be sold with the bones for fish manure, a man
ufactory of which is close at hand, on another island.
A few days ago I was roaming over raountains covered Avith
snow, and ou frozen lakes and rivers ; my coursers were rein
deer, and my dress that of a Laplander. Now I was clad
like a Norwegian fisherman.
I had deliberately made up my mind from the time I
landed in Scandinavia to see everything for myself, and not
to trust to hearsay for descriptions, so I concluded to go on
fishing excursions. The lensmand kindly chose the craft in
which I should go. When I came out a profound silence
reigned over the fishermen's houses, and nothing was heard
but the shrill cry of the gulls ; the boats were by the shore,
ready to start. The quietness of the scene soon changed ; the
men came, and within a short time all was activity. I was
fortunate in my arrival here, for it was the first fine weather
of the winter. Before this there was a continuous series of
gales and snow-storms, and the year had been one of the most
tempestuous known for a long time. My boat had upon it the
letter H — which signified that it carae frora Henningsvser —
bore the number 87, and was manned by six persons. It be
longed to Evert Arntsen Kildal, from Melo, a place on the
Nordland coast. He was a leading man in the church, and
had the reputation of being a good Christian. The crcAv was
composed of two strong elderly men, two younger, of about
tAventy, and one boy fourteen years of age, Avho Avas serving

RAISING THE FISHING-NETS. 125
his apprenticeship. These fisheries of Norway are splendid
schools for the making of sailors, and it is no wonder that
they are considered among the best by the maritime nations of
the world, not only for seamanship but for their honesty, good
temper, and respect for discipline. All eyes were watching
the flag-staff. Suddenly the fiag was hoisted, and thousands of
oars struck the water. We pulled to get out of the channel,
and, as the wind was favorable, the boats steadily approached
their fishing-grounds. The crew were guided entirely by the
positions of the surrounding mountains, and with great accu
racy came to their lines.
Every fisherman has his distinct buoys, representing the
different objects that he may need to recognize. We went to
the first one — a pine roller about four feet long — to the centre
of which was tied the thick line which held the net. As the
line was pulled in, two men stood by, each drawing one side of
the net into the boat, which is the hardest work ; two others
behind placed the nets in good order ; near the pullers there
was a raan who hooked the fish and threw them into the boat.
There were sorae twenty nets tied together in fours, each net
twenty fathoms long, and two to three in depth. Eight rain
utes were passed in raising one set to the surface, and it re
quired fifty rainutes to hoist the whole number. The length
of time in hauling depends, of course, on the number of fish
caught, and on the weather. Though some cod were taken,
they were not plentiful, partial migration to sorae other
ground having taken place. We caught only a few more than
three hundred, the catch sometimes being more than double
this, and heavily loading the boats.
A consultation was now held as to where to cast anew, and
seeing others going towards a northern point our crew con
cluded to go that way also, and leave their nets there for the
night. In what direction fish will migrate is only a matter
for conjecture, and success during the season depends entirely
upon striking the right places. The wind was ahead, and our
destination was about ten miles distant; it was a hard pull,
consuming five hours in reaching the ground. The boats were
evidently too heavy for the crew to row, and they would

126 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
sometimes take advantage of or beat against the wind. Dur
ing this time the raen inspected their nets, and four, with
their drawing-lines, were replaced by new ones that had been
brought. Then we began to sound : the first trial showed no
bottom at one hundred and twenty fathoms, the length of the
sounding-line; the second, a little farther on, gave one hun
dred fathoms. All along the nets at intervals there were glass
balls, about four and a half inches in diameter, each securely
enclosed, and attached by a cord about three feet long ; these
were to keep the nets afloat, while stones at the bottom kept
the lower part downward. We flnished by casting the first
buoy, one man throwing the net while another threw the float
from the stern of the boat. When they reached the last of
the nets it was let down, with a heavy stone attached, four
buoys being arranged on the upper surface, there to remain
till the next day. At three o'clock we reached Henningsvar,
none of us having touched a mouthful of food since our start.
The fortunate ones that day were those who had lines. The
average of each of such boats was about three hundred cod
fish. In the nets two salmon had been caught — a not uncom
mon circumstance.
I was invited to spend the remainder of the day with my
new frieuds, three other boat's-crews being in the same house.
I accepted on the condition that I should partake of their reg
ular fare. The dinner was composed of a sort of porridge or
pudding made of ship-bread, liver, and fish. I put on the best
face I could, but cannot say I enjoyed the meal.
Wood is very scarce and dear, as it is brought from the
other islands or from the main-land ; they use as little as pos
sible, and mix pieces of fat with it to promote combustion.
Some of the raen treated rae to a cup of coffee, which I could
not refuse. We spoke about the prospect for the fishing sea
son now about to close; they calculated that the fishermen
would average sixty or seventy dollars each ; in sorae very fort
unate boats the men would make ninety or a hundred dollars.
The captain, or one who owns the boat, is entitled to a certain
number of fish, and those who OAvn the nets also have a share.
We talked over fishing adventures, the terrible storms often

GOING LINE-FISHING, 127
encountered, and the narrow escapes they frequently had. Two
or three years before one hundred and twenty-three raen were
droAvned in less than an hour. All spoke very kindly of ray
hostess, and exclairaed " God bless her !" I learned that in
one part of her house she had a store-room, and raany a poor
fellow went in there by the back-door. She kept flour, coffee,
sugar, bread, and many other things ; and often when the raen
could not obtain credit from her husband they came to her.
She had friends among the fishermen, and knew those who
were poor and had large families to support : many had left
that house slyly with a parcel of sugar, coffee, or bread, and
not unfrequently a little money for the wife. "She does
everything so quietly," said they, "that nobody knows any
thing about it ; but when we see some one leave her house by
the back-door, we always know that she has been doing some
good deed."
One of the beautiful characteristics of the Norwegian fish
erman or seaman who has never left his native land is his
reverence for God ; he is seldom heard to utter an oath. Dur
ing the years I have been in the country I never heard any
one of them swear, no matter how angry he may have been,
or how great the provocation. They reprove the offender
without cursing him. In this respect they are better than
their brethren of Southern Sweden, and more docile withal.
The next day I went hook-flshing, and consequently had to
take another kind of boat, and go with another set of men.
Each of these craft generally carries twenty-four lines. The
captain with whom I went was Hans Mikel Nikolaisen, from
Tennevold, in Ebestad, a place not far distant from Troms5.
He was a married man, with three children, and his eyes
glowed with happiness when he talked to me of his wife and
little ones. His boat was much smaller than the other one,
the fishing by hook being much lighter work, and the whole
crew consisted of two Sea Laplanders and three strong men.
The Lapps were easily recognized by their short reindeer cos
tumes, with hair inside, and Finland boots. The wind was
good from the very start, and we rapidly passed the light-house
on the island of Hellandso. About a thousand boats were

128 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
scattered within a few square miles, near Henningsvser, for
there were boats from other stations; after four hours we
came to the place where our lines were and lowered the sail.
Several buoys were taken into the boat, and then began the
hauling of the lines by the help of the little roller along-side.
There were four lines attached to one another, each being one
hundred fathoms long ; the hooks were four to six feet apart,
generally one hundred and twenty on each line, and at inter
vals a buoy was attached to the line to prevent it from getting
snarled, and sinking too deeply. The lines of all those who
fished by hook contained on an average, per boat, about twenty-
four hundred fathoms in all. An immense number of these
lines are cast into the sea every day with the nets, occupying
the waters for miles. We had not pulled in over two hundred
fathoms of our own when Ave found they had drifted into a net,
and that some of our hooks had caught it — an awkward yet
common accident — but we were able to free the hooks Avithout
much trouble. We continued to haul in the fish, which were
very abundant. Once again a part of our line became entan
gled, this time with three or four belonging to other fisher
men, and great care was necessary to separate them. The men
know well their own lines, as, for greater certainty, each one
is marked frora place to place with the letter of the district
and the nuraber of the boat. The work was hard and tedious,
for the tides and currents had done considerable tAvisting for
several different fishermen. After the lines had been sep
arated they were thrown back into the water Avith the fish
attached to them. The end of our third one came to the sur
face, and we saw that it had been cut by a knife, and the rest
lost with all its fish, probably about seventy-five. Soraetimes,
when too badly mixed up, lines have to be cut arid hauled into
the boat ; in that case the men bring them ashore, and give
the fish found on thera to the owner, Avho is always known by
the marks on his tackle. We then went to the other buoys,
and battled in another line, capturing iu all three hundred and
seventy-three large codfish.
After our fishing was over we went to several of the boats
near us, and made inquiries about our lost line. In one or tAvo

THE FISHING SETTLEMENT OF STAMSUND, 129
cases, as we came along-side of the boats, my raen looked sus
piciously into them. Sometimes, when they find lines en
tangled in their nets, they draw everything on board, being
obliged to do so to separate them, and return the fish. Some
of the boats had parts of lines not belonging to them, which
they intended to take ashore. When the fish are stolen the
tackle is thrown away, but this very seldom happens. Evi
dently many of the crews mistrusted each other, and I was told
that some fishermen would take fish that did not belong to
them simply by way of retaliation, thinking that others who
had found their lines had done the same. Of course it is very
difficult to prove any theft of this kind ; but, when caught, the
culprits are severely punished by the judges. We cast out
again, our hooks being baited with young herrings cut in two.
There was a general complaint this year of the scarcity and
dearness of the bait. There are raen whose only business is
to catch bait and sell it to the fishermen ; ray host had a small
stearaer eraployed for this purpose during the fishing-season.
When the fishing-ground is near the line fisherraen return to
the shore and go again, and so also do those with nets.
Another sail, two hours long, from Henningsvser, brought
us to Stamsund. The dark rocky hills which tower over the
little fishing settlement give it a gloomy appearance, though
there are several farms on the island. The harbor is made
perfect by many small islands near the shore, araong which
boats wind their way. Here the fishing-boats were fcAV, for
raost of the fish on the banks near the islands had raigrated,
and they seldom return the same season ; only a few sraall
vessels were completing their cargoes before leaving. I noted
a comfortable house, owned by the leading merchant of the
place, used also as an inn. Several buildings were supported
partly on piles near the water's edge, and dwellings built of
logs were scattered here and there between the rocks at the
foot of the hills, and near the boulder raasses that have been
torn from the side. Vessels and boats were at anchor in the
narrow basin, or among the islands, and the place presented a
far wilder aspect than Henningsvaer. There were birch-trees
on the island, and they are said to be coramon in one of the
VOL. II. K

130 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
valleys. Near the settlement by the sea is a low dale with
tAvo or three farms.
My object in coraing to Stamsund was to visit Herr M  ,
a celebrated manufacturer of cod-liver oil which enjoys such
great and well-deserved reputation in the United States. The
room where the oil is made A\'as not very large, but everything
was extremely clean. Several men were engaged in separat
ing the good livers from the bad ; all were fresh from fish
caught that day. The fat and healthy livers were whitish,
while the diseased ones were greenish, and the lean ones red.
I was surprised to see the number of diseased and lean livers.
The season for the best ones would soon be over, and it hap
pens that the cod arrive at Lofoden when their livers are in
the finest condition. The raen were very particular in select
ing the choicest kinds. After they had been assorted they
Avere put into a large tank, washed thoroughly in Avarm water,
and then placed over an open wire net to let the water drip
away. I noticed that extreme care was taken in all stages of
the preparation of the oil. There were five large, high, round
ed kettles or vessels, surrounded by steam at a pressure never
exceeding five pounds. By this process the livers boil very
slowly for eight hours, after which the oil is filtered twice
through cotton, and put in large tin vessels tightly soldered.
The product was clear and white, and appeared to me per
fectly pure ; but the process does not end here. The oil is
shipped to Christiania, where it undergoes chemical treatment
which frees it from the microscopic globules of blood, and
frora stearine ; it is then filtered through paper, and is ready
for the market. Some sort of brown oil is made frora most of
the residue, and what is left after this is manufactured into
a fertilizer, said to be very rich. The process has nothing of
the repulsiveness of the method by Avhich broAvn oil is usually
made, namely, by letting the livers rot, skimming the oil, and
afterwards boiling it.
I wished very much to visit the most southern of the islands,
the inhabitants of which are said to be very primitive ; but
steamers touch there but two or three times a year, and then
only during the fishing -season, so I preferred returning to

SUNDAY AT HENNINGSVMR. 131
Henningsvser ; for, though the weather had every appearance
of reraaining fair, the falling of the barometer indicated that
a change was at hand. I busied myself in taking views of the
Lofoden, and of the fishing-quarters. One evening I witnessed
one of the grandest displays of the aurora borealis that I ever
saw in the North ; the corona was superb, and its brilliant red
crown seemed to hang ovei; these islands.
There is a church at Henningsvaer, and, during the short
fishing-season, a resident clergyman. On Saturday no nets or
lines are put out, the law not allowing sufficient time in which
to return to and raise them on Sunday. Buying and selling
cease ; the captains come ashore ; the fishermen shave thera
selves and put on their best clothes ; and all feel that a day
of rest has corae.
Sunday, April 6th, the last service of the season took place
on the island of Henningsvser. The church was crowded Avith
over three thousand fishermen, every one with his Church-ser
vice book. None Avore amulets or pictures, for they trusted
first in God and then in themselves in the hour of danger.
The clergyraan gave a raost impressive sermon. It was to be
the last of the season, and the congregation would soon be
scattered ; and when it returned in another year, he said, some
then present might be missing. With tears flowing down
his cheeks, showing the depth of his feeling (for he was a
thoroughly good man, with no sham about him), he told them
that after this life there was another; that soon death might
come, and they must think of their souls, putting their trust
in the Lord Jesus Christ. He finished with an earnest ex
hortation to love God, to hate sin, and follow after righteous
ness : it brought tears to many eyes, and rnade every one
thoughtful as he went away.
It was really beautiful to see so many men, bred among
the rocks of the North amidst storms and privations, corae
to pay homage to the Creator. I doubt very much if such a
sight could be seen in any other Christian country. There
was not a fisherman on Henningsvser in his cabin on that day,
unless detained by sickness. In the afternoon the room of the
worthy pastor, who, by -the -way, was a very handsome man,
K 2

132 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
was crowded with fishermen, who came to say good-bye, to
thank him for his teachings, or to make some religious inqui
ries. I also made hira a visit, and admired his urbanity to
these hardy sons of the sea; he was, indeed, a gentleman.
During our conversation he told rae that he had sold that sea
son 15 large Bibles, at 4 marks ; 15 Testaments, at 20 skill
ings ; and 150 books of Psalms, at 6 skillings.* Sunday was
the day on which they generally bought them, and A?illingly,
with their hard earnings. They are too proud to ask for one
as a gift, but now and then, in a delicate way, the good cler
gyraan would say to a raan with a very large family, or who
had had an unsuccessful fishing season, " 1 want you to give
this Bible, Testament, or hymn-book to your Avife, as a Httle
remembrance from me."
The afternoon was passed in social enjoyment ; neighbors
visited each other, and talked of home. The younger folks
paid their attentions to the maids of Herr D  , and to two
others in the neighboring houses. Women Avere at a great
premium, for these few were all — the fishermen not having
brought wives or daughters ; so the girls had many admirers
on Saturday evening and Sunday afternoon ; lads, wherever
there was an opportunity, would pass before the houses to catch
a glimpse of the fair ones; if so fortunate as to meet one, they
would address their corapliraents to her and try to make love,
for which there was little chance, as some person on the watch
for a favorable time would be sure to interrupt. Nature, in
this respect, is the same all the world over.
The fisherman's life is arduous. At dawn of day he goes
out, and, when he has to row against a head-wind, often comes
back tired and weary. On their return, after the first meal,
all are very busy outside ; those who do not clean and prepare
the fish cut bait for the lines, replace the lost tackle, and re
pair the nets.
The barometer was not mistaken, for the threatened storm
came on the 8th, with a very high wind, at times alraost a hur-

* The new coinage at that time was not in use — .A marks, or 120 skillings, made
one dollar.

MILD CLIMATE OF THE LOFODEN. 133
ricane. No boat was allowed to leave. Dark clouds gathered
in the north-west, and violent squalls drove thera overhead ;
snow fell heavily, and after awhile the land was covered with
a thick white raantle to the sea. I went to the highest point
of Henningsvser, where I could see the angry Avaves, as they
struck against the rocky cliffs, breaking in f oaraing spray along
the shore, and then dashing themselves into a thousand atoms,
apparently harmless ; but every billow that struck against that
shore was stronger than the rock, and left its mark behind.
On the point of Hellands5 the light-house stood unharraed, for
the surf could not reach it ; and, when night carae, its bright
light shone like a star over the horizon. Everything in the
port was still ; the sea there was smooth ; the wind blew over
the masts of the vessels, and no one would have dreamed, in
looking on that quiet narrow channel between Henningsvser
and Hellandso, that outside a tempest was sweeping over a
heaving sea. Part of the channel, however, is not well pro
tected against a south wind. At Easter the gale was still un
abated, and on the following Sunday it raged with a fury that
made one feel thankful to be on land.
The climate in these islands is subject to great variations ;
violent storms are succeeded by very fine weather, and still,
clear days. The temperature was remarkable for this season of
the year, being milder than on the main-land. On the 31st of
March the snow at the foot of the hills on the latter extended
to the sea, while in the Lofoden it was several hundred feet
above. On the 1st of April, on deck, the mercury stood at
52° while we traversed the Raftsund ; in 1871, in the same re
gion, at the end of July, the mercury stood at 40°, and 43° at
the warmest time of the day, with the wind blowing from the
north-east. In sorae of the sheltered nooks at the base of the
raountains at Stamsund, where the stones reflected the heat of
the sun's rays, daisies blossomed on the 7th of April ; and I
was assured that the year previous sorae were in bloom at
the end of February. For the last six days the thermometer
ranged in Henningsvser from 42° to 45°, and one day reached
52° in the shade, without any influence whatever from the
sun's rays ; and on the 7th of April, at Stamsund, the lowest

134 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
point was from 38° to 40°. This was the finest and warmest
weather they had had that year.
The steamer Nordstjernen (Star of the North) had arrived
in the midst of a very tempestuous time, and lay quietly at
anchor outside, protected by the mountains there. The sea
was smooth, though the wind swept between the islands Avith
great force ; but there was no space for it to rise. For four
days no one was allowed to go fishing. The catches even be
fore had been small, and the fishermen who were going north
had already left by hundreds, many of them intending to stop
for Easter at Troraso. Hard, indeed, would be their journey
in their little open boats — gales and snow-storms, rain and
sleet, cold and wet these hardy sons of Norway must encoun
ter ; but the sea is their element, and the wind the music they
love. They are still the true descendants of the Vikings.
The steamer waited for the storm to raoderate ; the gale
was at its height on Friday and Saturday, 11th and 12th. I
left the Lofoden on the 13th of April, bidding farewell to
those who had been so good and kind to me. The deck of
the vessel was literally packed with fishermen, and their heavy
wooden chests were piled everywhere ; so also Avere numerous
nets and lines, and cooking utensils. Every one was good-nat
ured — ^laughing, talking, and looking forward to the Finmar
ken fisheries. They were going to sleep wherever they could
on deck, for hardly any of them had taken second-class tickets ;
they wanted to save their money, and were satisfied Avith third-
class. In a few days the Lofoden would be entirely deserted
— boats and fishermen gone — and on the shores of many an
island not one would be left to watch the sea.

THE GULF-STREAM. 135

CHAPTER X.
Climate of Scandinavia. — The Gulf-stream. — Temperature of the Sea. — Summer
Heat. — A Temperate Strip of Land. — Prevalent Winds. — Table Showing the
Temperature beyond the Arctic Circle. — Highest Temperature on the Norwegian
Coast. — The Coldest and Warmest Mouths. — Number of Rainy and Snowy Days.
— Foggy Days. — Thunder-storms. — Temperature of Northern and Southern Swe
den. — Temperature of the Wells. — Fall of Rain in Sweden. — General Remarks
on the Temperature between Haparanda, Stockholm, Petersburg, Copenhagen,
Christiansund, Yarmouth, and Valentia.
In the first volume we have spoken of the vegetation of
Scandinavia. We will now, before proceeding farther, give a
general idea of the cliraate, which is remarkable, especially in
the far North, when corapared with that of other lands in the
sarae latitude. In countries like Norway and Sweden, which
reach frora lat. 55° 20' to North Cape, 71° 10' — an extent as
great as that from the most northern part of the State of
Maine to Florida — one raust, of course, find a great diversity
of cliraate and vegetation. The boundaries include more ter
ritory than those of an}' other country in Europe except Rus
sia, its total area amounting to 294,000 English square railes.
An oblique line frora Northern Germany through France
and Spain would equal the length of the Scandinavian pen
insula, but its greatest width is not raore than seven hundred
railes. The Gulf- stream sweeps along the Norwegian coast and
prevents the formation of ice ; only the upper extreraity of
the fjords are frozen in winter, this being due to the lesser
density and greater freshness of the water frorn incoraing
streams. On the two following pages are the maps showing
the temperature of the sea between Norway, Sweden, Scot
land, and Iceland. The sea is warmer than the air frora Sep
tember to May, the reverse being true from June until the

136

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

SBA-TEMPEEATUKE IN DEOEMBEE, JAJJUAEY, AND FEBECAKV.
end of August. The Gulf- stream is warmest in summer in the
south, the mean temperature of the water during the months
of June, July, and August averaging, on the Skager Rack, 62° ;
in some places I have found it 75° near the shore. It flows

i;i:.^-TKMl*EK.VTlIEb IN AlAKOU, Al'KlL, AND MAY.

CHARTS OF SEA-TEMPERATURE.

137

SEA-TEMPEEATUEE IN JUNE, JULY, AJSD AUGUST.
more rapidly as it proceeds northward, and is warraest on the
coast of Norway, between Lindesnses and Lyster, in lat. 57° 59'
and 58° 6', where the mean temperature is 48° or 49°, falling
gradually to 46° or 45° as it reaches North Cape, and thence

SEA-TEMPEEATURE IN 6EPTEMBEE, OCTOBER, AND NOVE.MBEK,

138 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
losing its heat farther east. The temperature of the sea is
at its maximum in August, and miniraura in February — both,
therefore, coraing later than the extreraes of the air temper
ature : the yearly variation in the former is greatest on the
southern coast of Norway, and smallest farther out where the
sea is deeper. It is especially in winter that the influence of
the Gulf-stream is felt. In suraraer the sun's heat regulates
the motions of the atmosphere ; the effect of this is greater
inland than on the coast, thus causing a variation of pressure
and northward air-currents.
During the autumn the warmth of the sea diminishes : at
North Cape in Septeraber and October, and Noveraber being
about 43°. Later the reverse is the case; the teraperature
of the sea on the Skager Rack is about that of the air, 38°;
and the Christiania and some other fjords grow gradually
warmer as the current flows northward to Helliso, lat. 60° 45',
attaining there a mean temperature of 42° to 43°. At North
Cape the water is the coldest in March and April, its mean
temperature being 48°.
The absolute temperature variation of the air in inner Fin
marken and South-east Norway is 126° ; at Finmarken fjords,
on Dovre, and in Christiania, 108° ; on the Finmarken coast,
Nordland fjords, the north side of Dovre, along the Lange
fjelds and mouth of Christiania fjord, 90° ; on the coast from
Tromso to Christiansund, and Bergen to Lindesnses, 40° ; on
the whole west coast, 54°. The number of days having a daily
mean below 32° follow the same course.
On a narrow strip of the coast from Folden fjord to Lindes-
nses the mean daily temperature never sinks below the freez
ing-point. In Central Scandinavia the daily temperature is be-
Ibw zero daring more than seven months ; thence this num
ber decreases, so that at the Bothnia and on the Finmark coast
it is six months; at Vester^len, along the Nordland coast,
Trondhjem, in inner Sogne, at Christiania, and Stockholm,
four months ; and, finally, at the outer Trondhjem fjord,
Romsdal fjord, Sogne, Hardanger, and Arendal, two months.
This shows the warming influence of the sea.
On the west Coast, in Northern Norway, and at the Chris-

MEAN TEMPERATURE BEYOND THE ARCTIC CIRCLE. 139

tiania fjord, southerly to south-westerly winds are prevalent.
In the whole country to the south-west the prevailing breezes
are from the south, although easterly winds occasionally oc
cur. The average warmth generally lessens as one gets far
ther north, but in Norway the heat decreases most towards the
east ; thus, on the west coast, from Stadt to Lyster, the yearly
average is 45°, which in Sweden is found only as far north as
Gothenburg and Wexio.
The contrast between the inland and coast climate is most
apparent when observing the yearly variation of temperature
in different places. Though the sumraers in the far North are
short, there are days when the heat is greater than that of the
country farther to the south.

THE RESULT OP TEN TEARS'

OBSERVATIONS

OF TEMPERATURE BEYOND

THE AKCTIC CIRCLE.

Lati
tude.

1

1

t

>.

g
•-3

•-3

<

1

o

>

s

Mean
ofthe Year.

Deg. Min.
Deg.
Deg,
Deg.
neg.
D.g.
Deg.
D.g.
Deg.
Deg.
Deg,
Deg,
Deg.
Deg.
Vardo 
70 22
18
20
23
29
35
41
47
48
41
29
26
21
32
Hammerfest . .
70 40
23
22
26
30
37
46
53
51
46
36
31
24
36
Kafjord 
69 57
18
15
20
29
39
48
54
54
45
39
26
22
34
Tromso 
69 39
22
21
25
31
38
48
49
50
45
37
28
23
35
Bodo 
67 17
26
37
29
30
41
60
54
54
49
41
31
28
39
The heat in the sun is far greater in proportion to the shade
than in any other country, sometimes being twice as rauch.
The days of the year when the temperature is the same be
yond the arctic circle are about as follows :
Vardo  April 27
Hammerfest  May 6
Kafjord  April 25
Tromso  .May 2
Bodo  May 3
October 27
October 15
October 12
November 1
October 22
The greater heat in summer and the greater cold in winter
are both found inland, while the coast has milder winters and
cooler summers. The smallest variation on the Scandinavian
peninsula, 12°, is observed frora Stadt to Hiteren and Lofoden.
On the coast of Norway the highest teraperature in the sum
mer may reach 77° to 80°, while a short distance inland it is
82° to 86° ; at Christiania, 88° ; and even on the top of Dovre,
140 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
2098 feet above the sea, 84°. Near the Justedalsbraeen, in
winter, the climate is pretty mild, in consequence of the large
rainfall caused by the glacier, which comes down in the shape
of snow. In the far North the cold reaches 40° to 45° below
zero, and in Central Sweden sometimes 40°.
The coldest days occur generally between the middle of
January and the middle of February, and earlier in the east
than the west ; the hottest weather is between the middle of
July and the middle of August. The part of the country
having the greatest rain and snow fall is from Sogne fjord to
Stadt, where the yearly fall is 72 inches, while Christiania has
only 20 and Dovre about 13 inches. On the coast the great
est fall occurs in autumn — in Christiania, in August. The
number of days Avith rain or snow is in Dovre only 90 ; on
the coast of Skager Rack, 100 ; in Bodo, Tromso, and Vardo,
about 120; Christiania, Romsdal, and the Helgoland coast,
140 ; Bergen and fjords to the north, and VesterElen, 160 ;
and Lofoden, 180 days in the year: while inland it rains or
snows every fourth day, it does so at Lofoden every other
day; in Vardo it rains 54 days, and snows 71; in Dovre there
are 42 rainy and 48 snowy days; in Christiania there are
twice as many rainy days as those in which snow falls ; in
Bergen, five tiraes ; and in Lofoden, one and a half times as
many. Finmarken is generally free from snow in summer.
Vardo and Bodo in July and August have no falls of snow,
but it has been known to fall in July. In Lofoden snow
has fallen three or four times in July within ten years. In
Dovre and Vardo it falls as frequently in May as in October ;
in other places this happens only in April and November;
and on the west coast only in March. The fall of snow varies
each year considerably. I have known more to fall in one
week in my trip northward than during the rest of the winter,
and found much less in the Dovre fjelds in January than in
September of the previous year. Measurement of its depth
is quite difficult, being greatly affected by the temperature ;
for, though much in quantity, it is often light and spongy ;
while at other times, though less in bulk, it is dry and com
pact, and affords excellent sleighing.

DURATION OF ICE ON THE LAKES. 141

The number of foggy days is, at Vardo, 18 ; Lofoden, 13 ;
Christiansund, 7; Dovre, 10 ; Alesund, Skudenses, Mandal, and
Sandosund, 20 ; Bergen, 40 ; and Christiania, 62. A marked
yearly peculiarity must be noted here. In the east, from Lin-
desnses to Christiania, most foggy days occur in winter; on
the west coast, on the contrary, alraost exclusively in summer ;
in Bergen they are divided pretty evenly the year round, but
occur most often in June.
Thunder-storms are rare, occurring on the west coast only
in winter, and after strong westerly winds, generally near the
sea ; but in South-eastern Norway they take place only in sura
raer, and as often inland as near the coast. Beyond the polar
circle they are seldom noted. I learned that snow and hail,
which generally accompany the thunder-showers, do very lit
tle damage, and that the lightning rarely strikes.
In Sweden the mean temperature for the year in the far
North is 34°, while in the South it is from 44° to 46°. At
Stockholm it is 41° to 43°. The wells, which give a pretty ac
curate idea of the earth's teraperature, show about the same
figures ; in Central Sweden they have a yearly average of
about 43° ; while in the north they are often found covered
with ice all suraraer, and swaraps are frozen hard to a depth
of five to six feet. Lakes are ice-bound in the south for about
115 days, in the central part 150, and in the north 230. The
annual fall of rain is less than in Norway, and is, as a general
rule, pretty evenly distributed throughout the country. On
the west coast it is about 21 inches ; in the interior, in the cen
tral part, 16 ; on the south-east coast 13 ; and in the north 12.
In the southern part of Sweden the winter climate is quite
even, and might be compared with that of parts of Western
and Northern New York, but in the summer the nights are
much cooler than in the United States, and the heat of the sun
is not so powerful ; consequently Indian-corn do.es not ripen.
From the meteorological observations noted down in the
daily records (1879) — for Haparanda, Stockholm, St. Peters
burg, Copenhagen, Christiansund (NorAvay), Yarmouth, and
Valentia (Spain) — I note the following remarkable facts : in
June, 1879, the warmest average weather for the month was

142 THE. LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
experienced in these places in the following order: first at
Stockholm, then Copenhagen, St. Petersburg, Yarmouth, Va
lentia, Haparanda, and Christiansund. The hottest day, how
ever, was in Haparanda, on the 5th of June, 66°. In July
the latter place had the highest mean temperature of the
month, though I have only the records from the 1st to the
15th ; it had also the highest mean of a day, 68°. In August,
Stockholm, Christiansund, and Copenhagen had the highest
temperature, being 62° — Valentia, St. Petersburg, and Hapa
randa being the lowest. In September, Copenhagen, Yar
mouth, and Valentia were the warmest. For October, 1878,
I have only the data of the last half of the month : Haparanda
was the coldest, then Stockholm ; next followed Copenhagen,
then Valentia, Yarmouth coming fifth in the scale. In Janu
ary of that year St. Petersburg, Haparanda, and Copenhagen
were the coldest ; Valentia and Yarmouth the warmest. As
a general rule, Haparanda is the coldest locality during the
winter.

SCENERY OF THE COAST. 143

CHAPTER XL
NORDLAND, TROMSO, AND FINMARKEN PROA'INCES.
The three Northern Provinces of Norway. — The Wildest Scenery on the Coast. —
Population. — Products of the Soil. — Occupation of the People. — Fishing. — Great
Number of Fishermen. — Homes on the Coast. — Steamers everywhere. — Impor
tance of the Cod-fisheries. — Number of Cod caught. — The Herring-fisheries.—
Number of Men employed. — Spring Fisheries. — Migration of the Herring. — How
Herring are caught. — Immense Catch of Herring. — Summer Fisheries. — Number
of Herring caught. — The Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla Fisheries. — A Sea-faring
People. — ^Norwegian and Swedish Mercantile Navy.
Norwegian Nordland includes that part of the countiy
which extends from about lat. 65° to 70° on the coast, and
comprises the old province known under the name of Plaloga-
land, and which is now divided into Nordland and Tromso
provinces, while Finmarken is farther north. The scenery on
the shores is the wildest on the coast of NorAvay, and culmi
nates in its savage and weird grandeur between the cities of
Bodo and Tromso; there the loftiest mountains are found;
the highest being between the Lyngen and Ulfs fjords, with an
altitude of 6500 feet, and present the characteristics of the
Alps. Glaciers and snow-clad peaks are seen from the sea.
The abrupt sides of these elevations often cause landslides and
avalanches of snow. At the bases of these wild, abrupt, and
jagged slopes are sometimes rich wooded land and luxuriant
pastures, with here and there a driving-road, and sometimes
wild bridle-paths, leading from one fjord to another.
Sailing along that apparently forsaken coast, noting the tow
ering dreary mountains in the background, and remembering
how short are the summers and long and stormy the winters,
one can hardly believe that fine agricultural land and extended
forests are to be found there. In Nordland the population
is about 100,000, of whom 7000 are fishermen, and 15,000

144 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
farmers. The number of horses is 7500 ; of cattle, 55,000 ; of
sheep, 108,000 ; of goats, 24,000 ; of swine, 5433. Nordland
produces 350,000 bushels of grain, and 1,100,000 bushels of
potatoes. In the province of Tromso there are about 53,000
inhabitants, among whom are over 5000 fishermen, and as
many farmers. There are over 26,500 head of cattle, 58,000
sheep, 4500 horses, 1800 pigs, and 10,000 goats. An average
of 120,000 bushels of grain and 400,000 bushels of potatoes are
raised yearly. This part of the country was settled by the
Vikings, several of the chiefs being mentioned in the sagas.
There are also several old churches of stone, among which are
those of Ibestad and Trondenses.
Contiguous to Tromso lies Finmarken, the most northern
province of Norway. The Arctic Sea washes its rocky shores
on three sides ; its territory has an extent of coast, not includ
ing the fjords, of about 350 railes, and covers an area of 2600
square miles, or the seventh part of the territory of Norway.
Finmarken proper comraences at about lat. 70°, at a point be
tween Kvaeiiangen and Alten fjords, and extends along the
coast to the Russian boundary by Jakob River. Its most
southern point inland lies near the mountain Beldovado, while
the most northerly is North Cape. A straight line from Bel
dovado to North Cape measures about 190 miles. In compari
son with the country farther south Finmarken is a low land,
as its greatest area lies less than 1000 feet above the sea.
The highest mountains are the Gaiser range, reaching about
3000 feet, but they are entirely without snow in summer. In
the interior of this province bare rocks are not very common,
being generally covered by glacial gravel ; while in the river-
bottoms nearest to the sea fine sand is quite prevalent. In the
Tana, Alten, Laxe, and Eiby rivers gold is found, though not
in paying quantities. Five large fjords wind their way far
inland — the Alten, the Porsanger, the Laxe, the Tana, and the
Varanger — and between each two lies a huge stretch of rocky
land, forming peninsulas, upon Avhich the Laplander and their
reindeer roam. On the Alten and Laxe rivers there are quite
considerable deltas, with clay beds rich in phosphoric acid, mak
ing them very fertile for the groAvth of grass.

STATISTICS OF POPULATION. 145
Islands dot the sea, in many places protecting the coast,
which appears from a distance to belong to a land of desola
tion entirely uninhabited. On the boundary between Tromso
and Finmarken is the Jokel glacier, the only one in Scandina
via which, like those found in Greenland, sheds pieces. The
Tana is the largest river, and is navigable by boats as far as
Ulvefos, 210 railes frora the sea ; its longest tributary is the
Karasjoki. The Alten and Pasvig rivers are considerable wa
ters, the latter rising in Enare Lake. The lakes north of the
Gaiser raountains empty into the Porsanger fjord through the
Laxe River.
This bleak province has nearly 24,000 inhabitants, which
number includes 6700 fishermen and 2800 farmers. There are
over 9000 head of cattle, 20,000 sheep, 2500 goats, and 400
pigs. Not much grain is raised, but over 30,000 bushels of
potatoes. In these two raost northerly provinces twenty-
eight per cent, of the population are pure Lapps and Finns.
Of Lapps proper there are in Norway 17,178 ; of Finlanders,
7637 ; of Lapp and Finnish half-breeds, 909 ; raixed Norwe
gians, Finns, and Lapps, 2961, araong whom the Nomads
are only 1577 ; the merchants are alraost always Norwegians.
The yearly average of raarriages according to population
was in Finmarken seven and six -tenths for every thousand
inhabitants; in Tromso, six and one-fifth. The people inter
marry closely, and the raixed offspring of the three nation
alities form an excellent race. The inhabitants of the Lyngen,
Alten, and Skjservo parishes are better educated, and have
finer dwellings.
Fishing is the chief occupation of the inhabitants : many of
the farms are owned by fishermen. Wherever there is a good
harbor one is sure to see some houses, or a fishing-village con
sisting of several families who have settled together. Each
merchant owns several horaes for fishermen, resembling those
of Lofoden ; every raan pays one dollar for the season, and
when four or five merchants are settled together there is quite
a village. Sometimes two or three families dwell in one place
all the year round : they have a few cows, goats, or sheep, which
feed chiefly on the heads of tish,Avhich are cooked for them.
VOL. II. L

146 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
In other places the settlement consists of a single merchant's
family, with his own men and servants ; the warehouse stands
on piles by the sea, and the effect is that of a little hamlet.
The larger steamers stop during the fishing season at many
such places, and there are smaller ones of lighter draught
which ply among the fjords and land at the various establish
ments. The cod-fisheries are of the utmost iraportance to Norway ;
the people live, and even get rich, by thera. There are three
varieties of the common species, namely, the sea cod {Gadus
morrhua), the fjord cod {Gadus virens), and the ling {Molva
vulgaris), also of the cod family ; the last two are often very
large, frequently attaining a length of six feet. In Tromso
the number caught averages 5,000,000, and in Finmarken
12,000,000 ; including the Lofoden fisheries, the catch aver
ages about 38,000,000 or 40,000,000 ; on the whole Norwegian
coast, 50,000,000 : these figures are for the season. A great
deal of brown cod-liver oil is made.
Next in importance are the herring fisheries. The herring
{Clnjt/pea harengus) is plentiful all along the Norwegian coast,
but only on that part lying between Lindesnses and Lofoden
is it the object of any extended fishing. As far back as his
tory goes, or from about the ninth century, these fisheries have
been of great A'alue ; but they have also been subject to great
er variations than the cod-fisheries, and only at a comparative
ly later period did they yield any proper article of trade. In
1416 a Hollander, Beuckel, devised the art of salting the her
ring, and, when soon afterwards the knowledge reached Nor
way, this industry at once attained great prominence. They
are divided into two principal classes : the spring or large
herring -fisheries, which take place in the beginning of the
year, when the herring, in immense shoals, go inshore to shed
their roes, and the summer and autumn fisheries, at Avhich
time the fish is smaller, when t\iej run in near land to feed
on the enormous raasses of Copepoda (very small craAvfish),
Armelida, and Mollusca, Avhich are plentiful at that time of
the year on certain parts of the coast.
The spring fisheries extend f i-om latitude 57° 59' to 60° 25' ;

THE HERRING-FISHERY. 147
the herring rarely goes east of Lindesnses, and but seldom
north of Stadt. The time and places of their arrival are very
irregular, but usually their season is from January till March.
At the same tirae, also, occurs the fishery for large herring,
but generally only on the Nordland coast and by Lofoden.
The summer herring-fisheiy is still more uncertain, and occurs
at different dates here and there along the coast from Lofoden
to the southward ; it very rauch depends on the whereabouts
of the food sought by the fish. In this season the herring
has, as said, no roe or milt, but fat, and is therefore called
fat herring : it is also smaller than the spring herring.
The different naraes and sizes of the herring depend, ac
cording to Professor G. O. Tars, on their various ages ; the
largest, the " storsild," being six years old. The irregularity
in the time of the arrival of the herring, and its periodical dis
appearance from long stretches of the coast, are hardly caused
by any decrease in the mass of fish, as the number caught
by man is insignificant in comparison with what is eaten by
other enemies of the fish. ¦ There is very little probabilitj'^^
of its having taken to other runs or sought another coast,
but it is more likely that in summer it has found its food
farther out at sea, and about the shedding period has not had
time to get inshore, and therefore has been obliged to shed
its roe on the raore distant banks (where the fish has been
seen lately) Avhen it did not appear on the west coast at the
usual tirae.
The herring is caught with nets, the raeshes of which are
about an inch in diaraeter. These nets are 60 to 75 feet long
and 12 feet deep, and are kept at a proper depth by stones and
fioats, generally of cork. These nets are tied together, set at
night, and taken up in the morning. A series of three yields
ten, twelve, and soraetimes as high as twenty barrels of her
ring, but the average catch is about six barrels. Each boat
carries five to eight series, or fifteen to twenty-four nets. The
crew consists of four or five men and boys.
Another mode of catching the herring is with a seine about
7^50 feet in length and from 90 to 120 feet in depth, which is
used to enclose the immense shoals. Several small boats and
L 2

148 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
a larger vessel, in which the men lodge — generally twenty-
five to thirty — form a seine gang. The foreman having
charge of the work, and often owning the whole or part of
the equipment, is called the seine boss. The complete fishing
outfit costs from 6000 to 8000 kronor. The work is done in
the following raanner : when the herring comes inshore, in
a bay or sound, the seine is drawn around the mass of fish,
whereby a so-called herring-lock (sildelas) is formed. The ap
proach of the herring is generally indicated by the large fish
or birds following the shoals, or in the night by a lead and
line, with which a trained fisherman can feel if they have
arrived in suflBcient numbers. The catch depends, in a great
degree, on the skill of the seine boss. When two or more
seine gangs have worked at raaking the lock, the catch belongs
to that gang which first gets doAvn its seines. Disputes are
settled iraraediately by the opsynsmand. When the herring
is locked, the raen hurry to empty the enclosure by means
of a smaller seine or drag-net, which is draAvn towards the
shore, where the fish are taken up with hand-nets and emptied
into the boats, which, after being filled, are sent out, and the
fish sold to owners of trading-vessels. It is by no means rare
that several thousand barrels are enclosed Avithin the seines,
and it has happened that 20,000 to 30,000 barrels have been
taken in a single catch, the value of which is very considera
ble. Soraetiraes, however, the seines are torn to pieces when
bad Aveather occurs before they are emptied.
Part of the fisheries have of late been managed by vessels
of 40 to 60 tons, each carrying four to five boats'-crews, and
accompanying the latter over whatever course the fish may
take. The spring fishery is often attended by risks, though
perhaps not so ranch so as that for the cod, and is generally
more uncertain than the latter. Many a time the fishermen
lay-to and consume their provisions, Avaiting in vain for the
herring, and finally have to go home empty-handed, while
at times the fishing is so rich that small fortunes are made.
The fish are usually sold immediately to merchants, who, with
their vessels, are always lying in wait for the fishermen ; and
as soon as these little vessels, holding from 400 to 500 bar-

THE SUMMER FISHERIES. 149
rels, are full, they repair at once to the salting establishments,
erected either in the towns or near the best fishing-grounds.
Here the fish are gilled, which is done by making a cut with
a sharp knife over the throat of the herring, Avhereupon the
windpipe and entrails are drawn out with a quick motion, and
a little blood escapes. This process is usually done by women.
The fish are then packed between layers of salt, in barrels
which hold about 480 : for a barrel, one-quarter barrel of salt
is used. Two skilled gillers can clean and fill thirty barrels a
day. Later, the herrings are sorted and repacked.
The summer fisheries, or those for fat herring, begin shortly
after the close of the spring fisheries; but the best herring
appear in August and September ; the fish are then caught
partly by nets and partly with seines. Those taken by the
latter are left enclosed a couple of days before being removed,
so as to allow them to get rid of their food. As the sum
mer herrings are smaller, the nets and seines have smaller
meshes, generally three-quarters of an inch in diameter. The
nets are 90 feet long and 24 feet deep, and six nets are tied
together. When using the seines, the fishermen have to pay
the owners of the adjoining coast a percentage of their catch
for the right of drawing to the shore, and also have to in
demnify such owners for any damage done to their crops.
This percentage in the Bergen provinces is six per cent, of the
catch — in all other places three per cent.
The aggregate number of barrels of herring caught an
nually is 1,312,000— it has reached as high as 1,800,000 ; of
sprats {Olupea sprattus — brisling), 342,000 ; the number of
mackerel caught is about 5,000,000. The average value of the
catch is : cod, $5,000,000 ; herring, $3,503,000 ; other fisheries,
$193,000 ; total, $8,696,000.
To Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla are sent yearly about 30
vessels for seal-fishing, with 268 men, the value of the catch
being 44,778 specie dollars; for seal-catching at Jan Mayen
Land were sent 15 vessels with 684 men, the value of the catch
being 184,000 specie dollars: 1,200,000 lobsters were exported
alive to England, and also 140 tons of salmon on ice. The
number of seals caught was 63,700 ; and of whales, 36.

150 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
The herring migrates, and is known to have disappeared for
years from many districts, but sometimes appears in immense
numbers on the west coast of Sweden. The herring fisheries
along the east coast are carried on by more than 3000 boats,
and in 1873 the catch was about 150,000 barrels. On the
island of Gotland 2000 people with 600 boats are engaged in
these fisheries. The Baltic herring is a smaller variety of
the coraraon kind. On the banks in the Kattegat or the
North Sea are employed vessels of 65 to 200 tons burden,
with crews of 12 to 14 men. The raackerel-fishery is carried
on along the west coast by about 1500 men with nearly 400
boats. The number of men employed in the fisheries for cod is
about 60,000, in the herring-fisheries 50,000, and then come
the mackerel-fisheries with 3000, making, with the sailors of
the raerchant marine, a grand total of nearly eight per cent.
of the whole population who live by maritime pursuits.
The Norwegians are pre-eminently a seafaring people, and
outrank every other nation in Europe in that respect. Eng
land eraploys a far greater number of seamen in her mercan
tile navy ; but raany of the crews of her ships are often chiefly
composed of men alien to her soil ; besides, many Norsemen
are found in foreign bottoms, and vessels on the great Amer
ican lakes are frequently manned by them. But it is in her
fishermen, who are the most hardy of sailors, that Norway out
strips her rival, who is popularly known as the " Mistress of
the Seas." Besides the thousands engaged in the large fish
eries, there is a numerous home population that almost sub
sists by fishing.
From the latest statistics (1877) the merchant navy con
sisted of 8064 vessels, with an aggregate carrying capacity of
1,493,041 tons : 7791 were sailing-vessels, Avith a tonnage of
1,446,172 tons, and 273 were steamers, of 46,869 tons. In that
year of commercial depression the ships earned by foreign
freights 98,444,000 kronor, or about 26,600,000 dollars. Of
this sum, 21,000,000 kronor represent the freights of the car
rying-trade between NorAvay and foreign countries; between
the United States and other countries, 25,000,000 kronor ; and

NORWEGIAN AND SWEDISH MERCANTILE NAVY. 151
last year more than 1000 Norwegian A'essels came to the port
of New York, at one time more than 250 barks being seen
lying along-side the docks.
The foreign trade was carried by
6049 sailing-vessels with a capacity of  1,371,300 tons ;
96 steamers " "  38,974 "
Only 47 vessels had a tonnage of over  1,000 "
" 1 vessel " "  1,500 "
" 2 steamers " "  1,500 "
In domestic traffic were engaged 163 steamers, only two
exceeding 500 tons, the greater number carrying between 20
and 100 tons.
Engaged in the whale and seal fishery were
15 steamers with a capacity of  3643 tons ;
55 sailing-vessels " "  2200 "
The sailing-vessels were manned by 58,911 men ; the steam
ers by 3229.
The coasting trade is open to vessels of all nationalities,
upon the same conditions as of Norway, and people are at
liberty to buy their ships anywhere.
The mercantile navy of Sweden is much smaller than that
of Norway. At the end of 1873 it consisted of 3900 A'essels
of 434,310 tons, manned by 24,750 men ; of these vessels 565,
carrying 51,590 tons, were steamers. This only included ves
sels of ten tons aud over.

152 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER XIL
Continuous Snow-storms. — Difficult Navigation. — Ports of Refuge. — Hammerfest in
Winter. — The Magero Sound.— Fishing Settlements on Magero. — Inamense Num
ber of Birds. — The Laxe Fjord.— Finkirken.-Cape Nordkyn.— Vardo.— An Old
Fort. — Reception at the Fort. — Vadso. — Religious Excitement. — The Catchmg of
Bait. — Finns in Vadso. — Long Days coming. — The Varanger Fjord. — Remark
able Vegetation and Forests. — The Norwegian and Russian Boundary. — ^Nyborg.
— An Obliging Lensmand. — No Reindeer to be had. — Lapp Houses.
The trip by steamer from the Lofoden was a continuation
of gales and snow-storms, against which our vessel Awth diffi
culty made its way. We had occasionally to cast anchor for
a few hours, both by day and by night, being unable to pro
ceed. This voyage of a day in fair weather often takes a
week in a gale. At Tromso we had to stop until a snow
storm abated. There were there several thousand fishermen,
who were waiting for safer wind in order to continue the
journey northward with their boats, or for steamers, either
to go home or to some fishing- place on the coast of Fin
marken. Many evidently were raaking up for the solitary
life they had led, and I thought the sudden increase of pop
ulation was not very conducive to the good of the place.
The lower part of the town, by the fjord, was entirely in pos
session of the new-comers, many of whom spent their money
freely, to the joy of the store-keepers and others.
At the important fishing-village of Skjaervo, which possesses
a splendid harbor — the best between Hammerfest and Tromso
¦ — we were obliged to cast anchor, on account of a violent wind
and snow-storm. Thence we steamed slowly towards the fish
ing settlement of Loppen, on the island of that name ; across
to Hasvik, on the island of Soro ; and then up the long sound
to Hammerfest. The streets of Hammerfest were filled with
snow, and the port Avith fishing -boats at anchor; these had

A DESOLATE COAST. 153
come from the south and the Lofoden, and were waiting for
the storm to abate so that they might continue their voyage
along the coast. The streets were crowded with idle fisher
men and Sea Laplanders, in their dresses of reindeer skins.
They did not know what to do with themselves while waiting
for a change.
The thermometer seldom falls to 20° below zero ; even in
the depth of winter it stands for consecutive days several
degrees above freezing-point. The discharge of a gun on
board the steamer at midnight notified our passengers to go
on board ; the stars were shining ; it was the first clear weath
er for several weeks here, and the tenth day of an almost con
tinuous snow-storm. But the improvement was maintained
only a few hours. We also had to wait for a lull in the storm.
The route in winter is through the Magero Sound, steam
ers not doubling North Cape. On the little island of Fruhol-
men, latitude 71° 5' 45", is situated the most northerly light
house on the globe, guiding the mariner along that desolate
and dangerous coast, and warning him of danger. We passed
a fine mountain, called Kjerringen (old woman), and Cape
Stikkelvaagnseringen, with its sharp pyramidal mountain peaks.
An indescribable feeling of utter desolation impressed me as
I looked on that bleak land ; the steep sides of the mountain
seemed striped with black and white, which made the scene
appear still wilder. The whole coast, from a distance, seemed
to rise vertically. The dark gray sky was in unison with the
dreary landscape ; the wind was cold and piercing.
But even on that bleak island of Magero the Norseraen
have settlements. Suddenly masts of vessels appeared ; fish
ing-boats were seen at anchor, and houses stood near the shore.
It was the fishing-station of Honningsvaag. Kjelvig is the
most eastern station on the island ; and its church, vessels, and
houses soon came in sight. Though the sound was quiet the
wind blew a gale on the mountain-tops ; there the suow flew
in thick clouds, which suddenly came together, whirling, like
a water -spout, in a spiral column, which, in turn becoming
broken, sent its particles from Magero far over the sea.
Here are the highest tides on the Scandinavian coast. At

154 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
the Kattegat the tides are feeble, but they increase gradually
towards the north. At Stavanger they rise three feet; at
Trondhjem, eight, and at the North Cape ahd Vadso, nine
feet. Froni Kjelvig we sailed across the Porsanger fjord to Cape
Svserholdtklubben. This fjord extends southward as far as
70° latitude, and is the largest within the arctic circle, having
a length of about 85 miles ; its shores are dreary ; here and
there one sees a Lapp hut. Farther inland some of the hills
are clad with small birches. There are two or three fishing
settlements and two churches. Cape Svserholdtklubben forms
the extremity of a long peninsula, dividing the Porsanger from
the Laxe fjord, averaging a height of about 1000 feet at its
eastern extremity. The scenery is wild near the cape ; rag
ged raountains rise like walls near the abrupt shore, torn in
many places, and with huge masses of rock piled up at their
base. As we rounded the cape an immense number of small
gulls, frightened by our steamer, flew wildly above and around
us; the air Avas thick and every crevice in the rocks white
with thera ; I had never before seen such numbers of birds to
gether ; there must have been hundreds of thousands, perhaps
millions. The flshermen there ask, " Who is the biggest king
in the world?" "The king of Svserholdt; because he has the
most subjects." This bird, the Larus tridactylus, is the small
est species of gull, and the number of eggs they lay in the
crevices of the raountains and on the plateaus raust be simply
innumerable. The captain fired a gun, and the view above
our heads became extraordinary, in some places the birds be
ing so numerous as to hide the sky.
Then we came to the little fishing settlement of Svserholdt,
Avhich takes its name from the cape, and is protected by it ;
with north or north-west wind the landing is difiicult. A sin
gle family dwells here all the year round. The year before,
in mid-winter, their house was burned, and one of the chil
dren was lost ; no trace whatever of him was found ; the peo
ple to this day do not know whether, in the darkness of the
night, he fell into the water or was burned.
On the eastern shore of the Laxe fjord, near its entrance.

TWO MOST NORTHERN CHURCHES OF EUROPE. 155
and almost opposite Cape Svserholdtklubben, is a narroAV bay-
Hke arm of the sea, called the Eids fjord. From the deck of
the vessel we could see beyond a narrow low tract of land,
the Hops fjord, a small eastern branch of the Tana fjord:
the Eids is shallow, while the Hops is deep. The distance
between these two being very small, the Storthing has been
asked to make an appropriation to cut a canal to connect
them ; this would be of great advantage to the fisheries in
bad weather. The configuration of the land reminded me
forcibly of that of the island of Magero, and showed that,
when the country was still beneath the sea, the Kjorgosj Njarg,
the name of the massive rock, which is indented with bays and
fjords, was an island.
On the Laxe fjord is the thrifty fishing settlement of Lebes-
by, with a church. The northern coast of the Kjorgosj Njarg
is the wildest in Finmarken, the cliffs being very rugged.
The strata of the rocks were seen distinctly ; raasses had fallen
down near and into the sea in large slabs. One of the great
sights is the gaminel Finkirken (old Lapp church), situated
at the foot of the high hills near the sea. I took this at first
for the ruins of an old stone church or monastery, the end
walls of which still reraained, and I really believed it was an
ancient ruin, whose pillars or walls only were standing. The
illusion was complete until I came near it ; then I noted quite
a distance between the two walls, though the slab structure
gave the appearance of masonry : it was simply nature resem
bling the work of man. Finkirken certainly is one of the
greatest curiosities of Northern Europe. At the head of the
KjoUe fjord a picturesque wooden church and a few houses
formed the settlement. The church is at about lat. 70° 55' ;
this, with that of Kjelvig, are the two most northern churches
in Europe.
Continuing to skirt the shores, one doubles Nordkyn, lat. 71°
6' 50", the northern extremity. Kjorgosj Njarg is the raost
northern point of Europe, and is over 700 feet high. In the
distance, westward, is North Cape, appearing like a black mass
rising perpendicularly from the sea. 'From Nordkyn the coast
gradually becomes lower, and ice was thick at the head of the

156 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
fjords. Fishing-stations, where there are a few vessels, con
tinue to be seen, while bright-painted churches testify that the
seafaring population has places of worship on that oft-desolate
coast. Then one enters the Tana fjord, which pierces through
the mass of rocks for a distance of about forty-five miles ; its
mountains are high, in some places reaching a height of from
2000 to 2300 feet. Here the geological formation is chiefly of
sandstone quartz, of white, red, and yellow strata, and is crum
bling everywhere. Its upper end is filled with sand -banks
formed by the Tana River. This fjord is remarkable for the
forest of birches lining its shores to the south ; it has several
branches. Crossing the Tana fjord, one sails along the Vargack Njarg,
another huge knoll, bounded on the west by the Tana fjord
and river, the sea, and the Varanger fjord. From Tana Horn
the elevation of the coast continues to decrease, and is not
more than three or four hundred feet. Some fishing-stations
are passed, and one coraes to Vardo, the most important town
on the coast of Finmarken. We entered that crowded port in
the midst of a violent snow-storm. The place is built chiefly
on two bays extending in opposite directions, separated only
by a narrow tract of land in the shape of an elongated prom
ontory; an island farther at sea partly protects the shores.
The two harbors afford protection, one from the south-east
ern, the other from the north-western gales. The port is not
good, and it is said to be the most unsheltered toAvn on the
whole of that northern coast: to judge by the strong wind
blowing through its streets, and the huge snoAV-drifts, I should
say that its reputation is well deserved. It is the coldest place
in Finmarken, the mean temperature of the year being only a
fraction of a degree above freezing-point; but in cold winters
it is exceeded by KSf jord and Nyborg — the latter situated at
the inner end of the Varanger fjord.
There were but few vessels, but hundreds of fishing-boats
were stranded on the shores, and a great nuraber were at
anchor. The fleet had been unable to get out for more than
three weeks on account of storms, and no bait had been caught.
The place has a population of about 1200 inhabitants, and dur-

AN ECONOMICAL COMMANDANT. 157
ing the fishing season it is much larger. It had an unfinished
appearance ; some of the houses were painted, others not, and,
owing to the ground, there was no syrametry in the arrange
ment of the streets. The city is situated on the island of
Vardo, and at the most eastern extremity of the Vargack
Njarg. Here are seen three very interesting shore-lines, form
ed of large pebbles, which have been mentioned in Chapter
XVIII. of the first volume.
Those large fishing settlements presented a singular sight.
Scattered about were hundreds of poles on which the fish
were hung to dry. Near the bay were several manufactories
of brown cod-liver oil, and projecting over the water were the
wharf-houses of the merchants, partly built on piles.
Vardo is the only fortified place on the northern coast of
Norway. On the way to the fort (Vardohus) the wind was
so high that we could hardly stand against it, and the flying
snow so blinded us that at times we could not see our way.
Over the gate leading in was the date 1737. On one side of
the house of the commandant of the fort the snow was piled
above the door, and the flrst-story windows were hidden from
view. We had to enter by the kitchen, where we found the
ofliicial engaged in raaking a pair of boots for one of his
children. He had a large family to support, and strict econo
my was necessary. He received us kindly, and I admired his
manliness, for he was not in the least ashamed that Ave saw
him playing shoemaker.
The fort had twenty old-style cannon iu battery, and the
garrison was composed of twenty soldiers — seamen, no doubt,
for, on account of the small pay, six of the garrison fish for
the commandant, three for the lieutenant, and two f«r the
doctor; the fish are divided between the fishermen and the
respective officers for whom they are caught. This was prim
itive enough, and showed plainly that the Norwegians did not
wish the expenses of their army to fall heavily upon the peo
ple. The barracks reminded me much of those of the Cos
sacks on the island of TorneS..
From Vardo can be seen, on the other side of the bay which
forms the entrance to Varanger fjord. Cape Njemetski, the

158 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
most northern point of the Gikker Njarg — the last njarg on
the coast, unless Ave except the Kola peninsula (almost an
island), and the shores of which forra one of the most desolate
regions of Russia in Northern Europe.
Continuing to skirt the coast, about seventy railes farther
one coraes to Vadso. This last town on the Norwegian shore,
with a population of 1800 inhabitants, is divided into the Finn
and Norwegian quarters ; there are also a few Lapps. It is
the seat of a court, and the judge is the chief functionary of
the place. Like all fishing-stations, it is filled with framework
used to dry the fish. Cod-liver oil, and guano from fish-heads
and bones, are manufactured. A small steamer is engaged in
the whale fishery in an unusual way. The whales — which are
nuraerous on this part of the coast — are killed by a gun which
discharges a peculiar harpoon with an explosive shell. The
creatures thus taken are towed into Vadso. Many have been
obtained in this way during the past few years. The large Nor
wegian coasting steamer goes no farther, but there is gener
ally a small one plying weekly in the fjords. Vadso is the
last telegraphic station. Who would think that even on this
lone coast the iraportant news of the world flashes every day
over the wires, and is made known to the inhabitants ? The
postal telegraph has always been used, with but one uniform
rate all over the country, and from this northern part of the
land a raessage to the most southern point of Norway costs but
one krona. In Sweden it is the same, and, though the difr
tances are so great, the government is no loser ; the rates will
becorae still lower as soon as the receipts allow a reduction.
The schools are good ; Greek, Latin, Hebrew, French, Ger
man, <and English are taught. In this district sorae of the
teachers have to know the Norwegian, Finnish, and Lapp lan
guages. In many of the inhabitants' houses pianos, guitars,
violins, and concertinas are found. The horaes of the mer
chants are large and exceedingly comfortable, and their hospi
tality unbounded. I Avas invited by a fellow -passenger on
board the steamer, Herr W  , to stay at his house. Kind
ness to strangers seems to be the law of the land, and I was
introduced everywhere.

INCREASE OF EMIGRATION, 159
During winter the inhabitants, having nothing to occupy
their minds, sometimes labor under intense religious excite
ment. All through the past season there had been among the
Finns a time so threatening that, had it not been for fear of
the law, it might have ended seriously. The clergyraan was
not fanatical enough for these people, so they preached in their
rooms ; force and threats were used against those who did not
seem to be strong in the faith ; many declared that they had
the spirit of the Lord and power of prophecy ; others believed
that some were possessed of devils; the clergyman was un
willing to go with them, and in their excitement they threat
ened him. For awhile the Norwegian inhabitants wore sober
faces, not knowing how things might terminate, and fearing
that perhaps it would end in bloodshed, as it had in Kauto
keino some years before, where people were killed by the
fanatics, and the soldiers had to be called upon to quell the
disturbance and punish the assassins, who thought they were
doing God's will by raurdering those who did not believe as
they did. History repeats itself.
The catching of lodd {Mallotus arcticus) at the flshing set
tlements produces great excitement, and the young people
are continually on the watch for these little fish. When the
shoals are pursued by cod they take refuge near the shore.
While we were in Vadso an immense number of them were
caught, to the great joy of the population ; they had been wait
ing for them in order to commence the fishing-season, which
was late that year on account of the very stormy weather that
had prevented them from going out, and without lodd they
had no bait to fish with.
The emigration frora Finland into Norway is increasing,
and every year new settlers establish themselves on the coast.
A strong tide has begun to set towards the United States,
the people coming from Finland in sleighs, and starting for
America in the spring. Several hundred had left by the way
of Vadso the year before, the steamers taking them either to
Trondhjem, Bergen, or Christiania.
The long days came on with remarkable rapidity: the sun
was below the horizon in these regions till the latter part of

160 THE LAND OP THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
January ; and now, on the 25th of April, in clear weather, I
could read a newspaper by the windoAv at midnight.
I found here the largest specimens of reindeer I had ever
seen ; these had come from the country of the Saraoides, where
they are said to be larger than in Norway and Sweden.
The Varanger is the last of Norway's fjords, and the only
one on the coast of Finmarken which runs east and west. It
lies between 69° 30' and 69° 50', and is a most remarkable
one. Its northern shore is almost entirely bare of vegeta
tion, and even brush-wood is very scarce ; but the southern,
known under the narae of Sydvaranger (South Varanger), has
a remarkable growth, and is called Rafte siden (timber side) ;
many of the houses of Vadso and other places have been
built of timber from that forest. Large trees have become
scarce near the sea. On Kjo, Bugo, and Neiden fjords, south
ern branches of the Varanger, birches occur, and heather covers
the rocks ; the grass is luxuriant ; the trees grow larger and
larger towards the ends of the fjords, and thriving forests of fir
and pine are continuous. Three large rivers, the Jakob, Nei
den, and Pasvig, all abounding with salmon, throw themselves
into the fjord. As one ascends the latter streara — ^the largest
of the rivers which rise in Lake Enare — the hills are covered
to their tops with trees. These forests are said to cover an
area of 230 square miles, almost untouched by the axe, except
near the water, and many trees are large enough for timber.
One wonders at the possibility of the trees attaining dimen
sions in such a high latitude — 69° and 70° — fully compara
ble with those of more southerly parts of the country. The
nearer the sea the less the altitude of the trees, and the bet
ter the quality of the wood ; the farther north, the poorer
the timber becomes. Birch, alder, and asp abound, the latter
often attaining three feet in circumference : in many parts
fires have made sad havoc among the trees. The shores on
the west side of North Cape, though less covered with forests
— which doubtless were destroyed in former times— enjoy a
much warmer climate than those on the eastern side ; for, as
has been seen, on Alten fjord, in the same latitude as the
Varanger, barley, rye, and fruits grow, Avhile here these arc

THE HARBOR OF PASVIG. 161
not planted. The water of the sea is gradually getting colder,
and the Avinds frora the east are also bleaker. The popula
tion has very much increased of late years iu this extreme
north-eastern part of Norway, in spite of the barren soil, on
account of the fisheries and easy communication. Two ncAv
parishes have been created in South Varanger. The popula
tion, which hardly numbered lUO at one time, has increased,
according to the last census (1865), to 1171 individuals, com
prising 194 Northmen, 68 Nomad Lapps, 339 Lapp farmers,
539 farmers, mostly Finlanders, and 31 of mixed races. Tavo
churches have been built; a doctor and lensmand have been
appointed ; schools have been established.
The adjoining coast, knoAvn as Russian Lapland, abounds in
fish. There are many settlements, employing several thou
sand boats in the fisheries. A vast number of fish are caught,
even by Norwegians ; but, as the men are not allowed to land,
they often encounter violent storms with great loss of prop
erty and life.
Pasvig, the last regular port and fishing-station on the Nor
wegian coast, takes its name from the Lapp Avord basse (holy) :
probably the Pasvig Lapps, in former times, had here a place
for sacrifices. It has an excellent harbor, nearly circular, sur
rounded by rocks. The entrance is narrow, but it is said that
it can be entered during all winds.
The most eastern pai't of NorAvay is bounded by the Pasvig
River, which flows into the sea opposite Vadso, and by the
Jakob River. A knowledge of this region now shoAA's that
for a certain distance eastward the coast is open all the year
round. In regard to the ice-bound coast of Russia, I Avill sim
ply say, Avere she so inclined, that country could establish a
harbor on her oavu possessions ; that the Kola fjord does not
freeze; that the sea remains open, as on the Norwegian coast,
for a considerable distance, and forests grow on the banks of
its rivers and lakes — facts which shoAV that it is not necessary
to conquer the northern part of NorAvay in order to have an
open port all the year round.
From Vadso to Nyborg — a haralet raade up of a fcAv scat
tered farms on the broAv of a hill, belonging to fishing Lapps,
VOL. II. M

162 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
at the inner end of the Varanger fjord — the distance by water
is about thirty-five miles. On the shores are seen two or three
fishing settlements, a few Lapp gammer, and the church of
Nsesby. Several boats, each with Iavo woraen as rowers, came
to our steamer, while at tiraes women alone were seen crossing
the fjord.
On the 25th of April I found myself at the head of the
Varanger fjord ; for a distance of about three miles the sea
was frozen, and our steamer had to lie along-side the ice.
Sleighs were in waiting to take the mails and passengers.
In a pleasant white house, not far from the shore, lived the
Norwegian lensmand, Brun, with his charming family, con
sisting of wife and two grown-up daughters : books and news
papers carae by the weekly or semi-monthly mail, and, with a
piano, enabled them to pass the time pleasantly in their soli
tary home, for they had to depend upon themselves for society.
It was very late in the season, and the Laplanders and their
reindeer had left. "If you had been here only a week before,
you would have had no difficulty in going south," said the
lensmand. I ought not to have been later than the 1st of
April. "You raust stay Avith me for a day or two, and I will
see if any Lapps are still in the neighborhood and are will
ing to take you." How agreeable Avas the hospitality of that
kind-hearted family, Iioav cosy and comfortable was my bed
room, how luxurious Avas the feather-bed ! I appreciated all
the more the luxuries of a civilized and genteel life after the
roughing of the winter.
Near Nyborg some Sea Lapps' dwellings are seen on the
ridge of a hill. We will enter a gamme — as the sod-houses of
the Lapps are called — belonging to Matis (Mathias) Johnsen
Laiti — a long, narrow, low house, built entirely of sod. It
AA'as divided into three rooms, the entrance beine: through a
low Avooden door into a centi'e room, in Avhich Avere winter
garments hung on poles, a pile of fire-Avood, and a heap of
sea-AA^eed. In the roora on the left, about tweh'e feet long
and ten Avidc, the family lived. It was paved with fiat slabs;
in one corner Avas a bed made of small branches of birch,
kept together by large logs. At the foot of the bed Avas a

CURIOUS FOOD FOR CATTLE.

163

A STONE AND SOD GAM.ME,

small cow, and in the opposite corner another, each about
three feet in height. The wife was seated on the bed, dressed
in a coarse kind of woollen chemise with long sleeves, woollen
pantaloons, and Lapp shoes, wearing on her head one of the
ciueer cask-like caps before described. BetAveen the coav and
the bed was a calf : three sheep and two sraall children com
pleted the family, the OAvner being absent. Everything was
scrupulously clean, and there was a little gutter to receive the
dirt of the cattle. The structure of the house was tent-like ;
there was a strong frame of poles supporting the turf, from
the middle of which, under the opening for the smoke, were
four poles to which Avas attached a huge iron pot full of sea
weed, covered by birch-bark. This sea-weed had been cooked
for the cows; I tasted it, and found it was not at all salt.
The cattle in this part of the world have learned to eat horse-
dung, raw fish, dry fish-heads boiled, sea-weed and grass, and
even boiled lichens. The rest of the furniture consisted of a
few kettles, a coffee-pot, a lamp, and a few chests. These sod-
houses often last ten or twelve years, but require frequent re
pairs, and new layers of turf. „

164 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
Not far distant from Matis's gamme was a small farm belong
ing to Mikel Iversen, a well-to-do person. The building was
long and narrow, one part built of logs, the remainder of lay
ers of turf. In the wooden part was the parlor, kitchen, and
bedroom all in one ; the roof was made of poles covered with
birch- bark, over which was placed earth. The cattle here
were kept by themselves. Two cows, tAvo little oxen, and
eight sheep formed the wealth of the family. The master
with the two oxen had gone for sea-weed ; but soon after my
arrival he raade his appearance with a small cart, having two
old-fashioned wheels of solid wood, drawn by his two oxen —
dwarfish and wretched-looking creatures.
Near by was the farm of Ole Person Maja. The dwelling-
house was built entirely of logs, and reminded me very much
of those belonging to poor Scandinavians in other parts of
Sweden and Norway ; but inside it made some pretension to
luxury and corafort. The little room had two wooden beds, a
cast-iron stove, a clock, and three chairs; and here, also, as
araong the hurabler dAvellings we have just seen, everything
was exceedingly clean. The wife wore the usual coarse vad-
raal gown, but had a close-fitting cap upon her head, and
looked wonderfully like a raan. Maja Avas considered very
rich by his neighbors ; he owned a horse, with a special stable
for him, and his four cows and sheep had also a building for
themselves. Being unable to procure any reindeer, the obliging lensmand
concluded that he would go with rae part of the way, try to
see some Lapps, and help me out of my dilemma.

EXTENT OF COUNTRY. 165

CHAPTER XIII.
Lapland. — Extent of the Country. — Swedish and Norwegian Lapland. — Character
of the Country. — Moss Tracts. — Summer and Winter Wanderings. — The Life of
the Mountain Lapp. — Population of Lapland. — Numbers of Reindeer. — Size of
Herds. — Honesty of the Laplander. — His Severe Training. — Hard Life. — Physical
Structure of the Lapps. — Fine Climate of Lapland. — Diseases of the Country. —
Long Life of some Lapps. — Food. — Contentment of the Lapps.
Before proceeding on our journey southward, we will give
a general outline of the country inhabited by Laplanders, and
known under the name of " The Land of Lapps," which com
prises the northern part of Scandinavia ; these people are also
found in the north of Finland, and in Russia to the most east-
em extremity of the peninsula of Kola, and as far as the White
Sea. Russian Lapland has an extent of about 13,000 square miles ;
Swedish, 10,500 ; Finnish, 6,000 ; Norwegian, 3,500 : in all,
33,000 square miles. Some parts of Russian Lapland are cov
ered with large forests of coniferous trees ; these occupy about
3,000,000 acres, while the hills and valleys towards the north
are chiefly clad with dAvarfed birch, but there are also exten
sive tracts of tundra, or treeless desert.
In Norway and Sweden the Lapps are found as far south
as 62° in the provinces of Herjedalen and Jemtland, and in
Hedemarken and Trondhjem, but very few inhabit these two
large Norwegian provinces. Going northward, their number
increases steadily, and by far the greatest population is found
in Norway in the amts or proAances of Tromso and Finmar
ken. The Russian Lapps, according to Friis, are not nomads
in the sense that they roam around with herds of reindeer, for
they own but few of these ; still, although they live in houses
of timber or earth, every family changes its dwelling-place
three or four times a year. In the spring they go to their

166 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
suramer quarters, which are by a lake or the sea ; some move
again in the middle of suraraer to other fisheries on rivers or
lakes. In August they move to their fall stations, where, be
sides fishing, they also hunt reindeer, birds, martens, squirrels,
otters, and bears. About Christmas they move into their win
ter homes, which generally are in small hamlets. Their mode
of living prevents them frora having many reindeer.
These Laplanders call themselves Sabrae or Sarae (plural,
Samelats) ; by the Swedes they are called Lapp (plural, Lappar) ;
by the Norwegians, erroneously. Fin (plural, Finner) ; and the
Finlanders are known by them as Kvsen (plural, Kvsener).
The Laplander is unlike the Esquimaux, and I have found
that they differ materially from the descriptions I have read
of them ; though by many regarded as branches of the same
Mongolian or Turanian stock, I think, with Retzius, that the
Lapps and Esquimaux are of entirely different races — the for
mer being short-headed {brachycephalic) and straight -jawed
{orthognathic), while the Esquimaux are long-headed {dolicho
cephalic) and prominent-jaAved {prognathic). Finland is called
Sitomi, and the people Suomalaiset, by the Finlanders. These
two words bear a close resemblance to the Lapp words, and
suggest people of the same origin. The two languages are
said to have some similarity ; but a minor people, for obvi
ous reasons, usually adopt the language of the dominant race.
Physically, at this day, they are unlike, the Finlander being
far the taller, and in personal appearance raore allied to the
Scandinavian and Teutonic races, as well as their equal in in
telligence. But, whatever raay be the different characteristics
of all those northern people (which it is not the object of
this work to consider), the traveller is now and then surprised
at finding, when least expected, some of the sarae features
among the Scandinavians, Germans, Scotch, and other Euro
peans — namely, high cheek-bones, nose retrousse, fiat between
the eyes, and face short and rounded — which shoAV resem
blances to the Mongolian type.
Swedish Lapland is divided into districts, naraed after the
provinces Avhere the Lapps are found. The country is ex
ceedingly well watered, rivers and lakes being found in Gxcry

LAW AND ORDER OBSERVED. 167
direction ; swamps abound, and forests cover an area of over
twenty million acres. From the eastern mountain range val
leys from 150 to 200 miles long descend to the sea; the hills
Avhich separate them average from 400 to 600 feet in height,
and, with the loAver ground, are covered Avith forests and
swamps. Reindeer-moss is plentiful, and there during the
Avinter the SAvedish Laplanders retire.
We have seen that in the extensive territory occupied by
the Swedish and Norwegian Lapps law and order prevail, as
in other parts of the land ; lawlessness and brigandage are un-
knoAvn, the Avildest and least inhabited districts being as safe
as any other in this most honest laud. All the Laplanders be
long to certain parishes, where they pay taxes and tithes, their
children receive religious instruction, births and deaths are
registered, and the number of reindeer they possess is known.
The moss-tracts have to be carefully husbanded, not too rauch
time being spent at one spot, while others must be avoided, to
allow a crop to mature. 1 have been told that it takes frora
seven to ten years for it to grow again, and in sorae districts
even longer than this. The healthy and growing raoss has a
greenish-white tinge, and is soft and somcAvhat spongy. When
it ceases to develop it becomes dry. The finest I saw was on
the Palajoki.
There are many mountain districts in Norway and Sweden,
especially in the first country, where great herds of reindeer
could be pastured in suraraer. Year after year will a faraily
roam over the sarae tract as did their ancestors, here sleep
ing with the back resting against the same boulder, there un
der a huge rock pitching the tent, partly protected from the
weather. The Fjeld Lapp's time is engaged in adding to his herd, to
which he and his faraily devote all their energies, for their
welfare depends on the growth of the aniraals. It is difficult
to ascertain exactly the increase or decrease of reindeer accord
ing to the districts ; for the people often change, and there
has been of late years in the North a large emigration of Nor-
Avegian Lapps to the territory of Sweden, especially to Karesu
ando ; but, taken as a whole, the population and the reindeer

168 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
are increasing. There is a greater number in Norway than
in Sweden, owing to the number of stationary bonder (farm
ers), and Sea Lapps, which far outnumber the Nomads.
According to the late census, there are
In Sweden (1870)  6,702 Laplanders, with 220,800 reindeer;
" Norway (1866)  17,178 " " 101,768
" Finland (1865)  615 " " 40,200
" Russia (1859)  2,207 " " 4,200
With those that belong to farmers and others, I think we may
safely say that the reindeer number about 400,000. The Sa
raoides have the largest and finest breeds, which are not num
bered among those of the Lapps. In Kautokeino there are
Lapps Avho own 2000 reindeer ; in Sorsele, in Sweden, one is
said to own 5000, and others 1000 and 2000. Some of the
Forest Lapps have 1000. In Lule^ Lappmark there are herds
of over 2000 ; in Finmarken of 5000, and some Lapps have
owned as many as 10,000. A herd of 2000 to 2500 is said
to give about 200 to 250 calves yearly.
Every owner has his own raark branded on the ears of all
his reindeer, and no other person has a right to have the same,
as this is the lawful proof of ownership ; otherwise, when sev
eral herds are mingled in the mountains, the separation Avould
be impossible. According to custom no one can make a ucav
raark, but raust buy that of an extinct herd ; if these are
scarce, the price paid to the farailies that OAvn them is often
high ; the name of the purchaser and each mark have to be
recorded in court, like those of any other owner and property.
The tax paid is according to the pasture-land occupied.
There are soraetiraes hard feelings between Laplanders and
Norwegian settlers in the thrifty inhabited districts of the
fjords near the coast, especially in the province of Tromso, on
account of the damage done by the reindeer to the meadoAvs
or crops, I was told by sorae Laplanders that on the Alten
fjord the farmers upon whose grounds they have to pass by
the fjords, in order to go to pasture, ask an extortionate price
for the right of way. I hope the Storthing will see that this
abuse is remedied if the complaint be true.

GREAT ENDURANCE OF THE LAPLANDERS, 109
The Laplander is so honest that his kata is often left Avith
no one to take care of the food, coffee, sugar, garments, silver
ware, etc., and these are at the mercy of the first thief among
them that coraes along. But pilfering is very rare, and the
tent is almost held sacred. Reindeer thieves are occasionally
found, and they have to be guarded against ; these are gener
ally the Fisher Lapps, or the bonder who have settled down ;
it is hard for them to resist the temptation to take from a
herd which is left to itself. Once two men were recora
mended to me as guides by au official; I learned at the sarae
time that although one of them had been in prison for steal
ing reindeer, I could trust him. I went with him over the
inhabited districts Avith perfect safety. I never have had a
disagreement with any one of them in regard to pay or any
thing else. I have often been amused, on my return to the
Norwegian coast, at the people wondering how I dared to go
alone into the mountains araong the Lapps, and in raore than
one instance names of persons never heard from were given
to rae as a warning ; but the fears Avere groundless, as my ex
perience amply proves.
The Laplander, by the severe training he undergoes from
childhood, sleeping on the bare ground, or resting against a
stone, suffering hunger, and being exposed to great changes
in the weather, has very great powers of endurance. In sura
raer he has constantly to follow his herd, which is for the
greater part of the day on the raarch, as they are not then
obliged to dig to get to the raoss. He is also compelled to
go through swaraps and bogs, or to cross patches of soft deep
snow, to swira or pass rivers swollen by melted snow or the
fiow from glaciers, as I have frequently done : often hungry,
and obliged to milk a reindeer for subsistence, when he comes
to the kata he is generally overcome with fatigue, and, chang
ing his wet clothes, falls into a sleep brought on by sheer ex
haustion. Frequently he wanders over a tract of nearly one
hundred miles, reraaining three or four days in a district, then
moving six or seven miles farther. In winter he travels over
dreary Avastes, during violent storms, suffering from hunger
and cold. On the watch, night and day, for bears, wolves.

170 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
and gluttons, perhaps he is suddenly awakened, after sleep
ing an hour, and summoned for the protection of his stock
against enemies which may scatter the herd and reduce him
to poverty. All this raakes the Mountain Laplander one of
the hardiest of men, and his physical structure shows at once
that he is equal to the deraands of his life. He is of short
stature, compactly but slightly built, with strong limbs — his
light weight allowing hira to clirab, jump, and run quickly.
Consumption, cancer, chills and fever, and affections of the
liver and kidneys, are unknown. The water is as pure as in
granitic countries, and the drinking of sour milk prevents many
complaints elsewhere common. But acute diseases are preva
lent — often brought on by the perspiration Avhich comes when
ascending steep raountains being suddenly checked by the
piercing winds of the summit. I am surprised, after having
been subjected to such exposure on the mountains of Scandi
navia year after year, that I have yet to know what a rheu-
raatic pain is. I have seen Lapps use the fat coming out of
cheese, which they keep before the fire, to rub on their sore
spots and sprains. They are subject to measles, and some
times get small-pox from the sea-shore people. Hernia is not
unfrequent, owing to their driving with the legs reversed and
acting as a drag on their sleighs. Ophthalmia is quite preva
lent, on account of the cold winds and the glare of the snow ;
in the spring great care has to be taken with the eyes, as the
reflection of the sun is very bright in April, May, and the be
ginning of June; without blue or green goggles one easily
becomes snow-blind. The raen and woraen are active to a
great age. Their life in the open air and constant wander
ing on foot preserves the elasticity of the muscles ; their
simple habits, the keen, invigorating, dry air, and the pure
water (which is without lime) all contribute to secure lon
gevity 'to those who have been able to pass the severe or
deal of childhood. Many attain very great age, some more
than a hundred years. When I Avas in their country in
1873 there were Laplanders living avIio were born in the
years 1773-1775. Although the Lapps live chiefly on animal
food, barley -flour is almost always found in the kSta, to be

PIOUS LABORS OF ISAAC OLSEN.

171

used for raush, unleavened bread, or blood-pudding. They
often mix their railk Avith sorrel -grass {Rv,mex). They are
great drinkers of coffee, inveterate smokers and snuff-takers.
The vice of drunkenness, once so prevalent, has now almost
entirely disappeared at home ; but Avhenever they go to a
toAvn, and can procure spirituous liquors, they generally have
a frolic for a day or two.
In Norway the first Christian instruction araong the Lap
landers began about 1640 ; in SAveden in 1606 ; even in far
away Soutli Varanger a school-raaster named Isaac Olsen, as
early as 1703, and under great difficulties, converted the Lap
landers of that district. Happy, and contented with his lot
in the Avorld, endowed with a religious nature, which a barren
and lonely land contributes to intensify, the Lapp believes in
God, in his Bible, in the Lord Jesus Christ as the Son of God,
and in a future life. Frora those dreary wastes his songs of
praise and prayers are uttered with a faith Avhich ceases only
Avith his breath, and he departs rejoicing that he is going to
the " better land."

THE I'ASVIG. 'J'HE SlOdT .SOltlllEll.N UIVEIi IN EUKOPfi.

172 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER XIV.
The Different Classes of Lapps. — The Mountain or Nomad Lapp. — The Sea Lapp.
— Dwellings of Sea Lapps. — Appearance and Dress of Sea Lapps. — The River
Lapp. — His Mode of Living. — The Forest Lapp. — Dwelling of a Forest Lapp. —
His Way of Life. — Fisher Lapps. — Habits of Fisher Lapps. — The Njalla. —
Lapp Villages.

The Laplanders may be divided into the following classes,
according to their habitat and manner of life : 1. The Moun
tain or Nomad Lapps, who live upon the increase of their herds,
and wander with them all the year round from pasture to past
ure, living in tents — these possess by far the largest number of
reindeer ; 2. The Sea Lapps ; 3. The Forest Lapps ; 4. The
River Lapps ; 5. The Fisher Lapps. All are descended from
the Mountain or Nomad Lapps.
The Sea Lapps are met along the wild coast of Nordland
and Finmarken, and are principally engaged in the cod-fish
eries. They are daring and good sailors, and many are em
ployed on the boats commanded by Norwegians. Some own
their own little craft ; and I have not unfrequently seen such
commanded by the husband, while the wife and daughter, sis
ters, or hired women, formed the crew. The women are very
hardy, and excellent sailors. The dwellings of the Sea Lapps
are very primitive ; they are called gamine (plural gammer),
and are very peculiar ; they are constructed of earth, and vary
in shape ; many are round, and sorae are conical, like summer
tents ; the fireplace is in the centre, and the smoke finds its
way out through the aperture above; two or three of them
are sometimes together : these belong to the poorest Sea Lapps.
There are others of the shape of ordinary houses, built also en
tirely of turf, including the roof ; walls of stone are occasion
ally placed outside, to protect the turf and make them more

A SPARE USE OF THE COMB. 173
durable. As many have no windows, the light comes only
from above ; Avhen the fire is low the smoke-aperture is cover
ed with a frame. Houses more pretentious are made entirely
of logs ; in the best districts they are not distinguishable frora
those of the Norwegian farmers.
To the occupation of fishing these Lapps add that of farming.
Almost every one OAvns tAvo or three cows, a few sheep, goats,
and reindeer ; patches of potatoes and grass often surround
the gamme. Their principal labor, however, is fishing, which,
Avhen successful, is remunerative. The women take care of
the barn and the household, often repairing the nets, putting
bait on the lines, and splitting and drying the fish. In win
ter both sexes are clad in reindeer skins with the hair in
side : their head-covering, like that of all the Lapps of the
mountains, consists of an enormous square cap. The woraen
wear an extraordinary head-dress, shaped soraewhat like a
cask ; its forra is owing to a hollow piece of wood. The sum
mer garment of the women is a kind of long chemise, Avith
sleeves to the Avrist, often without a belt, made of woollen
vadmal — very much the same material as is used for the tents
of the Mountain Lapps ; the color is usually blackish or gray,
and rags and patches are very comraon. They have generally
long, shaggy, dark or deep chestnut hair, with a reddish tinge,
Avhich they comb only on Sunday, and on this and their dirty
garments vermin are abundant. The raen are dressed in like
raanner, and on the head a cap of bright wool is worn. The
women are so accustomed to hard work and exposure that,
after a certain age, their features become so coarse as to make
it difficult to distinguish a man from a woraan ; when young,
it is hard to tell a girl from a boy.
One can judge of the standard of the Lapps by the nura
ber of farailies who live in houses or gamraer. In Alten,
Skjservo, and Lyngen parishes the Lapps are greatly mixed
by intermarriage with Norwegians and Finns, the offspring
forming a good class of people. Many of them are as intelli
gent as the Norwegians, and are a valuable addition to the
population of that country. The table on the following page
gives the nuraber of houses and gammer in different localities.

174 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
There are in Lyngen  204 log-houses to 13 gammer ;
" " Skjajrvo  225 " " 5
" " Indre Alten   38 " " 6
" Kautokeino  18 " " 6
" " Trondenaes  1 " " 23
" Maasij  1 " " 97
" Lebesby  2 " " 50
" " Hammerfest  9 " ¦' 129
By this it Avill be seen that the Lapps stand highest in the
first parish, and lowest in the last named.
RIVER LAPPS.
Ascending the streams falling into the fjords, the River
Lapps are found. These differ but little in their Avays of liv
ing from the Sea Lapps, and many during the fishing-season
go to sea ; they are found in Norway, especially on the banks
of the Tana, Karasjok, and Alten rivers, and their affiuents.
In summer their occupation is salmon -catching, or serving
as sailors. Almost every family has a small farra, on which
are kept cattle, horses, sheep, and goats ; they cultivate the
soil, aud during the summer their reindeer are taken care of
by the Mountain Lapps ; they extend hospitality to their moun
tain brethren, and take care of thera in sickness.
FOREST LAPPS.
Ascending the Lule, Pite, Byske, Skellefte, Umc, and other
rivers, or near the lakes, the Forest Lapps are met here and
there in the woods. Many of their dwellings are peculiar
in shape ; in sorae districts the lower part is square, built of
three or four logs well joined together, the upper portion being
pyramidal, of split trees covered with birch-bark, over which
boards are put. A large fiat stone is in the middle for fire,
at the place where the cooking is done. There is the usual
hole in the centre for the escape of smoke. In some the
floor is covered with stone slabs, in others Avith young branches
of the birch, and, as in the kt^ta, skins are spread for the fam
ily to sleep upon. Near the dwellings are large enclosures
where, at a certain season of the year, the reindeer are penned
every day. Many of the Forest Lapps oavu extensive herds.

Ehno
« o
SoOh Ph
¦<1-5

A DWELLING-PLACE OF FOREST LAPPS.

175

Avliich are milked two or three times a day. They have kStas
built from distance to distance, for they are obliged to move
in order to pasture their herds.
In Herjeadalen the reindeer are soraetiraes allowed to roam
all summer; at the breeding -time, in October, they are col
lected again, and not let loose till spring. It is often neces
sary to raake fires around the enclosures, that the smoke may
drive away the SAvarms of mosquitoes which otherwise would
set the herd frantic. In the southern part of Lapland the
reindeer (both in NorAvay and Sweden) do not go to the sea.

DWELLING-PLAOE OF FOREST LAPPS BETWEEN SEUTNER AND JEKFO-IATTK, IN AEVIDSJATTR.
TO TUE EIGHT A LUOPTE (lATIDEB) : BUTOUEEING OP REINDEEK IN TIIE FOEEGItOUND.

The several herds are frequently raixed, but are easily sep
arated when necessary, each owner knowing his own by dis
tinctive marks. The Forest Lapps raake a great deal of cheese,
and smoke reindeer meat and tongues, whieh are bought ex
tensively by Swedes and Norwegians.
The Fishing Lapps are another class, derived, like the others,
from the Nomad or Mountain Lapps, Avho, becoming impov
erished, and unwilling to serve, prefer to live independently.
By lonely lakes and on the banks of streams these Lapps build

176

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

DWELLING OF A FISHING LAPP FAMILY.

their habitations, surrounded generally by forests of fir, pine,
or birch. A faraily raay own several kator, and when the
fishing ends at one place they go to another. During the
sumhier they subsist on fish, and smoke and salt a large num
ber for winter use, and for sale.
Besides fishing, they are engaged
in several other industries — mak
ing wooden vessels, baskets, shoes,
etc. Often at a place where the
pasture is good and fish abun
dant, they improve the kSta, get
a cow or two and a few reindeer,
and become settled Laplanders.
These little places during the
winter are the rendezvous of the
Mountain Lapps.
In the parish of Arvidsjaur,
on the banks of Lake Jerfojaur
(which forms the upper basin of
the series of lakes of which Arvidsjaur is oue) and of Byske
River, which fiows directly into the Bothnia above Skelleftea,
is the picturesque dwelling-place of a Fisher Lapp, Avitli two

TUE NJALLA.

THE MOUNTAIN LAPP'S STOREHOUSE.

177

larders on posts : to the left is a frame for drying fish, and in
the foreground a hassja for drying hay.
One sees now and then in some districts queer little houses
(the njalla) built of logs, supported by a single post, or some
times by four, so high above the ground that the winter snow
will not cover them, nor can the wolves, foxes, or other wild
animals get into them in suraraer. In these the Mountain
Lapp keeps the stores which he does not wish to carry with
hira, such as cheese, skins, and pulverized milk. A ladder is
necessary to reach the door, the njalla being used, in case of
emergency, as a place of refuge for the night from storms.
We have also seen that Lapps live together in small hamlets.
These are always situated on the shores of rivers or lakes. The
church, parsonage, and school-house are the prominent build
ings of the place. These Lapps are farraers. In raany dis
tricts of Sweden their houses are of peculiar shape, and re
semble those of the Forest Lapps. The following engraving
shows a street in the village of Arvidsjaur, Pite Lappraark.

STREET IN TIIE VILLA'iE OF ARVlDO,IAUR, PITE LAPP.MAEK.
VOL. II. N

178 XHE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER XV.
Departure from Varanger Fjord. — On the Way Southward. — ^Little Snow by the
Sea. — Meeting Laplanders. — No Reindeer. — Polmak. — The Tana River. — Good
bye to the Lensmand of Nyborg. — Reindeer Coming. — Leave Polmak. — Sirma. —
Difficulties of Travelling in the Spring. — The Reindeer Weak. — Slow Speed. — ^A
Dangerous Start. — Upsetting. — Travelling on the Tana. — ^Utsjoki. — Dirty Quar
ters on the Way. — Segelnaes. — The Karasjoki River. — Arrival at Karasjok. — Com
fortable Quarters. — Friends in Need. — -No Reindeer to be Had. — The Karasjok
Lapps. — Forests. — ^Variations of Temperature. — A Funeral.
The journey from the Tana or Varanger fjord to the Gulf of
Bothnia is comparatively easy in winter. There are no steep
raountains to cross ; the road is on the Tana River, which fiows
in the valley, and is only a continuation of the fjord ; after
the Gloramen it is the largest river in Norway. The distance
to Karasjok is about 142 miles, from there to Kautokeino 126
railes, from Kautokeino to Karesuando 63 railes, and frora the
latter place, by the route we have folloAved in summer, about
260 miles more — in all, from 590 to 600 miles.
Along the Varanger fjord the snow was only about three
inches in depth. Among false popular notions is one that the
farther north one goes the greater is the fall of suoav. Ex
plorers who have tried to penetrate towards the pole have
found less and less snow as they went in that direction. The
Swedish explorer, Nordenskiold, and Dr. I. I. Hayes, Avhose
charming work many of us have read, state that in high lati
tudes the fall of one year was sixteen inches, and another year
two feet. The snowy tracts of Norway and Sweden are not
the farthest north ; the great snow-belt is, as I have said, be
tween lat. 61° and 64°.
From Nyborg to Polmak, on the Tana River, the distance is
about eighteen miles. We Avended our Avay, after leaving the
fjord, through a wood chiefly of birch-trees, with here and thei-e

ARRIVAL AT POLMAK, 179
a fine asp. There Avas no road, so we drove slowly. After a
few miles the barking of dogs, Avhich soon came in sight,
warned us of the approach of Lapps, Avho shortly made their
appearance, with ten loaded kerres, eii roii,te for Nyborg.
They had been upon the raountains towards Nordkyn, aud
Avere going to join their people. The lensmand urged them
to take me, promising good pay. They finally said they would
stop at Polmak as they Avent south. The only way left for rae
was to pay well, for the tariff season was noAv over, and no
reindeer were provided at any of the post-stations ; and coax
ing only could induce people to transport a traveller frora one
place to another. Farther on Ave carae to a kata, whose herd
had also left ; the inhabitants were waiting for those Avho were
coraing to carry the luggage and tent ; the promise of good
pay did not tempt them to undertake the trip.
Both sides of the river were lined with alluvial terraces
showing the elevation of the land ; here and there through
the birches we could see the ganimer and log-houses of the
River Lapps. After a drive of a few hours we came to Pol
mak, situated at the junction of the river of that name with
the Tana. The source of this little stream is a sraall lake,
and the scenery about it is quite picturesque. The hostess
and her daughter could hardly find words to express their
adrairation of the river. " You ought to come here in sum
mer!" "How are the mosquitoes here in July?" "Very
thick, very thick," was the answer ; " but corae after the mos
quitoes are gone."
No reindeer could be procured. A gray sky warned the
lensmand to leave, and, as we parted, he said, " We shall soon
have the pleasure of meeting you in Nyborg again." He was
raistaken ; for early the next raorning two of the Lapps we
had met on our Avay, with three reindeer, were ready to convey
rae to Karasjok.
The Tana above Polraak forras for quite a distance the
boundary between Russian Finland and Norway. The river
fiows through a fine hilly country clad with birch, and, high
er up, with pines and fir ; the dwellers on its shores are chiefiy,
if not altogether. River Lapps. Farms, generally two together,
N 2

180 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
and soraetiraes small hamlets, far apart, were seen from time
to time. The route was on the frozen river. We stopped at
Sirma, about twenty-one railes from Polmak, where raen had
to go into the mountains for fresh animals — ours being ex
hausted — promising to return the following day. At this time
of the year — the end of the season^the reindeer were very
feeble, and it was the worst time to travel with them; they
were shedding their coats and horns, and were lean and weak
frora their Avinter digging ; they felt the heat of the sun, and
seven or eight railes an hour was all they could travel in the
softening snow. The place contained four or five farms; I
was left at one where the wife could speak Norwegian. The
accoramodations were simple enough ; there was a small room
for strangers, having an open fireplace, with reindeer skins for
a mattress on the bed, the wife's woollen dresses for a pillow,
and skeepskins for blankets ; but we found good coffee, rein
deer meat, butter, and cow's railk. The people were compara
tively rich : the farm had three buildings, and they OAvned
three cows, an ox, several sheep, and a number of reindeer.
Before ray hostess was married she used to go on fishing-boats,
and in that way learned to speak Norwegian. At this time of
the year many of the raen were on the coast engaged in the
fisheries, so the raan of the house was not at home.
The fresh reindeer, apparently not very Avell trained, ap
peared wild, and were harnessed with great care. Before
reaching the river we had to pass through a birch wood. The
young man who was to be my guide seemed distrustful even
at the start ; to guard against accident or a wild runaway our
three kerres were tied together. I was the first seated, hold
ing the rein of ray courser. As the Laplander jumped in, and
before he was fairly ready, the animal started at a furious
speed, but the driver managed to hold on. The second one
gained on the first, mine wanted to go faster than the other two,
and the spare one, instead of keeping at the back of my sleigh,
Avent ahead. We started, therefore, in the greatest disorder,
bumping against the trees; frora the rapidity of our course
there was constant danger of being dashed against them. I
iraraediately unfastened the rein around ray wrist, so that if I

AN ACCIDENT REPEATED, 181
upset I should not be dragged against a rock or tree. As we
came near the banks of the river the reindeer became still
Avilder, and they Avent at a very rapid pace. Suddenly the
first vehicle touched the stump of a tree, and all the dexterity
of my Lapp could not prevent him from upsetting just as we
reached the base of the river-bank. His leg became entangled
in the rein, and his kerres ran over hira. The second beast
raade a turn to the left, and the sleigh containing the baggage
struck the first one, happily not touching the Laplander. Mine
Avas coming double-quick against both ; the. spare reindeer be
hind rushed ahead, turning mine the wrong way, and I went
broadside against one of the kerres, Avhen, as if by magic, the
animals came to a stand-still.
This took place in a great deal less time than I have taken
to describe it, and was the only dangerous overturning I had
experienced during the winter. My guide arose, angry at the
mishap but not hurt. After this we were in no danger, as we
were once more on the river, where there were no trees to be
guarded against, and where, if our reindeer chose to go at rail-
Avay speed, it was all the better for us.
After taking breath and adjusting the harness we jumped
into our kerres. After a few miles the aniraals shoAved signs
of getting tired, for the sun was warm, and the snow had be
come quite soft. We tarried at Utsjoki, the next important
hamlet from Sirma, on the Finnish side ; it has a church, situ
ated by the river of that narae at its junction with the Tana :
it belongs to Russian Finland. Here Ave found Finn farraers,
and one large dwelling-house ; it was also the residence of a
lensmand. The number of reindeer belonging to the district
then amounted to over 40,000. In the afternoon it began to
freeze, and after the snow had become crisp we started again.
The track continued on the river, with short cuts overland to
avoid the bends. Another accident happened here. As we were
driving through a birch wood one of the kerres caught in a
tree, and stopped suddenly, breaking the trace. The reindeer
got loose and ran for sorae distance, and how to capture hira
was the question. My Laplander attempted to lasso him, but
had to be exceedingly wary, for, as he approached, the animal

182 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
quickly raoved off. He stepped slyly and softly, appearing
not to go specially for the beast, and finally succeeded in
lassoing and re-harnessing him. A short time after, as we
went down the steep bank of the river at great speed, a sud
den curve threw me out of ray sleigh with such violence that,
notwithstanding the deep snow, I saw stars, and the granulated
particles left their imprint on my forehead.
The traveller has great trouble in finding tolerably clean
quarters, and even those in which he is finally obliged to stay
are clean only by comparison. Many of the River Lapps are
terribly dirty, but sheer exhaustion compels the traveller to
stop in their abodes. In fair winter weather he knows exactly
where he can stop and rest, free from such discomfort.
At midnight we came to a single house, where we found a
man fast asleep, lying quite naked between two dirty black
sheepskins. The filth of the place was such, and the vermin
apparently so plentiful, that I could not reraain. My Lapp,
Avho was tired, did not seem to share ray feelings, as he was
accustomed to dirt, and wanted to stop. After a drive of
about sixty miles from Sirma I reached Port, having been fif
teen hours on the way, including four hours at Utsjoki and
an hour of rest, on the river, for the reindeer. The prin
cipal room here was quite a sight, and another picture of filth.
The dirty beds were filled with old hay : in one were three
children, in another an old and young woman, and in the third
Avere the husband, wife, and a child. None had clothes on ;
all were wrapped in unclean sheepskins. It was not easy to
arouse the man, but at last, after a good deal of shaking, I suc
ceeded. He put on a long woollen shirt, went through the
entry into another roora, and lighted a fire in a stove. I was
glad to see the wooden bedstead bare. He took from a corner
a clean reindeer skin ; if this had ever contained vermin they
had been frozen out of it. My companion offered to lie by
my side, but I declined without offending him ; he thought
we might be warmer if we slept together.
Above Utsjoki, at a distance of perhaps seven miles, I had
seen a solitary fir-tree, on the right bank of the river, in the
forest of birch ; I knew by that that the fir forests Avere not

BARKING DOGS ANNOUNCE OUR ARRIVAL. 183
far distant. Farther on there were two groves, and others be
carae more numerous on the left bank of the river. Farms
were seen now and then along the way, till we came to the
hamlet of Segelnses, the last before reaching Karasjok. Here
the house was comfortable ; but the room for travellers pre
sented a curious sight: a great number of erapty beer and
wine bottles were on the floor, with the remains of wax can
dles, tin plates, cups and saucers, knives and forks ; a looking-
glass and a few coarse colored pictures hung on the walls.
Only an old woman and two young Lapp girls were at home ;
they were rather good-looking, though one was freckled, and
both had dark-brown hair. This was a rich man's farm, for
he owned a horse. He had gone into the forest to get the
moss they had gathered during the summer for winter use.
The old lady was very much delighted with a ring I gave her,
and the girls with necklaces of large beads.
A short distance above Segelnses the Karasjoki opens into
the Tana. Ascending that river a few miles, we carae to Ka
rasjok, lat. 69° 35', and within a few miles of the longitude of
North Cape — the distance by road frora the Tana fjord or Ny
borg being about 120 railes. Our arrival was announced by
the furious barking of the dogs, and twice I was nearly over
taken by one more fierce than the others. The people had al
ready retired, and not a soul was to be seen ; but the smoke
curling over the chimneys showed that they were not all asleep.
My Lapp stopped before a large, well-built two-story log-house,
the winter home of Herr F  , the merchant of the place.
Nobody was at home, and there were no reindeer ; Herr F  ,
with his daughter, had gone the day before to the Alten fjord
Avith twenty-five of them. He generally went on the 1st of
April, and returned by the 1st of December ; but this year he
had remained later than usual. A clerk was left in charge of
the place, to whom I delivered the letter I had for his em
ployer. The hospitality of the house was extended to rae, and
I became the sole occupant of the large comfortable building,
enjoying the luxury of an excellent feather-bed, which, how
ever disagreeable in summer, is very enjoyable in this climate
in winter.

184 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
Karasjok is entirely a Norwegian Lapp village, with about
125 inhabitants ; it derives its iraportance from being one of
the chief centres for Nomad Lapps. It has a church with a
parsonage, whose pastor remains only in the winter time, and
a school that is open six raonths in the year; it is also the
residence of a lensraand. The hamlet is composed of about
twenty farms, having 20 horses, 60 cows, 12 oxen, over 150
sheep, and a large number of reindeer. From the south,
horses are found as far north as Karesuando ; from the north
southward, as far as Karasjok — thus leaving about sixty miles
of the inland country where the animal is not raised. Like
raan, horses seera to thrive in every cliraate. Here they are
used to draw timber, and are fed on hay ; but, for travelling,
reindeer only are used. The tax frora Karasjok to Bosekop
was one specie dollar aud one raark, or alraost five kronor of
the present raoney, for every reindeer. All the houses were
built of logs. The people here live, as do the River Lapps, on
the products of the dairy, by raising a few horses, fishing for
salraon, and on the increase of their deer. It is the only place
in Swedish or Norwegian Lapland where spirits are allowed
to be sold, owing to an old patent-right owned by Herr F  .
As in all small places, the arrival of a stranger created some
excitement. The school-master and the under-lensmand, both
of them Lapps, called upon me. I was particularly pleased
with the latter, named Johnsen, for his honesty and kindness :
he had received a good comraon-school education.
The lensmand, for whora I had a letter, was not at home ;
but his wife received me with true Norwegian kindness, and
insisted that I should come and take my meals at her house.
The plain log-house — some of the timbers forming the walls
measured sixteen inches in diameter, and were from the sur
rounding forests — was a pattern of cleanliness, and, with that
of the merchant, a shining example to the dirty population.
In the parlor windows carnations and roses were in full bloom,
and, as it were, looking down through the panes of glass at
the snow, and in one corner of the room stood a piano. A
family of tidy young children raade the raistress forget her
isolation.

FIR FORESTS OWNED BY GOVERNMENT. 185
To the Lapps the spring had corae, and they were all dressed
in their long woollen vadmal costumes, the women wearing no
belts at home, and thus appearing as if they wore long night-
gOAvns. The Karasjok Lapps, and those in their vicinity, are
remarkable for their fine physique, and are the tallest among
this strange people ; the school-master was probably six feet
high : the Avomen also are tall and strongly built ; they have
high cheek-bones ; f cav are fair, and raost have dark hair ; their
eyes are generally gray or light-green, but numbers have dark
eyes : blue eyes and fair hair are rare. Many of them are of
mixed blood, and have the characteristics of the predorainant
race. The raen wore square caps of bright red or blue fian
nel, lined with eider-down ; the AVomen put a wooden frame
work in their caps Avhich make them appear odd. The sum
mer dresses are generally blue ; some wear white, with bright
colored bands.
There were remarkably fine forests of fir on the banks of the
Karasjok and on the Tana, some of the trees reaching eighteen
to twenty inches in diameter ; they grow on the alluvial ter
races, gradually disappearing as the land rises, and reappearing
on the other side of the slope towards Karesuando. Once cut,
they do not grow again, as farther south, and hardly any young
trees were to be seen; under favorable circumstances two to
three hundred years are required for their full growth. The
country at large is covered by glacial gravel, the bottom of the
river-courses and valleys with stratified materials, in some places
fine sand, in others with coarse gravel. We have before said
that gold is found in these regions, but no attempt has been
made to utilize the discovery. The forests here belong to
the government, and special permission must be obtained
to fell them, the trees to be cut being marked by the lens
raand, and the people pay so much per tree. The regulations
are so strict that the places for cutting are indicated, and
even those to be used for fuel are marked every year. The
summer is too short for the growth of cereals. The climate
of Karasjok is warra in suraraer and exceedingly cold in win
ter, the thermoraeter falling soraetimes to 45° and 48° below
zero. At this time of the year, in those high latitudes, the

186 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
daily variations of temperature are very great. On the 29th
and 30th of April at Sirma the thermometer stood at 35° for
several consecutive hours during the day ; at ten p.m. it had
fallen to 1° below zero — a difference of 36°. On May 2d
the heat of the sun on a thermometer perfectly protected from
the wind sent the mercury up to 86°, while it stood at 42° in
the shade, and at night fell to 8°. These great changes were
scarcely felt, as there was no wind, and the cold increased
gradually and almost imperceptibly.
The sun was now so hot that travelling was irapossible dur
ing the day, and had to be done at night. At five in the
afternoon the snow would begin to freeze ; then the reindeer
could travel and the kerres would glide easily. Here at Ka
rasjok, on the 2d of May, the twilight was not so bright as
at Vardo on the 24th of April, it being farther south. The
darkest part of the night was a little after eleven o'clock, but
even then one could see to read. Jupiter and Venus were
seen till about half-past one, but no other stars were visible.
One afternoon, just before sunset, a funeral co-rtege passed
through Karasjok. A Laplander, who had come from a long
distance, was leading a kerres, to Avhich was attached a decked
one — the coffin — and at some distance behind a young Lapp
woman followed. These two people came from Gjusjavre,
a farm about sixty-three miles distant, to bury an old man,
who had died at the very ripe age of ninety-six. The next
raorning I followed the procession to the grave; three extra
raen, having cords and a saw, with the raan and woraan, com
posed the party. The winters are so severe in Lapland, and
in many parts of Scandinavia, that the ground is frozen to a
considerable depth, and is as hard as a rock ; in the autumn,
therefore, a deep comraon grave is dug, in Avhich the dead are
deposited until the spring, when they are reraoved to their re
spective family burial-places. As the cemetery was near by
we walked slowly, talking until we came to the gate. The
tops only of three wooden crosses could be seen above the
snow; on one of these was written, in large coarse letters,
M. I. D., Avhich probably meant Marit, Ivor's daughter. The
planks that covered the pit, to prevent the snow from filling it.

A BURIAL. 187
had been removed, and at the bottom were seen four coffins ;
these were decked kerres, the extremities of which had been
saAved off. They also sawed the ends off the one we had
brought, lowered it down, and replaced the boards over the
grave ; but not before each of us had thrown a little earth on
the coffin, and engaged in silent prayer.

188 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER XVI.
Out of a Dilemma. — Reindeer procured. — Nils Piersen Gjusjavre. — Leave Karas
jok. — An Unruly Reindeer. — Travelling on the Karasjoki. — AssebagU. — Sleep on
the Snow. — Difficult Driving. — Gjusjavre. — Nils's Hospitality. — Good-bye to
Gjusjavre. — A Warm Sun. — Deep Snow. — Birch-trees in Bloom. — Lapps' En
campments. — Au Interesting Conversation. — Lapps in the United States. — The
Alten River. — Birki. — Kautokeino in Winter. — The Place crowded. — Moving
Season. — Toilet of Baby Lapps. — Hetds of Reindeer. — A Fine Sight. — Reindeer
and Lapps. — Departure from Kautokeino. — Game on the Way. — Suajarvi. —
Arrival at and Departure from Karesuando. — A Hearty Welcome at Kuttainen.
— Songamuodka. — An Honest Fellow. — Arrival at Pajala. — The First Rain of
the Year.
Nils Piersen Gjusjavre, Avho had come with the funeral
party, had agreed to take me to Kautokeino. Herr F  's
clerk was as delighted at ray getting out of ray dilemma as if
he was to undertake the journey himself. " I know the man,"
said he, " and he is reliable. The price, ten dollars, is dear ;
but when he reaches his farm he will be obliged to send far
to find the reindeer." I knew that I should have to pay
dearly all the way, as each would tell how rauch he had re
ceived ; raoreover, the season of the tariff had passed, and
travelling had become bad, and had to be done at night ; why
should they not try to make a good bargain, so long as it
did not araount to extortion ?
The distance to Bosekop is about 130 miles ; and the fare,
during the post season, one dollar, and one krona for every
three reindeer. There are ih.vee fjeldstuer (houses of refuge),
two of which are inhabited. The distance to Kautokeino is
about the same.
The lensmand's wife would not let rae go without tAvo or
three loaves of bread she had baked specially for me ; and be
fore getting into my pulka insisted that I should take a cup
of chocolate. Nils Piersen Avas tall, but not full blooded;

AN UNRULY REINDEER. 189
there Avas something so pleasant about his face that I liked
him at once. His maid, Avho had accompanied hira, was a
good specimen of the Mountain Lapp — small, wiry, and strong.
The reindeer Avhich Nils drove was a powerful and magnifi
cent animal Avith superb horns, but it had been lately trained,
and Avas still wild and unruly. The one the girl had and
mine were also splendid creatures, and well broken to the
harness. My luggage and the girl went in the same kerres ;
we had no spare animal. Nils led ; his reindeer started wildly
and at great speed, but would not follow the furrowed track.
Two or three tiraes he made a sudden turn back, and would
then run across the river, and Nils had to get out and lead
him for awhile. The Avild course of the leader made our deer
unruly, and as we could not proceed in that way, we decided
to let the girl lead. We attached our kerres to each other,
that of Nils being the last; his reindeer would not follow,
but went ahead, knocking my kerres against the first one,
the force of the contact often threatening to throw me over.
Once or twice the legs of the deer carae into ray sleigh. I in
sisted on having the order changed, each vehicle being free.
The unruly brute was harnessed to the girl's kerres, and Nils
Avas to lead her reindeer. This way was no more successful,
for the girl could not raanage the creature, not being strong
enough, and she was thrown over several tiraes. Nils, wlio
had now rested, took hira in hand again, and finally his wild
capers and the poAverf ul hold of his driver tired him out, and
he became manageable.
We glided swiftly over the frozen-crusted snow, our course
being along a well-beaten track on the Karasjoki River ; the
banks were fianked with terraces, and the hills were clad with
leafless birch and large fir trees. A few miles higher up the
river was Assebagli, with its nuraerous hay -houses. Here
many Lapps frora the haralet of Karasjok corae in suraraer,
on account of the fine hay which is kept for the horses. A
streara, the outlet of the small lake Cejnojavre,* fiowed into
the river at this point. Farther up we left the Karasjoki
' Javre or jarvi.

190 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
and ascended the Jesjoki, another of its affluents. The fir-
trees had become scarcer, and looked like sentinels watching
over the country and the forest of birches which they over
hung. We stopped and allowed the animals to graze, making them
fast by long cords, as we were afraid they would wander from
the place in search of moss. Most of the reindeer belonging
to Lapps will not eat moss that has been gathered, as they
have not been trained to it. Nils and the girl were exhaust
ed, for they had hardly slept for three days. I covered my
face Avith a mask and fell fast asleep on the snow, resting two
or three hours.
No more furrows were seen, though now and then we could
perceive the traces which Nils and his funeral cortege had
made on their way to Karasjok. At times our track was near
the icy banks of the river, and great care was necessary to pre
vent our sleighs from sliding and going down in the deep
cracks of the ice, under which we could hear the water rush
ing. The numerous boulders in the stream and the rapids
made the ice so uneven that we could not follow the river
bed. After a few miles we entered the Gjusjavre, a narrow
lake of which the river is the outlet, on whose banks was the
farra of Nils Piersen ; it is about sixty-three miles from Karas
jok, and we had been seventeen hours on the way. The coun
try is undulating, and the scenery bleak and dismal ; the suoav
was several feet deep, and over it appeared the leafiess birches,
among whose branches the wind sounded raournfully, and be
yond the frozen lake the farra looked very lonely. It Avas
snowing when we arrived, but the few fiakes that fell Avere
fine and light, for it was 5° below zero.
There were fourteen old, weather-beaten, queer log-houses in
the place, sorae supported by pillars several feet high, and all
with earth-covered roofs. Several of them belonged to the
Lapps, and were used as storehouses. Near the farm-house
was the little Vuodasjoki. The dwelling-house was quite com
fortable, composed of two good-sized rooms, divided by a large
hall, where firewood, shoes, fur garraents, and other clothing
were hung or laid at random. In one room the family and

HEALTHY INHABITANTS AND LARGE FAMILIES. 191
friends lived, and it presented a lively appearance all day long.
A bright fire Avas burning in the open fireplace under a large
kettle full of reindeer meat. Lapps were seated on the fioor,
dressed in fur and skins, some eating, others smoking. At
night the guests slept anywhere on the fioor.
Nils's wife was much older than himself, and apparently
a half-breed between a Lapp and a Finn ; he had also a tall,
grown-up daughter, rather handsome ; both were dressed in a
loose, coarse, blue woollen garment of vadmal, described be
fore. A Avoman nearly ninety years old, the widow of the
man avIio had been buried, was living Avith the family.
I Avas under the impression, before visiting this part of the
country, that the long-continuous daylight or dark short days
must degenerate man ; I found the contrary ; the farther north
I travelled in Norway or Sweden the raore healthy seemed the
people, the larger the farailies, and the greater the nuraber of
births according to the population ; these reaching in Troraso
thirty -four and one -tenth, and in Finraarken thirty -six and
three-tenths yearly, for every thousand inhabitants. It is not
uncommon to see a faraily of fifteen and eighteen children by
one wife, and soraetiraes, though rarely, twenty to twenty-four.
Fish and railk are evidently good diet for the increase of the
human race. I met many people living to a great age, show
ing them to be strong men and women.
On ray arrival the raother and daughter raade a general
sweeping of the house, and the guest-room was thoroughly
cleansed ; the fioor and the windows were also washed, the ar
ticles scattered about were put in their places, fresh reindeer
skins from the storehouses and new hay were put on the bed,
snowy white sheepskins were spread over it, and numerous
nets hanging about were put in a pile in the corner. A very
hot fire was kept up in the stove in order to dry the fioor
quickly. Four cows, ten sheep, au ox, and one calf composed
the live-stock of the farm ; Nils also possessed a herd of rein
deer. Besides, he had a sraall store, and sold to the Lapps
flour, coffee, sugar, salt, tobacco, and raatches, and bought from
thera skins, shoes, and gloves. He was a wide-awake and ener
getic man. " There is good salmon-fishing and fine shooting

192 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN,
here," said he ; " there are plenty of ptarmigan, and I wish
you would come and stay with me."
The clear water of the lake, the pretty little river Vuodas
joki, the grassy slopes, the beautiful foliage of the birches, and
the long undulating hills were no doubt picturesque, but the
mosquitoes would destroy all comfort in the suraraer. I could
not drink sufficient railk or coffee, or eat reindeer raeat, cheese,
or butter enough to please this good-hearted, generous felloAv.
The Lapp visitors also had a lively time, for Nils had brought
with him from Karasjok some spirits, and after a glass or two
they seemed pleased with theraselves and all the world.
This farra was a rendezvous for the Mountain Lapps, who
liked to come and rest and smoke for a few days; they would
bring their food with them, and at night sleep on the floor.
Their wives and children would also come, and were sure to
be welcomed at the farm. I did not wonder that Nils had a
host of friends.
On the 4th of May I left Gjusjavre with Nils. The day
was cloudy, the thermoraeter standing at 15° above zero, con
sequently a capital day for travelling. The dogs followed us
in spite of the vociferous shouts of recall. Our course at first
was on the Vuodasjoki, where the animals went very fast;
then, leaving the streara, we skirted the Lappojavre, about
1200 feet above the sea -level, the ascent having been very
gentle from the fjord. The snow Avas perforated everywhere
with deep holes which the reindeer had raade to get at the
moss. The surface looked as if it had been roughly ploughed,
the holes having been partly refilled by the wind. The heat
of the sun had begun to tell on vegetation in spite of the
depth of the snow, which Avas in that district about five or six
feet, and yet the birches Avere in full blossom.
We had reached the top of the plateau dividing the Avater-
shed of the Alten and the Tana rivers. The Laplanders were
wandering with their herds, walking on snow-shoes, the dogs
keeping the reindeer together: they Avcrc moving to ncAV
pasture-grounds, Avhei'c the snow had least depth, or where it
had been partly bloAvn away.
In one place we met a family on the raarch, some of the

INTERESTED IN MY HOST'S STORY, 193
women carrying their babies on their backs in the Tcatkem
(cradle), and leading the luggage animal at the same time ;
then a family coraposed of an old man, three women, and sev
eral children, who had recently arrived, and had just put up
their tent. Farther on I carae to another encarapraent. The
reindeer that had been drawing the luggage had been unhar
nessed, the children were walking around on their snow-shoes
after juniper and dwarf birch for fuel, and near by was a
large herd of deer, alraost all of which were lying in the snow.
They had corae a long distance, and were evidently too tired
to begin digging for raoss. The dogs were crouching by the
fire, apparently exhausted.
We were raade welcome in the tent, and then coffee, which
was clarified with dry fish-skin, and railk were immediately
served, and the silver spoons were taken out of a little bag.
I was astonished, as the milking- season had not yet corae;
The woman remarked that this was cow's milk, which her
mother, living in Kautokeino, had given her the day before.
" So your mother is not a Mountain Lapp," said I. " No,"
she replied ; " but I have raarried a Mountain Lapp, and I
have to follow the reindeer ; but I often go to Kautokeino to
see ray people. I have a sister in Araerica," said she. I
thought I did not understand well. " Yes," said she again, " I
have a sister in Chicago; her name is Ella. She raarried a
raan frora Troraso, and they have emigrated to Chicago. My
mother will give you her address when you go to Kautokeino."
I was much interested in the statement. While she talked she
was busy washing the cups and spoons with water from snow
which had been melted in an iron pot over the fire. After
wards she took some sugar from a little chest for my especial
use, cracked it with her teeth, and filled the cup to overflow
ing ; this they always do, for they dislike to appear stingy.
As I left she said, " Do not forget to go and see my sister,
and tell her that we are all well, and that God is kind to us.
God bless her ! is often our prayer."
I saw her sister in Chicago in the winter of 1878. No one
would ever think her to be a Lapp ; her comely dress, her
black eyes, dark hair, and high cheek-bones did not show it.
VOL. II. O

194 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
Her husband Avas a tailor, and they lived humbly but com
fortably, and the piety of her northern horae had followed
her to her new one. Several Finmarken Laplanders have mi
grated to America, where they call theraselves Norwegians.
Sorae have become rich ; one, especially, who lives in a brown-
stone house, and has a large store. Many of the Lapps are
well educated, and some are merchants and teachers in Nor
way ; they are very intelligent and successful in business, and
are much respected by the Norwegians.
Coming to the steep hills which led to the river. Nils stop
ped and tied our kerres together, with two of the reindeer be
hind to act as a drag. He gave rae a short stick, the end of
which I was to force into the snow, to steer by. Everything
being ready he jumped into his kerres, with his legs out be
hind, and off Ave started at great speed. It would have been
impossible to go directly down, for the snoAV was smooth and
crusted, and the kerres would have run upon the legs of the
reindeer ; we therefore descended in zigzag, I expecting at
every sharp turn to be thrown out.
We stopped at a farm called Birki, on the left bank of the
riA'er, having travelled from Gjusjavre, nearly ninety -four
English miles. The farra was composed of four buildings.
The dwelling-house was low and built of logs, with a roof
heavily covered with earth. The room was about nine or ten
feet long and seven or eight wide ; a rough chimney in one
corner ; a bed and a Avooden chest to sit upon forraed the fur
niture. The annex was built of sod, and in the entry were
Avood, skins, and nets, while the other roora was practically
erapty. Another house was built entirely of turf, and con
sisted of three rooms ; one room contained a large quantity of
moss for the cattle and reindeer, the central room AA^as erapty,
and in the third were three cows, a calf, and flve sheep ; a
huge kettle, in which raoss was softening for the cows, hung
beneath a large aperture in the roof. Two little log-houses,
supported on wooden pillars, were the storehouses, and con
tained the flour, salt-fish, skins, clothing, and the worldly goods
of the faraily. The mother and daughter fished in the river,
luoAved the hay, collected their Avinter raoss, Avent after wood.

MOVING-DAY IN LAPLAND. 195
and worked as hard as any man ; a faithful dog was their con
stant companion and protector.
It Avas late when we reached Kautokeino, and though it
Avas the 7th of May the twilight was dimmer than at Vardo
twelve days before. 1 did not recognize the Kautokeino of
summer in the winter hamlet. I could not have corae at a
better season of the year ; a week sooner or later would have
been inopportune for ray purpose. The beginning of May
here is the raoving season of the Laplanders. They were
leaving their winter pasture-grounds, in the low lands by the
rivers and woods, and were on their Avay to the higher lands
and suraraer pastures near the fjords. It was important that
they should leave before the thawing of the snow which fioods
the lower lands. Over sixty-five thousand reindeer are in the
province of Finraarken alone.
Many reindeer passed before the hamlet. The sight of a
large number moving on the vast snow-clad and trackless hills
is very fine, especially when several herds are following each
other. In the distance I often mistook them for black patches
made by the tops of the birch-trees buried in the snow, and
was undeceived only by discovering that the dark masses were
raoving forward. From the bluff overlooking the river, and
920 feet above the sea, I could see the Lapp girls and the raen
on snow-shoes urging on the herds, Avhile the dogs brought
the stragglers into the ranks, the mass gradually advancing
till it appeared in the twilight like a black cloud on the
horizon. The hamlet was full of life. In summer, as we have seen,
no one is at home. Every house was full of Laplanders,
coming to see their friends and relatives, or to leave what
they did not wish to transport, and to buy flour, coffee,
sugar, etc. They slept as usual on the fioor, on skins : the
houses at that tirae being very full, were particularly dirty,
and could not be cleaned till the crowd had left. In each
roora half a score of people had quartered themselves with
the family, where they cooked their meat and fish, the bones
and refuse of which were often thrown on the fioor ; all were
either smoking or snuffing (for they are great snuff-takers),
o 2

196 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
singing, playing cards, laughing, or talking. The welcome
to their friends was hearty, because several raonths would
elapse before they would meet again. On such visits the
guests bring their own provisions. The hospitality of the
host is unbounded concerning lodgings ; he generally receives
a large piece of reindeer meat, or a pair of gloves or shoes,
when a friend goes away. During his stay the guest treats
his host and family to coffee, and they return the compliment
with the same beverage; when they are very good friends,
the wife will bake bread for them : the principal food is rein
deer meat, but bread, butter, and cheese are also used. The
amount of coffee drank by the Laplanders is very great, the
coffee -kettle being constantly on the fire. The great bustle
in Kautokeino begins at Easter, and continues till the 10th
or middle of May.
It always amused me to see the Lapp babies in their katkem
or komse. These are raade of a single piece of wood, and are

LAPP OEADLE.

about two and a half feet long by fifteen or eighteen inches
wide, and are slung around the mother's shoulders, who often
endures fearful storms in her winter wanderings. In cold
weather an extra skin is thrown over it. The infants are kept
in these cradles most of the time till they begin to Avalk.

A LAPP NURSERY. 197
The Lapp babies were kept very clean, each being thor
oughly washed every day. Entering one of the houses, I saw
a youngster lying on a skin on the floor, crying furiously. His
mother, a tall, rather handsome woman, with dark chestnut
hair and deep blue eyes, was standing by his side, and making
preparation for the little felloAv's toilet before putting him to
sleep in his cradle. The mother had before her a large wood
en vase filled with Avarm water, in which she was dipping her
hand to test its warrath, occasionally adding sorae that was
cold. When all Avas ready she undressed the child, and, put
ting hira in a long oval wooden basin or Avash-tub, spread on
it a cotton sheet ; she then laid hira in the sheet, the sturdy
felloAV yelling lustily all the time, when she sprinkled water
over him, which acted like a charm, and he stopped crying
at once ; she washed him all over with her haud, and then
rubbed him dry very gently. The cradle was covered at the
bottom with fine, soft, well-dried lichens, over Avhich a little
cotton sheet was spread. The babe, stark naked, was laid in,
the sheet turned down, with a coarse piece of vadmal and
sheepskin over it ; the whole was made fast by a cord laced
through holes on each side of the cradle. This process did
not entirely suit him, and he kept on crying till all was fin
ished, and he Avas quieted by being nursed. Every day in
suramer the child went through the same process, which kept
it free from vermin.
Late in April and early in May is the reindeers' calving
season ; the period of gestation is thirty-three weeks : the lit
tle ones are either carried or put into a sleigh. When the
reindeer coavs call for their young they utter a peculiar grunt,
Avhich is answered by the calves. Many oi* the animals had
already dropped their horns. The large ones resembled those
of stags, but they are smaller : the reindeer is clumsier than
the deer, with stouter lirabs, shorter head, and a larger and
wider rauzzle, raore like that of a cow ; the hoofs are broader
and much larger. The hair is gray, very coarse and thick,
especially in winter, and sometimes two inches in length ; the
color is much darker on the back, and almost white under the
belly ; the young are lighter-hued than the adults. The color

198

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

often varies considerably among different herds, and frequent
ly by this the ownership can be known.
The reindeer are never housed, for they like cold weather
and snow. Food is never given them, and they will not touch
the moss that has been gathered, unless brought up to do so.

NOEWEGI.VN LAPP.

They often will not even raise their heads as you approach
them, and remain quiet when the Lapps pitch their tents,
as we have seen. Some years prove unfavorable to their in
crease on account of the amount of snow, Avhieh prevents them
frora digging for food ; the herd then becomes Aveak and ema
ciated, and raany die. The spring is also a bad tirae for them ;
the snow melts during the day and a thick crust forras at

SPEED OF REINDEER. 199
night, so that their feet break through, causing lameness and
disease. The horns of the males, which often Aveigh forty
pounds, attain the full size at the age of five or six years, those
of the cow at about four years. The time of dropping the
horns in a herd varies from March to May ; in the adult ani
mal they attain their full size in Septeraber or at the begin
ning of October. After the age of eight years the branches
gradually drop off. The shoulder-blades appear a little high,
occasioning a slight hurap or protuberance. Without the rein
deer the Laplander could not exist in those northern regions :
it is his horse, his beast of burden, his food, his clothing, his
shoes, and his gloves.
Doraestic reindeer are a curious admixture of wildness and
tameness. In some respects they are greatly superior to other
cattle ; in a herd they ai-e A-ery easily managed ; they usually
keep close together, and in the winter season reraain Avhere
they have been left to feed. When on the raarch, with the
help of dogs, they go in a solid raass, and a herd does not scat
ter unless wolves are after them ; but in summer they often
wander a long distance when left by themselves, as is often the
case. When harnessed they become uneasy and distrustful,
and great caution has to be taken not to startle them. Often
trained reindeer, like horses, become refractory or vicious and
very difficult to manage, and then the Lapp shows his skill.
In rutting time the meeting of two herds is very imposing,
the bulls of each herd often advancing to charge each other.
The speed of the reindeer A'aries very rauch according to the
time of the year, October, November, and December being the
months in which they are fleetest, as then they are fresh from
their summer pasture ; the cold weather strengthens them, and
they are not exhausted from digging the snow, not yet veiy
deep, to procure their food. The rapidity of their gait de
pends much on the state of the surface. If this is well packed
or crusted, and if previous furrows have been made, they go
very fast. Much depends, too, upon the distance, and whether
the country is hilly or not, with a long range of slopes. On
the rivers, over well-packed suoav and a good track, the ani
mals can go twelve or fifteen miles the first hour, and doAvn a

200 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
long mountain slope twenty railes, and even raore. They can
travel five or six hours without stopping ; the first hour rap
idly, the second raore slowly, and towards the fifth or sixth
quite slowly, for by that tirae they require rest and food.
Early in the winter, when they are in good condition, one can
travel with a swift reindeer one hundred and fifty miles in a
day, where the country is not very hilly and the way good,
and easily enough one hundred miles ; the colder the weather
the greater is the speed : seventy or eighty miles is a good
average, but they were slow at the season of which I write.
From Kautokeino to Karesuando the country I had crossed
in suramer was left to the eastward. Tirae was so precious
that I did not dare to go and see old Adara Triumf, and Kris
tina his wife ; besides, Henrik Pintha, my guide, was in a hur
ry, for he knew that no time should be lost. We crossed the
plateau dividing the waters of the Alten from those of the
Muonio, the hills being sparsely clad with birch ; and again, as
in the summer, we passed over that part of Finland Avhich is
wedged between Norway and Sweden. We came across hun
dreds of ptarmigan on the route; they were losing their white
feathers and turning gray, as also were the hares.
The Lapp is naturally a hunter, and from his youth knows
how to handle a gun. Often after a heavy fall of snow he
pursues the wolf on his snow-shoes and overtakes it, as the
animal cannot run fast through the soft raass, and it is either
shot, speared, or clubbed. In the North are nuraerous foxes,
of which there are several varieties — the red, the Avhite, the
blue, and the black ; the latter becomes tipped Avith white,
and is then commonly knoAvn as the silver fox, Avhile the blue
becomes white in winter. The bears are superb, and vary in
the color of their fur, some being black, but generally of dif
ferent shades of brown. Birds of prey are not uncommon —
among them the celebrated hunting falcon {Faico gyrfalco);
this bird is very rare ; but the finest of all is the royal eagle
{Aqtiila chrysaetos). There are several varieties of owls, in
cluding the snow-owl {Strix nyctea). The Swedish statistics
for the province of Norbotten alone show that during ten
years the government paid a jircmium on 257 bears, 437

SHOOTING PTARMIGAN. 201
wolves, and 787 gluttons. These Avild aniraals are quite cora
mon in Norway. There had been killed over 5000 reindeer,
and a large number of cows and sheep.
Our reindeer were not in the least afraid of guns, remaining
perfectly still while the birds were shot from our kerres. The
air was so rarefied, and the firing of our pieces made so little
noise, that I thought they had been scantily loaded, until I saw
the game fired at, a good distance off, fall dead. The birds
were so little frightened that they would allow us to approach
to within a few yards of them. The number of ptarmigan
within the arctic circle is enormous ; in Kautokeino alone the
Lapps often trap and carry to the coast over ten thousand.
When the sun began to thaw the snow Ave stopped at one of
the lonely farms found in these northern wastes, on the banks
of a small lake called Suajarvi, and bought a few ermines
that had been trapped the night before. As we descended the
slopes towards the Muonio fir-trees once more raade their ap
pearance. We crossed the river, and after a journey of twenty-
four hours without sleep we reached Karesuando.
On the 10th of May I left Karesuando for the south. The
weather was very stormy, snow falling heavily. My pesh, or
fur dress, too warra the day previous, was corafortable now.
Large herds of reindeer were met on the Swedish side, and
now and then Laplanders with their baggage. Like the men
the women walked, some carrying babies, who were carefully
protected from the cold. These were the last Laplanders I
was to see on this winter trip. I had already met over 60,000
reindeer ; in a short time they would be unable to draw
sledges, and the luggage would have to be carried as the en
graving (from a photograph) represents, and the animals led
in the manner I have described in the first volume (pages 131,
132). In the midst of the storra I reached Kuttainen. I had to
stop at the farm of good Ephraim Person, AA'ho had helped me
so rauch on the journey across the raountains frora Karesuando
to Norway. The reader raay remeraber how he cared for rae
then — how he deprived himself of his own bear-skin for ray
sake, for he had an idea that I suffered in that great storra. I

202

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

had promised to raake him a visit on my return, and I could
not pass the noble fellow's home Avithont saying farewell.
The Avelcome was hearty, and nothing was too good for me.
The haralet was ceraposed of ten or twelve farms, with about
eighty head of cattle, six horses, and a large number of sheep.

EEINDEEE AND PACK, WITU LAPP DKIVEE.

The ice cracks and breaks were already numerous, and in
many places the river was unsafe, though the snow Avas still
deep on the surface. The sun was warm, aud raelted the upper
crust, and the water filtered through. Nuraerous detours had
to be made to avoid the dangerous places. Ephraim's horse
often floundered in the soft mass, though at night the ther
mometer stood at 22°. As it now became hazardous to travel
with a horse, Ephraira and I had to part.
I stopped at Songamuodka, where fortunately the farmer
had reindeer at home. Here I had still another illustration
of the great honesty of the people. More than an hour after
I left the farra the next morning I heard loud shouts behind,
and saw a man coming toAA^ards us as fast as he could on snow-
shoes ; he Avas in a dripping perspiration, for the surface Avas
in a condition to make Avalking very fatiguing. He brought

APPROACH OF SUMMER.

203

rae ray gold Avatch and chain, Avliich I had left under ray pil
low; the honest fellow had corae eight or ten miles to over
take me. I had sorae difficulty in raaking hira accept a small
sum of raoney for his ti-ouble, and I succeeded only by show
ing that I paid hira for his loss of time, and not because he
returned what did not belong to him.
I journeyed south as far as I could, fearing every day the
breaking of the ice on the river. We had for a short tirae
stopped wearing our winter shoes, they being only good for
cold dry weather, when the surface is
crisp, otherwise the skin becomes Avet
and soft. The summer foot-covering
is raade of leather prepared against
raoisture, and is of the same shape as
the others, having a band to fasten
above the ankle.
On the 17th of May 1 crossed the
Torne, and breathed freely when I
reached Pajala and the high-road.
There was at least four feet of
snow in the surrounding forest, but
it was fast disappearing at the time
of ray arrival; and near the hamlet
the fields were already bare. Dur
ing the day the mercury reached 45°
and 48° in the shade, and 86° and
88° in the sun ; the nights were still
cold, the thermometer marking 20°
above zero, but every day the weath
er became milder. On the 22d of
May it snowed, but the flakes were
large and damp. On the 23d it
rained, the flrst rain of the year, a
thick mist falling all day, with the thermometer at 42°. This
day was' the advent of spring, which comes on quickly.
I had about a month to spare before the flrst steamer of the
season would come to Haparanda. I could noAv converse in
Finnish, though not so fluently as I wished, and I accordingly

LAPP STJAIMEU SU0E8.

204 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
wandered among the hamlets of the kind and hospitable Fin
landers. I was no longer a stranger among them, but was
everywhere treated like a friend and brother, and I learned
raore of their ways and language in that month than I had
during all my preceding journeys or visits to that part of the
country.

OLD-TIME BATHING. 205

CHAPTER XVII.
Primitive Customs. — " Evil to Him who Evil thinks." — An Arcadian People. — The
Sauna or Badstuga. — The Custom of Bathing every Saturday. — My First Steam-
bath. — A Remarkable Sight. — Running for the Badstuga. — Inside the Badstuga.
— Terrible Heat. — Raising more Steam. — Cold Water. — Flagellating each other.
— Leaving the Badstuga. — The Delightful Sensation in the Cold Air. — Rolling
on the Snow. — Back to the Farm. — Visitors to my Roora. — A Primitive Scene.
The primitive custoras described in this chapter exist in
the most northern part of Sweden, Norway, and Finland, and
are still met in some out-of-the-way places in other provinces,
more especially in the region between the Gulf of Bothnia
and North Cape, though formerly they were prevalent farther
south, and probably all over Scandinavia. Sorae of thera
showed an innocent simplicity, which at flrst astonished me.
What struck me most forcibly was that the people did not see
the slightest iraraodesty in thera, and there was an utter un
consciousness of any harm ; which brought to my raind the
English motto, Honi soit qui mal y pense — " Evil to him who
evil thinks ;" and on the principle of this raotto the reader is
requested to read this chapter. I ara siraply describing things
I have seen during my travels. These customs, like many
others, will disappear, and I wish to put on record what will
soon be a thing of the past.
Had I been only once or twice on a visit -to this country,
unless staying A'ery long each tirae, I should have been en
tirely ignorant of many of its customs. What I here state is
not from hearsay, but the result of my own personal observa
tions, which verify the fact that the more reraoved people
are from the great centres of civilization the raore priraitive
they are, the more strange their habits, and the raore honest
and simple their ways. Wherever I went I was received with
demonstrations of joy or shouts of gladness. "Welcome back.

206 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
Paulus, from among the Lapps !" were the first words that
greeted rae at the farras or hamlets where I had tarried sev
eral times before. My way of living among the people as if
I were a native, had won their confidence and esteem. In
various ways they had heard who I was, and if any fear had
ever come into their minds it had been entirely banished.
Only as a friend and brother can one enter the privacy of the
household, and get an actual insight into their real life.
My usual experience ran thus : I express the wish to take
a warm bath, and at once the preparation begins. The cow
house undergoes a complete transformation ; the great iron
pot, encased in solid masonry in a corner, used to cook food
for the cattle, is thoroughly cleansed and filled with Avater;
when this has become heated the fire is extinguished ; every
thing has been thoroughly swept, and new straw is spread
around for rae to step upon, so I shall not soil ray feet: 1
am just in the kettle when a stout girl of twenty summers,
more or less, jumps in, dress and all, saying, "Paulus, I have
come to help you." The words are hardly spoken before she
begins to rub me with soap in a raost forcible manner, and
then to switch rae with birch-twigs ! The only thing to be
done is to consider rayself her little brother, and I submit in
the meekest possible manner. I have been subjected to the
same treatment, minus the switching, in Stockholm and other
places, but by woraen old enough to be my grandmother.
One of the most characteristic institutions of the country is
the Sauna (bath-house), called Badstuga in Swedish. It is a
small log-house, built very tight, with no windows, having a
single aperture aboA^e to let the smoke out ; in the centre is
an oven-like structure built of loose stones, under which a fire is
kept burning till they are very hot ; then the fire is extin
guished, and the Avoraen clean the place thoroughly of ashes
and soot, the sraoke-hole having been in the mean time closed.
A large vessel filled Avith Avater is placed within ; a number
of slender twigs, generally of young birch-trees, are put into
it, to be used as switches. The bath-house stands by itself,
and at some distance from the other buildings, for safety in
ciiBc it should take fire. Every Saturd.iy evening, summer

BATHING EN FAMILLE. 207
and winter, all over that northern country sraoke is seen issu
ing from these structures. It is the invariable custom for all
the household, on that day, to take a bath, for the work of
the week is ended and the beginning of Sunday has come.
After washing, all put on clean linen and their best clothes.
The stranger, the passing inhabitant of the cities, does not
bathe with the people, for they are shy : he may have his bath,
but all alone. It Avas only when they had corae to regard me
as one of themselves that I was allowed to accompany them ;
then the neighbors, old and young, would often come to bathe
and keep company with Paulus. I remember well my first
bath en familie. One Saturday afternoon a couple of young
fellows, friends of raine, as the girls were giving the last
touches in cleaning the badstuga, shouted, " Paulus, take a
bath with us to-day !" " Yes, do," exclaimed the rest of the
company, among whom were the father and raother of the
large family. The weather was piercing cold, the ground
covered with snow, and I was glad that the bathing-place was
within a stone's-throw of the dwelling. From my window I
noticed several maidens wending their way with rapid steps
towards it, in a costume that reminded me of Africa, minus
the color. I did not wonder at their speed, for the thermome
ter stood below zero. Soon three rather elderly women took
the same route from a neighboring farra, but the two oldest
were clothed with old skirts around their waists ; other young
women followed, and all were quickly lost to sight behind the
door, which they at once shut. They must be about to hold a
sort of levee in the bath, thought I. Several aged men then
made their appearance, followed in quick succession by young
er ones, and children of all sizes ; none had on any clothing
Avhatever, and they also joined the throng inside.
When I saw the field clear, I thought it was time to raake
a rush for the building. I emerged from my room at a run
ning pace, for I was dressed as scantily as those who had pre
ceded me. I hastily pushed the door open, and was welcomed
by the voices of all the company as I closed it behind rae. The
heat was so intense that I could hardly breathe, and I begged
them not to raise any more steam for awhile ; the sudden

208 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
transition from twenty degrees below zero to such an atmos
phere overpowered me. As my eyes became accustomed to
the darkness of the place, by the dim light which came
through the cracks of the door I began to recognize the faces
of my friends. There were more people than usual, for all the
neighbors had come to have a bath with Paulus. At first I
seated myself on one of the lower benches built around, after
awhile getting on the other above. More water was poured
on the hot stones, and such a volume of steam arose that I
could not endure it, so I jumped down again, and reclined in
a half seated posture in order to breathe more freely. In a
short time I was in a most profuse perspiration ; again and
again steam was raised by pouring water on the stones, till at
last the hot air and steam became extremely oppressive.
Now and then we poured water on each other, which caused
a delightful sensation of relief ; then with boughs every one's
back and loins were switched till they smarted severely. "Let
me give you a switching, Paulus," a fair-haired damsel or a
young fellow would say ; " and after you get yours I want you
to give rae one." This operation is beneficial, as it quickens
the circulation of the blood in the skin. In about half an hour
the people began to depart, first subraitting to a final flagel
lation, after which cold water was poured upon the body; then
all went horae as naked as they came. As I emerged from
the hut the sensation was delightful, the breathing of the cold
air imparting fresh vigor and exhilarating my spirits ; I rolled
myself in the snow, as did some others, and afterwards ran as
fast as I could to the farra-house. In some places the men
and women, as if by agreement, do not return together, and
the old women wear something around their loins as they go
to or come from the bath. I have gone out of the bath-house
with the mercury at thirty-two degrees below zero. It is not
dangerous to walk a short distance, as long as the perspiration
is not suddenly and entirely checked.
On returning one does not dress at once, for he must get
cool gradually and check the dripping perspiration. I had
hardly been fifteen minutes in ray room, when suddenly the
door opened (the people here, as is the case in most parts

AFTER IHE BATH. 209
of Sweden, never knock at the door) and the wife, who had
dressed herself, carae in, and was not in the least abashed at
ray appearance ; she talked with me as if I were in ray morn
ing-gown. The door opened again, and a grown daughter en
tered, and then another. I began to fear that all the neigh
bors were coming, as if to a reception. Though they did not
seem in the least troubled, I was ; I seated myself on a chair,
hoAvever, and for a short time we carried on a rambling con
versation ; they then left, and I dressed myself and went into
the stuga, or family room. At first I could hardly keep my
countenance, for the sight was extremely ludicrous. There
was a crowd of visitors, neighbors of different ages, and among
them three old fellows — a grandfather, father, and an uncle —
who were sitting upon one of the benches with legs crossed,
minus a particle of clothing, shaving themselves without a
looking-glass. Nobody seemed to raind them, for the women
were knitting, weaving, and chatting. This was certainly a
scene primitive enough. When the raen had finished shav
ing clean shirts were brought, and they then dressed thera
selves while seated. The men usually shave once a week,
oftener when courting, and always after the bath, for the beard
then becomes soft.
These people are the only peasantry in Europe who take a
bath every week, and they are very healthy. I never failed
to bathe every Saturday. , , The custom described has come
down from olden times ; the Norsemen called Saturday Lauga-
dag (washing-day), later Logadag, and at present Lordag, but
it is now chiefiy observed in the regions of Scandinavia which
Ave had crossed during the winter. Such habits can prevail
only in a neighborhood remote frora cities, where simplicity of
manner has not been tampered with or modified by what are
called higher types of civilization, and where a dissolute life
is entirely unknown. From childhood the people have gone
to the bath together, and their children are brought up in the
same way ; innocent of guile, they no raore imagine harm in
what they do while at the bath than if they sat down together
at dinner in the customary way ; still more, the statistics show
no more moral a people in Europe: After the bath the wom-
VOL. II. P

210 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
en wear high-necked dresses, and are very particular in their
deportment; no debased woman would be tolerated in any
hamlet in that part of the country.
The custom of proraiscuous bathing is a very ancient one
in Europe, and prevailed extensively araong our forefathers.
Csesar, in his Commentaries, speaks of the Germans of his
time as follows : " Those who remain chaste the longest bear
the highest reputation araong them; this they consider in
sures stature to some, to others manliness and strength. * * *
They all bathe promiscuously in rivers, without distinction of
sex, and wear skins or slight coverings of deer hides, a large
part of the body being nude ;"* and Tacitus, Pomponius, and
other Latin writers add their testimony to the chastity and
purity of the people.
Here, as in many districts of Norway and Sweden, the fam
ily, including even the men-servants, sleep in the same room ;
the women wear garments with long sleeves, and rest with
their skirts on, while the men remain partly dressed. A man
servant would feel himself greatly insulted, and believe the
people of the farm thought him an unworthy person, if a
special roora were set apart for him, and no one would be Aril-
ling to serve such a raaster. Servants, especially the girls, ex
pect to be treated as raerabers of the family. No farmer in
those regions would venture to break through this long-estab
lished custom of equal rights, for it would raise a great outcry
against him, and he would appear proud and haughty in the
eyes of his neighbors. I asked the wife why she had not a
special room for her working-man. He answered me him
self : " Do you think I would remain in a family where I was
treated like a dog, and sent to sleep in a room all alone, as
if I were a villain ? No, indeed ; I will sleep only where the
faraily does."
We raust not be too hastv in conderanina: what we have
* " Qui diutissime impuheres permanserunt, maximam inter suos ferunt laudem :
hoc ali staturam, ali hoc vires nervosque coufinnari, putant. Intra annum veto
vicesimum fojminse notitiam habuisse, in tui-pissimis habent rebus : cujus rei nulla
est occultatio, quod et promiscue in flumiuihus perluuntur, et peUibus aut parvis
rhenonum tegimentis utuntur, magna corporis parte nuda."

"HONI SOIT QUI MAL Y PENSE." 211
outgrown, or never known. Every day we witness customs
which are not according to our ideas of propriety. We at
times see a mother nursing her babe in public, but that cer
tainly does not make her a woraan deserving of reproach. In
considering the subject we should bear in raind that if rauch
has been gained by our advancing civilization, our ancestors
Avere free frora raany of the vices which are the outgroAvth of
some civilized habits.

p 2

212 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,

CHAPTER XVIII.
The Advent of Spring within the Polar Circle.— Rapid Transition. — Farmer's busy.
— AVhit-Sunday. — Emotional Rehgion in Church. — At Sattajarvi once more. —
Whit-Monday. — A Warm Welcome. — Leave Sattajarvi. — Touchmg Partmg.—
The Farm of Varra Perrai. — Welcome Back everywhere. — A Fine Singer. — End
of the Winter Journey. — Arrival at Haparanda.
The spring was coming now with rapid strides, although
earlier than usual. On the 29th of May the highest tempera
ture was 63° in the shade and 104° in the sun ; on the 30th,
66° in the shade and 105° in the sun, with about the same
temperature on the 31st ; and the last three nights had been
Avithout white frost, which the people said was over. The
grass in sheltered spots by the rocks was green; swallows
raade their appearance, and cuckoos were heard in the woods.
These were the forerunners of suramer, and the people hailed
their appearance with joy. The birches were yet leafless, but
the buds were ready to burst forth, and the pines and firs
had already started with new life. People Avere busy every
where, ploughing and manuring the fields. At the farm of
Varra Perrai, about nine railes south of Pajala, I saw on the
29th of May the men ploughing, and a mother, two daughters,
and rayself sowed barley. The Varra Perrai farra was said
to be raore forward than those around Haparanda. The last
week in May had been a hard one for the farraers. When
Saturday carae all were well-nigh exhausted, and the day of
rest Avas waited for as the day of relief.
May 31st Avas Pingst (Whit-Sunday). I went to church at
Pajala, and witnessed there a striking scene of emotional relig
ion. As the pastor Avas preaching a Avoman became greatly
excited ; she wept, shouted, and fell into a sort of hysterical
fit ; she thought her sins would noA^er be forgiven, and that

ONCE AGAIN AMONG OLD FRIENDS. 213
she was doomed to everlasting punishment. Those near her
tried to pacify and comfort her, but she only laid her head
upon their shoulders and wept bitterly. During this time the
clergyman was not in the least disturbed, but continued his
sermon, in which there was nothing at all emotional or sensa
tional. Even here persons sometimes become insane from
religious excitement.
After the service I wended my way southward to the hara
let of Sattajarvi, where I was received with expressions of
great joy. The natives of this place and rayself had formed
a mutual liking for each other frora the first, and there is no
village in the far North which has left more pleasant impres
sions of priraitive simplicity and truthfulness on my mind than
this one. These were the people who, in 1871, wanted Kris
tina to go to America with me, and who, this last winter, had
brought Elsa Karolina to me as my interpreter and guide over
the mountains to Norway. Father, mother, sons, and daugh
ters were all very glad to see me again, and often would say,
" Paulus, you are no raore a stranger among us, and Ave think
of you as one of ourselves." "Come dine with us to-day,
Paulus," one would say, " for we have very nice fish, Avhich
we have just caught." (Enormous pike are found in those
small lakes ; they sometimes attain the size of four feet ; there
was a case in Kajana Lake where a raan was bitten by one
while swimming.) "Come and dine with us to-morrow,"
another exclairaed ; and as I passed by, " Come in, Paulus, I
have cooked a cup of coffee for you," would call some kind
poor mother who could not afford more. Still others would
bake fresh bread and make Avaffles, and the milk that had the
thickest cream Avas sure to be for Paulus.
Monday was also kept as a holiday ; no one was in the
fields, and, as in many other hamlets, the young people en
joyed such innocent pastimes as blind-man's-buff, tag, singing
in chorus, leaping, and a little flirting. I joined in the amuse
ments, and was glad to find that none of the young farmers
could leap as far as I did.
On the 4tli of June there was quite a commotion in the
place, for I was to leave that morning. They had come

214 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN,
from far and near to say good-bye, and many were to accom
pany me along the road for some distance ; this was, indeed, a
great compliraent, for at that tirae of the year every hour was
precious and could hardly be spared. When the horse and
cart were ready, I was greatly touched by their demonstrative
friendship — the warm clasping of hands, and the tears flowing
down the cheeks of several mothers. They were really sorry
I was leaving, and I felt sorry also. As we started the people
shouted, " Farewell, Paulus ! farewell, Paulus !" " Happy jour
ney to America !" " God be with you, Paulus !" " Corae again
to Sattajarvi — come again !" As I passed the farm of Varra
Perrai, the farmer Johan and his wife Brita Kajsa, Avith Eva
Mathilda, their daughter-in-law, and the two daughters, Brita
Kajsa and Sophia Helena, were watching for me. " Come in,
Paulus, corae in !" they cried ; " you cannot pass Varra Perrai
without eating," and I had to tarry awhile ; and so it went all
the way. Wherever I was known I Avas requested to stop,
either to take a raeal or drink a cup of coffee, and was en
treated to remain for the night, so that the journey of a
couple of days took two weeks. Silver rings, buttons, scarf-
pins, brooches, photographs, were given to me as mementos
and keepsakes ; and these, however humble they Avere, I have
kept as souvenirs of this simple people.
Remains of heavy drifts were coraraon on the hilly coun
try between Kunsijarvi and Ruokojarvi. At Ruskola I was
warmly welcomed by Grape and his wife. Farther on I spent
a Sunday ; in the afternoon we all met at one of the farms,
and a young girl, eighteen years of age, delighted us with
her sweet voice ; she sang song after song, and I thought it
was the sweetest and most pleasing uncultivated A^oice I had
ever heard, which is saying a great deal for one who has trav
elled in Sweden.
The journey was drawing to a close. The last few days
impressed rae with the sudden change of the season ; the
heavy raass of snow disappeared very quickly, especially on the
protected flelds. Vegetation seemed to grow visibly ; three
days ago there were no leaves on the birches, noAv their buds
had opened, the meadows were green almost all over, nature

SUMMER ARRIVES SUDDENLY. 215
smiled everyAvhere, and one could hardly credit the sudden
transformation. The spring burst into suraraer at once ; and
the birds heralded joyously the advent of the short and beau
tiful season of that northern land. The cattle were let loose
in the woods by the roads, to feed on the dry old grass of
the preceding year ; insect life appeared, and I even heard the
hissing sound of the snok {Coluber Imvis) — a snake two or
three feet long, of a grayish color, which I had never met but
in summer — as it craAvled from under the stones which still
protected a little patch of snow.
On the 16th of June I was once raore in Haparanda. My
winter journey was ended. Only a few snow-drifts, protected
by the rocks, were here to be seen ; on many of the fields the
barley had now germinated, and the birches, with their young
leaves, presented a charming sight. We were but a f cav days
in advance of the season I had spent here in 1871, when on
ray way north.
We have wandered together, dear reader, in summer and in
Avinter in these high latitudes, and I have gained ray object
if I have been able to give you a correct idea of " The Land
of the Midnight Sun."

216 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER XIX.
Dalecarlia. — Remarkable Characteristics of the Dalecarlians. — Independence of the
People.— Their Beautiful Traits. — Their Simple Life. — Children Tolls. — Falun.
— The Copper-mines. — Reception by the Governor. — A General Letter of Intro
duction to the People. — From Falun to Leksand. — Thrifty Small Farms. — The
Crowded Inn at Leksand. — A Friend in Need. — A Cordial Reception at Broms. —
Superb Specimens of Manhood. — Costume of Leksand.
There is a beautiful province in Central Sweden, lying
north of the great lakes, called Dalecarlia,* with nearly two
hundred thousand inhabitants. The people are peculiar and
primitive, adhering with great tenacity to their old customs
and national costume, and are the handsoraest of the peninsu
lar population of Scandinavia. I know of no peasantry or
people in Europe who present a prouder bearing or possess a
raore independent spirit. They are manly, honest, and kind-
hearted ; proud of their ancient history, and of the warlike
deeds of their forefathers, who, under the lead of Engelbrekt
the Stures, and later led by a Wasa, expelled the invaders un
der whose yoke Sweden groaned. They are fond of equality,
addressing every one, even their king, by the prefix du (thou).
Their representatives in the Diet corae to Stockholm dressed
in the costume of their parish, and go in like manner to the re
ceptions of the court. Entailed estates are unheard of among
them ; the torpare of the south of Sweden and the husmand
of Norway are not knoAvn. Perfect social equality has always
prevailed. Every parish has its chiirch, and each has a cos
tume which distinguishes its people from all others ; one
of their peculiarities that struck me Avas that the people of
one parish very seldom marry Avith those of another. They
are imbued with a deep religious feeling, and frora their earli-

* Called by the Swedes Dalarne.

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE DALECARLIANS. 217
est childhood are taught to do right because it is right, and
to hate wrong because it is wrong ; and as, in their poor coun
try, there are no great temptations to pursue wealth, they fol
low the even tenor of a siraple and virtuous life. Though
shy of strangers, their confidence won, they are kind and warm
hearted. To gain their affections one must put aside all pride
and presumption, and, in a word, be like one of them. Quick
to appreciate a kindness, they are grateful for even the sraall
est token of friendship. When admitted to their intimacy
and regard, a stranger is heartily welcomed to their homes ; he
has hardly entered before the wife or the daughter is busy
arranging on the table a simple meal of the best they have,
of which he is earnestly requested to partake, and entreated
to eat more. I was constantly hearing such expressions as,
" Paul, you raust eat raore ; you must drink raore ; you must
not be bashful." The best room and bed were invariably for
rae. They are not rich, for the farms are sraall and poor in
raost districts, and the farailies are large ; but they are very
thrifty and happy in their siraple life, and merry when the
.hours of work are over. Often on a summer evening one
hears in the distance the sound of music (an accordeon or a
violin), for the young men are on their way frora farm to
farm to serenade the maidens. On Sunday morning crowds
are seen driving or walking to the large parish churches ; in
the afternoon visits are made ; and in the evening the young
folks often indulge in innocent plays or in a dance.
One should visit the country between the middle of May
and raidsumuier, for after that the hamlets and farras are de
serted, and especially should one spend Sunday there. To the
tourist the four most interesting parishes are Leksand, Rattvik,
Mora, and Orsa, for in these the people have preserved a raore
Arcadian simplicity ; I know of no other province in Scandi
navia that has left on me a more delightful impression. The
landscape in Dalecarlia is soft and sylvan ; many of the hills
are clad with woods, and streams and lakes abound; there are
also large tracts of swamp-land covered with forests. As you
drive through the charming and diversified district, and lux
uriant fields dotted by farm-houses, you are suddenly arrested

218 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
by a gate built across the road to prevent the cattle from stray
ing, and to protect the distant fields and meadows ; as you ap
proach, the children, who have been on the watch, are seen
coming to open the gate, and as you pass they range them
selves in a line, trying to look unconcerned, but really greatly
excited. Their looks seem to say, " We have been here all
day long, and you have not been obliged to get out and open
the gate yourself." On giving them a few ore as a reward, an
amicable scramble occurs for their possession ; but there is no
quarrelling, and an honest division takes place.
Three days before midsummer I found myself in the clean
little city of Falun, with a population of about six thousand ;
it is the chief town of Dalecarlia, celebrated for its copper
mines, which have given the Ian the name of Stora Koppar-
berg (big copper hills). These mines are araong the oldest in
Europe, and are known to have been worked for more than six
hundred years. In a document of King Magnus Smek, seen
in the Museura at Stockholm, dated 1347 — which begins, "Mag
nus, King of Norway, Sweden, and Skane " — these mines are
mentioned as very ancient, and certain privileges are granted
to the miners. In old times the raaster rainers considered
themselves equal to the highest of the land, and were called
bergsadel (mining nobles) ; many of their properties were ex
empt from taxes, except in raen or horses for the king's army.
At that period the miners came out early on Saturday, bathed
theraselves, and on Sunday followed their bergsman to the
church. It IS said that at weddings or feasts each wealthy
noble carae with his retinue of miners. Some of the mine-
masters were very rich, and their horses are said to have been
shod with silver.
The city of Falun is comparatively modern, and was found
ed by Queen Kristina in 1641. Charles XI. took great interest
in the well-being of the miners, and in their spiritual welfare.
He composed a prayer expressly for the mining population.
After his death, Charles XII. sent a number of texts, chosen
by his father, as the subjects most fit to be preached to them,
viz. : Gen. iii. 17-19 ; Deut. viii. 7-9 ; Deut. xxxiii. 19 ; Gen.
xlix. 25 ; Deut. xxxiii. 25 ; Job xxii. 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 ;

KINDNESS OF TUE GOVERNOR. 219
Job xxviii. 1, 2, 3, 9, 10 ; Psa. xxiii. 4 ; Psa. Ixvii. 6, 7, 8 ;
Psa. xc. 17; Psa. xci. 11, 12; Psa. cvii. 21, 22.
A museum connected with the mines is well filled ; and
the mines themselves are well worth visiting, as the raost im
proved machinery is used. The fumes from the smelting-house
destroyed for a considerable distance all kinds of vegetation ;
but the same infiuence, as a corapensation, has hitherto pre
served this region frora the cholera and other pestilences.
I tarried awhile in the city, in order to present ray letter
of introduction to Herr De Mare, the Governor of the prov
ince, who received rae with the unpretending but none the
less earnest Swedish raanner, and expressed much pleasure at
raeeting me before his departure, on a vacation, for the south
ern part of the country. Like myself, the Governor was of
French descent ; he was also of Huguenot extraction. His
accomplished consort, like himself, spoke English and French.
" When do you intend to start ?" inquired he. " Iraraediate
ly after ray visit to you," said I. " We cannot let you go
without taking a quiet Sunday dinner with us to-morrow," he
said, adding, " it will give me time to write sorae letters of
introduction for you ; and then we can talk quietly together,
and I may perhaps give you some good advice." I gladly
accepted the kind offer, saying that I should feel obliged if
the letters were addressed chiefly to the Dalecarlian bonder, for
I wanted very rauch to become acquainted Avith them. The
next day I spent some delightful hours at his residence. Three
friends had been iuA'ited to raeet rae, and I found, as I always
did in Swedish gentlemen's homes, that affable simplicity of
manner which refinement and good-breeding only can give,
and whieh makes the stranger feel at ease at once. When I
left, the Governor handed me five letters, explaining for whom
they were ; and, besides, gave rae a general letter of introduc
tion to every one in the province :
As the bearer hereof, Mr. Du Chaillu, from New York, world-renowned both for
his travels of exploration (undertaken especially into the interior of Africa), and as
an author, has the intention of going through Dalecarlia and spending some time
there, in order to acquire a knowledge of its nature, country, and people, it is
therefore my friendly request to every one of its inhabitants, whom Mr. Du Chaillu

220 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
may solicit, to extend to him all the assistance and all the information he may re.
quire for the attainment of the object of his visit, and to make his sojourn in Dale
carlia an agreeable one to him. ,
XJa jjiLAaS*
Governor of Stora Kopparbergs Liin,
Palch, June 22d.
The high-road to Leksand, just after leaving Falun, presents
for some distance a very barren aspect, because of the masses
of mineral refuse piled there for centuries, and the absence
of vegetation due to the fumes of sulphur; but after awhile
the landscape becomes cheerful, and all the raore beautiful
from the sudden contrast. The farras are nuraerous, their
buildings painted red with white borders ; the houses are not
large, but look tidy and thrifty, being often surrounded by or
chards of apple-trees, and little plantations of hops ; luxuriant
fields of wheat, rye, barley, oats, potatoes, flax, and hemp, and
wooded hills gladdened the eye. Many vehicles of all sorts
and carts loaded with goods were passing along the dusty road.
Hours had to be spent at the post-station by those who had
not ordered in advance a f orbud, and even by some who had :
it was amusing to watch those who upon their arrival expected
to get a horse or two at once, and AA'ho with smiling faces
raade the request : the sudden change of countenance when
told that they would have to Avait six or eight hours, or per
haps till the following raorning, seemed not to indicate satis
faction. The perfume of that beautiful little flower, the Linnaa bore
alis, at this time fllled the atmosphere ; wild raspberries and
brambles lined the roads, and the yellow anemone and other
wild-flowers enlivened the landscape. After driving through
a charming country for about thirty-five miles I crossed the
Osterviken on a fioating bridge, and alighted before the com
fortable inn at Leksand. The place Avas croAvded by Swedish
tourists who had come to see the midsummer festival, and I
could obtain only a small room with tAvo other travellers.
Knowing the dread Swedish people have of open windows and
draughts for ventilation, and being certain, as the weather was
very Avariii, that no fresh air Avould be alloAved to enter at
night, I concluded that, as the choice of evils, 1 would rather

FIRST MEETING WITH DALECARLIANS. 221
sleep under a tree, wrapped in a blanket, or in a hay-barn. I
declined, therefore, the accommodations at the inn, and the
landlord expressed himself as being very sorry not to be able
to provide for me.
In my dilemma I suddenly remembered that one of ray let
ters of introduction was to a farmer bj' the name of Broms
Olof Larson, who, I had been told, lived not far frora the
church. In Dalarne, as in Norway, every farm has a name,
but here it is put before the narae of the person. His house
Avas near the bridge I had crossed ; so, leaving ray luggage at
the inn, I inciuired the way there. Wheu I reached the place,
I was shown up-stairs, and found myself in the midst of a
gathering of Leksand farmers, who impressed me at once by
their noble bearing ; they seemed astonished at my sudden ar
rival, as they knew rae at once to be a foreigner. " Is Broms
Olof Larson here?" I inquired. A handsome man came to
wards me, and said, " Here I ara." I gave him the letter of
the Governor, after reading which he shook hands cordially,
and bade me welcome to Broms, the name of his farm. "Wel
come to Dalarne," they all said, after I had been presented to
each. Swedish punch and wine were served, and in the course
of conversation I mentioned that I could not get a room at the
inn. " You shall have one here," said Broras Olof. " Where
is your baggage?" "At the gastifvaregard." "Wait a lit
tle," said he ; " we will go with you ; we have some business
to transact relating to the affairs of our parish."
Such was my first acquaintance with Dalecarlia. I could
not help admiring the men who surrounded me, as I was in
troduced to one after the other, for sorae of the handsomest
specimens of Dalecarlian manhood were here represented. " I
have a letter for the rihsdagsmam, of the present Diet, Liss
Olof Larson." " There he is," said ray host, pointing to a man
six feet three inches in height, and stout in proportion, with
beautiful and expressive eyes, and honest face. Near him
stood his father, who had forraerly been riksdagsraan, still
taller — within a fraction of six feet four inches. Broras Olof
himself was of medium height, with regular features, bright
eyes, and exceedingly intelligent expression of countenance.

222

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

Soon afterwards Broms Olof, the riksdagsraan, and I were
on our way to the inn for ray luggage ; both insisted on carry
ing it theraselves, and no others, not even rayself, Avere allowed
to touch it.

MORA WINTEE COSTUME.

The holiday costume of the men of Leksand is sombre :
they wear long dark -blue or black coats, falling below the
knee, knee-breeches of the natural color of the hides, a Avaist-
eoat of the same material, or soraetimes of cloth, thick white
Avoollen stockings, shoes — many noAv wear the modern laced
boots — and a Avoollen scarf around the neck ; they part their

DALECARLIAN COSTUMES 223
hair in the middle, and Avear round felt hats; as they leave
the church on a Sunday in this costume they look very de
mure. On week-days they wear a long yellow leather apron,
Avhich hangs from the neck.
The Leksand woman's skirt, of a thick blue-black wool, near
ly reaches the ankles, allowing the shoes and white stockings
to be seen ; the body of the dress is made either of leather, red
wool, or silk, disclosing the white sleeves of the cheraise ; the
apron is of a bright color, with longitudinal or transverse bands.
The head-dress is ungraceful, as the cap fits closely to the head
and hides all the hair in front and back ; it is of a bright
color, with a white border ; on Sundays or festive days those
of married women are of white linen. The children, both
boys and girls, are most picturesquely dressed in canary-col
ored clothes, with little caps, from under which the hair hangs
on the back. In winter the Dalecarlians of both sexes, of the
four parishes I have mentioned, wear sheepskin coats with the
wool inside.
I was not long in making friends in Leksand. The news
spread that an American had come with letters from the Gov
ernor to Broms Olof and the riksdagsraan, and that he had
been welcomed at the parsonage, and had dined there. Those
who had relatives in America wished me to corae and see
them, and consequently it was natural that I should easily win
the regard of these kindly people, and gain a hearty welcome
during ray different visits in their country ; and if the many
hundred letters I have received in America — some of thera
breathing raost intense friendship, as the reader will see here
after — are any proof of love and regard, I can truly say that
I entirely succeeded in gaining their affections.

224 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER XX.
Midsummer in Sweden. — Gala Appearance all over the Country.— The Majst&ng,or
May-pole.— Where to be on a Midsummer-day.— Midsummer by Lake Siljan.—
The Boats coming towards the Church. — The People flocking to Church.— An
Impressive Sight. — Communion-service. — Babies in Church. — A Special Room
for Babies.— A Large Parish. — Leaving the Church.— The Parsonage at Lek
sand. — Akero.— The Farm of Knubb. — A Characteristic Room.— Going to the
Fair. — On a, little Steamer. — Good-natured Folks. — ^Mora. — A Crowded Inn-
Comfortable Quarters at a Farm.— The Parish Church of Mora.— A Represen
tation of the Devil.— Utmeland a Sacred Spot. — The Mora Costume.— The Fair.
— The Crowded Booths. — The Goldsmiths' Booths. — Warm Weather. — ^A Coun
try Show. — A Tame Bear. — A Lull at the Fair. — The People Feeding. — ^Love-
making. — A Hilarious Crowd. — The End of the Fair.
Midsummer (24th of June) is, after Christraas, Sweden's
most merry festival ; the longest days have come, and the
whole population seera to be bent on celebrating the advent
of summer. At the seaports vessels are dressed with boughs
of birch ; in the towns the horses, driving-wagons, omnibuses,
and other vehicles are clad with branches of trees ; but it is in
the country that the festival is raost popular, and there the
people fiock in great numbers towards the 2Iajstang (May
pole), which is raised in every hamlet and village. On mid
summer-eve the maidens and lads adorn it with evergreens and
garlands of fiowers, and in some districts with colored egg
shells, gilded hearts, and festoons of light paper.
On this occasion the traveller in the country sees every
where signs of gladness ; on the porches of the farm-houses,
around the windows, at the gates leading to the lanes, green
boughs and festoons are conspicuously displayed. He hears
rausic in every direction, and sees crowds of raerry dancers
around the May- poles. There are no parts of Scandinavia
where the raidsummer-day is more interesting than on the
shores of Lake Siljan, in the parishes of Leksand, Rattvik,

MIDSUMMER BY LAKE SILJAN. 225
Mora, and Orsa, on account of the great number of people
who croAvd the large churches, and the stranger should not
fail to be at one of these places for this festival.
All over Dalecarlia, on midsummer-eve, the dalkulla (young
woraan) comes with floAvers, and the dalkarl (young man) with
evergreens, to adorn the May-poles, amidst joyous shouts and
merry-making. The fervid religious nature of the Scandina
vian rural population leads them to celebrate all festivals by
first going to church.
Early morning found rae in a fir grove on a bluff over
looking Lake Siljan ; the Leksand church, though near, being
hidden from view. The Aveather Avas delightful, the water of
the lake without a ripple, and like a sheet of glass. At five
o'clock I was Avatching the boats from the hamlets rowing
along the shore on their way to the church. Many were so
distant that they appeared at first like black spots, which grad
ually became larger as they came nearer, and the nuraber in
creased rapidly ; then the raoving of oars could be seen, and
the shapes of the boats distinguished : the red bodices of the
women's dresses shone brightly as their wearers also assisted
in the pulling. As they came to the shore I saw that the
boats were thirty-five to forty-five feet in length,.and crowded,
sorae containing as raany as seventy persons. Now and then
from a boat carae a whole faraily, from grandfather to great
grandchildren, and babies in arms : all looked as demure as
Quakers as they wended their way towards the church, whith
er I foUoAved the crowd. By land, also, vehicle after vehicle
discharged its load of people, the horses being hitched around
the church. Many were seen coming on foot ; every girl car
ried in one hand a little bouquet of wild-flowers, while iu the
other was her prayer-book, carefully wrapped in a handker
chief Avhich she had herself embroidered ; this handkerchief is
thick, and frequently partakes somewhat of the character of a
small table-cloth. From her apron hung a pouch, also adorned
with embroidery, containing a lunch of bread, butter, cheese,
and a few young onions, of which the people are very fond.
The leather strings of the apron are sometimes worked with
colored wools, ending in leather tassels or pieces of gaudy silk.
VOL. II. Q

226 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
The church-yard was crowded with men and women, each
sex by itself, waiting for the service to begin — some wander
ing among the tombs to place flowers on the grave of a rela
tive or friend. On the shady side of the church, near one of
the entrances, some people were busy reading their prayer-
books while the children were playing. The scene Avas strik
ingly like that of the painting by Exner, of which I give a
copy, and no sketch could be raore truthful. The women who
were to participate in the comraunion were especially sol
emn ; they wore a peculiar broad white cap, somewhat simi
lar in shape to those worn in Plardanger as a sign of mourn
ing, to indicate that they were sorry for their sins. The
young maidens are so particular at this time that their lovers
for a week beforehand do not venture to visit them, and even
a few days must elapse after the ceremony before they are
allowed to continue their courtship.
The parish church at Leksand is in the shape of a Greek
cross, and is an imposing structure ; it is situated on the south
eastern side of Lake Siljan, near its outlet, where its white
walls, embowered in shady trees, glisten in the rays of , the
sun. About five thousand persons were in the sacred edifice,
which can seat nearly four thousand people, the Avomen and
the men apart. I was in the gallery facing the altar, in the
pew of the old riksdagsraan, who now and then showed me
Avhere I could follow the service in my book. The sight was
very impressive; during the singing the whole congregation
accompanied the organ with a fervor Avhich could not be sur
passed ; and the colors of the dress of the women, with the
sober costume of the raen, made a scene picturesque in the
extreme. The serraon was listened to Avith attention ; even
the shrill cries of several babies — of whora there were, per
haps, two hundred in the church— did not seem in the least
to disturb the worthy pastor or his congregation, who evi
dently were accustomed to that accompaniment of the service.
Mothers would often get up and go to the roora Avhich was
built especially for their use, and Avhich is entered from the
church, to minister to the wants of the little creatures.
On account of the great extent of the parish, and the large

PARTAKING OF THE COMMUNION, 227
number of parishioners, the communion is administered every
Sunday. A great many advance to the altar — an equal nura
ber of men and woraen — each sex taking half of the space at
the railing, and after partaking of the bread and wine retir
ing, with bowed heads, to their seats. During the cereraony
the whole congregation participates in chanting the old tunes
used at the tirae of the Reformation. On some occasions
only a very few people were seen at the comraunion -table,
for those who partook of the sacrament could not eugage in
the festivities of the day. At the conclusion of the service
the vast congregation retired, slowly and quietly, in a most
demure and sober raanner. Beyond the church-yard groups
were formed, greeting each other, and raany protected them
selves from the sun beneath the shade of a very fine avenue of
birch-trees. Others went to pay their respects to the pastor,
who, with his wife, welcomed all with a pleasant smile, in
quired about their farailies, congratulated some on their good
fortune, or had a word of sympathy for those who were sor
rowful, while two or three of the leading farmers were invited
to reraain for dinner. The parsonage was a fine building, sur
rounded by extensive grounds, and having an excellent view
of the river. The living was considered one of the best in
Sweden. As the parish is large, the pastor has two or three
assistants to aid him in his duties.
The people of Leksand are araong the raost thrifty and
prosperous in Dalecarlia ; their soil is pretty good, and the
farraers are quite energetic ; sorae of the raore far-seeing had
succeeded in buying in various parishes (from their more
simple brethren) large wooded tracts at comparatively small
prices : this species of property had risen stf much at one
time that some had thereby becorae wealthy, much to the cha
grin of those who disposed of their land and trees at a time
when prices were lower. The farras are raodels of tidiness ;
the houses are painted a bright red, with white borders around
the windows, and porches have tiled or shingled roofs ; nearly
all houses have a kitchen-garden, with gooseberries and cur
rants, and often an apple-orchard. The people are exceedingly
fond of onions, and every one cultivates a bed or two of these.
Q 2

228 IHE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
Before going farther, let us wander awhile among the people
of Leksand. On the other side of Sodra Noret is the hamlet
of Akero, and among its farras are Knubb, Lang, and Ersters.
Knubb may be considered a typical farra of the parish. The
buildings form a square, entered through a porch, on one side
of which is a dwelling-house, with two rooms exclusively for
guests ; opposite is the hay-barn, used for threshing grain, etc. ;
here also is a porch.
The dwelling-house proper is entered by a small hall, from
which a door near the front opens into the daughter's room.
On the sides of the hall are two doors, leading into large
rooms which form the rest of the house ; that on the left is
the dagligstuga (or family-room), in which is a large loom for
weaving linen or wool and two or three spinning-wheels ; in
one corner is the open fireplace where the cooking is done ;
also a table of plain boards, with a few benches and chairs.
In the chamber on the right, where the clothing of the family
is kept, are some chests and a looking-glass ; and on one wall,
written on a piece of paper, " The congratulation of Erik to
his wife," comraeraorative of one of her birthdays. On poles
hang numerous woven skirts belonging to the wife, many of
them new, with bodies of the dresses in bright colors or skin,
and sorae belonging to the daughters, with stockings, under
garments, white bodices, aprons, and bright erabroidered hand
kerchiefs in which to carry prayer-books to church. The girls
had taken several years to weave these, and felt great pride
in their wardrobes, the products of their own industry, which
are always ready when they are about to be married, that they
may have a trousseau worthy of their station and the wealth
of the family. Several rolls of broadcloth, to be made into
garments, the Sunday clothes of the husband and boys, and
others for the daily use of the children, are distributed in an
orderly manner; and winter garraents of sheepskin, as soft
as chamois, some trimmed with fur, have their appropriate
places. On the other side, opposite the porch, is a house, the lower
fioor of which is used as a store or larder; the upper part,
reached by steep, ladder -like stairs, is the weaving-room in

A TRIP ON LAKE SILJAN. 229
Avinter, and in summer serves for a bedroom, the beds being
generally built one above another, like the berths on ships.
Another building, which is used as stable and cow-house, com
pletes the square.
Knubb Erik Andersson, the father, is a true type of the
Dalecarlian ; his wife is Anna Mattsdotter ; the eldest daugh
ter, called after her mother, Anna Ersdotter, is a bright, blue-
eyed, good-hearted girl ; Margareta and Karin and Maria, and
the youngest of all, a fine lad, Anders Ersson, constitute the
family. At this time of the year the people were out in the woods
getting hay, but many returned on Saturday evening to spend
Sunday on the farm, to go to church, and to meet friends who,
like theraselves, came for the day.
Not far from Knubb dwelt Ersters Erik Mattsson and his
wife, Karin Mattsdotter — a fine specimen of an old couple.
Their daughter Karin had a husband in America, and two
small children at home : Daniel was a cunning boy, dressed in
canary-colored clothes ; little Anna was a perfect beauty ; no
peach ever rivalled the color of her rosy cheeks, and she was
as loving and confiding with me as if I were her papa ; Ker-
stin, the other daughter, was a strong, rather raasculine girl,
but with as good a heart as one could wish to find.
A week after midsumraer I was on my way to the fair
which was to take place at Mora. I found myself, with sev
eral friends whom I had invited to go with me and be ray
guests, on board the small steamer which plies between Lek
sand and Mora, which is situated some thirty miles distant,
on the extreme northern part of the Siljan Lake, a beautiful
sheet of water, fianked with gently sloping hills, dotted here
and there with hamlets and farras ; four parish churches are
found on its shores — Leksand, Rattvik, SoUero, and Mora.
The fair begins on the first of July, lasting three days.
The stearaer was crowded with Dalecarlians of both sexes,
and the deck was so encumbered with goods that it was with
difficulty that one could move from one part to another.
Among the passengers were a number of raerchants who were
going to the fair Avith their goods, and several Swedish tourists

230 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGUI SUN.
bound for the same place. Besides others with whom I became
acquainted was a young lady from Stockholm, full of ndmete,
who told me that she had been watching my doings with my
peasant friends ; then said, abruptly, " Herr Du Chaillu, I hke
you." I raade a bow, and asked how I had created such a
good impression upon her. She replied, "It is because you
are so eccentric ;" and for this I made another bow.
Twice we passed vast nurabers of logs, enclosed in floating
triangular frames of beams, being towed by a steamer to the
outlet of the lake ; we saw others at anchor, waiting for a
tug. Everybody seemed bound to have a good time ; and the
hilarity became general, after a certain amount of refresh
ment had been taken by almost every one on board. One of
the farmers from Mora, whom I treated to a glass of beer,
was so rauch pleased that he insisted on my coming to stay at
his farm, and offered rae, in return, a pinch of snuff. The sail
was delightful ; and as the white church appeared nearer and
nearer the young men combed their hair, and arranged it
in what they considered the most attractive way. I did not
wonder at these preparations, for the jetty was crowded with
fair maidens Avho had corae to witness the landing of the pas
sengers. Nuraerous vehicles had already arrived, and the peo
ple were lodged at the hamlets near the fair grounds, whole
families sleeping wherever there was space — even the barns
were filled by the crowd. No roora could be had at the comfort
able inn of the place, the grounds of which Avere very pretty,
with numerous sumraer-houses under the shade of which peo
ple could take their raeals or refreshraents ; and I was there
fore delighted by the invitation of Johansson, with whom I
found excellent quarters at Noret, receiving a hearty welcome
from his old father and raother.
Not far frora the landing stands the parish church, much less
capacious than that of Leksand, Avith Avhitewashed Avails shining
in the sun. It contains sorae curious paintings, among which is
a representation of the devil on a large scale, Avith a tremendous
horn. This picture gives, I suppose, a good idea of what the
people thought the monster Avas like at the time it was painted,
and of the popular estimate of the prince of darkness.

THE SHRINE AT UTMELAND.

231

At a short distance, on the other side of the river, is Utme
land, so dear to the Swedish heart, for there the great Gus
taf, founder of the Vasa dynasty, was hidden in a cellar by
Matts Lai-son's wife. When those avIio were seeking his life
arrived the wife Avas brewing the yule ale, and she placed a
vat over the trap-door leading below. The vault is the only
thing that remains of the old farm-house, but over it a shrine
has been built, enriched with historical paintings, one of which
is by Carl XV. It was with no little emotion that I descend
ed into this small cellar, as I recollected the history of the
monarch and his descendants who have thrown such a halo of
glory around their country's name — not among the least the
great Gustavus Adolphus, the hero of the Thirty Years' War.

THE 0ENA6STITGA.

Every place where Gustavus Vasa was sheltered or hidden
Avhen he came to Dalecarlia is pointed out with pride. There
is a house in Ornas, on Lake Riinn, south of Falun, still stand
ing, in which Gustavus slept overnight ; but its owner, Arendt
Persson, an old friend of his, tried to betray him to the Danes,
when again he was saved by the traitor's wife, Barbro Stigs-
dotter, who provided hira with conveyance to the pastor at
Svardsjo, where he was safe for the tirae being.
The Mora costume is picturesque; the women wear red

232 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
instead of M'hite stockings, and shorter dresses than those in
Leksand, and evidently are not averse to showing the sym
metry of their limbs. The skirt is of black homespun wool,
often bordered with yellow, and the waist is red ; the apron
is generally of the color of the skirt, with two or three bright
bands at the bottom. On the head they wear a neat handker
chief of calico, nicely ironed, and take great pride in properly
tying the knot under the chin. The women part their hair
on the back of the head, and the two locks thus formed are
wrapped their whole length with ribbons — of a white color
in the case of wives, and red for the maidens — and these are
bound around the top of the head, forming a sort of crown.
The raen wear a bluish coat, shorter than that of Leksand,
knee-breeches, dark-blue stockings instead of white, and on
Aveek-days the vest and long apron.
Very early in the morning the road was crowded with ve
hicles loaded with people, and with pedestrians on their way
to the fair; by ten o'clock at least three thousand were on
the ground, and the scene presented a most animated appear
ance, and very striking from the variety of costume. Over
the doors hung skins, shoes, etc., as signs ; there were also
hardware and dry goods stores, the latter crowded Avith pretty
girls in search of the printed head-kerchiefs worn in Mora and
Orsa. Groceries, wool, and even salt pork from America, were
bought and sold. The centre of greatest attraction was the
jcAvellery booths, where thousands of silver rings, plain and
ornamented, Avere displayed ; for if there is anything a dal
kulla likes it is to see her fingers well adorned with rings. A
large assortment of brooches, thimbles, spoons, and fancy arti
cles was a tempting sight. FeAv girls bought gold rings, as
they Avere too expensive for their slender means. I gave
away hundreds of silver rings to my fair friends. At the inn
I kept open table, inviting many to partalve of refreshment,
and before the evening had over a hundred invitations to dif
ferent farms. The heat of the sun Avas intense, and the cool
places where lager and wines Avcre sold Avere literally packed
Avith people. A popular feature Avas a large tent, Avhere a big
bear Avas on exhibition.

A LIVELY SCENE AT IHE FAIR, 233
During the afternoon, Avhile among the horses and A^ehi-
cles, Avhere numerous groups of people were seated on the
grass eating their dinners, ray attention Avas draAvn to a young
couple commencing a fiirtation ; he ostensibly feeding his horse,
she coming to her cart close by, apparently to get something
that she had forgotten. Furtive glances were cast around to
see if they were watched, for they would have no peace among
their neighbors if they were suspected of courting: heretofore
somebody had always been in the way, and their eyes only
could meet, speaking tender messages ; now they could have
a little talk. When she said good-bye, the Avords icke sd brdd-
tom (not so hasty) made her tarry as long as she could without
exciting suspicion. But he will come some Saturday evening
(the lover's day) to her father's farm, and show the maiden
that her beau of the fair has not forgotten her.
Spirits being sold at Mora, many raen had gone to that
place to fill their flasks or bottles to take home; but their
good intentions were not carried out at the proper time, as
the contents had disappeared during intercourse with friends,
who in their turn thought themselves bound to return the
compliment ; the consequence was that soon they all began to
feel the effects, and before the close of the day King Alcohol
had most of the men as his subjects ; but though exhilarated,
and some even intoxicated, they were good-natured, and the
younger raen wanted to make love to all the girls they met,
acting as if they were going to kiss them, and often walking
with their arms around the maidens' waists. 1 noticed that
none were so far gone as not to be able to distinguish the
good-looking ones ; but the dalkulla is no weak creature — she
is fully equal to resisting approaches in a joking way, or sud
denly disappearing among the crowd. It was a jovial and
characteristic scene, with hardly any disagreeable features —
certainly with none of the quarrelling, coarseness, and boister-
ousness usually accompanying such a festive occasion in more
favored southern climes. There are only two fairs in a year,
and every one wanted a good time. By seven o'clock the peo
ple began to leave, and by eleven the place was deserted. So
passed the first and by far the more lively part of the fair.

234 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,

CHAPTER XXI.
A Wedding in Dalecarlia. — Arrival at Westanor. — Welcome at Liss. — ^Preparations
for a Wedding. — The Larder well stocked. — Drinkables abundant. — The Bride
groom and the Bride, — Great Number of Guests. — Lodging the Guests. — My
Quarters. — Dressing the Bride. — Leaving for the Church. — The Procession. —
Imposing Sight in the Church. — Many Bride'smaids. — The Nuptial Ceremony. —
Return to Westanor. — Congratulating the Bride and Bridegroom. — The First
Meal. — Dancing. — A Lull. — A Week of Festivities. — End of the Wedding-feast.
— Giving Presents to the Bride.
On a bright midsummer-eve I found myself again in Dale
carlia, and in the parish of Leksand, very weary, having travel
led night and day from TJraea Lappmark, over a distance of
nearly six hundred miles. I arrived just in time for a wed
ding to which I had been invited, and which was to take place
the following day. Towards the close of a brilliant sunset I
entered the haralet of Westanor, and alighted before the farm
of Liss. The tall forms of the old riksdagsraan and his eldest
son appeared on the threshold, with warra words of welcome.
Carl, another son, and expectant groom, said, " Paul, I was
afraid that you would not be here for my wedding." I as
sured him that I should have been greatly disappointed had
I arrived too late for the ceremony.
I was no stranger at Westanor and the adjacent hamlet of
Smedby, and all ray friends were glad to see me again. Not
the least among them Avere dear old Timgubb Ole Andersson
and his good Avife Brita, Avith their young daughter Anna, and
the good people of Shaft, Olars, Nygard, and other farms.
A wedding in Dalarne, when the betrothed belong to the
farailies of wealthy bonder, is no small affair, especially if the
parents of the bride and bridegroom rank high socially among
their neighbors and in the parish. Invitations are extended
personally, by members of the respective families, about two

THE WEDDING PREPARATIONS, 235
weeks before the ceremony, and each guest gives a small meas
ure of malt to make ale for the feast.
For several weeks preparations had been made at the Liss
and Olars farms for the coraing festivities, aud knackebrod
had been baked in large quantities ; for the last two or three
days several girls had busied themselves in making soft bread.
Parties had been sent fishing, and returned with the results
of their trip. Many sheep and an ox had been slaughtered ;
there was also an abundance of bacon, butter, and cheese :
barrels after barrels of potatoes were lying in rows. Looking
at the huge piles of bread and other provisions, I wondered if
it would ever be possible for the guests to eat all. The drink
ables, which constitute so important a part of a wedding-feast,
had not been forgotten, and a large supply was on hand. A
great deal of dark and strong ale had been brewed and was
stored in barrels, near which were nuraerous kegs of branvin,
sherry, port-wine, and Swedish punch, and bottles without end.
Though I knew from former experience how much would dis
appear, I felt sure that nothing would run short on this occa
sion. One of the ancient customs still prevalent is that called
"forning." It consists of each guest bringing or sending a
contribution in eatables or drinkables to help carry on the
feast. Puddings and cakes of all kinds had been sent by
neighbors and invited guests. A large arbor of branches of
birch-trees had been erected in the yard of each farm, to pro
tect the guests from the rays of the sun, and arches had been
built over the gates and doors.
Liss Lars Olsson, the father of the bridegroom, was not only
a wealthy farmer (said to be worth about twenty or thirty
thousand dollars), but, as we have seen in a former chapter,
had been for many years one of the riksdagsmen who repre-
.sented Dalecarlia ; his eldest son, Liss Olof Larsson, had now
succeeded him, and was considered a very able raan. He was
a bank commissioner of the Diet — an office of great trust — and
also nam.ndeman (juryman).* No two raen were raore re-

* In each harad (judicial district) there are twelve jurymen, elected by the land
owners of the district, who, with the district judge, decide certain cases.

236 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
spected in Leksand. The father of the bride, Olars Anders
Olsson, a neighbor, was also very much esteemed, and the
owner of a large number of acres of good land and forests.
The wedding was particularly agreeable to the two families,
for a sister of the bridegroom had raarried a brother of the
bride. Generally the wedding-feast is given only by the father
of the bridegroora ; but in this case, as it was to be on a grand
scale, and the father of the bride was a neighbor, the festivi
ties were to be held at the two farms at the sarae time. One
could hear continually the rattling of plates and dishes, the
clatter of knives, forks, and spoons, and the tinkling of glasses
sent by neighbors and friends, for no one household could
furnish crockery enough for such an entertainment. Tailors
and shoemakers had finished their work, especially for this
occasion, and the last preparations were taking place.
It was no easy matter to lodge all the guests ; but tbe
neighbors came forward, and every dweUing in the hamlet
was turned into a lodging-house. There is such pride in re
gard to hospitality shown to honored guests, that each family
did its best; the finest linen sheets and pillow-cases were
taken frora the storehouse, for it would never do for people to
return home with unpleasant remarks on the hospitality of
Farmer So-and-so, or to be able to call him and his wife mean
people. A small bright-red house, containing a single room,
was assigned to rae during the week of the festivities. The
furniture consisted of two fixed beds, opposite each other, with
a window between ; but, on account of the great number of
guests who had arrived from a distance, a temporary couch
also had been put in.
I was the first to retire, and had hardly done so when the
bride and the sister of the bridegroom carae in, and said,
" Paul, are you asleep 1" On ray saying no, each added, " I
hope you will have a good tirae during the wedding;" aud
taking off their shoes, and partly dressed, they lay down to
rest on the bed opposite raine. This Avas true Dalarne hos
pitality — a mark of honor and respect. I was trusted as if I
were a Dalecarlian, for the girls said, " We come here to keep
you company ; we do not want you to feel lonely, for it is not

A WEDDING COSTUME. 237
pleasant to be all alone in a house." Soon after a dalkarl,
and a handsome dalkulla to whom he was engaged, came in,
and both lay, fully dressed, on the other couch, and fell asleep
in each other's arms.
At three o'clock I was awakened by the bride, who had
risen and was putting on her shoes ; she was going to the
house of her future father-in-law to begin her toilet, as several
hours are required for this ceremony iu Dalecarlia. I got up
soon after and asked Carl, the bridegroora, and the old folks if
I could go into the roora where the bride was being dressed,
and all at once said, " Certainly, Paul, you can go."
The girl was seated on a chair, surrounded by several of her
companions, every one of whom was either making a sugges
tion or helping in her toilet. Then would come a pause, and
a final judgment be rendered on what had been done. In
front of the bride a looking-glass was held by an admiring
friend. Now and then the old riksdagsman's wife would
corae in to see how things were progressing, and to remind
the party that the hour for going to church was near at hand.
The wedding costume is like that ordinarily worn by the
Avomen of the parish, except that a large quantity of artificial
flowers and beads are sewed on the body of the dress ; all the
brooches that have been given the bride are fastened in front,
and for the flrst tirae she wears on her head the white close-
fitting cap which designates the raarried state. The groora
is distinguished only by a broad white collar falling over his
coat ; this, with the wedding-shirt, is the gift of the bride.
As the tirae to depart for the church approached I dressed
myself, and for this especial occasion, in the costume worn by
the men of the parish of Leksand : when I peeped into the
glass to see rayself a glow of satisfaction overspread ray face,
and, with a feeling of vanity natural to men on such an occa
sion, I really thought I was not ill-looking. When I appeared
out-of-doors a shout of delight greeted me, and they said, "Look
at Paul — he is not proud ; he is now like one of us." I had
no idea that this freak of mine would produce such a good
effect on ray Dalecarlian friends.
As the wedding-hour drew near cart after cart appeared.

238 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN,
A bridal party must be accompanied by a great number of
vehicles — the more there are of these, the greater the compli
ment to the families ; every friend is expected to come on
wheels, so that the show on the way to aud from church may
be worthy of the station of the bride. The scene in the lane
and around Liss was of a most lively character. A procession
was formed, the ex-riksdagsman with one of his married daugh
ters taking the lead ; the second carriage, drawn by two horses
¦ — a very unusual thing — contained the bride (who held in her
hand the psalm-book, carefully wrapped in a large silk hand
kerchief, which, according to custom, had been given to her a
few days before by her intended husband), the groom, and
myself: more than one hundred vehicles followed, loaded
with people. As we drove along the high-road and passed the
farm-houses many people were out to see the procession, and
I could hear them say, " Look at Paul in a dalkarl's dress."
The church of Leksand that day presented a most briUiant
appearance ; it was literally packed, and there was hardly
standing-room; even the aisles were crowded, and over five
thousand people must have been there. As the Midsummer-
day is a very popular one for weddings, six other couples were
to be united in the bonds of raatriraony. Frora the upper
gallery the view was very striking. The couples were near
the altar, and the bride'sraaids collectively nurabered over one
hundred and fifty; they were scattered in different groups,
however, instead of being near the brides and bridegrooms.
They were easily recognized by the artificial fiowers and beads
on the bodies of their dresses — although these were in lesser
quantity than on those of the brides — and by their red maiden
caps. The service commenced with a hymn of praise, sung by
thousands of voices, accorapanied by the great organ; after
this all couples to be married went under a red canopy before
the altar, where the marriage ceremony was performed with
the exchanging of rings. When all was over, the bridal par
ties and guests got into their respective carriages, and, after a
little confusion, our procession started back, the newly-wedded
pair now taking the lead, the rest following in the same order
as before.

MODESTY OF IHE HONORED GUESTS, 239
After arriving at Liss, the happy couple were congratulated
by the guests, who shook hands with the bride, she receiving
all with becoming modesty. In the mean time food had been
cooked for more than five hundred persons by the respective
parents of the newly -married pair, who were to keep open
house the whole of the week. It being impossible for all to
eat at once, the most honored guests and nearest relatives were
first invited, and I among them. Then came the usual scenes
characteristic of Scandinavia: all those specially invited kept
theraselves modestly in the yard, or in a corner of the room ;
when any name was called by the host or hostess, the person
had to be dragged to the place assigned, often with some diffi
culty, each thinking the end of the table good enough for
him : it is considered very rude to go at once. When my
turn came, I imitated the natives — I resisted manfully, and it
took five minutes to get rae to ray proper seat ; which taken, I
became as gentle as a lamb. The raothers and sisters were in
the kitchen, surrounded by servants, serving up and sending
ill the dishes ; the sons saAv to it that the guests had enough to
drink. Dishes after dishes were passed around, and all were
constantly urged to eat raore : it seeraed to be firmly believed
that on a wedding-day one can eat for hours without ceasing,
and can drink at least four times as much as on ordinary oc
casions without feeling the effects.
Among the guests were a couple having a fine farm but no
children ; and as the fish was passed around I suggested that
they should not let it go by, but help theraselves, adding that
I had come from the North, where the people eat much fish
and have large families. This was taken up by the guests in
the midst of uproarious laughter, and all shouted and urged
them to help themselves, which they did bountifully, araidst
general merriment.
I had hardly left the table, and was taking breath in the
yard, when I was seized by the father of the bride, who in
sisted on my following him to his house to take another raeal.
In vain I expostulated and resisted — eat I raust, and drink I
must ; they would not take no for an answer, and I soon had
occasion to ask myself if I could continue this way of liv-

240 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT ^UN,
ing for six days more. By seven o'clock the hamlet was de-
-eidedly exhilarated ; everybody was happy — very happy — for
all had on this festive occasion drank many times to the health
of the bride. As it was vacation, the school-house, by permis
sion, had been transformed into a ball-room ; three musicians
played on violins in one corner, and here hundreds of guests
had been invited. Drinking was indulged in ad libitum, the
young men of the respective families being the bar-tenders, and
freely giving whatever was asked for. The dancing continued
all night, the bride having to dance with every man ; but the
bridegroora, who was not in good health, was allowed to go
home, otherwise he would have been obliged to do likewise
with every woraan. The second day dancing began in the af
ternoon, and again the bride had to be present and dance Arith
her friends. She had laid aside the flowers which adorned
her bridal - dress, and instead Avore the silk handkerchief in
which was wrapped her psalm-book the day of the wedding.
On the third day there was a lull in the festivities for a
time, for many of the guests were very tired, some having
taken rest only now and then; others had violent headaches,
produced by want of sleep or excessive eating and drinking,
and were groaning under the pain. This peculiar headache is
called kopparslagare, as the throbbing pain in the region of
the temples is said to remind the sufferer of the thumps given
by a coppersmith on a vessel he is mending. I suffered some
discomfort from such promiscuous eating and drinking, for
with all ray care I could not always refuse to skai with a
friend — here with a glass of wine, there Avith beer, then with
soraething else. I stole away to a neighboring farm Avith
friends who also felt exhausted. In one room was a bed
where the mother and father lay, and I threw myself upon
the other where the daughter Avas fast asleep.
On the fourth day there was a revival, and things went on
in the old way till Saturday noon ; but nothing was wanting,
and food and drink were apparently as plentiful as on the first
day. In the afternoon the bride and bridegroom stood in the
main room of the largest dwelling-house of Liss, where the
guests, who had made preparations to return home, one after

BIDDING GOOD-BYE TO THE BRIDE. 241
another came to bid them good-bye, and thank them for the
pleasant time they had had. Every one, as he left, put in the
hands of the bride some bank-bills, which, without looking at,
she dropped into the big linen pouch hung, on that occasion,
at her side : this was the parting gift, and every guest, accord
ing to his means, gave raoney to the bride. The girls of the
hamlet had held a meeting, and all had agreed that each
should give exactly the same sum. A popular bride often
gets a considerable amount in this manner, which enables her
and her husband to begin life quite cheerfully. I thought
the custom good, and raost practical; so I made an offering,
said good-bye, wishing the happy pair long life and happiness,
and departed.

j. 11.

242 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER XXII.
Again in Dalecarlia.— On the Road to Orsa.— Pleasant Travelling Companions.—
Lof Kistm. — Vangsgiirde.— Skradder Anders.— Welcomed at Kaplans.— Palack.
— Marts.— The Church Hamlet of Orsa. — Consequences of giving a Gold Ring.—
Costume of Orsa. — Dalecarlian Names. — The Church of Orsa. — A Handsome
, People. — Exquisite Complexion of the Young Women.— Orsa a Poor Parish.—
The Stock of a Farm. — Hamlets away from the High-road. — My First Introduc
tion among them. — We are great Friends. — Their Loving Letters. — Then- great
Kindness. — Three Friends. — Large Numbers of Widows. — The Farm of Guns.—
Leaving for the Fabodar.
One year had passed away since the wedding of the old
riksdagsman's son, and I found myself again in Dalecarlia.
The fair at Mora was over, and once more I was on my
way to Orsa — and to this day there are no parts of Scandina
via more pleasantly remembered by me. There was in the
vehicle Lof Kistin, Per's dotter, a poor widow with a small
farm, having raore children than heads of cattle, who could by
working hard just get along ; but, in spite of poverty, she was
kind-hearted, and her weather-beaten face was the image of
honesty. The other was Smids Kisti, from Stenberg, a pleas
ant girl, who was returning with the proceeds of a sucking-
pig, barely two weeks old, which she had sold at the fair for
six kronor — a pretty good price. She was delighted at the
thought of swelling the little sura by the proceeds of the fare
she was to receive for driving rae : she had taken up poor
Kistin, who had come to the fair all the Avay on foot in the
raorning. We chatted raerrily as Ave drove along ; it was late, so the
road was not crowded, and we met only a few woraen — some
carrying their babies slung on their backs by leather bands —
or gayly- dressed girls, and young men on the way to their
farms. As I journeyed towards Orsa, to see ray old friends, I

A WARM-HEARTED FARMER. 243
noticed everywhere the remains of midsummer festoons hang
ing over the porches, and the faded flowers on the May-poles.
After a drive of eight railes we left Lof Kistin before her
humble home ; as we parted she said, " Paul, no cattle are
on the farms now ; but I have a milch cow at home, and the
children to-morrow will bring you sweet railk and creara."
A little farther I entered the haralet of Vangsgarde, where,
on ray former visit, I had been stopped on the highway, while
passing his blacksmith shop, by Skradder Anders Hansson,
who OAvned a fine farm here. He shouted, " Amerikanare,
stop your horse — sleep here ! you will be welcome on ray
farra; I have caught some hicei fish in the lake, and you will
have a good supper. I have a brother in America, and I want
you to stop Avith rae. Please tarry, even if it is only for a
night; I have a fine horse, and a good house close by, and I
Avill take you to-morrow where you like ; I will also give all
the milk you can drink." I could not resist his earnest in
vitation, and ray cart wheeled to his farm, araidst the joyous
shouts of those around. I was treated royally by Anders and
his wife Kirstin. Unfortunately, she spoke only the old dal-
sprdket (language), and it was very hard for rae to understand
her. Anders was one of the best-hearted fellows I ever raet.
Soon we were quite intimate. There was nothing too good for
me, and I passed the night in a little house by the porch lead
ing to the lane. Skradder was a fair farm ; but, besides, ray
friend was an excellent blacksraith, and his trade yielded him
a good living ; he had the reputation of being one of the best
fishermen, and also soraewhat of a hunter. He invited rae
to come and visit him as often as I liked. " Paul," said he,
" I will build an upper story, and there will be your rooms,
and you will have a fine view over the Orsa Lake."
But this year the large gate leading into the yard of Skrad
der was barred ; nobody was at home. Continuing my Avay, I
entered Holn, an adjacent haralet, and alighted before Kap
lans, where ray friends. Per Persson and his good wife Kisten,
Lars's dotter, received rae with open arras, their faces beaming
with joy, for they had been looking for rae for some days,
having heard that I was in Dalarne; little Kisten, a sweet,.deli-
E 2

244 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
cate child, who was as fond of me as I Avas of her, soon climbed
into my lap, and their sons. Per and Hans, were asking me all
sorts of questions. Skradder Anders had left word that he
was obliged to go to the meadoAvs to mow the hay, and that
I must not fail to come and see him there.
In ray turn I inquired for my friends : who had been mai'-
ried, and who had died since my last visit ; what were the
prospects of the crop ; while all the tirae little Kisten was
sitting on ray lap, and showing me the photograph I had sent
to her parents. Meanwhile the mother was preparing a hearty
raeal for rae, and, as I was expected, they had dried some ncAv
hay for ray bed, which was to be in the loft of the barn.
Fresh sheepskins and homespun blankets had been spread
over, and when I retired they all said, "Paul, no fleas wiU
come and trouble you." Early the next morning Lof Kistin
arrived with a pail of sweet milk.
Many a farmer has a trade. Skradder Anders, as we have
seen, was a blacksmith ; Kaplans Per was a tailor, and had
earned quite a reputation for the making of leather knee-
breeches. His small house and farm were neat, and his Arife
an excellent house-keeper ; they were so fond of me that they
wanted me to take a meal at least every two hours. These
were, of course, very simple, for no cloth covered the plain
board ; the frying-pan was often put on the table, the butter
was served in its pail, to make sure that I should have enough,
and there was bread for at least ten persons ; they all seemed
delighted that they could give me milk, cream, wild raspber
ries, and other things they knew I liked.
Contiguous to Per Persson's farm was another of the same
narae which belonged to Hans Olsson, whose family was com
posed of Anna, Lars's dotter, his wife, a son called Hans, two
daughters called Kirstin and Anna, and a young school-master.
Near by was Paiack. Here the husband was dead, and had
left a widow with six children — four girls and two boys ; the
three eldest daughters, Anna, Kerstin, and Margit, were grown
up, and helped in the varied work of the farm ; while the
younger children, Karin, Anders, and Lars, assisted in their
Avay. I admired the tAvo little felloAvs : they never grumbled

THE CHURCH HAMLET OF ORSA. 245
at what they were told to do, and seemed always eager to help
their mother and sisters.
Another farm, almost facing Kaplans, on the other side of
the road, was Ullars, belonging to Per Hansson ; and farther
than Skradder were the farms of Borbos, Bruks, Mangsa, Bogg,
and others.
By the shores of Orsa Lake was the hamlet of Lunden. I
was very fond of going there to visit Marts, a poor farm',
owned by a worthy widow, Anna Anders's dotter, dearly loved
by my friends of Kaplans. Time had furrowed her bronzed
but honest face, for she and her daughter Kerstin had to Avork
hard, as the farm Avas small and its products were not always
enough to support them ; but they always insisted on my par
taking of the best they had. Kerstin has since raarried a man
ly fellow, who I trust is worthy of her ; but a letter I have re
ceived from them tells me that good old Anna is dead.
About tAvo miles from Holn is Orsa Kyrkoby (The Church
hamlet), a peculiarly ugly place, consisting of sixty or seventy
farras or homesteads, close together, without fields between,
and Avith very narrow streets. In suramer the stables attract
swarms of flies, which bite so persistently that after three in
the morning one cannot sleep. The people do not take any
raeasures to guard against them, and nets are unknown. Mos
quitoes are also numerous, and fleas abundant, except at the
station. Should a fire occur, with a high wind, the place
would be entirely destroyed. The watchman constantly walks
the streets whUe the people sleep, and cries the hours of the
night. I was always amused by the old fellow, who had for
his companion a young and handsome girl.
The inhabitants of this hamlet were far less hospitable than
in others, on account of the crowd, and no railk or food were
offered to the stranger. The inn was at that time much fre
quented ; many had come to buy provisions before leaving for
their farms. There were several stores, some being licensed
to sell beer and wine. The place was a general rendezvous of
purchasers, and many of the men rarely returned till they had
indulged in several glasses of beer, or in a beverage called
Norwegian wine, made of berries, containing so rauch alcohol

246 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
that it took but little to make one tipsy. As the sale of spirits
Avas forbidden, the wine had to be strong. One day the sur
roundings of the inn Avere more boisterous thau usual. The
young men of the bevaring had come back, and were celebrat
ing their return home by freely drinking with their friends
either of the liquors they bought in the village or the branvin
they had brought with them. The bevaring is a military or
ganization, composed of young raen between twenty-one and
twenty-five years of age, and during that time they have to
drill for three weeks the first two years.
On ray first visit here I had discovered that the giving of
a gold ring to a maiden meant a great deal. Among the
many friends I had made at the fair at Mora was a kulla from
one of the haralets of the parish of Orsa, on whose engage-
raent-finger, without knowing its significance, I had placed a
ring. A few days afterwards, late one night, I came to that
part of the parish near which her family lived ; but the affair
had entirely left my raind. At the early hour of four o'clock
in the morning I was aroused from slumber by a knock at
the door. Bidding the person enter — though grumbling at
the same time at the disturbance — I recognized a friend at the
fair and the father of the girl whose finger I had adorned.
" Good - raorning, Paul," said he, in a very friendly voice ;
" I ara glad to see you in Orsa. You must come and see
us ; we live only half a raile from here." Approaching my
bed he said, in a confidential voice, " Paul, there is a stor
sprak (big talk) in our village in regard to the ring you gave
to my daughter; I come to ask you what is your meaning.
Do you really think of marrying her ?" I had no such inten
tion, and no idea that I had created such an excitement. The
girl was very pretty, and her fair complexion and unexceptional
bearing had attracted my attention ; from my giving her the
ring the good people thought I had fallen desperately in love
with her at first sight, and the family had no objection to the
raatch, especially as raany from that hamlet had emigrated to
the United States. My answer was siraply, " We do not mar
ry so hastily in America, and do not bind ourselves in such a
Avay. Your daughter is a very fine girl, and I gave her that

THE ORSA COSTUME. 247
ring siraply as a token of friendship. I have given many
such as souvenirs to remember me by." Nothing raore was
said, and the good felloAv raade me proraise to come and see
him. When I went to the farm I was received raost cor
dially; but the exciteraent was great araong the neighbors,
who thought I had come to ask the hand of the fair Dalecar
lian, notwithstanding ray protestations to the contrary. After-
Avards I was very particular when I gave a gold ring, and took
the precaution to give several in the same hamlet, to prevent
any gossiping.
The costume of Orsa is very unlike that of other parishes.
The coats of the men are of white homespun cloth, and short ;
Generally two are worn, the under one being without sleeves;
this is done for better fitting. Knee-breeches of white leath
er and dark -blue stockings are worn. All part their hair
• in the middle. The body of the dress of the women is
of bright scarlet wool, allowing the long white sleeves of
their chemises, which come to the wrist, to be seen. The
skirt is of bluish-black thick woollen cloth, often ruffled in
weaving, over which is a fine yellow leather apron, with a
border of black cloth at the bottom, or one made of the sarae
raaterial as the dress. The stockings are of white wool ; and
often queer shoes, with the heel in the centre, are worn.
They fasten the hair so tight that in the course of time it be
comes very thin at the parting ; their head-dress is a colored
handkerchief, always smoothly ironed, the knot being tied
with great care.
There are but very few names in Dalecarlia, as it is custom
ary there, as well as in many other districts of Scandinavia, to
call the children first after their father or mother, then after
their grandparents and other relations. Among females Anna
is by far the most common ; then coraes Kristina, Margaretha,
Katharina, and Birgitta. These names, except Anna, are spell
ed in different ways by the Dalecarlians: Kirstin, Kirsten,
Kestin, Kisten, Kistin, Stina, Margit, Marget, Margreta, Greta.
No one is ever called Katharina — but Karen, Karin, Carin,
Kari. Birgitta is always shortened into Brita or Britta. These
four names, with few exceptions, are those of almost all the

248 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
women ; and the only way to distinguish one from another is
by the name of the farm. The same may be said of the names
given to raen. Anders, Lars, Hans, Olof, Erik or Erick, Jons,
Per or Pehr, and Daniel constitute almost the entire list — the
first five being very comraon.
The parish church, close to the village, and not far from
Orsa Lake, is about ten miles distant from that of Mora, and
is reached from the latter place by the picturesque highway
passing through some of the hamlets we have mentioned.
The edifice is of stone, plastered over, and is kept dazzling
white inside and outside. The cemetery which surrounds it
is also enclosed by a white wall. Sunday is the day on which
the tourist can get the best idea of the physical development
of the Dalecarlians.
The people of Orsa are, I think, the handsomest in Dalecar
lia. The graceful costumes of the men show off their fair-
proportions. They are strong, tall, and active, as befits the
hilly character of their parish. Many of their maidens have
that peculiar Swedish coraplexion which, for clearness, fah-
ness, and freshness, surpasses any I have seen elsewhere. The
rose-tints which suffuse their cheeks are as delicate as those
of the apple-blossora floating in milk. Add to this the deep-
blue eyes, cherry lips, fine teeth — kept very white by chewing
the Mda (gum from the fir-tree) — fair and silky hair, and you
have what may be considered a type of beauty found only in
Sweden. In no other countries where the blonde complex
ion predominates has the blush of the cheeks that exquisitely
pink tinge, which gradually melts and diffuses itself into the
extremely white skin. This complexion is probably produced
by the peculiar climate.
But if the people are handsome their parish is poor, for
the farms are sraall and the families large ; very few of their
houses are painted, and they are not kept as clean and tidy
as those of Leksand, and have no gardens or orchards near
them. Few farms have raore than five cows — many have but
two, with some goats, sheep, and a pig or two. Poor, indeed, is
the family that does not own a horse ; and the ambition of those
who have none is to become so rich that they may buy one.

MY INTRODUCTION IN WIBORG. 249
On the highway from Mora to Skattungeu Lake branch
raany narrow, rough roads, leading to numerous hamlets, hid
den from sight by intervening hills or woods. There the
people are still raore primitive and trusty. Among those I
have visited are Sandback, Wiborg, Oljonsby, Torvol, Maggas,
Kallmora, Stackmora, Orsbleck, and others. Even now me
thinks I hear the voices of welcome which greeted me at the
threshold of every farm-house.
The first time I visited one of these was with Skradder
Anders, who wished to introduce rae to one of his friends,
Gubb Ole Andersson, the owner of a very good farm in
Wiborg. What a welcorae I received, and how great was the
excitement of the neighbors who crowded around me when
Anders gave the most minute details of his acquaintance with
me — of what he heard the riksdagsraan of Leksand and many
others of that parish say of rae at the fair of Mora. He also
spoke of the special letters the governor had given me, among
which was one for Mangs Hans Ersson, of their own parish, a
well-known bonde of Stackmora ; and, to crown all, he assured
them that I was one of the best fellows in the world. Such
were ray credentials on my first acquaintance, and the warm
welcome I received from all proved that his speech had the
desired effect, and that his friends believed his words.
No introductions were now required in Orsa or anywhere
near. Wherever I visited there was joy in the household; I
was treated like one of their loved relatives, and the inner life
of this warm-hearted people freely made known to me. The
broad Atlantic divides us ; months and years have rolled by,
but the sarae warm Dalecarlian hearts beat; the old friends
still think of me and love me. Often ray th©ughts wander
back to the days gone by — to that pure and loving and trust
ing nature still found here and there in the raidst of our rest
ive and busy world, but especially in Scandinavia. If we can
not see each other we can at least write one to another: and
how beautiful are their simple letters ! There is no hiding of
thoughts, no studied phrases ; they come right out and say
Avhat they feel, and I never knew how rauch they loved me
until we were parted. How endearing are their expressions !

250 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
SO much so, that, if it were not for the signature, I would often
raistake a letter from a man for that of a woman. I have re
ceived as many as three or four hundred letters a year from
Scandinavia, raany of Avhich I have preserved, and sometimes
I love to read them over again, as they bring back vividly to
my raind friends that are far away, but who are not forgotten.
All of thera begin with some affectionate expression, of which
I give a few examples :
"My good friend Paul Du Chaillu;" "Best friend Paul
Du Chai'llu;" "Good Paul;" "My dear friend Paul;" "My
dear and kind Paul ;" " My dear friend and brother Paul Du
Chaillu;" "Best Paul;" "My best friend Paul;" "My kmd
and never-forgotten Paul, who has a heart which reaches as
far as to Dalarne;" "My good friend Paul Du Chaillu;"
" Kind Paul Du Chaillu ;" " Beloved Paul Du Chaillu ;" "My
kind Paul ;" " My kind friend Paul ;" " Always remembered
friend Paul;" "My beloved and kind friend Paul;" "Ten
derly beloved Paul Du Chaillu;" "My unforgotten friend
Paul;" "My beloved friend Paul;" "My dear and beloved
friend Paul ;" " My dear and kind friend Paul ;" " My affec
tionate, tenderly-beloved friend Paul."
The letters are signed in the same loving spirit, showing
the place which I still retain in their affection. I append a
few signatures :
" To our beloved and much remembered friend Paul, for
what we have received we sign our names ;" " May God grant
thee a happy voyage here. I never forget friend Paul;"
" We never forget friend Paul ;" " Be so kind as to accept
this letter with friendly hand, sweet Paul ;" " Faithfully and
friendly I sign my narae ;" " Live well, friend Paul. Amen."
"Farewell for this tirae. Signed by a humble friend;"
"Many greetings from all thy friends;" "Live well, my dear
Paul ;" " Most hearty and dear greeting to my most humble
and amiable Paul. Good-bye — live Avell ;" " Do not forget
thy friend;" "Signs with great friendship;" "Most friendly
greeted frora thy true friend ;" " With friendship from thy
true friend;" "Accept affectionate greetings from a humble
friend;" "Good-bye for this time, my kind Paul, signs thy

ENDEARING EXPRESSIONS. 251
faithful and never-forgotten ;" " A thousand, thousand thanks
for the letter — it pleased me very much ;" " I heard that thou
hadst not forgotten me, and I had also not forgotten thee ;"
" Now I end my humble letter with a thousand-fold dear and
frequent greeting from a true friend;" "Forget-me-not — I
have certainly not forgotten thee, ray friend ;" " With great
friendship signs thy — ;" "Never forget thy friend;" "Most
friendly I sign ray name ;" " I can never forget thee, but I
often think of thee ;" " I now raust end my letter with a
thousand-fold dear greeting to thee, Paul Du Chaillu, and all
thy friends ;" " And may God guard thee over the ocean, if
thou wilt travel to us. Live well — be happy ;" " Paul, thou
hast promised us that if God gives us life and health we shall
meet next suraraer ;" " Live and feel well, my dear and beloved
friend;" "Most faithful and affectionate friend Paul;" "Most
sincere and dearest greetings to my heartiest and most amiable
friend Paul. Good-bye — live well;" "Best friend Paul, I
never forget thee. Live well ;" " Now I send my humble
letter with a thousand-fold dear and repeated greeting from
a faithful friend."
From the perusal of the above the reader raay imagine the
friendly greetings I received when visiting Dalecarlia.
On a warm summer day I bade good-bye to Holn and
vangsgarde, and a pleasant walk brought me to the hamlets
of Oljonsby and Wiborg, situated about two miles frora the
raain road. The farms of these two places are scattered here
and there, and a stranger does not know when he enters one
and leaves the other.
In many parishes or judicial districts there is a publie piece
of land, like the English comraon, called allmdning, where the
people of a hamlet have a right to pasture their fiocks and
herds. There are also forest commons {skogsallmdning). If
any one in the parish, wishing to build a house, can show that
he does not possess the forest required for his purpose, he
makes an official request to the district judge, when he is
holding court, who will then issue an order to the jagmastare
and to two members of the communal council to have the
wood cut for his use.

252 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
Almost all the farms were owned by friends of mine, and it
would be difficult for me to say where I was the most wel
come. I only remember that it was impossible for me to
become hungry, for I could not call at any house without hav
ing a meal set before me, and to refuse to eat was out of the
question ; I could not have dared to do so without running the
risk of incurring the displeasure of the family. I had eaten
with a neighbor, and I had to do likewise with the next, no
matter if the repast had been taken but one hour before.
There seemed to be a rivalry among all to do the best they
could, and outdo each other in kindness to me. When I
called at a farm, immediately the husband and wife, the son
and daughter, insisted that I should spend the night ; and if I
had promised some one else before, they insisted that I should
not leave their hamlet without doing hkewise with them.
They wanted their dear friend Paul to be happy, for Paul was
in frdmmande land (a foreign country), and they Avere afraid
he would feel lonely and sad. Their love was returned by
me, and I also tried my best to please them in a hundred little
ways. The simple tokens of remembrance I gave them were
appreciated the same as if they had been gifts of the greatest
value ; and often I think of the hamlets of Oljonsby, Wiborg,
Torvol, Sandback, Maggas, and of the farms of Gubb, Jemp-
ters, Benjamin, Mikols, Ryttar, Bartas, Guns, Hanser, Backer,
Karins, Bratt, Lagger, Agdur, Nissa, Finspers, Jemt, and many
others, where so many pleasant hours have been spent in the
study of those primitive natures, in which I detected every day
traits and characteristics Avhich were entirely unknown to me
before. One peculiarity of the country was that whenever I met
a dalkulla she would, as a sign of friendship, pull out of her
pocket a piece of rock candy and give it to me, or insist that
I should take at least a bite ; or take out of her mouth a piece
of the kada she chewed, and give it to me to do likewise:
to refuse the latter would have been a breach of etiquette.
Agdur Anders, Bartas Hans, Benjamins Per and I were
great chums, and when their work was over Ave would often
meet and pay visits together ; once or twice wc went and sere-

A LARGE NUMBER OF WIDOWS. 253
naded the fair Dalecarlian damsels, whose parents, after aAvhile,
would invite us to come in, and offer little glasses of spirits;
and, a chat over, Ave would depart and visit another farm. At
other times we would go to The Church hamlet to buy some
thing, and then before returning would join in a glass of beer.
Agdur Anders and Bartas Hans are now married. Benjamins
Per and friend Paul are still single.
I was struck while in Orsa by the great number of widows I
knew. It was indeed sad to see so many large families under
the care of poor mothers. " How is it ?" I inquired. " Paul,"
they Avould answer, " money is hard to get ; our farms are
poor, our children are nuraerous, and our husbands are obliged
to work at the quarries of grindstones ; the dust breathed is
very unhealthy, and brings on sickness and early death : that
is the reason you see so many widows." The mother, in these
cases, takes charge of the farm, and the children, always duti
ful, help her to the best of their abilities.
Among my good friends, for whom I was full of sympathy,
were those of the Guns. This farm was owned by Anna, who
had been left with five daughters, who bore the names of
Margit, Caren, Brita, Lispet (Elizabeth), and Kisten. Margit
and Caren, the eldest, were respectively twenty and eighteen
years of age, and, with the rest of the family, carried on all the
work of the farm except ploughing and threshing. How hard
the older ones labored during the suraraer, especially during
the harvest and mowing time ! how happy they seemed when
I helped them to stack the hay !
The time to leave the hamlet finally came. The people
had collected and dried the alder leaves, as shown by their
stained hands ; the fields had been weeded, and the furrows
for potatoes had been ploughed ; and every day many left for
the fabodar or saeters.
We will now wind our way among the hills, and spend a
few weeks amidst the fragrance of the pines, visiting the Orsa
and Rattvik fabodar. Each of these has a name, and those
we have visited are called Ecksjo, Skafasen, Eskasen, Harara-
sen, Utengs Bleck, Hohes, Hjerpasen, Grunneberg, Horenberga,
Spirisby, Tallhes, and Fjasku.

254 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,

CHAPTER XXIII.
The Fabodar or Sseters of Sweden. — Wild Pastures of Dalecarlia. — The Daleca^
lians's Fabodar. — Girls following the Cattle. — Departure for a Fabod. — On the
Road. — Arrival at Hemrasen. — Life at the I'abodar. — Life by the Swamp-mead.
ows. — -Aker Jonas Fabod. — A Sunday at Rattvik. — Bright and Picturesque
Costume of Rattvik. — Social Enjoyments. — ^Eskasen. — Departure.
The fabodar (sseters) of Sweden occur in very few prov
inces, as the country is not mountainous, and only north of
Stockholra. In Dalecarlia they are very nuraerous in the
forest -clad hills, araong Avhich are rich pastures, chiefly in
marsh or wet land, which dries up as the summer advances,
and along the shores of lakes and ponds : as the water retires,
the horse-tail {Equisetum vulgare) grows thickly, and of this
the cattle are very fond, and are allowed to eat it, though it
gives a disagreeable taste to the railk. In these lakelets cat
tle are soraetiraes fatally raired in the soft mud, and hence
require constant watching by the girls. In raany parts of
Dalecarlia the forests are alraost inaccessible on account of the
swaraps, and there the raoose {Alces malchis) roams at will, be
ing hunted for only six weeks in the year.
The fabodar of Dalecarlia are in many respects unlike the
Norwegian sseters, reserabling rather hamlets in the forests
surrounded by large fenced fields of grass and grain, the cat
tle often remaining with some of the family till after Christ- •
mas, to avoid the transporting of hay. The houses are com
fortable and well built, with fireplaces, beds, and necessary out
buildings ; in reality they are forest-farms.
During the day the cattle, sheep, and goats are taken to
the pasture-land under the charge of a girl, who leads and
guides thera either by her voice or the sound of a horn (for
dogs are not used either in Norway or Sweden at the sseters).

HOW PROPERTY HAS BECOME TOO MUCH DIVIDED, 255
A pocket containing salt hangs from her waist; she knows
every one by name, and if perchance one be missing, she calls
the absent one by name, and rewards its coming by the gift of
a little salt. As she walks along she knits a pair of stockings,
for none of her time is idly spent. When a good pasture-
ground is reached she seats herself on the trunk of a dead tree
or upon a stone, in some dry spot in the shade, knitting as
she sings a psalm or a love -ditty, and watches the sun, at
whose setting she retraces her steps to the fabod, where the
cows are milked and the cattle housed for the night. To see
from the hills a herd pasturing in the swamps and meadows,
and hear the tinkling of their bells, brought vividly to mind
the charms of pastoral life.
The farm property in Dalecarlia is very much divided ; as
it is distributed equally among all the children, the division is
often so small that it is hardly worth having. With the inter
marriages which have taken place, it has becorae so raixed up,
and each piece of land is so far aAvay from the main farm, that
much is wasted to secure a sraall crop. The governraent has
taken the matter in hand, and is trying to make the farmers
exchange properties, so as to unite them all in one. When a
farra includes extensive marshes and meadows far away from
the fabodar, the only shelter for the hay-cutters is a shed of
bark to protect them from the rain. Goats follow them and
supply them with milk ; and the hay is stacked, to be removed
in winter on sleighs to the farm.
I saw in North-eastern Dalecarlia some fabodar of a some
what different character. A fence enclosed a few acres of pas
ture-land, which often produces very fine hay; around this were
several cattle-pens belonging to different farmers, who club to
gether and put their cattle, .sheep, and goats under the care of
girls, who on alternate days go to pasture the coavs, or remain
at the fabod to make butter and cheese. The price is about
one krona and fifty ore for each milch cow for the season,
from June to the end of September ; there is also a stipula
ted price for the care of dry cows, goats, and sheep.
Our party from Oljonsby consisted of Per, his wife Kirstin,
and Karen and Margreta, her sisters. We had two horses

256 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
loaded with bread, flour, cooking utensils, salt for the cattle,
and blankets, ten goats and one pig — the latter proving the
most troublesome of the party. Per took the lead with the
horses, Margreta had charge of the goats, Karen of the pig,
and Kirstin carried her baby. At about half way we stopped
to eat our siraple dinner and make a cup of coffee. The road,
though very rough on account of numerous cobble-stones, was
passable for carts used for transportation ; rude bridges span
ned the streams, and, where the ground was swampy, branches
or trunks of trees had been laid close together across the
road, as on our so-called corduroy roads. I found the weather
in these forests very warm at raid-day, and was glad to rest
awhile at Grunneberg, at the fabod of ray friend Agdur An
ders ; and, besides, it Avould have been a great slight to pass
without partaking of the hospitality of his family. Before
dark we reached Hemrasen, which has quite a number of
houses scattered here and there, with hay-flelds fenced around.
Soon after our arrival the neighbors — all women — came and
welcomed us. As my friends had to go to work the next day,
we retired early to the barn, where we at once spread skins on
a little hay, and slept in thera ; for, though the days were
warra, the nights were cool.
The life at the fabodar is a very laborious one. At daylight
Per and the woraen were up and busy sharpening the hand-
scythes, and after a raeal taken in a hurry went out to mow a
meadow about three miles distant, returning in the evening
just at dusk. Often from early dawn till evening not a soul
remained at Hemrasen, although every house was left open.
One day, having lost rayself in a swampy forest, and feeling
exhausted on ray return, I retired in one of the untenanted
houses and fell into a long sleep. Great was ray astonish-
raent the next morning when I was roused from a profound
slumber by Jenit Anna, Per's dotter, from Maggas. How she
learned that I was there I could not tell. She said, "Paul,
there will be no one here until night, and I did not wish to
go before giving you something to eat."
There were days when a great nurabei* of people came to
tarry only for the night, on the Avay to some grass-fields. One

GOING TO RATTVIK. 257
day came friends Backer Anna and her brother Hans, with six
goats, on their way to a distant meadow, fairly loaded Avith
the food they had taken for the whole week and the scythes.
The goats, which were to provide them with milk, followed
like dogs. We agreed that in a few days we would raeet at
Eskasen. Araong the fabodar was one belonging to Aker Jonas An
dersson from Rattvik, who, at the time of my visit, was there
with Brita his wife ; both of them spent their days in mow
ing grass. The cattle aud dairy were under the care of two
kuUor, one being a daughter and the other Dunkkol's Karin.
How pretty these maidens looked in the picturesque costume
of their parish — -one busy at churning butter, and the other
standing before the hearth and attending to the making of
cheese, or roasting coffee, while the big brass kettle hung
above the fire. When Saturday evening came, Aker's Brita
suggested that Dunkkol's Karin, Finsper's Per and his wife,
with her two sisters and rayself, should go to Rattvik and
spend Sunday at the farra of her father. This suggestion
was accepted at once by all of us, and at daylight on Sunday
raorning we were on the way. After a tramp of several
hours, chiefly through swarapy raeadow-land and forests, Ave
reached a lovely tract of country and a good road, which
passed through an exceedingly rural and beautiful landscape
till we reached Aker in Gullerasen, where we were received
with the usual warra-hearted Dalecarlian hospitality.
The costurae of the women of Rattvik is the gayest and
the most picturesque of Dalecarlia. The skirt is of a bluish
color with a green border; the waist is dark; the woollen
apron is gorgeous with transverse bands of white, green, yel
low, or blue. The dress is short, in order to display the stock
ings, or rather leggings, embroidered at the bottom in designs
of showy colors, like those worn in Norway at Thelemarken
and at Sseterdal. The cap is very graceful — black with red
trimmings, or soraetiraes of snowy-white linen, with two balls
falling on the back.
The afternoon was passed in social enjoyment; and I no
ticed here, as I have in many other parts of Scandinavia, the
VOL. II. s

258 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
fondness of the old folks for the young people. Often one
sees a grandfather playing the fiddle for his small grandchil
dren, who enjoy a dance amazingly.
After leaving Rattvik I wandered from one fabod to an
other ; I went frequently all alone, surprised that I did not
get lost every day in the forests, for many paths led only
to swampy raeadows. The silence of the woods was broken
only by the shrill voices of maids in charge of the cattle, or
now and then by the tapping of a woodpecker on a hollow
tree. One Saturday afternoon I found myself at the fabod of Es
kasen ; in the evening the people began to corae in from every
direction, frora their week's work, and early on Sunday every
body was dressed, as if ready to go to church. Each friend
insisted that I should corae to his fabod and partake of his
cheer ; and if anybody had told me the amount of milk and
cream and buttermilk I could drink in a day, I could not have
believed it.
I did not fail to go and see Skradder Anders, and there I
saw the plain wooden cradle in which he had been rocked, with
his ancestors before him, with the date cut into the wood,
showing it to be two hundred and fifty years old ; after which
I raade visits to raost all my friends.
It was, indeed, a great luxury to me to sleep in the bam
on the newly gathered hay, and to feed on milk, cream, and
the plain food of these hardy farmers, and I felt that my
body and mind were strengthened by such a life.
As July drew to its close, many returned to their hamlets
to mow the grass aud harvest the grain ; so, bidding good-bye
to the Orsa and Rattvik fabodar, I wended my way once more
towards Orsa Kyrkoby, and thence over to Norway.

NORTH-WESTERN DALECARLIA. 259

CHAPTER XXIV.
North-western Dalecarlia. — ^Leaving Orsa for Norway. — Garberg. — ^Elfdal and its
Porphyry Works. — The Election of a Pastor. — Contrast between the Elfdal and
Orsa People. — Asen. — ^From Asen to Sarna. — Crossing the Elfdal River. — In the
Woods. — A Storm. — A Leaking Roof. — A Fabod. — Mosquitoes. — Grund Olof. —
Kistin and Charlotte. — Solitary Farms. — Sarna. — The Church at Sarna. — Remains
of Primitive Church Customs. — Jealousy of Parishes or of Provinces. — The last
Hamlet of Western Dalecarlia. — Reception by the Pastor. — End of the Carriage
Road. — Going to Roros. — A Boggy and Forest Tract. — The Elg-sjb. — Au Aged
Rower. — Storbo-sjo. — Meeting Fishermen. — Flotning-sjo. — Attempt at Extortion.
— The Faemund-sjo. — Comfortable Quarters. — Old Tdrbert Mikkelssen. — An Old
Farm-house. — On the Fsemund-sjb. — Roros.
The north-western part of Dalecarlia is covered with large
forests, containing extensive SAvaraps and bogs, which raake
this part of the country difficult of access. The Eastdal River,
so called to distinguish it from the Westdal, flows through a
very thinly settled country, falling into Lake Siljan, near Mora
Church. Leaving Orsa, I had for fellow-traveller a captain of the
Swedish army, a most delightful companion, who was going a
part of the way, and we had agreed to travel together to ren
der the drive less tedious, as the country to be traversed was
very uninteresting. At flrst the road was very sandy. We
changed horses at the pretty hamlet of Garberg, with its
red-painted houses scattered amidst verdant raeadows, waving
fields, and groves of trees, in the raidst of which fiowed a
streara of clear water, running fast towards the river below.
The next haralet of importance is Elfdal, with an excellent
inn, near which are celebrated porphyry works. The most
coraraon variety is of a dark-brown color, containing reddish
crystals of felspar ; other varieties of stones are also worked,
especially hyperite and granite. The greatest production of
s A

260 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
the place is the colossal vase before the royal summer coun
try-seat of Rosendal. All the labor is done by the country
people living in the vicinity.
Here, as in many other parts of Sweden, the living of
the church is not in the gift of the Crown, but the pastor is
elected by the land -owners. I was there when an election
took place; three candidates for the office had preached on
the preceding Sundays, for the living was worth having. The
excitement was intense, and the church was crowded ; the con
test was so close between two of the aspirants, that the success
of either depended entirely on a gentleman who, being a large
property-owner, had several votes to cast, and whose preference
no one had been able to ascertain. Though I was not interest
ed in the result, I was in the people asserabled, for they cer
tainly did not belong to the fine Dalecarlian stock. The dif
ference was very striking, though only fifteen or twenty miles
separated them from the parishes of Orsa and Mora ; they
showed evident signs of mixture with a Lapp ancestry, for they
were short of stature, particularly the women, Avith prominent
cheek-bones and the Lapp nose ; there was hardly a good-looking
man, and not a handsome woman in the croAvded congregation.
Beyond Elfdal the country became more thinly iuhabited.
Ten miles farther up is Asen, having a chapel where services
take place only a few tiraes during the year, to allow the old
and infirm to go to coramunion.
Here I parted from my companion, who recommended me
to Soldaten Smed, owner of one of the best farms in the place.
From Asen to Sarna was a long stretch of six Swedish miles,
and there was no hamlet between the two places where a post-
station could be established. I travelled from there with the
soldat's son-in-law, his wife, and their little four-year-old daugh
ter, Maria (who took a great fancy to me), and a deaf and
dumb girl, named Kirstin. We had two carts loaded with
scythes, food, and blankets, for the family were going to the
meadows for two or three weeks. After crossinsr the Elfdal
River at a ferry, and after a long drive, we left the road and
went through tho forest till we came to a large meadow,'
fenced all around with several hay-houses, one of which be-

A MONOTONOUS LIFE. 261
longed to my friend. We arrived just in time to escape the
raiu, which soon fell in torrents. We all slept close together,
on account of the cold and wet, for the roof was leaking bad
ly. Mosquitoes were as abundant as within the arctic circle.
Early in the morning we separated, raan and wife going to
mow in the raeadows, while Kirstin and I went to a fabod,
where the goats had been left, to bring them back to give
milk for the mowers. We found there a large enclosure with
cattle-pen and houses, and perhaps one hundred head of cat^
tie. All the girls at this place slept on the floor in one
house, and Kirstin and I in the evening joined the throng and
did the same. On our return with the goats we raoved to
a shelter roofed with bark, in a part of the forest not far
from extensive swamp meadows. The mosquitoes were so
numerous that Ave collected flrewood and made as much
sraoke as we could, to drive thera off. The following raorn
ing I was left entirely alone in the carap, but not before
little Maria Avas put to sleep and left under ray care. They
were not gone one hour when she aAvoke. I succeeded for
awhile in amusing her ; but finally she began to cry for her
mamma. In order to quiet her, I had to carry her and walk
in the forest, making her believe that we were going after
marama, and, coraing back, to play with her; but I was fast
reaching my wit's end to amuse the child, when happily her
mother came back, wondering that she did not find her asleep,
and when I told her what had happened, she laughed and said,
" Paul, you would make a good nurse,"
Two days of this monotonous life was all I could bear ; so,
returning to the main road, I found Grund Olof Olsson, who
had corae that day from Asen, according to our agreement,
and was waiting for rae with a vehicle to take rae to Sarna. I
soon came to Nybodo, a fabod near the highway, in charge
of tAvo maids, called Kirstin and Charlotte, the first being old,
and the last young and handsome. Olof recommended me to
the care of these women, told them that they raust show me
the way to the farms, and left, Charlotte could play superbly
on the horn, and when she followed the cattle the forest re
sounded with the airs she knew.

262 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
I remained a few days to visit the solitary farms of these
woods, in order to study the effect of this secluded life on
the character of man. At some distance from Nybodo, on
the other side of the road, I came to such a farm, called
Ras, surrounded by a few fields and meadows. I could not
help thinking how lonely was the life of these people. The
old folks were not at home, but a daughter, an intelligent girl,
received me very kindly, and prepared a meal for me; she
A^-as not afraid, as she had seen me before with Charlotte and
Kirstin, Two of her brothers were imbeciles,
Sarna is prettily situated on the banks of the river, which
here had widened into a lake. It has a parish church, a good
inn, and an excellent school, open from October to the end of
June. The pastor had been settled here for twenty-seven
years, and visited the old church with me. Ascending the
pulpit, I saw near the Bible what resembled a policeman's
club, at the end of which was a thick piece of leather, the
whole reminding one of a martinet. This had been used, un
til within a few years, to awake the sleepers, the parson strik
ing the pulpit with it very forcibly, thus compelling atten
tion. Near the pulpit was a long pole, rounded at the end,
with which the sexton, it appears, used to poke the ribs of
sleepers. These two implements, intended to keep the con
gregations awake, were used extensively in raany out-of-the-
way places in Sweden twenty or thirty years ago, and here
till within a few years, but were discontinued by the present
pastor. Now pinches of strong snuff are often offered to the
sleeper, who, after sneezing for a considerable time, finds his
drowsiness entirely gone.
In one place, where I had been particularly well received, I
got a good illustration of the fact that the young men dislike
to see the girls of their parish raarry with the people of another.
Asking ray friend who had introduced me if he observed how
charming the daughter was, he said, " No, indeed ! would you
believe it, Paul, she is going to marry a raan from Vermland,
who carae here to get his living, and made love to her on the
sly. It is a great shame that she should take for a husband a
stranger ; as if there were no fine fellows in our parish."

AN AGED ROWER. 263
After traversing a distance of over three Swedish miles I
came to Idre, a poor hamlet with a few farms scattered far
apart. I found the clergyraan mowing his field of hay, for he
could not afford to pay a man three kronor a day to help him.
Leaving his work, he invited me to his house, and presented
me to his wife. I was urged to partake of his siraple dinner,
which I enjoyed very much. Here the carriage road ends,
and the traveller wishing to go to Norway must follow the
forest paths over the hills.
Wishing to cross the peninsula again from sea to sea, I con
cluded to go to Roros, a town noted for its copper-mines, and
as being one of the coldest places in Central Norway. Swamps
are numerous, and planed logs, often two or three abreast, are
laid over the most boggy parts, for horses and people to go
over. The first farm we reached was on the shore of a sraall
lake, the Elg-sjo (Elk Lake). As a deep narrow stream had to
be crossed in order to reach the house, my guide shouted for
a boat, but apparently in vain, and I was about to cross on
horseback, when a boat came in sight, rowed by an old woman
over eighty, but strong and healthy; she had with her two
great-grandchildren, who had been left in her care. I offered
to row, but she said " no," and pulled both oars with a will
and strength which astonished rae. Arriving at the farm she
shouted, and a girl soon came out of the wood, whom she
sent for a horse. Here my guide frora Idre left rae, and
accorapanied by the girl, and with another horse, I continued
ray way through the forest, crossing raany swaraps. After
two hours we carae to the Storbo-sjo, whose fiat banks are cov
ered with reeds. She hailed a fisherman, who agreed to take
me across in his boat, and bade me good-bye by a hearty shak
ing of the hand after she had received her pay. I was glad
to land, for the boat was old, and leaked like a sieve. A few
poor farms are scattered on the shores, in one of which I met
two idiotic children, one having the goitre — the second case I
had seen.
At the Flotning-sjo I experienced an atterapt at extortion
very uncoraraon in this country. I spent the night there,
having for supper only a bowl of sour milk ; on asking the

264 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
price, old Jonas said, "one dollar." I declined to pay it;
and when I asked him why he charged so rauch, he answered
that he thought I had so much money that I did not know
what to do with it, and he fell from one dollar to about twen
ty cents. It should be said that the owner of the farm was
not at home.
I crossed the Norwegian frontier without knowing it, and
came to the poor hamlet of Drevsjohytte, whence there is a
road to Fsemund-sjo. The Fsemund-sjo is 2150 feet above the
sea, and thirty-five railes long ; its outlet, the river Klar (clear),
flows into Lake Wenern. This beautiful sheet has peculiar sce
nery, not possessed by any other Norwegian or Swedish lake ;
its shores are not abrupt, and in many places are thinly clad
with fir and birch trees and fine reindeer-moss ; the water is
clear, contrasting singularly with that of the dark lakes we had
passed, and swarms with fish. I saw several wild reindeer
browsing upon its shores. About three miles from its south
ern extreraity is a hamlet composed of four old farm-houses,
one of which had been burned to the ground the winter before
my arrival. The people were old-fashioned folks, who knew
little of the outer world. Torbert Mikkelsen was the nabob of
the place, and a fine old man he was ; his ruddy face was sur
rounded by bushy whiskers gray with age ; he was dressed in
knee-breeches, white woollen stockings, double-breasted waist
coat with shining brass buttons, and a red Phrygian wooUen
cap. Berit, his wife, was as good as himself, and a true picture
of an old matron ; her white hair was partly hidden under a
graceful peculiar little black cap, worn in that part of the
country. The house was large and comfortable, the walls of
the general room were painted green, and in one corner was
the cheerful open fireplace. Old porcelain dishes and cups,
heirlooms of the family, were on a sideboard, a lantern hung
frora one of the beams of the ceiling, and an old clock stood
near the bed ; poles adorned with good family linen ; a table,
two or three chairs, a couple of benches, a loom, and a spin
ning-wheel constituted the furniture. My bedroom was quaint.
The walls were painted yellow (evidently old Torbert loved
bright colors), with a red border about three feet from the

LAKE MJOSEN. 265
floor, the ceiling yellowish white, and the cross-beams and my
bedstead were red,
Torbert was a thrifty farmer, and took pride in having
everything in perfect order ; he owned eighteen cows, three
horses, and thirty sheep ; his land was good, and his summer
pasture excellent. When I left he would take no money, for
I had given a fine silk handkerchief to his wife, and was
urged to come again,
A row of about twenty miles took me to the north shore
of the lake, which was reached after passing through swamp
meadows, aud where I reraained for a day.
The road to Roros went through a very picturesque coun
try, and here and there we met a few farms. Roros, or Roraas,
is a quiet little toAvn of 1900 inhabitants, situated 2000 feet
above the level of the sea, with many comfortable houses
painted red, and clean streets. It derives its chief impor
tance from the copper-mines, which were worked as far back
as 1644. The Storvarts mines are at an elevation of 2800
feet. The Hitter River flows through the centre of the town,
the two parts of which are connected by picturesque wooden
bridges of construction peculiar to Norway. The logs are
supported by the filling at the ends, and also by the braces, as
the engraving shows.
From Roros I travelled leisurely down the Osterdal valley,
often along the shores of the Gloramen — the largest river of
Norway. On the last day of August I entered the town of Ha-
mar, on the shores of Lake Mjosen. It had a forlorn appear
ance ; grass was growing in its wide streets ; weeds clustered
about the church, and the growth of the place seemed entirely
checked. In former times it was of great importance, but
was destroyed by the Swedes in 1567. Not far from it are
interesting ruins — all that remains of its cathedral.
The Mjosen is the largest lake in Norway. It is four hun
dred feet above the sea, about sixty- six miles long, varying
much in breadth, its widest part being ten miles. The greatest
depth of water is two hundred and forty fathoms — rauch below
the level of the sea. At the time of the great earthquake in

260 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
Lisbon, in 1755, it rose suddenly twenty feet, and fell back al
most instantly to its level. In the spring it attains its largest
volume, from which it falls eighteen to twenty feet. It has
none of the weird aspect characteristic of Norwegian lakes,
for the hills slope gently to the water, and are dotted with
numerous farms and fields, churches and hamlets ; the scenery
is pastoral, but not remarkable. Passenger steamers, and oth
ers for freight or towing logs, ply upon its waters. In sum
mer this trip is delightful. Its chief places of importance
are the small towns of Hamar, Gjovik, and Lillehammer.
The old teacher of the free-school at Hamar reminded me
of some old painting. He wore an old-fashioned frock-coat,
a waistcoat buttoned to the neck, and queer-shaped high col
lar, surrounded by a thick white kerchief with a large clumsy
knot. When we entered he was playing the violin. On the
black-board the notes of the rausical scale were chalked, with
the words of a song below thera, which the boys and girls
were singing to his accompaniment.
The regions of the Mjosen and the Osterdal are among the
finest agricultural districts of Norway. Many of the people
could hardly be called peasants ; they had the air of Ameri
can farmers. They had large, comfortable, well-painted houses,
furnished with cushioned chairs, sofas, pianos, and books ; sur
rounded by pleasure-grounds, gardens with summer-houses,
and fine barns. They took pleasure in improving their herds
of cattle, sheep, and swine ; went every year with their fami
lies on a visit to Christiania, and set their tables in city fash
ion. Their linen was starched, and, in fact, many of them
raight be called gentlemen-farraers, fond of their horses, of
fishing, and shooting, and only superintending the work done
on their estates.
At the upper end of the lake, on a high hill, is the quiet
village of Lillehamraer, consisting of three streets, the prin
cipal one crossing the river Mesna by a bridge. It contains
about 1700 inhabitants, and is a centre of trade, as it stands
at the beginning of the high-road to Trondhjem, at the ter
mination of the valley of Gudbrandsdal, of which the lake is
a continuation; and there was a hospital — a well-built two-

CUNNING OF STATION-HORSES, 267
Story log-house, with large rooms sixteen feet in height, with
six beds in each. There were only tAvo patients. It was free
to those who were unable to pay, and was under the direction
of the government doctor. The bath-rooms and the kitchen
were very clean, and it was exceedingly creditable to those
who had it in charge,
I was particularly fortunate in seeing the " Fall " of Lille
hammer, as the stream was rauch SAvollen by rains, and de
scended in magnificent cascades. The river Mesna, for sev
eral hundred yards, tumbled down frora a height of hundreds
of feet in a sheet of white foam, and in one place passed
through a channel only ten feet wide ; while the current of
air sent the spray fiying above the trees and meadows to a
great distance. Though far more south than Trondhjem stift,
the harvest in this part of Norway is more backward even
than beyond the arctic circle. In the first week in September
I saw a great deal of rye and barley still uncut ; and in the
garden of the doctor a few cherries were still on the' trees ;
currants and gooseberries were ripe, and the apple-trees were
loaded with fruit.
Once more I found myself driving towards the transverse
valleys of the Gudbrandsdal, The weather was now beauti
ful, I was jolting along slowly, for at the end of the summer
season the horses are completely worn out, I had one which,
with all my coaxing, would hardly go more than three miles
an hour. These station-horses, when there is so much travel
ling, are very cunning, and are trained to go but four or five
miles an hour. They seem to laugh at the harmless whip
which is given to the traveller, who gets tired before they do.
My main object in coming so late was to see the old farm
houses. In some of the narrow valleys the harvest was
further advanced than in broader ones. The people were
busy digging potatoes — men, women, and children being era
ployed ; these were assorted as they were gathered, the small
er being put aside for the swine, and the others spread out
to dry before being stored in a dark cellar. Every farm
had many extra hands, often employed only to help the poor
neighbors ; but the pay was very smalls — the raen getting only

268 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
tAvelve, and the women eight skillings per day, with food :
many preferred being paid in potatoes. It was a busy time
for the farmer's wife and her maid in the kitchen, for many
extra mouths had to be fed. Bread was raade in great quan
tity, the loaves being of such a size that one was given to each
man for his allowance on bread-day. Ironing is done in a
very particular raanner: the articles are carefully wrapped
around a wooden roller, about four inches in diameter and
two and a half feet long, and smoothed by an implement call
ed a mangle, of the sarae size, graceful in shape, elaborately
carved, and somewhat resembling a carpenter's plane.
In the Gudbrandsdal valley the farms vary considerably
in size ; the houses were of one story, with covered porch,
consisting of the main room, with two smaller ones, and of a
guest-house. The people are poor indeed, some of them pos
sessing neither land nor cows, and having to work by the day;
but, I repeat, one never meets any emaciated from hunger;
they are strong and healthy, though living on coarse bread,
potatoes, sour milk, and now and then butter, but rarely tast
ing meat.
Leaving the highway just above Laurgaard, in the wild Ens-
ten gorge, I followed a rude mountain-road along the Hovring-
dal, which led to^tbe mountains where the sseters of that name
were situated. The ascent was continuous; at a height of
four thousand feet the firs were still fine ; I do not know of
any other part of Norway where these trees grow at such an
elevation. My astonishment was still greater, after reaching
the plateau, to see several fields where rye and barley had
been harvested. The situation of the Hovring sseters is one
of the finest in Norway; there were thirty-five of them, but
most of these were deserted, with the doors of the houses
strongly fastened. The silence which reigned over these
places, and the faded color of the grass, plainly showed that
the summer had departed, and that the winter storms would
soon blow fiercely over the mountains. I know of no place
in Norway so easy of access, and which combines so many
advantages for invalids, as this sseter. Visitors can walk long
distances without getting into bogs or ascending tiresome hUls ;

GREAT NUMBER OF LEMMINGS, 269
and horseback rides can be taken to a height of alraost five
thousand feet.
On the 13th of September we had a foretaste of the winter.
The wind blew a gale at times, accorapanied by heavy shoAv-
ers; but towards night the sky suddenly cleared, and the
weather becarae quite cold ; before sunset snow fell. Three
men came here Avith two carts, loaded with ploughs, axes, and
other implements of husbandry ; they had been sent to plough
some of the fields for the following year, and on their depart
ure were to convey to the farm all the butter and cheese
which had been produced during the season, and such articles
as were not to be left at the sseter during the winter. They
arrived just in time to cut a fresh supply of firewood for
cheese- making; they wore their best clothes, for, of course,
they wanted on their arrival to appear well to the girls of the
sseter: one Avas desperately in love with Ingeborg, but she
did not seem in the least to reciprocate it. They lost no tirae,
but put on their working-garraents ; in the evening Ingeborg
left them in possession of her sseter, and came to spend the
night at ours.
In the raorning the raercury stood at 23°. There was not a
cloud in the sky, and the air was still ; long icicles were hang
ing around the roofs of the houses, and the ice was nearly half
an inch thick on the shores of the streara where the water was
quiet. The following day the few occupants of the sseters
were to return to their farms, I reluctantly bade farewell
to Marit, Britte, and Ingeborg, and wended my way alone to
the valley.
The number of lemmings {Myodes lemmus) I met on the
road and in the mountains was enormous; raany had been
trampled by horses' feet or crushed by the wheels of vehicles ;
aud, while walking, I stepped continually upon them. They
resemble very rauch a field-mouse; are about five or six inches
long, of reddish-brown color, with blackish stripes, thick bodies,
and short legs. Twice during my travels in Scandinavia I had
met them in untold numbers, covering vast tracts of country
on their migration from north-west to south-east, on their way
to the sea, in which multitudes are drowned. Their migra-

270 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
tion is periodical, and always from the north ; they live in the
mountains, and nothing seems to stop them on their onward
march except insurmountable obstacles. They live in holes,
I have met them as far as 70° 30' North. Where they have
passed, the country is bare ; the grass, the moss, the leaves, and
even the branches of the dwarf-birch and willow are eaten up.
In the valley of Selsdal there are several farras near its
junction with Gudbrandsdal, Among the principal ones is
Ulsvold, which I had hardly entered when home-made beer
was brought to rae in a solid silver tankard — an heirloom in
the family for several generations. While I was drinking,
the district doctor made his appearance, having travelled a
long distance in a drenching storm. His arrival caused a great
stir in the household, A pair of neAV thick stockings was
iraraediately handed to hira to replace his wet ones, and a cup
of fresh coffee was prepared. It would have been a breach
of hospitality if he had been allowed to depart Avithout hav
ing food or refreshraent offered.
How primitive is the love-making in many of the regions
of Scandinavia ! One evening while at a farm, the old folks,
the rest of the family, and myself Avere awakened by knock-
ings at the door, and we heard a voice which we recognized as
that of one of the many suitors to the hand of the fair daugh
ter of the house. The following dialogue took place : " Sigrid,
will you not open the door for me ?" No sound was heard
from within ; more gentle knockings and supplications ; the
maiden still remained silent. " Sigrid," continued the lover,
" you are such a nice girl ! you know that if I did not admire
you I would not come so far to see you ! can you be so hard
hearted as to send rae away ? There are no girls in the parish
I admire so much as yourself. Please, please open the door ;
the wind is chilly ; I am very tired ; I come only to talk a little
while with you, then I will go away." Sigrid at last relented,
and he was admitted.

OLD FARM-BUILDINGS. 271

CHAPTER XXV,
Old Farm -Buildings. — Great DurabiUty of Norwegian Log-houses. — Antiquity of
many Norwegian Farms. — Runic Inscription found upon Houses. — Primitive
Fireplaces. — Houses without Chimneys. — The Rogovn the next most Primitive
Fireplace. — Introduction of Chimneys. — The Pels, another Form of Fireplace. —
Improvements in Buildings. — New Forms of Houses. — The Nystue, or New
House. — Increase of Buildings on a Farm. — Different Use of Houses. — Introduc
tion of Corridors and Covered Piazzas. — Great Care in the Construction of
Houses. — The Ramloft House. — The Barfrb House. — The Opstugu House. — Age
of some Ancient Stone Churches. — An Old House in Valders.
There are no houses of Mediseval Europe that can rival
in antiquity the farm-buildings of Norway ; their log walls,
which have stood the wear of centuries, have proved more
durable than those of stone ; they seem to defy the ravages
of time. They were built of fir-trees from the primitive for
ests, and some of them date back before the year 1000, and
from the seventh and eighth centuries ; and some even are of
older and unknown ages. The timber has become so hard
ened that the axe has hardly any effect upon it, for the resin
has been absorbed by the fibres of the wood. The logs are
often of great width, showing a size of trees not at present
prevalent in Scandinavia, Several of these old houses are
found with Runic inscriptions — araong thera one in Numeda-
len, on the farm Raudland, in Opdals parish, high up in the
mountains: here the door-posts are ornamented with carv
ings like those seen on the stave churches ; and in the tira-
ber over the door is written the narae of the builder, with
" Thorgaut built me."
Many of these old farms have remained in the possession
of the same family from that remote period to this day, and
in this respect exceeding in age any other landed estates in
Europe. The reason why Norway can boast of so many

272 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
very old houses is that its inaccessible mountains have been
secured from the devastation of wars ; and Avhen these took
place, the conflicts were chiefly on the water or on the shores
of the sea. As there are, within the historic, period at least,
no reraains of buildings anterior to these of wood, it is prob
able that the earlier inhabitants of Scandinavia lived in tem
porary structures ; their houses were probably made of turf,
perhaps variously combined with wood or stone, which have
disappeared from decay or various disturbances of the surface.
As the people advanced in civilization — the country being
covered in raost parts with forests — they began to build wood
en dwellings.
Most all of those ancient houses are situated in valleys and
dales, which, but a few years ago, were accessible only by bri
dle-paths, and often in out-of-the-way places, chiefly inland—
in the Hederaarken, Hallingdal, Sastersdal, Hedal, Vaage, and
Lom, in Hardanger and .in Jsederen. To this day the life of
the people of these regions is raost primitive.
It was always a source of pleasure not only to study the in
habitants of the valleys, but also to look at the weather-beaten
houses, to see their interior arrangeraents, and to trace step
by step the improvements that have taken place in the art of
building. The raost ancient form was called the ildhus (house with a
fireplace), or rogstue (house without chimney, rog meaning
smoke). They are yet found, though very rarely, in differ
ent parts of the country. Another building, bur, bod, or mat-
bod, where the food and clothing were kept, stood near.
The ildhus contained only one room, with a stone hearth
in the centre of the floor ; in the roof above was a large open
ing called Ijore (light-hole), for the smoke to escape. In bad
weather, when the hole was partly shut, the smoke became al
most unbearable.
The hearth is about six feet long and four feet wide ; some
times a high flat stone is put up endways on the side towards
the door, designed to prevent the gusts of wind from blowing
too hard on the fire. The cooking-pot or boiling-kettle hangs
from a swinging beam. In one house of this kind in Eken

PRIMITIVE FIREPLACES.

273

parish this beam ends in a dragon's head as an ornament. The
furniture in such a house was and is of the simplest descrip
tion : a couple of fixed bedsteads, fastened to the wall ; a long
table, usually of a single board surrounded by benches, attach
ed to the AA'all, and a few Avooden chairs. These are very an
cient, and made of the trunks of single trees (as shown in the
engraving) of peculiar form, and are still used in many places.

FIEE-HOUSE, WITII AAEE (uEAETu).

The next most primitive forra of fireplace in the rogstue
was called rogovn. In front of the hole is a projection of
the raasonry, and when the wood is burned out the erabers
are raked into a little recess on this shelf, thus allowing the
heat to radiate into the roora. The rogovn is a piece of stone
work of the height of a raan, and wide enough to adrait of a
bed being placed on the side of it.
When the rogovnstue is to be heated in the winter, it is
done in the following manner :
In the raorning a suitable quantity of wood is put into the
oven — preferably branches, as they burn raore fiercely, and
throw out the heat quickest ; the wood having been piled care
fully, so as to give a good draught, the flame soon issues from
VOL. II. T

274

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

'SMOKE-OVBn). FIEBPLAOE WITHOUT
OIIIMNEY.

the opening of the oven and runs up along the sooty roof in a
raanner to frighten any one not accustoraed to it. When the
tire has burned down the
embers are raked out on
the shelf, as above stated.
These consumed less fuel,
and were used near the
coast, where wood was
scarce — the first being
more coramon inland.
The next improvement,
and a great one, was the
open fireplace with chim
ney. This form was called
peis, spis, ovn, grue, mur,
sten, and sJcorsten, in dif
ferent parts of the country ; it is open, with a flue for carry
ing off the sraoke.
In the year 1493 an inspection was made on the king's
farm in Jeratland, which at that time was a Norwegian prov
ince ; and in the record from the same it is raentioned that
the last tenant had built a new dwelling-house, with sJcorsten
(chimney, or open fireplace) and all belonging to it. This
skorsten was undoubtedly the same as the present peis —
standing in the every-day room, and used both for cooking,
wanning, and lighting it; and this is the earliest informa
tion found of that kind of fireplace in Norway. The latter is
placed at sorae distance from the wall, and is open on two
sides, as shown in the engraving. Sometimes a peis is found
in the roora up-stairs, so that guests in winter could have
a vii'arra sleeping-room. This peis is the form of open fire
place still found everywhere. As is seen in some of the pict
ures of the book, it is alraost always at the corner of a room.
No other form will throw out such an amount of heat ; but it
consumes a great quantity of wood.
In many districts, as wood became scarce, stoves of tiles or
iron were introduced. The tile-stove, of which Ave have spoken
before, is of much raore recent origin — probably by several

A DESCRIPTION OF OLDEN TIMES.

275

hundred years — than the peis, and is now raost extensively
used in Sweden. Many of the iron stoves are beautiful, Avith
figures representing religious subjects, and sorae of an age
dating as far back as tbe year 1600, aud used every winter.
In a description of Hallingdal it is stated that, about 1650,
houses Avithout chiraneys, and with only a hearth, were in gen
eral use in that district. In the sarae is also described a table
with rings in the side, by Avhich it could be hung on the wall
Avhen not in use ; for, when all Avere seated on the long bench
es, and the fireplace was in the raiddle of the roora, there was
hardly space for a fixed table: that this was so is shoAvn by
the saga relating how Asbjorn Selsbane came in and wound
ed There Sel as he stood in front of the high-seat table, Avait
ing upon the king, St. Olaf, It is written in the saga of Olaf
Kyrre, King of Norway, that in former times the high seat of
the king was in the middle

\

of the long bench, and the
beer was handed over the
fire burning on the hearth
in the raiddle of the fioor;
but that he was the first
one who had his high seat
made on the bench which
ran across the roora, and
that he introduced the ro
govn, as well as the custom
of having cup-bearers stand
ing by the table. Former
ly it had been customary,
when the king wished to
honor any one by drinking with him, for the horn to be ex
tended across the fire to the person thus honored.
As time went on another house was built, called 7iystue,
or storstue (new house, or large house), while the older one
was named gammelstue, or dagligstue (old, or every-day house).
Then the family had a separate room, and the old large house
was used only for cooking, and for servants, etc. ; then the
fashion came, in many districts, of constructing a large num-
T 2

/7^1'miHlt

jimzi

OLD PEIS IN A UOITSE IN BOGNB,

276 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
ber of buildings for the different uses of the farms. The mat-
bod (larder) was originally a room where all kinds of provi
sions and clothing were kept — the latter being hung under the
roof — and was probably the first of the buildings to receive a
second story. Corridors or covered piazzas extended along
three sides, and the two stories comraunicated with each other
by steep, ladder-like staircases, as seen farther on in the en
gravings. These had to be preserved as long as possible as a
protection for the door; and as no AvindoAvs could be put on
this side, they were placed in the gable walls. The Avindows
in the ends prevented the house frora being extended longi
tudinally. Afterwards the stairs to the loft were put in the
porch, and thereupon followed the arrangeraent of an up
per piazza, with its openings and pierced work, as seen by
the engraving in the next chapter. These gave the house
a strange appearance. The loft was built expressly for the
clothes, that they might be by themselves, and hang high, free
frora any dampness from the ground. It was important to
take great pains to preserve the clothing, as in those times
raost of their personal property consisted in garraents — either
wearing-apparel, or for beds. Originally built for these, the
upper story soon came to be used also, as it is to this day, as a
sleeping-room for guests, and thus got the narae bedloft : even
during the tirae of St. Olaf (1016-1030) lofts were in use for
this purpose, and from the old sagas it appears that guests,
especially the principal ones, slept in thera. In a saga it is
stated that he had a large utebur (outside larder), where he kept
all kinds of goods, large chests, raany sorts of raeat, dried fish,
cheeses, and all necessary food : he there had his bed, where he
and his wife slept. He also arranged in this roora beds for his
guests, and places for their arras — everything in the best man
ner ; and even to this day, in many districts, tbe same arrange
ments are seen. The one store-house Avas soon changed into
two — a larder and a separate bed-house. The larder for a long
time retained its simple forra, but sometimes it Avas built
larger, Avith two rooms, e;<t'h Avitli a door on the gable-end.
( Treat care Avas taken in the construction of these buildings,
and there Avas always provision for a draught of dry and fresh

THE RAMLOFT HOUSE.

277

air under the floors. To prcA^ent the entrance of rats aud mice
they Avere sometimes built on posts, hence the names stolpebod
and stabbur: these required outside stairs. The stabburs of
Southern Norway are unlike those of other parts of the coun
try ; their peculiar shape attracts at_once:,the .attention of the
stranger, and their dark and hardened weather-beaten walls
tell of their antiquity.

STABBUR IN KINOEEIKE, WITH GALLEEIE8.

With tirae improvements began to take place, and additions
were raade to the primitive fire-house, and the extension was
called ramloft, from Avhich the houses now existing take their
name. This ramloft goes up in a tower-like fashion at one
end, with the stairs on the outside which lead to a door open
ing into the loft, which is a bedroom constructed with pecul
iar care and of the same size as one in the story below; the
primitive, and large, and lofty fire-house remained open up to
the roof. There are a nuraber of these in different parts of

278 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
the country, but they are more common, though even there
but sparsely found, in Lom, where I will take the reader in a
following chapter.
In Hedemarken, on the old crown farm Huseby, in Stange,
is an old ramloft house, Avhich, however, now has raany recent
additions. The ramloft here was divided by partitions into
two apartments, in one of which was a small fireplace; in the
other, the walls were ornamented by paintings representing
tapestry, in imitation of a custom of hanging tapestry on the
walls on festive occasions. The paintings give a very good
idea of the manner of this ornamentation : above are shown
small bars, and from these are hanging gay-colored aaklseder
in folds, fastened with cords in the upper corner ; there is not
much art in the painting, but it is an interesting relic of
antiquity. One is reminded by this ramloftsal of the first
chapter of Sverre's saga about the " fine loftsal " of which his
mother dreamed, or of Snorre's story of Asta's love and eager
ness, Avhen she was told that her son Olaf (the saint) was
every moment expected to return frora foreign countries : she
rose up immediately, and ordered raen and women to get
everything arranged in the best manner ; she had her women
bring ornaraents into the house and decorated it, as well as the
benches, with tapestry.
Another ramloft house is seen on the farm of Stemsrud, in
Grue parish, at Solor, in the valley of Gloramen ; in one of
the timbers is cut the year 1324 ; it has for several generations
been in the family of Kolbjornsen, who keep it in good con
dition. In Northern Osterdal is found a peculiar kind of buildings
called barfro. This form is also very old, and should the
tower be taken away the house Avould reraain intact — a prim
itive type, with the fireplace in the centre. In front of the
door is a square porch, soraetimes of horizontal timbers, but
oftener of posts, with plank Avails ; a flight of stairs leads up to
a sraall square room used for clothing, but also as a sleeping-
room : this front part is called barfro. The origin can be
traced to the ancient Germanic language, uoav known only by
old manuscripts, Avhcre its name AA^as bercvrit, which reads

THE BARFRO AND OPSTUGU HOUSES,

279

berkfrit. The first syllable is related to the Norwegian bjerge
(to preserve, to keep), the last is the sarae as fed (peace). In
France it is called to-day berfroit or berfroi, hence the Eng
fish name belfry. The use of this kind of toAver spread to

^^mmdmi^.

OBTEEDAL BAEFEO BTUE.

Denmark, and finally to Norway, where it at present is found
only in Osterdal.
The opstugu is the oldest kind of building in Trondhjem
stift ; next to the rogstuer is the opstugu still found in Opdal.
The opstugu is the little room above the porch, and the lower

AN OPSTUGIT.

bedroom is very like the ramloft, only that the stairs are in
side the porch. This arrangement is now seen only on the
older houses and on the smaller farms. Two of these houses
can be seen on the high-road from Christiania to Trondhjem,

280 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
at the post - stations Drivstuen and Rise. The porch wall,
where the entrance -door is, is generally panelled with open
pillars over and on each side of the door, giving light and air
to the hall.
From the engraving it will be seen that the opstugu is sim
ilar to the ramloft, the difference being that the stairs on the
latter are outside; frora which cause again the forraer had
to be divided into a hall and the roora : both are built at the
transverse end of the house, while the barfro is a tower en
tirely outside, and built in the raiddle of the house — besides, the
raraloft has corridors and piazzas. The picture shows the ex
terior appearance of the opstugu. Properly the little cham
ber is called opstugu, situated over the small bedroom un
derneath. The stairway is built in the hall ; it leads into a
smaller one above, from which one coraes to a small sleeping
apartment. On an old stave-church in Tins parish, in Thelemarken, was
found in 1822 a Runic inscription — showing, beyond doubt,
that the church was inaugurated between 1180 and 1190. The
building has been torn down, but the plank in which these
runes were inscribed is preserved in the antiquarian collection
of the University, and looks as if it could Avithstand the tooth
of time for centuries to come. Nsesland's stave-church, taken
down 1850, had a sirailar inscription, showing it to have been
inaugurated in 1242.
The farm Korterud, in Eidsberg parish, of the province of
Sraaalenene, is noted for the very old spar- house building
found there. The tAvo entrances on the partition wall are so
low that one has to stoop in entering ; each is surraounted by
a wooden arch, cut out of a single piece, one foot thick ; on
these arches are carved ornaraents with some undecipherable
letters ; each door consists of hcAvn boards or planks, and the
ornaraented iron rings extend over its entire width. Beyond
the threshold one has to step down nearly one and a half
feet into the house, the floor of Avliich consists of rough logs.
Along the three sides Avere formerly benches of timber, be
tween which and the walls earth Avas filled in to keep out the
wind. Opposite the doors are Iavo AvindoAvs, and on that part

A VERY OLD HOUSE.

281

the floor was one foot higher than the rest, and held a long
table made of thick planks ; in the middle of the lower divis
ion Avas formerly the stone hearth, traces of Avhieli are still
seen. In the corner of the room, near one of the doors, is a
small closed fireplace, provided with a narrow baking-oven,
but it is not now in use ; a porcelain stove has later been add
ed. But the sign showing the great age of the house is the
hearth in the middle of the room, and with only a hole in the
roof, now closed, but which still can be traced by the smoky,
and in sorae places half-charred appearance of the timbers.
In Valders, on the farm Hande, in West Slidre parish, is
a large building A\'liich has for a long time attracted attention

BEDLOFT HOUSE IN VALUEE8.

for its antiquity; it shows remarkably good timber -work,
though there is not rauch ornaraentation or carving. The
doors in the lower story open into two low dark rooms (as
shown in engraving) without windows, evidently used for pro
visions ; in the floor is a trap-door connecting with the cellar.
The principal part of the building is the upper story, divided
into two apartments ; the larger with fireplace and three win
dows, but quite dark from being partly surrounded by corri
dors, suitable for a bedroom, or in the daytime used as a feast
hall. The date of its erection is not known ; but it is evident
ly of the sarae forra as another house described on the farm
Skjelbred, in Annebo parish, in Jarlsberg, which even in 1751,
when a drawing of it was made, was considered as very old,
having been the residence of Count Alf, and known to have
been standing at the end of the thirteenth century.
Other old buildings of the same kind raay be seen on the

282 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
farm Finne, at Voss, in Bergen stift; at Oroug, in Askim;
and on Lang sseter, in Thrykstad ; in Sraaalenene (jutul stuer,
as they were called by the peasants) ; at Sorknaes, near the
Gloraraen ; at Hof nord, near Hole, in Ringerike ; Gavelstad,
in Lardal, above the town of Laurvik. These houses were
probably identical with the hoieloft and jomfrubur of the
sagas, also known under the name of skemme.
A good specimen of the jutul stue is found on the farm Uv,
in Rennebo, Orkedalen, Trondhjem stift. The saga says that
jutuls (giants) built the house, bringing the imraense timbers
on their shoulders from the forests; it is probably over six
hundred years old. These logs are among the largest found
in old Scandinavian houses.
The Jsederen type (a district near Stavanger) is exceedingly

FIG. 1.— FEONT.

interesting, and possesses characteristics very peculiar. Fig. 1
shows the front. Fig. 2 the back, and Fig. 3 the end of such
a one. The window above lights the loft where the provisions

FIO. 2.— BACK.

are kept. Such houses often show the planks and timbers
of stranded A'^essels, timber being very scarce in that district ;
turf and stone are also used extensively on this account. They
are large and comfortable inside. The room proper is built

A MANDAL HOUSE.

283

of wood, with high seat, fixed bench, long table, the master's
bed, oven ; porch partitioned off, with stairs to the left ; kitchen
also divided, with back-door aud window
by its side ; in the kitchen the fireplace,
from Avhich the oven in the house is
filled : there is a bedroom for guests, in
which is the clothes chest. This room,
as well as the principal one, is built of
timbers exclusively. There are additions
at both ends of the house, used for pre
serving turf; there is also a small roora on the back of the
house, with the wall partly of stone and partly of Avood, com
municating Avith the kitchen, and used as a larder.
The Mandal form of stue (house) presents features quite
different from those of any other. The original was a rog
stue, with the hearth in the middle of the fioor, and a hole in
the roof for the smoke. The old house is still left standing,
and is used as a kitchen, bakehouse, etc., while betAveen that

FIG. 3. — END.

AEEANGEMENT OF BEDS IN THE STDE (hOUSe) AT MANDAL.

and the noAv one is a hall, with stairs for the upper story. The
inner arrangements of this neAv addition are made after the
type of the old house; the difference being caused by the
substitution of an iron stove for the hearth. The placing of

284 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
the beds is peculiar, as shown in the engraving ; betAveen them
is a closet, generally with fine carvings.
On raany an old farm are found chests of different shapes
and sizes, raade centuries ago, long before closets were built;
and in many districts they are still in use. Cupboards and
movable closets occur, which are also interesting on account
of their age and elaborate carvings.
One often meets with a kind of coverlet called aaldoeder,
sometimes also used as a curtain for hiding shelves and the
like. They are raade on a loom called upstadsgogn, and by
a process more like plaiting than weaving. Many of the
coverlets, often in very bright colours, have scenes on bibli
cal subjects woven into them. Some of them are seen Avith
figures showing that they Avere made about 1600. They are
frora Bergen stift, where the manufacture of them is still
prevalent.

THE FARM OF SLETTE. 285

CHAPTER XXVI.
The Hedal. — The Farm of Slette. — The ancient Farm of Bjblstad. — Buildings on
Bjolstad. — Tokens of Centuries Past. — Ancient Rights of Farmers. — Ivor Tofte.
— Life at Bjolstad. — How Servants are Paid. — Saturday's Work. — Sunday at
Bjolstad. — Departure from Bjolstad.
We will journey towards a district Avhere some of the oldest
farm-buildings are to be found.
On a pleasant afternoon I crossed on a wooden bridge the
turbulent Logen, and soon after entered the Hedal, one of the
transverse valleys of the GudbraudsdaL The leaves of the
aspen had already turned, and the bright crimson contrasted
finely with the dark coniferous foliage. After a drive of a
few miles I alighted before Slette, and, passing a quaint gate,
found myself in a yard formed by eight houses of somewhat
peculiar architecture. On the left of the enclosure was the
dwelling-house, entered by a porch with a pointed pinnacle;
a closed piazza protected the upper story ; the roof was of
earth, upon Avliich the grass grew; it was built of rough logs,
darkened and hardened by age. On the lower floor was a
large room about twenty-eight feet square, with ceiling ten
feet high, supported by eight stout beams, underneath which
another beam served as a brace, indicating the strength of
construction. In one corner was the comraon open fireplace :
the furniture consisted of a long table, an antique buffet, a
few wooden benches, an old-fashioned closet, and a bed. The
floor was very clean, and some of the planks were frora twenty
to twenty-three inches in width ; four low windows gave light
to the roora, and in them stood pots filled with flowers ; the
walls were painted of a bright yellow, and the ceiling white.
A Avidow, the owner of the farm, Avas spinning ; by her side
was her only child, a fair-haired girl of nine years. Two ser-

286 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
vant-maids were sewing some garments. I excused rayself
for coming without invitation, but said that her place appear
ed so strange that I could not resist the temptation of alight
ing and looking at the house. I was invited to spend the
night, but declined, as I was going to a farm farther up.
Upon which I was told that I could not leave before partak
ing of a cup of coffee, which was preceded by a small glass of
spirits, given as a token of welcome.
Beyond Slette the farms were numerous. Many of thera oc
cupied the suraraits of rounded hills formed of alluvial soil, all
of the same height, and appearing in the distance like a con
tinuation of the terraces. Each one looked like a small vil
lage, on account of the number of its buildings. Near the
church was the old farm of Heringstad, with its peculiar stab-
bur and upper piazzas.
A little farther on was Bjolstad, a very old farm, owned by
the Tofte faraily frora time immemorial. It was late when
I reached its yard : the dim light of the moon made the build
ings appear still more fantastic. I thought, as I looked at
those silent walls Avitli piazzas, of the scenes Avhich, in form
er tiraes, must have taken place within. On our left, after en
tering the gate, was the stue or dwelling-house seen in the en-
graA'ing, built of logs, rough on the outside and inside, and set
upon a thick stone foundation. This house was about forty
feet long and thirty wide, and along three sides of the upper
story ran a piazza partly enclosed by boards ; the entrance, as
at Slette, was through a fine old porch {dorsval) Avith elaborate
carvings, from which a steep staircase led to the piazza above.
Here was a room occupying almost the whole breadth of the
house, its dimensions being fifteen feet in depth and twenty-
six in width. It contained a bed, bnt no antique furniture;
the hall was hung Avith winter fur-coats, robes, blankets, and
other articles of apparel.
In the yard two houses formed one side of the square;
these were raore odd, and raore antique in appearance than
the one avc had left, especially the belfry, dark piazzas, porch
es, and ladder-like stairs — the hard logs seeming to defy the
ravages of time. Their stone foundations were high, and in

:0

THE BUILDINGS ON BJOLSTAD'S FARM. 287
the first house the basement Avas used for keeping the milk,
cheese, and butter. Firm stairs led to a sort of porch, with
carved Avood-Avork, and thence to the rooms of the first story ;
by a staircase like the one before mentioned I reached the
gallery above, Avhich was enclosed by boards, with an opening
above, seven feet long by eighteen inches wide, to admit light
and air. Some of the rooms on the upper floor contained
beds, but others had no furniture whatever ; in one of them
eight working-men slept. This house had forraerly evidently
stood alone ; but it has long been the custom in Gudbrandsdal
to add neAV houses to the old ones, and join thera in some
way or other. The piazza of the second house was reached
by very steep stairs. In one of the rooms the panes of glass
Avere very small, and the frames which held them were of lead.
Two other old houses forraed the opposite side of the square ;
the lower part of one was used as a stable, and contained
eighteen stalls ; this was thirty feet long, and had three doors,
the centre one leading to a passage where the hay was placed
in the mangers on each side. The next one was a quaint
building containing two rooms on the first fioor, in one of
which the flour provided for the use of the family was stored
in leather bags, each of which was numbered ; there were in
the sarae apartment huge piles of flat bread. A staircase led
to the upper story, which contained one large room, in which
the meat was kept — a large supply of which had been left
over from the previous year ; the killing-season for the next
winter had not yet arrived. Among these stores. were a great
nuraber of sausages, twenty -two halves of pigs, blood-pud
dings, sides of bacon, and several dried shoulders of sheep and
goats, besides a lot of cheese. To coraplete the square was the
guest-house, of raore raodern date, about sixty-five feet long
and forty wide ; a wide hall, lighted by a window at the end,
ran through its centre, and on each side were two comfortable
bedrooms ; a steep fiight of stairs led to the upper story, where
the arrangeraents were the same as below. Everything was
scrupulously clean ; not the smallest spot could be seen upon
the white pine fioor, and the polijhed wood of the logs inside
appeared so new that one might have fancied they had been

288 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
laid but a few years before, although the house was finished
in the year 1818. This building was erected upon a strong
stone foundation, and its cellars Avere spacious. These walls
were of the heaviest kind, and proved to last, as we have seen,
for centuries. The beams supporting floors and ceilings were
of great strength, and the logs of the sides Avere joined Avith
great care, as were the posts supporting the piazzas ; the birch-
bark on the roof was carefully laid, and on this the earth cov
ering had been placed.
Near the yard was an old house Avhich Avas used as a gran
ary, the grain being stored in large wooden compartments.
There was a large building for the coavs, on the declivity of
a hill, and also constructed on a stone foundation : in this
were housed eighty-eight cows. Close by Avas another, with
twenty-eight. It would be tedious to go through a catalogue
of the numerous houses upon this farm ; for, besides those
forming the yard, tAventy others Avere scattered about, used
for the storage of hay, sleighs, wagons, carts, aud for black-
smithing, etc.
Among the interesting and useful structures found on ev
ery farm is that where the grain is dried before being stored
(the kiln) ; an oven, used also for baking, is built in the cen
tre, and on each side were long troughs, about three feet wide
and a few inches deep, in which grain is placed to dry by
the hot air. If not thus treated it would mould, on account
of its humidity.
Wherever I went on this farm tokens of past centuries met
me on every side. Here Avas a spot Avhere once stood a ceme
tery and a church ; the latter, one of the first erected in Nor
Avay, had disappeared, no trace of it reraaining except one of
the old doors. Now and then are seen relics of former times;
among them two crosses, like those of Gotland, which once
stood over tombs, their Runic characters, partly obliterated, at
testing their antiquity. I saw a piece of a wooden cross, kept
under the house, with the letters and date, " T, T. S,, 1735,"
meaning " Tord Thord's son ;" this cross had been placed above
the grave of one of the Tofte family.
Bjolstad, besides being the largest farm in Hedalen, Avas also

ANCIENT RIGHTS. 289
a sort of post -station. It Avas of great extent, comprising
Avithin its boundaries large tracts of mountain -land which,
though not of rauch value, had extensive forests of birch and
good grazing-lands ; several sseters belonged to it. The land
under cultiA'ation for grain, as on almost all these mountain
farms, Avas not very great, Tofte planted about seventy-five
acres Avith grain, and his farmers the sarae number. Butter
and cheese were the chief products of the farm, and large quan
tities of hay were required for the stock during the long win
ters ; in harvest-time, forty or fifty extra hands were employ
ed ; in winter, nine girls, twenty men, and four lads composed
the household. Machinery is very little used, and cannot be at
all in many districts, on account of the rough and stony char
acter of the soil. The richer farmers are therefore under the
necessity of helping their poorer neighbors, and of employing
their daughters and sons for awhile ; otherwise their reputa
tion would be injured, and a good name is precious to them.
My host did not know the exact dimensions of his estate,
but said it extended far back into the mountains. He raised
horses, and among the thirty-three he had in his stables point
ed with pride to one of a chestnut color, which had won the
first prize at the fair in Christiania; sorae of his ponies were
very fine animals. There were several husmsend, who either
paid a stipulated sum each year, or performed labor for a cer
tain number of days.
Bjolstad and other farms have been for centuries in the
possession of the Toftes. The cause of these estates re
maining for so long a period in the same families is due to
tAvo laAvs, which are so ancient that the time of their enact
ment is lost. These are the Asmdesret (horaestead right), and
the Odalsret (allodial right). The first is the right of the
eldest son to inherit the farm after his father ; he, however,
being obliged to pay the other heirs their share of the estate,
the value of which is given by the father, or else it is esti
mated far below its valuation. If the former be dead, his
eldest son takes it, and so on. If the first naraed has left no
son, his eldest daughter inherits, etc. If a farm is of such
a size that several families can exist on it, the father is al-
VOL. II. U

290 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
lowed to divide it among his children, under such conditions,
however, that the eldest son or daughter shall not receive less
than one-half of the farm. The second (the Odalsret) is the
right, when a farm is to be sold, of any member of the fami
ly to buy it — or, if sold to a stranger, their right within ten
years to redeem it at the price paid, with the additional cost
of the improvements; if there is any controversy, apprais
ers are appointed. A later law has modified this, so that an
owner selling his farm may determine whether he renounces
for himself and heirs this right.
This fine old farm narrowly escaped a transfer to other
hands two or three years before my visit ; but Ivor was able
to buy it by asserting his Odalsret. These two rights are
held on to very tenaciously by the Norwegian bonder as
safeguards, as many have told rae, against the absorption of
their land by the rich people of the cities, or capitalists, Avho
in time would destroy their small horaesteads, and unite them
into vast landed estates.
An unpretending man was the actual owner of Bjolstad;
he was forty-six years of age, and a bachelor. He was dressed
in a bluish-black frock-coat, of homespun material, with high-
necked waistcoat, and pantaloons of the sarae material, and
a bright-red woollen Phrygian cap. He wore the same gar
ments all the year round, except that on Sunday he had a
newer suit. At meals Ivor Tofte presided at the head of the
large table, as the chief of the household, eating at the plain
red -painted board with his men and maid servants, in the
honest, siraple, and patriarchal way of the olden time. This
primitive custora exercised a beneficial infiuence, and banish
ed the disparities of social distinction. His orders were always
conveyed in a quiet way, without show of authority, which
raade them the more pleasant to those who received them.
On these large Norwegian farms everything goes on like
clock-work. There is a rule about food — certain daj'S having
fish, meat, sausage, etc., etc. The supper is very siraple, and
invariably consists of the thick porridge called grod, made of
raeal or grits boiled in water, and served in wooden dishes,
Avith several bowls of sour milk. The people eat with wood-

HOW PEOPLE ARE PAID, 291
en spoons, aud help themselves from the same dish. In
summer, during harvest-time, home-breAved ale is given to tho
raen. There are two dinners a week Avith raeat, the others
with fish — potatoes always being served with these.
In the Hedal Valley, and at Bjolstad, each girl employed by
the year received two pairs of shoes, one dress, two bodices,
one skirt, three other undergarments, and three or four dollars
in money, with wool enough to make two pairs of stockings.
A man received oue coat, two pairs of shoes, two shirts, one
pair of pantaloons, one pair of stockings, two pairs of socks,
and ten dollars a year. The raale day-laborer had in sumraer
eighteen skillings, or a raark ; in winter, twelve skillings with
food; and the girls received frora eight to twelve skillings.
Money has great value with these raountain people, and in
the districts reraote frora the sea is not easily obtained ; they
have generally little to sell, but enough to eat. The house
keeper here was paid eighteen dollars, but had to provide her
self with clothing and shoes. Saturday is house-cleaning day,
for everything must be in order for Sunday. The fioors are
washed, the tables scrubbed, and everything made tidy. The
girls make their toilets and change their clothes. About four
o'clock the men stop work, shave themselves, put on clean
linen — looking forward with irapatience for the evening, as
Saturday is the lover's day. As soon as it is dark they start
to visit their sweethearts, often having to go a long distance ;
they take great care lest the neighbors know what girl they
are courting, for gossip is then let loose, and the girl becomes
shy : this is not always easy, as the boys are watching, and
there are many prying eyes and busy tongues among the
villagers. On Sunday, immediately after breakfast, every one is at
tired in holiday clothes. liei'e many of the men, even the
lads, Avear swallow - tailed dress - coats, made like the rest of
homespun cloth, their heads being covered Avith a long wool
len cap. The shoes are particularly Avell-polished and greased.
In the evening there is a dance. I AA-as rauch araused by
observing that, Avhenever one of the girls wanted to go out,
she would call two or three others to accompany her — being
u 2

292 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
afraid the corapany would suspect she was seeking a chance
to talk with a lover — for the girls and the raen in this quiet
place were continually on the watch to discover love affairs.
The dancing ended at ten o'clock, for there was rauch work
to be done on Monday.
From the old farm of Bjolstad the narrow road continued
on the left bank of the Trykja — upon whose shores were sev
eral little grist-mills; the hills were clad with coniferous
trees, but a thick fog prevented rae from seeing the summits
of the raountains. We kept ascending till we came to the lit
tle Bjolstad Lake, which we passed on our left, and soon reach
ed the sumrait of the ridge which divides the Hedal from the
Ottadal. The descent was very abrupt and picturesque, and the Otta
River was crossed on an old bridge supported by piers of logs
filled up with stone.

Orao

a< OO

IHE OTTADAL. 293

CHAPTER XXVII.
The Ottadal. — A Region Avith Old Farm-houses. — Old Buildings on the Farm of
Sandbo. — A Kind-hearted Doctor and his Wife'. — The Vaage Lake. — The Tesse
Falls. — The Farm of Haakenstad. — Ascending the Valley. — The Church of
Gardmo— its Antiquity. — King St. Olaf and Thorgeir. — Why Thorgeir built the
Church. — St. Olaf's Iron Bracelet. — Old Paintings. — One of the Descendants of
Thorgeh-. — The Church of Lom. — A very hospitable Dean. — The Loms Eggen.^
The Hard Winter of 1868. — Snow Avalanches. — Loss of Life. — An Historical Re
gion. — The Olaf Saga. — How St. Olaf converted the People to Christianity. — The
Ramloft House on the Farm of Lokkre.
From the Gudbrandsdal there is a grand valley, the Ottadal,
Avhich extends westward in a straight line, and would join the
southern branch of the Nord fjord if it were not shut off by
the raountains. In that valley are many of the oldest farm
buildings of Norway.
The Ottadal at its opening lies between the Hedal and Sels
dal, frora which it is separated by raountain ranges. Crossing
tbe Logen, one is struck at once by the difference in the as
pect of the two strearas — the Otta being of that peculiar color
which showed its glacial origin, while the other is perfectly
clear. The drive from the farm of Aasor, which takes its
name from the mountains on the other side, is very fine.
We changed horses at Snerle, vdiere the river becomes a lake ;
on approaching the church of Vaage the mountain scenery is
truly grand as Kopf jeld and Kvitingskjolen burst into view,
with their large patches of snow. In the neighborhood of the
church of Vaage are a nuraber of very old farms, and among
these is Sandbo. As one enters the yard, the dark color of all
the buildings impresses hira at once with the antiquity of the
place. On the left is the matbod or larder, with a reindeer
horn. Two high step-ladders lead to the piazza of the next
house, while beyond is the most ancient building, the old Ud
house, which has been improved, and there the family resides.

294

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

The engraving shows a house on one of the farms of Sand
bo. What is especially to be pointed out is its being a kind
of transition from the old to the new. The principal entrance-
door is not situated on the wall of the room itself, but first
opens' into a hall. This hall has several advantages ; it better
protects the room-door than a corridor, so that rain and wind
do not strike in every time the door is opened, and it also

nOUSE AT SANDBO.

makes a nearer connection between the different parts of the
house ; one does not need to go out in the corridor to pass
from the old part to the new, or to the stairAvay leading to
the loft.
At the relay-station of Sve I raade the acquaintance of Dr.
R  and his young and accomplished wife ; they were not
yet settled, and had been there but a short time. I could not
leave without partaking of their hospitality. The doctor in
sisted that I should take his cariole, avIucIi had springs, while
raine had none. It was in vain that I expostulated, and before
I knew it he was hiraself loading the vehicle, his wife helping
him; if I had been their brother they could not have been
raore in earnest for my comfort.
At Vaage the Findal Valley joins the Ottadal ; the road
here branches, one fork going nortlnvard to Lesje, in Roms-

THE OLD CHURCH OF GARDMO. 295
dalen. A little above the church the river is crossed by a
bridge, and the road follows the left shore of the Vaage Vand,
1120 feet above the level of the sea. Farther on the country
becomes more barren, and the Thesse River, coming from the
Thesse Vand, 2700 feet above the sea, turables down in a se
ries of beautiful falls — the last one from a flat surface. Just
beyond is the Storvik farm.

SIDE VIEW OF HOUSE AT SANDBO.

In Findalen, not far from the church of Vaage, is Haaken
stad, one of the largest farms in the parish. This farra has, like
Bjolstad, a very large number of houses, amounting to thirty-
three. Among thera are a grist-mill, three stables for horses,
others for cattle and sheep, two wagon-sheds, two granaries,
smoke-house, kiln, houses for warming water for feeding the
cattle and for a laundry, several barns witH even three stories,
and a dAvelling for male and female servants.
A drive of about four hours from Vaage brought me to
Gardmo, an old farm, not far from which, on a tongue of land
issuing into the Vaage Vand, stood the old church of Gardmo,
or Garmo. Opposite the sarae rose the raountains of Skardho,
with a few farms at their bases ; while behind, on the other
side of the lake, a huge mass of hills culminated in the Kvi
tingskjolen and its glacier, rising to a height of 6276 feet.

296

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

This old church was erected in the tirae of St. Olaf, is built
of logs, and surrounded by a walled cemetery; the sight of
the logs, hardeued by age, carries one back to the time when
Christianity dawned upon the land.
King Olaf went across these waters to Thorgeir (the old) at
Gardmo, in Lom, and the latter, as a token of gratitude, built a
church to the saint's raemory on his place ; the oldest parts of
the present Gardmo church are the remains of that one. The
church was small, and the additions raade to it frora tirae to
tirae had given it the shape of a cross : remains of the Roman
Catholic symbols formerly in use were still visible. Araong the
interesting relics I saw an iron bracelet, said to have belonged
to St. Olaf: above the altar hung a painting of the Lord's
Supper, inscribed with the words the Saviour' uttered Avhen
he broke the bread and poured the wine ; under that painting
was written " Henning Garmo, Tore Siversdatter, 1735," in
comraon letters. Above it was a picture of the Crucifixion,

BTOEVIK, NEAE VAAGE LAKE.

The ceiling above the altar was painted in gorgeous colors,
and the walls were decorated with twenty-two paintings illus
trating different scenes in the life of Christ. The dates of
these pictures ranged frora the year 1710 to 1735, and one
Avas inscribed 1746; all Avcre gifts from different persons.

A WELCOME AT THE PARSONAGE OF LOM. 297
The most interesting portion of the building was that built in
1130 : there was a sort of box high up on the left, entrance to
which was gained by a ladder outside of the church. In the
graveyard lay the remains of some of the ancestors of the
families I had visited, their line of descent dating back to a
time long before this place of Christian worship had been
built. The old and historical Gardmo farra is owned by one of
the descendants of old Thorgeir, and dates still farther back.
The owner received me kindly, but the house was far from
clean. Leaving Gardmo, the road winds along the valley toAvards
the church of Lom, some ten miles farther. The view was
superb. The bottom of the valley was quite flat, and at times
presented a pretty broad expanse : numerous sand-banks were
seen in the lake. In the distance, on the left bank of the
lake, Loms Horungen rose to 5500 feet, with numerous farms
at its base ; still farther up, on the right, was Loms Eggen,
6570 feet. It is not so much the height of these mountains,
as their massive grandeur and the sombre colors, which im
press the observer.
At the foot of Loms Eggen, on an exceedingly well-formed
terrace, stands the church of Lom, at the junction of the
BsBA'crdal with the Ottadal. This church is built of logs, and
is of great strength; it contains several paintings — one of
1608, another of 1650, and others frora 1710 to 1740.
Near the parsonage, which was a large and commodious
dAvelling, Avas a pleasure-ground, with Avalks winding among
rocks and groves of birch-trees; and the river Bsever formed
a fall through its narrow rocky channel on its way to the
lake. I was received warraly by the provst (dean), who was quite
a learned man, and spoke English fluently. Several friends
were on a visit. Our host produced enormous pipes, and
passed thera around among the guests, who seemed to enjoy
smoking very much. The weather being very cold, toddy
Avas also served. The ladies were busy with their needle-work
Avhile we were talking, and did not seera to dislike in the least
the clouds of tobacco sraoke.

298 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
The Loms Eggen rises like a huge promontory to a height
of 6670 feet, and 5314 feet above the Lom church. On its
northern side is the Ottadal, which is merely a continuation of
the Vaage and Lom valleys westward, while the Basverdal,
starting from the same point, takes a southerly course.
The weather had suddenly become cold, and heavy over
coats were very comfortable while driving. In the Skeaker
Valley, but not far from the church, my attention was drawn
to a part of the mountain-side which was perfectly bare, and
the provst gave me with great emotion the following expla
nation :
" In 1868 there was a ver}'^ hard winter, and in this dis
trict snow fell almost incessantly for three or four weeks,
until on the sides and tops of the mountains it attained an
enormous depth, and cut off all coraraunication. On the
8th of February, the weather having suddenly cleared and
turned very cold, a huge avalanche came doAvn the moun
tains, carrying everything before it — earth, trees, rocks — and
leaving all behind it bare," Then he pointed to a pile of
stones which marked the site of a little farm which had been
swept away ; the whole family, father, mother, and two chil
dren, had been crushed by the mass of snow, and ouly this
heap of rocks had been left to tell the story. Then he added :
" I heard of the accident a few hours after it occurred ; I
called all the male population of the district together, and
mustered all the horses on the farms, and Ave went to digging
while the other people were watching, for fear of raore ava
lanches. We dug all day on Saturday and a part of Sunday,
before we came to the ruins, but the people and the cattle
were all dead."
Continuing on our way, the provst again pointed to some
other ruins — the remains of another farm swept aAvay by^ the
avalanche ; the father of the faraily had gone to Trondhjem,
leaving his wife and three children, but when he came back
he could find neither family nor horae ; an avalanche had
overwhelmed all except his mother, who had escaped as by a
miracle. I saw a new house near the ruins, in AA-hich the be
reaved raan Avas living alone, mourning for the dead. Tho

AN HISTORICAL LOCALITY. 299
provst also told me that in Bseverdal two persons had been
buried by the snow ; and he added, with feeling, " It was a
dark winter for us ; sorrow came to the door of many a house
hold," There is also another road along the lake where one can
drive as far as Skeaker, going eastward through the Ottadal,
following the lake. Farras are found as far as the Juran lake.
There is also a bridle-path going to Stryn, in Sogne. Several
exceedingly wild valleys open into the Otta, the most interest
ing being the Lunderdal and Tundradal. The lakes of the
Otta valley are encased between the Loms Horungen and
Loms Eggen.
This region is full of historical reminiscences : here the in
habitants were Christianized by St. Olaf. The visit of that king
to Lom is described in the Olaf saga : " The king stopped OA'er-
night on the farm Bo, near Lesje, where he ordained priests
for that district ; he then went over the Loradal and came to
Stava Brsekken ridge, and remained there awhile ; below this
ridge lies a farm called Bo or Boje, a river called Otta run
ning through the valley ; and the neighborhood on both sides
is called Lora. The king could see along the valley, and said,
" It would be a great pity if one should be forced to burn this
beautiful country." Then he passed down into it with his
men, and stayed overnight on the farra JV^i:es, and lodged in a
loft, where he slept. It is said that the king reraained there
during five nights, and suraraoned before him the people of
Lora, Vaage, and Hedalen, and sent messages that either they
would have to corae and be baptized, and abjure heathendom,
or else see their farras burned, or try their luck in arras against
hira ; and in the forraer case they raust give him their sons as
hostages, which they, however, ought to consider as an honor,
and not as a compulsion. And it is related that nearly all the
bonder came to the king and were reconciled with him, but
those that did not fied."
On the farra of Nses is found the house in which St. Olaf
slept more than 860 years ago, but unfortunately it was changed
some forty years since ; before this it was a raraloft, like that
at Lokkre. It is to this day knoAvn as St. Olaf's house.

300

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

At the head of the Ottadal, here called the Lom Valley, the
country is very thickly settled. Among the many old farms
is that of Lokkre, which has the latest ramloft house that has
been built in that region. Here the stairs leading to it are on
the outside, frora which a door opens into a bedroom of the

FEONT OF EAMLOFT HOUSE AT LDKKEE.

sarae size as the one below. The drawing shoAA'S the cover
ed corridor-like piazza peculiar to all the houses on the Gud
brandsdal, concealing the walls, but here the lower gallery is
entirely closed. On the transverse side the building is also en
closed by a piazza in two stories, and there are stairs leading to
the raraloft. The picture represents the length of the struct
ure, but the log-Avall of the lower story is hidden by an outside
corridor with parallel wall, having only an opening in the
raiddle, through which is seen the door of the house — this
being one of the most striking traits of the Gudbrandsdal
houses ; but generally they are more or less open, and not
with a closed wall like this one.
The house proper, or every-day room, is large and lofty,
Avithout ceiling. On the crown cross-beam is marked in the
wood, E. R. S. (Esland Rolf's son), 1769. The whole house
is twenty-nine feet long, not including the piazza. The large
roora is tAventy feet long and tAventy- three Avide, and the
lieiirht from the floor to the crown of the roof is thirteen feet.

A HOUSE AT THE FARM OF LOKKRE.

301

To the left of the entrance is a large closet, used by the mis
tress as a cupboard ; along-side of it is the high seat of honor,
with a smaller closet to the left and above it, in which the
raaster keeps his papers under lock and key. The space on
the Avail above the high seat is occupied by book - shelves,
which on festive occasions, according to old custora, are cov
ered by an aaklede (described in Chapter XXV.), a kind of
bed-spread woA'^en in bright colors. In Lora flve of these, with
biblical figures, are still used for the purpose. One has the
year 1620 woven into it. Next to the small closet is a long

EEAK Ol-' EAJILOl-'T HOUSE AT LOKKEE.

bench fastened to the wall, and in front of it the large table
Avith another bench running the length of it opposite the first
one. In the left-hand back-corner is the master's bed, with a
fixed seat next to it. In the inner right-hand corner is the
fireplace, and on the other side of the bedroora door a sta
tionary bench ; and in the roora below the raraloft stands
a bed, with a few steps leading up to it. As a general rule,
the beds in the houses are fastened to the walls. Often there
are separate sleeping -houses for guests, containing a larder
or storehouse in the lower story, and bedrooms above.

302 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER XXVIII,
The Wildest and Highest Mountain Region in Norway. — Height of some of the
Peaks. — Difference between Swiss and Norwegian Mountains. — To Jotun Moun
tain. — The Bseverdal. — Protection against Avalanches. — From the Visdal to
Galdhbpiggen. — View from Galdhopiggen. — The Leiradal. — The Lang Lake. —
The Gjendin Lake. — Its Scenery. — The Bes and Rus Lakes. — The Bygdin Lake.
— A Hunting Region. — Lake Tyen. — A Snow-storm. — In a Predicament. — Ap
pearance of Fishermen. — Deserted Sajters. — End of the Journey.
The wildest and highest mountains of Norway are the
Jotun, known also under the name of Jotunheim, " the home
of the giants," betAveen Lom and the great Sogne fjord, culmi
nating in Galdhopiggen, 8300 feet above the sea.
Araong other high peaks of this range are Glittertinden,
7860 feet ; Leirho, 7400 ; Heilstuguhd, 7550 ; Tykningssuen,
7550 ; Tjsernhultinden, 7530, and Besho, 7400 feet. In the
Horungerne, which are included in the Jotun, the highest
peak, Skagastoltinderne, rises to 7860 feet. Besides these there
are a large nuraber of peaks of hardly less altitude. The
peculiarity of the Jotun is that several of its raountains are
pointed. In this superb group, which covers over sixty square
miles, are found many fields of perpetual snow, deep valleys
with immense glaciers falling into or overhanging them, and
lakes several thousand feet above the sea. This region affords
sorae of the grandest pictures of Norwegian scenery.
The difference between the raountains of Switzerland and
Norway is this : those of the forraer are rauch higher, more
bold and pointed, and sharp in the outlines of their thousand
fantastic forms. On the other hand, the Norwegian moun
tains have a grave and sombre character, appearing like a
gigantic stony wave, with a peak here and there, inqjressing
more by their vastness than their height and ruggedness. In
Norway the valleys are less numerous, and separated by broad

PROTECTION AGAINST A VALANCHES. 303
masses of mountains, generally excavated by ice. In Switzer
land narrow ridges divide one valley from another.
Let us noAv wander awhile in the Jotun mountains and the
Visdal and Leiradal valleys.
In order to reach them from Lom, one must ascend the
Bseverdal by a rough carriage-road as far as the farm of Ros-
heira, situated on the shore of the furious Baevra, 1559 feet
above the sea, aud 300 above the Vaage Lake. This valley is
enclosed on the north by the raountain ridge called Loms
Eggen, and on the south by the Galdhoerne. The loAver parts
of the surrounding slopes are covered with birches inter
spersed with firs.
Looking at the incline of the raountains, the stranger can
realize the dangers to the inhabitants of that district from
avalanches or suoav -slides, which are not uncoraraon. Little
stone huts, hardly peeping out of the ground, and protected by
hillocks or by the configuration of the ground, Avith soraetimes
a little window for light, have been built as places of refuge.
Rosheira is near the Visdal. This A^alley is fianked on both
sides by grand raountains, snow-fields, and glaciers; on the
"east the Glittertinden peak rises proudly above the sea; on
the west is the majestic Galdhopiggen, divided by two chasms
into throe peaks, almost surrounded by dark, insurmountable
walls, around which is a sea of snow.
From the Visdal the ascent to the top of the Galdho is
comparatively easy. A number of sseters are raet at about
four English miles, at a height of 2775 feet above the sea, the
path ascending all the tirae till the coraraon birch vegetation
ceases, and wild birch and willows take its place. These dis
appear as the snow boundary is neared. The mean altitude of
the Galdho plateau is between 6000 aud 7000 feet.
After a tiresome tramp over snow, ice, and rocks, the
Galdhopiggen is reached, several hundred feet above all other
peaks. At its base is a sea of snow glaciers. There are
terrible precipices towards the Styggebrseen, and chasms and
fissures are seen in the masses of ice. Galdhopiggen stands
like a round snow cupola, OA-eiiooking all, bounded by preci
pices almost on every side.

304 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
The view is superb ; about the horizon is spread a pano-
raraa not to be forgotten — to the north range after range, and
the Rorasdalshorn, the mountains of Dovre and Snehsetten ; to
wards the east, the Runderne and Osterdal mountains; in the
west, the Horung ; and across the Visdal the shining Glitter
tinden, with snow-fields and glaciers in every direction; in
the- south the Jotun, with their wild, sharp, pyramidal peaks.
The entrance to Leiradal is a few miles west of Rosheira,
by the Bseverdal Valley. In the east it is fianked by the
Galdhopiggen, and in the west by the Veslef jelds, rising 6366
feet. At the entrance of the valley are found some sseters,
2900 feet above the sea, at the base of the dark mountains.
Near the top is a small lake surrounded by rocky shores. Not
far distant is Kirken, a queer-shaped mountain, Avhich seemed
to have a girdle round it towards the summit. Below is Leira
Vand, a charming lake 4736 feet above the sea ; we skirt its
borders, where one of the glaciers of Smorstab Peaks raeet its
water. Leira Vand forms the top of the water-shed of Lei
radal ; crossing a ridge, which divides the water-shed, one
comes to two lakelets, which fiowed towards the Gjendin
Vand. Here was presented a wild scene — raasses of rocks of
every size and shape being piled upon each other on the left,
while on the other towering mountains clad with snow and
glaciers were seen.
Soon after Ave came to the Lang Lake, about five miles long.
On the left side were fine pastures, where the cattle of the sse
ters come to feed, while on the other were the Skarvdal moun
tains with their glaciers, rising to a height of 6140 feet. The
raurraur of the wind, water-falls, and torrents, and the dash
of the waves as they strike against the shore, sound mourn
fully enough when heard under a gloomy sky. Nature is still
and solemn, and only now and then during the short summer
is the voice of the lonely maiden of the sseter heard to break
the silence of these solitudes.
The Lang Vand falls into another lake — the last link in the
chain, with wilder surroundings — in a cascade from seventy-
five to one hundred feet in height. Far below is the Aadal
Valley, the descent to Avhicli is rapid, over diluvial soil, passing

WEIRD LAKES, 305
some sseters; and here grass, the dwarf birch, juniper, and
Avild willow are seen once more ; and at last the Gjendin Lake
is reached. In this lonely place is a poor solitary sseter, built
of rough stone ; quite near is a log-house, owned by the Tu-
ristforening Society, where the raerabers can find shelter.
This lake is 3155 feet above the sea ; it is eleven miles long
and one mile Avide, running east and west, and is surrounded
by snow -clad raountains, in the raidst of which are several
glaciers. The mountains flanking its northern point, covered
with perpetual snow and ice, present magnificent scenery ; at
the foot of these lies the Rusvand. Wild, indeed, is nature
there. The Besho, a raass of rocks, lies between the Bes
and the Rus lakes; the latter is separated from the Gjendin
by a narrow strip of rock, which raight be called a saddle,
from which can be seen at a glance the Gjendin, lying 2000
feet below on one side, and the Bes, 800 feet on the other.
From these heights one can go down to Bes saeter, 3110 feet
above the sea, and then follow the Sjodal — one of the beauties
of Norway — and reach Hedal, which we have visited before.
A few railes frora Gjendin,is Lake Bygdin, 3520 feet above
the sea, and about fifteen railes long. It Avas late in the sea
son when I found rayself there ; the first two weeks of Sep
teraber had gone, the sseters Avere deserted, and the narrow
stone huts built for the raen who roara with cattle were
erapty. The stillness of the place was disturbed only by the
cries of a few gulls : even these would soon leave, for winter
was at hand, and, though the sky was bright and the grass
green, a snow-storm might come any day. This region is
rauch frequented as a hunting-tract by the people of Valders,
but no sportsraen were to be seen.
Still farther is Lake Tyen, 3596 feet above the sea : lonely
enough was this region with its deserted sseters. Coming to
a small house built by the Tourist Society, I being one of the
members, my guide and myself prepared ourselves to take
shelter under its roof for the night. We hobbled our horse,
and after a simple meal lay down on the hay, covering our
selves with our OA'ercoats ; the air was cold and still (30° F.).
At three o'clock we were awakened by a high wind, which we
VOL. II. X

306 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
could hear whistling fiercely around our dwelling. The panes
of glass in our hut were covered with snow, and we were in
the raidst of a great snow-storm. Erik jumped up frora his
bed to look after the horse, but the animal was gone. He tried
to find him, but in vain — for, on account of the thick snow fall
ing, he could not see, and when he returned he said, in a de
sponding way, " The horse has gone home." " Gone home !"
said I; "how does he know the way?" "Yes," he said, "he
has gone." The poor fellow was dejected enough, for his horse
could not go fast with his hobbles, and in the darkness might
have lost his way in the raountains. The horse was part of
his fortune, and he no doubt thought it would have been diffi
cult to raise the raoney to buy another one. As 1 was the
cause of the trouble, and had come here contrary to his advice,
I made up my raind to buy another horse for him if his was
lost, and told him to write to me in Christiania, if he did not
find the aniraal. The drifts grew higher and higher, and I be
gan to wonder how long the storm would last; he at once
consoled me by saying that it was too early in the season for a
heavy fall. He was right, for towards noon it cleared. I fired
gun after gun to call the flshermen, and increased the charges
to raake the detonation louder, but no boat was in sight. At
last one came, and it was agreed that the two fishermen should
take me to the road Avhich crosses from Lserdalsoren over the
Filefjeld. Erik was to go in search of his horse, and take his fami
ly and the cattle back to the farm, and I was going in the op
posite direction. As we shook hands, I told him to remember
me kindly to his wife, and recoramended him again not to fail
to write in case he had lost his horse. I knew the good fellow
was too honest to write a lie, and that, if he found the animal,
he Avould not tell me he had not.
The distance from the southern extreraity of the lake to the
high-road was about three miles. Wending our way through
the deep snow, it had becorae cold, the mercury standing at
22°, and after awhile I saw with joy the telegraph-poles along
the road : several paths leading to pastures branched off in va
rious directions, and birch-trees became abundant. We passed

ONCE MORE ON A HIGH-ROAD. 307
by the Ilagesset sseters, consisting of several stone huts and
houses overlooking the valley. Here, too, the dwellings Avere
deserted, the doors were made fast, and a dead silence reigned ;
the busy life of the sseter was over, and the merry laugh of
the dairy-maid was heard no more. From there a short walk
brought me to the high-road, near the base of the Filefjeld.
It was the 19th of September, and my suraraer rarables over
the raountains were ended for that year ; I found myself again
on the shores of the Great Sogne fjord, having crossed once
more from the Baltic to the North Sea, between the sixty-first
and sixty-third parallels of latitude.

X 2

308 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER XXIX.
Large Swedish Estates. — Fine Chateaux. — Art Treasures. — Spoils of the Thirty
Years' War. — ^Knight's Hall. — Simplicity of Life. — Lake Malar. — Drottningholm
and its Paintings. — Drottningholm Park. — The Island of Bjorko. — An Ancient
Place. — The Palace of Gripsholm. — A Magnificent Portrait^gallery. — Historical
Faces.— Sad Tales of Gripsholm.— Erik XIV.— The Town of Strengniis.— The
Home of Axel Oxenstjerna. — The Jader Church. — Eskilstuna. — The Hjelmar
Lake. — Orebro. — Engelbrekt.— Vesteras. — Stromsholm Canal. — Sigtuna. — The
Chateau of Skokloster. — Valuable Treasures. — Relics of the Thirty Tears' War.
— The Province of Sddermanland. — ^Wing3,ker. — Chateaux of Stora Sundby and
Safstaholm. Strangers travelling in Sweden, unless they raake it a spe
cial object, have but a faint idea of the great nuraber of large
landed estates, castles {slott), chateaux, and tine country-seats
which are entailed in the families of the old nobility, many
of whom bear names illustrious in the history of Scandinavia
and of Europe. These estates are found in the midst of fer
tile tracts, and not farther north than the province of Upland ;
they become more nuraerous from Lake Malar southward,
while in the southern part of the peninsula they dot the coun
try everywhere.
Many of these ancestral horaes, built in the fourteenth cen
tury, are picturesquely beautiful, surrounded by superb woods,
meadows, fields, and clear lakes and streams. Within their
walls the halls are filled with art treasures ; paintings by the
old masters of the Italian, Dutch, Flemish, French, and other
schools are abundant. One raeets geras by Raphael, Rubens,
Rerabrandt, Hobbimas, Guido, Vandyck, Claude, Correggio,
Salvator Rosa, Poussin, Snyders, Ruysdiiel, Wouverraan, Lely,
Ehrenstrahl, Paul Veronese, Wertmiiller, Velasquez, Pietro di
Cortona, Zucchero, Leandro Bassano, Backhuysen, Paul Pot
ter, Mignard, Domenichino, Jordiiens, and Caraphuysen ; be-

ART TREASURES OF SWEDISH CHATEAUX. 309
sides several Swedish artists, among whom are Pilo, Laurseus
Martin, Sandberg, Lundberg, Taraval, Claude Lorraine, Pash,
Breda, Roslin (portrait -painter), Borgognone, Zorg, Vanloo,
Chardin, Boucher, Loutherbourg, D'Oudry, De Raoul, David
Kraft, Adam Behn, Bremraer, etc., etc. The noble historical
portraits bring up vivid pictures of by -gone centuries with
kings, queens, princes, statesmen, warriors — men of great re
pute ; old ladies, sweet and beautiful women, whose faces ap
pear to smile upon those who look at them, with tints as
fresh as if their likenesses had been painted yesterday.
Many of these portraits were presented by the persons thera
selves to some meraber of the families whose walls they now
adorn. Besides valuable pa,intings, the halls are often filled
with mauy gems, cabinets, old furniture, clocks, arms, shields,
and curiosities of all sorts — the spoils of the Thirty Years'
War, and other famous campaigns, brought or sent home by
the victorious generals of the Swedish army.
Some of these chateaux contain a Riddarsal (knight's hall),
often of great magnificence. There, in olden times, the armor
of the knights was kept, and on the Avails there are niches or
compartments, where the harness of mail was kept bright and
shining; in them are also often large and valuable libraries.
Not unfrequently they are built with several towers and pin
nacled roofs, and surrounded by a moat, Avith stately avenues
of linden, elm, horse-chestnut, or other trees leading to them ;
while flower-gardens and greenhouses add their charms to the
scene. I have noticed a growing opinion throughout the country in
favor of abolishing the Fideihommiss (entailed estate), and
allowing the children to divide equally the property of their
parents. I have but little doubt, unless there is a revulsion of
feeling on this subject, that the law of entail will be abolished,
and indeed no estate can now be entailed.
If fortunate enough to be invited as a guest, the stranger is
surprised at the simplicity of life, and the unostentatious man
ners of the family; the hostess quietly superintending the
house, and a friendly feeling existing between the landlord
and his tenant, or the laborer on the estate. The urbanity of

310 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
the superior towards his inferior is delightful to see, and could
be imitated with advantage in many other countries.
I have been in no country where its inhabitants did not be
lieve themselves, for one reason or another, more religious or
moral than the rest of mankind ; the same may be said of dif
ferent religious sects. I have also remarked that the nobility
everywhere think theraselves — in blood, antiquity, or deeds of
valor — superior to those of other lands. They of course do
not declare this in words; but their manner and actions in
speaking of foreign lands indicate, unmistakably, such an idea.
Any one who has studied the history of Scandinavia sees
indubitable proof of the reraote ancestry of raany Swedish
farailies, and in no country can there be found a more brill
iant record of deeds of valor and consummate generalship.
We will now wander awhile by the Malar. There are no
lakes in Scandinavia around whose shores are clustered so
many historical reminiscences, so many mementos of the past,
from the Stone Age to that brightest epoch of Swedish his
tory, the period of the Wasa Dynasty — under which Sweden
rose to the rank of a great power, and exerted a governing in
fiuence in the councils of Europe. Sailing by the shores of
lovely islands, the traveller passes a spot once celebrated as a
lieathen site, or sees a town whose church or cathedral recalls
the palmy days of the Roraan Catholic poAver in mediseval
times, when the monks owned the best of the land in almost
every country.
At a distance of about seven railes from Stockholm is the
island of Lofo, one of the largest and most beautiful found
in the Malar ; on its shores is built Drottningholm, a hand
some royal residence. The foundation of the present castle
was laid by Queen Hedvig Eleonora, of Holstein, the widow
of Charles X., who Avas the first king Avho dared to cross with
his army on the ice between the Danish islands, and who led
it victorious into the heart of Poland, and it was finished
during the reign of her son, Charles XL, 1660-97. The build
ers of this noble structure Avcre Nicodemus Tessin, the elder
and the younger. The palace is an imposing edifice, built
near the water, and commands a tine vicAV of the lake and

TUE PARK OF DROTTNINGHOLM. 311
of its rocky and AVooded shores. Avenues of lindens diverge
in different directions towards charming spots. The grounds
are laid out either in the old French, Dutch, or English style.
From the terrace a flight of steps leads to a garden — which re
minds one of France — ornamented with vases and groups in
bronze and marble of considerable merit, with several foun
tains, artificial ponds, and water-avenues where swans live and
breed. There is a Theatre de Verdure (the French name has
been kept), a most unique and charming structure, built by
Gustavus IIL, with stage and roora of clipped trees aud turf,
where that sovereign loved to act French plays — for the lan
guage of France was then and is still the one spoken at court
and used in official documents. There is also a maze of cora-
plicated walks, hidden by trees and bushes ; a Swiss cottage ;
Flora's hill, with the statue of the goddess ; the Kina slott, or
Chinese castle — a sort of plaything — built in 1752 by King
Adolf Frederick, and presented by hira to his queen, Lovisa
Ulrika, on her birthday. This building is filled with Chinese
curiosities. And near the so-called Canton Village, composed
of a number of villas, was a factory hamlet, where the raanu-
facture of steel and iron ware was carried on — conducted by
that king himself, probably then the most skilled locksmith
and turner in Sweden.
Ascending wide steps leading to the palace, one enters a
hall recognized at a first glance by its decorations as the work
of Tessin. A noble staircase leads to the rooras above, where
several hours can be pleasantly spent in looking over the
paintings, tapestry, collections of china, and portraits of King
Adolph Frederick (1751-'71) and his beautiful blue -eyed
wife. Queen Louisa Ulrika, sister of Frederick the Great
of Prussia. Her letters to her " tres chere maman," the
Queen of Prussia, which are numerous and written in French,
teem with the love this remarkable woman had for the arts,
and show also the great interest she took in Drottningholm.
The "Salle des Conteraporains " contains the pictures of
recent sovereigns, among them good Queen Victoria in her
youth. Napoleon IIL, the Empress Eugenie, etc.
One pauses before the fine portrait of Peter Olsson, a re-

312 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
raarkable man in his day, when Sweden had a Parliament
coraposed of the four estates of the realm — the nobles, the
clergy, the merchants, and the peasants.
Farther westward from Drottningholm is the island of
Bjorko, a famous port in the later centuries of the pagan
era. On the northern extreraity are still seen nuraerous re
mains of the old Birka. The earth there is filled with coal
and ashes, among which are sometimes found household uten
sils, ornaments, and arms, with imraense nurabers of animal
bones ; thus, to a certain extent, raaking these heaps correspond
to the so-called " Kjokkenmoddinger " of older periods.
As the inhabitants of the town were often exposed to the
attacks of Vikings, and could not meet force with force, they
had tried by fillings to render the entrance to the harbor
difficult. On the east side is still seen a rampart Avith open
ings for entrances, and which no doubt also surrounded the
town on the, south side, but has long been obliterated, and
given room for arable land.
The hill on the west end of the town was similarly en
closed except on one side, where it was so steep that forti
fications were considered unnecessary. This Avail differs from
those of sirailar forts in the Malar Valley, in that it is not
raade of loose stones piled upon each other, but .of a stone wall
covered with earth. This place offered perhaps the last refuge
for the inhabitants ; in spite of this, however, it was finally de
stroyed. This event raust have happened after the year 936,
when Bishop Unne, of Bremen, died there, and before 1070,
when it is related that it was so nearly annihilated that its
site could hardly be distinguished.
It is said that there, in the year 829, Christianity was preach
ed for the first time to the Swedes by Ansgarius. A stone
cross was erected in 1834 on the shore to commemorate the
event. In the biography of Ansgarius — a monk sent from Corbey,
France, to Hamburg, Avhere he became archbishop of the city,
and made an Englishman named Simon the first bishop in
Bjorko — written by Rimbert, probably a contemporary of
his, Birka is mentioned as an important port, situated in the

>-)ocarotui

THE CHATEAU OF GRIPSHOLM. 813
land of the Svear, where many rich raerchants dwelt, and where
there was an abundance of all the good things of this life,
and enormous treasures. He further relates that the inhab
itants, at the time of an unexpected attack by the deposed
King Anund, who came with the Danes, took refuge in a fort
lying close by the town ; as, however, the fort was not very
strong, and the defenders few, they entered into negotiations
with Anund, and he promised them peace in consideration of
2000 pounds of silver, which were without difficulty collected
and weighed out to him.
Adam, another chronicler of this time, says that Birka is a
town situated not far from Upsala, the most renowned heathen
temple of the Svear.
On the shores of the Gripsholm fjord, near the village of
Mariefred, stands the old and stately palace of that name.
The former structure was built in the beginning of the four
teenth century, aud was destroyed in 1434, The estate after
wards came into the possession of Sten Sture the elder, then
regent of the kingdom, Avho afterwards gave it to the cloister
of Mariefred, frora which it was taken by King Gustaf Erikson
Wasa I., who erected the present building, which was finished
in 1537, The four towers were naraed after the four sons —
Erik, Johan, Magnus, and Karl,
In the outer court-yard lie two large cannons of beautiful
workmanship, called by the people the boar and the sow, taken
by Count Jacob de la Gardie at Ivanogorod, in Russia, in the
year 1612.
To the lover of history a pilgrimage to Gripsholm, which
raay be called the pantheon of the Wasa family and of their
contemporaries, is of great interest. This collection of por
traits, numbering about two thousand, is of its kind, I think,
the finest and most valuable in Europe, for it includes a wide
rauge of sovereigns, and men and women of note unrivalled in
number. Some of these are even anterior to the Wasa family,
and are five hundred years old. Here are found the portraits
of Gustavus Adolphus, of the diplomatists of the Peace of
Westphalia, the councillors of Charles XI. and Charles XIL,
the sovereigns Avho reigned at the tirae of Gustavus IIL, many

314 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
distinguished persons, both Swedish aud foreign statesmen,
kings, queens, beautiful and ugly woraen, etc ; besides there
are numerous curiosities — old furniture, precious wall-papers,
rich silver vessels, etc.
There are portraits of the Stures, once regents of Sweden.
On the 1st of May, 1471, a general Diet met in Arboga, where
Sten Sture the elder was with acclamation chosen to be regent
and chief of the kingdom, raainly because the Swedes were
unable to agree upon a native king, and also because a large,
and for the time being omnipotent, party would under no
conditions have a continuation of the union with Denmark
and Norway.
On November 11th, 1497, King Johan of Denmark and
Norway was also accepted as King of Sweden, on account of
the ascendency of the Union party in Sweden. In 1501 he
was again deposed, and Svante Sture elected regent. He was
not related to Sten Sture the elder, but of another family.
He died in 1512, and was succeeded by his son, Sten Sture
the younger, who was, however, not chosen at any general
Diet, but only by the chiefs of the then all-powerful native
party. He died in January, 1520.
There are several portraits of Gustaf Erikson Wasa, who
reigned 1521 to 1560 — a man of uncommon ability, energy,
and of undaunted courage, the founder of the Wasa Dy
nasty. He was the progenitor of a line of warlike kings,
during whose reigns appeared a succession of generals of
most brilliant military genius, which perhaps has not been
equalled before or since. Grandfather of the great Gustavus
Adolphus, his life is most reraarkable and romantic. He was
in early manhood a fugitive from the Danes, who oppressed
his country and who sought his life — often not knowing where
to lay his head — going here and there, trying to make the
people rise and throw off the yoke of the foreigner — meeting
with disappointments, but never despairing, and dying full of
honor. In an interesting likeness painted by his son Erik
ho is represented clad in the steel armor, inlaid Avitli gold,
which ho wore at the battle of Brunkeberg. In another he
is represented Avith a white flowing beard.

-I COLLECTION OF HISTORICAL PORTRAITS. 315
Sigrid Eskilsdotter Bauer, married in 1475 to Magnus Karls-
son Wasa, grandmother of the founder of the dynasty, is rep
resented as a young and beautiful girl.
We notice the three queens of Gustaf Wasa — Catherine (his
first), daughter of Duke Magnus of Saxe-Lauenburg, mother
of his eldest son, the unfortunate Erik ; Margaret Lejonhuf vud,
mother of ten children ; Catherine Stenbock, two portraits,
one representing her as young and beautiful, another in her
old age.
The Knights' Hall is one of the most interesting in the
palace, for there the visitor sees the contemporaries of the
first Wasa, Among the most prominent portraits are those
of Francis I, of France, Henry VIII, of England, Charles V.,
Emperor of Gerraany, Queen Isabella of Denraark, wife of
Christian I., daughter of Archduke Philip of Austria and
Johanna of Castile, and sister of the Eraperor Charles V.
Among the French are Flenry IV. and his great minister
Sully, Marie de Medicis, Anne of Austria, Louis XIV. and
XV., the Duchess of Orleans, the Prince of Conti, Princess
Mazarin, the great Conde, Henrietta of England, the Countess
of Soissons, La Valliere, Cardinal Fleury, and raany others.
One pauses before Charles IX. and his first wife, Maria do
Pfalz, and Kristina of Holstein, his second, the raother of
Gustavus Adolphus.
Here are the faces of raany of the contemporaries of Gus
tavus Adolphus, the last male direct of the Wasa. On the 25tb
of Noveraber, 1620, Gustavus Adolphus II. Avas married in
Stockholm to Princess Maria Eleonora of Brandenburg. Her
father Avas Electoral Prince Johan Sigisraund of Brandenburg,
and her raother was Anna of Prussia. The young queen was
distinguished by an uncoraraon beauty ; her hair was dark,
forehead, nose, and eyebrows highly arched, the eyes large
and deep blue, the figure petite, the teraper lively and con
descending. Also the sweet Ebba Brahe, the first love of
the great hero, and who reciprocated his affection, but who,
through the queen-raother, raarried Jacob de la Gardie while
Adolphus was waging Avar against Poland. Oxenstjerna, the
famous chancellor, has two portraits ; tho generals of the

316 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
Thirty Years' War ; Charles X., the successor of Gustaf Adol
phus, also a great warrior; his queen, Hedvig Eleonora of
Holstein-Gottorp, whora he married in October, 1654 ; Charles
XI. and his wife, Ulrika Eleonora of Denmark ; Charles XIL,
Adolphus Frederick, Louisa Ulrika.
England is well represented. Not the least interesting are
the portraits of Henry VIIL, Mary Stuart, Elizabeth, and
of tbe Georges, etc., etc. Erik XIV., the son of Gustaf
Wasa, in one of his love-letters to Queen Elizabeth, states
that she is wrong in supposing that he wished the hand of
Mary Stuart.
One sees Frederick II. of Prussia, the Emperor Joseph of
Austria, Charles of Spain, Stanislas, the last King of Poland,
Sigisraund of Poland, Christian IV. of Denmark, Philip IV.
of Spain, and the seventy Ministers of the Peace of Westphalia,
which terminated the great Thirty Years' War.
In a large' hall are portraits of celebrities of the period of
Gustaf HI. (1771-1792). These paintings are the presents
of the sovereigns of that time to their dear brother: among
them are Maria of Portugal, who founded the Brazilian em
pire, and Maria Theresa of Austria. The great Catherine, in
one picture — sent by her to Gustaf — is represented as a fine
old dame. In another she is a young woman, with her
infant Paul, and Peter the Great by her side. Oue stands
thoughtfully before a beautiful likeness of Marie Antoinette,
by Wertmiiller, a portrait and historical painter, born iu Stock
holm in 1751., In 1770 he Avent to Paris, Avhere he created
quite a sensation, and among other things painted the unfort
unate queen and her children, about which Madame Campan
in her memoirs says that it was the most striking likeness of
this queen she had seen. After having remained in Paris
some tAventy years he returned to his native country ; but in
1800 again went to Paris, and thence to Philadelphia, AA'here
he married, and died in 1811. No doubt many geras of the
great artist are to be found in America. A sincere friendship
existed between Marie Antoinette and Gustaf III., and in the
Gustavean collection are found several of her letters. The
landgraves of Ilcsse, and other German princes, now entirely

KING ERIK'S CRUELTIES, 317
forgotten, are numerous ; also Catherine Opaluska, queen of
Stanislas Leczinski, a beautiful Avoman ; Williara of Orange,
Queen Anne, and a raost ridiculous portrait of six court-ladies
of Queen Ulrika's court, represented with heads over the bod
ies of hens.
At the death of Gustaf Wasa, Gripsholm came into the pos
session of his son Charles, who afterwards ascended the throne
under the title of Charles IX. The old castle has raany sad
tales to tell. Frora the Knights' Hall, descending through a
narrow staircase, you enter a vaulted cell where the victiras of
the blood-bath of Linkoping were once incarcerated. In one
of the towers is a roora with three windows overlooking the
lake ; here Johan, one of the sons of Gustaf Wasa IL, was
imprisoned by his brother Erik — who had previously gone
to England — for rebellion, and reraained there three years.
Queen Elizabeth wrote to the latter in 1565, inquiring the
cause of his brother's iraprisonraent, and saying that she
would be glad to see him again reinstated in the favor of his
king- The four sons of Gustaf Wasa were violent in their disposi
tion ; Erik was subject to terrible fits of ungovernable passion.
Dissatisfaction having arisen in the country on account of the
imprisonment of Duke Johan, King Erik, of a very suspi
cious mind, feared the hate of the nobility, and especially the
jealousy of the Sture faraily. A report was spread that a
conspiracy, at the head of Avhich these nobles were said to be,
was soon to break out. Svante Sture and his sons, together
with Erik Stenbock, Sten Erikson Lejonhufvud, and others
were put iu prison in the castle of Upsala. Soon after Goran
Persson, the evil-rainded adviser of the king, whispered into
his ear that Johan had escaped frora prison, and at the head
of his supporters was on the way to Upsala, then the royal resi
dence, and that he carae with the intention of revenging hira
self. Erik then lost all control over hiraself, and ordered the
execution of the prisoners. With his own hand he gave Nils
Sture several thrusts with his poniard ; he did not even spare
his forraer teacher, Dionysius Beurreus, who was warmly at
tached to hira, and sought to calra his excited mind. There-

318

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,

upon came repentance and despair : he fied, disguised in the
garb of a peasant, and avoided all the people he raet. After
having in sorae measure regained his senses, he sought to ap
pease the relatives of the murdered nobles by valuable pres
ents ; and these also announced that they would not revenge
themselves on the king, because they laid the blame on his ad
viser, Goran Persson. During this state of mind he had been

ASPO OHTTEOII, On TUE ISLAND OF TOSTEEO.

persuaded to set his prisoner at liberty. Johan received back
his duchy (Finland), and a reconciliation betAA^een the two
brothers took place. But Erik soon gave new causes for dis
satisfaction, and Goran Persson regained the confidence of
the king, who demanded back the presents he had given to
the farailies of the raurdered nobles. He raarried Katarina
MSnsdotter, Avho was of Ioav birth, and publicly crowned her

IHE HOME OF OXENSTJERNA. 319
as queen : this caused great dissatisfaction among the nobility.
Around Johan the disaffected asserabled, and Duke Charles
also joined them, whereupon Erik, deserted by all, was capt
ured in 1568, and adjudged guilty of high crimes, and kept a
prisoner for nine years, until he, in 1577, was poisoned upon
the order of Johan at Orbyhus. Several years of his captivity
was passed at Gripsholm.
After leaving Gripsholm, following the indented shores of
the Malar, one comes to the old historical town of Strengnas,
now, however, of little importance. The cathedral is a fine
building, dating from 1291, and has a length of 300 feet.
Charles IX. is buried there, and many other renowned person
ages, among them Sten Sture the elder. Opposite the town
is the island of Tostero, with the old church of Aspo.
Farther on from Strengnas is the well-known old chateau of
Fiholm, once belonging to Axel Oxenstjerna, the great adviser
of Gustavus Adolphus. At a short distance is the Jader church,
in which are numerous mementos of the Thirty Years' War,
and the tomb of the chancellor.

SEAL OF T0E811ALI.A. — ST. OLAF IN a BOAT.

Beyond, a short distance up the the Eskilstuna River, is
situated the little town of Torshalla, and that of Eskilstuna —
the latter being the raost important and populous of those on

320

THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.

and near the southern shore of the Malar. It has considerable
manufactures of arms, cutlery, etc. Near the western extrem
ity of the lake are the small towns of Koping and Arboga,
situated on the rivers which bear their names.

AEliOOA OlUIRniL

From the Arboga River a canal runs to Lake Hjelmar.
A couple of railes from the western end of this lake is the
old city of Orebro, with a population of over 10,000 inhabi
tants, situated on a plain Avhich is divided by the SvartS
River, here forming several sraall islands. Orebro has in the
older history of Sweden played quite an important part. Of
ancient buildings the most remarkable is tbe castle, on an
island in the river. It is built in a square Avitli four towers,
of which one still has sorae of its loop-holes left. The City
Hall is a fine new stone building in the Gothic style, and nota-

THE OREBRO CHURCH.

321

ble for a small tower. The church was built in the fourteenth
century, and contains the reraains of Engelbrekt Engelbrekts-
son, a faraous man, born in Dalecarlia, Avhose statue adorns the
open place near the church.
During the reign of Erik XIII. (1397-1439) his bailiffs com-

OKEBEO OHTIBOII.

mitted the most lawless and cruel acts; araong them Josso
Eriksson Avas especially distinguished for his many revoltina
cruelties: he resided at the castle of Vesteras, and his district
coraprised a part of Vestmanland and Dalarne. By enormous
and unjust taxes he robbed the peasants of their propertv^ ; and
VOL. II. ''¦'''

322 THE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN.
when thus their horses and oxen had been taken from them, he
harnessed the peasants to the plough, and their wives, even
the pregnant ones, to the hay-loads. Unprotected woraen were
kidnapped, and forced to submit to his infamous passions ; and
many wealthy raen were imprisoned on false accusations, and
then sentenced, to enable him to confiscate their property.
When the peasants came to hira and raade their complaints,
he had their ears cut off, or had them lashed, or hung up in
sraoke until they M^ere smothered.
At this time lived near Falun copper-mine Engelbrekt En-
gelbrektsson ; he was a noble, though not a very high one.
Although small of stature, he was, hoAvever, of dauntless cour
age, and was besides eloquent, and well versed in the arts and
sciences of his time, as he had in his youth resided at the
courts of sorae of the great men. He felt pity for the Dale
carlians on account of the oppression under Avhich they suffer
ed, and promised to appear before the king and try to have
their wrongs righted, as well as to have Josse called aAvay.
Engelbrekt therefore went to Copenhagen. Erik XIII. would
not at first believe him ; but as he offered to answer therefor
with his life, his majesty referred him to the council, who Avent
to Dalecarlia and examined into the matter, and found it to
be true, and so reported to the king. When Engelbrekt
appeared before the latter, he said, in great anger, "Thou
always dost coraplain. Go away, and never show thyself
again before ray eyes !" He obeyed and went away saying,
iu leaving, " Once more I will corae back !" When he re
turned horae with this answer to the peasants, they turned
out from every house, and resolved to die rather than longer
endure such oppression. They therefore arose, and under En-
gelbrekt's command marched to Vesteras, where they were met
by the council, who promised to see that their grievances were
remedied, and they at once departed satisfied. But noth-
ino- was done towards the fulfilment of these promises, and
Josse soon again sent his armed men to force thera to pay
taxes. They therefore rose a second tirae, but instead of go-
in »¦ down to Vesteras, where they had been sent away with
fine promises, they went to the castle of Borganas, by the Dala

ENGELBREKT, 323
River, south-west of Falun, and burned it ou raidsumraer-day,
1434. The rebellion soon assuraed great proportions, and
within a short time the Danes were driven away from the
Avliole kingdom ; an armistice was then closed, and Engelbrekt
chosen regent of the kingdom ; and at the conclusion of peace
he was also made commander of Orebro Castle. King Erik
did not keep his Avord ; a second rebellion broke out, also un
der the leadership of Engelbrekt, Avho had now become very
eminent, and thus was an object of the envy of the great
nobles of the kingdom. One of these, Bengt Stensson Natt
och Dag (night and day), of Goksholra, a castle by Lake Hjel-
raar, had a quarrel with our hero, which, however, was set
tled in Orebro, April, 1436 ; and when the latter, on the 3d of
May, 1436, was on his way to Stockholm, he encamped for the
night on an islet in the Hjelmar, close to Goksholra. Hither
carae the son of Bengt and killed Engelbrekt, who expected
no harra frora his late adversary, after the reconciliation.
As soon as the neAvs of this treacherous raurder spread, the
peasants asserabled and tried to avenge it, but the murder
er had fled. Therefore they Avent to the islet, where they
picked up the mangled body of their beloved chieftain, and
with tears carried it to Mellosa church, where they buried
hira who had been their only protection and help in their
oppression. About twenty railes from Orebro lies the pretty town of
Nora, which is the centre of a very important mining re
gion, araong which the ore-fields Striberg, Dalkarlsberg, Pers-
hytte, and Klacka are the raost reraarkable. Nora parish is
the one in which raore iron ore is mined than in any other
of SAveden.
The northern shores are also very interesting. Vesteras, at
the mouth of the SvartS, River, with a population of 5448,
in mediseval times was an important place ; it had four
churches and a Dominican monastery. The cathedral now
standing near the Avater was built during the twelfth century,
and has a spire of 320 feet, the highest in Sweden, and a
length of 306. In it are the tombs of Svante Sture, Erik
XIV., and Chancellor Magnus Brahe. The elementary school
Y 2

324 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
has a fine library of 12,000 volumes, which includes that of
the Electoral Prince of Mayence, given by Axel Oxenstjerna.
The castle of Stromsholm was built by Gustavus I., and
was forraerly used as a suraraer residence by the Swedish
kings. Here is also the largest stud of Sweden, and a riding-
school for the officers of the array.
At Stromsholm begins a canal more than seventy railes in
length, of which only about seven railes are dug, while the rest
are formed by natural watercourses. This route offers one of
the raost beautiful water-ways of Sweden. The most north
erly end terminates at the village of Smedjebacken, in Dale
carlia. Numerous iron-works are met with along the journey.
On the northern shore, some twenty-five miles from Stock
holm, is the Sigtuna fjord, from which one can journey all the
way by water to Upsala, Near the Avater is the royal castle
of Rosersberg, with beautiful surroundings. Here is the vil
lage of Sigtuna, often mentioned in the old sagas, and in those
days a rich and populous city.
In the raiddle and end of the twelfth century the coasts
of the Baltic were constantly harassed by the attacks of the
heathen fleets of countries to the east. Such a fleet, under the
Esthonians, entered the Malar in 1187 and destroyed Sigtuna,
which, after the destruction of Birka, was then the raost im
portant trading toAvn. They carried aAvay two large church
doors of massive silver, which are still in the church of Nov
gorod in Russia. Of the forraer churches only a few ruins
reraain, and one cannot but wonder hoAv the immense boul
ders of which they are constructed were put in their places.
Farther up the fjord, after passing the narrow strait of
Erikssund, one enters the bay of Sko, in the midst of dark
forests. Near the shore loom up the towers of the castle of
Skokloster. This cloister was founded in the latter part of the
thirteenth century, and was destroyed by tire. Not far from
the castle the monastery church still stands, Avell preserved.
Karl Gustaf Wrangel was one of the raost renoAvned gen
erals of Gustavus Adolphus, but his great achievements were
raade after the death of his king ; he was chief commander
of the armies at the Peace of Westphalia.

THE CASTLE OF SKOKLOSTER. 325
In the church are several paintings of artistic value, taken
from Oliva monastery, near Dantzic, Karl Gustaf Wrangel's
equestrian statue, erected in his chapel, the walls of which are
ornamented Avitli half -raised representations from his cam
paigns, and the grave-stone of the holy Holmgeir. The pulpit,
the altar, aud other ornaraents are spoils from Germany.
Gustavus Adolphus gave Skokloster to the Field -marshal
Herman Wrangel, whose son, the still raore renowned Karl
Gustaf Wrangel, erected the present edifice.
The only child of Admiral Wrangel, a daughter, married a
Brahe, and thus the estate carae entailed in that illustrious
faraily. The chateau is one of the handsoraest private ones
in Sweden. It forms an exact square ; it encloses a court, has
four stories, and is flanked by four towers, which are a story
higher than the rest of the edifice. The principal entrance
towards the lake is marked by a frontispiece, with the Wrangel
coat-of-arms. The arch of the vestibule is supported by eight
Ionic pillars of marble, a gift of Queen Christina to Kail
Gustaf Wrangel, but which Count Nils Brahe, during the " re
duction " of Charles XL, had to redeem at an immense sum of
money. The reduction during the reign of Charles XI. em
braced the restitution of such crown estates as had, during the
preceding reigns, especially during that of Queen Christina,
been given to nobles for real or pretended services. The in
terior of the castle is a museum of curiosities ; stairways and
corridors are ornaraented with paintings, mostly portraits of
Wrangel's Scottish companions in arms. Room after room
is filled with portraits, including other comrades of Field-raar-
slial Herman Wrangel, and dating back to 1623. As we looked
at them our thoughts turned to that fierce struggle marked by
the railitary genius of Gustavus Adolphus and his generals.
One is almost bewildered in the rooms containing the col
lections of arms — which number about twelve hundred — com
prising fire-arras of all kinds, and a great number of sabres,
swords, poniards, and bows, some inlaid with gold and pre
cious stones; others of historic value, such as the sword of
the Hussite chief Ziska ; and armor taken by Marshal Wrangel
and other victorious generals. Not the least interesting is the

326

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

beautiful shield of the great emperor Charles V., which Avas
taken in Prague when that city was sacked by the Swedes.
The state apartments are hung with old tapestry — the gift
of Louis XIV. of France ; others are hung with gilt skins.
A great delight is the old-fashioned chimney, reaching to
the ceiling, with beautifully -carved armorial designs. The
walls are adorned with portraits, Venetian mirrors, cabinets
inlaid Avith ivory, amber, and blood-stone; china and great

KNUTISY OlIUEOU, IN UPLAND.

numbers of objects of art are arranged in huge cabinets in the
so-called King's Hall, the ceiling of Avhich is a masterpiece of
the plasterer's art.
In historical paintings Skokloster ranks next to Gripsholm.
The collection of portraits here also is very fine, including the

THE PROVINCE OF SODERMANLAND. 327
families of Wrangel, Brahe, Konigsmark, and Bjelke. There is
a splendid library, containing over 30,000 volumes, and raany
valuable manuscripts and letters, among which is one of Erik
XIV., in which he orders negotiations for a marriage with
Mary Stuart, which he denied when he wished to Aved the
English queen, Elizabeth. One is never wearied in looking at
the wonderful treasures : nearly every object has a tale to tell.
From the paintings we return to the cabinets, and back again
to the paintings, being loath to part from this most fascinating
collection, which it is hoped will never leave the country.
We will bid adieu to the Malar, upon whose shores we have
lingered many a day dreaming of the past.
From the Malar some tirae may be spent pleasantly in visit
ing the castles, chateaux, and churches of Upland, many of
which are full of interest.
The province of Sodermanland is bounded on the north by
the southern shores of the Malar, and partly on the west by
Lake Hjelmar. The landscape is in many districts well wood
ed and picturesque, with lakes and streams in every direction ;
the coniferous forests of the north are often replaced by trees
of a greater variety, the foliage of which adds to the beauty of
the country. The linden, the elm, and the horse-chestnut at
tain large growth, while the oaks are often of superb size ;
many of the hills and dales are clad with those pre-eminent
ly Scandinavian trees, the birch and the fir. In the western
part of the province — Wing§,ker — most of the people still ad
here to their national costume, which is for the men composed
of a long woollen Avhite homespun coat, coming down to the
ankle, with crimson bar lining, blue cuffs, leather knee-breech
es, and short waistcoats. The women's head-dress is a high red
roll, which on Sunday is covered with a ruffled cap of varied
colors and forms, according as the wearer is maiden, betrothed,
Avife, or raother.
Numerous estates are scattered here and there, with fine old
chateaux situated in lovely retired spots. On the eastern end
of the Hjelraaren is the magnificent estate of Stora Sundby,
belonging to the family of De Geer. The castle is imposing,
with turrets ; the apartments are of royal splendor.

328

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,

Near Wing§,ker is Safstaholm, entailed in the faraily of
Bonde. The chateau is surrounded by rural scenery ; its
apartments are adorned Avith Italian and Dutch paintings, and
others of great merit; the library is very valuable, and some
of the archives date back to 1300.

BTOEA SUNDBY, IN SODEEMANLAND.

The finest estate, not onlj' in regard to size, but ou account
also of its beautiful situation, and grand ancestral home, is
Eriksberg, Avhich is entailed in another branch of the family of
Bonde. The castle, Aviiich is about two hundred years old,
occupies a commanding position on a hill overlooking the
charming little Eriksberg Lake. The raain building, shoAving
unmistakable traces of the master-hand of Tessin, is of stone,
three stories high, with ground -fioor and four AA'ings. Its
rooms contain choice objects of art from tbe period during
Avhicli it was built. The south-western Aving includes a richly
and tastefully decollated chapel. The elegant halls are orna-
uicnted Avith valuable portraits aud paintings. The former

ERIKSBERG.

TUE CHATEAU OF ERIKSBERG. 329
so-called audience-hall is now occupied by a library of 10,000
voluraes — as regards Scandinavian history, one of the most
complete in SAveden. The grounds are iu harraony with the
Avhole. BetAveen the two southern wings rises the castle ter
race, ornamented with statues, and directly in front of this is a
bronze fountain. Bounded on two sides by shady old linden
alleys, a spacious lawn stretches in front of the castle with
fio wer groups, bosques, and parterres.
One of the most prettily-situated estates of this province is
that of Sparreholm, on the shores of the charming little Lake
BS,fven. Its mansion, although it cannot corapare in gi-andeur
Avitli some others, presents to the visitor a raost cheerful and
inviting appearance. It has a fine library, a collection of coins,
aud also sorae good paintings of native aud foreign masters.
A few railes distant is the interesting old chateau of Sten-
liammar. It lies by Lake Valdemaren, surrounded by extensive
parks, iu Avhich may be seen stately old oaks and other decidu
ous trees. The beauty of the place is greatly enhanced by
the ever-changing panorama of the lake, with its maze of islets
aud Aviuding passages. The estate is mentioned as early as the
year 1300. The Avhole neighborhood is one of the most charm
ing iu Sodermanland, and is rich iu memorials frora by-gone
days.

330 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER XXX,
Across Sweden by Water. — Interesting Water-route. — The Gota Canal. — Prom the
Malar to the Baltic. — Osmo Church. — Soderkiiping. — Lake Roxen. — Ruins of
Stjernarp. — Wreta Church. — Tombs of the Tenth Century. — The Boren Lake. —
The Estate of Ulfisa.— A Story of the Past.— Lake Wettern or Vettern.— The
Town of Vadstena. — The Cloister of Vadstena. — St. Birgitta. — Its Monks. — High
Birth of its Nuns. — The Church of Vadstena. — Tomb of Queen Philippa of Eng
land and others. — Bo Jonsson. — Immense Wealth of Bo Jonsson. — Karl Niklas-
son. — His Death. — Bo Jonsson's Tomb. — The Castle of Vadstena. — Alvastra. —
Jonkijping, Grenna. — Visingsb Island. — From Carlsborg Inland. — Lake Viken.
— Lake Ymsen. — Scandinavia's largest Lake. — Towns on the Wenern. — The
Church of R§,da - Karlstad. — The Iron-works of Uddeholms. — Kinnekulle. — The
Chateau of Bijrstorp. — Ancient Jewels. — The Church of Husaby. — Olaf Skot-
konung. — Kollandso. — The Falls of Trollhattan. — Terminus of the Canal.
A CHARMING summer journey is that of crossing the penin
sula, frora sea to sea, by the Gota Canal and the lakes connect-
ina; the Baltic with the North Sea. Linger here and there
in the midst of the romantic scenery found on the banks of
some lonely river, or on the shores of lovely lakes; tarry
awhile in some clean, quiet, thrifty town, Avith castle, cathe
dral, or church dating frora mediseval times; visit sorae spot
where remains of the stone and bronze age are to be found ;
and stop at some old chateau which brings recollections of the
by-gone centuries.
This beautiful water-way, crossing the central part of Swe
den, is about 259 miles long, with 74 locks ; the highest level
reached is 308 feet 2 inches, on the Lake Viken, betAveen the
Wettern and the Wenern. The canal is 10 feet deep, gen
erally 48 feet wide at the bottom and 88 feet at the sur
face; the locks are 123 feet in length and 24 feet in Avidtli;
there are raore than 30 bridges over its course. The traffic is
considerable, the number of vessels cleared from the North
Sea to the Wenern averaging yearly betA\-een six and seven
thousand, and betAveen the lake and the Baltic about three

IHE ESTATE OF TULLGARN.

331

thousand. This superb work shows in several instances great
engineering skill; in raany places locks after locks are cut
out of solid granite hills. The construction is raade to last,
and the banks have been so built that they are secured against
dangers from steam navigation. Comfortable steamers make
the journey direct, and are generally two or three days on the
way, according to the number of stoppages to discharge or
take cargoes; others ply on their respective lakes from one
city to another, stopping at intermediate places.
From Stockholm the steamer follows the southern shore of
the Malar to Telge-viken, and ere long enters the Sodertelge
Canal, which connects the lake with the Baltic. Down ths

SHIP OAEEVING ST. EEIK TO 1-TNLAND.

fjord, and not far from the shore, about sixteen miles south
of Sodertelge, is the old and interesting church of Osmo,
Avhich possesses raany very old and grotesque paintings ; one
of thera represents the devil as the people believed him to be
in those days. Beyond is the royal chateau of Tullgarn, an
imposing edifice, surrounded by parks and gardens, luxuriously
decorated by the Swedish artist Hillerstrom. The estate, which
formerly belonged to some of Sweden's most faraous noble
farailies, such as Brahe, Bonde, Sture, Oxenstjerna, and De la
Gardie, was in 1772 sold to the CroAvn, and has since been
used as a summer residence for members of the royal family.
To the south, one enters the Slatbaken fjord, and soon after

332 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
looms up the tower of Stegeborg, a fine ruin by the sea. The
former castle was raentioned in the thirteenth century, when
King Birger used it as his residence. In its early history it
was raany tiraes besieged — taken and retaken by Swedes and
Danes. The tower is the only portion reraaining.
About ten miles from Stegeborg the entrance to the Gota
Canal is reached. Three miles beyond is the small town of
Sdderkoping, once a place of considerable importance, and
boasting in olden times of a castle, four churches, and tAvo
monasteries; of its churches only two reraain, St. Lars'and
St. Drothems. Continuing the journey, at about fifteen miles
from the sea the boat enters the charming Roxen, with its
wooded and hilly shores. The lake is 109 feet above the
Baltic, has a length of about 15 and a breadth of between 6
and 7 railes. It has three considerable streams — the Motala,
the outlet of Lake Wettern, the SvartSn, and the Stlng^n.
Along its shores are a number of large estates. Among the
historical ruins are those of Stjernarp, formerly the dwelling
of the Scotch earl, Robert Douglas, who entered Gustavus
Adolphus's service in 1631, and by his military genius rose to
great distinction. The castle was built in 1654, and Avithstood
the ravages of time well, until a fire in May, 1789, laid it in
ashes. It lies in a magnificent situation overlooking the lake
and surrounded by trees. The two wings escaped destruction ;
in one of them is the chapel, and the other is still occupied. The
court-yard is apparently square. On the north side the ruin
is four stories in height, with nine windows in width, and the
raiddle part, with three windows, rises two stories higher. In
the portal one can see traces of the beauty of the old building.
On the eastern shore of the lake, at the port of Berg, the
canal is continued, and sixteen locks have to be passed, which
makes the ascent tedious. Overlooking the lake near Berg
is the Wreta church, built on the ruins of the old monastery
which belonged to the Benedictines, and later to the Ber-
uardines, who sent out nuns all over the country. Here are
the tombs of Inge the younger, who reigned between 1118
and 1130, and his queen, Helena ; of King Ragwald Knap-
hiifde (1130-1133), belonging to the Stcnkil, and King Valde-

A BIT OF HISTORY. 333
mar Birgersson, of the Folkunga dynasties, besides other men
great in their day, but now forgotten.
In the Folkunga family was a renowned chieftain, Folke
Digre (the stout), who died about 1100; his posterity be
came very powerful. One of his great-grandsons was Birger
Jarl, who for a long time governed Sweden with a strong
hand, and was the founder of Stockholm. His son Valdemar,
who' in 1250 became first King of Sweden through his father,
was so only in name. The descendants occupied the Swedish
throne until 1389.
The canal skirts the shores of the Kungs Norrby Lake,
Avhich is below, and beyond this enters the Boren Lake, 245
feet above the sea, and 136 above the Roxen, which we have
left behind. This charming sheet of water is about nine railes
long, clear as crystal, and with beautiful shores. In Ekby-
borna church - toAver is seen the chamber where St. Birgitta
dwelt. Near by is the old estate of Ulf&sa, which belonged to
the Folkunga faraily in the twelfth century. Among the his
torical facts connected with them is one that is most pleasant
ly remembered, as follows :
Bengt, a brother of the powerful Birger Jarl, was lagman
(judge) of Ostergotland, and lived at UlfS,sa. All the other
brothers of the faraily had raarried woraen of the highest no
bility, and thus satisfied the pride of Birger Jarl. Bengt,
however, had fallen in love with a young girl of a family of
rauch less repute, but of such uncommon beauty that she Avas
generally called Sigrid the Fair. He had also married her
clandestinely, which greatly angered the proud Jarl. He
therefore sent Sigrid, as a wedding present, a cloak, half of
which was made of gold cloth, while the other half was of
coarse woollen material (vadmal), in order to thereby signify
how little suitable was a union between two persons of such
unequal stations, as Avas the case Avith Sigrid and Bengt. As an
ansAver Bengt returned the cloak to the Jarl, after first having
had the vadmal portion covered with gold, pearls, and pre
cious stones, so that this part of the cloak became rauch more
valuable than the other, Birger, still further enraged by this
constancy of his brother, promised to corae and have a talk

334 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
with Bengt himself, and soon after journeyed to Ulf Ssa. When
Bengt heard of his coraing he went away from home, and told
Sigrid to receive the Jarl, She therefore dressed herself in a
manner to heighten her great charms. On the arrival of Bir
ger, Sigrid met him, greeted him most reverently, and bade
him Avelcome. When the Jarl saw her, he was so enchanted
by her beauty, and modest though dignified demeanor, that
he forgot all his anger, erabraced and then kissed her, saying
that if his brother had left this undone, he would have to do
it hiraself. Bengt was now sent for, and the brothers were
reconciled, Bengt had by Sigrid a daughter, called Ingeborg,
who was married to Birger Persson Brahe of Finsta, lagman
of Upland. Their daughter Avas Birgitta^ who afterwards be
came a seeress and prophetess, and founded the cloister of
Vadstena, and finally was made a saint : people even frora
foreign lands came in pilgrimage to her tomb.
In the cathedral of Upsala is shown to this day the slab un
der which Birger Persson and Ingeborg were buried. The in
scription, which commences at the left foot of Birger, reads :
" Here lie the noble knight Sir Birger Persson, Upland's lag-
man, and his wife. Lady Ingeborg, with their children ; whose
souls may rest in peace. Pray for us." On the shield is
seen the coat-of-arms of Birger (two down-turned wings), and
on the sides of the stone his seven children, with their names.
Sir Birger died in 1328, and his wife. Lady Ingeborg, in 1314.
During the oldest times the people were their oavu judges
in their Things, their lagraan explaining the laws to them.
Later, this lagman, who was chosen by the people, but whose
office often descended frora father to son, acted as judge, as
well as speaker in the Things within the provinces ; and for
his decision were submitted a multitude of questions, not only
judicial, but also purely economical. Gradually the kings as
sumed the right of appointing the lagraan, and the functions of
his office changed, until they became purely judicial, correspond
ing Avith those of the present hdradshof dings (district judges).
The royal jury {kungsnamnd), similar to tbe present /id-
radsndmnd (district jury), formerly in some instances judged
cases in place of the king, without his presence or that of any

INDEPENDENCE OF THE OLD PROVINCES.

335

one in his stead. Their number was twelve in each judicial
district. The ruler during those tiraes travelled around in
the different provinces, and personally heard and judged cases
submitted to him. Every province then was an independent

BLAB OVEE THE GRAVE OF LAGMAN BIEGEE PEESSON AND HIS WIFE, INGEBOEG.

state, Avhicli had its own laws and its separate taxation ; and
the king on his accession to the throne had to go to every one
of them separately, and there receive the oath of allegiance of
their different populations. Just as the kingdora Avas a union

336 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
of independent states or provinces, every province was a union
of smaller districts ; while the district was a union of several
farailies, who joined together for rautual protection. The
raerabers of the family not only had a common origin, but
also were joined together for mutual assistance and respon
sibility. If one raember was killed, the whole kindred Avas
obliged to avenge his death, and had the right to receive an
indemnity in lieu thereof, which in the latter case Avas dis
tributed equally between the members.
The land was divided in the same manner; but in case of
a sale the relatives of the seller had the first right of bid
ding in the property. These free owners of the land were
the safeguards of society ; over them stood at the end of the
heathen age only the jairlar (earls) and the king. It is the
general idea that the inhabitants of Sweden in olden times
enjoyed a coraplete political equality ; this is, however, a mis
take ; for araong thera, as other nations, only the free possess
or of the soil, who had not entered the military service of any
one, had complete political rights.
Leaving the Boren, the ascent is by five connecting locks.
The distance between the lake and the Vettern is about tAvo
miles, and presents most charming views. On the south of
the water-way runs the outlet of Vettern, the Motala River
forming occasionally small falls, which set mills and forges
in raotion. Motala is near the raouth of the Gota Canal on
Lake Vettern, and is a village of some 1800 inhabitants, not
counting the employes of the iron works a little higher up
in its course. These works have the largest machine-shops in
Sweden, and are of great importance to the countrj- ; they em
ploy about 1700 people ; for Avhom are established schools,
dwelling-houses, hospitals, etc. TavcIvo railes north of Mo
tala are, in an exceedingly pretty neighborhood, the mineral
springs of Medevi. These Avaters were knoAvn as early as
the first periods of Christianity, but did not attract general
notice until 1674, when they were opened for the public.
Medevi resembles a little toAvn, Avith church, post-office, hos
pital, a large number of dAvellings for patients, fine parks,
promenades, etc.

THE CLOISTER OF VADSTENA. 337
The Vettern is the second largest lake in Scandinavia; it
has a length of 84 railes, and in its widest part a breadth of
over 20 ; its level is 297 feet above the Baltic, and its
greatest depth is 427 feet, showing its bottom to be rauch
below the sea-line. It is fed by a large number of small
streams. It is so clear and blue that when smooth it looks
like a mirror of blue glass. But the mariner at times dreads
its surface, Avhich is very sensitive, and without warning is
often stirred up without any apparent cause. It is also
noted for its eddies, whirlpools, and mirages. It is encircled
by four provinces — Nerike, Ostergotland, Sm§,land, and Ves
tergotland. It has but few islands, the largest being Visingso.
Upon the shores are five toAvns — Vadstena, Grenna, Jonko-
ping, Askersund, and Hjo.
On the eastern shore, a few miles south, is the famous town
of Vadstena, Avith 2500 inhabitants; it exports grain, lumber,
iron, and spirits. The place, celebrated in old Catholic times,
bad a cloister in the eleventh century. In 1383 a fine mon
astery was founded by St. Birgitta (St. Birgit), and consecrated
Avith great ceremony. " This establishraent was then the rich
est one in Sweden, receiving gifts of raoney and land from
all parts of the country. To be buried within its precincts
insured the entrance into heaven, and large offerings were
given for that object.
The convent of Vadstena was in constant coraraunication
with Italy. The house in Rome in which Birgitta had dAvelt
had been given to these monks, and was often used by them
and their people during their visits to the holy city. But the
intercourse Avas not limited to travels by its monks. From
Florence carae, in 1406, a request that it should send sorae oue
to the latter city to found a Birgittine cloister, Avhich later was
called Paradise. Pilgrimages were made to the shrine from
foreign countries ; and these pious devotees, who always left
sorae token of their visit, greatly increased the wealth of the
fathers. The Swedish clergy and monks during these times
consisted mostly of sous frora the farailies of common people,
or at least not from the higher strata of society. Among the
nuns it was, however, quite different ; for raany of the sisters
VOL. IL z

338

THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.

were daughters of the high nobility. The nuns of Vadstena
convent Avere, however, not of Swedish birth only, but many

\\\*\^v^ K

BLAB OVEE THE GEAVE OF QUEEN PHILIPPA.

Avere from Denmark, NorAvay, and surrounding countries. The
noble farailies shoAved their concern for the place by acquir
ing the right of having their remains buried Avithin the holy

OLD AND INTERESTING TOMBS, 339
precincts of its church. It was not the intention that the
cloister should become rich in silver and gold ; but presents
Avere nevertheless not refused. Queen Philippa gave to the
church two golden crowns, ornamented with precious stones,
the value of which was 1771 marks, a golden necklace, a gold
en girdle, and a golden tablet worth 1080 marks. In 1412 it
received from the two brothers, Sten and Ture Bjelke, a shrine
for preserving the bones of St. Birgitta, raade out of pure sil
ver, weighing 428-| marks, worth at that time about |40,000
of our present money — a very large sum.
The wealth of the nobles at that period must have been
enormous, for it is mentioned that Karl Knutsson at a feast
had on his table 1400 silver plates, besides innuraerable other
ornaments of gold and silver.
The monks and nuns lived well in those days. It is re
corded that twenty-five monks and one hundred and sixty nuns
consuraed yearly 480 bushels of rye, 96 bushels of wheat, 1152
bushels of malt, 192 bushels of barley, 26 barrels of butter,
120 oxen, 300 sheep, 3600 pounds of pork, 2000 pounds of
cheese, a large amount of fish, and other things in proportion.
Among the interesting reraains of the cloister is the church
of St. Birgitta — built of cut blue stone, and in good order —
begun in 1395 and finished in 1424. It is 220 feet long, 110
wide, and 55 high, and had formerly a square chancel to the
west, and entrances to the east. To this day, in spite of the
raany changes it has undergone, the greater part of the floor
of the church is coraposed of slabs engraved with the coat-
of-arms of the nobles who had their places of burial there.
Here are the remains of Queen Philippa of England and the
beautiful Katarina, the first the queen of Erik XIIL, who
reigned 1396-1439, and the last of Charies VIIL, 1448-1457.
The inscription on Queen Philippa's gravestone is the folloAv-
ing in Latin : " Here rests her Highness Queen Philippa, wife
of Erik, formerly King of Sweden, Gotaland, Denmark, and
Norway, and Duke of Pomerania — daughter of Henry IV.,
King of England, France, and Ireland — who died on the 5th
of January, 1430."
Formerly St, Birgitta and her daughter, St. Katarina, were
z 2

340 THE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN.
laid in a heavy silver shrine, but King John HI. melted it for
coining money; now the.se are preserved in a casket covered
with red velvet. Great men of their day, Gustaf Olofson
Stenbock, Jiisse Eriksson, and others are here buried. Prince
Magnus, the insane son of Gustaf Wasa, lies under a tine
monument, supported by fourteen Corinthian pillars.

.-.^-^ -'s-^igtUit^Jur. "¦

s::s5 Vi..^-i .

VADSTENA GllintCH.

Among the notable persons here entombed is Bo Jonsson
Grip, Avho died in 1386, and left the greate.=;t fortune CA-er
owned by any man in SAveden. At bis death he possessed
Nykopings Castle with South-eastern Sodermanland ; Stock
holm Castle, and South-eastern Upland; a part of Vestman
land, Avith the mining districts and Dalarne; Kalmar Castle,
and the greater part of the present Kalmar liin ; Aby. Yiborg,
Raseborg, Tavastehns, and Korsholms castles, Avitb tbe Avhole
of Finland ; Oresten and Opensten castles — also Mark and
Kind districts of Vestei-gotland ; Forsholms Castle, and part
of tbe sontliern shore of the Wennern. lie further owned the
Avhole of Norrland (in Avhicli at that time Avas not reckoned
Gestrickland), Ringstadholm, and other castles, Avitli a large
part of (")stcrgritlatul ; Stilkcholm Castle, Avitb Tjust district in

-1 VERY RICH MAN.

311

Sraaiand ; Ydre and Kind districts in Ostergotland ; and Ruui-
laborg Castle, with Northeim SraHland and Jonkoping. Besides
these were large estates all over the kingdom, partly iulieritcd,

\.

INTEIlIOtl <-)F VADSTENA CliUKOll.

partly acquired ; and one may imagine the extent of his wealth
in personal property Avhen told that he Avilled aAvay 57,500
ounces of silver, which at that time Av.as a fabulous fortune;

342

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

and also an immense amount of ready money. He also
owned Gripsholm, which got its name from him. No private
man ever had so rauch land in Europe. There was not
rauch of the country left for the king, and of this great slices
Avere in the hands of other raen. The reputation of Bo Jons
son reached even outside of Sweden. Once he declared Avar
on the powerful Hanseatic town of Dantzic, and Lubeck's
burghers advised its council to make peace with him.

KEFEOTOEY IN VADSTENA CLOIBTER.

In 1383 this extraordinary raan made his Avill, wherein he left
all his fiefs and a part of his estates in trust to ten persons, Avho
should manage all this until the debts Avhicli he had incurred
on behalf of the kingdom Avere paid. AYitli these fiefs bis law
ful heii's should have nothing to do. He Avas so anxious that
this provision should be enforced, that he selected alternates,
AvIlo should serve in case any of the original trustees died.
Though he had inherited great Avealth, he during his life
used all sorts of means for increasing the sarae. When his
first Avife, Margai-etha Poi'sc, died pregnant, he caused her to

BO JONSSON.

343

be opened in the presence of Avitnesses to show that ber child
Avas still alive; and he, according to Swedish law, inherited her
property through her child, wiiich had, however, never been
born. The clergy considered this act a great sin, and Bishop
Nils, of Linkoping, sharply took him to task therefor. To
appease him. Bo Jonsson gave to Vadstena cloister twelve
farms and two hundred and fifty marks in money.

CRUCIFIX, OAEVED IN WOOD, IN VADSTENA OHUEOJl,

Bo Jonsson had raised and educated a poor young noble
man, Karl Niklasson, and also had hira knighted on account
of his proAvess, and manly and noble qualities. He also gave
hira the estate of Farla, and many others in Ostergotland and

344 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
other provinces. This youth was betrothed to a beautiful
young girl by the narae of Margaretha, her father being a
nobleman by the name of Lambert Eriksson, living on his
estate of Rimstad, on the shores of Lake Roxen.
One day Bo Jonsson happened to see ber, and at once be
carae enamored, and demanded her in marriage frora her par
ents ; they did not dare to refuse the all-powerful Riksdrots
(chancellor of the realm), who sent the lover away on busi
ness, and married the girl during his absence. When the
young knight returned and found he had been robbed of his
most precious treasure by his benefactor, his wrath knew no
bounds, and he went up to Bo Jonsson's residence in Stock
holm, and, appearing before his former betrothed, accused her
of having betrayed him. She, hoAvever, pleaded Avith him most
earnestly, and showed him that she could have acted in no oth
er way, and at the same time exacted of hira a promise that
he never Avould draw sword against Bo Jonsson. After hav
ing done this she gave him her hand, and he kneeled, cover
ing it with most fervent kisses. At this moment Bo Jonsson
entered, and seeing the young knight in such a position, ac
cused him of trying to seduce his wife, and drew his sAvord,
calling upon Karl to defend himself. But the latter, true to
his promise, refused to draAV against his former protector, and
retired through the door into the hall-way and thence into
the street, followed by the enraged chancellor. Thinking he
would be safe in the church, he ran into the cloister of the
Gray friars — the present Riddarbolms church — closelv pursued
by Bo Jonsson, who, beside hiraself Avith rage, forgot the re
spect due to the sanctity of the place. At the high altar he
came up to Karl, and gave tbe latter thrust after thrust, until
he fell a corpse on tbe fioor beside the sanctuary. This sacri
legious murder caused the deepest indignation ; and in order
to gain the pardon of the Clinrch, Bo Jonsson had to give
1200 marks to Upsala Cathedral, 600 to Linkopino-, 500 to
Strengnas, 500 to Vesteras, and 600 to Abo ; he gave, also,
five marks to the church in every parish AA'here he had estates,
besides five raarks to the parish priest. During his time he
used to raoct the people on the Bosliitten (Boplain), Aviieii ho

THE BO STONE.

345

talked to the multitude from the so-called Bostone, Avhich still
exists. Then,Avlien the mighty nobles were nearly exclusive
ly the governing poAver, the masses, Avho raost felt the conse
quences of every raeasure, had the greatest need of know
ing Avhat in the future they must hope or fear. Except on
such occasions, the common people had little or no chance of
learning Avliat was taking place on the heights of the social
structure. The narae of Bo Jonsson Avas a poAver not only
among the nobles, but still raore so araong the people. The
knoAvledge that not only the highest authorities, but the
king himself, Avere forced to obey his will, drew the masses
towards him. Around those who dared to speak out their
raeaning, the oppressed people
of mediseval times ahvays ral
lied. Bo Jonsson kept up
the Swedish custora of some
times calling out the populace
for a consultation about meas
ures of importance — ^to talk
Avith them and let them give
their opinion. Although lie
Avell knew Iioav to lead their
judgraents and resolutions to
his own ends, he made them
believe that they participated
therein, and were valued accordingly. Probably no Swede
either before or since has wielded a greater power than he
did ; and, although about five hundred years have disappeared
since he lived, his narae is still upon the lips of the people.
Siiby, on the St§,ngS,n River, Avas one of his favorite castles.
The island upon Avhich it Avas built is still called Bosholmen.
Forraerly, from the northern side of this place, a road led to
a meadow a short distance from the river, and there stands to
this day a high stone, somewhat resembling a chair, called Bo's
stone, now surrounded by three grand old oaks. Here Bo
Jonsson held his meetings Avith the people, and addi'essed
them. It is worthy of note that, although the meadow is
now cultivated, and a ditch ought to pass Avhere the above

BO JONSSON 8 00AT-0F-AE.M8.

346

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

BLAB OVEE THE GRAVE OF BO JONSSON AND HIS BON.

Bo Jonsson's road runs, the people on the estate could not
be persuaded to open the former — such is the reverence for
the memory of the great Bo. He OAvned, among others, the
castle and estate of Gripsholm, built aud named by him;

THE CASTLE OF VADSTENA. 347
there he resided in royal splendor, holding diets and meet
ings of nobles. In Ostergotland he had the castles of Bro-
kind, Saby, and Vesterby, besides many raore of greater or
less importance. On the slab under Avhich he Avas buried in
the church the inscription, in Latin, reads as foUoAvs:
HERE LIB
THE SWEDISH CHANCELLOR, BO JONSSON,
IX SAFETA' BURIED,
AND HIS SON, SIR CANUTE.
ARMAGARD,THY AVIFE, FOLLOWS THEE, CANUTE.
Here is also the tomb of his son-in-law and daughter. Sir Algot
Magnusson and Margareta, with the following inscription, with
the date of the latter incomplete :
UNDER THIS STONE ARE HIDDEN THE BODIES OP THE NOBLE PERSONS,
SIK ALGOT MAGNUSSON,
AND HIS BELOVED WIFE,
LADY MARGARETA BOSDOTTER,
WHO DIED IN 1414, AT EASTER, WHILE HE DIED IN 14—.
The castle of Vadstena consists of an oblong square raain
building, enclosed in a rectangular court, and flanked by four
round towers. The raiddle part rises like a high toAver, sur
mounted by a lofty spire. The whole is surrounded by the
Wettern, and the moats which are filled by its Avater. The
neighborhood has been ranch changed, but the old castle has
been kept in repair, and stands pretty much the same as dur
ing the days of Gustaf Wasa I. It was begun in 1545, and
finished in 1552. In it the old king celebrated his third Aved-
din'g, with Catharina Stenbock.
Here also Prince Magnus, in an attack of insanity, threw
himself from one of the palace windows into the Wettern,
terapted by the siren -song of the water -nyraph; and here,
after a separation of sixteen years, Charles XIL again met his
sister, Ulrika Eleonora. Little remains to tell of the great
splendor of this fine castle ; the Knights' Hall must have been
in its day a magnificent room. After the death of Gustaf
Wasa, Vadstena came into the possession of his son Magnus.

348

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

About ten miles from Vadstena is Oinberg bill, 574 feet
above Lake Wettern, and 871 above the ocean. On the sloping

VADSTENA CASTLE— LAND SIDE.

side grows a luxuriant forest, through which strearas of lim
pid water find their Avay to the lake. At tlie foot of Omberir,

V.IDSTE.VA O.iSTLE— L V.K1: SIDE.

about seventeen miles from A'adstena. is Alvastra, the finest
ruin of Su-edeii. Tl\e cloister, the oldest and one of tlie larirest

THE CLOISTER OF ALVASTRA.

349

and raost renowned, Avas built in the middle of the twelfth
century, probably by Alfhild, queen of King Sverker (there
fore Alfhilstad, Alvastra) ; it was in the possession of Bernar-
dine monks, and finally Avas given up to nuns. Here rest
the remains of the kings Sverker I., Karl VIL, Sverker IL,
and Johan L, all of the
Sverker Dynasty ; and also
Birger Brosa,Ulf Gudmar-
son, the husband of St. Bir
gitta, Avitli others. At tbe
Reformation the cloister
eaine into the possession
of tbe CroAvn, and part of
the buildings unfortunate
ly have been taken down
and used in the construc
tion of tbe castles of Vad
stena and Visingsborg.
One of the oldest churches
standing is Heda Church,
not far from the rocky side
of the Omberg towards the
Wettern Lake, which is called the red gable, and from Avhich
the stone for the church is said to have been taken.
At the southern end of the lake is the city of Jonkoping,
with a population of 15,000, and a coraraodious harbor, protect
ed by a regular breakAvater. Its coraraunications with different
parts of the country are excellent, the railroads of the State
here forming a net-work whose terminal points are Malmo,
Goteborg, Christiania, and Stockholm, . and through branch
roads to several of the coast towns of Southern Sweden.
Water communication with Stockholm is effected by three
or four steamers, which go and return every week ; with
Goteborg by three others, and with the ports on the Wettern
by a sraaller one.
The industrial establishments are nuraerous, erabracing pa
per and linen mills, steam dyeing works, manufactories of snuff,
cigars, Avail - papers, and chemicals, machine shop, iron-foun-

KALLSTAD OIIUEOII, AIJOUT SIX .MILKS SOUTH OF
VADSTENA.

350 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
dery, and match factory. The situation of the city is very
pretty, being chiefly between the Wettern and two lakes, a
canal comraunicating with one of them. At a distance of about
ten miles is Taberg, 1129 feet above the sea, an iron -moun
tain which, Avith a few others found in Lapland, are- the only
ones in Europe where the ore is broken or blasted above
ground. A few miles east of the city lies the factory of
Husqvarna, where rifles and sewing-machines are made; its
employes nuraber about one thousand.
To the south, a short distance from the shore of the Wettern,
and between Alvastra and the foot of a raountain range, era-
bosomed in luxurious f ruit - groA^es, is the toAvu of Grenna,
with about 1500 inhabitants, who export grain and potatoes.
It was built in 1652, by Count Pehr Brahe the younger, and is
especially noted for its beautiful site. Oue raile from Grenna
is Visingso, Wettern's largest island, about ten miles long and
two wide, the property of the State, and rich in relics be
longing to the iron age. On the south side are the ruins of
Nasbo, an ancient castle, still seen under the water. Here
have been found graves in great numbers from different
periods, Avhence it has been concluded that the island was
employed as a burial-ground by the tribes around it; before
the founding of Stockholm Visingso was often used as a resi
dence for the kings. Here lived and died Karl VIL, who
reigned 1160-1168, Erik X.,.Johan I., and Magnus LadulSs.
In 1561 the island came into the possession of the Brahe
faraily, who built the splendid fortified castle of Visingborg,
corapleted in 1657. At the " reduction " it became the proper
ty of the Crown. The structure was burned in 1718, and noth
ing of its former splendor remains but ruins. The church, of
cut stone, finished in 1636, has a fine portal, and is ornamented
by nuraerous paintings, among Avhich a couple on copper are
said to have been done by Catharina Stenbock, the third
queen of Gustaf Wasa. Highly gilt silver tablets shine on
the walls, and the church contains other curiosities. In its
chancel are the marble statues of Pehr Brahe the younger
and his countess. Under the church are the burial-vaults of
the Brahe faraily.

LAKE WENERN. 351
Crossing the Wettern from Vadstena to Carlsborg, a forti
fied place intended as a base for the defence of the country,
one enters the Bottensjo, which may be considered a bay, and,
sailing through this, reaches Forsvik, where the canal is again
continued, and, by means of a lock, an ascent of eleven feet
takes place ; after which Lake Viken is entered. This is the
highest water on the route, being 308 feet above the Baltic,
and 160 above the Wenern. The Ymsen is a lake raidway
betAveen the Wenern and Wettern, with pretty (forraerly
oak-clad) shores. On the top of a promontory are still seen
ruins of the eight -feet -thick walls of a castle, the remnants
of a Avell cut through the rock in its central part, and, sur
rounding all this, remains of breastAvorks and ditches. Gold
chains and rings have been found in the ground around these
old ruins, Avliicb date from 1229. From Viken the canal runs
iu a north-Avesterly direction towards the Wenern, and for
several miles is perfectly level, in one place being carried
through the rocks. The stearaer wends its way slowly on ac
count of the locks, and finally reaches Sjotorp on the Wenern,
Avitli its spacious basins, docks for repairs, and workshops.
The Wenern is the largest lake, of Scandinavia, its length
being ninety-three miles, and its widest part forty-seven; its
greatest depth, 359 feet, is found. north of a group. of islands
called Luro ; its level varies sometimes ten feet, according to
the amount of water poured into it in the spring by the rivers.
It has but fcAv large islands, the raost iraportant being Kol
landso, near the southern shore ; Hararaeron and Araon on the
north, and Forso and Bromo on the south. The banks of this
inland fresh-Avater sea are beautiful and picturesque, Avith its
bays, fjords, archipelago of islands, wooded hills, cities, hara
lets, churches, farras, and historical castles. It is supplied
by raore than thirty rivers. Sailing-vessels and steamers
plough its surface in every direction ; more than forty light
houses have been erected, to Avarn the mariner of danger, or
show hira the approaches to his port of destination. Along
its rivers and shores are nuraerous saw-mills and iron-foun
dries. In its north-eastern corner is the town of Kristine-
hamn, with a population of over 4000 ; it is connected by

352 THE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN.
railways and canals with Filipstad, and other mining districts
of the province of Vermland ; it exports bar and cast iron,
and ores, timber, and grain. Every year, in April, is held the
fair, Avhen contracts for iron and tiraber are made between
producers and exporters. It has a match factory, tanneries,
machine shops, etc. Filipstad was founded by Charles IX.,
and has a mining-school supported by the iron-masters' asso
ciation. In its neighborhood, especially north of it, are situated a
large number of iron raines, smelting furnaces and works,
making it one of the raost iraportant places in Sweden. All
these are connected with the new railroad, either by train-ways
or lake transportation, thus getting their products to the sea.
In the southern part of Vermland, on the Skagen, about
sixteen miles from Kristinebamn, stands the church of Rida,
one of the oldest wooden ones of Scandinavia, built in the be
ginning of the fourteenth century. The outside of the edifice
presents no special features, but the interior is very interest
ing. Odd paintings illustrate the Scriptures; those of the
chancel dating frora 1323, and of the nave from 1495. There
is one porch, which in olden times was used as a depository for
Aveapons during the services ; for at that period men came
armed, as if ready for a fray.
West of Kristinebamn is the town of Karlstad, on the
shores of the lake and of the Klar River, with a population
of 7000. In 1865 a fire laid almost the whole city in ashes; it
is now entirely rebuilt, and looks handsomer than before, with
wide streets, boulevards planted Avith several rows of trees,
large squares, stately buildings, and fine stores. Quite a num
ber of manufactories have a permanent exhibition of the prod
ucts of the province, near the city park. Along the river,
north of the city, are a number of iron-founderies, saAv-mills,
and other factories, among Avhich the Uddeholms works are the
most important. These consist of seven iron-Avorks and four
smelting-f urnaces, tbe estate embracing an area of nearly half
a million acres, and employing more than 10,000 Avorkraen.
The forests are exceedingly avcII managed, so that their new
growth is properly cared for.

WENERN WATER-WAYS. 353
The next valley Avest of the Klar River is Fryksdal, Avitli
Lake Fryken, skirted on both sides by ranges of hills. This,
as well as that of the Klar River, constitutes one of the large
arteries in which the industrial life of tbe province of Verm
land pulsates ; but the former is in a higher degree than the lat
ter distinguished for its beauty. Steamers ascend the By River

INTEEIOE OF EADA CHUEOH, VEEMLAMD.
and the Seffle Canal, and far into the interior of West Verm
land. There is another and most charming route by the Dais-
land Canal, and a series of lakes which bring one to the fron
tier of Norway. The scenery is at times extremely beautiful,
and the canal in many places displays great engineering skill,
especially near H§,fverud. Hemmed in on either side by per
pendicular rocks, there is a cataract, beyond which the vessels
must be carried. To build this canal and locks on the left
side was always considered impossible, as there was no safe
VOL. II. 2 A

354 THE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN,
bottom; to lay thera on the right was also exceedingly dif
ficult, the rocks above the cataracts being of such a nature
that a cutting could not be raade through them without enor
mous expense. The engineer overcame these obstacles by plac
ing the lower part of the canal and the locks on the right
side, but carrying the upper part first over the cataract in a
colossal hanging aqueduct of iron, 122 feet long and 16^ feet
wide ; and then, in an obtuse angle, following the left bank of
the stream, against which one wall was built, while the other
was blasted out of the rock. When the vessels are in the
aqueduct, they seem, as it were, to swing in the air.
Araong the most lovely spots on the lake are the hills of
Kinnekulle, rising several hundred feet, from which a mag
nificent view of the Kinne Bay and the surrounding country
can be had. At tbe base is Hellekis — a large estate, with a
fine mansion. In the southern part of the bay is the town
of Lidkoping, Avhere the Lidan River 'empties itself into the
lake : it has a population of over 4000.
A few railes south of the entrance to tbe canal is the cha
teau of Borstorp, built by Baron Falkenberg : iron letters
show the name of the builder, and the date of its construc
tion, 1646. In one room hangs a reraarkable little painting,
representing the daughter of King Magnus Ladul§.s, named
Elna. In the border of this picture, Avhich is an original
portrait, is written : " Elna des Koniges Magni Ladlos Toch-
ter zu Schweden, ihr herr Vater hat sie in St. Clara gegeben.
Anno 1288 da sie nicht ihr 7te Jabre erreichtet ist ge-Contre
— fait. Anno 1299." A royal shield with three crowns rests
by the foot of the princess, Avho is ornamented with two chains,
which she got frora her father, and which she always carried
while a nun in St. Clara convent. From her these chains de
scended, and were worn by the abbesses in the convent, and
when this was abolished by Gustavus I., they reraained in the
possession of the last abbess, Anna Reinholdsdotter Leuhu-
sen, in whose family the estate fell. One of the chains is cora
posed of 98 rings of pure gold, and weighs about 400 penny
weights ; the other is a rosary, consisting of 101 little balls
of silver, seven of gold, all of filigree AA'ork, 45 still smaller

Iiliifai!!l1!l!ll!llll!!l!5llil|j||i|jli

AN ANCIENT JEWEL.

355
^ 1

BOESTOEP, IN TESTEEGOTLAND.

golden balls, and an ornament of the same Avitli a few sraall
iraages of apostles — altogether weighing about three ounces.
The ornament is corapleted by two very finely-worked ear-
pendants of gold ; in eacb of which there is a pair of scissors,
and a knife and fork, all of steel. They have been in the
Leuhusen family three hundred years, and are carefully kept
in a large case, and are, with the very rich library, entailed
to the eldest son. If to these three centuries, during which
these valuables belonged to the pious abbesses of St. Clara
convent, are added those in which they have been in posses
sion of the Leuhusen faraily, we have an aggregate of six
hundred years, during which" they have descended regularly
from hand to hand. „ „
Z A Z

356

THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.

There is no country in Europe where so many old stone
churches of the eleventh, twelfth, and thirteenth centuries
are found as in Sweden ; they are abundant from the cen
tral part to its southern extremity. Their spires and towers,
rounded and pointed arches, present raost graceful propor
tions ; many are perfect specimens of the architecture of those
periods, with doors of exquisite design. A few are peculiar,
and no doubt were parts of heathen temples, to which addi
tions have been made. These often appear when least ex
pected, as they are embosomed in groves. In them are found

RELIO 8UEINE OF WOOD, OOVEEED WITH EMBOSSED AND GILDED OOPPEE, FEOM THE END OF
THE TWELFTH OENTUEV— EEIKSBEEQA OHUEOH.
many mementos of those days, in the shape of crude paintings
illustrating the Scriptures, or Avooden carvings on the same
subject ; baptismal fonts of stone, Avith odd sculptured fig
ures or designs, surrounded by Latin or Runic inscriptions;

RELICS FOUND IN CHURCHES,

357

embroideries of reraarkable pattern, shrines chased and cov
ered with enaraelled copper, or of solid silver, wood-carvings,
old altars, and other relics too numerous to raention, many
of which are now kept in the museum of the State. Here

^ pi^

EBPEEBENTATION OF THE OEUOIFIXION ON A CABINET, FEOM OSTBEAKEE OHUEOH, UPLAND.
and there one sees a skampallen (shame stool) ; persons con
victed of crime or misdemeanor, against either Church or
State, were formerly conderaned to stand upon it in front of

358 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
the high altar, so that the delinquent might be seen by the
whole congregation. The reason why these structures have
remained untouched is that, even during their intestine wars,
the churches and tombs of former enemies were always re
spected ; and when the Reformation took place there were
few Vandals willing to burn and destroy them. The accom
panying illustrations are representations of sorae of these rel
ics, and a volume might be filled Avith them :
The relic shrine is frora Eriksberga church, in Vester
gotland, near Falkoping ; the inscription, two lines on all
four sides, enumerates the relics kept therein : of St. An
drew, Holy Cross, St. Pancratius, blood of St. Vincent, etc.

BAPTIBUAL FONT OF STONE FEOM HOEUM OHUEOH.
The baptismal font is frora Norum church, in Bohuslan,
now in the historical museura of the State. The Runic in
scription reads : Sviin Karthe (Swain made the font) ; the
signification of the last five characters is not known. Below
the inscription is seen a raan surrounded by four snakes, Avho
seems to rest with his feet on a harp, or something similar.
Probably this is meant to represent Gunnar in the snake-pit, a
scene frora the Eddaic sagas of the Volsungar and Gjukungai;.
The wooden door with iron raountings is in the church of Ver-
sSs, in Vestergotland. The inscription in Runic characters on
a strip of iron reads : Asmunter garthi dyr (Asmund made the
door). The same name also occurs on simikir doors in the

THE OLDEST CHURCH OF SWEDEN.

359

churches of Visingso, on the island of that narae in the Wet
tern Lake, and Viifversunda in Ostergotland, on the shore of
the Wettern, about eight railes south of Vadstena.
Near the southern border of the bay of Kinne is LIus-
aby church, one of the raost historical and the oldest of SAve
den, situated at the foot of the hills, on the southerly side,
about twenty-five miles from the toAvn of Mariestad. The
ancient graves, the stones with Runic inscriptions, and other
relics bear testimony to the antiquity of the place, which dates
from the daAvn of Christian
ity upon the land. It was
here that Olaf Skotkonuug,
born about 965, and who died
in 1024 (the first Christian
King of Sweden), was bap
tized by Sigfrid, sent by King
Ethelred about the year 1001.
The castles of the kings in
olden times were called hus
(house), and after his conver
sion Olaf Skotkonuug estab
lished his court in Husaby,
which was long before his
time a king's farra ; for he
would not live araong his
subjects in the province of
Upland, who clung with great
tenacity to the religion of
their forefathers. A few
years later he gave this farm
as a residence to the first
Bishop of Vestergotland, and
it became chiefiy the abode
of his successors, while the
cathedral of Skara was being erected on the site of a great
heathen teraple.
From the king's house rose the Husaby church, which
still possesses the original three towers belonging to the old

WOODEN DOOE OF VEE8A8 OHUEOH.

360

THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.

Kungshus. This edifice is about thirty-two feet wide, and, with
the chancel, 105 feet long, and was the cathedral of the bishops
for nearly one hundred and forty years, and until the Cathedral
of Skara was inaugurated. The towers are three, one beside

HUBABY OHUEOH.

the other, on the west end of the church, and are seen Avitli
their spiral stairways, frora which there are doors opening to
four stories; the two side toAvers were the entrances to the
castle, of which the raiddle tower then was a part. The old
stone sculptured baptisraal font, the stakes to Avhicli torches
were fastened at bridal-parties, the altars, tho bishop's chair,
and other relies of the Catholic Chureh remain. There are

TOMB OF OLAF SKOTKONUNG AND QUEEN ASTRID. 361
queer epitaphs on the old slabs over the torabs inside and
outside the edifice. Among the most remarkable tombs are

TOMB OF OLAF SKOTKONUNG.

those of King Olaf Skotkonuug, and of his queen Astrid, just
outside the west end, and nearly nine centuries old.
One of these is wholly without inscription, while the other
has on the east end two animals, which seem to meet in any
thing but a friendly mood ; on the west end two others, which

IIUBAKV (UIUKCII-VAIin, WITH TCMIir, OV KING OI.AF SKOTKONUNG AND QUKEN ARTRID.

362

THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.

appear to devour a human head ; on one side two persons
holding a chalice and a balance, a bishop with a cross and
a fish, another who with one hand receives a key from a
hand extended from above, and iu the other holds a bishop's
staff — two children sitting on the border of a well-house, near
which is an altar on which a chalice is put, and a person with
outstretched arms; on the north side two dragons, against
which two raen arraed with swords and shields are battling —

END VIEW OF TUE TO.MB OF KING OLAF SKOTKONUNG.
one Avith a short dress seeming to be a layman, Avhose foot a
dragon has taken hold of, while the other, with a long wide
robe (an ecclesiastic), thrusts his SAVord into the mouth of the
monster. These are symbols of the LaAv, the Gospel, the Bap
tism, the Lord's Supper, and tbe battle betAA^een Christendom
and Heathendom. Tradition indicates that Olaf Skotkonuno-
Avas baptized in St. Sigfrid's spring, Avhich is situated east of
the church ; and several places in the vicinity bear the name
of Sio'frid.

INVASION OF ENGLAND BY SVEN TVESKAGG, 363
Olaf Avas called lap-king, because he was chosen a king while
a child in his raother's lap. He, with King Sven Tveskagg of
Denraark, defeated Olaf Tryggvason of Norway at the famous
naval battle of Svolder,
After this battle Sven Tveskagg's hands were free to renew
his expedition to England, where he had been twice before.
An occasion soon arose, giving him a pretext for going. On
the 13th of November, 1002, the English had agreed to the
general destruction of all the Northmen then living in the
country ; this resolve they put into execution, killing the great
er portion of them; even Gunhild, the sister of Sven, who
was married to the English earl Paling, was also murdered.
Angered in a high degree by this treachery, Sven equipped a
large army and landed on the English coast, continuing his rav
ages until 1007, when the weak King Ethelred paid 36,000
pounds to obtain peace from the invaders; but the desired
peace he did not gain, for other chiefs continued to plunder
the country. Sven died the 2d of February, 1014, and Ethel
red thought it a good chance to recover his entire kingdom ;
and after having bought the assistance of the Danish chief,
Thorkil the High, for 21,000 pounds, he managed to expel
the young Canute, the son of Sven. But he did not long
enjoy this state of peace, for, in the latter part of 1015,
Canute returned AA'ith a large army and a splendid fleet,
and soon drove Ethelred away ; and, finally, after raany hard-
fought battles, Canute was, at the end of the year 1017, in
sole possession of the kingdora, which he kept till his death,
November 12th, 1042. He reigned over England, Denmark,
Norway, and the southern part of Sweden.
One of the most interesting places between the Wettern
and the Wenern is the town of Skara, an ancient trading
and offering centre on the Vestgota plain. This place was,
before Christianity, the centre of heathendom in Gotaland,
just as Upsala was in Svealand. The cathedral, next to that
of Husaby the oldest in Sweden, was consecrated iu 1151 by
Bishop Odgrim ; of its raany towers only two are left. The
town has a fine elementary school-building, and a new library
Avith 20,000 volumes. There is also a seminary for female

364 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
teachers of the f olkskolor, and a veterinary college ; it has
about 3000 inhabitants. Between Skara and Falkoping is Gud-
hem, during the heathen age a great sacrificing place, later a
cloister for nuns, of which, however, now only a few ruins are
left. About six railes east of Skara stretches Axevalla heath,
now used as a field of manoeuvring or drill for the military ;
but in olden times a great burial-place, to which numerous
passage -graves and other reminiscences bear witness. Not
quite three miles east of Axevalla, near the base of Billingen,
is the old cloister-church of Varnhem, originally built in 1150
by King Sverker the elder; the structure, in which several
kings rest, was burned by the Danes in 1566, but was restored
to its original state by Count Magnus Gabriel de la Gardie,
1668-1671. It is in shape a Gothic-cross with three towers,
and is one of the handsomest in Sweden, The old royal tombs
were restored by the above-mentioned art-loving magnate, who
in the church built a magnificent raausoleura for his family.
Near Kinnekulle is the historic island of Kollandso, which
forms part of the bay, and is almost contiguous to the shore,
upon which stands the interesting castle of Lecko, com
menced in 1298 by Bishop Brynolf of Skara. The structure
is on a high cliff ou the north-eastern corner of the island.
It was occupied by the Catholic bishops of Skara, and Bry
nolf Gerlachsson at the end of the fifteenth century extended
and strongly fortified it. From one of these bishops, Didrick
Slaghok, it was captured by Gustaf Wasa I. ; afterwards, iu
1527, it was confiscated by the Crown from Bishop Magnus
Sommar, and was, in 1616, with three districts, made a county
for Jakob Pontusson de la Gardie. Not only the latter, but
also his son, Magnus Gabriel de la Gardie, greatly iraproved the
castle, which had been burned by the Danes in 1666 ; scarcely
raore than the foundation and a wall of the original structure
were reraaining ; finally it had as many as seven toAvers : it
was seized for the Crown by Charles XI. Although with all
its irregular additions presenting a certain disorder, it is still
a stately square building with four towers, and surrounded by
a garden, and a raoat blasted out of the rock separates it from
the island.

THE IROLLHAIIAN FALLS, 365
From Lecko the channel runs through the rocky passage
north of Kollandso, and then out into the open Wenern, or
rather that part of it called Dalbo Lake, and thence in a south
westerly direction. To the right are seen the shores of Dais-
land, and to the left Hinna light -house. The Wenern now
gets more and more narrow towards the end. Soon comes in
sight the hill Halleberg (290 feet above the lake), and beyond
the Huuneberg, both with perpendicular walls, after which is
shortly reached the port of Wenersborg.
From Wenersborg the journey Avestward continues to be
very interesting. First the vessel enters Lake Vassbotten, and
from this through a canal into the Gota River, thus avoiding
the cascade of Ronnura, 19 feet in height. At last the fa
raous Trollhattan (witches' caps) falls are reached ; these are
111 feet in height, but are divided into four large cascades
and rapids called GuUo, Toppo, Stampestroms, and Helvetes,
extending altogether nearly a raile. First coraes the Gullo,
with a height of 26 feet ; then the Toppo, where the river,
which here attains a considerable width, throws itself down 44
feet on both sides of the islet of Toppo, which can be reached
by a frail bridge, and frora which a very good view of the
scene can be had. Here is also situated the so-called " King's
Grotto," an excavation in the rock, where raany royal person
ages — Gustaf IIL, and Gustaf Adolf, Karl Johan, Desideria,
Oscar, and Josefina — have had their naraes cut. Next after the
Toppo fall coraes that ofthe Stampestrom, nine feet high, and
immediately east thereof the water is seen to rush through
the Polhems lock, 64 feet deep, with the assistance of which
it was the intention to pass both the Toppo and Stampestrom ;
it therefore had to be of colossal dimensions, with floodgates
of not less than 53 feet in height. Below Stampestrom the
river forms a still-water, called HSjumsvarp; but it soon again
gets narrower ; and then follow each other with terriflc speed
the three Helvetes falls (falls of hell), together, however, only
28 feet in height. Finally, 1000 feet farther, the river forras
another cascade near Flottbergsstroramen four feet high. The
canal, most of which is blasted out of the rock, first runs 6600
feet to Akersjo (129 feet above the sea), and then through

366 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
eleven locks of 24 feet in width and 10 feet in depth, down
to Akersvass, where it ends. These are the new locks, the
old ones, eight in number, which are still used for smaller ves
sels, lying close by the new ; they were opened in 1800. The
journey is then continued on the quiet river, which here is
only 19 feet above the sea, past Skarsbo down to Aker-
strora, where a fall of three and a half feet necessitates an
other lock ; then past Torpa, remarkable for a salt spring —
one of the very few in Sweden — until the village of Little
Edet is reached. Here the river gets narrower, and forms a
fall of 10 feet, to avoid which, near the fine estate of Strom,
commences the so-called Stroms Canal, 4000 feet long, with
two locks; beyond this the stream runs along smoothly until
it empties into the North Sea. Upon its shores many his
toric events have occurred. Near Foxerna church two bat
tles took place between Inge the elder, King of Sweden, and
Magnus Barefoot of Norway.
Not far frora the fall of Little Edet is the ancient town of
Liodhus or Lodose, once powerful, rich, and strongly fortified,
several times besieged and plundered, but hoav an insignificant
hamlet with a ship-wharf. A little beyond is the village of
Kongelf, with about 900 inhabitants, reraarkable for the his
toric meraories which cluster around it. In Northern his
tory it is often raentioned as the proud and mighty Konghall,
formerly Konungahalla, i. e,, the Kings' Hall, so called on ac
count of the many meetings of kings held there. By reason
of its situation on the former boundary between Norway and
Sweden, it constantly was the scene of remarkable events.
Here was held the fatal meeting between King Olaf Tryggva
son and Sigrid the Proud ; here Inge the elder met the kings
of Denmark and Norway. In the beginning of the twelfth
century Sigurd Jorsalafar intended to make Konghall, which
was then the most powerful town of Norway, and whose fleets
sailed to the Mediterranean, his permanent residence ; but in
1135, flve years after the death of this king, tbe place, although
strong, was completely destroyed by the Vandalians, and never
afterwards regained its former greatness. On an island oppo
site are the remains of the old fort of Bohus.

A HOME OF VIKINGS, 367

CHAPTER XXXI.
The Provinces of Halland and Bohuslan. — Rivers abounding with Salmon. — Halm
stad. — Bohuslan. — An Ancient Viking Place. — Its numerous Relics of the Stone,
Bronze, and Viking Ages. — Extensive Fishing. — Bathing-places on the Coast. —
Saro. — Life at Saro. — Marstrand. — A Fashionable Bathing Resort.
On its west coast Sweden has two provinces, Halland and
Bohuslan ; the latter in olden times belonged to Norway.
They were ceded to Sweden by Denmark in 1658, by the
Peace of Roeskilde, between Charles X. and Frederick III.
Before this the only territory owned by Sweden on the North
Sea was a narrow tract of land belonging to Westergotland,
lying between the two provinces.
The shores of Halland are bathed by the Skagerrack and
Kattegat ; its rivers abound in salmon, said to be superior in
flavor to those of the other rivers of Sweden, especially those
caught on the Nissa. Most of the fish are sraoked by a pe
culiar process, giving to them a flavor much relished by the
Swedes. Numerous fishing-villages are found on the coast.
The seaport of Halmstad, on the shores of tbe Nissa, with
8000 inhabitants, is the capital of the province. Here, in 1062,
a fierce naval fight took place between the Danes, led by Sven,
a grandson of Canute the Great, and the Norwegians under
King Harald H&rdr^de, in which the latter were victorious.
The church was built about 1400, and ruins of old cloisters
and of the fortifications still exist.
Bohuslan was, in ancient times, a province where many a
Viking resided, and well chosen was their abode. The shore
is indented everywhere by deep fjords ; innumerable islands of
all sizes guard the coast, the raost dangerous in Sweden ; these
hide frora view the rivers and bays, where the pirate chiefs
assembled their fleets unknown to their enemies, or from

368

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

which they sailed for distant lands in search of booty. There
is no part of Scandinavia where so raany tombs of the stone,
bronze, and iron ages, with their relics, are to be found, and
weeks and months can be spent in their examination. I have
given an account of some of thera in the chapters on these
graves (Vol. I.). How thoughtfully I have stood before these
tokens of the past, which so well illustrate the littleness of

HIGH OHANOKL. HALMSTAD OHUEOH.

man, and show how quickly he is forgotten when the usages
and raanners of his time have passed away! His remains, once
buried with great honor and deep religious feeling, are dis
turbed and taken away as objects of curiosity for the people
of distant lands, who care nothing for, and know little of, his
deeds. The bare rounded hills contrast singularly in sumraer with

SEA-BATHING PLACES. 369
the blue sky above ; while in winter the waves dashed by the
tempests seem to sing a sad, long wail on the dark gray coast,
which then partakes of the color of the clouds. The islands
act as reefs, guarding the shores and giving safe anchorage.
Some of them are inhabited ; and in protected places there
are green raeadows and fields of grain, with now and then a
windmill, a red-painted farra-house, or a fisherman's cottage,
roofed with red tiles. Fishing is carried on extensively, es
pecially that of herrings and sprats ; lobsters and oysters are
abundant. From Bohuslan northward the bleak shores of Norway
corae into view ; the scenery increases in grandeur and rug
gedness, and presents the character before described. On the
frontier is Fredrikshald, at the siege of whose fortress Charles
XII. met his death. The most iraportant town of the prov
ince, after Goteborg, is .Uddevalla, with 6000 inhabitants, at
the end of the By fjord, which is fifty miles long.
On the coast there are a number of very pleasant bathing
resorts, among which is the village of Grebbestad, in whose
vicinity is the large battle-field of Greby, studded with a great
variety of grave-stones, raised, according to the saga, over the
remains of Scots who, after a plundering expedition to the
Bullar lakes, Avere here overtaken by their pursuers and slain,
Strorastad is the raost northerly town on the Swedish coast,
with a population of about 2000, Lysekil is another fishing
and bathing village, Gustafsberg is a charming spot.
The two most fashionable resorts of Sweden are Saro and
Marstrand. On a warm July day I sailed frora the river Gota
towards Sard, the islands rapidly increasing in number south
ward ; seals were basking in the sun upon the rocks, and wild
ducks swimming quietly, surrounded by their broods ; gulls
were fiying above our heads or resting upon the water, while
here and there on sorae deserted islands were sheep left to
browse for the summer. In August and Septeraber there is
capital sport here in seal-hunting.
A whistle from the steamer announced to the inhabitants
its approach, though there was nothing but rocks in sight.
Trees soon after made their appearance, and in a short time
VOL. II. 2 B

370 THE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN.
we came to the Aviiarf of Saro. A few ladies, dressed in the
height of suraraer fashion, with their children queeriy accou
tred in sea-side costuraes, were waiting to meet their husbands
or friends. Saro is an island connected with the main-land by
a causeway, and is a. peculiar sea-bathing place, no house over
looking the water. Less than a hundred yards from the shore
groves of large oak-trees, often from ten to twelve feet in
circumference, with long spreading branches, and other trees,
formed a park, in which were scattered charming villas of
different sizes, some containing only two rooras, surrounded
by gardens. Paths led in different directions, every rock and
bit of ground being used to advantage. Life was very quiet,
there being no bustle, and very little driving ; the cottages
were rented for the season, and chiefiy occupied by the in
habitants of Goteborg. In Sweden ladies and gentleraen do
not bathe in corapany, and here do not get sight of each
other, the respective places being separated by a proraontory.
The beach for raen is in the hollow of a rocky cove, where
the sea is so clear that one can see the bottom at a great
depth. The people wear no bathing-costume. The water Avas
73° Fahrenheit, and I found it too warra to be refreshing.
Marstrand is on an island of the Kattegat, and at the en
trance of the By fjord. It looms up in the distance, Avith its
castles of Gustafsborg, Fredriksborg, and Carlsten, which were
considered formidable before the invention of raodern artil
lery. The toAvn was founded in 1220 by the Norwegian king,
Hakon Llakonson; during the sixteenth century it became one
of the most fionrishing places of the north on account of its
herring fisheries, but now depends for its support on the sum
mer visitors. About 2000 persons come to spend the summer
here, ladies being in greater number than gentleraen. I no
ticed that the former were attired more fashionably than at
any of the other watering-places ; the dresses, in warm weath
er, were chiefiy of white or light-colored muslin, Avitli long
and broad silk scarfs around their Avaists. Gr,acefnl hats part
ly hid their blue eyes and smiling faces; no one Avore a silk
robe, for the sea-shore was not the place, according to SAvedish
notions, to Avcar costly fabrics, the salt air ruining thera. The

LIFE AT THE SEA-SIDE. 371
gentlemen Avere clad in sumraer suits, and everybody had an
appearance of refineraent.
The bathing season lasts from the 1st of June to the end of
August. There were restaurants and hotels, and houses were
rented for the season. There was also a small ball and concert
room, in which was dancing tAvice a week, on Wednesday and
Sunday evenings, besides concerts and other entertainments
given by actors or artists. Almost all the visitors rented
rooms and took their raeals at the restaurants, of Avhich there
were two. There was no driving, and the people araused them
selves by walking, boating, and fishing, Avhile flirtations by the
seaside took place here as Avell as elsewhere.
The bathing-place was peculiar, being enclosed with a fence
in a sandy spot where the sea was as quiet as a pond, and
where tbe bathers could not be seen frora the outside. There
were several rooms for the use of gentlemen, but no bathing
costumes were worn. The ladies had their own place also, and
as I saw no wet garments drying, I suppose they bathe in the
same fashion as the sterner sex. The water was 71J°, and
consequently a little cooler than at Saro. Among the bathers
were a few Russians, Norwegians, Danes, and Finlanders.
The arrival of the steamer was always an event, and all
Marstrand was out. The Swedish ladies looked very pretty,
and many of the men were really handsome ; I was especially
attracted by their pleasant raanners.
There is a church in the village, and a shaded promenade of
flue trees. Among the curiosities are so-called "giant holes,"
which were, no doubt, made by water. I fared well, for the
friends who had received rae so kindly on ray arrival in Swe
den had made known to their wives my intended visit, and
their reception was most affable. With great trouble they had
been able to secure a roora for me at the hotel ; for in the
height of the season, unless one has done this in advance, the
chances are that he will spend the flrst night walking through
the streets or contemplating the sea.

2 B 2

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER XXXIL
The Province of Ostergbtland.— Risinge Church.— An Historical Battle-field.— The
City of Norrkoping.— The largest Manufacturing Town in Sweden.— How the
Artisans live.— Comfortable Dwellings.— The Iron-works of Finspong.— Laws
concerning the Employment of the Young.— Intelligent Citizens.— Fine Schools.
—Interesting Ceremony at the closing of Schools.— A Teachers' Sociable.
South of Sodermanland we enter Ostergotland, one of the
most fertile provinces of Sweden, whose territory lies chiefly
between Lake Wettern and the Baltic. From the north the
traveller on his Avay to Norrkoping passes near the ancient
Risinge church, remarkable for its wood-carving and painted
ceilings of mediseval times. As he nears the coast, and ap
proaches the Braviken fjord, he comes to BrS,valla heath, the
seene in pagan history of the bloody battle which took place,
about the year 740, between Harald Hildetand and Sigurd
Ring. The city of Norrkoping, with a population of 27,000, near
the head of the Br&viken fjord, is built on both sides of the
Motala River, Avhose rapids furnish apparently an alraost un
limited water-power to the nuraerous manufactories located on
its banks. Vessels ascend the stream as far as the lower bridge,
and quays are erected on both sides ; the streets are wide, and
some are far superior to those of Stockholm, large slabs forming
the paveraent of the sidewalks. The toAvn is clean. Most of
the houses are of wood, painted, and not raore than tAvo stories
in height.
This city is the principal manufacturing centre on the pen
insula of Scandinavia. There are paper-mills, lithographic es
tablishments, machine shops, tobacco, soap, and match facto
ries, tanneries, breweries, sugar refineries, chemical, hosiery,
and starch manufactories : three ship-building docks, one of

MANUFACTURES OF NORRKOPING.

373

which belongs to the Motala iron-works ; extensive woollen
and cotton mills — sorae employing frora five to seven or
eight hundred hands. The raanufacturers have discovered

' ^^.

-^

INTEEiOR OF EiaiNGE OHUEOH.

that the greater the power of production the cheaper is the
cost of the goods ; they have awakened to the iraportance of
adopting tbe latest improvements in machinery devised iu
England, America, France, and Germany. There is a great

374 THE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN.
deal of enterprise, which I have no doubt will in time greatly
enlarge the industries of the place.
The AVorking population is thrifty, and their houses ex
ceedingly clean ; indeed, cleanliness is one of the characteris
tics of the Swedish artisans. They live generally in fiats, of
three to five rooms. In some cases the owners of the mills
have houses which they rent for a stipulated sura to their
hands. I met no beggars ; and altogether Avas delighted Avith
this little Manchester of Sweden. I Avas particularly pleased,
in visiting the manufacturing establishments, to see the order,
and, as a rule, the tidiness of the woraen ; and only in the
lithographic works did I notice a few girls twelve years of age.
Eighteen miles north-west of Norrkoping is the magnificent
estate of Finspong, with iron-works and a cannon-foundry.
It has a very fine castle, erected in 1668, with a chapel, and
it also contains a valuable library, a theatre, and a number of
paintings, among them some by Titian, Guido Reni, Rubens,
and other masters. The parks are beautiful ; the iron-works
and foundry are near the castle. The works, established dur
ing the sixteenth century by the Crown, were, in 1641, sold to
the renowned Louis de Geer; in 1685, during the "reduction"
of Charles XL, the estate Avas again taken by the State, but it
was the year after given back to Louis de Geer the younger
and his heirs or assigns, in consideration of certain yearly con
tributions which are still in force. The property, which by
late purchases has been greatly increased, now covers an area
of over 96,000 acres.
The laAvs concerning the employment of the young are rig
orously enforced ; no child, male or female, being engaged in a
store or factory, or in any handicraft, unless over twelve years
of age. In manufacturing establishments or workshops, no one
under eighteen years is employed betAveen nine o'clock in the
evening and five o'clock iu the raorning. No labor may in
terfere with the school, and the children Avho Avork during the
day must attend the evening classes. But the statutes, how
ever beneficent, compared Avith those of other countries, are
capable of improvement. Children above twelve years have
often to Avork here ten hours a day in close rooras ; this is

THE HIGH-SCHOOL OF NORRKOPING. 375
entirely too long a time, especially as they have besides to
attend the evening school.
The merchants have their country-seats in the suburbs.
Sorae of these retreats are beautiful, hidden in glens and
shaded nooks. The villa of the gentleman to whom I am in
debted for much of the pleasure I enjoyed in Norrkoping is
situated in a roraantic spot, in the raidst of fine groves of
birches, firs, and pines, by the side of a narrow dale, with
meadows flanked on either side by a ridge of granite. The
citizens are most intelligent and liberal in their views. The
schools are among the flnest in Sweden, and this is saying
much. There is a technological institute, also an excellent
high-school standing in the midst of open ground, and com
manding a grand view ; this is an ornament and a credit to
the town, and Avould corapare favorably with any in the Unit
ed States. One of the rooms is 80 feet long, 40 wide, and 26
high; there is plenty of light, and the ventilation is good;
the scholars raeet there daily before the hours of study. A
chapter of the Bible is read at the opening of the school, and
one of the scholars reads the prayer for the day. This room
is also used for musical entertainments, for there is a musical
society belonging to the school. There is a small museum,
furnished with zoological and mineralogical specimens, skele
tons and skulls, shells, eggs, corals, flsh, turtles, etc. ; also a
library stored with scientiflc works and books of reference.
French, English, and German literature are well represented
by the works of Thackeray and Dickens, Napier's "History of
the Peninsular War," Thiers's " Consulate and Empire," the
works of St. Beuve, Lamartine, Balzac, and Jules Janin, and
even those of Voltaire, and the "Biographic Universelle."
The school also possesses a good laboratory for the study
of chemistry ; and one room is used for the instruction of
classes in drawing. The number of teachers and professors
is between twenty and twenty -four. The gymnasium hall
stands at some distance from the raain building.
There are several free-schools, all occupying good buildings,
showing the intelligence of the people and the interest taken
in education. There are also one or two private schools.

376 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
By Herr E  , director of one of the banks, to whora I had
a letter of introduction, I was received raost kindly. " You
have corae just in time to see the closing of the free-school;
would you like to go with rae ?" I assented, and went. The
children had gathered in a large hall, and nurabered about
1600 girls and boys belonging to the working-class. All were
dressed in their best ; and if I had not known I was in Sweden,
I might have thought myself in one of the large school-rooms
in an American city.
I found that Herr E  was a raan of large and extended
views. He thought it might prove advantageous to educate
boys and girls together, and he also believed that there should
be more female teachers ; that women ought to be paid the
sarae price as raen for the sarae work; and that the high-
school should be as free to young women as to their broth
ers. I was presented to the superintendent, who was on the
platform with two clergyraen, members of the Board of Edu
cation, and several ladies ; the children sang Swedish hymns
and songs ; and a few prizes, consisting of books, were given
to the best scholars in the different classes. Then one of the
clergymen made an address, directing his remarks especially
to the girls who had finished the course of study prescribed
by law, and who Avould not return the following term. He
exhorted them to remain pure in thought, to love and fear
God, to cultivate virtue, and to believe in the atonement of the
Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ. The superintendent kindly
invited me to attend a little sociable given by him to all the
teachers. The party was held in one of the Folkskolor, and
there were thirty lady and eight gentlemen teachers present.
Most of the former were young, and all were attractive in ap
pearance, and modest, and some of them quite handsorae. I be
gan to feel after awhile that the place might prove dangerous
to a bachelor like myself ; perhaps I raight not be able to re
sist the srailes of so raany pretty Swedes. Several of the gen
tlemen present were raarried, and their wives Avere teachers
also — a step in the right direction, which might be imitated
elsewhere Avith great advantage to the corafort of the house
hold. I could not at first induce the superintendent to talk

A SUBTERFUGE. 377
in any foreign language ; and, in order to draAv him out, I
said, " I find that the students in Upsala can speak foreign
languages better than in Lund." The Doctor was a graduate
of Lund, and this was a little too much for him. My remark
had the desired effect, and he replied in English that the
graduates of Lund could speak other tongues as well as those
of Upsala, and then laughed heartily over my subterfuge.

378 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER XXXIII.
The Schools of Sweden.— Fine Buildings.— Regulations.— Teaching considered a
High Calling. — How Teachers are regarded. — Respect shown to Governesses. —
Compulsory Education since 1842. — Large Attendance of Children in Schools. —
Number of School-houses. — Studies in the diiferent Grades of Schools. — Gym
nastic and Military Exercises. — Standard of Studies before entering some of the
Schools. — A Small Fee required for some Schools. — How Schools are support
ed. — Ambulatory Schools. — Supervision over Schools. — Professional and Trade
Schools. — Seminaries to prepare Male and Female Teachers. — Industrial Schools.
— Technical Schools. — Institutions for the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind. — The Agri
cultural Colleges. — The Schools of Norway. — Universities of Sweden and Xorway.
— Scientiiio Institution of Learning.
What most forcibly strikes a stranger travelling in Swe
den is to see the fine school-buildings scattered all over the
kingdom, even to the farthest north. Entering a town or vil
lage, almost invariably the structure that is the most conspicu
ous is the school-house, in which the people take great pride.
When he gains a better acquaintance Avith the country, he is
astonished at the number of institutions of learning it con
tains. He wonders that in that far away and barren corner of
Europe the people, though poor, have such a love of knowledge;
that the study of the sciences and foreign languages is very
common, and that the inhabitants strive to root out ignorance
from their land. Visiting the schools, he is surprised to see
how well raanaged they are, and that a gymnastic hall, fully
equipped, is attached to each one, shoAving that the body is
as well taken care of as tbe mind. He finds that, among the
regulations, the younger children have to go out of the build
ing every hour for an airing, and play in the yard for about
ten rainutes. Every school has a library, provided from a
fund, and additions of books arc raade at eacb terra. I have
seen in some more than 30,000 volumes. Many besides have

FINE SCHOOL BUILDINGS.

379

museums, with zoological, geological, and botanical collections.
The smaller scholars learn from the black-board to read rausic.
The children of the poor are neatly dressed, for the parents
feel that it would be a shame to send thera otherwise.
It has always been a cause of sorroAv to rae, while travelling
in Europe, to come in contact with communities Avhere the great

SOIIOOL-IIOUSE AT HAPAEANDA.

mass of the people did not care for education until quite re
cently, preferring to see their government or their cities spend
in the construction of theatres enormous sums of raone}', Avliich
could have built thousands of school-houses in the midst of
a vast population that could neither read nor write. I am not
speaking here against theatres, for I rayself attend them, nor
against amusements, for they are necessary for the health
of the body as well as of the mind ; only I would have the
school -house first, and should prefer to live in the poorest
town .provided Avith one, where children can be well educated,
rather than in a beautiful city Avithout any. No country can

380 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
thoroughly love education unless the people sincerely respect
those who instruct its youth ; and I was particularly glad to
notice in Scandinavia how much the teachers Avere esteemed,
their calling being considered a high one: the educating of
the future generation is fully appreciated. This is partly due
to the fact that the school-teachers are unusually proficient,
most of them being graduates of the universities. In dis
tricts where the population is sparse, tbe country school-mas
ter, a peasant himself, not a graduate, nor knowing enough to
enable him to teach the studies the laAV requires, is neverthe
less held in high regard by the good farraers, and is always
welcome in the family circle. I was specially pleased to see
the consideration shown by parents to the governesses of their
children. They are generally highly educated, and regarded
as part of the family, and, as well as tutors, are treated by all
with a great deal of respect.
Compulsory education has been enforced for a long time in
Scandinavia. A law was passed by the Swedish Diet in 1S42.
requiring every child to attend a school, or to receive instruc
tion at home, frora the ninth year to the tirae of confirma
tion at home, from the ninth year to the time of confirmation.
Norway followed the lead of her consort in 1848, making edu
cation compulsory between the ages of eight and fifteen.
By the census of 1873 the population of Sweden was
4,297,972;* of which, according to the latest statistics, the whole
number of children of school age was 734,165, or 17 per cent.
Of this nuraber 371,622 were boys, and 362,543 giris. Nearly
83 per cent., or 607,986 children, attended the primary and
people's schools: of these, 239,517 the stationary, 149,565 the
ambulatory, 218,616 the primaiy, and only 288 the hogre
folkskolor. In other public schools 9293 Avere instructed; in
private ones 29,405 ; at home, 68,682 ; altogether, neariy 15
per cent, of the children of school age. The grand total,
therefore, was 716,366, or over 97 per cent, of all the chil
dren of that age. Those who, for one cause or another,
did not attend school, were 18,799. The number of people's
schools A^^as 3973, of whieh 2S05 Avere stationary, and 116S
ambulatoiy, besides 4143 nursery, and 10 higher people's
* III 1879 it WHS 4,578,901.

TUE SCHOOL SYSTEM, 381
schools, making a total of 8126, or about one for every 529
inhabitants. The teachers numbered 5039 males and 2776 females. Of
the former 3444, and of the latter 564, were employed in the
people's schools; 1585 males and 2212 females in tbe primary;
and at the higher people's schools, 10 males. Of the male
teachers 3215, and of females 485, had graduated at a semi
nary of learning.
The population of Norway in 1875 was 1,817,000, and
the whole nuraber of school children was 267,000, of whom
211,000 Avere instructed in the stationary ; in ambulatory,
30,000 ; in private schools of the sarae scope as the almue-
skolor (people's schools), 4000 ; iu the higher ones and under
private teachers, 17,000 ; while 6000, frora various causes, re
ceived no instruction. The instruction was given by 3900
teachers, raale and female. The whole number of stationary
people's schools was 4470, with 2266 teachers. The ambula
tory nurabered 1911, with 999 teachers. Of higher people's
schools there Avere 19, with 467 pupils, besides 20 people's
high-schools, Avith about 400 pupils. The lower schools of the
towns were attended by 33,200 children, with 638 teachers.
The average salary of a Norwegian or Swedish country teacher
is about 500 kronor, besides which he gets a house and a piece
of land to cultivate.
The educational system of Sweden, as well as that of Nor
way, is worthy of great praise. The free-schools include Sm^-
barnsskolor, or primaries, which instruct children under the
school age in the rudiments of religion, reading, writing, men
tal arithmetic, and singing. The folkskolor (people's schools)
are of two kinds, the stationary and the ambulatory ; the lat
ter being under the care of teachers, as we have seen in the
course of these volumes, who go from place to place at stated
periods. The instruction in the folkskolor is reading, religion, and
Biblical history, Bible reading, and the memorizing of hyrans
and selected pieces out of a Reader, combining natural his
tory, the eleraents of natural sciences, and the history of the
country, besides singing, writing, reading, written arithmetic.

382 THE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN.
and, if circumstances alloAv, gymnastics and railitary exercises.
The School Board can, if so disposed, extend this curriculum
also to grammar, geography, history, natural sciences, drawing,
surveying — and, for girls, needle-work — and, in the country dis
tricts, horticulture or gardening. These schools are generally
open for eight months in the year in the southern part of the
country, and nine or ten months elsewhere. In raost places
instruction is given every Aveek-day, but in others only on five
days ; and in the ambulatory schools the pupils are examined
on the sixth day. The daily period of attendance is from five
to six hours.
Tbe folkhogskolor (people's high-schools) have only lately
corae into existence ; their object being to instruct young men
and women of the working-classes, Avho have already attained
an age far beyond that required by law for attending school.
The studies here pursued comprise a more extended course
of the subjects taught in the free-schools, besides the elements
of useful sciences and their application. There are fourteen
of them. For the instruction a small fee is charged, the
schools mainly deriving their support from private subscrip
tions, and from appropriations by the county or the State.
The nation is continually progressing, and the hogre folk
skolor, or higher people's schools, which Avere established in
1858, in 1875 numbered ten, with ten teachers. They are
open only during the winter months, and their purpose is to
give to such children of the working-classes as are endowed
with greater capacities and desire for learning an opportunity
to acquire a higher degree of knowledge, without detriment
to their occupation. The course of instruction is the same as
in the folkskolor, book-keeping and free-band drawing being
added, but the studies are extended. The teachers are required
to be graduates from one of the universities. The State con
siders itself bound to give free education only so far as is
provided by these institutions.
The elementary schools are divided into tAvo grades, the
lower and higher ; the smaller towns having only the former,
Avhich has five classes or less ; the higher, seven. In both, the
studies are the same in the corresponding sections, but schol-

STUDIES IN ELEMENTARY SCHOOLS ;>s;l
ars of the lower grade have to go through the course of study
of the last two classes of the higher school to enter one of the
universities. The course requires five years for the first five
classes, and four years for the last two, the scholastic year being
divided into two terms of eighteen weeks each. The number
of these schools amounts to 9S, Avith 967 teachers. The object
of these institutions, which also receive support from the State,
is to impart a general education, and knowledge of the sciences
higher than that of the people's schools.
The morning exercises begin with prayer, the reading of
the Bible, and the singing of hymns, which occupy half an
hour. The studies are iu religion, in the Swedish language,
matberaatics, geometry, writing, natural philosophy, history,
geography, singing, drawing, Latin, French, German, and Eng
lish ; but those Avho study Latin cannot be instructed in Eng
lish. The tasks of the two higher classes embrace a more ex
tended consideration of the same subjects, with the addition
of Greek, philosophy, natural history, physics, chemistry, min
eralogy, and geology, Hebrew being optional. Instruction in
gymnastics and railitary exercises is given to all the seven
classes for half an hour every day; besides which the fifth
class is instructed for one hour, and the sixth and seventh
for tAvo hours each week, in the use of arms. At the begin
ning and end of each school year a more extended course of
training is given in drill, target- shooting, and field manoeu
vres, for eight or ten weeks, to the scholars of the sixth and
seventh classes. These elementary schools are so situated
that tbe people who desire that their children shall receive a
good education are not compelled to travel very far; for ex
ample, in the far North, LuleS has a complete institution of
this kind, with seven classes. To be accepted as a pupil in this
grade of schools a boy raust be not more than ten years of age,
and shall pass an examination in the reading of the Swedish
language, both in the Gothic and Roman characters, and be
able to repeat any passage read to him, write a plain hand,
spell tolerably, know the simple rules of arithmetic, practise
raental calculation, and possess a knowledge of the geography
of Norway, Sweden, and Denmark. The degrees of progress

384 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
in study and standing in the class are recorded daily, ten be
ing the highest mark in each subject ; and every year the pu
pils are examined. Every scholar has to pay an entrance fee
of 6 kronor, and 12 kronor 50 ore per term ; so that for the
modest sum of 25 kronor, or about six dollars a year, a young
raan can prepare himself for the University. He has, how
ever, to pay for his books.
At the suggestion of the faculty of the school, the superin
tendent may exempt a poor scholar from a part or the whole
of the fees required. In order to become an instructor in an
elementary school, it is necessary to have taken the degree of
doctor of philosophy, to have taught on trial for one year,
and to have passed a competitive examination.
Neglect to send a child of the prescribed age to school, or
in some other manner to provide the instruction required by
law, is punishable by fine in Norway ; and, in case of opposi
tion from the parents, the child can be taken away and be left
at their expense with another family. In Sweden no fine is
exacted. Factory owners, who employ children, regulate their
work so as not to interfere with their education.
The folkskolor are supported by the districts, but also re
ceive aid from the State, and are governed by a school board
chosen by the people, whose president is the pastor of the par
ish, or, in the towns, a rainister selected by the bishop. In the
country, if farms are situated near enough together to enable
thirty scholars to attend school every day, a house is erected
or rented for such a purpose. Where the farms are far apart
the school is ambulatory, and it is the duty of the farmers to
provide rooms for the pupils and teacher, as well as board for
the latter during the time the instruction lasts. In this are
also embraced such holidays as may fall Avithin this period.
In Sweden the board consists of at least four members be
sides the president, elected by the voters of the parish for four
years. The bishop and consistory of the bishopric have gen
eral supervision of school affairs, and are obliged to report
every third year to the ecclesiastical department, which has
supreme control of the schools. The supervision of the folks
kolor is exercised by a school inspector appointed by the head

HOW IHE COST OF SCHOOL IS DEFRAYED. 385
of the same department. The inspectors are appointed for
five years. In Norway there is one in every stift or bishop
ric. Their salaries are paid by the State, and are proportion
ate to the size of the district. They are also allowed travel
ling expenses.
The private schools are under the general supervision of the
public board, which, if the instruction does not come up to the
standard prescribed by law, can order the children to be trans
ferred to some other institution.
The cost of the school is defrayed as f oUoavs : for the erec
tion of school-houses it is procured in the same manner as for
the building of churches, by taxing the real estate ; and for
the pay of the teachers and necessary expenses, by an indi
vidual tax, which cannot exceed eighteen ore for each tax
payer; and, if this is not sufficient, and there are no other
means of obtaining the amount, then the contributions are
made over again in the same manner as the comraunal assess
ments. Under certain conditions, when the cost of the schools
exceeds the limits of taxation, the government grants a sub
vention, which is principally invested to pay the teachers, who
advance by a system of promotion which prevents favoritism.
The highest salary is attained after twenty years of faithful
service, an increase being raade every five years.
Once a year, in Norway and Sweden, all the boys of the
free-schools are collected, and go through a great military pa
rade. Each school has its place ; sorae of them even have a
band of rausic, and show the public ou drill day what they
have learned. They are cheered by the people, who prepare
a feast for thera, for great interest is taken in the evolutions,
especially the exercises with wooden gunsi
Besides the public schools there are sorae private schools in
the towns, the graduates frora a few of which have the right
of adraission to the universities. There are also a large num
ber of public and private professional and trades schools, in
some of which fees are charged for instruction, while in oth
ers it is free. There are also seminaries for the education of
male and female teachers, to which a primary school is gen
erally attached, where the future instructor has an opportunity
VOL. II. 2 0

386 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
of learning his art, and in which the tuition is free. For girls
there are, besides the national schools, a large number of pri
vate elementary, and also public and private industrial schools.
There are in the country eleven free folkskolldrwre-semi-
na/rier, which are seminaries for teachers of folkskolor — seven
for males and four for females. These seminaries have three
classes, and the course in each class is one year ; the year con
sisting of 36 weeks, divided into two terms, with 36 hours of
instruction weekly. The studies include religion, the Swedish
language, arithmetic, geometry, geography, history, natural
philosophy, the science of teaching writing, draAnng, music,
singing, gymnastics, the manual of arms, horticulture, and cul
tivation of trees. The number of students in 1875 was 780,
of whom 588 were males and 192 females; and the number
of graduates was 193, of whom 146 were males and 47 fe
males. In the ncAv female seminaries there are special classes
to prepare instructors for the primary schools.
The " Seminarium for bildande of lararinnor " (seminary for
the education of female teachers) was established in 1861, and
has a corps of instructors 18 in number. In this the pupils
have to go through a course of three years, but no charge is
made. Instruction is given in religion. Church history, the
Swedish language, including the mythology of the North, Ice
landic, French, German, and English, the history of the North,
universal history, geography, natural science, hygiene, mathe
matics, and the art of teaching, besides singing, draAving, aud
gymnastics ; and, at the option of the pupils, botany, zoology,
and chemistry, natural philosophy, physiology, geometry, al
gebra, and English and German speaking exercises, etc. This
institution has connected with it a normal school for girls.
In the industrial schools, which are found only in the towns,
instruction in different trades is given ; and in that for girls
there are regular lessons in needle-Avork, etc. In some of the
larger cities the girls also learn the common household arts
of baking, washing, ironing, mending, etc.
There are technical elementary schools, where young men
intending to learn a trade receive, without charge, a theoreti
cal and practical education. The course lasts three years, and

POLYTECHNIC SCHOOLS, 387
comprises instruction in raathematics, linear and free-hand
draAving, modelling, mechanics, mechanical technology, engi
neering, natural philosophy, chemistry, botany, zoology, mod
ern languages, book-keeping, and commerce. The number
of teachers in these is from six to nine, and of pupils exceeds
a thousand. There are in several towns free evening and Sunday classes,
where the pupils are taught mechanical trades, and two high
er technical schools, where a tuition fee is charged. The
Teknologiska Institutet (Polytechnic Institute) at Stockholm,
founded in 1798, was established to give scientific education
to young men intending to follow some technical business as
a profession. The studies are mathematics, geodesy and to
pography, theoretical and practical mechanics, descriptive ge
ometry, physics, elementary chemistry, chemical aud mechan
ical technology, geology, road and canal construction, draw
ing, mining, metallurgy, and smelting. The course continues
for three years. In 1875 there were 17 professors and tutors,
and 218 students pursuing the entire course, while 62 were
studying only certain branches.
The Chalmerska Slojdskolan (Chalmer Polytechnic School)
in Gothenburg, founded in 1811, has the sarae course of stud
ies, except those belonging to the branch of mining. It had,
in 1875, 10 teachers, one of whom was the principal. The
number of scholars was 149.
Two elementary mining schools are established at Falun and
Filipstad, which are, properly speaking, private enterprises, be
ing supported either by tbe society of miners or by the Iron
masters' Association (Jernkontoret).
As I have before mentioned, there are 27 agricultural
schools and 2 agricultural colleges. I have given an account
of the former in the first volume, with the studies required.
Of the latter, one is situated at Ultuna, near Upsala, and the
other at Alnarp, near Lund, in the southern part of Sweden.
The first I have visited. In the colleges the studies are agri
culture and rural econoray, cattle-raising, anatomy and physi
ology, diseases of domestic animals, geology, chemistry, natural
philosophy, forestry, gardening, land laws, book-keeping, farra
2 c 2

388 THE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN,
architecture, practical mechanics, machinery and map-drawings,
surveying, and raanageraent of the dairy. The students also
have to participate in actual farra-work. The nuraber of pu
pils in 1875 was 63, with 20 teachers. The charge for board
and tuition is 600 kronor per annum, and at each college there
are four free scholarships. The course is for two years.
There are large tracts of land connected with Ultuna. This
institution sends out some of the very best practical farm
ers in the country. Distinguished professors and teachers de
liver lectures to the students ; a veterinary surgeon instructs
them in the diseases of cattle, and a museum, stocked with
skeletons and other speciraens, illustrates their lectures. Nu
raerous scientific works on chemistry and agriculture are in
the library ; and there is a fine laboratory, in which chemistry
applied to agriculture is thoroughly taught. There is also
a botanical garden, where cereals of different countries are
groAvn, and where experiments with fertilizers are made, be
sides a vegetable and fruit garden ; but the fruit-trees seemed
to be neglected, it is said, on account of the poor ground.
Special care is taken in the breeding and crossing of stock,
and fine horses and cows are raised, many of which are sold.
There is also a dairy, where great attention is paid to the
raaking of butter and cheese.
A prerequisite of admission is that the applicant must have
passed the examination necessary for matriculation at the
universities, or a similar one at the college. The colleges
are supported exclusively by the State. There are two dairy-
schools for women, where they receive theoretical and prac
tical instruction.
Good care is taken of the deaf, dumb, and blind. In Swe
den there is a very fine institution, the Manilla, in Stockholm,
Avith 208 pupils ; besides 13 smaller ones, situated in different
parts of tbe country, A\'ith 398 inmates. In Norway there is
a special institution for the blind, and four for the deaf and
dumb. In Norway the scope and regulations of the Alraueskolor
(comraon people's schools) are about the same as those in
Sweden. The School Board also can establish scAving and

NORWEGIAN HIGH-SCHOOLS. 389
other industrial schools, as Avell as others for children under
the legal school age. The higher people's schools and peo
ple's high-schools are sirailar to those of Sweden, except that
the latter are free, although supported by private raeans. In
the raountain districts, where, in consequence of the sparsity
of the population, even ambulatory teaching cannot be ar
ranged, the Board is empowered to provide for the instruc
tion of the children in some other manner.
The Norwegian high-schools correspond very nearly to the
Swedish elementary schools, the studies and the time of in
struction being the same. They, however, differ in the fact
that the separate branches generally have independent schools.
Of State high-schools there are 16, with 195 teachers and 2122
pupils. Of private high-schools there are 4, with 1266 schol
ars. There are 14 serainaries for the training of male teach
ers, with 343 students ; but for female teachers there is only
one, situated in Christiania. In the country districts there
are 400 free evening classes, raost of which receive support
from the State. In the towns there are 35 comraunal middle
schools, with 173 teachers aud 26,345 scholars; and 126 pri
vate raiddle schools, with 5692 pupils. Of private high-schools
only a comparatively small nuraber are established, owing, no
doubt, to the excellence of the public schools, and these are
found mostly in the largest towns.
For girls there are no public schools corresponding to the
elementary schools, but a considerable number of private in
stitutions, supported principally by the fees paid by the schol
ars, only a few of whom receive aid from the State. From
these the graduates have the privilege of adraission to the uni
versities. The yearly school time of Norway is far too short to give a
practical education ; and in this respect it falls far behind that
of SAveden. The Norwegian school year in the rural districts
must be at least 12 weeks per annum, or, where the school is
divided into classes getting instruction at different times, 9
weeks— each week being reckoned at 6 days, and every day at
6 hours, thus giving instruction for 432— or 324 hours yearly.
It is also required that in every factory employing on an av-

390 THE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN,
erage 30 raen or more in steady labor, as well as in a collec
tion of smaller works lying near each other, which together
have that number of workraen, there shall be constructed and
organized classes for the children of the laborers, if the own
ers of the works cannot agree with the School Board in regard
to the use of the schools already in existence. In the larger
towns one or raore classes are organized with separate depart
ments for boys and girls, and they have to be kept open daily
— each child receiving at least 12 hours' instruction each week.
As a rule, no teacher raay instruct raore than 60 pupils at one
tirae. A yearly examination is held in presence of the pastor
of the parish and the raerabers of the School Board. At visi
tations of bishop or pastor the children are examined in their
religious knowledge.
Refractory children receive marks for bad conduct; after
which they are warned by the principal of the school twice,
and if they then do not improve, they receive corporal pun
ishraent. Sweden has two universities: that of Upsala was inaugu
rated September 21st, 1477, and of Lund, January 2Sth, 1668.
The former was already a seat of learning in 1249. At that
time there was a college where the studies of theology, phil
osophy, and raedicine were pursued. In 1875 the nuraber of
professors and students at Upsala were as follows :

Theological Faculty. . .
Law " 

Professors.
 10 
 9 

Students.
 332 142

Medical " . . . .

14

151

Philosophical " . . . .

 Yl
 104

.... S55

Total 

 1480

The University of Lund in the sarae year had the f olloAving :
Professors. Students.
Theological Faculty  1  112
Law "  6  S4
Medical "  9  44
Philosophical "  47  313
Total  69  623

GENERAL REMARKS. I 391
Norway has one university at Christiania, inaugurated in
1811, before which tirae Norwegians who desired a higher
education had to go to the University of Copenhagen, that
city having been for centuries the coraraon capital of the two
countries. There are 46 professors and 831 students.
The whole nuraber of university students in the two coun
tries amounted to 2834, with 219 professors.
There are nuraerous scientific and other institutions, sorae
of which have been described in these volumes — schools of
midwifery for women, colleges of medicine, veterinary sur
gery, pharmacy, and forestry, etc., etc.
Teachers, after thirty j'ears of service, receive a pension.
In Sweden each school district is bound to pay to the pen
sion fund four per cent, of the salary of every teacher. In
Norway they are pensioned by the State. The systera of
education is so perfect that there are no private boarding-
schools in either country.
I have dwelt particularly upon the educational system, be
cause I consider that it has been developed to meet the re
quirements of the people in an extraordinary degree ; and, as
I leave the subject, I cannot refrain from the expression of an
opinion that the example so well set raight be followed with
favorable results by other countries which make much greater
pretensions in this direction without producing so substantial
an effect.

392 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.

CHAPTER XXXIV.
Linkoping. — Its Cathedral. — A Water-way through South Ostergotland. — Superb
Trees. — Atvidaberg. — A Night Watchman. — The Estate of Adelsnas. — A Pleas
ant Welcome. — The Manor of Adelsnas. — Unpretending Life. — Our Host and
Hostess. — The Copper-mines of Atvidaberg. — Wages of Miners. — The Winers'
Homes. — Kindly Manners towards the Artisans. — Politeness to Inferiors. — The
Village Dancing-place. — Good Feelings. — A School for the Miners' Children.
Feom Norrkoping* one of the highways leads to Linkoping,
an inland and very old town on the shores of the St§,ng§,n
River, with a population of about 8000. The cathedral, begun
about 1150, has a length of 329 feet ; Roman in style, with
twenty large pillars in two rows to support tbe roof. An
other church, St. Lawrence (St. Lars), also dates from the
twelfth century. The castle, built between 1470 and 1500, is
a massive but not handsome building. In the old element
ary school is a library of over 30,000 volumes, together with
coins, portraits, and antiquities.
From Linkoping an interesting trip is by water south,
through the remaining part of Ostergotland, a distance of
over one hundred railes. A canal connects the lakes with
each other, and stearaers make the passage every alternate day.
On the way are seen some large estates with fine chateaux —
among them Sturefors, one of the largest of the province ; Saby,
on the Rangen Lake ; Brokind, with its fine collection of paint
ings and library, and whose park occupies several islands.
Taking one of the highways which leads south of Norr
koping, I saw, a few railes from that city, the chateau of
Lofsta, on a hill overlooking the road and a small lake, with
its fine and shaded grounds. Farther on, after passing Fil-
* In one part of Sweden the names of quite a nuraber of towns end in koping
— as Malmkbping, Nykbping, Norrkoping (norr, north), Sbderkoping {soder mean
ing south), Linkbping, Lidkoping, Falkbping, and Jbnkbping.

A NIGHT-WATCHMAN'S SONG. 393
linge, I entered a splendid wood of pines and firs, araong the
finest in Sweden, and as yet untouched by the axe. A pict
uresque scene suddenly carae into view. The fields of wheat
and rye were bright with poppies, while buttercups and dan
delions relieved the green of tbe meadows. The weather was
quite warm, and the time passed so rapidly among these beau
ties of nature that before I knew it I reached the station of
Orsater, where we stopped to allow the horse to rest.
As we approached the copper-mines and sraelting-furnaces
of Atvidaberg the distant hills looked dark and desolate, for
the sulphurous sraoke, carried day after day by the wind,
had destroyed vegetation. I saw on a hill the faraily vault in
which the barons of Adelsward are buried. Soon afterwards
I came to Atvidaberg, a small hamlet consisting of a roAV of
white- plastered houses, with vegetable gardens attached. It
had a comfortable hotel, which, like all the other houses of
the place, belonged to the estate. In the valley were the sraelt
ing-furnaces, around Avhich clustered the dwellings of the oper
atives — the whole forming a street of red-painted log-houses,
roofed with red tiles, Avith a public square, and a pond with a
bathing-house for the people. At some distance was a brick
yard, a foundry where iron pipes were made, and a black
smith's shop where the tools were mended. The village was
silent, for its inhabitants had gone to rest. The night was
beautiful ; the rays of the moon rairrored themselves in the
pond ; the rausic of the Avater, as it plashed down frora the
mill, added its charm; the sraoke frora the high chimneys
rested araong the hills in bluish streaks. The blowing of
the horn of the watchman — an officer who is found in every
Swedish village — warned me that the cloek had just struck,
and I heard him sing, " God keep
Houses and the land
From fire and burning,
The hour of eleven has struck.
God keep
The house and the land
From fire and burning.
The hour of eleven has struck."

394 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
Atvidaberg is part of the large estate of Adelsnas, which is
entailed in the family of the Baron of Adelsward, and em
braces nine parishes ; that part which is in Ostergotland alone
contains over 41,000 acres, and is one of the largest and most
valuable properties in the country, ou account of its copper-
mines. The family dwelling is about two miles from the ham
let, on the farther shore of a small lake. On my approach
ing the water, a young girl, thirteen or fourteen years of age,
rowed towards me. She was tidy and clean, her coraplexion
fair, and thoroughly northern, her hair blonde, braided and
twisted back of her head, and she was barefooted. The child
ferried me over to the house. Two ladies and two gentle
men were playing croquet on the lawn, while another gentle
man was seated on the piazza. With him I exchanged saluta
tions, and presenting my letter of introduction, Avas welcomed
in excellent English. He said his father was not at home,
but received me with the air of a polished man of the world;
as I afterwards discovered, he had been in America for nine
raonths, besides having travelled in England and in many
other parts of Europe, often " roughing it," as many English
noblemen do. The game of croquet seemed to be disturbed
for awhile by ray arrival. I was presented to the guests and
the raerabers of the family; and refreshraents having been
brought in, we kept up a pleasant conversation. The charm
ing hostess, a model of simplicity, was attired in a pretty cal
ico dress, fitting like a glove, with a plain white collar, and a
ribbon fastened with a siraple brooch. The other ladies were
dressed in the sarae unostentatious fashion.
An atraosphere of repose surrounded this unpretending
abode. The view of the lake, a shady A\'alk under a roAv
of tall trees, beds of flowers, large spreading oaks, and white-
trunked birch and other trees, and the green grass, gave
a great charm to the place. Near the mansion Avere the
graperies and hot-houses, which, among other things, contain
ed apricots and peaches on trellises; also forced strawberries,
cherries, and raspberries. A long white house, Avith only one
story and roofed with tiles, contained bedrooms for guests.
At the manor the life Avas simple and unostentatious. Dur-

A HOME SCENE. 395
ing the warm days the drawing-room windows were open, to
let in the balmy air, and to enable the raother or attendants
to Avatch the children playing upon the lawn; their school
days were now over, vacation had corae, and the tutor of the
boys and the governess of the girls were soon to leave on a
visit to their friends. The raerry laugh of the young peo
ple fell pleasantly upon the ear, and now and then the half-
hidden smile of the mother showed that she could hear and
was enjoying the happiness of her little ones.
Industry is part of a lady's education in Sweden, and idle
habits are very seldom indulged in, even by members of the
aristocracy. The duties of house-keeping are not considered
below the dignity of the high-born or of the wealthy. They
are often busy with their needle- work, which does not pre
vent their taking part in agreeable conversation.
Dinner was social, and the table was adorned with a beau
tiful silver vase — given by Gustaf III. to the faraily of the
baron — in which Avas a large bouquet of fresh flowers. There
was no f orraality ; the conversation was pleasant and varied ;
and nothing was wanting that could raake the repast agree
able. The governess Avas also at the table. After coffee, a
drive or walk wound up the day. The hostess and myself
occupied one carriage. The good lady, as I learned, always
provided herself with a bag of new pennies for the little
children who were watching at the gates on tbe road to open
them for travellers.
The largest of the Atvidaberg raines is that at Bersbo, with
a depth of 1286 feet, while that of Mormorsgruf van attains
a depth of 1360 feet, the greatest in Sweden. These are the
most important, but there are several smaller ones.
According to appointment, the baron in his carriage drove
me to the copper -raines of Bersbo, six English miles from
the sraelting-furnaces, the ore being transported by a rail
way. I declined the invitation to go 1200 feet under
ground, and wind my way through the dark galleries and
narrow passages. The mine employed frora 400 to 500 per
sons, whose wages ranged that year frora 40 to 60 kronor a
month each. Women, girls, and boys were also employed

396 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
to assort and treat the ore preparatory to smelting, making
from four to six kroner weekly. The women were work
ing, while their children played around ; some of the mothers
had left their babies under the care of elder sisters. None
appeared coarse or dirty. Some two hundred females and
quite a nuraber of children were employed; for among the
poorer classes of the Swedes, as with tbe thrifty French and
Germans, every raember of a household helps in its support.
Besides their pay, each family received every year ten cords of
wood and lodging free. The rooms in the cottages Avere about
18 feet long by 14 or 15 wide ; a spacious hall ran through
each dwelling, and each had an upper story, with a detached
store-house for wood and provisions. The floors in all I visited
were very neat, and everything about the houses was exceed
ingly tidy. Sewing-machines were quite coramon : the furni
ture was plain ; a few AA'ooden chairs, a clock, simple pictures,
a bed or two, and a stove, made up the frugal appointments.
Many of the houses contained looms, with which the mother
or the elder daughter wove cloth for the family, when they
had time to spare. On the walls of some of the rooms hung
tin boxes, used to keep leaves or flowers collected by the
miners' children on their botanical excursions, for the love of
botany is extensively cultivated in Sweden. In one cottage
a poor widow was quietly Aveaving, and by her side a bright-
looking lad was studying, in preparation for entering the
high-school in Linkoping : a part of the little money left by
the father was appropriated to the education of this lad. I
was struck with the kindly raanner with which everybody
was treated. Now and then a poor barefooted working-A\^om-
an came to the superintendent to make sorae inquiries; as
soon as he was addressed he at once uncovered his head,
notwithstanding a very warra sun, and listened to her, paying
attention to her remarks, and showing no sign of impatience ;
his answers were made in a quiet and polite AA-ay. It would be
Avcll if the higher classes everywhere should give the example
of good-breeding to the humble. The baron never entered a
miner's cottage without uncovering and remaining so while
he Avas under the roof of his Avorkraan.

A RURAL SCENE. 397
When the miners or their families fell ill, they Avere cared
for at the expense of the baron; and if a man was killed, a
pension was given to his family. When 1 asked the superin
tendent, " Do you not turn away the Avife and children of a
deceased miner, and leave them to shift for themselves ?" his
ansAver Avas, " No, indeed !" with a look of disgust, as if the
very thought of such a selfish act had never been entertained
by the owner of the estate, and Avould be considered wicked
by himself and the communitj^
Now what are the results of the support of schools, and of a
certain degree of education among the Avorking-people? To
what does this politeness of all classes towards each other
tend ? Siraply this : to bring about a better state of feeling in
all the different eleraents of society, and to produce rautual
consideration. A few strikes have taken place in Sweden, but
only Avithin late years ; ordinarily, a disagreement and tho
causes of a dispute are talked over by employer and eraploy
ed as araong intelligent rational beings; there are no threats
of intimidation, no arson, no carrying of arras, no murder, no
lying in ambush, and beating of those avIio do not wish to join
the strike ; no arraed bands parading streets and districts with
looks of anger and hate ; no booting, no vulgar language, no
oaths debasing the children who bear them, and brutalizing
still more those who utter them.
There is a pleasant spot near the church, shaded by fine old
oak-trees, under tbe branches of Avhich the workmen, their
Avives, and the village people raeet, and, seated on the grass,
listen to the rausic. All the musicians are either miners or
workmen. A circular dancing- fioor had also been built on
this place by the baron's father especially foi' the use of the
people — an act which showed the kindly feeling that existed.
The baron and his family rarely failed to come to the social
meeting. I noticed the politeness, and at the same time the
manbness of the villagers, of the miners, and working-men
who Avere present ; there was none of that extreme obsequi
ousness frora tbe hurable to their superiors which one so
often raeets in many countries ; while at the same time there
was not the slightest shoAV of authority or display of pride

398 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
on the part of the latter, who, by their position, might have
thought themselves entitled to receive homage from those
they employed.
A visit to the public school showed the beneficial infiuence
it exerted morally, socially, and intellectually. These miners'
children were all very attentive to their studies, and tidy in
their persons. Each girl had a colored calico handkerchief
over her head, in true Swedish fashion, with the hair nicely
corabed, and face and hands clean ; they attended the classes
for three days in the week, and none of them seemed to be
overworked. The boys were all barefooted, but their feet were
clean, being washed often during the day ; they all looked
happy, and evidently enjoyed the exercises of the hour: the
raarching and counterraarching was regulated by the stroke
of a bell. In one of the rooms music was written on a black
board, and the children sang from these notes, the teacher
pointing with a wand from bar to bar ; in this Avay they learned
to read rausic at sight. One class was coraposed of girls and
boys, the girls occupying all the front seats and the boys the
rear, Sorae children of seven years of age Avrote sentences
on their slates for me, and their bright eyes shone merrily as
I read them.
It was with regret that I parted from this Arcadian spot,
where the wealthy and the mining population were so friend
ly, I do not know of any place in any part of the world,
either in a raining or manufacturing district, where the feel
ing is so cordial between employer and employes. It left a
deep impression upon my mind, and refiects great credit on
the noble rich family of Adelsward : may their descendants
follow their example.

THE PROVINCE OF SMALAND. 399

CHAPTER XXXV.
The Province of Sm&land. — A Thrifty Population. — ^Vexib. — Poor Stations. — Gam-
leby. — Westervik. — Visits at the Parsonage. — A Festive Occasion. — A Concert
by Ladies. — Oscarshamn. — Kalmar. — A Holiday. — Bad Temper of the People. —
A Beautiful Highway. — Grand Beech and Oak Trees. — Great Variety of Mush
rooms. — Poor Food at the Stations. — The Churches of Hagby and Voxtorp. —
Nearing Blekinge.
A FEW miles east from Atvidaberg one enters Sm§,land, a
large but a very poor province of Sweden. Many parts are
either barren or covered with moorland, forests, and also nu
merous lakes — of which the chief is the Asnen, whose shores
are extremely picturesque. The people are so frugal that it is
a saying among the Swedes, "Put a SmSlander on a barren
rock in the sea, and he will manage to make his living."
There are a number of seaports, among them Westervik,
Oscarshamn, MonsterSs, and Kalmar. There is only one inland
town of importance, Vexio, with a population of a little over
4000 inhabitants. The place is prettily situated on the shores
of a lake, and a small rivulet runs through it. It has an ex
cellent elementary school. Its cathedral was built about 1300,
and contains the grave of St. Sigfried, one of the apostles of
the North. In the church-yard is a monument over the grave
of the poet Tegndr, who was bishop of Vexio. Near the
town are the episcopal residence and the central hospital. On
an island in tho lake are tbe ruins of the castle of Kronoberg.
The town is connected by a short raihvay with the trunk line
Avhich traverses the country from Malmo in the south to
Stockholm. The morning of my departure from Atvidaberg was clear
and bracing ; the country was the more beautiful for the rain
of the day before ; everything looked fresh, though some of

400

THE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN.

the rye, which here grows very high, was prostrated. Travel
ling was very pleasant, as the roads were not dusty.
Beyond, a chain of small lakes ran towards the Baltic in a
south-easterly direction. At a short distance from the village a
cross-country road, with a post station, led from the raain high
way through a charming country as far as the village of Gam-
leby, on the sea. The cross-roads increase largely in nuraber to-
Avards the south, and often pass in so many directions that the

VEXIO OATIIEDEAL, FEOM THE SOUTH-WEST.

traveller is at a loss Avliich to choose Avben desirous of getting
out of the more direct highway. The landscape continued to
become more picturesque ; the rocky hills were covered Avith
trees, the fields were in fine condition, and the banks of the
lakes were dotted with small thriving farms. At Ofverum
there was a large manufactory of agricultural implements ;
mowing and threshing-machines and ploughs were raade here,
the raachinery being raoved by water-power.
It Avas late in the afternoon Avhen I entered Garaleby. The

A FEAST AI A PARSONAGE. 401
situation of this village is quite picturesque, at the head of a
narrow fjord ; a small stream runs through it, upon the banks
of AN'hich a saAV and two other mills are kept busy during the
summer raonths. There was a Tingshus, or court-house, built
of stone, which was used partly as a hotel ; the station was
good. Some of the houses were painted white or light green,
but the greatest number were red, and roofed with red tiles ;
numerous pots with flowers in bloom ornamented the win
dows. From here one can go to Westervik either by land or
water ; but in order to take the road it is necessary to be fer
ried over the fjord. A small steamer runs daily between the
two places, leaving every raorning at half -past six o'clock.
After a pleasant sail of an hour and a half we came along
side the quay of Westervik, a town of 6600 inhabitants, and
possessing two ship-yards and sorae factories. The streets are
paved with very sraall cobble-stones put close together, and
walking is difficult and fatiguing to those unaccustomed to
such pavements, unless they wear thick -soled shoes. The
houses are spacious and airy, with large yards. If relay-sta
tions are bad as regards food, one is sure to find in a town a
comfortable hotel where the table is good, and this place was
no exception to the rule.
At Atvidaberg a letter of introduction had been kindly
given me to Dr. B  , a learned professor living in Wester
vik, who did all he could to make ray stay agreeable. I was
invited by the pastor to join a party of gentleraen at dinner,
and was received very warmly and hospitably by him and his
wife. The entertainment was given in honor of the School
Board of Examiners ; thirty gentlemen were present, nearly all
of whom could speak French, German, and English ; and the so
ciable and pleasant manners of the company were very agree
able. According to the custom, where so great a nuraber of
guests are assembled together, we helped ourselves, and took
seats at little tables in the different rooms. A toast was pro
posed by the pastor in honor of the School Board of Examiners,
and we all exchanged boAvs with them before sipping the wine.
Afterwards the host kindly proposed my health, and paid rae
the high compliment of saying that I was known in SAveden,
VOL. II, 2 D

402 THE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN.
and was welcorae in the country. I felt uncomfortable at
such pointed remarks, but again we all bowed to each other.
Coffee was served under the trees in the garden, and then we
separated. During the suraraer raonths musicians and theatri
cal bands travel through the country, and on this evening a
concert was given in the high-school building, which began at
seven o'clock. The performers were three ladies, one of whom
played on the violin, another on the violoncello, and the third
on the piano ; they were excellent musicians, and one sang
finely. The audience was large, for Westervik seemed to have
turned out in a body on this occasion.
From Westervik the sail along the shore is pleasant, as it
genera,lly is in summer on the tranquil waters of the Baltic ;
for at this season the sea is seldom rough.
Either by land or by steamer one raay reach Oscarshamn,
on a small bay protected hy numerous islands, with a popula
tion of 5500 inhabitants ; it has ship-yards, a machine-shop, and
a foundry. Farther south is the port of Kalmar, the most ira
portant in Sra^land, with a population of about 10,000. The
situation of the city is very picturesque. The streets are wide
and clean, and paved with cobble-stones; the houses are gener
ally two stories in height, with large rooras ; and on the public
square is the church, a fine, spacious building. The streets
extend at right angles from the square, and lead to every part
of the town and to the old fortifications. At intervals you see
sorae queer old-fashioned pumps, which supply the people with
water. The old ramparts are the pride of the place. Upon
them a park-like garden has been created ; the ample ground
being tastefully laid out with beautiful lawns, groves, hedges
ten feet high, and chestnut, elm, maple, apple, and other trees,
and a fiower-garden. From this can be seen the Baltic, the
island of Oland, and the vessels at anchor.
The ancient Kalmar during heathen tiraes was a great mar
ket-place, and afterwards was knoAvn by the expedition, the so-
called Kalmare Ledung, of Sigurd Jorsalafar to Sra§,land. It
Avas long the greatest city of Southern Sweden, and for centu
ries was considered the key to the country, being strongly for
tified. Among the many historical events which have taken

THE CASTLE OF KALMAR.

403

3. Each king-

place within its walls was the Diet of 1332,Avhen Sk^ne, Hab
land, and Blekinge submitted to the Swedish Crown ; but a
sum of 70,000 marks had to be paid to the Duke of Holstein
and others, who held these provinces as pledges for money
loaned to the King of Denmark. In 1397 there was a Diet,
when the so-called Kalmar Union was concluded. It contained
the following provisions : 1. That all three kingdoms should
always be united, and have one and the sarae king. 2. A new
king should be cho
sen by the councils of
the three united king
doms, together and
unanimously, but not
by each kingdom sep
arately.dom should

be gov
erned by its own laws
and custoras. Besides
these, there were sev
eral similar articles.
This covenant was
written on parchment
in duplicates, which
are preserved,
f\C, ' r^ i.1 OOAT-OF-AE.MS OF KING OHEISTIAN I. OF DEN.MAEK, SWEDEN,
Ulten Since nas tne ^j^^ noewat, during the ti.ve of the kalmae union.
city been exposed to
attacks of the enemy. The old castle, built shortly before
the year 1200, is still standing, and its interior has for many
years been undergoing a restoration to its original appearance.
The great object of attraction is the octagon bedroora of Erik
XIV, in one of the turrets. The ornamentation of the ceil
ing and inlaid floor, and other adornments of the apartment,
were the work of the king's own hand. This castle was once
changed into a still; then into a granary; and was left at last
to perish, until Oscar, father of the present monarch, interposed
for the preservation of this historic pile ; but, with the excep
tion of the ramparts and castle, nothing remains to indicate
the antiquity of the town, for it has suffered greatly frora fires,
2 D 2

404

IHE LAND UF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.

The Kalmar Union Avas substantially in existence from 1389
to 1521, though several times interrupted by jealous wars. In
1521 the first Wasa appeared, and the Danish power was broken.
One midsummer day found rae in Kab
mar, when the ringing of the morning bells
called the faithful to the church ; the edifice
was large, but the congregation was small,
and composed principally of Avomen, The
city had a gala appearance; the people were
dressed in their holiday garb, and steamers
were crowded with thera going to Oland to
spend the day. Good-looking girls were dil
igently taking passengers in their boats from
one place to another, reaping a good harvest
of cash. On this part of the coast the mid
sumraer dance is often marred by scenes of
drunkenness, and the May-pole festival ends
in a general fight, I was present at one, and
was startled by the evident specimen of row
dyism, and the use of the knife.
The people around Kalmar are among the worst charac
ters I met in Scandinavia ; and, with those of Blekinge, are
noted for their fiery terapers. It was coramon in former days
for A^'omen of the latter province, when thej' went to these
dances, to take linen with them in case their husbands or
brothers were wounded ; people not unfrequently were killed,
especially in the frontier towns. They used to wrestle with
knives, the men divesting theraselves of their garments, and
putting a belt around their waists which encircled both ; then
each holding a knife in his right hand, and Avith the other
clasping the wrist of his opponent's knife-hand, they tried to
cut each other.
Araong the highways leading out of the city of Kalmar the
one running parallel with the shores of the Baltic southward
is very charming, and passes in the midst of the raost ro
raantic part of Sm§,land, and for about thirty or forty miles
presents a constant and ever-changing panorama, with tracts of
lovely landscape; vicAvs of the sea and the shores of Oland,

00 \T - of - AEMS OF TUE
NIl'KUTZ FAMILY, NOW
EXTINCT.

SUPERB BEECH-TREES.

405

with its Avindmills ; grand old beeches {Fagus sylvatica) and
oaks, with their long, spreading branches, appear here and
there. The beech-trees were among the finest I had seen in
this or any other country ; they began to make their appear
ance on the coast only about thirty miles north of Kalmar.
The great variety of the mushroom found in the forests
is wonderful, the species numbering about two thousand. Of
these several hundred are not only a useful article of diet, but
a great many are exceedingly palatable ; of late years they have
come into general use. They are most abundant in the north
ern forests, especially during the autumn ; though this seems
incredible, the data are furnished by the eminent botanist, Pro
fessor Andersson, of the Royal Swedish Academy of Sciences.
The stations are poor, and the fare reminded rae forcibly
of the SAvedish proverb that, "At the Smaland stations one
dines sumptuously if he has a good knapsack with him."

hagby onuEOH.

This saying can justly be applied to many other provinces
than Smaiand, for, as a general rule, except in cities and large
villages, the food is of the plainest kind. As I had no knap-

406

IHE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN,

sack, and preferred to live pooriy to taking one, I was content
with eggs and a piece of cold pork and coffee ; as for fresh
bread, it is generally out of the question. Near one of the
stations a bell was suspended to a wooden framework, above
Avhich was a cross; close by was the court-house, surrounded
by a flue garden ; there was also a small prison, which at that
tirae contained no prisoners.
About nine miles south of Kalmar, near the road, is the
quaint and interesting church of Hagby, and, a short distance
beyond, that of Voxtorp. These are very old. The raiddle
parts or circular towers are thought to have been heathen tera
ples, M'hich on the introduction of Christianity were altered into
churches. The loop-holes' in the walls were probably used to
shoot arroAA's against enemies. The Solna church, near Stock
holm, is of the same style and period of architecture, and its
tower is built of large boul
ders. The earhest Swedish
churches were nearly all of
this shape, like the heathen
temples, the priest standing
in the middle, and the hearers
around hira ; in the same Avay
they were accustomed to have
their lagman (lawman, judge)
stand in their midst and read
FLAN OF HAGEY ouuKoi.. tho lnw to thcm, tho pcoplc
closing about him in circles
as near as they could get. The church-yards were also round,
and the stones enclosing graves and mounds were generally
laid iu circles. These walls are still called ring -Avails, al
though they now are square. When high-mass was held, the
people gathered to the church from long distances ; tradesmen
also came thither with the intention of selling their wares ;
they had their booths erected outside of the ring-wall, which
Avas called Bodgardsmiir (Boothyard-Avall). Among churches
of circular shape there is now left only Dimbo, in Vestergot
land ; but existing foundations and remnants of others show
that they formerly Avere common.

^.ZV^ ANCIENT ESTATE.

407

About twenty miles south of Kalmar is the estate of Viir-
nanas, which was in ancient times the seat of a jarl; later it
belonged to Gustaf Wasa, and afterAA'ards to Axel Oxenstjerna,
the chancellor of Gustavus Adolphus : at present it is owned

VOXTORP OHUROH AND BELFEY.

by the family of Mannerskantz. There is a fine avenue of
trees, about two miles long, leading to the sea. Frora a thick
forest of pines and firs we emerged into a picturesque rolling
country, and a few miles beyond entered the haralet of Soder-
§,kra. On approaching Blekinge, the soil becoraes poorer and
more sandy, erratic boulders are numerous, and the fine trees
begin to disappear.

408 IHE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN,

CHAPTER XXXVI.
The Island of Oland.— The Church of Albbke.— Kelics of Ancient Times.- The
Village of Borgholm. — Imposing Ruins of Borgholm Castle. — Karl Gustaf. — The
Queen's Farm. — Proud Karin. — Celebrating the Advent of Spring. — Song wel
coming the Spring.
At a short distance from the Swedish coast, near the prov
ince of Sm&land, is an island called Oland, about eighty railes
long and six to ten miles broad, which, with the main -land,
forms a beautiful sound. A ridge with wooded slopes runs
along its western shore, upon whose summit are found a great
number of windmills, which add to the picturesqueness of the
scene. The ridge, like the island, is of limestone, and this in
the south rests on a stratum of Silurian alum slate. Often the
red limestone comes to the surface, and there the soil is barren.
Besides a horae supply for a population of 40,000 inhabitants,
the island exports from 300,000 to 350,000 bushels of grain,
principally wheat, every year ; is rich in apples, pears, etc., and
has good hunting-grounds ; it exports also lime and limestone.
Formerly it was celebrated for a breed of ponies, now extinct,
sraaller than those of Shetland ; and it was the favorite hunt
ing resort of the Swedish king, Karl Gustaf. Few of its once
superb forests of oak now remain. Some of its churches are
very ancient, being of the so-called klofsadels form (saddle
shape). One of these is that of Alboke. A passage from the
roof connects the two towers, in one of which are rooms
with the open primitive fireplace, with no chimney for the
escape of smoke. In old Catholic times, when the Church
owned immense tracts of land, Oland belonged to the con
vents of Vadstena and Alvastra.
The island is rich in antiquities. Several ship-forms of up
raised stone are models of the vessels of the Vikings, or per
haps of raore ancient inhabitants ; there are also many graves.

IHE RUINS OF BORGHOLM CASTLE, 409
and numerous valuable finds, containing bronze and gold or
naments of the Roraan period, sorae of which have been raen
tioned in the chapter devoted to this subject. Ruins of old
castles are found, the most reraarkable of which is Ismans-
torp, which is raentioned in Vol. I. It is certain that Vikings
dwelt on this island.
The village and port of Borgholra, having a population of
800, is the most important place on the island of Oland. En
tering the harbor, we were soon moored along-side a jetty,
Avhich also acted as a breakwater. There were no vessels;
the place was quiet, and only a few persons were walking in
the broad streets, in which grass was growing. The old church
rose above the surrounding buildings. The houses appeared
comfortable, and now and then a dame or damsel looked out
to see what strangers were passing by. Near the village, on
the brink of a ridge clad with bush -trees sloping rather
abruptly to the sea, and where the liraestone comes to the
surface supporting a few stunted oaks, rise the ruins of tbe
castle of Borgholm. The square court -yard is fianked by
dark walls pierced with nuraerous windows to the third story,
still intact ; but its chambers are roofless. It is a sad picture
of the past. This great place once resounded with the hum
of life — mighty men and beautiful women dwelt in its noAv
deserted and crumbling remains. The ruins consist of two
distinct parts. The old castle is mentioned as early as 1280,
and the foundations are still extant. About the year 1312
it was occupied by Duke Waldemar of Sweden and his con
sort, Ingeborj,' of Norway, daughter of King Erik (priest-hater),
who married Isabel, the sister of the Scottish hero, Robert
Bruce. The present castle was built by King Johan, who
reigned 1568-1592, It was several times besieged and taken
by the Danes — the last tirae in 1612 — and its possession was
often an object of contention between Sweden and Denraark.
Upon the walls and windows overhanging trees were grow
ing, giving to the majestic pile an aspect of desolation and
silence broken only by the croak of the ravens nestling there.
The view from the upper part was flue, and the beautiful day
made the ruins less gloomy.

410 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
Between the village and the castle was the queen's farm. It
was a combination of garden and park ; the walks were lined
with high hedges, formed of trees so trimraed that they re-
serabled walls. Birds were hiding in the thick foliage, espe
cially nightingales ; although we were in latitude 56° 62', they
were in every bush, aud the air was filled with their melodies
in the twilight and moonlight,
Borgholm was the favorite residence of Karl Gustaf, eld
est son of Johan Casimir, the Duke of Pfalz-Zweibriick, and
Catherina, daughter «f Charles IX. He was at oue time en
gaged to be married to his cousin Kristina, the only child of
Gustavus Adolphus; but when she abandoned her intention
of marrying, she selected him as her successor to the throne.
Before his accession to the crown he spent most of his time
at this castle, which during his residence attained the height
of its glory. Karl Gustaf loved Oland, which at that time was
clad with oak forests filled Avith deer ; and at his coronation
Oland ale was served, as a compliraent to his beloved island.
There is an old song which still lives in the raeraory of
the people in the neighborhood of Ismanstorp and LInglote.
There formerly lived a famous man, whose fair daughter was
called "Proud Karin." She once went out with her maids —
fourteen young girls, but she the fairest of them all — to en
joy themselves with songs and plays. Suddenly there came
iu from the sea a ship carrying a son of the Danish king.
He went ashore and listened to the voice of Karin, which
seemed to him like the music of a golden harp; but when
he came into the grove he was still more charmed by her
beauty. He invited her to drink with him (the manner of
courtship of those times), and won her assent and good-will.
He then took her in his arms, carried her on board his ship,
and sailed aAA'ay.
Proud Karin was Jarl Asbjorn's daughter, who was married
to Harald, son of the Danish king, Sven Estridson, a nephew
of Canute the Great. Harald, against tbe last wish of his fa
ther, by the cunning and power of his father-in-law, Asbjorn,
excluded his brother Canute from the kingdom, Avho there
upon fied to the court of the SAvedish king. Hallstan, and re-

THE KILLING OF CANUTE, 411
mained there in peace until the death of his brother Harald in
1080. Canute had raany friends iu Sweden and Scania, but
was not liked by the Danes. When he carae to reign in Den
mark he fostered Christianity in every way ; but the worldly
power and distinction he gave to the clergy, calling them into
his councils in preference to jarls and others of high rank,
awakened against him the enraity of the raost powerful raen
of his kingdora. This, however, would not have caused him
much trouble, for the people in general were easily persuaded
that it was right that the servants of God, and those who took
care of souls, ought in worldly raatters to be treated with
more regard than the king's servants and those who had
charge simply of the material affairs of the country; but
when he imposed tithes, and collected them with great severi
ty, then the peasants arose, and a rebellion was soon iu full
blast. The king retired to Odense, whither Jarl Asbjorn
went, assuring him of his friendship. Canute did not sus
pect any wrong, and easily agreed that Asbjorn should go
to the rebels and sue for peace; but no sooner had he met
them than he urged an attack on the king at once, as the lat
ter had only a sraall force : which they did. Asbjorn led the
forces, and carae upon the king as he was praying at the al
tar of St. Alban's Church, where he killed hira. Asbjorn had
red hair, and since that tirae red hair is in the North consid
ered indicative of a treacherous mind.
One of the ancient customs preserved in some parts of Swe
den is that of welcoming the advent of spring. The evening
before the first of May is called Valborg Mass-eve : in mediseval
times mass was celebrated. Even before darkness has come, in
many districts lads of neighboring farms are seen engaged in
collecting material for bonfires, and to stack it on the top of
the highest and nearest hill ; generally each haralet has its sep
arate fire, and they vie with each other in having the brightest ;
often from an eminence may be seen at once twenty or thirty
of these blazing piles. The old folks remain at home, and pay
special attention to the number of fires — if it is odd or even,
if the sparks fly northward or southward : if odd, with a north
wind, the spring will be cold ; with a southern one it will be

412 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
Avarm. When the weU-fed flames are at the highest, a ring
is formed by the young men and women ; or, if the crowd
is large, two or three, and the slang polka, a very pretty and
graceful dance, which varies according to the different prov
inces, is enjoyed by those who participate in the frolic ; the
dancing is accompanied by singing,
So did we go out on Valborg Mass-eve
For to dance ;
So did we upon the highest mountain go.
Oh hey ! Let us be merry.
I have played on Valborg Mass-eve,
Tralle-ralle-ralle-rej ;
Out did I go with both hat and gloves,
Hey tralle-ralle-ralle-rej.
Hey, how merry it is to dance !
We as others.
We all join in a ring,
We all dance around ;
The fire burns on the rock.
Hey, bow merry it is to dance !

Another spring custom is also observed in the South, though
fast disappearing. Tbe young raen of the hamlets assemble on
Valborg Mass-eve at dusk, and go around among the farms car
rying birch-twigs with newly opened leaA^es, and sing the May
song before every door ; Avhereupon, in case they raeet with a
good reception, the}' put tAvigs over the porch. Baskets are
also brought along, in which are collected the gifts received,
consisting mostly of a liberal supply of eggs; these are used
at a feast Avhicli takes place on Whit-Sunday, when, between
plays and dances, abundance of pancakes aud other good things
are served.
The May song is as follows :
Good evening, if home ye are.
May is welcome !
Excuse us if we wake you up.
Summer is sweet fur young folks.

MAY SONGS. 413
Xow we come to your farra,
May is welcome !
And ask if you will let us sing.
Summer is sweet for young folks.
For now we carry May into hamlet.
May is welcome !
And praise it with songs new.
Sumraer is sweet for young folks.
The little lark's sweet song.
May is welcome !
Goes up to the skies with May song.
Be glad now for such a sweet summer.
For winter's constraint now has left the land,
May is welcome !
For leaves and grass now are green.
Be glad now for such a sweet suramer.
Welcome is the month of May,
May is welcome !
God bless this suramer raild !
Be glad now for such a sweet sumraer.
Give us an abundant year.
May is welcome I
Guard both house and farm.
Be glad now for such a sweet sumraer.
Hop-vines yield on the poles.
May is welcorae !
Then bitter worrawood in the meadows.
Be glad now for such a sweet summer.
Give milk and cheese so sweet.
May is welcome !
Buckweat also for mush.
Be glad now for such a sweet summer.
Give the beeswax and honey sweet.
May is welcome I
For healing, food, and candles, and mead.
Be glad now for such a sweet summer.

414 THE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN.
Let the hen lay eggs on plates.
May is welcome !
For pancakes and egg-cakes.
Be glad now for such a sweet summer.
Now we put sprigs on your porch,
May is welcome !
That you can see to-morrow by day.
Be glad now for such a sweet summer.
Good-night, and thanks to you,
May is welcorae I
For the gift was very good.
Be glad now for such a sweet summer.
In case the song should not aAvaken any attention in the
party for whora it is intended, the f olloAving end verse is sung :
Then lie and lie, thou lazy ox.
Till crows and ravens shall drive thee out I
This festival is a remnant of tbe religion of the Scandina
vians in heathen times. On that day it was the custom to
sacrifice children on the top of the stendosar or cromlech
(A\'hicb is represented in Vol, I.~), and the people danced until
the sun rose.

THE PROVINCE OF BLEKINGE, 415

CHAPTER XXXVII.
The Province of Blekinge. — Opening the Road-gates. — Love for Flowers. — Clean
Cottages. — The Sin of wasting Bread. — The Horror of Perjury. — Women working
in the Fields. — The Custom of Betrothal. — A Happy Population. — The Dance of
the Elves. — A Beautiful Vision. — About the Elves. — A Charming Night. — The
Ball of the Trees. — A Happy Maiden. — Songs. — Not so Primitive a People. —
Karlskrona. — The Swedish Navy. — The Nettraby River.
Feom Sm§,land I entered Blekinge, one of Sweden's raost
picturesque provinces, celebrated all over the country for the
beauty of its woraen. Its landscape scenes are very diversi
fied ; here the soil is barren and stony ; there the country be
comes fruitful, and presents rural scenery of great loveliness.
Though the province is not raore than seventy railes in length
and about twenty-five railes in its greatest breadth, more than
three hundred lakes and lakelets are scattered over its surface.
Luxuriant woods and groves greet the eye everywhere ; colos
sal oaks, with gigantic spreading branches, which are among
the largest in Sweden, and the finest in Europe for grace and
beauty, and magnificent beech-trees, excite the astonishment of
the stranger.
The coast makes a sudden sweep, running east and west,
and its shores are indented by numerous bays, and lined with
superb trees growing even to the edge of the sea. Here and
there are hamlets or farms, with tiled and thatch-roofed houses
painted red.
In some districts the farms are large ; often the roads lead
ing to the towns are lined with trees, and the fields protected
by stone walls, while others are ditched instead of being fenced.
Now and then on a bare granite hill or on some charming
spot stands the windmill, the sails of which move briskly to
grind the grain. The house of the railler is always close at

416

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

hand, and there is generally a faithful dog watching while the
farmers with their carts are waiting for their grist.
Here, as in Dalecarlia, of which we have spoken, and other
places, the roads are often barred by a fence to keep the cattle
Avithin bounds, and children are looking for travellers. As
soon as one makes his appearance there is a general scramble,
each anxious to be the first to open the gate, and earn the cop
pers which they hope to receive.

OPENING THE GATE.

There is perhaps no province where the love of fiowers is
greater than in Blekinge. In suraraer the garden surrounding
even the poorest house is usually gorgeous with bright col
ors ; while in raany a window, through snowy muslin curtains,
can be seen an array of plants loaded with blossoms, belonging
to the female raerabers of tbe family. It is considered a great
compliment when one of these flowers is given to a friend.
The poorest of the people know how to make their rooms
cheerful with Nature's bounties. Under glass tumblers shoots
or cuttings are raised, which, when large enough, are trans
planted with great care.
On one of the latter days of June I was jolting on my way
towards the road that skirts the shores of the Baltic on the

GOOD HABITS OF IHE PEOPLE. 417
eastern part of the province. My horse was going slowly, for
the day was warm ; many of the wild flowers were drooping
under the poAverful rays of the sun. The poppies displayed
their gorgeous tints among the tall, waving fields of rye
and wheat in bloom, and the bright blue of the Centaurea
cyanus was beautiful. The air was perfuraed with the fra
grance of the red and white clover; farm-houses were scat
tered about; cows and horses were grazing in the fields, with
children watching thera. Now and then I raet peculiar carts
draAvn by two oxen, or long karra, on their way to a farm
or a hamlet.
The majority even of the humblest cottages are spotlessly
clean, for the peasants of Central and Southern Sweden are
neat ; the floors by their whiteness attract the attention of the
stranger. Everything is in place, and in summer wild flowers
are displayed in cups and saucers to create a cheerful aspect.
Old matrons and blooming girls are spinning, weaving, knit
ting, or doing needle-work; and bareheaded and barefooted,
blue-eyed and flaxen-haired, children are playing around their
humble home, their rosy cheeks and happy faces reminding one
very forcibly that wealth is not essential to bring health and
content. As I was going along I saw a woraan put carefully
on a stone a piece of bread which she had been eating ; the
Swede or Norwegian never throws bread on the ground, but,
when on the road, after they have satisfied their hunger, they
lay the remainder carefully on a spot where the passer-b}^,
if hungry, may find and eat it. They think it sinful to cast
away the gift of God, I have even seen persons when a piece
of bread fell down pick it up and kiss it. Farther on I met
a strapping fellow of twenty-two years of age, with a happy
face, who was coming from the parsonage with a paper in his
hand which he showed me with great pride.
Every Swede, male or female, leaving his village or city for
some other part of the country, is obliged by law to have a
certificate of character, called prestbetyg (clergyman's certifi
cate). This document contains the name of the person as num
bered on the register of the parish church, his vocation, date
of birth, whether married or single, if vaccinated, and his
VOL. II, 2 E

418 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
qualifications in reading and writing. There are three degrees
or classes in education, and the class to which each belongs
is indicated in the certificate, as is also the rank in Christian
knowledge — whether the individual has attended the husfor-
hor, a raeeting where all the people of a parish are examined
in Scripture once a year by the pastor, whether confirmed
or not, and has attended comraunion, and the general moral
character. If one has been in prison, or had an illegitimate
child, it is so stated.
Among the custoras of the Swedes, showing their horror of
perjury, is the varjem§,lsed, or " oath of defence." When the
evidence against an accused person is insufficient to convict,
though there is a strong presumption of guilt, the judge gives
him a chance to clear himself by the above oath. Before this
can be taken, however, he is sent to his pastor, who solemnly
instructs him on the nature and responsibility of an oath, and
Avho gives him a certificate that he has been thus instructed,
which he must produce to the court before he can be sworn.
This may be required in cases where there is only one witness,
or one unworthy of belief, or where witnesses contradict each
other. Many women were busy in the fields, weeding potatoes,
beets, turnips, and carrots. The meadows were being mown,
and the cut -grass filled the atmosphere with its fragrance.
The maidens were superb specimens of womanhood, the em
bodiment of health and strength, and often Avere beautiful,
with that exquisite SAvedish complexion already described, and
which, strange as it raay appear, is not burned by the sun.
In consequence of the warmth, they wore only their white
linen chemises, made fast with a scarf around the waist, and a
picturesque red head-dress. Their bare legs were as white
as milk, and they moved gracefully about, in simple uncon
sciousness of their odd attire, as they busily raked the hay.
A gay crowd of damsels and lads in their holiday dress
were on their way to a neighboring farm, where a feast given
in honor of a betrothal was to take place. A betrothal in
Scandinavia is celebrated in a festive manner. In tbe coun
try districts the engaged couple often go before the clergy-

A BETROTHAL.

419

man, who, in presence of the respective families, says : " Before
God the All-knowing, and in presence of these witnesses, I ask
thee if thou wilt have him (or her) for thy betrothed ?" After
an affirmative answer from both, rings are exchanged as a
pledge ; these are worn on the ring-finger of the left hand.

BLEKINGE MAIDEN RAKING HAY.

The custom of going before the parson is dying out. In the
cities, or among the educated classes, after a gentleman and a
lady have become engaged, both their names are written on a
single visiting card and sent to all their acquaintances, this
being a notice of the betrothal; it is also published in the
newspapers. The lady, after her engagement is announced, is
allowed to go alone with her affianced, and they are often seen
° 2 B 2

420 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
together without their families at balls or places of amusement.
But even in Scandinavia engagements are sometimes broken.
Nothing but a plain gold ring is given, even among the most
wealthy. The wedding-token is of the sarae character. When
a woman has a family she wears three rings as a mark of dis
tinction, of which many feel very proud, though this last fash
ion is going somewhat into disuse. It is only in the country
that weddings are interesting, for in the cities the ceremony is
the same as in other lands.
On Sunday afternoons, in every haralet, on the grass un
der the trees were groups of peasants — hard-working men
during the week — quietly amusing themselves ; fiddlers were
playing while the people were dancing, and all were in holiday
attire, I thought that in no country had I met Avith a more
happy and contented population.
One evening after sunset the singular condensed vapor call
ed by the peasants Elf dans — a "dance of the elves" — a soft
raist, not heavy like a fog, but white and transparent, hung
over the plain, forming a sort of veil through which the mead
ows, fields, and groves were visible in shadowy outlines. It
was like a fairy cloud, making the whole landscape a scene
of perfect loveliness ; I could see through it every flower and
every blade of grass. People who were working in the flelds
looked like phantoms, and, though they were near, appeared to
be far away. The white veil seemed to form a stratum only
ten or twelve feet in height, apparently hanging in the air,
gradually thickening towards the ground. We had emerged
from this one Avhen I drove into another precisely like it, and
Avas startled by a new phase of the phenomenon. Fairy-like flg-
ures were apparently intent upon preventing my farther prog
ress. The sight seemed supernatural but lovely. Tet these
angels were only a group of flaxen-haired raaidens partly shad
owed by the raist ; I saw only their heads and shoulders as in
a haze, their bodies being wholly hidden by the thick lower
strata. I felt like apostrophizing them : " Are you the daughters
of Blekinge, so famed in Sweden for their beauty, or are you
their spirits ?" My horse stopped, and I said, " Beautiful maid
ens! are you the Scandinavian valkyrics who travel through

THE DANCE OF THE ELVES. From ak original drawing by G. E. Fisohee.

ABOUT THE ELVES. 421
the air, or their spirits flying before me ?" but no answer came.
The heads drew nearer and nearer, when suddenly on the oth
er side of the road I saAV other forms advancing. It seemed
as if I were in another world ; the whole was like a vision ; I
might have fancied myself in space, surrounded by the disem
bodied. Such scenes are often observed in some districts of Sweden
in summer.* These phenomena are caused by the sudden con
tact of cold air with the warm surface of the earth, and the
transparency is occasioned by the dryness of the atmosphere.
Farther on a gentle zephyr came, and the vapor took a thou
sand fantastic shapes, which at tiraes seemed to represent hu-
man figures, and " the dance of the elves" began. In old rimes
the people said that this dance always took place over the
spots Avhere good people had been buried, and where their
spirits dwelt.
The elves were gentle :b.eings — the friends and assistants of
the gods. They were divided into two classes — the light, or
elves proper, which dwelt above-ground in Alfhei7ii (elves'
homes), and were fairer than the sun, and the dark elves, or
dwarfs, which lived underground, beneath stones or in raoun
tain caves, and were blacker than pitch. The former were
held in such esteem that offerings were made to them as to
the gods. The dwarfs could not bear daylight, and during the
day hid in their holes : none could raake such arras and orna
ments as they did, for they were the finest smiths in the Avorld,
and as such continually executed work for the deities. These
spirits, whose narae is derived frora tbe beautiful clear rivers,
are the forces of nature Avhich work for the good of mankind,
either above or under ground — in tbe plant life that spreads
over fertile plains, or the precious Avealth of the mines. It is,
however, natural that the light-winged, beautiful elves stood
nearer to the empire of the gods than the heavy, clumsy, and
ugly dwarfs ; the popular tales have also preserved the dis
tinction between them.

* There is a painting in the royal palace in Stockholm which portrays the fairy
like scene with marked effect.

422 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGUI SUN.
The elves are well-known under the names of Ellefolh or
Elfvefolk (elve people), the small beings who dwell on the elf-
mounds. The elf-maiden is extremely beautiful, like a snow-
white lily ; her voice is silver-toned, and no one can withstand
her charms and her speech. She sometimes glides with the
sun's rays through an opening in a house, but she raay disap
pear very suddenly ; she is not to be depended on — often in
fatuating the mind of youth \rith love; but when he tries to
erabrace her, she becomes an empty form or a tree. One must
be careful not to sleep by an elf -mound ; but happy is he who
is privileged to hear their beautiful harps and songs on a sum
mer eve, to watch them dance in the moonlight, aud to see
thera, swan-like, sporting or bathing iu the waters.
The dwarfs of the sagas were small and ill-shaped, delight
ing to deceive human beings, and steal from them things they
like. They did, however, show gratitude; and when their
women at childbirth asked their earthly sisters for help, they
often gave the latter great treasures, for in their caves they
possessed immense riches. On Yule -eve the stones which
closed the mouth of their abodes were raised, as if by magic,
upon four glowing pillars, and glimpses of their sumptuous
horaes appeared within ; one was then careful not to enter, for
it was very difficult to return. It was especially raaidens they
wished, and those whom they had enticed were called " moun
tain-taken." Gradually the twilight became very dim; but far away
towards the north the pale glow frora the sun shone like the
light of day fading away high up in the heavens. The night
was so beautiful that I kept travelling. The aspens {Populus
tremula) were scattered here and there in groves, and, as I
gazed, there seeraed to corae a carnival of joy araong thera ;
their leaves quivered and danced like merry maids, as the
breeze from the hills touched and kissed them on its journey to
an adjacent lake. This was the ball of the trees ; the blue can
opy of heaven was their banqueting-hall ; the thousand stars
were the lights ; the murmur of the Avind araong the branches
Avas the music ; the wild flowers scattered in the meadows were
the spectators, and the still night presided over all.

THE BALL OF THE TREES,— FOLK-SONGS, 423
The dim outlines of an old mansion rose in the distance
like a spectral castle, while oaks near by looked on as silent
witnesses of the past and the present. The ball of the trees
drcAV towards its close ; the lights gradually disappeared, and
the rustling of the leaves becarae fainter and fainter, for tbe
wind was dying away Avith the expiring night. Darkness
slowly merged into the tAvilight of morning, and the birds
began to sing as harbingers of the coming day ; then clouds
took on a golden hue, which was reflected in the lake ; tbe
floAvers raised their heads refreshed, after the heat of the pre
ceding afternoon. Then the great orb rose full of majesty
and glory above the hills, aud in the sunlight the dew-drops
shone like precious gems. One by one the tillers of the soil
appeared in the fields ; the songs of the lads and maidens, the
hum of insects, the warbling of birds, the lowing of the cows,
and the neighing of the horses, were mingled together. An
other morn was come, and nature took on new life, and only
as one can behold it in the North,
Approaching a cheerful little house with a flower-garden in
front, I was startled by a sweet voice, fresh and clear ; I stood
still, and beheld, unseen, a beautiful girl doing her morning
work. I listened with delight to her song, as f oIIoavs :
When fourteen years I was, I believe,
A little girl so merry and so gay,
No woe I ever heard of.
None either thought upon. Tra, la, la, la.
Indeed, when seventeen I became.
The sun shone, the cuckoo sang, and it was spring ;
All was fair, the earth green, the heavens blue,
But I, however, was wanting something.
Tra, la, la, la.
Yes, now it is no more as it was —
Sometimes I am so sad, sometimes so merry,
Soraetiraes I am so white, sometimes so red,
And I want neither to live nor die.
Tra, la, la, la.
This was followed by another old folk- song full of senti
ment:

424 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
THE BRIDE'S QUESTION.
Lovest thou for beauty's sake ?
Love me not then !
Love the sun ! See, in gold
Luxuriously do her curls glow in the blue.
Lovest thou for my youth's sake ?
Love me not then !
Love the spring ! It is full
Always of fresh roses. Mine will soon vanish.
Lovest thou for treasures' sake ?
Love me not then !
Love the Sea-queen ! Pearls, gold.
Forests of corals does she offer thee.
Lovest thou for love's own sake ?
Oh, do then love me !
Love have I. Faithfully
It has long been, and wiU eternally be thine.
She had hardly finished this song when she began another
folk-song of Southern Sweden.
LITEN KARIN (LITTLE KARIN).
And little Karin served
On the young king's farm ;
She shone as a star
Among the gentle maidens all.
She shone as a star
All among the maidens small,
And the young king spake
To little Karin thus :
"And hear thou, little Karin !
Say, wilt thou be mine ?
The gray horse and the golden saddle,
Them I will give thee."
" The gray horse and the golden saddle.
Them I do not suit.
Give them to thy young queen ;
Let rae with honor go."

LITTLE KARIN SONG. 425
"And hear thou, little Karin !
Say, wilt thou be mine ?
My red gold crown,
That I wUl give thee."
" Thy red golden crown.
That I do not suit.
Give that to thy young queen,
And let me with honor go."
''And hear thou, little Karin !
Say, wilt thou be mine ?
Half my kingdom.
That I will give thee."
" Half thy kingdom.
That I do not suit.
Give that to thy young queen,
And let me with honor go."
" And hear thou, little Karin I
Wilt thou not be mine ?
Then I will have thee put
Into the spiked barrel."
"And wilt thou have me put
Into the spiked barrel ?
God's little angels, they will see
That I am innocent."
They put little Karin
Into the spiked barrel.
And the pages of the king
Then rolled it around.
Then there came from the heavens
Two white doves down ;
They took little Karin,
And instantly they were three.
Then came two black ravens
Up there from hell ;
They took the young king.
And instantly they were three.

Little Karin was followed by another song :

426 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

TIIE ALUNDA SONG.
My boy he lives in Alunda hamlet,
Alo — Alunda, Alundalej I
Eyes has he blue as heaven's clear sky.
Alunda — lunda, Alo.
Goes with his scythe light as a wind,
Alo — Alunda, Alundalej !
Little burnt by the sun, but fresh and red on his cheek.
Alunda — lunda, Alo.
Just he rode his horses to pasture,
Alo — Alunda, Alundalej I
Never saw I colt better tended in stall.
Alunda — lunda, Alo.
He goes in to dance — modest and shy,
Alo — Alunda, Alundalej !
Looks he at a girl, it is just done on the sly.
Alunda — ^lunda, Alo.
Whit-Sunday-eve came he to me,
Alo — Alunda, Alundalej !
" Rosa little, hear what I will say to thee !"
Alunda — lunda, Alo.
" Rosa, my Rosa, lovest thou me ?"
" Oh no !" Alunda, Alundalej I
"Thou will get sorae one else — meet thy fate so quiet!"
Alunda — lunda, Alo.
So he carae to me on midsummer-eve,
Alo — Alunda, Alundalej !
Went with me in the dance, light, swift, and quick.
Alunda — lunda, Alo.
Girls, only hush ! but own it I will,
Alo — Alunda, Alundalej !
How it was, but a kiss he forced upon me.
Alunda — lunda, Alo.
" Rosa," ho said, " shall I die of grief ?"
" Oh no !" Alunda, Alundalej !
"Here thou hast my hand, I take back what I said."
Alunda — lunda, Alo.

A DARK DEED, 427
Evidently the singer's repertoire was extensive, and she
loved both lively and sentimental lays. Suddenly she sang

again High up in the heavens
There sit little stars ;
"fhe friend I loved
I can never get.
Oh! oh! oh! oh!
He fell into my mind —
That I cannot help ;
He swore to be to me true
Unto the bleak death.
Oh! oh! oh! oh!
And then he went away from me.
And soon I got another ;
I got the one I did not want,
And Sorrow was his name.
Oh! oh! oh! oh!
Here the maiden stopped, for she had seen me listening, and
her cheeks flushed. Bowing to her, I continued on my Avay.
On a warm afternoon I neared Karlskrona, the chief town
in Blekinge ; the wind was high, and the dust flew in thick
clouds, as it had not rained for many a day. The drive was
dreary, the soil in many places poor and stony, and trees
scarce. At Jerajo a tomb was pointed out to me as that of
the former sheriff, who, on a dark evening, as he was seated in
the station-room, was shot from the outside in cold blood ; his
assassin escaped in the darkness, and has never been identified,
although the authorities made great efforts to discover him.
The murder was supposed to have been committed for re
venge. The station-keeper was arrested on suspicion, but soon
released, his innocence being established. Approaching the
city of Karlskrona, the country became more pleasant, and the
highways lively.
The people, where there are many small seaports, were not
so good as those inland. The prisons were not empty : they
talked of thieves, and doors were carefully locked : two or
three times I had detected attempts at overcharging; and on

428 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
my way from Kalmar I saw a revolver hanging by the bed
side of a landlord, and drinking had become a vice. Karls
krona (lat. 56° 10') is a naval station, the most important of
Sweden, and has a population of 18,000, The town is built
on several islands, the largest of which is Trosso, connected
by floating and other bridges, the one communicating with
the main-land being of stone. The streets are very broad and
regular; the dwelling-houses are large, and there are raany
squares, and a shaded garden or park, called Hogland, crowd
ed every afternoon. Along the quays were boats laden with
vegetables and fruits from the main -land, and in the early
raorning Avitli fish. One is soon reminded of the railitary ira
portance of the town from its geographical position : barracks,
fortifications, dismantled men-of-war, piles of cannon-balls, etc.,
give a warlike appearance to the place. Numerous islands
protect the approaches to the harbor, which are strongly forti
fied. The Swedish navy is recruited like the army, by enlistment.
Certain estates and hamlets are obliged to furnish a stated
number of men for the service ; and these sailors, when on
duty, are treated like the soldiers, and while ashore are per
raitted to cultivate their little farms. - There are no conscrip
tions, and the regular sailors voluntarily engage themselves.
One branch of the service is that to which is assigned the de
fence of the coast lakes. The sailors, while on shore, are kept
under strict discipline. They live here in large, clean, and
well-ventilated barracks. There is a library, accessible to all.
Among the fine estates of the suburbs is Johannishus, fa
mous for its oak-trees. At a short distance the little Nettraby
empties into the Baltic. Small steamers ascend the stream
several times a day. The shores are lined by meadows, fields,
and groves ; the sail is sometimes under a perfect canopy of
branches overhanging the water. Steam navigation is stopped
by a stone bridge, below which, on the river brink, is the an
cient parish church of Nettraby, with its shaded gravej^ard
and old tombs. The grand trees, grassy banks, aud beautiful
lilies floating on the water added to the beauty of the place,
while the hum of human voices contrasted with the stillness

THE SURROUNDINGS OF KARLSKRONA. 429
of the scene. The surrounding country is so charraing that
oue might fancy himself driving in a park. About raidway
between Karlskrona and the seaport of Karlshamn is the cele
brated Spa of Ronneby, situated a distance of about fifteen
miles frora Karlskrona. The high-road thence traverses a fruit
ful country ; some of the views are exquisitely beautiful, but
very few large farms are raet. Most of the dwelling-houses
are small, and contrast greatly with the buildings found in
the northern provinces.

430 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGUI SUN,

CHAPTER XXXVIII,
The Village of Roimeby. — ^A Celebrated Spa. — Life of the Patients at the Spring. —
The Resident Physician. — A Mud-bath. — A Committee of Amusements. — Hotel
or Club Fare. — Djupadal.^The Manufacture of Wood Pulp.^A Strange Yearly
Custom of Ronneby.— Drunkenness on Saturdays. — ^A Legend of Two Giants. —
A Viking Burial-ground. — Karlshamn.— Funeral Ceremonies. — ^Family Notices
of the Death of Relatives. — A Place where People killed themselves in Viking
Days. — Valsjo. — A Delightful Retreat.^-Fine Beech-trees. — A Lovely Ramble. —
A Family Collation. — Leave Valsjo.
RoNNEBT, in lat. 56° 13', has a population of about 1600 ;
and frora its protected situation in a fertile valley and prox
imity to the sea enjoys a raild climate, which in summer is
quite warra. This village is celebrated for its mineral springs.
The waters are especially beneficial iu anaemia, scrofula, chron
ic and intermittent fevers, rheumatism, diseases of the diges
tive and nervous systems, when accompanied by general or
local weakness. The mud-baths have been found especially
advantageous in rheumatism, and are very much frequented.
The charge for each patient of the first class is 10 kronor,
which includes contributions for the chaplain, service of
water, music, and the poor. The fee to the doctor is optional.
Patients of the second class pay 4.50 kronor to the establish
ment and 2 kronor to tbe doctor, and, when circurastances
make it necessary, these charges are lessened to 2.50 kronor
and 1 kronor respectively.
The village is about three miles from the sea, on the banks
of the Ronneby River. Above the bridge navigation is in
terrupted by a fall, while beloAv a small steamer goes as far as
the Baltic, so that visitors can enjoy the sea-bathing or boating.
The same steamer takes the people to tbe springs and back
every raorning,
Tlie old church well deserves a visit. The paintings are

IHE SPA OF RONNEBY, 431
odd, and sometimes excite a smile. The candlesticks, with
double-headed eagles, are probably spoils of the Thirty Years'
War, The place was burned in 1864 or 1865, and has been com
pletely rebuilt since. It would require a large hotel to accom
modate the travellers who corae to the springs. Patients
hoard in the different houses; and in the height of the sea
son, unless lodgings are secured in advance, one may not find
accommodations. The cost of living is three to four kronor
per day. Every one here retires early, and at five in the morn
ing the town is full of people on their way to the springs.
The grounds are pleasant, and the trees furnish a grateful
protection from the sun. Around the spring the visitors await
patiently their turn to drink the water, A band of six mu
sicians plays lively airs. At eight o'clock the rausic ceases,
the crowds draw together, and the pastor of Ronneby offers
thanks to the Almighty for his goodness, beseeching him to
bless those who have come in search of health. No one thinks
of leaving the spring before this act of devotion. This custora
prevails at all the Swedish spas.
The Swedes are very methodical when they go to a spa in
search of health. The resident physician was on the ground
from six to eight o'clock, and was surrounded by those who
wished to consult him. The doctor had a sraile and a pleasant
word for every patient, and, however foolish their questions or
insiguificant their ailments, exarained into their cases. He
kept a register of the invalids. The usual duration of the
treatment was from three to four weeks. In one part of the
grounds there was a hospital for the poor, and those. who could
not afford to pay drank the water and procured advice with
out charge, the doctor receiving a given sura frora the parish
for this duty. The araounts paid by patients are devoted to
the support of the hospital, the iraproveraent of the grounds
and buildings, and of the bathing establishment ; but the last
was still burdened with a debt at the time of my visit.
The doctor was also the health officer of the parish or dis
trict, which contained a population of 13,000. He had been in
office for seven years, but had lately been proraoted to that

432 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN,
position in the province of Blekinge; his duty being to trav.
el, to attend to sanitary precautions, and to hold autopsies.
The governor of the province and five leading citizens were
charged with the direction. When a vacancy occurs in the
health department the medical college in Stockholm is in
forraed of the fact. The narae of a doctor whom the local
authorities would like to see appointed is called for, and the
person chosen is generally accepted. There is a health officer
for each province, besides one for each parish or district, all of
whom have to attend to the poor gratuitously and watch over
the health of the people, and take precautions necessary to
avoid the spread of epidemic diseases.
For curiosity's sake I took a mud-bath. An old woman was
in attendance, who smeared and rubbed my body with mud,
and afterAV'ards with a soft brush ; after being washed I re
ceived a cold douche, producing a delightful sensation ; final
ly I was enveloped in a warm linen wrapper, and over this a
thick blanket, and stretched myself on a sofa to rest. The
bath caused a temporary prickly sensation in the skin, but the
after effect was pleasant. This water is so strongly impreg
nated with iron that it is only used in baths, and is heated to
92° Fahrenheit. In this quiet watering-place there was no
show, and no rivalry in dress. There was a committee of
amusements, composed of three ladies and three gentleraen,
who every day chose a spot where coffee was served, and at
the foot of the stairway to the springs the name of the place
selected was displayed upon a placard. The servants preceded
the guests, and when the company had been gathered together
innocent games and plays were indulged in. No Swedish
punch, spirits, or wine was allowed to be sold ou the spot cho
sen, and no gambling was perraitted.
In the square of the village rausic was played until 9 p.m.,
and up to that time the place Avas crowded. At 9.30 p.m. every
body was in bed. There was very little driving, the people gen
erally preferring to walk. There was a club, where those who
chose could obtain their meals — a privilege of which nearly all
the guests availed themselves. Three meals were served daily.
The fare Avas siraple but excellent, and calculated to produce

CHEAP FARE, 433
good hygienic effects. The prices at this restaurant were won
derfully cheap— the breakfast costing about 35 ore ; the din
ner, consisting of two dishes with soup, or three dishes with
out soup, 1 krona ; and'the supper about 70 ore. Wines were
not generally used. A good roora could be procured for 1
krona and 50 ore or 2 kronor a day. The doctor presided at
one of the tables— all standing for a moment in a silent and
prayerful attitude before taking their seats. The want of ven
tilation in the restaurant, however, was oppressive to one not
accustomed to a stifling atmosphere. We have already no
ticed the great dislike of the Swedes for fresh air; they seem
to be in constant dread of draughts and rheuraatisra. The
windows were kept closed, and at dinner every opening in the
dining-rooras, which communicated with each other, was shut,
though the weather was exceedingly warm— the thermoraeter
standing at 86° Fahrenheit. If one window remained partly
open by mistake, it was iraraediately closed. The universal
trust in the honesty of people is prevalent here. When one
is ready to depart, he goes to the club and pays his bill, and
not before: nothing would be easier than to leave without
paying. I should think the visitor would be glad to get out
of the place, for its life is certainly very monotonous.
At Djupadal, the country-seat of Baron Wrede, I went to
see one of the mills which had lately sprung up in Sweden
and Norway for the manufacture of the wood-pulp used in
the production of paper. As this invention unfortunately
causes the destruction of millions of young white-pine-trees
every year, the lovers of nature, who dread the demolition of
forests, regard this new industry with alarm. Taken together
with the requisition for timber for raines, the increasing de
mand will eventually destroy the forests, unless a law is made
to restrict the cutting down of the trees of less than a certain
diameter.* In pursuance of an old custom, every year on the first
* The wood used for the manufacture of paper is white pine ; the red pine, on
account of its resinous quality, being unavailable. The logs are broken and ground,
and the mass is passed between heavy rollers until it forras a perfect pulp, which
IS then dried and sent to England, where it is converted into paper.
VOL. II. 2 r

434 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
Sunday in July crowds of country-people make their way to
Ronneby. A large part sleep on the way at different farms.
In the suburbs many groups of raaidens, sheltered under the
trees, were engaged in removing the dust of travel and comb
ing their hair, so that they might make their entrance in a be
coming and tidj' manner ; hundreds arranged their toilets in
this fashion, afterwards putting on their heads silk handker
chiefs Avhich they had carefully protected on the road. More
than 5000 peasants had arrived, and in the church to which
they had flocked there was not even standing-room.
It is considered a kind of betrothal-day : men and girls ar
rived with bunches of flowers ; the people came to meet their
friends : if one of the men saw araong the girls one whora he
wished to raarry, he proposed by offering to the chosen one a
bouquet ; if she accepted it, her act signifled an affirraative ;
but the custora is getting into disuse. Men seen AA'ith flowers
are afraid of ridicule, and this asserably of marriageable per
sons raay be said to be virtually a thing of the past, and is
now only the occasion of a raerry gathering. During the day
long wagons, arched over with branches of birch - trees, Avere
packed with people bent upon a frolic — a custora Avhich re
minded me of the " straw ride " parties comraon in the rural
districts of the United States,
The only unpleasant feature in the quiet life of Ronneby is
the Saturdays, when the peasants and laborers corae to the vil
lage to get their supply of branvin, and drunkenness is preva
lent. The right of granting licenses for the sale of spirituous
liquors is left with the communal councils, which in raost cities
dispose of the privilege to corapanies or individuals at a stated
sura per year, these again subletting this right to retailers.
In some cities, however, companies have been formed consist
ing of some of the most prominent inhabitants, who, Avishing
to diminish the evils of drunkenness, take the sales of spirits
into their own hands, paying for the licenses, and, after get
ting a fair interest — generally six per cent. — turn the surplus
into the city treasury, to be used for the benefit of the poor,
hospital, or other good object. It is forbidden by law to sell
spirits to intoxicated persons or rainors. It bas been found

A LEGEND OF TWO GIANTS. 435
that this systera has been the means of dirainishing intemper
ance to a considerable degree, as the licenses are limited. In
Norway retailers of branvin are not alloAved to sell frora 5
o'clock P.M. on Saturday to Monday, at 8 a.m. : the same regu
lation applies to religious holidays. In Sweden branvin is made
from potatoes and grain, and before coming into the market
must be free of fusel-oil. The yearly consuraption of branvin
per head is in Sweden about three gallons; in Norway, one
and three quarter gallons.
One of the favorite drives or walks is towards Djupadal,
above Avhich the Ronne River rushes through a channel about
120 feet long — in one place only 5 to 6 wide ; the Avails are
smooth, and the Avater 100 feet deep. Below the mill the
river breaks. Lodged between the walls is a huge rock of
granite, Avhich, according to tradition, Avas brought there in
the following raanner: "In the days of old there were two
giants, Ronne aud Morrura, who resolved to force a passage to
the sea for the water from the upper lakes. The one who first
brought the water to the sea was to have his river full of
fish; while in that of the other a human being Avould be
drowned every year. They worked aAvay, each at his own
river; but when Ronne reached the rocks at Djupadal the
work was so hard that he rested and lay down to sleep. In
the mean time Morrura got the road open to tbe sea for his
stream. That river is now called Morrura, and it erapties
into the sea about seven railes from Karlshamn. When he
had finished his task he sent a woman to tickle Ronne on
his head to awaken hira. When Ronne awoke he fiew into a
rage, and dashed the woman against the rocks; and some hun
dreds of years ago the raark of the place where she struck was
pointed out. At the sarae time he took a huge stone aud
threw it with such force against the obstruction that it split
open, and the water found its way to the sea, the rock remain
ing where it was," for tradition says it is the very one that did
the work. Great abundance of salmon are found in the Mor-
rum River, while the Ronne has none, and every year there
are some people getting drowned in the latter.
The province of Blekinge is very rich in antiquities, espe-

436 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
cially old graves or bautastenar. Half-way between Karlskrona
and Ronneby is Hjortshaminar, on a small promontory run
ning into the sea. Here are found nearly one hundred me
raorial stones and ship -markings: some of these bautastenar
are of considerable size. The place AA-as evidently a Viking
burial-ground, and the spot a fitting resting-place for these
heroes of the deep. A little farther west, north of the road,
are three fine bautastenar, one of which has a Runic inscrip
tion. These brave men appear always to have chosen for
their final resting-places some romantic spot in the neighbor
hood of the sea.
On the way to Karlshamn I passed the church of Hoby.
Karlshamn has a population of about 6000; it is a thriving
town, with ship-yards and factories of various kinds. It has a
large square surrounded by a row of shady trees, and in the
centre an old-fashioned purap, to which the people come for
water. One side is flanked by the white wall of the church
yard, and comfortable houses adorn the three other sides. A
shaded square lies at the mouth of the river on the bay.
There is a park just outside of the town, on a hill called
Bellevue, adorned by superb trees, among which are very
flue oaks and beeches.
Swedish towns are very quiet except on market-days ; as is
usual on such occasions, many on their way home feel rather
exhilarated, and have entirely lost the demure countenance
they had on their arrival.
One of the primitive sights which amused me was an an
tiquated dredge in operation, moved by two poor-looking cows,
which wearily went round and round.
Walking through the streets I carae to a house before which
fir twigs were scattered. This is an old Norwegian and
Swedish custom, observed on the day of burial. Often in
small villages or towns these are spread frora the house to the
church. In the cities, in the room where the dead lies, the
mirrors, as well as the front windows of the house, are coa'-
ered with a white sheet. The announcements of death are
published in the newspapers with a black border around them,
speciraens of which are appended :

NOTICES OF DEATHS. 437
That tho ever-merciful God, in his supreme and impenetrable wisdom, has called
to himself our beloved little daughter, Hanna Yka Ebba Agnks, who, born on
midsuminer-night's-evc, 1878, after only a few hours of suffering, calmly and peace
fully expired at Askarod, Tuesday, March 11th, 1879, at 1.37 o'clock a.m., mourned,
regretted, and bewailed by parents, a little sister, grandfather, and relations, is only
in this way announced to relations and sympathizing friends. Sw. Ps. No. 477, v. 8.
AGAmNE Pehrsson,
WiLHELM PeHKSSON.
Aekni-od, March 11th, 1879.
That the grand chamberlain, coramander of the Order of Vasa, knight of the
Order of Nordstjeman, Count Axel Jacob de la Gardie, born April 4th, 1819,
died calmly and peacefully at Maltesholra, January 16th, 1879, at 1.60 a.m., deeply
mourned by the surviving wife, brothers and sisters, relations and nuraerous friends,
is only announced in this raanner. Sw. Ps. No. 91, v. 5.
That it has to-day at 9 a.m. pleased God to call away by a calm and peaceable
death my dearly-beloved wife, Elna Nilsdotteb, after a Ufe of thirty-seven years
six months and nineteen days, mourned and regretted by me and five little chil
dren, parents, brothers, and sisters, is only in this way announced to relations and
friends. Sw. Ps. No. 478, v. 4, No. 344, v. 4. Nils Person.
Vestra Kattarp, February 2Sth, 1879.
That the servant-girl Carolina Persson died calmly and peacefully in Klintarp,
March 14th, 1879, at an age of fifty-five years nine months and eight days, mourn
ed by sisters and their children, is only in this manner announced to relations and
friends. Sw. Ps. 478, v. 1.
Huge boulders in sorae parts of Blekinge are comraon.
Near Karlsharan there are sorae of very great size, almost
square, Avith rounded corners. Upon one of these are marks
resembling impressions of feet, knees, and fingers which in
olden times were supposed to have been raade by the giants.
At a short distance from the town is the haralet of Asarum,
Avhere there is a spring called the offering spring (offerkillan).
On AU-hallow-eve the boys and raaidens frora far and wide
come to raake their offerings at this place, consisting of small
pieces of money, bread-crusts, egg-shells, etc. This old custom
was originally designed to gain the favor of the fairies, who
were thought to have their homes around this spring, and
who would assist them in getting sweethearts.
A few miles from Karlshamn there is a beautiful spot called
Valhall, made of gigantic boulders piled one upon another,
which form in one part a grotto. It is so steep that its summit

438 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
is accessible only on two sides. This was in heathen times an
attestupa, that is, a place from which the people, when old and
infirm, used to throw themselves, it being considered shameful
to die in bed or of old age, as men ought to have died before
ou the battle-field, frora which they were carried by the
Valkyries to Odin's hall, Valhall. Of all the religions invent
ed by man, none ever taught a more utter disregard of death,
or led to raore reckless deeds of bravery, than that of the
Northmen. On the way south is the estate of Elleholm, from Avhose
grounds one has a raost beautiful view of land and sea ; and
near by is the now quiet toAvn of Solvesborg, tbe ancient resi
dence of the great Viking Solve.
Not far from the boundary-line between Blekinge and the
province of SkS,ne, at a short distance from Solvesborg, and
near the Baltic, is the country-seat of Valsjo, entailed in the
family of Count Trolle Wachtmeister, a descendant of one
of the old and famous families of Sweden, From the road, as
is often the case in this country, one does not dreara that such
a beautiful place is hidden from view. Having a letter of in-
troductipn to the owner, I directed my steps towards the man
sion, which was embosoraed in trees. I was received with a
courtesy that was the raore gratefully appreciated as I was a
stranger to all. The countess expressed her regret at the ab
sence of her husband.
Near the porch stood a post-chaise ready to start ; but my
unexpected arrival delayed the departure of the guests, a
gentleman and two young ladies, his daughters ; a cousin of
the host, bearing the sarae name and title, avIio was governor
of Karlskrona Ian (province of Blekinge). During tbe short
time of our acquaintance I was invited to visit them at their
estate of Johannishus. The mansion at Valsjo is unpretend
ing and sraall; indeed, a large building Avould seera out of
place ; but no wealth could give the spot its exquisite natural
surroundings. It is a gem, and may be ranked as one of the
prettiest places on the shores of the Baltic. There are no ex
tended lawns or majestic avenues of trees ; but these, in such
close proximity to the sea, Avould spoil the effect of the land-

A LOVELY RETREAT BY THE SEA. 439
scape. The woods grow down to the very edge of the water,
and Avhen the sun is poAverful one enjoys the shade of the
superb beeches, the long branches of Avhich spread widely from
the trunks. One of these trees measured between six and
seven feet in diameter. The ground Avas carpeted Avith ferns,
and large boulders were covered Avith a thick, green, velvet
like moss, forming natural cushions several inches deep, add
ing greatly to the beauty of the view. At times one skirts
the Baltic, upon the shores of Avhich lay large bare raasses of
granite, brought down by glaciers. The countess was an ad
mirer of nature, and loved Valsjo for its beautiful scenery, and
a great deal more than ber more pretentious chateau of Ljung
by. We sat for awhile at a favorite place where the members
of the family often stopped to rest, and whence we bad an ex
tended view of the coast. Soon after we came to another
point, from which the sea, the islands, and the mansion could
be seen, and then plunged again into the midst of a grove of
splendid beech -trees, and among raoss -covered rocks, until
we reached a proraontory of bare granite, upon Avhich Ave seat
ed ourselves to enjoy the view of the bay, studded Avith rocky
and barren islands, with a background of dark forest. Two
or three fishing -smacks, with sails shining Avhite as the sun
struck upon them, were slowly moving, for it Avas alraost calra,
aud not a ripple disturbed the still waters. The scenery was
peculiarly SAvedish, and can only be seen on the southern
shores of the Baltic. We continued our rarable under beauti
ful trees until we came to groves of Avhite-trunked birches,
two of whicli were centuries old, with crooked limbs and hol
low trunks, covered with thick raoss. Meadows and fields of
winter rye lay between this grove and another Avood of mag
nificent birches, and as we approached the house, Avhich look
ed home-like, the fragrance of roses in full bloom perfumed
the air. The cherries in the kitchen-garden were getting ripe
as early as July 1st, and their bright red color could be seen.
When I thought that the time allowed by etiquette for ray
visit had been exhausted, I rose to bid good-bye to the fami
ly ; but the hostess said, " Be so good as not to go yet ; do not
be in a hurry;" and then delicious strawberries and melons

440 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
from the garden were served to us outside the house, after
which the countess insisted that I should remain, and upon
sending for my trunk at Solvesborg, My engagements were
such that I could not accept, but I could not leave before
taking tea with the family. There was no ostentatious dis
play, but a sense of home-like comfort per\raded everything.
The daughter of the house, a charming young lady, poured
the tea, which with the cups had been placed on a separate
table, after which she carae to join us, while the servant
waited upon the guests.
When the hour carae to say farewell, two members of the
faraily prepared to accorapany me back to the village, and aU
came out to see me safely in their own carriage, I have not
forgotten my kind reception at Valsjo, nor the pleasant walk
under the old trees.

CHATEAUX OF SKANE. 441

CHAPTER XXXIX.
The Province of Sk&ne, or Scania. — The Garden of tho Peninsula of Scandinavia.
—Chateaux. — Ancestral Homes. — Mild Climate. — Pine Farms. — Peculiar Con
struction of the Houses. — Character of the Scanians. — Diet of Farmers. — Names
given to Females and Males. — Trolle Ljungby. — An Old Drinking-horn and
Whistle. — Interesting Legends. — Lake Ifo. — Its Chateaux. — Ahus. — Christian
stad. — The Estate of Eabelbf. — A Fruitful Garden. — Great Nurabers of Birds. —
How Farm-hands are Paid. — Law concerning Master and Servant. — Home Life
on a Large Estate. — Estates in the Neighborhood of Christianstad. — Ystad. —
Chateaux around Ystad.
Skane or Scania is the most southern province of Sweden,
covering a space of 4300 square railes, and is justly called the
Garden of Scandinavia. Large estates under high cultivation,
belonging to the old nobility of Sweden, are met in every di
rection, and numerous chateaux, raany of which are surround
ed by moats. Often their ancient walls are green with ivy,
honeysuckle, or fruit-trees growing in espaliers ; while a gar
den in the French style, resplendent with the bright colors of
many flowers, contrasts singularly with the greensward, and
the majestic trees or parks which are around them. A view
of the sea, soraetiraes seen afar over the plain, or of a neigh
boring lake, may add to the charm of those lovely homes.
Graperies, hot-houses filled with fiowers and exotics, are close
by, perhaps hidden from sight by shrubbery or trees. The
owners of raany of these reraain all the year round, enjoying
the life of country gentlemen, and, possessing fine studs, take
great interest in the improvement of stock and horses. Shoot
ing and fishing are the principal pastime.*
* Among the game are Tetrao teirix (black grouse), Perdix cinerea (partridge),
Gatlimda cMoropus (moor-hen), Scolopax rusticola (woodcock), GalHnago media
(common snipe), Oallinago major (double snipe). Capjreolus caprtm (roebuck), Cervits
ekphus (stag).

442 TUE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
Many of these ancestral homes were erected in the beginning
or raiddle of the fourteenth century, when SkSne belonged to
Denmark. Their structure rerainds one of the mode of build
ing of that period, and of the intense religious feeling of the
people at that time ; over the gate-way, or under a stone arch,
are often seen sculptured representations of the Trinity. The
owners bear names. known in the annals of history; within
their walls are libraries and archives, which are valuable to
the student, and in their balls hang portraits of famous men
and Avoraen of their days. The climate is comparatively mild,
as the province is surrounded by the sea on three sides; the
summers are warm, the thermometer reaching 90° in the
shade, and I found the rays of the sun more powerful than in
England : the winters may corapare with those of the State of
NeAV York, but the sumraers have not its intense heat. In
the most southern part, at the latter end of April or begin
ning of Ma}', the horse-chestnuts unfold their leaves; and a
little later the oaks are full leafed. Apple, pear, plura, raul-
berry, walnut, and chestnut trees fiourish, Avhile peaches, apri
cots, and grapes do well in espaliers in raany places.
The landscape of the province has characteristics of its oavu ;
the large forests are missed, except in the northern part, the
country is not so well watered, lakes are few, and mostly shab
low. In the south the country is fiat, and haralets with their
red-tiled roofs, the spires of churches, and farms embosomed in
trees, can be seen from a long distance in the midst of Avaving
fields. The farms vary in size frora 20 to 300 acres, and the
people raise grain, cattle, and horses. There are several kinds
of properties in Sweden :
Fralse  A farm or estate upon which no direct tax to the State is levied.
FrdUeskatte . .\ Free from direct tax to the state, but pay an annual tax to
Skattefrake. .) some other party.
Skatte  Pay direct taxes to the State.
Krono  Crown estates are leased generally for twenty years.
Rvsthdll  One or several farms supporting a horseman.
Rotehall  One or several farms supporting a foot-soldier, or marine.
SkUne is celebrated for its fine farms belonging to the peas
antry, raany of whom are quite Avealtliy, and independent in

HOUSE-BUILDING IN SKANE. 443
their politics. The mode of construction is peculiar. The
farm-buildings along the roads form a perfect square, often
more than 100 feet in front, with a single entrance or gate,
through which the carts enter ; there are no windows on the
side towards the road. The dwelling-houses stand back, and
often front towards the fields ; most of these are thatched — a
mode of roofing almost unknown in other parts of Sweden,
Generally such places have no trees around thera.
The sraaller farms, of less pretensions, occupied by the poor
er people, are so arranged that the buildings forra only two
sides of a square, presenting au odd appearance. On one side
is the dwelling-house, of a white color, often built of bricks
plastered over, and soraetimes of wood, with lathwork covered
with mortar, while on the other is a long structure, gener
ally of wood, painted red, used for the cattle, for stable and
cart -house, the storage of wood, and other purposes. Tbe
people here have much less capacious buildings than in the far
North. On account of the scarcity of timber, they have a pe-
euhar kind of house called " korsverkshus ;" the frame is of
wood, filled in with bricks, with tbe outside plastered. There
are others besides, which are built in the following manner :
the timber frame is first set up, on which boards are nailed
inside and outside to a height of about three feet ; then a
carefully prepared mixture of clay and straw, three-quarters
of the former and one quarter of the latter, is rararaed in as
tightly as possible; then another height of board is put on,
and the sarae process is repeated till the eaves are reached ;
when the boards are taken off, the walls are left to dry, and
the outside is further protected by mortar. These buildings
are very comfortable, and some are to be found over two cen
turies old.
The character of the Skanians contrasts singularly with that
of their northern neighbors of the provinces of Blekinge,
Smaiand, Halland, and Bohuslan ; they are quiet, phlegmatic,
peaceable, and good-natured. Their farmers live well; in
summer, in the height of the' harvesting season, they take a
meal composed of railk and soft, dark, sour rye bread and but
ter immediately after rising ; at six or half -past six comes what

444

THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.

they call breakfast, of about the sarae food, with or without
coffee ; at half-past ten or eleven, if they have not taken food
with them, they either come horae or something is sent. Din
ner is at noon, when they eat either salt pork, fish, or sausages.

<s=rv\ ,^

AN OLD UO06E IN 8KANF,, 1558.

corned beef, or soup (according to the days), potatoes, and sour
milk. At five o'clock they take another raeal, consisting of
cheese, butter, and bread, Avith a portion of drieka, a light
small-beer; at eight o'clock is supper, consisting invariably of

THE CHATEAU OF TROLLE LJUNGBY. 4:4^5
grot, with either SAveet or sour milk. The cows and sheep are
kept on the farms all the year round.
In the southern and in some other parts of Sweden many
of the names of the women are peculiar, and some of them
very pretty. Among them are Signild, Hildigunda, Elna,
Bengta, Ebba, Ingrid, Kama, Yra, Selma, Erika, Wendela,
Thekla, Ulla, Pernilla, Gerda, Blanda, Gunilla, Helfrida, Both-
ild, Signe, Gundela, Hildegard, Hedvig, Valborg, Disa, Thyra,
Ingegerd, Gothild, Astrid, Valfrida, Yrsa, Helga, Hillevid, lUi-
ana, Magna, Estrid, Elvira, Vendela, Hildur, Engela, Alfhild,
Hertha, Freja : Syster (sister) is often used as a surname.
Among the raen are the following naraes: Axel, Pontus,
Klas, Fabian, Thure, Sixten, Malte, lljalmar, Henning, Didrik,
Sigge (very old, Odin being called Sigge Fridolfson), Fridolf,
Sven, Sigurd, Sten, Ivar, Thiodolph, Gunnar, Jesper, Thorgny,
Ragnvald, Alf, Gothe, Valfrid, Helge, Folke, Frithiof, Gude,
Hildmar, Erland, Arvid, Elof, Bengt, Tryggve, Egil, Svante,
Elof, Ulf, Bjorn, Styrbjorn : Bror (brother) is also used as a
surname. At a short distance from Valsjo is the small river Sissebiick,
which there forms the boundary between Blekinge and Scania,
which last includes the lans of Christianstad and Malmohus.
About nine miles fi'om Solvesborg, and midway between it
and the seaport of Abus, is Trolle Ljungby, the largest estate
in Scania, comprising over 40,000 acres ; it is entailed in the
family of Count Trolle Wachtmeister, The chateau is of
brick, surrounded by a raoat, and in the midst of a very unpict-
uresque, flat country. The oldest part of the present structure
was built in 1633, and a later addition in 1787. The mansion
has nothing remarkable in its architecture.
Among its old family portraits is one of Count Wacht
meister, who was Minister to England in the time of Crom
well. The collection includes those of several kings of Swe
den, presented by theraselves. There are charming paintings,
the work of the present countess, and one of the count, hang-
mg upon the walls ; the old clocks and spoils of the Thirty
Years' War are full of interest.
Crossing the moat, one coraes to the church, where, as usual.

446 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
the raales and f eraales sit apart ; the pew of the countess was
on one side, and that of her husband on the other ; but in no
way different frora those occupied by the people of the place.
As in most of the old churches, this contained portraits of for
raer pastors and their families, as a sort of memorial. In the
crypt below were coflins containing the remains of members
of the family who died long ago. Tavo of these coflSns Avere
made of brass or copper, and araong the dates I saw that of
1679. In a wooden casket I could see the shrivelled forra of a
woman ; a few remnants of lace around the head and some
dried flowers were all that remained to mark one of the
wealthy and accomplished countesses of Wachtmeister.
In many of the old chateaux of Sweden are found curious
articles Avbicb, iu centuries past, when superstition was rife,
were held as talismans. The destruction of so raany beautiful
buildings by flre has taken place where these have been re
raoved, that the people, without being actually credulous, keep
them for good-luck. Among the objects of curiosity shown
me at Trolle Ljungby was a drinking-horn and a whistle, which
had the following curious history attached to thera: On the
road to Christianstad not far from the chateau stands a boul
der thirty feet long, twenty-four feet Avide, and twenty feet in
height, called Maglestone. Tradition says that at the introduc
tion of Christianity two giants resided here. A church was
built in Abus,* and the giants living in the parish of Jerashog
becoraing exceedingly angry at this innovation, threw at it two
huge stones, called Maglestone and Tippelstone, intending to
destroy it ; but they failed to hit tbe mark. It was believed
in olden times that the Trolls (witches) dwelt under this stone,
and at Christmas-time raised it and supported it by pillars of
gold, while they danced and feasted beneath its shadow, the
peasants not daring to approach.
In the year 1490 Ljungby was in tbe possession of Lady
Sidsela Ulfstand, who, hearing that tbe Trolls Avould hold
their Christmas revel under Maglestone, asked her servants
if any one was willing to try to flnd out what they did there,
* Ahus is situated on the coast a few miles from Ljungby.

THE LEGEND OF MAGLESTONE. 447
promising to give as a reward her best horse and a suit of
clothes. A stableman said he Avould try. Saddling a horse,
he rode to Maglestone, and as he approached it he saw it was
raised and supported by pillars of gold, resplendent with lights,
aud the Trolls, araong whom was a Christian maid who had
been made a prisoner by them, were merry. When he was
discovered, tAvo raen came towards him, one with a horn the
other with a whistle, and asked hira to drink to the health of
the mountain king, and to bloAv at each end of the whistle.
The Christian maid whispered to him : " Don't drink, but
ride back home full speed." So he threw the contents behind
him, spilling a few drops on the hip of the horse, burning the
animal, and with horn and whistle galloped back to Ljungby,
pursued by the Trolls; but Lady Sidsela ordered the draw
bridge to be raised, for Trolls cannot cross the water or run
over ruts and ploughed ground. The next day a deputation
of the Trolls came to the castle and asked for the return of
the horn and whistle, proraising in exchange to raake the fam
ily the richest in the land ; but their entreaties Avere in vain,
and they retired, leaving a curse, saying that her family should
become extinct, and that every tirae the horn was reraoved
Ljungby would be destroyed by flre. The stableman, who had
escaped, died ; three tiraes the horn has been removed, and
three times the place has been destroyed by fire ; great mis
fortune has attended the descendants of Lady Sidsela Ulf
stand, and none of them are left. So the prophecy of the
Trolls has been fulfilled.
The drive from Solvesborg to Ljungby gives to the stranger
a poor idea of the fertility of the province of Sk§,ne ; the soil
is in many places light and sandy, with large boulders near
the sea; fields and patches of tobacco are numerous in this
section. Tobacco is planted extensively in raany parts of
Sweden, especially in the southern provinces, and is seen even
around Stockholm. That raised around Ahus, and near Chris
tianstad, is highly prized by the Swedes, its good quality being
attributed to the manuring of the land with sea-weed ; and this
cultivation has given a high value to that otherAvise poor soil.
A few miles north of Trolle Ljungby is Lake Ifo, on the

448 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
eastern side of which is the farm of Hofg3,rden ; the house is
built over the crypt in which the Bishop of Lund, Andreas
Suneson, lived while afflicted with leprosy, and is now used as
a cellar. Over the entrance is cut in the stone the year 1222.
On the shore are several chateaux, among them the castle of
Beckaskog, a crown residence on the narrow tract of land which
divides this lake from the Opmanna, This was a favorite
summer residence of the late king, Charles XV, It was in
former times a monastery for the Bernardino monks. Of the
former monastery buildings the old church with a toAver re
raains. The castle has a tower five stories high. The house
is of brick, forming one side of a long square, fianked by low
buildings, roofed with tiles, and used as barns and stables.
Through the yard a little stream of clear water runs on its way
to Lake Ifo, Beckaskog, by right the residence of the colonel
of the regiment of Dragoons of Sk^ne, comprises about 1300
acres of land. The father of King Carl leased it frora the
colonel, and the lease continued under him. The apartments
in the mansion had a cosy look, and were notable for taste and
simplicity. In this quiet retreat King Carl passed a few weeks
in the summer, and often received the farmers, talking and
drinking beer with them. Among the horses I saw two superb
Arab stallions. There are three national stud-farms in Sweden
— at Stromsholm, near Wester§,s ; at Ottenby, in Oland; and at
Flyinge, in Sk§,ne, whence the stallions are sent in sumraer to
different parts of the country for the use of farmers who are
desirous to improve their breed of horses. I was surprised to
find clouds of mosquitoes, the first I had raet in such numbers
in the South,
From the park I could see Karsholm, a castle finely situated
on the opposite shore of Lake Opmanna. This property be
longed to a Danish gentleman, who had made a fortune in
Norway, where he also owned quite a beautiful place on the
Christiania fjord.
Frora Ljungby the highway continues along the coast, and
at almost all times views or glimpses of tbe sea are obtained ;
following that route, one passes nuraerous country-seats, often
hidden from view, and comes now and then to a sea-town.

THE TOWN OF CHRISTIANSTAD.

449

Ahus Avas formerly an iraportant trading-place, and is men
tioned in old writings as early as 1149,
For a long distance the spire of the church of Christianstad
is seen, as the city lies in the midst of a flat and rich marshy
country, on the shores of the Helge. This place has a popula
tion of 9000, and was founded by the Danish king. Christian
IV., when Sk^ne was under Denmark, and Avas raade a forti
fied town ; the fortifications have now been partly pulled down

auus ouuuon.

and replaced by pleasure-grounds. It is tbe residence of the
governor of the province, and the seat of the Superior Court
for the provinces of SkS,ne and Blekinge. A regiraent of
cavalry is always stationed here, and, as in many sraall garri
son towns, the feeling of the civilians against the military is
intense : such was the case Avhen I visited the place. Duel-
hng in the army is unknown in Sweden and Norway ; pub
lic opinion regards this custom as a relic of a barbarous age,,
The church is a fine type of Renaissance architecture. The
letter C and arms of King Christian are found in many places
on the walls. The town is ou the bank of the Helge Lake,
and at its upper outiet. The lake is shallow, and extensive
VOL. II, 2 «

450 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
engineering works are now employed to drain it and turn it
into fruitful land. The river has been deepened, and connects
the city with the thriving port of Ahus,
Many fine estates are also found around Christianstad.
About three railes frora the city is RSbelof, which covers an
area of about 17,000 acres of land. Iron figures on one of the
outside walls of the house show the time of its construction
(1637), and tbe letters H. W. and F. M. W. give the initials of
its former owners. In ancient times it had two towers, since
destroyed by fire ; alraost everywhere these old country-seats
have been partly burned at one tirae or another. Four avenues
lined with trees lead from the house in different directions.
The host received me with great kindness. He was of
Scotch descent, and spoke English remarkably well, also Ger
raan and French. He had travelled all over Europe, and in
Persia, Egypt, and Algeria. The baroness spoke French ad-
rairably.* I was surprised to see on the table of the parlor a
nuraber of Harper's Magazine. When I expressed my aston
ishment, my host took occasion to bestow great praise on that
publication, which he said had maintained for years the same
high standard of popular and interesting matter. I was glad
to hear the encomiums awarded to my friends, and to see their
periodical so well appreciated in this distant region.
The mansion was simply furnished ; no old portraits or
paintings adorned its walls, but everywhere was an air of com
fort. The front of the house overlooked a large garden pro
tected by a hedge, and redolent with flowers, a kitchen-garden,
a small pond, numerous fruit-trees, a pavilion, while trees and
shrubbery were abundant. On one side the carriage-way was
an open gravelled space, near the ridge of whieh stood a large
chestnut-tree with a seat. Through the trees we had a view
of the lake ; behind a little lawn there was a thick grove hid
ing a large barn, while other spacious buildings were close at
hand. Several huge bee-hive-like piles of fire-wood, chiefly
birch, cut or sawed, were drying ; for wood is generally used

* In Sweden a titled woman marrying an untitled gentleraan keeps her title
added to the name of her husband.

THE ESTATE OF RABELOF. 451
in Avell - regulated houses only when it has been cut two or
three years, as it burns better and makes a warmer fire. The
AvindoAvs of my room overlooked tbe garden, and at night I
heard at times the horn of the AA'atchman, Avhose duty it Avas
to Avalk around the farm to guard it against fire. This custora
is prevalent on all large estates in SAveden. The Avatchinan is
required to be on duty until 4 a.m., and then he sleeps until
1 P.M., and Avorks afterwards. But even before the specified
hour, at that time of the year, as the twilight fell, a boy ap
peared in the garden, making a loud noise with a wooden rat
tle, and this was followed now and then by tbe firing of guns.
This is done to frighten tbe birds, Avhicli were exceedingly
numerous. The bullfinch, thrush, sparrow, oriole, several va
rieties of warblers, and many other birds peopled the wood
outside of the garden, and made sad havoc with the cherries.
The cooing of tbe wild-pigeon was also heard.
This estate is charged with the support of 28 soldiers, each
of whom has a cottage with four acres, which raust be plough
ed by the owner of the estate. Certain farms are rented upon
the agreement by the tenant that he will work for a given
number of days during each year on the property. Peat is
supplied to all the laborers, this fuel being extensively used,
for forests are scarce in the South. There are about 150
people employed by the year ; during the busy season 400 or
500 extra hands are hired. The farm hands haA'e a right to
about half a gallon of sweet milk daily, together with an an
nual portion of thirty-two bushels of rye and barley, divided
into equal parts ; fiA^e more of potatoes ; an allowance of ten
kronor for meat and fish, and a certain amount of tobacco ;
besides, three measures of flax-seed, and land enough to plant
it, so that each man can produce the material for his own
linen. In summer each hand has beer, and the supply of fuel
is sufficient for his use the whole year. The raen are lodged
free, and the unraarried raan can save 100 kronor a year out
of the 150 he receives. Besides the great nuraber of servants
employed (and every farm or estate seems to have a greater
number than is required), the children of the farm hands, and
the sick and the poor, are under careful supervision. Ji (j( J!i

452 THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.
The laws concerning raasters and servants are strict in Swe
den. After engaging a servant, the employer gives a small
araount of money — generally about three kronor — to seal the
bargain ; Avhen this sum has been accepted, it cannot be re
turned, the contract thereby becoming irrevocable on either
side. After engaging a servant, the employer cannot send
him or her away until the time of the contract expires ; if not
satisfied, the master must endure, unless he can prove before a
court of justice that the man he has engaged refuses to work.
If sent away before the stipulated tirae, the servant can recov
er the full araount agreed upon, together with the equiA^alent
of his board and lodging. In the sarae manner, should the
servant run away, he is liable to a very heavy fine, and is com
pelled to return. This precision has a happy effect in secur
ing good service for the employer, and kind treatment towards
the eraployed.
The home life of the owners on many of these large estates
is still priraitive, in many respects resembling the raode of liv
ing in raediseval times. The stranger is impressed by the air
of comfort perceptible araong them. The landholders make
at home almost everything they require. Industrious habits
characterize every one, from the master and raistress of the
house to the humblest servant. The larger the farm or es
tate, the more the mistress has to superintend in the house
hold and its economy, and these duties are never regarded as
a derogation from her dignity.
Near the mansion of R§,bel6f is the Economy House (name
given to a building where home industries are carried on), a
granite structure, in one of the rooms of Avhich there are three
looms. An experienced weaver, a Avoman, is engaged by the
year to superintend the work. As I entered she was occu
pied in weaving a beautiful large linen table-cloth, while one
of her assistants was making a linen cover for a carpet, and a
third was busy on coarse sheeting for the beds of the working
hands. The flax and hemp were raised on the farm. There
were also people eraployed in spinning wool, and Aveaving cloth
and carpets — all the wool used in these fabrics being tbe prod
uct of the farm. The head Avoman-servant was paid 200 kro-

fc)

THE SUBURBS OF CHRISTIANSTAD. 453
nor a year ; the other females receiving from 50 to 60 kronor
each. There is also a brewery, where a woman made the
beer, and, when not so engaged, eraployed herself in weaving.
The hops were grown on the estate. A bakery also was sup-
phed with home-made flour. The amount of winter provision
necessary for the household had to be carefully attended to,
in order not to run short ; but the proceeds from the sale of
the produce of the kitchen-garden and orchards were large, and
furnished the pin-raoney for the wife, as is the case on raany
of the estates.
A short distance north-west from Christianstad is situated
the estate of Araslof, belonging to Count Hamilton. It is oue
of the largest in SkS.ne, and is divided into a great number
of fertile and well- cultivated farms. About fourteen miles
farther north is the estate of Wanas, with a flne old chateau
dating from the year 1566. It is surrounded by gardens and
woods. Among the remarkable paintings which it contains
is Ecce Homo, by Guido Reni.
The sandy and monotonous region which surrounds Ahus
gives place a few railes south to a landscape which in raany re
spects can well corapare with the raost favored parts of SkS,ne.
Maltesholra is one of the finest estates entailed in the De
la Gardie family, whose armorial shields are seen in raany
churches and chateaux belonging to that name before the
"reduction." The chateau dates only from about 1700. Itis
approached across a valley by a road 4650 feet long, often 24
above the ground, and in some places 35 feet wide. Farther
south and near the sea is the estate and chateau of Widtskofie,
with its several towers — a fine old structure, surrounded by a
moat, dating from 1533. Above the gate-way is a represen
tation of the Trinity ; it is surrounded by grounds, parks, and
gardens, said to be araong the finest in Sk§,ne. South-west of
Widtskofie lies the princely castle of Kristinehof, entailed in
the family of Count Piper.
Journeying doAvn the coast, one comes to the port of Cim-
brishamn, with a population of about 1800 inhabitants. At a
short distance is the fishing -village of Kivik, where is seen
the graves of the bronze age which I have described in Vol. I.

454

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

Near it is the parish of Jerrestad, one of the few places of
Sk&ne where the ancient costume is still in use araong the

OOST0.ME OF JEBRESTAD.

peasants. The men Avear light yellow leather breeches, and
the Avoiuen Avoolleu outside garraents of variegated colors, Avith
white skirts over the petticoats.

A GRAIN-EXPORTING TOWN.

456

A few railes south-west, near the high-road, is the estate of
Glimrainge, Avith a castle, one of tbe two left in Sweden in its
original state, showing the raodo of building fortified houses
during raedineval tiraes, and therefore one of the most reraark

able, perhaps, in the country
teenth centurv.

It was built during the four-

BAPTISMAL font of stone in TEYDE OHUROU, GKANJ3.

Thirty miles south-west of Cimbrishamn is the town of
Ystad (lat, 55° 25'), with a population of nearly 7000. It has a
commodious harbor, and exports much grain, especially to Eng
land, There is a charming walk along the beach, a public gar
den, and a fine cemetery ; there are two churches, one dating
from about 1200. The chalk cliffs of Denmark (isle of Moen)
are seen, looking very Avhite in the dazzling sun, Frora Ystad
we have now entered Malmo Ian, the most thickly settled and

456 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
fertile part of Skfine, containing a population of 181 to the
square mile. On its seaboard are several thriving corn-export
ing towns.
Tosterup is eight miles from Ystad, with a castle aud towers,
frora which a raagnificent vieA\' is had over the surrounding
plain and the Baltic, Araong the chateaux in the neighbor
hood are Charlottenluud, with pleasure-park and gardens, from
which there is an extensive view of the sea; Marvinsholm,
built in 1644-48, with a raoat spanned by a stone bridge ; and
Krageholm, the property of Count Piper, with its trees clipped
to forra rooras and passages, A foAV miles farther north an
other branch of the sarae faraily own the estates of Snoge-
holm and Sofdeborg, the latter with a chateau of the seven
teenth century, decorated and furnished in the Netherland
style of the sixteenth century: here are fine historical por
traits, araong thera those of the Konigsmark faraily, including
that of the fair Aurora ; the knight's hall was once of great
magnificence, ornamented with copper sheets, which, when the
wind struck them, made an seolian music. Farther north is
Ofvedskloster, with a very fine chateau and a grand forest,
in which roam a peculiar breed of railk-white deer, of which
there are only two or three herds in Sweden, In a raore
westerly direction from Ystad is Svaneholm, on an island in
the beautiful Svanesjo, besides a number of other estates.
From the roads, winding their tortuous ways along the
shores of southern and western Scania, the eye, wandering
across the water, sees the coast of Denmark, a kingdom iu
habited by a race worthy of their ancestors of old. Looking
at that land, the memory of the daring and mighty deeds of
their forefathers came back vividly to my mind ; the brilliant
record of their great past, with the grand results which followed
the outgrowth of their tremendous energy, as seen in the great
empires which have risen and inherited their blood, appeared
in a panorama of majestic outlines. History unfolded itself.
Uncovering my head reverently, I exclaimed, Land of the
Danes ! Scandinavian country ! ancient home of Vikings 1 I
salute thee ! and equally Avith thy twin sisters, Sweden and
Norway, I wish thee happiness and prosperity !

SKANOR AND FALSTERBO. 457

CHAPTER XL.
A flat, low Coast.— Skanor and Falsterbo.— Their Antiquity.— Malmo.— City Hall
of Malmo. — Guilds in Northern Europe. — Malmb Castle. — Landskrona. — The
Island of Hven. — Birthplace of Tycho Brahe. — Helsingborg. — A Beautiful
Neighborhood. — Castles, Chateaux. — The Coal-mines of Hoganas. — The Univer
sity Town of Lund.— Cathedral of St. Lars.— Estates around Lund.— Ortofta.—
Skarhult. — Loberbd. — Trollenas. — TroUeholm. — The Promontory of KuUen. 
A Fine View. — Leaving Scandinavia. — Farewell.
Feom the dangerous Sandhammar reef, some seventeen
miles east of Ystad, the low coast of SkSne runs east and west
for about seventy miles. At the fishing-village of Smygge
(lat. 55° 20'), the most southerly point of Sweden is reached.
Here the sun rises on June 23d at 3.18 a.m:., and sets at
8.46 P.M. ; on September 23d it rises at 6.49 a.m., and sets
at 5.55 P.M. ; while on the shortest day, December 23d, it
rises at 8.31 a.m., and sets at 3.27 p.m. What a contrast be
tween this southern shore of the peninsula and the northern !
Here fruitful fields, orchards, and hamlets erabosomed in trees ;
there a stern, dark, rocky coast, terminating in the weird North
Cape, Trelleborg (lat, 55° 22') is the raost southerly town of
Sweden, with a population of 2100. In the raidst of two
clumps of trees are seen tAvo spires: these belong to the
churches of the old towns of Skanor and Falsterbo, once rich
and powerful, but now insignificant villages ; the first having
a population of 750, and the second, of 300. They have a com
mon cemetery, burgomaster, and poor-house. There is neither
druggist nor doctor, and sometimes a year or two passes with
out a death. , For more than a generation not a person has been
imprisoned even for the most trivial offence. The people are
temperate ; they do not allow a liquor-shop in their midst. A
more primitive community can hardly be found ; but, like the
rest of their countryraen, they indulge in innocent recreations
on Sunday afternoons. Both places flourished in the begin-

458

THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.

ning of the Christian era, and their fairs once were among
the most popular in Scandinavia. Hollanders and merchants
of the Hanseatic League owned large establishments. The her
ring-fisheries were very extensive, the shoals said to be often
so thick that the boats could hardly row among them ; but
the fish have disappeared. Their ports A^'ere deep and safe ;
Falsterbo, especially, had a raagnificent harbor, but in 1631 a
furious tempest swept the sand from the downs and shores,
aud filled it, covering, besides, the fertile lands around : dan-
gei'ous reefs uoav line the coast.

•S^^A'-^^AA-

OHUEOH OF BKANSr.

Most of the male population is a seafaring one ; their sail
ors are considered among the best in Sk^ne, and many men
have their homes here. The church of Skanor is an interest
ing old edifice, possessing among its relics an ancient stone
font, Avitb the effigies of a nuraber of kings, araong thera St.
Olaf. From Falsterbo the coast trends north, and forms with
tbe Danish shores tbe Oresund Sound, Avhere, for a distance
of about seventy inilcs, a charming panorama greets the eye.

THE CITY OF MALMO,

459

Some fifteen miles frora Skanor, nearly opposite Copen
hagen, is the city of Malmo, in lat. 55° 36', Avitb a population
of 36,000. It is one of the most fionrishing towns of Scandi
navia, exporting annually great quantities of grain and spirits.

,P---

INTEEIOE OF SKANOK OHUBOU.

It is the largest city in Southern Sweden, and is rising in im-
portance yeariy by the extension of its commerce and man-

460 THE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN.
ufactures. It contains a cotton-raill, a machine shop, a glove
factory, and other industrial establishments. It was known in
1259 under the name of Malmenhauge ; its fortifications were
finished in 1434, The Church of St, Peter, founded in 1319,
and rebuilt in 1847-53, is worth a visit, its transepts being ex
tremely beautiful and light in forra. It is in pure pointed-
arch style, and was founded in 1319 : in this church the Lu
theran confession was first promulgated. The Radhus (City
Hall) was built in 1546, and renovated in 1867-69, in Re
naissance style. It is remarkable not only for its handsorae
exterior but for its raagnificent festival hall, the so-called
Knutshall (Canute's Hall), in which forraerly the St. Knut
Guild held its meetings : this is 100 feet long, 19 wide, and
12 high. The St. Knut Guild was a powerful society, every
raember of which was equal to six witnesses before a court
of justice. These guilds were exceedingly popular in North
ern Europe, and were nuraerous. Wisby, as has already been
said, possessed many of them, each under a patron saint ; but
religion comprised a very small part of the system under
which they were established, conviviality being apparently the
chief object of their raerabers. The beautiful drinking-cups
of tbe order, preserved in Malmo, furnish evidence on this
point. The ancient guild of St. Knut was founded in 1100,
and the branch in Malmo dates from about 1360. The regu
lations of the brotherhood bound its members to help one an
other. When a brother was to appear before the king, a court
of justice, or a bishop, twelve of his fellows accompanied him,
arraed to the teeth, and did not leave him until he was safe.
If one of their number killed a raan, all were bound to aid
hira in his flight, providing him with a horse or other means
of escape ; for in those days the taking of human life for re
venge was not considered disgraceful, and in nothing, perhaps,
has greater progress been made than in the protection of life.
Kings, princes, and princesses who loved the pleasure of the
table and convivial life joined these fraternities.
Malmo Castle, dating from 1537, serves at present as bar
racks for the garrison of the town, and as a prison. In the
castle Count Bothwell, the third husband of Mary Stuart, was

HELSINGBOkG, 461
kept a prisoner. ToAvards the end of the sixteenth century
the herring-fishery, once a source of great profit, fell off. After
the terrible plague which swept over the country Malrao rap
idly dwindled. At the end of the seventeenth century the
toAvn numbered only 2000 inhabitants, but it is again rising
fast into prosperity.
The surroundings of Malmo are flat and bare of trees, but,
like the greater part of Southern Skane, very fertile. There are
no large estates in its immediate neighborhood, and the farms,
as a general rule, are sraall. But a few railes south-east are a
number of estates, among thera Torup, a chateau surrounded by
a moat, Avith its pinnacled gables, and solid round and octag
onal watch-towers, Avhich have stood the blasts of over three
centuries; it lies in a meadow encompassed by beech Avoods.
Borringekloster, Skabersjo, and many others are found in that
vicinity. North of Malmo is the town of Landskrona, founded in
1413 by King Erik XIIL, with a population of nearly 9000
inhabitants. The harbor is good; the manufacture of beet-
sugar is carried on here. The fort, built in 1543, surrounded
by a moat, still reraains, and is now used as a prison for crimi
nals under long sentence. These are constantly eraployed, and
a careful register of their conduct is kept. A few railes north
of the city, in the sound, is the island of Hven, Avhere the re
nowned astronomer Tycho Brahe lived ; but few traces remain
of his princely castle, Uranienborg, and observatory of Stelle-
borg. About fourteen miles north-east of Landskrona lies the
estate of Knutstorp, remarkable as the birthplace of Tycho
Brahe. Continuing the sail, one comes to Helsingborg, with a pop
ulation of 9000, in tbe narrowest part of the Oresund, which
here has a width of about three railes. The harbor is tine,
and the toAvn flourishing. In olden tiraes, like other cities of
the southern peninsula, it was an important trading mart, but
has gradually deteriorated. The old town Avas situated Avhere
the toAver of Karnan still stands ; but, after a great fire in
1425, it was rebuilt on the present site. Three miles south
east of Helsingborg, in an exceedingly pretty neighborhood.

462 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN,
is the mineral spring of Ramlosa. The spring issues frora a
sandstone rock about eighteen feet high, and is efficacious in
the cure of many diseases. The place bas a beautiful park,
and offers frora several points very fine views.
About four miles from the city is the new palace of So-
fiero, the suramer residence of the present queen. The vicAV
over the sound is raagnificent. About tAvo miles beyond one
comes to the fine estate of Kulla-Gunnarstorp, belonging to
Baron Platen, with an old castle erected in 1562, and a new
one which is one of the most valuable and beautiful of SAve
den, Farther on is the estate of Wrams Gunnarstorp, with con
siderable forest, and surrounded by a beautiful country. Fol
lowing the coast northward, about fifteen miles from Helsing
borg are the coal-mines of Hoganas, Avhich were worked as ear
ly as 1650, and which now have a depth of 320 feet. The
coal in quality is inferior to the English. The mine also yields
fire-clays, from which bricks and stoneware are manufactured :
the works form quite a little town. Here one sees the same
thoughtful care, met everywhere in Sweden, of the employers
towards their Avorkingmen. Everything is done to elevate
thera; their houses are clean and healthy; a public garden has
been made for their benefit, and the miners and their families
are contented and happy ; schools for them are not forgotten,
and there is also a church.
Ten railes north-east of Malmo, on the line of railway to
Stockholm, is the city of Lund, formerly called Lunden, "the
grove," and Londinum Gothorum — the only inland city of
SkSne except Christianstad: this place is said to have had
200,000 inhabitants. There is an old saying that when Christ
AA'as born Skanor and Lund were already in harvest, meaning
that they were already prosperous. About the year 900 it
is mentioned as rich and fortified. It is situated in a fertile
plain, on the little river llojeS., av liich formerly was naviga
ble for large vessels; during Viking times their fleets sailed
up to the town. In 1048 it received its first bishop, Henrik,
under Avhora the cathedral Avas commenced; in 1107 it be
came the seat of the first archbishop, Asker, Avho was pri
mate of tho North. Lund Avas then called ILetropolis Daiiim,

THE UNIVERSITY TOWN OF LUND. 403
and Avas the place of residence and coronation of many kings.
After the mediaeval age it began to decline rapidly, so that
A\'hen acquired by the Swedes, in 1652, it was littie raore than
a village. It soon after began to rise again ; in 1668 a uni
versity was inaugurated there, and at present the city is con
stantly advancing. Here are the principal hospitals of SkSne,
the nuraerous university buildings, raany lower schools, and
an institute for the deaf and dumb. This old university toAvn
has now a population of nearly 12,000. The chief building
of interest is the Cathedral of St. Lars, 271 feet long and 72
high, in the shape of a cross, of pure round-arched style, with
two toAvers formerly surmounted by high spires ; it Avas in
augurated in 1145. The inner perspective of the church is
very fine, which is probably caused by its being wider at the
Avest end than at the east ; besides which, the floor impercep
tibly rises from the sides towards the middle about a foot
and a half. The chancel is the most beautiful and majestic
part of the church, with its open rows of pillars and its pin
nacles symbolizing the thorn -croAvn of Christ. The inner
vault of the structure rests on 18 pillars, in two rows. The
pulpit and altar ornaments are of the mediaeval age, and are
quite valuable. Perhaps more remarkable than the church
itself is the crypt, extending under the entire chancel, with a
length of 126 feet, 36 in width and 14 in height. It is light
ed by 10 windows, and is supported by 24 pillars ; it is one of
the largest crypts in the world. The university has a fine
library, and an historical museura of Northern antiquities.
The country around Lund is rich in fine estates A^nth old
chateaux. On the line of the railroad, about six miles distant,
is the castle of Ortofta, on the bank of the BrS, River. It Avas
built at the beginning of the sixteenth century, and in public
documents the estate is mentioned as early as 1381. Many
historical raemories are connected with it. Ortofta was the
only property in Ski,ne whose owner had birkeratt, i. e., full
jurisdiction over his dependents and subordinates, and the right
to all fines ; he was free from taxes, but instead had to main
tain a court-house and a place of execution : this right was in
force as late as the seventeenth century. The estate belongs

464

THE LAND OF IHE MIDNIGHT SUN.

to Count Ducker, Around Ortofta are found several grave-
mounds, and near it is the estate of Hviderup, with a castle
built in the sixteenth century : this has for nearly 250 years
belonged to the baronial family of Rarael. South-east of Lund,
between Lund and Ystad, is Dalby Church, forraerly a mon
astery; under the tower is a crypt like that of Lund; in the
church lies buried the Danish king, Harold Heine, who died
in 1080.

Skarhult is a good speciraen of the architecture of the four
teenth century, with lofty towers, pitched roofs, and peculiar
chimneys ; above the archway of the main court, and betAveen
two sculptured coats of arras, is the date (1562) when it was
completed. Not far from Skarhult is the large estate of Lob-
eriid, Avitli a castle, from which in clear weather one can see
across the SkSne plain and the Sound to Copenhagen. The
estate is entailed in the De la Gardie faraily, Avbich is of

IHE SHORES OF IHE RINGSJO. 465
French extraction, and whose history is full of romance. Few
places in the country contain more objects of historical inter
est than Loberod ; they are chiefly trophies of the Thirty Years'
War, including cabinets filled with treasure, old furniture, and
paintings of the Dutch and Flemish schools.
Trollenas, with a large mansion erected in 1659 by Tage
Tott, was forraerly called Nas, and has always belonged to
the families of Tott and Trolle, in which latter it is now en
tailed. It has very fine parks and gardens, and traces of the
former fortifications are still seen. Charles XI. had his head
quarters here in April, 1677. TroUeholm, about twenty miles
north of Lund, is a large estate, comprising nearly 22,000
acres. The castle has four towers, and is surrounded by a
moat with two stone bridges ; the garden is large and fine.
Near and on the shores of the pretty Ringsjo are situated
mauy fine estates Avith old chateaux : among these are Bos-
jokloster, Fulltofta, and Ousbyholm. The first is very old,
and formerly was a nunnery : on this estate is found one of
the largest trees in Sweden, an oak measuring forty feet in
circumference near the root.
One of the most picturesque places in Sk^ne is the prom
ontory of Kullen, extending into the Oresund, and the raost
north-western point of the province. Its extremity was for
merly an island, separated from the main-land by a creek. The
promontory is coraposed of several steep granite hills, rising
like an amphitheatre, the highest being more than 600 feet
above the sea : on this point is a light-house. At the base of
the mountains on the north side near the sea is the Trollh^let
(the witch-hole), a grotto about 100 feet deep. To one who
has been wandering through level and monotonous plains, and
along the flat shores of SkSne, great, indeed, is the change
to this promontory. Frora the highest point of Kullen the
scenery is charming and the view extensive, including the
shores of Skeldervik, with its flshing hamlets and farms,
green hills clad with beech and oak, and fertile meadows —
the Cattegat, and beyond the Oresund, whose shores are lost
in the distance — the coast of Jutland, with Kroneborg and
Helsingor. Among the castles in its neighborhood are Krap-
VOL. II. 2 H

466 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN.
perup, with its towers and ramparts, park and garden ; Vege-
holm, budt in 1630 on the island of that name, whose fortifi
cations have disappeared.
As I stood upon the heights of Kullen, how beautiful was
the scene ! Not a ripple disturbed the sea ; the sun, gorgeous
ly red, was sinking slowly below the horizon. How calra was
that summer evening on the Cattegat, where in olden times
the Viking fleets sailed on their voyages for conquest and
plunder ! As night advanced, the outlines of the coast became
dimmer, and at last were lost in darkness, but with here aud
there a bright light to guide the mariner.
Though I have left much unsaid, I must close these volumes.
Farewell, Scandinavia — Land of the Midnight Sun ! I have
wandered over thy country from north to south ; I have seen
thy gay cities and quiet villages, thy fruitful farms, thy hum
ble cottages ; I have sailed upon thy fjords and lakes ; I have
wended my way in the midst of thy beautiful valleys and
dales ; I have clarabered over thy raajestic mountains ; I have
gazed with awe and wonder upon thy noble glaciers ; I have
stood upon thy grand and rugged coasts and watched the storm-
tossed sea as it dashed with fury upon thy shores.
Never shall I forget the kindness and hospitality of thy
people. The lofty and the lowly — king and peasant — have
united to welcorae the stranger who landed among them. The
many happy days spent among thy good and noble people will
never be forgotten. The memory of the dear friends who
have been so kind to rae will always be cherished.

INDEX.

Aak  i.,19T
Aakteder  i., 261 ; iL, 284
Aardal ijord  1., 252
Action of ice  i., 219
Adelsnas  ii., 394
Administration of justice  i., 438
-idnamuorki-kortje fall  i., 144
Agricultural schools  i., 156, 166 ; ii., 387
Ahus  ii.,449
Aitijarvi  i., S3
Aland  ii., 40
Almindingen maidens  i., 115
Alten fjord  i., 96
Alten Kiver  i.,89; li.,144
Alonda song  ii., 426
Alvastra  ii.,348
Amtmand (governor)  i. , 199, 438
Angennanland  i., 165
Ants  1., 74
Appearance of the Lapps  1., 130 ; ii., 185
Araslof.  ii., 453
Arboga  ii., 320
Arctic atmosphere  i., 91
Arctic birds  L, 92
Arctic seasons  i., 168
Arctic summer climate  i., 149
Arctic sun  i., 145
Arctic vegetation...!., 103, 133, 138, 148,149 ;
ii., 160, 212
Areskntan  i., 185
Arkavaara  ii., 65
Art, works of.  ii., 308, 313, 316, 316, 326
Arvidsjaur  ii., 177
Assedesret (homestead right)  ii., 289
Asarnm  ii., 437
Asbjornsen, Prof.  i., 300
Ascent of North Cape  i., 103
Asen  ii., 260
Aspo  ii., 318, 319
Assebagli  ii., 189
Atvidaberg  ii., 393
Aurland fjord  i., 256
Aurora borealis  i., 148 ; ii., 38, 46
Avalanches  1., 236 ; ii., 298
Awkward adventures  i., 65 ; ii., 60

BiBSTDOA  ii., 207
Ball of the trees  ii., 422, 423
Barfro  11. , 278
Baron von Diiben  i., 141
Bath-house  ii., 206
Beckaskog.  ii., 443
Bengt  ii., 333, 334
Berge  i., 429
Bergen  i., 203
Bersbo copper-mines  ii., 395-398
Betrothals  ii., 418, 419
Bird wanderer  i., 106
Birds tn the Arctic region  i., 92
Birger Jarl  ii., 333, 334
Birger Persson  ii., 334, 335
Biika  ii., 312
Birki  ii., 194
Birth ot a child  1., 405
Bjolstad  ii., 285
Bjoiko;  ii., 312
Bjorn Vand sseter  L, 292
Blekinge  ii., 415
Blekinge, character of  ii., 404
Boats and boatmen  i.,71, 86
Bodo  i., 108
Bohuslan  ii., 367
Bo Jonsson  ii., 340-347
Bo Jonsson, his great wealth  ii., 340-343
Bolke8j5  i., 421
Bo-marken  i., 314
Bonde etiquette  i.,40O; ii., 29
Boren Lake  ii., 333
Borgholm  ii., 409, 410
Borgund, church of  i., 396
Borstorp  ii., 354, 355
Bosekop  ¦•, 93
Branvin frolic  i., 425
Bread, kinds o£  ,  i., 6, 39, 394, 395
Bridal party  i., 264
Broms Olof Larson  ii., 221
Bronze age graves  i., 346-353
Bner-brseen glacier  1., 278
Bundling  i.,430; ii., 26, 66
Burial customs  ii.,436
Bygdin Lake  ii., 305
2 H 2

468

INDEX.

Campino ont  i., 134, 136
Canute  ii., 303, 411
Card parties  ii., 47
Carl XV  i., 29, 35
Carnivorous cattle  i., 101
Cariole  i., 112
Castle of Upsala  i., 327
Cathedral at Upsala  1.. 319, 322
Certificates of character  ii.,41T
Characteristics of the Lapps. . . .ii., 91, 93,
94, 169, 171
Chateaux, old  ii., 308
Cheese, kinds of.  i., 395, 396
Children as laborers  ii., 374
Children in Lapland  ii., 95
Chorus singing  i., 321, 828
Christiania  i.,297; ii., 3
Christiansand  i., 414
Christianstad  ii., 449
Christmas in Scandinavia  ii., 4-9
Church relics  ii., 356-362
Cimbrishamn  ii., 453
Clannishness  ii., 262
Climate of Lofoden  ii.,133
Climate of Scandinavia  ii., 135
Cod-flshery  ii., 117, 119, 129, 146
Cod-liver oil manufactory  ii.,130
Coins, ancient  i.,308
Communications  i.,4.39
Copper-mines  i., 95 ; ii., 218
Costumes  i., 384,400,411,415,418,426 ;
ii., 52, 232, 247, 267, 327, 454
Cow-houses  i.,SO; ii., 56
Cromlechs  i., 836, 342
Dalaene  ii. , 216
Dalby church  ii. , 464
Dalecarlia  li., 216
Dalecarlian fair  ii., 232
Dalecarlian friendship  ii., 249, 252
Dalecarlian wedding  ii., 235
Dalecariians  ii., 216, 242
Dance of the elves  ii., 420-422
Darkness of the nights  i., 433
Deaths, announcement of.  ii., 437
Devastating fires  i., 143
Difficulties of sledge-riding..li., 74, 75, 106,
108,109,180
Diseases  i., 440
Diseases in Lapland  ii., 170
Djupadal  ii., 438
Doctors in Scandinavia  ii., 113, 432
Dovro fjeld  i., 194
Dr.Diiuk  i.,425
Drinking-horns and tankards  ii., 24
Driving reindeer  ii., 73
Drottningholm  ii.,310
Dwarfs  ii., 421, 422

Easteg iu Lapland  ii., 90
Economy House  ii., 452
Education, compulsory  ii., 380
Bid fjord  i., 271-272
Elfdal  ii., 259
Elg-sjo  ii., 263
Elsa Karolina  ii., 64
Elves  ii., 421, 422
Engelbrekt  ii., 321-323
Epitaphs  i., 172, ISO
Erik, son of Gustaf Wasa  ii., 317
Eriksberg  ii., 328
Eskilstuna  ii. , 319
Evil to him who evil thinks., .ii., 206, 206,
207,208,209,210,211
Explanation of Midnight Sun  1., 61-63
Extortion  il., 263, 427
Faabees  i., 239
Fabodar  ii., 264
Faemund-sjo  ii., 264
Fageili  1., 119
Fairs  i., 384 ; ii., Ul, 232
Falsterbo  ii., 458
Falun  ii. , 218
Family names  i., 391
Family scene  i., 393
Farewell  ii., 466
Farm dwellings  i., 00, 154 ; ii., 228
Farmers' food  1., 394-396; ii., 443, 444
Farms in Norway  i., 392
Farms in Sweden  1., 392
Fatigue of reindeer  ii., 107
Feeding birds, Christmas  ii., 6
Feeding catfle  ii., 89
Female drivers  i., 55, 64, 184 ; ii., 51, 63
Filipstad  ii., 362
Finkirken  ii., 155
Finmarken  il., 144
Finn winter dress  ii., 52
Finspong  ii., 374
Fir forests  ii., 185
Fish pudding  i., 159
Fishermen's huts  i., 81, 100 ; ii., 119
Fishing boats  ii., 122, 127
Fishing Lapps  ii., 175
Fishing season  ii., 121
Fjserland  i., 235
Fjords  1., 219, 262
Fleas  i.,lis
Flint implements  i., 384, 842
Folgefonn glacier.  i., 277
Folkhogskolor  ii., 882
Folkskolor  ii., 381-384, 388
Folk-songs, Swedish and Norwegian,
i., 324, 825, 828, 329 ; ii., 412, 423, 427
Folkunga family  ii., 333
Forest Lapps  ii., 174

INDEX.

469

Freedom of the press  i.,439
Proso  i.,lSO
Frnholmen  ii., 158
Fnueral customs  i., 173, 407 ; ii., 186
Galdeene defile  i., 889
Galdho  ii., 303
Game  i., 183 ; ii., 441
Gamleby  ii., 400
Gamme  ii., 102-164, 172
Garde church  i., 315
Gardmo  ii., 295
Games farm  i., 187
Geological changes  i., 226, 316
Geology of Scandinavia  i., 211
GJendiu Lake  ii., 305
Gjusjavre  ii., 190
Glacier of Sulitelma  i., 123, 182
Glaciers  i., 227, 238, 241
Glimminge  ii., 465
Gold lings, meaning of.  ii., 246
Giita canal  ii., 330
Goteborg  1., 5
Gotland  i., 303
Government  i., 435-43S
Graduation at Upsala  i. , 320, 324
Grave-yards  i., 181, 199
Gravedal  i., 266
Graves, prehistoric  i., 306, 834-360, 863
Grebbestad  ii., 369
Grenna  ii., 350
Greta and her daughters  ii., 62
Gripsholm  ii., 313
Grist mills  i., 120
Grod  i., 394
Gudbrandsdal  ii., 13, 267
Gudvangen  i., 257
Gulf of Bothnia  i., 42
Gulf-stream, influence of  ii., 185
Gunnarstorp  ii., 462
Haakenstad  ii.,295
Habits of the Lapps  i., 130 ; ii., 182
Hafverud  ii.,353
Hagby church  ii., 405, 406
Hagesset  ii., 307
Halland  ii., 367
Hailing dance  i., 406
Halmstad  ii., 367, 368
Hamar  ii., 265
Hammerfest  i., 97 ; ii., 152
Hande  ii-, 281
Hans Bredevangen  ii., 26, 32
Haparanda  i.,48; ii., 60
Haparanda school  ii., 379
Harald Haarfager  ii., 15
Hardanger fjord  i., 262
Harmanger  i., 171

Harness for reindeer  ii,, 72
Hassja  i., 160
Haugen  i., 404
Haukelid sseter  i., 433
Havredal  i., 433
Head-dress of Laplanders  li., 71, 91
Hedal valley  ii., 285, 291
Heftye, Consul  i., 299
Height of the Lapps  ii., 95
Helge-Ands church  i,, 312
Helligskoven  ii., 109
Helsingborg  ii., 461
Helsingland  i., 171
Henningsvser  ii., 118, 131
Hernosand  i., 166
Herring fishery  ii., 146-149
High seat  ii., 275
Hjerdkin  i.,195; ii., 15
Hjortshammar  ii., 436
Hoganas coal-mines  ii., 462
Hogklint  i., 316
Holmsuud  i., 155
Honesty of the people  i., 41, 167, 178 ;
ii., 39, 48, 202
Horse, loss of  ii.,306
Hospitality. . .i., 114, 199, 245, 299, 401, 412 ;
ii., 118
Houses of refuge  i.,83; ii., 109
Hovringdal  ii., 268
Hunting in Lapland  ii., 200
Husaby church  ii., 869-861
Husmand  i., 394 ; ii., 216
Husum  i., 391
Hven  ii.,461
loE, action of  i., 219
Idre  ii.,263
ndhus  ii., 272
Independent provinces  ii., 334
Industrial schools  i., 200
Inhospitable reception  i., 283
Innertafle school  i.,168; ii., 44
Innervik  ii., 45
Iron Age antiquities  i., 359-367
Ivor Tofte  ii., 290
Jagmastaee  ii., 40
Jader church  ii., 319
Jemtland  i., 176, 182
Jerrestad  ii., 454
Jockmock  i., 141
Jonkoping  ii-> 849
Jotun Mountains  ii., 302
Journey to the North Cape  i., 63
July festival  ii. , 434
Jukkasjarvi  ii-i 8"
Jnstedal snow-field  i., 238
Jutnl-stue  ii- 282

470

INDEX.

Kalmar  iL, 402-404
Karasjok  iL, 183
Karesuando  ii., 89, 201
Karin, legend of  iL , 410, 424-425
Karlshamn  iL, 436
Karlskrona  ii., 427, 428
Karlstad  iL, 352
Karra  i., 51
Kata in Lapland  i.,124,131; ii., 77
Kautokeino  ii., 196
Kerres  iL, 71
Killing the reindeer  il., 80
Kilpisjarvi  iL, 102
Kindness to animals  L, 58
Kings' mounds; Upsala  L, 819
Kitchen heaps  L, 333
Kjelvig  ii., 153
Kjokkenmoddinger  L, 333
Kjorgosj Njarg  ii., 155
Knubb farm  iL, 228
Knutby church  iL, 326
Kongelf.  iL, 366
Kongsberg  L, 420
Korpikyla  iL, 51
Korpilombolo  iL, 62
Korterud  ii., 280
Kristinebamn  ii., 352
Krokengaard  L, 244
Kullen  iL, 465
Kuttainen  iL, 201
L.EEnALSOEEN  L, 384, 389
Landskrona  ii., 461
Lapland dress  i., 122,127
Lapland sledges  ii., 72
Lapland winter costumes  ii., 69
Lapp babies  IL, 197
Lapp cradle  ii., 196
Lapp dogs  ii., si
Lapp encampment  L, 124, 131 ; ii., 78, 193
Lapp girls  ii., 93, 94, 95
Lapp hospitality  L,124; iL,7S, 79
Lapp men  ii., 96, 97
Lapp shoes  ii., 203
Lapp women  ii.,94, 95
Larsen and family  L, 119
Laxe fjord  ii., 156
Leckij  ii. , 364
Legend of the " brown horse "  L, 427
Leiradal valley  ii. , 304
Leksand  iL, 220-222,226, 227, 284
Lemmings  ii., 269
Leprosy  L,440, 441
Letters of love  ii., 260
Levangcr  i., 188
Life at the sseters  L, 281, 286, 292 ; ii., 266
Life in Lapland  '.  ii., 82
Lillehammer  ii., 266

Lindesnses  i, 410
Linkoping  ii., 392
Lione  L, 269
Ljungby  ii., 446
Loberod  ii., 464
Lodal glacier  i., 240
Lodingen  iL, lie'
Lodose, town of.  ii., 366
Lofoden islands  iL, 115
Liikkre  iL, 300
Lom  iL, 297
Lost in the snow  iL, 101
Lnlea  L, 146
Lulea Lappmark.  L, 142
Lund  iL, 462
Lunden  iL, 245
Lyngen Ijord  iL, 112
Lysne portal  L, 389
Mageeo  i., 100 : ii., 168
Maglestone  iL, 446
Malar Lake  L, 13 ; IL, 810
Malmo  IL, 459
Malstrom  iL, 115
Maltesholm  ii., 463
Mandal house  ii., 283
Marriage customs  L, 205 ; li., 234
Marstrand  iL, 870
Mask of ice  ii., 106
May festivals  ii., 411^14
Medevi  iL, 836
Mesna River  .ii., 267
Midnight Sun  i., 2, 61-64, 70, 73, 106, 107
Midsummer in Sweden  iL, 234
Milking reindeer  L,129
Mjos Vand  L, 424
Mjosen, Lake  iL, 265
Moen  L, 254
Molde  L, 198
Molde Cord  i. , 1 97
Mora  ii., 230
Mora costume  ii.,231
Mork-foss  i., 265
Miirrum River  ij.^ 435
Mosquitoes  L, 57
Moss tracts  ii., 167
Motala.  ii., 336
Monntain storm  ii., 105
Movement of glaciers  1., 241
Mud-bath  ii., 432
Mukkavuoma  iL, 103
Muonio River  L,69; ii., 65
Muonioniska  i., 75
Muonionalusta.  L, 76; iL, 66
Muoniovaara  i., 75 ; ii., 67
Mushrooms  ii., 405
Nj5e6 Qord  L, 26S

INDEX.

471

NairOdal  i., 258
Nses  ii., 299
Names of men and women  L, 163 ;
ii., 247, 446
Nasbo  ii., 350
Nertrost  L, 405
Nettraby  ii., 428
Niomelsaska fall  i., 144
Niavvi  L, 139
Niemis  ii., 65
Nikkala  ii., 49
Nils Piersen  ii., iss
Nils Tune.  i.,402
Njalla  iL,177
Njungis  L, 135
Nora  L, 169 ; ii., 323
Nordkyn  ii. , 156
Nordland  ii., 143
Nordvik  L, 166
Norrkoping  ii., 372
Norrland  iL, 38
Norse costume, prehistoric  L, 362
North Cape  L, 103
Northmen  L, 363
Norwegian bonder. .L, 232, 40O ; ii. , 19, 23,27, 30
Norwegian character  L, 260, 2S9
Norwegian clergymen  i., 403
Norwegian etiquette  i. , 400, 404
Norwegian frontier  L, 186
Norwegian hamlets  L, 262
Norwegian households. .L, 247 ; ii., 16, 19,23, 27
Norwegian legends  L, 117
Norwegian monntains  ii. , 302
Norwegian roads  L, 189
Norwegian sleighs  ii., 10
Norwegian songs  iL, 20
Norwegian steamers  L, 233
Norwegian towns  L, 412
Nybodo  ii., 261
Nyborg  ii., 162
Nygaard glacier  ,  L, 239
Nystue  ii., 276
Nystuen  '.  i. , 398
Oath, administration of  i., 413
Oath of defence  iL, 418
Odalsret (allodial right)  iL, 289
Odde  L,434
Ofvedskloster  iL, 466
Olaf Skotkonung's tomb  ii., 361
Oland  iL,40S
Old buildings of Nonvay  ii., 271
Opstugu  ii., 279
Orebro  ii., 320
Ornaments, prehistoric  L, 352
Orsa  ii., 245, 247, 249

f)rtofta  ii., 453
Oscar II  ii., 35
Ostergotland  ii., 372
Ostersund  i., 177
Ottadal valley  iL, 293
Pace of the reindeer  li., 76
Pajala  i., 66
Palojoki River  i., 77
Parks in Stockholm  i., 20
Parsonages  L, 116, 167; ii., 112, 227, 297
Passage graves  L, 336
Pastor, election of  ii., 260
Pasvig  ii., 161
Pehr Wassara  ii., 85
Peis  ii., 274
Piety of the Lofodeu fishermen  ii., 131
Piety of the Scandinavians  ii., 64, 127
Pike  ii. , 213
Pirtiniemi  iL, 60
Pitea  ii., 46
Plague in Scandinavia  L, 426-428
Polmak  IL, 179
Poor laws  L, 172
Porphyry  iL, 259
Post-station  i. , 50-52
Pottery, prehistoric  L, 348
Preaching peddlers  !., 162
Prehistoric implements, etc  i.,333, 342,348
Prehistorio^an iu Scandinavia  i., 305, 881
Prest Konow  L, 402
Prices in Sweden  L, 157
Primitive customs  i.,111; ii., 205
Prisons  L, 146
Prof. Kjerulf.  L, 94, 223
Ptarmigan  ii., 201
Public buildings in Stockholm  L, 24
Public commons  ii., 251
Public schools  L, 26, 166, 166, 206
Public warm baths  ii., 208
Pulkas  ii., 72
Queen Philippa  iL, 333
Qvickjock  L, 137
Rahelof  iL, 460
Rada church  iL, 352, 353
Railroad dinner  L, 10
Railroad festival  L, 177
Ramloft  iL, 277, 27S
Ramlosa  iL, 402
Rattvik  ii., 267
Raudland  i., 427
Red snow  i., 291
Reindeer  i-, 137
Reindeer, characteristics of.  ii., 197-199
Reindeer, number of  ii., 108
Reindeer cheese  L, 129

472

INDEX.

Reindeer holes  ii., 86
Reindeer marks  ii., 168
Reindeer milk  L, 129
Reindeer pastures  ii., 84
Reindeer swimming  L, 126
Ringedal-fosB  ,  L, 276
Eisinge church  iL, 372, 373
River Lapps  iL, 174, 182
Rjukandfoss  L, 422
Roads  L, 439
Rock drawings  L, 351, 365
Rogovn  li. , 273
Eiigstue  ii., 272
Roldal  L, 285, 484
Romsdal  i., 196
Ronneby  ii., 430
Ronuog's letter  iL, 31
Roros  ii., 265
Rosendal  L, 263
Rosheim  ii., 303
Ruins  L, 806, 310
Runic alphabet  i.,366
Runic stones.  L,364, 371-373, 377
Ruskola  i.,56; IL, 56
Russian Lapland.  ii., S4, 165
Saby  iL , 345
Sseters  L, 280, 287, 290, 292; ii., 254, 268
Ssetersdal  L, 414-417
Safstaholm  ii., 328
Saiwits  ii., 49
Salmon  L, 67, 390
Saltdal  L, 11 0
Samson Fiskekjon  L, 282
Sandbo  ii. , 293
Sankt Lars church  i., 311
Sarna  ¦  ii., 263
Siiro  ii., 369, 370
Sattajiirvi  L, 64 ; iL, 63, 213
Saturday bath  iL, 209
Scandinavia, features of  L, 1
Scandinavian dishes  L, 159
Scandinavian geology  i., 211
Scandinavian glaciers  L, 227, 238, 240, 242
Scania  ii., 441
Scania, farmers of  ii., 443
Scania, houses of  ii., 442
Scania, names in  ii., 445
Science, the aim of  L, 317
School at Norrkoping  ii., 375
School exercises  iL,383
School statistics  ii., 380, 381, 390
Schools  L, 20, 156, 106, 206
Schools in Sweden and Norway... ii., 378-391
Sea-bathing resorts  iL, 370, 371
Sea Lapps  ii.,172
Sea marks  i., 222, 816
Seal-catching  ii., 149

Selsjord  ii., 27
Servants  i., 209, 391
Servants, laws regarding  iL, 452
Shelter stations  L, 89
Shoe-grass  L, 132
Sigtuna  ii., 324
Sikavuopio  ii., 101
Silgjord  L, 422, 423
Sinking of the laud  L, 222,310
Sirma  iL, ISO
Skanor  ii., 457
Skara  ii., 863
Skarhult  ii., 464
Skeaker valley  ii., 298
Skelleftea  ii., 45
Skibotten  ii., 99, 110
Skjena  ii., 30
Skokloster  iL, 324
Skradder  li., 243
Sleepers in chnrch  iL, 262
Slette  iL,2S5
Smaland  ii., 399, 405
Smorgas  '.  L, 6
Smygge  iL, 467
Snow-ploughs  iL, 42
Snow scenery  iL, 3S
Snow-shoes  ii., 57, S2
Snow-storms  ii., 43, 51, 102, 104
Sod houses  iL, 162-164, 172
Sofdeborg  ii., 466
Sogndal  L, 236
Sogne fjord  L, 231
Sougadal  L, 431
Songamuodka  iL, 202
Sor fjord  i., 273
Southern Norway  L, 41U
Spar-house  iL, 2S0
Sparreholm  ij., 329
Speculation in timber  i., 163
Speed of reindeer  ii., 199
Spirits, sale of  iL, 434
St. Birgitta church  iL, 339
St. Kmit's guild  ii., 460
St. Lars catliedral  ii., 403
St. Nicholas church  i., 313
St. Olaf  L, 18S
Stabbur  L, 419 ; iL, 277
Stadshuset  ii., 45
Stalheim road  L, 269
Stamsund  iL, 129
Statistics: fishing aud shipping  iL, 160
Stave-dimches  ii., 2S0
Stenhammar  ii., 329
Stiklestad  L, 1S8
Stjernarp  ii., 832
Stockholm  L, 13; ii., 35
Stone age  L,332
Stone age graves  L, 334

INDEX.

473

stone coffins  L, 337
Stora Sundby  ii., 327,328
Storbo-sjo  ii., 203
Storjord  L, 116
Storthing (legislative assembly)  i., 436
Stoves  ii., 36, 274
Street scenes  L, 205
Strengnas  ii , S19
Stromsholm  ii., 324
Sudden storm  iL, 806
Suledal valley  L, 233
Sulitelma  '  i., 122, 132
Sunday at a s;Eter  L,2S8
Sunday in Scandinavia  l.,22, 209; iL, 291
Sundsvall  ii., 40
Surprise-party  ii., 25
SvEerhoIdt  iL, 164
Svo  iL,294
Sven  ii., 363
Svolvser  ii., 117
Swedish clergy  L, 109
Swedish dinner  L, 7, 167, 324
Swedish etiqnette  i., 15
Swedish Lapland  ii.,166
Swedish mails  ii., 38
Swedish navy  ii.,428
Swedish railroads  L, 9, 439
Swedish sleighs  ii., 37
Swedish spas  ii.,431
Swedish stations  L, 60
Swedish steamers  i., 38, 46
Swedish stoves  iL, 35
Swedish watchmen  ii., 393
Tables of Midnight Sun  L, 107
Tana fjord  ii., idb
Tana River  i L, 178
Tar manufacture  L, 74
Taunforssen  L, 186
Teachers' party  ii., 376
Teachers' schools  ii., 386
Technical schools  ii., 336, 387
Temperature of the sea  ii., 135
Temperature on land  iL,139
Temperature, rapid changes of  iL, 212
Terraces  L, 220, 225
Thelemarken  L, 418
Thirteen days of Yule  ii., 4
Thord. . . ,  ii., 14, 16
Thunder-storms  ii., 141
Tidiness ofthe jieopte  ii.,417
Titles of nobility  i. , 16
Tofte  ii., 14, 15
Tofte famUy  iL, 286-290
Toftemoen  iL, 16
Tokens of remembrance. . .L, 383, 403 ; ii., 214
Torbert Mikkelsen  ii., 264
Tornea Lappmark  iL, 90
VOL. II.

Torpare  i.,.'i94; ii., 218
Tosterup  ii., 466
Totak Lake  L, 426
Training reindeer  ii., 83
Travelling in winter  ii., 11, 33, 37, 52
Travelling regulations.. L, 52, 69, 112; ii., 93
Trelleborg  ii., 457
Trolle Ljungby  IL, 445
TroUeholm  iL, 465
Trollenas  IL, 465
Trollhattan falls  ii., 365
Trolls, stories of  iL, 440
Tromso  L, 108 ; iL, 113
Trondhjem  L, 191
Trondhjem fjord  L, 137
Trout  L, 119. 425
Tullgarn  ii., o31
Tvindefoss  L, 260
Twilight  L, 5, 19, 103
Tycho Brahe  ii., 461
Tyen Lake  ii., 305
Tyssedal-foss  L, 275
Ulfasa  ii., 333
Ulrilisdal  i., 83
Ulsvold  li., 270
Ulvik  i., 266
Umea.  L, 155 ; IL, 44
Universities  ii., 390, 391
University of Upsala  L, 318-320
Uprising ofthe land  L, 222, 316
Upsala  L, 318
Utmeland  ii., 231
Utsjoki  ii., 181
Vaage  iL, 293
Vadso  ii.,15S
Vadstena  ii., 387, 340-343, 347, 343
Valdai valley and saiters  i , '>8£
Valders  i., 399
Valhall  ii-,437
Valsjo  ii., 433
Vang  L, 399, 401, 407-409
Vangsgarde  ii.,243
Varanger fjord  ii., 100
Vardo  ¦  iL, 166
Vardo fort  ii., 167
Varnanas  ii., 407
Varnhem  ii., 364
Vangsnses  L, 235
Vehicles  i., 60, 112
Venset  i-, 109
Ventilation  ii., 433
Vesteras  ii. , 321, 323
Vetti-foss  L, 256
Vexio  ii., 399, 400
Vik  i.,271
Viking age and antiquities  L, 368-377
2 I

474

INDEX.

Viking arms  L,371
Viking burial  L, 370
Viking graves  L, 365, 876-383, ii., 436
Viking houses and forts  L, 874, 375
Viking ships  '  L, 877-383
Vinje  L,269
Visdal valley  ii., 803
Visingsborg  ii.,360
Visits to the King  L, 30, 33
Voriug-foss  L, 272
Vossevangen  L, 260
Voxtorp church  ii., 406, 407
Vuokainen  iL, 100
Wateefallb. .L, 186, 192, 197, 268, 200, 272, 275, 276
Wedding  ii., 235
Wenern lake  ii., 361

Wertmiiller  iL, 310
Westanor  iL, 234
Westervik  ii., 401
Wettern Lake  ii., 337
Whitsunday  ii., 212
Widows  ii., 235
Widtskofie  iL, 453
Wild animals  i., 183
Wingaker  iL, 327
Winter amusements  ii., 47
Winter night in the North  L, 2 ; ii., 1
Wisby  L, 303-313
Women in the fields  iL, 413, 419
Wood pulp, for paper  ii., 433
Wrangel family  iL, 326
Wreta church  iL, 832
Ystad  iL, 4.56

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BLUNT (Eev. J. J.). Undesigned Coincidences in the Writings of
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 History of the Christian Church in the First Three
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The Stuarts.
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History.
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LIST OF WORKS

BUUGSCH (Professor). A History of Egypt, under the
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Exodus of the Israelites. Translated by Philip Smith, B.A. 2nd
Edition. Maps. 2 vols. Svo. 32s.
BUNBUEY (E. H.). A History of Ancient Geography, among the
Greeks and Romans, from tbe Earliest Ages till tbe Fall of the Roman
Empire. With Index and 20 Maps. 2 Vole. Svo. 42s.
BUEBIDGE (P. W.). The Gardens of the Snn: or A Naturalist's
Journal on the Monntains and in fhe Forests and Swamps of Borneo and
the Sulu Archipelago. With Illustrations. Crown Svo. 14s.
BUECKHAEDT'S Cicerone ; or Art Guide to Painting in Italy.
Translated from tbe German by Mrs. A. Clough. New Edition, revised
byJ. A. Crowe. Post Svo. 6s.
BUEN (Col.). Dictionary of Naval and ^Military Technical
Terms, English and French — French and Englisb. Crown Svo. 15s.
BUTTMANN'S Lexilogus; a Critical Examination of the
Meaning of numerous Greek Words, chiefly in Homer and Hesiod.
By Rev. J. R. Pishlakb. Svo. 12s.
BUXTON (Charles). Memoirs of Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton,
Bart. Portrait. Svo. les. Popular Edition. Fcap. Svo. 6s.
.  (Sydney C). A Handbook to the Political Questions
of the Day ; with the Arguments on Either Side. Svo. 5s.
BYLES (Sir John). Foundations of Eeligion iu the Mind and
Pleart of Man. Post Svo. 6s.
BYRON'S (Lord) LIFE AND WOEKS :—
Life, Letters, and Journals. By Thomas Moobe. Cabinet
Edition. Plates. 6 Vols. Fcap. Svo. 18s.; or One Volume, Portraits.
Eoyal Svo., 7». 6d.
Life and Poetical Works. Popular Edition. Portraits.
2 vols. Royal Svo. 15s.
Poetical Works. Library Edition. Portrait. 6 Vols. Svo. iSs.
Poetical Works. Cabinet Edition. Plates. 10 Vole. 12mo. 30s.
Poetical Works. Pocket Ed. 8 Vols. 16mo. In a case. 21s.
Poetical Works. Popular Edition. Plates. Eoyal Svo. 7s. 6d.
Poetical Works. Pearl Edition. Crown Svo. 2s, 6d.
CniLDE Harold. With 80 Engravings. Crown Svo. 12s.
CiiiLDE Harold. 16mo. 2s. 6d.
CniLDB Harold. Vignettes. 16mo. Is.
CniLDE Harold. Portrait. 16mo. 6d.
Tales and Poems. 16mo. 2s. 6d,
Miscellaneous. 2 Vols. 16mo. fis.
Dramas and Plays. 2 Vols. 16mo. 6s.
Don Juan and Beppo. 2 Vols. 16mo. 6s.
Beauties. Poetry and Prose. Portrait. Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d.
CAMPBELL (Lord). Life : Based on his Autobiography, with
selections from Jonrnsls, and Correspondence. Edited by Mrs. , Hard-
castle. Portrait. 2 Vols. Svo. 30s.
 Lord Chancellors and Keepers of the Great
Seal of England. From the Earliest Times to the Death of Lord Eldon
in 1838. 10 Vola. Crown Svo. 6s. each.
Chief Justices of England. From the Norman

Conquest to the Deatli of LordTenterden. 4 Vols. CrxiwnSvo. 68.eack.
 (Thos.) Essay on English Poetry. With Short
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CAENAEVON (Lord). Portugal, Gallicia, and the Basque
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 The Agamemnon : Translated from .SSsohylus.
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CAENOT-A. (Conde da). Memoirs of the Life and Eventful Career
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CAETWEIGHT (W. C). The Jesuits: their Constitution aud
Teaching. An Historical Sketch. Svo. 9s.
CAVALCASELLE'S WORKS. [See Crowe.]
CESNOLA (Gen.). Cyprus; its Ancient Cities, Tombs, and Tem
ples. Researches and Excavations during Ten Years' Residence in that
Island. With 400 Illustrations. Medium Svo. 50s.
CHILD (Chaplin). Benedicite ; or. Song of the Three Children ;
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CHISHOLM (Mrs.). Perils of the Polar Seas; True Stories of
Arctic Discovery and Adventure. Illustrations. Post Svo. 6i.
CHUETON (Archdeacon). Poetical Eemains, Translations and
Imitations. Portrait. Post Svo. 7s. Gd.
CLASSIC PKEACHIShS OF THE ENGLISH CHUECH.
Being Lectures deliverpd at St. James', Westminster, in 1877-8.
By Eminent Divines. With Introduction by J. E. ICempe. 2 Vols.
Post Svo. 7s. Gd. each.
OLIVE'S (Lord) Life. By Eev. G. E. Gleiq. Post Svo. 3s. 6d.
CLODE (C. M.). Military Forces of the Crown ; their Administra
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 Administration of Justice under Military and Martial
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Svo. 12s.
COLEEIDGE'S (Samuel Taylor) Table-Talk. Portrait. 12mo. 3s. 6<^.
COLONIAL LIBEAEY. [See Home and Colonial Library.]
COMPANIONS FOE THE DEVOUT LIFE. Lectures on well-
known Devotional Works. By Eminent Divines. With Preface by
J. E. Kempe, M. A. Crown Svo.
De imitatione Christi.
PENSfiEs of Blaise Pascal.
S. Franijois di Sales.
Baxter's Saints' Rest.
S.Augustine's Confessions.
Jeremy Taylor's Holy Living and
Dying.

Theologia Germanica.
FfisfiLON's CEuvBEs Spirituelles.
Andrewes' Devotions.
Christian Year.
Paradise Lost.
Pilgrim's Progress.
Prayer Book.

CONVOCATION PEAYEE-BOOK. (See Prayer-Book.)
COOKE (E. W.). Leaves from my Sketch-Book. Being a Selec
tion from Sketches made during many Tours. With Descriptive Text.
50 Plates. 2 Vels. Small folio. 31s. Gd. each.
COOKEKY (Modern Domestic). Founde^ on Principles of Economy
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CEABBE (Eev. Georoe). Life & Poetical Works. Illustrations.
Royal Svo. 7s.
CEIPPS (Wilfred). Old English Plate : Ecclesiastical, Decorative,
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Letters, <feo. New Edition. With 70 Illustrations. Medium Svo. 16s.
 Old French Plate; Furnishing Tables of the Paris Date
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CEOKEE (J. W.). Progressive Geography for Children,
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 ¦  BoBwell's Life of Johnson. Including the Tour to the
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 Historical Essay on the Guillotine. Fcap. Svo. Is.

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 History of Painting in North Italy, from 14th to
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 Life and Times of Titian, with some Account of his
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GUMMING (E. Gordon). Five Years of a Hunter's Life iu the
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CUNYNGHAME (Sir Arthur). Travels in the Eastern Caucasus,
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CUETIUS' (Professor) Student's Greek Grammar, for the Upper
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 Accidence of the Greek Language. Extracted from
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 The Greek Verb, its Structure and Development.
Translated by A. S. Wilkins, M,A., anJ E. B. E.ngland, M.A.
Svo. 18s.

CUPiZON (Hon. Eobert). Visits to the Monasteries of the Levant.
Illustrations. Post Svo. Ts. Gd.
OUST (General). Warriors ofthe 17th Century— TheThirty Years'
War. 2 Vols. 16s. Civil Wars of France and England. 2 Vols. 16s.
Commandersof Fleets and Aimies. 2 Vols, 18s.
 Annals of the Wars — 18th & 19th Century.
With Maps. 9 Vols. Post Svo. 6s. each.
DAVY (Sir Humphry). Consolations in Travel; or. Last Days
of a Philosopher. Woodcuts. Fcap. Svo. 3s. Gd.
 Salmonia; or. Days of Fly Fishing. Woodcuts.
Fcap. Svo. 3s. Gd.
DE COSSON (B. A.). The Cradle of the Blue Nile; a Journey
through Abyssinia and Snudan, and a Residence at the Court of King
John of Ethiopia. Mapand Illustrations. 2 vols. PostSvo. 21s.
DENNIS (George). The Cities and Cemeteries of Etruria. A
new Edition, revised, recording all the lAtost Discoveries. With 20
Plans and 200 lllustratious. 2 vols. Medium Svo. 42s.
DENT (Emma). Annals of ^yinchcombe and Sudeley. With 120
Portraits, Plates and Woodcuts. 4to. 425.
DEEBY (Earl of). Iliad of Homer rendered into English
Blank Verse. With Portrait. 2 Vols. PostSvo. IOs.

PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY.

DAEWIN'S (Charles) WOEKS :—
Journal of a Naturalist ddrino a Voyask round the
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Variation op Animals and Plants under Domestication.
Woodcuts. 2 Vols. Crown Svo. ISs.
Descent op Man, and Selection in Eelation to Sex.
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Various Contrivances by which Orchids are Fertilized
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Movements and Habits op Climbinq Plants. Woodcuts,
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Insectivorous Plants. Woodcuts. Crown Svo. 14s.
Efpeots op Cross and Selp-Fertilization in the Veoetaele
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Power op Movement in Plants. Woodcuts. Cr. Svo. 15s.
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Life of Erasmus Darwin. With a Study of his Works by
Ernest Kkause. Portrait. Crown Svo. 7s. Gd.
Facts and Arguments for Darwin. By Fritz Muller.
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DEEEY (Bishop op). Witness ofthe Psalms to Christ and Chris
tianity. The Bampton Lectures for 1876. Svo. 14s.
DEUTSCH (Emanuel). Talmud, Islam, The Targums and other
Literary Remains. With a brief Memoir. Svo. 12s.
DILKE (Sir C. W.). Papers of a Critic. Selected from the
Writings of the late Chas. Wentworth Dilke. With a Biographi
cal Sketch. 2 Vola. Svo. 24s.
DOG-BEBAKING. [See Hutchinson.]
DOMESTIC MODEEN COOKEEY. Founded on Principles of
Economy and Practical Knowledge, and adapted for Private Families.
Woodcuts. Fcap. Svo. 5s.
DOUGLAS'S (Sir Howard) Theory and Practice of Gunnery.
Plates. Svo. 21s.
 (Wm.) Horse-Shoeing; As itis, and As it Should be.
Illustrations. Post Svo. 7s. Gd.
DEAKE'S (Sir Fbahois) Life, Voyages, and Exploit, by Sea and
Land. By John Baeeow. Post Svo. 2s.
DEINKWATEE (John). History of the Siege of Gibraltar,
1779-1783. With a Description and Account of that Garrison from the
Earliest Periods. Post Svo. 2s.

10 . LIST OF WORKS

DUCANGE'S llEDiiEVAL Latin-English Dictionary. Ee-arranged
and Edited, in accortJ ance with the modem Science of Philology, by Rev.
E.A. Dayman and J.H.Hessels. SmalUto. lln Preparation.
DU CHAILLU (Paul B.). The Land ofthe Midnight Sun ; Summer
and Winter Journeys through Sweden, Norway, Lapland, and Nortbera
Finland, with Descriptions of the Inner Lite of tbe People, their
Manners and Customs, tbe Primitive Antiquities, &c., &c. With Map
and 235 Illustrations. 2 Vols. Svo.
 EtjDATORiAL Africa, with Accounts of the
Gorilla, the Nest-building Ape, Chimpanzee, Crocodile, &c. Illus-
tratiens. Svo. 21s.
Journey to Ashango Land; and Further Pene

tration into Equatorial Africa. Illustratioas. Svo. 21s.
DUFFEEIN (Lord). Letters from High Latitudes; a Yacht
Voyage to Iceland, Jan Mayen, and Spitzbergen. Woodcuts. Post
Svo. 7s. Gd.
 ¦¦  Speeches and Addresses, Political and Literary,
delivered in the House of Lords, in Canada, and elsewhere. Svo.
[In the Press.
DUNCAN (Major). History of the Eojal Artillery. Com
piled from the Original Records. Portraits. 2 Vols. 8vo. 18s.
¦ English in Spain; or. The Story of ihe War of Suc
cession, 1834-1840. Compiled from tbe Reports of the British Com
missioners, With Illustrations. Svo. 16s.
DUEEE (Albert) ; his Life, with a History of his Art. By Dr.
Thausing, Keeper of Archduke Albert's Art Collection at Vienna.
Translated from the German. With Portrait and Illustrations. 2 vols.
Medium Svo,
EASTLAKE (Sir Charles). Contributions to the Literature of
the Fine Arts. With Memoir of the Author, and Selections from his
Correspondence. By Lauy Eastlakb. 2 Vols. Svo. 24s.
EDWAEDS (W. H.). Voyage up the Elver Amazon, inclnding a
Visit to Para. Post Svo. 2s.
ELDON'S (Lord) Public and Private Life, with Selections from
his Diaries, &c. By Horace Twiss. Portrait. 2 Vols. PostSvo. 2l3.
ELGIN (Lord). Letters and Journals. Edited by Theodore
Walrond. With Preface by Dean Stanley. Svo. I4s.
ELLESMEEE (Lord). Two Sieges of Vienna by the Turks.
Translated from the German. Post Svo. 2s
ELLIS (W.). Madagascar Eevisited. The Persecutions and
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 Memoir. By His Son. With his Character and
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 (Eoeinson) Poems and Fragments of Catullus. 16mo. 6s.
ELPHINSTONE (Hon. MonNTSTUAEi). History of India— the
Hindoo and Mahomedan Periods. Edited by Professor Cowell.
Map. Svo. 18».
 (H. W.). Patterns for Turning ; Comprising
Elliptical and other Figures ent on the Lathe without the use at any
Oniamental Chuck. With 70 Illustrations. Small 4to. 15s.
ELTON (Capt.) and H. B. COTTEEILL. Adventures and
Discoverios AmoDg the Lakes and Mouiitaius of Eastern aad Ceuiral
Africa. With Map and Illustrations. Svo. 21s.
ENGLAND. [See Authtjb, Cboker, Hume, Markham, Smith,
and Stanhope.]
ESSAYS ON CATHEDRALS. Edited, with an Introduction.
By Dean Howson. 8vo. 12s.

PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. ]l

I PEEGUSSON (James). History of Architecture in all Countries
I from the Earliest Times. With 1.600 Illustrations. 4 Vols. Medium Svo.
I. & II. Ancient and Mediseval. 63«. ^
IIL Indian & Eastern. 425. I"V . Modem. 31s. 6d.
- Ende Stone Monuments in all Countries; their Age

and Uses. With 230 Illustrations. Medium Svo. 24s.
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FLEMING (Professor). Student's Manual of Moral Philosophy.
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FOED (EioHARn). Gatherings from Spain. Post Svo. 3s. 6d.
FOESTEE (Johh). The Early Life of Jonathan Swift. 1667-1711.
With Portrait. Svo. 15s.
FOESTTH (William). Hortensius; au Historical Essay on the
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 Novels aud Novelists of the 18th Century, in
Illustration of the Manners and Morals of the Age. PostSvo. lOs.Gd.
PEANCE (History OE). [See Jervis — Markham — Smith — Sin-
DENT.S' — TOCQUEVILLE.]
FEENCH IN ALGIERS; The Soldier of the Foreign Legion—
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Post Svo. 2s.
FEEEE (Sir Bartle). Indian Missions. Small Svo. is. 6d.
 Eastern Africa as a Field for Missionary Labour. With
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 Bengal Famine. How it will be Met and How to
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(M.). Old Deccan Days, or Hindoo Fairy Legends

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With 50 Illustrations. Post Svo. 7s. Gd.
GALTON (F.). Art of Travel ; or, Hints on the Shifts and Con
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GEOGEAPHY. [See Bchbort — Choker — Eioharusoh — Smith
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GEOGEAPHICAL SOCIETY'S JOUENAL. {Published Yearly.)
GEOEGE (Ernest). The Mosel ; a Series of Twenty Etchings, with
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 Loire and South of France ; a Series of Twenty
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GEEMANY (History oe). [See Marhham.]
GIBBON (Edward). History of the Decline and Fall of the
Eoman Empire. Edited by Milmaw, Guizot, and Dr. Wm. Smith.
Maps. S Vols. Svo. 60s.
 The Student's Edition; an Epitome of the above
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GIFFAED (Edward). Deeds of Naval Daring ; or. Anecdotes of
the British Navy. Fcap. Svo. Ss, 6(2.

12 LIST OF WORKS

GILL (Capt. Wm). The Eiver of Golden Sand. Narrative
of a Journey through China to Bnrmab, With a Preface by Col. H.
Yule, C.li. Maps and Illustrations. 2 Vols. Svo. .SOs.
 (Mrs.). Six Months in Ascension. An Unscientific Ac
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GLADSTONE (W. B.). Eome and the Newest Fashions in
KeliRton. Three Tracts. Svo. 7s. 6d.
 Gleanings of Past Years, 1843-78. 7 vols. Small
Svo. 2s. Gd. each. I. The Throne, the Prince Consort, the Cabinet and
Constitution. II. Personal and Literary. Ill, Historical and Specu
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GLEIG (G. E.). Campaigns of the British Army at Washington
and New Orleans. Post Svo. 2s.
 Story of the Battle of Waterloo. Post Svo. 3s. 6d.
 Narrative of Sale's Brigade in Affghanistan. Post Svo. 2s.
 Life of Lord Clive. Post Svo. 3s. 6d.
 Sir Thomas Monro. Post Svo. 3s. 6d.
GLYNNE (Sir Stephen E.). Notes on the Churches of Kent.
With Preface by W. H. Gladstone, M.P. Illustrations. Svo. 12».
GOLDSMITH'S (Oliver) Works. Edited with Notes by Peter
Cunningham. Vignettes. 4 Vols. Svo. SOs.
GOMM (Pi!i;iD-MARSHAL Sir Wm. M.), Commander-in-Chief in
India, Constable of the Tower, and Colonel of the t^oldKtream Guards
His Letters and Journals. 1799 to 1815, Edited by P, C. Carr Gom ii.
With Portrait. Svo.
GOEDON (Sir Alex.). Sketches of German Life, and Scenes
from the War of Liberation. Post Svo. Ss. Gd.
 (Lady Dorr) Amber- Witch : A Trial for Witch
craft. Post Svo. 2s.
French in Algiers. 1. The Soldier of the Foreign

Legion. 2. The Prisoners of Abd-el-Kadir. Post Svo. 2s.
GEAMMAES. [See Curtics ; Hall; Hutton; Kins Edward;
Leathes; Maetznee; Matthle; SMiTti,]
GEEECE (History op). [See Grote — Smith — Students'.]
OEOTE'S (George) WOEKS :—
History op Gkesoe. From the Earliest Times to the close
of the generation contemporary with the Death of Alexander the Great.
Library Edition. Portrait, Maps, and Plans. 10 Vols. Svo. 120s.
Cabinet Edition. Portrait and Plans. 12 Vols. Post Svo. 6s. each.
Plato, and other Companions of Socrates. 3 Vols. Svo. 45s.
Aristotle. With additional Essays. Svo. 18s.
Minor Works. Portrait. Sro. 14s.
Letters on Switzerland in 1847. 6s.
Personal Life. Portrait. Svo. 12s.
GEOTE (Mrs.), a Sketch. By Lady Eastlaee. Crown Svo. 6s.
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HOLLWAY (J. G.). A Month in Norway. Fcap. 8to. 2a.
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JENNINGS (Louis J.). Field Paths and Green Lanes in Surrey
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20 LIST OF WORKS

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PUBLISHKD BY MR. MURRAY. 21

MANUAL OF SCIENTIFIC ENQUIRY. For the Use of
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order of the Lords qf the Admiralty.)
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22 LIST OF WORKS

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 (Bishop, D.D.,) Life. With a Selection from his |
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PUBLISHED BY MR. MURKAY. 23
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24 LIST OF WORKS

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IOs. Gd.
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Woodcuts. Post Svo. 7i. ed.
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Bvo. 18s. cloth ; Sis. 6d. calf; SGt. morocco,
 ("The Convocation), with altered rubrics, show
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the Convocations of Canterbury aud York in 1879. PostSvo. 5s.
PRINCESS CHARLOTTE OP WALES. A Brief Memoir.
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PSALMS OF DAVID. With Notes Explanatory and Critical by
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PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 25

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ROYAL SOCIETY CATALOGUE OF SCIENTIFIC I'APERS.
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I SCHOMBERG (General). The Odyssey of Homer, rendered
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j SEEBOHM (Henry). Siberia in Europe ; a Naturalist's Visit to
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j SELBORNE (Lord). Notes on some Passages in the Liturgical
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I SHADOWS OF A SICK ROOM. Preface by Canon Liddon.
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SHAW (T. B.). Manual of English Literature. Post Svo. 7s. 6d.
^—^— Specimens of English Literature. Selected from the
Chief Writers. Post Svo. 7s. Gd,

26 LIST OF WORKS

SHAW (Robert). Visit to High Tartary, Yarkand, and Kashgar
(formerly Chinese Tartary), and Return Journey over the Karakorum
Pass. With Map and lllustratious. Svo. 16s.
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A Lady. Post Svo. Ss. Gd.
SIMMONS (Capt.). Constitution and Practice of Courts-Mar
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SMILES' (Samuel, LL.D.) WORKS :—
British Engineers ; from the Earliest Period to the death of
the Stephensono. With Illustrations. 5 Vols. Crown Svo. 7s. 6^. eacb.
Life op George Stephenson. Post Svo. iis. 6d.
Life OP A Scotch Naturalist (Thos. Edward). Illustrations.
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LiPE OP A Scotch Geologist and Botanist (Robert Dick).
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Huguenots in England and Ireland. Crown Svo. 7s. Gd.
Selp-Help. With Illustrations of Conduct and Persever
ance. Post Svo. Gs. Or in French, 5s.
Character. A Sequel to " Selp-Help." Post Svo. 6s.
Thrift. A Book of Domestic Counsel. Post Svo, 6s.
Duty. With Illustrations of Courage, Patience, and Endurance.
Post Svo. 6s.
Industrial Biography; or. Iron Workers and Tool Makers.
PostSvo. 6s.
Boy's Voyage Eound the World. Illustrations. Post Svo. 6s.
SMITH (Dr. George) Student's Manual of the Geography of India.
Post Svo.
Life of John Wilson, D.D. (Bombay), Missionary and

Philanthropist. Portrait. Post Svo.
• (Philip). History of the Ancient World, from the Creation

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SMITH'S (Dr. Wm.) DICTIONARIES :—
Dictionary op the Bible; its Antiquities, Biography,
Geography, and Natural History. Illustrations. 3 Vols. Svo. 105s.
Concise Bible Dictionary. With 300 Illustrations. Medium
Svo. 21s.
Smaller Bible Dictionary. With Illustrations. Post
8»o. 7s. Gd.
Christian Antiquities. Comprising the History, Insti-
tniions, and Antiquities of tbe Christian Church. With Illustrations.
2 Vols. Medium Svo. SI. ISs. Gd.
Christian Biography, Literature, Sects, and Doctrines ;
from the Times of the Apostles to tbe Age of Charlemagne. Medium Svu.
Vols. I. & II. Sis. Gd. each. (To be completed in 4 Vols.)
Greek and Roman Aniujuities. With 500 Illustrations.
Medium Svo. 28s.
Greek and Roman Biography and Mithology. With 600
lllustratiwiis. .1 Vols. Medium Svo. it. 4s.
Greek and Roman Geography. 2 Vols. With 500 Illustra
tions. Medium Bvo. 565.
Atlas op Ancient Geookapht — Biblical and Classical.
Folio. Gl. 6«.
Classical Dictionary op Mythology, Biography, and
GEOOitAPaY. 1 Vol. With 750 Woodcuts. Svo. IBs.

PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 27

Smith's ("Dk. Wm.) Dictionaries — continued.
Smaller Classical Dictionary. With 200 Woodcuts. Crown
Svo. 7s. 6d.
Smaller Greek and Roman Antiquities. With 200 Wood
cuts. Crown Svo. 7s. Gd.
Complete Latin-English Dictionary. With Tables of the
Roman Calendar, Measures, Weights, and Money. Svo. 21s.
Smaller Latin-English Dictionary. 12mo. 7s. Gd.
Copious and Critical English-Latin Dictionary. Svo. 21s.
Smaller English-Latin Dictionary. 12mo. 7s. Gd.
SMITH'S (Dr. Wm.) ENGLISH COURSE :—
School Manual op English Grammar, with Copious Exercises.
Post Bvo. 3s. Gd.
Primary English Grammar. 16mo. Is.
Manual op English Composition. With Copious Illustra
tions and Practical Exercises. 12mo. Ss. Gd,
Primary History op Britain. 12mo. 2s. Gd,
School Manual op Modern Geography, Physical and
Political. PostSvo. 5s.
A Smaller Manual of Modern Geography. 16mo. 2s. Gd.
SMITH'S (Dr. Wm.) FRENCH COURSE :—
French Principia. Part I. A First Course, containing a
Grammar, Delectus, Exercises, aud Vocabularies. 12mo. Ss. Gd.
, Appendix to French Principia. Part I. Containing ad
ditional Exercises, with Examination Papei's. 12mo. 2s. Gd.
French Principia. Part II. A Reading Book, containing
Fables, Stories, and Anecdotes, Natural History, and Scenes from the
History of France. With Grammatical Questions, Notes and copious
Etymological Dictionary. 12mo. 4s. Gd.
Frenoh Principia. Part III. Prose Composition, containing
a Systematic Course of Exercises on the Syntax, with the Principal
Rules of Syntax. 12mo. [In the Press.
Student's French Grammar. By C. Heron-Wall. With
Introduction by M. Littre. Post Bvo. 7s. Gd.
Smaller Grammar op the French Language. Abridged
from the above. 12mo. Ss. Gd.
SMITH'S (Dr. Wm.) GERMAN COURSE :—
German Principia. Part I. A First German Course, contain
ing a Grammar. Delectus, Exercise Book, and Vocabularies. 12mo. Ss. 6d.
German Principia. Part II. A Reading Book ; containing
Fables, Stories, and Anecdotes, Natural History, and Scenes from the
History of Germany. With Grammatical Questions, Notes, and Dic
tionary. 12mo. 3s. Gd.
Practical German Grammar. Post Svo. 3s. Gd.
SMITH'S (Dr. Wm.) ITALIAN COURSE :—
Italian Principia. An Italian Course, containing a Grammar,
Delectus, Exercise Book, with Vocabularies, and Materials for Italian
Conversation. By Signer Rioci, Professor ot Italian at Ihe City of
London College. 12mo. Ss. Gd.
Italian Principia. Part II. A First Italian Reading Book,
containing Fables, Anecdotes, Historv, and Passages from the best
Italian Authors, with Grammatical Questions, Notes, and a Copious
Etymological Dictiunary, By StgsOk Ricci. 12mo. 3s. 6d.

28 LIST OF WORKS

SMITH'S (Dr. Wm.) LATIN COURSE:—
The Young Beginner's First Latin Book : Containing the
Rudiments of Grammar, Easv Grammatical Quesiions and Exercises,
with Vocabularies. Being a Stepping- stone to Principia Latina, Part I.,
for Young Children. 12mo. 2".
The Young Beginner's Second Latin Book: Containing au
easy Latin Rending Book, with au Analysis of the Sentences, Notfs,
and a Ijictiorary. Being a Stepping-stone to Principia Latina, Part II.,
for Young Childieu. 12mo. 2s.
Principia Latina. Part I. First Latin Course, containing a
Grammar, Delectus,and Exercise Book, with Vocabularies. 12mo. 3s, «d.
*** In Ibis Edition the Casesof the Nouns, Adjectives, and Pron'mns
are arranged both as in the ordinary Grammars and a^ in the Public
School Primer, together with the corresponding Exercises.
Appendix to Principia Latina. Part I. ; being Additional
Exercises, with Examination Papers. 12mo. 2s. Gd.
Principia Latina. Part II. A Reading-book of Mythology,
Geography, Roman Antiquities, aud History. With Notes and Dic
tionary. 12mo. Ss. Gd.
Principia Latina. Part III. A Poetry Book. Hexameters
and Pentameters ; Eclog. Ovidianse ; Latin Prosody. 12mo. Ss. Gd.
Principia Latina. Part IV. Prose Composition. Rules of
Syntax with Examples, Explanations of Synonyms, and Exercises
on the Syntax. 12mo. Ss. Gd.
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